YALE
UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

THE
HISTORY

AND

ANTIQUITIES

OF

LONDON.
BY THOMAS PENNANT, ESQ.

A NEW EDITION,
IN TWO VOLUMES,
ILLUSTRATED WITH EORTY-ONE PLATES.

VOL. II.

JLonDon :
PRINTED FOR J. COXHEAD,
HOLYWELL-STREET, STRAND J
BY B. MCMILLAN, BOW-STKEET, COVENT-GAKDEK.),
1813.

HISTORY OF
LONDON.

J^ CURIOUS investigator of antiquities hath
lately recovered the beautiful little chapel
of St. Michael, near Aldgate, under the house
of Mr. Relph, in„Leadenhall-street*. It is
supposed to have been built by prior Norman,
about the year :1I08, in the Gothic architec
ture. Its dimensions are forty-eight by sixteen ;
and is built with square pieces of chalk. The
arches are very elegant, supported by ribs,
which converge, and meet on the capitals of the
pillars, which are now nearly buried in the
earth; but are supposed to be covered with
sixteen feet of s;oil. The whole addition of soil,
since its foundation, is supposed to have been
twenty-six feet ; an amazing increase, which
* Gentleman's Magazine, April 1789, 293, tab. i.
VOL. II. B

2 ALDGATE.
might almost occasion one to suspect it to have
been the sub-chapel of some now-lost church.
The church of St. James, Duke's Place,
rose out of the ruins of this priory, in the time
of James I. and the mayoralty of sir Edward
Barkham. Ealdgate, or Aldgate, which signifies Old
Gate, stands in the place where the wall forms
an angle, and takes a southerly direction, and
terminated in a postern near Tower-hill. It
was one of the four principal gates; the Ro
man road passed under it, so one must have
existed on the site in the earliest times. It was
also one of the seven that had double doors, as
was evident by the hinges, which existed in the
time of Stow. Mention is made of it in the
reign of Edgar, by the name of Ealdgate. In
the fierce wars between king John and his
barons, the latter entered the city through this
gate, and committed great ravages among the
houses of the religious. Their chieftains re
paired, or rather re-built Aldgate, after the
Norman manner ; and made use of stone brought
from Caen, and a small brick called the Flan
ders tile, which probably has been often mis
taken for Roman. This gate was of great
strength, and had a deep well within.

FALCONBRIDGE DEFEATED. 3
In 1471, the Bastard Falconbridge, at the
head of five thousand riotous people, attacked
the city on this side, won this gate, and forced
a way in for a few of his forces; but, the port
cullis being. let down, they were all slain. The
valiant alderman of the ward, and the recorder,
ordered it to be. drawn up, and sallying forth,
defeated the Bastard with great slaughter. In
1606 this gate was taken down and re-built,
under the care of Martin Bond, afore-men
tioned: as a proof of its antiquity, many Ro
man coins were found among the foundations.
Immediately without the gate, is the church
of St. Botolph's, Aldgate' This is one of
four dedicated, in London, to this favourite
saint. In it is the vault of the Darcies, of the
north; 'and the tomb of Thomas lord Darcie,
knight of the garter ; with his figure on it,
representing him asleep, with a shroud wrap
ped round him; his face, breast, and arms
naked. The figure is at present deformed by
fresh painting, and the inscription rendered
illegible. This nobleman, disliking the inno
vations in religious matters, took a secret part
in the insurrection called the Pilgrimage of
Grace: and, in conjunction with the archbishop
of York, was supposed to have given up to
b2

4 ST. EOTOLPH'S, ALDGATE.
Aske, chief of the malecontents, the castle of
Pontefract, on very frivolous pretences. He
lost his head on Tower-hill, in 1537, and was
interred in this church. He had been in high
fa\ our with the king; was entrusted by him,
in 1510, with fifteen hundred archers, and four
great ships, to assist Ferdinand against the
Moors of Africa; but that monarch, having
brought hisdesigns to succeed to his wish, dis
missed lord Darcie and his forces with rich re
wards*. Here also was buried another victim to the
unrelenting Henry, sir Nicholas Carew, his
master of the horse", and knight of the garter.
This gentleman was charged with nothing more
than of being of council with Henry Courtney,
marquis of Exeter, for the imaginary plot of
deposing his master, and making cardinal Pole
king in his stead: for this, on March 3d, 1538,
he suffered on Tower-hill. By the instructions
of his keeper, he imbibed the principles' of the
reformers, and died professing their religion.
In the ceemetery of this church is the very
remarkable tomb (in the altar form) of Coya
Shawsware, a merchant, and secretary to
Lord Herbert's Life of Henry VIII, p. 15,

PERSIAN FORMS OF SEPULTURE. 5
Nogdi-beg, the Persian ambassador. Around
the margin is an inscription in the Persian
tongue. Shawsware died here in 1626, aged
44. The ambassador, the son of the deceased,
and numbers of Persians attended, and per
formed the funeral rites according to the forms
of their religion : his son was the principal in
the ceremony, who sat cross-legged at the
north end of the grave, sometimes reading,
sometimes singing, and with all the expressions
of the truest filial affection. During a month
after, the friends of the deceased visited the
grave morning and evening, and made their
orisons on the spot, till they were driven away
by the rudeness of the English mob. In the
latter end of the reign of James I. great efforts
were made to establish a trade with Persia.
The great emperor Abbas sent this ambassador
to our court. The famous traveller, sir Robert
Shirley, and sir Dodmore Cotton, discharged
the same office on our part, and both died at
Casbin, in the year 1628. Nogdi-beg, the
Persian ambassador, poisoned himself, on his
return home, dreading the resentment of his
master for his treacherous misrepresentation of
our illustrious Shirley*.
Travels of Tbp. Herbert, esq. London, 1634,

6 RIGID PUNISHMENTS.
Near Aldgate lived and died the able histo
rian John Stow. He relates a cruel execution
on a gibbet, erected on the pavement before
his house, on the bailiff of Rumford, in the
time of Edward VI. In that age there were
most barbarous and tyrannous punishments, by
martial law, against all spreaders, of rumors.
The times were turbulent, but slighter penal
ties than death might have sufficed. The un
happy man, on the ladder, declared, in the
presence of our historian, ' That he knew not
' for -what offence he was brought to die,
" except for words by me spoken yesternight
" to sir Stephen, curate and preacher of this
" parish; which were these: He asked me,
" What news in the countrey ? I answered,
" Heavy newes. Why, quoth he ? It is sayd,
" quoth I, that many men bee up in Essex ;
" but, thanks be to God, all is in good quiet
" about us. And this was all, as God be my
"• judge." Upon these words of the prisoner,
sir Stephen, to 'avoide the reproach of the
' people, left the citie, and never was heard of
' since among them to my knowledge.' — I shall
have farther occasion to speak of sir Stephen,
who was a fanatical firebrand of those days.
On the outside of the gate, begins the long
street and suburbs of VYhitechapel. The

WHITECHAPEL. 7
church stands very distant from the entrance
into the street. It was originally a chapel of
ease to Stepney, and known, as early as the
year 1336, by the name of the church of St.
Mary Matfelon; which is said to signify, in
the Hebrew, Mary lately delivered of her holy
child: as the township was styled Villa Beatce
Marine de Matfelon* . It is now a very rich
rectory, in the gift of Brazen-nose college,
Oxford. In the latter end of the reign of queen
Anne, this church was prophaned by a most
libellous and scandalous picture of the Last
Supper, placed above the altar, by the then
rector. It seems that doctor White Kennet,
at that time dean of Peterborough, had given
such offence to the high-church rector, by his
writings in defence of the Hanoverian succes
sion, that he caused the dean to be painted
among the apostles in the character of Judas,
dressed in a black habit, between cloak and
gown; a short wig; and, to render it impossi
ble to mistake the object of the satire, with a
black velvet patch on his forehead, which the
dean always wore from the time he received a
dreadful accident on that part in his younger
* Stow, ii. book iv. p. 44.

MINORIES.

days. Beneath was written, Judas the Tray-,
tor. The dean, with true greatness of mind,
despised the insolence: but the bishop of Lon
don interfered, and caused the picture to be
removed by the very persons who had set it up.
In this parish some of our nobility had for
merly their villas, for the sake of the country
air. Here Cromwel earl of Essex, the short
lived minister of Henry VIII. had a house;
and the famous Gondamor retired here, ^when
disengaged from his bubble, James I.
Parallel to the walls, between Aldgate and
the Tower, is the street called the Minories;
named from certain poor ladies of the order
of St. Clare, or Minoresses, who had been in
vited into England by Blanch queen of Na
varre, wife to Edmund earl of Lancaster; who,
in 1293, founded here, for their reception, a
convent. On its suppression it was converted
into a dwelling-house, and granted by the king
to several great people, who inhabited it. The
bishops of Bath and Wells once had it, in lieu
of their mansion in the Strand: and in 1552,
Henry Grey, duke of Suffolk, possessed it by
patent from Edward VI. On his attainder it
reverted to the crown, in which it continued till
the Restoration. Soon after, a new house was

GOODMAN'S FIELDS. 9
built on it, called the king's, for what reason
is unknown. Charles granted it to colonel
William Legge, who resided there, died in it
in 1672, and was buried from thence, with
great funeral pomp, in the adjoining church,
that of Trinity Minories: and his descendants,
of the Dartmouth family, still continue to make
it the place of their interment.
This street, from being as despicable as any
in the city, has of late years been most excel
lently re-built ; is filled with several spacious
shops ; is become a fine street ; and, on one
side, has its square, its circus, and its crescent.
Behind this street is Goodman's Fields, or
rather square. Stow, in his simple manner,
tells, that in his time one Trolop, and after
wards Goodman, were the farmers there; and
that the ' ' fields were a farme belonging to the
" said nunrie; at the which farme, I myselfe,
" ( says he ) in my youth, have fetched manye a
" halfe peny worth of milk, and never had
" lesse than 3 ale pints for a halfe penny in the
" summer, nor lesse than one ale quart for a
" halfe penny in the winter, alwaies hot from
" the kine*." * His Survaie, 224.

10 PLAYHOUSE IN GOODMAN'S FIELDS.
The theatre in Goodman'! Fields, will al
ways be remembered by my cotemporaries, as
the stage where Garrick first showed those
powers, which, for such a number of years,
astonished and charmed the public: his first
appearance was on October 19th, 1741. One
Odel founded the playhouse in this square,, in
1728. As sir John Hawkins expresses it, a
"halo of brothels* soon incircled that, as it does
all theatres ; and drove away the industrious
inhabitants. This theatre was re-built, in an
expensive manner, by Henry Giffard, in 1737;
but was suppressed by the excellent act for the
licensing of places of dramatical entertainment.
¦Yet it was supported a few years by an evasion,
during which time, Mr. Garrick entered him
self of the company. He drew an audience
of nobility and gentry, whose carriages filled
the whole space from Temple-bar to White-
chapel f.
On the west side of this portion of the walls,
stood the house of the Crutched, or Crossed
Friars, or Fratres sanctee Crucis. The order
was instituted, or at least reformed, about the
year 1169, by Gerard, prior of St. Mary de
* Life of Doctor Johnson, 76. f Life of Garrick, i. 42.

CRUTCHED, OR CROSSED FRIARS. 11
Morello, at Bologna. They astonished the
English by appearing among them, in 1244,
and requiring from the opulent, a house to live
in, telling them they were privileged by the
pope to be exempt from being reproached by
any body ; and that they had from him power
to excommunicate those who were hardy enough
to reprove them. Two citizens, Ralph Hosier,
and William Sabernes, were wise enough to
accommodate them with a house in this place,
and became friars in it. Originally they car
ried in their hands an iron cross, which they
afterwards changed into one of silver. They
wore a cross, made of red cloth, on their gar
ment ; which at first was grey, and in latter
times altered to blue. One Adams was the
first prior: Edmund Streatham, the last. Their
annual income was only 52/. 13s. 4rf. Henry
VIII. granted their house to sir Thomas Wyat,
the elder, who built a handsome mansion on
part of the site. This was the gentleman whom
Anthony Wood* (not without justice) calls
the delight of the muses, and of mankind. He
had the honour to be in great intimacy with the
congenial peer, Henry earl of Surry. They
were the refiners of our poetry : the elegant
* Athenae Ox. i. 56.

12 , LUMLEY-HOUSE.
effusions of their muses are united in a little
book published in 1585, intitled, " Songes and
" Sonnets, by the right honourable Henry
" Howard, late earl of Surry, and others."
Sir Thomas died in 1541, of a violent fever, in
Dorsetshire, contracted by hard riding to con
duct to court the emperor's ambassador, who
had landed at Falmouth. He was highly cele
brated by- his noble friend, and by every person
of genius in the age in which he lived.
This house afterwards became the residence;
of John lord Lumley, a celebrated warrior in
the time of Henry VIII.; who distinguished
himself greatly at the brattle of Floddon, by his
valour, and the number of men he brought
into the field. Notwithstanding this, his zeal
for the old religion engagpd him in the Pil
grimage of Grace ; from which he with much
dexterity extricated himself and followers.
But his only son soon after lost his head, for
his concern in a fresh insurrection. John lord
Lumley, grandson of the first, was among the
few nobility of that time who had a taste for
literature. He had the good fortune to marry
his sister Barbara to my illustrious country
man Humphrey Llwyd, of Denbigh*, and by
* Tour in Wales, vol. ii. 31.

OLD NAVY-OFFICE. 13
his assistance formed a considerable library,
which at present makes a most valuable part in
the British Museum.
In the place of this, rose the Navy Office, a
building of no beauty; in which the comp
troller of the navy used to reside, and all busi
ness respecting the payment of seamen's wages,
and many other naval matters were transacted;
but this office is now removed to Somerset-
house. In the place of the old navy-office,
the India Company have erected a most magni
ficent warehouse/ a regular oblong square, of
about two hundred and fifty feet, by a hundred
and sixty; inclosing a court of a hundred and »
fifty, by sixty, entered by an arched gateway.
This is the great repository of the teas. I am
told that the searchers, who have frequent oc
casions to thrust their arms deep into the chests,
often feel numbnesses and paralytic affections ?
The friars hall was converted into a glass
house, for the making of drinking glasses ;
which, with forty thousand billets of wood,
was destroyed by fire, in 1575*. The manu
facture was set up in 1557, and was the first of
the kind known in England. I may add here,
* Stow's Survaie, 293.

14 EARLS OF NORTHUMBERLAND.
that the finest flint glass was first made at the
Savoy; and the first glass plates for looking-. ¦
glasses, and coach windows, in 1673, at Lam
beth, under the patronage of George Villiers
duke of Buckingham.
I find among the list of persons interred in
the church belonging to these friars, the name
of sir Rhys Gryffydd, a Welshman, who lost
his head on Tower-hill in 153 J. His servant,:
John Hughes, was hanged at Tyburn the same:,'
afternoon*. I cannot learn what their crimes
was, in a reign when very trifling matters, and
often bare suspicion, brought on a capital
penalty. <»>
Near this place stood another Norihumber-.
land-house, inhabited, in the reign of Henry
VI. by two of the earls of Northumberland :
one lost his life in the battle of St. Albans; the
other, his son, in that of Towton. Being de-?
serted by the Percies, the gardens were con
verted into bowling-allies, and other parts,
says Stow, into dicing-houses. This, I imagine;
was the first of those pernicious places of resort,
for he calls it " their ancient and only patron
" of misrule." * HolinsUed.

SHARRINGTON-HOUSE. 15
In Mark-lane, near this, stood the magnifi
cent house* built by sir William Sharrington,
a chief officer of the mint, in the reign of Ed
ward VI. He was the instrument of the am
bition of Thomas Seymour, lord admiral : he
fell with his master, was condemned and at
tainted : and Sharrington-house bestowed on
the earl of Arundel, being thought a fit habita
tion for that great peer, on account of its size
and splendour. Let me add, that sir William
was pardoned, emerged from his misfortunes,
and soon raised another considerable estate,
under the favour of Seymour's rival, Dudley
duke of Northumberland f ;, possibly at the
price of the admiral's blood, against whom he
was chief evidence. Mr. Walpole has a draw
ing of sir William, after Holbein.
At the bottom of this lane, in Tower-street,
stands the church of All Hallows Barking.
Legend says, that Edward I. when prince of
Wales, was admonished, by a vision, to erect
an image here to the glorious virgin ; and, in
case he visited it five times in the year, he was
to be victorious over all nations, and in parti
cular over Scotland and Wales. The image
* Strype, i. book ii. 41. t Carte, i. 321.

16 ALL HALLOWS BARKING.
grew into great repute, and vast were the pil
grimages to it, till the suppression. An indul
gence of forty days was granted to every one
who performed tljis act of devotion*.
In this church was deposited, for a time, the
bodies of that accomplished nobleman Henry
Howard f, earl of Surry, and two prelates,
who ended their days by the axe on Tower-hill.
The ashes of the ill-fated Surry were, in 1614,
removed to Framlingham, in Suffolk. The'
pious Fisher ( whose head was placed on a pole'
on the bridge) and the indiscreet Laud. The-
first was removed to the chapel in the Tower,
to rest by the side of his friend sir Thomas
More J. ' The remains of Laud, beheaded in
1644, lay here till 1663, when they were re
moved to St. John's college, Oxford, over
which, he had presided §.
In this parish was designed a hospital for
poor priests, and for lunatics of both sexes, as
early as the time of Edward III.; but not
taking effect, it was granted to the hospital of
St. Katherine ; which was to find a chaplain
* Newcourt, i. 238, 765.
t Collins, i. 95. Stow's Survaie, 250.
t Weever, 501. § Newcourt, 241.

THE TOWER. POSTERN GATE. 17
to pray for, the soul of Robert Denton, who
had piously intended the first foundation*.
In Seething-rane, or,as itw.as called ancientlj'*
Sydon-larie, which runs into Tower-street, stood
a large house built by sir John Allen, lord
mayor , and privy Counsellor to Henry VIII.
It was afterwards sir Francis Walsingham's,
arid after that became the property of Robert
Devereux, second earl of_Essex.
Ffom Aldgate the walls ran southward to
the Thames, and ended, as is generally sup
posed, with a fort ; on the site of which arose
the present Tower of London. To the north
of it was a postern, for the benefit of foot pas
sengers: it was originally a fair and strong
gate, built of stone brought out of Kent, and
Caen in Normandy. It stood till the year
1440, when it fell down; not, as is conjectured,
from the pulling down of three hundred feet of
the adjacent wall in 1189, for the purpose of
enlarging and strengthening the Tower, but
from decay; it being made at the same time
with that fortress, which was built by the
Conqueror in. his first year, and strongly gar
risoned with Normans, to secure the allegiance
of his new and reluctant subjects.
* Newcourt, 2i3.
VOL. II, C

18 WHITE TOWER.
The first work seems to have been suddenly
flung up in 1066, on his taking possession of
the capital: this included in it a part of the
ancient wall; for, soon after the murder of sir
Thomas Overbury, a dispute arose whether he
was poisoned in the liberties of the city, or in
the county of Middlesex: on examination, part
of the ancient wall was discovered; and his
apartment found to be to the west of it, and in
consequence, the criminals were tried within
the jurisdiction of the city. Had it been on
the other side, it would have been adjudged to
have been within the county. There is another
proof of this fortress having been built upon
the remains of another more ancient ; for, in
1720, in digging on the south side of what is
called Caesar's chapel, were discovered some
old foundations of stone, three yards broad, so
strongly cemented that it was with the utmost
difficulty they were forced up.
The great square tower called the White
Tower, . and by the Welsh, Twr Gwyn, or
Twr y Bryn-gwyn, was erected in the year
1078, when it arose under the directions of the
great military architect Gundulph, bishop of
Rochester*; who gave this noble specimen of
* Ginllelro. Pictav, inter Script. Normann, p. 205.

Cesar's tower. 19
innovation in the art of castle-building, and
which was pursued by him in the execution of
Rochester-castle, on the banks of the Med-
way. Stow tells us, from Edmund de Had-
denham, that during the time Gundulph was
employed in this work, he was lodged in the
house of one Edmere, a citizen of London*.
This building was long dignified with the name'
of Caesar's tower ; but that illustrious invader
probably never saw London : originally it stood
by itself. Fitzstephen gives it the name of Arx
Palatina, the Palatine tower ; and says, with
his usual romance, that the mortar of the foun
dation was tempered with the blood of beasts.
The commander had the title of palatine be
stowed on him, being, as Was the case with se
veral of the great men of that time, who had
places of importance trusted to their care, en
dowed with regal powers ; such, for example,
as the earl palatine, Hugh Lupus, had in the
county palatinate of Chester f .
Within this tower is a very ancient chapel,
for the use of such of our kings and queens who
wished to pay their devotion here. By Stow's
description (for I never saw it) it seems coeval
* Survaie, 73. f Lord Lyttelton's Henry II. iii. 139-
c2

20 ROYAL APARTMENTS IN THE TOWER.
with the building : he described it as having a
long flight of steps to it, as being darksome,
and venerable for the pillars, which are very
plain ; but that it was in his time filled with
our valuable old records *.
In 1092 a violent tempest did great injury to
the Tower: but it was repaired by William
Rufus, and his successor. The first added ano
ther castellated building on the south side, be
tween it and the Thames, which was afterwards
called St. Thomas's tower. Beneath that was
Traitors' -gate, through which state prisoners
were brought from the river ; and under ano
ther, properly enough called The Bloody ; for,
till these happier ages, there was little dif
ference between confinement, and the scaffold,
or private assassination. i
Ye towers of Julius, Loudon's lasting shame,
With many a foul and midnight murder fed.
In the south-east angle of the inclosure were
the royal apartments, for the Tower was a
palace during near five hundred years, and only
ceased to be so on the accession of queen Eli
zabeth. Here fell the meek usurper Henry VI. by the
dagger of the profligate Glocester. Here, full
* Strype's Stow, i. book i. p. 69.

MURDERS IN THE TOWER. 21
of horrors, died, by the hands of hired ruffians,
the unsteady Clarence. Here the sweet inno
cents Edward V. and his brother, duke of
York, perished, victims to the ambition of
their remorseless uncle. And the empoison
ing of sir Thomas Overbury makes up the
sum of the known murders, the reproaches
of our ancient fortress. We have here a strait
room or dungeon, called, from the misery the
unhappy occupier of this very confined place
endures, the Little Ease. But this will appear
a luxurious habitation, when compared with
the inventions of the age of Louis XI. of
France ; with his iron cages, in which persons
of rank lay for whole years ; or his Oubliettes,
dungeons made in form of reversed cones, con
cealed with trap-doors, down which dropped
the unhappy victims of the tyrant, brought
there by Tristan l'Hermite, his companion and
executioner in ordinary. Sometimes their sides
were plain, sometimes set with knives, or sharp-
edged wheels; but in either case, they were
true Oubliettes: the devoted were certain to
fall into the land where all things were forgotten.
The Tower was first inclosed by William
Longchamp, bishop of Ely, and chancellor of
England in the reign of Richard I. This

22 THE DITCH, AND BULWARK.
haughty prelate having a quarrel with John,
third brother to Richard, under pretence of
guarding against his designs, surrounded the
whole with walls embattled, and made on the
outside a vast ditch, into which, in after-times,
the water from the Thames was introduced.
Different princes. added other works. The pre
sent contents, within the walls, are twelve acres
and five rods ; the circuit, on the outside of
the ditch, one thousand and fifty- two feet. It
was again inclosed with a mud-wall by Henry
III.: this was placed at a distance from the
ditch, and occasioned the taking down of part
of the city wall ; which was resented by the
citizens ; who, pulling down this precinct of
mud, were punished by the king with a fine of
a thousand marks.
Edward IV. built the Lions tower : it was
originally called the bulwark; but received
the former name from its use. A menagery
had very long been a piece of regal state;
Henry I. had his at his manor of Woodstock,
where he kept lions, leopards, lynxes, porcuT
pines, and several other uncommon beasts.
They were afterwards removed to the Tower.
Edward II. commanded the sheriffs of London
to pay the keepers of the king's leopards six

ROYAL MENAGERY. 23
pence a day, for the sustenance of the leopards;
and three halfpence a day for the diet of the
keeper, out of the fee-farm of the city. I
should have mentioned before, that Henry
issued his order to the sheriffs, to supply four
pence a day for the maintenance of his white
bear (urso nostro albo), and his keeper, in the
Tower of London. They were also to provide
a muzzle, and an iron chain to hold the said
bear out of the water ; and a long cord to hold
it during the time it was fishing in the Thames:
they were besides ordered to build a small house
in the Tower for the king's elephant ( elefantem
nostrum) and to make provision both for beast
and keeper*.
The royal menagery is to this day exceedingly
well supplied. In April 1787, there was a
leopard, of a quite unknown species, brought
from Bengal. It was wholly black, but the
hair was marked, on the back, sides, and neck,
with round clusters of small spots, of a glossy
and the most intense black; the tail hung se
veral inches beyond the length of the legs, and
was very full of hair. Here were also two
tigers : one had been here some time, and its
* Madox Antiq. Excheq. i. 376.

24 tower-hill:
ground-color had faded into a pale sickly sandi-
ness; the* other, young and vigorous, and al
most fresh from its native woods, was almost
of an orange colour ; and its black stripes, and
the white parts, were most pure in their kinds*.
The little book sold in the Tower, will give
a very satisfactory account of all its curiosities,
natural and artificial. To that I refer my rea
der. For a considerable time, there was a dispute
between the crown arid the city, about the
right to the Tower hill (the Gwynfryn of the
Welsh ) . In the reign of Edward IV. the king's
1 officers erected there a gallows, and a scaffold
for the execution of offenders. The citizens
complained; and Edward immediately disa
vowed the act, by public proclamation. From
that time the fatal apparatus is always provided
by the city. The condemned are delivered to
the sheriffs by the lieutenant, who receives from
the former a Receipt for their delivery ; the
sheriffs then see execution done, as in other
places. ;
The first whom I recollect -to have suffered
* Engraved and described by M. de la Metheiie, dans le
Journal de Physique, Juillet, 1788, p. 45, tab. ii.

PERSONS executed there. 25
here by the more honorable death of the axe,
was in 1388, when sir Simon de Burley, knight
of the garter, tutor of Richard II. and the
most accomplished man of his time, fell a vic
tim to the malice of the potent faction, which
had usurped the regal authority. Queen Anne,
the good queen Anne, went on her knees to the
duke of Glocester, the king's uncle, to implore
mercy ; and continued in that attitude three
hours before the inexorable tyrant.
There was, during a very long period, a bar
barous meanness, a species of insult to the un
happy criminals, which is in our days happily
changed into every species of tenderness and
humanity, consistent with public justice and
security.. In revenge for the death of sir Simon,
and many others who suffered in the same cause,
the great earl of Arundel, Richard Fitzalan,
was hurried instantly from the place of trial,
the palace at Westminster, to Tower-hill : his
arms and his hands were bound ; and the king
glutted his eyes with the bloody scene. That
great peer, Thomas duke of Norfolk, who was
confined here in the last year of Henry VIII.
was reduced to beg for sheets. He was to have
lost his head, but was saved by the death of
the tyrant on the yery day ordered for his exe-

26 EXECUTIONS ON TOWER-HILL.
cution. He was kept in custody during the
next short reign, but was released on the ac
cession of queen Mary. He mounted his horse
at the edge of fourscore, to assist in quelling
the insurrection of sir Thomas Wyat, in 1554.
This served to fill the Tower with new subjects
for the mean insults of the times. Sir Thomas,
and the rest of the prisoners, were brought into
the Tower through the Traitors'-gate. The
lieutenant received them, one by one, with in
sults and gross abuse. When sir Thomas ap
peared, gallantly dressed, the lieutenant ac
tually collared him : sir Thomas gave him a
fierce and reproachful look, bravely telling
him, This is no masterie now!
One person of rank suffered here by the more
infamous way of the halter. I should not men
tion sir Gervis Elwayes, lieutenant of the
ToWer, who suffered here, in 1615, for his
concern in the murder of sir Thomas Overbury,
but for the great instruction which may be ga
thered fro .1 his end, and his excellent dying
speech. For there is something very peculiar
in his admonition to the spectators, against ap
pealing to Heaven by a rash vow; for, having
been greatly addicted to gaming, he had said
seriously in his prayers, Lord, let me hangef

CHAPEL IN THE TOWER. 27
if ever I play more: and yet he broke it a
thousand times*. Of what utility would be a
sensible collection of these proofs of the Finger
of God, exemplified to mankind in the detec
tion and punishment of every species of crime!
The church of St. Petrus ad Vinculo, with
in the Tower, has been the undistinguishing
repository of the headless bodies of numbers,
who ended their days on the adjacent hill ; or,
when greatly favoured, within the fortress.
The ancient church was much more splendid,
it being occasionally the place at which the
kings of England performed their orisons. In
Henry III.'s time here were stalls for the king
and queen : a chancel dedicated to St. Peter,
and another to St. Mary. The church was
adorned with a fine cross, images of saints, and
various paintings, bene % bonis coloribus. Also
several holy figures in painted glass ; all done
by that early lover and patron of the arts in
England, the monarch just mentioned f.
To the present church, after his execution^
was finally removed the body of the conscien-
* See the whole in the 6rst xiv yeares of king James's
reign, p. 150.
j Strype'sStow,i,booki.6"$. Mr.^Talpole's Anecdotes,!. 4.

28 EXECUTED PERSONS INTERRED
tious amiable prelate Fisher, bishop of Roches
ter; a victim to his opinion of the pope's su
premacy, and the treachery of the attorney-
general Rich, who, under pretence of consult
ing him, obtained his confidence, and betrayed
him. The pope rewarded his orthodoxy with
a cardinal's hat, but it did not arrive till the
poor bishop's head was on a pole on London-
bridge. His headless corse was removed, to be
near that of his friend, who suffered about
three weeks after, in the same cause, the great
sir Thomas More. But his body did not long
keep company with that of his'brother sufferer,
nor his head on the bridge. His affectionate
daughter, Margaret Roper, procured the one
to be removed to Chelsea ; and the head, ac
cidentally blown into the Thames, to be given
to her. She kept it during life as a reliquej
and directed that after her death it should be
lodged in her arras and buried with her.
The beauteous Anna Bullein, on May 19tb,
1536, for a fictitious charge of adultery, by a
tyrant lusting for a new object ; and the pro
fligate Catherine Howard, on a full conviction
of the same crime; rest herev. George lord
Rochford, the innocent brother of the former,
involved in the accusation, preceded her to the

I#THE CHURCH IN THE TOWER. 29
grave by two days ; as his infamous wife, a
cause of their death, accompanied, unpitied,
her mistress Catherine Howard, in execution
and in sepulchre. It is impossible not to mo
ralize on comparing the manner in which she
was brought prisoner to this fatal fortress, with
the gay and splendid pageantry which attended
her and her savage spouse from Greenwich by
water to the same plaee, on May 29th, 1533 ;
and from the Tower, two days after, with still
greater magnificence, to' her coronation. She
rejoiced too publicly on the death of Catherine
of Arragon, whose place she most wrongfully
usurped : in ,less than five months, she herself
fell as a criminal*. As I cannot discover the
place of interment of the venerable Margaret
countess of Salisbury, beheaded on the green
within the Tower, on May 27th, 1541, I must
suppose that it was within the chapel. There
is no reason to imagine that the tyrant would
pay more respect to her remains, than to those
of his royal consorts. This illustrious woman
was daughter to George duke of Clarence, and
last Of the royaL line of Plantagenet. That
* See a very curious account of the processions, in the, An
tiquarian Repertory, iii. 202.

30 EXECUTED PERSONS INTERRED
seems to have been her only crime, except that
of being mother to cardinal Pole, to whom
Henry bore the most inveterate hatred. She
was attainted by a servile parliament, in 1539,
upon no other proof than that of a banner,
with the. five wounds of Christ embroidered on
it, being found. This being the symbol chosen
by the northern rebels, was thought sufficient
to establish her guilt. The king, on a trifling
insurrection, in which it was impossible she
could have any concern, ordered her to be put
to death. The executioner directed her to
lay her head on the block, which she refused
to do, telling him, that she knew of no guilt,
and would not submit to die like a traitor. He
pursued her about the scaffold, aiming at her
hoary head, and at length took it off, after
mangling the poor victim, of seventy years of
age, in the most barbarous manner.
That meteor Thomas Cromwel, earl of Essex,
the great prompter of the suppression of reli
gious houses, experienced the common lot of
the preceding. He suffered, among other
charges, for being a favorer of heretics ; yet
died in the firm profession of the Catholic re
ligion. The turbulent Thomas Seymour, baron Sud-

IN THE CHURCH IN THE TOWER. 31
ley, and lord high admiral, in 1549 was be
headed, and buried in this church, try a war
rant from his own brother, the protector So
merset. On January 24th, 1552, \he protector
himself mounted the same scaffoloV an^L not
withstanding his high rank, , was flurvg intothe
same grave among the attainted herd\ and InV.
ambitious rival, the instrument of hi\ death,
John Dudley, duke of Northumberland^ lost
his head and was laid by his side, on tne 22d
of August, 1553. So short, so vain are, the
dreams of power and ambition !
The favourite earl of Essex, Robert Deve-
reux, was reluctantly given to the block by his
fond mistress, after a long struggle between
fear and affection. Mr. Walpole observes,
that it was a fashion to treat the passion of that
illustrious princess as a romance. She, it is
alleged, was sixty-eight, but it was forgotten
that the earl was only thirty-four. Let their
ages have been reversed, you would never have
heard of the unhappy love of Elizabeth.
Beneath the communion table reposes the
handsome, restless, ungrateful son of Charles II.
the duke of Monmouth. His ambition, like
that of many of those he followed to this place,
occasioned his death. He is said to have died

32 DUKE OF MONMOUTH.
calmly; and to have acknowledged the guilt:
of rebellion : but love preserved her influence
to the last moment." He was married very
young, and for interested motives. He had
made a connection of the most tender nature
with lady Harriet Wentworth, who lived with
him as his wife. He could not, with all the
arguments of our best divines, be convinced of
the sin of adultery ; he called her the choice of
his ripened years. I have been told a tradition,
that lady Harriet had placed herself in a win
dow, to take a last and farewell look ; he Avas
master enough of himself to make her a grace
ful bow. With more certainty can I say, that
the king, on the evening of the execution, vir
sited the widowed dutchess, to give assurance
of his attention to her and her children, Con
solation she did not want, for she had been se
parated from him ; and when, at the duke's
earnest request, she had an interview with him
in the Tower, their interview, was, as Barillon
expresses it, aigre depart et d' autre*.
The repentant earl of Kilmarnockj and the
.rough and fearless lord Balmerino, avowing
the goodness of his cause to the lastj were de-
* Dalryinple's Memoirs, ii. l6"8.

LORD LOVAT.

33

posited here August 18tb, 1746. The inscrip
tions on the leaden plates of their coffins are
here shown to strangers. In the following year
the infamous Simon lord Lovat was interred in
the same ground, after mounting the scaffold
with the intrepidity of inuocence. He certainly
was in his dotage, or, what is more probable,
lost to all sense of shame for his immoral and
most abandoned life, when he could repeat to
the spectators,
Nam genus et proavos, Szqitce nonfecimus ipsi,
Vix ea nostra voco.
Besides these headless trunks, numbers of
good people lie here, who went to their graves
from their quiet beds. Among them, sir Ri
chard Blount, and sir Michael his son, both
lieutenants of the Tower. Sir Richard died in
1564; sir Michael in 1592: a splendid monu
ment was erected to each. They are repre
sented in armour, kneeling; sir Richard with
his two sons, his wife, and two daughters, in
the dress of the times; sir Michael has a long
beard, is attended by three sons in cloaks, his
wife, and daughter.
In a corner, on the floor, is an ancient mo
nument of a man recumbent, his hands closed
VOL. II. »

34 BLOOD'S ATTEMPT
as in prayer, his hair lank, his chin beardless;
his lady by him in a hood ; round his neck is a
collar of SS. and a rose pendent. This is to
preserve the memoryof sir Richard Cholmondly,
knight, lieutenant of the Tower in the time of
Henry VIII.
I pass over less interesting monuments, to
the little stone on the floor, which records,
that " Talbdt Edwards, late keeper of his ma-
" jesty's regalia, 30th September, 1674, aged
tc 80," was deposited here. Was it not a shame*
less reign, no remembrance of this good and
faithful servant would have been suffered to
remain. This venerable man was. keeper of
the regalia, when the ruffian Blood made the
notorious attempt on the crown, and other or
naments of majesty. Never was a more deter
mined villain : " with a head to contrive, and
" heart to execute any wickedness." Blood
Contrived, under the guise of a clergyman, to
make acquaintance with Mr. Edwards; insi
nuated himself into his favour and confidence.
After various visits, with the assistance of se
veral other associates, he seized on the old
man, whom he had requested to show the
jewels to his friends, gagged him, and on his
resisting, struck him on the head, with a mallet,

TO STEAL THE CROWN. 35
and gave him several stabs. Edwards thought
it prudent to counterfeit death. Blood put the
crown under his parson's gown: another put
the globe in his breeches : a third, not being able
to conceal the sceptre by reason of its length,
broke off the rich ruby and put it in his pocket.
As soon as they were gone, Edwards forced out
the gagg, and gave the alarm ; they were in
stantly pursued, and three of them soon taken,
Blood struggled hard for his prize, saying}
when it was wrested from him, It Was a gal-
v lant attempt, though unsuccessful; it was' for
a CROWN. The curiosity of the king was excited to see
a man engaged in so many important villanies :
under pretence of obtaining discoveries, his
majesty made the wretch a visit; from that
moment the artful Blood dated his security:
he told the king so many plausible tales ; such
indifference he shewed for his own life, such
anxiety for that of his majesty (for he insinu
ated that his comrades would certainly revenge
his death, even on his sacred majesty) that in
a short time he obtained his pardon. It was
necessary to apply to the duke of Ormond for
permission, the ruffian having made the attempt
on his grace's tife not long before. The duke
d 2

36 BLOOD PARDONED AND PENSIONED.
nobly answered, " If his majesty could forgive
" him stealing the* crown, he might easily for-
" give the attempt upon his life; and if such
" was his majesty's pleasure, that was a sufii-
" cient reason for him, and his lordship (the
" earl of Arlington, who brought the message)
" might spare the rest." Blood was not only
pardoned, but received into favour, had a pen
sion of five hundred a-year, and was perpetually
seen at court, enjoying the smiles of majesty,
and even successfully employing his interest,
as- a most respectable patron. But all good
men looked on him with horror, and consi
dered him as a Sicarius to a -profligate set of
men, to overawe any who had integrity enough
to resist the measures of a most profligate
court. This miscreant died peacefully in his
bed, August 29th* 1680, fearlessly, and without
any signs of penitence ; totally hardened and
forsaken by Heaven.
The innocent Talbot Edwards, so far from
receiving the grateful reward of his fidelity and
sufferings, got with great difficulty a pension
of two hundred a-year; and his son, who was
active in taking Blood, one hundred more: but
the order for the pensions was so long delayed,
and the expences attending the cure of the good

LAWLESS EXECUTIONS. . 37
old man's wound so great, that he was forced
to sell his order for a hundred pounds ready
money, and the son his for fifty. It is singular,
that this aged man survived his injuries seven
years: the attempt was made May 9th, 1671,
and the inscription, contrary to the assertions
of some historians, fixes his death in 1680*.
Others have fallen, on this fatal hill, by the
hands of lawless violence. In the rebellion of
Wat Tyler, his miscreant followers pursued,
with unrelenting rage, the nobility and better
rank of people. That worthy primate, Sudbury,
archbishop of Canterbury; sir Robert Hales,
treasurer of England ; and many others, took
refuge with their youthful king in the Tower.
It was then garrisoned with six hundred armed
men, and six hundred archers; who, appalled
at the mob, stood motionless. The rebels
seized on the primate; sir Robert; John Legge,
Serjeant at arms; and William Appledore, the
king's confessor; all of whom they instantly
beheaded on Tower-hill ; the archbishop with
peculiar circumstances of cruelty, being almost
hewn to pieces by their cruel rage.
In 1450, the mob under Jack Cade, in an
* See the several accounts in Kenner, iii. 283 — Strype'i
Stow, i. book i. -92 to 96. — Brit. Biography, article Blood.

38 LAWLESS EXECUTIONS.
endarkened and savage period, forced out of
this fortress James lord Say, whom the king
had committed to appease the furious commons.
They brought him to Guildhall, and from
thence hurried him to the Standard in Cheap>
side, where they struck off his head, tied his
naked body to a horse's tail, dragged it to
Southwark, and there cut it into quarters.
They then beheaded his son-in-law, sir James
Cromer, placed theheads on poles, and in every
street made them kiss each other*. What a
horrid parallel have we not seen in the late
year, amidst the polished and enlightened
French ! ! ! Two men of rank, M. de Foulon,
and his son-in-law M. Berthier, were devoted
as victims by the barbarous populace. They
Were first hung, with a studied prolongation
of their sufferings : their heads were struck off,
and, by a refinement in Cruelty (beyond the
invention of Jack Cade ) the heart of de Foulon
was torn out, and brought dancing on a pole,
to salute his unhappy son-in-law on his way to
execution : nor was any insult to their mangled
trunks omitted by the furious canaille. But
the acts of a mob ought never to tarnish a nar
tional character.
* Fabian's Chronicle, part vi. 451.

LAWLESS EXECUTIONS. 39
Within the Tower, on the green before the
chapel, was beheaded the accomplished lord:
Hastings. His fidelity to the children of his
late master Edward IV. was the cause of his
death. He was dragged from the council-
table, by order of their ambitious protector,
Glocester, who swore he would have his head
before he dined; and such was his haste, that
the unfortunate lord had only time to make a
short shrift to a priest who casually passed by,
and his head was taken off on a log which hap
pened to lie in the way. So little did he expect
death, that, scarcely an hour before, he was
exulting in the fate of his enemies, lord Rivers,
lord Richard Grey, and sir Thomas Vaughan,
at Pontefract; yet all four underwent the stroke
of the headsman on the very same day. Be
sides these, I can make a miscellaneous recital
of several who died within these walls, by na
tural deaths, by suicide, or by accident.
Elizabeth, wife of Henry VII. breathed her
last here in child-bed, in 1502.
Here may be truly said to have fled indignant
to the shades, the high spirit of Henry earl of
Northumberland. He was confined for the
same cause as the earl of Arundel, by the jea
lous Elizabeth- -The B-  , exclaims the

40 REMARKABLE PERSONS
pari, shall not have my estate; and On June
21st, 1585, shot himself with a pistol loaden
with three bullets.
Philip earl of Arundel, son of the duke of
Norfolk, beheaded for aspiring to the bed of
Mary queen of Scots, was condemned to death
for favouring that ill-fated princess. He was
indeed reprieved, but suffered to languish till
his death, in 1595: his bones were kept in an
iron chest. A late great dutchess of the same
family procured his skull, had it enchased in
gold, and kept it to exalt her devotion, as the
relique of a martyr to religion.
Arthur earl of Essex, accomplice with lord
Russel, ended here his days. Despair seized
him on his confinement, and, forsaken by
Heaven, he put an end to his existence by the
razor. He was of a party charged with equal
freedom in religious as political principles. He
vindicated and practised suicide. His death
was charged on the court, but without the
least grounds. The prince who could bring
lord Russel to the block by a legal course,
need never have incurred the odium of assassi
nation on a less important partner of the con
spiracy. Here died, in September 1592, sir John Per*

WHO HAVE DIED IN THE TOWER, 41
rot, the supposed son of Henry VTII. by Mary,
wife to Thomas Per rot, esq. of Haroldstone,
in the county of Pembroke. In his great sta
ture, and high spirit, he bore a strong resem
blance to that monarch. Young Perrot first
attracted his notice by a quarrel he had with
two of the yeoman of the guard, whom he
foiled in a quarrel he had at the stews in South-
wark. He was in high favour in the following
reign. In that of Mary fell into disgrace, on
account of his attachment to the reformed reli
gion. When queen Elizabeth succeeded, heex-
periericed the smiles of his sovereign and sister.
At length was constituted lord deputy of Ire
land, where he grew very unpopular, by reason
of his haughty conduct; was recalled, unjustly
accused, and condemned of treason. His sen
tence was respited; but he died of a broken
heart, unable, from his lofty spirit, to brook the
ill-treatment he met with from one he thought
so near an ally.
In this prison also sunk a victim to unmerited
misfortunes, the innocent Arabella Stuart,
daughter of Charles Stuart, earl of Lenox, and
younger brother to lord Darriley, father to
James I. Her affinity to the crown brought
her under the jealousy of both Elizabeth and
that monarch. The, conspiracy in 1603, for

42 INTERESTING INCIDENTS
which lord Cobham, sir Walter Raleigh, and
others, were condemned, was supposed, among
other objects, to have that of placing the
crown on the' head of this unfortunate lady;
on which she was confined to her own house.
She found means to be married privately
to sir William Seymour, second son of Ed
ward lord Beauchamp, son of the earl of
Hertford, afterwards restored to the dukedom
of Somerset. On discovery of the wedding,
they were committed to the Tower, to the care
of different keepers. They artfully contrived
their escape: he arrived safe at Dunkirk; the
lady was taken at sea, and conveyed back , to
her prison; where her misfortunes deprived her
of her senses. She was released by death,
September 27th, 1615; and found an honour
able interment in Henry VHth's chapel, near
the remains of her ill-fated relation Mary queen
of Scots. Her husband lived to succeed to
the title of Somerset; and was the faithful
servant and friend of Charles I.
I shall mention two other noblemen who
Were confined within these walls, on account of
some particularities which attended their du
rance. The first is Henry earl of Northum
berland, imprisoned on the very just suspicion
of being privy to the gunpowder treason.

