GIFT OF FREDERICK SHELDON PARKER HA,LLB. YALE 1873 TO THE YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 1916 THE ADVENTURES OP CAPTAIN JOHN PATTEESON, WITH NOTICES OF THE OFFICERS, &c. OF THE 50th, OK QUEEN'S OWN REGIMENT, FROM 1807 to 1821. LONDON: T. & W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET. 1837. T. C. NEWBY, PRINTER, BURY ST. EDMUND'S. ^Bv94-.207 TO THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. Madam, Encouraged by the very flattering manner in which your Majesty condescended to pre sent the 50th with the Colours which they now carry, as well as by a high sense of the honour conferred upon the Regiment when they were styled the " Queen's Own," I have presumed to dedicate to your Majesty this feeble record of their services during the late War. I am fully assured that in whatever quarter of the globe their colours may be displayed, it will be IV DEDICATION. to gain new honours in the field, and that, therefore, the Regiment will ever maintain that place in your Majesty's favour, which they have had the singular good fortune to acquire. I have the honour to be, Madam, Your Majesty's most obedient, and very faithful Subject, JOHN PATTERSON, Captain, Late of the 50th, or Queen's Own Regiment. Liverpool, 25th October, 1836. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. The Author's motives. His entrance into military life. Sketches of officers. Lieutenant Colonel Stewart. Lieutenant Colonel White. A harassing march. Changes of name in the 50th regiment. Arrival at Portsmouth. The embarkation. CHAPTER II. The expedition under sail. Rough weather in the Bay of Biscay. Christmas festivities prevented. The expedition is compelled to put back. The troops are relanded. The expe dition sails again. Its arrival at Gibraltar. Motley population of the place. The library. Excessive heat of the climate. Sluggishness of promotion. The expedition arrives at Cadiz. Dull cruize. Spanish attack on the French fleet. Visit to Cadiz. CHAPTER III. Campaign in Portugal. Arrival at Mondego Bay. A cool disembarkation. Bustle of encamping. Skirmish at Obidos. Action at Roliga. Death of Colonel Lake. March of the armv towards Vimeiro. Junot's contempt of the British. Battle of Vimeiro. The British troops resolve to gain abundant lau rels. Appearance of the country. Death of Colonel Coote. French attack repulsed. Spirit of a Highland piper. Rout of the French. Relics left behind by them. Death of Colo nel Taylor. Bivouac after the battle. Convention of Cintra. CHAPTER IV. March to Lisbon. Enthusiastic reception of the English army. Danger of night rambles. Encampment at Monte Santo. The army marches towards the frontier. Santarem A domes tic occupation. Bad quarters. Pleasant life of a soldier. Des cription of troops on their march. Bustling second Majors. March of the army resumed. Picturesque scenes on the Tagus. Kindness of Major Napier. Ravages committed by the French, Difficulty of communicating with the natives. Signs substituted for speech. Hospitality at Guarda. Inhospitality at Ciudad Rodrigo. Arrival at Salamanca. Friendly conduct of the inhabitants. CHAPTER V. March to Salamanca. Sir David Baird. Passage of the Esla. Merit of the camp females. Halt at Lugo. Short com mons. Suffering from want of sleep. Lieutenant McCarthy. Inclemency of the weather. Exertions of Sir David Baird. Distribution of shoes. Odd fits. Scarcity of provisions. Dough boys. Delights and disappointments of tea-drinking. Des truction of the money-chests. Wretched situation of the wo- VI CONTENTS. men and children. Tattered clothing. A dandy in spite of all obstacles. Bravery of the rear guard. Stupidity of the pea sants. Corunna in sight. CHAPTER VI. The troops at Corunna. Alarming explosion of a powder magazine. The brigade takes up a position near Corunna. Admirable conduct of Sir John Moore. Positions of the hostile armies. French clamours in the field. The outposts are at tacked. Bravery of Major Napier. Captain Clunes. New mode of dislodging French soldiers. Cookery spoiled. Major Napier is wounded and made prisoner. Death of Major Stan hope, and of other officers. A presentiment. Preparations to embark. Burial of Major Stanhope. Embarkation of the army. Anger of Soult. Loss of the Mary transport ship. De parture from Spain. CHAPTER VII. Quarters at Braborne Lees. Removal to Ashford. Cha racter of the 85th and 68th regiments. Quarters at Ashford. Hauteur of the Ashfordians. Quarters at Reading Street. Of ficers ordered to the Isle of Wight. Ludicrous journey thither. The troops embark for Walcheren. The troops disembark near Camp Vere. Desolate appearance of Flushing after its surrender. Sufferings of the inhabitants. The marsh fever breaks out. Mortality caused by it. Kindness of the Dutch. Visit to Middleburgh. Cleanness and neatness of the town. Apathy of the Dutch. Singular sleeping arrangement. The troops embark for England. They go into quarters. Por- chester castle. Albany barracks. Visit of the Author to Ire land. Quarters at East Bourne. CHAPTER VIII. The 1st battalion is ordered to Portugal. Lord Balgonie. Arrival at Lisbon. March to Abrantes. Bad quarters at Ab- rantes. Halt at Garvao. A family at Gafete. Bugs left as a legacy by the French. Situation of Portalegre. The grand Cathedral. Seclusion of the fair sex at Portalegre. Encamp ment on the heights of Torre de Moro. Camp comforts. Arrival at Borba. Beauty of the country round Borba. De lightful garden of Don Juan de Almeida. Style of building at Borba. Nunnery of St. Clara. The Capuchin convent. Jol lity of the Monks. The Convent Kitchen. Return to Porta legre. ' Terrible fatigue endured. Death of Ensign Hay. Wretched Winter Quarters. The crabbed Donna Elvira and her gloomy abode. CHAPTER IX. General Hill is despatched to surprise General Giraid's corps. CONTENTS. VU The heights of Alegrete. The division encounters a furious storm. Halt at Codiceira. Kindness of the hostess. Super ciliousness of the dragoon officers. Offensive and absurd supe-. riority assumed by a dragoon colonel. Folly of such conduct. Anecdote of a dandy officer. " Blanket merchants." The town of Albuquerque. Appearance of the women at Malpar- tida. Miseries of a bivouac on a rainy night. Arrival at Ar royo del Molino. The enemy is defeated. Arrival at Merida. Ruined state of the town. Bridge over the Guadiana. Des cription of Campo Mayor. Charnel house. Quarters at Cam-, po Mayor. CHAPTER X. Quarters at Alburquerque and Portalegre. House in which the Author was quartered. March to Don Benito. Family of Don Diego Ramirez. Style of living. The second division sent to the neighbourhood of Badajos. Tbe author visits Ba- dajos. Difficulty of approach. Description of the defences of the breaches. Enormities committed after the storming of the place. Bravery of Lieut. McCarthy. CHAPTER XI. Arrival at Truxillo. A force detached to reduce the Forts of Almaraz, Solitariness of the march. Arrangements for the attack. Hot fire from the enemy. Obstinate defence of Fort Napoleon. Death of Captain Robert Candler. The Fort is carried by storm. Bravery and fall of Clarimont, the governor. The tete du pont is carried by the Highlanders Fort Ragusa is abandoned by the garrison. Lieut. Thiele is blown up. Loss sustained by the two victors. The two Irish brothers, Larry and Pat Egan. Repast after the success. CHAPTER XII. The troops return to Truxillo. Description of Truxillo. The Pizarro palace. A paltry bull-fight. March to Fuentes del Maestro. Quarters at Don Benito. Kindness of the inhabit ants. Wedding at Don Benito. The bride and bridegroom described. Assemblies in the town. Dress of the ladies. De parture from Don Benito. March to Villa Mercia. Sad want of fuel. The^bullock-cart. Sierra de Santa Cruz. Banditti like shepherds. The troops march to Toledo. Warm recep tion given to them by the inhabitants. Situation of Toledo. Magnificence of the cathedral. Skeleton of St. Ursula. Beau tiful paintings. The largest bell in Europe. Persons and dress of the ladies of Toledo. Dress of the men. Departure from Toledo. Bivouac on the banks of the Tagus. Tedious road to Aranjuez. Arrival at Aranjuez. Ravages committed by the French. The queen's palace. Gardens and groves of the place. V111 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIII. Excursion to Madrid with kept constantly on the alert. Hard duty. As semblies and dances. Conduct of the Dons in the ball-room. Palace of the Duke of Ossuna- Name-day entertainments. The Carnival at Bejar. The Rabo. The Pillijo. The priests fond of gambling. Wool carding. Idleness of the men. Tertulias. General Foy attacks Bejar. He is defeated. Gra titude of the inhabitants of Bejar. CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER XVII. The regiment quits Bejar. March through the Valley of the Ebro. Halt at La Puebla. Orders given to prepare for action. Battle of Vittoria. Hungry condition of the British troops. Colonel Cadogan is killed. His character. Birds'-eye view of the battle-field. Ruse de guerre of the French. Pathetic recognition of a slain brother. Close of the battle. Flight of the French. Vexation of a Scotch economical officer. Night bivouac. CHAPTER XVIII. March to Pampeluna. A storm in the Pyrenees. Lieut. Masterman killed by lightning. Movements on the enemy's flanks. Beauty of the Vale of Bastan. Halt of the army near Elisonda. Marshal Soult resolves to regain his lost ground. Another storm in the Pyrenees. Advance of the French against the British. The British out-posts are driven in. De structive fire of the Riflemen. Several officers are killed. Cool courage of Lieut. Brown. Bravery of Colonel O'Callaghan. Daring conduct of the French Officers. Colonel Hill severely wounded. The British are forced to retire. The French Riflemen again. Lieut. Birchall killed. Successful charge on the French. Killed and wounded officers. The battle termi nates in faVour of the British. CHAPTER XIX. The Author is wounded in the battle of the Pyrenees. He is sent to the hospital station at Vittoria. Motley group of the wounded. The Author is quartered on a partisan of the French. Lieutenant Pattison. Captain Gough. Vittoria and its vicin-, ity. Melancholy fate of Captain Gore. Celebration of a great festival at Vittoria. Ludicrous antics of the townspeople. The Author sets out fori Bilboa. Apparently cannibal inn keeper at Tolosa. Arrival at Bilboa. The Author embarks for England, Singular entrance to the port where he embark ed. He lands at Plymouth. CHAPTER XX. Exploits of the SOth regiment subsequent to the Author's leaving Spain; Action at Aire, Death of Lieutenant D. McDonald. Good fortune of Lieutenant Colonel Harrison. Officers killed and wounded in the campaign of 1814. Esti mate of the relative merit of the soldiery of various countries. Of the English. Of the Scotch. Of the Irish. Of the Ger mans. Characters of Captain Philip Blassiere. CHAPTER XXI. The SOth regiment in quarters at Aughnacloy. It removes to Enniskillen. Recruiting quarters at Londonderry. Still hunt er 5 X CONTENTS. iug. Disgusting nature of that service. Stratagems of the illi cit distillers. Pursuit of outlaws and robbers. Magennis, a noted villain. He eludes all pursuit. Lieutenant Plunkett resolves to apprehend him. Notice of Lieutenant Plunkett's military career. He succeeds in seizing Magennis. The in former is murdered. CHAPTER XXII. The Author is ordered to join the regiment in the West Indies. He embarks at Cove, Uncomfortable state of the sleeping berths. Pleasant society on board. The pilot is charged with numerous farewells. Sea sickness. No compas sion felt for its victims. Amusing talents of Mr. Charles. Dis asters at dinner and tea in the Bay of Biscay. Approach to Ma deira. Preparations for warm weather. Attack on the turtle. Jeopardy of the assailants. Palma and Teneriffe in sight. At tempted suicide of a soldier. Beauty of the nights. Dancing and singing on board. Crossing the Line. Consequences of the excesses connected with this mummery. Land in sight. Ar rival at Jamaica. A black pilot. Prying visitors from the shore. CHAPTER XXIII. Visit to Port Royal. Tavern there. Description of Port Royal. The Author lands at Kingston. He proceeds to Up- Park Camp. Terrible mortality among the troops. Death of Colonel Hill. His character. Picturesque situation of Up- Park Camp. Its extreme insalubrity. Duties in camp. Black female pedlars. Second breakfast. Cricket. Evening Pa rade. Dinner. Insufferable heat of mid-day. Injurious effect of the night dews. Excessive thirst and excessive drinking. A singular idea of a fine country. Danger of being exposed to the heavy rains. Death of Lieut. Richardson. Shipwreck and death of Mrs. Ross. Description of Kingston. Extorti onate conduct of the Hotel-keepers. Character of the Kingston ladies. Their extreme love of dancing. Drowsiness and apa thy of the males. Unhealthiness of Spanish Town. CHAPTER XXIV. The author embarks for England. Course of the vessel. Sharks not palatable food. A visit from a Buenos Ayres priva teer. Rough weather. A northwester hurricane. Its terrific appearance and effects. Misery below deck Meritorious conduct of Mr. Grant, the Mate. He is swept away by a. bil low. The hurricane ceases. Vigorous attack on the breakfast. Passengers in the vessel. One of them is sickly ; another is crack-brained. Misfortunes encountered by the latter. The Author lands at Deal. ERRATA. Page 6, 8 lines from bottom, for " queses," read "cues." 12, 5 for "groops," read " groupes," 40,2 for "60th," read "50th." 46, l21inesfrom bottom, for "among wood," read "among the wood." 48, In the list of killed, &c. at Vimerio, instead of the passage printed, read " Capt. A. G. Coote, killed; Major Charles Hill, and Lieutenant J. N. Wilson, wounded. " 60, 4 lines from bottom, for " blackening,'' read " blanch ing." 135, 9 lines from bottom, for " throgout," read " through out." 149, 4 for " Cajo," read " Caio." 192, 5 lines from top, for " wood," read "mood." 199, 6 for ". Chandler," read " Candler." 203, 4 for " Thril," read " Thiele." 221, 6 lines from bottom, for " mach," read " march.'' 265, 2 lines from top, for " firm," read " fine." 314, 2 lines from bottom, for " 70th," read " 71st.", 344, 11 for " settimo," read " septimo." 352, 5 lines from top, for " Lieutenant General Bentley, Lieutenant General Power," read " Lieutenant George Bartley, Lieutenant Power." 352, at the top, for " Lieutenant and Adjutant D. Mc Donald," read " Lieutenant Duncan Mc Donald." 390, 2 lines from bottom, for " Wailey,'' read " Warley." 389, 3 lines from top, instead of " to behold with what vanity as well as delight not a few," should read, " to behold with what delight as well as vanity not a few." ADVENTURES. CHAPTER I. It seems to be a general custom for the retired soldier, after he has sheathed his now harmless blade, to wield the pen, and, looking back upon his past campaigns, deliver " a round unvar- ¦ nished tale." I have no wish to be singular, by making myself an exception to the rule; on the contrary, I am rather desirous of appearing on the list of those who fight their battles o'er again. I -shall, therefore, as a young recruit, take part among the troop of scribblers; and, without any unnecessary preamble, assign one reason for my embarking in the cause. 2 ADVENTURES OF Among the various mihtary narratives, writ ten to edify the world, nothing has yet trans- — pired regarding the old Fiftieth; not a single champion has been bold enough to step for ward, and say a word or two in favour of that corps. Now, as the battahon, whenever the pebbles were flying about, was never in the back ground, there can be no excuse for silence upon the subject. Moreover, the high esteem in which I hold the companions of many a hard fought day prompts me to offer this feeble record of their services, so far as I have wit nessed them; and, at the same time, to en deavour to rescue from oblivion, the memory of those brave men, who fell for their country. It perhaps may be asserted, that the interest in all such matters is now gone by, and that it is a hackneyed, dry, and threadbare theme; but I must beg leave to differ from those sapi ent persons, who perchance may entertain this notion. The scenes in this eventful war were ever changing; each performer ran a career as varied as the clime or country through which he CAPTAIN PATTEP.SON. 3 travelled; in fact, so diversified were the cir cumstances, that if every individual from the drum-boy upwards, were to write his own ad ventures, I am well convinced, the story would not be wholly devoid of interest, because it would at least have novelty to recommend it. As for the movements and operations of the army, in the Spanish peninsula, they have heen already well described by Colonel Napier; and therefore I consider that any account, even from the most talented pen, would be super fluous, after the details which have been so clearly given by that able historian. The hurried nature of our service rendered it impossible for us to see beyond the surfacei We were scarcely ever allowed to remain more than a day or two, in any town worthy parti cular notice. The woods and wilds were gene rally the places of our habitation. From this cause, description will necessarily be meagre, and little more than an unfinished sketch, or outline, can be looked for. I shall confine my self to things that fell within the range of per sonal observation, many of which were noted b 2 4 adventures OF down in a journal at the time; and in doing so I may hope to introduce some gleanings, not wholly worthless, that may have escaped the cognizance of others more experienced, and who even were long before me in the field. If the general reader should deem my preliminary matter to be of minor importance, I must beg to remind him, that there are many veterans to whom it will appear in a different light; and I must solicit his patience till I can lead him into more stirring scenes. Having, in August 1807, received a commis- # sion in his Majesty's 50th, or West Kent regi ment, I joined the 2nd battalion of that corps, commanded by Lieutenant-Colonel Charles Stewart, at Deal barracks, on the 17th of the following month. It was composed chiefly of ^ young recruits and of volunteers from the English Militia, and was undergoing a strict course of drill; the whole of the officers and men being diligently employed in practising the manual and platoon exercise, marching, coun termarching, and the balance step. Lieutenant-Colonel Stewart, who had lately CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 5 been promoted from the 53rd, in which he had served for some years, was an old and very dis* tinguished officer, having encountered the vi cissitudes of war, in almost every quarter into which the British arms were carried. In the East Indies, while present at the siege of Se- ringapatam, as Captain of the 7 1st Highlanders, he bore a conspicuous part, when leading his company to the assault of that fortress, in which he was severely wounded. He was a hardy Northern, skilled in martial science, and was as eminent in those qualities which are re quired for training up the young battalion as for those which are displayed in manoeuvring the more experienced in the field. His hoary locks, well blanched by many a hard campaign, indicated the length of service to which his; best days had been devoted, while his pene-r trating expression of countenance indicated the active mind, and the abilities, by which he was so highly distinguished. In the adjoining barrack lay the 29th or Worcestershire regiment, commanded by Lieu tenant-Colonel Daniel White. It had lately 6 ADVENTURES OF returned from Halifax, where it had been sta tioned for many years. — Being in preparation for active employment, it was now passing through the usual ordeal of drill and ball prac tise; and consequently the interminable sounds of drums, and bugles, the monotonous din of the drill Serjeants' " as you were," ac companied by the clamour from the Adjutants' stentorian lungs, were continually wringing in our ears. The 29th was a fine regiment, although it had been trained up after the manner of the old school. Their Lieutenant-Colonel, a gallant veteran,* shewing the example,made his ofiicers dress with cocked hat square to the front, long queses, and wide skirted coats, fastened or loop ed back with hook and eye^-They had rather too much of the antique about them, and were considerably improved by getting into a more modern style of costume. We were enlivened by their excellent band ; * This fine old officer was killed at the battle of Talavera, while nobly leading his regiment to the charge. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. / elated with the prospect of active service, and looking forward to new adventures as well as to encountering the enemy in the field. But it was not alone by numerical strength or physical power that the 50th was likely to be formidable. There was likewise an w esprit de corps," a high tone of feehng among them, pro ducing a moral force not easily to be overcome. When, after a long and harassing route, on a dismal wintay day in October, the men marched up the main street in Hythe covered with mud, drenched with rain, their clothing and accoutre ments tarnished, their blackfacings in goodkeep- ing with their dingy costume, they certairdy look- edmorelike a band of demons than hum an beings, and realized, on this occasion at least, their an cient pet appelation of the f dirty half hundred.' CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 3 The 50th has undergone several changes. ef name, both serious and ludicrous. At the period of which we are writing, it was the West Kent regiment. When, after its return from the West Indies, in 1827, it received a new set of colours, at Portsmouth, from the haiids of Queen Adelaide, (then Duchess of Clarence) it became the ' Duke of Clarence's.' On our pre sent gracious sovereign's accession to the throne it was made> a royal regiment, and obtained the honor of being styled the i Queen's Own,' which is its present name. Among military men, it has been known by various jocose titles ; at one time it was called the ' Mediterranean Greys/ from its having been so long on that station that thelocksof men and officers had assumed agrisly hue-. It was, at another period, named the f Blind Half Hundred,' from being so much afflicted with the ophthalmia in Egypt. The 'Old Black Cuffs,' and the 'Dirty Half Hundred,' from the dingy colour of the facings, are still favourite appellations. — But let us resume our march. We arrived at Portsmouth on the 26th of November, 1:807> having had a toilsome march b 5 10 ADVENTURES OF often days ; the roads were bad, and the weather was unusually cold and wet ; so that we did not make a very respectable or beautiful figure, upon our entrance into that garrison, any more than we did at our exhibition in Hythe. The object of our coming to Portsmouth, was to form a portion of an expedition which was to assemble at this place of rendezvous^ prepara tory to its embarkation for a destined quarter, to what part of the world it was to direct its course was, however, as yet unknown to the troops who were to be engaged in it. The force to be employed on this secret en- terprize consisted of the following regiments, viz. : — The 29th regiment, Lieut.-Col. White. The 32nd regiment, Lieut.-Col. S. V. Hinde. The 50th regiment, Lieut.-Col. G.T.Walker. The 82nd regiment, Lieut.-Col. Sir G.Smith. The Armament was to be under the orders of Major General Sir Brent Spencer, an officer of well-tried experience, and merit, who had signalized himself on many occasions, and par ticularly when leading forward the old 40th on CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 11 the sands of Egypt. With such a gallant chief at our head, followed by such troops, we could not fail to be inspired with confidence, that to whatever quarter the expedition might be bound, success would inevitably attend upon our arms. Previous to our going on board, a limited number, of women were allowed to accompany the regiment, and lots were cast in order to decide this very delicate affair. — It was most •affecting to witness the distress of those whose fate it was to remain behind, and the despair that was pictured on the countenances of the unhappy creatures was truly pitiable.' — Many of them young, helpless, and unprotected, were forced to wander back to their own country, pennyless, and broken-hearted, and to all in tents and purposes left in a widow_ed state, for ' few of them were fated ever to behold their husbands again. The moment of separation was a painful one, and was calculated not only to touch the hearts of the most indifferent observer, but to affect most deeply those who, while they felt for the Il2 ADVENTURES OF mourners, had no power to mitigate their sorrows. The embarkation took place on the 17th of December. The troops were assembled on that .spot, well known by the name of Portsmouth point, a place which, albeit it possesses but a scanty portion of the picturesque, even now furnished with a goodly display of animated nature, and covered with groups of motley garb and colour, consisting of all the rank, beauty and fashion of that very polite and ele gant quarter of the town, drawn hither from their saloons, to witness the departure of the soldiers.. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 13 CHAPTER. II. The whole of the troops being on board, the fleet got under way, from Spithead, with a fine breeze from the E. N. E. and stood down channel for the westward. The transports fitted up for our reception, were small vessels of such old and crazy ma terials, that in this wintry season, we did not expect they would long remain sea-worthy. However as we were now commencing the upr hill work of a, soldier's life, our minds were fully made up to rough it.in every sense of the word.; and, although appearances were not flattering, our feelings were in unison with the motto on our breast-plate, (quo fata vocant) and we were buoyed up with the hopes of a prosperous, issue to our undertaking. Captain Bentley's company, (to which I be longed) was stowed in the brig Alexander ; she 14 ADVENTURES OF was an old tub, battered and knocked about by many a gale, and in her look and trim was by no means inviting. The skipper, Captain Young, a tall, hard- featured seaman, with a countenance well bronzed by exposure to the N. W. wind, was positive and irritable to an extreme degree, and if a landsman presumed to offer any remark, as to the affairs of his beautiful ship, Old Young, was quite indignant. We were fortunate in getting Bentley for a shipmate, as he was a kind good tempered man, and a lively companion. The pay-master, John Montgomery, with his wife and family, were also of our party ; so that on the whole, we in the Alexander were as well off with respect to society, as any of our neigh bours. Montgomery was a plain, good-natured Irishman, fond of social life, and being a man of experience, having spent most of his days in the regiment, he was an acquisition, which ultimately proved valuable to us. His eldest daughter, an animated sensible girl, contributed with two younger sisters to our happiness ^and, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 15 making due allowance for the state of things around, we had as large a share of enjoyment, (if such a word can be used with reference to being in a ship), as under the circumstances could reasonably be expected. The fleet was soon clear of the channel, bear ing on a S. W. course, under a heavy press of canvass, before a fair wind. — The appearance of the clouds and atmosphere was unfavour able, and the huge unwieldy porpoises, rolling about their shapeless forms, together with the screaming of mother Gary's chickens, were to the experienced mariners certain indications of a coming storm. Their evil prognostics were soon realized ; for, on approaching the Bay of Biscay, we were driven and tossed about, by one of the most violent tempests that had occur- ed for many years. — It began on Christmas day. Resolving to enjoy, though in a humble way, the good cheer of the festive season, we had previously provided for the occasion a fat goose, andother savoury things ; but, alas, our promised joys proved deceptive ; they all vanished, and were replaced by sorrow and disappointment, 16 ADVENTURES OF for the relentless, gale denied all possibility of — comfort ! Poor blackey, in his caboose, was rendered inconsolable* he being unable to dress the aforesaid goose> as the spray, beating in, had quenched the last spark of his culinary fire. The ship reeled and pitched with such tremendous force, that it was not without some trouble we could discuss the merits of a cold bone of junk with hard biscuit, while we lay sprawling and floundering on the WTetched cabin floor. The deadlights having been pre viously fixed to. the stern windows, there re mained but the flickering and moody glare of a yellow dirty looking luminary, y'clept a lamp, which, as it swung from the sky-light grating, afforded a glimmering just sufficient to make darkness visible, and disclose to our visual organs a scene emphatically dismal. Such was the commencement of our calami tous voyage, and in this way did we get on, from bad to worse, each day more woeful than the preceding ; until at length, after beat ing about this Bay of Misery, against a strong head sea, and with a hurricane in our teeth, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 17 it was thought advisable to fight no longer with the elements ; the signal was therefore made from the Commodore, to tack about, and make sail for England. — Obeying this welcome signal with alacrity, we found ourselves going homewards before the wind, at the rate of from ten to twelve knots an hour, after having been exposed to its dreadful violence for the space of ten days, in the most terrific sea that any unfortunate bark had ever ploughed. At this time, as we looked across the foam ing waste, the view was wild and dreary; amidst the atmosphere of darkness, clouds and mist, the scattered vessels might be occasion ally discerned, as the fog dispersed, tossed about at the merciless fury of the waves; some dismantled, others on their beam ends. The wrecks of those that unhappily had foundered were floating here and there, while the loud and fearful moaning of the tempest increased the horrors of the scene. After five days of rapid sailing, the Alexan der, with a few more ships, arrived at Plymouth. The remainder of the convoy took refuge in 18 ADVENTURES OF various harbours, along the coast, and by the 5 th of January they were all safe at anchor, in the several ports which with so much difficulty they made. On the 15th we sailed for Fal mouth, when permission was granted- for the men to land in detachments, in order that they might stretch their limbs after their long con finement*. The weather having at length become set tled, the fleet again got under way, and, with a fine steady breeze from the East, soon cleared the Lizard. Steering towards our friend old Biscay, of blustrous memory, we speedily lost * Before our departure from Falmouth our society was un fortunately deprived of Captain Bentley, who remained to- effect an exchange. He was, for a considerable time, staff Captain at Chatham, and was promoted to the rank of Major, when he was appointed to the 16th foot, stationed at Ceylon. He died soon after this, justly lamented by all his friends and comrades. Bentley was succeeded, in the Alexander, by Captain, Eichard Stowe, a weather-beaten veteran, upon whose visage time, and hard service, had imprinted numerous deep and indelible marks. Stowe exchanged into a West India regiment, before we landed in Portugal, and was taken off by fever in one of the Leeward Islands. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 19 sight of the shores of Britain; but in a state of circumstances far more auspicious than those under which we first commenced our unfortu nate career. After a prosperous and very delightful voy age of seventeen days, during which we had favourable and pleasant weather, we came to anchor in the Bay of Gibraltar, when the troops were disembarked, and occupied the barracks at Europa point, on the southern extremity of the fortress. The transport containing the flank compa nies and head quarters, under Colonel Walker, had missed the convoy in the heavy gales of January, and bore away to the Southward. After being driven about the Mediterranean for some weeks, it was compelled to put into the harbour of Messina, where it continued till intelligence was received of our arrival at the rock. In a httle time it joined us, and the regiment was again re-assembled, and prepared for any service. During our brief sojourn in this extraordi nary place, which is too well known to need 20 ADVENTURES OF any description here, we found many things to interest us after the monotony of a voyage. The great number of strange and curious look ing personages, who figured in the streets, with their varied, many-coloured', and grotesque costumes, made the town appear as if there was a carnival or masquerade going forward, and produced a very gay and ludicrous effect. There is, however, a heavy drawback to. the mirth which this motley population is calculated to excite. The close suffocating atmosphere, the filthy state of the houses, and other local circumstances, promote the reception of those unwelcome visitors, plague, cholera, and yellow fever; which are still further encouraged, if not engendered, by the uncleanly habits, and abo minable customs of the Turks, Jews, and other outlandish residents of the town. The Library, containing a numerous and splendid collection of books in every language;, forms a dehghtful source of amusement, as well as profitable employment, to the officers, riyii and military, who may be stationed in the gar- rison.-rO.ver the library is a magnificent ball- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 21 room in which at all times there is a pretty good display of the young and fair* rock- scorpions, together with passing visitors, and warlike heros, who have assembled to dispel that ennui which might otherwise pervade their leisure hours. The weather was excessively hot, the oppres sive closeness of the air, being increased by the reflection, from the rock, of a burning sun. Were this not tempered by the occasional breeze, wafted from the Mediterranean, the climate would be insufferable : tormented by flies, mosquitos, and other insects, we had but little rest day or night, and but for the constant occupation of the mind, combined with the excitement caused by the variety and novelty of all about us, onr situation would have been any thing but agreeable in such a place, which it would almost require the nature of a sala mander to endure ; a nature not to be obtained except by the seasoning of a very long resi dence. * A term applied to those who are born on the Rock. 22 ADVENTURES OF Mounting guard one day at the New mole head, I was a witness of an extraordinary in terview which chanced to occur. Lieut. Fred erick Baron Meard, an old subaltern of the 50th, was upon the same duty, and, being the senior, he turned out the guard to receive the visiting field officer, then Major Wood, of the 32nd regiment ; to his great surprise the Major re cognized Meard as the same individual who, some years before, when in the West Indies, was the field officer of the day, to whom the main guard presented arms, when he, (Major Wood), commanded it, being at that period a Lieutenant in the 32nd. To what corps 'Meard then belonged, I do not recollect, but his having sold out and again commenced his military career, will account for what may seem one of those strange vicissi tudes to which men of the military profession are liable. — Meard exchanged, while we lay at Gibraltar, into a regiment in the West Indies, and soon after fell a victim to the effects of that baneful climate. Major Cholmondly Ovefend also returned from the Regiment at CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 23 this place, having sold his commission, and returned to England. Overend was a York- shireman, advanced in years, and decidedly of the old school. Erect in stature, and well made, with a good mihtary expression, he re tained still enough to show that in his younger days, he must have been a handsome man. Whether he is now in the land of the living I am unable to say. The 50th, previous to the arrival of Colonel Walker, was under the com mand of Major Charles Hill; of whom, as he was our leader throughout a good part of the Peninsular War, I shall hereafter have some thing more to relate. On the 13th of May, 1808, the Expedition, under the orders of Lieutenant General Sir Brent Spencer, sailed from the Bay of Gibral tar, and on the following day arrived off Cadiz, where the fleet remained till the 13th of June, from which period to the 27th of the same month, it was cruizing about between Cape St. Vincent, Ayamonte and Trafalgar point; this being the second time of its visitmg the coast in that quarter. Being appointed to do duty 24 ADVENTURES OF in Captain Armstrong's Company, I embarked' with that officer, together with Ensign John Atkinson, and Quarter-Master Benjamin Bax ter, on board of a fine well-built transport, called the Rosina. Our voyage was passed in a dull and listless manner, solely occupied as we were, for above six weeks, in sailing along the coasts of Algarve and Andalusia, and re maining in total ignorance of our final desti nation. — We were becalmed for days under a broiling sun, occasionally running short of water, and fresh provisions; and our state of un certainty, as well as hope deferred, was enough to exhaust the patience of the most enduring mortals. Whenever the wind was favourable, or that we stood in close to the land, the natives approached the ship, with boats well laden with various articles, in the welcome *¦ shape of fruit, vegetables, or fish, which they gladly disposed of at a moderate rate. These ? might well be called luxuries, and formed an excellent accompaniment to our salt junk, upon which we had been stall-fed so abundantly that, for some time past, we had seldom any thing CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 25 else for either breakfast, dinner, or supper. Had it not been for Captain Armstrong, I know not how we should have contrived to support a mode of existence, or rather of vege tation, which was so thoroughly wearisome. Fortunately he was an amusing companion, full of drollery and comic humour, and had, more over, a fund of good songs, so that he kept us all alive. Hostilities between England and Spain hav ing ceased, in consequence of the invasion of the latter country by the French, preparations were made, in the most vigorous manner, to co-operate with the Spanish and Portuguese forces; and the British troops were accordingly held in readiness to disembark on any part of the Peninsula to which they might be ordered. General Spencer's Expedition, which was now destined for immediate active service, composed a portion of that army which first obtained a footing on the shores of Portugal, and which, eventually, under the illustrious Wellington, performed such glorious achievements in the field, driving the French Eagles before them, 26 ADVENTURES OF and bearing the victorious colours of Britain from Lisbon to Toulouse. Soon after we arrived off the road of Cadiz, the French fleet, lying at anchor under the town, was summoned to surrender to the Spanish flag. This request not being complied with, the natural result was a general attack, made by the artillery on their shipping. The enemy was resolved to maintain his quarters as long as he could fire a shot, and therefore returned the salute, with all the heavy metal he could bring to bear against the works, sending in a broadside, with such tremendous effect as to rattle the tiled roofs about their ears and other wise deface the beauty of their buildings. Lying so far in the offing, we could see no thing but a thick cloud of smoke, rising above the calm surface, of the bay;* the exhibition going forward behind this curtain, was com pletely hidden from our view. The cannonade, * While we lay off the bay, the governor, Solano, being suspected of adherence to the enemy, was barbarously mur dered. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 27 however, was audible enough, and its music sadly tantalized our seamen in the fleet, who burned to lend a hand in an affair which was so much to their taste. They had, nevertheless, quite sufficient to employ their time, having to keep a pretty sharp look out, in order to pre vent the smallest craft pf the adverse squadron from slipping through their fingers. Throughout the whole of the day, a heavy fire was kept up against the French vessels by the garrison, whose long continued volleys echo ed from the harbour. Compelled, at length, to strike their colours, the French surrendered to the Dons, who, sheltered by their solid mason ry, had endured but trifling loss, and were en titled to no particular praise for any bravery they might have manifested behind their bulwarks. On the 4th of July we got under way, and, sailing well up the harbour, came to anchor a, short distance from the Mole head, the ships of war being moored across the entrance. The men were not permitted to land; but the Officers had leave to pass a few hours on shore c 2 28 ADVENTURES OF every day, and within that limited space we were busy enough making a tour of inspection, prying into every street, lane, and alley, not in search of the picturesque, but of any thing else, that might he in our way, deserving notice from inquisitive travellers. Cadiz is dehghtfully situated upon an islet, separated from the main land by a narrow strait. It appeared a paradise to us, after the long imprisonment we had suffered, from the time we left Gibraltar. The citizens were highly gratified on seeing the Enghsh Officers, and used every means in their power to evince their friendship and good will, inviting us to their houses and entertaining us with Hberahty and kindness. In the course of a few days the transports containing the 50th were anchored near Port St. Mary's, a considerable town on the opposite shore. Here the regiment was landed, and, after remaining for one week, was again embarked. The fleet sailed on the 22nd, and we steered once more towards Cape St. Vincent. Portugal was our destination. Before we left St. Mary's, I was removed to CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 29 Captain Coote's company, with which I went on board the Britannia, Captain Clarke. The other officers of the cabin were Major Hill, Lieut. Birchall, Ensign Atkinson, and Assistant Surgeon Coulson, who formed a pleasant, con vivial party, among whom good fellowship and social harmony prevailed. 30 ADVENTURES OF CHAPTER III. Upon our arrival off Mondego Bay, in Portu gal, we received orders to disembark at the little village of Figueras, at the mouth of the Mondego river, across which there was a dangerous surf and ground swell. The pass ing of this obstacle we found to be a most hazardous and difficult service. As soon as the Portuguese boats, crowded with our sol diers, reached the foaming and rapid surge, a desperate pull was made by all the rowers ; when, dashing over its surface, we were launch ed upon the strand in a most unceremonious manner, being pitched, or rather tumbled out, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 31 more like a cargo of fish than a boat load of gentlemen warriors. Bundled out upon the sandy beach, we lay floundering, and drenched by the waves, like so many half drowned wretches, who had lately escaped from Neptune's watery domains ; and were almost doubtful of our existence, as we scrambled high, though not dry, upon the shore. — After this delightful immersion, and the cold reception we had ex perienced, on our first appearance upon the Lusitanian stage, we moved forward, with habiliments of war effectually saturated by the briny element, and soon joined our companions ofthebath, already on the road. Most of us had been provided with small knapsacks, holding our kit, together with the haversack, and can teen, slung across the shoulder ; of which the two former, (including their contents,) were rendered totally unfit for service, nothing being left for consolation but the brandy, or rum ; cordials which were well calculated, and by no means unnecessary, to elevate our drooping spirits. A? soon as we recovered from the effects of 32 ADVENTURES OF our chilling ablutions, we proceeded to the ground of encampment, and, although we were in a sorry condition withregard to the outward man, the inward was sustained by a hearty determina tion to bear up under privations alike inevitable to all. The weather was beautifully fine; the roads, which were in general good, led through a picturesque and richly cultivated country. At the termination of each day's march, the troops were halted in the neighbourhood of wood and water. The ahgnement being taken up, and the arms piled in column, fires were immediately put in requisition for cooking, and in a moment the clash and clang of bill-hooks and pioneers' entrenching tools resounded on every side ; while the deep woods rang again with the clamour of ten thousand tongues, and the harsh discordant sound of bugles, drums, and other noisy accompaniments, producing, on the whole, a scene not unworthy of Hogarth him self, who might have been aroused from the dead, to execute the task of depicting it, had he been entombed within the precincts of our turbulent camp. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 33 Before daylight the army was up, and stand ing to their arms, formed in open column, the reveille at the same time was sounded from right to left, and echoed through the closely planted hills, giving to our enemies in the front loud intimation of our near approach, and prov ing that his newly arrived visitors were at all events on the alert, and came early into the field. As we moved onward, towards Lisbon, a skirmish took place at Obidos, in which fell Lieutenant Bunbury, of the 95th Rifle corps; the first British officer who was slain in the Peninsula. This was the prelude to a more important action. H eaded by General Laborde, the French took post on the heights, of Rorica, where they resisted with wonderful obstinacy the combined attack of our troops. Nothing could surpass the gallantry displayed by both parties, during the assault of this strong posi tion; and nothing but the courage of British soldiers could have forced the enemy to with draw. On our part, the noble conduct of the old 9th and 29th regiments was conspi- c 5 34 ADVENTURES OF cuous, those corps having, at the point of the •bayonet, carried the whole range of hills. It was a lovely morning, the sun rose with a splendour never witnessed in our cold latitudes, and every object seemed to smile upon our operations, at the commencement of that struggle upon which depended the slavery or freedom of a great nation. The 50th, 45th, and 91st were brigaded to gether at this time, under General I. Catlin Crawford*, and these were drawn up on the road leading to Roleia. From the arrange ments made, we fully expected to have had the post of honor, or rather the honor of driving the adversary from his stronghold, and waited anxiously for the order to advance; but pre sently, while we stood gazing about us, up comes the 29th regiment, which by their bold and decided pace gave evidence plain enough * General Catlin Crawford was a tall, fine-looking man, with a fair complexion and sandy hair. He subsequently died of fever in Portugal. General Robert Crawford, his relation, a gallant officer, was killed at Ciudad Eodrigo. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 35 that they were selected for the service, and, cheering them with our wishes for their suc cess, we could not avoid admiring the style in which they moved along. The arrangements made by the French General Laborde for the defence of his position were admirably planned, and his troops behaved with great valour, contesting every inch of ground. Concealed within the close brush wood, on each side of the narrow defile, they took steady and deliberate aim, and their fire was attended with murderous effects. The 29th, however, commanded by the gallant Colonel Lake*, pressed onward, to the gorge of the pass. While they were struggling up the rugged and precipitous ascent they were exposed to a shower of balls, and, in a few minutes, the grenadier company was nearly * Lieutenant Colonel the Honorable George Augustus Frederick Lake was the son of General Lord Lake, and rose to high military r.nk at an early age. He was a man of noble aspect and commanding appearance. Mounted on a milk-white charger, he led his followers on with heroic bearing. 36 ADVENTURES OF annihilated, the chivalrous Lake falling mor tally wounded at their head, while in the act of bravely encouraging his men. The regiment still pushed forward, although with the loss of many other officers, and, form ing on the summit of the eminence, was sup ported by the 9th; these corps, followed by others in reserve, gained possession of the heights. Beaten at all points, the enemy moved off in good order; directing his march along the sea coast by the roads to Vimeiro and Torres Vedras. The 9th suffered considerably in this affair, and their commander, Colonel Cameron, was killed at the first onset. The alhes marched rapidly in the footsteps of the flying enemy, keeping him well in sight until they reached the hills surround ing the village of Vimeiro, where they were formed, in order to protect the debarkation of a reinforcement of men from England ; which was then off the coast. These troops landed at the small town of Maceira, and were just in time for the ensuing combat, having oppor- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 37 tunely joined before our principal adversary thought proper to shew his face. Junot, who was general in chief, held the British in much contempt, and endeavoured to impress upon the minds of his followers, that their antagonists were a set of raw campaigners, wholly devoid, of mihtary skill. From the tes timony of some deserters, who came into our lines, - we learned, that the Marshal intended, before many days were over, to give us a dust- r ing, and to brush the pipeclay out of our jackets. This, cavalier determination of the ? Marshal afforded no small amusement to our soldiers, who promised themselves some good sport, whenever the gasconading Frenchman might be pleased to make true his words : and, not to be behindhand with him in kindness, they resolved gratefully to return the compli ment, by trimming the whiskers of his gallant veterans, and powdering their mustachios, in so artist-like a manner, that the aid of a friseur should no longer be required. In this posture things remained until the 21st of August, when both parties assembled 38 t ADVENTURES OF to put in their claim to a portion of the honor and glory which were to be won on that day. By which side the largest share of those im perishable commodities was obtained, History has already recorded. At a very early hour, on the morning of the day already mentioned, some random shots were heard in front of our piquets, which gave us intimation that the French were on the move, and we doubted not that they were about to assist our toilet in the way of brush ing; in plain English, it was clear enough that they had it in contemplation to try our metal, and ascertain whether it was of a base kind or not. Under these circumstances it was quite natural that we should anticipate their wishes ; and measures were accordingly taken to give them a warm reception. Very few of us were ever in action before, and as for the smett of gunpowder, all our young hands were perfect griffins in that way. It being our initiatory battle, our minds were under no small degree of excitement. The idea of engaging in deadly strife with the sol- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 39 diefs of Austerlitz and Jena inspired the am bitious hero, escaped from the apron-string, with feelings of emulation well calculated to keep alive the flame of military ardour; and each, screwing his courage to the sticking place, resolved that he would be famed for deeds of arms, and that his name should go down to pos terity under an accumulated weight of laurels. The 43rd, (2nd battalion,) 50th, and 95th Rifle Corps were formed into a light brigade, under the command of General (now Sir Henry) Fane, and certainly I never beheld so fine a body of men; the 43rd, in particular, were a most shewy set of fellows, a healthy collection of John Bulls, hot from their own country, and equally hot for a slap at the Frenchmen. The 95th, (now the Rifle Brigade,) was commanded by Major Robert Travers*, an officer whose * Major Robert Travers was promoted to be Lieutenant Colonel of the 10th Foot, and subsequently became Major General by brevet. He settled at his native place, Cork, where he died, in consequence of a fall from his horse, in 1835. He left a widow and very numerous family. One of his daugh ters, previously not unknown as a writer, has very recently dis tinguished herself by the "The Mascarenhas ; a Legend of the Portuguese in India;" an animated Romance, which dis plays great knowledge of character and power of description. 