ADVENTURES IN THE
GREAT FORESTS

%

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

FROM THE COLLECTION MADE BY
CHARLES SHELDON B.A. 1890
OF BOOKS ON NATURAL HISTORY
EXPLORATION 'HUNTING & FISHING

GIFT OF FRANCIS P. GARVAN
B.A. 1897

The Tn.RESi made a determint.h sprinc.
While she was still in the air a couple of spears transfixed her, and then a shot
soon put her out of pain.

ADVENTURES

IN

THE GREAT FORESTS

ROMANTIC INCIDENTS & PERILS
OF TRAVEL, SPORT, AND EXPLORATION
THROUGHOUT THE WORLD

BY
H. W. G. HYRST
AUTHOR OF "ADVENTURES IN THE GREAT DESERTS,'
"CHASMA," fStc, &C.

WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON
SEELEY AND CO. LIMITED
38 Great Russell Street
1908

UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME
THE LIBRARY OF ADVENTURE
ROMANTIC INCIDENTS AND PERILS OF TRAVEL, SPORT,
AND ADVENTURE THROUGHOUT THE WORLD
Extra Crown Zvo. With many Illustrations
"Delightful books of adventure, beautifully printed and
tastefully got rap."— Educational Times.
By RICHARD STEAD, B.A., F.R.HistS.
ADVENTURES ON THE HIGH MOUNTAINS
By H. W. G. HYRST
ADVENTURES IN THE GREAT FORESTS
By RICHARD STEAD, B.A, F.R.Hist.S.
ADVENTURES ON THE GREAT RIVERS
By H. W. G. HYRST
ADVENTURES IN THE GREAT DESERTS
SEELEY &• CO. LIMITED

PREFACE
The period from 1760 to 1860, to which most of the
following adventures belong, may be termed the golden
age of modern exploration, at least as regards forests.
For to-day railways and towns occupy many of the
forest-lands here described, and the forest-paths that
once led to a morass full of strange life, or to the hiding-
place of savages or robbers or refugees, have become well-
frequented roads. The wild beasts and the savages, too,
have disappeared, or have been forced to hide their heads
in what is left of their old homes, just as the rabbits in
an English cornfield retreat farther and farther to the
centre before each fresh sweep of the reaping-machine.
The question naturally arises, how long will that central
retreat be allowed to exist ? How long will it be before
the surviving forests of the world fall before the axes
of settlers who think only of cleared lands, or of capitalists
coveting valuable timber, or material for paper ? " It is
said that seven acres of primeval forest are cut down to
supply the wood which is used up in making the paper
required for one day's issue of a certain New York journal."
So Mr. Scott Elliot tells us in his most fascinating volume,
The Romance of Plant Life.
A forest is like no other natural feature ; it is a forest
iii

PREFACE
only as long as man chooses to let it remain such. No
one will ever fill up the Amazon; if Mont Blanc were
built upon from summit to base it would still be a
mountain ; nor can any system of irrigation ever redeem
the Kalahari desert. But, at the present rate of re
morseless havoc, man may, in course of time, succeed
in converting forest land into something very like the
Kalahari; for diminished woodland means decrease of
rainfall and a parched and barren soil.
Nor is the woeful loss to be reckoned only in money
and land. Next to the sea, the forest is the true home
of romance ; its beauty, its silence, the shelter which it
affords to the fugitive, or the beast of prey, are full of
suggestiveness to the poet, the painter and the story-
writer. If the sportsman's remonstrances can, perhaps,
scarcely claim to be heard, there is the naturalist, who
speaks with authority, and in tones of deep regret.
For many reasons, therefore, the present destruction of
forests is to be deplored, and the stirring adventures
which fill this volume seem already to belong to a past,
or, at least, passing period of the world's story.

IV

CONTENTS

i
THE SLAVE WAR IN SURINAM PA0ES
Cruelties ofthe Dutch colonists — Major John Stedman — The revolt of
the negroes, 1772-1774— The Guiana forest— The march of the
Scottish Brigade through the forest — Fever, snake-bites, and
bullet-wounds — News of a fresh outbreak — Northwards through
the forest — Cutting a path through — On the track of the enemy
— The " wassy-wassy — A horrible discovery — Arrival of Major
Eughcop's force — The storm — Eughcop's expedition — The at
tack of the insurgents— Fighting in a forest swamp — Eeturn of
Eughcop— Condition of the negro prisoners — Stedman charged
with mutiny — The forest camp after Eughcop's death — End of
hostilities  13-25
II
IMPRISONED IN AN ISLAND FOREST
The Japanese a century ago — Captain Waasili Golownin and the
Eussian survey of the Kurile Islands — Victims to Japanese
treachery — The arrest — Taken to Hakodate — Golownin and his
crew sentenced to perpetual imprisonment — The forest prison ;
plans for escape — Ohlebnikoff's discovery — A disappointment,
and new plans — Flight — Pursuit — The cave — The wolves and
the bear — Hope in sight — Accident to the first lieutenant— A
race for freedom — The long-boat — The " slip " between "cup and
lip " — Eecapture and ultimate liberation .... 26-40
III
LOST IN A COLUMBIAN FOREST
Tho Columbian [forest — An autumn journey — An unlucky doze —
The deserted camp — Pursuit — The track lost — Alone and un
armed in the forest; — Wanted, a breakfast I — Help at hand —
Disappointment — The rattle-snake — Thirst — A meal of cold
water — A false alarm — Fruit diet — Frost and wolves — An en
counter with a wolf — The evil of thin soles — An unexpected
meal— The track at last — The Indian camp — Found ! . . 41-63
IV
THE WILD WHITE MAN
William Buckley, the wild white man of Port Phillip — The new penal
settlement— Escape of Buckley and his companions — The pursuit
— A dash for the forest — The marine — Buckley's awakening —
The savages — " Murrangurk " — Buckley becomes a wild man —
His life in the forest — News of some white strangers — A run
through the forest by night — Buckley's return to civilization 64-64
V

CONTENTS v
SPORT IN A CHILIAN FOREST PAOBJ
Thomas Sutcliffe— An eventful career— A forest near the Andes—
The hospitable hacienda— The "guasos"— After wild cattle—
Sutcliffe^ adventure with a bull and a puma— The bolas and its
uses— A day's hunting in the mountain forest — The guanaco, or
llama— A wild cat— A condor-trap — The trappers outwitted —
More condor-hunting : a novel method. .... 65-76
VI
FOREST WARFARE IN SOUTH AFRICA
The Kaffir outbreak of 1835— Sir James Alexander— D'Urban's puni
tive expedition— The forest of Cape Colony— The Hottentot—
The march through the forest— The Kaffir "sharp-shooters "—
A capture, and some alarming news — The forty-mile galloj) —
Alexander's night march back — A false alarm — Further news of
the enemy — Pursuit — The battle — Hintza's surrender, and be
haviour at the British camp — Kaffir perfidy — A dash for freedom
—The end of Hintza  77-87
VII
THE FOREST OF MOUNT TAURUS
The Pontic mountain forest — Its mineral wealth — The Chesney and
Estcourt exploring expedition — A morning climl) — The finest
view in Asiatic Turkey — Lost — Nature of the forest — A night
with the herdsmen — ' ' Hot coffee ! " — The reception at the inn —
Making a dash for safety — The house of Melangena Oghlu — The
incomprehensible " Frank" — Still without a guide — The Turco
mans and their dogs — Finding the way in the dark — The
Armenian monastery . . ... . 88-99
VIII
IN A NEW ZEALAND FOREST
The New Zealand forest — Frederick Edward Maning — The forest
settlement — Various claimants to land and purchase-money —
Servants and ' ' hangers-on " — Maori freebooters — Various visitors
— A fight with a Maori chief — The end of a thorough-paced
scoundrel — The " taboo" — The innocent offender — Boycotted —
Arrival of the " tohunga " — The taboo removed . . . 100-110
IX
A TEAK FOREST IN JAVA
The island of Java — The H. M.S. Fly expedition — Joseph Beete Jukes
and Captain Blackwood — Abundance of guides — Fear of tigers —
Oamping for the night — A vi9it from a leopard — A more terrible
visitant — A native killed — The mountain forest — Native dread
of mathematical instruments — A way-side village — The village
orchestra — The tiger-trap — Prickly heat and fever . 111-120
vi

CONTENTS

THE CHEETAH AND THE TIGRESS PAOIS
The forest of Central India — Captain von Orlich, the Prussian army
expert— The .trees of the Indian forest— The Eajah's hunting-
lodge — The cheetah — Awful prevalence of snakes — In ambush
for the antelope— The cheetah's failure — His success— A tiger-
hunt— The banyan tree — The elephants— The pursuit — The
tigress — And her death  121-131
XI
IN A CHINESE MOUNTAIN FOREST
Eobert Fortune, botanist and traveller — His journey to the tea-
plantations — Method of travelling — Cheering information — The
mountain forests — Discovery of the Cryplomeria Japanica — The
storm ; death on every side — The bell in the forest — A real
haven of refuge — The Buddhist monks — The wild boar — For
tune's narrow escape  132-142
XII
A NIOHT IN A BALTIC FOREST
The Eussian forests — William Eae Wilson's tour — A mysterious
driver — Prussian spies ! — The fight at the post-house, and its
cause — A new driver — "Wolves, fiends and thieves!" — The
wolves — A race for life — Eussian hospitality — The thieves — The
quick-witted driver  143-164
XIII
SIXTY YEARS AGO IN ABYSSINIA
Abyssinia, a land of mystery — Attempts to explore it — Mansfield
Parkyns — The Abyssinian native — Waylaid in the forest — How
to obtain a servant — The jackal — In a tree with a python — Los
ing the way — The appearance of tho forest — Ostriches — Hot
springs — Going lion-hunting — A community of monkeys — Wait
ing for the lion — And not killing him .... 156-165
XIV
AMONG THE BUSH-RANGERS
Australian forests — Lieutenant Henderson's journey up country —
Dangers of the forest — Among the timber-cutters — A solitary
ride — The empty hut — A forest of stone — A "burning moun
tain " — The shepherd's greeting — Another lonely ride — The real
bush-rangers — The pursuit — Horse-slaughtering . . . 166-176
vii

CONTENTS XY
TWO YEARS IN A FOREST 'BANCHO* PAOBS
British attempts at opening np the Central American mining
industry— Captain ByaWs researches— The Costa Eica forest—
An earthquake shock— "A volcano upside down "—Caught in
the bog — A new method of deer-stalking — A hypocritical ox —
"The king of the vultures" — A puma killed— Javalinos and
Savalinos — Besieged — Fight between two snakes . 177-188
XVI
A FOREST IN CALIFORNIA
The Californian gold fever — The journey to the gold-fields — Dangers
attendant on Chinese cookery — The desert in the forest — Dis
illusionment — The gold-fields— Shaw's departure, and life among
the backwoodsmen — Indian depredations — Two new friends —
The murdered colonists — A mission of vengeance — Tracking
Indians — Retributive justice — The property recovered and the
pursuers pursued  189-202
XTII
IN THE COUNTRY OF THE ' AMAZONS '
Dahomey — The Duncan mission — Commander Forbes, R.N. —
Native porters — A thunder-storm — A disagreeable awakening —
Wolves and cobras — Wolf-traps — Deer-shooting — The monkeys
and the leopard — Deserted and alone — Weight-carrying, seven
degrees above the equator — The mysterious volley — The
Amazons  203-211
XVIII
BrD-NTING FN A BENGAL FOREST
India as a forest-country — Forest of the delta of the Ganges — Major
Leveson — Difficulty in obtaining guides — Lost in the forest —
The two paths and the herdsmen — Reception at the native village
— Spies ! — A novel method of procuring guides — The eight days'
forest journey — Kogees — Handed over to another headman —
Further native notions of legal administration — Freed — Tiger-
shooting from a tree— Leveson " in a hole " . . 212-228
XIX
CJ THE BRAZILIAN SELVAS
A tour in the forests of the Amazon — Henry Walter Bates — From
Para to the Amazon — Scenery in the selvas — Tropical wonders 
A spider's meal— Ants— The " murderer "— Wallace and Bates
separate— Along the Tapajoa River— Fire-ants— A drunken
mulatto boatman — Another; with disastrous results  Narrow
escape of the baggage — A restless night in the forest — After
turtles— A curious arrow— Netting turtles— And alligators I 224-233
viii

CONTENTS

xx
AH Ar/VEHTT/HE WITH A BUFFALO
The Ceylon forests — Sir Samuel Baker— The Asiatic buffalo — A
tiring day in the forest — A risky minor exploration — The
" mud-bath " — The charge— The nerd dispersed — A second
charge, and its unexpected issue — Buffaloes' notion of comrade
ship— Pursuing the bull — Cutting off the retreat — A foolish
venture — Bullet-proof! — The hurt bullet — Baker's despair —
Unlooked-for utility of sixpences— The bull's last stand . 234-242
XXI
AMONG THE INDIANS AND^ZAHBOB OF NICARAGUA
The forests of the Mosquito short! — The late Ephraim Squier — The
American railway survey — How to obtain cocoa-nuts — An
invasion by soldier crabs — A tropical thunder-storm — The
floating roof — An unexpected dinner — A stroll in the forest —
Manzuw'Ma I — Within an inch of death —The friendly Indians —
Hunting the manatee — Gnn versus harpoon — Arrival at the
Zambo camp — Detained — Squier's plucky behaviour and clever
escape  243-267
XXII
IN EVANGELINE'S FOREST
The " forest primeval " of Nova Scotia — Lieutenant Hardy's hunting
expedition — Alone with a black bear — A sudden fright — The
falling tree — The solution of a mystery — The miners — " Shoot
ing" the Meductic Rapids — The explosion, and narrow escape
of the hunters — How to hunt the moose — How not to hunt
him !  258-267

XXIII
WITH THE WIM) BEASTS OF THE SIAMESE FORESTS
Henri Mouhot the French scientist — Journey through the forests of
the Me Kong basin — A Siamese forest and its wild animals —
The monkeys and the crocodile— Travelling by bullock-wagon
—Spiders, mosquitoes, and leeches — A more terrible foe — The
mysterious gun-report— Tho tiger — Warned to proceed no further
— Mouhot's perseverances — What the ants had done — The river
at last — The mission station — The wild tribes of the Uppr Me
Kong district — Hunting the rhinoceros — Ekphants in the
path  268-279
ix

CONTENTS XXIV
WITH GRANT IN BAST AFRICA PAGES
The Speke and Grant expedition, 1860-62 — Colonel James Augustus
Grant — A five months' separation — Grant as village doctor —
Getting the porters together — Ordered to pay a special "visit " —
Grant's refusal — The sudden attack in the forest — An unwilling
guest — The mob — Bestoration of part ofthe baggage — The king's
attitude towards the strangers — Return of some of the deserters
— Grant saves six lives — A message from Speke — The captain's
determination — The price of freedom — The departure, and
behaviour of the gun-men — Detained again — Another message
from Speke  280-293
XXY
LN THE LAND OF THE GORILLA
William Winwood Reade — Journey to the West Coast of Africa —
Ascent of the Gaboon River — The N'gumbi Forest — An elephant
"n'ghal" — The omnipotent "medicine-man" — The gorilla
dance — Hunting the gorilla — Disappointment — Under arrest —
The grand palaver — A timely interruption — Escape . . 294-305

xxn
AN ARTIST'S ADVENTURES LN SAVAGE AFRICA
Thomas Baines, special artist— The Chapmans' expedition to the
Victoria Falls — A forest on the Zambesi — Eland-shooting —
Baines as a naturalist — Killing a chameleon— The doings of the
"butcher-bird" — An alarming accident — Going to shoot a
giraffe, and killing a lion — Dangers of possessing an indolent
servant— Miraculous escape from an elephant— Two curious
trees — The natives growing formidable .... 306-317
XXVII
AMONG THE FOREST ARABS LN PALESTINE
The Holy Land as a forest country— The French mission scitntifau*
—An artificial pine forest-The hired horses of the East— Pursu
ing the truant-De Saulcy loses his way— How to deal with
^rtrV^f/ she£_Robbers-"Save us from our
£? a Z?^fd h? -k^-The forest of Rh6r Safieh-Gifts
rrom the Bedawtn— An anxious night—" Presents "—Yet more
presents-Exasperation-Turkiah cavalry to the rescue 318-330

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAOS
TUB TIOIIKBB MADE A DETKBMINED HPItINO (Boo p. 180) F-ro-attspieci
TUB BBAB WAH MAD Willi HUNOEB ... 36
a pooil hut effkotive weapon . .50
bolah-throwino. ..... 70
tub kino'm khoai'e . . . .86
tub maobi aimed a ml/udekoijh blow . . 104
a 'mapped tiobk . . . .118
a 11a0b fob life ..... 150
the return from the haid . . . .164
a hypocritical ox . . . . . 182
amazon warbiouh of dahomey . . 210
f1hhino for tubtlbh and catching an allioator . 234
an adventure witti a buffalo bull . 238
hunting the manatee ..... 252
a fortunate ohoiob .... 262
a terrible foe ...... 272

ADVENTURES
IN THE GREAT FORESTS
OHAPTEU T
THW 81.AVR WAR IN SURINAM
tli-nelliea of l.lu> Dutch coliMilntiM - MaJot .lolni Sldhnan -The
revolt of the negroe*, 1779-1774- -Tim UuUum forest, -Tho
mnwli of (.he 8eot,U#h Brigade through (.he forest, Fever,
imake-bit.es, and bnltct,-womuls— New* of a fresh outbreak-
NoHhws«\l« through the forest* Cutting a path through On
the track of tho enemy -Tho " WAmy-wassy "— A horrible
discovery— Arrival of Major ttughcoo's force—The sto>rm-
H\ighcop's expedition— The Attack of the insurants Fighting
in a forest, iWAmp*- Uetnm of Bughcop- -Condition of (lie
negro prisoner* — Stedman charged with mutiny— The forest
oAtnn After ttnghoqft death— Sad of hostilities.
Major John Stedman, of Scottish extraction, but
born And brought up in Holland, sowed for twenty-
throe year* in tho Scottish Brigade of the Dutch army.
About the year 1764 Stedman'a regiment was sent to
Dutch Guiana to aid in kocpii\g the slaves in check ; for
tho negroes who werkod in the cotton plantations had,
for many years, been maintaining a series of petty revolts
against thoir task -masters, and there was danger of their
13

REVOLT OF NEGROES
raising such an organized rebellion as could only be put
down by a strong military force.
But it was not till eight years after the arrival of the
Scottish Brigade that the treatment of the blacks by the
Dutch planters finally brought about a general mutiny,
formidable enough to keep Dutch, Scotch and French
troops busily occupied for over two years.
The insurgents being armed only with a few stolen
or improvised weapons, and having no experience of field
fighting, there was but one course open to them — that of
fleeing to the forest which bounded the plantations on
three sides, and carrying on a guerilla warfare against
their pursuers, in whose ranks Captain Stedman
found himself an important, though unwilling leader.
The forest, which, even nowadays, covers by far the
greater portion of Guiana, has always been renowned
for the beauty and variety of its birds and insects,
as well as for its rare flowers and creepers ; and its
impenetrable recesses offered abundant security to the
runaways. Stedman found his work of pursuing the negroes a
very monotonous business, the events of one day repeating
themselves on the next with dismal regularity ; one or
two of his followers dropping dead from shots that seemed
to come from nowhere ; some unfortunate black captured
or killed who happened to have ventured too far from his
hiding-place ; the pitching of the nightly camp in the
forest and the restless hours of watching without fire or
light, and the cheerful prospect of an exact renewal of
the day's programme on the morrow. And this lasted
for several months, till thirty of Stedman's surviving
14

MARCH OF SCOTTISH BRIGADE
men were suffering from fever, bullet-wounds or snake
bites, and their lurking adversaries seemed all to have
disappeared or quieted down.
With the dawn of more settled times Captain Stedman
began to look forward to quitting his forest-quarters,
though he dared not withdraw his men till permission
came from the commanding officer. This permission was
now expected every hour, for the last batch of prisoners
had been sent to head-quarters under an escort which,
on its return, would probably bring the order to march.
At last the escort came back, bringing a letter from
Colonel Fourgeon, the commanding officer, to the effect
that three Dutch estates had been burnt by another party
of runaways, who had killed every European resident they
could get hold of, and were now making their way south
wards, through the forest, to join the main body of their
friends. A detachment of Dutch infantry, under Major
Rughcop and a lieutenant, were in pursuit, and Stedman
was to march northwards with all speed to cut off the
negroes on that side, and, if possible, to attack the
main body, which was supposed to be gathered in force
somewhere in the centre of the forest.
With very little hope of success, Stedman collected his
fever-stricken company and, with eight friendly negroes
going in front to hew them a path through the creepers
and under-growth, started on his new route. For some
days he kept bravely onwards, covering but a very few
miles a day, with no guide but his compass ; taking but
little pleasure in scenery which at any other time would
have filled him with admiration. For captain and men
were alike out of heart with the work that had fallen to
is

THE GUIANA FOREST
their lot. If they were serving a foreign government, they
could not forget that they were British soldiers, called
upon to hound down poor wretches, whose very atrocities
were largely the natural outcome of the brutal treatment
they had received, and who, when caught, must be handed
over to a renewal of such usage.
At last, just when they seemed to be utterly lost in the
forest labyrinth, the negroes in front of the column set up
a shout of triumph ; and Stedman, pushing his way to the
head of the file, found that the last bit of hewing had been
done, and that they were now entering upon a broad
and well-beaten track which ran north-eastwards towards
the French territory, and showed traces of a large body
of negroes having passed along it not many days before.
For the next two marches travelling became almost
pleasurable, after the wearisome crawl in single file along
the newly-hewn path ; but, before long, the road began to
descend steadily, and was now from time bo time crossed
by streams, through which the hapless Scotchmen were
obliged to wade chin-deep ; and, at the next bivouac, it
became certain that the brief days of easy marching were
ended again. The path, after having dwindled to a thread,
had come to an end ; but not the tracks of the negroes.
The fugitives, in their haste, had crawled on hands and
knees through the ever-thickening brushwood, and it was
for the pursuers to do the same.
Now arose a fresh peril. In the swampy localities of the
Surinam Forest there is a kind of small fly or bee, known
as the " wassy-wassy." These insects swarm in hollow
trees, and regular armies of them will attack horses or men.
Their specially dangerous peculiarity is that they instinct-
16

DEATHS FROM FEVER
ively oeok the lips and eyes of the traveller ; and where
the sting does not cause fever (which too often it does)
it produces temporary semi-blindness, with agonizing
irritation and swelling.
As for the pursued, they seemed to possess a sort of will-
o'-the-wisp feoulty of being always a little ahead. Three
times the Sootoh came upon a still smouldering heap
of ashes, announcing that the runaways were but a few
hours away ; and once or twioe the eohoes of their shouts,
whittles, and revolutionary songs were wafted tantalizingly
bftok through the trees. Yet the distance between the
two foroes never seemed to lessen appreciably.
At length the track led to a river and along its bank,
arid onoe moro progress beoame a trifle easier. But now
soarcely a day passod without a death from fever, and
Stedman saw plainly enough that, if the pursuit lasted
muoh longer, his mon would be out up by the first
organised resistance which the enemy might choose to
make. But whether in a good or a bad cause, to him
orders were orders, and without a moment's hesitation
he still prossed forward.
But when they had followed the course of the river for
some miles, the front-rank men involuntarily half stopped,
and the sergeant hurried to the rear to call the captain's
attention to the obstacle. Hastening forward, Stedman
was horrified to find the way blooked by a line of eight
sticks upright in the ground, and on each ono of them the
head of a white man.
" Do you recognize any of them, sergeant ?" he asked,
whon he had recovered from his first shook of
disgust. a »7

A HORRIBLE DISCOVERY
The sergeant had been the leader of the escort that had
brought back the new orders.
" Dutch infantry, sir," he said gravely. And pointing
to the head nearest to the water, he added, " That is Major
Rughcop's lieutenant. I had to hand over the prisoners
to him, and should know him anywhere."
Stedman shuddered again. From the look of them,
these had been healthy well-fed men ; and if they could
not withstand the enemy, how could he hope to do so
with practically all his men on the sick list ? Yet, if the
inclination to turn back assailed him, he set it briskly
aside, and ordering the negroes to bury the heads, he
led his force onwards again.
A little farther on, the trail once more branched away
from the bank, and, in the fading light, became somewhat
difficult to follow. Then, just as the captain was deciding
that he would camp till dawn, rather than wander perhaps
altogether from the track, there sounded higher up the
river-bank the steady tramp of a large body of men.
The prospect of battle put new life into the hearts of the
invalids, for at least it was now no longer a question of
shooting down or arresting at bayonet-point a few unarmed,
frightened slaves ; on the contrary, it was an encounter
between a handful of half-starved, broken-down men, and
possibly a couple of hundred sturdy and blood-thirsty
blacks. But before they had had time to congratulate
themselves on the chance of a fight, some twelve dozen
Dutch guards came in sight, under the leadership of
Major Rughcop, an officer whom Stedman had known and
disliked for some years; a man ever unreasonably merciless
in bis dealings with the blacks who fell into his handa
j8

A TROPICAL STORM
His first question was, Had the Scotch heard any news
of the lieutenant and his little party of scouts ? And the
Dutchmen's horror and rage at the fate of their unhappy
comrades may well be imagined. The two forces bivou
acked together that sad night, and when the bugle blew
at five the next morning, Captain Stedman woke to find
a devastating tropical rain-storm : the camp flooded, their
slender stores and ammunition mostly ruined by the wet,
and several more men down with ague and fever. To
make matters worse, a search-party, despatched on the
previous evening by Rughcop, had returned with the news
that several hundred armed negroes were gathered within
a few miles of the camp.
Rughcop, however ruthless, was no coward ; and, though
himself in the early stages of fever, he did not hesitate to
prepare for an immediate attack on the enemy; and,
leaving the Scotch and a few spare men from his own
company to guard the camp, set off through the pouring
rain with the remainder.
Left alone, Stedman divided his able-bodied men into
two parties : one to patrol the neighbourhood of the camp
in search of food and possible enemies ; the other to erect
what shelter they could against the incessant rain, and to
dry the stores and powder. From time to time the reports
of fire-arms sounded far away in the forest, as though
Rughcop's men had engaged with the negroes ; and, as
the afternoon wore on, the suspicion was confirmed by
the sound of more regular and frequent firing. Also —
a fact which gave rise to no little uneasiness in the
captain's mind — at times shots sounded from the near
neighbourhood, as though fired at or by his own scouts.
«9

RETURN OF SEARCH-PARTY
Before long the search-party returned, seemingly in
great trouble. Some few were laden with game — boossy
ealcoos, or wild turkeys, toucans, and cavies (akin to the
guinea-pig) ; but most of them seemed to have something
else to think of besides food; and the sergeant's first
words were sufficient to convince Stedman that his
anxieties had not been groundless.
Three times the scouts had been fired on from behind
the dense creepers that hung in curtains from the boughs
of the trees ; one of the Dutch had been shot dead ; yet
the most careful search had not resulted in the sighting
of any one. But, continued the sergeant, just as they had
turned into the path leading from the river they had
distinctly heard the high-pitched voices of a considerable
number of negroes, who must either be encamped near
at hand or else be marching that way.
Stedman lost no time in collecting his company and
serving out the half-dried ammunition ; but, having seen
to all that, he was at a stand-still as to what to do next.
His military and combative instincts urged him to seek
out the enemy straightway; prudence reminded him
that his object was now not so much to slay or to make
prisoners as to protect himself and his invalids from the
revengeful blacks, and that he ought not to expose his
men to an ambuscade fire which they would be powerless
to return.
But the enemy took the decision out of his hands by
suddenly appearing in the path from the river, three or
four abreast, to the number of about a hundred. Half-a-
dozen of them had muskets, but the rest were armed with
hatchets, bills, clubs, or rusty cutlasses; they slouched

ATTACK OF INSURGENTS
along, every one talking at the top of his voice, quite
regardless of the drowning rain; as noisy, boastful, and
undisciplined a force as ever took the field. At sight of
the white men the leaders set up a vindictive howl which
was soon echoed by those behind them, and without sense
or method the whole precipitated themselves on the
Scottish camp.
Stedman gave the word to fire; but instead of the
rousing volley which might have been expected, about
half-a-dozen guns went off; the remainder had missed
fire. Four negroes fell, but the rest, sufficiently intelligent
to guess that the enemy's cartridges were useless, yelled
in derision and, rushing over their dead comrades' bodies,
prepared to attack.
But before they could get to close quarters the order
to fix bayonets had been promptly obeyed, and they
found a bristling wall of steel points waiting to receive
them. With no other instinct than their deadly hatred of the
white man, and the terrible blood-mania that had spread
among them like a malignant disease, they charged madly
against the defenders of the camp, often trampling or
striking each other in their fury.
Regardless of their shouts and gestures, as of the sheet
of rain that fell about them, the cool-headed Scots
received the charge in perfect silence. Under ordinary
circumstances such an onslaught would have been a thing
to laugh at, rather than to take seriously, though their
foes were more than double their number. But now the
negroes had more than force of numbers in their favour ;
21

FLIGHT OF NEGROES
most of them were bare-foot, and used to moving lightly
on the sodden ground; while the soldiers, heavily shod,
found themselves ankle-deep in tenacious mud.
The captain was soon plying his sword against three
assailants, and, with his back to a tree, succeeded in killing
one and disabling another; but the third, armed with a
cutlass, pressed him so hard that he was twice wounded
before, by a trick of fence, he at length succeeded in
disarming the infuriated slave, who immediately turned
and fled. Having now leisure to see how the conflict was
proceeding, Stedman noticed that most of the negroes
were following the example of his late opponent ; having
exhausted themselves in their vain effort to break through
the line of bayonets, one after another of those who
escaped the weapons of the Scotch was fleeing, and soon
all had disappeared, except about forty who lay dead or
wounded. The curious point about their flight was that every one
seemed most careful to take precisely the same direction.
Generally these poor ruffians were so utterly disunited
that, when repulsed, they ran towards every conceivable
quarter. Making no attempt to pursue the negroes, the captain
took account of his own losses. Only one man was killed,
but a dozen were dangerously wounded, and no one had
come off scatheless. He was still asking himself why the
insurgents should suddenly have evinced so much system
in their manoeuvres, when a roar of vengeance came from
the direction taken by the fugitives, and from two to three
hundred blacks were seen rushing along the path or through
the trees towards the camp.

RETURN OF RUGHCOP
Stedman shouted a cheering word or two to his men, and
prepared to sell his life as dearly as possible ; for his few
men could not hope to stem such a frantic rush as was
now threatening.
But while the two forces were still nearly a stone's-
throw apart there was a sudden crash of musketry from
among the trees. Several of the negroes fell, and the next
moment Rughcop 's company dashed into the path, cutting
the blacks off from the camp, and with bayonets or clubbed
muskets, began to work terrible havoc among the insur
gents, who were taken completely off their guard. In less
than twenty minutes the skirmish — in which the Scotch
took no part — was at an end ; the negro force was com
pletely cut up, and Rughcop returned to camp, bringing
in great triumph about sixty prisoners.
The next few days was a horrible experience for Stedman.
Though the rain had ceased and men were able to go in
search of food, scarcely enough was obtained to give each
man a sufficient daily meal. As to the prisoners, Rughcop
was incensed at the bare idea of allowing them either food
or drink ; they were roped together in such a manner that
rest or ease was impossible. Each day the treatment of
the unfortunate wretches grew worse instead of better ;
Stedman's protests to Rughcop were received with brutal
insolence, and, before long, the major did not hesitate to
threaten him with arrest for attempting to stir up a
mutiny. But an unexpected release from this hourly torture
came at last. Negligent of the fever which had attacked
him, Rughcop caught a fresh chill ; in twelve hours he
was dead, and Stedman was in sole command. Thencefor-
23

THE FOREST CAMP
ward the prisoners were at least exempt from starvation
and unnecessary cruelty.
Fearing to risk sending such a number of captives away
under the very poor escort which he could afford, Stedman
despatched ten trustworthy men with a message to the
colonel, asking for stores, reinforcements, and further
orders, and then set to work to grapple with the problem
of keeping the semi-mutinous Dutch in subjection, and of
feeding so many mouths till supplies came.
With food short, and already much bad blood between
the two companies, he was well aware that nothing but
continual and wholesome occupation would prevent an
outbreak of hostilities. Here his natural gift for gaining
popularity among men came to his aid Good-humouredly
setting the example himself, he persuaded them to con
struct a temporary hospital-shed against the ever threaten
ing rains ; then, when that was finished, to build a few huts
as sleeping apartments, and another to hold the prisoners,
and to take " turn and turn about " in forming foraging
parties. When the messengers returned from the colonel
in about six weeks' time, they found in place of the com
fortless open-air camp, peopled by half-starved, fever-
stricken and quarrelsome men, what looked more like a
thriving village, garrisoned by well-fed and well-disciplined
troops. The despatches from Colonel Fourgeon were received,
at least by the Scotch, with heartfelt thanks. The rebels
had surrendered, or had fled for protection into French
Guiana, and the war was at an end.
The final issue was favourable to the negroes, for the
Dutch, warned by the terrible events of the past few
24

END OF HOSTILITIES
years, granted pardon or freedom, and concessions on all
sides; and the liberated or escaped slaves set up petty
republics of their own in various parts of the Surinam
Forest, where their descendants are still to be found in
large numbers, under the name of Maroons, or " bush-
niggers."

25

CHAPTER II
IMPRISONED IN AN ISLAND FOREST
The Japanese a century ago — Captain Wassili Golownin and the
Russian survey of the Kurile Islands — Victims to Japanese
treachery — The arrest — Taken to Hakodate — Golownin and his
crew sentenced to perpetual imprisonment — The forest prison ;
plans for escape — Chlebnikoffs discovery — A disappointment,
and new plans — Flight — Pursuit — The cave — The wolves and the
bear — Hope in sight — Accident to the first lieutenant — A race for
freedom — The long-boat — The " slip " between " cup and lip " —
Recapture and ultimate liberation.
Although of late years the Japanese have shown them
selves the equals of most European peoples in point of
civilization and general advancement, there are those still
living who can recall a time when Japan was no more
ready than China to march with the times ; when her
Government was blindly jealous of foreign intrusion, and
when her sailors were little better than the pirates of the
Malay Archipelago.
In the year 1808, Wassili Golownin, a captain in the
Russian navy, while off Kamtchatka, received orders from
the Czar to survey the Kurile Islands, which lie to the
north of Japan. On reaching the most southerly of the
group, it happened that his ship, the Diana, ran short of
water, and rather than send men to land on a small, un
known island, he decided to draw in southwards off Yezo,
where there might be less risk of a hostile reception.
Here he had no sooner cast anchor than Japanese boats
36

VICTIMS OF TREACHERY
came alongside, and their crews, on being asked for water,
signified that the captain must go ashore and negotiate
with the officials before the request could be granted.
This seemed reasonable enough, and Golownin with a
couple of lieutenants and nine seamen landed, thereby
foolishly stepping into a trap ; for, before his wants could
be made known, officers and men were arrested, bound
on horseback, and sent into the interior under a strong
escort. And now began a wearisome march through villages and
forests, across mountains and river-fords ; its tedium only
mitigated by the fact that the Russians were not prohibited
from conversing. Golownin, the only man who had a
knowledge of Japanese, from time to time hazarded a
question as to their destination.
"To Hakodate," was the brief and unvarying reply.
Hakodate is a sea-port town in the south-west of the
island of Yezo, corresponding more or less to our Bristol.
Half starved, and crippled by the cords which bound
them, the prisoners at length arrived at Hakodate, where
they were to be taken before the governor. Golownin
had not abandoned hope, for now, in a presumably
civilized town, surely he would be able to explain his
position and regain his freedom, if not by appealing to
Japanese justice, at least by threats of Russian vengeance,
which the more uninstructed northerners had been unable
to appreciate.
But the sight of the soldiers, to whom the travelling
escort handed over him and his men, went far towards un
deceiving him ; for all were clad in brass coats of mail, and
both they and the governor seemed even more closely
27

PLANS FOR ESCAPE
related to antediluvian, or at least, mediaeval times than
the original captors. As before, his explanations were
not regarded, and without trial, and on no more definite
charge than "trespassing with felonious intent," the
strangers were sent to perpetual imprisonment on the
island of Matsmai.
On landing here, the severity towards the unfortu
nate Russians was considerably relaxed ; chains and cords
were removed and the prisoners were conducted to a large
house, one room of which was given up to the captain and
his two officers, and another to the men. Further, little
restriction was now laid on their wandering, provided all
returned by sundown, when the yard-gate was locked
from the outside and every one was a prisoner till the
following morning.
Golownin and the first lieutenant, Chlebnikoff, lost no
time in planning an escape. Bit by bit, as much of the
island as could be covered in the few hours at their disposal
was explored, and careful note taken of surroundings and
resources. The more civil of the guards were gently
probed for information; but the captain learned little
from that source, beyond the fact that the forest, which
stretched on all sides of the house, extended even to the
far coast of the island, pathless and often impassable.
Gradually the officers took the men into their confi
dence, and every opportunity was seized for a general
meeting in the heart of the forest, where, unseen by
their gaolers, they could discuss and mature their scheme
of flight. The first difficulty was the want of weapons.
Fire-arms were, of course, out ofthe question; but, from
time to time, the sailors picked up odd bits of iron or steel

28

FINAL PREPARATIONS
which, with the aid of a couple of files which one man
happened to have in his possession, were soon fashioned
into pike-heads ; these were hidden away in a hollow tree,
— their only store-house until the captain one day dis
covered a cave, which henceforth was to serve as an
armoury, and, at need, a city of refuge. Chlebnikoff,
who was the most able mechanic of the party, also
contrived a rude compass.
Now came the question of provisions. Each man was
ordered to save from his daily rations a reasonable quantity
of such food as would keep ; dried vegetables, salted fish
or meat, and the like ; for, without fire-arms or the leisure
to set traps, there would be small chance of killing game.
Each day these supplies were secretly conveyed to the
cave, and the hearts of the prisoners grew comparatively
light as the stock increased ; flight seemed so near now ;
might come any hour or minute.
On the third day after this final preparation began,
Chlebnikoff was the last to report himself at sundown
(for, in order to avoid suspicion, the captives made it a
rule to leave and return home singly, or in pairs).
" I have discovered something," he said to his brother
officers when they were alone.
"What?"" The highest tree in the forest, captain."
"What then? — Ah! You have seen something from
its summit ? "
Chlebnikoff bowed. "After leaving you I came acci
dentally upon a little knoll which I think none of us had
noticed before, doubtless because it is hidden among the
camphor laurels and undergrowth. On it is a small grove
29

CHLEBNIKOFF'S DISCOVERY
of pines, one of them— as I think— the highest in the
forest. From the top of it I could easily see the bay on
the far side of the island, and  " The lieutenant peered
nervously round, as though spies might lurk at his very
elbow; then leaning forward said in a hoarse whisper,
"There were English and Russian ships at anchor
there ! "
His hearers started to their feet in their excitement.
"Russian ships!"
The news seemed too good to be true. The younger
lieutenant leant against the wall and sobbed for very joy,
while Chlebnikoff and the captain clasped hands in
silence. Luck was with their enterprise to a far greater
extent than they had ever ventured to hope. Hitherto
their wildest and most daring proposition had been to
hide, either in their cave or a more remote part of the
forest, long enough to baffle pursuit ; then to reach the
farther shore, where they would seize or make some craft
that would convey them to the next island, where they
would at least enjoy liberty and be in a position to signal
to any European vessel that might come within hail.
Now, it became a mere question of getting to the shore
and rowing, or even swimming, out to one of their own
ships. But Golownin, the first to recover his composure, was
not slow to point out that much remained to be done
before they could in any sense consider themselves secure.
They had, perhaps, a sufficiency of food and weapons,
and the abundant streams and pools in the forest should
insure them against want of water. But, as far as he
could gather from one of the guards, making due allow-

3°

FURTHER DIFFICULTIES
ance for the almost impenetrable nature of the forest, it
was a good four days' journey to the bay; most of which
distance was naturally unknown ground to the Russians.
Another guard had said that the forest was uninhabited ;
but that might be false, and the very first day's march
might land them among villagers, who had been warned
that at any time the strangers might pass that way in an
attempt at escape. Worst of all, the winter wat; begin
ning, and, in the absence of thicker clothing than they
possessed, their sufferings would be unspeakable, in the
event of a keen frost.
" We must contrive to forewarn the men to-morrow
morning early, so that there may be no absentees; we
will all meet at the cave within an hour of leaving here,
and  "
Here the conversation was interrupted by the night-
sentry, who, before commencing his watch, always entered
and took away their light. Two such sentries ' mounted
guard each night, one on the outside of either door, ready
to rouse the outer garrison should any attempt at flight
be made. Waiting men are no judges of time ; it seemed
an age to the three officers before daylight came; and
when at last the breakfast was brought in, none of them
had the courage to meet their attendant's glance, lest
their faces should betray their designs.
As soon as the meal was swallowed they went out to
the court-yard, took up their position near the gate as
usual, and long before the arrival of the official whose
daily duty it was to dismiss them, had communicated the
good news to the crew.
At last the key rattled in the lock, and the governor
31

A DISAPPOINTMENT
of the island entered the yard. The prisoners, now almost
beside themselves with suspense, made a step forward to
the entry-way, but before any one was out of the gate, it
was closed again, and the Japanese officer, turning abruptly
to Golownin, said : '" Tell your men that no more leave
will be granted while rbreign ships are in our waters. For
the present you must take your exercise in the court-yard."
Golownin turned hastily to the men to hide the pallor
of disappointment that he felt creeping over his face;
then, controlling his emotion as bravely as he knew how,
translated the new order to the sailors, hurriedly enjoining
them to betray no surprise or resentment ; then, calling
his two colleagues aside, he began to seek about for some
other method of escape.
" We must go to-night," said Chlebnikoff. " Now that
the men know our ships are so near, nothing will keep
them prisoners here, and they will be risking some
desperate and impossible venture which will end in
discovery." " What is your plan, then ? " asked Golownin.
" This. When the night-sentry comes for our hght he
must be gagged and bound, and the same with the men's
sentry; then we shall dig a hole under the gate and
escape one by one. All this can, with care, be done in
perfect silence and without alarming the guards outside
the house, who are always asleep by the time the night-
men come on duty."
This programme seemed a terribly rotten staff upon
which to lean, but, considering the restiveness of the crew
and the short time at their disposal, it was the best that
could be arrived at; and the remainder of the day was

SUSPENSE
spent in an agitated final search for any tools or weapons
that might make flight easier and more certain. One of
the men made a stealthy descent on the kitchen, but
only succeeded in bringing away a couple of knives;
Chlebnikoff found a spade, which he hid in a corner of
the yard; while Golownin occupied himself with the
preparation of gags and bonds from spare belts or
handkerchiefs. Once again evening came; then supper; then the last
anxious discussion and suspense in both of the rooms.
The prisoners had been disappointed once that day ; why
not again ? Perhaps the night-guard would be doubled ;
perhaps the garrison would not retire till a later hour than
was customary ! And, if the first part of the arrange
ments were carried out successfully, what about the dig
ging of the hole ? The more Golownin thought upon the
scheme the madder it seemed ; but it was too late to draw
back now.
As it happened, everything went smoothly ; the
sentries entered as usual, and each was gagged, and
tied hand and foot before he could give the alarm. The
next minute the doors were bolted on the two astonished
guards, and the prisoners were standing round the gate,
panting and tremulous, while Chlebnikoff with his spade,
and Golownin and a sailor with the sentries' swords, rapidly
hollowed a space under the gate, big enough for one man
at a time to crawl through.
Then arose a difficulty which Golownin and the lieu
tenants had foreseen. The sailors were unused to self-
control, or even to discipline, as our army or navy
understand the term ; and no sooner was the hole finished
3 33

FLIGHT AND PURSUIT
than each man wanted to be the first to escape. Fortun
ately Golownin was a wise and experienced commander.
Standing sword in hand over the hole, he signed to the
crew to pass through in proper order, intimating silently
that he would cut down the first man who attempted to
anticipate his turn. By this means the little exodus was
carried out satisfactorily, and every one scampered helter-
skelter in the direction of the cave. Here the captain
addressed a few earnest words of warning, pointing out
that safety depended entirely on union and obedience. The
men listened good-temperedly but impatiently ; even the
officers were burning and fretting to indulge their new
found freedom, and were disposed to skip about like
school-boys, for the suspense of the last few hours had
been great enough to unnerve the most sedate of
men. Arms and stores were packed, and all were ready to
march, when one of the men who was noted for quick
hearing laid his hand warningly on the captain's arm.
When silence was obtained, shouts from the direction of
their late prison could easily be heard ; and one of the
adventurers, climbing a tree, declared he could see lanterns
flashing in the distance.
"Very well," said Golownin; "we must go back into
the cave ; it cannot be known to the enemy, or our stores
would have been found."
Chafing and at their wits' end with anxiety, the crew
passed that night and the following day within the cave,
numbed with the cold, for frost had suddenly set in and
snow was falling heavily, yet not daring to light a fire
on account of the combined risk of suffocation and detec-
34

SLOW PROGRESS
tion. But when dusk came, as no further sound beyond
an occasional shout in the far distance was heard, Golow
nin gave the order to march ; and for the next twelve
hours the refugees scrambled through bamboo thickets,
brushwood and evergreens, impatient of such miserably
slow progress, yet stopping or starting with dread at every
unexplained noise around them. At every hour the frost
grew more severe, and when they stopped to camp for the
short daylight time, the ground had become stone-hard
and the neighbouring stream was unbreakable ice.
Chlebnikoff urged the captain to grant permission for
a fire to be lighted. "We may as well be re- taken," he
argued, " as die of thirst or cold, or be killed by our own
men, turned mutineers." So Golownin gave way, and
soon the men were occupied in melting ice or snow for
drink ; and after sunset the march was recommenced.
Dark had just come on when, over the dead leaves
behind them, there came the steady tramp of hurrying
feet. The captain called a halt, and the sounds came
nearer — near enough to show that they did not proceed
from human footsteps ; moreover, as the men looked back,
they saw little fiery sparks dancing and scintillating in
their rear.
" Wolves ! " ejaculated Chlebnikoff.
Golownin hesitated ; there were but two courses to
pursue : either for every one to climb a tree, or else to
turn and face the hungry pack. The former course did
not commend itself, because it would at least mean sepa
ration ; and, if the wolves refused to move away from the
spot, every one would be dead with cold in a few hours.
Without further delay, he gave the word of command, and
35

WOLVES AND BEAR
the men, couching their pikes, prepared to receive the
charge of the famished brutes. At a word from the
captain, the second lieutenant struck flint and steel and
lighted one of the torches, made of greased rag, which
were always kept in readiness. Not expecting this sudden
illumination, the pack stood still, emitting angry or
frightened yelps ; while the lieutenant brandished his
torch, lighting up the tree-trunks and throwing a red
path several yards ahead of him.
All at once the wolves broke out into an agonized and
deafening howl, and wheeling, fled in every direction. At
the same moment the gleam of the torch fell on a huge
dark object that came crashing through the fallen leaves
and hoar-frosted undergrowth. It was a bear, maddened
to a pitch of ferocity by hunger and the unwonted glow
of light.
Prepared for wolves, the men were very much unpre
pared for anything else ; and, dropping their weapons, half
of them sought refuge behind adjacent tree-trunks. On
he came in a direct line for the spot where the officers
were standing. Golownin raised the huge, two-handed
sword, which he had taken from the sentry, and aimed a
blow at the furious creature. The sword fell on the bear's
skull — and broke off at the handle, leaving the cap
tain defenceless, and the animal seemingly unscathed.
Golownin made a deft sideward spring, and left a clear
field for Chlebnikoff, who was still armed with his spade.
The bear lumbered forward, and was within three or four
feet of the lieutenant, when the weapon, guided by power
ful arm and unerring aim, crashed across its snout. The
creature reeled, tottered bewilderedly, and dropped to the
36

The Bear was Mad with Hunger
Golownin aimed a blow with the Iwo-handed sword at ihe furious creature. He hit It on
the head, apparently without effect, and the sword snapped. Defenceless he sprang aside,
but fortunately the bear was felled by ChlebnikofT's spade.

HOPE IN SIGHT
ground, where it was immediately dispatched by the pikes
of the least frightened of the men.
Victory put new heart into the crew, and they pro
ceeded joyously on their march.
On the fourth afternoon Chlebnikoff, after mounting
a tree, reported that they were within a few hours of the
sea-coast. " Courage ! " he added ; " our ships are still
there, and there are boats lying on the beach." A murmur
of applause greeted the welcome tidings, and the wearied
men lay down once more to await the dusk, when the last
march began. But they had travelled a bare half-mile
when, to their rearward, the forest echoed with shouts.
The hue and cry was after them, and the pursuers had
probably discovered their track. Even while they watched,
it seemed as though gleams from distant lights danced on
leafless boughs above them.
" Forward ! " shouted Golownin desperately, and the
journey was resumed with dogged patience and silence ;
and all the while the shouts came nearer, and, beyond all
doubt, an occasional light flashed behind them.
Suddenly Chlebnikoff, who led the van, was seen to
slip, and, with a muffled cry, to disappear as though the
earth had opened and swallowed him. The sailors paused,
awe-stricken, not daring to strike a light. Then a stray
moonbeam showed that the lieutenant had fallen into a
deep hole or pit, on the very brink of which they were
all now standing. Meanwhile the lights and the voices
were coming nearer, the latter ringing exultantly at
the discovery of the fugitives' path.
" On ! On ! " groaned the men, looking furtively round
them. 37

AN ACCIDENT
" Silence ! " commanded Golownin. " The lieutenant has
been our good genius all through. Shall we leave him to
fall into the enemies' hands 1 "
If the sailors were not well disciplined they were at
least affectionate fellows, who readily saw the justice of
the captain's remonstrance ; and without further com
plaint they began patiently to lower two of their number,
by their sashes, to explore the pit.
This was a lengthy performance, and resulted in
nothing; the men came up empty-handed.
" He has fainted," said Golownin, inwardly praying that
worse had not happened. " We will go no farther till we
have found him."
In the hush that followed, one thing became very
clear : while the sounds of pursuit were as distinctly
heard as before, they at least came no nearer. Either
the Japanese were off the track again, or else had
bivouacked for the night.
Thus another half- hour went by uneventfully, the
runaways never daring to speak above a whisper ; nudg
ing one another meaningly as, from time to time, they
recognized the voice of one of the guards whom they
happened specially to like or dislike. Then, as the moon
light again gleamed through the snow-clouds, Golownin
thought he saw a human figure full-length on the
ground and creeping steadily towards him.
Thinking they were discovered by a Japanese scout,
he sprang towards the new-comer, hoping to strangle him
before he could give the alarm. But the next moment
he was biting his lip to keep back a triumphant shout
that rose there. 38

RACE FOR FREEDOM
"Chlebnikoff!"
" Yes ; it's I, captain," said the prostrate man faintly.
Golownin's surmise had been correct ; the lieutenant
had lain stunned by his fall, and hidden by the darkness ;
and had only now recovered consciousness. A rough litter
of bamboo poles was swiftly constructed, and the pro
cession moved briskly along, bearing the injured officer
shoulder high,
Daylight found them on the far edge of the forest, and,
for the first time for many a week, the tired eyes of the
wanderers rested on the sea, and, more joyous sight still,
on a couple of frigates at anchor, flying Russian colours.
The march became a trot, and, at sight of several
unattended boats drawn up high on the beach, a gallop.
For there, ahead, lay the goal of their toilsome march ;
and, as their aching feet at last touched the shingle,
they could not repress a feeble cheer.
" Here's some sort of a long-boat, with oars," cried the
foremost man.
"And provisioned," added the second lieutenant,
hurrying forward. Evidently a fisher crew had got their
boat ready for their day's work, and might be expected to
arrive at any moment. Nay ; even as they laid Chlebni
koff in the bottom, before running the boat down to the
water's edge, a scream rose behind them, and, looking
round, they beheld a woman standing on a bit of rising
ground, waving and signalling to some one whom the
slope hid from view.
"Forward! we won't be baulked now," shouted
Golownin, almost deliriously, and the keel groaned and
crunched on its path down the shingle. But the men
39

RECAPTURE
were faint from excitement, and much weakened by their
recent hardships ; and a task that any four or five of them
would ordinarily have made light of, became too much for
even their united efforts.
" Steady ! Down with her ! " cried the captain ; him
self pushing might and main at the boat's stern.
After that, no one exactly knew what happened ; for,
before the boat had touched the first ripple of water, there
was a clatter of horses' hoofs over rocks and shingle, one
man was knocked one way and one another, and, in a few
minutes, all were recaptured and bound. Their pursuers
had overtaken them at last.
The heart-broken crew were hustled along the coast
for some miles, and at length shipped back to Hakodate
for a further trial. But at last luck had taken a turn for
the better; a new governor had been appointed — one
who was keenly alive to the inconvenience that might
be caused in that old-fashioned town by the guns of a
European battle-ship ; and, having heard Golownin's
explanations, he deemed it wise to convey the gallant
captain and crew back to their own vessel.

