mA'^' ,'¦';=¦ "•""¦ AND Snows '••. . li illllHHK. !H!i mmm. — ' — — ^ IlliliiilillliiililliiJilillillliliiiiillill YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY FROM THE COLLECTION MADE BY CHARLES SHELDON B.A. 1890 OF BOOKS ON NATURAL HISTORY EXPLORATION • HUNTING & FISHING GIFT OF FRANCIS P, GARVAN B.A. 1 897 TROPICS AND SNOWS A TROPHY OF THE CHASE. TROPICS AND SNOWS A RECORD OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE Captain REGINALD G. BURTON INDIAN STAFF CORPS AND LATE OF THE 1ST WEST INDIA REGIMENT ILLUSTRATED BY MISS CLARE BURTON FROM PHOTOGRAPHS AND FROM SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR LONDON EDWARD ARNOLD (puSfw^er fo f?e 3n6ta dffice 37 BEDFORD STREET, STRAND i8q8 MY FATHER General E. F. BURTON AUTHOR OF KEMINISCEXCES OF SPORT IN INDIA THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED PREFACE The author's acknowledgments are due to the proprietors of The Field, Land and Water, and The Asian, in vi^hich publications some of the matter contained in the following pages has ap peared. Junior Army and Navy Club, St. James's Street, Se-pt. 1898. COJ^TEl^TS CHAPTER I JAMAICA TAGE Voyage of the Moselle— The Azores— Rough Weather — Fatal Accident — A Derelict — Fellow-passengers — Sombrero — The Cradle of our Sea-power — A Procession of Heroes — Rodney's Victory — Nelson — The Spaniards — Buccaneers and Pirates — Henry Morgan — Jamaica Riots — St. Thomas — A Waterspout — Puerto Rico — Haiti and San Domingo — Fires on the Island — Tortuga — Port-au-Prince — A Blood stained History — Cannibalism — Unfitness of Blacks for Self-government — Jamaica — Fort Augusta — Port Royal — The Panama Canal — Kingston — Up Park Camp — The West India Regiments — Newcastle — The Blue Mountains — Fauna of Jamaica — Game Birds — Spanishtown — Johnny Crow — Other Birds — Rock Fort — Oysters growing on Trees — Sharks — Vendor of Curiosities 1 CHAPTER II BARBADOS Voyage of the Don — Jacmel — St. Lucia and St. Vincent — Barbados — Physical Features of the Island — Climate — Denizens of the Deep — An Alligator — Bridgetown — The Ice-House — St. Anns Barracks — Behaviour of the Troops — Sir Charles Pearson — Hastings Rocks — The Negroes — Mulattoes — The Sugar Trade — Abolition of Slavery — Hurricanes — Earthquakes — The Winds of God — Sport on the Island — Indigenous Birds — Migratory Birds — Fishing — Voyage to England 21 CHAPTER III THE PUNJAB Voyage of the iJoMfa — Bangalore — Multan — Country and Climate — The City — Murder of two English Ofiicers— X CONTENTS PAGE Quail-shooting — Grey Cranes — The Chenab — On the March — Shershah — Crossing the River- Ships ofthe Desert — A Dreary Country — Dera din Pana — Leia — Suleiman Mountains— Duck - shooting— The Indus— Dera Ismael Khan— Sheik Budin— A Mirage — The Kurrum River— Wild-fowl at Narang Serai— Bunnoo— Frontier Robbers— Kohat— The Commander-in-Chief— The Kohat Pass — Peshawar — Climate— Fruit Gardens— The City— The Jhelum Salt Range— Sport on the Cabul Eiver— Sport near Aimal Chabutra — Chamkanni — Extremes of Heat and Cold— Rawal Pindi— Murree— View from the Moun tains-Fort Jamrud— A Dust Storm— The Khyber Pass- Colonel Warburton— Historic Ground— Aii Masjid— The Afridis— Landi Kotal— Frontier Warfare— Ferozepore — Native Method of shooting Antelope— Sport on the Sutlej River — Great Bag of Wild Geese — Crocodiles ... 33 CHAPTER IV KASHMIR Journey to Kashmir — Road to Kohala — The Jhelum River — The Happy Valley— The Wular Lake— March up the Mountains — Camp in the Snow — An Avalanche — Moon light March — Valley of the Kishengunga — Gurais — Ibex — View from a Mountain Pass — Prom Tilail — The Satai Nullah — Bear shot in the Zadgai — Red Bears — Sheep- killing Bear — Bear missed — Keen Scent of Bears — Two Bears seen — Another Bear — Ibex chased by Ounce — Mist on the Mountains — A Mountain Tarn — A Cunning Musk- deer — Four Bears seen — In the Clouds — Snow-leopards , 56 CHAPTER V KASHMIR — (contimied) Charge and Death of a Bear — Ferocity of Bears — Jackal killed by an Ounce — One Bear killed, another missed — Bad Luck — Bear and Cubs sighted — Desperate Climb — Death of two Bears — Bear in a Sheej^fold — The Heights above Bernai — A Herd of Ibex — A Bear killed — Night in a Cave — Return to Gurais — Musk-deer — More Bears — Length of Red Bears — Return to the Valley — Black Bear shot at MuUingaon^ The Lolab Valley — Voyage to Srinagar — The Venice ot the East — Bridges in Srinagar — Horrible Slums — Kashmiris — The Chenar Bagh — Flight of Importunate Merchants — The Dal Lake — Life in a House-boat — Unsuccessful Search for Black Bears — Colonisation of Kashmir — Mountain Villages — The Preservation of Game — Return to India . . 69 J CONTENTS xi CHAPTER VI BERAR Geography and History of the ProN'ince- The Mahrattas— The ''*'"'• Korkus — Malarial Fever— The Hyderabad Contingent — Climate of Berar — Education in India — The Satpura Hills — Game in the Satpuras — Fauna of Berar — Ellichpur — Scor pions and Snakes — Chikalda — Gawilgarh — Extract from AVellington's Despatches — Muktagiri — Antelope-shooting — Great Bustard — Wolves — Man-eating Pack of Wolves — Gazelle- shooting — Barking Deer — Foiir-horned Antelope — A Jungle Pool 88 CHAPTER VII BERAR — [continued) Wild Dogs — Panthers near Ellichpur — Habits of Panthers — Methods of shooting them — Death of a Panther — Mode of killing Prey — Man-eating Panthers — A Midnight Vigil — Panther Cub — A Wounded Tigress — Expedition to the Melghat Forest — Charge of a Bear — Death of a Bear and Cub — A Fierce She-Bear — Lesser Civet Cat — Panther shot — Bear visits my Camp — Two Bison shot — Ratels — Bear killed — Panther in the Camp — Wild Dog shot — Watch for a Panther — Eclipse of the Moon — Night Shooting — ^Bison killed by Tiger — Sand-grouse Shooting — Duck at Darberi Pardis — Cruelty of Natives — Voyage of the Crocodile. . 105 CHAPTER VIII JOURNEY TO RUSSIA — MOSCOW Return from Exile — Dead Sea Fruit — Voyage of the Guadal quivir — Marseilles — Stromboli — Scylla and Charybdis — Etna — The Gulf of Salamis — Quarantine — The Rock of Xerxes — The Acropolis — Quarantine Island — Fellow- passengers — Pirfeus — Collision with a Greek Vessel — Athens — Visit to the Acropolis — The Areopagus — Stormy Weather — Smyrna — The Dardanelles — The Sea of Mar mora — The Golden Horn — Constantinople — The Mosque of St. Sophia — The Bazaar — Pera and Stamboul — The HaU of the Thousand and One Columns — The Bosphorus — The Black Sea — The Isle of Serjients — Odessa — Journey to Moscow — The White City — Life in a Russian Family — AVinter in Moscow — The Kremlin — The Belfry of Ivan the Great — The Palace of Arms — The Great Bell — Theatres — Beggars — Skating — The Streets of Moscow — Country Life — The Sparrow Hills — Passports — Entry of Alexander in. — Police Precautions — Plot against the Tzar — Murder of a Nihilist — Student Revolutionists 125 xii CONTENTS CHAPTER IX WHITE RUSSIA — RUSSIAN LITERATURE PAGE Visit to White Russia— Borodino— Smolensk— Journey in a Sleigh— A Russian Country House— Bieshenkovichy— The J Grand Army— Ostrovno— A Centenarian— The Coming of Napoleon— A Russian Estate— The River Dvina— A Drive to the Forest— A Forest Hut— Hunt for Bears— Freedom in Russia— The Jews in Russia— Return to Moscow— The Russian Language— Russian Fictional Literature— Pessi mism in Literature— The Press Censor — Characteristics of Russian Fiction — Translations — Dostoevski — Tolstoi — Poushkin the Poet— Lermontoflf, his Life and Tragic Death — Turgenev — Gogol — His Description of the Dnieper — Korolenko— The Censorship of the Press — Suppression of Newspapers — Persecution of Turgenev — Effects of the Censorship 145 CHAPTER X NIJNI-NOVGOROD AND THE VOLGA Travelling in Russia — Strategical Railways — Hotels — Journey to Nijni-Novgorod — Description of the Market — Tartars — Caucasian Wares — Russian Methods of Dealing — The Town of Nijni-Novgorod — Voyage on a River Steamer — Burning of a Steamer — Sad Death of a Russian General — Tragedy and Comedy — Navigation on tho Volga — Scenery — The Djiguli Hills — Moonlight on the Volga — A Solitary Waste — Kazan — Characteristics of the Russian People — Tartars of the Golden Horde — Rafts — Samara — Bandits on the Volga — The Alexandrovski Bridge — Steamer on the Shoals — Saratoff — A Gloomy Hotel — Mviseum — Tzaritzin — Steppes — A Howling Wilderness — Astrakhan — Fisheries — Fruit — Locusts — Armenians and Persians — Breaking up of the Ice on the Volga 165 CHAPTER XI SUPERSTITION AND CIVILISATION IN RUSSIA Superstition ainong the Peasants — Bacon on Superstition — The Iberian Madonna — The Russian Clergy — Popular Rumours —Strange Stories— A Wicked Witch— Story of the Three Chanticleers — The Russian Peasant — Drunkenness — Strange Marriage Custom — Want of Energy among the Russians — Siberia — Sakhalin — Horrors of the Penal Settle ment — Barbarous Act of Superstitious Peasantry — Cholera Riots at Saratoff — Corrupt Administration — Stoppage of the Tzar's Train — Fear of Officials 181 CONTENTS xiii CHAPTER XII THE COSSACKS IN WAR PAGE Origin of the Cossacks — 1812 — Degeneration and Dragooning — Characteristics of the Cossacks — Inspection by Tzar Nicholas — Russian Press on the Cossacks — Method of rais ing a Regiment — The Hetman Denisoff — Organisation, Equipment, and Training — Cossack Boyhood — The Cossack Lava — The J^'iiter — Action at Corelichy — The Golden Epoch of Cossack History — Frays and Forays — Cossacks in Fiction — Action with the Tartars in 1774 — Crossing Rivers — Attack on a Polish Position — The Lava in action against the Turks — Operations against the French . . . .196 CHAPTER XIII HINGOLI AND PANTHER-SHOOTING Hingoli — The Road to Cantonment — The Hot Weather at Hin- goli — A Shady Garden — The Khair Eiver — Small Game — Wild-fowl Shooting — Green Pigeons — Panthers — Singhi Ghaut — Dacoits — Panther shot by Night — Bear killed — Ahnd Trackers— Panther killed at Oundha— Two Panthers shot at Gadalla — Panther on the Puma River — Put to flight by Wild Bees — Unwillingness of Natives to give In formation — A Stern Chase — Panther killed — To the Purna River again — Panther killed with Buckshot — Poona — March to Beder — Beder City and Fort — Fish swallowing Snake and Snipe 212 CHAPTER XIV BISON-SHOOTING The Melghat revisited — Drive of One hundred and twenty Miles — Narnala Fort — Camp at Pirkhera— Jungle Sounds — Fine Prospect — A Bull Bison — Wild Dogs— A Herd of Bison— Death of the Bull— A Tigress— A Midnight Vigil The Construction of a Machan — Animal Life at Sunset — Night in the Jungle— Reflections— A Bison by Night— Dawn— Leopard and Hyena— Hyena killed— On the Track of the Bull — Wounded and Lost — A Jet-black Bull— Another Bison— Wounded— On the Blood-trail— Sambhur — A Family of Bears 228 CHAPTER XV TIGER-SHOOTING Expedition after Tigers — Decrease of Game— Habitat of Animals —Nature of the Tiger— The Dangers of Tiger-shooting— xiv CONTENTS PAGE Wounded Tigers — The Mahore Jungles — Virgin Ground — Camp at Kupti— My Shikaris— Bhima the Bhil — Work of Shikaris— Nuttoo Shikari— Chunder — The Pein Gunga— Haunts of Tigers— Sheik Farid's Ziarat—A necessary Ceremony — A Midnight Tragedy — Death of a Tigress — Tiger killed in Chichkora — Tigers and Porcupines — A Hindu Shrine — Denizens of the Jungle — Sacrifices to the Jungle Gods — Blue Bull shot — Tiger killed in the Dili Nullah — Spotted Deer — The Charm of the Jungle — The Voices of the Forest — Cunning Tigers — Ganeshpur — An Empty Beat — Escape ot a Tiger near Lhona — Sunstroke — Tigress in the Beat — The Tiger again — Marked down — Death of the Lhona Tiger — March to Dhygaon — Tiger shot at C ¦ — Tiger wounded at Pipri — Panther killed — Following a wounded Tiger — Move to Burgaon — A Canni bal Tiger — Recalled to Hingoli 245 CHAPTEE XVI TIGER-SHOOTING — (continued) March to Jalna — Wild Cat and Pea-fowl — Blue Bull killed — The Lake of Lonar — Jalna — Aurungabad — Dowlatabad — Rosa — Ellora — Spearing a Panther — Return to Hingoli — Expedition after Tigers in 1896 — Old Haunts — Ceremony at the Ziarat — Tigress shot, and Panther missed — Lhona — Examining Kills — Fine Tiger killed at Lhona — Heathen Rites — March to Dhygaon — Wild Dog shot — Cholera — Run after a Tigress — Bear killed — Tigress and Cubs — Spearing a Cobra — At Burgaon again — Telingi Beaters — Tigress escapes — Beat for the Tigress — Flight of the Burghers of Burgaon — Tigress killed by Sepoys — Behaviour of Beaters — Return to Dhygaon — Hunt for the Patoda Tiger — The K River — Death of a Tiger and Tigress — The Patoda Tiger killed — His Stronghold — Tigress stalked and shot at Lhona — Buffalo mauled by Tigress — Tigers killing Bears . 274 CHAPTER XVII WILD ANIMALS — THE LAND OP THE GONDS Bolarum — Shamiapett — Sunset on the Lake — Panthers near Bolarum — Magistrate's Work — Oriental Veracity — Crime at Hingoli — Panthers and Small Game — Four Days' Shoot ing — Run after a Bear — Bear missed — Bear killed, and Cubs caught — Death of Man-eating Tiger — Bear shot — She- Bear killed — Tiger and Tigress — Escape of a Tigress — Bear wounded — Fierce Animals — Panther attacks a Man Officers killed by Wild Beasts— The Land of the Gonds— CONTENTS XV PAGE Habits of the Gonds — Description of their Country — Timidity of Aborigines — Indru the Gond — A Terra Incog nita — Bad Water — Untruthfulness of the Gonds — Super stitions — The Gond Rajah — Reputed Man-eater — Abori ginal Hunters — The Rajah's Domain — A Jungle Elysium — Native Officials — Narrow Escape of the Rajah — Gond Customs and Superstitions — The Tiger God — Famine and Drought — Jubilee Rejoicings 292 CHAPTER XVIII TIGER-SHOOTING Expedition after Tigers in 1897^Camp at Kupti again — Effect of Drought — A Useless Beat — Tigress in Chichkora — Nar row Escape of Nuttoo — Spotted Deer-shooting — Tigress shot above Lhona — Empty Beat — Eluding the Forest Guards — A Tiger killed — Young Panther shot — Death of a Tigress — Horse attacked by Colic — Tiger killed above C Tigers in the K River — Camp at S^ Ten Blank Days — Lakes, Game, and Wild-fowl — Tigress shot — I miss a Tigress — A Fruitless Night Watch — Death of a Tiger — Tiger shot at K Gond Women and Tiger — A Cunning Tigress — March across the Mountains — Old Tiger and Tigress killed — Another Tigress shot — Tiger killed at S • — Our Last Tiger — Game Preservation — The killing of Tiger Cubs— The Length of Tigers . . 313 CHAPTER XIX A MONTH IN NORWAY Voyage to Europe — Brindisi — Naples — Pompeii — Rome — Voyage to Norway — Travelling in Norway — Bergen — The Sogn Fjord — Vadheini — Sande — The Viks Lake — Trout in Norway — A Fisherman's Cottage — Norwegian Hotels — Langeland — ^Ferde Hafstadt — Timber in Norway — Nedre Vasenden — ^A Land of no Night — The Jolster Lake and River — Voyage to Skei — The Great Jolster Glacier — Fishing at Skei — The Bredheim Lake — Sombre Scenery — Absence of Fauna — Great Lake Trout — "Otters" — The Sandals Lake — The Red River — A Wonderful Valley — Remnants of the Glacial Epoch — Moraines — Red — Return Journey — Character of the Norwegians .... 335 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIOKS A Teophy of the Chase On the Coast op Barbados A Herd of Ibex Himalayan Bear and Cubs Panther ani) Kill . A Russian Troika Cossacks . Chunder and Nuttoo, Shikaris . A Tiger in the Beat Black Bear and Cubs The Rajah's Domain One op our Buffaloes was killed Frontispiece 20 TROPICS AND SNOWS CHAPTER I JAMAICA Voyage of the Moselle — The Azores — Rough Weather — Fatal Accident — A Derelict — Fellow-Passengers — Sombrero — The Cradle of our Sea-power — A Procession of Heroes — Rodney's Victory — Nelson — The Spaniards — Buccaneers and Pirates — Henry Morgan — Jamaica Riots — St. Thomas — A Waterspout — Puerto Rico — Haiti and San Domingo — Fires on the Island — Tortuga — Port-au- Prince — A bloodstained History — Cannibalism — Unfitness of Blacks for Self-government — Jamaica — Fort Augusta — Port Royal — The Panama Canal — Kingston — Up Park Camp — The West India Regiments — Newcastle — The Blue Mountains — Fauna of Jamaica — Game Birds — Spanishtown — Johnny Crow — Other Birds — Rock Fort — Oysters growing on Trees — Sharks — Vendor of Curiosities. On the 2nd April 1885 I left England for the first time, having embarked on board the Moselle at Southampton, bound for Jamaica, where the corps to which I had been posted, the 1st West India Regiment, was stationed. Our ship was perhaps the finest of a fine line of steamers, the Royal Mail Steam Navigation Company, and was as comfortable and luxurious as the most fastidious traveller could desire. This vessel was some years afterwards totally 2 TROPICS AND SNOWS wrecked off the coast of South America — I believe near Colon. There had been heavy storms for some time previous to our departure, and we came in for the edge of a hurricane; but after a few days of very rough weather we fortunately passed beyond the Azores into calm and unruffled seas. The storm had, however, claimed a victim ; for one of the stewards lost his footing during its progress, and, falling down a hatchway, fractured his skull, and was killed on the spot. During the early part of our voyage we saw many evidences of the late storm, in the shape of broken spars and other wreckage, among which the dis masted hull of a small derelict schooner especially attracted our attention. Our steamer slackened speed on nearing the wreck, but it was evidently deserted, and there was no sign of life on board; the boats were gone, so it was hoped that the crew might have escaped in them. My fellow -passengers were not altogether in teresting. They comprised a Jamaica planter, who was rather too fond of cocktails ; a dockyard official, who also required an "eye-opener" every morning before breakfast ; a mining engineer, bound for Peru ; a youth just escaped from school, who was going to the United States of Colombia with the hope of making a fortune in the silver mines ; and four yellow Mexican boys returning to Vera Cruz from school in England. There was also a German doctor engaged on a scientific mission to Cuba, who was much struck with the beauty of the ebony belles of St. Thomas. After passing the Azores no land was seen for JAMAICA 3 ten days, when the small island of Sombrero, so called from its shape, was sighted. It is but a barren rock, sometimes temporarily inhabited by fishermen from the neighbouring islands ; but the sight of even such land was welcomed as a break in the monotony of an uneventful voyage, when the principal amusement consisted in watching the flying-fish, and catching with improvised grapnels the seaweed brought from the Sargasso Sea by the current of the Gulf Stream. We were now well within the historic waters of the Caribbean Sea, the cradle of the sea power of Great Britain. Looking back through the mist of time on the splendid and romantic history of the past, a ghostly procession of mighty men passes before the mind's eye — an array of heroes who contributed so much to the building up of that great empire on which the sun never sets. There were Frobisher and Raleigh and Drake, and crowds of buccaneers — pirates and patriots — the men who humbled the power of Spain on these seas, who took her galleons and ravaged her colonies, thus establishing in the fair islands of the Caribbean Sea the basis of the British Empire. Following these great men, other giants appear in the kaleidoscope of history, and many shadow- shapes, pale phantoms of the past, come and go — Rodney, who, by the utter destruction of the French fleet on 12th April 1782, ensured the ascendency of Great Britain in these islands, once the brightest jewels in the British crown, but now, alas ! from various causes, fallen from their high estate. Then Nelson and CoUingwood passed across 4 TROPICS AND SNOWS these seas again and again, and finally sailed hence to gain the culminating victory of Trafalgar, which, although resulting in the death of the greatest of England's sons, contributed so much towards the downfall of Napoleon, and the successful issue of the struggle of Europe against his domination. But there is another side to the picture. First came the Spaniards, with their iniquitous inquisition and other methods of conversion, by means of which they converted the harmless Caribs off the face of the earth. They brought fire and sword in their train. I know not if they also brought rum, or its equivalent in those days, as do our modern mission aries in other parts of the world, where they appear to be thc forerunners of a similar conversion or extinction. After the Spaniards followed the bucca neers and pirates, Spanish, French, and English, who held high revel at Port Royal, where also the gallows- trees bore a heavy crop of human fruit. Nor must we forget Henry Morgan, buccaneer and patriot, who captured Panama and governed Jamaica. And to finish the dark page of history, in modern times happened the unfortunate Jamaica riots— a sad story, more of mistake than crime, ending in the shameful death of the insurgent Gordon, and the consequent disgrace of the hapless Eyre. But enough of history. On the morning of 15th April we entered the beautiful little harbour of St. Thomas, our first anchorage, and lay-to about a quarter of a mile from the shore. The harbbur is almost landlocked, and consequently provides a safe refuge from the storms that sometimes rage in this part of the Atlantic ; for the wind may blow ever so JAMAICA 5 fiercely without, but the waves beat in vain against the lofty rocks, standing like sentinels over the harbour, within which reims eternal calm. The town of St. Thomas is picturesquely built on the slope of a mountain, stretching down to the low, sandy shore ; the white houses, nestling among feathery palm-trees and deep green bananas, look very pretty with their red roofs and green jalousies. The ship was no sooner at anchor than it was surrounded by a yelling crowd of negroes, some plying their boats for hire to take the passengers ashore ; others offering fruit, vegetables, curiosities, and various other articles for sale ; whilst diving- boys, in defiance of sharks, performed feats rival ling even those of the Somalis at Aden. After being fought for by a struggling mass of boatmen, some of us succeeded in getting into a dinghy, and were pulled to the shore by the lusty blacks. Having a few hours to spare, we proceeded to the market-place, where sugar-cane, mangoes, plantains, cocoanuts, and other tropical fruits were exposed for sale. Then we went to the ice-house, where sherry-cobblers and other American drinks were dispensed ; but on the whole there was little of interest to be seen. St. Thomas was at this time a port of call for the steamers of the Royal Mail Company, where mails and passengers were tran shipped for some of the other islands, and for Demerara ; but this route has since been abandoned, and Barbados is now the port of call. It was noticeable that the greater part of the trade of St. Thomas appeared to be in English hands, although the island is a Danish possession. 