D

M

TRAVELLING IN JAPAN,

AROUND THE WORLD
IN SEVEN MONTHS

BY
CHARLES J. GILLIS

(ptinfO) for
(JJrtOafe "BiBftifiufion

COPYRIGHT, 1 891
BY
CHARLES J. GILLIS

Press of J. J. Little & Ca
Astor Place, New York

of i^ (^uf^oit

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

PAGE

I. — From New York to Yokohama

I

II. — Yokohama

.

9

III.— Tokio

15

IV.— Nikko

20

V. — Miynoskita

23
Vl.—KoBt .
.
28
VII.— Osaka
.
32
VIII.— Hong-Kong
.
34
IX.— Canton
40
X. — Hong-Kong
47
XI.^SlNGAPORE .
.
52
XII. — On Board the '
' Kaisar-i-Hand "
58
XIII.— Colombo. .
.
62
XIV.— Newava Eliya
67
XV.— On Board the '
Rohilla "
71
XVI.— Calcutta .
77
XVII. — Darjeeling
.
82
XVIII.— Benares. .
86
XIX. — Lucknow .
.
91
XX.— Cawnpore .
94
XXI.— Agra .
.
96
XXII.— Delhi .
• . .
100
VI

Contents.

CHAPTER XXIII.— Jeypore . . . .
XXIV.— Bombay
XXV. — On Board the " Khedive
XXVI. — Through the Suez Canal
XXVII. — Cairo and the Pyramids
XXVIII.— Jaffa .
XXIX.— Ramleh
XXX. — Jerusalem .
XXXI.— Jaffa .
XXXII.— On Board the '
XXXIII. — Constantinople
XXXIV.— Conclusion
Distances Travelled .

Poccir "

PAGE io6112
ii6120
124133
137141
143148
159

AROUND THE WORLD IN SEVEN
MONTHS. CHAPTER I.
FROM NEW YORK TO YOKOHAMA.

J'T 9.50 on the morning of
the Sth of September,
1889, I boarded the vesti
bule train of the New
York Central Railroad, at
Forty-second Street, New
York; and having travelled on the princi
pal railroads around the world, I can truly
say that no train which has ever carried me,
has approached this one in luxurious ease,
comfort, and safety. The train rolled into
the Chicago depot at 9.50 the next morn
ing — exactly twenty-four hours. I was de
tained in Chicago for two days, and then
left by the Rock Island route for San Fran
cisco. At Ogden we were detained two days by

2 Around the World.
the burning of a bridge built over a ravine —
one hundred feet long and about the same
height. The fire destroyed the massive
snow-sheds and great trees for a long dis
tance. The fire took place Friday. Tel
egrams were sent to Sacramento, and the
next day word came that twenty-one car
loads of material had been sent with
mechanics to erect a new bridge.
The new bridge was erected in four days.
Our train was the first to pass over it,
and I remarked how substantially the new
erection had been constructed. We reached
the summit at noon, and the Palace Hotel,
San Francisco, at midnight.
On the 2 1st of September we went aboard
the steamer Rio-de-Janeiro, built for the
southern trade — 370 feet long, 38 feet wide,
3,500 tons ; six tubular boilers, each 13 feet
diameter, 10^ feet long. I remarked what
heavy consumers of coal such shaped boil
ers must be, and the engineer said there
was no room to put in any other kind.
I found myself the sole occupant of a
large and well-ventilated state-room. At 3
P.M., Captain Ward, standing on the bridge,
gave the signal, and the voice of an officer
sang out, " All ashore that's going." Sev-

Steamer " Rio-de-jfaneiro." 3
eral hundred Chinese men and a dozen
women, in showy dresses, crowded the
wharf. The friends of the missionaries on
the wharf sang a parting hymn. The big
propeller started. A tug pulled the ship's
bow around, and away we went on our
voyage of 4,700 miles across the Pacific.
We passed the Golden Gate and the Seal
Islands — covered with huge seals — and then
on toward our destination.
I soon made the acquaintance of most of
the passengers, forty-five in number — in
cluding fourteen missionaries of the Pres
byterian Board, nice young people, going
out to their duties in China and Japan.
I took my seat at the dining-table, and
found that I had at my right an agreeable
companion, a captain in the German army,
and at the left a charming miss of ten, Bes
sie, daughter of J. de Romero, secretary of
the Spanish Legation to China.
The first week out was a rough one. The
weather was bad, and the ship rolled fear
fully, so that we could not walk on deck.
The waves were immense, and consequently
nearly every one was sick. I felt a little
nausea for a couple of days, but soon did
duty regularly at the fine feast placed before

4 Around the World.
us three times a day, the specialty being
splendid California fruits — peaches, plums,
grapes, and oranges, any of which would
bring a prize in an agricultural show.
Day after day the tireless engine drove
the propeller. The splendid ship rushed on
and on, not a moment's stop the entire dis
tance. Not a sail or a steamer seen from
port to port, and not even a whale. Once
some porpoises and flying-fish, and once,
when a thousand miles from land, a land-
hawk lighted on the cross-trees, and pro
ceeded leisurely to feast on a captured bird,
and during the night flew away.
The never-ending water was very impres
sive in its desolation. Better weather came,
the ship was steady, and we could walk on
deck. My little friend and I romped along
the deck from end to end in safety, but
once a rude wave threw us down, and dashed
us against the sides of the vessel, taking off
some inches of skin from me, but the child
was unhurt, and I did not mind a little
thing like that.
I had early made the acquaintance of
Mr. Mathews, the chief engineer, and once
went into the hold and inspected the boilers
and machinery of the huge ship. I spent a

Steamer " Rio-de-Janeiro." 5
good deal of time in the chief engineer's
room, listening to strange tales of ship and
shore. On the 9th inst., as we were approaching
our destination, I was shown an engrossed
resolution complimenting the captain, beau
tifully illustrated with a pen-and-ink sketch
of the ship by Seflor Romero. After dinner
one of the passengers was selected to make
the presentation address. He said :
" Ladies and gentlemen, fellow-passengers
by the good ship Rio-de-Janeiro : I act with
pleasure 3S chairman on this auspicious occa
sion, and congratulate you on the near ter
mination of our long trip across the great
Pacific Ocean, rendered safe by the skill of
the navigators and pleasant by the efforts of
the officers, one and all. I have been many
times across many seas, sometimes in mag
nificent floating palaces, but never on one
so neat and clean, and where every detail
has been so carefully attended to.
' ' ' O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea.
Our thoughts as boundless and our souls as free.
Far as the breeze can bear, the billows foam,
Survey our empire and behold our home.'
" Our only home indeed for a brief period

6 Around the World.
of time. But who can fail to remember the
pleasant acquaintances made, even if we go
around the world ? For ' they that go down
to the sea in ships ; that do business in great
waters ; these see the works of the Lord, and
his wonders in the deep.' Even if we look
upon the lofty Himalayas, the Alps, the
Apennines, and the Juras, and linger about
gigantic Mont Blanc and her white-robed
sisters, or the beautiful Jungfrau, or sail
along the classic shores of the blue Mediter
ranean — wherever we go and whatever we
see, the scenes on this good ship, will be
photographed, as it were, on our memories
as long as we live — the romps on the deck,
perchance with a charming miss ; or the
tramp, tramp with military regularity with
those of mature age ; the hours of looking
upon the moonlit sea, listening to the song
and music of our missionary friends. God
bless them and their cause !
" The temporary annoyance of sea-sick
ness will be forgotten. And now, fellow-
passengers and friends, let us resolve that,
like the passion-flower of the wilderness,
which always bears within its bosom the
true cross, we will bear within our bosom the
true cross of ' enmity toward none, charity

Steamer " Rio-de-yaneiro." 7
and good-will for all,' and thus we shall be
an honor to ourselves, the dear ones at
home, the country we came from, and our
God. " Captain Ward, by direction of the pas
sengers on this ship, permit me to present
to you an engrossed resolution, signed by
all of us, and beautifully illustrated by Sefior
Romero, and expressing the hope — which
has been so often said before on like occa
sions — that your voyage through life may
be as safe and pleasant as you have made
ours. I bid you farewell."
The captain made a suitable reply, and
the company all stood up and drank his
health. One more night on the ship ; and the next
morning we sighted land and passed along
near it for forty miles. It was a rough coun
try, evidently of volcanic formation, and
not so thickly populated as I expected to
see, considering that there are thirty-eight
million people in Japan. At last we cast
anchor in the splendid harbor of Yokohama,
one of the most comm^odious and beautiful
in the world, where a tug took us off the
ship. We were detained an hour or two at
the custom-house, and then each took a

8

Around the World.

jinrickisha, a low, two-wheeled chaise with
a man between the shafts, who trotted up
to the "Grand," the most perfect of hotels.
We went directly to our rooms, which had
been previously engaged.

CHAPTER II.
YOKOHAMA.
Yokohama, Oct. 12, 1889.
HE Grand Hotel, where I
am located, is very large
and first-class in all re
spects. It is two hundred.
jl feet long, fronting the
matchless bay, with an ex
tension along a canal of two hundred feet.
From the room I occupy, I look down
upon the canal and a fine bridge which
spans it. Across this bridge goes a constant
procession of men, women, and children,
some horses and carriages, and occasionally
a single ox drawing a cart. But everything
looks so different, and is managed so differ
ently from what one has been accustomed
to, that I am more and more impressed with
the idea that I am no longer in this world,
but in some wonderland beyond the stars.
The view of the bay from the front of the
hotel is said to be, by some, the finest in the
world. The harbor is very large, and could
float all the navies of all nations. At anchor,

ID Around the World.
in different directions, are iron-clad war
ships, English, French, German, Italian,
Russian, and Japanese — only one showing
the stars and stripes, an old side-wheel
boat, about as large as a Brooklyn ferry
boat, and of course about as useless.
One of the naval vessels flying the British
flag is an immense iron-clad of six thousand
tons. With the commander. Captain May,
I became acquainted. He has on board an
Armstrong gun of one hundred and twenty
tons, the largest I think ever made, which
will throw a bolt of half a ton a dozen
miles, and penetrate through a wrought-
iron plate twelve inches thick.
The captain expressed himself as having
serious doubt- of the efficiency of such
monster ships and guns in actual warfare, as
smaller, swifter crafts could run around them,
and have great advantages in that respect.
Most of the coal used in this part of the
world comes from England, and is conse
quently very high-priced.
The harbor is crowded with many large
passenger steamers, and a great fleet of
fishing craft. Toward evening the latter
presented a beautiful appearance, coming in.
I took a short walk beyond the canal and

Yokohama. 1 1
over steep hills. There are few horses or
oxen to be seen. Most of the transporta
tion is done by men. A two-wheeled cart,
loaded with perhaps five hundred bricks,
was being pushed up a steep hill by eight
men, who rested often and were much fa
tigued by their exertions.
Last evening our party started for a
moonlight excursion along the smooth and
finely macadam-paved streets of the city.
Under the guidance of one of our number,
jinrickishas — the national cab for transport
ing light packages and passengers — were
called. The translation of this word is pull-
man-car, and thus we have the extraordinary
coincidence of the same name for a crude
vehicle, drawn by a man, and for the splen
did Pullman palace cars of America, which,
with the Wagner, so far surpass in elegance
and comfort all others.
Away we went at a tremendous pace,
each having a Chinese lantern, my carriage
leading. We passed through well-lighted
streets, lined with stores filled with showy
goods, into the suburbs, a mile or two away,
and stopped at a tea-house, where we were
received with much bowing and ceremony
by the women in charge, who spoke a httle

12 Around the World.
Ehglish. We were shown up a narrow
stairway into a small hall, and a bargain was
made for a national performance by two
musicians and ten dancing girls, who pres
ently appeared, draped in beautiful Japa
nese costumes. These dancing girls were
all very pretty, with their almond eyes and
dark skins, and apparently not more than
twelve or fifteen years old. They were the
most jolly and laughing young women one
ever saw. They shook hands with all the
company, and then danced very nicely, to
very poor music, in their swaying robes.
At a signal, these robes were thrown aside,
and the girls appeared in long loose dresses
made of white and red material, much like
the stripes on the American flag. The
dancing, which was very graceful, continued
for some time ; but the show became some
what monotonous. The ladies did not care
to see anything more, and we came away.
Again we took to the road, making a very
unique procession by moonlight — passing
over many bridges and boulevards, and by
rows upon rows of brilliantly illuminated
tea-houses — and returned to the hotel.
The natives do not wear European cloth
ing as much as I expected. The upper part

Yokohama. 1 3
of their persons is covered with a loose
sack, often open in front, and the jolly and
laughing children of ten years and under
are generally entirely nude.
This morning all hands took another trip
through the markets. We examined cane
factories, and stores filled with silks and
beautiful goods of native manufacture.
Again we looked upon the street scenes
and their never-ending wonders.
From my bedroom window I see a large
factory for the making of ice, which is sold
at a penny a pound, and is the greatest of
comforts in this country. Butter and cigars
are so strong and bad that I have left off
the use of them, and do not expect to try
them again until I get to Austria ; but soda-
water of excellent quality is to be had
everywhere, and is a great comfort. '
We spent the evening listening to the
splendid Japanese Marine Band, which
played lovely music for two hours in front
of the hotel; all the musicians were natives.
It was gayly bright at the hotel, the entire
front being illuminated by paper lanterns
of various colors ; the big ships in the bay
shown by their own numerous lamps, and
the light of the full moon glittering upon

14 Around the World.
the moving waters. I have seen no such
beautiful show since 1887, when, at the city
of Florence, I witnessed great festivities at
tendant upon the unveiling of a statue of
an Italian patriot ; the great dome of the
cathedral, the bridges, and the boats on the
river Arno, the palaces on the hills, and the
whole beautiful city being illuminated in
the most splendid manner — but this is a di
gression and I must write now about Japan.
I have to-day wandered about the city
alone, and have seen more of the well-to-do
natives. These are better dressed — always
the flowing dressing-gown pattern, and
stilted and inconvenient slipper-like shoes.
Everywhere the babies are carried in bags,
on the backs of their mothers, or more often
by the older children. There are great num
bers of babies to be seen all over the city,
carried about in this way, and they always
appearvery happy, well fed, and comfortable.
This morning at two o'clock I was awak
ened by an earthquake which rolled my bed
about the room. It lasted twenty seconds
or so, but I did not think it worth while to
get up, and soon went off to sleep again. I
am told such entertainments are frequent in
this country, and one must get used to them.

CHAPTER III.
TOKIO.

Tokio, Oct. 15, i88g.
FTER being entertained at
Yokohama, on the morn
ing of the 14th inst.,
with a slight earthquake,
we left for this, the capi
tal city of the empire, on
a finely built and equipped narrow-gauge
(3 ft. 6 in.) railroad. Every square yard of
the country we traversed was in the high
est state of cultivation. Distance eighteen
miles, time one hour.
I noticed that the locomotives, cars, and
all the equipments about the railroad were
of English manufacture, from Manchester
and Birmingham. I was informed that
most of the twelve hundred miles of rail
roads in Japan were owned and run by the
Government. The chief in charge is a
native educated in England, who scouted

1 6 Around the World.
the idea that any other country could pro
duce anything fit to be used on railroads.
We had previously engaged rooms at one
of the two hotels in the city where for
eigners are entertained, and after an excel
lent dinner, took jinrickishas, of which there
are 80,000 in this city, and had a long run
through the interminable streets. The city
has a population of 1,600,000, and covers a
space of thirty-six square miles, the streets
being very narrow and the houses mostly
of wood, one and two stories high — the
stores all small.
After passing through narrow streets for
some miles, we came to others, wider and
lighted brilliantly by gas and electricity,
through which carriages were not allowed
to pass. The houses, for miles, were occu
pied as tea-houses, and were brilliantly
illuminated, like the gin palaces of London,
or the whiskey saloons of America. Great
vans were passing along, on which dancing
and theatrical performances were going on.
There were also a good many theatres in
active operation.
One of the evenings that we were in the
city, these streets were occupied by an im
mense annual flower show, one of the feat-

Tokio. 1 7
ures of which was a big elephant con
structed of chrysanthemum flowers of many
colors. The effect was very gorgeous.
The next day we spent going about the
great city and seing its wonders, chief of
which is the Mikado's palace and grounds.
I called on the American minister, and
asked him to get me a permit to go into
the palace, but he said it was impossible,
no foreigners being allowed in the palace
or the grounds. The palace and gardens
looked like immense fortifications, being
surrounded by three moats, each a hundred
feet wide, and filled with water, and by
three stone walls, each thirty or forty feet
high. The palace is in the heart of the city, and
I should say the grounds were two hundred
acres in extent, all, including the neighbor
ing streets, being lighted by the Edison
Company of New York. I saw the super
intendent who had charge of the construc
tion of the plant, who said it took them a
year to do it.
The women to be seen in the streets and
tea-houses are invariably small and very
pretty, except some of the married ones,
who have their teeth colored black in ac-

1 8 Around the World.
cordance with an ancient custom, which
makes them look hideous.
It is very cool in this part of Japan at
this season. There is not sufficient frost to
affect the crops, but one gets cold riding
about — and there is no efficient method of
heating the houses. There is no coal used
for domestic purposes, and wood is very
scarce and high. If you ask for a fire, at
most hotels, they bring you a copper pan
containing ignited charcoal covered with
ashes, which does about as much good as a
kerosene lamp. I suffer greatly with the
cold, and would be glad to pay a large price
for a pair of Arctic overshoes.
The price of newspapers, printed in the
English language, at Yokohama, is twenty-
five cents a copy, or thirty dollars per an
num. They have very little news, and
almost none from America.
We went through the museum, and saw
many extraordinary curiosities of ancient
and modern Japan. Among them was a
stuffed rooster in a glass case, whose tail
feathers were ten feet long. I thought
there was some humbug about it, but I
afterward saw a live one with tail feathers
twelve feet long.

