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'YAiM^wmmmMiiiY'
Bought with the income
of the
Henry W. Scott, Jr, Fund

ROUND THE WORLD

DOCTORS' ORDERS.

THE DOME, YOSEMITE VALLEY, CALIFORNIA
7>525 ft- above sea level.

Round the World

Doctors' Orders.

BEING A NARRATIVE OF
A YEAR'S TRA VEL IN JAPAN, CEYLON, A USTRALIA,
CHINA, NEW ZEALAND, CANADA, THE
UNITED STATES, ETC., ETC.

By JOHN DALE, J. P.

LONDON :
ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERNOSTER ROW.

PREFACE.
IN placing this book containing the history of a
year's travels round the world before the public,
the writer is following the advice and counsel of
many friends. Whether they are wise or not in
recommending such a proceeding is one of those
things which the future only can show. The
manuscript was written without any idea of
publication, and did duty as a series of circular
letters to fireside friends at home. The work
pretends to no literary merit ; it is merely a
description of the many scenes and incidents which,
during the journey, presented themselves to the
writer's notice. It is hoped that those who may
be about to take a like tour will find this work a
helping hand stretched out to assist them over the
difficulties which always attend a journey such as
is described, and which are apt to try the temper
and spoil all true enjoyment, especially in a country
not visited before. At the same time, it is trusted
that the work will be found interesting and perhaps
instructive to the general reader.

CONTENTS.
CHAP. PAGE
I. VOYAGE TO CEYLON  3
II. CEYLON ... . . .21
III. VOYAGE TO VICTORIA . .... 29
IV. VICTORIA ... . .... 37
V. TASMANIA .... -5'
VI. NEW ZEALAND  61
VII. NEW ZEALAND— NORTH ISLAND— MAORI COUNTRY . 8 1
VIII. NEW SOUTH WALES  107
IX. VOYAGE TO CHINA  121
X. CHINA  149
XI. JAPAN  l8l
XII. CALIFORNIA  249
XIII. ALASKA  273
XIV. CANADA . . ... ... 297

ILLUSTRATIONS.

SINGALESE DWELLING
SINGALESE BULLOCK WAGGON
STURT STREET, BALLARAT, VICTORIA
LAUNCESTON 
FERN TREE BOWER.
THE REMARKABLES
DUNEDIN 
SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAINS
CROSSING A RIVER
WELLINGTON
MAORI MEN AND WOMEN
A GEYSER
A MAORI PAH, OR VILLAGE .
OHINEMUTU AND LAKE ROTORUA .
A MAORI CHIEF
A MAORI WHARRY, OR HOUSE
SYDNEY TOWN HALL AND CENTENNIAL
NATIVES, NEW SOUTH WALES
NATIVES, MELVILL ISLAND
QUEENSLAND ABORIGINE
NATIVES 
NATIVES AND CANOE, MINDORO ISLAND
PALANQUIN OR SEDAN CHAIR
QUEEN'S ROAD, HONG KONG .
A CHINESE TEMPLE
A CHINESE EXECUTION .

HALL

PAGE 23 25
41 5257
646573758283
90
9294 97
100 ¦13
116
132 134137 H5
151 155161164

Vill

I Illustrations.

PAGE

A CHINESE COURT OF JUSTICE ....

I65

A JOST PROCESSION ...

. I69

FEMALE PUNISHMENT 

• 171

CHINESE FISHING . . ...

• 177

A " MUSMEE

I84

DRESSING HAIR . . . . .

. 205

1 ' DIABUTSU " OR GOD 

. 208

ENTRANCE TO THE SHRINE OF A SHOGUN

. 211

JAPANESE CHILDREN . . ...

• 213

SACRED BRIDGE, NIKKO 

. 217

TORII OR ENTRANCE TO A TEMPLE 

. 219

PART OF A TEMPLE . . 

222

A JAPANESE FAN DANCER 

228

JAPANESE KITCHEN .... . .

237

SAN FRANCISCO , 

253

GLACIER POINT ... . .

263

MARIPOSA PARK TREE . . ....

265

TOTEM POLES .

278

JUNEAU, ALASKA

28l'

ICEBERG  . .

288

AN INDIAN'S HOUSE 

29I

VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA ... . . .

299

VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA .... . .

3°3

INDIANS  . . . .

316

WINNIPEG, CANADA ... 

3'7

VOYAGE TO CEYLON.

CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE TO CEYLON.
ATOVEMBER bth, 1 891.— We left Charing Cross Hotel
at 10 in the morning for Fenchurch Street Station,
reaching it with some difficulty on account of the " blocks "
in the streets. These were, however, nothing in comparison
with the crowds at the station. There was a regular crush
and push of passengers, with about double the number of
friends seeing them off. A Bank Holiday was nothing to
it. Two special trains were dispatched with about three
thousand passengers, friends, and baggage, all mixed up in
a manner most irritating to the mind and wearying to the
body. Even as I am now writing, the next day, many
people have not yet found their " petit baggage," and no
wonder. At Tilbury there were several " tenders " waiting to take
the passengers to the ship Ophir, the scene on which was
like a fair. People got on board and lost their friends, not
to find them again, for this ship beats the " Maze " at
Hampton Court. After half an hour, friends were warned
for the shore; then commenced the process of "tears
and tearing away,'' and long adieus. Those in the ship, as

Voyage to Ceylon.

passengers, were summoned to a sumptuous lunch in the
splendid saloon, about twenty-five feet in height, decorated
in a most elegant and artistic style. When the repast was
finished we found the good ship Ophir had gone a consider
able distance down the river, we being unaware a start
had been made.
We arranged our cabin, and at 6.30 had a good and
well-cooked dinner. The sea the first night was quite
smooth, but on board all sorts of things were going on—
workmen hammering, stewards cleaning, passengers snoring
— one like a traction-engine — others walking about. All this
could be plainly heard in the absence of the noise of the
screw, for the fore end of the ship is as free from engine
and screw noise as a sailing vessel.
November Jtk. — A fine morning, smooth sea, very cold.
We are going down the Channel to Plymouth, where we
expect to take on board many more passengers. Letters
have just been delivered, but how they came, or where
from, I do not know, but so it is.
People still cannot find their way about, and it is quite
common to hear the question asked, " Will you tell me the
way to No. — ? " and luggage hunting is also going on with
vigour, but with little success. I am writing in the children's
dining-room for want of a better place, because everybody
is anticipating Plymouth, and busy with correspondence on
every available table.
On arriving at Plymouth Harbour a steam tender brought
letters and a large quantity of provisions, including about a
thousand gallons of milk. Many small boats came along
side with all kinds of things for sale, from deck-chairs to
ginger ale— the latter being credited as a sure preventative
of sea-sickness.
A notice was posted on board, " Will sail at 4 o'clock,

Voyage to Ceylon.

sharp," consequently only two or three passengers went
ashore. At 4 o'clock the steam tender left, and there was every
preparation made for starting, even to the " Hurrah ! " which,
to our minds, is something like a " prize-fighter's smile."
We waited on deck to see the last of old England. The
weather continued bitterly cold and the atmosphere quite
hazy, so, leaving old England to take care of itself, we
sought the comfort of "afternoon tea," when we learnt
that the owners and engine makers had just decided to
overhaul the engines and machinery, and that we might
remain where we were many hours !
At 10 o'clock, these gentlemen, having satisfied their
minds, departed, leaving us to do the same. Our first
step was to get rid of the wind, and keep out the cold
by closing the ventilators. The sea was smooth, and the
night quiet, for the demons of unrest had departed, and
the noise had ceased.
November 8th. — A grand morning, with bright sunshine,
but still cold, sea smooth. At 6 A.M. we passed Ushant,
and were in the " Bay," the ship sailing well, and the
passengers, for the most part, looking cheerful. Being
Sunday, there was a chance of learning something of the
religious tendencies of this large number of people all
thrown together. A Church of England service was held
in the grand saloon, some sort of a dissenting one in the
second-class saloon, and a Salvation Army one on the
steerage deck, fore and aft, which appeared most vigorous,
for there was a whole regiment, both of men and women,
going to fight the " Evil One," in Australia. We have on
board also the veiled nuns from a convent, and several
Roman Catholic priests. The weather at sunset looked
threatening, and, later on, the wind began to blow, working

Voyage to Ceylon.

up a " sea " ; and yet although it was Sunday night the
ship went in for " pitch and toss," which, in S , is
an offence under the Vagrant Act, so we shut our eyes
and went to sleep.
November gth.— Lord Mayor's Day, a wet morning, a
slight sea on, the ship sailing splendidly. The wind is warm
and balmy as we pass off the coast of Portugal, having
made a good run. The Captain, with a frugal mind, has
now gone in for saving coals, and is working the ship with
one set of engines, which has reduced the speed to twelve
miles an hour.
Ships, like other institutions, are subject to strikes.
On board is a band of professors of music, engaged to
play and amuse the people. They resolved themselves
into a Band of Hope, hoping to get something not bargained
for, and so " struck." However, " all's well that ends well,"
and the affair ended in an amicable arrangement this after
noon, and the artistes " struck " up a tune. Being a fine
night the band again played, and the passengers pro
menaded, the electric light being very effective.
November lotk, Tuesday. — A fine morning, with bright
sunshine, but a heavy swell on. We are still going half
speed. We passed St. Vincent Head, and were in
sight of land for some hours. The sunshine and warmth
brought out the passengers, and great-coats and rugs were
consigned to the cabins, making every one look much
happier. The ship is a wonder, but ought not to have been sent
to sea for another month, the arrangements being as yet
far from perfect, causing much discomfort. This morning,
for instance, a pipe leaked somewhere near our cabin,
resulting in a flooded floor ; such a mess and disturbance.
Then again, the hot-water apparatus for the baths is not

Voyage to Ceylon.

in working order ; but, like the music, we live in hopes of
better times.
November nth, Wednesday. — A grand warm morning,
with bright sunshine. About seven we passed Tangiers,
and sailed into "Gib." — the mighty Gib. — about 8.30.
Although this was our third visit, the impression of grandeur
was none the less, and its busy port was as full of ships
as ever. After breakfast we went ashore, and felt quite at
home in the streets. Of course the markets were visited
to see the fruit, vegetables, eggs, etc., and the Moorish
market, with all kinds of live animals, birds, and vegetables
unknown to us.
We took a carriage and drove over the neutral ground,
then entered Spain, where we had to pass through the
Customs House, and then enter the little town of San Felipe,
where the bull fights take place, which are much patronised
by the English from Gibraltar. These exhibitions take
place on Sundays only. We returned to Gib., and then
drove to Europa Point, through the gardens, which were
profuse in all kinds of tropical flowers and plants. The
tamarisk trees and palms, with undergrowth of prickly
pears, gave one the idea of being much farther from home.
Everything looked fresh, for there had been a heavy rain
the previous Sunday, six and a half inches having fallen in
twenty-four hours.
We returned to the Ophir in time for dinner, and expected
to sail at once, but found a notice posted that we should
sail at 10 the next morning. On inquiry, it transpired
that the ship was again in the hands of workpeople, and
the engines, including the boilers, which were empty, were
undergoing another " overhaul " also. After dinner water
barges came alongside and commenced pumping, which
operation was continued all the night.

Voyage to Ceylon.

November \zth, Thursday. — A splendid morning with
fine sunrise, giving much colour to Gib., with its brown
rocks and varied vegetation, affording a temptation to an
artist to ply his pencil, but for a notice on the ship that
" any person sketching, drawing, or photographing is liable
to be imprisoned for three months."
The sailing notice is posted : " Will sail at i P.M." No
one seems to object, for it gives time to get the " house in
order " ; much confusion being still our lot, and the poor
stewards have a hard time, because some folk complain, and
say they have paid for order and attention, and object to the
inconvenience. We learnt " self-help," and helped ourselves.
Soon after breakfast it began to rain, so few people
went ashore, most of them being engaged in arranging
cabins, etc. ; i o'clock came, and then it was announced we
should sail at 6 o'clock. At 7 we sailed, and saw the last
of British soil for some time. It was a glorious night, with
a cloudless sky and bright moonlight.
November 15th, Friday.— bright sunshine, warm as
summer, the ship sailing well, the band playing on deck,
where all sorts of amusements are going on. In the after
noon all boxes were brought on deck, and it was amusing
to see the eager dips made for hidden treasures, or wants
which had arisen. Every one seems to have found a new
life, and music of all sorts is to be heard from different
parts of the ship. We have had a really idle day basking
in the sun, and are going to bed tired.
November 14th, Saturday. —Another splendid day, the
sun rising out of the sea. The passengers, dressed in light
summer costumes, are walking about without head covers.
The sea is smooth, and the ship so steady as to render
locomotion as easy as strolling in the street.
There has been an auction sale of tickets for the run of

Voyage to Ceylon.

the ship, and this will now take place each day. Tickets
in numbers of fifties, say from 350 to 400, are sold to
any one for one shilling each, and afterwards resold by
auction for whatever can be got. Anything above the
first price is divided between the purchaser and the pool.
This is repeated three times, and takes about an hour. At
12.30 the run comes out. To-day it was 367 miles in 24
hours, and 365 tickets won over £5.
To-night a " full-dress ball " is announced, and, from the
discussion going on, there promises to be a good muster.
A great improvement in the arrangements is gradually
taking place, and they will soon be perfect.
November i$th, Sunday. — The weather continues every
thing that could be wished, and the ship sails well. We
have had the pleasure of again sailing into the Bay of
Naples, where we cast anchor at 2.30. There was the
greatest excitement. Hundreds of boats surround the
ship with musicians, and divers who dive for and after
coppers thrown into the water. All kinds of things were
offered for sale.
The letters have just come, and every one is anxious to
get his own — a regular scramble.
Sailing orders : " Remain here until Tuesday." We did
not go ashore, there being plenty of amusement in the
ship, where we remained on deck till very late. The full
moon made Naples look charming.
The second batch of letters and papers arrived about ten.
Some had to be answered by this mail, hence a late night.
Nove7nber \6th, Monday. — A fine morning. Breakfast
at 8 o'clock, which enabled us to land and start early.
Some went to Capri, others to the Museum and Pompeii.
We — myself and wife— seemed to be the only two who
were bent upon going to Baias. After some trouble we

10 Voyage to Ceylon.
found a good horse and a nice carriage, with a driver
who could speak English a little, and which added much
to our pleasure. He was a most respectable man, a rara
avis in Naples. Our route was along the Chiaia, then.
to Virgil's tomb, over the Hill of Posilipo to Pozzuoli,.
Salfatara Amphitheatre, Temple of Serapis, Caligula's
Bridge, Armstrong's Works, Cicero's Villa, Monte Nurro,.
Lake Fusaro (devoted to the culture of oysters), Castle of
Baias, Temples of Venus, Mercury, Diana, Julius Caesar's
Palace, Nero's Palace, Baths, etc., Sybil's Cave, or Grotto
Cavern, wherein is the river Styx, over which Charon will
ferry you to look into the infernal regions. It is a dreadful
place, curious it is true, but we were glad to get out of it
again. This is on the banks of Lake d'Agnano, which
is perfectly round. It is the mouth of an extinct volcano
over three miles in circumference. We lunched at Fusaro,
and were offered oysters from the lake. After a most
enjoyable day we arrived at our floating hotel just in time
for dinner, well tired. The round we went is about thirty
miles. November 17th, Tuesday. — Another grand day. We did
not go ashore, being tired from our trip yesterday. We had,
however, plenty of amusement on board, for the Ophir
was quite a fair, with numbers of " swell " visitors from
Naples. The amount of bargaining on deck was some
thing wonderful until the order was given to clear the ship,
when the pedlars took to boats, and with long bamboo-
canes, with bags at the ends to receive the money, handed
up various articles. This continued for two hours, during
which much business was done. Then there were musicians,.
flower-sellers, fruit vendors, who accepted a few pence in
exchange for large " baskets " filled with pears, grapes,
apples, and figs ; divers who called out in the loudest tones,

Voyage to Ceylon. 1 1
" Munny, munny, gentlemen ! " which, being thrown to
them in the sea, they dived and brought up ; we estimated
one man had thirty pennies in his mouth besides silver.
" Sorrento puzzle-boxes " had been freely sold during the
day at 8j\ ; over the ship's side we offered 2s. 6d., and just
as we were sailing the purchase was concluded at 3s. A
large number of workmen left us here, and we sailed at
4.30, bidding adieu to Naples with some regret after so
much enjoyment. We passed Capri in an hour, and had
a pleasant evening listening to various adventures. The
moonlight was again very bright, the sea perfectly smooth,
the various amusements on board went on as usual, and
were, we understand, kept up until a late — or early — hour.
Of course we elderly people retired somewhat early.
November i&th, Wednesday. — A most magnificent day, a
cloudless sky, and a smooth blue sea. The sun was very
hot, and compelled retirement to the shade. We passed
through the Straits of Messina about 5 o'clock in the
morning ; Etna was visible at daylight, as also was the
Italian coast.
The ship has sailed well. In the 19^ hours up to 12
o'clock noon we had run 283 miles.
An amusement committee has been formed, and a collec
tion made amounting, in a couple of hours, to over £50.
The auction sale of the run took place as usual, and this
afternoon a cricket match, which proved a great attraction,
as there was some good play. The Captain is a first-rate
bat. A company of acrobats, who are going to perform
in Australia, gave a rehearsal, to keep their muscles in
practice. It was great fun for all the youngsters and
steerage people. This evening there is to be a full-dress
ball, and another on Saturday — a tax on the wardrobes
of the ladies.

12

Voyage to Ceylon.

November igth, Thursday. — Another fine and cloudless
day, with hot sun. We sailed past the island of Crete with
its snow-capped mountains, and had some squalls of cold
wind. When the dinner table was set, one of these squalls
made the ship pitch and toss, transferring the cloth with
etceteras to the floor, resulting in more pieces being picked
up than went down. The table had to be reset with the
" Fiddles," our first experience in this voyage of these
useful appliances.
The cricket and auction sale took place as usual, and
350 won as the number of miles sailed.
The drawing-room amusements have had to be sus
pended, for some of the ladies — owing to various sensations
— have thought it advisable to retire. This afternoon we
had a " fire drill '"' at 4 o'clock. There was much excite
ment, for the men went through a regular training. All
the bulkhead doors were closed, and the ship was divided
into five separate parts for an hour.
November 20th, Friday. — Fine morning, strong wind, and
a rough sea. We have had a bad night with a heavy beam
sea, which has rolled this great mass of a ship like a pill-box,
and prevented most people from sleeping, for it was not
possible to lie still in the berths, and our boxes took short
journeys on their own account. Everything was a little
mixed this morning. Fortunately neither of us was ill,
and both appeared at breakfast. There has been a con
siderable breakage of pots and glasses, and a corresponding
amount of squaring-up.
It has been a fine day with a good breeze, and just
sufficient sea not to be uncomfortable, yet affording
ample excuse for idleness. About 6 o'clock we were
evidently opposite the mouth of the Nile, for the water be
came muddy and discoloured. This continued until about 9,

Voyage to Ceylon. 13

when we sailed into Port Said, and entered the Suez
Canal. Great preparations had been made for coaling.
The carpets were either taken up or covered, and everything
closed. When we stopped opposite the only street it was a most
remarkable sight. Of course the usual small boats and
merchants came alongside, and also six or eight barges on
each side of the ship, containing over a hundred tons of coal
each. At either end of each barge was a large fire to give
light, and on the coals were standing hordes of men, —
Coolies, Arabs, Niggers, and people of all southern nations,
— with bare feet and legs. They wore a kind of cloak,
which they cast off when working. Now all these men
had throats which they used to the fullest extent of their
power in singing, or rather shouting a ditty ; such was the
noise you could not hear people speak. If the gates of
the infernal regions had been opened you could not have
seen a more remarkable sight, or heard a greater confusion
of tongues.
The run was 325 miles. We are now 3,429 miles from
London, and 14 days from the date of sailing.
November 21st, Saturday. — Rose early, and had the
pleasure of seeing a gorgeous sunrise. The barges had
just cast off after giving us 1,500 tons of coal, and a
quantity of fresh water. We started at once, and got
about five miles along the Canal, when we were stopped
at a siding to let two steamers pass. Being a splendid
morning, there was a good opportunity for comprehending
what the Desert of Arabia means. Whichever way you
look the sand meets the horizon, with thousands of birds,
looking like white patches. To the east appears a " mirage,"
as of islands and ships, with an occasional Arab in a
picturesque costume walking by the side of the Canal.

14 Voyage to Ceylon.
We passed a part of the Canal about noon where some
important works were going on. The number of Arabs
with bare legs, and wearing loose coats of blue, red, and
other colours, contrasting with the sombre camels, of which
it was estimated there were seventy or eighty carrying
stones in panniers, was a truly wonderful sight for those
who have never been in the East. Along the side of the
Canal is an iron pipe, which conveys Nile water from
Ismailia to Port Said. We are now drinking Nile water,
which looks grey and thick, and not very tempting.
After a very pleasant day. with the brightest of sun
shine and a refreshing cool breeze, we passed many objects
of interest, such as houseboats, where the French, who are
engaged in many duties here, live. They seem to have one
or two females and a dog, and in the stern a hen-coop.
Also there are the stations, which consist of a nice house
and offices, with a flagstaff on which signals are exhibited.
The fresh-water Canal turns away to the west, and goes
along the Lake of Goshen. We had a splendid sunset,
which gave great colour, and produced fine effects on
the Lake of Timsah. We are now steaming at a slow pace
to Suez, where this will be posted.
The opportunity of seeing everything is great, for the
ship only goes about four miles an hour, and is one of
the largest which has ever passed through the Canal. We
are now sailing by electric light, both sides of the Canal
being perfectly illuminated.
After leaving Ismailia, where we remained only an hour,
the electric projectors were again used, casting a light on
both sides of the Canal.
November 22nd, Sunday. — We arrived at Suez at
3.30 A.M., and left at 4.30 A.M. ; dispatched letters and
two passengers. A splendid early morning, warm, with a

Voyage to Ceylon. 15
cloudless sky. Sailing down the Gulf of Suez, which has
fine mountains both on the Egyptian and Arabian sides,
it was a wonderful picture, with lights on the mountains
and no shades, and sand or murrain at the bases looking
red-hot. At 1 1 we had service according to the Church
of England on the deck, sitting without hats, the congrega
tion in the lightest clothing. The parson reminded us of
our being in view of Mount Sinai, and read a chapter
from Exodus, etc. It was most impressive. As usual,
other services were held in different parts of the ship. In
the evening there was the most wonderful sunset, the
colours being magnificent and extraordinary because the
sky was cloudless. This was quickly followed by the
brightest starlight, there being, no twilight, and the stars
were visible and bright in the horizon like so many
lighthouses. November 23rd, Monday. — We are now in the Red Sea,
with bright, hot sunshine. All the boxes were brought
on deck. Some appeared in very light get ups at the
sports, which took place at 2 o'clock ; there was great
fun, most of the people enjoyed seeing the young folks
exhibiting their powers. About 4 o'clock a most wonder
ful display of lightning commenced, dancing round the
ship almost continually; the stars were bright, and the
illuminations displayed electric snakes running about the
heavens. This continued all night. There was a dance
on deck, the ladies appearing in elegant costumes. Run
of the ship 362 miles.
November 24th, Tuesday. — It is very hot. The lightning
still continues. About noon it began to thunder, but
not in a gentle way. Then tropical rain came down in
sheets, so much so that the ship was put to " dead slow,"
and the siren gave forth its howls and yells to warn any

1 6 Voyage to Ceylon.
approaching ships, as it was impossible to see. About
sunset the weather cleared up after twenty-four hours of
lightning. Run of the ship 355 miles. Life on the Ophir — rise at
6.15, English time about 4 o'clock. Have a sea-bath,
then rest half an hour. Tea served at 7 (don't have any).
Then dress, and, to quote Yorkshire, " have a side up.'' A
walk on deck until breakfast, at 8.30. After breakfast sit
in deck chair for a couple of hours, or wander about talking
to people ; then an hour's work. Lunch at 12.30. Deck
chairs again with " a short sn.ooze." Sports or some sort of
amusement at 2.30 until 4, when the great meal of the day
commences, " afternoon tea," which lasts about an hour.
Another walk, then dress for dinner. Now these meals are
marvels when we consider that most of the things have
been brought from London. The food is good, and there
is plenty of variety, all being well cooked ; but there is
not much to be said for the drink in the form of water.
We took a supply in at Naples, which was fairly good, and
again at Port Said, " the sweet waters of the Nile," which
is brought down in the iron pipes from Ismailia, and
resembles very much suds made with brown soap. Our
cabin bottle looks like a stone one, being quite opaque ;
this makes us appreciate apollinaris and ginger-ale.
November 2$th, Wednesday. — The weather is brighter
this morning and rather hot, over 900 in the shade. We
are fairly in the tropics, but have not yet put on thin
clothing ; at the same time, most people complain of the
heat. After luncheon we came in sight of land, and then
sailed through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, out of the Red
Sea, having a head wind all the way through. The ventila
tion on board was well kept up.
We are now in the Gulf of Arabia, with fine weather and

Voyage to Ceylon. ij

a calm sea. The sports went on as usual this afternoon,
and were great fun.
November 26th, Thursday. — We are sailing down the
Gulf of Arabia, with a strong wind, which keeps the ship
cool. We passed the large island of Tokotra, and the small
ones — The Brothers — all appeared burnt up, without a'
vestige of vegetable life. Amusements as usual. Sailed
321 miles.
November 27th, Friday. — Another splendid day ; very
hot. Amusements as usual, with the additional attraction
of a cricket match between females onboard. Sailed 325
miles. November 28th, Saturday. — Lat. io° 52' N, long. 590 18'.
Arabian Sea. Hot, with bright sky and smooth sea.
There is great excitement among the ladies in preparing
for a grand fancy dress ball. We have a shop on board,
wherein are sold all kinds of things, from Eno's fruit salt
to fancy work, — a sort of combination of Marshall and
Snelgrove's ; Nathan & Co., the costumiers ; Truth's, the
hairdresser ; with a little intermixture of deck shoes, fancy
sweets, etc.
Dinner was ordered for 5.45, as the ball which was to
commence at 8 was held on the upper deck, affording ample
space for dancing with a crush. The decorations with
flags, etc., were most artistic ; the room was brilliantly
illuminated with the electric light. The company as
sembled about 8 o'clock in the drawing-room saloon.
Expressions of great surprise were made at the wonderful
'' get ups " of some of the characters pourtrayed, their
elegance and costliness. Some were got up so as to defy
recognition,— a Norwegian girl, Little Bo-peep, Night, a
Country girl (represented by a handsome young man),
Sunny Pink, Silver Bells and Cockle Shells, a Spanish
2

Voyage to Ceylon.

lady, a Greek girl, an Italian Beauty, a Venetian lady,
a Gipsy, a Turkish beauty, Cards, Black Banjo, Bones,
a Moor, a Jockey, Sailor, Master of Galway Hounds, an
Irishman, a Chef, Officers of the Army and Navy, Officers
of the Ship, etc., with many others, in all about 80. The
dancing ended at 10.45 w'th a cotillion, which went off
very well. An excellent champagne supper was then
served in the grand saloon, after which there were
speeches, and then all retired, at 1 1.45. At 8 bells, or
12, the ship was apparently deserted. During the whole of
the evening the ship was so motionless that the most
fastidious could not have found a suggestion to remind
them they were on the sea. Ship's run 348 miles.
November 2gth, Sunday. — Very hot, but magnificent
weather, sea quite calm. We saw a large whale several
times close to the ship. The flying-fish were most amusing
to watch. They get up like birds in a field, a score or two
at once, and go fifty or a hundred yards, and then alight
on the sea again. Run of ship, 349 miles.
November 30th, Monday. — Arabian Sea, lat. 70° 49'N,
long. 850 37'. Very hot, the wind has changed. Boxes
on deck. Cricket during the day and dancing at night.
Ship's run 345 miles. A magnificent tropical sunset.

II,
CEYLON.

CHAPTER II.
CEYLON.
J~\ ECEMBER ist, Tuesday. — No wind. The sea is like
a looking-glass. It is very hot, being so near to the
equator — 900 in the shade. We are anticipating our arrival
at Colombo during the night, where passengers go ashore.
About sixty passengers sleep on deck every night, their
cabins being so hot and close. It is a curious sight,
for they are " done up " in various ways, not to keep the
cold out, but to prevent the heat getting in. There is
a great run on the baths all day long. Some folks take
in plenty of food as well as drinks, which increase their
discomfort. We have arrived at Colombo, having accomplished 6,918
miles in the most wonderful weather possible, having ex
perienced but two rough seas, and that for a short time
only. If the remaining 5,000 miles in the Southern
hemisphere are as favourable, it will have been a record
passage of good weather.
December 2nd, Wednesday. — Sailed into the green har
bour of Colombo at daybreak, and saw the sun rise over
the palm trees, which form a belt for many miles. It is

2 2 Ceylon.
a fine harbour, and there were several large steamers as
well as a considerable number of sailing vessels, one very
large, with four masts ; hundreds of " catamarans," with,
for the most part, three dark brown Singalese or Tamils,
some very scantily clad ; a pocket-handkerchief of bright
yellow and red seemed to be full-dress attire.
The catamarans are formed by three pieces of board, or of
the trunk of a tree scooped out, about eighteen inches wide,
and have an outrigger, formed of a portion of a tree, which
prevents them upsetting. They are worked by two men
with pieces of wood fastened to discs. These men dive
for money, apples, potatoes — in fact, for almost anything
that can be made to sink. They also take passengers for
a sail who will venture into such frail craft.
As soon as the sailing order was posted we decided
to go to Kandy, which is the capital of Buddhism and the
Temple of the Tooth. There was little time to get ashore
and drive to the station at 7.30. However, the question of
breakfast was ignored, and as there was not a boat, we
stepped into a catamaran, and trusted ourselves to the care
of two brown nudes, who understood " sharp," and worked
like niggers. In a quarter of an hour they landed us safely
at the Customs House steps, with a feeling that a further
sail would be a pleasure. We procured a carriage, which
took us to the station, where we obtained our first impres
sion of a tropical town, in passing through the streets, if
that is the proper designation, for the whole place turns
and twists round lagoons, some of fresh, others of salt
water. On arriving at the station we had only just time to
procure tickets and take our places for the refreshment car,
which arrived in an hour. The whole place is fringed with
palms ; the straight ones are areca-nut, and the crooked

Ceylon.

23

cocoa-nut, some being of an immense height. The first
part of the journey was through flat districts, mostly
covered with water, being paddy (rice) fields, which arc
flooded from the rivers. In places the noses and horns of
the buffalo could be seen just visible at the surface, and

Singalese Dwelling.

scantily clad natives bathing or fishing, while others were
tilling the ground.
After going twenty-five miles without stopping, we were
pulled up at a station surrounded by a large village, whose
inhabitants turned out en masse to see the train. It was
a most interesting sight, for all the dwellings were covered
with palms and bananas, with undergrowth of most lovely
flowers, orchids, and the lantana of Ceylon, which has

24 Ceylon.
a beautiful orange flower. The people looked splendid,
with their brown, shining skins and red or blue little
bits of costume, and palm parasols. The children were
most amusing, and stood up like men, the erect carriage
of whom is most remarkable, giving evidence of being a
well fed and happy race. Our breakfast, which was most
acceptable, consisted of soup, fish, cold beef, chicken pie,
grilled chicken, choice butter, marmalade, and coffee, for
which we paid two rupees each.
At the end of forty miles the train commenced ascend
ing the mountain, and turned and twisted up I in 40,
until we reached Kandy, 1,700 feet above the valley.
Some of the detractors of the Scarborough and Whitby
railway should see this line, and how twelve saloon
carriages are taken up. The coming down occupied half
an hour longer, but in neither case was this any marvel ;
for the 104 miles first class we were only charged \2s.
Arriving at Kandy about 1 1 o'clock, after a most interesting
journey, we turned out of the train, and then the redskins
were let out, who, with their friends, made a great crowd,
giving a colouring to the masses of vegetation. We pro
cured a carriage and drove to the market, where tropical
fruits were exposed for sale. We then went round the lake
to their "Dalada Maiegawd," or Temple of the Great Tooth.
(See Encyclopedia?)
We saw the Governor's house and gardens, then visited
the various streets of Tamils, Singalese, etc. Our next
drive was to the gardens of Paradeniza, about two miles
away, where there are specimens of every tree and plant
that grows in Ceylon — cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs, cinchona,
coffee, cocoa, tea, and various spices. U~nfortunately a
heavy shower came down, which lasted half an hour ; we
had some shelter, but it was awful. Ten minutes after the

Ceylon.

25

rain had ceased all was dried up — our clothes as well —
and the ground appeared as if there had not been any rain
for a month. We had a tropical lunch of fruit, washed
down with cocoa-nut milk, which was cool and delicious.
We then visited a tea plantation and factory, and saw the
whole process, from gathering to finishing. We joined the
train ¦ at Paradeniza, and returned to Colombo, having
afternoon tea. On the way we saw some elephants
enjoying a bath in the river, and many carts drawn by
bullocks. We returned to the ship about 10.

' !<0gk.

.s-ffkm A7'j7r27.

Singalese Bullock Waggon.