6 TROPICS AND SNOWS Shortly after leaving the harbour we observed a great waterspout in the distance, but it was visible only for a few seconds. Rising from the sea like a pillar of dark cloud, the tall column of water joined the ocean to the vault of heaven, stood wavering for some seconds, and then, suddenly collapsing, melted away in the waste of waters. At nio-ht some mild excitement was obtained in watching the revolving light of Puerto Rico, for even such an insignificant incident is of sufficient interest to break the monotony of life on board ship. On the 16th April, soon after sunrise, we sighted the shores of Hispaniola, the island containing the black republics of Haiti and San Domingo. At first the sierras appeared dimly blue in the morning mist, but as we approached the mountains became clearer, the mist disappeared, and the tall rocks, although some miles distant, seemed to stand close ahead in the deep blue waters of the Caribbean Sea. The hills, rising from fertile plains, green sa,vannahs, and miasmatic swamps, were clothed with mahogany, ebony, and other trees. Down the valleys rushed foaming torrents, now lost to view in dark gorges and thick brushwood, anon reappearing, and leaping from height to height, until they sped away to water the stretching plains below, where they disappeared in the luxuriance of the tropical vegetation. The rocky cliffs stood up on a stretch of golden sand, fringed with lines of palm-trees. At night the vessel steamed along close inshore, and a scorching wind, hot as a blast from Hades, was borne towards us across the phosphorescent waves. The mountains loomed black against the starlit sky, ajid innumer- JAMAICA 7 able fires burned amid their rocky fastnesses. In all directions there blazed the mysterious flames ; perhaps they were kindled in honour of Mumbo Jumbo and Obi, the gods of the heathen, for the people are given to idolatry, and are fast relapsing into barbarism. Perchance the natives were cooking some of their own kind, for they are said to be, in some parts, addicted to cannibalism. We were, however, too far off to distinguish any odour of burnt flesli. No scent, save that of the tropic woods with their fragrant spices, was wafted towards us from the rocky shore of Hispaniola ; no sound was heard, save the ceaseless breaking of the surf on the adjacent shore. Morning broke, and found us still steaming along the coast. We passed through a narrow channel, between Haiti and the small island of Tortuga. The latter was in former times a great stronghold of the buccaneers, who used to collect their ill-gotten spoil for concealment on this island, where, tradition says, some treasure still lies hidden. During the whole day we passed along this coast, with its strips of sand fringed with palm-trees and cactus. A varied landscape presented itself to our view. Wild forest-clad mountains rose tier upon tier in theatral majesty ; green savannahs, covered with long prairie grass, stretched like an undulating sea of emerald, in the midst of which appeared here and there a village, or a small patch of cultivation. In the early morning of the third day from St. Thomas we entered a long, narrow bay, the Bight of Leogane, an arm of the sea, whose unruffled 8 TROPICS AND SNOWS waters were crimsoned by the rays of the rising sun. On either side were the usual sandy shores and cocoanut palms, whilst above rose bush-covered mountains, sloping gently to the sand. Passing some small mangrove-covered islands, on one of which stood an insignificant stone fort, we anchored at the head of the bay, not far from the Haitian navy, which consisted of one small man-of-war. In a hollow in front of us, between two hills, lay the town of Port-au-Prince, a long, crowded city, formed of ruined huts and squalid habitations, relieved here and there by some tall church spire or public building, appearing curiously incongruous amid the surroundings. I was unable to land here, and, after staying about an hour, we left the bay, and coasted along that seemingly peaceful shore — so peaceful, so still, that the silent woods seemed to be wrapped in everlasting slumber. Yet these woods often resound with the clash of arms, for an interne cine struggle frequently rages, and those deep forests and green savannahs have often been incarnadined with blood. It is a sad contrast — the beauty of the land, and its unfortunate and bloodstained history — a history that proves how unfitted the negro is for self-government. These two black republics of Haiti and San Domingo formerly belonged to France and Spain respectively. Many years ago the blacks rose and massacred the whites. Now the negroes govern the country after their own fashion, and the whites are the down-trodden race — a curious reversal of the usual order of things. But the republics, begun with savage bloodshed, have not prospered, and JAMAICA 9 the government of this island is a blot on the face of creation. The inhabitants are barbarians and idolaters, with a thin veneer of civilisation and Christianity. They have relapsed into the practice of African heathen rites, which include human sacrifices and cannibalism. Such crimes are perpe trated with impunity in Plaiti and San Domingo. Such is this fair land, one of the most beautiful islands of the earth, gifted by nature with all things, where the only wild beasts that haunt the forests are those iu human form. The negroes are not improved by freedom, but rather are liable to drift back into the black depths of barbarism, from which they have scarcely emerged. Those who would attempt to govern black people in the same manner as the white would do well to pause and study the bloodstained history of Hispaniola, and glance at that island as it now is. Government should be adapted to the characteristics of a race, and its methods should be varied accord ingly. It is no use attempting to apply a consti tution like that of England either to the East or the West Indies. History has proved that both the negroes and the natives of India are unfit to govern themselves. They must be ruled, and, when necessary, ruled with an iron hand. At daybreak on 19th April, seventeen days after leaving Southampton, we sighted Jamaica, and at eight o'clock in the morning the gun announced our arrival outside the wharf at Kingston. From a distance the first sight of Jamaica is pleasing. The Blue Mountains, veiled in a thin mist, rise to IO TROPICS AND SNOWS a great height, apparently out of the sea itself ; but nearer approach reveals a long, low-lying shore, with the usual fringe of palm-trees. Then come the palisades clothed with mangroves, and below them the rippling waves wash the sands below Rock Fort and Fort Augusta. The latter occupies an excellent tactical position, commanding, as it does, the entrance to the harbour ; but the mangrove swamps in the vicinity render it too unhealthy for effective occupation, and it is now used as a maga zine, and manned only by a few men of the West India Regiment. Formerly considerable bodies of troops were stationed there, and many valuable lives were lost owing to the deadly surroundings of the place. In entering Kingston harbour the vessel passes Port Royal, situated on the end of the strip of land called the Palisades, famous in the liistory of the Spanish Main in the good old fighting days of Drake and his contemporaries. Once the most important place in the West Indies, Port Royal is now comparatively insignificant, its glories having departed since its destruction by the great earth quake in 1692. When I was in Jamaica consideraljle works were in progress at Port Royal, which was being strengthened with fortifications, and armed with guns of modern type. Perhaps this activity was due to the progress of the Panama Canal, which was then in course of construction, and appeared to have some chance of being completed. Thousands were flocking to the fatal isthmus from all ports of the Caribbean Sea, lured to that JAMAICA II deadly holocaust by the high pay offered for their labour. But in that sink of fever and iniquity most of them would meet their doom, for, where thou sands went, only hundreds returned. Had the construction of the canal been com pleted, Jamaica woukl undoubtedly have become a most important place ; and Port Royal, whose glory had departed with the buccaneers, might have recovered some of its pristine prosperity. But the canal was a gigantic failure, and its remains are now but the monument over the grave of many men's honour, and the memorial of more men's deaths. From the steamer I drove to Up Park Camp, where my corps, the 1st West India Regiment, was stationed. On the way I passed through Kingston, about a mile and a half from the barracks. King ston is a well laid-out town. All the principal streets lead down to the sea, so that the breeze blows clear along them, but the system of drainage was at that time very defective. A large part of the town was burnt down by a great fire in 1882, and much of it was still uninhabited, with only blackened ruins remaining where there had once been populous streets. Up Park Camp, where the West India Regiment is always quartered, is situated on a slight emi nence in the middle of a clear savannah, or open tract of ground. Its open situation does not render it immune from diseases such as yellow and typhoid fevers. The former scourge is in every way the most terrible, and is almost endemic in Port Royal. The barracks at Up Park Camp are well-built and airy, and afford excellent accommodation for 12 TROPICS AND SNOWS the men. There were in my time two West India regiments, each of which passed a tour of three years in the West Indies and on the West Coast of Africa alternately. The regiment on the coast also supplied a detachment of three companies to Barbados, whilst that in the West Indies garrisoned Honduras and the Bahamas as well as Jamaica. The negroes of these regiments present a fine appearance iu their picturesque Zouave uniform. They are sober and well-behaved, and are said to fight well ; but it was not my fortune to see any active service with them. On more than one occa sion they have fought excellently, both in Africa and in the West Indies. One famous fight — the repulse of an Indian attack on Orange Walk iu Honduras in 1872 by a detachment of the 1st West India Regiment under Lieutenant Graham Smith — is worthy of a foremost place in the history of gallant deeds of warfare, whilst individual negroes in West Africa have gained the Victoria Cross. My company was commanded by Major Ellis, a brave and able soldier, who attained to some dis tinction when commanding the regiment in West Africa a few years afterwards, and who would doubtless have become famous had he not unhappily perished, at a comparatively early age, from the effects of the deadly climate. The stations are generally unhealthy, and of other officers who were there with me few are now left. Death has claimed many on the deadly West African coast, and others have exchanged into British regiments ; for few care to serve all their lives in those undesirable parts of the globe, where JAMAICA 13 there has hitherto been so little chance of gaining distinction. The British troops in Jamaica then consisted of a detachment of the North Staffordshire Regiment, whose headquarters were at Barbados. They were quartered at Newcastle — those white huts seen from afar off high up on the slope of the Blue Mountains. There they enjoyed a comparatively salubrious climate, although I believe the station is not entirely exempt from occasional visitations of yellow fever ; whilst it is so lonely and its situation is such that the soldiers have absolutely no means of recreation, and live under conditions that cannot be otherwise than demoralising. One reaches Newcastle by a winding road up the mountains, through beautiful scenery above the valley of the Hope River. About half-way up the mountains is the somewhat squalid settlement of Gordon's Town. Looking l^ack now through the vista of many years, the Blue Mountains of Jamaica appear to me dimly outlined through the mist of time, but the recollection of happy days spent on the island still remains deeply impressed upon my memory. As the island lies so. near the Equator, the plains have a very torrid climate, but the surrounding waters of the Caribbean Sea tend in some degree to temper the heat. The higher up lands of the mountains, which culminate in Blue Mountain Peak and rise to a height of 14,000 feet above sea-level, possess a pleasant and salubrious climate, resembling in some respects that of the Himalayan slopes, without the rigours of a northern winter. In those days I used to find a delight in climb- 14 TROPICS AND SNOWS ing some high peak of the lofty range of hills, and looking down on the slopes covered with luxuriant vegetation, with giant cotton, ebony, and mahogany trees, with creepers and plants, and bright-hued flowers of a hundred kinds, and with beautiful ferns amidst which ever and anon might be caught the gleam of a rushing mountain torrent. And then lower down lay deep, cool valleys with precipitous sides. At times a fleecy cloud would sweep across and obscure the view, except where some loftier peak raised itself above the clouds, appearing like an island in mid-air, constantly changing its form as the mist swept round it in fantastic shapes. And farther yet, on a clear day could be seen the plains shimmering in a pall of heat, and stretching away to meet the sapphire sea beyond. On a rough day the sea could be distinguished breaking into foam where the waves beat in vain against the rocks of Fort Augusta and on the Palisades, where Port Royal lay on the extremity of the tongue of land that jutted out into the sea and formed Kingston harbour. The tangled bush and luxuriant under growth, so thick and entangled that at times one had to cut one's way through it with a machete, teemed with the exuberant bird and insect life of the tropics. Gorgeous butterflies flitted in the glades on purple and azure wings, floating from blossom to blossom scarcely less gorgeous than themselves. Humming-birds of many kinds and brightest hues fluttered incessantly their tiny wings as they hovered from flower to flower, changing their colour with every movement as the sunlight caught their metallic plumage. There were some little green ones with JAMAICA 15 white throats, scarcely larger than a bee, which swarmed in large numbers round the upper shoots of the bamboo clumps. Others of larger size had sapphire-coloured throats, and long curved beaks which they continually thrust into the flowers, and some appeared to be of a dull brown colour until the sunlight struck them, when they flashed with purple and green and gold. The little Jamaica robin, dressed in a garb of emerald green with a bright red breast, was also a common bird ; and there were many others — blue and green and yellow — too numerous to mention. Of game birds there were but few. Quail were at one time plentiful, but have nearly all been destroyed by the mongoose, which was introduced from India to kill the rats, but preferred game to vermin. Quail had become so scarce that I do not recollect having seen any during my residence of nearly a year on the island ; whilst the guinea-fowl, formerly so numerous as to afford good sport, had almost disappeared. There were also pigeons and doves of various kinds. The pigeons used to fly in towards evening from an outlying island, and sometimes a great many were slain in organised battues, the sportsmen waiting towards sunset for the arrival of the flight of birds. I must not omit to mention the duck and snipe, said to be fairly numerous in the Spanishtown marshes. These miasmatic swamps, formed by the River Cobre, are so deadly that the game is not worth the risk incurred in its pursuit. I recollect how a naval officer belonging to H.M.S. Urgent, the guardship at Port Royal, died of yellow fever within 1 6 TROPICS AND SNOWS twenty-four hours of his return from a day's shooting in these marshes. In addition to those already men tioned, some migratory birds, golden and grey plover, used to visit the island in the autumn, — and that makes up the list of the game birds of Jamaica. However, there were some other birds of interest. There was the ubiquitous turkey-buzzard, commonly called the Johnny CroM', which, hovering and wheel ing in circles overhead, is one of the first objects that attracts the attention of the observant traveller in Jamaica. His dark brown body and red vulture like head are seen everywhere. He alights on the tops of the masts in the harbour ; he is almost domesticated in the gardens, and he soars, a black speck in the azure sky, over the peaks of the Blue Mountain range. He is not ornamental, but is a very useful bird, for he is the best of scavengers, and therefore of great utility in a country where a fowl of his trade finds plenty of occupation. It was not a pleasant sight, but a very satisfactory one, to see a number of these creatures clearing away the offal with which the streets of Kingston abounded, and the noise they made when quarrelling over their unsavoury banquet was something to be remembered. The Johnny Crow has his faults. He has an objec tionable habit of sleeping on the roof of one's house, and half his night seems to be passed in tumbling down the tiles and clambering up again. Where the turkey-buzzard breeds was a mystery that had not then been elucidated ; but probably their nests are built in the rocky fastnesses of the mountains, or on the uninhabited islands of these seas. On one occasion I saw the corpse of one beside a dead JAMAICA 17 donkey, on which he had been regaling himself; perhaps the unwonted feast — for who has ever seen a dead donkey ? — was too much for him. His brethren did not take warning from his fate, nor did they respect their deceased companion, for they continued their feast on the donkey as if nothing had happened, and probably did not stick at cannibalism when they had finished that, but completed their festivities by demolishing the carcase of their un fortunate comrade. At any rate he was gone when next I passed the place, and nothing remained of the donkey except the white bones glistening in the sun. Besides these birds there were the mosquito- hawks, a kind of night-jar that twittered incessantly overhead when they emerged at sunset in search of their insect prey. And on the sea-shore might be seen great brown pelicans and pied kingfishers, and sometimes flights of sandpipers, or solitary terns ancl sea-gulls. There are very few mammals in the forests of Jamaica. In fact, besides wild pigs, which are somewhat scarce, I remember seeing only the mongoose and rats, and several species of bat. The rivers abound in a fish called the mountain mullet, which affords good sport, and is excellent for the table. The fishing takes one to the most beauti ful scenery among the mountains, where foaming torrents flow rapidly down the ravines, forming frequent cascades overhung with beautiful shrubs. There was one particularly fine waterfall in the Hope River where we used to bathe sometimes. The stream flows swiftly down a lovely glen overgrown with ferns and creepers of various kinds, until it 1 8 TROPICS AND SNOWS reaches a precipitous and rocky declivity whence it falls sheer into the valley below, forming a broad deep pool, shaded by giant trees and thick bushes from the rays of the tropic sun. Nor were the hills alone worth a visit. Towards Rock Fort, an ancient edifice fast crumbling to dust, a pleasant ride may be taken along the sea-shore, where the waves break with ceaseless murmur on a stretch of white sand. Here were clumps of mangroves, to which small oysters clung when the tide receded ; hence the traveller's tale about the oysters that grow on trees. On the moss-grown banks above the sand, green lizards with ruby eyes darted about in the sunshine, and the landrcrabs scuttled away to their holes on the approach of the intruder. And in the bay one might frequently see sharks and porpoises and bonitos, whilst sometimes a silver shower of flying- fish rose from the rippled surface and dropped into the sea again after accomplishing a short flight. I often saw the dorsal fin of a shark quite close to the shore near Rock Fort, and this deterred me from bathing, although the pellucid depths looked most inviting. But sharks around the Jamaica coast are rapacious and bloodthirsty. On one occasion three sailors went ashore in a boat from a man-of- war lying in Port Royal harbour. They started back for their ship after sunset, but never reached it. Next morning the boat was discovered floating in the harbour, containing the dreadfully-mangled corpse of one of the sailors. His comrades had disappeared, and it was supposed that the boat had capsized and that two of the sailors had been devoured by the sharks, whilst the third managed to JAMAICA 19 right the boat and scramble back into it, only to die there of the wounds received in his encounter with the monsters of the deep. A great character in Jamaica was the vendor of curiosities called "tick-tief," a corruption of the words stick-thief — a name our friend had earned because he was said to be in the habit of going round the officers' quarters and stealing the sticks he had himself sold to them. It was his trade to provide the collector with ebony and other sticks, and with various curious articles. Objects wonderful, beauti ful, and rare, delightful alike to the eye of the naturalist and of the collector of curios, had a place among his wares. He had cocoanuts and gourds carved in grotesque and curious forms ; necklaces ancl bracelets made of crabs' eyes and sapodilla seeds ; artificial flowers constructed of fishes' scales ; stuffed humming-birds of gorgeous hues — emerald-coloured, ruby-throated, and sapphire-crested ; porcupine fish ; huge bull-frogs covered with thick coats of varnish ; flying-fish stuffed with sawdust ; primitive shell- chisels used by the aboriginal Caribs, long since exterminated ; — such were a few of the most notable of " tick-tief s " treasures. The experienced collector of curios may buy all these for very little, and can start a small museum at the cost of a few dollars. But he must know the ways of the wily dealer, who always demands at least four times their value for his goods ; so that it requires some bargaining to come to terms. He used to board every steamer that came into the harbour, bearing his bundle of sticks and his basket of treasures ; and then, woe betide the passenger who 20 TROPICS AND SNOWS was visiting the island for the first time and was eager to obtain some of its curious productions. Imagine his disgust when he subsequently discovered that he had purchased for dollars what he might have obtained for cents. This merchant had his counterpart in Barbados, and doubtless in most of the other islands also. He was a jolly fellow. He used to sit in the verandah outside my room and spread out all his wares on the floor, laughing and joking the while, and when he went away he would say dolefully, "Massa make very hard bargain." Nevertheless, he would go with a merry twinkle in his eye, and with his huge mouth stretched from ear to ear, so that it seemed on the whole as if the bargain had not been very hard on him. He evidently thought me a good customer, and bore me no ill-will, for on my departure from the island he presented me with two carved calabashes, and I really thought a tear glistened in the corner of his dark eye as we made our last bargain on board the ship that was to take me to Barbados. ON THE COAST OF BARBADOS. CHAPTER II BARBADOS Voyage of the Don — Jacmel — St. Lucia and St. Vincent — Barbados — Physical Features of the Island — Climate — Denizens of the Deep — An Alligator — Bridgetown — The Ice-House — St. Anns Barracks — Behaviour of the Troops — Sir Charles Pearson — Hastings Rocks — The Negroes — Mulattoes — The Sugar Trade — Abolition of Slavery — Hurricanes — Earthquakes — The Winds of God — Sport on the Island — Indigenous Birds — Migratory Birds — Fishing — Voyage to England. My regiment had in the meantime been ordered to the West Coast of Africa, and the headquarters had left for Sierra Leone in November, but I was fortu nate enough to escape the pestilent climate of the White Man's Grave, being sent to join a detachment of two companies of the regiment at Barbados. It was not entirely without regret that I em barked on board the Don on 6th January 1886, bound for Barbados. The voyage of four days on a calm sea was an uneventful one. We coasted along the northern shore of Haiti, and touched only at the port of Jacmel on the way. Jacmel is a somewhat insignificant town, picturesquely situated on a small hill sloping down to the sea. On either side of the town are low hills, and beyond it rises a lofty range of wooded moun tains. The place appeared to contain some fine buildings, notably a large church with a tall spire. 