OF PERSONS CONFINED IN THE TOWER. 43
During the time he was in custody, he amused
himself most rationally in the company of
learned men, who were permitted to have access
to him. Among others, were three who were
called his Wizards : possibly he might be fond
of astronomy, or dabble in judicial astrology;
circumstances that, with the vulgar, might
easily fasten on him the imputation of dealing
with the devil.
A very remarkable accident befell Henry
Wriothesley, earl of Southampton, the friend
and companion of the earl of Essex, in his fatal!
insurrection: after he had been confined there
a small time, he was surprised by a visit fromi
his favourite cat, which had found its way to
the Tower; and, as tradition says, reached its
master by descending the chimney of his apart
ment. I have seen at Bulstrode, the summer ,
residence of the late dutchess of Portland, an
original portrait of this earl, in the place of his
confinement, in a black dress and cloak, with
the faithful animal sitting by him*. Perhaps
this picture might have been the foundation of
the tale.
The fallen lord chancellor, the. cruel intru-
* In the same collection is another portrait of the same
sobleman, out of confinement, richly dressed, with a rich
helmet and armour lying by him.

44 INTERESTING INCIDENTS IN THE TOWER.
rnent of despotism under James II. died, im
prisoned here, of a broken heart, aided by in
temperance. He was first interred in the church
belonging to the Tower; and afterwards was
removed to that of St. Mary, Aldermanbury,
and deposited near the body of his rakish son,
lord Wem. In my younger days, I have heard
of a hard-hearted insult on this once great man,
during his imprisonment. He received, as he
thought, a present of Colchester oysters; and
expressed great satisfaction at the thought of
having some friend yet left; but, on taking off
the top of the barrel, instead of the usual
contents, appeared an halter !
To conclude this melancholy list, I shall
return to ancient times, to lament the sad fate
of my countrymen, victims to English ambi
tion. Here was basely confined, by Henry III.
my countryman Gryffydd, father of our last
prince Llewelyn ap Gryffydd; who, impatient
of imprisonment, attempted to escape by lower
ing himself from the walls: the line he was
descending, by broke, and, being of a great
bulk, he was dashed to pieces, and perished" in
a most miserable manner*.
It is supposed that many of our nobility, im-
* Powel's History of Wales, 307.— Wynne's History, 263.

WELSH MANUSCRIPTS. 45
prisoned within this fortress, had obtained leave
that part of their libraries might be sent to
them, for their amusement in their solitary
hours: so that in time it became a repository
of Welsh literature. These valuable manu
scripts were at length burnt by the villany of
one Scolan, to the irreparable loss of our his
tory, and our poetry. Gutto' r Glynn, who
wrote about the year 1450, thus relates the
fact: Llyffati Cymru a"u usfrudd,
I'r Twr Gwynn aethant ar gudd ;
Ysceler oedd i Scolan,
Furw'r twrr llyfrau i'r tan.
i. e. " The books of Wales, and their destroyer,
" were concealed in the White Tower. Villa-
" nous was the deed of Scolan, when he threw
" the heaps of books into the fire*."
In the next reign, to the eternal disgrace of
the great Edward, the head of the son of
Gryffydd, the last of our princes, was placed on
these battlements, insultingly crowned with
ivy, for gallantly defending his hereditary
dominions, to which he had as good a right as
* Evans's Welsh poetry, 1 60.

46 WELSH PRINCES EXECUTED.
his more fortunate conqueror had to the crown
of England. And,-to fill the measure of mis
fortune, in a small time after, the head of prince
Dafydd was sent to accompany that of his ill-
fated brother.
Dafydd Lhwyd ap Llewelyn o Vathavarn, a
poet, who flourished in 1480, gives our country
man Owen Tudor, grandfather to Henry VII..
a nobler prison than I fear we can warrant
from history f. He certainly thought it dero
gating from the honour of Wales, to send his
hero to Newgate like a common felon. Thus
he bewails his unfortunate state, in a Cywydd
composed on the occasion. I shall give a trans
lation of the parts relative to the subject, by
the same ingenious friend J, to whom I lie under
so many similar obligations.
Tudor, in himself a host,
High-born Owen, Cambria's boast;
Cambria's flower imprison'd lies,
Where London's lofty towers rise.
Unjust the pride and rash the power.
That doom'd him to yon hostile Tower:
* See Itymer's Feed. x. 685, 7og.
t The reverend Richard Williams, of Vron. See Appen
dix, for a similar ppem, by the same gentleman.

OWEN TUDOR. 47
For him our eyes with pity flow,
For him our breasts with vengeance glow.
Are Owen's feet with fetters bound?
With poetry I'll ease the wound:
Around his legs my muse shall twine,
And break them with her strains divine.
How wondrous are the powers of song,
To succour them who suffer wrong!
The next explains the cause of his imprison
ment. Tis not for plunder, fraud or debt,
That Owen this misfortune met.
'Tis not for lawless force of arms;
But for a queen's resistless charms,
Fertile Gallia's daughter fair,
That Owen's feet those fetters wear.
Worthy, virtuous, comely, tall,
Catherine did his heart enthrall,
Who could blame th' adventurous youth?
Fam'd for valour, honour, truth !
To him this gem of Gallia's shore
Three renowned children bore,
Warlike youths, their father's pride,
France's royal blood allied ;
Grandsons to the Gallic throne;
' Loyal barons of our own.
From them in future times shall spring
Many a gallant British king*.
* See the account of Owen Tudor, in my Tower in Wales,
ii. 256.

48 6T. CATHERINE'S HOSPITAL
In the reign of Richard III. sir William
Gryffydd, of Penrhyn, chamberlain of North
Wales, suffered imprisonment in the Tower, at
the same time with lord Strange, for their sup
posed attachment to the interests of the duke
of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII. Sir
William had also his poetical friend, in Howel
ap Reinalt,, who, in a Cywydd, celebrates the
confinement of his patron.
A little to the south of East Smithfield,
is the Hospital of St. Catherine's, originally
founded in 1148, by Matilda of Boulogne, wife
of king Stephen, for the repose of her son
Baldwin, and her daughter Matilda: and for
the maintenance of a master, brothers and
sisters, and other poor persons. In 1273, Eli
nor, widow of Henry, possessed herself of it,
dissolved the old foundation, refounded it in
honour of the same saint, for a master, three
brethren chaplains, three sisters, ten Bedes
Women, and six poor scholars. Queen Phi-
lippa, wife of Edward III. was a great bene
factress to this hospital : and to this day it
remains under queenly patronage, according to
the reservation made by the pious re-foundress
Elinor. Our present gracious queen is the
twenty-ninth royal patroness.

AND CHURCH. 49
The mastership is a sinecure of considerable
value. In this hospital is a house for him,
and all its members. The reader will find the
disposition of them, in the plan printed by Mr.
Nichols, in the account of St. Katherine's hos
pital, and its collegiate church ; a posthumous
work of that able antiquary the late Andrew
Coltee Ducarel, LL.D. He was interred in
the collegiate church, where a plain piece of
marble informs us of little more than the period
of his existence*
The church is a handsome Gothic building,
but almost quite lost in the various houses
which shut it up from public view. The east
window is very elegant; and instbe modern im
provements there is the utmost propriety pre
served in the imitation of the ancient architec
ture. The wooden pulpit is a curiosity: on
its eight sides are represented the ancient build
ing, and different gates of the hospital ; beneath '
each compartment extend, Ezra the Scrib&-**
stood upon a-^-pulpit of wood-^which he Ttad^
made for the — pxeachin Neh — <-e.i ;cbap. viai.*^
Under one pf the stalls is a very good carving
of the head of queen Philippa, and another of '<.
her spouse. They bear a resemblance to ther
monumental sculpture of those great personages.
vol. n, E

50 BT. CATHERINE'S CHURCH.
The most remarkable monument is that of
John Holland, duke of Exeter, who lies re
cumbent, with a fillet round his head, and in a
long gown, the weeds of peace. By him are
placed the figure of his first wife Anne, daugh
ter of Edmund earl Stafford, and widow of
Edmund Mortimer, earl of March; and ano
ther of his sister Constance, first, wife to Tho
mas Mowbray, duke of Norfolk; and after
wards to sir John Grey, eldest son of Reginald
lord Grey, of Ruthen, Ashmole says, that she
was represented, on the tomb, with the garter
round her left arm, a mark of distinction on
only two other monuments: but time hath ob
literated this badge of honor. This potent
peer was a great benefactor to the hospital,
founded in it a chauntry; and bequeathed to
the high altar in the church, " a cuppe of by-
" roll, garnished with gold, perles, and pre-
" cious stones, to be put in the sacrament,"
and numbers of other valuable effects. He
died in peace in 1447, a wonderful thing in his
family ; not fewer than four of this great house,
in little more than a century, fell by violent
deaths. Below St. Catherine's, on the river side,
stood the great breweries or Bere-hoiose, as it

BREWERIES. 51
is called in the map published in the first vo*
lume of the Civitates Orbis. They were sub
ject to regulations as early as the reign of
Henry VII.; who, in 1492, licenses John Mer*
chant, a Fleming, to export fifty tons of ale
called berre*. And in the same reign "one
Geffry Gate, probably an officer of the king's,
spoiled thebrewhouses at St. Catherine's twice,
either for sending too much abroad unlicensed,
or for brewing it too weak for their home cus
tomers f. The demand for this article from
foreign parts increased to a high degree : in
the reign of queen Elizabeth, five hundred
tons were exported at once, as is expressed, for
the queen's use, at one time ; probably for the
service of her army in the Low Countries; three
hundred and fifty barrels to Embden; three hunr
dred to Amsterdam; and again eight hundred to
, Embden. At this time there seems to liave been
a free exportation, except when checked by pro^
clamation, for fear of enhancing the priceof corn,
by excess of brewing in scarce times; but even
then it was permitted by the royal licence ;£.
Those who wish to attempt to restore the
spirit of the boisterous reign of Henry, as far
* Jtymer, xii. 271. - f Maitland, ii. IO17.
J Strype's Stow, ii. 292.
E2

52 EXTENT OF BREWERIES.
as depended on the boasted British liquor, may
use the following receipt *":
x quarters malte.
ii quarters wheet.
ii quarters ootos.
xl lb. weight of hoppys, to make lx barrel
of seugyll beer.
* It is not in my power to trace the progress of
this important article of trade. Let me only
say, that it is now a national concern : for the
duty on malt, from July 5th, 1715, to the same
day 1786, produced a million and half of
money f , to the support of the state, from a
liquor which invigorates the bodies of its wil
ling subjects, to defend the blessings they en
joy; while that from the Stygian gin enervates
and incapacitates. One of these Chevaliers de
* Custmues, &c. of London, printed in
f Vast quantities of our beer or porter are sent abroad; I
do not know the sum, but the following extract from a news
paper, will show the greatness of our breweries.
The following is a list of the chief porter brewers of Lon
don, and the barrels of strong beer they have brewed, from
Midsummer 1786, to Midsummer 1787. And we make no
doubt but it will give our readers much pleasure, to find such
a capital article of trade solely confined to England ; and the
more so, as a large quantity of the porter makes a considerable
part of our exports.

QUANTITIES BREWED IN A YEAR.

53

Malte (as an impertinent Frenchman styled a
most respectable gentleman* of the trade) has
within one year, contributed not less than fifty
thousand pounds to his own share. The sight
of a great London brewhouse exhibits a magni
ficence unspeakable. The vessels evince the
extent of the trade. Mr. Meux, of Liquor-
pond-street, Gray's-inn-lane, can show twenty**
four tons; containing, in all, thirty-five thou
sand barrels ; one alone holds four thousand

Barr th.
Whitbread, Samuel 1 50,2 80
Calvert, Felix  131,043
Thrale, Hester  105,559
Read, W.(Truemau's)^ 95,302
Calvert, John ......' 91,150
Hammond, Peter . . 90,852
Goodwie, Henry . . 66,398
Phillips, John  54,197
Meux, Richard .... 49,651
Wiggins, Matthew . . •' 40,741
Fasset, Thomas  40,279
Dawson, Ann  3.9,400
Jordan, Thomas  24,193

Barrels .
Dickinson, Joseph 23,659
Hare, Richard . . 23,251
Allen, Thomas , . 23,013
Rickinson, Rivers 1 8,640
Pearce, Richard .. 1 6,901
Coker, Thomas . . 1 6,744
Proctor, Thomas . . 16,584
Newberry, William 16,5 1 7
Hodgson, George 16,384
Bullock, Robert .. 1 6,272
Clarke, Edward . . 9,855

Total of Barrels 1,1 76,856

* The late Humphry Parsons, esq. when he was hunting
with Louis XV. excited the king's curiosity to know who he
was, and asking one of his attendants, received the above an
swer.

54 STEPNEY.
five hundred barrels of wholesome liquor;
which enables the London porter-drinkers to
undergo tasks that ten gin-drinkers would sink
under. • li;
I am now arrived at the very eastern extent
of London, as it was in the age of queen Eli
zabeth. A small village or two might be found
in the remaining part of the county of Middle
sex, but bordered by marshes, which frequently
experienced the ravages of the river. This
tract had been a manor in the Saxon times,
called Stibben-hedde, i. e. Stibben-heath. In
later days it belonged to John de Pulteney,
who had been four times lord mayor, viz. in
1330, 1331, 1333, and 1336. The bishops of
London had here a palace, as appears from an
cient records — " Given from our palace of Ste-
" bonhyth, or Stebonheath," which is sup
posed to have filled the space now covered with
several tenements*. It appears that the side
next to the Thames bad been embanked, to re
sist the fury of the floods. From the 26th of
Edward I. several inquisitions were made to
examine the state of the banks and ditches, and
the tenants, who were found negligent, were
presented as delinquents f. The church, which
* Newcourt, i. 737. f Dugdale on embanking, 69.

blackwall. 55
stands far from the river, was originally called
Ecclesia omnium Sanctorum, but was after-*
wards styled that of St. Dunstan ; for the
whole body of saints was obliged to give way to
him who had the courage to take the devil
himself by the nose *. The church is by no
means distinguished by its architecture. In it
were interred the remains of the illustrious sir
Thomas Spert, comptroller of the navy in the
time of Henry VIII. and to whom this king
dom was indebted for that salutary foundation
the Trinity-House f . Here also may be found
that curious epitaph mentioned by the Spec"
tator :
Here Thomas Saffin lyes interr'd : Ah why,
Born in New England, did in London dye 1 &c.
This vast parish is at present divided into eight
others, yet the mother parish still remains of
great extent.
The dock and ship yard, the property of Mr.
Perry, the greatest private dock in all Europe,
is at the extremity of this parish, at Blackwall,
the upper part of the eastern side of the Isle of
Dogs. It may be called the eastern end of Lon
don, being nearly a continued succession of six
» Lives of the«aints. f He died Sept. 8th, 1541,

56 WAPPING.
miles and a half of streets, from hence to Ty
burn turnpike.
The great extent of Wapping, which stretches
along the river side from St. Katherine's, arose
from the opinion of the commissioners of sewers,
in 1571, that nothing could secure the manor
from the depredations of the water, more effec
tually than the building of houses : for they
thought the tenants would net fail being atten
tive to the safety of their lives and property.
The plan succeeded, and in our days we see a
vast and populous town added to the ancient
precincts (which had stagnated for ages). A
long narrow street, well paved, and handsomely
flagged on both sides, winding along the banks
of the Thames, as far as the end of Lime-house,
an extent of near two miles; and inhabited by
multitudes of seafaring men, alternate occu
pants of sea and land : their floating tenements
lie before them. In fact, the whole river, from
the bridge, for a vast way, is covered with a
double fp«est of masts, with a^ narrow avenue in
mid-channel. Thesegive importance and safety
to the state, and supply the mutual wants of
the universe. We send the necessaries and
luxuries of our island to every part ; and, in
return^ receive every pabulum which should

SHADWELL. RADCLIFF. 57
satiate the most luxurious, wealth that ought
to make avarice cry. Hold! enough, and mat
ters for speculation for the laudable and deli
cate longings of the intellectual world.
The hamlet of Shadivell is a continuation of
the buildings along the river. Between the
houses and the water, in all this long tract of
street, are frequent docks, and small building-
yards. The passenger is often surprised with
thejsight of the prow of a ship rising over the
street, and the hulls of new ones appearing at
numbers of openings. But all that filth and
stench, which Stow complains of, exists no
longer. Execution Dock still remains at Wap-
ping, and is in use as often as a melancholy oc
casion requires. The criminals are to this day-
executed on a temporary gallows placed at low-
water mark ; but the custom of leaving the
body to be overflowed by three tides, has long
since been omitted.
The village of Radcliff, to which Wapping
now joins, is of some antiquity. From hence
the gallant sir Hugh Willoughby, on May the
20th, 1553, took his departure on his fatal
voyage for discovering the north-east passage
to China. He sailed with great pomp by
Greenwich, where the court then lay. Mutual

58 LIMEHOUSE.
honors were payed on both sides. The council
and coutiers appeared at the windows, and the
people covered the shores. The young king
alone lost the noble and novel sight, for he then
lay on his death-bed ; so that the principal ob
ject of the parade was disappointed *.
Limehouse is a continuation of the town
along the river side : it is a new creation ; and
its church, one of the fifty new churches, was
finished in 1724. This may be called the end
of London on the water-side ; but it is con
tinued by means of Poplar, a chapelry in t the
parish of Stepney (anciently a regal manor, so
named from its abundance of poplar trees)
across the upper part of the Isle of Dogs, in a
strait line to the river Lea, the division of this
county from Essex.
Wapping, Shadwell, and Limehouse, have
their respective churches ; and Poplar its cha
pel. The two first have nothing to attract the
eye. Limehouse has its awkward tower, a dull
square rising out of another, embellished with
pilasters,; heavjr pinnacles rise out of the up
permost : the whole proves how unhappily Mr.
Hawksmoor, the architect of Bloomsbury
church, exerted his genius in the obsolete art
* Hackluyr, i. 239/

POPLAR CANAL. 59
of steeple-building. The church in question
is one of the new fifty. In the year 1730 it was
added to the bills of mortality.
In our walk through Limehouse, we crossed
the New Cut, or Poplar canal, near its dis
charge into the river. This was begun about
twenty years ago; runs by Bromley, and joins
the river Lea near Bow, where barges enter by
means of a lock called Bow lock. This canal
is about a mile and a quarter in length; and
serves to bring to our capital corn, malt, and
-flour, from the neighbourhood of Hertford, and
several other counties, which put their produc
tions on board the barges at that town. It is
also of great use to convey to the Thames the
produce' of the great distilleries near Bow ;
and also to the internal counties coals, and se
veral articles from the metropolis. This canal
saves the great circuit of passing down to Lea-
mouth, and thence round the Isle of Dogs; a
navigation often impeded by contrary winds
and tides, which frequently fall out so adverse,
as to occasion great delays. Yet this canal
bv no means annihilates the use of the river
Lea to and from its mouth : but barges go
indifferently either way, as convenjency, or
the circumstances above-mentioned, occur.
Besides many barges will enter' the river

60 BILLS OF MORTALITY.
Lea to save the navigation expences of the
New Cut.
Limehouse dock is a little farther to the
south-east, and is much used.
We finished our walk, and dined at a small
house called the Folly, on the water's edge,
almost opposite to the splendid hospital at
Greenwich, where we sat for some hours enjoy-;
ing the delicious view of the river, and the
moving picture of a succession of shipping per
petually passing and repassing.
It is wonderful, that in this great city there
should have been no regular census; but that
we must depend on the account of the number
of inhabitants from the uncertain calculation of
the bills of mortality. I will allow them to be
delivered annually, by the only censors we have,
the company of parish-clerks, with all possible
accuracy, as far as their knowledge extends :
but, as it is admitted that a number of people
find their burials in coemeteries without the
bills, equal nearly to those which are annually
reported to be interred within their jurisdiction,
the uncertainty of the enumeration collected
from them must be allowed. In the last year,
19,697 were buried within the bills: if the
above assertion* is well founded, the sum must
* Mr. Richardson.

BILLS OF MORTALITY. 61
be 39,394. I refer the decision of the numbers
of inhabitants to the skilful in calculation. I
have heard it averred that the present number
is a million. Three ingenious writers have made
the following estimates: Mr. Howlet gives in
his at 800,000; Mr. Wales at €50,000; and
doctor Price at 500,000. Maitland gives the
total, in the time of his publication (1756) to
have been 725,341 *. The increase of London
since his days gives a probability that the enu
meration is not much exaggerated.
Bills of mortality took rise in 1592, in which
began a great pestilence, which continued till
the ISth of December, 1595. During this
period they were kept in order to ascertain the
number of persons who died: but when the
plague ceased, the bills were discontinued.
They were resumed again in 1603. At the
original institution, there were only a hundred
and nine parishes : others were gradually added,
and, by the year 1681, the number was a hun
dred and thirty-two: since that time fourteen
more have been added, so that the whole
amounts to a hundred and forty-six; viz.
* Maitland, ii. 7&H. — This book is dedicated to Slingsby
Bethel, esq. who was lord mayor in that year.

62 RATCLIFF HIGHWAY.
97 within the walls.
16 without the walls.
23 out-parishes in Middlesex and Surry.
10 in the city and liberties of West
minster*.
Among the multitudes who fall victims to
disease, is a melancholy account of the rural
youth, which crowd here in numbers, labour
ing under the delusion of preferment: some
perish soon, without even attaining a service;
and, urged by want, fall under the cognizance
of justice. Others get admission into shops,
or into places, where they experience hard
work, hard wages, hard lodgings, and scanty
food. They soon fall ill, are neglected, or
flung into an hospital when passed all relief,
where they perish. Their native villages want
their innocent labour, and the whole rustic
community, I may say the whole kingdom,
suffers for the indiscreet ambition of these un
happy youths or of their simple parents.
We varied our road on our return, by taking
that of Ratcliff Highway, a broad and very
long street, ending in East Smithfield. On the
* To satisfy the curiosity of those who have not oppor
tunity of seeing a Bill of Mortality, I have printed that of
1788, at the end of tbis book.

RAG-FAIR. 63
north side stands another of the new fifty
churches, St. George's Middlesex ; square
rises out of square, to compose the steeple; its
upper story is incomprehensible, the outside
stuck around with chimney-like columns,
square at the lower parts, above making a.
sudden transition into the round. This church
was began in 1715 ; finished in 1729: and, by
the eccentricity of the style, may fairly be sus
pected to have had Mr. Hawksmoor for its
builder. At the end of this street we found ourselves
in the midst of Bag-fair, in the fullest hour
of business. The articles of commerce by no
means belye the name. There is no expressing
the poverty of the goods: nor yet their cheap
ness. A distinguished merchant, engaged with
a purchaser, observing. me to look on him with
great attention, called out to me, as his cus
tomer was going off with his bargain, to ob
serve that man, For, says he, I have actually
clothed him for fourteen pence.
A little farther on to the east, stood the abbey
of St. Mary of the Graces, called also the Nezv
Abbey, and Eastminster, in opposition to West
minster, in respect to its situation. It was
founded by Edward III. in 1349,. in the new

64 ABBEY OF ST. MARY OF THE GRACES.
church-yard of the Holy Trinity, and filled
With Cistertians. That church-yard was made
by John Corey, clerk, On occasion of the dread
ful pestilence which raged in that reign, so that
there was not room in the church -yards to inter
the dead. Edward Was moved to his piety
by a fright he was seized with in a violent
storm, in his way to France; when he vowed, if
he got safe to shore, he would found a monas
tery to the honour of God, and the Lady of
Grace, if she should grant him the grace of
coming safe on shore*. At the dissolution its
revenues, according to Dugdale, amounted to
5406?. lOd. It was granted to sir Arthur
Darcie, in 1540, who pulled it entirely down.
" In place thereof," says Stow, " is builded
" a large store-house for victual, and con-
" venient ovens are builded for baking of
" bisket to serve hir majesties shippes." The
present victualling- office succeeded the ori
ginal building, and is allotted for the same
purpose. From hence I passed by the Tower, to the
Custom-house, a little to the west of that for
tress. On this spot is the busy concourse of
* Newcourt, i. 465.

THE CUSTOMS AT VARIOUS PERIODS. 65
all nations, who pay their tribute towards the
support of Great Britain. The present build
ing is of brick and stone; before which, ships
of three hundred and fifty tons can lie and dis
charge their cargo. There was one here, built
as early as the year 1385, by John Church
man*, one of the sheriffs of London; but at
that period, and long after, the customs were
collected in different parts of the city, and in a
very irregular manner. About the year 1559
the loss to the revenue was first discovered,
and an act passed to compel people to land,
their goods in such places as were appointed by
the commissioners of the revenue; and this was
the spot fixed on: a custom-house was erected,
which, being destroyed by the great fire, was
re-built by Charles II. In 1718 it underwent
the same fate, and was restored in its present
form. Before the custom-house was established
here, the principal place for receiving the
duties was at Billingsgate. As early as 979,
or the reign of Etheldred, a small vessel was to
pay ad Bilynggesgate one penny halfpenny as a
toll; a greater, bearing sails, one penny; a
keel or hulk (Ceol vel HulcusJ four-pence ; a
* Strype's StoW, ii. book iv. 1 14.
VOL. II. F

66 THE CUSTOMS AT VARIOUS PERIODS.
ship laden with wood, one piece for toll ; and
a boat with fish, one halfpenny ; or a larger,
one penny*. We had even now trade with
France* for its wines; for mention is made of
ships from Rouen, who came here and landed
them, and freed them from toll, i. e. payed their
duties. What they amounted to I cannot
learu. But in 1268 the half year's customs,
fbr foreign merchandize in the city of Lon
don, came only to 75/. 6s. \0d. In 1331, they
amounted -to 8000/. a-year. In 1354, the
duty on imports was only 580/. 6s. 8d. ; on our
exports (wool and felts) 81,624/. Is. Id. Well
may Mr. Anderson observe f the temperance
and sobriety of the age, when we consider the
small quantities of wine and other luxuries
used in these kingdoms.
-> In 1590, the latter end of the glorious reign
of Elizabeth, our customs brought in 50,000/,
a-year. They had'1 at first been farmed at
14,000/. a-year ; afterwards raised to 42,C00/.
and finally to the sum I mention, and still to
the same ^person, sir Thomas Smith.
In 1613, by the peaceful politics of James I.
our imports brought in 48,250/. ; our exports
* Btfompton x Scriptores, i. col. 897- t Dictionary, i. 186.

y /////;' ^-"'X' MW<y<' ^'"''Zd '%'

TRINITY-HOUSE. 67
61,322/. 16s. 7d. the whole of the revenue,
from the customs, amounting this year to
109,572/. 18s. 4rf. in the port of London only.
Our exports from the nut-ports raised 25,471/.
9s. 9d.; the imports 13,030/. 9s. 9d. ; the sum
total was 148,075/. 7s. Sd.
In 1641, just before the beginning pf our
troubles, the customs brought in 500,000/.
a-year; the effect of a long series of peaceful
days. The effects of our civil broils, appeared
strongly in 1666, when they suffered a decrease
of 110,000/. From the year 1671 to, 1688,
they were at a medium 555,752/. In the
year 1709, notwithstanding a fierce war
raged for many years, they were raised to
2,319,320/. For want of materials, I am ob
liged to pass to the annual produce of the cus
toms, ending in April, 1789, which amounted
to 3,711,126/.
In Water-lane, a little to the north-west of
the custom-house, is the Trinity -house ; a
society founded in 1515, at a period in which
the British navy began to assume a system.
The founder was sir Thomas Spert, comptroller
of the navy, apd commander of the great ship
Henry Grace de Dieu. It is a corporation,
consisting of a master, four wardens, eight as?
f2

68 TRINITY-HOUSE.
sistants, and eighteen elder brethren*; selected
from commanders in the navy and the merchants'
service; and now and then a compliment is
payed to one or two of our first nobility. They
may be considered as guardians of our, ships,
military and commercial. Their powers are
very extensive : they examine the mathematical
children of Christ's hospital ; masters of his
majesty's ships ; they appoint pilots for the
river Thames; settle the general rates of pilot
age ; erect light-houses, and sea-marks ; grant
licences to poor seamen, not free of the city, to
row on the Thames ; prevent foreigners from
serving on board our ships without licence;
punish seamen for mutiny and desertion; hear
and determine complaints of officers and men in
the merchants' service, but liable to appeal to
the judge of the court of admiralty; superin
tend the deepening and cleansing of the river
Thames, and have under their jurisdiction the
ballast-office; have powers to buy lands, and
receive donations for charitable uses ; and, in
consequence, relieve annually many thousands
of poor seamen, their widows and orphans.
* The whole corporation are usually called The Thirty-
one Brethren. See a full account in Strype's Stow, ii. book v.
p. 286-7.

SIR JOHN LEAKE. 69
This house is unworthy of the greatness of
its design. In the council-room are some por
traits of eminent men. The most remarkable
is that of sir John Leake, with his lank grey
locks, and a loose night gown, with a mien very
little indicative of his high courage, and active
spirit. He was the greatest commander of his
time, and engaged in most actions of note
during the reigns of king William and queen
Anne. To him was committed the desperate,
but successful attempt of breaking the boom,
previous to the relief of Londonderry. He dis
tinguished himself greatly at the battle of La
Hogue ; assisted at the taking of Gibraltar ;
and afterwards, as commander-in-chief, redu
ced Barcelona; took Carthagena, and brought
Sardinia and Minorca4 to submit to Charles,
rival to Philip for the crown of Spain. " He was
made a lord of the admiralty, but declined the
offer of beina* head of the commission. At the
accession of George I. averse to the new family,
he retired; but with the approving pension of
600/. a-year. He lived privately at Greenwich,
where he died in 1720, and was buried in a
manner suitable to his merits, in the church at
Stepney It is in this house the business of the institu-

70 BILLINGSGATE.
tion is carried on : but the mother-house is at
Deptford, the corporation being named, The
master, wardens, and assistants of the guild or
fraternity of the most glorious and undivided
Trinity, and of St. Clement, in the parish of
Deptford Strond, in the county of Kent*.
After the custom-house, the first place of
note is Billingsgate,- ox, to adapt the spelling
to conjectures of antiquaries, " who go beyond
" the realms of Chaos and old night," Belins-
gate, or the gate of Belinus king of Britain,
fellow-adventurer with Brennus king of the
Gauls, at the sacking of Rome, three hundred
and sixty years before the Christian sera : and
the Beli Mawr, who graces the pedigrees of
numbers of us ancient Britons. For fear of
falling on some inglorious name, I submit to
the etymology; but must confess there does
not appear any record of a gate at this place:
his son Lud was more fortunate, for Ludgate
preserves his memory to every citizen, who
knows the just value of antiquity. Gate, here
signifies only a place where there was a con
course of peoplef; a common quay or'wharf,
where there is a free going in and out to tire
* Strype's Maitland, ii. book v. p. 286.
t Skinner's Etymology.

FISH BROUGHT TO MARKET. 71
same*. This was a small port for the reception
of shipping, and, for a. considerable time, the
most important place for the landing of almost
every article of commerce. It was not till the
reign of king William that it became celebrated
as a fish-market; who, in 1699, by act of par
liament made it a free port for fish, which
might be sold there every day in the week ex
cept Sunday. The object of this has long been
frustrated, and the epicure who goes (as was
a frequent practice) to Billingsgate to eat, fish
in perfection, will now be cruelly disappointed.
I cannot give a list of the fish most accep
table in the Saxon ages; but there is a list left
of those which were brought to market in that
of Edward I. who descended even to regulate
the prices, that his subjects might not be left
to the mercy of the venders. s. d.
The best plaice  0 If
A dozen of best soles . . ......... . 0 3
Best fresh mulvil, i. e. molva, > q „
either cod or ling  3
Best hadock  0 2
Best barkey  0 4
* Edward I; his grant of Botolph's quay.

72 FISH BROUGHT TO MARKET S. d.
Best mullet  0 2
Best dorac, John Doree ?  0 5
Best conger  1 0
Bestturbot  0 6
Best bran, sard, and betule  0 3
Best mackrel, in Lent  0 1
And out of Lent  0 0§
Best gurnard  • 0 I
Best fresh merlings, i. e. mer-> k »
langi, whitings, four for .... J
Best powdered ditto, 12 for  0" 1
Best pickled herrings*, twenty. ... 0 1
Best fresh ditto, before Michael-^ ^ -.
mas, six for  :  V
Ditto, after Michaelmas, twelve* ^ ,
for  >
Best Thames, or Severn lamprey 0 4
Best fresh oysters, a gallon for ... 0 2
A piece of rumb, gross and fat, 1}
suspect holibut, which is usu-> 0 4
ally sold in pieces, at  j
Best sea-hog, i. e. porpesse  6 8
* This shows that the invention of pickling was before the
^fHi^of, William Benkelen, who died in 1597. See Brit,
Zoo]., art. Herring.

IN THE.. TIME OF EDWARD 1. 73
S. d.
Best eels, a strike, or ^ hundred . . 0 2
Best lampreys, in wifiter, the^ ~ ft
hundred  5
But we also imported lampreys
from Nantes: the first which
camein was not sold at less than
Is. 4d. — a mouth after at 8d.
Diito at other times  0 6
These, by their cheapness, must
have been the little lampreys
now used for bait.
Best fresh salmon, from Christ-? r n
> 5 0
mas to Easter, for  5
Ditto, after ditto  3 0
Best smelts, the hundred  0 1
Best roche, in summer  0 1
Best Lucy, or pike, at  6 8
By the very high pric§ of the
pike, it is very probable that
this fish had not yet been intro
duced into our ponds, but was
imported at this period as a
luxury, pickled, or some. way
preserved.
Among these fish, let me observe, that the
conger is, at present, never admitted to any

74 VARIETIES OF FISH.
good table ; and to speak of serving up a por-
pesse whole, or in part, would set your guests
a staring. Yet, such is the difference of taste,
both these fishes were in high esteem. King
Richard's master cooks have left a most excel
lent receipt for Congur in Sawse* ; and as for
the other great fish; it was either eaten roasted,
or salted, or in broth, or furmente with por-
pessef. The learned doctor Caius even tells
us the proper sauce, and says, that it should be
the same with that for a dolphin J; another
dish unheard of in our days. From the great
price the Lucy or pike bore§, one may reason
able suspect that it was at that time an exotic
fish, and brought over at a vast expence.
1 confess myself unacquainted with the words
Barkey, Bran, and Betule: Sard Was' proba
bly the Sardine or Pilchard: I am equally at
a loss about Croplings, and Rumb: but the
pickled Balenes were certainly the Pholas
Dactylus of Linnse-us, 1110; the Balanus of
Rondeletius de Testaccis, 28; and the Dattili
of the modern Italians., which are to this day
eaten, and even pickled.
To this list of sea- fish, which were admitted
* Forme of Cury, 52. f Ibid. 53, 39, 56.
J Caii opuscula, 11 6. § British Zoology, iii. 320.

LONDON-BRIDGE. 75
in those days to table, may be added the stur
geon, and ling ; and there is twice mention, in
archbishop Nevill's great feast, of a certain
fish, both roasted and baked, unknown at pre
sent, called a thirle-poole.
The seal was also reckoned a fish, and, with
the sturgeon and porpess, were the only fresh
fish which, by the 33d of Henry VIII. were
permitted to be bought of any stranger at sea,
between England and France, Flanders, and
Zealand. A little to the west is London-bridge. The
year of its foundation is not settled. The first
mention of it is in the laws of Ethelred, which
fix the tolls of vessels coming to Billingsgate,
or ad Pontem. It could not be prior to the
year 993, when Unlaf, the Dane, sailed up the
river as high as Stains*, without interruption:
nor yet after the year 1016, in which Ethelred
died : and the great Canute, king of Denmark,
when he besieged London, was impeded in his
operations by a bridge, which even at that time
must have been strongly fortified, to oblige him
to have recourse to the following vast expe
dient :— He caused a prodigious ditch to be cut
Saxon Chron. 148.

76 LONDON-BRIDGE.
on the south side of the Thames, at Rother-
hithe, or Redriff, a little to the east of South-
wark, which he continued at a distance from
the south end of the bridge, in form of a semi
circle, opening into the western part of the
river. Through this he drew his ships, and
effectually completed the blockade of the
city*. But the valour of the citizens obliged
him to raise the siege. Evidences of this great
work were found in the place called The Dock
Head, at Redriff, where it began. Fascines of
hazels, and other brushwood, fastened down
with stakes, were discovered in digging that
dock, in 1694; and in other parts of its course
have been met with, in ditching, large oaken
planks, and numbers of pilesf.
The bridge originated from the public spirit
of the college of priests of St. MaryOverie.
Before, there had been a ferry, left by her
parents to their only daughter Mary; who, out
of the profits, founded a nunnery, and endowed
it with the profits of the boat. This house was
afterwards converted into the college of priests,
who not only built the bridge, but kept it in
repair: but it must be understood that the first
* Sax. Chron. 148. / f Maitland, i. 35.

LONDON-BRIDGE. 77
bridge was of timber, the materials at hand,
and most probably rudely put together. This
account is given by Stow, from the report of
Bartholomew Linsted, alias Fowle, last prior
of St. Marie Overie; but was doubted, because
the work has been supposed to be too great,
and too disinterested for a college of priests,
who were to give, up the certain profits of the
ferry, for those resulting precariously from an
expensive undertaking. Even the existence of
a religious house before the Conquest has been
suspected: but the Domesday book puts that
out of doubt, by informing us, Ipse episcopus
habet unum monasterium in Sudwerche. Num
bers of useful, as well as pious works, in early
days, originated from the instigation of the
churchmen, who often had the honour of being
called the founders, when the work itself was
performed by their devotees. Neither is it
to be supposed that they could keep it in re
pair: the same zeal which impelled people to
contribute to the building, operated in the ves-
titureof land for its support; and this appears
to have been done by several instances ; yet the
endowments were so small, that a supplementary
tax was often raised.
In 1136, the bridge was burnt down. By the

78 LONDON-BRIDGE.
year 1163 it grew so ruinous as to occasion its
being re-built, underthe care of onePeter, curate
Of St. Mary Colechurch, a celebrated architect
of those times. It was soon after determined
tftbuild' a bridge of stone, and about the year
1176, the same Peter was employed again. It
proved a work of thirty-three years : the archi
tect died four years before it was completed ;
and another clergyman, Isenbert, master of the
schools of Xainctes, was recommended to the
citizens by king John, for the honor of finish
ing it ; but they rejected their prince's choice,
and committed the work to three merchants of
London, who completed it in 1209. Peter was
buried in a beautiful chapel, probabty of his
own construction, dedicated to St. Thomas,
Which stood on the east side, in the ninth pier
from the north end, and had an entrance from
the river, as well as the street, by a winding
staircase. It was beautifully paved with black
and white marble, and in the middle was a
tomb, supposed to contain the remains of Peter
the architect.
This great work was founded on enormous
piles, driven as closely as possible together : on
their tops were laid long planks ten inches thick
strongly bolted ; and on them were placed the

HABITATIONS ON LONDON-BRIDGE. 79
base of the pier, the lowermost stones of which
were bedded in pitch, to prevent the water from
damaging the work : round all were the piles
which are > called the sterlings, designed for
the preservation of the foundation piles. These
contracted the space between the piers so
greatly, as to occasion, at the retreat of every
tide, a fall of five feet, or a number of tempo
rary cataracts, which, since the foundation of
the bridge, have occasioned the loss of many
thousand lives. The water, at spring tides,
rises to the height of about eighteen feet. The
length of this vast work is nine hnndred and
fifteen feet, the exact breadth of the river.
The number of arches was nineteen, of unequal
dimensions, and greatly deformed by the ster
lings, and the houses on each side, which over
hung, and leaned in a most terrific manner. In
most places they hid the arches, and nothing
appeared but the rude piers. I well remember
the street on London-bridge, narrow, darksome,
and dangerous to passengers from the multi
tude of carriages : frequent arches of strong
timber crossed the street, from, the tops of the
houses, to keep them together, and from, falling
into the river. Nothing but use could preserve
the rest of the inmates, who soon grew deaf to

80 DRAW-BRIDGE AND TOWER.
the noise of the falling waters, the clamors of
watermen, or the frequent shrieks of drowning
wretches. Most of the houses were tenanted
by pin or needle makers, and oeconomical ladies
were wont to drive from the St. James's end of
the town, to make cheap purchases. Fuller
tells us, that Spanish needles were made here
first in Cheapside, by a negro, who died with
out communicating the art. Elias Crowse, a
German, in the reign of Elizabeth, was more
liberal, and first taught the method to the
English. Fuller's definition of a needle is ex
cellent, quasi ne idle.
In the bridges-were three openings on each
side, with ballustrades, to give passengers a
sight of the water and shipping. In one part
had been a draw-bridge, useful either by way
of defence, or for the admission of ships into the
upper part of the river. This was protected
by a strong tower. It served to repulse Fau-
conbridge the Bastard, in his general assault
on the city in 147|, with a set of banditti, un
der pretenceof rescuing the unfortunate Henry,
then confined in the Tower. Sixty houses were
burnt on the occasion*. It also served to
* Holinshed, 630.

FIRE ON LONDON-BRIDGE. 81
check, and in the end annihilate, the ill-con
ducted insurrection of sir Thomas Wyat, in the
reign of queen Mary. The top of this tower,
in the sad and turbulent days of this kingdom,
used to be the shambles of human flesh, and
covered with heads or quarters of unfortunate
partizans. Even so late as the year 1598,
Hentzner, the German traveller, with German
accuracy, counted on it above thirty heads*.
The old map of the city, in 1597, represents
them in a most horrible cluster.
At the south end of the bridge one Peter
Corbis, a Dutchman f, in the year 1582, in
vented an engine to force the water of the
Thames into leaden pipes, to supply many of
the adjacent parts of the city. It has, since
that time, been so greatly improved, by the
skill of the English mechanics, as to become a
most curious as well as useful piece of ma
chinery, and to be extremely worthy the at
tention of that branch of science.
I must not quit the bridge, without noticing
an unparalleled calamity which happened on
it within four years after it was finished. A
fire began on it at the Soiithwark end ; multi-
* Fugitive Pieces, vol. ii. 243.
+ Stow's Survaie.— London and its Euvirons,' iv. 146.
VOL. II. G

82 A BRAVE ACTION  REWARDED.
tudes of people rushed out of London to extin
guish it ; while they were engaged in this cha
ritable design, the fire seized on the opposite
end, and hemmed in the crowd. Above three
thousand persons perished in the flames, or
were drowned by overloading the vessels which
we're hardy enough to attempt their relief."
The gallant action of Edmund Osborne, an
cestor to the duke of Leeds, when he was ap
prentice to sir William Hewet, cloth-worker,
must by no means be forgotten. About the
year 1536, when his master lived in one of
these tremendous houses, a servant-maid was
playing with his only daughter in her arms, in
a window over the water, and accidentally
dropt the child. Young Osborne, who was
witness to the misfortune, instantly sprung into
the river, and, beyond all expectation, brought
her safe to the terrified family. Several persons
of rank payed their addresses to.her, when she
was -marriageable; among others, the earl of
Shrewsbury: but sir William gratefully de
cided in favour of Osborne ; Osborne, says he,
saved her, and Osborne shall enjoy her*. In
her right he possessed a great fortune. He be-
* Stow, ii. book v. 133— and Collins's Peerage, i. 235.

