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TRAVELS
LUBISTAN AND ARABISTAN.
BY
THE BAKON C. A. DE BODE.
VOL. I.
" n n'y a point de description de voyage sans defaut, ni aucun voyageur exempt
de tout prejuge, ainsi le parti le plus sage c'est de ne pas defendre ses opinions avec
opiniatrete." — Niebuhr.
INTERIOR OF AN ARAB TENT NEAR THE TOMB OF CYRUS (SOUTHERN PERSIA).
LONDON :
J. MADDEN AND CO., 8, LEADENHALL STREET.
1845.
PREFACE.
If a traveller who had visited Switzerland,
or the banks of the Rhine, or any other part
of Europe, were to think it necessary first
to acquaint the reader where those coun
tries lie, before he entered on the descrip
tion of his travels, he would be consi
dered impertinent, and would, indeed, deserve
censure. But a similar condemnation would by
no means rest on him who, having penetrated
into some obscure regions of the East, should
conceive it necessary to indicate their position
on the map to his countrymen of the West,
before he could expect them to follow him
patiently through the details of his journey.
vol. i. a
IV PREFACE.
Such is the case with the author of the
present volumes, which he has entitled " Travels
in Luristdn and Arabistdn."
With the exception of those who have
travelled in the East, or who have made
geography their particular study, are there
many who know where Luristdn is situated ? or
who will not confound A rabistdn with Arabia?
Nor is it matter of wonder that this should
be the case, considering the scanty sources of
information which we possess concerning those
countries, and the comparative if not total neglect
to which they have been doomed. The author
will, therefore, not be supposed to underrate the
accomplishments of his readers, if he presumes
them to be ignorant of the geographical posi
tion of Luristan and Arabistan, and hopes that
he shall not be taxed with presumption, if he
takes the liberty of giving them a preliminary
insight into those countries.
Luristan, then, or the land of the Lurs,
embraces the greater portion of the moun
tainous country of Persia, extending from the
PREFACE. V
Turkish boundary on the west, to the limits of
Isfahan and Fars on the east and south-east.
These mountains are occupied by an uncouth
and wild race of men, bearing different appella
tions, but apparently springing from one original
stock, — the old Zend.
The low country, lying to the south of this
chain of mountains, with the towns of Shushter,
Dizful, and others, together with the land of
the Cha'b-Arabs, is denominated Khuzistdn or
Arabistdn. These regions, which in general now offer
to the eye the melancholy spectacle of decay,
of devastation, and even spread out at intervals
into utter wildernesses, were not so in former
ages. There was a time when they must have
teemed with an industrious population, as the
vestiges of ruined towns plainly denote.
The names of some of these have survived,
and live in the traditions of the natives ; others
can be recognised in history, but a greater
number lie scattered over the waste, without
leaving any records behind, or bequeathing
a 2
VI PREFACE.
to posterity their names, the nations to which
they belonged, or the time at which they flou
rished. There they crumble into dust, like
bones bleaching on a forgotten field of battle,
or like a solitary plank on the heaving wave,
a sad wreck of some noble vessel sunk in the
unfathomable depths of ocean.
Shushter is greatly fallen from its former
importance. Ahvdz, the winter capital of the
Arsacidce or Parthian kings, is a heap of
ruins. The plough is levelling with the soil
the only remaining mounds which point to
Jondi-Shapur ; while Susa, the rival of Babylon
and Ecbatana, the vernal residence of the King
of Kings, hides its ancient ruins under thick
grass and waving reeds, as if ashamed that
common mortals should see how low it has
fallen from its pristine greatness.
But even prior to the dawn of profane
history, before the sun of Nineveh and Babylon
had risen in the east, Elam, as Scripture tells
us, was already a nation ; whilst in later
clays, the same country, under the name of
PREFACE. Vll
Elymais, attracted towards its rich temples
the cupidity of the Greek and Parthian con
querors. It is with the view of rescuing from a
second oblivion this once classical ground,
that the Author has endeavoured to draw
aside a corner of the veil which still covers
this mysterious region.
The general reader will perhaps blame him
for dwelling on the topographical features of
the country more minutely than the nature
of a common narrative may seem to warrant.
The Author readily admits that he has laid
himself open to this imputation, but believes
it his duty to add, in self-justification, that as
that tract of country has been seldom fre
quented, and may, perhaps, be now again
closed to European travellers, he had rather
in view to state facts than to fill the pages
of his volumes with his own impressions.
Neither must he omit to state, that in his
progress through the more western portion of
the route, he has been often guided and mate-
Ylll PREFACE.
rially aided by the valuable notes of Major
Pawlinson on Khuzistan; and he hopes that
distinguished scholar, with whom he has had
the advantage of meeting more than once in the
East, will pardon him for making frequent quo
tations from those notes in the course of the
present narrative. It is owing to his convic
tion of their great accuracy that he always felt
more confident whenever his own observations
could have the benefit and the concurrent tes
timony of such an authority.
As the early part of the journey from
Teheran to Isfahan, and from thence to Shiraz
and Kazertm, has been frequently visited by
Europeans, the Author has nothing particular
to observe oh that portion of his narrative.
But if the interest created by historical
recollections will absolve the Author from in
troducing ancient Elymais, with its adjacent
countries to the notice of the public, he fears
he has not the same chance in presuming to
address his readers in a language not his own.
His short stay in this country has had the effect
PREFACE. IX
of making him sensible of his deficiencies in
this respect, without giving him time to supply
them. However, the indulgence with which some
extracts from his notes on the East have been
listened to at the Meetings of the Society of
Antiquaries, the Ethnological, and the Royal
Geographical Societies, added to the advice
and encouragement of his friends in this
country, have emboldened him to arrange his
scattered notes in the form now offered to the
public. He owes great obligations to the learned
Secretaries. Colonel. Jackson and the Rev.
Mr. Renouard, as well as to Mr. Shillinglaw,
the Librarian, of the Royal Geographical
Society of London, for the facilities they
have afforded him in his researches, and
the use of the Society's valuable library;
but in particular to the Rev. Mr. Renouard
for his kind assistance in comparing the nar
rative of Timur's march with several manu
scripts of the original work of Sherefu-d-din,
X PREFACE.
in the possession of the Honourable East India
Company. The Author feels a peculiar pleasure in
being able thus publicly to express his hearty
thanks to Mr. J. A. St. John, the eloquent
author of " The Manners and Customs of
the Ancient Greeks," and of " Travels in
the Valley of the Nile," and to his son, Mr.
Bayle St. John, for the patient attention they
have lent him during the perusal of his MS.,
and their judicious hints, of which he has
frequently availed himself.
Neither ought he to allow this opportunity
to pass, without recording his sense of
obligation for the civilities and attentions he
has invariably met with from the gentlemen
of the British Museum, during his attendance
at the Reading Rooms.
THE AUTHOR.
London,
]6th November, 1844.
CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
CHAPTER I.
ROUTE FROM TEHERAN TO KARAVANSERAI OF PULl-DELAUK. Page
Preparations previous to undertaking the journey
from Teheran to Persepolis. — Modes of travelling
in the East contrasted with the conveniences a
traveller meets with in Europe. — Account of the dis
interment of the victims who fell during the mas
sacre of the Russian Mission at Teheran in 1829.
— A thunderstorm in the month of December. —
Inconveniences attending travelling by post at
night 1
CHAPTER II.
FROM PULl-DELAUK TO ISFAHAN.
Mysterious village of Kum-rud. — Persian superstition
about the ghuls, or land mermaids of the Kabir or
Great Desert. — Mr. Morier's account of them. —
Ruined karavanserais of De'ir and Kodj in the
same desert. — Return of the zuvar from a pil
grimage to Mecca and Kerbela'i. — Distinction
between the Meschedi, Kerbela'i, and Hajji. —
Xll CONTENTS.
Page
Relative importance attached to those names. —
Arrival at Kum. — Institution of the chapar-khanehs
or post-stations in Persia. — Remarks on the ruins
of Sinsine. — Melons and wheat grown on the same
beds at Kashan. — Reputed cowardice of the inha
bitants. — They are good coppersmiths. — Velvet
manufacturers of Kashan. — Summer and winter
road to Isfahan. — Kuhrud, with the dyke of Shah-
Abbas. — Account of Kuhrud. — Passage through
the snow. — Buran karavanserai of Ak-Kemel. —
Village of So. — -Night accident on crossing a river.
— Murchehar. — Ghez. — Arrival at Isfahan. ... 20
CHAPTER III.
FROM ISFAHAN TO THE KARAVANSERAI OF DESIBID.
A school established at Julfa for the instruction of the
Armenian youth. — Religions tolerance of the Isfahani
Mussulman clergy. — Reasons for it. — Progress of Suf-
feism. — Lutis of Isfahan. — Bast, or places of refuge.
— Form the project of visiting Shushter and the
mountains of the Bakhtiyaris. — Quit Isfahan. — Kal'eh
Rustam. — Cheshme-Multan. — Mayar. — Brilliant
night meteors. — Kumislieh. — Account of a battle
fought near it at the accession of Mohammed Shah
to the throne. — Gum-ammoniac plant. — Description
of the fortress and village of Yezdehast. — Summer
and winter road to Sliiraz.— Abadeh. — Surnieh. —
Karavanserai of Dehbid 44
CONTENTS. Xlll
CHAPTER IV.
FROM THE KARAVANSERAI OF DEHBID TO THE VILLAGE OF
SEIDAN. PaSe
Arrival at the Village of Meshedi-Murgab. — Arab
Settlers. — Fertility of the Plain of Murgab. — Boun
dary. — River of Murgab, the Medus of the Ancients.
— View of the ruins from an elevation. — Goher-
Shah. — Takhti-Madre Soliman. — Custom among the
Eastern Monarchs of giving audiences in the open
air. — Zindan or Dustagh-Khaneh. — Visit the Tomb
of Meshedi Madre Soliman. — Supposed Tomb of
Cyrus. — Opposition made by the Iliyats.— Evening
spent in their Tents.- — Karavanserai of Murgab, the
supposed abode of the Magi. — The Pilaster with the
Cherub. — Discovery of a dial cut on the white stone
steps of the Tomb of Cyrus. — Hieroglyphics. —
Traverse the Ak-Gaduk and Valley of Kamin. —
Arrival at Seidan 71
CHAPTER V
RUINS IN THE PLAIN OF PERSEPOLIS.
Rock with bas-reliefs at Nakshi-Rustam. — The four
Royal tombs. — Entrance into the first and third of
these tombs, with descriptions of them. — Manner of
ascent and descent. — The parents of King Darius killed
in their attempt to visit one of the tombs. — Gebr
explanation of the circlet often found in the hands
of the Sasanian monarchs on the bas-reliefs of Persia.
— rDefinition of the Costi by the Baron Silvestre de
XIV CONTENTS.
Page
Sacy, according to the Zoroastrian faith. — Observa
tions on a golden cup with figures on it, found in a
tumulus near the Caspian Sea, in reference to the
Costi, and the distinction between Iran and Aniran. —
Night visit to the rock of Istakhr. — Disturb an
Iliyat encampment. — Account of the rock and ruined
fort on its summit. — Historical recollections. — Greek
captives brought before Alexander on approaching
Persepolis. — Description of the plain of Merdasht.
— Its fertility.— Nakshi-Kejeb. — Formation of the
rocks. — First impression on seeing the ruins of
Takhti-Jemshid 97
CHAPTER VI.
SUBJECT CONTINUED.
Ruins of Takhti-Jemshid or Persepolis. — Progress of
destruction observable in the gradual fall of the
pillars. — Buildings on the different platforms. — Dis
covery of the statue of a bull. — Accumulation of the
soil on the platform. — Subterraneous passages. —
Remarks on the late Mr. Beckford, the author of
" Vathek." — Lord Byron's opinion on that book. —
Adventures of the Caliph Vathek in the subterranean
halls of Istakhr. — Subterraneous corridors at Per^
sepolis, now occupied by porcupines. — The. royal
tombs in Mount Rahmed. — Feruers, or guardian
angels of the old Gebrs. — Figure of the moon
among the bas-reliefs. — Conjectures on it. — Interior
of the first, and second tomb. — General reflections on
the monuments of Persepolis .132
CONTENTS. XV
CHAPTER VII.
ROUTE FROM PERSEPOLIS TO SHIRAZ. Page
Visit to the Cave of Shah-Sharmu with Pehlevi in
scriptions. — Mussulman grave in a recess of the
mountains. — Seat of the town of Istakhr. — Birth
place of the impostor Mozdac. — Discovery of old
coins. — Extract from Professor Heeren. — Band-
Amir. — Thomas Moore. — Road to Shiraz. — Stop
at the Nabob's house. — State of Shiraz and the
province of Fars. — Rival parties.- — ¦ Short sketch of
the history of Madame de La Marriniere . . . .160
CHAPTER VIII.
FROM SHIRAZ TO KAZERUN.
Different roads leading from Shiraz to Behbehan. —
Furnished with artillery horses through the kind
ness of the Prince Ferhad-Mirza. — Kind feeling
and hospitality of the Persians. — Quit Shiraz. —
Precaution to be adopted in travelling during
winter through the snow. — Desht-Arjan. — Contrast
in the climate at Piri-Zen and Kuteli-Dokhter. —
Sculptured rock. — Overtaken by night. — Arrival at
Kazerun 188
CHAPTER IX.
FROM KAZERUN TO FAHLIYAN.
Description of Kazerun.— Valley of Kazerun.—
Gilevand guides. — Ruins of Shapur. — Mamaseni
XVI CONTENTS. Page
encampment of the Dushmen-Ziyari tribe. — Scene
on arriving there.— Vanity of earthly grandeur. —
Visit the cave of Shaptir.— Giveh, sort of sandals
worn by the mountaineers. — View from the entrance
of the cave of the adjacent country. — Valley of
Kuh-Mereh or Dasht-i-Ber. — Course of the Shapur
river. — Encampment of Jehangir-Khan, a Mamaseni
chief. — I am passed on from one chief to another in
return for a written certificate. — Chenoshejan. —
Winter residence of the Dushmen-Ziyari Mamaseni.
— Circuitous road for wheeled carriages to avoid
the Kutel-i-Dokhter. — Quit Chenoshejan. — Mune-
nahl. — Lurking-place of the marauding moun
taineers.— Proof of the unsettled state of the
country. — Sahrai-Bahram. — Sculptures in the
rock. — River of Behram. — Ruins of Nobenj an. — The
fort of Nurabad. — Residence of the Bekesh Ma
maseni. — Kal'eh-Sefid. — My new Bekesh guides.
¦ — -Turaj birds. — Valley of Sha'b-bevan. — Fields of
Narcissuses. — Arrival at Fahliyan 203
CHAPTER X.
FROM FAHLIYAN TO BEHBEHAN.
Description of Fahliyan. — Cultivation of the soil.
Taxation. — Visit an Imam-Zadeh. — Description of
the plain of Fahliyan. — Extract from M. Quatre-
mere on Sha'b-bevan. — Remarks thereon.— Enter
the territory of the Rustemi Mamaseni. — Course
of the river Ab-Shur, or Sheker-ab.— The valley
of Ser-ab-Siyah. — Rencontre with the Rustemi
Chief. — Unlucky display of horsemanship. — Pass
CONTENTS. XV11 Page
the Ab-Shur, and enter the Khogilu territory. —
Reception at Basht by Allah-Kerim-Khan, Chief
of the Bovi tribe. — General character of the Hiyat
Chiefs. — Resume my journey. — Travelling Hiyats.
— Karavanserai of Daghumbezum. — Pass the night
under arms. — Cross the rivers of Shem-si-Arab and
Kheirabad. — Hindian.- — Arrive at Behbehan . . . 235
CHAPTER XL
ACCOUNT OF THE MAMASENI AND KHOGILU TRIBES.
Boundary of the Mamaseni encampment. — Observations
of M. de Quatremere on the country of Shulistan. —
The Mamaseni are of Lur origin. — Conjectures
respecting the Mamaceni of Quintus Curtius. —
Lohr, or Lur-asp, one of the ancient kings of Persia.
— Liiiir, a name of one of the great-grandsons of the
Patriarch Abraham. — Divisions of the Mamaseni : 1.
Rustemi ; 2. Bekesh ; 3. Dushmen-Ziyari ; 4. Joi.
— Population. — The Mamaseni are great robbers. —
History of Veli-Khan Bekesh. — Reduction of some
of their strongholds. — Khogilu tribes. — Boundary of
their encampments. — Are likewise of Lur extraction.
— Note on the Leh, Lur, and Kvrd races. — The
Governor of Behbehan Chief of the Khogilu. —
Divisions of the Khogilu : 1. Bovi ; 2. Borahmed ;
3. Nui ; 4. Tenghebi ; 5. Bakhmei. — The latter a
wilder and more savage tribe than the rest. — A few
observations on their customs and manners. — Other
tribes of Behbehan. — Taxation of Behbehan. —
Arrears. — Critical position of the Chief Mirza Kumo
XV111 CONTENTS. Page
in respect to the Governor of Fars. — Preparations for
resistance. — Offer my advice to Mirza Kiimo. — Sad
fate which befalls him and his family 262
CHAPTER XII.
ANTIQUITIES OF, BEHBEHAN.
Description of Behbehan. — Limits. — Former and pre
sent possessions of Behbehan. — Soil. — Produce. —
Climate. — Winter and summer residences of the
Governor. — Ruins of Arrejan. — Remains of two
splendid bridges over the river Kurdistan. — Fire-
temple of Ardjan. — Volcanic mountain. — Mumia. —
Arrejan probably the former emporium of trade
between India and the interior of Persia. — The ports
of Mahruban and Hindiyan. — The name of Arrejan
attached to the province in the tenth century. — Town
of Cobad. — Different cities of Ardea. — The ancient
town of the Ardi, natives of Ardekan. — Identity of
Ardekan and Parastacene, &c. — Alexander penetrates
into those mountains. — Caves of the Mardi. —
Asylum Persarum. — Hedypnes of Pliny. — Ver-
eflfshue the abode of bliss of the Zend-Avesta. —
Annual migrations of the Persepolitan porcupine. —
Notes 290
CHAPTER XIII.
ROUTE FROM BEHBEHAN TO TASHUN.
Learn the existence of some old sculptures in the moun
tains, and in consequence change my route Various
routes to Shushter. — Prevail on Mirza Kiimo to
CONTENTS. XIX
honour Government barats.— Three French travellers
ill-treated at Behbehan. — Take leave of my host. —
Method of training Arab horses in spring. — Account
of the country. — Laws on inheritance among the
Hiyats. — Some curious enactments in the Zend
legislation. — Course of the Kurdistan river. — Treated
with fresh dates at the village of Ka'i-Kaus. — Ruins
of a town close to it. — Village of Tashun. — Tradition
concerning the Patriarch Abraham, said to have been
thrown into a burning furnace by Nimrod. — Conjec
tures as to the locality of Ur of the Chaldees.' —
Sacred fish at Tashun. — Anecdote of similar fish
preserved at an Imam-Zadeh near Isfahan. — Further
account of Tashun 330
CHAPTER XIV.
FROM TASHUN TO TENGI-SAULEK.
Set out for the valley of Tengi-Saiilek. — Necessary
precautions against the Bahmei mountaineers. —
Description of the road. — Black rock, with bas-reliefs
and inscriptions in unknown characters. — Another
sculptured stone in the same recess of the mountains.
— Passage of a letter from M. E. Bore on the subject
of the above inscriptions. — Conjecture as to their
resemblance to the Tamul character. — Cypress Grove.
— Elymite worship of Anaitis. — Landseer on Sabfean
antiquities. — Curious analogy between the second bas-
relief at Tengi-Saiilek, and a passage in " Vathek." —
Communication with Isfahan.— Worn-out pavement.
— Night spent in the open air.-— The young Teshuni
pehlevan 351
VOL. I. b
XX CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XV.
FROM TENGI-SAULEK TO MAL-AMIR. Page
Imam-Zadeh of Baba- Ahmed. — Biil-feriz. — Persian
medicine. — Pursued by Bahmei highlanders. — Sahrai-
Petek. — Dalun. — The Allar river. — A poisonous
plant. — Sarila and its inquisitive inhabitants. — Ruins
of an ancient town. — Impudent Mollahs. — Anecdote
of a Dervish. — The Tezeng river. — Mei Dovid. —
Ruins of a Sasanian toll-gate. — Line of communica
tion between Susiana and Central Persia. — Local Tra
ditions. — A Talisman. — Rustam's stables. — Behme'i
guide. — Food of the wandering tribes. — Ruins of
Manjanik.— The Abi-Zerd.— Baghi Malek.— Kal'eh-
Tul. — Meet an Englishman there. — Proceed together
to the camp of the Bakhtiyar chief. — Bakhtiyari
tombs. — Symbolical animals of Persia. — Ruins of the
plain of Halegun. — Arrival at Mai- Amir . . . .371
M ¦ K D I A
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JoA" -Inrnrxmit/i,
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN.
CHAPTER I.
Preparations previous to undertaking the journey from
Teheran to Persepolis. — Modes of travelling in the East
contrasted with the conveniences a traveller meets in
Europe. — Account of the disinterment of the victims
who fell during the massacre of the Russian Mission at
Teheran in 1829. — A thunderstorm in the month of
December. — Inconveniences attending travelling by post
at night.
During my stay in Persia it had been my
constant and most ardent wish to visit the far-
famed ruins of Persepolis ; but circumstances,
oyer which mortals seldom can exercise any
control, prevented me for a long while from
seeing that wish fulfilled. At length, towards
VOL. i. b
TRAVELS IN
the close of the year 1840, all impediments
being removed, I prepared myself for the
journey. In order to lose as little time on the
road as possible, I preferred going hy post to
the more convenient method of travelling with
my own horses. To an European, .who has
been accustomed only to the comforts, and even
luxuries, of locomotion in our civilized coun
tries, it will hardly appear intelligible that
nothing in the shape of coaches, trains, or
steamers, is known in the East, at least as
far as Persia is concerned. There, if you wish
to travel in the least ostentatious manner, or
even with the bare semblance of ease, you
must have riding horses for yourself and ser
vants, whatever length the journey may be ;
next you require other horses or cattle, such
as mules, camels, &c, to carry your bedding
and your servants', kitchen, and the bedding
of your horses (not a trifling encumbrance),
because you find on the road no hotels-garnis,
no inns, not even taverns. In tracts where no
villages are seen on the high road, the usual
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 3
halting-places are karavanserais, stone buildings
with one huge entry into a spacious yard, round
which are small cells with doorways, but no
doors; without windows, and with just sufficient
room to pass a comfortless night in. Between the
inner court and the outward walls of the kara-
vanserai are the dark vaulted stables for cattle,
by far the most comfortable part of the building.
This is the sum total of all the accommodations
you can expect in the hest karavanserais ; but
the same advantages do not exist in all, and you
may often reckon yourself very fortunate in
meeting with a much less favoured abode after
a fatiguing day's journey through a desert
country. This is not a very favourable picture
of Persian travelling; it is, nevertheless, a
correct one. Again, when travelling with your
own horses, very little progress is made in a
day's march, and I certainly should not recom
mend it to any one pressed for time. This
mode of advancing would not have suited me
on the present occasion. The distance from
Teheran to Persepolis, is, in round numbers,
b 2
TRAVELS IN
one hundred and twenty farsangs, or four
hundred and fifty English miles ; and reckoning
six farsangs per day, according to the usual
mode of travelling, I could not have reached the
latter place in less than twenty days. Being
sufficiently inured to hard riding, I determined
to travel post. My first step was to procure a
written order to the Postmaster-General, to the
effect that the necessary number of horses
required at every station should be furnished
me. This was soon accomplished, and Shefi
Khan (the name of the Postmaster-General),
who happened to be an acquaintance of mine,
appointed one of his chapars, or postillions, to
accompany me, and see that no delay took place
in the relay of horses on the road. By his sug
gestion, likewise, I further applied to the
Minister of State to have a clause introduced
into the Royal firman (or usual passport),
addressed to the chiefs of provinces, districts,
towns, tribes, villages, &c, recommending the
traveller to their protection, namely, that
wherever post-horses could not be had, the
LURISTAN ANT) ARABISTAN. ft
chief of the place should procure me the
cattle necessary for pursuing my route. I after
wards found this precautionary measure of some
service. My impatience to commence the
journey was so great, that, regardless of the
menacing aspect of the skies, which foreboded
a storm, and the non-appearance of the post-
horses, with the guide, till late in the evening,
I still persisted in setting off, and issued from
the gate of Teheran at sunset, on the 23d of
December, 1840.
On turning the south-eastern angle of the
walls, I came to a raised ground which forms
the glacis beyond the contre-scarp of the city
ditch. With this spot is associated the recol
lection of the melancholy catastrophe which
befell the Imperial Russian Mission at Teheran,
in 1829, when the Envoy, with his suite and
attendants, were barbarously massacred by the
savage rabble of the town.
It appears, that after the bloody deed was
perpetrated, the palace of the Minister plun
dered, and the dead bodies stripped of their
TRAVELS IN
clothes, certain Armenians who lived in the
neighbourhood were compelled to carry away
the corpses, and bury them out of the town.
In consequence, a narrow trench was dug in
the glacis, facing the south-eastern extremity
of the city Avail, in which the dead bodies were
deposited, and then covered over with earth.
The transient stay the new Mission made at
Teheran, in 1833, and subsequently the death
of Abbas-Mirza, the Naib-Sultan or heir pre
sumptive, and of the old Shah, as well as the
succeeding events which took place on the
accession of the reigning Sovereign to the
throne, and the cholera, which raged at Teheran
in 1835, prevented the Imperial Mission from
rendering to their predecessors the last honours
due to their memory.
It had even become a delicate question
to determine whether it was desirable to re
vive disagreeable reminiscences which for years
had been consigned to oblivion, especially
as a gracious pardon had emanated from the
Imperial Court. But, in the summer of 1836.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 7
the Russian Mission, profiting by the tempo
rary absence of the Shah, who was encamped
in the mountains, thought the opportunity
favourable to have the mortal remains of their
deceased countrymen dug up, and removed to
some consecrated Christian burial-ground.
As the Armenian cemetery was within the
precincts of the town, it was necessary to apply
to the Beglerbeg, or Governor of Teheran, for
permission to introduce the corpses into the
city, there existing in the East, as well as in
many European States, a positive prohibition
against dead bodies being conveyed within the
city-gates. Several years previous the body of
Mr. Rich, the late British "Political Agent at
Bagdad, who died near Shiraz, in southern
Persia, was refused admission into the city
under that very plea, and was in consequence
interred outside, in the garden where the Per
sian poet Hafis lies buried.
In the present case the Beglerbeg acceded to
the request of the Russian Minister, and I was
intrusted with the sad yet consoling office of
8 TRAVELS IN
fulfilling the last Christian duties to my de
parted countrymen.
The day had been sultry, and, as we were
encamped at some distance, I could only reach
the city wall about an hour and a-half before
sunset. Grave-diggers were already in attend
ance, and on my arrival proceeded to re-open
the trench. After the upper layer of earth had
been removed, the trench became apparent; — ¦
it was just broad enough to contain two bodies
abreast, but in length may probably have ex
ceeded thirty or thirty-five feet. At this distance
of time I can only speak from memory, but
the horrible spectacle which presented itself to
view had too great* an effect on me, ever to be
forgotten. The corpses had not been placed in
coffins, but lay two by two in a row, the heads
of the second pair close to the feet of the
foremost. Some were wrapped up in shrouds,
others stretched out naked. Time had, how
ever, not been idle, and its ravenous tooth had
already gnawed away the fleshy parts ; the
skin likewise was gone, and the bare ghastly
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 9
skeletons alone remained. Even these were
not perfectly preserved ; with some a leg,
with others an arm or the skull were missing,
showing, even when all traces of human fea
tures had been nearly effaced by time, how
barbarously those bodies had been treated, when
the soul still animated them, or just after death
had closed their eyes for ever.
In the second row, below the first, the black
earth was greasy and moist ; the shrouds nearly
black and spotted with mould, gave way at
the touch of the spade and fell to pieces.
Tufts of hair which had been clogged together
by the coagulated blood, lay detached but close
to the skulls. On examining more minutely,
I found that some of the hair was of a red
colour, a circumstance which made me suspect
that I had before me the skeleton of the young
physician of the Mission, who was red headed,
and had fought, it is said, to the last with
uncommon bravery. His skull was fractured
in several places; nor was his the only one,
10 TRAVELS IN
for I found others which had been deeply in
dented by sabre cuts.*
The three large boxes that were procured
for carrying away the bodies were twice filled
with the bones of the deceased, while the work
was going on, and taken to the Armenian
cemetery, to be there emptied into one common
grave of capacious dimensions, which had been
dug out and the walls worked in masonry for
the purpose. They were preceded by the
Armenian priest in his pontifical robes, bear
ing a cross in his hand, and accompanied
by several furashes or servants, whom the
Beglerbeg had sent to maintain order in case
* It is well known that the body of Mr. Griboedoff,
the Minister, was recognised from among the rest by his
uniform, and after being dragged along the bazaars by the
infuriated populace, was secured by the authorities when
order was re-established, and at a later period reclaimed
by the Imperial Government. He lies at present interred
at Tiflis in Georgia, where a superb monument is erected
to his memory at the top of a hill close to the convent
of St. David, if my recollection serves me right.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 11
of accident. The precaution, although a very
prudent one, turned out to be superfluous, for
the people of the town who met the proces
sion, passed quietly on, without any hostile
manifestation. In the meanwhile the sun had set, and as
in the East it is very soon followed by dark
ness, we were obliged to continue our work
by the aid of lanterns and flambeaux dipped
in naphtha. Having procured a fourth box,
we contrived to place the remaining bones
in it, after having likewise replenished the
former three, thus making ten chests in all,
and commenced the final procession towards
the town by the light of torches. Being late,
the gates had been closed, but they were
soon re-opened, and the whole party entered.
We moved on slowly along the street in
solemn silence; the few persons whom we
found in the dukans (shops), or met on the
road, gazed at us as we advanced, and followed
with their eyes the procession, but remained
quiet.
12 TRAVELS IN
I could not help contrasting this dead silence
with the tumult which had raged in this very
street seven years before. How different the
scene was then !
When it had become apparent that Mr.
Griboedoff refused to deliver up the individuals
who had sought an asylum at the hotel of
the Mission, and whom it was his sacred duty
to protect as Russian subjects, the mob were
instigated by the clergy, and by those whose
interest it was to have the fugitives given up,
to assail the palace of the Minister, and by
their clamour to intimidate him into a com
pliance with their demands. One of the Cos
sacks placed to guard the entrance, being hard
pressed by the mob, fired and shot a man
among the assembled crowd, who, it is said,
dispersed for a short time, but only to increase
their numbers. The corpse of the deceased
Persian was placed on a bier in the court of
the mosque, and a hue and cry being raised
that the blood of a Mussulman had been spilt,
nothing short of the blood of the Kafirs, or
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 13
Infidels, could quench their thirst for revenge.
With feelings like these, so soon kindled in the
fiery and revengeful breast of an Asiatic,
worked up to the highest pitch, it is easy to
conceive that it could not end otherwise than
in a tragedy. To the sentiment of vengeance
was added the prospect of plunder, in which,
no doubt, the mob was effectually assisted by
the lawless Bahtiyars, a great number of that
wild tribe being domiciliated as hostages at
Teheran, close behind the walls of the house
which had been allotted for the reception and
temporary residence of the Imperial Mission.
To proceed, however: when the contents of
all the boxes had been emptied into the grave,
which they nearly filled, all who were present
approached the brink, while the priest read the
funeral service. The silver moon illumined the
solemn scene, and threw some faint gleams over
the glossy skulls and bones that lay in a heap
before us. I reckoned about twenty-six skulls,
more or less mutilated ; so that we were engaged
in consigning to the earth, in one mutual grave,
14 TRAVELS IN
the wrecks of as many bodies. At the close
of the passage, " Dust ye are, and to dust
shall ye return," we joined the priest in
strewing earth into the grave, which was then
closed with planks, and covered by a marble
slab. Although to the souls who have quitted their
mortal tenement it must be, in all probability,
a matter of little moment where their bones may
rot, and in what way their ashes are dispersed,
yet it is far from being so to those whom they
leave behind; and respect to the dead seems
to be a natural feeling among the living. But
perhaps nowhere is this feeling so deeply rooted
as among the inhabitants of the East. The
custom which prevails among Mussulmans of
carrying the dead to be buried in places reputed
sacred, such as Mesched, Kum, Kerbelai, and
Mecca, is partly founded on the feeling of re
verence they bear to the deceased. The Per
sians, therefore, far from being astonished at our
disinterring the mortal remains of our coun
trymen and removing them to a consecrated
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 15
Christian burying-ground, were only surprised it
had not been done before.
A circumstance which occurred at the very
time will give an idea how Mussulmans think
on this subject. While we were engaged in
digging up the bones, a caravan of zuvars, or
pilgrims, came out of the Shah-Abdul-Azim
gate, each leading a horse having two coffins
swung across the packsaddle, with dead bodies
in them, which they were transporting to Kum
and to Kerbelai, there to be buried. As they
passed near our party, they were curious to
know what we were about, and, on learning
that we were engaged in disinterring the dead,
in order to replace them in holy ground, some
observed that that was right, and that it seemed
Christians knew likewise it was a duty to re
spect the dead. I subsequently heard the same
opinion confirmed by others.
To return, however, to my journey. We had
not advanced far, when the impending black
clouds which had been thickening over our
heads burst, and we were visited by a most
16 TRAVELS IN
tremendous storm of hail, accompanied by
thunder and lightning, notwithstanding the ad
vanced season of the year. The rain poured
in torrents, and we were soon beset by utter
darkness. In this predicament we could not
proceed long without losing our way, although
our new guide persisted for some time that he
was leading us by the right path. The vivid
flashes of lightning showed at intervals but
too plainly that we were in a desert plain,
without traces of a road or any dwelling to
protect us for the night. At last the barking
of a dog revived our hopes, and following the
direction from whence the welcome sounds
proceeded, we arrived at a village, where after
some difficulty, we got admittance into an
old barn.
Next morning, the rain having ceased, we
remounted our horses and came to Kenare-
gird, where they were to be changed; but as
no fresh cattle were forthcoming, the place,
moreover, being nearly deserted, we had to wait
until our own beasts were refreshed, and then
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 17
proceeded with them. I could not complain
of my steed, who was steady, and ambled
along pleasantly. Next to the long quick
pacer, the ambling horse in Persia is the
most esteemed ; and the animal, whether horse
or mule, possessing that quality, (which is
acquired,) fetches a higher price in the market.
The Persians pay as much attention to the
easy paces of their horses, as we do to the easy
springs of our equipages.
Our next halting place was Hauz-Sultan, a
karavanserai, on the skirts of the great Salt
Desert, or Kabir, which separates Teheran from
Kum, and extends far to the east, between
Khorasan and Yezd. There being no post-
station at the karavanserai, we were com
pelled once more to allow our horses to fetch
breath ; and therefore could not reach the next
karavanserai of Puli-Delauk before pitch dark,
after having again lost our way in the wilder
ness. I have often tried to break through the
vol. i. c
18 TRAVELS IN
Persian prejudice, as I used to call it, or lazy
custom of halting at night-fall, although urged
by pressing business ; but I have invariably
found by experience, that little or nothing is
gained by pushing onward. The nights in
the East are dark, especially in autumn
and winter ; and as no hand-posts or any
other sign mark the way, nothing is so
easy as to get astray in the uniform plains
or the intricate defiles of the barren hills.
It has been my lot on some occasions to
stick fast in the deep snow without the
possibility of advancing or retreating until the
dawn of day came to rescue me from the
uncomfortable position. At other times, after
toiling the entire night in search of the right
path, I have returned, towards morning, to the
spot from whence I had started the preceding
evening, where I was exposed to the provoking
smiles of those who had vainly dissuaded me
from the useless enterprise.
My observations, however, are only applicable
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 19
to such as venture in very small parties, because
the caravans, in summer, usually prefer travel
ling at night to encountering the heat of the
day ; but then the muleteers and their mules
seem to know their road by instinct.
c 2
CHAPTER II.
Mysterious village of Kum-rud. — Persian superstition about
the ghuls, or land mermaids of the Kabir or Great Desert.
— Mr. Morier's account of them. — Ruined karavanserais
of Deir and Kodj in the same desert. — Return of the
zuvar from a pilgrimage to Mecca and Kerbelai. — Dis
tinction between the Meschedi, Kerbela'i, and Hajji. —
Relative importance attached to those names. — Arrival at
Kum. — Institution of the chapar-khanehs or post-stations
in Persia. — Remarks on the ruins of Sinsine. — Melons
and wheat grown on the same beds at Kashan. — Reputed
cowardice of the inhabitants. — They are good copper
smiths. — Velvet manufacturers of Kashan. — Summer and
winter road to Isfahan. — Kuhrud, with the dyke of Shah-
Abbas.' — Account of Kuhrud. — Passage through the
snow. — Buran karavanserai of Ak-Kemel. — Village of So.
— Night accident on crossing a river. — Murchehar. —
Ghez. — Arrival at Isfahan.
The river which flows close to the karavansarai
in which we passed the night, and over which
the Puli-Delauk, or bridge of the barber, is
thrown, runs in a north-eastern direction, and,
joining the river of Kercj, which we had crossed
TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 21
at Kenare-gird, with a few more streams coming
from Veromine, loses itself in the Salt Desert,
converting a vast space of country into swamps.
Near the junction of these rivers is a strong
fortified village, called Kum-rud, of which
strange tales are related. The inhabitants, it is
said, belong to a distinct race, never associating
with others. Some maintain that they are
jealous followers of the Ali-allahi doctrine,
recognising the divinity of Ali, the cousin of
the Arab Prophet: others think they are the
descendants of the ancient Parsi, or Gebrs, the
disciples of the Zoroastrian Creed, who have
always triumphantly resisted the adoption of the
Mussulman tenets. As none of those whom I
questioned had been at Kum-rud, or seen any of
its inhabitants, and only spoke from hearsay,
their information was very vague and unsatis
factory. At a later period, when I visited the
mountain of Siah-Kuh, in the great Salt Desert,
I was desirous of extending my excursion to
Kum-rud ; but after penetrating some way in
that direction, and exploring the ruined building
of Deir, an edifice of the Sasanian epoch, I
22 TRAVELS IN
could go no further on account of the intense
heat, and the total absence of drinkable water.
Want of opportunity prevented me from prose
cuting this design afterwards; but I believe
that Kum-rud, with the ruins of Koj, which
are in the same vicinity, are more accessible
from Puli-Delauk than from any other points ;
and I think both deserve the attention of future
travellers, were it merely to ascertain what
sort of men these Kum-rudi are, who have
adopted the Chinese system of secluding them
selves from the rest of the world.
As they live in the desert, the common
people of Persia connect them with all the
absurd accounts current concerning the ghuls
and other evil spirits who are said to haunt
those dreary and dismal wastes.
These superstitions are very old, and appear
to have existed in remote antiquity among the
Zend and other Asiatic races.*
I cannot give a better account of these ghuls
than by quoting the passage of Mr. Morier on
the subject, in his humorous and pleasant style
* See nolo at the end of the chapter.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 23
m
of narration, when travelling over the same
ground. " The following day," says he, " we passed
over it (part of the Salt Desert,) without in
convenience, though the Persians were not
without some apprehensions of the goule, a
species of land mermaid, which they affirm
entices the traveller by its cries, and then tears
him to pieces with its claws. They say that
the goule has the faculty of changing itself
into different shapes and colours; sometimes
that it comes in a camel's form, sometimes as a
cow, then as a horse ; and when on a sudden
we had discovered something on the horizon
of the desert which we could not define, all
the Persians at once exclaimed that it was a
goule. With the gravest faces we were in
formed of the spells by which they had kept
them at a distance, the most efficacious of which
they said was loosening the string of their
shalwars, or riding trousers."*
* See Morier's " Second Journey through Persia," &c>
p. 168.
24 TRAVELS IN
The name of Kodj is usually mentioned with
that of the karavanserai of Deir, making it
Deiri-Kodj. We find them noticed by the
Arab writers, * and they were probably on the
direct line of communication which existed in
former ages, between the southern parts of the
empire and its Caspian provinces, passing
through the Greek towns in Veromine.
On approaching Kum the next morning, the
25th December, I met a numerous caravan of
pilgrims returning from Kerbelai, where they
had been to offer their prayers at the shrine
of Husein, the martyred son of Ali, and to
carry the dead bodies of their relatives to be
interred in that holy city of the Shiah Mus
sulmans. A great concourse of people had
quitted the walls of the town ; they were the
friends of the pilgrims, and came out to con-
* Dir-Kard-Shir, says Ya Kuti, is a monastery, situated
in the midst of a barren plain, between Rei and Kum.
It owes its foundation to Ardashir, the son of Babek, is
very strong, and surrounded by high walls. It has a cistern
cut in the rock. See " Notices et Extraits des Manuscrits
dc la Biblioteque du Roi," torn. ii.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 25
gratulate the travellers on their safe return,
and on the acquisition of the title of Kerbelai.
There are three places to which the Persian
Shiahs resort in pilgrimage. The town of
Mesched is reckoned the least in the scale of
sanctity ; and those who have been there to
the tomb of Imam-Riza, obtain the name of
Meschedi. The next after them are the Ker
belai, who stand a degree higher in estimation ;
while those only who have visited the Caaba
and the tomb of the Arab Prophet at Mecca
and Medina, can lay claim to the title of Hajji.
It is quite ludicrous at times to observe the
importance which is attached to these distinc
tions, especially among the inferior classes of
the community.
A man will feel offended if you call him
Meschedi, when he has a right to the superior
degree of Kerbelai, or the still higher and
more pompous appellation of Hajji. Thus Mes
chedi, Kerbelai, Hajji, become titles of distinc
tion, of which the possessors are not a little
vain, and often foolish enough to suppose that
26 TRAVELS IN
they add to their personal merit. But instead
of condemning the deluded judgment of others,
we ought to look to ourselves, and see whether
we are not actuated by the same impulses, and
labouring under the same lamentable infirmities
in respect to our worldly notions of rank and
titles. At Kum, the Holy City, with the shrine of
Fatmeh, sister to one of the great Imans, I
stopped for a short time only, at a ruined kara
vanserai, now turned into a chapar-khaneh, or
place where post-horses are held. The post in
Persia is kept up by Government, which pays
for the maintenance of each chapar-khaneh, or
post station, in money and in kind ; the admi
nistration of it is in the hands of the Post
master-General, who farms the chapar-khanehs,
separately or collectively, on a given line of
communication with the capital.
There are chapar-khanehs on all the principal
roads leading to Teheran, but the towns in the
interior do not enjoy the same advantage. The
post, however, here is not instituted as in
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 27
Europe, for the regular conveyance of letters
and parcels. It is only for the transmission of
orders from the central authorities to the different
governors of provinces, and for reports sent up
by the latter to the Supreme Court. On such
occasions a golam' (literally, a slave), or confi
dential servant, is intrusted with the packets and
despatched chapari, which means by post. Indi
viduals who have letters to forward in the same
direction, take advantage of these opportunities
by paying a trifling remuneration to the bearer,
who takes charge of their correspondence. Seven
is the usual number of horses at each station,
although it varies according to the exigences
of the times or the importance of the line of
communication. The three principal points
with which Teheran keeps up a continued cor
respondence are, Tabriz to the west, Isfahan, to
the south, and Mesched to the east.