III.
VOYAGE TO VICTORIA.

CHAPTER III.
VOYAGE TO VICTORIA.
T^\ECEMBER 3rd, Thursday. — We remained here until
12 o'clock. The harbour was a wonderful sight,
crowded with canoes, bum-boats, catamarans, etc.
The sail out of port was beautiful, and we kept close to
the land for several hours. At 4 o'clock, when opposite
the lighthouse, the ship was " swung," — that is, made two
semicircles for the purpose of testing the compasses.
December 4th, Friday. — Very hot, ship sailing well in a
calm sea. Nothing of interest to-day. The run of the
ship 309 miles ; we are only two days from the equator.
The sunset has been most remarkable and splendid ; the
new moon seemed transparent. It was strange to see the
stars set in the horizon, at first looking like a ship's light,
and then going below, leaving a glimmer on the water.
December $th, Saturday. — Very fine, sea- smooth. About
8 this morning we crossed the line, but did not see
anything of it. This was explained by some said to know.
A Yankee knew for a fact that a firm in New York sent
out a ship with an india-rubber bottom, which erased the
line, and that it will never be seen again until Christopher

50 Voyage to Victoria.

Columbus takes the trouble to re-draw it. The equator is
very hot, but of course there is a wind ; the temperature in
our cabin is 86° ; but it seems to agree with us both.
December 6th, Sunday.— -Wind fresher, but hot. We had
service on deck. The captain read the Prayers, and the
purser the Lessons in good style. The parson sat and
listened, and, maybe, took a cheap lesson. Run 331 miles ;
lat. 20 41' S. ; long. 820 27'.
December 7th, Monday. — Some wind. We are now in the
south-east trade winds, and the ship is more lively. A
few people upset again. A vessel has not been seen since
Thursday. Ship's run 342 miles.
December 8th, Tuesday.— Weather still splendid, being
much cooler. Nothing of interest. Ship's run 338 miles.
December gth, Wednesday.— -Fine weather, and again
cooler. Everything going on as usual. Ship's run 336
miles. December 10th, Thursday. — A ground swell, making the
ship a little uneasy, and taking the dignity out of some of
the passengers. Ship's run 359 miles
December nth, Friday. — Fine weather. We are now 29°
from the equator. It is rather cold. We have not seen
a vessel since leaving Colombo, nor any birds or fishes,
only the ocean, whichever way we looked, from night until
morning, and from morning until night ; but still the days
pass in a wonderful way. Ship's run 347 miles.
December 12th, Saturday. — Weather very fine, but cold,
the passengers wearing dark and warm clothes. We are in
Cape Leeuwin or Lioness, which equals the Bay of Biscay
for fury ; but in our case, so far, the Lioness is asleep, and
all goes well.
This afternoon the fire-bell rang with great fury, and the
ship was immediately divided into five compartments, by

Voyage to Victoria. 31
the iron doors being closed. The boats were all cleared
ready for launching, and after a search had been made to
find the part on fire, it was discovered to be a false alarm.
All this does good, both to the passengers and the crew,
because the " ropes " are thereby learnt.
In the morning we hope to be in Albany, and letters
have to be posted to-night to catch the passing mail for
England, as soon as we arrive.
So far, this has been a most wonderful passage, because
it is seldom a ship is at sea five weeks without a storm.
Next Friday it is most probable we shall arrive in Mel
bourne. In the evening the wind freshened, we had a stormy
night, and the ship was lively.
December 13th, Sunday. — A rough sea, with cold rain
and squalls. We sailed down the coast of Australia, and
passed through the Channel leading to Albany harbour,
entering it safely soon after 11. The wind continued cold,
and, with the squalls, was not pleasant ; this did not give
a favourable impression of Albany. It is situated in a vale
between two hills, and looks pretty from the harbour.
After lunch we decided to go ashore.
Going ashore was a difficult operation, having to get
into a small steam launch ; then came the trouble, for it
shipped seas, and we got a good wetting. The town is much
spread about, and everything looks in a most unfinished
state. It comprises a town hall, three banks, fairly good
buildings, a few shops which were closed, it being Sunday,
and four public-houses. The private houses, for the most
part of one story, with a verandah, are stuck about on the
face of both hills, with views of the harbour. Some had
nice, tidy gardens, with flowers ; others looked as though a
wind had left them to be improved upon some time. There

Voyage to Victoria.

is a fairly nice-looking church, with a square tower ; and
another is being built, with a tin roof. These seem sufficient
provision for the religious requirements of the population.
We walked through the town, but saw only about half a
dozen people — two were Aborigines (blacks) ; we could only
suppose the others were engaged with port wine and nuts.
Of course we were unable to express an opinion as to the
youth and beauty of the place, none being visible.
There is a railway to Perth, 206 miles off, and a through
train once a week. The population is something under
a thousand, equal to the number of souls we carry on our
ship. We returned to the vessel in time for dinner, after
coming to the conclusion that Albany was a city wanting
population and the means of keeping it. The coaling of
the Ophir was not finished until midnight, and we sailed
at two in the morning.
December 14th, Monday. — Stormy weather, with very big
sea running, the ship rolling like a cork. Many are indis
posed ; but there is little discomfort on board, except in not
being able to walk about. The slaughter in glasses and
crockery is wonderful, and we are getting short of teacups.
What are left show signs of having suffered rough treatment.
December \^th, Tuesday. — The bad weather still con
tinues. It is interesting to watch the big seas, and a large
number of albatross which are following the ship. This
part is called the Australian Bight, it is 1,022 miles across,
and is the worst part of the sea in this hemisphere — an
Australian Bay of Biscay.
December 16th, Wednesday. — The gale continues, and the
ship is not too comfortable in consequence, even for good
sailors ; but " life on the ocean wave " still goes on. At the
same time, most of us wish for less sea.
December 17th, Thursday. — At 5 o'clock we steamed into

Voyage to Victoria. 33

Port Adelaide Bay, and as soon as the sailing order for
12 o'clock was out we went ashore, and enjoyed the
change. It is a fine place, with plenty of business. The
fruit shops were a great attraction. There was a great run
upon them, for it was a novelty to find cherries ripe (and
good ones, too), strawberries, splendid gooseberries, peaches,
and apricots in abundance, also green peas and many other
things, on December 17th. In an hour or two the place
was cleared out with the hundred or two of customers,
who all bought more or less.
At 3 o'clock the coaling was completed, and we sailed
out of the bay, and were glad to find the sea in a smoother
condition. December 18th, Friday. — Packing up and preparing for
our arrival in Melbourne was the order of the day, as well
as many expressions of regret at the breaking up of pleasant
parties. Some were going to Tasmania, some to New
Zealand, others to Queensland, and not a few were going
to remain in Melbourne.

IV.
VICTORIA.

CHAPTER IV.
VICTORIA.
T^ECEMBER igth, Saturday. — At 4.30 in the morning
we anchored in Melbourne Harbour, and at 5 o'clock
we were asked to get up and pack our luggage, ready to be
sent ashore. This occupied some time. At 8 o'clock we had
breakfast, and soon after left in a tender for Sandwich Pier,
where a special train was waiting to take us to the city.
All this was a great scurry and rush, and a bitter disappoint
ment to many who had friends wishing to meet them on
board in the usual way. The reason was obvious, for the
Ophir cleared out on Saturday night to complete the voyage
to Sydney.
Six weeks and one day seem to have passed quickly,
for we have seen much and had many new experiences:
Our baggage was taken to a railway shed in Bond No. 3,
Jolivant, where we had to apply this afternoon, and undergo
the Customs ordeal. It was a wonderful scramble, for
everything was mixed up, and the luggage of two hundred
and fifty people, all en masse, required some patience to find.
Our eight packages, a small number compared to what
some had — one gentleman, with his family, had fifty-two :

38 Victoria.

a year of weeks, or a pack of cards — took about three hours
to find and get passed.
We took a room at the Federal Palace Hotel, which
is conducted on the cash system, which we paid for till the
morning to see if we liked the place. All meals are paid
for as soon as eaten. Consequently there is a great saving
in booking, and no bills when you leave. It is said the
ground and building cost ^250,000. We were immensely
struck with the city, its wide streets and grand buildings.
There is a perfect system of tramways. Already we have
had several long rides to explore the city and suburbs.
December 21st, Melbourne, Sunday. — It takes much time
to getting settled down in a strange and large city, but
we began to feel fairly at home with the knowledge already
gained by rides in tramcars. This system is marvellous
in its completeness ; it seems to permeate the whole city
and suburbs with the means of a pleasant and frequent
locomotion, and with a little knowledge it is easy to get
anywhere for a few pence, without noise, smoke, or horses.
The cars travel at a good pace, and are patronised by all
sorts and conditions of people. Each end of the day special
trams run at a nominal cost for workmen only. We have
not been able to learn whether the system pays or not.
With regard to cabs, they, on the other hand, are just as
objectionable, drivers uncivil and extortionate, and seem to
be quite masters of the situation. If you get into a cab
and state your destination cabby asks how much you are
going to pay. The proper fare is is., and you suggest giving
is. 6d. if he goes on at once ; then the reply is, " Won't
take you for less than is. each." Perhaps when you have
gone a short distance some more passengers are taken up,
and you are lucky if they are not delivered first. There
are few of these harpies in consequence, but any number

Victoria. 39

of people who remove luggage. London cabbies are
gentlemen in comparison.
The weather is getting very hot and dry, but the streets
are crowded with people, and the shops are decorated for
Christmas with holly and red berries, and some have
Father Christmas in the window with his snowy locks.
This all seems strange under a burning sun, with the
temperature, in the shade, from 900 to 95°, ripe straw
berries, peaches, nectarines, and gooseberries being in
profusion. December 22nd, Monday. — We could not eat our lunch,
for the hot wind was " turned on," the temperature being
1040 in the shade at the Observatory. Returning home the
wind changed to the south, and the temperature in ten
minutes fell over 400, which seemed to chill us to the
marrow, we being lightly clad. During the evening we
went out again, but it was too cold to be pleasant. Such
sudden changes cannot be good for health.
December 23rd, Tuesday. — ¦ Had a long and pleasant
interview with Mr. Goldstein, Secretary to the Charity
Organisation Society, who is well up in the work, and most
energetic. There is a large field for the society's opera
tions, and it is well supported by the most influential
people, who reap the benefit in the distribution of their
other charities. The working expenses are about £700 a
year, for with such a large population it is requisite to have
several officers to make inquiries. We are invited to
have an interview with the president. The afternoon was
devoted to making calls.
December 24th, Christinas Eve. — Very hot and dusty.
Again went sight-seeing. The streets were crowded with
holiday people and those bent on shopping ; the display
of fruit and flowers was most striking. A little before 4

40 Victoria.

we went to Spencer Street railway station, having procured
tickets in the morning to go to Ballarat. The crowd was
something appalling, but having little luggage, and with
the aid of" palm oil," we managed to get into a Pullman Car,
and found comfortable seats. Very soon . it was crowded
with many who had to stand all the way. The first part
of the journey, as far as geology was concerned, was flat,
cultivated country, with the corn standing in stacks, but all
looked quite burnt up for want of rain. After leaving
Geelong the line made an ascent, and wound round hills,
through green valleys, until we got up 1,600 feet, and
reached Ballarat, the " city of gold."
December 2^th, Christmas Day. — It did not look much
like Christmas, with ripe cornfields and fruit, everything
bearing a midsummer aspect, and a hot sun. y
This is a most peculiar city, having fine wide streets.
Sturt Street is on the Continental plan — with a row, or
rather a plantation, of trees up the middle with seats.
In this street are the principal buildings, town hall, etc.,
large shops, and good hotels. Farther from the town
are good private residences, showing evidence of great
wealth ; and a little more than a mile off is a fine lake,
Windermere, one mile and one-eighth in diameter, sur
rounded with beautiful trees and walks. Steamers ply
across this to the Botanical Gardens, which are prettily
laid out with good specimen trees and aviaries of Aus
tralian birds, also statuary presented by rich citizens.
All this is most attractive, and very creditable for so
young a city, which is still prospering upon its gold, which
constitutes the peculiarity ; for wherever you go there are
" claims," which means gold mining in some form or other.
Some have pretentious machinery, with shafts going down
1,000 feet, while others seem to be digging near the surface.

Sturt Street, Ballarat, Victoria.

Victoria. 43
The wind became cold, so we returned home, and had
our Christmas dinner of roast beef, roast goose, and plum
pudding with fresh fruit. It became so cold that we sat
over the " yule log," and talked about our friends at home,
who would be enjoying their breakfasts about the same
time, and no doubt talking of us.
December 26th. — A fine morning. We visited a large
" claim," or gold mine, but the machinery was not at work.
This gave an opportunity of a thorough explanation of the
process, which is simple enough ; the earth of a pale drab
colour, and sand is brought up from different strata, and
then ground by machinery, which, with the addition of
water, reduces it to a pulp ; this runs over flannel, leaving
the fine gold and other metals, while the sand is carried
away by the water. This process, with variations, is
repeated several times, so that it seems impossible for any
gold to escape. All the metals are collected and after
wards subjected to heat, which disposes of volatile metals
like arsenic, then the whole is put into a cylinder with
quicksilver, which absorbs all the other metals, and leaves
the gold pure, worth £4 3s. 4d. per ounce. From this
" claim " last year 77,000 ounces were sold. Sometimes
nuggets are found, one quite recently, weighing 72 ounces.
We visited another " claim " in full operation, but did not
learn anything more, except that after all the science and
skill adopted in extracting gold, there is sufficient left to
have attracted a colony of Chinese, who pay a trifle to be
allowed to operate upon the rejected mud. This they
do by patient hand labour, and John Chinaman makes a
living. They are said to work twenty-four hours a day, and
smoke opium on Sunday, when gold business is prohibited.
We next visited China Town, and saw two " Jost Houses '
(churches), and a large number of wooden boxes, which

44 Victoria.

did not look much like dwellings. In the main street there
were Chinese shops and eating-houses. Some of the richer
men have married white women, and you see curious
children running about, dressed half Chinese and half
European, with odd-shaped faces, some fat and round,
with coarse mouths and two little slit eyes ; others just
the reverse, Chinese faces with large blue English eyes.
What the next generation may be is a good question for
speculation. The College of Mines is a fine institution, which attracts
students from all over the colony, and is presided over by
many able men. A School of Art is just being opened,
and a Mr. S. S  , from South Kensington, has got the
appointment of headmaster. A new Infirmary is also going
to be built forthwith on a large scale.
This being holiday time, we have not had a fair
opportunity of judging the place in its natural every
day life. Nevertheless, there is every appearance of
prosperity. The eucalyptus, or blue gum, grows to an immense size,
and is to be found in most of the streets. We had the
opportunity of seeing it in full flower, which made it look
quite gay. The flowers appear, when on the tree, some
thing like chrysanthemums, but in the hand more like a
flattened thistle. It again became quite cold, so we went
"home." December 27th, Sunday. — I was taken ill during the night
with a sharp attack. Temperature up to 1020. Dr. L 
said it was typhoid fever. I did not think so, for the attack
was too sudden and virulent. Lay in bed four days, taking
only soda-water and milk.
December 3 ij£— Convalescent, but weak ; had a change
of diet.

Victoria. 45

January \st, 1892, Friday. — Much better; had a drive
round the outskirts of the city, which is very pretty. The
country is hilly, well wooded, and interspersed with
"claims." There are many nice, and some pretentious
residences, with fine roads, in the style of London suburbs,
broken now and again with old shanties, and remains of
the original gold-digger.
January 2nd. — We left Ballarat and our friends this
morning with regret, and with much gratitude for all
kindnesses. Before leaving there was a sandstorm, which
filled the atmosphere with sharp sand, until the whole
place seemed obscured ; then came a welcome rain. Any
one who has not seen this cannot imagine the effect, for
it is prodigious. It fills your pockets, and neither eyes
nor mouth can escape its fury.
Arranged to start on Thursday for Tasmania, and from
thence to New Zealand, returning to Australia about the
20th of January.
January 3rd, Sunday. — Went to St. Paul's Cathedral ; a
good service, and well filled with gaily dressed people. The
familiar sounds made us feel almost at home again. In
the afternoon we paid a visit to St. Kilda, which is a sea
side suburb with promenade and baths. There were crowds
of people enjoying the fresh air, and everything looked
" John Bull."
January 4th, Monday. — We were busy all the morning
taking baths, and making arrangements for going to
Tasmania, for the steamer sails on Thursday, and many
people are travelling just now.
There is great excitement with reference to the Inter
national cricket match ; every one seems to be going. We
intend doing so to-morrow, all being well. There are so
many things to see and places to visit, that time goes

46 Victoria.

much too fast, consequently writing has to suffer. It is
something like being in London, " a never end."
The weather is not considered hot for the season ; it is
most changeable. For some hours it is roasting, and in a few
minutes it is quite cold, consequently very trying, especially
to " new chums."
January tyh, Tuesday. — We again spent the day in visiting
various places, although the weather was most depressing
and unpleasant, a hot wind blowing, which means not only
heat but clouds of dust, such as we never experience at
home. In addition there was a plague of flies. These are
neither modest nor retiring. They attack you to obtain
moisture, the eyes being their favourite visiting point.
Taking into consideration that this city has only been in
existence about fifty years, it is perfectly wonderful that so
many institutions are flourishing and in splendid stone
buildings. Many of them are charities well supported, in
the absence of any Poor Law, by the rich having sympathy
with those in need, there being no workhouses where the
destitute may find shelter. When at the Charity Organisa
tion Society's office this morning I learnt that General
Booth's visit had been quite a failure, and that the Victorians
will not be troubled much more with his scheme.
The Zoological Gardens are well laid out, and contain a
goodly show of animals from all parts of the world, even to
an English fox. We were most interested in the Australian
birds and beasts.
There is a fine building in Swanston Street, answering
the combined purposes of a free library, museum of
art, technological treasures, curiosities, sculpture, and a
gallery of paintings, under one roof. Here we saw many
pictures which had been exhibited in our Royal Academy
of Arts, including paintings by Long, Alma Tadema,

Victoria. 47

Orchardson, Waterhouse's " Ulysses and the Syrens,"
shown last year, a large water-colour presented by Walter
Severn, and many others equally familiar.
Colonel Bull most politely showed us over the City Gaol,
a fine building, with over five hundred inmates, male and
female. All the executions and floggings are done here.
The gallows is a permanent machine, in the main hall,
always ready for use, but not observable. It requires so little
preparation that in about two minutes all is ready, without
knocking or fixing. Surely an advance on our system.
The labour question, as with us, is a difficulty. For men
stone-breaking and oakum-picking, for women washing and
rough sewing. Little food is given.
January 6th, Wednesday. — A splendid morning, with a
pleasant, cool air, very refreshing after yesterday.
We visited Cole's Book Arcade, said to be the largest
book-selling shop in the world. Over a million books, old
and new, are offered for sale, in addition to stationery,
picture prints, cards, albums, purses, and all kinds of
porcelain and china vases. There is a library and free
reading-room, with a lift up to each floor. It is a won
derful establishment, and well worth a visit, being free to
every one, whether purchasers or not.

V.
TASMANIA.

4

CHAPTER V.
TASMANIA.
CYANUARY 7th, Thursday.— Another fine day, but
«y rather hot.
We spent the morning in arranging our luggage ; for it
was found requisite to reduce our impedimenta when
visiting New Zealand, which, it appears, is much like Norway
in the matter of being able to get about with luggage, so
this awkward fact had to be faced, and the vision of dinner
costumes, etc., abandoned for a small box and Gladstone
bag. The heavier portion was sent on to Sydney, to await
our arrival there in six weeks' time.
The feeling was akin to the man who buried his wife
and then said, " I am glad she has gone," only with this
difference, that in six weeks we shall meet our demon of
trouble again.
After partaking of " afternoon tea " we started with our
delightful little packages for the wharf, where we found
crowds of people, and the usual bustle of a departing
steamer. We soon got on board the Rotomahana, a fine
steamer of the New Zealand Company, and found some
four hundred fellow-passengers bound for Tasmania. Of

Tasmania.

course, this steamer is not of the Ophir type, but like those
which run from London to Glasgow, etc. We are expecting
a good blow when out of the bay. The Heads are forty
miles from Melbourne.
When in Melbourne we were advised to arrange with
Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son for our trip through

Launceston.

Tasmania and New Zealand. Their agent, Mr. Harrison,
we have to thank for his kindness and trouble in planning
a six weeks' tour, which answered admirably. The railway
and coach tickets commanded every attention, securing for
us the best seats and preference in crowded places, as well
as saving a large amount of trouble.

Tasmania. 53

Before leaving London we secured, through this eminent
firm, letters of credit, which were available all round the
world. January 8th, Friday. — Have had a stormy night, and did
not get much sleep, for the ship rolled a good deal.
About 9 o'clock we passed the lighthouses and entered the
river Tamar, which is very fine, winding round hills clothed
with trees down to the water's edge. In some places it is
four or five miles wide, in other parts quite narrow, much
resembling some of the " fiords " in Norway. At a place
called Roscrear we had to tranship into a steam launch
and continue our journey, arriving at Launceston at 3
o'clock. After securing rooms at the Hotel Brisbane, we
went out for a walk, and found the town a most English-
looking place, resembling Leamington, good streets and
shops, with pretty surroundings, and villa residences.
Near the town is a deep gorge, with a river and immense
Serpentine rocks, just like Norway, and a winding walk to
a fall at the end of this.
After dinner we went to the Exhibition, which is a most
creditable affair for a small country like this. The mining
and mineral department was most interesting, as also the
various productions of the island, which gave a bird's-eye
view of all the most important things to be seen, without
travelling over all the country.
A large model of the island was a great advantage.
The climate is most delicious after Victoria, cool and moist,
and the foliage and grass quite green. The flowers are
exquisite and in great profusion, for Suttons seem to do a
good business in seeds here, which grow to perfection, and
do not seem knocked about with the wind. We start at
3 for Hobart on Saturday.
January gth, Saturday. — Very fine. We had a most

54

Tasmania.

delightful walk over Windmill Hill, which is studded with
villas, and commands a fine view of the rivers South and
North Esks, also the Tamar, and surrounding country,
which is mountainous and thickly wooded. On the highest
point is a cemetery.
On the outskirts are some fine buildings, notably the
Hospital, which is large and well managed. Provision is
made for paying patients, as it seems to be the custom to
send all serious cases there. The asylum for lunatics is-
also a fine building. The public park is a pretty, well-kept
place. The town is a credit to the inhabitants, who, in so few
years, have done so much.
At 3 o'clock we started in a very full train for Hobart,.
and travelled over 128 miles through the centre of the island.
The first part was by the side of the South Esk, and through
well-cultivated lands, where the farmers were busy with the
harvest, which gave quite an autumnal effect, whereas it
was only midsummer. After some miles the railway began
to ascend in a zigzag, until we attained a considerable
height, and passed through immense forests, wholly un
cleared and without a trace of human life ; then we came
upon villages with a few houses of stone and wood, and
generally a church. About 6 o'clock we stayed for about
twenty minutes at Parattahy Junction, where, in a long
room, a rough dinner was served, of meat and fruit pie,
which seemed to be appreciated by many.
About 8 o'clock we came to a large lake, and then
the town of Bridgewater. This lake is the origin of the fine
river Derwent, which quite puts to shame our Derwent in
Yorkshire. We travelled for an hour by the side of the
river, and then reached Hobart, the capital of Tasmania.
We had some difficulty in finding an hotel, for all the places

Tasmania. 55

seemed to be full, in consequence of two or three great
functions — a Science Congress, and the laying of the founda
tion stone of the tower of the Cathedral. However, we found
a most comfortable place, Westelle, a little distance from
the centre of the town. We then had a stroll to see the
crowd of a Saturday night.
Some of the names of the villages are familiar ; such as
Jericho, Epping Forest, Cleveland, Brighton, Richmond,
Jerusalem, Glenorchy, etc., not forgetting York Plains.
We are pleased with our hotel, which has attached to it a
nice garden and lawn-tennis ground, from which there are
fine views of the Harbour and Mount Wellington. It is
thoroughly English in all respects, and the proprietor a
native of Whitby ; in fact, it might be said to be Yorkshire,
for at our table were visitors from Heckmondwike, and at
the next table some people from Bradford, and two from
Bingley ; consequently we were all very free, feeling quite
at home. The climate here is warm, with an elastic, cool
air, which pats you on the cheek.
January 10th, Sunday. — A most charming morning.
We went to St. David's Cathedral for service at 11.
A grand hymn was sung as the procession moved down
to the west door to receive the Bishop of Tasmania (Dr.
Montgomery) and the Bishop of New South Wales, with
seven clergy. There was a fairly good service. Dr. Corlette
preached from the text, " Can man live by bread alone ? "
In the afternoon we walked to Newtown, a very pretty
suburb, with fine views, and beautiful villas in well-kept
grounds. Everywhere there are masses of geranium
bushes eight or ten feet high, with a profusion of flowers of
every description, and trees of honeysuckle, which are most
striking. January nth, Monday.— Another splendid morning.

56 Tasmania.

After breakfast wc went for a walk over the Domain or
public park of one thousand acres, which is on the side of a
hill rising from the river Derwent. The river recalls Lake
Windermere, and the situation of Hobart much resembles
Ambleside, with the mountains behind and the lake-like river
in front, with hills covered with foliage and studded with
villas. At the end of the Domain is the Governor's house,
in rising ground commanding a fine view of the river, and
adjoining are the Botanical Gardens, which are well laid
out, and kept in order by prisoners in their prison clothes,
guarded by soldiers. Some were also employed in making
a road. In the afternoon we had a drive in a well-appointed
carriage to Fern Tree Bower, which is situated about two
thousand feet up the side of Mount Wellington. Some of
the trees are of an immense size, and the foliage very fine,
especially the tree ferns, which are a wonder to those
who have not seen them before. We had a stroll of about
two miles through a shady walk, and saw flocks of green
parrots in their state of nature, the colour of their plumage
being very beautiful. There were fine views of the coast
and rivers, a perfect panorama of coast scenery.
January 12th, Tuesday. — We started early by the steamer
Monarch, and sailed up the Derwent for twenty miles, which
was like passing through a series of lakes, with wood-clad
hills, rather than a river.
The first place of call was Bridgewater, and afterwards
New Norfolk, a very pretty place with a good hotel, where
we lunched. Near is a large salmon-breeding place. The
river is full of fish, and there is good shooting.
On the steamer there was a large quantity of raspberries
in casks going to the jam-makers; for it appears New Norfolk
is a great fruit-growing place, and supplies many of the

Tasmania.

57

apples we receive in England. On the wharves were piles
of wood, sawn out into proper sizes for boxes to convey
the apples. Besides the fruit orchards we saw many hop
gardens, with the bine in full flower, looking most healthy.
We sailed back, and arrived in time for dinner.
January 13th, Wednesday. — We walked to Sandy Bay,
and on our return saw the hospital, lunatic asylum, and
prison. This place seems to suffer under the stigma of

Fern Tree Bower.

formerly being a convict station, and in the neighbourhood
the prisons still exist, especially at Norfolk. In the asylums
there are convicts who became lunatics.
As you go along and see a fine house, on inquiring the
name of the resident, the reply is frequently Mr.  , " a
lag,"— that is, a former convict. There is a magnificent
house overlooking the Harbour built by " a settler," who is
said to be very rich.
To-morrow we sail in the Te Aneau for the Bluff, New

5 8 Tasmania.

Zealand, 1,200 miles, a voyage of six days. The ship is
small, being only 1,500 tons, and the passage generally
rough ; but we are getting to be good sailors.
Jamiary 14th, Thursday. — A wet day, the first we have
experienced ; so spent some time in the Museum and
Aquarium, which are free and open every day. The building
is of considerable dimensions and of fine yellow sandstone.
The Museum is devoted to the Australias, Tasmania, New
Zealand, and the South Sea Islands ; it is most interesting
to visitors of these countries. The Aquarium is devoted
to the fish of the Pacific, which are truly wonderful in shape
and colour, but very few are good to eat. The principal
one is the Trumpeter, and is plentiful.
The ship, in which we were to sail at 5, did not arrive,
in consequence of rough weather outside, so had to stay
another day. Some went to the theatre, whilst we spent a
quiet evening.

VI.
NEW ZEALAND.

CHAPTER VI.
NE W ZEALAND.
^f ANUARY i^th, Friday. — The whole population were
«-/ much shocked to hear of the death of Prince Albert
Victor. The inhabitants showed their loyalty by hoisting
flags half-mast high ; minute bells were also tolled, and
telegrams sent to the Queen, and to the Prince and Princess
of Wales.
Our ship having arrived, we came on board at 2 o'clock,
and found a busy scene, many people seeing off friends.
It became evident the ship would not sail at 3 ; however,
there was plenty of amusement provided in watching cargo
come out and go in. A fox terrier standing before a case
containing bananas from Brisbane suggested there must be
either a rat or mouse near. After a little examination we saw
a rat's tail amid the fruit, so directed an officer's attention to
the fact. He decided to open the lid, when a fine rat jumped
out. Another dog at once came on the scene, resulting in a
fight with the terrier, during which Mr. Rat walked quietly
away with thoughts of Dr. Watts' " Let dogs delight to
bark and bite." However, another rat was found in the
box, which met its fate in coming into contact with the
victorious dog. There are plenty of these rats' relations

62 New Zealand.

about ; but they do not trouble us, for there are hundreds of
boxes of peaches, apricots, and cherries going from Hobart
to New Zealand. Fruit-growing in Tasmania must be an
important industry, and the people eat fruit at every meal.
At 5 o'clock the bell rang to clear the ship of those
not going on. There were 120 passengers — far too many
for such a ship, 40 being without berths.
The sail out of harbour occupied about an hour, and of
the river two more. The scenery is splendid, and for two
hours we had a view of Hobart and Mount Wellington,
where we had spent such a pleasant week, and have left
with delightful memories of kind people, beautiful scenery,
and most genial climate.
We were fairly into the Pacific about 9, coming across
the tail end of a storm with a heavy swell, and not much
chance of a comfortable night.
January \6th, Saturday. — After a rough night, and not
much sleep in the hardest possible berth, we got up with
rather sore bones to find there was plenty of room, many
having retired prematurely from the festive board. The
swell continued all day with a cold wind, which was not
enjoyable. We are told this is fair weather for the Pacific,
which is a misnomer, for in these parts it is considered the
roughest sea in the world.
January 17th, Sunday. — The wind has changed, and the
sea gone down to some extent, but the swell continues,
making the ship roll.
At 10.30 there was a Church of England service — two
clergymen, one a Colonial, the other an Oxford Professor,
but their names did not transpire. They could not between
them raise a sermon. There was another service in the
afternoon. Most people seem satisfied with the religious
performances of the day.

New Zealand. 63
Nothing but the vast expanse of the ocean with some
albatross gracefully flying, the stormy petrel, and a flight of
white swallows, has been seen all day.
January 18th, Monday. — The sea has increased with wind
and rain, our comfort decreasing in like proportion, as well
as the profit ; for even with the fiddles on the tables glass
and china go, not to Japan, but to pieces. Presentations
could be done cheaply here, as pieces of plate are so plenti
ful they are thrown overboard.
The time has now reached n§ hours before Greenwich,
so that, for the most part, we can calculate what is doing at
home. When we are up, you are in bed, and vice versd.
There is a curious custom on this line of steamers on the
last night of the voyage. Although dinner is only finished
about 7.30, at 9.30 supper is served, consisting of red
herrings, which come from Aberdeen in tins, mutton chops
fried, and baked potatoes. It may be a gratification to
the colonists, but the fumes all over the ship of red
herrings are enough to upset the strongest stomach. This
performance lasted till midnight.
January igth, Tuesday. — About 8 o'clock we entered
Bluff Harbour, and landed about 9, and were very glad
to get out of the herring-stricken ship, for it was impossible
to sleep in such an atmosphere.
A special train took us to Invercargill, a thriving agricul
tural town with streets 75 yards wide and avenues of trees
We dined at the Albion Hotel, built and kept by a lady
from Hull.
At 4.30 we started for Lumsden, a little town in
the mountains, and travelled through a fine agricultural
country, well stocked with cattle, horses, and thousands of
sheep, the grass and crops being most abundant, but the
population very thin. We arrived at Lumsden soon after 8,

64

New Zealand.

and found a village of about 300 people, situated on a large
plain through which a river flows. The plain is surrounded
by mountains, and looks much like some places in the
Highlands of Scotland. We took up our quarters at the
Elbow Hotel, a small but comfortable house kept by a
Mr. Fletcher, late of London. January 20th, Wednes
day. — A very fine morning ;
had a climb up one of the
hills, from which there was
a fine view. On returning
dined off roast sirloin of beef,
etc., and afterwards went to
the gardens to eat ripe
gooseberries. At 4 we left
for Kingston, a nice ride
through beautiful country,
and came to " Wakatipu
Lake," where we embarked
on a steamer and sailed for
Queenstown, a pretty little
town situated about the
^~%e%ws>^K middle of the lake — 52 miles
1 long — where there is an
The Remarkables (7,200 feet high). , .
opening m the mountains,
which are from 4,000 to 9,000 feet high, and quite barren.
The Remarkables, 7,200 feet, opposite Queenstown, look like
polished slate, not having a vestige of vegetation. The lake
resembles some of the Norwegian fiords, only the mountains
arc higher ; the water is the bluest of the blue, and the
whole presenting a magnificent spectacle.
January 21st, Thursday. — Spent the day in sailing on the
lake and in walking to see sights.

a
Q.

New Zealand. 67

January 22nd, Friday.— Started at 6, and sailed on the
lake, breakfasting on board, and much enjoying the trout.
On landing we went by train, which was little better than a
tramway, only going about 12 miles an hour. We passed
through a fine agricultural district, where there are large
sheep stations. It being the shearing season great activity
prevailed. On some of the stations there are 100,000 sheep,
and each year about 20,000 lambs. Crowds of men go
from station to station to shear, like the Irish do in our
harvests. By practice they can shear from 100 to 150 sheep
each in a day of ten hours. It seems almost incredible, but
we have it on the best authority. After a pleasant day we
arrived in Dunedin about 7.
January 23rd, Saturday. — Another grand day. We
breakfasted early, and then had a look round the town,
which is most beautifully placed, being in the spurs of
several hills surrounding an arm of the sea, coming between
two heads forming a deep bay. There are many fine
buildings of stone and brick, banks and warehouses, which
would not disgrace either Manchester or Glasgow. The
Grand Hotel, where we are staying, is said to be the finest
hotel in New Zealand. We met a friend who took us to
his warehouse ; and as we had passed the stations, where
he has 80,000 sheep and 1 5,000 lambs, he asked us to visit
Rosslynville Mills, which are in a beautiful valley 3 miles
from here, kindly taking us in his carriage. We saw the
process of manufacture from the sheep's fleece to woollen
goods of all descriptions — the finest dress pieces, splendid
rugs, Scotch tweeds, and all kinds of worsted fingering and
wool for fancy work, Jaeger's stockinette, natural wool and
most splendid socks. One thing struck us much. All the
machinery bore the names of English makers — Platts, Man
chester, Prince Smith & Son, Keighley, and some Leeds

68 New Zealand.

names. It reminded us of a visit to the Armenian monastery
in the Ledo at Venice, where there is a printing press of
Dawson's, Otley, Yorkshire. Wages are 40 per cent, higher
than in England ; but this is more than compensated for,
as the freight of wool is saved, also the return freight of
manufactured goods and shippers' profits ; with the result
of an increasing demand for New Zealand manufactures,
which are said to be of superior quality, consequently new
mills are springing up to the detriment of British trade.
We had a splendid drive in the peninsula overlooking the
bay and harbour of Port Chalmers, and saw the market
gardens which supply the town. Afterwards we drove
through some of the principal streets, and went to the
Botanical Gardens, and through the Belt — a portion of the
old bush which has not been cleared, and now forms a belt
of trees round the upper part of the town.
We are quite charmed with the prosperity of New
Zealand, with its fertile lands, cattle, horses, sheep, and
minerals, and the happy condition of the people, not having
seen a beggar yet, or a poor-looking person.
January 24th, Sunday. — A beautiful day, and not too hot.
We went to the pro-cathedral and heard the archdeacon.
It is a modest building, for the Church is at a discount here.
The Scotch Presbyterian churches are much finer buildings,
because the population is for the most part of Scotch origin.
January 2^th, Monday. — Our visit to Dunedin has been
most interesting ; it is the Edinburgh of New Zealand com
bined with Leith, and manufacturing ; it is also one of the
principal ports for the shipment of frozen mutton. The
sheep are slaughtered by thousands a little distance out of
the city, and then brought to the freezing houses to await
shipment. The killing and dressing is carried out with
great care and dispatch, and the sheep suffer much less than

New Zealand. 69

in our Christian country. An instrument called the " cane "
is inserted into the ear, which produces immediate stupor ;
and then the knife is used to separate the head from the
body. Another industry is dairy factories, which seem
quite numerous, and are a great success. Butter is splendid,
and beyond what is produced in England or sold in a general
way. This is now being sent to England, and it remains
to be seen whether the venture will pay. In connection
with these factories are large pig-breeding and feeding
establishments, so that nothing is wasted.
We left by the railway, which follows the shore of the
bay and then the sea coast for many miles, sometimes close
to the water, at others two or three hundred feet above ; and
in some places the thick bush still exists, with its splendid
trees and fine undergrowth, and then through what are
known here as fern gullies, where the fern tree, so much
prized in conservatories, abounds in thousands. We passed
the Lunatic Asylum, built on high ground with splendid
stone, and bush extending down to the sea, with pretty walks
made by the patients. We passed Port Chalmers, where all
the shipping used to be done for Dunedin, until a deep
channel was made to the city. About twenty miles from
Dunedin the railway skirts a lake which is much frequented
by black swans. We saw an immense number, some flying
away, while others remained to protect their families of
white cygnets. The numbers were not in keeping with
" Rara avis in terris, nigroque simile cygno."
After passing Omaru station we left Otago and entered
Canterbury, and traversed the rich agricultural plains which
reach to Christchurch.
On arriving at Christchurch we took up our quarters at
Coker's Hotel, kept by Mr. Popham. Mr. and Mrs. H. M.
Stanley were staying there. In the evening he gave a lecture.