40

CHAPTER III
LOST IN A COLUMBIAN FOREST
The Columbian forest — An autumn journey — An unlucky doze —
The deserted camp — Pursuit — The track lost — Alone and un
armed in the forest — Wanted, a breakfast ! — Help at hand —
Disappointment — The rattlesnake — Thirst — A meal of cold
water — A false alarm — Fruit diet — Frost and wolves — An en
counter with a wolf — The evil of thin soles — An unexpected
meal — The track at last — The Indian camp — Found !
To be lost in a forest is, in some respects, rather worse
than meeting with the same calamity in the desert, or
on the open sea. True, there is not necessarily the same
ghastly menace of death from hunger and thirst; but
there is as little ground for the hope that succour will,
sooner or later, come from those who have espied the
wanderer from afar. A man might stroll aimlessly
through one of the immense American forests for a
whole lifetime without ever seeing, or being seen by, a
human creature — though there might still be hundreds
of people almost within call.
An interesting instance of the hopeless condition of a
man thus lost is that of Ross Cox, a young Englishman,
who went out to British Columbia in the early part of the
last century to join the Pacific Fur Company.
With a considerable body of trappers he was riding
across country from the Rockies towards the Columbian
41

THE COLUMBIAN FOREST
coast, and, in order to reach this, much forest land (which
is now thriving farmstead, mine, or township) had to be
traversed. Crossing a line of hills, the party came to a
point where all semblance of open land ended, and the
forest began in earnest; and, after two days' riding at
reasonable speed — for the thickness of the wood was not
such as to seriously hinder progress on horseback — they
seemed no nearer the end of it than when they had
started. This was scarcely surprising, for Cox discovered
later that the forest was something like a hundred and
fifty miles wide. The fir-woods which nowadays seem to
be dotted here, there and everywhere throughout the
colony, and from which the timber dealers obtain the
celebrated " Douglas " fir, are most of them isolated
fragments of it.
The time of year was autumn — not always the pleas-
antest time for travelling in Columbia, by reason of the
uncertainty of the weather ; one day the men were glad
to lie down under the tree-shade and sleep through the
hot noontide ; the next, the chilliness of the atmosphere
would prompt them to dismount and run by the side of
their horses, or huddle themselves round the fire at which
the mid-day meal was cooking. On the third day from
their entering the forest a brief heat-spell set in, and,
after their early dinner, the men lay languidly on the
heaped-up pine-needles and abandoned all thought of
continuing their march till the air had cooled somewhat.
But Cox, to whom the marvellous scenery was still more
or less of a novelty, took advantage of the break in the
journey to do a little exploring on his own account, and
wandered in a leisurely fashion away from the camp,
42

AN UNLUCKY DOZE
taking, however, careful note of the direction he was
following. Half-an-hour's slow walking brought him to the bank
of a stream which, clear as glass, flowed blithely over a
broken bed of rocks and decaying tree-roots ; and here,
over-heated with his stroll, he lounged luxuriously on a
tussock of grass and moss, and, leaning his back against
a tree, was asleep before he had begun to meditate on the
beauty with which he was surrounded.
He awoke with a sensation of intense chill, for his entire
clothing consisted of a thin shirt, breeches and mocassins.
The sun had not set, but its heat was gone, and, looking
at his watch, Cox was thunderstruck to find that he had
slept for over four hours, and that it was now nearly five
o'clock. Anxious to spare his friends the trouble of look
ing or waiting for him he set off running at full speed
back towards the place where he had left them, and,
in less than ten minutes, was within sight of it.
But nowhere was there a sign of a living creature ; the
camp was empty, and the ashes of the fire almost cold.
Cox laughed aloud incredulously; his companions could
not have gone without him ; or, if so, they must still be
within hail. He looked towards the spot where he had
tethered his horse ; that, too, was tenantless. Ruefully
deciding that he must continue his run, though already
somewhat out of breath, he followed the horse-tracks at
a good swinging pace, now and again stopping and
shouting at the top of his voice, in the vain hope of
making his friends hear.
When he had run for about a mile he was pulled up
short by the disquieting consciousness that the trail was
43

ALONE IN THE FOREST
no longer visible, for he was coming to the foot of a chain
of wooded hillocks, each as like the other as two peas in a
pod; and, for about a quarter of a mile between him and
them, lay a stretch of rock and shingle on which the hoof-
marks had not left even the faintest impression. After a
short pause he redoubled his speed across this little wilder
ness and struggled to the top of the nearest of the hills.
The outlook from here was hardly encouraging. Before
and behind lay the dark forest ; right and left were the hills,
half smothered by bushes, trees and saplings ; there was not
a sound in the air to tell of even the remote presence of
men ; not a sign of any human dwelling ; and dusk was
coming on. The haste with which Cox had quitted the
camp, and his ardent pursuit of the trail, had left him but
little leisure for speculating as to the possibility of his
actually not being able to come up with the others ; even
now, and in face of the dreary prospect all around him,
such a thing still seemed unthinkable ; and, to ward off
unpleasant thoughts, he again shouted with all his might ;
but no reply came. Almost losing self-control — he was
but a boy — he cried out again, frantically and until he was
hoarse ; yelled, shrieked, and even tried to persuade him
self that the dull echoes and reverberations from among
the trees and hills were answering calls.
Then at last the horrible truth revealed itself to him iu
full force : he had lost his travelling companions and was
alone in an interminable forest ! And not only alone, but
unarmed ; absolutely ignorant of his whereabouts ; without
food, or the means of procuring it ; without so much as a
knife, tinder-box, or compass ; without coat or cloak ; for
his pistols were in holsters on his saddle, and he had left
44

THE TRACK LOST
his jacket and rifle with the pile of baggage that the
mules had been eased of when the halt was made.
With one more maniacal shout he dashed down the hill
side, regardless of briers and thorns, hoping against hope
that he might possibly stumble across the track when he
gained the level. But, though he walked along the foot
of the ridge, first in one direction, then in the other, till
it was too dark for him to have distinguished even the
most strongly marked impressions, he could not find a
single footmark, and, completely worn out with anxiety
and fatigue, he threw himself down recklessly in some
long grass and slept till dawn.
He waked chilled to the bone, his clothes sodden with
dew"; and as hungry as though he had not eaten for a
month. But his despair of the night before had vanished ;
he was prepared almost to take a humorous view of the
situation, and told himself with the greatest confidence
that, in the nature of things, he was bound to come up
with his friends before long ; they must have left tracks
somewhere ; once let him find them and then it would only
he a matter of measuring his own staying powers and fleet-
ness of foot against the moderate pace and long intervals
of rest of the main body.
But meanwhile there was the awkward question of
breakfast; he must find some somewhere. He went to
look for it, and was at least a couple of meals in arrears
before he found it, for it was not till dinner-time that he
was forced to the conclusion that the forest offered no
better bill of fare than some leaves, which might or might
not be poisonous. And still he had found neither path nor
footprints. 45

HELP AT HAND
As a last resource he climbed to the top of another of
the hills ; the light was better now than when he had
made his last survey, and if he could not get sight of his
own party, at least he might be able to see a pathway or
the smoke from some fire. Standing on the summit, he
carefully scanned the country round, but with no better
success than before ; and he was about to descend when a
rythmical succession of thuds, as of a horse being ridden
at the gallop, struck his ear. The hoof-beats came nearer,
and, though he could still see nothing, there was no
doubt that the rider, whoever he might be, was swiftly
approaching from the east, and would soon pass the foot
of the hill.
Tremulous with excitement, Cox shouted to the horse
man, and, while he strained his ears to catch a possible
response, there was a flash of something white through
the foliage below, and then a man, mounted on a piebald
horse, wheeled sharply from among the trees immediately
at the foot of the hillock, and turned into the grass-grown
strip that ran parallel to the ridge. Instantly Cox
recognized the horse as the property of an old French
trapper, who was of his party, and presumably the rider
was the trapper himself. With another prolonged shout
he started to run joyfully down the hill.
But the rider neither turned nor slackened rein, and
long before the young fellow could struggle through the
copse with which the hill- face was covered, the trapper —
if it were he — had galloped past the hill, almost out of
hearing if not out of sight ; and all the luckless wayfarer's
shouts were in vain. If he had had any doubt as to
the rider's identity it was set at rest now ; for, as he tore
46

THE RATTLESNAKE
off his shirt and brandished it on a stick with a lingering
hope that the rider might turn his head, a melancholy recol
lection returned to him. The old fellow was stone deaf.
In another minute the sounds had died away, and the
piebald horse was lost to sight behind one of the curves
of the ridge. ,
Half stunned now with his disappointment, Cox resumed
his shirt and, climbing down to the level, threw himself
well-nigh fainting under a tree. An awful thirst had come
upon him, and yet he had not the energy to go in search
of water ; all he felt inclined to do was to lie as he had
fallen, with his face buried in his hands till sleep should
come and enable him to forget his miserable predicament.
But suddenly there was a rustle in the grass, followed by
a sinister rattle which came from only a few feet away,
and he knew that he was at close quarters with a rattle
snake. Even then it cost him some effort to rise and
protect himself, so disheartened was he and so weakened
by hunger and thirst.
But the sight of the malignant creature drawing nearer
spurred him to activity, and, reaching for a lump of rock,
he dashed it feebly down on the snake's head, and then
made off in the direction in which the old Frenchman had
gone, without waiting to inspect the result of his shot. He
walked slowly on till dark ; then lay down again and slept.
Before sunrise he awoke, so parched with thirst that he
gladly moistened his lips and tongue with dew; then
started on his way, casting greedy glances round for any
sign of a stream or pool, of which he knew there were
plenty in the forest. Presently the hoof-tracks curved
again into the more thickly- wooded quarter, and, following
47

WILD DUCKS
them, Cox found that they led to a large pool ; and on its
water and another handful of leaves he breakfasted.
The horse's footprints led up the slope away from the
pool again, and soon became indistinguishable on the short
grass and harder ground ; and the starving man, whose
only care now was to find fruit — he had seen bushels of it
farther back, before he separated from his companions —
went wandering hither and thither in search of it ; re
signed to a lifelong sojourn in the forest if only he could
stave off the agonies of hunger. Thus he walked, till
evening brought him to a second pool, where wild ducks
and geese were swimming placidly. Here, surely, should
be a meal, even though it must be eaten uncooked ; and
he collected a small armoury of stones and began viciously
to pelt the birds. But once more luck was against him ;
each succeeding throw was wider of the mark than its
forerunner, and, by the time he had wasted his little
remaining strength to no purpose, the birds had taken
fright and flown.
Rather than pass another night away from the possibility
of drink, he lay down near the pool and, somehow or other,
contrived to sleep till fairly late the following morning.
Then, while he was sitting up and still rubbing his eyes,
a sharp rattle sounded so close to him that he might have
been sitting on the origin thereof. He bounded forward,
and armed himself with a stout cudgel, which he had
broken from a tree on the previous day, but nowhere was
there a sign of any snake. Stepping gingerly backwards,
he peered among the grass, but, though the rattle came
nearer again, he could see nothing more terrifying than a
large grasshopper. While he was looking at this, there
48

FRUIT DIET
was a repetition of the noise which had first startled him —
none other than that produced by the insect's wings, which,
even to an imagination undistorted by famine and loss of
nerve, bears a very strong resemblance to the sound made
by a rattlesnake when preparing to dart on a foe. And
during the next few days Cox was several times cause
lessly alarmed by the sudden chirp of these harmless
creatures. But just now his thoughts were diverted from the
animal creation by the sight of a wild cherry-tree which
had hitherto escaped his notice ; and on which there was
still enough fruit left for one or two substantial meals.
He ate as many as he dared and filled his pockets
with a further supply, then moved forward again with
a comparatively light heart.
The next few days passed uneventfully but for a vain
attempt at fishing in a lake without bait, hook or net ;
there were the fish by the score, but no amount of per
suasion would bring them out of their proper element ;
and, as no more cherries were forthcoming, Cox was
reduced to meals of rose-hips, which were neither
appetizing, sustaining nor fattening. On the seventh
night of his wanderings he awoke at midnight, his limbs
rigid and racked with cold The frosts had begun, and the
moonlight showed that the ground was white with rime.
And what strange noise was it that broke the habitual
silence of the forest ? Ross Cox had once spent a month
in Russia, and knew instantly and only too well that th
sound which had disturbed his rest was the baying of a
pack of hungry wolves ; and he lay sleepless and trembling
till daylight. 4 49

OLD TRACKS
After a breakfast of hips he varied his course slightly,
and eventually came out upon a road-like strip of rugged
plain, bordered on either side by thickets or pine-woods.
Following this towards the north-west, he met with
some old tracks ; they might have been several weeks
old, but had they been there for ten years they would
still have cheered the lonely man; for at least they
must lead somewhere.
That evening he took the precaution to half bury
himself in bark, and so fought against the biting cold,
which was again making itself felt. This insured him a
good night's rest, and so fortified him against the next
day's adventures, which began early. Following the
tracks of yesterday, he found that they led to another
lake, and across two streamlets which fed it, and, finally,
into a thicker wood than before. All of a sudden he was
arrested by a mysterious sound in front of him — some
thing between a man's cough and a dog's bark; and,
while he listened again, a big, old wolf came into view
and planted himself obstinately across the path, not twelve
feet away, hungrily licking his lean chops and growling
like a vicious cur. Cox was too paralyzed for the moment
to stir, and, leaning helplessly on his stick, stared at the
famished brute with just the ghost of a hope that, by
offering a seemingly firm front to the enemy, he might
scare him away.
But the wolf did not see matters in that light, and
the two glared fixedly at each other for what seemed like
a couple of minutes, during which the man at any rate
recovered sufficient self-possession to reflect that so long
as he did not turn his back on the beast, he was
So

A POOR BUT EFFECTIVE WEAPON
Enfeebledby a week's starvation, and with no weapon but a stick, Cox at his wit's end
hurled the stick at the big wolf. Fortunately it hit one of bis fore-legs, and he went off
limping and howling dismally.

ENCOUNTER WITH A WOLF
moderately safe. Then he tried bullying ; cried " Shoo !
Get away with you ! " and brandished his arms and stick.
The wolf blinked. The man tried other means ; rattled
his stick on the nearest tree-trunk. But the wolf only
gaped and looked bored.
Cox felt that he was beginning to grow hysterical ; he
shouted, nay screamed, his loudest; but the only effect
was a surly growl from the wolf. Then the hapless
prisoner cast his eye rapidly round for a stone, but there
was none in sight ; and, at his wits' end, he hurled his
club at his tormentor with all the force that a week's
starvation had left him. The weighty missile caught the
beast across the joint of one of his fore-legs and, with a
series of dismayed howls, he limped off as fast as three
legs would carry him, and hid in the cleft between two
rocks, while the victor picked up his weapon and pursued
his way.
But soon a sharp pain in his foot made him pause, and,
on examination, he found that his mocassins had worn
through in places, leaving him at the mercy of the thorns
or sharp stones which lay in the way. One of the former
had pierced the ball of his right foot, and, breaking off
flush with the skin, refused to be dislodged.
As he hobbled painfully on once more, he became
aware of a light trampling over the dead leaves ; he turned
his head and saw that a small herd of deer was moving
slowly along, not a stone's-throw away. Flushed with his
previous success as a stick-thrower, he flung his club
hap-hazard among them ; they scattered and were out of
sight in a moment — all but one, whose leg seemed broken.
The hungry man set off in delighted pursuit of a dinner
Si

AN UNEXPECTED MEAL
so easily won ; but the excruciating pain in his foot was
doubled as soon as he tried to run, and he had the
mortification of seeing the wounded buck limp away
beyond all possible reach, before he could get near it.
But, going to recover the stick, he noticed what was
more to him than a whole herd of deer — a faint column
of smoke from the dying embers of a fire ; and, leading
from these, the shoe-marks of two dozen horses or more.
"At last!" he cried, in a sort of delirium of joy, and
staggered up to the fire, the appearance of which denoted
that its occupants had been gone some hours. Had they
only stayed a little longer, he reflected, they must have
heard his shouts at the wolf. Yet there was one con
solation ; round the remains of the fire were strewn odd
crusts of bread, half-picked grouse bones, and the whole
leg of a hare. On these the starving lad pounced and
almost chewed the very bones; then, too impatient to
attend to his wounded foot, he struggled along in pursuit
of the travellers.
Towards evening the first friendly sound that had
greeted his ears for many a day came from across a stream
along whose bank the track lay. It was the neigh of a
horse, and on the other side of the stream he could now
see a column of smoke ascending and, close by, the tops
of two Indian wigwams. Cox hesitated ; there were ugly
stories afloat as to the doings of the Columbian braves ;
but the smell of cooking that floated over to him was a
far greater temptation than the ordinary well-fed man
can appreciate. And, even while he wavered between
hunger and prudence, he was greeted with a peculiar
nasal " Ha-i ! " from a young Indian who had already
52

THE INDIAN CAMP
observed him, and who was about to wade across the
rivulet to him.
Cox made signs that he could not speak the Indian
tongue, but the red-skin smilingly observed in a mixture
of French, English, and native dialect —
" Come to our camp ; you are the white man who was
lost by his companions, I think ? We shall guide you to
them in the morning. We can easily overtake them."
At this piece of intelligence the young man felt the
world swimming round with him, and, but for the Indian's
arm, he would have fallen into the stream. That night,
he admits, he nearly died from over-eating — an indiscretion
for which he had considerable excuse.
The Indians, two of whom could well make themselves
understood, explained that he had been given up for dead
by his friends after they had sought him for four days ;
but, as a last hope, they had hired the savages to scour
the woods in all directions; and these had intended to
begin their task on the day following.
In the morning, tied on a horse which he was too weak
to sit, Cox rode with his kind entertainers on the trail of
his friends, and came up with them before nightfall. The
explanation of their apparent desertion was simple
enough. They had left the camp in three batches, Cox's
horse going forward among the baggage-mules ; and it
was not till night that his owner's absence was discovered,
each section thinking that Cox was with one of the
others. On the next day scouts had ridden out in all
directions, and, as the reader is aware, it was only by the
merest chance that one of them did not bring back the
unlucky fellow who had gone astray.
53-"

CHAPTER IV
THE WILD WHITE MAN
William Buckley, the wild white man of Port Phillip— The new
penal settlement — Escape of Buckley and his companions — The
pursuit — A dash for the forest — The marine — Buckley's awaken
ing — The savages — " Murran gwrk " — Buckley becomes a wild
man — His life in the forest — News of some white strangers — A
run through the forest by night — Buckley's return to civilization.
The " wild white man " — like the sea-serpent — frequently
finds a place in the pages of the travel-books of the seven
teenth, eighteenth, and early nineteenth centuries, and
many of the Sir John Maundevilles of those days lay claim
to having made his acquaintance. Of course, in the times
of marooning, piracy, colonial penal settlements, and ill-
constructed sailing-vessels, there was nothing specially
extraordinary in a mutinous or shipwrecked sailor or
escaped convict being obliged to take to a primitive,
Robinson-Crusoe mode of life in some unfrequented forest
or deserted island ; nor is it impossible that circumstances
might force him to continue that mode of living, either by
himself or among savages, for ten, twenty or forty years ;
but most of the accounts of nude, gorilla-like men, who
have forgotten their mother-tongue, must be received
with a good deal of doubt.
Among the best authenticated cases is that of William
54

WILLIAM BUCKLEY
Buckley, who, on the authority of one of the Victorian
governors, is stated to have spent twenty-one years in the
forest near Melbourne, part of which still stands.
In the year 1803 the British Government, thinking that
a part of the southern coast of Victoria would make an
excellent penal settlement, sent a batch of convicts there
under the care of Colonel Collins ; and among them was
Buckley, a young bricklayer's labourer, who had been
sentenced to transportation for some military offence
committed while he was serving in the militia.
The prisoners were landed on the broken, inhospitable
ridges of Port Phillip Bay ; but Colonel Collins, finding
that a dense forest began within a mile of the shore,
which might afford a safe asylum to any convict minded
to escape, decided to re-embark, and land his convoy on the
Tasmanian coast.
The colonel was not the only man who had observed the
nearness of the Victorian forest, and the refuge it offered
to a fugitive. Buckley and two other men had long been
revolving plans of escape, and the sight of the blue-green
mass of foliage beyond the rocks quickly decided them as
to the best direction in which to flee for safety. Then
came the news that they were to return to the ship, which
seemed, for the moment, to shatter all their plans and
hopes. But Buckley, the leading spirit, soon took
heart, and pointed out to his confederates that they
were less likely to be missed in the confusion of getting
aboard, and would have a better chance of not being
retaken. Buckley was not far wrong in his calculations, and it
was with surprisingly little difficulty that the three men
55

DASH FOR THE FOREST
contrived to slip away from the main body and, crawling
on hands and knees through the rocks and scrub, to start
upon the rough ascent that led to the forest. But all of a
sudden, when they had covered over half-a-mile of the
way, shouts and a couple of musket-shots behind, gave
them to understand that their absence was detected ; and,
in a swift, furtive glance back, Buckley could see that they
were already being followed,
Ill-fed, and long cooped up in the hold of a convict-ship,
the fugitives were no match in speed or in powers of
endurance for the hardy, active marines who were chasing
them ; and, before they had proceeded another couple of
hundred yards, there could no longer be any doubt that
the pursuers had sighted them and were within gunshot
of them. In another minute there was a musket-report,
and Buckley's nearer companion dropped, either dead or
badly wounded.
Wondering who would be the next to fall, the other two
scrambled desperately on. Now the ground was becoming
less steep again, and, forgetful of soreness and fatigue, as
of the bullets which every now and then hissed past their
ears, they broke into a mad gallop. Safety was so near,
and yet they might never reach it ! If only they could
have waited till dark I
Again the hue and cry came nearer ; that meant that
the soldiers had reached the more level ground. The
second man stumbled, and but for Buckley's throwing out
a helping hand, would have fallen at full length.
" It's no use," he gasped. " I'm done ; I can't go any
farther." "Cheer up; only a few steps!" panted Buckley; and
56

THE PURSUIT
seizing his friend by the wrist he dragged him along
without slackening his own speed.
Four more shots came in quick succession ; a ball carried
away Buckley's hat, but the others went wide. Then —
the forest at last ! Fan-palms, gum-trees, and thick scrub
held out promises of a refuge, if only for so long as a
hunted man might take to get his breath.
Another half-dozen shots were fired ; but as only one
bullet came anywhere near the spot where the two men
had paused, it was probable that the marksmen had no
very clear idea as to the direction which they had taken.
" On again," whispered Buckley. " I can hear them
coming." Careless now as to their route so long as they kept
together and avoided long grass, or ground soft enough
to show their footprints, they sped on, more slowly now,
and casting anxious glances round them in search of some
easily accessible cave or tree.
After a short time Buckley's fellow convict stopped.
" I can't run any farther," he said doggedly.
" Then walk ! " urged Buckley. " Listen to that ! "
Shouts — and responses to them — were echoing in all
parts ; some faintly, others so near that both men looked
round, half expecting to see the soldiers close behind
them. "One thing's certain," muttered Buckley. "Either
they're getting short of ammunition or else they're so
spread about that they're afraid of shooting each other.
Pluck up heart, comrade ; it'll be dusk soon now."
Now walking, now breaking into a hobbling, halting
trot which fatigue, thirst, and the nature of the ground
57

THE MARINE
soon forced them to give up, they pursued their way
straight ahead, feverishly noting the falling shades, which
must soon deepen into twilight. From time to time a
report or a cry reminded them that the search was being
persevered in, and that they had not greatly out-distanced
the pursuers.
The forest grew gloomier and their hearts proportionately
lighter. If they could but elude the marines for another
hour or so they would be safe. All at once a dull, booming
report rumbled in the distance. Joy ! It was one of the
ship's guns, probably fired to recall the soldiers. The
fugitives stopped to listen. Again they could hear the
shouts, but now much farther off ; near them not a leaf or
twig stirred to denote the presence of any one but them
selves. Buckley wiped the sweat from his brow and looked
across at his now half-fainting comrade. " Free ! " he
whispered. " Hark ! " said the other, raising his hand warningly.
Buckley listened, and, as he did so, grew deadly pale. A
regular, crunching noise, as of a man's footsteps, was coming
towards them, though the thickness of the wood prevented
their seeing anybody. Scarcely knowing which way to
turn, they were staring helplessly at each other when the
bushes ten yards away from them parted to give passage
to a red-coated marine.
" Well, boys ; you've had your little run. Now, come
back quietly with me, like good fellows," he said, bringing
his musket to his shoulder.
" Duck ! dodge to the left ! " whispered Buckley fiercely,
himself springing to the right.
" Now then ; hands up ! " said the soldier abruptly.
58

BUCKLEY'S AWAKENING
" What ? No, you don't ! " Without another word the
man fired and Buckley's friend fell, groaning miserably.
With the resolution of despair the remaining convict
charged straight at the marine, who, unprepared for
the violence of his onrush, fell flat on the ground,
where he lay half stunned ; and, before he could recover
himself, Buckley, forgetful of his exhaustion, had dashed
on through bush and fern and hollow, looking neither to
right nor to left, and not stopping till at last he fell sense
less on the crumbling mud of a dried-up watercourse.
When he regained consciousness it was broad daylight
again, and he felt ravenously hungry. But before he
could get beyond those two facts in the summing up of
his sensations, he involuntarily sprang to a sitting posture
— for all round him sounded the gabble of voices in a
strange tongue, intermixed with dolorous howls and
moans. He rubbed his eyes to make sure that he was awake ;
then saw that he was in the centre of a group of about
forty natives, some of whom waved their hands at him
delightedly, while others, continuing their dismal yelling,
beat their breasts and tore out their hair by the handful,
every now and then pointing at him and crying
" Murrangurk ! Murrangurk ! "
'"Tisn't my name," muttered Buckley. " But it'll do as
well as any other. Have you got such a thing as a break
fast to give away ? " Then, remembering that the natives
might not understand him, he made signs that he was
hungry, One of the men nodded pleasantly and pointed to
a fire at which something savoury was cooking ; and
59

< MURRANGURK '
another brought him a steaming morsel spitted on a
stick. Greatly relieved to find that the food which smelt so
appetizing was nothing more alarming — or cannibalistic
— than a good-sized bird, Buckley ate greedily of it, to
gether with some burnt cakes of pounded meal ; and then,
awakening to the recollection that the soldiers might
again be in search of him, he pointed northwards and
intimated that he was in a hurry to move in that
direction. Not only did the savages show no signs of wishing to
detain him, but, with joyful shouts, amid which the
mysterious Murrangurk found a frequent place, packed
up their weapons and cooking utensils and accompanied
him ; and that so unhesitatingly as to lead him to think
that their own destination lay that way.
The party walked along at a leisurely pace until sun
down, when they came to another temporary camp, similar
to that in which Buckley had found himself on waking,
and occupied by some fifty natives. To these his new
acquaintances cried out in triumph, again employing the
incomprehensible Murrangurk pretty freely ; and the
strangers at once rose, gathered round the Englishman,
and manifested their joy at meeting him in various ways
— some by dancing round him, others by slapping him on
the back, and one old woman by tenderly embracing him.
Necessity is a quick teacher, and in a very short while
Buckley found himself speaking and understanding the
language of the Australians with tolerable ease. One of
the first things he learned was that he was supposed to be
the late lamented Murrangurk (a person of importance in
60

LIFE IN THE FOREST
the tribe) come to life again — having been whitened, clad,
and rendered forgetful of his own language in the process.
And now began a new life — one, moreover, which he
found himself taking to with considerable ease, though he
could not have said why. His neighbours were by no
means all that could be desired ; but they were at least as
civilized as many of the criminals he had been forced
to herd with on the convict-ship, and as humane as some
of his custodians. Except when a petty tribal war broke
out they were quiet and harmless, though brutal enough
in their treatment of strangers generally, or those
conquered in battle.
They frequently urged him to take a wife, but having
no special inclination thereto, he effected a compromise
with respectability by adopting two orphan children — a
blind boy and his sister.
As the newness of his "re-incarnation" wore off, and
as the years went by, he found himself making enemies
instead of friends among the forest dwellers. Returning
to his wattled hut one evening from a day's hunting, he
learned that it had been rifled, his adopted son slain, and
the girl carried off; and all his subsequent attempts to
regain possession of her failed.
To fight, single-handed, against a whole tribe was
scarcely possible ; and, as this outrage came upon the top
of many minor annoyances, he decided that his wisest
plan would be to take his departure before bad became
worse. Wandering southwards again to the Port Phillip side of
the forest, he fell in with another tribe ; and, as a few days
of sohtude had begun to be intolerable after many years of
61

WHITE STRANGERS
daily intercourse with the natives, he threw in his lot with
these, and in course of time married one of their women,
who left him soon after to return to the tribe among
which he had first lived. Eventually, settled down peace
fully among his new acquaintances, he continued to live his
former life of roaming through the forest in search of
game, sometimes staying several months in one spot,
sometimes maintaining a steady march in one direction or
another ; and now and then taking up arms in defence of
the tribe that had now adopted him.
By this time his skin (for he had soon learned to
abandon his clothes and had never thought of resuming
them) had become a deep brown by exposure to the
weather, his untrimmed hair fell over his shoulders, his
beard had grown to an inordinate length, and he had
almost forgotten that he had ever been other than he now
was — a wild man of the forest.
But one evening a small hunting party returned to the
camp and announced an amazing discovery. Three white
men and six strange blacks had been seen bivouacking on
the Port Phillip edge of the forest ! Then followed a
minute description of the belongings of the strangers, and
speculations as to their purpose in daring to come there ;
and the next event was naturally a simultaneous move
ment in the direction of collecting and sharpening weapons.
Buckley moved silently away from the camp and sat
down under a tree.
White men ! For some time he could not fully grasp
the idea.
For twenty years he had scarcely given a thought to
such beings. To a man such as he had been in his earlier
62

A NIGHT-RUN
life — ignorant, uncultivated, with no high aspirations, and
perhaps few instincts of a sort calculated to raise him
above the level of the animals — the lapse from " civiliza
tion " to the conditions under which he was now living
was not as great as might seem ; and so gradual had been
the process that he had scarcely marked its course. And
now it required a strong effort to enable him to realize that
he too had once been a " white man."
The sounds of preparation for an immediate night march
which came from the camp recalled him to the present
state of affairs. The savages were making ready for a
sudden descent on the white strangers, and his past ex
perience of native methods told him very plainly what
must happen to the new-comers unless they were strong
enough to withstand the assault. Then, quick as
lightning, a thought flashed through his mind. The
white men might be Englishmen — and he must save them
if he could.
Without a thought as to weapons or food he began
running, unconsciously taking almost the course which he
had followed on the memorable day of his flight. At any
cost he must outrun the murderous wretches who would
be at the white men's camp by sunrise.
Towards morning he saw a light in the distance; he
hurried towards it and found that it was a fire, round
which sat the six strange blacks of whom mention had
been made, preparing an early breakfast for themselves
and their masters. Taking no notice of their cries of
astonishment and fright at his appearance, he dashed into
the tent which stood near at hand, where, by the light of
a hanging lamp, three white men were dressing.
63

RETURN TO CIVILIZATION
At sight of them Buckley's heart and tongue both
failed him, and he burst into tears. For some time it
seemed as if he actually had forgotten his own language.
But, when the white men — English officers from the tem
porary garrison at Western Port — perceiving that, in spite
of his appearance, he was a European, spoke slowly and
encouragingly to him in English, he was at last able to
express himself, and to tell his errand, though somewhat
incoherently. Profiting by his information, the party returned to the
port instead of prosecuting their original design of ex
ploring a part of the forest — and took their strange com
panion with them. There, gradually, he was able to tell
his history, and, through the mediation of those whose
lives he had saved, a free pardon was readily obtained for
him ; and he ultimately received an appointment as
Government interpreter.

64

CHAPTER V
SPORT IN A CHILIAN FOREST
Thomas Sutcliffe — An eventful career — A forest near the Andes —
The hospitable hacienda — The "guasos" — After wild cattle
— Sutcliffe's adventure with a bull and a puma— The bolas
and its uses — A day's hunting in the mountain forest — The
guanaco, or llama — A wild cat — A condor-trap — The trappers
outwitted — More condor-hunting : a novel method.
Conspicuous in the list of the " soldiers of fortune " of
whom mention is more than once made in this volume,
who, by their restless, roving disposition, have either
made or marred their own career, is the name of Thomas
Sutcliffe, who, after a brilliant life of adventure, died in
great poverty in London, in 1849. As a midshipman
he had seen service in several of the great sea-fights
of the French War ; and at the age of twenty left the
Navy, became a subaltern in the Royal Horse Guards, and
gained his captaincy at Waterloo, three years later. After
peace was declared he was unable to settle down to the
monotony of barrack life ; and, with a number of adven
turous spirits like himself, he went out to Colombia, where
he took service under Bolivar, against the Spaniards,
and won a lieutenant-colonelcy in the army of the new
republic. In 1822 he went to Chile, enrolled himself
under General O'Higgins, and for sixteen years served the
5 65

FOREST NEAR THE ANDES
Chilian Government in various capacities, finally becom
ing governor of the convict-station on Robinson Crusoe's
island — Juan Fernandez.
While acting as commandant of two Chilian fortresses,
business took him across country to the coast, and south
wards towards Patagonia ; and he might to some extent
have forestalled Darwin in famiUarizing English people
with the wonders of the forests near the Andes ; for he
utilized his homeward journey as a sporting holiday, going
purposely out of his way to explore a region hitherto
unknown to him.
On such a journey a man bargains for surprises; the
first in store for Sutcliffe was a forest such as he had not
believed to exist — composed almost entirely of apple-
trees; not mere crabs, but large, luscious fruit equal
to those seen in English orchards. To this a planta
tion-like thicket succeeded, where grew the slender,
tapering canes of which the Indians usually made their
spear-shafts. One more day's ride brought him among
larger trees again, principally pine (arawarias), the seeds
of which are largely eaten by the Indians — indeed, it is
said that a family of eighteen will live for a whole year on
the produce of one tree — and, as this new forest sloped up
towards the foot of the mountains, the lonely traveller
came suddenly in sight of a large hacienda, or farm, sur
rounded by little huts in which dwelt the " huassos," or
"guasos" — serfs who formed part of a sort of modern
feudal system.
The Englishman, whose fame had spread to this quiet
country-seat, was made very welcome, and pressed to make
a lengthy stay ; and during that time he was able to see
66

AFTER WILD CATTLE
and enter into the sport of the country in a way that he
could not otherwise have done.
Among other things, he took part in a cattle-hunt
which, common enough on the plains, he had scarcely
expected to see in a hill-forest. At daybreak he was
awakened by the beating of a drum, which summoned all
the guasos of the estate to be ready, mounted and armed.
These guasos must be distinguished from the " gauchos "
of the llanos. Darwin has thus pithily expressed the
difference between the two: "The gaucho, although he
may be a cut-throat, is a gentleman ; the guaso is in few
respects better, and, at the same time, a vulgar, ordinary
fellow." But vulgar or not, these men knew their work. At a
given signal the horses started off at full gallop, almost
guiding themselves through trees and canes, and pene
trating with ease thickets that to a stranger looked
impervious; the men raising curious cries from time to
time, and the dogs barking, as though to drive the cattle
to one particular spot. Following as well as his horse
would allow him, Sutcliffe at length found himself one of
a rough circle of cavaliers, enclosing a score of wild cattle,
which, in their rage and terror, dashed from side to side
of their living prison, butting tree-trunks, stumbling over
roots, and now and again throwing themselves headlong
against the bodies of their brethren that, securely lassoed,
were being drawn willy-nilly towards their skilful captors.
Frantic with despair, one bull made a mad rush
towards the quarter where Sutcliffe had pulled up. As
the Englishman knew no more about using a lasso than
about wireless telegraphy, he had refused the loan of one,
67

ADVENTURE WITH A BULL
preferring to watch ; but, in case of an emergency, had
provided himself with a heavy, short-lashed whip. With
this he struck lustily at the charging bull, at the same
time swinging his horse to one side, lest it should be
gored or butted. Taking advantage of the wider loop
hole thus given him, the bull galloped past the horseman
and out of the enclosure.
No one else seemed to have noticed the escape, and
Sutcliffe, now burning with the desire of pursuing, turned
his horse and galloped after the fugitive, hoping to beat
him into the ring again. The bull, more frightened now
than ferocious, blundered on without attempting to turn
on his persecutor, yet, on account of the trees being so
close together, the hunter could not, for some time, cut
him off in front ; but at last he succeeded in doing so, and
the bull, moving more slowly, and terrified by a touch of
the whip, turned, and again made for the point whence he
had started.
But all at once Sutcliffe's horse gave a little frightened
neigh, reared, and bolted ; and, before the rider could pull
the animal back, a heavy weight struck him across the
forehead, and he fell from the saddle ; the forest seemed
to be turning upside down — and then everything was a
blank. When he recovered consciousness it was to find himself
prostrate, with bruised and aching head, and the horse and
the bull out of sight. As far as he could guess, the horse
in his excitement must have carried him under a tree,
and dashed his head against a horizontal bough, too low
to allow a mounted man to pass beneath. But what could
have startled the horse ? he asked himself, as he tried to
68

CAPTURED BY A PUMA
rise on his elbow. The next moment he was forced into
his recumbent position again, just as if two hands had
been laid on his shoulders ; a tawny body interposed itself
between his face and the light, a considerable weight
pressed on his thighs, and above him sounded a rumbling
growl. He was captured — pinned down — by a nearly
full-grown puma.
The gruesome stories he had heard of these cowardly
creatures lying in wait for a sleeping man coursed
through his mind as he strove to slip one hand into his
pocket in search of the pistol he always carried there.
Why should the puma attack a man who obviously was
now awake ? he wondered vaguely. The movement of
his hand was enough to attract the beast's attention to
what was going on, and, with another growl, it tried to
press down the hand that was moving. Sutcliffe en
deavoured then to slip his other hand under him and to
reach the pistol that way; but the puma repeated its
former manoeuvre instantly, this time lowering its head
till its teeth were almost touching its victim's face.
Sutcliffe was, in those days, an exceptionally powerful
man. He had now partially recovered from his shock
and sense of faintness ; and, since the pocket that held
the pistol was underneath him, and could not anyhow be
reached, there was only one course open ; to wrestle with
and strangle the enemy. After lying motionless for a
few seconds to throw the animal off its guard, he suddenly
snatched both hands free, and quicker even than the
puma's movements, they shot under its throat to hold it
at arm's length preparatory to the struggle.
Then an exclamation escaped the astonished man;
69

THROWING THE BOLAS
three balls each fastened to a thong, the other ends of the
thongs being tied together. The weights of the three-
balled bolases were in many cases of iron ; others were of
some light but hard wood. One ball was held in the
hand and the other two whirled swiftly round and round
and round in the air, and then the whole was thrown
with lightning rapidity at a mark fifty yards away. The
moment the object was struck, the balls, and consequently
the thongs, were quickly twisted round till they held with
the grip of a vice.
On Sutcliffe's expressing his surprise at the dexterity
of the throwers, his host laughed.
" They are only beginning," he said. " This is nothing ;
I will tell them to throw riding at the gallop," and calling
two of the men, he ordered them to fetch their horses.
The two guasos soon reappeared mounted, one carrying a
wooden, the other an iron bolas. The former rode his
horse at full speed for about thirty yards, turned suddenly
back, wheeled again, and, with the horse plunging and
bounding, took aim at an ox that was browsing on the
far side of the space, and threw the balls with all his
force. They spun round, and the next instant had
thrown the ox on his side, pinioning his two fore legs so
that he could not stir. But, as soon as the thong was
untwisted, the creature got up again, probably none the
worse for his fall. The man with the iron bolas held it
out proudly to Sutcliffe.
" If it had been this," he said, " it would have broken
his legs."
The Englishman subsequently had an opportunity of
seeing this formidable implement used on an Indian
7i

HUNTING THE GUANACO
horse-stealer. The iron bolas was hurled by a man riding
at full gallop ; it entangled the legs of the thief as he
was getting ready to mount, and threw him with such
force to the ground that he lay insensible for some time ;
and, when the thong was untwisted, weals were found on
his legs as though seared there with a red-hot wire.
A few days later the Spanish gentleman whose guest
Sutcliffe was, took him higher up the hill forest to hunt
the guanaco, or llama; fox these useful animals were now
coming slowly down from the mountain-ridges for the
winter. From an Englishman's point of view there was
not much genuine sport attached to the killing of them ;
true they could be almost as fleet of foot as deer ; but
they showed themselves so stupid and slow of appre
hension, that, to Sutcliffe, the " hunt " was uncomfortably
suggestive of firing on a sheep-fold or a poultry-yard.
But he very nearly succeeded in catching one ahve, the
llama having by some means got cut off from the rest of
the herd, and not having the sense to dodge through- the
trees and rejoin his companions higher up the slope.
Sutcliffe " cornered " him by a mass of high bush, and was
just going to seize him by the legs, when the llama
astonished him to the point of paralysis by deliberately
spitting in his face, in a manner decidedly less cat-like
than — if it must be said — human ; and, seeing its pursuer
thus dumb-founded, the expectorator dodged and dis
appeared over a ledge of rock.
The llama is the nearest approach to the camel which
the New World has to offer, and it is said that the
ancient Peruvians domesticated hundreds of thousands of
them, using them to convey loads of ore from the mines.
72

A WILD CAT
The forest here was again totally different from that on
the lower lying lands. Wherever there were water
courses, acacias, creepers and palms grew so abundantly
that Sutcliffe could have fancied himself in a tropical
forest ; but, a few hundred yards away from the streams,
the trees at once dwindled, giving a deserted, almost
Siberian, look to the spot.
After the sportsmen had eaten their mid-day meal, the
host suggested a further climb, offering as an induce
ment the chance of shooting a condor ; these birds being
particularly active just then, on account of the number of
old, or very young, llamas that usually died on their
autumn journey down from the summit. As they
scrambled up-hill Sutcliffe suddenly touched his friend's
arm and pointed to a llama-kid crouching on the ledge
just above them, writhing either with fear or pain. The
Spaniard put out his hand to seize the little thing,
when there was a whisking aside of the leaves on a
branch level with their heads, and a wild cat, nearly
three feet in length, which, unperceived, must have
been perched within a few inches of the men's eyes,
and fascinating, and playing with, the young llama,
sprang on to the Spaniard's arm, fixing its claws in
his hand.
Sutcliffe was so taken aback that the only plan that
occurred to him on the spur of the moment was to act as
if the animal had been tame ; and, with the side of his
hand, he dealt it a swinging back-handed blow in the ribs.
The cat howled (so, for that matter, did the Spaniard), and,
dropping with the force of the blow, fled madly to the
topmost branches of the tree overhead, where it sat
73

A CONDOR TRAP
glowering down so fiercely that Sutcliffe felt uncomfortable
till he had put an end to it with a charge of shot.
This accident did away with the proposed condor-
shooting; but one of the attendant guasos ventured to
remind his master that, by slightly varying their route
homeward, they would pass one of the condor-traps which
the farm-hands had erected to catch these undesirable
neighbours. When the trap was reached it proved to be a round
pen, made of sticks and bushes, and about twelve feet
across. Part of the enclosing hedge was double, the
narrow space between the two being covered in on the
top, so forming an ambuscade large enough to contain
several men. One of the guasos cut some long and stout
sticks, and distributed them among his fellows; then,
having left three of the llama carcasses which they were
bringing home for food with the other impedimenta
under a tree some distance off, the men carried the fourth
animal into the pen as a bait, and all hid, ready to spring
out and attack the bird as soon as he had gorged himself
sufficiently; for the popular opinion is that the condor,
greedier even than the vulture, will eat till he cannot
fly- The hunting party waited patiently for half-an-hour,
but no bird came ; and, when the time had stretched out
to an hour with no reward for the long stay, the Spaniard
decided to move onwards. The guasos went on towards
the place where the game and guns had been hidden,
and suddenly started running, uttering wild shouts as
they went. Sutcliffe and his friend, following more
leisurely, came round the bend in the path in time to see
74

Condor-hunting
two condors — the female lying dead from the blow of a
stick, and the male spreading his huge, seven-foot wings
and striving in vain to escape a similar fate. While the
hunters had been watching the trap, the wily birds had
outwitted them by making free with the guasos' pro
spective supper; and, but for their inordinate greed,
might have got off scot-free.
After leaving the hacienda, Sutcliffe had yet one more
experience of condor-hunting. Riding through the scrub
and acacia-wood that ran parallel to the foot of the range,
he encountered a small crowd of guasos who had pulled
up and were sitting at ease in their saddles, intently
watching, from their hiding-place among the trees, a
struggle between a male condor and some strange animal
that might have been anything between a bull and a
bear. The condor, infuriated, seemed to be held tightly
by one of its feet, and was lashing with all its force with
its great wings, giving vent to hoarse cries the while;
and the animal on which he had settled was extending a
limb to seize the other leg.
As Sutcliffe reached the spot where the equestrian
group had stationed itself, all the men dismounted and
ran swiftly towards the scene of the combat, laughing,
shouting and gesticulating; and, arrived there, one of
them struck the captive bird a blow across the neck with
a stick that put an end to its struggles. Then the in
comprehensible animal erected itself and turned out to
be a man, wrapped in the skin of a bullock, his hands and
arms protected by stout leather gloves. Many of the
guasos preferred this method of trapping the bird, as it
combined excitement and adventure with business.
75

A NOVEL METHOD
And now the " bait-man " coolly took off his dress and
handed it over to another guaso, who was carefully
enveloped in it and left lying on the ground, like carrion ;
while all the others withdrew to their hiding-place again,
to wait for a repetition of this interesting scene.

76

CHAPTER VI
FOREST WARFARE IN SOUTH AFRICA
The Kaffir outbreak of 1835— Sir James Alexander— D'Urban's
punitive expedition — The forest of Cape Colony — The Hottentot
—The march through the forest — The Kaffir " sharp-shooters " —
A capture, and some alarming news— The forty-mile gallop —
Alexander's night march back — A false alarm — Further news
of the enemy — Pursuit — The battle — Hintza's surrender, and
behaviour at the British camp — Kaffir perfidy — A dash for
freedom — The end of Hintza.
In the year 1835 a war broke out in South Africa — a
little war, so unimportant that few historians even
mention it. Some Zulus had seized the Portuguese
town of Delagoa, had slain the governor and many of the
inhabitants, and the Amakosa Kaffirs, thinking this a
fitting opportunity to distinguish themselves, had followed
suit by breaking loose on the Cape Colony, and, with fire
and assegai, had made such an incursion that no European's
life was safe from day to day.
The man on whose shoulders fell a large share of the
task of subduing this rising, and whose military skill and
cool-headedness helped to bring it to an end with as little
bloodshed as possible, was the heroic Scotch " soldier of
fortune," Sir James Alexander, who died in 1885. Though
only a little over thirty at the time of the outbreak, he
had already served with distinction in, successively, the
77

A PUNITIVE EXPEDITION
East India Company's, British, Indian, Persian, Turkish
and Portuguese armies, and had made some reputation for
himself as a South American explorer.
When the news of the Kaffir rising reached him he
was exploring a portion of South- West Africa, on behalf
of the Geographical Society ; and he at once sailed for
Port Elizabeth, where his services as aide-de-camp were
very readily accepted by Sir Benjamin D'Urban, the
commander-in-chief. By Alexander's advice war was at once carried into the
enemy's country, and a detachment composed of British,
Dutch and Hottentots was led northwards towards the
Kaffir kraals. To reach these, the army was forced to
traverse the great forest (now considerably reduced) that
lay to the north of the Cape Colony — an intricate mass
of mahogany, aloe and palm trees, with an undergrowth
of " addo " bushes, euphorbias and arum lilies.
Though Alexander, who was in charge of the van of this
little army, had but little information to go upon, it was a
tolerably safe conjecture that the forest was just then
thickly peopled by Kaffirs — either fleeing before the
punitive force, or on their way south in search of plunder.
Therefore he placed his Hottentots at the head of the
column, well knowing that little in the way of Kaffir trails
would escape their notice ; for the Hottentot can vie with
the Red Indian in tracking man or beast. He has remark
ably keen sight, can follow a trail three days' old, and,
provided he is allowed an occasional meal of six pounds of
meat and two of bread, will march stoically and uncom
plainingly for almost any length of time.
Major Alexander's surmise was proved correct all too
78

ALARMING NEWS
soon; for, before the soldiers had penetrated a couple
of miles, assegais began to whiz through the trees, some
times singly or in twos and threes, sometimes in denser
flights. The Highland infantry were ordered to fire a
volley into the bush, but not a cry or a movement
announced that a single shot had taken effect. Yet, no
sooner was the march resumed than two of the Hot
tentots dropped stone dead, each transfixed by an assegai.
Another halt was called and search parties were told off
to examine the bushes on either side of the path.
This plan was attended with more success ; and very
soon an occasional shot, followed by a scream, betokened
that the blacks were being routed from their places of
concealment. Then arose a good deal of clamour, and
shouts for a Hottentot interpreter ; and a couple of
Highlanders appeared before Major Alexander, dragging
a stalwart Kaffir between them.
A Kaffir — be it said to his credit — will fight to the last,
so long as he retains his weapons, even against a score of
men; but disarmed he becomes an abject coward. One
of the Hottentots who knew the prisoner's dialect was
called, and proceeded to question him as to the strength
and position of the enemy.
The replies elicited were of an alarming nature. In the
first place, the black admitted that an up-country mission-
station and its occupants had been destroyed, and that
an English trader, named Pureed, who lived forty miles
further on in the forest had been murdered ; in the second
place, that Hintza, king of the Amakosa Kaffirs, who had
been regarded as a firm adherent of the Government, had
all along been playing a double game ; that he had but
79

A FORTY-MILE GALLOP
lately received fifty thousand head of stolen cattle, and
was now in the neighbourhood of Purcell's farm, gathering
a force to oppose the march of the British.
After a short consultation with the commander,
Alexander volunteered to lead a flying column to Purcell's
farm to test the truth of the Kaffir's words, and to search
for Hintza ; and, leaving the main body to follow more
at leisure, he started off with a small body of light horse
and a Hottentot guide, on his forty-mile forest gallop.
In four hours' time, bleeding from an assegai wound
and from frequent contact with the rough branches, and
having left two of his men dead by the wayside, he
reached the farm — or what had once been a farm. The
place was now a smouldering heap, and close by lay the
mutilated body of the murdered man.
Before dark the httle troop had scoured the whole of
the woods surrounding the ruin without seeing any sign
of a Kaffir, and now commenced its return march through
a drenching rain. To ride at a gallop on fresh horses,
eager for battle and flushed with the prospect of victory,
does not, perhaps, call for any great degree of valour;
but to return slowly, empty-handed and disappointed,
faint from hunger and loss of blood, chilled to the bone by
a rain which is one of the surest forerunners of fever,
through endless miles of pitch-black, unknown forest —
to do all this silently and without complaining, when
every step may lead into an ambuscade of the enemy,
is no coward's work. After proceeding at a miserable
crawl for close on fifteen miles, they had to admit that the
horses could go no further that night — or rather morning,
for it was now past midnight. 80

A FALSE ALARM
The rain had stopped, and the troopers were able to
make some attempt at a camp ; and, while this was being
arranged, Alexander and the Hottentot set off on foot
to reconnoitre the neighbourhood. They had walked less
than a quarter of a mile when a turn of the path brought
them within sight of what looked like a watch-fire, some
way ahead.
" Our fire, Baas ! " exclaimed the Hottentot joyfully.
It seemed too good to be true that the main body could
be so near, though they had had reasonable time in which
to reach that point ; and the major stopped mechanically
and began to calculate the odds as to the fire being that
of friend or foe. While the two men stood thus silently
there was an unexpected rustling among the bushes near
at hand that made both start, and take hurriedly to their
weapons ; and, immediately following the sound, came the
abrupt metallic rattle that they had learned to associate
with a handful of assegais knocking one against another.
Holding his breath, the major stood with drawn sword,
straining his eyes in a futile attempt to pierce the dark
ness that veiled the enemy from sight. Gradually the
rattling increased till the listeners could no longer believe
it to be the result of accident ; but before there was time
to speculate further, a dimly outlined form sprang out from
the bush. Alexander slashed it with his sabre even before
ib reached the ground, and the howl that followed came
from no Kaffir, but a wild dog ; moreover, as the clatter of
assegais came nearer, a huge porcupine came into view,
with quills erect, and bristling with resentment against
the dog that had been annoying it.
The major broke into a roar of laughter, bub, at the first
6 81

NEARING THE ENEMY
sound of his laugh, there was heard the menacing click of a
musket-lock, accompanied by the sharp, incisive "Who
goes there ? " of a Highlander outpost.
Had the wearied horses of the volunteers continued
their journey for another six hundred yards or so they
would have found themselves in their own camp.
The first thing that the major learnt on reporting him
self was that it was only by sheer luck that his disturbers
were nothing more dangerous than a porcupine and a dog,
for Kaffirs had been hanging about the camp, had
assegaied a Highlander, and two or three of them had
been shot by the sentries.
During the next few days the forest was pretty
thoroughly searched, and, one night, Hottentot spies
returned with the news that the enemy had at last been
sighted in force. Hintza's camp, where were most of the
stolen cattle, lay a mile or two beyond the fringe of the
forest to the far north-west, and less than a day's rapid
march would enable D'Urban to lay siege to it.
At daybreak the reveille sounded, and, with but little
delay, the army moved forward — first, the Hottentot
guides, then the Highlanders, under Alexander, then the
irregular cavalry, consisting of English dragoons and
Boers, under D'Urban and Colonel Smith. The march, as
had been foreseen, was a tedious one. Sometimes the
trees were not too thick to allow of a steady quick march,
then, before men and horses had grown comfortably accus
tomed to this, the path would narrow again, often to such
an extent that they had to go in Indian file, and it was
late in the afternoon before there seemed any likelihood
of the army's reaching open ground again.
82

ATTACKED BY KAFFIRS
The first intimation that the forest must be coming to
an end was the sight of a mountain of considerable height,
girdled by bush and rocks ; and this, said the guides, was
a bare couple of miles from Hintza's kraal.
Once more the trees closed in, the path narrowing
down to a mere thread as it drew near to the foot of the
mountain. This was almost reached by the Hottentot
advance guard when they suddenly turned and fled
screaming back to join the Highlanders.
" The Kaffirs are on us ! " they cried ; and Alexander
could now see that the rocks in front were hedged and
spiked with assegais, and, even while he looked, a
body of Kaffirs, impatient to be at the foe, sprang from
their hiding-places and rushed madly on the advancing
force. If once the Highlanders could get clear ofthe trees it was
likely that they would make a clean sweep of the blacks.
But between them and the foot of the mountain was a
strip of rough ground forty yards wide, overgrown so
thickly with trees and bushes that scarce in any place
could two men stand shoulder to shoulder, and occupied
now by three hundred desperate Kaffirs, armed, many
of them, with muskets. The soldiers were disordered
through the sudden retreat of the Hottentots, and com
pletely off their guard ; many were weakened by fever and
dysentery and the long march, and the cavalry behind
were treading on their heels.
But, though the foremost men were dropping under the
sudden shower of bullets and spears, the Kaffirs were not
to have it all their own way. There was a " skirl " of the
bag-pipes, a few notes on a bugle, a couple of abrupt
83

THE BATTLE
commands from Alexander, then a volley rattled through
the forest, and the Highlanders had begun to avenge
their dead. Foot by foot they worked their way at the
bayonet's point through the tangle of men and trees, while
the cavalry behind pushed round them and at last gained
the jopen. The Kaffirs fell back and back, and finally
made a hurried retreat to the rocks, behind which another
and larger detachment of them lay in waiting ; and by the
time the Highlanders had reached the plain the only
blacks to be seen were those whose weapons and heads
showed above the sheltering crags.
Again the bugles blew, and the Scotch soldiers knew
that they were expected to climb those jagged rocks and
dislodge the enemy. For that they cared little ; they had
'found themselves" again, and were ready to scale the
mountain to its summit, if need were. In awful silence
they stormed the natural outworks and bastions (behind
which a well-disciplined force could have kept a whole
army at bay), indifferent to the hail of stones and
assegais and musket-balls that poured down on them,
steadily driving the Kaffirs from point to point with
bullet or bayonet, till the defenders could climb no farther
and must either stay to be slain by the Highlanders, or
slink down the hill-side, offering themselves as marks for
the carbines of the cavalry below.
Ab length it was all over ; the last Kaffir had either fled
or had fallen fighting to the end, and the British were free
to camp for the night.
In the morning a strange sight was to be seen. The
whole plain beyond the mountain was a dark, moving
mass which, as it came nearer, proved to be a herd of
84

HINTZA'S SURRENDER
about ten thousand of the stolen cattle, which some
Kaffirs were bringing back as a peace-offering ; and pre
sently, to the tent where D'Urban, Smith and Alexander
were sitting in consultation, came three black ambassadors
between a file of soldiers. Hintza wanted peace.
But D'Urban's reply was short and to the point.
" Tell Hintza that we have no wish to shed another drop
of blood, but there will be no peace till he surrenders in
person ; and if he doesn't come to us we shall very soon
come to him."
Late that afternoon a stir went round the camp :
" Hintza is coming ! "
Across the plain, at the head of forty well-armed blacks,
rode the Kaffir king on a magnificent iron-grey horse.
As he came nearer, Alexander, who was to conduct him to
the general, could see that he was a splendidly-made,
dignified-looking man of middle age, over six feet in
height, dressed in a leopard-skin mantle and tricked out
with beads and bracelets of gold or iron.
In the presence of the three leaders he avowed himself
humble and apologetic ; swore that he now heard for the
first time either of the murder of Europeans or of the
stealing of cattle, and that he had no control whatever
over the actions of the Kaffir chiefs.
D'Urban grimly waited till this tissue of lies came to an
end, and then dictated his terms, which were the imme
diate laying down of arms by the Kaffirs, and the handing
over of the murderers to be shot ; further, compensation
was to be paid to the relatives of the murdered, and a fine
of fifty thousand cattle and a thousand horses to tbe
Government. 85

KAFFIR PERFIDY
'' You will be detained for the present," added D'Urban,
" and must let me know your decision within forty-eight
hours." Hintza was given accommodation befitting his rank,
and comported himself with dignity and humility. But,
in the morning, when the bag-pipes sounded through the
camp he sprang up with a loud scream, danced wildly for
a moment, and then sat down again, crying bitterly. The
reason for his grief, he said, was that the pipes reminded
him of his children at home, crying at his long absence.
That evening he formally signified his assent to the
British terms, and agreed to guide the army to his kraal
on the following day. But, meanwhile, in sending out
many of his forty men with orders to the chiefs to surrender,
he contrived, as Alexander afterwards discovered, to add a
private contradictory message, calling on the heads of the
tribes to come to his assistance, but to beware of the white
soldiers. When all was ready for the march to the kraal, Hintza
was placed at the head of the cavalry column, between
Alexander and Colonel Smith, and started to lead the
way, ostensibly to his camp, but really, as the officers
knew from the Hottentot scouts, in a somewhat different
direction. All at once the king struck his horse across
the withers with the staff of his assegai which, out of
courtesy, he had been allowed to retain ; and, before his
two companions could grasp the situation, was careering
away towards the forest.
Instantly the chase began, and Smith, the best-mounted
man of the troop, was soon only twenty yards behind the
fugitive. Drawing a pistol the colonel fired, missed his
86

The King's Escape
Hintza the Kaffir king was a magnificent man, of over six feet. Detained practically as
prisoner, he managed to escape, and in so doing almost succeeded in assegaing Colonel Smith.

THE END OF HINTZA
aim, and then hurled the weapon with all his force at the
Kaffir. It missed the man but struck the horse, which
shied, reared, and became for the moment unmanageable ;
and the next instant the two men were abreast. Dodging
the spear-point which was levelled at his face, Smith
seized the king by his mantle and dragged him out of the
saddle ; but, before he himself could dismount, the black
was on his feet again, had hurled his assegai at the
colonel, piercing him through the arm, and had dived into
the bushes out of sight by the time Alexander and a
couple of dragoons had reached the spot.
To penetrate the thicket on horseback was an impossi
bility ; but, while Alexander was shouting directions to
the men behind, a round black object showed itself for a
couple of seconds above a low bank. There came at the
same moment a sharp report from the carbine of one of
the dragoons, and the head disappeared. Hintza was
dead, and the Kaffir rising was at an end.