40 ADVENTURES OF bravery, on all occasions, made him worthy of a place in that crack regiment. We were posted on an eminence, to the right of the village; the 50th, being the junior corps, was stationed in the centre, and consequently on the highest part of the hill. From hence, as the day was fine, and the atmosphere quite clear, we had a distinct view of all that was going forward in the front, also a tolerably good prospect in every other direction. The country was overspread with vineyards, and, the vintage season being at hand, nothing could be more beautiful than the luxuriant foliage. Intermingled with the vines were chesnut and olive trees, while in the parts more distant, were rich and closely planted woods, forming a back-ground in good keeping with the whole of the splendid landscape. The plot began to thicken about 8 o'clock, when a brisk firing of musketry, among the troops in advance, announced that it was high time to reinforce the piquets, which were com manded by Captain Thomas Snowe, of the 60th. regiment. They were immediately strength- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 41 ened by the 4th battalion company of that regiment, under Captain Coote. A sharp dis charge of small arms was kept up by a cloud of French riflemen, who, gathering round under cover of the vines and cornfields, gave their fire with a degree of activity that certainly did them credit. Our men were at this time exposed in the open field, and scarcely knew from what direction the enemy were coming; but though they were nearly all young soldiers, unaccustomed to gunpowder, they behaved with a degree of steadiness worthy of their corps. Snowe in the meanwhile, with his party, which had extended to the right, was ordered to close on either flank, to support the centre, when the principal attack was made, and where the enemy, still pressing in, galled us with a pep pering that was rapidly thinning the ranks, and made our situation by no means either cool, or comfortable. With admirable presence of mind, Coote directed his men to take ad vantage of every means of cover the place afforded; and, encouraging them by his own example, they kept their ground under a gall- 42 ADVENTURES OF ing and destructive fire, from an enemy whom they were unable to answer or even to see. At this trying moment, while in the act of cheering his little band, and urging them to behave with firmness and courage, a musket- ball struck him in the heart, and reefing back a few paces, he fell, and instantly expired. His fall did not, however, dispirit his followers, on the contrary it excited an indignant feehng, which prompted them to redouble their exer tions in order to avenge his death. - Arthur Gethin Coote was a native of the south of Ireland, and had served in the 50th regiment for some years.. — He was a military looking man, strong, and well built, having dark features, and sharp penetrating eyes. — He was somewhat stately in deportment, but withal a daring soldier, steady and collected in the hour of danger. The command devolving on Lieutenant Mark Rudkin, (Captain Snowe being detached to some woods on the right,) he gave orders to retire. The piquets extending right and left immediately fell back, under a, shower of bul- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 43 lets, from the enemy's light troops, who con tinued forcing on in spite of all opposition. We gave them in return the full benefit of our small shot, as we occasionally drew up, covered by the vine hedges and olive trees, that lay within our path; and in this manner, alternately firing and retreating, so as to keep the foe aloof, we gained our situation in the line. Before twelve o'clock, the contending forces Were hard at work. Dark and accumulating masses of the enemy were advancing on every side ; for, resolving that this should be a deci sive combat, and that he would drive us back by the road on which we came, and perhaps into the sea, Junot brought into the field every man that he could muster. Such being his determination, it is no wonder that he pushed his warriors into our very teeth. They, too, if we might judge from the coolness with which they travelled up to the muzzles of our guns, seemed to think that they had nothing whatever to do, but to cut us into mince-meat, and devour us all by way of an early dinner. To the left of Vimeiro. was a chain of lofty hills, 44 ADVENTURES OF extending for a considerable way to the east ward. Upon these the main body of the British force was arrayed, and here the contest was fought with desperation. The enemy> at last, after many a hard struggle to gain the position, was completely routed, leaving a vast number of his kitted an,d wounded on the sides of the precipice, as. well as irt the hollows and ravines at its base. The 7 1st Highland Light Infantry was,. greatly distinguished on those heights, and, with the other corps of Sir Ronald Ferguson's, Brigade, charged the assailants repeatedly from, the ground. They were then commanded by that fine officer, the late Sir Dennis. Papk, and fully maintained the high station, which they had always held, in tiie military records of their country. Among their wounded was poor George Clarke, their piper, who was. struck by a, musket ball, while cheering up his comrades in the charge. Unable to proceed, the intrepid, Clarke still continued to play in animated, strains the favourite national music, and with CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 45 a noble spirit remained upon the spot, under a heavy fire, until, having fully accomplished the object of their mission, his regiment came back Victorious to the station on the hill.* The 50th regiment, commanded by Colonel George Townsend Walker, stood as firm as a rock, while a strong division under General Laborde continued to advance, at a rapid step> from the deep woods in our front, covered by a legion of tirailleurs, who quickened their pace as they neared our line^ Walker now ordered his men to prepare for close attack, and he Watched with eagle eye the favorable moment for pouncing on the enemy. When the latter, in a compact mass, arrived sufficiently up the hill, now bristled with bayo nets, the black cuffs poured in a well directed volley upon the dense array. Then, cheering loudly, and led on by its gallant chief, the whole regiment rushed forward to the charge, * Clarke received a handsome pension, and was justly re warded, by the Highland Society, with an appropriate silver medal. 46 ADVENTURES OF penetrated the formidable columns, and carried all before it. The confusion into which the panic-struck Frenchmen were thrown it would be difficult to express. No longer able to withstand the British steel, Laborde and his invincibles made a headlong retreat, and never looked behind them till they reached the forest and vineyards in the rear. As far as the eye could reach over the well planted vattey, and across the open country lying beyond the forest, the fugitives were run ning in wild disorder, their white sheep-skin knapsacks discernible among woods far dis tant. There were, however, many resolute fellows, who, in retiring, took cover behind the hedgerows, saluting us with parting volleys, which did considerable execution amongst our advancing troops. At length, even this remnant of the vanquished foe, dispersed and broken in piece-meal, betook themselves to flight in every quarter of the field. The ground was thickly strewed with muskets> side arms, bayonets, accoutrements, and well-filled knapsacks, all of which had been hastily flung away as dan- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 47 gerous incumbrances. Several of the packs contained various articles of plunder, including plate in many shapes and forms, which they had robbed from the unfortunate Portuguese. Books of songs, romances, and other commo dities of a similar kind, were scattered about in all directions; and many a tender billet-doux lay open to the profane gaze and the laugh ing comments of the vulgar multitude. It was amusing, after all was over, to see the strange medley of curiosities, that had, doubtless with much pains, been collected by those who lately owned them; and it was with no very nice feelings that a general inspection of the rarities took place, as soon as the defeated army had left the field. While we were pursuing our opponents, the 20th Light Dragoons, led on by Colonel Tay lor, galloped furiously past us, in order to put a finishing stroke to the business, by complet ing any thing that the infantry might have left undone. The horsemen, unsupported, charg ing the enemy with impetuosity, and rashly going too far, were involved in a difficulty of 48 ADVENTURES OF which, in their eagerness to overtake the strag glers, they had never thought; for, getting en tangled among the trees and vineyards, they could do but little service, and suffered a loss of nearly half their number: their brave com mander being also one of those who fell in that ¦desperate onset. The 43rd regiment Was very much cut up,. being, while employed in skirmishing, consider ably exposed. I noticed at least a subdivision bf their men lying killed in a deep gulley or trench, as they fell over each other, from a raking discharge of round or grape shot. The 50th lost a great proportion of rank and file, which chiefly arose from the fire of the French light troops, while covering their column, and during their retreat. Major Charles Hill was wounded, and Captain A. G. Coote and Lieutenant I. N. Wilson were among the slain. Upon the bleak surface of the hill, from which the regiment had charged Laborde, we bivouacked that night, and reposed our weary limbs. Although the air was cold, and our situation comfortless, yet, from extreme fa- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 49 tigue, we rested perhaps more soundly than the pampered alderman on his downy couch. A windmill on the summit afforded excellent quarters for the Colonel and his personal staff, while the other officers, less fortunate, crouched together, shivering outside its base. The 50th took a standard pole and box, \vhich were borne by a serjeant between the Colours, as a trophy, during the succeeding campaigns. The French, instead of colours-, display a small brass eagle, screwed to a square box of the same metal, both of which are at tached to a pole or staff. This eagle is seldom exhibited in the heat of action, the staff being carried as a rallying point, in the same way, and for the same object as our banners. The army remained on its ground during the 22nd, no measures being taken to follow up the victory that was gained. This inaction arose from Sir Harry Burrard having arrived on the field before the termination of the battle, assumed the command, and given orders that no further hostile movement should take place. An armistice was now concluded, and the D 50 ADVENTURES OF French troops withdrew into Lisbon, where they lay encamped in one of the principal squares. Here they remained, by virtue of the convention of Cintra, until then final em barkation for France, accompanied by their renowned chieftain the celebrated Duke of Abrantes, and bearing away plunder enough to load a ship, and their arms to meet us at some future day, on some other battle-field.* • It is a singular fact, that one of those regiments of Junot's army, (the 32nd Light Infantry), was engaged with the 50th at the battle of Corunna, having lost no time in returning to their old trade of basket making. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 51 CHAPTER. IV. On the 23rd of August we commenced our march to Lisbon. As we passed through the towns and villages that lay in our course, the enthusiasm and delight evinced by the Portu guese, on seeing the Enghsh army, was un bounded. Joyful congratulations, and the ex ulting language of welcome, greeted us as we triumphantly moved along; and, wherever we appeared, the most cordial reception awaited us. In the soldiers of Britain they beheld friends and allies, who had come to deliver their country from the bondage of Napoleon, as well as of French subordinate tyranny and d 2 52 ADVENTURES OF oppression. On this account, the sentiments they entertained towards us, were those of heartfelt gratitude. Those feelings were ex pressed with vehemence and fervour, not merely by a class or a faction, but by all ranks and ages among the people, who saluted us with loud and deafening huzzas, and with cries of " viva los Inglezes— viva, viva, — viva los officiales ! viva muytos annos !" while, as we marched beneath their crowded windows, a shower of garlands, flowers, olive branches, laurels, and other harmless missiles, fell pro fusely upon us. Entering Lisbon from the North, the 29th, 40th, 50th, and 79th regi ments halted upon an elevated space of ground, called the Campo St. Anna, where we lay un disturbed for some days. The inhabitants around entertained the officers in a most liberal manner, their anxious care being to anticipate all our wants and wishes. In the full enjoy ment of the variety and amusement of the Capi tal our time passed rapidly away. Temptations and enticements were not wanting to allure us from the encampment, and pleasure in many CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 53 shapes appeared on every side. The Opera was well attended by those who ventured at a late hour through the long narrow streets and passages ; but the pedestrian found this by no means an agreeable excursion, for it is the custom here to throw out from the windows sundry fluids, not of the most savoury nature, and while the generous inmate shrieks out, " take care below !" he, at the same instant, by way of a salute, pours the contents of his pail or bucket on the pate of the luckless passenger. The French soldiers, who occupied the Praca de Rocio, frequently insulted the British officers who were returning from the theatre. Having to pass their camp one night, in company with a friend, both of us were challenged by the sentries, who, not waiting our reply, despatched a bullet to detain us. This caused us to quicken our pace without delay, lest they should think proper to send a second messenger of the same kind, which might put an effectual stop to our further progress. With their officers, however, \ve were on good terms; and, while holding 54 ADVENTURES OF conversation with them, at the coffee-houses, where we met, on the subject of our late pro ceedings, we found them generally pleasant, intelligent men. As long as the French re mained, our duties were severe; we being, on their account, kept pretty much on the alert. I must confess, however, that mounting guard upon the convent of San Vinoento was not the most harassing of those duties ; for the priests, and other holy characters lodged therein, were a jolly, convivial set of fellows, and regaled us handsomely upon the best of dainties, plying their guests with oceans of capital wine, which the well-fed clerigos extracted from the nether most chambers of their venerable abode. The intruders, bag and baggage, having fi nally embarked upon the Tagus, a considerable portion of the garrison of Lisbon was directed to proceed to Monte Santo, a favourable situ ation on the road to Cintra, and about four miles from the city. We reached that place on the 28th of September, and remained en camped there for a month. At this period, Colonel Walker being promoted, the command CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 55 of our regiment devolved on Major Charles Napier, who had recently arrived from the 2nd battalion in order to relieve Major Hill, wounded at Vimeiro. The Honorable Major Stanhope and Ensign David Leslie also joined about the same time. Orders having been issued for us to march through Portugal, for the purpose of joining General Sir John Moore, at Salamanca, the 50th regiment set out from Monte Santo on the 28th of October, at 6 o'clock in the morn ing. The weather was dark, with heavy rain, which fell on us most unmercifully until we got to Lisbon. We travelled by the main road to Abrantes, along the right bank of the Tagus, and, halting at Sacavemj arrived on the follow ing day at Villa Franca. The inhabitants, on our route, were most hospitable ; receiving us with a heartiness of welcome to which we had been unaccustomed in other lands. On the 30th we got into Azambuja: the road was passable enough, though in some parts rough and hilly, winding along the course of the river, which rolled between deep and thickly 56 ADVENTURES OF woodedbanks. Continuing, on the 31st, through the same description of country, we entered Santarem, after a pleasant though somewhat sultry march. The city of Santarem consists of several narrow, dark, and ill-paved streets, the houses paltry looking, and badly built, having heavy sombre windows, grated with massive iron bars, hke those of their prisons. Balconies, with painted railings thrown across, relieve in some degree this melancholy aspect, but the dingy hues, added to the meanness of the streets, give the place an air of poverty and wretchedness. On our reaching the house where we were bittetted, the landlord, with his worse or scolding half, ushered us into a com fortless apartment; where, in a dark corner, stood a miserable bed, which seemed to have had other occupants than human beings. On our exclaiming against this uninviting dormi tory, the old crone, grumbling inwardly, con ducted us to another chamber, where the do mestics, and different members of the family, were busily engaged in a deadly war against CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 57 the numerous population of each others heads. Starting from their interesting employment, they left us quietly in possession of the room where lay two mattresses on the unswept floor; on these we were to repose, not without the prospect of a sharp attack from the fugitives of that army with which our Portuguese hosts had been so hotly engaged. Yet, in spite of circumstances of this kind, the life of a soldier on service, taking all things together, is the finest in the world. While he moves on, a roving adventurer, care, pain and trouble are banished from his mind; and though he is at times on short commons, and often driven to his wits' end, he but seldom re pines. His sufferings give him a greater relish for the enjoyment of any good things that may he forthcoming, or any windfall that Fortune may throw in his way. Once fairly on the road, it is astonishing how rapidly the hours .glide away. The formalities of parade or drill marching are now at an end, and every one indulges in that mode of perambulation which best suits him When, tbe commanding n 5 58 ADVENTURES OF officer is not one of your strict disciphW rians, the regimental juniors congregate toge ther in groups, some in front, some in rear ; while the men, though keeping their sections, travel in open ranks, filling the entire space of ground over which the route extends* At the head of the column, is to be seen a host of seniors, or old hands, among whom the laugh and joke prevail ; and there many a long-winded veteran inflicts upon the ears of his patient auditors a narrative as endless as the road. Ever and anon the seeond Major falls back, and, in order to shew his conse quence and zeal, especially if a General with his staff should chance to be passing, he calls out, in a most important tone, " Gentlemen, get into your places !" " keep on the flanks !" and other friendly admonitions. As soon as he is convinced, by the approving looks of the great man with the long feather and epaulettes, that his vigilance has been duly noticed, he gallops off to his old station, and the gentle men betake themselves again to theirs, till another appearance of the chief, when the stray CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 59 sheep are again called back to the flock. By the by, I know of nothing else that these second Majors have to do, unless it be to act the part of moveable pivots for dressing up the line, (in which they are generally very fussy), or in whipping-in the young subalterns, whom they endeavour to keep in order. The surgeon, who is often a veiy hearty fellow, with better things than boluses and pill boxes in his panniers— together with the adju tant, and his brethren of the staff, attract around them, in the rear, a batch of thoroughly pleasant men, who keep up such a volley of jest and drollery, as frequently to beguile the weariness of the longest march. Thanks to their amusing powers, we have often found ourselves at the gates of the town, or on the camp ground, without being aware that we had travelled any distance. At intervals of one or two hours, each day, the troops are halted for a few minutes' rest; Then, all, as if by magic wand, are quickly squatted, and haversack being catted for, the whole of them, like hungry cormorants at their 60 ADVENTURES OF prey, are soon engaged in one grand scene of mastication. Some perform a solo on the shank-bone of a well picked ham; others dis play their talents on the drumstick of a half- starved fowl; while the majority gnaw their way through the skinny junk of an old tough bullock. The vultures and other birds of evil 0 omen are, meanwhile, hovering in mid air, ready to pounce upon the remnants of the feast when we are gone. At the well-known sound of pipes, or bugle, the warriors are again (to use a parliamentary phrase) on their legs, stretching them out with renewed vigour. Amongthe soldiers there is like wise much of drollery and mirth, nothing makes much difference with them— it matters not whether trumps turn up or not ; whether the chance be a battle, or a good billet, they are still the same, and trudge along devoid of care. Give them their allowance, and a little rest, and they require no more. Day after day I have listened to their jokes and stories, and been highly entertained by their originality and humour. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 61 In the 2nd division, a pack of hounds accom panied the troops, and, whenever a favourable opportunity occurred, they were let loose, and an excellent view halloo was frequently afforded, to the great delight of the sporting characters in our line. The Commissary, with his long and short horned regiment, marched at a convenient dis tance, attended by their executioners; while the train of bullock carts, laden with provender and other stores, brings up the rear. The heavy, dull, monotonous drone, arising from the friction of the cartwheels, is heardfor miles, while the jing- lingofthebells,withwhichthemules are garnish ed, produces a concert that rings in the head of the hearer for days and nights together, an swering all the purpose of an itinerant serenade. But we must break off from this digression; for it is time to resume our march towards Salamanca. We quitted Santarem on the third of No vember, and soon got into a pleasant road, winding along the banks of the Tagus, through adark forest of olive trees, the branches of which 62 ADVENTURES OF overhung our path, and formed a refreshing shade. Marching over the summit of a barren height, we reached the Zezere, a small but rapid stream, which here falls into the Tagus, This river we crossed by a bridge of boats, and halted at Punhete, on the opposite side, where we occupied some crazy buildings, which were deserted by the inhabitants. Through a tract by no means interesting we then held our course, on the 10th, and arrived at Neisa. The ill-fed, half-clothed, and meagre Portuguese, unused to the inundation of so many soldiers, were stupified or panic struck, flying like savage animals on our approach. The weather was harsh, and the wind, moaning through the open casements, penetrated into every hole and corner of their dwellings. Little comforted by repose, our march was still continued, until we entered a range of bleak and rugged moun tains, at the base of which is situated the well- known pass of Villa Velha, which takes its name from an adjacent village, and intercepts the "communication on the great road into Spain. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 63 Here the Tagus, again opening to our view, is contracted into a very narrow space, and rushes with violence between the impending rocks; on either hand the steep and lofty pre cipices being cleft, as if by an earthquake, form an almost impassable barrier to the pro gress of an army. A pontoon bridge had been thrown across, but this was destroyed by the French, whose troops were last upon the route, and we were therefore forced to hire three small row-boats, from the Portuguese, by which the regiment was conveyed to the opposite bank, after being long detained, owing to the rapidity of the current, impeding all our efforts to get on. Our route traversing the boundaries of Portugal, was, in many places, overgrown with brushwood, and crossed at intervals, by rivu lets. Huge stones and roots of trees lay scat tered here and there. The wearied soldiers toiled with difficulty along, under the most tem pestuous weather, the inclemency of which was severely felt in those Alpine regions, where the cold was so excessive as to require the hardest 64 ADVENTURES OF bodily exercise to withstand its influence. In order to keep the men alive, the band and drums were frequently put in requisition, which had a marvellous effect ; and our Commander, Major Napier, occasionally ordered some well- known national quickstep, when, in a moment, as if by magic, those who were tired and jaded sprung up, endued as it were ^with additional life and vigour, and, giving the knapsack a cast upon the shoulder, stepped out once more with fresh spirit. The music, as we approach ed the towns, had the twofold purpose of pleas ing the inhabitants and cheering on the troops. Even the lame and weakly, although weighed down by the heavy burthen which they carried, exerted their remaining strength to make a bold appearance. On the line of march, for many a tedious league, did the officers use every means to animate their men, by giving them an example of patient endurance under every suffering. The Field Officers and Staff alone, were allowed to ride at that time ; the other ranks, although from previous habits less able than even the privates to bear fatigue,had CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 65 no alternative but to trudge it with their com panies from day to day. The young recruits and drummers felt the hardship most, and often upon the journey has Major Napier given his charger to one of them, or to any poor fellow who could not well get on, while with a musket, or sometimes a brace of them, on his shoulder, he walked before the regiment. Thus, by his considerate kindness - for the men, he was securing to himself that respect and estimation in which they always held him, as well as actuating them to perform their duty in a manner worthy of one who, whether in quarters or in the field, never spared himself whenever an opportunity offered to promote their comfort. The poverty of the oppressed and ill-Used na tives, wherever our course lay, was lamentable ; the French, according to. their regular system, carried famine and desolation in their train ; paying for nothing, they drew their supplies by force of arms, and their marauding foragers overran the surrounding districts, forcing the peasantry, as well as those who lived in towns, 66 ADVENTURES OF to pay the expenses of their barbarous invasion. In consequence of the ravages committed on the people, there was nothing in their markets, or their shops, " a beggarly account of empty boxes ;" and the lean and sallow proprietors were proofs sufficient of the unhappy state in which their land was placed. They were so terrified, that it was difficult to prevail on them to sell even what they could spare. — Upon de manding what we could obtain from them, the reply at all times was, " no hai nada aqui," or, " we have nothing here." Seeing us rather incre dulous, and on being again requested, they would persist in the refusal, with a shrug of the shoulders, and passing the fore finger twice across the nose, crying out, "nada, nada;" but, when the finger was three times moved quickly over the nasal organ, with the scream of " nada, nada, nada," the affair was finally settled, and there was no further appeal from this hope less gesticulation. Even when by great good luck, there was something to, be had, there was still an obstacle in the way. In those days we were often puz- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 67 zled by the language, and in trying to make ourselves understood, were forced to resort to a great variety of expedients. When our bro ken and disjointed phrasesfailed,we were driven to the use of signs and hieroglyphics ; suiting the action to the word, we explained our wants by distorting the limbs and body into strange figures, symbolical of the article required. Officers and men were alike in this dilemma ; and fortunate was the lucky genius who could jabber, though in a most indifferent way, for he was sure to get to windward of his less favoured comrades. The market-place was a stage, upon which many a brainless youth, with much more gold upon his jacket than ever his pocket carried, shewed off his slender stock of Portuguese, and palmed himself upon the natives as a person of the utmost consequence. Others expressed their wishes in a sort of gibberish, formed out of scraps of English, German, French and Latin, but without a syllable of the language wanted. The soldiers used a most extraordinary dialect, compounded of Irish, Gaelic, and the mother tongue, inter- 68 ADVENTURES OF larded with a good supply of oaths, by which to impress the subject on the head-piece of the patient countrymen, who underwent their curses, rage, and sometimes worse, when the cry of " no intendes" was uttered by them. As to signs and gestures, they were as varied as the movements of a posture-master or even punchinello. When pork or any thing per taining to the hog, was wanted, grunting in imitation of that animal, was the means em ployed. The desire for eggs was signified by cackling hke a hen ; was a mule or jackass required, the hands were stuck up on each side above the head, to denote the length of ears, or an awful braying was put forth, enough to call the brotherhood about the performer ; tobacco or snuff was demanded by a sneeze, followed, in many cases, by a tweak upon the organ in which the filthy powder Mas to be deposited ; and milk was procured by imitat ing the extraction of that useful fluid from the cow. In short,for every thing there was a corres ponding signal, a code of which would have form ed an excellent appendage to a soldier's kit. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 69 We arrived at Guarda in the midst of storm and rain, half drowned and miserable. Well do I remember the bitterness of the day, while toiling up the steep ascent that led us to the gates of that old town. Seeing our deplorable trim, the owner of the dwelling where we were billetted acted with true Christian humanity ; he had dry clothes in readiness, together with large wood fires^ hot wine, and cordials ; and, by his benevolent care, we were restored to the full enjoyment of those comforts which he so generously bestowed; I have very seldom, if ever, met with such an instance of disinterested and genuine hospitality. We now passed the frontier of Portugal into Spain, and halted for a night at Ciudad Rod- rigo. On approaching the city, we were horri fied by the sight of lofty gibbets, four of which were planted on the entrances, having append ed to each the quarters of some unfortunate malefactor, whose limbs were blackening in the sun. These sickening emblems of their cruelty impressed us with no very good opinion of the people with whom we were about to hold 70 ADVENTURES OF friendly intercourse ; and their conduct on this night was quite in character with their gibbets. A more atrocious set of men we never had the honour of being acquainted with ; and so much did they appear in favour of our enemies, that we were convinced they would gladly have de livered us into their hands, if it had been in their power to do so. An officer of the 79th unfortunately got involved in a dispute, and, while passing through one of their dark and narrow streets, was barbarously assassinated by an unknown hand. The troops being obliged to march next morning, at an early hour, it was impossible to discover by Whom the murder was committed ; and, indeed, we were then so circumstanced, with respect to the Spanish people, that we could not closely in vestigate the affair. Ample vengeance, how ever, fell upon this city when the French got in; and in the assault and capture of the place, in 1812, plunder and destruction was its fate: on our return to Portugal, it presented to our view a heap of burned and desolated ruins. The part of the country through which we CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 71 now marched appeared one vast plain of im measurable extent. The heavy rains were succeeded by a gentle fall of snow ; and the surface of the ground was crisped by a light pleasant frost, rendering the highway perfectly hard, smooth, and level, and most agreeable to our pedestrian feelings. About 2 p. m. on the 25th of November, the turrets, 'domes, and spires, of the justly cele brated city of Salamanca were discernable, above the sandy heights by which they are en compassed. Crossing the Tormes, by means of a long antique bridge, we ascended the street leading into the great square, the windows and balconies of which were filled with the delight ed people ; while the countless multitudes around gave utterance to the most sincere and warm expressions of welcome, highly gratifying to us, after the murderous reception which had been given to our troops by the treacherous rene gades of Rodrigo. Well pleased to find ourselves at last, after our long and harassing journey, within the gates of this interesting and an cient seat of learning, we could not refrain yi ADVENTURES OF from giving vent to the gladness by which we were inspired, and joined our voices with those of the Spaniards, in cheering heartily as we approached. Having secured the billets, I proceeded, along with my friend Moore, to the house al lotted for our habitation, which was situated in a narrow and rather lonely street, adjoining the walls of the great cathedral, the projecting and massive turrets of which hung with solemn majesty over our humble dwelling. The patron, who was one of the officiating ministers of this church, was a man of most important exterior, with a countenance expressive of the full en joyment of every comfort. In this respect, however, we could not aver that he was selfish ; for, upon our admittance within his holy abode, our worthy host left no means untried by which to manifest the ardour of his feelings, and the high regard in which he held the Enghsh soldiers. From his well-stored pantry he phed us with every luxury : without much bashful- ness or hesitation, we helped ourselves to the dainty fare, and, joined by the generous padre, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. fS we filled out large potations of his sparkling wines, in a manner that would have done credit to the most zealous bon vivant. Our venerable divine was a true disciple of that school, of which his rotundity of figure, and rosy, shining visage, were " confirmations strong as proofs of holy writ." In Salamanca we found every preparation going forward for the advance of the army, and Sir John Moore waiting for the division under General Hope, then on its march through the South of Portugal by the Alentejo. In the meantime, we enjoyed ourselves very much, in the variety arising from the presence of so large a portion of the troops assembled here. The officers of our regiments were no less highly gratified than we were, by the affability and kindness of the people, who exerted themselves to make our residence among them as happy as we could possibly desire. Lieutenant Hugh Birchall, of the Light Company, discovered an old acquaintance, from his native town in Ireland, in the person of a Spanish priest; who had, a few years since, E 74 ADVENTURES OF come to this place, for the purpose of finishing his classical education, and obtaining a higher polish than the bogs of his native country could afford, preparatory to his entering on the holy office. The reverend divine, who eventually became a member of the clerical establishment here, introduced us to his brothers of the cloth, who, though they treated all with hospitality, directed their attention more particularly to the Hibernians, whom, considering as bon Christi- anos, they entertained with all the warmth of brotherly affection. Father Patrick, as the Irishman was called, maintained the character of his country for the convivial virtues, and he proved an excellent cicerone to all the lions of this very respectable city. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 75 CHAPTER V. Lieutenant General Sir John Hope's division having arrived at head quarters, the whole of the allied forces, under Sir John Moore, march ed out of Salamanca on the 12th of December, 1S08. The snow was lying deep on the ground; and, although the atmosphere was clear and bracing, yet the wintry and desolate appearance of all around was rather discouraging, as we faced the northern blast, coming down most wrathfully upon us, from the wild mountains of Biscay and Navarre. After passing through Toro, and other good towns, we at length e 2 76 ADVENTURES of halted at Sahagun, a small place, in front of which our advanced guards were posted. Here we lay encamped until the 25th, on the morn ing of which day the whole army was on the move, and the memorable retreat to Corunna was commenced. The troops entered upon the high road leading into Galicia, followed by 80,000 French soldiers, commanded by the re nowned conqueror, Napoleon Bonaparte, in person. The operations of this part of the campaign have been made well known by the pubhc re cords; avoiding all detail, I shall, therefore, confine myself to those circumstances that happened within my own knowledge, or that may have occurred in the regiment with which I served. Lord William Bentinck's brigade, in the 1st division, was composed of the 4th, or King's Own, Colonel Wynch: — 42nd, Royal High landers, Colonel Sterling: — 50th, Queen's Own, Major Napier. The division was commanded by General Sir David Baird, a man with a look of military CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 77 daring, and as brave as a lion. By his pre sence and example, the troops, (whom he never quitted,) were encouraged to proceed with order and regularity, notwithstanding the sufferings they underwent, under the painful circum stances of a retreat ; and it was not until mind and body had lost all spirit and energy, that disorder or want of disciphne shewed itself among the ranks. Exposed, as they were, to the most unparalleled inclemency of weather, they submitted, without a murmur, to a con tinuance of hard and trying service, enough to bear down the strongest constitution. To de scribe minutely the whole of the privations and miseries which they encountered, would far exceed the powers of any human being: no one can possibly conceive the full extent of what the soldiers were compelled to under go, in the course of this unfortunate cam paign. The passage of the Esla, a wide and rapid torrent, was an enterprise attended with con siderable loss and danger. On arriving at the 78 ADVENTURES OF margin of the river, there seemed hardly a hope of being able to get across, with so much vio lence did the current roll : and, uncertain as we were of the part most fordable, it was a perilous attempt for those who undertook to make the trial. There was, however, no alter native; to the other side we were to go, at any risk, for, the enemy pressing closely at our heels, the slightest delay would have produced fatal results. We therefore dashed at it, and nobly did the men perform their duty. Agree able as the cool, refreshing'stream may be in mild regions, it was by no means a very delightful task to wade past one's middle, or rather up to the neck, through the raging waters, upon a bleak and cheerless day in December. There was no use whatever in making any prepara tion, or in disrobing for the bath; in fact, there was no time, but with all our harness on, we were compelled to make the best way we could in the chilling promenade. Luckily a spot was found, by which the advance was sent across, and the infantry, following their leaders, strug- CAPTAIN PATTERSON, 79 gled along, bearing their arms and ammunition above the head. After much difficulty, plung ing and buffetting the angry flood, the whole at length succeeded in gaining the opposite bank; from whence, having " shaken off the watery dew-drops," and ranged ourselves in some sort of order for another stretch, we pushed away by the main road leading into the mountains. The advantage of lofty stature was highly conspicuous in this affair, for the man of tower ing height strutted above the wave, with no small pride on his extent of longitude; while the poor, insignificant fellow of Lilliputian build, looked pitifully up at his more fortunate companion, bemoaning his diminutive size, as the muddy fluid either washed his pericranium, or flowed in copious volumes down his unwil ling throat. As for those ill-fated damsels, our faithful attendants through storm and sunshine, it had been far better for them that they had never left their home; for, by their desire to follow the drum, they entailed upon themselves a world of trouble, and miseries enough to 80 ADVENTURES OF drain their patience to the lowest ebb. Here I gladly record the valuable services of those poor women, who, devoted to their hus bands and children, underwent a series of bitter suffering almost beyond human en durance. Toihng with their regiments through thick and thin, they never failed in their duties, and proved, in camp as well as in quarters, the most active and persevering in giving aid and useful service, whenever it might be required. Patient under every thing, they were always at hand, foraging, cooking, and rendering att kinds of assistance; while the men, borne down by hard fatigue, were often unable to help them selves. In fact, without the labours of the fair sex, we should not have been able to get on; and I shall ever respect the heroine, who has completed the range of her accomplishments, by having served with honour a campaign or two. By forced marches, night and day, we at last arrived at Lugo, a large town on the road to Corunna; and in its vicinity, the army was CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 81 drawn up in order of battle. We fully ex pected, from the confident manner in which the French troops were brought into the posi tion in our front, that an opportunity would now be afforded of giving them a warming in this cold weather. After waiting, however, for nearly two days, they declined the honour of our services; and their columns closing up, in numbers far superior to that of our force, it was deemed advisable to withdraw from the field, when there was no advantage to be gained by maintaining our ground. In consequence of the rapid pace at which we moved, the Commissariat was altogether unavailable; and, depending on the remnant of four days provisions, our lantern jaws were getting impatient for active service ; for, howr ever briskly the nether limbs might be engaged, it was quite evident that our jaws were idle, and would never prosper by their indolence. In this matter there was no respect of persons; pockets full of cash were of n® particular use, nothing was to be obtained for love or money. Desolation and its accompanying train, of e 5. 82 ADVENTURES OF horrors were our companions, and General Star vation, with his two aid-de-camps, Hunger and Thirst, with all the rest of his personal staff, were constantly at our elbow. Sauntering into Lugo one day, I chanced to drop into a crazy building, the roof of which had been torn up for fire wood. There, in a dark corner, somewhat resembling a dog kennel, and where some straw had just been scattered,, I espied a group of militants, busily employed about something, but about what I could not well determine. Upon closer inspection, however, it appeared that these heroes, most of whom rejoiced in the title of Colonels or Majors, were in conclave about the discussion (not of a tactical movement), but ofanill-lookingfowl, that seemed from his lanky sides as if " sharp misery had worn him to the bones," or as if he had died a natural death some length of time past. — It was nevertheless a dainty morsel to them, and they were gallantly tearing it limb from limb, and gnawing the meagre skeleton, at the time I entered. I departed from a place where the craving intruder was not a welcome CAPTAIN PATTERSON. S3 guest, and joined the camp, to feed on visions of the past, and ruminate on better things to come* The greatest suffering we endured was want of sleep. In our nocturnal wanderings, those who were exhausted and overcome with fatigue, (and few were not,) supported themselves be tween the men; and, each leaning on his neighbour, dozing wearily along, would every now and then waken up by a sudden bump, or push, against the knapsack of the man in front; thus, alternately bumping and dozing, we travelled with a staggering pace through the dreary and wintry road. Those who were made of weather-proof and tough materials kept their places in the ranks, while others, of more feeble frame and constitution, unable to withstand the terrible effect of cold and drifting snow, of famine and want of rest, sunk to the earth, upon the bleak and barren mountain, where they speedily perished, or fell into the hands of the enemy. Heavily burthened as the men were with ammunition, there was but a small proportion of them who were, able to. maintain their situation in the ranks., 84 ADVENTURES OF Lieutenant McCarthey, of our regiment, an excellent old officer and intrepid soldier, was among those who suffered most from excessive fatigue. He kept up as long as he had the power, but being somewhat worn out by hard service, he was indifferently calculated to wea ther out the rough work of this retreat. Faint and half frozen, he fell in the snow, and giving himself up to despair, lay for a considerable period in an insensible condition. Meanwhile some of his- companions, having missed poor Mac from his accustomed place, quickly re traced their steps, and found him almost life less on the cold earth. By giving him a few drops of rum, they in some degree restored him to his senses, and raising his drooping head, they helped him forward to the next halting place, from whence he struggled on to Corunna, where he was severely wounded in the subsequent battle. It was about this time that General Anstruther died, in consequence of privations and exposure to the dreadful weather. The weather, for the greater part of our CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 85 march, was unusually desperate; the moun tains, by which we were surrounded, were covered with deep snow, and over the dreary waste the wind in piercing blasts swept vio lently, driving the hail and sleet in' our faces, so as to render it a most difficult matter to get along. At intervals, rain poured down with such tremendous force, that our open and straggling columns were compelled to halt, and close up into a solid body, in order that only the exterior of the mass might be exposed to the pelting fury of the storm. To clear away the snow from the spot on which we halted was our first employment, at the termination of each day's journey; and a most delighful frigid bedchamber was modelled out, the damp ground our couch, Mith the canopy of heaven for a curtain; the furniture was completed by the fragment of a rock, turning the softest side of which upwards, to. make it serve for a pil low, our slumbers, during the few short mo ments allowed for repose, were sound though unrefreshing. Occasionally crowding in groups around a huge fire, when wood could be ob- 86 ADVENTURES OF tained, (which was not always the case), we gathered in without much ceremony, with our feet towards the blazing faggots, and stretched ourselves out, somewhat after the manner of Avild animals, patiently awaiting the unwelcome summons that was to start us from our cold and cheerless lair. It was truly melancholy to behold this dis mal picture of the exterminating consequences of war. The ravages unavoidably committed by the troops were excessive. The weather and season of the year caused it to be almost impos sible to procure timber for fuel, otherwise than by destroying the miserable hovels, that lay dispersed among the hollows and ravines of these wild regions. The frame-work of doors and windows, as well as that of the roof, were put in requisition, the extreme emergency of the case demanding such resources, without which the army must have been inevitably lost. Sir David Baird was most indefatigable in his- exertions, riding with the column, passing; CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 87 along both flanks,* urging on the weary troops, at the same time keeping them in their ranks, and, by his orders and presence, enforcing upon the officers £he necessity of attending minutely to every point of duty. Where the roads were broken up by the rapid mountain streams, he took post near the stepping-stones, laid by former travellers across the brooks, compelling all without exception to pass on * While Sir David Baird and his satellites were bustling about from one flank to another, driving every one through the water without mercy, several of the knowing hands devised sundry schemes to cross the chasm dryshod ; some would take a run for it, and with a hop, step and a jump get safe past the rubicon; others, in the vain attempt, were baulked half way, and, splashing on, encountered the frigid element. But, to- the men, it was the best sport imaginable, to see some mighty precise and finical dandy, who, as unwilling as a cat to wet his feet, was most cautiously picking his steps, completely discom fited by the coming up of Sir David in a rage, who, repri manding him in no very gentle tones, would send the poor shivering exquisite to perambulate the stream, to the no small chagrin of our hero, and to the delight of the whole brigade. The equestrians and gentlemen of the staff were, in general, not over compassionate ; but, chuckling up in their comfortable saddles, joined in the general outcry of merriment, and in their capacity of whippers in resumed, their occupation- 88 ADVENTURES OF through the water, however deep it might be, in order that no delay or impediment should obstruct the movements of the army. — He was equally vigilant to frustrate any attempt to plunder, and, in many cases, he made the officer stand at the door of the wine house, to stop the admission of those men, Ayho might fall out with that intention upon the line of march. A more intrepid soldier I have never seen. Qf powerful stature, with a bold stern aspect, he bore in his sunburnt countenance the indication of a mind equally strong and vigorous as. his body, and wherever he was stationed, military discipline was carried on with a degree of strictness, worthy alone of such a warlike and determined man. While going through the small, town of Villa Franca, which is seated in the midst of a chain of mountains, a depot of clothing and. provisions was thrown open, and the contents thereof flung out quickly to the troops, who, having no time to halt, were puzzled as to how those things were to be disposed of. Shoes were eagerly grasped at, the men trying them on as. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 89 they hastily passed along. There Mras no fas tidious picking and choosing here, nor were we over nice as to the shape and quality of the article ; whether they were the handy-work of Hoby or of humbler origin was never enquired about. Such as they were they proved to many a boon most welcome. Yet some discom fort arose from them in several instances. Here might be seen a man pinched and tottering along, making such wry faces as though he were undergoing a course of torture ; while not far from him shuffled along another, in shoes, or rather churns, that were capacious enough for the feet of the Irish giant. It was painful to behold the anxiety of the poor fellows to get some relief to their hunger; and when the pieces of salt beef and pork were thrown to them, by the commissary from the storehouse gates, they were seized upon with the same avidity with which John Bull would pounce upon plum-pudding or fat bacon; how these delicacies were to be cooked, was a diffi cult question to be resolved. Speared on points of swords, or transfixed with bayonet, pike, or 90 ADVENTURES OF other weapon, the exquisite morsels of junk were borne aloft triumphant to the first halt ing place. Few of them, however, found their way to the end of the day's march ; for the men, fearing that time would not permit the dressing of the tempting viands, pitched most of them to the crows and vultures, resorting to the more accustomed and feasible luxuries of tommy (bread) and rum. Flour was likewise doled out to them in scanty pittance ; but no means of culinary operation being at hand, the pulverized allowance was scattered to the winds, the luckless warriors being left to feast upon their own melancholy thoughts, or take their dinners with Duke Humphrey. A few of the more cunning among the oldest stagers mixed up a sort of tough consistence of this same flour, with a solution of snow in dirty water, and with the aid of a flat smooth stone, by way of table, manufactured a compo sition, something in form and substance not unlike a nine pound shot, and which might be converted to the same use. This bit of delicate pastry, which was called a doughboy, was CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 91 sometimes crammed into the haversack for future provender, and the unfortunate genius who could not manage to bake the treasured lump, devoured it ravenously in its moist and tender state. The hard sea-biscuit, soaked in rum, was a much more agreeable article of food, and it was more convenient and more readily attained than any thing else. During occasional halts, and when we could snatch a few moments from the hands of old father Time, we contrived to get some water boiled, and, O happy man! that could succeed in procuring a decoction of the Chinese plant : still more fortunate was he who had even a brief space allowed, to enjoy the refreshing beverage, for often, while in the act of introduc ing the burning fluid to our impatient mouths, the old adage of ' the cup and the lip,' was verified to our cost, the aforesaid cup with its contents being hastily thrown away, after scalding our hungry as well as angry chops ; the French, in a most officious manner, choos ing, hke Paul Pry, to intrude at that particular period upon our tantalizing and forbidden cheer. 92 ADVENTURES OF Passing Nogales, Constantine, and other places on the route, we traversed the mountain road that wound in zigzags along the barren sides of the precipice; the wilderness by which we were surrounded having a most dreary as pect. From the promontory between Villa Franca and the latter village the money chests were overturned, and the doubloons and dollars were scattered among the rocks, from whence they rolled into the dark abyss below, forming a precious cascade of gold and silver, enough to tantalize the craving rapacity of a Jew. Many of the wanderers from the ranks got their purses lined, and it was said, that, in the attempts to gather up the cash, some fell down the steep, and were dashed to pieces in the chasms, by which the heights were intersected. The Paymaster's trade was, in those days, quite a sinecure; with his hands thrust into his empty pockets, he was a gentleman at large, whose pay-day was a dead letter, and whose muster-roll was getting into a very re duced compass. Jt was a pitiable sight, at this period, to be- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 93 hold the forlorn condition of the women and the children. Those who could not get upon baggage waggons, trudged along with painful steps, scarcely able to bear up the weight by which they were encumbered. Many sank during the bitter night famished, way-worn, and in the snow, with infants at their breasts, or in their arms, and in this situation were found lifeless and frozen on the following morning. Others took refuge from the storm on the dis mantled ammunition carts, that lay about the road, and, trying to get shelter there, perished with their children on this frail tenement as they crouched in groups together. The whole exhibition was one of appalling wretchedness, that would harrow up the feel ings even of those who had long been familiar with lamentable scenes. The entire materiel of the army became a total wreck, from which comparatively small were the numbers that escaped, and but few were able to keep up with their colours upon the hne of march. Our clothes were worn to rags, the jacket being no better than "a thing of shreds and 94 ADVENTURES OF patches," metamorphosed from red to a sort of muddy claret colour ; and as for shoes, O, what a falling off was there ! with sole and body in a state of separation, the partnership was a- bout to be dissolved. — They could not be said to have held out to the last, for as they ap proached their end, they were something like the Irishman's brogues, that were happily supplied with holes to let the water out as fast as it rushed in, and gave our feet the ad vantage of an excellent portable bath. The other garments were in good keeping ; unmen tionables, of every shade and colour, were in expressibly worn out, and pieced in a manner that would have qualified the wearer to perform the part of Harlequin. The whole attire was surmounted by a nondescript article, vulgarly called a cocked hat, which, glazed with a substance that had once had a polish, formed a good reservoir for rain, its angular point answering the purpose of a waterspout, while the flap hanging over the dorsal region, like that of a London coal heaver, imparted to the owner, a look of a most dubious character. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 95 Our personal charms could not by any means be made the subject of admiration, not even the best of us could vie with Adonis on that head; on the contrary, we might have rivalled the living skeleton, and many an am bitious tyro, who at home was pampered and well fed, was now attenuated into the lathy form of a spectre, and would not on any ac count have presumed to offer himself as a candidate for the civic chair. Of exercise and early rising we had an abundance, and as those things are said to be conducive to health, we ought to have been the most vigorous of the human race. To the sad deterioration of costume which I have described, there was, however, one brilli ant exception. It was displayed by an officer of ours, Lieutenant *****} who entertained us much by the way in which he managed matters. In the worst of times, when the rain and wind fell desperately on us during the retreat, and all were, as I have already said, covered with mud and dirt, and drenched from head to foot, with nothing beautiful to be seen about us, 96 ADVENTURES OF this lovely youth, a diamond of the first water, the very quintessence of an exquisite, seemed on att occasions as if emerged from the limits of a bandbox. His raiment and general attire fresh from the mint, he must at least, like King Richard, have had " a score or two of tailors" to adorn his person. Whether it was that he was purified by the frequent showers, or from what other source he derived his amiable' ap pearance, I know not, but it is certain that we were completely puzzled by the magic of his toilet ; and had Beau Brummel ever ventured on the field of Mars he would have resigned his claim, as prince of dandies, to our hero. I knew of only one man in the service who could approach him, and that was a well known Captain of the 34th. ***** retired soon after from the army, and cannot fail like his proto type of old, the famous Nash, wherever he may flourish, (if in this world), to be the leader of the ton, and the observed of all observers. Towards the beginning of January, (1809) it was reported that the shipping, for our con veyance to England, had arrived in the Bay of CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 97 Corunna, and it therefore became a matter of doubt whether or not we should have afield-day with our pursuers, before the time of embarka tion. With the utmost energy that men could display, the enemy, however, anxious not tolose the opportunity of obtaining, as he imagined, a certain triumph, put forth his strength to reach the coast as early as he could, and con sequently our rear guard, consisting of the Light Division, was not allowed a moment's rest. Followed by great superiority of num bers, the natural difficulty of the ground, com bined with astonishing exertions, alone enabled them to check the foe. Their vigilance and valour were fully put to the proof, and never did men acquit themselves better on such an arduous duty than did these soldiers. Whenever we gained the summit of a hill, all eyes were on the watch to catch a glimpse of the long looked out for ships. One height after another was ascended, but still nothing was in sight; before us lay, in wearisome per spective, the same tedious road, that seemed F 98 ADVENTURES OF as though it were never to have an end. It was a wide, well-beaten track, the distances from Corunna being marked in leagues upon huge granite pillars, or, Hibernicatty speaking, milestones. The inscription upon them being oftentimes illegible or defaced, we asked some wandering peasant, who might perchance ap pear, the space we had to travel; but we could hardly ever get a correct reply, for though the stupid fellow told us that we had not more than half a league to go, we generally found it more than two leagues; sometimes the brain less oaf screamed poquito mais (a httle bit more), this little bit turning out at least a league, or upwards, of very honest measure. It was pro voking to be thus baffled and disappointed, but there was no remedy, and the jaded itine rants kept travelling onwards, in the same dull route. At length the long wished for Bay was spread out before us; but alas ! no fleet was there ! The spirits of all from the height of joy as suddenly fell below zero, and the misery of hope deferred was now to be endured. The CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 99 soldiers, however, soon brightened up, when told that there would still be time sufficient to give the French a drubbing; and this idea made every man spring out with a fresh supply of ardour that carried them right through. 100 ADVENTURES OF CHAPTER VI. On the 12th of January the 1st brigade, under General Lord William Bentinck, marched into Corunna. Proceeding along the main street, by the harbour side, the 50th was halted hi front of a large convent, near the citadel, where in a short time the regiment was quartered. After such a protracted course of hard service, and ceaseless marching, the quietness of even a temporary rest was a luxury most highly valued; although we knew not at what moment we might be called again into the field. While we were stationed here, the great magazine of powder, situated about three miles CAPTAIN PATTERSON. lOl off, was blown into the air, with such an awful explosion, that the sound thereof reached the distant mountains, and shook, as if by some volcanic agency, the buildings of the town. We were not prepared for the event, which took place at an early hour, and while a few of us were seated around our canteens at break fast, in one of the convent rooms. Suddenly a violent concussion was felt, and then a thun dering noise was heard, that made the ancient fabric reel, and tremble on its base, and rattled the tiles and shingle of the spacious roof about our ears. We were amazed, I may almost say horror-struck, beyond expression, and a num ber of confused ideas rapidly crossed our minds ; some declared it was an earthquake, others, that the enemy's cannon were battering at the walls; no one guessed at the real cause. In a state of consternation, expecting that a second peal would annihilate our tenement, and bury us in its ruins, we made a rush for the door way, where we met the Adjutant, who explained to us the whole affair; and this turmoil of fire and gunpowder died away in smoke. 102 ADVENTURES OF On the 15th, our brigade marched out of Corunna, and going about two miles from the gates, was drawn up in position upon the ex tremity of a chain of heights, extending in a semicircular form towards the North. This movement was made in consequence of the de cision of Sir John Moore to give the enemy battle; for, the transports not having come round from Vigo, (into which port they had been blown by contrary winds), he determined to make one grand effort, and maintain the honour of the British army. It would thus be seen that, however irregular his troops had been, upon a difficult march, they were well prepared to meet the foe; and that their high character for steadiness, as well as courage, would never fail when called upon in the hour of danger; proving at the same time, that in the cause of England, " every man would do his duty." Sir John Moore himself, almost worn out by constant anxiety, arising from various unfore seen causes, was yet endued with mental force as strong as ever; and, abundant in resources, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 103 he never lost that coolness and self-possession which availed him so much. Possessing great humanity, he felt deeply for the dreadful suffer ings of his men, and in his exertions to allevi ate them he was unremitting. Many times have I seen him go about the fines, from one encampment to another, wrapped up in his mihtary cloak, without parade or ostentation, in order that he might personally inspect the condition of the troops, and as far as in his power lay afford them relief, and add to their comforts. His position, as chief of the army, was one of much difficulty; and his energies were so greatly paralysed by the interference of pro fessing friends, and the false intelligence of his real enemies, that it appears miraculous how he ever brought the forces through. His great perseverance, intrepid spirit, and warlike talent, enabled him to overcome those trials which would have broken down another man. Let those who have calumniated his name be for ever silent, when they reflect on that devoted- ness pf conduct, by which, in the moment of 104 ADVENTURES OF peril, he preserved untarnished the fame of Britain's sons, falling himself nobly for their glory, and by their side, in the hour of victory. The brigade was formed on the crest of the hill, with uneven ground in front, between which and the enemy's position lay a deep and broken ravine, interspersed with vines and brushwood, and traversed in various directions by numerous enclosures and narrow lanes, inclining towards the head of the precipice. Midway between the place where the 50th stood and the opposite hill was situated the village of Elvina, consisting of a few poor straggling hovels, with a chapel in the centre, and surrounded with fragments of rock, stone Walls, hedges, and close winding passages. The whole French army, under Marshal Soult, occupied a parallel range to that upon which ours was posted, more elevated and consider ably more extensive. The troops, being stationed in the alignement pointed out, commenced the usual operations of the camp, and were, from right to left, in high spirits at the prpspept pf giving the CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 105 French an airing, in return for their marked attention towards us, for the last three weeks, and by way of making some amends for all the trouble we must have oaused them. For some days back, it had been perceived that immense bodies were assembling, and the heights upon which they halted were literally darkened by their increasing oolumns. The continual beating of their drums, (without whioh their men can never stir), the noisy words of command, and the din of their ammunition waggons, with the rolling of their gun-oarriages, rung perpetually in our ears from the moment that we arrived upon the field. The French, on every occasion, make an excessive display, with much of loud and empty sound, and at all times, in action, they put forth such frantic and discordant yells, and raise so much useless clamour, that the report of cannon is often scarcely greater. The morning of the 16th opened with the usual routine of duty, the same exciting work presented itself, the contending parties with eager attention observing each other's manoeu vres. — The weather was eloudy ; but towards f 5 106 ADVENTURES OF noon the sun shone out, and it continued fine during the rest of this eventful day. An extraordinary stir and commotion was noticed, about 2 P. M. in the enemy's camp, after both armies had dined. From the oppo site fines, numerous light troops were seen advancing in the direction of our piquets, which had been previously reinforced, and this movement was followed by a general attack upon the entire chain of outposts. Our soldiers, deploying into line, occupied their allotted station. — Being the junior corps, the 50th was in the centre of the brigade, flanked by the King's Own, and 42nd High landers ; in company with such men, the Black Cuffs could not fail, and they were proud, and justly too, of being enrolled with those fine regiments. Sir John Moore was quickly on the spot, and with the experienced mind of an old and skil ful warrior, he gave the necessary orders to the several officers of his army holding command. The staff were then dispersed, and flying in all directions with those orders to the various CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 107 divisions, the whole of which in a very short space of time were standing to their arms. It was about 3 o'clock when the light troops advanced in multitudes against our line; rapidly descending the hill they opened a brisk dis charge from their rifles upon our piquets, that lined the enclosures throughout the wide extent of the ravine. It was very polite of the French men to allow us time to get our dinners, although it will appear that they had not finished their own repast; however, to make up for this mistake, we helped them to a desert of forced meat balls, which, composed as they were of indigestible materials, formed a con siderable portion of this day's bill of fare. — As soon as matters began to wear a serious aspect, the locks and flints were examined, caps tied on, and other preparatory measures taken for the deadly strife. For the purpose of covering his forward movements, a heavy cannonade was poured down by the enemy from a masked battery on the elevated ridge. By this plunging fire our ranks were much thinned, and the round shot, 108 ADVENTURES OF booming on every side, scattered about the splinters, sand, and stones, that fell in showers upon our heads.-^Pending the operations, a general assault was made upon our left, from whence the music of artiUery sounded loud and incessant. Perceiving, by the strong fire, that a French corps was pushing through the hollows, evi dently with the view of turning our right flank, Colonel Wyneh, of the 4th, threw back some companies of that regiment, forming an obtuse angle with the line ; which effectually prevent ed the enemy froni making any further efforts in that quarter. While this was going on, a regiment of Guards was brought up in re-* serve, and posted at the rear of our brigade. The piquets being now thrown back, from the weight of fire, our men were ordered to advance to their support. Major Napier, in front of the 50th, gave the word, cheering as he led boldly forward. Passing the enclosure, and clearing all before them in superior style, they entered the village of Elvina, which was instantly carried at the point of the bayonet, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 109 and pressing still onwards, under an awful blaze, they made for the summit of the heights. Meanwhile, the light infantry, an inflexible and stubborn band, with Captain Harrison at their head, furiously charged across the broken ground, and bearing away all opposition, took lodgment in the rocks above. The hamlet being at length surrounded, its occupants rushed pell-mell into every hole and corner they could findw A number of these heroes, having ensconsed themselves within the chapel, began to amuse themselves by firing from the windows, roof, and belfry, at the soldiers. Observing their murderous design, Captain Wilham Clunes with cool and determined bravery marched his company to attack them, and having, with all due ceremony, introduced his grenadiers to their acquaintance, the power ful fellows would instantly have demolished the chapel, in order to eject the congregation therein assembled, had they not been hindered by their leader, who, with the greatest sang froid imaginable, took his stand by the portal pf the edifice, and, grasping an Indian cane pf 110 ADVENTURES OF stout dimensions, threatened destruction to the inmates, if they did not discontinue their ball practice and surrender, to a man. Astounded by the Stentor-like tone in which this notice to quit was uttered by the huge Northern, the garrison resolved at all hazards to evacuate the premises, and, accordingly, with a desperate rush, they sallied out amongst the flankers. Many were slain upon the spot, or taken, Clunes and his party collecting a pretty fair specimen of their afternoon's work.. If the ludicrous could have been thought of at such a moment, the strange and extraordinary scene was enough to excite the mirthful facul ties of a philosopher. The contrast between the tall and stalwart grenadier and the diminu tive Frenchmen was truly ridiculous ; and the manner in which this gigantic son of Mars turned out the warriors of Napoleon, without once drawing a sword, and while shot was flying as thick as hail, was a sight well remem bered by those who were present on that day.* • Clunes was many years in the 50th, having been pre sent with them iq all their campaigns up to this period. He CAPTAIN PATTERSON. Ill Our battalion companies fought like lions, and pouring rapidly through the village upset the kettles and cooking apparatus, which were in full work throughout the streets. The sa voury stews, broths and fricassees, were put hors de combat, and small was the number of the meagre combatants who returned to claim a portion of the half dressed fare. Having suc ceeded in forcing every barrier, and cutting our way through the enemy at every point, the. main body of the regiment pressed on to the higher ground ; " forward, forward to the hill !" was now the cry. Clambering up the steep and craggy ascent, emboldened by the example of their officers, the soldiers were was one of the finest looking grenadiers in the British army ; tall in stature, muscular in frame, with a countenance expres sive of the cool and determined soldjer. His bravery at Co runna called forth theapprobation of the Commander-in chief, by whom he was immediately promoted to a majority in the 64th. After serving in that regiment for a considerable lapse of time, he sold out, and returned to his native country. He did not long survive, to enjoy the qui,et of domestic life. His death was much regretted by the few remaining veterans of th e SOth, who had been his companions in the field, and his name stands high in the records of that corps. 112 ADVENTURES QF mowed down unmercifully by continuous vol leys from the crest of the mountain, almost threatening to annihilate our ranks. The assailants were not far distant at this time from the brow of the impending rock, which, bristling with bayonets, seemed to frown in defiance upon the enterprise. But, although the dangerous attempt to crown the eminence appeared to resemble a forlorn hope, Major Napier, with determined boldness, resolved to carry, by a coup-de-main, the enemy's strong hold ; waving, therefore, his sabre in the air, he loudly called upon his men to follow. — His enthusiastic spirit had urged him on, beyond the foremost of the soldiers, when he fell, se verely wounded, and, before we could approach to rescue him, he was borne off speedily to the enemy's lines.* * Soult behaved in a noble and disinterested manner to* wards Major Napier. As soon as it was discovered that his prisoner was wounded, he ordered that he should be conveyed within the lines, and receive the attendance of the most skilful surgeon in the camp. He likewise gave directions, that he should be provided with every comfort that it was possible to obtain. To complete the measure of his liberality and kind- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 113 About this period, the right centre, forcing through the enclosures and lanes beyond the- village, was exposed to a raking fire, and in consequence was most severely handled, several officers and men being killed.— Among the former was the Honorable Major Stanhope, who received a musket ball in the chest, and expired without a struggle. He was a man of dignified appearance, reserved in his deportment, but withal a zealous officer. Having joined the regiment at the outset of this campaign, his career was brief, though splendid. The same round of musketry that caused the death of Stanhope, proved fatal to both the officers of the colours, Ensigns Moore and Stewart ; the former survived but to arrive in England, the latter never spoke. They were promising young men, and much regretted by every ness, he allowed the Major, as soon as he was perfectly restored to health, to return to England, on parole, in order that an ex change might be effected with a Field Officer of the French army. This act was of itself enough to stamp the character of the Marshal, and was worthy of a general, than whom one more talented or brave never fought the battles of his country. 114 ADVENTURES OF member of the corps. Among the slain were also Lieutenant John Napper Wilson, of the Light Company. Poor Moore, my esteemed friend and com panion, had all along a presentiment of his fate; and talked of it as an event inevitably to hap pen in the first battle. This sad foreboding, from which I could not rally him, never for a moment preyed upon his mind, which was always cheerful and contented. * * Moore died at Haslar hospital, Gosport, after lingering for several weeks. The ball having penetrated his lungs, there was no possible hope of his recovery. His father was a clergyman in the North of Ireland, who had lost other sons in the service of his country. Ensign Stewart was a quiet and amiable lad, nephew to Colonel Stewart of the 2nd battalion. His death was instan taneous, the regimental colour, which he carried, immediately fell across his body, and was picked up by Serjeant McKie, who had scarcely delivered his charge to the officer, ordered for that purpose, when he himself received a mortal wound. Wilson, (who was before wounded at Vimeiro,) was an Irishman, and had been some years in the regiment. At the moment when these officers fell, we were passing, thickly crowded, through a lane enclosed with loose stone walls, and the fire, to which we were sadly exposed, raked us most unmercifully. The colours, with the officers around them, formed a conspicuous mark, against which, with deadly aim, a fatal shower of bullets was discharged. It was such hot work, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 115 Our ammunition being expended, seventy rounds per man having been already fired, and all our efforts being unavailing against such fearful odds, orders were given for us to retire; and, on being relieved by the Guards, the troops of the 1st Brigade fell back, the shatter ed remnant of the 50th resuming its place upon the hill, from which it had at the outset advanced. The remainder of the day and great part of the night was employed in preparations to em bark ; the huts were, however, occupied, the fires were kept burning, and every thing ar ranged so as to prevent the French from thinking that we intended to decamp without beat of drum. Soon after nightfall, and when the clash of arms was no longer heard, an interment of the dead took place, and many a poor fellow, who had a [few hours before been] full of life and that a man would be. inclined to give himself a afyake or two, after all was over, in or4«r to ascertain whether his head was on his shoulders. 116 ADVENTURES OF strength, was now deposited in his narrow bed. The remains of Major Stanhope were lowered to the grave by his brother officers and com rades, with their sashes. He had worn this day a suit of new uniform, and a pair of bright silver epaulets, in which, with his military cloak around him, upon the same hour as his lamented chief, he was consigned to an honor able tomb. While we were engaged in the performance of this melancholy duty, the Honorable Cap tain Stanhope of the Guards, aid-de-camp to Sir John Moore, rode up, directed by the torch light, to the mournful group. It was the first. intimation which he received of his brave re lation's fate. Dismounting, and overcome with grief, he took a " last farewell, and having ob tained his ring, together with a lock of hair, he tore himself hastily away from the heart rending scene. It was about 8 o'clock when the troops moved off, in perfect silence and good order. A strong piquet was left to keep the fires alive, and watch the enemy's operations. Pre- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 117 paring for a renewed attack upon our army on the following day, the French camp through out the night was in a state of tumult and noisy bustle. The outposts were not allowed much rest, being serenaded with the din of hammering up their platforms for the cannon, and sounding the note of preparation for the approaching tug of war. Little did Marshal Soult know that the bird had flown; for while he was busy in the midst of all this clamour, the British army was marching to Corunna, and by daylight was completely embarked. The spldiers left upon the hill, under the command of Captain Clunes, were withdrawn about an hour before the clear light of day, on the morning of the 17th; and taking, not reluct antly, a last farewell of the encampment, pro ceeded to the point of embarkation. The low- ness of the tide not admitting the boats to get near to the shore, the men were compelled to wade above the middle into the water previous to entering them; hence, so far as regarded this portion of the army, Napoleon's insolent 118 ADVENTURES OF and oft repeated threats, of driving the English into the sea, were undoubtedly realized. Missing their prey, which thus so cunningly slipped from their grasp, the French were mor tified in no small degree. Fighting Jack*, for once outwitted, revenged himself by ordering his bulldogs to the water side, where, being unable to proceed further, he had nothing else to do, but "grin horribly a ghastly smile," and shew his teeth. By way of a coup-de- grace, or parting gift, however, he gave us a royal salvo, which presented to his well- tried antagonists, (who were now on board), some very striking proofs of his affection, in the very tangible shape of twenty-four pound ers. But we were now beyond his reach, and he might therefore as well have saved his pow der and shot, which, with all their noise, did us httle injury, and only excited our laughter. ,' The piquets were embarked in the Mary, which was at anchor so near the beach, that This was the nickname given to Soult by the soldiers. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 119 for want of something better to do in the way of a httle morning sport, the Marshal made use of our old tub of a transport as a target, and practised so freely on it, with his heavy missives, that it was quite time for it to sheer off. Observing this uncivil conduct, the sea- captain, pale and terrified, with all the horror of a panic-struck man, cried out, " I'll lose my ship ! I'm ruined !" and running frantic to the bows, he seized upon an axe, and cut the cable. His vessel being thus allowed to swing round, she became unmanageable, and as it was blow ing a gale of wind at the time, the unfortunate Mary was driven upon the rocks. The passen gers and crew were saved. The troops, who thus narrowly escaped, were received by the Thomas brig, and the 50th regiment was taken on board the Ville de Paris of 1 10 guns. In the hurry of departing from the Mary, no one thought of going below deck for any of his baggage; to escape without delay from the battered vessel was the only object of our am bition; nor, indeed, could a visit to the cabin be safely attempted. Some, who were on deck 120 ADVENTURES OF with their bald pates uncovered, took flight without their beavers; thankful, as the round shots flew across the ship, to decamp with a whole skin. While we were scrambling into the boats, a ponderous box of dollars, the property of Captain Gaff, of the 76th, slipped from a sailor's hands; and as it splashed into the water, poor Gaff stood petrified with hor ror, and when it vanished from sight, he looked as if he would have plunged after it, to rescue the precious treasure. On the morning of the 18th of January the fleet got under way; and, after a favourable though boisterous passage, it arrived in Eng land on the 23rd. We were disembarked at Haslar, and marched from thence to Gosport, where we remained till the 9th of February, when we proceeded on our journey to Brabone Lees, in Kent. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 121 CHAPTER VII. On the 18th of February 1809, after a long and rather harassing march, the 1st Battalion of the 50th arrived at Braborne Lees in Kent, where the 2nd had been stationed for some time. Both having assembled and reunited, old friends, and companions in arms meeting once more, a general scene of festivity took place ; the young hands entertaining their more fortunate brethren, lately returned from the field of honour, joyous living and good cheer was the order of the day, and it might be added that conviviahty was the regulation for the night. 122 ADVENTURES OF The 68th and 85th Light Infantry being in the same barracks contributed in no small extent to those revelries, and each in succession most liberally displaying the generous hospital ities of the table, this round of dissipation was continued until a route was announced to us, for both battalions of the 50th to march forth with; the 1st for Ramsgate, and the 2nd for the town of Ashford, four miles distant. Having obtained my Lieutenancy previous to our return, and being consequently effective in the 2nd, I joined and marched with them-. Before proceeding further I must say a word or two about those friends we left behind.—.. The 85th, commanded by Lieutenant Colonel Cuyler, was a very smart regiment ; and the officers a gay set of light bobs, full of life and glee. I never saw a finer party of young men ; longing for military enterprise, they cared not in what quarter of the world it might be offered. To see those happy fellows seated round their mess table, mingled with the 50th, their delight ed guests, it would have been impossible to imagine that they were so soon to be disunited; CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 123 however so it was, and great was the pity that such was to be their lot ; they were in a short time after separated, and dispersed in various directions, being removed to other regiments and other destinations. More than a quarter of a century has since elapsed, in the course of which period I have met with a few of them, others have left the stage of life or retired from the service, while but small indeed is the rem nant of that gallant band, who once belonged to a Regiment which has distinguished itself in many a battle field, and than which there is not a better in the British army. The 68th was commanded by Lieutenant Colonel Johnston. The officers, more steady, perhaps, from being more experienced, than* their brother flankers, were a remarkably plea sant set of men, many of whom bore the ap- pearance of having seen some hard service. We found Ashford a very dull and uninterest ing place, the good people of which, not being particularly fond of military gentlemen, left us very much to ourselves, to cogitate as we might in our country quarters. We made this out G 2 124 ADVENTURES OF pretty well, however, with our regimental so ciety; and, having also some female campaign ers, we carried on the war happily enough, notwithstanding the churlish deportment of our civilized neighbours. The Ashfordians, though they looked shy upon us as a body, could, nevertheless, condescend to notice such of oUr young men as boasted a drop of noble blood, or were graced by the possession of some ancient name. A well-stocked purse was, moreover, a good introduction to their mahog any; and the fortunate hero, whose shoulders gloried in a pair of epaulets, or upon whose heels the spurs might dangle, had a most ex cellent chance of finding favour in their aristo cratic sight. The humble subs, contented with their barrack-room parties, were perhaps gain ers by the arrangement; for, although they could not boast of so much tinsel or cold dis play, there was among them much more social manners and generous liberality, while good fellowship and unaffected mirth'presided at their less splendid though far more cheerful board. In the barracks of Ashford, our companions CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 125 militant were the 91st Highlanders, and the Warwickshire Militia, both of which were in capital order for any duty ; the latter in parti cular, commanded by Colonel S. E. Steward, was a noble body of men, exemplary alike in appearance and discipline. So that any regi ment of the line might consider it an honour to receive volunteers from such a corps. The 91st, under Colonel Douglas, has always upheld the distinguished character for which these Northern warriors have been famed. In the early part of the succeeding month of May, the second battalion received their route for Reading Street, in Kent, where we got into quarters after a few days hard marching. The temporary barracks which we occupied were situated in the centre of a highly improved country, about three miles from the small town of Tenterden. The weather being delightful at this pleasant season, and our duty not being extremely severe, the time passed in a manner quite in unison with our wishes, and without any greater degree of suffering than what occa sionally arose from the hardship incident to a 126 ADVENTURES OF night campaign, upon a Bacchanalian ex pedition. As the invitations to the feast were but "few and far between," the dangers to be encountered on this service were by no means numerous or important. Deprived by our re tired circumstances of any extensive intercourse with the " gay and lively throng," we were getting somewhat rusticated, and might in time have become very quiet and harmless animals, had we been permitted so to remain. But our retirement was much too easy a mode of exist ence for gentlemen of the sword, and all our dreams of luxury and peace were soon disturb ed, by a sudden order from the higher powers, for several of our officers and non-commission ed officers to proceed with the utmost rapidity to the Isle of Wight, in order to join a battalion of detachments, which was then forming at Albany Barracks, and which was destined to compose a portion of the expedition under the Earl of Chatham. Being included in the num ber allotted for this service, I accompanied the following officers, who commenced their march for Portsmouth), on Sunday the 25 tb of June* CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 12? 1809 : Captain Henry Montgomery, Captain Edward Atkins, Lieutenant William Turner^ Lieutenant Richard Jones, and Lieutenant James Thomas. With high glee, and an elastic tone of spirits;, we entered upon our journey, equipped and fitted out in a most singular manner, for, such was the speed demanded on this pressing oc casion, that every kind of conveyance, inclu sive of coach, caravan, gig, and fish cart, was put in requisition for the more hasty removal of our martial band. Although there was something bordering on the ludicrous in the mode of our turn out, we cut, nevertheless, a, most formidable and imposing figure. With scarcely any breathing time, we pur sued our hurried course, the wonder-struck natives of the towns and hamlets through which we passed staring and gazing upon us, with open mouths, while with joyous look's we dashed along, as though his satanic majesty himself was at our heels. The officers were in and outside of coaches, as the case might be, while the Serjeants, corporals and drummers, 128 ADVENTURES OF mounted on vehicles of more humble preten sions, exhibited their pikes, fusils, and other weapons, stuck out of windows, doors and va rious similar openings. This strange and whimsical cavalcade was not unlike a moveable battering train, or a troop of warriors in ancient times, and bore no manner of resem blance to a party of modern heroes travelling genteelly, though not leisurely, on the King's highway. On arriving at Newport, in the Isle of Wight, we soon became acquainted with the several officers who were summoned on the same duty, and who belonged to different re giments remaining in England. The battahon of embodied detachments, which was composed of men from the depots of those corps on foreign service, amounted to at least a thou sand bayonets, and when completed for the field was a most effective and powerful body of soldiers. — With regard to costume, it was rather motley in appearance, from the many coloured facings displayed throughout the line ; and the officers wearing the plain round hat,, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 129 with a small feather stuck on one side like a marine, served to render still more apparent the diversity of style and fashion exhibited in our variegated ranks. Lieutenant Colonel the Honorable Basil Cochrane, our commandant, was a bold deter- — mined officer, and strict disciplinarian. He belonged to the 36th, in which he afterwards served in the Peninsular war, and having a natural genius for a military life, he, like his brother of nautical celebrity, was conspicuous on many occasions, during that hardfought contest. The arrangements being concluded, our medley battahon marched to West, Cowes, where it embarked, on the 15 th of July, on board of the Weymouth, armed en flute, Cap tain Trounce, and on the following day we sailed to Spithead, where, the troops being much crowded, some of them were removed to the Clarence Transport*. We steered for the * The night before we sailed from Cowes, a melancholy event took place ; Lieutenant Orr, of the 79th regiment, a fine spirited young roan, was drowned by some accident along, side the ship, as she lay at anchor. 130 ADVENTURES OF Downs under convoy, on the 25th of the same month. On the 31st, the whole fleet set sail with a fair wind, and beautifully clear wea ther, standing away to the Northward, in the direction of the Dutch coast.* * The undermentioned officers served with the battalion of embodied detaehmenis on the expedition to Walcheren. Commanding Lieut. Col. the Hon. Basil Cochrane, 86th regt. dead Major John Wardlaw, from 64th regiment. Major Gomm, from 6th foot. Major Alexander Petre, from 79th regiment. f Captain William Bains, from 6th regiment, killed. Captain Thompson, from 6th regiment, 4«ad. Captain Henry Balguy, from 36th regiment, Captain Nathaniel Farewell, from 36th regiment Captain Chaloner, from 86th regiment. Captain Henry Montgomery, from 50thregiment dead. Captain Edward Adkin, from SOth regiment. Captain Cooksey, from 79th regiment, dead. Captain Forbes, from 78th regiment. Captain Mc Pherson, from 78th regiment. Lieutenant M<= Queen, from 78th regiment. Lieutenant Munro, from 78th regiment. Adjutant Cameron, from 78th regiment, dead. Lieutenant Orr, from 79th regiment, drowned. Lieutenant Turner, from 50th regiment. Lieutenant Patterson, from 50th regiment.. Lieutenant Jones, from 50th regiment. + Killed on bis return while gallantly assisting in the defence of a Guernsey Packet, whieh was attacked by a French Privateer, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 131 On the 1st of August the troops commenced their debarkation, and the battalion of detachf ments landed near the village of Camp Vere in theisland of Walcheren, without any opposition. The French having taken post with their main body in the strongly fortified town of Flushing, were resolved to defend the place to the last extremity; the necessary preparations were therefore made for the attack of that cele brated fortress. Being in Sir Thomas Picton's division, we were among the number of those allotted for that duty, as well as for service in the trenches, we marched accordingly to the ground laid out for us before the works. Lieutenant Thomas, from 50th regiment. Ensign Bair, from 33rd regiment. Ensign Buck, from 33rd regiment. Lieutenant Tarleton, from 6th regiment. Lieutenant Addison, from 6th regiment. Lieutenant Jennings, from 6th regiment. Lieutenant Pinkney, from 36th regiment. Lieutenant Bone, from 36th regiment. Ensign Tunstal, from 3Sth regiment. Ensign Finlayson, from 22nd regiment. Ensign Clarke, from 22nd regiment. Ensign Beauclerk, from 33rd regiment. 132 ADVENTURES OF Constant occupation having rendered it im possible to keep a journal of the siege, and having no dependence upon memory, which in general proves a treacherous friend, I must abstain from any detail, and confine my re marks to a mere outline of those affairs in which our regiment was more immediately concerned. I may, however, he allowed briefly to remark, that the stirring events of this brief campaign were productive of wonderful excite^ ment among us ; and that the bombardment of the citadel and town, and the incidents that occurred on the night preceding the sur render, were of such awful grandeur as to baffle the most descriptive powers. On the morning after its fall, Flushing pre sented a thoroughly ruinous and desolate ap pearance, from the terrible effects of shot, shells and Congreve rockets. Almost every building had experienced their destructive power. Those which stood on ground a little raised, or high above the ramparts, together with the pubhc edifices and towers of the churches, were completely demolished. A CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 133 great portion of the town was reduced to ashes by the conflagrations arising from the flaming; rockets, which, penetrating whatever they came in contact with, carried fire and ruin in their train. The wretched and despairing in habitants, forced by the ceaseless cannonade to take refuge in their subterraneous chambers, were even there exposed to the falling shells ; for these, and other projectiles, descending with amazing velocity, and piercing every floor, finished their career by an explosion, no less fatal to the building than to the unfortunate people it contained. It was a fearful and me lancholy sight, to contemplate the scene, and was well calculated to fill the mind with senti ments of a most depressing nature. The shat tered and riddled dwellings, apparently reeling on their base, and cast nearly off their perpen dicular, seemed almost ready to come down with a tremendous crash. The half burnt and dilapidated remains of the more important fabricks, scorched by the fire, and blackened with smoke, lay heaped in dusky and spectral masses, truly monumental 134 ADVENTURES OP of their direful fate. The deserted and gloomy streets, lanes, and alleys, were overspread with the fragments of the battered walls, accumu lated rubbish, and dead bodies. The stagnant* foul and muddy canals, (by which the place is intersected), were covered with dark weeds, and on them floated the putrid remains of various animals, tainting with their pernicious odour the overheated and oppressive atmos phere. At every step we encountered the hagr gard, woebegone and famished aspect of starv- ing creatures, emerging from their dreary cells, or thinly scattered here and there, whose fu nereal countenances might have led one to fancy that they had lately escaped from the cold and cheerless tomb. These horrible sights, with many more such, enough to harrow up the soul, glared around us on all sides, through out the limits of this unhappy place, upon which misfortune may well be said to have set her seal. The troops of the besieging army were drawn up, while the French garrison passing in review, marched out with the honours of CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 135 war. This ceremony being ended, and the enemy having evacuated the fortress, we entered the gates, and took up our abode in the miser able and comfortless quarters allotted for our reception. The heat of the weather was suffocating ; and quite sufficient of itself to produce the sickness which broke out among our soldiers. Indeed the causes already alluded to in a little time induced a fever, or something bearing more resemblance to a plague, which led to a scene of dismay and horror, far exceeding that in which the besieged had been involved. Con tagion and disease, with all their attendant woes, quickly spread their baneful influence throghout our ranks. The poisonous exhal ations, and marsh miasmata from the loathsome waters of the canals, combined with the fervid and contaminated air, generated and extended that deadly endemic, to which so many of our troops engaged in this campaign became the victims. Men and officers were attacked in the most sudden and violent manner, while on •parade in good health, and were led away under 136 ADVENTURES OP the fatal illness from which they were soon re leased by the hand of death. So destructive were the ravages of this frightful pestilence that, before many days had elapsed, our numbers were much diminished, and scarcely enough of men could be found to perform the duties of the place. The hospitals were filled, and the convalescents were reduced to so low a state, that it was a considerable time before they were fit for any service. Leaving a subject upon which it is painful longer to dwell, it may be observed that affairs in a short time were restored to order, and the inhabitants, who remained, having ventured from their hiding places, and resumed their dwellings, and usual occupations, endeavoured as far as in their power to extend their kindness towards us. This was all they had to offer ; and, while sympathizing with them, we could not but lament, that so great a portion of un mitigated suffering should have become their lot, but such is the fortune of war. While our battalion was at Flushing the Officers frequently visited the town of Middler CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 137 burgh, the capital of the Island, and pleasantly situated in its centre. It is a clean and very beautiful place, surrounded by gardens and richly improved pleasure grounds, among which are interspersed many handsome build ings and cottages, laid out with a degree of taste and neatness, seldom to be found beyond the boundaries of England. With regard to the town it is perfection itself, free from every nuisance ; the houses are well built, the streets wide and regularly, paved. Within doors, the love for ornamental work, combined with ele gance, was forcibly evinced ; the painting, gilding, and other embellishments, were most conspicuous, the walls being lined, either with the coloured delft tiles or, in those of a higher class, encased with damask, silk, or velvet. Pier-glasses and mirrors, with costly frames, chandeliers, and pictures, enlivened their rooms, the furniture of which corresponded well with these. expensive decorations. To heighten the smart appearance of their streets, the newly painted shops were shewn off to the. best advantage; and, in those con- 138 ADVENTURES OF taining plate, or metal ware, the goods, polished and burnished up most highly, as they lay ex posed for sale, were dazzling to the eye, as well as tempting to the purse of the admiring pas senger. At that time, one of their annual fairs, continuing for a fortnight, was going on: this being the grand centre of attraction, the Dutchmen and their Frows, with the youthful damsels, were in numerous attendance, and seemed quite unconcerned, as if no calamity had happened to their principal sea-port. This circumstance furnished an additional proof of the proverbial apathy of these plodding islanders. They have here a few most extraordinary cus toms, among which may be ranked the mode of fitting up their sleeping establishment. On entering my chamber, at the Hotel in Middle- burgh, escorted by the fair though rotund fille de chambre, I perceived that the counterpane and blankets were absent without leave. On demanding of my rosy guide the cause of this, and explaining that, although the night was warm, I conceived this by much too cool a CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 139 manner of slumbering, she replied by point ing, with an arch and significant smile, to a mountain of feathers. Then, by raising one corner of the ponderous bale, she gave me to understand that my weary limbs were to repose between two of these enormous beds; after which she* departed with a heavy step, leaving me to ruminate upon the best mode of proceed ing. As I did not possess any of the heat- defying qualities of the incombustible Mon sieur Chabert, I chose the lesser of two evils, and decided upon occupying the outside place, on which I accordingly took up my station. On the 7th of September the corps of de tachments embarked at Flushing, and the fleet setting sail from the island of Walcheren, with a fair wind, arrived at Portsmouth on the 10th, where the troops were landed. Our battalion marched to Porchester Castle, from whence, after remaining a short time, the several drafts of which it was composed proceeded to Albany Barracks in the Isle of Wight, for the purpose of reassembling at their respective depots. Having joined my regiment at Ospringe, in 140 ADVENTURES OF Kent, I received leave of absence, and, passing the winter in the enjoyment of Irish hospitality, returned at the expiration of fonr months to the regiment, which was then quartered at Silver HiU barracks, in Sussex^ Here I found all my old companions pleasantly situated, and spending their time in a very social ^nd agree able manner, while carrying on the war in their country quarters. As the hum-drum round of daily occupation in barracks admits of no variety, it would be a waste of my read er's time and patience to enter into particulars of our peace campaigns. A little excitement and change of things was, however, soon brought about, by the unexpected arrival of our 1st battalion, lately employed on Lord Chatham's expedition ; which, under the com mand of Major Charles Hill, marched from Hastings on the 22nd of June. They were stationed here until the 10th of August, when they got the route for Lewes, from whence they departed, a second time to join the army in Spain. , The 2nd was ordered to East Bourne, where CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 141 they arrived on the 12th of November, 1810. In the temporary sheds, erected on the sandy beach near that town, we had excellent accom modation, and having, moreover, a good com mandant, we had nothing whatever to complain of. The 81st regiment, under Lieutenant Col. Milling, and the Flint Rifles, were stationed here, and their officers being a jovial, pleasant set of fellows, out rooms presented many a dis play of merriment and glee, during the brief space of our companionship. 142 ADVENTURES OF CHAPTER VIll* On the 22nd of May, 1811, an order came from the Horse Guards for a detachment to join the 1st battalion, then on its march from Lisbon to the frontiers of Portugal. The fol lowing officers were of our party : — Brevet Major Moncrieff, Captain Benjamin Rowe, Captain William Henderson, Lieutenant Geo. Bartley, Lieutenant William Crofton, Ensign Alexander Hay, Assistant Surgeon Browne. All were in high spirits at the prospect of going to the Peninsular army; and in this state of mind we embarked at Portsmouth on the CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 143 25th of the same month, on board of H. M. S. Romulus, commanded by Lord Balgonie. His Lordship was a Northern, and a fine athletic figure. He was fond of gymnastics, and joined the officers in their trips on shore, for the pur pose of enjoying any exercise in that way, for which they might be inclined. Being a great cricketer, he also formed a party to engage in that active sport. With a man of this descrip tion to command the ship, it may easily be imagined that our time on board was happily spent, and I may say with truth, that we all regretted the hour of separation from the Romulus. We put into Falmouth, on the 31st, owing to contrary winds, and the officers were per mitted to go on shore, where our enjoyment was soon interrupted by a change of wind, which springing up favourably our little con voy once more unfurled their sails ; and taking a farewell glance at the white cliffs of England, we soon found ourselves again buffetting the rough sea and restless waves of Biscay. After a prosperous voyage of* ten days, we entered 144 ADVENTURES OF the Tagus; and on the 25th of June the troops disembarked at Lisbon. They marched from thence on the 2nd of July, on their route to the main body of the allied army. At the end of a long and most fatiguing journey, we got into Abrantes on the 7thy where we found considerable delay in obtain ing quarters. After waiting in the streets for more than two hours, under a burning sun, and starving with hunger, we were supplied with billets upon houses totaUy destitute of furniture, which, together with the wretched state of the inhabitants, formed but an indiffe rent commencement to our campaign. We halted at this town during the ensuing, day, and employed our time in exploring the various bearings of the place. The houses are badly. built and old-fashioned, and, on the whole, Abrantes seems altogether destitute of those comforts which, from its aspect at first sight, one might be led to expect. We resumed our; march on the 9th, and, crossing the Tagus by a long wooden bridge, passed on without interruption, save by that which the forests on CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 115 onr way presented. The toad was in general Sandy, and full of stones, and as the sun got up We found the heat and dust intolerable ; owing to these impediments, we did not reach our destined quarters until 12 o'clock, when we entered Garvao, 18 miles from Abrantes. The French, Whose progress on the north of the Tagus was marked with cruelty and de solation, did not, fortunately for the people iii tne Alentejo, extend their wanderings in that direction ; this place, therefore, as well as many others, had escaped the ravages of an enemy so destructive, and been hitherto exempt from the miseries inflicted on a country that ¦has become the seat of war. Our detachment started from Garvao at 1 o'clock in the morning of the 10th, an early riour it must be admitted, but at this season the intensity of the heat precludes the possibil ity of marching at any -other ; we found it, besides, far more agreeable to make a moonlight journey when the air was cool and refreshing. We were in Gafete on the 9th, where I was lodged at the domicile of Louis Corteja, a ii 146 ADVENTURES OF wealthy farmer. The family of the worthy Don consisted of his wife, a plodding garrulous dame, and two lively daughters, together with a brace of female attendants. Serenissima Rosa, the eldest, was very pretty, but not gifted with the nimble-tongued accomplishments of her mother, on the contrary, she was rather stupid and forbidding in her manners; the other sister, Maria, although scantily furnished with beauty of form or feature, was, nevertheless, pleasing and agreeable ; nature thus keeping an equal balance between them. On a hard mattress, upon a stiU harder floor, (both of which had long been occupied by a colony of bugs,) I endured a sleepless night, and looked out impatiently for the return of day. We were woe fully tormented in this manner on our route ; for the French, wherever they appeared, car ried millions of the noxious vermin in their train, leaving a bountiful legacy to their suc cessors, and thus increasing tenfold the dirt and misery of their habitations. On the 11th we entered Portalegre. Our road, though passable, extended over a deserted CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 147 region, planted thinly with chesnut and olive trees, with pines at intervals. Portalegre is large, populous and well built : although not regularly fortified, it is capable, from the strong ground in its neighbourhood, with the aid of some works on the adjacent heights, of making much resistance, and might be rendered for midable to an enemy by some degree of skill combined Math labour, and by exertions that the Portuguese will never make. The approach leading through the North-west gate is ex tremely steep and difficult, causing to the men and baggage animals great fatigue. The rem nant of an ancient wall affords no defence whatever; and the large and ruinous arched passages serve but to give some evidence of its former importance. The public buildings are numerous. The grand cathedral in the Praca de St. Paulo, is the most remarkable; not only or the splendour of its interior, but also or the magnificent style of architecture ex hibited in the whole of the fabric. The houses are generally good, and similar to those of the other principal places through the country; but ii 2 148 ADVENTURES OF they have a cold and miserably unfurnished appearance within; they are, however, well calculated for a warm chmate, having spacious and lofty rooms, with unglazed windows, at all times open, and their tiled floors being occasi onally sprinkled with fresh water, an additional coolness is produced, acceptable to the parched and thirsty inmates. During our stay at Portalegre I could see no thing of, and consequently could form no opinion as to the merits of, the fair damsels of the place, so closely were they all immured, so hermetically sealed up, within the dark recesses of their habitations. Thanks to the watchful eyes of the Argus-looking duennas, under whom they were held in durance vile, we were not gratified by even a hasty glance, and thus we were utterly deprived of a pleasure, which would have afforded some consolation for the miseries and fatigues endured in the course of our rough and wearisome service. These fair and bewitching prisoners (for such I must suppose them to be,) were by no means willing inhabitants of their dismal chambers ; for as we CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 149 afterwards learned, they left no scheme untried to outwit their ancient keepers, and making many an amorous survey from between their rusty gratings, would gladly have been eman cipated by any of those heroes who paced beneath the windows, and by whom the various tricks and manoeuvres of the black eyed Signo- ritas were not altogether unperceived. Early on the morning of the 13th of July we marched from Portalegre, and passing through the viUages of Azunar and St. Alaya, arrived on the following day at. the heights of Torre de. Moro, ou the sides of which the 50th in brigade with the 7 1st and 92nd lay encamp ed. After unloading our mules, and making other arrangements, we found ourselves com fortably lodged in huts, composed of branches from the spreading oak, which grows luxuri antly on those hiUs ; our bed was formed of rushes from the banks of the Caja, a limpid stream winding along the boundaries of the wood. The wigwam, although not furnished with a marble slab, possessed the convenience of a stone table, and a chair of the same dura- 150 ADVENTURES OF ble material. In one corner, suspended from a twig, the" haversack, well supplied with dry biscuit, was dangling, and in another the flask of rum or wine, while the paniers, or canteen, amply stored with sundry articles of provender with which to comfort the weary frame, com pleted the appurtenances of the humble shed, and were sufficient for the wants of the warrior ensconced therein. On the aforesaid bed, of low pretensions, covered by the camlet cloak or blanket, with the leathern portmanteau for a piUow, the tired campaigner enjoyed repose as soundly as though he were provided with all the " appliances and means to boot" to be found within a palace. Having broken up from the fines of Torre de Moro, we proceeded to Elvas and Campo Mayor, on the frontiers, and from thence into the fertile district of the Alentejo, where, cantoned at Borba and Villa "Viciosa, we were ordered to remain during the extreme hot Weather of this season. We arrived at Borba on the 22nd of July, and were speedily estab lished in most excellent quarters, our men were CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 151 chiefly lodged in an old Franciscan convent, and the officers biUetted throughout the town. My billet was on the house of a rich ' padre,' who supplied generously all my wants. Borba, or "Villa Bourba, is a considerable place, though styled by the natives but a vil lage, and is distant from Elvas five leagues, and one from Villa Viciosa, where the other brigades of the 2nd division were quartered. It is situated in the midst of a fruitful and highly improved valley, and in the heart of a beautiful country, encompassed by hills, the summits and declivities of which were clothed with richly variegated and almost impenetrable woods, the scenery around being truly magni ficent. In the immediate neighbourhood are splendid groves of orange, lemon and fig trees, besides numerous gardens, producing every de scription of the most tempting and luscious fruits, natural to this delightful climate. The simple yet healthful manner in which the in habitants lived, was evident from the abundance' of those gardens, stocked profusely as they were with all the necessaries of subsistence. 