With the exception of one or two horses at
each station, which are sometimes, but not
always, tolerable, the rest are in a most miser
able condition ; and the poor rider who has the
28 TRAVELS IN
bad luck to bestride one of them is more
knocked up by his jade than he is by the legiti
mate fatigues of the long journey. If, not
withstanding all his endeavours, his horse will
not or cannot advance, he has the privilege of
cutting off its tail and flourishing it before the
face of the zobet, or keeper of the next post-
station. This is the satisfaction granted him
for having had to walk perhaps half the way on
foot, with his saddle on one shoulder and his
bag of despatches on the other.
The road from Kum to Kashan offers few
objects of interest, if we except the ruins of
Sinsine, which must once have been an ex
tensive town, but when, is a question, I
believe, which has not yet been well settled.
As I was running chapari — as the Persians
express one who travels post — I could not be
expected to attend to these ruins ; but by what
I learned from an intelligent missionary of the
Propaganda, who discovered some subterranean
chambers hid among the heaps of rubbish of
the town of Sinsine, it is more than probable
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 29
that the antiquary would find here an inte
resting field for investigation. I take the liberty
of pointing out to future travellers places where
few researches have yet been made, but which
seem to deserve attention, because it often
happens that in our hurry to pay homage to the
historical and more prominent monuments of
past ages, we often pass unheeded the less appa
rent, but perhaps not the less curious remains
of antiquity. This observation is chiefly ap
plicable to Persia ; for, notwithstanding the vast
number of travellers whom curiosity leads to
visit one of the most ancient and most powerful
monarchies of the world, Persia has still been
veiy imperfectly explored.
On approaching Kashan, we passed by consi
derable fields dug up and laid out in melon
beds. Not to lose an inch of ground, or a
drop of the water used for irrigation, the
inhabitants of Kashan grow wheat on the
same beds, which are accordingly encircled
by a green fringe. The blades, moreover,
shooting up, yield in thick clusters shade
30 TRAVELS IN
and freshness to the melons, while they at
the same time afford an agreeable object for
the eye to rest on. I do not recollect having
witnessed this peculiarity elsewhere in Persia.
The inhabitants of the towns are of very
industrious habits, which partly compensates
for their want of courage, for a Kashi is
synonymous with a coward, and many are the
tales that are told illustrative of their timorous
dispositions, by their more courageous neigh
bours. These accusations are only true, rela
tively speaking, for, in the absolute sense of
the word, all the Persians are more or less
Kashi. Among other traits of cowardice laid
to their charge, the Kashi are said to be
always the best equipped from head to foot
with defensive armour and offensive weapons,
when on their pilgrimage to Mesched or
Mecca, and to be loud in the praises of
their own undaunted valour until the hour of
danger arrives. When, however, the enemy,
in the shape of Turcomans or Arabs, make
their appearance, they are always the first to
PAVILION OK FINN, NEAR KASHAN (PERSIA).
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 31
run away. As the town of Kum is noted
for its sacred shrine of Fatimeh and its
earthen pots which preserve water cool in
-summer, so is Kashan celebrated for the skill
of its inhabitants as coppersmiths, and for its
silk and cotton velvet manufactories.
A short ride to the right of Kashan is a
pretty spot called Finn, to which the late
Feth'-ali-Shah used sometimes to resort. The
gardens are laid out in pleasant walks, shaded
by elegant cypress and poplar trees, as well
as by the majestic chinar. The pavilions are
light and fantastic, with fresh crystal waters
running through the lower apartments, while
the upper stories are open on all four sides,
to allow a free passage for the current of air,
which is such a luxury in the hot plains of
Kashan. But what lessens considerably the favourable
impression Finn would otherwise produce is,
that before reaching it, the traveller must pass
close to a pyramid of white mortar, with a
32 TRAVELS IN
number of Beluchi heads stuck into it — a
most appalling sight!
At Kashan we changed horses. The one
I rode had brought me from Kum, a distance
of twenty farsangs, and was still quite frisky;
but my servants did not fare so well, although
they had obtained fresh horses at the inter
vening stages.
Two roads lead from Kashan to Isfahan,
one over the mountains, passing by Kuhrud,
the other over Natens. The latter, although
the more circuitous of the two, is the usual
winter road, as it avoids the high mountains,
which are generally covered with deep snow
during that season. Kuhrud, nevertheless,
offering a shorter cut across the hills, the
post stages are established along this line, a
circumstance of which I was not sorry, for
I had already traversed the former road in
the spring of the same year; moreover, I did
not mind having a little scramble in the
snow; for an inhabitant of the north it was
Mm 1
\mSSm
KIOSK OF FINN, NEAR KASHAN (PERSIA).
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 33
more pleasing than otherwise to meet with
an old friend and hoary companion of one's
youthful days. I entertained, likewise, the
hope of examining the famous dyke which
was erected by Shah Abbas the Great, to
gather the melting snow into one immense
reservoir, out of which the water flows into
the plains of Kashan, which it serves to
fertilize. I was, however, rather disappointed
in my expectations, as I passed the spot
during the night, and, although the moon
added much to the picturesque effect of the
scene in the mountains, it did not yield suffi
cient light to enable me to follow the artificial
work of the Bendi-Kuhrud in all its details.
The plains of Kashan are among the hottest
places of Persia in summer, and are said to
breed quantities of scorpions of the large black
species, which are more venomous than the pale
grey ones. Chardin has already observed, two
centuries ago, in his admirable work on Persia,
that one of the modes of expressing one's hatred
to an enemy was to wish him to be bitten by
VOL. I. D
34 TRAVELS IN
a scorpion of Kashan, or to be made Governor
of the province of Ghilan ; the latter, on the
Caspian, being reckoned the most unwholesome
province of Persia and the most subject to
malignant fevers.
On leaving Kashan the weather was quite
warm, but the atmosphere grew gradually
cooler as we rose up the mountains, and, on
reaching the dyke of Kuhrud, we found our
selves in the depth of winter. The crests and
the flanks of the hills were covered with snow;
under our feet there was less, but the road was
slippery ; and the horses, not being sharp-shod,
moved with great difficulty up the steep ascent,
stumbling and sliding at every step. At some
distance from the village of Kuhrud, I was
surprised at seeing, at that time of night, a
light burning in a burying-ground to our right.
It issued from a_ low temporary hut, constructed
over. a tomb, and the shadow of a human form
was seen moving to and fro in slow measured
cadence. On nearing the spot our ears were
struck with low incantations and most guttural
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN.
sounds. They proceeded from a Mullah who
was reading the Kuran.
It is sometimes customary in Persia for the
relatives of a deceased person to engage a
Mullah to recite prayers over his tomb, or to
read the Kuran for a certain number of days for
the repose of the departed soul.
The district of Kuhrud, together with Natens,
which is distant from the village of Kuhrud
about ten farsangs to the East behind the
mountains, has sixty-three villages, which, at
the time I passed through that country, were
in the hands of a relative of the Prime Minister,
by name Abdullah-Khan. Kuhrud has many
orchards with fruit-trees, but is deficient in
fields for sowing corn, which is brought from
Josheghdn, a small district about three farsangs
to the West.
The houses are large, mostly built with two
stories, and have an appearance of cleanliness
about them which is not often observable in the
villages on the plain. The people likewise are
a fine race of men and women, who seem to be
d 2
36 TRAVELS IN
well off. In this particular also they are an
exception to the less fortunate occupiers of the
lowlands. The Kuhrudi speak a peculiar cor
ruption of the Persian language, a patois of
their own.
The direct road to 86, the next station, being
completely choked up by deep snow, a more
easy path was pointed out to us by the kara
vanserai of Ak-Kemal, which took us, by a
roundabout way, first to S.S.W. by S., and from
the karavanserai to S.E. by E.S.E.
I do not know in what state the direct road
may have been, but the one we followed was
anything but easy. First of all there was no
road; a caravan which was said to have pre
ceded us in the same direction that morning,
had, it seems, the start of us of several hours,
and the wind being strong in these alpine regions,
had obliterated the traces of their inarch by
drifts of snow, just as sand is shifted about by
the whirlwinds of the desert. We moved on
accordingly at random, the poor horses sinking
up to their girths at every step they took, until,
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 37
after much plunging and rearing, we came on
the traces of the caravan, and soon espied it
at a distance, moving like a string of geese
along the snowy ocean. Pushing onward, as
well as the path would allow us, we at last came
up with the party, which consisted of a dozen
chalvadars, or muleteers, who were carrying
some bales of merchandise to Isfahan on the
backs of their horses and mules. The difficul
ties of the march soon recommenced; we had
not yet reached the high table land, and the
intervening space was hill and dale. The snow,
although lying deep on the former, could not
be compared to what had accumulated in the
narrow valleys, and the poor beasts who led
the van of the column and served as pioneers,
sunk so completely into the snow that they
could advance no further. What was to be
done 1 — the whole caravan was obliged to halt.
The men gathered together to extricate the poor
animals out of their uncomfortable position, and
I admired the ingenious plan they had recourse
to. After freeing the beasts of their burthens,
38 TRAVELS IN
they stripped themselves of their felt great coats,
and, spreading them on the ground, got the feet
of their horses upon them. Although the felted
garments gave way beneath the weight of the
animal, still it in this manner got some sort of
footing. In this fashion we got over the most
deep and difficult portions of the road, and it may
easily be conceived how slowly we advanced. It
was lucky that the weather cleared up, and the
wind abated, for a buran, or snow-drift, in these
bleak and barren wastes is at times attended
with fatal consequences. The chalvadars usu
ally when overtaken by a buran, throw their
goods in the middle of the way, and themselves
seek for safety with their cattle in the nearest
village or karavanserai, only returning Avhen the
weather clears up, to fetch their bales of mer
chandise, which are sufficiently safe during their
absence, as no one will venture out as long as
the buran lasts, which is sometimes several days.
After swallowing a few cold boiled eggs, and
some greasy cold pillau, in a corner of the
karavanserai of Ak-Kemal, we again vaulted
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 39
into our saddles, and as the country presented
fewer obstacles, arrived at the pretty village of
So, about sun-set.
As we had gone over so little ground this day,
and I wished to arrive in the course of the follow
ing day at Isfahan, a distance of from eighteen
to nineteen farsangs, we only allowed ourselves
time to snatch a few hours' rest, and, taking
fresh post-horses, set off at night. All went
well, until we arrived at a mountain-river, which
we had to cross, just above a cataract. We
had before us a considerable sheet of water,
which had been frozen up, presenting here and
there broad crevices and pools, which in the
day-time could easily be avoided, but at night
were hardly discernible. We had, of course,
to dismount, and lead our horses by the bridle ;
but as they were not sharp-shod, they slipped
from right to left, dragging us after them, and,
before the passage could be effected, both myself
and my horse got up to our middle in water.
On gaining the other shore, I had to change
my shirt and under dress, " a la belle etoile,"
40 TRAVELS IN
and squeezing out the water from the cloth
trousers, pulled them on as well as I could.
As the wind was fresh and the night frosty, my
clothes got stiff and stuck to the body. To crown
the discomfort of this night's journey, the animal
I rode stumbled dreadfully, so that as soon
as I set it into a canter, we regularly came
down together to the ground. We arrived at
Murchehar in the morning, and I was shown
into the inner court of an Imam-Zade, where
I had the great luxury of changing my apparel
and taking some rest and food.
Murchehar is a very considerable village, and
has often been described. It is celebrated for
a battle which was fought on its plains between
Nadir Shah and the Affghans, who were routed,
and after their defeat retired from Isfahan and
left the country. From Murchehar we came
to Ghez, likewise a large village, with a
thousand houses, and a very fine karavanserai,
and at last reached the gates of Isfahan some
time after sunset, having travelled from Teheran,
a distance of fifty-eight or sixty farsangs, equal
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 41
to two hundred and twenty-five miles, in five
days. I had to traverse the whole breadth of the
town from north to south; first by cut-throat
lanes between high-raised walls which enclose
the gardens of the suburbs ; then by covered
bazaars, which, being mostly untenanted, were
pitch dark, and fast crumbling into ruins ;
next through broader bazaars, lit up here and
there, by some solitary lamp, till I reached
the chebar-bagh of Shah Abbas, that cele
brated alley, bordered by Eastern plane-trees,
which brought me to the magnificent stone-
bridge over the Zoyenderud. Here I felt more
at home, as I had so frequently crossed the
river over this bridge in the spring and summer
of the same year. On the opposite side is the
suburb of Julfa, the Armenian quarter of
Isfahan, and thither I hastened to take up my
abode with my friend M. Eugene Bore, whom
I found still up, and much surprised to see
me arrive so late. He received me with his
usual cordiality, and after some delicious cups
42 TRAVELS IN
of hot tea, which are as welcome to the stomach
after the fatigues of a tedious journey as the
society of a friend after a long absence is
to the heart, I felt quite happy at being
able to stretch my limbs, for so many hours
cramped in the saddle, and betake myself to
rest.
NOTE TO CHAPTER II.
Page 22. — We find a curious description of these evil
spirits of the desert in Marco Polo's "Travels through
Central Asia, in the Thirteenth Century" : —
" It is asserted," says the author, " as a well known fact,
that this desert (Kobi, in the vicinity of the town of Lop)
is the abode of many evil spirits, which amuse travellers
to their destruction with most extraordinary illusions. If
during the day-time, any person remains behind on the
road, either when overtaken by sleep, or detained by their
natural occasions, until the karavan has passed a hill, and
is no longer in sight, they unexpectedly hear themselves
called to by their names, and in a tone of voice to which
they are accustomed. Supposing the call to proceed from
their companions, they are led away by it from the direct
road, and not knowing in what direction to advance, are
left to perish.
" In the night time they are persuaded they hear the
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 43
march of a large cavalcade on one side or on the other of
the road, and concluding the noise to be that of footsteps
of their party, they direct theirs to the quarter from whence
it seems to proceed : but, upon the breaking of day, find
they have been misled and drawn into a situation of danger.
Sometimes likewise during the day, these spirits assume
the appearance of their travelling companions, who address
them by name, and endeavour to conduct them out of the
proper way-road. It is said also that some persons in their
course across the desert have seen what appeared to them
to be a body of armed men, advancing towards them, and
apprehensive of being attacked and plundered, have taken
to flight ; losing by this the right path, and ignorant of the
direction they should take to regain it, they have perished
miserably of hunger. Marvellous, indeed, and almost pass
ing belief, are the stories related of these spirits of the
desert, which are said at times to fill the air with the
sounds of ail kinds of musical instruments, and also of •
drums and the clash of arms, obliging the travellers to close
their line of march, and to proceed in more compact order."
— (See the English version of Marco Polo's Travels, by
Marsden, chap, xxxv., p. 159.)
CHAPTER III.
A school established at Julfa for the instruction of _ the
Armenian youth. — Religious tolerance of the Isfahani
Mussulman clergy. — Reasons for it. — Progress of Suf-
feism. — Lutis of Isfahan. — Bast, or places of refuge. —
Form the project of visiting Shushter and the mountains
of the ¦ Bakhtiyaris. — Quit Isfahan. — Kal'eh Rustam. —
Cheshme-Multan. — Mayar. — Brilliant night meteors. —
Kumisheh.— Account of a battle fought near it at the
accession of Mohammed Shah to the throne. — Gum-
ammoniac plant. — Description of the fortress and village
of Yezdehast. — Summer and winter road to Shiraz. —
Abadeh. — Surmeh. — Karavanserai of Dehbid.
Under the hospitable roof, and surrounded by
the friendly attentions of my host, M. E. Bore,
I rested a few days at Isfahan before I resumed
my journey to Persepolis. The time that was
not employed in visiting those acquaintances
with whom I had associated on my former stay
in this town, was spent in the edifying com
pany of this worthy disciple of Christ, who had
willingly given up his worldly prospects, the
TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 45
comforts and pleasures of his native land, to toil,
the cross in hand, for the spiritual regeneration
of his benighted brethren in the East.
I met likewise at his house an intelligent
French traveller, Monsieur le Comte de Sivrac,
who had visited Turkey, Egypt, Nubia, Abys
sinia, and Arabia, and was now travelling
through Persia with the object of acquiring a
comprehensive idea of the state of Muhamme-
danism in the three old continents of the
world. The second day of my arrival, M. Bore
showed me the school he had established for
the Armenian youth at Julfa. Although hardly
five months had elapsed since its foundation,
there were already thirty-one pupils, of whom
five were Mussulmans. The progress they had
made during this short period in reading, trans
lating from French into Armenian and Persian,
as well as in the first elements of geography,
was quite surprising, and showed what perse
verance in a good cause, with God's assistance,
is able to effect. A munshi (a teacher) taught
46 TRAVELS IN
them the Persian, an Armenian master the
Armenian language, although both under the
immediate direction of M. Bore (well versed
in most of the Oriental languages), who took
upon himself the task of teaching the children
the French language and geography, but, above
all, to instruct his young Christian flock in the
sublime doctrines of our revealed faith, whilst
the young Mussulman scholars had their own
Persian Mullah. The fact of Mussulman
parents sending their children to learn at a
Christian institution, and that too at Isfahan,
the seat of Mussulman orthodoxy, is a great
proof of the tolerance of the Persians in .reli
gious matters, to which even the chief priest
set an example. The former Imam-Juma
(lately deceased), to whose ancient family the
people of Isfahan bear a profound veneration,
attaching an idea of sanctity to it, used to take
a peculiar delight in the conversation of the
Catholic missionaries of Julfa on religious sub-
jects. Sayyid Mohammed Baghir, the first
Mushteid, or propounder of the law, to whose
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 47
decisions on points of Mussulman doctrine all
Persia looks up, is also distinguished for the
spirit of toleration, justice, and impartiality,
with which he treats the Christian population
of Julfa whenever they address themselves to
his tribunal.
Independently of the personal character of
the individuals mentioned, several other causes
may have wrought this beneficial change in the
policy of the Mussulman clergy.
Firstly, the progress Suffe'ism has made of
late years in the kingdom. The followers of
this sect, who formerly dared not avow their
sentiments, now openly profess their doctrines,
the main object of which is to keep more to
the spirit than to the letter of the law ;
although many have gone beyond the prescribed
limits, and have become Freethinkers, or else
indifferent, on matters of religion. Even many
members of the clergy profess, if not out
wardly, at least in private, the tenets of the
Suffi. Secondly, it may be attributable to the start
48 travels in
which the secular power has gained over the
clerical in late years ; for even during the reign
of the late King, the influence of the clergy
over public opinion was still very great, and
at times overbearing. As an instance of the
change which has taken place in favour of
Royalty, we may here mention, that although
Fet'h-Ali-Shah was infinitely more proud than
the reigning sovereign, and notwithstanding
that in Persia all is based on etiquette, still
he always paid the first visit to the Mushteid
whenever he went to Isfahan. In 1841, when
Muhammed-Shah was approaching that city,
the same Mushteid came out of the gates to
congratulate his Majesty on his arrival. The
old King, it is true, to keep up appearances,
usually made believe that chance alone brought
him into the vicinity of the Mushteid's dwelling,
and that, being so near, it would be unkind
not to see his old friend after a long absence ;
but then this chance had become a rule from
which the King never deviated, and which the
Mushteid reckoned as his due.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 49
A circumstance which has tended likewise, in
a great measure, to paralyze of late years the
power of the Isfahan clergy, is the successful
blow that has been levelled against the Lutis.
The Lutis are a band of the most unprin
cipled and worst description of individuals, who
club together, and are mixed up with all the
broils which happen in Persian towns where
the police has not much power. At Isfahan
they once formed a regular gang, committing
outrages in open day with impunity, because
they were protected by the clergy. Their
excesses and audacity had arrived at such a
pitch, that after the death of Fet'h-Ali-Shah,
one of these Lutis, named Ramazan, was
proclaimed King by his associates, and styled
Ramazan- Shah. Gold and silver coins were
even struck in his name, and it was only by
a rival Luti that he was put down. This was
all a farce ; but the people suffered by it, and
the civil authorities of the town were brought
into contempt. Khozrow-Khan, one of the old
king's principal eunuchs, succeeded in estab-
VOL. i. e
50 TRAVELS IN
lishing some order ; but at his recall the Lutis
again obtained sway, during the weak adminis
tration of Isfahan by Fazl-Ullah-Khan. It is
reported that at his approach the Isfahan
Lutis, who are known for their ready wit and
daring spirit, went out in a body to meet
him, and being aware with whom they had
to deal, welcomed Fazl-Ullah-Khan, assuring
him that the golden days of Isfahan had
returned, for at the bare notice of his approach,
the Lutis had left the town in a body.
Since the administration of Manucher-Khan,
the Moetemid Daulet, the Lutis, as well as
the other disturbers of the peace, have been
brought to book, and hunted out of their last
places of refuge.
Formerly the whole mahaleh, or quarter of
Bidabad, was reckoned Bast, or a sacred
asylum * for all sorts of malefactors who wished
to avoid the law, because the house of the
Great Mushteid is situated in*-that part of the
town. The Moetemid, in the stern pursuit
* See Note at the end of the chapter.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 51
m
of justice, broke through this privilege, which
time and public opinion had sanctified ; and
many were the culprits who were sent to
Teheran to expiate their misdeeds by being
publicly executed.
On visiting the Moetemid, I learned that he
was making preparations for a military tour
into the other provinces under Ms control,
namely, Luristan and Arabistdn, or Khuzistan.
The Moetemid being acquainted with my roving
propensities, (as we had already met on former
occasions, once in the province of Ghilan, next
on the Turkish frontier, and later on the limits
of Turkomania,) proposed that I should accom
pany him, or, if I were unwilling to relinquish
my trip to Persepolis, that I should, at least,
before I returned to Teheran, visit him at
Shushter, promising, at the same time, to show
me a short cut through the Bakhtiyari moun
tains, between that town and Isfahan.
I had often entertained a wish to penetrate
into the Bakhtiyari country, so little known,
yet so replete with interest, as connected with
e 2
52 TRAVELS IN •
the expedition of Alexander the Great, and his
successors ; and more especially as the country
south of the great chain probably formed the
site of the ancient Flam of Scripture, a powerful
nation in the early days of Abraham, before
the kingdoms of Assyria and Babylon rose into
notice in the east. The learned men of Europe
have for some years past turned their attention
to this quarter, and expressed a wish to know
whether it contains any monuments of anti
quity. But the turbulent and unruly tribes
who inhabit these mountainous regions have
till now nearly precluded all access to them,
not only for European travellers, but even for
the native Persians themselves.
The circumstance of the Governor of Isfahan
going among them with an armed force, ap
peared so favourable an opportunity to explore
this wild country, that I readily accepted his
offer, and promised to visit him at Shushter, as
soon as I had satisfied my curiosity at Takhti
Jemshid. This new scheme introduced a great modifi-
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 53
cation into the plan I had previously chalked
out for my journey. I could no longer set
apart the number of days I wished for Perse
polis, and the ruins on the plain of Murgab,
and I had to make up, by speedy travelling,
the time I should necessarily lose by the cir
cuitous route I intended to pursue on niy return
to Teheran.
On the 1st of January, 1841, at noon, I left
Isfahan, directing my course to the south, by
the road leading to Shiraz. My amiable host,
M. Bore, accompanied me beyond the broken
ground of Hezar-derre, the scene, according to
Persian romance, of the chivalrous feats of their
hero Rustam. The ruins of his palace are
shown to this day, perched on the peak of a
lofty and precipitous branch of the hills to the
west. In the spring of the preceding year,
my friend and myself had ascended these rugged
heights, and visited the ruins, which consist of
several apartments, the walls of which are in
part broken. The building is of the modern
style of Persian architecture, with pointed
54 TRAVELS IN
arched windows and doorways. The walls and
the ceiling are covered with white stucco, and
the masonry so well preserved, that we climbed
to the top of the building in order to command
a better view of the plain of Isfahan, spread
below our feet. With the exception of the
valley of the Gurghan, with the plain of Tur-
komania, from the heights of the Alburs, I
never recollect to have witnessed a more splen
did panorama than that which we enjoyed from
Kal'eh Rustam. The Zoyenderud river was
seen pursuing its meandering course from the
west, through the green fields and numerous
villages of the fertile districts of Linjan and
Marbin, whilst to the north and north-east,
from our elevated station, we had the advantage
of embracing the whole circumference of Isfa
han, with its palaces, gardens, cupolas, minarets,
pigeon- towers, groves, bridges, and ruins scat
tered in grand and lyric confusion. Chains of
mountains forming fantastic groups, traverse the
back ground in different directions, and at
various distances, thus offering materials for
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 55
judging better of perspective, whilst their va
riegated hues give colouring to the landscape.
If, to please the national pride, we admit with
the Persians, that the ruins in question formed
once the abode of their favourite hero, then I
can only add that Rustam's taste at least
equalled in amount the bravery for which they
gave him credit. For there is no spot in the
neighbourhood of Isfahan from whence a better
view can be obtained of the country than from
Kal'eh Rustam, not even from Kuhi-sefa.
On the south-western side of the same hill
are some natural caves in the rocks called
Chesme Multdn, where the old Gebrs, it is said,
buried their dead. Here are the remains of a
few low buildings, evidently for the purpose of
containing dead bodies. A peculiarity which I
had not before noticed in other buildings
was, that together with the cement serving to
join the stones, there were rags. I found like
wise some calcinated bones in these buildings,
which makes me doubt that these catacombs
could ever have belonged to the ancient Gebrs,
56 TRAVELS IN
who never burned their dead. It would have
been an act of impiety and a sacrilege to sully
the pure essence of Ormuzd, typified by fire,
by bringing it in contact with an unclean thing.
Fresh dead bodies were held as such among the
Zend race, just as they were with the Hebrews
according to the laws of Moses. It is a curious
fact, that many enactments on this head, as
well as on other points in the Zoroastrian Creed,
perfectly correspond with the laws of the
inspired legislator of Israel*
May not the sepulchres at the Cheshme, or
springs of Multan, be, with more probability,
attributed to those Indians who in former
ages carried on a considerable land commerce
between Persia and India, through the town of
Multan,j- on the Indus, which formed the
depot of their traffic'? These merchants were
settled in Isfahan, and went by the name of
Multani. It is well known that the custom
* See Rhode — Die Heilige Sage des Zend Volks,
&c. f See note at the end of the chapter.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 57
of burning the dead is still prevalent in
India. I arrived at Mayar, the first station from
Isfahan, at six in the evening, having made
eight farsangs,* or thirty miles, at a brisk trot.
Wishing to reach Yezde-hast the next day, I
left Mayar at night and had for my entertain
ment on the road some splendid fireworks in
the heavens. The sky was beautifully clear —
the stars shone brightly ; the falling stars were
very frequent, leaving behind them a luminous
path as they shot across the firmament in a
curved line ; one in particular, a very bright
meteor, burst in the air, scattering its dazzling
fragments towards our sphere. I am not aware
whether this meteorological phenomenon was
noticed at any observatory. It happened on
the night between the 1st and 2d of January,
* We find in one of the books of the Zend Avesta the
following definition of a farsang : —
" A farsang, it is said, is a distance within which a long
sighted man can see a camel, and distinguish whether it be
white or black." — Bundehesch, cap. xxvi.
58 TRAVELS IN
1841, and probably from two to three in the
morning. The distance from Mayar to Kumisheh is five
and a-half or six farsangs, the road leading
through a sufficiently level tract, with a con
tinuous chain of hills to the west, but having
a more open country to the east, intersected by
low and detached hillocks.
Kumisheh is situated at the southern extre
mity of a plain of several farsangs in extent,
on which there are some villages, and much
cultivated ground ; the country being inter
sected by the kerize, or canals for the irrigation
of the fields. The town is reduced to a small
fortified place, surrounded by a high wall in
good condition, and flanked by bastions ; but
Kumisheh must have been at some former
period a very considerable city, for the ruins
which now surround it are extensive. The
traces of a number of old aqueducts like
wise prove that the neighbourhood must have
been at one time well populated. A rivulet
which flows out of the valley to the south below
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 59
Mahsud-beg, and from the direction of Isferjan,
passes close to the eastern walls of the city,
and is afterwards drained of its waters for the
irrigation of the fields. On approaching
Kumisheh, we passed by the Imam-zadeh
Shah-Riza, a lovely spot, with fine chinars (the
Oriental plane-tree).
Our direction from Kumisheh to Yezde-hast
lay S.S.E. nearly the whole way through a valley
from two to three farsangs in breadth, between
two ranges of low hills, having beyond them to
the west another high chain of mountains
covered with snow, namely, the Bakhtiyari
mountains, or, as I shall later have to call
them, the Ardekan Chain.
At Mahsud-beg, a neat village, four farsangs
distant from Kumisheh, I changed horses, as
I had yet full six farsangs to travel before
I could reach Yezde-hast.
It was on the plain between Mahsud-beg
and Kumisheh that, in the spring of 1835, an
engagement took place between the forces of
the reigning Shah, who had then lately
60 TRAVELS IN
ascended the throne, and the troops of his
uncle the Ferman-Ferma of Fars.
On assuming the reins of government in the
Kajar capital of Teheran, Muhammed-Shah
found it necessary to pacify the southern pro
vinces of his kingdom, where his two uncles,
Husein Ali Mirza, the Ferman-Ferma of Fars,
and Hasan Ali Mirza, Governor of Kerman,
refused to acknowledge his title to the crown
of Persia, and were making preparations to
oppose him by force of arms. On the part
of the King, Firuz Mirza, his step-brother,
was nominally appointed Chief of Fars, but
the real authority was vested in the hands of
Manucher Khan the Moetemid Daulet.
While the Royal troops were moving towards
the south, Hasan Ali Mirza, who had placed
himself at the head of a small army to uphold
the pretensions of his elder brother to the
throne, had left Shiraz and was hastening to
Isfahan. As the inhabitants of the latter city,
instigated by the clergy, and by one of the
old ministers of the late Shah, were inimically
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 61
disposed to the young King, it became a matter
of material importance to prevent this junction
from taking place, which was within a hair's-
breadth of occurring.
Both armies had entered the valley of Ku
misheh without knowing they were so near
each other. The rebels had taken the upper
road, along the foot of the western range, or
the Kuhi Tangun; while the troops of the
Shah were following the skirts of the Kuhi
Dumbula, or the eastern range' of mountains.
Although the rival camps were not more than
three or four farsangs asunder, the mist was
so thick that they were prevented from seeing
each other. Hasan Ali Mirza was in advance of
the Royal troops, nearer to Kumisheh than they
were. An imprudent shot which was fired in
his camp awakened the suspicions of the oppo
site party. It was the more delicate ear of
a female that first caught the sound, rendered
very indistinct from the denseness of the fog,
and gave the alarm. This female was an Arme
nian lady, the wife of an English officer, then
62 TRAVELS IN
in the service of the Shah, and though a
woman of a very diminutive figure, was still
possessed of great personal courage and a fear
less rider.* The shot was fired by order of
Hasan Ali Mirza, as a signal to apprize the
inhabitants of Kumisheh of his approach, for
they likewise were enlisted in his cause, and
only waited for his arrival to open the gate
for his reception. Proper measures were in
stantly adopted by Sir Henry Bethune (General
Lindsey, or Linji, as the Persians called him),
who headed the troops of the Shah, to take
the enemy by surprise, and they proved so
effectual that the rebel troops were soon routed.
It was a sauve qui peut, Hasan Ali Mirza being
one of the foremost to take his flight into the
mountains. The valley of Kumisheh possesses a con
siderable number of villages, too tedious to
enumerate, and well cultivated fields on the
western bank of the rivulet, previously noticed,
but the eastern side is chiefly a barren plain.
* The widow of the late Captain Shee.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 63
I here gathered the gum of a resinous plant.
It still adhered to the stem in the form of
congealed drops. This is the gum ammoniac
which grows in great profusion on the plain.
I collected several specimens of the plant,
although it was dry at this season, and sent
them to my much esteemed friend, Mr. de
Fisher, Director of the Imperial Botanical
Garden at St. Petersburgh.*
Leaving behind us Aminabad and the ruins of
Gudehgil, we arrived at Yezde-hast near sunset,
and were introduced into the gates of this
* The elegant author of " The History of the Manners
and Customs of Ancient Greece," in enumerating the
various articles which were introduced into Greece by its
trade with foreign countries, mentions, among others, the
gum ammoniac, which, he says, " Distils in a milky juice
from an umbelliferous plant, growing in the Desert, near
the Oracle of Jupiter Ammon, as well as on the confines
of Cyrene ; whence it appears to have been chiefly ex
ported." (See Mr. St. John's " History of the Manners
and Customs of Ancient Greece,'7 vol. iii. chap. xiii. p. 383.)
This gum derived its name of ammoniac, or ammonium,
probably from the circumstance of the plant's growing in
the vicinity of the Temple of Jupiter Ammon.
64 TRAVELS IN
original fort by a drawbridge lowered down for
our reception. The fortress of Yezde-hast is
perched on the summit of an isolated rock,
standing in a ravine, with abrupt perpendicular
banks on its several faces. A steep ascent leads
up to the gate, from which you are still
separated by a yawning chasm, over which the
inhabitants throw a drawbridge to allow en
trance into the stronghold. The fort has two
rows of houses, which are two stories high,
and separated by a narrow street. The people
of the place took me to an ancient edifice, where,
according to tradition, there once stood a temple,
and pointed out some fragments of columns, but
it had grown so dark, and I felt, moreover, so
fatigued from the day's journey, that I did not
pay much attention to the place. Yezde-hast is
certainly prior to the Arab conquest, and is
traceable to Gebr origin by the very name it
bears, the Zend-word Yezd-hast being interpreted
by God willed it.
I found the inhabitants rather impudent, and
very rapacious; probably because they feel
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 65
themselves more secure than their neighbours in
their stronghold, and can with more safety defy
the authorities. Although accustomed to hard
riding, and fond of the exercise, I felt bruised
all over by the last two days' ride, from the pre
ceding halting-place at Mayar. The distance to
Yezde-hast is sixteen farsangs, equal to sixty
miles ; but it was not so much the distance as
the jolting paces of the post-horses.
The people of the place showed me the
spot from whence their forefathers had, in
the last century, exercised a summary and retri
butive justice on the person of Zeki-Khan, the
brother of Kerim-Khan-Zend. Unlike the
latter, who governed Persia after the death of
Nadir Shah, under the title of Vakil, and was
a man distinguished for his humane and bene
volent character, Zeki-Khan was cruel and op
pressive. Displeased at the inhabitants of
Yezde-hast for refusing to pay a certain contri
bution which he endeavoured to force on them,
he ordered several of their chief men to be
thrown down the precipitous rock of the castle
VOL. 1. F
66 TRAVELS IN
in his presence. This act of barbarity so exas
perated the rest, that they seized on the tyrant,
and inflicted on him the same punishment he
had caused their fellow-citizens to suffer, by
casting him out of the window of his apartment
which overlooked an abyss, so that he was
dashed to pieces by the fall.
My night was rendered restless by revolving
in my mind all the black and sanguinary deeds
which had been perpetrated within these walls,
and I rose in the morning without feeling re
freshed. While the horses were getting ready,
I descended the steep hill to examine at the foot
of it the numerous caverns excavated in the
same rock, which upholds the fort of Yezde-hast.
They are partly the work of nature, aided by
the hand of man, and sufficiently spacious to
contain the flocks of the inhabitants, as well as
the horses, mules, and camels of the caravans
that stop here during the night. Some have
been turned into dukans, or shops, provided with
the necessaries for travellers.
This day, 3d January, I made fifteen farsangs,
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 67
or fifty-six and a-half miles, passing first through
Shulgestdn, distant six farsangs from Yezde-hast ;
then Abadeh, reckoned five farsangs from the
former, and Surmeh four farsangs more. I now
moved along the lower or winter road lying to
the east of the summer route to Shiraz. The
country as I advanced became less barren than
I had found it around Yezde-hast. Abadeh,
although surrounded with some ruins and aban
doned gardens, still preserves a neat appearance.
It is the chief place of a district, which, bearing
the same name, is encompassed by a mud wall
protected by turrets, and pays an annual tax of
six thousand tomans, or about three thousand
pounds, to the Divan.
The general direction of the road is south
east, the four last farsangs leaning rather E.S.E.
About Surmeh the country is particularly well
cultivated, and abounding in villages.
Nine farsangs distant from Surmeh, in a
direct line to the east, lies the town of
Aberguh, a fortified place, which has many
villages under its control, and falls at present
f 2
68 TRAVELS IN
under the jurisdiction of Isfahan, to which a
road leads through the desert. It is governed by
the brother-in-law of the Il-Khani of Fars, by
name Mohamed Kasim Khan, whom the late
Ferman Ferma of Fars, deprived of his sight,
on account of his having favoured the interests
of the deceased Naib-Sultan, Abbas-Mirza,
father of the present Shah. The 4th of
January brought me to the karavanserai of
Dehbid, close to a huge heap of earth, which
in some remote time must have been a large
edifice. The natives call it the Gumbed-i-
Behram, and add, that it was one of the
eight pleasure palaces built by that sportsman,
Shah Behram-Gur. I found the night at the
karavanserai bitterly cold, as no fuel could
be procured; neither was there a door to the
little cell I occupied, so that the piercing
wind blew freely in during the whole night.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 69
NOTES TO CHAPTER in.
Page 50. — The custom prevailing in the East, of having
places of asylum, owes its origin probably to the Mosaic
law concerning the six cities of refuge, which were
allotted to such who had slain any person at unawares.
" Then shall ye appoint you cities to be cities of refuge
for you ; that the slayer may flee thither, which killeth
any person at unawares. And they shall be unto you
cities for refuge from the avenger ; that the manslayer
die not, until he stand before the congregation in judg
ment," &c, &c. Numbers xxxv. 11, 12. (See likewise
in Joshua xx. 1 — 9, for the names of the six cities of
refuge, and the rules laid down for them.)
Independently of the mosques, the stables of the Shah
are reckoned sacred places, more particularly close to the
manger of the King's riding horses.
In the year 1837, before the campaign of Khorassan,
one of the Persian foot regiments happening to be dis
satisfied with their Chief, took their station among the
Royal horses piquetted near the garden of Negaristan
(close to the walls of Teheran), where the King was at
the time residing, and remained there, with their planted
colours, several weeks, until their commander was changed,
and another one appointed mofe to their liking.
The huge gun that stands on an elevated platform in
the great Maidan, or outer court-yard of the palace at
Teheran, is likewise considered a sanctuary to which the
military repair sometimes when they become clamorous
about receiving the arrears of their salary.
70 TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN.
A place of refuge, somewhat similar to these Persian
basts, as they are called, existed formerly in the city of
London, where debtors could not be molested by their
creditors, and were out of reach of pursuit. This place
bore the name of Alsatia, and embraced, if I am not
mistaken, the space between Blackfriars-bridge and Temple-
bar, leading to the water side. In Pennant's account of
London we read the following passage : — " Its precincts
(the great house of Black friars, or Dominicans) was very
large, had four gates, and contained numbers of shops,
the inhabitants of which were subject only to the King,
the Superior of the house, and their own Justices. It
also became a sanctuary for debtors, and even malefactors,
a privilege which it preserved even long after the repres
sion of religious houses."
Page 56. — Chardin, in his description of Isfahan, men
tions the following : —
" Le caravanserai des Multaniens est situe a cote d'un
beau bazar qui porte le meme nom de Multaniens qui
sont les Indiens de Multan — la Ire ville des Indes, du
cote de la forteresse de Candahar, qui est sur la frontiere
de la Perse, vers le nord. Tout le Commerce des Lades
en Perse se faisait communement par la, avant la navi
gation des Europeens au sein Persique." — (Voyages de
Chardin en Perse, &c, torn, vii., p. 360, edition de
Langles.)
CHAPTER IV.
Arrival at the Village of Meshedi-Murgab.— Arab
Settlers. — Fertility of the Plain of Murgab.— Boundary.
— River of Murgab, the Medus of the Ancients. — View
of the ruins from an elevation. — Goher-Shah. —
Takhti-Madre Soliman. — Custom among the Eastern
Monarchs of giving audiences in the open air. — Zindan
or Dustagh-Khaneh. — Visit the Tomb of Meshedi
Madre Soliman. — Supposed Tomb of Cyrus. — Oppo
sition made by the Hiyats. — Evening spent in their
Tents. — Karavanserai of Murgab, the supposed abode
of the Magi. — The Pilaster with the Cherub. — Dis
covery of a dial cut on the white stone steps of the
Tomb of Cyrus. — Hieroglyphics. — Traverse the Ak-
Gaduk and Valley of Kamin. — Arrival at Seidan.
After a fatiguing and cold morning ride, first
along the plain of Kunkuri, in a southern
direction, then over a hilly country, we de
scended into a fine plain, encompassed by
lofty mountains, and alighted at the village
of Meshedi-Murgab, seven farsangs (twenty-
six and a-half miles) distant from Dehbid.
72 TRAVELS IN
It is inhabited by an Arab tribe, who have
been settled at this place ever since the time
of the Muhammedan conquest of Persia. The
men are very brown, but well proportioned,
and of a fine stately appearance. Some of
the women are beautiful, with delicate features,
and comparatively fair. The weather being warm
and pleasant, I found them sitting outside
their dwellings weaving carpets. I had been
accustomed to find the Uiyats, and the half
sedentary tribes generally, very filthy, and
was, therefore, not a little surprised to see
so much cleanliness around me. The only
inconvenience I experienced was, that the
obliging housewives, in their anxiety to make
the room destined for my reception look still
cleaner, raised such a dust that it was some
time before I could venture to occupy it.
The soil of Murgab is very productive,
being well watered; but, for want of hands,
it is not much cultivated. The Arabs assured
me, that in consequence of the scarcity of
population, great tracts of very rich and fertile
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 73
land have not been touched by the plough
for upwards of fifty years. On newly tilled
ground, well watered by artificial means, the
crop yields from twenty to twenty-five fold of
barley and wheat; under less advantageous
circumstances, the harvest does not exceed
from twelve to fifteen fold. The soil of
Murgab belongs to the Divan, that is to say,
is Crown property, and leased, together with
the water, to the peasantry. The Divan
furnishes them, at the same time, with the
necessary grain for seed. Out of the profits
of the harvest, the husbandman pays two
parts to the land-owner, retaining one-third
for his labour and the use of his oxen and
implements of husbandry.
The soil in general is of a clayey substance,
rendering the roads across the plain scarcely
practicable during the rainy seasons of autumn
and winter.
The plain of Murgab extends from four to
four and a-half farsangs from east to west,
and about three farsangs from north to south.
74 TRAVELS IN
A hilly country separates it on the north from
the extensive plain of Kunkuri; a range of
mountains on its eastern side divides it from
the buluk or district of Baynbd, rich in exten
sive orchards full of fruit trees. Another
belt of high hills severs it from the valley of
Kamin to the south; while the Bulverdi hills
close it in on the west and south-west, beyond
which rise the lofty heights of the Ardekan,
capped with eternal snow.
The valley of Murgab is traversed in its
whole extent by a river which bears its name.*
It takes its rise in the Bulverdi, or, perhaps,
even the Ardekan hills, and after running
across the southern extremity of the Kunkuri
plain from west to east, and passing by the
karavanserai of Khuneh Karsin under a bridge,
which I had crossed on coming from Dehbid,
it bends to the south, and, disappearing for a
while behind the mountains, makes its reappear-
* It is the same which in Sir Robert Kerr Porter's
" Travels in Persia," &c, is called the Kur-ab, the Medus
of the ancients. See vol. i., pp. 484, and 512.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 75
ance in the plain of Murgab, through which
it flows along the eastern wall which separates
the town of Murgab from Baynod. It then
turns to the west, crossing the plain till it
reaches Tengi-Sivend, or the defile of Sivend.