87

CHAPTER VII
THE FOREST OF MOUNT TAURUS
The Pontic mountain forest — Its mineral wealth — The Chesney and
Estcourt exploring expedition — A morning climb — The finest
view in Asiatic Turkey — Lost — Nature of the forest — A night
with the herdsmen — " Hot coffee ! " — The reception at the inn —
Making a dash for safety — The house of Melangena Oghlu — The
incomprehensible "Frank'' — Still without a guide — The Turco
mans and their dogs — Finding the way in the dark — The
Armenian monastery.
The Pontic mountain forest — the home, probably, of the
Hittites of Old Testament fame — lies almost along the
Mediterranean coast, east of Smyrna and due south of
Angora. The district might easily be made one of the
wealthiest in the world ; for, below the oaks and firs and
beeches of the forest, lie gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and a
score of other valuable minerals ; while, on its outskirts,
is abundance of magnificent marble and serpentine. But
the Turkish and Turcoman population do not trouble
themselves about such things, and so this forest remains
untouched in many parts, even to this day.
In 1835 an expedition, under Colonels Estcourt and
Chesney, undertook to explore the district round about
the river Euphrates, and, in fact, the Anatolian peninsula
in general. The work was carried on sometimes by boat,
sometimes on horse or camel-back. At times small parties

A MORNING CLIMB
of two and three traversed the mountain passes and forest
by-paths; and it was on one of these occasions that
Colonel Chesney was not only lost for three days in the
Pontic forest, but might easily have met his death.
One beautiful morning Chesney and a friend strolled
away from the main party then engaged on the ex
ploration of Mount Taurus, for an hour or so, while the
baggage-horses were being laden, after a night halt at
a village which lay at the foot of the mountain forest.
Leaving the village they climbed the first sloping stage
of the ridge, with the intention of seeing what was sup
posed to be the most splendid and extensive view to be
found in Asiatic Turkey. Arrived at the platform for
which they had been making, the two friends found that
their labour had not been in vain ; behind them were
ravines and precipices, some choked with foliage, others
absolutely bare ; on one side were the snow-clad points
of the central crests of Mount Taurus ; on the other, dense
masses of forest, occasionally interrupted by long, narrow
stretches of grassy plain or by a silvery net-work of
sparkling streams. Altogether it was such a prospect as
made them forget for a while that their companions
awaited them, and that they had also come out with the
intention of killing what game they could for dinner.
Turning away at last, they forced a path along the
thickly-wooded platform and the next upward slope, and
were soon beating the forest for available birds or beasts.
For a long time they sought to no purpose. Huge oaks
and beeches covered the ground, and their progress was
continually hindered by undergrowth of prickly-oak,
myrtle, juniper and Christ's Thorn; and, if these dis-

IN THE PONTIC FOREST
appeared for a short time, it was only to give place to a
close matting of liquorice-plants and prickly dwarf acacias.
By the time the hunters had killed a few partridges it
was clear that, long before they could get back to the
village, the main party would have pushed on towards
the next stopping-place — the old town of Sis ; and, inas
much as the route that would be followed by the pack-
horses was roughly parallel to the path that the two
adventurers were trying to make for themselves, the only
thing to be done was to keep on their way through the
forest till they came in sight of the probable meeting-
place. After a time the forest showed signs of becoming a little
more open, and, from the cries of wild duck and other
water-birds, the travellers perceived that they were
approaching a stream or lake. It turned out to be a
little river, which they must either swim or ford; the
Urlinjah (as they afterwards discovered), a branch of the
river Sihon. When they had explored the bank for a few
hundred yards down-stream, they were lucky enough to
come to a ford, near an abandoned burial-ground, on which
stood the ruins of a small mosque. Wading across, they
found the other bank more thickly wooded than ever, with
no sign of either habitation or path.
They had now been walking for nearly five hours, and
were not only tired and hungry, but beginning to feel
anxious as to their chance of escape from the beautiful,
but scarcely enticing, tangle of thorn and shrub. After a
scanty meal and a rest, they plodded manfully on again,
climbed an adjacent height, in order to obtain a view of
the country that lay before them, and to select the line
90

LOST
which appeared most open without causing them to
deviate unduly from the proper direction; then down
again into a deep vale, where the branches of the Christ's
Thorn tore their clothes and hands, causing intolerable
torture. They got a temporary rest from this kind of
thing by following the course of a rivulet, the pebbly bed
of which was, at times, interrupted by tamarisks and
oleanders ; but the head-waters of the stream were soon
reached, and the crest of another wooded ridge had to be
surmounted — only to offer the now wearied men just such
another vale and ridge as those they had passed imme
diately before.
Before sunset the travellers reached a second stream
and again sat down to rest ; and here a very uncomfortable
thought soon occurred to them : they were at an altitude
of two or three thousand feet, and, however hot the neigh
bourhood might be by day, here, within as it were a stone's
throw of the summit of Mount Taurus, they were likely to
find the night particularly cold. Sunset in the Pontic
range is only of a few minutes' duration ; by experience
Colonel Chesney knew that the panther and a small
species of tiger, both dangerous to foot-passengers, were
in the habit of going hunting immediately after dark ;
already jackals, lynxes, and hyaenas were prowling about
the stream ; everything pointed to the folly and danger of
lingering by the river, or of attempting so late in the day
to penetrate such a patch of forest as awaited the way
farers when they should have crossed to the other bank.
The alternative was to follow the strip of path that ran by
the water's edge, and which, though evidently used but
rarely of late, must surely lead to a camp or village or road.
91

A NIGHT WITH HERDSMEN
Carrying their guns cocked, and keeping a very watch
ful eye all round, the two walked hastily along this path
for about a couple of miles, and at last heard, above the
plash of the water and the loud hum of the great beetles,
the distant sound ofthe barking of dogs. In another half-
hour they had reached an encampment of herdsmen —
rough, simple souls, who willingly afforded them bread
and a night's lodging, and with whom the Englishmen
shared the few birds that they had killed.
When the colonel woke his companion, it was still quite
dark ; both men were perished with cold though they had
slept in their clothes, and they gladly abandoned the poor
shelter of the wooden hut for a brisk renewal of their
march. Fording the river near the camp, and following
a moderately wide path indicated by one of the herdsmen,
they walked along for two weary hours before a long line
of light on the Eastern horizon told them that the day
was approaching. Very soon it became light enough for
them to see that, ahead of them, at the foot of the slope
which they were descending, were the roofs of a small
village. " Hot coffee ! " ejaculated the colonel ; and, cheered with
the expectation, the thirsty pair doubled their speed, and
almost ran down the hill towards the nearest house.
Now this was in the early days of the exploring expedi
tion, and the colonel's stock of native languages was, as
yet, limited to Arabic ; the two friends were reaching a
Turkish district, and neither understood half-a-dozen
words of the language. Still, both had money with
them, and presumably there need be no trouble in
making the natives understand their simple wants.
92

RECEPTION AT AN INN
The first of the houses was, for a forest village, large
and imposing-looking ; the travellers discovered later that
it was an inn of great local importance. Walking upstairs
without ceremony, they opened a door and entered a large
room, at one end of which were the dying embers of a
fire ; while the raised divan on each side, and even the
central space between, was covered with turbaned Turks,
fast asleep, with heads pointed towards Mecca in orthodox
Mohammedan fashion. Stepping cautiously round one
head and over a body or two, in order to reach the fire
place, Chesney and his companion deposited their guns on
the floor, and set to work to bring the embers to life
again. The noise, however, made by the colonel in reach
ing for a coffee-pot aroused some of the sleepers, who, one
after another, began to. sit up, rub their eyes, and glare
angrily upon the trespassers. The latter immediately
endeavoured to explain their presence and their wants,
but to no purpose. Moved either by the Eastern hatred
of foreigners or else by the genuine belief that the ex
plorers were robbers, two or three of the most wide-awake
of the inmates sprang towards the doorway to guard it,
while others drew knives or pistols, and shouted words
which the strangers could only construe as threats. Again
Chesney made frantic signs that he had no evil intent ;
took money from his pocket, and endeavoured to show
that his gun was not even loaded.
While thus occupied, the Colonel was horror-stricken to
see the biggest man in the room step deliberately forward
with a long knife in his hand and raise it to aim a blow
at his friend's back. Snatching up his gun, with a sharp
cry of warning to his friend, Chesney struck the would-be
93

A DASH FOR SAFETY
assassin a blow with the gun-stock that stunned him and
must have broken his shoulder.
" Now make a dash for it," he said hurriedly. " Don't
fire, and don't make more noise than you can help. Do
as you see me do."
Still holding his gun by the barrels, the Colonel swung
it round him, intimating that those who were still reclin
ing would be wise to continue in that position ; knocked
a pistol out of the hand of a Turk who was taking careful
aim at him ; then, using the gun-butt as though it were
a bayonet or a broom, he charged with all his weight at
the defenders of the door ; his companion following him
in like fashion. The suddenness of the onslaught threw
the Turks off their guard — and balance ; the two English
men rushed past them and were down-stairs and well
along the road before any alarm could have been given.
Strangely enough, no attempt was made to follow them ;
and on the road the only sign of life was a small boy
sleepily strolling across to a pen to let out some cattle,
and he took no notice of them.
It was now daylight; the morning was clear though
still frosty, and the travellers found themselves approach
ing more closely a rugged stretch of mountain-chain that
they had noticed on the previous evening. Passing over
some low, forest-clad hills, they came to a more open
valley, watered by a bend of the stream which they had
already crossed. Here and there was a hut and, in the
distance, a mansion-like building. After another hour's
walk they came across a shepherd, who at first fled at
their approach, but upon frequently repeated signs of
friendliness, was at last persuaded to return. He
94

MELANGENA OGHLU
explained, as well as he could, that the large house was
the country residence of Melangena Oghlu, a Turcoman
chieftain, whose name the Englishmen were familiar with,
his family having for generations been governors of
Adanah. Toiling on again, they reached the house and
determined to ask for a guide for the rest of the way;
for the shepherd seemed totally ignorant as to the route
for Sis.
They found it, as usual, a large square building with no
windows on the outside, and entered by a single arched
gateway. The ground-floor was used merely for stables,
the residential part occupying the floor above. After
some hesitation, one of the servants who understood
Arabic, took the new-comers to a reception-room and
brought them a meal of bread and milk ; and, when this
was finished, took them before the Turcoman chief.
Melangena Oghlu received them civilly, and in reply to
their request for a guide, told them that he had in his
service a " Frank " who, even if he did not know the way
to Sis, could at least accompany them as their interpreter
to the shepherds or forest-dwellers who might be supposed
to know it.
The Englishmen delightedly accepted the gracious offer
and awaited the arrival of the individual in question with
no small eagerness and curiosity. But, when he appeared,
he proved to be a Russian who, apart from his own tongue
and the Turco dialect, did not know a syllable of any lan
guage on the face of the earth ; and the explorers could
only communicate with him by means of the attendant
who understood Arabic. This was a twofold blow; not
only had the wayfarers' hopes been raised to no purpose,
95

A TOILSOME MARCH
but the discovery that they could not speak or understand
the "Frank's" language prejudiced their host and his
court against them, causing them to be regarded as some
what suspicious characters. Indeed, it was some time
before sufficient explanation could be made to ensure
their being allowed to leave ; and even this permission
was given with very scant courtesy.
After having walked for another couple of hours,
Colonel Chesney and his companion reached some more
open country again, which ended in another village, where,
letting it be understood that they had come direct from
Melangena Oghlu, they were given coffee by the sheik,
and were able to procure a guide as far as the next river,
where there was a public ferry across ; but even here no
one seemed ever to have heard of Sis, and once more the
wanderers were thrown back on their compass as their only
guide. Their afternoon march was long and laborious —
not the less so from their having been on foot since
two hours before sunrise ; the walk was too toilsome for
them to attempt much conversation; their minds were
too much taken up with the obstacles that presented
themselves at every moment: the increasing impenetra
bility of the jungle, the sheets of water, and the broken
cliffs, that conspired to make the way almost impassable.
Now a break in the wood seemed to promise an easier
path ; but it was soon found to be backed by more crumb
ling cliffs. Sometimes a water-course looked as though it
would lead them out of the difficulty ; but after a while
they were forced to the conclusion that it led only to the
loftiest and most inaccessible parts of the range. But for
such doubtful relief to the monotony, there seemed an
96

A TURCOMAN CAMP
MjpftTrmjT sameness about everything; in five boms lie
aa|y real moment^ diversion was the tilling of a
-venomous snake.
As. at sunset, they emerged from a wooded glade, they
esme upon an elevated platform of green in lie centre of
which was a Timsoman camp, made up of tuts built of
hurdles and mad. This was guarded by dogs, so fierce
list both men mvahasisrily prepared to defend them
selves with pistols, till lie Colonel happened to remember
that lie surest "way to meet death at lie bands of a
Tarcuirjan is te HQ Ms horse or lis dog ; '"yet," says lie
explorer, "these sem><savages never call their dogs off,
bnt may be seen moving leisurely from tent te test, or
earning out to till some long serpent that is in lie fold,
whiont bestowing a loot, still less a word, upon &
stranger -fighting Ms -way against the odds of a dozen
dogs at, Ms heels."
With jmiraonsiicis, smacks and abuse, lie adventurers
worked their way through the snappmg, yelping ring of
dogs, and, after a lengthy statement in dumb show,
arranged with the Turcomans for a night's lodging in one
of the huts. Both slept so soundly that mght that it was
dayhght hefare they were ready to start ; and then, as
they had hah" airtacipated, their entertainers were power-
3es to direct them heyond the next few miles of the
journey. They walked vigorously tiD noon through jungles of
clematis, hoot-thorn and wild vine, and now at last the
forest seemed te be coming to an end ; sheep and cattle
grew more numerous ; Turcoman dogs were less lite wild
heaste, and in lie distance was a prospected plains, barren
* «7

TRAVELLING IN THE DARK
hills and houses. At another shepherds' encampment
they were hospitably received and had the way to Sis
pointed out to them. Now that the forest was becoming
sparse it looked a short journey thither, and the missing
men were so anxious to allay the fears of their friends,
who must have arrived in the town nearly two days be
fore, that, negligent of fatigue, they hurried off again, and
did not stop till, just before sunset, they began to realize
that they seemed no nearer to the distant roofs and towers
than when they left the Turcomans. And now they were
so worn out that they could scarcely stand; and there
was little hope of any shelter, till the town was reached.
After a brief rest they toiled onwards again ; but, before
they had gone another couple of miles it was quite dark.
Vet there was nothing for it but to keep on ; the night
frosts made it dangerous to sleep out of doors, and neither
of the explorers could rely upon himself to keep watch
against the beasts while the other slept; indeed, they
could almost have fallen asleep as they walked. Come
what might they must go on till they met with some sort
of human habitation, even if they had to fight dogs and
Turcomans before they could get a bed.
At last a large stone building stood out against the sky,
not more than a couple of hundred yards away ; in the
uncertain light it might have been anything ; but even a
convict-prison would have been hailed gleefully. It turned
out to be an Armenian monastery, and its doors were soon
opened to the travellers.
As they accompanied the porter across the outer court,
the bell at the gate through which they had just passed
was rung again ; and their guide, with an apology, ran
98

ARMENIAN MONASTERY
back to open to the new-ooiner, who, to the
relief of the wanderers, proved to be thei
Yossnt The monastery was in a sort of suburb of Sis,
and the dragoman, who had been occupied all day in
malrmg enquiries all over the town feu the lest members
of his party, had, as a last hope, come out to tins place to
ask ifanyihmg had poss&hj been heard of i

CHAPTER VIII
IN A NEW ZEALAND FOREST
The New Zealand forest — Frederick Edward Maning — The forest
settlement— Various claimants to land and purchase-money —
Servants and "hangers-on" — Maori freebooters — Various visitors
— A fight with a Maori chief— The end of a thorough-paced
scoundrel — The J" taboo" — The innocent offender — Boycotted —
Arrival of the " tohunga " — The taboo removed.
In the early years of Queen Victoria's reign no country
offered a better opening to young men of wandering and
adventurous inclinations than New Zealand Living was
cheap, game was abundant, the natives were unsophis
ticated ; better still, it was the land of sheep-rearing, and it
was even said that gold was to be found in certain districts.
Allured by so promising an outlook, many hundreds
of Englishmen of all classes found themselves gravitating
towards the new country ; and, among them, one whose
name is still remembered as judge of the Native Land
Court — the late Frederick Edward Maning.
Some thirty miles north of the city of Wellington there
lies a well-wooded tract of country, constituting the
remains of what was then New Zealand's greatest forest —
a tangled beautiful mass of lianas and nikau palms, giant
lilies and firs, interspersed with tree-ferns, sixty feet in
height, and huge kauri pines, the diameter of whose
trunk often exceeds four yards. It was to this forest

THE FOREST SETTLEMENT
that Maning betook himself soon after landing ; and here
he pitched his camp on an open space within a mile of
a forest hamlet, with the Maori inhabitants of which he
hoped to establish a position as trader, agent, and adjuster
of difficulties in general.
But he was not to be left long in undisturbed possession
of the land he had thus appropriated ; for, on the day
after his arrival, the native chief appeared and, through
the mouthpiece of an interpreter, demanded payment for
the ground. The demand was not exorbitant; Maning.
paid it willingly enough, hailing the transaction as a
prelude to friendly trading relations, and began to think
that he had at last found a home.
However, on the day on which he started to build a
permanent hut, half the men in the hamlet paid him
a visit and sat down to watch his proceedings. At length
the interpreter came nearer, accompanied by three friends
who, he explained, had "called for the purchase-money."
Maning protested mildly, whereupon a good deal of
clamour arose, from which he gathered that each of his
new acquaintances laid claim to his plot ;— the first, be
cause his father had killed all the rats in the immediate
vicinity; the second, because his grandfather had been
murdered under one of the trees; the third, because his
grandfather was the murderer. Each and all of these
claims had to be settled, and were soon followed by others,
equally just and reasonable, so that three months had
elapsed before the settler found himself in undisputed
possession of his plot.
Meanwhile he had lost no opportunity of studying
Maori manners, morals, and speech, or of ingratiating

A CHANCE VISIT
himself with the chief. He now engaged eight natives as
household servants, guides, grooms, etc. ; these brought
with them a dozen hangers-on, who somehow managed
from that day forward to live at Maning's expense — a
state of affairs to which he submitted because their keep
was not an expensive matter, and in the event of a sudden
raid by wandering, freebooting tribes, they might be
useful as house-carls.
The first year of his residence in the forest was peaceful
enough ; he found the natives kindly disposed and mode
rately honest, and very ready to buy fire-arms, blankets,
and the like, for a periodical supply of which he had
arranged with English merchants. But during his second
year, rumours began to spread as to the misdeeds of a
certain freebooter chief, the recognized bully of the forest.
Maning did not greatly distress himself on this account ;
he was young and muscular, and had a firm belief in the
efficacy of powder and shot ; and his coolness was largely
instrumental in cheering the servants and villagers who
hitherto had kept the bandit at a distance by means
of bribes.
About this time came another break in the monotony
of his life, In the shape of a chance visit from two young
Englishmen who had recently arrived in the colony.
On the second morning of their stay it became necessary
to lay in an extra stock of provisions, and Maning went
over to the village to negotiate for mutton. As he stepped
out into the clearing on his return, he encountered one
of the English lads, who, gun in hand, demanded if he had
seen a native of gigantic proportions, laden with stolen
goods 1 The young fellow's face was bruised and bleed-

A MAORI FREEBOOTER
ing, and his demeanour suggested that the large-sized
individual in question would do well to keep out of
gun-shot. "What's wrong, young one?" enquired the trader
anxiously. " Come into the house and see."
Maning's guest seized him by the arm and dragged him
towards the wooden bungalow. In the doorway the second
Englishman was slowly raising himself to a sitting posture,
as though rousing from sleep or stupor, while two or three
of the native servants were stealthily and tremulously
creeping out of hiding-places behind trees or bushes.
Maning had lived so long at peace with his neighbours
that he could not readily grasp such a condition of affairs,
and he turned blankly on the nearest of the servants and
demanded an explanation,
He learned that the dreaded brigand chief had suddenly
put in an appearance ; had asked for gunpowder, spirits,
and knives ; and, on the stranger lads not complying with
a request which they, of course, did not understand, had
knocked both of them senseless, threatened the servants
with death, and finally made off with everything he could
conveniently carry.
Such unprovoked violence would have aroused the
anger of more peaceable folk than Maning. Having
expressed his candid opinion as to his servants' valour,
he added wrathfully : " Go and tell that precious scoundrel
to step round when I'm at home; he'll find trouble in
store for him."
Now it came to pass that the simple Maori servants
took upon themselves to obey'their master very literally,
103

FIGHT WITH THE CHIEF
with the result that, one day when every one but Maning
was away on a fishing excursion, the robber chief marched
into the house, fully armed, and squatted down by the
door. He made no verbal remark, but attitude and
expression said pretty plainly : " Here I am ; kick me
out, if you're man enough."
Maning examined his new acquaintance slowly and
carefully ; all told, he was about as promising a ruffian as
ever decorated a gallows ; he had killed two wives, had
cut off his own brother's right arm, and had, for over
ten years, sedulously defied and terrorised the more timid
forest chiefs.
At last the Englishmen stood up and remarked very
quietly : " Get out of this ;" and accompanied the order by
an exceedingly well-judged kick. The Maori stood — or
squatted — his ground for a couple of seconds ; then,
springing to his feet, levelled a murderous blow at his
adversary's head with a war hatchet. But, before the
weapon could fall, Maning had dodged under it and closed
with the chief; and instantly the two were engaged in a
wrestle which bade fair to end in the death of one or the
other. For over three minutes the combatants strained and
swayed and lurched to no purpose, every minute seeming
an hour, the silence unbroken save by the spasmodic
catching of their breath. Each was mistaken in his man ;
the Maori had not allowed for such grit and hardness and
sinew — the result of years of temperate living and rigid
training — in a comparatively lightly-built man; and
Maning had scarcely expected to find litheness and long
wind in a man who turned the scale at sixteen stone, and
104

The Maori aimed a murderous blow
Maning dodged the war-hatchet, and closed with the ruffian, who was a much bigger and
heavier man. For over three minutes they were locked in a terrible struggle, when fortunately
the Maori's foot slipped, and Maning got him by the throat.

A DESPERATE STRUGGLE
whose average dinner consisted of about seven pounds of
fat mutton.
Such conflicts most necessarily be decided either by
superior science or by sheer accident. The savage's foot
happened to slip ; immediately he lay full-length on the
ground with Maning over him. And now a new struggle
began, for not only would the chief not loose his hold, but
even began to bring bis teeth into play as well, fixing
them with such vigour in his enemy's shoulder that
Maning could almost have screamed with the pain. In a
hand-to-band scuffle with a savage, a wise man will hardly
regard either Queensbeiy or Grseco-Boman "rules" as
incumbent Maning, already nearly breathless, and now
giddy and sick with pain, at last contrived to wrencb bis
right hand from under the chiefs shoulder, and with some
difficulty seized him by the throat; at all costs the
grinding teeth-grip must be relaxed or the agony of it
would drive him mad. Deeper and deeper the white
man's fingers embedded themselves in the brawny neck,
till not only did the jaws loose their grasp but the tongue
and eyes began to loll out, and tbe veins of both neck and
forehead swelled to bursting.
Instinctively Maning relaxed his grip as the savage's
arms fell listlessly away from him, leaving him at liberty
to rise. He staggered on to his feet and stood over his
almost unconscious foe; but, before he could definitely
take in the situation, he heard tbe Maori mutter : a I am
conquered ; help me to rise."
With more good nature than caution, the Englishman
stooped to comply ; and at the same moment the prostrate
man stretched out his hand to reach a knife that lay on
105

A TERRIBLE SUSPENSE
the floor. Fortunately it rolled away from him as his
finger-tips touched the haft. Maning paused on one knee
to seize the hand that still strayed after any weapon that
might be within reach ; then was unexpectedly knocked
halfway across the room. Concentrating his spite and his
remaining strength in one powerful blow, the robber-chief
had struck him full across the mouth with his free hand.
Reeling and half blinded with shock and rage, Maning
threw himself on the freebooter; but, before he could
seize or strike, there was a confused buzz of voices in the
room, and one of the English lads was helping him to his
feet, while the other, with the aid of half-a-dozen servants,
was dragging the intruder outside. With but little cere
mony or gentleness they " frog's marched " him down to
the river-side, flung him into the canoe which he had
moored there, and left him.
For the next few days a terrible suspense overhung
Maning and his friends. The brigand chief would be
almost certain to gather his tribe together for an expedi
tion of vengeance, and not one of the neighbouring chiefs
could be relied upon as an ally against so formidable a
foe. Servants and " hangers-on " were armed, and a
constant watch was kept ; but for some time nothing was
heard of the enemy. At length, however, the chief was
reported to be "busy " again, and two murders — one of a
native, the other of an Englishman — were traced to him.
On the evening of the day on which this piece of news
came to hand, as one of the English boys was on sentry
duty, the forest suddenly echoed with savage and jubilant
shouts, and a score or more of tattooed natives leapt out of
the brushwood and on to the space in front of the house.
1 06

THE « TABOO'
Before tho young fellow could fire or give the alarm, he
reoognized some of the new-comers as friendly Maoris
from the hamlet.
Maning was soon on the spot, and was immediately
greeted with the intelligence that the brigand chief had
been caught by a young English stock-breeder on the
fringe of the forest, who had thought it no sin, but rather
a duty to society, to cut short his abominable career with
a revolver bullet. Hence the rejoicing.
This was Frederick Maning's first and last experience of
Maori warfare ; but an even more unpleasant situation was
in store for him.
Among the Polynesians, by far the most potent and
lasting superstition is the *' tapu " or " taboo " ; that is to
say, the prohibition from doing or seeing or touching or
discussing (as the case may be) certain things which have
received a sort of religious consecration. To give an
instance, soon after Maning's arrival in North Island he
was about to get a light for his pipe from a fire near at
hand, when half-a-dozen excited Maoris surrounded him
and forced him to wait while one of them procured a flame
by rubbing one piece of wood on another. The fire was
"taboo"; sacred!
As he became better versed in New Zealand theology
he discovered many other " taboos," and both prudence
and good taste made him respect them. But where the
" taboo " is concerned, a stranger must be indeed wary if
he is never to transgress ; even the most right-thinking
Maori, seated for the first time at an English dinner-table,
might, in a fit of absent-mindedness, drink from a decanter
instead of a glass. Similarly, when Maning, in exploring
107

AN INNOCENT OFFENDER
a portion of the forest, came upon a human skull and
endeavoured to give it decent burial by slipping it into a
hole and covering it with earth, he had no intention of
outraging public opinion.
He was being assisted in his researches by fifty natives ;
and no sooner had he touched the skull than, with shrieks
of horror and fear, the whole fifty fled from him. He had
accidentally come upon an old burial-ground and, in inter
fering with the skull, had rendered himself about as
unclean, ceremonially, as it was possible for a man to be.
He already knew enough of the people's traditions to be
aware that things might be made very awkward for him,
so that he was not surprised when, at nightfall, every one
still kept him at a distance. He sat down and watched
them prepare the evening meal, and at last, thinking he
had held aloof as long as decency and repentance de
manded, walked in the direction of the fire. Instantly
every one rose. "Don't come any nearer, we beseech
you," they screamed. " Your food shall be sent to you."
Maning humoured them, and presently two of his men
who, he knew, were devotedly attached to him, advanced
cautiously, bearing food and drink which they set down
within a few yards of him, retiring as he came nearer.
He pulled out his knife and was about to begin on the
broiled meat and bread when a new clamour arose from
his two friends. " Don't touch the food with your hands ;
we'll feed you." Again they sidled up to him, explaining
apologetically that he should have lain on his stomach
and pecked at the food with his teeth.
Hunger makes a man irritable and impatient, and
Maning began to show unmistakable signs of a refusal to
108

BOYCOTTED
be " fed " ; insomuch that the natives left him to his con
science and rejoined their friends. By the time he had
finished his sacrilegious meal the Maories had all dis
appeared, leaving him to find his way home as best he
might. To penetrate the forest without guides was impossible
at night, but by daylight he was on the road home again.
On reaching the house he found it uninhabited; every
one, down to the most inveterate " hanger-on," had
deserted it. He walked to the hamlet ; and every one
fled at his approach ! Half angry, half amused, he
returned to the lonely hut, wondering how long a
" boycott " of this sort might be supposed to last,
Three days passed, and not a soul came near. At this
rate Maning would be obliged to seek another neighbour
hood ; a disastrous matter, after he had spent nearly two
years in establishing himself. To stay where he was
would be not only stagnation but possible starvation.
But, on the fourth day of his excommunication, as he sat
in the doorway, revolving various plans, his ear — well
trained by now to the different forest noises — caught the
sound of a human footstep in the distance. He started
up with an involuntary exclamation of pleasure ; even an
enemy would be welcome. Suddenly there stepped forth
from the brushwood an under-sized, quaintly clad man,
aged, and one-eyed. By his dress Maning knew him for a
" tohunga " or native priest.
Within five yards of the tabooed man the new-comer
stopped and, somewhat loftily ignoring the hearty expres
sion of welcome, began solemnly to murmur a long spell or
enchantment of some kind. This finished, he advanced a
109

THE TABOO REMOVED
step and held out a handful of food to the boycotted one,
briefly exhorting him to " humble himself."
" And I an Englishman and a Christian ! " thought
Maning indignantly ; and for a moment the " tohunga "
was in serious danger of losing the use of his remaining
eye. But implicit obedience to this old fellow's behests
was the only price at which re-admission to a friendly
footing with the natives could be purchased ; and policy
counselled humility.
" Now we can enter the house," said the " tohunga "
when the food was consumed ; and he led the way in.
" Throw all those things on the ground," he commanded.
"Those" things comprised every cooking or household
utensil that the " unclean " might reasonably be supposed
to have used since the taboo was set on him. Once more
Maning hesitated wrathfully ; and once more obeyed.
Solemnly the old man broke up the platters, and crushed
the tin pots, picking up the debris and consigning it to his
basket for future burial.
" Now strip."
"Strip?" "No one will come near you till those clothes are burnt."
" When will my servants return ? "
" When you have destroyed your clothes." Maning dis
robed with alacrity ; and the old gentleman, having seen
his penitent newly clad, withdrew.
That night the servants and the parasites returned, and
friendly relations were re-established with the village ; but,
from that day forth, no power on earth would have per
suaded the future Land Court Judge to touch unburied
bones.

CHAPTER IX
A TEAK FOKEST IN JAVA
The island of Java — The H.M.S. Fly expedition — Joseph Beete
Jukes and Captain Blackwood — Abundance of guides — Fear of
tigers — Camping for the night — A visit from a leopard — A more
terrible visitant — A native killed — The mountain forest — Native
dread of mathematical instruments — A wayside village — The
village orchestra — The tiger-trap — Prickly heat and fever.
Java — probably the most important of the Dutch
possessions — is to-day the best cultivated and most
thickly peopled of the East Indian Islands. Further, its
whole surface is everywhere dotted with mountains — in
fact, it is said that no equal area on the face of the earth
has so many volcanoes ; it has plenty of large towns, often
quite European in structure and appearance, whose streets
are intersected by broad canals; while good railways
penetrate to every point of importance on the island.
Where, then, are the forests ?
A glance at even the most modern of the towns would
satisfy the reader that, not long ago, both valleys and
mountains were clad with luxuriant woodland. Even
now the axe and the bill have spared a sufficiency of
trees and shrubs to justify the remark of a recent writer
(Dr. H. 0. Forbes) that '' nearly every dwelling — native
and European — is embowered in vegetation ; " and sixty
years ago, at the time of the H.M.S. My expedition,

THE 'FLY' EXPEDITION
miles of "absolutely untouched forest" spread over the
island in all directions.
Although the Fly expedition is commonly known by
the name of its commander, Captain Blackwood, the
scientific researches in connection with it were mainly
carried out by the well-known geologist Joseph Beete
Jukes, who was specially appointed as naturalist to the
ship on her voyage round the Sunda Islands. While the
Fly was still lying off Java, a minor expedition to the
interior of the island was decided upon, and a small
party consisting of Captain Blackwood, his First Officer,
and Mr. Jukes, with an interpreter and a servant, landed,
and proceeded by coach and four to Passarouan, a large
sugar-manufacturing town ; and from thence, now on
horseback, now on foot, to more distant stations through
forests of teak, cocoa-nut palms and plantains.
It often happens that a traveller, desirous of passing
through a dangerous neighbourhood — and this was
assuredly the term to apply to the Javanese forests and
jungles, overrun as they then were by wild beasts and,
frequently, by Malay robbers — has a difficulty in obtaining
guides. Here no such difficulty existed ; on the contrary,
Lascars, Malays, Chinamen and half-bloods had offered
themselves by the dozen, anxious to earn a trifling fee,
and generously willing to afford their protection to any
one who was not a Dutchman, against the tigers and
leopards which, as they said, would certainly snatch a
human meal on the smallest opportunity. The English
men laughed at these fears, but nevertheless took half-a-
dozen of the more intelligent natives to go in front of
their horses as a sort of advance-guard.

CAMPING FOR NIGHT
Towards sundown the Malays began to show a dis
position to reduce their pace, and steadily fell back till
they were in danger of being overridden by the horse
men behind them ; and soon the eldest of them turned
to the interpreter and stammered out a hint that the
"English lords" would do well to go no further that
night ; and this suggestion was very heartily backed up
by the other natives, who now began to manifest all the
symptoms of abject fear.
After a brief consultation, Jukes and the two officers
consented to this ; they could not march all night, and
they had no certainty of finding suitable accommodation
at the village which lay nearest to the forest, and which
they certainly could not hope to reach before very late.
The natives, overjoj-ed, soon made a huge fire, while
Mr. Jukes and Captain Blackwood went foraging, and
returned with a couple of young wild pigs, some jungle-
fowl and pea-chicks. Before supper was ended, the forest
was so dark that, outside the immediate light from the
fire, the adventurers might as well have been in the
deepest cellar or cave, as far as ability to see an inch
before their own noses was concerned ; nor was there the
stir of a leaf or the twitter of a bird, or even a movement
on the part of the horses to interrupt the deathly silence
that closed in on them. Even the apes and insects seemed
asleep, and the Malays, huddling as near the fire as was
consistent with not being roasted ahve, were soon in like
condition, as were also the interpreter and the servant.
The two naval officers, more prudent by force of habit
and experience, settled between themselves a system
of sentinel duty, by which the first watch fell to the

VISIT FROM A LEOPARD
lieutenant ; and Jukes, disinclined as yet for sleep, agreed
to keep him company.
Nursing their rifles, the two men sat chatting under
their breath, and at the expiration of a couple of hours,
the naturalist yawningly announced his intention of
going to sleep. He had propped himself cosily against
his saddle, and was pulling his cloak over him, when he
felt the lieutenant's hand on his shoulder and heard him
murmur —
" Pull yourself together ; I fancy there's trouble
coming ; " and, following the direction in which his com
panion was looking, he saw two spots of greenish flame
which could be no other than the eyes of some large beast
approaching the side of the fire on which lay the Malays.
The little lights, however, had disappeared before either
man could take aim ; and Jukes was thinking of im
provising a torch, when one of the horses uttered a
nervous whinny which, the instant afterwards, was
echoed by an agonizing scream of terror from the
lieutenant's mare, which lay just behind where the two
watchmen had been sitting.
The officer turned round sharply. " Wake the captain,"
he said. " Either the brute has got round, or else we've
got 'em on all sides of us." Then he fired hap-hazard to
the left of where the horses were stationed. Instantly all
the men were awake, and making such a commotion that
it was only by accident that Jukes was able to hear a
subdued growl from the spot over which the lieutenant
had fired, and this was drowned almost immediately by
another piercing and prolonged neigh from a third horse.
The captain snatched from the fire a bit of wood which
114

A NATIVE KILLED
had just burst into flame, and held it above his head
walking warily forward.
"Leopard!" he cried abruptly. "Let go at him,
Jukes ; " and the torch-light showed the faint outline of a
large beast either wounded, or couching for a spring. The
naturalist obeyed promptly, and the leopard rolled over
without struggle or sound, his skull smashed by the bullet.
By this time it seemed as though every living thing in
the forest had awakened, and their cries, accentuated by
the darkness and by contrast with the previous stillness,
had begun to create a small Pandemonium, when a loud
shriek rose from some distance on the other side of the
fire : a human cry, so expressive of combined horror and
pain, that even the three leaders, who were accustomed to
regard danger in one form or other as part ofthe ordinary
business of life, shuddered involuntarily.
As they leapt towards the far hide of the little camp,
the naturalist slightly ahead, there came a repetition of
the scream, then howls of dismay from the Malays in
unison. Jukes pulled up suddenly, and gave a cry almost
as horror- stricken as that which had alarmed them.
"Look!" he said in a harsh, strained whisper to the
captain, who too had halted " Fire ! For Heaven's sake,
fire;" and his own unloaded rifle fell unheeded to the
ground, as he buried his face in his hands.
By the uncertain flare of the watch-fire, Blackwood
could now see that a full-grown tiger had sprung on one
of the natives and was mauling, or playing with, the
poor wretch. Jle and the lieutenant both fired; the
tiger gave an angry snarl, hesitated, then skulked away
into the darkness, probably to die.
"5

A MOUNTAIN FOREST
When they reached the unfortunate Malay, he was
stone dead ; in all likelihood from fright rather than from
fatal injury.
As soon as daylight showed some sign of appearing,
everyone was very glad to leave the scene of the tragedy,
and to forget the horrors of the night in the new sight
which awaited them. This was a mountain forest; so
dense, and so pathless, that it looked as though the new
comers might be the first to set foot in it.
Here and there tbe slope was so steep, that the riders
were obliged to dismount and to drag their horses after
them; but inconvenience and fatigue were almost
negligible quantities in presence of the tropical wonders
that surrounded the travellers : the numberless variety of
creeping plants, the parasite ferns, the gorgeous peacocks
and the many-hued reptiles and insects.
At mid-day they reached the summit and dined off a
couple of iedangs — a small species of deer — several herds
of which they had disturbed in their uphill march. The
meal ended, Jukes prepared to take some notes as to
elevation and temperature, while the others endeavoured
to make good their lost night's rest ; and, to this end, he
began to unpack his mathematical instruments. He had
placed his barometer against a tree, and was searching
for something which he had mislaid, when a shout of
alarm rose behind him.
With nerves all on edge from his experiences of the
past night, he sprang towards his rifle and, in doing so,
saw that the natives had all risen from their temporary
couches and were either fleeing hot-foot down the hill, or
else standing aloof with hands outstretched in dismay and
116

DREAD OF BAROMETER
terror; and two were calling out appealingly to him,
though, as he did not know a word of their language, he
was at a loss to understand the reason for their fear. But
the Lascar interpreter now roused himself from a half-doze
and, sitting up, began to make enquiries ; then burst into
a loud laugh.
" What's wrong ? " demanded Jukes, impatiently.
" They are afraid of the Sahib's instrument," replied the
Lascar, pointing to the barometer.
" Afraid ? Nonsense ; tell them it won't bite ; " and, by
way of reassuring the tremblers, Jukes picked up the
cause of offence and held it out to their gaze. But this
was too much for them ; such a man must be in league
with the powers of evil ; no wonder they had been troubled
by wild beasts ; and, with a prolonged, united shriek, they
all fled, and reappeared no more.
Left to guide themselves, the little expedition patiently
plodded down the other side of the hill and, reaching the
bottom, found themselves in a more sparse teak-forest ;
and here there was less chance of losing their way ; for, in
addition to numerous cart-tracks and hoof-marks, they
found a broad and tolerably well-made road running
through the wood, which looked as though it ought to
lead towards civilization.
When the travellers had pursued this for a half-mile
they came upon a small native village or settlement, the
inhabitants of which turned out in great force to examine
the arrivals; and, when the interpreter explained that
these were English and not Dutch, Javanese hospitality
showed itself to be unbounded ; for not only was the best
that the village contained, in the way of food and lodging,
117

VILLAGE ORCHESTRA
rapturously placed at the service of the strangers, but the
local string and brass band was immediately ordered to
parade, and to play in their honour. The performance, it
must be admitted, was not particularly harmonious ; for it
consisted of the barbaric strains extracted by six sturdy
Malays from one gong, two brass basins, two very primi
tive musical-boxes, and a two-stringed fiddle made of
cocoa-nut shell and deer-skin. But the intention was, no
doubt, good.
The headman of the village was a loquacious body
who had a very great deal to say on the subject of the
Dutch — or the " Company " as he called them — and their
cold and harsh treatment of their Javanese employes ; and,
by way of changing the conversation, the Englishmen
bade the interpreter relate the episode of the leopard and
the tiger.
"Such a thing could not happen round here," ejacu
lated the headman proudly. " We trap them all. Before
you leave, to-morrow, you must see our traps."
That night was passed on couches of cane, in cool, well-
ventilated huts, which — a rare experience in the East-
were as clean as their tenants could wish ; and, but for the
nauseous stench from a fever-breeding swamp, which lay
almost at the foot of a volcano beyond the village, the
tired explorers could have asked no better housing.
When they started again on their journey, the head
man and many of the natives insisted on accompanying
them, both to guide them out of the way of the swamps
and to show them the tiger-traps, which were the boast
of that country-side. Every man was armed with a long
spear, the use of which remained to be seen. Diverging
118

t! mxi /: I ^B- j? A SA?l i;\ Jt, tj V

The Trapped Tiger
The trap was a kind of ' -aggerated ..ouse-trap. The door was on the top, and when
the tiger tumbled through, it was closed by a powerful spring.

THE TIGER-TRAP
slightly from the road, the headman led the way through
a maze of giant ferns, bamboos, and brushwood, where the
horsemen could only ride in Indian file ; and at length
stopped as they came to a fairly open space.
"He says, 'do you hear the tiger?'" remarked the
Lascar, in explanation of some words of the Malay.
If the Englishmen did not, the horses either heard or
scented the terrible beast ; for with one accord they began
to shy and to evince a strong disposition to bolt.
In the centre of the space was what looked like an
immense box ; and, leaving the horses in charge of some
of the natives, the explorers, accompanied by the rest,
went to look at this curious construction. It proved to be
a kind of exaggerated mouse-trap, strongly built with the
trunks of young trees, through the interstices of which an
old tigress could be seen lashing with her tail and creep
ing swiftly round and round, like a cat in a cage. The
door was at the top, and was so arranged as to fall inwards
when the weight of the tiger pressed on it, and then to
re-close by means of a powerful spring. A bait had been
placed on the door, and the hungry animal had no sooner
sprung at it than she had found herself securely shut in
the trap.
With shouts of triumph the natives surrounded the
cage and, thrusting their spears through the bars, soon
put an end to the hapless beast ; and the same process
was repeated over two leopards and a second tiger, which
were found in other traps further on.
" That is what we do with the tigers that venture into
our neighbourhood," said the headman, in great good
humour at having Buch a catch to show to the English-
119

PRICKLY HEAT
men, and devoutly hoping that they would beheve that
such luck attended every setting of the traps.
On their way back through the forest towards the coast,
Jukes and the captain were seized with a most painful
rash and eruption, which Blackwood pronounced to be
"prickly heat," the well-known skin affection to which
most Europeans are liable in hot countries. To habitually
active men, as these were, the disease was especially irk
some, for they scarcely dared to move a limb for fear of
causing perspiration, every drop of which would produce
fresh irritation and even agony.
When they were able to go on again the naturalist's
troubles were not at an end, for, as they emerged from the
last strip of forest land, he was taken with fever, caught
from sleeping too near the swamps ; and of this he was
not rid till he was once more safely aboard the Fly.

CHAPTER X
THE CHEETAH AND THE TIGRESS
The forest of Central India— Captain von Orlich, the Prussian army
expert— The trees of the Indian forest— The Eajah's hunting-lodge
— The cheetah — Awful prevalence of snakes — In ambush for the
antelope — The cheetah's failure — His success — A tiger-hunt —
The banyan tree— The elephants— The pursuit— The tigress
— And her death.
At the time of the first Afghan War, a broad stretch
of forest ran in an oblique line from the Chenab — a
tributary ofthe Indus — to some distance south of Bareilly
and Delhi, roughly parallel to the Himalayas on one side
and the outer edge of the Thar desert on the other.
In recent years, as is mentioned in Chapter XVIII, the
Indian forests have been restricted to special areas, and
this stretch is now intersected by roads, villages, and
cornfields. In 1842 Captain von Orlich, the Prussian military
expert, was sent by his Government to watch the progress
of the war in Afghanistan. But, owing to various delays,
the fighting was ended long before he arrived ; and, rather
than have made his journey to no purpose, he set off south
wards — partly to explore on his own account, and partly to
visit some of the important British military stations ; and
found that, to steer comfortably between the desert and

FOREST TREES
the hills, he must make his way down through the afore
said forest.
Travelling here was both easy and pleasant ; von Orlich
had no need of guides, for, right away to Delhi and beyond,
were the well-marked, if rough, tracks of the various regi
ments which had recently passed and repassed between
that city and Lahore. His native servants were trust
worthy ; and, for those parts of the forests that were then
infested by robber gangs, he could easily procure an escort
of British cavalry.
He found a great variety of trees ; here a wood of oak ;
there another of teak — the latter, however, of a poorer class
than that found in the recognized teak-forests of Burmah
or Travancore — then patches of deodar or mango or sandal
wood, to say nothing of bamboo and the many kinds of
palm. When he had wandered in the forest for nearly a fort
night, the captain came upon an elaborately constructed
hunting-lodge, just then inhabited by a rajah to whom he
had letters of introduction. This hospitable prince insisted
upon his making a stay of some days with him ; and, as
this would probably afford an opportunity of becoming
acquainted with native methods of hunting, von Orlich
gladly accepted the invitation.
The first day's sport was to consist of an antelope hunt ;
the captain had already seen several fine specimens of
these animals, but they had never allowed him to come
within gun-shot of them.
When, mounted and armed, he joined the rajah in the
little forecourt, the first thing he noticed was a small ox-
wagon, presumably for the conveyance of the game. But,

PREVALENCE OF SNAKES
during the interchange of morning compliments between
his host and himself, he heard a succession of savage
growls from the neighbourhood of some outbuildings, and
then a full-grown cheetah, or hunting-leopard, held in by a
metal collar and chain like a dog, was brought out by a
native groom ; and after fawning affectionately on his
royal master, leapt lightly on to the wagon and couched
submissively while his chain was made fast to a staple.
"That is our antelope hunter," said the rajah, as he
pointed to the handsome beast; and he turned to give
some directions to an attendant who swiftly covered the
leopard's eyes and head with a close-fitting cap, just as
a falcon would be hooded.
Then the hunting-party moved forward at so leisurely a
pace that the stranger was able to note and admire the
portions of the forest that were new to him, where grew
figs, acacias, and tamarinds in rich profusion, and where
monkeys, parrots, and snakes seemed to have taken com
plete possession of the larger trees. Some idea of the
awful prevalence of the last-mentioned pests sixty-five
years ago may be gained from a statement made not long
since by Mr. J. A. Baines, C.S.I., to the effect that even
in these days, twenty thousand human beings lose their
lives every year from snake-bites.
Further on, a panther would slink off at the approach
of the cavalcade ; or a flock of kites and vultures fly away,
shrieking, from their work of picking the bones of a dead
horse or ox.
Suddenly the driver of the ox- wagon, who was leading
the way, pulled up; the hunters did the same, and the
loud talking and jesting among the rajah's followers
123

HUNTING ANTELOPES
sank to a whisper. They had reached the spot where
antelopes were most likely to be sighted — a hilly and
more sparsely-wooded tract which could easily be seen
from the point where the party had stopped, though the
thick growths along its edge completely concealed them
from the sight of any person or animal that might be
wandering there.
The man in charge of the leopard noiselessly unfastened
the chain and grunted a command, at which the beast
stepped down from the wagon; he then dragged him
along to the very verge of the clearing, the rest of the
hunters remaining silent in their places. After a wait of
about a quarter of an hour, three antelopes came along at
an easy though not unwary trot, going in the direction of
the hills. Patiently waiting till the animals were within
a stone's throw of him, the leopard-keeper suddenly
whipped off the hood, showed his beast the game, and
slipped the chain from the ring in his collar. Then, like
lightning, the cheetah bounded forward — such a distance
that three leaps of that kind must bring him almost
within touch of his prey.
But lightly as he seemed to fall, and though he uttered
no sound, the antelopes either heard or smelt him ; the
biggest of the three gave a little snort as though to drive
the others in front of him, and all set off at inconceivable
speed over the more broken ground. The leopard per
ceived this, even before his feet touched the ground after
his second jump, and snarled viciously. By the time he
landed from his third bound, the antelopes had put a
distance of fifty yards between him and them ; and, to
von Orlich's astonishment and disappointment, the cheetah,
124

THE CHEETAH'S FAILURE
instead of making an attempt to pursue the game further,
stopped dead; then turned and came back to heel like
the most docile spaniel.
The rajah turned jubilantly to his visitor.
" Have you in Germany such an animal as that ? "
he asked.
"But," stammered the captain in his broken Hindi,
"he caught nothing."
That was true, the rajah admitted ; but where was the
European hound that would know instinctively, after a
couple of leaps, that his quarry was superior to him in
fleetness ? " The antelope is so much swifter," he said,
" that we have to get as close to him as possible to give
the cheetah a chance at all."
The keeper had meanwhile hooded the beast again ; but,
as he made no attempt to lead him back to his wagon,
the rajah explained that there was evidently a likelihood
of more sport. This was, in truth, the case ; for just then
a faintly audible hiss from the keeper promptly silenced
the low- voiced conversation that had begun ; and, peering
forward in his saddle, von Orlich could see a large male
antelope trotting towards them; and, behind him, more
slowly, quite a small herd.
The advance-guard seemed to be keeping a good look
out; now and then he half stopped, glanced all around
him, and then resumed his former pace. Crouching
behind a tree, the dark-skinned keeper held in the still
masked leopard and allowed the antelope to go by un
molested; which he did, without appearing in any way
conscious of the ambush, though he passed so close that
the Hindu could easily have maimed him with a stone.
125

THE CHEETAH'S SUCCESS
At length the herd came along, ambling unsuspiciously,
and, before von Orlich could get sight of what was
happening, a broad streak of yellow flashed out from
behind the leafy curtain that till now had concealed it ;
there was a mad stampede on the part of the antelopes ;
and then the huntsmen dashed forward with a chorus of
shouts. For the cheetah had, in three or four bounds,
come up with the nearest of the herd, and now, with a
long-drawn purr of satisfaction, had thrown his terrible
weight on the poor fugitive's back, where he clung like a
gigantic leech, the raw flesh of the victim gaping open
where the great claws fixed themselves. The antelope
staggered, fell on its knees, and, after a convulsive struggle
to rise, at last rolled on one side; for the leopard had
fixed his teeth in its jugular, and was now greedily
drinking its life-blood.
Von Orlich was a keen sportsman, but this sort of
hunting scarcely appealed to his Western notions. Glad
of an excuse to turn his gaze elsewhere, he looked round
on his entertainer and asked somewhat apologetically if
such methods did not rather tend to spoiling the game.
" By no means," was the reply. " Watch him now."
The leopard, either because he was satiated with blood,
or else because he was satisfied that his prey was dead,
withdrew himself from the carcass which he had but
little injured, walked peaceably back to the keeper, and
suffered himself to be rechained and led again to his
travelling carriage.
On the day before the captain's departure, the rajah
fulfilled his promise that he would give him some tiger-
shooting. The German had already tasted the delights
126

THE BANYAN TREE
and dangers of the sport while staying further north
among some English officers ; but this was to be his first
experience of the popular Hindu method of hunting the
animal on elephant-back.
From the lodge the company traversed the forest later
ally, crossing at right angles the path by which von
Orlich had come ; and by this means he was enabled to
enjoy various sights which he otherwise might have
missed. Among these, a tree, the like of which he had
not yet seen, though he was to meet with many in his
journey farther south — the far-famed banyan. One of
these was so large that it looked like an immense thatch
propped up by hundreds of stanchions or wooden columns.
From the branches of these trees spring shoots, tendrils
or aerial roots, which naturally gravitate towards the soil,
and, on reaching it, pierce a way through the surface and
become firmly embedded ; so that, after a while, a banyan
which started by possessing one trunk may have fifty or a
hundred — or, for that matter, a thousand. A specimen
has been found possessing three hundred and fifty stems,
each the size of a large oak trunk, and at least three
thousand smaller ones. Some weeks later von Orlich saw,
close to Delhi, the ruins of a large mosque which had been
completely encircled by, and interwoven with, the off
shoots of one of these remarkable trees. They belong to
the same genus as the fig, though their fruit — which is the
principal diet of the bats and monkeys that make a per
manent home among its branches — is a bright scarlet, and
no larger than a cherry. The bark is used medicinally,
and the sap, which is white and glutinous, is supposed to
be a cure for toothache. 127

A TIGER-HUNT
Beyond this tree the old forest seemed to have re-estab
lished itself on a smaller scale, rapidly becoming a thicket
or jungle of canes and reeds sixteen feet in height.
Through this the two elephants proceeded more slowly
and with greater caution ; and from the soothing cries of
the mahouts to their beasts, " Hush, my lord ; do not be
frightened, my dear," and other respectful or endearing
modes of address, von Orlich concluded that they were
already in the tiger's territory. There was now no longer
any pretence at a path ; but a serpentine line or parting,
marked by the mere bending back or snapping off of the
rushes, betokened the recent passage of some large figure ;
and, along this, one of the native huntsmen walked warily,
spear in hand, while the elephants, taking no more account
of the giant reeds than if they had been ears of corn,
plodded doggedly through them at the bidding of their
mahouts, thus making a way for the rajah's followers on
foot to pass.
In one howdah rode the rajah and half-a-dozen of his
favourite attendants; in the other, the German captain
with three of his own servants, and two of the rajah's
officers who were appointed to attend on him. From the
height at which he was thus seated von Orlich at length
noticed that the thread-like parting that they were follow
ing was growing ; he could even see the reeds some way
ahead fall back, foot by foot. He pointed this out to one
of the native officers.
" Ah, yes," was the reply ; " he has scented us and is
frightened." Just then a man in front broke into a run, at the same
time giving a shrill cry, at which both elephants increased
128

THE TIGER'S LAIR
their speed. The little lane through the jungle had ceased
to wind ; on the contrary it was now as straight as a line.
They were coming to the tiger's lair.
Brimful of excitement, the running huntsmen dashed
ahead of the elephants, and von Orlich could not help
remarking that the natives used infinitely less caution in
beating up a man-eater than in pursuing the timid
antelope. Suddenly those in front began to walk steadily back
wards again, their vigilant attitudes and method of holding
their spears showing that danger was at hand. And now
the elephants began to betray signs either of intense fear
or rage. Tails and trunks moved uneasily and a vibratory
tremor ran through each huge body. One of von
Orlich's companions touched his arm and silently pointed
ahead; a tigress was creeping — nay, stalking — tail erect
towards them, as though indignant at the trespass they
were committing.
The captain's instinct was to take aim; but, looking
towards the other howdah, he saw that the rajah had
sprung to his feet and was obviously anxious to try the
new large-bore rifle with which his guest had presented
him. There was a report and the tiger fell; and the
elephants, as though convinced that all danger was past,
resumed their former speed. But in another moment the
wounded beast— for she was only wounded, and that but
slightly— had sprung forward towards von Orlich's ele
phant, and now, already almost at his fore-feet, was trying
to leap on to his head. Gun in hand, the men in the
howdah waited for the chance of a shot, though the
German felt that there was no cause for alarm ; if he and
9 129

DEATH OF TIGRESS
his companions could not get an aim at the maddened
creature, there seemed no reason why the rajah's party
should not. Nevertheless it was soon made clear that the
other sportsmen must not be relied upon for aid just then ;
for at the critical moment the rajah's elephant had become
overmastered by a sudden insane fear ; and, notwithstand
ing his driver's compliments and appeals, had backed, and
was now deliberately turning tail; in such a manner,
moreover, that none of his riders could possibly take aim
at the enemy.
This kind of thing not infrequently happens ; even the
bravest and most tried elephant will sometimes utterly
lose nerve and become useless just when his help is most
wanted. Von Orlich's animal, on the other hand, pro
ceeded to give tolerably clear proof that he was not to be
intimidated. Trumpeting, stamping, backing, swaying, he
kept the tigress at bay with his trunk while the spearmen
watchfully closed in on her.
" Now you have a chance," said one of the officers to the
captain. Leaning over the edge of the howdah he fired ; but the
raging brute, though she bellowed with pain, showed no
signs of falling, and before von Orlich could cover her with
his second barrel, she had made another determined spring
as the elephant once more edged back.
But, while she was still in the air, a couple of spears
transfixed her, one from the left, one from the right ; and,
thus spitted, she fell, dragging the spearmen off their feet,
by her weight ; and, while she lay moaning and vomiting
blood, von Orlich's second bullet put her out of her
misery. 130

ELEPHANT'S JOY
Then came the most astounding feature of the whole
hunt. Von Orlich's elephant, at sight of the dead beast,
instantly subdued his rage, substituting all the manifesta
tions of joy and triumph ; while his more timorous
brother, who had now been pulled round again, evidently
forgot his terror, and did everything in his power to show
that he was ready for any pursuit or peril.
" He did but turn to say his prayers," said his mahout,
jealous for the reputation of his charge; and pointed
triumphantly to where the moon would be in a few hours'
time. Many of the Hindus still believe that the elephant
turns towards the moon on moonlight nights ; and argue
from that that he worships her.