70 New Zealand.

January 26th, Tuesday. — Another splendid day. We were
obliged to rise early to complete our visit to Christchurch,
as the coaches only run twice a week, which cut short the
time at this, the most English-looking town in New Zealand,
with its cathedral, and streets laid out like the lines on a
chessboard, and the pretty river Avon. This is the home of
the English Church and retired colonists who have made a
little pile, and where society revolves in small circles.
We went by railway to Springfield, where three coaches
were waiting to take passengers to the Bealey and through
the Oteira gorge. Fortifying the inner man and getting
packed in the box-seats of an American coach did not
occupy long. The coach was of the same pattern as that used
in the Exhibition of the Far West, and constructed to sustain
any amount of wear and tear. The springs are of leather,
and the wheels and axles more like a stone waggon than
a coach. At 12.30 we started with fifteen passengers, all
told, drawn by five horses. It was called " The Royal
Mail," having half a ton of mail-bags to deliver before the
coach completed its journey to a place called Hokitika, on
the west coast. The driver, a Yorkshireman, shouted " All
aboard ? " and with a crack of the whip sent the horses off
at a rattling pace, which was continued for 10 miles, until
the arrival at Ponter's Pass, constructed like a corkscrew
on the face of a mountain, where the speed was reduced to
2 miles an hour. Many of us walked and enjoyed the
bracing air until the saddle * of the pass was reached, 3,000
feet high. Here a fine view was obtained of mountains and
Lake Lyndin, to which we descended. The roads are cut
in the face of the mountains, and are only sufficiently wide
for the coach ; and, as there is no protection, the wheels are
frequently within a few inches of the edge of the precipice of

A mountain pass.

New Zealand. 71

hundreds of feet, with a roaring river at the bottom, or huge
rocks, which would on contact perforate your skull, if any
thing should happen to the horses or to the wheels of the
coach. After crossing several rivers with beds of stones half
a mile wide, there being no bridges, we reached Cloudesley
Accommodation House, and changed horses at 4 o'clock.
Here afternoon tea was provided, with scones which are
celebrated all over New Zealand. Mrs. Cloudesley quar
relled with us because we cut one with a knife, saying it
was " no canny." This tea was much enjoyed, and the
conversation was upon the dangers of such a road, 150
miles costing the Government £300,000, to make a com
munication from the east coast to the west with its
goldfields. Starting again with a fresh team we passed
several lakes, one called Grassmere, and then came to
the Waimakarin river, which is from one to two miles
wide. Here the road, if worthy of being so called, was for
some distance in the bed of the river, and " rattled our
bones over the stones " with such internal concussions (read
infernal), that we concluded our mortal clay must be well
baked or it would have gone to pieces. At Cragieburn
another change of horses, and still continuing along the
Waimakarin river, sometimes hundreds of feet above, and
at others going along the bed of stones. The mountains
increased in height and grandeur with snow-caps and glaciers.
By practice our nerves became harder ; and although we
were in more dangerous places, our hearts were not so fre
quently in our mouths. About 8.30, after seeing the sun set
with various effects, we arrived just before dark at the
Bealey Accommodation House — a bungalow, with bedrooms
like ships' cabins. On entering we found a most acceptable
and large wood fire, also a good supper. Coaches coming
from the other side met here ; and fortunately we arrived

72 New Zealand.

first, and had the choice of bedrooms. The choice, however,
consisted in a small one, or none at all. About fifty people
were in the house with twelve bedrooms, consequently
many had to do without ; but they were as well off as those
with beds as far as sleep went, because there was such an
amount of talking and laughing that it was impossible to
sleep. All the anecdotes from Balaam and his ass to the
" Maori queen's stockings " were related, and were heard
by those in bed.
January 27th, Wednesday. — Soon after 3 A.M. there seemed
to be a general move. Some went to the river for a bath,
others used buckets of water in the road. A little after
4 breakfast was served, and at 5 o'clock we were in our
seats on the coach, and were introduced to our driver, a
Welshman— Arthur Davis— the best whip in New Zealand ;
a short, stout man, with a round, merry face and a pair of
laughing eyes, dressed in a Norfolk jacket, and crowned
with a bandit's hat. He called out " Hall aboard ? " and
with a shrill whistle and a crack of his long whip the
horses, five in number, started, after a few jumps and kicks,
at full gallop, cheered by his " Coey ! "
After going for half a mile we descended and crossed the
Waimakarin river by a winding ford over its rough bed a
distance of a mile or more ; and again our " bones rattled
over the stones," preparing us for a long, steep walk.
Our course now followed another river, until we reached
what seemed an impassable place — a cui de sac. Here our
coachman stopped and addressed his passengers : " Ladies
and gentlemen, when the Prince of Wales was here he said,
' The road we are now going is much better for the horses
if the passengers walk, and in fact we cannot get to the
top without,' so I suggest you should all follow the example
of the Prince of Wales " (who never was there). So out we

New Zealand.

73

turned, and walked up in the fresh, cold air, and admired
Mount Rolleston, which formed one side of the zigzag
(8,000 feet), and got our nearest view of the glacier. After
a long and heart-trying walk we arrived on the saddle, 3,020
feet (or the same height as Skiddaw), from which there was
a fine view down the Oteira, and backwards down the
Bealey, being surrounded by snow-capped mountains.
Our driver now with great care examined the harness
of each horse, as also their feet, then the wheels and brake,
giving the impression that some more than ordinary road
had to be travelled. Our journey has been so far on the

A

Snow-capped Mountains.
east side of the mountain Rolleston, with little or no
foliage, the mountains being quite bare; but now, looking
down on the western side, the trees and foliage are of the
richest description, the lower range of mountains being
clothed with huge trees. A large proportion are the Rata,
just now in full bloom with flowers of the brightest scarlet,
and the ribbon tree, with white flowers, mixed with the
New Zealand birch, having foliage more like our myrtle,
giving the richest hue to the Oteira Gorge. " Driver, how
deep is the valley just beneath where we are standing ? "
" Nearly 2,000 feet," was the reply. " Have we to
get down there ? " " Yes." " But how ? " " If you are

74 New Zealand.

patient for an hour you will see." We soon found out ; for
there is a narrow, winding road on the face of the mountain,
down which the coach-and-five went ; and many times,
when turning acute angles, we were only a few inches from
the shortest way to the bottom. If the narrow road down
which we travelled had given way, or one of the horses had
fallen, or a wheel had come off, or a trace had broken, our
chances would have had to be calculated. Some of the
turns were so sharp that the leaders disappeared from sight.
The horses were sent round at a good speed, or the coach
would not have turned in such a small space. The effect
on the coach was something like a ship when struck by a
heavy sea. It groaned, and seemed to shake from end to
end, an ordeal that struck terror into most of the passengers ;
and when the coach stopped opposite the Oteira Hotel every
one looked awe-stricken, and " gladly sorry and horribly
glad it was over." Davis, the driver, coolly remarked,
"After that you will be ready for some mutton chops,
which are provided by Mrs. Charles O'Malley." Many, how
ever, were unable to eat, being still in a state of " funk."
The scenery is magnificent, but the road cannot, we
think, be equalled for its nerve-trying features. After our
second breakfast, and with a fresh team, we had another
stage of 15 miles to "Jacks" through some wonderful
scenery. From Jacks we entered what is called the Twelve
Miles Avenue— a road through a forest of huge trees with
undergrowth of tree ferns from 2 feet to 25 feet, umbrella
ferns, and other kinds, only grown under glass in England.
It was a wonderful change from the former scenery, and
superbly beautiful. In all our travels we never saw a road
through such scenery ; it quite surpassed that of Norway
or Switzerland, and I think there is not such a coach drive
of 1 50 miles. We arrived at Kinnard about 3 o'clock— a

New Zealand.

75

gold-mining village, and very ugly, and there availed our
selves of a tram to go to Greymouth. Now this is an
original construction of wood, and goes through the bush
for 8 miles. The car is a wooden box, holding eight people ;
and is drawn by a horse. Halfway we came to a river
about a quarter of a mile wide, with banks 50 feet deep ;
across which a wire is stretched, and on this travels a cage
holding six persons. It was a curious sensation being

Crossing a River.

suspended over this large river; but we landed on the
other side all right, and found another tramcar which
took us to Greymouth, our resting-place for the night — a
welcome rest, too, for we were tired.
January 28th, Thursaay. — Spent the morning in Grey
mouth, a pretty little seaport on the west coast, and in
the afternoon went to Reefton by rail and coach, passing
a colliery village called " Wallsend." The line and coach
followed a river, some parts of which are very pretty, and
in the others the original bush still remains. Arriving at

76 New Zealand.

Reefton, a prosperous-looking mining town, where, for the
most part, all the men are gold diggers, we took up our
quarters at Stephenson's Hotel, and were called upon by
Mr. Lewis, manager of the New Zealand Banking Company,
who told us, among other things, that the excitement of a
digger's life is greater than that of horse-racing or gambling.
January 2gth, Friday. — It rained hard all night, but
fortunately cleared in the morning, and became a splendid
day without dust ; this was encouraging, for our coach
drive was to be over 60 miles. We started at 8.30 with
a fine team of four horses, and occupied the box-seat.
The first 15 miles were through the bush, with scarcely
a house or a human being or an animal of any kind in
sight ; only huge trees, with an abundant undergrowth of
ferns of all kinds. Then we forded several creeks. In some
places the water was rather deep, and the large stones at
the bottom gave the coach some awful jumps. A lady was
thrown from her seat, because she was too proud to hold
on. Fortunately for her she was not much the worse, but
it might have proved serious. It quite took the pride out
of her, and she held tight the remainder of the way.
After the 15 miles we came to the " Inarghua," a fine
and picturesque river, which had to be crossed by the coach,
horses, and passengers in a boat at a deep place. The
sensation was curious, sitting on a coach, sailing in a boat.
For this luxury each person had to pay 6d., and the coach
and horses $s. The river continued to flow and wind its
way through a thickly wooded gorge, with the road some
times on the same level, and at others 400 or 500 fee^
above. In the woods we got some lovely views. On
nearing Lyell the river runs into the Buller, forming a
mighty stream. At the junction there is a house where we
dined, and then continued for 30 miles through the cele-

New Zealand. 77

brated Buller Gorge, and at 8 o'clock arrived at Longford,
a solitary house in the bush, where we spent the night.
January 30th. Saturday. — We rose soon after 5, and
started at 6.30 for another 60 miles' drive, the first 12
miles being still in the Buller Gorge, until arriving at
" Hope Junction," when we turned to the left and followed
that river for 1 5 miles, and then ascended the " Hope
Saddle," 2,000 feet, which had to be walked for the most
part. How horses could pull up a coach over such a
road is a wonder ; but the teams are first-rate, and would
not discredit Rotten Row. We descended into the valley of
Manikupitu, and found our dining-place at 2.30, — a public-
house standing quite alone, with its solitary proprietor, a
good-looking Bushman, who lost his wife, and now lives
without a companion or servant. He has to look after eight
coach horses and a couple of cows, make the butter, cook a
dinner three times a week for the coach passengers, serve
his customers with drinks, etc., etc. When we arrived he
took the horses out of the coach, invited the ladies to a
room, served a dinner for seventeen, consisting of a fine
piece of ribs of beef and sago pudding, a cup of tea each,
and then put four fresh horses into the coach in 25 minutes !
We gave him credit for being a wonderful man, and hope
he may soon find a helpmate.
Another 2 hours' spin over a saddle from which a fine
view was obtained brought us to Bellgrave, a pretty village,
with hop gardens and fruit orchards reminding us of Kent.
Here we took a train through a fertile valley with corn
fields in the midst of harvest, and hops and fruit in abun
dance, a few hours later reaching the prosperous city
of Nelson, where no one is in a hurry — it has earned the
name of " Sleepy Hollow." Being the eve of its jubilee,
which commences to-morrow, although the city is full, or

78 New Zealand.

rather crowded with people, we secured a bedroom through
some influence, but only for one night, so arranged to
depart by a steamer in the morning. .
A walk round the city, including a visit to the Cathedral,
which, like Noah's Ark, is built of wood, filled up • the
evening with the aid of seeing shops ; some were very large
and elegant and well-lighted. The streets were crowded
with well-dressed young men and women evidently bent
on pleasure. In front of the Cathedral, which stands upon
a hill at the end of the main street, was an illumination,
" Jubilee." January 3\st, Sunday. — We had another look round the
pretty city surrounded by mountains, and at the head of
a bay nearly circular, with an outlet to the sea. At
IO o'clock we started in the Managana for Picton, and
enjoyed a most charming sail along the coast until we
reached the French pass, a small opening between the
mainland and an island about 30 yards wide, with a
tide rushing through ; it was like shooting a rapid. We
then entered Queen Charlotte and Pectoris Sounds, which
much resembled the Soigne Fiord in Norway ; at the end
of this sound we became quite landlocked, and then found
the sheltered and secluded town of Picton, called " Picton
the Beautiful." It is a busy little place, being the market
town for a large district, where much fruit and flowers are
grown. At 6 o'clock we sailed again for Wellington,
and went through another sound into Cook's Straits,
separating the South from the North Islands, where there
is a strong tide, with a good roll. At 1 2 o'clock we landed
at Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, and found the
Masonic Hotel. Our trip through the South or Cold
Island was most successful and enjoyable, the weather
being perfect, and the climate fit for the gods.

VII.
NEW ZEALAND— NORTH ISLAND— MAORI
COUNTR Y.

CHAPTER VII.
NEW ZEALAND— NORTH ISLAND— MAORI
COUNTRY.
WE were much struck with the magnificent harbour.
It is completely landlocked, forming an immense
basin surrounded by high hills, and is calculated to hold
all the fleets of the world. The " Empire City," as it
is called, occupies the side farthest from Cook's Straits.
The wharves are extensive ; and on account of the deep
water, the largest ship can moor alongside. The warehouses
for wool, flax, and grain, the Custom Houses, Post Office,
and two long business streets occupy the flat portion of the
city, while the residences of the inhabitants are studded
about the hills and gullies. There is a fine Hospital, Lunatic
Asylum, and some churches belonging to different de
nominations. Government House is not a striking place,
and the Parliament buildings are only poor ; but when
it is considered that these are, for the most part, of
wood and plaster, there is not much with which to find
fault. The most striking object is a new prison, being built
of red brick on the top of a hill by the prisoners. It is.

82 New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.

a conspicuous object, suggesting that when a man descends
to crime, he is exalted to prison.
This city is well up in all the improvements of the age,
the town being lighted by the electric light, and the tele
phone being general.
There are all kinds of amusements, for with the short
hours of labour the people have much spare time. In
summer cricket and football are indulged in, and in winter
theatres and other places of amusement are provided.

Wellington.
Most people work from 8 until 5 o'clock, with an hour
for dinner, and the shops close at 6 o'clock.
This afternoon we saw for the first time two Maori
ladies. They wore garments like opera-cloaks, of thick
wool, large red and yellow check about 2 inches square,
and red stockings. They had dark, restless eyes, with the
glitter of a rattlesnake ; their mouths were capacious, like
a codfish or a coalscuttle ; their lips as thick as a penny
roll, covered with lines and patterns from the nose to the

New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. 83

chin, and as blue as turquoise. This tattoo colour is
obtained from a shell-fish, but as Maori girls and boys
do not kiss it is of little consequence.
We visited a Maori " Antica " shop, which is principally
patronised by Maoris who sell and others who buy. The
prices seem exorbitant : an old rug 80/., and a green stone,
about 12 inches long, 250/. We saw one which two
daughters claimed ; and as it was impossible to satisfy

Maori Men and Women.

both, they had it cut down the centre at a considerable
cost. The keeper of the shop is Mr. D  , from Sheffield,
who related some strange tales about these people. We
bought some fruit — peaches and nectarines at 4d. per pound
— for our journey to-morrow.
February 2nd, Tuesday.- — We were up at 5 o'clock and
walked to the station — the train starting at 6.30 — for cabs
are unreliable so early. The train wound its way through
mountains and over some desperate -looking places, which

84 New Zealand— North Island — Maori Country.
were nothing to our now tutored nerves. About 7.30 we
retired to the feeding car and had a good solid breakfast
of mutton chops, tea, and marmalade.
Our way for many miles was through the bush, some
being cleared, some partly so, and some remained in its
pristine beauty. All the stations bore Maori names ; on
the platforms were Maoris of all sizes, from men 6 feet
in height to babies 15 inches, and Maori women selling
fruit which they do not grow. Many of them were hideous-
looking, with their naturally ugly faces and tattoos. Most
of the women were as fat as pigs, with greater diameter
than height, and mouths looking powerful enough to worry
anything, even each other, which they did some years ago,
when white folk could not be found. Not knowing the use
of salt, when a victim turned up he or she had to be
consumed, so nature provided a great capacity. This is
continued, for they won't now use a grain of salt, not even
the cum grano satis. A family thinks nothing of eating
a sheep in one day, and not much cooked, either,
Mr. D  asked an old man if he knew anything about
a man named Flinton. He replied, " I did a little, for I ate
him." These strange people don't like work, but many
are fond of whiskey and tobacco, and will soon improve
themselves off the face of this fine country, — and the
sooner the better.
A journey through the bush is not exhilarating. Some
times you see miles of dead trees, brought about by cutting
a ring in the bark ; in other places immense fires smoke
like a battle-field, while in others the trees have been
blown down, and are lying in the greatest confusion,
with here and there a bush house, in which bushmen
and their families live, many of them sons of English
gentlemen.

New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. 85
At a station in these districts a most elegant young-
married woman, with a little boy, got into the train. She
must have been an inhabitant of one of these log houses, for
there were no others. Her costume was of the latest fashion,
being quite up to Rotten Row, with a smart bonnet
covering a Grecian blonde face, primrose kid gloves, and
a white parasol. She got out at the market town of
Palmerston North, with a long list for purchases, and had
a return ticket.
We passed through the Manawattu gorge, where is
splendid river scenery, and a tribute to engineering skill.
Farther on our journey we came into more fertile and
cultivated country, with large sheep stations, good horses,
and everything pointing to prosperity. We arrived at
Napier soon after 6 o'clock, feeling rather tired with our
200 miles' journey, but quite ready for a good dinner at the
Masonic Hotel.
February 3rd, Wednesday. — After a good night's rest we
saw a most perfect sunrise at 5 o'clock from our bedroom
window. The sun rose out of the sea into a cloudless sky
with great colour and striking effect. In front of our
window was a fine balcony the whole length of the house,
12 feet wide, fitted up with chairs and tables, and facing
the sea, which has been a great delight during two
or three of the hottest hours in the middle of the day.
Napier is a most charming place, with splendid shops,
warehouses, banks, and other fine buildings, including a
very pretty Cathedral built of red brick and stone, from
a good design, and one that would do credit to any com
munity. These are built on a level facing the sea, while
the residences, which for the most part are very pretty, with
well-kept gardens, stand on the hills and gullies. In the
front of the town, and facing the sea, is a fine promenade,

86 New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.
nearly two miles long, built by prison labour, which is not
yet completed, as the prisoners were at work.
During the morning we visited a wool sale, which was
a most spirited affair, and found some buyers from Brad
ford and Keighley. About two miles from here is the Spit
Hawk's Bay, the shipping port, with large warehouses
and good quays. This is considered the best agricultural
district of New Zealand, and seems in all particulars
a prosperous place. Fruit is much grown, and is very
cheap — peaches, apricots, nectarines, figs, greengages, and
plums, all in perfection.
We have spent a most pleasant day, and cannot speak
too highly of the Masonic Hotel and its host.
¦ February 4th, Thursday. — Rose at 5 o'clock and again saw
the sun rise ; had breakfast at 6 o'clock, and started for
a long drive on a coach, 54 miles, to Taraweed. It was
a light coach with four horses, holding five persons, each
restricted to 20 lb. of luggage. The first part of the
journey was round the " Spit," and over a bridge 600 yards
long, then by the side of Hawk's Bay for 6 miles until we
reached a river. Then came a new experience, for our
" trac " was up. the bed of the river, sometimes in the water,
and at others going over large stones and rocks, shaking
our insides, until we felt something must give way. We
crossed and re-crossed 47 times in 10 miles, and had the
water frequently up to the bottom of the coach. The
sides of the river are high banks, with, in many places,
beautiful weeping willow trees, and in others high rocks.
The mountains seem to overhang the river, forming a close
gorge. At the head of the river the " trac " was up the
face of a mountain to a saddle 2,900 feet in height. It was
a hard pull up, but from the top there was a splendid view.
Although we had travelled 30 miles, Napier and Hawk's

New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. 87
Bay could be seen, as it were, at our feet, and over the
plains for long distances. Descending we came upon a lake,
and a flock of 4,000 sheep being moved to another run by
four men on horseback and twelve dogs, who had them in
charge. It was a most interesting sight.
We continued in the wildest mountain scenery all day,
with the exception of twenty minutes for lunch at a
solitary house. We overtook a cavalcade of horses laden
with sacks of corn, in the charge of Maori men, with their
brown faces and gay clothes. It suggested Joseph and his
brethren, who, of course, were brown. A little farther on
we saw some of the ladies on horseback with their gaudy
cloaks ; one had a child in front. They did not use side
saddles, because these ladies ride after the same fashion as
men. After climbing two more saddles nearly as high as the
first, and descending into the valleys, we reached Taraweed,
a decent sort of stopping place in a most picturesque
situation, but without any luxuries.
February $th, Friday. — Soon after 5 o'clock we were
astir, and rain was just " blowing up," as the people say in
the mountains. At 7 o'clock the coach started without
other passengers, so we had the pleasure of a private conr
veyance ; the sun had broken out, and everything looked
charming and felt fresh.
The first ten miles were through the mountains — some
times crossing high passes, and at others through deep
valleys full of ferns and quick-running rivers. After crossing
the last pass, we descended to a plain, on the opposite side
of which we expected to find Lake Taupo. It was an arid
and desolate-looking country, composed of grey sand and
pumice stone, with very little traces of vegetation, only
patches of Minuka tree, which is regarded as a weed.

88 New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.
The prospect of thirty miles of this did not seem inviting,
but had to be got over ; fortunately there was not any dust.
With one exception, we saw neither man, house, nor animal
of any kind ; the only living thing being an occasional bird.
The exception was when about half-way across we came
to a river and a station for changing horses and taking in
a little lunch. Here were a few animals, both human and
otherwise. Having a few minutes to spare, we adjourned
to the river, into which a stone was thrown, giving us the
first Antipodean experience. It is said cherry stones grow
on the outside of the fruit, etc., in this country ; and in
England we say " sink " like a stone. Here this did not
happen, for the stone came to the top and floated away.
We tried some very large ones with the same result, and
then Had stone races in the stream. Needless to say this
was pumice stone.
Another 15 miles of most interesting driving brought
us to the hills again, and after a sharp ascent we obtained
a good view of Lake Taupo. Another hour of up and
down hill landed us at the Terrace Hotel, from which we
had a splendid view of Lake Taupo, 15 miles wide and
24 long. On the opposite shore are two active volcanoes,
Tongariro and Ngawrihoe.
This hotel is built with two fronts. At the one farthest
from the lake there is a gorge about 100 feet deep, from
which arises steam. A footpath soon introduces you to
the first of the many wonders to be seen in this neighbour
hood. On reaching the bottom we saw some terraces of
all colours — pink, green, red, and white, from which boiling
hot water was running, having been emitted from thirty
different orifices ; the flow is continuous, and a large
volume of steam is given off. Two baths about 15
feet square have been erected, and the water allowed to

New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. 89

cool. We were not long in availing ourselves of these hot
baths for refreshment before dinner.
The sunset over the lake was very effective, and later
the moonlight gave another picture, making us feel, like
Mr. Middlewick's son, that all had been turned on for us
to-day. February 6th, Saturday. — Rose early, and with the rest
of the household considered the question of baths, as some
difficulty was experienced when a dozen people wanted to
have a bath at one time.
After breakfast we went to see a Maori pah, or village,
by the side of the lake. All the wharrys, that is houses,
stood on legs about 6 feet high ; some already in the
water, and canoes for use when required. A walk of 2
miles brought us to the township of Taupo, with its hotel,
post-office, and store. We saw three young Maori girls
on horseback, — of course without side-saddles, — and met
them afterwards in the post-office, when they had fastened
their gaudy skirts round the neck, and exhibited some
good understandings with shoes and stockings. We learnt
that all single women ride on horseback astride, but when
married they are expected to use side-saddles, and that
they frequently marry very young ; also that a man may
have several wives if he can keep them.
After lunch we took a carriage and visited the place
where the river Waikato leaves the lake, and, following its
banks, came to the rapids, where the river rushes between
confined rocks, and then falls about 50 feet. It reminded
us of Lerfoss in Norway. The river is particularly grand,
there being fine views from an elevated road of the Huka
falls. About 3 miles farther brought us to Wairakei, which
is renowned for its hot springs, geysers, mud holes, blue

90 New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.

lake, etc. It is a place with some trees and grass, and the
hotel is a one-story Maori " wharry," now divided by reeds
into four rooms, and a dining-room in the centre ; the roof
and sides are constructed of flax, which makes it look like
a haystack with windows. There are some other buildings,
one containing a drawing-room
and nine bedrooms. On arrival
all were invited to take a hot
bath, which is in the garden, —
the ladies went there ; and we
had a hot natural waterfall
bath, — quite a new sensation
to stand under a waterfall of
real hot water coming down
a small river.
During the evening we went
out to witness the transit of
Jupiter and Venus. A Yankee
said it was 1,600 years since
the performance took place,
and he calculated we won't see
it again in a hurry.
February 7th, Sunday. —
Being some miles away from
a church or chapel, and six from the nearest house, there
was left to us the admiration of nature and God's wonderful
works only, on one of the finest possible days, with a
cloudless sky. The proceedings commenced with baths,
breakfast at 8.30, and at 9 o'clock we went to the top of a
hill to see a volcano in active operation ; then we walked
through a valley to see the " Great Champagne Caldron," a
turbulent and active geyser in a constant state of ebullition.
Presenting the appearance of new champagne, it gave off

A Geyser.

New Zealand—North Island — Maori Country. 91
a rich bouquet of sulphurous steam, frequently so hot that
we had to retire. The brand was "Satanic"! Near this
place is a mud geyser where, eighteen months ago, a Maori
horse with two packs of flour and a bag of sugar on its
back was walking, when the ground gave way and all
disappeared. Our next sights were the great Wairakei in eruption
every seven minutes, rising to a height of 50 feet ; the
Donkey Engine, a steam hole, making a noise like an
engine ; the Fairies' Baths, three hot pools of delicate
tints, all different though quite close together ; the Cas
cade Geyser, or dragon's mouth, so called from its formation
of pink scinto, its boiling waters flowing over pink en
crusted rocks, forming cascades ; the Lightning pool has
the appearance of flashes of lightning in rapid succession
coming up through the boiling water ; the Black Geyser,
so called from the scinto formation of manganese mineral
deposit ; mud geysers of various tints and delicate hues ;
the Blue Lake, the only coloured boiling lake said to
exist, resembling that on the White Terrace of Rotomana,
now extinct ; the Oil Bath, or Muddy Pool, with an oily
substance floating on1 its surface ; the Eagles' Nest, an
active geyser playing up through petrified sticks ; the
Devil's Punch Bowl ; the Boilers ; the Prince of Wales'
Feathers ; the Mirror ; the Twin Geysers, two beautiful
geysers playing alternately every five or six minutes, the
water flowing over a unique specimen of terrace formation ;
the Coral Geyser, a deep red formation ; the Green Pool ;
the Terekereke Geyser, a turbulent active geyser with
much steam.
All these geysers are boiling, and emit a large volume of
steam which can be seen for miles, and smelt also. They
are far too hot to approach closely. Words fail to describe

92 New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.
these sights, so awfully grand and awe-inspiring; the mind
cannot help thinking what may happen any day.
Last night we heard there was a slight earthquake, but
our slumbers were undisturbed. We returned to our
wharry about i o'clock, and had a good dinner, after rest
ing till 4, when it became cooler ; and, having partaken of
afternoon tea, which much refreshed us, we started for the

A Maori Pah, or Village.

Great Blowhole, or Devil's Trumpet, 3 miles west from
here. It has been calculated that the emission of steam
is at a pressure of 180 lb. to the square inch, through an
aperture of 1 2 inches, and is the safety valve of this district.
We threw in stones and sticks, which were immediately
sent up into the air ; also a parasol, which rose up like a
balloon. February 8th, Monday. — Rose early, had another waterfall

New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. 93
bath, and prepared for starting at 8 o'clock for a coach
ride of 54 miles.
What we saw yesterday has much impressed us, and
given a good idea of what a volcanic country means in the
Southern Hemisphere. All this emission of boiling water
forms a river which runs into the Green hot lakes, and then,
after cooling a little, forms another river running into the
Waikato, and finds its way to the sea.
A gentleman on the coach, who had come from near the
eruption in Dong, told us that the earthquake was rather
severe, and the outburst was large, sending sand and
pumice-stone over 20 miles.
We left Wairakei with some regret, having been com
fortable and very much interested. Our drive was through
a desolate, mountainous country, without houses or cattle
for many miles, until we came upon a Maori pah, where the
prophet lives. We saw his wife, a tall, stout old woman,
dressed in white, but with such a face !
On the hill opposite is the Maori cemetery, with graves
railed round, painted white. About half-way was the
station, for changing horses and taking in refreshment on
the banks of the Waikato. Continuing a rather uninterest
ing ride without passing a soul or an animal, we arrived at
this place Rotorua about 5.30, and found a most comfort
able home in the Lake Hotel. A natural hot bath and
dinner were most acceptable.
This is a Maori village on the shores of Lake Rotorua,
and is known here as Ohinemutu. It is a most picturesque
place, but its surroundings do not commend to your mind
so close a proximity to the (infernal) internal arrangements.
All over the village are active geysers from which steam
and boiling water issue. Anywhere you can establish
your own geyser by working with a stick for five minutes.

94 New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.
A lady and gentleman recounted to us the effects of the
earthquake, which destroyed the terraces on the other side
of the lake, and killed Mr. Bainbridge, of Newcastle, as well
as doing many other dreadful things, working up the imagi
nation and nervous system to a high tension, when a storm

Ohinemutu and Lake Rotorua.
of lightning, thunder, rain, and wind broke over us : a real
one that made all shake, and brought a fit of terror upon
us, because the great eruptions always commence with
thunderstorms. Fatigue, however, sent us to bed, with the
expectation of being, like a Cockle's pill, swallowed before
morning.

New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. 95
February gth, Tuesday. — Not much sleep during the
night, for the noise and rain, but we were still on the upper
crust. About 9 o'clock the rain cleared off, and we started
to investigate the place.
It appears this is all Maori property, the population for
the most part being Maori, with houses planted in or near
geysers, which are used by the occupants for cooking ; and
in winter, instead of sitting by the fire, a mud-hole is
resorted to. It seems quite comical the way in which the
people sit with only their heads out of the ground.
By the side of the lake we met some girls ; one said she
spoke English, and entertained us. Their costumes were
rather gay, one having a pink Garibaldi. The question
was asked them whether there were any fish in the lake.
The reply was, " Yes, gold-fish ; me get one." Without
any ceremony the English-speaking damsel quickly de
nuded herself of her clothes, and jumped into the lake ;
the venture was, however, unsuccessful, as far as the fish
went, but threepence rewarded her efforts.
We saw several groups of men and women playing at
pitch-and-toss for money. All were smoking either pipes
or cigarettes. This is a common occupation, as work is
not part of their calling.
We were amused to see a woman boiling her kettle in a
geyser, and cooking potatoes in a hole in the ground,
where also the bread is baked, if such a name can be given
to the compound.
On a peninsula going out into the lake is a rather pretty
wooden church, and behind it is a cemetery, now closed on
account of the fevers which arose, for the dead were laid
just under the surface ; some had steam blowholes through
the graves. There are headstones railed round, and the
steam blowing out produces a curious effect.

