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Copyright, 1895. by Western Wheel Works,

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D O
M•X.

TRICK CYCLING
IN MANY LANDS.

An Exhibition Tour of the World.

BY
W. S. MALTBY.rtt

New York .-
ESS & Ridge Primting Co.
110-114 Fifth Avenue. ^

1S96.

Copyright 1895,
BY
W. S. MALTBY.

CONTENTS.
PAGE.
Preface, - - 7
The Paradise of the Pacific, - - 9
Australia, - - 20
Among the South Sea Islanders, - ^ 30
Farther India, - - 37
Calcutta, - - 43
Bombay and Poonah, - - - 50
A Wheel on an Elephant, - - 55
Delhi, - - - 60
Jodhpore, ... 66
On Several Seas, - - - 74
The Mediterranean, - - 81
A Week in London, - - 86
The American Team of Cyclists, - 91
Aberdeen Pier, - - - 97
Back to Foggy London, - - 103
The Conclusion, * - - 109

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE.
" He Would Feel His Way Slowly." Frontispiece.
"The Chair of Music," 26
"An Oriental Punka," - 44
" The Taj-Mahal at Agra,' - - 62
" Before the Rajah," - - 80
" Aberdeen Pier," - . gS
" The Rajah Sociable," - - . 108

PREFACE.

IT is with feelings of considerable delicacy that I
present to the public this book of my adventures
and achievements in foreign climes, of which I am of
necessity my own chronicler. To be sure, I was not
alone at any time during the tour, but as no one person
was my associate during the entire trip, it became in
cumbent upon me, if any one, to give its history
complete. Leaving San Francisco with the late F. S.
RoUinson, I visited the Hawaiian Islands and Australia ;
then Robert J. Aginton became my partner until I
reached London, where 1 became associated with the
American Team during my stay in Great Britain. In
asmuch as I had taken voluminous notes of my experi
ences and have been so often urged by my friends to
perpetuate them in book form^ I finally decided to do
so, with the intention of avoiding self-laudation and
giving to the cycling public the more important and
interesting features of the journey.
The great difficulty in writing of one's own achieve
ments and adventures is that one is apt to drift into
the narration of events dull to tfce general reader.
The book, therefore, is meant to contain only what
cyclists will be interested in reading, and not so much

in praise of myself but that it will be excused in view
of the circumstances. It was not a trip that I could
urge another to attempt unless he had made much
more definite plans and had provided himself abun
dantly with what is biblically known as scrip. I count
myself as having been exceedingly fortunate through
out my trip in that I never became absolutely stranded,
for whenever the exchequer came to its lowest ebb
some point was reached where faint cycling interest
was fanned into a big enough flame to support an
exhibition, and thus bridge me over until I reached
an important city. In large cities advertising, aided
by human curiosity, lent its support, and, curiously
enough, at Bombay nearly all my patronage came, not
from the natives or resident Europeans, but from the
Parsees. I could relate other instances to show how
vicissitous was the venture and how foolish it would
be for a rider, however expert, to attempt it without
definite plans and a fat purse. Its results, however,
have been a great advantage to me, for its many suc
cesses and trials have given me greater confidence,
skill and experience in my subsequent career as a
scientific and fancy rider.
W. S. Maltby.
May I, 189^.

CHAPTER L
the paradise of the pacific.
BELIEVE it was John Gulliver who, in
that famous account of his travels, as
sured the reader that he would set forth
a plain and true statement of his expe
riences in foreign climes. No one has ever yet
called this great traveler to account for his stories,
and I trust, therefore, that much less will grains
of salt be needed by those who read this simple tale
of a trick cyclist.
In the spring of 1886 I left Birmingham, Connect
icut, and made a tour to the Pacific coast, perform
ing with success at many of the cities of the West,
and at numerous places in California, which I had in
tended to make the terminus of my tour. But about
the first of June a certain irresistible desire seized
me to visit foreign lands, and add to the little fame
and success already acquired. ^ Many talks with
Mr. Riddell, of the bicycle firm of Riddell Bros.,
San Francisco, fanned this ambitious craving into a

lo Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
determination to go to Australia in company -with
Mr. Riddell and Mr. F. S. Rollinson, the famous
English cyclist.
We secured passage on the Mariposa, of the Oceanic
Steamship Company, but so manifold were the prep
arations necessary for the trip, that when the day
arrived for sailing we had our hands full, and it was
only by chance that we caught the steamer. It hap
pened that she was ladylike enough to be behind a
few hours in getting her things on, so by taking a
tug we boarded her just as she was weighing anchor.
Our minds were relieved of something that seemed
to have weighed quite as much as that fluked bit of
pig-iron. When I got on deck I felt like doing an act or two
with the unicycle then and there, but Riddell calmed
me down by pointing out the beauties of the June
sunset, which, as we passed out of the Golden Gate
into the broad Pacific, was indeed a grand sight.
'Frisco soon faded from view, the sun closed his
golden eyelashes, and we remembered that we had
not lunched. Forthwith we repaired to the stuffy
dining-saloon of the good ship for dinner. That re
past was retained by me in memory only, for every

The Paradise of the Pacific. ii
well-appointed ship has, besides other things, a mo
tion, and this is what most impresses me while afloat.
Oh, how I longed for land ! a bit of the old Nutmeg
State — anything in the shape of solid dirt ; anything
that suggested land was a comfort to me at that dis
mal time. Riddell says that while I was in my bunk,
moaning, I even asked if there wasn't some real-
estate agent on board. I deny this, but I admit to
swearing by all the shad in the Connecticut River
that if I ever reached Honolulu I would naturalize
and become an out-and-out Hawaiian the rest of my
days. After three days of misery the sea became
like a mill pond, and I began to realize that life was
worth living, after all.
The trip to Honolulu is really a pleasant one, and
it was only my extreme susceptibility to sea-sickness
that marred its first few days. It is a voyage of
2,100 miles and occupies a week. Most of the time
we sat in summer clothing under the awnings of the
deck, looking out upon the placid sea, which is of a
very deep blue. There was always a pleasant, balmy
breeze, yet even at night there was little dampness
or chill to the air. The time passed very quickly as
we chatted and discussed our plans for the future.

12 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
Rollinson and I made plans for Australia, for he
not only intended to compete in the many races
there, but also to join me in double-act performances,
although we had yet had no opportunity to practice
together. At last the voyage came to an end and
the sunny shores of the Sandwich Islands met our
view. Honolulu presents a most charming picture, sit
uated at the foot of high hills and mountains, whose
many shades of foliage are mottled by the shadows
of quickly passing clouds. The island has many a
pretty inlet and bay where " the cocoa with its crest
of spears stands sentry 'round the crescent shore."
Beyond are seen quaint native huts surrounded
by banana-trees, and as we approached nearer rich
cane-fields spread inland along the base of the hills.
As we passed up the picturesque Pearl Harbor a
fleet of native boats came out to meet us, filled 'with
tradesmen and small boys. These young natives
possessed a degree of skill in di-ving that would
arouse envy in the most expert aquatic fowl. (They
are equaled only by the Malay boys whom I after
ward saw as I entered the harbor at Singapore.) When
coins were tossed to them from the ship they would

The Paradise of the Pacific. 13
dive after them eagerly, and in whatever direction
the piece was thrown some one of them would al
most invariably succeed in capturing the prize and
come grinning to the surface a richer and prouder
boy. We reached the dock early in the morning and
after a breakfast chiefly of fresh tropical fruits, picked
that morning and brought on board, we went direct
ly to the post-office to mail our letters. The streets
presented an active appearance, crowded with na
tives, the men wearing loose trousers and the women
arrayed in calico dresses called " Hullacoos," resem
bling " Mother Hubbards." I was surprised to find
the buildings of wood, not unlike the American house,
though not as high.
The streets in the vicinity of Honolulu are -mac
adamized, and are level and excellent for cycling.
The most popular run for wheelmen is along the
shore to Waikiki. It is about five miles in length,
and extends alongside of banana plantations and
cocoanut groves, which afford abundant shade ; and
to this is generally added a pleasant sea-breeze for
the benefit of the cyclist. *
I arranged, the day after our arrival, to give an
exhibition in the Honolulu rink. On going there

14 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
with our baggage, Riddell and I met several wheel
men, among whom was the son of King Kalakaua.
He turned out to be an enthusiastic cyclist, and to
this fact was largely due the pronounced success of
my first performance in a foreign land. His Majesty
was among the spectators, and never before nor since
have I appeared before so enthusiastic an audience
as was this large and novel-looking crowd of " Kan-
nackers." Thus, having become acquainted with a number of
wheelmen, we enjoyed several pleasant trips to
Waikiki. One beautiful moonlight evening we par
ticipated in a delightful trip awheel to Diamond
Head, the extinct volcano. The party consisted of
about twenty ladies and gentlemen. We wheeled
first out to Waikiki, and then through Kapiolani Park
to the famous volcano, whose lofty crest of lava
overlooks the azure Pacific, the first to greet those
who come and the last to nod a farewell and bon voy
age to ships leaving the island. Our moonlight trip
was like visiting fairy-land. It was a \veird blending
of mountain grandeur and tropical foliage, standing
out clear and soft in the silvery moonlight. We
had a fascinating spin homeward along the shore,

The Paradise of the Pacific. 15
reaching Honolulu at an unmentionable hour in the
morning, cool and refreshed by the ride.
Two days later we made up a party of six and went
for a drive to Pali, a mountain eight miles distant.
The road to Pali is not level enough for bicycling.
We passed numerous mules on the way, laden with
rice and bananas, and the road is shaded and beauti
fied by tall Algeroba trees which are covered with
long green and yellow pods. The natives gather
these pods and feed them to their horses. We drove
nearly to the foot of Pali and then climbed to the
summit. The mountain is about 1,200 feet high, and
affords a grand view of the land and ocean. Below
were stretched out the cane - fields and cocoanut
plantations ; beyond the placid blue ocean.
Hawaiian history or tradition has it that in a war
with the natives of a neighboring island the invad
ers were driven over this very precipice, falling a
thousand feet on to the rocks, where the natives say
that to this day skulls of their former enemy may
be found — a veritable Golgotha of the Western Hemi-
sphere. The view from the other side of the mount
ain presented the city with its snow-white houses
sprinkled amid the tropical foliage, the stone palace

1 6 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
of the king figuring prominently on the edge of the
pretty harbor, whose forest of masts contrasted
very pleasantly with the mammoth palms along
the shore.
The following week, after playing again at the Hon
olulu rink, I started on a tour among other islands of
the Hawaiian group. Neither Riddell nor Rollinson
accompanied me on this trip, either because they pre
ferred to remain -with the friends they had made in
Honolulu, or because they were of a less adventure
some disposition than I. On account of the hilly
country I found very little cycling, though occasion
ally there would be a shore road suitable for the
sport. I first visited Maui, where are the largest
sugar plantations in the world ; then went to Hawaii,
landing at Hilo, which is about 220 miles from Hon
olulu. The climate is cooler than at the latter place,
and the fruits are especially fine. I found only one
wheelman at Hilo, Mr. E. D. Baldwin, a government
surveyor. After giving a performance there, at which
the natives became so enthusiastic that some threw
coins on the floor for me to pick up, I went to see
the great volcano Kilauea, which is thirty-two miles
from Hilo.