131

CHAPTER XI
IN A CHINESE MOUNTAIN FOREST
Robert Fortune, botanist and traveller — His journey to the tea-
plantations— Method of travelling — Cheering information — The
mountain forests — Discovery of the Oryptomeria Japonica — The
storm ; death on every side — The bell in the forest — A real
haven of refuge — The Buddhist monks — The wild boar-
Fortune's narrow escape.
In the year 1842 the Royal Horticultural Society, desirous
of obtaining an expert scientific opinion as to the condition
of the tea-plantations of the Far East, invited Robert
Fortune to undertake a journey to China and Japan for
that purpose.
Mr. Fortune, whose name is chiefly remembered in con
nection with his valuable contributions to the gardens at
Kew — including the fan palm (Chamaerops Fortunei), the
double yellow rose and the Japanese anemone — though
still a young man, was an experienced and intrepid
traveller, an ardent sportsman and a man of wide scientific
knowledge ; and it would have been difficult to find any
one better fitted for such an undertaking.
After a short visit to Formosa, he landed at Hong Kong
and entered upon his seven-hundred mile ride northward
to Ning Po — a route so hilly and thickly-wooded that
horse-riding was soon out of the question, and the English-
132

MARVELLOUS FEATURES
man was glad enough to adopt the Chinese method of
travelling in those districts. This was by means of a
" mountain chair" — a very simple arrangement consisting
of two long bamboo poles with one board nailed between
for a seat, a second one fixed perpendicularly for a back
rest, and a third slung below as a support to the feet.
In such a vehicle Fortune pursued his journey through
the hill plantations and into the great South-Eastern
forest, where mangoes, guavas and oranges seemed as
plentiful as acorns in an English wood, and where, between
banyans and bamboos, cypresses and pines, the way was
at once beautiful and scarcely practicable.
At almost every step, the forest had some new and
marvellous feature to hold out to a stranger's admiration ;
when there were not tigers or rhinoceroses or wolves to be
guarded against, there were always the camphor, or paper
mulberry, or wax, or tallow trees to be examined or
admired. Here a "sighing" willow spread its branches
over a stream or pool ; there thousands of caterpillars
were spinning silk from the wild mulberry leaves ; and,
above all, in place of the gloom which usually per
vades the African and American forests, there was that
wonderful, all-penetrating light and sun-glow which seems
peculiar to the East, and which even the thickest wood
cannot shut out. Now and then came interesting breaks
in the monotony of the journey in the shape of villages,
cultivated valleys, tea-plantations; and, at one of these
latter, Fortune met a French priest who had news of a
not very cheering character to impart.
" Going to Ning Po ? " he ejaculated. " Then you have
a hundred and fifty miles of forest and mountain before
133

MOUNTAIN FORESTS
you ; and scarcely so much as a village on the way ; the
whole district infested by tigers and wild boars."
Undeterred by this unpromising picture, the traveller
engaged new bearers in the place of the others, who,
" upon information received," had flatly refused to accom
pany him any further, and set off towards Ning Po.
Fortune had often heard that there were such things
as mountain forests, though he had never seen one ; and
he now found himself being borne across an irregular
mountain-ridge, two thousand feet in height, "covered
with a dense tropical-looking mass of shrubs, trees and
brushwood." The valley below he found wooded just as
thickly, and, for the next hundred miles, the way seemed
one long upward and downward climb.
Within about forty miles of Ning Po the botanist came
upon what he describes as " the finest bamboos in China " ;
and, while he was still examining these, his attention was
further diverted to a delicate fir, the like of which he had
never seen, either in China or elsewhere. He proceeded
to gather some of its seeds, and the trees from them may
still be seen at Kew under the name of Cryptomeria
Japonica. When an enthusiastic naturalist is let loose in a strange
forest he is apt to wax neglectful of considerations of
time and weather; and it was not till the frightened
cries of his coolies aroused him that he was aware of
the rapid approach of dusk — and a thunderstorm.
The sky had become overcast with heavy purple clouds,
and as he hastily took his seat in the mountain chair
some big rain-drops fell ; and before he had been carried
fifty paces a fork of lightning shot across the sky. With
'34

A TERRIBLE STORM
the thunder-clap that almost instantaneously succeeded,
rain began to fall in a sudden, blinding sheet, and with
such force that none but the most thickly foliaged trees
could have offered even a temporary shelter. Under one
of these the coolies wished to stop, and would have done
so had not Fortune hinted at personal violence ; for, in
comparison with the rain, the lightning seemed to have
no terrors for them.
To facilitate their progress their "fare" dismounted,
and all walked — or climbed — in single file.
Scarcely daring to think what would be the result if
the storm should endure for any length of time, Fortune
tried all means to hearten his sullen companions and to
persuade them to keep steadily forward. Surely there
must be a cave or mountain-hut or some other temporary
refuge, if they only sought long enough.
But complete darkness came, and found them still
shelterless. It was impossible to make a fire, for, even
under the most leafy trees, the dead grass and sticks had
now become sodden; and the sight of one or two trees
already rent and shivered by the lightning did not
encourage any lingering under them in search of fuel.
Yet the temptation was greater than might seem : for
accompanying the storm was the most deathly, agonizing
chill, more searching than any frost could be, and all
the more noticeable after the excessive heat of the
day. In time, Fortune himself wavered, and at length stood
still; whether they went forward or whether they rested
under the trees, death seemed now equally certain.
Already the thunder had made ever.- one drowsy : arid ,
135

IN DESPERATE PLIGHT
now that intense cold and fatigue were added, their
natural inclination was to lie down on the soaking ground
and to sleep. The Englishman's sense of utter hopeless
ness and loneliness may be imagined ; he was forty miles
from a town or village ; his companions, whose language
he spoke and understood very imperfectly, remained
obstinately silent ; but, even if they had been inclined to
speak, it was difficult to make the voice heard above the
deafening roar of the wind and the almost unceasing
thunder roll. All at once the wind dropped and, if
possible, the rain fell more heavily than before; but,
as there seemed now less resistance to battle against,
Fortune once more persuaded his guides to continue the
ascent, and for another half-hour they plodded on But
at last the young traveller drew up. " It's no use," he
gasped, " I can go no farther," and was about to throw
himself on the ground, regardless of consequences, when
the continuous crash of the thunder sank to a threatening
rumble. This might either augur the end of the tempest,
or, as the wayfarers already knew by experience, prove
merely the prelude to a more terrific outburst than ever.
Yet, after the ceaseless tumult, there was something so
solemnly soothing in the comparative silence that the
wearied man was encouraged to brace himself for one
more fight for life. This might be the end of the storm,
after all, and the short Eastern night must end in a few
hours. He had got thus far in his final attempt at buoy
ing up himself and his followers, when through the lull
there suddenly floated a sound at which every one cried
out involuntarily — the deep, reverberating note of a
heavy bell or gong. And, before the Englishman could
136

A HAVEN OF REFUGE
decide whether or no he was dreaming, a second stroke
echoed ; and then a third.
" What is it ? " he cried, his voice quivering with excite
ment that bordered on terror; for, though scarcely a
superstitious man, the horrors of the storm had weakened
his nerve for the time being, leaving him well-nigh ready
to believe that the ringing proceeded from no earthly or
natural source.
" We must be near a monastery ! " shouted a coolie
jubilantly ; and another immediately remembered having
heard of the existence of such a place on one of the
mountains. Before the second man had finished speaking
the bell pealed again, and, in the glare of the next light
ning flash, the domes of a Buddhist religious house shone
white against the dark background of cedars and pines,
barely fifty yards higher up the slope. The exhausted
men did not wait for further deliberation ; stumbling and
slipping, they staggered through the deluge of rain, and,
more dead than alive, sought and obtained admission at
the hands of the hospitable priests.
Here Fortune was easily persuaded to make a somewhat
lengthy stay, for he was weakened by his struggle with
the storm, the monks were charming in their courtesy and
simplicity, and the immediate surroundings were too rich
in botanical rarities to be heedlessly passed over. Each
day the priests showed themselves more friendly towards
the stranger, and one seemed to vie with another in doing
the honours of their neighbourhood, and in the endeavour
to make the young scientist's stay a pleasant one.
Indeed, it was a sight at once amusing and pathetic to
see these kindly old men leaving their pious exercises to
U7

BUDDHIST HOSPITALITY
guide their guest through the woods, one carrying his
note-book for him; another his specimen-case: a third
holding an umbrella over him. A fourth, after no doubt
a strenuous mental conflict between fear and politeness,
offered to carry his gun ; but Fortune was too well-
seasoned a traveller to trust his sole means of defence in
the hands of a stranger, be he never so amiable : and
the good Buddhist seemed relieved when the Englishman
made some plausible excuse. Indoors he experienced just
the same consideration ; the monks waited on him hand
and foot, and a room was sot aside for bis exclusive use as
a study and workshop.
On the last evening of his stay, a deputation, headed by
the high priest, entered his room, and, with many and
graceful apologies, announced that they had come to beg
a favour. "What is there that I can do for you?" he asked,
wonderingly. " We implore you to lend us your gun."
No longer suspicious of his hosts, and fortified by the
conviction that not one of them knew butt from barrel,
he pointed to the corner where the weapon stood.
" By all means ! Pray take it.''
The deputation drew themselves up in a segment of a
circle round it, and stood dubious.
"If — perhaps you would condescend — to load it for
us," stammered the chief priest.
" Certainly ! " The young man slipped in a couple of
cartridges, and, holding the gun by the barrel, offered it to
the nearest priest, with the injunction : " Mind you don't
shoot yourself." 13S

THE WILD BOAR
The man to whom it was held out started back, threw
up his hands, and signified by every possible attitude and
gesture that he begged to be excused. Each monk to
whom the weapon was handed did the same ; while, from
a safe distance, the chief priest faltered : " H we but dared
ask you to fire it off yourself  "
"What's the trouble ?" asked Fortune, concealing his
amusement beneath a grave smile.
From the bewildering maze of compliments and
apologies that ensued, he was at length enabled to
extract the information that a wild boar had of late
frequented that part of the monastery garden that bor
dered on the forest: and that, regardless of traps or
monks, he was steadily trampling down, gnawing, and
otherwise destroying, all the young and tender bamboo
shoots. ' And this night he has been heard there," added the
old man mournfully.
Fortune naturally expressed himself ready to assist his
entertainers, and, gun in hand, followed the deputation
out ofthe main gate that opened direct on the forest,
intending to arrive on the far side of the garden and cut
off the enemy's retreat. Beyond the circle of hght thrown
by the entry lamp, the night was pitch-black, neither
stars nor moon being visible.
"This is cheering, in the extreme" thought the
Englishman. " If I escape being ripped up and trampled
upon by the boar, or sprung upon by a tiger, there is still
a very good chance of one of these excellent monks stick
ing himself in the way, and making a murderer of me."
To avert the last-named catastrophe he persuaded his
i39

A NARROW ESCAPE
guides to remain where they were, while he skirted the
house, took up a position on the edge of the bamboo
plantation, and waited for a shot at the boar.
Half-an-hour passed uneventfully, and Fortune was
almost disposed to reUnquish his post and return to the
monks, when a slight stir and rustle — not in the garden
but in the forest at his back — made him turn sharply and
bring the gun to his shoulder. The rustling ceased, but
only for a minute or two, when it began again, sounding a
good deal nearer. The hunter cocked his gun, and, as
though in response to the " click-click " of the hammers,
there suddenly arose the most blood-curdling, jarring
noise ever heard by mortal ears ; not, strangely enough,
from the quarter whence proceeded the rustle of the
leaves, but almost at his very elbow — a weird, metallic,
vibrating crash that literally shook the ground under
his feet.
He started forward in his surprise ; but, before he had
taken three strides, the ground began to give way under
his feet, as though he had trodden in a bog. Without
letting go his gun he clutched wildly on all sides to find
some support; for in a second he knew that it was no
bog upon which he had lighted, but a hole, treacherously
covered with sticks and turf; already his feet trod on
nothing. By good luck the fingers of his right hand
closed over something supple and slender ; it might have
been a string or a twig, or indeed, a straw ; whatever it
was, he clung desperately to it, all the while feeling with
his feet for a possible grip for them in the side ofthe hole.
He soon found one, for he had only been just over the
brink of the pit when he began to sink ; so that his feet
140

MISTAKEN FOR A BOAR
now encountered a wall of earth, so soft that he could
easily bore a standing-place with each boot-toe.
He was still in this unenviable plight, when he heard
footsteps above. If this were, as he had good reason to
suspect, a plot on the part of the priests, it would be well
for him to remain silent and allow them to think him at
the bottom of the abyss ; then, when the coast was again
clear, he could manage to scramble out somehow and
escape in the forest before a worse evil befel him.
. But, even while he was framing this resolution, the
footsteps ceased and a light flashed in his face. Then,
with a shriek of wonder, some one stooped, deposited the
light, and held out both hands to assist the captive,
murmuring plaintively : " Pardon ! A thousand pardons !
I mistook you for a boar."
Hauled up to firm ground once more, Fortune found
himself face to face with a young monk, who immediately
entered upon a voluble explanation. It was his duty, he
said, whenever the boar was heard near, to frighten the
creature away.
" By means of this, you see," he continued, throwing the
light of his lantern on a tree near at hand, and exposing
a ten-foot bamboo rod, the thickness of a man's arm, roped
by one end at right angles to the tree trunk. The other
end was left free, but had a cord attached to it long
enough to be jerked from a distance of fifteen or twenty
yards away. The monk, unaware of the task that had
been imposed on Fortune, had been lying in hiding for
some time, and hearing, as he thought, the movements of
the boar, had proceeded to work his " alarum " ; that is,
had drawn the cord tightly, thereby pulling the free end
141

THE 'ALARUM'
of the pole as far as possible from the point where it was
to strike ; then had let go suddenly. The pole was split
for about three-quarters of its length, and, on being
suddenly released, would strike and vibrate violently
against a tree eight feet from that to which its other end
was fastened, creating the ear-splitting din that had
startled the stranger.
" And all the time I thought you were the boar ! "
moaned the priest.
" Cheer up ; I paid you the same compliment," rejoined
Fortune; and added, shivering, "Then the pit explains
itself." Such holes he had seen dug as beast-traps in the
Sandwich Islands ; indeed his friend and fellow-scientist,
Douglas, had met his death by falling into one ; but this
was the first time he had heard of their being used in
China. " How deep is the pit ? " he asked.
" Pit ? It is a well fifty feet deep, containing about
eight feet of water."
" Thank you," said Fortune. " I'll trouble you to guide
me indoors with your light. You may tell the good priests
that I shall do no more boar-hunting to-night."

142

CHAPTER XII
A NIGHT IN A BALTIC FOREST
The Eussian forests — William Eae Wilson's tour — A mysterious
driver — Prussian spies ! — The fight at the post-house, and its
cause — A new driver — "Wolves, fiends and thieves!" — The
wolves — A race for life — Eussian hospitality — The thieves — The
quick-witted driver.
At the present day the forests of European Russia cover
four hundred and fifty million acres ; that is to say, about
twelve times the area of England and Wales. But, in
conceivably enormous as that is, seventy years ago it was
nearly fifty per cent, greater, so that British travellers at
that date may well be pardoned for assuming that, but
for an occasional town, tundra or steppe, Russia was one
vast forest.
It was at this conclusion that Mr. William Rae Wilson
— a Scotch traveller of some reputation in his day —
arrived when he had spent a short time in that country.
After a leisurely autumn journey through South and
Central Europe, he crossed the frontier between Prussia
and the Baltic Provinces and engaged a yemstchik, or
coachman, to drive him and his servant on the first stage
towards St. Petersburg.
The strangers had no sooner taken their seats than the
143

A MYSTERIOUS DRIVER
driver began to lash his horses without mercy, till they
reached a pace that threatened at every moment to upset
the vehicle.
" Why in such haste ? " inquired Mr. Wilson, who was
growing elderly and nervous. The yemstchik winked and
smiled knowingly, and belaboured his steeds afresh, till
trees and bushes and pools flashed past the carriage in
one confused, bewildering blur.
When they had driven at this speed for somewhere
about ten miles, the yemstchik, who hitherto had limited
his communications to the winks and smiles aforesaid,
now slackened rein and seemed about to grow con-
versible. " You're safe enough now," he remarked. " By taking
this forest-track instead of the main road, I've thrown
them off the scent. I hope your Excellency will bear
that in mind when we come to have a settling up."
"I don't think I quite understand you," said Mr.
Wilson, whose knowledge of the Slav tongue certainly
was rather meagre.
"They don't like these fir-forests," proceeded the
Russian as he allowed the horses still further to reduce
their speed. " Even if they knew you were here, I doubt
if they'd dare follow you."
The traveller looked round him helplessly.
" Why ? " he asked, more for the want of something to
say than because he saw the drift of the conversation.
" Too many wolves about."
" Wolves ? But we are speaking of wolves ! "
" That's true."
Mr. Wilson stared at the driver. " What do you
144

PRUSSIAN SPIES
mean? You say you doubt if 'they' would follow
us?" The driver grinned, and poked his fare in the ribs with
the butt end of his whip.
" You're a deep 'un," he observed.
Assuming that his yemstchik was drunk, the cautious
Scotchman lapsed into silence, and occupied himself with
the view of the wide-stretching fir forest, intersected here
and there by the serpentine windings of a lake, already
thinly coated with ice.
"Bless you, you needn't be afraid of me," said the
driver when he perceived that the traveller had no in
tention of replying to his last remark.
"I don't know that I am," said Mr. Wilson, looking
significantly towards his stalwart body-servant.
"If you'd been open with me, I wouldn't have asked
more than the ordinary fare. I'm no friend to the
Government," growled the driver.
" Why — what on earth do you take us for ? " gasped the
astonished Scotchman.
" Prussian spies, of course."
"Spies?""I spotted you the moment I set eyes on you," said the
yemstchik airily.
In his time Mr. Wilson had been an exceedingly astute
lawyer, and was scarcely the type of man to be easily
" bamboozled." " It was very considerate of you not to lay information
against us, then," he said, with some pretence at em
barrassment. "Oh — as to that — I said to myself, 'When his Ex-
10 145

SETTLING UP
cellency finds out with whom he has to deal, he'll be ready
enough to pay an extra hundred roubles for silence, and a
safe conveyance from the frontier.' "
" You're a knowing sort of fellow, I can see," said the
lawyer, and proceeded to compose himself for sleep.
When he awoke, the lights of the town were coming
into view.
"Your Excellency will settle with me now, perhaps,"
hinted the driver.
The Scotchman took out a pocket-book and handed him
the exact amount originally agreed upon.
" And my hundred roubles extra ? " demanded the
Russian. The lawyer tapped his pocket-book. " If you can con
vince the police that I am a spy, you shall have them.
I have here my passport and letters of introduction to
people of note in Riga and St. Petersburg, so you may
have some trouble in proving your charge."
" Then you are not a spy ? " stammered the driver.
" Take me before your police and have me examined."
This was pushing hardihood rather far, though the
lawyer did not know it at the time. In the remote town
to which they were coming, the officials could probably
scarcely read, and a foreigner, suspected of being a spy,
would be likely enough to find himself hurried along in
chains to Riga, if not to St. Petersburg, among a company
of Cossacks, in whose eyes letters of introduction would
have but small value. Fortunately the yemstchik was
himself no lover of the police ; and, whether he was simply
trying to extort black-mail, or whether — which was more
probable — he had really believed his passengers to be
146

THE FIGHT AT THE IXX
spies, he mumbled out some sort of apology, set down the
travellers, and hurried off again at foil speed.
After passing a restless night and eating an indigestible
breakfast at the miserable little posting-house, Mr. Wilson
went out into the street to engage a carriage for the next
stage. Outside, about, forty men were assembled, and, the
moment the stranger appeared, all of them made a rush
in his direction, shouting, kicking one another, struggling
and fighting. Alarmed at this manifestation of feeling,
he turned to re-enter the inn, but found that his retreat
was already cut off; and before he could shout to his
servant or the inn-keeper, he found himself in the very
midst of the howling mob. One man seized his left arm,
and another his right, and began pulling him in opposite
directions. Luckily, at this stage of the proceedings, the stout
North-country servant came out, with the luggage, and,
seeing his master thus beset, caught the two nearest
assadants by the collar and swung them both across the
road, and, with foot or fist, worked his way to the centre
of the crowd.
" What is it ? " gasped Mr. Wilson to his nearest
persecutor. " Your Excellency will ride with me. I have the finest
horses in the whole province.''
• No, no, with me," roared a second. " Don't go with
him; he's a drunkard, and will lose his way in the
forest." "Come and see my horses," bellowed a third. "The
fastest in all Russia, and no more frightened of wolves
than of sheep." And then the babel began again.
147

STRUGGLE FOR PATRONAGE
So this was all the trouble! Wilson had, not un
naturally, come to the conclusion that either a riot was in
progress, or else that he had fallen among a gang of
banditti who were about to convey him off, and put him
to ransom ; and was considerably relieved at finding the
uproar to be nothing more than a friendly contention as
to who should have the honour of driving him.
" I was not aware that the town possessed so many
yemstchiks," he remarked to the inn-keeper, who had at
last come to the assistance of his guest.
"There are but five," was the reply. "Travellers in
these parts have been scarce of late, and, when one does
come along, each driver is anxious to secure his patronage ;
and not only comes himself to tout, but also brings his
friends and relations to speak for him."
Thus reassured, Mr. Wilson good-humouredly waited
till the storm showed signs of subsiding, and then, having
succeeded in distinguishing between the yemstchiks proper
and their various sponsors, selected the most likely looking
of the former, and struck a bargain with him, not for
getting to give some hint as to his reasons for travelling,
lest he should again be taken for a spy.
The new driver was a far more intelligent fellow than
his predecessor, and soon proved himself an interesting
travelling companion.
"There are three enemies of mankind in the forest,"
he said, in answer to some observation of his passengers,
as they neared the thickest part of it. " Wolves in winter,
fiends in summer, and thieves all the year round."
This piece of intelligence was neither comforting nor,
in all respects, clear. 148

FOREST ENEMIES
" What do I mean by fiends ? You may be thankful
there are none about at this time of year, for they are far
more to be dreaded than the wolves. I mean a small
insect x that infests the trees, and drops suddenly down
upon you. Pretty well half the people who are bitten by
it never recover."
" Thank you. And the wolves and thieves ? "
" The wolves you will probably see for yourself." The
driver shivered and drew his furs more closely round him.
" It is blowing up for snow, and more frost," he continued,
" and we shall be lucky if we reach our destination without
a pack of them at our heels. You and your servant have
guns ? I should advise you to examine them and have
plenty of ammunition ready."
The first afternoon shades had already darkened the
forest, and, in fancy, if not in reality, Mr. Wilson could
hear the baying of wolves a mile or two away.
" And what about the thieves ? " he asked.
" I have often met them, though I have never been
robbed. They have their regular hiding-places in the forest,
and you may meet them sometimes at the inns, the owners
of which are often in league with them."
More quickly than the wayfarers could have wished, the
dusk crept on, and with it, as the yemstchik had prophesied,
a thick fall of snow ; and, as dusk deepened to dark, there
could no longer be any doubt as to the horrid barking
noise which was growing more audible at every turn of the
forest track.
" Fortunately my horses are good," murmured the driver,
whipping them to a sharper pace. For another quarter of
1 Furia infernalis.
149

ATTACKED BY WOLVES
an hour the journey was continued in grim silence ; then,
leaning forward to thrash the horses again, the driver
shouted, " Out with the guns, and fire. Over there !
Look ! "
Wilson looked in the direction indicated, but could see
nothing. Nevertheless as the wind suddenly changed, he
could hear to their left, not only the snarls and howls
of the wolves, but also the sharp, panting " yap-yap " that
can only be distinguished when a pack is close at hand.
" Fire, I tell you," urged the driver, once more plying
bis whip vigorously. Mr. Wilson obeyed and fired both
barrels into the moving mass that, even to his short
sighted eyes, now showed blue-black against the white
ground ; and, while he reloaded, his servant gave them two
more shots.
For a second the howling increased ; then died down
again to a series of jerky cries.
" Have we driven them away ? " asked Wilson.
" No. But you must have killed one or two, and they
are fighting for the carcasses. They'll be on us again.
There ! Look ! "
The pack had been coming up from the far left of the
forest and thus should have struck the road at right angles.
The shots had been fired in the nick of time, for they had
delayed the wolves just when they might have reached
the road soon enough to cut off the travellers in front.
As it was, the momentary delay bad thrown the pack
well to the rear, and they could now be seen wheeling
into the track some five and forty yards behind the
carnage. " Don't fire indiscriminately," said the driver between
150

A Race for Life
'Don't fire indiscriminately," said the driver between his teeth. "Above all, keep
the vermin away from the horses."

A RACE FOR LD7E
his clenched teeth. "Above all, keep the vermin away
from the horses."
The master translated this recommendation to the
servant, and the two blazed away valiantly, and often
effectually, at the pursuers.
For a time the excitement of the rapid movement and
the fight for life shut out all other sensations. But now,
little by httle, the deadly cold was gaining on the two
strangers ; their heads were swimming and dizzy, their aim
began to go wide, and, worst of all, the stock of cartridges
was running out. At this juncture the yemstchik came to
the rescue ; and two shots from his old double-barrelled
gun brought down a couple of the pack and gave another
chance of life to the fugitives.
Suddenly Wilson gave a shout of joy. " Lights ! Lights !
We are saved ! " And, in truth, a couple of windows,
belonging to some inn or cottage, were seen to throw out
shafts of light across the road less than a hundred yards
forward It may have been the Scotchman's shout of jubilation,
or the lights, or a final effectual shot from the servant's
gun — at any rate, for some reason, the cries of the wolves
began to sound farther off, and the dark billow that their
moving forms had made, to fall away and lose itself in the
blackness of night. Meanwhile the lights were growing
nearer, and now the yemstchik pulled up outside a wayside
um, not much bigger than a ploughman's cottage, and
shouted to the inmates to open,
When the shouts had been repeated half-a-dozen times,
a head appeared at one of the Ughted windows, and the
owner thereof cried churlishly :
151

RUSSIAN HOSPITALITY
" We are full."
" Never mind ; we can sleep round the stove," urged
the yemstchik.
"That's occupied too. You must go to the next
inn." " Can't we sleep in an out-house ? "
" There isn't one. Go away."
" Wolves are after us."
" I've heard that tale before. Are you going, or am I
to fire on you ? " and, sure enough, this hospitable soul
thrust the muzzle of a blunderbuss through the half-opened
window. With more philosophy than an Englishman would have
shown under the circumstances, the driver gave up his
task and drove on.
" The old fool takes us for robbers," he said, in response
to his employer's query. " Never mind ; there's a big inn
three miles away," and, cautioning the passengers to wrap
up carefully again, even to nose and finger-tips, he put the
horses at the gallop over a road which here was rendered
more visible, if more jolty, by uneven logs or sleepers laid
across it.
Mr. Wilson was almost falling asleep in spite of his
endeavours to keep awake, when the carriage stopped
again, and the driver, springing out, said, " I think we
shall find accommodation here," and pointed to an open
doorway through which the light streamed, about twenty
yards back from the road.
The driver had entered the hostelry before Wilson, less
wide awake and active, had risen to his feet. He stayed
to exchange a few words with his man and then proceeded
152

THE THIEVES
towards the inn door, which he had almost reached when
the yemstchik reappeared.
" All right," he shouted at the top of his voice. " You
needn't come. I've managed to get a whole bottle. If we
stop another minute we shall never overtake them. The
horses must wait a while longer for their meal."
Aghast and mystified, the traveller stood still. Certainly
the cold had affected the good driver's brain. But, the
next instant, the Russian had seized him by the arm, and
was saying in a fierce whisper, " Back to the carriage.
Quick ! Thieves ! " And, even while he spoke, four tall
figures came out to the door.
"In with you," shouted Wilson in English, to the
astonished servant, who was struggling with his master's
portmanteau. " Right, yemstchik"
The whip cracked like the report of a pistol, and the
horses started off again at a mad gallop, which they were
not allowed to relinquish for nearly a mile.
Then the driver produced the bottle of spirits which
he had procured from the inn. " Take a pull at this,"
he said; and, as soon as all three had partaken, he
volunteered an explanation of his recent behaviour.
" I was no sooner inside the door," he said, " than I
recognized half-a-dozen of the worst cut-throats in Russia
huddled round the stove. If we had ventured to sleep at
that inn we should never have come out of it alive. Those
fellows don't do their work by halves ; and dead men tell
no tales. I threw down the price of a bottle of vodka, and
snatched at the first that came handy ; then, muttering
something about having to overtake some one, rushed away
again. We have about another seven miles to go now,
i53

A QUICK-WITTED DRIVER
and shall then be at a good-sized village, where we are
sure of some sort of a night's lodging."
And, jaded and half dead with cold and fatigue, the
wearied men at length arrived at the village at midnight,
and had the good fortune to find an inn which was not
over-crowded with guests or infested by robbers.

'54

CHAPTER XIII
SIXTY TEABS AGO IX ABYSSINIA
Abyssinia, a land of mystery — Attempts to explore it — Mansfield
Parkyns — The Abyssinian native — Waylaid in the forest —
How to obtain a servant — Tie jackal — In a tree witb a python
— Losing the way — The appearance of the forest — Ostriches —
Hot springs — Going lion-hnnting — A community of monkeys
— Waiting for the lion — And not frilling him.
Next to Thibet and the Polar regions, Abyssinia has, in
the past, ranked first in interest to explorers by reason of
the mystery which till late years hung about it. Bruce
—one of the first travellers to venture there since Portu
guese Jesuit missions of the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries — cleared up much of that mystery, albeit his
testimony was very sceptically received at the time.
Major Sir Cornwallis Harris — and, later, Dr. Johnston —
traversed part of the country in the forties, and wrote
accounts which also were regarded with some incredulous-
ness. Barker's and Burton's secret marches to Harrar
shed a little more Hght on Abyssinian doings and geo
graphy ; but it was not till after the British invasion of
1867 that the traveller could wander in Galla Land and
the Abyssinian deserts or forests with much hope of ever
seeing his home again.
Yet, even before the war, there were travellers whom

THE ABYSSINIAN NATIVE
the world does not reckon among its great explorers, of a
sufficiently adventurous turn of mind to be willing to risk
the chance of murder or of death from wild beasts for the
sake of seeing what there was to be seen ; among them
none more venturesome or more observant than a young
Englishman, Mansfield Parkyns — barrister, boxer, artist,
linguist, and eventually comptroller of the bankruptcy
court. Like Winwood Reade he had filled his head with
travellers' tales, and, seizing the first opportunity of
verifying them, he went to Egypt, sailed down the Red
Sea, landing on what is now the Italian territory of
Eritrea, and crossed the desert into Abyssinia, where he
spent three years scouring the forests and mountains for
game, or sojourning unobtrusively in the towns.
In those days, except in the towns, the population was
essentially nomadic; there were six large tribes that
wandered hither and thither throughout the forests and
desert plateaux, perpetually at war with one another, and
ever ready to plunder and kill the stranger or the travel
ling merchant. That the Abyssinians should combine
extraordinary ferocity with their proverbial cowardice,
was a standing puzzle to the young Englishman. A
caravan in charge of twenty sturdy Moors or Arabs would
be attacked by a hundred of the tribesmen, who, yelling
and brandishing their long knives, would use them not
merely to wound or maim, but deliberately to kill ; yet,
at the first semblance of opposition in the shape of a few
musket-shots, the whole troop would turn about and flee
to their woodland fastnesses, there to lie in wait for victims
less ready to resist. 156

WAYLAID IN FOREST
On one of Parkyns' early solitary rambles in the
mimosa jungle, five men sprang out on him from a place
of concealment. He wounded one with a pistol-bullet
and knocked another down with his fist. This was quite
enough ; the rest fled, and the man who had been shot in
the upper arm followed them as well as he could. The
other whom Parkyns had floored got up again as the
Englishman stood hesitating whether to go forward or
back : but seemed too dazed or spiritless to flee. Instead,
he threw himself at the feet of the man whom he had
intended to murder, offering to become his slave if only
his life might be spared. Parkyns did not happen to be
in want of a slave just then, but a guide and body-servant,
who could give him the " finishing lessons " in the language
which he needed, would be welcome ; and, almost exhaust
ing his Ethiopian vocabulary in the attempt, he undertook
to hire him. In justice to his memory, it is only fair to
state that this pusillanimous being remained faithful and
attached to his heavy-fisted master during the whole
period of service.
So, like a second Crusoe and Friday, these two roamed
among the trees for the next few days, sleeping by night
in caves or under bushes, and by day dodging snakes and
wild boars, and killing partridges for the larder. Among
the animals whose sagacity greatly interested Parkyns
were the jackals, about whose habits civilized people were
at that time somewhat hazy, and often very much in
error. He learned that, like the Indian and West African
wolves, their manner of hunting in a pack was to draw
themselves into a huge semicircle and drive the luckless
gazelle or deer, or other animal, towards a precipice, or a
i57

THE JACKAL
slope where it could not obtain sure foothold, and over
which it would at length fall, or throw itself in despair.
Then the pack would rush down the nearest path leading
to the lower level, and demolish everything but the bare
skeleton. One evening the two men climbed into a tree near a
pool, there to await the possible passing of a lion. They
had not been on their perch ten minutes before the bushes
parted to give passage — not to the expected lion, but to a
jackal. Near the tree-foot he stopped his lurching, sneak
ing gait, stood still, and made a point at the body of a
dead monkey which Parkyns had noticed lying on the
turf. The jackal had, no doubt, already supped ; for, after
making up his mind that the monkey could not retaliate,
instead of beginning to demolish the carcass, he picked it
up in his teeth and moved with it across tbe ground —
which, just there, was like a grass-grown road — back to
the bushes ten or fifteen yards away. There he hid it as
a dog would his biscuit.
Breaking into a loud laugh, at which the jackal fled,
Parkyns turned to slightly alter his position on the un
comfortable branch ; and putting out his hand to seize
what, in the last rays of daylight, looked like the stem of
a perpendicular bough, had almost grasped it when it began
gently to oscillate. Just then, above his head, a rustling
noise came from among the leaves, and a piercing shriek
rang in his ear ; then an arm slid round his neck, and, ill-
balanced as he was, he fell, or was pulled, to the ground.
The distance was some twelve feet, but beyond a few
bruises he was not injured ; nor was his new servant, for
he had broken his fall by making a cushion of his master's
'S8

PYTHON IN TREE
body. In a moment Parkyns was on his feet again ; for,
brief as was the sight he had had of the object that had
so terrified his " man Friday," he knew it to be a serpent,
big enough to crush an ox.
The native, who had also righted himself, scampered
away to the far side of a clump of mimosas, from which
point of safety he exhorted his master to follow his
example. But Parkyns had picked up his gun again and
was stepping slowly backwards, taking aim at the horrible
thing that he had so nearly touched, and at the same
time guarding against the serpent's dropping on him from
above. The great head gradually lowered itself till it
stood out clearly against the red of the sky, and then
Parkyns fired, and cut short the reptile's mischievous
career. In the morning he and the native returned to
examine and measure the body. It was fifteen feet in
length, with a tail that tapered delicately ; the head and
tail were of a reddish gold, shaded off into a rich, dark
green along the back ; no doubt one of the numerous
python family. The native said that, in its rage, this
serpent was a terror even to an elephant ; moreover, he
volubly supplied details and illustrations of its predilection
for a human meal, till Parkyns (who understood quite
enough of the language to perceive that his companion had
a natural appetite for horrors) bade him hold his tongue.
The stock of hunting-trophies had now become so large,
and that of powder and shot so diminished, that the
traveller decided on a return to Gondar, where he might
deposit his treasures and renew his store of ammunition
before proceeding to the woods on the further shore of
Lake Dembea. But now there arose a difficulty which
•59

LOSING THE WAY
he had not taken the trouble to guard against ; he had not
the remotest idea as to where he was, for he had left his
compass with his other baggage in the town. And after
aimlessly leading his master in half-a-dozen different
directions, and finally arriving at the tree where the
serpent had been killed, the native was obliged to admit
that he also had doubts as to the direction in which the
capital lay.
Therefore the next two days were passed in trying to
find a way out of the forest, avoiding wild boars, on which
Parkyns dared not expend ammunition, and risking bites
from the poisonous, mud-coloured vipers that lay hidden
in the swamps. But, awkward as the situation was,
Parkyns was not blind to the natural beauty of his sur
roundings. Picturesque clumps of magnificent camel-
thorns of ancient growth studded the landscape here and
there, their golden flowers deadening with their perfume
the rankness of decaying vegetation or the stench of the
garbage that the jackals — Nature's most competent
scavengers — had not yet cleared away. Underfcot was
rich, yellow grass that swarmed with hares and bustards,
which could be killed without the expenditure of powder.
Up the slopes, where almost a separate forest of myrrh-
trees flourished, were zebras and wild asses, which fled at
the mere noise of the breaking of a branch, so accustomed
were they to be on the watch against the hyaenas and
leopards that prowled about towards evening. Lower
down again were wide-spreading cedars, every branch of
which seemed alive with guinea-fowl and partridges ;
while from time to time, as dark drew on, a deep roar
announced that a lion was going a-hunting.
160

OSTRICHES
On the second afternoon Parkyns was rousing himself
from his siesta when the swift movement of a weighty
body bounding through the long grass made him seize his
gun and stir his man out of his sleep. Such a noise could
scarcely be made but by a very large beast — a lion, in all
probabihty. He had no desire to be slaughtered, but he
did want to shoot a lion ; wanted badly, for hitherto he
had never come near enough to one. But disappointment
awaited him. The heavy body he had heard was the
quick, concerted movement of a flock of ostriches, which
ran straight past him, ignoring him entirely. For that,
he might well have been grateful ; for one ostrich, when
irritated, is a match for a man who does not understand
his methods of attack, and half-a-dozen would have been
less easy to deal with than the biggest lion that Africa
could produce.
And now the Abyssinian began to show glimmerings of
intelligence. He pointed out that the birds were going
towards a pool ; therefore they had come from a waterless
spot ; and, as there was drink enough and to spare
throughout the forest, it was a fair assumption, he said,
that they were near to the narrow strip of desert that
stretched round the forest in places. Parkyns admitted
that there was something in the argument, and, as the
heat had in the main subsided, they set off at a good pace
in the reverse direction to that taken by the ostriches.
The native was not deceived ; in less than half-an-hour
the trees had once more given place to mimosa jungle,
and, with a crow of triumph, he pointed to a group of
rocks some little way ahead, whence proceeded springs
of sparkling water.
ii 161

HOT SPRINGS
" But," said his master, halting perplexedly, " why did
the ostriches go so far away for their drink when there is
plenty there ? "
"They cannot drink that," was the reply. "It is
boiling. Now I can have a wash."
And with this remark the fellow leapt across the bushes
and high grass, and flinging off the few clothes he wore,
jumped joyfully into the pool below the springs, which, if
not absolutely boiling, was hotter than any Englishman
would choose for his bath.
When his follower had thus healthily celebrated his
success in finding their way, Parkyns was for moving on
towards Gondar; but his companion said that all the
approaches to the town were beset by footpads — the
refuse of both city and desert — who, though they had not
the courage to attack in the daytime, were more than
likely to bring a man down in the dark with a cut across
the legs, slit his throat, and seize his belongings ; and so
the night was once more passed in the forest.
The ensuing spell of life in an insanitary town, where
he might at any moment be arrested as a spy, made
Parkyns long for the forest again, and he was soon wending
his way towards the far side of the lake with the avowed
intention of returning laden with lion-skins. This time
he took with him, in addition to his " slave," six of the
latter's friends, who, for a small fee, were willing to act as
baggage-bearers and lion-hunters.
Away from the hills the forest proclaimed itself to be
essentially tropical ; it was crowded with palms and
plantains ; from the higher trees hung curtains of parasite
growths, rivalling those of South and Central America,
162

A 'TOWN' OF MONKEYS
conspicuous among which was the wschynanthus, a beauti
ful climber with glossy green leaves and bright scarlet
blossoms. Also, wherever the trees thinned, flowering
shrubs, noticeably jessamine, were to be seen.
Having reached the more remote district, Parkyns
pitched his tent near a stream, and established what was
to be, for some little time, his home. Here, when he
had nothing more important to do, he could watch the
proceedings of what his servant called " a town of
monkeys " ; and, in course of time, proved the truth of
many of the natives' statements about this community
which he at first put down as figments. He observed that
the monkeys had their recognized chiefs, whom they
obeyed more or less readily ; and, further, that they were
in the habit of warring with other communities, carrying
on regular pitched battles with no little method and
judgment. One morning he awoke to find the " town " deserted ;
the whole colony had disappeared.
" They will come back in a few days," said one of the
natives. "They have only gone on a more distant
pillaging expedition."
Parkyns watched sedulously for a return of his friends,
and, after three days, was rewarded by another sight of
them. He could hear their chatter half-a-mile away, and,
anxious to see a procession such as had already been
described to him, he ran out to meet them, and hid in a
tree as soon as they came in sight,
First marched the heads of the tribe, dignified and
sedate, yet wary enough to keep a careful eye round for
any roving leopard or other enemy. Behind them came
r63

A MONKEY FIGHT
the warriors, full-grown males, young enough still to see
the humour of things, and not above giving a sly pinch or
poke to the stolid beings that walked ahead, whenever it
could be done without the perpetrator's being observed.
Then the females — many of them carrying their young in
their arms, and calling to other little ones, that were old
enough to walk alone, not to lag behind.
Most of the animals carried proofs of their having been
engaged on a foraging or pillaging trip ; dates, figs, nuts,
bunches of plantains. As the procession passed under
Parkyns' tree, two of the warriors came to high words, and,
a little further on, stopped, left the hne and prepared to
fight it out. The fight lasted for ten minutes or more, the
others stopping in their march to watch the proceedings.
One juvenile monkey who got in the way and obstructed
the view of his seniors, was promptly seized by the tail by
his indignant mother and spanked.
At length the chiefs, considering that matters had gone
far enough, hustled the combatants back into line again,
and the procession moved on.
Lion-shooting was not so abundant as the hunter had
been led to believe : certainly the Hons were there, as he
knew to his cost, for often he was no sooner asleep at night
than his terrified companions set up a howl and waked him
with the news that " hundreds " were round the watch-
fire. Yet, though twice he turned out and convinced
himself that one of the animals was somewhere in the
neighbourhood, he could not get a shot at the marauder.
But one evening he took three of the men as far as the
lake-shore and lay in wait. Presently a lioness crawled
through the bushes, drank, and turned to go away again.
164

The Return from the Raid
One morning the monkey "town" was deserted, hut the natives said the inhabitants
would soon return. And so they did. First marched the heads of the tribe on the
look-out for leopards or other enemies— dignified, sedate, and wary. The rank and
file followed laden with booty in the shape of plantains, nuts, and dates.

WAITING FOR LION
Watching his opportunity, Parkyns took careful aim and
pulled the trigger. There was a loud click — loud enough
to startle the lioness — but that was all ; the weapon had
missed fire ; and before his spare gun could be levelled,
the lioness was lost in the bushes.
In desperation the sportsman vowed he would stay
there all night rather than be thus defrauded of his chance.
Soon it was quite dark ; two of the servants had fallen
asleep and the other had to be reprimanded from time to
time on account of his tendency to scream every time a leaf
or a bush was stirred by the wind. After a while it was
only by a great effort that the hunter himself could keep
awake ; and it was more by accident than otherwise that
he happened to see two bright eyes steadily coming
nearer. He rose softly to his feet, and, in so doing,
startled the third native, who immediately yelled as if he
were being murdered ; the result, of course, being that the
eyes instantly disappeared.
Once more Parkyns doggedly set himself to watch, this
time moving a considerable distance away from the three
natives, who were all sound asleep again. In the bushes
a long way off sounded an occasional roar ; sometimes it
would seem to be coming nearer, causing the young
man's heart to beat with excitement ; only to become
more distant again or to cease altogether. Another hour
passed and Parkyns was almost expecting to see the dawn
appear. Then, all of a sudden, he felt himself seized by the arm
with a grip that made him cry out in terror — and woke to
find it broad daylight and his servant standing over him
trying to rouse him. 165

CHAPTER XIV
AMONG THE BUSH-RANGERS
Australian forests — Lieutenant Henderson's journey up country —
Dangers of the forest — Among the timber-cutters — A solitary
ride — The empty hut — A forest of stone — A "burning moun
tain " — The shepherd's greeting — Another lonely ride — The real
bush-rangers — The pursuit — Horse-slaughtering.
The tragical history of Australian exploration has con
veyed to the minds of many of us an impression that
the new continent was, half-a-century ago, altogether a
land of waterless, stony wilderness, wherein nothing but
the semi-lifeless scrub and naked trees of the isolated
woods could flourish. And, geographically, there is good
foundation for such a behef ; for, girt about with hills and
mountains as it is, the interior basin lies too low to be
favourable to the existence of large rivers ; and, as soon as
the mountain-streams descend to the level, they become
spread out into lakes and pools which, during the hot
season, evaporate all too soon.
But New South Wales, comparatively well watered by
every one of the main feeders of the river Murray, and
having little part in the great central depression, was
anything but a desert ; for its table-lands, its valleys, and
its plains were (and still are, for the most part) covered
with forests of cedar, oak and giant eucalyptus, relieved
166

JOURNEY UP COUNTRY
in places by the Norfolk Island pine, or araucaria, and
by banksias rising sometimes to a height of fifty feet.
When, in 1850, Mr. John Henderson, a lieutenant in
the Ceylon Rifles, went out to Sydney, many of the
better-watered districts of New South Wales had been
seized upon by enterprising stock-breeders ; so that a
traveller could not ride through the up-country forests for
more than a few days without suddenly coming upon an
open space from which the timber had been cleared, and
which was devoted to the rearing of sheep and cattle ; and
it was to visit such a clearing as this, where stood the
stock-farm of an old friend of his, that Lieutenant
Henderson set out from the capital. Following the
advice of more experienced persons, he attached himself
to a little company of men who were riding inland, half
way to his destination ; for in those days the unprotected
traveller in Australia ran more risk of robbery at the
hands of organized gangs of ex-convicts than ever an
eighteenth-century wanderer on Exmoor or Hounslow
Heath did from the traditional highwayman.
But all the ex-convicts had not turned " bush-rangers,"
and all were not rogues. On the evening of the day on
which Henderson and his companions entered the actual
forest they came to a timber-camp — a space which was
every day growing wider, in consequence of the felling of
trees, the wood of which was periodically sent down to the
coast by tumbril. The occupants of the camp, all of them
" late of " Botany Bay or Norfolk Island, were agreeable
fellows enough, made the strangers heartily welcome, and,
in return for the town news which they brought, offered
them a share of their fire, meat and drink, as well as a
167

A TIMBER CAMP
night's lodging in one or other of the wooden huts which,
for eleven months out of the year, were their only homes.
The twelfth month, Henderson learnt, was occupied in
spending their wages in Sydney. In the morning the
visitors had an opportunity of seeing something of the
daily life of these men. From sunrise to sundown they
worked unremittingly, hewing eucalyptus trees for boat
building, red and white cedars, black-but and blood-wood.
The hewn timber was stripped and barked, and dragged
by chains to the saw-pits close at hand, where it was cut
into slabs for deportation.
The improvident habits of these fellows were beyond
belief. At that time enormous sums were being earned,
even by the most inferior day-labourer ; for the importa
tion of coolies and negroes had scarcely begun, and the
Australian natives refused to undertake any harder work
than cattle-minding, sheep-stealing, or an occasional
murder. Moreover, the gold-rush was yet to begin, so
that there was little to attract emigrants, save such as
had capital ; and white labour was thus, for a time, at a
premium. Many of the timber-cutters were earning at
the rate of three and four hundred pounds a year; and,
beyond the cost of flour, ammunition and spirits, they
had no expenses to meet ; and when the annual payment
came, ninety-nine per cent, of them migrated to Sydney,
where they stayed till every farthing was gone, and then
cheerfully returned to their forest slavery.
Beyond the clearing there began a closer wood of
gum-trees and cabbage-trees (the latter of the palm
tribe), and the only attempt at a road was the winding
irregular cutting made by the wheel-tracks of the wool-
168

A SOLITARY RIDE
wagons, going to and from the distant sheep-farms ; and
this was so narrow that, on meeting one of those vehicles,
the horsemen were forced to dismount and pull their
beasts through a network of scrub in order to allow it
to pass.
At the next clearing Henderson parted company with
the rest, whose way now lay further westward, and
continued his way in solitude — such solitude as he had
never before experienced; for, although he was well
acquainted with the Ceylon forests, they had nothing to
offer that would compare with this; there it was not
possible to travel seventy-two hours at a time without
seeing or hearing a human being, and without meeting
with any animal larger than a wild dog or a flying-fox.
The only break in the monotonous silence was the scream
ing of the parrots and " gangangs," a kind of cockatoo.
On the third evening after parting from his fellow-
travellers, he came to a wooden hut, half hidden among
banksias and giant HHes ; here, at any rate, would be
some sort of company; and he dismounted and pushed
open the door. But, inside, there was no trace whatever
of recent habitation ; everything was rotten with decay ;
even the cowhide hinges of the door cracked and spHt as
it was pushed open ; and there was no promise of supper
of any sort. This was the more serious in that he had
exhausted the small stock of flour and dried meat which
he had brought with him. But, looking out of the little
hole which did duty for a window, he saw a meal awaiting
him in the shape of a couple of bandicoots — small mar
supials about eighteen inches in length. These he shot
and roasted, and found them exceedingly good eating.
169

A FOREST OF STONE
After passing the night on the floor of this hospitable
abode, he rode on again, miserably uncertain as to his
direction, for he had left the wheel-tracks when he
separated from his late companions; and, though they
had apparently directed him on the right road, there was
nothing special to guide him. The depression which
uncertainty and long-continued loneliness engender began
to weigh on his spirits, and his thoughts turned gloomily
towards the stories he had heard of the evil deeds of the
bush-rangers, who, as far as he could see at present, were
the only persons he was likely to meet in this out-of-the-
world spot until he came across fresh tracks.
At mid-day a change came to direct his interests into a
healthier channel. He came suddenly upon another open
space in which were what seemed at first sight almost
like the ruins of some immense stone-colonnaded building,
but that to left and right of him there seemed to be no
limit to the distance which they covered. Wherever he
looked were stumps of stone, embedded in the earth, from
a few inches to a foot in height ; cylindrical, and averaging
fifteen inches in diameter; looking like a succession of
broken pillars. Examining them more closely, Henderson
perceived that they were the petrified remains of tree-
trunks, now nothing but yellowish, solid rock ; yet still
displaying the concentric circles on their upper face.
When he came to remount, the traveller suddenly
recollected that he had wandered hither and thither about
this little forest of stone till he could not possibly tell in
which direction he ought now to go ; and he was doubting
whether he had not better try and find again the spot
where he had emerged into the open, when, above the
170

A BURNING MOUNTAIN'
tree-tops, half-a-mile or so ahead of him, he caught sight
of what was undeniably a cloud of smoke ; and, taking
that as his land-mark, he unhesitatingly plunged into the
thicket beyond, and steered for it.
He had not far to go ; in a very few minutes the wood
on his left began to open out once more into a similar
natural clearing to that which he had already passed, and,
in doing so, to expose an immense mass of rising ground,
so bare and black and lifeless that it might have been
a colossal dust-heap; it gave Henderson the impression
that here was a mine or quarry, and that the gradually
ascending, dark outline was an artificial hill made up of
waste deposits. He wheeled to the left, and was soon clear
of the trees and facing — not a house or a mine, but almost
a mountain range ; a short line of peaks, above which rose
the smoke that he had beheld from a distance, though its
origin was still a mystery to him.
But riding round to the far side of the range, he found
a long crack in the hill-side, nearly three feet wide, from
which either smoke or vapour was rising in a thin, regular
cloud. All round the edges of the crack were beautiful
sulphur crystals, and, on looking down into its depths,
Henderson found that a natural furnace glowed red below,
emitting a heat that at any time would have been insup
portable, and just now was stifling. Later he learned that
this curiosity was not, as he then thought, volcanic in
nature or origin, but probably arose from the presence of
a seam of coal or bituminous matter.
From the contemplation of the mystery he turned
abruptly away, for he had heard, some distance off, a
sound that promised compensation for his disappointment
171

THE SHEPHERD'S GREETING
in finding a " burning mountain " where he had expected
a wood fire; the tinkle-tinkle of a tiny bell such as is
fastened on the neck of some of the wethers in a sheep-
fold. He sprang excitedly into his saddle, galloped across
the rough ground into the now park-like wood, and at
length saw common smoke that issued from a common
fire ; and, near this, a hut, in the entry of which sat an
old man half dozing, whose occupation was certainly that
of a shepherd, if a couple of hundred sheep browsing near
a stream were any criterion.
At the noise of the horse's hoofs the shepherd's dog
broke into savage barks, which roused the old man and
startled the horse from a light canter into a gallop again.
The old man picked up a gun, and, bringing it to his
shoulder, shouted to the new-comer —
"You stop where you are. Don't you come another
inch further ; " wise counsel indeed to a man whose horse
has for a moment become unmanageable !
"Then look out for yourself," cried the shepherd, as he
drew trigger. Fortunately the weapon was only loaded
with small shot, which spread at once, and in any case
could have done little harm at that range ; and before he
could re-load Henderson had the horse in hand again,
and was within easy conversational distance of the
shooter. " What possessed you to do that, you old idiot ? " he
demanded wrathfully as he walked his horse towards the
hut. Something in his speech or dress seemed to convince
the old man that he had made a mistake.
" Ain't you one of the gang then ? " he asked, rubbing
172

THE NIGHT GUARD
his eyes. " On my soul I thought you was a bush-ranger.
There've been a good many round here lately ; only the
other day they 'lifted' a young mare from Captain
Brown's." Henderson cut short the flood of apologies that was
following, with a joyful exclamation. Captain Brown was
the man whom he had come to see. The old man was in
the employ of his friend, and soon proceeded to atone for
his incivility by cooking some meat and " damper " (flour
and water pan-cake) for the hungry man. He also offered
him a night's lodging, as the farm was some ten miles
farther, and it was now well on towards dark ; but this
Henderson refused, having made sure that, by riding in a
straight line, he could not miss the farmstead.
Going a comfortable pace, he rode the first five miles
without meeting any one; but presently he saw half-a-
dozen men riding towards him, whose gun-barrels glittered
in the moonlight. Rather than make a fool of himself
as the old shepherd had done, Henderson contented himself
with drawing his revolver and holding it so that it might
not be noticed. The six men slackened their pace as
they approached, and one called out gruffly demanding
to know his business there.
Henderson explained civilly, and was relieved to hear —
"All right, mate; keep straight on. We're Brown's
men." Instead of being robbers the band were the little guard
that was sent every night from the farm to protect the
sheep at the more distant pastures against thieves, biped
or quadruped ; and, after a friendly exchange of greetings,
they continued their way. 173

REAL BUSH-RANGERS
A little farther on the horse became fidgety and
inclined to limp, and Henderson, rightly concluding that
he had a stone in his hoof, dismounted to search for it ;
and by the time he had found and dislodged it he had
wasted a good twenty minutes.
He had gone another mile or so when he heard the
click of a bit, as though a horse were standing near at
hand ; yet there was nothing in sight ; but, as he spurred
his own animal to a gallop, three mounted men rode out
from among the trees on his right front.
" It's no use, captain ; we know you. Come on ; bail
up," shouted one, at the same time trying to draw his
horse across Henderson's path.
Without making any attempt to check his gallop, the
lieutenant swerved very slightly to the left, and — the
interloper's horse shying at that moment — was past before
the man could raise a hand. But, the moment after, a
bullet whizzed near his shoulder, and then two others
through the branches overhead ; then came the clatter of
three sets of hoofs trying to overtake him.
He cast a hurried glance over his shoulder. His
nearest pursuer was well mounted, and possibly gaining
on him; but the horses of the other two were very
evidently jaded, if he might trust his ears ; for, against
the background of trees it was impossible to see any
thing clearly. Two more bullets shot past him in quick
succession; and, thinking it high time to protest, he
turned in his saddle and fired off two chambers of his
revolver. But a laugh from behind, and the undimin
ished pace of his persecutor, told him that he had hit
neither man nor horse. '74

THE PURSUIT
The sounds from the two more remote followers were
growing fainter ; he had but one man to deal with now,
and, what was more, he could hear the barking of dogs
ahead of him, could see a couple of lights flickering.
He was nearing the farm.
Once more the pistol behind cracked, and a pain in his
cheek, as though a knife-blade had been swiftly drawn
across it, told him that a bullet had grazed it. Losing
all patience, he half drew rein, turned, and fired again ;
and a violent neigh, and a diminution of his pursuer's
speed, told him that he had hit the horse.
" Good-bye ! " he shouted laughingly over his shoulder.
The horse behind was pulled up as though his rider
were dismounting.
" Good-bye ! " came very faintly from the distance ;
then a crashing report, very different from any that had
preceded it — the report of a rifle — and Henderson's horse
seemed to draw his legs together under him and fell in a
heap, his thigh-bone smashed to shivers.
The young officer by good fortune extricated himself
with only a slight strain of the leg, and was on his feet
again in a moment and unslinging his own rifle, which
was loaded with ball.
But his assailant had no fancy for a further engage
ment just then. He had apparently turned his wounded
horse loose, for Henderson could hear the poor creature
hobbling off in the opposite direction, while the man's
voice came from among the trees, and not from near the
horse, as he shouted —
" All right, captain ; another time '11 do just as well ; "
and the lieutenant heard no more of him.
i75

IN SAFETY
By this time men had come from the farm, hearing the
shots, and in another few minutes the two old friends
were shaking hands.
The horse was beyond hope of recovery, and, leaving
Brown's men to put him out of his misery, Henderson
mounted one of their horses and rode back with the captain,
for whom he had been mistaken by the bush-rangers.
In those days the proprietors of out-of-the-way stations
had often to take the law into their own hands; and
Brown had rendered himself unpopular among this choice
gang by apprehending two of its members and sending
them to Sydney under an escort of his own men.
Not long after the entire gang was arrested by a strong
party of farm-hands and disposed of as seemed best to the
court at Sydney.