Tokio. 19
The public buildings are modern, large,
and handsome, and the people very polite
and good-natured. The streets are narrow.
Great crowds are everywhere. It seems to
me that I must have seen a hundred thou
sand people to-day. Everything about the
city is strange, often disagreeable and of
fensive. A couple of days in it is quite
sufficient, and I shall be very glad to go
away to-morrow.

CHAPTER IV.
NIKKO.
Nikko, Japan, Oct._2o, 1889.
E left Tokio on the 17th
at 6.46 A.M., for a station
called Utsumorama,
ninety-three miles. Ar
rived at noon, and, after
an excellent lunch, start
ed in jinrickishas for this place, and a most
extraordinary and unique trip it proved to
be. The road was built hundreds of years ago
by a Shinto king, and is an admirable ex
ample of engineering ; well drained, and
with an excellent foundation of small stones,
which needed only a top-dressing and a
steam roller to make it as good as any in
Europe. It is lined on both sides with im
mense pine and cedar trees. Many of these
trees are twelve feet in diameter ; and often
the roots are grown together, so that four
or five trees look like one. They are sixty
to eighty feet high, and afford an excellent
shade.

Nikko. 21
The distance from the railway station to
this place is twenty-five miles, and we made
it in four hours with two men harnessed to
the jinrickishas tandem. We made only
one stop of half an hour for lunch, which
we brought with us, and ate at one of the
numerous tea-houses.
We arrived at 4 P.M., delighted at the
wonderful sights, but much fatigued and
very cold. Rooms had been engaged for us
in an excellent hotel, excellent in all re
spects except that there was no way of
heating, unless with pans of charcoal. I
suffered greatly from the cold, though I had
warm clothing, including a heavy overcoat
which had done me good service the pre
vious winter at Montreal when the ther
mometer stood at thirty degrees below zero.
Near the hotel are a dozen or more
costly and grotesque edifices, much adorned
with carved-wood statues of horrible-looking
beasts and devils, covered with bronze and
gold. There are temples of Buddha, and
gorgeous mausoleums of kings who died
five hundred years ago, situated in a park
of big trees ; but looking at them, though
interesting, was not agreeable, and I was
quite satisfied with one visit.

2 2 Around the World.
To-day we made an excursion to a lake
among the mountains, five thousand feet
high. I was furnished with a mountain horse
which proved an ugly brute ; kicked and
stumbled, and put the bit between his teeth,
so that I could not control him, and he nearly
trotted the hfe out of me. We went up and
along the winding paths, passing numerous
waterfalls, one of which was 750 feet high,
and at last reached the lake, which is of great
beauty. The mountains rise directly from
the water's edge. They are covered to their
very tops with green trees, the leaves of
which have a singular feathery appearance.
The tea-houses where we stopped for
lunch were models of cleanliness and com
fort. We brought our own provisions as
usual, but had in addition a boiled fish just
taken from the lake.
We stopped in and around the tea-houses
for some hours; and then I mounted my
ugly brute of a horse and rode back to the
hotel, a much used-up man. I was glad to
get a bath and to retire early.
We returned to the railway station by
the road we came, and again made the dis
tance in four hours, with only one stop of
fifteen minutes.

CHAPTER V.
MIYNOSKITA.
Miynoskita, Japan, Oct. 24, 1889.
ESTERDAY at 10 a.m.
we left Yokohama, ar
rived at the railroad sta
tion at twelve, and
reached this favorite wat
ering-place, among the
mountains, in four hours by jinrickishas.
Our rooms had been engaged in an excel
lent hotel, called Fujiya, and soon after our
arrival a fine dinner was served of soup,
fish, roast beef, sago pudding, and other
delicacies, to which we did ^mple justice.
The waitresses were all pretty native girls,
dressed in their native costumes; there were
a dozen or more of them about the hotel.
These waitresses were pleasant, jolly, and
very polite, but very small in stature ; some
of them walked under my outstretched arm,
and all of them might have done so.
I have a fine front room, and look out
upon the surrounding mountains, which are

24 Around the World.
very lofty and covered with green trees.
This is an ideal mountain resort — great
mountains, a roaring river winding some
hundreds of feet below the road, and numer
ous water-falls ; the water rushing down into
the river. From one point of view I counted
seven water-falls, and found on trial that one
of them came from a hot spring far up among
the mountains, and the water was quite warm
when it reached the road. I walked along
the road for several miles and found it won
derfully romantic everywhere. The road
itself is a fine specimen of engineering, very
expensive to build, and almost as good as
the famous one built by Napoleon IIL, from
Geneva to Chamouni.
We are here rather too late in the sea
son to thoroughly enjoy the place and sur
roundings, it being cold and the methods of
heating houses imperfect, but in summer it
must be perfectly lovely.
There is another hotel being erected near
the one we are in, and I was much inter
ested watching their method of work. They
required a lot of earth for filling in, and
were transporting it in baskets from the
mountains above. Two men would fill a
basket, suspend it across their shoulders by

Lake ffakone. 25
a bamboo pole, dump it where wanted, and
return for more. I longed to present them
with a wheelbarrow, and show them how to
move earth ten times faster than they were
doing. It would appear that there are no
saw-mills in this country, for the men were
sawing out boards and timber by hand, to
use in the construction of this hotel. A
stick of timber a foot or two in diameter
was arranged with one end resting on the
ground, and the other placed on a wooden
horse four or five feet high ; a man then
mounted the stick and laboriously sawed
out boards with a hand-saw. The workmen
had no clothing on except a breech cloth,
and were all doing constant and faithful
service for, as we were informed, ten hours
a day ; the pay being ten cents per day.
For similar service in our country, as every
one knows, mechanics are paid from $2.50
to $3.50 per day.
We left the hotel at nine this morning
and took a trip among the mountains to
Lake Hakone. I selected my horse this
time, and he proved an excellent animal, a
small, shaggy fellow, kind and easy trotting,
but much given to stumbling and letting
both heels fly if another horse came near,

26 Around the World.
which little amusement of his nearly un
seated me several times. We went up six
thousand feet over the worst of mountain
roads, but my animal walked carefully, often
along narrow paths, where a fall would have
tumbled us hundreds of feet below. I
enjoyed the ride very much. It took six
horses and seven chairs to accommodate our
party, each horse having a man to attend to
him, and each chair carried by four men,
making a large procession. We arrived in
two or three hours at an hotel on the lake,
and after an excellent lunch took boats and
crossed over to near the foot of Fusiyama,
the horses and men going around to meet us.
Fusiyama is the brag mountain of Japan,
the only one of much size in the empire,
and is universally known and photographed
in all possible ways. It is fourteen thou
sand feet high, and is, as I write, covered
with snow, and presents a beautiful appear
ance from the lake.
We landed and walked over the moun
tains to the place where the horses had
been sent. The sun was terribly hot in
some places, and in others the only path
was along the bed of dry brooks. We
passed over the crater of an active volcano,

Fusiyama. 2 7
steam and smoke rushing out near the path.
The guide said it was dangerous to wander
from the path, and pointed out where two
native guides had fallen through and had
not been seen since. There was no wander
ing after this fact was stated. After two or
three hours of dreadful fatigue, we found
our horses, and I was very glad to mount
my shaggy old fellow, who carried me safely
over slippery rocks, along narrow paths, and
a road (where there was any) as bad as a
road could be, arriving at the hotel at six,
much fatigued, but in good form and ready
for the excellent dinner which was waiting
our arrival.
After thoroughly enjoying this delightful
spot for two days, we started down the
mountain road in the morning and came
along in jinrickishas at a tremendous pace,
making the distance — fourteen and one-half
miles — to the railroad in two hours. We
reached Yokohama at 7 P.M., in season for
a fine dinner.

CHAPTER VI.
KOBg.
Kobj6, Japan, Nov. 7, 1889.
N the 2d inst. we left Yoko
hama by the Japanese
steamer Omi Mars, Cap
tain Island Vrise. During
the afternoon we passed
an island on which is a
volcano in eruption. It is 2,550 feet high,
and was a pretty sight as seen from the
steamer. We arrived at this fine city at 5
P.M., and were soon in comfortable quarters
at an excellent hotel, and, as it was very
cold, I had a grate-fire in my room, which I
enjoyed very much. The city is beautifully
situated near the shore, with great moun
tains for a background, and the harbor is
very fine. As usual, big steamers and crafts
of all kinds were to be seen, representing
England, France, Italy, Russia, and other
countries — but Stars and Stripes there were
none. We left on the 4th by rail for Kioto,

Kioto. 29
arriving there at 5 P.M., at a really splendid
hotel, as fine as any in Europe. The city is
a very old one, and one of the largest and
most interesting in Japan ; great numbers
of temples and palaces, and, in and around
it, most lovely scenery. Some of the tem
ples were erected seven hundred years ago.
In the. evening I went with a party and called
on the American missionaries, who were
holding a monthly meeting at one of their
houses. They have a large college building,
and all seem greatly interested in their work.
The next morning we started early to
make the famous Oigawa Rapids excursion.
The entire party, except two ladies, went in
jinrickishas, over bad roads, through im
mense fields of rice, vegetables; and tea-
plants, and then up a rough mountain road.
Once my cooly's carelessness tipped me over,
but, as good luck would have it, toward the
cliff and not into the rushing river, so no
harm was done. We had to leave the ve
hicles several times, the road having been
badly washed out a month ago by a big
typhoon, which caused floods and great dis
asters all over the island. Some thousands
of lives were lost, and there was great
destruction of property.

30 Around the World.
We stopped once to rest, and then went
through fields for a mile or two to the river
Hodza, where we took three flat-bottomed
boats, manned by three boatmen each, and
passed down over numerous rapids, and
through what in California would be called
a cafion — mountains from two thousand to
three thousand feet high, clothed with ver
dure to their tops. The river is from two
hundred to three hundred feet wide and full
of rocks, and was really, it appeared to me,
very dangerous ; but the boatmen were skil
ful, and we did the distance, seven miles, in
one and one-half hours. We had lunch at a
tea-house, and returned by another route to
the city, passing through other fields and
seeing an immense number of children every
where. We arrived at the hotel at 5 P.M.,
the excursion being pronounced by all to
have been the most interesting we had
enjoyed in Japan.
On the 6th inst. we left the city at 9 A.M.
in jinrickishas, and passed along a splendid
wide national road for seven miles, to Lake
Viwa. We met great crowds of people on
foot coming to the city, and numerous
trucks loaded with stone, timber, rice, and
vegetables. Occasionally a single bullock

Kioto. 3 1
would be drawing the vehicles, but gener
ally this was done by two to four men. We
met two processions of ten trucks, each
loaded with stone. The trucks were drawn
by prisoners, with a soldier to guard each
truck. The prisoners were comfortable-
looking, and appeared as jolly as any of the
travellers. They were building a canal from
the lake to Kioto, nine miles long, four
miles of which they said was a tunnel. I
examined a part of it, and found it to be of
excellent construction. We arrived at the
lake at noon. After lunch we went aboard
a small steamer, and proceeded to a point
where there was a famous temple, and
landed. But looking at temples in this
country has become monotonous, and I
spent my time sitting under a wonderful
pine-tree, which is eight feet in diameter,
with limbs trained out for fifty feet hori
zontally each way. We steamed around the
lake for an hour or two, and returned by the
same road we came, reaching the hotel at
six. I found a good fire in a stove in my
room, which was very acceptable.

CHAPTER VII.
OSAKA.
Osaka, Japan, Nov. 8, 1889.
' E left Kioto at 10 a.m. this
morning by rail, and ar
rived in this remarkable
city at II. 15. It is a most
interesting place, having
a large number of canals
and bridges, in which respect it resembles
Venice more than any other city. It is the
second city in size and importance in the
empire, having about a million and a half
inhabitants, and numerous industries, such
as cotton factories, etc. ; also the imperial
mint, which we visited.
The machinery of this mint was all made
in France — with one or two exceptions, of
English make — and is very fine. This is
the most exclusively native city we have
visited, there being only seven resident
foreigners, and only one American, from
Charlestown, Mass., who is here for two

Osaka. 33
years to superintend the erection of a
brush factory.
There are numerous large boats con
stantly passing through the canals, heavily
loaded with cotton and all kinds of goods,
showing an extensive commerce. Toward
evening I took a walk across a long bridge,
and rested myself on a seat in a small park
overlooking the river ; but the people
stopped their work to look at me to such
an extent as to make it disagreeable, and I
returned to the hotel. The next morning
we retorned to our old quarters in the
hotel at Kob6.

CHAPTER VIII.

HONG-KONG.
Hong-Kong, Nov. i8, i88g.
'eAVING Kobd on the
evening of the Sth, by the
Peninsular and Oriental
steamer Ancona, we ar
rived here at seven this
evening. This line of
steamers has the contract for transporting
the English mails all over the Eastem
waters, including Australia, Japan, and
China, and has in commission fifty-four
vessels, some of them of 6,ooo tons, repre
senting 7,000 horse-power.
On the 14th and 15th we were steaming
through the famous inland sea, the beauty
of which could hardly be exaggerated by a
writer of a poetical turn of mind, passing
between Nipon, a large island, on one side,
and many hundred smaller ones on the
other. The channel would often be near
the shores, where we could see the villages
and cultivated land. The islands being vol-

Nagasaki. 35
canic, were in all sorts of fantastic shapes ;
one called the Asses'-ears was very funny
looking. The water is very clear and blue,
the islands largely cultivated and clothed
with green to the summits of their moun
tains. On the morning of the 15th the steamer
dropped her anchor at Nagasaki, and we all
went ashore sight-seeing and shopping. We
rode about through long streets, and called
at several factories and stores ; among
others, at a place where was made a variety
of shell-work, which was very pretty. I
made some purchases.
The owner of the place spoke English,
and I recommended him to send an exhibi
tion of his goods to the fair which was ex
pected to be opened in New York in 1892,
and he astonished me by asking what
country New York was in. But life being
too short for me to teach him the rudiments
of geography, I paid for my purchase, and
came away.
We went to see more temples. In the
grounds near one of them were two small
trees, and on a stone near it was engraved,
" Planted by Mr. and Mrs. Gen. Grant, 1879."
We had an excellent lunch at the Hotel

36 Around the World.
Bellevue, took another trip around the city,
and came back to the ship at 6 P.M.
The harbor is one of great beauty, nearly
landlocked, and surrounded by hills covered
with verdure. It was crowded with ships,
three Russian men-of-war, one American,
and several English.
Nothing could have been more lovely than
the trip from Nagasaki to this port — the sea
as smooth as a pond, weather warm, and
everything quite agreeable and comfortable.
We came up the bay last evening between
four and six. It was a splendid show. One
of the finest harbors in the world, eleven
miles long and from two to five wide. The
islands and mountains covered with verdure.
The island of Hong-Kong was taken pos
session of by the British after the war with
China in 1842, and now has a population of
one hundred and forty thousand.
We left the steamer after dark in a tug,
and had a fine view of the city of Victoria ;
the streets and buildings covering the hills
for a long distance, and the vessels in the
harbor being brilliantly lighted, presented a
splendid appearance as we approached.
We soon took possession of rooms previ
ously engaged at the Hong-Kong Hotel,

Hong-Kong. 37
and found it to be in all respects first-class,
including an Otis elevator furnished by their
London house. The waiters are all Chinese,
tall and good-looking, and dressed in long
blue night-gowns or frocks.
This city surpasses Gibraltar in the num
ber of nationalities one sees in the streets,
every nation on earth appearing to be rep
resented, and I am much interested in look
ing at them as they pass.
The policemen are a sight — tall, black fel
lows from the Malay Peninsula. Their uni
form is the same as worn by those in New
York, except a large red turban, which
gives them a very imposing appearance.
Passing for a mile or so alongside the
water front between 5 and 6 P.M., I found
that hundreds of boats had returned from
fishing, or other business, and were tied to
the piers, bows on, giving me a chance to
see this phase of Chinese life, which had
always interested me when reading about
it. They were all having their suppers — a
family of ten sitting in a circle, with a big
bowl of food, apparently rice, in the centre.
Each person had a small bowl, which was
often replenished, and the food eaten with
chop-sticks. The boat was their home, their

38 Around the World.
sole residence. In one case a small boy
was eating and his mother was boxing his
ears very roughly. Except the children, no
one paid any attention to me ; this being an
English city the people are accustomed to
foreigners. One morning we called jinrickishas and
went on a ten minutes' trip to the foot of
the mountains, which are back of the city,
and there entered a cable tramway car,
which took us up a very steep incline, a
mile or so, to a station, and then we took
sedan chairs and continued our trip to the
top of Mount Victoria, 1,825 feet high.
From there we looked down upon the bay,
the city, many islands, and the mainland of
China on the opposite shores — a scene of
unsurpassed magnificence. The big steam
ers in the beautiful bay looked like canoes
on the calm waters of an inland lake.
The island is a series of mountains, over,
around, and through which are built splen
did roads, near which are many beautiful
residences, where the governor and wealthy
people reside.
We looked about for a couple of hours
and then took the tramway down. Some
of the more timid of the party preferred to

Hong-Kong. 39
come all the way down in the sedans, and
said they had a delightful trip.
The sedan I was in was carried by two
men, who were very picturesque, their
bronzed bodies shining in the sun. Their
bare feet pressed the ground with a sure
tread. Sometimes I have seen a sedjm car
ried by four men with white trousers and
red sacks, their heads covered by large bam
boo hats, and altogether presenting a very
attractive appearance.
The thermometer on the top of Mount
Victoria registered only sixty-five degrees,
but I never felt such heat in July at home.
However, when in Japan I suffered so much
from cold weather that I am quite glad to
have some of the other kind now.