MR. temple's SUICIDE. 83
came sheriff of London in 1575; and lord mayor
in 1582. I have seen the picture of his master
at Kiveton, the seat of the duke of Leeds, a
half length on board; his dress is a black gown
furred, a red vest and sleeve, a gold chain, and
a bonnet. He served the office of lord mayor
in 1559; and died in 1566. Strype mistakes,
when he says, that sir William died in 1599,
and was buried in the cathedral of St. Paul :
another person of the same name lies there,
under the handsome monument* ascribed by
our old historian to the former.
Of the multitudes who have perished in this
rapid descent, the names of no one, of any note,
has reached my knowledge, except that of Mr.
Temple, only son of the great sir William Tem
ple. His end was dreadful, as it was preme
ditated. He had, a week, before, accepted,
from king William, the office of secretary of
war. Oq the 14th of April, 1689, he hired
a boat on the Thames, and directed the water
man to shoot the bridge; at that instant he
flung himself into the torrent, and, having
filled his pockets with stones, to destroy all
chance of safety f, instantly sunk. In the boat
* Engraven in Dugdale's History of St. Paul's, 66.
f Reresby's Memoirs, 346.
g2

84 falstaff's rendezvous:
was found a note to this effect: '" My folly, in
(C undertaking what I could not perform,
" whereby some misfortunes have befallen the
" king's service, is the cause of my putting
" myself to this sudden end. I wish him suc-
" cess in all his undertakings, and a better ser-
" vant." I hope his father's reflection, oh
the occasion, was a parental apology, not his
real sentiments : " that a wise man might dis-
" pose of himself, and make his life as short as
" he pleased." How strongly did' this great
man militate against the precepts of Christi
anity,' and the solid arguments of a most wise
and pious heathen* !
Very near to the northern end of the bridge,
is the church of Si. Magnus. It is probably
a church of great antiquity ; yet the first men
tion is in 1433. It was consumed in the great
fire, but within ten years was restored in the
present handsome style. The bottom of the
tower is open, so as to admit a most conveni
ent thoroughfare to the numerous passengers.
A little higher up, on the left hand, is East-
cheap, immortalized by Shakespeare, as the
place of rendezvous of sir John Falstaffand his
* Cicero, in his Somniuin Scipionis.

boar's head, in eastcheap. 85
merry companions. Here stood the Boar's
Head tavern; the site is now covered with
modern houses, but in the front of one is still
preserved the memory of the sign, the Boar's
Head, cut in stone. Notwithstanding the house
is gone, we shall laugh at the humour of the
jovial knight, his Hostess, Bardolph, and Pistol,
as long as the descriptive pages of our great
dramatic writer exist in our entertained ima
gination. 1 must mention, that in the wall of
another house is a Swan, cut in stone ; proba
bly, in old times, the sign of another tavern.
The renowned Henry, prince of Wales, was
not the only one of the royal family, whose
youthful blood led them into frolic and riot.
His brothers John, and Thomas, with their at
tendants, between two and three o'clock, after
midnight, raised such an uproar, that the mayor
and sheriffs thought proper to interfere. This
the princes took as an insult on their dignity.
The magistrates were convened by the cele
brated chief justice Gascoigne ; they stood on
their defence, and were most honourably dis
missed, it being proved that they did no more
than their duty, towards the maintenance of
the peace*.
* Stow's Survaie, 404,

86 FIRE OF LONDON.
This street was famous, in old times, for its
convivial doings: " The cookes cried hot ribbes
" of beef rosted, pies well baked, and other
" victuals*: there was clattering of pewter,
" pots, harpe, pipe, and sawtrie." Evident
marks of the jollity of this quarter.
In Pudding-lane^ at a very small distanc#
from this church, begun the ever-memorable
calamity by fire, on the 2d of September, 1666.
In four days? it consumed every part of this
noble city within the walls, except what lies
within a line drawn from the north part of
Coleman-street, and just to the south-west of
Leadenhall, and from thence to the Tower.
Its ravages were also extended without the
walls, to the west, as far as Fetter-lane, and the
Temple, As it begun in Puddihg-lnne, it
ended in Smithfield at Pye-corner; which
might occasion the inscription with the figure
of a boy, on a house in the last place, now al
most erased, which attributes the fire of Lon
don to the sin of gluttony. I leave the reader
to consult the second volume of the City Re
membrancer, for the melancholy detail.
Sir Christopher Wren was coeval to this
* Stow's Survaie,, 404.

THE MONUMENT. 87
misfortune. The plans his great genius offered
to the public for re-building the city, with
genuine taste, and a splendour worthy of ancient
Rome, were unfortunately rejected. Perhaps
the times are not greatly to be blamed; there
were a thousand difficulties in respect to the
o. division of property ; there was, in a vast com
mercial city, such as London, a hurry to resume
their former occupations, and a prejudice for
ancient sites. It was difficult to persuade
people to relinquish, for a mere work of taste, a
spot productive of thousands, to them or their
predecessors. These things considered, it is
not to be wondered that we are left to admire,
on paper only, the vast designs of our great
architect. But still he was the restorer pf
several of our public buildings: many of our
temples arose with improved beauty from his
plans; and several other buildings, which we
have had, or shall have occasion of mentioning.
That astonishing proof of his genius, the
Monument, is placed on the side of Fish-street,
very near to the spot where the calamity began ;
Where London's column, pointing at the skies,
Like a tall bully lifts its head and lyes.
It is a Poric column, two hundred and two feet

88 THE MONUMENT.
high, fluted, and finished with a trifling urn
with flames, instead of a noble statue of the
reigning king, as the great architect proposed.
On the cap of the pedestal, at the angles, are
four dragons, the supporters of the city arms:
these cost two hundred pounds, and were the
work of Edward Pierce, jun. On the west
side of the pedestal is a bas relief, cut by
Gabriel Gibber, in admirable taste. It re
presents emblematically this sad catastrophe:
Charles is seen, surrounded with Liberty,
Genius, and Science, giving directions for the
restoring of the city. Here the sculptor found,
luckily, one example to compliment the atten
tion of the thoughtless monarch towards the
good of his subjects; for, during the horrors of
the conflagration, and after it was subdued,
his endeavours to stop the evil, and to remedy
the effect, were truly indefatigable. The king
was seriously affected by this calamity, and
many emotions of piety and devotion were ex
cited in him. There was, for a short time,
great reason to expect the fruits of this his
brief return to Heaven: but they were quickly
blasted by the uncommon wickedness of the
people about him, who, by every prophane
witticism on the recent calamity, and even by

BENEFIT RESULTING FROM THE FIRE. 89
suggesting that it was the blessing of God, to
humble this rebellious city, and to prepare it for
his yoke, soon removed every good thought
from the royal breast*. This noble column was
begun in 1671; and finished in 1677, at the
expence of 14,500/. A melancholy period of
party rage! and the injurious inscription on
the Monument, written by doctor Thomas Gale,
afterwards dean of York, was permitted.
The damage sustained by the cruel element,
was computed at ten millions seven hundred
and sixteen thousand pounds. But Providence,
mingling mercy with justice, suffered only the
loss of eight lives.
Great as this calamity was, yet it proved
the providential cause of putting a stop to
one of a far more tremendous nature. The
plague, which, for a series of ages, had, with
very short intervals, visited our capital in
its most dreadful forms, never appeared there
again after the re-building of the city in a more
open and airy manner, which removed several
nuisances; which, if not the actual origin of a
plague, was assuredly one great pabulum, when
it had seized our streets. The last was in the
* Continuation of Lord Clajendon's Life, 675.

90 CALAMITY FROM THE PLAGUE.
year 1665, when in about six months, by the
smallest computation, made by the earl of
Clarendon (who thought it much under-rated)
a hundred and threescore thousand people fell
by the destroying angel: his lordship instances
a mistake in one of the weekly bills, which was
reported with only six thousand deaths: yet the
amount of that week was fourteen thousand *.
Notwithstanding this, doctor Hodges, in his
book De Peste, collects from the bills of mor
tality, that the sum of the dead, who fell by the
pestilence, was not more than sixty-eight thou
sand five hundred and ninety-six.
Marseilles' good bishop must not engross
every tongue. We had in our capital, during
this sad calamity, heroes that might vie in piety
with that worthy prelate. Sir John Laurence,
lord mayor in the year of the plague, showed
equal intrepidity, humanity, and charity. Fear
of the disease seemed to have steeled the hearts
of men ; for, as soon as its nature was certainly
known, above forty thousand servants were
turned into the streets to perish : no one would
receive them into their houses; and the villa
gers near London drove them away with pitch-
* Continuation of the Life of Edward Earl of Clarendon,
octavo ed, yol. in. p. 620.

DISTRESS FROM THE PLAGUE RELIEVED. 91
forks, and fire-arms *. Sir John Laurence
took these wretched fugitives under his pro
tection, relieved them with his own fortune as
long as that lasted, and then by subscriptions
which he solicited from all parts. The king
contributed a thousand pounds a week: in the
whole, the vast sum of a hundred thousand
pounds was weekly distributed f.
The heroism of George Monk, duke of Albe
marle, and William earl Craven, must not pass
unnoticed; their virtue forbad them to absent
themselves in this dire season. They, in con
junction with the civil magistrate; took every
means to alleviate the calamity, and to prevent
its progress: here their valour was put to the
test; and, amidst the horrors of death, which
no wisdom could avert, they behaved with the
same coolness as when they were supported by
the glory of victory, amidst the thunder of ar
tillery, and flights of bullets. In archbishop
Sheldon was united the firm courage of the
former characters, with the piety of a church
man. He continued at Lambeth during the
whole contagion; preserving, by his charities,
multitudes who were sinking under the pressure
* Journal of the Plague-year.
f London's Remembrancer, 418.

92 HOUSE OF THE BLACK PRINCE.
of disease and want ; and, by his pathetic letters
to his suffragans, procured from their dioceses
benevolences to a vast amount.
Almost opposite to the place where the
Monument now stands, was a large stone house,
the habitation of Edward, our famous black
-prince, the flower of English chivalry. In
Stow's time it was altered to a common hosterie
or inn, having a black bell for the sign*.
At a small distance, to the west of the bridge,
is Fishmongers'-hall, a very handsome build
ing, erected since the destruction of the old
hall by the great fire. It faces the river, and
commands a fine view of the- water and the
bridge. In the court-room are several pictures
of^ the various sorts of vendible fishes. A
printed catalogue of the species and varieties,
with their seasons, was presented to me when I
visited the place. At this and every other hall
I met with the utmost urbanity. As an hum
ble historian of the fishy tribe, I trust that
I am not to be condemned to the Pygmalion
prospect of these delicacies; but, on my next
visit to town, may be honoured with a card, in
order to form a practical judgment of what
hitherto have only feasted my eyes ! ! !
* Survaie, 403.

FISHMONGERS'-HALL. 93
In the great hall is a wooden statue of the
brave sir William Walworth, armed with his
rebel-killing dagger; here is also another of
St. Peter: the former was of this company; the
latter with great propriety is adopted as its
titular saint. The arms of the benefactors are
beautifully expressed in painted glas? on the
several windows.
This is one of the twelve great companies;
it originally was divided into stock- mongers,
and saltfish-mongers ; the first were incor
porated in 1433; a period in which we had very
considerable trade with Iceland in that very
article* : the last not till 1509, but were united
in 1536. There was once a desperate feud
between this company and the goldsmiths,
about precedency. The parties grew so violent,
that the mayor and aldermen, by their own
authority, were* obliged to pronounce them
rebels, and even banifiaii, or banished the city,
such of them who persisted in their ' con
tumacy •(•. I fear that, in old times, the gold
smiths were a pugnacious society ; for I read,
in 1269, of a desperate battle between them and
the taylors. This company pays 800/. a-year
to charitable uses.
* See Arct. Zool. Iutrod. f Stow, ii. book v. 184.

94 POULT.NEV-INN.
The next place I take notice of, to the west
of this hall, was Cold Harbour, mentioned as a
tenement as early as the reign of Edward II.
A. magnificent house was, in after-times, built
on the spot, which, from its occupant, sir John
Poultney, four times mayor of London, was, in
the style of the times, called Poultney-inn:
for the town habitations of most of the great
men were called inns. Warwick-inn was the
palace of the great king-maker, and many
others had the same addition. In feudal days
the town had no pleasures to attract the great;
they seldom came there but to support a cause
(as now and then is the case with a modern
senator), to make or unmake a king, or lay the
foundation of civil broils. In 1397, it was the
inn of John Holland, duke of Exeter, and earl
of Huntingdon, who here gave a dinner, and
doubtlessly a very magnificent one, to his half-
brother Richard II. Next year it became the
inn of Edmund of Langley, earl of Cambridge,
but still retained the addition of Poultney. In
1410, Henry IV. granted this house to his son
Henry prince of Wales, by the title of quod-
dam hospitium sive placeam ( vocatum le Colde-
herbergh) for the term of his life. And in the
same year (to stock his cellars) gives him an

STEEL-YARD. 95
order on the collector of the customs for twenty
casks and one pipe of red wine of Gascogny,
and that without the payment of any duty. In
1472, Henry Holland, duke of Exeter, lodged
in it. In 1485, Richard III. granted it to
Garter king of arms, and his brother heralds.
In the time of Henry VIII. it became the
lodgings of Tonstal, bishop of Durham. On
his deposal it was granted to the earl of Shrews
bury, by Edward VI. and changed its name to
that of Shrewsbury-house.
To the west of this place was the Steel-yard,
a most noted quay for the landing of wheat,
rye, and other grain : cables, masts, tar, flax,
hemp, linen cloth, wainscot, wax, steel, and
other merchandize, imported by the Easter-*
lings, or Germans. Here was the Guildhalda
Teutonicorum, or Guildhall of those people.
They were our masters in the art of commerce,
and settled here even before the eleventh cen*
tury. For we find them here in the year 979,
at least in the time of king Ethelred : for the
emperor's men, i. e. the Germans of the Steel
yard, coming with their ships, were accounted
worthy of good laws. They were not to fore
stall the market from the burghers of London ;
and to pay toll, at Christmas, two grey cloths,

96 STEEL-YARD;
and, one brown one, with ten pounds of pepper,
five pair of. gloves, two vessels of vinegar ; and
as many at Easter. The name of this wharf
is not taken from steel the metal, which was
only a single article, but from Stael-h'ojf,
contracted from Stapel-hoff, or the general
house of Hrade of the German nation. The
powerful league of the Hanse, Towns, and the
profits we made of their trade (fur they were
a long season the great importers of this king
dom) procured, for them great privileges.
They had an alderman of London for their
judge, in ca.se of disputes; and. they were to be
free from all subsidies to the king, or his heirs;
saving, says the king, to us and our heirs, our
ancient prizes, prists juribusque consuetudini-
bus costumisque*. In. return for these distin
guishing favours, they were to. keep in repair
the gate called Bishopsgate. In 1282, they
were called on to perform their duty, the gate
being at that time in a ruinous state; they re
fused; but being compelled by law, Gerard
Marbod, their alderman, advanced the neces
sary sum. In 1479, it was even re-built in a
most magnificent manner, by the merchants of
* Ilymer, 4Q8.

THE STEEL-YARD. 97
the Steel-yard. As they decreased in strength,
and we grew more powerful and more politic,
we began to abridge their privileges. We
found that this potent company, by their weight,
interfered with the interest of the natives, and
damped their spirit of trade. After several
revocations and renewals of the charter, the
house, in 1597, was shut .up, by our wise and
patriotic queen, and the German inhabitants
expelled the kingdom.
At this time it is the great repository of the
imported iron, which furnishes our metropolis
with that necessary material. The quantity of
bars, that fill the yards and warehouses of this
quarter, strike with astonishment the most in.-
different beholder. Next to the water-side are
twoeagles, with imperial crowns round their
necks, placed on two columns.
In the hall of this company were the two
famous pictures; painted in distemper by Hol
bein, representing the triumphs of Riches and
Poverty, They were lost, being supposed to
have been carried into Flanders, on the de
struction of the company, and from thence into
France. I am to learn where they are at pre
sent, unless in the cabinet of M. Fleischman,
at Hesse- Darmstadt. The celebrated Christian
VOL. II. H

98 THE STEEL-YARD.
a Mechel, of Basil, has lately published two
engravings of these pictures, either from the
originals, or the drawings by Zucchero ; for
Frid. Zucchero, 1571, is at one corner of each
print. Drawings of these pictures were found
in England, by Vertue, ascribed to Holbein ;
and the verses over them to sir Thomas More*.
It appears that Zucchero copied them at the
Steel-yard f, so probably those copies, in pro
cess of time, might have fallen into the hands
of M. Flcischman. ¦- ,.
In the triumph of Riches, Plutus is represented
in a golden car, and Fortune sitting before him
flinging money into the laps of people, holding
up their garments to receive her favors : Ven-
tidius is wrote under one ; Gadareus under
another ; and Themistocles under a man kneel
ing beside the car: Croesus, Midas, and, Tan
talus follow ; Narcissus holds the horse of the
first : over their heads, - in the clouds, is Ne
mesis. There are various allegorical figures,
I shall not attempt to explain, -Bythe sides of
the horses walk dropsical) and other diseased
figures, the too frequent attendants -of inches.
Poverty appears in another car, mean and
* Mr. Walpole's Anecdotes, i. 83.
t The same, p. 83, 142.

THE ERBER. 99
shattered, half naked, squalid, and meagre.
-Behind her sits Misfortune; before her Me
mory, Experience, Industry, and Hope. The
car is dVawn by a pair of oxen, and a pair of
asses ; Diligence drives the ass ; and Solicitude,
with a face of care, goads the ox. By the sides
of the car walks Labor, represented by lusty
Workmen With their tools, with cheerful looks;
and behind them Misery, and Beggary, in
ragged weeds, and with countenances replete
with wretchedness and discontent.
Not remote from hence, formerly stood the
Erber, a vast house Or palace. Edward III.
for it is not traced higher, granted 'it to oiie of
the noble family of the Scroopes ;ufrdm ^thern
it fell to the Nevills. Richard, the great earl
of Warwick, possessed it, and lodged here his
fattier, the earl of Salisbur}', with five hundred
TWen, in the famous congress of barons, in the
year 1458^ in which Henry VI. may be said to
have been virtually deposed. It often changed
masters: Ridiard III. ^repaired it, in whose
time it was called the King's Palace. ^It Was
rebuilt by sir Thomas Pullison, mayor, in 1584;
and afterwards dignified by being the residence
of our illustrious navigator sir Francis Drake.
Beyond the Steel-yards is Dowgate, now a
h2

100 DOWGATE. WAL-BROOK.
place of little note. Here stood one of the
Roman gates, through which was the way for
passengers, who took boat at the trajectus, or
ferry, into the continuation of the military way
towards Dover. The Britons are supposed to
have given it the name of Dwr or Dwy, water;
and the Saxons added tjie word gate, which
signifies way. It became a noted wharf, and
was called the port of Dowrigate. In the time
of Henry III. and Edward III. customs were
to be paid by ships resting there, in the same
manner as if they rode at Queenhithe.
Near Dowgate runs concealed into the
Thames the ancient Wat-brook, or river of
Wells, mentioned in a charter of the Conqueror
to the college of St. Martin le Grand. It rises
to the north of Moorfields, and passed through
London Wall, between Bishopsgate and Moor-
gate, and ran through the city; for a long
,tjune it was quite exposed, and had over it se
veral bridges, which were maintained by the
prior? of certain .religious houses, and others.
Between ,two and three centuries ago it was
.vaulted over with brick*; the top paved, and
formed into a street; and, for a long time past,
known only by name.
* Stow's Survaie, l6.

THREE CRANES WHARF. 101
The Three Cranes, in the Vintry, was the
next wharf, which, in old times, by royal order,
was allotted for the landing of wines, as; the
name! imports. The cranes were the three ma
chines used for the landing of the wines, such
as we use to this day. In the adjacent lane
was the Painted Tavern, famous as early as
tjhe time of Richard II. In this neighbourhood
w^as tsl|e great house called the Vintrie, with
vast wine-vaults beneath. Here, in 1314, re-
sided sir John Gisors, lord mayor, and con-
stable of. ,the Tow,er. But the memorable
feasting of another owner, sir Henry Picard,
vintner, lord mayor in 1356, must hot be for
gotten,, who, " in one day, did sumptuously
" feast Edward king q£ England, John king
" pf, France, the king of Cipres (then arrived
", in England ), David king of Scots, Edward
.." prince, of Wales, with many noblemen, and
" other : andiafter7 the sayd Henry Picard
" kept his jjjall against ail commers whosoeuer,
" that were willing to play at dice and hazai'd.
" In like manner the lady jMargaret, his wife,
" did also keepe her chamber to the same in-
.,.ff-Jtent,, ..The king of Cipres, playing with
" Henry Picard, in his hall, did Wihne of him
'f fifty markes ; but Henry, beeing very skilful

102 VINTNERS'-HALL.
" in that art, altering his hand, did after winne
" of the same king the same fifty markes, and
"• fifty markes more ; which when the same
"¦ king began to take in ill part, although hee
" dissembled the same, Henry said unto him,
" my lord and king, be not agreeued, I court
" not your gold, but your play, for I have not
" bidd you hither that 1 might grieue, but that
'f amongst other things I might your play ;
" and gave him his money againe, plentifully
iC bestowing of his owne amongst the retinue:
" besides, he gave many rich gifts to the king,
" and other nobles and knights, which dined
" with him, to the great glory of the citizens
" of London in those days*."
Vintners' -Hall faces Thames-street. It is
distinguished by the figure of Bacchus striding
his tun, placed on the columns of the gate. In
the great hall is a good picture of St. Martin,
on a white horse, dividing his cloak with our
Saviour, who appeared to him in the year 337,
in the character of a beggar.
Hie Cheisto chlamydem Martinus dimidiavit ;
lit faciamus idem nobis exemplificavit.
There is, besides, a statue of that saint in the
same room ; and another picture of him above
f Stow's Annals, 263.

ANCIENT PRICES OF WINE. 103
stairs. Why this *aint was selected as patrort
of the company I know not, except they ima
gined that the saint, actuated by good wine,
had been inspired With good thoughts; which,
according to the argument of James How-el,
producing good works, brought a man to Hea
ven. And, to show the- moral in a contrary
effect, here is a picture of Lot and his inces
tuous daughters, exemplifying the danger of
the abuse of the best things. -
This hall was built on ground given by sir
John Stodie, vintner, lord mayor in 1357. It
was called the manour of the Vintre. The
vintners, or vintonners, were incorporated' in
the reign of Edward III. •-¦> They were origi
nally divided into Vinctariiyet Tabernarii ;
vintners who imported the wine, and taverners
who kept. taverns, and- retailed it for the former.
The co'mpany flourished so much, that, ' from
its institution tiM^the year 1711, it produced
not fewer than' fourteen lord mayors, many of
which were the keepers of taverns. ",&. Yet, in
the time of Edward III. the GasGoigne wines
were not sold at the rate of above 4rf. a gallon ;
nor the Rhenish above 6d. In 1379, red wine
was Ad. a gallon ; and a little after, the price
of a tun 4/. As late, as the year J 552, the

104 REGULATIONS RESPECTING WINE.
Guienne and Gascoigne wines were sold at 8d.
a gallon : and no wines were to exceed the
price of I2d. To restrain luxury, it was at
the same time enacted, that no person;, except
those who could expend 100 marks, annually, or
was1 wrorth 1000 marks, or was, the son of a
duke, marquis, earl, viscount, or baron ;of 'the
realm, should keep jil his jijjouse any vessel of
wine, for his family use, e^G0edin,g ten gallons,
under penalty off ion pounds.
¦ Our great wine trade. was at fi.rst with Bour-
deaux,*aiid the neighbouring provinces; it com
menced as early , as w tfie. Conquest, perhaps
sooner*. But it became very considerable in
the reign of Henry II. by reasOnof his marriage
with4 Elianor, daugh^of the duke of Aqui-
taine^ our conquest of that, ^and other great
wine-tiro vinces of France, ^increased the trade
to a high degree, and- made. great fortunes
among the adventurers of this <5ompany. In
after-time's, when sweet wines, came into fashion,;
w.chaa. considerable , intercourse with the Ca
nary islands.
I 'must not 'be silent about the celebrated sir
Richard Whittington, three times lord mayor
* Cambden, i. 672.

WmBH&?JM

sir Richard whittington. 105
of London, 1397, 1406, and 1419. I shall
leave the history of his cat to the friend of my
younger days, Punch, and his dramatical troop.
But will Dot omit saying, that his good fortune
was not' without "parallel, for it is recorded,
ff how Alphbnso, a Portuguese, being wrecked
" on the cdast'of Guinney, and being presented
"by the k'rngiliereof with his weight. in gold
' c !fo¥ a ^cat, Wfeir^Enei'rl'mtice!,''an^ an oynt-
" ment to kill their flies, ' Vhich he improved,
" within-' fiVe years, to 6TO0/. on the place,,
" and returning to -Portugal, after 15 years
" traffick, becomffig1 trie third man hi ; the king-
Our n5«anificeW citizen fduriqod, near, this
place; -WHittnigtori^ college;, in the churcli of
St; Michael Royal, re-tluiit ;by hirh, and 'finished,
by hiaoxecutbirs in V424. !Tne college was de-
dicated to fhe Holy 'Ghost, and the Virgin,
Mary, and had iii'it an" establishment of 1 a
master and four fellow's" clerks, choristers, &c;
and near it ah alifls-ho'use for thirteen poor peo
ple. The college was suppressed at the Re
formation, but the armt-nbuses still ex|stf.
This great manias thrice buried: once by
¦* A Description of Guinea, 4to. 1665, p. 87.
t Tanner's Monastfcon.

106 TOWER RO.YAL.
his executors, under a magnificent monument,
in- the church- which he had built; bu,tby the
sacrilege of Thomas Mountein, rector, in the
reign of Edward VI. who expected great riches
in his tomb, it was broke open, and the body
spoiled of its leaden sheet, and then com
mitted again to its place *. In the next reign
the body was again taken up, to renew a de
cent covering, and deposited the third time.
His epitaph began thus :
Ut fragrans nardus, fama fuit iste Ricardus,
Albificans villain qui juste rexerat illam,
EIos mercatorum, fundatbr Presbyterorum, &c +.
. !The Tower Royal, which stood in a street
of the same name, a little beyond this church.,
must not pass unnoticed. It was supposed to
ha,ve been founded, by Henry L; and, according
to Stow, it was tl\e residence of king Stephen;.,
Whether it was destroyed by any accident does
not appear: but in the reign of Edw.ard. I. it
was no more than a simple tenement, held by
one Simon Beawmes. In that of Edward III
it acquired the title, of Royal, and the Inn
* Stow's SiirVaie, 44'3;
t See Stow, i. book iii. p. 5.— Albificans, alluding to his
name.

TOWER ROYAL.' - 107
Royal, as having been the residence of the king:*
under that name he bestowed it on the college
of St. Stephen, Westminster; but it reverted to
the crown, and in the time of Richard -II. was
called the Queen's Wardrobe*. It must have
been a place of great strength ; for, when the
rebels, under Wat Tyler, had made themselves
masters of the Tower, and forced from thence
the archbishop of Canterbury, and every other
victim to their barbarity; this place remained
secure. Hither the princess Joan, the royal
mother, retired during the time the rebels were
committing every exoess in all parts of the
town; and here the youthful monarch found
her, after he had, by his wonderful calmness
and prudence, put an end to this pestilential
insurrection f.
In this tower Richard, in 1386, lodged, when
his royal guest Leon III. king of Armenia, or,
as HolinshedJ calls him, Lyon king of Armony
(Armenia), who had been expelled his king
dom by the Turks, took refuge in England.
Richard treated him with the utmost munifi
cence, loaded him with gifts, and settled on the
unfortunate prince a thousand pounds a-year
* Stow's Survaie, 445. t- The same. } Holinshed, 448.

108 WORCESTER PLACE.
for life. ' After two months stay, he returned
into France, where he also met with a reception
suitable" to his rank*; and dying at Parish in
1393^ was interred in the Gelatins1, where lift
tomb is to be seen to this day f. '"'¦''-
John duke of "Norfolk^ the faithful adherent
of the usurper Richard III. had a grant of this
tower from his maker, and made it his resi
dence \. -¦/-' - *-^ -
Near the water-side, a little to the west of
Vintners *-hall, stood Worcester Place, the house
of the accomplished John Tiptbft, earl of Wor
cester^ lord high treasurer of 'England. All
his love for the sciences could nbt soften in him
the ferocious temper bf the unhappy times -he
lived iri. While he was in Ireland, he cruelly
destroyed two infants of the Desmond family.
And, in 1470, sitting in^jiidgment on twenty
gentlemen and yeomen, taken at Sea near South
ampton, he caused them to !be hanged and
beheaded, then hung by ,stheir legs, ; and their
heads stucKon a stake' driveri ihto their funda
ments. He had deserted tire canse; of Hen'rv,
and was beheaded by order ^ "She* great earl bf

jFiplasart, ii. q. 41. _ " t Montfaucoii, Mon. franc; iiL 9°.
Mr. Brooke.

, iQueen-hithe. 4p^
Warwiek, who had just before thought proper
to quit that of Edward,
The next place of antiquity, on the banks of
the Thames, is Queen-liithe, or harbour;, its
original name was Edred's-hitjie, and possibly
existed in, the time of the Saxons. .This was
one of the places for- large boats, andevenships,
Jjo discharge their lading; for there was a
draw-bridge in one part of London^bridge,
which was pulled up occasionally, toadmitthe
passage i of~ large vessels; express care being
taken to l§nd corn, ,fish, aqd provisions, in dif
ferent places,, for the conveniencyof thp inhabi
tants; and other liithes. were appointed for the
landing of different merchandise, in order that
business might be carried onifwith. regularity.
When this, hi the fell into the liands of king
Stephen,, he bestowed.^ on WiUiain <^e Ypres,
who, in his piety, agfin gave it to the convent
of the Holy Trinity, within. Aldgate. It again
fell to the crown, in the „,tipe„ of. Henry, II j,
and then acquired its pres.epfname, being called
Ripa Regime, thp Qu&en^s .Wharf. That
monarch compelled the ?§hips of,, the cinque
ports to bring their corn here, and to no other
place. It probably was part of her majesty's
pin-money, by the attention paid to her interest

110 BEAUMONT-INN.
in theaffair. When I visited this dock, I saw
a melancholy proof of the injury trade may
Sustain by the ruinous state of Blackfriars-
bridge, the result of the bad materials of which
part of it has been unhappily composed. A
large stone had fallen out of its place. A vast
barge deeply laden, I think, with corn and malt,
struck on this sunk rock, and foundered. It
was weighed up, and brought into this place to
discharge its damaged cargo.
A little to the north-west of Queen-hithe, on
Old Fish-street-hill, stood the inn or town
residence of the lords of-Mont-hault, or Mold,
in Flintshire. The present church, named
from them Si. Mary Mounthaw, had been
theft- chapel. In 1234, the bishop of Hereford
purchased it, and it became his inn, and so
continued till 1553, when it was granted to
Edwatd Clinton, earl Of Lincoln. In this
parish Was also the house of Robert Belknab,
one of the judges who was banished by the
turbulent lords in the time of Richard II. when
it became 'forfeited, and was granted to William
of Wickham, bishop of Winchester. Y ** '¦
I cannot ascertain the place, but in Thames-
street/ somewhere to the north-east of St. Paul'*
wharf, stood BeaumohUiiin, ©f house, t&te resi-

COMPANY OF PAINTER-STAINERS. Ill
dence of the noble family of that name. Ed-
Ward IV. in 1485, presented it to his favorite,
the lord Hastings. On the advancement of his
grandson to the earldom of Huntingdon, it was
named after the title of the noble possessors.
In this neighbourhood, near Trig-stairs, the
abbot of Chertsey had his inn, or city mansion:
it was afterwards called Sandy-house, because
it became the residence of the lord Sandys.
Near Broken Wharf {between Trig-stair»
and Queen-hithe) was an ancient and large
building of stone, with arched gates, the resi
dence of Hugh de Bigot, earl of Norfolk, in
the time of Henry III. In 1316, it was pos
sessed by Thomas Brotherton, -duke of Nor
folk, and earl-marshal; and in 1432; by John
Moubray, also duke of Norfolk. But in the
reign of queen Elizabeth it was much more
honoured, by. being the mansion of that opulent
and charitable citizen Thomas Sutton, founder
of the Charter-house hospital, and author of
numberless other good deeds, rvh-- ¦--'*<
Opposite to Queen-hithe, on the south side
of Thames-street, is Little Trinity Lane, where
the eoihpany of painter-stainers have their hail.
These artists formed themselves into a fraternity
as ea^ly as the rfign of Edward III. and also

112 COMPANY OF PAINTER-STAINERS:
erected themselves into a company; but were
not incorporated. They styled themselves
painter-stainers; the chief work being the
staining or painting of glass, illuminating
missals, or painting of portatif or other altars,
and now and then a portrait; witness that of
Richard II. and the portraits of the great John
Talbot and his wife, preserved at Castle Ashby*.
In the year 1575, they found that plaisterers,
aud all sorts of unskilful persons, intermeddled
in their business, and brought their art into
disrepute by the badness and slightness of their
work. They determined (as the surgeons in
later days) to keep their mystery pure from
all pretenders. They were incorporated in
1576, had their master, warden, and common
seal: George Gower was queen Elizabeth's
serjeant-paiuter f ; but, as I do not find bis
name in Mr. Walpole's anecdotes, I suspecthis
art was confined to the humbjer part. This
corporation extended only to such artists who
practised within the city. As art is uncon-
fined, numbers arose in different parts, and
tettled in Westminster, the' seat of the court.
They for a long time remained totally uncon-
* Journey to London. f Strypc's Stow, ii. book v. p. 214,

PAINTINGS IN THEIR HALL. 113
nected even with each other. About the year
1576, they solicited and received the royal
patronage, arid were incorporated under the
title of master, wardens, and commonalty of
painter-stainers. The majority are independent
of any other body corporate; but several
ambhg them are regular freemen of the city
under the ancient company. Numbers of
paintings are preserved here : many of them
probably by the members of the society. The
portraits of Charles II. and his queen, by
Houseman; architectureof the Corinthian order,
by Trevit; the fire of London,, by Wag
goner*; a landscape, by Aggas ; tler'aclitus
and Democritus, by Penn; fish and fowl, by
Robinson; birds, by Barlow; fruit and flowers,.
by Everbrook ; a ruin, by Griffier ; and Mo-.
namy contributed a fine piece of shipping. ,, On
the ceilirig4s an allegorical painting, the. work,.
of Fuller. ' The silver cup and coyer, given to,
this society by the great Carribden, who.w,as„
sonof a painter in the Old Bailey, is preserved
here, and annually produced bn Si. Luke's day,
the old master drinking but of it to the new one, .
then elected.'
* This is engraven for the second edition of this work,
VOL. II. I

114 BAYNARD CASTLE.
The next remarkableplace is Baynard Castle,
one of the two castles built on the west end of
the town, ' ' with walls and ramparts," men
tioned by Fitzstephen. It took its name from its
founder, a nobleman and follower of the Con
queror, and who died in the reign of William
Rufus. It was forfeited to the crown in 111 1,
by one of his descendants. Henry I. bestowed it
on Robert Fitz-Richard, fifth son of Richard
de Tonebrugge, son of Gilbert earl of Clare*.
To this family did appertain, in right of the
castle, the office of castilian, and banner-bearer
of the city of London. There is a curious de
claration of their rights, in the person of Ro
bert Fitzwalter, one of his descendants, ex
pressing his duty in time of war, made in all
the fullness of chivalry, in 1303, before John
Blondon, then lord mayor. It is there recited,
that, " The sayd Robert, and his heyeres,
" ought to be, and are chiefe bannerers of
" London, in fee for the chastilarie, which he
" and his ancestors had by Castell Baynard,
" in the said city. In time of warre, the sayd
" Robert, and his heyers, ought to serve the
" citie in manner as followeth : that is,
* Dugdale's Baron, i. 218.

RIGHTS OF THE CASTILIAN. 115
" The sayd Robert ought to come, he beeing
" the twentith man of armes, on horsebacke,
" covered with cloth, or armour, unto the
" great west doore of Saint Paul, with his
" banner displayed before him of his armes.
" And when bee is come to the sayd doore,
" mounted and apparelled as before is said, the
" maior, with his aldermen and sheriffes, armed
" in their armes, shall come out of the sayd
" church of Saint Paul unto the sayd doore,
" with a banner in his hand, all on foote :
" which banner shall be gules, the image of
" Saint Paul, gold; the face, hands, feete, and
" sword of silver : and assoone as the sayd
" Robert shall see the maior, aldermen, and
" sheriffes come on foot out of the church,
" armed with such a banner, he shall alight
" from his horse, and salute the maior, and
" say to him, sir maior, I am come to do my
" service, which I owe to the citie. And the
" maior and aldermen shall answere, We give
" to you, as to our bannerer of fee in this citie,
" this banner of this citie to beare and governe,
" to the honour and profite of the citie, to our
" power. And the sayd Robert, and his Beyers,
" shall receive the banner in his hands, and
" shall go on foote out of the gate, with the
i2

116 ' RIGHTS OF THE CASTILIAN.
" banner in his hands ; and the maior, alder -
" men," and sheriffes shall follow to the doore,
" and shall bring a horse to the said Robert,
" worth twenty pound, which horse shall be
" saddled with a saddle of the armes of the
" said Robert, and shall be covered with sin-
" dais of the sayd armes. Also, they shall
" present to him twenty pounds starling money,
" and deliver it to the chamberlaine of the1
" sayd Robert, for his expences that day.
" Then the said Robert shall mount upon the
" horse, which the maior presented to him,
" with the banner in his hand, and as soon as
" he is up, he shall say to the maior, that he
" cause a marshall to-be chosen for the host, ¦
" one of the citie; which 'marshall being chosen,
" the said Robert shall command the maior and >
" burgesses of the citie to warne the common--
" ers to assemble together ; and they shall all
" goe under the banner of Saint Paul : and the
" said Robert shall beare it himself unto Ald-
" gate; and there the said Robert and maior
" shall deliver the said banner of Saint Paul
" from thence, to whom they shall assent or <
" think good. And if they must make any •
" issue forth of the citie, then the sayd Robert
" ought to choose two forth of every ward, the

RIGHTS OF THE CASTILIAN. 117
" most sage personages, to foresee to the safe
' ' keeping.of the citie after they bee gone forth.
" And this counsell shall be taken in the
" priorie of the Trinitie, neere unto Aldgate ;
" and againe before every towne or castell,
" which the host of London shall besiege ; if
" the siege continue a whole yeere, the sayd
" Robert shall have for every siege, of the
" communally of London, a 100 shillings for
" his travaile and no more.
"-/These be the rights that the said Robert
" hath in the time of warre. Rights belong-
fe ing to Robert Fitzwalter, and to his heires
" in the citie of Lond. in the time of peace,
" are these; that is to say, The sayd Robert
" hath a soken or ward in the citie, that is, a
" wall of the canonrie of Saint Paul, as a man
fC goeth downe the street, before the brewhouse
" of Saint Paul, unto the Thames, and so to
" the side of the mill, which is in the water
" that Cometh down from" the Fleet-bridge,
" and goeth so by London wals, betwixt the
" Friers preachers and Ludgate, and so re-
" turneth backe by the house of the sayd
ft Friers, '¦ unto the sayd wall of the sayd ca-
f '¦ nonrie of Saint Paul, that is, all the parish of
ft Saint Andrew, which is in the gift of his an-

118 RIGHTS OF THE CASTILIAN.
f cestors, by the sayd signiority : and so the
' said Robert hath, appendant unto the sayd
' soken, all these things underwritten : That
' hee ought to have a sokemanrie, or the same
' ward : and if any of the sokemanry be im-
' pleaded in the Guild-hall, of any thing that
' toucheth not the body of the maior that for
' the time is, or that toucheth the body of no
' sheriffe, it is not lawful for the sokeman of
' the sokemanry of the sayd Robert ; and the
' maior, and his citizens of London, ought to
' grant him to have a court, and in his court
' he ought to bring his judgements, as it is as-
' sented and agreed upon in the Guild-hall,
' that shall be given them,
" If any therefore be taken in his sokemanrie,
' he ought to have his stockes and imprison-
' ment in his soken, and he shall be brought
' from thence to Guild-hall, before the maior,
' and there they shall provide him his judge-
' ment that ought to be given of him ; but his
' judgement shall not be published till he come
' into the court of the sayd Robert, and in his
' libertie. And the judgement shall be such,
' that if he have deserved death by treason, he
' to be tied to a post in the Thames at a good
f wharf, where boats are fastened, two ebbings

RIGHTS OF THE CASTILIAN. 119
»
" and two Sowings of the water. And if he
" be condemned for a common thief, he ought
" to be led to the Elmes, and there suffer his
" judgement as other theeves. And so the said
" Robert and his heirs hath honour, that he
" holdeth fu great franches within the citie, that
" the maior of the city, and citizens, are bound
" to doe him of right; that is. to say, that when
" the maior will hold a great counsaile, he
" ought to call the said Robert and his heyres,
" to be with him in counsaile of the citie ; and
" the said Robert ought to be sworne, to be of
" counsaile *with the city against all people,
" saving the king and his heirs. And when
" the said Robert commeth to the hustings,
" in the Guild-hall of the citie, the maior or
" his lieutenant ought to rise against him, and
" set him downe neer unto him ; and so long
" as he is in the Guild-hall, al the judgements
" ought to be given by his mouth, according
" to the record of the recorders of the said
" Guild-hall. And so many waifes as come,
" so long as he is there he ought to give them
/4 to the bayliffes of the towne, or to whom he
" wil, by the counsaile of the maior of the
" citie."
In 1428, the old castle was burnt ; it proba-

120 OCCUPIERS OF BAYNARD CASTLE.
bly at that time had changed masters, for it
was re-built by Humphrey duke of Glocester.
On his death it was granted by Henry VI. to
Richard duke of York. In the important con
vention of the great men of the kingdom, in
1458, the prelude to the bloody civil broils, ¦
Richard lodged, here with his train of four
hundred men; and all his noble partizans had
their warlike suite. Let me say, thatthe king-
making earl came attended with six hundred
men, all in red jackets embroidered, with rag
ged staves, before and behind, and were lodged
in Warwick-lane; in whose house there was
often the scene of boundless hospitality, the
instrument of his furious spirit and boundless
ambition. This mighty peer, in all his castles, was sup
posed to feed annually thirty thousand men.
But Baynard Castle was the scene of a still
more important action in 1460; the youthful
Edward assumed the name and dignity of king,
confirmed by a number of persons of rank as
sembled in this place, after it had been con
ferred on him by a mixed and tumultuary
multitude. The usurper Richard in the very same castle
took on him the title of king. Here he was,

OCCUPIERS OF BAYNARD CASTLE. 121
waited on by his creature Buckingham, the
mayor, and such part of the citizens who had
been prepared for the purpose of forcing the
crown on the seemingly reluctant hypocrite.
Shakespeare has made an admirable scene out
of this part of our history*. His successor
repaired, or perhaps re-built Baynard Castle,
and, as if foreseeing a long series of peaceful
years. Changed its form into that of a palace
for quiet times. According to the view I have
seen, it included a square court, with an octa
gonal tower in the center, and two in the front;'
between which were several square projections
from top to bottom, with the windows in pairs
one above the other; beneath was a bridge'
and stairs to the river f.
Henry often resided here, and from hence
made several of his solemn processions. Here,
in 1505, he lodged Philip of Austria, the ma
trimonial king of Castile, tempest-driven into
his dominions, and showed him the pomp and
glory of his capital J.
This castle was the residence of sir William
Sydney, who died chamberlain and steward to
Edward VI. And in this place Mary, the
* Richard III. act iii. sc. vii. •)¦ Holinshed, 793,
X The same.