The Paradise of the Pacific. 17
For twenty miles there was a good macadamized
road, built by convict labor. Then, abandoning my
wheel for a pony, I reached the Volcano House late
in the evening. This house overlooks a sea of dead
lava three mUes wide, full of crevices. Over this I
walked, not especially enjoying the cracks and the oc
casional smoke and steam, ominous of a fresh break
out. After this tedious walk I at last came to the
brink surrounding the inner pit below. The pit, or
lake of fire, is 825 feet in diameter, and waves of fire
dash madly against the lava sides with the rushing
sound of surf on a rocky shore. It is called " Hale-
Mau-Mau," " The House of Fire." Its ever-chang
ing form, color , and furious motion is most awe-in
spiring, and yet so fascinating that one can gaze at it
for hours. The ride back was glorious, for on reach
ing the macadamized road, which is a grade of 100
feet to a mile, I coasted the twenty miles straight
away to Hilo.
After this long spin I was much fatigued, and was
advised to try the " Lomi Lomi" treatment. More out
of curiosity than faith, I visited a natfve hut which was
very clean and fragrant with Hawaiian smilax. After
removing superfluous clothing, the patient rests on a

1 8 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
low couch of soft matting. Two pleasant-looking
native girls kneel beside him and begin kneading
the muscles of the limbs, and by this process drive
away lameness and fatigue. The joints are worked
until they lose their stiffness, the head is pressed
between the palms, and by pinching the back of the
neck the headache seems to be chased down the
spine. All the time the girls keep up a constant
jingle of talk, showing handsome teeth and gazing
at one with large black eyes. One becomes partially
mesmerized and, glowing from scalp to toe with a
wholesome tingling sensation, falls into peaceful
slumber. The " Lomi Lomi " treatment is a great
thing for tired cyclists, and it is a pity that the
L. A. W. do not adopt it. Upon returning to Hono
lulu I again enjoyed the hospitality of many friends
whom I met there. It was with regret that I was
at last obliged to bid farewell to these congenial
acquaintances and to the Paradise of the Pacific.
A week later we reached Samoa, but did not land.
A small boat met us outside the harbor of Tu Tula
to receive our mail, and we proceeded southward,
reaching Auckland June 25th. We spent the day
in Auckland, which was then a city of about fifty

The Paradise of the Pacific. 19
thousand inhabitants. The winter or rainy season
had commenced, and the heavy wind and chilly
air was quite a contrast to the tropical climate we
had so recently experienced. We met a noted cy
clist of New Zealand, Mr. Harry Hyar, who gave us
valuable information on the cycling interests in New
Zealand. The following morning we steamed along
the east coast of Cape Auckland, which afforded an
opportunity of viewing the picturesque shore. Then,
toward noon, we sailed westward for Sydney. Four
days later we reached " Sydney Heads," as the high
cliffs on either side of the entrance to vSydney har
bor are called, and as the sun was setting we steamed
up the pretty harbor, filled with sailing-vessels and
other craft, which the red tint of the setting sun
made resplendent.

CHAPTER IL
AUSTRALIA.
UPON arriving at Sydney, July ist, we expressed
our wheels and baggage to Redfem, a suburb,
where an excellent boarding-place had been recom
mended by a friend of Riddell's. Thither we after
ward followed, but in a manner novel to me — namely :
in a Sydney tram.
This remarkable conveyance is propelled by a
dummy engine ; its carriages are two stories high,
with winding-stairs at the back leading to the top
seats. It seemed for all the world like traveling in a
house on wheels ; but they are surprisingly fast,
making better time and less noise than the Broad
way cable-cars. On arriving at the "Girvan," as
our boarding-place was called, we spent the remain
der of the day in unpacking and in interviews with
newspaper men, who introduced us pretty thorough
ly to the Australian public in the morning papers.
The following clipping is from the Sydney Daily
Telegraph of July 3, 1886:

A ustralia. 2 1
CYCLING — champion RIDERS FROM AMERICA.
" W. S. Maltby, who during the past two years has
achieved considerable renown in the United States
as the champion fancy bicycle-rider, unicyclist and
buggy-wheel rider of the world, has just arrived
from America. To Mr. Maltby is credited the intro
duction of the one-wheel act with the forks removed.
A special feature in his performance is jumping over
a silk hat while riding on one wheel, etc., etc. He
purposes making a professional tour throughout the
colonies with Professor Fred. S. Rollinson, an En
glishman by birth, and one of the pioneers of bicy
cling in the United States. * * * At Sir Joseph
Banks' Pavilion, this afternoon at four o'clock, Malt
by will give a private exhibition, to which members
of the press and officers of the local bicycle clubs
are invited."
The " private exhibition " referred to in the Tele
gram was, in fact, a little private practice at the
Pavilion, in order to get rid of our sea-legs and be
in trim for the grand American celebration of the
glorious Fourth, which took place on the 5th of July,
as Sunday was the 4th. We were booked for Botany,
not as those criminals were in the early days of this

2 2 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
century, but as willing and patriotic participants in
the sports and gayeties of Independence Day. There
is a special fitness and significance in having the
Fourth celebrated at Botany, for the country was
discovered at this point in 1776, the same year that
the Declaration of Independence was signed.
Botany is a pretty little suburb, a few miles south.
of Sydney, and the Sir Joseph Banks Hotel is said to
be located a short distance from the very spot where
the discoverer, Captain Cook, first set foot.
On Monday, we found the Pa'vilion in gala day
costume. Conspicuous amid the flags and bunting-
were large portraits of the Queen and President
Cleveland, which hung directly over the chairs re
served for His Excellency the Governor, and Lady
Carrington. One end of the hall was arranged for
the banquet, the other end for dancing.
Our performance was given as soon as the Gov
ernor arrived, on the waxed dancing floor, and a
cycHst can realize how we were handicapped by the
slippery surface. We succeeded pretty well, how
ever, considering, receiving enthusiastic applause,
and after it was over His Excellency sent us compli
mentary expressions of his satisfaction.

A ustralia. 23
After dressing we joined in the banquet very
heartily, and listened to speeches which recalled in a
measure the sky-rocket oratory of a Fourth in New
England. Then there were real fireworks in front
of the Pa'vilion, after which the waxed floor was put
to its proper use — to support the tireless dancers.
Our next important engagements were at New
Castle, seventy miles north of Sydney, and at vari
ous mining towns in that vicinity. At one of these
towns we had the opportunity of going on an opos
sum hunt. We only succeeded in getting two, but
had an opportunity of enjoying the beauties of an
Australian forest and of visiting an orange grove,
where we found the fruit delicious, though not quite
equal to the California oranges.
Upon our return to Sydney, we spent several
weeks working up a big tournament and Interna
tional race between Rollinson and Rolfe, the Aus
tralian champion. For this purpose the grounds
of the Cricket Association were engaged.
The tournament was successful in spite of the
rainy weather, and, to the delight of the Sydneyites,
Rolfe beat Rollinson by several yards. But about
that time " Roily " won something better than a

24 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
race, for when we announced our intention of going
to Goulburn shortly after, he informed us that he
was married and that the trip would make an ex
cellent bridal tour.
After performing at Goulburn we went to Mel
bourne, where we were met by Allen (an agent
whom we had previously secured), and escorted to
the Albert House, Victoria street.
Upon arriving at important cities our policy was
always to devote a day or two to making acquaint
ances among the cycling clubs and with the news
papers. Accordingly, at Melbourne our first exhi
bition was given to the Press, to which leading
wheelmen were invited. This outlay of time and
expense gained us flattering notices, and we soon
made a month's engagement with the Femside
Cycling Club.
The contract was made through H. Stuart Bole
manager of the Melbourne Sports' Depot, who se
cured Mechanics' Hall for us to practice in. At our
first performance -at the Wareman's Grounds St.
Kilda Road (October 2d), Rollinson and I gave an
act in double cycling which took very well. For
this purpose a platform was constructed inside the

. Australia. 25
track. In response to an encore which I received
in my unicycle exhibition, I wheeled a quarter mile
on the track, which seemed to surprise everyone.
Just at this time it began to rain pitchforks, but
a little thing like that does not phase an Australian
crowd. They simply got under the grand stand or
patronized the lunch and barroom until the rain
was over, and the racing went on again. About
four thousand people attended this meeting, and the
second attracted nearly double that number, much
to the satisfaction of the Fernside Club and the dis
pensers of dry and wet refreshments.
The third meeting was a great carnival at the
grounds of the Melbourne Cricket Club, at which
20,000 people were present. The Intercolonial
championship was won in a close race by William
Kuhuel, of Adelaide. Subsequently a sketch of the
finish, and of Rollinson and myself in the double
act, appeared in Melbourne Punch.
The following week we took the steamer South
Australia, for Adelaide. The first of the trip is
down the Yarra River, chiefly not*ed for the absence
of scenery and its muddy banks. Passing the
Queenston Heads into open sea, we shaped our

s

HELPING THE CHAIR OF MUSIC ALONG.

l^J^rom Melbourne Punch.\

When Music, heavenly maid, was young.
And "chairs" were unknown things.
She touched her harp for love alone,
And swept it with her wings.
Now Music, heavejily maid, is old,
And wants a chair and gruel ;
For love yet still her harp is played.
But that love wants some fuel.
And so we've set our wits to work.
And made a motley fair.
To help the Goddess on her way,
And seat her in the chair.
But still the chair wheels stick and clog.
And so we've hired two "wheelers,''
Two celebrated bicyclists,
Two trick and fancy dealers.
The masher and the trickful man
Do deeds of skill and blunder.
And Francis O. stands up behind,
And twangs his harp in wonder.
Thy chair, sweet Music, 's firm 'and sure.
Through all the coming years ;
Where high-art failed, wheelmen succeed
With music of their spheres.

28 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
course foi the South Australian capital, and I was
just long enough on the billows to engender in me
another case of internal despair, or, as the Romans
call it, tumultum in ventri.
Our exhibitions at Adelaide were given in the
evening, at the Oval, on a platform erected oppo
site the grand stand. At each entrance to the
Oval there were stationed six mounted guards,
the grounds and platform were lighted by electric
lamps and our performance was aided by the South
Australian Band.
The last evening we were favored by the presence
of his Excellency the Governor (Sir Charles Robin
son), which swelled the attendance to about 4,000,
and after the exhibition a banquet was given us.
We returned to Melbourne by rail to fill an en
gagement at Exhibition Hall, in conjunction ^vith
the Opera Carnival. The object of the carnival was
to aid the " Melbourne Chair of Music," and our part
in it was evidently appreciated, for Melbourne Punch
published a cartoon representing Rollinson in bur
lesque costume on a bicycle hitched to a chair, and
myself on a carriage-wheel attached to the other
side.

Australia. 29
One of the stumbling blocks of this large-sized
fair was the seductive way in which pretty girls
loosened one's purse-strings (say nothing of heart
strings), by the selling of fancy articles or impos
sible chances, for the good of the cause. After this
wholesale robbery had been enjoyed for a week, for
" charity's " sake, I had the pleasure and fortune to
meet the celebrated roller-skater, R. J. Aginton, of
Boston, and soon after entered into partnership with
him. On Christmas Day, in lieu of a sleigh ride and
turkey, we indulged in a swim and a shore dinner,
which shows how little the Southern sun respects
our greatest festal day. Christmas in Melbourne is
something like Sunday ; the day after, called Box
ing Day, is the gala day of the year.

CHAPTER III.
among the south SEA ISLANDERS.
A FEW weeks later we again sailed down the
muddy Yarra, this time bound for Tasmania.
Rollinson was not with us, and Riddell had returned
to California ; but Aginton had practiced the double
act with me, and I had successfully branched out
into burlesque riding, so that our performances at
Hobart Town and Launceston were very well re
ceived. The next two months were spent in filling
small engagements, and after returning to the Girvan
to say good-bye to our friends, we sailed northward
from Sydney. It was with some regret that we
passed the Sydney Heads and the revolving electric
light upon the high cliffs at the left, for we could
hardly expect to find such warm friends and such
hospitality for many long months.
At Brisbane, Queensland, we exhibited several
times, and then sailed on to Rochaenpton and thence
to Townsville, where on account of the shallowness of
the bay we were obliged to go ashore in " launches."