22 TROPICS AND SNOWS We passed within sight of St. Lucia and St. Vincent, but the land could only be dimly dis cerned. I had, unfortunately, no opportunity of visiting these places, St. Vincent is a well-wooded island, very similar in its characteristics to others of the Antilles. It is notable in that it was the last stronghold of the Caribs until civilisation brought about their extinction. St. Lucia is a very beautiful island, inhabited principally by negroes, yellow fever germs, and the deadly serpent called the fer-de-lance. It was not then a military station, but I was told that there still remained traces of our former occupation of it in the shape of extensive but dila pidated barracks and an old fort. These have doubtless been rebuilt, for the island is now garrisoned by our troops. On the fourth day we reached Barbados, and anchored in Carlisle Bay. Here we were boarded by a big negress named Jane Ann, who was quite a celebrity in the West Indies. She was laundress to the crews of nearly all the ships that came into the harbour, and had, in addition, a great reputa tion for skill in making guava jelly and other condiments. Barbados is sometimes termed the little England of the West Indies, from the somewhat English appearance of its landscapes. Certainly, were it not for the black inhabitants, the plumed cocoa- nut palms that fringe the tropic shore, the bearded trees from which the island is said to take -its name, and the sun that beats so fiercely overhead, the aspect of the place would not on the whole BARBADOS 23 be far different from that of a strip of the southern coast of Britain. This is due in some measure to the fact that the greater portion of it is under cultivation, leaving but little of that luxuriant tropical vegetation, those wondrous and fantastic - shaped plants and bright-hued flowers, that form the principal features of most of the islands of the Caribbean Sea. Of all the West India islands Barbados is perhaps the most advanced, and its civilised blacks regard the rustic inhabitants of Jamaica with undeserved contempt. Generally speaking, the Jamaicans are, in point of industry, as well as in most other respects, a race far preferable to their Barbadian brethren. The climate of Barbados is not as trying as that of the other islands, although it is situated so near the Equator. Probably its small extent, surrounded by sea, tends to the prevalence of a more equable temperature than that of the Jamaica lowlands. Nevertheless, the place is not altogether healthy, and it has sometimes suffered severely from epidemics of yellow fever. Soon after my arrival on the island, when I had just recovered from a three months' illness from typhoid fever in Jamaica, I experienced a sharp attack of malarial fever, which almost put an end to my further peregrinations. In addition to the palms, the bearded trees, and the negroes, we find here other denizens of the tropical world. Bright humming-birds of different species to those found in Jamaica are common. In the sea, whose deep green and sapphire blue are wonderful to behold, deep down in the emerald 24 TROPICS AND SNOWS depths where the branching coral grows, may be seen strange-shaped fish, some — the sea porcupines — of globular form, covered with short, sharp spikes, like the bristles of a hedgehog ; some with great un wieldy heads attached to diminutive bodies. Shoals of flying-fish pursued by bonitos skim the surface, flash in the sunlight, and drop back into the water like a falling shower of silver. Occasionally a whale may be seen to spout in the offing ; and I recollect how an alligator was shot on the shore near St. Anns, and afterwards exhibited in Bridgetown at twelve cents a head for admission. The ill-fated saurian had probably been driven by stormy weather from Trinidad or the Guiana coast, and so wave-washed to the inhospitable shore of Barbados. Bridgetown, the capital of Barbados, was in those days an unclean place, overcrowded and ill-built, with narrow streets and lanes. The public build ings were fine, but appeared out of place amid their squalid surroundings. Near the bridge across Indian River is Trafalgar Square, a fine open space where a statue of Nelson serves to remind one of the great past in the departed palmy days of the West Indies. In the streets one sees people of every shade of colour — ebony black, brown, yellow, and sometimes even piebald. A popular resort in Bridgetown was the ice house, a refreshment-room where cocktails, sanga- rees, and other American drinks of a seductive but deadly character, were dispensed. Occasionally an ice-ship used to come in from New York with oysters, lager beer, and other luxuries, and then BARBADOS 25 the white people flocked in large numbers to the ice-house. St. Anns barracks were built all round an open plain called the Savannah, which served as a parade- ground, a racecourse, and a polo-ground. My quarters looked out over the sea, ancl I could see from my window the signal-point, so soon learnt to distinguish the various flags which were run up to signal the approach of different ships. When I first arrived at the barracks the ceaseless chorus of song raised by the tree-frogs in the evening seemed deafening ; but one soon becomes used to these noises that disturb the silence of a tropic night, and after a few days the nocturnal orchestra is not even notice able. The negro soldiers of the West India regiments are generally well-behaved, ancl very little addicted to drink. At times, however, they break out. When I was in Jamaica a feud arose between the men of my regiment and the police, and reprisals were carried out on both sides. The negroes on such occasions are given to arming themselves with razors tied on sticks, and for this reason the soldiers are not allowed to shave. A propos of this regulation, I heard of an amusing incident that occurred at Belize, in Honduras. One of the men of the detachment stationed there was sus pected of having shaved, an offence involving severe punishment. The commanding officer sent the man to the medical officer with a request for his opinion on the subject. The indignant medico replied to the effect that it was not his business to report on such a matter, as the professions of 26 TROPICS AND SNOWS surgeon and barber were not combined nowadays as they were in the Middle Ages. When I was in Barbados the troops were com manded by Sir Charles Pearson, a distinguished general, who will be remembered as the gallant officer who commanded the force at Ekowe during the brave defence of that fort against the Zulus in 1879. Besides polo and lawn - tennis there was not much in the way of recreation in Barbados. The climate was too enervating to leave one much energy for walking ; but in the evening, especially on Sundays, we generally used to walk to Hastings Rocks, a pleasant resort by the sea, where there was a stretch of green turf, and beyond it an expanse of sand fringed with cocoanut palms. At Hastings a very large hotel had been built, but had never been opened, and there seemed little prospect of its being a success. The negroes, both of Jamaica and Barbados, deserve some notice in an account of these islands. The plantation negro of the present day is generally a quiet and sober fellow, doing only enough work to earn his living, and leading a lazy life, basking in the sun like a great lizard for the greater part of the day. Sometimes he breaks out, but only on such occasions as a wedding, a wake, or a dignity ball ; and then much rum, and not in frequently a little blood also, is spilt. These entertainments are kept up until sunrise, and towards morning Sambo and Quashie become so uproarious that the police have sometimes to be called in to disperse the wedding or funeral party as the case may be. BARBADOS 27 The negroes are mostly Christians, and are very religious after their own fashion. It is a common thing to see a labourer going along the road with a herd of cattle or a load of sugar-cane, bawling hymns at the top of his voice, and occasionally interrupting the sacred strain to curse his cattle or mules. These people have apparently attained to a con siderable degree of civilisation;, yet few of them trouble to go through the ceremony of matrimony, ancl I have heard it averred that seventy-five per cent, of the population is illegitimate. The negroes of Barbados all work on the sugar estates, and are dependent on them for their livelihood. They have no little holdings of their own, like the blacks on most of the other islands. Therefore the ruin of the sugar planters would involve the destitution of their employes also. The blacks are a vast majoiity in Barbados, as in all the other islands. To what might they not be driven by starvation ? The blacks of Haiti massacred the French and set up a government of their own. The old days of prosperity, when the Barbadian gentlemen could live in affiuence and luxury, waned with the abolition of slavery. And with the decline of the sugar trade came the almost complete ruin of the landowners. Whilst in Barbados I was con ducted all over one of the finest sugar estates on the island : new machinery had just been put up at great cost. Formerly the income from the estate had amounted to many thousands a year. Now it was worth scarcely as many hundreds. Barbados is perhaps worse ofi" than many of the other islands, for it is entirely dependent on sugar. But in 28 TROPICS AND SNOWS Jamaica, for instance, there are other industries such as fruit, tobacco, and pimento-growing. The negro women do as much work as the men. They are fine, strapping wenches, beautifully made, and walk very upright with a stately gait, due to their habit of carrying loads on their heads. In the West Indies the people of lighter colour — mulattoes, quadroons, octoroons — are looked up to, and take precedence according to the degree of fairness of their com plexions. This is different to the case in the East Ihdies, where the half-caste is more an object of con tempt among both natives and Europeans. The infusion of white blood does not appear to have a deteriorating effect on the negro as it has in the case of the Oriental. The Eurasian is generally a poor creature, both mentally and physically, combining the worst attributes of both races, but the mulatto of the West Indies has usually infinitely more intelligence than the negro, and is his equal in physique. This fact is noticeable in the case of the soldiers of the West India regiments, or was in my time, when pure negroes formed the minority of the non-commissioned officers. Barbados possesses, few natural features of marked beauty. The island is generally flat, and has no mountains, only a few insignificant hills. Some of the deep gullies or watercourses are pictur esque, but the country is nearly all under cultiva tion, and lacks that rugged grandeur which is char acteristic of San Domingo and Jamaica. The sugar trade forms the chief industry, and occupies the greater part of the inhabitants, but wealth and prosperity have gradually disappeared BARBADOS 29 since the abolition of slavery — a measure of doubtful benefit to the negroes themselves, and one of the causes of the ruin of the planters and of the West Indian trade. This island, in common with others, is sometimes devastated by tremendous hurricanes. The year of my sojourn there a very destructive storm swept riglit across the islands, but Barbados sustained little damage, only a few walls being blown down, and some of the crops injured. At Newcastle, in Jamaica, many of the soldiers' huts were destroyed by this hurricane, whilst St. Lucia and St. Vincent were completely devastated. Slight earthquakes were of common occurrence, and in Jamaica I experienced some severe shocks lasting several seconds. It is related that an earth quake once took place there when the congregation was assembled in one of the parish churches. The parson hoped to rise to the occasion and allay the fears of his flock. " Calm yourselves, dear brethren," he exclaimed, "there could be no better place in which to die than this holy edifice." At this moment a more severe shock was experienced ; the parson added, " But outside's good enough for me," and, gathering up his robes, fled to the door. The climate of'Barbados is not unpleasant, but it is very enervating, although during part of the year it is comparatively cool owing to the prevalence of the trades, those winds of God that bring relief from the heat, and formerly wafted our ships to victory. In the way of shooting, the island offers but a poor field to the sportsman. It is, in fact, destitute of anything that would be called game in other parts of the world more favoured with animal life. The 30 TROPICS AND SNOWS only permanent feathered inhabitants considered worth shooting are the little ground-doves, birds about the size of quail, which afford a certain amount of sport of a very mild type. They inhabit the open ground all over the island, and may be knocked over with case by a charge of No. 10 shot as they wing their short flight over the surface of the ground. These we used to shoot at times in con- siderable numbers ; whilst as for larger game, when a brown pelican or a sea-gull appeared on the coast there was great excitement, and the guns mustered in force to hunt the unfortunate intruder. For the rest, I believe the different species of birds indigenous to the island might be counted on the fingers of one hand. I can only recollect a blackbird, a common sparrow, two species of humming-birds, and a large kind of grey shrike with a red crest on his head, but seldom met with. But in the autumnal months from August to October there used to appear large flocks of migratory birds more worthy of our powder and shot. These were of various species. There were plovers, golden and black breasted ; curlews ; dotterel ; pikers, whose English name I forget ; like wise different kinds of sandpipers, very similar to the snipets met with in the marshes of India, and locally in Barbados termed long-legs, nits, chirps, and ring-necks, according to their kind. Once I shot a black web-footed bird called a noddy, and on another memorable occasion an egret fell to my gun ; but these were rare visitants to the island. The shore birds used to arrive in thousands from the Spanish Main, and were said to be bound for the North-American lakes, on their way to which they BARBADOS 31 alighted in large numbers on the islands of the West Indies, before proceeding on their journey to the north. I believe we at Barbados only came in for the outside edge of the flight of feathered myriads, as we were not in the direct track. Nevertheless, countless thousands invaded the island during the whole of August and September. A reference to my diary shows that the first shore birds were shot in 1886 on the l7th July, and the last on the 15th October. I used to pick up numbers of the various species on the savannah, in the marshes near the shore, and on the white sand itself Sometimes they afforded very pretty shooting, for a long-leg flying swiftly in a gale of wind does not offer an easy mark. On one occasion a flight of chirps swept by me, skimming over the placid surface of the sea, and two barrels into the middle of them brought down thirteen birds. The smaller sandpipers were easier to approach than the pikers, long-legs, and plovers, which were so wary that it required a care ful stalk to get within shot of them. Some of the planters who possessed extensive swamps on their estates used to erect wooden huts in likely places, where the sportsmen would take up their posi tion, accompanied by call-boys. These latter, with the aid of wooden whistles, would skilfully imitate the cries of various birds, and thus attract them within shot, and in this manner large numbers were slain. Personally, I preferred to wander alone with my gun on the solitary shore ; to listen to the ceaseless murmur of the waves lapping on the beach, and the rustling of the wind among the palms ; to look out 32 TROPICS AND SNOWS across the emerald sea, and watch for the coming flight ; or to shoot the birds as they rose from the sandy waste and circled in the air overhead. Although in this manner more than a dozen birds were seldom brought to bag in the course of a couple of hours' walk, it was a more pleasant method of shooting, and the sea-shore was more interesting than the dreary swamps of the interior ; but at best the sport was poor, and would not have been worth indulging in had the resources of the island afforded a more exciting occupation. Sometimes we went sea-fishing by night, but met with little success. We were more successful in shooting fish from the pier with a Martini-Henry rifle. I used to stand with a companion at the end of the pier in an al fresco costume of bathing drawers, and wait until a shoal of mullet passed near the surface. A bullet into the middle of the fish stunned a number, and we would then dive in and capture the killed and wounded. In April 1887 I received news of my transfer to the Indian Staff Corps, and on the 19th of that month embarked on board the Moselle, and, after touching at Cherbourg and Plymouth, arrived at Southampton on the 1st of May. Although I felt some regret at leaving my old regiment, a career in the East Indies appeared to offer more attraction, and I was glad of the opportunity of seeking adven tures in a new land. CHAPTER III THE PUNJAB Voyage of the Jio/uWci— Bangalore — Multan- Country and Climate — The City — Murder of two English Officers — Quail Shooting — Grey Cranes — The Chenab — On the March — Shershah — Crossing the River — Ships of the Desert — A Dreary Country — Dera din Pana — Leia — Suleiman Mountains — Duck-shooting — The Indus — Dera Ismail Khan — Sheik Budin — A Mirage — The Kurrum River — Wild -fowl at Narang Serai— Bunnoo — Frontier Robbers— Kohat — The Commander - in - Chief — The Kohat Pass — Peshawar — Climate — Fruit Gardens — The City — The Jhelum Salt Range — Spore on the Cabul River — Sport near Aimal Chabutra — Cham kanni — Extremes of Heat and Cold — Rawal Pindi — Murree — View from the Mountains — Fort Jamrud — A Dust Storm — The Khyber Pass — Colonel Warburton — Historic Ground — Aii Jlasjid — The Afridis — Landi Kotal — Frontier Warfare — Ferozepore — Native Method of shooting Antelope — Sport on the Sutlej River — Great Bag of Wild Geese — Crocodiles. After an interval of only one month at home, I embarked for Bombay on board the P. & 0. steamer Rohilla on 2nd June 1887. This was not a pleasant time of year for the voyage, the heat in the Red Sea being very great, whilst there were few passengers, as only those who are obliged to do so would travel at this season. The captain of the ship was a fine sailor of the old school. He had earned several medals for saving life, and also wore the Egyptian War Medal and Khedive's Star, awarded him for his services in patrolling Alexandria during the disturbances in 1882. On arrival at Bombay I was posted to a 3 34 TROPICS AND SNOWS Madras regiment at Bangalore, but after a fort night at that station was transferred to the Bengal Staff Corps, and sent to join a regiment at Multan. This station is not a particularly attractive one, famous as it is for dust, beggars, and graveyards ; and certainly all these made themselves most evident when I arrived there in the month of August. The heat was very oppressive, ancl I felt it all the more on coming from the cool, moist climate of Bangalore. In Multan it appeared as if rain had never fallen, and not a drop fell during the two and a half months of my existence there. The surrounding country was all white and glaring. During the daytime the ground and the sky emitted an almost intolerable heat, whilst the scorching night brought but little relief The whole country was a waste of dust, supporting a considerable number of date palm-trees, and in some places stretches of elephant grass. At that season of the year there was but little occupation, for it was too hot for lawn-tennis and other games. Those who played polo were enveloped in a cloud of dust which rendered the riders scarcely visible to the spectators. I visited the city, the walls of which still bore marks of bullets and cannon-balls. The fort was garrisoned by our troops, and another great fort was being built, and was almost completed, on the out skirts of the cantonment. The old fort contained a fine large mosque, the habitation of innumerable blue pigeons, here held sacred. The mosque is the scene of the slaughter of two English officers, who were treacherously slain after a desperate resistance, THE PUNJAB 3 5 iu the year 1848. The town is uninteresting, con sisting of the usual collection of dirty and squalid huts, and numerous mosques surrounded by a dilapidated wall ; but there were some pleasant gardens in the vicinity. At this time of the year there is not much sport to be obtained except with the quail, which appear in great numbers towards the end of August. Twice in the year great flights of these birds swarm in the fields, going southwards in August and September, and passing again in March ancl April on their return journey to the north. They come to the cotton-fields in vast numbers, and we had many a good morning's sport, frequently making a bag of thirty or forty brace in the course of a couple of hours' shooting. The native shikaris used to place call-birds in cages in the fields on the evening before we were going to shoot, and thus collect a large quantity of game in a small area. The sport, however, soon palls upon one, for the shooting is very easy, and we were glad to get a little variety when the teal began to arrive on the Chenab River, and to congregate in the marshes beyond it, which we visited several times. Once we put up seven bustard in a grain-field ; they did not fly, but ran at such a pace that all our efforts to come up with them were in vain. By the time we marched from Multan at the beginning of November there were very few large duck in, for these arrive later than the teal. Sometimes we shot a few sand-grouse and pigeons, but there was not much variety of game. Towards the end of October large numbers of grey crane used to fly over the station, generally at 36 TROPICS AND SNOWS night, when their cries could he heard afar ofi^, and sometimes they ahghted in great flocks, and lined the banks of the Chenab River. In the daytime these birds fly very high up, so that it takes some time to discover their whereabouts from the sound they make ; but at night they travel near the ground, and it is said that the natives then capture them by means of a stone tied to a piece of string, which they throw among the flocks to bring the birds down. These cranes are very wary and difficult to approach, and I frequently made unsuccessful stalks in attempting to bring them to bag. But they almost invariably rose just out of shot, as if they knew the range of a gun. I managed to shoot only one during my residence at Multan. He fell with a broken wing, and when I came up to him he turned fiercely to bay, and had to be knocked on the head with a stick. A few geese, both grey and barred-headed, were to be seen on the river late in October, but they did not begin to arrive in large numbers until much later, and few were seen before we reached the Indus in the middle of November. The Chenab has a swift and muddy current, in which we attempted fishing several times, but without much success. We caught a few fish of various species and curious and grotesque appear ance, but our basket generally contained only hawk- bill turtles. On the whole, Multan is quite the dreariest station I have been quartered at, and we were not sorry to receive the route to march to Peshawar by way of Dera Ismail Khan and the Kohat Pass. We THE PUNJAB 37 did not expect very much sport on the way, as I had been informed by one who knew the country that there was neither fur nor feather on the far side of the river Indus. However, it is an in teresting country, well worth seeing, although the stretches of stony desert and arid waste were by no means pleasing to the eye. Early in November we left Multan, and the first day marched some seven miles to the bank of the Chenab. Here I knew where to find game, having been several times after wild-fowl to the river at Shershah, and to a certain chain of small ponds or jheels on the farther bank of the stream. This was a sure