176

CHAPTER XV
TWO YEABS IN A FOREST 'EANCHO'
British attempts at opening up the Central American mining
industry— Captain Brant's researches — The Costa Bica forest —
An earthquake shock — "A volcano upside down" — Caught in
the bog — A new method of deer-stalking— A hypocritical ox —
"The Vmg of the vultures* — A puma killed — Javalinos and
savalinos— Besieged — Fight between two snakes.
The success which at first attended the opening up ofthe
Nicaragua gold-fields, in the middle of the nineteenth
century, induced British capitalists to test the mineral
resources of those Central American States that border on
the Pacific Ocean. Companies in London sent mining
engineers to report on the various districts in which rare
metals were likely to be found, and not a few enterprising
persons took upon themselves to go prospecting on their
own account.
Among the latter was Captain George Byam, of the
43rd light Infantry, who had also made some consider
able reputation as a South American explorer and a
mighty hunter.
There is one very marked difference between the
Atlantic and Pacific snores of Central America. Both
are thickly clad with forests ; bat, whereas tbe forests off
the Atlantic coast are liable at all times of the year to
« t77

AN EARTHQUAKE SHOCK
several weeks of heavy rain and consequent flooding, those
of the Pacific coast have their regular summer rainy
season, and are, though less extensive, drier, more healthy,
and more productive of plants of rapid growth.
Into this Western forest of ebony and lignum vitse, rose
wood, and cedar, far removed from the coffee plantations
and rice-fields and civilization of Costa Rica, Captain
Byam penetrated, after landing at Realejo, and here he
built himself a wooden hut or " rancho," thatched with
sacate grass, which, for two years, he made his home.
His first week in that spot threatened to be his last, for
an earthquake came to trouble the forest, and, for several
hours, it seemed likely that at any moment the ground
would open and swallow his half-built hut, his two Indian
servants, and himself. Nevertheless, it passed over harm
lessly, and, during the rest of his stay, he was disturbed
by no more shocks.
Having constructed his rancho, he began systematically
to explore his part of the forest. Returning home after
dark one evening, he observed, at a point some way out
of his path, where the trees suddenly thinned out, a
weird, bluish light. He reined up and sat watching and
speculating till he heard a frightened cry from the Indian
servant, who was riding some Httle way behind.
" Go on, Senor ; pray go on," he screamed in Spanish.
" What is it ? " asked the Captain, in the same tongue.
But the Indian's teeth were chattering with terror.
Without answering, he seized his master's bridle and
began to lead the horse forward, out of sight of the
mysterious flame, to which proceeding Byam good-
humouredly offered no opposition, thinking the flame
178

A MYSTERIOUS FLAME
probably arose from marsh-gas, and having no wish to
find himself in the midst of a morass.
But in the morning he rallied the Indian on the
subject of his fright.
" Ah, Senor ! " said the fellow ruefully, " it is no laugh
ing matter. That flame comes from no natural source."
"Spooks? Spirits?" enquired the Captain jestingly.
" It may be so, Senor. But, however that may be, no
one will ever find any of us going near it after nightfall.
By day  " He shrugged his shoulders with an air of
indifference. " Well ; let's go and see it now," said the explorer.
As they rode along, the Indian vouchsafed the informa
tion that, near the light, was a " volcano upside down."
What did that mean ? Byam asked. The Indian could
not tell. He himself had never been closer to the spot
than on the previous night, though he had no objection
to going there now in broad daylight.
They came at last to a natural clearing, about twenty
acres in extent, in the middle of which was a hollow, the
surface of which looked like dry mud. No flame was
visible now, but, in the centre of the hollow, the ground
looked split and broken, and, from one of the clefts, issued
a jet of dense vapour.
Leaving the Indian at the brow of the slope, the
captain began to ride slowly down towards the centre ;
but, at the second stride, his horse's feet were over the
pastern-joints in clinging bog, and, at the fourth step, the
animal not only could not lift a foot, but was beginning
to sink rapidly.
Keeping cool, and trying to put from him all thought
179

CAUGHT IN THE BOG
of the horrible fate that threatened at least the horse, if
not himself, Byam strove with might and main to get the
startled creature to back. But his efforts were fruitless,
for the horse was mad with fright, and held to the spot as
much by the fascination of terror as by the bog around its
legs. Tugging with all his force at the bridle, and using
spur and switch liberally, the rider now tried all means
to swing the refractory beast on to his haunches, and in
this he was at last successful. A further manful attempt
resulted in his pulling the horse half-round ; and, at the
same moment, the loop of a lasso, deftly thrown by the
Indian, who had been watching his opportunity, feU over
the horse's head.
A little doubtful as to what the result of this measure
might be, and half-prepared to find himself and his horse
lying sideways in the morass, Byam awaited developments.
But the Indian was no bungler. Playing his " catch "
gently, he gradually loosened the captive from the cling
ing mire ; then suddenly urging his own horse forward,
dragged horse and rider out of the bog and up the slope.
It was a wonderful escape, and Byam kept away from the
spot in future, and indulged no further curiosity as to the
construction of the "inverted volcano."
From time to time he made acquaintance with other
Indians — friends of his servants, or others who had
wandered to that part of the forest in search of wild
horses or cattle.
A few of these nomads one day volunteered to take him
deer-stalking, and he very gladly accepted the invitation.
Joining the natives who awaited him outside the
rancho, he found in the middle of them a placid, inoffen-
180

DEER-STALKING
sive-looking ox, with a stout cord fastened rein-wise to
each horn, and held by one of the party.
" Is that to carry the game home ? " he asked, as they
began the journey.
The Indians laughed.
"No, Senor. To help catch it," they replied.
When they had gone some distance in strict silence,
the foremost Indian stopped, and, raising his hand,
warned the others to do likewise.
Craning his head forward, the Englishman could just
catch a glimpse through the trees of a smaU herd of deer,
browsing almost within gun-shot.
For no apparent reason the leader turned his course
sharply to the right, and began walking on again, signal
ling to the others to follow ; which they did, no one break
ing the silence by so much as a whisper. After they had
gone thus for about fifty yards, the leader again stopped,
and uttered an abrupt, but low cry. Instantly the deer
raised their heads, and fled away almost out of sight ; and
again the Indian beckoned the others onward ; this time
towards the place where the deer had been first seen.
These wanderers knew the forest as a farmer knows his
fields ; knew the habits of every animal they hunted, and
could have found their way blindfold to a given spot ; and
soon Byam saw the reason for this sort of stalking. They
were steadily driving the deer towards the more open
woodland, all the while keeping as far as possible away
from the herd ; for the ears and nerves of some deer are
so delicate, that the fall of a dead twig several yards from
them will cause them to start off at a frightened gallop.
As the ground began to assume more the appearance of
181

A HYPOCRITICAL OX
a park, the Indians pulled up short again ; a whispered
conversation took place, and then the leader, taking the
" reins " of the ox from the man who held them, shortened
them so that, in driving the animal, he would be just at
its haunches, and, with a gentle pat on the ribs, started it
off in the direction of the deer. Byam made as though to
follow the driver, but the Indian nearest him drew him
back respectfully, laying his finger on his Hps to enjoin
silence. The driver had now bowed himself so that his head and
shoulders were no longer visible above the hind-quarters
of the bullock, and, as he gently kept pace with it, he was
stealthily fitting an arrow to his bow.
At first sight of the new arrival, the deer scampered a
few yards further off; then stopped again to take another
view of him.
At once the old humbug slackened his pace, bent his
head, and unconcernedly began to feed ; yet never lost a
chance of creeping a few feet nearer to the deer, which,
coming to the conclusion that " it was only an ox,"
continued their meal.
Steadily the distance between hunter and hunted was
reduced, till the ox was almost in the midst of the herd.
Then, like lightning, flew an arrow, piercing one of the
deer through the neck, and, before the others had
recovered from the shock of seeing their companion fall,
a second lay dead ; and, as the frightened creatures fled
at full speed, a third arrow brought down another. Then,
with a shout of triumph, the Indians rushed from their
hiding-place to take possession of the booty.
For centuries the Indians have practised this method of
182

A Hypocritical Ox
- -ullock, which quite entered im . . m. ¦-,, , u
pace, and even unconcernedly leeding, when the deer appeared to be su> ; „  ,

The I^'™.1a,t..!^™d..,hB bul'«*. whict q-te entered into the stratagem, slackening

KING OF THE VULTURES
killing the deer, and the oxen used for the purpose are
specially trained to their work from calf-hood. As soon
as the horns are grown to any size, the animal is tethered
to a tree and the roots of the horns are beaten with sticks
till they become loose and very sensitive. For some days
after, the ox is driven round and round a tree by cords
attached to its horns, till it learns as readily to obey a
pull to the left or right as a horse responds to its bit. In
time the horns regain their firmness, but the roots always
remain sensitive, and the ox quickly acquires the habit of
being guided by means of them.
Deer were not the only game to be had. Often from
his own door the captain could shoot boars, pumas, pan
thers, coyotes and vultures ; and, at times, received visits
from even less desirable acquaintances, in the form of
cobras and boa-constrictors.
He had rather a singular experience one day. He had
been obliged to shoot one of his horses, and, while the
animal lay awaiting decent burial, a small flock of vultures
hovered overhead. One of the Indians, beckoning to his
master from the hut-door, said ; " Come inside, Senor, and
watch. You may see a curious sight. The King of the
Vultures has been flying about here the last few days."
Both men withdrew into the seclusion of the rancho,
and, presently, the carrion-birds made a descent on the
dead horse.
But scarcely had they begun their meal when there was
a loud, whirring noise in the air, and a vulture of unusual
size swooped down upon the carcass. In an instant the
other birds left their prey and retired slowly, more as
though from respect than from fear, to a short distance
183

A PUMA KILLED
away, where they stood and waited patiently while His
Majesty gorged himself to his heart's content. At
intervals other vultures appeared, but not one ventured
to go near the body till the king had withdrawn in a
dignified manner ; then the others at once flocked to
finish the remnants of the feast.
When he had grown well acquainted with the forest,
Byam occasionally wandered some distance from the
rancho unattended, either in quest of game or in pursuit
of his mineralogical researches.
During one of these rambles he was suddenly startled
by a sound which he had certainly not expected to hear
in that deserted spot — the screaming of a couple of
children ; and, looking up from his digging, he saw two
little Indian girls, delirious with fright, and an old puma
creeping stealthily up to them.
In a general way the puma is less dangerous than the
panther, being far more cowardly. But, whereas the pan
ther will seldom attack mankind except in self-defence —
when he is almost as implacable an adversary as the
Bengal tiger — the puma will track a man for miles, stop
ping when he stops, running when he runs, in the hope of
catching him asleep ; and will (particularly when growing
old) sometimes deliberately attack a child or undersized
man. Too tried and wary a hunter to be far away from his
gun, Byam had the beast covered before it had advanced
another couple of yards, and shot it through the heart just
as it was couching for a spring.
The parents coming up at that moment were full of
gratitude. 184

'JAVALINOS'
Escaping at length from their profuse acknowledgments,
he had returned to his work when a series of sharp grunts
behind him made him take to his gun again ; for he knew
that a wild boar was at hand, and might resent his
presence there.
The boars in Central America are of two kinds ;
savalin-os or musk pigs, and javalinos; the latter much
larger and fiercer, and usually to be found in herds. The
musk pig is more or less inoffensive — except when it
comes to the eating of him ; then (unless the small hump
on his neck has been cut off at the very moment of his
death) he can be the nastiest dish ever set before living
man. But javalinos are much more formidable, and, if
one of their number is slain, the whole herd will band
together to destroy the slayer.
The captain had heard of this clannish peculiarity of
theirs, but yielding to his sportsman's instinct, and wish
ing to verify what the Indians had told him of the
animal's habits, he fired. The boar fell, lifted up his
voice in a long-drawn grunt, which — if it was intended to
call his friends and relations together — met with signal
and swift success ; and, before the animal had breathed
its last, Byam had found it expedient to climb the nearest
tree ; for about three score of the infuriated beasts were
bearing down upon him,
The pigs, as soon as they saw where the slaughterer
had taken refuge, drew themselves into a rough circle
round the tree, and seemed to signify, by their snorts
and sullen appearance generally, that they had every
intention of starving him out.
The explorer had been digging, but his labours had not
185

BESIEGED
been of a nature to force him to remove his light shooting-
jacket, the pockets of which contained his cigar-case,
spirit-flask, a hunch of bread, and a substantial cold steak
of venison ; his cartridge-belt was buckled round him, and
he had slipped the sling of his gun over his shoulder
before climbing the tree ; so that he could — if he did not
fall asleep — stand a six and thirty hours' siege if necessary.
But that prospect was not inviting, and, making himself
as comfortable as the circumstances would permit, he
began to think out his plan of defence or retreat.
To pick the animals off one by one might answer ; but
then he was wofully short of ammunition, and, before the
day was out, he might have to encounter enemies to whom
his exalted position would be no obstacle.
Two hours passed by, and still the creatures stood
staring spitefully up at him.
It was just possible that a charge or two of shot,
judiciously distributed among them, might disperse them ;
and, with this end in view, he fired, aiming, for no par
ticular reason, at an elderly boar, whose head happened
to be in a direct line with him. The hapless beast, being
but ten yards from the foot of the tree, received consider
ably more than his share of the charge on his face and
head ; and, with the most diabolical squeals, turned tail,
and, rushing through his companions, took up a position
about fifty yards away, grunting dismally.
Bent on revenge, the herd charged madly at the tree-
trunk ; but, finding it insensible to their form of argument,
retired again. The old boar continued his grunts, till at
length the herd turned to join him. Seeing this, he
grunted the louder, and set off at a measured trot into
186

FIGHT BETWEEN SNAKES
the forest-depths, whither all the others followed him
without paying further attention to the enemy whom
they had "treed."
Fearing that they might have gone in search of a re
inforcement, Byam lost no time in getting down and
making for the rancho, which he reached without further
molestation. Shortly before quitting his forest-dwelling Captain
Byam witnessed an interesting example of the struggle
for existence among the reptile inhabitants of Central
America. Not far from the rancho was a stream, about
three feet in width, where he sometimes amused himself
by watching the daily procession of snakes that came to
drink there ; for they usually frequent the small hidden
streamlets rather than the rivers and lakes. One evening
at sunset, as he was thus occupied, a black snake and a
rattlesnake arrived at the brook at the same time, but
from opposite banks.
The black snake is — next to the boa-constrictor — the
largest of his kind to be found in that region ; and, though
harmless where man is concerned, is very vicious and ill-
tempered, will spring at any animal, large or small, and is
the hereditary enemy of the rattlesnake. This particular
individual no sooner caught sight of his foe, than he
threw himself across the stream, and in another minute
the two were locked in deadly struggle.
With their dark, sinuous bodies intertwined, they rocked
and wriggled and writhed, first this way and then that,
the black snake warily keeping clear of the fangs of his
poisonous opponent. At last the rattlesnake's head fell
back and hung limply down; the black snake had con-
r87

A PUBLIC BENEFACTOR
quered, and without more ado swallowed his venomous
victim and wriggled off in triumph.
" Never again, as long as I live," said Byam, laughing,
as he turned away, " will I shoot such a benefactor to
mankind as the black snake."

iSS

CHAPTER XVI
A FOREST IN CALIFORNIA
The Californian gold fever — The journey to the gold-fields — Dangers
attendant on Chinese cookery — The desert in the forest — Dis
illusionment — The gold-fields — Shaw's departure, and life among
the backwoodsmen — Indian depredations — Two new friends —
The murdered colonists — A mission of vengeance — Tracking
Indians — Retributive justice — The property recovered and the
pursuers pursued.
It was the time of the Californian gold fever, when all
sorts and conditions of men were rushing blindly from one
side of the globe to the other, with the comfortable assur
ance that all one had to do, in order to become enormously
and fabulously wealthy, was to go to the " diggings " and
pick up gold by the shovelful. There was the gold, those
might gather it who chose, said they.
Among the many thus " bitten " was a young British
naval officer, William Shaw, who, having resigned his
commission, was leading a wandering life in Australia
when the news of the great American gold-find began to
demoralize the world. Without hesitation, the adven
turous youth took ship for San Francisco, where he
joined a party of about twenty men, of all nationalities,
who were bound for the diggings.
Having provided themselves with weapons, tools, pack-
189

CHINESE COOKERY
mules and guides, the little army of gold-seekers began
their march inland, blind to difficulties and perils, and
seeing only healthy, pleasurable excitement, and ultimate
wealth, in the path that lay before them. And, indeed,
the early days of the march were pleasant enough, for the
way lay through well-watered, park-like land, studded
with oaks and cypresses and sycamores — the threshold, as
it were, of the great Californian Forest.
Day by day, however, the trees became more frequent
and the grass scarcer, till, though no one could actually
have said where meadow-land ended and woodland began,
the procession found itself buried in the almost trackless
forest. By this time it was becoming advisable to eke out
the supplies of dried meat with whatever game could be
snared or shot ; and, on the next halt, the Chinese servants
were told off to " catch something good, for supper " ;
while the would-be miners saw to the bedding of horses
and cleaning of fire-arms.
Supper-time came, and with it a most grateful smell of
roast meat, which the celestials proceeded to serve out,
and which — proving as good in the eating as in the
smelling — quickly disappeared in the midst of a merry
discussion as to whether it was rabbit or squirrel,
opossum or cat.
Soon after the meal was ended, Shaw noticed his Malay
servant stretching some skins on sticks, preparatory to
drying them.
" What are those ? " he asked carelessly. " Let's look."
The skins were brought within the circle of fire-light,
and, after a moment's examination, the young Englishman
held out, in disgusted silence, for his friends' admiration —
190

DESERT IN THE FOREST
half-a-dozen wild cat skins, so alarmingly Hke that of the
ordinary domestic " tabby " in marking, that those of the
adventurers who were not temporarily incapacitated rose
in a body, and made things distinctly uncomfortable for
the simple Asiatics with the aid of belts or whips.
But hearts were too buoyant and spirits too high for
such a trivial vexation to have more than a momentary
effect. The travellers were one day nearer to the land of
gold ; one wearisome march the less was ahead of them ;
and they turned in for the night, good-humouredly
grudging the time that must needs be wasted in repose.
Towards noon on the next day the forest gloom seemed
to dimmish, and, every now and then, momentary glimpses
of sun and blue sky ahead were obtainable. The Indian
guides were at once besieged with questions. Was this
the end of their journey ? Had they come to the gold-
fields at last ?
" It is only a strip of treeless ground," was the reply.
"Beyond it is more forest; then the spot where the
palefaces are digging."
The travellers took heart of grace ; they were growing
a little bit tired of forest scenery, and open country would
be an agreeable change. But when they came to it —
what open country! It was a strip of stone desert,
boundless at either end, and about fifteen miles across.
Even here there ought to be consolation, argued Shaw ;
the horses had been spoiling for a gallop for some days,
and would welcome a bare couple of hours' run, after the
confinement of the woods.
But that gallop very soon dwindled till it became a
toilsome crawl, and the "couple of hours' run" stretched
191

THE GOLD-FIELDS
itself into seven hours of parching, panting misery
under a Sahara-like sun. When at length they came to
the other side, the adventurers were very glad to escape
from the tortures of the wilderness, and to bury themselves
in the forest again.
On the succeeding days the ground grew first more and
more hilly, and then mountainous ; open spaces became
more frequent, sometimes those of Nature's clearing, hut
more often the result of recent felling. Then the elements
of a road appeared, and, more exciting still, smoke, either
from camp-fires or more distant chimneys.
" The diggings at last, lads," shouted Shaw gleefully;
and one of the guides who understood English nodded in
confirmation. " Soon," he said, with an air that was at once nonchalant,
indulgent and commiserating.
As the party fell into a rough-cut roadway the sound of
voices and hoofs made them look ahead. Half-a-dozen
men were riding towards them, and all combined to give
these a cheer, for it was long since they had seen other
than Indian faces.
"Hurrah!" they shouted as the two companies met.
"We're off to the gold-fields. Where are you bound
for ? "
"Away from them," was the sour reply; and the
horsemen pushed past the new-comers with a very ill
grace. "What's it like?" asked Shaw civilly of the man
who passed nearest to him. The reply was brief and
pointed. " Go and see ! " 192

DISILLUSIONMENT
And they went and saw.
What they saw has been too often told to call for repe
tition here. "Hell let loose" is one traveller's apt
description of the Californian gold-diggings.
Young Shaw tried his luck for a week or two, and, at
the end of that time, had found rather less than an
ounce of gold. But the drunkenness and gambling, the
grabbing and quarrelling, the almost daily murder or
suicide, together with the constant company of the cream
of the world's rascality, were too much for the nerves of
any one but a rogue or a miser; and the English lad,
having laid in a further stock of ammunition, thankfully
joined himself to a company of backwoodsmen who had
come out of their forest home to see the gold-fields, and
who, like him, were very ready to barter Californian
civilization for pure Nature once more.
The change brought its own reward, and Shaw soon
settled down to a healthy life in the forest, felling and
rafting timber, hunting, trapping, and driving off stray
Indians, who from time to time hung about the camp on
the chance of plunder. These had a clever spy system by
which the comings and goings of the white men were
always known to them; thus, if the camp were but
deserted for half-an-hour, the settlers found on their
return that a horse or a weapon or some other valuable
had disappeared, although there had been no sign pre
viously of the presence of Indians within miles. The
thieves becoming more and more audacious, it was deter
mined that, whenever duty called the main body of men
out of sight of the camp, two of their number should be
left to guard it.
¦3 193

TRACKING INDIANS
One day when Shaw had strayed farther than usual
into the more secluded part of the forest he was suddenly
startled by the sound of human voices from among the
trees, and close at hand.
"Redskins !" he muttered, and, dropping lightly into
the undergrowth, cocked his rifle. But in another
minute he was springing to his feet delightedly, for, in
place of the expected Indian dialect, he could now catch
tones and words that were indisputably English. As he
hurried forth from his hiding-place, two men in trapper
dress came in sight from among the trees hard by.
The strangers were no less pleased and excited than
Shaw at meeting a fellow-countryman, for neither had
seen England for over twenty years. They were two
brothers of good family, who, through the failure of a
bank, had found themselves suddenly penniless, and,
having emigrated, had for many years followed the occu
pation on which Shaw had now entered.
To his earnest invitation to join his camp fire that
night, the elder brother answered, "Thanks; but we
haven't a minute to lose. We're tracking Indians."
" The trail runs this way," said the younger, pointing
in the direction of Shaw's road homeward.
" The more reason why you should come back with
me," he urged triumphantly. " But— where's the trail ? "
For, to his still inexperienced eye, there was no positive
evidence of any one's haviDg passed that way ; no clay or
loose soil in which footmarks could have been detected ;
for the ground was firm turf, partially carpeted with dead
leaves. But, to his new friends, every indentation, every
broken twig or half-trampled bush or disturbed bramble
194

INDIAN DEPREDATIONS
seemed to be a sure sign of the recent march past of a
considerable body of red-skinned warriors.
" We left a man in charge of our camp," said Harry, the
younger brother, as they began to move swiftly forward,
" and, when we and the other chaps got back, we found
him dead and scalped, and the stores about cleared
out." Shaw was rather staggered. " Perhaps they're our old
enemies," he said; and told of the depredations at his
own camp. At this intelligence Frank, the elder
Englishman, half stopped.
"Do you think your fellows would join us in making an
example of the beggars ? " he asked thoughtfully.
" Come back and see," urged the young man. " I can
promise for myself. This is our nearest way hack," he
added, taking a sharp bend to the right.
"And this is just the way the trail goes," muttered
Harry. " Shouldn't wonder if they've given you a friendly
call as well."
This possibility had already struck Shaw, and he
hastened his companions forward.
The chance surmise proved unhappily correct, and the
Englishmen found the camp in great commotion. The
backwoodsmen had returned from their rafting to find the
watchmen dead, riddled with arrows, and themselves
robbed of their entire stock of flour, and of all available
arms, horses and powder.
Harry and Frank were immediately recognized by three
of the woodsmen as perhaps the ablest and most skilful
trackers of the whole forest ; and on their representations,
a search-party of ten, including Shaw, very willingly put
i95

IN PURSUIT
themselves at the disposal of the two Englishmen. By
nightfall they had marched a good six miles, for at first
the trail was easy to follow, lying, as it frequently did,
along soft clay in which the imprint of hoofs and moc
casins showed distinctly enough. But, before the seventh
mile was accomplished, the grassless patches became rarer
and soon there ceased to be any signs of the Indians'
passage, beyond such as required daylight to render them
traceable. In their haste, the avengers had not troubled to bring
provisions from the camp ; their thoughts were too full
of their murdered comrades to leave room for questions
of bodily comfort. Of course it was easy enough to shoot
deer or antelopes ; but they had no intention of warning
their enemies that white men were in the neighbourhood.
" I suppose we shall get our supper to-morrow," remarked
Shaw, somewhat snappishly ; for he had not yet mastered
the lesson of philosophical self-denial which life in the
backwoods teaches.
" Don't cry before you're hurt," said one of the older
men. " Them two Britishers '11 see to it we don't starve ;
they aren't no babes in the wood," he continued drily.
This turned out to be true ; for, after a short absence,
the Englishmen returned with a well-grown buck on their
shoulders. " Here's meat — make up the fire, some of you— and
there's drink," said Harry, pointing to the stream by which
they had camped. Despite the gloom of the wood, the
brothers had been able to discover that deer were crouch
ing close at hand ; and, having found the herd, had crawled
very stealthily, inch by inch, through the scrub till within
196

A SILENT MARCH
a few yards of them, when a cleverly thrown bowie-knife
had pierced the neck of the nearest animal.
At sunrise the pursuit was resumed, and, after a brisk
three hours' march, the leaders stopped abruptly for the
others to come up with them. One or two men gave a
low whistle of satisfaction; they had come upon the
Indians' halting-place of the previous night, as was
evidenced by the fact that recently-picked hones lay
about the ground, and, in one place, a half-emptied bag
of their own flour, which had been overlooked at the time
of the redskins' departure. Frank kicked at a heap of
wood-ashes where the fire had been, and a few sparks
were at once laid bare,
" There, boys," he said in a low voice ; "we've not led
you far astray. There were as many as twenty of the
reptiles camped here last night, and they haven't been gone
more than a couple of hours. Come on ; let's waste no
time ; and let no man speak above a whisper."
Forced into subduing his own intense excitement by
the marvellous coolness of the older hands, Shaw followed
silently with the. rest; and for some hours the little pro
cession glided swiftly along, with almost less stir over the
fallen twigs and leaves than one ordinary man would have
made. As time went on, this weird progress through the
appalling stillness of the forest began to tell upon the
young Englishman's nerves ; there was something uncanny
about it all, like a march of the dead. At last he could
bear the strain of the silence and tension no longer, and
was about to address a whispered remark to his neighbour
when the two guides themselves began a muttered con
versation, accompanied by significant gestures. Then
197

A GARDEN OF EDEN
Frank turned, and pointing to a tangled mass of brush
wood, said in a loud whisper —
" Get into single file, boys, and sneak along Hke cats ; "
and the next moment he was on his hands and knees
leading the way through broom and brambles. Again the
quiet assurance and utter absence of fussiness or bombast
where these men were concerned, helped to calm Shaw,
and he took up his position in the long, sinuous line,
satisfied that the enterprise was in better hands than his
own. Ten minutes of this work brought them to the end
of the bush, and on to a ring of open grass ground which
appeared to encircle a dell, so deep that, in places, the
summits of the trees did not even reach the level.
The trackers signed to the men to halt, and themselves
sprang lightly over the turf to the top of the downward
slope. After a brief pause both unslung their rifles, and
Frank signalled to the rest to come forward. Then, from
the brow of the hill, Shaw beheld what he afterwards
described as " a second Garden of Eden." The grass-grown
hollow, without being heavily timbered, seemed to contain
every kind of tree, creeper, fern and lichen to be found in
North America. The delicate tracery ofthe fohage through
which the sunlight filtered was just stirred by a mild
autumn breeze, and altogether the effect was so exquisite
as to make Shaw forget for the moment that even Eden
may contain an enemy ; and he was only brought back to
the recollection of it by the movement of dark figures
among the tree-trunks.
Suddenly recalled to things of earth, he peered forward
to gain a better view of the bottom of the dell. He could
now see that, in the centre of the grove a few wigwams
198

THE INDIAN CAMP
were pitched ; on the far slope where a stream ran down,
tamed mustangs were drinking side by side with the
stolen horses; while round about the wigwams or near
the fire were a score of Indian women and at least thirty
warriors. Two of the men were sorting out and arranging
a very considerable heap of plunder — knives, firearms,
harness, sacks of flour and kegs of spirits.
Before Shaw had found time to wonder how men, horses,
and booty could have penetrated the sea of undergrowth
through which the pursuers unencumbered had had the
greatest difficulty in passing, his attention was claimed by
a muttered consultation among the backwoodsmen.
"Spread out," Frank was saying. " Stretch right round
the dell, if possible ; then creep down towards the camp,
and fire when I shout."
The order was swiftly obeyed, and very soon each man
was standing forty yards apart from the next, by which
means the little company might be said to surround the
camp. Then all crept lower and lower till the murmur of
conversation below was distinctly audible.
Called upon to shoot at unsuspecting— and therefore
defenceless— men, Shaw leant against a tree-trunk and
fingered his gun irresolutely. His naval training had
accustomed him to a different kind of fighting. On the
other hand, that very training had made implicit obedience
to lawful authority second nature with him ; and, after all,
the men whom he was asked to slay had murdered, in cold
blood, two open-hearted fellows with whom, only four-and-
twenty hours before, he had been chatting, jesting, and
sharing tobacco. This reflection put an end to all further
hesitation, and, before the echo of Frank's sudden shout
199

RETRIBUTIVE JUSTICE
had died away, he had lodged a bullet in the heart of
a young brave who was gravely inspecting the heap
of plunder.
The sudden crash of the volley rendered the savages
frantic with panic ; at least ten of their number were lying
dead or wounded, and, before the rest could take up their
weapons or attempt flight, a second volley was discharged,
and another half-dozen fell. Not knowing which way to
turn, for smoke seemed to issue from every possible outlet,
the entrapped Indians charged blindly up the slope in all
directions, some few to escape, but the majority to be
brought into unexpected contact with the invaders, who,
with gun-butts, revolvers, or bowies, avenged not only the
poor fellows recently slain, but others ; for there was scarce
a man of them but had lost kinsman or chum at one
time or other at the hands of the treacherous savages.
Before long the victors met in the camp, deserted now
save by a few trembling women who were bewailing the
dead. " How many of them got off ? " asked Harry. " I missed
one of 'em."
" So did I," admitted two others.
" Then that's at least three to give the alarm to the
tribe," continued the Englishman grimly. " By sundown
we shall have a hundred on our track. Let's pack up
and clear; once back in your camp we can defy a
thousand of 'em."
Horses were soon untethered and baggage packed, and
meanwhile Frank hurried away to reconnoitre. When he
returned he was jubilant ; he had discovered the route by
which those Indians in charge of the horses had reached

THE PURSUERS PURSUED
the camp — a path so wide as to be almost a road ; yet so
much further round that the savages generally preferred
the brushwood.
Without further delay the backwoodsmen now entered
upon the return journey. And not a moment too soon;
for, so inconceivably rapid were the movements of Indian
war-parties in those days, the white men had not travelled
ten miles before a troop of fifty braves was within bow
shot of them.
Terribly hampered by the horses, which of course had to
be led at a foot pace, and starving for food and drink which
they had not ventured to stop for, Shaw and his com
panions groped their way doggedly through the forest,
prepared, at any moment, to see painted savages spring
out upon on all sides of them. At last arrows began to
drop among them ; at first tentatively and at random ;
then in systematic flights ; and, looking back, the fugitives
could plainly distinguish the figures of their enemies.
"Halt!" cried Frank; "give them one volley to gain
time, then on again."
This was done, and the sudden cessation of the arrow
shower told that some of the shots had taken effect.
" Forward ; they won't stop long to count their dead."
" Hark ! What was that ? " shouted Shaw.
"Bravo! A gun-shot and a hail from some of our
chaps," answered one of the backwoodsmen. "They've
heard the firing. Give 'em a shout."
Half-a-dozen men called at the top of their voices, and
an answering shout came, sounding much nearer than at
first; and by the time the savages were once more in
sight a score of well-armed hunters had appeared.

REINFORCEMENTS
" Want any help ? " they cried, delighted at the sight
of the recovered property.
" Ay ! You might cover our retreat," said Frank.
But the Indians had not counted on such a reinforce
ment for their foes. With a few harmless arrow-shots
they abandoned the pursuit, doubtless with good resolu
tions for the future ; for the white men's camp was never
again troubled with a visit from them.

CHAPTER XVII
IN THE COUNTRY OF THE ' AMAZONS '
Dahomey — The Duncan mission — Commander Forbes, R.N. —
Native porters— A thunder-storm— A disagreeable awakening-
Wolves and cobras— Wolf-traps— Deer-shooting— The monkeys
and the leopard— Deserted and alone— Weight-carrying, seven
degrees above the equator— The mysterious volley— The
Amazons.
Since the expedition of Duncan the explorer, and vice-
consul at Whydah, made in 1849-50 to the court of
Dahomey, much has been written by more recent and
perhaps better-informed travellers, of the sacrifices, the
terrible fetich-snake, the "Amazons" and their battles,
real or sham. The object of the Duncan mission was to
attempt to persuade the King of Dahomey to enter into
a treaty with the British Government for the suppression
of the West African traffic in slaves. By way of giving
some show of importance and officialism to his journey
inland, the vice-consul wisely took with him an escort of
a few bluejackets, under the command of his friend,
Captain Forbes, R.N., and it is the adventures of that
officer, rather than the progress and result of the mission,
that concern us here.
Leaving Whydah, where the escort had been put
ashore, the expedition set out on their long land-journey,
much of which must take them through the swampy
203

NATIVE PORTERS
mangrove coppices and dense bush, characteristic of the
coast of the Gulf of Guinea ; and then on through alter
nate plains of red loam — where a man might search
thousands of acres for a single pebble and not find one —
and pleasant open forests of mahogany, palm, grape-vine
and sycamore.
The travellers formed, to European eyes, a curious
procession ; though common enough then, and now, in
Western Africa. First came fifteen stalwart women,
carrying on their heads the heavy bales of presents for the
Dahoman king; principally rum, silk and cowry-shells.
These poor souls, used all their lives — Hke their mothers
before them — to doing work for which, according to
Northern notions, men are better adapted, carried their
burdens uncomplainingly ; never offering to stop or rest
unless ordered to do so. Behind them walked two and
thirty strong negroes who carried the baggage, or bore an
occasional hand in carrying the two principal travellers
themselves in hammocks. These blacks were chiefly
remarkable for the fact that they did, grudgingly, less
than half the work that was done, almost cheerfully, by
less than half the number of women.
By the second evening the leaders began to think that
the time for their journey was hardly well chosen, for
they had no sooner encamped for the night in a sycamore
wood than, without the least sign or warning, a terrific
thunder-storm began, and threatened to rage for a
month. The natives, rolling themselves in their blankets,
threw themselves on their faces and refused to stir,
although the danger of remaining beneath the trees was
forcibly pointed out to them. The sailors, hastily pro-
204

DISAGREEABLE AWAKENING
tecting gun-barrels or anything else likely to attract the
lightning, made for the open space which the party had
crossed just before pitching their camp ; and hither the
captain persuaded the women to bring their burdens,
which, well protected by oil-skins, could take little harm
from the wet ; but no amount of argument would induce
the negroes to stir.
Shielding themselves as well as they could from the
unceasing rain, the Englishmen lay down to sleep. But
at early morning Captain Forbes woke suddenly, hearing
a sharp cry of alarm some few yards off, where his own
servant was lying ; and, as he sat up, he heard the snarl
of some wild beast from the same quarter. The servant
was lying on his back, calling lustily for help, and
endeavouring with his hands to keep off a large, gaunt-
looking wolf that had sprung on him. The rain had
ceased, and the animal, probably deprived of an over
night meal by the sudden violence of the storm, had
sneaked into the camp evidently with the intention of
making a repast off one of the sleepers.
Before the captain could cock his pistol, or reach the
struggling man, the wolf, enraged at meeting with opposi
tion where he had expected to find none, was growling
and snapping like a ferocious dog ; and the unfortunate
man under him was already bitten and scratched in three
or four places. Afraid to try a chance shot, the captain
ran forward, pistol in hand and shouting; but so great is
the natural cowardice of the wolf, even when famished,
that the beast, seeing a reinforcement coming, leapt off
his prey and was taking to his heels when Forbes" pistol-
bullet put an end to him. 205

WOLVES AND COBRAS
When the scattered army of bearers had been collected
again, the march was recommenced.
" Why don't your people kill off these wolves ? " asked
Forbes of the negro who walked nearest him ; but the
man, whose intelligence was not seriously above the
average, first gaped and finally looked frightened
" Well ? Why don't you hunt them ? "
The man looked more frightened still; and this time
he said slowly —
" Not many people dare. It is only we porters and a
few country people who will venture into this forest at
all." " Why ? "
"There are too many cobras," was the shuddering
reply. Later in the day, as they came towards some native
huts, Forbes noticed some wooden structures, something
between a hencoop and an enormous mouse-trap.
" Those," said the negro, " are wolf-traps. Our people
catch a good many wolves like that, but this is almost
the only part of the forest where they dare come to make
and set the snares. Farther on we shall perhaps see no
one for two or three days."
This prophecy was fulfilled. The terror of the cobra or
hooded snake among the native population seemed to be
intense ; and not to be wondered at either, for, on that
very afternoon, one of the bearers was bitten by one, and
died before remedies could be applied. This venomous
snake, not unlike the Indian cobra, is about three feet
long, of a dirty brown colour on the back, and bluish white
underneath. The name of "hooded snake" was first
206

DEER-SHOOTING
given to the East Indian variety, by the Portuguese, on
account of its habit of dilating the back and sides of its
neck when irritated. When the reptile closes its mouth
on any object, poison flows into the wound through a
cavity in the tooth, and this is almost certain to cause
death within a few hours.
An interesting feature in connection with the creature
which the bearers mentioned — and which has since been
proved true by scientists, though Forbes strongly doubted
it — is its love for its mate ; it wiU fight for her to the
last, and many cases have been known in which a cobra
has been found dead by its slaughtered partner a day or
two after the latter had been killed.
During the next few days there was excellent deer-
shooting to be had ; and Captain Forbes, finding that the
way was now almost in a straight line, took a curving
route through the thicket where the deer were supposed
to be plentiful, arranging to meet the remainder of the
party higher up, at evening. This was the first time he
had ventured any great distance from the track, and he
now made his first acquaintance with the great African
cotton-plant. This is not unlike the Chinese cotton-tree,
except that its roots are more wide-spreading ; the upper
part of one lot of roots that Forbes took the trouble to
measure, covered forty square feet of ground.
Here also were sycamores again, some rising to a height
of a hundred and thirty feet.
In addition to the deer, he might have shot wild pigs
innumerable, to say nothing of wolves and monkeys. The
latter he could well have spent a whole day watching, so
interesting were their gambols. But, while the little
207

LEOPARD AND MONKEYS
animals were at the height of their glee and mischief, a
wailing scream rose from one of them, and this was taken
up by the rest as they scurried to the higher branches of
the tree on which they were playing. For a leopard,
almost full-grown, was stealthily creeping along the low
bough on which they had been assembled, his spots
rendering him so much a part of the tracery-like back
ground of leaves that, hitherto, he had not been
perceived ; for the monkey of both the new and the old
world invariably relies on the sense of sight far more than
on that of smell.
The bough seemed empty of them now, but still the
leopard was moving inch by inch forward; and, though
the chorus of screams had nearly ceased, there sounded
from one of the upper branches a noise almost like the
spasmodic sobbing of a child
The captain stole as near to the bough as it was safe to
venture, and then discovered that a baby monkey had
been left behind, and was either too weak, or too fascin
ated by fear, to reach the high twigs where the leopard
could not follow; and the sobbing noise was from the
mother who, on missing her offspring, had crept back as
low as she dared, and, divided between fear and maternal
love, hesitated over coming any further.
" Not if I know it ! " said Forbes, as he levelled his gun
at the beautiful deadly creature that had stopped for a
moment and was looking warily about him, probably now
aware of the presence of an enemy.
The bullet struck him in the right shoulder; but,
instead of dropping, as the captain expected him to do,
the leopard made a spring, swishing through the air as if
208

DESERTED AND ALONE
shot from a cannon, and landed on the turf within four
feet of the shooter.
Forbes had a second cartridge in his gun, but he was
not a man to run idle risks ; while he was bringing his
weapon to his shoulder again there would be ample time for
the beast to be upon him, for he was standing too much
in the way for either of the two blacks who were with him
to be able to help with his spare gun. Without any
waste of time he seized the rifle by the barrels and
delivered a blow with the butt end, that would have
almost killed a cart-horse, fairly on the raging brute's
skull, which cracked like an egg.
He turned to beckon the two attendants, but they
were nowhere in sight. He shouted ; bawled at the top
of his voice ; but received no answer. Clearly the sight
of the leopard had been too much for their nerves, and
they had fled. This was rather awkward ; not that they
could be relied upon as protection against any sort of
enemy, but because he wanted the leopard skin ; and, as
already they had left him to carry the two guns and a fat
buck which he had shot, it was a puzzle to see how his
trophies were to reach the camp. As to being alone —
that did not trouble him ; he was too old a sailor to get
far out of his bearings ; too used to sohtude to rely for
companionship on two savages whose language he scarcely
spoke or understood.
When he had skinned the leopard carefully, the tempt
ation to carry back the pelt was too great to be resisted ;
so making a bundle of that and a haunch of the buck, he
began his return journey. But, after his lengthy walk, he
was soon glad to rest; for a burden that any robust
14 209

A HEAVY BURDEN
Englishman would make light of in his own country, is
apt to tire him when he carries it several miles through
a forest, over rough ground, within less than ten degrees
of the equator.
While he lounged and consumed the rest of the pro
visions he had brought, the sun was rapidly declining,
and, for the first time, he bethought him that to carry
newly -slaughtered meat under trees that were apt to be
roosting-places for leopards, wild cats and other abomin
ations, was to run an insane risk ; so, picking up his
load again, he gave up the idea of working his way to the
spot in the track where he presumably might meet the
party; and, instead, struck out for the nearest point of
the forest-path, preferring two sides of a triangle to one,
when following the one meant walking over cobras and
under leopards.
Once in the road he trudged manfully on, safe in the
assurance that he could not now miss his companions. But
either his burden was heavier than it had appeared at first,
or else the train of bearers had moved more swiftly than he
had calculated upon ; for he seemed to have walked a day's
journey before the light of the watch-fire came into view.
The sight of it made him change the resolution he had
just come to, to throw away the venison and carry only
the leopard-skin. As he came near enough to be able to
distinguish the moving figures round the fire he pulled
up short in amazement ; for a great volley of musketry
roared out from among the trees about midway between
himself and the new camp. As there were not a couple
of dozen firearms among his whole party, the sound could
be none of their making.

Amaz:n W«;-

AMAZONS
He was hesitating as to whether or no he should drop
his load and make a run for the camp, when two figures,
which in the dying light bore a remarkable resemblance
to his unfaithful blacks, dashed out into the path and ran
towards the camp, showing all the signs of ungovernable
terror. A minute after there was a second volley, and then a
hundred or so dusky figures appeared from among the
trees, fell into double file like trained soldiers, and halted
not far in front of him.
Forbes dropped his burden, sat down on the dew-covered
grass and laughed till his sides ached at his own momen
tary fear, and the desperate terror of the two runaway
blacks. The grim-looking company before him were
Amazons — women soldiers — going through their evolu
tions in preparation for one of their celebrated sham-
fights ; rehearsing, in fact, the very entertainment which
he himself was to witness while at the Dahoman Court.

211

CHAPTER XVIII
HUNTING in a bengal forest
India as a forest country — Forest of the delta of the Ganges — Major
Leveson — Difficulty in obtaining guides — Lost in the forest —
The two paths and the herdsmen — Reception at the native village
— Spies ! — A novel method of procuring guides — The eight-days'
forest journey — Kogees — Handed over to another headman —
Further native notions of legal administration — Freed — Tiger-
shooting from a tree — Leveson "in a hole."
The immense forest-wealth of Hindustan has, in recent
years, been gradually restricted to those parts of the
country which would be useless for agricultural purposes.
But in the old days there was Httle system, and while
some forests that might well have been left standing
were ruthlessly hewn down, no check was kept on others
which too often encroached on good corn-growing land.
Thus, shortly before the Mutiny, English officers
stationed in Bengal, for instance, could find almost
unlimited sport in the forests which then grew (and are
still to be found at intervals) along the banks of the
Ganges, or further south near the borders of Madras.
One of the most successful big-game hunters of those
days was Major Leveson; whose adventures and narrow
escapes among the Indian forests were many and various.
An expedition which he made in pursuit of Bengal tigers
is one of the most interesting.

A FOREST REGION
Having heard that the low-lying districts above the
delta of the Ganges were infested with these destructive
animals, he sailed down the river intending to reach the
marsh jungles ; but his boat capsized, and it was only with
difficulty that he, with his two Indian servants and the
horses, came safely to land.
As he might as well now go one way as another, he
resolved to travel eastwards towards the downward sweep
of the Brahmaputra, and at once set about the business of
engaging guides. Here a surprise awaited him. No one
knew, or wanted to know, the country whither he was
bound. It was, asserted the natives, a region of swampy
forests, inhabited by cannibals, tigers, and wild dogs that
cared for nothing but human prey. If the Sahib had a
grain of sense he would give up the project.
In the end, a strong appeal to their cupidity aroused
three of them, who agreed to accompany him on condition
of his not asking them to go more than fifty miles ; and,
without waiting to give them an opportunity of changing
their minds, Leveson hurried them forward.
What the villagers had said as to jungles and forests
was proved true before they had gone half-a-dozen miles,
for mango, plantain, india-rubber and teak trees closed
round them on every side, and the dense growth was only
broken at brief intervals by swamps or bamboo thickets.
Once in the forest, the three guides slackened their
pace very considerably, seized on every possible excuse for
stopping, and, when urged on by their employer, com
plained that they could not possibly keep pace with the
horses. As evening drew nearer they still further evinced
their dislike to the task which they had undertaken by
213

LOST IN THE FOREST
reducing their already slow pace to a crawl, at every
moment casting furtive glances on all sides of them ;
and, directly the sun set, two of them stopped by mutual
consent, and then, doubling, began to run might and main
back to their homes. The third, seeing this manoeuvre,
expressed his immediate intention of following them.
Argument was useless, of course ; but when he saw that
he was not going to be forced onward against his will the
guide became almost obHging; told the three travellers
that their way lay straight ahead of them, and that they
might come to a village, if they kept on long enough.
Then he fled full-speed to rejoin his friends.
Having traversed close upon twenty miles in a more or
less circuitous direction, it would be almost as difficult to
find the way back, now that the guides had gone, as to go
on further; and, not to be deterred by trifles, Leveson
pursued his way in search of the hypothetical village.
But now appeared the reason of the guides finally
making up their minds to flee ; the path — wide enough in
most places for a couple of horsemen to ride abreast —
came to an abrupt end by a small pool, beyond which the
forest became denser than ever ; and there was no sign of
any man's ever having passed through it.
Leveson looked at his watch.
'' We'll go on for another hour," he said to the servants ;
" and, if we don't find a path by then, we'll give it up for
to-night." The allotted span of time was nearly exhausted when
they came upon not one but two paths, the first weed-
grown and obviously seldom used, the other sloppy and
but freshly trodden by cattle. 214

A NATIVE VILLAGE
" Then there is a village somewhere about," concluded
the Englishman.
They followed the track of the cattle for another mile,
and then came upon a large herd lying down by a pool,
and, in charge of them, three natives who, however savage
their appearance, spoke and understood the Bengali
dialect which Leveson was in the habit of using.
Their first suspicions being allayed, they showed them
selves good enough fellows ; shared their supper of pea-
chick and rice with the strangers, and very willingly
agreed to guide them to their village on the following
morning. After a peaceful night under the trees, Leveson had a
hearty breakfast, with plenty of palm-wine (for the palm
supplies the Hindu's wine-cellar as it thatches his hut and
provides him with his ropes and mats), and then followed
the herdsmen along the ten-mile track to the village.
As the strangers came in view ofthe native huts, a great
crowd marched forward to meet them ; for, as they had
come nearer to human habitations, they had met plenty
of boys more than willing to take upon themselves the
duty of forerunners. All these natives were armed with
spears and knives, great and small, but their manner was
peaceable — conciliatory, even — as they besought the white
man to accompany them to their " reception house " — an
edifice without which even the veriest hamlet would be
incomplete. Leveson noticed on the way thither that, while he was
merely a curiosity in the eyes of the forest folk, his ser
vants were objects of no little suspicion. Moreover, when
they came to the reception-house, whereas he was accom-
215

A POMPOUS HEADMAN
modated with a seat and refreshments, to await the arrival
of the headman, they were kept outside, held in semi-
custody, and treated with abruptness and even roughness.
This, he discovered later, was because they were believed
to be natives of the river-side village whence came the
cowardly guides, and which was regarded by the forest
people as continually harbouring and sending forth spies
and cattle-thieves.
The headman was not long in making his appearance.
He showed himself fussy and pompous, but polite ; con
gratulated Leveson on his safe arrival " among an unpre
tentious people " ; asked after not only his own health, but
that of a few of his relatives, and then, passing from
sentiment to business, broke off into an enquiry as to
what had brought the white man so far from his home.
"Sport," answered Leveson.
The headman held up his hands deploringly.
" Sport ? Alas ! You will find none here. You would
be wiser to turn back."
"But I came to shoot tigers."
The headman pretended never to have heard of such
things. " And wild pigs, and wild dogs — wild anything, in fact."
The headman thought awhile, and at last remembered
having heard of something of that sort at the next village.
Where was the next village ? Oh — seven, eight days'
journey through the forest, farther south-east.
" Can you lend me guides ? "
The headman thought again ; then, without answering,
went outside to confer with some of the more influential
men, and that in a sufficiently loud tone for the English-
216

TAKEN FOR A SPY
man to understand that he had come to the conclusion
that the stranger was, beyond all further question, a
Leveson turned the whole position swiftly over in his
mind. A week's journey south-east would, in all likeli
hood, take him to the Ganges again; possibly near the
spot for which he had been aiming when the boat cap
sized. Now, if these simple folk were assured that he was
a spy, they might kill him, but it was extremely im
probable ; they might imprison him, though that also was
very unlikely.
He had got thus far in his calculations, when the voices
outside again rose to a clamour, above which the headman
was forced, in order to make himself heard, to bawl his
decision ; which was that the white man should again be
questioned. If he should be proved innocent, he should
be allowed to wander back whence he came ; if, on the
other hand, he really was a spy, the sooner they were rid
of him the better ; let him be taken on to the next
village, treated courteously, but not lost sight of till all
responsibility for him was shifted on to the headman of
that place.
Leveson was about to jump for joy when the entrance
of the good man checked his transports ; and he was again
questioned. This time, by well-simulated confusion and
by artfully evasive replies, he managed to convey the
impression that he was the most dangerous spy unhung ;
and the headman (who probably went down to his grave
in the conviction that he was the wisest and most acute
judge in Hindustan) promptly made known his decision
in regard to so undesirable a member of society.
217

A FOREST JOURNEY
By this means the difficulty as to guides was effectually
put an end to, for half-a-dozen villagers insisted on con
ducting the Englishman on his long forest journey.
The first few days were very disappointing from a
sportsman's point of view; for, beyond one or two
leopards, some snipe and black partridges, Leveson shot
nothing. The first time he shot a leopard, his guides —
or guards — were divided as to whether they should run
away and leave him to find his way by himself, or fall
down and worship the shooter. Some curiosity as to the
mysterious weapons which the strangers carried had, in
deed, been evinced in the village, but no one had dreamt
or thought that the guns were anything more deadly than
elaborately-fashioned clubs. But, at the report, and the
simultaneous fall of the leopard, their wonderment was
boundless; and it even increased later, when they saw
him bring down a bird on the wing.
During the last day or two of the journey the men
began to see to the condition of their own weapons — a
proceeding which the Englishman watched with satis
faction, for it was accompanied by greater care in
passing through the jungles, and by grave hints that
tigers were no strangers to the neighbourhood.
The last morning of the march brought them to a less
thickly-wooded patch of country, dotted in places with
huge, moss-grown rocks. Here, the guides said, there
might be an opportunity of deer-shooting ; and, with one
of the natives, Leveson wandered off to a suitable hiding-
place behind one of the rocks to watch for the passing of
a possible herd. He had not long to wait, for three fine
stags soon appeared, running at the top of their speed
218

KOGEES
towards the more hilly quarter; while behind them
sounded a rough, barking noise, like that made by a pack
of wolves.
" Kogee ! " whispered the guide, and, looking where the
man pointed, Leveson saw a crowd of from fifty to a
hundred reddish, wolf-like beasts in hot pursuit.
The kogee, or Indian wild dog, is a soft-coated animal
about the size of a pointer, of remarkable fleetness and
very keen of scent. They always hunt in packs of about
seventy, and will even face and destroy a tiger, though
generally frightened of human beings.
Leveson fired into the pack, and his companion gleefully
pointed out that one of the kogees had fallen; but all
chance of deer-shooting was gone for that day ; and early
next morning they arrived at " the next village " — a
miserable collection of bamboo huts lying, as Leveson had
anticipated, in that part of the forest bordering almost on
the river, and not many miles from the tiger-haunted
district which he had first thought of exploring.
Here his guards handed him over as a spy — and a man
who could " shoot flying."
The second fact very much outweighed the first in the
estimation of the headman, and, before he could attend to
questions of law, he had to be shown the working of the
remarkable instrument that could accomplish such a feat.
To convince him that the white man could do what they
had said, his late guides pointed to a vulture and implored
him to bring it down, which he did, to every one's
amazement. But one of the most officious of Leveson's late com
panions was determined that his dangerous reputation
219

AT THE HEADMAN'S COURT
should not be lost sight of, and, before leaving, took
occasion to poison the mind of the headman against his
visitor ; the consequence being that on the next day the
Englishman was summoned before the headman's court to
give an account of himself.
The accused stoutly maintained his innocence — inci
dentally mentioning that his sole purpose was to find
his way to the river. This was an unwise admission,
for it gave a handle to the headman which he was not
slow to grasp. Whatever the defendant might not want
to do, now ceased to have any interest ; the point was, that
he must be foiled in what he did want to do. He wanted
to go to the river ; therefore he must be given clearly to
understand that he might go in any other direction but
that! When this resolution was made known, Leveson began
to regret his rashness in ever having passed himself off
as a spy, for, if he was not to be allowed to pass through
the tiger district, he would have thrown away a great part
of his leave to no purpose.
But, as he stood reflecting, one of the servants touched
his arm and said in English —
" You must frighten them, Sahib. Storm ; roar ; shout
as if you were on parade ; and their hearts will turn to
water, and they will fear you."
Leveson took the hint. Laying his hand on his gun he
yelled at the headman that he was an enemy to mankind,
a cumberer of the earth, and ought to be cut off in the
flower of his beauty, for not recognizing a universal
benefactor in a white man who came solely to slay
the man-eating tiger; and ended by threatening to

BAIT FOR TIGER
bring down on his head the vengeance of the white
soldiers. The headman turned with chattering teeth to an old
man who stood near, for further counsel. This ancient
had been a great traveller in his day, having been almost
as far as Calcutta, and was the' only man not awe-struck
by Leveson's prowess with the gun. He had seen the
white soldiers fight, and he now implored the headman to
let this terrible being go whither he would. And so
effective was his eloquence that no further obstacle was
raised to Leveson's departure, and, further, he was provided
with a couple of guides — tried tiger-hunters — to conduct
him on his expedition towards the river.
That evening the party left the hamlet for the verge of
a low jungle, and, when the camp was pitched, Leveson
prepared to go with one of the guides to shoot a tiger
from a tree. His servants, who were well acquainted with
tiger-shooting, now reminded him that he had no bait.
" Go back to the village, then, and buy some," he said.
" Bait ? " queried the guide.
After a while the men returned, hustling an old
billy-goat along by the horns. The guide stared. Did
white men pursue tigers with goats ?
Following the forest native to a likely spot, the servants
tethered the goat to a tree, and then all climbed another
close at hand.
They had to wait for a couple of long hours in this
position, and then the guide bent his head forward to
Hsten. " Tiger ! " he whispered.
Leveson roused himself from a half-doze in time to hear

TIGER-SHOOTING
a bleat of terror from the poor old goat, and to see as it
were two points of green flame steadily advancing. The
points came nearer, and, by the light of the moon, the
watchers saw a tigress, followed at a short distance by a
cub. The goat bleated more lustily than ever ; then was
still again, for one pat from the tigress's paw had killed
him. The cub advanced, and sought to begin its supper ; but
its teeth could not penetrate the tough, hairy skin of the
carcass. With motherly solicitude, the tigress showed the
little one the more tender parts, and ate but sparingly
herself till her offspring's hunger was appeased.
When she had finished her own meal Leveson fired, and
she rolled over; but immediately rose again and sprang
into the thicket. At a venture he fired again, and a
mournful whine from among the canes and high grass
told that the cub also was hit.
The hunters were now in a most awkward predicament ;
somewhere near there was a wounded tigress "bereaved
of her whelp " — the most terrible adversary that could well
be imagined. All shuddered at the thought of encounter
ing her, and no one ventured to leave the tree till day
light. When at last the sun rose, Leveson and the native
hunter followed the trail, and soon heard a dismal moaning
sound in front of them. The mother lay dead, and the
little one, wounded in the haunch, crouched whining by
the side of her.
Putting the cub out of its misery, they returned with
the skin of the tigress, and, after a few hours' sleep at
the camp, resumed their journey, and at last reached the
Ganges.

'IN A HOLE'
Before his leave expired, Leveson determined to try the
experiment of shooting a tiger from a hole, and one night
went alone to a pit, chin-high, in which he could stand and
aim from behind a battlement of logs. As on the former
occasion, the game would not come to order, and, shivering
with cold, he waited till just upon dawn before the animal
appeared. At ten paces he fired, and the tiger fell, writhing and
gnawing his paw savagely. Leveson fired again, and
struck the brute in the chest. He had taken the pre
caution to bring two guns with him ; but before he could
exchange the empty for the loaded one, there was a
whizzing noise in the air as of some heavy weight being
propelled over his head. The tiger had sprung straight
into the pit, which was barely fifteen feet square,
A sickly feeling of fear came over the hunter ; he could
hear the animal's loud breathing, which now and then rose
to a groan ; could feel by the vibration of the twigs and soil
under his feet that the beast was endeavouring to creep
towards him ; but that was all ; it was still almost dark,
and while the wounded creature could see quite clearly, to
him the place was all blackness and gloom.
He reached for his second gun, and, as he strained his
sight in trying to distinguish his terrible foe, his courage
returned ; his eyes grew accustomed to the half-light, and
he could now see distinctly. The tiger had managed to
get on his feet again, but before the furious beast could
tear him with tooth or claw, a bullet crashed through his
skull, and Leveson was safe.