122 TOWER OF MONTFICHET.
gloomy queen of Philip II. of Spain, had her
right to the throne resolved on ; and from
hence her partizans sallied forth to proclaim
her lawful title. At this time it was the pro
perty and residence of William Herbert, earl
of Pembroke, a particular favourer of the
rightful heir. Her successor, Elizabeth, did.
him the honour of taking a supper with his
lordship: after supper, her majesty went on the
water to show herself to her subjects ; her
barge was instantly surrounded by hundreds of
boats; loud acclamations delivered from the
heart, music, and fireworks, testified the happi
ness they felt at the sight of this mother of her
people. Early hours were then the fashion,
for, notwithstanding this scene was exhibited
on the 25th of April, she retired to her palace
at 10 o'clock*. The family of the earls of
Shrewsbury resided in it-till it was burnt in the
great fire.
To the west of this stood the other of Fitz-
stephen's castles, the tower of Montfichet,
founded by Gilbert de Montfichet, a native of
Rome, but related to the Conqueror: he brought
with him a strong force, and fought gallantly
* Strype's Annals.

PUDDLE DOCK AND ITS VICINITY. 123
in his cause, in the field of Hastings*. By
him was founded this tower: its date was short,
for it was demolished by king John in 1213,
after banishing Richard, successor to Gilbert;
the actual owner f. The materials were ap
plied, in 1276 (as before related) to the buiUU
ing of the monastery of the Black Friars.
A little farther is Puddle Dock, and Puddle
Dock Hill, remarkable only for having in the
latter the western termination of the long street
called Thames- street, which extends eastward
as far as the Tower, a mile in length. In early
times, the southern side was guarded by a wall,
close to the river, strengthened with towers.
These are mentioned by Fitzstephen as having
been ruined and undermined by the river. Lord
Lyttel ton justly observes, that after the build
ing of the Tower and the bridge, there was no
necessity of restoring these fortifications; as it
was impossible (at least after the bridge was
flung across the Thames ) for any fleet to annoy
the city. It originally stood farther from the
river than the present buildings and wharfs, a
considerable space between the street and the
water having been gained ina long series of ages.
* Dugdale's Baron, i. 438. t Stop's Survaie, 114.

124 PUDDLE DOCK AND ITS VICINITY.
Not far from Puddle Dock, in old times,
stood an ancient house of stone and timber,
built by the lords of Berkeley, a potent race'of
barons. In the reign of Henry VI. it was the
residence of the great Richard Beauchamp,
earl of Warwick*, who seems to have made
himself master of this by violence, among other
estates of the Berkelies, to which he made pre
tensions on the death of Thomas fourth lord
Berkeley f.
From hence I turn north till I gain the site
of Ludgate. On the left all is piety; Credo-
lane, Ave Maria ! lane, Amen Corner, and
Pater-Noster-row, indicate the sanctity of the
motley inhabitants. Before us rises the mag
nificent structure of St. Paul's, and its con
fined church-yard. Before I mention that
noble temple, I pursue the left hand way to
Warwick-lane; Where stands a dome majestic to the sight,
And sumptuous arches bear its oval height;
A golden globe, plac'd high with artful skill,
Seems to the distant sight a gilded pill.
In prose, the College of Physicians; a society
* Stow's Survaie, 6a. f Dugdale's Baron, i. 362,

COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS. 125
founded originally by doctor Linacre, the first
who rescued the medical art from the hands of
illiterate monks and empirics. He studied in
Italy: and became physician to Henry VII.
and VIII. Edward VI. and the princess Mary.
He died in 1524*. The college was first in
Knight-Rider-street; afterwards it was re
moved to Amen Corner; and finally fixed here.
The present building was the work of sir Chris
topher Wren. On the top of the dome is a
gilt ball, which the witty Garth calls the
gilded pill. On the summit of the center is the
bird of iEsculapius, the admonishing cock.
On one side of the court is a statue of
Charles II. : on the opposite that of the noto
rious sir .John Cutler. I was greatly at a loss
to learn how so much respect was shown to a
character so stigmatized for avarice. I think
myself much indebted ta doctor Warren for
the extraordinary history. It appears, by the
annals of the college, that in the year 1674, a
considerable sum of money had been subscribed
by the fellows, for the erection of a new college,
* See my friend doctor Aikin's Biographical Memoirs of
Medicine, octavo, 1770, which a misjudging period dis
couraged hiia.from completing.

126 SIR JOHN CUTLER.
the old one having been consumed in the great
fire, eight years before. It also appears, that
sir John Cutler, a near relation of doctor
Whistler, the president, was desirous of becom
ing a benefactor. A committee was appointed
to wait upon sir John, to thank him for his
kind intentions. He accepted their thanks,
renewed his promise, and specified the part of
the building of which he intended to bear
the expence. In the year 1680, statues in
honour of the king, and sir John, were voted
by the college: and nine years afterwards, the
college being then completed, it was resolved
to borrow money of sir John Cutler, to dis
charge the college debt, but the sum is not
specified. It appears, however, that in 1669,
sir John's executors made a demand on the
college of 7000/.; which sum was supposed to
include the money actually lent, the money pre
tended to be given, but set down as a debt in
sir John's books, and the interest on both.
Lord Radnor, however, and Mr. Boulter, sir
John Cutler's executors, were prevailed on to
accept 2000/. from the college, and actually
remitted the other five. So that sir John's
promise, which he never performed, obtained
him the statue, and the liberality of his execu-

PORTRAITS IN THE COLLEGE. 127
tors has kept it in its place ever since. But the
college wisely have obliterated the inscription,
which, in the warmth of its gratitude, it had
placed beneath the figure.
Omnis Cutleri cedat labor Amphitheatro.
In the great room are several portraits of
gentlemen of the faculty. Among them sir
Theodore Mayerne, a native of Geneva, physi
cian to James and Charles I. The great Syden
ham, to whom thousands owe their lives, by
his daring attempt (too long neglected) of the
cool regimen in the small-pox. Harvey, who
first discovered the circulation of the blood.
And the learned and pious sir Thomas Brown,
who said that the discovery of that great man's
was preferable to the discovery of the New
World. Sir Edmund King, a favourite of Charles II.
When that monarch was first struck with the
apoplexy, he had the courage to relieve his
majesty by instant bleeding;- putting the rigour
of the law to defiance in case of failure of suc
cess. A thousand pounds was ordered as a
reward, but never paid*. He was among the
* Burnet's Hist_ of his own Times, i. 606.

128 TRANSFUSION OF BLOOD.
philosophers of his time, who made the famous
experiment of transfusing the blood of one ani
mal into another. The blood of a healthy
young spaniel was conveyed into the veins of
an old mangy dog, who was perfectly cured in
less than a fortnight*. The blood of a young
dog was transfused into one almost blind with
age, and which, before^ could hardly move:
the latter did in two hours leap and frisk; and
yet the young dog, which received in return
the blood of the old or distempered, felt no sort
ofinjuryf. Would that the same experiment
could be extended to the human species ! and,
should the change be effected on mind as well
as body, how unspeakable would be the benefit
to the whole race ! Not only every loathsome
disorder would be done away, but every folly,
meanness, and vice, changed to their opposite
virtues, by a due transfusion of worthy plebeian
blood: and, what would make the experiment
more beautiful, not the least inconvenience in
body or mind would result to the generous
lender of the uncontaminated fluid.
A very good portrait of the anatomist Vesa-
lius, on board, by John Calkar, a painter from
* Phil. Trans, abr. iii. 224.. f The same.

PORTRAITS IN THE HALL. 129
the dutchy of Cleves, who died in 1546. This
celebrated character had filled the professor's
chair at Venice; after that, ywas for some
time physician to Charles V. Disgusted with
the manners of a court, he determined on a
"voyage to the Holy Land. The republic of
Venice sent to him to fill the professorship of
medicine at Padua, vacant by the death of
Fallopius. On his return, in 1564, he was
shipwrecked on the isle of Zanta, where he
perished by hunger.
Doctor Goodal, the Stentor of Garth's dispen
sary ; and doctor Millington, whom the witty
author compliments with the following lines,
and, from what I understand, with great justice:
Machaon, whose experience we adore,
Great as your matchless merit is your power:
At your approach the baffl'd tyrant Death '
Breaks his keen shafts, and grinds his clashing teeth.
The portrait of doctor Freind, the historian
of physic, and the most able in his profession,
and the most elegant writer of his time, must
not be omitted. TT/he fine busts of Harvey,
Sydenham, and Mead, the physician of our own
days, merit attention: and with them I- close
the distinguished list.
VOL. II. k

130 ORIGIN OF, WARWICK-LANE.
The library was furnished with books by
sir Theodore Maycrne ; and it received a
considerable addition from the marquis of
Dorchester. I reflect with pleasure on ray
frequent visits to Mr. George Edwards, the
worthy librarian, and very able ornithologist.
His works are so well known, and so justly
esteemed, as to render any panegyric of mine
sHperfluous. Notwithstanding we were both
of a trade, we lived in the most perfect har
mony. I esteem his present to me, not long
before his death, of several of his original
drawings in Indian ink, a most valuable part of
my collection, as well as a proof of the friend
ship of a truly honest man*.
Warwick-lane took its name from its having
in it the inn or house of the Beauchamps earls
of Warwick. Cecily countess of Warwick
lived in it the 28th of Henry VI. It afterwards
fell to Richard Neville, the famous king-making
earl, whose popularity and manner of living
merits recital : " Stow mentions his coming to
" London, in the famous convention of 1458,
" with 600 men, all in red jackets imbrodered,
" with ragged staves, before and behind, and-
* He died July 23d, 1773, aged 80.

GUY EARL OF WARWICK. 131
( ' was lodged in Warwicke-lane : in whose
" house there was often six oxen eaten at a
" breakfast, and every taverne was full of his
" meate, for hee that had any acquaintance in
" that house, might have there so much of
<e sodden and rost meate as he could pricke
" and carry upon a long dagger*."
On the front of a house in the upper end of
the lane is placed a small neat statue of Guy
earl of Warwick, renowned in the days of king
Athelstan for killing the Danish giant Colbrand,
and performing numbers of other exploits, the
delight of my childish days. This statue is in
miniature the same with that in the chapel of
St. Mary Magdalen, in Guy's-cliff, near War
wick. The arms on the shield are cheque or
and azure, a cheveron ermine, which were his
arms, afterwards gold, by the Beauchamps earls
of Warwick f.
Not far from hence, near Ave- Maria-lane,
stood a great house of stone and wood, belong
ing, in old times, to John duke of Bretagny,
and earl of Richmond, cotemporary with Ed-

* Stow's Survaie, 130.
f John C. Brooke, esq. Somerset. See also Dugdale's
Warwickshire, i. 274.
k2

132 STATIONERS' HALL.
ward II. and III.; after him it was possessed
by the earls of Pembroke, in the time of Rich
ard II. and Henry VI., and was called Pem-
broke's-inii) near Ludgate. It next came to
William Beauchamp lord Abergavenny, and
was called Burgavenny-house. In the 19th
of Henry VI. it fell, in right of his wife, to
Edmund Neville, lord Abergavenny; and in
the time of queen"Elizabeth we find it possessed
by. Henry lord Abergavenny. To. finish the
anti-climax, it was finally possessed by the
company of stationers, who re-built it of wood,
and made it their hall. It was destroyed by
the great fire ; and was succeeded by the pre
sent plain building. The preceding owners
miglit boast of their nobility; their successors
of their wealth; for in that sad calamity, lord
Clarendon estimated that the loss of the com
pany did not amount to less than two hundred
thousand pounds.
The cathedral of St. Paul more than fills the
spacesof Ludgate-hill. The best authority we
have for the origin of this church, is from
its great restorer sir Christopher Wren. His
opinion, that there had been a church on this
spot, built by the Christians in the time of the
Romans, was confirmed: when he searched for

S-T. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, 133
the foundations for his own design, he met
with those of the original presbyterium, or
semicircular chancel of the old church. They
consisted only of Kentish rubble-stone, artfully
worked, and consolidated with exceeding hard
mortar, in the Roman manner, much excelling
the superstructure*. He explodes the notion
of there having been here a temple of Diana,
and the discovery of the horns of animals used
in the sacrifices to that goddess, on which the
opinion had been founded, no such having been
discovered in all his searches f. What was
found, is mentioned in the 15th page of this
book. The first church is supposed to have been
destroyed in the Dioclesian persecution, and to
have been re-built in the reign of Constantine.
This was again demolished bythepaganSaxons;
and restored, in 603, by Sebert, a petty prince,
ruling in these parts under Ethelbert king of
Kent, the first Christian monarch of the Saxon
race ; who, at the instance of St. Augustine,
appointed Melitus the first bishop of London.
Erkenwald, the son of king Offa, fourth in suc
cession from Melitus, ornamented his cathedral
* Parentalia, 266. t The same, 272,

134 st. Paul's cathedral.
very highly, and improved the revenues with
his own patrimony. He was most deservedly
canonized ; for the very litter in which he was
carried in his last illness, continued many cen
turies to ciue fevers by the touch; and the
very chips, carried to the sick, restored them
to health.
When the city of London was destroyed by
fire, in 1086, this church was burnt; the bishop
Mauritius began to re-build it, and laid the
foundations, which remained till its second
destruction, from the same cause, in the last
century. Notwithstanding Mauritius lived
twenty years after he had begun this pious work,
and bishop Beaumes, or Belmeis, enjoyed the see
twenty more, yet, such was the grandeur of the
design, that it remained unfinished. The first
had the ruins of the Palatine Tower bestowed
on him, as materials for the building : and
Henry I. bestowed on Beaumes, or Belmeis,
part of the ditch belonging to the Tower,
which, with purchases made by himself, enabled
him' to inclose the whole with a wall. The
same monarch granted besides, that every ship
which brought stone for the church, should
be exempted from toll; he gave him also all
the great fish taken in his precincts, except the

st. faith's church. 135
tongues ; and lastly, he secured to him and his
successor, the delicious tythes of all his venison
in the county of Essex.
The steeple was finished in 1221. The noble
subterraneous church of St. Faith, Ecclesia
Sancta Fidis in cryptis, was begun in 1257, It
was supported by three rows of massy clustered
pillars, with ribs diverging from them to sup
port the solemn roof. This was the parish
church. This undercroft, as these sort of
buildings were called, had in it several chaun-
tries and monuments. Henry Lacie, earl of
Lincoln, who died in 1312, made what was
called the New Work, at the east end, in which
was the chapel of our Lady, and that of St.
Dunstan. In the last was the tomb of that
great earl.
The Chapter-house was, adjoining to the
south transept, was circular, and supported by
four central pillars, and of more elegant Gothic
than the rest of the building. This projected
into a most beautiful cloister, two stories high.
On the walls of a cloister on the north side of
St. Paul's, called Pardon-church-haugh, was
painted the Machabre, or dance of death, a
common subject on the walls of cloisters or
religious places. This was a single piece, a

136 st. paul's cathedral.
long train of all orders of men, from the pope
to the lowest of human beings ; each figure
has as his partner, Death ; the first shaking
his remembering hour-glass*. Our old poet
Lydgate, who flourished in the year 1430,
translated a poem on the subject, from the
French verses which attended a painting of the
same kind about St. Innocent's cloister, at Paris.
The original verses were made by Machaber, a
German, in his cfwn language. This shows the
antiquity of the subject, and the origin of the
hint from which Holbein composed his famous
painting at Basil.
This cloister, the dance, and innumerable
fine monuments (for here were crowded by far
the most superb ) fell victims to the sacrilege
of the protector Somerset, who demolished the
whole, and carried the materials to his palace
then erecting in the Strand.
Farther to the west, adjoining to this south
side, was the parish church of St. Gregory,
Over it was one of the towers which orna
mented the western front. It was called the
Lollards' Tower, and was the bishop's prison
* Dug'dale's Monast. i. 367; in which both print and verses
are preserved.— See Dugdale's St. Paul, 134, and Stem's'
Survaie, 61 6",

THE LOLLARDS' TOWER. 137
for the heterodox, in which was committed
many a midnight murder. That of Richard
Hun n, hi 1514, was one most foul; he was
cot-iir>itted there ; he was hanged there by the
contrivance of the chancellor of the diocese,
Horsey; he wras scandalized with suicide; his
corpse was ignominiously buried. The murder
came out; the coroner's inquest sat on the
ashes, and they brought in a verdict of wilful
murder against Horsey and his accomplices.
The bishop, Fitzjames, defended them. The
king interfered, and ordered the murderers to
make restitution to the children of the deceased,
to the amount, of fifteen hundred pounds. Yet
the perpetrators of this villany escaped with a
pardon, notwithstanding the king, in his order,
speaks to them as having committed what him
self styles the cruel murder*.
The last person confined here was Peter
Burchet of the Temple, who, in 1573, despe
rately wounded our famous seaman sir Richard
Hawkins, in the open street, whom he had mis
taken for sir Christopher Hatton. He was
committed to this prison, and afterwards re
moved to the Tower; he there barbarously
* Fox's Martyrs, ii. 8 to 14.

138 st. Paul's cathedral.
murdered* one his keepers ; he was tried, con
victed, had his right hand struck off, and then
hanged. He was found to be a violent enthu
siast, who thought it lawful to kill such who
opposed the truth of the gospel.
The style of the ancient cathedral was a most
beautiful Gothic; over the east end was a most
elegant circular window ; alterations were made
in the ends of the two transepts, sathat their
form is not delivered down to us in the ancient
plans ; from the central tower rose a lofty and
most graceful spire.
The dimensions of this noble temple, as
taken in 1309, were these : the length six hun
dred and ninety feet ; the breadth a hundred
and twenty ; ihe height of the roof of the west
part, from the floor, one hundred and two ;
of the east part, a hundred and eighty-eight;
of the tower, two hundred and sixty; of the
spire, which was made of wood covered with
lead, two hundred and seventy-four. The whole
space the church occupied was three acres and
a half, one rood and a half, and six perches f.
We may be astonished at this amazing build
ing, and naturally enquire what fund could
* Stow, 690. Kencet, ii. 449- f Pugdale, 17.

st. paul's cathedral. 139
supply money to support so vast an expence.
But monarchs resigned their revenues resulting
from the customs due for the materials, which
were brought to the adjacent wharfs; they
furnished wood from the royal forests: pre
lates gave up much of their revenues; and,
what was more than all, by the pious bait of
indulgences, and remissions of penance, brought
in, from the good people of this realm, most
amazing sums. Pope Innocent III. in 1252,
gave a release of sixty days penance: the arch
bishop of Cologne gave, a few years before, a
relaxation of fifty days : Boniface, archbishop
of Canterbury, forty days. In brief, there
was not a prelate who did not, in this manner,
excite his flock to contribute liberally to this
great and pious design.
The nave was supported by clustered pillars
and round arches, the style preserved by the
Normans, after the conquered Saxons. The
galleries and windows of the transepts were
also finished with rounded arches. The skreen
to the choir, and the chapel of our Lady, were
Gothic. The skreen remarkably elegant, or
namented with statues on each side of the door,
at the expence of sir Paul Pindar*. We are
* See Dugdale's St. Paul, p. 143 ; plates marked 145-6-7-8.

140 TOMBS IN THE ANCIENT CHURCH.
obliged to the industry of Hollar, for perserv-
ing this knowledge of this ancient state. His
great employer sir William Dugdale, and that
eminent artist, were fortunately coeval. The
pen of the one, and the burine of the other,
were in full vigour, before the ravages of the
great fire, on multitudes of the choice antiqui
ties of our capital. To the same distinguished
characters we owe our acquaintance with the
tombs: but we are not to expect in this church
the number, nor the elegance, of those of
Westminster. St. Peter, the porter of heaven,
had far the preference to the tutelar saint of
this cathedral. Few crowned heads crowded
here : except those of Saxon race, none were
found within these walls.
But if they were deprived of that boasf, they
had the honor of receiving the remains of
Old John of Gaunt, time-honored Lancaster!
the brother, father, and uncle of kings. He
died in 1399; and had a most magnificent tomb
erected over him, ruined by the fanatical
soldiery of the last century. He, and his first
wife Blanch, lay recumbent beneath a rich
*anopy of tabernacle work ; his crest upon his

TOMES IN THE ANCIENT CHURCH. 141
abacof, or cap of state ; his shield, and his
mighty spear, were hung oh his monument as
so many trophies.
In point of time, as well as sanctity, the rich
Gothic shrine of St. Erkenwald should have
preceded ; which rested on his plain altar tomb.
No wonder if, on account of the miracles be
fore mentioned, this shrine was a great resort
of pious devotees. It was enriched with gold,
silver, and pretious stones, by the dean and
chapter, who, in 1339, employed three gold
smiths to work on it a whole year ,- the wages
of the most expert was only eight shillings a
week, the other two five shillings. Of the
gifts from devotees, that of Richard de Pres
ton, of London, grocer, was most valuable,
being his best sapphire stones, there to remain
for curing of infirmities in the eyes*.
The shrine of Roger Niger, bishop of Lon
don in the thirteenth century, was also in high
repute. t>A visit to his shrine was frequently
enjoined to the indulgences given for the re
building of this church.
Henry Lacie, the great earl of Lincoln, an
eminent warrior under Edward I. particularly
* Dugdale, 23. — See Boethius de Lapid. et Gem. 184;
who treats of the virtues of the Sapphyr.

142 TOMES IN THE ANCIENT CHURCH.
in the Welsh wars, was buried in that part of
the church of his own building, called the
New Work. He died at his house in town,
called Lincoln's-inn. He is armed in mail ;
his body covered with a short gown; his legs
crossed, for he had either the merit of visiting
the Holy Land, or ( which would entitle him
to a right to that attitude) made a vow to per
form that expiatory privilege.
Sir John Beauchamp, a younger son of Guy
earl of Warwick, in 1360 -was interred here.
His figure lay armed, and recumbent. He was
one of the founders of the order of the garter ;
and distinguished himself, in the niartial reign
of Edward III. by numbers of gallant actions
by sea and by land.
That accomplished knight, the ill-fated sir
Simon de Burley, lay here in complete armour,
under a most elegant Gothic arch. I have
mentioned his sad story at p. 25, so will not
repeat the subject. Here was deposited, in
1468, (severed from her husband the great
John Talbot, who was interred at Whi- "
church, in Shropshire) Margaret countess of
Shrewsbury. A monument was designed by
the friendship of one John Wenlock, at the
expence of a hundred pounds ; but, from

TOMBS IN THE ANCIENT CHURCH. 143
some unknown cause, the inscription only was
executed. William earl of Pembroke, an active cha
racter in the reigns of Henry VIII. Mary,
Edward VI. and Elizabeth, with his, first
countess Anne*, sister to Catherine Parre,
queen to Henry VIII. who dying at Baynard
castle, in 155J, was interred here with vast
solemnity. The portraits of Anne and her lord,
in painted glass, are still extant in the chapel
at Wilton, and ought to be engravedf . The
earl followed her in 1 569. They lay beneath
a magnificent canopy divided into two arches ;
at their head, kneeling, is their daughter Anne
lady Talbot; at their feet, in the same attitude,
their sons Henry earl of Pembroke, and sir
Edward Herbert, of Pool, i. e. Powis castle,
ancestor of the earls of Powis.
At the expence of the Mercers company was
erected a monument to the memory of John
Colet, . the learned dean of St, Paul's, the inti
mate of Erasmus, and all the eminent scholars
of the time. This compliment was payed him
by the mercers, because his father had been of
their company, and twice lord mayor. He
* Dugdale's Baron, ii. 2&9. f Mr. Walpole-

144 TOMBS IN THE ANCIENT CHURCH.
was, in the beginning of life, luxurious, high-"
spirited, and subject to excess in. mirth ; and
used a. freedom of speech which he afterwards
corrected. He thought too much of the clergy
of his days ; and often exposed the corruptions
of the church. This subjected him to perse
cution, but he escaped unhurt. At length he
determined to retire from the world ; which he
quitted for abetter in 1519. He dedicated his
great fortune to the founding of the school of
St. Paul's, in honour of Christ Jesu in pueri-
tia,. for a hundred and fifty-three scholars. A
handsome house is built for this purpose, under
the care of the Mercers company. His monu- .
ment J4ad his bust in terra cotta, dressed in a
gown and square cap; and beneath it, a skele
ton laid on a mat rolled up under its head. N
That great and honest man, sir Nicholas Ba
con, lay here recumbent, and, notwithstanding
he was a gownsman, was singularly clad in
complete armour: beneath him are his two
wives, in gowns and short ruffs.
Sir Philip Sydney, the delight of the age,
the most heroic and virtuous character of his
time, had no more than a board with a most
wretched inscription of eight verses, to record
a fame which nothing can injure. His remains

TOMBS IN THE ANCIENT CHURCH. 145
Were brought here on Jan. 16, 1586, with the
utmost magnificence. There was a general
mourning for him, and it was accounted inde
cent, for many months, for any gentleman to
appear at court, or in the city, in gay apparel*.
The partiality of an individual may mistake the
qualities of a friend ; but the testimony of a
whole nation puts his merits beyond dispute.
The memory of the great Walsingham also
rests on his own deserts. He died so poor, that
his friends were obliged to steal his remains
into their grave, for fear least they should be
arrested. By accident was left an old book of
legends, which I purchased; an ancient manu
script-list of statesmen in the reign of. Eliza
beth, consigned by the writer to the pains of
hell, for their zeal against the Catholics. The
1st, Leicester, all in fire, died 1588; 2d, Wal
singham, the secretarie, also in fire and flames.
He died April 6, 1590. No wonder, since he
could contrive to get the pope's pocket picked,
when his holiness was asleep, of the keys of a
cabinet, by which he made himself master of
an original letter of the first importance, which
proved the saving of our island from the ma
chinations of its enemies.
* Memoirs of the Sydnies, p. 109.
VOL. II. *•

146 TOMBS IN THE ANCIENT CHURCH.
As a Welshman, I must not pass over the
quibbling epitaph of the quibbling epigram
matist, my countryman John Owen, born at
Llanarmon, in Caernarvonshire, educated at
Winchester, and elected fellow of New col
lege*. He lived under the patronage of arch
bishop Williams, and died in 1623.
Parva tibi statua, quia parva statura, supelles
Parva, volat parvus magna per ora liber.
Sed non parvus honos, non parva est gloria, quippe
Ingenio haud quicquam est maj us in orbe tuo.
Parva domus texit, tempi um sed grande, poetas
Turn vere vitam, quum moriuntur, agunt. .
I will conclude with the melancholy corse
of doctor Donne, the wit of his time, standing
in a niche, and wrapped in a shroud gathered
about his head ; with his feet resting on an urn.
Not long before his death, he pressed himself
in tbat funebrial habit, placed his feet on an
urn fixed on a board exactly of his own height,
and, shutting his eyes, like a departed person,
was drawn in that attitude by a skilful painter.
This gloomy piece he kept in his room till the
day of his death, on March 31, 1631; after
which it served as a pattern for his tomb.
* Athens Oxon, i. 470. ,

THE HIGH ALTAR. 147
It will be endless to enumerate the altars of
this vast temple, numerous as those of the
Pantheon. I content myself with the mention
of the High Altar, which dazzled with gems
of gold, the gifts of its numerous votaries.
John, king of France, when prisoner in Eng
land, first paying his respects to St. Erken-
wald's shrine, offered four basons of gold :
and the gifts at the obsequies of princes, fo
reign and British, were of immense value. On
the day of the conversion of the tutelar saint,
the charities were prodigious, first to^the souls,
when an indulgence of forty days pardon was
given, vere poenitentibus, contritis etconfessis;
and, by order of Henry III. fifteen hundred
tapers were placed in the church, and fifteen
thousand poor people fed in the church-yard.
But the most singular offering was that of a
fat doe in winter, and a buck in summer, made
at the high altar, on the day of the commemora-
tionof the saint, by sir William deBaude and his
family, and then to be distributed among the
canons resident. This was in lieu of twenty-two
acres of land in Essex, which did belong to the
canons of this church. Till queen Elizabeth's
daysj the doe or buck was received solemnly,
at the steps of the high altar, by the dean and
l2

148 DRAMATIC MYSTERIES.
chapter, attired in their sacred vestments, and
crowned with garlands of roses. " They sent
" the body of the bucke to baking, and had
" the head fixed on a pole, borne before the
" crosse in the procession, untill they issued
" out of the west doore, where the keeper that
" brought it blowed the deathe of the bucke,
" and then the homers, that were about the
" citie, presently answered him in like man-
" ner; for which paines they had each man, of
"-thedeane and chapter, four pence in money,
" and their dinner ; and the keeper that
" brought it Was allowed, during his abode
" there, for his Service, meate, drinke, and
" lodging, and five shillings in money at his
<c going away, together with a lofe of breade
" having the picture of St. Paul upon it*.
The boys of St. Paul's were famous for
acting of the mysteries or holy plays, and even
regular dramas. They often had the honor of
performing before our monarchs. Their pre
parations were expensive; so that they peti
tioned Richard II. to prohibit some ignorant
and unexperienced persons from acting the His
tory of the Old Testament, to the great pre-
* Warton's Hist, of Poetry, ii. 390.

DRAMATIC MYSTERIES. 149
judice of the clergy of the church. They had
their barne- bishop, or child-bishop, who assum
ed the state and attire of a prelate. Ludi
crous as this holy counterfeit was, dean Colet
expressly orders that his scholars shall, ' ' every
" Childermas daye, come to Paulis churche,
" and heare the chylde bishop's sermon, and
sc after be at the hygh masse, and each of them
" offer a penny to the chylde bishop; and with
" them, the mais ters and surveyors of the scole*."
This character was very common in many
of the churches in France, under the name of
L'eveque des foux, or Archeveque des foux.
They were dressed in the pontifical habits, and
sung such indecent songs, danced and com
mitted such horrible profanations, even before
the altar, that at length they were suppressed
by an arret of parliamentf, at the request of
the dean and chapter at Rheims.
The holiness of this place did not prevent
thieves and profligates of all denominations
lurking within the precincts, and committing,
under favor of the night, murders and every
sort of crime. Edward I. gave the dean and

* Stow's Survaie, 641.
f Memoires de la fete des foux, pp. 5, 8, JO,

150 THE bishop's palace.
canons permission to inclose the whole withm
a wall; and to have gates to be shut every
night, to exclude all disorderly people. Within
these walls, on the north-west side, was the
bishop's palace. Froissart tells us, that after
the great tournament in Srriitbfield, king Ed
ward III. and his queen lodged here (I think
on occasion of their nuptials); "There was
" goodly daunsyng in the quenes lodging, in
" presence of the kyng and his uncles, and
" other barons of England, and ladyes, and
" damoyselles, tyll it was daye, whyche was
" tyme for every person to drawe to theyr
" lodgynges, except the kynge and quene,
" who laye there in the byshoppe's palayce^
" for there theye laye al the feastes and justes
" durynge*."
It was a building of vast extent, and fre
quently lodged our kings on different Occasions.
The poor prince Edward V. was brought here,
as he supposed to take possession of the crown ;
and, in 1501, the unhappy Catherine of Arragon
was conducted to this palace to meet her young
lover, prince Arthur; and on Nov. 14, was
publicly married to him at St. Paul's; they
* Froissart, Eng. transl. ii. civ. '

PAUL'S .CROSS. 151
returned to the palace, where they were enter
tained with a splendid nuptial feast, and re
sided here a few days, till they were visited by
the king and queen, who took the royal pair
with them by water, from Baynard Castle to
Westminster*. In 1526, Anne de Montmorenci, and others,
ambassadors from Francis I. were magnifi
cently lodged and entertained at this palace.
They were sent over to ratify the important
treaties between the two monarchs, and to com
pliment Henry with the order of St. Michael f.
And in 1546, the French ambassador Claude
Annebau, admiral of France, was splendidly
lodged in the same place J. He was a favourite
of Francis I. and sent over to make peace be
tween Charles V. his master, and Henry.
In the reign of Edward VI. the queen dow
ager of Scotland was here entertained. The
dean's house, and the houses of the preben
daries and residentiaries, were on the opposite
side; and, in those days of plain living, kept
great households and liberal hospitality§.
Before this cathedral was the famous Paul's
Cross, a pulpit formed of wood, mounted upon
* Holinshed, 789- t See the same» P« s98»
X Maitland, ii. 880. § The same.

152 paul's cross:
steps of stone, and covered with lead, in which
the most eminent divines were appointed to
preach every Sunday in the forenoon. To this
place, the court, the mayor, and aldermen, and
principal citizens, used to resort. The greatest
part of the congregation sat in the open air;
the king and his train had covered galleries ;
and the better sort of people, if I may judge
from the old prints, were also protected from
the injury of the weather; but the far greater
part stood exposed in the open air: for which
reason the preacher went, in very bad weather,
to a place called the Shrowds; a covered space
on the side of the church, to protect the con
gregation in inelement seasons. Considerable
contributions were raised among the nobility
and citizens, to support such preachers as were
( as was often the case ) called to town from
either of the universities. In particular, the
lord mayor and aldermen ordered that every
preacher who came from a distance, should be
freely accommodated, during five days, with
sweet and convenient lodgings, fire, candle, and
all necessaries. And notice was given by the
bishop of London, to the preacher appointed by
him, of the place he was to repair to.
The origin of the custom of preaching at

ITS USES, AND DEMOLITION. 153
crosses, was probably accidental. The sanc
tity of this species of pillar often caused a great
resort of people to pay their devotion to the
great object of their erection. A preacher,
seeing a large concourse, might be seized "by a
sudden impulse, ascend the steps, and deliver
out his pious advice from a station so fit to in
spire attention, and so conveniently formed for
the purpose. The example might be followed,
till the practice became established by custom.
It certainly at first was a common cross, and
coeval with the church. When it was first
covered, and converted into a pulpit-cross, we
are not informed. We are given to understand
tbat it was overthrown by an earthquake in
1382, and that William Courtney, then arch
bishop of Canterbury, collected great sums
for the re-building; which, says dean Nowel,
in a sermon he preached at this cross, he ap
plied to his own use. Courtney was a most
munificent prelate, and not likely to abuse the
charity of his flock; yet it was not re-built
till the time of Thomas Kemp, elected bishop
of London in 1449, who finished it in the form,
says Godwin, in which we see it at present*;
* Praesul. Angl. 248. — Godwin published his book in 1616".

154 USE, AttD DEMOLITION OF THE CROSS.
and so it stood till it was demolished, in 1643,
by order of parliament, executed by the willing
hands of Isaac Pennington, the fanatical lord
mayor of that year, who died in the Tower, a
convicted regicide.
We hear of this being in use as early as the
year 1259. It was used not only for the in
struction of mankind, by the doctrine of the
preacher, but for every purpose political or
ecclesiastical: for giving force to oaths, for
promulging of laws, or rather the royal plea
sure, for the emission of papal bulls, for ana
thematizing sinners, for benedictions, for ex
posing of penitents under censure of the church,
for recantations, for the private ends of the
ambitious, and for the defaming of those who
had incurred the displeasure of crowned heads.
In 1259, Henry III. commanded the lord
mayor to swear before the aldermen, every
person of twelve years and upwards, to be true
to him and his heirs.
In 1262, the same monarch caused the bull
of Urban IV. to be here made public, as an
absolution of him and his adherents, who had
sworn to observe the Oxford provisions, made
in the violent meeting at that city in 1258,
called the mad parliament.

THE PENANCE OF JANE SHORE. 155
Here, in 1299, Ralph de Baldoc, dean of St.
Paul's, cursed all those who had searched, in
the church of St. Martin in the Fields, for a
hoard of go,ld, &c.
Before this cross, in 1483, was brought;
divested of all her splendour, Jane Shore, the
charitable, the merry concubine of Edward IV.
and, after his death, of his favourite, the un
fortunate lord Hastings. After the loss of lier
protectors, she fell a victim to the malice of
crook-backed Richard. He was disappointed
(by her excellent defence) of convicting her of
witchcraft, and confederating with her lover to
destroy*him. He then attacked her on the weak
side of frailty. This was undeniable. He
consigned her to the severity of the church:
she was carried to the bishop's palace, cloathed
in a white sheet, with a taper in her hand, and
from thence conducted to the cathedral, and
the cross; before which she made a confession of
her only fault. Every other virtue bloomed in
this ill-fated fair with the fullest vigour. She
could not resist the solicitations of a youthful
monarch, the handsomest man of his time. On
his death she was reduced to necessity, scorned
by the world, and cast off by her husband, with
whom she was paired in her childish years, and

156 THE PENANCE OF JANE SHORE.
forced to fling herself into the arms of Hastings.
" In her penance she went," says Holinshed,
" in countenance and pase demure, so woman-
" lie, that, albeit she were out of all araie,
" save hir kirtle onlie, yet went she so faire
" and lovelie, naraelie, while the woondenng
" of the people cast a comelie rud in hir cheeks,
" (of whiche she before had most misse) that
" hir great shame Wan hir much praise among
" those that were more amorous of hir bodie
" than curious of hir soule. And manie good
" folkes that hated hir living, ( and glad were
" to see sin corrected) yet pitied they more
" hir penance, than rejoised therin, when they
" considered that the protector procured it
" more of a corrupt interft, than anie virtuous
" affection*-"
Rowe has flung this part of her sad story
into the following poetical dress ; but it is far
from depreciating the moving simplicity of the
old historian,
Submissive, sad, and lowly was her look;
A burning taper in her hand she bore, ij ?
And on her shoulders, carelessly confus'd
With loose neglect, her lovely tresses hung;
* Holinshed, 724.

JANE SHORE: HER PERSON DESCRIBED. 157
Upon her cheek a faintish flush was spread;
Feeble she seem'd, and sorely smit with pain,
While, barefoot as she trod the flinty pavement,
Her footsteps all along were mark'd with blood.
Yet silent still she pass'd, and unrepining;
Her streaming eyes bent ever on the earth,
Except when, in some bitter pang of sorrow,
To Heav'n she seem'd in fervent zeal to raise,
And beg that mercy man deny'd her here.

The poet has adopted the fable of her being
denied all sustenance, and of her perishing with
hunger; but that was not fact. She lived to
a great age, but in great distress and miserable
poverty ; deserted even by those to whom she
had, during prosperity, done the most essential
services. She dragged a wretched life, even
to the time of sir Thomas More, who intro
duces her story into his life of Edward V. The
beauty of her person is spoken of in high terms :
" Proper she was, and faire : nothing in hir
" bodie that you would have changed; but
" you would havewished hir somewhat higher.
" Thus saie they that knew hir in hir youth. —
" Now is she old, leane, withered, and dried
" up; nothing left but rivelled skin and hard
" ' bone ; and yet, being even such, who so well
" advise her visage, might gesse and devise,

158 PORTRAIT OF JANE SHORE.
" which parts how filled would make it a faire
" face*."
The late ingenious the reverend Mr. Michael
Tyson, made me a present of an etching of thisr
unfortunate fair, from the original in the pro
vost's lodgings, in King's college, Cambridge.
Her hair is curled in short curls high above
her neck,, and mixed with chains of jewels set
in a lozenge form : her neck and body, as far
beneath her arms, are naked ; the first has two
strings of pearls hanging loose round it : over
her shoulders is a rich chain of jewels set in
circles, and pendant from, the middle, which
hatags down her breast, is a rich lozenge of
jewelst, and to each link is affixed one or more
pearls. In her countenance is no appearance of
charms; she must have attracted the hearts of
her lovers by her intellectual beauties.
For my part, I entertain doubts as to the
authenticity of this portrait; but none, of that
beautiful engraving given in Mr. Harding's
Illustrations of Shakespear by prints, No. IV.
The lady there represented is in the dress of the
sixteenth century : of the times of Henry VIII.
and his successors, to the end of the reign of
* Holinshed, 724.

PROSTITUTE PREACHERS. 159
Elizabeth. The famous picture of Mary
Stuart, by Zucchero, at Chiswick-house, is
exactly in this habit. Many more similar may
be found among the English portraits; and
among the French, cotemporary to the periods
I mention. Under her cruel prosecutor, this pulpit-crqss
became the seat of prostituted eloquence. The
usurper made use of doctor Shaw, brother to
his creature the lord mayor, and friar Pinke,
an Augustine, (both, says Stow, doctors of
divinity, both great ' preachers, both of more
learning than virtue) as his engines. They
addressed the people, and inferred the bastardy
of his brother's children, and enlarged on the
great qualities of their ambitious employers.
But Pinke lost his voice in the middle of his
sermon, and was forced to descend: and Shaw
was* afterwards struck with such remorse,
finding himself despised by all the world, that
he soon after died of a broken heart*.
Royal contracts of marriage were notified to
the people from this place* Thus, that between
Margaret, daughter of Henry VII. and James
the I Vth of Scotland, was here declared in
* See Fabian, 515. Holinshed, 725. Stow's Annals, 451.

160 NOTABLE TRANSACTIONS
1501 ; Te Deum was sung, twelve bonfires set
a blazing, and twelve hogsheads of Gascoigne
wine given to the populace*.
But the most famous preachments ever mad*
here, were those done by order of Henry VIII.
who compelled the bishop of London to send
up to Paul's Cross from Sonday to Sonday,
preachers to preach down the pope's authority;
to show to the people that he was no more than
the simple bishop of Rome, and that his usur
pations were only the effect of the negligence
of the prince? of this realm f. And thus his
holiness 's bulls were fairly baited out of the
kingdom by his own dogs.
From this pulpit was proclaimed to the peo
ple, by Henry Holbetch, bishop of Rochester,
the death-bed remorse of the same tyrant; who,
finding the stroke inevitable, he ordered the
church of the Grey Friars, which he had con
verted into a store-house, to be cleared of the
goods, and opened for divine service, and pre-.
sented by patent to the city, for the relieTing
of thepoorj.
Many are the examples of persons bearing
* Stow's Annals, 483.
f Weever's Funeral Monuments, 91, 92.
X Stow's Smvaie, 591.