CHAPTER IX.
CANTON.
Canton, Nov. 21, 1889.
^^^^^^1 ROM Hong-Kong we sailed
ll^^^^^ on the 2 1st inst. at 8 A.M.,
^^^^Biffl for this city, by the fine
S^^^^Hl English steamer Hankow,
^^^^^^j Captain Lloyd, and arrived
at 2.30 P.M.
There being but one hotel here, the Ori
ental, and that a very poor one, we made
use of the English passenger boats as hotels
during our stay, and found them excellent
in all ways ; large, clean rooms, and table
very fine, including all kinds of wines and
beer furnished gratis, and wood-cock and
snipe every day.
Leaving the beautiful harbor of Hong-
Kong, with its immense fortifications, we
passed into the Canton River, a mile or two
wide for many miles from its mouth, and
having high mountains on each side, covered
with green trees and grass. There were

Canton. 41
great fortifications all along, armed with big
Krupp guns. We saw large numbers of the
national boats, called sampans, and many
villages, houses, and tents.
As we approached Canton the river nar
rowed to about a thousand feet, and I was
able to closely observe the country. Banana
trees lined the shores for many miles, sugar
cane and rice fields stretched as far as I
could see. Scattered all along the country
and in the city, big brick buildings, one
hundred feet square and six stories high,
were very prominent. These were pawn
brokers' establishments.
As we approached the city, the largest
building seen was a Catholic cathedral, with
two great towers ; a splendid edifice, but
not yet finished.
We had an excellent lunch on the steamer,
and then went in sedan chairs to call on Mr.
Charles Seymour, the United States Con
sul, and his wife. After being kindly enter
tained in their beautiful residence, we re
turned to the boat, and spent the remainder
of the day and evening watching the won
derful life on the river.
There was a ferry-house near, and I
learned that the cost of ferrying across the

42 Around the World.
river was one-fifth of a cent, and that a
howling swell could have a boat alone for
one and a half cents.
After a good dinner at seven, and a good
night's sleep, we all took sedan chairs, three
men to each chair, the conductor ahead with
the native guide, Ah Cum, a fine-looking
Chinese gentleman with finger-nails two
inches long, and the entire day was spent
in sight-seeing.
All the streets of the city are from four
to ten feet wide, no sidewalks, and are paved
with granite blocks a foot wide and six feet
long. The houses all have shops in front.
We did not see one private house in the city
outside of the foreign settlements. The
buildings are mostly two stories high, built
of brick, and the stores have no glass or
other fronts ; all open to the street.
The streets are crowded with an immense
mass of men, women, and children, nearly
all with no clothing above their hips, and
as our men pushed their way along, yelling
and screaming, the people would stop, crowd
around us with wonder, but were never
impolite. We passed along many miles of streets,
lined with stores of all kinds, the butchers'

Canton. 43
shops displaying dead rats hanging up, and
once I saw the carcass of a large dog with
the hair scalded off lying on the butcher's
table ready to be cut up for customers.
It has rained here for two days, and the
streets are very dirty and bad-smelling.
There is no system of sewerage, no horses
or draught animals. Everything, including
all kinds of sewerage and slops and building
materials, is carried along by men, women,
and children. Frequently there were such
masses of people going and coming that
traffic would be clogged, and we had much
difficulty in getting through.
To write of all the extraordinary things I
have seen to-day would require a big book,
and I can therefore only mention that we
went to a flour mill and saw them grinding
wheat by stones forced around by blind
oxen, just as they used to do in Bible times
in Palestine.
We went into a jail and saw poor wretches
in irons with wooden collars around their
necks ; and on the street two of them were
in the stocks, their hands and feet confined.
The court-house was near, and some of our
party attended a trial which had been pro
gressing for some days. The wife of the

44 Around the World.
judge saw there were ladies in the party,
and invited them into an interior room and
entertained them with tea.
The prisoner was accused of forging the
deed of a house and land belonging to one
of his wives, and selling her furniture, all
valued at two thousand dollars. Several
witnesses proved that all this was so, and
the wife appeared with her marriage certifi
cate. At the moment when our party ar
rived, the prisoner was on the stand. He
denied that he was married to the woman
or had ever sold any of her property. The
judge was very angry, and said to the pris
oner that he was the greatest liar in China,
and ordered that he should be punished
with 150 blows with a bamboo stick then
and there. He was thrown down, and held
by several men, while another struck the
blows with great severity on his bare back,
causing the poor wretch to yell with agony,
so that he could be heard far out on the
street, as well as in the interior room where
the ladies were drinking tea. After fifty
blows had been given, the man was asked
to confess, but he refused and was given
fifty more ; and the native guide said that
he would no doubt have his head cut off in

Canton. 45
a few days. We saw on our route a beauti
ful club-house, and a clock two hundred
years old, made to go by water. Lunch was
served in a splendid seven-story pagoda on
a hill outside of the city wall, from the top
of which we looked down upon one section
of the city and an immense cemetery. A
part of this was devoted to rich men's
tombs, all above ground, the peculiarities
of which were that the coffins were all in
sight. After lunch we were again rushed
through the crowded streets, stopping at
many shops, some of the party purchasing
largely of silks, satins, crockery, and curios ;
and at six we returned to the boat, a very
much instructed but fatigued party.
In the evening I was greatly interested in
watching what was going on in the family
boats, called sampans, which were anchored
between our boat and the shore. I counted
from the steamer 164 of them, with their
sterns toward us. Each boat had a kero
sene-oil stove, and in a frying-pan they were
preparing their suppers, which consisted
apparently of rice. I noticed that when the
woman who was stirring the food wished to
moisten it, she dipped water from the river,
in which was floating all the filth of the

46 Around the World.
great city. Each member of the family
had a bowl which he dipped into the food,
and proceeded to eat with chopsticks.
There are many thousand of such boats
on the river, the only homes of their occu
pants. We spent another day in Canton, going
about in sedan chairs, steamers, and sam
pans, and saw many places and objects of
interest ; but two days have been quite
enough for this city, and I was glad to get
aboard the fine steamer Honam, Captain
Febor, which left at 5.30 P.M., and arrived
at Hong-Kong at i A.M., we all going
directly to the rooms retained for us at the
hotel. Here I had the pleasure of meeting
a lady from New York, Mrs. R. H. L.
Townsend, who is making a tour around
the world, accompanied by another lady,
and has accomplished the trip thus far with
out trouble, being everywhere received with
distinguished consideration.

CHAPTER X.
HONG-KONG.
Hong-Kong, Dec. 3, 1889.
E have been detained here
ten days, awaiting the
arrival of a P. and O.
steamer, for which we
were booked, but have
passed the time in a very
delightful manner.
I went nearly every day to the park and
public gardens, of about twenty acres, situ
ated several hundred feet above the main
street, laid out in the best manner, and con
taining a great variety of trees and flowers,
such as grow only in tropical climates. On
one occasion a friend and myself were sit
ting on a bench near a handsomely dressed
Chinese gentleman. My friend said : " See
what a handsome girl is coming, and how
beautifully she is dressed, but how deplora
ble that she has such little feet." I agreed
with him, and said it was a pity such a
pretty creature was obliged to submit to a

48 Around the World.
barbarous custom hke that. The Chinese
gentleman spoke to us in excellent English,
and said : " Do you think so ? That is my
daughter, and while I agree with you, we
feel obliged to make her feet small or no
Chinese gentleman would marry her."
We made apologies, which were kindly
accepted, and in a long conversation with
the gentleman we learned much of China,
he being a resident of Canton who had
been educated in the United States. I can
not agree with my Chinese friend that it
will be so long a time before China will
be opened to European civilization, for her
332,000,000 people are beginning to feel
the pressure of surrounding nations ; Rus
sia on the north, and England, Germany,
France, and Italy on her sea-coasts, and,
above all, the example of the wonderful
advances made by Japan, are having strong
influences upon China. China has now for
a Prime-Minister Li Hung Chang, a very
great man, the equal of Bismarck or Glad
stone, and the young emperor has very
advanced ideas. Just now we read in the
newspapers that Li Hung Chang had caused
a system of railways to be laid out, to run
all over the vast empire, but it appears that

Hong-Kong. 49
the religious authorities have some sort of a
veto on political actions, and because one of
the gates at Pekin had been destroyed by
fire, which they attributed to the anger of
the gods on account of the attempt to build
railroads, the invention of " foreign devils,"
they would not consent, and consequently
the railroad plan was abandoned for the
present. There is only one railroad in the
empire, up north, running from a coal mine
to the sea, eighty miles long.
The emperor has, in his extensive palace
grounds at Pekin, a miniature railroad, much
like the one which was in the grounds of
the Centennial Exposition at Philadelphia
in 1876, with a locomotive and car attached,
which was built and presented to him by
the French, and he is said to be very much
pleased riding about on it.
I think it a misfortune to China, and to
this country, that our great general, Ulysses
S. Grant, was not permitted to live a few
years longer, for through the great friend
ship of Li Hung Chang for him, and the
high regard in which he was held, not only
by all the rulers of the Asiatic countries,
but by the people themselves, it is more
than likely that we would have seen China
4

50 Around the World.
opened to modern civilization, as Japan has
been, and the United States of America
reaping the advantages of close commercial
relations with her, and at the same time
amicably restricting the emigration of her
people to this country.
One afternoon we hired a steam yacht and
went about the harbor and partly around
the island. We stopped to examine a dry
dock, where a large steamer was being re
paired, and I was delighted to see that one
of the big pumps used for pumping the
water out of the dock was made by the A.
S. Cameron Co., of New York, for you do
not often see anything in this part of the
world to remind you of home — kerosene oil.
Singer's sewing-machines, and clocks being
about all. The English appear to supply
nearly everything to the countless millions
of this Eastern country, owing, of course, to
the fact that their government does so much
to forward the interests of her merchants
and manufacturers, and I think it only right
to say that wherever you see a British flag
in this part of the world there follows it
Christianity, civilization in all its advanced
phases, and safety to life and property, and
not anywhere is the great contrast between

Hong-Kong. 5 1
civilization and semi-barbarism shown so
strongly as in the comforts and beauties of
this lovely city as against the horrors of
Canton. This is an important commercial city.
The governor stated in a late message that
it was the third or fourth export city in the
world. There is a great deal of building
going on up the mountains, the bricks for
which are being carried from the vessels to
their destinations by coolies, each man car
rying two baskets suspended from a bamboo
stick across his shoulders, each basket con
taining eighteen large bricks. The moun
tains are very steep, and the distance about
two miles, so that the men can only make
two or three trips a day, and their pay is
five cents a trip.
The fine winding roads were alive with
these men ; a thousand or more were to be
seen at one time.

CHAPTER XI.
SINGAPORE.

Singapore, Dec. 9, 1889.
N the 4th inst. we left the
beautiful island of Hong-
Kong and the city of Vic
toria by the steamer Kai-
sar-i-Hind (Empress of In
dia). The accommodations
and appointments of the steamer were first-
class — electric lights, plenty of ice, and
every convenience.
On Sunday morning the English service
was read from the prayer-book by the cap
tain to a congregation consisting of all of
the officers and most of the passengers.
Before this there was a parade of the crew
and servants — some sixty Lascars, black,
sharp-looking fellows dressed in frocks and
bright head-dresses, and looking very fine.
Yesterday was very hot. We were near
ing the equator, and the captain had punkas
put up in the dining cabin. A Lascar boy

Singapore. 53
pulled the strings running over pulleys and
fanned us during meal times, which was
very agreeable.
Again I have to note how lonely these
sea voyages are. Since we left Hong-Kong,
five days, not a craft has been seen, only a
wide waste of water, generally as smooth
as a pond.
The steamer arrived at seven in the morn
ing, and was soon surrounded by boats, each
containing two or three boys. The passen
gers threw silver pieces into the water, and
the boys would dive after them, and seemed
to get them every time. It was great fun
to watch them. A little bald-headed fellow
not more than six years old attracted my
attention, and I threw some bright pieces
near his boat. Over he went and caught
them every time, and was pulled into the
boat by his older companion, triumphantly
holding up the pieces.
We came ashore and were soon in our
rooms in the large and first-rate Hotel de
I'Europe. We were within about fifty miles of the
equator, and the heat was intense. After
resting we took carriages, it being quite a
comfort to have them once more, and drove

54 Around the World.
over fine roads, past splendid government
and other buildings, two or three miles out
to a botanical garden, said to be one of the
finest in the worid, all in perfect order, with
trees and plants such as can be seen only
in the tropics ; tall trees, with clusters of
cocoa-nuts on them, and the fan palm, a
great curiosity to me, being in the shape of a
fan fifty feet high. Pine-apples were every
where, for this is the home of that fine
fruit ; big trees, covered with red and white
flowers, and plants of great variety and
beauty, all in a park of a hundred acres or
more ; houses filled with fine orchids, and
others containing beautiful native birds. It
was very hot — ninety degrees or so — and
oppressive, but we all stood it for a couple
of hours, and most of our party, who had
seen many such shows in all parts of the
world, said that they had never seen any
thing approaching this for variety and
beauty. We then took our carriages and
returned to the hotel for lunch, and imme
diately afterward went on another tour
around the well-built, handsome city.
Fine stores and public buildings, perfect
pavements, splendid turn-outs, and all the
appliances of civilization were everywhere.

Singapore. 55
No more babies carried pickapack, as in
Japan and China. They were often nude,
but looked well-cared for, comfortable, and
happy. The natives are of the Malay race, and
their dress is of the brightest, generally a
frock of white or red cotton and no trousers.
We returned to the hotel at five, and after
resting an hour had an excellent dinner.
Being verj'^ hungry, I partook of all the
courses, the dinner being h la Russe. One
incident was particularly tropical. The ceil
ing and sides of the dining-room were cov
ered with little green lizards, crawling about
and catching flies. Some of the ladies were
nervous, fearing that the creatures might
drop into the soup or on their hair, but I
did 'not mind, knowing them to be harmless.
The landlord, who has been here twenty-
eight years, thinks that I should stay here at
least a week, and go on to the Malay Penin
sula to shoot tigers, but I have concluded
to postpone that kind of amusement until I
come again. I find it best to be very tem
perate in this terribly hot country, limiting
my beverages to soda and Apollinaris water,
and am very thankful to have plenty of ice,
which is now manufactured in this city and

56 Around the World.
all other large cities in the East. The P.
& O. line of steamers alone spends one
hundred thousand dollars annually for ice.
When I retired at night I found that they
had not provided me with even a sheet
for a cover ; only a mosquito net. The
Chinese chamber-man was sleeping in front
of my door, but I did not like to disturb
him, so I turned in, and it being very hot I
got along very well, and had a good night's
rest. I was out early in the morning, and was
greatly interested in looking at the sights of
the city. They were making a park of large
dimensions, fronting the water, and a hun
dred or more wagons were used to transport
the dirt from the country. Each wagon
was drawn by a pair of bullocks driven by
a Malay. These drivers were bright-eyed,
smart-looking men, with nothing on but a
cloth around their loins, and no covering to
their heads. They sat on the tongues of
the wagons, and I was much amused to see
that when they wanted the bullocks to turn
a corner they twisted their tails, and the
obedient beasts at once went in the direc
tion indicated.
I saw a great drove of goats passing

Singapore. 57
along, as many as four hundred, and men
from all countries in great variety of dress.
Singapore is a very busy place, being the
chief city of the Straits Settlements, whence
comes a larger part of the tin used in such
immense quantities all over the world. The
familiar ingots of tin were to be seen on
the streets and sidewalks and being trucked
toward the big steamers.