223

CHAPTER XIX
IN THE BRAZILIAN SELVAS
A tour in the forests of the Amazon — Henry Walter Bates — From
Para to the Amazon — Scenery in the selvas — Tropical wonders —
A spider's meal — Ants — The " murderer " — Wallace and Bates
separate — Along the Tapajos River — Fire-ants — A drunken
mulatto boatman — Another ; with disastrous results — Narrow
escape of the baggage — A restless night in the forest — After
turtles — A curious arrow — Netting turtles — And alligators !
Of the two great scientists, Wallace and Bates, who
together explored a great portion of the selvas, or forests,
on the south bank of the Amazon, in the middle of the
nineteenth century, the former is no doubt the better
known, both in the scientific world and also to the general
reader ; yet the major part of the honour of having added
very considerably to our knowledge of the zoology and
botany of Brazil must be said to fall to Bates ; for the
more important discoveries and exciting adventures took
place after Alfred Russell Wallace had separated from his
friend. Henry Bates was of humble parentage, and essentially
a self-made man. From childhood all his leanings had
been towards natural history, and when a Leicester shop-
boy he had scoured every foot of the Charnwood Forest in
search of rare flowers, birds and insects. It was this same
adventurous disposition and love of Nature that prompted
224

SCENERY IN THE SELVAS
him, at the age of three-and-twenty, when he had already
made some little reputation by the publication of one or
two pamphlets on scientific subjects, to throw up his
work as a brewery clerk and to accompany Mr. Wallace
to Brazil.
The two landed at Para, and started thence on a walk
that was to last many months, through the BraziHan
forest towards the bank of the Amazon.
The effect produced by the majestic scenery on the mind
of a young fellow who had never seen anything more
imposing than the remains of the Leicestershire forest
may well be imagined. On either side of the road sprang
up what looked like a wall of trees, a hundred feet in
height, " nearly the whole frontage, from ground to summit,
being covered with a diversified drapery of creeping plants,
all of the most vivid shades of green."
Perhaps the feature of that part of the selvas which
would most strike the stranger was the almost entire
absence of flowers ; for, with the exception of the passion
flowers — and those a bright scarlet — there seemed to
be none. Yet colour could not be said to be wanting,
for, in addition to these, the yellow blossom of the cassia
trees stood out strongly against its green background,
and, in places, the air seemed full of gorgeous dragonflies
and butterflies, striped or spotted, orange or blue, grass-
green or red.
Towards the river, as the wood thickened and the path
dwindled, the travellers found that they were gradually
descending upon a low, swampy jungle, and here every
step of the way became fraught with danger ; for every
where poisonous reptiles lurked, and the naturalists could
15 225

TROPICAL WONDERS
scarcely touch a tree or a bush without risk of being
bitten or stung ; nor was it till they reached the higher
ground adjoining the river-bank that their researches
could be pursued with a moderate amount of safety.
On the fringe of the bank which they were now reaching
there was scarcely a square yard of ground but contained
some new wonder, now vegetable, now animal. In one
place a mygale (a huge, repulsive-looking spider) was
devouring a humming-bird that had entangled itself in
the delicate, muslin-like web spread for it; in another
'' an ant was seen stretching forth first one leg and then
another to be brushed and washed by one or more of its
comrades, who performed the task by passing the limb
between the jaws and tongue, finishing by giving the
antennas a friendly wipe."
One day the explorers came across a tall tree whose
species it was impossible to determine, for, while the
leaves were undoubtedly of the fig order, its shape was
as little like a fig-tree as anything that could well be
imagined ; indeed, it far more resembled an elm. Further,
on looking upwards, the beholders saw that, though a mass
of foliage rose to the summit in a sort of broad mat, all the
outlying branches were shrivelled and dead.
" What tree do you call this ? " they demanded of the
guide. " I do not know," was the response. " But this"
pointing to the leaves, " is the ' murderer.' "
Bates examined the trunk carefully for a moment, then
exclaimed —
" Why, there are two trees here."
" That is true," replied the Indian. " This is a parasite.
226

THE 'MURDERER'
Do you not see its arms embracing the dead trunk ? "
And he pointed to the stem where, at regular intervals,
complete rings of wood encircled it all the way up.
During his long residence in South America, Bates was
enabled to make close observations of the " murderer," the
murdering liana, or Sipb matador, as this tree is variously
called. It is, as already stated, a parasite of the fig family ;
it springs up at the foot of the tree which is fated to be
its victim and gradually spreads, or flattens out, its stem,
till one side of the trunk looks as though a thick coat of
cement had been laid over it. In course of time, from either
side of this flattened-out stem, a shoot appears ; and these
growing round the trunk towards each other at length
meet, unite firmly, and form a tough ring. A little higher
up the same process is repeated; then again and again,
until the whole trunk is in the grip of a series of rings
which go on increasing in thickness till their parent stem
has risen above the tree, which gradually perishes through
exhaustion of sap.
When the time came for the two friends to separate,
Wallace crossed the river and went north to visit the Rio
Negro before returning home, while Bates, who depended
on the proceeds of the sale of specimens which he was
able to send to England from time to time, continued his
researches, turning back for a while, then going southwards,
up the stream of the Tapajos, an important tributary of
the Amazon.
His collections swelled by degrees to such proportions
that an army of bearers would have been required to carry
it ; and he was obliged to hire a large, two-masted boat,
easily manageable by a couple of men. The cabin he
227

FIRE-ANTS
fitted up as a laboratory; and thus he continued his
journey, walking along the bank by day, and sleeping
aboard at night.
This was certainly an ideal mode of getting through the
forest ; too good to last, in fact ; for, before many days,
patches of sand began to appear here and there along the
bank, and wherever these occurred, millions of " fire-ants "
swarmed. Not a square inch of ground was free from
them, and as their sting was rather worse than the prick
of a red-hot needle, the naturalist was soon forced to seek
refuge on the boat.
As the stream narrowed down they came to a village
inhabited by a few mulattos and Indians ; and while Bates
explored the forest round it, he allowed his two men to
seek recreation ashore. In the evening, when he returned,
he found one of them, a mulatto, exceedingly drunk and
insolent ; and, as the same thing happened on the follow
ing day, Bates intimated that it would be well for them to
part company, and engaged another mulatto, Cardozo by
name, from the village. The mandioc root, from which
tapioca and other domestic commodities are obtained,
grows here, and is in great favour among the negroes,
mulattos and zambos, for they distil from it a spirit almost
as potent as brandy ; and it was on this beverage that
Bates's man had been making merry.
A little higher up, the explorer learned that the river
would only be navigable for small craft, and so exchanged
his boat for a canoe at the next forest hamlet. During
the following few days he passed various encampments or
small villages, one of which he explored, telling the men
to meet him at sundown some distance farther up the
228

A DRUNKEN BOATMAN
the river. On rejoining them he found that Cardozo was
no better than his predecessor. The cargo had been badly
packed when the exchange of boats had been made, and
the mulatto had been instructed to rearrange it. This
young man's notion of loading a boat appeared to consist
in stowing everything forward, till the nose of the canoe
was almost in the water ; to get very drunk on the beloved
mandioc spirit ; and finally to enthrone himself on the
pile of ill-balanced cargo and sing or swear, alternating
this profitable employment by cuffing his inoffensive
mate, Jose, for daring to enter a mild protest.
The sight that awaited him almost made the unfortunate
Englishman tear his hair. The boat was at least ten feet
from the bank, and drifting, in spite of Jose's apparent
efforts to stop it, and neither threats nor prayers would
prevail on Cardozo to pull in, or to allow his companion to
do so; there was no one within call and no other boat
obtainable — and the almost priceless freight was liable to
capsize the canoe and sink at any moment.
Bates reflected that no act of his could well make
matters worse, and, with a slight shiver at the recollection
that there were alligators in the vicinity, he ran a few
yards along the bank ahead of the boat and then made a
desperate spring in the direction of it. By good luck he
landed lightly and easily in her middle, and, steadying
himself for an instant on Jose's shoulder, made a dash at
the refractory mulatto and dragged him from his exalted
position. The man fell on his back in the bottom of the
boat and made no attempt to rise again, and the other
two were left to manage the boat as they might. This
was not very difficult ; for, with the current running so
229

A LEAKY BOAT
fast, practically all they had to do was to keep in
mid-stream. But when they had gone a couple of miles or so, Bates,
who was sitting in the stern, became conscious of a cold
ness or dampness about his feet, and, looking down, he
saw through the gloom that water was running into the
canoe, and was already well over his ankles. Rousing
Jose, who was half asleep, he began to bale with the
excitement of a madman, while the other man endeavoured
to paddle in to shore.
There was still light enough left to show, in the first
place, that a bad leak had been sprung, rendering baling
about as effectual as taking a sieve to a pump ; and, in
the second, that the nearer bank which they had now
almost reached was so precipitous that it would be a
matter of impossibility to land.
The Englishman wasted no time in abusing his folly in
not having taken the boat ashore for the night, after
boarding her ; he signed swiftly to Jose to paddle for the
other bank, which, if overgrown with trees and shrubs, at
least lay low ; then set to work to find the leak, in case
there might be some hope of stopping it temporarily.
Very slowly the canoe headed across the stream ; and
meanwhile Bates had discovered the hole, which, for
tunately, was not larger than could be stopped by the
pressure of his palm ; and with his left hand thus engaged,
and his right occupied in baling with a tin can as though
life rather than freight were at stake, he at last saw him
self within a few feet of the bank. But even now his
troubles were not ended ; for the thicket at hand was so
dense that scarcely a cat could have penetrated it, and
230

A RESTLESS NIGHT
a possible landing-place could only be found by the
exercise of much patience and close searching. Without
removing his hand from the leak he completed, by
assiduous kicking, the work which cold water had begun
in restoring the amiable mulatto to sobriety, and shouted
to Jose to effect a landing as best he could. This was
done, and the boat having been made fast, Jose hurriedly
began to take the baggage as it was handed out to him
by the frightened and penitent Cardozo ; and in this way
crew and cargo were at length disembarked.
Then followed one of those wearisome nights too well
known to wayfarers in the South American forests, during
which heat, insects, and the ceaseless whirr and noise of
birds and beasts made sleep an impossibility ; and Bates
could only lie tossing on the marshy ground, wishing
mulattos and mandioc roots all at the bottom of the
Tapajos, and speculating drearily as to how much of his
collection was irretrievably ruined. But, fortunately, when
daylight came, it was found that no injury worth speak
ing of had been done to the little cargo, and that stopping
the hole was a mere matter of a hammer and nails, and
a bit of wood.
Before the end of the naturalist's sojourn in the selvas,
he had an opportunity of making some considerable study
of the turtle and his ways, and of the Indian method of
catching him.
While making a somewhat lengthy stay at an Indian
forest encampment, he and his men were taken by the
natives to a large pool to witness a big "turtle hunt."
Every Indian was armed with a bow and arrows, but the
arrows were of a kind that Bates had never seen or heard
231

A CURIOUS ARROW
of before; the head was of iron and was fitted into a
wooden peg that entered the tip of the arrow-shaft. This
peg seemed to be fastened to the shaft by a string thirty
or forty yards long, which was loosely wound round the
arrow. On arrival at the pool the sport began at once ; and now
the reason for such peculiar weapons became evident.
No sooner did a turtle show himself on the water than
one of the Indians shot at him. The arrow-head pierced
the tough shell and the turtle sank ; but, to his amazement,
Bates saw that the arrow was floating on the water.
Before he could get his inquiries answered, the shooter had
leapt into a canoe and paddled over to where the arrow
lay; then, seizing hold of it, he began to pull at it as
though a line of communication ran between it and the
turtle. This in fact was the case ; for, when the arrow
head enters the shell, the shock causes the peg to drop
out and so liberates the shaft, which is left floating on the
surface, the string rapidly uncoiling itself as the turtle
sinks. In about three hours over twenty turtles had thus been
shot. But this was only sport ; the business of catching
turtles was now about to begin.
Two Indians had got into their canoes, and, extending a
net between them, waited at one end of the pool ; while
the rest of the hunters spread themselves along the other
three sides, and, with long poles, began vigorously to beat
the matupa tufts that studded the swampy banks, with a
view to driving thetgame towards the net. This lasted for
close on two hours, and Bates was beginning to find the
sport monotonous when the word was given to haul in,
232

NETTING AN ALLIGATOR
Each of the Indians in the canoes threw out a coil of
rope to the men on the banks, and all pulled lustily, and
the Englishman stood by wondering at the extraordinary
weight of the net ; for the Indians— big, powerful men-
seemed to find their strength taxed to the utmost in
landing the catch.
Standing as near to the water's edge as the swamp
would allow, Bates leant over expectant as the net was
dragged ashore ; then sprang back with something very
like a cry of alarm. Forcing a passage through the
opening of the net, and negligently making — or waddling
— his way through the heap of turtles, was an immense
alligator !
The stolid Indians seemed to take no more notice of
this unlooked-for apparition than if it had been a stickle
back ; but the mulattos, with loud shrieks, fled as fast as
feet could go ; and, indeed, Bates was not unnaturally
tempted to do likewise, for he had not brought his gun
with him, and — well, " the better part of valour is discre
tion." But the sight of the unmoved Indians put him on
his mettle, and he looked round for a weapon. One lay
to his hand — a rough- hewn, water-sodden plank. Swing
ing this over his head, he brought it down with all his
might on the reptile's skull, and the hideous creature lay
dead on the mud.
But such encounters do not encourage a minute study
of the art of turtle-netting.

233

CHAPTER XX
AN ADVENTURE WITH A BUFFALO
The Ceylon forests — Sir Samuel Baker — The Asiatic buffalo — A
tiring day in the forest — A risky minor exploration — The "mud-
bath "• — The charge — The herd dispersed — A second charge, and
its unexpected issue — Buffaloes' notion of comradeship — Pursuing
the bull — Cutting off the retreat — A foolish venture — Bullet
proof ! — The last bullet — Baker's despair — Unlooked-for utility
of sixpences — The bull's last stand.
The Ceylon forests are free from many of the more dan
gerous wild beasts that inhabit those of India and Indo-
China ; and a sportsman, unless he happens to have read
Sir Samuel Baker's account of the island from the hunter's
point of view, might be inclined to turn away with con
tempt from the short and apparently uninteresting list
of the Ceylon fauna, comprising the elephant, panther,
monkey, buffalo, elk and various snakes.
But Sir Samuel's experiences during his life in Ceylon
would surely convince the most ardent seeker after hair
breadth escapes that he need not hunt long in the
Sinhalese forest without finding them.
It may perhaps be remembered that long years before
Baker became famous as an African explorer, his passion
for sport led him to take up his quarters at Newara Eliya,
in Ceylon, and that here, in course of time, he and his
brothers founded a small English colony.
23t

Fishing for Turtles, and Catching an Alligator
When an immense alligator appeared waddling amongst the turtles, the Mulattos
fled shrieking. But the stolid Indians were undisturbed. Bates soon killed it by a
blow on the head.

THE ASIATIC BUFFALO
The young men soon found that there need be no dearth
of big game ; for, if the elk and the elephant failed them,
there was still the buffalo.
Now, the buffalo of India and Ceylon is very unlike his
brother of Africa, except in point of size ; and still more
unlike the American bison. His hide, being almost hair
less and of a dirty dun-colour, gives him an unhealthy,
india-rubberlike look. He carries his head in a very
peculiar manner — his nose sticking out on a level with
his forehead, and his long, almost straight horns lying as
it were along his back. He is one of the very few animals
that show no fear at the approach of a tiger, and, indeed,
a wise tiger will not venture near him; from which it
may be seen that he is not an animal for the sportsman
to encounter at close quarters without very considerable
risk ; and on one occasion, Baker's adventure with one of
these ungainly beasts might well have ended in the
young traveller's death,
He and his brother Valentine (better known, subse
quently, as the famous Baker Pasha), after a wearying
and not very fruitful day's hunting, during which they
had dragged, pushed and lifted their ponies through
twenty miles of forest so thick that natives had been
forced to march ahead with bill-hooks to cut them a way
through the undergrowth — had at last come to a broad,
well-made path through the wood.
Tired of their previous snail's pace, the brothers now
mounted, and, leaving their coolies to follow with the
baggage, cantered forward in the direction of a village
that lay three miles beyond the fringe of the forest.
When the increasing light ahead betokened that they
235

THE MUD-BATH
were nearing the more open country, they pulled up and
dismounted to await the coming of those behind. After
tethering their ponies and resting for a spell under the
palm-trees, they were taken with the idea of exploring,
for an hour, that portion of the forest which lay to the
right of their path ; and, leaving the ponies as an in
dication to the coolies that they were not far away, they
set out.
Before proceeding any great distance, they reached a
moderately open space, in the centre of which was a large,
shallow pool or lake by which was a herd of buffaloes,
some drinking, others taking their mud-bath. This in
dulgence is by no means peculiar to the Ceylon buffalo.
The animal, having thrown himself on his side, shuffles or
wriggles round and round in the mud till he has hollowed
out a space big enough to contain his huge body, and
there he lies luxurious, steeped to the very eyes in mud.
It may be that the buffalo finds some special pleasure in
thus wallowing hog-Hke; or perhaps, and more prob
ably, he is methodically protecting himself against the
irritating or poisonous stings of insects.
At the noise made by the men in scrambling through
the brushwood the herd turned, collected, and sullenly
surveyed the interlopers. On these it now dawned for
the first time that they had done an exceedingly fool
hardy thing in not coming better armed ; each had noth
ing but a single-barrelled muzzle-loader, which, being
provided with a sling, was not in the way in riding or
leading the ponies. Their heavy breech-loaders were
with the baggage.
Each being ashamed to appear cowardly in the eyes of
236

THE CHARGE
the other, they refused to" turn back; and, unslinging
their guns, continued their work more slowly. At that
time they knew little, but from hearsay, of the ferocious
temper and invulnerable hide of the buffalo.
When there was but a bare twenty yards between them
and the herd, seven large bulls started forward at the trot,
not with the blind, senseless rush of the bison, head down
and tail erect, but with eyes open, and neck extended, in
a manner that suggested calculation and the obstinate
intention of destroying those who would dare to oppose
them. As the bulls came nearer, both hunters took aim at the
leader and fired.
At the double report the hulk of the herd galloped
away out of sight; and, as the little smoke-cloud dis
persed, the brothers could only see half-a-dozen bulls;
five of these had retreated to a safe distance to the
hunters' rear, and the sixth — the one at which they had
fired — was limping miserably along on three legs down to
the water's edge, his blade-bone shattered by the two
bullets. Congratulating themselves on so easy a victory, the two
young fellows were about to re-load at leisure, when, just
at the back of them, sounded a whirling, whizzing rush
that brought their hearts into their mouths. Throwing
a scared, hurried glance behind, they saw the largest bull
they had yet beheld, charging at full speed towards them.
There was no possible time in which to reload ; nor had
either a weapon heavy enough to fell the huge brute ;
neither was there a tree sufficiently near to provide a
means of escape. 237

A SPITEFUL BRUTE
At least one of them was entirely at the mercy of the
bull. Instinctively both leapt out of the line which the
animal was taking, and began to think of edging back
wards or sideways towards the nearest tree, for they dared
not turn their backs to the creature.
But, almost before they had recovered from the first
paralyzing grip and stupor of terror, to their utter amaze
ment the buffalo swept past them, ignoring them so
pointedly as to make both feel rather small and foolish ;
and, without varying his course, shot in a straight line
towards his wounded comrade, now at the brink of the
water. Then, while the Bakers were prepared to witness some
wonderful and touching exhibition of brotherly affection
between the bulls, they were still further thunderstruck
to see the charging monster lower his head and deliber
ately butt the unfortunate cripple clean off his feet into
the water.
" There's a spiteful brute ! " ejaculated Samuel Baker.
"Load up, and finish off the other poor beggar; then
come and back me up ; I'm going to have some sporb
with this fellow ; " and, hastily re-loading his gun, the
elder brother turned to pursue the intruder, which,
having vented his inexplicable rage on the wounded one,
was calmly trotting along the lake-shore towards the
denser part of the forest.
After a while the buffalo, perceiving that he was being
followed, slightly quickened his pace. Baker kept up the
chase for about half-a-mile ; then tried a long shot, and
immediately re-loaded. If wounded, the bull gave no sign
238

Ax Adventure with a Buffalo Bull
Baker and his brother, with unloaded rifles, were congratulating themselves, when
just behind ihey heard a whirling, whizzing rush. Looking round they saw the largest
bull they had yet beheld, charging them at full speed. But they were not his target.

PURSUING THE BULL
thereof, but still continued his way, and Baker fired again
with no better success than the first time. Loading once
more, he found to his chagrin that he had but two bullets
left ; the shadows were growing longer and longer, and
the buffalo seemed likely to escape the fate which Baker
vowed should be his, if only in revenge for the fright he
had given him.
The pool had now narrowed down to a rivulet which,
a little higher up, lost itself in the depths of the wood.
There was only one chance of success left to the hunter.
The stream curved considerably, and the buffalo was
obstinately following every one of its windings, instead of
proceeding in a straight line ; thus Baker could, by exert
ing his topmost speed, reach the point where the wood
thickened, and head the beast off in front. This he
succeeded in doing, and somewhat astonished the buffalo
by suddenly appearing fifteen yards ahead of him. Both
stopped and faced one another ; then, mindful of the short
ness of his ammunition, and of the risk to which his zeal
for sport was exposing him, Baker sought about to find a
vulnerable point. This was no easy task, for, with his
habit of throwing nose, forehead and neck into a hori
zontal line, the Asiatic buffalo naturally shields himself
from any shot that might reach the brain ; his chest and
throat seem proof against any amount of lead, and the
sportsman's only chance of inflicting a mortal wound is
by hitting him in the shoulder.
With careful aim Baker fired. The animal did not
move, though blood spurted from his chest.
" Now for the last bullet," said the hunter under his
breath ; and, not daring to take his eyes off his antagonist,
239

THE LAST BULLET
swiftly re-loaded, at the same time straining his ears
for a possible sound of his brother's footsteps near at
hand. The blood was now coursing freely down the bull's legs
and hoofs, but he appeared quite unconscious of that ; not
a muscle of his body seemed to move, and his head and
neck were as rigidly stretched as ever.
Once more the gun-shot rang out across the quiet lake
and echoed among the trees around it ; and the buffalo
still stood as before. Or, at least, not quite as before;
for, as though he had divined his tormentor's now defence
less condition, he lowered his head; slightly, it is true,
but sufficiently to give the hapless hunter a disconcerting
sight of his inflamed eyes and bristling horn-tips that
hitherto had been almost hidden.
" It's time I went," thought Baker ; for all the tales he
had heard from the cooHes of the implacable ferocity of
the creature were jostling themselves together unpleas
antly in his brain. And indeed his fears were far from
being groundless; for the fury of the buffalo, especially
when wounded, is unbounded ; and, if he should catch his
assailant, he will kick and gore and trample him, and
never leave him till he is certain that Hfe is extinct.
Yet, to run away — apart from its being scarcely con
sistent with the nature of such a man as the world knows
Sir Samuel Baker to have been — was not the easiest way
out of the difficulty ; for, if the stories of the coolies and
native hunters were correct, the moment he removed his
eyes from the bull or turned his back the animal would
charge. And still there was no sign of his brother. Putting his
240

BAKER'S DESPAIR
fingers to his mouth, Baker blew a shrill whistle— a signal
which Valentine would be certain to recognize.
But no sound came in answer.
Despairingly the unfortunate man took his gun by the
barrel and weighed it tentatively ; then shook his head ;
such a weapon was never intended for a poll-axe, and,
used as such, could do no more harm to his adversary than
to an elephant or a granite rock.
As a last resource he passed his hand over his various
pockets ; there was just the bare possibility that a stray
bullet might be in one of them.
But no such luck. His powder-flask, tantalizingly full,
was in one pocket ; a hunting-knife, as useless in such a
case as a toothpick, in another.
Involuntarily his finger and thumb sought a waistcoat
pocket. Then he gave a shout of delight that elicited an
answering bellow from his motionless foe ; and hurriedly
rammed down a charge of powder. He had found — not a
bullet, but half-a-dozen sixpences and a couple of two-anna
pieces, which he had set aside as tips for his coolies !
As though fearful lest his prey should escape him, the
bull now suddenly moved three paces nearer ; then stopped
again. Hastily Baker tore off a strip of his thin linen
shirt, and, wrapping the coins in a rouleau in it, extem
porized a very respectable slug. He had just loaded with
this when there was a noise behind as of one running ;
then a shout from his brother. At this the bull advanced
another pace.
Then came the crack of a gun near at hand; but a
sharp splash in the water beyond witnessed that Valentine
Baker had missed. And now, as though at last driven
16 241

THE BULL'S LAST STAND
beyond endurance, the buffalo gave a furious snort, and
again throwing back his head, broke into a sharp trot
which, before he reached the brothers, would assuredly
develop into a mad charge.
Now — or never — was the time to fire off this strange
bullet; and with the peculiar coolness that sometimes
comes to a man whose life hangs in the balance — almost
as frequently and naturally as the opposite fit of unreason
ing terror — Baker aimed as carefully and imperturbably as
though shooting at a target, and fired.
The bull fell with a crash, but, from his position,
both men seemed to know instinctively that he was but
stunned, and wisely turned to flee.
Looking back when they had run a few yards, they saw
that he was on his feet again, but unsteady, and rocking
from side to side.
" Look ; it's all over with him," said the younger man ;
and as he spoke the animal collapsed, and lay this time
unmistakably dead. The silver bullet had saved Samuel
Baker's life.

242

CHAPTER XXI
AMONG THE INDIANS AND ZAMBOS OF NICARAGUA
The forests of the Mosquito shore— The late Ephraim Squier— The
American railway survey — How to obtain cocoa-nuts — An
invasion by soldier crabs— A tropical thunder-storm— The
floating roof— An unexpected dinner — A stroll in the forest—
MtmzcmiUa /—Within an inch of death— The friendly Indians-
Hunting the manatee — Gun versus harpoon— Arrival at the
Zambo camp — Detained — Squier's plucky behaviour and clever
escape,
The Republic of Nicaragua, like other parts of Central
America that are washed by the Atlantic, is abundantly
covered with magnificent primeval forest, rich in logwood,
mahogany and other useful or costly timber, together with
all kinds of creepers and parasites, tree-ferns and orchids.
With the greater portion of the country thus occupied
by forest land, internal communication, except by means
of the rivers and lakes, must necessarily be difficult ; and,
even to this day, the Indian inhabitants continue to carry
heavy burdens of merchandise on their backs from one
side of the state to the other, though railways are now
either constructed, or being planned, from the Pacific to
the Atlantic shore.
A little more than half-a-century ago, the United
States Government, interested in the material resources
of the country, thought that Nicaragua might largely
243

THE NICARAGUAN FOREST
benefit if a railway were cut through this vast forest ; and
their charge" d'affaires at San Juan was instructed to make
an informal survey of the interior. The result of the survey
was not encouraging to the railway contractors ; but the
adventures of the United States' representative while
carrying out the task imposed upon him are full of
interest. The name of the man chosen for this work was Ephraim
Squier, a brilliant young journalist, who, under the pseu
donym of " Samuel Bard," was well known to the reading
public of a generation or two ago. From the Mosquito
shore of the Caribbean Sea he started inland, up the
Bluefields and Wawashaah Rivers, accompanied only by
his Zambo servant, Antonio, and a Poya Indian guide;
and in his voyage passed through nearly all quarters of
the great Nicaraguan forest.
At first the newness and wondrous beauty of his
surroundings made him forget all thought of business,
and he was well content to lounge at his ease in the boat's
stern, or to lie on the bank in the deep forest shade, listen
ing idly to the tales and legends of the country, of which
both his followers possessed a large and varied stock.
One afternoon, when they had landed for their siesta,
Antonio pointed to a cocoa-nut palm, about seventy feet
in height, and asked with a broad grin if the Sefior would
like a few nuts.
" Yes. But you're not man enough to get them from
that tree," was the reply.
" You shall see, Senor." And, having slung a bag over
his shoulder, the Zambo cut down a length of tough vine
which he bent round the tree, and soon twisted into a
244

GATHERING COCOA-NUTS
strong hoop, about three times the circumference of the
trunk; then, before his master could comprehend what
was happening, he slipped himself through the hoop as
far as his waist, and appeared actually to walk up the
tree ; and, after filling his bag, to walk down again just as
easily as he had made the ascent.
On examination, Squier found that, by planting the
soles of his bare feet firmly against the trunk, Antonio
had been able to maintain a position from which he could
not slip ; while, first with one hand, and then with the
other, he worked the hoop swiftly upwards, at the same
time taking a further step with each successive movement
of the hoop.
When the cocoa-nuts had been enjoyed, the three men
lay down to sleep, lulled by the lazy, soothing hum that is
one of the special features of the South and Central
American forests. All at once Squier awoke with a
"creepy-crawly" sensation the reverse of pleasant, and,
on rousing himself, found that his temporary camp had
been invaded by a formidable army of soldier crabs ; they
were all over his face, hands and clothes, and some had even
found a lodging in the loose-fitting tops of his high boots.
Thus effectually disturbed, the travellers speedily
returned to the boat and recommenced the journey, past
banks lined with mangroves— trees which are more or
less peculiar to lands liable to inundation. Their trunk
begins at a height of from four to eight feet above the
ground, and is supported by naked, wide-running, red
roots which give the tree somewhat the appearance of an
inverted candelabra. Generally the roots interlock, and it
is only possible to cross ground encumbered by them by
245

TROPICAL THUNDERSTORM
vigorous hacking ; even then progress would be at the
rate of about twenty feet per day.
Gradually these mangroves disappeared, and in their
stead, mahogany trees and gigantic ceibas, loaded with
parasite vines, rose on either bank. On the leafy boughs
roosted thousands of parrots and macaws, so brilhant that
— says Squier — " They looked like forgotten fragments of
a rainbow." The birds were almost invariably seen in
pairs, but now and then, one old male might be seen
perched gloomily alone, and looking around and below as
if meditating suicide.
One evening, when they had landed for camping, the
Indian, sniffing the air, said, " We must haul the boat well
up, Senor ; it will rain before morning."
" Will it be much ? " inquired the master, carelessly.
" If the Senor is wise, he will camp at least a hundred
yards from the bank," repHed the Indian youth, solemnly ;
and Antonio echoed the recommendation so earnestly that
Squier made no demur.
The natives had not erred in their counsel. Before
midnight the forest was as bright as day, illuminated by
sheet after sheet of lightning ; and the thunder shook the
ground on which the tent was pitched. Then began the
most alarming downpour of rain which the American had
ever had the fortune to witness. It was as though a con
tinuous and inexhaustible ocean were falling upon them
from overhead ; and by daybreak the bedraggled travellers
were toiling up an incline, slippery with wet clay and sod
den vegetation, in the hope of finding a firm pitch for the
tent ; for they had waked to find themselves almost under
water. 246

A PROLONGED DELUGE
Hour after hour passed, and still the storm showed no
sign of abating. The lightning and thunder, indeed,
ceased, but the rain fell as heavily as before, and the
wind rose till it became a terrible blast, strong enough to
uproot huge trees such as a team of fifty horses could
scarcely have stirred.
The day was spent in hurried excursions to and from
the boat, where, fortunately, the stores and ammunition
were well protected by tarpaulins; and in constructing
a more effectual shelter than the canvas tent, for the
guide had opined, with characteristic Indian indiffer
ence, that the rain would probably not leave off for a
month. It seemed as though this evil prognostication were to
be verified, for day followed day without the least sign of
a diminution of the flood. By the sixth day, matters
began to wear a very serious aspect ; stores were coming
to an end, and, if the deluge did not soon abate, there was
little but starvation before the unfortunate men ; for to
go back or onwards was impossible, with the river swollen
into a roaring torrent that would almost have carried an
Atlantic liner along with it.
But, on the eighth day the rain stopped, well-nigh as
suddenly as it had begun, and the sun shot out through
the clouds as though in haste to undo the work of the
tempest. The change of weather was welcome enough,
but some hours must pass before the hungry men would
be able to kill anything for food, and the larder was now
positively empty. Squier stood and watched the river as
it roared by, and was just speculating on the chance of
dragging out of it the moderately-fresh carcass of some
247

A FLOATING ROOF
edible bird or beast, when the Indian, jogging his elbow,
pointed dramatically to a curious-looking object, that
might have been either house or hay-stack, floating
rapidly towards them.
" Stand by with a boat-hook," said Squier briskly ; " we
may as well see if there's anything to eat there."
As the mysterious construction came nearer, it proved
to be the entire roof of a Zambo hut inverted, and from
its depths there came a sound exceedingly pleasant to the
ears of fasting men, nothing less than the famihar grunt
of a well-fed porker; while, mingling a shrill, angry treble
with the hog's bass, was a tame parrot in a wicker cage.
To secure this singular craft, and to seize and slay its
larger occupant, was but a brief task ; and, as pork is
unpalatable, eaten without bread or anything else, Squier
set off in search of some vegetables, leaving the servants
to flay, quarter and cook the pig.
After having been cooped up under damp canvas for
over a week, the young adventurer was glad of an
opportunity of stretching his legs; and, finding fairly
high-lying ground, proceeded to walk faster and farther
in search of the vegetables than he need have done, or
than was altogether wise, in a neighbourhood of which
he was totally ignorant. Wandering on in this manner,
careless alike of the flight of time or of the various
turns and twists which the flooded^ hollows or the under
growth forced him to take, he at last slackened his pace,
because want of food was making him faint. Then, for
the first time, it occurred to him that he must have been
walking for an hour or more, must have covered some
half-dozen miles, and was now as utterly out of his
248

' MANZANILLA ! '
bearings as if he had been dropped down, hap-hazard,
out of a balloon.
He obeyed his first instinct, which was to hunt for food,
and also his second — namely, to shout at the top of his
voice. Shouting and looking about him by turns, he at
length caught sight of a tree heavy with luscious fruit,
very much like the common red apple. He hurried
forward and, standing a-tiptoe, tried to reach the nearest
of these. As he did so, a dark shadow that might have
been jaguar or panther, came straight at him ; but th^n
there was a very human exclamation, his extended hand
was knocked down, and a powerful push sent him
sprawling, head over heels, fifteen feet from the tree.
Instinctively his hand sought the only weapon he had
with him — his revolver, and, young and athletic as he
was, he was no sooner on the ground than up again, and
taking aim at — Antonio.
" You ! " he cried in amazement, lowering the revolver.
" Where did you spring from, and — what's your game ? "
" Keep away from that tree, Senor," screamed the
Zambo, quivering as with intense fright. "That tree
means death."
" Ah ! How ? " ejaculated the American, smiling
incredulously. "Manzanilla!" ejaculated Antonio in a hoarse, awe
struck whisper.
Squier's jaw dropped and his whole figure stiffened
with horror. He had often heard of — but now saw for
the first time — the terrible manchineel tree, or Hippomane
mancinella, a tree so poisonous that people are said to
have died through merely breathing the air under its
249

A SCENE OF DESOLATION
shade, and the very dew or rain-drops from its leaves are
venomous. Even the sap of its twigs and shoots, if
dropped on the skin, burns like molten metal and causes
an ulcer difficult, and often impossible, to heal.
"You have saved my life, Antonio," he said at last,
taking the faithful fellow by the hand. "But how did
you manage to hear and answer my shouts so promptly ? "
" Why should I not hear, Senor, seeing I was close at
hand ? " replied the Zambo, with an air of astonishment.
And, looking through the trees whence Antonio had so
suddenly and providentially appeared, Squier saw the
gleam of the river and the smoke from his own fire. He
had walked almost in a complete circle, and was within
sixty yards of a dinner which he had believed to be at
least six miles away.
After waiting a couple of days for the force of the
torrent to subside somewhat, they embarked again, and
the boat bore them rapidly past a lamentable scene of
desolation. Gigantic trees were torn up by the roots,
some floating, others half submerged, others, again,
anchored to the banks by the vines and creepers that still
clung to them. On either shore wherever the deluge
was receding, the long grass was miserably flattened out
and laid level with the ground, and over it stalked half-
starved cranes and ibises, in quest of insects, fish or
worms. Late in the afternoon of the next day they came in
sight of an Indian forest hamlet where, said the guide,
they might be able to buy provisions ; and, raising his
voice, the Poya shouted in his own dialect to a group who
stood watching the new-comers. 250

FRIENDLY INDIANS
"They bid us land, Senor," he said, turning to his
employer. In solemn silence Squier was received by the Indians,
two of whom conducted him to a large wattled hut, while
the rest took charge of Antonio and the Poya. In the
hut sat a dignified old man, the chief of the tribe, who
tacitly bade the stranger welcome ; and the two sat and
stared at each other for full five minutes without the
exchange of a syllable. At the end of that time a man
entered, carrying a pot filled with some sweet liquid, and
was closely followed by two girls laden with baskets
containing cakes, meat, and a paste made from plantains,
known as bisbire.
Still observing silence, the old man formally tasted first
the drink and then the food, and proceeded to pass them
on to the guest.
When he had eaten and drunk, the lively young
American could tolerate the silence no longer, and raising
his voice, shouted in Spanish to the Poya to come and
interpret for him. The effect was a little surprising ; for
instantly the old man rose, and, smiling, said in very
good Spanish, "I was not aware that you could speak
other than English, Senor. You will please to consider
this poor hut at your service for as long as you may
choose to remain in these parts. Proper accommodation
shall also be found for your two servants."
The chief was as good as his word. Everything that
the hamlet — or camp, for it was little more — afforded was
to be had for the asking ; and the hospitable Indians even
went the length of hanging a drum outside the hut, which
Squier was to beat whenever he might require anything.
251

THE MANATEE
Thus several days were passed very pleasantly. The
Indians willingly guided the stranger wherever he wished
to go in the forest, and seemed horrified at the notion
of accepting any recompense for their various services.
They did not appear to understand the use of money, and
would only under pressure accept a few files and red
handkerchiefs, which they obviously coveted.
'' How do you do for sport here ? " asked Squier one
evening as he and the chief sat and smoked at the door
of the hut.
" Sport ? Ah ! The Senor should hunt the manatee."
" With pleasure. Where is the gentleman ? "
The old man gave a brief command to a youth who
stood near, and the latter immediately began to beat a
drum loudly and lengthily, and very soon the whole male
portion of the tribe had assembled. To them the chief
made a short speech (which he afterwards poHtely trans
lated to the visitors), ordering them to be ready at
midnight with their boats and harpoons to hunt the
manatee. This curious animal, more commonly known as
the sea-cow, at certain times of the year leaves its home
in the bays and creeks, and travels for many miles up the
Central American rivers.
At daybreak Antonio came to call his master, whom he
found oiling his gun and stocking his cartridge-belt,
at which preparations the Zambo seemed respectfully
amused, though he made no remark. Going down to
the river-bank they found the canoes ready and the men
impatient to be gone ; for the manatee feeds soon after
dawn. Squier and his gun — at which weapon the Indians
252

Hunting the Wanatee
At first the animal remained still, but the instant the rope tightened it started oft
wildly for the far bank.

GUN OR HARPOON
stared wonderingly and nervously — were placed in the
foremost boat, and the moment he was seated it gHded
away down stream like lightning. Then, while the
American was still meditating on the beauty of the
forest at this early hour — its tree-tops tinged with the
first light of the sun and its depths still veiled in misty
darkness — a man who had been crouching, harpoon in
hand, in the bows, sprang suddenly upright, and, without
preliminaries, hurled his weapon with great force ahead
of him ; then started to draw in the slack rope attached
to it. Peering forward as the boat slowed down, Squier
could just discern the animal lying motionless ; but, the
instant the rope tightened, it started off wildly for the far
bank in a diagonal direction.
Straightway a second canoe shot alongside the first,
and another harpoon buried its barb in the body of the
manatee, which, however, still seemed uninjured, and in
no way inclined to lessen its speed.
Feverishly anxious, not only for a shot at the obstinate
creature, but also to prove to the Indians the superiority
of powder and ball over more primitive weapons, the
American pushed himself forward and, as the manatee
slightly raised its head, fired. The head dropped again ;
the animal waxed suddenly inert, and the rising sun
showed the water to be stained with blood.
" That's what / call fetching 'em," shouted Squier.
"Haul up, boys, and let's have a look."
But, as the crew did not understand a word of this
remarkable utterance, they phlegmatically turned about
and paddled swiftly back to the camp, towing the game
behind them. 253

A KINDLY FAREWELL
On the rough landing-stage stood the old chief, and
Squier hastily sprang ashore to receive his congratula
tions. " This is where the bullet went in," he explained when
the huge creature was landed; and pointed to the spot
that he had aimed for. But — where was the bullet-hole ?
He stared helplessly, and then was fain to bite his lip
with mortification. There was the merest abrasion of the
skin where the bullet had struck, but no more wound
than if he had shot with a schoolboy's catapult ; for the
skin of these animals is only equalled in toughness by
that of the rhinoceros. Sad to relate, the blood had come
from the harpoon wounds ; and from these the manatee
had slowly died.
After having enjoyed a fortnight among these good,
simple souls, the young surveyor packed up his things
and ordered the boat to be got ready. This was the
signal for the whole tribe to come to his hut, laden with
offerings of provisions of every kind. The chief accom
panied him ceremoniously to the bank, bade him an
affectionate farewell, and extracted a solemn promise that
he would again visit the camp if he should return to that
part of the river.
The first night away from the Indians was a lonely and
restless one, and when at length the traveller seemed
likely to sleep, he was roused by the cries of a colony of
" howling " monkeys. In his irritation he fired off a
cartridge to scare them away, and, for the remainder of
the night, had good cause to regret his precipitation ; for
the report echoed through and through the forest till it
wakened every bird, beast and insect within a four-mile
254

THE ZAMBO CAMP
radius, and these screamed, howled, or chirped in hideous
discord until daylight.
During the next few days no noteworthy event took
place beyond the shooting of a few alligators and tapirs ;
but, one evening, just as the boat rounded a sharp bend,
Squier saw ahead of him on the right bank a group of
Zambos, some armed with spears, and others with old-
fashioned muskets; while a hurried glance through the
bamboos and fan-palms near at hand showed that he had
come upon a large village.
Leaving the two men in the boat, he sprang ashore and
walked leisurely away from the bank, anxious to discover
how far the "clearing" extended. Before he had gone
far he was accosted by a tall Zambo who appeared to be
the chief or headman of the village.
" Evenin', sir ; step this way, sir," were the words that
assailed his ears, spoken in the true Yankee tone.
Scarcely thinking what he did, he had followed this
ruffianly-looking individual nearly fifty yards before he
reflected that he was alone, and that Antonio and the
Poya were at the mercy of the choice collection at the
landing-stage. The Zambo, it may be remarked, is a
hybrid of negro and Indian blood, usually possessing all the
disinclination to hard work of both stocks, and combining
the native dishonesty of the former with the ingrained
cruelty of the latter.
Squier paused, half turned, and saw that his retreat to
the boat was effectually cut off by the crowd who followed
in his wake, and who, in a barbarous mixture of English,
Spanish and Indian, were loudly planning as to how best
they could get possession of the stranger's arms and goods.
255

PLUCKY BEHAVIOUR
Seeing Squier stop, the chief said sneeringly — " Give us
a drink, boss."
The American handed over his spirit-flask, which the
Zambo emptied at a draught. The next request was
flavoured with a still more insolent intonation. " We
want some gunpowder, boss ! "
Before Squier could reply, a shot was fired from the
boat, evidently to recall him, for, looking in that direction,
he could see that its occupants had pulled out into the
stream again, as though to keep the Zambos at a distance.
" You'll get no powder out of me," he said briefly, and
began slowly to retrace his steps.
The Zambo leader gave a sharp whistle and the crowd
began to close in. " Not so fast," he said. " You're our
prisoner ; " and immediately there arose an angry murmur
on all sides of — " Down with the white trash ! Kill the
white trash ! "
Squier stopped, short and sharp. It was neck or
nothing now. Whipping out his revolver he thrust the
muzzle within a few inches of the ringleader's head, and
shouted, " Up with your hands ; quick, or I fire ! "
Negro blood has never shown any power of resistance
in face of the resolution and contempt of danger that mark
the Anglo-Saxon race. Feebly and without hesitation,
the half-breed threw up his hands.
"Order these fellows to stand aside and drop all
weapons," was the next command, and it was obeyed with
alacrity. " Now walk one pace in front of me down to the boat,
with your hands up. If any man moves a finger to stop
me or my boat, I'll blow out your brains as sure as you're
256

A CLEVER ESCAPE
a living thief," said the American in a loud, clear voice.
" Move on sharp ! When I've counted three I shall fire.
One — two  "
"Three" was not waited for. The Zambo, with a
miserable whimper, shambled toward the boat, and Squier,
his face set in dogged determination, followed him, finger
on trigger, well knowing that at any moment a musket-ball
might bring him down. It was not surprising that these
few steps down to the jetty seemed to him the longest
walk he had ever taken.
Seeing their leader in this predicament the half-breeds
on the bank hesitated ; then one half fled and the others
levelled muskets or spears ; but an agonized scream from
their wretched chief implored them to drop their arms and
let the strangers go.
The quick-witted Poya had taken in the situation at a
glance and had pulled close in shore again. Squier sprang
into the boat, which, with one or two brisk strokes of the
Indian's paddle, immediately shot out into mid-stream.
But not before the keen American had dropped his
revolver and caught up his double-barrelled gun, with
which he took deliberate aim at the Zambo chief; who
yelled for mercy. Antonio imitated his master's example,
pointing a second gun at one of the ruffians who had
picked up his musket ; and in that position master and
man remained till the canoe had whirled round the next
bend, into the forest gloom — and safety.

17 257

CHAPTER XXII
IN EVANGELINE'S FOREST
The " forest primeval " of Nova Scotia — Lieutenant Hardy's hunting
expedition — Alone with a black bear — A sudden fright — The
falling tree — The solution of a mystery — The miners — " Shoot
ing " the Meductic Eapids — The explosion, and narrow escape of
the hunters — How to hunt the moose — How not to hunt him !
Lovers of Longfellow have no need to be told of the
exquisite beauty of the forest of Nova Scotia and New
Brunswick — the " forest primeval " of " Evangeline."
In addition to its associations, literary and artistic, it
is of great interest scientifically, as being one of the
remaining fragments of a cold-temperate forest-zone,
perhaps once equal in extent to the great sub-arctic belt
immediately above — which is three hundred miles wide,
and long enough to stretch from one side of North
America to the other. In the " Acadian " forests are to
be found nearly sixty varieties of trees, while the pre
valence of every kind of animal existing in North
America from the moose to the musk-rat, renders it as
attractive to the sportsman and the fur-trader as to the
botanist. Fifty years ago Lieutenant Campbell Hardy of the
Royal Artillery, with a brother officer, determined to trace
this forest to its northern limit, and incidentally to secure
258

A HUNTING EXPEDITION
specimens and study the habits of whatever animals might
come in their way ; and in course of a long furlough they
hunted over most of the ground between Halifax and the
hill-country north of New Brunswick. Their mode of
travelling varied ; occasionally they were able to proceed
for days at a time by canoe, but more frequently they
went on foot, under the guidance of two Indian lads
whose experience and skill in wood-craft were of even more
value to the travellers than their intimate knowledge of
the route.
At first they got only an occasional shot at a wolf or
black fox, or, more rarely still, a stray cariboo (or American
reindeer), the latter being regarded by the Indian guides
as a great prize ; for its flesh is equal to the finest British
venison, and its skin can be made up into clothing which
is absolutely impervious to wet or cold.
But one afternoon, when Hardy had lagged behind out
of sight of his companions for the purpose of making a
sketch, he unexpectedly found himself confronted by a
bear — not, indeed, the terrible " grizzly," but one almost
as large; the North American black bear, harmless
enough if left alone, but, if wounded, almost the equal of
the grizzly in ferocity. Unfortunately the lieutenant obeyed
his first instinct, which was to snatch up his gun and fire.
The bullet struck the bear in the ribs, but, beyond the
fact that a little stream of blood coursed down its side, it
appeared uninjured ; and, with an appalling snarl, lurched
forward in Hardy's direction.
The distance between the two was a bare thirty feet at
the moment of firing ; and when the bear had covered
half of that the man had not been able to reload his
259

AMERICAN BLACK BEAR
gun. And now, while Hardy still fumbled with the lock,
the creature was rearing, and in the act of striking out
with his formidable paw.
Hardy had many times been as near — and nearer — to
death as on this occasion, and he had a reputation in his
regiment for unswerving coolness in a critical situation
But at this moment, for some inexplicable reason, he
completely lost nerve at sight of the great beast comin»
open-mouthed at him, and of its hooked, chisel-edged
claws within an inch or two of his face ; and with a shout
he sprang on one side and started to run in the direction
taken by his party.
But, after a moment of surprise, the bear quickly
followed in pursuit, and the heavy crunching of feet over
the leaves almost at his very heels warned the fugitive
that his speed would be no match for that of his pursuer.
He gave another shout, which was answered by his
friends ; then, dropping his gun, and with a nimbleness
that at any other time would have seemed impossible to
him, he swarmed up the trunk of a young oak, and, before
his enemy could rear at him, was out of reach.
With a roar of anger at being thus baulked, the wounded
bear stood bolt upright, and, digging his claws into the
bark, prepared to climb after his prey.
Partly for his own convenience, and no doubt with
some glimmer of hope in his mind that a slender trunk
would baffle the bear's climbing abilities, Hardy had
chosen a tree not much bigger round than a man's thigh.
By the time he was able to look down, the bear was
making ready for his climb. Then, before the luckless
man had had leisure to reflect that, had he had the
260

THE FALLING TREE
presence of mind to sling his gun over his shoulder before
chmbing, he would now have had the enemy at his mercy,
there was a loud cracking noise, and Hardy felt himself
swaying through the air.
The bear, instead of mounting the tree, had pulled it
over, snapping it off close to the ground as though it had
been but a dry stick !
Finding his courage and coolness returning in face of
fresh danger, almost as suddenly as they had deserted
him, Hardy loosened his hold of the branch and pitched
lightly on his feet just as a heavy crash and a yell of pain
told that the tree had fallen and that the bear was under
neath. Springing to his gun the hunter hastily inserted
a cartridge, but, before he could fire, a lithe form slid past
him and one of his Indians was standing, knife in hand,
over the prostrate animal, which lay helpless, the tree-
trunk diagonally across its body. With one well-judged
stroke the redskin slew the ponderous creature, and coolly
remarked as he withdrew the blade, " This skin is very
valuable; your bullet would have spoilt it."
Hardy felt inclined to pinch himself to make sure that
he was not dreaming. Less than two minutes before he
had been climbing for his life; and now the bear lay
dead. There was nothing particularly wonderful in that,
seeing that the Indian could not have been much more
than a hundred yards away when his master shouted, but —
who ever heard before of a bear's breaking off a stout
healthy oak seven or eight inches in diameter?
Losing all interest in the death of the bear in the face
of such a phenomenal feat of strength, he went over to
inspect the stump. 261

THE BEAVER COUNTRY
Instead of the jagged, splintered surface he had
expected to see, he found that the stump was far smoother
than it would have been had the tree been hewn down ;
and that it ran up to a broken point not more than three
inches across.
Seeing him staring helplessly, the Indian paused in his
work of freeing the carcass, to point over his shoulder.
"We are near the river again," he said, "and have
reached the ' beaver country ' " ; and then wondered why
Hardy should burst into a shout of laughter.
A curious chance had led him to a tree gnawed round
by beavers to a narrow neck, which had been just strong
enough to support the weight of a man, but was by no
means equal to the added load of an infuriated bear ; and
no sooner had the brute started to climb than the slender
neck of wood left by the little animals had given way.
He was of course aware that beavers have been known to
fell even much larger trees in their search for the tender
bark on the young boughs which they could not otherwise
reach ; but in the fading light and in his haste to escape
the gentle attentions of the bear, he had noticed no trace
of the animals and was not aware of his nearness to the
river and their colony.
For the next week the travellers made their journey by
means of the light bark canoe, used by the Indians in
that region, and so had ample opportunity of watching
the industry and almost incredible ingenuity of the
beavers. One day they were startled at hearing gun-shots in the
distance ; then loud cries and the rattle of wagon-wheels,
coming nearer to them at every moment.
262

A Fortunate Choice
Hardy had wounded the black bear, and the furious animal pursued him so closely
that he had to swarm up a tree. The bear prepared to follow, but fortunately Hardy
unconsciously had selected a tree half gnawed through by beavers, and their combined
weight brought it down on the bear. Before it could recover, an Indian dispatched it
with his knife.