AT PAUL'S CROSS. 161
the faggot, and of making public recantation
of their faith, of both religions, at this place.
The reformers bore that badge as a mark of
their escape: the Catholics were excused, from
the burning, therefore were excused from the
burden. The last who appeared, was a semi
nary priest, who, in 1593, made his recantation.
In 1537, sir Thomas Newman, priest, bore the
faggot here on a singular occasion, for singing
mass with good ale. To this place Henry
Grey, duke of Suffolk, sent his chaplain, Hard
ing, to dissuade the people from revolting from
their allegiance to queen Mary*: yet, actuated
by weakness and ambition, concurred in setting
up his unhappy daughter, Jane Grey, in oppo-*
sition to his rightful sovereign.
We are told in Strype's Memorials, III. 21,
that queen Mary made use of the same arts in
the same place, and appointed several of her
best divines to preach the old religion, and her
design of restoring the ancient worship : but so
averse were the people, that the attempt was .
attended with great tumults. These she allayed
by the temporary expedients of fire and faggot.
The reign of queen Elizabeth was wisely
'. ¦* * Fox's Martyrs.
VOL. II. M

162 NOTABLE TRANSACTIONS
ushered in by the appointment of good and
able men to preach from this Cross the doctrine
of the Reformation, and rejection of the Papal
power*; in which politics were naturally in
termixed. This began April the 9th, 1559,
with doctor Bill, the queen's almoner; he was
followed by Grindal, Horn, Jewel, Sandys, and
many others, who soon after enjoyed the highest
dignities in our church.
The same,heroine, giving way to a most un
generous passion, caused from this pulpit the
memory of her once-beloved Essex to be black
ened; to suffer "the indignity of a. sermon at
" Paul's Cross, set out in command. Some
" sparks of indignation remaining in the queen,
" that were unquenched even by his blood f."
It was more worthily employed, when her
majesty caused from thence a sermon of thanks
giving to Providence, in 1588, for the signal
deliverance her subjects received from the in
vincible armada of Philip II,
After the battle of St. Quintin, her prede
cessor, queen Mary, caused doctor Harpsfield
to preach a sermon, and from this Cross to give
the people information of the victory gained by
* Strype's Annals, i. 133.
t Wotton's Remains, edit. 3d, p. 193.

at paul's cross. 163
the general of her husband, Philip of Spain,
over the French, and of the succeeding capture
of St. Quintin; before which that monarch,
the only time in his life, appeared clad in
armour. In 1596, while the lord mayor and aldermen
were attending a sermon at this place, they
received an order from the queen, to levy a
thousand able-bodied men. They quitted their
devotions, and performed their commission be
fore eight at night, and had them ready armed
for their march before morning. The service
they were designed for was to assist the French
in raising the siege of Calais, then besieged by
the Spaniards; but the place being taken by
the time they reached Dover, they returned to
the city, after a week's absence. From the
usual policy of Elizabeth, it is possible the
sermon and order were both preconcerted; the
moment of devotion being the aptest to inspire
zeal, and promote an enthusiastic ardor in the
people to fly to a standard raised against a
nation so detested, and so inimical to our reli
gion and liberties, as the Spaniards.
The last sermon which was preached at this
place, was before James I. who came in great
state on horseback from Whitehall, On Midlent
h 2

161 SPIRE OF ST. PAUL'S BURNT."
Sunday, 1620: he was received at Temple-bar
by the lord mayor and aldermen, who presented
him with' a purse of gold. At St. Paul's he
was received by the clergy in their richest vest
ments. Divine service was performed, attended
with organs, cornets, andsagbots; after which
his majesty went to a prepared place, and heard
a sermon at the Cross, preached by John King,
bishop of London. The object of the sermon
was the repairing of the cathedral. The king
and the principal persons retired from the Cross
¦ to the bishop's palace, to consult on the matter,
and, after a magnificent banquet, the court
returned to Whitehall*.
I will not mention the different misfortunes
this cathedral experienced, except the last,
previous to its final destruction by the great
fire. In 1561, the noble spire was totally burnt
by lightning, or, as others say, by the carelessness
of a workman, who made a confession of it on
his death-bed, and never restored. This cir
cumstance shows the date of 1560, to Aggas's
famous survey of London, to have been errone
ous: he having given the church without the
spire; which he never could have omitted, had
it existed at that time.
* Stow's Annals, 1033. Hist. London, I. book iii. 15K

st, Paul's repaired. 165
In consequence of the resolutions taken in
>20, by James I. to repair the cathedral, the
celebrated Inigo Jones was appointed to the
work.' But it was not attempted till the year
16 >3, when Laud laid the first stone, and Inigo
the fourth. That great architect begun with
a most notorious impropriety, giving to the
west end, a portico jjf^the Corinthian order
'(beautiful indeed) to this ancient Gothic pile*;
and to the ends of the two transepts Gothic
'fronts in a most horrible style. The great' fire
made way for the restoring of this magnificent
pile by sir Christopher Wren, surveyor-general
of his majesty's'works, an architect worthy of
so great a design. I will not attempt to de
scribe so well-known a building ; the descrip
tion is well done in several books easy to be
hadf. Sir Christopher made a model in wood
of his first conception for re-building this
church, in the Roman style. He had in it an
eye te: the loss of the pulpit-cross, and had
supplied its place by a magnificent auditory
* Parentalia, -273. ' - ,:Jr-'^0,: *' '-'
+ Lohdori and its Environs described, in 6 vols. 8vo. 176l
--Stranger's Guide through London, duod. 1786 — Besides
'She larger works, such as, Wren's Parentalia — Maitland's
London — Strype's edition of Stow, &c. '

166 st. paul's re-built.
within, for the reception of a large congrega
tion. This was approved by men of excellent
judgment, but laid aside, under the notion it
had not sufficiently a temple-like form. A
second was made, selected oot of various
sketches he had drav/n ; on this design sir
Christopher set a high value: but this was also
rejected*. The third, which produced the
present noble pile, was approved and executed.
A singular accident happened at the beginning:
while the great architect was setting out the
dimensions of the dome, he ordered a common
labourer to bring him a flat stone, to be laid as
a direction to the masons ; he brought a frag-
went of a gravestone, on which was the word
resurgam. This was not lost on sir Christo
pher ; he caught the idea of the Phoenix,
which he placed on the south portico, with
that word cut beneath.
The first stone was laid on June 21, 1675;
and the building was completed by him in
17 lOrf- ; but the whole decorations were not
finished till 1723J. It was a most singular
circumstance, that notwithstanding it was
thirty-five years in building, it was begun and
* Parentalia, 282. t The same, 292. J Maitland, ii.

ST. PAUL'S AND ST. PETER'S. 167
finished by one architect, and under one pre
late, Henry Compton, bishop of London. The
church of St. Peter's was a hundred and thir
ty-five years in building, in the reigns of nine
teen popes, and went through the hands of
twelve architects. It is not, as often mistaken,
built after the model of that famous temple : it
is the entire conception of our great country
man ; and has been preferred in some respects,
by a judicious writer, to even the Roman Ba
silica. Its dimensions are less. The compa
rative view is given in the Parentalia, and co
pied in London and its Environs.-— I will only
mention the great outlines : the height of St.
Peter's, to the top of the cross, is four hundred
and thirty -seven feet and a half; that of St
Paul's, three hundred and forty feet : so that,
from its situation, it is lofty enough to be seen
from the sea. The length of the first, is seven
hundred and twenty-nine feet ; of the latter,
five hundred. The greatest breadth of St.
Peter's is three hundred and sixty-four ; of St.
Paul's, one hundred and eighty. I am "sorry
to relate that our great architect, to whom our
capital was so highly indebted, was, in 1718,
dismissed at the age of ninety, from his employ
( which he had for the space of fifty years most

168 LUDICROUS DESCRIPTION.
honorably discharged ) in favor of Mr. Benson,
whose demerits became S*oon so apparent, as to
occasion his almost immediate removal.
For the honor of our kingdom, it must be
told, that no less than 126,604L 6s. bd. was
collected, in various parts, between the year
\66d and 1685, first towards the repair, and
afterwards towards the re-building the fabric :
the far greater part of which was contributed
by the venerable and worthy clergy of that
period. In the reigns of James I. and Charles I. the
body of this cathedral was the common resort
of the politicians, the news-mongers, and idle
in general. It was called Paul's walk, and
the frequenters known by the name of Paul's
^walkers. It is mentioned in the old plays, and
other books of the times. The following droll
description may possibly give some amusement
to the reader :
" It is the land's epitome, or you may call
" it the lesser ile of Great Brittaine. It is
" more than this, the whole world's map,
f which you may here discerne in its perfect'st
" motion, justling and turning. It is a heap
" of stones and men, with a vast confusion of
' languages ; and, were the steeple not sane-

LUDICROUS DESCRIPTION. 169
" tified, nothing liker Babel. The noyse in it
<e is like that of bees, a strange humming or
*' buzze, ,mixt of walking, tongues, and feet.
" It is a kind of still roare, or loud whisper.
" It is the great exchange of all discourse, and
" no busines whatsoever but is here stirring
" and a foot. It is the synod of all pates
" politicke, joynted and laid together in the
" most serious posture ; and they are not. halfe
" so busie at the parliament. It is the anticke
" of tailes to tailes, and backes to backes; and
" for vizards, you need goe no further than
" faces. It is the market of young lecturers,
" whom you may cheapen here at all rates and
" sizes. It is the generall mint of all famous
" lies, which are here, like the legends popery.
" first coyn'd and stampt in the church. All
" inventions are emptyed here, and not few
" pockets. The best signe of a temple in it is,
" that it is the theeves sanctuary, which robbe
" more safely in the croud then a wildernesse,
" whilst every searcher is a bush to hide them.
" It is the other expence of the day, after
'' playes, taverne, and a baudy house, and
f men have still some oathes left to sweare
" here. It is the eare's brothell, and satisfies
" their lust and ytch. The visitants are all

170 IRONY ON QUEEN ANNE-S STATUE.
" men, without exceptions ; but the principall
" inhabitants and possessors are stale knights,
" and captaines out of service; men of long
" rapiers and breeches, which after all turne
*' merchants here, and trafficke for newes.
" Some make it a preface to their dinner, and
" travell for a stomacke: but thriftier men
" make it their ordinarie, and boord here verie
" cheape. Of all such places it is least haunt-
" ed with hobgoblins, for if a ghost would
" walke, move he could not*."
The statue of queen Anne, of white marble,
with the figures of Britain, France, Ireland,
and America at the base, is placed before the
western front. This rose from the chizzel of
Francis Bird, as did the conversion of St. Paul
in the pediment, and the bas-reliefs under the
porticof. Let the fine iroay of sir Samuel
Garth, whose spirit lay dormant till it rose in
later days wrapped in the sheets of the eloquent
Junius, conclude all I have said of this ma
jestic pile.
Near the vast bulk of that stupendous frame
Known by the Gentiles great Apostle's name,
* Microcosmographie, 162S.
T Anecdotes of Painting, iii. 150.

IRONY ON QUEEN ANNE's STATUE. 171
With grace divine, great Anna's seen to rise,
An awful form that glads a nation's eyes:
Beneath her feet four mighty realms appear,
And with due reverence pay their homage there.
Britain and Ireland seem to own her "race,
And ev'n wild India wears a smiling face.
But France alone with downcast eyes is seen.
The sad attendant of so good a queen:
Ungrateful country ! to forget so soon
All that great Anna for thy sake has done:
When sworn the kind defender of thy cause,
Spite of her dear religion, spite of laws;
For thee she sheath'd the terrors of her sword,
For thee she broke her gen'ral— and her word :
For thee her mind in doubtful terms she told,
And learn'd to speak like oracles of old.
For thee, for thee alone, what cou'd she more ?
She lost the honor she had gain'd before ;
Lost all the trophies which her arms had won,
(Such Caesar never knew, nor Philip's son)
Itesign'd.the glories of a ten years reign,
And su-h as none but Marlborough's arm cou'd gain.
For thee in annals she's content to shine,
Like other monarchs of the Stuart line.
In digging the foundation for re-building this
cathedral, it was discovered, beneath the graves
mentioned at p. 15 of vol. I. that the founda
tion of the old church rested on a layer of hard
and close pot earth. Curiosity led -sir Chris
topher Wren to search farther. He found that

172 SITE OF ST. PAUL*S ONCE THE SEA.
on the north side it was six feet thick, that it
grew thinner towards. the south, and on the de
cline of the hill was scarcely four. On ad
vancing farther, he met with nothing but loose
sand; at length "he came to water and sand
mixed with periwinkles, and other sea-shells ;
and, by boring, came at last to the beach, and
under that the natural hard clay : which evinced
thatthesea had once occupied the space onwhich
St. Paul's now stands. This sand had been one
of those sand-hills frequent on ma.ij coasts, not
only on those of Holland and Flanders, but
on our own. It was the opinion of our great
architect, that all the space between Camber-
well hill and the hills of Essex had been a vast
bay, at low- water a sandy plain. All which
appears in some distant age to have been em
banked, possibly by the Romans*, who were
greatly employed in that useful work, paludi-
bus emuniendis.
To the south of this cathedral are the college
of Civilians, or Doctors Commons, the court
of arches, the court of delegates, and several
others, the great satellites of the church. The
court of arches took its name, curia de arcubus,
* Parentalia, 285.

HERALDS COLLEGE. 173
from having been once kept in Bow church,
Cheapside. With the downfall of the church
of Rome their powers decreased, and continued
decreasing as the rights of mankind became
better understood.
On Bennet-hill, adjacent to these courts, is
the College of Heralds, a foundation of great
antiquity, in which the records are kept. of all
the old blood.of the kingdom. In the warlike
times of our Henries and our Edwards, the
heralds were in full employ, and often sent
upon most dangerous services;' to hurl defiance
into the teeth -of irritated enemies, or to bring
to their duty profligate rebels. Sometimes it
has cost them their nose and ears, and some^
times their heads. At present they rest safe
from all harms : are often of great use in prov^
ing consanguinity, and helping people to sup
ply legal claims to estates ; and often are of
infinite use to our numerous children of fortune,
by furnishing them with a quantum sufficit of
good blood, and enabling them to strut in the
motley procession of gentility.
The house they occupy was built on the site
of Derby-house, a palace of the great family
of the Stanlies. It was built by the first earl,
father-in-law to Henry VII. who in it lived

174 HERALDS COLLEGE,
and died, as did his son George, the intended
victim to the rage of Richard III. before the
battle of Bosworth. Edward earl of Derby,
that prodigy of charity and hospitality*, ex
changed it with Edward VI. for certain lands
adjoining to his park at Knowsley, in Lanca
shire. Queen Mary presented it to Dethick,
garter king of arms, and his brother heralds,
to live in, and discharge the business of their
office f. This house was destroyed in the great
fire, but soon re-built. It is inhabited by se
veral of the heralds. J. C. Brooke, Esq.;
Somerset, must permit me to acknowledge his
frequent services and liberal communications.
In this neighbourhood, to the west, stood
the royal wardrobe, kept in a house built by
sir John Beauchamp, who made it his resi
dence. Tt was sold to Edward III. In the
fifth of Edward IV. it was given torWilliam
lord Hastings, and was afterwards called Hunt
ingdon-house, and became the lodging of
Richard III in his second year.
Adjacent to it (on the west) was Scrope's-
inn, in the 31st of Henry VI.
Cross Bennet-hill passes Knight^rider-street,
so named from the gallant train of knights who
* Stow'* Suxvaie, 133. f Collins's Peerage, ii, 53— Stow, 694.

the king's exchange; 175
were wont to pass this way, in the days of
chivalry, from the Tower Royal to the gay
tournaments at Smithfield. From hence I pass
to the King's Exchange, or the Old Change,
a street parallel to the east side of St. Paul's
church-yard, which crosses the Roman road, or
Watling-street, and terminates close to the
west end of Cheapside. This was the seat of
the king's exchanger, who delivered out to
the other exchangers, through the kingdom,
their coining irons, and received them again
when worn out, with an account of the sums
coined : neither was any body to make change
of plate, or other mass of silver, unless at this
place*. To the east of Knight-rider-street, on the
south side of Basing-lane, stood the mansion
of sir JohnGisors, mayor of London, and con
stable of the Tower in 1311.. In the turbulent
time of Edward II. he was charged with seve
ral harsh and unjust proceedings, and, being
summoned to appear before the king's justices,
to answer to the accusation, he, and other
principal citizens, fled, and put themselves un
der the protection of the rebellious barons. His
house was built upon arched vaults, and had.
* Stow's Survaie, 609, 610.

176 GISORS'-HALL.
arched gates made of stone brought from Caen.
In the lofty roofed hall, says Stow, in his Sur-
vaie, p. 665, stood a large fir-pole, near forty
feet high, which was feigned to have been the
staff of Gerardus, a mighty giant : which prov
ed to be no more than a May-pole, which, ac
cording to ancient custom, used to be decked,
and placed annually before the door. From
this fable the house long bore the name of Ge-X
rard's-hall, but it was properly changed to
that of Gisors. It remained in the family till
the year 1386, when it was alienated by Tho
mas Gisors. The house was divided into seve-,
ral parts, and in the time of Stow was a com
mon hosterie, or inn. At present nothing re
mains but the vault, which serves as cellars to
the houses built on the site of the old mansion.
In the same street was Ormond-place, be
longing to the Botelers. In the 5th of Ed
ward IV. it was given to the queen; but in
1515 it was restored to the Botelers.
In this street stood the College of Physicians,
till it was destroyed by the great fire: it was
founded by the ornament of his age, doctor
Linacre, the greatest and most general scholar
of the time. He lived in this" street, and left
his house to the public, for the use of his in-

CHEAPSIDE. 177
stitution. He was appointed by Henry VII.
physician to prince Arthur, and also his tutor.
He was besides physician to that monarch, and
Henry VIII.; and died in 1524, an honour to
, our country. He had travelled much, and
was particularly respected by the reigning duke
of Tuscany, (the politest scholar of his days*),
and Other foreigners ; and met at home with a
return suitable to bis merit.
Cheapside received its name from Chepe, a
market, as being originally the great street of
splendid shops. In the year 1246 it was an
open field, called Crown-field, from an hosterie,
or inn, with the sign of a crown, at the east
end. " At the same period, 'K adds Stow, at
p. 187 of his Chronicle, "nor two hundred,
" years after, was any street in London paved,
" except Thames-street, and from Ludgate-
" hill to Charing-Cross." The goldsmiths'
shops were particularly superb, " consisting,"
says Stow, " of a most beautiful frame of faire
" houses and shops than be within the walls of
" London or elsewhere in England, commonly
" called Goldsmiths-row; builded by Thomas
" Wood, goldsmith, and one of the sheriffes
" of London in 1491. It contained tenne faire
" dwelling houses, and fourteen shops, all in
VOL. II.' n

178 goldsmiths' hall.
" one frame, uniformely builded foure stories
" high, beautified toward the street with the
" goldsmithes arms, and likeness of woodmen,
" in memorie of his name, riding on monstrous
" beasts, all richly painted and gilt*."
In Foster-lane, which opens into the west
end of this street, stands the ball of this opu
lent company. In the court-room is a fine
portrait of sir Hugh Myddelton, with a shell
by him, out of which he may be supposed t.o
have poured the useful element to the thirsting
metropolis. The words Pontes Fondinte are
painted on the picture, to imply his double at
tentions. The wealth he got in the mines was
totally exhausted in the execution of his pro
ject, of which the metropolis, to this moment,
receives increasing benefit. Sir Hugh left a
share in the New River to this company, for
the benefit of the decayed members; which,
even in 1704, amounted to 134Z.
Here is a good portrait of sir Martin Bowes,
lord mayor in 1545, with his chain and robes of
office. The date of his picture is 1566.
St. Dunstan appears here in canvas, in a
rich robe, and with his crosier. The unfor-
* Stow's Survaie, 660.

THE GOLDSMITHS* company. 179
tunate devil is not forgotten, roaring between
the pincers of the saint; with the heavenly host
above, applauding the deed. It seems by this
that St. Dunstan amused himself in works of
gold as well as iron: so that it is no wonder to
see the evil spirit in a place where the irrita-
menta malorum so much abound.
Queen Elizabeth presented this company
with a silver cup, out of which annual libations
are made to her memory. She was particu
larly kind to the citizens, and borrowed money
of them on all occasions. The goldsmiths
miist.of course enjoy a distinguished place in
her esteem.
This company appeared as a fraternity as
early as 1180, being then amerced for being
adulterine, or for setting up without the king's
licence. In the reign of Edward III. they ob
tained a patent, and were incorporated for the
sum of ten marks. Richard II. confirmed the
same, in consideration of the sum of twenty
marks. They increased in wealth, and have
left evident marks of charity, by having above
a thousand pounds a-year to dispose of for
benevolent purposes. They became in time the
bankers of the capital. The Lombards were
the first and the greatest, and most of the
n2

180 GOLDSMITHS THE ANCIENT BANKERS,
\ money contracts in old times passed through
their hands. Many of our monarchs were
obliged to them for money. They did not
seem to like trusting Henry IV. on his bond,
so took the customs in pawn for their loan.
The business of goldsmiths was confined to
the buying and selling of plate, and foreign
coins of gold and silver, melting them, and
coining others at the- mint. The banking was
accidental, and foreign to their institution.
Regular banking by private people resulted,
in 1643, from the calamity of the time, when
the seditious spirit was incited by the arts of
the parliamentary leaders. The merchants and
tradesmen, who before trusted their cash to
their servants and apprentices, found that no
longer safe; vneither did they dare to leave it in
the mint at the Tower, by reason of the dis
tresses of majesty itself, which before was a
place of public deposit. In the year 1645 they
began to place it in the hands of goldsmiths,
when they first began publicly to exercise both
professions. Even in my days were several
very eminent bankers, who kept the goldsmith's
shop : but they were more frequently separated.
The first regular banker was Mr. Franeis Child,
goldsmith, who began business soon after the

GQLDSMITHS THE ANCIENT BANKERS. 181
Restoration. He was the father of the pro
fession, a person of large fortune and most re
spectable character. He married, between the
years 1665 and 1675, Martha, only daughter of
Robert Blanchard, citizen and goldsmith, by
whom he had twelve children. Mr. Child was
afterwards knighted. He lived in Fleet-street,
where the shop still continues*, in a state of the
highest respectability. Mr. Granger f men
tions Mr, Child as successor to the shop of <
alderman Backwel, a banker in the time of
Charles -II. noted, for his integrity, abilities,
and industry; who was ruined by the shutting
up of the exchequer in 1672. His books were
, placed in the hands of Mr. Child, and still re
main in the family.
The next ancient shop was that possessed at
present by Messrs. Snow and Denne, a few
doors to the west of Mr. Child's; who were
goldsmiths of consequence in the latter part of
the same reign. To the west of Temple Bar,
the only one was that of Messrs. Middleton and
Campbel, goldsmiths, who flourished in 1692,
and is now continued, with great credit, by
* For these particulars I am obliged to the civility of Mr.
Dent, partner in this great shop.
t Vol. iii. 410.

182 ST. martin's le grand,
Mr. Coutts. From thence to the extremity of
the western end of the town, there was none
till the year 1756, when the respectable name
of Backwel* rose again, conjoined to those of
Darel, Hart, and Croft, who with great reputa-r
tion opened their shop in Pall-mall.
Foster-lane bounds on the east that remark*
able place, St. Martin's Le Grand: imperium
in imperio: surrounded by the city, yet subject,
near three centuries, to the governing powers
of Westminster Abbey. A large and fair
college was founded, A. D. 700, by Wythred
king of Kent; and re-built and chiefly endowed
by two noble Saxon brothers, Ingelric and
Edward, about the year 1056. William the
Conqueror confirmed it in 1068, and even made
it independent of every other ecclesiastical juris
diction, from the regal and even the papal f.
It was governed by a dean, and had a number
of secular canons. Succeeding monarchs con
firmed all_ its privileges. It had Sak,^ Sok,
Tol, and all the long list of Saxon indulgences,
* Of the same family with the great Mr. Backwel. He
favoured me with a beautiful print of his worthy relation,
ivhich had been engraven in Holland, after his flight from his
profligate country.
f Newconrt's Repertorium, i. 424, &c, .

ANCIENTLY A SANCTUARY. 183
enumerated by the accurate Strype*. It had
also from the beginning the dreadful privilege
of sanctuary, which was the cause of its being
the resort of every species of profligates, from
the murderer to the pick-pocket ; and was most
tenaciously vindicated by its holy rulers. In
1439 a soldier, who for some crime was con
ducted from Newgate towards Guildhall, was
rescued by five fellows who rushed out of
Panyer-alley, and who fled with him into the
adjacent sanctuary. The sheriffs of that year,
Philip Malpas and Robert Marshall, entered
the church, and seizing on the soldier and other
ruffians, carried them chained to Newgate*.
The dean and chapter complained of this breach
of privilege: the cause was heard, and the
sheriffs were obliged to deliver the men into
the sanctuary. But in 1457 the king thought
proper to regulate these privileges, and to dis
tinguish how far they might be protected ;
and that the dean and chapter should take care
that none of the villanous refugees should be
come further noxious to their fellow-crea
tures J.
A magnificent church was erected within this
jurisdiction, which was continued till the col-
* Strype's Stow, i. book iii. 107. t Ibid. 103.
J The same, i. book iii.

184 CURFEW BELL.
lege was surrendered, in 1548, when it was
pulled down, and a great tavern erected in the
place. St. Martin's Le Grand was then, and
still continues, under the government of the dean
of Westminster. It was granted to that mo
nastery by Henry VII. It still continues inde
pendent of the city: numbers of mechanics,
(particularly taylors and shoemakers), set up
there, and exercise their trades within its limits,
and have vpte for the members of the borough
of Westminster. The dean and chapter have
a court here, and a prison: and, I think, all
processes to be executed within this liberty,
are to be directed, by the sheriffs of London,
to the constable of the dean and chapter of
Westminster. J?. 4
This church, with those of Bow, St. Giles's
Cripplegate, and Barkin, had its Curfew bell
long after the servile injunction laid on the
Londoners had ceased. These were sounded to
give notice to the inhabitants of those districts
to keep within, and not to wander in the streets :
which were infested by a set of ruffians, who
made a practice of insulting, wounding, rob
bing, and murdering the people, whom they
happened to mept abroad during night*.
* Strype's Stow, i. book iii. 106.

NOBILITY DESCENDED FROM CITIZENS'. 185
The view we have of Cheapside, as it ap
peared just before the great fire, shows that it
was spacious and beautiful. The cross and
conduit are to be seen ; and the long row of
shops, which projected from the houses, reached
to the bottom of the first floors, and were
lighted by windows in the roofs. This shows
the ancient forms of building our more magni
ficent streets. On the south side stands the
church of St. Mary le Boxv, or de arcubus,1
because it originally was built upon arches.
It perished in 1666, and was re-built after a
design of sir Christopher Wren's. I cannot
express myself better than in the words of an
ingenious writer, who calls it " a delightful
" absurdity*." In this church was interred
sir John Coventry, mercer, lord mayor in 1425,
and ancestor and founder of the family of the
earl of Coventry. I beg leave here to remind
several other noble! peers of their industrious
and honest forefathers.^
John Coventry^ son of William Coventry, of
the city of that name, was an opulent mercer of
the city of London, and mayor in 1425: a most
.spirited magistrate, who dared to interfere in
* Critical Review, &c. 39.

186 NOBILITY DESCENDED FROM CITIZENS.
the dreadful quarrel between Humphrey duke
of Glocester and the insolent cardinal Beaufort,
which he successfully quelled. From his loins
is descended the present earl of Coventr}'.
The family of Rich, earls of Warwick and
Holland, arose from Richard Rich, an -opulent
mercer, sheriff in the year 1441 . His descen
dant Richard was distinguished by his know
ledge of the law : became solicitor-general in
the reign of Henry ; and treacherously effected
the ruin of sir Thomas More: was created a
baron of the realm in the reign of Edward VI.
and became lord chancellor by the favour of
the same monarch.
The Hollis's, earls of Clare, and afterwards
dukes of Newcastle, sprung from sir William
Holies, mayor in 1540, son to William Holies,
citizen and baker: his great grandson was the
first who was called to the house of peers, in
the reign of James 1. by the title of lord
Houghton, and soon after was advanced to the
dignity of earl of Clare. The fourth of that
title was created, by king William, duke of
Newcastle; but the title became extinct in his
name in 1711.
Sir Thomas Leigh, mayor in 1558, furnished
the peerage with the addition of two. He

NOBILITY DESCENDED FROM CITIZENS. 187
was son to Roger Leigh, of Wellington, Shrop
shire. Sir Thomas's grandson, Francis, was
created by Charles I. lord Dunsmore, and
afterwards earl of Chichester ; and sir Thomas's
second son, sir Thomas Leigh, of Stonely, had
the honour of being called to the house of peers
by the same monarch, by the title of lord Leigh
of Stonely. The Pleydel-Bouvieries, earls of Radnor,
descend from Edward des Bouverie, who died
an opulent Turkey- merchant in 1694.
Ducie, lord Ducie de Morton, is descended
from sir Robert Ducie, baronet, sheriff in 1620,
and mayor in 1631. He became banker to
Charles I. and, on the breaking out of the civil
war, lost 80,000/. owing by his majesty. Yet
is said to have left behind him 400,000/. So
profitable, in all ages, are to individuals, the
calamities of war.
Paul Banning, sheriff in 1593, had a son of
the same name, who was first created a baronet,
and in the third of Charles I. a baron of this
realm, by the title of baron Banning; and soon
after a viscount, by the title of baron Banning of
Sudbury. He was buried in the paternal tomb,
in the church of St. Olave's. His house was
in Mark-lane: after the fire of London, the

188 NOBILITY DESCENDED FROM CITIZENS.
business of the custom-house being transacted
in that which went under the name of lord
Banning's*. The Cranfields, earls of Middlesex, rose
from Lionel Cranfield, a citizen of London,
bred up in the custom-house f . He became in
1620, lord treasurer of England. The duke
of Dorset is descended from Frances, sister and
heir to the third earl of Middlesex, married to
Richard earl of Dorset.
The noble family of Ingram, viscount Irwin,
were raised, in the reign of queen Elizabeth,
by Hugh Irwin, citizen, merchant, and tallow-
chandler, who died in 1612. He left a large
fortune between two sons; of which sir Arthur,
the younger, settled in Yorkshire, and purchased
a considerable estate, the foundation tyf the
great fortune at present enjoyed by the family.
Sir Stephen Brown, son of John Brown of
.Newcastle, mayor in 1438, _and again in 1448,
was a grocer; and gave to us another peer, in
the person of sir Anthony Brown, created vis
count Mountague by Philip and Mary, in 1554.
The Legges. rose to *be earls of Dartmouth.
V
* City Remembrancer, ii. 28.— The name is often spelt
Bayning. + Kennet, ii. 727-

NOBILITY PESCENDED FROM CITIZENS. 189
The first who was nobilitated was that loyal
and gallant sea-officer George Legge, created
baron of Dartmouth in 1682. He was descended
from an ancestor of one of the above-mentioned
names, who filled the praetorian chair of Lon
don in the years 1347 and 1354, having, by his
industry in the trade of a skinner, attained to
great wealth.
Sir Geffry Bullen, mayor in 1458, was grand
father to Thomas earl of Wiltshire, father of
Anna Bullen, and grandfather to queen Eliza
beth; the! highest genealogical honour the city
ever possessed.
Sir Baptist Hicks was a great mercer at the
accession of James I. and made a vast fortune
by supplying the court with silks. He- was
first knighted, afterwards i created viscount
Cambden. It is said he left his two daughters
a hundred thousand pounds a-piece. He built a
large house in St. John's-street, for the Justices
of Middlesex to hold their sessions, which (till
its demolition a very few years ago, upon the
erection of a new sessions-house on Clerkenwell
Green) retained the name of Hicks's Hall.
The Capels, earls of Essex, are descended
from sir William Capel, draper, mayor in 1503.
He first set up a cage in every ward, for the
punishment of idle people.

19Q NOBILITY DESCENDED FROM CITIZENS.
Michael Dormer, mercer, mayor in 1542y
produced the future lord Dormers.
Eflward Osborne, by his fortunate leap, as
before related, when apprentice to sir William
Hewet, attained in consequence great wealth
and honours. He was mayor in 1583; and
from his loins sprung the dukes of Leeds.
From sir William Craven, merchant-taylor,
mayor in 1611, sprung the gallant earl Craven,
who was his eldest son, and was greatly distin
guished by his actions in the service of the un
fortunate Elector Palatine, by his attachment
to the dowager, and his marriage with that
illustrious princess.
Lord viscount Dudley and Ward is de
scended from William Ward, a wealthy gold
smith in London, and jeweller to Henrietta
Maria, queen to Charles I. His son, Humble
Ward, married Frances, grand-daughter of
Edward Sutton, lord Dudley, on the death of
her grandfather baroness of Dudley; and he
himself created,' in 1643, lord Ward, of Bir
mingham. The old church of Bow was founded in the
time of William the Conqueror ; we have before
given the origin of the name, which was from
the arches of the foundation, not of the steeple,

FITZ-OSBERT. 191
which was re-built with arches, or in a crown
fashion, but not till long after the year 1512*.
This had long been a noted sanctuary, and was
one of those which Henry VIII. in his 32d
year, exempted from suppression. In this tower,
in 1196, one William Fitz-Osbert, alias Long
Beard, a seditious fellow of uncommon elo
quence, but of the lowest rank, set up as advo
cate for the poorer citizens against the oppres
sions of the rich. He took opportunity of be
ginning a tumult by inflaming their minds
against a certain tax, raised entirely for the ne
cessities of the state. Many lives were lost on
the occasion, at St. Paul's. Hubert, the great
justiciary, summoned Long Beard to appear
before him ; but found him so well supported,
that he thought it prudent to forbear punish
ment. This served but to increase his inso
lence. He grew so outrageous, that the citizens
were resolved to bring him to justice: a resolute
band made the attempt, when he and a few des
perate fellows fled to the tower of Bow steeple,
which they fortified. The besiegers, seeing the
mob assemble from all parts to his rescue, made
a fire at the bottom, which forced him and his
* Newcourt's Repertorium, i. 437.

192 THE CROSS.
companions to sally out; but they were takeOy
and the next day he and eight more were dragged
by their heels to the. Elms at Smithfield, and
there hanged. Long after those days the hur
dle, or the sledge, were permitted, as a sort Of
indulgence to the wretched sufferers*. It was
said, that finding himself deserted by Heaven,
he at the gallows " forsook Mary's Son ( as he
" calledourSAVlouR),and called upon the Devil
" to helpe and deliver him." Yet, notwithstand
ing this, a cunning priest, a relation of hiSi stole
his body, and pretended many miracles, were '
wrought at the place of execution ; and many
persons passed the night on the spot which de
prived them of a martyr, who died supporting,
the majesty of* the people, as Thomas Becket
did that of the pope.
In the middle of the street, a little to the
west of the church, stood the cross and the con
duit. The first was one of the affectionate
tokens of Edward I. towards his queen Elinor,
built where her body rested in its way to inter-*
ment, in 1290. It had originally the statue of
the queen, and in all respects resenrbling that
at Northampton ; at length', falling to decay, it
Blackstone's Comin.

DEMOLITION OF THE CROSS. 193
wasre-built, in 1441, by John Hutherby, mayor
of the city> at the expence of several of the citi
zens. It was ornamented with various images,
such as that of the Resurrection, of the Virgin,
of Edward the Confessor, and the like. At
every public entry it was new gilt, for the mag
nificent processions tookthis road. After the
Reformation, the images gave much offence ;
the goddess Diana was substituted instead of
the Virgin, after the symbols of superstition
had been frequently mutilated. Queen Eliza
beth disapproved of those attacks on the rem
nants of the old religion, and offered a large re
ward for the discovery of the offenders. She
thought that a plain cross, the mark of the reli
gion of the country, ought not to be the occa
sion of any scandal ; so directed that one should
be placed on the summit, and gilt*. Super
stition is certain, in course of time, to take the
other extreme, In the year 1643, the parlia
ment voted the taking down of all crosses, and
the demolishing of all popish paintings, &c.
The destruction of this cross was committed to
sir Robert Harlow; who went on the service
with true zeal, attended by a troop of horse
* Stow's Survaie, 485.
VOL.11. °

194 STORY OF AN
and two companies of foot, and executed his
orders most effectually. The same most pious
and religious noble knight did also attack and
demolish " the abominable and most blasphe
mous crucifix" in Christ's hospital, and broke
it into a thousand pieces *., In short, such
was the rage of the times against the sign of
our religion, that it was not suffered in shop-
books, or even in the primers of children f ; and
as to the cross used in baptism, it became the
abomination of abominations.
And some against all idolizing,
The Cross in shop-books, and baptizing.
The Nag's-head tavern, almost opposite to
the cross, was the fictitious scene of consecra
tion of the protestant bishops, at the accession
of queen Elizabeth, in 1559. It was pre
tended by the adversaries of our religion, that
a certain number of ecclesiastics, in hurry to
take possession* of the vacant sees, assembled
here, where they were to undergo the ceremony
from Anthony Kitchen, alias Dustan, bishop
* Vicar's Parliamentary Chron. l6"46", p. 290.
t Gray's Hudibras, ii. 253, note.— Consult also the note to
L'Hist. de l'Entree de la Reyne Mere, printed for W. Bowyer,
p. 28.

EPISCOPAL CONSECRATION. 195
of Llandaff, a sort of occasional conformist,
who had taken the oaths of supremacy to Eliza
beth. Bonner, bishop of London, (then con
fined in the Tower) hearing of it, sent his
chaplain to Kitchen, threatening him with ex
communication, in case he proceeded. On this
the prelate refused to perform the ceremony :
on which, say the catholics, Parker and the
other candidates, rather than defer possession of
their dioceses, determined to consecrate one
another : which, says the story, they did with
out any sort of scruple, and Scorey began with
Parker, who instantly rose archbishop of Can
terbury. The refutation of this tale may be
read in Strype's Life of archbishop Parker, at
p. 57, which makes it needless for me to enter
on the attempt. A view of the tavern, and its
sign, is preserved in a print in the Entre de la
Reyne Mere du Roy, or of Mary de Medicis,
when she visited our unfortunate monarch,
Charles I. and her daughter, his fair spouse.
In Laurence-lane, not far from hence, was
another public-house of much antiquity, and
which is still in great business as a carriers' inn;
the Blossoms Inn, so named from the rich
border of flowers which adorned the original
sign, that of St. Laurence. These were the
«2

196 TOURNAMENTS IN CHEAPSIDE.
effects of his martyrdom, " for (says the le-
" gend) flowers sprung up on the spot of his
" cruel martyrdom."
In this street, between the cross and Sopers-
lane, were held most splendid tournament's in
the year 1331 ; they began Sept. 21, and lasted
three days. A scaffold was erected for queen
Philippa and her gay troop of ladies, all most
richly attired, to behold the knights collected
from all quarters to show their skill in deeds of
arms. The upper part of the scaffold, on which
the ladies were seated, " brake in sunder, and,"
as Stow says, " whereby they were (with some
" shame) forced to fall downe;" and many
knights and others, which stood beneath, much
hurt. The carpenters were saved from punish
ment, by the intercession of the queen ; but, to
prevent such accidents in future, the king or
dered a building of stone to be erected, near
the church of St. Mary le Bow, for himself,
the queen, and " other states," to see the gal
lant spectacles in safety*. This was used long
after for the same purpose, even till the year
1410, when Henry IV. granted it to certain
mercers, who converted it into shops, ware
houses, and other requisites of their trade f.
* Stow's Survaie, 485. f The same, 467.

CONDUIT AND STANDARD. 197
A little to the east of the cross stood the con
duit, which served as the mother, or chief
aqueduct, which was to serve the lesser con
duits with water, brought. by pipes from Pad-
dington. This stood on the site of the old con
duit, founded in 1285, castellated with stone,
and cisterned in lead, as old Stow tells us; and
again re-built in 1479, by Thomas Ilan, one of
the sheriffs. On some very festive occasions
these conduits have been made to run with
claret. Such was the case at the coronation of
Anna Bullen; who was received at the lesser
conduit by Pallas, Juno, and Venus. Mercury,
in the name of the goddesses, presented to her
a ball of gold divided into three parts, signify
ing three gifts bestowed on her by the deities,
Wisdom, Riches, and Felicity. But, alas!
beneath them lurked speedy disgrace, impri
sonment, the block, and axe.
I cannot well fix the place where the old
standard in Cheap stood. The time of its
foundation is unknown, It appears to "have
been very ruinous in 1442, at which time Henry
VI. granted a licence for the repairing of it,
together with a conduit in the same. This was
a place at which executions, and other acts of
justice, were in old times frequently performed.

198 EXECUTIONS AT THE STANDARD.
Here, in 1293, three men had their heads cut
off, for rescuing a prisoner arrested by a city1
officer. In 1351, two fishmongers were be
headed at the standard, but their crime has not
reached us. In 1461, John Davy had his
hand struck off, for striking a man before the
judges at Westminster; and in 1399, Henry IV.
caused the blank charters made by Richard II.
to be burned here, as we do libels in our times.
But these were legal acts. Many sad in
stances of barbarous executions were done in
the fury of popular commotions. Richard
Lions, an eminent goldsmith, and late sheriff
of the city, was in 1381 (with several others)
cruelly beheaded here by order of Wat Tyler.
Lions was interred in the church of St. James,
Garlic-hith, and on his tomb (now lost) was
his figure in a long flowered gown, a large
purse hanging in a belt from tis shoulders, his
hair short, his beard forked, a plain hood
falling back and covering his shoulders. At
the same time numbers of foreign merchants,
especially Flemings, were dragged from the
churches, and, the Shibboleth* of bread and
cheese being put to them (which they pro-
* Judges, cbap. xii. ver. 6".

. ACCUSATION OF SORCERY. 199
nouncing brot and cawse) they were instantly
put to death. In 1450, lord Say, high trea
surer of England, lost his head at the standard,
by the brutality of John Cade. Shakespeare
admirably describes the tragic scene *-
Whether Walter Stapleton, bishop of Exeter,
suffered by the popular fury on this spot, is
rather uncertain; some imagine that he was
beheaded at a cross before the north door of
St. Paul's f; to which church he was flying for
refuge, and unfortunately seized by the mob
before he had taken sanctuary.
Through this street, and, probably to this
cross, in 1439, walked barefooted, with a taper
in her hand, Elinor Cobham, wife to Humphrey
duke of Glocester, charged with the crime of
sorcery, with intending the death of the king
by melting an image of wax, with. which his
body was to sympathize.
Limus ut hie durescit, et haec ut cera liquescit %.
A more serious fate attended her pretended
accomplices; a woman was burnt, and three
* Henry VI. part n. f Stew's Survaie, 483.
I In Virgil's time, applied to melt the hearts of the cruel
fair; afterwards, to waste the body of any hated person.

200 GUILDHALL.
men, among whom was her chaplain, were
hanged. In Bread-street, which opens into Cheapside,
stood the mansion of Edward Stafford, last earl
of Wiltshire; which, in 1499, he left to his
cousin the duke of Buckingham.
The Guildhall of this vast city stands at the
end of a street running northward from Cheap-
side. Before the year 1411, the court-hall, or
bury, as it was called, was held at Alderman's
bury, so denominated from their meeting there.
Stow remembered its ruins, and says, that in
his days it was used as Carpenters-hall. It
was succeeded, by a new one, begun in 1411,
and finished in twenty years, by voluntary con
tributions, by sums raised for pardons of of
fences, and by fines. Its Gothic front termi
nates the end of King-street. Its length is a
hundred and fifty- three feet; its breadth forty-
eight; its height fifty-five,; so that it is capable
of holding thousands of people. Elections, and
every species of city business, is transacted here.
Within are portraits of numbers of our
judges, who frequently try. causes under this
xoof. I must direct the reader's attention to
twelve of that order, of peculiar merit: these
are the portraits of the able and virtuous sir

^¦¦HMIfilill
"J""' "!""' '¦'  feS'iS!

I

Jt

PICTURES OF THE JUDGES. 201
Matthew Hale, and his eleven cotemporary
judges; who, after the dreadful calamity of
1666, regulated the re-building of the city of
London by such wise rules, as to prevent the
endless train of vexatious law-suits which might
ensue ; and been little less chargeable than the
fire itself had been. This was principally owing
to sir Matthew Hale, who conducted the busi
ness ; and sat with his brethren in Clifford's
Inn, to compose all differences between land
lord and tenant. These portraits were painted
by Michael Wright, a good painter in the time
of Charles II. and James II. and who died in
the year 1700. It was designed that sir Peter
Lely should draw these pictures, but he fasti
diously refused to wait on the judges at their
chambers. Wright received sixty pounds
a-piece for his work*. In the year 1779, they
were found to be in so bad a condition, as to
make it an even question with the committee of
city lands, whether they should be continued
in their places, or committed to the flames. To
the eternal honour of alderman Townsend, his
vote decided in favour of their preservation f.
He recommended Mr. Roma, (now unhappily
¦ * Anecdotes of Painting, iii. 40.
f London's Gratitude, &c. 19.

202 guildhall:
snatched from us by death), who, by his great
skill in repairing pictures, rescued them from
the rage of time: so that they may remain ano
ther century, a proof of the gratitude of our
capital. These were proofs of a sense of real
merit: but in how many places do we meet in
stances of a temporary idolatry, the phrenzy of
the day! Statues and portraits appear, to the
astonishment of posterity, purged from, the
prejudices of the time. i
The things themselves are neither scarce nor rare:
The wonder's, how the devil they got there !
Facing the entrance are two tremendous
figures, by some named Gog and Magog; by
Stow, an ancient Briton and Saxon. I leave to
others the important decision. At the bottom
of the room is a marble group, of good work
manship, (with London and Commerce whim
pering like two marred children), executed
soon after the year 1770, by Mr. Bacon. The
principal figure was also a giant, in his day,
the raw-head and bloody-bones to the good
folks at St. James's; which, while remon
strances were in fashion, annually haunted the
court in terrific forms. The eloquence dashed
in the, face of majesty, alas ! proved in vain,

GREAT FEASTS GIVEN THEREIN. 203
The spectre was there condemned to silence;
but his patriotism may be read by his admiring
fellow-citizens, as long as the melancholy mar
ble can retain the tale of the affrighted times.
The first time that this hall was used on fes
tive occasions, was by sir John Shaw, gold
smith, knighted in the field of Bosworth.
After building the. essentials of good kitchens
and other offices, in the year 1500 he gave here
the mayor's feast, which before had usually
been done in Grocers-hall. None of their bills
of fare have reached me, but doubtlessly they
were very magnificent. They at length grew
to such excess, that, in the time of Philip and
Mary, a sumptuary law was made to restrain
the expence both of provisions and liveries: but
I suspect, as it lessened the honour of the city,
it was not long observed; for in 1554, the city
thought proper to renew ihe order of council,
by way of reminding their fellow-citizens of
their relapse into luxury. Among the great
feasts given here on public occasions, may be
reckoned that given in 1612, on occasion of the
unhappy marriage of the prince Palatine with
Elizabeth, daughter of James I.; who, in de
fiance of the remonstrances of his better-judging
father-in-law, rushed on the usurpation of the
dominion of another monarch, and brought

204 BILL OF FARE FOR THE ENTERTAINMENT
great misery on himself and his amiable spouse.
The next was in 1641, when Charles I. returned
from his imprudent, inefficacious journey into
Scotland. In the midst of the most factious
and turbulent times, when every engine was
set to work to annihilate the regal power, the
city, under its lord mayor, sir William Acton,
made a feast unparalleled in history for its
magnificence. All external respect was payed
to his majesty; the last he ever experienced in
the inflamed city. Of the entertainment we
know no more, than that it consisted of five
hundred dishes. But of that which was given
in our happier days, to his present majesty, in
the mayoralty of sir Samuel Fludyer, the bill
of fare is given us. This I print; and, as a
parallel to it, that of another royal feast, given
in 1487 at Whitehall, on occasion of the corona
tion of Elizabeth, queen of Henry VII. whom
he treats with characteristical oeconomy, not
withstanding a kingdom was her dower*.
THE KING'S TABLE, GEORGE III. 1761.
First Service. £. s. d.
12 Dishes of Olio, Turtle, Pot-) OA Q _
tages, and Soups  )
* The whole account is given m Maitland, i. 541 to 344.