Having ploughed its way through the hills
in a south-western direction, the Murgab river
reappears in the district of Hafrek, where it
assumes the name of Polvar. Passing close to
the ruined city of Istakhr, it enters the plain
of Merdasht, having the Husein-Kuh, with the
sculptures of Nakshi-Rustam to the right, and
the Kuhi-Rahmed, with the bas-reliefs of
Nakshi Rejeb and the ruins of Takhti Jemshid,
to the left. The Polvar runs in a south
westerly direction across the plain, and joins
the Kum-Firuz (ancient Araxes) near the
bridge of Puli Khan, serving, in its latter
course, as a line of demarcation between the
districts of Merdasht to its left, and Hafrek to
the right.
Independently of the waters of the Murgab,
which fertilize the plain to a great extent, there
76 TRAVELS IN
are several springs. Canals likewise intersect
the country in various directions, especially on
the western side of the valley. This abundance
of water produces fine pastures, on which droves
of mares are turned out to graze.
When we consider these natural advantages,
we are not surprised that the plain of Murgab
attracted the attention of men in the earliest
ages of the world ; and the grand relics scat
tered over the ground attest that the people who
erected them must have attained a considerable
degree of civilization, although we may lose
ourselves in conjectures as to the probable time
when they flourished.
Leaving one of my servants with the baggage
at the village of Murgab, I took the other,
together with a native guide, to explore the
curiosities of the plain. We traversed some
canals in a south-westerly course, and came
near two low piles, which, I was told, bore the
name of Gohcr-Shah, and was formerly an
Atash-Kadeh (fire-altar). I was prevented from
bestowing close examination on it by a stream
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 77
which separated me from it, and was difficult
to cross on account of the swampy nature of
the ground, covered with reeds. From thence
we rode up a hillock, which had, till then,
intercepted the sight of the plain with the ruins.
It was meant probably as a surprise for me by
my Arab Cicerone, for the view from this com
manding spot over the whole country is truly
beautiful. The hillock is advantageously situated
for taking the different bearings of the ruins
and the villages on the plain. Its summit is
flattened, and presents a spacious arena. It
may have been here that those immense piles
of fuel were accumulated, and set on fire, which
are mentioned in Appian's " History of the
Mithridatic wars." It was a custom, he says,
among the Persian kings, to offer such sacrifices
at Pasargada. I did not, however, observe any
calcined remains.
Opposite to this mound, in an easterly di
rection, rises the known Takhti Sohman, or
Throne of Solomon, on the edge of a hill.
It would be superfluous to enter into any
78 TRAVELS IN
lengthened description of this or the other
monuments on the same plain, as former tra
vellers have already amply treated of the
subject. I shall confine myself, therefore, to
a few remarks only, as I proceed. I feel much
inclined to concur in Sir William Ouseley's
opinion, that Takhti Soliman presents the
throne of the ancient kings of Persia,* or at
least the place where they used to sit in
public ; for this custom is perfectly in unison
with the Oriental taste, even to the present
day. I often witnessed the reigning Shah
at the commencement of his reign, take his
seat on an elevated mound in the plain of
Teheran, with a simple awning over his head,
and at times even without any, in order to be
seen by the assembled multitude, and there
hold his salam, or public audience, surrounded
by his courtiers, with all the pomp and pa
geantry of Eastern magnificence. At that time
the Deputies from the distant provinces of the
* See Sir W. Ouseley's " Travels in various Countries of
the East," &c, vol. ii., page 435.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 79
kingdom, and the Chiefs of the Nomadic tribes,
with their numerous retinue, were assembled
to pay homage to their new Sovereign ; and
it may have been the same with Cyrus, on the
plains of Pasargada, when he received the
oaths of fealty and allegiance from the dif
ferent sections of the Persian race, as well as
from the representatives of the other conquered
nations. The huge blocks of which the monument is
constructed, are partly white, partly yellow,
and of a rusty colour ; but they have little or
no polish, and none of the transparency of
the Yezd and the Maragha (commonly called
the Tabriz) marble. I learnt from my guide
that quarries of a similar stone are found near
Deh-bid, about nine farsangs to the north of
Murgab, but none nearer. Having taken a
front and a side sketch of this imposing struc
ture, we moved to the next monument, which
the country-people call the Zindan, or Dustagh-
Khaneh (the prison), but which by antiquaries
is denominated the fire-altar. It resembles the
80 TRAVELS IN
building close to Nakshi-Rustam, on the plain
of Persepolis, which goes by the name of
Zerdusht-Khaneh, or abode of Zoroaster. It
is a curious square edifice, built of the same
sort of stone as Takhti Soliman ; and the hollow
niches in the walls justify, to a certain extent,
the comparison an old traveller makes between
the structure of this building and the pigeon-
houses near Isfahan, when seen from a dis
tance ; although the latter have generally a
circular form, while the Zindan-Khaneh is
square. I was so much taken up with ex
amining and sketching the ruins, that I did
not notice how time stole on, till I was re
minded that it was getting late, and that I
had a ride of six miles to return to the Tallage.
I had not yet seen the principal relic of
Murgab — the supposed tomb of Cyrus, a white
monument, which was visible from a distance.
I therefore determined to spend the night at
the black tents of the Uiyats, which I could
discern in the same direction. Before dis
missing my guide for the night, I took him to
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 81
their encampment, that he might give me over
into the charge of the Sheikh, or elder of
the tribe, having learned that the Uiyats on
this plain were not to be trusted. He had
then to return to Meshedi-Murgab, and direct
the postillion and my servant, who had re
mained behind with the travelling bags, to
join me. As soon as we arrived at the en
campment, we were surrounded by the Uiyats,
whom curiosity had brought to the spot; and
whilst they were listening to the reports of
my guide about the strange Frengi, I placed
the bridle of my horse into the hands of
my Persian servant, and hastened to the
mausoleum close by. I was aware, from ac
counts of previous travellers, that no man is
allowed to enter the interior of the sepulchre,
it being supposed by the natives to contain
the remains of the mother of King Solomon
(hence its name of Meshedi-Madre Soliman).
I was apprehensive that, if followed by any of
the Uiyats, I should be prevented from so
doing, and I felt very desirous to view the
VOL. I. G
82 TRAVELS IN
interior of this curious building. It is a square
edifice, covered by a sloping roof, and resting
on a pyramidal basis, formed of white marble.
To enter at the door of the sepulchre, you are
obliged to climb up seven high steps. I made
all the haste I could, but as the building from
its height and position is exposed to view, I
had scarcely entered when loud cries assailed
my ears. I judged it therefore prudent to
retreat, after throwing a glance around the cell
to convince myself that it was empty.* The
women were clamorous in their vociferations,
the men, with menacing gestures, threatened
to pull me down the steps. I signified to them
that they need not be in such a hurry, as I
could descend without their help; and that
they appeared to be very brave, probably be
cause they saw I was alone. If I had profaned
* I was not aware at the time that Sir Robert Kerr
Porter had visited the interior of the tomb of Cyrus by
the permission of the two old women who were then the
guardians at the shrine of Kabri-Madre- Soliman. See
Travels in Georgia, Persia, &c, vol. i. page 500.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 83
(as they deemed it) the sanctuary, they were
themselves to blame, for not apprizing me
sooner ; as a Frengi and a stranger, 1 was not
obliged to know their customs and modes of
faith, but, now that I was informed they had
a particular veneration for the spot, I would
not enter more. This reasoning had some
effect, for the mob became less vehement, and,
wishing to draw their attention into another
channel, I added that probably there was a
mullah to guard the temple, and if so, it was
his duty to prevent strangers from entering
the shrine ; observing that undoubtedly he never
failed to claim his tithes from the community;
whereas, when it was necessary to perform his
duty, he was absent from his post. This charge
against the mutaveli (the guardian of a sacred
place), pleased the Uiyats; they acquiesced in
the justness of the remark, and laughed at the
expense of their white-turbaned mullah, who
had been foremost in his gesticulations, but
looked at present rather sheepish. Turning to
the old Sheikh, my host, who had just arrived,
g 2
84 TRAVELS IN
I told him that, if he wished to appear before
me with a white face* he should show his
authority by dispersing the rabble, as they
hindered me from sketching the exterior of
the tomb. The old Arab made some bustle
among the crowd, which gave way, but soon
resumed their former station, prompted by
curiosity to see the drawing. What chiefly
attracted their notice, was the lead-pencil.f
The rest of the evening I spent pleasantly
enough in the tent of the Sheikh. The Uiyats
dropped in one by one, and took their seats
around the canvass walls of the tent, while the
women and children thronged at the entrance or
peeped through the apertures. As we had
already made friends at the foot of the tomb,
they soon became very communicative, and
although their manners were uncouth and their
* A Persian expression signifying irreproachable, whilst
to appear with a black face means to have incurred the
displeasure of one's superior.
f A leaden-pencil in the Russian language is Karan-
dash, evidently of Turkish origin. Kara meaning black,
and dash a stone.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 85
minds, as it may well be supposed, perfectly
uncultivated, they evinced a great fund of
natural sense and ready wit. They recounted
many anecdotes, discoursed on the tatooing of
their women, a practice very prevalent in
Persia, laughed very loud, inquired into the
habits of Europeans, and sang some wild airs
to the accompaniment of a flageolet. Their
songs consisted chiefly of commemoration of
the daring exploits of a Mamaseni robber, who
had gained some celebrity among the moun
taineers of Fars, but had been seized and
imprisoned at Tabriz with his eldest son, where
they are still detained. His name is Veli-Khan,
and that of his son Bagher-Khan. I shall
hereafter allude to these brigands, having sub
sequently passed through the country which
had been the scene of their lawless pursuits,
and visited their tribe, the Mamaseni. The
old Sheikh, my host, pleased me the least of
the party; he lacked that blunt frankness so
often met with among these wild children of
nature. There lurked something sinister and
86 TRAVELS IN
false in his looks, as he sat wrapt in his felt
coat, with his long beard, dyed orange, flowing
down to his waist, which contrasted with the
open countenance of his son, a man of thirty
or thirty-five, who won my heart by the affec
tion he showed to his little daughter, a baby
of two years old, which he caressed and danced
on his knees till she fell asleep.
The Persians in general care little for their.
daughters ; and it would be reckoned almost
an affront to wish them joy on the increase of
their family if it prove a female child.
As the night was far advanced, I gave up
the hope of seeing my attendants arrive from
Meshedi-Murgab, and not wishing to avail
myself of the dirty pillows of my Iliyat friends,
I preferred laying my head on my saddle, the
more so as I had my brace of pistols in a belt
attached to it, such precautions not being
superfluous in the country through which I was
travelling. My only companion in the tent
when the party broke up was a donkey, tied
up in a corner and surrounded by a heap of
TWO INSCRIPTIONS
/IT Ml-fCHSDJ Mt//fG/IB/
C&** Jo S£e &™Jof c^W.
&cfa ^£*t*L&UA/l0rt' 0TI
4U
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 87
bags of all sizes piled one on the other. The
night was cold, and I felt rather chilly under
my light riding cloak.
At break of day the son of the Sheikh took
me over the demolished karavanserai, around
which the tents of the Arabs were pitched,
while some families, with their cattle, occupied
the cells of the building. It is supposed to
have been the abode of the magi who were
appointed to guard the tomb of Cyrus; but
however that may be, the remains of the edifice
appear of more recent architecture than the
other ruins in the plain. What is preserved
of the gateway is quite in the Saracenic style,
and has even an Arab inscription, which I
copied.* I next went on horseback to examine
some ruins which I had not visited the pre
ceding day, among others the pilaster, with the
figure of an angel with four wings, of which
Sir Rober Kerr Porter has given a faithful
drawing. It is, however, by close examination
only that one can trace the features on the
* See the two Cufic inscriptions.
88 TRAVELS IN
marble pilaster. Some Arab Uiyats, who stood
gazing on while I was trying to make out the
figure, only became aware of its existence on
the stone after they had seen the copy on paper.
They owned they had never observed it before,
although in the daily habit of frequenting the
ruins. In the meanwhile, my servant and the
chapar-shagird, or post-boy, arrived with the
horses, but before quitting the place, I once
more went to bid farewell to the majestic white
mausoleum. This time the Uiyats willingly accompanied
me. On ascending the steps and making a tour
round the upper building, I found on one of the
angles facing the south a dial cut in the stone,
with Arab characters on it. The gnomon was
wanting, but on sticking into the hole a small
peg in its stead, I explained to the astonished
Uiyats the use of the dial, and recommended
them not to be too hasty in future against the
Frengi, who far from wishing them any evil, are
ever ready to teach them what is useful. I do
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 89
not know how far the lesson will be remem
bered; but my new friends seemed highly
satisfied with this unexpected discovery. I
must not here omit a much more important
discovery which was made a few years ago
by the Catholic missionary of the Propaganda,
Padre Giovanni, of Isfahan, of some hiero
glyphics among the marble slabs on the tomb
of Cyrus.
As I became apprized of their existence only
on my return to Teheran, I greatly regret
having missed the opportunity of directing a
particular attention to them whilst on the spot,
because the rough sketch the good Padre kindly
communicated to me of the hieroglyphics which
he drew from memory, can give but an imperfect
idea of their meaning. It would be, therefore,
very desirable if any European traveller, whom
chance or love of antiquarian pursuits might
lead to Murgab, should favour the friends of
ancient Persia and Egypt with a correct copy
of them.
According to the Padre's description and the
90 TRAVELS IN
drawing before me, it appears that the upper
part of the stone has a long figure in a reclining
posture with some ornaments on the head,
amongst which is the head of a bird with a
hooked beak. At the feet is another figure,
standing erect with extended arms, long legs,
and a dog's muzzle, or a hog's snout, with a long
tube projecting from its mouth to the feet of the
couching figure. May it not present the Ha-
rami, or Siriosh, the evil spirit (div) who, ac
cording to the cosmogony of the ancient Parsi
comes to torment the dead 1 Behind it are two
small figures, one quite unintelligible, and the
other a little four-legged animal springing into
the air.
On the other side of the same stone is a
group of six figures in a row; the three first
from left to right are quadrupeds, but it is diffi
cult to guess of what species. The first is repre
sented in a running attitude; over the second
is a long serpent with its head just above the
head of the animal, Avhich is drawn only with its
fore-feet ; the third may possibly be a horse,
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 91
on which a thick clumsy figure is seated
astride. The fourth resembles somewhat the figure
mentioned with a dog's muzzle, or hog's snout,
and a robe descending to the ankles. It has a
long pole in its hand held in a horizontal
position. All the four figures have their faces
turned to the right. It is impossible to say
what the meaning of the fifth figure may be ;
perhaps the bust of a human being down to the
waist. The sixth and last of the group is
another quadruped, with the head turned towards
the figure first described; but both head and
legs are mutilated, whilst the tail is curled up
over the back.
I am aware that from this imperfect delinea
tion no satisfactory idea can be gleaned, and
that the stone with these curious carvings will
require a closer inspection and more accurate
drawings, before any judgment can be pro
nounced on them. But if no decisive opinion
can be formed on the subject, some specu
lation may be entertained, and, at all events,
92 TRAVELS IN
the presence of hieroglyphics in the plain of
Murgab gives an additional weight to the
observations which have already been made with
respect to the winged cherubim ; namely, that
an intimate connexion must have existed be
tween the two countries of Persia and Egypt
at some remote time of history; at all events
since the reign of Cambyses, the son of
Cyrus, who made an expedition into the latter
country.* From the tomb of Cyrus we travelled over
the plain in a southern direction for about a
farsang, crossing the Murgab river halfway ;
we then commenced a steep ascent, and went
along a belt of mountains which separates
Murgab from the julgeh, or valley of Kamin.
It bears the name of Ak-Gaduk (or white
mountain pass), on account of the chalky nature
of the hills, and is rather less than a farsang
in breadth, pierced by two defiles, the one to
* The hieroglyphics just described are, in some respects,
not unlike the symbolic figures that are found among the
ancient ruined cities of America.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 93
the right called Tengi-Sivend, through which
the Murgab river finds a passage;* the other
to the left, denominated the Tengi-Gilelek,
very narrow and hardly practicable. We next
descended into the valley of Kamin by a steep
declivity, passed through the village of Halilek,
or Kamin, a considerable place, and moved on
in a S.S.W. direction.
The julgeh of Kamin, a farsang in breadth
from north to south, and about three in length
from east to west, is a well-cultivated valley,
with pasture-ground, and several villages. The
most considerable, after Halilek, appeared to
be that of Kal'eh Begum, defended by strong
mud walls. We ascended another belt of
mountains, similar to the one we had just
passed, and came down by the bed of a
torrent, stumbling over rugged rocks, or sliding
down the slippery stones, washed by the moun
tain streams, at the risk every moment of
* Mr. Morier calls it likewise the Rood Khaneh Sewund,
or river of Siwend. (See his first "Journey in Persia,"
p. 142.)
94 TRAVELS IN
breaking our necks. The rain had set in and
we were drenched to the skin before we could
gain our resting-place at the village of Seidan,
situated near the foot of the hill in the Buluk,
or district of Hafrek, after passing the village
of Poru, at the southern entrance of the defile
we had just crossed. A blazing fire, which
I kept up during the whole night, served to
dry the wet clothes, while a dish of hot
pillau arrived very apropos, I having made but
a scanty breakfast on pomegranates.
The next morning turned out fine, and on
rising my heart throbbed at the idea that I
was going to behold the ruins of Persepolis,
those splendid and mysterious remains of hoary
antiquity.* It is a strange feature in the
nature of man, that he either looks forward
to the future, or clings to the past. All that
* We find in Mr. Rich, when speaking of Persepolis,
an expression so exquisitely true to nature, that we cannot
resist the temptation of repeating it. " I was," he says,
" in the moment of enjoying what I had long wished for,
and what a delightful moment that is /" (" Narrative of a
Residence in Kurdistan,'' &c, vol. ii. p. 219.)
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 95
we possess of poetry in our hearts is conse
crated to these two points ; the present is the
prose of life.
Our course lay in a western direction, through
the plain of Hafrek, which is bounded on the
north by the chain we had crossed the pre
ceding day, and is the continuation of the
Husein-Ruh, where the Nakshi-Rustam sculp
tures are found, and the hills Rahmed-Kuh
on the south. The breadth of the plain does
not exceed one farsang ; it is well irrigated by
canals, cut in various directions, and is well
cultivated; the villages are, for the most part,
situated on the skirts of the hills to the north
and south of the valley.
After a ride of half a farsang, we crossed
the Murgab river, which here assumes the
name of Polvar, issuing from the defiles of
Si vend, and joined by the stream coming from
Poru. On the opposite side of the river is
the Imam Zadeh Abdullah. A farsang more
brought us to the village of Hajji-Abad,
the residence of the chief of the district of
96 TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN.
Merdasht, and the spot on which the ancient
city of Istakhr once stood.
The distance from Hajji-Abad to the bas-
reliefs of Nakshi-Rustam is one farsang ; here
I stopped to sketch the external face and visit
the interior of the Royal tombs, hewn high in
the rocks, before I took possession of my night's
lodging at the village of Husein-Abad, half a
farsang further to the west.
CHAPTER V.
Rock with bas-reliefs at Nakshi-Rustam. — The four Royal
tombs. — Entrance into the first and third of these tombs,
with descriptions of them. — Manner of ascent and descent.
— The parents of King Darius killed in their attempt to
visit one of the tombs. — Gebr explanation of the circlet
often found in the hands of the Sasanian monarchs on
the bas-reliefs of Persia. — Definition of the Costi by the
Baron Silvestre de Sacy, according to the Zoroastrian
faith. — Observations on a golden cup with figures on it,
found in a tumulus near the Caspian Sea, in reference to
the Costi, and the distinction between Iran and Aniran. — ¦
Night visit to the rock of Istakhr. — Disturb an Iliyat
encampment. — Account of the rock and ruined fort on
its summit. — Historical recollections. — Greek captives
brought before Alexander on approaching Persepolis. —
Description of the plain of Merdasht. — Its fertility. —
Nakshi-Kejeb. — Formation of the rocks. — First impres
sion on seeing the ruins of Takhti-Jemshid.
The rocks on which the bas-reliefs of Nakshi-
Rustam are sculptured bear the name of Kuhi-
Husein. They form the continuation of the
ridge lying south of the valley of Kamin, and
VOL. I. H
98 travels in
serve for a northern boundary to the buluk or
district of Hafrek.
These cliffs of white and yellowish marble
are very rugged, with hardly any slope towards
the plain. It is on the face of these rocks
that the ancient generations of men have com
mitted to posterity their feats of glory and the
tokens of their knowledge in the arts and
sciences. These sculptured rocks form the
archives of time. Here the lover of antiquity
comes to pay his homage to the relics of former
ages ; the philologist to decipher an unknown
alphabet, and rescue from oblivion a language
perhaps the primitive mode of speech in the
world : here the artist repairs to study the rules
of architecture in their pristine simplicity and
grandeur, while the historian distinguishes the
different dynasties, as they followed in order of
time, by analyzing the various styles of the
sculptured remains.
The more ancient sculptures are known by
the name of the Royal tombs. They are seven
in number, of which four are at Nakshi-
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 99
Rustam, and three at Takhti-Jemshid. The
former are supposed to have- contained the first
four Persian monarchs after Cyrus, namely,
Cambyses, Darius I., Xerxes, and Artaxerxes I.
The remaining three kings of the Achemenid
race are supposed to have been interred in the
three other tombs in the rock of Rahmed, at
Takhti-Jemshid. The first of the tombs at Nakshi-Rustam,
beginning from the north-west side of the
mountain, has been visited by several travellers,
presenting less danger in the ascent than the
others ; and Sir Robert Kerr Porter has given
a detailed description of its interior. I like
wise commenced with the more accessible of
the four tombs. The kedkhuda of the vil
lage of Huseinabad, with whom I was to
lodge, came to volunteer his services; and I
found his presence of great assistance.
The above-mentioned tombs at Nakshi-
Rustam have the form of a Greek cross, of
which the lower part is cut much deeper into
the rock than the upper. From the lower
h 2
100 TRAVELS INI
division my Cicerone climbed up the stone wall
with such dexterity that it gave me confidence
in the man. From the platform of the second
division, where the wings of the cross extend
horizontally, a door-way leads into the interior
of the hill. When the kedkhuda had reached
this, a rope was thrown to him from below
by our party, one end of which he kept in his
hand, while the other was tied round my waist ;
and in this way I was drawn up. The swing
was not very agreeable, the height being con
siderable, measuring, according to Sir R. K.
Porter, upwards of sixty feet.
Having reached the interior of the cave I
observed three vaulted niches in its further
end, having in each recess an excavation,
which probably served for a coffin, covered
by a stone convex lid. Large holes have
been made into these lids from curiosity to
see what was contained within. They are
now empty, but there must have been a time
when they were occupied, either by the mortal
remains of kings or their treasures, perhaps
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 101
both, as we learn from ancient historians, that
the riches amassed by the Persian sovereigns
during their lifetime were at their death
interred along with them. (See Strabo xv. 3.)
The first spoiler of these tombs may have
removed the coverlids without breaking them,
and after emptying the contents, have replaced
them over the untenanted cavities. It certainly
required great manual force to displace them,
but those who had the means at their com
mand of breaking through the wall and thus
entering the closed cavern, could surely achieve
the more easy task of removing a stone lid
from a coffin. I make this observation because
it has been asserted, that since the apertures
in the lids are too small to have allowed of
the removal of a corpse, hence these empty
stone reservoirs did not contain any, when
they were originally closed.
I do not know how great the holes may have
been at the time when Mr. Hercules, of whom
Niebuhr makes mention,* visited the spot, or
* See Niebuhr's " Voyage en Arabie et en d'autres pays
circonvoisins," torn. ii. p. 128.
102 TRAVELS IN
whether they have been widened at a later
period, but I found one sufficiently large to
admit of the passage of a man. In fact I con
trived to enter the middle sarcophagus facing
the door, and stretch myself down at the bottom
of it. The sensation of lying in a strange
grave, and that, too, of one of the proud
monarchs of the East, whose dust was all that
had remained on earth after 2,000 years, can
be better imagined than described. I found
nothing in the tomb save some white crust from
the walls which crumbled at the touch. The
spot is peculiarly well adapted for serious
meditations, and the tomb at Nakshi-Rustam
might have furnished an eloquent chapter to
" Young's Night Thoughts on the Instability
of Human Grandeur." All the nine excava
tions in the third cave are uncovered, with
the stone coverlids broken and lying close
by. I wished to visit all the tombs in succes
sion, but my guide assured me it would be
a neck-breaking concern, and, therefore, not
very desirable to be attempted. He would,
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 103
however, try, he said, to take me up to one
of the remaining three. It was the third, if
we reckon from the north-west, or the second,
if taken from the south-eastern side of the
hill, namely, the tomb with the cuneatic in
scriptions, supposed to have contained the body
of Darius Hystaspes.
We proceeded to it accordingly, and our
guide gave us fresh proofs of his nimbleness
and fearlessness in climbing the flat and per
pendicular rocks. The same process of hauling
up was repeated, only I took the precaution,
before commencing my swing, of having another
man hoisted up in order to assist the kedkhuda
in holding the rope, lest I should slip from
his hands, while suspended in the air, in the
same manner as the unfortunate parents of King
Darius, who having, according to Ctesias, the
curiosity to visit the tomb prepared for their
royal son during his life time, were killed on
the spot.*
* The passage of Ctesias, given by Larcher, in his
French version of " Herodotus," runs thus : —
104 TRAVELS IN
I found the interior of the cave more spacious
than that of the one I had just left. Neither the
room nor any one of the niches is arched like
the one above mentioned, as the accompanying
sketch will show. Instead of there being only
one excavation in each recess, there are three in
every one of them, making nine stone excava
tions in this one cave. So striking a discre
pancy between the interiors of the only two
caves which have until now been examined at
Nakshi-Rustam, shows, that although the
external face of the rock presents the same
sculptures, the inner part may vary in all the
" Darius se fit faire un tombeau sur le mont a deux
cimes. Lorsqu'on l'eut acheve, il lui prit envie de le voir :
mais il en fut dissuade par les Chaldeens, et par son pere et
par sa mere. Quant a ceux-ci, ils voulurent contenter leur
curiosite. B leur en couta la vie. Les pretres qui les
guindaient au haut de la montagne, ayant appercu des
serpens en furent si effrayes, qu'ils lacherent les cordes.
Le Prince et la Princesse so tuerent en tombant. Cet
accident causa beaucoup de chagrin a Darius. B fit couper
la tete aux quarante personnes chargees de guinder au haut
de la montagne son pere et sa mere." (See " Histoire
d'Herodote," by Larcher, torn, vi., page 225.)
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 105
four ; and it becomes the more desirable that
the two remaining tombs should be explored, r
if possible, as the facts just adduced prove that
the analogy Sir Robert Kerr Porter wished
to establish between them can no longer stand
good.* The cavities are open, and contain
nothing more than the fragments of the cover
lids, parts of which lie on the surface of these
recesses. On the western extremity of the cave are
two high steps cut in the rocks, and on the
side, forming the continuation of the wall with
the three recesses, is a shallow niche close to
the ceiling. Between this niche and the steps
is a fissure in the rock from the ceiling to the
floor, where it presents a hollow aperture,
descending into the bowels of the mountain.
It is not artificial, and could never have served
the purpose of a communication from below.
* Sir R. K. Porter says : — " These four sepulchres differ
in no way exteriorly : hence we may suppose they vary as
little within, and the description of one may generally
describe them all." (See his " Travels," vol. i., page 516.)
106 TRAVELS IN
My guide, who was not backward in offering
his conjectures, maintained that this must have
been the corner for the priest appointed to read
prayers for the repose of the souls of the
deceased inmates. The steps served him for a
seat, whilst the lamp may have been placed
in the niche close by. But the question
naturally arises,, if the entrances of the tombs
were closed hermetically, as it appears they
were, how could any living being have been
left in these abodes of death] I must here
plead guilty to not having ascertained whether
any holes were visible to receive the pivots of
the blocks of stone, of which the door consisted,
similar to those Porter had observed in the
smaller tomb.
At this great height the wind was very
strong, and, as the space between the entry
and the flat perpendicular rock below is very
narrow, I was obliged to keep close to the
wall in going in and coming out, until I could
reach the small platform on the eastern side;
forming one of the horizontal wings of the cross.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 107
In the first tomb I had had some food for the
soul, here 1 required some for the body, and
took my luncheon, consisting of cold rice-pillau,
on the platform, while my obliging kedkhuda
pointed out to me the position of the different
buluks, or districts in the plain of Persepolis.
Below our feet was the buluk of Hafrek,
extending from east to west. To the south
extended the buluk of Merdasht; further on
to south-east that of Kurbal (Kulbar).
To the S.S.W. the buluk of Zarghan on the
way to Shiraz, with the bridge of Puli-Khan
in the same direction, near the junction of the
Polvar and the Kum-Firuz rivers.
The protruding hill of Nakshi-Rustam pre
vented us from seeing the remaining two dis
tricts ; namely, Ramjird to the west, and Moin
to the north-west.
The descent was more difficult than the
ascent had been. With my Persian servant we
were lowered down in the same manner as we
had been hoisted up, by means of a rope
twisted round our bodies, with the end com-
108 TRAVELS IN
mitted to the charge of the person who stood on
the upper platform ; but as no one could keep
the rope for the kedkhuda who remained there
the last, and there were no means of fastening
it at the top, he was obliged to come down by
himself, clinging in his descent to the vertical
rock, which offered very few rough places on
which he could lay hold with his hands or fix
his feet. It was a nervous spectacle to look
upon the man as it were hanging in the air, full
seventy feet from the ground, just touching the
edge of the rock with his tip-toes, and cautiously
examining and feeling every trifling projection
of the mountain, to ascertain if it would afford
any support to his weight. The muscles of his
bare arms and legs were completely contracted
from the exertion, and the least cramp would
have brought him headlong down. We stood
gazing from the lower platform, still at a con
siderable distance from the ground, in breathless
anxiety, offering prayers for his safe descent.
I reproached myself for having urged him to
this rash enterprize, and if a fatal accident had
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 109
befallen him it would have weighed heavily on
my conscience through life. I should never
have forgiven myself for having sacrificed a
human being to the mere gratification of a vain
curiosity after all. But God is ever watchful
and merciful to his creatures. At length we
had the satisfaction of seeing the daring climber
join us in safety amid the loud Mashallah, and
Burikallah [God be praised! and bravo!) of the
party, who had just before been ejaculating,
Yah Allah, Yah Ali (God help ! Ali help !).
Concerning the bas-reliefs of the Sasanian
epoch, I shall venture to make one observation
- only, as they have been already often described.
It is in respect to the plate No. xxm. in Sir
R. K. Porter's travels.
The subject of this bas-relief, observes the
author, is two men on horseback meeting each
other, the one bestowing, the other receiving
a circlet, the badge of sovereignty. (See vol. i.
p. 549.) On showing one day to an intelligent
Gebr acquaintance of mine from Yezd a draw
ing of an altar I had found sculptured on a
110 TRAVELS IN
rock in the mountains near Behbehan, at Tengi
Saulek (and of which I shall speak hereafter),
having a fillet tied round it in a knot with the
two ends hanging down, I learned that there
exist similar Parsi temples at Yezd to the pre
sent day. On this occasion my Parsi friend
favoured me with some particulars on the
subject. All Gebrs are obliged to wear a sort of
sash or cord round their waist, under their
clothes. It forms the distinctive sign of their
being the followers of Zoroaster, as the cross
is worn by the Roman Catholics and Greeks,
to show that they are the disciples of Christ.
Those Gebrs who renounce their religion to
embrace Muhammedanism, tear asunder the
sacred cord.
It is by this sign that Hafed makes himself
known as a Gebr to the affrighted Arab
maid, in Moore's poem of the Fire- worship
pers : —
" ' Hold ! hold ! — thy words are death ! '
The stranger cried, as wide he flung
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. Ill
His mantle back, and show'd beneath
The Gebr belt that round him hung."*
It is the Kosti,\ or cincture of the Zend-
Avesta, J terminated by two small tails at each
end denoting the four seasons; three knots on
each tail present in the aggregate the twelve
months of the year. The cord is twisted of
seventy-two threads, such being the number,
* " Lalla-Rookh," see page 191.
f Mr. Thomas Moore, in a note to the foregoing passage
of his poem, calls the Kosti, Cushee. He says, — " They
(the Gebrs) lay so much stress on their Sushee, or girdle,
as not to dare to be an instant without it." I mention
this circumstance, because the word Cushee, used by the
Parsi of India, § bears some resemblance to Cushak,
the Russian word for girdle, and which, by the way, is
of pure Mogol origin. This is, therefore, water to Dr.
Westergaard's milL who is occupied in establishing the
common origin of the Mogol and Sanscrit languages, as that
of the latter with the Zend is placed, I believe, beyond a
doubt. The success of his endeavours will settle the
question whether Thibet was the cradle of the human
race, after the Deluge.
1 See " Zenda-Avesta," 1. iii.
§ See Grose's " Voyage to the East Indies," vol. i., p. 223.
112 TRAVELS IN
according to Gebr interpretation, of the known
kingdoms of the world at the time of Husheng,
their first legislator. Herodotus assigns the
same number to the nations under the sway
of the Persian monarchs ; and it is a no less
curious circumstance, that the same number
of columns should once have supported the
throne of Jemschid at Persepolis ; and that
the religious book of the Parsi, called Yzeschne,
or Yacna, should likewise have been divided
into seventy-two chapters.
The Mobed, or High-Priest, bestows this
cord on every Gebr boy at the age of seven
years (fifteen years according to the Sadder).
The two priests, on approaching the fire-
altar, observe the following ceremonial: — The
arm of one priest must be linked with the
arm of the other by this cord, to show that
they act in harmony, else their prayers would
not be accepted.
To render an oath binding between two
contracting parties, the Gebrs form a circlet
of this cord or tape, which each holds, standing
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 113
opposite one to the other, and allowing the ends
of the kosti to flow downwards.
May we not explain by this custom, still in use
among the surviving followers of Zoroaster's creed,
the symbolic action of the figures which occur
on the bas-reliefs of Takhti-Rustam, Nakshi-
Rejeb, and Nakshi-Rustam, holding the circlet,
from which two bandelets are seen flowing
downwards 1 It is the ratification of a treaty
of peace between two independent sovereigns,
in conformity with the Gebr fashion of ren
dering an oath binding.
We find a very satisfactory account of the
Kosti in Silvestre de Sacy's " Memoire sur
diverses Antiquites de la Perse," p. 184, which
runs thus : —
" Le texte," says this author, " est tire de la
dixieme porte du chapitre du Sadder. L'auteur
qui recommande aux disciples de Zoroastre,
I'usage du Kosti. C'est une ceinture que tout
Parse, parvenu a lage de quinze ans, doit porter
et qu'il doit mettre sur lui chaque jour au
moment de son lever. Le Kosti met en fuite
VOL. I. I
114 TRAVELS IN
les demons ; il est le signe de l'union des fideles.
Toutes les bonnes ceuvres de celui qui n'en est
point ceint, deviennent nulles et sans aucun
merite aux yeux de la loi. Le Parse doit faire
quatre nceuds au Kosti ; par le premier il con-
fesse l'unite de Dieu, par le second il reconnait
la v6rite de la religion de Zoroastre ; la troisieme
est un temoignage qu'il rend a. la divinite de
sa mission, et a, sa qualite de prophete; enfin
par la quatrieme il atteste la ferme resolution
qu'il a prise de faire le bien, de vouloir le
bien, de penser le bien, et de s'eloigner du
mal. Les anges meme ont apparu au Roi
Menotchehr et a Zoroastre ceints du Kosti.
Apres ces details, l'auteur ajoute, — Si tu ne
connais pas Iran et Aniran, je vais t'apprendre
un signe auguel tu le reconnaitras. Aniran
n'a point ceint le Kosti, comme il convient de
le faire, mais Iran s'en est ceint, et l'a ote de
dessus son visage, comme les hommes de bien,
les saints, les hommes parfaits dans la religion ;
il a ceint le Kosti de la maniere que prescrit la
doctrine veritable."
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 115
From the above we may infer, that since
the external sign by which Iran was to be
recognised, consisted in its having removed the
kosti from the forehead, Aniran must, therefore,
have retained the custom of wearing it on the
head. In investigating the monuments of antiquity
we ought not to overlook this distinction, as it
is of some importance, for by the mode in
which the kosti was worn, we may judge
whether the figure we may happen to be ex
amining, is to be ranged among the followers
of Ormuzd, or whether it belongs to a nation
that was inimical to the creed of Zoroaster.
Acting up to this principle, we feel authorized
to say, that the figure of the man embossed
on a goblet (which forms one of the objects
lately discovered in a tumulus to the south
east of the Caspian Sea*), and wearing the
* A detailed account of this discovery was communi
cated by the author to the Society of Antiquaries of
London, and inserted in the " Archaaologia," volume xxx.
pp. 248—255. I 2
116 TRAVELS IN
kosti on the forehead, must belong to Aniran
and not to Iran.
It is uncertain whether the sling, which,
according to Q. Curtius,* adorned the head
of the Mardi, and served them likewise for
a weapon, was the kosti, or not. If we incline
to the affirmative, we may suppose that these
wild highlanders, living, as described by the
historian, in caves and inaccessible mountains,
had disdained to embrace the religious tenets
preached by Zerdusht, and therefore retained
the distinctive feature of Aniran, namely, the
kosti on their foreheads.
Notwithstanding my impatience to behold
the ruins of Persepolis, I postponed my visit,
until I had seen the other interesting places
in the neighbourhood, reserving the majestic
Takhti-Jemshid " pour la bonne bouche."
Among other excursions, I had in view to
perform a trip to the hill of Istakhr, which
reared its brow at a distance in a north-western
* See Q. Curtius's " History of Alexander," *,. v. c. vii.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 117
direction from Persepolis, in the hope that I
might contemplate from its summit the rays of
the rising sun, as they shot through the clus
tered pilasters and broken pillars of Takhti-
Jemshid. Independently of the splendid sight
I anticipated to behold, the height and situa
tion of the isolated rock of Istakhr were such,
that I fancied I should be on one of those
favoured spots to which the zealous followers
of Zoroaster resorted every morning, in order
to catch the first glimpses of the returning
luminary, on which they looked as the pure,
bright symbol of the Deity.
As I had a ride of two farsangs to make, I
left Husein-Abad at three o'clock in the morn
ing, while it was still perfectly dark, and took
the kedhuda of the place for my guide. Having
crossed the plain in a north-western direction, ,
we touched at the tents of some Amaleh Iliyats,
to warm our benumbed limbs, the night being
piercingly cold, before we resumed our journey.
With the exception of one or two tents, in
which the shepherds kept watch, the rest of
118 TRAVELS IN
the encampment was wrapt in sleep, but the
loud and incessant barking of the dogs on our
arrival soon roused the whole community.
Lights were kindled ; lengthened shadows were
seen moving to and fro; men, women, and
children, all equally curious, kept peeping
through the apertures of their tents; others came
out to ascertain the cause of all this noise,
and must have thought us half crazy to travel
at such a time of night, and disturb their
slumbers. It was some time before they could be made
to believe that I was seriously intent on ascend
ing the mountain, as they could not understand
for what earthly purpose it could be ; at length,
by coaxing and promises of remuneration, some
Iliyats consented to show us the way up the
hill. This wandering tribe belongs to a Lur stem,
and was transplanted into Fars by Aga-Mu-
hammed-Khan, the uncle of the late Fet'h-
Ali-Shah, from Luristan Kuchuk. After his
death, many returned to their primitive en-
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 119
campments in the Zagros chain, but some have
remained behind.
The ascent was steep and difficult, and after
having proceeded half way on horseback, the
path became so narrow and precipitous, that
we were obliged to dismount, leave our horses
behind, and proceed to climb up on foot.
Luckily the dawn of day overtook us, and
warned us to avoid many a chasm which
yawned beneath our feet. We were so long
toiling up the devious path, that the sun was
high in the heavens before we could attain
the summit of the hill, and my desire of seeing
it rise above the ruins of Persepolis was thus
thwarted. Nor could I well distinguish the
latter in the distance.
Notwithstanding the disappointment, I did
not regret the trip I had undertaken, as it
afforded me an opportunity of examining this
curious rock, and acquiring a correcter notion
of the country, than I could have obtained from
the plain below.
Istakhr can only be ascended by one path,
120 TRAVELS IN
like Kal'eh-Sefid, in the country of the Mama
seni, from the north-eastern side ; everywhere
else it is so steep, and in many places so nearly
vertical, that an involuntary shudder comes
over one, on looking down into the plain. A
stone wall, now partly overthrown, formerly
ran across the path, and defended the approach
to the summit. On arriving at the top, I
found a dilapidated tower, with heaps of broken
bricks, tiles, pottery, and glass strewed about,
as likewise a few ruined habitations, denoting
that this had in former times been the inhabited
part of the hill. Amongst the rubbish, and
nearly buried underground, I dug out a curi
ously-wrought vessel of black stone. It has an
oval form, tapering at one end, with an aperture
at the other, where it has suffered some injury.
The interior is hollow, while the external part
bears carved ornaments in relief, resembles in
shape a scooped-out cocoa-nut, and is quite as
large. It bears likewise some resemblance to
the large oval ornaments suspended on a chain,
and hanging down the sides of the horses in
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 121
the sculptured equestrian figures at Nakshi-
Rustam, the use of which it is difficult to
divine.* Further in the interior of the hill, where
a declivity exists towards the east, I found an
immense reservoir for water, divided into three
compartments ; the banks are lined with stone,
and the floor paved. The breadth is unequal,
but it measures 205 paces in length. The
melting snow of winter, and the rains at other
seasons of the year accumulate in this
and another reservoir on the south side ;
this was the only means the inhabitants had
of procuring water at so great an elevation,
the hill possessing no springs. It has, how
ever, several oak trees, if I recollect right,
and the crags and caves abound with wild
goats and rams.
* Sir "William Ouseley is of opinion these ornaments
may represent vessels containing incense. See his
" Travels." In Sir Robert Kerr Porter's Sketches, they are repre
sented as tassels, which appears the most natural. See
his " Travels," vol. i. p. 550.
122 TRAVELS IN
Close to the second reservoir I found the
following inscription cut in the rock —
The fort of Istakhr seems to have served
at times the purpose of a state-prison. We
find in Sir John Malcolm's History of Persia,
that " Zenghi, the son of Saad Attabeg, of
Fars, was sent prisoner to the hill-fort of
Istakhr, from which he was not released
till the return of Sultan-Jelal-a-din (Sultan
Mahmud of Khaurizm) from Scind to Irak."
(See chap. xi. p. 387, on the Atabegs of
Fars.) At a later period Uzzun Hasan confined in
the same fort of Istakhr, Sultan Ali Ibrahim
Mirza, and Sultan Shah Ismail, sons of Heyder
(Sefevi), where they remained four years. (Idem,
chap. xiv. p. 499.)
This isolated hill of Istakhr is the key of the
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 123
pass which opens into the plain of Persepolis
from the hilly country of Ardekan.*
* I took advantage of the elevated spot on which I stood
to mark a few bearings of the compass, relying on the words
of my guide, and on my own sight, to determine the relative
distances of the several places.
Bearings taken from the south side of Kuhi-Istakhr.