CHAPTER XII.
ON BOARD THE " KAISAR-I-HIND."
Steamer "Kaisar-i-Hind,"off Sumatra,
Dec. 13, 1889.
fl FTER mailing letters on
the I oth inst. at Singa
pore, we went on board
the steamer at 4 P.M., and
started again on our voy
age. We were then only
forty-five miles from the equator, and
though the thermometer recorded only
eighty degrees, it seemed much as if it
were over a hundred. However, as soon
as the steamer got under way it was quite
comfortable. After a day and two nights
we arrived at Penang, and at 9 A.M. went
ashore, and all took carriages for a drive
through one of the prettiest and hottest
towns in the world. We were driven along
wide, beautifully paved, clean streets for
three miles to a water-fall and a botanical
garden, and it was a drive well worth having.
On both sides of the road were plantations

Steamer " Kaisar-i-Hind." .. 59
of cocoa-nut trees, bearing ripe fruit, and
once I saw a large nut fall to the ground
with a dull thud.
Our tough little horse, driven by a black
man from India, trotted along very fast.
The road was lined with many strange trees
laden with fruit, and the fields near by were
covered with brilliant flowers.
We got out of the carriage at the botani
cal garden and walked about for a short
time, but were glad to get in again, as the
sun was intensely hot. Returning we trav
ersed the same beautiful road, viewing the
cocoa-nut trees, the mango, and many
strange and beautiful fruits and flowers.
Workmen were engaged getting out stone
and paving the roads, their black backs
shining in the hot sun. Here we saw travel
ling on the road many gayly dressed Indian
women, with bright silver ornaments on their
arms and in their noses. We drove around
the soldiers' barracks and hospitals and
through the handsome streets of the town,
and at ten o'clock took a boat to the steamer,
much pleased by our little trip ashore, which
gave us a change before starting on the voy
age for Colombo. We steamed away once
more, and soon after lunch, while I was read-

6o Around the World.
ing in my stateroom, I heard a commotion
on deck, and, running up, reached there just
as the captain did. " Man overboard ! " was
the cry, and the sailors were crawling into a
boat like cats. The second officer was al
ready there, and in two minutes the boat
was lowered into the water, and was off. I
looked over the side of the vessel and saw
that a patent buoy and life-preserver had
been thrown over. With a glass I could see
the black fellow swimming for the buoy,
which he soon reached, and shortly after
ward the boat picked him up and returned
with him to the ship in just eighteen min
utes from the time she left. Wonderful
discipline was displayed, not a loud word
being spoken. After the boat was hauled
up the captain touched a bell, and away we
went again.
The patent buoy before mentioned had
attached to it a tin box, containing some
sandwiches and a small flask of whiskey,
which the rescued sailor had confiscated
before the arrival of the boat.
At four o'clock one morning a boy called
me to get up and see the famous Southern
Cross. I at once joined the company, and
looked upon four stars, which formed an

Steamer ''Kaisar-i-Hind." 6i
immense and perfect cross, very beautiful
to behold. It was a splendid night, the
bright moon shining on the water, and
countless stars above, many of which are
never seen except in this latitude.

CHAPTER XIII.
COLOMBO.
Colombo, Ceylon, Dec. i8, 1889.
IX days from Singapore,
we arrived here on the
evening of the i6th inst.
and at once went to our
rooms at the Grand Orien
tal Hotel, which had been
engaged some weeks in ad
vance. Colombo is the capital of Ceylon,
and has a population of one hundred and
twenty thousand, and many large and hand
some buildings.
As we passed along the coast last evening
immense groves of cocoa-nut trees were
seen from the vessel, extending along the
shore for thirty miles or so. It was the
hottest weather yet experienced, not more
than eighty degrees, as shown by the ther
mometer, but very oppressive.
This morning, after an excellent break
fast at the hotel, I went with all the party
on a drive in and around the city. It was

Colombo. 63
dreadfully hot, and we had about such an
entertainment as one might expect driving
around New York or Chicago streets on a
July day, with the thermometer at ninety
degrees. The streets and roads are clean,
wide, and in perfect order. We stopped at
a large market, where the natives crowded
around us, and where were tropical fruits
of many kinds, some of which I had never
heard of before. We passed many groves
of cocoa-nut and banana trees laden with
fruit, public and private buildings, and large
and handsome bungalows, churches, and
schools, but the people who crowded the
streets were the most interesting to see —
Indians, Malays, Singhalese, and Chinese,
dressed in their native costumes, all indus
trious, orderly, and civil.
We called upon Arabi Pasha, who was
banished from Egypt some years ago for
heading a rebellion against the Khedive.
His residence is a fine bungalow, surrounded
by handsome grounds. He is a portly gen
tleman of about sixty-five years, speaking
good English, and appeared very glad to see
us. We spent a short half-hour talking with
him, and then took our leave and continued
our tour around the city. We saw numer-

64 Around the World.
ous shops and plantations once more, and
studied the remarkable people we met, and
were especially interested by the young chil
dren swarming in the streets everywhere,
and looking like little animated bronze
statues. We went through a fine museum and saw
a great collection of historical objects be
longing to Ceylon, one being a rudely sculp
tured figure of a lion carved in stone three
hundred years ago.
This island is the great producer of the
ruby, sapphire, and pearl, dealers in which
have stores near, and are allowed to come
around the hotel. They are very trouble
some in their attentions, and, as is common
among merchants in this part of the world,
ask two or three times more than they ex
pect to get for their goods.
I intended to go up to the mines, fifty
miles off, where they obtain the ruby and
sapphire, but was prevented from doing so.
I also wished to see the divers go after
pearl-oysters, but a couple of weeks ago one
of them went down in the water and never
came up, a shark having caught him. Since
this accident none of his companions can be
induced to do any diving, and for the pres-

Colombo. 65
ent the industry, which is a very large and
important one, is paralyzed.
There are no fat people in this country,
and no drunkards. In a Buddhist temple,
which I saw yesterday, was a painting of a
drunkard. The culprit was represented in
hell, enduring great agony, being pierced
with daggers, and the ugliest-looking devil,
with tusks like fish-hooks, standing over
him, about to pull his teeth with big pin
cers. Any follower of Buddha looking at
that picture would surely join a temperance
society. One morning, accompanied by two friends,
I took a carriage and drove seven miles out
into the country, through the native city,
and along perfect country roads, passing
through wonderful tropical plantations and
beautiful flowers everywhere. Men and
women stared at us as we passed, and
crowds of bright, laughing children ran after
the carriage, begging for pennies. One man
had a basket of beautiful pink lotus flowers,
one of which we bought.
At length we came to the oldest temple
on the island, 2,300 years old, and where
Buddha himself preached — a splendid tem
ple, the walls of which were covered with
5

66 Around the World.
highly colored paintings, representing Tem
perance, Prudence, Fortitude, and Justice.
There was the usual big statue of Buddha
and the usual worshippers.
The ride was a delightful one, the chil
dren numerous and very funny, and beggars
without number.
Anotherday we went by rail twenty-eight
miles along the coast to the end of the
road, the entire distance through groves of
cocoa-nut trees extending as far back from
the water as we could see. Once we passed
under a banyan tree, the limbs of which
had been trained over the road twenty feet
high, in shape of an arch, then taking root
and forming other trees on the opposite
side. We spent the day at Lavini, a de
lightful sea-coast hotel, and enjoyed our
selves very much. It was quite a contrast
to the hot city whither we returned for an
eight-o'clock dinner.

CHAPTER XIV.

NEWAVA ELIYA.

Newava Eliya, Ceylon,
Dec. 20, 1889.

r&^-^-^a HIS is the sanitarium of
l^^^^^^l Ceylon, 133 miles from
¦fflf^^^raHl Colombo and 6,200 feet
I^mJ^^^^I above the sea level ; a cool
. ffi^^^a^Sl and delightful valley of a
' thousand acres or so, sur
rounded by high mountains, with a lake in
the middle — a very ideal place for a sani
tarium. The thermometer averages seventy
degrees. We left Colombo at 9 A.M. on the 19th
inst. in a first-class car engaged for the party,
and passed over a six-feet-gauge road, built
in the most substantial manner, with an
extra guard rail in dangerous places. There
were iron bridges and stone depots at vari
ous points, each depot surrounded by a
beautiful and well-kept flower-garden.
For the first fifty miles the road passed
through a flat country of beautiful fields and
cocoa-nut trees, and then we commenced to

68 Around the World.
go up and around high mountains, the build
ing of the road being a great engineering
triumph. The road was lined on both sides
for a long distance with a hedge of the
large-leafed spiked aloe, from five to six feet
high, and impenetrable by man or beast, and
then we began to see tropical vegetation in
all its luxuriant growth. Along the sides of
the road and far as the eye could see were
the blooming lantana, the sunflower, and
many large trees covered with yellow, white,
and red flowers in great profusion. For the
first time we saw tea, coffee, and cinchona
plantations, the mountains being often cov
ered to their tops with tea-plants, sturdy
bushes about two feet high, and I should
say that from the time we commenced to
see them there were many thousand acres.
From time to time we could see the na
tives, in parties of fifty or more, picking the
leaves and putting them into large baskets
and carrying them on their heads to the dry-
houses, or depots, and very picturesque they
looked in their petticoats of many colors,
their bare backs glistening in the sun. The
natives have on petticoats when they wear
anything. Generally they are bareheaded,
but sometimes sport gay-colored turbans.

Newava Eliya. 69
They are a fine race — bright, sharp, intelli
gent, cleanly, good-natured, and temperate.
The women are handsome, and wear silver
ornaments in their noses and ears.
The hotel here is an old vice-regal bunga
low, and is like a private house. After get
ting warmed by a wood fire I retired and
slept well all night. In the morning, before
breakfast, I walked out to the woods to see
the monkeys, but they did not appear, and
I did not dare to go far from the trodden
path on account ofthe cobras, which abound
in these parts. After breakfast we took car
riages down the mountain for five miles,
over as fine a road as any in Europe, to the
depot; and to our car, which had been re
tained for us, and soon we were on our way
to Kandy, our next stopping-place.
A missionary accompanied us down the
mountains, who had been twenty-seven
years in the country, and entertained us
with tales of snakes and elephants, and
some account of his work in India and Cey
lon. Coffee is no longer produced in Cey
lon, the trees havingbeen destroyed a dozen
years ago by an insect, but an immense
quantity of tea is grown, pronounced to be
the finest in the world, and which is largely

7o Around the World,
taking the place of that raised in China and
India. At 5 P.M. we reached Kandy, the ancient
capital of Ceylon, containing 14,000 popula
tion — a fine city, with many large buildings.
There is a lake in the centre, one and a half
miles in circumference. In the evening we
visited a large Buddhist temple, erected to
hold a tooth of Buddha, which the faithful
regard as a sacred relic.
On the 2ist we took carriages to the gov
ernment botanical gardens, said to be the
finest in the world, and of course nothing
like them is possible anywhere, except in
the tropics. We saw giant palms twelve
feet in diameter, stood beneath the deadly
upas tree and the mahogany, jujube, almond,
nutmeg, clove, mango, ebony, and a great
grove of immense rubber-trees, and saw an
immense variety of bright-colored flowers
and leaves. The gardens cover one hundred
and eighty acres, and we spent two delight
ful hours there, after which we drove around
the city and through the extensive park
of the Governor; returning, we took the
train at 3 P.M. and arrived at our hotel in
Colombo at seven, just in season to enjoy
the excellent dinner awaiting us.

CHAPTER XV.
ON BOARD THE "ROHILLA."
Steamer " Rohilla," near Madras,
Dec. 27, 1889.
HRISTMAS was a fear
fully hot day in Colom
bo, ninety degrees or
more, and I did not go
out in the morning, ex
cept to look into an Epis
copal church, which was handsomely deco
rated with flowers, the air being kept cool
by fans propelled by natives standing out
side. After lunch, accompanied by two friends,
I drove around the city and some miles into
the country, over splendid roads. On the
road we bought three cocoa-nuts for five
cents, and opening one, had a refreshing
drink. We returned at 5 P.M., and at once came
aboard this ship, one of the finest of the
splendid fleet of the P. & O. line. The

72 Around the World.
weather, except the terrible heat, continues
perfect — not a ripple on the sea, the sun
sets splendid, and the starlit nights of great
loveliness. One of our party, Mrs. Brown, from Hart
ford, who is well up in astronomy, pointed
out to me last evening many stars never seen
except in this part of the world. A lady
from New York, Mrs. R. H. L. Townsend,
was taken seriously ill on the 23d at the
hotel ; she was confined to her rooms for
three days, and had two doctors and a nurse ;
but just before I left for the steamer I was
glad to see that she had recovered so as to
be able to take a drive.
At the last moment the captain decided
to call at Madras, where we shall be to
morrow, long enough to go ashore and see
the famous city. Four great steamers left
Colombo the same evening that we did, one
each for Australia, Calcutta, Singapore, and
Hong-Kong, one of them being a German
vessel of immense size, 7,000 tons. On
this steamer we have all the modern im
provements : Edison lights, an excellent
table, and always plenty of ice. Life on
the ocean, as we have it, is very pleasant,
and we get along nicely, though they tell of

Madras. 73
terrific storms which rage here at other
seasons. The ship is full of passengers, largely
English, returning from Australia, very nice,
kind, and agreeable people. Yesterday a
north wind sprang up and it was delight
fully cool ; the passengers were all on deck
in groups, a dozen of the stalwart young
Englishmen playing the national game,
cricket ; some reading, a lot of children
playing, and all were happy.
In the evening we had a delightful concert
by amateurs, violin playing by a young lady,
parts of the " Bohemian Girl " and other
operas being rendered in a superior manner.
The ship slowed up so as not to get to
Madras before morning, and it was literally
sailing on a summer sea ; the moon sank
down behind the waters in a glow, present
ing a beautiful appearance. I had a good
sleep all night, and at seven in the morning
looked out and saw we were at Madras,
between two long breakwaters. Soon break
fast was over, and we all entered a big row-
boat, propelled by ten bare-backed Hindoos.
The ship was surrounded by a dozen of
these boats, the crews chattering and shout
ing, and on one occasion a boy got over-

74 Around the World.
board, but he did not mind, swam about a
short time, and then got aboard, none the
worse for his ducking.
We could see that there was a heavy surf
beating on the beach, but when our boat
struck the sand, I was lifted ashore by two
strong black men, followed by the ladies of
the party, conveyed in a similar manner.
We took carriages and drove about the city,
which is said to be the hottest in India, but
we did not find it so ; on the contrary, it
was very comfortable. We went through
the natives' quarters, and evidently they
had seen white people before, for they paid
no attention to us, not so much as we to
them, as we were looking upon a race new
to us. They had marks on their foreheads,
showing the caste to which they belonged.
We visited the markets, and saw that the
banyan tree was quite common in the
squares and along the streets, and passing
on to the great fort, we looked at the big
guns ; then we entered St. George's Church,
where there were many statues of famous
soldiers who had served in India and died
here. We called at the post-office, a large
and beautiful building, remarked on the fine
roads, the handsome appearance of the

On Board the "Rohilla." yS
women dressed in bright-colored robes, with
silver ornaments in their noses and on their
toes, and then we passed on to the ship,
well pleased that we were not to stop any
longer in such an unattractive place.
Sunday, December 29, 1889.
We reached the steamer at noon yester
day ; the deck was crowded with native
merchants trying to sell mats and all kinds
of curios, but presently they were driven off
to their boats, and the ship was put upon
her course, due north, everybody comfort
able and happy, the sea as smooth as an in
land lake. This morning we had a delight
ful service on deck, read from the English
Prayer Book by the captain, assisted by one
of his officers ; the singing, by young ladies,
was particularly fine, and now and again I
could detect the sweet tenor of my friend
from Manchester.
Before the service the crew were mustered
and reviewed by the captain. There were
nearly one hundred of them, mostly Lascars,
dressed in white with colored turbans, and
presenting a very picturesque appearance.
Last evening I was interested to see a
lady reclining on a steamer chair on deck,

76 Around the World.
and reading by the light of a portable electric
lamp fastened to the back of her chair. I
interviewed her husband this morning, and
he informed me that it was one of Edison's
inventions, and that they were now common
in London, and cost twenty dollars each.
They are four inches in diameter, and can
be carried in the coat pocket. This one he
charges from one of the lights on the ship,
and it will last fifteen hours. December 30, 1889.
We are still rushing on over a placid sea
at a moderate rate, as the ship has never
made more than 288 miles a day. The
thermometer marks seventy degrees, with a
light breeze from the north, and warm wool
len clothing is comfortable. This is a great
country for learning practical temperance,
none of our party having tasted liquor for a
month, previous experience having shown
that they were much better without it.
I noticed two young men at dinner to
day who drank two large bottles of cham
pagne, but they will doubtless find out by
experience that such indulgences do not
pay in this climate. We are only 12,500
miles from New York now, and it seems
quite like nearing home.

CHAPTER XVI.
CALCUTTA.
Calcutta, Jan. i, 1890.
E arrived here yesterday,
after a delightful trip
from Madras, and at once
went to our rooms at the
hotel, engaged some time
ago. Mine happens to
be a wooden barn-like structure built on
the roof of a six-story building, which gives
me a chance to look down upon the famous
city of palaces and immense parks — a great
show, particularly at night, when the streets
are illuminated by gas and electricity.
We were told that Calcutta was a dread
fully hot place, but last night I had my
overcoat on, and was very comfortable, the
thermometer being seventy-two degrees.
I have just returned from a tramp about
the city, and find it one of the finest I have
seen — population one million ; splendid gov
ernment and other buildings, great parks.