Among the South Sea Islanders. 31
After playing twice there we went by rail to Charters
Towers, a mining to-wn sixty miles north of Towns-
grille. After three performances there, we returned
to Townsville, and took the steamer Katoomba for
Cooktown, five hundred miles to the north.
At this place I remember visiting the native camps
of Queensland Blacks, low types of humanity who
fed on garbage, and who felt that a rag worn very
-decollefe was quite enough for their adornment.
A squatter whom I met there told me that when he
first settled in that district he taught one of the
native women to cook for him, and since she pos
sessed no wardrobe whatever (jnirabile dictu) he
presented her with a blanket, supposing her female
instinct would turn it into a dress. A few hours
later he saw her with, not a Redfem creation, but
an enormous turban made of strips of the blanket.
Perhaps she had heard of our modern theater hat,
and wished to combine it with an ultra d^coUetd
¦costume .
We also visited a large Chinese garden near Cook-
town, where we enjoyed some mgst delicious pine
apples. You see we were traveling north, but
approaching a tropical region. There was but little

32 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
interest here in cycling, so our engagement did
not pan out very well, and in a few days we were
aboard the Bulimbia, of the British India Royal ^Mail
Line. Two days later we reached Thursday Island, but
did not stop long enough to give our proposed exhi
bition. We, however, visited the mansion of Gov
ernor Milman, a grand old structure overlooking
the green waters of the bay. Upon learning that
the steamer was about to leave, the Governor
held the steamer another hour, so that we gave a
short exhibition to a lot of little Thursday Islanders
who were hastily summoned to the " School of Arts "
and were duly astonished and delighted, at least if
one can judge from their faces and actions. The
Governor's private launch took us aboard the Bulim
bia, delighted with our brief visit to this land of
pearl fishers.
During the next ten days at sea we passed many
beautiful coral islands, at last arri-ving at Batavia,
Java, and landing about ten miles from the city, at
the Tan Jan Priok Wharfs. Here we had our first
difficulty in getting bicycles through the Custom^
being required to plank down one-third their value,

Among the South Sea Islanders. 33
but with a guarantee of having our money refunded
when we took them away again.
We took a train from Tan Jan Priok, and in half
an hour reached Batavia, where we were besieged
by Javanese cabmen whose jabbering was worse
than Greek to us. The only Europeans about were
Dutch, so that we felt as if we were on the Tower of
Babel, until I luckily recalled the name of a hotel in
Batavia. After repeating "Hotel De Netherland"
with several different inflections and pronunciations,
one of them caught on. He drove us two miles and
we began to fear that he had misinterpreted the
name, when at last he turned into large grounds
on which was a two-story stone edifice with mam
moth porches and balconies. It was a typical South
ern house, with ample rooms, large grounds and
large meals, the serving of which usually occupied a
whole hour.
The next day was Sunday, and on returning to
Tan Jan Priok for the wheels we found everything
locked up, so that we had to take a lesson from the
Javanese and observe the Sabbath strictly. On
Monday we met the American Consul, and through
him secured an interpreter by the name of Loch,

34 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
whom we engaged as our agent. By his aid we
obtained notices in the papers, of which the follow
ing extract is a specimen :
" Bataviaasch Nieuwblad Van,
I Mei, 1887.
" Maltby en Aginton. Met het verslag over de
gister door de wielrijders Maltby en Aginton in
den Schouwburg gegeven voorstelling kunnen wij-
kort ziju," etc.
The following day Mr. Loch took us to dine at
his house in the western part of the city. It was a
beautiful place, with large grounds, abounding in all
kinds of tropical fruit and foliage. The house was
of stone, one story high, with white stone floors, and
a wide porch all around it, on which were rustic
settees and easy chairs.
The Javanese go in for all the creature comforts,
and they seem to get more solid comfort to the
square inch than any people I have ever visited.
Our interpreter's family consisted of a wife and sis
ter-in-law, who had enough Dutch blood in them to
make them plump, yet refined in appearance. They
were well-educated and entertained us very nicely.
It seemed a little unconventional to meet ladies in

Among the South Sea Islanders. 35
" Mother Hubbards," sandals and stockingless ; but
why should we criticise the customs of Java so long
as the ladies are comfortable and the fashion be
comes them ?
Our dinner was served in three courses — fruits,
highly-seasoned soups and meats which left a last
ing taste of currie, red pepper, tabasco, and all the
other hot things this side of purgatory.
Still Java is a heavenly place, and one thing we
enjoyed the most at our hotel was the mornings. At
six A. M. tea and toast awaits you upon a veranda.
Attired in pajamas, you partake, with perhaps a
cigarette. Then comes a shower-bath and an hour
to dress, after which is a more substantial pran-
dium. As there was no bicycling in the city, we attracted
much attention as we wheeled about, and a real cir
cus would not have caused more of a sensation than
was created when I wheeled a few blocks on my
unicycle. Our performances, therefore, at the Bata
via Theater attracted large houses, and the matinees
brought out ladies and children in such masses that
it looked to us as if the hall was filled with " Mother
Hubbards " of all shades and sizes.

36 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
After so delightful a visit in this easy-going sev
enth heaven of the tropics, we, with regret, boarded
the French mail line steamer, the Godlivy, and in
two days landed at Singapore.
As we entered the harbor a fleet of little Malay
boys in dug-outs swarmed around, and, like the young
Hawaiians, dove and scrambled for coins like hun
gry minnows after crumbs.

CHAPTER IV.
FARTHER INDIA.
THE first mortal we met on the Malay Peninsula
was a tall, straight native, with British dress
and Gladstonian manners. He wore a cap something
like an inverted cuspidor, on which were the words
"Hotel del Europe." He condescended to show us
to a carriage and then loaded a cart with our wheels
and baggage. The cart went ahead (perhaps as a
sort of security for our cab fare) and we followed,
reaching the hotel in time for "tiffin," as the mid
day meal is called in India.
Etymologists say that " tiffin " is derived from
"stuffing," which degenerated to "tuffin," and finally
to "tiffin."
We ate according to the original meaning of the
term. The waiters were all Chinese, a thing I didn't
fancy, for it suggested collars and cuffs. My imagi
nation went so far one day that I refused corn-starch
pudding when the almond-eyed waiter placed it
before me.

38 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
After a little canvassing we found a place to per
form. Right in the center of Singapore is the Town
Hall, a magnificent building overlooking the harbor.
In front of this building stands a statue of an
elephant, which was presented to the city by the
King of Siam. I don't know why he gave it, but
Aginton said that an elephant is a sacred sjTnbol
of peace, and that the said king had once been there
on a little tout and wanted to square himself with
the city officials. The elephant is life-size, and to
make it more life-like the good king had it gilded.
We also found some of the English gilded gentry.
They seemed to be a cross between a dude and a
bunco steerer. Their occupation was dri\-ing dog
carts, swindling the natives, and playing tennis
without removing their monocles.
At our first exhibition the attendance was not
large, but by advertising and securing a good or
chestra we managed to fill the hall and were espe
cially well received by the little folks at our two
matinees. The city is well laid out, and in the European
portion there are many handsome residences. The
streets are all macadamized, and consequently are

Farther India. 39
excellent for cycling. For miles outside the city
there are fine roads of a hard, red clay, and as the
country is pretty level, wheeling should be most
popular in that section.
Lea\'ing Singapore by the steamer Tiasang, of the
China and India Steam Navigation Company, we
arrived, after-a comfortable two days' sail, at Penang
on the 24th of May, the Queen's Birthday.
As we entered the harbor we saw flags flying
everywhere. We were landed at 9 a. m. in sort of
gondolas, propelled by natives who row standing,
with long oars like the ones used by ./Eneas' crew
when he visited "ever receding Italy." Our Pali-
nurus stood in the stern steering and sculling at the
same time. The thermometer was about the nine
ties, which beat sunny Italy all hollow.
During our stay at Singapore we had met an
American gentleman, Mr. T. K. James, who became
one of our party on the Tiasang. He and Aginton
and I had a nice " tiffin " at the Oriental Hotel,
which was situated right on the shores of Penang.
After "tiffin" we took a drive to "the falls,"
where there were very pretty grounds laid out on
the mountain's side. We followed the stream some

40 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
distance up the mountain, but when our guide
warned us that those playful Bengal tigers came
down the mountain about dusk to take their evening
drink at "the falls," we bethought ourselves of
several important matters which needed our imme
diate attention. We couldn't get down that hill
quick enough, and that night, in the dreams of at
least one guest at the " Oriental," the Royal Bengal
prowled and roared lustily.
We did not have time to perform at Penang, nor
did we have the inclination. The town was full of
Chinese, and consequently dirty. One bit of sport
enjoyed by us was riding in the jinrickishas, a little
two- wheeled cart drawn by Chinese runners. These
runners make good time ; and we discovered that
for the consideration of an extra dime or quartet
they would redouble their efforts. One evening
Aginton and I each hired two of these vehicles,
and started them to racing with the promise of a
half-a-dollar to the winner. They went like the
wind for several blocks, until an abrupt tum was
reached, when a third jinrickisha tried to pass
between us. Our inside wheels collided with the
wheels of the vehicle which met us.

Farther India. 41
The momentum caused by the half dollar saved
us, but the other vehicle left its occupant astride
of the faithful runner, who was making an invol
untary salaam in the dust. Luckil)', there was no
one hurt, and a little silver soothed the irritated
runner ; whereas his cargo, a native, happened to be
in a comatose state produced by opium. Had said
passenger been in possession of his wits and a
" snickasnee," this tale might never have been told.
After our short stay at Penang the Tiasang con
veyed us across the Bay of Bengal, a hot sail of
six days. If we had been a day earlier we would
have encountered one of the severest typhoons ever
known on that coast. Several steamers had been
lost, one with 500 passengers on board. Our nar
row escape was wholly due to the seamanship and
experience of our captain, Davis, who is kno'wn as
"Typhoon Jack," having been through six typhoons.
When we were two days out he saw indications of a
typhoon, and shaped his course southward, and thus
entirely avoided the storm. Such a captain one is
not likely to forget. His extraordinary perception
of coming typhoons is said to amount almost to in
stinct; and since he must have felt the danger all

42 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
the time without disclosing it, we had reason to
feel especially grateful to him.
We went to the Great Eastern Hotel in Calcutta,
and as Mr. James was still with us, engaged a fine
suite of rooms on the first floor, where our meals
were served privately at a reasonable figure.

CHAPTER V.
CALCUTTA.
OUR stay in Calcutta was interesting, but very
hot. A good part of the time, when not out
seeing the sights or performing, was spent under
" punkas," or fans, reading or trying to sleep by the
aid of a coolie, who pulls a rope just outside the
door. For the first few nights even the punkas and
coolies did not promote sound slumber, for as soon as
we dozed off the coolie did likewise, and the punka
would cease its somniferous fanning. We would
then awaken and, learning the reason, become even
hotter than was necessary in our unintelligible ex
ecrations upon the whole tribe of coolies, and espe
cially upon the delinquent heathen in question. We
found out, finally, that by yelling " Punka Waller,
Bloody Sour " (which, being interpreted, means "pull
the punka, you bloody pig"), the lazy, black devil
would keep up the good work at least long enough
for us to get well into dreamland.