The bridge of Puli-Khan and direction of the river Kum-
Firuz, due south ; distance of the former, between three
and four farsangs. To the west of the Kum-Firuz extends
the district of Ramjird, bounded to the west by a moun
tainous country, forming the buluk of Baiza. To the east
of the same river is the district of Hafrek. Direction of the
hill at Nakshi-Rustam, E. by E.S.E., distant about two
farsangs. Bearings taken from the north-east side of the hill of
Istakhr.
The hill of Kuhi- Shahrek, N.W. by W.N.W., two farsangs
distant. The Kum-Firuz flows from the same direction.
It has its source in the snowy range of Ardekan, near a
place called Runje- GambU, and is the Araxes, or Cyrus of
the ancients, which Alexander had to cross before he reached
Persepolis. It is joined in the plain by the river Mom,
coming from the village of the same name in a N.N.W.
direction. The summer road from Isfahan to Shiraz passes
through Moin.
The extremity of the mountain ridge of Husein-Ktih, a
continuation of the Nakshi-Rustam hills, lies to the north-
124 TRAVELS IN
Not far from Kuhi-Istakhr, in a south-eastern
direction, is another hill which cannot be
ascended on account of its steepness ; it is
barren, and has a very grotesque appearance.
At the distance of two farsangs to the west,
inclining to north, is a third isolated hill, on the
summit of which some ruins are seen, said to
have been an ancient fort, but time would not
allow of my visiting the spot, much to my
regret, as hitherto no traveller appears to have
described it. It bears the name of Kuhi-Shahrek.
I was standing on classical ground. The
Kum-Firuz river, which laves the foot of the
rock, is the Araxes of the ancients ; the snowy
Ardekan mountains, from which it flows, are
the same with those whose crest presented so
west. The villages Germ-abdd (one farsang), and Kazim-
abad (one and a-half farsangs distant) are to E.N.E. by E.
The bridge of PuU-no over the Kum-Firuz is situated to
the south-east, at no great distance from Kuhi-Istakhr.
The bridge Alexander the Great had to throw over the
Araxes, before he could enter on the plain of Persepolis,
was probably somewhere in the same neighbourhood.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 125
formidable a barrier to Alexander's progress,
and by whose slopes he descended into Persia.
It was likewise, in all probability, on the plain
of Moin that he threw a bridge over the
Araxes, which he had to cross before he could
enter on the plain of Persepolis, and we may
ascribe, perhaps, to the same vicinity, the
pathetic scene which took place between him
and some Greek captives, who came out to
meet him on his approach to the city.
"At his (Alexander's) near approach to the
city," says his historian, " his eyes were shocked
with a spectacle which has few parallels in
history. It was a procession of Greek captives,
amounting almost to 4,000, whom the Persians
had deplorably mutilated. Some had their feet
cut off; others had been deprived of their
hands and ears; and all their bodies were
branded with barbarous characters. Thus they
had been reserved for the diversion of their
inhuman enemies, who, seeing themselves on
the eve of foreign subjection, did not oppose
their desire to go out and meet Alexander.
126 TRAVELS IN
They resembled uncouth images, distinguishable
only as men by their noise. They excited more
tears than they shed. In a calamity which
capriciously marked every individual, it might
be seen at once that they all shared ; but their
punishment had been so diversified, that it
was impossible to pronounce who was most
miserable. When they cried out that Jupiter,
the avenger of Greece, had at last awoke, all
the auditors sympathised in their sufferings as
their own. The King, having dried his tears,
said to them, ' Resume courage, you shall
again see your native land, and your wives.'
Then Alexander entrenched his camp two stadia
from the city."*
On our way back, my communicative and
well-informed kedkhuda entertained me with
some agricultural information, in respect to the
cultivation of the soil about Persepolis.
The extensive and rich plains, to which the
name of Merdasht is improperly given, is divided
into several buluks, of which Merdasht forms
* See Q. Curtius, book v., chap. v.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 127
only a part ; namely, the buluk nearest the ruins
of Persepolis, or Takhti-Jemshid. The space
between the rivers Polvar (the Murgab) and
Kum-Firuz, or, as the ancient geographers
would have termed it, between the Medus and
the Araxes, forms the buluk of Hafrek. We
have mentioned already that to the west of
Kum-Firuz, or on its right bank, lies the buluk
of Ramgird, while between its left banks in its
upper course, and the right banks of the Moin
river, is the buluk of Moin. From the ruins of
the city of Istakhr (lying between the sculptured
rocks at Nakshi-Rustam, and which must not
be confounded with the rock of Istakhr), com
mences the buluk of Merdasht, which extends
along the left banks of the Polvar river, until
its junction with the Kum-Firuz at Puli-
Khan. To the south, Merdasht is bounded by the
latter river, down to Bend-Amir, from whence
a line drawn towards the ruins of Takhti-
Jemshid, or the extremity of Kuh-Rahmd,
forms its eastern boundary. The buluk of
128 TRAVELS IN
Kurbal, or, as the peasants commonly pronounce
it, Kulbar, extends to the east of Merdasht,
lying between the Kuhi-Rahmed and the lower
course of the Kum-Firuz, which, after its junc
tion with the Polvar, assumes the name of
Bend-Amir. Finding that my loquacious friend was better
acquainted with the buluks of Hafrek and
Merdasht than with the other three, I directed
my questions more particularly to what con
cerned the former two.
The buluk of Hafrek has thirty villages, that
of Merdasht twenty. The annual grain sown
in both amounts to twelve thousand harvars, a
harvar being equal in weight to what an ass can
carry. Some fields are subjected to irrigation —
others left to be supplied by rains alone. The
production from fields watered by artificial
means is divided into three portions ; one-third
of which is paid to the Crown, the other to
the landowner, and the remaining third to the
tenant. From lands belonging to the State
called Shahi two thirds are abstracted from the
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 129
crops for the benefit of the Divan, and one-
third for the use of the tenant.
From fields called Deimi, where no irriga
tion is used, and the crop depends on the dry
or wet season, the Divan receives only one-fifth
of the harvest. The usual return of barley
and wheat is from ten to fifteen fold ; in fields
better watered and attended to, it rises from
twenty to twenty-five.
About the Novruz, in the beginning of spring
the villagers assemble, and proceed to clear the
canals by means of which the waters of the
Polvar river are drawn into their fields. They
next elect a Mirab (confirmed by the Divan —
water being Crown property) whose duty con
sists in distributing equitably the portion of
water required for every field, according to its
extent. From the beginning of spring up to
harvest time, the fields require to be watered
every week. The same process is necessary for
fields on which rice is sown, but those on which
rice is planted must be inundated. The latte>r
fields are more productive, and yield sixty and
VOL. I. K
130' TRAVELS IN
eighty-fold, while the return of the former is
only twenty-fold.
The plains of Merdasht and Hafrek consist
principally of a clayey soil, and are abundantly
supplied with water. The peasantry make use
here of three different sorts of wheat, and two
of barley, the black and the white. Corn
springs up better in a black vegetable soil,
while rice, peas, and beans prosper in the
clayey ground.
In the afternoon, having sent my baggage
and servant on before, to secure a lodging at
Kenore, the nearest village to the ruins of
Persepolis, I rode across the country with my
native guide to examine the sculptures of
Nakshi-Kejeb, in the mountains of Rahmed.
We forded the Polvar, and entered the buluk
Merdasht. Not far from the left bank of the
river is an elevated stone platform, which
must have been once the basis of a spacious
square building. The stones have been hewn
from the adjacent rock, which near Nakshi-
Kejeb presents a curious configuration. I have
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 131
generally observed the granite strata lying
parallel to each other, and inclined to the
earth at a certain angle. Here the rock presents
an undulating appearance, and the curve seems
to have been produced by some hidden power
from below, which has raised the strata from the
centre, allowing the sides to fall off in a slope.
Perhaps the following sketch, drawn from
memory, will best explain what I mean :
The different layers of the rock in being thus
forcibly raised have given way and split. This
circumstance must have considerably facilitated
the task of the workmen employed in the con
struction of Persepolis, as they could choose
the size of the blocks they required in the
natural quarries of the mountain without being
obliged to hew them out of the solid rock, and
k 2
132 TRAVELS IN
had only to give them the necessary shape and
polish. The sculptures of Nakshi-Kejeb are in a
recess of the rock, half way between Nakshi-
Rustam, and Takhti-Jemshid. They consist of
three bas-reliefs, one in front of the entry, the
two others to the right and left of it. They
are of the Sasanian epoch, and have been fre
quently described.
The indefatigable French artist, M. Eugene
Flandin, who lately visited this spot, has dis
covered a long inscription in Pehlevi characters,
which had been hid from sight by the branches
and foliage of a tree protruding out of a fissure
in the rock.
It was getting dusk when we turned our
steps towards the village of Kenore, and, in
passing the fields, I caught a glimpse of the
colonnade and the granite pilasters on the high
platform of Persepolis, at the foot of the Rahmed
hill to the east. I must own, however, that the
first impression they produced on me, although
a very agreeable one, was not what I had been
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 133
led to expect. I fancied I should have been
overwhelmed by the imposing grandeur of the
massive buildings. But then, I must admit, I
saw the ruins to their disadvantage at a certain
distance and in the dusk of the evening. The
next day, on a nearer inspection, I was fully
reconciled to the previous idea I had formed
of Persepolis, and gratified even beyond my
most sanguine expectations. The longer I
gazed on the ruins the more I found cause for
admiration.
CHAPTER VI.
Ruins of Takhti-Jemshid or Persepolis. — Progress of de
struction observable in the gradual fall of the pillars. —
Buildings on the different platforms. — Discovery of the
statue of a bull. — Accumulation of the soil on the plat
form. — -Subterraneous passages. — Remarks on the late
Mr. Beckford, the author of "Vathek." — Lord Byron's
opinion on that book. — Adventures of the Caliph Vathek in
the subterranean halls of Istakhr. — Subterraneous corri
dors at Persepolis, now occupied by porcupines. — The
royal tombs in Mount Rahmed. — Feruers, or guardian
angels of the old Gebrs. — Figure of the moon among the
bas-reliefs. — Conjectures on it. — Interior of the first and
second tomb. — General reflections on the monuments of
Persepolis.
The 9th January, as soon as I had finished my
early breakfast, we rode off to the ruins, distant
rather less than half a farsang from the village
of Kenore. The nearer we approached the more
majestic the relics rose before us, till we ar
rived at the foot of the staircase leading to the
platform on which Persepolis stands.
TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 135
An indescribable feeling of awe prompted me
to get off my horse in order to ascend the
steps on foot, but my guide stopped me with
the prosaic observation that I should have
sufficient walking, and that I had, therefore,
much better remain in my saddle, as the
stairs were amply broad and sloping enough
for horses to ascend with ease. This staircase
consists of a double flight of steps of black
marble, and so broad that eight or ten horse
men can advance abreast. The platform to
which the staircase leads is an oblong square,
measuring 1,200 feet from north to south, and
1,690 feet from east to west, according to
Chardin. It faces the plain of Merdasht, on
the west, and is flanked by the hill of Rahmed
on the east.
On reaching the platform we came to an
immense portal, formed of huge blocks of
granite or marble, with two gigantic figures
of bulls in front, and two sphinxes on the
opposite side, with two high columns between.
I remember when I visited for the first time
136 TRAVELS IN
the splendid gallery of paintings of the Imperial
Hermitage, in the Winter Palace of St. Peters-
burgh, my eyes rolled from wall to wall as I
moved mechanically on from one hall to the
other in silent rapture, at intervals only uttering
some short exclamation of surprise and admi
ration at the magnificent productions of the
great masters ; but when I had left the gallery
I could not recollect one single painting in
particular out of the whole collection I had
just been admiring. The impression Persepolis
produced on me was very similar to this. I
moved from one group of ruins to another like
one under the influence of wine ; my head
felt quite giddy. Not that each separate monu
ment was a master-piece by itself, it was the
tout ensemble which kept the mind and the
imagination in a continual state of excitement.
But these feelings, however delicious and grate
ful they might be to oneself, were yet so vague,
so undefined, so confused even, that it would be
impossible to bring them into any tangible form,
for words are inadequate to give them expression.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 137
I can only point out the elements which
served to give birth to those feelings. It was
the originality of the scene before me, so
totally different from everything one is daily
accustomed to meet; the chaste simplicity of
the monuments, beautifully harmonizing with
their gigantic proportions ; the Titanic rocks of
marble and granite, evidently piled up with
the presumptuous thought of struggling with
Time, as to who should have the mastery ; and
although nearly vanquished by the latter, the
lofty columns still rearing their proud heads
toward the skies. The mystery attached to
the origin and design of Persepolis ; the isolated
position it now occupies ; the awful silence that
breathes around it ; the generations of men and
empires which have rolled over its head, and
sunk into oblivion ; the events it has witnessed ;
the vicissitudes undergone ; the noise and bustle
of which once it must have been the centre,
compared with the unearthly quiet which at
present pervades its clustered pillars and pilas
ters, were all fit subjects for meditation, and
138 TRAVELS IN
capable of raising the soul above its ordinary
level of indifference and apathy. Nor could
the eye, while gazing on these memorials of
past grandeur, help casting a look upward to
the Throne of Omnipotence, where all was
immutable and eternal. The pure, bright sky
of the East, which had smiled upon the birth
of Persepolis, and witnessed its pristine glory,
was the same which now looked down on its
fallen grandeur, — still pure, bright, and serene
as the Spirit which dwells there !
But if it be difficult to give an adequate idea
of the varied impressions these ruins give rise
to, it will be not less impracticable to enter into
a minute description of all the details; for, to
do justice to Persepolis, it would require weeks,
nay months, perhaps years, of diligent study
and close examination ; added to which, an
ample store of previous information, relating
to the history, religion, customs and manners,
arts and sciences, of the ancients, would be
necessary before one could venture to pass a
judgment on the precious antiquities before us.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 139
My superficial knowledge of these matters, and
the few days I could bestow on Persepolis, are
sufficient drawbacks to deter me from entering
the lists ; and if, in giving a summary sketch
of the leading features of this splendid piece of
antiquity as we advance, I venture to offer some
observations, it is with the greatest diffidence
that I do so.
Another flight of stairs, the walls of which
are full of bas-reliefs, leads to the second plat
form, on which the principal edifices of Perse
polis once rose. Here only thirteen columns
are found standing erect out of the seventy-two
of which the splendid temple was originally
composed. It would be, perhaps, curious to
trace the progress of the work of destruction as
it gradually has proceeded in the Palace of Jem-
shid. Pietro de la Valle found, in 1621, twenty-
five columns standing. When Mandelso visited
these ruins in 1638, there were only nineteen ;
in the days of Kcempfer (1696) and Niebuhr
(1765), the number was reduced to seventeen ;
and, in 1811, Sir W. Ouseley met only with
140
TRAVELS IN
fifteen columns, excluding the two on the lower
platform. The pedestals of a great number are
remaining, while the lines of the colonnade
evidently show where the rest had been. These
columns are fluted, and surmounted by capitals
of various styles of architecture.
One of these capitals, nearly detached from
the pillar, probably by an earthquake, and
menacing every instant to fall down, represents
the head, chest, and bent legs of a bull, which
figure is united at the back to a corresponding
bust of a similar animal. This appears to have
been the favourite ornament of the Persepolitan
order, for we find it reproduced on the bas-
reliefs of the Royal tombs of Takhti-Jemshid
and Nakshi-Rustam, as well as among the ruins
of the town of Istakhr in the plain.
Proceeding still in a southern direction, I
passed an elevated mound of earth, which Sir
R. Kerr Porter supposes may represent that part
of the edifice which was burnt by the Mace
donian madman,* and to which the great Zend
* " Porter's Travels," &c, vol. i., page 646.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 141
scholar, Lassen, assigns the name of the banquet-
hall, or hall of reception. *
In a southern and eastern direction are nume
rous pilasters, formed into different compart
ments, with fluted architraves. The walls are
covered with Cuneatic inscriptions and bas-
reliefs, representing human figures, animals,
&c, the number of which, according to some
travellers, exceeds thirteen hundred.
A thick crust of earth, which has been
accumulating for ages, now covers the platforms
of Takhti-Jemshid, and hides probably many
an interesting relic of antiquity. In confirma
tion of this opinion, I may state, that recently
two French artists, MM. Flandin and Coste,
have brought to light a black marble statue
of a bull, which, although mutilated, is still a
beautiful specimen of ancient Persian sculpture
in that style, and, I believe, the first instance of
a similar statue discovered in Persia, with the
exception of that of Shapur, in the mountains of
* " Allgemeine Encyclopedie," vol. xvii., page 356,
art. Persepolis.
142 TRAVELS IN
Kazerun. The workmanship of the latter
statue cannot be compared, however, to the
finished style of the bull at Persepolis. It
certainly would be a Herculean task to clear
away the accumulated soil heaped on the
mansions of Jemshid, but the enterprise is not
beyond the reach of possibility; and Persepolis
disencumbered of the dust of more than two
thousand years, would, in its revived state, offer
a no less gratifying sight for the antiquary
than the Roman cities of Herculaneum and
Pompeii. In the surface of the platform are
apertures leading down into subterraneous pas
sages. At the mere mention of the sub
terranean passages of Takhti-Jemshid every
imagination is involuntarily carried away to the
scenes in Vathek ; and who has not read
" Vathek1?" Yes, independently of the attrac
tion, which the antiquity, and plastic beauty of
Persepolis afford to the poet and the lover of
antiquarian research. Istakhr (which is another
name for Persepolis) has gained a peculiar
charm in the eyes of the general reader from
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 143
the mysterious halo which has been thrown
around it since the appearance of the fantastic,
yet fascinating little work, entitled " The History
of the Caliph Vathek," a book which, I under
stand, has obtained in this country a deserved
popularity. It was Istakhr that could alone
satisfy the unbounded curiosity, and slake the
thirst for novelty, of the Commander of the
Faithful. In the subterranean mansions of
Istakhr was placed the region of wonders ; there
he was to receive the diadem of Gian-ben-Gian,
the talisman of Soliman, and the treasures of
the pre-Adamite sultans.
The author of this witty tale has the happy
talent of imparting to his reader nearly the
same degree of panting curiosity which impels
his hero and heroine on to destruction; as he
leads Vathek from the banks of the Tigris to
those of Bend-Amir, until he is ushered into
the presence of Eblis, and meets, in company
with his mistress, with his final doom.
" Vathek," says Lord Byron, " was one of
the tales I had a very early admiration of —
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for correctness of costume, beauty of descrip
tion, and power of imagination, it far surpasses
all European imitations, and bears such marks
of originality, that those who have visited the
East will find some difficulty in believing it
to be more than a translation. As an eastern
tale, even Rasselas must bow before it; his
' Happy Valley ' will not bear a comparison
with the Hall of Eblis."
After such an encomium coming from such
a quarter, we may, without hesitation, intro
duce here some lengthy extracts from the
account of Vathek's arrival with his young
bride, and his visit to the subterranean halls
of Istakhr.
" A death-like stillness reigned over the
mountain and through the air. The moon
dilated, on a vast platform, the shades of the
lofty columns, which reached from the terrace
almost to the clouds. The gloomy watch-
towers, whose number could not be counted,
were veiled by no roof; and their capitals,
of an architecture unknown in the records
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 145
of the earth, served as an asylum for the
birds of darkness, which, alarmed at the
approach of such visitants, fled away croak
ing. " The chief of the eunuchs, trembling with
fear, besought Vathek that a fire might be
kindled. ' No,' replied he, ' there is no time
left to think of such trifles : abide where
thou art, and expect my commands.' Hav
ing thus spoken, he presented his hand to
Nouronihar, and ascending the steps of a vast
staircase, reached the terrace which was flagged
with squares of marble, and resembled a
smooth expanse of water, upon whose surface
not a leaf ever dared to vegetate. On the
right rose the watch-towers, ranged before
the ruins of an immense palace, whose walls
were embossed with various figures. In front,
stood forth the colossal forms of four creatures,
composed of the leopard and the griffin, and
though but of stone, inspiring emotions of
terror. Near these were distinguished by
the splendour of the moon, which streamed
VOL. I. l
146 TRAVELS IN
full on the place, characters like those on the
sabres of the Giaour, that possessed the same
virtue of changing every moment. These,
after vacillating for some time, at last fixed
in Arabic letters, and prescribed to the Caliph
the following words : —
" ' Vathek ! thou hast violated the conditions
of my parchment, and deservest to be sent
back; but in favour to thy companion, and
as the meed for what thou hast done to
obtain it, Eblis permitteth that the portal of
his palace shall be opened, and the subter
ranean fire will receive thee into the number
of its adorers.'
" He scarcely had read these words, before
the mountain, against which the terrace was
reared, trembled; and the watch-towers were
ready to topple headlong upon them. The rock
yawned, and disclosed within it a stair-case of
polished marble, that seemed to approach the
abyss. Upon each stair were planted two large
torches, like those Nouronihar had seen in her
vision ; the camphorated vapour ascending from
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 147
which, gathered into a cloud under the hollow
of the vault.
" This appearance, instead of terrifying, gave
new courage to the daughter of Fakreddin.
Scarcely deigning to bid adieu to the moon,
and the firmament, she abandoned, without
hesitation, the pure atmosphere, to plunge into
these infernal exhalations. The gait of those
impious personages was haughty and deter
mined," &c.
After describing the hall into which this
precious pair were ushered, the author goes
on: —
" In the midst of this immense hall, a vast
multitude was incessantly passing, who severally
kept their right hands on their hearts, without
once regarding any thing around them. They
had all the livid paleness of death. Their
eyes, deep sunk in their sockets, resembled
those phosphorical meteors, that glimmer by
night in places of interment. Some stalked
slowly on, absorbed in profound reverie ; some,
shrieking with agony, ran furiously about, like
l 2
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tigers wounded with poisoned arrows; whilst
others, grinding their teeth in rage, foamed
along, more frantic than the wildest maniac.
They all avoided each other; and, though
surrounded by a multitude that no one could
number, each wandered at random, unheeded
of the rest, as if alone on a desert, which no
foot had trodden."
The descriptions are all so splendid, that,
having once begun, we do not know when to
stop, or what passage to leave out ; but, if
possible, the picture of Ebbs himself surpasses
all the rest.
" After some time, Vathek and Nouronihar
perceived a gleam, brightening through the
drapery, and entered a vast tabernacle, carpetted
with the skins of leopards. An infinity of
elders, with streaming beards, and afrits, in
complete armour, had prostrated themselves
before the ascent of a lofty eminence, on the
top of which, upon a globe of fire, sat the
formidable Eblis. His person was that of a
young man, whose noble and regular features
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 149
seemed to have been tarnished by malignant
vapours. In his large eyes appeared both pride
and despair ; his flowing hair retained some
resemblance to that of an angel of light. In
his hand, which thunder had blasted, he swayed
the iron sceptre that causes the monster Oura-
nabad, the afrits, and all the powers of the
abyss, to tremble. At his presence the heart
of the Caliph sunk within him, and, for the
first time, he fell prostrate on his face. Nou
ronihar, however, though greatly dismayed,
could not help admiring the person of Eblis,
for she expected to have seen some stupendous
giant. Eblis, with a voice more mild than
might have been imagined, but such as trans
fused through the soul the deepest melancholy,
said : ' Creatures of Clay, I receive you into
mine empire; ye are numbered amongst my
adorers ; the treasures of the pre- Adamite sul
tans, their bickering sabres, and those talismans
that compel the Dios to open the subterranean
expanses of the mountain of Kaf which com
municate with these, — there, insatiable as your
150 TRAVELS IN
curiosity may be, shall you find sufficient to
gratify it. You shall possess the exclusive
privilege of entering the fortress of Aherman,
and the halls of Argenk, where are portrayed
all creatures endowed with intelligence, and
the various animals that inhabited the earth,
prior to the creation of that contemptible being
whom ye denominate the Father of Man
kind.' "
The new comers are allowed to roam for a
time through the subterranean mansions; they
visit the cells of the pre- Adamite sultans, and
converse with King Solomon. The peculiarity
of the multitude which flits before their eyes,
with the right hand constantly pressed on the
heart, is a fit illustration of " the -worm that
never dies." At length their doom is fixed,
and as it was pronounced — u Their hearts
immediately took fire; and they at once, lost
the most precious of the gifts of heaven : Hope.
These unhappy beings recoiled, with looks of
the most furious distraction. Vathek beheld,
in the eyes of Nouronihar, nothing but rage
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 151
and vengeance ; nor could she discern in his,
but aversion and despair.*
" Such was, and such should be, the punish
ment of unrestrained passions, and atrocious
actions ! Such is, and such should be, the
chastisement of blind ambition, that would
transgress those bounds which the Creator
hath prescribed to human knowledge ; and,
by aiming at discoveries reserved for pure
Intelligence, acquire that infatuated pride,
which perceives not that the condition ap
pointed to man is, to be ignorant and humble."
But to return to the vaults of Persepolis.
Having procured lights, my guide took me
down into dark corridors, which are so low
in some parts, that not only was I obliged to
advance in a bending posture, but even to
crawl. In one direction I proceeded as far
as eighty-five paces, in another seventy. These
corridors are cut in the rock, and are covered
by huge granite blocks, which cfrcumstance
makes me suppose that they were hewn pre-
* See Note at end of the chapter.
152 TRAVELS IN
vious to the construction of the massive buildings
on the platform. These subterranean walks in
tersect each other at right angles, and branch off
in various directions. Some even, I was told,
communicate with the tombs in the mountain.
This may explain the non-existence of a door
into the royal tombs of Rahmed from the external
face of the rock; but how are we to account
for the absence of a similar entry into the
caves at Nakshi-Rustam] Water appears like
wise to have been conducted by means of these
subterranean canals. In summer, the vaults
of Persepolis form the residence of herds of
porcupines, which breed there in vast num
bers, the ground being strewed with the dry
manure and bristles of this animal.* This is
all I saw in the lower regions of Takhti-
Jemshid, and although it fell short of what
Vathek and his fair companion had witnessed
many centuries before me, of the infernal
grandeur of the court of Eblis, I took warning
* See chapter xii. on the migrations of the Persepolitan
porcupines.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 153
from their example, not to push my inquisitive
investigations any further, but hastened to
exchange the dark abode for the pure light
of heaven, and quit the loathsome atmosphere
of the cells below, to inhale the fresh air of
the plain of Merdasht.
The three royal tombs of Kuhi-Rahmed (the
Kior-Ahmed of Dupre), resemble those at
Nakshi-Rustam. The tomb opposite the co
lonnade, and of which Diodorus* makes mention,
is the most perfect of the whole.
In the upper part of the front bas-relief,
at the top of the sarcophagus, which is sup
ported by two rows of human figures, fourteen
in each row, stands the mobed or high priest
(supposed to be Ormuzd, or the figure of the
departed king), holding a bow in the left
hand, while the right is extended forward.
Before him is the Atesh-Kadeh, or fire-altar,
and above a winged figure, the feruer, or spirit
of the departed king ; because according to the
* Diodorus Siculus, liv. xvii. part 2, sec. lxxi., in
Miot's French translation.
154 TRAVELS IN
Zoroastrian creed, every created being in the
universe had his guardian angel* Even every
inanimate thing had its prototype in heaven.
This belief among the most ancient Zend
nations, may have given rise to the mythology
of the Greeks and Romans, who peopled every
corner of the globe with their protecting gods
and goddesses. High upon the right is the
ball of the sun, the brightest and purest em
blem of the Deity in the Gebr cosmogony. It
is shorn of its rays, and has in its lower part
the curve of the moon. I mention this latter
circumstance, because M. Lassen seems to doubt
the fact of the figure of the moon appearing on
any of the sculptures at Persepolis. f
I found another emblem of the moon in one
* We read, in the Gospel according to St. Matthew,
chap, xviii. 10, — " Take heed that ye despise not one of
these little ones ; for I say unto you, that in heaven their
angels do always behold the face of my Father which is in
heaven." f See Lassen's profound and highly-entertaining article
on Persepolis and the Persians, in the Allgemeine Ency
clopedic &c, vol. xvii., p. 365.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 155
of its quarters, on the side wall to the left of
the sarcophagus, on which several figures are
represented with long spears. The moon is
above the head of the figure, in the middle com
partment. As the waters of springs and brooks were
particularly sacred to Amshashpand Khordad,
(one of the three forms of the " refulgent lamp
of night,'' Khordad, Sapondomad, and Moh,*)
the representation of the moon on this rock
may have proceeded from the circumstance that
there is a spring of water in Mount Rahmed,
which passes through this royal tomb.
The upper cornice, which separates the sar
cophagus from the lower part of the sculptured
wall, is ornamented with eighteen figures of
lions, with tails curled up like dogs. There
are nine in one direction and as many in the
other, meeting in the middle. The lower cor
nice is supported by four bas-relief columns, two
on each side of the door. The architrave is
elegantly fluted, and the frame of the door
* See the Zend-Aresta, b. 2., p. 141, in Kleuker.
156 TRAVELS IN
entirely adorned with delicately-sculptured roses.
The capitals of the columns are the same
double figures of bulls we have described before,
and which are represented supporting on their
joint crests the upper bas-reliefs, with the
sarcophagus. I found great difficulty in penetrating into
the interior of the cave, on account of the
accumulated sand which choked the entrance.
On digging close to the aperture a quantity of
water rushed forth ; and it was not until it had
time to run out that I could crawl into the
recess of the mountain. I found in an arched
niche only one excavation in the rock similar to
that at Nakshi-Rustam. Judging, however, by
the depth of the niche, there may have been
two excavated tombs ; but it was impossible to
ascertain the fact on account of the accumulated
sand in the cave. The water seems to have
penetrated into it through some fissure in the
rock above, and must pass through some bed
of sand, as it has brought down a quantity
with it.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 157
The second cave to the south has three
vaulted niches, each containing a tomb. It
now serves as a granary for cut straw piled in
the embrasures, while the lower part is covered
with water and wet sand. The natives call
the first cave the meschid, or mosque, and the
second the hammam, or bath.
At some distance to the south in the same
mountain is the third tomb, similar to the
former two, but in its lower part it has been
left incomplete.
Much interesting matter has already been
written on Persepolis ; many ingenious conjec
tures* have been made as to the probable date
and object of its foundation, and still the
subject is far from being exhausted.
The questions connected with it still remain
* We do not mean to class among the ingenious con
jectures the surmises of Samuel Simon Wette, that Perse
polis and the Pyramids owe their origin to some volcanic
eruption, although we certainly must range them among
the strange conceptions of the human brain, probably pro
duced by what the erudite Wette would call a " mental
volcanic eruption.''
158 TRAVELS IN
unsolved, and some time will probably elapse
before they can be satisfactorily cleared up, if
they are ever destined to be so at all. How
ever, if anything is more likely than another to
promote the success of these researches, it is
the study of the Zend texts, which has resulted
already in the unravelling of many of the sym
bolic representations on the monuments of Per
sepolis ; whilst the progress the learned men of
Europe are making in the deciphering of the
arrow-headed characters, of which the Perse-
politan walls present such a splendid library,
will, it is to be hoped, lead, although by a
different course, to the same result, and assist
in offering to the world the solution of this great
enigma of past ages.
NOTE TO CHAPTER VI.
Page 151. — The Kholaussat-ul-Akbar gives a somewhat
different account of Vathek's death ; but though it does not
partake of the supernatural character of romance, the circum
stance which put a period to his life is not less strange. It
states, that " Labouring under the effects of a dropsical
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 159
intemperance, it was prescribed to Ul-Wauthek by his
physicians, towards the concluding period of life, that he
should seat himself in a hot stove, or oven, as soon after
the embers should have been withdrawn as it should be
endurable. The experiment is said to have been attended
with singular success ; but finding such unlooked-for and
unexpected relief, the monarch was not to be satisfied
without a further application to the remedy, with a more
violent degree of heat. In this he was obeyed, and per
ceiving, when too late, that it was beyond his endurance,
he beckoned to be taken out of the stove, and expired on
the same day, in the latter part of Zelhudje, or the year 232
(a. d. 846), at the premature age of thirty-six, and after
exercising, according to the expression of the original, a
power repugnant to the orthodox principles of Islam for the
period of five years seven months and some days." (See
Price's " Chronological Retrospect ; or, Memoirs of the
Principal Events of Mohammedan History," &c, vol. ii.,
page 150.)
CHAPTER VII.
Visit to the Cave of Shah-Sharmu with Pehlevi inscrip
tions. — Mussulman grave in a recess of the mountains. —
Seat of the town of Istakhr. — Birth-place of the impostor
Mozdac. — Discovery of old coins. — Extract from Pro
fessor Heeren. — Band- Amir. — Thomas Moore. — Road to
Shiraz. — Stop at the Nabob's house. — State of Shiraz
and the province of Fars. — Rival parties.' — Short sketch
of the history of Madame de La Marriniere.
Having ascertained the existence of a curious
cavern, at no great distance, with some re
markable inscriptions, I desisted for some hours
from the pleasure of admiring the beautiful
remains of Persepolis, and took my Persian
kedkhuda to guide me thither. This cave
is behind Nakshi-Rustam in the hills of Kuhi-
Husein. To lose as little time as possible, we started
two hours before sun-rise, and arriving at the
entrance of the defile, left our horses and
proceeded on foot up a narrow cleft in the
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 161
mountain by a very steep and stony ascent. At
a considerable height we found in the recess
of the hill a lonely grotto, from whence flowed
a spring of crystal water. In the inside, near
the entrance, stood a tomb formed of white
marble slabs, which had partly given, way,
and were covered with Arabic inscriptions,
denoting that it was the last abode of a follower
of Islam. A single willow-tree sprung at the
foot of this lonely monument, while the massive
and naked rocks, which rose perpendicularly
above the head, shut out the glaring light of the
sun, and threw their lengthened shadows down
the craggy path by which we had ascended.
The imposing grandeur of the scene, the un
earthly calm which breathed around us, in
voluntarily inspired feelings of devotion, and I
almost envied the lot of the silent tenant of the
grave. The sight of a tomb usually raises serious
ideas even in an ordinary cemetery close to the
habitations and the buzz of the living ; but
that pensive disposition of the mind is en
hanced, when we meditate over a grave-stone
VOL. I. M
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in some secluded shade, far from the busy
throng and haunts of men. There the mind
feels less distracted by external objects, and
the heart enters more freely into communion
with its God.
On retracing our steps half way down the
bill, we turned to the left, and entered a
spacious cavern, the depth of which, on account
of the obscurity of the place, it was impossible
to fathom. In another part of the same
grotto, were several niches in the wall ; in
two of them I found long inscriptions in the
Pehlevi character; the one, however, differing
somewhat from the other. I was not aware
at the time of their having been already copied
by Sir R. Kerr Porter, and congratulated my
self on the discovery. I even payed an extra
ducat to the kedkhuda for conducting me to
the place. I immediately set about taking a
copy of these inscriptions, but, as I had never
before made any attempt of that nature, it
was full two hours before- I could complete
the task. The first inscription has sixteen
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 163
lines, the second only fourteen. The caves
bear the name of Shasharmu, and lie N.N.W.
of the village of Hajiabad and W. by W.N.W.
from that of Poru. I afterwards learned, from
a well-informed Persian scholar, that this place
is supposed to have been sacred to Zoroaster.
The nature of the mountain seems to be
the same as at Nakshi-Rustam, being formed
of white marble, with grey and yellowish
streaks. On our way back, we visited the remains
of the town of Istakhr, the fluted columns
of which, with ornamental capitals in the Per-
sepolitan style, as well as the massive blocks
of a gate-way, have been repeatedly described
by travellers, which dispenses me from making
any further comments, save that it is my
impression that these remains are coeval with
the ancient structures at Takhti-Jemshid, and
probably formed part of the city to which the
Greeks gave the name of Persepolis.
A thick layer of earth has covered the greater
part of the ruins, but deep excavations, similar
m 2
164 TRAVELS IN
to those at Rhey, near Teheran, continue to be
made by the neighbouring villagers for the
purpose of procuring bricks for the construction
of baths and houses.
We learn from Greek historians, that Istakhr,
or Persepolis, was always a favoured spot among
the Persians. It was the cradle of the Ache-
menid race, who were exempted from paying
the ordinary tribute to which the rest of the
nation was subjected;* while each female of
Persepolis, since the reign of Cyrus, possessed
the privilege of claiming as her due a golden
coin from the Sovereign whenever he returned
to his capital after an absence of some dura
tion, -f
This ancient city, whose name is associated
in native romance with the glory of Jemshid
during the heroic ages of the world, previous
to the dawn of history, and which had presided
over the birth of the mighty empire of the King
of kings, was doomed, by a sad reverse of
* Herodotus vi. 97.
f Plutarch de mulier. virtutib., lib. viii., et Alex.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 165
fortune, to witness likewise the last struggle
for its independence before it sunk beneath the
overwhelming power of Islam. For it was in
the neighbourhood of Istakhr that Yezdijird,
on his return from Khorasan, placed himself,
for the last time, at the head of his subjects,
and was defeated by Abdullah, the son of Omar,
in the year 650 of J. C*
Among the celebrities of Istakhr, we may
mention the famous impostor Mazdac, who
propagated the absurd doctrine of the com
munity of women, which in our days has
been renewed by the Saint Simonians. Mazdac
was a native of that town, and flourished in
the reign of the Sasanian monarch Kobad,
in the sixth century of the Christian era.
During my stay at Kenore, I made diligent
inquiries whether any ancient coins were ever
found in the ruins of Persepolis or in the
neighbourhood, and ascertained that a shepherd
tending his flocks among the mountains, had
* See Rouzul-ul-Suffa, and Habeib-Usseyr, in Price's
" Retrospect of Mahomedan History," &c, vol. i., page 1 59.
166 TRAVELS IN
lately discovered in a recess of Kuh-Rahmed,
a considerable number of brass coins. I
naturally felt very anxious to get them, but
as the proprietor lived at a distance, some
time elapsed before I could obtain a sight
of them. I soon became aware that the
master of the house where I lodged, having
observed that I betrayed some eagerness to
possess those coins, took immediate advantage,
by extorting money for the hire of Cosids or
/bo^-messengers, whom he made me believe
he sent in different directions in search of
the shepherd. The latter at length came
with his treasure, and I purchased of him
the whole lot, consisting of nearly 200 brass
coins. Most of them are of the Teymurid
dynasty, with Arabic inscriptions of the
fourteenth century. As far as my limited
knowledge in Numismatics goes, I believe
coins of this dynasty are reckoned very scarce
in cabinets of medals.
On the 11th of January I left Kenore,
regretting exceedingly that I was obliged to
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 167
part so soon with Persepolis. Casting a long
lingering look in the direction of the clustered
columns, I bade them an affectionate farewell.
Persepolis was only a new acquaintance, and
yet I felt as if I were separating from an old
friend whose intrinsic worth had gained my
esteem and commanded my respect.
There is so much grandeur and simplicity
about these ruins, such a tranquil greatness in
them ; there is so much soul in these silent, yet
eloquent memorials of the past, that I can
only draw my comparisons from living — human
beings : it is the placid, dignified calmness of a
virtuous woman, combined with the majestic
look of a man, with the furrows of age and
adversity on his brow, yet firmly resigned to the
will of God.
But before we take a final leave of Persepolis,
let us attend to what has fallen from the eloquent
pen of the great German writer, Heeren, on the
subject. " Not only," says Heeren, " is Persia Proper
memorable on account of its historical asso-
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ciations, but also for the architectural remains
which it continues to present. The ruins of
Persepolis are the noblest monuments of the
most flourishing era of this empire which have
survived the lapse of ages. As solitary in their
situation as pecuHar in their character, they rise
above the deluge of years which for centuries has
overwhelmed all the records of human grandeur
around them or near them, and buried all traces
of Susa and of Babylon. Their venerable
antiquity and majestic proportions, do not more
command our reverence than the mystery which
involves their construction awakens the curiosity
of the most unobservant spectator. Pillars
which belong to no known order of archi
tecture ; inscriptions in an alphabet which con
tinues an enigma ; fabulous animals, which
stand as guards at the entrance ; the multi
plicity of allegorical figures which decorate the
walls, all conspire to carry us back to ages of
the most remote antiquity, over which the
traditions of the East shed a doubtful and
wandering light. Even the question what Per-
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 169
sepolis really was, is not so perfectly ascertained
as to satisfy the critical historian. An answer to
this question may, however, be fairly expected,
when we consider the ample materials which
the traveller and the artist have already con
tributed."* I did not take the direct course to Shiraz,
over Puli-Khan, but chose the road over Bend-
Amir, a name rendered classical by the Irish
bard, in one of the happy effusions of his
poetical muse : —
" There's a bower of roses by Bendemeer's stream,
And the nightingale sings round it all the day long :
In the time of my childhood 'twas like a sweet dream,
To sit in the roses and hear the bird's song.
That bower and its music I never forget,
But oft when alone, in the bloom of the year,
I think — Is the nightingale singing there yet ?
Are the roses still bright by the calm Bendemeer ?
" No ! the roses soon wither'd that hung o'er the wave ;
But some blossoms were gather'd, while freshly they
shone,
* See Heeren's " Historical Researches into the Politics,
Intercourse, and Trade of the Principal Nations of An
tiquity," vol. i., chap, i., page 141, of the English version.
170
TRAVELS IN
And a dew was distilled from their flowers, that gave
All the fragrance of summer, when summer was gone.
Thus memory draws from delight, ere it dies,
An essence that breathes of it many a year ;
Thus bright to my soul, as 'twas then to my eyes,
Is that bower on the banks of the calm Bendemeer."*
No more did I find the roses hanging o'er
the wave, nor did the season admit of the
song of the nightingale ; and although in spring
Bend-Amir, I have no doubt, must be a
delightful spot, when embosomed in the
transparent foliage of its gardens, with its
picturesque cascades, and the fantastically-
shaped rocks, which overhang the village ; still
it would require a powerful imagmation to find
it half so lovely as it appears in the bewitching
strains of the poet. The pleasing impression
Bend-Amir produced on me, was owing chiefly
to the agreeable recollections it brought with
it, of the time when I first read " Lalla-
Rookh," and all those endearing associations of
* Thomas Moore's Veiled Prophet of Korassin, p. 63,
in the Poem of " Lalla-Rookh."
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 171
the heart, so closely linked with youth — poetry
and hope. I felt all the force and the truth
of what Moore has so beautifully expressed, —
" Thus memory draws from delight, ere it dies,
An essence that breathes of it many a yeaf," &c.
From Kenore, which we left at a-quarter
past six a.m., in a S.S.W. direction, we reached
Bend- Amir at half-past eight a.m., after passing
the village of Reshmoji, half-an-hour's ride from
last night's halting-place, and from which the
bridge of Puli-Khan lies W. by W.S.W.
Bend-Amir consists of sixty houses, with
twenty-one water-mills, erected on the river of
the same name. Here is the famous dyke
which was constructed in the tenth century
by Amir Uzun-Deylemi, from whom the river
Kum Feruz, after its junction with the Murgab
(the Polvar and Medus of the ancients), has
derived its name, Bend-Amir signifying the
Dyke of the Chief. A flat bridge of thirteen
arches is thrown over the stream, the waters of
which form a beautiful cascade just under it.
172 TRAVELS IN
As the bed of the river is very deep, seven
other dykes have been constructed in its lower
course to procure water for the irrigation of the
fields. Of these dykes, that of Bendi-Talekan,
four farsangs lower down the stream, has a
bridge similar to the one at Bend-Amir. At
present the fields around this village are left
uncultivated, because the dyke is out of repair,
and the water does not rise high enough to the
surface of the ground ; hence the inhabitants
have turned their attention to other pursuits,
and have become millers, grinding flour for all
the adjacent villages.