96 New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.
Marriage is, it appears, a simple process here, little more
than providing for the wife, who may be 1 2 or 13 years old ;
but to get a divorce is more difficult, for the whole tribe
has to pay a fine to the nearest tribe, and the offending
husband or wife is expected to contribute a substantial
part of it.
To-day we drove to Tikitere, on the opposite side of the
lake, to see some wonderful boiling alum springs and a hot
waterfall ; also some mud geysers, one specially active
Then we ascended a hill where there is a fine view of two
lakes — one cold, blue, and the other hot, green. Returning
we called at a burying-place in the wild scrub, which consists
of sweet-briar, rose trees, and ferns, to see the resting-place
of some who were killed in the eruption of 1886. There is
an obelisk erected to the memory of Edwin Bainbridge, of
Newcastle-on-Tyne, who was killed. The landlord of the
hotel — " The Lake " — was close to him at the awful
moment when the house fell, and Joseph McRae lost his
house and property worth £6,000, but had his life spared.
In his present house he runs the risk of another earthquake,
being surrounded by hot springs.
Although the scenery from his house is so lovely, there
is a strong smell of the infernal regions, in the shape of
sulphur, pervading the whole district.
February 10th, Wednesday. — An early bath, and a start
soon after 7 o'clock, with a carriage and a pair of willing
horses, on a fine morning, is not depressing ; but a ride
through a mountainous country devoid of vegetation and
life becomes tiring after 20 miles. About 11 o'clock we
arrived at Waiotapu, and were met by the Maori pro
prietor, who showed us boiling pools, mud pools, volcanoes,
green, blue, and many-coloured lakes.
Near here is a long rift with earth about 100 feet deep

New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. 97

and 200 or 300 wide, with pure white alum cliffs and
incipient terraces. One is now becoming considerable,
and gives some idea of the formation of the celebrated
white and pink terraces destroyed in 1886. There are also
fine specimens of sulphur crystallisations of various colours.
This place also suffered at the time of the 1886 eruptions.
It is sad to see the effect
of such destruction.
Our guide gave us
some account of the
awful night of 1S86.
He and his brother and
sisters were in the house
when the eruption com
menced, and in their
fear ran away. One of
the sisters crossed upon
unsafe ground, and fell
through ; three weeks
afterwards the brother
found her head above
the ground, but her
body had gone. He
also lost two or three
children. This guide, his brother, and sister are splendid-
looking people, about 6 feet in height.
After hearing these sad accounts, and seeing so many
wonders, we lunched in the guide's house, a most picturesque-
looking structure, and then started to visit the place where
the terraces were supposed to have stood. With our nerves
well strung up we proceeded on the way, passing blowholes,
" Hell's Gate," and all sorts of awful-looking places, when
a vivid flash of lightning and a clap of thunder suggested 7

A Maori Chief.

98 New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.
something horrible, so we determined to return to Ohine-
mutu. The discomfort of wet clothes during a four
hours' ride quite restored the nerves and prepared us for
the " cure all " of this place — a native hot bath and dry
clothes. The inhabitants of Ohinemutu are fond of amusements.
A ball was announced for the evening, to which we went ;
but on arrival found it to be a roller-skate carnival,
followed a week afterwards by a ball. These functions are
held in a spacious wooden building with an excellent floor.
There was a gathering of all the Maori youth and beauty,
dressed in the loudest colours. Most of the girls were
smoking cigarettes, for pipes on their festive occasions are
not permitted. Every girl and boy had skates on ; many
were quite proficient in the art. We were invited to join
in the sport, but being the only whites present, modesty,
combined with a little consideration for age, prevented our
accepting the offer. The sight was novel in the extreme,
to see such brown faces and gaudy costumes ; however, the
greatest decorum prevailed, as the master of the ceremonies
did his duty.
We were specially favoured with moonlight. The moon
rose on the opposite side of the lake, and shone brightly on
the still waters.
February nth, Thursday.— After breakfast we visited the
Government Sanatorium, established for the administration
of the thermal waters of this district. The building is very
pretty and most convenient, and can provide for twenty-one
patients. Dr. Ginders was not at home ; but the matron,
Miss Birch, showed us all over the place. The grounds
cover a good many acres, and contain natural springs of
hot waters of various kinds as well as geysers and mud-
holes. In former times the invalid pitched his tent, and

New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. 99
found out the most suitable spring for his particular com
plaint. The names of the principal baths are taken from
these pioneers — for instance, the Cameron's Bath, McHugh
Baths, Mackenzie's Bath, and the Priest's Bath ; which
remind one of the fact that when Christopher Columbus
discovered America he found a Scotchman there.
The Sanatorium Baths are splendidly arranged into a
series of large swimming baths and smaller private ones,
as the quantity of boiling water is unlimited, and has to
be exposed for cooling. There is also a natural sulphur
vapour bath, which is over a sulphur blowhole, in the
form of a box with the lid off; inside it is thickly coated
with sulphur deposited by the vapour. In a separate
building is a bath which attracts patronage — Rachel's
Bath, or " Beautiful for ever." In the description we find
the following : " The delicious sense of the bien etre
produced by bathing in this water, with the soft satiny
feeling it communicates to the skin, must be felt to be
appreciated." It removes freckles, wrinkles, sunburn, and
all traces of decaying nature ; in fact, these baths are
the marvel of the world. A few days' sojourn here gives
an idea of the value of the baths in local estimation.
Some of them re-liver, others put rheumatism and sciatica
to flight ; while some would, if you had faith, restore the
circulation in a wooden leg. A gentleman who had come
from London, with whom we had sailed, expected a cure
for paralysis, but had to leave this week because the place
did not suit him.
In the afternoon we went to Whakarewarema river — such
a nice name ! — to see some wonderful geysers sending up
boiling water 50 feet, and a white terrace with blowholes,
etc, The river is a mountain stream flowing quickly over
rocks, and at a point runs into a considerable pool, which

ioo New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.
would not attract attention but from the fact that every
fifteen minutes there is a blow up of about a ton of black
earth from the bottom to 10 feet above the surface, which
in two minutes is repeated, and then rests a quarter of an
hour. This show place is the property of the Maoris, who
live in considerable numbers on the ground. We saw them
boiling potatoes in a geyser and cooking meat in a blowhole.

A Maori Wharry or House.
Our guide was a swell young married woman with
gaudy clothes, bare feet, and elaborate tattoos. She spoke
a little English.
Bullock-waggons are much used in these districts ; we
saw one with splendid bullocks. It was a fine sight. The
animals seemed quite docile, and did not object to the
work. The driver rode on horseback, and directed the
bullocks with a long whip. At night they are turned
loose, and the driver sleeps under the waggon.

New Zealand — North Island— Maori Country. 101
When in the bush we overtook a party of fourteen
Maoris — ladies and gentlemen — on horseback, on pleasure
bent. They were dressed in European style, with many
colours, their dark faces being in good contrast to white
tulle hats. Evidently these people are rich, and enjoy
themselves, but they smoke too much. We also saw one
of the Maori nabobs at Rotorua ; his costume was comical.
To begin at his " pate " : he wore a very high, old-fashioned,
narrow7brimmed hat, a black dress-coat and vest, without
a shirt or collar, then a large check black-and-white woollen
shawl pinned round his waist, with neither shoes nor stock
ings upon his peduncular extensions. Height over 6 feet ;
estimated weight 25 stone ; colour nearly black.
February 1 2th, Friday. — We rose early and prepared for
a long journey, starting in a buggy with a pair of horses
at 8 o'clock. We soon got out of " hot water," and at
the end of 10 miles were in the bush — splendid trees and
ferns, with a great deal of sweet-briar bushes, about 10 feet
high, covered with red berries, and giving, in the cool
morning air, a delicious fragrance. We continued in the
bush for 8 miles, and then got into what is known as the
Oxford Forest. The road is on a ridge about 700 or
800 feet above the valley on each side, and in some places
is very narrow.' One side of this valley is quite barren,
while the other is filled with stately trees, with a river at
the bottom. This continues for about 10 miles, and is
awfully grand. Descending to the valley and crossing the
river brought us to Oxford, which does not resemble in
any particular our university city ; except there was at the
hotel a black parson, who was going to hold a service on
Sunday in the dining-room. The town boasts of one hotel
and five houses, and about a mile away a railway station.
We dined at the hotel at 2 o'clock, then left for Auckland

102 New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.
by an especially slow train, which goes three times a week,
passing Cambridge, which is even smaller than Oxford.
For some distance we travelled along the banks of the
Waikato river, said to be the finest in New Zealand.
About 8.30 we reached Auckland, well tired.
February 13th, Saturday. — We are now located in the
Grand Hotel, Auckland, which is built of brick and stone,
and have spent some time in arranging our luggage, which
met us here like an old friend. Wooden houses and little
encumbrance have been our portion lately.
February 14th, Sunday. — We found our way to St. Mat
thew's Church, where there is a good service, and then had
a walk through the park, which commands a fine view of this
beautiful city and harbour. The parson said he was going
to read a sermon preached by a learned English divine
on the Epistle of the day, and did not wish to claim it
as his own. Would that others would follow his example !
February i^th, Monday. — We visited the free library and
museum : both of these institutions contain many valuable
contributions by a former governor, Sir George Grey, who
has left his mark in New Zealand. The collection of
Maori curiosities is most interesting, and will be more so
in consequence of these people abandoning their former
mode of life, and becoming Anglicised, even to drinking
whiskey. There are also many things from the South Sea
Islands, Fiji and Sandwich Islands, and others quite
unique. Auckland is the finest city in New Zealand, with a
population of 60,000. It has wide streets, and buildings of
brick and stone, giving an idea of more solidity and finish
when compared with any of the other cities.
With the intention of seeing as much as possible in a
short time, we ascended Mount Eden, about 1,000 feet in

New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. 103
height, a volcanic elevation with an extinct crater at its
apex, in a very perfect condition. From its highest point
there is an unequalled panorama stretching from the sea on
the east to the sea on the west. On the east is the city
with its harbour, covering many miles, presenting the
appearance of an inland lake, surrounded by hills, with an
outlet to the sea, protected by Barrier Island standing
across the entrance. There are many handsome villa
residences, with stately trees and shrubs adorning the
banks : this, with the blue water, gives the idea of a fancy
picture. Turning to the west is the harbour of Onehunga,
spreading over a large expanse, with some of its arms
nearly joining those of Auckland. One day, no doubt, the
work of uniting them will be accomplished, when money is
more plentiful, because it will effect a saving of 100 miles
to Sydney, and 200 to west-coast ports. Both on the north
and on the south are plains with mountains in the back
ground. We were delighted with this natural panorama, and
were loth to leave it. One conspicuous object in the land
scape was the hospital, a very large building upon the knoll
of a hill.
For the most part people do not live in the city proper,
but in villas in the suburbs. Many of these villas are
in creeks running from the harbour, with very beautiful
gardens, where all kinds of fruit and tropical plants and
shrubs seem to flourish : in fact, the place is a paradise.
February 16th, Tuesday. — We started early for Lake
Takapima in a steamer, crossing the harbour to the village
of Devonport, where is the signal station for ships, then
went in a coach 5 miles to the lake, passing many pretty
places and seeing views. The lake is circular with high
banks covered with trees and shrubs, being about a mile

104 New Zealand — North Island — Maori Country.
in diameter, and is an extinct crater. There are a fine
hotel and many pretty residences. Although only about
iOO yards from the sea, the water is fresh, and though at a
lower level, has a higher temperature, due, no doubt, to
volcanic influences.
Having packed up our baggage and dined, we went to
the steamer to sail for Sydney, 1,200 miles, regretting
very much leaving New Zealand, where we had so much
pleasure. The head waiter at the Grand Hotel, hearing us speaking
of Scarborough, asked permission to make a few inquiries,
as he was brought up at Hutton Buscel, and knew many
persons in Scarborough and the district. He was delighted
to hear of people he knew, but was afraid, after an absence
of thirty years, few would remember him.
The steamer Wairarapa, with the number of people on
board, was like a penny show at a fair, and became quite
overpowering, as the visitors were not rung off till 10 o'clock
— an hour late. The sky was cloudless with a full moon ;.
the spectacle was very pretty. There being so many pas
sengers and no opposition to the Union Steam Company,
the managers do as they please. Four were packed in a
small cabin intended for two, and hot as an oven. This
we did not like, but there being no alternative, matters
were soon settled ; for all the cabin lights were put out at
1 1 o'clock — everything being carried out with a high hand
— port holes were closed, skylights shut, all fresh air was
excluded, and the passengers left to '' stew in their own
juice."

VIII.
NEW SOUTH WALES.

CHAPTER VIII.
NEW SOUTH WALES.
PEBRUARY 17th, Wednesday. — -We rose early after an
uncomfortable night, still living, at the same time not
relishing the idea of four more such nights. Fortunately it
is the last voyage in this company's ships. Both the ships
and the monopoly are overcrowded ; yet, strange to say,
the New Zealanders are proud of this line, which they
consider the finest in the world.
The weather was most charming; but the sea, with a rather
heavy ground swell, was disturbing in its effects upon the
" innards " of those not educated, reducing considerably the
number of promenaders.
We have been sailing along the coast of the North Island
all day, and passed the town of Russell, the last on the
North, also the North Cape with its lighthouses, and now
have left behind a cluster of thirteen islands, called the
" Three Kings " — the last we shall see of New Zealand, a
country to be remembered with much pleasure. Several
sharks have been visible during the day, looking out, it is
supposed, for any one dropping overboard. One called
forth some sympathy, poor thing, being, like Caesar, dead !

108 New South Wales.
It had died or been killed, and, like Shakespeare's beetle,
would realise whether " the sense of death is most in
apprehension." Nobody seemed afraid, though within a
few yards of this monster of the deep !
February \8th, Thursday. — We are getting used to our
hot cabins, taking to them as a cucumber to a frame. It is
a splendid day, with a swell on the sea. Nothing of interest
occurred, except the sight of passing a vessel under full sail.
February igth, Friday. —
" A life on the ocean wave,
A home on the rolling deep,
Where the scattered waters rave,
And the winds their revels keep.''
This is quite in accordance with the present (Pacific)
ocean. On board is the Reverend Canon C  , who has
raised the ire of many of the passengers, in consequence of
the time he occupies the bath — three-quarters of an hour !
— keeping every one waiting. We told him that if his
sermons were as long as his bath, his congregation indeed
deserved pity. We don't know how he stood the amount
of chaff received this morning. To-morrow it may get
beyond a joke, for he is in danger of being dubbed a K.C.B.
by being kept there.
In our cabin of four we have a Frenchman who cannot
speak a word of English. Poor man ! the situation does not
suit his tastes. He reminds us of an old French friend,
with his antics, and bothered us much with his impedimenta,
having sundry bags and flimsy packages : one a green bag
containing about a dozen new shirts, which seems a white
elephant to him. It occupies a place in his berth, and when
he gets in, it is a question where to stow it ; sometimes he
places it at his feet, sometimes at his back, and so on. Then
he has a brown-holland bag hanging on a hook, swinging

New South I Vales. 109
with the ship, which, in the dark, looks like some one moving
about, tempting one to call out, " Who's there ? " It was
wicked, but we were tempted to examine the contents of
this tormentor, finding what we least expected — six grand
chapeaux. What a brain it must be to require six such
coverings — a large green helmet, a pith hat with a brim
wide enough to cover a whole family, a Panama straw, a
felt, an opera, a regular " gibus," and another. Perhaps he
has escaped from New Caledonia, as many do, and come
this way. About 5.30 in the morning, seeing some one
pass (for the door is obliged to be left open), he called out,
" Garcon, cup ta " ; to which the reply was, " No tea until
half-past six." Of course that was not understood. Shortly
after the demand was repeated, with the same answer ; so
we explained. At the appointed time the " cup ta " arrived,
and was duly handed in to the bottom berth, and found
too hot ; in a few minutes he bolted out of the berth, for the
" cup ta " had upset, making his quarters too warm, even
for a Frenchman, whose exclamations, etc., we fail to
record. This afternoon the ship had a fairly good roll, just the
kind to reduce the profits, in the way of broken plates,
glasses, etc. From the writing-table a large-sized ink
bottle migrated to a seat, discharging its contents thereon.
Presently a nice young man sat on it, but nothing happened
to him beyond the trademark of the liquid.
February 20th, Saturday. — A dead calm with a cloudless
sky, and very hot. Turned out early to avoid the fate of
dissolving into a grease spot.
The learned canon did not patronise the baths this
morning, being afraid of his installation as K.C.B. Nothing
of interest transpired during the day.
February 21st, Sunday. — We arrived in Sydney at 6

no New South Wates.
o'clock, and left the ship after breakfast for the Hotel
Metropole, where we found very comfortable quarters, but
were unable to get our luggage, it being Sunday. We
spent the morning in the Botanical Gardens. In the after
noon we went by train to Cogee, nearly an hour's ride
through the National Park and suburbs. It is a very
pretty place ; a bay, with high cliffs ; and there is a fine
aquarium. After tea we went to St. Philip's Church,
hearing a good sermon from the Rev. — Langley, delivered
with great vigour to a large congregation.
Sydney Harbour is one of the wonders of the world, and
must have been a great freak of nature — volcanic, no doubt
— in emptying such a large area. It is like an octopus, its
many arms stretching for miles inland, and of great depth,
even close to the shores, where large ships can be moored.
These shores are for the most part hilly ; some clad with
beautiful trees and foliage, while others are stern, hard
rocks. On these shores the city is built, and on the hills
beautiful villas, with subtropical trees, shrubs, and flowers,
all denoting great wealth and luxury. In a general aspect
it far exceeds any city we have ever seen, and impresses
the mind as a fancy picture.
In the city proper there are fine stone buildings, amongst
others the Cathedral, Government offices, and Land and
Post offices. To the latter is attached a high tower, from
which signals are exhibited when letters from mails arrive,
in the day by flags, and at night by electric lights in
various forms. The tower has a large illuminated clock,
without the usual figures, and can be seen from most parts
of the city, on account of the clearness of its faces. It
chimes on splendid bells, cast by Taylor of Loughborough,
and is the most imposing post-office in Her Majesty's
colonies.

New South Wales.

1 1 1

The streets are not like Melbourne, but much after the
irregular style of London. George Street, King Street,
Pitt Street, etc., are fashionable ones for shopping, having
several arcades with fine shops, especially for fancy work
and millinery.
The great drapery concerns are quite as large as the
best in London, where all the novelties of the season are
exhibited. Of course we patronised them.
The flower and fruit shops are great attractions, especially
the former ; for the flowers are magnificent, with the rarest
orchids and blooms of the most striking colours. The fruit
shops secured our frequent patronage, because with splendid
fresh grapes at 2d. and 3d. per lb., good weight, peaches as
large as the biggest oranges \d., id., and \\d. each, passion
fruit, apricots, nectarines, etc., equally cheap, we did not
wish to lose our opportunities.
In most shops goods seem to be quite as cheap as at
home. We noticed corsets of the latest fashion, warranted
to improve the figure, at u. 3\d. ; complete suits of the
newest patterns of tweed, made to measure, 70s., with an
extra pair of trousers given in. Grocers, with all kinds of
novelties, from kangaroo tongue to preserved bamboo.
Splendid " flesh " shops, with meat as cheap as you could
desire, — a 9 lb. leg of mutton, finest quality, 2s. 6d. ; half a
lamb for the same amount ; beef from 2d. to 4<f. per lb. ;
best rump-steak, without bone, 6d. per lb. ; sheep's kidneys,
3d. per dozen — a plentiful commodity, for 60,000 sheep
are killed every week, to go to England after being
frozen. This accounts for the eating of meat at each meal,
there being nothing, cheaper. Dogs in consequence suffer,
and are in a chronic state of mange.
A Chinaman, rejoicing in the name of Quoin Tart, has
several establishments for the sale of tea, and provides

1 1 2 New South Wales.
afternoon tea of fine flavour, with delicious cakes, hot and
well buttered. The e'lite patronise him in crowds. Of course
we went more than once. This Chinaman has made and
is making lots of money, and out of his abundance does
many charitable works, not only to his own countrymen,
but also to the heathen Saxon. There are many Chinese
shops of all kinds, and many Chinese following various
occupations ; they are for the most part peaceable citizens.
We saw, however, a great fight among them conse
quent on a decision in the police-court. Bamboo canes
were freely used, and with much spilling of blood, the
noise was like a regiment of tom-cats. The police soon
restored order.
The Town Hall is a splendid stone building, with a
Centennial Hall, seating 6,000 persons. It contains an
organ, built by Hill & Sons, of London, said to be the
largest in the world. The organist, M. Auguste Wiegland,
of Brussels, receives a salary of £600 a year. We went to a
recital, and were much gratified. The Vox Humana stop
was used with marvellous effect in the Sicilian Hymn. The
air sounded like voices in the distance accompanied by a
full band.
On Sunday the service at the Cathedral was feeble, with
the exception of a good, sensible sermon from the Dean,
who is upwards of eighty years of age.
One day we visited the Arts Gallery, which includes
a good collection of English masters both in oil and
water-colours. Foreign artists, however, were not well
represented. We recognised many Academy pictures, and
one good cattle piece by E. Hargitt. Our colonial friends
are evidently good customers of R. A.'s and A. R. A.'s. But
they leave outsiders to earn a name.
The Museum is a large building, and contains many

Sydney Town Hall and Centennial Hall,

New South Wales. 1 1 5

curiosities. The Free Library is also a handsome structure.
The Hospital is very large, and another wing is about to
be added to it, to which the Government has contributed
.£25,000. It struck us on seeing such grand public build
ings that people are more generous here than at home in
the old country ; but it appears that the Government pro
vides most of the cost of the buildings on the understanding
that the public maintain them.
The Charity Organisation Society's work is carried out on
an extensive scale ; one-third of the income is given away,
the other two-thirds being spent in necessary expenses ;
for all charitable institutions make use of the society's
information, and, as there are no poor laws, private sub
scriptions help the many who are now out of work, or they
would starve. The depression in trade is said to be the
outcome of the late strikes, about a year ago. The workmen
are stupid to be so deluded by trade-unionist agitators.
Many excursions can be made from Sydney ; and in
arranging a trip two or three weeks should be allowed
beyond the time spent in the city. This we unfortunately
did not know, so had to make the best use of our time,
About 50 miles away, and passing Botany Bay, of convict
renown, after traversing the National Park, containing about
30 miles of land reserved for public use, we came to the
colliery districts of Clifton, where thousands of tons of good
coals are obtained, and either shipped or sent by rail.
Beyond this is Bulli, beautifully situated on the coast, with
a view of Sydney Heads. With the aid of a carriage we
ascended upwards of 1,000 feet through the Bulli gorge to
the Loddon waterfalls, which are very pretty and curious ;
for after the first fall there is a second into a round basin,
without any apparent outlet, and the river is not seen again
for five miles.

n6

New South Wales.

Another trip was up the Paramatta river, a continuation
of the harbour for about 20 miles, through scenery much
like some parts of the Clyde, with well-wooded banks
studded with fine residences, having parks down to the
water, with bathing and boathouses. In some places the
river is three miles wide, while in others quite narrow,

Natives, New South Wales.

looking more like a series of lakes than a river. Landing,
we secured seats in a tram for the three miles to the town
of Paramatta, a pretty place, with beautiful gardens, sub
tropical shrubs and plants, and extensive orangeries. This
seems to be the garden of Sydney, for the whole district
is laid out in market gardens and fruit orchards.
Another day we went to the north shore in a steamer,
then by tram a couple of miles, and afterwards by a coach

New South Wales. 1 1 7
10 miles on high ground above the harbour ; then descended
to a ferry, where coach and horses went over, and on to
Manley, a beautiful seaside resort behind the north head of
the entrance to the harbour. There is a gap in the cliff,
with low land, and on the side near the sea is a fine
promenade called the Stayne. On the other side, facing
the harbour, is another gap, with extensive baths for ladies
and gentlemen. The town lies between, nicely planted
with trees.
This beautiful place and district is not without its draw
backs ; many find it too hot, but we did not find the heat
oppressive. The mosquitoes were our bugbear, and seemed
to like a little new blood. Curtains to the bed were pro
vided ; but we, being greenhorns, had to purchase our
experience by much discomfort, having neglected to hunt
inside them before extinguishing the light. Four real pro
fessors, old hands evidently, had a " go " at us the first
night; consequently for a day or two we looked like
escaped small-pox patients.
We leave Sydney with great regret, having had a most
enjoyable visit, and hope some time to return here for a
longer sojourn. Now for preparations for our long voyage
to China on the way home.

IX.
VOYAGE TO CHINA.

CHAPTER IX.
VOYAGE TO CHINA.
J\yf ARCH 2nd, Wednesday. — We sailed at 1.15 in the
steamship Airlie for Hong Kong. The ship is one
of the Eastern and Australian line, about 2,000 tons, of the
old type, with the cabins in the stern, and lighted dimly
with oil lamps. The captain (Ellis) and officers are English,
but the crew are of several nations, certainly not white men.
The stewards are all Chinese, dressed in native costume.
The " stewardess " is also a Chinaman, with a pigtail, who
looks very modest when attending upon the ladies in their
cabins. Passing out between the Heads, with their splendid light
houses, we found a rough sea, quite upsetting several of the
passengers, who had to retire.
Our dinner-table was thinly attended, and the good
dinner provided had to go begging, for the " highways and
byeways could not supply guests."
March 3rd, Thursday. — We have had a north-east gale
all night with a rough sea, and the ship rolling very much,
not adding comfort to those already sick. The gale has
increased during the day, and big green seas have struck

122 Voyage to China.

the ship, sending tons of water from end to end. We are
running close in shore, and have the advantage of seeing
the country, which appears in some places to be well culti
vated ; also we have passed the mouths of several large
rivers, where there are towns of considerable size. Our six
Chinese stewards look strange to us with costumes, bare
arms and pigtails ; one has a fine crop, for when plaited it
reaches within 6 inches of the ground.
March 4th, Friday. — We had another rough night, with
heavy seas continuing until we reached Moreton Bay, about
7 o'clock, when the ship got into smooth water. What
an electrical effect a calm has upon the appetites of
the people ! The breakfast-table was well attended, and
justice done to the very ample provision, when " all went
as merry as a marriage bell " ; then it was like sailing
down a lake, with land on both sides, but not any signs of
population. About 1 o'clock we anchored in the Brisbane river ; but
much to our disappointment were unable to go up to the
city, for we had expected a turn on shore. After a time a
steam tug came alongside, bringing many passengers, chiefly
Chinese. One family excited a good deal of attention —
China Pa, China Ma, and six piccaninnies, one about eight
months old, all dressed in Oriental costumes and looking
like a royal family. The lady had earrings about the size
of half a crown, jade stone and gold, and large pins in her
head-dress to match. We shall see more of them, but
perhaps not the grand costumes. Another Chinaman, of
less pretensions, brought his wife and family to see them
off. The parting between the father and the youngest
child was most affecting.
Lunch was delayed nearly an hour, waiting patiently for
the Earl of  , who was expected to arrive in a Govern-

Voyage to China. 123

ment launch ; but as he did not come we had our meal,
and then the arrival took place. A smart steamer drew
in sight, and salutes were made and exchanged. Then it
came up alongside, giving us the opportunity of witnessing
the leavetaking between Lord O  and the Governor
of Queensland, the Prime Minister, and lots of other State
dignitaries, who formed a procession on to our ship, even
to the Derby dog. But this dog returned, being wiser than
one who came on board at Sydney ; for the Sydney dog
had either been made into a " Chinaman's pie " or had
a long swim, for he disappeared.
After more formalities these grand folk cleared out, and
we resumed our voyage at 2.45. What an effect a little
aristocracy has ! All the officers wore full dress, the sailors
being in white jackets and trousers ; and the decks were
washed twice and rubbed with white sand, which we believe
did not call forth an)- remark from the visitors.
On leaving Moreton Bay the ship again responded to the
roll ; and many faces became once more elongated, and the
dinner-table was neglected.
March ^th, Saturday. — During the night the sea settled
down, and became quite smooth, with a burning sun and
cloudless sky, making the sea azure blue and the atmo
sphere very hot, although all devices possible were used
to keep cool — port holes with " wind scoops," " punkas "
worked by Chinamen, and awnings set — but the sun shone
all the same. Fish of all kinds were most abundant, and
sea monsters disported themselves alongside the ship ;
particularly porpoise, who seemed to enjoy steeple-chases,
while dolphin went lazily along.
About 6 o'clock we got well within the Barrier Reef, said to
be constructed by" coral insects," and extending over 1,200
miles of the course we were going, giving the assurance

i 24 Voyage to China.
of a smooth sea, being like a lake. After sunset the new
moon rose in a cloudless sky, and the whole was a perfect
scene of repose, except the water sent up by the steamer's
screw, being full of noctiluca, or phosphorescence of the sea.
March 6th, Sunday. — We rose at daylight to find a pic
ture of perfect loveliness, for the sun rose on the North
umberland Islands, — a number of small islands uninhabited,
with the exception of one, Percy Island, where a solitary
man lives, per se, quite on the lines of Robinson Crusoe.
We passed the Richmond Islands, and should have
landed on one of them, but were a day late, and it was
Sunday. Sailing close to the mainland, the whole scene forcibly
reminded us of a sail from Oban to the Isle of Skye, but
with a different atmosphere ; this is called the " Inland sea
of Queensland."
The dog-watches were most amusing on the forecastle,
all the Chinese firemen and sailors dining with the steerage
passengers. They sat in rings of about a dozen, without
chairs or stools, but on their haunches. In the centre of
the deck was a large tin containing pieces of meat curried ;
each man had two chopsticks in his right hand, and
a basin of rice in his left ; with the chopsticks he secured
a morsel of curry, and then some of the rice, repeating the
operation until filled.
The Eastern men said a prayer with their foreheads on
the deck, then knelt round a bucket of rice, and with chop
sticks in each hand kept up a stream of rice until satisfied ;
then said another prayer with their foreheads on the deck.
The next performance was either smoking small pipes or
cigarettes, and playing at cards.
There was a splendid sunset at 6.10, with much colour,
and the night was fine, hot, and calm.