<:
iJ <:
2

Z <

Calcutta. 45
Each evening, from six to seven, we indulged in
a drive on the esplanade — a wide, beautiful street,
extending fully a mile along the banks of the
Hoogly River. This riverside drive is skirted with
handsome lawns and gardens, and every evening
fashion turns out in its finest livery to enjoy a pleas
ant respite from the day's heat. Teams drive back
and forth, and footmen seem in as hot competition
as to brilliancy and style of costume as do the fairer
occupants of the various turn-outs.
Band concerts make the esplanade a resort later
in the evening, when the 61ite promenade on the
lawns and in the gardens, and I imagine that flirta
tions are, on these occasions, as favored as they are
in our less torrid Riverside Drive.
On the Saturday after our arrival I accompanied
several Calcutta wheelmen on the esplanade with
my unicycle, and the sensation produced was won
derful. I forgot my natural diffidence at thus excit
ing the public gaze, when I realized what a grand
" ad " it was for our evening's first performance at
Dalhousie Institute. This Institute is a large club
house named after the pioneer Governor, Lord Dal
housie, and we met with a warm reception. Warm

46 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
is a good word for it, for at this and other perform
ances in Calcutta we found the heat very severe,
and wondered how the audience stood it so well.
Some of our sight-seeing at Calcutta was, perhaps,
more unique than pleasing. The first place we Ads-
ited was where the famous Black Hole was ; but it
wasn't there, and in its stead was a post-office.
We then attended a real old style funeral, con
ducted a little outside the city in a manner now
unlawful, and we had reason afterward to wish that
this ceremony had not been allowed. The remains
of the lamented were taken down on a litter to the
banks of the sacred Hoogly, placed on a wood pile in
a sitting posture and burned. The wood, drenched
in oil, favored combustion, and combined with other
stenches drove us from the "sacred spot." I
wouldn't attend another of these obsequies if I were
offered all the bicycles in Yankeeland.
In spite of the horror of this scene American
curiosity got the best of us, and the same after
noon we attended a " death trial," another word for
murder in the first degree. The Eden Musee isn't
" in it " with what we witnessed. This peculiar
caste of Hindoo, when a brother or sister becomes

Calcutta. 47
so ill that the doctors give up the case, have the
custom of taking the sick party down to their sub
limely sacred Hoogly, where are assembled the
friends and relatives of the patient. The nearer
relatives dig up sacred mud from Hoogly's sacred
bank, and stuff it with force of arms into the mouth
and ears of the invalid. If said invalid succumbs
to this treatment, he or she becomes a full-fledged
saint, but recovery means a loss of caste. Hence,
rather than have the family forever disgraced, the
relatives are anxious for the mud to do its dirty
work, and not unfrequently do they try to help along
matters by choking or strangling the patient. It is
needless to say that the poor creature we saw under
treatment was soon a saint.
A much pleasanter trip of ours was to the Botan
ical Gardens to see the eighth wojider of the world,
the great -Banyan Tree. This mammoth tree is
over loo years old, has 232 aerial roots, the distance
around which is 850 feet.
We rode our wheels right under it, and were just
in time to gain shelter from a heavy shower while
we examined its roots and speculated on the feasi
bility of giving our next exhibition under its ample

48 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
wings. These great wonders cannot be described,
but it would repay a man to go around the world
just to set eyes on this vast product of the soil.
In remarking on how the many branches had
taken root, Aginton said that the tree was like a
business that had grown so large that it had to have
numerous branch offices. It was long after we had
left India that I saw this joke.
A week later we played again at the Dalhousie In
stitute, with fair success ; and at the invitation of a
wealthy resident, who met us after the show, we at
tended a lawn party of his and did a few acts on the
lawn, to the especial delight of the children. The
same evening we started in the direction of Bombay,
arriving at Allahabad, a point about half-way between
the two cities. This was the hottest ride I ever ex
perienced. Mr. James had left the day before for
Rangoon, and Aginton and I missed him very much,
for the misery of a hot railway trip loves as much
company as it can get. We had to cross the holy
Hoogly and take a train at Honah, reaching Allaha
bad in about a day.
The cars in India are built on the English plan,
and every means is taken to make the passenger

Calcutta. 49
comfortable ; each compartment is furnished with a
toilet-room, with plenty of ice- water. The windows
on each side of the compartments are filled with a
sort of grass which holds the moisture. This grass,
or moss, is kept wet the entire trip, and just above
are little wind-wheels (something like the modern
electric fan), kept in motion by the force of the car ;
hence a good breeze is obtained, without which I
believe we would not have survived the journey.
Upon arriving at Allahabad we played the same
night at the " Railway Theater " to a small audience,
the sensible people in town knowing enough to stay
away when the glass registered 114. We retired
that night completely wilted, and did not get out till
late the next afternoon.
After one more attempt at the " Railway Theater,"
which was a hot and dismal failure, we took the train
and arrived at Bombay after a ride of about thirty-
six hours. It was much cooler there, as the monsoon
season was just opening and the city is located right
on the bay. In fact, by reason of the sea breeze,
Bombay is much cooler than Calcutta.

CHAPTER VL
BOMBAY AND POONAH.
WE made our headquarters at the " Esplanade "
Hotel, a large six -story building with balconies
all the way up, resembling our Southern hotels.
After " tiffin," we visited newspaper offices, and in
the evening a number of members of the Ramblers'
Bicycle Club called on us at the hotel and discussed
the best place for our opening.
By their assistance, we arranged to play at the
opening of The New Novelty Theater the following
week. In the meantime, Aginton went to Poonah,
about one hundred miles north of Bombay, and made
favorable arrangements for exhibitions there, while
I had a chance to practice the one-wheel act on a
wire. By the way, it took me an entire day before I
could find among the ironmongers a wire suitable for
this purpose, and after finding one I had it stretched
in the theater by permission of the managers.
These managers were Parsees, who form a large
and thrifty portion of the inhabitants of the city.

Bombay and Poonah. 51
and many of these sons of Persia are well educated
and agreeable acquaintances. They wear a long,
loose coat, usually black, and a tall, paper, black hat
of the " dunce cap " pattern. They are " sun wor
shipers," and have several small temples with altars,
on which fire is kept constantly burning.
Like the Calcutta Esplanade, there is a wide and
longer road along the shore which is excellent for
wheeling, and I enjoyed many a pleasant spin in
company with some of the Ramblers, whom I found
quite enthusiastic over cycling. A few days before
our opening, I went out on my unicycle — a thing
which always worked well as an " ad," — and as the
" wonderful feat " had been previously announced,
crowds lined the road to witness the act.
It was amusing to see groups of grim Parsees in
their high steeple hats gaze at me in open-eyed
wonder. It helped fill the house with somber fire
worshipers. In fact, our audience consisted prin-
ciply of Parsees, and their interest in cycling was so
awakened that I am informed that now these pecul
iar individuals are frequently seen wheeling in the
streets of Bombay. I would like to see one and have
a kodak with me.

52 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
The morning after our opening the newspapers
came out with a catchy head-line, "A Novelty of Nov
elties at the Novelty Theater," and the flattering no
tice helped fill the house for two more performances.
The next place visited was Poonah, a fashionable
resort which nestles high up among the mountains
one hundred miles from Bombay. On our way up
we passed through no less than twenty-nine tunnels.
But all the time, except when we were in the tunnels,
we looked out upon the most superb of mountain
scenery. Adding to the charm of hill and verdure
were hundreds of little waterfalls interspersed
throughout a sloping expanse of tropical scenerj'.
Then, too, as we went higher it became cooler — a
most refreshing change to one who has been doing
trick acts on a unicycle in a Bombay theater.
Oh ! cyclists, ye have had many hot runs ; ye have,
mayhaps, " scorched," and after that felt the relief of
a cold shower ; but for the quintessence of bodily
refreshment take a professional tour to Calcutta,
Allahabad and Bombay, and then ascend into the
cool atmosphere of a mountain fanned with breezes
and rendered doubly delightful by grand and pict
uresque scenery. This is paradise.

Bombay and Poonah. 53
But let us descend from this seventh heaven, for
we are now at Poonah, and must do some hustling
and practicing for the night's exhibition.
Our first performance was at the Gymkana Club
rooms. This club is supported by the 61ite of Poonah ;
handsome in its decorations and quite up to date in
all its appointments. It has a theater, ball-room, and
its grounds are laid out beautifully, with many tennis-
courts and an athletic field.
After a very satisfactory exhibition there we next
played at the barracks before an appreciative audi
ence of " Tommies," a pet name given to the Queen's
valiant and lazy soldiery. We then went down about
three miles to Kirkee, where there is a military sta
tion. At this place we performed on a lawn-tennis
court in the afternoon and at their theater in the
evening. As the stage was only 20x22, and as the
tennis-court was 78x42, the afternoon performance
was most to our liking.
What goes up must go down, so we descended
from this paradise into Bombay and decided to make
a little trip to the Himalayas witTi a Mr. Holmes,
of the American Associated Press, whom we had
met previously in Melbourne.

54 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
Taking the Indian Central Railway, a day's trip
through the heart (a warm heart, too,) of India
brought us to Delhi. Along the way, when the
perspiration did not cloud our vision, we beheld the
ruins of temples, palaces, and other edifices which
seemed to be a cross between the two. I remarked
to Holmes that these must be very ancient. " Of
course," interposed the dry Aginton ; " else they
wouldn't be ruins." Owing to this quietus I was un
able to find out how many thousand years old they
were. Holmes, the learned newspaper man, was a quiet
fellow, and seldom committed himself on matters of
history or antiquity. I presume he reserved his ex
pressions of knowledge to fill columns at space rates.
One interesting feature of the trip was the number
of flocks of peacocks strutting about like proud
princesses of the ruined palaces. These birds are
very tame. The natives never harm them, for next
to pigs, peacocks are to them the most sacred of
all living creatures.

CHAPTER VII.
A WHEEL ON AN ELEPHANT.
IN fact, the whole trip to Delhi was like a vast stage
of shifting scenes, and, like other shows, there
were comedians. Our little comedians were monkeys,
which ever and anon swarmed in trees, cutting up
capers, seemingly, for our special amusement.
From Delhi we went to M  , and, by especial
request, played at the Wheeler Club upon a tennis
court, and thence we proceeded by way of Umballa
to the little native village at the foot of the mount
ain, called Kalka. We put up at the Dak Bunga
low, which is the native's name for Hoffman
HSuse, and after dinner strolled out to view the
sunset. As it was just clearing off, and as a rainbow
was resting one of its bags of gold upon the mount
ain, side, the scene was gorgeous.
On our return we met in the street a retinue of
native women dressed to kill, and, beside a few
other things, each wore a broad smile. We learned
that they were coming from a wedding.

56 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
Our room at the Dak Bungalow was infested with
bats, as thick as flies — not comfortable room-mates
for nervous people. By keeping the doors closed,
and sweltering, we managed to keep tolerably free
from the little pests.
At 4 A. M. the Dak Bungalow night clerk yelled,
" Sabs ! Sabs ! " meaning, by Aginton's interpreta
tion, " Get up, you sleepy cyclists ; we've got to make
the beds ! "
After a hasty breakfast we started up the mount
ain in a " tonger," a little two- wheeled wagon with
white canvas tops, our cycles being strapped on
behind, artillery fashion.
By changing horses every five miles we made
good time. The view was delightful all the way ;
quite often we sighted a snow-capped peak in the
distance, and as we approached Simala it was exceed
ingly pretty to view the numerous white cottages in
terspersed among tall, stately pines; but the charm
was somewhat dulled when we got out at Simala
with limbs and joints stiff and lame from the jolt
ing of the springless tonger.
Simala is the Government Hill Station of India,
the seat of government during the hot months. It is,

A TVJieel on an Elephant. 57
therefore, a busy, fashionable resort, so that on apply
ing at the Rockwell Hotel we found it difficult to get
rooms. We remained there two days, but so much
was on the boards that we could not secure a suit
able date for playing. We called on Lord William
Barresford, who expressed a wish to see our perform
ance, but in consequence of the many engagements,
could not help us. So contenting ourselves with
sight-seeing, we turned our backs to the seat of gov
ernment and started for Kalka.
It was really wonderful how these horses go down
hill. They ran as if they were starving and were
sure of a bushel of oats at Kalka. Steep grades and
sharp curves only made the driver blow his bugle as
a warning for those coming up.
I timed them at one point and they covered two
miles in five minutes. On our way down we sighted
several leopards and two tigers — in the distance
(Allah be praised).
We arrived safely at Kalka, and, after a little re
freshment, left there at 11 p. m. amid a heavy rain.
All that night it rained pitchforks,' that is, if they
have them there. At any rate, by the time we
reached the low lands, what were before small

58 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
streams were now swollen rivers, rushing on with
angry currents, so strong that it was unsafe to cross
by means of bullocks which they had put in place of
the horses when we crossed before.
Here was a situation !
Should we let the horses do as did once the brave
Horatius, and " with their harness on their backs
plunge headlong in the tide ? "
No ; the natives have ways out of these difficulties.
In India they have no need of Brooklyn Bridges,
for they have elephants.
Aginton didn't like the elephant plan, for he said
that while they don't object to carrying trunks they
might not like a load of bicycles.
Well, we got out, waited a half hour in the pouring
rain, got drenched, and at last mounted a large-eared
Jumbo, bicycles and all. When those new-fangled
inventions touched the elephant's hide, I presume
all the serpents in the jungles of India hissed, and
many a leopard changed his spots.
But the elephant stood this sacrilege of civilization
without the aid even of a peanut.
The huge old fellow now proceeded to wet his feet
in the Rubicon without a pause at the brink.