152 ADVENTURES OF which a people who exist chiefly on vegetable diet could require. The most extensive and charming of those gardens is that of Don Juan de Almeida, who, being in the Brazils, has left the care of it to an old steward, from whom our officers had permission to ramble throughout its pleasant walks, whenever we might feel disposed, that way : often have we. enjoyed ourselves during the sultry hours, whtte perambulating those delicious grounds, beneath the verdant festoons, hanging from branch to branch, so closely interwoven that scarcely might a single ray of noonday sun penetrate the leafy canopy. At intervals, terminating the avenues, were white marble seats and alcoves, together with bowers., composed of shrubs and evergreens, while interspersed throughout this fairy land were numerous curiously wrought fountains, the cool waters of which were received into smooth, and highly polished marble reservoirs. Sundry carved figures, on pedestals, representing theiu ancient kings, were scattered among the sylvan. groves, seeming, as it were, to gaze with admi? CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 153 ration on the beauties of nature and art by which they were surrounded. The houses of Borba are weU built, and adapted in every way to repel the summer heat and winter cold; their floors are neatly tiled, and the doors and framework composed of solid oak. There are usually three or four extensive apartments, opening off each other, with a kitchen back wards. By means of large folding doors* thrown open in hot weather, a constant circu lation of fresh air passes through the building. In winter, the blast is excluded from their rooms by curtains appended to the doors ; and, although they have nafireplaces, the deficiency is well made up, by means of the brasseiro, a large circular cauldron well filled with burning charcoal, around which the Portuguese- dames get in congress, discussing the affairs of the nation, while they enjoy the genial tempera ture diffused by the heated but rather suffocat ing embers. Many religious buildings are to be found here; and among them the most remarkable is the. Nunnery of St. Clara; a stupendous mass H 5 154 ADVENTURES OF of masonry, affording, with its chapel and other appendages of monastic style, a good specimen of these saintly prisons. Enclosing this grave of all that is fair and lovely, is a wall above twenty feet in height, which gives the concern a fortified appearance, and renders escape impossible. The only mode of ingress is by means of a huge pair of folding doors, which in general are kept securely fastened by locks of ponderous dimensions. From the court yard the passage leads, by a long flight of stone steps, to the visiting rooms, to which strangers and friends of the imprisoned are ad mitted. In the centre of the thick and solid wall of this apartment is an opening about six feet square, furnished with a substantial iron grating, separating the aforesaid room from another, in which the Lady Abbess with her nuns may condescend to appear. The visitors being permitted the freedom of familiar con verse, a round of chattering and gossip soon commences, the gaiety of which, by no means. corresponding with vows of retirement from the world, would rather imply, on the part of CAPTAII* PATTERSON. 155 the novices, a desire to participate once more in its lately forsaken joys and pleasures. The Capuchin convent is a venerable looking pile, standing in the midst of a thick wood, near the town. Although dark and solitary with regard to aspect and situation, within its walls is collected as jolly a set of monks and friars as ever met together, who living, or rather merely existing, in a state of lazy indo lence, are supported by the deluded multitude^ and supplied most plentifully with an abund ance of good things. On visiting this tomb of fish, flesh, and fowl, soon after my arrival here, I found that the friars had concluded their 12 o'clock repast, and were preparing to take their usual siesta in the galleries, while the mendicants and pauper monks, below, were feasting on the remnants of the banquet left by the reverend fathers. From a spacious vaulted chamber I descended, by a narrow passage of stone steps, into the kitchen or re fectory, where presented to view were many indications of the luxurious and sensual manner in which those holy men mortify their living 156 ADVENTURES OP members.. Within a fireplace of immense ca pacity lay the expiring embers of the fagots- used in cooking their repast, and around were numerous stoves and ovens, the walls being gar nished with a multitude of culinary apparatus, and other articles for household service. In, the calderio, and kettles, were still the smoking remains of mutton., beef, and vegetables, to gether with an endless variety of savoury food, well flavoured with oil and garlick, the per fumes from which, though not by any means agreeable to, me, were snuffed up by nume rous hinds and paysanos, grinning with delight, as they peeped through the door on the tempt ing provender, while they stood in the grand hall of the convent. These half-starved varlets, together with a horde of begging friars, with ropes tied round their bodies, (that in many of them would have been more appropriate orna ments for their necks), were catted into the kitchen, by an old barefooted monk, habited ia a cloak and cowl, who did the duty of head cook to the fraternity. With an air of impor tance, and no sparing hand, he served out to CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 157 them potsfuU of the compound ; the poor wretches received the dole in cork vessels, and made a hearty meal, devouring it ravenously, while they squatted like so many hungry Turks at the porch of the establishment. On the first of September, 1811, we broke up from our cantonments at Borba, and com menced our march for Portalegre. Under a burning sun, and parched with thirst and heat, we arrived at Monteforte in the evening ; and on the following day once more entered Porta legre, where we took up our quarters near a large open space called the Praca de Rocio. The sufferings of the men were extreme during this route, for, loaded as they were, each with three days provisions, and sixty rounds of ball cartridge, together with a well fiUed knapsack, they were almost overcome ; and on arriving at the termination of this journey were, scarcely able to proceed to their aUotted billets. Many went into the hospital, and for a considerable time the regiment did not recover from the effects of that unusually long and harassing march. . The officers, most of whom walked, 158 ADVENTURES OF were likewise foundered, and the sick report was for several weeks after filled with their names. Ensign Alexander Hay, a very pro-* mising young man, who had joined at Torre de Moro, with the detachment last come out, was attacked by fever, in consequence of drinking incautiously of cold water whue under the in fluence of excessive heat, and; he died in a few days, sincerely regretted by his companions and brother soMiers. Our stay at Portalegre was unmarked by any extraordinary event. The miserable quarters in which the 50th was condemned to pass the winter months, were rather calculated to dimi nish our zeal for military life, while on the other hand, their attractions being so slight, our ardour to embark in some active business was rather encreased than otherwise. We had not, indeed, been exactly placed so as to en-=. counter all the inclemency of the weather, but we had indisputably undergone a tolerably rough seasoning while stationed there. My quarters were at the house of Donna Elvira, an ancient maiden, who had counted at least fifty CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 159 winters, her forbidding aspect might lead one to presume that no small portion of the murky gloom of those winters had been imparted to her visage;, which frowned in a darkened scowl upon her ill-fated guest. A dilapidated hovel was the tenement of this famed sybil, and scanty indeed was the accommodation afforded within its shattered waUs ; like those in the suburbs of all Portuguese towns, it was fraught with poverty ; and, a& if to harmonize more with its dingy patrona, all the appendages con tained therein were of broken, filt.hvj and crumbling materials, I was introduced by the aforesaid hostess into a chamber of sadness, without the vestige of any thing in the shape of furniture to gar nish its interior; with the exception of two broken chairs, and a ricketty table, as venerable as their proprietor, tottering upon three legs, gnawed into holes by vermin, hordes of which had long maintained undisturbed possession of the premises. After throwing an old colchao upon a floor unswept. for ages, the presiding 160 ADVENTURES OF , genius of the place departed slowly, muttering from her toothless jaws sundry uncouth sounds, which had very much the tone of maledictions. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 161 CHAPTER IX. Orders from Lord Wellington having arrived, General HiU was directed to proceed with h;s division towards Merida and Caeeres, in hopes of being able to surprise and intercept, a corps of the French army, under General Girard, as well as to re-open the communication between La Pena's Spanish troops and those of Cas tanos. The 2nd division marched accordingly, on the 22nd of October, from Portalegre and the out quarters. The 1st brigade, coasisting of the 50th, 7 1st, and 92nd, under Major General Howard, was; on the alarm post at an 162 ADVENTURES OF early hour; and by daylight we were pretty far on our route in the direction previously ordered. When the clouds and mist had cleared away, the ancient castle of Alegrete, placed on the summit of a barren chain of mountains was discernible. To our left extended a long range of heights, in some parts clothed with wood, and in others with verdant pasture, the bright ness of which gave the prospect a lively effect. The road was broken and uneven, and, in general, so bad, that our baggage animals could scarcely make their way. Towards noon the heaviest rain we had ever experienced set in, increasing as we pushed onwards against the storm, pelting most furiously, and blown into our faces through the clefts and openings of the mountain sides close to which we travelled. We were thoroughly wet to the skin, benumbed by the intense coldness of the cutting blast, and well nigh deprived of life and motion. However, supporting each other with hopes of better times, we jogged on amidst the ceaseless war of hail, wind and rain. We halted at the CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 163 village of Codiceira, just within the Spanish frontier, where a few of us darted into one of the best looking habitations we could see. There, after talcing up without ceremony a good position in the chimney corner, and before a blazing pile of fagots, we got rid of our well drenched garments; in exchange for which, cloaks and mantillas were supplied by the hands of a benevolent old dame, whose exer tions to administer comfort to our exhausted frames deserve to be recorded in the annals of her country. While we are enjoying the comforts of this snug place of refuge, I will take the opportu nity of saying a few words as to certain persons who seemed to think that we had no title to such a luxury. The dragoons sometimes acted towards the infantry in rather a cavalier man ner, and appeared to treat them as if they were quite an inferior order of beings. Whe ther it was because they had the honour of being a little more elevated from the ground, or that to their visage were appended the whisker and mustachio, and they talked their 164 ADVENTURES OF mother tongue in. a lisping style, it would be difficult to determine. It is at all events pretty certain, that many of them, recently imported from the purlieus of St. James's, assumed a great variety of airs, and graces, unbecoming- in the field, however beautiful they might have seemed in Bond Street, and which the rough and dirty work of war and fighting failed to do away with. I. can never forget the cpnduct; of one of theiu noble sprigs, whose regiment happened to arrive at the town when we were halted. It was a poor place after a hard march,, under bad weather and very heavy- rain, but we were glad to obtain any sort of shelter in the wretched village. We had scarcely entered, when our ears were saluted with the noise of cavalry, coming down the; street, and in. a shorty space we had a sample of dragooning, such as it would be vaui to look for even among the.' Cherokees. Three or four of us were seated round t-h» wide fireplace of a Spanish hearth, after taking off our well drenched jackets and accoutre^-. ments, and were enjoyrog the benefit, of a fine CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 165 blazing pile of fire, the very counterpart of that I have just described, and our servants were preparing for the culinary operations, when a loud hammering was heard at the door ©f the hovel, accompanied by the clanking of carbines, sabres, sabredashes, and other war like appurtenances. At the same moment, in ¦burst a tall, raw-boned trooper, (armed cap-a- pied, with a countenance well furnished with a most abundant crop, ia which the crows might have built their nest,) followed by two others, ¦carrying sundry hampers belonging to their masters. The intruder, who proved to be the officer commanding, gazed with awful stare upon the lodgers already in the house, and drawing himself up, as if, like Sampson, he were about to raise the building on his shoul ders, called, or rather growled out, in the tone of an angry mastiff, while he curled the points of his black mustachios, " these quarters are not too good for a Col — o — nel of Dra — goons — eh !" and suiting the action to the word, he flung his implements of war on a table close at hand, with a degree of violence that shook 166 ADVENTURES OF our frail tenement to its base. His claims to supremacy being intimated to us, we gathered up our traps, and bundled out indignantly, looking round, with no very gracious glances, at the statue in whose possession we quietly left the premises, to go in search of another billet. There was a want of courtesy and good feel ing here, not in any way consistent with high bearing, and these, with many other traits of character, produced a jealousy between us, so that no very cordial intimacy could take place ; nor was there much love wasted on either side. Engaged in one common cause, in duty on the same field together, all those ideas of superi ority should have been forgotten, and those heroes with spurs of at least half a yard in length, should have packed up aU their high opinions and fine notions, and sent them to the stores in England, there to be made use of at some future period. Such commodities never do for service, nor will they harmonise with camp or bivouac. They may pass current at home, where the pride of wealth, gold lace, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 167 and dress, go far to raise a man in public esti mation ; but lying in a wet ditch, or stretched by the side of a tree upon the ground, with a tattered cloak for covering, they are of little value. In that situation, a good blanket, and a well filled haversack, are worth all the lace, fringe, feathers, and aiguillettes in the British army. About this time I remember an officer joined our camp from England, with a canteen pro fusely stocked, as weU as a good kit. He was moreover a well dressed young man, apparently fresh from the hands of Dodd, of St. James's Street, equipped in garments that seemed as if they were pasted on his body, besides a grey frock coat, lined throughout with silk, and adorned with frogs and tasseUs in abundance. Such a set of poor unfortunate gypsies as we were must have been doubtless held in little estimation by our hero, who viewed with scorn our dingy costume, tarnished and tattered in so vile a manner that even a Jew broker or an Irish beggarman would have scarcely picked them up. We had however each of us a good 168 ADVENTURES OF blanket, (and some had two) that Was designed a double debt to pay^- " By night a ¦coverlet, A saddle cloth by day.'' Johnny Newcome, well scented, had a good stock of odours and essences for service in the field ; and instead of beef or rum, his hampers were amply stored with otto of roses, macassar oil, and other articles of sweet perfume. He glanced with horror at our ugly trim, but when he beheld the saddle cloth, he laughed outright, and caUed us, "blanket mer* chants." It was then cold and wintry weather, the rain occasionally came down in torrents, so that when the night set in, we found our friendly coverlet a most timely aid. The green-horn, who was certainly one of his majesty's hard bargains, eyed us most wistfully askance, and, shivering in his stays and broadcloth, envied the old stagers while he tried to crouch from the rain and nipping air Under any shelter he could find. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 169 One of our fellows, ¦ an admirable wag, peeped outfrom beneath his fleecy counterpane, and observing the plight of Master Superfine, who lay ensconced behind the stump of an old tree, he hallooed, and bellowed out so that the whole camp might hear him, "Halloo, old boy ! How do you like the blanket merchants now ?" The field was in an uproar at the joke, and the unfortunate recruit having no desire for war's alarms, of which he had seen quite enough to damp his fiery spirit, took himself away soon after, and the Blanketeers never had the plea sure of seeing his pretty face again. Having despatched these gentlemen, we will now pursue our march, in search of General Girard. Early in the morning, on the 23rd of October, the troops were assembled, and about day-light, it being clear and fine, we were on the road to Albuquerque. At a considerable distance, the celebrated castle appeared tower ing above the hills that constitute a branch of those which extend from the Sierra de Arron- ches, in Portugal, into the heart of Spanish Estrimadura. 170 ADVENTURES OF Having gained the heights, we entered the town at its base by a narrow causeway, paved with large stones. Albuquerque, which gave the title of Duke to a patriot general, is a populous, and good sized place, enclosed by lofty turreted waUs. Similar to others through out the countiy, the houses are flatroofed, and the streets narrow, close and dirty. Marching again on the 24th we passed through the thick woods bounding the Sierra, our route lying over a wide and level plain. It was late in the afternoon when we halted in a valley of broom, interspersed with cork and chesnut trees, beneath the spreading branches of which we took shelter for the night, and, wrapped up in warm cloaks and blankets, around huge bundles of burning cork, solaced our weary limbs after the labours of the day. The only habitation that we saw upon the desolate road, was a sort of Posada, a large tenement, standing on the brow of a steep hill, called La Caza de la Castilana. We con tinued during the whole of the following day, on the same line and at a late hour halted on CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 1^1 the top of a high and bleak promontory, ex posed to the rain, and all the miseries of a dismal bivouac; but so completely were we jaded, that we enjoyed good sleep without the -aid of rocking; our chamber was sheltered from the northern blast by large bushes of thick broom. Travelling for the remainder of the night, we arrived on the morning of the 26th at Malpartida, a small straggling village, in the midst of barren grounds, with a most abun dant crop of stones. The inhabitants appeared to be decent and weU clad ; the women -were goodlooking, with ruddy cheeks, and the full glow of health. A number of buxom wenches, with stout rotundity of limbs, were seated at the door of their humble mansions on our ap proach; most of whom were employed in knit ting, and seemed, by the eager glance of their keen black eyes, to enjoy the novel dress and martial bearing of our soldiers. These fair ones were clothed in many colours, their bodies in jackets of brown cloth, and petticoats to match, of sparing length, thereby exposing to the rude and vulgar gaze of man i 2 172 ADVENTURES OF their well formed pedestals. • Those were en cased in blue stockings with red clocks, and, to complete this part of their attire, well polished shoes with brass clasps were appendages of which they were not a little vain. The man- tula of blue or yellow, gracefully thrown across the shoulders, and a profusion of rich dark hair, neatly tied with various ribbons, imparted to the figure an air of peculiar liveliness and interest. We started from Malpartida betimes on the 27th. The rain again poured down on us with violence, and throughout the day there was but httle intermission. We rested in a field, near the viUage of San Antonio, under a most inclement and desperate night, without the means of cover, or any refuge from the weather. Fires were not permitted, lest the enemy should discover our movements, and, as it was intended to come upon them unawares, we travelled without the slightest noise, the most rigid silence being preserved in all our movements. Before daylight we were drawn up in the neighbourhood of Arroyo del Molino. This CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 173 place lies on the borders of a wide forest, ex-, tending along the base of the. Sierra de Mon- tanches, and was scarcely visible above the trees, the church-spire alone pointing out its retired and lonely situation, beneath the ad jacent hiUs. As the mist, by which the distant Sierra was. mantled, graduaUy withdrew? we discovered that the French troops were, at that hour, quietly enough lodged in the town. Little dreaming of the near vicinity of such unwel come visitors, they were in the fuU enjoyment of their slumbers; and, as they had made no( arrangement to , guard against surprise, our. unlooked for arrival threw them into the ut most consternation. . The 1st brigade halted on some rising ground, on the road leading to the viUage, into which the 7 1st Light Infantry was promptly despatched to pay their respects, as well as to assist Monsieur in the adjustment of his toilet. Advancing cautiously in double quick time towards the streets, without noise or sound of bugle, the light bobs soon gained possession of 174 ADVENTURES OF all the principal outlets, and although the alarm given by the enemy's pickets flew hke lightn ing throughout the cantonments, their cavalry alone, (many of whom were putting up their saddle girths), succeeded in making a good retreat before our men appeared. Their infan try, however, after starting from, their beds, out of which they had with so little ceremony been roused, hastened with all speed towards. the wood, and having extended themselves along its boundaries, a close and well directed fire was immediately opened on both sides; but the 7 1st in a Ettle time pressing in rapidly, followed by the 50th and 92nd, the Frenchmen gave way in all directions. Retiring across the plain, intothe depth of the forest, they flung away knapsacks, accoutrements, and other trappings, by which they were encumbered, making, as they vanished among the trees, such very good use of their legs, that we found it no easy matter to keep them within hail, or within the range of those missiles that were despatched to bring them to. WhUe those performances were going for* CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 175 ward, the 3rd brigade, together with some cavalry, made a rapid flank movement on the Merida road. In consequence of this, the fugitives became hemmed in, between our troops and the mountain ridge, on the left. Making a last and desperate effort, they tried to scramble up the rugged face of the precipice, but failing in their exertions, the principal number of their veterans fell into our hands, their leader Girard, with a few of his illfated. companions alone escaping across the steep and nearly impassable heights. Among the officers of rank who became prisoners was the Prince, d'Aremberg. The whole of their guns, bag gage, and commissariat, were left en thq field. A more complete coup-de-main was not made during the war; it was executed in a manner honourable alike to. the military skill and the courage of our justly respected Chief of Division, General Hfil, by whose talent and steady perseverance the briUiant achievement was planned, and carried to a successful termi nation, in spite of the obstacles opposed by a 176 ADVENTURES OF long march in the most inelement weather. The object of the expedition was attained in the fullest manner, and the consequences were most important to the prosperity of the suc ceeding campaign. The firing on all sides having ceased, and the prisoners being coUected under sufficient escort, preparatory to their final exit from the coast, our brigade proceeded in open column along the plain, on emerging from which we entered the high road to Merida, on the Gua- diana, passing on to the right of the lofty Sierra. In the woods about five leagues fur ther we encamped, and on the following day, the 29th of October, we marched into the old town of Merida, when on the 30th we halted. This ancient town had been completely plundered, and thrown into a state of ruin and desolation, by the frequent visits of the inva ders. The celebrated buildings, which for ages had stood secure from the ravages of any other hand than that of time, were now either parti ally dismantled, burned, or destroyed. The remains of a Roman amphitheatre, and those CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 177 of the Triumphal Arch, built by the Emperor Trajan, are still, however, in good preservation, and together with the numerous vestiges of an cient structure are weU deserving the attention of the antiquary. The convents, nunneries, and other religious edifices, were converted into barracks and sta bles for the French army, and therefore exhi bited nothing but naked walls, blackened and scorched by the fires made therein. The only place of worship that escaped the general wreck was the grand cathedral in the Plaza, which being a large unsightly pile, built without taste or uniformity, is not particularly orna mental to the town. Beyond the outskirts, are the ruins of an aqueduct, which bears upon its. venerable front evidence sufficient of past res-s pectabihty, and, though many centuries have rolled away since it was erected, several of its arches are still in a perfect state. On the road to Truxillo a new aqueduct has been built, which is not so light or weU finished as the old- one. The bridge across the Guadiana is. re markable for its great length and. solidity ; ife i 5 178 ADVENTURES OF has seventy-four arches, a great number of which are over a low marsh, on the banks of the river, dry in the summer months. The ex tent between each extremity is about eight- hundred yards. There are watch towers and seats along the battlements> and the whole structure, composed of a greyish stone, is weU cemented, and seems formed to stand fop as many more ages as it has already stood Passing through Montijo and Talavera de la Real, we arrived on the 1st of November at Campo Mayor, in Portugal, where we found good quarters and civfl inhabitants. The town is fortified, and is distant three leagues from Elvas, and three from. Badajos. Campo Mayor was attacked and taken about a year before by the French, who afterwards gave it up as a situation unworthy of the gar rison necessary to defend it. The houses are generally solid and well built, most of them had, however, been plundered and stripped of their interior workmanship and furniture, by their late visitors. — The streets are narrow, dirty, and iU-paved, but there are a number of CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 179 respectable and well supplied shops. The mar ket is good, and was wett stocked with the abun dant produce of the fertile country hy which it is surrounded. Campo Mayor was at one time one of the richest and most considerable towns in the Alentejo ; but since the period at which this part of Portugal became the immediate seat of war, and the French and British troops alter nately came into; possession of the place, it has suffered greatly; a number of its principal houses and public buildings having been burn-- ed, and its castle, citadel, and works, much injured by both armies. There is a curious charnel house in the main street, the waUs of which are composed entirely of human skulls, laid and cemented together in regular layers. The establishment has a most horrid, appear ance, as beheld through the bars of a small grating, and is rendered still more dismal by the pale glimmering light thrown around by a lamp suspended from the arched roof of the death-like sepulchre. The inhabitants of Campo, 180 . ADVENTURES OP Mayor evinced much joy on our arrival; our late successes encouraged them to receive us with the warmest welcome, which they testified by every possible demonstration of merriment and festivity. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 181 CHAPTER X. We remained at Campo Mayor until the 4th of November, and from thence marched to Portalegre and Albuquerque, at which latter town we took up our quarters on the 4th of March, 1812. The intervening period, spent at our old station in Portalegre, affording no event worthy of record, I pass on to describe some matters relative to our new cantonments, particularly as those from which we had so lately departed, and where we had remained for many a dreary month, have already been noticed quite as well as they deserve. 182 ADVENTURES OF The house in which I had the honour of be ing entertained with Cf good dry lodging," w as built after the same plan a& those usually ten anted by the lower orders, throughout this part of Spain ; its. interior premises consisting of a large paved space at the entrance, from which the ascent to a black-looking chamber, doing the duty of a kitchen, was by means of an irregular flight of stone steps.. The dingy apartment, scantily furnished, was enlightened, or rather the darkness of it made visible, by a small casement without glass ; and the premi ses were so badly roofed that numerous chinks through the loose and broken tiles served to render unnecessary the use of a. chimney, the smoke easily finding egress through them. Fortunately the climate here is generaUy mild, and hence the admission of fresh air is often desirable. The ground floor, besides the hall or space already mentioned, exhibited on pne side a small, roomj containing the sleeping appa ratus, and on the other an opening, by a huge door, into the dormitory of the quadrupeds, adjacent, to which were sundry holes and cor- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 183 ners, for wood, forage? and lumber at dis cretion. From Albuquerque we again departed, and after various marchings and counter-marchings, we were at last conducted to Dom Benito, where we arrived on the 22nd of March, hav ing previously halted for a few days at Al- mendralejo. Dom Benito is, a large town, with a popula tion of about, five-thousand souls, and is sit uated in the heart of a most productive country. I was billetted on the house of Don Diego Ramirez, whose family consisted of four fat good looking damsels, two children, and his spouse, a garrulous matron, who was very offi cious on this occasion. I was ushered into a handsome and well furnished chamber, where I was immediately introduced to my worthy patron, a fine jolly old don ; we seated ourselves round an ample brassiero, well stored with charcoal, and were soon engaged in noisy prat tle and gossip, with a fluency worthy of the most experienced adepts in the science. Ac- 184 ADVENTURES OF cording to custom, sundry good-humoured wenches attended at the sideboard, pouring out the limped fluid to those who were inclined to qualify for the Temperance Society. Supper being introduced, Don Diego presided in the style of a true Major Domo. The feast con sisted of a large dish of sattad and oil, with other ingredients ; sweet meats in abundance supplied the place of more nutritious food ; while, by way of interlude, sausages and garlick appeared, by which our olfactory nerves were agreeably regaled. These were followed by other varieties in the kickshaw line, and, in order to promote the hilarity of our carousals, wine of generous quality was freely served. The young senoras, too, were by no means shy of helping themselves to bumpers of that enlivening beverage, fitted out in glasses of dimensions similar to our English tumblers. One of the damsels, named Margaritta, enter tained the company with a few pleasant songs on the guitar, accompanied by the voice of her sister Franeisca, while Dolores, a pretty little girl with black eyes, danced a bolero, twirling CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 185 the castanets in a most bewitching style, to the delight and admiration of the joyous circle. ¦ The Spaniards seem, at all times, to have a soul for music, and chiefly do they love the plaintive strain, as sung by the peasant girls in their enchanting manner. They are extremely fond of the Scotch bagpipe, and when the Highland corps appeared among them, all ranks and ages run to their doors and windows to listen with rapture to their piper Sandy, while he played along the streets. Before the siege of Badajos commenced, the 2nd Division was ordered to march in the di rection of that garrison, for the purpose of forming a part of the corps of observation, destined to counteract any interruption to our plans, which might be threatened by the Duke of Dalmatia, who at this time lay with his army in the neighbourhood of Seville, in Andalusia. The Divisions of Generals Hill and Graham were accordingly encamped in the woods before Talavera de la Real, three leagues from Badajos, and on the left bank of the Guadiana. 186 ADVENTURES OF The fate of Badajos being decided, that for tress having been taken by storm, on the night of the 6th of April 1812, the 2nd Division re mained in bivouac for some days, during which time, accompanied by a brother officer, I ob tained permission to visit the scene of action. Passing through Talavera de la Real, we travel led all day, by the level road along the plain, and near the margin of the river. It was late before we arrived near the outworks. The evening was remarkably fine after the preced ing close and sultry day; as the air was calm and serene, the most awful stillness prevailed around, undisturbed save by the occasional croaking of frogs, and a murmuring sound from the battlements, on which the footsteps of the sentinel could almost be heard. In the neigh bourhood of the castle, likewise, att was still. The walls, so lately filled with combatants, frowned in dusky masses amidst the gloom. The darkness at length became so great, that it was not without some trouble that we ma naged to grope our Avay; we could make but a slow progress among the ruinous materiel pf CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 18? the siege, in consequence of our getting en tangled in the dismantled batteries, ditches, trenches, gun-carriages, and many other things scattered about wherever we ventured to pro ceed. The solitude of the desert now reigned in a place where many a gallant fellow had so recently fatten. While we were pressing on ward, we perceived a glimmering from the entrance of a tent, and finding that Lieutenant Reid, of the Engineers, was the inhabitant, we asked permission to rest under his canvass untU daylight; a request which he freely granted. We pursued our course next morn ing through the different approaches, and with difficulty gained the drawbridge, from whence, after having taken a hasty survey of the works, as well as the ground by which the columns of assault had made their first advance, we con tinued over the glacis and covered way towards the main breach. Here there was sufficient to account for the dreadful slaughter that took place ; for so precipitous was tbe ascent that, in the open day, without the slightest hinder- 188 ADVENTURES OF ance, the task of clambering up its front was by no means easy of performance. The work of storming this formidable breach was gallantly attempted by the 4th and light divisions, which marched boldly up the steep, but, owing to the numerous destructive means employed against them by the enemy, few were allowed to attain the summit of the dan gerous pass. A fire, close, and exterminating, was opened upon the troops, and various other deadly mis siles were showered incessantly upon the solid advancing mass, which was rendered distinctly visible by the glare of fire-balls and rockets. Bodies of the slain lay heaped about the ditch, sad and direful proofs of the fearful struggle on that well-remembered night. Having succeeded, by means of scrambling, though not without a fall or two, in arriving at the top, our further movement was impeded by several defenses, the principal of which was a wicked looking chevaux de frise, manufactured in a skilful way, being a stout cylindrical block CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 189 of timber, bristled with sharp pointed sword blades. Its extremities were mortised into the stonework of the parapet, by thick iron staples. This infernal machine was flanked by various cuts or hollows, scooped out of the revetement, on either side, from -whence well directed volleys of musketry were discharged, enfilading the whole range of approach, and proving most fatal to our men. StiU further, in support of them, were deep and impassable entrenchments, covered by loop holed walls, lined during the assault with valiant soldiers under the command of Phillippon himself. When British valour failed against such obsta cles it will easily be believed that they must have been formidable indeed. According to the statements made by those who witnessed the events that occurred on the surrender of the fortress, " the piUage and destruction that ensued, together with the riot and marauding, were such as to entail indelible disgrace upon the men who were concerned. A superficial outline is the most that could be given of the confusion that prevailed through- 190 ADVENTURES OF out the place. On all sides drunkenness and tumult appeared amidst the badly lighted streets, while soldiers, and followers of the camp, together with hordes of reckless viUains, revelling in plunder, were mingled in parties, shouting and hallooing with clamourous ton* gues. Such of the illfated and miserable in habitants, who had escaped the perils of the siege, were running to and fro, seeking for protection from the brutal attacks of an in furiated and savage multitude. Women and children were huddled together in groups, wndly staring, as they crouched into holes and corners, and cried loudly in despair for that assistance which it was impossible to render."* By many winding passages we made our way to the castle, the lofty waUs of which were so bravely stormed by the heroic Major Ridge of the 5 th and his handful of resolute followers. Nothing short of a miracle appears to have caused the success of these men ; for the rampart, which they were forced to scale by * From an eye witness. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 191 means of ladders much too short, was not only of tremendous height, but guarded at every point and embrasure by the most experienced veterans of the French army. The enterprise was indeed one of the most daring that ever was undertaken, and the execution of it evinced, in a remarkable manner, the coolness and bra very of those who were engaged.* Before Ave departed from the place, we caUed to see a brother officer, Lieut. McCarthy, who, while serving as Engineer, Avas severely wound ed in the assault.f Having enlivened the poor * Ensign Canch,ofthe5th Grenadiers, was the officer called on by Ridge to support him. Canch nobly answered the sum mons, and survived, but his gallant Major was slain. f McCarthy's conduct on this occasion is recorded in the life of the late Sir Thomas Picton, who commanded the 3rd Division. " Arrived in the ditch, the leading engineer, Lieut. McCar thy, 50th Regt. who had volunteered his services, found that the ladders had been laid upon the paling of the ditch. This brave officer finding that these palings had not yet been re moved, and that they formed a considerable barrier to the ad vance of the men, cried out—' Down with the palings !' and immediately applying his own hands to effect this, with the as sistance of a few others, he succeeded in forcing them down. Through this gap rushed Picton, followed by his men, but so 192 ADVENTURES OF fellow by our visit, we bade farewell to Badajos, and with feelings excited in no small degree by the effect of all that we had witnessed, Ave set forth from the gates of that fortress in rather a sorrowful tone of mind. In this wood Ave retraced our path along the banks of the Guadiana, and found the regiment encamped in the woods where we had left them posted. thick was the fire upon this point, that death seemed inevi table." — Life of Picton, vol. ii., p. 96. McCarthy's injury was a compound fracture of the thigh. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 193 CHAPTER XI. The troops broke up from the neighbourhood of the Guadiana about the 12th of AprU, and, after remaining at Almendralejo and other places, without the occurrence of any thing strange or interesting, the 1st brigade of the 2nd Division arrived at Truxillo, in Spain, on the 15 th of May. Orders having been given for the brigade to march, and possess itself of the forts and Pass of Almaraz, on the Tagus, we moved off, on the 16th, to accomplish the object of the expe dition. Our route was long and wearisome, s 194 ADVENTURES OF extending throughout the following night. By daybreak, on the morning of the 17th, we found ourselves on the declivity of a range of steep and craggy mountains, the broken and preci pitous sides of which we had been ascending for some hours before, by a narrow patlrway among the rocks, all trace of its windings being almost lost amidst the wilderness of heath and broom. The night was bleak and chilling, Avhile we were thus endeavouring to explore the passage, .that lay in the direction of the river, upon the banks of which the forts Avere situated. In consequence of the main road being commanded by the castle of Miravete, our further progress in that line was arrested, and we proceeded, by a similar path to that Avhich we had already travelled, into a still more wild and desolate region. With much toil and labour, we pursued our dark and lone some way, in some parts hardly better than a sheepwalk, which did not seem to have ever been trodden by human footsteps. The Sierra upon which we had the felicity of being perched had someAvhat of an Alpine CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 195 character — huge grey rocks and broken and desert hills forming throughout a dreary and inhospitable prospect. The silence of the barren Avaste was interrupted only by the foot steps of our troops, and the moaning sound of the wind, mingled with the screaming of sun dry birds of prey, Avhich seemed to reproach their intruders for breaking in upon their haunts, where for ages their race had lived se cure from the ruthless violence of man. On this mountain ridge we remained during the 17th, getting all in readiness for the delicate piece of work which was cut out for us. Pic kets and guards were thrown out upon the most commanding points, secured by whose vigilance Ave made all the requisite arrange ments for the intended assault. We moved off the alarm-post about night fall on the 18th, and continued our way across the mountain ridge in a direction unmarked by ¦ any distinguishable track. It was at first in tended to surprise the forts before daylight. The difficult nature of the road rendered it, hoAvever, impossible to effect this object, and k 2 196 ADVENTURES OF we had, in consequence, no alternative but to march boldly on. Having gained the open country, we Avere halted under cover of some rising ground, sloping doAvnwards to the fort. Here we waited for the rear of the column to move up, as well as for the signal to advance ; and having had some breathing time, we were soon in readiness for the word. The morning was clear and pleasant, and it continued fine throughout the day. The 50th regiment, commanded by Colonel Charles Stewart, flanked by five companies of the 71st, was ordered to storm Fort Napoleon; while the 92nd, with the remainder of the 7 1st, were to force the Tete du pont, and the works on the opposite banks of the river. The anxi ous moment at length arrived, when Lord HiU riding up to the 50th, with a coolness worthy of that distinguished man, gave orders for the assault. The word to advance was instantly hailed by the troops, while at the same time they made a rapid and steady movement to the front, and pressed onward towards the summit of the hill. The moment our caps appeared CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 197 we were saluted with a volley of round shot, canister and small arms ; by way of sample, or as anearnestof the reception we might expect* Nothing daunted, however, by this very rough treatment, our little columns stiU rushed on, though under such a gaUing shower, and the whole of the glacis was speedily covered by our men. The assault was directed on three faces of the battery ; the right -wing of the 50th being led on by Colonel Stewart, and the left by Major Harrison, the remaining column was commanded by Major Cother, of the 7lst, The moment was critical in the extreme, for at least thirteen pieces of cannon were playing away on us, while driving along in double quick time, the grape shot rattling among our bayonets, dealt out death and destruction through our already diminished ranks, the soldi ers falling in numbers right and left. " Onward ! forward to the ditch !" was now caUed out, as the storming party rapidly advanced, and with des perate resolution all hurried, under an inces sant raking fire, to the foot of the ramparts. Having attained the ground work of the 198 ADVENTURES OF ditch, and established a firm lodgment therein," \t soon became pretty clear, that, however Strong our fire-eating habits might be, we should find this spot by far too warm a berth for any very protracted residence, and we therefore commenced the most prompt and vigorous measures to escalade the walls ; but, the lad ders being unfortunately rather short, our ef forts were for some time fruitless. By this mis chance considerable havoc was occasioned ; for while Ave were endeavouring to raise the ladders, the French grenadiers, whose great bearskin caps and whiskered faces ornamented the breastwork overhead, hurled down upon us with ruthless vengeance an infinite variety of missiles. Anxi ous to dislodge such ugly customers, they were in no wise particular as to what they made use of for the purpose; rolling down fragments of rock, stones of huge dimensions, round shot, glass bottles, and many other articles in the smaU way, so that had our pates been com posed of adamantine stuff they could scarcely have resisted an avalanche so direful. In this situation, numbers of the men were killed ox CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 199, wounded, and when some of the most daring attempted to climb, they Avere either dispatched or tumbled over before they reached the summit. The highest angle of the wall, on the north east side, was furiously attacked by the 4th battahon company, whose leader, Captain Ro bert Chandler,* Avith a noble spirit, was first to ascend at this point. Waving his sword as he stood on the topmost rail of the ladder, he caUed on his men to push forward closely; and he then jumped on the ledge of the para pet ; but while cheering on his gaUant folloAv- ers he was blown to atoms, his shattered re-. mains lying extended on the slope of the ram-% part when the troops got in. Whilst the left wing was thus contending against superior numbers, and knocking their * Chandler was a a brave soldier, and a very active officer, and had served, for some years as Adjutant in the 31st Regiment. It was by merit alone that he obtained his company in the 50th. He fell justly lamented by all his companions in arms. Through the humane interference of Lord Hill, a liberal pension was granted to his destitute widow, and two children. 200 ADVENTURES OF heads literally upon stone walls, the grenadiers made forcible entrance on the right of the fort; carrying all before them. The Frenchmen were soon panic-struck, and by a general and simultaneous rush made for the opposite saUy port ; while the troops on the other flank, tak ing part in the performance, were completely routed and fled across the drawbridge, to the tune of Sauve qui peut. Prisoners to the amount of two hundred feU into our hands, and these fierce veterans, who had grinned so horribly upon us with their black and whiskered jaws, while they enter tained us in the ditch, were now downcast and woebegone, on finding this unlooked-for ter mination to the drama. Clarimont, their gallant chief, the Governor of the Fort, refused to surrender to our men, and being resolved to sell his life as dearly as he could, he placed his back against the round tower in the centre of the work, where with his sabre, he chopped away right and left, cut ting down any rash desperado who ventured to approach his weapon. At length Sergeant CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 201 Checker, of the 50th Lt. Company, a fine sol dier, exasperated by the stubborn obstinacy of the Frenchman, put an end to his existence with his halbert ; giving to the valiant governor the fate which, in his despair, he so resolutely courted. The brave Clairmont was buried at Merida, with military honours, his remains be ing attended by the whole garrison, and the officers in command there.* The Tete du pont, in like manner, feU be fore the bayonets of the 7lst and 92nd. The Gordon Highlanders, being rather fond of intro ducing the coldsteelupon aU occasions, made free to give their opponents a specimen of their abili ties in that line, and so completely did they settle the business, that we were scarcely lodged in Fort * Checker afterwards regretted that his hand should have given the fatal blow to so gallant an enemy. In consequence of his singular merits he became Sergeant Major of the regiment, and fell a victim to the yellow fever, in Jamaica. Many instances of signal bravery were displayed by our troops in storming Fort Napoleon, No one was more conspicuous on this occasion than Sergeant Major Lewis, of the 50th, who •was so desperately wounded that he died in a few hours after the Fort was takea. 