Voyage to China. 125
March 7th, Monday. — We went on deck early, and saw
the sun rise at 5.50. It was a beautiful sight, for we were
just sailing into a bay ; at 6 a.m. the anchor was dropped
opposite the North Queensland capital, " Townsville,"
which has a population of about 1 5,000. The town is
built at the foot of a rough rocky hill, and has a har
bour enclosed by two breakwaters of considerable length,
but with the disadvantage of shallow water.
After breakfast about twenty passengers went ashore in
a steam launch ; we found it very hot, moist heat. The
first operation was posting letters ; and then, after looking
round the town, and deciding there was nothing to be bought
except " Beetle paste " and " Keating's insect powder,"
chartered some carriages for a drive. The main street,
Flinders Street, is wide, and has good shops, with two or
three public buildings. Just outside the town a river
is crossed to a village, where all the houses are on legs
from 4 to 6 feet above the ground, in consequence of
floods ; and farther along there are some pretty places writh
most luxuriant foliage.
At the end of four miles we arrived at " Acacia Gardens,"
where bananas and pineapples are grown in fields like
turnips. The pines average 2d. per dozen, and bananas
are about the same price. Custard apples are most de
licious, and lots of other tropical fruits are very abundant.
The trees, shrubs, and flowers, also orchids, are in the
greatest perfection, and many very immense. Some are
the same as grown in our hottest houses as small plants,
while here they are trees.
The proprietor was most kind in giving us fruit and
flowers, and showed us some wonderful Queensland birds.
He also regaled us with ginger-ale, a most acceptable
drink in such a hot place. Mosquitoes of a large size were

126 Voyage to China.

most energetic in their attentions to the visitors. We
suggested they should be chained up, but the rejoinder
was, " You should be here to-night."
At 3 o'clock the launch took us on board again, in time
for that bewitching institution, " afternoon tea."
The sunset was very fine, and the moon rose, giving
quite another effect to the islands we were sailing
amongst. March 8th, Tuesday. — At 4.45 the anchor was dropped
about a mile from " Frankland Isle," an uninhabited
island just inside the Barrier Reef, covered with tropical
trees, cocoa-nut palms, and orchids. Soon after 5 o'clock
ten of us left the ship in a boat, four armed with guns
to shoot pigeons. It soon became evident that the birds
were on the look-out, for we saw flocks of hundreds
leaving the trees. Landing in a small cove, the shooters
went in quest of prey, and by the reports must have found
plenty of sport. We had a walk in the thick jungle, and
started up a wild turkey which went away, as we had
left our guns in England. Orchids were in profusion, and
large tropical flowers hung from the trees ; the shores were
one mass of coral and wonderful shells. A good deal of
coral was collected, but the finest was obtained by the
" Malay sailors " diving and breaking it off with a hammer,
and was afterwards boiled to kill the coral insects, and to
make it white.
We returned to the ship at 8 o'clock, and resumed
the voyage, after four hours of great excitement, with good
appetites for breakfast.
About 1 1 o'clock we anchored off Cairns, a small town
inhabited by fishermen of various nations — Chinese, Malay,
and some English.
A large quantity of be'che-de-mer, or trepang, an im-

Voyage to China. 127

portant food luxury among the Chinese, is caught and
prepared here ; it consists of several species of echinoderms
or sea-snails, which frequent the coral reefs, and is often
called sea-cucumber, having a body from 6 to 1 5 inches
long. The preparation is simple, for after being caught they
are boiled for about twenty minutes, and then split up
and made ready for drying. This is effected by their
being kept open with three pieces of stick. We took on
board six tons to convey to China, where the value is
about £100 per ton. We must say the smell is strong,
and not like rose-water ; however, the captain promised
some for dinner the next day.
Tropical rain is curious in its action. Several times we
have seen a cloud settle upon an island and drench it with
rain, while all around was quite fine and bright.
During the afternoon we passed a large waterfall, plainly
visible in a range of mountains on the mainland, marked
on the chart as from 2,000 to 5,000 feet. No doubt there
are many such waterfalls in these high ranges. About 8
o'clock we steamed into Cookstown Bay, and anchored off
the township. A large fishing-boat came out to us, as
there is no steam launch, and brought ten tons of be'che-
de-mer, which was added to the cargo for China, also
a plentiful supply of pineapples and melons for ship's use.
Soon after tea we started again, and steamed along the
coast for two hours by the light of the moon ; then cast
anchor, because it is not practicable to navigate this coral
sea in the dark.
March gth, Wednesday. — A most beautiful day, without
a ripple on the water, and we are sailing through coral
reefs and islands. For the most part the reefs are covered
with water, while others show above, being only masses

128 Voyage to China.
of coral. In many places the channels through which we
have to pass are quite narrow, and require the greatest
care ; while some of the islands are huge rocks 500 or
600 feet high, without the least sign of vegetation ;
others are covered with tropical trees, palms, and ferns.
The sea is quite clear, and a long distance down can be
seen where there are objects to attract the sight. This
coral sea is truly a marvel ; for fresh wonders of the deep
are frequently to be met with. " Cockroaches " are rather
prolific in the cabins, so we have hunts, and often after
a good " run " get a " kill," but nobody wants the brush.
Our investment in beetle paste may, we hope, prove
effectual ; but that can only happen when the ship is
cleared, because these animals, about 2 inches long, can
and do fly, and are active on their many legs.
We came across a lightship stationed in these little
frequented seas ; it was painted red, and of course attracted
attention. A signal was made to send out a boat, when
a collection of books, periodicals, and newspapers was
packed in a chest with a fresh leg of mutton and sundry
other things, much like sending a schoolboy's box. The
ship did not stop, and the boat was too small to come
alongside, so the present was cast into the sea and picked
up with acknowledgments of gratitude.
Before 3 o'clock the ship anchored opposite Claremont
Island. The boats were lowered, and a large party went
to the island to shoot and investigate. The shooters had
good sport, killing ninety-six pigeons besides many other
birds. The investigators found tropical trees, shrubs, flowers,
palms, etc. ; and the beach of this wonderful little island,
less than a mile in length, was prolific in shells, as well as
fish. Be'che-de-mer, crabs, and oysters were abundant,
and a goodly stock found its way to the ship for con-

Voyage to China. 129

sumption. Pelicans and blue stork were busy in their
occupation of fishing, and had a different aspect from those
in the Zoo.
At sunset (6 o'clock) the ship's " siren " sounded, when
the boats were manned and all returned to their old
quarters after a most enjoyable afternoon.
Soon after dinner a heavy rain came on and obscured
the moon. As the navigation was intricate, the captain
ordered the ship to be anchored for the night ; and the
" anchor watch " was set, liberating not a few from duty.
Chinamen, always having an eye for the production of
food, commenced fishing ; and not for sprats, but sharks,
as these are more solid flesh, and the " fins " are accounted
a great bon bouche. After one or two bites there was great
excitement, as a monster about 9 feet long was firmly
hooked. Then a black sailor was let down to hitch a rope
to its tail. When all was in order the process of hauling
up was commenced, with Chinaman's vision of fresh fish,
and the satisfaction of others who like a change of diet.
Suddenly the haulers were nearly thrown down ; then
came a great splash, and Mr. Shark was free to announce
the adventure to his brother-sharks.
March 10th, Thursday. — We sailed soon after 5 o'clock,
with a fine morning, but very hot ; shade temperature from
900 to 100°. Navigation most intricate for eighty miles,
going through narrow reef channels and small islands.
Soon after 2 o'clock the ship anchored opposite Bind
Island, and the boats were lowered. The first one took
the shooting party and the second the exploring people.
Landing was rather difficult on account of the ridges of
coral preventing the boat getting near the shore. The
beach was one mass of coral and shells of all kinds,
some clam shells being 3 feet wide. Crossing a narrow
9

130 Voyage to China.
tongue we came to the lagoons, miles and miles in extent,
and quite shallow, with patches of mangrove trees growing
in the water on the coral, the roots being projected from
the trunk, and branches forming, as it were, stilts for the
tree to stand upon, as the roots do not go into the coral
very far, and would be upset by the wind if it were not for
these supports. These lagoons contain all kinds of fish,
be'che-de-mer, young sharks, growing sponges, and many
interesting objects only to be found in tropical and coral
seas. We were surrounded by lagoons and islands as far
as the eye could see, and the wonder is how a ship can
be navigated. We came across a fishing-boat on the shore
with eight men ; only one seemed to be English, the others
being a collection of all nations, — Malay, Chinese, Japanese,
and niggers. They were collecting pearl shells, sponges,
be'che-de-mer, and anything else of value ; they hailed from
Albany Pass, and are in the employ of Mr. Frank Jardine.
It was quite refreshing to hear birds sing ; many of the
finch tribe, and they had a nice song. There were several
kingfishers hopping about the ship, without any fear of
being molested.
The captain resolved to remain at anchor until daylight,
so after dinner there were various amusements on the
ship. Many of the passengers busy cleaning shells and
arranging other curiosities. Fishing for sharks was to the
fore with the heathen Chinese, but it only ended in a few
bites and loss of pork.
March nth, Friday. — All the ship was astir at 5
o'clock, when the sail through dozens of small islands was
quite exciting, and there were speculations as to which
was the way. In two hours we came to Albany Pass,
through which the tide runs like a mill race. On the
mainland side is the settlement of Mr. Frank Jardine, who

Voyage to China. 131

has a beautiful house ; but his visitors must arrive by sea,
consequently neighbours cannot trouble him much. He
has a fleet of fishing-boats and some cattle, and takes his
produce to Thursday Island.
On the land are immense ant hills, some of them 10
and 20 feet high, looking like cairns. On the island
opposite are the graves of missionaries who were murdered
by the natives. We passed, among many others, Monday
Island, Tuesday and Wednesday Islands, and also saw the
melancholy sight of a shipwreck. The masts of a large full-
' rigged ship were standing out of the sea, while the hull was
on a reef ; no lives were lost. Sailing through a narrow
strait we came into a large sea lake surrounded by islands,
and on one of these is the settlement of Thursday Island,
a prosperous place, where the pearl fishing and coral
people bring their catches for sale, and take away stores.
Landing in shore boats we visited all the shops and had
great fun. Some of our party met old friends who had
just come from New Guinea. We were introduced to
Mr. and Mrs. C, the celebrated missionaries, who have
lived among the New Guinea savages for twenty years ;
they are most interesting people, and were on their way
to England.
The population is about 1,050. Six hundred of these are
Malays, Javanese, South Sea Islanders, Singalese, Papuan,
and other dark-skinned races, while the Europeans are
of various nationalities. The settlement is expected to
increase, being the nearest port to New Guinea, and only
separated by the Torres Straits. The Singalese always
have an eye to business. They brought out of their pockets
little parcels of pearls, asking a few shillings for some, and for
others £40 to £$0 ; but we were not tempted. We daresay
some people would have purchased their wonderful teeth,

132

Voyage to China.

being whiter than pearls, while others in their admiration
inquired as to the nature of the tooth powder used.
At four o'clock we set sail and wound our way out into
the open sea. The evening was spent in discussing shore
experiences. March 12th, Saturday. — We were sailing across the Gulf

Natives.

of Carpentaria, 760 miles to Port Darwin. The sea was
smooth, and in the absence of wind very hot. This
Saturday afternoon is a sort of holiday with the Chinese,
so we went to see how the time is spent. About a dozen
sat in a row while two used the lather brush all over the
face and forehead, also the back of the neck ; then two
operated with rather large razors. The next performance
was brushing and plaiting the pigtail, then washing a few

Voyage to China. 133
clothes. A pipe and a sleep concluded the holiday. The
Chinese seem to do everything in companies of about
twelve. March 13th, Sunday. — From the forecastle we saw in the
calm sea a splendid " Portuguese man-of-war,'' or Nautilus.
It looked about a yard long, and exhibited magnificent
colours when using its propeller. We were then in the
Aragura Sea, and sighted land, where a thunderstorm was
going on, whereas the sea was calm and the full moon gave
all sorts of beautiful effects.
March 14th, Monday. — It was a fine sight to see the
moon setting in the west and the sun rising in the east at
the same time. The moonset was as warm in colour as a
good English sunset. The sun rose blood red, and the
glow in the sea was wonderful from both. We sailed
through Dundas Strait, between Melvill Island and the
mainland. Melvill Island is in the sole occupation of the
aborigines, who live by hunting buffalo and eating cocoa-
nuts and other palm-tree produce. There was great pre
paration, for eight of our passengers were to leave at
Port Darwin, where we expect to land at 1 o'clock.
We reached Port Darwin in due course, and had a warm
reception, for several of the passengers had friends there.
The Government steam launch with the temporary governor
on board, and some officials, came out to meet us. The
port is prettily situated on a promontory in a deep bay, and
the township of " Palmerston " is on high ground behind.
The settlement consists of large blocks of corrugated iron
houses all painted white, the English being on one side
and the Chinese on the other. There are 1,300 inhabitants ;
about 1,000 are Chinese and other nations, while 300 are
English. On arriving at the pier we were much struck with
the collection of aborigines who were in a state of nudity

134

Voyage to China.

with the exception of a strip of Turkey red, provided by the
Governor, who insists on its being worn when there is a
steamer in the harbour. These people are quite black, and
have bows and arrows, spears, and other warlike imple
ments. The men are for the most part tall and athletic,
with black hair, black eyes, large flat noses, painted yellow,

Queensland Aborigine.

through which a round bone 6 inches long is inserted ;
underneath is a most capacious mouth filled with large white
regular teeth, protruding over the chin, giving a most
ferocious aspect. The body is supple, and covered with
large tattoos and marks of wounds — the limbs are long
and thick, with the finest ankles, about as thin as a good
walking-stick ; the whole skin is embellished with paint,
some like tigers. The females rather shocked our ideas

Voyage to China. 135

of propriety with their want of costumes. Many of them
sat upon the edge of the pier, with their legs dangling
down, smoking their pipes, which when not in use, and
for the want of pockets, were stuck under " bangles " made
of plaited grass, worn on the arm just below the shoulder.
On an invitation to dive these ladies discarded the turkey
red and swam round the ship. Sixpences were thrown
into the water, for which they dived, and sometimes re
mained long under water. " Shark " was suddenly called,
and there was a regular stampede to the steps of the pier.
Some of the women had little black babies, a few weeks
old, and there were other children of all ages.
In the afternoon we visited the Settlement and saw
Government House and also the Telegraph Station, quite
an important place ; for the submarine cable ends here,
and there are twelve operators with their families, who are
relieved every five years.
The Governor and this little colony are the e'lite of the
place. They have a tennis-court and horses and carriages
provided for their amusement. There ought to be many
more diversions in such a place and climate, for the heat
is prodigious.
We then visited the Chinese part, where all the shops
are, and saw many funny things.
After dinner we went to the Government part to witness
a " Corroboree," but shall fail in giving any adequate de
scription of so wonderful a sight. Portions of three tribes
were assembled, the largest being the " Emiis," living in
the immediate neighbourhood ; the next the " Alligators,"
from the Alligator River, a few miles away ; and the others
the " Larikins." It was estimated about six hundred were
present. The ground (cricket ground) was prepared by
erecting three large bamboo canes firmly in the earth

136 Voyage to China.
near which each tribe had its " band," consisting of women
and children. Some blew through bamboos of different
lengths, making a trumpeting sound, while others tapped
with sticks upon pieces of wood, keeping good dancing
time. Opposite each tribe was a large fire made of sticks,
and well supplied with paraffin.
The Emu tribe were got up to represent the emu bird,
having head-dresses two feet high, to imitate the " comb
and hackle." The body was painted the same colour, with
striped legs, and a bunch of feathers behind to take the
place of the bird's tail. When the music arose with
" voluptuous swell," these " Emu warriors " issued from the
darkness with the gait of the bird, and making a similar
cry. Then commenced the Emu dance, never losing sight
of the birds' movements, even to one ascending the bamboo
and perching on the top. The " Alligators " were got up
like tigers and other wild animals, and came out of the
darkness roaring and yelling. They danced, if it might be
so called, to the wild strains of their music.
This lasted until nearly 11 o'clock, when a tropical
thunderstorm sent the people to their homes, and the
natives into the thick jungle, but the rain did not spoil
their clothes ; not even the turkey-red, for they had none.
These exhibitions are infrequent, and only called together
by the Governor upon special occasions, because sometimes
the tribes get money and purchase rum, which ends in
fighting. The reward is generally a few sacks of flour, just now
a great boon, for the jungle is very thick with the rain,
making hunting most difficult.
March it,th, Tuesday. — We were astir early, having
arranged to leave the ship at 8 o'clock for a drive. The
morning was very hot, and it was pleasant to get into the

<
Z

Voyage to China. 139

jungle out of the sun, where the grass was about 6 feet
high, and where grew lovely wild tropical flowers and
splendid trees.
We passed several groups of natives who had taken up
their temporary quarters under the trees. After an hour's
drive we arrived at Sandy Point, on the edge of the bay.
Here a native and his wife emerged from the jungle with
their dog. They had been hunting, and killed an " opossum "
for dinner.
Our ladies purchased the wife's bangles, made of grass,
which were difficult to get off her arms. We gave them
some tobacco, and filled the wife's pipe, contributing
to her pleasure. The man gave us an exhibition of the
use of his arrows and spear in killing animals, in return.
Mr. R  did some conjuring tricks with money, astonish
ing these simple people, who asked frequent encores and
uttered yells of delight. They were so pleased that they
came to see the ship off, and bid us good-bye.
We next visited the prison in the jungle, near the bay,
where punishment is tempered with mercy, and prisoners
well fed, — a pound of meat with a pound of potatoes
each day for dinner, and a quarter of an ounce of tobacco
afterwards, with other luxuries. The labour punishment is
very little, for the climate is too hot. We found it cool
there with 95".
A short drive brought us to the Botanical Gardens,
where everything that can be grown is exhibited. A good
deal of sugar-cane and tobacco is cultivated, and all kinds
of tropical fruit.
We returned to the ship, and as the hour of departure
drew near there was a large gathering of people, not
the least interesting sight being the Chinamen bringing
back the washing. All the ship's linen was washed in

140 Voyage to China.
24 hours, and many passengers had goodly quantities. It
was satisfactorily done where instructions had been given
for " washing, starching, and ironing " ; but it was comical to
see the faces of those who had sent shirts to be " washed,"
as the instructions were carried out to the letter, leaving
the garments unfit for wear.
When walking near Palmerston we had a conversation,
under difficulties, with the king of the Emu tribe. He is
a fine old man, about 6 feet 2 inches, with a graceful
carriage. He introduced us to his two brothers, who are
equally fine men. We inquired about the queen, but
could not see her. These tribes are fast dying out, having
small families, and as cultivation increases wild animals
disappear, and with them the natives.
The ship left at 5 o'clock, accompanied by a steam
yacht, amidst the strains of "Should auld acquaintance be
forgot." During the evening we had a tropical thunderstorm,
with deluges of rain. The lightning continued for several
hours. March 16th, Wednesday. — A splendid day after the rain.
Everybody tired with the excitement of yesterday.
March 17th, Thursday. — Soon after daylight we came in
sight of the Island of Timor, a mountainous country, with
foliage to the tops of the hills, and sailed close to the
land until 10 o'clock, when we arrived at Deilli, a Portu
guese settlement upon a tongue of land covered with palm
and other fine trees.
Our steamer anchored about a hundred yards from the
shore. All the passengers landed, and found a very pretty
place with an avenue of trees about a mile long, and houses
here and there on each side of the road. Government
House, barracks, post-office, and a covered market are the

Voyage to China. 141
principal buildings, all in a dilapidated condition. A
large number of natives met us at the landing place, and
eyed us with the same curiosity as we did them. Some of
our ladies had visions of " curio shops," with wonderful
native baskets, and home-spun garments, etc., so invaded
all the stores ; but they had to retire without making any
purchases, as not a word of understandable language was
spoken. The next attack was upon the nearly nude
natives, who are a small race, with protruding mouths and
little black teeth, from the effect of " betel nuts," one of
which is kept under the upper lip, over the teeth, giving
a dirty effect. Bangles were seen on the arms and ankles.
But there came a difficulty, for the natives did not appre
ciate English money, and change had to be found. Bamboo
combs of the rudest construction were purchased, and a
large rough knife in a sheath. We got together a crowd
of niggers, male and female, as well as children, and
Mr. C  fixed up his camera ; but as soon as it was
observed there was a regular stampede, and we were left
in possession of the road. A camera would disperse an
army of natives, such is their superstition.
This place has little communication with the outer world,
and not much trade. Coffee is grown in the mountains,
but is not considered good. The trees on the beach are
splendid, some of the trunks having a girth of 60 feet.
The island is much neglected by the Portuguese, who
lose money upon its retention. The length is about
300 miles, and the width 60. The highest mountain is
7,000 feet, with valleys capable of growing anything.
Splendid wheat and potatoes have been produced, but the
natives are idle, and the Portuguese bad colonists. In the
hands of a few Scotchmen it would soon become a
valuable island. We were to have sailed at 5 o'clock, but

142 Voyage to China.
the governor could not finish his despatches ; so we had
to settle down for the night, with the hope of starting at
daybreak. March 18th, Friday. — We were up at daylight, but there
were no signs of the inhabitants of the town being awake,
and the despatches had not arrived ; so the Captain woke
up the place with the ship's siren, which echoed through
the hills, and brought out the native blacks in crowds.
Then a message was sent giving notice of the ship's de
parture, " despatches or no despatches." The anchor was
got up, and the shore rope taken in. Of course, just as
we were starting the despatches arrived, and very small
affairs they were top.
Our sail out was beautiful, and the island looked charm
ing in the morning light.
We had an addition of twenty-one passengers besides
children, consisting of Portuguese, Malays, and Papuans, as
well as some mongrels, mixtures of these races. These
people are not an acquisition, on account of their habits
differing much from Europeans. As a study of human
nature they are most interesting, and exemplify the few
wants of people in the tropics. They require little food ;
rice is the staple, with fruit.
Clothes do not cost them much consideration or money.
Their beds are only a mat put down anywhere, and they
do not use either chairs or tables. Ice is unknown to them,
and seemed to alarm a big fellow, who had a piece given
to him.
We have been sailing all day in the Banda Sea, which
seems alive with flying fish and porpoise. It is rather
rougher than usual, for many passengers could not " show
up " at dinner — a great disappointment, being " ice cream
day."

Voyage to China. 143

March igth, Saturday. — At daybreak we sighted Bero
Island, with its mountain 9,000 feet high, and in the middle
of the morning came close upon it. It is a fine island, 200
or 300 miles long, and about 100 wide, and is a Dutch
possession, very thinly populated with Malays, and has
only two small settlements, and a small production of
coffee. After tiffin, one of the Banda Sea storms came
on, — squalls with deluges of rain ; such rain is never seen
out of the tropics. It has been estimated that an inch an
hour comes down. The ship has either to stop or go dead
slow, because it is impossible to see. The squalls con
tinued at intervals, so all amusements had to cease, except
quoits under the awning.
March 20th, Sunday. — The sun rose at 6 o'clock in a
cloudless sky, with a smooth sea. About 8 o'clock we
crossed the Equator, always a great event on a ship. Nep
tune did not visit us, as it is said this Banda Sea is too
deep. About noon we passed some small islands with moun
tains of volcanic origin, and entered the Molucca Straits,
where there is a good roll from the Northern Pacific, which
thinned our Sunday dinner-table, and lessened the demand
on the " ice creams."
In the second dog-watch we, as usual, visited the fore
castle, and saw the Sunday games. Some of the native
soldiers from Timor were amusing themselves with parrots
and other beautiful birds. We have not yet spoken of our
farm on the fore end of the ship, which was well stocked
when we left Sydney, — two milch cows with each a calf,
twenty-four sheep, six lambs, a number of turkeys, geese,
ducks, and chickens, and, last but not least, twelve pigs for
the Chinamen, and a farm servant to take care of this large
family. When we got out to sea it was found that the

144 Voyage to China.

farmer could not milk the cows. So Captain G  , a
passenger, volunteered to do so, and we all gave a helping
hand. The farmer had to be taught under the penalty of
being put ashore. We had fresh milk twice a day to feed
the dozen or more babies, and the calves got the remainder.
Before sunset we sailed close to the Celebes, a very large
mountainous island, belonging to the Dutch ; then entered
the Celebes Sea, which was rather lumpy all night.
March 21 st, Monday. — A fine morning in the Celebes
Sea. In the afternoon we got under the lee of the Philippine
Islands, giving us smooth water. A smoking concert, with
Lord O  in the chair, went off very well. The Hon.
W. J. T  gave a most interesting lecture on Australia,
which called forth some discussion.
March 2211 d, Tuesday. — We were up before daybreak, to
see the Island of Mindanao, which is a Spanish possession.
It is volcanic, mbuntainous, and well wooded. If in English
hands it would be productive. Sugar, fruit, tobacco, etc.,
are grown ; but there is no capital or energy. The island
is about 200 miles long and 70 or 80 wide, with most
beautiful mountains and long valleys. We sailed in some
places within half a mile of the beach, admiring the huge
trees, cocoa-nut palms, and abundant tropical foliage. We
saw the natives moving about ; at one place they lighted a
fire and came out in a canoe, but the captain did not stop
the ship. The rising sun gave a good effect to the scenery ;
it tipped the hills with gold. On the other side of the ship
we passed the Palawan Island. It was like sailing up a
lake with beautiful scenery always changing.
We made the Negro Islands and the Island of Panay in
bright, hot weather.
March 23rd, Wednesday. — Early in the morning we
sighted Mindoro Island, and sailed close to it most of the

Voyage to Ch

una.

145

day. It is most beautiful, and looks very attractive ; but a
white man cannot live there ; it is said, twenty-four hours
always produce fever and death.
Passing through the Mindoro Straits, we came to the
Island of Luzon, with Manilla for its capital. Manilla Bay
is very fine, but the captain would not call on account of
the " dues." So smokers had to do without the celebrated
cheroots. March 24th, Thursday. — A splendid morning in the

Natives and Canoe.
China Sea disappointed many, for there had been great
preparations on the ship for stormy weather, the China
Sea having a bad reputation.
March 2^th, Friday. — About 10 o'clock last night we
got into the storm — a N.E. monsoon — and had a sleepless
night, for the noise of the wind and sea, the clashing of
doors, breaking of crockery, and things rolling about, made
a perfect Bedlam. Our cabin in the morning was a sight,
for everything was on the floor, and our boxes moved
about like live things. The storm continued all day.
10

X.
CHINA.

CHAPTER X.
CHINA.
Jl/TARCH 26th, Saturday. — Sailed into Hong Kong at
sunrise.
After a stormy crossing in the China Sea we passed
through a series of islands, and then entered the " Sulphur
Passage," which is very narrow, and has a small fishing
village on both sides. Coming through the islands we
saw large fleets of " fishing junks " with elevated sterns,
looking as if they were sailing wrong end first to oblige
their curious-looking sails. On emerging from the channel
the sun sent forth his rays and lighted up the vast expanse
of water forming the harbour, 10 miles in diameter, sur
rounded by rugged rocks, the highest being 1,800 feet.
This harbour is the rendezvous for a large fleet, both naval
and mercantile, there being many fine English steamers
as well as sailing vessels, giving an air of great prosperity.
On landing we found a fine and beautiful city, with great,
massive buildings fronting the harbour, and comfortable-
looking residences studded about on the hills, also miles of
Chinese streets and shops gaily painted and decorated.
We took up our quarters at the Hong Kong Hotel, being

1 50 China.
a delightful change after nearly a month on the ship ; and
as the hotel proved to be first-class, it gave us much pleasure.
The first operation was the changing of money, to com
mence a campaign in the novelty of Chinese shops, where
several hours were spent in inspecting the curios, from
pottery ware (beg its pardon, china ware) to food shops,
where sausages are sold on strings — that is to say, the
meat is threaded. Ducks and chickens are sold in joints
as small as the purchaser wishes, besides many other things
quite indescribable, suggesting that either a Chinaman's
wants are very small, or his means limited.
In the afternoon we went in jinrickshas to the Funicular
Tramway, which ascends two-thirds of the height of the
Peak, 1,800 feet above the harbour. It is a most wonderful
structure, with the terminus three times higher than from
the sands to the top of Oliver's Mount, and steeper than
the South Cliff tram, at Scarborough. The remainder of the
way has to be walked. On the top are two large hotels,
patronised in hot weather, a branch Government House,
several private dwellings, and the apex is crowned with an
observatory. Fortunately it was one of those pearly days
which infuse life into old bones and adorn Nature with
brightness and glory. The view of the harbour and sur
rounding hills was perfection, exhibiting one of the finest
panoramic views in the world. The colouring of the blue
water, bronze rocks, and the spring green of the trees,
shrubs, and flowers, produced a picture to be remembered.
Turning round to the other side are a vast number of
small islands, which operate as breakwaters to the waves of
the rough China Sea, and give strength to this important
naval station, at the same time lending a charm to so
wonderful a seascape. From this position most of the
Island of Hong Kong is visible. It lies off the coast of

China.

i5'

Kwangtung province at the mouth of the Canton River.
It consists of rugged mountain ridges, with peaks, alter
nating with sandy beaches and perpendicular cliffs. Its
greatest length is about 10 miles, with a breadth of 2 to
4 miles, and has a circumference of some 30 miles. A
narrow strait separates it from the mountainous mainland,
the " Ly-ee-mom "
Pass being only half
a mile wide.
Another pretty ob
ject is the lake -like
reservoir of the water
supply of the city,
with its arched aque
ducts winding round
the hills something
like Amalfi. We
regretted leaving this
wonderful sight, but
having other places
to visit retraced our
steps to the valley.
The streets of Hong
Kong being unsuit
able for carriages
and carts, the whole of the traffic is performed by manual
labour, giving employment to some thousands of coolies.
Jinrickshas are mostly used in the more level portions
of the city. These conveyances are on two wheels, and
drawn by a coolie, who can travel at 6 or 7 miles an
hour. But the great Chinese institution is the " sedan
chair," most families of repute having their own, and their
coolies are dressed in white, bound with red or some other

Palanquin or Sedan Chair.

152 China.
colour, whereas the others are not troubled with much
clothing. The first experience is novel on being perched
upon the shoulders of two or four coolies. We had four,
on account of the weight of our British bodies, which
caused the chair to swing from side to side, in time with
the rapid steps of our bearers. It is all very well uphill,
but when the coolies bear one down a steep street at a
swift pace, one clings to the side of the chair with a firm
grip, expecting to be launched into space, and requiring
great control over the powers of the tongue. Horses
and carts are conspicuous by their absence, the heavy
goods being moved by coolies, who have long and strong
bamboos on their shoulders, with the burden suspended
by cords. Sometimes as many as twenty carry one
package. At the tramway station we chartered jinrickshas ; and
as there were over a dozen of us, the excitement was great,
as the coolies are fond of racing. We passed some fine
buildings, the Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank, the Public
Hall, etc., and through a long avenue of banyan trees we
came to the racecourse, prettily situated on the side of the
hill. On the right is the celebrated Happy Valley, where
the remains of all who have finished their race are deposited.
The cemetery is beautifully laid out and well kept, nature
having done much in providing natural knolls, nooks, and
corners, with fine trees, tropical shrubs and plants, with
flowers in the greatest profusion. The resting-places of
many soldiers and sailors are well noted on handsome
monuments and tombstones.
Returning, we passed through an industrial portion of
the city, where all kinds of things are manufactured. Some
of the signs over the places are in English, striking us with
their peculiarity : " Cock Eye, Contractor for Coffins," " Sat

China. 153
Singe, Chair Maker," " Yon Sun, Careful Washerman," " A
Man, Tailor and Mender," " Cheap Jack & Son sells best
boots." The Chinese signs are most picturesque, and give
good effect in colour. We paid our coolies for the long
ride, and for waiting, equal to eightpence each, then gave
an extra copper, pleasing them very much.
On Sunday morning we attended garrison drill, and saw
our boy soldiers — Shropshire Regiment, Royal Artillery,
Marines, and others — then we went to the service in the
Cathedral, which is rather a plain building, in a beautiful
situation. Afterwards we spent some time in the Botanical
Gardens, which are situated on the side of the mount, with
terraced walks, bridges, and ravines. There are many rare
trees and plants ; the palms are especially noteworthy —
to wit, the Pamus. The Australian fern trees also seem to
do well.
A fine specimen of " Ficus Reluse Religiosa Hong Kong "
struck us much, with its natural supports grown from the
branches to the ground, some about six inches in diameter,
and perfectly perpendicular. Many euphorbias are fine,
also several Norfolk Island palms. Large rhododendrons
and azaleas are in flower, with many others we do not
know. On the other side of the Gardens we came to
the Roman Catholic Cathedral, a large building, with
some architectural pretensions, but a very shabby inside,
having an altar with a few tin virgins, and daubs of
pictures. We came across another church in our rambles, built in
the Italian style, giving, in a prominent situation, a very
pretty effect.
We may mention that these rambles gave amusement
and astonishment to the Chinese ; for they are not used to
seeing people walk, and they don't like the invasion of

154 China.
foreigners. All the same, we walked and used our eyes for
observation. The Praza, or Esplanade, facing the harbour, about two
miles long, is most interesting, not only for the loading and
unloading of junks, and bringing goods to and from the
harbour, but also for the trade with other towns and villages.
But there are many other attractions, such as the Fish
Market — a long, narrow building, divided into compart
ments of about 9 feet, in each of which the vendor and his
family live and carry on business. If poultry trade is com
bined, then a large portion of the space is taken up with
chicken baskets. Small pieces of fowl are sold, as well as
cuts of fish. In one place you see lobsters boiling, and cut
in pieces for sale ; in another, periwinkles being extracted
and placed on a plate ; in another, live fish swimming
about in tubs, for which " you pay your money and take
your choice."
Smells are not charged for ; and as a little goes a long
way, we were not greedy, and did not go in for a wholesale
quantity. The sampans, or house-boats, provide for a considerable
population, extending to some thousands. They vary in size
from the smallest boats to junks. On some of them live two
or three generations of families ; the only covering is a mat
stretched over bamboos. The men work on shore, or fish, or
pick up anything they can, while the women do all sorts of
work — cook, wash, row and sail the boat — at the same time
not forgetting their religious duties. In nearly every boat
there is a shrine.
In one we patronised there were twelve inhabitants, and
the females were sailors — one, a nice-looking girl, with
pretty, bare feet, and smart ankles adorned with silver
bangles. Dogs, cats, birds, etc., form a portion of the

China.

155

household. On one boat we saw five clean little educated
pigs. The " missey " makes them run round the boat, and
jump the spaces. She rewarded them with a little orange
peel. Some of the junks are propelled by paddle wheels at the

Queen's Road, Hong Kong.
stern by coolies, on the principle of the treadmill, with
twenty in one junk.
Hong Kong has an advantage over many cities, having
suffered partial demolition by typhoons and fires, and being
rebuilt on improved systems. Queen's Road is the one
which has had these advantages. The houses are all built of

156 China.
stone, and of the same height, with verandahs, each shop
having twelve or fifteen feet frontage, and about twenty feet
deep, with a road twenty feet in width. There are fittings in
accordance with the business, and for the most part there
are little carved black-wood tables, holding a small tea
service, or half a dozen water pipes, for the refreshment of
customers or visitors. The proprietors are very pleased if
you will have a cup of tea or smoke with them. In the
centre of the back of the shop a little lamp is kept burning
before a small image, surrounded by paper flowers, or a
few plants, such as the favourite narcissus, or the dwarf
orange. The coloured scrolls hung on the walls of the shops,
some with painted devices, others covered with Chinese
characters in bright tints, give a gay appearance, and, with
the exhibited wares, are most attractive to the " outer bar
barians." We also saw curtains, elegant embroideries on
silk and satin, delicately carved ivories, ornaments, jewel
boxes, chessmen, walking-sticks of ebony, horn, ivory,
bamboos with embossed silver knobs. Other shops contain
all kinds of highly wrought silver and gold — bangles, rings,
tea services, etc. — while in others the wares are too nume
rous to mention. The whole has, with so much colour, a
most attractive effect, and beguiled us into spending a good
many hours, going from shop to shop to examine " curios " ;
it all ended in spending money, for our purses got lighter
and our portmanteaus heavier.
The Chinamen shopkeeper takes life easily, and does not
seem to care whether his patron buys or not. He greets you
with " Chin, chin," whatever that may mean, and is then
content for you to find out your own requirements.
We were amused with the costermonger class, who
abound here as well as in London. Their business is gener-

China. 157
ally fruit, of which there seems an abundant supply from
both tropical and temperate zones.
" The itinerant barber seems to be a man of some
importance. The customer squats upon his haunches in
the street, and has his head shaved, ears cleaned out,
eyelids scraped, and any obtruding hairs removed from
his nose ; then comes the important operation of narrowing
the eyebrows to suit the face. Should the customer require
any medical assistance the barber is consulted, and the
medicine produced out of the same box in which he
carries his instruments.
" Next comes the letter-writer, who has the confidence
of his customers. He sits at the corners of the streets,
and is supposed to be well versed in the black art, and can
give his customers trustworthy information as to the future.
In writing a letter the party dictating generally consults
the writer as to the probable success of his missive,
whereupon the learned scribe requests his customer to
shake a tin box full of small bamboo sticks until one
falls out. These sticks are all numbered, and refer to a
tablet on which a list of good and evil fortune is inscribed.
Should the omen be bad, a repetition is requested."
Our observations lead to the conclusion that the Chinese
are industrious people, living frugally ; but they are great
gamblers and frequenters of opium-smoking houses.
One afternoon we secured a sleeping place on the Hankow
steamer, a large flat-bottomed boat built on the principle of
an American river steamer. The upper deck is set aside
for Europeans, and the lower for Chinese, who have not
many provisions for comfort on account of the cheap rate
at which they are carried— 10 cents each, equal to about
3\d. There were over fifteen hundred on board. These
people were guarded by policemen with loaded firearms ;

158 China.
for about two years ago an attempt was made to seize the
ship. On another line a short time ago the English were
murdered, with the result that thirteen pirates had their
heads cut off, after being tortured. The first part of the
voyage was through the harbour, then past some islands to
the mouth of the Pearl, or Canton River, which for a time
is narrow, and then opens out into an estuary with many
islands. At 7.30 the anchor was dropped for the night, and
the dinner-bell rang. They gave us quite a banquet, and
we spent a very jolly evening.
At daybreak the anchor was weighed, and after a time
the shore on each side of the river became most interesting
— passing vast plains of rice, or paddy fields belted with
orange and lychee trees ; then by the sides of hills clustered
with tea-trees and plants ; on again through vast orchards
of mulberry trees and the useful and curious tallow-plant,
interspersed with plantations of bamboo, which we are told
is the " inseparable companion of John Chinaman from his
birth to the grave. It receives the infant, corrects the
boy, is the means of living for the man, and entwines the
corpse." Several villages and small towns were passed,
each with its prominent square brick building, which is
provided in every town, and worked by the Chinese
Government as a pawnshop. These are very much used
by the rich as well as the poor ; the name in Chinese is the
same as we use — " uncle." It is quite common for people
in summer to pawn their winter clothes and other valuables,
for safety.
About 8 o'clock we approached the city of Canton,
90 miles from Hong Kong, and were much struck by
the number of boats, the river being literally filled with
flotillas of junks and sampans, each having its family on
board. Some had bamboos and earth sufficient to form a

Ch

ina.