A Wheel on an Elephant. 59
We were soon in mid-stream.
He would then often hesitate about proceeding,
and feel his way slowly with his huge paws.
We were all excitement, with our eyes now on the
cautious beast and now on the Hindoo, who sat just
behind his ears with a spiked club. But when the
elephant stopped, as he did several times, the Hin
doo did not use his goad, as we expected he would.
He told us that it would be unwise, for the cau
tious animal would not stop unless there was
danger, and any amount of urging would prove of
no avail if the elephant made up his mind that it
was dangerous to go on. Oftentimes they turn back
when the current is too strong, for their instinct tells
them that discretion is the better part of valor.

1

CHAPTER VIIL
DELHI.
N this manner we crossed several streams and at
last reached Umballa early in the morning, and
by train arrived at Delhi the evening of the same day.
Delhi is the largest native city of India, and was
once its capital. We had an opportunity of visiting
all the wonderful places which the perusal of histories
and the attendance of lectures give only a vague and
unsatisfactory glimpse of.
It would need the pen of a poet to describe the ex
quisite beauty and regal grandeur of the edifices of
Delhi, and the only course for me is to tell in prosaic
language what I saw during my few days' stay in
this marvelous metropolis of antiquity.
We first went through the palaces once occupied
by the kings of Delhi, very magnificent buildings
of white marble, with walls and ceilings inlaid
with precious stones, designed in outlines of birds,
flowers and vines. Some of the windows were of
latticed marble, and baths, furniture, bedsteads and

Delhi. 6 1
other furnishings were of finely carved marble, often
studded mth exquisite jewel designs.
We next visited the " Peacock Throne," too good
for any king to sit on — at least, if kings are as bad as
those I have heard of — for it was of white marble,
inlaid with sapphires and emeralds. It formed a
perfect likeness to the sacred peacock. Just below
was a beautiful porch where the king's subjects
were supposed to do obeisance, but where now the
English "Tommies" drink their brandy and soda.
These palaces and thrones are surrounded by a wall
guarded by soldiers.
We then went to the mosque, which occupied two
whole blocks, and in front of which is a court con
taining a large stone tank once used as a sacred bath.
We did not take a bath for there was no water in the
tank, but Aginton suggested that it would make a
good place for an exhibition if it were properly ad
vertised. Then we ascended the mosque tower and obtained
a most enchanting view — especially so to us, for
everything was new ; the palaces, the scenery, and
even the commonplace objects made an impression
never to be erased from our minds.

THE TAJ-MAHAL AT AGRA." (/.6^.)

Delhi. 63
The chief feature was the great pillar of Delhi,
which is only six miles from the city. We had a
good 'view of it from the mosque tower, and I regret
now that we did not have time to visit it.
Descending from the tower we were shown by a
native attendant to a little room under the tower.
The attendant kept unlocking vault after vault, like
the peels of a Bermuda onion, and at each unlock
ing the odor increased. At last he produced a tin
box in which was the remains of a slipper once worn
by the Queen of Delhi, 1300 years ago.
I have a dim recollection of seeing some Hester
Street jewels redolent of sandal wood, but as this
is a truthful narrative I will state that in my honest
opinion the whole thing was a fake.
The attendant showed us several other 1300-year
old fakes, and I had trouble in dragging Aginton
away, for he has a mania for anything plausible but
untrue. After visiting the museum in the Queen's Garden,
which is filled with many rare specimens of ancient
and modern curiosities, including gorgeous chains
worn by the kings of Delhi, models of palaces in
marble, and all kinds of stuffed birds and animals.

64 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
we returned to the hotel for tiffin, and in order to
keep cool spent the rest of the day under punkas.
That evening we left Delhi for Agra, arriving
early the next morning. There we visited the
famous Taj-Mahal memorial palace tomb on the
banks of the Jumna. It is surrounded by high
walls, and on each side is a mammoth gate of archi
tectural beauty; thus forming a large quadrangle
of unusual size and remarkably effective.
The Taj is a square building, with a dome at each
corner, and a large dome in the center of the main
roof. About one hundred feet from each comer of
the building are four towers, each 150 feet high,
each with a small dome. The walls inside and out
are decorated with designs similar to those we had
seen at the palaces, and on the tombs inside were
candles, kept burning. The Taj was built by King
Aakbar in memory of his wife, who died in 16 10.
It was completed in 1629, and tradition says that it
took 20,000 men to build it, at a cost, estimating
labor alone, of 50,000,000 rupees.
It was the King's intention to build another on the
opposite bank of the Jumna, but, like other people,
he died ; and, being dead, had to consent to a burial

Delhi. 65
place beside the Queen. The King also planned to
have an ivory bridge across the Jumna from the Taj
to his prospective tomb, but Father Time said it
wouldn't go.
The Peal Mosque next attracted us. It has a pal
ace inside and very much resembles the palace at
Delhi. Our guide took us underneath the palace
where it is said the royal family used to play hide
and seek, puss in the comer, bean bags and other
games ; but I imagine that if they played these
games they had sense enough to stay up-stairs, even
if they did break a little of the bric-a-brac.
We were allowed to examine the old gate of the
fort, about nine hundred years old, and also a beam
on which women who had committed adultery with
slaves were hung and then cut down and dropped
into the sacred Jumna

CHAPTER IX.
JODHPORE.
SURFEITED with sight-seeing we returned to
the Dak Bungalow for tiffin, and that evening
left for Tulara Junction, where we performed to
a small house in the Railway Institute. The follow
ing morning we took an early train for Jodhpore,
reached Hawah Junction and had to wait there two
hours. In order to satisfy the inner man we went through
the fields to a native bungalow, and there got a
little tea and bread, which was full of sand. After
this bountiful feast we continued our journey to
Jodhpore. We traveled all the morning in bad humor be
cause of the sand, and Aginton was especially irri
table. He, however, said that he had enough sand
in his neck to perform before anyone, even a Rajah.
It was a slow and tedious journey. The line was so
badly flooded that the water came up to the car floors,
and it seemed more like sailing than traveling by rail.

Jodhpore. 67
At last we reached Jodhpore at noon, and were
much relieved when we saw Mr. Guest, a half-caste
gentleman in the Rajah's employ at the station.
He escorted us to a bungalow where rooms had
been engaged for us, and we spent the rest of the
day, after tiffin, in clearing up and preparing for
the evening's exhibition.
Jodhpore is the capital of the state of Jodhpore or
Marwar, and has a population of 80,000, the largest
of any city in Rajpootana, Hindustan. We there
fore felt flattered at being received by Mr. Guest,
an agent of the Rajah, but perhaps not so much
flattered as relieved by the courtesy extended us.
After a substantial dinner the private secretary of
the Rajah called on us to make arrangements for
the exhibition before the Rajah. It was like a
preparation for a prize fight, for there was any
amount of parleying, and Aginton kept up a con
stant siege of questions and arguments pro and con,
which seemed to impress the private secretary with
our importance ; but the result of the conference was
that the secretary would let us kno'wn on the follow
ing day when the Prince of Jodhpore would conde
scend to gaze upon our humble performance.

68 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
That evening we went with Mr. Guest to the Maha
Rajah's palace, but, as anticipated, we did not see
His Highness. The palace is a two-story building
of white marble, with a broad veranda extending
entirely around it. Its interior furnishings are quite
elaborate, there being among other ornaments sev
eral large handsome oil paintings, the gifts of Queen
Victoria. Under the palace are a few private stables, in
which are stalled the Rajah's pet steeds. His High
ness has a passion for horseflesh, and it is claimed
that he possesses seven thousand in all. Those we
saw, honored with palatial stalls, were indeed fine
specimens. He is also possessed of the metal two-
wheel steed, as we afterward found out.
On the following day the private secretary again
called on us. He informed us that the Rajah would
be willing to give us an audience late that afternoon,
and that for our pleasure during the day a carriage
would be at our service if we cared to avail ourselves
of the opportunity of driving about Jodhpore.
We signified our desire to do so, and about half an
hour later a carriage with a fine team of black horses
drove up to the hotel entrance. Soon after we were

Jodhpore. 69
climbing the large hills in the center of the city,
and at last gained a magnificent view of the fortifi
cations, the throne and the surrounding country.
When we reached the entrance to the fort we
were compelled to stop and have our passes exam
ined by the commander-general. As soon as it was
seen that they bore the signature of the Rajah, the
general waxed extremely polite and escorted us all
over the fort, keeping up a voluble string of graphic
description the most of which was lost on our ears,
untuned to the jabbers of Hindustan. The grand
treat of the morning was the visit to the throne of
the Rajah, situated right in the center of the fortifi
cations. It is a gorgeous affair, with its furnishings cov
ered with silver and gold, and its walls inlaid with
gold, silver and precious stones, presenting as a
whole an ideal symbol of regal magnificence. From
the top of the fort we obtained an excellent view of
the city of Jodhpore, which is very thickly populated.
Not only is Jodhpore the largest ^city in Hindu
stan, but by the commanding position of its citadel,
it is by far the best fortified city in India, and to
us it appeared impregnable.

70 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
We drove back to the hotel for tiffin, and then
strolled about the city awaiting the time for ap
pearing before the august presence of the Rajah.
Aginton was a bit nervous, for, he said, " Who
knows ? this great Maha Rajah may be a little grouty
to-day from taking too much tabasco in his soup ! "
Six o'clock arrived, and we began our exhibition
at the palace before the royal family, royal secre
tary, royal bootblack, etc., etc., including a few
English people living in the city, whom the Rajah
had invited. The Rajah's eyes bulged out like fat
door-knobs with surprise at our tricks, and the rest
of the princely group were equally surprised.
We certainly put him in very good humor, for he
did the major portion of the applauding. In short,
we were more than pleased with the warm recep
tion we had received, and Aginton felt assured that
the Rajah's soup had suited him.
We were then escorted back to the hotel by the
private secretary, who informed us that the Prince
and all had been much gratified with our entertain
ment. An especial invitation was extended us by one of
the young Princes to make a visit to his palace.