find for teal ; so in the evening two of us crossed the river in a boat, visited the ponds and marshes, and shot four couple of teal and a big mallard. Next day we made the passage of the Chenab — an easy enough matter as far as our men and ourselves were concerned, but . a most difficult undertaking for the baggage aud transport animals. The Chenab is now spanned at Shershah by a fine bridge, but at the time of which I write the passage had to be made in boats. The baggage of the regiment was carried entirely on camels, — in all, I think, about two hundred, — and never shall I forget the trouble we had in getting these beasts into the boats. Although generally docile animals on land, the " ships of the desert" most decidedly objected to a voyage by water, and each camel had to be hauled and pushed into the boat. At length we all got across, and, having disembarked and reloaded our baggage, marched on to the next camping-ground, arriving 38 TROPICS AND SNOWS there late in the evening. The following three days we marched through a dreary country — an endless expanse of low sandhills, with scattered, stunted bushes. There seemed to be scarcely any game in these arid regions, but a few partridges were occasionally heard calling in the early morning, and at times a flight of sand-grouse would pass over head. At Dera Din Pana I halted for a day's shooting, whilst the regiment went on to Sultan- kot. It was but poor sport : very little game was about, only the francolin or black partridge and the grey partridges (more like the English bird), and we succeeded in bagging only a few brace of these. On the march we left our camping-ground daily long before daybreak, and arrived at our next halting-place in time for breakfast. One day we halted at Leia, a clean and well-kept city of con siderable size, with paved streets and a large gate way at each end of the main road. Near this place was a large lake, where we hoped to obtain some shooting, but not a bird was to be seen on it. From the people at Leia we heard that there was a good place for duck at the next stage ; so two of us went on, travelling by the slowest train I have ever been in. Its slow progression was doubtless due to the sand, which shifts with every wind, and at times entirely covers the line. Here we were in the vicinity of the Waziri country, and the dreary expanse was relieved by the lofty heights of the Suleiman Range, among which stood the great Takht-i-Suleiman. At daybreak we were up and went off on baggage camels to some jheels six THE PUNJAB 39 miles from Karur, the place where we were en camped. The camel-riding was the most uncom fortable and tedious mode of progression I have ever tried, for the camels were baggage animals untrained for riding ; but the sport obtained at the end of our journey made up for the discomfort of it. First we came to a small pond, thickly overgrown with rushes, from which a crowd of wild-fowl rose. Many fell to our guns ; but the birds came circling back again and again, and we soon made a fair bag here, although the shooting was not good, and many duck were lost in the reeds. AVe then moved on to a large lake, plentifully sprinkled with duck and teal. Hard by was another piece of water ; so, by judicious tactics, we were enabled to blaze at the ducks as they flew backwards and forwards from one lake to the other. I fear we did not shoot very well, for when we rejoined the regiment at the end of the day our bag consisted of only twenty-eight duck of various kinds. Next day we entered the valley of the Indus, where the green fields and more plentiful trees were very welcome to our sight. Here we were again in luck, for we bagged five duck and a couple of grey geese within a mile of camp. The following day found me twenty-five miles off" on the bank of the Indus at Maj oca, where I spent the best part of two days in trying to cir cumvent the cranes, geese, and duck, which were to be seen in vast quantities. But they were all very wild, and I obtained few shots, and bagged nothing. One should have a large gun for this kind of shooting, and my only weapon was a twelve-bore. 40 TROPICS AND SNOWS In the cold, grey dawn of the 14th November we issued from our camp, crossed the Indus and four of its branches by pontoon bridges, and, after a hot and dusty march, entered Dera Ismail Khan, preceded by the pipers of a regiment of the Punjab Frontier Force quartered at that station. This place, commonly called "Dismal Khan," is much abused, but to us it seemed a pleasant spot, like an oasis in the desert, for all beyond is a howl ing wilderness. Two desert marches brought us to Pezu, at the foot of the mountain of Sheik Budin, on whose summit is a sanatorium ; and a bleak and lonely health resort it must be. The markhor, a species of wild goat, inhabits this hill, but two of our party who went out in search of sport did not succeed in shooting any. After passing through a rocky defile we emerged next clay upon a broad and fertile plain. Large numbers of sand-grouse fiew over the column on the line of march, but we could never find any of these birds after our arrival in camp. Once we saw in the distance what appeared to be a great lake glittering in the rays of the morning sun, but our hopes of wild-fowl in prospect were dissipated by the discovery that it was merely a mirage that had deceived our eyes. After crossing the Kurrum River by a ford we encamped near the stream at Narang Serai, and in the afternoon went to look for game in a marsh where there were a few duck and teal. When the regiment marched next day, I and another officer remained behind to shoot on the Kurrum River. Starting at daybreak we shot all day, but with THE PUNJAB 41 poor success, for only one goose and about a dozen duck and teal fell to our guns. Never have I seen such countless millions of wild-fowl as there were on this river. They rose in myriads and darkened the air, whilst the whirr of their wings might have been heard at a great distance. They were very wild. . At the risk of our lives we crossed the treacherous quick sands of the river again and again in pursuit of the game. Many that were shot fell into the swift current, and were borne rapidly away, whilst others were car ried off by large hawks which attended us all clay. ' From Narang Serai a fourteen-mile ride brought us to Bunnoo, or Edwardesabad, whence the regiment marched to Bahadur Kliel. From this place we marched for several days through rocky defiles and barren mountains, one day traversing a long tunnel through a hill, until we arrived at Kohat, the last frontier station on our line of march. No more game was met with during this time, and the monotony of marching and camp-life was unrelieved. At night the regiment was surrounded .by a cordon of sentries, a precaution rendered necessary by the presence of bands of robbers who were said to be in the district. So cunning and skilful are these frontier robbers that they will steal rifles from tents full of sleeping soldiers. At Kohat, a pleasant little station, we halted three days to take part in some field manceuvres in the presence of the Commander-in-Chief My regi ment was one of those which had accompanied him on the celebrated march from Cabul to Kandahar, and the men especially looked forward to again 42 TROPICS AND SNOWS seeing their old chief. All the troops in garrison lined the roads to receive him, and an amusing incident occurred. When the chief was momentarily expected, a carriage, preceded and followed by a cavalry escort, drove rapidly down the road ; the first regiment, thinking that his Excellency had arrived, presented arms. The salute was carried on all down the line, but as the carriage passed us we saw that it was occupied by Lady Roberts. The Commander-in-Chief himself rode in soon afterwards. On leaving Kohat, we marched through the pass over the mountains by a zig-zag and rugged path. This valley was dotted with small strongholds. Every man's house was literally his castle, a neces sity among such a turbulent people. The inhabitants were even then indulging in their favourite pastime of fighting ; at least many shots resounded through the valley, and tribal warfare was said to be the cause of them. There were some chikor or hill-partridges here, but we were unable to leave the road to go after them. We were glad to reach Peshawar on the 3rd December, and to settle down again after the dis comforts of a thirty-two days' march. The canton ment had at this time a very bad reputation on account of its unhealthiness, but I believe this has passed away since the introduction of a new water supply, and the place is now as salubrious as most Punjab stations. It was bitterly cold, and there was frost on the ground when we marched into Peshawar at the beginning of December. Passing through miles of peach and other fruit gardens, we entered the can- THE PUNJAB 43 tonment at its southern extremity, and pleasant indeed it looked after our long desert march, for the trees at the sides of the roads were green, and the gardens were enclosed by hedges of roses in full bloom. The city of Peshawar is a place of great interest. Entering by the Edwardes gate, one passes through a street of shops of various kinds, where swords and shields and table-cloths in endless variety are sold. Farther on we come to a number of skin shops, where furs from all parts of Asia, from Kash mir and Thibet, from Bokhara and Siberia, are ex posed for sale. Here are rugs of silver-fox skins, there the beautiful pelts of the ounce or snow- leopard, lying side by side with sable and squirrel and cat skins from Bokhara. Poshteens, sheep-skin coats manufactured in Cabul, hang in front of the shops, ancl rugs of camel and sheep skin are piled in profusion. The men seen in the streets are generally of forbidding appearance, and do not appear to look with favour on the European. The women go about in long white garments, with eyeholes to look through, but otherwise veiled from head to foot. The year passed at Peshawar is, on the whole, a pleasant memory to me. I was fortunate enough to escape the two worst months of the hot weather by going to Murree, a lovely hill-station in the Hima layas. My stay there was also varied by a trip to the Jhelum Salt Range in search of oorial, the wild sheep of the Punjab, and by many a good day's shooting on the Cabul River. In the Jhelum Salt 44 TROPICS AND SNOWS Range, where I spent ten days with a brother officer, we did not obtain much sport. There are very few oorial remaining there, and not many of them bear good enough heads to be worth shooting. Our bag consisted of only a couple of these animals and a few head of small game. We used sometimes to go down the Cabul River in a boat during the cold weather, starting from a pontoon bridge, and making our way some ten miles down the stream to Nisatha. Frequently Ave had very good sport with the duck and teal, and sometimes added a goose or crane to the bag. I had only one good day after snipe, when two of us shot twenty-six couple of birds on Mathra Jheel, near the hills north of the Khyber. On another occasion we drove out to Matanni, near Aimal Chabutra, at the mouth of the Kohat Pass, and crossed the frontier in search of si-si partridges, but did not get many. We were accompanied by a horde of frontier rascals armed with jezails, who insisted on attaching themselves to us, saying they had come to protect us. The best shooting-ground near cantonments was a little-known place, Cham kanni, beyond the fort, to which I resorted several times, and bagged numbers of duck and sand-grouse. The hot weather at Peshawar was certainly terrible. All day one had to be shut up in the bungalow, emerging only at sunset, whilst at night the heat was so great as to render sleep almost im possible. This state of things, happily, lasts only about six months, and the cold weather, when the climate is perfect, makes up for it. It is sometimes so cold in THE PUNJAB 45 December and January as to render it necessary to keep fires burning all day. I passed August and September at Murree, forty miles from the large military station of Rawal Pindi. Here, 7000 feet above sea-level, the scorched-up tra veller from the plains finds rest, and is able to breathe the fresh air once more. It was indeed a pleasant change, and one that I could appreciate after having suff'ered much from fever during some months' resi dence in the burning plains below. There was no sport to be obtained at Murree during the rainy season, which lasts from June to September, although I heard there were some panthers and bears in the vicinity ; so I had little to do but idle away the time in pleasant rides ancl walks on the hill-sides. The view from the Murree hills was grand on clear days, and the scenery was sublime. There were deep valleys clothed with deodars, and beyond were hills, and mountains in the middle distance, and again mountains towards Kashmir as far as the eye could reach. There were grand, gloomy forests, the abode of awful solitudes, and deep, dark ravines where the sun never reached the abysmal depths ; and beyond all, glistening in the light of heaven, jutted great peaks, their bases veiled in the purple distance, their summits clad in eternal snow. And to the south, far far away, shimmering in a pall of heat, lay the arid plains of the Punjab. On returning to Peshawar I found myself de tailed to command Fort Jamrud during the month of October. From the outskirts of the cantonments two broad metalled roads, constructed to facilitate the movement of troops in time of war, run side by 46 TROPICS AND SNOWS side due west towards the Khyber Pass. Approach ing Fort Jamrud these two roads converge into one broad way, which becomes rugged and stony as it nears the celebrated pass. Farther on, the road enters the gloom of the mountains, and winds along their rugged sides. This is the high road to Cabul. On two days in the week a stream of traffic, of camels and two-wheeled carts, passes along this road to the caravanserai at Jamrud. On other than these caravan clays the country is almost deserted. Fort Jamrud was built by the Sikhs, but it has been partly reconstructed and improved upon since it came into our hands. Near here the Sikhs fought raany a battle with the fierce tribes, who came down from the hills above, and in the vicinity is the last resting-place of their great general, Hari Singh, who fell in battle. The fort is situated about ten miles from Pesha war, and a mile from the entrance to the Khyber Pass. At the time I write of, it was garrisoned by one hundred infantry and fifty native cavalry, under the command of a British officer. Whilst at Jamrud I made the acquaintance of Colonel Mahomed Aslam Khan, who commanded the Khyber Rifles, and also of Afridi Khan, the headman of one of the local tribes, who used to send me most welcome presents of ice. One day I rode to Aii Masjid with Colonel Warburton, the political officer of the Khyber, to whom is doubtless in great measure due the long period of peace that obtained in the Khyber country. Whilst I was returning from Peshawar to Jamrud one evening a great dust-storm arose, such as fre quently prevails in Northern India. These dust- THE PUNJAB 47 storms are welcome, as they clear the atmosphere, reducing the temperature ten or fifteen degrees in the course of a few minutes. They are, in other respects, rather a nuisance, as the dust gets into one's bungalow, and everything is soon covered with a thick layer. On this occasion I was galloping down the road towards Jamrud, when the sun, which had lately been shining brightly, retired behind the clouds, the sky assumed a leaden hue, and the atmosphere an oppressive closeness, such as generally precedes a thunderstorm or an earth quake. Soon the lightning flashed among the Khyber hills, and the thunder reverberated among their rocky caverns, awakening echoes that had a few years previously been roused by the roar of cannon and the rattle of musketry. A few drops of rain fell pattering on the parched surface of the earth ; the wind rose and blew in gusts, moaning among the scanty trees, and whistling round the grey walls of Hari Singh ka Burg. Then a dark cloud, borne on the wings of the wind, appeared in the far north. Rapidly it approached, and the voice of the storm came howling through the desert air. The cloud was of dust, and, like the blast of the simoom, seemed to overwhelm everything in its course. The air was darkened, and my horse galloped on with difficulty through the blinding storm. At length the dust-storm passed, and like a huge pillar of cloud rolled on to the south, whilst the red glare of the setting sun fired the particles of dust, transforming the cloud to a pillar of fire as it rolled onward across the desert. Where it had passed, all things were as before ; 48 TROPICS AND SNOWS the air was cleared by the passage of the storm, and a gentle breeze was wafted from the western hills. Soon I rode through the gateway of Fort Jamrud, a mass of buildings standing out on the stony waste. The following extract from an article of mine, published in Land and Water in May 1891, may be of interest in the light of subsequent events : — " I left the fort early one morning with a small escort of cavalry, and rode towards the famous pass. The vast importance and historical interest of this, one of the principal gates of India, render the first aspect of the Khyber Pass most interesting and impressive to the traveller. It is celebrated in both ancient and modern history. By this way Alexander of Macedon advanced to the conquest of Hindustan. From here issued the barbarian hordes of Timur the Tartar, when that conqueror overran India and established his Eastern empire. Every point of this mountain defile has been fought for ; every rock has borne the brunt of battle ; the tide of war has flowed through it from Afghanistan to India, and from India back to those bloodstained plains. Inhabited by wild and warlike tribes, the rocky sides of the Khyber Pass have ever afforded safe strongholds to their fierce warriors, and on more than one occasion they have been a serious obstacle to our advance into Afghanistan. Now, however, times are changed. Since the last Afghan war the work of pacification of the Khyber tribes has steadily progressed, until, at the present day, the road through these rugged hills is compara tively safe both for travellers and traffic. The THE PUNJAB 49 road is in excellent ordcr. At times it passes through rocky defiles, or is bridged over watercourses, and anon winds round some tall cliff, whose cloud- wrapt summit towers above the vale below. " The scenery is much the same all the way. Hill rises upon hill, and rock upon rock, and the majestic mountains trend away until they become purple in the far west. "Some ten miles up the pass we arrive at the fort of Aii Masjid, a high, almost inaccessible cliff, crowned by a grey grim fort. A silver brook runs over a stony bed at the base of the hills, a pure limpid stream, rippling in the sunlight, which but a few years since ran red with the blood of British soldiers. Here, in the last Afghan war, took place that stubborn fight, when, time after time, our troops were beaten back by the fierce mountaineers. Nor was it until their rear was threatened by one of our columns that the Afghans retired from their impreg nable position, and we took possession of our dearly- bought prize — the fort of Aii Masjid. " Stones mark the place where heroes fell, and the bones of enemies and friends alike lie moulder ing under the lonely sand. The fort is now garri soned by a detachment of the Khyber Rifles, a force raised in our service from among the tribes of the pass. This levy is of great utihty. It garrisons the pass, and escorts caravans on the way to and from Cabul. In its ranks are many who fought against us at Aii Masjid, but they are now faithful servants of the British crown. " The various tribes inhabiting the pass are wild and warlike, inured to guerilla warfare, and regard- 4 50 TROPICS AND SNOWS less of life. The men are fair, and of fine aspect, and many of them of a Semitic cast of features. By the distribution of subsidies, and by the raising of a levy from their own people, the wild tribesmen have become more or less subservient to British rule, and the bloodshed and lawlessness of former days have given way to a condition of comparative peace and quiet. Nevertheless, the Afridis are not to be trusted. They are jealous of their freedom, and ready to resent any encroachment on their rights. They are subservient only to the force of arms and the power of gold. The wolf sleeps, but is not dead ; the fire of hatred has burnt low, but is not extinguished. " At the farther end of the pass is Landi Kotal, where a large caravanserai has lately been built, and at which, it has been rumoured, the establishment of a cantonment is contemplated. Such an advance would be fraught with importance, as it would finally secure the shortest route to Cabul ; and, in the event of our having again to enter Afghanistan by force of arms, it would open out one of the prin cipal roads, which has in former years caused no little opposition to the advance of our armies." This was written nearly ten years ago, and history has since proved that the wolf indeed only slumbered, and has arisen like a giant refreshed. And if carpet-bag party politicians, fireside strate gists, and dilettante-tacticians could see this moun tainous frontier country, and appreciate the difficulties of a military expedition against its warlike inhabit ants, there would be less talk of incompetence and failure in the conduct of the late campaign in Tirah. THE PUNJAB 51 Towards the end of 1888 I was transferred to a regiment stationed at Ferozepore, where I spent a few months before proceeding on leave to Kashmir. The approach to Ferozepore does not present that place in a very inviting aspect. Crossing the great bridge over the Sutlej at Ganda Singh, one sees a great dome of reddish dust hiding a considerable portion of the flat desert country. This cloud of dust contains the station of Ferozepore. Arriving there in December, I saw the canton ment at its best, the nights being very cold, and the days sufficiently cool to render a fire necessary. The climate there was pleasant and healthy, and the sport obtainable on the Sutlej River was excel lent. On the river we had many a good day's shooting, crocodiles, geese, duck, ancl teal forming the usual bag ; and occasionally we shot some hares, partridges, and sand-grouse in the jungle west of the cantonment. One day I went to a place in the small independent state of Faridkot, to try and shoot some antelope, but met with no success. The son of the rajah was shooting on the same day, and I had an opportunity of observing the method em ployed by him. He had a long line of flags placed at intervals of about a yard from each other, with an open space of some ten yards left in the middle of the line. A troop of mounted men then drove the surrounding country for antelope, which, on being hunted towards the line of flags, made for the open space, and were shot by the sportsmen, who were concealed close by, as they galloped past. At the beginning of the cold weather numbers 52 TROPICS AND SNOWS of wild-fowl came down to the plains of India from the far north. Quantities remain on the five great rivers of the Punjab and their tributaries, whilst others speed on to the south, settling on all the rivers and lakes from end to end of the peninsula. Flights of grey crane line the river banks ; flocks of geese, both grey and barred-headed, come down to the water, and feed in the surrounding grain-fields ; whilst countless myriads of duck and teal of almost every variety throng in their thousands wherever there is water. In February and March all these birds fly north again over the Himalayan barrier and across the Hindu Khush. Whither they go I know not, but probably their summer home is in the deserts of Siberia and the plains of Afghanistan and Persia. In order to give some idea of the kind of sport obtainable on the Punjab