78 Around the World.
fine wide streets and sidewalks, and every
appearance of advanced civilization.
The natives are a handsome race, dressed
in their picturesque costumes. White and
native soldiers in brilliant uniforms are to
be met everywhere, and the whole scene is
one of great beauty.
A royal prince is here to-day, the stores
are shut, and a great review of, soldiers is
going on. The rush for rooms at the hotels
is so great that I hear of a major-general of
the British army who is to sleep in a bath
room near us to-night. On the morning of
the 2d inst. we took a carriage drive around
the city, starting at lo A.M. and returning
at 1.30.
The Botanical Gardens established in 1792
are very fine and well kept, but nothing like
the one in Kandy, Ceylon. We saw the
famous banyan tree, one hundred years old,
the main trunk of which is 42 feet in cir
cumference, the crown S50 feet in circum
ference ; there being 234 roots which strike
down from the branches into the earth.
These roots and branches become little trees
themselves. In the garden were two beauti
ful avenues of palm trees, each a quarter of
a mile long. I was much interested in a

Calcutta. 79
bridge of boats that we passed over. It was
twelve hundred feet long and seventy feet
wide, rising and falling with the tide sixteen
feet. I have seen several bridges made of
boats in different parts of the world, but
none so large and substantial as this.
We went in the afternoon to the great
fort, and inspected the immense fortifica
tions, with their great guns and piles of
balls. A marriage had just taken place in
the garrison church, and the party were out
on the lawn waiting for the arrival of car
riages. The brilliant uniforms of the officers
and the handsomely dressed ladies made a
fine show. The church is an exceedingly
beautiful one, with many costly monuments
erected to keep in memory the glorious
deeds of England's heroes, statesmen, and
scholars. In the great cathedral there were many
splendid monuments, one to the good
Bishop Heber, a name dear to the hearts
of all Christians for the beautiful hymn he
wrote, " From Greenland's Icy Mountains,"
and though I have heard it sung in many
churches all over the world, it always seems
fresh, inspiring, and beautiful.
There was a beautiful monument to Lord

8o Around the World.
Elgin, who was Governor-General of India,
and before that, of Canada, in whose history
I had a personal interest, having seen him,
and obtained from his hands a marriage
license at Montreal in 1847.
We went to a public building, in the yard
of which was marked out the size of a prison
known as the Black Hole. It was under
ground, 18 X 25 feet, where, the 20th of
January, 1756, one hundred and forty-six
persons were confined, and the next morn
ing only twenty-three were alive. In one of
the churches near was a monument erected
to the memory of Job Charnock, a sailor,
who, before Calcutta came into the pos
session of England, came ashore with a
boat-load of companions to see the sights.
They saw a widow placed on a funeral pyre
all ready to ignite and burn her alive, which
was the custom in those days. The natives
set fire to the wood, which was too much
for the gallant sailor ; so he rushed in and
saved the woman, and, it is related, subse
quently married her, and settled down as a
merchant in Calcutta, where he became rich.
Returning along the road beside a park a
mile or two long we met many fine turn
outs, containing Indian and English nabobs,

Calcutta. 8 1
and among them was a coach and four with
the widow and children of the late King of
Oude, who were taking an airing. The
ladies and children were in very gay cos
tumes, and looked exceedingly pretty. The
show was a very brilliant one, far surpassing
anything of the kind to be seen in any
other country. 6

CHAPTER XVII.

DARJEELING.

Darjeeling, India,
Jan. 4, 1890.
I T 4 P.M. yesterday we left
Calcutta, passing through
the city, which was every
where decorated for Prince
Victor, who will be a king
of England, if he lives, and
who was to arrive at the same hour we left.
We took possession of the car engaged for
us, and I noticed that the next one was en
gaged by two Indian princes, their names
being on the car. Presently they appeared,
handsomely dressed in long colored robes
and turbans, and soon after there arrived
two palanquins carried by coolies, and com
pletely shut up, containing their wives.
They held up a carpet screen to prevent out
siders from getting a look at the women, but
I caught sight of two figures, completely
covered from head to foot with white gar-

Darjeeling. 83
ments, getting out of the palanquin into the
car. The car-blinds were instantly drawn
down. I was much interested, it being my
first look at Mohammedan women.
After a tolerable night's sleep in the car
we crossed the Ganges on a ferry-boat, and
then took a narrow-gauge, two-feet-wide
railroad, called the Darjeeling and Hima
laya, which is perhaps one of the greatest
feats of engineering skill in the world. It
is run mainly on a cart-road previously
built, and cost only fifteen thousand dollars
per mile, and is fifty miles long.
We passed through a flat country for some
miles, and then commenced to go up, around,
through, and over mountains with terrible-
looking precipices, now on one hand and now
on the other. It has been a bright and
splendid day, one in a hundred, they tell us.
We were in an observation car, and we
consequently could see everything to the
best advantage. Elephants were at work in
the fields on the plains, and immense tea
plantations lined the hills and mountains.
At 4 P.M. we reached our destination,
7,400 feet high, and looked upon the mighty
Himalayas, four ranges rising each one above
the other, the two highest covered with

84 Around the World.
snow, and the one most remote appearing to
be fifty miles off, one of the peaks of which
is the famous Mount Everest, the highest
mountain in the world. The atmosphere
was exceptionally clear, and the panorama
spread before us was magnificent, and would
require the poetical pen of Bayard Taylor to
do it anything like justice. We were soon
in our rooms at an excellent hotel, which
had been engaged as usual. Mine had an
open coal-fire, and a man soon brought a
delicious cup of tea and some toast, which
were very welcome. I could hear the jackals
crying in the near woods. The country is
thickly populated and highly cultivated, the
people bright and smart, but clothed in rags
and looking very poor, beggars being every
where. Darjeeling is the sanitarium of Ben
gal. There are several hotels and numerous
fine dwellings scattered along on the moun
tain sides, and far up there are large barracks
and hospitals for soldiers. We remained
two days, and on the morning of the second
day Mr. Kolish, Mr. Jackson, and I became
ambitious to see Mount Everest from a
nearer point of view and in all its glory, so
we were called at 5 A.M. On getting out I
found my two friends mounted, but the ugly

¦ Darjeeling. 85
beast waiting for me did not approve of the
excursion, and first tried to kick me, and
then to bite, but I finally mounted and suc
ceeded in making him understand that he
had better mind me. Away we went, up
the steep but excellent roads for an eight-
mile trip to the top of one of the mountains.
My horse proved a good roadster, sometimes
trotting and then galloping, and in one and
a half hours we reached our destination, and
looked upon a great range of snow-covered
mountains ; Everest, the monarch of all,
was among them, but, much to our disap
pointment, clouds settled about the tops of
the range and we did not see the greatest
mountain in the world.
We stopped there an hour or so and took
our fill of the grand sight, and then rode down
the mountain at the same fast pace we had
come up, for the train left at ten and we had
none too much time. On our way down we
met a Chinese marriage procession. They
were making an awful din with tomtoms
and drums, and a great show with banners
and flags, which scared my horse, but the
good-natured Chinese stopped their noise
and we galloped on, reaching the hotel at
nine, having enjoyed a fine morning ride.

CHAPTER XVIII.
BENARES.
Benares Jan. 12, 1890.
N the evening of the xoth
we left Calcutta, travelled
all night, and reached here
at 1.30 P.M. yesterday. The
railroads in India are most
ly six-feet gauge, substan
tially built, but very slow, twenty-five miles
an hour being the usual speed.
We brought along our own bedding, and
stopped at stations for meals, everything
being very primitive compared with accom
modations found in America or Europe.
We passed through a country thickly popu
lated, the fields being highly cultivated, and
planted with wheat, rice, cocoa-nuts, etc.
Parrots were flying about in flocks, or
perched on the telegraph wires. Elephants
could be seen in the fields, and bullocks
were everywhere drawing carts or ploughing.
The two days we have been here have

Benares. 87
been very active ones, seeing the wonders
of this " Holy City." Yesterday morning,
at seven o'clock, we went out on the Ganges
in a big boat. Splendid palaces were along
the shore for a mile or two, and thousands
of pilgrims from all parts of India and be
yond were bathing and praying. At length
we came to the cremation places. The boat
stopped within fifty feet of the shore, and
we saw the bodies of four dead persons in
different stages of the process of cremation :
one where the ashes were being swept into
the river, and another just being brought
down ; this oiie was covered with a red cloth,
showing, as they said, that it was a female.
The men who carried the body first dipped
it into the water, and then placed it on a
pile of wood and brush, and set fire to it.
Each of the other two piles of wood had a
body on it, and both were being burned.
Passing through the city to Clark's Hotel,
where we were stopping, we had plenty of
evidence that Benares sustained its reputa
tion of being the most filthy city in India.
The Hindoo temples were especially dirty,
though some of them had gilded domes, and
one, where there was a sacred cow, was the
most filthy of them all.

88 Around the World.
A Vienna friend asked me if I would not
like to call on the Maharajah of Benares, he
being the ruler of the province, and behind
his throne being the Governor-General of
India. I said yes, and we sent our cards to
the palace and asked an interview. An offi
cer called, I suppose to look us over, and
after asking some questions said that His
Highness would be pleased to see us at one
o'clock, and at that hour the same officer
called again, and we went to the palace in a
carriage, and were at once shown up to the
second story, where we were met at the door
by the Maharajah, a young man thirty years
old and very fine looking. He spoke Eng
lish, and shook hands and welcomed us very
politely. He was dressed in brown velvet
breeches, coat of yellow silk covered with
silver stars, cap of the same, and gold-
embroidered shoes ; and was smoking an
immense pipe with a stem twenty feet long.
He led the way to an interior hall, splen
didly furnished in Oriental style, and showed
us to a seat. We had a conversation of
about half an hour, during which I took
occasion to tell him something of our
country, and invited him to come to New
York. He said he would be very glad to see

Benares. 89
America, and thanking us for calling, .said he
was sorry we could not stay some time in
his dominions. He then shook hands and
said good-by, directing an officer to send
us books about his province. Nothing could
have been more polite and kind than his
attentions to us. I think it proper to say
that my republican pulse did not beat any
quicker on seeing such a magnificent palace
and potentate, though I never saw the like
or read of such scenes except in the "Ara
bian Nights."
In the afternoon the party took another
drive around the city, and while the others
were examining an extensive embroidery
factory, I sat in the carriage in the market
place, and was much entertained by various
aspects of Oriental life.
Once a little prince came along, mounted
on a splendid horse, led by a man dressed in
red robes and with a red turban on his
head. The little lad was dressed in robes
embroidered with gold, and altogether the
scene was one not to be witnessed anywhere
except in this country, or at the theatre.
, We drove to an ancient city some distance
off, and saw several old palaces ; passed
through great groves of mango trees and

90

Around the World.

plantations of beans, peas, wheat, rice, etc.
Natives, beggars, and children in great num
bers crowded around our carriages. We
met a regiment of native cavalry with white
officers and a fine band of native musicians.

CHAPTER XIX.
LUCKNOW.
Lucknow, Jan. 13, 1890.
E arrived here at twelve
last night, after a tedious
ridebyrail,andlwasupatseven this morning, and
have been all day seeing
the wonders of the city.
Since a visit to the field on which the
battle of Waterloo was fought, I have never
spent a day of such absorbing interest as
this, for here Lawrence, with eighteen
hundred men, held the fort against fifty
thousand rebels for six months, and up
the road we saw came Sir Colin Campbell
and Havelock's army of relief. The build
ings are riddled with balls, and we saw
where Lawrence fell and the room where he
died, July 4, 1S57. Nothing could be more
thrilling than to hear many incidents of the
siege related in an admirable manner by a
native guide.

92 Around the World.
We spent some hours in wandering about
the building and ground held by the Eng
lish, and especially examined the big can
nons, in front of which five hundred rebels
were blown away and killed.
We went to a fine Mohammedan mosque,
one of the minarets of which was covered
with gold, and would make an architectural
sensation if placed in any city in Europe or
America. In the afternoon we took another ride and
saw a walled enclosure of twenty acres or
so, where Havelock and his Highlanders
made a breach in the high wall, shot two
thousand rebels in four hours, and buried
them on the spot.
We stopped at various mosques and pub
lic buildings, and reached the hotel at 5 P.M.
It is a fearfully dirty place, and the sun
of India, here as elsewhere, is intensely hot,
but the evenings are quite cool. I saw
many elephants and camels in the streets
to-day, though horses and bullocks are gen
erally used, and fine carriages drawn by
horses are a common sight.
We have seen Lucknow pretty thor
oughly, though one might spend a week
here to advantage, especially in visiting the

Lucknow.

93

museum, where there are ancient and mod
ern curiosities of the highest interest, and
the mosques, which are exceedingly beauti
ful, in great contrast to the filthy Hindoo
temples. One especially reminded me of
St. Mark's at Venice.

CHAPTER XX.
CAWNPORE.
Cawnpore, Jan. 14, 1890.
T ten this morning we ar
rived here, and have seen
all the places where such
frightful massacres took
place during the Sepoy
rebelhon of 1S57. Mr.
Lee, who now keeps a hotel here, acted as
our guide, and pointed out the various lo
calities. He was a non-commissioned offi
cer, and accompanied General Havelock's
army, which arrived two days after the mas
sacre, and inflicted upon the rebels the ter
rible retribution of fastening several hundred
of them in front of the big cannon and
blowing them into pieces.
Mr. Lee pointed out the exact spot where
these executions took place, and showed
how the poor wretches were fastened to the
mouths of the cannon. It will be remem
bered that General Wheeler, commanding
the British troops, after defending the fort
for weeks against a great army of rebels,
was induced to surrender under promise of

Cawnpore. 95
protection from Nana Sahib, who collected
the prisoners on the banks of the Ganges
and had them massacred. Only four es
caped. General Wheeler was seventy-two
years of age, married to a native woman,
and had by her seven children. He be
lieved that Nana Sahib would keep faith
with him, but he and all his officers were
collected on some steps leading down to the
water of the Ganges, and at a signal from
Nana, they were all shot down and killed.
One of General Wheeler's daughters commit
ted suicide by jumping into a well, and an
other married a native and is now alive here.
When the rebellion was conquered Nana
Sahib could not be found, but Mr. Henry
Ballantine, now United States Consul at
Bombay, states that the monster escaped to
one of the countries in the north part of India
anddied thereof cholera. Murphy, one of the
men who escaped in a boat, had a singular
fate. After the rebellion he was made custo
dian of the public buildings here ; but one day
he killed a native and was obliged to leave
for China, and has never been heard of since.
Like many other places in India, Cawn
pore is fearfully dusty, the hotel very poor,
and one is glad to get away.

CHAPTER XXI.
AGRA.
Agra, Jan. 17, 1890.
E left Cawnpore at five
o'clock on the morning of
the 15th. The train was
delayed, and I wandered
about the chilly depot
and caught a bad cold.
We were several hours on the train looking
out upon the Oriental scenery, the people,
and the wild and domestic animals near by.
At a distance we saw elephants, camels,
droves of small donkeys, big black goats, and
long-legged pigs, flocks of paroquets and
green parrots, now and then a deer or ante
lope, and the usual remarkable trees and
flowers. I arrived here well fagged out, but a good
night's rest made me all right again, and I
have put in two days of hard work, which I
regard as among the most remarkable of
my life.

The Tdj-Mahal. 97
We saw many magnificent palaces and
mosques, the description of which would
alone fill a large book. I have space only
to refer to the Taj-Mahal, which has been
regarded by all who have seen it for the
last two hundred years as the most remark
able building of its kind ever erected, and
one of the wonders of the world.
Built by the Emperor Shah Jahan as a
tomb for his wife, it is of pure white marble,
186 feet square, the centre dome being 50
feet in diameter by 80 feet high.
At the four corners stand four towers,
each 137 feet high. The architect came
from Venice, and his name was Geronimo
Verrone. On the front gateway is the date, 1648,
marking the completion of the building,
which was twenty years building, and cost
ten millions of dollars, nothing being paid
to the twenty thousand workmen who were
said to have been employed in its construc
tion, except an allowance of corn daily, and
even this was carefully curtailed by rapacious
officers, causing frightful mortality among
the men. Jewellers were brought from
Italy, and they inserted in the marble walls,
both inside and out, in the shape of vases
7

98 Around the World.
and flowers, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and
other precious stones. The more valuable
ones were stolen, but since the English
have had possession they have inserted arti
ficial ones, and we could see what a mag
nificent show it must have been.
The remains of the emperor were placed in
a tomb by the side of those of his beloved
wife. Each tomb had precious stones in
serted in the marble, and on the top of one
I saw a place where a ruby two inches in
diameter was said to have been taken out.
Ordinary stones, such as the cornelian and
amethyst, were still there. We lingered
about the beautiful building for many hours,
admiring it from every point of view. My
friend, Mr. Jackson, sang a little song under
the great dome, which echoed and re
echoed, producing a remarkable effect.
I have been so much impressed with the
marvellous beauty of the Taj that I have
purchased an alabaster model of it, and
having packed it carefully, hope to get it
home safely. On the opposite side of the
river from the Taj we were shown the
foundation of a building which the emperor
intended to erect for his own tomb, and to
connect the two by a bridge of solid silver

The Tdj-Mahal. 99
twelve hundred feet long, but the tale they
told us was that the emperor's son shut his
father up in a prison palate for several years,
and there he died at ninety-four years of
age. The emperor, knowing that he was about
to die, asked to be taken to a marble sum
mer-house, from which he could see the
Taj. They carried him there, and on the
spot where we stood he took a last look at
the beautiful building, and died. I know
no more touching tale in all history, and it
being well told on the spot by one of the
guides, was very impressive.
This city, like most others we have seen
in India, is very dirty, and we are put to
many trials and discomforts, especially in
eating, for we cannot get what we want, the
hotels being very indifferent from an Amer
ican point of view.