202 ADVENTURES OF Napoleon, when they were at the watep side in fuU possession of their defences. Those of the enemy who had succeeded in escaping from us and crossing, let go the ropes on the opposite bank, leaving some of the boats to float at discretion down the stream, thus cutting off their fugitives, many of whom having crowded on the bridge found their career suddenly arrested, and fell into the rapid torrent, or into the clutches of the north erns which Avas quite as bad. The pontoons being quickly put to rights, the passage of the Tagus was soon accomplished, and the Scotchmen dashing forward Fort Ragusa was seized without ceremony ; the luckless garrison, together with the stragglers from Fort Napoleon, literally taking French leave, fled manfully and with astonishing speed on the high road to Almaraz.* The works were aU immediately dismantled, and a train of gunpowder was laid to blow up * The Commandant of Fort Ragusa was shot at Talavera de la Reyna. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 203 the fort, in doing which some mismanagement arose from a cause unknown, which was pro ductive of a fatal accident. After the fuse had been lighted, Lieut. Thril, of the German Artillery, rashly entered to examine the train, when the whole concern blew up with a most tremendous explosion, scattering the body of the unfortunate Thril in fragments to the four Avinds. The forlorn hope was at first led on by Lieut W. John Hemsworth of the 50th; but that officer being severely wounded in the head on the glacis^ the command was given to Lieut. Patrick Plunket, of the grenadiers, who escaped unhurt, and is noAv Captain in the 80th Regi ment. The whole storming party may be said to have been a forlorn hope, for aU Avere equally exposed to danger, aU entering nearly at the same time. From the nature of the perilous enterprise our loss in officers and men was necessarily great. Among those who were badly Avounded Avas Captain Robt. Fitzgerald Sandys who, aftersuffering for a considerable period, sunk at last a victim to its effects^ — Sandys was an 204 ADVENTURES OF' Irishman, and very deservedly esteemed; he had served in the Light Company during all the past campaigns, and I know of no man who was more sincerely regretted on any account. WhUe advancing in command of his skir mishers to cover the approach of the assailants, Captain Lewis Grant of the 7 1st was kiUed; he was an active intelligent young officer, and was spoken of very highly by his own regi ment. An affecting interview took place after the surrender of the fort, between two brothers, Laurence and Patrick Egan, who were so strongly attached that they were never content on separate duties — The eldest, Laurence, or Larry as his comrades called him, being a bat man, was consequently ordered to remain in charge of the baggage of his company, on the march of the Regiment. Prompted by a noble feeling, as weU as an ardent desire to be near his brother, this spirited young soldier begged so earnestly for leave to join and meet the enemy with his own companions, that he was at length permitted to do so. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 205 The brothers behaved gallantly on the occa sion, and maintained the character of Irishmen. Patrick was mortally wounded during the escalade, being one of the first to mount the ladder. Lying on the rampart in a most pain ful state, he lingered out for some hours. Poor Larry, in the joy of his heart on our success, ran to find out his brother, whom he soon dis covered extended in the agonies of death ! A more touching or affecting scene could not be witnessed, and, though it was in humble life, it was moving to the hearts of all around. Many who had long been callous to the horrors of a battle-field, and familiarized to the work of slaughter, could have wept over the deep sorrows of those truly brave and affectionate brothers. The mournful Larry never regained his spirits, and fell in one of the subsequent engagements. They were both excellent sol diers, having a good claim to this feeble re cord of their worth. Thus, within a short space of forty minutes from the first onset, after a sharp contest, in which the 50th Regiment alone had a hundred 206 ADVENTURES OF and fifty officers and men put hors de eombat, was this brilliant affair brought to a triumph ant close. Of the Avounded but few recovered, so severe were the injuries which they sus tained. The British might justly be proud of the exploit, as it is confessed, even by French historians, that " the Forts were susceptible of a long defence."* On the examination of the stores after the capture, Ave Avere highly pleased to find that the French had left us a valuable legacy. — Their magazines Avere Avell stocked, not only with powder and baU, but Avith an ample sup ply of provender, sufficient to rejoice the hearts of any half-starved warriors ; the quality, moreover, of these materials being such as to gratify the palate of the most fastidious gour mand. To a set of fellows in our sorry plight this Avas no very unpleasing windfaU, and * Total British loss in the affair; Killed — 1 Captain, 1 Lieutenant, 1 Sergeant apd 30 Rank and File. Wounded — 2 Captains, 6 Lieutenants, 4 Ensigns, 10 Sergeants, 1 Drummer and 117 Rank and File. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 207 fighting being aUowed at all times to be very hungry work, we proceeded, with appetites sharpened like our swords, on the work of de molition ; the lean and starving bullocks al lotted for our use being at the same time happy at the prospect of a respite from the sentence of being cut up for rations by the remorse less knife. Assembled on the esplanade, so lately the arena of our exploits, fragments of the dainty fare were dispensed with liberal hand, under the inspection of the quarter-mas ter ; and Avith a relish, that might have put a town councillor to the blush, we dispatched the vivres with as little ceremony as Ave had shoAvn to the original proprietors of the same ; nor Avere Ave by any means over nice, as to the mode in which our pic-nic repast Mas served or garnished. CoUected together in knots and parties, with the green sward for our table-cloth, for getful of the past, and careless about the fu ture, we feasted most sumptuously, drinking to our foes in their own generous wine, and 208 ADVENTURES OF wishing that, in future campaigns, our ad ventures might be terminated in an equaUy agreeable and fortunate manner. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 209 CHAPTER XII. We marched on the morning of the 20th of May, 1812, and on the 21st entered our old quarters at Truxillo. The journey was fatigu ing, but, as we returned by the main road, our sufferings were not by any means so great as they Avere on the former occasion. Truxillo is large and populous, and appears from the remains of its ancient buildings, castles, churches, and waUs, to have once been a place of considerable note, and one of the principal towns in this part of Spain. From 210 ADVENTURES OF the hill, on which it stands, there is a com manding view, even to the mountains of Miravete. The square is spacious and uniform, the houses built in the Moorish style, their upper compartments projecting, so as to form a range of handsome piazzas underneath, where all the most respectable shops are situated. The windows above, opening to the plaza, are furnished with handsomely ornamented veran das and balconies, in front of which are ap pended solid iron bars. The fair Senoras oc casionally display their charms at those win dows, during the cooler hours, decked out in holyday robes and gaiest attire, imparting a brilliancy of effect to their balconies which it would be impossible for the most costly works of art to rival. On the South side of the Square, the atten tion of the stranger is attracted to the splendid fabric, erected by the celebrated Pizarro, to commemorate the successes of his victorious arms in the Western hemisphere. It is large and solid, and of such ample dimensions that a regiment of French soldiers found space to CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 211 lodge therein. On the surface of the flat roof are several marble figures, designed, it is said, to represent the Peruvian princes and warriors who submitted to the Spanish chief, in his Avars against their nation. They remain, however, monumental of the barbarous cruelties exer cised towards a harmless people, by a merciless tyrant, AA'ho is to this day undeservedly held up to admiration in his native country. The principal amusements of this place are the buU-fights. Soon after our arrival there Avas one of those performances took place in the Plaza de Torres, to celebrate our late ex ploits. It was a .miserable attempt to repre sent those exhibitions as they were in former days. Two or three unfortunate bulls were driven, or rather tormented, into a circle formed in the Square; they were then goaded by a multitude of men and boys, until the animals became almost frantic; their tormentors, throw ing up hats, caps, cloaks, and sticks, while hooting and yelling forth the most abominable noises. Although this afforded us but little sport, it was a means of collecting a large as- 212 ADVENTURES OF semblage of spectators, fromall partsof the town and country, and the houses around the Square Avere filled; the doors and balconies, as well as the roofs, being croAvded with the delighted ama teurs. Numerous fair damsels were among them, dressed out in gaudy colours, attended by their duennas, to witness the barbarous entertainment. Amidst the cries, yells, and shouting of the peasants in the ring, one of the buUs, infuriated and lashed into rage, not only by his persecu tors in human form, but also by some ferocious mastiffs, would occasionally make a desperate rush in upon the mob of ruffians, and violently running down a fellow more daring than the others, would toss him up. with his horns seve ral yards in the air, to the inexpressible delight and admiration of the surrounding audience, AA"ho expressed their savage joy in loud and deafening acclamations; clapping their hands, and waving handkerchiefs and fans, by way of approbation of the inhuman spectacle. At intervals, the peasants paired off in the fan dango, or bolero, with some fair sAveetheart, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 213 putting themselves through the most ridicu lous antics, while accompanied by the music of an old cracked guitar, or broken-winded clari onet, performed on by some wretched artist. Truxillo must have been in the days of yore a formidable place ; rendered so, not only by its elevated site, but also by the nature of its defences, and a high wall, which in ancient times completely encompassed it, of which the gates alone remain. The country immediately around it is open, presenting but little ap pearance of any sort of verdure, but in the direction of Ahnaraz, there are thick and ex tensive forests, of oak and other trees. On the 12th of June we marched to Fuentes del Maestro, where I got into capital quarters, at the house of Don Diego Dias, which, though it had been occupied by French Dragoons, the Don made tolerably habitable, furnishing a good bed, in an old barrack of a room. It had formerly been the residence of a nobleman, but the constant thoroughfare of the French had long since caused its owner to quit the country, leaving at the mercy of the plundering 214 ADVENTURES OF creAv his property and his dwelling. The Avreck and havoc which were made upon his furniture, and the interior of the mansion, fully justified the fears of its original possessor. On the 1st of September, we again resumed our journey toAvards the interior ; and, march ing some hours before daylight, we arrived Avhen it became clear, at La Hava. Our road, for the most part, lay over a country thinly planted Avith olive trees, but producing nume rous fruitful Amines. On approaching La Hava, the distant spires of Don Benito became dis cernible, and, on passing two leagues further, appeared the mountain of Marcella, upon the highest part of Avhich stands the castle and village of Marcella. The former is an old for tified ruin, having a round tower in the centre, and the latter a poor miserable place, con sisting of a feAv Avretched hovels crowded together. Like all the small toAAns,in this part of Spain, Ave found La Hava a collection of insignificant habitations, throAvn into a groupe, AAithout or der or regularity, as if the place had suddenly CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 215 dropped from the clouds ; the chapel, as usual, in the centre, being the most prominent object in this confused assemblage of nondescript dwellings. We entered Don Benito on the 4th of Sep tember, and, as we had been formerly quartered there, the inhabitants were kind and hospitable. In this instance, as well as in every other, aa hen we had occasion to make the observation, the Spaniards proved themselves a generous and friendly people, evincing in every possible way, and by every mark of good-wUl, the pleasure they experienced not only in seeing strangers but on the return of those whom they had known before, and who had at other times enjoyed their hospitality. I was quartered at the house of Don Pedro Montenegro, a fat portly gentleman, who, with his family, exerted themselves to make my residence within their AAralls as agreeable as I could desire. During our stay the ceremony of a Spanish wedding was performed in my quarters, which, though not affording much that Avas calculated to enliven the company assembled, A\ras charac- 216 ADVENTURES OF teristic of the people, and their motives for entering into the holy state. Alonzo, the happy bridegroom, was a rosy cheeked comely boy of sixteen. His friends proposed him as a suitable match for Senora Maria Teresa, the daughter of my landlord, for the purpose of preventing his being liable to be called off to serve in the armies— married men being then exempt from the contributions required to fill^ up the ranks, all the youthful fellows in the neighbourhood espoused themselves in order to avoid the Junta's levies ; so that many con tracted an union at a very early age, or' when mere children, for fear of the war. — Our hero did not appear to be much interested about the matter ; young and simple, as he was, the passion of love was quite a stranger to his breast. His intended Mariceta, a fine girl of eighteen, was however of no such tempera ment, for having arrived at years of discretion she was better educated in att those sort of things, and consequently made herself as en gaging as possible in the eyes of her juvenile bridegroom. — They were seldom together be- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 217 fore their marriage; courtship seemed to be laid aside as a superfluous piece of business, and the whole affair of matrimony, being pre viously settled by the wiseacres of their fami lies, the poor devoted victims had nothing to do but just get on as they were commanded. The friends and acquaintances, consisting of a bevy of old and young of both sexes, toge- therAvith a moderate share ofclerigos, being-as sembled, Alonzo made his entree clothed in a capote, of materials warm enough to raise a flame within his frigid breast, if there was even an expiring ember there. His hair was tied up with ribbons, and a sash completed his attire. The fair bride, attended by her sister Catalina, soon came after, dressed in sable robes, that being the costume worn at all times on these occasions. The reverend priest followed, and without delay began to make his preparations for rivet- ting the chain, by reading out of a huge black book, by the light of a long wax taper. Hav ing muttered for some minutes, in a hottow tone scarcely audible, he joined their hands-, L 218 ADVENTURES OF then poured forth his last benediction, and so this important ceremony was concluded. Af ter the venerable Father had bestowed his blessing on the guests around, all immediately resumed their places, on low forms and chairs on either side of the room. The Patrona, to gether with her assistant deities, retired to an adjoining alcoba, where they commenced serv ing out refreshments, of att varieties, upon large plates : these were handed about by a couple of joUy, good-looking padres, who, as they offered them to the lovely senoritas, showed no small degree of gallantry, passing off compli ments and soft words, highly acceptable to their willing ears. Poor Alonzo, meanwhile, sat like Patience, and, though not smiling at grief, yet he looked veiy much as if he would rather be at home with his mother, than be brought to cut such a figure in the mummery. The bride, every now and then, modestly hid her face and blushes from the vulgar gaze, under a long black veil of the finest lace. Chocolate and cakes were handed round, and CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 219 the damsels pocketed the fragments, which they purloined without any remorse of conscience. About nine o'clock the company began to se parate, and this most stupid of' att stupid iwect- dings was finished by a general i salutation: on all sides, and by Alonzoy amidst the* smfleai and winks of the envious spinsters;,, going? off quietly to his father's, Avhdle his cara sposa re- mained at home in single blessedness,, to. -dream of happiness yet to. come. While we remained at Don Benito, the na tives vied with each other in their efforts to afford as much enjoyment as possible to, their guests. Balls and other festivities were- among the. many sources by which they endeavmaired to amuse us. The assemblies were usually heldj im the spacious apartment of a large -building, the re sidence of a marquis, and situated in the grand square. The fair and lively daughters of my host were regular attendants at the ball-room, and were escorted thither by a tall black' look ing man, Avho, in his official capacity of chape ron, on this and other occasions, took- the dam- l 2 220 ADVENTURES OF sels under his wing, and as he proceeded along collected a reinforcement of old and young ; his party, by the time of their arrival, having accu mulated to a motley crowd of votaries, including domestics and a train of followers : many of them under pretence of being brothers, friends or relations, intruded uninvited, pushing after the ladies without ceremony, to the no smaU annoyance of the respectable portion of the company. The women on those occasions make but few preparatory arrangements. After having merely plaited up the hair, or thrown a mantilla loosely across the neck and shoulders, and adorned the feet with a pair of white or yellow shoes, they sally forth in the same dress which they have Avorn during the day. We departed from Don Benito on the 13th of September, and passing over the plains of Medellin, forded the Guadiana about a league above the bridge. On the 14th we reached Villa Mercia. It was so very early when we got into the neighbourhood of this place, a place so wretched that we could scarcely get even a drop of water. The troops CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 221 halted on the open ground some distance from the viUage. The vestige of a single plant or tree was not to be seen on any side, and the dry stubble-fields yielded us no means of ob taining the comfort of a fire. Our chances for a breakfast were therefore but slight. After marching for the greater part of a very cold night, we all looked blue enough at daybreak, eyeing wistfully the country round for some thing to build our hopes upon ; but alas ! the interminable waste was to us as much a desert as the barren sands of Africa. When the arms were pUed the men threw off their packs, and seating themselves thereon, commenced a voy- : age of discovery in their haversacks, rummaging every hole and corner for sundry fragments, the residue of four days provender. The officers Avith hollow cheeks and cadaverous aspect, having gone to bed, (or rather to mach,) supperless, and being without the slightest chance of muffins or hot rolls, were ruminating on the evil day on which they went a soldiering. In the midst of this, some of the knowing hands, whUe prowling; about the camp, for a few sticks wherewithal 222 ADVENTURES OP toiboil a kettle, beheld an old, crazy and dis mantled buttock-cart, (ontthe retired .list) lying quietly on the field. As soon as the prize was seen, a general rush succeeded,' and, like a pack of hounds pouncing on an urrfortunate fox, they flew at the ill-fated remnant of the waggon, and without waiting to dissect, secundem artem, the subject before them, they tore it limb from limb, and the broken fragments were carried off in triumph by the ravenous crew. Soon there arose a thin curling smoke in va rious quarters, awfully distant from each other, and those lucky favourites of fortune, who got a splinter of the aforesaid vehicle, were quickly gladdened by a flame; meanwhile, the tin, wherein the Congo was infused, hung dangling on a ramrod, suspended by two bayonets stuck cunningly in the earth. The poor wretch, with a visage of at least a span in length, who fiuled in his attempts to share in the spoil of the waggon, scraped up the stubble, which, damp with heavy dew, baffled all his labour, and he was at last obliged, with his culinary vessel in one hand, and his canister in the CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 223 other, to wander from right to left, in order to beg a portion of some friendly blaze. Renewing our march on the following day* we continued on the road untU a late hour. — The face of the country, as far as the eye could reach, was an extended waste, devoid of any thing in the shape of tillage ; the plain, wide and boundless, interspersed with scattered rocks, with occasional patches of heath and broom, was quite as wild as any lover of ro mance could Avish. After some hours travel-* ling over this dreary road, its sameness was at length relieved by a view of the Sierra de San ta-Cruz, the highest pinnacle of which rises in the form of a pyramid, and has a most remark able-looking old castle, situated upon a lofty cliff near its western side. The main road from ViUa Mercia directed Us, after many turnings, to the base of those heights. Among the rocks even to the high-r est peak, the sheep and goats were browsing, and at intervals we observed the shepherds with their dogs, in places, where it would seem impossible that any human being could obtain 224: ADVENTURES OF a footing. In the grassy marshes below were large herds of oxen and other cattle grazing. — We. had an opportunity of having a nearer view of these shepherds, who descended from the steep acclivities, and we Avere astonished be yond measure at their ferocious aspect and sav age garb; one could not help comparing them, as they stood, with those of old, as described by an cient writers, when in simple dress, with crook: andpipe,the rustics tending their flocks in Area-, dian fields, charmed by soft and rural notes thft lovely damsels of the woods and plains. The Spanish guardian of the flock, from his war like- costume, his dark and bearded visage, seemed better adapted for a ruffian robber off the forest, or the ranks of a Guerilla Chief,, than a gentle warbler of simple love songs. These peasants were cloathed with coarse ma terials ; their inner garments were protected from the weather by pieces of sheep skin rudely joined, and they were armed with a dirk and an old fusil. On the 29th of September we departed from Guerindote, our route, leading over the. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 225 spacious plain that extended to the Tagus. Upon the green borders of that river we at length arrived, and before us, in the midst of splendid scenery, lay the far-famed City of Toledo. The inhabitants, on first beholding our approach, assembled in multitudes on the road, near the outskirts, where we had already halted. They pressed on to welcome us, while with loud huzzas and shouting they rent the air. We entered by the principal gate, and marched up to the Plaza Mayor, amidst joyous salutations, and the ringing of innumerable bells. The balconies around were literally crammed with a brilliant show of beauty, wav ing flags, handkerchiefs and ribbons; their delight on seeing the Enghsh soldiers, was expressed with unaffected gladness, and could we judge by this display of feeling, we might have flattered ourselves with at least having the people of this city for our friends. Toledo, from its situation on a semicircular' chain of rugged heights, has a broken and ir regular aspect; and, as the steep sides of the eminence descend precipitously to the TagUs, l 5 226 ADVENTURES OF many of the bufidings seem as it were impend ing over the banks of that river, which nearly surrounds the city walls. Across the stream are two sohd bridges, each having one arch of considerable span, and of dimensions corres^ pondent to the magnitude of the passage. The brief period of our stay permitted not of any minute inspection of various objects, weU deserving the traveUer's notice. We could therefore take but a hasty survey ; and in pass ing through the city, it was impossible to avoid admiring the beauty of many buildings, the names of which we knew not, nor had time to enquire. Having proceeded down the Catte del Caro- men, a long and handsome street, we found ourselves close to the grand cathedral, the finest perhaps in the kingdom. The utmost force of language could but faintly convey any idea of the magnificence of that building ; the grandeur of which far exceeded any thing we had hitherto beheld in this country, and was worthy of being honored by a far more minute inspection than we had time to bestow on it. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 227 The roof is supported by lofty piUars and fluted columns of marble, and composition in imitation thereof. The floor is composed of the same stone, dark, and highly polished. Approaching towards the centre aisle, we en countered a ragged looking cicerone, who vo lunteered to conduct us to the vault within which lay in state the anatomy of St. Ursula, a lady whose memory is highly reverenced by the people of Spain. We descended by a narrow flight, of stone steps, led on by the aforesaid genius, who, chuckling within him self at the idea of relieving the curious Inglezes of their loose cash, yet seeming wondroUs grave, brought us in a few moments to the door of the sepulchre. The skeleton of her ladyship lay very comfortably in a glass cage, and lest the venerable saint might feel rather solitary in this abode, a lamp was suspended from the vaulted roof of her bedchamber, to enliven her gloomy residence, as weU as to en able the visitors to examine her crumbling bones. Having rewarded the guide, we renewed our 228 ADVENTURES OF search for the numerous objects within this extraordinary and sacred pile, and while we were thus engaged we met the Secretary, who introduced us to his apartments, where we were much gratified by the sight of some rich and beautiful paintings, by which the walls were ornamented. Among the exhibitions of art, which hung within the court yard, those of the capture of Toledo, by the Spaniards from the Moors, and the grand procession of Charles the 4th were by far the finest in the Cathedral'. They were att executed by that inimitable artist Francisco Bayue. Having seen every thing worthy of observation within, we passed through- the main entrance, and commenced the ascent of a flight of steps leading to the belfry ; at the top of which having safely landed we beheld the famous beU, said to be the largest in Europe. It is suspended from a massive beam, and its weight, as marked on the side, is 1543 arobas of 32ib each. The height of the spire, as far as the belfry, is about two hundred feet, and we counted a hundred and ninety four steps, while climbing to this part of the tower. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 229* The Senoras of Toledo are low in stature; but beiag possessed of as large a share of beauty as those of any other part of Spain, and fuU of animation, they are all that can be wished as far as personal charms are concerned. And, indeed, to do them every justice, I must say they received us with a warm and hearty kindness, that was long, yes, very long remem bered. When they assemble on the passeo, they dress in every respect as they do for pub lic worship, clothed in fine robes of the richest black silk or velvet, trimmed with lace, their persons decorated with various brilliant orna ments, and the hair tastefully braided up Avith combs of costly Avorkmanship. A beautiful transparent veU, thrown gracefully over the figure, partially enfolds those charms it is in tended to adorn. Females of the lower class wear thick and substantial garments of black or brown cloth, of measurement so ample, that no opinion can be formed as to the dimensions of their shape. The men of rank generally dress in black, with ehapeau^ buckles, sword, and waistbelt. The 230 ADVENTURES OF working people and peasants wore the cloth jacket, botas, and montero cap, with, a pro fusion of tassels and buttons. Instead of shoes they wear, sandals, made of strong brown lea ther, laced round the foot and instep; these, together with the botas, (or leathern gaiters),; shew to great advantage their round and well turned limbs. We departed from Toledo on the 30th of September, at an early hour in the morning, very much regretting that we had so short a time to see every thing worthy of notice in that delightful place. Our route lay through a richly planted vale, Avatered by the Tagus, Avith whose rapid current we were in company for the whole of this day's march. Towards evening the troops were encamped upon a most inviting spot; the ground upon which our alignement was taken up being the fresh and verdant banks of the river, and around our bivouac, on eA'ery side, were gar dens and green plantations, filled with a great variety of shrubs and flowers in their Autum nal tints. With the soft leaves of these, (now, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 231 thickly fallen), for a bed, we enjoyed that rest, after a toilsome journey, which " the Aveary traveUef never seeks in vain." In the forenoon of the 1st of October, the column was again on the main road leading to Aranjuez, and parallel with the course of the river. When we were within two leagues of our destined quarters, we entered a noble avenue of tall trees, their branches forming a long continued archway overhead, and protect ing us from a scorching sun. The camino real Avas planted in double rows, in so direct a line, that the endless vista in perspective was, to our impatient optics, any thing but agree able; and Avhatever little stock of patience re mained within our keeping, was pretty well exhausted by the time we gained the end of our morning's tramp. At last, about 11 o'clock, we got into our cantonments; bugles, drums, and pipes rattling through the streets, enough, (at least in one sense,) to bring the very stones about our ears. Without any unnecessary de lay, we were permitted to make ourselves per fectly at home, in mansions devoid of either 232 ADVENTURES OF comfort or means of entertainment; emblems, they truly were of splendid misery. The ruth less hand of French campaigning had converted this once interesting place into a comparative Avilderness; the habitations had not only been pillaged, but the furniture burned or destroyed, and every vestige of their former grandeur SAvept away, by the cruel ravages of this devas tating warfare, leaving us to dispute with rats, and other vermin, for possession of their deso late abodes. Aranjuez, Avhich is seven leagues from Ma drid, seven from Toledo, and nineteen . from Segovia, has long been the residence of the Spanish Court; and, even in its fatten state, there is stiU sufficient to denote its past splen dour. In spite of the ruin to Avhich it has been exposed, it has the stamp of noble bear ing, and, previous to the invasion, must have been one of the most beautiful toAvns in the Spanish dominions. The Royal Palace, on the banks of the Tagus, is worthy of being the residence of princes, and contains a number of costly and magnificent paintings. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 233 The Queen's Palace, or the Casa de Labra dor, the charming summer retreat of her Ma jesty, is fitted up with simplicity and elegance combined, and, being replete with every com fort and luxury suited for a Queen, it may well be termed a paradise in miniature. The waUs are covered with richly embroidered tapestry, and the finest needleAvork, executed on silk and velvet, of exquisite workmanship. Around the palaces and buildings for the nobility and members of the court, are nume rous gardens, groves, and plantations, in the Avalks through which we rambled with much delight, as often as our duties might permit. The few inhabitants remaining here assembled on the promenade, to enjoy our mihtary music, Avhile a sprinkling of pretty blackeyed senori- tas rendered the place more highly interesting. 234 ADVENTURES OF CHAPTER XIII. A brother officer now joined with me in forming the plan of an excursion to Madrid. We had long been anxious to examine that celebrated capital, and were therefore desirous not to miss the opportunity afforded by our near vicinity to that city, which, in all human probability, might never occur again during the period of our natural lives. We asked and obtained leave accordingly, and started, on the evening of the 9th of October, like a brace of knights errant, upon our eventful journey. The weather was fine for that season of the CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 235 year, and circumstances appearing favourable to our pflgrimage we considered it advisable to proceed at a late hour, rather than wait for the following day, inasmuch as, in our uncer tain mode of fife, we knew not what a day might bring forth. We presumed upon our own skill to find out the way, and, trusting to that, took neither guide nor other attendant in our train, but saUied forth, mounted on a couple of hardy mules, and scantily provided with any thing pertaining to inward comfort. Pacing along the Camino de la Reyna, a long extended avenue, we arrived, as it began to, get dark, at the Queen's Bridge, a solid structure on the Tagus, whence proceeding aswe imagined on the direct road to Madrid, we jogged on heartily without apprehension as to the course we foUowed. The night became stiU more obscure and cold, and threatened rain. In the meanwhile we pursued the direction diametrically opposite to that we should have done ; turning away from the main road, and leaving our animals to make choice of any particular route they might 236- ADVENTURES OF in their sagacity prefer; For some time we progressed, in a state of uncertainty as to what point of the compass we Avere steering towards, till at length, passing through a wide gate very invitingly open before us, we were brought to a full stop, on a wild common, destitute of any track, or Arestige of even a pathway. In this- awkward dilemma we were completely at a nonplus, repenting sincerely of having set forth at so late. an hour upon our Quixotic expedition. To go forward at all hazards was our only remedy. The situation Avas by no means an enviable one, on a dark night in October, shivering on a desolate Avaste, with a cheerless journey- staring us in the face, or a cheerless bed on the cold earth. To add to our discomfort, we had the prospect of being exposed to the inclemency of most severe weather. It might be truly said that our experience was likely to be dearly purchased. — After an hour's fruitless exertion to get out of the labyrinth in which we had involved ourselves, we at last heard the barking of some dogs, and immediately advanced to- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 237 wards the quarter from which the sound pro ceeded, and were in no small degree gratified at finding we were close to a viUage. We rapped most lustily at the door of the first house we came to, and hailing the landlord, implored him to take compassion on two weary travetters, and give us lodging until daylight. Our call Avas quickly ansAvered by a surly voice from Avithin, demanding our reason for disturbing his highness at that improper hour ; at the same time telling, or rather bawling out, in tones denoting that we were most unwelcome A'isitors, the disagreeable inteUigence, that we were far from the high road, and should not be able to find it during the night. — The Span iard, however^ directed us to some farm houses for more inteUigence, and, glad to get from this inhospitable don, who treated us as though Ave had been house breakers, we again began to explore the unknown region, looking out most Avistfully for something by way. of a clue, to obtain the object of our search. Fortunately Ave perceived, after much marching and coun termarching, a light twinkling through the 238 ADVENTURES OF gloom and mist around us; and, struggling along over hedge, ditch, and drain, our faithful quadrupeds carried us safely to the entrance of a poor hamlet called Villa Conejo. Here the peasants were all comfortably Avrapped up in their beds. With some difficulty, however, by dint of both threats and bribes, we succeeded in procuring a guide, who buckling on his garments, and taking up a formidable staff, trudged before us Avith boldness equal to the renowned Sancho Panza himself. We were assured of getting into the right direction before morning, and, therefore, as the time of our absence was very limited, we hesitated not to push onward, notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, in preference to quartering in the village, where, for any thing we knew to the contrary, the people might think proper to be quartering us in another way, not quite so agreeable to our taste, before they suffered us to depart. In this mountainous district, the inhabitants of remote valleys are, in many cases, either brigands themselves, or closely allied to such ; CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 239 hence the necessity of being on the qui vive, and ourfears were full yjustified by the fierce and bandit looking aspect of those dark fettows who made their appearance on our arrival. With sinister looks and angry scowls, they glanced at us in a manner that made us rejoice to get away, chusing rather to encounter the howling winds than the treachery of those suspicious gentlemen. Having no particular desire to feel the sharp edge of their knives, that peeped from beneath their girdles, we wisely pursued our journey in quest of new adventures, and prepared for any rough work Avhich might be in reserve. Led on by our gaUant pioneer, we once more faced the storm, and, groping forward amidst the darkness, we pushed our way through the intricate and trackless waste. Our trusty mules, foUowing the footsteps of the guide, carried us safely over the ground, proving how much we owed to those poor animals for the service they afforded. About midnight we passed the moor land, and arrived at a miserable village, consist ing of a few. wretched hovels, scarcely offering 240 ADVENTURES OF the privilege of shelter from the violence of the blast. Into one of these we gained admittance, and, after some little parley with the landlord, we were honoured with permission to stretch our wearied limbs on a flinty bed, manufactur ed from rough materials, and thrown upon a floor that had long been unswept by brush or broom. Our whiskered aidLde-camp, having consigned us to the protection of the patron, gathered himself up within the ample folds of his cloak, and rolled into the chimney corner, where his nasal machinery was set agoing, and soon produced an overture sufficient to banish sleep from the most drowsy eyelids. About 4 o'clock, AAre rose from our comfort less mattress, and, without any unnecessary delay in the adjustment of the toilet, resumed our journey northwards. On the first appear ance of daylight, we descended from the moun tain path, and arrived near the little village of Bayone, situated on the right bank of the river Guarena. After passing through the smaU toAvns of Cienposuelo and Valdemoro, we at length CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 241 gained the extremity of the avenue or approach from Aranjuez, and here, for the first time, we beheld the towers and elevated buildings of Madrid. Crossing the Manzanares by the Puente de Toledo, we entered the Calle de Toledo, a steep narrow street, which conduct- - ed us td the Grand Square, from whence going "¦ into a small central space, called Le Plaza de Porte del Sol, we brought up at the doors of a tavern, under the sign of La Fonda Francois. Here we enjoyed an excellent breakfast ; ourJ hostess, a garrulous dame, knew well how to charge for the demands made upon her larder, by appetites sharpened on the touch-stone of eight leagues ; and, judging from our meagre aspect, that our performances as trenchermen would be of no despicable order, she deter mined that her pocket at least should be no loser by our morning's ride. The Alcalde with his satellites and myrmi dons gave us considerable trouble, teazing us with numerous questions, as wett as a strict cross-examination with regard to our object hi coming here ; and I verily believe that, had-we M 242 ADVENTURES OF not been dressed in British uniform, they would have furnished us with lodgings in a bunding not quite in accordance with our ideas of freedom, or suitable to our state of mind.— They> however, in a most ungracious manner, gave us billets on the house of a wealthy Spaniard, living in the CaUe del San Antonio, which is a handsome street leading from, the Grand Square. In these quarters we enjoyed the comforts of a civilized life, for a short term after the wandering and vagrant system of the bivouac, or encampment ; and we made good use qf the interval allowed in viewing the lions qf this extraordinary place, and in exploring every hole and corner that was likely to con tain anything marvellous or worthy of ob servation. Manifold accounts have been given by sun-: dry tourists respecting Madrid; in order there fore to avoid all useless repetition, I shall mere ly glance at a few matters, which may, per chance, have escaped the notice of these curi- ©sity hunters. Our patron, Don Pedro Gonzalez, was a ci- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 243' til and obliging personage^ but as we had good reason to know that he Avas in the French in terest, we *«^eeted -that- his conduct was not sincere^ and we were the more confirmed in this opinion, from the very marked attention paid by him to a certain Madame, of vivacious manners, named Durand. The worthy Don being a bachelor^ appearances favoured the rumour, that an intimacy of a more binding nature was likely to take1 place between them ; or, in other words, the love-stricken Pedro was about to become a Benedict. To be on good terms with Mademoiselle was therefore equiva lent to the- same happy cireamstarlces-with' re gard to our host, who, accordingly, gave every facility to our exertions in gaining admittance to public places; and was, on various1 opportu nities, highly useful' to his guests. - The con versation and agreeable disposition' of -the-gay French-woman served to dissipate any ttrtsian- choly thoughts that might - have haunted us. Without being decidedly handsomeyshe had a very good set of features, and was of such a pleasant temperament^ thatr although she- Wa» m 2 244x. ADVENTURES OF arrived at a reflecting age, her society, was- courted by many admiring swains, to the no small annoyance of the gaUant Lothario him self, whose chief motive, in acting the part of, our Cicerone, was, that he might withdraw the. Qfficiales Ingleses from any temptation that might be presented to our susceptible hearts, by the wily blandishments and ensnaring charins Of his lovely dulcinea. The principal places of amusement open at tfiis time were the Opera House, in the Calle de Principe, and the theatre denominated El Collegio de la Cruz. What a college might have to do with the name of theatre, I could not imagine, unless it were that the loose and dissipated habits of collegians in general favor ed those entertainments, or that the members of the learned institutions at Madrid were the chief patrons of the stage. The house was opened at an early hour, and fiUed by a res pectable though motley audience. Among the, singular customs of Spain is that of placing the ladies and gentlemen at a most aAvful dis tance from each other ; a custom which in our CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 245 minds would have been more honoured in the breach than in the observance; and if we might be permitted to judge from the bewitch ing glances of their sparkling eyes, the fair se- noritas would have had no sort of objection to a repeal of such an unnatural disunion. Had the performances been ever so defightfuL they must of necessity, have proved " flat, stale and unprofitable," to the senses of gentlemen, ban ished as we were by such an abominable regu lation- from all intercourse or communion with that portion of the assembled audience in which was comprised all that waa lovely and beautiful in nature's fair creation. The lunetta (or pit,) resembled a den or arena of wild men of the woods — such were the characters in closed therein untamed by female influence. — The noisy crew maintained such a loud and boisterous turmoU, that it was impossible to hear one word that was uttered on the stagey and the scene enacted in the pit or lunetta was something not unlike the performances in a bear garden. The balcos (or boxes,) fronting the stage, 246 ADVENTURES OP were occupied by the kdiesj who, decked out in costly attire, manoeuvred their fans with such activity, that they might have Iteratty been said to have answered all the purpose of the eastern punka ;* a cool and refreshing air being thus circulated throughout the crowded building. The house was but dimly illumined by some dirty lamps, scantily furnished ¦with oiL The. music was tolerably good, although somewhat marred b'y the rude accompaniment from our friends in the lunetta. The play went off with vociferous applause, though the performers knew scarcely a word of their parts t— but, owing to the noise, pantomime answer ed just as weU. The prompter, an ugly caitiff, Avith. black bushy whiskers, and a wooUy head encased within a greasy velvet cap, was stuck up before the footlights, with half bis body above the level of the stage, as if about to emerge from the bowels of the earth, like some daemon from the nether region, while he, with * The punka, used in India, is an enormous kind of fan, suspended in a room, and moved by ropes, to cool the air. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 247 angry looks and threatening gesture, endea voured to hammer into the impenetrable skulls pf the stupid actors the words intended for their delivery. About 11 o'clock the entertainment was con cluded ; and we returned to our lodgings es corted by a crowd of ragged boys, carrying flambeaux to light us home. The Theatre De la Cruz, though smaller than that of Del Prin cipe, is ornamented with better taste, and is on the whole a handsome buUding. In both the performers are tolerable, and the dancing in the little theatre is beautiful beyond des cription. The expense of admission amounts to nearly the same as in England. There were no other places of amusement open dur ing our stay. Assemblies and private concerts were held in various parts of the city ; but since the war with France all public batts and concerts have been discontinued. The famous buU-fights, deemed the most enh'ghtened exhibitions of mo dern times by the patiyes, were held on Mon- 248 ADVENTURES OF days and Fridays in the Plaza Mayor, or Plaza de Torres. NotAvithstandingthe unsettled state of things the inhabitants of Madrid seem to enjoy life to the fullest extent, andin the constant pursuit of gaiety endeavour to dispel that gloom which would otheiwise pervade their city, and in which those of any other capital would be in volved. They appeared to act with the same indifference and unconcern, when the French or British were in possession, and of those two nations I believe the majority of them pre ferred the former, which, if one may judge from the natural levity and liveliness of their disposition, proceeded not only from their love of sfiow, but from simUarity of manners, taste and habits. With the Spanish fair in particular the French were the greater favour ites, having, by their gallantry and politeness, during their long residence, won golden opin ions, and gained a place in their confidence and esteem. After visiting tbe Royal Palace, (a descrip- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 249 tion of which I dare not enter into, because the time for observation was much too short, we proceeded to an edifice called La China, a fortified place, and where the celebrated por-' celain and China Avare had been manufactured. A train of gunpowder having been laid, prepar atory to blowing up the works, no person was' admitted within, nor do I think there Avas any particular inducement to press for entrance. — From a general glance at its exterior, there appeared nothing to recommend it, for either beauty or grandeur of effect. It is a plain building, of white stone, situated on an emi nence beyond the Retiro, commanding the principal part of the city and its environs. The Palace of the Retiro was not worth see-' ing, being merely a ruinous square of low buildings, lately converted into a barrack, and having within its limits a large and spacious court yard. It was palisaded and strongly de fended by works, which were considerably strengthened by the French. Close to the en trance, is the Palace of Godoy, Prince of the Peace, AA'hich faces the Prado, the great public 250 ADVENTURES OF Alameda of Madrid. The fabric, notwith standing its limited scale, is furnished ine a most costly and splendid style, and contained a large collection of rare and beautiful paint ings. In point of magnificence it is equal, if not superior, to the Casa de Campo, a country re sidence for the Royal FamUy, near the Man- zanares. After seeing the Royal Museum, (which, like all other museums, is well fitted with ob jects deserving the attention of the curious,) we visited the armoury, (near the gate of Saint Barbara) stiled here El Real Parque d'Artil- leria, where valuable specimens of ancient ar mour, and many plans and models, were exhi bited. Some thousand stand of arms were pUed in harmless quietude, and arranged with order and regularity. King Joseph and his retinue thought proper to make free with the carriages and other means of conveyance of the people of Madrid, with which they drove off, leaving the owners to trudge about in a more humble man- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 251 ner than they had hitherto been used to. The fair Senoras were thus reluctantly compelled to tramp the pave, exposing their graceful and fascinating persons to the rude gaze of a vulgar multitude. On arriving at the extremity of the Calle de Alcala, we found ourselves on that dehghtful mall caUed the Prado, already mentioned, which is an avenue about half a mile in length ; it is planted on each side -with uniform rows of va rious trees, whose branches are interwoven through the greater part of the year. This promenade is kept in the highest order, and between the double line of trees are gravel waUcs, enclosed by shrubs and evergreens. At each end is a fountain of the finest polished marble, the sculpture of which is executed in the most beautiful manner. Here the Royal FamUy, as well as the nobUity and gentry, as semble for the passeo at the fashionable hours ; to the lower classes the waUc is open at aU periods. They are an active and bustling people here, the various occupations going on with a degree 252 ADVENTURES OF . of spirit not easily accounted fop in these troublesome times. The number of poor, how ever, is very great ; many dying in the streets of starvation. We met several persons, male and female, who had formerly been possessed of wealth and. distinction, endeavouring to ob tain a livelihood by setting, in a private way, different articles of their dress and household furniture. Others, particularly women, whose looks bespoke their having lived in better days, were reduced, to the miserable situation of vending pamphlets or small wares, or keep ing staUs, or even hawking salt fish or vegeta bles through the city. Madrid was watted in ancient times ; no ves tige, however, now remains of any such de fences, it is completely open and exposed. We now prepared for our departure to Aran-, juez; and, therefore, for any further informa- tion about Madrid, I must direct the reader's, attention to the recent, works on Spain and its capital, wherein will be found, in detaU, the. best accounts of all that is worthy the travel ler's notice. I cannot, hoAAever, avoid saying CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 253 something of the mode of access to their dwellings, which, from the difficulty caused by this mode, might almost have been called for bidden ground. The houses of Madrid are solid, and furnished as usual with balconies and prison-like windows, and are sometimes of great magnitude ; those of the Alcade, and the Governor Don Inacio Cortabunio, forming one side of a tolerably long street. Within the entrance of the great door is usually a small rectangular passage, from whence the ascent to the upper part of the building is gained by a. narrow flight of stone steps. On arriving at the extremity of the hall or passage just men tioned, a strongly bolted door, which shuts in the staircase, forbids your further approach; but, after considerable delay, you discover a small bellcord, which you pull, and then another trial of your patience takes place, and you re-: main still cooling your heels, at the end of a cold dark place, not unlike a cavern. Your solitude is at length disturbed by the sepul chral tone of an old weather-beaten Sybil, who, peering with an ugly, wizened, and vinegar 254 ADVENTURES OF countenance through a wicket or small crevice overhead, screams out, with shrifl and angry voice, "qui quiere !" while, at the same time, doubtful of your rank or character, she scans with the hideous glances of an evfl eye the bearings of your person. When you have satisfied her on this head, she, much against the grain, raises the unwilling latch by means of a greasy rope. When the massive portal, creaking on its rusty hinges, is pushed open, not without much force, and you find yourself upon the gloomy steps to grope as best you can to the upper regions, your advances are still impeded, either by the tlireats of the gar rulous antique, or by the barking of some fu rious Cerberus, a fit companion for his sister guardian of the dwelling. When you are known, and become familiar, the mode of ad mittance is by no means a work of so much difficulty, nor is the frosty visaged Argus so jealous of access. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 255 CHAPTER XIV. We arrived at Aranjuez on the 13th of October, after an absence of four days ; three of which were spent as agreeably as Ave could have wished, and in the full enjoyment of every variety afforded by a city weU deserving a longer visit, and one which though it is less generaUy known, is more interesting in every point of view, than many that are more fre quently resorted to. On the 23rd of October the troops were again in futt march, on the high road to Madrid, halting at various intermediate stations. We 256 ADVENTURES OF , passed that city, on the 29th of the same month, and, tantalized as we were by our close proximity to its gates, we continued onward in the direction of the Pass of Guadarama, it being the object of our chief to fottoAV hard upon the French army, (which was then bend ing northward, in rapid strides,) and alloAV them no rest, night or day, until we brought them to a decisive combat. Our road, as we approached the mountains, lay over a fertile countiy; the view on every side presenting a vast extent of arable and tittage land. Towards evening, after a long and painful journey, we' halted at the Court-yard of the Escurial. This famous palace, built by PhUip the. Second of Spain, is consecrated to St. Lawrence, and is formed after the pattern of a gridiron, upon which very useful culinary article the Saint is supposed to have undergone the ope ration qf being broUed. The building stands on one of the heights at the base of the lofty chain of the Guadarama, and is a huge and spacious pile, enclosing four distinct court; yards, the whole surrounded by an extensive CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 257 range of buildings, allotted to the domestic establishment of the royal household. The grand entrance faces the mountain, the barren sides of which offer but a confined and uninte resting prospect. From the windows of the principal apartments, looking to the South> (which are said to be as numerous as the days in the year,) a view embracing all that fine ex tent of country round Madrid, and along the Manzanares, may, however, be enjoyed, which fully compensates for the dull uniformity on the other quarters. Some idea may be formed of the enormous amplitude of the structure, when it is considered that General Hill's divi sion, including the Portuguese troops, were lodged within the walls, and found sufficient room in the gaUeries, court-yards, and outer- halls, Avithout entering any of .the private chambers. Our brigade marched up the great staircase, with ample space to move along in sections. It was a splendid cantonment, and worthy a better fate than that of being con verted into a barrack and cooking place for a few thousand hungry soldiers. 258 ADVENTURES OF The 'rooms, into which the officers obtained admittance, were spacious and lofty, those ap propriated to the members of the court being ornamented and furnished in a costly mannen The lateness of our arrival, as well as the short ness qf our stay, prevented our seeing the mausoleum; in which the royal family of Spain has been entombed for ages past. It is con sidered one of the greatest curiosities in Europe, and is beneath the grand chapel, of the palace. The grand front has three separate entrances, and above the dome surmounting the central gate, the figure of St. LaAvrence, together with the gridiron, stand upon a pedestal, and under neath are the Arms of Spain. On the 1st of November we moved on to wards the crest of the Guadarama, our route being along the summit of the hills, forming the lower branches of the Sierra, the ascent of which we took more than two hours to accom plish ; many times on the way being obliged to halt, in order to gain breath for a further stretch. It was a work of considerable fatigue to both men and animals, and on arriving at CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 259 the extreme point we were fairly exhausted by the effect of our morning's walk. Nature has here placed a formidable barrier between the provinces of Old and New Castile. This road, which is the only one across the mountain, is difficult of access, the rocks on either side being steep, rugged, and in some parts perpendicular, rising high above the causeway. Close to where we halted stands a pedestal of granite, on which is placed the figure of a lion crouched, holding between his paws two balls, intended, as denot ed by the inscription underneath, to represent the provinces below. In the centre of the pe destal is inserted a square slab of marble, on which is inscribed, in large characters, " Fer nando VII, Pater Patriae," foUowed by a long account of the cause for which the monument was erected, but in letters so smaU, and so much defaced, that it is a matter of some diffi- eulty to decipher the mysterious tale. Being again formed into something like marching order, we proceeded downward with a lively pace, leaving the plains of New CastUe behind, and bidding a long and last farewell to 260 ADVENTURES OF that part of Spain, which had been for years gone by the theatre of our varied and ofttimes* not very peaceful occupation. On our descent from the Sierra, we continued along the main road to Valladolid, and after having cantoned at several intermediate stages^ arrived on the 8th at Alba de Tormes, a small town, one day's march from. Salamanca, and commanding the passage of the Tormes, over whiclr, at this place, there was a solid stone bridge. • We were soon actively employed getting all the old watts and defences into good condition, and, after waiting behind them for a few daysj expecting an attack from a large body of the French army, (who had sent some round shot about our ears), we again crossed the river, taking care to destroy the bridges^ the moment that the last of our men were over. The enemy, who had threatened in so for midable a way, sheered off to his left, making for the road to Ciudad RodrigO, in order to interrupt our progress in that line, with the view of eventually cutting off our communica tion with the frontiers Of Portugal. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 261" • The whole of the British forces, meanwhile, passed on towards the AripUes, those remark able heights, where the great contest of Sala- , manca was fought in the preceding year. Here battle was again offered to the French, who declined the pleasure of our kind invitation, and wisely deeming prudence to be the better, part of valour, continued their manoeuvres to impede our march on Portugal, and succeeded, in getting possession of almost all the ap proaches in that direction. On the 14th, our troops Avere rapidly pushed. forward, in order to counteract their plans, and, by forced marches, we got the lead, the fore most columns being far advanced on the road to Rodrigo in the course of that day. It was a neck and neck concern,, and nothing but the superior generalship of Lord Wellington could have brought us through the difficulty. The rain poured down in torrents^ as we entered the woods, through which the various; routes, penetrated, and the most inclement weather that ever was. experienced set in on the commencement of this unfortunate marcln 262 ADVENTURES OF Wind and hail in aU their Varieties beat unmer- cifuUy upon us, and the elements in fearful agitation combined to assail us on every side, while the roads, broken up by the violence of the storm, were rendered almost impassable, producing thereby the utmost delay in the transport of our supplies. To increase our sufferings, the personal baggage had been sent on some days in advance, so that we had no covering whatever but the garments that we wore, which Avere now waxing quite deplorable ; and as for subsistence, our only resource was the miserable contents of a lank and scanty haversack, wherein were jumbled up together, in a sort of medley, the A-arious remnants of ration leather, (falsely called beef), and mouldy biscuit, hard and jaw breakings of which the maggots contended for a share. — It was enough to horrify the poor chop-fatten wanderer, who trudged along most dismally, cold, drenched, and Woebegone. Were I to relate but one tenth of the suffer ings we endured, in what is known as the retreat of Salamanca, civilians would stare, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 263 and say that I dealt largely in the marvellous, or was drawing a long bow ; but, start not, ye fireside and ye featherbed gentry, when I inform you, that many times have we arisen from our damp, arid comfortless berth on the cold ground, with no prospect of a breakfast, but that which we derived from a meal of acorns, and often have we munched at these in lieu of more savoury food ; cheAvdng (by way of dessert), the bitter cud of disappointment and vexation. At the termination of each day's march, doAvn came the branches of the forest, and loudly clashed the bill hook and the axe, to put in requisition materials for the long wished- for fire, to establish which was a labour of no trifling nature, for the timber, throughly saturated with rain, lay in smoking heaps, long after the light had been communicated, whfle we Avith haggard looks stood coUected round the smouldering pilei The flames at length got up, all due advantage was taken of this blessing, and no sirloin was ever more indus triously turned by the hand of anxious cook 264 ' ADVENTURES OF than were our precious bodies, both front and rear alternately, with the vain hope of getting dry, and some degree of heat whereAvith to cheer our wearied bones. In the midst of all our extremities there was still something to excite the mind ; while camp ing but among the oak trees, numerous droves of wUd pigs ran to and fro, as we invaded their' dominions, and in their flight many were fired at and shot by the famished soldiers, who were ignorant, when committing the depredation, of its being a crime which would cause the dis pleasure of our Chief. — Some were performing the achievement of hunting down the grunters, AvhUe others displayed their skiU in the culinary art, after the chase was over. The unfortunate swinish multitude afforded some delicate tit bits, and the greasy provender was bolted irt' solid pieces by the half-starved men. Before we came to break in on their retired ment, the poor animals were revelling in' luxury on the acorns, by which they chiefly^ fed, but as our troops approached their haunts they set up a grand concert, resounding CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 265: through the woods, the most audible tone of Avhich Avas a firm thorough bass. The hog is by no means the most despicable of the brute creation, for have Ave not had the learned pig, and the pig-faced lady, who thought it no disgrace to bear a likeness to the useful beast. We have moreover good reason to know that the quadruped has proved a sub ject of deep meditation to more than one biped. There was a certain Aviseacre, who lived not quite a hundred miles from Chester, of ample paunch, and who not only loved his port, but his port loved him ; for it shone in rosy blos soms on his well bronzed visage ; in fact, his person bore no bad resemblance to a weU fiUed . bottle. He was a great admirer and disciple of Kitchener, Mrs. Glass, and others of the same stamp. Having one day a party at his house, he, by way of entertaining them, led them through his grounds, and, after that, to : the various buildings for his cattle. " But now," says the happy man, as they approached the piggery, rubbing, at the same time, his . hands with joy, "you .will see something on N 266 ADVENTURES OF which you may feast your eyes;" and, on giv ing the signal, a regiment of fat hogs were marched out of their quarters, and passed in review before the delighted guests. One of the gentlemen remarked what amazingly fine animals they were. " Yes," says their host, " I thought you would say so ! I flatter my self," (here his eyes sparkled in triumph,) " there are not such prime ones in England ; they ought to be so, — I feed them weU, — I have made them my constant study all my life." What an intellectual scholar ! there was the feast of reason with a vengeance; fat pork, tusks, bristles and all. What a study! — O ye classics, ye national educationists, ye Brough- amites, — hide your diminished heads ! Here's a college course for ye; aye, and one that may be studied by John Bull with joy and pride; for, instead of wasting the midnight oil, he may consult his lard-er, and contemplate, with a rapturous sensation, the Essays of Bacon, and Hog's-tales, while poring over the whole range of his swinish library . But, enough ! we must recommence our march. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 267 The gentlemen with the blue coats not chusing to measure swords Avith us, we lingered not upon the road, but, moving on the Agueda, arrived at the viUage of Robledo on the 18th. Here we were comparatively in luxury for a season; the severity of our recent journey, ad ded to the miseries of night exposure under ' such dreadful weather, rendered doubly wel come the comfort of a roof; and the kitchen fire of even an humble dweUing restored us once more from our torpid state to spirit and animation. To each of the officers was allotted a tolerably good sized cabin, furnished plentiful ly with straw, in which, to our dismay, we found a numerous tribe of nimble footed gentry, which have already been more than once mentioned. We broke up from those cantonments, and, steering our course over a long mountainous ridge, we entered the town of Coria, on the , 30th of November. This place is situated on a steep hill, at the base of which flows the small river Alagon, and is at no great distance from the Portuguese frontier. The country around is well planted with the olive and the n 2 268 ADVENTURES OF vine, of the latter in particular there was then a great abundance, of the finest description, , from which the most delicious wine is made. In company with another officer, I was bil- letted on the house of an ancient widow, who was the most perfect shrew I ever beheld. It must have been a happy day for her unfor tunate spouse, that Avitnessed his departure from the stormy vicinity of his termagant rib, to the more peaceful mansions of the defunct. The heaviness of the weather, subsequent to - our arrival, caused us to pass rather a dreary time, made still more sad by the death-like totting of the cathedral bells, eternally sound ing in our ears. The place is weU stocked with a great variety of priests, monks, friars, and other ecclesiastics, forming a worshipful host, Avith ill-favoured countenances. Although their looks are meagre, their corpulent rotundity of shape proves that to mortify the body forms no part whatever of their doctrine, and that an abundance of fat things, together with a libe ral supply of the vinous fluid, are by no means inconsistent with their holy calling. It is also CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 269 said of them, that the worldly discussion of those affairs is much more frequently the sub ject of their meditation, than the comparatively irksome duty of either prayer or fasting. The best and most luscious wine, not only here, but in all parts of Spain, is denominated, in justice to the better taste of those divines, " Priests' wine," and is more highly valued than any other. The Alcalde, the corporation, and the myr midons pertaining thereto, were a mean-look ing, illdressed set of fellows. The former is chosen annuatty from the middle classes; in some instances his worship has figured in the trade of pig-driver, butcher, or other employ ment of that nature. We saw but few inhabitants of distinction here; the families of the poorer order were nu merous, generally iU-looking, and badly clothed. The females, in particular, we remarked, as not being " cast in nature's finest mould ;" in fact, to tell the honest truth, I must say, that we never beheld a more ugly and forbidding race of damsels. On this account, they were eer- 270 ADVENTURES OF tainly right to hide themselves. Indeed, we seldom had an opportunity of gazing at their lovely persons; as, unless at those times when they tottered, (as they always seemed to do) to chapel, they remained chiefly within doors, en joying the genial warmth of the brasseirb, in preference to exposing their delicate frames to the effect of the chitting blast. The usual mUdness of the climate, as well as the summer heat, congenial to the Spanish fair, renders them more sensible of cold, and less capable of enduring the rudeness of December vrinds and frost. The transition from the close atmos phere of their dwellings to the bleak and humid air within their churches is often the means of imparting to the Senoras a pale and ghastly look, their dark and sallow aspect assuming a death-like tinge, which, combined with their usually spectral form, would indicate to the observer, that the wire drawn figures on the marble flags of the chapel were speedily to occupy a tenement of small dimensions beneath the stones upon which they knelt. A short time subsequent to our arrival at CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 271 Coria, Colonel Charles Stewart, of the 50th, died of fever, brought on by excessive fatigue, after an illness, of about ten days. His consti tution was undermined, not only by the effect of past service in India, but by that in which he was engaged in .Spain. The harassing marches we had undergone since we passed the Tormes overcame his already impaired health, and he may be literally said to have fallen a victim to his unwearied exertions on that retreat. By aU who could appreciate the value of high military feeling and strict discipline, Colonel Stewart was justly regretted.. Zealous and well informed on every point of duty, he knew how to estimate those qualities in others* while he held a tight rein over the careless and inattentive. Such characters as composed the Belem* Rangers he never could approve of, and * This troop of heroes was composed of men and officers with facings of all the colours in the rainbow, and with every variety of garb. Among them were those who could not fight, as well as those who would not; and I am sorry to say, that of the latter there was a large proportion. Some, ashamed of 272 , ADVENTURES OF - at all times he set his face against. a certain set of men, who were very fine fellows when strut ting upon parade at. home, but were so careful being enrolled upon its list, remained but a. short time with the corps ; others, vegetating in all the deKghts of peace and quietness, with zealous attachment to the Rangers, put off the evil hour as long as possible. Being fond of dainties, they kept within the smell of Lisbon,- with its oil and garlick, the perfume of which they snuffed up with ecstacy. As for being exposed to fire, they coveted no more than sufficed for their cigars ; the smoke from thence was smoke enough for them. Figuring away with the Portuguese Senoras, they were formidr able cavaliers, and as their gallantry was all expended on those fair objects, they had none to spare for warlike purposes. They were fond of duty ahout the castle of Belem, nor had they any particular fancy to go to a distance from the Tagus. The bivouac was -their horror; they eschewed the miseries of a camp ; and, with regard to marching, from tbe caffes to the operas and back again, was, in their ideas, just as much fatigue as any gentleman ought to suffer ; therefore, to call them Han gers was a sad misnomer. In order to neutralize the evil, and prevent the corps from getting rather strong, officers were -placed at Abrantes, Castel Branco, and other intermediate stations, who performed the duty of whippers in. Those ia general were tight hands, and if there was an offieer of rank, who bore the character of being a bitter pill, he was sure to get the post, so that the poor crest-fallen aspirants for promo tion in the Belemites had no chance, but were checked in their career ; and unless they could duly prove that they were cur tailed in natural dimensions, by the loss of legs or arms, or had suffered other more desperate mutilations, they were forced. to troop it back again, with their faces to the army.. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 273 of their oAvn dear persons, that they kept at a most respectful distance from the field when there was any rough work going forward. The remains of Colonel Stewart were foUowed to the tomb by all the troops in the garrison, and were interred in the terrace of the grand Cathedral here. Brigadier General WUson, late Colonel of the 39th also died here, he was an old officer and deservedly regretted. It latterly became so difficult a matter to pass these barriers, that several preferred, though riddled through with balls, to rough it in the camp, rather than run the gauntlet past these commandants. The worthy members of the corps above alluded to had no extraordinary relish for intelligence from the front, and when accounts came down of desperate fighting, or a hint was thrown out, that some of them might be wanted, it cre ated a wondrous stir among them ; their military ardour was cooled in a marvellous way, and whatever stock of courage they could boast of, oozed out, (as it did with Bob Acres )j through their fingers' ends. At home what capital officers they made, swarming in to join with prompt alacrity (when the war was. over,) and with much bravado talking of their past campaignSj and lording it over the juniors ! How they did puff and blow, in country quarters, on trooping off the guard, and looking wondrous big,, as they exercised their little brief authority ! N 5 274 ADVENTURES OF CHAPTER XV. It was on a fine clear morning, on the 7th of January, 1813, that Ave departed from Coria. After marching for some hours, we passed the boundaries of a thick olive forest, about a mile beyond which appeared the large village of Monte Hermosa, so closely surrounded with trees, that the chapel spire and tiled roofs of the houses were the only discernable objects. Owing to the wildness and retirement of the situation, most of the hamlets in the forest and among the hiUs, are the haunts of nume- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 275 rous banditti, who infest the district for many leagues round. These bands of lawless men are composed chiefly of deserters from the Spanish army, joined by outcast peasants, who forming into parties resort to those heights on any sudden alarm, where concealed in caves among the rocks they lie secure from all pur suit. Armed with carbines, knives and pistols, they saUy forth from their lurking-places by night, and not only plunder but frequently as sassinate the unwary traveUers in a most bar barous and cruel manner. On the 17th of January I set out on a jour ney to Placentia, four leagues from Monte Hermosa. Being advised to travel in company with the country people, (who generally form ed a numerous party,) on account of the sus picious characters above aUuded to, 1 joined the cavalcade, and we all proceeded together. We crossed the Alagon by means of a ponderous flat-bottomed machine, answering the purpose of a ferry-boat, in which was also conveyed the mules, asses and baggage ; being safely landed on the opposite bank we trotted forward at a ¦27<> ADVENTURES «F Jbrisk and lively pace, through the open and varied country. Having among our party a number of good-humoured buxom wenches we got on very pleasantly, for these sprightly dam sels kept up such a round of merriment and noisy clatter, Avith occasional singing, that dull ness and care with their • attendant, train of imps were forced to trudge it by another route, since they could get no quarter with us. The rustics, accustomed to exercise and hard labour, kept up with us, while they tramped heartily along on foot, and the women in par ticular, being clean-limbed, light heeled, weU made and healthy, carried on with aU sail ahead, to the no small surprise and admiration of their companions and fellow-travellers. Af ter passing through a poor and hungry-looking viUage, we entered the wide and dark forest of Carcaboso, where the road, hitherto level, be came broken and mountainous. As; we ap proached Placentia the prospect had no re deeming feature; att Avas desolate and bare,, and, with the exception of a few peasants here and there, as wild as the rocks upon which, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. '277 .they stood, nothing in the shape of a living creature was visible. We descended a rough and winding path-way, (for it claimed- no bet ter name,) towards an ancient bridge by which we crossed the Jerte, and were quickly in the streets of the old town of Placentia.* On the receipt of my billet at the Casa Con- sistorial, I walked thither, and found a cordial reception at the house of Francisco Barona, where, being regaled in a most exceUent way, I had cause to rejoice at being quartered upon so generous a host. » It was in this town that a Hielaneholy circumstance took place on the parade of the 3rd regiment, or Old Buffs. Lieutenant Annesley, of the grenadiers, was inspecting his company, when one of the soldiers, watching his opportunity, took his musket, and levelling it at the officer, shot him through the heart. Annesley was a long time in the Buffs, in which he was much esteemed, and he was a remarkably good-looking young man, from the south of Ireland. The soldier who had a pique against the Lieutenant, for some alleged ill-treatment, was a very different character, and one of those discontented sort of fellows common in every regiment; one who is usually termed by his companions a lawyer. He was shot soon after at Placentia, pursuant to the sentence of a General Court Martial.. 278 ADVENTURES OF The worthy Don was in the vale of years, aiid above seventy ; but though infirm he had all the sprightliness of youth, and was a most agreeable and intelligent old gentleman. His third Avife, who soon made her appear ance/was notmore than twenty, a smart andgaily dressed senora; and the expression of her penetrating eyes afforded sufficient evidence that, as far as she was concerned, full consent might be obtained to dissolve the partnership between January and May, in order that a union more congenial to her wishes might speedily be formed. A young Spanish officer called frequently during my abode here, and from the state of affairs he appeared to be the fortunate Lothario, who was destined to per form a conspicuous part in the new treaty of alliance. Most sweetly did this son of Mars smile on the charming Leonora, who on her part, • while the unsuspicious Don was fast asleep, and amusing the lovers with a nasal chaunt, discharged not a few amorous glances, intended to intangle stiU further the tender heart of her admiring sAvain. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 279 On the 19th I pursued my journey home ward, accompanied, as before, by a numerous host of natives, returning to their several places of abode. As the night came on we again enter ed the forest, the travellers both horse and foot getting into close column, in order that they might be prepared to encounter any straggling party of banditti, by Avhich these woods are sometimes infested. While day-light continued, jovial fun and peals of laughter resounded on every side ; but on the approach of darkness, the merriment and cheerful song gradually died away, and the hitherto joyous spirits Avere damped by the knowledge of having such troublesome neighbours in the vicinity. The old hands told many a frightful tale of murders and rob beries which had been committed, serving to make the anxious listener alive to fears which Avere considerably increased by the frequent, appearance of certain wooden crosses, erected on the spot where some unfortunate victim had been slain. The young and inexperienced, as well as those among the crowd Avho had not 280 ADVENTURES OF met with any dangerous adventure, looked ea gerly around amidst the gloom with watch ful eyes. Full of excitement and apprehension, they conjured up an ambuscade at every clump of trees; a desperado, or assassin, armed to the teeth, seemed to arise before the affrighted vision at every turning of the road ; untU, at length, by the time we were nearly clear through the lone and thickly-planted district, they were nearly at their wits' end, and were quite convinced that they had narrowly escaped a pilgrimage to the other world. We fortunately gained the Alagon just as the ferry-boat was preparing to leave the bank, and, about ten o'clock, got safe into the village, after aU our hair-breadth chances, without hav ing had an interview with the outlawed Avan- derers, who had acted wisely in keeping at an awful distance, and not hazarding an attack upon our well-armed and formidable party. The peasantry of Monte Hermosa are a quiet industrious race, the men are robust, black- looking feUows; their clothing is of brown cloth, over which is thrown a sort of leather CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 281 covering, with an aperture for the head, worn to save the garments while occupied in the employment of wood-cutting. The women, in consequence of the ample folds of their nume rous cloth coats, are wondrously capacious in the middle and lower regions, and display as prominent a rotundity as the Hottentot Venus. Had circular sterns been then fashionable in our navy, Sir Robert S'eppings might have select ed excellent models from among the females of Monte Hermosa. The inhabitants, old and young, usually as sembled after sunset in front of their houses, for the purpose of amusing themselves in a variety of ways. Their music is that of the bandeiro, a clumsy instrument, somewhat resembling a tamborine, though of" a square form; it is generally played on by some ill-favoured sybil, who, beating the parch ment with her skinny palm, produces a dull monotonous sound. When this is ac companied by a brace of similar hideous gor- gons, catterwauhng in doleful strains, the con cert thus produced is not of such a very ten- 282 ADVENTURES OF der nature as " to soften rocks or bend the knotted oak," but a heavy hum-drum piece of discord, not unlike a funeral howl, each stanza being finished with a tedious drone by way of chorus, which has a strong relationship to the Scotch bag-pipes, and serves the purpose of a narcotic upon the admiring spectators. To this delightful harmony do the rustics trip, not on " the light fantastic toe," but with apavior's tread, slowly moving their limbs ; the stupid, sleepy and inanimate clodpoles waving at the same time their hands from side to side, in a pendulous manner, and seeming ready to faU into the arms of their equally lifeless partner. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 283 CHAPTER XVI. Without the slightest degree of reluctance we departed from Monte Hermosa, on a beau tiful morning, (the 8th inst.) Our road extended over that wUd desert track which stretches towards the Sierra de Placentia, and proved through out extremely bad and rugged. About twelve o'clock, after a march of two leagues and a half we got into Santivanez,and passing through that village, (which is a poor and miserable place,) we proceeded to Aggal, half a league further. Here we halted for the remainder of S84 . ADVENTURES OF the day. The following morning we resumed our journey, and travelled through some ro mantic scenery. About a mile from the vil lage of Gihon, we came to a remarkable old bridge, having but one arch, of immense span, its abutments being supported by the solid rocks, between whose steep and rugged sides flowed one of the tributary streams of the Alagon. The situation of this, extraordinary bridge, combined with the wildness of the neighbouring country, produced on our minds an effect as impressive as it was delightful. While crossing this dangerous pass, and look ing doAvn upon the torrent that rushed furious ly beneath, a terrific chasm presented itself, of at least a hundred feet in depth ; and, in con sequence of the slight elevation of the battle ments, it required some degree of caution to avoid an awful somerset into the dark abyss. The road, after we had safely cleared the stream, continued along the face of a craggy precipice, and at length brought us to a thick forest of oak and elm trees. * . We halted at a pretty A'illage called La Sacita CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 285"; where Ave had good quarters ; mine were at the * dwelling of a respectable tiller of the ground, named Bernardo Lopez, Avho not only gave me a hearty welcome to his abode, but regaled me with the best of every thing that his means ¦ could afford. His better half, our worthy pat- rona, had spent the day at a distant town, and as in her Avay home she had to pass through a lawless track, the anxiety of her family for her safe return was extreme ; Maricita, in partic ular, (the youngest daughter,) was quite un happy on the subject, and the tears ran quickly doAvn her very pretty and intelligent face. — The mother however soon came to the door, to the no small delight of the expectant party, and joy once more resumed its accustomed place at the social hearth of this contented family. The ¦ fire was replenished with an additional supply of fagots, and a plentiful store of plain though wholesome food was laid upon the table ; in the mean time, a tribe of labouring hinds and foresters joined the group, and taking up a position in the chimney corner, made a furious attack, like hungry wolves, upon the sausages 286 ADVENTURES OF with which their platters were abundantly sup plied. On the conclusion of their repast, the fair damsels of Bernardo beguiled the lazy hours with sundry cheerful ditties ; but from the liberal use of garlick, onions, and other delicious things by which their breath was per fumed, the air of those songs, at least in one sense, was anything but ambrosial, however affecting might be the words. We proceeded on our journey towards the mountains on the following day, and entered some very romantic scenery, unequalled in beauty, as well as grandeur of effect, by any through which we had hitherto travelled. When within a league of the Puerto de Banos, the promontory closes into a narrow pass, where a strong and almost impenetrable defile presents itself, and where a handful of resolute men could maintain the post against superior numbers. We entered the viUage of Banos, Avhere we lodged that night, and marched on the succeeding day to Bejar. After winding round the heights beyond Puerto de Banos, and about one league further, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 287 we perceived the town of Bejar, which, from its elevated site on a craggy range of hills, forms a most conspicuous feature in the surrounding scenery. The road became narrow as we ap proached the toAvn, conducting in a circuitous direction along the sides of the rocky precipice, having gained the ascent of which we arrived at the gates by 2 o'clock, and proceeded through a long street to the Plaza. The balconies on each side were lined with a pretty fair display of Spanish beauty, from whose sparkling black eyes we were assailed in every quarter. They all appeared ready to leap down from the keeping of their duennas, and were so overjoy ed at the sight of the first English soldiers that ever entered within their walls, that they con tinued one ceaseless cry of " Vive los Ingleses, viva, viva," at the same time waving handker chiefs, flags, and streamers, as we passed along. It was easy to account for the joyful recep tion which we got from the inhabitants. The French were in their immediate neighbourhood, the inhabitants of the town momentarily dread- 288 . ADVENTURES OF ed a visit, and therefore hailed us as sent to protect them from the plundering hands of the invaders. Bejar is situated on the crest of a barren and rocky chain of heights, branching from the mountains of Candelario. It is as large as Placentia, but differently planned, being com posed of one extensive range of houses, enclosed by Avails, noAV falling into ruin, yet stUl denot ing that the place must have been of some im portance, to have required the aid of defences such as these were, in former times. The approach is by means of a road or path way, difficult and bad, in consequence of the broken and irregular nature of the ground, and there are five entrances by arched gateways, leading from Salamanca, Alba, and other places. The houses are generally solid and well-built, forming a contrast with the streets, which are narrow, mean-looking, and most indifferently paved. The 50th, which since the death of Colonel Stewart, was commanded by Lieutenant . Colo nel I. B. Harrison, formed the garrison here, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 289 and the 7 1st Light Infantry, under Colonel Cadogan, and the 92nd under Colonel Came ron, Avere stationed at Banos, and the neigh bourhood. In the usual routine of friendly intercourse with the natives, we experienced a good deal of what might be termed a gay sort of life ; the intervals, however, and they were tolerably long, Avere fiUed up with duty enough to satisfy the most fastidious martinet, the Adjutant or Sergeant Major, with their sateUites, being perpetually at our skirts, at all hours, with some neAvly concocted order for our edification. The French troops, under Foy, being close at hand, AA-atching a favorable opportunity to pounce upon us when off our guard, it was quite requisite that we should be on the alert, and keep our eyes about us; idle time was, there-fore, a very rare commodity, so that betAveen pickets, outlying and inlying, parades, and other matters of an equally pleasing de scription, there was not any very great room left to enjoy that society AArhich, in a most in- A'iting way, offered its varied charms for our o 290 ADVENTURES OF gratification. By reason of the miserable state of the old defences of the town, that were tum bling about our ears, it became highly neces sary to guard other openings than those which the gates presented, and, accordingly, our working parties were busy night and day, in repairing, Avith loose stones and clay, the seve ral chasms and breaches made by time, that yawned in the ancient and crumbling walls. Here, and at all the other weaker points, were well armed parties stationed, and it was by no means so agreeable a lounge as that of Bondstreet, or PaU Mall, to be pacing up and down, like a hungry tiger in his cage, behind those tottering stockades, ever and anon peer ing above the top, to look out for squalls, or watch the motions of our vigilant opponents. It Avas truly no joke, or rather it was a cool one, to remain thus shivering in every limb, from the damp and frosty air of a wintry morning. The whole regiment, with the ex ception of the lame and lazy, was planted at their alarm post, one hour before daylight, and at the rendezvous did they remain, in awful CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 291 stillness, hardly wide awake, patiently to abide the moment of dismissal^ which usually came when the first glimmering of dawn was seen irt the horizon, or when a white horse was visible Avithin a nule. With faces exposed to the gentle influence of a sharp norwester, and suffering a purgatorial trial,, while straining our organs of vision to get a peep at the afore said quadruped, we might have waited till this hour, or even to the day of doom, for no such animal appeared^ HoAvever, on the futt assurance that our quorrdam neighbours had1 no desire to favour us with their company at that particular period, we were again despatched from the well known rendezvous, and, hasten ing to our quarters, we once more Unharnessed,. and lost no time in bundling into the warm nest from which we had so lately started. Among the varieties of our cantonment, assemblies were got up by those of the officers who never failed to levy war against melan choly or the spleen. Dancing was therefore the grand attraction, and the votaries of that science were amply gratified. To the lively o 2 292 ADVENTURES OF music of our band, the charming Senoritas figured away, in all the seducing attitudes of the bolero and the waltz. In conformity with their absurd and to us hateful usage, the fair damsels on their appear ance filed off right and left, in due order, and ranged themselves along the benches with a military precision, worthy of a better cause, taking their seats at such a distance that they seemed resolved, not even in the ball-room, " to trust their soft minutes with betraying man." It was soon manifest, however, that they had not abjured the other sex, for a volley of amo rous glances was darted at the forlorn and de serted males, who, taking consolation in noisy converse- with each other, Avere soon lost amid the smoke of their offensive cigars. With voices naturally sharp and loud, the Spanish Dons continued a palaver, that seemed as though it came through a speaking trumpet, and a Babylonish jargon arose on all sides, equalled only in the noisy purlieus of a bull-ring, while, in the mean time, when they chanced to notice any thing particularly striking or amus- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 293 ing in the dance, their delight and admiration were proclaimed by deafening shouts and vo ciferous yells. Then, again, they might be heard crying out for various changes in the figure, such as bolero ! bolero ! fandango ! se- guidiUo ! contradanza ! each bellowing for that which pleased his own fancy, to the utter dis comfiture of those who would have preferred the quiet pleasures of a less stormy region. Fortunately, however, for us, the brawlers were seized with a gambling mania, and a rush was immediately made by them to the folding doors of an adjoining chamber, where a table Avas ready, covered with dollars and doubloons. The sight of these glittering lures caused the heroes to rejoice, and attracted thereby, they crowded to the room where the blind goddess presided, leaving the party in the other to the full enjoyment of their harmless mirth, for the remainder of the night. The ladies were highly gratified at the de parture of the noisy crew, for, being vain of their graceful shapes and figures in the dance, they were happy to show them off to advantage, 294 ADVENTURES OF and to exhibit in the waltz, which, owing to the crowd, they were before unable to accom plish. Previous to the vanishing of the game sters, great was the jostling, pushing about, and trampling of toes, amidst the hooting and noise of the spectators. The palace of the Duke of Ossuna, near the Square, has been in its day a noble and spaci ous mansion. Situated on the most elevated part of the ridge, its conspicuous appearance and lofty towers impart an air of respectability to the town, that could not be derived from any other object. The sohd masonry of the outer walls, together with the massive staircase and iron balustrade, which time alone can destroy, remain in good preservation ; but the interior, as well as the ornamental work, are utterly in j?uins, and the mutUated shett is now the only monument of its original splendour. Round each of the windows, and the parapet of the tower, the stonework is curiously wrought in the form of a chain; and the bastion encircl ing each tower, together with the courtyard battlements, formed a defence in ancient times CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 295 that must have added considerably to the strength and importance of the budding. There is scarcely a day in the whole year which is not dedicated to some favourite Saint, and, when the day arrives, each inhabitant, whose name is that of his Saint, considers it necessary to Celebrate the great event by feasting all his friends and neighbours. St. Joseph was the protecting holy man of my landlord in Bejar, on which occasion he gave a grand entertain ment to all his acquaintance far and near. The ceremony began in the morning when the family arose, and continued throughout the day. The visitors, who came to offer their gratulations and respects to my worthy host and hostess, were received in the large recep tion chamber occupied by Don Pepe (Joseph), and were served with cakes, chocolate, and liqueurs, handed on plated or silver sarvers. Numbers came to pay their devoirs until the hour of dinner, tAvelve o'clock, when a glorious scene of gormandizing set in, which continued for some hours. The banquet was of a most sumptuous nature, and consisted chiefly (being 296 ADVENTURES OF Lent time), of fish, eggs, vegetables, and many other articles in that line, cooked up into an endless variety of forms and dishes, such as omelettes, olla-podridas, pucheros, and others, which it would be tedious to enumerate. Fruit and wines were likewise dispensed in abund ance, the former entering first; so that the dessert was served before the first course. To all these edibles the company did every justice, laying in with such good effect, that it would seem as if they were storing themselves with provender for a long campaign. After the siesta, which commenced at three o'clock, the remainder of the time was spent in loud con versation, in smoking, and drinking cold water. The supper, where a vigorously renewed attack Avas made by those hungry souls, was the last act. of this gluttonous display, after which those who could accomplish it roUed away to their respective dwellings. During the week preceding Lent, a sort of Carnival goes on throughout the town, for the entertainment of the people, who having a long fast before them give a loose rein to their car- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 297 nal appetites, and such an exhibition of buf foonery takes place, that a stranger would imagine that every fool in Fernando's wide dominions had congregated here on the occa sion. It is properly catted El tiempo del Trucco, (or time for play,) men, women, and children joining in the ridiculous farce, running to and fro through the streets like maniacs, with their faces blackened, or with masks, cutting all manner of capers, and playing every variety of antics and practical jokes upon each other. The chief amusement of the mob consists in fastening on rags, bits of paper, onion skins, artd other ornaments, to decorate the sternmost parts of the luckless wight to whom the hon ourable badges are appended. In order to complete the resemblance to the monkey race, a tail is sometimes added, giving them thereby a title to claim affinity also with their brothers of the long eared tribe. The delighted multi tude, calling out " rabo, rabo," throw pails of Avater from the windows on the addle pate of the unfortunate pedestrian in the street, and at the same time, logs of wood tied to ropes are o 5 2Q8 ¦ ADVENTURES OF suddenly let fall from the balconies, to startle the passing horse or mule, so that the eques-. triau is soon laid sprawling on the pavement. The gazjng crowd is thrown into raptures, whjje. they grin and shout at the wry faces made by the luckless object of their mirth. Thjs display of tom-foolery was carried on to the last moment; allowed by their reverend pastors. Besides the Rabo, they had another trick of casting about on every side a sort of weed call ed pffiujo, which stuck to the clothes like flour, powdering the garments in such a manner that the streets appeared as if a faU of snow had lately taken place. In this festival the Alcalde himself, as well as other Jacks in office, took an active part. His worship, at the head of a regiment of mountebanks, rigged out in a mot ley sort of costume, went skipping and danc ing along, while he led the noisy crew of tag- rag-and-bobtail to coUect money for the sup port of these absurd performances. My landlord, Don Pepe, was a worthy sort of a fettow, and gave me a good deal, of informal CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 299 tion regarding the town ; his brother, a mem ber of the tribe of clerigos, was also a fine hearty don, who had no objection to a spree ; whether in canonicals or not, he was particu larly fond of cards, and he frequently employ ed the intervals between his religious duties on the sabbath in a rubber or two with others of his fraternity, who seemed much more expert in that way than in their exercise before their congregations.— Gambling is their favourite pastime, and they enjoy it more on Sundays than they do on any other day. The chief employment here is carding and oleaning wool for the cloth manufactories. The females are constantly occupied in this business, assembled in groups at their doors and windows, picking the wool and getting it ready for the loom. The men appear to be an idle, good for no thing race, lounging about the squares, or bask ing in the sun with their constant companion the cigar; here, or, when the weather is bad, round the brassiero, they congregate in knots, holding disputations on the politics of the day, 300 ADVENTURES OF a subject that is everlastingly on their tapis. In the evening the aristocracy of the place hold their Tertullias, which is a meeting where DameTemperance'presides. Collectingapretty good number at the Caza of some comfortable Hidalgo, they carry on the old trade of gaming to some extent, the dons who do not play seating themselves with the senoras, a lively conversation is maintained, in which those damsels are by no means idle ; nor do they in this, or any other sort of joint stock company, prove themselves to be sleeping partners. At those Tertullias there is no refreshing beverage stronger than the chrystal fluid, to wash, down confectionary, orbolas (cakes), which are hand ed round on such occasions. The French, whose head quarters were at Salamanca, twelve leagues from Bejar, had for some time previous to our arrival threatened to pillage this town and levy contributions en the inhabitants ; but the British troops ap pearing, their plan was then disconcerted. — > Finding, hoAvever, that one regiment alone was to compose the garrison, their former inten- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 301, tions were revived, and they accordingly pre pared to make an immediate attack upon the. place. The information we gained on this subject (as already noticed) was the means of keeping us on the alert, so that we were quite ready to give them a warm reception, when-, ever they might feel disposed to pay their long promised visit. On the night of the 19th, when we Avere as sembled with the civilians at their public ball room, and were engaged in all the charming mazes of the dance, the harmony of our enter tainment was interrupted by the appearance, mal a-propos, of one of the staff officials, armed cap a pie, and with lengthened visage. With matters of importance written on his brow, this harbinger of Avarlike tidings, looking like a descendant of him who " drew Priam's cur tains in the dead of night," informed us that the enemy was rapidly advancing on the town, and that Ave must proceed, forthwith, to our respective stations at the wall. Nothing could exceed the general confusion that immediately prevailed. Merriment and 302 ADVENTURES OF joyous glee were in a moment transformed to hurry and vexation. Waltzes and Boleros vanished like a dream, their place being taken by long faces and grim despair. The fair and lovely senoritas, who just now were all smiles, laughter and good-humour, became, in the twinkling of an eye, downcast, forlorn and woebegone. Like so many terrified- rabbits, hunted from the warren, they ran screaming breathless and bonnetless in all directions, they knew not whither. The brUliant assem blage was soon dispersed, the scene being changed, as if by magic, into darkness, solitude and gloom. Meanwhile, we, whose trade was bloodshed, war and battery, proceeded to our natural oc cupation, and, being already accoutred for the field, were quickly at the rendezvous, prepared for a little morning sport with the veterans in our front. At an early hour General Foy, at the head of two thousand men, and a squadron of cavahy, was observed marching with hasty strides along the Salamanca road; and when it was clear CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 3Q3 day-light, their advanced guard, consisting of light troops, made a vigorous attack upon a strong picket of the 50th, commanded by Captain Benjamin Rowe, whieh had been post ed at a farm house on the road. Formidable by his numerical strength, the enemy pushed on regardless of att opposition, while the riflemen, stealing warily behind the rocks and broken ground, and concealed from our view by the surrounding mist and fog, penetrated almost to the very walls. With de termined obstinacy the picket kept its station, disputing every inch, until at length, overpow ered by superior numbers, it was compeUed to faU back on the reserve, posted near the town. WeU armed parties of our men were drawn up at all the most exposed and assailable posi tions, and the utmost vigilance was required on their part to guard against surprise ; the defences being so much extended, from their embracing the whole circuit of the scattered suburbs, that, had the French General made a bold and persevering assault, he must at least 304 ADVENTURES OF have gained access to the principal entrance of the place. To this point Foy pushed forward with a considerable body of his troops, who, flushed by the success of their first onset, moved daring ly forward, to force their way even to the principal street, and made a furious charge upon the party stationed at the gate. This small resolute band, detached from the main picket, Avas commanded by Lieutenant William Deighton, of the 50th grenadiers, who ranging his men across the passage, over which the archAvay Avas projected, resolved to defend to the utmost extremity the post at which he Avas stationed. Like a warrior of olden time this gaUant soldier, of colossal build and stature, (for he was more than six feet high,) seemed as though he were himself able to check the further progress of the foe. His orders for the firing to commence, was answered by a peal so well directed, and with such deadly aim, as made the Frenchmen waver and faU back. A repetition of this warm salutation was answer ed by a sharp and rattling volley from the rifles CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 303 of the Frenchmen ; Avith bravery worthy of a better cause, the assailants still pressed on, closing after the soldiers under Rowe, until they arrived within thirty or forty paces of the walls. Their spirit was, hoAvever, at length effectually damped by a repeated and destructive fire from our men, which sent them about like nine-pins, handling them so roughly, and finishing the morning's Avork by such an unmerciful coup de grace, that they could no longer hold their own. Having no poAver to rally, or withstand the treatment they met with, they collected the remnant of their scattered force, and forming into column, filed off with deliberate steps along the road, on which, puffed up by full as surance of success, they had so recently travelled. They were soon after joined by the remain der of the troops under Foy, who, seeing that all further efforts Avould be in vain, marched off to his former quarters, chagrined in no small degree at his defeat, and no doubt regretting that he had ventured to attack a garrison com posed of such tough materials. 306 ADVENTURES OF The joy of the inhabitants of Bejar, on the departure of the enemy, could be only equalled by their gratitude ; and, during the remainder of our stay among them, we were treated with a degree of kindness and hospitality, exceeding if possible all that we had hitherto experienced at their hands. Encouraged by these warm hearted people, as well as by the smiles of beauty, we could not have felt any duty too severe, that might have been a means of pro tecting them from the rude embraces of French men, and from the plunder and destruction of their town and families. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 307 CHAPTER XVII. On the 17th of April, 1813, we marched from Bejar ; I need not add that it was to the mutual regret of all parties; and, proceeding on the road leading to the Puerto de Banos, were cantoned that same night at the village of Banos near the pass. In the early part of May, the several divi sions of the English army broke up from their winter quarters, and, directing their course towards the northern provinces of Spain, com menced the last of the Peninsular Campaigns, namely, that celebrated one of 1813, during 308' ADVENTURES OF Avhich the French were altogether expelled from the country, and the British standard was planted triumphantly on the Pyrenees. On the 13th, the 2nd Division, under Lord Hill, moved forward. It was composed of the following regiments, the 28th, 29th, 31st, 34th, 39th, 50th, 57th, 66th, 7lst and 92nd. March ing by successive routes, in the course of which, through the beautiful valley of the Ebro, we met with no extraordinary event to intercept our progress, Ave arrived, about the middle of June, on the plains of Vittoria. At an early hour on the 21st of the month} the 1st Brigade, consisting of the 50th, 7lst and, 92nd regiments passed through the town of La Puebla, and halted at its extremity on the main road ; where, in consequence of in-r telligence received that morning, orders were giA'en for the troops to hold themseb/es in rea diness to meet the enemy in the course of the day. Renewed life and animation possessed our men, on the assurance that an opportunity was at hand for giving the adverse party a specif CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 309 men of their military skill, and likewise of es corting them safely across the Pyrenees. So unexpected, however, was the prospect of an immediate and warlike interview, that for some time the news was considered to be one of those false reports that are so often known to wing their flight about the line of march. But the tidings were soon confirmed by ocular de monstration ; for on our rounding the head of a lofty promontory, that overhung an angle of the road, the French army Avas exposed to view, ready cut and dry, draAvn up in order of battle, before Vittoria. Their several columns, form ed in dark masses, contrasted Avith the green verdure of the surrounding fields, produced an effect resembling that of a closely planted fo rest, extending over the countiy in front of that toAA*n. We had been travelling, for many days past, on short alloAvance, which, although it put us into excellent condition for a race, Avas by no means so favourable for a fonvard movement in the battle-field; moreover, there Avas no thing AAhatever forthcoming in the shape of 310 ADVENTURES OF provender, but, on the contrary, we ourselves were in a fair way of becoming food for gun powder. To deteriorate still more our solitary situation, the commissary was not to be found ; for, unfortunately, he either would not or could not keep up -with us ; and the consequence was, that Are had no means of supply, a few loaves of dingy bread, sparingly served out, being the sole contents of our miserable breakfast. It was therefore eAddent that starvation as weU as broken heads was to be the order of the day, and, should we escape the latter of these evils, the only chance to avoid the former Was to rummage the first haversack we could find, for the contents of which the owner • would most probably have no further occa sion. In this rueful state of things we again start ed, moving towards a chain of high mountains that bounded the western side of the valley. Having gained the termination of the level road, and arrived at the base of those heights, the brigade was again halted to obtain a little breathing time, as weU as to take a look at the CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 311" ammunition, examine the flints, and other pre liminary measures usual in such cases. During these proceedings, the. 7lst, com manded by Colonel Cadogan, pushed forward in double quick time ; ascending the steep and rugged side of the hilh they penetrated through the wood by which it was covered, and, open ing a brisk running fire right and left, dis lodged the enemy's tiraiUeurs from every cor ner of their strong position. While advancing on this enterprise, the Highlanders suffered considerable loss, from the cool and deliberate aim of the French rifles ; and their brave Colo nel received a mortal wound. Being immedi ately conveyed to the summit of the eminence, he was informed of the successful career of our troops, and of the good conduct of his own followers, and soon after, 'with mild com posure and tranquiUity of mind, he resigned his gallant spirit without a murmur. Cadogan, although a young man, was a most intelligent and experienced officer, and greatly valued by his noble relative WeUington, who placed so much confidence in his skul, 312 - ADVENTURES OF and formed so high an opinion of his military talents, that on every occasion of importance he was entrusted with command. The SOth and 92nd regiments, under the orders of Colonel Cameron of the latter, fol lowed the example of the 71st, and marched onward by the steep circuitous route which that corps had traversed; and, after some delay as AA~eU as difficulty in clearing through the heath and brushwood that overspread the pathAvay, succeeded at length in attaining the highest part of the eminence, from whence, after forming into column, they continued to advance along the edge of the precipice. On this elevation, raised far above the plain on Avhich the hostile armies Avere contending, we had almost a bird's eyfe view of the AA-hoIe field of action, spread out, as it were, like a map beneath our feet. The reverberation of the artillery among the rocks, by which Ave Avere surrounded, the echo of the continued rolling of musketry, the confused noise and din of the battle's turmoil, the varied bright and polished arms, accoutrements, and trap- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 313 pings of the combatants, as they shone resplendent in the rays of a briUiant sun, — the rapid movements of the Cavalry to and fro, — the manoeuvring of the infantiy, together with an endless variety of circumstances con nected Avith the pomp of war, formed on the whole a scene of awful grandeur, unrivaUed by any thing that the imagination of man could fancy. The enemy, meanwhile, made considerable resistance, while slowly retiring from hill to hiU, and his light troops, taking advantage of every means of cover, tormented us exceed ingly, and picked off a number of our best men and officers. The 7lst continued in ad vance, and crossed that part of the mountain Avhich was scooped out on one side into a deep ravine or hoUow, where, gaining the extreme point of a high and broken promontory, they took firm lodgment in a position, the rocks al most seeming to be formed by the hand of nature into a fortress of great strength. In this situation they were observed by a nume rous party of the French, who were posted p 314 ADVENTURES OF near them, on some commanding ground, and Avhom, from their dress and appearance, they mistook for Spanish troops. Finding this would do for a very good ruse de guerre, the treacherous deceit was kept up, and, as soon as the Highlanders had assembled within range, the enemy opened a raking and murderous volley upon their ranks; and so desperately did they maintain this fire, that, in a httle time, the gallant 7 1st was almost cut to pieces without being able to return a single shot. Being compelled to retire across the ravine, the remainder of the regiment fell back on the brigade. On our march across this ground, an inci dent occurred which made a deep impression on the minds of those who happened to be pre sent at the time. Across the pathway, and on either side, men and officers were lying, and one of the latter was extended on his face among the heath and brushwood, so close to Avhere we passed, that Major Malcolm Mac kenzie of the 70th, prompted as it were by in tuition, suddenly dismounted to ascertain who CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 315 was the individual. Stooping to observe the features, that were partly concealed by the long broom, he started back with grief and consternation, on perceiving that the young soldier, who had thus fatten an early victim, was his brother, Lieutenant Colin Mackenzie of the same regiment. The gaUant Major, thus taken -by surprise, was so much affected by the event that it was a considerable time before he recovered from the melancholy shock. He was himself killed in France, in the course of a few months, after having run an honourable career throughout the whole of the Peninsular war. They were both sons of Captain H. Mackenzie, the Pay master of the regiment, who was highly es teemed and respected by the 7lst, in AA'hich he had served many years. The Avhole line moving forward along the ridge, the entire extent of which by this time Avas carried, our troops foUowed the retiring enemy AA"ith steady perseverance, until aU op position having ceased throughout the field, a p 2 316 ADVENTURES OF general halt took place, and the firing was dis continued. The fugitives, in straggling bodies, fled pre cipitately towards the woods, through which the road to Salvatierra leads; their numbers being every moment swelled, and their con^ fusion rendered irretrievable, by fresh acces sions from Vittoria and other quarters, myriads of the routed foe covered the distant country as far as the eye could reach, their route being traceable by a continuous and lengthened train of baggage, guns, and wounded, as well as by the interminable multitude of followers, that are always to be found upon the skirts of a beaten, or in fact of any other, army. Of pri- soners taken the number was consequently great, and the whole of the baggage and antil- lery fell into our hands together AAith most of the wounded.* * While employed in some hot work upon the hill, I ob served an instance of " taking things coolly," even in the midst of fire, which is worthy of noticing here. One of our Captains, a brave, intrepid soldier from the other CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 317 We bivouacked in the woods to the North of Vittoria that night, in a condition quite enough to cool the mUitary ardour of the most ambiti ous warriors ; reduced to the borders of utter famine, and harassed by continued exertion. The successful issue of this day's operations acted, however, as a balm for att our troubles, and although it furnished not our humble board, was nevertheless a means of encourage ment, which served to banish the desponding thoughts that, under other circumstances, might have weighed us down. side of the Tweed, (who had been so often in the smoke that he seemed only in his proper element when the balls were whizzing past his grisly locks, and the music of great guns was sounding in his ears,) happened to get a crack in the arm, of so violent a nature as to fracture the bone. Regardless of the wound, while the blood was streaming fast, he looked down sorrowfully on the damage effected on his precious garment, the object of his tenderest care, which had so often been wheeled to the right about, that with respect to it, the old adage of " one good turn deserves another" was virtually at tended to, and, after eyeing wistfully the awful breach, with greater horror than he would the breach of Badajos, or any other he was about to storm, he cast an angry glance towards that quarter from whence the missile was sent, and exclaimed, in none of the softest tones, as though he wished the whole French army might hear his voice, " Dom the fellows, they've spoiled my cott !" 318 ADVENTURES OF The casualties in the 1st brigade were not of great extent, compared with those of others in the field. Our business was chiefly on the heights; we were therefore not so much ex posed to the fire of cannon as those who were engaged upon the plain. The light troops bore the heat and burthen of the day, getting the hardest knocks, whUe the battalions acting in support and in reserve, were much more gently dealt with. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 319" CHAPTER XVIII. On the 22nd of June, we pursued our journey on the road by Avhich the fragments of Jour- dan's army had retreated, and, passing through Salvatierra and other towns, we arrived before Pampeluna, early in July. Soon after this we entered the vaUey of Bastan, situated on the boundaries of the Lower Pyrenees. While we were advancing towards the Pyre nees, a most tremendous storm burst upon the column, as it Avas marching over the. crest of a lofty ridge. The thunder rolled in fearful peals, and the forked lightning, attracted by 320 ADVENTURES OF the polished fire-arms and bayonet points, flashed about our heads in an awful manner, j threatening destruction to the troops. Lieut. Masterman of the 34th was struck by the elec tric fluid, with such fatal violence that his death was instantaneous; his features scorched and blackened, and his body burnt almost to a cinder, presented a frightful spectacle as he lay extended on the road. Here commenced that system of manoeuvr ing on the enemy's flanks, by which, day after day, we forced him to retire from the com manding ground where he had been posted Instead of running directly into the lion's mouth, we paid our respects in a more cautious manner. The light troops were dispatched, and, taking a widely extended circuit right and left, closed in upon the wings of the adverse party, threatening their communication with the rear. The French, instead of malting any resistance in these wfld and thickly Avooded glens> adopted a more prudent fine of conduct, and, not having any particular appetite for cold steel, scampered off to the next range of CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 321 heights at the moment when we expected to have had a brush, leaving us, by way of a legacy, their half extinguished fires, their broken huts, and aU the rubbish of a deserted camp. Agreeable to this novel mode of tactics, Avliich was the standing, or rather the charing, order of the day, our divisions proceeded on- Avard, the advanced guard of each leading into a difficult country, the roads winding through vast chasms and narrow defiles, by which the loAver branches, of the Pyrenean chain are intersected. As we approached the more lofty range,. we passed through Lanz, Erruita, Elisonda, and other clean and well inhabited places, our route still penetrating through deep ravines, and bending with the sinuous current of the Up^ per Bidassoa river, by AA'hich the verdant fields and pasture lands are fertilized. The whole extent of the vale of BastaU pre^ sents, on every side, the most:beautiful scenery- that can be imagined. The green and richly cuftiA-ated meadows, as contrasted with the 322 ADVENTURES OP naked and inaccessible heights by which they are surrounded, produce an effect that renders the appearance of the landscape at once im pressive and delightful. The lover of nature in its varied and romantic forms might here enjoy a prospect, of which it would be impos sible by words to convey even a limited idea. On the 8th of July, 1813, the 1st Brigade of the 2nd Division, marched into EBsonda, and, proceeding forward for about a league, halted on the brow of an elevated ridge, from the summit of which the ground descended in a slope, thinly covered with woods, to the ex tremity of our position. The 7 1st and 92nd were encamped on the main passes of the mountain, to the left of the Bayonne road ; and the 50th Avas bivouacked among some trees, about a mile to the right of the corps. The enemy at this period having been driven from aU the roads leading across the Pyrenees, came to a stand on a range of strong hUls, commanding the principal ap proaches into France. Marshal Soult, their general in chief, disap- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 323 pointed and mortified at thus being defeated and expeUed from the Peninsula, determined to make one last and desperate effort to regain a footing in that country ; he therefore made preparations for a grand attack upon our lines, and put his threat in execution on the 25th of the month. The heights, in every direction, were covered by the French encampments, in which we could discern large bodies of their troops assembling. About this time, while we were in the enjoy ment of our bivouac and the invigorating influ ence of the mountain air, an amusing scene' took place in the lines of the 50th. In the middle of one of the dark nights, during our station on the hill, a dreadful storm came on, upsetting huts, AvigAvams, and all the parapher nalia of our camp. During ' the commotion, the mules and other baggage animals, terrified by the howling of the wind, broke loose from their moorings, took flight in every direction, and getting entangled among the tent cords they cast us all adrift. BeAvildered amidst the gloom, and dreaming of war's alarms, it seemed 324 ADVENTURES OF as though the French were in among us, or that a caravan of wUd beasts was set at liberty. Such beUowing, screams and shouting from right to left, at once resounded throughout the hiU, that the storm was quiet in comparison. Drums and bugles giving the alarm, accompa nied by thebrayingof a hundred jack^asses,with the clamorous tongues of men, women and dogs, combined to produce an opera, or.rather, a tragi-comedy, of so ludicrous a nature as was never witnessed on the Pyrenees before. — In a state of deroi-nudity, (finding that no tangible enemy was in the field,) each, returned to the wreck of his shattered dormitory, where, endeavouring to crouch beneath the weU- drenched canvass, or the more wretched shel ter of the trees, we lay in torpid misery, wait ing patiently the return Of day. The morning of the 25th of July was ushered in by a bright sun, and other favourable ap pearances, denoting the continuance of fine weather. . About noon inteUigence came that the enemy Avas advancing in strong force upon the pickets ; in a few minutes the whole of our CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 325 line was formed, and the 50th, 71 st and 92nd drew up on the highest part of the ridge. — From thence were perceived large bodies, co vered by a host of light troops, rapidly driv ing in our outposts. The pickets, together with the 34th regiment, under the command of Colonel Fenwick, of that corps, immediately occupied some elevated rocks, on the right of our position. Soult, observing with his expe rienced eye that this important post was not sufficiently strengthened, sent a number of his men to dislodge our soldiers from the spot.— After a sharp and sanguinary contest, (Colonel Fenwick being severely wounded,) our troops descended from the hill, and fell back Avith con siderable loss upon the brigade. By this time the French in sohd masses were gaining fast the steep sides of the mountain, preceded by a swarm of riflemen, clambering the ascent like vrild cats, and rushing on with incredible gal lantry towards the summit, in order to gain a lodgment there. Having accomplished this,' and the whole extent of our fine being under the range of fire, Ave were exposed to a most 326 ADVENTURES OF destructive shower; the balls whistling past our ears, like hail stones driven in a storm, tumbled our men in every direction. Resist ance now was unavailing against such oddsy and, although an incessant peal of musketry. was opened on the enemy, our situation was- no longer tenable, and we retired upon the next height, leaving many killed and wounded on the ground.* Our right wing suffered greatly on this oc casion, most of the grenadiers were cut off, and their leader, Captain William Ambrose, was mortally wounded in the groin ; among the slain was likewise Lieutenant WiUiam Deighton, of the same company, a native of Cumberland, who so gaUantly defended his post at the gates of Bejar, and whose conduct at all times Avas that of a cool and intrepid soldier. Ensigns Williams and White, were also killed * Colonel Fenwick was, on his return to England, appointed Governor of Pendennis Castle, where he died a few years since from the consequences of his wound. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 327 — the former carried the King's Colours, which falling with him, another officer, who observed the circumstance, conveyed them to a place of safety ; Williams was a young officer who vo lunteered with men from the Warwickshire militia, and had scarcely recovered from a wound received at Vittoria — White had been for many years our Quarter Master Sergeant, and in consequence of his merit, he had lately been promoted in the regiment ; he was a man advanced in life, and an excellent worthy cha racter, esteemed by us all. The conduct of Lieutenant Charles BroAvn of the light company was conspicuous ; seeing the Frenchmen pressing closely in, he Avas deter mined to lend a hand in giving them a check, in a manner which he could not accomplish with the feeble weapon which he wielded ; he there fore seized a musket, (plenty of which were scattered about), and extending himself upon a bank of earth, let fly with such deliberate aim, that many of the Frenchmen were effectually stopped in their career. Brown was an ex- ceUent shot, and enjoyed the thing amazingly,- 328 ADVENTURES OF appearing quite in his element, going about his work as methodically as if he were shooting pai'tridges or wild ducks, shewing a degree of skill worthy of the most practised amateur. This was the only instance of the kind that ever came within my observation, and can be justified only by the strong desire a sports man, (for he was a zealous son of Nimrod), had to indulge his ruling passion ; for officers, in general, have too much to attend to, while in action, and therefore could not,, were they so inclined, indulge their fancy in that way. The Lieutenant joined us from the East Middlesex militia, from which he brought a number of volunteers. He was an active good- looking follow, and a most agreeable com panion. He was afterwards severely wounded, and retired on half-pay to enjoy a pension which he very deservedly obtained. Having once more to abandon our position, the 50th and 39th fell back upon that on which the 92nd was drawn up. O'Callaghan, amidst the din of arms, calling to his soldiers with the tones of a Stentor, " steady 39th ordinary time !" these CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 329 corps actually retired Avith the most deliberate pace, as if upon parade. The Highlanders, under Cameron, stood firm, and maintained their post with determin- edbraveryuntil their ammunition was expended, Avhen, borne down by legions, the remnant of these devoted Northerns Avithdrew to the contiguous hill. — Their Colonel, having had two horses shot under him, and being twice severely wounded, was forced to quit the field.* Captain Bevan, of the 92nd Grenadiers, was AAounded at the same time, as well as many other officers of that corps. When the 50th was again formed on the hill to which they had retired, they were sup ported by the 39th, with the Hon. Colonel O'Callaghan at their head. Both these corps poured in a tremendous Volley from right and left, while O'CaUaghan, a stern Hibernian, by * Colonel Cameron commanded the 92nd, throughout the whole Peninsular war, with honor to himself and to his regiment. He fell nobly, at Quatre Bras, in the centre of a square which was formed to repel a strong body of French cavalry. 330 ADVENTURES OF his own example, stimulated his men to per^ sonal acts of Aralour. The enemy, meanwhile, nothing daunted by this destructive fire, pushed forward with re newed exertion, urged on by the spirited ex hortations and conduct of their officers. The latter with signal courage took the lead, and Avaved caps or cloaks with one hand, while. Avith the other they brandished their sabres in the air, shouting out — " Vive L'Empereur ! en avant ! mes enfans !" Thus gallantly head ed and additionally animated, drums beating and trumpets sounding, the columns rushed on with wild and desperate fury. While the 50th Avas acting in support of the 92nd, Colonel Charles HiU of the former Avas- struck in the groin by a ^pent ball ; and had scarcely recovered from thetmock, Avhen ano ther hit him on the. forehead, which caused him at once to fall,' to all appearance mortally Avounded, and with deep concern his soldiers beheld him carried off the field ; the command devolving on Major Thomas Dundass Campbell. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 331 The increasing masses of the enemy bore down all before them ; and the 50th and 92nd, the latter then commanded by Major Mitchell, retiring from hill to hiU, defending with obsti nate resistance every inch of ground, halted about five o'clock in the evening on the brow of a lofty and precipitous rock, the highest point of the lower Pyrenees, and to the left of the pass of Maya. The 7 1st, whose encamp ment we had crossed, suffered considerably while covering this movement, and Avas at length compeUed to join the rest of the Brigade. Elated by the issue of their formidable at tacks, our adversaries persevered in the ardu ous struggle, to gain the passes, and, although at the expence of considerable numbers, still kept possession of every piece of ground by which those passes were commanded. Their riflemen, Avith unparalleled boldness ferretting their way within less than pistol shot of Avhere we stood, by a rambling fire did very great execution throughout our already diminished ranks. With such precision did those experi- 332 ADVENTURES OF enced artists do their duty that very many of our companions were killed or wounded on this height. A party of the officers of the 50th, Avho were collected in a knot, discussing the affairs of the eventful day, were quickly seen by those marksmen, who, from behind the rocks, dispatched with deadly aim a feAv rifle missiles, each with its billet; and the balls were so faithful to their errand that the con gress was soon dissolved, some of the members, being sent to " that bourne from which no traveller returns," and the remainder wounded. Among those Avho fell on this occasion, Avas Lieutenant Hugh Birchall of the 4th battalion company, which he had commanded for some time. Having fallen ill, he was in his bed at Elisonda, when the battle commenced, and hearing the noise of musketry, he thought that something Avas going forward in the lines, in Avhich he ought to bear a part. With a mind endued AAith strength superior to that of his Aveakly frame, he arose from the couch of sick ness, and calling all the vigour that he could muster to his aid, tottered with feeble pace to CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 333 the field of action, arriving at a late hour upon the hill. Exhausted, pale, and like one risen from the dead, he resumed his former place, and scarcely had he joined the group assembled in the front, when, by a fatal bullet, this spiri ted young man was numbered with the slain. In crossing the place where the 7 1st had been encamped, a party of the enemy pitched a tent belonging to that corps, and, forming in a ring about this trophy, made the hills echo with their shouts of triumph. The 82nd and other regiments coming up at that period soon obliged them to change the notes of their song, and put an effectual damper on their pastime. The Brigade of General Barnes and some German troops, arriving opportunely to support the 82nd, made a desperate charge upon them, and folloAving up this bold attack drove them completely across the pass, and back to the ground where they had been posted.— No further efforts were made on their part to renew the contests — Had there been sufficient time the 7th division would have totally ex- 334 ADVENTURES OF pelled them from the mountains, but daylight failing brought to a conclusion one of the most sanguinaiy and hard fought battles recorded in the annals of the Peninsular war. The 50th lost a considerable number of men in this action ; and the following officers Avere among the killed and wounded : killed — Cap tain Wm. Ambrose, Lieutenant W. Deighton, Grenadiers, Ensign Williams, Ensign White : wounded — Lieutenant Colonel C. HU1,* Cap tain Charles Grant, Light Company; Roger North, Lieutenants McDonald, Patterson, NoAvlan and Jones; Ensigns CoUins and Bateman. In consequence of the right of the line at Roncesvalles having been carried by a superior force, and also by reason of the loss sustained, the 2nd and 7th divisions, cooperating Avith the rest of the army, retired on the night of * It was at first supposed that Colonel Hill was killed, and he was returned on that list, but after a most singular recovery, he was able to join the regiment previous to their embarkation for England. Captain Grant had his leg amputated, but con tinued in full pay. Lieutenant McDonald was afterwards killed at Aire, in France. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 335 the 25th, and morning of the 26th of July, and after passing along the road that leads through the Valley of Bastan, they formed on the hUls in front of Erruita. Here the British made a determined stand, beat the enemy back, and followed up the bloAV with so much vigour that he was completely routed, driven through att the passes, and forced once more to take refuge in his OAvn country. 336 ADVENTURES OF CHAPTER XIX. The writer of this narrative being Avounded, he joined the long train of maimed and muti lated aspirants for honour and glory, who AAen- ded their way sloAvly and with painful steps to the City of Vittoria, where the principal hos pital stations for the army were established. The cavalcade was not of that description AAhich Avill excite any pleasurable emotions in the mind ; those of despondency were the most prevailing, which the departure from our brother soldiers Avas not in any degree calcu lated to diminish. HoAvever, this being att the CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 337 " fortune of war," we jogged along patiently, some on mules, others on waggons, and not a few on the humble jackass, forming on the whole a procession of so mptley and varied a character that, by the time we reached our journey's end, we were not unlike Sir John FalstafFs recruits, with whom he was ashamed to enter Coventry, We cut a most interesting appearance, some with heads tied up, and some with limbs, as we made our entre at a funereal pace, exhausted and chopfallen, loaded with as plentiful a supply of fame as the most zea lous amateur could desire. Nothing could ex ceed the anxiety depicted in the countenances of those who had been in Vittoria, since the battle there. So many vague reports had been circulated with regard to the army, that they Avere unacquainted Avith the true state of things, and hastened to meet the traveUers, as they approached the town, and with deeply interested looks enquired the fate of their brave companions in the field. Accompanied by our friends, who kindly sympathized with us, each of us repaired to his proper quarters. Q 338 " ADVENTURES OF Mine were at the house of a respectable look ing man, who, though a Spaniard, proved by his manner and conduct that in his heart he Was a Frenchman. To his spouse, a dame not Unworthy of so treacherous a helpmate, our application for any means of comfort or ac commodation was of no avail, and beyond the luxury of a hard mattress, upon a harder floor;, with bare waUs to look at, neither I, nor any of the luckless cavaliers that were biUetted under the roof of these inhospitable people, could obtain any thing whatever. Los Franceses were the favourites ; and as for the English, our patron VouIdhaVe rejoiced at their expulsion from the country. Doubt- Iessj this partisan held a different style of lan guage, when he was informed, that his very particular friends were completely ousted from every part of Spain. In a front room of this mansion, the occupant was Lieut. Alexander H. Pattison of the 74th regiment, who was se verely wounded at Vittoria, and whose society "and conversation contributed greatly to relieve the tedium of our solitary lodging. Pattison CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 339 was above seven years eldest lieutenant in the 74th, and became, in the course of time, Lieut. Colonel of the 2nd West India Regiment, in the command of which he died at the Bahamas. Captain Gough, of the 68th, was quartered in the next house, where we passed some plea sant days, whUe comparing notes on the sub ject of our late adventures. Poor Gough I never saw again. He Avas a passenger from America, (where his regiment was quartered), in the Union Packet, which was shipwrecked off the coast of Ireland, and was among,those who unfortunately perished. Vittoria is a weU built and populous city, with regular streets, and a handsome Square. ¦ The country around is abundant in aU the productions of so fine a climate, and did not seem to have experienced any of those evils incident to war. The inhabitants in general treated the British officers with civility, but many were inwardly our enemies, Some time after our arrival, however, they thought it better policy to affect a, degree of reverence for Q 2 340 ADVENTURES OF us, and make wondrous professions, of the sin cerity of which we had certain doubts. It was during our stay here, that the Honor able Captain Gore, of the 94th regiment, was put to death by a party sent to force an en trance into his quarters, in order to convey from thence a lovely and interesting damsel, whom that officer had taken under his protec tion. Of this tragical event there has been so many different versions, -that, if I were to relate the particulars as reported at the -time, the ac count would probably vary from others that were published. I shall therefore forbear from any detaU of the painful and melancholy narra tive. The gallant Captain was certainly im prudent in resisting the Spanish authorities. Knowing as he did the prejudices of the coun try, the results of the iUfated attachment mignt have easUy been foreseen ; for, thus to get in volved so seriously with a fair Senorita could not fail to exasperate and excite the vengeance of her family. — The unfortunate affair was truly to be deplored on every account. Gore was . a fine promising young man, and his in- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 341. amorata (since entombed within a convent), Avas beautiful. The good people of Vittoria enjoyed them selves, while we remained, as much as any other set of mortals in this transitory state of being. Apparently indifferent as to what might become of their politics, they assembled, during the cool and refreshing hours of evening, in groups around the doors, making merry among each other with lively chattering, and peals of laughter, that flew, in a sort of running fire, from one end of the city to the other. About this time, the celebration of a grand festival, in honour of one of their numerous saints, was going forward. During its conti nuance, the place was in a state of noisy up roar, and the people were infected with a sort of dancing mania, enough to gladden the heart of St. Vitus himself. We were insufferably tormented with the unmerciful squealing of fifes, and upon the parchment they were per petually drumming in our ears. Between the hours of feasting, the towns- 342T'. ADVENTURES OF " people, of all ranks and'ages, sallied from their- dwellings; old and young, rich and poor, were on the pave, from the chUd in leading strings, to the winkled hag' of eighty, aU afflicted wittr flie mania. On a signal for a general ballet, and the music striking up, the crazy multitude, electrified in every limb, commenced an exhi bition bf gymnastics unequalled by the most skilful artist, sufficient to make even an ancho rite grin and stare. 1% was quite amusing to see the aged spinster, whose charms were faded by the hand of time, with pinioned elbows, tripping it with an antiquated beau; the withered gfandame hobbling on her feeble pius to some venerable don; and the smirking lass with amorous eye, and attitudes enticing, figuring away -with a gallant cavaleiro. It was, in short, a most ridiculous display of asses in human form. The Shakers of America, or the dancing Dervishes of Turkey, were in cornpar rison tame. Pushing, jostling, screaming, and ogling, seemed to be all the mode throughout the motley crowd, so that were a stranger sud- CAPTAIN PATTERSON- 343^ denly to make his appearance, he would fancyj that the inmates of some lunatic asylum had; been liberated, and wereplaying off their antics-. through the town. Ever and anon, some would retire -within their doors, but other fools sup-) plied their place, and im single ranks arrayed on. either side the street, like, those drawn -up: in. a country dance, they exhibited in a [ style! that Ve&tris might '.have wondered at. ' 3 r . There was a, curious medley of. mirth and sadness throughout the city, which to the sufferer and the invalid was but a mockery of his woes. Quietness and peace, would haver been far more grateful than such Ultimed,. un-> welcome and vociferous revels. Early in September, 1813, accompanied by Lieutenant Rhodes, of the 39th regiment, I set out from Vittoria, on the route to Bilboa, for the purpose of embarking for England. Proceeding; towards the northern Provincesy we arrived afc Tolosa on the foUoAving day, where we remain-? ed one night. The landlord of the posada at; which we brought up, was a very humorous; S44 ADVENTURES OF character, and also an extremely odd fish ; but he was one who had an eye to business, taking good care of the main chance, for, hearing of the success of the British arms, and that some of the troops were likely to pass that Way, he fitted up his hotel in good style, and went to such expense, that it would have been a pity had he been disappointed. With regard to the. exterior of his premises, he was determined to make a display of his loyalty, and therefore put up the sign of Fernando Settimo, whose iigly countenance was no great attraction to the traveller. By his conversation, in a sort of mongrel Anglo-Spanish dialect, one would suppose that he was a veritable patriot, and that he reverenced the English. The inscrip tion on his signboard, however, seemed to put a. different face on the matter ; for by his own shewing it would appear that upon the thick skull of this worthy the organ of destructive- ness was strongly marked, or, in other words, that he was neither more nor less than a can nibal. The passenger, therefore, might wett CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 34'5 start with horror, on perusing the aforesaid notice, which by the arrangement of the painter, ran thus : "FRANCISCO PEREZ, ESTALAGEM FOR EATING GENTLEMEN LODGED WITHIN." Poor Francisco was evidently not in the school master's line of march ; for in his attempt at an English sign, by not minding his own stops, he publickly forewarned all who might be journeying that way, that their stops in this world should not be of long duration. Giving nevertheless this, honest Spaniard full credit for all his promises of civility, and having no particular dread of being hashed up into minced meat, or an oUa-podrida, we lodged ourselves in his hostelry, happy, after a long and fatiguing map ch, to get a place of rest, even under such inauspicious circumstances. We arrived at BUboa in a. few days, having had rather a pleasant though protracted jour ney. Rhodes being a good travelling com-* 34'6f ADVENTURES OF panion, we got on smoothly enough^ with a certain independance of character very much to be envied ; for as we were entirely out of the range of adjutants, orderly books^ and other such unfashionable concerns, we felt like gen tlemen at large, with light hearts, and, not being overburdened with cash, with still lighter pockets. As to our worldly goods and chattels, we might apply to ourselves Jack's favourite ditty. " A handkerchief held all the treasure I had, Which over my shoulder I threw," &c. , We found at Bilboa much kindness and hos pitality, and were lodged in quarters that a prime minister might have envied. Like other large communities, the place had a lively and social aspect, which appearance was considera bly improved by fresh importations of John Newcomes from England, in search of laurels and broken pates, as well as hard goers from the army, with their brows aheady crowned, but minus in the usual complement of legs and arms. The weather proved unfavourable, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 34f: and prevented our seeing the lions of the place, but, as those are not generaUy numerous or; curious in. the Spanish towns,, our loss was, nothing to grieve about,' nor do I< think that, had. we seen them, the, description would have. been either amusing or edifying. .."> ; ':> r . On the 29th of September, we entered the; smaU sea-port of Passages, having, in our route, from Bilboa,, lodged in several goad looking. places. After concluding every arrangement Avith regard to our affairs, we embarked on the 5-th of October, in a small brig, bound for Plymouth, taking final leave of a .country Avhere, for so long a period, we had been en gaged in all varieties of campaigning, and Avhere,, amidst the toils and dangers of our wandering, life, we experienced some happy; days, with so much of unmingled pleasure, that,, although Ave were proceeding, homeward to> our beloved native land, more of sadness than of joy was felt when parting from the shore. Before we got out into the open sea, we sailed through an intricate and narrow passage, which seemed, as it were, a natural fissure of 348 ADVENTURES OF tremendous depth, violently rent asunder, by earthquake or volcanic agency, through the steep and precipitous mountain ridge by whioh this part of the coast is bound. The scenery, in the midst of the close and dangerous channel, was of a desolate character. There was no apparent means of egress from the dark and gloomy chasm, walled in on either side by huge rocks, rising far above the topmast head, and the hazardous attempt to steer a vessel through in stormy weather, would prove fatal to those who might rashly undertake the perilous na vigation. Our voyage across the Bay of Biscay was unattended with any thing remarkable or un common, and was in every way as favourable as could be wished. In about five days we land ed at Plymouth, rejoicing at the idea of being once more on the shores of Britain. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 349 CHAPTER XX. Although I was unfortunately deprived of knowing by personal observation the move ments of the 50th, I have, however, good authority for stating an outline of their pro ceedings. Fighting their way as usual, they were present in everything that was going on during the ensuing campaign, and, after lending a hand in drumming the enemy out of the Pyrenees, they carried the British colours into France, where they performed a very dis tinguished part, at the passage of the Nive and the Adour. They were also shortly engaged 350 ADVENTURES OF , at Orthes, Tarbes, Aire, and other places ; in short, whenever there was anything to be done in this line of business, the old boys were sure to be in the thick of it. While they were advancing to the attack, at Aire, the pickets were in front, skirmishing with the French light troops,- covered by a deep ditch, or breast-work, above which the instant one of our party attempted to shew his head, he was Avithout ceremony popped off. This sort of wholesale slaying was too much of a good thing, and kindled up the wrath of Lieutenant Duncan McDonald, a fiery little North-Briton, who, getting rather impatient and fidgety, catted on his men to foUow him, in order to have a dash at those felloAvs, who were thus making their comrades food for croAvs. As he was jumping across the top of the ditch into the field, and before a single man had time to join him, he was struck by a rifle ball, and fell dead upon the spot. The soldiers, immediately rushing forward, took ample vengeance fojs- the loss we had sustained, and charged the marksmen with such, effect CAPTAIN PATTERSQN. 351 that they took to flight in all directions, evacu ating entirely the town and neighbourhood. In the absence of Colonel HiU, Brevet Lieu tenant Colonel Harrison commanded the 50th> and on every occasion the gaUantry of this officer was conspicuous, and it is remarkable3 that in the midst of all that fighting he never received the slightest wound. Brevet Major W. A. Gordon, 50tb, Avas en trusted with the command of the advance battalions in forcing the passage of the Nive> and for his bravery and intrepid conduct on that service he was promoted to the rank of Lieutenant Colonel. Among those Avho fell dangerously wounded on the advance to Bayonne, was Captain Ro bert Verney Lovett ; — he died in England, in consequence of the injury he received, and be ing a man of social and convivial qualities he was much regretted. The following officers of the 50th were kill ed, Avounded, or taken prisoners, from the bat tles in the Pyrenees to the termination of the war in France: M/ecf^Lieutenant and Ad- 352 ADVENTURES OF jutant William Myles ; Lieutenant and Adju tant Duncan McDonald — wounded* — Captain H. Custance, Captain R. V. Lovett; Lieuten ant R. Keddle ; Ensign Sawkings — missing — .' Lieutenant General Bartley — prisoner Lieuten ant General Power.* In the course of these campaigns, I had many opportunities of estimating the comparative merits of English, Scotch and Irish soldiers, of which there has been a good deal said, and on Avhich there is so much difference of opinion, that it seems difficult to arrive at any truth upon the subject. Military men alone can form any idea of what those soldiers can ac= complish. For my part, I believe, that in one essential point, that is, with regard to courage, there is not the slightest shade of difference ; at least I never could observe any, the men of * Myles was wounded in the ancle, but died soon after of locked jaw ; he was an active and zealous officer, and a quiet inoffensive man. Duncan McDonald was killed at Aire. Ked dle died in Enniskillen. Power on half-pay. Custance is now Lieutenant Colonel, commanding the 9th Regiment. Sawkins, leg amputated. Lovett died in England, hartley, Pay Mas ter 50th, in New South Wales. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 353 each nation shoAving themselves possessed of a pretty equal share of the commodity in ques tion, or what is usually called mettle. It is merely as to temper and disposition, in parti cular situations, that they may sometimes vary. Simply speaking, were it necessary to employ a body of troops upon a service where they might be much exposed to fire, or which required a great degree of cool and steady firmness to effect the object of their Chief, whUe at the same time they were to be engaged with an ob stinate foe, and that for a continuance, I should certainly select the Englishman, who performs his duty weU, because he knows of nothing but obedience. There is, in general, no particular ly actuating principal in him but this. With reference to his friends and country, John Bull hardly ever thinks upon the subject ; he is not a very meditative animal, but pursues his straight forward course without flinching, and with a zealous desire to acquire the good opin ion of his officers immediately around him, whose example he will foUow even to the 354 ADVENTURES OF breach. In quarters there are none more easUy managed, and as for good order and cleanlineBS of person, they surpass the soldiers of every country. They likewise display much of per sonal A'igour, being strong, athletic and AveU-, formed, so that wheH a charge is to be made, the bayonet in their hands becomes a most dangerous weapon, the effect of Avhich has been severely felt by their enemies in every corner of the globe. Were I at liberty to choose a party upon whose steadiness in camp and quarters, and upon whose fidelity to orders, I might depend, and who, from love of country, take pride. in the most implicit obedience to their officers, even whUe suffering aU the miseries of hard service, cold and famine, commend me to the Scotch. Their esprit de corps, and faithfuL attachment to their chiefs and clans, is prover bial, and form the actuating powers of influence with them, prompting them to foUow their leaders, even " to the cannon's mouth," while the pibroch is ringing in their ears. Talk to a Highlander of his heaths and mountains, and CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 355 remind him of his honour, his blood gets up, and he will burn with ardour to signalize him self for the honour of his people. To learn the character of the Scotch regiments, look to the page of history. Now for the Hibernian — Come along, my lads ! hurrah ! — They may well be called rough and ready follows ; not over solicitous about personal appearance, they use no unne cessary delay about the toUet, and are therefore always at hand, and prepared for a start, at any moment or on any duty, when their ser vices may be -wanted. Is there a fort to be stormed, or a castle watt to be escaladed, then, they are the boys for your work. Only let them have a little word of encouragement, ac companied, (if you like), with a smaU drop, " just to keep the could out of their stomachs," by way of priming, arid they will assault a battery bristled with cannon. As for behaviour* in quarters, they are now and then a tittle un ruly to be sure, for Pat, when he gets a taste of the creator, is rather a pugnacious being* The* Irishmen are, however, firm soldiers in the: 356 ADVENTURES OF field, and nothing can match them in the bivouac, where their fertile genius comes into play; while the veterans of other corps are gazing about them, they have got their huts made, their wood cut, and may be seen scamp ering all over the country, in search of att the good things that may be had for love or money — " Pat is the fellow that lives on his pay, And spends half a crown out of sixpence a-day." The 3rd division, (Sir Thomas Picton's), was called the fighting division. It Was chiefly composed of Irishmen. This is quite as much as if volumes were written on the subject; Look to the 87th at Barrosa, the 88th at Bada jos, the 27th and 45th every where. More need not be said. The German troops are superior to any I ever met with for strict attention to duty. They are determined, brave, and cool in the hour of battle ; and, should they be entrusted with the out-posts, the camp may sleep in Safety, and in full assurance of being vigilantly CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 357 Avatched. — Hardy and inflexible, they conform under any state of things to their commanders, at whose wttl they move with the regularity of a piece of mechanism. There was a company of the 60th rifles attached to our Brigade, who were all Ger mans. They were commanded by Captain Philip Blassiere, a singularly active and zealous officer. Throughout the whole period of our warfare he never was absent from his station. With unwearied perseverance he braved the hardest weather and the roughest service; his athletic frame and iron constitution enabling him to withstand it all, holding out with stub born tenacity while hundreds gave way around him. Undergoing all hardships in common with his men, he walked by their side, partook of the same fare, and shared not only with them the dangerous trade of fighting, but aU the miseries of cold and famine with their attendant train of horrors. He was foremost on all oc casions, where shot and shell abounded, and was at the rendezvous before a man of the brigade was assembled; and long before the 358 ADVENTURES OF march commenced, there was Blassiere ready with his Germans for any thing that might be wanted. The external appearance of this man was well calculated to excite surprise, and corres- . ponded with his character for self-denial. His wardrobe was of the most scanty nature ; the jacket and other parts of his attire, the origi nal colour of which could not be distinguished by the most microscopic eye, were worn out, patched, and threadbare, and were pieced in various places ; and the whble of his costume seemed at least for the last seven years to have retained its original situation on the person of its owner. Thus accoutred he trudged along, indifferent about the elements ; as fast as he got wet, he got dry again, for he never changed his clothes. His muscular neck was enclosed by a hard leather stock and brass clasp to match, and all his trappings were of the same coarse materials as those worn by his men. The haversack, manufactured of rough canvass, sometimes proved a treacherous friend, for through many rents and breaches, made by the CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 359 hand of time, the mouldy and crumbling bis cuit found its way, leaving but the fragments of his bare allowance. The blue canteen, well clasped Avith iron hoops, afforded him a source of comfort; its contents being to him a certain panacea for all evils. With habits somewhat eccentric, he was never known to indulge in any thing beyond the rations; and having no desire for the so ciety of others, he discussed his frugal meal in solitude, avoiding even the luxury of a tent. His good humoured though weatherbeaten countenance was the index of his mind, which was cheerful and contented. After buffetting all the storms, roughing it through thick and thin, and standing out the pelting of many a shower of bullets, this gaUant veteran fell at last in battle when the army entered France. 360 ADVENTURES OF CHAPTER XXI. Intelligence being received that peace was concluded, the second Division of the Army embarked at Bordeaux, and, sailing from the Garonne, arrived in England early in 1814. The 50th AA'as ordered to Cork, and, after march ing through various parts of the Emerald Isle, they Avere sent to the north of it, where Avith the head quarters in Aughnacloy, they re mained for the winter of the same year. Early in the spring of 1815, the regiment Avas re- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 361 moved to Enniskillen.* Here we were treated Avith the most liberal hospitality, not only by the inhabitants of the town, but by those of the surrounding neighbourhood, who generously received and entertained the officers, during the whole time of our residence there. The 2nd Battalion of the 27th, and some troops of the 7th Dragoon Guards, together with the staff of the Fermanagh Militia, composed the garrison, the whole in charge of Major General Stephen Mahon. Bonaparte's return from Elba was the signal for renewed warlike preparations ; hence every possible means were resorted to for the augmen tation of the British Army. The troops in En niskillen commenced beating up with active zeal, and our regiment having on its return from France been reduced to a mere skeleton, was compelled to use redoubled exertions in order * Lieutenant Robert Reddle, of the 50th, died in this place, from the effects of a severe wound, which he received in France. He was interred with military honours, and a stone with a suit able inscription was placed over his remains. R 362 ADVENTURES OF to complete its numbers. The whole of the noncommissioned officers, with the band, and drums at their head, marched daily through the streets, tempting by most alluring baits those young fellows, who, struck Avith military ardour, were gazing and listening with wonder at all the fine speeches of the Serjeant*. Of the raw material there was abundant food for powder, and so many of the Hibernian youths were out of work that our battalion was soon filled up,. and in the course of the summer we were quite prepared for any service. From Enniskitten the Regiment marched to Londonderry, where they remained during the winters of 1815 and 1816. — While they were stationed in the garrison they were treated with * The beating-up was a most enlivening affair; the horns and kettle-drums, together with the noise of various other instru ments, made such a rattling through the town as kept the good people thereof wide awake, calling to the windows on every occasion a precious bevy of fair and blooming damsels, ready themselves to take on with any gallant gay Lothario, who might fee\ inclined to serve a campaign or two with them, in the field of Venus instead of that of Mars. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 363 the utmost kindness by the people, Avho testi fied on all occasions the high respect in which they held the military profession; and those officers noAv alive who were at that period quar tered there, can bear testimony to this record of the attention and generosity displayed by the inhabitants of that loyal and interesting city. Several detachments from the Regiment were cantoned in various parts of the countryy where they had but miserable accommodation. The officers thus situated led rather a solitary life, varied occasionally by the still-hunting expeditions, a species of service1 attended Avith1 much fatigue. Often have we traveUedr for miles over deserted tracts^ and^ after long continued wanderings, come perchance upon some spot where the illicit manufactory was in active work, and where every scheme and stratagem was used to avoid detection. Seized upon without resistance; the unfortunate peo"-" pie were paralysed -with terror, and were cap*' tured together with their Avhiskeyv Many1 Avere the waitings and sorroAvful cries of these' r 2 364 ADVENTURES OF miserable creatures, thus dispossessed of all they were worth in the world ; and it was piti able to hear their wives and chUdren in des pair imploring for mercy, while the relentless hand of law held their husbands and fathers within its grasp. It is much to be deplored that the King's troops should be employed in a duty of such a revolting nature, which brings them into hos tile contact with the poor inhabitants of their own country ; it is certainly no very agreeable, and it might be added, honourable employ ment, for any officer to be a gaugei^s whipper- in, or for his party to be the advanced guard of an excise officer, or deputy assistant carriers of potteen whiskey. We found it a most irk some, harassing and unpleasant service, the very recollection of which, even at this distance of time, is enough to make one shudder. Whenever the approaching military were ob served from the top of a distant hill, where scouts were posted to look out for the enemy, a sig nal was made to the dealers in the contraband, who Avere busily employed at their lawless call- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 365 ing, in a poor and roofless hut, situated in a re mote corner of the mountain glen. From hill to hill the well known signal spread like wild fire, and long before the soldiers reached the spot, the chief performers were off, having pre viously destroyed or removed the whole appara tus of their trade,leaving not a vestige of whiskey or machinery behind. The loud shouting and haUooing of the terrified fugitives, while the gaugers thirsting for their prey gave chase, re sounded among the heights. Knowing every pathway they soon outran the cunning excise men, and by the best of generalship left them to measure back their steps, bewailing their ill fate, in thus losing their prize, that was al most within their clutches. In order to fill up the intervals between these excursions, seeking for outlawed characters, hunting for robbers and highwaymen, or any other honest calling in that line, was the em ployment of the military. The duty of the officer was no sinecure ; nor could he ever en joy the quiet piUow, so frequent were the de mands upon his time. 366 ADVENTURES OF WhUe the 50th was in Deny, Mr. Butler, pf Grouse Hall, in the County of Donegal, was Cruelly assassinated in front of his own hall door, by a noted villain named Magennis, who fired at him with deliberate aim, from a plantation before the house. Magennis, who had been .engaged in other murders, bore a dreadful cha racter, and in such horror was he held, that on hearing of the commission .of this last diabolical act, that every well disposed and loyal person was witting tp lend a hand in his capture, and an immense reward was offered for his appre-r hension. The troops of course were employed in this affair, and were out at all hours in pur-? suit of the outlaw, without success. For months he thus eluded the vigUance of the. civil and military powers, outwitting them in then plans, and bidding defiance to their efforts to take (ajs he thought) his invulnerable body. Disguised in various costumes, he fled from place to place, asbest might suithis purpose, perpetuaUy chang ing his abode, from the remote villages to the, mountains, and lying at times concealed in deep recesses of the wildest glen or rocky cavern, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 367 where assisted by his friends, (for, strange to say, this wicked man had friends !.) he lay in privacy secure by day, while by night he prowled about the neighbourhood of his favor ite haunts. He Avas familiar with all the most iriaccesi- ble and unfrequented spots throughout the country, and -with the trackless waste he was well acquainted; Being constantly on the watch, he Avas far distant from his pursuers at the very time they supposed him within their grasp. As soon as the soldiers appeared in sight, this daring robber, standing on a pro montory, or ledge of rocks, and waving his hat in the air with loud shouts of defiance, would challenge the men to fire. At the next moment he would spring from the precipice, and mount ing a hardy galloway, scour off in triumph to another hill; thus rendering useless all exertion to take him, and shewing the difficulty of making any man a prisoner in a country where the laws are not sufficiently respected, and where the vilest malefactor is screened and sheltered from their power by the populace, iri 176 ADVENTURES OF long march in the most inelement Aveather. The object of the expedition was attained in the fuUest manner, and the consequences were most important to the prosperity of the suc ceeding campaign. The firing on all sides having ceased, and the prisoners being coUected under sufficient escort, preparatory to their final exit from the coast, our brigade proceeded in open column along the plain, on emerging from which we entered the high road to Merida, on the Gua- diana, passing on to the right of the lofty Sierra. In the woods about five leagues fur ther we encamped, and on the foUowing day, the 29th of October, we marched into the old town of Merida, when on the 30th we halted. This aneient town had been completely plundered, and thrown into a state of ruin and desolation, by the frequent visits of the inva ders. The celebrated buildings, which for ages had stood secure from the ravages of any other hand than that of time, were now either parti ally dismantled, burned, or destroyed. The remains of a Roman amphitheatre, and those CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 177 of the Triumphal Arch, built by the Emperor Trajan, are still, hoAvever, in good preservation, and together with the numerous vestiges of an cient structure are well deserving the attention of the antiquary. The convents, nunneries, and other religious edifices, were converted into barracks and sta bles for the French army, and therefore exhi bited nothing but naked walls, blackened and scorched by the fires made therein. The only place of worship that escaped the general wreck Avas the grand cathedral in the Plaza, which being a large unsightly pile, built without taste or uniformity, is not particularly orna mental to the town. Beyond the outskirts, are the ruins of an aqueduct, which bears upon its: venerable front evidence sufficient of past res-i pectability, and, though many centuries have rolled away since it was erected, several of its arches are still in a perfect state. On the road to Truxillo a new aqueduct has been built, which is not so light or wett finished as the old- one. The bridge across the Guadiana is-, re markable for its great length and . solidity ; it I 5 &%<$ ADVENTURES OF. -. bled, and, having to travel over a bleak and; mountainous range of hills, the roads, on, which, were intricate and bad, they did not arrive titt, midnight at the village, on the( skirts of which they halted. The night was dark as pitch,,.the. stillness of the grave prevaUed throughout, and npt even the smallest gleam of light was seen among the wretched group of dwellings. Every thing so far was favourable^ and lest any treacherous design should fork within the- peasant's breast, our worthy cicerone was strictly guarded, and a loaded musket placed in the vicinity of his head. " Come now, my lads," whispered the Irishman, " move on in, silence, youfU soon be at the spot ;" on which they foUowed him on tiptoe; not even the barking of a dog was heard, to interrupt them. In a state of breathless caution they passed the cabins, from the window of one of which an ugly beldame peeped out, her wizened face, , and seeing, the men, she quickly hobbled to the door; but the hag Avas in a moment seized, and told, in no very gentle terms, tha£ if her ladyship made the slightest noise, her life CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 371 would be the forfeit. This admonition caused Old Curiosity to quake so with fear, that her final exit would have speedily taken place had she remained in durance vile much longer. A marr or two being left as body guards to her highness, the remainder moved on quietly down the street, when the guide, pointing to a poor and desolate hovel on the road, said, in a low voice, " The object pf your search lies there." Measures were immediately taken to dispose the men in such a way about the cabin that no one could escape; sentries were placed at doors and windows, the soldiers were prepared Avith loaded arms to prevent a rescue, and no thing was left undone to Secure their prey. OnJ being informed of the room in which the guilty bandit lay concealed, Plunkett, a. man of tried1 courage and great personal strength, quickly' forced the outer door, and clearing all impedi ments he rushed onward through the passage, Avith a pistol loaded to the muzzle, made a1 rapid push into a small apartment, and per ceived the outlaw extended on the bed; to* spring like a hungry tiger- on hisSpr'ey, and putJ 372 ADVENTURES OF his weapon to the fellow's head, was the work of an instant. Magennis, armed to the teeth, and having for bedfellows a blunderbuss and brace of pistols, started up with horror, looking wildly and in fierce anger round, while he made a violent struggle to disentangle himself from the iron grip of Plunkett. The noise of these proceedings being the signal, the men without burst into the scene of action, when the ruffian, after making one last despairing effort to fire at the Lieutenant, and seeing that further re sistance would be vain, surrendered to the party, delivering up his weapons to their brave commander. So completely was the viUain taken off his guard, that he appeared almost paralysed with terror. Well aware that of mercy for his crimes there was none in store, he submitted with dogged looks to the men about him. Astonished at the corn-age of his captor, he addressed him thus-r— " Sir, what rank are you in the 50th," — " I am a Lieutenant," returned the officer. "Ah !" said Magennis, you ought. to be General Plunkett, for having taken me." CAPTAIN, PATTERSON. 3,73 The prisoner being pinioned, they marched him from the viUage, and, on the foUowing day, he was safely deposited in the county goal. Thus was this notorious criminal taken in his bed, through the intrepid conduct of one indi vidual, after the ineffectual efforts of many well-armed men. He was executed at Lifford, ki a few months after. The unfortunate man, who acted as guide to the captors, was, in a short time, barbarously murdered by bis countrymen. 3-74-' ' ADVENTURES ©F CHAPTER XXII. Being ordered to join the Regiment in the West Indies, I proceeded for that purpose from Albany Barracks, in the Isle of Wight, to Cowes, the 21st of November, 1820. — On the morning of the 22nd, the troops intended for the same destination embarked on board of the John Rickards, a fine ship, the captain of which, John Ward, was an exceUent seaman, as well as a kind and amiable character. The detachments were composed of men belonging to the Royal Artillery, and 50th, 58th and 92nd regiments; all commanded by Major Henry Pierce, R.A. — CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 375 In consequence of the unfavourable state of the wind, the ship remained at anchor in the roads. The officers employed this interval in making further preparations, as well as in arous ing themselves in the best way they could, Sprne in wandering along the sandy beach, others in sauntering about the streets, and not a few in rambling through the country in vari ous directions, exploring the beauties of the island. On the morning of the 25 th, the mnd com ing round to N. E„ signal was immediately made, when with hasty steps, Ave all repaired to the boats lying at the sea-beach, ready to. convey us on board. In a little time, the em barkation Avas completed, and about noon we were under way, standing down channel with a lively breeze, and a fine clear day. The bus tle and' commotion, incident to the beginning of a long passage, the stowing aAvay of anima ted and inanimate lumber, Avith a train of other preparatory measures, were attended with the confusion and noise that generally takes plaee on such occasions, and it Avas not until we had 376 Adventures of got pretty weU out to sea that matters subsided into something hke good order and regularity.* The cabin was not much better than those' harrow prisons usuaUy are in the West India' Merchantmen, but afforded tolerable head room to those who were not descended from a race of giants. The berths, or cupboard looking dens, intended to do the duty of sleeping places, on either side, were hammered up in a very rude style, without regard to comfort or con venience, presenting nothing whatever to allure to peaceful slumber the unfortunate being who was doomed to be incarcerated in them. Their odour was not exactly of a kind to rival that of the rose; such as they were, however, we had no alternative ; a hammock suspended from the ceiling- of the cabin would of two evils have been by far the least. The officers were aU a cheerful and good tempered set of men, each resolved to contri bute his mite to the general stock of harmony; and thus assist to lessen the miseries, that form unavoidably part and parcel of a shipboard life. Politely speaking, the fair ladies ought to have CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 3/7 been first alluded to. Those Avhom Ave were so fortunate as to have for our companions, Avere Avell disposed to lend their aid . in promoting Avhatever might tend to relieve the tiresome voyage. We could not therefore fail of being as happy as mortals could expect, under all the circumstances. While passing the Needles> the pilot took his leave, burthened Avith numerous epistles and billet doux, to wives and sweethearts. We gave many a longing lingering look to his Aveather-beaten skiff, as. it glided sAA'iftly to the shore, viewing it as the last connecting link of that chain which bound us to Old England ; but now alas ! to be severed, while we remain ed under mournful feelings, which the bright aspect of surrounding things could hardly disr sipate. It was beautiful to behold, on that sunny day, the prospect on , either side, whether aa'c looked to the green hills of the Isle of Wight, or on the rich and varied scenery along the coasts of Hants and Dorset. Sailing at the rate of six or seven knots, we rapidly bounded 378 ADVENTURES OF through the water, and, bearing away to the south-east, in a few hours we cleared the En glish Channel. By this time we began to experience certain very uncomfortable qualms, felt more or less by landsmen and sailors on their first invasion of the ocean. Gay and jocund looks were speedily changed into those of a more sickly character, the unpitied and unpitying malady, as the sea got rough, spreading its influence around. As for the griffins, or young adven turers, they vanished in silence to the lower regions, betaking themselves to their proper dens, Avhere they lay perdue, meditating on their hapless fate ; and, in a situation border ing on despair, were indifferent as to whether they Avent to the bottom of the deep, or were dismissed from the Avorld by a shorter road. It is wonderful how soon the ardour of even the most ambitious hero is cooled by a bout of sea sickness; the frame and spirit are paralysed, and all the energies of mind and body are lying prostrate, and he cares not a farthing for him self, or any human being. The Avorst of it is, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 379 ho one has compassion on the wretched victim, and though he may seem absolutely in a dying state, the healthy and older hands only laugh or grin at his distress; shakingtheir contented sides, whUe they cruelly prescribe for the unhappy patient a fat mutton chop, or a wedge of greasy bacon. For the smallest spot of sohd earth upon which to set one's foot, even though i.t were in a barren wilderness, the wealth of In dia would with gladness be exchanged, and, in bitterness of heart, the meanest reptile that ever crawled upon the surface of dry land be comes an object of envy. Our gallant bark still ploughed her way through the restless and sparkling Avaters, bearing the faint and the fight-hearted, the joyful together with the sad, onward to the warm and renovating atmosphere of southern regions. Even when our calamities were at their worst, there was always something to keep us from sinking into total despondency. Among otherresources against care and ennui, therewas the amusing society of a gentleman, named 380 ADVENTURES OF •Charles, our worthy surgeon, a stout, broad shouldered MUesian. He was the drollest fel low imaginable, of such infinite humour that he not only was the means of banishing the blue devils from those who were in health, but of raising the spirits of the sick and down cast. In short he was- a genius that could keep the table in a roar. We could not by any means get on without the Doctor, Avho, by his comicalities and racy ¦mirth, has restored more patients than hun-' dreds of his drenching brotherhood have done, by aU their quackery, nostrums, pills and bo luses;, This, jolly son of Esculapius had all the ready Avit and quaint originality of his coun trymen. By his songs, anecdotes and stories, the tedium of many a wintry night upon the deck was pleasantly beguiled These were indeed sufficient to dispel the grievous 'thoughts of even the most miserable asce tic that ever pined away his days in cell or her mitage. Poor Charles ended his career in Ja maica, where he fell a victim to the yellow fe- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 381 ver, and his brother officers were thus deprived of a social companion, and society of a good- natured and estimable member. Biscay, with all its stormy attributes, noAV, staled us wildly in the face, and shortly Ave Avere rolling on its waves, with nothing to re lieve the prospect. We, fortunately, escaped. this time any very tempestuous weather, being reminded only now and then, by sundry aAvful lurches, (to the total overthroAV of tables and contents), that we were still in blustrous lati tudes, and that we could not hope to cross , this noted bay without some little tossing, and a brush or tAvo from one of those gales for which it has so long been famed. Ground and lofty tumbling, as well as other gymnastics, suffi cient to educate the novice for a trial of skill in that branch of science, holding on by ropes, a somerset or two, intermingled with a game at aU fours, were consequently, in their turn, the most general occupations of the landsmen ; while, at the dinner table, the farce that was occasionally exhibited was quite as good as anything that Mathews could 382 ADVENTURES OF perform, and could not fail to excite the ris ible faculties of a stoic. When quietly seated round the festive board, during a lull, or whUe the sea was calm, there was nothing but " eat, drink, and be merry ;" but, presently, comes on the old work of pitching and rolling. By one tremendous lurch, the com pany are thrown upon their beam-ends, allmake a grasp at the table, Avhich is followed by a pull at the cloth ; then comes on the tug of war, — chairs, stools, benches, give way from their moorings, in consequence of the violent shock, accompanied by a column of plates, dishes,- mugs, and glasses, with a long train of crock ery, and our stock of eatables, all are mingled up together, and scattered about in every direction. A platter of potatoes is flung into the lap of the unlucky genius who has been endeavouring to rescue a leg of mutton ; a piece of salt junk is delivered up in exchange for some pickled pork ; and thrice happy the wight, who, in trying to save his own bacon, gains possession of a huge ham that flies most lovingly to his arms. Soup and gravy are CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 383 distributed in profuse showers upon the sprawl ing gastronomes, who with open mouths engulf the savoury fluid, and ruefully glancing up wards, survey with wistful eyes the precious morsels, flying to and fro in mid air, to tanta lize their hungry maws, rendering more keen the bitter misfortune which has thus so cruelly deprived them of cherished joys, now dissipa ted hke the morning dew. Meanwhile the ittfated masticators, so lately floored, not daring to let go the ring bolts and table legs which they most affectionately clasp, lie scrambling with all the appendages of bed and board coming in awful contact with their devoted heads ; too happy, if perchance, amid the fear ful chaos, they can be permitted to gnaw the tough and stringy junk, or enter into discussion' with a flinty biscuit, seasoned by a ravenous appetite, the sauce a la mode Avith all cam paigners of ancient and modern times. So much for a dinner at sea. The drama brought forward whUe in the enjoyment of the beverage that K cheers but not inebriates," was much of. the same character, whenever our 384 ADVENTURES OF good ship thought proper to recommence her antics, and comfort, like riches, " made unto herself Avings and fleAv away," leaving her ship mates to weather it out in the best manner they Avere able during the period of her ab sence. • After doubling Cape Finisterre the weather became remarkably fine, and we began to ex perience the genial influence of a milder at mosphere. About the 4th of December, we approached the latitude of Madeira ; the nights were beautiful and light, the stars also appear ing with a brilliancy we had not before observ ed. AVhile the winter in England was setting in with all its accustomed severity, we were throwing off our warm clothing, and getting the awnings and wind sails in readiness to guard against the effect of extreme heat. On the 8th, at daylight , land was seen from the mast head, which upon close, inspection proved to be that of the above island, bearing S. E. by S., and distant about twenty miles. The Avind being contrary, we made but little way, beat-' ing off and on, sometimes becalmed, with the' ' CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 385 safls flapping idly about the. masts and yards. In this wearisome situation, without any thing. whatever to vary the dull sameness, we were > glad to embrace the first opportunity that might present itself of making an attack upon: our neighbours of the deep. The idlers, there fore, began to try their hand at a little amuse ment in that line. The appearance of some turtle, floating on the surface of the water, in duced Captain Ward to lower the joUy boat, into which Ensign Ross and three expert sailors immediately leaped, pushing off at once with the intention of breaking in upon the slumbers of these drowsy animals, and, if pos sible, of introducing one or two of them to the acquaintance of the gentlemen on board. Arriving at the spot Avhere the fish Avere bask ing in the sun, they made an ineffectual effort to get one of them into their hands; and, soon after, they were seen tugging away lustily at the oar, on their return to the ship. -They had unfortunately neglected to stop the hole by means of which the boat was to be drained, the water had graduaUy entered before they had 386 ADVENTURES OF perceived the error, and the boat AA?as fitting rapidly. There was no time to be lost ; with every nerve and sinew the anxious crew leaned firmly to their work ; but, being in a SAvamping state, they moved slowly through the water. By a miracle at last they gained their vessel, up the sides of which the exhausted men were hardly able to clamber. It was with difficulty they got on deck, thankful that they had so narrowly escaped a watery grave. While we were off Madeira Captain Ward Avas desirous of complying with the wishes of the officers, by landing them, but the violent surf on the beach being likely to endanger us in the attempt, and the Aiind being light and baffling, it was found impossible to accomplish the desired object. On the 14th of December we discovered the Island of Palma, bearing S. W. The famous Peak of Teneriffe was likewise observable. In a feAv days, we got within the influence of the Trade Winds, blowing regularly throughout the year, between N.E. and N.W. The deck now became agreeably cool, in consequence of the CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 3&7 aAvning being spread, and our rate of sailing being generally six, seven, or eight knots, with a fine steady breeze, under every stitch of can vass we could bear, we generaUy ran from a hundred and fifty to two hundred mttes in the twenty four hours. The only remarkable event that happened on the passage took place about this time, which nearly proved fatal to one of the men. A soldier of the 92nd being accused of theft, and fearing the shame and punish ment that might ensue, formed the desperate resolution of throwing himself overboard. He accordingly jumped from the main shrouds into the sea, and, not being able to swim, he dropped fast astern. The ship, which was go ing at the rate of six knots, was hove to, and the jolly boat was immediately lowered, into which three of the creAV threw themselves, and pulled in the direction pointed out by those on board. In consequence of a heavy swell, they could not succeed in finding the proper course, and every possible means of saving the poor fefiow would have failed, had not Providence enabled him to float, until the boat was at last s 2 388' . ADVENTURES OF brought to his side, when they picked him up at about three hundred 'yards from the vessel, into which he was hauled in a state of com plete exhaustion from fatigue and terror, after being more than twenty minutes in the Avater. The nights in those latitudes were truly splendid, the brightness and clear sUvery light of the moon, (now in the full), far outshining the usual appearance of that luminary in the temperate zone. The weather continued de lightful, and for many days the sails remained unchanged, the seaman's life being almost a sinecure. Protected from the intense heat, by the shade which the awnings afforded, our proceedings, whether for amusement or otherwise, were all conducted on the deck. The soldiers, sailors, and women, assembled there after sunset, as well as on the gangways, in order that they might, during the cool refreshing hours, have a little bit of sport in the way of dancing. Reels and hornpipes were the most prevailing favourites, and, to the music of a fife and bag pipes, they tripped it on the plank with no CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 389 small degree of spirit. In these the Scottish lasses displayed a very good share of clever ness, and it was quite amusing to behold with what vanity as well as delight not a few of these merry' Northerns footed it away, with all their heart and soul, untiring and untired, to the tune of the Cameronian Rant. The tars enjoyed the fun, and seemed completely in their element while figuring off in the pas- seul, or reeling it with the ladies. One of these damsels, in particular, a comely and laughter- •loA'ing wench, from the banks of the Clyde, known by the appeUation of Dumbarton Mary, was in truth the picture of good humour. With rosy cheeks, and a brace of dark eyes, . she had rather an interesting appearance, when in her tartan dress, and with stockingless feet, she gave them a specimen of the Highland . fling. Singing was also going forward, not only on the forecastle but on the poop, where our wor thy medico had a knot of pleasant fellows , seated round him, listening to the ditties by which he entertained them. Long yarns were 390 ADVENTURES OF spun, and every thing was put in requisition, so that the night was pretty well curtailed, Avhen unwiUingly each withdrew to dream of the day's adventure. To celebrate the invasion of Father Nep tune's empire, or, in common parlance, cross ing the Line, preparations were actively made on aU hands, and the usual as well as oft re peated ceremony was duly performed. This ridiculous mummery began at an early hour, and continued, with its noises, uproar, and buffoonery, to a late period of the day; drunk enness and excessive rioting reigned through put the Vessel; — sailors and soldiers were in one general state of disorder and intoxication. The custom, though of long standing, appears to have no other tendency than that of pro ducing tumult and confusion amongst the crew, and is one of those absurdities that ought long ago to have been abolished. In consequence of these unmeaning and dangerous proceedings, a private of the Royal Artillery, named Wailey, was found dead in his berth, on the following morning. Upon CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 391 examination of his body by the Surgeon, it appeared that the unfortunate man drank to such excess of strong rum, that, having lain down and covered himself, he soon got suffo cated, from the powerful effects of the liquor; He afforded an unhappy instance of the fatal consequences of intemperance, as well as of the evil that arises from that abominable practice to Avhich he prematurely fell a victim. On the 3rd of January, 1821, after being thirty six days at sea, intelligence of land in sight was joyfully heard by all on hoarih and towards noon^ the small Island of Deseada, in the Carribbean Sea, was plainly discernahle on our larboard quarter, bearing W. S. W., and distant about twenty five miles. Every one arose and got on deck as quick as possible, in order to feast their eyes upon this most agree able and welcome prospect. Directly ahead further appearances of land presented them selves, and Guadaloupe soon became distinct ; the lofty mountain of La Souffriere rising abruptly above the foreground, the nearest 392 ADVENTURES OF point of which was not more than four miles, off. In the course of the forenoon we came in sight of His Majesty's Frigate, Tribune, Cap tain WiUoughby, which had been for some months cruizing about in this latitude. Our gallant ship bore up for the frigate, which had made a previous, signal, for that purpose, and on arriving close the troops and seamen gave her three hearty cheers. The tars ; who man ned the yards of the Tribune returned the sa lute by a peal of loud huzzas, whUe their band, at the same time, in most exceUent style played "Rule, Britannia." Our sails were filled, and once more steering on our course,,the frigate bore away in a snpe- riormanner, giving-us as we parted, " The girl I left behind me." From the 8th to the 10th we lay becalmed off C.aPe Tiberon, the south-east point of St. Domingo, and on the evening of the latter day a fine breeze springing up, we made so good a run in the night time, as to bring up our loss. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 393\ and, as we went at the rate of from eight to nine knots, St. Domingo was far astern by day light. At a very early hour we were hailed by the cry of land in sight, and presently the Blue Mountains of Jamaica were distinctly visible on the lee bow. Rejoiced at. these good tid ings we continued on the deck, anxiously look ing out, with the hope of being safely moored in the course of the evening ; these hopes were fortunately realized, for the wind being steady, and blowing in our favour, we soon gained the east end of the island. About ten A. M..we arrived off Port Morant, and, scudding along under all the canvass Ave could carry,, cleared Yellah's point by. two o'clock. Nothing could be finer than the appearance of the island. As we closed in toAvards the coast the most splendid and romantic scenery openr ed to- the eye, as we passed each headland, whUe the rich and varied country, bordering on the mountains, enlivened by the luxuriant cane s 5. 394 ADVENTURES OF fields, together with innumerable trees and wide plantations, formed on the whole a pros pect of exceeding beauty. By five P. M. we made Port Royal, and soon after dropped anchor in the harbour. The Pilot we had taken on board was now to his very great joy discharged. He had no great relish for the blowing he had got, and seemed miserable while he was in the chilly regions of our vessel. All the time that we were panting and puffing from the heat, and trying to get into every hole and corner from the sun, our sable commodore said " it Avas berry cold day", and shivering in every limb, like a navigator at the pole, crouched in from a breeze that felt as though it were coming from a fur nace. When blacky first put his foot upon the gangway he looked about him with an air of some authority, and standing by the helm assumed no little consequence. It was nearly sunset when the anchor was let go, which operation was no sooner per formed than some boats came along side, bear ing certain officials, A\ho in their exercise of CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 895 pretended duty? or curiosity, commenced prying about with rather an important air; among them were idlers and loungers not a few, who, with the usual preface of " I hope I don't intrude", began rummaging all about the ship, poking into every hole and corner for stale newspapers, old magazines, or any other chance provender for their inquisitive appetites. Noth ing escaped the notice of those gentry, who with open mouthed avidity poured forth a whole VoUey of questions, about affairs in general, in that country from whence we came. Having fully satisfied their minds that there was no more to be explored, the intermeddlers vanished, previously helping themselves quite coolly to any little matters that were throAvn about, of course of no use in the world to the late owners. By this time there Avas scarcely any tAvilight, darkness suddenly coming over the face of every object, while at the same time impenetrable mist overspread the Avide and placid harbour ; as there was not the slightest breath of wind, the land breeze not yet being 396 • ADVENTURES OF felt, a most oppressive heat and closeness pro duced on the new comers a suffocating effect, that, made them not in'the least desirous of resuming their berths below. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 397 CHAPTER XXIIL Some of the officers, of whom I was one, went ashore at Port Royal, to enjoy an hour or two's recreation, and to stretch their legs, a luxury which it may wett be imagined was most ac ceptable to them, after being cooped up within the narrow precincts of a few planks nailed to gether, and with only the interminable marine view as a refief to the mind. We entered a tavern, in the lower part of the toAvn, where we indulged in a copious draught, known by the name of porter cup, an excellent and refreshing beverage, made of Ma- 398 adventures of deira wine, Port, and other ingredients, and which I commend to the notice of any traveUer who may hereafter travel that way. This tavern was kept by a facetious and eccentric character, well known by the appellation of Johnny Feron, a sort of French adventurer. His house was generaUy well frequented by strangers, who, during the period that they re main within his care, he, by means of an exor bitant bill, relieves of the troublesome burthen of any loose cash by which they may be overloaded. The house of this wily Frenchman was crammed full from top to bottom of soldiers and sailors, carousing, smoking and revetting. The galleries Avere occupied by a noisy crew, who with loud and obstreperous mirth made the slender fabric ring. Upstairs and down, the landlord with his train of dusky waiters were running to and fro, so many Were the calls for the attendance of these worthies; the tongues of the bells chimed in with that of their master, while a garrulous jargon was kept up, that made us gladly take leave of this Pandemo- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 399 nium for the more tranquil regions of the ship; we therefore hastened to the beach, where a boat was in readiness to convey us on board. The hotel, (which from the number of its customers was entitled to that designation,) was a light and flimsy tenement, and, like other buildings throughout the island, was but a mere piece of framework, lathed or boarded in, and having verandas and jalousies, painted in various gaudy colours. In consequence of the prevalence of storms and hurricanes, the elevation in these cases is never beyond the first floor, from AAhence project a range of gal leries, supported by the pillars of the colonnade below. The whole arrangement of the slender edifice is such, that any inconvenience arising from the heat and other effects of such a cli mate is but slightly felt. The toAvn of Port Royal, (situated, as is wett known, on that remarkable strip of sand that forms the eastern barrier of Kingston harbour) has had many awful visitations, being so oftep destroyed by earthquakes, and as often rebuilt 400 , ADVENTURES OF '" upon the ruins, that it is fit only for those who; being tired of their lives, would venture on the chances of a new. and summary, mode of mak ing their final exit. However, the importance of .the station as. a naval depot, as wett ' as that of the works, commanding the entrance of the bay, have outweighed alii other considera tions, and have induced the government at home to, keep so strong a garrison there, that the remnant of a. town. is yet preserved, al though from past experience one might expect that desolation and tottering walls would be its only monument. The long narrow bank, which is terminated at its point by a strong battery, is barren and unfruitful, presenting not the least vestige of cultivation, or other object pleasing to the eye, with the exception of some straggling cocos, standing like sentinels at the water's edge, and the scattered tumble-down looking houses, with many indications of decay, forming a sort of close irregular street, of which, taverns, gaming houses, and other receptacles of vice, are the most prominent features. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 401 On the foUowing morning, at day-break, we jumped upon deck, with all the eagerness and impatience of a bevy of gaol birds on emanci pation from their prison house. Rowing across that wide and beautiful bay, we hauled to, along side of the wharf at Kingston, where, on landing, the several fellow travellers separ ated, each for the quarters to which he was bound. Accompanied by Ensign William Ross, of the 50th, I proceeded direct through the principal street to the house of Mr. Smith, a respectable merchant, under whose hospit able roof many officers of the garrison found a cordial welcome. Our friend was enjoying himself under the cool shade of his veranda, where he received us in an open and generous manner, and, arriving just in time for break fast at the usual hour of six, we partook of an excellent repast, to which our morning excur sion on the water enabled us to do sufficient justice. The habitation of our worthy host was a pretty fair sample of those throughout the town, and, although not large, Avas. com- 402 ADVENTURES OF modious, and furnished in a style adapted to the climate; matting of split cane, or straw, in stead of carpets, the chairs of cane, and every other article to correspond. Within the piazzas, on the ground-floor, were the store and offices, and, opening from the galleries above, were the several domestic chambers. Without delaying to explore the geography of Kingston, we started about eleven for the barracks at Up Park Camp, in a sort of gig or cabriolet peculiar to the island, and arrived about twelve o'clock.- — Here we found the 50th stationed, under the command of Lieut Colonel John Bacon Harrison, to whom having duly reported, we were handed OArerto the apartments allotted for our reception. The troops then in Jamaica were the 50th Colonel Harrison ; 58th Colonel D.Walker; 61st Colonel Ryal; and the 92nd Colonel — ; the 50th and 92nd, the latest comers, whose ranks diminished by the sickness of the last year Avere almost reduced to skeletons, Avere little better than the shadoAv of Avhat they were at the time of landing. Of the old SOth but feAv remained. — Com- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 403 pleted before they sailed, to the full establish ment, by a fine set of young men from the North of Ireland, they departed from that country in the highest state of order and equipment for this island, where they had not been stationed for many months when the most sickly season set in that for many years had been remembered. Full of strength, and the vigour of youth, the new soldiers soon became the victims of disease ; indulging immoderately perhaps in the pernicious rum, and ignorant of its baneful effects, they lay prostrate in dreadful numbers beneath the dreadful pestUence. So great a sacrifice of human life had not taken place in att our hardest battles combined together, and the oldest inhabitants here tried in vain to recollect a more severe and afflictive dispensation. — With regard to the officers, from the Colonel to the youngest Ensign, in cluding staff, the greater number Avere carried aA\'ay,* * From the year 1819 to 1826, the 50th and 92nd lost 1409 404 ADVENTURES OF Among the 50th, the fever broke out in July 1819. The 92nd Highlanders did not arrive until the early part of the summer in that year, and were therefore badly seasoned. Be ing a long time companions in the same brigade, the meeting between these corps was con sequently joyous, and in order to celebrate the happy event they dined together in the camp. Sobriety of course was not a member of the party; and, as might well be expected, the men, which is at the rate of 88 ^"-year each- regiment, in the eight years. The 33rd and 91st, from 1822 to 1829, (eight years,) lost 1036 men, or about 65 a year, each. The 77th, from 1824 to 1829, (six years,), lost 433, or 72 men a year. The 22nd and 84th, lost from 1826 to 1829, (three years*) 501 , or 84 men a year, each regiment. In Jamaica) the most unhealthy months in the year are Au gust and November, and the most healthy are May and June ; in the former months the mortality is four times as great as in the latter months. Dividing the year into two equal parts, the " healthy season " may be considered as. extending from Feb ruary to July, the " unhealthy season " from August to Janu ary. The deaths in these two seasons are as ten to twenty- seven. The seasoning, or period of severe mortality, generally oc- ; curs in the latter half of the year in which a regiment arrives. CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 405 hospital was not without its portion of the company on the ensuing day. Predisposed as the men in general were by former habits, as well as by frequent exposure to the nightly' dews, the malady broke out with violence unparetteled among both regiments ; from that period it raged throughout the island, sweeping att before it, and even among the civilians the mortality Avas unbounded. In some localities the ravages were far more dreadful than in others ; Up Park camp, Spa nish town, Fort Augusta, and Stony hill were among the fatal number, and at a small place on Kingston harbour, called Greenwich, no human being could exist. In a fort erected there, upon a low and swampy piece of ground, a party of artillery had been posted, the whole of whom soon died; another was sent, but they followed their companions; and so rapidly did each in succession fall under the pernicious exhalations arising from this deadly spot that it was, at length, abandoned altogether. On the list of those who perished was Colo nel Charles Hill of the SOth, who, after behold- 406 ADVENTURES OF ing with grief the loss of nearly all his officers/ Avas himself attacked while stationed at Fort Augusta. His mind and body were thoroughly exhausted, and the sufferings he underwent were, in themselves, enough to bear down a stronger man, but when "the fatal illness came, he was indeed badly able to withstand its vio lent effects. Alone as it were in the midst of pestilence and death, his fortitude Avas Avell nigh over come by the affliction he was doomed to suffer, in following to the silent tomb, one after an other, his friends and faithful companions in arms. It AAas, indeed, a trial too hard for the firmest mind to bear, and affected this estima ble man so much, that, afterwards, he never held up his head. Few were then remaining to pay the last and mournful tribute to his memory, but those few, with heartfelt sorrow, witnessed his inter ment, where so many of his soldiers had pre viously been laid. To perpetuate the Avorth of the excellent and gallant officer, a monument Avas erected, in the church at Kingston, Avhere, CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 407 although upon the marble AA7as inscribed abun dant testimony of his fame, an inscription far less perishable is deeply engraven on the hearts of all Avho had ever been under his command. Colonel HiU was above forty years in the 50th, serving with them in every clime, and during every time of perU. Possessed of independance, he might long since have retired to the enjoy ment of private life, but no, — the regiment was his home, the officers and soldiers Avere his famUy ; with them he passed the floAver of his life, Avith them he passed to an honorable tomb. An earnest desire for the welfare of his country, together with an ardent zeal in the service of his king, were the actuating motives by which he was influenced to the latest hour of his existence. Up Park Camp is beautifully situated on an extensive piece of level ground, at the base of the Liguana mountains, enclosed by the prickly pear, and a great variety of floAvering shrubs. The verdant plain is interspersed Avith numer ous rich and valuable trees, Avhose luxuriant foliage has a briUiant and enlivening effect. 408 ADVENTURES OF The spacious esplanade, upon which the bar racks stand, is ornamented and embellished with all the taste displayed in the park of some noble mansion, while the magnificent hiUs, in the back ground, clothed to their summits with impenetrable wood, serve to heighten the grandeur of a scenery that stands unsuipassed by any thing to be met with in this habitable globe. Notwithstanding the assemblage of lovely objects, which are presented on the face of this bright landscape, and however it may be a paradise in appearance, aU its advantages are neutralized by its pernicious climate, and the camp, after all, is but a gilded mausoleum. It is likewise morally impossible to enjoy ex istence in a place where So many annoyances must hourly be encountered, not only from the excessive heat, but from innumerable torment ing insects, and crawling things, that banish all repose, and interfere with every comfort which one might otherwise enjoy. The report of a heavy piece of ordnance call ed us up at day break, and the performances CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 409 commenced by the parade taking place soon after. During the breakfast hours, the spaci ous green, (then brown with heat,) before our quarters, presented some amusement to the gentlemen at the windows ; for sundry maidens, Avith complexions that would rival Day and Martin, flocked about the settlement, vending ; their different wares, consisting of tawdry - ornaments for the soldiers' wives, and fruits of luscious quality to tempt the officers.— Passing off their jokes and pleasantries, the sable fair- ones, (to use an Irishism), puffed up their goods,- while they patiently endured the fire of a volley of oranges, which was discharged from the galleries at their lovely heads. From eleven till twelve the second break fast, answering to the Eastern tiffin, was ready in the mess-room, where a banquet was spread' out that would have tickled the palate of a Nabob. — The remainder of the day till sunset was one unvarying round of dulness. Some times, however, strange as it may seem, the active game of cricket was engaged in, when, under, a broiling sun, with jackets off, the T 41Q ADVENTURES OF characters in the sport seemed using their best efforts to end all their troubles by finding a speedy mode of exit. Evening parade, at five, was the rallying point for a grand turn out ; warlike evolutions, and the military music, in strains harmonious, attracted the fair and languid belles of Kings ton. These fascinating daughters of Eve, while in graceful attitudes they lounged in curricle, or landau, cast many abewitching look upon the gaUant heroes thus honoured with their presence. The rolling of the wett known drum, at six, announced the hour of dinner, and round the board were soon collected the hungry candi dates, for fame before the trenches, (quere, trenchers) ? The happy votaries at the shrine of Epicurus were duly arranged in order of battle, and with Aldermanic science acted their parts, to the no small havoc of the quickly vanishing fare. Were it possible to exercise the reasoning powers in this abominable furnace there was sufficient means of so doing; for a wett stocked CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 411 library of chosen books afforded a source of en joyment, that, in any other situation would have been invaluable. But with the thermo meter at 90° in the shade, and bright Sol nearly vertical, the faculties of the mind were almost paralysed, and as for the body, it was kUn dried vrith a vengeance. Although the months of December and Ja nuary are considered more temperate than any other throughout the year, the heat when Ave arrived was intolerable; and as for going out of doors in the middle of the day, it was in truth a melting concern. The sun being at its greatest power between nine o'clock and two in the afternoon, (the interval between the land and sea breeze,) during that time no one in his common senses would venture abroad. The most agreeable portion of the twenty four hours is about sunrise, when the oppressive effects of the sultry atmosphere are tempered by the fresh and balmy air of morning. The even ings, likeAvise, are pleasant and refreshing, and it is then that exercise and driving about are much enjoyed. The heavy dews at night are t 2 412 ADVENTURES OF highly injurious, and an exposure to their in fluence is dangerous, if not fatal, particularly to the stranger, or newcomer, who, not being seasoned to all the vicissitudes of these torrid regions, becomes an unguarded victim to his inexperience. One of the greatest evils attendant on a resi>- dence here is the Constant thirst, arising from the extreme aridity of the climate, and the vio-^ lent action of the Solar rays upon the human frame and constitution. The appetite is there fore in general slight, but the ihclination to drink is excessive. Hence it is, that sangaree3 SAvizzle, and other mixtures, not exactly in ac cordance with the rules and laws of the Tem-> perance Society, are continually in requisition^ and find their wUling votaries at every hour. An old hard-going veteran, who had been tan ned and roasted to a cinder, on being asked for his opinion of the country, replied, like a true Salamander, " 0 ! 'tis the finest place in the world, because one is always thirsty, and there is always plenty to drink." The bacchanalian remark was true ; for Madeira, Rum and Bran- CAPTAIN PATTERSON. 413 dy, flow in copious streams from a fountain, whose source is never exhausted. From the table these liquids, with their accompaniments, are seldom, on any occasion, absent ; and the custom of quaffing the intoxicating beverage, in draughts unlimited, is general throughout the length and breadth of all these sun-burnt islands. The rains seldom fall, but when they do, it is in right earnest, descending with so much vio lence, that they have some resemblance to a second deluge, of which our puny showers at home can give no adequate idea. To be over taken in one of them is an adventure of no common peril, and unless the traveller succeeds in a precipitate flight to some adjacent place of shelter, he is in a moment drenched as tho roughly as if he werej dragged across a horse- pond. An attack of fever is the certain consequence of getting wet, and remaining in that condition for the shortest time. Lieutenant Richardson of the 50th, an officer who had been much on service, going to Stony Hill, where he wag 414 ADVENTURES OF quartered, was suddenly caught by a down pour, which fell so unmercifully that in a minute or two he was completely soaked. Having no place of refuge from the storm, he rode on quickly towards the mountain, at the foot of which there was a small tavern where the Lieutenant hastily alighted, and, without making any change in his apparel, he drank freely of some rum and water. The weather clearing up, he was anxious to arrive at his barracks before sunset, and therefore proceeded Avithoutmuch delay upon his journey, at the end of which he found himself quite dry. The effects of his imprudent conduct were soon evident, for the fatal malady got possession of his frame, and his life was terminated on the folfowing day. WhUe the fever was at its height among the troops, Mrs. Ross, wife to Surgeon BaUy Ross of the 50th, an amiable young woman, inter esting both in manner and appearance, embarked in one of the traders bound for England; but scarcely had she left the island when a violent tempest drove back the ship, and cast her on CAPTAIN PATTERSON, 415 the rocks to the eastward of Port Royal, where she went to pieces and became a total Avreck. The passengers, however, with great difficulty, and after extreme sufferings, at length succeeded in getting safe ashore, to which, although Avith loss of all their baggage, they were thankful that they had escaped with their lives. Poor Mrs. Ross, alone and unprotected, was iU prepared to meet the sudden and unexpected blow, and with her companions in misfortune, bereft of every thing but the clothes she wore, she returned again to Kingston. Anxiety of mind, together Avith the hardships that she must have undergone, were too much for so delicate a frame, and before she could obtain another passage, she was seized Avith fever, and all her trials and sufferings were shortly ended. The sad event called forth the grief of those who had knoAvn the worth of this kind and gentle lady, who, in the bloom of youth, was thus cut down, like a fair and lovely flower, when her bright hopes of returning to her friends and country were about to be real ized. 416 . ADVENTURES OF Kingston is a good sized town, situated on an inclined plane, sloping to the .water side, where aU the principal warehouses and the markets stand. The streets are regularly plan-