Jodhpore. 7 1
situated about a mile and a half from the great
palace, in the eastern suburbs of the city.
Upon accepting this invitation we were surprised
and pleased at being shown a whole storehouse filled
with bicycles and tricycles. These wheels had been
specially built a few years before by the Coventry
Machinist Company of England for the Rajah's pri
vate use, and also for use in the military service of
the State of Jodhpore.
Many of these machines were very fine specimens,
but conspicuous among them was a large " Sociable "
or combination cycle, said to be the only one of the
kind ever constructed. [See illustration, p. 108.]
It was made expressly for the use of the royal
family, and would carry five persons. It had five
large wheels, with saddles attached ; the front wheel,
for steering purposes, being extra-large and placed
just in front of the other four.
After a good look at this curious affair, which
Aginton termed " The Royal Quinticycle," we were
shown through the interior of the palace, where we
found the elegance and grandeur quite on a par with
the princely decorations of the other palace. Re
turning to the bungalow we spent the remainder of

72 Trick' Cycling in Many Lands.
the day under punkas, engaged in reading and
writing, for the weather was intensely hot.
On the following afternoon, at the special request
of the Maha Rajah, we gave a second exhibition at
his palace before pretty much the same audience.
At this performance, we introduced the single and
double burlesque acts. These seemed to tickle His
Highness very much, which goes to show that even
royal blood may at times flow through a humorous
vein. At any rate, the next day we received a nice,
fat purse from the private secretary, and several
handsome souvenirs which we cherish highly. We
called on him that evening, in company with his sec
retary, to thank him formally for the presents and
the kind hospitality shown us during our week's stay
in Johdpore.
The same evening we took the train back to
Hanah Junction, on many accounts glad to leave,
for we knew that we must soon terminate our Indian
visit and start toward England. From Hanah Junc
tion we took the main line south, changing at Anne-
bad, whence by the Indian Southern Railroad we
reached Bombay, the trip taking in all about a day
and a half. Ariiving there on Saturday a. m., July

Jodhpore. 73
23, 1887, we went at once to the "Esplanade" for
breakfast and to ascertain if our baggage, which had
been left there, was safe. We also went to the
Novelty Theater to collect other paraphernalia, and
spent the rest of the day in making calls among the
friends we had previously made in the city.
On Sunday it rained in torrents all day, so that we
could not pay any more visits, as we had intended,
and relieved the monotony of the day with pack
ing our " duds." Monday, July 25th, after tiffin, we
(Aginton, Holmes and I,) started for the wharfs,
which are about two miles from the city, and at
3 p. M. sailed from Bombay on the Kaiser I Hind
of the P. & O. Line of steamers.

CHAPTER X.
ON SEVERAL SEAS.
WE left Bombay in the midst of the monsoon
season ; the weather was consequently rainy.
Seven long days against a head wind and on a
rough sea is not inspiring to any one. A good
many on board were sick, but it seemed as if I
had the lion's share of the misery. Aginton is
such a sea dog that our difference in this respect
seemed to rather please him ; yet I will give him
the credit for at least trying to suppress his
amusement at my utmost despair.
At any rate, owing to my condition I shall be able
to skip seven days' description of jolly sea life ; of
the musical swish of waves, the whirring of eager
Boreas through the foretopmast spinnaker of the
main boom, the continuous reefing of the foretop
gallant scuppers, and the splicing of the main brace
in the fo'castle. All these bits of nautical descrip
tion Aginton can work up at his leisure. Suffice it
to say that on August 2d we reached Aden,

On Several Seas. 75
Arabia, and that though my stomach was undeniably
empty my cup of joy was full to overflowing.
Xo passengers were landed at Aden, the only
reason for putting in at that point being to procure
a supply of coal. I believe, too, that we only took
on a small supply, for the very good reason, as I
heard the captain say, that coal was as high as
J^2 10s. per ton. It was evening when we got
there, and as Aginton, Holmes and I sat upon deck
and viewed the shore by moonlight it seemed rather
barren and desolate. The air that night was very
dry and warm, so we sat up till midnight and then
turned in on deck.
We awoke the next morning to find ourselves
steaming along the Gulf of Arabia, and about noon
entered the Red Sea.
The five days' sail through the Red Sea is usually
the hottest trip imaginable. The sea is generally
smooth, and the torrid sun pours down its rays with
out mercy, while the glassy surface of the water co
operates in inflicting suffering by reflecting the rays
back with nearly as great intensity. *A11 the after
noon extensive preparations -were made to protect
us in some measure from the expected heat. The

76 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
crew, who by-the-way were composed entirely of
Hindoos, were busy putting up double awnings over
the decks, and the officers supplied other comforts in
anticipation of the coming heat. Fortunately, how
ever, it did not turn out as bad as we thought it
would, so that the five days were spent in compara
tive comfort, and the calmness of the sea was to me
an especial boon.
Early on the following Sunday morning we sighted
the sand hills on the coast of Suez, but we did not
arrive there until the next morning at two a. m., Au
gust 8th. We anchored in the harbor, and a " ten
der " steamed out to receive the Brindisi mails and
the passengers who were going to continue their
journey via Alexandria across the continent.
That, indeed, was a sad time for me. Both Agin
ton and Holmes had determined to leave me at this
point and thence go across the continent. Alas ! I
could not dissuade them. I can remember now how
they looked as each stood before me on the deck at
that tender moment of departure. Holmes was
adamant ; his serious brow and Napoleonic bearing
seemed to say that he had " other worlds to conquer."
With " Aggie," however, it was different. We had

On Several Seas. 77
long been together ; we had experienced vicissitudes
in Australia ; basked in balmy breezes, eaten tabasco
in Bata'via ; together we had gazed upon the gilded
elephant of Singapore, ridden in jinrickishas at
Penang, sweltered at Calcutta and Allahabad. Often
had we been fanned by the same lazy coolie under
the same punka, and in unison vowed vengeance
upon the entire race. Then, too, we had seen with
the same unsophisticated eyes the wonders of Delhi ;
'with equally quaking breasts had we performed
before a Maha Rajah and marveled at his regal
palaces ; we had ascended the Himalayas, been
chased by tigers, frightened by leopards, hissed at
by the serpents of the jungle, and last, but not least,
we had ridden on the same elephant.
No wonder the parting was bitter and pathetic.
Did we weep ? I give it up, for just then the per
spiration was so fluent that even the saltiest tears
would have lost their flavor. We parted. Since
then I have never seen the sapient and stolid
Holmes ; but Aginton was soon with me again.
The Kaiser I Hind soon got up anchor and
started for the famous Suez Canal. The feeling of
loneliness soon wore off as I realized that I was

78 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
about to pass through the greatest thoroughfare of
modern civilization. It is not my place to describe
or enlarge upon this wonderful feat of civil engin
eering. Its history, its vicissitudes, its political
significance, and the grand results that commerce
and navigation have gained from it, are topics of
universal knowledge. I can only say that by
actually passing through it one becomes more im
pressed with the reality of the undertaking, and his
mind expands to a broader view of the world we
live in.
We reached the entrance of the canal early in the
morning, and it took a whole day to pass through it.
It is about thirty-four miles long and averages one
hundred feet in width, extending through a country
which is almost a desert. The only signs of life are
the little ports or stations along the banks at inter
vals of four or five miles, for the banks are in many
places composed of soft sand almost like quicksands,
and it is necessary to keep working at them all the
time in order to maintain the proper width of the
canal. During the day we passed several steamers, and
so narrow was the canal that one or the other of the

On Several Seas. 79
vessels was obliged to stop and draw up as close as
possible to the bank, so that the other could get by.
We reached Port Said after a run of sixteen hours
from Suez, which is pretty slow time, but I presume
it depends on the number of ships met.
A large number of us went ashore at Port Said
and " did the town." We found it especially noted
for its variety of dogs and women, the former being
well behaved. It is a great stamping-ground for the
"Jack Tars" who get shore leave and a little tin to
squander in the dance halls and other Bowery style
of resorts. The beer gardens were furnished with
female orchestras. In one place we were amused at
finding a sailor, who had evidently taken too many
splices in his main brace, trying to dance a hornpipe
upon the bar, much to the delight of the "ladies."
After this exhibition we concluded to return to the
good ship.

'BEFORE THE RAJAH." (p.^2.)

A

CHAPTER XI.
THE MEDITERRANEAN.
S we Steamed out on " the blue Mediterranean "
I could not help thinking that the Red Sea
had the most indigo in it. But I have no fault to
find with the classic Mediterranean, for it did not
ruffle up its surface nor my feelings once during the
voyage. Our first stop was at the Island of Malta,
where we arrived at about midnight. The captain
informed us that the boat would not leave until
8.30 the next day, so, many of the passengers, in
cluding myself, got up before five and went ashore
in gondolas. These gondolas are similar to those
in Venice ; they are twenty feet long and four feet
wide, with high arched bow and stern.
The whole island seems to be one vast fortifica
tion, and from the wharfs we had a steep climb up
to the fort. We first went up into the fort tower,
from which we obtained a delightful view of the
harbor and city, rendered especially pretty by the
tint of the rising sun. A poet or one learned in,

82 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
classic history would have lingered a long time, no
doubt, over this scene, and by so doing missed his
boat. It was therefore a case of unpoetic practical
haste that tore us away, for a glimpse of a few other
interesting objects.
The celebrated St. John's Cathedral did not ap
pear to me as grand architecturally as I expected,
yet I was greatly impressed upon entering it and
seeing the high altar and reredos, surmounted with
its immense crucifix, which is a marvel of the sculp
tor's art, A glance at the wonderful frescoes does
not suffice to form much of an impression, and I
have always regretted the necessary haste on this
visit to so wonderful a building.
We hurried on to the old Armory, and the first ob
ject which attracted our attention was the chimes on
top. There were three bells, one very large one
and a smaller one on either side. Back of them
stood three life-sized statues with hammers, by
which the bells were struck. Just what the mechan
ism employed was I had no time to examine. Upon
entering the Armory we took a little ride in the
famous coach which the Knights of Malta rode in
when they took the island in (I don't know when).

The Mediterranean. 83
It was a very old-looking affair, but I think I have
seen much worse looking hacks in America.
I do not think it did me a bit of good to get into
this famous vehicle, because, I suppose, I am not
sentimental enough ; yet in traveling with a party in
foreign lands there is always a lot of such nonsense
which has to be endured. I rather expected to be
shown an exact image of the original Maltese cat,
with a history of its nine lives engraved on its tail.
But no, it was most time to sail, and all we had time
to see was the old council chamber and dead loads of
old armor. In the council chamber I especially ad
mired the magnificent specimens of tapestry which
completely covered the walls and were worked with
large designs of biblical and other scenes. Many of
the figures in these tapestries were three or four times
life-size. The armor and other curiosities were in the
Armory proper. Some day I should like to go back
and have a good look at them, for on this occasion it
was only a flying glance and I couldn't tell whether
I was in Malta or a dime museum. »
We returned through the markets, to see if we
could see the girls of Malta, but the place was nearly
deserted. The few women we did see were dressed

84 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
a good deal like nuns, and it was not our fortune to
find among them any beauties. We reached the
steamer with only a few minutes to spare, but in
time to see several invalids taken on board. They
were cholera patients.
At 8:30 A. M. the Kaiser T Hind moved slowly out
of the picturesque harbor of Malta and turned its
prow toward Gibraltar. That evening at sunset we
sighted the island of Pantillaria. This island is about
three thousand feet high, and it was attempted once
to fortify it like Malta, but the plan was given up
owing to the difficulty in making a good harbor.
After three or four days of uneventful life on
shipboard we reached Gibraltar. The " stronghold "
looks handsome ,and majestic as it looms high above
the sea with its impregnable walls, sturdy and de
fiant. Numerous little dimples on its face tell of
many a fierce cannonade. We could only make our
observations from the deck, as our ship was flying the
"yellow flag." The English fleet of twelve men-of-
war, commanded by the Duke of Edinburgh, was at
anchor there, so that as a consolation for not landing
we had the opportunity of hearing some good music
from one of their marine bands. On we sailed into

The Alcditcrrancan. 85
the Atlantic, along the Portugal coast, and with
no incident worth relating arrived at Gravesend
August 23d. I took an early breakfast, went ashore,
and took a train for London, arriving there about
noon. I at once took an 'ansome for the Grand
Hotel, Charing Cross, and was soon figuratively
'wrapped in the embrace of the wayward Aginton,
who had arrived in London a week earlier.