OF HIS PRESENT MAJESTY. 205
£. s. d.
12 Dishesof Fish, viz. John Dories, > 94 9 />
red Mullets, &c. ,  J
7 Ditto roast Venison  10 0 0
3 Westphalia Hams consume, and ) a R (\
richly ornamented  3
2 Dishes of Pullets a. la Royale 2 2 0
2 Ditto of Tongues Espagniole 3 3 0
6 Ditto Chickens a. la Reine ... 6'" 6 0
1 Ditto Tondron Devaux a, la> a 9 n
Dauzie ...'...,  }
lHarrico...  1 10
1 Dish Popiets of Veale Glasse 14 0
2 Dishes Fillets of Lamb, a la) 99 n
Comte, . .  3
2 Ditto Comports of Squabs .... 22 Q
2 Ditto Fillets of Beef Marinate 3 0 0
2 Ditto of Mutton a. laMemorance 2 2 0
32 Ditto fine Vegetables . .  . . 16 16 0
Second Service.
6 Dishes fine Ortolans  25 4 0
10 Ditto Quails  15 0 0
10 Ditto Notts  30 0 0
1 Ditto Wheat Ears   11 0
1 Goodevau Patte  1 10 0
I Perrigoe Pye\  110 0
1 Dish Pea-chicks  1 1 0

206 BILL OF FARE FOR THE ENTERTAINMENT £ s. d.
4 Dishes Woodcocks  4 4 0
2 Ditto Pheasants  3 3 0
4 Ditto Teal  3 3 0
4 Ditto Snipes  3 3 0
2 Ditto Partridges  2 2 0
2 Ditto Pattys Royal  3 0 0
Third Service.
1 Ragout Royal ,  1 1 0
8 Dishes of fine green Morells . . 8 8 0
10 Ditto fine green Peas  10 10 0
3 Ditto Asparagus Heads  ;2 2 0
3 Ditto fine fat Livers  Ill 6
3 Ditto fine Combs  Ill 6
5 Ditto green Truffles  5 5 0
4 Ditto Artichoaks, a la Provin-

2 12 6
dale
5 Ditto Mushrooms au Blank . . 2 12 6
1 Ditto Cardons, a la Bejamel . . 0 10 6
1 Ditto Knots of Eggs  0 10 6
1 Ditto Ducks Tongues  0 10 6
3 Dittoof Peths  1 11 6
1 Dish of Truffles in Oil  0 10 6
4 Dishes of Pallets  2 2 0
2 Ditto Ragout Mille  2 2 0
Fourth Service. i
2 Curious ornamented Cakes, ... 2 12 0

OF HIS PRESENT MAJESTY. 207
£ ' s. d.
14 Dishesof Blomanges, represent-) 19 12 ft
ing different figures  5
12 Ditto clear Marbrays  14 8 0
16 Ditto fine cut Pastry  16 16 0
2 Ditto mille Fuelles  I 10 6
The Centre of the Table.
1 Grand Pyramid of Demies of> g ~ fl
Shell-fish of various sorts . . )
32 Cold Things of Sorts, viz. Tem
ples, Shapes, Landscapes in
Jellies, savory Cakes, and Al
mond Gothes 
2 Grand Epergnes filled with fine -v
Pickles, and garnished round/ R R _
with Plates of sorts, as Las-i -,>.
picks, Rolards, &c  '
Total of the King's table £374 1 0

The whole of this day's entertainment cost
the city 6,898/. 5s. Ad. A committee had been
appointed , out of the body of aldermen, who
most deservedly received the thanks of the lord
mayor and whole body corporate, for the skil
ful discharge of this important trust. The
feast consisted of four hundred and fourteen

208 BILL OF FARE OF HENRY VII.
dishes, besides the dessert ; and the hospitality
of the city, and the elegance of the entertain
ment, might vie with any that had ever preceded.
NUPTIAL TABLE. HENRY VII *.
First Coarse.
A Warner byfor the Course
Sheldes of Brawne in Armor
Frumetye with Venison
Bruet riche
Hart-powdered graunt Chars
Fesaunt intram de Royall
Swan with Chawdron
Capons of high Goe
Lampervey in Galantine
Crane with Cretney
Pik in Latymer Sawce
Heronusew with his Sique
Carpe in Foile
Kid reversed
Perche in Jeloye-cjepte
Conys of high Grelpe
Moten Roiall richely garnyshed
Valance baked
Custarde Royall
* Leland's Collectanea, iv. 216*.

BILL OF FARE OF HENRY VII. 209
Tarte Poleyn
Leyse Damask
Frutt Synoper
Frutt Formage
A Soteltie, with writing of Balads.
Second Course.
A Warner byfor the Course
Joly Ypocras
Mamane with Lozengs of Golde
Pekok in Hakell
Bittowre FesawnteBrowes
Egrets in Beorwetye
CokksPatrieche Sturgyn freshe Fenell
Plovers
Rabett Sowker
Seyle in Fenyn entirely served richely
Red Shankks
Snytes Quay les
Larkes ingraylede
Creves de Endence
.JVenesone in Paste Royall
VOL. II. P

210 FEAST GIVEN, BY HENRY VII.
Quince Baked
Marche Payne Royall
A colde bake Mete flourishedc
Lethe Cipras
Lethe Rube
Fruter Augeo
.Frutef Mouniteyne
Castells of Jely in Temple wise made
A Soteltie.
These sotelties, or sub til ties as they were
called, were the ornamental part of the dessert,
and were extremely different from (those in pre
sent use. In the inthronization feast of arch
bishop Wareham, on March 9th, 1504, the
first course was preceded by " a warner *, con-
u veyed upon a rounde boorde of viii panes,
, " with viii towres embatteled and made with
" flowres, standynge on every towre a bedil in
" his habite, with his staffe : and irt the saihe
" boorde, first the king syttinge in bis patlia-
re ment, with his lordes about hyitt in their
" robes; and Saint Wylliam, Tyke an arc-
" bishop, sytting on the ryght hand of the
* A warner was the first soteltie, and which preceded or
gava warning of the courses. See Leland's Collect, vi. 21.

THE WAX-CHANDLERS' FEAST. 211
" kyng: then the chauncelor of Oxforde, with
" other doctors about hym, presented the said
"lord Wylliams kneelyng, in a doctor's habite,
" unto the kyng, with his commend of vertue
" and cunnynge, &c. &c. And on the third
boorde of the same warner, the Holy GrToste
" appeared with bryght beames proceedyng
" from hym of the gyftes of grace towarde the
" sayde lorde of the feaste." This is a speci
men of the ancient sotelties. This was a Lenten
.feast of the most luxurious kind. Many of the
sotelties were suited to the occasion, and of the
legendary nature ; others historical : but all,
without doubt, contrived " with great cun-
'" nynge."
To these scenes of luxury and gluttony, let
me oppose the simple fare at a feast of the
,, wax-chandlers, on Oct. 28jh, 1478. These
,'jWere a flourishing, company in the days of old,
when gratitude to saints called so frequently for
lights. How many thousands of wax candles
were .consumed on those occasions, and what
quantities the expiatory offerings » of private
persons> none can enumerate. Candle-mass day
wasted its thousands, and those all blessed by
the priests, and adjured in solemn terms: " I
" adjure thee, O waxen -creature, that tho|i
. p2

212 GUILDHALL CHAPEL.
" repel the devil and his sprights, &fc. &c*."
Certainlythis company, which was incorporated
in 1484, might have afforded a more delicate
feast than £ s. d.
Two loins of Mutton, and two loins) q , *.
of Veal  3
A loin of Beef.  0 0 4
A leg of Mutton  0 0 2|
APig  0 0 4
A Capon  0 0 6
A Coney  0 0 2
One dozen of Pigeons  0 0 7
A hundred Eggs  0 0 $%
AGoose  0 0 6
A Gallon of Red Wine  0 0 8
A Kilderkin of Ale   0 0 8
£0 7 0
Adjacent to Guildhall, is Guildhall chapel,
or college, a Gothic building, founded by Peter
Fanlore, Adam Francis, and Henry Frowick,
citizens, about the year 1299. The establish
ment was a warden, seven priests, three clerks,
and four choristers. Edward VI.- granted it to
* Rev. Mr. Brand's edit, of Bourne's Antiquitates Vul-
gares, p. 222.

BLACKWALL'S HALL. 213
the njayor and commonalty of the city of Lon
don *. Here used to be service once a week,
and also at the election of the mayor, and be
fore the mayor's feast, to deprecate indigestions
and all plethoric evils f. At present divine ser
vice is discontinued here, the chapel being used
as a justice-room.
Adjoining to it once stood a fair library, fur
nished with books belonging to Guildhall,
built by the executors of the famous Whitting-
ton. Stow says, that the protector Somerset
sent to borrow some of the books, with a pro
mise of restoring them ; three carries were
laden with them, but they never more were
returned J.
Immediately beyond the chapel stands Black-
wall's hall, or, more properly, Bakewell, from
its having in later years been inhabited by a per
son of that name. It was originally called Ba-
sing's hdugh, or hall, from a family of that
name ; the coats of arms of which were to be
seen cut in stone, or painted, in the ancient
building. It was on vaults of stone brought
from Caen in Normandy; the time is uncertain,
but certainly after the Conquest, The family
* Tanner. And Newcourt, i. 363.
+. Newcourt, i. 36"4. I Stow's Survaie, 493.

214 HOSPITAL OF ST. THOMAS OF ACON.
were of great antiquity. Solomon Basing was
mayor in 1216; and another of the name sheriff
in 1308. In 1397 the house was purchased by
the mayor and commonalty for fifty pounds,
ftnd from that time has been used as the market
of woollen cloth. It grew so ruinous in the
time of queen Elizabeth, that it was pulled
down, and re-built at the expence of twenty-
five hundred pounds -much of it atthe expence
of Richard May, merchant-taylor. It consists
at present of two large courts, withswarehouses
in all parts for the lodging of the Cloth; but is
very little' used. Formerly there were pro
clamations issued to Compel people to bring
their goods into this halt, to prevent deceit in
the manufactures, which might bring on us
discredit in foreign markets, and also be the
means of defrauding the poor children of Christ
hospital of part of the revenue which arose from
the haflage of this great magazine.
On the north side of Cheapside stood the
hospital of St. Thomas of Aeon, founded by
Thomas Fitz-Tbeobald de Helles and his wife
Agnes, sister to the turbulent Thomas Becket,
who was born in the house of his father Gilbert,
situated on this spot. The mother of our meek
saint was a fair Saracen, whom his father had

HOSPITAL OF ST. THOMAS OF ACON. 215
married in the Holy Land. On the site of his
house rose the hospital, built within twenty
years after the murder of Thomas; yet such
was the repute of his sanctity, that it was dedi
cated to him, in conjunction with the blessed
Virgin, without waiting for his canonization.
The hospital consisted of a master and several
brethren, professing the rule of St. Austin. The
church, cloisters, &c. were granted by Henry
VIII. to .the mercers' company, who had the
.gift of the mastership *.
In the old church, were numbers of monu
ments; among others, one to James Butler
earl of Ormond, and Joan his wife, living in
the beginning of the reign of Henry VI. This
whole pile was destroyed in the great fire, but
was very handsomely re-built by the mercer^
company, who, have their hall here. In the
portico to the chapel is a full-length figure re
cumbent of Richard Fishbourn, dressed in a
furred gown and a ruff; he died in 1623, and,
being a great benefactor to the place, received
Jibe honour of this monument.
" In this chapel the celebrated, but unsteady,
archbishop of Spalato, preached his first sermon,
Tanner, ^

216 mercers' company.
in 1617, in, Italian, before the archbishop of
Canterbury, and a splendid audience; and con
tinued his discourses in the same place several
times, after he had embraced our religion; but
having the folly to return to his ancient faith,'
and trust himself among his old friends at Rome,
he was shut up in the castle of St. Angelo,
where he died in 1625.
This company is the first of the twelve, or
such who are honoured with the privilege of
the lord mayor's .being elected out of one of
them. The name by no means implied origin
ally a dealer in silks : for mercery included all
sorts of small wares, toys, and haberdashery*.
But, as numbers of this opulent company were
merchants, and imported great quantities of
rich silks from Italy, the name became applied
to the company, and all dealers in silk. Not
fewer than sixty-two mayors were of this com
pany, between the years 1214 and 1762; among
which it reckons sir John Coventry, sir Richard
Whittington, and sir Richard and sir John
Gresham. We are obliged to theexact Strype
for the list. In that by Maitland, the company
each mayor was of, is omitted.
* Anderson's Diet. i. 145.

¦rcan>

-My/, £/»/s,s>

r^z^T*j,'bjJ.t}*zi*aMLWlv-'&/&-i&-&rma. .Zeflh. gt3Aj

THE OLD JEWRY. 217
Immediately to the east is the narrow-street,
the Old Jewry, which took its name from the
great synagogue which stood there till the un
happy race were expelled the kingdom, in
1291. Their persecutions," under some of the
preceding monarchs, nearly equalled those of
the Christians under the Roman emperors : yet
the love of gain retained them in our country
in defiance of all their sufferings. A new order
of friars, called Fratres de Sacca, or depeniten-
tia, got possession of the Jewish temple: but
did not hold it long. Robert Fitzwalter, the
great banner-bearer of the city, requested, in
1305, that the friars might assign it to him. It
seems it joined to his own house, which stood
near the site of the present grocers'-liall. In
1439 it was occupied by Robert Lorge, mayor,
who kept his mayoralty in this house; sir
Hugh Clapton did the same in 1492; and after.
these tenants it was degraded into a tavern,
distinguished by the sign of the Windmill.
The chapel, or church, was bought by the
grocers' company, in 1411, from Fitzwalter,
for three hundred and twenty marks*; who
here layed the foundation of the present hall,
* Survaie, 4,76, 499,

218 SIR JOHN CUTLER.
a noble room, with a Gothic front, and bow
window. Here, to my great surprize, I met
again with sir John Cutler, knight and grocer,
in marble and on canvas. In the first he is re
presented standing, in a flowing wig waved
rather than curled, a laced cravat, and a furred
gown with the folds not ungraceful : in all, ex
cept where the dress is inimical to the sculptor's
art, it may be called a good performance. By
his portrait we may learn that this worthy wore
a black wig, and was a good-looking man. He
was created a baronet November 12th, 1660.
He died in 1693. His kinsman and executor,
Edmund Boulter, esq. expended 166&1. on his
funeral expences*. He is spoken of as a bene?
factor, and that he re-buillthe great parlour,
and over it the court-room, which were con
sumed in the fire of 1666. He served as master
of the company in 1652 and 1653, in 1688, and
again a fourth time. The anecdote of his
bounty to the College of Physicians, might
have led one to suppose that the grocers had
not met with more liberal treatment. But by
the honours of the statue, ahd the portrait, he
seems to have gained here a degree of popu-
• Strype's Stow, i. book i. p. 28ft

grocers' company. 219
larity. How far the cha/acter given of him by
Mr. Pope may rest unimpeached, may remain
a subject of farther enquiry: v
a Thy life more wretched, Gutler, was confess'd.
Arise and tell me was thy death more bless'd?
Cutler saw tenants breaki and houses fall;
For very want he could not build a wall.
His only daughter in a stranger's power*;
For very want he could not pay a dower.
A few grey hairs his rever'nd temple crown'd,
Twas very want that sold them for ten pound.
What ev'n denied a cordial at his end,
Banish VI the doctor, and expeH'd the friend?
What but a want, which you perhaps think mad,
Yet numbers feel, the want of what he had!
This company follows the mercers; they
were originally called pepperers, from their
dealing so greatly in pepper: but in 1345 they
were incorporated by the name of grocers,
either because they sold things by, or dealt in
grossi, or figsf. But from the beginning they
• He. had two daughters; one married to sir William
Portman, hart, the other to John Robartes, earl of Radnor;
both married without his consent. The first died before him.
/J.C. Brooke,, esq. Somerset-Herald. — The same authority tells
me lie had his grant of arms just before his death, wherein be
js styled, " of the city of Westminster."
f Survaie, VJ7, ,,

220 BUCKLESBURY.
trafficked in all the good things which the
trade does to this day.
In this hall sate the famous committee of the
parliament of 1641, which was to settle the re
form of the nation, and conduct the inflamma
tory businesses of the times. Lord Clarendon
gives the motives of fixing on this place: such
as pretended fears for the safety of the friends of
liberty; and the real and reasonable dread of
the moderate men, who had been pointed out to
the moo as enemies to their country — as the
De Witts were by the patriots of Holland, and
de Foulon and Berthier by those of France.
The one gave security to the popular leaders,
and the other lessened the minority, by frighten
ing from attendance numbers who might have
been of use to the royal cause.
In Queen-street, on the south side of Cheap-
side, stood Ringed-hall, the house of the earls
of Cornwal, given by them, in Edward III.'s
time, to the abbot of Beaulieu, near Oxford.
Henry VIII. gave it to Morgan Philip, alias
Wolfe. Near it was Ipres-inn, built by Wil
liam of Ipres, in king Stephen's time, and con
tinued in the same family in 1377.
I forgot Bucklesbury, a street which opens
on the south side of Cheapside, a little to the

BUCKLESBURY. 221
West of the grocers'-hall. It took its name
from one Buckle, who had in it a large manour-
house of stone. This man lost his life in a
strange way. Near his house stood an old
tower built by Edward I. called the Cornets
tower, possibly a watch-lower, from the summit
of which signals might have been given by the
blowing of a horn. Here, that monarch kept
his exchange. About the 3 ear 1358 he gave it
to St. Stephen's chapel, Westminster. This
Buckle intended to pull down, and to have
built a handsome house of wood; or, according
to the expression of the times, a goodly frame
of timber: but in greedily demolishing this
tower, a stone fell on him, and crushed him to
death; and another, who married his widow,
set up the new-prepared frame of timber, and
finished the work. This street, in Stow's time,
j'
was the residence of grocers and apothecaries*.
I have heard that Bucklesbury was, in the reign
of king William, noted for the great resort of
ladies of fashion, to purchase tea, fans, and
other Indian goods. King William, in sqme of
his letters, appears to be angry with his queen
for visiting these shops ; which, it should seem,
* Survaie, 47/.

222 THE MANSION-HOUSE.
by the following lines of Prior, were sometimes
perverted to places of intrigue: for, speaking
of Hans Carvel's wife, says the poet.
She first of all the town was told
Where newest Indian things were sold ;
So in a morning, without boddice,
Slipt sometimes out to Mrs. Thody's,
To cheapen tea, or buy a skreen:
What else could so much virtue mean 1
In the time of queen , Elizabeth, this street
was inhabited by chemists, druggists, and
apothecaries. Mouffett, in his treatise on foods,
calls on them to decide, whether sweet smells
correct pestilent air: and adds, that Buckles-
bury being replete with physic, drugs, and
ipicery, and being perfumed, in the time of the
plague, withthepounding of spices, melting of
gum, and making perfumes for others, escaped
that great plague whereof such multitudes died,
that scarce any house was left unvisited.
Onthe same side of the way is the Mansion-
housd, " damned, I may say, to everlasting
fame*." The sight is relieved amply by ano
ther building behind it, St. Stephen's, Wat?
trook, a small church, the chef d'ceuvre of
* Critical Review* &cY 36, 37.

4-

ST. STEPHEN'S, WALBROOK. 223
sir Christopher Wren, of moreexquisite beauty.
" Perhaps Italy itself, (says a judicious writer)
'f can produce no modern building that can vie
" with this in taste and proportion: there is
" not a beauty, which the plan would admit of,
fr that is hot to be found here in the greatest
" perfection; and foreigners, very justly, call
" our taste in question, for understanding the
" graces no better, and allowing it no higher
** degree of fame*.
Over the altar is a beautiful picture of the
martyrdom of St. Stephen, by Mr. West. Tlie
character of the saint is finely expressed in his
angelic countenance, resigned to his fate, and
full of sure and certain hope. I looked to no.
purpose for the statue erected, Divce Mac-
Aula, by her doating admirer, a former rector j.
which a successor of his has most profanely
pulled down,^
The Mansion-house, and „ many adjacent
buildings, stand on the site of Stocks-market ;
which took its name from a pair of stocks for
the punishment of offenders, erected in an open
place near this spot, as early as the year 1284.,
This was the great market of the city during
* CtitiialE&new,.S7.-

224 THE ROYAL EXCHANGE.
many centuries. In it stoodthe famous eques
trian statue, erected in honour of Charles II.
by his most loyal subject sir Robert Viner,
lord mayor. Fortunately his lordship dis
covered one (made at Leghorn) of John So-
bieski, king of Poland, trampling on a Turk.
The good knight caused some alterations to be
made, and christened the Polish monarch by
the name of Charles, and bestowed on the tur-
baned Turk that of Oliver Cromwel; and thus
new named, it arose on this spot in honour of
his convivial monarch. The statue was re
moved, in 1.738, to make room for the Mansion-
house. It remained many years afterwards in
an inn-yard: and in 1779 it was bestowed, by
the common-council, on Robert Vyner, esq.
who removed it to grace his country-seat.
The opening before the Mansion-house divides
into three important streets: Cornhill in the
center : the Bank of England, the old Thread-
needle-street, on the north ; and Lombard-
street on the south. I shall pursue these as far
as the spots which I have passed over, and give
the remaining things worthy of notice. I shall
take the middle way.
The Royal Exchange, that concourse of all
the nations of the world, arises before us with

THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. 225
the full majesty of commerce. Whether we
consider the grandeur of the edifice, or the vast
concerns carried on within its walls, we are
equally struck with its importance. But we
are more astonished when we find that this
expensive princely pile was the effect of the
munificence of a private citizen, sir Thomas
Gresham. Let the pride of my country not be
suppressed, when I have opportunity of saying,
that the original hint was given to him by a
Welshman; by Richard Clough, afterwards
knighted, originally his servant, and in the
year 1561, by his merit and industry, advanced
by sir Thomas to be his correspondent and
agent in the then emporium of the world, An
twerp. ( Clough wrote to his master, to blame
the city of London for neglecting so necessary
a thing; bluntly telling, that they studied no
thing else but their own private profit; that
they were content to walk about in the rain,
more like pedlars than merchants; and that
there was no kind of people but had their place
to transact business in, in other countries. Thus
stimulated, sir Thomas purchased some tene
ments on the site of the Royal Exchange; and,
on June 7, 1566, laid the foundation, and in
November, 1567, completed what was thert
VOL. n. Q

THE ROYAL EXCHANGE OPENED.
called the Bourse. In 1570, queen Elizabeth
went in great state from her palace at Somerset-
house, to make sir Thomas a visit at his own
house. After dinner she went to the Bourse,
visited every part, and then, by sound of trum
pet, dignified it with the title of the Royal Ex
change. All the upper part was filled then,
and even to this century, with shops ; on this
occasion they were filled with the richest pro
ductions of the universe, to show her majesty
the prosperity of the commercial parts of her
dominions. I cannot learn what the expence
of this noble design was, only that the annual
product of the rents to his widow was 751/. 5s.
I am equally unacquainted with the form of
the original building, which perished in the
great fire. It was re-built, in its present mag
nificent form, by the city and the company of
mercers *, at the expence of eighty thousand
pounds; which, for a considerable time, in
volved the undertakers in a large debt. It was
completed in 1669; on Sept. 28, of that year,
it was opened by the lord mayor, sir William
Turner, who congratulated the merchants on
the occasion. The following inscription does
grateful honor to the original founder:
* Strype's Stow, i. book ii. p. 137.

EubtiLshed by J~. Cca?wa3JZbty&& Strctt.Strw]&.J~<in-vj-<^&j .

STATUES AT THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. 227
Hoc Greshamii Peristyllium,
Gentium commerciis sacrum,
Flammis extinctum 1666,
Augustius e cincere resurrexit 1699>
Will0 Turnero, milite, praetore.
During the first century after its erection,
the appearance of every people in the universe
on their different walks, in their different dresses,
was a most wonderful spectacle. t At present it
is lost by the dull and undistinguishing uni
formity of habit.
The statue of sir Thomas Gresham is in one
corner, in the dress of the times. Another, of
that- worthy citizen sir John Barnard, graces
another part. Never did patriot appear within
these walls in a less questionable shape. I am
informeid, that, after this honor was paid to him,
he never more appeared on the Royal Exchange.
The rest are kings, which ( as far as king
Charles), with that of sir Thomas, were chiefly
executed by Gabriel Cibber; that of Charles II.
in the centre, was undertaken by Gibbons*, but
done by Quillin, of Antwerp. And above
stairs are the statues of Charles I. and II. and
another of the illustrious founder, by John
* Anecdotes of Painting, iii. 136.
Q2

228 st. Michael's church.
Bushnell, an artist of inferior merit, in the reign
of William III. On the top of the tower, in
front of ihe exchange, is a grasshopper, the
crest of sir Thomas Gresham. The allusion to
that, and the dragon on Bow steeple, makes a
line in that inexcusable performance of -Dean
Swift's, a profane imitation of the style of the
Bible*, which dulness itself could execute,
and which nothing but the most indefensible
wantonness could have produced from a person
of his profession, and of his all-acknowledged
wit. '••
I must direct the reader's attention to the
beautiful Gothic tower of St. Michael's, on the
south side of Cornhill. At each corner is an
angulated turret as high as the belfry, where
they become fluted, and the capital ornamented
with sculptures of human faces ; from them
they spire into very elegant pinnacles. The
body of this church was burnt in the great fire.
It was begun to be built in 1421 f; but the
church was of far greater antiquity. It ap
pears to have existed in 1133. This church
had its pulpit-cross, like that of St. .Paul's,
built by sir John Rudstone, mayor in 1528,
* Wonderful Prophecy, &c. t Stow's Survaie, i, 369.

leadenhall. 229
who was interred in a vault beneath in 1531.
It may be added, that Robert Fabian, alder
man, the celebrated historian, was buried in
this church, in 1511, after passing the dignity
of sheriff.
The king had a royal residence in this street,
which was afterwards converted into a noted
tavern, called the Pope's Head. It was a vast
house, and, in the time of Stow, distinguished
by the arms of England, at that time three
leopards passant, guardant, and two angels the
supporters, cut on stone*.
At the end of Cornhill is, as it were, a con
tinuation of the street, by the, name of that of
Leadenhall. It takes its name from a large
plain building, inhabited about the year 1309,
by sir Hugh Nevil, knight; in 1384 belonging
to Humphry Bohun, earl of Hereford. In
1408 it became the property of the munificent
Whittington, who presented it to the mayor
and commonalty of London. In 1419, sir
Simon Eyre, citizen and draper, erected, here
a public granary, built with stone in its pre
sent form. This was to be what the French
call a grenier d'abondance, to be always filled
* Stow's Survaie, 374.

230 PUBLIC GRANARY.
with corn, and designed as a preservative against
famine. The intent was happily answered in
distressful seasons. This and other of the city
granaries seem at first to have been under the
care of the mayors; but in Henry VIII.'s time,
regular surveyors Were appointed. He also
built a chapel within the square; this he in
tended to apply to the uses of a foundation for
a warden, six secular priests, six clerks, and
two choristers, and besides;, three schoolmas
ters. For this purpose he left three thousand
marks to the drapers company to fulfil his in
tent. This was never executed; but in 1466 a
fraternity of sixty priests, some of whom were
to perform divine service every market-day, to
such who frequented the market, was founded
by three priests, William Rouse, John Risby,
and Thomas Ashby*.
Leadenhall-street had the good fortune to
escape tolerably well in the great fire. The
house was used for many other purposes ; for
the keeping the artillery and other arms of the
city. Preparations for any triumph or pa
geantry in the city were made here. From its
strength it was considered as the chief fortress
* Tanner.

£

^

'^

INDIA-HOUSE. 231
within the city, in case of popular tumults ;
and also as the place from which doles, lar
gesses, or pious alms, were to be distributed.
Here, in 1546, while Henry VIII. lay putre
fying in state, Heath bishop of Winchester,
his, almoner, and others his ministers, distri
buted great sums of money, during twelve days,
to the poor of the city. The same was done at
Westminster * ; but I greatly fear his majesty
was past ransom !" The market here was of
great antiquity: considerable as it is at present, '
it is far inferior to what it has been, by reason
of the numbers of other markets which have
been established. Still it is the wonder of fo
reigners, who do not duly consider the carni
vorous nation to which it belongs.
The slaughter made of the horned cattle, for
the support of the metropolis, is evinced by the
multitudes of tanned hides exposed to sale in
the great court of Leadenhall, which is the
present market for that article.
The India-house stands a little farther to the
east, but is not worthy of the lords of Indostan,
This was built in 1726, on the spot once oc
cupied by sir William Craven, mayor in 1610;
Strype's Stow, i> book ii. p. 84, 86\

232 INDIA-HOUSE.
a man of most, extensive charity. His house
was very large, the apartments capacious, and
fit for any public concern*. The African-
house stood in this street, east of Billeter-lanc
end* It had been the mansion of sir Nicholas
Throgmorton. In the church of St. Catherine Cree, in this
street, is, supposed to have been interred the
celebrated Holbein, who died of the plague--in
1554, at the duke of Norfolk's, in the- priory
of Christ-church, hear Aldgate. I must also
mention it on another account, for its being the
stage on which the imprudent, well-meaning
Laud, acted a most superstitious. part in its con
secration, on January 16, 1630-31. His"whole
conduct tendedto add new force to the discon
tents and rage? of the times : he attempted in
novations in the ceremonies of the church, at a
season he ought at least to have left them inthe
state he found them : instead of that, he pusheh
things to extremities, -by that, and by his fi^cpe
persecutions, of his opponents.;;, from which $b.e
never desisted till he brought destruction "ton
himself, and highly contributed to that of his
royal master.
Strype's Stow, i. bopk ii. 88,

y^?y ^//^M^Jw^ -?

SUPERSTITIOUS BEHAVIOR OF ABP. LAUD. 233
'¦ Prynne, whom every one must allow to have
had sufficient cause of resentment against the
archbishop, gives the relation with much acri
mony, and much prophane humor*:
(As first), " When the bishop approached
" near the communion table, he bowed with
"••his nose very near the ground some six or
" seven times ; then he came to one of the cor-
" ners of the table, and there bowed himself
tc three times ; then to the second, third, and
" fourth corners, bowing at each corner three
" times; but when he came to the side of the
" table where the bread and wine was, he
" bowed himself seven times: and then, after
" the reading many praiers b;'~ mselfe and his
" two fat chaplins, (which were with him,
" and all this while were upon their knees by
" him, in their sirplisses, hoods, and tippits),
" he himself came neare the bread, which was
fC cut and laid in a fine napkin, and then he
" gently lifted up one of the corners of the said
" napkin, and peeping into it till he saw the
,-" bread, ( like a boy that peeped into a bird's
" nest in a bush), and presently clapped it
fC down againe, and flew back a step or two,
ft and then bowed very low three times to-
* In. his Canterbury's Doom, book ii. p. 113,

234 CHURCH OF ST. ANDREW UNDERSHAFT.
" wards it and the table. When he beheld
" the bread, then he came near and opened
" the napkin againe, and bowed as before;
" then he laid his hand upon the gilt cup,
" which was full of wine, with a cover upon
" it; so soon as he had pulled the cupp a
" little neerer to him, he lett the cupp goe,
" flew backe, and. bowed againe three times
" towards it ; then hee came neere againe, and
" lifting up the cover of the cupp, peeped into
" it; and seeing the wine, he let fall the cover
" on it againe, and flew nimbly backe, and
" bowed as before. After these, and many
" other apish, anticke gestures, he himselfe re-
" ceived, and then gave the sacrament to some
" principal men onely, they devoutly kneel-
" ing neere the table; after which, more praiers
" being said, this scene and interlude ended."
To the west of St. Catherine Cree, in the
same street, stands the church of St. Andrew
Undershaft, from the unfortunate shaft, or
maypole, which on May 1st, 1517, gave rise to
the insurrection of the apprentices, and the
plundering of the foreigners in the city, whence
it got the name of Evil May-day*. From
that time it was hung on a range of hooks over
* Herbert's Henry VIII. 67. Stow's Survaie, 153,

CHURCH OF ST. ANDREW UNDERSHAFT. 235
the doors of a long row of neighbouring houses,
In the third of Edward VI. when the plague
of fanaticism began to scandalize the promoters
of the Reformed religion, an ignorant wretch,
called sir Stephen/curate of St. Catherine Cree,
began to preach against this maypole (not
withstanding it had hung in peace ever since
the Evil May-day), as an idol, by naming
the church St. Andrew, with the addition of
Shaft. This inflamed his audience so greatly,
that, after eating a hearty dinner to strengthen
themselves, every owner of such house over
which the shaft hung, with assistance of others,
sawed off as much of it as hung over his pre
mises: each took his share, and committed to
the flames the tremendous idol. This sir Ste
phen, scorning the use of the sober pulpit,
sometimes mounted on a tomb, with his back to
the altar, to pour out his nonsensical rhap
sodies; at other times, he climbed into a lofty
elm in the church-yard, and, bestriding a
bough, delivered out his cant with double
effect, merely by reason of the novelty of the
situation*. In the church of St. Andrew Undershaft was
* Stow's Survaie, 282, 283.

236 MONUMENT OF STOW, THE HISTORIAN.
interred the faithful and able historian of the
city, John Stow. He died in 1605,. aged 80;
and, to the shame of bis time, in much poverty.
His monument is still in being, a well-executed
fig'ure, sitting at a desk, in a furred gown, and
writing. The figure is said to be made of
terra cotta, or burnt earth, painted; a common
practice in those days: possibly somewhat
similar to the artificial stone of our time.
In Lime-street, the northern end of which
opens into that of Leadenhall, stood the house
and chapel of the lord Nevil ; and after him,
of the accomplished sir Simon de Burley, and
of his brother sir John. In the time of Stow,
it was partly taken down, and new fronted with
timber, by Hugh Offley, alderman. Finally,
not far from hence, towards the end of the ad
jacent street of St. Mary- Ax, stood the mansion
of Richard Vere, earl of Oxford, who inhabited
it in the beginning of the reign of Henry V\ ;
arid, drawn from thence in his old age to attend
his valiant master to, the French wars, died in
France in 1415*. It was afterwards sir Robert
Wingfield's, who sold it to sir Edward Coke.
In this street stood, in the reign of Edward I.
* Survaie, 312.— Collins's Coll. Noble Families, 247—8.

BANK OF ENGLAND. 237
a house called the King's Artiree, where now
is Queen's-square-passage. In the same street, also, was the house of the
noble family of Bassets, a large pile with several
courts and gardens, which afterwards became
the property of the abbot of Bury, and was
called Bury's Mark.
The sepond street which "opens into Cheap-
side, or rather the Poultry, is Threadneedle, ,
or more- properly Three-needle Street. That
noble building, the Bank of England, fills one
side of the space. The center, and the building
behind, were founded in the year 1733; the
architect, George Sampson. Before that time
the business was carried on in grocers'-hall.
The front is a sort of vestibule ; the base rustic*
the ornamental columns above, Ionic. Within
is a court leading to z. second elegant building,
which contains a hall and offices, where the
debt of above two hundred and fifty millions is „
punctually discharged. Of late years two
wings of uncommon elegance, designed by sir
Robert Taylor, have been added, at the ex-
pence of a few houses, and of the church of
St. Christopher's le Stocks. The demolition
of the last occasioned as much injury lothe*
memorials of the dead, and disturbance of their
poor ashes, as ever the impiety of the fanatics

238 BANK OF ENGLAND.
did in the last century. Much of my kindred
dust* was violated; among others, those of the
Houblon family, sprung from Peter Houblon,
of a respectable house at Lisle in Flanders,
driven to seek refuge in England from the rage
of persecution under the Due d'Alva, in the
reign of queen Elizabeth. About the same
time fled to our sanctuary John Houblon and
Guillaume Lethieulier. The first is found to
have lent, i. e. given, to her majesty, in the
perilous year 1588, a hundred poundsf. His
son James flourished in wealth and reputation,
and was eminent for his plainness and piety.
He was buried in the church of St. Mary
Woolnoth ; but, wanting a monument, the fol
lowing epitaph was composed for him by Samuel
Pepys, esq. secretary to the admiralty in the
reigns of Charles II. and James II. :
JACOBUS HOUBLON,
Londinas PETRI filius,
Ob fidem Flandria exulantis:
Ex C. Nepotibus habuit LXX superstites:
Filios V. videns mercatores florentissimos;"
Ipse Londinensis Bursa? Pater;
Piissime obiit Nonagenarius,
A0 D. CloIoCLXXXII.
* Strype's Annals, ii. 517.
t The loan from the city was only 4900/.

FAMILY OF THE HOUBLONS. 239
His sons, sir John Houblon, and sir James
Houblon, knights, and aldermen, rose to great
wealth. From the last sprung the respectable
family oftheHoublonsofHallingbury, in Essex.
Sir James represented his native city. Sir John,
my great grandfather by my mother's side, left
six daughters : Arrabella, the eldest, married to
Richard Mytton, esq. of Halston, my maternal
grandfather; the second to Mr. Denny, a re
spectable merchant in the city; the four
younger died unmarried. Sir John Houblon
was of the grocers' company, was elected alder
man of Cornhill-ward, September 17th, 1689;
and lord mayor, September 29th, 1695. He
was interred in this church January 18th,
171 1-12. He was at the same time lord mayor
of London, a lord of the admiralty, and the
first governor of the bank of England. His
mansion stood on the site of the house; the
noblest monument he could have.
It would be injustice not to give the name of
the projector of that national glory, the Bank
of England. It was the happy thought of Mr.
James Paterson, of the kingdom of .Scotland.
This palladium of our country was, in 1780,
saved from the fury of an infamous mob by the
virtue of its citizens, who formed suddenly a

240 COMPANY OF MERCHANT-TAYLORS.
volunteer company, and over-awed the mis
creants; while the chiefv magistrate skulked
trembling in his Mansion-house, and left his
important charge to its fate. I cannot wonder
at the timidity of a peaceful magistrate, when
the principle of self-preservation- appeared so
strong in the ministry of the day. It was the
spirit of majesty itself that first dictated the
means of puttinga stop to the outrages; which,
if exerted at first by its servants, wrould have
been true mercy !
At the extremity of Threadneedle-street, ap
pears the Origin of its name. Merchant- Taylors
hdlV; at the period in which they were called
Taylors, and Linen- armourers-, under which
title they were incorporated in the year 1480;
and by Henry VII. by that of the men of the
art and mystery of Merchant-taylors, of the
fraternity of St. John the Baptist. They were
seventh in the rank of the great companies.
Multitudes of eminent men were emulous of
being admitted into it: seven kings, one queen,
seventeen princes and dukes, two dutchesses,
one archbishop, one and thirty earls, five coun
tesses, one viscount, twenty-four bishops, sixty-
six barons, two ladies, seven abbots, seven
priors, and one sub-prior, besides squires in-

PORTRAITS IN THE HALL. 241
numerable, graced the long roll of freemen of
this company*.
Among the pictures in this hall, or its diffe
rent apartments, is owe of Henry VII. present
ing the charter of incorporation to the company.
This was painted and presented by Mr. Natha-
nael Ciarkson, of Islington, a member of the
court of assistants. The king is attended by
William Warham, archbishop of Canterbury,
and lord high chancellor of England. He went
through the various offices, now allotted to
laymen, with great abilities; was appointed
master of the rolls in 1486; keeper of the great
seal in 1502; and lord chancellor in 1503; and
in the following year was advanced to the see
of Canterbury. He was in high favour with
Henry VII.; but on the accession of Henry
VIII. was soon supplanted by Wolsey, and
experienced his greatest insolence. The good
primate enjoyed his dignity near twenty-eight
years, with great munificence and honour; and
died in 1532+.
Next is the portrait of Richard Fox, bishop
of Winchester, an able statesman, greatly em
ployed by Henry VII. at home and abroad;
* Strype's Stow, i. f Illustrious Heads, i. p. and tab. vii.
VOL.- II. R

242 PORTRAITS IN
and continued for some time favoured by his
son. He first introduced Wolsey to court : but
soon experienced his ingratitude. ' Uuable to
bear his insolence, he, like Warham, retired
from business. In his old age, when struck
with blindness, the cardinal meanly hoped to
prevail on him to resign his bishoprick, to
which the good prelate returned a spirited re
ply. He lived to a great age, and died in 1528,
after worthily governing the see twenty-seven
years. Another of Henry's courtiers is on his
left hand; Willoughb3r lord Brooke, steward:
of the household, with his white wand: and in
the fore-ground, the clerk1 exhibiting a roll of
the list of the Toyal freemen of the company.
. For the many good deeds of sir Thomas Row,
merchant- taylbr, his portrait mustnot bepassed
by. He is dressed in a bonnet, ruff, and red
gown. He first established a substantial stand
ing watch in the city, when he was lord mayor,
in 1569: He built a convenient room, near
St. Paul's Cross, for a certain number of the
auditors to hear the preacher at their ease. He
inclosed a piece of ground near Bethtem, for
the burial-place,of such parishes that wanted
church-yards: besides numberless acts of cha
rity, which rendered his memory sweet to pos-

MerchAnt-taylors' hall. 243
terity. He was buried in Hackney,. Septem*
ber 2d, 1570; and has an epitaph in verse, quite
in the simple style of the times*.
The portrait of the illustrious sir Thomas
White, honours this hall, dressed ina red gown.
He was of this fraternity, but possibly not of
the profession; for numbers of opulent mer
chants listed under the banners of the company.
It was far from being confined to the trade.
No one of his time rivalled him in love of litera
ture, charity, and true piety. In the glorious
roll of charities, belonging to this company, he
appears with distinguished credit. I refer to
that for his good deeds, and those of his bre
thren*. Sir Thomas bought the Benedictine
college at Oxford, then called Glocester-hall^,
and founded it by that name. It has since been
advanced into a college, b}" the name of Wor
cester. .He was the sole founder of St. John's
college §, on -whom he bestowed his hall. He
was discontented till be could find a place with
^fThe epitaph calls him a Merchant-venturer. — StrypeS
Stow, ii. app. VZ7. — See more in Vol. i. book i. 237, 26*4—
vol. ii.- book v. 135 — and Stbw's Survaie, 319,
¦''+' Strypels Stow, i. hook i. '263. — ii. b. v. 62, 6'3.
\ Tanner's. Monast. Oxford. "
§. Wood's Hist. Oxford, lib. ii. 302,
r2

244 - PORTRAITS IN
two elms growing together, near which he
might found this seat of learning. He met
with his -wish, and accomplished the great
design. Within my memory, majestic elms
graced the street before this, college, and the
neighbouring. The .sceee was truly academic,
walks worthy, of the,. contemplative schools of
ancient days. fBut alas], in the midst of num
berless modern elegancies, in this single in
stance,., . Spine Daemon whisper'd, Oxford, have a taste;
And by the magic line, every venerable tree fell
prostrate. I refer, as above, to the list of the
noble charities of this good rnau. He was born
at Woodoakcs, in Hertfordshire; entered on
the reward of his excellent deeds in 1566,
aged 72; and met with an honourable tomb
within the walls of his great foundation*.
This magnificent foundation' of his, was in
tended for the reception of the scholars brought
up in Mercbarjl-taylors' school: there being
forty -.six. fellowships designed for tlie eleves of
that school, which was founded by that com-
* Wood's Hbt. Oxford, lib. ii. 314.