We left the place at a quarter to ten, the
road leading due west, with a chain of steep
and fantastically-shaped mountains to the left,
and the buluk of Merdasht, from which we
were separated by the river Bend- Amir, to the
right. After an hour's ride the road makes a
turn to W.S.W. From this point Puli-Khan is
to N. by N.N.E. ; the mountains of Nakshi-
Rustam N.N.E. ; while the plain in front con
tinues to extend in a western direction. It was
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 173
here that the immense studs of the late Prince
of Shiraz, Husein Ali-Mirza, used to graze.
Having crossed a belt of mountains, we
descended into another plain, covered with large
patches of high reeds and fine pastures. At
eleven we turned to the south. In an eastern
direction from this point, close to some heights,
is situated the rich village of Zergan, the
nursery of the greater majority of the chalvadars,
or muleteers, who are spread all over Persia,
forming a distinct class, with laws, habits, pre
judices, and superstitions peculiar to themselves.
The fields around Zergan are very well cul
tivated. A large karavanserai stands close to
the village, which is about five farsangs distant
from Shiraz, Persepolis being between nine or
ten farsangs from the latter city.
The road first took us to W.S.W., and then
inclined to S.S.W., over a hilly, stony, and
barren country. A farsang from Zergan we
passed a fortified place, now empty, but which
had been garrisoned a few years past in order
to protect the traveller from the marauding
174 TRAVELS IN
propensities of the wandering tribes during the
unsettled state of the country. One farsang
further brought us to another karavanserai;
and on nearing Shiraz, we came to a rahdar-
khaneh, or toll-gate, established for collecting
duty on merchandise, but which has been
done away with by the chief Mushteid, or
head of the clergy at Shiraz, Sheikh Abu-
Turab. Near the rahdar-khaneh I was met by the
eldest son of Muhammed Ali Khan Navob, a
very intelligent and interesting young lad, in
whose father's house I meant to stop, he being
an old acquaintance of mine, and a most excel
lent man into the bargain.
Half a farsang distant from the gates of
Shiraz is the narrow passage which leads down
into the plain, and is called Tengi Allah Akbar,
from whence the town, with the adjacent
country, first bursts upon the sight, offering a
magnificent panorama of buildings and gardens,
filled with dark and graceful cypresses.
On the brow of the Tengi Allah Akbar, we
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 175
passed under an arch-way, over which there
are several apartments fitted up, and in one
of them the Shirazi religiously preserve as a
relic the Koran of Sultan Ibrahim, son of
Sultan Rokh, and grandson of Amir Timur.
The merit of this Koran is greatly owing to
its bulk, and is said to weigh upwards of ten
mani, or about eighty pounds.
By the way I was shown the brook of
Ruknabad, celebrated in verse by the greatest
native poet. Had it not been pointed out to
me, I never should have noticed this insig
nificant stream, to which Hafis has given such
renown, that its name is repeated by a greater
number of mouths than its meagre waters could
quench the thirst of. The same exaggeration
prevails in the moral world, and many a mortal
who has been extolled to the skies, will, perhaps,
when weighed in the balance of eternal justice,
be found wanting.
We could only reach Shiraz about sun-set.
I was received in the most friendly manner by
the Navob, under whose hospitable roof I re-
176 TRAVELS IN
mained the few days of my stay in this
town. After my host and his friends, who were
assembled in the reception-hall, had finished
their evening Namaz, or prayers, and the latter
had taken their leave, he conducted me into
an interior apartment, where a table was laid
out with viands suited to a European palate.
Here we spent a most pleasant evening,
passing in review the various events we had
witnessed together a few years before at Teheran,
at the accession to the throne of the reigning
Sovereign of Persia, His Majesty Muhammed
Shah. The next day was occupied in visiting the
different gardens for which Shiraz is celebrated.
The season of the year was not favourable for
their inspection, although the weather was
particularly fine, but with a little imagination
I could take for granted all that the natives
have written in praise of these lovely abodes
of the nightingale. I readily indeed allow that
in spring these gardens must be beautiful.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 177
The pure brilliancy of the Persian sky, the
brightness and transparency of its verdure,
the delicious odours that are wafted through
the air from the groves of fruit-trees, rich in
their vernal blossoms, and the rippling sounds
of the crystal cascades, must enrapture the senses,
and involuntarily steal away the heart of all
such as are susceptible of the charms of nature ;
and, as all is relative here below, the beauty
of these little oases is enhanced by the aridity
of the rocks and plains that surround them.
I pass over the description of the gardens
of Saadi and of Hafis with the monumental
remains of these two poets and philosophers,
the pride of their countrymen; that of Dil-
kusha and the garden, with the palace called
Takhti-Kajar, these places having, been
enlarged upon by most of our western travellers,
who have visited Shiraz.
However, before I quit this , city to enter
on my new journey, I may be allowed to
bestow a few remarks on the state, in which
I found it, as well as the province of Fars.
VOL. I. N
178
TRAVELS IN
Since the death of Fet'h-Ali-Shah, which
happened in the latter end of the year 1834,
six different Governors have succeeded each
other in the administration of the province.
After the removal of Husein-Ali-Mirza, who
had been the Ferman Ferma, or Vice-roy of
Fars, for many years, during the life time of
his father, the old King, and had governed it
almost as an independent sovereign, Manucher-
Khan, the Moetemid-Daulet, was enjoined by
the present Shah to establish order in that
province, under the nominal authority of Firuz-
Mirza, one of the younger sons of Abbas
Mirza, the late Naib-Sultan.
In 1836, another son of that Prince, Feridan-
Mirza, former Chief of Aderbeijan, and favourite
pupil of the Prime Minister, was named
Ferman Ferma of Fars, while Manucher-Khan
was appointed to the Government of Kerman-
shah, with Luristan and Arabistan. Symptoms
of discontent soon became manifest, and at
length reached to such a climax, that the
Shahzadeh was forced to fly from Shiraz, and
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 179
Mirza Nebi-Khan, the Divan-Begi (President
of the Civil and Criminal Court), was sent
to re-establish order and tranquillity. In the
summer of 1840, he was succeeded by a near
kinsman of the Shah, Nasrullah Khan Kajar,
who soon after his arrival fell sick and died.
Another step-brother of the King, Ferhad
Mirza, replaced him. From the rapid succes
sion of Chiefs, the province had suffered
materially; each of these Governors, inde
pendently of the sum paid to the Crown for
the farming of the province, had been ex
posed to other considerable expenses, in those
gratuities which are generally attendant in
acknowledgment of State favours.
The first object of a Governor, therefore, after
taking possession of his new government was
to repay himself as well as he could at the
expense, and to the injury of the inhabitants,
without regard to the regular taxation of the
country.* * On visiting the palace of Kerim-Khan, I met there an
old man, I believe a contemporary of the Vakil, who, with
N 2
180 TRAVELS IN
Although Fars is one of the richest, if not
the richest, province of the kingdom, the arrears
extended to a great amount, and the exhausted
contributors were unable any more to meet
the demands of Government. The annual
assessment of Fars is 360,000 tomans, or about
180,000Z., which, with good management, might
be doubled. The soil being rich, the produc
tions various, the country requires only a good
administration and some security for property,
to be in a flourishing state. But unfortunately
this desideratum is felt all over the kingdom,
and it is not probable that it will be soon
attained. I found Shiraz divided into two rival camps.
At the head of one party was the U-Begi,
tears in his eyes, pointed to the work of destruction and
spoliation, which had been practised on the ornamented
walls of the apartments. Venetian mirrors, and portraits
painted on glass, which formerly decorated the halls, had
been removed, and such as had resisted the hand of the
spoiler, by sticking firmly to the walls, had been wantonly
shattered to pieces.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 181
whose elder brother, the U-Khani, or chief of
a great number of the Nomadic tribes of Fars,
resides at Teheran. At the head of the other,
was the Kalentar or Civil Governor of the city,
Hajji Mirza Ali Akbar. He is the son of
.the famous Hajji Ibrahim, who betrayed the
cause of Lutf Ali Khan, the last of the Zend
dynasty, in favour of Aga Muhammed Khan
Kajar. The power of the Kalentar seems better
established in the precincts of the town, than
that of his antagonist, whose influence is greater
in the country among the Iliyats. The Shah-
Zadeh and his Vizier hope to uphold their
own authority by keeping alive the animosity
between the two rival parties, and in this
respect they only follow the policy pursued
all over the empire, and that which appears
from time immemorial to have been the system
of government in Persia. It happens still
oftener that the Prince, who is named governor
of a province, embraces the cause of one party,
while his minister sides with the adherents of
182 TRAVELS IN
the other. One can easily imagine what sort
of order and harmony can exist, when such
elements compose the administration.
As a stranger and a guest, allied to no party
in particular, I was welcomed and entertained
by the leaders of the two opposing camps, and
spent a most pleasant time, especially in the
company of the worthy Muhammed Khan-
Navob. I must say, that I have seldom met
with a Persian of more enlarged and liberal
views on most subjects, or a man more amiable
and prepossessing in his manners.
I was likewise agreeably surprised to meet,
at Shiraz, a chief of an Arab tribe, whose
acquaintance I had formed in 1837, at Ker-
manshah, where I had been fortunate enough
to render him a trifling service. This Ali-
Khan Boseri (the name of the Iliyat chief)
had not forgotten; and as soon as he was
apprized of my arrival, he came to see me, and
on the eve of my departure, invited me to a
splendid banquet.
I found there two sons of the former
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 183
Ferman Ferma, Imam Kuli Mirza, and Nadir.
Mirza, who, although greatly fallen from their
former consequence, kept up for awhile their
princely importance. This, however, gave way
by degrees, as they helped themselves to the
sparkling hulari, till at length one of them who
sat next to me, became very communicative,
and even affectionate. He liked the Frengi, he
said, and had always courted the acquaintance of
the Europeans who came to Shiraz. To the
company he boasted of his knowledge of the
languages of the Frengi, and appealed to me to
decide whether that was not the case, as he
went on repeating at every bumper he took
up, the words, I luve you, I tank you, Sir !
From Ali-Khan Boseri I learned many par
ticulars which proved very useful to me in the
course .of my journey through Luristan, he
having twice travelled through the country.
The surname of Boseri is attached to his
name, and to that of the Arab tribe of which
he is the chief, on account of their descent
from those Arabs who first settled near Basra,
184
TRAVELS IN
and from thence extended their conquests into
Persia. Before leaving Shiraz, I visited the tomb of
poor Madame de La Marinierre, which had
been raised to her memory by the friendly
care of her countryman, in the service of the
Shah. This French lady had resided for a number
of years in Persia. She was rather an eccentric
woman ; and the fact alone of having come to
this country by herself, would be sufficient to
stamp her character with originality; but
though singular, she had many excellent quali
ties, with a warm and generous heart, which
few were aware of, and therefore knew not
how to appreciate her worth. Among some of
her oddities, I may mention the following: —
Whilst in the service of Abbas-Mirza, the Naib
Sultan, or heir-presumptive, in the quahty of
governess and teacher of the French language
to his sons, Madame de La Marinierre had
contrived to cast the moulds of the wrists and
ankles of all those young women of his and his
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 185
sons' harems who Avere most remarkable for their
slender forms, and carried them about wherever
she went. Had this curious collection been
preserved it might have formed an interesting
study of this branch of the human form, but
unfortunately the Persian chalvadars or mule
teers, who are no respecters of persons' limbs,
on unloading their animals one fine morning,
flung down on the ground the chest which con
tained these precious relics, and on the cover
being opened, lo ! they presented one sad heap
of desolation. At the time the cholera raged
in Persia, Madame de La Marinierre showed
much courage and self-abnegation in attending
on the sick, and ministering to their wants as
much as lay in her power, although she was
just herself recovering from the same complaint.
The death of Madame de La Marinierre is
ascribed to her own imprudence. She had
already once performed the journey from Tabriz
to Shiraz, and had written a description of her
travels, with an account of the remains of
Persepolis in Persian, which she presented to
186 TRAVELS IN
the Shah, together with many sketches of the
ruins drawn by a native artist, whom she had
engaged to accompany her to Takhti-Jemshid
for that purpose. In the spring of 1841 being
at Isfahan, she formed the project of exploring
Fesa and Darabjird, notwithstanding the
weighty objections that were raised by her
friends, to dissuade her from undertaking the
journey, or, at least, to engage her to postpone
it during the unhealthy summer season in these
hot districts. But Madame de La Marinierre
was not a woman to be easily dissuaded when
she had once made up her mind, and found to
her cost, when it was too late, that the warning
she had received was well grounded. She had
not been long in those parts before she was
attacked by the prevailing fever of the country,
which put an end to her existence on her return
to Shiraz.
It appears that Madame de La Marinierre
belonged to a noble family in France, which had
suffered by the great revolution of 1789; in
later years, according to her account, she had
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 187
been lectrice to the Queen of Naples, the sister
of Napoleon, and Murat's wife. And although
she had been much injured by her country, she
felt and expressed herself on all occasions
warmly in favour of her native land.
CHAPTER VIII.
Different roads leading from Shiraz to Behbehan. — Fur
nished with artillery horses through the kindness of the
Prince Ferhad-Mirza. — Kind feeling and hospitality of
the Persians. — Quit Shiraz. — Precaution to be adopted
in travelling during winter through the snow. — Desht-
Arjan. — Contrast in the climate at Piri-Zen and Kuteli-
Dohter. — Sculptured rock. — Overtaken by night. — Arrival
at Kazerun.
On arriving at Shiraz, I made the necessary
inquiries concerning the road I was to follow,
in order to reach Behbehan, to the Governor
of which place I had a letter of introduction
from the Moetemid, requesting him to furnish
me with the means of reaching Shushter in
safety. I learned that three different roads lead to
Behbehan. The first passes through the valley
of Hular, celebrated for its vineyards, which
yield the best sort of Shiraz wine. By this
road the distance to Behbehan is not much
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN.
189
above fifty farsangs, and it has the following
stations : —
From Shiraz to Guyan
to Slnil .
to Kal'eh Haroverjan
to Husein-Khan
to Faliyan
to Ser-Abi-Siah
to Basht .
to Dughumbedan or
Dughumbezan
to Kheirabad
to Behbehan
Farsangs. 4"> In the limits of
Z) Shiraz.
4-
7 35 4-
In Shiilistan or
territory of the
Mamasenis.
In the territory
of the Khogilu
dependency of
Behbehan.
50
This route was followed by Sir John M'Donald
Kinneir, on his journey from Shushter to Shi
raz, and leads through the pass of Kal'eh-
Sefid. The second road conducts to Abu-Shehr
over Kazerun, from this by sea to Hindiyan,
and then by land to Behbehan; this is the
usual route followed by travellers bound for
Behbehan; though there exists another road,
190 TRAVELS IN
which, before reaching Abu-Shehr, turns to the
right, and follows the sea-beach.
The third route, instead of pursuing the
direct Hne to Abu-Shehr, strikes off from
Kazerun to the north, and, passing by the
ruins of Shapur, penetrates into the heart of
the Mamaseni country, and only joins the first
route at Faliyan.
Not being aware that a description of this
latter road existed, and learning, moreover, that
the ruins of Shapur and Naubenjan lay on my
way, I preferred it to the two former, although
each of them would have been replete with
novelty for me. The stations of the third run
thus (although I did not keep strictly to
them) : —
From Shiraz to Khaneh-Zenian
Farsangs. . 7
to Desht-Arjan .
. . 4
Karavanserai Kutel-i-Dohter
. 4
to Kazerun .
. . 6
to Diriz .
. 3
to Nudiin
. 5
to Ntirabad
. 8
to Faliyan
. 2
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 191
From Shiraz to Kal'eh-Ali Veis-Khan
or Ser-Ab-i-Siah
5
to Basht
4
to Dughumbezan .
9
to Kheirabad
8
to Behbehan
3
68
With the help of my hospitable host, Mu-
hammed-Ali-Khan Navob, and his friend,
Sardar Hassan-Khan, I was soon furnished
with the necessary papers to the different petty
chieftains of the Mamaseni tribes, independently
of the Firman of the Shah, which was couched
in general terms, and addressed to the governors
of provinces and to the kedkhudas of vil
lages, in whatever direction I might chance to
proceed, and a Rakam, or order from the
Governor of Fars, Behbehan being under his
jurisdiction. I had performed my journey from Teheran
to Shiraz by post, this being the swiftest mode
of conveyance, though far less convenient than
192 TRAVELS IN
riding one's own horses. But as there are no
Chapar-khanehs, or post stations, established
between Shiraz and Behbehan, the young
Prince Ferhad-Mirza, the Governor of Fars,
kindly offered to supply me with horses from
the Artillery-park, one for myself, two for my
servants, and a fourth for my baggage, appoint
ing, at the same time, an artillery sergeant,
well acquainted with the country, to conduct me
in safety to Behbehan.
I have a pleasant duty to perform, in
expressing my heartfelt acknowledgments for
the marks of kindness and attention I have,
with very few exceptions, met with, as well
from the highest as from the lowest class of
Persians, with whom I have come in contact
during my sojourn in that country ; and the
grateful feelings such conduct has kindled in
my breast, are the choicest gems the East could
bestow on me.
On the 18th of January, 1841, I left Shiraz
before sunrise. The morning Avas excessively
cold. The snoAV which had fallen the day
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 193
before, and had been swept off the terraced
roofs of the houses, was heaped up in the
streets and much retarded our progress. The
wind blew from the north-east; and emerging
out of the city gate, I found the plain of
Shiraz, which the native poets compare with
the gardens of Paradise, bearing a great
resemblance to the Siberian tundra* in the
depths of winter. When the sun rose, the
dazzling brightness from the snow became so
glaring, that I had recourse to my coloured
spectacles, but an unlucky jerk of my horse
threw them down and broke the glasses.
Had I not taken the precaution to provide
myself with a green crape veil I should have
been much inconvenienced. I therefore recom
mend all who chance to travel during winter
in Persia, always to provide themselves with
coloured spectacles or green crape, because
without .this precaution, the refraction from
* Tundra, a provincial word in use among the in
habitants of Siberia, designates the low country, which
extends to the frozen ocean.
VOL. 1. O
194 TRAVELS IN
the rays of the sun on the snow is so great,
and acts so powerfully on the eyes, that in
flammation easily ensues, causing incredible
pain.* We pursued a westerly direction, first over the
plam of Shiraz, and then along hillocks till we
reached the Ailla'ge and karavanserai of Kal'eh-
Zenian, about eight farsangs from the town.
Close to the village flows a petty stream pro
ceeding from the mountains in a north-western
direction, and continuing its course into the
plain of Shiraz. The road from hence winds
through a hilly country, covered Avith shrubs
and dwarfish oaks. To the right are the
elevated mountains of Ardekan, capped Avith
* The best cure for it, as far at least as my experience
goes, is that recommended by the natives. This consists in
holding the face over steam, as hot as one can bear it.
The steam can be procured by putting some red coals or
red ' iron into a bucket with snow ; likewise steam from
the infusion of black tea, but one must take the pre
caution of isolating oneself with the steam apparatus from
contact with the external air, by wrapping oneself over
completely with a cloth.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 195
snow. From the summit of Sine-Sefid, or the
white breast, (Avhere a round tower is erected,
in which the weary traveller may find some
shelter,) the hills slope to the west, into the
valley of Desht-Arjan, while the great chain
continues its course to the south-east. It took
us a considerable time to reach the edge of the
valley, and the sun had long set ere we arrived
at the ruined karavanserai of the deserted
village of Desht-Arjan.
After a ride of twelve farsangs, which are
equal to forty-five English miles, over a very
difficult and unpleasant country, none of us felt
much inclined to prepare supper, and even had
any one evinced a desire to help his neighbour,
his charitable intentions would have been inef
fectual, as there was nothing to be got. The
best thing, therefore, I could do, was to wrap
myself up in my cloak and lay down for warmth
close to the horses, where I soon sank into
profound sleep.
We were up by daybreak, and followed the
valley of Desht-Arjan in a southern direction.
o 2
196 TRAVELS IN
The ground was covered with snow, and, to
judge by the surrounding mountains, and the
country I passed through later in the course
of the day, I think Desht-Arjan must form
a very high table land. A small rivulet
(near the source of which is situated the
karavanserai above mentioned) runs along this
valley, and a farsang further to the south
east it forms a lake, or a marsh overgrown with
rushes. Desht-Arjan yields fine pastures, on Avhich
the studs of the former Ferman Ferma used
to graze. The Prince himself often visited this
spot for the purpose of sport, there being
abundance of game in the mountains. The wild
boar also is met Avith in the Kamish. After a
ride of tAvo hours, we had a short ascent to per
form, and then descended by a very rapid and
prolonged declivity. This chain of mountains is
the Piri-Zen, (or the hill of the old woman,)
which extends from N.N.W. to S.E. From its
summit I Avitnessed a striking contrast in nature.
The valley of Desht-Arjan, with the snowy
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 197
heights behind it, and the eastern declivities
of the Pir-i-Zen, Avere covered with snow, and
bore all the features of winter ; whilst on the
western side of the same chain, towards Kutel-
i-Dokhter, (or the mountain of the maiden,)
the vegetation was green, the air balmy and
Avarm, and not a particle of snow was to be
seen. I even plucked a few spring flowers
AAhich grew among the stones close to the road.
Thus the abrupt chain of Pir-i-Zen served as
a line of demarcation between winter and
spring. It is very nkely that the appellation
of Old Woman and the. Maiden, given by the
Persians to these two chains, is a poetical
allusion to the diversity of climate which so
strikingly distinguishes the one from the other.
After leaving the karavanserai of Mian-
Kutel, half-way down the Pir-i-Zen, and crossing
the Valley of Deshtber,* which divides the
* The same which Mr. Ainsworth calls the Valley of
Abdui, from a village of that name near the foot of the
Piri-Zen. See his " Researches in Assyria, Babylonia, and
Chaldea," &c, page 230.
198 TRAVELS IN
two chains, and is partly cultivated, but mostly
covered with forest-trees, I rode up the Kutel-i-
Dokhter, from the height of which I obtained a
splendid view of the plain of Kazerun, closed to
the west by the Kumerij mountains. The descent
from Kutel-i-Dokhter is very steep, and a stone
pavement, consisting of steps, runs in a zig-zag
line down to the foot of the hill. It has so
often attracted attention, and been described
by European travellers, that I may dis
pense with giving a detailed account of
it. I shall only express my doubts as
to its representing the climax megale of
Pliny, as some writers suppose, because Pliriy
expressly mentions that this great ladder road
was in the interior of the country in a
direction towards Media,* which is not the case
here. At the extremity of a projecting mountain,
close to the road, is an uncouth sculpture,
* See " Histoire Naturelle de Pline," traduite par M.
de Sivry, torn. ii. lib. vi. chap. xxvi. p. 775, and my further
observations on it in chapter xvii.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 199
representing Timur Mirza,* one of the sons of
the late Ferman Ferma of Fars, Avith his
favourite lion, which the young prince had
brought up from a whelp, and had taught to
follow him like a dog. What disfigures the
bas-relief still more is, that the figures are
painted in colours like the modern group of
figures in the cave of Takhti-Bostan, near
Kirmanshah, where the late Muhammed-'AU-
Mirza caused himself to be represented, sur
rounded by his courtiers, above one of the
ancient sculptures of the Royal chase.
There is a copious spring of water in this
mountain,*]- which discharges itself into a lake at
some distance to the left of the road.
I had sent my guide on before to prepare a
lodging for us at Kazerun, whilst our little
party, consisting of myself and my two servants,
* Timur Mirza was one of the Persian princes who visited
England in 1839.
f Mr. Ainsworth supposes that the waters of the river
of Desht-Arjan, which have no visible outlet, may find
their vent at this spot. See his " Researches in Assyria,"
&c, p. 230.
200 TRAVELS IN
advanced leisurely, the horses of the latter being
quite knocked up. But this slow pace could
not suit me long, and, setting my steed into
an easy trot, I soon lost sight of them. As
long as it was light I did not care, but when
it grew dusky, and still no sign of the town
appeared, I halted and got off my horse,
in the expectation that my fellow-travellers
would soon come up. The time, however,
waxed late without their making their appear
ance. The sun had already set, and night
was creeping with its lengthened shadows over
the earth. I recollected this Avas generally the
time for proAvling beasts to quit their hiding-
places and approach villages and toAvns in
quest of prey, and as there are lions and
leopards in the plain of Kazerun, I did not
feel myself quite safe, sitting alone on a heap
of stones in the middle of the plain. I there
fore got on horseback, and pursued my way,
half bent from the saddle, with my eyes fixed
on the ground, in order not to miss the beaten
track. It had now become pitch-dark, and still
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 201
no sounds Avere heard denoting the near habita
tions of man, nor were any lights discernible in
the distance. All on a sudden my horse started,
and nearly brought me down. Something had
swiftly crossed the path close in front of the
horse, which set off in a gallop — perhaps the
spur had done its duty, by an instinctive
pressure of the leg. The dingling of a bell
soon greeted my ear ; no music could have
proved more pleasant at that moment, and
after a few minutes' ride in the direction from
Avhence the sounds came, I joined a party
of Chalvadars (Persian muleteers) driving along
several strings of camels, loaded with cut
straw, which is stuffed into net bags and
throAvn over their backs. Luckily the men
were proceeding to Kazerun, which was still
at some distance. As we approached, a horse
man came to meet me on behalf of the chief
of the place to show me the way to my
lodging, where I soon alighted, fatigued and
bruised all over, having made that day up
wards of nine farsangs, or forty-three miles,
202 TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN.
on a jaded animal. My servants had had a
still more tedious day of it, as they were
obliged to dismount and lead their tired
horses the latter part of the road. They did
not reach Kazerun until late at night.
CHAPTER IX.
Description of Kazerun. — Valley of Kazerun. — Gilevand
guides. — Ruins of Shapur. — Mamaseni encampment of
the Dushmen-Ziyari tribe. — Scene on arriving there. —
Vanity of earthly grandeur. — Visit the cave of Shapur. —
Giveh, sort of sandals worn by the mountaineers. — View
from the entrance of the cave of the adjacent country. —
Valley of Kuh-Mereh or Dasht-i-Ber. — Course of the
Shapur river. — Encampment of Jehangir-Khan, a Ma
maseni chief. — I am passed on from one chief to another
in return for a written certificate. — Chenoshejan. —
TTinter residence of the Dushmen-Ziyari Mamaseni. —
Circuitous road for wheeled carriages to avoid the
Kutel-i-Dokhter. — Quit Chenoshejan. — Mune-nahl. —
Lurking-place of the marauding mountaineers. — Proof of
the unsettled state of the country. — Sahrai-Bahram. —
Sculptures in the rock. — River of Behram. — Ruins of
Nobenjan. — The fort of Nurabad. — Residence of the
Bekesh Mamaseni. — Kal'eh-Sefid. — My new Bekesh
guides. — Turaj birds. — Valley of Sha'b-bevan. — Fields of
Narcissuses. — Arrival at Fahliyan.
January 20. — The next morning, while pre
parations were making, and the horses were
204 TRAVELS IN
being saddled for our departure, I ascended
the terraced roof of my lodging in order to
obtain a view of the town.
Kazerun stands in a plain, and must formerly
have been of some extent ; but it is at present
in a very dilapidated state, owing in a great
measure to an earthquake, but partly to the
ravages of Avar. The buildings are of stone,
joined together with white cement; and the
walls of most of the houses are AvhiteAvashed,
which imparts to the town a very clean ap
pearance, unlike the generality of Persian cities.
This reminded me of the neat white habitations
of the peasantry in Little Russia, or the
Ukraine ; and I learn that similar hamlets form
the characteristic of Wales and the south-Avest
parts of Hampshire. In nearly every yard
there are palm-trees, a feature quite peculiar to
Kazerun, Avhich is the first place to the Avest of
Shiraz Avhere the palm prospers.
Independently of the Muhammedan popula
tion, which may amount to a feAV thousand
souls, Kazerun contains about forty houses
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 205
belonging to the Jews, but it has no Armenian
inhabitants. The present chief of the place is of Turkish
extraction, by name Muhammed Hasan-Khan,
from Tabriz, a sartip or general in the service
of the Shah, and has under his command a
regiment of infantry, composed of 400 men
from Faraghun, Kesoz, and Meloir, with two
field-pieces, and forty or fifty well-appointed
cavalry. On obtaining from Muhammed Hasan Khan
four well mounted armed men, we left the town
and proceeded in a northern direction, along
the plain of Kazerun, having the range of
the Kutel-i-Dokhter to our right, and that of
Kumarij to the left. Near the foot of the
latter mountain several villages were discernible,
viz., Kasekun, Kal'eh Sayid, and Riza-Khan.
Not far from the latter we passed considerable
ruins, many grave-stones, and several water
courses. This spot is half-way between Kaze
run and the village of Diriz ; but as we were
hurrying onward, I could not stop to examine
206
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these remains. From Diriz, which is probably
one and a half farsang N.N.W. from Kazerun,
Ave arrived at Taleghun, one farsang further
to the north. This miserable village is the
winter residence, or Kishlak, of the Gilevand
tribe, and is Avell guarded against all surprise
by a troop of fierce shaggy dogs, which came
out to meet us with loud barking and other
demonstrations of no very friendly nature. (A
very fine specimen of this species of Persian
shepherd dog is exhibited in the Zoological
Gardens, Regent's Park.)
The Gulams of Muhammed Hasan Khan
handed me over to a dozen of the Gilevand
tufengchi (musketeers), Avho Avere to conduct
me into the country of the Mamaseni ; and
protect me, moreover, on the road against the
assaults of those rough mountaineers themselves
should they prove troublesome.
The plain of Kazerun, which runs up to
the Shapur river in a northern direction, may
be two farsangs in Avidth by three in length,
and is well cultivated. On approaching the
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 207
ruins of Shapur, the country becomes more
wild, and is covered with brush-wood and
clusters of trees, among which the Gerchek
(Rhicinus Palma Christi, from which castor-oil
is extracted), groAvs Avild, and, instead of being
a plant, resembles a moderate-sized tree, from
twelve to fourteen feet in height.
Diverging from our northern direction, we
now moved towards N.N.E., and, on nearing
the mountains, passed close to a tank of clear
spring water, covered in several places with
reeds and other water plants, shaded by tall
trees. The borders of this basin are partly
inlaid with large blocks of polished granite,
of very good Avorkmanship, resembling in nature
the stones of the square building that M. Mo-
rier speaks of among the ruins of Shapur. I
could not stop to examine with attention the
ruins of the latter, scattered over the plain,
and concealed by rich, luxuriant, and even
rank vegetation ; nor could I spare time for
a careful sketch of the bas-reliefs on the
porphyry sides of the rocks at the entrance
of the valley of Shapur, as my guides seemed
208 TRAVELS IN
very reluctant to remain exposed to the sharp
and cold Avind which blew from the defile. I
consoled myself with the idea that these ruins
have already been described by several Euro
pean travellers,* and that they had been very
lately visited by two eminent French artists,
MM. Flandin and Coste ; the one as a painter,
and the other an architect, who will probably
soon enrich the domains of science by offering
to the world their splendid portfolios on the
ancient monuments of Persia.
I shall, therefore, content myself for the
present, by observing that the valley of Shapur
possesses six distinct bas-reliefs, of which two are
sculptured on the rock on the left bank of the
Shapur river, and four on the opposite right
bank. They resemble the style of the sculp
tures at Nakshi-Rustam and Nakshi-Kejeb,
near Persepolis ; but the workmanship is not
everywhere equal, and appears to have been
performed by different hands, and very pro-
* Morier's " First and Second Journey through Persia,"
&c, and Sir William Ouseley's " Travels in A'arious Coun
tries of the East."
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 209
bably at different periods. Much, likewise,
must have depended on the nature of the rock
out of which they are heAvn. For a detailed
description of these sculptures I refer the reader
to Professor Ritter's valuable work,* or Mr.
Morier's,-f and Sir W. Ouseley's " Travels ; " %
and shall only observe, that the second tablet
on the left bank, on entering the valley from
the west, is more artistically finished than the
rest. It is supposed to represent the triumph
of Shapur I. over the Emperor Valerian,
though the vanquished monarch appears rather
too young a man for Valerian, who, according
to history, was about seventy years old at the
time Shapur took him prisoner at Edesse. §
On the opposite side of the river, at the
* See C. Ritter's " Erdkunde von Asien," vol. viii.,
p. 827, and following.
f Morier's " First Journey through Persia," &c, p. 86,
and following.
| Sir William Ouseley's " Travels," vol, i., chap, vi.,
p. 279, and the following.
§ See Gibbon on the " Rise and Fall of the Roman
Empire," &c, chap, x., and Note 63.
VOL. I. P
210
TRAVELS IN
foot of the other four sculptures, is a canal
cut in the rock, along which I was obliged
to proceed, in order to pass from one tablet to
the other, crawling and squeezing myself
through several places where the passages of
the canal are narrow, and scooped deep into
the rock ; for the bas-reliefs are at some height
above the bed of the river, and the banks are
too steep and overgrown with willows, to allow
any other mode of approach.
I learned from my native guides, that some
years ago the famous robber of the Mamaseni,
Veli-Khan, had found among the ruins of the
fort, on the summit of the hill which com
mands the pass, a considerable treasure, con
sisting of gold coins, with figures on them,
resembling those on the bas-reliefs, (conse
quently of the Sasanian period,) and that he
had them melted, and made into an ornamental
chain, attached to the bridle of his horse.
On arriving at a Mamaseni encampment of the
Dushmen-Ziyari tribe, Ave found in it women
and children only. These, together Avith their
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 211
dogs set up a loud noise, and protested
vehemently against our taking up our quarters
there for the night. It Avas with some diffi
culty Ave could make the former understand
that there was nothing to fear, as they would
be paid for the food we required for our party
and the provender for the cattle.
At last they ceded and cleared out for me
a hovel into which I retired. The lower part
of it consisted of raised earth, over which a
black awning (being the tent of the Iliyats)
rested on two poles. Such is the usual dwell
ing of the Nomades in their Germesir or winter
encampments. Some coarse Avheaten bread and
sheep's milk were first procured, and afterwards
a kid roasted on a spike, which proved very
welcome. Little by little the shrill voices of
the females abated, the cries of the children
ceased, the barking and yelping of the dogs
died away, — all was hushed in sleep, " and
silent night stole softly over the landscape."
I sat up during the greater part of the night
arranging my notes and writing letters to my
p 2
212 TRAVELS IN
friends, as I had now entered on a seldom
trodden ground, and was about to travel among
a wild and unruly race of men, the Mamaseni,
the Khogilu, and Bakhtiyar mountain tribes.
The locality itself was a fit spot for medita
tion. It was in the same valley with, and
not far distant from, the ruins of Shapur, the
once lovely and favoured residence of the proud
Sasanian monarchs. It was on the granite of
these rocks that the haughty Shapur had be
queathed to posterity his own fame and the
shame of Rome ! But Avhile history records
the triumphs of a barbarian monarch, and the
humiliation of the once mighty mistress of the
world, the moralist ponders over the strange
vicissitudes of men and empires, over sceptres
broken, over poAver gone, over victors and
victims crumbling together in the same dust
of ages.
This universal annihilation of all earthly
pursuits, however lofty and however vast,
would offer a melancholy, discouraging, nay,
revolting prospect, to the thinking mind, did
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 213
not revealed religion step forth and " vindicate
the ways of God to man," by pointing at the
immortality of our souls and chastening the
proud spirit of the creature by the eternal truth,
that God alone is great.
With the dawn of day my guides were
ready to conduct me to a natural cave high
up in the mountain, where a colossal statue
was to be seen. We ascended with difficulty
a very steep and craggy hill, parts of which
were so slippery that I was obliged to take
off my boots and scramble on all fours, and
in other places to be drawn up, where the
nature of the ground was too abrupt for me
to climb. I could not help admiring the
agility with which my guides jumped from
rock to rock, like mountain-goats, with the
same assurance and nonchalance as if they
were walking over level ground. The moun
taineers of Persia generally wear a sort of
sandal, with the point turned up to preserve
their toes from prickly and thorny shrubs
which grow on the mountains. They call
214 TRAVELS IN
them Giveh. The part of the sandal covering
the sides of the foot is knitted with thick
twisted cotton, very elastic. The sole, instead
of being made of one piece of leather, consists
of short straps of raw bullock's hide, closely
sewn together. It is surprising how lasting
they are, and how well adapted to climbing up
or descending steep hills : they also prevent the
foot from slipping.
We at length reached the mouth of the
cave. The entrance, as well as the interior,
is spacious. A colossal figure Avas lying before
us, with the head half buried in the ground
and the heels up, or, rather, the remaining
stumps of the feet : while on a huge stone,
which had formed the pedestal, still rest the
feet, covered by sandals. I suspect that the
figure must have reached the ceiling, as there
is something projecting from it, just over
the pedestal and the whole probably formed
once a natural column, supporting the dome of
the cave before the pillar was sculptured to
represent, as is supposed, the figure of Shapur.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 215
The arms are likewise broken, and I had to
remove some earth before I could ascertain what
sort of tiara crowned the head.
Whilst the guides were busy in preparing the
torches and dipping them into naphtha, Avhich I
had the precaution to take with me from
Kazerun at the suggestion of a young French
traveller ; Le Vicomte de Sivrac, whom I had
previously met at Isfahan, I took a sketch of
the figure, after which we went to explore the
dark mazes of the labyrinth. We went from
one chamber to another, some connected by
broad, others by narrow passages ; long stalac
tites tapering downwards hung from the
ceiling. The glaring light of our torches shone
at times on the white lime walls. In other
places they were of a yelloAvish hue, with dark
streaks and mouldy patches produced by the
water oozing through the fissures, and the
general dampness of these subterranean man
sions. I wished much to get to the end of the
grotto, but my guides assured me very seriously
that it had none; that even Veli-Khan, the
216 TRAVELS IN
modern Rustam of the Mamaseni, had once
ventured far into the bowels of the mountain;
that he came into a spacious hall, through
which a subterraneous river flows, and spent
the night carousing there with his friends;
but that no one had gone beyond, and, in fact,
that no one could.
This would not have proved a sufficient argu
ment to dissuade me from venturing further, had
not a stronger motive induced us to retrace our
steps. As our footing Avas far from being sure, and
we were continually stumbling OArer uneven
ground, or getting into pools of water, the
guides had lost or wetted many of their tapers,
and our stock of rags for making new torches
was nearly exhausted. So, making a Airtue of
necessity, we retreated, frightening by the way
swarms of Avild pigeons Avhich nestle in the
walls of these lofty grottoes.
On quitting the cave, I gazed some time on
the beautiful scenery around me. As the
caArern is at a considerable elevation up the hill,
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 217
I could command a vast horizon, and truly it
was a splendid sight. Three parallel chains
of mountains, intersected by broad valleys recede
towards the south, as far as the eye can follow
them.* The craggy heights of the Pir-i-Zen
like the ribs of a giant, covered partly with
snow, project to the left, while the lofty Kumarij
separating the plain of the same name from that
of Kazerun, extend in an opposite direction.
Between the two, and facing the entrance of
the grotto, rises the rugged and precipitous
Ktitel-i-Dokhter; below spreads the lovely valley
* They attain the Persian Gulf, and form part of that
great chain of mountains which Moore has so poetically de
scribed in his Fire Worshippers : —
" There stood — but one short league away
From old Harmozia's sultry bay —
A rocky mountain ; o'er the sea
Of Omar beetling awfully,
A last and solitary link
Of those stupendous chains that reach
From the broad Caspian's reedy brink,
Down winding to the green sea beach."
— Poem of the Fire Worshippers, in Moore's " Lalla-
Rookh," p. 208.
218 TRAVELS IN
of Shapur, hemmed in between craggy rocks,
the river Shapur (probably the Granis of
Nearchus), issuing from the Pir-i-Zen is
seen wandering through the vale, at times
nearly choked by long elastic reeds that
wave gracefully in the air, or shaded by
the willow; at others, blending its blue
waters with the green verdure of its banks,
for, although Ave were then in the month
of January, nature appeared fresh, and had lost
few of its charms. We then descended into
the valley, at ten a.m., and followed the course
of the river of Shapur upwards, in an E.N.E.
direction. The stream is here almost choked
up with rushes and other aquatic plants.
At a quarter to eleven we entered the valley
of Kuh-mereh, or Desht-i-Ber, and turned
north. This valley is betAveen the chains of
mountains called Pir-i-Zen and Kutel-i-Dokhter,
and may be a farsang or a farsang and a-half
in width. It is the same valley that is crossed
in going from Shiraz to Kazerun, near
Miyaneh-Kutel, about five farsangs (about
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 219
tAventy miles) to the S.S.E. of the place where
we noAV were. I took the direction of the
river of Shapur. -It comes from the chain of
Pir-i-Zen, which is here east to south, and
after traversing the valley of Kuh-mereh,
forces a passage through the Kutel-i-Dokhter,
near the bas-reliefs of Shapur, waters the
beautiful plains of Kazerun, and is lost be
hind the mountains of Kumarij. The villages
of Nudtir and Sumgul, belonging to the district
of Kazerun, are in the mountains to the east.
At a quarter past eleven we turned a little to
the north-west, and at noon reached the en
campment of Jehangir-Khan, Mamaseni Chief
of the tribe of Dushmen-Ziyari. This encamp
ment ground is called Chenoshejan.
My guides from Kazerun delivered me over
to the Chief, and received from him a certificate
of my having arrived safe and sound in his
tent, and quitted me. I adopted the method
of causing myself to be passed, like a bale of
goods, from hand to hand, during the whole
of my journey through this wild tract of
country, and had every reason to be satisfied
220 TRAVELS IN
with the effect of this precaution, which made
the last person who had given a certificate of
my being alive responsible for my safety.
The residence of Jehangir Khan consisted of
a square tower constructed of clay, white
washed externally, furnished with loop-holes,
and surrounded by huts of the Mamaseni,
made of reeds, and by black tents covered
with mats. The Dushmen-Ziyari, since the
death of their principal Chief, Muhammed
Riza Khan, executed at Shiraz in 1840, by
order of its then Governor, Prince Feridun
Mirza, form three divisions, one under the
command of Jehangir Khan, another under
that of Hajji Husein Khan, and the third
under the orders of Aga-Khan, son of the late
Chief. Chenoshejan, which formed the Germesir or
winter quarters of Muhammed Riza Khan, is a
plain of considerable extent, which is bounded
on the east by the prolongation of the Pir-i-Zen,
from north to west by an offset of the same
chain, and on the south by the termination of
the Kutel-i-Dokhter.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 221
The following circuit may be made on the
road from Shiraz to Bu-shehr, in order to avoid
the descent of that pass, which is terrible for
a train of artillery. On descending Pir-i-Zen,
turn to the right through the valley of Deshti-
ber (Abdui in Ainsworth, from a village of
that name), cross the plain of Chenoshejan
which communicates with it, and 'thence pass
into that of Shapur, which forms a part of the
vale of Khazertin. This circuitous road has
the shape of a horse shoe, and presents no
obstacles for the transit of baggage, but it
is twelve farsangs (about forty-five miles) in
length, while the other is only about four
or five farsangs (fifteen or sixteen miles).
In the valleys, as well as on the sides of the
mountains, we find the balut, a species of oak,
the acorns of which are ground, and made into
a paste, which is used for food by the Iliyats.
The very steep summits of the Pir-i-Zen are all
peaked, and beyond them to the east the chain
of Adekan rears its snowy head.