rivers, I cannot do better than describe a day's shooting on the Sutlej River near Ferozepore. In the middle of February 1889, accompanied by two friends, I drove across country in an ecca, or native two-wheeled pony-cart, to a place of boats on the Sutlej River, about twelve miles above the great bridge at Ganda Singh. Here we embarked in a large cargo-boat of curious manufac ture, shaped like a mud-flat, with a high wooden screen at the prow, rendering it an excellent vessel for wild-fowl shooting. A gentle breeze stirred the surface of the Sutlej, a mighty stream rolling between high banks and through stretches of sand. On either side lay level plains, unrelieved by any hill or other eminence, sandy and drear, a howling wilderness, broken here and there by a patch of THE PUNJAB 53 cultivation or a stretch of tall elephant grass. We floated slowly down the river for some little time without seeing any living thing save the bright blue and red kingfishers which flashed from bank to bank, and the black and white ones which hovered motionless over the stream, and then, having dropped like a stone into the water, rose again bearing a silvery prize. Soon we saw many duck flying to and fro, and before long a large flock of birds was sighted, settled on a spit of land jutting out into the river, some five hundred yards ahead. On a nearer approach being made, we discovered that these birds were barred-headed geese. On, on we floated silently down with the current, whilst the geese, all unconscious of their impending danger, sunned themselves on the sand, some sleeping peace fully with their heads under their wings, and others pluming their long feathers. At length we arrived within twenty yards of the birds, now beginning to wake up and look suspiciously in our direction, cackling the while with outstretched necks. Then we rose as one man, and two deadly volleys were poured in among the luckless geese. When the smoke cleared ancl the feathers settled down, we went to pick up the dead and dying, amounting to eleven birds, some of which still paddled feebly. The wild goose is generally a very wary bird, and I have never since succeeded in getting up to a flock of them ; but this lot must have been particu larly foolish, for they allowed us to get within shot again, and six more were added to our bag. All this time large flocks of duck and teal were flying about, but they warily kept at a distance from our boat. 54 TROPICS AND SNOWS and few came within shot; however, we managed to bring down some stray ones during the next half-hour. We now turned our attention to a large crocodile which was basking in the sun about a hundred and fifty yards offi He was lying on the bank with his head towards the river, his long pointed snout only a few feet from the water ; so that, unless killed on the spot, there would be little chance of recovering his body. I rested my rifle on the gunwale of the boat, and, when within a hundred yards of the monster, planted an express bullet between his neck and shoulder. The struggles of that saurian were tremendous. He made a great leap on receiving the shot, and then his tail began to work like a flail, whilst the blood streamed from his gaping jaws. However, he could not move from his place, and stopped kicking in a few moments ; we dragged the twelve-foot carcase into the boat, and went on down the river. Two more crocodiles were slain in this manner, but we lost some wounded ones, so gave up shooting at them. Unless hit in a vital spot and killed at once, these creatures will always drag themselves into the water and sink. The Sutlej crocodiles are not the blunt-nosed man- eaters, but have long narrow jaws, like an elongated beak, and subsist principally on fish. Their jaws, however, are furnished with very ugly-looking and formidable rows of sharp teeth, and a wounded one will snap viciously at his captor. The duck on these Punjab rivers are difficult to approach, and a large bag is seldom made with a twelve-bore gun. In the ponds and marshes near the rivers they are easier to circumvent, and I have THE PUNJAB 5 5 made many a good bag in such places, and thinned out many a flock of common and blue-winged teal. On this occasion we saw many more duck and teal, but shot few, and towards evening we arrived at Ganda Singh, unloaded the boat, and counted the game. The total bag amounted to three croco diles, seventeen geese, and a number of duck and teal, besides a few birds of nondescript character. No doubt more could be done with large- bore guns, but there is more sport in shooting with a twelve- bore, and I would rather bring down a single mallard, flying swiftly down the wind, with such a gun, than shoot half a dozen with a four-bore. In April I obtained four months' leave to Kashmir, so left Ferozepore and travelled to that promised land by way of Rawal Pindi and Murree. CHAPTER IV KASHMIR Journey to Kashmir — Road to Kohala — The Jhelum River — The Happy Valley — The Wular Lake — March up the Mountains — Camp in the Snow — An Avalanche — Moonlight March — VaUey of the Kishengunga — Gurais — Ibex — View from a Mountain Pass — Prom Tilail — The Satai Nullah — Bear shot in the Zadgai — Red Bears — Sheep-killing Bear — Bear missed — Keen Scent of Bears — Two Bears seen — Another Bear — Ibex chased by Ounce — Mist on the Mountains — A Mountain Tarn — A Cunning Musk-deer — Four Bears seen — In the Clouds — Snow-leopards. On the 12th April 1889 I left the dreary plains of the Punjab behind me, and, accompanied by a friend, drove in a tonga, or cart drawn by a pair of ponies, from sunrise to sunset, along the Kashmir road. A drive of forty miles brought us to the pretty little hill-station of Murree, where I had passed my two months' leave during the hot weather of the previous year. Without halting at Murree, we drove on to Kohala, a village on the boundary between British territory and that of the Maharajah of Kashmir. As far as Kohala thc road wound along the sides of the hills, below which lay fertile valleys, and at times unfathomable gorges, whose black depths were almost concealed by the thick foliage. Early the following morning we proceeded on our journey, crossing a bridge over the river, where the Jhelum, pent up in a narrow gorge, rushes foaming over broken rocks between high banks. 66 KASHMIR 57 I believe one can now drive all the way from Rawal Pindi to Srinagar, but in those days Garhi was the limit to which wheeled traffic could go, and from there we had to complete our journey on foot. We had to hurry on as fast as possible, as we desired to secure a good shooting-ground. It was therefore necessary to keep ahead of other sports men, for, according to the etiquette of Kashmir shooting, the man who first arrives on the ground and pitches his camp in a valley, acquires the ex clusive right of shooting over the country in the vicinity. Beyond Garhi there are five stages, a distance of sixty-five miles, to Baramulla, but we accomplished the journey in two long marches and one short one. To within five miles of Chakoti our way lay along a broad, tortuous road which was in course of construction in the valley of the Jhelum. The road was in some places tunnelled through the solid rock ; in others bridged over deep ravines ; and at times, when winding along the mountain side, was rugged and uneven. We had some diffi culty in getting our baggage along, although we had taken very little with us. What we had was loaded on an ecca, or two-wheeled pony- cart, and on one occasion we had to take our cart to pieces, carry it over a ravine, ancl put it together again on the other side. The first day we rested at the ddlc- hungalow at Chakoti, and the next at Uri, thirty- one miles farther. Some of the travellers' bungalows were very comfortable and well-furnished, but others were dreadful hovels, and at most of them we ex perienced considerable difficulty in obtaining any thing fit to eat. 58 TROPICS AND SNOWS From the low hills above Baramulla we obtained our first view of the Happy Valley, embosomed below in the midst of the Himalayas. Beneath stretched broad green meadows, through which the river Jhelum, famed as the Hydaspes in ancient days, wound its course between low banks lined with trees ; and beyond lay the dark waters of the Wular lake, backed by the snowy mountains that towered above. Wishing to reach our shooting-ground as soon as possible, we did not proceed to Srinagar, but engaged shikaris at Baramulla, and, having hired tents and such scanty furniture as we required, hastened on towards the snow-covered mountains. One has to be very careful in engaging shikaris, for the majority of them are great rascals, whose sole object is to get as much as possible out of their employers. I was fortunate in securing the services of a good, honest fellow, who proved himself an excellent man in every way. After eighteen hours' journey by boat up the Jhelum and across the Wular lake, we disembarked at Bandipura, and marched thence to Kralpura, where we pitched our camp at the foot of the hills. At this time of the year the climate of Kashmir is delightful, and, after the heat of the Punjab plains, the country did indeed seem to merit its title of an earthly paradise. Having with some difficulty collected coolies and supplies of grass shoes, rice, and other necessaries not obtainable in the wilds for which we were bound, we marched next morning to Tragbal, a steep climb to the top of the mountains, where we pitched our tents KASHMIR 59 in a clearing in the snow. Here it was bitterly cold at night. The icy wind rustled in the pine-trees, and whistled through the openings in my tent, and once I was awakened by the roar of an avalanche that thundered down the mountain-side not far off'. These avalanches are sometimes the cause of serious loss of life, and a young army surgeon, whom I knew at Multan, perished with all his camp the previous year, being overwhelmed in the Sind valley. Some hours before daybreak we marched by moonlight, in order that we might be able to walk over the snow without difficulty before its frozen surface should be melted by the heat of the sun. Crossing the Rajdiangan Pass we descended to the valley of the Kishengunga, and encamped at Kanzel- wan, sixteen miles from our last halting-place. From here to Gurais was only eight miles ; so we marched next day through that village to Zarwan, five miles farther on, at the foot of the pass leading into the Tilail district. Between Kanzelwan and Gurais the stream of the Kishengunga flows through green pastures amid high mountains, forming here and there a reedy marsh, or a deep dark pool beneath spreading trees. Farther on, the torrent rushes over fallen rocks, under depths of snow and through dark ravines. The Gurais valley is broad and fertile, and contains several prosperous-looking villages. The inhabitants own large flocks of sheep and goats, and possess a great many strong but small ponies. I'hese ponies make very good baggage animals, and are far preferable to the coolies, who can carry only comparatively small loads. At this early season of the year the 6o TROPICS AND SNOWS snow lay thick on the ground over the passes, so we were unable to make use of any but coolie-transport. Just above the principal village of Gurais stands a lofty, almost perpendicular cliff, where my shikari pointed out a herd of ibex, and said there were a few fine ones still remaining. The herd was distinguish able through the binoculars, but I decided not to wait for them, but to push on to Tilail. On 22nd April I crossed the path to the south-east and descended into Tilail, marching sixteen miles, whilst my companion remained at Zarwan to shoot in the surrounding nullahs. On the summit of the high pass between Gurais and Tilail I rested on a snow-covered plateau, where the silver birch-trees spread their wintry branches to the blast. From this high eminence a splendid view was obtained. Beneath lay a deep ravine with precipitous sides, clothed with dark pine-trees, tier upon tier laden with snow. To the north the sun shone on the eternal snows of Nunga Purbat, and shed his rays upon the glaciers of Dyamur. Far far away, bound ing the range of vision, the colossal heights of the Roof of the World loomed through the misty atmo sphere, forming a majestic and awe-inspiring scene. The rocky valleys, the ranges of rugged mountains with their mighty peaks, like dazzling emblems of eternity, looked down unchanged through all time on the vale below. That day I encamped opposite the village of Prom Tilail, at the entrance to the Satai nullah, thus securing the exclusive right of shooting there as long as I remained in the valley. Leaving camp before dawn next morning, I started out in search of my A HERD OF IBEX. KASHMIR 6i first bear, taking with me a double-barrelled express rifle and a Winchester repeating rifle. Crossing into the neighbouring Zadgai nullah, my shikari pointed out the tracks of two bears, which we followed for some distance until the path of one could be seen to cross the heights to our left, whilst the other animal had evidently entered the forest on the right. Suddenly there was a rustling in the brushwood, and there appeared a huge dark object scrambling through the snow, discerned now and then between the stems of the pine-trees. The bear had scented us, and was making a bolt of it. I fired several snap-shots in vain as glimpses of the animal were obtained through the intervals between the trees, and splinters of wood flew all round him. At leugth the bear emerged from the forest, and ran up a snow-drift in the open about two hundred and fifty yards off, where, by a lucky shot, I hit him far back. He stumbled but ran on, and was soon lost to view behind a barrier of snow. We had a desperate climb up hill and through the snow, and it was some time before we found the bear's tracks and quantities of blood. He was evidently hard hit, for blood lay a,bout in great gouts. We followed these tracks, and, about two hours after the animal had been first viewed, came suddenly upon him lying down, apparently asleep, a couple of yards off under a pine-tree. I fired into the mass of fur, and the bear half-raised himself on to his hind legs, and tried to get at me, but the second bullet sent him rolling over and over down hill for about three hundred feet, when he picked himself up and stood under a tree. Then, haying no 62 TROPICS AND SNOWS cartridges left for the express rifle, I had to follow the poor beast up and finish him off with the Win chester. This was an immense bear, over seven feet long and very fat, his gigantic size no doubt account ing for the large amount of lead he took, as generally not much difficulty is experienced in killing these bears. He was the largest of his species I have seen, and they appear to seldom attain a much greater length than six feet. The coat was a splendid one, the hair very long and thick, of a silver-grey colour above and a reddish-brown underneath. From October to May these red or snow bears ( Ursus isahellinus) have beautiful coats, but the hair falls out during the hot weather, and my shikari informed me that the animal was not worth shooting between July and September. A few days after the above -recorded adventure a bear killed a sheep not far from my camp, but, by the time of my arrival on the scene. Bruin had made off and left the remains of his prey to the vultures and other scavengers. When a bear takes to killing sheep, which is happily not often, he does an im mense amount of damage. This particular bear had been a scourge to the surrounding villages for years, but he was so cunning that, although several sports men had been after him, no one had succeeded in getting a shot. His plan was to visit the sheepfold in the dead of night, and then kill all he could lay claws upon. Sometimes he woukl carry a few off', and they were occasionally found buried in the snow or ground in the vicinity, but his visit was usually only marked by the discovery in the morning of a heap of dead and dying sheep, killed apparently out KASHMIR 63 of sheer wantonness. This beast's depredations con tinued at intervals during the whole period of my stay in the Tilail district. One night he killed and wounded ten sheep, and carried off two of them ; but he would never remain long in one place, ancl it was in vain that I searched the hill-sides for him. As a rule the snow-bear feeds on roots, berries, and insects, which latter he finds under the stones on the hill-sides, but he is also said to have carnivorous propensities, ancl to be not averse to feeding on the carcases of any animals he may find, such as ibex that may have been overwhelmed by avalanches. After killing my first bear I had a run of bad luck, partly owing to unfavourable weather, for it snowed or rained almost continually, and, although I toiled over the mountains day after day, ancl spent hours in the snow, nothing was seen for a fortnight except two ibex, which were not worth shooting by reason of their small size. At the end of a fortnight my camp was moved five miles up the Satai nullah, ancl pitched amid a thicket of white birch-trees close to the stream, and beneath the shadow of a high precipice. Soon after my arrival in camp, a man who had been sent out to look for game brought in news of a bear he had seen about a mile off. After a stiff climb we viewed the bear at the bottom of a ravine, where he was lying down in the shadow of some bushes about two hundred yards off. Owing to the shingly sides of the ravine, we could get no nearer, so, resting my rifle on a rock, I took a steady aim on a patch of white fur on the animal's shoulder and fired. But, alas ! the bullet passed over him and plunged into 64 TROPICS AND SNOWS the snow beyond, whilst the bear disappeared behind some rocks, followed by another unsuccessful shot. A short time afterwards we saw Bruin going off over the snow at a heavy gallop, and it was useless to pursue him, as there was no saying how far he might travel. Another week passed in a vain search for bears, but none were seen until 12th May, when we found one feeding on the southern slope of a low hill about five hundred yards off. On either side of us rose an inaccessible precipice, leaving only one line of approach. The wind was unfavourable, as it was blowing right up the ravine, so there was little chance of a successful stalk. We moved cautiously on for about fifty yards, hoping to find a way of climbing the cliffs on one side, and so get above the . bear ; but it was of no avail. The beast ceased grubbing in the grass, looked around, nose in air, and in a moment was off up the rocks and into the pathless forest. These bears are easily approached, if stalked against the wind, for their eyes are very small, and they cannot see far ; but they have a wonderfully keen scent. One puff of wind from the stalker's direction, when at a distance of four or five hundred yards from the game, is sufficient to spoil all chance of getting a shot. A few days later I went to look for this bear again, and was caught in a heavy snowstorm, so had to take shelter under some rocks until it cleared. At about two o'clock in the afternoon two bears came over a hill on the opposite side of the ravine, and scrambled down a snow-drift, playing like a couple of great dogs. They were a very long way off, and I watched KASHMIR 6s their gambols for some time with the aid of my binoculars, hoping that they might come nearer, but was doomed to disappointment. After scamper ing about, rolling and playing in the snow for half an hour, they entered the depths of the forest, and we never saw them again. Next day we visited the same place, and tracked the two bears' for a long way over the mountains. Towards afternoon it came on to snow, and I gave up the chase in despair, so the shikari lighted a fire under a big pine-tree, where we sat down to warm ourselves and dry our wet clothes. After a time the sky cleared, and we walked along the crest of a long mountain, following the spoor of a snow-leopard for some distance, and then descended to the valley beneath. Looking up from below in the direction we had come from, I saw a fine bear rooting up the grass about six hundred yards off. On the way down we must have passed close by him, hidden from view by some rocks. Now, however, it was hopeless, for the wind was blowing up hill. Almost as soon as we saw him he took alarm and sat up on his haunches, looking in our direction. Then turn ing round he trotted off, and soon disappeared over the crest of the hill. On 17th May I saw a great deal of game, but was singularly unlucky. Starting in the early morning we came on the tracks of a herd of ibex, which had apparently been chased into the valley by an ounce, and had crossed the river by a snow-bridge during the night. The shikari, with skilful deciphering of the tracks, said there were thirteen animals in the herd, but we never 5 66 TROPICS AND SNOWS saw them. Ibex will travel for miles when thus pursued. We then climbed up the mountain-side, and ascended to the highest peak. The mountains were clad in a veil of mist ; the clouds rolled through the dark woods, hung round the beetling crags, and floated in white fleecy fragments in the vale below. At length the mist cleared, and the sun rose and melted the light clouds, which disappeared in the infinite azure. A placid tarn was disclosed em bosomed in the plateau beneath, surrounded by streaks of snow through which the young grass sprouted. On the brink three hornless stags were cropping the grass, but I did not disturb them, in spite of the entreaties of my shikari, who begged me to shoot one for food. In the afternoon we descended some distance, and had a long chase after a large, light-coloured musk-deer ; but it was knowing and wary, and I could not get a shot. My shikari informed me that this deer was a solitary male that had frequented the same spot for years, and that two seasons before a sportsman had fired seven shots at it without effect, so it was not surprising that the animal would not allow me to get within shot. Towards evening we sighted a very large bear. He came down the snow a long way off in the hills, and commenced feeding on the side of a small nullah. We started to stalk him, but with little hope of success, for the way was long and difficult, several ravines lay in our path, and it was beginning to get dusk. Whilst toiling up hill I happened to glance to my right, and looked towards the ground over which we had been wandering during the day. And KASHMIR 6y then forth from behind some rocks not more than six hundred yards off issued a big she-bear followed by two half-grown cubs, coming straight towards us. They topped the brink of the ravine ; descended, still coming in our direction, and reached the snow drift close to the place where we had crossed it earlier in the day. Suddenly the bears halted. There were our unfortunate footprints, the marks showing out clearly on the white, smooth surface. Fatal footsteps ! The old bear looked round sus piciously, put her nose down to the snow, then turned, and, followed by her cubs, rushed up the mountain-side, and was soon lost to view in the deepening shades. It was now becoming quite dark, and it was useless to attempt to follow the big bear we had first seen, so there was nothing for it but to return disconsolately to camp, where we arrived tired and hungry late at night. Next day I left my camp before daybreak, and went up to the highest hills to look for the bears. Soon after we reached the summit the whole moun tain became enveloped in thick clouds, so that we could only see a few yards, and were obliged to sit down and wait until the clouds cleared off. We then started along a ridge dividing two large nullahs, and in the snow, not more than fifty yards from the place where we had been waiting, discovered the fresh tracks of a snow-leopard. There were plain marks where the great cat had sat up, and it must have been sitting there while we were befogged in the clouds, for there were no tracks when we first arrived on the ground. We followed the trail for