159

garden for flowers, etc. It is estimated this river popula
tion numbers 300,000. These people not having homes on
shore, are forbidden to land without permission from the
Governor. The largest portion is moored in long lines on
the side of the river opposite Canton, and forms quite a
city of boats.
Our guide, Ah Kum, Oriental Hotel, arrived just as we
were sitting down to breakfast. He said, "English must
have tiffin and then start." We mustered twelve strong,
and went ashore in the sampan of Missey Cock Eye, a
wonderful woman with one eye and a large small family.
She and her daughter did all the work, for there was not a
man visible.
We landed at the Shameen, a small island conceded to
the British. Of course it is covered with good houses and
fine buildings, and nicely laid out with trees and shrubs.
Here we found a troop of coolies with palanquins, or chairs,
provided for us by the guide.
Our guide cautioned us not to get separated or remain
behind, or take much notice of the natives ; because there
is a strongly-marked antagonistic feeling against strangers,
especially English and French.
Crossing a bridge with strong iron gates (for the Chinese
are not permitted on the Shameen without written orders),
we entered Canton, with its population of upwards of two
million people. The city is surrounded by thick walls,
and divided into thirty-six sections, each having high
stone walls and strong iron gates said to be fireproof, and
serving the purpose of isolating fires and limiting riots.
Our guide told us that there are upwards of one hundred
"uncles" in the city, to which the people rush to deposit their
property for safe keeping if a panic arises. We found the
streets very narrow — about six feet — and the space lessened

1 60 China.
by the thousands of people passing, elbowing and jostling
one another on their onward course. Much space is also
taken up by long signboards hanging down and bearing
queer Celestial characters. The shops have no windows, and
are quite open. Some are only of one storey in height,
while others are of two storeys. In these shops various
trade operations are carried on, which can be seen from the
streets. We stopped several times on our way through the
city, to inspect various handicrafts — ivory carvers, silk
weavers, jewellers, carpenters, artists, ready-made clothes
shops, etc. These miles of streets all have names, and when
translated into English sound rather pretentious : " Ever
lasting Love," " Thousand Beatitudes," " Ten Thousandfold
Peace," " The Saluting Dragon," " Street of Refreshing
Breezes " — but not for an Englishman, because the odour
of these streets is so bad that we were provided with
camphor, eucalyptus, etc. The last-named street, in par
ticular, was a compound of offence to the nose. The value
attached to numerous descendants is set forth by the street
of " One Hundred Grandsons," and another " One Thousand
Grandsons," etc. We visited the jade stone market, which
is held daily for the sale of this much-prized stone. It is
in repute quite equal to our estimation of diamonds, and
worn by every Chinese lady ; if not real, then imitation.
The stone is imported from Turkestani, where are the only
mines of it in the world.
We were carried to a number of celebrated temples, some
of little interest, but it was a change from the palanquin,
which becomes most fatiguing. Our situation sometimes
was far from pleasant, we being assigned to bring up the
rear, and seeing the excitement of the natives who hissed
and hooted. Many gesticulated with their hands, signifying
cutting off the head, and others shouted, " Kill the foreign

X
u

China. 163
devils." One man, more violent than the rest, threw a
stone which hit me on the head, but without damage.
The most favoured temple was the Five-hundred
Genii, around which were arranged five hundred life-sized
gilded images, to form a double square. There was a
statue of " Emperor Keinlung," besides three other swells
who kept watch over their Buddhist brethren. Then came
the " Temple of Longevity," with its four frightful images,
who act as gatekeepers. Inside are three gilded images
of Buddha, and a shrine with the colossal image of a fat
and jovial-looking Buddha of Longevity. " The Temple
of Five Rams," to which the five genii, who preside over
earth, fire, metals, water, and wood, descended from heaven
to Canton, was next. Here, too, in a belfry, is a great
bell, the striking of which is supposed to bring disaster.
Therefore great care is taken that you do not strike it.
A temple clock tower, from which for generations the
time has been announced, has a most cumbrous arrange
ment. There are four copper buckets, one above the other,
with taps, which drop water into the lowest one, containing
a float with an indication rod. Each hour is notified by
the man in charge, who displays a board with the proper
hour. On the top storey of this temple is a shrine to the god
Sin Funng, to whom masters and mistresses may apply
whose slaves have run away. We were told that slavery
still continues in Chinese domestic life, and slaves are an
article of merchandise.
We enjoyed a walk on the city walls. Outside these
is the "Happy Valley," which is said to extend 150
miles on the side of a hill, and where the graves are
scooped out, and the body pushed in.
At the foot of the hill are wells, from which numbers of

164

China.

people were carrying water ; reminding us of Hinderwell
churchyard, near Whitby, with the pump in the middle.
We had a good view of the city, which is said to be two
miles broad and six in circumference — only a small area
for two million people.
Continuing our walk we came to the Five-storied
Pagoda, a fine and curious building. After examining the
antiquated ordnance we started again in our chairs, and

A Chinese Execution.

visited the Koong Zuin, or Examination Hall. There are
7,500 cells (where students are placed for examinations),
each measuring about four feet by three, and high enough
to stand in. The furniture consists of two boards, one for
sitting , upon, the other for writing. The cells are arranged
round a number of courts, exposed to the view of soldiers to
prevent cribbing. The students remain until the questions
are answered without food, even for a week if necessary.
Our guide took us next to the execution ground, and
explained how the culprit was placed upon his knees, more

China.

165

dead than alive, and his head taken off with one cut of the
sword. Here were half a dozen wooden crosses, to which
the culprits are tied to undergo the death of " Lien Chie,"
a lingering death. For certain kinds of murders, such as
parricide, eighty-four cuts are inflicted with a knife, com
mencing at the forehead ; and the culprit bleeds to death.

A Chinese Court of Justice.
Then came a visit to the Temple of Horrors, where
models of the various methods of punishing criminals are
exhibited, most of them being barbarous in the extreme,
yet affording great attractions to the crowds of Chinese
onlookers, some of whom were burning tapers, and saying
prayers, either for themselves or their friends. We were
glad to get out of this immense rowdy crowd.

1 66 China.
We were next carried to the Courts of Justice (or In
justice), a large open square, with an entrance gate. At the
far side is a small square building, open to the square, and
containing a table, at which sat the mandarin, or judge,
and the officer who interrogates the prisoner, who is placed
just on the outside, with four officers. This is the process
of law : first to satisfy the mandarin of the guilt of the
prisoner, who is then brought in, and told he has com
mitted the offence. Should he plead guilty the punishment
is awarded, but if not, a system of tortures is applied each
day for half an hour until confession is made, or death
ensues. The first day thumb-screws and toe-screws are used ; the
second, the prisoner is made to kneel on the ground, then
his arms are stretched on a bamboo and tied, and the ends
of the bamboo are held up in a frame. Another thick
bamboo is placed behind his knees, and on each end a
heavy man stands, giving intense pain by the pressure.
In five minutes these men work the cane up and down,
lacerating the kneecaps, and causing the most frightful
agony. The poor criminal's screams and shrieks are dreadful.
This' is continued for half an hour, until the kneecaps are
broken and the muscles bruised, so that he has to be
carried away in a basket. This we saw performed upon
a man charged with murder, who knew that upon confes
sion his head came off.
On the third day the criminal is fixed upon a bamboo
frame with his head down. His feet are then beaten with
thick bamboos until all the bones are broken, and after
wards he is removed in a basket. We saw one brought in
a basket who had been so treated the day before. Poor
wretch ! he looked more dead than alive, and his feet were

China. 167
shapeless. He confessed, or would have been hung up face
downwards, with a cord fastened to his great toes and
thumbs and pigtail.
These scenes are so common that, although this place is
quite open to the street, few persons were present. It was
so horrible that we beat a retreat.
The gaol is an indifferent place, small and wretched.
All the prisoners are chained, and have on their necks a
huge wooden square, which prevents their lying down.
The only food they get is what friends may provide or
strangers give, so that deaths from starvation are not un- ¦
common. Canton must be seen to be understood, for otherwise it
is impossible to realise the effect of such a population in
so small an area, and to appreciate the intelligence and
education of such a mass. For the most part the people
are clean and tidily dressed. Some of the men have fine
frames, with well-proportioned limbs and very classical-
looking faces. We saw some of the ladies who claim to
be well born on account of their small feet ; in fact, some
seemed to have nothing left but the ankle joint. The
effect was not pretty, for it looked like walking on two
wooden legs.
Our guide told us we had been through about seventeen
miles of streets, and yet the coolies did not seem fatigued.
After another good dinner, relating experiences, and a
night's rest, we found ourselves at 6 in the morning back
in Hong Kong, where we spent the day in a variety of
ways. In the evening we bid good-bye to some of our
friends, and went on board the Airlie steamer for Shanghai.
After a sail of 850 miles we reached the lightship at the
mouth of the River Yang-tse-Kiang, and steamed into
Shanghai at breakfast time. Here we found a new con-

1 68 China.
dition of atmosphere, for it was quite frosty, and just like
an April morning in England. The trees were putting
forth their leaves ; the almond and other trees — the names
of which we could not ascertain — were in full bloom. We
took up our quarters at the Ashler House Hotel, and as
it was Sunday we went to the Holy Trinity Cathedral.
There was a special service for the Volunteers, who
mustered in goodly numbers.
Shanghai is a wonderful place, for, with a cold winter's
climate, there is corresponding energy. The river front
age extends over two miles, and is divided, the first
section being Chinese, with the walled city ; then comes
the French, and then the English, with a splendid wide
street and gardens facing the river, and magnificent build
ings such as banks, clubs, and business places (not shops),
hotels and residences ; it is called the " Bund." Then
comes the American, which is now nearly all English.
These are all divided by creeks from the river, and have
substantial bridges. Next year is the Jubilee, and it is
most wonderful what has been done in fifty years by the
English. A fine city, with a river full of ships, has sprung
into existence. There are many large river steamers, some
going 800 miles inland, and carrying from one to two
thousand passengers. Opposite where we landed there
were the remains of one which had been burnt a short time
ago, with a loss of over 700 lives.
We made several visits to the old Chinese city, with
its walls, — something like York or Chester, — only useful
as marks of antiquity. This city is said to have been
in existence two thousand years or more, and has made
little progress. We entered through the " Gateway Tower,"
with a door about six feet wide leading into streets not
any wider ; some much less, and all lined with shops

China.

169

without windows or doors, being similar to Canton, and
the same conglomeration of food, clothes, iron-ware, wood
carving, ivory, embroideries, gold and silversmiths, etc., and
the streets filled with people. Of course we had a guide,
or it would be impossible to find the way.
The Buddhist Temple is a fine place, and there was
a great service going on. All round the sides of the
building were life-sized figures, and one representing the
great Jost. The service seemed to consist in the people
purchasing so many paper prayers and placing them in
a large bronze urn with a fire inside. Then the high

A Jost Procession.
priest read prayers for all those people, and they were
happy. Adjoining this is a large building where hundreds
of candles were burning before large figures, and in urns
spices were burnt, making smoke which nearly blinded
us. Buddhist religion seems a most comfortable affair ;
you have only to pay, then it is all right.
We saw a grand Jost procession ; the finery was
immense, and the paraphernalia quite indescribable.
Jost was in a grand sedan chair, with green robes em
broidered most profusely with gold, but whether Jost
himself was alive or dead we could not decide. He had
a full-moon sort of face, with a gin-and-water nose and

1 70 China.
cod-fish eyes. It did not matter to us, so we walked on to
meet with other sights. Coming to the side of a small
lake with trees and tea houses of the oldest type, we
recognised — after being told by the guide — that this place
is the original of the blue willow-pattern plates. No doubt
it is, but other places claim the honour : we had not got
a plate, or we might have decided the question. However,
the trees are in tubs or pots, and have been trained in
willow-plate fashion for centuries. The scene was so
attractive with its quaintness that we remained some
time, in spite of typhoid-looking waters and foetid smells.
These tea houses were filled with men and women smoking
pipes and drinking tea. (We will speak of Chinese women
afterwards.) Near this is the Aquarium, if it may be thus
styled, — a court with about a hundred earthenware jars a
yard in diameter, filled with all kinds of gold fish. We have
only seen orte kind before : here were a dozen, some like
poodle dogs without legs, others with eyes protruding like
telescopes and much too large for the head. Great care
seemed to be taken for their welfare. A coolie was hard
at work raising water from a well to supply the jars.
On one side of this place was a tea house, crowded to
excess, if that is possible in China, to witness a singing-
bird competition. The roof was covered with birdcages
containing all kinds, and the noise was deafening. How
the judges could decide is best known to themselves.
Our next visit was to the Courts of Justice, where we
found everything just the same as in Canton, and the
tortures very similar. It appears the European population
have had a meeting, and petitioned the Emperor of China
to relinquish these tortures, asking for the punishments
to be similar to those of the mixed court in the European
quarter, which answers very well. In the prison we saw

China.

171

a lot of miserable-looking people, who were dirty and
wretched ; some with boards, others without. LOn the
outside of the prison, boards are arranged with holes for
the head, in quantities of six, both for men and women,
who stand with their hands tied for days.
" We hung out our banners on the outward walls," in the
shape of handkerchiefs saturated with eucalyptus held to
our noses, and there viewed the streets and "cat walks."

Female Punishment.

There are plenty of cats who parade the roofs, get fat, and
are eaten, their skins being exposed for sale at the shop
doors. We only saw one piece of ordnance, and that
of a mild description.
Shanghai and the country round is quite flat ; conse
quently there are many carriages, both private and for
hire, hundreds of jinrickshas, and a conveyance with one
wheel, much like a barrow, but the wheel is large and in
the centre, with a seat on each side, after the style of an

172 China.
Irish car. Frequently four persons are carried ; sometimes
a man on one side and a pig or a box on the other.
We did not try this conveyance. One afternoon we took
jinrickshas and went to some gardens three miles in the
country, passing the racecourse and many fine-looking
villas on the English pattern. These gardens are called
Tea House Gardens, and are laid out in the willow pattern,
with lakes and houses in different parts of the grounds.
In one house, in a large room on the second floor, a concert
was going on. The instrumental portion was of the rudest
description, — a violin-looking affair with one string, some
metal drums beaten with a stick, and a double tambourine
with a marble inside, composed the orchestra. In the
centre was a grotesque human being (whether male or
female we could not diagnose) with a false moustache and
beard, screaming with all its might at intervals. The
audience was for the most part Chinese females and
children elegantly dressed, with pearls and jade stones
in the hair, which must have taken some hours to arrange,
a complexion as " fair as a lily and blushing as a rose,"
and garments of the richest embroidered silks and satins,
with their small feet encased in embroidered satin shoes.
On their arms was a great display of bangles, mostly gold,
and rings of all kinds on their fingers, the ends of which
were in gold sheaths to protect the nails, as what we
ruthlessly abbreviate with scissors is supposed to be one of
the Chinese beauty adornments ; but whether for use or
ornament is a question John Chinaman can decide. In
another building we had tea a la Chinese, served in their
usual way, a small cup without a saucer being placed
before us ; then a larger cup containing tea and rose
leaves was half filled with boiling water and a saucer
placed on the top. After a minute the tea was poured

China. 173
into the small cup and sugar added according to taste, but
no milk or cream. At the adjoining table some young
Chinese ladies were surprised at the watch bracelet of one
of our party, and examined it with great interest. To
mark their appreciation they handed a water-pipe as the
pipe of friendship, to be smoked with them. The finish of
the refreshment was marked by a boy handing to each
person a napkin wrung out of hot water. We wondered
how the fine complexion faces would stand this, but after
being freely used the face remained the same. We said
" Chin-chin," and departed.
Our jinricksha men brought us back at a good pace, and
for the whole, waiting included, we paid a little over a
shilling each.
We did what is known as a day up the river, starting at
10 o'clock in a " wheel sampan," — that is, a large boat
or barge propelled by a paddle wheel in the stern, which
is worked by eighteen coolies, just the same as the tread
mill ; it seemed hard work.
Passing through long lines of shipping, men-of-war
of several nations and junks innumerable, we came to
the Chinese Arsenal, a large place, with black, smoking
chimneys and swarms of men. Then, passing villages
looking dreadfully poor, our boat turned into a narrow
river leading to the Buddhist temples and pagoda of
Langhua, to which pilgrimages are made for religious
purposes. The Temples are very large, splendid and
curious ; seven in number. The seventh is much grander
than the first, and represents the seventh heaven. They
all contained a Jost or god in the shape of a huge gilt
figure in the centre, with figures all round. The burning
of spices and paper money was going on just the same
as at other temples, and pilgrims were performing their

1 74 China.
devotions. There is a village of a few hundred people, all
beggars from childhood to old age, and most persistent
beggars, too, each carrying a flat collecting basket ; and
a dozen or more are pushed at you at once.
It seems the same as in Italy and Ireland : religion,
beggary, and dirt go together.
The pagoda is very fine and of early date. It is seven
stories high, with a fine view from the top. There being
nothing else to see, we went on board a superior sailing
sampan, and found a swell lunch, or tiffin, sent from
Shanghai, — hot soup, cold chicken and ham and other
good things, wine, beer, coffee, etc. After discussing this
meal, anchor was weighed, and the huge sail, rigged on
bamboo, was set ; and as there was a fresh breeze we went
away at a tearing pace.
Another day we went to afternoon tea, in answer to an
invitation from Miss H  , at the London Mission, and
had an enjoyable time. The London Mission is a large pile
of buildings containing chapels, hospitals, and dwelling-
houses, situated in the European Chinese quarter. It is
wonderful how the Chinese have improved under European
rule. The streets are wide and clean, and the shops are
large and well kept. The population of this part is about
eighty thousand well-tc-do people, who carry on all kinds
of occupation, and have places of amusement. Among
the number is a theatre, where we spent our evening,
deriving much amusement. The building seats over a
thousand, and was well filled, the ground floor being
patronised by the masses, and the swells were in private
boxes arranged round a gallery. It was lighted with
gas and electric light, and the coloured costumes of the
Chinese gave quite a' gay effect, as all the boxes were
occupied by Chinese ladies, gentlemen, and children.

China. 175
The first part of the amusement was Chinese acrobats
and jugglers, who did some wonderful things ; then came
a laughable farce ; but as far as we were concerned it was
a pantomime. Some of the situations were very amusing,
and spectacles grand in the extreme, as the costumes and
flags were far beyond anything we have ever seen for
richness in gold and colour. The music — a libel on the
name — -was horrid, consisting of an instrument like a
bad bagpipe, and beating on tom-toms, accompanied by
castanets. When this ceased, and the actors were on the
stage, there commenced clanging a cracked chapel bell,
or perhaps it might be beating on a tin dish. Oh, it was
a nerve-racker and ear-distracter !
Soon after we took our seats in a box with rails to sit
upon, and not cushions, tea d la Chinese was set before
us ; then came the hot napkin, which we used, of course.
After a little time oranges and pears were served, then hot
napkins ; after that, sweetmeats and water-chestnuts, then
again hot napkins ; cigars, mandarin oranges, and all sorts
of things, with hot serviettes, came every quarter of an
hour, and this was going on in all the boxes without the
least effect upon the paint or enamel on the faces. What
with steam from these " face cloths," and tobacco smoke,
there was, as the Scotch say, a good " reek." All these
people were most orderly, and seemed to thoroughly enjoy
their amusement, looking fat and jolly. We did not see
the finish at 1 2 o'clock, being afraid of the crush.
The Chinese quarter was most striking at night, for all
the shops and tea-houses were illuminated with hundreds of
Chinese lanterns, and all the jinrickshas are obliged to carry
a lantern, which swings about as the coolies run.
We were most fortunate in seeing a Chinese funeral.
It was not fortunate for the -poor man who had died;

176 China.
however ; our presence did not bring the man to his end.
Coming along the street was a band, not of music, but of
noises, .followed by about a dozen men dressed in green
with peculiar trimmings on their clothes ; then came the
huge coffin, large not to fit the corpse, but because coffins
are nearly all one size, perhaps to accommodate the grave-
diggers. The coffin was slung with cords on to a bamboo,
and carried by four coolies, followed by the widow in
a jinricksha, covered over with a straw extinguisher to
hide her grief from the crowd. The remaining cortege
consisted of about twenty jinrickshas, filled with males and
females, laughing and talking with the crowd.
Many of the Chinese speak a kind of English called,
" pigeon English," and they understand much better if
you adopt a similar style. The following is some of it.
Waiters, etc., are all styled " Boy." So we said, " Boy, take
Missie cup tea upstairs." He came and said, " Missie no
top side up ; Missie no bottom side down," meaning he
could not find her.
April gth. — We sailed from Shanghai at 9.30 on a
beautiful spring morning. The birds were singing, and
all Nature seemed gay. It was most interesting sailing
through the numbers of anchored ships, junks, and the
many ships of war belonging to China and other nations,
all looking idle and inoffensive.
It carries one back over a long period to see "junks"
used as ships for fighting, but there were many armed with
three cannon on each side and a pivot gun in the stern.
The gay decoration of these junks is wonderful — the
bow representing a huge fish's head with a large eye, about
three feet in diameter on each side, and the square, high
stern painted to represent an enormous monster. The
masts are also peculiar — some having four, others five, but

China.

177

not all in a row, as is usual according to our ideas. They
are very long to be in one piece, and when the square sail .
is set in a good wind they bend something like a fishing-
rod. There is an immense traffic on this Uri-Lung river,
which runs into the Yang-Tse-Kiang, one of the largest
rivers in the world, and navigable for junks upwards
of 3,000 miles. The merchandise, and a considerable

Chinese Fishing.
portion of the passenger traffic, is carried on in junks,
and the foreign business is all done through Shanghai.
Chinese fishing is a great institution, and there are many
and peculiar methods of catching fish. One is the em
ployment of cormorants, trained for the occupation. A
fisherman on a small bamboo raft has six or eight of these
birds perched on the sides, each bird having a ring round
its neck to prevent it swallowing any but small fish. The
man sculls down the river until the birds become uneasy,
12

1 78 China.
when the raft is stopped and over go the birds, returning,
as soon as the fish is secured, to their perches. The man
then takes the fish out of the bird's throat, and so the
operation goes on all day. The timber junks are wonderful
spectacles, as the timber is packed on each side until the
junk in the middle looks quite small.
At the bifurcation of the rivers is a fortification, behind
which many, indeed quite a fleet, of war junks are anchored,
looking as though one or two English gun-boats would
dispose of them in an hour. The mouth of the Yang-Tse-
Kiang becomes so wide, that if it were not for the colour
of the water it is like being out at sea. We had quiet
weather in the Yellow Sea, but this changed as we got
into the Sea of Japan, where the seas became considerable,
and interfered with the comfort of most of the passengers.

XI.
JAPAN.

CHAPTER XI.
JAPAN.
"DASSING the harbour — a natural harbour of refuge — of
J- Nagasaki, we sailed under the protection of many
islands, which were most picturesque in appearance. Some
of them were like cones with a few trees at the apex, and
brown earth or sand at the base, while others looked most
fertile, and are cultivated in terraces something like the
vines on the Rhine. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon
we sailed into the Straits of Shimonoseki, which in some
places are not more than half a mile wide, with villages on
both sides. When the ship's siren was sounded a consider
able number of Japs came out to see us pass.
The hills on both sides are of considerable altitude,
highly cultivated, and exceedingly pretty. There are
several fortifications on the hills, looking somewhat for
midable, but in 1864 they soon had to cave in under a
bombardment. This strait led us into the renowned inland
sea of Japan, which for the first hundred miles is somewhat
wide, and not of particular interest beyond being surrounded
by mountains. We steamed at slow speed, and arrived
soon after 5 o'clock in the morning at the islands. All

1 82 Japan.
the passengers turned out to witness the sunrise, and enjoy
the frosty air of this beautiful morning. Being a great
change after the tropics we had to pile on all available
wraps. It certainly is a wonderful sight to see so many
islands, estimated by the Japs at several thousands. The
question is, have they been counted ?
The smaller islands are of every conceivable fantastic
shape, some being mere rocks, while others are of con
siderable height and size. Nearly all are inhabited by a
half-farming, half-fishing population. The shores are lined
with villages, the hillsides laid out in highly cultivated
plots, and the waters studded with very small-looking
junks and fishing boats. In some of the passages between
the islands the channels are very narrow, and there is
hardly room for two vessels to pass.
After a splendid day, with floods of sunshine, we arrived
at Kobe about 5 o'clock. The work of getting ashore
in a steam launch was quickly accomplished. The Jap
Customs selected only two boxes out of all the luggage
for examination. Fortunately, neither belonged to us,
though the process was only superficial. After establishing
ourselves at the " Hiogo Hotel " we went for a walk before
dinner, and were accompanied the whole way by jinricksha
men, who could not be made to understand that their
services were not required.
We enjoyed our first walk in Japan, for the novelty of
the people and town, as well as the beauty of the situation,
appealed to our admiration. The European Settlement, as
it is called, faces the sea, and the foreshore rejoices, like
Shanghai, in the name of " Bund," where there are sub
stantial buildings — the Banks, British Legation, extensive
warehouses, offices, and this Hotel in the centre, with sixty-
five apartments, most of the rooms being arranged in suites.

Japan. 183
There are only about 600 Europeans, 300 of whom are
English, with about 130,000 Japs, who are such enter
prising people that they use every effort to supplant
Europeans. Twenty years ago this was a fishing village, now it is a
fine city with wide streets, all sorts of institutions, and
lighted with electric light. There are railways, telegraphs,
and telephones, and a splendid harbour filled with ships
from all nations.
April 1 2th, Tuesday. — A pouring wet morning and a
great disappointment. After breakfast we arranged our
luggage, and sent all, except a Gladstone bag, to Yokohama,
to meet us there in three weeks' time, because many
journeys had to be made in jinrickshas.
We then went to the Legation for "passports," and to
the Bank to change money. After that we spent some
time in visiting large establishments, where all the products
of the arts and manufactures can be seen and purchased.
Our notions of Japanese wares, from what has been seen
in shops elsewhere, or even at the Japanese exhibitions,
fell far short of what can be seen here. The real curios
are works of art, and command high prices. In the after
noon there was an improvement in the weather, so we
took jinrickshas to the " Nunobiki," or waterfall, two
miles from here, on a broad, even road, lined on either
side with commodious tea-houses, mineral baths, and re
freshment stalls. Several foreign-built houses are scattered
along the western slopes, commanding a fine view of the
mountains and Osaka Bay.
The trees are very striking just now, being covered with
blossom. The cherry and peach look wonderfully gay.
The falls are very pretty, and gave a good effect after the
heavy rain. The first one is about seventy feet, and the

1 84

Japan.

second eighty-five feet. The foliage at the sides is lovely,
with large bushes of camellias in flower.
We patronised two tea-houses commanding views of the
falls, and had tea in Japanese fashion, served by pretty
little maidens, or, as they are called here, " Musmees," who
were most polite and full of fun. They seemed to enjoy
our presence much more than we did their tea. The
novelty of their costumes
and familiarity were some
thing new to us. One
striking feature of these
people is their smallness ;
it makes us feel quite tall.
The average for men is
about five feet, and women
four feet six. They have
rather large heads and
faces for such small
bodies, hidden by their
costumes and high pat
tens, raising them at least
three inches from the
ground. The natural
politeness of these little
A "Musmee." people is something won
derful. Upon entering and leaving a room, and when
ever they are spoken to, they make a bow which would
quite put to shame a Frenchman. We saw the hotel
proprietor knock a man down and swear at him, but he
soon regained his feet, made a most polite bow, and
retired smiling. Every Jap seems to smile and look
pleased even under trying circumstances. We had quite
a bevy of tradesmen in our bedroom to show their wares,

*A»

Japan. 185
and when we did not buy they bowed and went away
smiling. April 13th, Wednesday. — Being a fine morning we rose
at 5.30, and had a look round, then took a jinricksha, and
went all through the old part of the town. Most of the
houses are built of wood, splendidly fitted together, for
Jap joiners are artistic workmen. There is very little
glass used. In summer the house fronts are quite open,
and in winter frames filled with rice-paper act as windows,
and look like ground glass, but it is quite easy to put your
stick through them.
At 9.30 we started by rail for Osaka, which is an hour's
ride through a highly-cultivated country. The peach and
cherry blossom were in great perfection, and the plain at the
foot of the mountains wonderfully laid out for irrigation ; the
whole is kept like a garden, and planted with rape, which
is a large industry, as the seed is exported to all parts of
the world. Rice is largely grown, and it is considered at
the top of the tree for quality in many markets.
The houses and temples of several villages we passed on
our way were most picturesque, and the number of people
travelling made the train look quite English. The officials
were all dressed like Europeans. At Osaka station a
number of people got out. We took jinrickshas to the
" Hotel Jintei," which is certainly not English, and secured
a funny little room over a river. This place is called the
" Venice of Japan." There are any amount of rivers and
canals. These rivers are crossed by 400 bridges of
wood, stone, and iron, and some of the modern bridges
over the Yodogawa are very fine structures of stone and
iron. The area of the city is about 8 miles square ; it
has a population of over 600,000, only 80 of whom are
Europeans.

1 86 Japan.
Osaka is situated on a plain, with the Bay of Osaka
on one side and mountains on the other. It is a very fine
city, with miles of good streets, and a most industrious
population, who manufacture all kinds of things in their
shops. We visited the Government bazaar, for the sale
and exhibition of all local products, and were astonished
to find nearly everything required by man at cheap prices.
In the same place is a museum of antiquities, and the
Botanical Gardens, where the trees were in full bloom.
There is also a small collection of animals, all kept in the
most perfect order. On elevated ground stands the Castle,
built about three hundred years ago, with a large moat
round it, and at that time it must have been impregnable,
being built of stones, brought over fifty miles. The stones
are the largest we ever saw in a building, and the wonder
is how in those days of little or no machinery such weights
could be dealt with. Curiosity led us to measure some
of them, and, computing the weight at twelve cubic feet
to the ton, gave three to four hundred tons as the weight of
some blocks.
It is approached by a strong tower, and the walls enclose
a large area, containing a fine house or mansion for the use
of the " Shogun " when he visited this place. , There are
gardens, barracks, drill grounds, magazines, etc. From the
upper part there is a fine view of the city and surrounding
country, and we were on the top when the 12 o'clock gun
was fired.
After tiffin a long ride brought us to the celebrated
Temple of Tennoyi, with the usual approaches. On
entering the great south gate we found ourselves in a
large open space, in the centre of which is the grand
temple, and opposite is a fine five-storied pagoda, built five
hundred years ago to give employment to the people. On

Japan. 1 8 7
the other side is the " Indo-no-kane," or Bell of Leading,
which is rung in order that the " saint prince " may lead the
dead into paradise. In the same enclosure is the tortoise
pond, where people make an offering of a tortoise, which is
never destroyed ; consequently, there is a collection of a
thousand or two, or perhaps more. In the centre are two
large stages, upon which the animals perch. Hundreds are
swimming round the edge with their heads out, asking for
food. The trees are very fine, and of various kinds. The
most conspicuous are the camphor, cedar, and wild cherry,
now in bloom. We will defer any description of the
temples until more have been seen.
Returning we came to the show streets, where are the
theatres, jugglers, conjurers, and all sorts of amusements.
They were full of people, who were making any amount of
noise. There are six theatres, and the performances com
mence at 9 o'clock in the morning and end at 9 o'clock in the
evening. The guide told us that the exports from this city
are immense ; and in umbrellas alone last year over 700,000
left the city for various parts of Japan and China. The
river seems quite busy at night with boats going backwards
and forwards, the people spending hours every night sailing
about. They have music and refreshments, and their boats
are illuminated with the gayest lanterns.
April 14th, Thursday. — A brilliant spring morning, with
a cool, sharp air. We started in jinrickshas for the station,
and passed through two miles of streets. The shops looked
very gay with their wares exhibited. Crowds of passengers
were waiting for the train. It gave us an opportunity
to examine the condition of travellers in comparison
with other countries. All the people were clean, well
dressed, and orderly, and there was no crushing or
crowding. Their politeness to each other, and especially

1 88 Japan.
to the females, and those with children, was most pleasing
to observe. Their gay costumes looked admirable, except
where some had a mixture of Japanese and European,
the hat being the offending covering. Imagine a gay Jap's
costume being crowned with a " bell topper " !
Leaving the city, we saw two large manufactories built
of brick and stone, not quite as large as Saltaire, but
certainly much larger than most of our mills. It appears
one belongs to a company (Limited) for the production of
cotton, and the other for woollen, both of which staples
have to be imported.
We passed several large villages, with their respective
temples, and through highly cultivated lands, until coming
near the mountains, when the train followed the course
of a pretty river, winding round hills covered with trees,
and quite reminding us of Switzerland.
Arriving at Nara, we reached one of the oldest towns in
Japan. For some years in the eighth century it was the
capital ; and although it has much decreased in size, many
traces of its former grandeur still remain.
At the railway station we took jinrickshas, and, winding
round several roads, and up hills, arrived at an imposing
tea-house, overlooking a fine park with stately pine and
other trees, some of the trunks being 30 feet in circum
ference. It might well have been Studley, or Knowle, or
any other well-timbered English park, plentifully stocked
with deer.
After arranging for lunch, which we had brought with
us, and a table and a few chairs (for, being Japan, there
were only cushions on the floor, and no tables or chairs
existed), we started through the park, and at the end of a
long avenue reached the temple Wakamiya, dedicated to
Anna-no-Koyane.