On entering the country of the Mamaseni,
222 TRAVELS IN
I cautioned my servants to keep a sharp eye
over our things, as the natives are known to
be notorious thieves, when they cannot indulge
in open plunder. I was fortunate enough not
to lose one single article, while travelling
through this country, but I learned from a
friend, who visited the encampment of Cheno
shejan a few months later, that the Mamaseni
contrived to steal from under his pillow, while
he was asleep, his sword, which they drew
cautiously out of the scabbard, leaving the latter
behind. Suspecting Jehangir Khan himself of the
theft, yet admiring the clever Avay in which it
had been committed, the European next morn
ing handed over the scabbard to his host, ob
serving that his newly-acquired sAvord probably
required one. The Khan took it, and thanked
him. 22d. On the folloAving day I mounted my
horse at seven, a.m., accompanied by twelve
Iliyat tafengchi (musketeers), who were to escort
me to the next station. The direction 'of the
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 223
road was north, till we had quitted the balut
woods, and reached the heights of Mune-nahl,
by a very stony road. This is the boundary
of the district of Kazerun, which 1 had just
quitted, and that of Fahliyan,* which I now
entered. On descending from Mune-nahl, we
entered a valley running to the N.N.E., and
full of oaks, and passed a spring of fresh water,
named Meihur, on the left side of the road. I
enter into these minute details, as this part of
the country has not yet been described by any
traveller. At a quarter before ten, a. m., we
reached a bastengah, a promontory of the moun
tains, which was pointed out to me as marking
the place where the Mamaseni and their neigh
bours, the Bovi of the Koghilu tribe, issue from
their ambuscades to attack caravans. The place
is very wild, and admirably adapted, it must be
confessed, for this kind of sport. In the moun
tains on the right is the beautiful valley of
Bum, with its vineyards and groves of pome-
* Fahliyaw, pronounced Fahliyan.
224 TRAVELS IN
granates; while behind the mountains on the
left, a contrast which nature often delights in
forming, there is a desert tract called Mohur,
extending towards the Persian gulf, inhabited
only by lions, wild boars, and antelopes.
In advancing we disturbed by our appearance
several women and boys, employed in gathering
the acorns from the ground, and who, as soon as
they saw us from a distance, took to their heels.
In vain we called out to them not to be afraid ;
the more noise we made, the faster the poor
creatures ran ; and they were at last lost sight
of amid the thickets. This trifling incident
was the best criterion by which I could judge
of the unsettled state of the country through
which I was passing.
At a quarter past eleven, a.m., we reached
the plain of Sahrai Behram, at the entrance of
which I found sculptured on a rock a bas-relief
representing that prince, his face turned to
the beholder, seated, with two erect figures on
each side of him.
As a very short notice has been given of
X
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cq
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 225
this bas-relief by M. Kampfer, the only Euro
pean traveller, I believe, who makes mention
of it as an eye-Avitness, I may give here a
description of it.
Behram is recognised by the two-horned
tiara on his head, with broad fillets floating
over his shoulders, as is usual on monuments
of the Sasanian kings. He has also the
large head of curled hair which distinguishes
the portraits of the sovereigns of that dynasty.
The two figures on his left wear on their
heads a kind of mitre, like the mobeds or
high priests at Persepolis, and have beards.
They are in profile, with their faces turned
towards the king. The figure on the left
holds in his hand a straight sword with the
point towards the ground. Tavo figures on
the right, also in profile, and turned towards
Behram, have no beard, and wear caps such
as are seen on some coins of the Arsacidse.
Their hands are joined together and raised
up in a supplicating attitude. All the figures,
except that of the prince, have full puckered
VOL. I. Q
226 TRAVELS IN
trousers. This is all that can be distinguished
in these bas-reliefs; for unfortunately neither
the hand of time nor that of the Arabs has
respected this ancient monument. It should
be observed, that the workmanship is much
coarser than any met with at Nakshi-Rustam,
Nakshi-Kejeb, and even than some at Shapur.
Perhaps the nature of the rock is in part
the cause of this, or, it may be, that after
the death of Shapur the fine arts began to
decline in Persia. There appeared to me
some resemblance in the workmanship between
the bas-reliefs of Nakshi-Behram and one of
the tablets on the rock of Shapur, namely,
that in Avhich the head of a dead man is
brought to the king ; but as I had taken no
sketch of the latter, I was prevented from
examining them more closely.
At the foot of the rock on Avhich this
sculpture is cut, is the source of the river of
Behram, which runs toAvards the plain in a
north-west direction, but, like that of Shapur,
is almost choked up Avith rushes. Nakshi-
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 227
Behram, surrounded by trees, water, and ver
dure, is a very picturesque spot. I stopped
here to make a draAving of the bas-relief, and it
was noon before 1 remounted my horse. Most
of my guides quitted me at this place, because
great hostility prevails between the Dushmen-
Ziyari and the Bekesh, whose encampments we
were now approaching. Only three of them
ventured to accompany me, in order to carry
back to their chief the usual certificate; but
they left their arms with their comrades, by
way of assuring their neighbours, if found on
their precincts, that they did not come Avith
any hostile intention. I, at the same time,
made myself responsible for their sustaining no
injury. On quitting the rock of Nakshi-Behram the
plain widens, and, after an hour's ride, we
passed a sulphureous spring on the right side
of the road near the mountains. At a quarter
before two, p.m., Ave passed near the ruins of
Nobendjan, formerly a flourishing city, at Avhich
Timur halted before he laid siege to Kal'eh
q 2
228 TRAVELS IN
Sefid (white castle). Nobendjan was built by
Shapur, destroyed by Abu Said Kazruni, rebuilt
by the Ja'uli Atabeg of Luri Buzurg (Lur
the Greater), to be again ruined.* Nothing
now remains of it but heaps of stones and
hillocks scattered over the plain ; — an eloquent
commentary on the instability of human things,
but wasted on the desert. Near these ruins is
the source of a small stream which discharges
itself into that of Behram.
At the distance of a quarter of an hour's
march from the ruins of Nobendjan is the
fort of Nurabad, built in the plain and flanked
by four bastions. On every side of it are the
reed-built huts and tents of the Mamaseni
belonging to the tribe of Bekesh, whose chief
is Murad-Khan. To the right of Nurabad
there is a small Imam-Zadeh (sepulchre of a
* See " Collection Orientale Histoire des Mongols, par
Reschid-ed-din," translated by M. Quatremere, note to
page 383, extracted from the author of " Nozhat-al-
Koloub," who mentions, among other things, that the
inhabitants of Nevbindjan are intelligent and have some
tendency to virtue.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 229
saint), which has iron doors, and, on an emi
nence to the left, the remains of Old Nurabad.
The Sahrai Behram (plain of Behram) may
be about three farsangs long from east to
west, and two farsangs broad. Two farsangs
or thereabouts, to the north-east, are the ruins of
Kal'eh Sefid, so frequently mentioned by Per
sian poets and historians. The hill on which
the citadel is built is completely isolated. It
has a broad base, perhaps a farsang and a-half
in diameter, and does not become steep till
near its summit, where it presents an abrupt
rampart, and its crest is said to be only acces
sible by one path. Being anxious to reach
Fahliyan, I was not willing to go four farsangs
(upwards of fifteen miles) out of my way to
visit Kal'eh Sefid, which has already been
described by Mr. Macdonald Kinneir.* My
* " Kela Sufeed," says Kinneir, " which is seventy
miles from Shirauz, is a high hill, nearly perpendicular
on all sides, and accessible only by three narrow pathways"
(I was told there is only one path,) " known to the tribe
of Mahmusunee, the hereditary lords of this impregnable
castle. From the bottom to the summit, by the road we
230 TRAVELS IN
new guides consisted of the eldest son of
Murad-Khan, the chief of the Bekesh tribe,
then absent, of Sherif-Khan, a lad ten years
old, but much respected by his clan, as being
the son of the famous Veli-Khan, the late
celebrated robber among the Mamaseni, and
of several other young men, well armed, on
fine prancing horses, and who appeared to
be not a little proud that they belonged to
the Bekesh tribe. Vanity, pride, and ambition,
lurk at the bottom of most of our actions.
ascended, the distance is three miles, and it is possible to
ride till within about five hundred yards of the top, when
it is necessary to dismount, and scramble on foot over the
rocks. The only fortifications of this extraordinary place
are a line of huge stones, ranged in regular order,
round the edges of the precipices. Each of these is wedged
beneath by another of smaller dimensions, which, when
removed, the large one is hurled in an instant from the
top to the bottom, sweeping before it, with irresistible
force, everything that tends to interrupt its course. The
Kela Sufeed commands the high road to Shirauz. Its
summit is about four miles in circumference, covered with
verdure, and watered by upwards of forty springs." (See
" Geographical Memoir of the Persian Empire." p. 73.)
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 231
But Avhat had my Bekesh friends to boast
of? Why they Avere, or Avhat is more, they
thought themselves, stronger, and therefore
better than their neighbours. The weaker
submitted to their oppressions, and they defied
their equals. But what deeds of valour had
they achieved? Why they plundered on the
highways, nor were the by-paths secure from
their attacks. And yet they were proud of
belonging to the tribe of the Bekesh, for it
had gained some celebrity under the notorious
freebooter, Veli-Khan, whose daring deeds
had been commemorated in song as examples
to follow, and who had raised his clan to
that dizzy pinnacle from whence they looked
down on their neighbours with contempt, and
on themselves Avith complacency. Poor,
wretched mortality ! how perverse are thy
Avays, when left to walk in the evil imagi
nations of thine own heart !
They showed off their skill in horseman
ship, and would have wished to impress me
with the belief that they were good marks-
232 TRAVELS IN
men ; but as ill luck would have it, they
regularly missed their aim.
From Nurabad the road passes nortfrwards,
first through the plain, and then along the
heights, Avhich separate the Sahrai-Behram from
Sha'b-bevan. The thickets of box on the plain afford
shelter to wild boars, pheasants, and the turaj.
This bird is smaller than the pheasant, and is
black, with white spots. Its meat is as tender
as that of the pheasant, and of a superior
flavour. I have found these birds in the
Valley of Gurgan, in Turcomania, and in the
Russian province of Karabagh, as Avell as in
Kabardah, to the north of the great chain of
Caucasus. At half-past two, p.m., having reached the
culminating point of the mountain, I looked
down upon the beautiful valley which dis
closes itself beneath, Avatered by a riA^er, and
enamelled Avith flowers. I did not expect to
find so many in bloom in the month of
January. To the north two ranges of hills
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 233
rise in the form of an amphitheatre ; the fore
most bend towards the east, and almost touch
Kal'eh Sefid, being separated from it only by
the defile, through which the river Sheker-ab,
or Ab-Shur, coming from Ardekan, forces its
way, Avhile the more distant and snow-covered
hills pass behind Kal'eh Sefid, and afterwards
unite with Pir-i-Zen. At the height of Mune-
nahl they turn abruptly to the east, in the
direction of Shiraz.
While descending into the valley, my sense
of smell was agreeably affected by the perfume
of the narcissus, spread like a AArhite carpet
over the field, for the space of many miles.
AU our party pushed into this rich parterre
up to their horses' girths, to enjoy the fragrance
as much as possible. For my own part, I felt
at first some scruples at thus treading down
these beautiful and delicate productions of
nature ; but I ended by doing as the others
did, so easy is it to yield to a seductive ex
ample. This is not an exaggerated description
of the charms of Sha'b-bevan, which is said by
234 TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABiSTAN.
the Arabian and Persian poets to be one of the
four terrestrial paradises.
This valley is interspersed with cultivated
fields, which produce cotton, rice, barley, and
wheat ; but Avherever the ground is left fallow,
the narcissus resumes its empire, and seems to
have fixed on Sha'b-bevan, and on the plains
of Behbehan, as its favourite places of abode.
We followed the valley in a N.N.W. di
rection, and at a quarter before four, p.m.,
reached Fahliyan, situated at the northern base
of the connecting range of hills Avhich we had
crossed in coming from Nurabad. We made
this day between seven and eight farsangs, in
a northerly direction.
CHAPTER X.
Description of Fahliyan. — Cultivation of the soil. — Taxa
tion. — Visit an Imam-Zadeh. — Description of the plain
of Fahliyan. — Extract from M. Quatremere on Sha'b-
bevan. — Remarks thereon. — Enter the territory of the
Rustemi Mamaseni. — Course of the river Ab-Shiir, or
Sheker-ab. — The valley of Ser-ab-Siyah. — Rencontre
with the Rustemi Chief. — Unlucky display of horse
manship. — Pass the Ab-Shiir, and enter the Khogilu
territory.. — Reception at Basht by Allah-Kerim-Khan,
Chief of the Bovi tribe. — General character of the Eiyat
Chiefs. — Resume my journey. — Travelling Iliyats. —
Karavanserai of Daghun-Bezum. — Pass the night under
arms. — Cross the rivers of Shem-si-Arab and Kheirabod.
— Hindian. — Arrive at Behbehan.
Fahliyan is a little paltry town, of at most
sixty or seventy houses. It is, nevertheless,
enclosed by extensive Avails, now in ruins, from
which it is evident that it was formerly not quite
so insignificant. In the time of the Sefeviyeh
dynasty it had 5,000 inhabitants, a mosque,
and four public baths; at least such was the
236 TRAVELS IN
information I received from my officious host,
who was very anxious that I should not judge
of Fahliyan as it is in its present fallen state,
but as it was in the days of its prosperity. The
district of Fahliyan once extended from Mune-
nahl on the south to Basht on the north-west,
and from Ardekan on the east and north-east
to Khisht on the south-west. The Mamaseni
have by degrees made themselves masters of
almost all the arable land formerly possessed
by the inhabitants of Fahliyan, who complain
bitterly of the exactions to Avhich they are
continually subjected. The toAvn is supplied
with water by a canal running along the hills
from the snow-capped chain beyond Kal'eh
Sefid, for a distance, perhaps, of four farsangs
(fourteen miles). The water of the Ab-Shur
being, as its name implies, brackish, it can
only be used for irrigating the fields. The soil
is here A'ery fertile, and Avater abundant ; but
hands are wanting for the cultiAation of the
land. The fields, artificially irrigated (a process
described by the Persian Avord, Feryab), yield
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 237
from twenty-five to forty for one in the winter
crops : the proportion is loAver in the lands
called de'im, or bakhs, i.e., fields watered only
by rain and deAv, and not artificially irrigated.
Rice, which is sown, yields less than that which
is planted, the crop, in good years, being in
proportion to the seed as 150 to one. Sesamum
(kunjud) is also cultivated here, and returns
100 for one.
Fahliyan is surrounded by fine palm-trees,
and has a fort, in ruins, on the summit of a
small hill. As a lofty and precipitous mountain
rises close behind it, the inhabitants of the
town receive only the rays of the morning
sun, and are the rest of the day in shade.*
* By not paying due attention to the position of Fahliyan
I was led into a mistaken notion that the heats there in
summer must be intolerable, owing to the refraction of
the sun's rays from the mountain which overhangs the
town. See my notes on a journey through the Mamaseni
Khogilu and Bakhtiyar countries, in vol. xiii. of the
" Royal Geographical Society of London," for the year
1843, p. 80.
238 TRAVELS IN
The duties paid by Fahliyan to the Governor
of the province of Fars do not exceed 1,000
tomans (about 480?.).
I gathered most of my information from
Mirza-Abu'l Kasim, governor of the toAvn, and
from his younger brother, both of whom,
with several Mullahs, came to see me as
soon as I was quartered in the house of the
chief. On the 23d, having been informed that there
were some ancient inscriptions lately discovered
in the neighbourhood, I went to see them,
accompanied by the brother of Mirza-Abui
Kasim. Our route lay to the north-east, and
after fording the Ab-Shur, we reached, at the
end of an hour's ride, the Imam-Zadeh of Shah-
Abdullah, where I found nothing but some
fragments of white stone with a few Cufic
inscriptions, although my guide, as well as the
guardian of the place, Avas very desirous that I
should give my corroborative evidence as to the
sanctity of the spot, probably calculating on
the profits they might reap from the credulity
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 239
of the ignorant devotees who would come in
pilgrimage to the shrine of the new saint.
This Imam-Zadeh stands near an isolated hill
called Kal'eh-Siyah (black castle), the counter
part of Kal'eh-Sefid (white castle).
Having mounted again at eight, a.m., I
crossed some well-cultivated fields in a W. by
W.N.W. direction.
At nine, a.m., I passed the ruins of Chehar-
Basar, a town one farsang north of Fahliyan.
Farther on is the Tepeh, or hillock of Senjar-
Muhammed Beluj, on which the chief so named
made a stand against Nadir-Shah,* for which
piece of temerity, on the return of that con
queror from Bagdad, he forfeited his head.
Before you leave the plain of Fahliyan, which
is a continuation of the valley of Sha'b-Bevan,
Ave shall quote the passage of M. de Quatremere,
inserted in his notes on the history of the
* " This Muhammed Khan-Baloochy took up the cause of
Tamasp-Shah, whom Nadir had destituted; but he was
defeated, with his 30,000 Beloochis, by Nadir, in Fars, and
executed." (See Sir H. Jones Bridges' preliminary matter
to the history of the Kajars.)
240 TRAVELS IN
Mogols, by Reshid-ed-Din, in which the cele
brated French author gives us an interesting
account of Sha'b-Bevan and Nobendjan from
Arab and Persian sources: —
" L'Auteur du Nozhat-el-Koloub " says the
author (MS. Pers. 139, page 660), " apres
avoir parle du Kalai-Sefid ou Kalai-Esfid-diz,
ajoute :
" Le Vallon de Bawan que l'on compte parmi
les lieux de plaisance les plus celebres qui
existent au monde, est une vallee situee entre
deux montagnes. Elle a trois farsangs de lon
gueur, et une et demie de largeur. Tout cet
espace est couvert d'arbres qui produisent toutes
especes de fruits. L'air y est extremement pur
et tempere. On y voit un grand nombre de
villages. Au milieu de la vallee coule une
grande riviere. Les montagnes qui entourent
ce terrain ont presque toute l'annee, leur sommet
couvert de neige. Partout les arbres sont si
press6s que les rayons du soleil ne sauraient pene-
trer jusqu' a terre. On y trouve de tous cotes
des sources nombreuses, des eaux limpides.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 241
Du territoire de Newbindjan dependent plu-
sieurs lieux situes les uns en plaine d'autres sur
des montagnes ; Kalai-Sefid est a une farsang de
cette ville. Le territoire de Newbindjan offre
une quantite immense de gibier. Le meme
Geographe ajoute que de Shiraz a Newbindjan
la distance est de vingt-cinq farsangs, et de
Newbindjan a Arradjan de trente-trois farsangs.
" L'Auteur du Lexique Geographique Arabe,
(p. 665,) parlant de la ville de Newbindjan qu'il
place dans le district de Schapour evalue a vingt-
six farsangs la distance de cette ville a Aradjan.
" Nous apprenons par un passage du Kemal-
Ebn-Athir, (torn iii. fol 181,) que la tempera
ture de ce lieu etait extremement chaude et
fort malsaine. Mirkhond rapporte, (iv. partie
fol. 147,) que les habitants du vallon de BaAvan,
avaient pris les armes contre le Khan mongol
Melik-Aschref, et qui s'etant refugies dans une
caverne, le Prince fit allumer a l'entree de cette
ouverture un feu immense afin d'etouffer ceux
qui etaient renfermes, &c."#
* See Collection Oriental*.
VOL. I. R
242 . TRAVELS IN
The extent given to the valley of Sha'b-Bevan
coincides with the distances as laid down on the
map of my route ; the length of the valley from
the foot of Kal'eh-Sefid on the east, to the entry
into that of Ser-abi-Siyah on the west, not ex
ceeding three farsangs, whilst its width in the
broadest part of the valley near Fahliyan is not
more than one and a-half farsang.
Sha'b-Bevan abounds in water, and the Ab-
Shur, a considerable stream, Aoavs through the
Avhole length of this valley, the waters of which
contribute to the fertility of its rich soil. The
snowy heights of the Ardekan mountains are
seen towering above the secondary range of hills
to the north and east of Fahliyan, but the
ridge Avhich separates the valley of Sha'b-Bevan
from Nobendjan to the south, was not covered
Avith siioav in the month of January. Neither-
did I find there that quantity of trees, of which
the Arab geographer speaks as preventing the
rays of the sun from penetrating through : on the
contrary, I found that there were none, or very
few. But this is not surprising, nor is it the
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 243
only instance where groves have disappeared
in Persia Avith the annihilation or diminution
of the inhabitants. Arrian, in his history of
the expedition of Alexander, speaks of the
shady groves Avhich encompassed the tomb of
Cyrus, and if Meshedi Madri Soleyman repre
sents the mausoleum of the Persian King, of
which there appears to be little doubt,* there
is not one single tree left, nor any to be seen
in the whole plain of Murgab. In Europe,
* Description of the tomb of Cyrus in Buchon's French
translation of Arrian : —
" Une des choses qui affecta le plus Alexandre, fut la
violation du tombeau de Cyrus, qu'on avait forcd et
depouille. — C'est au centre des jardins royaux de Pasa-
gardes que s'elevait ce tombeau entoure de hois touffus,
d'eaux vives et de gazons epuis ; c'etait un edifice dont la
base, assise carrement sur de grandes pierres, soutenait une
youte sous la quelle on entrait avec peine par une tres petite
porte. On y conservait le corps de Cyrus dans une arche
d'or massif couvert des plus riches tissus, de l'art babylonien,
de tapis de pourpre, du manteau royal, de la partie inferieux
de l'habillement des Medes, de robes de diverses couleurs,
de pourpre et d'hyacinte, de colliers, de cimeterres, de
bracelets, de pendants en pierreries et en or. On y voyait
aussi une table, l'arche funeraire occupait le centre. Des
R 2
244 TRAVELS IN
forests disappear with the progress of civiliza
tion and the increase of population. It is not
so in Persia.
But to resume our journey. At ten o'clock,
a.m., the hills appeared close to the road, which
here forms the boundary between the district of
Fahliyan and the territories of the Mamaseni
of the tribe of Rustem. The river Ab-Shiir
had remained behind us, running in a south
west direction. The Ab-Shur, or Sheker-ab,
rises in the snoAvy^ mountains of Ardekan to
the east, and north-east of Kal'eh Sefid, and
passes through the valley of Sha'b-Bevan, wind
ing from east to west. It then forces its way
degres interieurs conduisaient a une cellule occupee par les
mages dont la famille avait conserve depuis la mort de Cyrus,
le privilege de garder son corps.
"Le roi leur fournissait tous les jours un mouton, et une
certaine quantite de farine et de vin, et tous les mois un
cheval qu'ils sacrifiaient sur le tombeau. On y lisait cette
inscription en caracteres persans.
" Mortel, je suis Cyrus, fils de Cambyse ; j'ai fonde
l'Empire des Perses et commande a l'Asie ; ne m'envie
point ce tombeau." (Liv. vi. c. viii.)
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 245
through the hills to the south- Avest of Fahliyan,
and having joined the river of Behram, crosses
the wild tract called Mohur, and discharges its
waters into the Persian Gulf, at, I believe,
Bender-Rig.* The Ab-shur is not fordable everywhere ;
and the ruins of a bridge over it are still to
be seen near Kal'eh-Siyah. Its water, as has
been already mentioned, is brackish.
At ten, a.m., we entered the valley of Ser-
Abi-Siyah, (Black water head,) lying between
two parallel chains of hills. At first it is
well cultivated; but further on it is covered
with high grass, and becomes a mere swamp,
which abounds in game. Many springs here
burst forth from the ground and the rocks.
There are roads along the base of the hills on
either side of the valley. I chose that on the
left, as being the shortest; but when the
brother of Khan-Ali-Khan, chief of the Rus
temi, met us, (about eleven, a.m.,) he per-
* Perhaps the Rhogonis of Nearchus (Arrian's Indica,
vol. xxxix. p. 355, Vincent's Voyage of Nearchus, p. 370).
246 TRAVELS IN
suaded me to cross over to the other side,
pretending that the road on the right was the
better of the two. Probably he expected to
meet his brother on that side. Khan-Ali-Khan
soon made his appearance, accompanied by a
croAvd of men on horseback, all Avell armed
and mounted. This parade was intended, no
doubt, to convince the Frengi of the import
ance of the chief, and of the strength of his
tribe. The Persians are great braggarts.
After the usual salutations, we alighted.
My travelling carpet was spread on the ground,
near a small imam-zadeh, and a cold fowl Avith
pillau set before me. This simple fare did
not tempt the Mamaseni chief, as he sat
opposite to me, surrounded by his numerous
retinue; but there Avas one thing on Avhich he
fixed his longing eye, and that was, a bottle
of red Shiraz Avine. I oavii I felt very reluctant
to part with it, for it Avas the last, and I had
a long journey to perform before I could expect
to obtain a fresh supply; at all events, not
before reaching Isfahan ; nor could I reckon
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 247
on such good wine, as the bottle before me
was of the best hulari* While these selfish
ideas were revolving in my mind, probably no
less egotistical feelings prompted my neighbour
to stretch out his hand and lay hold of the
bottle, adding, that he wished to drink to my
good health. "Bo Salumeti shuma, Sahib" —
(To your good health, Sir). Thus he went on,
quaffing one glass after another with the same
good wishes, until the whole had disappeared.
I hinted once, while the work of devastation
was going on, that the wine was very strong,
and might, perhaps, affect his head. That, he
said, was its best recommendation. When we
rose to mount our horses, I found my pre
diction correct, for Khan-Ali-Khan soon began
to roll in his saddle. He had previously in
sisted that I should stop a few days with
him, and seemed rather piqued when I
* A mountainous district near Shiraz, with fine vine
yards, from which the choicest Persian wine is prepared,
both red and white. This wine has much body, and re
sembles the strong Cape wines, and is fit to be exported.
248 TRAVELS IN
declined the offer. His adherents and my
friends of Fahilyan laboured hard to make
me understand that the Khan was not a man
to be refused; a truth they probably knew to
their cost, as I had already heard at Shiraz,
that Khan-Ali-Khan bears no good character,
and rules over that part of the country with
a despotic sway. I told them I should feel
very sorry to give offence to any one, much
less to the Khan who had kindly invited me
to be his guest ; but I had settled in my
mind to proceed that night to Basht, a fort
in the Koghilu country, and thither I would
go. This reply did not satisfy the chief, who
would not give up the point. When, how
ever, the fumes of the Shiraz Avine had taken
possession of his brain, his ideas took a new
turn, or Avhat is more likely, the former ones
became bewildered.
We crossed many springs bursting out almost
under our feet, and soon afterwards augmenting
the volume of the neighbouring lakes and pools,
Avhich appear to have no outlet, and are very
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 249
deep. The reeds and grass Avhich cover these
marshes are said to be the hiding-places of
many hons, Avild boars, and buffaloes, as well
as the cover for vast quantities of game and
all sorts of water-fowl.
When we entered upon more open and
level ground the Rustemi showed off their
feats of horsemanship ; the Chief's son, a
little boy of nine years old, joining the rest.
But unfortunately the big horse he was mounted
on starting with the others for a race, gave so
great a jerk that it lifted him from the
saddle, and throwing him over the back of
the animal, brought him down to the ground.
His Lala (or tutor) sprang forward to his
assistance and picked him up. The boy was
much bruised, and bled from the nose, but
happily no limb was fractured, and after a
short time he was replaced on his horse. The
father seemed more -displeased with the fall,
than anxious about the state of the child,
who seemed very much inclined to cry, but
durst not. Another similar accident befell
250 TRAVELS IN
one of his men, who, in full career, tumbled
with his horse, and came with his head
against a sharp stone. It was some time
before the poor man could be brought to his
senses, and the cut in his head was no trifling
one. These tAvo instances prove that if the
Rustemi are daring, they are by no means
skilful horsemen.
Before we separated, Khan-Ali-Khan showed
me an imam-zadeh near the road, beside which
there was a grave-stone, bearing a Cufic in
scription ; a proof that this tract was for
merly under Arab sway. On quitting him, I
forded the river Shir, or Abi-Sha-ab, one of
the streams mentioned by Sherif-ed-din, in his
account of Timur's march.* It comes from a
valley lying to the north, Avhere the Rustemi
Chief encamps, and takes a south-Avest direction,
leaving on the left the large village of Ser-Abi-
Siyah, with a fort on a hill, where Ali-Veis-
Khan, the supreme Chief of the Rustemi or-
* " Histoire de Timur-bec, " par Petit de la Croix,
vol. ii. p. 186.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 251
dinarily resides : when I passed he was at
Shiraz. The Ab-Shir is the boundary between the
Mamaseni and the Koghilu; but there is also
a strip of neutral ground between them. Half
an hour further on, still in a westerly direction,
we came to a Kutel, or "Steep Hill;" after
Avhich, bending a little towards W.S.W., we
crossed the dry bed of a stream, entered the
julgheh or valley of Basht, and, at a quarter
before six, p.m., reached Basht. We were met,
at some distance from the fort, by Allah-Kerim-
Khan, who was then acting as Chief of the Bovi,
a tribe of the Khogilu, during the absence of
his father, Sherif-Khan.
Basht resembles the castles of the old feudal
barons in Europe. It consists of the Chief's
fort, enclosed by high walls, and flanked with
turrets. All around are groups of the habita
tions of his vassals, who live under the shadow
of his protection, and furnish him with the
means of resisting his enemies.
I found my host, Allah-Kerim-Khan, very
252 TRAVELS IN
hospitable and communicative. When he came
with his son to pay me a visit, the latter re
mained standing at the door, with his right
arm resting on the hilt of his hanjar (dagger),
stuck in his girdle, and it was not until I re
quested his father to give him leave to take a
seat, that the young man changed his position.
Such is the external respect observed in Persia
by children towards their parents ; and this
custom is of great antiquity.
Allah-Kerim-Khan entertained me till a late
hour with the history of the implacable feuds
by which the mountaineers are divided, and
the intestine wars to Avhich these feuds give
rise. I may remark, by the Avay, that in my fre
quent intercourse with the migratory hordes in
Persia, I generally found their character marked
by much frankness, mixed up Avith a great deal
of cunning. These qualities may appear, at
first sight, incompatible Avith each other, but
this extraordinary combination of opposite ele
ments may be accounted for, partly by the
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 253
simple and patriarchal life which these Chiefs
lead in the bosom of their families, and partly
by the necessity which they are under of being
constantly on their guard, in order to defeat
the machinations of their adversaries, or from
their own inclination to encroach upon their
neighbours' property.
24th. On quitting Basht, at a quarter before
eight in the morning, Ave first mounted a very
steep hill, which commands it on the south, and
then descended, by a very stony road, into a
valley full of oaks, wild almond-trees in blossom,
and the Kuhnar,* a tree peculiar to the south
of Persia. Our road took us a westerly direc
tion, and passed between two chains of high
mountains. We were met on the way by a migratory
horde of Ihyats, Avho had broken up their
encampment in one place, and were travelling
* The fruit of this tree, something like that of the
service (sorbus), is yellow when ripe, slightly acid, and
pleasant to the taste. When unripe, it is green and
red.
254 TRAVELS IN
with their flocks and herds to other pastures.
The sheep and goats generally open the
march, led by young shepherds, the flower
and strength of the tribe, with their faithful
companions the shaggy dogs. Next follow the
donkeys and oxen of a small species, laden
with the black canvass and poles of the Uiyat
tents, with bags thrown over their backs, filled
with various articles for home consumption, or
bestrode by the more aged and weaker portion
of the community. The poultry are likewise
placed on the backs of the loaded cattle, with
a leg or a wing tied to the packsaddle, and
spend their time in trying to keep their balance
on the seat as well as they can.
Men, women, and children accompany or fol-
Ioav the caravan on foot, sometimes in groups,
at others walking separately, each bearing some
household furniture or kitchen utensil. The
little kids and lambkins born on the way, are
placed in baskets, and carried by the Iliyats,
or stowed away in hampers, and thrown across
the packsaddles. Such as are lame, or with
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 255
young, have their separate conductors, who
gently encourage them onward, or stop and
feed them when they feel tired. What a true
picture of this trait in Ihyat life is expressed
in the following passage of Isaiah xl. 11, pro
phesying of our Saviour : — " He shall feed his
flock like a shepherd : he shall gather the
lambs with his arm, and carry them in his
bosom, and shall gently lead those that are
with young."
The women are seen with their spinning-
Avheels on their shoulders, some twisting woollen
yarn, others bent forward, and advancing slowly
with their children astride on their backs, clasp
ing their little arms around their mother's neck,
and twisting their little legs round her waist :
the smaller ones are usually tied up in a bag
behind the back, while infant babies, together
with their clumsy cradles, are hoisted on the
heads or shoulders of their fond mothers, sinking
under the weight.
A mother's devoted affection to her darling
offspring is the same in every latitude ; the
256 TRAVELS IN
same are her anxieties ; but the bodily fatigues
a poor Uiyat mother has to undergo, are, per
haps, greater than those felt by women in any
other condition of life.
The distances that some of these Uiyat tribes
have to perform in their annual migrations are
really wonderful.
From the southern shores of Fars, the
Kashgoi* arrive in spring, on the grazing
grounds of Isfahan, where they are met by
the Avandering Bakhtiyari from their Avarm
pastures of Arabistan, near the head of the
Persian Gulf. At the approach of AAinter
both the tribes return to their respective
Germesirs. After travelling two hours we again came
to an acclivity, when Ave had surmounted which
Ave reached, by a long descent at eleven, a.m.,
the dry bed of a river coming from the snow
capped mountains of Huma to the right of the
* A Turkish tribe, about 12,000 families strong, and
whose chief is the H-Khani of Fars, one of the most
influential personages in that province.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 257
road and west of Basht. At the time when
the snows melt, the river is full of water, and
flows on Avith a southerly course till it issues
from the valley, Avhen it turns to the south
east, loses itself in the Mohur, or, perhaps,
unites with the Ab-Shir, and thus reaches the
Persian Gulf. For some time we followed its
course, and, on leaving the valley, turned to
the west, and maintained that direction till
we reached the station of Daghtimbezun, about
eight farsangs (twenty-seven miles) from Basht.
We arrived there at half-past three, p.m., having
rested for half-an-hour by the way.
Throughout the whole tract which Ave had now
crossed there are no habitations, nor, at this time
of the year, is there any water. But it was not
so formerly; for, along the side of the road,
there are the remains of kanats, or under-ground
channels, and, two farsangs before the traveller
reaches Daghtimbezun, he passes the ruins of
a karavanserai, and, further on, there are
the relics of a village. The soil is, in
general, full of pebbles, and it is only at
vol. i. s
258 TRAVELS IN
wide intervals that one meets with fields,
cultivated by the Khogilu who inhabit the hills.
The high mountains to the north are thinly
sprinkled with trees, as is also the valley of
Daghtimbezun, but the chain which stretches
to the south is more barren and lower than the
north line of the hills.
Daghtimbezun is a ruined karavanserai, built
near a spring of Avater, in a perfectly Avild and
desert place. At some distance among the hills
is the Kal'eh-Arti, a fort where the Chief of
the Bo-Rahmet, one of the sub-divisions of the
Khogilu tribe, resides.
Our halting-place not being considered very
secure, on account of the predatory character
of the mountaineers, Ave were advised to keep
watch, having barricaded ourselves as well as we
could, there being no doors to our cells, and
the walls of the karavanserai seeming in a very
dilapidated state.
While I was sitting up writing letters to
my friends late at night, an alarm was given
that some whistling was heard in the direction
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 259
of the mountains. We instantly had recourse
to our arms, but after some time passed in
suspense, seeing all was quiet, each in his
turn snatched a few moments' rest, and we
then started on our journey at three o'clock
in the morning of the 25th. The distance
from Daghtimbezun to Behbehan, is generally
said to be twelve farsangs (forty-five miles),
but I doubt whether it be so much.
For the first two farsangs (seven miles) we
passed through the same valley we had fol
lowed on the preceding day, but the mountains
after this close in, and the road leads for
more than a farsang through a very rugged
tract. We next entered a charming valley
shaded by clumps of trees, closed by high
mountains, and watered by the river Shem-si-
Arab,* which winds its course through the
hills in a south-west direction.
Having left the ruins of a karavanserai on
the right, we crossed the river and entered
* Perhaps the Brizana of Nearchus. (See Vincent,
p. 373.) S 2
260 TRAVELS IN
the plain of Lishter. It was in these meadows
that a part of the stud of the former Ferman-
Ferma (Governor) of Fars, was kept, on account
of the abundance of grass with which they are
covered in the spring. It was likewise here
that Timtir encamped, according to his historian
Sheref-ed-din, in the translation of whose work
this place is called Lashter.
After leaving Daghumbezun, until eight, a.m.,
our course was almost always west, but at
Lishter we turned to the north-west. At half-
past eight we left a square tower in ruins on
the left, as well as an Imam-Zadeh near the
mountains; and at eleven, a.m., we arrived by
a winding road on the banks of a large river,
after having crossed two inconsiderable ones.
The river which I have just named issues
from the snoAvy range in an E.N.E. direction.
It has a broad and pretty deep bed, and is
called (the river of) Kheir-abad, from a large
village, now in ruins, on the opposite bank.
It is the Abi-Shirin (sweet water) mentioned in
Timiir's route, perhaps the Arosis of the an-
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 261
cients, and the river of Hindian* of the
present day. From the Kheir-abad river to
Behbehan, is a distance of three farsangs
(eleven miles); the first in a north-west di
rection, across a very rugged country, abounding
in selenite, or foliated gypsum ; the two last,
westward, over a level well cultivated country.
* Also, but erroneously, called the Tab.
CHAPTER XL
Boundary of the Mamaseni encampment. — Observations of
M. de Quatremere on the country of Shulistan. — The
Mamaseni are of Lur origin. — Conjectures respecting the
Mamaceni of Quintus Curtius. — Lohr, or £wr-asp, one
of the ancient kings of Persia. — Luur, a name of one
of the great-grandsons of the Patriarch Abraham.—
Divisions of the Mamaseni : 1. Rustemi ; 2. Bekesh ;
3. Dushmen-Ziyari ; 4. Jo'i. — Population. — The Mama
seni are great robbers. — History of Veli-Khan Bekesh. —
Reduction of some of their strongholds. — Khogilu tribes.
¦ — Boundary of their encampments.- — Are likewise of Lur
extraction.— Note on the Lek, Liir, and Kurd races. —
The Governor of Behbehan Chief of the Khogilu. —
Divisions of the Khogilu : 1. Bovi ; 2. Borahmed ;
3. Nui ; 4. Tenghebi ; 5. Bakhmei. — The latter a wilder
and more savage tribe than the rest. — A few observa
tions on their customs and manners. — Other tribes of
Behbehan.— Taxation of Behbehan. — Arrears. — Critical
position of the Chief Mirza Kumo in respect to the Governor
of Fars. — Preparations for resistance. — Offer my advice
to Mirza Kumo. — Sad fate which befalls him and his
family.
We have described in the foregoing chapters,
the country inhabited by the Mamaseni, which
TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 263
may be comprised approximatively within the
following limits : — The direct dependencies of
Fars, to the east; Kazerun, to the south; the
Khogilu tribes, and the hilly country descending
towards the Persian Gulf, to the west ; and the
chain of the Ardekan mountains, to the north.
The tract of land occupied by the Mamaseni
bears the name of Shulistan.
This is the country concerning which M. de
Quatremere, in his translation of Reschid-ed-
din's " History of the Mogols in Persia," gives
in a few words an interesting account, borrowed
from Oriental writers. We beg leave to insert
the passage, as it will throw some light on the
former history of the people of whose country
we are now treating : —
" L'auteur du Mesalek Alabsar," says M. de
Quatremere, " passant en revue les nations no-
mades de la Perse s'exprime en ces termes." —
MSS. Arabe de la Bibl. Royale, No. 583,
fol. 109, recto.
" Les Schouls ont les memes moeurs que les
Scheban Kareh et s'eloignent peu de ces der-
264 TRAVELS IN
niers, sous le rapport de l'intelligence, si ce
n'est que l'on voit quelquefois, entre ces deux
peuples, des meurtres rester sans vengeance, et
les traites violes. On trouve chez eux de la
generosite et de la munificence ; aussi les
pauvres affluent dans leurs pays et sont recus
dans les villages, ou on les traite avec la plus
cordiale hospitalite, et on leur temoigne une
parfaite confiance.
" Les Schouls habitent dans une contree qui
de leur nom avait pris celle de Shoulistan.*
(Tarikhi Guzideh MSS. pers. de Brieux, No. 9,
* Mr. Price, in his " Chronological Retrospect, or
Memoirs of the Principal Events of Muhammedan History,''
vol. ii. p. 430, translates the word Schoulistan by region
of sands. The author was probably led into this error by
an incorrect pronunciation of Schulistdn. The word Chidis-
tan, or Tchulistdn, derived from Chul, certainly denotes an
unfrequented region, or waste, destitute of fresh water ; but
this cannot be said of the country inhabited by the Mama
seni, which (with the exception of the Mohur, in the direc
tion of the Persian Gulf) is a very fertile land, well watered
by many mountain streams. It is, therefore, more likely
that Schulistan was thus named from the Schuls, who
formerly occupied it, as we learn from the Tarikhi Guzideh.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 265
fol. 181, r. Mirkhond, &c.) Nous apprenons
de I'auteur du Tarikhi Guzideh (fol. 180) que
vers l'an 300 de I'hegire la moitie du Loristan
etait soumise aux Schouls; mais vers l'an 500
environ, 500 families de Curdes etant arrives
de la montagne de Sumak, situee dans la
Syrie fixerent leur demeure dans le Loristan.
Hesarasp, Atabek de cette contree, profitant
du renfort que lui offraient ses etrangers,
chassa les restes des Schouls et demeura maitre
du pays : ensuite il fit la conquete du Schoulis-
tan. Les Schouls vaincus se retirerent dans la
province de Fars."*
In another passage of the same work, the
historian of the Mogols mentions that at the
siege of Mousel (Mossoul) by the troops of
Htilaku, the place was defended by a con
siderable force consisting of Curds, Turkomans,
and Schuls.^
I am not aware whether the Mamaseni are
"' See in "Collection Orientale, Histoire des Mogols, par
Reschid-ed-din," tr. by Quatremere, the note at p. 380.
f Idem, p. 381.
266 TRAVELS IN
the descendants or not of the Schuls, as I
learned at Fahliyan that they were only trans
planted into Shulistan at the time, and by
the orders of Nadir Shah. They belong, how
ever, to the Ltir family, as do likewise their
neighbours the Khogilu and the Bakhtiyari,
who like themselves occupy the valleys of the
great chain of Zagros, which separates Irak-
Ajam from the provinces bordering on the
Persian Gulf. All these tribes are the de
scendants of the old Zend race.
Quintus Curtius speaks of a Mamaceni people
who for a time valiantly resisted Alexander's
arms in Bactriana, near Maracanda.* Although
the distance between this people and the
Mamaseni now under notice be consider
able, still it is in no way improbable that
at some remote period they belonged to the
same race : for Avhen we consider that the
stream of migration of the Zend race flowed
from north-east to south- Avest, i. e., from Central
Asia to the coast of the Persian Gulf, it is
* See Quintus Curtius, lib. vii. chap. vi.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 267
not unlikely that a part of the Mamaseni
followed the general current, while the original
stem remained on its former pastures, or in
its walled towns. We find, in like manner,
that the Arti, or Ardi, another branch of the
ancient Persians, were scattered along the
same line of communication between their
primitive cradle in Central Asia, and the land
of Pars, or Persis, where afterwards they
settled, and to Avhich they gave their name.