MERCHANT-TAYLORS' HALL. 245r
pany, in 1561. It is a handsome plain build
ing, in Suffolk-lane, Thames-street, endowed in
the most ample manner : about three hundred
boys are instructed there, of which one hun
dred are at the expence of the company; among
them many who have risen to the highest digni
ties in the church. It was first kept in a house
belonging to the Staffords, dukes of Bucking
ham, called the Manor of the Rdse. It was
bought by this respectable company*: Richard
Hill, then master of the company, contributed
five hundred pounds, The house being de
stroyed in the great fire, the present buildings
were erected on its site.
This company, it is said, have upwards" of
three thousand pounds a-year to dispose of in
charity, the bequest of several pious members
of this respectable fraternity.
I now descend to emperors, and other lesser
.. characters, A portrait of Charles V. is found
here; another of a lord Willoughby, with a
whiterod ; and a picture of Henry VII. pre-
.senting them with the letters patent of their
incorporation ; the painter Ciarkson ; who the
artist was, or when he lived, I am ignorant.
* Strype's Memor. iii. 142.

2?o" DISTlNdUISHETj TAYLORS.
Let me enumerate the men of valour, and of
literature, wh.o have practised the original pro
fession of this company. Sir John Hawkwood,
usually styled Joannes Acutus, from the sharp
ness of his sword, or his needle, leads the Van,
The arch Fuller says,' he turned his needle into
a 'sword^and his thimble into a shield. He
was born in the parish of Hedingham $ibil, in
Essex, the son of a tanner, and in due time was
bound apprentice to a taylor in tbis city; was
pressed for a soldier, and by his spirit rose to
the highest commands in foreign parts. He
first served under Edward III. and received
from- that monarch the honour of knighthood.
By the extraordinary proofs of -valour he showed
at the battle of Poictiers, he gained the esteem
of his heroic general theiBlack Prince. On
the peace between England and France, he, with
several other English soldiers of fortune, asso
ciated himself with those brave banditti, known
t>y the name of les grandes compagnies, Tard-
Venus, and Malendrins. After carrying terror
through Certain parts of France by their dread*-
ful ravages, he persuaded five thousand horse
men, and about fifteen hundred.; foot, mostly
English, to follow him to assist the marquis of
Monserrat, agaipst Galeazzo, duke of Milan.

DISTINGUISHED TAYLORS* 247;
After performing the most, signal services, for
the marquis, he deserted him for the dukeof
Milan; and was equally successful under his
new master: and was rewarded by being mar
ried to Domitia, natural daughter to Barna
bas, brother to the duke, with whom he re
ceived a great fortune, v By her he had a son
named John, bora, in Italy ; who was natura
lized "in 1406, in the reign of Henry IV *>.
Notwithstanding this, he quitted the service of
the Milanese, and drew his sword inthe cause
of their enemiesthe Florentines., He fought
against the Pisans for the Florentines, and for
the Pisans against the Florentines: but victory
attended him on whichsoever side he took.arj For
a time he enlisted under the pope Gregory XII.
and recovered fpr his holiness the revolted
places in Provence. I find him also employed,
in 1388, by Edward III. on the cruel service of
extirpating the heretics in Provence, and For-
qualquierf. I have little doubt but that his;
sfword, devoted to every call, performed- its
part to the satisfaction of his employer Jy.;cv;
"His native place,. Hedingham, thought itself
so honoured by producing so great a man, that,
v/olloi o: .-»:'f^.iH
* Rymer's Fcedera, viii. 457V - f- The same^vii.-5rjp.' '

248 .DISTINGUISHED TAYLORS.
by the assistance of his friends and executors, it
erected to his, jnemory, in the parish church, a
monument, which I believe stiH exists; for Mr.
Morant speaks of his effigies, and that of two
females lying by him ; from which it may be
supposed he was twice. married, As he pro
bably had no other arms, than the, needle and
thimble, on the Florentine mon,u,mcnt is givenoii
his shield, the device of II awk-es flying through
a wood. He died, fall, pf years and glory, at
Florence, in 1394; where his figure, on horse
back, painted al. fresco on the walls of the
cathedral, by the celebrated Paolo Uccelli,
is still to be seen : beneath is, this inscrip
tion: '•' Jokannes Acutus, eques Britan-
" nic-us, ffitatis supe cautissimus et rei rnili-
" tiaris peritissimus, habitus est. Pauli LTc-
'f celli Opus*," — It is engraven : among
the works of the Society of Antjquarics, with
the date of 1436, which probably refers to the
death of tbe artist ; and was a posthumous ad
dition. .
Sir Ralph Blackwall was said to be .his fel
low-apprentice, and to have been knighted for
his valour by Edward III. But he followed
/ f Misson's Travels, hi. 286,-302.

DISTINGUISHED TAYLORS. 249
liis trade,- married his master's daughter, and,
as we have said before, founded the hall which
bears his name*.
General Elliot's regiment of ' light horse,
raised in our da!y*l, was fornied out Of the choice
spirits of the trade, and performed prodigies . of
valour, worthy of their predecessor in arms,
the great Johannes Actftus..'
John Speed was a Cheshire taylor, and freR
of this company. 'His merit as a British his
torian and antiquary is indisputable. The plans
he has left us (now invaluable) of our ancient
castles, arid of our cities; show equal skill and
industry. Nor must we be silent of his geo
graphical labors, which, considering the con
fined knowledge of the times, are' far from
being despicable.
The famous London antiquary John StoW,
born in London about the year 1525, ought to
have the lead among those of oiir capital: he
likewise Was a taylor. There is not one who has
followed him with equal steps, or who is not
obliged to his black letter labors. In his in
dustrious and long life (for he lived till the
year 1605) he made vast collections, as well
* See Grainger, i. 5.0, 6 1, for both these articles.

250 DISTINGUISHED TAYLORSv
for the history and topography of his native
city, as for the history of England. Numbers,
of facts, in the interesting period in which he
lived, he speaks of from his own knowledge; or
of earlier matters, from books long since lost.
Multitudes of the houses of our ancient nobi
lity, existing in his time, are mentioned by him,
and many of them in the most despicable parts
of the town.
The late Benjamin Robins was the son of a
taylor at Bath. He united the powers of the
sword and the pen. His knowledge in tactics
was equal to that of ahy person of his age : and
by his compilation of lord Anson's voyage, he
proved himself not inferior in elegance of style.
Robert Hill, taylor of Buckingham, was the
first Hebraean of his time: a knowledge ac
quired in the most pressing poverty ; and the-
cares of his profession, to maintain (for a most
excellent man he was ) his large family. The
reverend Mr. Spence did not think it beneath
him to write his life, and point him out to the
public as a meritorious object of charity ; and
to form a parallel between him and the cele
brated Magliabecchi,- librarian to the great
duke of Tuscany*. ^ *
* This little tract was written in 1757; and is reprinted

DISTINGUISHED TAYLORS. 251
It was one of this meek profession, actuated
by the religion of meekness, who first suggested
the pious project of abolishing the slave trade.
Thomas Woolman, a quaker, and taylor, of
New Jersey, was first struck with the thought,
that engaging in the traffic of the human spe
cies' was incompatible with the spirit of the
Christian religion. He published many tract%
against this unhappy species of commerce ; he
argued against it in public and private : he
made long journies for the sake of talking to
individuals on the subject; and was careful,
himself, not to countenance slavery, by the use
of those conveniences which were provided by
the labor of slaves. In the course of a visit to
England, be went to York, 1772; in the same
year sickened of the small-pox, and died Octo
ber 7th, in sure and certain hopes of that re
ward which Heaven will bestow on the sincere
philanthropist. In this street also stands the South- Sea House,
the place in which the company did business,
when it had any to transact. It was first esta
blished in 171 1, for the purpose of an exclusive
among the Fugitive Pieces, in the 2d volume. Hill was born
jn lfjaa.

252

SOUTH-SEA HOUSE,

trade to the South-Seas;- and for the supplying
Spanish America with negroes. In the year
1720, by:,the villany of toe directors, it be
came the most -notorious bubble ever heard of
.in any kingdom. Imaginary fortunes qfrmillions
were grasped at : a luxury introduced as great
as if these (Scheme^ i|iad,,bc^n. realized. • At
length the deception was discovered, and the
iniquitous contrivers detected and brought
to punishment ; many with infamy, by being
expelled the houses*,; ^others suffered in their
purses f , but none .in, a manner adequate to
their crimes, which brought utter ruin on thou-
sands. . ,
Among the multitude of bubbles^ wbich
knaves, encouraged by the folly. of the times,
were encouraged to setup, were thje following
most laughable :
Insurance against divorces.
A scheme to learn men to cast, nativities.
Making dealrboards of saw-dust.
Making butter from beech trees. n
A flying engine, (now exemplified < in. bal-
, "loons. )
* Proceedings of the house of commorfe$'&c. vi. >?3l,
236, \ The same, vi. 251*.

Drapers' hale. 253
A sweet way of emptying necessaries.
I return through Threadheedle-street into
the Broad-street. In Tlirogmorton-street, near
its junction with Broad-street, stands Drapers'
Hall. Thomas Crorawel, earl of Essex, built
a magnificent house on its site? he showed very
little scruples in invading the rights of his
neighbours t6 enlarge his domain. Stow men
tions his own father as a sufferer ; for the earl
arbitrarily loosenedJ from its place a house
which stood in Stow's garden, placed it on roll
ers, and had it carried twenty-two feet farther
off, without giving the least notice: and no
one dared to complain*. The manner of re
moving this house, shows what miserable tene
ments' a certain rank' :bf people had, which
could, like the houses in Moscow/ be so easily
conveyed from place to place. After Cromwel's
fall, the house and gardens were bought by the
drapers' company. The house was destroyed
in the great fire, but re-built, for the use of
their company, in a magnificent manner, 'This
was the farthest lirnits of the fire northward, as
Allhallows church, in Fenchurch-stteet, was
to the east.
* Survaje, 342.

254 PORTRAITS IN DRAPERs'-HALL.
In the hall, a very elegant room, is a portrait
of the first mayor of London, Fitz-alwh*., a
half length. I need not say a fictitious like^
ness. In his days, I doubt whether the artists
equalled in any degree the worst of our mo
dern sign-painters.
At one end of the room is a large picture of
Mary Stuart, with her hand upon her son
James I. a little boy in a , rich vest ; her dress
is black, her hair light coloured.,!' I never saw
her but in dark hair; perhaps she varied her
locks. This could not be drawn from the life:
for she never saw her son after he, was a year
old. These portraits are engraven by Barto-
lozzi. ': .. vr;. r > >Au
Portraits of sir iJosepih Sheldon, mayor in
1677, and of sir Robert Clayton, mayor in
1680. Sir Robert was well deserving of this
public proof of esteem : a great benefactor to
Christ-church hospital, and again to* that of
St. Thomas in Soythwark. He is finely painted,
seajed in a chair. ? , «> .^jl*y>
Thei drapers were incorporated in 1430.
The art of , weaving woollen cloth Was only in
troduced in 1360, by the Dutch and Flemings:
but, as it was long permitted to export our
wool, and receive it again manufactured into

HOUSE OF THE AUGUSTINES. 255
cloth, the cloth trade made little progress in
England till the reign of queen Elizabeth*,
who may be said to have been the foundress of
the wealthy loom, as of many other good things
in this kingdom.
On the west side of the adjacent Broad-
street stood the house of the Augustines, founded
in 1253, by Humphry Bohun earl of Hereford,
for friars heremites of that order. The church
falling into ruin, was re-built by Humphry, one
of his descendants, earl of Hereford, who was
buried here in 1361. Numbers of persons of
rank were also interred here, from the opinion
of the peculiar sanctity those mendicants filled
this earth with. Here lay Edmund Guy de
Meric, earl of St. Paul. This nobleman was
sent oyer by Charles VI. of France, on a com
plimentary visit to Richard" II. and his queen.
He insinuated himself so greatly into the king's
favour, as to- become a chief confident : inso-
muclrthat, by the advice of St. Paul, he was
guilty of that violent action, the murder of his
factious ancle, the duke of Glocester f. Lucie,
wife of Edmund Holland, lord admiral, and
one of the heirs and daughter of Barnaby lord
- * Anderson,- ;i.-40rJ. f Ke'nnet, i. 275.

256 CHURCHES CONVERTED INTO WAREHOUSES.
of Milan. She left great legacies to the church,
in particular to the canons of our lady de la
Scala, at Milan.
Richard Fitzalan, the great earl of Arundel,
beheaded in 1397 at Tower-hill; John Vere,
earl of Oxford, a strong friend to the house of
Lancaster, beheaded by the cruel Edward, in
1463, at the same place, with his son and se
veral -others. Numbers also of the barons who
fell in Barnet-field, found here a place of in
terment. Edward Stafford, duke of Bucking
ham, victim, in 1521, to the pride of cardinal
Wolsey, chose this holy ground ; as did mul
titudes of others, recorded in the Survaie of
John Stow *.
In the successful cruizes made by the Eng
lish, in the vear 1545, about three hundred
French ships were taken : Henry converted the
conventual churches into so many warehouses
for the cargoes. This and the Black-friars
he filled with herrings and other fish, and the
firey-friars were, filled with winef.
At the dissolution, great part of the house,
cloisters, and gardens were granted to William
lord St. John, afterwards marquis of Winches-
* P. 339. i Holinsbed, 968.

WINCHESTER-HOUSE. 257
ter, and lord treasurer. On the site he built
Winchester-place, a magnificent house, where
Winches,ter-s,treet now stands. The west end
of tlje ehurch was in 1551 granted to John a
Lasco, for the .use of the Germans, and other
fugi|iye protestants, and afterwards to Ithe
Dutch as a preaching place. ,,Part also was
converted into a glass-house for Venice glass,
in which Venetians were employed inj every
branch of this manufacture. They were pa
tronized by the duke, of Buckingham. Howel,
the celebrated author of the Letters, was stew
ard to the manufacture, but was, obliged to
quit his office, not being able to endure the;
heat. He had been at Venice in 1624*, pro
bably to pry into the secrets of the art, apd to
engage workmen. This place was afterwards
converted^nto Pinners-hall, or the hall of the
company of pin-makers.
The other part the marquis reserved for the
purpose of stowing corn, coalj and other things.
His son sold the noble monuments of \he dead,
the paving stones, and many other materials,
which bad cost.thousands, for ahundredpounds,
and converted the building into stables for his
* Howel's Letters, 56.
VOL. II. S

258 ST. AUGUSTINE PAPEY.
horses*. The steeple was standing in the year
1600. It was so beautiful, that the mayor and
several respectable citizens petitioned the mar
quis that it might not be pulled down; but
their petition was rejected, and this fine orna
ment of the city demolished f .
Behind this church, close to London Wall,
stood the PapeyK a fraternity of St. Charity
and St. John the Evangelist, for papeys, or
poor infirm priests, founded in 1430 by certain
chauntry priests. It was a numerous society,
designed to relieve any of its members, who by
lameness or illness were reduced to distress or
poverty, whether they were brothers or sisters.
The church of St. Augustine Papey belonged
to this fraternity. These priests, the brother
hood of threescore priests of Leadenhall, and
the company of parish-clerks, who were skilled
in singing diriges and funeral office, were ac
customed to attend the solemn burials of the
rich or great. An instance is given, in 1543,
of their attending the funeral of dame Jane
Milbourn, widow of sir John Milbourn, for
which ten shillings was bestowed on them by
the will of the deceased £. This house became,
* Kennet, i. 336", 337- f Strype's Stow, i. book ii, p. 114.
\ Maitland's Hist. Loudon, ii. 781. Edward Pennant, esq.

SIR THOMAS GRESHAM'S HOUSE. 259
after the suppression, the habitation of sir
Francis Walsingham.
In Winchester-street stood also a great house,
called the Spanish ambassador's, which was
occupied by sir James Houblon, knight and
alderman: and at the same period it was the
residence of several of our most eminent mer
chants, To the east side of the same street, stood the
house of our first of merchants, sir Thomas
Gresham; originally built with brick and tim
ber, and fronting to Bishopsgate-street. By
his will he appointed four lecturers in divinity,
astronomy, music, and geometry, and three
readers in civil law, physic, and rhetoric, each
with a salary of fifty pounds a-year, payable
out of the rent issuing out of the Ro>al Ex
change. This house was the place where the
professors had their apartments, and where the
lectures were to be read; which were begun in
1597, but they are now quite deserted. This
arose in a great degree from the institution of
late ofBagilt, in Flintshire, was m March 1-778 buried at
Marseilles, attended by a long procession of monks. He was
buried by oneof the poorer orders, who had the perquisite of
furnishing funerals like our undertakers. This funeral was
rather grand, but remarkably cheap.
s2

ORIGIN OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY.
the Royal Society : the meetings of which were
for a considerable time held here.
. The origin of that respectable body was from
the meeting of a few illustrious persons at the
lodgings of doctor Wilkins, afterwards bishop
of Chester, and others worthy of record, doctor
Seth Ward, afterwards bishop of Salisbury,
Mr. Boyle, sir William Petty, and the doctors
Wallis, Goddard, Willis, and Bathurst, sir
Christopher Wren, and a few more. In 1658,
they assembled in Gresham college, by per
mission of the professors of the foundation of
sir Thomas Gresham; and on the Restoration
were incorporated by royal charter. A most
instructive and well-founded Museum was
established here in 1677, by Henry; Colwall,
consisting of natural and artificial curiosities,
collected with great expence and judgment.
The society had a benefit never known at any
other time/the assistance of the great Mr.
Boyle, the most accomplished, most learned,
and most religious virtuoso, who pointed out
the proper objects of their collection,, and gave
them the most finished instructions*; for pro-
{ * These were collected and published in 1692. This
little book is a most necessary companion for all travellers
and voyagers,

MUSEUM OP THE ROYAL SOCIETY. "261
curing them from every quarter of the globe.
At that period there were, in both the Indies,
persons capable of understanding, and pursuing
with success, the plan laid down for them at
home. It was the good fortune of the Museum
to have, co-existent with its formation, a phi-
losopher'for its curator, fully qualified to de
scribe its various articles. Doctor Nehemiah
Grew not only performed that part, but illus
trated every one, in cases where the subject
admitted, with the most learned and pertinent
remarks. He published his Museum Regalis
Societatis in 1681, and dedicated it to the
founder, Mr. Colwall, at the expence of whom
the plates were engraven. It is a work equal
to the Museum Wormianum, and any other ad
mired foreign performance of that age. Its
defects arise only from the want of system, the
misfortune of the time: for our Ray had not
then cleared the rich ore of natural history
from the surrounding rubbish. About the
year 1711, the Society removed from hence to
Crane-court in Fleet-street. For numbers of
years the Museum was neglected., My re
spected friend, the honorable Daines Barrington,
with most disinterested zeal, undertook the re
storing it, as far as the ravages of time would

262 EXCISE OFFICE. CROSBIE-HOUSE.
permit. This he did in the most effectual man
ner ; and enriched it with a, number, of new
specimens, especially from our late colonies : it
being his design to have formed it into a re
pository of every thing relative to the natural
history of Great Britain and it* dependencies :
a most noble plan, and worthy of being carried
into full execution. ' By singular chance,
Gresham college escaped the flames in 166.6;
but I believe very little of the original house re
mains: it having been mostly re-built; in. 1601,
possibly after the original design; the arcades
being adapted for the reception' of the num
bers of commercial and other followers of so
universal a merchant as sir Thomas Gresham.
This college has been pulled down within my
memory; and the Excise-office, a building of
most magnificent simplicity, has rose in itsplace.
The payment into this office, from the 5th of Ja
nuary, 1786, to the 5th of January, 1787, was
not less than five millions, ; fiVe hundred and
thirtyi-one thousand, one hundred and fourteen
pounds, six shillings and ten pence halfpenny.
Happyfor us that our wealth keeps pace with
our luxury ! '**
The house known by the name of Crosbie-
house, stood on the opposite side of Bishops-

^

V

^

X

CROSBIE-SQUARE. 263
V
gate-street, and was another magnificent struc
ture, built by sir John Crosbie, sheriff in 1470,
on ground leased to him by Alice Ashfield, pri
oress of St. Helen's. In this house Richard
duke of Glocester lodged* after he had con
veyed his nephews to the Tower, and was me
ditating the destruction of the poor innocents.
The hall, miscalled Richard III.'s chapel, is
still very entire ; a beautiful Gothic building,
with a bow-window on one side ; the roof is
timber, and much to be admired. At present,
this magnificent room is occupied by a packer.
Henry VIII. made a grant of it to Anthonio
Bonvica, a rich Italian merchant f. Henry
was a great favorer of the merchants of this
nation, for the sake of the " magnificent silks,
" velvets, tissues of gold, jewels, and other
" luxuries, (as he expresses it) for the plea-
sc sure of us, and of our dearest wyeff, the,
" quenej." In the reign of Elizabeth, it
seems appropriated to foreign ambassadors :
here was lodged the ambassador of France, and
again the ambassador of Denmark§. The site
of this house is still known by the name of
Crosbie-square.
* Fabian, bookvii. 514. f Stow, ii. book ii. 106.
X Rymer'sFced. xv. 1Q5. § Stow's Survaie, 332.

264 SIR PAUL PINDAR.
• The house of that great merchant sir Paul
Pindar stands in this street: it is easily known
by the bow, and vast extent of windows along
the front. Sir Paul, was early distinguished by
that frequent cause of promotion, the know
ledge of languages. He was put, apprentice to
an Italian master, travelled much, and was ap
pointed ambassador to the Gland Seignor by
James I.; hrwhich office he gained great credit,
,by extending the English commerce in the
Turkish dominions. He brought over With
him a diamond valued at 30,0001. ; the king
wished to buy it on credit/ but this the sensible
merchant declined : but favoured his majesty
with the loan on gala days : his unfortunate
son became the purchaser. Sir Paul was ap
pointed farmer of the customs by James; and
frequently supplied that monarch's wants, as
well as those of his successor. He was esteemed
atone time worth 236,000Z. exclusive of bad
debts, in the year 1639. His charities were
very great : he expended nineteen thousand
pounds in the repairs of St. Paul's cathedral *.
He was ruined by his connections with his un
fortunate monarch ; and, if I remember right,
underwent imprisonment for debt. It is said
* Whitelock, p. 17.

PRIORY OF ST. HELEN'S. 265
that Charles owed him, and the rest bf the old
commissioners of the customs, 300,000/. ; for
the security of which, in 1649, they offered the
parliament 100,000/. ; but the proposal was re
jected*. He died August 22, 1650, aged 84.
He left his affairs in such a perplexed state,
that his executor, William Toomes, unable to
bear the disappointment, destroyed himself;
and most deservedly underwent the ignominy
of the now, almost obsolete verdict of fclo de se.
Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great,
and a canonized saint, had, a little to the east
of Crosbie-square, a church dedicated to her
in very early times. In 1210, a priory of Bene
dictine nuns was founded by a goldsmith, Wil
liam Fitz-William, dedicated to the Holy
Cross> and its inventress Helena, the piissima
et venerabilis Augusta. Its revenues, accord
ing to Dugdale, were 314/. 2s. 6d. Henry
granted the site to Mr. Richard Cromwel,'
alias Williams ; and on the nuns hall was built
the Leather-sellers' Hall. This company was
incorporated in the reign of Richard II. They
* Whitelock, p. 410. — In the Gentleman's Magazine for
June 1787, is an ample account of sir Paul Pindar; and in
tlie European for April 1787, his character, with a view of
bis bouse.

266 st. Helen's the great.
flourished greatly, in particular, in the time
of queen Elizabeth, when they had considerable
commerce in skins from Barbary and Russia,
and made great profits from the exportation of
the manufactured leather.
North-east of Threadneedle-street, stands
the ancient church known by the name of- St.
Helen's the Great ; in it are numbers of cu
rious tombs : they fortunately escaped the ra
vages of the great fire. -That' of the great
benefactor to the city, sir Thomas Gresham,
claims the first notice : it is altar-fashioned,
with a black slab on the top ; the sides fluted,
and of coloured marble. So great a name
wanted not the proclamation of an epitaph, so
it is entirely without inscription.
A most magnificent tomb of sir William
Pickering, who died in London, at Pickering-
house, in 1574, aged 58. He lies recumbent,
in rich gilt and painted armour, small ruff,
short hair, trunk breeches ; the mat he rests on
is finely cut. He had served four princes :
Henry VIII. in the field ; Edward VI. as
ambassador to France ; queen Mary, in Ger
many; and finally, queen Elizabeth. " Eli-
" zabeth, ( says his epitaph ) principi omnium
illustrissimce summis officiis devotissimus."

TOMBS IN ST. HELEN'S CHURCH. 267
He is said to have aspired at the possession of
her person*. Strype says that he was the finest
gentleman of the age, for his worth in learning,
arts, and warfaref.
A tomb of William Bond, who died in 1576,
a merchant adventurer, and the most famous of
his a ie for voyages by land and sea. He, his
wife, and seven children, are represented kneel
ing. The lady is distinguished by her vast
sleeves. Their son Martin took a military turn: he
was captain in the camp, at Tilbury in 1588,
and ehief captain in the train-bands till his
death. He is represented in armour, in his
tent ; soldiers are seen on the outside, and his
servant waiting with his horse.
I omit many splendid monuments, which re
cord that the possessors were good men and
gOod citizens. That of sir Julius Adelmar
Cesar, who died a superannuated master of the
Rolls in 1636, is very singular. His epitaph is
cut on a black slab in form of a piece of parch
ment with a seal appendant, by which he gives
his bond to Heaven, to resign bis-life willingly
whenever it should please God to call him.
* Kennefs Hist. ii. 3S3. t Annals, ii. 357-

268 TOMBS IN ST. HELEN'S CHURCH.
In cujus rei testimonium manum meam et si-
gillum apposui.
In a plain square mausoleum, is lodged the
embalmed corpse of Richard Bancroft, placed
in a chest with a lid fastened only with hinges,
and over the face is a glass pane. This Ban
croft is said to have been one of the lord
mayor's officers, and a very rapacious person.
To make atonement for his past life, he left his
ill-gotten riches in trust to found and maintain
an almshouse and school, and to keep the mo
nument in repair. He left twenty shillings to
the minister to preach annually a commemora
tion-sermon*. The almsmen and scholars at
tended, and his body was brought out for pub
lic inspection. But I think that this custom,
as well as the sermon, have been of late years.
laid aside.
Here is also another tomb, to commemorate
sir John Crosbie and his spouse: it is of an
altar form; on it lie recumbent two alabaster
figures, one of a beardless man, with his hair
cut short and round ; over his shoulders is a
robe, a fine collar round his neck, his body
armed, and a griffin at his feet. By him lies
his lady. Sir John had been a great benefac-
* Northouk's Hist, of London, 557.

THE LOMBARDS. 269
tor to the city. He left five hundred marks to
repair this church : his arms were expressed on
the timber roof, stone-work, and glass. To
wards the repair of London Wall, he gave a
hundred pounds ; and another towards build
ing a stone tower on London bridge: to the
wardens of Grocers'-hall, two large silver
chased half gilt pots, weighing thirteen pounds
five ounces, troy weight,: to be used in the
common hall : and to all the prisons in a most
liberal manner*.
I now visit the third street which branches
from the Poultry, that which took its name
from the Lombards, the great money-changers
and usurers of early times. They came out of
Italy into our kingdom before the year 1274f
at length their extortions became so great, that
Edward III. |eized on their estates ; perhaps
the necessity of furnishing him with money for
his Flemish expedition, might have urged him
to this step. They seem quickly to have re
paired their loss ; for complaint was soon after
made against them, for persisting in their prac
tices. They were so opulent in the days of
Henry VI. as to be able to furnish him with
* Holinsbed, 702. —Strype's Stow; book ii. 105;
f Anderson, i. 4,06.

270 THE POST-OFFICE.
money, but they took care to get the custom*
mortgaged to them by way of security f. In
this street they continued till the reign of queen
Elizabeth ; and to this day it is filled with the
shops of numbers of eminent bankers. ^
The shop of the great sir Thomas Gresham
stood in this street ; it is now held by Messrs.
Martin, bankers, who are still in possession of
the original sign of that illustrious person,
the Grasshopper. Was it mine, that honour
able memorial of so great a predecessor should
certainly receive the most ostentatious situa
tion I could find._
The Post-office, which gives wings to the ex
tension of commerce, stands in Lombard-street.
The office of chief postmaster was erected in
1551*, but we are not told how this branch
of business was managed ; however, it was not
regularly established till the year 1644, when
Mr. Edmund Prideaux, the inland postmaster,
was supposed to collect about five thousand
pounds a year.
In 1654, the parliament farmed the post-of-
f Anderson, i. 231.
* The asterisks mark my authority as from Mr. Anderson ;
the rest are mofe doubtful, except from the words net in
come, in the next page,

POST-OFFICE REVENUE. 271
fice to a Mr. Manly, for 100,000/. This farm
included the postage of England, Scotland,
and Ireland*,
On the Restoration, a general post-office was
established in London, to be under the direc
tion of a postmaster to be appointed by the
king ; and with powers to appoint post-houses
in such parts of the country which were un
provided, both on the post and by-roads.
In 1663, when peace and a settled govern
ment was restored, they were farmed to Daniel
O'Neil, esq. for 21,500/.*
In 1674, they were raised to 43,000/. ; and
in 1685, the gross was estimated at 65,000/.*
At the revolution, the post amounted to
76,319/. In 1699, to 90,504/.*
In 1710, to 111,461/. In 1715, the gross of
the inland post came to 145,227/. £ s. d.
In 1722, the gross amount was 201,804 1 8
Deduct for franked covers . . . 33,397 12 3
 for expence in ma-) ^q ggg \ 5

nagement

Net prod uce, Michaelmas 1 722, 98,010 8 0
* See note in preceding page.

272. POST-OFFICE "REVENUE.
In 1744, to 198,226/.; but the total of the
inland and foreign offices was, in that year,
235,490/. The privilege of franking was first claimed
by the commons in 1660, and allowed to both
houses by the crown in the following year.
The abuse must have been very great, it being
asserted, that in 1763, the loss by that privilege
amounted to 170,7130/. I have seen in some
private notes, that the gross of the year's reve
nue was 432,048/. ; and from better authority,
that the net income of 1763, the year previous
to the first regulation of franking, was 97,833/. ;
which, in 1764, increased to 116,182/.
In the year ending in August, 1784, the net
revenue amounted to 159,625/. The act for the
second regulation took place in that month ; in
the following year it increased to 196,513/.,
and in the succeeding, to 261,409/. ; and in the
last ( 1788) by reason of our national prosperity,
to 280,000/,
Before the great fire, on the site of the pre
sent office stood a much -frequented tavern.
When it was destroyed by that calamity, the
convivial sir Robert Viner replaced it with a
large house for his own habitation. Sir Ro
bert, during his mayoralty, in 1675, was ho-

ROMAN STREET. 273
noured with the presence of his monarch,
Charles II. ; his majesty was for retiring, after
staying the usual time, but sir Robert, filled
with good liquor and loyalty, laid hold of the
king, and swore, " Sir, you shall take t'other
" bottle. The airy monarch looked kindly at
" him over the shoulder, and with a smile,
" and graceful air, repeated this line of the old
song :

tt

" He that's drunk is a> great as a king,"
" and immediately turned back, and complied
" with his landlord*."
In digging anew sewer in Lombard-street,
a few years ago, was discovered the remains of
a Roman street, with numbers of coins, and se
veral antique curiosities, some of great elegance.
The beds through which the workmen sunk were
four. The first consisted of factitious earth,
about thirteen feet six inches thick, all accumu
lated since the desertion of the ancient street :
the second of brick, two feet thick, the ruins of
the buildings: the third of ashes only, three
inches : the fourth of Roman pavement, both
common and tesselated, over which the coins and
* Spectator, No. 462.
VOL. II. T

274 ANTIQUITIES.
other antiquities were discovered. Beneath that
was She original earth. This account was com
municated to.thc Society of Antiquaries by doc
tor Combe, sir John Henneker, and Mr. John
Jackson of Clement's-lane. The predominant
articles were earthen-ware: and several were
ornamented in the most elegant manner. A
vase of red earth has on its surface a represen
tation of a fight of men; some on horseback,
others on foot ; or perhaps a show of gladiators,
as they all fought in pairs, and many of them
naked : the combatants were armed with fal
chions ; and small round shields, in the manner
of the Thracians, the most esteemed of the gla
diators. Others had spears, and others a kind
of mace. A beautiful running foliage encom
passed the bottom of this vessel. On the frag
ment of another were several figures. Among
them appears Pan, with his Pedum or crook ;
and near to him one of the lascivi satyri, both
in beautiful skipping attitudes. On the same
piece are two tripods ; round each is a serpent
regularly twisted, and bringing its head over a
bowl which fills the top. These seem (by the
serpent) to have been dedicated to Apollo*,
* See similar in Monfaucon, torn. i. part ii. tab. iii.

ANTIQUITIES. 275
who, as well as his son iEsculapius^ presided
over medicine. On the top of one of the tri
pods stands a man in full armour, Might not
this vessel have been votive, made by order of
a soldier restored to health by favour of the
god; and to his active powers and enjoyment
of rural pleasures, typified under the form of
Pan and his nimble attendants ? A plant extends
along part of another compartment, possibly
allusive to their medical virtues : and, to show
that Bacchus was not forgotten, beneath lies a
Thyrsus with a double head. All that ap
pears of the two bowls I describe, have elegan
cies, which make it evident that Rome did not
want its Wedgwood.
On another bowl was a free pattern of foliage.
On others, or fragments, were objects of the
Chace, such as hares, part of a deer, and a boar,
with human figures, dogs, and horses : all
these pieces prettily ornamented. There were
besides, some beads, made of earthen-ware, of
the same form as those called the ovum angui-
niim, * and by the Welsh, glain naidr ; and
numbers of coins in gold, silver, and brass, of
Claudius, Nero, Galba, and other emperors,
down to Constantine, The more curious parts
of this interesting discovery are engraven in the
t2 *

276 HOUSE OF WILLIAM DE LA POLE :
Archffiologia, vol, viii, and merit the attention
of the curious. *
In the same street, towards Birchiii-lane,
stood the house of William de la Pole *, created
in France, by Edward III. knight- hanneret,
with allowance out of the customs of Hull for
the support of his dignity f. He was a great
merchant, and, being very opulent, used to
supply the king's pecuniary wants. He was at
the same time the king' s-mer chant; an office
that gave him the lucrative privilege of sup
plying his master with different sorts of mer
chandize, and also with money. The office
seems to have been continued t° later days,
under another name : Henry VIII. had his
king's factor, and sir Thomas Grehsam bore
the title of the queen's. Richard (William's
elder brother, .a merchant at Hull) had the
same employ under Edward III. who calls
him dilectus mercator Ricardus de la Pole Pin-
cerna noster |,
From William sprung a numerous race of
nobility, distinguished by their ambition and
unfortunate ends. H^S son Michael was created
earl of Suffolk, yet continued in his office of
* Stow's Survaie, 384.
t Vincent's Discoverie, &c. 500. , j The Sam*.

CALAMITIES OF THE FAMILY. 277
king' s-mer chant, and lived in, his father's
house*. He at length became lord high-
chancellor ; but, being accused of embezzling
the public money, and divers other crimes, was
banished the kingdom, and died at Paris in
1389, of a broken heart. His son Michael was
restored, and died of a flux at the siege of Har-
fleur, in Sept. 1415; and in the very following
month, his son and successor, another Michael,
fell in the battle of Agincourt. His brother
William succeeded, and was afterwards created
marquis, and then duke of Suffolk. He was
the favorite of the spirited Margaret of Anjou.
He was of distinguished abilities, but by his
insolence enraged the nobility so greatly, that
on an accusation of his being the cause of the
loss of France, they banished him the kingdom.
On his passage to Calais, he was seized by a
vessel sent expressly to intercept him, and was
brought into Dover, beheaded by the captain
of the ship in the cock-boat, without ceremony,
and his body flung upon the sands, where it
was found by his chaplain, and buried at Wing-
field in Suffolk. The nobility dreaded his re
turn, therefore took tbis method to free them-
* Stop's Survaie, 384.

278 swithin's-lane.
selves from so, formidable an enemy*. John,
his son, succeeded him. Finally, his son Ed
mund, who was condemned for a murder in the
time of Henry VII., received his pardon : but
in the following reign was, in 1513, executed
for treason; but his chief crime with that ty
rant seems his relation to the house of York,
his mother being sister to Edward IV. The
venerable Margaret countess of Salisbury was
barbarously brought to the block for the same
reason; her son, cardinal Pole, would not have
been spared, could Henry have got him into his
power, Henry Pole, lord Montacute, suffered
for corresponding with him : and thus ended
this ill-fated race.
In Swithin's-lane, which runs between Lom
bard-street and Cannon-street, stood Torting-
ton, the house of the prior of Tortington in
Suffolk. It was the house of the Veres earls of
Oxford, in 1598, and called Oxford-place.
Adjacent to the garden stood what Stow calls
two other faire houses, In one dwelt Sir Rich
ard Empson, in the other Edmund Dudley;
the cruel instruments of oppression under the
* See the curious particulars in sir John Fenn's, i. 39,- 48,
.truly stated. See also Shakespeare's Henry VI. part ii. act iv,
scene 1. and the account of the prophecy, in act i. scene 4,

RECEPTION OF A RUSSIAN AMBASSADOR. 279
royal miser Henry VII. Each of them had a
door into the garden, where they met and had
private conferences*; probably to concert the
best means of filling their master's pockets by
the rigorous enforcement of penal statutes, or
the revival of obsolete laws: or by assisting in
any mean bargain which Henry chose to make.
In Fenchurch -street, a continuation of the
former, stood Denmark-house. In it was
lodged the ambassador sent, in 1557, as Ho
linshed expresses, from the emperor of Cathaie,
Muscovia, and Russeland. This was in con
sequence of the new discovery of the White
Sea by Chancellor : for tiil that time Russia
Was quite impervious by any other way. The
merchants were well acquainted with the im
portance of the new commerce : they met him
at Tottenham with all the splendour that was.
likely to make an impression on the mind of a
barbarian. They were dressed in velvet coats,
and rich chains of gold, and bore all his ex-
pences. Lord Montacute, with the queen's
pensioners, met him at Islington; and the lord
mayor and aldermen, in scarlet robes, received
him at Smithfield, and from thence rode with
* Stow's Survaie, 427.

280 hudson's-bay house.
him to this house, then"" Maister Dimmock's,
in Fenchurch Street*." Our Russian com
pany was formed three years previous to the ar
rival of this ambassador, but its commerce was,
carried on with redoubled success after the
Russians were thus made acquainted with our
wealth and power.
In the same, street was Northumberland-
place, the site of the house of Henry earl of
Northumberland, towards the end of the reign
of Henry VI..
i. Ironmongers' -hall is a great ornament to
this street ;. as it is an honour to its architect.
It was built in 1748, and is the place of busi
ness and festivity of that great and opulent
company. > Maitland tells, us, they have the.
happy ability of disposing annually, of eighteen-
hundred pounds for charitable uses.
"i In this street *, is the Hudson's-bay House?
the vast repository of the northern furs of Ame
rica, which are lodged here till they are*sold;;i
and exported to various panis of the; world, -
even to the distant China. In this hall is a vast
pair of horns of the moose deer, weighing fifty-
six pounds j and in another room, the picture ;
flolinsbed, V\3Q<

THE RIVER THAMES. 281
of an elk, the European moose, killed in the
presence of Charles X Ir of Sweden, which
weighed twelve hundred and twenty-nine
pounds. I should speak with the prejudices of a true
Englishman, was I to dignify the Thames with
the title of the chief of rivers. I must qualify
my patriotism with its just claim to that of
first of island-riverSi But in respect to our
rival kingdom, „ it must yield the palm to the
Garonne, only we must not make comparison
of length of course. The contracted space of
our island must limit thatspecies of grandeur ;
but there are none, in any part of Europe;,
which can boast of more utility of bringing
farther from the ocean the largest commercial
ships; nor are there any which can bring the
riches of the universe to *their very capital;
The ships of the Seine discharge themselves at
Havre ; those of the Loire reach no farther than
Port-Lannai; far below its emporium Nantes ;
and the Garonne conveys no farther than Pouil-.
lac the full-loaden ships : there they are obliged
to be eased of part of their cargoes, before
Ihey cap reach the opulent Bourdeaux. ma
The TJiames rises beneath Sufferton-hill,
just within the borders of Gioeesterghire, a

282 THE RIVER THAMES.
little to the south-west of Cirencester, which it
instantly quits, and enters for a short space into
the county of Wilts, bends a little into it, and
re-enters its parent province near Lechlade,
where (by means of locks) it first becomes na
vigable, and, as is said, for barges of seventy
tons. It here leaves Glocestershire, and be
comes the whole southern boundary of Ox-
fordshise, or the northern of Berkshire, and
from thence is the southern limit of Bucking
hamshire. At Boulter's-lock, above Maiden
head, in that county, is the last lock; from
thence to the sea it requires no farther art to
aid its navigation. At a small distance from
Windsor, it divides Middlesex from Surry ;
just above Kingston it feels the last feeble
efforts of a tide ; from thence is 3 most impor
tant increase: just below London-bridge,
eighteen feet : and at Deptford, twenty.. The
preceding, brings ships of three hundred and
iifty tons, drawing sixteen feet water, to the
custom-house ; the last, those of a thousand
tons, even the largest, drawing twenty-three
feet, which import the treasures of India. This
noble river continues fresh as low as Woolwich,
and even there is brackish only at spring-tides.
!Thus at our capital it is perfectly pure, salu^

THE RIVER THAMES. 283
brious, and subservient to vast articles of com
merce, with which thatstupendous city abounds.
The whole course of the Thames, to its
mouth, is considerably above two hundred
miles. I contract its length very consider
ably, in comparison of the usual estimation,
for 1 limit its mouth to the spot between the
west end of the isle of Grain, in Kent, and the
eastern part of that of Cauvey in Essex. From
those places to the Naze in the latter county,
and the North Foreland in that of Kent ( which
have hitherto been considered as its entrance)
it ceases to flow in a single channel ; it be
comes a vast estuary filled with sandbanks,
many of which appear above water at the re
cess of the tides.
The whole course of the river is through a
country which furnishes every idea of opulence,
fertility, and rural elegance : meadows rich in
hay, or covered with numerous herds ; gentle
risings, and hanging woods ; embellished with
palaces, magnificent seats, or beautiful villas,
a few the hereditary mansions of our ancient
gentry, but the greater part property trans
ferred, by the effects of vice and dissipation,
to the owners of honest wealth, acquired by
commerce, or industrious professions, or the

284 FISH OF THE THAMES.
dear purchase of cankering rapine. Its course
furnishes few sublime scenes, excepting the
high chalky cliffs near Henley ; all its banks
are replete with native softness, improved by
art, and the fullest cultivation.
I do not recollect that it flows in any part
over a rocky channel ; its bottom is either
gravelly or clayey, according to the nature Of
the soil through which it meanders. This gives
growth to the abundance of weeds with which
it is in many parts filled ; and these prove
the safety of multitudes of fishes, and preserve*
them from being extirpated by the unbridled
ravages of the poachers. The Thames has,
between its source and Woolwieh, every spe
cies found in the British rivers/except thebur-
bot, the loche, the cobities teenia, or spiny lothe,
of late years discovered in the river Trent, and
the small species of salmon, the samlet. The
salmon and the shad, are fishes of passage ; the
first appears in the river about the middle of
February, is in great estimation, and sells at
avast price; their capture is prohibited from
the 24th of August to the llth of November;
The shad arrives the latter fend Of May, or be
ginning of June, and is a very coarse fish ; it
sometimes grows to the weight of eight pounds,

FISH OF THE THAMES. 28j*
but the, usual size is from four to five. This
is the fish which Du Hamel describes ^ the
true alose of the French* f but the fishermen
of the Thames have another they call allis,
much lesser than the former, with a row of
spots from the gills along the sides, just be
neath the back, more or less in number ; this
the^French call le feinief. I suspect that the
name allis is misapplied, to this species, and
that it ought to be applied to the great or
common shad, being an evident corruption from
the. French. name alose. :, is the same with that
of the. Severn, but is rarely taken here: but
neither of them are admitted to gqod tables.
The lesser lamprey, the petromyzon fluvia-
tilis of Linnaeus, is a small fish of great and
national importance, and is taken in_amazing
quantities between Battersea-r^acif and Tap-
low-mills ( a. space of >boHtfifty miles), and,
sold to the Dutch for the cod and other fishe-
* Du Hamel, ii. 3l6\ tab. i. fig. 1.
f Du Hamel, ii. 321, tab. 1. fig. 5. — Bloche, ii. tab. xxx.
gives the figure of the feinte; but is of Opinion that- the spots
vanish with age. For my part, I bave not had opportunities
of frequent examination of these fishes, but I incline to think.
they are different, as the feint es appear in spawn at the length.
of sixteen inches, which is their largest size.