CHAPTER XIL
A WEEK IN LONDON.
AGINTON and I spent the evening at the
hotel talking over our travels and making
business plans for the future. In the morning
we visited the Wheeling office, where we met sev
eral cyclists and found letters and papers from
the States. In the evening we went to the Royal
Agricultural Hall, at that time fitted up as the Ar
cadia Variety Gardens, under the direction of Harry
Etherington, the proprietor of the Wheeling Joiirnal.
Through him we made arrangements to practice at
the Westminster Royal Aquarium. The next day we
got some practice at the Aquarium, and in the even
ing gave a free exhibition to the representatives of
the principal journals of London, the result of which
was to introduce us pretty well to the press — a ver\-
important matter in such a large community. We
had in view an exhibition August 30th, at the London
Pavilion, which would be the test of our abilitv to
please a London house.

A Week in London. 87
In the meantime sight-seeing was not neglected.
Among other noted places, I visited the St. Paul's
Cathedral, whose architectural beauty and grandeur
is too marvelous for me to describe. Climbing up
into its great dome, I enjoyed a grand view of the
city. On coming down, I passed through the famous
" Whispering Gallery " and listened to a short talk
about the Cathedral by one of the attendants, who
whispered against the opposite wall of the gallery
the following words, as nearly as I can recall them :
" It took thirty-five years to build this cathedral, and
cost ^1,500,000. There are six hundred steps from
the main floor to the dome. From the ground to the
top of the cross of the dome — you will please con
tinue on around to the right and I will show you the
way up to the dome." I didn't see why I should
take another trip up-stairs, so unheeding the advice,
I passed down and returned to the hotel. Of course
I could never return home and have the face to say
that I had been in London and failed to visit the
famous Tower. So I set apart an afternoon for this
purpose, and was well repaid for it. On entering
the Tower, I first passed the Traitor's Gate, then I
came to the "Jewel Room," which seemed about

88 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
forty feet square, yet the glass cases containing the
jewels occupied so much space that there was only a
narrow path left to walk in. The sight of the large,
gorgeous stones and jewelry made me feel so poor
that I hurried on into the Armory. There I exam
ined with great interest the armor and relics, all of
which had some significance with reference to cen
turies past, and I regretted that my English history
lessons had been so carelessly studied in my school
days. An object especially interesting to me was
the stone on which Queen Anne was beheaded,
although I looked in vain for any traces of royal
blood on it. Next I went into the " Tower," where
the royal prisoners used to be confined. Upon its
walls still exist inscriptions and car-vings, made by
the prisoners during their confinement.
Having done the Tower in good shape, I went
down to the "Monument of London," which was
erected over two hundred years ago in memory of
the great fire. It is two hundred and twenty feet
high, and its walls are so crumbled that it seems a
wonder how it stands.
That evening, on returning to the hotel, I had the
pleasure of meeting a Mr. Ascher, who, too, had

A JVeek in London. 89
recently arrived from Bombay. I spent a pleasant
hour with him chatting about India, and as he was
well-informed I gained a great deal of valuable
knowledge from him about the country and its gov
ernment. The evening for our first performance at the
Pavilion arrived and we were somewhat excited as
to what success we would attain. We were given
the fourth number on the programme, and Aginton
appeared first in his roller-skating act. I followed
'with my unicycle and other acts, and was surprised
at the warm reception, and especially at being called
before the curtain.
During the early part of September very little oc
curred worthy of mention. We went to Westminster
Abbey, attended service in the quaint little chapel,
and after service passed through the chapels of St.
John, St. Andrew and St. James. I was much im
pressed with the monument of " Lady Nightingale's
Death," which represents her dying in the arms of
her husband, while he is trying to drive away the
approaching skeleton of death.
About the middle of September I went to the
Gaiety Theater and called on Mr. Sheridan, of "Fun

90 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
on the Bristol." I had previously met him in Aus
tralia. Through him I became, for a short time, a
real actor, for I was engaged to appear in the con
cert scene in this play. It was only a week's en
gagement at the Gaiety, and I did not fancy the
work much, for they gave me a very small space
on which to perform ; and, furthermore, it was car
peted, so that my wheel ran very hard. On the
Sunday after this engagement ended, Aginton and I
visited the Kew Gardens, which are located in the
western part of the city, about six miles from the
center. The gardens are charmingly laid out right
on the banks of the Thames, yet they did not seem
to me equal to the botanical gardens which we vis
ited in Australia and Java.

CHAPTER XIIL
THE AMERICAN TEAM OF CYCLISTS.
CIRCUMSTANCE is a powerful influence in
determining the course of a man's life A
cyclist like myself, depending for the success of his
exhibitions upon his prominence before the com
munity in which he happens to be, finds himself in
a great measure influenced by the daily events
and by many things which at the outset he little
dreamed of. At first I was associated with Rob
inson, than it was to my interest to form a partner
ship with Aginton ; now in London new interests
began to arise and from a source least contemplated
by me. The change in my indefinite plans came
about in a curious yet not unnatural manner.
About the first of October I met Mr. W. J. Mor
gan, the successful manager of " The American
Team of Cyclists." In a conversation with him at
dinner he advanced the idea of my joihing the team,
and said that he thought that the racing events
would prove more attractive by the introduction,

92 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
of some scientific riding. A day or two afterward,
while visiting Col. Cody's great Wild West Show, I
met Morgan again, and he introduged me to Beards-
ley and Woodside of the American Team. The
same day I went out to Leicester to watch them
train, and became quite interested in their work.
The following day I accompanied them to Coventry,
visited the Rudge Cycle Co. and the office of the
Cyclist, the leading cycling journal of England.
In this way I became associated with the team, and
finally decided to join, making satisfactory arrange
ments with Mr. Morgan.
At Coventry, Woodside and I took occasion to
visit many of the interesting landmarks of this
antique town which " Peeping Tom " has made
so famous in history. We went to St. Mary's Hall,
built in 1390, and visited the chamber where Mary
Queen of Scots was so long imprisoned. Among
other ancient curiosities we saw the pawn ticket
which the Duke of Clarence once held for his watch
in the year 1024, supposed to have been the first in
stance in which the " Uncle " came to an English
man's aid. We also examined the picture of Mary
Queen of Scots, valued, I believe, at ^^5,000. After

The American Team of Cyclists.

93

this bit of sight-seeing we returned to Leicester, and
the following day went out on the track to train
with the team, I having received a new Rudge wheel
for that purpose.
The arrival of Ralph Temple, the flyer of the Amer
ican Team, placed us in readiness for the coming
competition, and two days later occurred the ten-mile
lap race between Woodside and R. Howell, the Eng
lish champion, and a handicap in which Temple was
entered. Woodside won his race and Temple was
victorious in the handicap. Between the events I
gave my exhibitions. It was a great day for Amer
ican victories, and the team felt very much encour
aged. The next week was occupied in filling an engage
ment with Aginton at the Canterbury Music Hall,
London, and after this Aginton gave his last per
formance with me at Coventry on the bicycle track
in conjunction with a ten-mile race between the
American and French teams. Aginton then bid us
good-bye and left for America.
In order to keep up the double act exhibitions I
then began practicing with Temple, who was so
adept a cyclist that after a short time we were

94 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
enabled to perform very creditably, and as we
practiced daily we improved accordingly.
The next move of the team was for Aberdeen,
Scotland. Upon arriving there we put up at the
Waverley Hotel, where we found the table board ex
cellent. Every one on the team was delighted with
this cozy little hostelry, and with the homelike, well-
cooked meals. We practiced frequently in the Bon
Accord Hall, where there was a twelve-lap bicycle
track. Knowing that Riddell's father was in Aberdeen I
went to see him, to find out the whereabouts of my
old friend. I learned that his last letters placed him
back in San Francisco.
By some good advertising Morgan had created a
good deal of interest in the Granite City over a race
to take place in Bon Accord Hall between Temple
and Lumsden, of Aberdeen, the Scottish champion,
at which I was to give my exhibition.
It was a ten-mile match, and as it took place on a
Saturday night the whole town of Aberdeen seemed
to be there. It was a regular howling mob, and
the shouting and cheering of the clans was deafen
ing. It was a good-natured mob, though, for when

77!^ American Team of Cyclists. 95
Temple came in ahead they cheered the "bonny
little Yankee lad " quite lustily.
I had many a pleasant stroll in and about Aber
deen, and had an opportunity to become somewhat
acquainted with the inhabitants. At first I did not
fancy the Scotch character on account of their
brusqueness and rather obtuse minds ; but as I be
came better acquainted I found them not only inter
esting but also of a naturally generous and hospit
able nature. I have often thought that if they
had retained the old custom of wearing kilts, what
a famous bicycle costume it would make.

ABERDEEN PIER. (/(. 99.)

CHAPTER XIV.
ABERDEEN PIER.
WHILE we were at Aberdeen an incident
occurred which had no direct connection with
the tour of the American team, but which was a
memorable event in my career as a cyclist. It was
the ride I took upon the sea wall of the North
Pier before a large number of witnesses. The
feat has received so much comment iil the press,
both at home and abroad, that I think it an obliga
tion to my readers and friends to give here the full
details of this " perilous (?) ride." On Sunday morn
ing all of us went down to the North Pier to see the
famous sea wall, which it was said Temple had rid
den, although I think that he afterward admitted
that he did not. On that occasion Temple took pains
to call my attention to the narrowness of the wall
and offered to bet that not another rider in the world
would have the courage to attempt it, adding that he
himself would not be tempted to perform the feat
again. My only reply to this was that it seemed to

98 Tiick Cycling in Many Lands.
me quite possible to ride the wall on a single wheel,
whereupon Temple said that he would make me a
present of ten pounds if I would do it. I then told
him I would try it.
A few days later Woodside and I again went down
to the pier to make a private trial with the single
wheel. There were only a few old fishermen about,
so that our maneuvers were quite unobserved.
Woodside mounted one of the iron-cased lamps which
are attached to the side of the wall and held the
wheel for me. I mounted, and as soon as I got well
balanced he gave me a little start and I wheeled
along for several yards and then dismounted. From
this experiment I felt assured that the feat could be
accomplished, although I realized that it would re
quire all the nerve and skill I could summon. We
then returned to the hotel.
That evening I had to give my exhibition again at
the Bon Accord Hall, but early the next morning
Woodside and I called on a Mr. Morgan, an Aber
deen photographer, and made arrangements to have
him bring his camera down to the pier that after
noon ; then we took an early dinner and set out for
the pier in company with Morgan, Temple and

Aberdeen Pier. on
Patrick, our trainer. The report that I was to
attempt to ride the sea wall had by that time got
well circulated, so that soon after we reached the
pier about a hundred people assembled there to
watch us, and very few of them had any faith in the
success of the experiment.
After a little delay the photographer stationed his
camera on the wall, so as to take me as I ap
proached him. Temple stood on the wall a little
back of me, with his hat, coat and shoes off and a
rope tied around his waist, ready to jump in after
me in case I fell. A fisherman held the other end
of the rope. By-the-way, the wall is twenty inches
across the top, twelve feet above the pier, and
twenty-five feet above the sea— a rather ticklish
position for a man on a single wheel. Woodside
started me as before, and I rode along a distance of
about one hundred feet, not dismounting until I
reached the spot where the camera was stationed.
The result was a surprise to all, except, perhaps,
Woodside, and the Aberdeen evening papers con
tained glowing accounts of " The Wonderful Ride."
Herewith is an extract from the Evening Express,
Aberdeen, Tuesday, October i8, 1887 :

loo Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
" REMARKABLE CYCLING FEATS.
" A remarkable performance was executed by
Maltby, of the American team of bicyclists at pres
ent in Aberdeen, yesterday afternoon. Maltby, in
presence of a large number of spectators, rode upon
a one-wheeled cycle along the wall of the North
Pier. His progress from the point of the pier to its
upper end was one which showed exceptional daring
and skill. During the journey a boat was in attend
ance in case of the rider losing his balance and fall
ing into the sea, but fortunately he accomplished
the surprising feat in an astonishingly short time,
without a single hitch. This afternoon Mr. W. S.
Maltby rode on a unicycle — which is just the large
wheel of a bicycle — from the Lighthouse on the
North Pier along the sea wall to the upper end of
the pier, which is the second time he has accom
plished the feat. While working his waj"- along the
top of the sea wall, Maltby and his machine were
photographed by Mr. Morgan, of Market street.
There were about three hundred people present,
who gave the daring and skillful cj-clist three ring
ing cheers when he finished his feat. ^Maltby was
dressed in light racing costume, so as to be able to