YANKEE MINERS
Seeing the Indians look to their weapons, the English
men did the same ; Hardy inquiring, " What are they ? "
"They are white men who seek gold yonder by the
rapids," said one of the lads.
Hardy now remembered that, for some time, strangers
from the States had been migrating north, owing to
extravagant reports as to the finding of gold in New
Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Gold certainly had been,
and still is, found, albeit in small quantities; but the
reputed " big find " that was bringing so many strangers
there turned out to be mica, and not gold at all.
The racket increased, and at last a wagon with half-a-
dozen armed men in it came rocking and rolling along at
break-neck speed.
The forest was too full of such desperadoes as these
seemed to be to make it advisable to run any risks, and
on their being hailed peremptorily from the bank by the
men in the cart, the hunters made the Indians cease
paddling, and prepared to duck, or, if necessary, to return
fire. But the strangers — Yankee adventurers — were in far
too good humour to want to fight ; they were clamorously
impatient to get to where the gold was,
"Is this the way to the Meductic Rapids, where the
gold-fields are ? " they shouted.
"It is the way to the Meductic Rapids," replied one
of the Indians dryly.
The men in the cart gave a cheer by way of thanks,
and, thundering on again, were soon out of sight.
Journeying in a very leisurely way and often landing,
the hunting-party came within sight of the rapids about
263

SHOOTING THE RAPIDS
five days after this episode, by which time they had ceased
to think about either gold or gold-diggers. As they came
near the head of the rapids, they could see through
the trees the figures of men engaged in some work about
the camp. The canoe was now in mid-stream, and the
river had so widened out here that it was difficult to hear
what was said from the bank.
Yet, as they made ready to shoot the rapids, they could
hear shouts of warning from men who, at sight of the
canoe, were beckoning them to stop and go ashore.
" Fools," said one of the Indians. " Do they think we
have shot the rapids so many hundred times to be afraid
of them now ? "
Hardy and his friend also were too used by now to
gliding merrily down an inclined plane of water to think
of such an enterprise as dangerous; yet, as they began
the descent, both had time to notice the evident terror
of those on the left bank. Some bawled themselves
hoarse; others wrung their hands and looked skywards;
others — as though unable to look on what they con
ceived would be certain destruction — were covering their
faces with their hands.
" What on earth do those cockney New Yorkers think
there is to be frightened of ? " shouted Hardy, trying
laughingly to make his voice heard above the roar of the
torrent. But, before anyone could hear or reply, and
before their boat could reach the lower plane of the water,
a report like that of a battery of artillery echoed through
the forest for miles, and the bank on their right seemed to
be lifting itself bodily ; while between them and the bank
a hail of masses of rock and clods of earth splashed in the
264

AN EXPLOSION
water, some so close to the canoe that it was almost
swamped. " Pull in to the left bank," said Hardy to the terrified
Indians, and in a minute the boat, which had not yet lost
the impetus from its swift descent, shot under the bushes
close to where some of the gold-seekers were standing.
" We tried to warn you," they shouted, as the drenched
hunters scrambled ashore.
" What's going on across the river ? " demanded Hardy.
" Blasting. I reckon you had a narrow escape."
The speaker was one of the men whom they had seen
in the cart a few days previously, and he proceeded
to explain that further signs of the presence of gold
had just been discovered on the other bank, but that
operations could not begin till after the removal of a
huge mass of rock which defied picks and shovels.
For the next few days the younger men took up
their quarters at the forest-camp ; but they saw nothing
further of the great gold discovery ; and when one of the
Indians reported the finding of a moose-trail, they very
readily prepared to follow it.
There are two methods of hunting the moose, or great
American deer; (1) "calling" — that is, by imitating on
a trumpet made of birch-bark the cry of the female;
(2) "creeping" — or tracking the animal patiently, mile
after mile through the forest, till the hunter is within
gun-shot of him. The former method is usually practised
during the autumn, when the animals are pairing ; and
it was this which the Englishmen were now about to
pursue. The baggage having been once more packed up, it was
265

GOING CALLING'
returned to the canoe, which, under the charge of one
of the Indians, was to proceed to a point some two
days' journey higher up the river, which the hunters
would reach by means of a path known to the second
Indian. When all was ready, one of the American miners who
was invariably loud in vaunting his many accomphsh-
ments and wide knowledge of hunting, strolled up to
them. " Going ' calling ' are you ? I used to be about as good
as the next man at that," he remarked. " Lend us your
trumpet," he continued, at the same time snatching the
instrument from the hand of the Indian, and uncere
moniously rejoining a couple of his friends who were
standing some distance away.
"This is how it's done, boys," he said, and, putting
the trumpet to his mouth, gave an exceedingly good
imitation of the cry of the female. But here his
knowledge of moose-hunting apparently ended ; for, not
content with one or two calls, the melodious soul went
on calmly blowing, till at last Hardy impatiently told
the Indian to go and fetch the instrument.
The young guide's eye sparkled mischievously. He
was still unable to grasp the reason for the mysterious
explosion on the day of their arrival at the camp, and
persisted in believing that the miners had been guided by
sinister intentions towards him personally ; and here was
a chance of revenge.
'' Let the white warrior have patience," he said in a low
voice. " The pale-face yonder shall learn that only a wise
man should try to call the moose." 266

HUNTING THE MOOSE
The words were scarcely out of the Indian's mouth when
there was a clatter and a rustle among the trees near
where the miners were standing, and a long, awkward-
looking, grey-brown animal charged through the bushes
in the direction of the " caller."
The two bystanders were unarmed, and, with a warning
shout to their friend, sprang aside to avoid the charge ;
but the gentleman with the trumpet was too deafened by
the noise he was making, or else too taken up by this
lengthy exhibition of his skill, to hear the approach of
the animal.
With a snort of indignation the moose lowered his head,
and, as he did so, the trumpeter, now realizing that some
thing was wrong, turned to look round. But that it was
a matter of life and death, the man's position and state
of terror were indescribably ludicrous. So taken aback
was he at his efforts being attended by such unlooked-for
success that, at sight of the threatening antlers, he turned
deadly pale, and, with a scream of horror, fell flat on his
back. This was just what the hunters were waiting for ;
for hitherto no one had dared to fire for fear of hitting the
wrong mark. But now, before the moose could make up
his mind whether to trample the Yankee to death, to flee,
or to run amok through the camp, both the Englishmen
fired, and the creature fell dead.
" I should give up ' calling ' and stick to mining if I were
you," said Hardy, as he came up to relieve the discomfited
Yankee of the trumpet ; and as the miner did not offer to
accompany the hunters any further on their expedition,
it may be presumed that he had seen enough of the
sport. 267

CHAPTER XXIII
WITH THE WILD BEASTS OF THE SIAMESE FORESTS
Henri Mouhot the French scientist — Journey through the forests of
the Me Kong basin — A Siamese forest and its wild animals —
The monkeys and the crocodile — Travelling by bullock- wagon
— Spiders, mosquitoes, and leeches — A more terrible foe — The
mysterious gun-report — The tiger — Warned to proceed no further
— Mouhot's perseverance — What the ants had done — The river
at last — The mission station — The wild tribes of the Upper Me
Kong district— Hunting the rhinoceros — Elephants in the path.
Although the great scientist, Henri Mouhot, was a
Frenchman, his marriage with an Englishwoman, his
close association with our own Geographical Society, and
his many warm friendships among Englishmen, made his
tragic death in 1861 seem almost as great a loss to our
country as to France. Probably the achievement in con
nection with which his name will best be remembered is
his exploration, in 1859, of the basin of the Me Kong River
which forms the boundary between Siam and Annam;
and, from the journals which he kept, the Western world
was able to learn much concerning the forests of Cambodia,
Siam and Annam, which till then was known only in a
fragmentary way through the writings of a few French
missionaries. The Me Kong is so thickly overhung and shut in by
forest-growth, and so ill-fed by its tributaries, which are,
268

A SIAMESE FOREST
more often than not, choked by uprooted timber, that for
miles together it is unnavigable ; and it was only for a
few stretches that Mouhot could pursue his journey by
boat. The Indo-Chinese forests swarm with animal life to a
greater extent than most of those of America and Africa ;
and crocodiles, rhinoceroses, tigers, boars, buffaloes and
monkeys soon became such common objects as scarcely to
attract the traveller's notice ; and scorpions, leeches, and
mosquitos would have to be reckoned by the million.
The monkeys Mouhot found more intelligent and mis
chievous than any he had seen in other parts of Asia, and,
in the early stages of the journey he took the opportunity
of making a pretty careful study of their habits. One
day as, after passing through an interminable stretch of
shadeless jungle on either bank, the boat suddenly glided
into a dark tunnel of overhanging foliage, the explorer
made his boatmen rest awhile, for the heat had been
terrific and the new scene offered not only shelter from
the sun but a fresh field for observation.
Overhead, above the whir of insects and the chirp of
birds, sounded the incessant gabble of a large family of
long-tailed monkeys ; and, judging from the warning
nudges and nods, and the outstretched arms pointing
downwards, a few yards astern of the boat, it seemed
probable that a plot of some kind was being hatched.
Turning round to see what could thus engage the atten
tion ofthe noisy little animals, Mouhot noticed, protruding
from the water's surface, what at first sight seemed to be
a cleft stake, but, on closer examination, was seen to be
the jaws of a crocodile, patiently open to admit anything
269

MONKEYS AND CROCODILE
that might pass that way. Glancing up again at the
talkative occupants of the trees, he perceived that a score
of them had now assembled immediately over the somno
lent reptile, and were forming, by means of arms, bodies,
and tails, a living chain that was to extend from the bough
on which they had been perching, down to within two or
three feet of the terrible jaws below.
At length one, more venturesome or more agile than
his fellows, climbed gaily down the chain from the branch,
and, watching his opportunity, struck the crocodile a sharp
blow across the mouth, and was out of his reach before
the ungainly beast could make reprisals. In a few
moments down came the monkey again and repeated his
mischievous trick ; and this continued, at intervals, for
nearly half-an hour, the reptile growing angrier — and
more wary — at every onslaught ; and sometimes the great
jaws came together so suddenly that the foolhardy monkey
barely escaped. But the joker joked once too often; all
at once there was a gruesome snap, a scream of agony,
and the crocodile and his prey disappeared below the
surface. Instantly the forest echoed with such dismal
howls and moans and shrieks from the victim's brethren,
who were hastily dispersing, that Mouhot, rather sick
ened by what he had seen, signalled to the men to row
on. But a few minutes later he heard the chattering
again, and, turning to look, he beheld the crocodile in
his former position, and the string of monkeys engaged
precisely as they had been before the tragedy.
A little higher up the river the traveller learned that
further progress by boat would be impossible ; but the
inhabitants of the hamlet where he had come to a stop
270

FOREST ENEMIES
showed him a cross-country path through the forest wide
enough to admit of the passage of an ox-wagon ; and in
this conveyance he covered the remainder of the journey.
The heat during the next few days was unendurable
to a European; and the nights were worse, for t,Vre was
not a breath of air, and but Httle chance of excluding the
swarms of spiders and mosquitoes that tormented the
sleeper. Then came a couple of days' rain which, despite
the inconvenience of its torrents, and the accompanying
danger from lightning and fever, was a merciful relief after
the fierce sunrays against which only a few of the most
thickly foliaged trees were any shield.
On the day on which the rain ceased Mouhot, while
strolling by the side of the wagon, became conscious of
sharp, pricking pains about his wrists and arms, and these
soon extended over his whole body, till he felt as though
red-hot needles were being stuck into him. On examin
ation, he found that his limbs were covered by hundreds
of small leeches, and that, in several places, his under
clothing was soaked with blood. He plucked off the
leeches, and turned to take from under a heap of luggage
in the wagon, a valise which contained some medicines,
his books, and his maps. He had no sooner extricated
this than he found that one side of it was almost devoured
by ants; and, worse still, the busy creatures had made
away with a book or two and all the maps!
But more terrible enemies than these were at hand.
On the very next morning Mouhot had strayed a short
distance from the path, and was about to stoop to gather
some botanical specimens when his attention was attracted
to what appeared to be the stem of some unfamiliar tree.
271

A TERRIBLE FOE
He paused, and cast his eyes upwards to look at its
branches; and as he did so the trunk began to sway
towards him. It was a python, twenty feet in length,
and the girth of a man's thigh, suspended by its tail from
a cross-running branch, waiting for whatever prey might
come along. At first the traveller stood still, giddy with
horror, like a man in a nightmare, fascinated by the slow
movement of the serpent's head towards him.
But, the momentary sickening feeling of terror over
come, he sprang back a couple of paces, and with hands
that were somewhat tremulous, levelled his gun at the
reptile and fired ; and the dismal whistle of the charge
through the leaves told him that he had missed
Luckily he was one of those men whose courage and
coolness increase in face of serious danger ; for the python,
irritated rather than frightened by the report, now darted
straight at him. Taking more careful aim, he fired his
second barrel, and the serpent fell heavily to the ground,
its skull blown to pieces. Before he could examine his
victim or reload his gun, he was startled by the crack of
a rifle scarcely more than sixty yards away.
The Frenchman stared round him in astonishment ; no
one, so far as he knew, was within miles of him, except his
ox-drivers and guides, and they were all now in sight,
whereas the report came from ahead of him.
With more curiosity than discretion he hurried forward,
till the cries of a man, mingled with the angry snarls of
some savage beast, made him pause, listen, and look about
him ; and there, within less than a stone's throw of him,
he saw a man struggling in the grip of a monstrous
tiger. 272

grv^'^f.

A Terrible Foe
On looking up Mouhot saw that what he had taken tor a branch was a python twenty feet
long. Paralyzed at first, he recovered sufficiently to spring back two paces, and then fired.

A NARROW ESCAPE
If the sight of the python had been terrorizing, this was
enough to freeze the very blood in his veins. His gun was
not loaded, and, even if it had been, he was quite as likely,
in his trepidation, to slay the man as the brute.
Yet the victim, poor wretch, had better, a thousand
times, meet a merciful death from a bullet than be torn to
pieces by an infuriated tiger. And so, quivering in every
limb, Mouhot loaded again ; but, before he could take aim,
an extraordinary thing happened. The tiger gave a
lurch, groaned despairingly, and then, rolling several feet
away from his prey, lay motionless ; while the prostrate
man staggered to his feet, his face, hands and clothes
bathed in blood.
Mouhot rushed forward to render what assistance he
could, but the man's injuries seemed only skin-deep, and,
coolly picking up his long gun, he pointed with pride to
the tiger, dead and soaking in blood.
" How did it happen ? " asked the astonished
Frenchman, of his new acquaintance, a young native
hunter. " I was in that tree," answered the young man, pointing
to a bough nine feet from the ground, "waiting for him.
I have waited for him for many weeks. As he came up,
I fired — as you see. But a tiger can spring even when he
is almost dead ; and never is he so dangerous as when
he knows himself to be mortally wounded. He sprang at
me before I could dodge him, or climb higher up the tree,
and we fell together — I lying so that I could not reach
my knife. All I could do was to use my hands as far as
possible and wait till his death agony was over. But
that's nothing, I have had far narrower escapes."
18 273

SINISTER PROPHECIES
They returned to the wagon, and, when his wounds
were dressed, the native inquired whither the traveller
was bound.
" For the country of the Stiens and the Laotians, to see
the upper course of the river," was the reply.
The man laughed incredulously,
" You will never reach it, and, for your own sake, I
pray you to go back. You cannot find your way alone,
and no one will accompany you into the Stien forests.
Before you have travelled four days farther you will
have jungle fever ; and, if you escape that, you will
soon find yourself in the hands of the Stiens, who are
the most inhuman savages, and have no mercy on a
stranger." Now this was exactly the same tale that Mouhot had
already heard before he left Cambodia ; but, true or
not, he was disinclined to give ear to it; and, finding
that his men were still willing to accompany him, he
pressed on his way through the jungles and the forest-
marshes. The sinister prophecies were fulfilled all too soon,
for, at the end of five days' hard travelling, during
which he covered barely sixty miles, two of the wagon
men were seized with fever. Mouhot had them placed
inside the wagon, tended them himself — and still pressed
on. Perhaps it was madness, but madness of a sort which
has often resulted in discoveries that would never have
been made by explorers of the more wise and prudent
sort. Day succeeded day in ghastly monotony, and as for the
274

THE MISSION STATION
nights, the only variety was that, while some were so
suffocatingly hot that the mere sight of the fires which
had to be lit to scare away the wild beasts was torture,
others were made miserable by a steady downpour of rain,
during which Mouhot sat and shivered in spite of his
blankets, and speculated as to the chance of his waking in
the same burning fever from which he was patiently try
ing to nurse his two invalids. And now he had reason
to repent his carelessness in not having taken greater
precautions against the all-devouring ants; for the
wagon was past the point where the guides' informa
tion ceased; and the rough charts, on which at least
some measure of reliance might have been placed, were
all destroyed.
But, one day, just when his very despondency was
threatening to bring on the fever against which he had
struggled so bravely, one of the wagoners cried out to
him in mingled joy and astonishment ; and, peering from
under the tilt, he saw that they were approaching a
clearing, some two hundred and fifty yards square, on the
farther side of which was a large bamboo house ; and near
it, unless he was much deceived, ran a curve of the river
which he had sought so long and so patiently.
Leaping from the cart with the enthusiasm of a boy, he
ran breathlessly across the fresh, dewy turf, and, as he
drew near to the house, a white-haired European came
out and bade him welcome — in his own tongue ! The
journey was ended at last ; the river which flowed near
his feet was the Me Kong ; the old man was the celebrated
missionary hero, Father Gilloux ; and the bamboo house
was the head-quarters of the French Jesuit mission, the
27s

WILD TRIBES
very existence of which Mouhot had heard questioned,
and even denied in Cambodia.
In this hospitable dwelling he remained for three months ;
and, during that time, made acquaintance with all the
tribes of that part of the forest — Shans, Stiens, Laotians,
etc. As to their ferocity, rumour had, as usual, lied; for
Mouhot found them simple, cheery, timid and even gentle ;
and subsequent travellers confirm what he says of them.
The wandering Annamites whom he met with from time
to time were much braver, and exceedingly quick and
clever ; but hardy Hars, expert thieves, and unspeakably
filthy in their habits, preferring, for instance, a meal of
rotten fish or putrid dog to any other.
One day, shortly before he left the missionaries, a
converted Laotian chief came to invite him to see a
rhinoceros hunt ; and, curious to see how these timid and
inexpert people, who seemed scarcely to know the use of
firearms, would face so terrible a foe, the Frenchman
gladly accompanied him.
At some distance from the house they were met by a
dozen tribesmen who were awaiting their chief, each
man armed with a couple of spears nine feet in length.
A short walk brought the hunting-party to the spot
where the savage beast was most likely to be sighted,
and here all lay in waiting till, after a while, a heavy,
lumbering movement among the bamboos and hard
wood trees denoted the near presence of an animal of
great size.
Immediately aU the natives sprang from their hiding-
place, raising a deafening yell, which, it was supposed,
276

A RHINOCEROS HUNT
would attract the attention of the beast. It did ; for, in
less than a minute, the canes and bushes parted, and out
came a rhinoceros, which, in point of size and colour,
looked like a short-legged elephant.
At sight of the hunters he stopped, dubious, and
seemed inclined to turn back. To irritate him, one of the
spearmen ran a few steps towards him and threw his
weapon, which, although it hit him, was only intended as
a hint that he should come nearer. This he now lost no
time in doing, accompanying his movements with an
angry, coughing grunt ; and the Frenchman, having but
little faith either in the valour of his companions, or in
the efficiency of their weapons, cocked his gun and sought
a vulnerable point for which to aim.
But, when the beast was within twenty yards of the
group, the chief started slowly and coolly to meet him.
At sight of such temerity the rhinoceros increased his
speed and suddenly charged open-mouthed at the
advancing foe ; while Mouhot, almost despairing of the
native's safety, began to hurry round on the chance of
being able to get in a shot which the chiefs body would
not intercept.
But the Laotian continued his pace unconcernedly, till
he came within reach of the animal, when, with a sudden,
vigorous twist, he thrust the spear-head straight down its
throat, and, leaving it there, walked back to his com
panions with as little excitement or haste as if he had
merely driven a golf ball.
With a fearful roar the rhinoceros advanced another
pace or two ; then rolled over on its side, gasping, groan-
277

ELEPHANTS IN THE PATH
ing and vomiting blood ; and, before Mouhot could send
a bullet to put the poor brute out of its misery, it was
dead. The return journey was destined to be free of the
vexations and sufferings of the outward march; and,
except that he killed a leopard just as it was in the act of
attacking two of his men who lay asleep, Mouhot had few
exciting experiences to mark it.
Father Gilloux drew out a chart for his compatriot,
provided him with additional and reliable guides, and
himself accompanied him for some few miles on the way.
Then the time for leave-taking, which both men had
dreaded, came at length. As they stood shaking hands
for the last time, there suddenly sounded a clatter and a
long series of thuds, like the stampede of a thousand oxen,
and, right across the path which the wagon was to take,
stood a group of nine elephants — some staring in simple
wonder, others rocking and quivering restlessly, and one
old bull trumpeting in a threatening fashion.
Mouhot dropped the priest's hand and was taking care
ful aim at the formidable beast when his gun-barrel was
grasped firmly and pulled downwards by the old
missionary, who said, with an apologetic bow, "You
cannot shoot nine elephants at once, my friend."
" Cest juste," admitted Mouhot, somewhat peevishly,
" mais  "
" Have patience," said the good father, smiling. " Wait
— now look ! "
He pointed to the little herd which, to his companion's
surprise, were slowly moving off again into the depths of
the bush. 278

COOLNESS AND PATIENCE
" Had you killed one of them," said Gilloux, " the rest
would inevitably have trampled us to death. Left alone,
our elephants would not even harm a child."
And Mouhot was forced to admit that even an elephant-
gun of the most perfect type might be a poor defence, in
comparison with a Httle judgment, coolness and patience.

279

CHAPTER XXIV
WITH GRANT IN EAST AFRICA
The Speke and Grant expedition, 1860-62— Colonel James Augustus
Grant — A five months' separation — Grant as village doctor —
Getting the porters together — Ordered to pay a special "visit" —
Grant's refusal — The sudden attack in the forest — An unwilling
guest — The mob — Restoration of part of the baggage — The king's
attitude towards the strangers — Return of some of the deserters
— Grant saves six lives — A message from Speke — The captain's
determination — The price of freedom — The departure, and
behaviour of the gun-men — Detained again — Another message
from Speke.
Just as Speke's name and fame become, for the moment,
eclipsed by the stronger personality and greater genius of
Burton whenever we find the two renowned explorers act
ing in concert, so the name of John Augustus Grant —
Speke's voluntary lieutenant in several of his African
expeditions — is too often allowed to slip into the back
ground, overshadowed by that of his more popular com
panion. Yet this courageous Scotch soldier and traveller
could vie in tact, resourcefulness and all the other qualities
which go to make a successful explorer, with many of the
first-rank adventurers of his and our day; and it is
perhaps only his own exceptional modesty and his self-
effacing adoration of Captain Speke that render him less-
known to-day than that hero himself. For his conduct at
280

A VILLAGE DOCTOR
the relief of Lucknow is sufficient proof of his title to
military honours, and, by Speke's own declaration, his
expedition of 1860-62 might have fared ill without the
co-operation of Colonel (then Captain) Grant.
The two friends had to separate for a time at a village
in what is now called German East Africa, on the border
line between desert and forest. In this neighbourhood
Captain Grant remained from May to September, 1861, in
charge of the baggage, for the melancholy reason that no
one could be got to carry it ; while his companion, with a
few trustworthy blacks, marched on towards Uganda.
Believing that all the stimulus that the negroes
required to make them enter his service was confidence
in him, the captain endeavoured to throw himself heartily
into the doings and daily life of the natives ; at least he
would be improving his knowledge of their language and
customs. And so, month after month, he laboured hard
for popularity; bestowed presents, wisely or unwisely
taught the use of the gun to some of them, and, in spite
of the jealousy of the witch-doctors, prevailed on invalids
to come to his medicine-chest for remedies. The last
measure was one of simple humanity, for he found that
the very mildest local cure for the most trifling headache
was to slash the temples with a sharp knife and rub
charcoal into the wounds.
By September, the gratuitous quinine, rhubarb, and
iodine had so far softened the hearts or braced the courage
of the natives that, when Grant made his periodical appeal
for porters, they were forthcoming, and at last it really
looked as if he was to rejoin his friend ; and on a bright
morning the captain stood at the door of his hut waiting
281

ENLISTING PORTERS
to distribute the burdens. But, of the seventy odd men
whom he had enrolled, about thirty put in an appearance ;
and many of these with the sole object of showing cause
why they could not accompany him. One man said that
his wife was ill. He was a confirmed bachelor. Another
that his mother objected to his going ; an excuse that did
credit to his inventive powers, seeing that he was border
ing on sixty, and had no parents. Another lot of objectors
said that the price offered was not high enough; they
would go if triple wages were given them.
In despair Grant turned to some of the unattached
bystanders, one of whom expressed his willingness to go —
then ran away, shrieking with terror because the captain
wrote his name down ! But, with everything packed and
ready, Grant was determined not to be put off; he
harangued, threatened, pleaded, until he had enlisted
fifty-six men, and with these he hastened away into the
forest before they could be dissuaded by their friends.
By the third day of the march the forest had become
so dense that Grant drew his men into Indian file, a pro
ceeding which served the double purpose of preventing
unobserved desertion, and of enabling the cortege to keep
something of a straight line.
That evening, while they were encamped, half-a-dozen
strange natives were brought to the leader, claiming to be
ambassadors from a neighbouring king, who, hearing that
the white stranger had left the village, had sent them to
beg the latter to pay a visit to him without delay. This
was so palpable a ruse to obtain the presents of which
white men were known to be lavish, that Grant refused to
rive ear to the invitation. He had not spent four months
s 282

A THREATENING MESSAGE
in collecting men to carry the baggage, to be robbed of
the whole, and perhaps detained for a year or so into the
bargain, by a chief whom he had not come to see.
Very crestfallen, the ambassadors withdrew; but by
daybreak they were back again, reinforced by a couple of
dozen warriors. This time there was no disguise about
the message.
" If you don't come it will be the worse for you," was
its purport.
Grant pointed, with more pride than he was justified in
feeling, to his gun-men, and showed that he also was well-
armed. " Can you stop men who could kill the lot of you ? " he
asked, laughingly.
The soldiers looked askance ; reflected that, even in
numbers, the strangers had the advantage, and suddenly
scampered away, leaving the captain to make his prepara
tions for departure, which he did with all speed ; for, if
the soldiers of the covetous king always moved with this
rapidity, it would be possible to bring an army down on
him within a few hours. As a fact, there is a marked
difference between the negro of the forest and his
brother of the town, village, or desert ; whereas the latter
is sluggish, in most cases timid and dull-witted, the
former is active in the extreme, more indifferent to
hunger, thirst or fatigue, and more crafty and resource
ful in all his dealings. For the forest, like the sea or
the desert or the mountain region, must have its special
influence on the character of those whose lives are bound
up with it ; and Grant knew by experience that the men
whom he had brought with him — with the exception of
283

A SUDDEN ATTACK
the one or two who were of forest blood— would never
withstand a systematic attack.
Urging the bearers forward, the captain had covered
nearly seven miles of the thicket by mid-day, and was
about to call a halt, when mysterious cries were heard
among the trees. The porters stopped of their own
accord, and Grant, who had been walking at the end of
the column, was making his way to the front when the
isolated cries from those in concealment became general
howls, and a body of yelling blacks, two hundred strong,
sprang into the path with the agility of cats. Grant
pulled out his revolver, and planted his back against a
tree. But there seemed no need for this precaution, for
the whole body, instead of attacking, coiled itself in a
huge loop round the column from front to rear ; then, at
a shout from those at the head of the line, all went
dancing off in a follow-my-leader style up the path
which Grant had intended taking.
But while he was concluding that he must have
interrupted the autumn manoeuvres of some ambitious
mihtary tribe, of whose existence he had, till now, been
ignorant, the regiment turned again, dashed among the
trees and was lost for a moment, only to reappear and
once more surround the panic-stricken porters, with
assegais poised and knives brandished. The captain
discreetly slipped his weapon into his pocket again;
finesse and fair words would avail him better ; for, among
the new-comers, he had recognized the ambassadors of
the night before. With one more shout the intruders
broke the line and began to despoil the porters of their
loads. These, whose one anxiety was to get away, made
284

A PREDATORY MONARCH
little demur, dropping their bundles with shrieks and
moans, dodging through the enemy wherever there was
space, and making off into the thicket. There was one
notable exception to this epidemic of cowardice; one of
the few gun-men on whom the leader had placed the
least reliance had drawn three of the loads into a heap at
his feet, and was boldly defending them with cocked rifle
against five of the warriors. Grant shouted to him not to
fire — bloodshed must be avoided before all — and, running
to his aid, seized two of his assailants by the shoulder and
swung them, one after the other, into the bushes ; and,
while the natives drew back for a moment in astonish
ment, he sprang on to the pile of goods and demanded to
know what they wanted.
The answer was, as he expected, that their king had
sent them to seize the presents which belonged "by
right" to him.
"Very well," said Grant, with an assumption of
indifference; "take them; but I warn you that I have
power to persuade your king to punish you. Lead on ; I
shall follow you. And beware how you injure my property."
The more acquisitively inclined had, by now, made off
with the bulk of the loads; but those who remained
behind seemed struck with the white man's air of stern
confidence ; they picked up the remaining bales, and,
without any attempt to open or rifle them, started to
walk swiftly away from the track which Grant had been
following till they reached a broader path which, before
sunset, brought them to the huts that formed the capital
of this predatory monarch.
An unpromising outlook awaited the captain and his
38s

A HOSTILE CROWD
loyal gun-man. At sight of them, men rushed out of the
huts, hooting, jeering and grimacing round them; more
over, by way of combining insult with injury, many of
these amiable beings were flaunting in the finery stolen
from the bundles; silks, beads and blankets.
A weaker man would either have fled or else have lost
his temper and made an idiot— and consequently a corpse
—of himself But Grant resolutely put from him
the temptation to knock down or shoot the irritating
savages who danced before him, and, instead, did his best
to collect his thoughts and to discover a way out of the
unlucky difficulty into which he had been plunged. Two
negroes now unwittingly did him a good turn; presented
their assegai-points at his breast. On such a man as he
was, the implied threat acted like a tonic ; and, without
moving a hair or a muscle, and merely keeping his eye
steadily fixed on the assailants, he said very quietly:
"Drop those weapons and take me into the king's
presence at once."
The hooting crowd fell back like one man, scared and
wonder-stricken ; and the spearmen, lowering their points,
assumed so foolish a demeanour that the hooters im
mediately veered — after the usual manner of a mob — and
treated them to a louder outburst of ridicule than that
with which they had assailed the white man. Grant and
his follower were conducted to a hut and told to wait
while the king was informed of their arrival. After a
delay of about a couple of hours, during which some of
the more humane of the savages brought offerings of meat
and fruit, the ambassadors who had first waited upon
Grant made their appearance. 286

RESTORATION OF BAGGAGE
Contrary to expectation, their bearing was civil and
even conciliatory. The king, they said, could not see him
that night, but immediate steps were being taken for the
recovery of the property and for the punishment of the
thieves. The king was enraged with these latter, and had
shown his just resentment by cutting off the right hand
of the ringleader. Much of the stolen property had
already been restored.
" How much ? " asked Grant sharply.
"Fifteen loads."
As fifteen was the exact number which had been spared
intact and carried by the natives who had conducted the
captain to the village, this meant nothing.
" And fifteen of your porters have arrived here ; others
are being sought for in the forest."
This was better news. If he could only effect a com
promise with the king he might recruit a fresh staff of
bearers from among the villagers and still get off safely.
" And the king promises that everything shall be given
back to you except the ornaments taken from the porters'
persons." In the morning Grant set out to obtain an interview
with the king, but this was put off. However, a message
was brought out to the effect that the packages had
already been given up and were being conveyed to the
hut where he had passed the night. The explorer
hastened back, doubtful of the truth of such good news.
But when he reached his dwelling he found a crowd of
natives depositing the bundles at his door, while about
half his original squad of gun-men and porters were
standing by. The packages had been hastily wrapped
287

AN UNWILLING GUEST
up, and many of them were noticeably smaller than they
had been. Untying them, Grant found that much of the
cloth and silk was hopelessly ruined by these lovers of
finery ; some of the flannel, and six loads of beads, were
wanting, and his own baggage had been plundered of a
teapot, a looking-glass, a pewter mug and a hand-saw.
The day was mainly passed in sending messengers to
the king ; and, at evening, Grant learnt that three of the
porters had deserted again. Another friendly message
came from the king, promising complete restitution in the
morning. The morning came, and with it the remaining
articles — and an abrupt order that the strangers were to
remain in the village until further notice.
The one loyal gun-man called the others together and
tried to persuade them to agree to aid their master in a
secret departure ; but the suggestion so frightened them
that they threatened to desert in a body if such a thing
were hinted again.
At last Grant got speech with the king, who said that
he wanted nothing of him ; would not dream of taking
anything; but that the gun-men must stay to help him
in crushing an inconvenient neighbour, in return for
which service he would supply as many extra porters as
the explorer might wish. The captain curtly refused,
and left the royal dwelling. In the village he found the
semi-hostile feeling of the king reflected in the people.
Actual violence was not again offered, but his men were
being annoyed in petty ways; worse still, the villagers
had refused to supply further food, and turned con
temptuously away from the bead coinage that was offered
as purchase-money. 288

BRUTALITY OF NATIVES
To put an end to this difficulty, Grant took three gun
men and plunged into the forest to do a little bird-
shooting. The sport was good and, by afternoon, his men
were laden with game.
As they were returning they heard loud shrieks in front
of them; and, quickening their pace, they found two
women and four men of some unknown tribe surrounded
by a dozen of the natives, who had bound them and were
about to butcher them.
It was characteristic of the kindly Scotch explorer
that — while he would not lift a finger when his own life
was threatened — the sight of such brutality as this should
tempt him to violent measures.
Pushing his way to the centre of the crowd, revolver in
hand, he demanded to know what was going on.
" They are strangers," was the sulky — and presumably
all-sufficient — answer.
" Untie them, and let them go," he said.
The men did not obey, but they fell back, and showed
no signs of offering resistance. Grant presented his
revolver. " You know what I can do with this," he said.
Evidently they did, for they drew further back still. The
captain cut the palm-ropes that tied the prisoners' hands
and feet, and telling his men to drop their loads of game
and cover the enemy with their guns, bade the released
blacks hurry themselves away. For twenty minutes he
thus " held up " the little mob of would-be murderers, not
one of whom ventured to move ; then, satisfied that the
strangers were out of reach, signed to them that they
were free to go.
19 289

MESSAGE FROM SPEKE
On returning to his hut he found ten more of the original
deserters, and was about to give them a piece of his mind
when one of them, approaching with an air of mystery
and importance, held out a scrap of paper. The explorer's
heart beat with excitement as he unfolded it, for he knew
it to be a leaf torn from Speke's note-book. These fellows,
with the gun-man who had remained faithful, were the
remains of the original company of bearers, and had had
sense enough, on escaping, to run on to where they hoped
to find the leader of the expedition. They had found
him, and had brought back his commands —
"Don't give guns; hit settle up somehow, and join me
at any cost."
Speke was lying ill at a town less than twenty miles away.
Now was the time for resolute action. Grant ordered
the bundles to be tied up securely, promised irresistible
bribes to porters who would carry a double load to make
up for the absence of others, and warned all to be ready
to march at sunrise. Then he dispatched a message to
the king telling him that go he must and would, and
warning him of the terrible vengeance that the white
warriors would take if he were delayed further. He was
willing, he added, to make him a little present of eighty
yards of calico and ten rolls of copper wire, and these were
ready for him as soon as he chose to send for them. In
an hour the messenger returned. Yes : Grant might go,
but the king considered him very stingy, and must have,
in addition to the promised present, twenty pieces of
coloured cloth, four barrels of gunpowder, and the Cap
tain's red blanket, the magnificence of which was the talk
of the place. 290

RANSOMING CHILDREN
Grant grew obstinate. The gunpowder he would not
part with at any price ; the blanket and cloth the king
was welcome to ; he would even throw in a case of beads ;
but beyond that he would give nothing. And, in the
end, the king sent a sullen acceptance of the terms. But
there was still another annoyance to be gone through.
Early as was the hour of departure, all the village was
astir, and every man, woman, child and dog combined to
make the travellers' exodus as ignominious as possible, by
hooting, shouting and howling, till Grant was more than
once tempted to order his men to fire on the rabble, and
was himself ready to shout for joy when the thickness of
the forest cut him off from further sight of the spot where
he had suffered so much.
After the mid-day halt, two of the bearers were missing
and had to be tracked. Their trail led to a lonely hut
where Grant found them haggling with a native couple,
both of whom seemed very frightened, while two children,
held firmly by one of the deserters, yelled discordantly.
The bearers had found the little ones straying near the
hut, and, anxious to avenge the indignities they them
selves had suffered at the hands of the tribe, had captured
them, and now refused to give them up unless an exorbit
ant ransom was paid. The captain released the children,
and took upon himself the task of paying the ransom —
with the cleaning-rod of his rifle.
The forest now showed signs of becoming less desolate,
and, that afternoon and the next day, the travellers passed
various huts and hamlets. By every one of these, Grant
was obliged to walk with his revolver ready for immediate
use, because the gun-men, having reached a part where
291

DETAINED AGAIN
firearms seemed unknown, and still burning with the
desire of showing off the bravery that had been wanting
at the time of the attack, would have picked a quarrel
with all the strangers they met for the sake of displaying
their own prowess with the gun ; and it was only by
threatening to shoot the first man who attempted to
interfere with the natives that Grant kept himself and
his party out of more than one serious quarrel.
Within one march of the spot where Speke was await
ing them, an unexpected hindrance arose. On waking in
the morning, Grant found the camp surrounded by about
a hundred armed blacks, who, though they made no offen
sive movement, signified by their attitude that they had
every intention of detaining the party. The captain's
heart sank ; after all the hardships and hindrances he
had met with, and just when he had fancied himself —
figuratively and literally — nearly out of the wood, his
recent trouble had apparently to be gone through all
over again.
" What is it you want ? " he asked of the leader.
" You will have to remain here for a fortnight."
"Why?"
" It is the custom of the country. All strange travellers
are kept waiting here before being allowed to proceed to
the town."
Neither threats nor bribes would appeal to the officials ;
there was no possible means of eluding the vigilance of
their jailers, and Grant despairingly tried to make up his
mind to accept the inevitable, dreading all the while that
his chief might be dying of fever or in danger from
unfriendly natives. 292

A SECOND MESSAGE
Killing time as best he could, he at last threw himself
down dejectedly at sunset and slept till morning. He
was awakened by a great uproar in the camp, and, spring
ing to his feet, he saw his faithful adherent deep in con
versation with some of the natives; while, near them,
stood half-a-dozen negroes whom he did not know, covered
with the dust and sweat of a hurried journey. Explana
tions were not long in coming. These blacks were mes
sengers from Speke, who had anticipated some such check
as this.
Speke was well, and in high favour with the king, and
his trusty helper was at liberty to join him as soon as he
pleased. That afternoon the two friends shook hands at the door
of the leader's hut, after a separation of five months.

293

CHAPTER XXV
IN THE LAND OF THE GORILLA
William Winwood Reade — Journey to the West Coast of Africa —
Ascent of the Gaboon River — The N'gumbi Forest — An elephant
"n'ghal" — The omnipotent "medicine-man'' — The gorilla
dance — Hunting the gorilla — Disappointment — Under arrest —
The grand palaver — A timely interruption — Escape.
William Winwood Reade, the discoverer of the Gaboon
Rapids, who, in a short life of thirty-seven years, contrived
to achieve distinction as traveller, scientist, novelist, war-
correspondent and soldier, was a nephew of Charles Reade
the famous novelist, and a devoted friend and admirer
of Sir Richard Burton. He somewhat resembled both;
possessing much of the literary genius of the one, and
a big share of the reckless daring, brilliant versatility and
love of adventure of the other.
While still at Oxford he came under the influence of
Paul du Chaillu's fascinating account of the gorilla country
of Western Africa ; and the subject gained such a grip of
him that, with scarcely a second thought, he set out for
what is now called French Congo, determined to see and
know for himself. Here he made his head-quarters at
a mission station, almost literally oa the equator, and
started off to explore the then little-known Gaboon River,
to study the manners and customs of gorillas and negroes,
294

THE N'GUMBI FOREST
and incidentally to shoot any game, big or little, that
might come within reach.
The ascent of the river was a lengthy undertaking, pro
ductive almost daily of incidents interesting or perilous.
On either bank lay portions of the great N'gumbi Forest,
rich in mangroves, plantains and palms ; the banks them
selves were alive with land-crabs, pelicans and "jumping
Johnnies " — a mixture of fish, frog and newt ; while, from
time to time, the crash of timber would announce the
near presence of larger animals ; gorillas, or an occasional
elephant. While they were still travelling through the forest his
canoemen encountered some fellow-tribesmen, who in
formed them that, fifteen miles higher up, a big " catch "
of elephants had just taken place, which the white stranger
might like to see. Reade at once hurried his men forward,
for to see an elephant enclosure or " n'ghal " was one
of the ambitions which as yet he had been unable to
gratify. Landing at a point where the systematic clearing of
timber indicated human habitations near at hand, he and
a couple of his most trustworthy men proceeded some
distance along the rough forest road and soon came to a
native village. Here he met the chief, who professed
himself charmed at making the stranger's acquaintance,
and gave orders that all his requirements — even to the
extent of a house, and, if necessary, a wife or so — should
be supplied.
He was conducted in state to the elephant "n'ghal,"
which was interesting and very puzzling. About a couple
of acres of ground were enclosed by stout rails and posts,
29s

AN ELEPHANT 'N'GHAL'
and in this pound were four or five dozen elephants. But
where were the rampant, raging animals of the Ceylon
corrals and the picture-books ? These creatures were as
mild as sheep, with the exception, perhaps, of one old
bull that stood rocking himself solemnly on three legs,
backwards and forwards, sometimes lashing out with
tail or trunk, and evidently not quite decided as to the
advisability of running amok.
" How did they all get here ? " inquired Reade of his
favourite canoeman, who acted as interpreter. "Driven
in, I suppose ? "
" No. They were not driven in. They came."
" Came ? "
"Yes. Through that gap." The negro pointed to an
opening some four feet wide, which Reade now noticed
for the first time. He looked ; looked again, and could
scarcely beheve his eyes. No attempt had been made
to close the gap ; and yet the elephants remained where
they were, never dreaming of making their escape !
The interpreter grinned at the white man's astonish
ment. " You not understand," he observed.
"Well, frankly, I don't," admitted the Englishman
humbly. " Medicine-man make fetich ; elephant come in.
Medicine-man make 'nother fetich ; elephant stop where
he is. When elephant to be killed, medicine-man make
'nother fetich for elephant not be angry."
This was neither lucid nor convincing ; but, before the
bewildered hearer could inquire further into the mystery,
the all-powerful being known as the " medicine-man " —
296

THE MEDICINE-MAN
a person of great importance in the state, combining the
functions of archbishop and physician-in-chief — made
his appearance, armed with a bit of rag and a vessel con
taining a dirty, brown liquid. Taking no notice of the
bystanders, he began to walk round the pen, singing in
doleful strain, and from time to time dipping the rag
in the liquid and daubing the palings therewith.
Reade could not discover whether the mysterious liquid
was a powerful drug, or whether — which was far more likely
— the medicine-man had some occult means of enticing
the elephants on to the spot where grew narcotic plants,
of which they would eat greedily and become stupid and
docile for a time. He was not allowed to see the killing
of the captives, nor could he gather any information
thereon, the whole proceeding evidently being considered
too sacred for the eyes and ears of a white man.
He now began to seek information on the subject of
gorillas. The negroes were more communicative on this
point ; gorillas were plentiful, they said, and, before many
days, the stranger should see them hunted, for the cry of
one of them had been heard near the village only that
morning. Meanwhile, in two days' time, there was to be a
"gorilla-dance" which he must, said the chief, on no account
miss. Of course Reade was more than willing to stay
for this mysterious entertainment, and whiled away the
time between a mild flirtation with the chiefs daughter
and the reception of various deputations from distant
villages who had come purposely to behold " the chief's
white man."
The evening of the dance came — after one or two post
ponements — and the Englishman was conducted to the
297

THE GORILLA DANCE
house of a hideously ugly slave named Etia, who enjoyed
the distinction of being the chief actor and gorilla-hunter
of the forest.
The house was a square wooden shed, quite open on
one side, with a roof thatched with twigs and supported
by a stout pole, firmly fixed in the mud floor. At one
side, on a portion of the floor which was slightly raised,
sat the orchestra on its hams ; three old men with faces
carefully whitened with chalk, one of whom played a
drum, another a single-stringed harp, something like the
bow of a bass-viol, and a third a " sounding-log " — a lump
of planed wood which, on being banged with a couple
of stout sticks, gave forth metallic and not unmusical
vibrations. The audience squatted outside under the
trees, save the chief and his guest, and a few favoured
ones who were admitted to an inside view.
The " overture " finished, Etia began proceedings by
hammering violently on an iron gong. This was to sum
mon Ombuiri, the evil spirit ; and, while that undesirable
personage made his invisible entry, the musicians struck
up again, and Etia danced himself into a violent perspira
tion. Again the music stopped, and while Etia cooled
down, the gong was once more beaten unmercifully. At
the first beat, three more dancers rushed into the hut,
yelling like maniacs, sprang high in the air, then stood
motionless ; and the band began again.
Gradually the drummer and the log-player ceased their
blows, and only the tinkle of the harp broke the silence.
At this, the three dancers began to move, first very, very
slowly ; then, by degrees, faster, till they were at the top
of their speed, when drummer and " logger " took up the
298

REALISTIC ACTING
strain anew and hammered so lustily that none could hear
himself speak.
All this while Etia had remained motionless ; but, as
dancing and music reached their highest pitch, he sprang
to his feet and began to copy to the very life the various
poses and expressions of the gorilla ; now drooping his
head in imitation of the ape's wooden stare ; now squat
ting with heaving shoulders and slightly moving lips ;
then almost sinking to sleep, only to rise suddenly with
flaming eyes and a frantic howl, and to climb, monkey-like,
up the roof-pole.
He had scarcely reached the top when another man
rushed into the hut and stopped short within a few feet
of the pole; this was the hunter. Cleverly simulating
the fear and irresolution of a man at such close quarters
with a gorilla, he fumbled tremulously with an imaginary
gun, and at last pretended to shoot. Instantly Etia
sprang from the roof-tree, landing open-mouthed and on
all fours, at the feet of the hunter, where he seemed to
expire in the very act of snapping at the hand that had
killed him ; then rose and grinningly received the applause
of the company. Never in all his life had Reade beheld
such realistic acting ; it was some days before he could
rid his mind of the combined horror and admiration
which the scene provoked.
Not many days after came the hunt of the real gorilla.
Reade was aroused at daybreak, and, after a hurried break
fast, followed Etia and a friend of the latter's — Tsambo
by name, who knew a few words of English — into the
depths of the forest. Etia had provided himself with a
sort of band-box made of bark, wherein he carried his
299

AN AFRICAN FOREST
ammunition, and an ancient musket whose lock was
covered with monkey-skin.
For about an hour they followed a path of soft black
mud, but this at last ended abruptly, and they found
themselves in a maze of strange and wonderful trees, on
the trunks and boughs of which aU kinds of monkeys
and squirrels, striped and spotted, were disporting them
selves. At length a wall of canes and undergrowth seemed as
though it would bring them to a dead stop. But, without
a word, the two negroes wheeled sharply and continued
walking till they came to the merest parting in the thicket,
such as a man might make in a hurried passage through.
" Gorilla that way," muttered Tsambo, pointing ; then
turned to copy Etia's example of crawling along the track
on hands and knees ; a quarter of an hour of which work
found them once again in the more open forest. The
native stopped, exchanged a few words, then Tsambo —
whispering to the Englishman to stay where he was —
followed his friend into a second clump of brushwood;
and, before Reade could fully realize what was happening,
they were out of sight and hearing, and he was, for the
first time, quite alone in an African forest.
The situation was not altogether a comfortable one, for
although Reade even at that time was a man of almost
unshakable nerve as well as a dead shot, he could not see
on all sides of him at once ; and while he watched for a
possible gorilla, some other evil beast or dangerous reptile
might assail him from behind or below. To pass the time,
he sought on the ground for the track that the natives
seemed so easily able to find. The grass gave no evidence
300

HUNTING THE GORILLA
whatever ; but, a few yards farther on, a stout branch lay
upon the ground. He walked over to it and saw at once
that it had been but newly torn from its trunk. There
had been no wind for months, and no human hand was
strong enough to have wrenched off- a bough of such
thickness, nor could any animal perching on it have
broken it; thus it was tolerably clear that either an
elephant or a gorilla had done the deed ; and, to a young
man not yet experienced in big-game shooting, neither
animal was a desirable companion in the lonely forest.
He had waited impatiently for about twenty minutes
when a sudden rustHng of the bushes to his right made
him turn briskly and cock his gun ; as he did so a dark
form moved swiftly among the leaves in his direction.
Thankful that the enemy had given him timely warning,
he was dimly wondering what he should do if he missed
his aim, when an agonized whisper came through the
bushes — "No shoot; no shoot Tsambo;" and the dark-
skinned owner of that name skipped out of the brushwood.
Without stopping to acknowledge the Englishman's
compliment in mistaking him for an ape, the black
beckoned him forward; and, following him, Reade soon
came upon Etia holding a bunch of plantains which the
gorilla, on scenting the hunters, had dropped in his
flight. "Close to, now," murmured Tsambo after they had
followed Etia's lead for another hundred yards ; and, even
as he spoke, a hurried trampling and growling was
audible among the bushes a few yards ahead. Trembling
with excitement, Reade crawled breathlessly along. At
last he was to see a real gorilla. 301

DISAPPOINTMENT
All at once, within almost a dozen paces of the spot
whence the noise proceeded, one of the blacks trod on a
dead, dry branch. It cracked like a whip-lash. Immedi
ately there was another sudden, swift movement in the
bushes beyond, and the gleam of a blue-black hide ; the
thud of footsteps over the fallen leaves grew fainter
and fainter; then all was still again. The gorilla had
escaped. Fuming at the negro's obstinate refusal to pursue the
creature, though secretly aware that it would be a useless
attempt, the young man accompanied them home again,
and proceeded to pack up his traps for departure on the
morrow. Next morning, when all was ready, the interpreter came
to him with a message from the chief. The stranger was
forbidden to quit his dominions until further notice.
" When does he think about letting me go ? " asked Reade
in surprise.
"To-morrow."
" Ah, yes. I know what a nigger's ' to-morrow ' is.
Take no notice. Carry the things down to the boat and,
if the men are ready, we'll get off at once."
The men were ready, but before the boat had travelled
above half-a-mile, loud shouts were heard in the rear, and
two war canoes, each manned by a crew of about thirty
natives, were seen in hot pursuit.
Reade stood up and, turning round on the pursuers,
levelled his gun at them, and was on the point of firing
when his canoe received a sudden twist that all but shot
him into the river ; and, looking round again, he saw that
his men had ceased paddling. The reason was not far to
302

UNDER ARREST
seek. Another crew had been lying in ambush in a creek
higher up the river; but now shot across his bows, and
was coolly occupied in turning the boat round.
To do his own men justice, they made somewhat of a
fight, and not till the interpreter was knocked sprawling
with a bleeding nose, did they surrender at discretion and
suffer themselves to be towed ignominiously back to the
village. Reade of course sought out the chief, whom, contrary to
anticipation, he found perfectly bland and good-humoured.
But the only reply he could extract from him was that
there would be a grand " palaver " on the morrow, when
the sages and elders of the people would decide what was
to be done with the stranger and his followers.
Visions of years of captivity in a barbarous country,
such as many travellers had had to endure, rose before the
young man's mind, and he hurried back to his lodging to
revolve plans of escape. And the more he considered it
the more questionable became his position ; he was three
hundred miles from his head-quarters ; two hundred from
the nearest " white station " ; and even his own canoemen
were not wholly to be trusted, to say nothing of his
captors. The morrow came, and with it the palaver or council,
from the deliberations of which Reade could gather
nothing ; though his new friend Tsambo contrived to give
him the comforting assurance that he was not likely to
be set at liberty in a hurry, because he was a source, at
least of prestige, if not of revenue, to the chief. A chief
who had a tame white man on his premises would be the
most envied being of the whole forest ; and other rulers
3°3

THE GRAND PALAVER
from miles round were supposed to be already on the way
to witness the phenomenon.
Proceedings were nearing their close, and Reade was
trying to reconcile himself temporarily to his fate, when
suddenly a great commotion and scuffle arose outside the
hut ; and then twelve negroes, fully armed and of ferocious
aspect, entered forcibly and noisily, and " lined up " in
front of the chief. Behind them walked the interpreter
who, signalling encouragingly to his master, began to
harangue, first the chief, and then the new-comers with
great violence. At length, leaving these to wrangle
together to the top of their bent, he crossed over to his
employer and entered upon a brief explanation.
The strangers were members of a powerful tribe to
which he and a few others of the canoemen belonged, and
to which he had despatched a swift messenger at the
moment of the arrest. Now they had come to demand
justice on the evil-doers of the previous days.
Some twelve months earlier, he continued, through the
intervention of an English officer, a rule had been agreed
upon among the various forest chiefs that, in the event of
bloodshed between men of two different tribes, the one at
fault should pay a fine to the other, to the avoidance
of civil war and the maintenance of proper law and
order. " He has shed the blood of our tribe," concluded the
interpreter, pointing at the chief. " Now he must pay
the fine, or our people will burn the town."
" Shed the blood of your tribe ? When ? Where ? "
The interpreter grinned from ear to ear and, gracefully
laving his thumb on his still contused nose, hinted that
3°4

ESCAPE
bloodshed was bloodshed, even though it came from that
part of the body.
Meanwhile the voices grew higher and the argument
hotter; and at length the interpreter, beckoning to his
master to follow, led the way out of the hut, and, by a by
path, to the river bank, where the boat and most of its
crew were waiting. Then, satisfied that the interest of
the villagers was sufficiently centred in the war-canoe in
which the ambassadors had come, and which was still
occupied by a score of the stranger tribe, Reade and his
men leisurely embarked, and, without further difficulty,
made good their escape to a safer neighbourhood.

305

CHAPTER XXVI
AN ARTIST'S ADVENTURES IN SAVAGE AFRICA
Thomas Baines, special artist — The Chapmans' expedition to the
Victoria Falls — A forest on the Zambesi — Eland-shooting —
Baines as a naturalist — Killing a chameleon — The doings of the
"butcher-bird" — An alarming accident — Going to shoot a
giraffe, and killing a lion — Dangers of possessing an indolent
servant — Miraculous escape from an elephant — Two curious
trees — The natives growing formidable.
Among the " lookers-on " who proverbially " see most of
the game" where military expeditions and hazardous
enterprises are concerned, the war-correspondent and the
special artist must be said to merit some of the chief
honours. Indeed, experience goes to show that these
men who, often unused to hardships, or unfitted for taking
their own part, yet run all the risks of the trained and
well-equipped soldier, or share the dangers of the tried
explorer, may at times claim equal rank on the roll of
fame with those who have discovered or conquered a new
country. Thomas Baines, who accompanied the British Army as
artist during the Kaffir and Transvaal troubles of 1848-51,
shared also in the terrible adventures of Gregory, the
explorer, in North-Western Australia in 1855, and was
the Royal Geographical Society's special draughtsman on
one of Livingstone's later Zambesi journeys.
306

ELAND-SHOOTING
In 1861 the three brothers Chapman persuaded him to
join them in their expedition across Africa from Walfisch
Bay to the Victoria Falls, taking Lake Ngami on the way ;
and various adventures befell him in the forest-land near
the Falls.
Travelling on horseback, by wagon, or, in places, along
the river in copper portable boats which Baines had
ingeniously constructed, the four Englishmen and their
native servants came, in course of time, to the hilly belt
of forest and bush which separates the better-watered
portion of South Central Africa from the dreary Kalahari
desert ; and, lest they might, by going farther, fare worse,
they established themselves here while they sent out
native messengers to try and discover the temper and
attitude of the celebrated Sekeletu, and other local
rulers, towards strangers.
Anxiety as to food supply was set at rest by the close
proximity of several herds of elands, which were so tame
as to come within easy gun-shot. The flesh of this
animal — the largest of the whole antelope family — is
considered, even by Europeans, as one of the most
appetizing dishes which South Africa has to offer. At
one time the eland, or Cape elk, or impoofoo, as he is
variously known, was common enough even as far south
as Cape Town ; but, long before Baines' time, increasing
civilization had driven him back and back, on to the
Kalahari and beyond ; as far north, often, as the
Zambesi. The naturalist was almost as strong in Baines as the
artist ; and the notes and observations which he made on
the African fauna were extensive and valuable. One of
3°7

THE CHAMELEON
the trophies of his journey on which he prided himself
was a beautifully marked, though small, golden eagle — or
lamb-catcher, as the Boers call him — which he shot as it
was swooping down on an eland kid.
Another item in his collection was a good-sized
chameleon, which he found clinging to a low branch,
apparently dead or asleep ; but, when he stooped over
the reptile to examine it more closely, he saw that,
though one eye was quite motionless, the other was
protruding, rolling round, and glaring in a manner hideous
to behold. The negroes assured Baines of the truth of
the current opinion that this reptile goes to sleep by
halves, its left and right sides taking it in turns to keep
watch for the insects on which it feeds. Contrary to his
expectation, the artist had no difficulty in capturing this
specimen ; but, having caught it, how was he to kill it
mercifully, and without injuring the body ?
One of the Chapmans suggested, not seriously, that it
might be starved to death, but a Bosjemann servant who
understood English gravely remarked that to do so would
be impossible ; that the chameleon eats merely for pleasure
or relaxation, and could, at need, live on air all its life long.
This statement was not so quite so wild as might seem ;
for German naturalists, who have made experiments with
the creature, say that, after a month's abstinence from
food, he is to all appearances as well as ever.
As no other poison was forthcoming, Baines decided in
favour of tobacco ; and put into operation a plan he had
often seen employed by Boers and Kaffirs in destroying
snakes. Knocking the stale, rank "dottel" out of his
pipe-bowl, he thrust it into the mouth of the unfortunate
308

A BIRDS LARDER
reptile, and accompanied the dose with a few drops of
water; in a few seconds the chameleon was dead.
Baines' interest in science and sport came, once or
twice, very near to involving him in a tragedy. On the
day after the catching of the chameleon, he wandered
away into the forest, with a moderately intelligent
Bosjemann as his only companion. In the course of
his walk, coming upon a large flowering shrub in full
blossom, which was unknown to him, he paused to
examine it more closely. But his attention was almost
immediately diverted from the flowers to the objects
which were impaled on their thorns.
All over the bush, just as though they were some
extraordinary fruit or seed-vessel that had a perfect right
to be there, were specimens of many of the smaller
African birds, some of which Baines had never seen close ;
all these, beautifully dried by the sun, and in no way
putrid, were hung on the points and prickles of the shrub,
just like a museum collection, or the prizes on a Christmas
tree. "So we've got butcher-birds about here ? " he remarked
to his servant. " My gun's loaded with ball ; keep a look
out, and if you see any, try and shoot some with yours ; "
and he returned to his scientific investigations.
Among the little birds thus impaled was the morok, or
"honey-guide," which entices men to follow him to the
nests of wild bees. Baines was familiar with these
curious birds, for Livingstone had been at great pains to
verify the popular belief about them ; and had established
it as a fact that, so great is the morok's desire for the
pupse of the bees, that he will try every possible means
3°9

BUTCHER-BIRDS
to persuade men to follow him and demolish the nest.
" But how is it," asks the great missionary hero, " that
members of this family have learned that all men, white
and black, are fond of honey ? "
The artist had also seen the work of the butcher-bird
before, though never with quite this result ; for the bush,
standing away from the tree-shade, was exposed to the full
glare of the sun, which was, at this time of year, so scorch
ing as to wither and dry up the little carcasses before ever
decomposition had time to set in. In a general way, the
butcher-bird — one of the shrikes — having exercised his
bloodthirsty propensity for killing every bird within
reach that is not too big for him (he is scarcely larger
than a thrush) hangs his victims on thorns or twigs and
devours them at his leisure. The Hottentots say that
he will not eat fresh food if he can help it ; and that the
spirit which prompts him to stick his prey on these
improvised meat-hooks is that which moves a cook to
"hang" game or a leg of mutton.
Baines was finishing his inspection of the bird's larder,
when his man cried : " Butcher-birds, Baas ! " and pointed
upwards. " All right, boy ; blaze away at them."
The Bosjemann was armed with a very ancient shot-gun,
of which he was inordinately proud, and, nothing loth to
prove his skill as a marksman, he pointed the weapon at
a small flight of birds overhead, and pulled the trigger.
A crash like the explosion of a bomb followed, and the
artist knew nothing more for some minutes.
Recovering from his temporary stupor, he found that
he was lying on the grass with a dull pain in his hip
310

AN ALARMING ACCIDENT
as though from a violent blow ; and, near him, unconscious
and with his face bathed in blood, was his companion.
The old shot-gun, too generously loaded and rammed by
its possessor, had burst. Luckily Baines was not injured
beyond the smart blow which he had received from a
flying lump of metal ; but the Bosjemann was so shaken
and cut that his master was obHged to carry him back to
the wagons, and it was some weeks before he recovered
from his injuries.
Though he had had better opportunities than most
men for African big-game shooting, Baines had never yet
been fortunate enough to kill a giraffe ; and, one evening,
when the news came that one had been drinking at the
pool near the camp, he set off at once to a place from
which he might get a convenient shot at the coveted
animal. His intention was to stalk him, and cut him
off in front ; but the Damara man who accompanied him
begged him to be cautious.
" If he should turn on us," he said, " he might trample
or kick us to death. White people say he is harmless."
He laughed contemptuously. " I have seen one swing his
head and stun a lion with one blow ; and his trampling is
like that of the elephant."
'' Very well ; we will watch for him from that hillock,
where we shall be hidden by the trees," said the artist,
in the Damara tongue. " You go on and wait for me
there. Here, carry the rifle ; " and taking out his
sketch-block, he began to make a rapid drawing of the
little wooded valley, round the curve of which lay the
pool. He was putting one or two final touches to his work
3"

AN INDOLENT SERVANT
when a giraffe came in sight, wandering listlessly round
the bend thirty yards in front of him.
Baines dropped the sketch-block and reached for his
gun ; then recollected that he had unwisely given it to the
native to carry. He slapped his thigh with irritation ; he
might have waited years for such an opportunity, and now
it was thrown away.
Lightly as he had smitten himself, the sound echoed
among the trees in the evening quiet ; and, as though
warned by it to go no further, the giraffe stood still.
Scarcely hoping to be able to attract the negro's atten
tion noiselessly, Baines looked up the hill whither he had
sent the man ; the latter, who, after his kind, had not the
least intention of hurrying himself, had gone but a bare
fifty yards, and was at that moment resting from the task
imposed on him and looking sleepily down at his
employer. The artist beckoned frantically and pointed in
front of him ; and the native, at last realizing that he and
the gun were wanted, began to descend at a pace that
suggested that to-morrow would do.
Chafing and fuming, Baines stood watching the giraffe,
expecting every moment either to see it make a dash for
him or turn up one of the slopes and disappear in the
thicker part of the forest. Yet the animal did neither ;
but remained standing, now cropping the acacia leaves
near his head, now sniffing the air and looking round him
half apprehensively. Again the impatient hunter signed
to the Damara man, who had now accomplished about half
the original distance between them ; he dared not shout,
or even whisper, but continued to wave, as surreptitiously
as might be, to the fellow to hurry himself.
312

LIONS AND GIRAFFE
Suddenly there was ever so slight a movement among
the bushes midway between himself and the giraffe; a
yellowish patch, that, even in the fading Hght, showed up
strongly against the dark-green background, was slowly
moving down to the lower level, and Baines could almost
hear his own heart beat ; for the intruder was, he knew,
a lion. Would he turn to right or left ? Had the man, or the
giraffe attracted him ? Afraid even to tum his head, the
artist rolled his eye round to see if his gun had come any
nearer. It had; it and its energetic bearer were now
only a dozen yards away. Just then the hidden enemy
threw off all attempt at concealment, and, with a roar that
was like the bellowing of many cattle, not one lion, but
two, together with their lionesses, sprang from among the
trees. Baines felt that his voice rose to a scream as he called
for his gun ; but, seeming unaware of his presence, the
lions had turned their backs on him and were already
preparing to spring on the giraffe.
The bolder of the two males made a bound straight for
its neck; and now Baines proved the truth of the
Damara man's statement. Springing a Httle to one side,
and lowering its head, the giraffe swung it heavily in a
sideward direction, striking the lion's flank with it while
he was in mid-air ; and, doubled up with the shock and
pain, the brute lay for a moment snarling, almost whining ;
then gathered himself together, and, head down, turned
his back on his enemy and began to walk slowly towards
the two spectators.
Desperately Baines snatched the gun from the hands of
3'3

A HERD OF ELEPHANTS
his tardy attendant, and, without considering the danger
of having to reload, fired off both his cartridges at the
advancing beast; then, not waiting to see whether the
now prostrated lion would get up again, he did what most
of us would probably have done in his place ; obeyed the
negro's injunction to run for his life ; nor did he stop till
the hearty laughter of his friends near at hand told him
that he was fleeing from nothing. In the morning he
returned to the scene of the battle ; the lion that he had
shot at lay dead ; but the others, as well as the giraffe, had
left no trace or indication of the subsequent proceedings.
A few evenings later, while Baines and Edward and
James Chapman were prolonging their afternoon nap
under a wagon-tilt, two of the natives came to call them
to watch a crowd of elephants that were drinking at the
pool ; strangers, probably, that had migrated from the
Kalahari. The three men hastened off with their dogs,
and were soon in sight of the elephants, but, as it would
have been madness to shoot at a herd of unknown
number, they contented themselves with hiding behind
trees and merely watching.
But, in an evil moment, the six dogs elected to push
their inquiries further; and not heeding their masters'
calls, ran down to the pool. In a few minutes a mad
chorus of barking arose, and it was seen that two of the
dogs had cut off a tiny calf-elephant from the rest and
were making things uncomfortable for the little one, whose
pitiful " tooting " now roused not only its own mother but
half-a-dozen other indignant matrons.
To Baines, the scene that followed was a more or less
jumbled blur, with a discordant accompaniment of shouts,
3'4

A MIRACULOUS ESCAPE
screams, barks and trumpetings. If anything at all stood
out clearly, it was the fact that the dogs which had
worried the calf, on seeing themselves in danger from the
attacking herd, were heading straight for — of all places in
the world — the very spot where their masters were in
hiding! The artist looked round for his friends; they
appeared to be gone, and he was all alone.
Dropping his gun, which in such a case was only a
hindrance, he ran breathlessly without knowing, and
scarcely caring, which direction he was taking ; dodging
tree-trunks, tumbling over roots, tearing skin and clothes
against the bushes. But the tramping behind him warned
him that flight would not serve him ; and, with an
indistinct sense of shame at his sudden fright, he at last
turned, with a glimmer of hope that he might out
manoeuvre his pursuers.
Only one elephant was in sight, but she so close that to
escape her seemed impossible. Just at hand were two
trees, growing so near together as only with difficulty to
admit of the passage of a man's figure ; and both of
considerable girth. Round these the fugitive leapt, and
the elephant, as if unable to check her speed, or else hav
ing lost sight of him, careered past and was soon heard
crashing through the brushwood several yards beyond.
Then, from his left, came the sweetest music he had ever
heard ; the words —
" Come on ; now's your time ; up with you, quick."
Dazedly looking about him, he saw that his unguided
flight had brought him to the rear of the camp ; and
only a few yards away from him were his three friends
standing on the tailboard of one of the wagons.
315

TWO CURIOUS TREES
" I dared not fire," said Henry Chapman, " as the others
hadn't their guns ready. If I'd missed, or only wounded
her, she'd have made mince-meat of us all."
"Where's the herd?" gasped Baines when he had
scrambled into the wagon.
" Over there."
The painter looked towards the valley. The remaining
four dogs were chasing the savage herd, driving them
before them as they would have driven a flock of terrified
sheep. During the final journey towards Sekeletu's immediate
neighbourhood the travellers found themselves again in a
similar forest, and, between their desire for further sport
and the necessity of providing fresh meat for themselves
and their many followers, they gladly availed themselves
of the chance of buffalo- hunting which the vicinity
afforded. While this was in progress they made acquaintance
with a tree which none of them had seen before ; a " tree
with legs " — a Moroomohooto or Motjeerie, possibly akin to
the Indian banyan, described in Chapter X, having a
main stump in the centre, and a dozen or more small ones
round it. A little further on was the colossal baobab tree,
or Adansonia digitata ; really, a giant silk-cotton plant,
whose trunk sometimes measures as much as a hundred
feet in circumference, and which lives for more than a
thousand — perhaps many thousand years. Its fruit,
known as monkey-bread, contains an acid, starchy pulp,
which is nutritious and of agreeable flavour ; and from its
fibres are made ropes, mats and articles of clothing.
316

NATIVE BULLIES
Their examination of the baobab was interrupted by
the appearance of a quagga, which Edward Chapman shot.
Then, as they were proceeding on their way, two big
negroes in full war dress dashed out from among the
trees and faced them threateningly, demanding to know
the cause of the firing. Baines, who, on his previous
journey, had picked up a smattering of their dialect,
replied that, as Livingstone had reported that Sekeletu
wished to trade with the white men, they were there
to know his requirements.
The two strangers — servants of a minor chief — assumed
a bullying tone and said that, however that might be,
they were here to protect the domain of their master,
Moshotlami. The artist, however, who knew the local
weakness for presents and finery, soon appeased the
savages with the gift of some cheap beads, and they
offered no further opposition.
But this little check, unimportant enough in itself, was
" the beginning of the end." The history of the remainder
of the attempt to open up trade with the Africans was
simply one gloomy tale of sickness, accident, robbery
and disappointment, and ended with the discovery that
Sekeletu had lately been amusing himself by poisoning
some missionaries; and fever-stricken, disheartened, and
deserted by many of their servants, the Englishmen were
at length obliged to abandon the expedition.