286 FISH OF THE THAMES.
ries ; 450,000 have been sold in one season for
that purpose : the price ha3 been forty shil
lings the thousand : this year the Dutch have
given three pounds; and the English from five
to eight pounds ; the former having prudently
contracted for three years at a certain price.
Formerly the Thames has furnished from a
million to twelve hundred thousand annually.
An attempt was lately made in parliament to
fling the turbot fishery entirely into British
hands, by laying ten shillings a ton duty on
every foreign vessel importing turbots into
Great Britain; but the plan was found to be
derived from selfish motives, and even on na
tional injustice: the far greater quantity of
turbots being discovered to be taken on the
.coasts of Holland and Flanders*.
The fish of the Thames which come as low
as London, and beyond it as far as the water is
fresh, are the barbel (which is never seen be
low the bridge ) a few roach, and dace, bleak
in great plenty, and eels extend far down the
river ; small flounders are found as far as Ful-
ham, brought up b'y the tides, and continue
stationary. Several of the lesser species of
* See Supplement to the Arctic Zoology.

FISH OF THE THAMES. 287
whales have been known to stray up the Thames ;
a kind of grampus, with a high dorsal fin, has
been taken within the mouth of the river. It
proved the spekhugger of Strom. Hist, Sond-
moer, i. 30D; the delphinus orca of Fabriciusi
Faun. Groenl. p. 46. Its length was twenty-
four feet. Mr. J. Hunter has given a good
figure in Phil. Trans, vol. lxxvii. tab. xvi.
Another, which is engraven by the same
gentleman, in plate xvii. was of the length of
eighteen feet, thick in proportion to its length,
and very deep bellied. I think it a new species.
A species allied to the delphinus, dclphis, or
dolphin,, twenty-one feet long, was taken in
1783 above London-bridge. The nose is pro
tracted and slender, like that of the dolphin,
but much shorter. It differs from the bottle-
nosed whale of Mr. Dale, in several particu
lars. The nose does not turn up at the end ;
the body is slender, the dorsal fin placed near
the tail ; and, as Mr. Hunter observes, has a
very specific mark, two very small pointed teeth
in the fore part of the upper jaw. This is en
graven in plate xx. of the same volume of the
Transactions; and has furnished a second new
species discovered by our great anatomist.
The commooporpesses frequently run up the

288 denham's verses on the thames.
Thames in numbers, and afford an eager diver
sion to the watermen.
I will conclude this account with the fine
lines written by sir John Denham on this our
celebrated river ; and in a manner worthy of
the greatness of the subject :
My eye descending from the hill surveys
Where Thames among the wanton valleys strays;
Thames, the most lov'd of all the ocean's sons
By his old sire, to his embraces runs,
Hasting to pay his tribute to the sea,
Like mortal life to meet eternity,
Tho' with those streams he no resemblance bold,
Whose foam is amber, and their gravel gold.
His genuine and less guilty wealth t' explore,
Search not his bottom, but survey his shore ;
O'er which he kindly spreads his spacious wing,
And hatches plenty for th' ensuing spring ;
Nor then destroys it with too fond a stay,
Like mothers which their infants overlay ;
Nor with a sudden and impetuous wave,
Like profuse kings, resumes the wealth he gave :
No unexpected inundations spoil
The mower's hopes, nor mock the plowman's toil ;
But godlike his unwearied bounty flows,
First loves to do, then loves the good he does.
Nor are his blessings to his banks confin'd,
But free and common as the sea or wind,
When he to boast or to disperse his stores.
Full of the tributes of his grateful shores,

DENHAM'S VERSES ON THE THAMES. 289
» Visits the world, and in his flying tow'rs
Brings home to us, and makes both Indies ours ;
Finds wealth where 'tis, bestows it where it wants,
Cities in deserts, woods in cities plants:
So that to us no thing, no place is strange,
While his fair bosom is the world's exchange.
O could I flow like thee, and make thy stream
My great example, as it is my theme !
Tho' deep, yet clear ; tho' gentle, yet not dull ;
Strong, without rage; witbouto'erflowing, full.
Heav'n her Eridanus no more shall boast,
Whose fame in thine, like lesser currents, lost.

VOL. II. V

APPENDIX.

Page 46, Vol.11.
Paraphrase of the 137th Psalm: alluding to the
Captivity and Ill-treatment of the Welsh Bards
by King Edward I— Vide E. Evans.
Sad near the willowy Thames we stood,
And curs'd th' inhospitable flood.
Tears, such as patriots weep, 'gan flow,
The silent eloquence of woe,
When Cambria rush'd into our mind,
And pity with just vengeance join'd ;
Vengeance, to injur'd Cambria due,
And pity, O ye bards ! to you.
Silent, neglected, and unstrung,
Our harps upon the willows hung,
That " softly sweet, in Cambrian measures,
" Us'd to soothe our souls to pleasures ;"
When lo! uV insulting foe appears,
And bids us dry our useless tears.
" Resume your harps" (the Saxons cry)
il And change your grief to songs of joy ;
" Such as old Taliessin sang,
" What time your native mountains rang
u2

292 APPENDIX.
" With his rude strains, and all around
tl Seas, rivers, woods, retui'n'd the sound."
What! shall the Saxons hear us sing ?
With Cambrian strains your vallies ring ?
No. — let old Conwy cease to flow !
Back to her source Sabrina go !
Let huge Plinlimmon hide his head ;
Or let the tyrant strike me dead,
If I attempt to sing a, song,
Unmindful of my country's wrong ! —
What! shall an haughty king command
A Cambrian hymn, in a strange land ?
May my right hand first wither'd be,
Or e'er I touch a string for tbee,
Proud monarch ! nay, may instant death
Arrest my tongue, and stop my breath,
If I attempt to sing a song,
Unmindful of my country's wrong !
Thou God of vengeance ! dost thou sleep,
When thy insulted Druids weep,
The victors' jest, the Saxons' scorn,
Unheard, ynpity'd, and forlorn ?
Bare thy red arm , thou God of ire,
And set their boasted Tower on fire ! —
Remember our inhuman foes,
When the first Edward furious rose,
And, like a whirlwind's rapid sway,
Swept armies, cities, bards away !
High on a rock, o'er Conwy's flood,
The lasjt surviving poet stood,

APPENDIX. 293
And curs'd the tyrant as he pass'd,
' With cruel pomp, and murd'rous haste.
What now avail our tuneful strains,
'Midst savage taunts and biting chains ?
Say, will the lark, imprison'd, sing
So sweet, as when on tow'ring wing
He wakes the songsters of the sky,
And tunes his notes to liberty ?
Ah no ! the Cambrian lyre no more
Shall sweetly sound on Arvon's shore :
No more the silver harp be won,
Ye muses, by your favourite son ;
(Or I, even I, by glory fir'd,
Had to the honour'd prize aspir'd.)
No more shall Mona's oaks be spar'd,
Nor Druids' circle be rever'd ;
On Conwy's banks, and Menai's streams,
The solitary bittern screams ;
Where Lewellyn kept his court,
Wolves and ill-omen'd birds resort :
There oft, at midnight's silent hour,
Near yon ivy-mantled tow'r,
By the glow-worm's yellow fire,
Tuning his romantic lyre,
Gray's pale spectre seems to sing —
" Ruin seize thee, ruthless kin6!"

294 APPENDIX.
A General Bill of all the Christnings and Burials
from December 11, 1787, to December 16, 1788.
According to the Report made to the King's 3Iosl
Excellent Majesty, by the Company of Parish-
Clerks of London, Sfc. But.
St. Alban in Wood-street  15
Alhallows Barkin  85
Alhallows in Bread-street  9
Alhallows the Great  39
Alhallows in Honey-lane 
Alhallows the Less  7
Alhallows in Lombard-street  9
Alhallows Staining  11
Alhallows on London Wall  23
St. Alphage near Sion College  17
St. Andrew Hubbard 
St. Andrew Undershaft  13
St. Andrew by the Wardrobe  23
St. Ann within Aldersgate  S3
St. Ann in Black Friars  66
St. Anthony, vulgarly Antholin  8
St. Augustin, vulgarly Austin  13
St. Bartholomew by Exchange  6
St. Benedict, vulgarly Bennet Fink  11
St. Bennet Gracechurch  ¦. 9
St. Bennet at Paul's Wharf  35
St. Bennet Sherehog  .'. 
St. Botolph at Billingsgate  5
Christ Church parish  ,  115

APPENDIX. 295
Bur.
St. Christopher's parish - 
St. Clement near Eastcheap  9
St. Dionis Backchurch  15
St. Dunstan in the East  46
St. Edmund the King  10
St. Ethelburga's parish  13
St. Faith under St. Paul's  31
St. Gabriel in Fenchurch-street  10
St. George in Botolph-lane  7
St. Gregory by St. Paul's  56
St. Helen near Bishopsgate  9
St. James in Duke's Place  7
St. James at Garlickhith  8
St. John Baptist by Dowgate  15
St. John the Evangelist 
St. John Zachary  ,  6
St. Katherine Coleman  21
St. Katherine Creechurch  34
St. Laurence Jewry  19
St. Laurence Pountney  11
St. Leonard in Eastcheap  2
St. Leonard in Foster-lane 
St. Magnus by London-bridge  5
St. Margaret in Lothbury  22
St. Margaret Moses 
St. Margaret in New Fish-street  6
St. Margaret Pattens  1
St. Martin in Ironmonger-lane  1
St. Martin within Ludgate  11
St. Martin Orgars  6

296 APPENDIX. Bur.
St. Martin Oufwich  6
St. Martin Vintrey  28
St. Mary Abchurch  12
St. Mary Aklermanbury  21
St. Mary Alclermary  5
St. Mary Le Bow in Cheapside  19
St. Mary Botha w at Dowgate  2
St. Mary Colechurch  1
St. Mary Hill near Billingsgate  30
St. Mary Magdalen in Milk-street 
St. Mary Magdalen Old Fish-street .... 27
St. Mary Mounthaw  14
St. Mary Somerset  19
St. Mary Staining 
St. Mary Woolchurch 
St. Mary Woolnoth  18
St. Matthew in Friday-street  1
St. Michael Bassishaw  11
St. Michael in Cornhill  9
St. Michael in Crooked-lane  22
St. Michael at Queenhith  31
St. Michael Le Quern  1
St. Michael Royal  q
St. Michael in Wood-street  M  -
St. Mildred in Bread-street  g
St. Mildred in the Poultry  10
St. Nicholas Aeons  „  j
St. Nicholas Coleabby  ,. g
St. Nicholas Olave  g
St. Olave in Hart-street  .„  38

APPENDIX. 297
Bur.
St. Olave in the Old Jewry  5
St. Olave in Silver-street  18
St. Pancras in Pancras-lane 
St, Peter in Cheapside  10
St. Peter in Cornhill  16
St. Peter near Paul's Wharf  12
St. Peter Poor in Broad-street  8
St. Stephen in Coleman-street  50
St. Stephen in Walbropk  „  14
St. Swithin at London Stone  7
St. Thomas the Apostle  ;  4
Trinity Parish   8
St. Vedast, alias Foster  10
Christned in the 97 Parishes, within the Walls, 1148.
Buried, 1446.
St. Andrew in Holborn  760
St. Bartholomew the Great  40
St. Bartholomew the Less  11
St. Botolph by Aldersgate  156
St. Botolph by Aldgate  358
St. Botolph without Bishopsgate  306
St. Bridget, vulgarly St. Brides  175
St. Dunstan in the West  104
St. George in South wark  298
St. Giles by Cripplegate  230
St. John in Southwark  355
St. Olave in Soulhwark  320
St. Safiour in Southwark  439
• St. Sepulchre's Parish  33S

298 APPENDIX. Bur.
St. Thomas in Southwark  ..<  140
Trinity in the Minories  ,  16
Cbristned in the 16 Parishes without the Walls, 479 1.
Buried, 4040.
St. Ann in Middlesex.  ,..«  163
Christ Church in Surry  212
Christ Church in Middlesex  549
St. Dunstan at Stepney  , 406
St. George in Bloomsbury  222
St. George in Middlesex  550
St. George by Queen's square  217
St. Giles in the Fields  1180
St. James at Clerkenwell  778
St. John at Clerkenwell  56
St. John at Hackney  233
St. John at Wapping  127
St. Katherine near the Tower  148
St. Leonard in Shored itch  750
St. Luke in Middlesex  509
St. Mary at Islington  220
St: Mary at Lambeth  680
St. Mary Magdalen Bermondsey  525
St. Mary at Newington  366
St. Mary at Rotherhith  216
St. Mary at Whitechapel  748
St. Matthew at Bethnal Green  149
St. Paul at Shadwell  407
Christned in the 23 Out Parishes in Middlesex and
Surry, 8980.— Buried, 9411.

APPENDIX. 299
Bur.
St. Ann in Westminster  448
St. Clement Danes  326
St. George by Hanover square  1128
St. James in Westminster  838
St. John Evangelist in Westminster .. 152
St. Margaret in Westminster  766
St. Martin in the Fields  858
St. Mary le Strand  98
The Precinct of the Savoy  69
St. Paul in Covent Garden  117
Christned in the 10 Parishes in the City and Liberties
of Westminster, 4640.— Buried, 4800.

The Diseases and Casualties this Year.

Abortive and Stillborn 713'
Abscess  11
Aged  1424
Ague 
Apoplexy and Sud- \
denly  '
Asthma and Phthi- 1
sick  J
Bedridden  6
Bleeding  5
Bloody Flux  1
Bursten and Rupture 12
Cancer  76

7
229 488

Canker 
Chicken Pox  2
Childbed  197
Cold  6
Colick, Gripes, and ^
Twisting of the > 14
Guts  J
Consumption  5085
Convulsions  44S5
Cough, and Hoop- \ 2Qg
ing Cough .... J
Diabetes 
Dropsy  1021

300

APPENDIX.

»t, _.
ithel

2769

2
14
45 5S

59

Evil  11
Fever, Malignant
Fever, Scarlet
Fever, Spotted
Fever, and Pur
ples 
Fistula 
Flux 
French Pox 
Gout  « 
Gravel, Stone, and 7
Strangury .... J
Grief 
Head-ach 
Headmouldshot Horshoehead
and Water in
Head ...
Jaundies . . .
ImposthumeInflammation  229
Itch 
Leprosy 
Lethargy  2
Livergrown  5
Lunatick  46

4453 1

Measles  55
Miscarriage 
Mortification  218
Palsy  62
Pleurisy  23
Quinsy  1
Rash  3
Rheumatism 
Ri.sing of the Lights
Scald Head 
Scurvy  10
Small Pox  1101
Sore Throat  13
•Sores and Ulcers . . 18
St. Anthony's Fire . . 2
St oppage in the Sto- } Q
mach  '
' Surfeit  3
Swelling 
Teeth  446
Thrush  34
Tympany  1
Voniiting and Loose- \
ness  3
Worms  7

Broken Limbs
Bruised .....

Burnt  13
Drowned  119

APPENDIX.

301

Excessive Drinking
Executed* 
Found Dead 
Fractured 
Frighted 
Killed by Falls and
several other Ac- <-
cidents  *
Killed themselves . .
Licked by a mad 1
Dog  5

9 7
12 1

67

13

MurderedOverlaidPoisoned Scalded . .
SmotheredStarved . .
Suffocated

232 5 1
53

Christned

Buried

C Males   9892 )
I Females  9667 i
S Males  9962 )
I Females  9735 )

Total 266

In all 19,559

In all 19,697

Whereof have died,

Under two years of ) c _<,
age  i
Between two and five 1522
Five and ten  667
Ten and twenty .... 866"
Twenty and thirty . . 1552
Thirty and forty .. 2015
Forty and fifty  2086
Fifty and sixty  1698
Sixty and seventy . . 1481
Seventy and eighty 1145

Eighty and ninety . .
Ninety and a hundred
A hundred 
A hundred and one
A hundred and two
A hundred and three
A hundred and four
A hundred and five
A hundred and six
A hundred and thir- )
teen  '

460 55 72 1

Increased in the burials this year, 348.
* There have been executed in Middlesex and Surry, 35 ; of which
number (7 only) have been reported as such within the Bills of Mor
tality.

302 APPENDIX.
It is the opinion of Mr. Richardson, who has served the
parish offices, that there are near as many buried from Lon
don, at different burial-grounds, without as within the above
bills, unnoticed here. — Burying grounds without the bills,
close to or in London: — Bunhill fields — Lady Huntingdon's,
Spa-fields — Tottenham-court road. Many more such, be
sides Marylebone and Pancras.

INDEX.

Acon, St. Thomas of, his hospital, ii. 214
Adelphi, i. 204
Addison, his fine reflection, i. 116
Admiralty Office, i. 158
Admonition to dying criminals, i. 340
African House, ii. 232
Agriculture among the Britons, i. 2
Alban's, St. church, i. 348
 street, i. 192
Albemarle, or Newcastle-house, i. 304
Aldersgate, i. 323, 341
Aldgate, ii. 2
Alfred makes London the capital of all England, i. 20
Allington, sir Richard, his monument, i. 241
Almonry, i. 123
Amen Corner, ii. 124
Andrew's, St. church, Holborn, i. 267
Anjou, due de, i. 145
Antiquities, i. 15, ii. 274
Apothecaries' Hall, i. 330
Arundel Palace, i. 220
Archery, a splendid match of, i. 378
Artillery-ground, i. 369
Arragon, Catharine of, ii. 29

30A INDEX.
Arundel, Philip carl of, beheaded, ii. 40
Astley's Theatre, i. 54
Asylum for girls, i. 53
Ave Maria Lane, ii. 124
Augustines, House of the, ii. 255
Aylesbury-house, i. 300
Aylif, his epitaph, i. 352
Bagnio for bathing, i. 338
Balmerino, lord, beheaded, ii. 32
Bancroft, sir Richard, his tomb, ii. 268
Bank of England, ii. 237
Banquetting-house, i. 150
Barber-surgeons' Hall, i. 350
Barbican, or watch-tower, i. 14, 345
Barnard's Inn, i. 262
Barking, All Hallows, church of, ii. 15
Bartholomew the Great, St. church of, i. 276
¦  Hospital, i. 277
Bartholomew Fair, i. 269 *'¦
Bath's Inn, i. 219
Baynard Castle, ii. 114
Bear-garden, i. 62
Beauchamp, sir John, ii. 174
Beaufort-buildings, i. 207
Beaumont Inn, ii. 110
Beaufoy, his wine brewery, i. 46
Bedford-house, i. 252 :.

row, i. 254

Belle Savage, i. 332
Berkshire-house, i. 186

INDEX. 305
V
Bermondsey Abbey, i. 80
— —  street, i. 81
Bethlehem hospital, i. 365
 two fine figures at the entrance,
i. 367
Billingsgate, ii. 70
Bills of mortality, ii. 294
Birchin-lane, ii. 276
Bishopsgate, i. 321,379
Blackfriars-bridge, i. 320
Black Friars, the House of the, i. 325, 328
Blackwall, ii. 55
BlackwaU's-hall, ii. 213
Blood, colonel, drags the duke of Ormorid from his
coach, i. 191
 — attempts to steal the crown, ii. 34
Bloomsbury, i. 252
Blount, sir Richard, ii. 33
Blunt, lord Mountjoy, i. 281
Boadicia makes a sudden revolt against the Romans,
i. 8
Boar's Head tavern, Eastcheap, ii. 85
Bolt-court, i. 310
Bond-street, i. 176
Botolph, St. church of, ii. 3
Bow church, ii. 184
Brandon, duke of Suffolk, his palace, i. 57
Brembre, sir Nicholas, i. 282
Breweries, ii. 50
Bride's, St. church, i. 312
-.  Well, i. 313
VOL. II. X

306 INDEX.
Bridewell, i. 313
—  portraits there, i. 317
Bridgewater, earl of, his house, i. 346
 square, i. 346
British Museum, i. 253
Britons in early ages form themselves in clans for mu
tual protection, i.'l
Brook-house, i. 260
Brown, -sir Thomas, i. 182
Bruce, sir Edward, his monument, i. 240
Buckingham-house, i. 188
Buckingham, George Villiers duke of, i. 200
Bucklesbury, ii. 220
Bull-and-mouth street, i. 344
Bullen, Anna, ii. 28, 197
Burdet, Thomas, beheaded, i. 283
Burley, sir Simon, executed, ii. 25
Burleigh-house, i. 211
Burlington-house, i. 175
Burying-.place of the Romans at Spitllefields, i. 16
Busby, Dr. his monumeut, i. 101
Bust of Charles the First by Bernini, i. 135
Cade, Jack, forced his way. into London, i. 5
 his rebellion, ii. 37
Campeggio, cardinal, i. 327
Canon-row, i. 140
Carew, sir Nicholas, ii. 4
Carteret, Philip, his monument, i. 115
Castilian, rights of the, ii. 114
Catherine's, St. hospital of, ii. 48

INDEX. 307
Catherine's, St. church of, ii. 49
Catherine Cree, St. church of, ii. 232
Cavalini, Peter, i. 94
Caxton, William, i. 123
Challengers of England, i. 201
Chancery -lane, i. 238
Chapter-house, i. 120, ii. 135
Charing-cross, i. 159
Charles the First, his execution at Whitehall, i. 151
Charter-house yard,* i. 289
Charter-house, i. 289
 portraits there, i. 295
Chauntry at Westminster Abbey, i. 109
Cheapside, ii. 177
Chester Inn, i. 213
Chichester, bishop of, his house, i. 242 -
¦  Rents, i. 243
Chichely ,"Henry, improves Lambeth palace, i. 29
Child, Mr. the banker, ii. 181
Christ church, i. 279 »*'
Citizens of London, noblemen descended from, ii. 186
Clare-market, i. 247
 earl of, his house, i. 247
Clarendon, earl of, his house, i. 190
Clement's Inn, i. 224
Clement Danes, St. i. 225
Clerkenwell church, i. 302
 green, i. 304
Clifford's Inn, i. 238
Clink, Southwark, i. 71
Coade's, Mrs. artificial stone manufactory, i. 45
x2 K

308

INDEX.

Cock-lane ghost, i. 268
Cockspur-street, its ancient state, i. 170
Coemetery found in digging the foundation of St,
Paul's, i. 15
Cold Harbour, ii. 94
College of Physicians, ii. 124
Colwall, Henry, his museum, ii. 260
Conway-house, i. 247
Convent-garden, i. 196
Cornwallis, archbishop, i. 32
Corsica, king of, his poverty, i. 179
Court of Requests, Westminster, i. 131
Coutts, Mr. banker, ii. 182, 196
Coventry, John and William, ii. 185
house, i. 173
Coya Shawsware, his tomb, ii. 4
Craven, lord, i. 164
 house, i. 222
 buildings, i. 223
Cripplegate, i. 349
¦ ¦ " ' . — - — church, i. 349
Cromwell, earl of Essex, ii. 8, 30
Cromwell's, Oliver, house, i. 301
Crosbie-house, ii. 262
 square, ii. 263
Cross, Cheapside, ii. 192
Crulched Friars, ii. 10
Cuper's Gardens, i. 49
Custom-house, ii. 64
Cutler, sir John, ii. 125

INDEX. 309
Darcie, Thomas, lord, ii. 3
Denmark-house, ii. 279
Devereux, earl of Essex, beheaded, ii. 31
Devil tavern, i. 237
Devonshire-square, i. 373
Devonshire-house,, i. 180
Dog-house, i. 362
Dominicans or Black Friars, their former residence,
i. 243
Donne, Dr. his tomb, ii. 146
.Dowgate, ii. 99
Draper's-hall, ii. 253
Drury-house, i. 222
Dudley, Alice, dutchess of, her house, i. 250
Duke's-place, i. 381
 — priory, i. 382
¦  :  Jews' synagogue, i. 383
Dunstan's, St. church, i. 307
Durham-yard, i. 200, 204
 palace, a magnificent feast there, i. 201
 mint established there, i. 203
Eastcheap, ii. 84
'Edward the Confessor rebuilds Westminster Abbey,
i. 91
 the First, his tomb, i. 102
¦  the Third, his shrine, i. 105
 the Fifth and his brother, their tomb, i. 110
Elizabeth, queen, her tomb, i. 113
 her amusements at the Tilt-yard,
i. 143

310 INDEX.
Elizabeth, queen, her library, i. 145
 her insolent letter, i. 263
Ely-house, i. 263
— - chapel, i. 265
Epitaph, a pretty one, on Richard Humble, i. 73
Essex-house, i. 226
Excise-office, ii. 262
Execution, a cruel one, ii. 6
Exeter-house, i. 211,225
 'Change, i. 212
Falconbridge, Bastard, defeated, ii. 3
Fatal Vespers, ninety-four persons killed, i. 330
Faux, Guy, i. 44, 133
Fife, earl of, house, Privy-garden, i. 155
Finsbury-square, i. 364
Fire of London, in 1666, ii. 86
Fish brought to London, ii. 71
 varieties of, ii. 74
Fishmonger's Hall, ii. 92
Fitz-alwyn, first lord-mayor, i. 23
Fitzalan, Richard, beheaded, ii. 25
Fleet-ditch, i. 318
 prison, i. 321
 infamous marriages there, i. 322
Fletcher, John, the dramatic poet, i. 73
Forest, an immense one on the side of the Thames,
i. 4
Fort at Hyde-park Corner, raised by the citizens,
i. 185
Furnival's Inn, i. 261

INDEX. 311
Garrick, ii. 10
Garter-place, i. 347
Garth, sir Samuel, his lines on queen Anne's statue,
i. 170
Gates of London for the military roads, i. 14
George's, St. hospital, i. 185
George, St. Bloomsbury, church of, i. 256
George's, St. church, Southwark, i. 57
Gerard, his plot against Cromwell, i. 205
Giles's, St. church, i. 248
 yard, piles of coffins there, i. 250

— bowl, i. 251

Giltspur-street Compter, i. 337
Gisors, sir John, ii. 175
Globe Playhouse, i. 86
Godfrey, sir Edmonbury, his murder, i. 216
Gog and Magog, ii. 202
Goodman's-fields, ii. 9
¦  playhouse there, ii. 10
Golden-square, i. 175
Goldsmiths' Hall, ii. 178
 ancient bankers, ii. 180
Gower, the poet, his tomb, i. 67
Graces, St. Mary of the, church of, ii. 63
Gray's Inn, i. 257
 lane, i. 258
Greek-street, i. 179
Green Park, i. 184
Gresham, sir Thomas, ii. 227, 270
 — — .  his house, ii. 259
Grey Friars, ii. 160

312 INDEX.
Grey, Henry, duke of Suffolk, ii. 161
Grub-street, i. 359
Gryffydd, sir Rhys, ii. 14
Guildhall, ii. 200
¦  great feast there, ii. 203
Guy, Thomas, his hospital, i. 76
 his statue, i. 79
Hanover-square, i. 176, 178
Hastings, lord, beheaded, ii. 39
Hatton-garden, i. 262
Hatton, sir Christopher, i. 262
Haymarket, i. 170
Helen's, St. priory of, ii. 265
» ¦¦  church of, ii. 266
Henrietta Maria walks in penance to Tyburn, i. 252
Henry the Fifth, bis tomb, i. 108
 the Seventh's Chapel, i. 110
—  . — ¦ — tomb, i. 11
Henry the Fiflb prohibits long beards, i. 244
Herald's College, ii. 173
Holborn, i. 268
Holland, earl of Exeter, his tomb, ii. 50
Hollis, Francis, his tomb, i. 1.01
Horse-guards, i. 157
Houblon, James, ii. 238
Houndsditch, i. 381
House of Commons, i. 134
Howard, Henry, earl of Surrey, ii. 16
 Catharine, ii. 28
Hudson's-bay House, ii. 280

INDEX. * 313
Hudson the dwarf and Evans the giant, i. 337
Hungerford-stairs, i. 1 98
 market, i. 199
Hungerford, lady Alice, i. 283
Hunn, Richard, hanged, ii. 137
Hyde-park Corner, i. 185
India House, ii. 13, 231
Ingot found in digging a foundation for the Board of
Ordnance, i. 12
Inigo Jones, i. 152
Ironmongers' Hall, ii. 280
Ivy-bridge, Strand, i. 206
James in the Wall, the chapel of, i. 358
 the First rebuilds Whitehall, i. 150
 the Second, his statue at Whitehall, i. 157
James's, St. palace, i. 162
I  the most convenient court in Eu
rope, i. 166
James's, St. church, i. 193
Jermyn-street, i. 192
Jerusalem-chamber, i. 121
Jerusalem, St. John of, priory of, i. 297
John, St. church of, Westminster, i. 88
John's, St. square, i. 300
 gate, i. 300
Johnson, Dr. Samuel, his residence, i. 310
Kent, the first county civilized, i. 4
Kilmarnock, earl of, beheaded, ii. 32

314 INDEX.
King, sir Edmund, ii. 127
King's-bench Prison, i. 58
 Exchange, or Old Change, ii. 175
¦  Artiree, ii. 237
 priutirig-ofnce, i. 330
Knights Templars, i. 227
Knight-rider-street, ii. 174
Koningsmark, count, i. 291
Lacy, Henry, earl of Lincoln, builds Lincoln Inn,
i. 243
Lambeth, i. 26
 Palace, i. 29
 Church, i. 36
-  Marsh, i. 45
Lancaster, John duke of, i. 263
Laud, bishop, i. 34, ii. 232
Lauderdale-house, i. 344
Laurence-lane, ii. 195
Law courts, Westminster-hall, i. 128
Leadenhall, ii. 229
Leather-sellers' Hall, ii. 265
Lee, sir Henry, i. 147
Leicester-square, i. 171
 fields and house, i. 171
Lever, sir Ashton, his museum, i. 172
Library of Christ-church,
Lime-street, ii. 236
Limehouse, ii. 58
Unacre, Dr. ii. 176
Lincoln's Inn, i. 243

INDEX. 315
Lincoln's Inn Chapel, i. 244
 Fields, i. 245
Lindesey-house, i. 246
Lion's Inn, i. 224, 257
Lockyer, a celebrated quack, i. 72
Loke, or hospital of Southwark, i. 84
Lollards' Tower, ii. 136
Lombard-street, ii. 269
London, its judicious situation, i. 24
 first mentioned in the reign of Tiberius, i. 7
 Wail, i. 373
 House, i. 342
 Tower of, ii. 17
 bridge, ii. 75
 houses on, ii. 78

- fire on, ii. 81

London stone, i. 5
Long-acre, i. 248
Longchamp, William, ii. 21
Lords, house of, i. 130
Lovat, lord, beheaded, ii. 33
Ludgate, i. 331
Luke's, St. hospital, i. 368
,  ¦ church, i. 369

M

Lumley, John lord, his house, ii. 12
Luther Martin, i. 36
Lying-in hospital, Westminster, i. 51
Mabuse, his picture of Adam and Eve, i. 168
Magdalen, St. Mary, the church of, i. 81
,  hospital, i. 53

316 INDEX.
Magnus, St. church of, ii. 84
Malefactors used to receive a bowl of ale at St. Giles's,
i. 248
Mansion House, ii. 222
Margaret's, St. church, i. 123
Mark-lane, ii. 15
Marlborough -house, i. 169
Marshalsea prison, i. 60
Martin's, St. church, i. 198.
 le Grand, St. ii. 182
Mawbey, sir Joseph, his distilleries, i. 50
May-fair, i. 176
 pole once in the Strand, i. 221
Mazes, Southwark, i. 83
Mercers' company, ii. 216
Merchant-Taylors' Hall, ii. 240
 School, ii. 244
Mews, the, i. 161
Michael, St. cbapel,, Aldgate, ii. 1
Michael's, St. church of, ii. 228
Middleton, sir Hugh, i. 306, ii. 178
Military Yard, i. 173
Mill-bank, i. 87
Minories, ii. 8
Mint, the, in Southwark, ii. 57
Monmouth, duke of, ii. 31
Monk, duke of Albemarle, his virtue, ii. 92
Montfichet, the castle of, i. 326
Monument, the, ii. 87
1 of Yivius Marcianus, a Roman soldier,
i. 17

INDEX. 317
Moorfields, i. 360
Montague-house, i. 253
Mounthaw, St. Mary, church of, ii. 110
More, sir Thomas, ii. 16, 28
Mortality, bills of, ii. 60
Mortimer, Roger, hung at Tyburn, i. 282
 sir John, i. £83
Murillo, a fine Madonna by him, i. 36
Mysteries, or holy plays, ii. 148
Nag's Head tavern, ii. 194
Navy Office, the old, ii. 13
Nell Gwynne, her house, i. 154
New Exchange, i. 205
New Inn, i. 224
New River Head, i. 305
Newgate, i. 335
 prison, i. 334
 :  destroyed by the rioters, i. 335
Northumberland-house, i. 196
 earl of, i. 203
 house, a former one, i. 14
 Henry, earl of, ii. 39, 42
 place, ii. 280
Olave's, St. church, i. 82
Old Palace Yard, i. 133
Old Temple, near Chancery-lane, i. 258
Old Bailey, i. 333
Old Jewry, ii. 217
Oldcastle, sir John, his execution, i. 249

318

INDEX.

Ormond-place, ii. 176
Osborne, Edward, his brave action, ii. 82
Overbury, sir Thomas, ii. 26
Overie, St. Mary, i. 66
Oxford-street, i. 252
Painted Chamber, i. 132
Painter-Stainers' Company, ii. Ill
Palace-yard, i. 125
Papey, for infirm priests, ii. 258
Paraphrase of the 137th psalm, ii. 291
Paris-garden, ancient play-house there, i. 61
Parliaments sat in Westminster-hall, i. 127
Paul's, St. cathedral, ii. 132
 :  destroyed by fire, ii. 134
 tombs in the former church, ii.
140
—  its altar, ii. 147
 -¦' its spire burnt, ii. 164
Paul's Cross, or pulpit, ii. 151
 Walkers, ii. 168
Paul Pindar's house, i. 381
Paulet-house, i. 247, 253
Peerless-pool, i. 368
Pembroke, earl of, his monument in Temple church,
i. 232
Pennant, William, i. 274
Perrot, sir John, ii. 40
Perry's Dock, ii. 55
Pest-house Field, i. 175
Peter's, St. at Rome, its dimensions, ii. 167

INDEX. 319
Petre, sir William, i. 342
Petrus Vincula, St. church of, ii. 27
Philippa, queen, ii. 49
Physicians, the former college of, ii. 176
Piccadilly, i. 174, 180
Pickering, sir William, his tomb, ii. 266
Picture, a large one at Christ-church, i. 286
Pindar, sir Paul, his house, ii. 264
Pinners' Hall, ii. 257
Plague in London, ii. 89
Playhouse, Portugal-street, i. 246
Pole, William de la, his house, ii. 276
Pope's Head tavern, ii. 229
Portraits at St. James's palace, i. 166
 at Lambeth palace, i. 33
Post Office, ii. 270
Powis-house, i. 247
Princes-chamber, Westminster, i. 131
Privy-gardens, i. 155
Pudding-lane, ii. 86
Puddle Dock, ii. 124
Queen Anne's statue at St. Paul's, ii. 170
Queen's library, i. 169
Queen-street, i. 247
Queenhithe, ii. 109
Quintin, St. battle of, ii. 162
Radcliff, ii. 57
 highway, ii. 62
Rag Fair, ii. 63

320 INDEX.
Raleigh, sir Walter, his tomb, i. 124
Ramsay, Mary, her bounty, i. 288
Red-lion-square, i. 254
Redcross-street, i. 349
Refuge, Westminster Abbey, a place of, i. 91
Richard the Second, his feast in Westminster-hall,
i. 126
 his tomb, i. 106
Ringed-hall, ii. 220
Rolls, the, i. 239
 chapel, built by Inigo Jones, i. 240
Roose, a cook, boiled to death in Smithfield, i. 274
Romans enlarge London, i. 9
Roman street, ii. 273
Rotherhithe, i. 84
Row, sir Thomas, ii. 242
Royal Exchange, ii. 224
Royal Society, origin of, ii. 260
Rnfus, William, repairs the Tower, ii. 20
Russell, lord, i. 187, 259
 beheaded, i. 246, ii. 40
Sacheverel, Dr. i. 268
Sackville, sir Edward, i. 240
Salisburv-court, i. 311
Sanctuary, Westminster, i. 122
Saviour's, St. Dock, i. 83
Savoy, i. 208
 church, i. 210
Scarborough, Dr. his picture, i. 355
Scotland-yard, a magnificent palace once there, i. 158

INDEX. 321
Scott, Robert, his bust, i. 39
Scroop's Inn, i. 262
Sculptures, legendary ones in Westminster Abbey, i. 96
Seeker, archbishop, i. 32
Seething-lane, ii. 17
Sergeant's Inn, Fleet-street, i. 309
¦  i. 238
Seldon, buried in the Temple church, i. 233
Sepulchre, St. the church of, i. 339
Sessions-house, Old Bailey, i. 333
Seymour, baron, beheaded, ii. 31
Shad well, ii. 57
Shaftsbury, lord, i. 313
Sharrington-house, ii. 15
Shaw, Dr. preaches at Paul's Cross, ii. 159
Shelley-house, i. 345
Shirley, sir Robert, ii. 5
Shore, Jane, i. 377
 her penance, ii. 155
Shoreditch, i. 377
Shrine of Edward the Confessor at Westminster Abbey,
i. 94
Sion College, i. 357
Smithfield, i. 269
¦ tilts and tournaments there, i. 269
 martyrs burned there, i. 271
Society of Antiquaries, i. 218
Soho-square, i. 178
Somerset, his design against Westminster Abbey, i. 118
 the protector, his daring conduct, i. 214
 house, i. 215
vol. ii. r

S22 INPEX.
South-sea House, ii. 251
Southwark, i. 55
South wark-park, i. 71
Southampton-buildings, i. 259
 Thomas, earl of, i. 259
Spalato, archbishop of, ii. 215
Speed, John, ii. 249
Spittle, St. Mary, i. 375
Spittlefields, its extensive manufactories, i. 376
Stafford, William, lord, i. 187
Standard in Cheapside, ii- 197
Staple's Inn, i.,261
Star-chamber, i. 132
Stationers' Company and Hall, ii. 132
Statue of Charles the First at Charipg-cross, i. 160
Steel-yard, ii. 95
Stephen's, St. chapel, its remains, i. 134
Stews, licensed by government, i. 64
Stibben-heath, ii. 54
Stocks-market, ii. 223
¦ Christopher le, church of, ii. 237
Stow, John, the historian, ii. 6, 236, 249
Strand made a street, i. 194
 bridge, i. 212
Stuart, Arabella, ii. 41
Sutton, Thomas, his charities, i. 291
¦  his portrait, i. 293
Surgeons' Hall, i. 334
Sydney, sir Philip, his tomb, ii. 144
Swithin's, St. lane, ii. 278
Talbot Inn, Borough, i. 85

INDEX. 323
Tart hall, i. 187
Taylors, distinguished ones, ii. 246
Temple-garden, i. 236
¦  bar, i. 227
¦ church and monuments, i. 230
 Middle, its magnificent hall, i. 234
 gate, i. 235
Thames, Us rise, ii. 281
 species of fish in it, ii. 284
 poem by Denham on the, ii. 288
Thanet-house, i. 343
Thavies Inn, i. 261
Theobald's-row, i. 255
Thomas, St. hospital, i. 75
Threadneedle-street, ii. 237
Three Cranes, ii. 101
Thynne, Thomas, his assassination, i. 191
Tilt-yard, i. 143
Timber-yards on the banks of the Thames, i. 50
Tombs at Westminster Abbey, i. 98
Tortoise, an old one, at Lambeth palace, A. 35
Tower, the, ii. 17
 White, ii. 18
 Caesar's, ii. 19
-,  the Traitor 's-gate, ii. 20
 Lions, ii. 22
 Royal, ii. 106
Tradescant, John, his curiosities, i. 40
Trehearne, John, his epitaph, i. 72
Tresilian, sir Robert, i. 282
Trevor, sir John, i. 242
v2

324 INDEX.
Trinity-house, ii. 67
Tudor, Owen, ii. 46
Tyler, Wat, ii. 37
Tyrconnel, dutchess of, i. 206
Vere, sir Francis, his monument, i. 101
Vinegar, great manufactory for making, i. 47
Vintners' Hall, ii. 162
Undershaft, St. Andrew, church of, ii. 234
Wal-brook, ii. 100
Walbrook, St. Stephen, church of, ii. 222
Walworth, sir William, i. 274
Walls of London, i. 323
¦  the ancient course of, i. II
Walsinghara, ii. 145
Wapping, ii. 56
Watling-street, ii. 175
Warwick-lane, ii. 130
 Guy, earl of, ii. 131
Wedgwood, his beautiful models, i. 179
Welby, Henry, i. 359
Welsh manuscripts, ii. 45
Westminster, i. 87
Westminster Abbey, i, 89
Westminster-hall, i. 125
 :  its dimensions, i. 127
 Charles the First tried there, i. 129
Westminster-bridge, i. 138
Winston, William, i. 268

INDEX. 325
Whitefield, reverend Mr. and the merry -andrew, i.362
Whittington, sir Richard, i. 336 ; ii. 104, 213
White, sir Thomas, his portrait, ii. 243
White Friars, i. 309
Whitehall palace, i. 141
 beautiful gate there by Holbein, i. 142
 palace, its painted ceiling, i. 150
Whitechapel, ii 6
Willoughby-house, i. 346
Wyat, sir Thomas,. his insurrection, i. 177, 332
Willoughby, sir Hugh, ii. 57
Wimbledon-house, i. 212
Winchester, bishop of, i, 70
 house, i. 71
¦  place, ii. 257
Window of St. Margaret's church, i. 124
Wines, British, from dried grapes, i. 46
Wood, Anthony, ii. 10
Worcester-place, ii. 108
Wren, sir Christopher, ii. 165
Wriothesley, earl of Southampton, his accident, ii.43
Wynkyn de Worde, i. 312
Yonge, John, his monument, i. 241
York-house, i. 200
 buildings, i. 200
THE END.

London: Printed by B. M'MUlan, J
Bw Street, Covent Garden. $

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER,
FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
VOL. I.

PACE
Westminster Hall, to face the Title 
Plan of London,  1
Fitzalwyn, first Lord Mayor,  23
Lambeth Palace,  29
Plan of Westminster,  87
Westminster Abbey,  89
Painted Chamber,  „  132
Old Gate at Whitehall,  '.  142
St. Jamesjs Palace,  162
Somerset House,  215
Temple Bar,  227
Ely Place,  263
Sir William Walworth,  *  274
Remains of the Cloisters -of Bartholomew Priory, 276
Gate of St. Bartholomew's Hospital,  277
Charter House Great Hall, ...  289
St. John's Gate,  300
Oliver Cromwell's House,  305
Sir Hugh Middleton,  306
Newgate,  335
Giltspur-street Compter,  337

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. PAGE
Shaftesbury House,  343
Figures at Bethlem Hospital,  367
Paul Pindar's House,  381

VOL. II.
Remains of St. Michael's Chapel, Aldgate, to face
the Title,  '. 
Tower of London,  17
Custom House,  64
Trinity House,  <..... 67
View of the Fire of London,  86
Monument, ....  '.  87
Sir Richard Whittington,  104
Whittington's House,  105
St. Paul's Church,  165
Guildhall,  200
Mercers' Hall,  216
Mansion House, „  222
Portrait of Sir Thomas Gresham,  227
East India House,  231
¦  in its former state,  232
Bank of England,  237
Crosby House,  262

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