CHAPTER XXII.
DELHL
Delhi, Jan. 21, i8go.
'^ ESTERDAY at noon we
left Agra, passing over
the river by a fine iron
bridge, from which we
had another view of the
beautiful Taj, which was
lovely beyond expression. We had an Eng-.
lish compartment car to ourselves, and were
very comfortable. Highly cultivated fields
and frequent great barren plains, with now
and then an elephant, were to be seen, and
once a long caravan of camels. Monkeys
were in the woods, and flocks of parrots
flying about, and often the beautiful pea
cocks were perched on the fences or wan
dering about the fields.
It will be remembered that the Hindoos
consider all animal and bird life sacred, and
never kill them, and consequently we see
them everywhere.
We passed on at the rate of about twenty

Delhi. ICI
miles an hour, having forty-three carriages
and over a thousand passengers, mostly na
tives, and stopped at a station at i P.M. for
lunch. The stations in India are all large,
this one being more than a thousand feet
long, and there were collected in it more
than a thousand pilgrims bound for the
sacred Ganges with their bags and bedding.
I went among them accompanied by the
native guide, and saw that many of them
carried painted poles, from the top of each
of which was suspended a bag containing
the ashes and bones of some relative, which
they had brought from their far-off homes,
and were taking to the Ganges to be thrown
into the (to them) sacred river.
I looked at a group of handsomely
dressed women. Among them was a bride,
who had a profusion of silver ornaments in
her nose and ears, and on her arms and
toes. My appearance among this party
seemed to entertain them very much, judg
ing by their looks and their chattering.
We passed through great fields of the
castor-oil plant, cotton, and mustard, and
at 9 P.M. rolled into the big station here,
and were soon at the hotel enjoying the
comforts of a wood fire.

I02 Around the World.
This is the most dreadful climate I know
of — eighty degrees to ninety degrees during
the day, and down to sixty degrees at night.
The hotels have rooms only on the ground
floor, which is paved with stone, and any
thing but comfortable.
This city has great historic interest, hav
ing been ravaged many times by conquerors,
beginning with Tamerlane, who burned it,
and killed a hundred thousand of its inhab
itants — men, women, and children.
Taking a drive, I saw monkeys running
along the walls, and was everywhere beset
by a great lot of beggars, dancing girls, and
merchants wanting to sell shawls, jewelry,
and many other articles.
We have been here several days, con
stantly driving about and seeing magnifi
cent palaces, tombs, and mosques. In one
of the great marble palaces was a large hall
in which was erected the famous Peacock
Throne in the year 1638.
The following account of it is given by
Tavernier, who, in the seventeenth century,
travelled extensively in the East, and saw
all the wonders that he relates :
" The largest throne, which is set up in the
hall of the first court, is in form like one of

The Peacock Throne. 103
our field-beds, six feet long and four broad.
The cushion at the back is round like a
bolster ; the cushions on the sides are flat.
I counted about a hundred and eight pale
rubies in collets about this throne, the least
whereof weighed a hundred carats ; but
there are some that weigh two hundred.
Emeralds I counted about one hundred and
sixty, that weighed threescore, some thirty,
carats. The under part of the canopy is all
embroidered with pearls and diamonds, with
a fringe of pearls round about. Upon the
top of the canopy, which is made like an
arch with four panes, stands a peacock with
his tail spread, consisting all of sapphires
and other proper colored stones ; the body
is of beaten gold enchased with several jew
els, and a great ruby upon his breast at
which hangs a pearl that weighs fifty carats.
On each side of the peacock stand two
nosegays as high as the bird, consisting of
several sorts of flowers, all of beaten gold
enamelled. When the king seats himself
upon the throne, there is a transparent jewel
with a diamond appendant, of eighty or
ninety carats, encompassed with rubies and
emeralds, so hung that it is always in his
eye. The twelve pillars also that uphold

I04 Around the World.
the canopy are set with rows of fair pearl,
round and of an excellent water, that weigh
from six to ten carats apiece. At the dis
tance of four feet, upon each side of the
throne, are placed two parasols or umbrellas,
the handles whereof are about eight feet
high, covered with diamonds ; the parasols
themselves are of crimson velvet, embroid
ered and stringed with pearls.
" This is the famous throne which Tamer
lane began and Shah Jahan finished, which
is really reported to have cost a hundred
and sixty million five hundred thousand
livres of our money [thirty-two million one
hundred thousand dollars]."
The famous and beautiful Cashmere shawls
are made in the province north of here, and
are mostly sold in this city, where there are
many storehouses filled with them. It is said
that it takes the labor of two men a year to
make one of these shawls of moderate size.
Wishing to purchase, I went to one of the
largest establishments accompanied by three
friends. The merchant showed me a book
in which were written recommendations of
his goods by Gen. U. S. Grant and Col.
Fred. Grant, and among them was one writ
ten in German, which was translated by

Cashmere Shawls. io5
my friend from Vienna as follows : " I
have bought shawls of this man, and think I
got them cheap, but do not off er him a third
of what he asks." We spent much time
looking at a great variety of the shawls, and
finally, aided by the excellent taste of my
friends, Mr. Norris of Baltimore, Mr. Kolish
of Vienna, and Mr. Jackson of Manchester,
I selected two, which I thought very beau
tiful, and asked the price. The merchant
consulted two or three of his sharp, bright-
eyed clerks in their own language and said :
" I have not sold a shawl to your party ; I
sell you very, very cheap ; you may have
those beautiful shawls for 1,400 rupees."
Having in mind the German gentleman's
remarks, I said : " No ; the price is absurd ;
let us go," and we started out. Then the
merchant followed saying: " Don't go ; make
me an offer;" and I said: "I will give you
400 rupees for both shawls." Greatly to my
astonishment he replied : " Take them ; I will
send to your hotel." Fearing a substitution
or some other trick, I said : " No ; hand them
to me, if you please. Here are 100 rupees,
and you may come to the hotel and get the
balance." To this he agreed and the pur
chase was made.

CHAPTER XXIII.

JEYPORE.
Jeypore, Jan. 25, 1890.
UR party arrived here on
the 23d instant, and per
mission was obtained from
the Rajah, who has the
reputation of being the
most enlightened ruler in
India, to visit his palaces and grounds ; and
very magnificent we found them. The pal
ace was very large, and fitted up in a costly
manner. We were admitted everywhere,
except to a big building occupied by his
three hundred wives. We then went to see
fifty elephants in different places, each tied
by the legs ; and then we visited the tiger
cages, a dozen of them, each containing a
savage fellow. We then went to the stables
and saw four hundred blooded horses from
all parts of the world. The custodian in
charge of the stable said that if I wanted to
hunt tigers the Rajah would be pleased to

Jeypore. 107
loan me a horse, and I would be sure to find
a tiger from two to six miles from the city
wall. The Rajah was good enough to loan
us four of his biggest elephants, and in the
afternoon we sent them outside the city
wall with a photographer. We followed in
a carriage and had photographs taken, and
afterwards mounted the elephants, four on
each, and rode two miles farther to a coun
try palace of the Rajah, and to the ruins of
an ancient city, where were formerly great
castles, reminding one of Germany and the
Rhine. We spent an hour looking over the
castle, which is very costly and splendid.
On the road and around the palace we were
amused by the antics of numerous monkeys
and the beauty of flocks of peacocks running
wild all over, the screaming of parrots, etc.
We then mounted our elephants to return.
The one I was on looked as large as Jumbo.
Meanwhile my friend, Mr. Jackson of Man
chester, who is a great walker and dislikes
the motion of the elephant, had ten minutes
before started to walk to the carriages, a
distance of two miles. He had nearly
reached them when he met a lady and gen
tleman, who proved to be an English doctor
and his wife. They bowed and said : " Good-

io8 Around the World.
day," but had not passed on ten paces be
fore they came running back. The doctor
took hold of Jackson and said : " Look on
top of the wall ! " (a stone wall laid in
cement, five feet high.) "And so you went
within two yards of yonder tiger ! " Jack
son looked and saw the big. head and paws
of a large tiger resting on top of the wall,
and then he ran away toward the carriages.
Meanwhile, Mr. Kolish, who was on the
elephant ahead, had seen the tiger in the
field, and shouted to me to look at him, but
he went away very quickly, and I saw noth
ing but a movement in the brush. All this
took place before we knew Mr. Jackson had
seen the beast. There were six natives with
each elephant, and they were much excited
and said the tiger must be very hungry, as
one seldom came so near the city, and he
would most likely get a kid or a man before
morning. I have been more interested in this city,
where I have seen only native faces, than in
any other in India, and would be glad to
spend some weeks here.
The main avenues are one hundred feet
wide, lighted by gas, and having water sup
plied by pumping-works. They are lined

The Hotel at Jeypore. 109
with beautiful public and private buildings,
and crowded with traffic, numerous caravans
of camels coming and going loaded with
stone, cotton bales, and all kinds of goods.
This morning we went to the Museum, a
large and splendid edifice erected by the
present Rajah. As an architectural triumph
I know of nothing superior anywhere. It
is of white and colored marble from base to
dome ; and the contents no adjectives can
describe. Lovely ! charming ! splendid !
Costly goods from Oriental countries, owned
and arranged by the Rajah Mahara Swai
Madhosingh. Over the arched entrance to the exhibi
tion rooms sentences were painted, taken
from native books ; for instance :
" How much soever one may study science,
If you do not act right, you are igfnorant."
" By contentment make me rich.
For without that there is no wealth. "
" Rectitude is the means of pleasing God :
I never saw any one lost on a straight road."
We are comfortably lodged in a hotel
called a bungalow, which is owned by the
Rajah and conducted by a native. I was

IIO Around the World.
amused at one of the printed notices in the
dining-room, which was : " If visitors are
not satisfied with the food or cooking, they
can deduct from the bill what they consider
fair ; " an excellent notice, which I recom
mend for adoption by hotels elsewhere. In
another hotel I saw the following : " Guests
are requested not to strike the servants ; "
and " Guests wishing ice are requested to
give a day's notice, and name how much
they require."
I walked up the street to look at a hunt
ing tiger with hoods over his eyes, and tied
to a tree, and while leaning up against a
bungalow gate, a fine-looking young In
dian, mounted on a splendid Arabian horse,
interviewed me, much as an American news
paper man would have done : Where did I
come from ? What was my profession ?
and What was I in Jeypore for?
I told him something of our country, the
number of people, the miles of railroads and
telegraph wires, the size of New York and
Chicago — in all of which he was much inter
ested. I then interviewed him and asked
him who he was, and he replied that he was
Colonel Fyaz, commander of a regiment of
native troops. He could talk the English,

An fnterview.

Ill

Hindoo, Persian, and Oude languages, was
delighted to see an American, and asked
me where I learned to speak English. He
seemed surprised to learn that it was the
language of the United States of America.
After a long conversation he asked for
my card and invited me to call at his quar
ters, saying that he would be glad to show
me about the city.

CHAPTER XXIV.
BOMBAY.

Bombay, Jan. 27, 1890.
EAVING delightful Jey
pore by the evening train,
we were two nights and
one day on the road. It
was very cold after dark,
so much so that I had to
get up in the middle of the night and put
on my overcoat and shoes.
The train went at a speed of twenty-five
miles an hour, stopping at stations for meals,
which were quite good, but the native wait
ers were of the worst, and all the arrange
ments very primitive compared with the
splendid vestibule trains running on the Cen
tral Railroad from New York to Chicago.
We obtained accommodations at a first-
rate hotel, where I rested for a day, being
much fatigued by the trip from Jeypore, but
towards night I took a walk along a beauti
ful boulevard, and through fine parks for

The " Towers 0/ Silence." 113
several miles, and was much interested in
looking at the strange and wonderful scenes.
The highly colored dresses of the native
women, the silver ornaments covering their
persons ; the immense public and private
palaces, very costly and beautiful — all made
a great impression on me, and I think that
Bombay is one of the finest cities in the
world. There are fifty thousand Parsees in this
city, with some of whom I became ac
quainted, and found them to be very intel
ligent, and was told that they were very
successful merchants, many of them mil
lionaires. They originally came from Per
sia, where they were agriculturists, but here
they are merchants. These Parsees are all
worshippers of the sun.
One day we went to their burial-place,
called the " Towers of Silence," situated in
a handsomely laid-out park. There were
three round towers about one hundred feet
in diameter, ahd fifty feet high, without any
tops, and around the edges perched some
hundreds of black vultures. We were told
by the attendant that the dead bodies were
placed on slats inside these towers and
then devoured by the vultures.

114 Around the World.
We saw the dreadful creatures all flying
over to one of the towers, and discovered
that a body was being carried there by at
tendants dressed in white. We were not
permitted to go near the towers, but were
shown by an attendant a working model of
one of them, and exactly how the dead
bodies were disposed of.
Towards evening a band played in the
beautiful park fronting the hotel, and I saw
sights probably not surpassed by any other
place on earth.
The ^lite were out, both native and for
eign, in full force, as a public meeting was
being held ina beautiful building erected by
a wealthy Parsee merchant, in front of which
was his marble statue.
The building is called the Bombay Uni
versity, and an officer, whose coat was cov
ered with decorations, was delivering an
address on higher education. Officers and
soldiers mounted on fine horses patrolled
the streets ; companies of Sepoys dressed in
native costumes marched along ; many white
children cared for by native nurses, splen
didly dressed native women, and beautiful
English ladies and children passed to and
fro ; carriages and fine horses went by on the

Street Scenes. 1 1 5
road, making a scene of wonderful beauty
and attraction. The city, with its many
parks, covers a large space, and is elegant
and clean, containing more than a million of
people, but, strange to say of such an im
portant commercial centre, there has been
no United States Consul here for six months,
and I had in consequence much trouble in
shipping home some boxes.
I called upon Mr. Henry Ballantine,' who
had delivered a delightful lecture on Cash
mere before the Geographical Society at
New York last winter, and he was good
enough to give me such information as
enabled me to get my goods off.
' Since the above was written Mr. Ballantine has been
appointed U. S. Consul to Bombay.

CHAPTER XXV.
ON BOARD "THE KHEDIVE."
Steamer " Khedive," Red Sea, near Suez,
Feb. io, 1890.
HE morning of the 31st of
January was very hot at
Bombay, as usual, and I
only went out to make a
few calls and some pur.
chases, and at 3 P.M. we
went on a tender to this steamer, passing
two large English troop-ships just arrived,
and several ironclad men-of-war, and looked
at the great forts on the land, where we had
before seen two 120-ton Armstrong guns
with piles of conical balls, each ball weigh
ing half a ton.
The harbor is large and fine, and there
were at anchor many large steamers and
sailing craft, but I did not see anywhere the
flag of our country.
On Sunday there was the usual parade of
officers, sailors, and servants, 149 in all, most
of the sailors being Lascars, dressed in white
gowns, red turbans, and sashes, presenting a
clean and picturesque appearance.

The Red Sea. 117
The vessel is a fine one, wonderfully clean,
and with all modern improvements, includ
ing electric lights.
The doctor is a young and handsome
man, and spends most of his time with the
young lady passengers, who seem to require
much medical advice. I notice that on most
of the ships where I have been the doctors
are very attentive to the ladies.
One night I slept very soundly in the
upper berth, but in the morning found
my room flooded from the open port-holes,
sofa, floor, and baggage wet, but no great
harm done, my clothing being hung up. In
the morning I knew the sailors were wash
ing the deck, for the water leaked through
and struck my face, but one learns not to
mind such little matters when travelling,
and I turned over for another sleep.
It is rather hot on the steamer, thermom
eter eighty degrees, but the punkas are going
in the cabin, and we are all quite comfortable.
We came from Bombay on the steamer
Assam, arrived at Aden on the 6th, and were
transferred to this ship, and unfortunately
there was not time for us to go ashore, but I
think we lost nothing, as it was a poor-look-
ingplace, nothing but rocks and fortifications.

1x8 Around the World.
We now see for the first time the coast
of Arabia, big hills, evidently of volcanic
formation, and long reaches of white sand.
The native boats crowded around the ship,
offering ostrich feathers and various things
for sale ; boys were diving for silver pieces
thrown into the water, and generally suc
ceeded in getting them.
The run of four days up the historic Red
Sea has been full of interest. One day the
air was full of locusts flying over from
Arabia to Africa, many of them falling on
the deck. They looked like small birds
when flying, but were not larger than katy
dids, and brown in color.
On Sunday the service was read by a
clergyman who preached an excellent ser
mon. He read from the Bible the account
of the passage of the Red Sea at a place
not far from where we were, and the ser
mon was about it and Egypt.
The seats at the long tables in the dining-
room were filled, nearly all the passengers
being in attendance. The weather contin
ues perfect, the water smooth and looking
very blue. Captain Loggin, of this ship,
says that on his last trip he had a lady pas
senger who was ninety-one years of age,

The Red Sea. 1 1 9
and on a former trip another who was
ninety-two, both of them very jolly and
comfortable, and going from England to
visit their relatives in India.
The captain said that on another of his
trips, two ladies, strangers to each other,
were put in one stateroom in which were
two wash-basins. One basin being a little
larger than the other, each lady wanted
the larger one, and appealed to him. He
gave the matter due consideration, and
finally informed them that the elder should
have it. As we approach the upper end of
the sea it narrows to about three miles, and
we have good views of both the Arabian
and the African coasts, long stretches of
sand on both shores, and then mountains of
volcanic origin, but not a sign of a town or
of any inhabitants. Early one morning the
captain gave notice that we were nearing the
Sinai range of mountains, and he showed
on his chart all the points of interest, and
directly pointed out the historic mountain
itself, situated beyond a range which was
near the sea, and looming up so that we
could see it with the naked eye, and very
clearly with the glass. The mountain ap
peared to be about forty miles off.