317

CHAPTER XXVII
AMONG THE FOREST ARABS IN PALESTINE
The Holy Land as a forest country — The French mission scientifique
— An artificial pine forest — The hired horses of the East — Pur
suing the truant — De Saulcy loses his way — How to deal with
footpads — A friendly eheik — Robbers — " Save us from our
friends '."—Dogged by Arabs— The forest of Rhor Safieh— Gifts
from the Bedawin — An anxious night — "Presents" — Yet more
presents — Exasperation — Turkish cavalry to the rescue.
Though often enough we find allusions, both in the
Old and New Testament, to the forests of Palestine, the
country as a whole is too near the world's desert region to
be productive of vast forest tracts such as would be found
in better watered districts. Yet, on either side of the
Jordan valley, broken stretches of woodland, sometimes
thirty or forty miles in length, occur; dense groves of
olives, or dark pine woods, inhabited only by jackals, foxes,
antelopes, eagles, and wandering Arab herdsmen or free
booters. Ever since the days of Burckhardt, Palestine exploration
has been encouraged by almost every civilized government,
and valuable discoveries from an antiquarian point of view
have been the result. So taken up, however, were the
various expeditions with archaeological research, that it
was not till the later half of the nineteenth century,
when the French Government authorized M. de Saulcy to
3i8

THE FRENCH MISSION
explore the forest region round about the Jordan and the
north of the Dead Sea, that we find very much attention
being paid to botanical inquiry in the Holy Land.
This expedition, generally known as the "De Saulcy
Scientific Mission to the East," consisting of de Saulcy,
the Abbe Michon with a few friends and servants, set out
from Beirut, across country to the Jordan, and then
marched southwards for the Dead Sea. After weary
miles of desert travel, broken only by an occasional halt
at some unsavoury village, we can well understand how
rejoiced the travellers were at the first sight of the distant
trees; not just a few scant-foliaged date palms, but a
thick, blue-black mass of pines, looking as though they
belonged by right to Russia or Sweden.
Of this forest de Saulcy had never heard, and his
moukri or muleteer, Said, seemed hazy about it ; for a
noticeable feature about the Syrian guide is that he
usually requires to be guided by those who are quite
ignorant of the locality. As the party came nearer they
found that a good, almost new, road-way ran partly
through the wood, terminating about half-way in a very
dirty khan, or inn, at which they decided to pass the
night. As usual they were soon surrounded by all the
idle loafers who happened to be within call, and who, even
when they had at last extracted the eternal " backshish,"
still refused to budge. However, from one of the more
intelligent of these, who happened to speak French, the
Abbe gleaned the information that the " forest " through
which they were passing was in reality only an over
grown plantation made there many years before by a cer
tain wise emir, with a view to stopping the progress of
3i9

HIRED HORSES
the quickly encroaching sand. This was the only advan
tage obtained from the halt at the khan, for " a night's
rest " at an eastern hostelry is a misnomer indeed. Every
one was thankful to recommence the journey at daybreak.
All travellers in the East abuse the horses of the
country ; and those used on this occasion were to be no
exception. The only ones with any spirit were the two
ridden by the Abbe and de Saulcy's son, Edouard; the
latter horse managed to stumble over a projecting tree-
root, throwing his rider rather badly, and then fled back
the way they had come ; nor was he ever re-captured.
Pere Michon's steed was even more troublesome ; during
the mid-day rest, which was made on a belt of greensward
that separated the end of the fir plantation from a natural
wood of olive and orange trees, he took advantage of
having been carelessly tethered, to bolt, run amok through
the group of travellers who were reclining over their meal,
and finally to plunge into the yet unexplored forest. As
the only spare horse was now being used by young de
Saulcy, this was a loss that the expedition could not
afford. The moukri made the sane suggestion that they
should fire at the animal, which, finding its progress
arrested by the trees and close-growing shrubs, was now
slowly skirting the little camp; while M. de Saulcy,
without further waste of words, started on foot in pursuit.
To try to catch an obstinate horse, even in a small
meadow, may be a day's hard work ; to attempt the same
thing in an olive wood, over twenty square miles in extent,
is a labour of Hercules. The horse, on seeing himself
followed, set off at a brisk walk, breaking into a trot
whenever he could ; and very soon both he and his pur-
320

PURSUING THE TRUANT
suer were out of sight of the camp. For over two hours
the patient old scientist chased that precious quadruped,
often getting within ten feet of him, only to have the
mortification of seeing the wayward beast amble off thirty
yards farther, and start peacefully grazing again. But at
last de Saulcy contrived to creep near enough to the truant
to be able to spring out on him suddenly from behind a
screen of fragrant " retem " bushes and grasp the bridle.
Now arose the problem of finding the rest of the party.
De Saulcy was already very fatigued with his long tramp,
and to sit in the saddle was impossible among these low-
branched trees ; tired or not, he must at least walk till
he came to some road or track. Leading the horse, he
trudged doggedly along for nearly an hour, in the direction,
so far as he could guess it, in which he had come, and at
last had the satisfaction of hearing a stir among the trees
as of tethered horses, and, as he drew nearer, of men's
drowsy voices. He shouted to the speakers, and then, to
his disappointment, saw two ragged Arabs appear from
behind a tree where they had been lounging. Something
in their bearing — a significant interchange of glances and
a sudden lowering of the voices — made him suspicious.
Luckily he had his revolver with him, and, being a prudent
man, wasted no time in letting the weapon be seen ; yet
made no attempt at slackening his pace till he was up
with them.
In the best Arabic he could command he civilly asked
the way to the fir plantation. Immediately one of the
Arabs began a fawning speech about the poverty of him
self and his father, while the other slyly laid his hand on
the butt of a pistol that was stuck in his girdle. De Saulcy
21 321

DEALING WITH FOOTPADS
at once raised the hand that now held his revolver and
said sharply —
" Let that stay where it is."
The man sulkily dropped his hand while his companion
whiningly offered to guide the stranger, if it were made
worth his while. The Frenchman swiftly reflected; he
would be considerably better off without guides who, at
any moment, might put a bullet into him; yet if he
moved on alone there was equal likelihood of their firing
on him the moment his back was turned. Looking about
him he saw that, a few yards beyond where the men had
been lying, their horses were tied to a bush, and close by
lay two muskets. This decided him; at least he must
decoy them away from their means of pursuing him, or of
killing him at long range.
" The path lies that way ; I know so much," he said,
pointing away from where the horses were fastened.
" Both of you walk in front of me ; you shall be rewarded
if you guide me safely — but if you attempt any
treachery  "

" But our horses ? Our-

De Saulcy made a significant motion with his pistol
hand. " Lead on," he said ; " you can return for those
presently." Very sulkily the two ruffians shambled forward in the
direction pointed out. In about three minutes the French
man found himself in a wide green space, beyond doubt a
continuation of the one where the camp had been pitched.
But so round-about had been the route which the runaway
horse had led him that he could not possibly tell whether
to go left or right. His guides, still muttering in an
322

A FRIENDLY SHEIK
undertone, continued to walk straight across as though
leading him towards the fir plantation, and, taking advan
tage of their backs being turned to him, he proceeded to
mount the Abbe's horse. Just then he heard the crack of
a rifle, and saw coming towards him, along the narrow
plain, a herd of antelopes, breaking into full speed, and,
behind them, on foot, three men in whom he soon recog
nized his son, his French servant, and the artist to the
expedition. On hearing the report the guides stopped,
and, now that they saw the stranger waving to the hunters,
turned and sprang back into the olive wood, and disap
peared. On coming up with his friends de Saulcy learned
that he was now less than a mile from the camp, which
the party had feared to leave till his return.
As the moukri said that there was a small town on the
fringe of the next wood, aU speed was now made to reach
it before nightfall. The path turned out to be far
narrower and more winding than that which led through
the plantation, and progress was miserably slow. Sud
denly the French servant looking behind him cried :
" See ; we are pursued ! " and pointed back to where a
couple of Arabs were riding as swiftly as the road would
allow. " Let them overtake us," said his master. " They will
not attack so large a party."
The two new-comers were soon up with them, and a
voice hailed them in excellent French ; the speaker was a
showily-attired young sheik, and his companion evidently
an attendant. Instead of being a robber, the young man,
who proved to be tolerably well educated, was making a
peaceful journey to the neighbouring town, and he now
323

ROBBERS
offered to accompany the strangers, on the plea that the
forest was infested by Arab brigands who were at all
times dangerous to Europeans. The little cavalcade
moved on again, the sheikh entertaining de Saulcy and
the Abbe with accounts of the bloodthirsty deeds of the
forest bedawin.
" That is their stronghold," he said after a while, as at
dusk they came to a spot where the trees and shrubs on
one side of the way grew suddenly thicker than they had
yet appeared.
The words were scarcely out of his mouth when Said,
who rode ahead, pulled up his mule and backed, crying in
French —
" Thieves ! thieves ! Some one is whispering behind
the bushes."
The sheik pushed his way to the front, and reining up,
peered intently into the dark thicket.
" A'ich ente ? (Who goes there ?) " he cried sharply.
No answer came, but the gleam of a few spear-points
and pistol-barrels was plain enough now, despite the
gloom. " Answer me, you dogs," shouted the fiery-tempered
sheik; then, turning towards de Saulcy, he said: "Let us
fight them ; it will be amusing."
The Frenchmen shook their heads; there were quite
enough dangers surrounding them without going to look
for them.
The young man shrugged his shoulders as though he
had but a low opinion of European courage, and, without
further preliminary, pushed his horse at the thicket.
Immediately a pistol was fired, but the charge flew harm-
324

DOGGED BY ARABS
lessly over the young fellow's shoulder; and he, taking
deliberate aim at some hidden object, fired his own pistol.
There was a low moan from behind the bushes, and the
sound of a falling body ; then the prolonged rustling that
denoted the flight of several men ; then came three or
four musket-balls wildly fired; then silence again. It
only now seemed to dawn on the foolhardy young Arab
that he and his companions still had a mile and more of
this thicket to pass before they reached the town, and that
it would form an excellent screen for any one who wished
to " pot at " a passing rider. De Saulcy pointed this out
to him, but he replied —
" Pah ! They haven't intelligence or courage enough."
He added airily — " All the same we'd better hurry ; I've
got you out of one scrape and we need not risk- another
by stopping here;" and, acting on this suggestion, the
riders made all speed to reach the town, where they
arrived without further mishap.
" Save us from our friends ! " murmured the Abb4 as
they took leave of this hot-headed individual.
During the couple of days spent in and about this
town, the Frenchmen had an uncomfortable feeling that
they were being watched and dogged by three disreput
able Arabs, whose dress and arms gave them the appear
ance of being nomads rather than townsmen ; and the
suspicion was confirmed when, on setting off again, they
saw a small cavalcade riding at some distance across the
plain, parallel to their own line of march, and seeming
to observe their movements closely. Later they lost
sight of these doubtful characters, for their own path
led through a group of low hills with marshy vaUeys
3«S

FOREST OF RHOR SAFIEH
between. The next day, when de Saulcy's party were
clear of the hills, they saw not far ahead of them the
outline of another wood, fairly open, yet extensive, which
the muleteer said was the forest of Rh6r Safieh. It was
well on in the afternoon when they reached this, but, as
they could nowhere see any part of the wood thick
enough to serve as an ambush for robbers as long as it
remained light, de Saulcy resolved to push on towards
a small village, at which they ought to be able to arrive
in a few hours.
But travelling proved very bad; the soil was greasy
and lumpy, and the horses could not keep pace with the
mules; moreover there were so many botanical and
zoological observations to make — clumps of slender tree-
trunks huddled together like bunches of faggots, unknown
flowering shrubs, humming-birds, doves of a brilliant pink
— that, by sundown, they were not much more than half
way through the wood, and the horses were too knocked
up to go further. Two of the younger men took their
guns and went in quest of supper, while the rest pitched
the little black, portable tents which had been brought in
case of emergency. The hunters soon returned with a
few small birds as well as with the unwelcome intelHgence
that they had been followed by three Arabs, and had
come across an encampment of more than fifty. Young
de Saulcy was quite certain that he had seen one of these
followers among those who had previously spied on them.
"In that case our lives are not worth a piastre, for they
intend to avenge the death of their comrade," said the
Greek cook, a born coward and rogue. " We had better
flee before it is too late, Messieurs." 326

GIFTS FROM BEDAWlN
"You can do so," said M. de Saulcy; "we shall stay
where we are."
For that matter, no other course was open to them.
With care they could keep an enemy at a distance as
long as they remained in camp; while to go forward,
when it would soon be too dark to see the path, might
be suicide.
While they were debating, a sheik and three followers
came in sight, apparently on a peaceful mission, for,
instead of carrying guns, they bore between them the
carcases of a couple of sheep, which, on entering the
camp, they begged the strangers to accept. De Saulcy,
wisely or unwisely, took the gift and asked to be allowed
to make some present in return ; but, to his astonish
ment, this was refused with many salaams and grins of
politeness. " We have frightened ourselves for nothing," said the
Abbe when the bedawin had departed. " But — hoik !
Who are these ? "
Entered a second sheik with half-a-dozen followers,
bearing goat's milk and dates. This sheik was more
talkative than the other. After asking a few of the
personal questions to which the Arabs are addicted, be
solemnly warned the travellers against having any deal
ings with the donors of the mutton ; they were thieves,
cut-throats, everything that was bad; and the noble
Frangi would do well to engage himself and his tribe
as guides for the morrow ; then he too withdrew, refusing
any return gift.
" These fellows are a great deal too obliging to please
me," said de Saulcy; and, to guard against surprise
327

BRIBING THE SHEIK
during the night, he divided his company into two parts ;
one to watch while the other slept, and vice versa). But
this precaution turned out to be needless, for nothing
more was heard of their neighbours till the foUowing
morning, though the Abbe declared that during his watch
he had seen dark forms gliding among the trees round
the camp. Soon after the Frenchmen had breakfasted,
Arabs began to hang about near the tents, this time
not unarmed. Pretending not to notice them, de Saulcy
ordered tents to be struck ; but as soon as Said began to
collect the baggage-mules, one of the bedawin approached
and roughly told him that the foreigners could not depart
without his sheik's permission ; and, as though the words
were a signal, the bystanders set up an angry howl and
brandished spears or muskets threateningly. Evidently
these gentry must be either fought or bribed.
" Go and fetch your sheik," cried de Saulcy impatiently.
The first sheik soon put in an appearance ; all poHte-
ness, it is true, but clearly resolved to get what he could
out of his prey. He began by hinting that he had
thought over the strangers' kind offer of presents and
had decided to accept whatever they might be disposed
to give — not for himself, Allah forbid ! but for his
wives. " How many have you ? " asked de Saulcy curtly.
"Two."The Frenchmen had brought a store of cheap jewellery
to be used as presents and bribes, and from this the
leader took a handful of brooches for each wife, and the
sheik on receiving them departed, louting low, followed
by about half the interlopers. But before he was out
328

MORE PRESENTS
of sight he and his men returned after a moment's
colloquy. " I forgot to mention," he said, " that I am about to
take a third wife ; shall she have nothing ? "
One of the Frenchmen took from his saddle-bag a case
containing two bracelets, one of which he offered to the
chief, who again bowed and called off his men.
In a few minutes sheik number two arrived. What
did he want ? Oh, nothing ; he had only called to say
that he would on no account accept any present, but he
would be glad if the strangers would settle their little bill
for hospitality received, as his tribe were poor men and
times were bad. How much ? Well ; his tribe feared
God, and insisted that the milk and fruit were only worth
a thousand piastres (£8), and would not take a farthing
more ; — the sheik's demeanour implied " or less."
"Haggle with them," whispered Said. De Saulcy
haggled, and finally persuaded the sheik to promise with
drawal on payment of five hundred piastres.
"Now I suppose we are free," he said, as the last of
the bedawin disappeared.
" Not yet," said his son. " Look."
Sure enough sheik number one and his band were
coming back. The robber-chief advanced holding the
bracelet tightly in his hand, yet seeming to offer to
return it.
"My future wife says she will not accept such a
trumpery gift," he said blandly. "If she cannot have
the pair she will take nothing."
"Give him the other one," said de Saulcy, scarcely
able to keep his hands off the covetous scoundrel. Once
329

EXASPERATION
more the sheik and his bedawin made off, but this time
not out of sight, for the second batch of ruffians had
re-appeared, and the two companies were parleying.
" Please Heaven they are now going to fight among
themselves," said Pere Michon devoutly.
But they were not. After a short palaver they joined
forces, and, in a body, walked hurriedly towards the
camp. " No more trifling," cried de Saulcy. " Get ready to
fire on them when I give the word."
The Arabs stopped at some twenty paces from the
tents, with a good deal of shouting and clashing of arms,
while their two leaders came forward together.
" We have come," said one of them, " to ask a sum of
money for the relations of the poor man whom your
people killed many miles away. Our tribesmen wfll not
be satisfied with anything less than  "
The sentence was never finished. A succession of shrill
whistles came from the bedawin camp, and, Hke Hght-
ning, every one of the thieves turned and fled towards
the place where their horses were grazing, while down
the forest-track came a party of fifty light-armed Turkish
cavalry riding at their ease.
In two minutes de Saulcy had explained the position
of affairs, and, though the soldiers showed no disposition
to pursue the robbers, they willingly consented, for a
small sum, to act as body-guard to the expedition till it
was out of dangerous country.

Richard Clay Jt Sow, Limited, London and Bungay.

THE ROMANCE OF THE
ANIMAL WORLD
DESCRIBING THE CURIOUS AND INTERESTING IN NATURAL HISTORY
By EDMUND SELOUS
With Sixteen full-page Illustrations
"Mr. Selous takes a wide range in Nature, he has seen many wonders which ha
relates. Open the book where we will we find something astonishing."— Spectator.
"It is in truth a most fascinating book, as full of incidents and as various in
interest as any other work of imagination, and, beyond the pleasure in the reading
there is the satisfaction of knowing that one is in the hands of a genuine authority on
some of the most picturesque subjects that natural history affords. Mr. Selous'
method is strong, safe, and sound. The volume has numerous illustrations of a high
order of workmanship and a handsome binding of striking design.
School Government Ch/ronioU.
"This is a very fascinating volume, full of picturesquely written descriptions of the
life, habits, and customs of a number of birds and beasts, including beavers, seals
bears, penguins, crocodiles, and a host of other creatures. "—Graphic,
"A fund of information and amusement will be found in the pages of this hand
somely bound book. From the lowest animals of all, the Infusoria, to the lion and
the elephant, all come within the range of Mr. Selous' observation, and he builds up
out of the vast material at his disposal a very readable narrative. The illustrations
are carefully drawn, and are very true to nature."— Education.
" The volume would make an excellent present for an intelligent boy, being full of
interesting and sometimes thrilling stories from the wide field of natural history. It
iB well written in a clear, easy style which is to be commended. Mr. Edmund Selous
has made a most interesting collection of striking facts, and the book has one of the
prettiest covers that I have seen."— Daily News.
THE ROMANCE OF
MODERN EXPLORATION
WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF CURIOUS CUSTOMS, THRILLING ADVKNTURKS, AND
INTERESTING DISCOVERIES OF EXPLORERS IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD
By ARCHIBALD WILLIAMS, F.R.G.S.
With Twenty-six Illustrations
"A mine of information and stirring incident."— Scotsman.
"Mr. Williams is most catholic in his choice, taking his readers to soar in a balloon
with the luckless Andree, to wander in African forests and Australian deserts, to seek
for the North Pole with Nansen, and even to note such an up-to-date expedition as
that of the ' Discovery' in the Antarctic Regions, to cite but the most prominent. Mr.
Williams has done this work most judiciously, ... a book which will delight
both young and old alike." — Graphic.
" The book unites strong natural attractiveness with valuable geographical informa
tion to a degree probably unequalled by any other that might be offered as appropriate
for the purpose of a gift book or the recreative library. "—School Government Chronicle.
"It is a kind of epitome of the best travel books of our time, and is exceedingly
well done."— Academy.
SEELEY & CO., Ltd., 38 Great Russell Street.

THE ROMANCE OF INSECT LIFE
DESCRIBING THE CURIOUS &• INTERESTING IN THE INSECT WORLD
By EDMUND SELOUS
AUTHOR OF "THE ROMANCE OF THI ANIMAL WORLD," ETC
With Sixteen Illustrations. Extra Crown 8vo. 5s.
"An entertaining volume, one more of a series which seeks with much success to
describe the wonders of nature and science in simple, attractive form." — Graphic.
"Offers most interesting descriptions of the strange and curious inhabitants of the
insect world, sure to excite inquiry and to foster observation. There are ants white
and yellow, locusts and cicadas, bees and butterflies, spiders and beetles, scorpions
and cockroaches — and especially ants— with a really scientific investigation of their
wonderful habits not in dry detail, but in free and charming exposition and narrative.
An admirable book to put in the hands of a boy or girl with a turn for natural science
— and whether or not.— Educational Tim**.
"Both interesting and instructive. Such a work as this is genuinely educative.
There are numerous illustrations." — Liverpool Courier.
"With beautiful original drawings by Carton Moore Park and Lancelot Speed, and
effectively bound in dark blue cloth, blazoned with scarlet and gold.'' — Lady.
" Admirably written and handsomely produced. Mr. Selous's volume shows careful
research, and the illustrations of insects and the results of their powers are well
done." — World.
THE ROMANCE OF MODERN
MECHANISM
INTERESTING DESCRIPTIONS IN NON-TECHNICAL LANGUAGE Or WONDERFUL
MACHINERY, MECHANICAL DEVICES, Sf MARVELLOUSLY DELICATE
SCIENTIFIC INSTRUMENTS
By ARCHIBALD WILLIAMS
AUTHOR OF "THE ROMANCE OF MODERN EXPLORATION," ETC.
With Twenty-six Illustrations. Extra Crown 8vo. 5s.
"No boy will be able to resist the delights of this book, full to the brim of instruc
tive and wonderful matter." — British Weekly.
" This book has kept your reviewer awake when he reasonably expected to be other
wise engaged. We do not remember coming across a more fascinating volume, even to
a somewhat blase reader whose business it is to read all that comes in his way. The
marvels, miracles they should be called, of the modern workshop are here exploited by
Mr. Williams for the benefit of readers who have not the opportunity of seeing these
wonders or the necessary mathematical knowledge to understand a scientific treatise
on their working. Only the simplest language is used and every effort is made, by
illustration or by analogy, to make sufficiently clear to the non-scientific reader how
the particular bit of machinery works and what its work really is. Delicate instru
ments, calculating machines, workshop machinery, portable tools, the pedrail, motors
ashore and afloat, fire engines, automatic machines, sculpturing machines — these are
a few of the chapters which crowd this splendid volume." — Educational News.
" It is difficult to make descriptions of machinery and mechanism interesting, but
Mr. Williams has the enviable knack of doing so, and it is hardly possible to open this
book at any page without turning up something which you feel you must read ; and
then you cannot stop till you come to the end of the chapter." — Electricity.
" This book is full of interest and instruction, and is a welcome addition to Messrs.
Seeley and Company's Romance Series." — Leeds Mercury.
"A book of absorbing interest for the boy with a mechanical turn, and indeed for
the general reader." — Educational Times.
"An instructive and well-written volume." — Hobbies.
SEELEY <5r* CO., Ltd., 38 Great Russell Street

THE ROMANCE OF
MODERN ELECTRICITY
DESCRIBING IN NON-TECHNICAL LANGUAGE WHAT IS KNOWN ABOUT
ELECTRICITY &» MANY OF ITS INTERESTING APPLICATIONS
By CHARLES R. GIBSON, A.I.E.E.
AUTHOR OF "ELECTRICITY OF TO-DAY," ETC.
Extra Crown 8vo, With 34 Illustrations and 11 Diagrams, 5s.
"Everywhere Mr. Charles R. Gibson makes admirable use of simple analogies which
bespeak the practised lecturer, and bring the matter home without technical detail.
The attention is further sustained by a series of surprises. The description of
electric unite, the volt, the ohm, and especially the ampere, is better than we have
found in more pretentious works." — Academy.
"Mr. Gibson's style is very unlike the ordinary text-book. It is fresh, and is non
technical. Its facts are strictly scientific, however, and thoroughly up to date. If we
wish to gain a thorough knowledge of electricity pleasantly and without too much
trouble on our own part, we will read Mr. Gibson's ' Romance.' " — Expository Times.
"A book which the merest tyro totally unacquainted with elementary electrical
principles can understand, and should therefore especially appeal to the lay reader.
Especial interest attaches to the chapter on wireless telegraphy, a subject which
¦is apt to ' floor ' the uninitiated. The author reduces the subject to its simplest aspect,
and describes the fundamental principles underlying the action of the coherer in lan
guage so simple that anyone can grasp them." — Electricity.
"Contains a clear and concise account of the various forms in which electricity is
used at the present day, and the working of the telephone, wireless telegraphy,
tramcars, and dynamos is explained with tho greatest possible lucidity, while the
marvels of the X-rays and of radium receive their due notice. Now that electricity
plays such an all-important part in our daily life, such a book as this should be in the
hands of every boy. Indeed, older people would learn much from its pages. For
instance, how few people could explain the principles of wireless telegraphy in a
few words if suddenly questioned on the subject. The book is well and appropriately
illustrated. " — Graphic.
"Mr. Gibson sets out to describe in non-technical language the marvellous dis
coveries and adaptation of this pervasive and powerful essence, and being a most
thorough master of the subject, he leads the reader through its mazes with a sure
hand. Throughout he preset * es a clear and authoritative style of exposition which
will be understood by any intelligent reader."— Yorkshire Observer.
"A popular and eminently readable manual for those interested in electrical appli
ances. It describes in simple and non-technical language what is known about
electricity and many of its interesting applications. There are a number of capital
illustrations and diagrams which will help the reader greatly in the study of the
book."— Record.
SEELEY & CO., Ltd., 38 Great Russell Street

WORKS BY C. J. CORNISH.
THE NATURALIST ON THE THAMES. With Thirty-
eight Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.
' ' Will give great delight to any lover of natural history. ... It is a
most fascinating volume, and is illustrated in a manner worthy of the
text." — Scotsman.
ANIMALS OF TO-DAY : Their Life and Conversation. With
Illustrations from Photographs by C. Reid. Crown 8 vo. 6s.
"Quite one of the brightest books of popular natural history which
have appeared in recent years is Mr. Cornish's fascinating studies of
' Animals of To-day.' " — Leeds Mercury.
NIGHTS WITH AN OLD GUNNER, and other Studies
of Wild Life. With Sixteen Illustrations. 6s.
" Cannot fail to be interesting to any lover of wild nature. The illus
trations are numerous and excellent." — Pall Mall Gazette.
ANIMALS AT WORK AND PLAY: Their Emotions
and Activities. Illustrated from Photographs by Gambiee
Bolton, F.Z.S., and others, and from Drawings. Third
Edition. 6 s.
"Such a book as Mr. Cornish's shows how much there is to repay the
intelligent observer of Nature." — Times.
WILD ENGLAND OF TO-DAY, and the Wild Life in It.
Illustrated with Original Drawings by Lancelot Speed,
and from Photographs. Third Edition. 6s.
' ' Those of us who are left in town in the dull days will seem, in reading
these pages, to sniff the fresh sea-breezes, to hear the cries of the sea-bird
and the songs of the wood-bird, to be conscious of the murmuring stream
and waving forests, and all the wild life that is therein." — St. James's Gazette.
LIFE AT THE ZOO. Notes and Traditions of the Regent's
Park Gardens. Illustrated from Photographs by Gambieh
Bolton, F.Z.S. Fifth Edition. 6s.
"Every lover of animals will find abundance of attraction and enter
tainment in Mr. Cornish's delightful volume." — Times.
THE NEW FOREST. With many Illustrations. New
Edition. 16mo. Cloth, 2s. net ; or leather, 3s. net.
Also super royal 8vo. With Four Copper-plates. Half-
linen. 3s. 6d. net.
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. With Four Copper-plates and
many other Illustrations. Super royal 8vo. Half-linen.
3s. 6d. net.

SEELEY & CO., Ltd., 38 Great Russell Street.

events of our own time.
A Series of Volumes on the most Important Events ofthe last Half-
Century, each containing 320 pages or more, with Plans, Portraits,
or other Illustrations, in extra Crown, Bvo. Cloth, 5s.
THE WAR IN THE CRIMEA. By General Sir Edward
Hamlet, K.C.B. With Five Maps and Plans, and Four
Portraits on Copper. Seventh Edition.
THE INDIAN MUTINY OF 1857. By Colonel Malleson,
C.S.I. With Three Plans, and Four Portraits on Copper.
Seventh Edition.
THE AFGHAN WARS OF 1839-1842 and 1878-1880. By
Archibald Forbes. With Five Maps and Plans, and Four
Portraits on Copper. Third Edition.
THE REFOUNDING OF THE GERMAN EMPIRE. By
Colonel Malleson, C.S.I. With Five Maps and Plans, and
Four Portraits on Copper.
THE LIBERATION OF ITALY, 1815-1870. By the Countess
Martinenqo Cesaresco. With Portraits on Copper. Second
Edition.
OUR FLEET TO-DAY AND ITS DEVELOPMENT DURING
THE LAST HALF- CENTURY. By Rear -Admiral S.
Eahdley Wilmot. With many Illustrations. New Edition.

Uniform with the above.
THE WAR IN THE PENINSULA. By Alexander Innks
Shand. With Four Portraits on Copper, and Six Plans. 5s.
"Admirably lucid and well proportioned." — Glasgow Herald.
GREAT BRITAIN IN MODERN AFRICA. By Edgar
Sanderson, M.A., Author of a " History of England and the
British Empire." With Four Portraits on Copper and \
Map. 5s.

SEELEY & CO., Ltd., 38 Great Russell Street.

POPULAR SCIENCE.
THE GREAT WORLD'S FARM. Some Account of Nature's
Crops and How they are Grown. By Selina Gave. With
a Preface by Professor Boulger. With Sixteen Illustrations.
Second Edition. 5s.
"A fascinating volume of popular science." — Times.
SUN, MOON, AND STARS. A Book on Astronomy for Be
ginners. By Agnes Giberne. With Coloured Illustrations.
Twenty-fifth Thousand. 5s.
THE WORLD'S FOUNDATIONS. Geology for Beginners. By
Agnes Giberne. With Illustrations. Seventh Thousand. 6s.
" The exposition is clear ; the style simple and attractive." — Spectator.
THE OCEAN OF AIR. Meteorology for Beginners. By Agnes
Giberne. With Illustrations. Fifth Thousand. 5s.
' ' Miss Giberne can be accurate without being formidable, and unites a
keen sense of the difficulties of beginners to a full comprehension of the
matter in hand." — Saturday Review.
AMONG THE STARS; or, Wonderful Things in the Sky.
By Agnes Giberne. With Coloured Illustrations. Seventh
Thousand. 5s.
" An attempt to teach astronomy to small children ... it is very well
done." — Saturday Review.
THE STORY OF THE HILLS : A Popular Account of Moun
tains and How they were Made. By the Rev. H. N. Hutchin
son, F.G.S. With many Illustrations. 5s.
"A charmingly written and beautifully illustrated account of the
making of the mountains." — Yorkshire Post.
WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY. Popularly Explained. By Richard
Kerr, F.G.S. With Preface by Sir W. H. Preece, K.C.B.,
F.R.S., and many Illustrations. Sixth Edition, Revised.
Is. 6d.
"The author has achieved conspicuous success in his attempt to give
the general public a good understanding of the principles underlying
the various systems of wireless telegraphy. Capitally illustrated." —
Athenaeum.

SEELEY & CO., Ltd., 38 Great Russell Street.

A Catalogue of Books for Young
People, Published by Seeley & Co
Ltd., 38 Great Russell St., London

Some of the Contents

The Library of Romance
The Library of Adventure
The Olive Library
The Pink Library
The Scarlet Library
Sunday Echoes .
Stories by Professor Church
Stories by Mrs. Marshall
Stories by Miss Marshall
Books by Miss Giberne

13 1310 1 1
14 2 3
9 8
7

The Publishers will be pleased to send post free their complete
Catalogue or their Illustrated ^Miniature Catalogue
on receipt of a post-card

CATALOGUE OF BOOKS
Arranged alphabetically under the names of
Authors and Series
AGUILAR, GRACE.
The Days Of Bruce. With Illustrations. Extra Crown
8vo, is. (Scarlet Library.)
ANDERSEN, HANS.
Fairy Tales. With Illustrations. 2b. (Scarlet Library.)
ALCOTT, L. M.
Little Women and Good Wives. With Illustrations. 2s.
(Scarlet Library.)
Arabian Nights' Entertainments. With Illustrations. 2s.
(Scarlet Library.)
BERTHET, E.
The Wild Man Of the Woods. With Illustrations, is. 6d.
(Pink Library.)
BLAKE, M. M.
The Siege Of Norwich Castle. With Illustrations. Crown
8vo, 5s.
BRAMSTON, M.
The Wild Lass of Estmere, and other Stories. Cr. 8vo, 3s. 6d.
BROCK, Mrs. CAREY.
The Bird's Nest, and other Songs for Children, is.
Children at Home. Crown 8vo, 5s.
Dame Wynton's Home. A Story Illustrative of the Lord's
Prayer. New Edition. With Eight Illustrations. Crown 8vo, is. 6d.
Home Memories. Crown 8vo, 5s.
My Father's Hand, and other Stories. Crown 8vo, 2s.
Sunday Echoes in Weekday Hours. A Series of Illustra
tive Tales. Eight Vols. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. each.
I. The Collects,
II. The Church Catechism

III. Journeying^ ofthe Israelites.
IV. Scripture Characters,

V. The Epistles and Gospels.
VI. The Parables.
VII. The Miracles.
VIII. The Example of Christ.
The Violets Of Montmartre. From the French of Madame
Bersier. Crown 8vo, 5s.
Working and Waiting. Crown 8vo, 5s.
2

Seeley £p Co Limited
BROWN LINNET.
The Kidnapping Of Ettie, and other Tales. With Sixteen
Illustrations. Crown 8vo, Js.
Widow Wiley, and some other Old Folk. With many
Illustrations. Crown 8vo, js.
BUN YAN, JOHN.
The Pilgrim's Progress. With Illustrations. Extra crown
8vo, is. (Scarlet Library.)
CARTER, Miss J. R. M.
Diana Polwarth, Royalist. A Story of the Life of a Girl
in Commonwealth Days. With Eight Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.
CHARLESWORTH, Miss.
England's Yeomen. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.
Oliver of the Mill. With Eight Illustrations. Crown 8vo,
2s. 6d.
Ministering Children.
1. With a Memoir of the Author and Sixteen Illustrations. Crown
8vo, cloth gilt, gilt edges, 3s. 6d.
1. Olive Library. Cloth gilt, 2s. 6d.
3. Scarlet Library. Cloth, 2s.
4. With Four Illustrations. Cloth, is. 6d.
Ministering Children : A Sequel. With Illustrations.
Cloth, is. 6d. Also with Eight Illustrations. Cloth gilt, 2s. 6d.
The Old Looking-Glass. Crown 8vo, is.
The Broken Looking-Glass. Crown 8vo, is.
The Old Looking-Glass and the Broken Looking-
Glass ; or, Mrs. Dorothy Cope's Recollections of Service. In one volume.
With Eight Illustrations. Crown 8vo, is. 6d.
Sunday Afternoons in the Nursery. With Illustra
tions. 2S. 6d.
CHURCH, Rev. ALFRED J., formerly Professor of
Latin in University College, London.
" Professor Church's skill, his oversowing knowledge, and above all, that
cultured simplicity of style, in respect of which he has absolutely no rival among
contemporary writers for boys, enable him to overcome all obstacles." — Spectator.
Extra crown 8vo, 5/" each.
The Children's Iliad. With Twelve Illustrations in Colour.
Extra crown 8vo. 5s. Just published.
The Children's Odyssey. Told for Little Children. With
Twelve Illustrations in Colour. Extra crown 8vo, 5s.
The Crown Of Pine. A Story of Corinth and the Isthmian
Games. With Illustration in Colour by George Morrow. Ex. cr. 8 vo, 5s.
3

Seeley & Co Limited
CHURCH, Rev. ALFRED J.— Continued.
The Count of the Saxon Shore. A Tale of the Departure
of the Romans from Britain. With Sixteen Illustrations. Crown 8vo, js.
Stories of Charlemagne and the Twelve Peers of
France. With Eight Illustrations in Colours. Crown 8vo, 5s.
The Crusaders. A Story of the War for the Holy Sepulchre.
With Eight Illustrations in Colour, Extra crown 8vo, 5s.
Stories from the Greek Tragedians. With Illustrations.
Crown 8vo, 5s.
Greek Story. With Sixteen Illustrations in Colour. Crown
8vo, 5s.
Stories from the Greek Comedians. With Illustrations.
Crown 8vo, 5s.
The Hammer. A Story of Maccabean Times. With Illus
trations. Crown 8vo, 5s.
The Story of the Persian War, from Herodotus. With
Coloured Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 5s.
Heroes of Chivalry and Romance. With Illustrations.
Crown 8vo, 5s.
Stories of the East, from Herodotus. Coloured Illustrations.
Crown 8vo, 5s.
Helmet and Spear. Stories from the Wars of the Greeks and
Romans. With Eight Illustrations by G. Morrow. Crown 8vo, 5s.
The Story Of the Iliad. With Coloured Illustrations. Crown
8vo, 5s. Also thin Paper Edition, cloth, 2s. nett ; leather, 3s. nett.
Cheap Edition, 6d. nett ; also cloth, is.
Roman Life in the Days of Cicero. With Illustrations.
Crown 8vo, 5s.
Stories from Homer. With Coloured Illustrations. Crown
8vo, 5».
Stories from Livy. With Coloured Illustrations. Crown
8vo, 5s.
Story of the Odyssey. With Coloured Illustrations. 5s.
Also thin Paper Edition, cloth, is. nett; leather, 3s. nett. Cheap Edition,
6d. nett. Also cloth, is.
Stories from Virgil. With Coloured Illustrations. Crown
8vo, 5s. Cheap edition, sewed, 6d. nett.
With the King at Oxford. A Story ofthe Great Rebellion.
With Coloured Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 5s.
4

Seeley SP Co Limited
CHURCH, Rev. ALFRED J.— Continued.
Crown 8vo, 3/6 each.
The Fall Of Athens. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.
The Burning of Rome. A Story of Nero's Days. With
Sixteen Illustrations. Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.
The Last Days of Jerusalem, from Josephus. Crown 8vo.
3s. 6d. Also a Cheap Edition. Sewed, 6d.
Stories from English History. With many Illustrations.
Cheaper Edition. Revised. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.
Three Greek Children. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.
Small 8vo, 2/- and 3/- nett.
The Story of the Iliad. Cloth, Illustrated, 2s. nett ; leather,
3s. nett.
The Story of the Odyssey. Cloth, Illustrated, 2s. nett;
leather, 38. nett. Extra crown 8vo, 2/6 each.
To the Lions- A Tale of the Early Christians. With
Coloured Frontispiece and other Illustrations, is. 6d.
Heroes of Eastern Romance. With Coloured Frontis
piece and Eight other Illustrations. Extra crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.
A Young Macedonian in the Army of Alexander the
Great. With Illustrations. Extra crown 8vo, 26. 6d.
The Chantry Priest. A Story of the Wars of the Two Roses.
With Illustrations. Extra crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.
Crown 8vo, 1/6 each.
A Greek Gulliver. Illustrated. Crown 8vo, is. 6d.
Heroes and Kings. Stories from the Greek. Illustrated.
Small 4to, is. 6d.
The Stories of the Iliad and the ^Eneid. With Illustra
tions. i6mo, sewed, is. ; cloth, is. 6d. Also without Illustrations, cloth,
is. (Cheap School Series.)
To the Lions. A Tale of the Early Christians. With Illus
trations. Crown 8vo, is. 6d.
COUPIN, H., D.Sc, and J. LEA, B.A.
The Romance of Animal Arts and Crafts. Describing
the Wonderful Intelligence of Animals displayed in their work as Masons,
Paper Makers, Thread Spinners, Raft and Diving-Bell Builders, Miners,
Tailors, and Engineers, &c, &c. With Twenty-five Illustrations. Extra
crown 8vo, 5s.
"Will carry most readers, young and old, from one surprise to another."—
Glasgow Herald. 5

Seeley & Co Limited
COWPER, F.
Csedwalla : or, The Saxons in the Isle of Wight. With Illustra
tions. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, Js.
The Island of the English. A Story of Napoleon's Days.
With Illustrations by George Morrow. Crown 8vo, 28. 6d.
The Captain of the Wight. With Illustrations. Extra
crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.
CRAIK, Mrs.
John Halifax. With Illustrations. Extra crown 8vo, 2s.
(Scarlet Library.)
DAWSON, Rev. Canon E. C.
Lion-Hearted. Bishop Hannington's Life Retold for Boys
and Girls. Illustrated. Crown 8vo, is. 6d. (Olive Librart), and is. 6d.
(Pink Library).
In the Days of the Dragons. Crown 8vo, is. 6d.
DEFOE, DANIEL.
Robinson Crusoe. With Illustrations. Extra Crown 8vo,
is. (Scarlet Library.)
ELLIOTT, Miss.
Copsley Annals Preserved in Proverbs. With Illustra
tions. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.
Mrs. Blackett. Her Story. Fcap. 8vo, is.
ELLIOT, Prof. G. F. SCOTT, M.A., B.Sc.
The Romance Of Plant Life. Describing the curious and
interesting in the Plant World. With Thirty-four Illustrations. Extra
crown 8vo, 5s.
" Popularly written by a man of great scientific accomplishments."— The
Outlook.
The Romance Of Savage Life. With Illustrations. Extra
Crown 8v0, 5s.
FIELD, Rev. CLAUD, M.A.
Heroes of Missionary Enterprise. With many Illustrations.
Extra crown 8vo, 58.
GARDINER, LINDA.
Sylvia in Flowerland. With Sixteen Illustrations by Herbert
E. Butler. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.
GAYE, SELINA.
Coming; or, The Golden Year. A Tale. Third Edition.
With Eight Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 5s.
The Great World's Farm. Some Account of Nature's
Crops and How they are Grown. With a Preface by Professor Boulqer,
and Sixteen Illustrations, Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 5s.
6

Seeley & Co Limited
GIBERNE, AGNES.
The Romance of the Mighty Deep. With Illustrations.
"Most fascinating." — Daily News.
Among the Stars j or, Wonderful Things in the Sky. With
Coloured Illustrations. Eighth Thousand. Crown 8vo, Js.
Duties and Duties. Crown 8vo, 5s.
Father Aldur. A Water Story. Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 5s.
The Curate's Home. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.
The Ocean of Air. Meteorology for Beginners. Illustrated.
Crown 8vo, 5s.
The Starry Skies. First Lessons on Astronomy. With
Illustrations. Crown 8vo, is. 6d.
Sun, Moon, and Stars. Astronomy for Beginners. With a
Preface by Professor Pritchard. With Coloured Illustrations. Twenty-
sixth Thousand. Revised and Enlarged. Crown 8vo, Js.
The World's Foundations. Geology for Beginners. With
Illustrations. Crown 8vo, js.
GIBSON, CHARLES R., A.I.E.E.
The Romance of Modern Electricity. Describing in
non-technical language what is known about electricity and many of its
interesting applications. With Forty-one Illustrations. Ex. crown 8vo, js.
"Admirable . . . clear, concise."— The Graphic.
The Romance of Modern Photography. The Discovery
and its Application. With many Illustrations, Extra Crown 8vo, js.
GILLIAT, E.
Forest Outlaws. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, js.
In Lincoln Green. Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 5s.
The King's Reeve. Illustrated by Sydney Hall. Crown
8vo, 3s. 6d.
Wolf's Head. A Story of the Prince of Outlaws. With
Eight Illustrations. Crown 8vo, js.
GOLDEN RECITER, THE. See Reciters, The Golden,
P. 11.
GRIMM'S FAIRY TALES. With Illustrations. Extra Crown
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Adventures in the Great Deserts. Romantic Incidents
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The Little Colonel in Arizona. A Story for Girls. With
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KINGSLEY, CHARLES.
Westward Ho ! With Illustrations. Extra Crown 8vo, 2s.
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Tales from Shakespeare. With Illustrations. Ex. Crown
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MARSHALL, BEATRICE.
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In Colston's Days. A Story of Old Bristol. With Illustra
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Joanna's Inheritance. Crown 8vo, 38. 6d.
Life's Aftermath. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. Cheap Edition, Demy
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The Old Gateway.
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CHARLESWORTH, Miss.
Ministering Children.
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Lion-Hearted.
WILBERFORCE, Bishop.
Agathos and The Rocky Island.
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Dame Wynton's Home.
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The Cabin on the Beach. By M. E. Winchester.
The Captain of the Wight. By Frank Cowfer.

RAILTON, Mrs. H.
Lily and the Lift, and other Fairy Stories. With Illustrations
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RECITER, THE GOLDEN. A volume of Recitations c5*
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RECITER, THE GOLDEN HUMOROUS. Edited, and
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ROBINSON, Commander C. N.
For the Honour of the Flag. A Story of our Sea Fights
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SANDERSON, Rev- E.
Heroes of Pioneering. True Stories ofthe Intrepid Bravery
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Adventures on the Great Rivers. With Sixteen Illus
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Adventures on the High Mountains. With Sixteen
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THE LIBRARY OF ADVENTURE
With many Illustrations. Extra Crown 8vo, 5s. each.
"Delightful books of adventure, beautifully printed and tastefully got up."—
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Adventures in the Great Deserts. By G. W. F. Hyrst.
With Sixteen Illustrations.
"As stirring as any story of fictitious adventure."— Glasgow Herald.
Adventures on the Great Rivers. By Richard Stead.
With Sixteen Illustrations.
" A wealth of healthy excitement and genuine enjoyment."— Northern Whig.
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The Romance of Modern Photography. Its Discovery
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The Romance of Modern Sieges. By the Rev. E.
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The Romance of Savage Life. By Professor G. F. Scott
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The Romance of the World's Fisheries. By Sidney
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The Romance of Animal Arts 6* Crafts. ByH. Coupin,
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" Extremely fascinating." — Liverpool Courier.
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The Romance of Missionary Heroism. By John C
Lambert, B.A., D.D. With 39 Illustrations.
" About 350 pages of the most thrilling missionary lives ever collected in one
volume." — Methodist Times.
The Romance of Plant Life. By Prof. G. F. Scorr Elliot,
B.A. (Cantab.), B.Sc. (Edin.). With 34 Illustrations.
" Besides being entertaining, instructive and educative." — Liverpool Courier.
The Romance of Polar Exploration. By G. Firth
Scott. With 14 Illustrations. "Thrillingly interesting."— Liverpool Courier.
The Romance of Insect Life. By Edmund Selous.
The Romance of Modern Mechanism. By A. Williams.
"Genuinely fascinating. Mr. Williams is an old favourite." — L'pool Courier.
The Romance of Modern Electricity. By Charles R.
Gibson, A.I.E.E. "Admirable . . . clear and concise." — The Graphic
The Romance of the Animal World. By Edmund Selous.
"A very fascinating book."— Graphic.
The Romance of Modern Exploration. By A. Williams.
" A mine of information and stirring incident." — Scotsman.
The Romance of Modern Invention. By A. Williams.
" An ideal gift book for boys, fascinatingly interesting."— Queen.
The Romance of Modern Engineering. By A.Williams.
" An absorbing work with Its graphic descriptions." — Standard.
The Romance of Modern Locomotion. By A. Williams.
"Crisply written, brimful of incident not less than instruction. Should be as
welcome as a Ballantyne story or a Mayne Reid romance." — Glasgow Herald.
The Romance of Modern Mining. By A. Williams.
" Boys will revel in this volume." — City Press.
The Romance Of the Mighty Deep. By Agnes Giberne.
" Most fascinating." — Daily News.

SCARLET LIBRARY, THE ILLUSTRATED. Large
crown 8vo, cloth, gilt. With Eight original Illustrations by H. M.
Brock, Lancelot Speed, and other leading Artists. Price is. per volume.
The Pilgrim's Progress. By John Bunyan.
The Wide, Wide World. By Susan Warner
Uncle Tom's Cabin. By H. Beecher Stowe.
Ben Hur. By General Lew Wallace.
Westward Ho 1 By Charles Kingsley.
John Halifax. By Mrs. Craik.
Robinson Crusoe. By Daniel Defoe.
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SCARLET LIBRARY, THE— Continued.
Little Women and Good Wives. By L. M. Alcott.
The History of Henry Esmond. By W. m. Thackeray.
The Swiss Family Robinson.
Grimm's Fairy Tales. A new Translation.
Poe's Tales of Mystery and Imagination.
Don Quixote. By Cervantes.
Gulliver's Travels. By Jonathan Swift.
The Days of Bruce. By Grace Aguilar.
Tom Brown's Schooldays. By Thomas Hughes.
Hans Andersen's Fairy Tales.
Tales from Shakespeare. By Charles Lamb.
The Arabian Nights' Entertainments.
The Scalp Hunters. By Captain Mayne Reid.
Ministering Children. By Miss Charlesworth.

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The Romance of Polar Exploration. Illustrated.
Extra crown 8vo, 5s.
"Thrillingly interesting, excellently illustrated."— Liverpool Courier.
SEELEY, A.
This Great Globe. First Lessons in Geography. is. 6d.
SEELEY, M.
The World before the Flood. Stories from the Best Book.
With Illustrations by G. P. Jacomb Hood. Crown 8vo, is. and is. 6d.
SELOUS, E.
The Romance of the Animal World. Illustrated. Ex.
crown 8vo, 5s.
" A very fascinating: book." — Graphic.
The Romance of Insect Life. Illustrated. Ex. cr. 8to, 56.
" Mr. Selous, the well-known naturalist, writes in purely informal style."—
The Globe.
WARD, E.
Fresh from the Fens. With Illustrations. Cr. 8vo, 3s. 6d.
A Pair of Originals. Illustrated. Crown 8yo, 3s. 6d.

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Agathos. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. Cheaper
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Agathos, The Rocky Island, and other Sunday Stories.
With Sixteen Illustrations. Crown 8vo, is. 6d.
The Rocky Island and other Similitudes. With Illus
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WINCHESTER, M. E.
Adrift in a Great City. Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 58.
A City Violet. Crown 8vo, 5s.
The Cabin on the Beach. Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.
A Nest of Skylarks. Crown 8vo, 5s.
A Nest of Sparrows. Crown 8vo, 5s.
Under the Shield. Crown 8vo, 55.
A Wayside Snowdrop. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.
Chirps for the Chicks. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.
WILLIAMS, ARCHIBALD, F.R.G.S.
The Romance of Early Exploration. Illustrated.
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"A companion volume to 'The Romance of Modern Exploration,' and if
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The Romance of Modern Exploration. With 26
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The Romance of Modern Mechanism. With 25 Illus
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" Mr. Williams is an old favourite ; a genuinely fascinating book."— Liverpool
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"An ideal gift book for boys, fascinatingly interesting." — Queen.
The Romance of Modern Engineering. Illustrated.
"An absorbing work with its graphic descriptions." — Standard.
The Romance of Modern Locomotion. Illustrated.
" Crisply written and brimful of incident." — Glasgow Herald.
The Romance of Modern Mining. With 24 Illustrations.
"Boys will revel in this volume." — City Press.
WHITHAM, G. I.
The Last Of the White CoatS. A Story of Cavaliers and
Roundheads. Illustrated in colour by Oscar Wilson. Ex. crown 8vo, ?s. 6d.
WRIGHT, SYDNEY.
The Romance of the World's Fisheries. With many
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