Perhaps even the Avord Lur, the generic name
of the race to which the Mamaseni belong,
may be discerned in Lur-asp or Lohr-asp, the
name of one of their ancient kings, supposed
to have lived about the time of Zoroaster, and
to whom the erection of the fire-temple of
Arejan, near Behbehan, is attributed. The
termination asp (a horse in Persian) being often
found to be affixed to the name of such nations
whose force consisted of cavalry,* as, for
instance, the Ari-asp, the Hesar-asp, &c.
* Rhode translates Lohr-asp, Herr der Pferde, Lord of
horses, probably chief of cavalry.
268
TRAVELS IN
Josephus mentions among the posterity of
Abraham a person by the name of Luur, who,
together with Asur, were the great grandsons
of that patriarch. (History of the Jews, book i.
chap, vi.)
I throw out these ideas merely as conjectural,
for they would require a more profound inves
tigation before the question could be definitively
settled. The Mamaseni of the present day consist of
four great divisions, each of which is subdivided
into lesser clans. The folloAving are the prin
cipal sections of the tribe : —
1. The Rustemi;
2. The Bekesh ;
3. The Dushmen Ziyari;
4. The Joi.
The Rustemi, Avhose chiefs are Ali-Veis-Khan
and Khan-Ali-Khan, are esteemed the bravest
and the most powerful. They occupy the
valley of Ser-abi-Siyah and the adjacent hilly
country. A subdivision of this tribe, Avhich
goes by the name of Muhammed Salehi,
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 269
occupies the pastures of Diyar in the plain of
Behram. Next to the Rustemi in power are the
Bekesh, with their chief, Murad-Khan. Their
strong fort is Nurabad, in Sahrai-Behram,
while another division of the tribe encamps
at Tengi-Shaptir. The mountain fort of Kal'eh-
Sefid is likewise in their possession.
Between the Rustemi and the Bekesh there
exists much jealousy and hostility, as they are
nearly equal in force; the former being rather
stronger, which the latter cannot easily brook
after having been for many successive years
the most powerful clan among the Mamaseni
when Veli-Khan ruled over the whole tribe.
3. The Dushmen-Ziyari, since the execution
of their chief, Muhammed Riza-Khan, in 1840,
and the internal broils Avhich ensued among the
petty chiefs, have been greatly weakened, and
have lost their weight in the tribe. A portion
of the Dushmen-Ziyari has sought the pro
tection of the Rustemi, and thus augmented the
strength of the latter. Their encampments
270 TRAVELS IN
are in Ardekan, near Shapur, and at Cheno
shejan. 4. The Joi, under the direction of their chief,
Fet'h-ullah-Khan, encamp near Kal'eh-Sefid,
and in the upper valley of Abshur.
The number of families, or khanehvdr, of
the Mamaseni are said to exceed 4,000,
reckoning about 1,000 families for each divi
sion.* The tax levied on them by the Governor
of Fars amounts to 7,000 tomans (about
2,800/.). During the latter years of the reign
of Fet'h-'Ali-Shah, when the province of Fars
was administered by his son, Husein-'Ali-Mirza,
the Mamaseni were much addicted to pillage,
and had become the scourge of the country,
robbing the caravans. The leader, Avho thus
gained the greatest celebrity among them,
was Veli-Khan, of the Bekesh tribe. From
being nothing more than a pish-khidmet, or
* I must have committed an oversight in stating in the
paper on the Mamaseni, published in the Journal of the
Royal Geographical Society, vol. xiii., that each clan had
no more than one hundred families.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 271
valet de chambre of the Prince Ferman-Ferma
(Viceroy) of Fars, he soon rose to be the chief
of the Mamaseni. Zeki-Khan Null,* Vizier
of the Prince, was the first who promoted this
man's influence among his countrymen, by
intrusting him with some power over them,
which the wily pish-khidmet well knew how to
turn to his own account. He organized a gang
of robbers, and, placing himself at their head,
commenced robbing the caravans. Each suc
cessful attack, by spreading abroad his repu
tation, increased the number of his adherents ;
and the feeble authorities of Fars, unable to
restrain his predatory inclination, endeavoured
to give another direction to his pursuits, by
ministering food to his vanity. An union was
concerted between his daughter and one of the
sons of the Ferman-Ferma, Timur-Mirza,-f-
who then nominally ruled over Behbehan and
* Derived from the word Nur (light), a hilly district in
the province of Mazanderan.
f The same prince who, some years back, visited Eng
land.
272 TRAVELS IN
the country of Shulistan. But this match
did not effect the object intended ; Veli-Khan
remained as unruly as before, erected the fort
of Nurabad, and continued to exercise his
trade of plundering with greater impunity
than ever, especially during the period of mis
rule and disorder, which, in the southern
provinces of Persia, followed the death of the
old king. The communication between Bu-
Shehr and Shiraz was in consequence almost
cut off, until Manuchehr-Khan, the Moetemid-
Daulet Avas named Governor of Fars. Affairs
then assumed a different aspect, and Veli-
Khan, on the faith of promises held out to
him that he had nothing to fear, was induced
to leave Kal'eh-Sefid (Avhither he had pre
viously retired), and to proceed to Shiraz.
From thence he was alloAved to accompany
Muhammed Taghi-Khan-Kazvini, and aid him
in collecting the taxes from the Mamaseni.
While on this expedition, Muhammed Taghi-
Khan one night at a banquet, heated with
wine, so far forgot himself as to use some
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 273
irreverent expressions with respect to Veli-
Khan's daughter, the Avife of Timtir-Mirza.
This so enraged her brother, Baghir-Khan,
that he rose and called on his countrymen to
avenge the honour of their clan. He was
instantly obeyed; and the greater part of
Muhammed Taghi-Khan's detachment Avas put
to the sword, Avhilst himself was hurried,
handcuffed, to Khisht, situated further in the
mountains. The whole clan noAV rose up in
arms. On the approach of the Governor of Fars
to quell the revolt, Veli-Khan fled to Galedar,
near the Persian Gulf, while Baghir-Khan
retired into the forts of Gul-i-Gulab, built one
above the other on a steep rock, with a com
munication between. Soon after the siege was
laid to them, the inhabitants surrendered
Baghir-Khan and his father's family into the
hands of the Moetemid. It is reported that
Veli-Khan Avas informed of the approach of his
pursuers at the time he Avas making free
Avith some Shiraz wine, the property of an
VOL. I. T
274 TRAVELS IN
English officer in the Shah's service, and which
the folloAvers of the Mamaseni chief had appro
priated for their master's use. In the hurry of
escape, and in the state of intoxication he then
was, Veli-Khan made, it seems, too great an
effort to vault into the saddle, and fell over
to the other side, where he Avas immediately
picked up and secured by his pursuers, who had
just arrived at that moment.
These two robbers, Baghir and Veli-Khan,
have been ever since imprisoned in the citadel
of Tabriz ; but their popularity in Fars is so
great, that their names, deeds and exploits, are
perpetuated in songs, and pass from mouth to
mouth among the Iliyats.
Since their capture, and the reduction of the
mountain forts, the poAver of the Mamaseni
has been somewhat broken, and the authorities
of Fars have contrived to set up governors to
rule over them. However, the latter are seldom
safe among this tribe, and are obliged to be
continually on their guard against secret in
trigues or open assaults, although hostages from
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 275
each clan are kept at Shiraz, to answer for the
good conduct of the tribe. At the time I
passed through their country, the Mamaseni
had no particular chief to keep them together.
Sardar Hassan-Khan had been recently named
to that post, but was still at Shiraz, negotiating
with the hostage chiefs for his good reception
among their kinsmen in Shulistan.
The Khogilu Tribes. — On leaving the country
of the Mamaseni, we enter the territory of the
Khogilu, a tribe as wild and as lawless as
their neighbours to the east, and as the Bakh-
tiyar clans who occupy the mountainous tracts
to the west.
The Khogilu, together with the two above-
mentioned tribes, belong to the great family of
the Lurs,* and speak a rude jargon of the
* The other great divisions are the Leks and Kurds.
I do not think the origin of these three tribes has ever yet
been satisfactorily ascertained. They are neither of the
Arab nor of Turkish descent, and may therefore be
looked upon as the aborigines, or at least the oldest settlers
of Iran. They seem always to have occupied the hilly
country, which runs from south-east to north-west of Persia,
T 2
276 TRAVELS IN
Persian language, or, more probably, the cor
rupted old tongue of Fars — the Ftirsi or Kadim.
and served to constitute the kernel of the Zend race. The
different dialects spoken by these mountaineers are said
to contain a number of words of the old Zend language ;
and up to the present day there is a clan among the Leks
which bears the name of Zend, and gave, in the last
century, a ruler to Persia, in the person of Kerim-Khan-
Vakil. Ancient historians and geographers speak of the
mountainous country of the Kardushians and Gordyans, —
the present Kurdistan. Strabo, who mentions that the
Cardaces were addicted to thieving, adds, that their name
is derived from the word Car da, which, in their language,
meant valiant, warlike. (Liv. xv., c. iii.) The independent
mountaineers of Kurdistan, who boast that they never have
been a conquered people, well deserve the above epithets ;
whilst their predatory habits give them as good a right to
the title of thieves. Ferdausi mentions that the Kurds are
the descendants of those young men who were saved from
the voracity of the serpents of the tyrant Zohak, which
were fed on human brains. (See in the Shah-Namah'-Zohak,
st. 39.) Whatever credit may be attached to this tradition,
it shows, at all events, the antiquity of the Kurdish race.
The secluded vale amidst the mountains of Behbehan,
where I discovered some very ancient bas-reliefs, with
inscriptions in unknown characters, bears the name of Sau-
lek, in which the last syllable, lek, may have some con
nexion with the tribe of that name. Perhaps even the
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 277
Mirza Kumo, the Governor of Behbehan,
exercises his sway over this tribe, although the
Khogilu are under the immediate control of
their own petty chieftains. Recently, however,
several of these clans have entirely thrown off
the authority of Mirza Kumo, and have sought
the protection of the neighbouring powerful
chiefs. The Khogilu are divided into the following
tribes : —
First, the Bovi, who muster upwards of 4,000
families, and occupy Bosht, to the west of the
Mamaseni. Their chief, Sherif-Khan, was
blinded by the order of the late Husein
Lesghi of Daghestan,* in the Caucasus, who go by the
appellation of Leksi in Persia and in Georgia, may have
belonged originally to the same section of the Zend race.
I shall have to refer to the Lurs more than once in the
course of my narrative.
* The Poles, whose true name is Lakh, are said to have
descended into the plains from the Caucase mountains,
together with the Chekhs, the inhabitants of Bohemia.
278 TRAVELS IN
'Ali-Mirza, former Ferman Ferma of Fars,
and resides now at Shiraz, whilst his son Allah-
Kerim-Khan, manages the affairs of his tribe at
Bosht, and may more properly be looked upon
as the real head of the Bovi. I learned from
the latter that the ancestors of his family had
settled here from the Cha'b country, and that
in later years after a fruitless opposition to the
power of Nadir-Shah, the Bovi were trans
planted into Khorasan Avith their chief, Hashem-
Khan, who was afterwards named governor, and
ended, as it but too often happens in the east,
by being deprived of his sight by order of that
sovereign. After the death of Nadir-Shah the
son of Hashem-Khan found means, during the
unsettled state in Avhich the country then was,
to return with his followers to Fars.
The present chief, Allah-Kerim-Khan, in
order to ward off the danger to Avhich the
vicinity of the Mamaseni on the one side, and
the troublesome neighbourhood of his imme
diate Lord, Mirza Kiimo on the other, Avould
expose him, as well as to ensure the permanence
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 279
of his own power, has prudently contracted
family alliances with both parties, by marrying
the daughter of the Governor of Behbehan and
the sister of the Mamaseni chief of the Rustim
tribe. Polygamy in this instance is an advan
tage which the eastern politicians possess over
European diplomatists.
Secondly, The Borahmed, amounting to 3,000
families, formed formerly a strong clan, which,
however, was afterwards divided when Abdullah-
Khan with his party went over to the Rustim
branch of the Mamaseni, while Ali-Muhammed-
Khan with his followers remained faithful to the
Governor of Behbehan. The latter occupy
Aru, and the mountainous country north of the
karavanserai of Daghumbezun.
Thirdly, The Nui, about 2,000 families, are
reckoned the best horsemen among the Khogilu,
as the Rustemi pass for the best cavalry among
the Mamaseni. They inhabit the hilly country
to the north-east of Behbehan.
The Tenghebi, or Taibi, amount to 3,000 fami
lies, and occupy the mountainous regions of Bars
280 TRAVELS IN
and Dinarun, where their chief, Muhammed-
Ali-Khan, resides in the castle of Kal'eh-Mulah.
Fifthly, The Bakhmei, are reckoned the
Avildest and most unruly tribe among the moun
taineers of Fars, although their number is said
not to exceed 2,000 families, perhaps rather un
derrated. Formerly they recognised, but only nominally,
the authority of Mirza Kumo, for this Chief was
always obliged to send an armed force into their
fastnesses to gather his annual tribute from
them. At present they refuse altogether to
acknowledge him, and have gone over to Mu
hammed Taghi Khan, the powerful Bakhtiyar
Chief. As an instance of their spirit of independence
and slight regard for the authority even of the
Shah, I Avas told that Avhen a collector of the
revenues was endeavouring one day to impress
on the mind of a Bakhmei, that it Avas the
tribute due to the Shah, his liege lord, that
was required of him, the man replied that he
only yielded to force, but that he kneAA' of no
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 281
Shah of Persia, and should only believe in his
existence, when he could actually have him on
the palm of his hand.
At the time of my passing through the
Bakhmei country, there existed a bloody
feud among them. Khalil-Khan, of the Mah-
medi clan, had killed his nephew, the son of
Zeki-Khan, of the Akhmedieh clan, and both
parties were in arms. I afterwards met this
Khalil-Khan at the camp of the Bakhtiyar
Chief, and his sinister appearance expressed
sufficiently his sanguinary character. The
Bakhmei occupy the mountains north-west of
Behbehan, at Tenghi-Saulek, (where some
ancient sculptures and inscriptions are found,
of which I shall hereafter give an account,)
and extend as far as the plain of Petek.
All these tribes are spread over the moun
tainous range, and the intervening valleys, on
the southern face of the great chain, which
stretches from Hamadan and Zohab towards
Fars, from north-west to south-east.
My rapid progress through their country did
282
TRAVELS IN
not admit of my minutely investigating their
manners, customs, and religious observances,
which would have been a most interesting
study, as they probably may be the descend
ants of the ancient Mardi, Paraetaci, and Uxii,
mentioned in Alexander's expedition from .Susa
to Persepolis.
I met with few of their tents on the tract
I followed, as they were encamped in the more
secluded valleys of the mountains, and therefore
my observations can be but scanty and super
ficial. Though they outAvardly profess Muhammedan-
ism, they have, I believe, like the generality
of the Avandering tribes of Persia, a very faint
idea of religion ; their whole faith consisting
in some superstitious rites, and a traditional
veneration for their Piri, or holy men, to whose
shrines they go on pilgrimage. Among the
offerings which they bring Avith them, in order
to the attainment of some worldly object, are
little tin lamps, Avhich they string on ropes
over the tomb of their saints, or coloured rags
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 283
Avhich their Avomen attach to some consecrated
trees. I have seen trees of this description in
Persia, Avith rags on them in greater profusion
than leaves.
As to their external appearance, I met with
feAver tall men among the Khogilu than among
the Mamaseni ; but they are a very hardy race,
and undoubtedly owe much of their vigour and
muscular frame to their active pursuits, the
simplicity of their diet, and the bracing air
which they inhale in their mountain fast
nesses. Their chief occupation consists in tending
their flocks of sheep and goats, and they
resemble, in this respect, all the wandering
tribes of Persia. Their usual food is the
acorn, which is first bruised between two
stones, and made into flour, by being dried
in the sun. The women bake cakes of this
flour. The paste is likewise eaten raw, and
is considered very nourishing. That this sort
of food is nothing new to man, we learn from
the accurate Herodotus, who says, that the
284 TRAVELS IN
Lacedemonians, wishing to take possession of
Arcadia, first consulted the oracle of Delphi,
and the Pythea pronounced to them the follow
ing answer ; —
" Askest thou Arcadia of me 1 Thou askest
much ; nor Avill I grant it thee. In Arcadia
dwell many Avarriors, fed on acorns, Avho will
repel thee."*
Independently of the Khogilu, there are
several other tribes, who inhabit these moun
tains, such as the Jarumi, the Yusufi, and
upwards of a thousand families directly under
the control of Mirza Kumo, occupying the
plain of Behbehan, and settled in villages or
dispersed in tents. These are the Juma- Buzurg,
the Afshars, and some Arab settlers. -f\
* See Herodotus, by Laurent, vol. i., verse 66,
page 31.
f The names of the Turkish tribes are, the Karabaghi,
Agbaghi, Begdeli, Golebi, and Sheiri, speaking the Turkish
language ; while the Afshars, although of the same origin,
have forgotten their mother tongue. The Doveti, Ghest i
Mayaz-kuli, Barash, Milosi, and Juleki, are of the Lur race,
and speak the Lurish dialect.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 285
Mirza Kunio himself is of Arab origin. His
family migrated from Mecca, and was sup
posed to be a branch of the holy family of
the Arab Prophet ; in consequence of which
his adherents maintain that his person is
inviolable, and that to attack him Avould be
a sacrilege, and that the daring offender would
be stricken by the thunder-bolt of heaven.
The inhabitants of the town of Behbehan
are very expert in the preparation and dyeing
of woollen cloth ; but owing to their reluctance
to disclose the secrets of their art, I could glean
no useful information on the subject.
The annual taxation of Behbehan, together
with Shulistan, amounts to from 24,000 to 30,000
tomans (about 12,000/. or 15,000/.). However,
for several years the Governor has found means
to evade payment to the authorities at Shiraz,
so that the arrears are said to amount to nearly
100,000 tomans. This state of things has
placed Mirza Kiimo in no pleasant predica
ment in respect to the Governor of Fars, as
the latter has often threatened to compel him
286 TRAVELS IN
by force of arms to pay, if he persisted in
Avithholding any longer what was due to the
CroAvn. Mirza Kiimo still hoped that he could
avert the storm gathering around him, by
sending a feAV presents and some money as a
Pesh-kesh* for the Prince and his Visir at
Shiraz. These presents were to consist of
some fine Arab horses and 200 rolls of the
celebrated mumia, a sort of mineral pitch,
greatly esteemed in the East for its healing
qualities. This substance, which is quite hard
and fashioned into a cylindrical form, is
wrapped in silver or gold paper (as chocolate
is sometimes prepared at the confectioners).
Meanwhile Mirza Kumo was busily occupied
in fortifying his town in case of emergency,
notwithstanding the accredited notion among
the people, that in consequence of his descent
from the Prophet, no Mussulman dare attack
him with impunity. Be this as it may, I found
* A present an inferior offers to a superior in Persia,
and somewhat like the reliefs which vassals had to pay to
their Suzerain lords in Europe during the middle ages.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 287
Mirza Kumo very much elated at the works
which Avere going on, and he asked me, as
we were looking out of a window of the
castle at some Avorkmen occupied in widening
the ditch before the rampart, whether I did
not think his town was impregnable ] I
answered, that if he had such enemies as the
wild Bakhtiyari to contend with, he might
hope to oppose them with success : but if
he wished seriously to know my opinion, I
could not refrain from imparting to him my
honest belief, that neither the walls of his
castle, nor its external ramparts, were able to
hold out against any regular troops with a
battering artillery. I added, that as a guest
who had partaken of his bread and salt, and
consequently one Avho wished him well, I
earnestly warned him not to risk the experiment,
as the experience of it might probably cost
him dear. My host did not heed my advice,
and I am sorry to add that my forebodings
proved but too true. Some time after my
return to Teheran, news was received that
288
TRAVELS IN
the forces sent against this chief by the Go
vernor of Fars had taken possession of Behbe
han, and put many of the inhabitants to the
sword. Mirza Kumo had fled into the Cha'b country,
but his wives and grown up daughters were
distributed among the soldiery of Mansur
Khan's victorious troops, with the exception
of one of the daughters, who, to escape the
degradation of falling into the hands of such an
enemy, had thrown herself into a deep well,
inlaid with stone, and Avas dashed to pieces.
This is not a solitary instance of the despe
rate resolution of the Uiyat Avomen to destroy
their life, rather than to become the Aictims
of the brutal violence of the victors.
When the forts of Gul-i-Gulab, occupied by
the Mamaseni rebels, had surrendered to the
troops of the Shah, many of the Mamaseni
women — who had been sent there for safety — ¦
abhorring the idea of falling into the hands
of the conquerors, threw themselves from the
top of the fort down the precipitous rocks.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 289
I believe several died on the spot, while
others miraculously escaped death, though
not without broken limbs. But thanks to the
humane and timely assistance of the skilful
surgeon of the British detachment, Dr. Griffith,
a Welshman, who accompanied the Persian ex
pedition, many recovered and were allowed to
return to their clan in peace.
I am ignorant what may be the fate of the
unfortunate Mirza Kumo, but it is highly pro
bable that he is still a fugitive, wandering
among the Arab tribes, and seeking shelter
from tent to tent.
vol. i. u
CHAPTER XII.
Description of Behbehan. — Limits. — Former and present
possessions of Behbehan. — Soil. — Produce. — Climate.' —
Winter and summer residences of the Governor. — Ruins of
Arrejan. — Remains of two splendid bridges over the
river Kurdistan. — Fire-temple of Ardjan. — Volcanic
mountain. — Mumia. — Arrejan probably the former em
porium of trade between India and the interior of
Persia. — The ports of Mahruban and Hindiyan. — The
name of Arrejan attached to the province in the tenth
century. — Town of Cobad. — Different cities of Ardea. —
The ancient town of the Ardi, natives of Ardekan. — Identity
of Ardekan and Paraatacene, &c. — Alexander penetrates
into those mountains. — Caves of the Mardi. — Asylum
Persarum. — Hedypnes of Pliny. — Ver-effshue the abode
of bliss of the Zend-Avesta. — Annual migrations of the
Persepolitan porcupine. — Notes.
The province of Fars was formerly divided
into five districts or circles, called kureh,
which were, Istakhr, Darabjird, Shapur, Ar
dashir, and Cobad.* At present it consists of
three principal parts, namely :
* See Jehan Numa.
TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 291
1. Fars Proper (Persis Proper) ;
2. Laristan, near the Persian Gulf; and,
3. Behbehan or the country of the Khogilu.
This latter represents the kureh of Cobad.
The territory of Behbehan, now under the
sway of Mirza Kumo, is limited to the north
by the great belt of mountains which separates
Irak- Aj em from the southern provinces of
Persia; the northern and north-eastern shores
of the Persian Gulf form its boundary to the
south. Ram-Hormuz and the Cha'b country
lie to the west, while Shulistan separates
Behbehan on the east from the direct depend
encies of Fars.
With reference to ethnography, I may
remark, that Behbehan is surrounded by the
following tribes: — To the east and south-east
the Mamaseni ; to the north and north-west the
Bakhtiyari ; and to the west and south-west the
Cha'b-Arabs. Independently of the mountainous regions to
the north and north-east of the plain of
Behbehan, which is occupied, as we have seen
u 2
292 TRAVELS IN
in the preceding chapter, by the Khogilu tribes,
the districts of Liravi and Zeitun, near
the Persian Gulf, together with the fortresses
of Gul-i-Gulab,* all come under the control
of the Governor of Behbehan.
The mountain fort of Mungasht, and the town
Avith the district of Ram-Hormuz, were likevvise
held formerly by Mirza Kumo, but are now
in the hands of Muhammed Taghi-Khan, the
Bakhtiyar Chief.
The soil of Behbehan is very productive,
being Avatered by several noble streams, such
as the Shemsi-Arab, the Kheirabad, and the
Kurdistan, together Avith the lesser rivers
floAving from the Ardekan mountains, and
* These forts, which have a communication with one
another, are reckoned as strong and as difficult of access as
Kal'eh-Sefid; they were, notwithstanding, captured in 1835
by the Moetemid-Daulet ; and the turbulent Mamaseni chiefs
who had sought refuge there, were forced to surrender.
The strongholds of Gul-i-Gulab are about five farsangs
from Behbehan ; and the river Kheir-abad (the Abi-
Shirin or Hindiyan river) flows close to the foot of the
rock on which they are built, one fort above the other.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 293
it might be a very rich agricultural district if
it were more densely peopled, and, above all,
if there were more security and stability in
the administration.
On the spacious plain surrounding the town
of Behbehan the inhabitants grow corn, which
yields twenty-four fold, Avhile, nearer the Gulf,
cotton and rice are the staple production.
Among the fruit-trees the palm takes the pre
cedence, although lemon, orange, and pome
granates, are likewise cultivated with success.*
To give an idea of the mildness of the climate,
I need only mention, that in the month of
January the meadows near the town were
sprinkled with the narcissus, which, from a
distance, appeared like a white sheet extending
several miles in circumference, perfuming the
air with the most delicious fragrance. Mothers
Avith their children in their arms, and baskets
containing provisions in their hands, resort for
the whole day to the meadows, where the
* I do not recollect to have seen any lemon or orange
trees at Behbehan, but I was told there were.
294 TRAVELS IN
narcissusses grow, returning home only at the
close of the evening, with immense nosegays
of these flowers.
The olive-tree, if I was rightly informed,
grows on the banks of the Hindiyan river, from
whence the town of Zeitun is supposed to have
derived its name, as Zeitun in Persian means an
olive ;* although Ibn Batuta, the Arab traveller
of the fourteenth century, derives it from Fl-
Zaidain, or the town of the two Sayids, that of
Zaid Rjn-Thabet, and Zaid Ibn-Arkaw, the
companions of the Arab prophet, j-
I have failed to ascertain to whom Behbehan
* Ibn-Haiikal says, that " Arrgan produced dates and
olives in great plenty." (See Oriental Geography, attributed
to the above-quoted author, by Sir W. Ouseley, p. 104.)
We likewise find in M. d'Herbelot, at the article Arragian,
the following : — " Arragian ville de la province de Khuzis
tan ou Susiane, que quelques Geographes attribuent pourtant
a celle de Fars ou Perse proprement dite. Elle n'est eloig-
nee de la mer que d'une seule journee et son territoire est
tres fertile en palmiers et oliviers, &c." (Bibliotheque
Orientale, p. 122.)
f See Ihn Batuta's Travels, translated by E. Samuel Lee.
London, 1829, 4to., p. 43.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 295
owes its foundation. It may be of Sasanian
origin, but it seems to have acquired note only
after the destruction of Arrejan and Cobad.
That it existed so far back as the fourteenth
century can be traced by the circumstance of
Sheref-ed-din 'Ali of Yezd mentioning that
Timur encamped near Behbehan on his way to
Kal'eh-Sefid. At present it is the winter residence of the
governor, whose summer encampment is up the
valley of the Kurdistan river at a place called
Deh-Dasht, eight farsangs from Behbehan.
The plain of Behbehan, as well as the
valleys in the mountains, present traces of
considerable towns, which prove that this part
of Persia must have been, in some former
period of its history, in a state much more
flourishing than that which it now can lay
claim to.
Half way between Behbehan and the river
Kurdistan, are ruins scattered over a consider
able extent of ground. These remains consist
of kiln-bumt bricks, white mortar, and more
296 TRAVELS IN
or less elevated artificial mounds of earth. It
was among them, I believe, that Sir John
Macdonald Kinnier found a stone slab, with an
arrow-headed inscription — a sure sign of re
mote antiquity. Nearer the water, on both
sides of the river, are buildings in a better
state of preservation, which appear to be of
a more recent date, though still perhaps of
Sasanian origin, and probably coeval with the
stupendous remains of two bridges, of which
the Arab writers speak in high terms. On
the left bank, but further inland, I met with
some Muhammedan tombs, with arched domes
over them, open to all the four sides, in the
Mussulman fashion. This is the true site of
Arrejan, whereas the ruins above-mentioned
appear to belong to a more ancient town, of
which I shall have to speak hereafter.
The ruins of Arrejan consist of stone and
brick buildings, scattered on the lofty banks
of the Kurdistan river, mostly on the left
shore ; but likewise, on the declivities of the
bank, and partly along the narrow strip of
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 297
land which separates the bed of the river from
its southern or left embankment. With the
exception of the bridges, there are no remains
of large edifices ; the houses seem to have
possessed but one story, Avith vaulted roofs.
Both sides of the town Avere united by two
bridges, a short distance one from the other.*
They are of stone and brick, and, to judge
from what remains, they must have been built
on a grand scale. Some of the platforms of
the piers on which the arches rested are still
standing on the right and left banks of the
river, while nearly all the rest have been
carried away by the force of the current, which
is excessively rapid, the waters curling in eddies
as they are swiftly borne down the stream.
The bridges are about one farsang from the
narrow passage in the mountains from whence
* In Edrisi's " Itinerary from Shiraz to Khuzistan,," we
read, according to M. Jaubert's French version, — " On
parvient ensuite au pont de Bekiar, construit a la distance
d'un jet de fleche de Redjan." (See " Recueil de Voyages
et de Memoires," &c, vol. v., p. 408.)
298 TRAVELS IN
the Kurdistan river issues. They are now
called Puli-Bagum, or Begum, and Puli-
Dokhter (the bridges of the Lady and the
Damsel). The accompanying sketch will give an idea
of the former. In respect to the latter, there
is a massive building, which formed part of
it, on the left shore, two stories high, which
brought the bridge on a level with the high
banks, so that the passage along it led over
the second floor. In each floor there were
two spacious apartments.
The following passage of Ibn Batuta, the
Arab traveller of the fourteenth century,
unquestionably refers to one of these bridges,
in the comparison he establishes between this
and another bridge on the northern coast of
Africa : —
" In this place" (Constantina), says the
author, " is a bridge, to Avhich there is no
equal in the countries of Islamism for its
wonderful construction. It consists of one arch
of 150 paces in extent, between two piers, if
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 299
we except that at the gates of Arjan, upon the
borders of Khuzistan, which is referred to El-
Dailimi, the physician of El-Hejaj."*
In Edrisi we have a more complete descrip
tion of one of the bridges at Arrejan :
" Near the gate of Redjan," says this writer,
" towards Khouzistan, is to be seen over the
river Tab a bridge called Deilemi, the sur
name of the physician of Hedjadj-ben-Yousouf.
This bridge has only one arch supported by
two piles, distant eighty paces one from another.
The height of this arch is pretty nearly equal
to its length."|
* See " Ibn Batuta's Travels," translated by the Rev.
Mr. Lee, page 4. It would seem, from the concluding lines,
that one of the bridges at Arrejan was erected since the
Mussulman sway in Persia.
¦f " Pres de la porte de Redjan," says Edrisi, " du cote
du Khouzistan ou voit sur la riviere de Tab, un pont appele
Deilemi, surnom du medicin de Hedjadj-ben-Yousouf. Ce
pont n'a qu' une arche soutenue par deux piles, distantes
entre elles de quatre-vingts pas ; la hauteur de cette arche
est a peu pres egale a sa longueur." (See " Geographie
d' Edrisi, " par M. Amadee Joubert, in the " Recueil de
Voyages, et de Memoires," &c, torn. v. p. 399, 3me climat.
6me section.)
300
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Yakiiti attributes the foundation of Arrejan,
which he places in the third climate, to the
Sasanian King Cobad, the son of Firtiz, and
the father of Nushirvan, therefore about the
end of the fifth and beginning of the sixth
centuries of the Christian era. We find, how
ever, the name of Ardjan at a much earlier
period of history, among the principal fire-
temples of the Persians.
"' The fire-temple Gedjender was built by
Suavoucb, and that of Ardjan (or Erdjan) in
Fars was erected towards the end of the reign
of Lorasb."*
In addition to the fact, that both the town
and the fire-temple bearing the same name
happened to be in Fars, there is another
circumstance which induces me to believe that
if Ardjan, the fire-temple, was not situated on
the spot where the town of Arrejan was built,
* " Le pyr£e Gedjender fut bati par Suavouch, et celui
d' Ardjan (ou d'Erdjan) dans le Fars fut eleve sur la fin
da regne de Lorasb." (" Receuil de Memoires et de
Voyages," &c.)
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 301
it must have been at least in the neighbour
hood. Near the straits of Tengi-Teko, from whence
the Kurdistan river issues into the plain
above the ruins of Arrejan, and not far from
the Aillage of Peshker, is a fissure high up in
the mountains, out of which runs a black
substance resembling pitch, which is gathered
by the natives, and is much esteemed in
Persia for its healing qualities, especially for
bruises and fractures. It is called Mumid,
and sometimes Mumia-i-Nai, from the name
of the village, Nai-deh, which lies at the foot
of these mountains. The fissure was doubt
less originally produced by a volcano now
extinct. At the time Shiraz was visited by
an earthquake (I believe twenty-five or thirty
years ago) Behbehan likewise felt its effects ;
the rent of the hill from Avhence the
mumia oozed out sparingly, Avas widened,
and since that time it runs out more abund
antly, but the quality is said to be deterio
rated.
302 TRAVELS IN
We learn from Arab authority,* that the
mountain yielding this bitumen or naphtha
was a volcano, and as the fire of nature was
an object of pecuHar veneration among the
ancient Parsi, and that of naphtha springs in
particular (Azer-i-Noush), the fire-temple of
Ardjan may possibly have been erected in the
vicinity of the mountains just described. This,
however, proceeds on the supposition that a
temple wrought by the hand of man was
considered necessary, for it was not customary
among the older disciples of Zerdusht to build
houses for prayer ; they worshipped God on
the high places, and a volcano emitting fire
Avas therefore of all others the fittest temple
to which they turned their eyes in addressing
their prayers to the Deity of Light. This
custom of offering prayers in high places seems
to have been one of the earliest and most
universally extended modes of worship, and
one which had spread the deepest roots among
the nations of the East; for Ave find that the
* See note at the end of the chapter.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 303
Jews, in their frequent backslidings, when
ever they repented of their idolatry, and
returned to the true God, still kept to the
practice of praying in the high places.
From the circumstance that several itineraries,
mentioned by the Arab writers in south-western
Persia, are made to take their departure from
or lead to Arrejan, we are to infer that that
city was of some note; and its geographical
position leads us to the same conclusion. As
there exists a communication between Behbehan
and Isfahan, although a difficult one, across
the mountains, Arrejan may have been the
emporium of the trade carried on between
the Persian Gulf and the interior of' the
country. According to the Arab geographer,
with whom Sir W. Ouseley has made us ac
quainted, Mahrubdn was the port of Arrejan
at the mouth of the Tab, while this latter river
served as the artery of commerce.*
It is likewise not improbable that the
* See the Oriental Geography, translated by Sir W.
Ouseley, p. 11.
304 TRAVELS IN
town of Hindiydn, at the mouth of the Kheir-
abad river (the Abi-Shirin of Timur' s expedi
tion, and perhaps the Arosis of Nearchus),
owes its name, and possibly its very existence,
to the Indian trade with Persia, when the
southern provinces of the kingdom were in a
flourishing state; when the numerous ruins
found in the valleys of the mountains (to
which I shall presently refer) were inhabited
towns; when Kumisheh (where the roads join
from Fars, Behbehan, Khuzistan, and Isfahan),
instead of its present insignificance, must
have been an extensive city, as its ruins
denote; and, lastly, when Isfahan itself could
boast of a greater degree of wealth and
prosperity. The Hindiydn river is navigable from
the sea up to Zeitun, which latter town
is only a day's journey to Behbehan (five
farsangs). These two commercial routes may have been
contemporary and still have existed without
prejudice to each other; the former more
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 305
particularly with Arabia, the latter with
India.* Moreover, it may have been found more
convenient to carry Persian merchandise down
the current of the Tab to Mahruban and the
Persian Gulf, while the productions of India
were imported to Persia by way of Hindiyan
and Zeitun, shortening thereby the navigation
on the Persian Gulf, and avoiding the difficult
ascent up the rapid stream of the Tab.
In the tenth century it appears that the
name of Arrejan was not limited to the town
alone, but was extended to a whole tract of
country, as Ave discover from a passage in De
Guignes, where he treats of the Buid dynasty
of Irak — Ajem,f while in another part the
* A branch of the trade of the Persian Gulf, struck off
to the north-east, near Ram-Hormuz, up the valley of
Tezeng, or the Alai river, and then over the mountains into
Media, by the causeway called Jadehi Atabeg, of which
more hereafter in chapters xvi. and xvii.
f " Le Sultan Roknedoulet Abou-Aly el Hassan etait
maitre de toute la Perse, l'an 365 de l'Hegire (de j.c. 975),
il partagea ses etats entre ses trois enfans : Adhad ed doulet
VOL. I. X
306 TRAVELS IN
same author speaks of Ardgian as the town
Avhere Bahaeddoulet Abounasr, son of Adhad,
likewise of the Buid race, died in 1012 of
our era (403 of the Hejira).
About six miles from Behbehan, in an
easterly direction, inclining to the north, is the
village of Mansurieh, which I was told is built
on the ruins, and with the materials, of the
ancient city of Cobdd, from Avhich formerly this
whole tract of country derived its name, and
formed one of the five circles of Fars.
The city of Cobad owes, probably, its origin
to the Sasanian monarch of that name,* the
same who laid the foundation of Arrejan ; for
Mirkhond, the historian of the Sasanian dynasty,
mentions the predilection of Cobad for erecting
new cities.
abou Schodgia eut la Perse (le Fars), Ardgian et le Kerman,
qu'il joignit aux etats dont il avait herite de Son Oncle
Emaddoulet," &c. (Histoire generale des Huns, &c, par
de Guignes, liv. vi. torn. i. p. 409.) See likewise the note
about Redjan at the end of the chapter.
* See note at end of the chapter.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 307
" Cobad," says that writer, " was fond of
building. He erected many edifices, and laid
the foundations of several toAvns. Among such
as oAve to him their origin, may be reckoned
Berdaa, Candja, &c."*
We have alluded in the foregoing pages to
the ruins of an ancient town, lying between
Behbehan and the river Kurdistan. On looking
at the map of Ptolemy, Ave find that the town
of Ardea, situated on the plain below the
mountains, and near the river Arosis, would
just suit the situation these ruins now occupy;
although the courses of his rivers are in general
very inaccurately laid down.
When we come to treat of the campaign of
* See Mirkhond, translated by the Baron Silvestre de
Sacy, in his " Memoires sur Diverses Antiquites de la
Perse," page 357.
The town of Candja, or Ganja, (from Ganj, treasure,)
bears at present the name of Elizavetopol, and with its
territory forms part of Georgia, to the south of the Caucase
mountains, as well as Berdaa, the ruins of which are seen
near the river Kur. Both are situated in the Russian
dominions.
x 2
308 TRAVELS IN
Timtir to Kal'eh-Sefid, and Alexander's expe
dition to Persepolis, we shall show the proba
bility of the Ardekan mountains, (which lie
to the north-east and east of Behbehan,) repre
senting the country inhabited originally by the
Ardi, or Artoei* the name which Herodotus
gives to the ancient Persians. For the present it
is sufficient to point out the great similarity in the
sound which Ardea bears to the Artoei, together
with the vicinity of this spot to the moun
tainous region of Ardekan, which they inha
bited, in order to create an impression favourable
to the idea that the city of Ardea may have
been one of the chief toAvns of the ancient
Persians. It is rather a curious circumstance that one
of the most ancient cities of Europe, so inti
mately associated Avith the early history of
Rome, and the origin of Avhich is lost in
Grecian mythology — I mean the capital of the
Ilutuli in ancient Latium- — -should likeAvise have
been called Ardea.
* See " Herodotus Polymnia," b. vii. c. i.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 309
Is this similarity of sound to be attributed to
chance alone ? or should not our attention,
awakened by the fact, seek to trace a family
connexion betAveen the natives of Ardea in
Latium, and the Ardi of the East % The coin
cidence is the more striking, as both Ardea and
the Persians appear to have had a common
origin, according to the Greek and Latin
AATiters. Ptolemy, Pliny, and, I believe, Virgil,
mention that Ardea was founded by Danae,
mother of Perseus ; whilst Herodotus (lib. vii. 61),
and Xenophon (Cyrop. lib. i.), inform us that
the Persians derived their name likeAvise from
Perseus (Pars 1*) son of Danae.
The space, it is true, which separates Ardea
* Sir "W. Ouseley has extracted the following passage from
a Persian MSS. the Shiraz-Namah, on the origin of Pars.
" Know that Pars, the son of Pahlav, the son of Sa'm
(or Shem) the son of Noah (on whom be the peace of God ! )
having established himself in Pars, became sovereign of this
country, which derived its name from him ; and the Pahlavi
language, so called after his father Pahlav, became general
in Pars." (See Sir W. Ouseley's Travels in various coun
tries of the East, &c, vol. ii. p. 317).
310 TRAVELS IN
in Italy from Ardea in Pars is immense, and
where are the intervening links to join the
tAvo extremities of the chain"? I do not under
take to solve the difficulty, although I cannot
help observing, that Herodotus makes mention
of a people settled to the north of the Danube,
who Avere dressed in the fashion of the Medes
(or Persians, as both belonged to the Zend
race);* while Strabo speaks of a turbulent
tribe of Ardicei in Dalmatia, near mount
Ardion, who were very troublesome to the
Romans on account of their predatory habits.
(Lib. vii. c. 6.)
The great analogy which comparative phi
lology has found to exist between the Sclavo-
nian (a part of which race extends from the
Black Sea to the head of the Adriatic) and
Latin roots, Avith the ancient Zend language,
might help to point out the direction in which
one of the numerous streams of migration
flowed from the East into Europe.
* AAre know, moreover, on the authority of the same
Herodotus, that the Persians adopted the Median dress.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 311
As we are standing on the ground of con
jectures, we may indulge in a few more specu
lations on the subject. Thus it strikes us that
a connexion might exist between the Ardi and
the Mardi, Avhom Nearchus and others place
between the Uxii and Persis in the mountains
of Paraetacene.
The name of Mardi is said to be derived,
and no doubt very correctly, from the Persian
word mard, signifying a man ; this word is
still used in the same acceptation, and serves
to designate a man of a strong, character, or
a hero. The Persians will say, In mard 'st,
(this is a man,) Avhen they wish to convey the
idea that the individual alluded to is a man
of energy, in contradistinction to Za'ife (the
weak), a word usually applied to women.
We shall leave to those Avho have studied
the ancient and modern languages of the East
the task of tracing the laws of permutation
which the words Ari, Ardi, Mardi, Amardi, have
undergone in the progress of time, and shall
merely allude to a peculiarity of speech pre-
312 TRAVELS IN
valent among the lower classes of Persians,
as we do not recollect to have seen it stated
before. To words of one or tAA^o syllables, having
a definite meaning, the Persians will often add
another word which has none, merely for the
sake of the rhyme, or by way of euphony.
Thus, the word asp, a horse, is invariably
folloAved by masp, with no signification what
ever. In like manner, hurdi murdi, are terms
employed to designate all the trifling but
necessary articles a traveller stows into small
bags, Avhich are flung across the saddle on a
journey, in order to have them always at hand,
while the heavier baggage is sent on before.*
These articles consist, among others, of eatables,
as dried fruit, to beguile the traveller on his
road. Hence, hurdi, may possibly be derived
* Perhaps the obsolete words of scrip and scrippage
may best convey the idea of hurdi-mttrdi. We read in
Shakspeare : —
" Clown. Come, shepherd, let us make an honourable
retreat ; though not with bag and baggage, yet with scrip
and scrippage." — As You Like It. Act iii. scene 2.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 313
from hurden, to eat ; but murdi, in this case, is
a word AAithout any meaning.