CHAPTER XXVI.
THROUGH THE SUEZ CANAL.
Cairo, Feb. 12, i8go.
iT 9 P.M., on the loth inst.
the big steamer Khedive
anchored at Suez, the
Red Sea entrance to the
canal ; and I was much in
terested in watching the
engineers making steam connections to a
large dynamo on deck. The connections
were made by copper pipes and flange
joints. In half an hour they were ready.
Captain Loggin gave the signal, and the
stately vessel moved on at the rate of six
miles an hour towards Port Said, on the
Mediterranean. The canal is 87 miles long,
and when completed was 72 feet wide and
26 feet deep, but two years ago it was
decided to enlarge it to 120 feet wide,
27 feet 8 inches deep. They are now at
work on the enlargement, as I saw four im
mense dredgers lying in the canal near Suez,
and was informed that thousands of men

The Suez Canal. 121
could be seen during the day at work all
along the route.
I stationed myself on the upper deck at
9.30 P.M., and remained there all night with
the kind and pleasant captain for my only
companion, only leaving when we were near
ing Ismailia at six in the morning ; and
I was amply rewarded by sights such as I
never expect to see again.
The five-thousand-candle-power electric
light, with a Mangin reflector, spread the
rays out fanlike, and illuminated the canal
and vicinity for half a mile ahead and sev
eral hundred feet wide, so that the smallest
thing on the land or in the water could be
seen. The electric rays illuminated the
water so that the white-painted buoys, of
which you could often see three or four at a
time, seemed to be lighted from the inside,
as if made of translucent golden porcelain,
and suspended in mid-air. The white sand
on the banks of the canal might be readily
mistaken for snow, and was in one place
piled up fifty feet high, for a long distance,
and the general effect was singularly weird,
as the great steamer moved majestically on.
When we reached the small Bitter Water
Lake, the buoys were on stands fifteen feet

122 Around the World.
high, out of water, looking as if they were
made of silver, the pear-shaped domes like
illuminated mosques. Once, where there
was an opening in the sand-bank, the light
illuminated a hill some distance off, and it
seemed as if I were looking upon a great
city, with its mosques, minarets, churches,
and buildings all being destroyed by fire.
Several times, when approaching huge
dredging machines, the electric light seemed
to transform them into beautiful flower-
boats on which fairies might be dancing.
As we entered the large Bitter Lake, the
electric lights were put out and the vessel,
guided by a pilot, increased her speed.
The tide rises seven feet at Suez, and
forces the water up the canal to the Bitter
Lakes, which operate like a safety valve,
distributing the water and returning it
when the tide recedes.
The Mediterranean being a tideless sea,
the water runs naturally through the canal
to the Bitter Lakes. Most of the commerce
of the East passes through the canal, instead
of around the Cape of Good Hope, as for
merly. In 1887 there passed through the
canal 3,137 vessels, of which 2,330 were Brit
ish, and only three American. I know of no
greater illustration of the fallibility of hu-

The Suez Canal. 123
man judgment than that the English op
posed the building of this canal. Lord Pal
merston said it could not be built, and if
done, would never pay, or be any good to
commerce ; and now seventy-five per cent, of
the tonnage passing through it is British, and
it is of immense importance to them, both
politically and in a business way. But for
the persistent energy of M. de Lesseps, it is
safe to say the canal would not have been
built for many years, if ever.
The average passages through the canal
from the Mediterranean to the Red Sea have
been eighteen hours. Captain Loggin having
made the shortest in fifteen hours ; but when
the enlargement is completed, so that ves
sels may make an uninterrupted passage
each way, the time may be reduced to
twelve hours. The stock of the company
has paid as high as twenty-one per cent.,
and I was informed that our steamer, the
Khedive, had several hundred cases of silk
on board, and that she would pay about
seven thousand dollars transit charges.
Every steamer passing through the canal
now makes use of the electric light ; those
not having a dynamo on board hire one at
Port Said or Suez for ten pounds sterling
per trip, including two men to run it.

CHAPTER XXVII.
CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS.
Cairo, Feb. 17, 1890.
'N the 13th at i P.M. we
took the train at Ismailia,
had a first-class carriage
and agreeable company.
For half the distance we
passed through a sandy
desert, but when we came to the station
Tel-el-Kebir, near which Wolseley routed
the Egyptian army, the country improved.
Great fields of sugar-cane, lentils, grain, and
grass were to be seen ; men were ploughing,
and others gathering the crops, assisted by
camels, bullocks, and donkeys. In one in
stance, a camel was harnessed to a bullock
drawing a plough. The people were every
where industrious, and the fields looked in
splendid condition. Very often we saw
large flocks of sheep and goats, and soon
we came in sight of a long arched bridge
spanning^ the Nile. After crossing this we
entered a fine depot at Cairo, where there

Cairo. 125
was the usual clamor of hackmen, but our
conductor rescued us from these land sharks,
and we were soon at the Royal Hotel, where
I found my room, which had been engaged,
and directly a package of letters and papers
were handed to me, which were very wel
come. It is as cool here as March in New York,
and I have on my regular winter clothing.
The Red Sea voyage and the weather here
have toned me up, and I feel in first-rate
health. This is one of three fine hotels in
Cairo, and is first-class in every respect —
French cooking, splendid bread and butter,
and excellent beef and mutton, which have,
no doubt, helped to put me in good condi
tion, after the horrors of our campaign of
the India cookery.
Mr. Norris sent a telegram to Baltimore
last evening at 5.30, and had an answer at
11.30 P.M., so that we are all now in touch
of home.
We have been this afternoon through the
bazaars to the great Citadel and the grand
Mosque, where I unfortunately stumbled
over a prostrate man praying, with his face
towards Mecca, and there was a little row,
but I apologized and passed on.

126 Around the World.
Yesterday we started out at nine and did
not get back to the hotel until four. We
went first to the famous museum three miles
distant, over the river, and saw an immense
collection of antiquities, illustrating Egyp
tian history for six thousand years, including
the mummies of the great kings, Rameses
I., IL, and III., and their wives and some of
their children. Their remains are not pretty
to look at, and it seemed to me to be sacri
legious to expose them for show in a museum
at one franc admission. The museum build
ing is very beautiful, having been erected by
the Khedive for a palace, the same Khedive
who was deposed by the English, and is now
in exile in Italy.
One room had marble pillars three feet in
diameter and thirty feet high, and the whole
building is fitted up in the highest style of
modern French art.
We entered carriages and drove over a
fine, shaded road to the great Pyramids,
where we arrived at noon. I at once an
nounced my intention of going to the top
of the big Pyramid, as did also Mr. Kolish
of Vienna and Miss Roe of Cincinnati, the
others of the party declining.
The old Arab sheik who has charge here

The Pyramids. 127
appointed three stalwart Egyptians to assist
mfe, and two others followed with jugs of
water; with one man holding each hand,
and another to push, we commenced the
ascent. The stones were from two to two
and a half feet high, making the tallest kind
of stairs, but the men were careful and good
at pulling and pushing, so I made rapid
progress. They stopped twice to rest, and then I
found what violent exertions I had been
making, for I was completely blown, and my
mouth and throat as dry as if I had not had
a drink for a month.
We rested at each stopping-place a few
minutes, and rinsing my mouth with water
refreshed me ; then we rushed on, reaching
the top in seventeen minutes. Such had
been the violence of the exertion that I
could hardly speak for fifteen minutes after
wards. Mr. Kolish being a stout young fel
low got along first-rate, and Miss Roe being
strong, cool, and fearless came up serenely.
From the top the view towards the Nile was
of unsurpassed beauty ; long stretches of
country covered with green as far as the eye
could reach. Farther back was a boundless
plain, but all sand and desolation. I in-

128 Around the World.
tended to recite here Napoleon the First's
address, " Soldiers of the grand army, forty
centuries are looking down upon you," but
I was so much engaged getting my breath
that I forgot all about it.
After stopping on top for half an hour,
we commenced going down, one man hold
ing each of my hands and another holding a
rope which was around under my arms. We
got along very nicely with only one stop ;
indeed, I think I could have come down
perfectly well without help from any one.
There are 250 steps on the big Pyramid,
and it is 480 feet high. At one o'clock we
had a capital lunch, and then started for the
Statue of Memnon, only a third of a mile
from the Pyramids. Some camels were
kneeling ready to take us, and I mounted
one. The beast squealed and got up first
on his front legs and then on his hind ones,
pitching me back and forth, but I hung on
and got along very nicely.
The immense statue, partly covered with
sand, did not impress me much, but a tomb
which I entered near by was a wonder. I
measured one of the big stones in the wall
and found it was five feet square and seven
teen feet long.

Egyptian Scenes. 129
We mounted our camels again and Miss
Roe and I had a race across the yielding
sand, the Cincinnati young lady coming out
ahead. The beggars crowded around and annoyed
the ladies so much that I spoke to the old
sheik, and he went at them with a whip and
scattered them very quickly.
We returned to Cairo the same way we
went, observing on the road large numbers
of camels, bullocks, and donkeys, and once I
counted seven camels loaded with fresh hay.
Thus ended one of the wonder days of my
hfe. Yesterday morning we left here on a
steamer, and went up the swift-running wat
ers of the Nile, passing numerous palaces,
tombs, and all kinds of Oriental buildings,
dozens of water-wheels run by bullocks, and
once a steam-pump and boiler, all raising
water for irrigation.
We had a stalwart and fancy-dressed dra
goman, but he was of little use. We took
along a nice lunch and picnicked on the
boat, reaching the dock in three hours, where
we found about a hundred donkeys and
their attendants, yelling, screaming, and
pushing. After much trouble we each
9

130 Around the World.
mounted one of the ugly beasts, and started
for the ancient city of Memphis, seven miles
away. There was a boy with a stick to each
donkey, and every time he struck, my beast
would kick and nearly unseat me.
A young lady from Boston, Miss Potter,
was put in my charge, and several times we
had splendid trots and gallops on the sandy
roads and plains.
We met strings of camels and donkeys on
the way in front, and our cavalcade of ex
cursionists, stretched along the sandy road,
presented a remarkable appearance.
Half-way, we stopped to rest at a place
where an immense marble statue of a king
was lying in the sand. It was thirty feet
long, and five feet across the face.
The donkey ridden by Miss Potter proved
so bad that she changed him for another
here, and we galloped over the sandy plain
unto Memphis, our destination. There were
half a dozen big pyramids in sight, and the
whole country was covered with ruins. We
were on a high hill, and looked down upon
the Delta of the Nile and its cultivated
fields, a scene of rare beauty, on one side,
and, on the other, vast sandy plains and
deserts.

Tombs of the Sacred Bulls. 131
We walked to the entrance of the " Tombs
of the Sacred Bulls." The passage-ways
and tombs are cut out of solid l-ock and are
all under ground. These passage-ways are
a mile or two long, and thirty feet in diam
eter. They strongly reminded me of the
sewers in Paris.
From these passages, were dug out of
solid rock twelve rooms, each containing the
statue of a " Sacred Bull," each one carved
out of the rock, highly polished, and cov
ered with writing executed in a beautiful
manner. Each of us carried a candle, and it was
very hot, so much so that one of the young
men came near fainting and had to hurry
out. It was a curious and weird scene, fifty
or more people, each with a candle, wander
ing about in the dark. After looking at the
tombs, we all returned to the upper air, and
went to the tomb of a great king near by,
which was under ground, and contained
several large rooms, all made of highly pol
ished white marble, covered with writing
and carvings — processions of men and ani
mals, beautifully executed, and in the best
state of preservation.
Mounted on the donkeys once more, men

132 Around the World.
and boys surrounded us, offering all kinds of
things for sale. One young fellow showed
me the skeleton of a lady's hand, and offered
to sell it for a shilling, but I declined. It
was a rough ride back to the river, the don
keys being very uncomfortable creatures to
ride. Once the one ridden by Miss Potter
greeted some of his friends in a field, and
brayed with tremendous energy.
We were very much fatigued and glad to
get to the boat.
The return voyage was very pleasant, and
we reached Cairo at 5.30 P.M.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

JAFFA.
Jaffa, Palestine, Feb. 21, 1890.
UR party left Cairo on the
19th, going by rail one hun
dred and fifty miles to
Alexandria, and leaving
there at 10 A.M. the fol
lowing day, arrived here
by steamer this morning.
The landing from the steamer was made
in boats, and was rather rough, the sea run
ning high and there being no breakwater.
This is said to be the oldest town in the
world, and is certainly the dirtiest one I
ever saw. We drove all about, going first
to the house of Simon the Tanner, situated
near the sea. We saw the tank in which
he used to tan his leather, and went on the
top of the house, where he and his family
used to sleep. We then went to the house
of Dorcas, situated in a grove of orange and
lemon trees, and I bowed my head to her
memory, for she not only did good to the

134 Around the World.
poor herself, but her example has caused
countless milhons of Christian women, in
all the ages since, to dothe same, very often
in associations named after her.
The oranges raised in and about the town
are very large and fine, and much exported.
Great crowds of Turks, camels, and donkeys
were in the market-places.

CHAPTER XXIX.
RAMLEH. Reikhard's Hotel, Ramleh,
Feb. 21, 1890.
E left Jaffa at 3 P.M., in
as fine a landau as you
would see in Hyde Park,
with three horses and a
dragoman, and drove
along a splendid macadam
road, meeting and constantly passing camels,
donkeys, and strange-looking Turks. Soon
we came to the Plains of Sharon, perfectly
level, and stretching off for ten or twenty
miles each way, covered with red, blue, and
yellow flowers. They are said to be the
" roses of Sharon " mentioned in the Scrip
tures, but really are a species of poppy. At a
distance we saw the high hills and mountains
which surround Jerusalem. The scenes were
of the most thrilling interest, for Solomon
often passed this way, and over the road
were transported the cedars of Lebanon of
which the great temple was built. It was

136 Around the World.
a cool and bracing day, and we had a de
lightful trip, arriving at this excellent hotel
at 5 P.M., and at once walked to the ruins
of a mosque built in 1099 A.D., by Saladin.
The tower, an elegant structure, is still
standing. We went to the top of this
tower, and looked upon a lovely landscape.
As far as the eye could see, the plains were
covered with almond-trees in full blossom,
and other trees and shrubs peculiar to the
country, the big cactus plants being used
for fences. As we returned we passed a
tower, from the top of which a priest was
crying aloud for the faithful to pray. Every
few miles was a guard-house, and horsemen
were often met on the road who acted as
police.

CHAPTER XXX.

JERUSALEM.

•T»

Jerusalem, Feb. 23, 1890.
HE rest overnight at Ram
leh, at the hotel there,
kept by a German, for
merly of Buffalo, N. Y.,
Mf proved very refreshing,
and in the morning we
took our fine carriage, and driving rapidly
over the excellent road, reached here at 5
P.M., having had a very enjoyable trip.
Coming near the Jaffa Gate our driver ran
against a heavy-loaded camel, and caused
him to tumble almost into our carriage, but
he fell partly under it, and the wheels ran
over one of his legs and broke it. The
owner of the camel, a big Turk, when he
saw the mischief, sat down by the side of
the road and wept. The carriage stopped
at the Jaffa Gate, and we walked to the new
hotel, a large, handsome building of stone,
all the halls being paved with marble. It

138 Around the World.
was so very cold that I had a fire made in
a small stove in my room. Here, as in all
the countries I have lately visited, fuel is
very scarce and dear; that used here was
the roots of trees.
At last the dream of a lifetime has been
realized, and I have been on the top of the
Mount of Olives, to me the most interesting
spot on earth. It had been raining, making
the slippery stones of the streets very dis
agreeable. Accompanied by an excellent
guide, I walked from the Jaffa to the
Golden Gate, along the street of " Solomon
and' David," and mounted a small, good-
natured donkey, who carefully took me
over a rough road to the top of the Mount.
Thence I looked upon the scenes so often
described in the Bible, rendered more im
pressive to me from the thought that on
the very spot where I was must have stood
David and Solomon, Christ, St. Peter, Paul,
and the Apostles ! They must have looked
down in their time, as I did, upon the wind
ing Jordan, the Dead Sea, Bethlehem, and
the mountains and valleys beyond. The
other view was towards the compact walled
city. It seemed to me that I could see the
great army of Titus encamped on the hills

BetMle^m. 139
beyond the Jaffa Qgie, pifeparing to assault
it with their battdeltt^ams. The scene
was a very impressive one. After admiring
the beautiful church lately erected by the
Russians, on top of the Mount, I passed
down by another and rougher path, and
rode entirely around the city, the guide
carefully explaining everything as we rode
along. The Mosque of Omar, built on the
spot where Solomon's temple stood, is a
splendid edifice, the outside being made of
various-colored tiles, and the inside of mo
saic work, with the most exquisite stained-
glass windows.
At length we got away from this almost
enchanted spot, and went through the mar
kets and bazaars, which do not differ much
from those of other Oriental cities : narrow,
dirty streets, small stores, and crowds of
long-bearded old men, exactly as you see
represented in all pictures ; women, black,
brown, and white, with their faces modestly
covered, but barelegged, and nothing on
their feet except sandals ; even these were
often left off.
We took a carriage and went to Bethle
hem, five miles from Jerusalem, and at
tended religious services held in various

I40

Around the World.

churches by the Russians, Catholics, and
Copts. Everything we saw was of great
interest, the view from the hill superb, and
the people and scenes on the way wonder
ful to behold.