a long distance, until at length it left the snow-line, and 68 TROPICS AND SNOWS could not be traced any farther. The snow-leopard is a rare animal, and is seldom seen, probably on account of its nocturnal habits. They have some times been shot when following ibex or feeding on the bodies of their victims, but the sportsmen who have met with them must be accounted very fortu nate. There must have been several of these animals in the Satai nullah, for I saw their tracks almost daily, but never came across one. For some time after this I saw nothing. The weather was bad, and, although the bear and cubs were again viewed, we were unable to come up to them. CHAPTER V KABRUIU— (continued) Charge and Death of a Bear — Ferocity of Bears —Jackal killed by an Ounce — One Bear killed, another missed — Bad Luck — Bear and Cubs sighted — Desperate Climb — Death of two Bears — Bear in a Sheepfold — The Heights above Bernai — A Herd of Ibex — A Bear killed — Night in a Cave — Return to Gurais — Musk-deer — More Bears — Length of Red Bears — Return to the Valley — Black Bear shot at MuUingaon — The Lolab Valley — Voyage to Srinagar — The Venice of the East — Bridges in Srinagar — Horrible Slums — Kashmiris — The Chenar Bagh — Flight of Importunate Mer chants — The Dal Lake — Life in a House-boat — Unsuccessful Search for Black Bears — Colonisation of Kashmir — Mountain Villages — The Preservation of Game — Return to India. A MONTH had now elapsed since the first and only bear was shot, and day after day I had toiled up the mountains and over the snow for many hours without success. On the morning of 25th May, after having wandered far over the hills, I decided to rest for a while, so lit a fire and made myself comfortable with a greatcoat and blanket. Snow was falling at about one o'clock, when my shikari aroused me and pointed out a bear feeding below. A short stalk brought us to a distance of about a hundred yards above the place where the animal was engaged in digging up roots, but I made a very bad shot, and missed him. The bear looked round, and before I could put in another shot he came straight up the hill at us. I sat still until he got within twenty yards, and then fired. The bullet struck 70 TROPICS AND SNOWS him between the neck and left shoulder, and passed through his heart, killing him dead on the spot, and he rolled over and over to the bottom of the ravine, leaving great splashes of blood in the snow. On arriving at the foot of the hill we found that the carcase had rolled into a deep cavern under the frozen snow, and it required the united efforts of myself and my men to haul the heavy body to the surface. Having always been told that this species of bear is a very mild-tempered animal, never known to show fight, I have been in some doubt as to whether this one had any aggressive intention. Not being gifted with an acute sight or hearing, it is quite possible that he did not see me, or know where the strange noise, made by the rifle, came from. I am inclined to think, however, that this species is not less fierce than his black congeners, which have a well-earned reputation for ferocity. The fact is that the snow-bear is generally met with on open ground, and shot from a distance. Few animals will show fight in the open, or charge for a distance of more than a dozen yards. The black bear is usually found in thick jungle, and frequently met suddenly at a few paces distance. Given the same conditions, it seems highly probable that the snow-bear will be equally pugnacious. Some sportsmen rather affect to despise bear- shooting, as being poor sport compared with the pursuit of tigers and other more dangerous game. Certainly, the bear is generally a comparatively mild-tempered animal, but he can be crusty on occasion. Moreover, one shoots bears on foot, and KASHMIR 71 not from a safe position as is usually the case in tiger -shooting. Of course, when a wounded tiger has to be followed up on foot, the summit of danger is reached, for the charge of such an animal will generally be fatal to the sportsman ; whilst Bruin, although he can attack with a will, moves more slowly, and is therefore easier to stop. Even if he does get hold of one, the wounds inflicted by him, although sufficiently disagreeable, are not as likely to be fatal as those of a tiger or panther ; but authenticated cases are on record of sportsmen and others having been killed outright by bears. On my way back to camp after shooting this bear we found the remains of a jackal, evidently, from the marks in the surrounding snow, killed by a snow-leopard. The following day my tent was moved a long way up the nullah above a salt-lick, once a noted place for ibex. The ibex, however, have nearly all been killed off, and it is doubtful if any worth shooting remained in the Tilail district. Near this salt-lick I killed a small bear, and missed a very fine one. The small one was killed with a good shot through the head as he was running across my front about a hundred and fifty yards off. He fell across a mountain rill, with his shattered head in the water, and the pure crystal was turned to a crimson stream. The big one was a long way off, almost straight below me, and we could get no nearer owing to the steepness of the ground. He was an enormous animal, and of such a white colour, with the hair on his shaggy sides hanging nearly to the ground, that he looked like a polar bear. A 72 TROPICS AND SNOWS roundabout stalk brought us to the place where we had first seen him ; but he had moved off and taken up a position on a ridge on the opposite side of a ravine, whose precipitous declivity precluded all hope of a near approach. All this has taken a short time to relate, but the stalk had occupied five hours, and I was thoroughly done up on arriving on the rocks above. No doubt it would have been better to have waited for the animal to get to a more favourable place for stalking, but I was impatient, and did not like the idea of any more labouring up and down hill. It was a similar shot to the first one I had missed, my bullet again going high ; a second shot was equally unsuccessful, and we soon saw the white bear going right away over the snow. After this came some blank days, during which no game was seen. I had now been five weeks on my shooting- ground ; had fired at only five bears, and killed but three ; and was so disgusted with my bad luck that I determined to return to the Kashmir Valley, halt ing at all likely places on the way. My want of success all this time may be attributed principally to the unfavourable weather, for scarcely a day passed without rain or snow — a circumstance suffi cient to prevent the animals from emerging from their forest retreats until late in the evening, when the weather generally cleared. In the grey morning of 30th May I sent my tents on to Prom Tilail, at the entrance to the Satai nullah, intending to shoot my way along the valley and arrive in camp by nightfall. Crossing the river by a bridge of snow, we scaled the heights on the m uQ<be inopportune to make here some remarks regarding the killing of tiger cubs, a prac tice that is very prevalent among some sportsmen. Although there is an abundance of big garae still remaining in many parts of India, it is confined to a rauch more limited area than in days gone by. This may, no doubt, be ascribed in great measure to the increased population and to the spread of lines of communication over the land. Still, the extensive region of Government Reserved Forests, and the less accessible and more remote parts of the country, serve to afford a shelter for the wild animals, where they can increase and multiply, whilst the game laws in force in certain parts of the country further contribute to the preservation of game of all kinds. It is, however, in the more accessible parts of the peninsula that the decrease of game is noticeable. There are many localities where big game formerly abounded, but where in these days no wild aniraal is to be met with. And this is not entirely due to the causes detailed above, nor to fair shooting. In reading almost any old book on big-game shooting, one sees how cows, does, and TIGER-SHOOTING 331 hinds, according to their kind, were indiscriminately slaughtered, whilst the young of all animals were considered fair game. Nowadays, things are better in some respects. The killing of females of the ungulata is considered unsportsmanlike, so also is the destruction of their young, which is consequently seldom indulged in. What I would urge is, with reference to deer, bison, and such animals, that the unlimited slaughter of males should also be discountenanced, and that sportsmen should be satisfied when a few heads of each species have been obtained. I would further suggest that the immunity enjoyed by the young of harmless animals should be extended to the young of dangerous game, such as tigers and bears. Fair shooting does compara tively little harm, but the promiscuous slaughter of females and young must in tirae bring about a serious diminution, if not an entire destruction, of game. I fear that the practice of the slaughter of tiger cubs is, from my own observation during the last few years, only too prevalent. There can surely be no two opinions on this question among true sportsmen ; and it may be presumed that, theo retically, most men will agree that the practice is a reprehensible one, and should be discontinued in the same manner as the slaying of does and hinds and their young. The plea that tigers are dangerous and destruc tive animals, and should therefore be destroyed irrespective of age or sex, will not hold water for a moment. For it may be assumed that sportsmen shoot for the sake of sport, and not from motives 332 TROPICS AND SNOWS of philanthropy. And as sportsmen deplore the decrease of garae, it is to their interest to coramit no acts tending towards that decrease, more than is rendered necessary by fair shooting. And the killing of the young of any animal, whether tiger or deer, cannot be terraed fair shooting. The cub has no chance of escape, it is not dangerous to pursue, and it does not yield a trophy of any value. To what, then, must we ascribe a practice, wanting in every element of sport, which is as reprehensible as it is prevalent? Beyond doubt, to the desire, among some men, of being able to boast of having obtained a big bag, regardless of what the bag consists, provided the animals composing it may be referred to as tigers. For the public is in such cases not generally informed that the bag consists of so many tigers and so many cubs. The animals are usually all referred to as tigers, irrespective of their size ; and I have even heard it stated that one sportsman was in the habit of counting in his bag tigers yet unborn, and of claiming the reward for their destruction. It may be urged that cubs deprived of the raother-tigress would assuredly perish, being unable to provide food for themselves. But to this con tention it may be retorted, that tigresses with cubs should not be molested ; whilst, however, should the tigress be inadvertently killed, and the cubs be too small to look after themselves and too large to capture, it would of course be better to shoot them than to leave them to perish miserably of starvation. It is probably only necessary to call the attention of sportsmen to this subject, in order to obtain their full concurrence with the justice of these remarks. TIGER-SHOOTING 333 and it is to be hoped that the wanton killing of tiger cubs will be so far discountenanced in future as to call down well-deserved obloquy on the per petrators of such deeds. In a chapter devoted exclusively to tiger-shooting, it may be considered necessary to make some remarks on the length of tigers, but I have no wish to join in any such controversy. I therefore merely append the measurements, carefully taken in a straight line, and not round the curves of the body, of twenty- seven tigers brought to bag by me in the Deccan in the years 1895, 1896, 1897. j Measurements 1 of Skull from Animal. Length of HeaA and 1 Body. Length of Tail. Total Length. end to end and across Eemarks. Zygomatic Arches. ft. in. ft. in. ft. in. inches. 1. Tigress 5 6 ; 3 0 8 6 114x8 2. Tiger 6 5 3 2 9 7 134 X 8S 3. „ 6 i 3 0 9 4 134 x8S i. „ 6 3 3 0 9 3 13 x8^ 5. „ 6 3 3 0 9 3 13 x8i 6. „ 6 0 3 0 9 0 13 x8-i /. ,, 6 8 3 0 9 8 14 x94 8. ,, 6 5 3 2 9 7 13f x9i 9. „ 4 9 2 6 7 3 llix74 A young tiger. 10. Tigress 5 8 2 10 8 6 llJxS n. „ 5 3 3 0 8 3 iHx7i 12. ,, 5 2 2 8 7 10 lltx7J 13. ,, 5 2 2 11 8 1 llf x8S 14. Tiger 6 6 3 0 9 6 14|x94 15. Tigress 5 5 2 10 8 3 Hi X 75 16. „ 5 2 2 10 8 0 114x78 17. Tiger 5 10 3 0 8 10 134 X 9i 18. Tigress 5 3 2 11 8 2 111 X 74 19. Tiger 5 8 2 11^ 8 74 134 x9| 20. Tigress 5 3 2 11 8 2 llix7J 21. Tiger 6 1 3 0 9 1 131 X 9^ 22. „ 5 6 3 0 8 6 124x81 23. ,, 6 0 3 U 9 U 13ix9l .24. Tigress 5 24 3 14 8 4 111, x 84 25. Tiger 5 11 2 11 8 10 13ix8J 26. ,, 5 11 3 1 fl 0 13yx9i 27. „ 5 1 3 1 8 2 334 TROPICS AND SNOWS This expedition finished my big-game shooting for the present, with the exception of a bear and a panther which I brought to bag at Singhi, some twenty miles from Hingoli, towards the end of May. In November I obtained a year's leave, and embarked for England, hoping to return some day and revisit those jungles where it has been my lot to meet with such good sport. And what recreation could be more desirable ? What greater pleasure can man have than this wan dering in wild places, far from the track of civilisation and from the turmoil and trouble of the world, with his trusty shikaris, his rifle, and the wild beasts for companions ? Such adventures give us something to think of, something to look back upon from the dreary waste of the years to come, when the "jungle- call " shall no longer sound in our ears. The grinning feline skull that stands upon the bracket, the striped skin that decks the floor, will bring back to the memory thoughts of glorious clays. Such thoughts, such recollections, will remain and gladden the heart when the eye has grown too dim to draw a bead, the hand too feeble to raise a rifle to the shoulder, ancl naught remains save the trophies of the chase and the contemplation of the past. CHAPTER XIX A MONTH IN NORWAY Voyage to Europe— Brindisi — Naples — Pompeii — Rome — Voyage to Norway — Travelling in Norway — Bergen — The Sogn Fjord — Vadheim — Sande — The Vilis Lalve — Trout in Norway — A Fisher man's Cottage— Norwegian Hotels — Langeland — Ferde Hafstadt — Timber in Norway — Nedre Vasenden — A Land of no Night — The Jolster Lalie and River — Voyage to Skei — The great Jolster Glacier — Fishing at Skei — The Bredheim Lake — Sombre Scenerj'- — Absence of Fauna — Great Lake Trout — " Otters •' — The Sandals Lake — The Red River — A Wonderful Valley — Remnants of the Glacial Epoch — Moraines — Red — Return Journey — Character of the Norwegians. At the end of 1897, having obtained a year's leave, I left Bombay in the steamer Egypt, and arrived at Brindisi after a voyage of some twelve days, if possible a more monotonous journey than usual, for we had come from a plague-infected port, and were not permitted to land anywhere en route. Brindisi is not an interesting port, except from its associations to us Anglo-Indians, as being the ultima thule of Europe, the southern point whence we sail for the East on our departure, and land again on our return, perhaps after many years. At this place we are inclined to look back through the vista of long years to the day when we first stood here, looking towards the East, which was then a land of promise to us ; and drearat dreams^ — -never to be realised, and nourished hopes — never to be fulfilled. Hence the 336 TROPICS AND SNOWS tide of life for ever flows eastwards, and ever returns in lessened volume, for to how many has this proved a Stygian shore, where they have embarked for a land of lost footsteps, never to return ! Having no inducement to remain at Brindisi, I journeyed along the western coast of Italy to Naples, and, having visited the lost city of Pompeii, passed on to see the wonders of Rome. But the attractions of the Eternal City were not sufficient to keep me there long, and I was glad to reach the shores of England again after some years of exile. The wanderer on the face of the earth soon tires of the calm joys of English country life, and the turmoil of great cities is apt to become wearisome to one who has been accustomed to pass the greater part of his time in the comparative seclusion of an Indian station. Yet one does not like to stray far from one's native land during the short period of hard-earned leave, ancl Europe generally offers but few attractions. Still there is a country yet remain ing on the tourist-ridden Continent where one can travel free and untrammelled amid a comparatively primitive civilisation, whilst the sport it affords adds to its attractions for most Englishmen. A voyage of some thirty-six hours will take the traveller frora Newcastle or Hull to Bergen, the principal port of Western Norway, and from Bergen all parts of the Scandinavian peninsula are more or less easily accessible by road, or by the coasting steamers which run up the fjords — those arms of the sea whence the vikings issued on their predatory excursions in the days when they overran almost the whole of Europe. The country has not yet been A MONTH IN NORWAY 337 spoilt by tourists, although it is visited annually by ever-increasing thousands, but the people do not exhibit that rapacity which characterises the in habitants of most Continental countries, who regard the British traveller as their lawful prey. The mode of travelling, whether by steamer or l>y carriage, is fairly comfortable. The vessels are well-appointed and commodious, whilst the vehicles procurable at the posting-stations are well-horsed by sure-footed though somewhat slow ponies. The fishing to be obtained is excellent. The salmon rivers are all rented at high prices, but trout-fishing is to be obtained free of cost in nearly all parts of the country. Late in June 1898 I made the voyage to Bergen in the Wilson Line steamer Eldorado from Hull, and arrived at my destination after a good passage in that excellent vessel. Bergen is situated at the head of a deep bay, enclosed by lofty mountains. There is not much of interest to be seen in the town, which is chiefly notable as being the oldest of the Hanse towns. It is said to be always raining there ; and the short period of my stay was no exception to the rule, for it poured incessantl}'. I remained there only long- enough to make the necessary arrangements for my journey, and then took passage by coasting-steamer up the Sogn Fjord to Vadheim. The voyage up the fjord was not particularly interesting, for the scenery on the coast is not as fine as it is in the interior of the country, being characterised by bare and barren rocks, which remind one somewhat of the shores of Arabia ; but farther up the fjord the mountains 338 TROPICS AND SNOWS were splashed with snow, and at times clothed with forests of birch and pine trees stretching down to the water's edge. Frora Vadheim a drive of nine miles through a rocky gorge, and along the bank of a river which at times widened out into small lakes, brought me to Sande, a hamlet situated on the bank of a fine stream that flows into the Sond Fjord. The river below a fall about half a mile from the hotel is let for salmon-fishing, but above that the proprietor has the right of fishing for some little distance. The trout here are of small size, and are not worth casting a fiy for ; the reputation of the river appears to rest principaUy upon a six-pound fish that was caught in front of the hotel some years ago. There is, however, a good pool in the river some four miles above Sande, where twenty-two trout, the largest weighing four pounds, were killed on the evening of my arrival. Better sport is obtainable in the Viks Lake, about five miles distant, where I had two clays fishing with the Devon minnow, basketing some fifty-six trout varying in weight from half a pound upwards. The lake is a fine sheet of water many miles long, surrounded by great forest-clad mountains, which frequently rise sheer from the water's edge. The trout in the Norway lakes and rivers vary greatly in appearance, although the differences are not considered by experts sufficient to justify their separation into distinct species, the varieties being generally ascribed to local conditions. But it is strange, if this is the case, that trout of varied shape and colouring are found not only in the same lake. A MONTH IN NORWAY 339 but in the same part of the water. I have caught in one part of a lake trout of silvery hue, with no pink spots ; and others more like English trout, with golden sides and pink spots, whilst the flesh of some of these fish is white, and of others is salmon- coloured. However, that water has a great deal to do with the colouring of trout is evident from the fact that fish of an almost black hue may be taken out of dark pools among the rocks, whilst the red colouring matter of streams containing iron is im parted to the inhabitants of its water, and those fish that live in the water flowing from snow and ice are generally of a light green colour, like the element in which they exist. At Viks I entered an old fisherman's cottage, by invitation. It was a most primitive habitation, built, like all Norwegian edifices, of planks on a basis of stone some three or four feet high. The roof was also of planks, with a layer of turf on the top, on which shrubs of considerable size were growing. The hotel at Sande is exceedingly comfortable, and its proprietor is a most courteous ancl obliging host, exerting himself in every way for the con venience of his guests. Like nearly all buildings in Norway, the hotels are all constructed of wood, and there is considerable danger of fire owing to the inflammable nature of the material. That fire is a very real danger, is evident from the precautions taken to secure the escape of the inmates in case of a conflagration. Each room is provided with a fire-escape, with instructions for its use ; but in my room at Sande there was no fire-escape, only 340 TROPICS AND SNOWS a notice to the effect that, in case of fire, the ¦occupant of the chamber should get out of the window and cross the sloping roof below, where he would find a ladder descending to the ground. Generally speaking, the hotels in Norway are very comfortable, ancl the proprietors are not grasping ; indeed, the unmercenary character of the Nor wegians, generally, is most noticeable. The usual charge in the country hotels is only four kroner •(or about four shillings) a day, inclusive of every thing ; so the cheapness of the country is another thing to recommend it to those whose means are limited. From Sande an uphill drive of seven miles brings the traveller to Langeland, where there is a posting- station and a farmhouse in which accoraraodation for a few visitors is available. There is said to be good fishing in the neighbouring lake, but I did not try it, and drove on seven miles farther to Ferde Haf stadt. This was a pleasant drive along a good road, that winds along the mountain-sides to the valley below. At one time the road skirts the shore of a lake, with precipitous rocks at the side. Just before reaching our destination we passed above a beautiful lake studded with small wooded islets, and surrounded by tall mountains. The calm surface of the lake was broken by innumerable rising fish, but the water appeared to be shallow, and it is doubtful if it holds trout of any size. Ferde Hafstadt is a considerable village, standing on the bank of a river near its mouth on the Sond Fjord, in a broad and fertile valley. The river is a good one for salmon-fishing, and a fish of fifty-one A MONTH IN NORWAY 341 pounds, killed here a few years ago, is outlined on the steps of the hotel. From Ferde I drove on fourteen miles to Nedre Vasenden, on the Jolster Lake, passing e?i route through a dense forest of fir and birch trees. The timber in Norway, or at least in this part of it, is