Japan. 189
This long avenue was lined on each side with handsome
lanterns made of fine sandstone, about 6 to 8 feet high,
with inscriptions upon the stem. The upper part, or
bonnet, is hollow, and holds the light, which has before
it a piece of rice paper as a protection against the wind.
These lanterns, for half a mile, are packed closely to
gether on both sides of the road, and have been presented
to the temple by sinners, or otherwise, who wished to have
their way lighted to " Glory."
Near the temple is an open shed highly decorated, where
pilgrims bow down, and, as in our case, travellers rest.
Opposite, is a long, low building, which is occupied by the
priests, and where all their paraphernalia is kept. Having
made arrangements by means of the " almighty dollar,"
three pretty young girls appeared from behind a curtain,
dressed in wide red trousers, with white stockings, but no
shoes, and a gauzy mantle trailing on the floor behind them,
inscribed all over with Japanese characters.
A description of the head-dress is left to the last on
account of its grandeur, which eclipsed the whole. The
hair was gathered into a long tress, and hung down the
back, being secured by gold rings having another or double-
ring, 00, standing off. Then near, the head came some
golden skewers, and on the forehead there was a large
bunch of artificial flowers, wisteria and scarlet camellia,
ornamented with more gold. The faces of the girls were
plastered over with white, and the lips were rose colour.
The orchestra consisted of three female priests, one flute,
and one tom-tom, whilst the third sang a kind of dirge.
Meanwhile the girls went through rather graceful gyrations,
first with branches of trees in their hands, and then fans
and small bells.
The temple, a fine building, was chiefly interesting on

190 Japan.
account of being filled with bronze lanterns, some of
exquisite design, and all with costly decorations.
Passing another red-and-white Shinto temple, somewhat
decayed but celebrated, and also the much-famed bell,
which was cast in 732 A.D., and is 13 feet high, and 37 tons
in weight, we came to the " Todaigi," wherein is the
immense building, said to be 290 feet square, and containing
the largest " Daibutsu "or Buddha in Japan. This Buddha
is composed of bronze, which at one time was gilt all over ;
but, through suffering from fire three times, and having to
be repaired considerably, like Paddy's coat, the gilt is now
in patches.
The figure is enormous, and, although in a sitting pos
ture, is over 60 feet high. The legs are crossed, the right
hand uplifted, and the palms turned outwards.
On the right-hand side is a gilt figure 18 feet high, and
on the left another about the same size, but looking as
nothing in comparison with the large figure.
In another building round the sides is arranged an
exhibition of ancient fine art objects, and the present
works of art and manufacture in the district. This is
provided by the Government, which seems anxious to
educate the tastes of the people. Returning to the tea
house through the park, we saw herds of deer, quite tame,
which followed us for food, and ate out of our hands
There were also two white ponies in stalls, standing with
their heads out, ready to take biscuits. These are holy
animals, and dedicated to the temple.
Our lunch was an amusing affair, but it had to be cut as
short as possible, owing to our having a long ride before
us. At 2 o'clock we started in jinrickshas, with two men
each, for a ride of 28 miles. This seemed quite impossible,
for the afternoon was very hot. However, the first 14

Japan. 191
miles were accomplished in ten minutes under two hours.
The road was good, winding round high hills covered with
trees, and following the course of a fine mountain river for
many miles.
The land is in the highest state of cultivation, and like
well-kept market gardens, growing rape, wheat, and, where
irrigated, rice. There are large orchards of fruit-trees, all
trained on bamboos, and large tea-plantations also with
bamboo frames, to protect, when covered with mats, the
leaves from the sun. We were told that some of the tea
grown here fetches three dollars per pound — that is, nearly
nine shillings.
Passing through several long villages, a halt was made at
a small one where the water was good. The jinricksha-
men, after their run of 14 miles, drank some, and then
washed themselves, and in half an hour, having had a little
smoke, were ready to start. We regaled ourselves with
cups of tea, being, as it would appear, more tired than the
men. Starting again, we came to a large village, which was a
mile long, called Fushimi, where the population rushed out
to see " foreign mans." Crossing a fine river, larger than
the Rhine at Coblentz, we followed a road made across the
arm of the lake, Oike, where a considerable amount of
fishing is done in all ways, traps, nets, etc., and where rice
is cultivated in the shallow places. The sun setting behind
the mountains was very beautiful, and the reflections in
the water extremely pretty.
On entering Kioto, lights were just coming from the
houses, and, passing through a long street, we arrived at
the foot of the hill leading to our hotel, the " Yaami," at
6.30 p.m., thus completing the second 14 miles in two
hours, the whole journey of 28 miles, with stoppages

192 Japan.
included, thus only occupying four and a half hours. The
men did not seem at all fatigued, and talked and laughed
as though they had been going at 3 miles an hour.
These men, who carried our by no means light weight,
were under five feet in height, and built like cobs. What
would one not give for such lungs and endurance !
In passing through this 28 miles of lovely country we
never saw any sheep or horses, only two bullocks, about
three dogs, and nowhere a glass window.
The " Yaami " is a splendid hotel, about 200 feet above
the plain, on the side of a thickly wooded hill, and is built
in sections like three Swiss chalets, with verandahs on
each floor.
The city, lighted with electric lights, looked like the
heavens on the ground.
April 1 $th, 1892, Friday. — Kioto, or Kyoto, is a large city,
with a population of 320,000 ; it is on a plain surrounded
with mountains and well-wooded hills, and has a fine moun
tain river running through it. It also boasts of a canal 10
miles long, which was made four years ago at a cost of two
million dollars, as a means of conveying goods and pas
sengers to the villages on Lake Biwa, and also of supplying
water power to some manufactories. This city has an
ample supply of good water from Artesian wells, and also
of manufactories of all kinds, but of silk especially. A
great many streams of water, diverted from the river, flow
through the various districts, and are used as water power
or supply.
From the windows of this hotel there are superb views,
and the garden is an artistic creation. There are little
lakes, filled with gold fish about 15 inches long, crossed
by miniature bridges, and planted with miniature trees.
The magnolias were in full flower, and contrasted with the

Japan. 193
"wild cherry,' the sacred tree of Japan. There was a large
one in the road at the bottom of the garden in full bloom,
and fires were kept burning near it all night to keep off the
frost. We started after breakfast for the Castle, which is a fine
building in some large gardens, now used as an exhibition
of arts and manufactures, the grounds being laid out in
Japanese fashion.
After that we visited the gardens of the palace belonging
to the Mikado's mother — a large place, well laid out, and
having a diverted portion of the river running through it,
forming waterfalls and lakes, made with rocks, crossed by
fancy bridges. The trees were splendid and in full bloom,.
one curious tree being without bark, and its name, trans
lated into English, is the " monkey slip down tree."
After tiffin we had a ride of about 6 miles into the
hills to see the Golden Temple, which was built 630 years
ago. It is beautifully situated in a deep gorge, with trees
and a fine lake in front. The lake is well stocked with
golden carp, some two feet long, which are fed and kept
as holy fish. This is a Buddhist temple. Our road there
lay through tea and bamboo plantations.
At the Golden Temple we saw a most wonderful tree,
which has been trained to represent a junk. It is 30 feet
long and about 20 feet high, and must have had a great
deal of time spent over it, as every twig is trained.
Near the hotel is the temple of " Choin," approached
from the valley by long flights of stone steps 20 feet wide,
and a very massive structure. Still higher, in a belfry, is
the largest bell in Japan. It is said to be 18 feet high,
9 feet in diameter, and g\ inches thick, and can be heard
for many miles when struck with a timber beam.
In the evening we went to see the "cherry dance," which
13

1 94 Japan.
is performed during the first fortnight in April, when the
sacred cherry is in bloom. This dance is in a large
theatre, which is thoroughly Japanese. There are not any
seats, the audience kneeling and sitting on their feet on
the floor, which was covered with red rugs. It is surpris
ing how many can pack into a given space in this way,
men, women, and children, and all behaving with perfect
decorum, and using great politeness to each other. We
were first admitted to the waiting-room, and had the
pleasure of meeting some nice Japanese ladies and gentle
men, who gave us oranges, and in return we gave them
English cigarettes. The ladies seemed to enjoy the smell
of our style of tobacco.
The theatre is a large building lighted with the electric
light ; but, to keep up old customs, of which the Japs arc
very conservative, candles are used for footlights, and a
servant snuffs them when necessary.
The performance consists of two orchestras, one on each
side — on the left sixteen elegantly attired musmees with
tom-toms and metal drums, and on the right sixteen more,
with an instrument similar to a guitar, but the strings were
struck with a piece of ivory like a paper-knife. Then came
sixteen musmees from each side of the stage, gorgeously
attired, having fans and cherry-blossom branches in their
hands. These thirty-two musmees advanced on the stage
with elegant movements of the body, making gestures with
their fans and branches of blossom, keeping time with the
music, and all singing a kind of chant. The performance
commences at 5 o'clock and continues till 12, the variations
being in the turns and gyrations. Once they presumably
represented cats on the housetops, all the actors mewing.
The musmees are the singing and dancing girls employed
at the various tea-houses, one set only performing twice

Japan. 195
in the fortnight, thus giving the people an interest in
the various girls, most of whom are very pretty.
April 16th, Saturday. — On a brilliant morning we started
in our jinrickshas with two men, and proceeded at a good
pace through the city, which is 3 miles across, then
following the road bounded by fields all under irrigation.
We should call them market gardens, with their rape, rice,
spinach, etc. Ascending rising ground, and passing
temples, also the priests' residence, we came to tea planta
tions and miles of bamboo with its graceful foliage, some
of the canes being seven or eight inches in diameter ; then
winding round hills covered with cedar-trees, arrived at
a mountain river with a road by its side ; rising quickly,
we entered a gorge, making an ascent, which ultimately
was over 2,000 feet above the valley. The two coolies
maintained a pace of nearly 6 miles an hour, and
objected to our walking on account of the speed. When
nearly at the summit we came to a village with ample tea
houses. Here our men rested for ten minutes, and had some
water, then started again, and entered a tunnel nearly half
a mile long. On emerging, the view into the valley was
superb and enchanting, being full of sun, and looking into
another range of mountains. Descending rapidly, we came
to the village of Hoyii, a most curious place, probably not
changed for the last thousand years. The houses were all
thatched in fantastic forms, and the roads are hardly four
feet wide, and go at right angles on two sides of the houses,
the jinrickshas having some difficulty in getting round the
corners to reach the Kaburawaya, a fine mountain river.
At the end of this village the river, with its rocky bed
and huge stones, rushes into a deep gorge with mountains
rising almost perpendicularly from the water, which roars
and rushes as if to destruction. We were told that our exit

196 Japan.
was that way ; and although it looked impossible, the flat-
bottomed boats, about forty feet long, with their upturned
noses, were, like the eels, used to it ; so in we got with
'ricksha and coolies, and were pushed off by the hardy-
looking little Jap boatmen with their strong bamboos.
The boat seemed to take a header into the first rapid, which
sent our hearts into our mouths, but, after wriggling, twist
ing, splashing, and bumping on the rocks we got into
smoother water ; and then passed through 14 more rapids
in a distance of 13 miles.
The latter portion is very pretty, being well wooded, and
at one place having a Swiss-looking tea-house, with a fancy
garden. On this part there were dozens of boats, some
with picnic parties, others fishing and musical parties.
Miss and Master Jap have a great idea of rational pleasure,
and on these occasions indulge in fine clothes, and seem
very loving. A couple of miles lower down we came
to Arashizama, opposite the finest mountain of the locality.
Many cherry trees are cultivated on its slopes, and, being
in full bloom, produced an effect of wonderful beauty,
appearing like a cloud of deecy whiteness. Mingled with
the cherry was the maple, just then sending forth its new
leaves of copper colour, and on the banks of the river were
flourishing beautiful azaleas.
A bridge called Togetsukyo, meaning the " Moon- View,"
crosses at this point. We landed at a tea-house, and
from the upper verandah there was a continued beauty
of scenery quite indescribable, also something else which
attracted the attention — a most elegant lunch sent from
Kioto ; and as there were good appetites after the long
morning, we received with pleasure the attentions of the
pretty young musmees, who are good waiters.
At 3.30 another start was made in our jinrickshas,

Japan. 197
and we followed the course of the river for 2 miles, when
we came to the Buddhist Temple of Yanagidani, a very
famous temple, having many relics of the Mikados, and
also a stream of. water claimed to have great healing
powers. Just around this place some of the finest tea in
Japan is grown, and sold from three to five dollars per
pound. Four miles more brought us back to Kioto through an
agricultural district. We passed a gang of prisoners
chained in twos, and dressed in terra-cotta coloured
clothes, working on the land. It appears prisoners are
all employed in productive labour.
Near the hotel we saw a troupe of juvenile acrobats, six
in number, the eldest not more than eight years old. Two
played on the tom-tom, and a guitar sort of instrument,
while the others performed exceedingly wonderful feats.
April 17 th, Easter Day. — A glorious day spent in not
doing much, for the pressure and excitement of the week
had been considerable. We went to a few temples and saw
how religion is done, which was instructive. In the front
of the temple is a rope — perhaps half a dozen — attached
to a bell, and on the ground is a mat. The person rings the
bell to let " Diabutsu," his god, know he is there, then
deposits a coin, and bows his head to the ground, then
moves on quite briskly
April \8th, Monday. — A pouring wet day, so we visited
several manufactories, which were most interesting and in
structive. The particulars of Japanese manufactories shall be
given later on. In the afternoon we visited the Temple of
Higashi Hong Wanji (its sect being one of the twelve into
which the Buddhist religion is divided) ; it is in the course
of construction, and will, when finished, be the largest
Buddhist temple in Japan.

198 Japan,
The old temple was destroyed by fire during the Revo
lution of 1868, when Prince Choshu and his followers
attempted to seize the person of the Mikado.
This building is entirely of wood. All the foundations
are of granite, and the roof of tiles ; it has immense pillars
3 feet in diameter, of unusually hard wood called Kijaki,
which will stand a thousand years. All the woodwork is
of a massive description, and the perfection of workman
ship. No machinery has been used in the construction,
not even a winch, the heavy weights being got up by hand
labour on inclined planes. Some of these timbers weigh
many tons, and must have required hundreds of men to
carry them. It was found that a strong rope would be
wanted, so a levy was made upon the females for their
hair, when one and a half million women contributed, and
a rope 360 feet long and 5 inches in diameter was made.
This rope, after ten years' wear, is quite good. Most of
the hair is black or dark brown, with here and there some
grey. On a large board, written in Japanese and English, is the
following : "Length of building, 210 feet ; width, 170 feet ;
height, 1 20 feet ; number of large pillars, 96 ; tiles on roof,
163,512. Architect, Ito Heizaemon Amida-ito. Contractor,
Kinoko Tosai. This make notice, smoking cannot be
performed." Up to the present ^600,000 have been ex
pended, the voluntary contributions of the people either
in money, timber, or labour. The Temple stands in
a large area, with fine trees and shrubs, and will be
gorgeous when finished.
Soon after 9 o'clock we started in jinrickshas, and called
upon a silk manufacturer, where some purchases were
made ; then we drove out through many long streets to
the north end of the city, and followed the canal, to where

Japan. 1 99
there is a tramway wide enough to take the "junks " upon
an iron waggon (or boat) up an incline about a mile long,
until a height 700 feet above the valley is attained. This
is worked by a steel rope, and water power. Getting the
junk with its cargo and crew upon the waggon is ingenious.
The junk sails into a dock, and the waggon is raised up
sufficiently to secure the vessel, and then the ascent
commences. Following a country road uphill all the way, with now
and again steps, where we had to alight and climb while
our jinricksha man took up his vehicle, we were charmed
with the trees, flowers, and pretty views of novel-looking
buildings, real artists' corners, and a number of Japs
passing, the ladies and children in the gayest costumes, all
smiling and looking pleasant. We arrived at the entrance
to the Temple of Nanzenji, situated in a large garden and
grounds. This Temple is like a museum, there being
gallery after gallery of all kinds of works of art, pictures,
carved ivories, cloisonne work, lacquer work, old cabinets,
trays,.workboxes, swords, etc., all of the most elegant descrip
tion, contributions from nobles, and even the Mikado. After
spending some time in viewing these treasures we came
to the refectory, a room without furniture, excepting a
flower stand in the corner, and had to squat on the floor
as well as we could, and receive from a priest some powder
tea and cakes. He handed the gentlemen each a cup first,
which were of course passed to the ladies, but with an
impatient gesture he put them back. It appears in the
temple a woman only " plays second fiddle," and the man
must eat first.
Powder tea is the green leaf dried quickly, and then
reduced to an impalpable powder, and is so green that
there might be an addition of some chemical. About half

200 Japan.
a teaspoonful is placed in a cup with some boiling water,
and then the most elegant little whisk is used, making a cup
of green froth. It is very strong, and must be an acquired
taste. However, we drank it, and only felt stimulated. It, is
sure to come into use at teetotal dinners when known, for
we are told the second cup is an " eye-opener." The cost
was 35 cents for four persons.
In the temple proper there is a large painting 20 by 30
feet, representing in the middle , a dead priest surrounded
by crowds of people crying, and animals with large tears
in their eyes. Some of the expressions were most comical.
Leaving this place, and following a most picturesque
mountain road for some distance, we passed through a
gorge which opened on to a plain surrounded by tree-clad
hills, showing pines, cedars, and delicately leaved (brown)
maples, ali" fringed in with bamboos, and in the midst a
very pretty village, with tea plantations, and patches of
rape in full yellow bloom, the whole backed up with brown
volcanic mountains. A prettier scene could not be imagined,
and we saw it to advantage, being full of sunshine. Passing
through the village, we came to the celebrated Kurodani
Temple, beautifully situated on the side of a hill, also a
monastery. Here, for the first time, we heard priests and
young men chanting. There is a richly carved gilt shrine
containing the effigy of Honen Shonin, carved by himself
in 1 207, with many other treasures.
Opposite the temple are two wonderfully trained trees
500 years old. One is the tree of peace, for after a battle
the soldiers come to hang their armour upon it. Ob the
spur of a hill is a small temple commanding a fine, view,
and a little farther on, up a long flight of steps, is a cemetery
crowded with tombstones about 4 feet square, and touching
each other, as Japs are always buried sitting on their

Japan. 201.
feet, when not cremated. Now about one half go through the
sanitary process, when only one tooth and a piece of bone
from the throat are buried. Just outside the walls one of
our party killed a snake a yard long under a Persimon
fig-tree, when on the way to the Silver Temple, or Shirhniodo.
In this temple are some fine examples of painting in black-
and-white by Taigado, who lived 200 years ago. In the
grounds are fine trees with a meandering fancy lake full
of gold-fish. The nightingales and other birds were filling
the air with their songs. In the centre is a terrace of white
sand about 4 feet high, and done up in a curious shape for
worshipping the moon.
April 20th, Wednesday. — Soon after 8 o'clock we started
in jinrickshas, and, passing through the city, took our leave
of this charming place. For about 5 miles the road was a
stiff pull, winding through thickly wooded high Trills ;. and
we met crowds of gaily dressed country people, mostly in
jinrickshas, going to the city, also vegetable carts and other
produce, all worked by men and a few women. The entire
absence of horses seems very strange, but the fact of such
a profuse population, which has to live, is the cause.
Our men (two each) worked gallantly, and were full of
fun, apparently enjoying the long run. After 10 miles we
came to the town of Otsu, on the shores of Lake Biwa,
where the Russian Imperial Prince had his head cut by a
policeman's sword.
The lake is a fine sheet of water 45 miles long, surrounded
by volcanic mountains, some just like sugar loaves, and,
for the most part, devoid of vegetation. We saw several
steamers, and were told the names of two or three large
towns on the banks of the lake, but the crack-jaw com
bination of letters has departed from our brains. Otsu is
a town of 30,000 inhabitants, with military barracks and

202 Japan.
parade ground in front. A regiment of little soldiers were
hard at work. We visited the Temple of Miidera, and
had to climb a number of steps ; but as they were not
counted we will not venture to state how many. We pro
posed some one returning to count ; however, it was too
hot. There is a large bronze bell, said to have been carried
up by a giant. He must have been strong, for the bell is
a heavy one, weighing about six tons. This forms the
subject of a legend, which is in Japanese literature, well
illustrated, and rendered in verse. From the terrace
opposite there is a magnificent view of the lake and
mountains, which repays the fatigue of mounting the steps.
Returning, we went some distance by the shore of the
lake to see the wonderful tree called " Karasaki," famous
all over Japan. We bought a picture and particulars of it.
It is a pine tree 1,200 years old, and is the largest in the
world of its kind. The dimensions are as follows : height,
90 feet ; circumference of trunk, 37 feet ; length of branches
from east to west, 240 feet ; from north to south, 288 feet ;
number of branches, over 400; and the area covered is
210 yards. For preservation all holes in the trunk are
carefully filled with ground rice and " sake," then covered
with cement. After this we went to Biba, and took the
train for Nagoya.
We passed over the bridge of Seta spanning an arm of the
lake, then kept near the water for many miles. The country
was very striking, with its volcanic mountains, until the
train reached Hikone, at the head of the lake. Travelling
along we came to the scene of the earthquake of October
1 89 1, when it is said 25,000 people perished. Many houses
have been rebuilt, but still numbers remain in their dilapi
dated condition. It is sad to witness a scene of such

Japan. 203
destruction, which extends to where we were staying in
Nagoya. The hotel is quite Japanese, with a few European
additions in the shape of chairs and tables, is quite clean,
although in the middle of the town with narrow streets.
It rejoices in the name of " Shinachee." The musmees
were polite and pretty, and seem amused with our ways.
April 2\st, Thursday. — This morning we visited a cotton
factory employing 600 girls, and not having any machinery
beyond the handloom, weaving and spinning were done with
spinettes. The materials produced are very nice. Next
came a porcelain works, where artistic articles are produced,
and also a kind of cloisonne, which is effective, but common.
This place suffered by the earthquake, which was very
evident by the numbers of broken things, as well as the
walls being rent and torn. We went to see the old castle
surrounded by immense walls and deep moats. On the top
of the castle are two golden dolphins, said to be worth
180,000 dollars. One of them was sent to the Vienna
exhibition, and on its way back was shipwrecked, and lost
for some time, but was afterwards recovered, and restored,
with much rejoicing, to its original position.
Arriving at Shizouka, we expected to stay at the Daita
Kivan, an English style of hotel, but found it burnt down,
so we had to look out for a place, and were housed purely
Japanese. We had to take off our shoes at the door, and
don Japanese slippers, which are not comfortable to English
feet. In the first place, Japs' shoes are much smaller, and
constructed with a cord, which goes between the big toe
and his neighbours. To this our stockings object. An
introduction to our novel bedroom, up quite a " Jacob's
Ladder," convinced us that we could not quarrel with the
furniture, for there was none, with the exception of a

2'c>4 Japan.
mattress on the floor. There was much more chance of
a little sparring with our neighbours, from whom we were
divided only by a paper screen.
We raised a little table, upon which to write, but no
chairs, so we opened the windows to sit upon the edge.
When it got dark, a man came in with a candle in a bottle
and announced dinner.
A table had been formed with stools and chairs, and
a good dinner was served. Soup, fish, fillet of beef with
carrots, breast of chicken, French beans, Norwegian sausage,
or rather Japan sausage, bread pudding, Swiss roll, oranges,
tea — and such tea, only second to the best in Japan, not
much to be sympathised with !
It was most amusing. All the people in the house
assembled to see us feed, and I suppose our voices
attracted the people outside, for a few fingers came
through the rice paper windows, and then eyes could be
seen. After dinner several merchants from the town brought
in specimens of the local industries, such as fine bamboo
work, lacquer, and gold lacquer, a very celebrated produc
tion of Japan many years ago ; but now it has depreciated
for the want of gold. After a great deal of "haggling''
some purchases were made. The Japs are disappointed
if one concludes a purchase at once, thinking they ought to
have asked more.
We retired to our room, and found two men in attendance,
professors of massage, who offered their services for 20
¦cents. One was blind, so we declined his services, being
too feeling ; the other, a fine old chap, went to work, and
we were massaged all over, even to the inside of the
ears. It was a most wonderful performance, and seemed
to awaken dormant action all over.

Japan.

205

April 22nd.— We rose early, and had to be content
with small doings in the ablution way, for there was only
one towel, and that about as good as a baby's handkerchief,
and the quantity of water homoeopathic.
After breakfast we witnessed the dressing of the
musmees' hair, certainly a good performance. One of
these musmees, our guide told us, is a celebrated beauty.

Dressing Hair.
Certainly she is very pretty, with lovely eyes and a peach
complexion, no paint.
At 8 o'clock we said good-bye to these polite and
obliging people, and were soon run in jinrickshas to the
station. The weather was magnificent, and the route at the
foot of mountains on one side, and the sea and salt
water lakes -on the other, with rice fields, gardens, and
trees full of bloom. After two or three hours we came
in full view of Fujiyama, the highest mountain in Japan,

206 Japan.
with its snow and ice glittering in the sun. We never
saw a mountain look so high and imposing, and do not
wonder the Japs worship it. It is 12,500 odd feet above
the level of the sea, and as it springs from the seashore,
where we were, like a cone, one sees its magnificence and
grandeur without detraction from surrounding and lesser
lights, as it stands quite alone. For many centuries it
was an active volcano. The guide, who had been three
times on the top, said the summit was a basin about
half a mile across, and could be entered from either side.
It is a much more striking object than either Mont Blanc,
Vesuvius, or Etna, and, in the Southern hemisphere, Mount
Cook, 13,000 feet, on account of its isolation.
The railway winding round the base of the mountain
entered a valley, with Fujiyama on one side and the
Hakom Mountains on the other. Ascending 1,500 feet,
there was a fine plain, rich in trees of all kinds, mostly
in full bloom. At one station we saw an avenue of
camellias in flower, and the whole district was full of
these trees, not as we know the camellia bushes in
conservatories, but large trees.
Descending again, and winding round rocks on the
sea-beach through most picturesque scenery, we came to
a small station at 2 o'clock. Securing jinrickshas, we
followed the windings of a river for 6 miles until nearing
i a large sandbank. Leaving our conveyances, we scrambled
over, getting shoes full of sand as well as being hot, for
it was a hard tug.
Coming to the beach, as the tide was down, we walked
nearly a mile to the Island of Enoshima, covered with
trees. It is 300 feet high, and half a mile across. There
is a village with steep streets and rows of shops, where
they sell coral and shells, also other marine curiosities,

Japan. 207
one, the glass rope sponge {Hazalonema suboldi), obtained
from a reef off the island. At the head of the street is a
temple, and, after climbing numbers of steps, we arrived
at the top, and there had one of the finest panoramic views
possible. The bay on one side was screened by the mighty
Fujizama, and on the other by well-wooded hills with
numbers of small islands. Descending the face of the
island by steps cut out in the rock, we reached the sea,
and then walked 100 yards to the mouth of a long cave,
where candles were provided to light us to the end. In the
middle we crossed a bridge, and then came to a Shinto
shrine, where pilgrims worship. We saw many of them,
mostly old people and young mothers with their babies.
On the rocks were numbers of men-divers, who can stay-
under water a long time. We threw some coins, and had
the show. Returning, the steps were found a little like the
treadmill. Resuming our jinrickshas, we followed the beach for
4 miles, and, passing through a long fishing village, came
to Kamakura, a beautiful village noted for its temple, the
Temple of Hachiman, the God of War. Here the trees are
wonderfully beautiful. Walking a short distance, we came
to the grounds of the " Diabutsu," considered the finest work
of art in Japan. It is about 50 feet high, and was in a temple
which was washed away about 200 years ago. The great
figure is much better seen, and has not suffered by expo
sure. It is marvellous how such a bronze could have been
made without machinery. The following dimensions will
show its colossal size : height, 49 ft. 7 in. ; circumference,
97 ft. 2in. ; length of face, 8 ft. 5 in. ; width from ear
to ear, 17 ft. 9 in. ; length of eye, 3 ft. 11 in, ; length of
ear, 6 ft. 6 in. ; length of nose, 3 ft. 9 in. ; width of mouth,
3 ft. 2 in. The eyes are of pure gold, and the boss on the

208

Japan.

forehead weighs 30 lbs. of pure silver ; and there are 800
curls on the forehead. From behind there is an entrance
leading to a shrine, and also a staircase into the head.
Another 4 miles' ride brought us to the railway, and
"~? (

" Diabutsu," or God.
a short journey completed our day's work to Tokio, a busy
place, with a large station. Jinrickshas were again in requi
sition. This time the men all had lamps marked " Imperial
Hotel," our quarters for three or four days, very large, and
quite European.

Japan. 209
April 23rd. — A most charming morning for a start to see
the capital of Japan, and the residence of the Mikado, who
now prefers to be styled the Emperor of Japan. Tokio,
situated on the bay of Tokio, occupies, it is estimated,
about 100 square miles, that is, 10 miles each way, and has
a population of about one and a half million. A tidal
river runs through the middle of it, and there are many
small canals or rivers, also several large moats, and near
the Uyeno Park a lake.
The city is quite in a transition state from Japanese to
European ideas. Some twenty years ago itwas called Yeddo,
and was then thoroughly Japanese. Now the streets are
being widened, and every time there is a fire the Govern
ment steps in, and arranges for drainage and wide streets.
Just now there is a good opportunity, for a fire burnt down
nearly 5,000 houses a fortnight ago, and only left standing
about half a dozen fire-proof depots. In the main street,
about two miles long, and as wide as Regent Street, there is
a double tramway, which runs a considerable distance. All
the city is lighted by electric light, and telegraph and
telephone poles seem very plentiful. There are many large
piles of buildings in the European style, and new Govern
ment offices are being built a la Westminster.
The Emperor is forty years old, stout and short. He has
a large head, and a fat face with a thin moustache. He
was dressed in modern European style, with a military
frock coat with decorations, and a top hat.
Japanese ladies are not suited to European costumes,
nor will they be until brought up in the same way as
Europeans, that is, to sit on chairs from their childhood.
Their way of sitting upon the floor with legs and feet
underneath makes round backs, and throws the body for
ward, even when walking or dancing. 14

210 Japan.
As is our custom, we generally seek for high ground to
obtain a view when desiring to see a city, so visited Atago
Yama, a plateau at the top of ioo steep and deep steps
for little people. At the summit we found, of course,
a temple and a tea-house, surrounded by beautiful cherry
trees in the finest and fullest bloom we had ever seen. We
obtained a fine view of the city with its grey-roofed houses,
and the winding river emptying itself into the extensive
bay. On the other side was a flat plain extending for miles.
Our " ricks " next took us to see the Emperor's Palace,
which is on the site of an old castle surrounded by double
moats. In the centre is the one-storied Jap Palace enclosed
by high walls, and approached by a bridge over another
moat. Outside this is a fine stone building in the modern
European style, in which the Emperor mostly now resides,
for his sympathies are European.
We went to the " Shiba,'' a park with fine trees, and con
taining the shrines of the Shoguns, an office now defunct.
The Mikado was the big gun who enjoyed life and pleasure,
a descendant of the Sun, and the " Shogun " the working
director of all things under the sun. In this park are the
shrines of twelve Shoguns. Some of them are most magnifi
cent, being made of gold and silver, each, like the temples,
having seven separate buildings with courtyards, the inner
one containing the remains buried in a sitting posture 15 feet
below the surface. This mortuary temple consists of three
parts —an outer oratory, a connecting gallery, and an inner
sanctum. Each of these is a blaze of gold colours and elabor
ate arabesque, which quite dazzlethe eyes with their brilliancy.
In all these courts are numbers of magnificent bronze or
stone lamps, about 10 feet high, the gifts of nobles. In one
we counted over 300 ; the others did not appear to contain
less. Some of the gates are remarkable, one for its pillars

Japan.

21 I

with dragons twisted round them, originally gilt over a
coating of red oxide, now more oxide than gilt.
The Holy Trees in the courts are perfect marvels, and
at this season of full bloom form a picture of loveliness
such as must remain on the memory for years. The
cherry and maple (Japanese) in contrast are most striking.
There is a tree, said to be the only one in Japan,
the " sharaso," where, when the branches touch one another,
they grow together, and it cannot be seen where the union
has taken place. Another tree is most striking. A camellia
and a cedar tree have been united. On some of the branches

Entrance to the Shrine of a Shogun.
are camellia flowers with cedar leaves. Doubtless the in
spiration of the great men's tombs has had an effect.
The Uyeno Park is a sort of Regent's Park, and there
was a jite in honour of the cherry. It contains fine
trees, a lake, and zoological gardens. Of course we went
to see our friends the monkeys, and also saw a horse
caged up. Since our sojourn in Japan we have not seen
a sheep in the country, excepting, like canaries and monkeys,
only two in a cage. At the hotels mutton is quoted, but
it comes, like eggs, from China, 800 miles away. The
elephants, as usual, were a great attraction.

2 1 2 Japan.
We called upon a Japanese lady who lives in a beautiful
house, so clean that it looked quite new. She has three
daughters and a son. Of course shoes never enter this
place, and the only furniture was a flower-stand in the
corner of the room. Cushions, covered with silk and some
cripe, were offered to us, but we barbarians cannot stow
our legs, and do not find the posture comfortable, whereas
these nice little Japs squat, and look elegant. The eldest
daughter played on the koto, a flat-stringed instrument
lying on the floor, the music resembling the harp. She
also sang and spoke English — an accomplished Jap. The
boy also spoke English, so we got on well.
The last object we visited before returning was the
Museum of Antiquities, works of art, and some manu
factures. The antiquities were not so interesting to us,
as we do not quite understand the ancient history of
Japan, for in our school days this country was little
known. April 24th.- — We found a nice service at Trinity Church,
a pretty little place connected with the British Legation.
In the afternoon, our guide Ito took us to see the Cherry
jete. A good ride through the city brought us to the river
Sumida, where it is as wide as the Thames at London
Bridge. It was all alive with passenger steamers, junks,
and all kinds of craft, giving a busy and prosperous
appearance. Along the banks of the river is a promenade about 2
miles in length, with an avenue of cherry trees. Here and
there are tea-houses for refreshment. It is called Muko-
Jima. When the trees are in full bloom a jete is held.
Thousands of people assemble there to make merry. All
the Japs were in their best, and seemed very happy.
There were boat races — in fact, a regatta a la Anglais —

Japan.

213

which attracted much attention. A Mr. Homer, President
of the Eastern Railway, has some beautiful gardens, which
were available for some of the people, who are immense
admirers of flowers and trees. Wc became much interested
in the amusements of the Japs, which seemed simple and
innocent. Flying kites of the most elaborate descriptions
is much indulged in, some representing young girls running,
their feet moving with the action of the wind, dragons
with long tails, monster fish, etc. Another amusement is

Japanese Children.
wearing masks and playing with the baby, which seems
to have an existence in most families. Tea-houses, with
the attraction of Jap tea in small egg-shaped cups, and
sweet-cakes, meet with many customers there.
April 2^th, Monday. — We started early, and had a long
ride to see many places in this extensive city, one in
the midst of some venerable trees in Takanawa, called
Sengakugi, or the Spring Hill Temple, renowned for its
cemetery, which contains the graves of the 47 Ronins,
famous in Japanese history. Having read some particulars
of these people, the tale can be told in a few words.