CHAfirER XXXI.
JAFFA.
Jaffa, Feb. 26, 1890.
j AVING spent two days
in Jerusalem industriously
sight-seeing, one noon
day I took a seat in the
fine carriage provided, my
only companion being a
dragoman, and we were soon bowling along
over the fine road to Jaffa.
The engineers are surveying for a railroad
from Jaffa to Jerusalem, and the people ex
pect that it will be completed in a year.
The journey may then be made in one hour.
The moon came up at 6 P. M. , and as we passed
along the road through the mountains, I saw
sights and scenery not to be soon forgotten.
I felt safe, for every few miles there was a
stone watch-tower, occupied by guards, and
often we met them on the road, mounted
and armed with guns. It was a ride of thrill
ing interest, for over this route have passed

142 Around the World.
many times the heroes of old, and on yon
der field of Sharon, now smiling with flow
ers, was once fought a great battle. The
carriage rushed on, and half-way we changed
horses. Being very cold, I walked ahead
for a couple of miles, meeting caravans
and single camels, and numerous donkeys
laden with wood, and men coming from the
fields with their oxen and their ploughs.
The black-eyed natives eyed me curiously,
but said nothing. Soon the carriage over
took me, and I was so well warmed up by
my walk that I felt comfortable for the re
mainder of the trip.
We were detained for two days at Jaffa
on account of the rough sea, which pre
vented steamers from landing, but being in a
comfortable hotel, I was content, and spent
the time looking about the ancient city.
A young Arab offered to sell me a tame
hyena for twenty francs. It was nine months
old, and as playful as a young dog. At last
the sea became smooth, and I entered one of
the heavy boats, and three strong Turkish
boatmen put me over the rough waters in
good style on board the Russian steamer
Poccir from Alexandria bound for Odessa.

CHAPTER XXXII.

ON BOARD THE " POCCIR."
Steamer " Poccir," March 4, 1890.
HE steward gave me a very
poor state-room below,
with another man, but I
handed him a fee, and in
the morning he put me in
a beautiful cabin on deck,
a large room, Hned with handsome pol
ished wood, with two large looking-glasses,
and fit for a prince or an American to oc
cupy. I could not find a man on the ship
who spoke a word of English, but I rather
enjoyed the novel situation, and got along
very nicely.
On the 2Sth instant, in the morning, I
came on deck, and found that we had arrived
at Beyrout, and after partaking of a, glass of
tea and some bread, I took a boat and went
ashore, and there engaged an Arab guide.
The first call we made was on Mr. Bissenger,
our Consul, formerly from New York, with
whom I had a pleasant talk. We then went

144 Around the World.
along the streets, lined on both sides with
fine stores occupied by English and other
foreign merchants, and then through the
bazaars of the native town. We inspected
a fine palace, splendidly furnished, owned
by a Russian nobleman, who has not been
here for seven years, but who keeps it open,
with servants in attendance, ready to be
occupied by himself and family at any time.
We drove out to a handsome public gar
den, and came back over the famous Da
mascus road built by the French — a fine
macadam roadway, over which are run dili
gences to Damascus, eighty miles away, but
now it is blocked by heavy snow in the
mountains, and consequently two hundred
travellers are detained in Beyrout. One
gentleman tried to get through on horse
back, but the snow was too deep, and he
was obliged to return. The bay is a beauti
ful one, as seen from the city, a range of
mountains looming up around it, the lower
ones being covered with cedars, and the
higher, including Mount Lebanon, capped
with snow.
It will be remembered that Solomon ob
tained the cedars from these mountains with
which he built the temple at Jerusalem. I

Napoli. 145
had some anxiety about my passport, as it
had not been endorsed by the Turkish Con
sul at Cairo, but a fee put into the hands of
the customs officer was sufficient, and he
perrriitted me to depart without even look
ing at the document. We got aboard the
steamer at noon, and after a nice lunch, in
cluding excellent red and white Odessa wine,
the whistle blew, and we were off. Dur
ing the afternoon we stopped at Napoli,
which is a well-built town, extending along
the shore a mile or two, with the snow-
covered mountains for background. Here
a dozen passengers got off, mostly Turks.
There was a heavy sea, and the small boats
could only be brought up to within six feet
of the ship's ladder, so the passengers wish
ing to disembark had to jump. The steam-
engines were kept in constant use from 4
P.M. until midnight, taking on board from
lighters three thousand large boxes of
oranges for Odessa.
The steamer and the lighters pitched
about, and it was a sight to see how skil
fully everything was managed.
The cooking on this ship is exceUent,
though some of the food is new to me, and
I look with some surprise to see the Rus-
9

146 Around the World.
sians drink a small glass of raw brandy
before each meal.
We arrived at the ancient and important
city of Smyrna yesterday at 10 A.M., and
went ashore with Mr. Zucker, Swiss Consul
to Chili, who speaks English, and very kindly
assisted me in making known my wants.
We employed a guide and went through
the city, which is a large one, containing
two hundred thousand people.
The foreign streets and stores are very
fine, but those occupied by Jews, Turks,
Armenians, and Greeks are very dirty and
disagreeable. After a couple of hours' walking about in
the heat and dirt, we came back to the
street running along the bay, which is a
couple of miles long, well paved and clean.
A dozen large steamers were at the docks,
and much business going on. We saw num
bers of fine buildings, hotels, and cafds.
Mr. Zucker and I called on the United
States Consul, Mr. Emmet, and I was agree
ably surprised to find that he was an old
acquaintance, formerly in the Comptroller's
office of New York.
At 4 P.M. we went on board, and were soon
off. The steamer had been invaded by a

The Dardanelles. 147
dozen young Englishmen, and on interview
ing them I found that they belonged to a
foot-ball club of Constantinople, and had
been to Smyrna playing against a club there.
They were a jolly set of young fellows, and
made things lively on the ship for the re
mainder of the trip.
The wind blew hard all day. It was cold
and disagreeable, and we saw little of the
land, though we were passing through the
famous Dardanelles, the Hellespont of the
Greeks, past the site of the ancient city of
Troy, of which Homer sung, and I would
have given much for a bright day or a moon
light night so that I could have seen the
exact place where " Leander swam the
Hellespont." But this was not to be, so I
turned in and slept until morning, and when I
came on deck found that we were at anchor
in the world-renowned and beautiful harbor
of Constantinople.

CHAPTER XXXIII.
CONSTANTINOPLE.
Constantinople, March 9, 1890.
HE harbor appears to be
about a mile wide and two
miles long, surrounded
by steep hills, on which
the city is built, largely in
terraces, with many great
palaces, mosques, and public buildings, the
Mosque of St. Sophia being very prominent.
I took a guide at the ship and went ashore
in his boat. I had been informed of the an
noyances by custom-house officials, to which
travellers ate often obliged to submit on
their arrival in the Turkish dominions, and
was agreeably surprised at the ease with
which I was permitted to go on shore. The
guide shov/ed my passport to an officer,
who looked it over and returned it, and we
went to another wharf, where my trunk and
bag had been landed. There were three
venerable officers here, who each took a franc

Constantinople. 149
and passed the baggage without opening
anything, or saying a word.
A big Turk took my trunk and bag on his
back, and we went up an ill-paved and dirty
street, a quarter of a mile long, and almost
as hard to climb as the Pyramids of Egypt.
This led to a nice and well-paved avenue,
lined with fine shops, on which was the Hotel
Pesth, where we found comfortable quarters.
I had a cup of tea, and then sallied out to
see the city. There are few carriages to be
seen in the streets, but great numbers of
large and homeless yellow dogs, all of the
same shaggy breed, apparently well fed and
happy and certainly good-natured. There
were twelve of these dogs on the walk oppo
site the hotel, and I counted 164 on one of
the main streets, about a mile long. We re
marked that they were about as thick all
over the city, and there must be as many as
fifty thousand altogether. We walked down
a fine street to the water, and along the
shore for a mile or two, and again admired
the beautiful bay, which poets have raved
about for centuries, and which most people
think the finest in all the world.
We went as far as one of the big palaces
belonging to the Sultan, which faces the

150 Around the World.
water. It is twelve hundred feet long, and
has two grand entrances built of white mar
ble. There we took a circuit around the
hills, and saw many great buildings, bar
racks, schools, etc. Once we saw a regiment
of horsemen drilling in a large square. The
men were tall and fine-looking, and the
horses excellent. There were two fire alarms
while we were out, and it was enough to
make a New York horse laugh to see the
arrangements for putting them out. The
engine, so called, was an ordinary force-
pump with two handles, placed on a plat
form and carried by a dozen men, who were
followed by fifty more, in a leisurely way.
There are no water-works, and many large
and very old wooden buildings, so one can
readily see that there must be destructive
fires here sometimes,
I have been here a week, and have seen
many mosques, including the immense and
famous St. Sophia, which must have been
in days of old very magnificent, but it has
been largely robbed of its treasures, and is
now quite dilapidated.
The weather here is very bad, cold, rainy,
and blustering, much as we often have it in
March. There was a heavy fall of snow two

The Bosphorus and the Black Sea. 1 5 1
weeks ago, and the streets are wet, slip
pery, and disagreeable. On the 6th instant
we made the famous trip up the Bosphorus
to the Black Sea, which has been so often
written about. There were four of us, Mr.
Zucker, myself, and two friends, all sedate,
over sixty years of age, and representing
a combined weight of nearly eight hundred
pounds. We left the hotel at 9 A.M., walked a
short distance through the middle of the
muddy streets to a cable road, which we
took, and in ten minutes were in a busy
street near the water. We then crossed a
fine iron bridge, and went on board a side-
wheel steamer. Looking across the water
we could see the great hospital buildings
where Florence Nightingale immortalized
her name by her care of wounded sol
diers during the Crimean war. Steam was
up, and soon we were away, going along
near the shore of the European side and
making about ten landings. On the shore
buildings have been erected, sometimes a
hundred or more together, so that, practi
cally speaking, the ten miles to the Black
Sea is a continuation of the city. Palaces
are to be seen all along, several of them be-

152 Around the World.
longing to the Sultan, and one very large
and splendid one occupied by the Persian
ambassador. The ranges of hills near the water are
largely cultivated, and even now are cov
ered with green grass, the whole presenting
a panorama of great beauty.
We stopped at noon, went on shore, and
had an excellent lunch at a German restau
rant ; then took another boat as far as the
Black Sea, and returned along the shore of
Asia, stopping at numerous places to take
on passengers and mail, and in an hour
reached the city.
There was a lot of women on board, with
their faces more or less covered. Once, as
the steamer was passing a house, I saw a
very pretty sight. A couple of little girls
made signals to our captain, and a larger
one held up, for him to see, a small white
puppy. The white-headed old sailor smiled
a grim smile, and the swift steamer swept
on. One day I took a guide and went to see
the famous native bazaars, where, under one
roof, were several hundred small stores, the
passage-ways narrow, wet, and ill-paved,
such as you find everywhere in the East,

The Sultan. 153
filled with everything native and foreign one
ever thought of. An Armenian pulled me
into his store and showed me elegant stuffs,
sofa pillows, silks, shawls, and gold embroid
ery, but having no use for such things I
came away without purchasing.
Another day I called on Mr. Sweeney, our
Consul, and later upon Mr. Solomon Hirsch,
U. S. Minister,. who kindly gave me all the
information I wanted about Constantinople.
Returning through the lower part of the
city, where there was a large crowd of peo
ple, I saw a dog-fight. A strange black dog
had invaded this part of the city, and a
dozen yellow ones went for him fiercely,
causing an immense row and confusion,
until a Turk appeared with a big rope,
thrashed them all, and sent them yelping
away. One morning we took a carriage, and went
to see the Sultan make his weekly trip to a
mosque. We drove some three miles to the
front of the mosque through the mud and
snow. This mosque is a new and beautiful one,
and soon after we arrived there was a great
gathering of horse and foot soldiers.
The horsemen were fine-looking, and rode

154 Around the World.
splendid horses. They formed several deep
in front of our carriage, but I got on a high
fence, so as to have a good view, and stood
there in the snow and rain for an hour,
waiting for his Highness. At length there
came a band of music, a troop of cavalry,
and many decorated officers, followed by an
open carriage containing the Sultan, a dark,
black-bearded, middle-aged Turk, wearing
the national red fez. He passed slowly on
to his devotions, and I was asked if I would
wait and see him return. I said most de
cidedly not, and returned with my friends
to the hotel, and to a late but excellent
breakfast at 2 P.M.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

CONCLUSION.

N the afternoon of the loth
of March I took a walk
down to the great bridge,
and had a last and linger
ing look at the splendid
harbor, the Golden Horn,
and the Bosphorus. At 6 P.M. I took a
carriage and a guide to the depot at Stam
boul, from which leaves, twice a week, the
Oriental Express for Vienna and Paris.
After an examination of my passport and
baggage, and considerable delay, I got on
the train, composed exclusively of Mann
boudoir cars, lighted by gas, including din
ing-car ; and everything first-class, quite as
good as anything in America, except the
vestibule trains from New York to Chicago.
The road-bed is so perfectly constructed
that the cars run easier than on any railroad
I was ever on. You could read with com
fort, and some of the passengers were writ-

156 Around the World.
ing. My journey from Constantinople was
a solitary one, our party having separated,
and other friends being left behind. Pass
ing through Bulgaria and Servia, little was
to be seen except vast plains, sometimes
cultivated, but often not ; mud houses with
thatched roofs, and oxen ploughing in the
fields. We then went up and over big
mountains, covered with snow.
The second morning when I arose we
were in Hungary, and the scene had changed
to every appearance of business and activity.
Four oxen, attached to a plough or to a
four-wheel wagon, were to be seen all along
the route. There were vast cultivated plains,
and beyond them towns, villages, and houses,
all looking in good shape. We arrived at
Budapest after two nights and one day on
the train. I spent two days in Budapest,
and found it one of the most beautiful
cities in Europe — handsome, well-paved,
wide, clean streets, splendid hotels, stores,
and public and private buildings. This city
is the capital of Hungary ; the King, who
is also Emperor of Austria, resides here for
a portion of the year.
In one of my trips about the city, I saw
him driving out in his royal coach. Leaving

Vienna. 1 5 7
Budapest at half-past two one afternoon,
after a fine journey of five hours I arrived
in Vienna, and was accommodated at the
Imperial Hotel, which was excellent in
every way.
A week was passed in Vienna. It is one of
the most beautiful cities in the world, many
think even finer than Paris, and I thoroughly
enjoyed the comforts of civilization again,
all the more, no doubt, from having been
partly deprived of them for so many months,
as recorded in the previous pages. I called
on Colonel Grant, the United States Minis
ter, who was very polite and kind. I dined
with him and his charming family, and at
tended a diplomatic reception given by
Mrs. Grant. I also dined with the distin
guished Dr. Kolish and his family, some of
whom spoke excellent English, and passed
a very agreeable evening with them.
Passing on to Berlin, I there saw a
grand review given by the Emperor to the
Prince of Wales ; and thence went to Dres
den, in which delightful city several days
were spent, often visiting the large and
splendid gallery of paintings, and lingering
in front of that wonderful work of art, the
" Sistine Madonna." One evening I went to

158 Around the World.
the Grand Opera, and one afternoon drove
around the city. Two American young
ladies were kind enough to accompany me,
and to point out the various objects of
interest. We met the King of Saxony,
driving out in a showy royal carriage.
Hamburg came next, one of the most
beautiful and enterprising cities in Europe,
and then Bremen, where I boarded the
North German Lloyds steamer Eider.
Everything about this splendid ship was
so perfect that one could not suggest an im
provement ; the table being of extraordinary
excellence. We made a quick passage, and
in eight days I landed in New York, April
8, 1890, having been absent exactly seven
months. The distance travelled was 27,816
miles : 1 8,786 by water, 9,030 by land.

DISTANCES TRAVELLED:
Recorded from San Francisco to Cairo by Miss Roe, of
Cincinnati. MILES
From New York to San Francisco  3,000
San Francisco to Yokohama  4,724
Yokohama to Tokio and retum  36
Nikko, Lake Chiu, and return  253
Hankom Pass and retum  115^
Kamakura and Enoshima  80
Yokohama to Kobe  346
Kobe to Kioto and Osaka  152
Kobe via Nagasaki to Hong-Kong  1,456
Hong-Kong to Canton and retum  180
Hong-Kong to Colombo, Ceylon  3. 096
N. EUiya and Kandy  270^
Colombo to Madras and Calcutta  1,401
Calcutta to Darjeeling and retum  740
Calcutta to Benares  475
Benares to Lucknow  202
Lucknow to Cawnpore  46
Cawnpore to Agra  160
Agra to Delhi  144
Delhi to Jeypore  lOi
Jeypore to Bombay  699
Bombay to Aden  1,661
Aden to Ism^lia  1,352
Ismalflia to Cairo  84
Memphis and return  50
Pyramids and retum  16
Cairo to Alexandria  150
Alexandria to Jaffa  250
Jaffa to Jerusalem and return  68
Jerusalem to Bethlehem and return  10
Jaffa to Constantinople  1,000
Constantinople to Vienna  1,300
Vienna to Dresden  34°
Dresden to Berlin  100
Berhn to Hamburg  168
Hamburg to Bremerhaven  90
Bremerhaven to New York  3.5°°
27,816

Dtri

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