disappointing, the trees of all kinds being very small, and far inferior to English and Scotch woods. I saw none of. the tall Norwegian pines that one hears so much about, for those that came under ray observation were comparatively insignificant in size. Nedre Vasenden is situated on the shore of the great Jolster Lake, an expanse of water sorae four teen miles in length, and varying from one to three miles in breadth. The Jolster River, famous for its trout, rushes out of the lake close to the hotel, whilst a fine waterfall was visible from the window of my room. At midnight I sat at my window listening to the roaring of the torrent, and looking out at the waterfall and the snow-clad mountains. At this time of the year, early in July, it was light enough to read at midnight, and Norway is then indeed a land of no night, although the evenings draw in rapidly towards the end of the month. The hotel at Vasenden is very comfortable, and can be recom mended for a prolonged stay, as the fishing in the neighbourhood is generally good. During my stay there the sport was spoilt by unfavourable weather, and I caught no fish over a pound in weight. The Jolster Lake, doubtless, contains some immense trout, and one of fifteen pounds was caught here last year ; but these great 342 TROPICS AND SNOWS fish seem to lie at the bottom of the deep water, and are seldom killed. The river at Nedre Vasenden holds good fish, and it affords the principal attraction to the many anglers who annually visit this place. It is a broad and rapid stream, with marshy banks, and it is necessary to wade in order to reach the best pools. A steamer runs thrice daily across the Jolster Lake to Skei, occupying about two hours on the voyage of fourteen miles, and on this I embarked after a few days' stay at Vasenden. The journey across the lake affords one a good opportunity of observing and admiring the beautiful scenery which is characteristic of this part of Norway. The Jolster Lake is bright and open, with mountains sloping down to its shores, partly covered with forest and partly with open pasture and cultivated land, amidst which stand many picturesque hamlets. In the distance snowy peaks pierce the sky, and near Skei the steamer passes an arm of the lake, at the head ¦of which the great Jolster glacier, the largest in Europe, can be seen where it crops out from beneath the snow-field on the mountain-tops. This glacier is crossed annually by a considerable number of tourists, but personally I preferred to view it from a distance, and desired to make no nearer acquaint ance with it. Indeed, I cannot understand the vanity that impels people to clirab mountains merely for the sake of saying that they have been there. At Skei I stayed sorae days, and caught some good fish both in the lake near the hotel, and at the head ofthe fjord where the glacier stream joins the waters of the lake. This stream is some seven miles A MONTH IN NORWAY 3-43 from Skei, and is therefore a good long pull ; but I used to take my lunch and go out for the whole day, whilst the journey was not wasted, for many fish could be caught on the wa}- b}' trailing a minnow behind the boat. The trout here are of fine size and quality, and the icy water from the glacier appears to endow them with extra vitality, so they afford good sport. Large fish are caught here not infre quently ; I myself was so fortunate as to capture a trout of six pounds weight, whilst two others of nearly nine pounds each were killed in the same locality. The great objections to Norway are the climate and the food ; but as regards the former the year was doubtless an unusually damp one, for it rained constantly during July, ancl when a cold wind was not prevalent the clouds hung low on the mountains, and sometimes descended to the surface of the water. Good meat does not appear to be obtainable in the country, and an everlasting diet of badly-cooked fish and eggs is apt to pall. From Skei I drove seven miles along the bank of a small stream to the shore of the Bredheim Lake, and there embarked myself and baggage on a large boat ro^yed by two men and a woman. They pulled across the lake to the village of Red, a voyage that occupied us nearly four hours, although the distance was not more than six or seven miles ; but the water was very rough, and a strong head wind was blowing. On the way I trailed a minnow behind the boat, and caught a fine trout and a grayling of one pound weight. Besides trout, grayling and char are the only fish that exist in these waters, and they appear to be scarce, and are seldom caught. 344 TROPICS AND SNOWS The Bredheim Lake is a vast and gloomy expanse of water, surrounded by sombre, precipitous moun tains, rising generally sheer from deep water, and clad with dark pine trees which cling in groups to the poor soil of the rocky heights. In the cold and rainy weather experienced there, I found this lake a most depressing place, and its sombre scenery reminds one of nothing so much as a picture from Dante's Lnferno. Few villages are seen upon the shore, and, except at Red, but little pasture land or cultivation are on the margin of the lake. It is a great expanse of dark water, surrounded by overhanging rocks ancl gloomy forests, from which thin waterfalls drop into the lake, ancl even on the rare occasions when I saw a gleam of sunshine the scenery did not lose its sombre aspect. In the vicinity are some tall moun tains topped by eternal snow, ancl sometimes fresh snow could be seen falling on the heights. The forests around the Bredheim Lake are of vast extent, and one would think that they should contain a considerable cjuantity of game, for they would afford many impregnable strongholds to wild aniraals. They are, however, singularly destitute of both animal and bird life, and this absence oi fauna appears to be characteristic of the whole of this part of Norway. One raay traverse railes of forest and see few signs of wild life stirring in the thickets. A few bears are at times seen on the higher moun tains, or occasionally give evidence of their presence by making depredations on the sheepfolds, but they are very scarce ; some lynxes, foxes, and hares are said to exist. Magpies and fieldfares are numerous, and an occasional falcon may be seen soaring over A MONTH IN NORWAY 345; the precipices that skirt the lakes, but birds are generally scarce. The reason for this is not very evident. There is a profusion of wild berries of A^arious kinds growing on the mountain-sides, whilst insect life is everywhere abundant ; so there is nO' lack of food for both furred and feathered denizens of the forest, whilst the mountains and woods offer innuraerable secure retreats. It is most probable that there has never been au abundance of wild life in a country where humaii life is in many parts alraost iraperceptibly sprinkled over the earth's surface, and where the inhospitable winter with its lone; nights is' so unfavourable tO' existence. The fishing on the Bredheira Lake is not gene- rally good, the fish being generally small ancl few in number. There is no doubt, however, that it contains some immense trout, and one of twelve pounds weight was caught this year by a gentleman who some years ago hooked and lost a fish which he estimated to weigh thirty pounds. I found the best place for fishing to be at some sawmills from four to five miles from the hotel, where mountain tor rents emptied themselves into the lake. The fishing is doubtless much spoilt by "otters," a poaching contrivance used by the natives. This is con structed of a weighted board, with a long line attached, furnished with a great number of flies. The end of the line is held by a man in a boat, the movement of which causes the flies to bob in vitingly up and down, and thus large numbers of fish are caught. I have seen on one evening five or six of these " otters" quartering the lake in front 346 TROPICS AND SNOWS of the village of Red, and they must be the cause of the destruction of innumerable fish. About nine miles from Red, near the source of a river, is the Sandals Lake, lying at the foot of an offshoot of the Jolster glacier, ancl said to be very good for fishing. But I killed very few fish there, probably owing to unfavourable weather, for an icy wind was blowing off the snows the whole time that I was on the lake. I worked my way back to Red along the stream, which contained beautiful pools and broad reaches, but the trout were small, and, of sorae forty I caught there, very few were worth keeping. The valley through which the river flowed appeared as if it had been subjected to sorae great cataclysm, being strewn with gigantic frag ments of rock covered with the moss of ages, which looked like the remnants of mountains that had stood there in bygone times. It was crossed in places by immense moraines, remains of the glacial period, during which the ice had deeply scored the faces of the rocks, and had formed, in the accumu lations of thousands of years, those great embank ments through which the river had forced its way in the course of countless ages. These great rocks and scored precipices and ancient moraines and rushing torrents bear witness of the age of the •earth. The contemplation of such vast spaces of time and such raighty works of nature are calcu lated to impress man with a sense of his own insignificance. For we, who think so much of the trifles that make up the sum of our trifling lives, will pass away into the illimitable eternity, leaving A MONTH IN NORWAY 347 no more impression on the course of time than a .-stone cast into the river, which will flow on whilst countless generations of men come and go. The hotel at Red is a quiet place, as it is not much frequented by travellers, being off the main tourist route. The food there is even less inviting than at most Norwegian hotels, and the angler who makes a stay of any length there is recoraraended to provide himself with a good supply of tinned provisions. But it is not a very desirable place to .stop at, and the situation of the hotel, in the middle ¦of the village, is not pleasant, whilst the fishing, already inferior to that obtainable in the Jolster Lake, is likely to greatly deteriorate every year, •o-wing to the poaching proclivities of the inhabitants, araong whom the landlord hiraself is the principal •offender. The scenery on the Bredheim Lake is indeed grand and imposing, and its gloomy and even awful aspect makes it distinct from that of the other lakfes I visited ; but a perpetual vision of gaunt precipices and dark forests and black waters becomes mono tonous in course of time, and one longs for the brighter shores and surroundings of the Jolster Lake. Perhaps the Bredheim would be more in viting in sunny weather, but it was not my fortune to see it under such favourable circumstances. From Red I turned back in rainy weather to ¦Skei, and fortunately came in for a fine week there, during which I had several good days' fishing, and was fortunate in killing a six-pound trout, which was landed after a quarter of an hour's play. There are said to be some immense .trout in 348 TROPICS AND SNOWS these great lakes, and fish well over thirty pounds- have certainly been caught ; whilst tradition has it that a seventy-pounder was netted in a lake near Ferde Hafstadt. The lakes are of great depth, and it may be conjectured that some monsters of the deep lie at the bottom, many fathoms below the surface. For good fishing one cannot do better than stay at the hotel at Skei, as the Jolster Lake is sure to afford excellent sport with both fly and minnow. There are three or four small lakes in the vicinity of Skei, but they do not appear to- contain many fish of a good size. There is also a sraall river running into the Bredheira Lake at Ferde, but the fish in it are not large, and in seven railes of it I caught only three or four trout worth keeping. Another day spent at Nedre Vasenden was not productive of much sport, and the remaining week of my stay was entirely spoilt by a deluge of rain, which poured incessantly. On the return journey I again visited the Viks Lake near Sande, and fished all day in the pouring rain, killing some twenty-eight trout, but none of them much over half a pound in weight. On the whole, from an angler's point of view,, the expedition cannot be said to have been entirely a success, except for the sport obtained at the Skei end of the Jolster Lake. But the country is one full of interest, with grand scenery, probably un surpassed in Europe, and with novel surroundings and few discomforts. The traveller cannot fail to- be attracted by the character of the people, who,. although quiet, and even raorose, are simple and A MONTH IN NORWAY 349 honest, and contrast favourably with other Con tinental nations. The long ancl sunless winter doubtless affects the temperament of the people, and in a country with such a climate one cannot expect to find the inhabitants as gay and joyous as those who live in brighter lands. PRINTED BT MORRISON AND GIBB LIMITED, EDINBURGH SELECTIONS FROM MR. EDWftRD ARNOLD'S LIST. WILD NORWAY. With Chapters on the Swedish Highlands, Jutland, and Spitzbergen. By Abel Chapman, Author of "Wild Spain," eic. With 17 full-page Illustrations and numerous smaller ones by the Author and Charles Whymper. Demy 8vo, i6s. A MINGLED YARN. The Autobiography of Edward Spencer Mott (Nathaniel Gubein.s), Author of " Cakes and Ale," etc. One Volume, large crown 8vo, 12s. 6d. THROUGH UNKNOWN AFRICAN COUNTRIES. The First Expedition from Somaliland to Lake Rudolf and Lamu. 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With full-page Illustrations. Demy 8vo, ids. 6d. London : EDWARD ARNOLD, 37 Bedford Street, Strand. November, 1898. Mr. Edward Arnold's New Books and Announcements. _ Telegraphic Address: 37 Bedford Street, 'Scholarly, London.' London. NEW AND FORTHCOIVIING WORKS. The Principles of Landed Estate Management. By HENRY HERBERT SMITH, Fellow of the Institution of Surveyors, and Agent to the Marquess of Lansdowne, K.G. ; the Earl of Crewe ; Major- General the Lord Methuen, etc. With Plans and Illustrations. One vol., demy 8vo., l6s. It is hoped that this volume will prove invaluable to landed proprietors, land agents, and all interested in agriculture. Mr. A. C. Forbes, Wood Manager to the Marquess of Lansdowne, contributes an important chapter on Forestry, and Mr. W. Bowstead, Barrister-at-Law, upon Legal Matters affecting the manage ment of a landed property. A portion of the book is devoted to Estate Archi tecture, the Construction of Farm Buildings, Cottages, etc. , and is illustrated by several plates Economic Science and Farm Practice, the methods of Agriculture, Surveying and Road-making, etc., are fully dealt with by Mr. H. Herbert Smith. Amateur Clubs and Actors. Edited by W. G. ELLIOT. With Illustrations by C. M. Newton, and from photography. One vol., large 8vo., iSs. This volume presents a lively record, by various contributors, of the history of the most prominent Amateur Acting Clubs, with reminiscences of the plays performed, and anecdotes of the players. Mr. Elliot, who has undertaken to edit the volume, deals with the Cambridge A. D. C. ; while Mr. J. W. Clark treats of the Greek Play at Cambridge. Mr. B. C. Stephenson records the doings of the Windsor Strollers ; Captain George Nugent the history of the Guards Burlesque. Mr. Yardley contributes some notes on the famous Amateur Pantomime and on the Canterbury ' Old Stagers ' ; Mr. Frank Tarver on Theatricals at Eton. Mr. Claud Nugent deals with the O. U. D. S. ; Mr. P. Comyns Carr with the Oxford Greek Play; Colonel Newnham Davis with Amateur Acting in India and the Colonies. The narrative of the doings of each club has been entrusted to one well qualified to undertake it, and the volume forms a valuable record as well as a most readable addition to the library. Phases of my Life. By the Very Rev. F. PIGOU, Dean of Bristol. With Photogravure Portrait. One vol., demy 8vo., l6s. The recollections of the Dean of Bristol are of scenes of clerical life, but of clerical life passed in many cities— in Paris, in London, at Doncaster, and at Bristol, and told with a wealth of anecdote and humour which will delight, not only the clergy, but their lay brethren. Dean Pigou's reminiscences touch human nature on many sides. His wide sympathies, his keen discernment, his humours and kindly satire, will appeal to readers of every class, while his serious criticisms will secure the attention which is due to his long experience and his calm and ripe judgment. The Life of Henry Morley. By the Rev. H. S. SOLLY. With Photogravure Portrait. One vol., large 8vo., I2s. 6d. The late Professor Henry Morley is best remembered for the great services he rendered to secondary and higher education, and for his successful endeavours to spread among the people an acquaintance with the English classic writers. The record of his life is certain to be welcome to the many students in every part of the United Kingdom who have valued his teaching and lectures at King's College, and when he filled the University Chair of English Literature at Edinburgh, or later at University College. But his diaries and letters will appeal to a still wider audience, with their record of his early struggles, his journalistic career as a contributor to Household Words, Fraser' s, the Examiner, etc., and his friendship with Forster, Douglas Jerrold, and Charles Dickens. Recollections of a Highland Subaltern During the Campaigns of the 93rd Highlanders in India, under Colin Campbell, Lord Clyde, in 1857, 1858, 1859. By Lieutenant-Colonel W. G. ALEXANDER. With three Photogravure Portraits, seven full-page Illustrations, and several Plans. One vol., demy 8vo., i6s. Colonel Alexander was actively engaged with his regiment in the relief of Lucknow, and in the subsequent Oudh campaign. He records his experiences from a diary which he kept throughout that time, and thus his account of the Mutiny, and of his experiences during it, has the charm of the feelings and opinions of an actor in the events noted while they were occurring. Notes from A Diary in Asiatic Turkey. By LORD WARKWORTH, M.P. With numerous Photogravure and other Illustrations frora Photographs by the Author. One vol., fcap. 4to., 21s. net. Lord Warkworth, accompanied by two other Members of Parliament, made in 1897-98 a journey of some months through Asia Minor, Armenia, and Kurdistan. The previous year he had visited Persia and parts of Asia Minor. In this volume he gives some record of his journey, and of his impressions upon some of the political aspects of the questions which still continue to be a disturbing influence in the near East, with an account of districts which are of supreme historical interest. Tropics and Snows A Record of Sport and Adventure in Many Lands. By Captain R. G. BURTON, Indian Staff Corps, late of the 1st West India Regiment. With Illustrations from Sketches and Photographs. One vol., demy 8vo., 1 6s. Captain Burton gives a spirited account in this volume of big-game shooting and of travel in Jamaica, the Punjab, Kashmir and Berar, on the Volga, at Hingoli, etc. Some chapters are devoted to Tiger Shooting, Bison Shooting, Panther Shooting, and the volume is full of records of successful expeditions after big game of all descriptions, which will render the work welcome to English sportsmen. Q's Tales from Shakespeare. By A. T. QUILLER COUCH {'Q.'), Author of 'Dead Man's Rock,' etc. One vol., crown 8vo., 6s. Tales from Shakespeare is a title inevitably associated with the name of Charles Lamb. But these tales, narrated by the charming pen of Mr. Quiller Couch, do not compete with, but are intended to supplement. Lamb's delightful book. Shakespeare's historical characters and plays were not included in the ' Tales ' of Charles Lamb. It is with these that Mr. Quiller Couch will deal, with some of the plays omitted from Lamb's collection. Newcastle-on-Tyne : its Municipal Origin and Growth. By the Honourable Daphne Rendel. With Illustrations, I vol., 8vo., 3s. 6d.^ Miss Rendel in this volume carefully traces the history and development of Newcastle, and gives a most interesting survey of the ¦fortunes of this border city in the past, and of its modern municipal growth. Reminiscences of the Course, the Camp, and the Chase. By a Gentleman Rider, Colonel R. F. MEYSEY-THOMPSON. One vol., large crowm 8vo. , los. 6d. Colonel Meysey-Thompson in this volume gives a lively description of his experiences of English racing and Irish sport, of bull -fights and racing in Spain, with reminiscences of school-life at Eton and of his military career. Hunting R,eminiscences of Frank Gillard, with the Belvoir Hounds, i860 to i8g6. Recorded and Illustrated by CUTHBERT BRADLEY. One vol., large 8vo., 15s. The Reminiscences of Frank Gillard, the illustrious huntsman of the Belvoir Hounds, means a complete record of the Hunt during the thirty-six years he was connected wilh it. Such a record, teeming with accounts of spirited runs, and anecdotes of well-known hunting-men of the past and of to-day, with valuable hints on the breeding of hounds, and their management in the kennel and in the field, is a volume which will be a prized addition to sporting literature. Those who have hunted with the Belvoir, and hunting-men everywhere, will be glad to secure this work about the most famous of packs, and the book will appeal to a wider audience, to all who are interested in good sport. Mr. Cuthbert Bradley, who records these reminiscences of Frank Gillard, has also illustrated the volume with a quantity of portraits and pen-and-ink sketches in the field. Days and Nights of Salmon Fishing. By WILLIAM SCROPE. Edited by the Right Hon. Sir Herbert Max well, Bart., M.P. With coloured lithographic and numerous Photogravure reproductions of the original plates. Laige 8vo., 15s. Large Paper Edition, limited to 200 copies. Two Guineas net. This is the final volume, Volume VIL, of the popular Sportsman's Library. Scrope's 'Art of Deerstalking' has already appeared in this Library, and the present volume is a reprint of the companion work, which is even more scarce and more richly illustrated. Full justice is done to the original plates, which are all of them reproduced in this edition. For a list of the other volumes in the Sportsman's Library, see page 16 of this catalogue. The Frank Lockwood Sketch-Book. Being a selection of Sketches by the late Sir FRANK LOCKWOOD, QCM.P. Oblong royal 4to., los. 6d. Also an Edition de Luxe of 50 copies, printed on Japanese vellum, £2 2s. net. This delightful volume, which contains a selection from the caricatures and humorous sketches of the late Sir Frank Lockwood, has been made possible by the kindness of Lady Lockwood, who put at the disposal of the publishers a number of the note-books of Sir Frank Lockwood, through the pages of which were scattered a host of his playful drawings. The various possessors of the caricatures and drawings which were brought together at the exhibition organized in London during the early part of 1898, also, at the request of the Barristers' Benevolent Society, gave consent to the reproduction ofa selection from these sketches in the present volume. Some of the sketches reproduced have already attracted general notice for their masterly execution and playful fancy, but a large number have never before been made known to the public. Tails with a Twist. An Animal Picture Book by E. T. REED, Author of ' Pre-Historic Peeps,' etc. With Verses by ' A Belgian Hare.' Oblong demy 4to., 3s. 6d. Mr. E. T. Reed's drawings in Punch are so well known and appreciated as to assure this picture-book of his a popular welcome. Many of the verses by 'A Belgian Hare,' which Mr. Reed illusirates in this book, though never before printed, have already gained some celebrity from being repeated by one person to another, and all are full of humour and vivacity. The Modern Traveller. By H. B. and B. T. B., Authors of ' More Beasts (For Worse Children).' One vol., 4to., 3s. 6d. This is a new book of pictures and verse by the authors of the ' Book of Beasts,' who in that book 'discovered a new continent in the world of nonsense.' In this new book of nonsense they strike off on a new track, which is likely to be as fruitful of amusement as their former attempts. BY THE SAME AUTHORS. More Beasts (For Worse Children). New Edition. One vol., 4to., 3s. 6d. Verses. By MAUD HOLLAND (Maup Walpole). Crown 8vo., 3s. 6d. Some of these Poems have already appeared in the Spectator, the Speaker, Literature, and the National Review, but the majority have not before been pubUshed. Moonfieet. By J. MEADE FALKNER, Author of 'The Lost Stradivarius.' Crown 8vo., 6s. The False Chevalier; or, The Lifeguard of Marie Antoinette. By W. D. LIGHTHALL. One vol., crown 8vo., 6s. This historical romance by a new writer is founded on a packet of worm-eaten letters found in an old house on the banks of the St. Lawrence. The intrigues, the intensity of feelings, they rudely outline, have formed the basis upon which the author has constructed this novel. The Forest of Bourg-Marie. By FRANCES HARRISON. One vol., crown 8vo., 6s. A romance of French Canada by Mrs. Frances Harrison, a Canadian author who has gained a reputation in Canada under the pseudonym of ' Seranus.' The Delusion of Diana. By MARGARET BURNESIDE. One vol., crown 8vo., 6s. A new novel by a new author of promise. Various Quills. 