The above observations may appear trivial,
the more so as Avords of this description are
not tolerated in genteel Persian society, being
reckoned slang language ; but, as they are in
the mouths of the people, they form part of
the idiom or genius of the language, and, as
such, deserve attention ; for it often happens,
that apparently the most trivial peculiarities,
as Avell in language as in the customs of a
people, give a clue to obscure passages in
ancient authors and lead to interesting disco
veries.* In following up the stream near which
Ardea is situated in Ptolemy's map, we find
* We find in some Zend names, where asp forms a
component part, and is placed at the end of the word,
that the letter m is introduced whenever the first word
terminates with a vowel (probably to avoid the hiatus).
Thus, Ari-»i-asp, dia-m-asp ; whereas the same rule is not
observable in the following words : — Vescht-asp, Lohr-asp,
Porosch-asp, Guersch-asp, hezar-asp, &c. I respectfully
submit these observations to our Zend scholars.
314 TRAVELS IN
another town, which bears the name of Axima.
During my stay at Behbehan, I learned, that
eight farsangs distant from that town, in a
northern direction in the mountains, are traces
of an ancient and very considerable city, in a
pleasant valley, near which the village of Deh-
Dasht is now situated on the river Kurdistan.
Mr. Stoqueler, who crossed the mountains from
Behbehan to Isfahan, makes mention of these
ruins.* The same traveller speaks of the
remains of another town near Sadaat, further
in the mountains, and of numerous caverns
near Tengh Berarah, in the hilly country
between Behbehan and Kumisheh. j-
On turning to Quintus Curtius, Ave find that
Alexander, soon after the capture of Perse
polis, penetrated into a mountainous region,
covered over with snow and ice, and having
ravaged the country of Persia, and reduced
several towns, he came at last into the country
* See Mr. Stoqueler's " Fifteen Months' Pilgrimage,"
&c., vol. ii., page 212.
f See note at the end of the chapter.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 315
of the Mardi, whom he found living with
their families in caves dug in the mountains.*
To any one acquainted with the aspect of
the country about Persepolis, it is evident that
the cold region of which the historian speaks,
as covered with ice and snow, could be no
other than the lofty range of the Ardekan, to
the west and north-west of Persepolis. We
know, moreover, from other authorities, that
the Mardi lived in that direction, in the
mountainous tract between Persis and Susiana,
and were neighbours to the Ux'ii Highlanders.-^
This hilly district, well watered by numerous
springs, interspersed by pasture-ground and
fertile valleys, fine forests, and, in consequence
of its snow-capped mountains, enjoying a much
cooler air than the plains to the south, must
have possessed great attractions for the early
settlers of Iran. When we add to these natural
advantages the fact that this part of the country
has always been the most difficult of access,
* See Q. Curtius, lib. v. chap. vi.
f See Q. Curtius, lib. v. chap. vi.
316 TRAVELS IN
we may perhaps be allowed to suggest the
propriety of seeking here the Asylum Persarum,
into which several of Alexander's su^-ssist,
and the Parthian kings, vainly attempted to
penetrate. The sacred fire of the temple of Ardjan,
happening to be in the neighbourhood, cer
tainly throws a very favourable light on the
subject, and may be considered a Aveighty
argument in support of our conjectures.
If this suggestion have any foundation, then
the river Hedypnes, which, according to Pliny,
took its rise beyond the Asylum Persarum,*
might suit the Kurdistan or Tab river,
although we feel more disposed to identify
it with the Ala'i or Tezeng, as it likewise takes
its rise in the lofty range of Ardekan to the
west of the former river. We shall have to
notice the Tezeng stream as Ave proceed with
our journey.
We shall postpone to a subsequent chapter
* Pliny's Natural History, translated into French by M.
Poinsinet de Sivray, torn, ii., liv. vi., c. 27, p. 803.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 317
the description of the remains of other towns
on the plain of Behbehan, and up the valley
into the Bakhtiyari country, as we proceed
with the narrative of the journey.
But as the subject may appear of some
interest to the antiquary, we beg leave to
trespass on the patience of the reader with
a few other observations before we quit it.
After enumerating the physical advantages
of the highlands of Ardekan, and the lower
country of Behbehan, and noticing the existence
of numerous relics of antiquity with the
sacred fire-temple of Ardjan, Ave came to the
conclusion that this region must have been
a favourite resort of the ancient Persians, nay,
even their sacred place of refuge — Asylum
Persarum. May we not go one step further,
and inquire whether this El-Dorado may not
have formed part of the land of Ver-effshue,
the fourteenth abode of blessedness, sanctified
by Ormuzd, and civilized by Jemshid.* Rhode,
in his critical researches on the sacred books
* Vendidad.
318 TRAVELS IN
of the Zend-people,* and Professor Ritter, in
his classical work on geography,-]- have already
pointed to Persis Proper as the probable site
of Ver-effshue, and to Persepolis as the seat
of the toAvn of Ver. The same conjecture
might be extended to the valleys about
Behbehan, which, in fact, formed part of ancient
Persis. The description of the land of Ver,
is in many respects a faithful picture of the
valleys to the south of the Ardekan moun
tains. J In the Zend texts Ver-effshue is
compared to Behisht, Paradise ; and the Arab
writers give the same appellation to the valley
of Shdb-Bevdn, not far from Behbehan. The
plain of the latter may lay an equal claim
to the same title. Surely the extreme pro
ductiveness of the soil of Behbehan and Shab-
Bevan, the genial warmth and fragrance of
the atmosphere, and, above all, the luxuriant
* Rhode's " Heilige Sage des Zend Volks," &c, p. 76.
t C. Ritter's, " Erdkunde," &c, vol. viii. p. 33.
| See the second fargard of the Vendidad in Kleuker's
Zendavesta.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 319
carpets of the fields, rich with the spon
taneous gifts of Flora in the very depth
of winter, must have attracted, at a very
early period of the world, the attention of
mankind, and induced them to congregate
in those lovely abodes of nature, which the
lively imagination of the East has graced with
the epithet of Behisht, and to which the name
of Ver-effshue, meaning " rich in every bless
ing," was no less applicable.
But this predilection may not have been to
the exclusion of the plains of Persepolis and
Pasargadse, for, independently of the city of
Ver, Jemshid is said to have founded other
towns of various sizes, with a population of
2,000 souls in the greater, 1,200 in the less
extensive, and 600 in the small towns. More
over, although the ancient Persians were taught
by their legislator to live in cities, they cer
tainly did not entirely abandon the pastoral
mode of life, which, indeed, they preserve to
this day; and consequently occupied, in the
same manner as the Iliyats of Fars do at
320 TRAVELS IN
present, the valleys in the mountains, and the
high table land of Merdasht* and Murgab, (on
which Persepolis and Pasargadse are situated,)
during the summer months, and descended at
the approach of winter from the Alpine re
gions, in a direction towards the Persian Gulf.
The same mode of life is in like manner
observed at present by the inhabitants of the
southern shores of the Caspian. The whole
population of Ambl, the former capital of the
low country of Mazanderan, resort in summer to
the highlands of Larijdn, where they disperse
into villages, and only return to their deserted
city when the cold weather obliges them to
quit the mountains.
We glean from history that, at the time
when Persia had attained the zenith of its
power, and spread its sway over Media and
* The very name of Merdasht, which can be construed
into Merd-dasht, or the plain of the Merdi, (or Mardi,)
might lead us to suppose that it was once occupied by that
tribe, to whom we have already alluded, as inhabiting the
highlands of Arkedan, to the west and north-west of Per
sepolis.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 321
Babylon, its great kings still preserved their
roving habits, for each succeeding season found
them established Avith their courts in a different
capital.* These erratic propensities of the Per
sians, founded on the very nature of the country
Avhich they inhabit, are participated in likewise
by the brute creation. A peculiarity of this
nature is observable on the Persepolitan plain.
On visiting the subterranean passages which
branch in various directions under the ruins
of Persepolis, I found, as I have already ob
served, a great number of porcupine bristles,
and the dry manure of that animal heaped in
the long and narrow corridors. In answer to
my inquiries, why no living porcupine was to
be seen, I was informed that these animals
occupy the cool cells of the now deserted
palace of Jemshid, during the heats of sum
mer only, but migrate to the south in thousands
as soon as the cold weather commences ; about
the same time, and nearly in the same direction
* See Brissonius, " De Regno Persarum." Lib. h
§ 67. VOL. I. Y
322 TRAVELS IN
as the Nomads, who drive their flocks of sheep
and goats to the warmer pastures of Jartim and
Laristan tovfards the Persian Gulf. It is not
scarcity of food which prompts the porcupines
to quit their royal abode, because the plain of
Merdasht has numerous villages, and the fields
are ahvays stocked with some sort of grain ; it
is the cold which drives them away, Avhile
instinct directs them to the more genial climate
of the south. I Avas assured that they travel in
considerable bodies, and pick out the shortest
way, traversing hill and dale. Not one porcu
pine remains behind; but Avith the return of
spring and warm Aveather, they resume their
wonted quarters under the Avails of Persepolis.
The numerous flights of bats which line the
interior of the royal tombs, and produce, as
asserted by the natives, the black crust with
Avhich the Avails of those caves are thickly
covered, are seen only during the warm
season, but disappear as soon as the cold
weather sets in. When I visited the tombs in
January, I did not find one bat in them.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 323
NOTES TO CHAPTER XII.
Page 302. — With reference to the mumia, we find in
Yakuti the following, translated by De Guignes : —
" Dans une de ses montagnes (du Fars) est une caverne ou
l'on trouve de l'eau qui est comme une vapeur ; elle sort
des rochers, et on en fait le moummani ou moumiani blanc,
qui est tres bon." (See Notices and Extraits des Manuscrits
de la Bibl. du Roi, torn. ii. p. 422.)
In the " Oriental Geography," translated by Sir W.
Ouseley, is a similar passage : —
" There is in the district of Sumbeil* near the borders
of Pars, a mountain from which fire issues at all times.
At night this fire gives light, and smoke comes forth in
the day time, and the general opinion is, that there
is here a fountain of naphtha, or of pitch, which has taken
fire-t In the 2d vol. of the " Recueil de Voyages et de Me-
moires par une Society de gens de Lettres," p. 256, we read
that : —
" Le mont Bardjan (probably instead of Ardjan) d'ou.
decoule cette resine precieuse que les Persons appellent
moumia, et qui guerit les fractures avec une celerite
* Sumbeil is a district (adds the author of this Arab
work) which, in the time of Muhammed ben Wasel, was
reckoned among the territories of Pars; at present it belongs
to the province of Khuzistan.
| " Oriental Geography," p. 77.
Y 2
324 TRAVELS IN
miraculeuse." ('Ajaib-oul Mahloukat d' Ahmed de Thous
dans ses melanges — article moumia et dans le Djehan
Nouma, p. 268.)
May not this mumia be the gum mentioned by Dios-
corid (iii. 99), which was obtained from Persia, of singularly
healing qualities, and hence named Sarcocolla ? (See
Mr. St. John's interesting work, entitled, " History of
the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece," vol. iii,,
page 406.)
The author of these pages has himself experienced the
efficacy of the Persian mumia, on applying it to a bruised
side occasioned by a fall down some rocky cliffs. A piece
of the hard black substance of which it consists is mixed
with melted sheep's fat, and, while hot, the bruised part of
the body is well rubbed with it.
Sir William Ouseley learned that the mummy gathered
in the district of Darabjird was reckoned as the only
genuine, all the rest being more or less adulterated, and he
derives the mum-i-ayi from words implying " the wax of a
village called Ayi." (See his " Travels," vol. ii., page 117,
and the Appendix, No. V., page 475.)
To show how high this balsam was estimated by the
Persians, the French traveller, Count Ferrieres Sauveboeuf,
says, that the nwmmiayi was usually among the choicest
presents made by the Persian sovereigns to their neigh
bouring allies. Thus, Ali Murad Khan sent about one
ounce of this mummy, contained in a golden box, to the
Empress of Russia. (See " Memoires Ilistoriques Politiques
et Geographiques des Voyages," par le Comte Ferrieres
Sauveboeuf, torn, iii., page 33. Paris, 1790.)
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 325
Page 314. — Extract from M. Stoqueler's "Itinerary from
Behbehan to Kumisheh, over the Mountains," &c, vol. ii.,
page 212, &c. :—
"From Behbehan to Tung-ta-Koh, six hours.] A fortress
on the summit of a mountain pass, occupied by a few
individuals. A few date plantations, and patches of
cultivation on the table land in the neighbourhood and
in the dale beneath. The Jerahi flows through the
pass.
To Booah, twelve hours.] The ruins of a sombre karavan
serai, by the side of a broad mountain stream. There
is a great deal of table land in this vicinity ; but the
road to Booah is over a mass of terrific rocky heights.
It was impossible to ride up these acclivities without
great risk. The party accompanying the author dis
mounted, and assisted the mules and horses to ascend ;
but the precaution taken, and the assistance rendered,
did not prevent one laden horse from rolling over a
frightful precipice, being dashed to pieces in the
fall.
To Deidass (Deh-Dasht?), twelve hours. ] The ruins of an
ancient and extensive walled town, situated in the
heart of a picturesque valley. Within a hundred
yards of the entrance of the town, is a ruined karavan
serai, and in its immediate neighbourhood flows a
mountain river.
To Tengh Berarah, five hours.] A rocky mass, abounding in
caverns and recesses, which the Behbehanis proceeding
into the mountains invariably make their resting-places.
Numerous brooks, formed by the melting snows of the
326 TRAVELS IN
mountains in the vicinity, furnish an inexhaustible
supply of water.
To Safariah, eight hours. ] A small cluster of decayed
dwellings, surrounded by a few nobis trees at the
summit of a vast elevation, whence falls a beautiful
cascade. This appears to be a permanent location, for
as much cultivation is carried on as the small table
land will admit ; and there is an extensive cemetery
attached to the dwellings.
To Sadaat, eight hours.] Ruins of a once spacious city
on the peak of a lofty mountain. Part of the build
ings were undergoing repair, and a Musjed (the only
one in the Bactiyari) had just been raised. About one
hundred families dwell here, and devote much attention
to the culture of the vine, the produce of which is
sent to Shiraz. The whole neighbourhood is exceed
ingly fertile, and well watered. Roses, apples, walnuts,
and plums, grow everywhere in wild abundance. The
height of the mountain above the level of the sea must
be very considerable, for the thermometer was no more
than forty-six deg. Fahrenheit, and the air was piercing
cold. The ascent, as well as that of Safariah, is difficult
and perilous.
To Khad-Khana Garrin (Rud-Khanehgermf), or warm
water stream, eighteen hours.] A rapid and a roaring
torrent caused by the melting of the snows on the
summit of an adjoining mountain. The long and
cheerless journey to this spot lies through a succession
of rock, forest, and cascade, over awful acclivities, and
by the edge of precipices, overhanging deep ravines.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 327
So difficult is the passage of the torrent, that each
person bearing a load on his head was obliged to be
supported across the stream by two or three others,
who could with difficulty keep their legs, though the
water only reached their breasts.
To Pellaut (Felddf), five hours.] A small village of stone
and reed huts, at the base of a rocky hill, skirting a
broad plain, where little cultivation of barley and grain
is carried on. At this point is a beaten road which
leads to Shiraz.
To Simiroon, eleven hours.] An extensive town, built on a
lofty hill. There is a beautiful fountain which sup
plies the whole place with water, by means of natural
falls. Simiroon is populous and fertile. The fruits
are abundant, and of superior quality. The influence
of the Beglerbeg of Behbehan ceases at this point,
and everything procured must therefore be paid for
at an exorbitant rate.
To Coree, six hours.] A walled town, of small dimensions,
and trifling population. The people are better than
those of Simiroon. Provisions of no kind abundant.
To Comisha, eight hours.] This is an extensive town, con
taining an excellent karavanserai. It has been too
often described to need particular mention."
Page 296. — We find in Edrisi, who wrote in the twelfth
century, that Redjan, which is the same as Arejan, was
a district, as well as the name of a town. The passage runs
thus in M. Jaubert's French version of Edrisi : —
" Le district de Redjan dont nous avons deja fait mention,
et qui compte un grand nombre de viUes de grandeurs
328 TRAVELS IN
diverses, que nous allons indiquer ici avant de donner les
itineraires. Nous disons done que Redjan, situee sur les
limites de Khouzistan et de Fars, est une ville belle, riche,
offrant des ressources de tout genre et environnee d'un
territoire qui produit des raisins, des peches et des olives.
Les eaux cependant y sont de mauvaise qualite et a peine
potables. Pres de la porte de Redjan, du cote du
Khouzistan, on voit sur la riviere de Tab un pont appele
Deilemi, surnom du medecin de Hedjadj-ben-Yousouf. Ce
pont n'a qu'une arche soutenue par deux piles distantes entre
elles de quatre vingts pas ; la hauteur de cette arche est
a, peu pres egale h sa longueur," &c. (Edrisi, 3me Climat,
p. 399.)
Page 306. — After this work had been placed in the
printer's hand, I discovered the following passage in
D'Herbelot's Bibliotheque Orientale, which I think im
portant to mention, as it will serve to rectify an error into
which I have fallen concerning the town of Cobad, while it
will throw a new light on the subject.
The passage runs thus in the original : —
" Aber- Cobad, ville de la province cF Arragian situee entre
les pays de Fars et d'Ahvaz : elle fut batie par Ka'i- Cobad
premier roi de Perse de la race des Kaianides dont elle porte
le nom. Le mot Persien Aber qui signifie au dessus marque
qu'elle est situee sur une montagne," &c.
It appears, then, from the foregoing passage that the
town of Cobad did not owe its origin to the Sasanian
monarch of that name, as I had been erroneously led
to suppose, but to Ka'i- Cobad, the first king of the
Koianian race which succeeded the Pish-Dadian dynasty,
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 329
thus carrying us back to the heroic ages of Persian
history. This circumstance shows at the same time at what a
very remote period the country about Behbehan was
inhabited by the Persian race, giving a colour to the
supposition that the ancient stronghold of the Persians —
the Asylum Persarum — may, with some propriety, be sought
there. With respect to the conclusion M. d'Herbelot draws from
the word Aber, which he says means above, signifying,
therefore, that the town was situated on a hill, I must
observe that the village of Mansurieh — which occupies the
spot, and was built with the materials of the ancient city of
Cobad — stands on a plain, but not far from the foot of the
hills and the banks of the Tab. May not Aber have been
prefixed to it from the circumstance of Cobad being placed
above Arrejan, which lies on that stream about a farsang
lower down ?
In the same plain of Behbehan, between three and four far
sangs to the north-west, are the ruins of the town of Kai-
Kaus, a name which reminds us that Kai- Cobad had a son
called Kai-Kaus, the grandfather of Cyrus, King of Persia,
and who, perhaps, may have founded that city, although the
remains appear to denote a Sasanian origin.
CHAPTER XIII.
Learn the existence of some old sculptures in the mountains,
and in consequence change my route. — Various routes to
Shushter. — Prevail on Mirza Kumo to honour Govern
ment barats. — Three French travellers ill-treated at Beh
behan. — Take leave of my host. — Method of training
Arab horses in spring. — Account of the country. — Laws
on inheritance among the Uiyats. — Some curious enact
ments in the Zend legislation. — Course of the Kurdistan
river. — Treated with fresh dates at the village of Kai-
Kaiis. — Ruins of a town close to it. — Village of Tashun.
— Tradition concerning the Patriarch Abraham, said to have
been thrown into a burning furnace by Nimrod. — Conjec
tures as to the locality of Ur of the Chaldees.— Sacred
fish at Tashun. — Anecdote of similar fish preserved at an
Imam-Zadeh near Isfahan. — Further account of Tashun.
During the feAV days I remained at Behbehan,
in expectation of receiving some neAvs con
cerning the Moetemid's progress toAvards
Shushter, I Avas made acquainted by Mirza
Kumo Avith the existence of some curious
sculptures and inscriptions, about seven Persian
farsangs (twenty-six miles) to the north-west
TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 331
of Behbehan, among the Behmei mountains.
As no European traveller had ever, to my
knowledge, advanced so far in that direction,
nor even alluded to these sculptures, I Avas
anxious to ascertain whether the encomiums
lavished on them by my host and his friends,
as great curiosities, were merited. I thought
that, even if their praise Avas exaggerated, the
discovery of some remains of antiquity, how
ever insignificant, Avould prove welcome, and
add to the scanty knowledge we possess of the
ancient monuments of Elymais. This feeling
induced me to abandon my intention of pursuing
the lower road, which the late Gen. M'Donald
Kinneir had taken on his way from Shushter to
Behbehan and I resolved to follow a more
northerly direction, among the mountains in
which Tengi-Saulek was situated. I therefore
requested Mirza Kumo to furnish me with a
trusty guide, to show me the valley in ques
tion, and then take me straight to the Chief
of the Bakhtiyari-Cheharleng, Muhammed-Tag-
hi-Khan, through whose territory I should have
332 TRAVELS IN
to pass before I could reach the town of Shush
ter. My hospitable host not only readily ac
ceded to my wish, but kindly provided me with
horses for myself and my servants, as those I had
brought from Shiraz could go no further, and
as in this unsafe part of the country no mule
teers could be found.*
* Although I did not follow the direct road to Shushter,
it may not be reckoned superfluous if I give here the
different routes that lead to that city from Behbehan,
which I procured from native information.
The one through Ram-Hormuz runs thus : —
From Behbehan to Ka'i-Kaus . . . .2
to Jausun . . .6
to Sultanabad . . . .4
[Dur in Kinneir) to Dehi-Ur (pehamber) . . 4
to the town of Ram-Hormuz . 1
to Derre-bid (the willow defile) . 7
to ab-gunjishk . . 7
(Sparrow-water ; probably in con
sequence of scarcity of water in
that place).
to Shushter . . . .5
36
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 333
The Artillery Sergeant who accompanied
me from Shiraz, had been furnished by the
Visir of the Prince with a havale, or
cheque, on the Governor of Behbehan, to
pay him the arrears of his salary and
that of the company to which he belonged.
The poor man soon found out that it was no
easy matter to induce Mirza Kumo to honour
the Government bills, and, therefore, had
recourse to me to plead in his behalf. As
The second route to Shushter, leaving Ram-Hormuz to
the side, has the following stations : — Farsangs.
From Behbehan to Cham-Mullah . . .8
to Sultanabad . . . . 4
to Dehi-Ur . . .4
to Derre-bid . . . . 6
to Ab-Gunjid (probably Gunjishk, as
in the former route) . . 4
to Shushter . . . . 4
30
Making a difference of six. farsangs less for the latter
road.
334 TRAVELS IN
I had reason to be much satisfied with his
services, I could not refuse his request, not
withstanding that the task of expostulating
with my host must necessarily be unpleasant.
I was fortunate enough to overcome Mirza
Kumo's umvillingness to pay, by making him
sensible that his refusal to obey the orders of
the Prince might be construed into an open
act of rebellion; whereas his ready compliance
would shut the mouths of his calumniators.
I am not quite positive, however, that my
arguments alone produced the desired effect;
for it is not impossible that he yielded from
the consciousness of not being sufficiently pre
pared for resistance.
Persia has so long been exposed to the evils
of civil commotions, that the chiefs of distant
provinces do not reckon it a political crime
to revolt against the constituted authorities
whenever they feel themselves in a position
so to do. It is not uncommon to hear them
say, Avhen speaking of themselves, " Vakhte
yaghi budem," " when I Avas a rebel," &c.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 335
There was another point to which I wished
to draw Mirza Kumo's attention. I had read,
a short time before my departure, an article in
the " Journal des Debats," wherein it was stated
that three French travellers* had been detained
and ill-treated at Behbehan, and prevented by
the authorities there from prosecuting their
journey to Bagdad, by way of Shushter. I
told Mirza Kumo that this intelligence had
reached the ear of the Shah, who Avas much
displeased (which is a fact) that Europeans
travelling in his dominions should have been
molested and treated Avith disrespect. I added,
that I could expatiate the more freely on the
subject, as I had met with much attention and
hospitality at his hands, and would reckon it my
duty to vindicate his character in this respect
before the Shah. Mirza Kiimo assured me
that he was absent when those travellers
arrived at Behbehan, and had nothing to do
with what had taken place. He had afterwards
* M. Texier and the Counts de la Bourdonnaie and
Guische, if I am not mistaken.
336 TRAVELS IN
been given to understand, he said, that the
mehmandar, or guide, they came with from
Shiraz was the only person to blame ; for this
man, to serve his own purposes, had imposed
on the strangers, with a view of extorting
money from them. What truth there may
have been in this statement I cannot* say,
although such was likewise the version of the
affair which I heard at Shiraz.
January 28, 1841. I left Behbehan, accom
panied by my host and a long train of
attendants, mounted on fine Arab mares. I
may observe, by the way, that the Arabs here
are in the habit of making their horses take
very violent exercise a short time before
they put them to grass. I witnessed an
instance of this practised on the animal
belonging to my guide, Avhom Mirza Kumo
had named to show me the curiosities of Beh
behan. It was a fine blood mare, of which the Arab
was not a little proud; but he rode it so
hard, that the poor animal at last could scarcely
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN 337
drag one leg after the other, and trembled
all over. On expressing my surprise at such
inhuman treatment, my ciceroni answered, that
it Avas their custom to fag the horses as much
as possible before they turned them out to graze,
and that they are all the better for it.
The same practice prevails, it is true, to
a certain degree, in other parts of Persia,
especially with stallions, in the beginning of
spring, by way of curbing their spirit, and
making them lean before they are put to grass ;
but I had never yet seen the system of fagging
carried to such a length as in the present
instance. The road lay across a plain, which extends
from east to west for upwards of nine farsangs
(twenty-nine miles), and has a black fertile
soil. The air was pleasantly warm, and im
pregnated with the balmy fragrance of the
narquiz (narcissus), which sprang up in wild
luxuriance, and covered whole meadoAvs with
a Avhite sheet, in the direction of the ruins
of Arrejan.
vol. i. z
338 TRAVELS IN
I found in the plains of Behbehan, as well
as in my further progress in the mountains,
a vast number of caterpillars, crawling on the
earth in all directions, Avith a broad streak of
a bright crimson colour over their backs,
Avhich they did not lose even when dried, as
I preserved seA^eral of those insects.
Mirza Kumo soon bid me farewell, but not
before he had committed me to the care of
his nephew, Mirza-'Ali, whose guest I Avas to
be for the night, at the village of Kai-Kaus,
two farsangs north-west of Behbehan.
In the suite of Mirza Kumo was the eldest
son of his deceased brother, Mansur-Khan, the
former chief of Behbehan ; but the poor young
man did not appear to be well at his ease, for it
seems the uncle had usurped the power to the
prejudice of the nepheAV, Avho, as the eldest son
of the elder branch, had a right to the succes
sion according to the prevailing custom among
Nomadic tribes, from whom it probably passed
into the feudal system, and formed the funda
mental law during the middle ages of Europe. It
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 339
is not, however, an unfrequent occurrence that a
younger brother among the Uiyat tribes suc
ceeds to the chieftainship of the clan at the
death of the elder brother ; but still this gene
rally happens either by violence, or in conse
quence of the minority and weakness of the next
male heir. But as Mussulmans are allowed plu
rality of wives, the next heir does not always
happen to be the first-born son. The nobility
of the mother decides the point. Hence the
melancholy spectacle of the dreadful hatred
which exists between the members of the same
family, the plots and intrigues that are carried
on in secret, the feuds between rival tribes, ter
minating either in mysterious tragedies, or open
bloodshed. It is a sad thought to dwell on the heinous
feelings of jealousy, rancour, hatred, and re
venge that lurk in the breasts of those by nature
gentle- beings,. whose heart was created for love
alone, and on the dire effects such vicious senti
ments have on their offspring, Avho are taught
from their cradle to hate their brothers and
z 2
340 TRAVELS IN
sisters because another breast has given them
suck. It would suffice to see the interior of a
Mussulman menage, to be convinced of the
Divine origin of our Christian faith, which
allows but one bosom friend and partner
through life.
According to the old law among the Zend
race, a man was, as a rule, allowed to have
but one wife; and it was only in case she bore
no children, that he could take another, and
even then not without her consent.*
Speaking of the Zend legislation, I am
reminded of some singular laws which existed
among that people, namely, if a married
daughter, whose father happened to have no
male issue, bore a son, that son became the
property of her father. In the same manner,
if her brother was without a son, her eldest
male child became his. Likewise, if a youth
happened to die before contracting a marriage,
* See Rhode's "Heilige Sage des Zend-Volks," &c,
p. 443.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 341
another young man took a Avife in his name,
and the first male child was reckoned as if
he were the son of the deceased.*
1 suspect this latter law was enacted in
consequence of the belief the followers of
Zoroaster had, in the efficacy of the prayers of
the children for the repose of the souls of
their departed parents.
About one farsang from the latter place we
crossed the river Kurdistan,^ which is fordable
at this spot, leaving on our right, a little up
the stream, the villages of Kazim, and on the
left, those of Horestdn, Kurdistan, and Huseina-
bdd. The river Kurdistan takes its rise in the
* Rhode's "Heilige Sage des Zend-Volks," &c, p. 443.
f I perfectly concur with the opinion of the learned
editor of the Royal Geographical Society's Journal, that
common Turks and Persians have no notion of giving
a general name to any but very large rivers. (See vol. xiii.
p. 87.) I shall only add, that as far as my observations
go in respect to Persia, even great rivers are not exempt
from this rule. Such is the case with the river Kurdistan
itself, which bears this name in its upper course, and
Jerahi lower down ; although it is a very deep, broad,
342 TRAVELS IN
hilly country of Serhad-Chenar, to the north
or north-east of Behbehan, and passing by
Deh-Dasht, the summer residence of Mirza
Kumo, eight farsangs (twenty-six miles) in
the mountains, it enters the narrow Valley of
Tengi-tek-a, ; * after which it opens to itself
a broader passage between the mountains of
Bolenghes and Howiz, just above Arrejan,
and flows in a deep and wide channel, with
high banks on either side. This river, after
leaving the Behbehan territory, flows in a
north-west direction, and joining to the south
of Ram-Hormuz the Tezeng or A'lai river,
which comes from the eastern hills, empties
and rapid stream, receiving many considerable tributaries
before it reaches the Kuren. The Kherkheh (the Choaspes),
likewise, one of the greatest rivers of Persia, is called
Kara-sit, near Kermanshah and Gumasdb, near Nehavend.
The Kizil- Uzen, which rises in Kurdistan, changes its name
to that of Sefid-rud, before it discharges itself into the
Caspian Sea, in the province of Ghilan.
* Straits of the deep waters : tek, signifying deep in the
ancient dialect of the country, and a, a contraction of ab
(water), among the Kurdish and Lur tribes.
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 343
itself into the Kiiren under the name of Jerahi*
in the Chab country, Avhilst another branch,
it is said, has a direct communication with
the Persian Gulf.-j-
Mirza 'Ali treated me to some fresh dates,
which, next to those of Fesa in Fars, I
found the most delicious I had ever tasted,
but rather too luscious and very clammy.
His village is surrounded by palm-trees, but
the season Avas over, and all the dates were
already gathered by the peasants.
January 29. At a quarter-past six, a.m., we
were again on horseback. My host accompanied
me part of the road to show me some ancient
ruins. In the neighbourhood of the village of
Kai-Kaus, are the relics of a toAvn AAlxich
goes by the same name. In the midst
of a quantity of rubbish and loose stones,
* The Kurdistan or Jerahi river, is the Tab of the Arab
writers, as I shall prove hereafter.
f See M 'Donald Kinneir's "Memoir on a Map of Persia,"
and Ainsworth's " Researches in Chaldea," &c.
344 TRAVELS IN
rises a lofty pile, known to the inhabitants
by the name of Fil-Khaneh, or, the elephant's
abode. It may probably have been used for
that purpose, as it consists -of two Avails,
with a high gateway in each, over Avhich is
a Avindow. The era of the building I believe
to be Sasanian.
At half-past seven we came to an old square
building in the form of a Musulman Imam-
Zadeh (saints' sepulchre). The inside is
vaulted, and round the building are some
stragghng tomb-stones. The high hill of Bodil
is to the right, bearing N.N.E. After we had
crossed a low range of calcareous hills, we
reached, at eight o'clock, the village of Chdrro,
in the neighbourhood of Avhich, on a plain,
are two ruined edifices, built of freestone and
Avhite mortar. The larger of these buildings
has a long apartment, with three high door
ways leading into ruins of inferior dimensions.
It has no roof.
Continuing my march in a N.N.W. direc-
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 345
tion from the previous night's halting-place,
at nine, a.m., I reached Tashun* The chief
of this place came out to meet me with some
armed horsemen.
Tashun at present is but a poor place ; but
the ruins of houses, bazaars, palaces, and
baths, scattered in all directions, and venerable
old trees Avith massive branches, attest it to
have been formerly a considerable and pic
turesque town, perhaps during the dominion of
the Atabegs of Luribuzurg, as the buildings
are apparently modern. According to the
natives, however, there exists a tradition that
Tashun is the spot where the Patriarch Ibra
him, or Abraham, was thrown into a burning
furnace by Nimrud, " the mighty hunter,
before the Lord ; " and in corroboration of
this legend, they adduce the name of the
* I take the liberty to differ with the editor of the above-
cited journal of the Royal Geographical Society, (see
vol. xiii., p. 88,) who thinks Tashun is the same as Jar soon,
in Kinneir, (p. 457) ; the latter is the Jausun in the
first route I give between Behbehan and Shushter, which
lies more to the south-west.
346 TRAVELS IN
town of Tashun, which is derived from atash,
meaning fire.
Major Rawlinson mentions the same fable,
as attached to a place called Manjanik, in
Baghi-Malek, in the Bakhtiyari country.*
A circumstance, hoAvever, which deserves to
attract our notice, is that in the neighbour
hood of' Tashun, and not far distant neither
from Manjanik, where the tradition concern
ing Abraham and Nimrod, as we have just
seen, is likewise kept alive, we find a village
called Ur, Avhich, according to Scripture, Avas
the name given to the birth-place of Abraham
in Chaldea.
Sixteen farsangs Avest of Behbehan, on the
road to Shushter, is Dehi- Ur (or village of Ur),f
where, according to the information I obtained
at Behbehan, a certain ancient prophet was
buried, Avhose name the natives could not tell
* See " Notes on a March from Zohab to Khuzistan," in
vol. ix. of the " Journal of the Royal Geographical Society,"
p. 81.
f Dur, in Kinneir's " Itinerary."
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 347
me ; and as I did not follow that direction, I
failed to ascertain any further particulars on
the subject.
We read in the Book of Genesis, chap. xii.
28, 31, that Haran, the brother of Abraham,
died at Ur in the Chaldees, before the latter,
with his father Terah, left the place of their
nativity; while Josephus, who wrote the "His
tory of the JeAVs after the final Destruction
of Jerusalem," mentions that the sepulchre of
Haran was still to be seen at" Ur in his days.
The locality of Ur, I believe has not yet
been fixed, neither have the limits of Chaldea
been properly defined; it is not unlikely, how
ever, that they extended thus far east, for we
know from Pliny, and even Strabo, that some
of the rivers of Susiana discharged their
waters into the lake or sea of the Chaldees,
probably in the Cha'b country to the south
east of Shushter.
Not the least curious circumstance in this
account is, that Ur, like Tashun and Man
janik, should be connected with the notion
348 TRAVELS IN
of fire, for Ur, in Hebrew, literally means fire.
This, therefore, may be the reason why St.
Jerome, in his translation of Nehemiah ix. 7,
instead of saying, " Thou art the Lord the
God, who didst choose Abram, and broughtest
him out of Ur of the Chaldees," translates,
" Thou broughtest Abram out of the fire of the
Chaldees." Tashun has a spring of very clear water,
with much foliage around it, Avherein sacred
fish are kept. This is usually supposed to
denote the antiquity of the spot. There are
still many reservoirs of water in Persia wherein
fish are held sacred, and this superstition is
probably of Pagan origin.
On a journey from Isfahan to Hamadan,
through Hunsar and Gulpeigan, in 1840, I
happened to stop one day at an Imam-Zadeh,
or tomb of a Mussulman saint, shaded by beau
tiful chinars (the eastern plane-tree), close to
Avhich there was a pond containing a vast
number of fish. The Mutaveli, or guardian
of the tomb, on learning that my servants
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 349
were disposed to catch some fish for our supper,
came to remonstrate, and, in order to dissuade
us from committing an act, which in his sight
appeared so sacrilegious, related a miracle
that had been wrought at this place a century
ago. At the time Isfahan fell into the hands
of the Afghans, two men of that nation came
to this Imam-Zadeh, and, although they were
warned by the keeper of the temple that the
fish in the pond were sacred, helped themselves
to them before retiring to rest. When lo ! the
next morning one of the blasphemers was
found dead, and the other, from a Sunni
dog (" as all the Afghans are," observed my
narrator), became, through a miracle of Hezreti
AH, a true Skia.
While the good man was telling his tale, the
fish were frying on the pan, and, however they
may have operated on the Afghans, I found on
waking the next morning that they had not the
same effect on me.
Tashun has five villages under its jurisdiction,
350 TRAVELS IN LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN.
and pays yearly to the Governor of Behbehan
the sum of 500 tomans, equal to 250/. sterling.
The produce consists chiefly of wheat, barley,
Indian corn, kunjed, or sesamum, peas, beans,
cotton, &c. The peasants dispose of their
surplus produce to the wandering tribes that
live in the neighbouring mountains in exchange
for the produce of their flocks.
CHAPTER XIV.
Set out for the valley of Tengi-Saiilek. — Necessary pre
cautions against the Bahme'i mountaineers. — Description
of the road. — Black rock, with bas-reliefs and inscriptions
in unknown characters. — Another sculptured stone in the
same recess of the mountains. — Passage of a letter from
M. E. Bore on the subject of the above inscriptions. —
Conjecture as to their resemblance to the Tamul character.
— Cypress Grove. — Elymite worship of Anaitis. — -Landseer
on Sabaean antiquities. — Curious analogy between the
second bas-relief at Tengi-Saiilek, and a passage in
" Vathek." — Communication with Isfahan. — Worn-out
pavement. — Night spent in the open air. — The young
Teshuni pehlevan.
The orders of Mirza Kumo had preceded me
at this place, and the chief of Tashun, with
half a dozen well-armed horsemen, and a dozen
strong-limbed peasants with matchlocks on their
shoulders and clubs in their hands, were ready
to attend me to the valley of Tengi-Saulek.
This precaution was necessary on account of the
wild habits of the Bahmei, an outlawed tribe,
352
TRAVELS IN
who rove about in this mountainous tract of
country, and scarcely recognise any authority
whatever. They were, moreover, at the time in
open feud with the Governor of Behbehan.
We now moved in the direction of north
west, having to our right stupendous mountains,
bearing from south-east to north-Avest, and
another range of calcareous hills of less alti
tude, in a parallel line on the left. The road
soon became very rugged, and the country
around us dreary, and entirely devoid of vege
tation. We crossed the dry beds of several
mountain streams, and arrived at the entrance
of Tengi-Saiilek at noon, after a tedious march
of three hours.
Here we halted, sent out scouts to examine
whether the coast Avas clear, and placed
videttes to give warning in case of a surprise.
Having ascertained that all was right, Ave
entered the narroAV defile, hemmed in between
lofty rocks, which overhang the path. A
mountain stream flows beloAV. As Ave toiled
on by a steep ascent among loose stones, Ave
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FIRST BAS-RELIEF AT TENGI SAULEK (PERSIA).
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 353
came at times upon an old pavement, the
pohshed stones of which were so slippery
that the horses could with difficulty advance.
The path soon widened, and we found ourselves
in a grove of oaks, cypresses, and the kuhnar.
It was in this retired glade that I found the
object of my search.
A huge black rock, Avith yellow streaks,
thirty or forty feet in height, and eighty or
ninety in circumference, stands detached from the
rest. There are bas-reliefs and inscriptions on
two of its sides. The first represents an altar,
surmounted by a conical pile somewhat in the
shape of a sugar-loaf, round which a fillet is
tied in a knot, Avith two ends streaming
downwards. Close to this altar stands the
mobed, or high priest. A conical cap is
placed on a very bushy head of frizzled hair,
and a short beard, with a pair of mustachios,
covers the lower part of the face. The right
arm, clothed in a narrow striped sleeve, is
extended towards the altar, while the left,
partly effaced, is stuck in his bosom. The
VOL. I. A A
354 TRAVELS IN
figure is clad in a short garment, which de
scends to the knees. Beneath this appears a
striped under-gown, and vride trousers, or
shalvars, used by the Persians at the present
day. A loose tunic, thrown over the right
shoulder, likewise descends to the knees. I
have dAvelt more minutely on this figure, be
cause it is the only one of the AA'hole group
which is in a tolerable state of preservation.
On the right side of the mobed is a group
of nine figures, Avhich, with the exception of
one nearest the priest, and seated on a low
stool, are in an erect posture, but so dilapidated
that none of their faces can be made out. The
four figures beloAV this group, Avith tAvo smaller
ones, are still less discernible ; and another
figure under them, close to the ground, is not
much better. On the extreme right, a figure
on horseback, Avith a bow and arrow, is in
the attitude of attacking a Avild beast, Avhich
is standing on its hind legs. It is difficult to
decide Avhether it be a lion, a bear, or a Avild
boar. Close to the latter is a rude inscription
LURISTAN AND ARABISTAN. 355
on the stone, of five lines, partly obliterated,
and in characters unknoAvn to me.
An inscription in similar characters, contain
ing likewise five lines, is carved under the
altar, the two last lines of Avhich are effaced
more than the rest.
On the second face of the rock are four
persons in a row. The principal figure is re
clining on a couch,* Avith the left arm on a
cushion, and holding in the right hand a
circlet. The head is ornamented by two clus
ters of thick hair, but not one feature of the face
can be distinguished. Tavo figures are seated
at the foot of the couch, each with an arrow-
headed spear in the right hand. One of them
has a sort of diadem on the head, consisting
of six spreading rays, with little globules at
the extremity of each ray.
Behind the couch stands a figure on tip-
* In Sir Gardner AVilkinson's description of the man
ners and customs of the Egyptians, I have found the
sketch of a couch, which bears some resemblance to the
one in question. See vol. ii. p. 201.
A A 2
356 TRAVELS IN
toe, so much damaged that it was with diffi
culty I could trace the outhne. The head,
as is the case with the greater part of the
figures, has likewise a profusion of hair. It
has also a tuft on the crown of the head.
Below this group are some faint traces of three
more figures, in a frame scooped out in the
rock. To the left of the tAvo armed figures
above mentioned, I found a third inscription,
consisting of five lines.
Opposite to the monolite just described is
another stone, somewhat smaller, and in con
nexion with other rocks. It is at a short
distance from the former, partly shaded by
trees, and bears no inscriptions ; but the sculp
tures on it are in better preservation than those
on the large stone. They represent a figure
on horseback, in full career, carrying a spear
in a horizontal position. The figure is seated
sideways, with the legs hanging down the right
side of the horse ; and to judge by the slender
form of the upper part of the body, and the
curve discernible over the breasts, I should
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