Aberdeen Pier. lot
swim, in the event of his falling into the sea ; and
Morgan, Temple and Woodside were at hand to give
assistance, in the event of its being required. A bet
of five pounds was on the feat, which of course was
gained by jMaltby."
We remained in Aberdeen until Sunday, October
23d. On Saturday evening our last event was a ten-
mile race between Aberdeen men and Temple, in
which Temple fell and broke his wheel, thereby
losing the match. We packed up on Sunday and
left for Edinburgh. It was a delightful trip, and the
Highland scenery was especially fine, owing to the
autumn tint of the foliage. During the week our
time was taken up by the six days' race, which
commenced Monday, at 2 p. m., in the Waverley
Market. Temple and I gave exhibitions each after
noon and evening in fancy riding in an inclosure in
the center of the building. In the mornings, how
ever, I had time to look about the city. The streets
are very picturesque, especially Princess street, on
one side of which are, for seveifal miles, fine build
ings, and on the other side parks, or gardens, situated
on the banks of a pretty river. On the opposite
bank of the river the grand Castle Hill towers up a

102 Tritk Cycling in Many Lands,
hundred feet above the city. The parks contain
miniature lakes and streams, and near the street
stands the monument of Sir Walter Scott. Later
in the week Woodside and I spent a morning at the
old Castle and visited the " Jewel Chambers," where
the royal jewels and ancient crowns are kept. We
also examined the mammoth cannon on the top of
the wall overlooking the city. This cannon was
forged at Mons, Belgium, in i486, and taken to the
Tower of London in 1497, where it remained until
1829, when it was restored to Scotland. I have
always regretted that during our week in Edinburgh
the time was so taken up with the six days' race
that sight-seeing was almost out of the question.
At the final of the great race there was hardly
standing room. The two men left in the race were
Dubois and Lumesden, and as the end drew near the
excitement grew intense. Just before 10 o'clock
came the final spurt, and Lumesden won by a yard.
He won, however, by jockeying, for the track was
only twelve feet wide, and at each corner he ran out
so wide on the track that Dubois could not get room
to pass him.

CHAPTER XV.
BACK TO FOGGY LONDON.
ON the morning following the six days' race
Manager Morgan and the " team " left for
London, but Temple and I made an early start for
the "Fair City of Perth." Dubois, the French cy
clist, afterwards joined us at the Salutation Hotel.
For two evenings we gave exhibitions to good houses
at the Town Hall, and then left for " Bonnie Dun
dee." Just before reaching the city we had a de
lightful view of the picturesque scenery along the
banks of the River Tay, and also of the famous
bridge across the Tay, which is two miles in length.
On our arrival we were met by several Dundee
wheelmen, who escorted us to Mather's Hotel, and
after dinner they took us to Kinnard Hall, where we
gave a short exhibition for the benefit of the press.
We here gave two evening performances with fair
success, and Saturday left for Forfar, a quiet little
Scotch town noted principally for its confectionery
manufactories. A ten-mile race had been arranged

104 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
on the Forfar track between Douglas, a resident
cyclist. Temple and Dubois, while I was to give an
exhibition on a platform in the center of the course.
The track was in wretched condition, and, besides
other defects, one side was about fifteen feet hif-her
than the other, so that the race amounted to a climb
up and a coast down. The event was easily won by
Temple, with Dubois second. In the evening we
exhibited at Ried Hall, after which we packed up
and left for London.
We were just in time to prepare for another six
days' race. This race was a novel and rather amus
ing one. It took place at Agricultural Hall, between
the American team and two of Buffalo Bill's cow
boys mounted on broncos. Such a novel match, of
course, brought out crowds of people each day, and
on the final evening there were twenty thousand
spectators present. Temple and I gave exhibitions
of double and single fancy riding each afternoon
and evening while the race was in progress. The
cowboys finally won.
The next week occurred the "World's Athletic
Carnival," given by the American team at the same
place. This occupied a week, and consisted of short

Back to Foggy London. 105
bicycle races, foot races, boxing, fancy riding, etc.,
etc. It was by no means as successful as the per
formances of the preceding week, due partly to the
disagreeable London fog which prevailed the entire
time: I remember on one day in particular the fog
was so dense that lights were used in the streets
and houses, and in the middle of the day drivers
were obliged to lead their horses with torches.
At the last performance of the " Carnival " I un
fortunately ran into a railing, while returning to
my dressing-room after my exhibition of burlesque
riding, and bruised my thigh so badly that for a fort
night I was almost a cripple.
The following week. Temple and I went to Cardiff,
'w^here we were advertised to play at Colonial Hall.
I managed to get through three performances that
week, but when Sunday came my game limb was
in bad shape, although I could walk without incon
venience. On the Monday following we visited the
old Stuart Castle and were shown through the
new Bute Castle, going up into the* tower, which was
elaborately finished in marble. The next day we
went to Swindon, where I was advised by a doctor to
lay up for a day or two, but on Thursday I managed

io6 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
to perform after a fashion, and then went by way of
London to Newcastle-on-Tyne. Here we met Mor
gan and the rest of the team. I discovered that my
knee-cap and the main leader of my thigh were off,
and at once went to a surgeon, who nearly killed me
in pulling them into place and then informed me
that I must lay up for several days. He was aston
ished when I told him that I had been performing
right along in such a condition. My stay at New
castle was too doleful a subject for much comment.
I was allowed by my doctor to perform twice, but I
did not feel the same confidence in my work, which
was natural, after suffering from an ailment so ad
verse to my vocation.
Christmas week we joined Morgan and the team
at Birmingham, and the name made me wish that I
was spending Yule-tide in my New England Bir
mingham instead. A faint recollection of homesick
ness makes me pass hastily over two performances
there and a more successful one the next week at
Luton, whence we returned once more to dear old
smoky London.
Of course, my trip would not be complete -without
visiting Paris, and fortunately from our acquaintance

Back to Foggy London. 107
¦with Dubois, Temple and I were invited to visit
him, an in-vitation which we gladly accepted. We
made a three days' visit to the gay city, enjoyed the
hospitality of Dubois and had a panoramic view of
the city, and visited its many resorts, where fun,
music and frivolity were the paramount features.
After this vision of grand opera, bal-masques, caf^s
and twelve-course dinners, we found ourselves again
in London, and thence we again went to Birming
ham to give our exhibition in connection with an
other cowboy six days' race which had been ar
ranged by Morgan.

CHAPTER XVI.
THE CONCLUSION.
OX the Sunday follo'wing the exhibition at Bir
mingham, Dubois and I left for London en
route for Paris. We arrived in Paris at 5 a. m Mon
day, and the same evening I performed with fair
success at the Folies Bergeres, yet they did not afford
me time enough to do full credit to my exhibition.
The next day I went, in company with Mr. H. O.
Duncan (fifty-miles world's champion, 1885-6), both
to the Folies Bergeres and to the Nouveau Cirque,
and as the Nouveau Cirque made the highest bid, I
accepted an engagement with them for two weeks.
During this engagement I made a good "hit," which
made me feel that my time in Paris had not all
been consumed in the gaieties of that metropolis.
My last night (January 15) at the Nouveau Cirque
was a memorable one, for after our exhibition we
had the rare pleasure of attending a bal masque at
the Grand Opera. At this great social event the
superb Opera is clothed in the richest decorations,

no Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
and the lights, costumes, music and merry masque-
raders present an embodiment of all that is beautiful,
gay and fashionable in Paris. The most gorgeous
scene of all is the grand march, which winds down
the magnificent stairway with grace and imposing
beauty. This charming sight kept us entranced until
dawn ; but after a long sleep we attended services at
the Madelaine and a matinee at the Nouveau Cirque.
The next day I bid Duncan and Dubois good-bye
and started back to London. There I met Temple,
and at his invitation spent the rest of the week mak
ing calls and preparing for my homeward passage.
At Liverpool I was met by Mr. Mason, of the Rudge
Company. He entertained me until the departure of
the steamer City of Chicago, on January 28th.
Nothing especial occurred during the trip of eight
days, and, fortunately for me, on this voyage the
weather was fair all the way, and I did not suffer as
much as one crossing of the English Channel had
caused. We reached New York February 4th, 1888,
at 4 p. M., and I was met by my brothers Arthur
and Robert, who escorted me home to Birmingham
Conn., where I was tendered a large reception. Thus
ended my tour of the world.

The Conclusion. i n
It would be hardly modest for me to describe the
hearty greeting given me by the citizens of my native
town, but, in conclusion, I add a newspaper para
graph which I find in my scrap-book :
" BRILLIANT RECEPTION GIVEN TO W. S. MALTBY, THE
WORLD-RENOWNED BICYCLIST.
" Despite the inclemency of the weather Saturday
evening, the ovation in honor of our young towns
man, W. S. Maltby, on his return from foreign lands,
where he distinguished himself as excelling all others
in the mastership of the bicycle, was all that could
be expected or desired. A large number of our citi
zens, anxious to do honor and to show respect to the
'youthful hero,' were on hand on the arrival of the
8 p. M. train to escort him to his home, from which he
had been absent for upwards of two years. As the
train stopped and the face of Mr. Maltby appeared
upon the platform, a cheer arose in the throng that
had gathered that startled the other occupants of the
train. The crowd fairly conveyed him to the car
riage in waiting, where, joined by Warden Beardsley
and others, a procession was formed, headed by the
Echo brass band. Red-fire and roman candles gave
brilliancy to the occasion, and when the bridge was

112 Trick Cycling in Many Lands.
crossed the enthusiasm of the crowd and the blaze
along the principal streets of bonfires, rockets and
red-fire, has seldom been exceeded in this locality.
"Before the escorting party dispersed young
Maltby appeared upon the piazza of his home and in
a few well-chosen words thanked the assemblage for
the honor bestowed upon him by the kindly and
unexpected ovation which had been tendered. He
remarked that ' I have been accorded many cordial
receptions in foreign lands, but nothing to compare
with my welcome home. I would be glad,' he said,
' to give settle account of my travels, which might be
of some interest to you, but the weather and the
hour is hardly suited for that.' Again thanking them
for their kindness, he retired to the house amid deaf
ening cheers."
I would not give my affidavit that all occurred as
above, for the occasion was wrapped in oblivion save
the recollection of my joy at reaching home.

FINAL.E.

Keating

SEE THAT CURVE?"

Falcon

"SWIFT AS THE BIRD!'

Crescent

"SKY-HIGH."
l_)istrilDtj.cing Agents
No. I Park Place,
NEW YORK.

Maltby Cycling Academy,
125th street and 7th Avenue.
One of the best appointed Schools in the country, and the only one for
scientific and fancy riding. Open daily from 9 A.M. to 10 P.M.

TH^RXir MALTBY & ROBLEY,
Proprietors.
Write for descriptive Catalogue and Circular.

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

3 9002 03097 7665

;

,1 I,

* I.