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Illustrated with a large number of original full-page and other Pen-and- ink Drawings by Mr. Herbert Marshall. With several Photo gravure Portraits and reproductions of objects of interest. One vol., crown 4to., One Guinea net. A Large-Paper Edition, limited to 1 50 copies, Three Guineas net. The volume contains articles by the following contributors : E. E. Bowen ; H. Montagu Butler, D.D., Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, and late Headmaster of Harrow School ; Edward M. Butler ; C. Colbeck ; Professor W. J. Courthope, C.B. ; the Earl of Crewe ; Rev. J. A. Cruikshank; Sir Henry S. Cunningham, K.C.S.I. ; Sir Charles Dalrymple, Bart., M.P. ; Rev. B. H. Drury; Spencer W. Gore; E. Graham ; W. O. Hewlett ; A. F. Hort ; E. W. Howson ; the Right Rev. Bishop Jenner ; B. P. Lascelles ; Hon. E. Chandos Leigh, Q.C. ; Right Hon. W. H. Long, M. P. ; Rev. Hastings Rashdall ; C. S. Roundell, Governor of Harrow School ; the Earl Spencer, K.G., D.C.L., Chairman of the Governors ; P. M. 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A few copies of the first edition, limited to 1,000 copies, are still to be had. GREAT PUBLIC SCHOOLS. Eton — Harrow — Winchester — Rugby — Westminster — Marlborough — Cheltenham — Haileybury — Clifton — Charterhouse. With nearly 100 Illustrations by the best artists. Popular Edition. One vol., large imperial l6mo., handsomely bound, 3s. 6d. ART-BOOKS. Old English Glasses. An Account of Glass Drinking-Vessels in England from Early Times to the end of the Eighteenth Century. With Introductory Notices of Continental Glasses during the same period, Original Documents, etc. Dedicated by special permission to Her Majesty the Queen. By ALBERT HARTSHORNE, Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries. Illustrated by nearly 70 full-page Tinted or Coloured Plates in the best style of Lithography, and several hundred outline Illustrations in the text. Super royal 4to., Three Guineas net. ' It would be difficult to overestimate the value of this book to the collector. It would be but scanty praise to say that this book is a noble quarto. It is that and much more. With its beautiful type, ample margins and luxurious paper, its hundreds of illustrations, many of them whole-page lithographs of exceptional merit, it is ar exceedingly fine example of typography, while its half-vellum binding is in admirable keeping with the care and taste which has been lavished upon the interior.' — Standard. ' An important contribution to the library of the serious antiquary and collector.' — Times. ' Mr. Hartshorne has been fortunate in finding a subject about which literally nothing was known, even by would-be connoisseurs, and he has risen to the height of his opportunity in a wonderful way. A fortpight ago the collector of old English Glasses was working in darkness . , . to-day such a collector has but to become the possessor of this sumptuous quarto and the whole sequence of glass-making, not only in England but on the Continent, from primitive times to the end of the last century, is before him. It is a monograph which must remain the one authority on English glasses.' — Daily Chronicle. ' No more sumptuous monograph on any artistic subject has been published this year than Mr. Hartshorne's volume.' — Westminster Gazette. Clouston. THE CHIPPENDALE PERIOD ;iN ENGLISH FURNI TURE. By K. Warren Clouston. With 200 Illustrations by the Author. Demy 4to., handsomely bound, One Guinea net. Freshfield. THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAUCASUS. By Douglas W. Freshfield, lately President of the Alpine Club and Honorary Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society. With Contributions by H. W. Holder, J. G. Cockin, H. Woolley, M. de Dechy, and Prof. Bonnev, D.Sc, F.R.S. 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' An extremely agreeable volume, in the production of which Mr. Tollemache's rare talents for the difficult art which he practises claim a creditably large and important shsLT^.'— Literature. /Reams have been written about Mr. Gladstone within the last few weeks, but no sketch of him can approach in vividness and veracity such records as Mr. ToUemache preserves to us of his casual conversations upon everything under the sun.' — Daily Chronicle. 'In these pages everybody, whatever his political opinions, will find much to interest him, for the *' talks " cover an enormous amount of ground, from the human conception of time and place to the merits and demerits of " Dizzy." ' — Globe. * Mr. ToUemache is one of the wisest as well as most charming writers left to us. His " Talks with Mr. Gladstone " is probably the best revelation of the inner mind of the great man that has yet been published.' — Liverpool Post. BY THE SAME AUTHOR. BENJAMIN JOWETT, MASTER OF BALLIOL. A Personal Memoir. Third Edition, with portrait. Crown 8vo., cloth, 3s. 6d, Many Memories of Many People. By Mrs. M. C. SIMPSON {nie Nassau-Senior). Fourth Edition. One vol., demy 8vo.j i6s. * A perfectly delightful book of gossip about men and women of historical importance. ' — Truth. ' Mrs. Simpson has something interesting to say about nearly every woman of note in the middle portion ofthe century. The whole book is good x^^^\^%'— Athenepum. ' This is a delightful book. A long succession of familiar names flit across Mrs. Simpson's pages, and she has something interesting or amusing to tell us about all of them.' — Guardian. ' There is not a dull page in it from first to last, and the present generation will have no excuse for ignorance of all that was best and most brilliant in the society of the middle of this century as long as a copy of " Many Memories" remains accessible.' — Manchester Guardian. Letters of Mary Sibylla Holland. Selected and Edited by her Son, BERNARD HOLLAND. Second Edition. 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Also the Pupil Teachers' Edition in three parts. Division I., to 1307. 2s. Division II., 1307-1688. 2s. Division IIL, 1688-1885. 2s. 6d. Pilkington. IN AN ETON PLAYING FIELD. The Adventures of some old Public School Boys in East London. By E. M. S. Pilkington. Fcap. 8vo., handsomely bound, 2s. 6d. Eansome. THE BATTLES OF FREDERICK THE GREAT. Extracted from Carlyle's ' History of Frederick the Great,' and edited by Cyril Ransome, M.A., Professor of History at the Yorkshire College, Leeds. With numerous Illustrations by Adolph Menzel. Square 8vo., 3s. 6d. Reynolds. STUDIES ON MANY SUBJECTS. By the Rev. S^. H. Reynolds. One vol., demy 8vo., los. 6d. Rochefort. THE ADVENTURES OF MY LIFE. By HENRI Roche fort. Second Edition. Two vols., large crown 8vo., 253. Roebuck. THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY AND LETTERS of the Right Hon. JOHN ARTHUR ROEBUCK, Q.C, M.P. Edited by Robert Eadon Leader. With two Portraits. Demy 8vo., i6s. Santley. STUDENT AND SINGER. The Reminiscences of Charles Santley. New Edition. 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With a Photogravure Portrait of the Author by D. Maclise, R.A., and with Coloured Photogravure and other Plates from the original Illustrations by Alken, and several reproductions of old Portraits. Large Svo., handsomely bound, 15s. Also a Large-Paper Edition, limited to 200 copies. Two Guineas net. THE SPORTSMAN'S LIBRARY. Edited by the Right Hon. Sir Herbert Maxwell, Bart., M.P. A Re-issue, in handsome volumes, of certain rare and entertaining books on Sport, carefully selected by the Editor, and Illustrated by the best Sporting Artists of the day, and with Reproductions of old Plates. Library Edition, 15s. a Volume. Large-Paper Edition, limited to 200 copies, Two Guineas a volume. Volume I. Smith. THE LIFE OF A FOX, AND THE DIARY OF A HUNTS MAN. By Thomas Smith, Master of the Hambledon and Pytchley Hounds. With Illustrations by the Author, and Coloured Plates by G. H. Jalland. Sir Ralph Payne-Galwey, Bart., writes : ' It is excellent and beautifully produced.' ' Is sure to appeal to everyone who lias had, or is about to have, a chance of a run with the hounds, and those to whom an unkindly fate denies this boon will enjoy it for the joyous music of the hounds which it brings to relieve the winter of our discontent amid London fogs.' — Pall Mall Gazette. ' It will be a classic of fox-hunting till the end of time.' — Yorkshire Post. ' No hunting men should he without this book in their libraries.' — World. Volume II. Thornton. A SPORTING TOUR THROUGH THE NORTHERN PARTS OF ENGLAND AND GREAT PART OF THE HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND. By Colonel T. Thornton, of Thornville Royal, in Yorkshire. With the Original Illustrations by Garrard, and other Illustrations and Coloured Plates by G. E. Lodge. ' Sportsmen of all descriptions will gladly welcome the sumptuous new edition issued by Mr. Edward Arnold of Colonel T. Thornton's " Sporting Tour," which bas long been a scarce book. — Daily News. ' It is excellent reading for all interested in sport.' — Black and White. ' A handsome volume, effectively illustrated with coloured plates by G. E. Lodge, and with portraits and selections from the original illustrations, themselves characteristic of the art and sport of the time.' — Tijnes. Volume III. Cosmopolite. THE SPORTSMAN IN IRELAND. By a COSMOPOLITE. With Coloured Plates and Black and White Drawings by P. Chenevix Trench, and reproductions of the original Illustrations drawn by R. Allen, and engraved by W. Westall, A.R.A. ' This is a most readable and entertaining book.' — Pall Mall Gazette. * As to the "get up " of the book we can only repeat what we said on the appearance of the first of the set, that the serie.*. consists ot the most tastelul and charming volumes at present being issued by the English Press, and collectors of handsome books should find them not only an ornament to their shelves, but also a sound investment." 17 Volume IV. Berkeley. REMINISCENCES OF A HUNTSMAN. By the Hon. Grantley F. Berkeley. With a Coloured Frontispiece and the original Illustrations by John Leech, and several Coloured Plates and other Illustrations by G. H. Jalland. 'The latest addition to the sumptuous "Sportsman's Library" is here reproduced with all Possible aid from the printer and binder, with illustrations from the pencils ot Leech and G. H. alland.' — Glode. * The Hon. Grantley F. Berkeley had one great quality of the raconteur. His self-revelations and displays of vanity are delightful,* — Times. Volume V. Scrope. THE ART OF DEERSTALKING. By WILLIAM SCROPE. With Frontispiece by Edwin Landseer, and nine Photogravure Plates of the original Illustrations. ' With the fine illustrations by the Landseers and Scrope himself, this forms a most worthy number of a splendid series.' — Pall Mall Gazette. 'Among the works published in connection with field sports in Scotland, none probably have been more sought after than those of William Scrope, and although pubUshed more than fifty years ago, they are still as fresh as ever, full of pleasant anecdote, and valuable for the many practicad hints which they convey to inexperienced sportsmen.' — Field. Volume VI. Nimrod. THE CHASE, THE TURF, AND THE ROAD. By Nimrod. (.S^^ above.) ' Sir Herbert Maxwell has performed a real service for all who care for sport in republishing Nimrod's admirable papers. The book is admirably printed and produced both in the matter ofillustrations and of binding.' — St. yames's Gazette. 'A thoroughly well got-up book.' — World. Volume VIL Scrope. DAYS AND NIGHTS OF SALMON FISHING. By William Scrope. {See 'page 4.) A Mingled Yarn. The Autobiography of Edward Spencer Mott (Nathaniel Gubbins). 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By WALTER RALEIGH, Professor of English Literature at University College, Liverpool, Author of ' Robert Louis Stevenson,' etc. Third Edition. One vol., crown 8vo., ss. * Professor Raleigh has produced a finished masterpiece, where the men before him, masters as they were, gave us brilliant sketches or clever studies. His ingenuity of thought, restraint of expression, austerity of judgment, his prudent counsel and wise suggestion are worthy of all praise. A model treatise on a most difficult and important theme.' — Pall Mall Gazette. ' In our judgment Mr. Raleigh's volume on " Style " is an amazingly good and pre-eminently interesting and suggestive book. His whole treatment of his subject is vigorous, manly, and most sensible.' — Speaker. ' As brimful of discerning criticism and fruitful suggestion as it is throughout lively and inspiriting. ' — St. James's Gazette. * Mr. Raleigh's volume is the fruit of much reading and more thinking. 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Author of ' The Ethic of Free Thought,' etc. In two vols., demy Svo., with Illustrations, 2Ss. net. Contents of Vol. I. — The Chances of Death — The Scientific Aspect of Monte Carlo Roulette — Reproductive Selection — Socialism and Natural Selection — Politics and Science — Reaction — Woman and Labour — Variation in Man aud Woman. Contents of Vol. II. — Woman as Witch — Ashiepattle ; or, Hans seeks his Luck — Kindred Group Marriage — The German Passion Play — Index. ' We have pleasure in welcoming a new work of extreme scientiflc value and of deep popular interest.' — Saturday Review. 'All of these Essays are well worth reading.'^ Tz'wrgj. 'These brilliant volumes contain the most s.itisfactory work that Professor Pearson has yet done.' — Speaker. Burgess. POLITICAL SCIENCE AND COMPAR.A.TIVE CONSTI TUTIONAL LAW. By John W. Burgess, Ph.D., LL.D., Dean of the Uni versity Faculty of Political Science in Columbia College, U.S.A. In two vols., demy Svo., cloth, 2Ss. Fawcett. 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BIBLIOGRAPHY OF EDUCATION. By W. S. MUNROU. 8s. 6d. THE STUDY OF THE CHILD. By A. R. Taylor. 6s. The following Catalogues of Mr. Edward Arnold's Publications will be sent post free on application : CATALOGUE OF WORKS OF GENERAL LITERA TURE. GENERAL CATALOGUE OF EDUCATIONAL WORKS, including the principal publications of Messrs. Ginn and Company, Educational Publishers, of Boston and New York. CATALOGUE OF WORKS FOR USE IN ELE MENTARY SCHOOLS. ILLUSTRATED LIST OF BOOKS FOR PRESENTS AND PRIZES. 3° 3n&ej to Hutbors. PAGE Adams.— -The Palace on the Moor . . 27 Adderley.— Stephen Remarx . . 25 ,, Paul Mercer . . .25 Aldrich. — Arctic Alaska . . .15 Alexander. — Campaign of the 93rd Highlanders in the Indian Mutiny . 2 American Game Fishes . . .15 Bacon. — City of Blood . . . .14 Balfour. — Twelve Hundred Miles in a Waggon 14 Bell, Mrs. — Kleines Haustheater . . iS Bell (Rev. Canon). — The Gospel the Power of God . . .20 ,, Sermons . . . 20 ,, Diana's Looking Glass . . 20 „ Poems Old and New . . 20 Benson. — Men of Might . . . .13 Berkeley.— Reminiscences of a Hunts man 17 Beynon. — With Kelly to Chitral . . 14 Blatchford. —Tommy Atkins . . 25 Bottome. — A Sunshine Trip . . .14 Boulger. — Wood 23 Boyle. — Recollections of the Dean of Salisbury 13 Bradley. — GiUard's Reminiscences . 4 Brown. — Works on Poultry Keeping . 21 Bull. — The Cruise of the ' Antarctic ' .14 Burbidge. — Wild Flowers in Art . . 10 Burgess. — Political Science . . .22 Burneside. — The Delusion of Diana . 6 Burton. — Tropics and Snows . . 3 Butler. — Select Essays of Sainte Beuve 18 Cawston. — The Early Chartered Com panies 13 Chapman.— Wild Norway . . .14 Charleton. — Netherdyke . . .25 Cherbuliez. — The Tutor's Secret . . 25 Children's Favourite Series . . 27 Children's Hour Series . . .27 Cholmondeley. — A Devotee . . 25 Clifford. — Love-Letters . . .25 Clough. — Memoir of Anne J. Clough . 12 Clouston. — Early English Furniture . 10 Clowes. — Double Emperor . . .27 Coleridge. — King with Two Faces 24 Collingwood.— Thorstein . . .18 ,, The Bondwoman . , 25 Collins. — A Treasury of Minor British Poetry 20 Colvile. — Land of the Nile Springs . i + Cook. — Sidney's Defense of Poesy . 18 ,, Shelley's Defence of Poetry . 18 Cosmopolite. — Sportsman in Ireland . 16 Crane. — George's Mother . . .25 PAGE Cunningham. — Draughts Manual . . 21 Custance.— Riding Recollections '. .17 Davidson. — Handbook to Dante • . 18 De Vere. — Recollections . . .13 Dunmore. — Ormisdal . . . .25 Edwards.— Mermaid of Inish-Uig. .24 Ellacombe. — In a Gloucestershire Garden 21 Ellacombe. — The Plant Lore of Shake speare r8 Elliot. — Amateur Clubs and Acting . i Falkner. — Moonfieet ... ,6 Fawcett. — Hartmann the Anarchist . 27 ,, Riddle of the Universe . 22 , , Secret of the Desert . . 27 , , Swallowed by an Earthquake 27 Field. — Master Magnus. . . .27 Fleming. — Art of Reading and Speaking 18 Ford. — On the Threshold . . .25 Forster. — Army Letters . . .23 Fowler. — Echoes of Old County Life . 13 Freshfield. — Exploration of the Cau casus 10 Gardner. — Friends of Olden Time . 19 Rome : Middle of World . 19 Garnett. — Selections in English Prose . 18 Gaunt. — Dave's Sweetheart . . .25 Gillard. — Hunting Reminiscences . 4 Gleichen.— With the British Mission to Menelik 14 Gordon. — Persia Revisited . . .14 Goschen.— Cultivation and Use of the Imagination 18 Gossip. — Chess Pocket Manual . . 21 Great Public Schools . . .9 Gummere.— Old English Ballads . . 20 Hadjira 25 Hall.— Fish Tails 17 Halliday. — Steam Boilers . . .23 Hans Andersen.— Snow Queen . . 27 ,, Tales from . . 27 Hare. — Life and Letters of Maria Edge- worth 13 Harrison. — Early Victorian Literature . 18 ,, Forest of Bourg-Marie . 6 Harrow School 9 Hartshorne.— Old English Glasses . 10 Herbertson. — Illustrated Geography . 7 Herschell. — Parisian Beggars . .19 Hervey. — Eric the Archer . . .26 Reef of Gold . . . .26 Higgins. — New Guide to the Pacific Coast Ig Hole. — Addresses to Working Men . 8 ,, Book about Roses . . .8 31 Jll&ej to "EiWtbOtS— continued. Hole. — Book about the Garden . . 8 Little Tour in America . . 8 Little Tour in Ireland . . 8 Memories ... .8 More Memories .... 8 Faith which Worketh by Love . 8 Holland. — Letters of . . . ir ,, Verses .... J ,, Old Age Pensions . , 23 Holt. — Fancy Dresses Described . . 21 „ Gentlemen's Fancy Dress . . 6 Hopkinson.— Toby's Promise . . 27 Hopkins. — Religions of India . . .22 Hudson. — Life, Art, and Characters of Shakespeare . . .20 , , Harvard Shakespeare . . 20 Hunt — What is Poetry ? . . . .20 Hutchinson. — That Fiddler Fellow . 25 International Education Series . 28 Johnston.— Joel ; a Boy of Galilee . 27 Kenney-Herbert. — Fifty Breakfasts . 21 ,, ,, Fifty Dinners . 21 „ ,, Fifty Lunches . 21 ,, ,, Common-sense Cookery . .21 Knight-Bruce. — Memories of Mashona land 14 Knox. — Hunters Three . . . .27 Knutsford. — Mystery of the Rue Soly . 25 Kuhns. — The Treatment of Nature in Dante 19 Lane. — Church and Realm . . 13 Lang. — Lamb's Adventures of Ulysses . 19 Leader. — Autobiography of Roebuck . 12 Lecky. — Political Value of History . . 13 Le Fanu. — Seventy Years of Irish Life . 13 Leffingwell. — Art of Wing-Shooting . 15 Legh. — How Dick and Molly went round the World 26 Legh. — How Dick and Molly saw Eng land 26 Legh. — My Dog Plato . . . .27 Lehfeldt. — Lectures on Theoretical and Physical Chemistry . . . . 7 Lighthall. — False Chevalier . 6 Local Series 27 Lockwood. — Sketch Book . . .5 Lotze.— Philosophical Outlines . . 22 Macdonald. — Memoirs of Sir John Macdonald 13 Macdonald. — Soldiering and Surveying in British East Africa . ... 14 Mathews. — Dr. Gilbert's Daughters . 26 Maud. — Wagner's Heroes . . .19 , , Wagner's Heroines . . . rg Maxwell. — The Sportsman's Library . 16 Memories of the Months . 17 McNab.— On Veldt and Farm McNulty. — MistherO'Ryan . ,, Son of a Peasant Meysey Thompson. — The Course, the Camp, and the Chase . Milner. — England in Egypt , , Arnold Toynbee Modern Traveller . Montr^sor.— Worth While More Beasts for Worse Children Morgan. — Animal Life . ,, Animal Sketches Habit and Instinct ,, Psychology for Teachers , , Springs of Conduct Morphology, Journal of . Mott. — A Mingled Yarn Munroe. — Fur Seal's Tooth . Rick Dale . ,, Snow-shoes and Sledges Nash. — Barerock . National Review Nimrod.— Chase, Turf, and Road Oman.— History of England . Oxenden. — Interludes . Oxenden. — A Reputation for a Song Paget. — Wasted Records of Disease Pearson. — The Chances of Death . Perry. — Calculus for Engineers PiGOU. — Phases of My Life . Pike.— Through the Sub-Arctic Forest Pilkington. — An Eton Playing-Field Pinsent— Job Hildred . Pollok. — Fifty Years' Reminiscences of India Pope. — Memoirs of Sir John Macdonald Portal. — British Mission 10 Uganda , , My Mission to Abyssinia Practical Science Manuals . Prescott. — A Mask and a Martyr . Quiller Couch. — Q's Tales from Shake speare Raleigh. — Robert Louis Stevenson Style PAGE 14 Ransome. — Battles of Frederick the Great r2 Raymond. — Mushroom Cave Reed. — Tails with a Twist Rendel. — Newcastle-on-Tyne Reynolds. — Studies on Many Subjects Ricketts. — Composite Book Plates Rochefort. — The Adventures of My Life Rodd. — Ballads of the Fleet . Rodd. — Works by Rennell Rodd Roebuck. — Autobiography Santley. — Student and Singer Schelling. — Elizabethan Lyrics ,, Ben Jonson's 'Timber 2626 4 19rg 5 26 S 7 27 777 22 17 262626 26 29 1712 26 24 IS 12 26 1513ISIS 2326 3 1818 27 S 3 1220 20 19 32 JnDej to TiUtbOte— continued. 19 Scrope.— Art of Deer-Stalking . . 17 ., Days and Nights of Salmon- Fishing 4 Shaw. — A Text Book of Nursing . . 22 Sherard. — Alphonse Daudet . . .12 Shields. — Camping and Camp Outfits . 15 Shields — American Book of the Dog . 15 Shorland. — Cycling for Health and Pleasure 21 Sichel. — The Story of Two Salons . Simpson. — Many Memories of Many People II Slatin. — Fire and Sword in the Sudan . 15 Smith.— The Life ofa Fox . . .16 ,, Through Unknown African Countries 15 Smith. — Management of a Landed Estate I Solly. — Life of Henry Morley . . 2 Spinner.— A Reluctant Evangelist . . 26 Stone. — In and Beyond the Himalayas . 15 PAGE • 13 , 20 • IS . 16 Tatham. — Men of Might Thayer. — Best Elizabethan Plays . Thomas. — Sweden and the Swedes . Thornton.— A Sporting Tour TOLLEMACHE. — Benjamin Jowett . . 11 , , Talks with Mr. Gladstone r i Twining. — Recollections of Life and Work 13 Various Quills 6 White. — Pleasurable Bee-Keeping . . 21 Wild Flowers in Art and Nature 10 Williams. — The Bayonet that came Home 26 Wilson. ^ — Electrical Traction . . .23 Warkworth. — Pages from A Diary in Asiatic Turkey .... 3 Winchester College .... 9 Young. — General Astronomy . . .22 Classified Jnbej. New and Forthcoming Works PAGE 1—9 Art-Books, etc. ....... 10 Biography and History ...... II— 13 Travel and Adventure . ... 14— IS Sport ..... General Literature ... IS— 17 18—19 Poetry ......... 20 Country House 21 Science and Philosophy 22 23 Fiction ..... Books for the Young 24 26 26 27 International Education Series . 28 Catalogues, etc. 29 30—32 Index to Authors 03097 7640 WKMil IjM'Mi: I I t!IM I ¦ ¦ •!• 1 ' MUU'.'I il I'iltilt - ami. MiiiiiH«""""""""""";,',i.ii""