214 Japan.
Ronin means literally wave-man, one who is tossed about
from pillar to post. It is said a rich man died, leaving
his money in the charge of a friend, for the benefit of his
son. Before the son became old enough the friend bolted —
a not uncommon thing in history. When the son grew to
man's estate he vowed to find the " friend " and kill him.
Others joined in the search to the number of about 100,
and made a compact to travel all over Japan until the
rogue was found. On several occasions he was discovered,
but always killed his assailants. Years rolled past, until
there only remained 46 and their master, when the rogue
was found to be living near Yeddo. The whole band was
summoned to meet in Yeddo, and it was then decided to
surround the house at night and kill the monster. This
was carried out. Knowing the law would demand their
lives, they decided to die by " Hara Kiri " (disembowelling),
considered in Japan an honourable death, and still
practised. " On the left-hand side of the main court of the temple
is a chapel, in which, surmounted by a gilt figure of
Kwangin, the Goddess of Mercy, are enshrined the images
of the 46 men and their leader or beloved master. The
statues are carved in wood, the faces coloured, and the
dresses richly lacquered. Some represent venerable men,
one said to be 77, with a thin grey beard, others mere boys.
Close to the chapel, at the side of a path, is a little well of
clear water, fenced in and around with a small fernery,
over which is an inscription, setting forth that this is the
well in which the head of the beloved master was washed.
Higher up, shaded by trees, is a neat enclosure, wherein are
ranged 48 little tombstones, decked with evergreens and
a tribute of water, with incense for the comfort of the
departed. Under the 47 lies buried the master. Round

Japan. 215
this are railings covered with pieces of paper and cards
of admiring friends who visit the heroes."
In the afternoon, by arrangement, we spent 3 hours in
the prison, where 1,300 prisoners are kept. The regulations
and cleanliness would be a credit to any nation. The
details of this are given further on.
April 26th, Tuesday. — We left Tokio by an early train
for Nikko, 100 miles' ride through a beautiful country. The
railway winds through hills, following a river, until at this
place we are nearly 2,000 feet above Tokio. Six miles from
here we left the train, and took jinrickshas. The road is
through an avenue of cedar trees, not ordinary ones, but
immense, without branches until near the top, where the
leaves meet.
There are several villages on the road, houses with
thatched roofs, people in old-fashioned costumes, pack-
horses for going to the mountains. Nothing appears
changed from real old Japan as it was one or two hundred
years ago, or possibly thousands.
Nikko is not the name of a place, but a district ; and this
foreign hotel, as it is called, has been built for the con
venience of visitors, and maybe the profit of the company
running it. From this window there is a most lovely
mountain view, with rushing rivers.
It is one or two coats colder than Tokio, but very
refreshing, especially being able to drink with impunity
the pure mountain water.
April 27th, Wednesday.— A consultation was held as
to the weather before starting on an excursion to Lake
Chuzenji. We prophesied stormy, and quoted an old man
in Westmoreland, who said it would "after a bit rain
all day, with showers betwixt." However, as the guide and
the hotel keeper said it could not rain with such a wind

2 1 6 Japan.
and sky, we prepared to start, each being provided with
four strong little men, who had palanquins to carry our
lazy bones shoulder high when required, all the way if
insisted upon.
After many twists and turns we reached the summit,
4350 feet ; then passing through a wood of fine pines and
luxuriant undergrowth leading to a plateau commanding
a fine view, following a level road for about a mile, we
came to the village of Chuzenji, on the banks of a fine
lake four miles long. This is higher than the top of any
mountain in England or Wales ; yet the cherry and peach
are in bloom there in great perfection. The inhabitants,
as in all mountainous countries, are pleasant people. The
costume worn by both sexes is the same ; and, as the
females wear their hair short, it requires some discrimination
to know one from the other. The costume consists of
trousers made of some blue material, fitting tight to the
legs, and forming also the stockings ; the upper garment
is of the same material, something like a stable boy's
jacket. The female wearing the trousers is here a fact.
We found a most comfortable tea-house, and had some
fresh trout for lunch — fresh indeed, because the fish were
swimming in a tank outside when we arrived. The
windows of the house overhung the lake, from whence
we had a fine view of a snowstorm, the first snow seen
since leaving England. Our weather prophets were right.
It did not rain, it poured down ; and although we had
coats and wraps everything was soaked. It is a wet
country, and stoves for drying are provided ; but our
clothes, of which the supply is limited, have suffered
much. April 28th, Thursday. — We have spent all the day
inspecting the two shrines and temples of the first and

Japan.

21J

third Shoguns, much the finest and most splendid in
Japan. Nature has contributed immensely to their
grandeur, being situated on the sides of hills clothed
with huge trees, called here Cryptomeria, or Japanese
cedars. The trunks of some are very thick, from 18 to 20
feet in circumference, and a great height, without any
branches. There is an avenue of these trees 10 or 12
miles long on the road from Tokio to Nikko, which in

Sacred Bridge, Nikko.
former times used to be frequented by thousands visiting
these Temples. Now the railway made for passengers has
four trains a day, always crowded, many more people come,
as it does not require so much time or money.
At the end of the village is the Mihashi, a red lacquered
bridge spanning the river, 40 feet wide, connecting the
avenue. It is one span, and stands upon solid stone piers
on each side. It was built in 1638, and only used by
Shoguns ; now it is opened twice a year for pilgrims. The
colour is splendid, and contrasts well with the grey rocks

2 1 8 Japan.
and green trees. The lacquer stands so well that it has
only been done up once since new.
April 2gth, Friday. — This Norway of Japan is most
charming ; for with the bracing air, mountains, rivers,
and magnificent trees, such as are only to be seen here,
there are many other attractions — the combination of all
that is beautiful and fresh in nature, with not only traces
of real works of antiquity, but classical productions which
have existed for century after century, and are as perfect
to-day as they were when created by men who died
hundreds of years ago.
Religion dictated these works; and it appears Japan is
credited with taking some of its religion from China in
the early ages. Buddhism is one which must have exerted
great influence in the past two or three centuries, for all
over Japan there are undeniable evidences of the devotion
of the people to their faith in building such remarkable
edifices, where neither labour nor treasure has been spared
in producing veritable temples wherein to worship their
gods. These sanctuaries are not only to be found at
Nikko, and in large cities, but every village has its temple
representing one or more of the dozen sects into which
Buddhism is now divided.
" The approach to a temple is generally through a Torii,
which is an opening with a post on each side, with two
cross pieces at the top, the higher one being curved
upwards at the ends. This may be considered the gateway,
but it has no gate, yet forms the entrance to a grove of
trees planted on each side of the pathway leading up to
the temple. These groves are frequently half a mile long,
comprising cedars and other trees, many of great age.
Some of the temples are enclosed in squares with rooms
and corridors on three sides, walled in, with a gateway

Japan.

219

in the centre of the front. On each side of the entrance,
in recesses, between columns, a carved figure called a Nio
is placed. The figures are of colossal size, carved in wood,
and made as muscular and repellent-looking as possible.
It might be supposed these figures were intended to be
idols, or perhaps devils." The real idea is to represent guards
of the temple, looking ferocious to keep away intruders
from entering the holy place. They seem to us something

Torii or Entrance to a Temple.
like the objects we place in our gardens to keep the birds
away. Soon, however, the birds are seen sitting upon the
heads chirping, " We won't go home till morning." Still
old customs and superstitions prevail. The people think
these Nio have power and influence ; for if they want some
special thing it is written on tough rice paper, chewed up in
their mouth, and thrown at one of the Nio. Should it stick
their wish will be granted ; if not, doubts come upon them.

220 Jap,

<an.

The plan of most of the temples is similar, the length
being divided into three spaces, a centre bay and two side
ones. In the rear of the centre bay is the principal shrine,
where the figure of a Buddha is always present, but varies
much in size and decorations, as well as surroundings ;
but should it be a Shinto temple Buddha is absent, being
replaced by various emblems. There are, for the most
part, a number of steps leading up to a raised floor made
of wood. Round upright columns or posts set in granite
bases support the framework and roofs, which are prominent
objects, projecting 8 to 12 feet, and are thatched or
shingled. The sides are enclosed with screen work, and
frequently decorated without and within, black lacquered,
gold lacquered, or painted in colours. Red lacquer is
used with white lacquer on the columns, all as smooth
as glass. Dull red lacquer on the heavy outside timbers
gives a good effect, when surrounded with dark green
cryptomeras. In England we might with profit adopt
some of these decorations.
Many of the Shinto Temples have covered -in platforms
for the performances of the sacred Kagusa dance. In
the centre of these platforms a gorgeously dressed young
female priest is squatting on her heels, not the high heels
used in England. If some money is put on the mat she
stands up, and goes through what is supposed to be a
religious dance in honour of the gods in general, and then
bows down until the forehead touches the ground.
Shintoism is the State religion, without, in common with
the Church of England in England, State aid ; but the
well-to-do classes are Buddhists. The Shintos, we are told,
reverence their forefathers, and do not believe in rewards
or punishments hereafter ; in fact, they do not believe in
any hereafter. Religion with forms suits the Japs, for they

Japan. 221
like ceremonies. To see a Jap bow his head, especially
in a temple, puts to shame even a Frenchman ; but the
bowing of the head in the temple is the prayer, with the
addition of placing a copper on the mat. Various temples
have different endowments. Some are supposed to have
the power of giving children, others where young married
women flock to learn whether their married life will be
lasting and happy (this is foretold by being able to tie a
lasting knot upon strips of bamboo, which are hung up
for the purpose), and others where persons about to travel
hang up a shoe with an account of the journey tied to it.
Most of the day has again been spent in the temples and
grounds, and many more might be, as the beauties both
of landscape and buildings cannot be appreciated all at
once. Great ingenuity has been displayed in laying out the
grounds on the sides of such steep hills, and the labour
must have been immense in cutting out a plateau, as well as
building with granite splendid flights of steps about 20 feet
wide, all having artistic balustrades of solid granite, the whole
made to fit with joints like a Chinese puzzle. With age
and damp the stonework has become green, being covered
with Palm algae, giving a beautiful colour when the sun
shines. At the same time nothing has suffered deteriora
tion. Each temple is built on a higher level until the
seventh is reached, containing the tomb. These are
shrouded with huge cedar trees or cryptomerias, each one
presented in former times by nobles, who must have been
like flies in summer, for there are thousands of trees.
The mausoleum of Tegasu, the first Shogun, is much the
finest. Ascending a flight of broad steps with trees on
both sides, we come to a granite Torii about 30 feet high,
with columns nearly 4 feet in diameter. Passing through,

222

Jap,

an.

on the left is a five-storied pagoda, a most striking object,
painted in lively but harmonious colours. It is said to be
over ioo feet high. One cannot dispute it ; for with so many
steps there was not much inclination to venture a climb,
so we were content to admire the lifelike painted wood,
carvings of the twelve signs of the zodiac round the lower
storey. Paying our money, and ascending a flight of steps
we passed through the gate of the two kings. The carvings

v? * BB

*"

Part of a Temple.

adorning the gateway are varied but clever. Here pipes
had to be put out, and hats removed ; shoes also were not
admitted. In a courtyard raised high above the approach
are three handsome buildings arranged in a zig-zag, and
used as storehouses for the various paraphernalia. On the
frieze of one, under the gate, are two curious elephants
carved in wood, with their joints the wrong way. Near this
is a conifer tree, said to have been carried by Tegasu in a
pot wherever he went. It has grown well in 250 years,

Japan. 223
being now 100 feet high. Close to this tree is a red
building containing the stable of the sacred pony, supposed
to be white ; but it is now piebald, and would sell at a
country fair for thirty shillings. A female priest is in
attendance, and sells 10 boiled beans for a cent, for the
pious-minded to feed the sacred animal. We looked for its
teeth without success. On another house are some cleverly
executed groups of monkeys, quite lifelike. In the same
courtyard is a holy water tank made out of a solid piece
of granite, which must have weighed 1,000 tons. There
the pilgrims wash their hands before entering the inner
temple, and strips of paper are provided as a drier.
The roof is supported by twelve square pillars of granite,
forming, on the whole, a striking object. Beyond this is a
beautifully decorated building, called the Kigoro. This is
the storehouse of a collection of the Buddhist scriptures,
which are placed in a magnificent bookcase, made to turn
on pivots when requisite. The panels of this bookcase are
covered with red lacquer, and the pillars with gold. The
walls of the building are beautifully decorated in gold,
with many figures artistically painted on them, imparting
a grand and impressive air to the whole appearance.
After leaving this part we ascended another flight of
steps, and reached the next court, one side of which is
bounded by a granite balustrade. This is of great beauty,
and has many carvings representing birds and animals.
Just inside the court are placed two exquisitely sculptured
stone lions, which are most lifelike. Their attitude is that.
of being poised for their spring upon the unwary intruder
In this court are a large bronze bell, a candelabrum of
fine workmanship, a drum tower, and about one hundred
bronze lanterns, contributed by nobles.
On ascending more steps we reached a platform, which

224 Japan.
supports the gate called " Yomei-mow." This famous and
most beautiful gate is supported by columns which are
lacquered white, and have the appearance of white marble.
They are carved with a very fine geometrical pattern, so
extremely well executed as to be almost perfection itself.
There are four side niches in the gate, two inner and two
outer ones, which are carved with a floral design, and
contain four large figures, armed with bows and quivers
full of arrows. The summits of the columns are crowned
with unicorns' heads. Where the crossbeams intersect are
devices of white dragons' heads, and a splendid dragon
with golden claws is placed in the centre of each of the
sides and ends. Above the crossbeams there is a pro
jecting balcony, which runs entirely round the structure.
Figures of children playing, as well as various other
subjects, form the railing, useful both for the ornamentation
of this balcony, and the safety of people who ever go
thereon. The roof is supported by gilt dragons' heads,
whose throats, open one would think to their widest stretch,
are coloured red. A demon presides over the whole, and
looks complacently down on us from the apex. A cloister
of considerable length extends from each side of the gate,
its outside walls being profusely decorated with coloured
carvings of trees, birds, and flowers.
Yet again more steps, and we entered a quadrangle,
each side of which is about 20 yards long. These sides
are made of trellis work and gilded, and have beautiful
borders, decorated in colours with a geometrical pattern.
Above and beneath are carvings of groups of birds, about
8 inches high and 6 feet long, with a carved background
of grass gilded over. The doors of the oratory are boun
tifully decorated with designs of flowers in gilt relief, the
peony seeming to be a favourite flower for this purpose.

Japan. 225
There are several compartments over the door and windows
in the front, which are filled with carved birds, coloured to
represent nature.
The interior we found to be a large room about 50 feet
long, having an ante-chamber at either end, and the floor
covered with matting. The ante-chamber on the right-
hand side was for the use of the Shogun — the live, not
the dead one — and has oak panels, with Phcenixes engraved
on them, and pictures of unicorns, which are extremely well
thrown up by their gold ground. The chamber on the left
has eagles on the panels, and a carved ceiling, on which
a figure and many flowers are painted.
From the centre apartment, too gorgeous to describe,
through a door, sliding of course, as all Jap doors do, are
two steps leading down to the stone chamber, and on the
other side are two inner chambers containing offerings not
shown to barbarians.
Passing to the east side of the court is a door, and then
about 200 steps lead to the tomb, over which is cut out a
sleeping cat. Probably many might have wished the cat
to sleep earlier. The tomb is of fine bronze, and is sup
posed to contain a large admixture of gold. This meagre
description of the grandest temple is the last, and we hope
the remembrance of such a picture of grandeur will never
fade from our memories, enlivened as it was by the
hundreds of devout Japs, who continually passed in their
varied costumes and pronounced colours.*
April 30th, Saturday. — Got up soon after 5 o'clock,
packed, and had breakfast — of course trout, as well as other
good things — and then started in jinrickshas for the station,
more than 2 miles away, going along the celebrated avenue
* A full description of these temples will be found in Murray's " Handbook."
15

226 Japan.
of cedars, which, by the way, goes in a northerly direction
for 12 miles, making in all over 20 miles of avenue.
We met five or six hundred Japs on the road, who
had come by the train to visit the temples. It was raining
rather fast, so numbers with a saving knowledge had taken .
off or screwed up their lower garments, and presented the
appearance of wading on the sands ; but in many cases the
inspector would have interfered on grounds of decency.
Our railway journey was rather long, lasting until 2.30,
when we arrived at Yokohama. By measuring the map
we estimate there are over 2,000 miles of railways in the
island. Parts are owned by the Government, and other
parts by private companies. We have travelled over 700 or
800 miles, and never rode upon better made lines or better
worked. All the officials are Japs, and every attention is
paid to the comfort of the passengers. In each first class
carriage there is a stand with cups, teapot, and kettle, and
a liberal supply of green tea " free gratis for nothing " ; so
that you can have tea-fights all the way, because a fresh
supply is provided at each station.
For the other classes men promenade the platform,
selling for 2 cents (about \\di) a teapot full of hot tea
and a cup, the teapot and cup being included in the
purchase. Some of these will find their way to England,
purchases having been made for the sake of the teapot
and cup.
In the middle of the day lunch is sold, or maybe dinner,
for 10 cents (3^.), in a nice clean wooden box, something
like a fig box, containing hot rice, fish, rice cake, cabbage,
and a pair of chopsticks — we forgot the pickle and bamboo
— all included.
The " Grand Hotel," Yokohama, is a splendid establish
ment on the Bund facing the Bay, said to be 24 miles

Japan. 227
across. It looks like 4, as the land is so plainly visible.
Number 16 was assigned to us, a fine room with a grand sea
view. Opposite our window are numbers of large steamers
from all parts of the world and some war vessels, giving
any amount of life to the scene.
May lst, Sunday. — A charming morning for the first
of the merry month of May.
May 2nd, Monday. — Heavy rain all day put on a
damper, but did not keep us in the house, for we visited
photographic establishments and other money-extracting
shops. In the evening, in answer to an invitation, we
took jinrickshas in the pouring rain, and went some
distance to a large club-house. Our host, Mr. N  ,
received us most cordially in our stockings. We then
proceeded to a large- room, with its only furniture a vase
of splendid flowers, and squatted upon a silk cushion.
It is wonderful how humanity can get used to anything,
for we managed better.
The party was a select one, of about a dozen ladies and
gentlemen, three of whom were Japs. After a few minutes
a rice-paper slide was opened to admit a procession of
Musmees, who appeared each with a tray, dressed in
costumes most bewitching in colour and elegance. The
rear was brought up by a very important-looking Musmee
and two serving girls carrying a bronze charcoal-burner,
which was placed on the floor under an electric light,
one of the many illuminating the room. The important
Musmee was nothing less than a professional powder
green tea maker, who squatted beside the charcoal fire,
which has a name, Kiro. An aesthetic bronze kettle was
placed on the charcoal, when the serving girls gave
a few waves with their fans to brighten up the fire ; at
the same time the dozen Musmees squatted in a circle

228

Japan.

round the object of their waiting, looking with placid
admiration on their pretty faces. Each Musmee had
on her tray two elegant lacquer bowls, one turned
over the other, and some Japanese cakes on a plate.
When the kettle boiled one of these lacquer bowls had
some powder green tea placed in it by the professor,
then a whisk of elegant construction was used with great
dexterity, until the bowls were filled with green froth,
when the other bowl was used as a cover, and the Musmee,

A Japanese Fan Dancer.
with measured steps, went to the first lady, knelt down
and placed the tray before her. This was continued until
all the guests were served, the Musmee still kneeling
before each guest.
After that part of the repast was finished the professor
and girls retired, then marched in the musicians, three
females and a male, a modest-looking man in full evening
dress, with bare arms and legs — we could not say short
sleeves, for he had not any. The same applied to his pants.

Japan. 229
His occupation was playing the fife and drum at the same
time for three most elegant dancing girls, who went
through a programme of fan dances, comic dances, and
various gyrations not understandable to our uneducated
minds, nevertheless poetical and pretty. Later on this
mild-looking man cast aside his fife and drum, and became
a dancer, first on his feet, then on his head, sometimes on
his elbows and other parts of his body — all so quickly that
the guests got into a state of excitement.
By way of resting this agile man was offered along
with the guests wine, beer, fruit, and sweets, but only
accepted a drink. After having passed round five needles
stuck in a stick for inspection, he swallowed each needle
separately, washing it down with the wine, and finished
by eating a cake. The next performance was to swallow
about a yard of thread, and another drink to wash it
down. The thread was then slowly and carefully drawn up
again, when all five needles were found threaded upon it.
This man is the cleverest juggler in Japan, and kept
us not only amused, but weak with laughing, until nearly
12 o'clock. Wishing our host good-night, we found our
boots and jinrickshas waiting, so hurried home after
spending a novel evening. 1
We must not forget to add that on leaving our Musmee
presented to each of us, packed in a neat box, all the cakes
we had not eaten, as well as our chopsticks.
May 3rd, Tuesday. — Another wet day, which compelled
us to find indoor amusements, so we visited a manufactory
of Shippo or cloisonne ware. Perhaps using the word
manufactory is calculated to mislead by suggesting large
brick buildings and tall chimneys. The native manu
factories usually consist of a one-storied wood building,
about 10 feet wide, with rice-paper slides, mostly open to

230 Japan.
a pretty little garden with trees, flowers, and a small lake ;
so that the artistic Jap is surrounded by lovely natural
objects during his occupation by daylight.
This industry is a process of decoration in copper by
enamelling with the addition of wires. The first stage
is the work of the coppersmith, who squats beside his
anvil, consisting of a rough log of wood with a bent
bar of iron fixed in, having a few inches of polished
surface at the end, upon which he shapes his work.
Taking a piece of sheet copper, and hammering it into
the required form, is not a long process with this genius.
In a vase he deftly draws the edges together, and makes
a dovetail point, which, when hammered, can scarcely be
detected, and never gives way. The next process is per
formed in a primitive furnace just outside, by placing
the vase in the charcoal fire, which is blown to a red
heat by using a large palm leaf fan until the joint is
fused into a solid mass ; then it is taken out, and allowed
to cool sufficiently to be hammered bright again, when
the next worker receives it.
The designer, or real artist, who, with a conception for
beautiful forms, takes the vase, with great exactitude
of outline draws the delicate and intricate grounding
of birds, beasts, flowers, or emblems of Japanese lore,
suiting them to the design of the plaque or vase with
a freedom and rapidity quite astonishing, indicating a
trained and well-cultured eye. The vase, bearing thou
sands of lines, is passed on to the next artist, whose
business is to cover the whole of these lines with brass
and silver wire. He commences by painting over the
vase with some transparent cement ; then cuts and bends
the wire into curves and serpentine coils to suit the
design, and with forceps places each piece in its required

Japan. 231
position. After finishing the wire process, requiring even
in small pieces days and days to complete, it is then fused
in a charcoal burner, welding the wires to the copper body.
Next comes the manufacture and mixing of the enamel
by the master, who has some secret knowledge of colour
ing, probably handed down in his family from generation
to generation, constituting the value of cloisonne. One
piece may be worth 5 dollars, and another of equal size
500 dollars ; so that it requires quite an education to
know the relative value.
A thin coating of these enamels is painted with a brush
in their required places, and then the piece is again fused ;
and coat after coat is applied, and each time fused, some
times as many as twelve times.
At Kyoto there is a maker who applies the enamel
with a chopstick ; and his work usually brings the highest
prices, and is known as " chopstick cloisonne." We saw
this at Kyoto, and purchased a specimen.
The last process is one of great anxiety — polishing with
pieces of stone. Hour after hour the polisher sits rubbing
as though his life depended upon the result ; for any little
accident spoils the whole, which is a great disappointment,
when from 50 to 200 days may have been spent by 6
men, who are required to accomplish the completion of
these gems.
There are a few men who can do the whole process, and
take from one to two years to produce a single work. They
are much sought after, and realise high prices. We were
able to secure specimens of the six processes, which are
most interesting.
Wood and ivory carving is a large industry all over
Japan, and is learnt by small children, who in this way
acquire the culture of the eye and training of the finger,

232 Japan.
which in after years develops into some of the artistic
employments so celebrated in Japan.
We were introduced to Hannanuma, who in his line as
an anatomical wood carver is the most skilful in Japan,
possibly in the world. He can reproduce any living man
in wood, giving an exact likeness and expression. The
wood is covered with a kind of lacquer, representing the
skin, veins, and colour, and by some process the hair is
fixed on. We saw several times a reproduction of himself,
which stands just within the door of Messrs. Deakin & Co.
This is so lifelike that people frequently speak to it, and
complaints are not infrequent, when the glass door is fast,
that the figure won't open it.
Two wonderful works of this artist, called " The
Wrestlers," have been presented to the museum in Sheffield
by Mr. Deakin, and are well worthy of a visit.
We have to thank Messrs. Deakin & Co. for very kindly
giving us the opportunity of visiting some of the art work
shops in Yokohama, and for their valuable explanations
of the various processes adopted when carrying out the
productions of these arts.
Ivory carving is a fine art, only practised by a few, on
account of the scarcity of ivory, and the sum of money
required to purchase tusks. Yet those who follow the art
are perfect masters ; for some of the specimens are produc
tions of the highest order, commanding the admiration of
all who can appreciate form. Some of the finest are far
from being the largest, and judges are content with a little
and good, when pure in outline and unmechanical.
Satsuma Ware.
When in Kyoto, we had the opportunity of seeing this
wonderful ware being made. The clay is brought from

Japan.

¦oo

Satsuma, and sometimes from Korea, or Corea. Its origin,
and for many years all the productions, were the property
of the Royal Household.
The clay is carefully worked by plastic fingers into the
elegant and classical designs so marked in this ware ; then
it is partially baked, and afterwards receives the decora
tion familiar to admirers of Satsuma. Gold seems to form
a considerable portion of the embellishment, combined
with rich colours. There seem to be two ojoinions as to
whether the old or new is the most artistic. Certainly the
new has much finer and more elaborate work.
The following is a recognised history of this much-
sought-after pottery : —
" Some 290 odd years ago the then reigning prince of
Satsuma made an invasion upon Corea, and conquered
it. He discovered among the Coreans some remarkable
potters manufacturing from their common clay, and, re
membering a fine bank of clay in the district of Satsuma,
he induced a small colony of these people to go back with
him and settle in Japan. The works thus began on this
bank of clay. A rich bank it has proved, being the only
one of its peculiar kind known."
This ware is distinguished by its cream-coloured finely
crackled glaze, and paste as dense as ivory. At Kyoto
we saw the decoration being worked upon the pieces, and
in many instances so minute that magnifying glasses were
used ; and we were told that some pieces occupied a man
a year or more to complete.
May 4th, Wednesday.— A splendid morning ; warm and
pleasant after the damp. We took a carriage with horses,
quite a new sensation after so many miles — estimated at
260 — in jinrickshas. Messrs. Cobb & Co., as the name
suggests, are English people, who keep livery stables. We •

234 Japan.
had a driver and a runner. The business of the latter is
to keep the roads clear, and give notice of our coming by
tearing his throat with loud shouts and yells, and when
going downhill sitting on the end of the pole to prevent
the horses getting underneath.
We visited some mimic gardens, and saw some splendid
flowers and wonderful trees, and came to the conclusion
that Japs understood, or it might be said reduce, gardening
to a fine art.
May $th, Thursday. — Another fine day, and warm. We
spent the morning visiting shops, and found these most
attractive, but of course not like European establishments,
with plate-glass windows, glass — -with the exception of half
a dozen English stores — being, for the most part, con
spicuous by its absence.
After tiffin we had the carriage and pair and men, and
started for a drive along the coast towards Tokio. For
miles it seemed one continuous street of villages, with here
and there a break of rice fields and vegetable gardens.
The people, for the most part, live by fishing ; and the
roads are mended with cockle-shells, which, by the way,
are very fine. We arrived at a large tea-house with a
garden, so alighted and retired to a room fitted up for
foreigners with chairs and tables, and overlooking the sea.
The hostess was the largest Jap we had seen, being about
5 feet 10 inches, and very handsome. She was most
anxious to provide for our wants, or perhaps it might be
better to say to tempt us to eat.
Starting again, after paying the bill for four, 20 cents
(about yd.), we had for some distance two jinrickshas in
front of us, the first containing a Jap with a drum, which
he beat vigorously, and the second a dressed-up figure,
performing all kinds of facial grimaces. This brought

Japan. 235
out the inhabitants, who doubtless gave us credit for being
part of the performance, the result being great excitement,
and the companionship of dozens of runners.
On returning to the hotel we had an hour before dinner,
so went to a bamboo basket and stick manufactory, and
saw two or three men carving bamboo canes for walking-
sticks and ornaments, and of course purchased some.
Bamboo is, I think, more used in Japan than China, if that
is possible, because it seems to enter into most things, both
useful and ornamental, and as an article of food takes no
mean place. Birdcages for prisoners' cages, fencing round
houses, divisions inside houses, bridges, breakwaters, combs,
brushes, conveyances, boats, musical instruments, chairs,
tables, fishing-rods, walking-sticks, cooking utensils, plant-
pots, masts for junks, and countless other articles are also
made from this useful wood.
May 6th, Friday. — A pouring wet day for our last in
Japan. We chartered jinrickshas, and again visited shops
and manufactories, not forgetting arrangements for having
all our purchases packed and shipped.
Photography has been taken up by the Japs with great
success, and there are now half a dozen establishments,
employing a great many people taking portraits, etc. ; but
the chief business is in views of a country abounding in
beautiful scenery and artistic corners. These views are,
for the most part, coloured by a process — if known — but
little, practised in other countries. Some are so cleverly
coloured as to make quite a good representation of water-
colour painting.
Silk is a large production. Everywhere in the country
are seen mulberry trees for the feeding of silkworms, the
silk being wound by hand from the cocoons. This we did
not see, for it was too early in the season ; but we saw the

236 Japan.
raw silk spun by hand by children, who are taught to work
early, education and work in this country going on simul
taneously, many boys at fourteen being good scholars,
accomplished mathematicians, and artistic workmen.
Silk, for the most part, is woven by hand-loom for
merchants, who either sell it in pieces or have it em
broidered ; for the embroidery gives a large amount of
employment to men, women, and children, and is, for the
most part, of a high-class description, some ranking the
highest in the world.
In Kyoto much of this work is from the hands of men
who sit at frames for sixteen hours, and even longer, per
day ; and the stitches are so minute that magnifying-
glasses have to be used. Some of these productions are
pictures, and look like paintings, while others have the
appearance of fine enamels. The representations are
trees, blossoms of cherry, wisteria flowers, and animals of
all kinds, either singly or combined as pictures, the designs
emanating from the brains of the worker, for two alike are
seldom seen.
The hands and fingers of these workers are quite
pictures, being small, with long taper fingers, and as supple
as if there were no bones in them. Perhaps their feet may
be the same, but we could not observe them, as they were
always sat upon.
Japanese porcelain and faience is quite a study, requir
ing more time than a short visit affords, as it is universally
admitted that the Japanese are the most accomplished and
artistic potters in the world, now excelling their original
masters, the Chinese. Any one having a knowledge of the
various ceramics could find occupation for months in Japan,
in visiting the various potteries, some carried on in a room
in a garden, others on a larger scale. The specimens of some

Japan.

237

of these works are most fascinating, with intricate and
beautiful decorations ; but as they would not fold up like
silk, or paper, and go into one's pockets, they had, although
with many regrets, to be left behind.
Furniture making is quite a new industry, because the
Japs do not use, or own, even a chair in their houses,
preferring to sit, or squat, on the floor. When a Jap
marries there is no consideration
necessary about furnishing the house,
a couple of basins, a pan, a kettle,
and a charcoal brazier being all that
are required. The marriage cere
mony is not much more difficult,
for the man proceeds to the house
of his bride, who is seated

Japanese Kitchen.

upon a cushion. He sits opposite to her on another mat,
and then the father sits between them, and pours out a
glass of " Sake," drinks some, and hands it to the bride, who
also drinks some, and passes it to the bridegroom, who
finishes the beverage, and this concludes the ceremony. If,
however, the lady has changed her mind, she drinks the
whole, and passes the empty glass wrong side up. We learnt
this not from personal experience, but from our guide's.

238 Japan.
Marriage is not so binding as in some other countries,
because if the wife does not love, honour, and obey, and
otherwise behave herself, the husband can proclaim her,
and be free from further responsibility. The wife, as a
mark of devotion, blackens her teeth, and pulls out her
eyebrows and eyelashes, which proceeding disfigures her
very much ; the more so, as the stain used for blackening
her teeth — acetate of iron, made by putting iron into
vinegar — has such an astringent effect upon the lips that
the mouth is quite distorted.
Returning to the furniture, cabinets, many of the most
elaborate description, seem to have taken the attention of
Japanese workmen, who no doubt at first commenced
modestly enough. Yet there is not much to complain of,
for a nice cabinet may be bought for 50 dollars, and baby
cabinets for 30. The higher-priced ones are combinations
of various Japanese arts and industries, lacquer work, with
enrichments of gold forming the body, with gold lacquer,
carved ivory, and mother-of-pearl as ornaments. We
saw one Si 0,000 in price, which was a most wonderful
and artistic work, made for the Chicago Exhibition.
Lacquer is obtained from a tree which grows all over
Japan (on the same principle as turpentine).. Rhas verni-
cijera is the botanical name. After the juice has been
obtained, it is strained and cleaned, and various chemicals
added, to produce the required colours. The wood used
for the foundation is very light, and called " Hinoki," and
is easily worked into any required form. Then the joints
are well smoothed and filled with rice glue, and the whole
coated with common lacquer, then set aside for a few days
to dry. Common work is generally put into an oven and
baked. The next process is to cover the whole with two
evenly spread coats of lacquer, mixed with fine ochre

Japan. 239
powder, so as to get an even smooth-grained surface for
subsequent work. When hard, this is rubbed down with
pumice stone ; in fine work several repetitions of this
process take place, until the article is ready for further
treatment. Two coats more of fine lacquer are carefully
applied, and when not quite hard the designs are impressed
— leaves, flowers, birds, animals, mother-of-pearl, powdered
egg-shell, crystals of gold, silver, copper, and other metals
in a variety of ways, giving wonderful effects. The most
expensive is gold lacquer, which resembles solid gold except
in weight.Over these decorations transparent lacquers are spread
and rubbed down with " deer-horn ashes," reduced to an
impalpable powder, until the surface resembles glass,
through which is reflected the various decorations.
A most effective and striking decoration is one above
the surface, combined with the others — carved ivory, say
the face and head of a man or woman, and the clothes
made of carved mother-of-pearl, with trees and foliage in
enamel. These are frequently quite works of high art,
and set with jewels in various parts of the costume,
and diamond eyes.
Of course with such plastic materials and artistic workers,
there is not any limit to the kinds of production as long
as the trees flourish, if a demand sets in from other countries.
The lacquer in its early stages is most poisonous, and
requires great care ; but this will not deter the Japs if
money can be got out of it.
As soon as you land in Japan, bronze work of every
description strikes your eye, and in the hotels are handsome
pieces for decoration, holding probably a large bunch of
cherry or peach blossom. Going along the streets, you see
in the shops water-filters made of bronze, with a cup of the

240 Japan.
same, looking most inviting on a hot day ; yet prudence
says, Don't be tempted, for in that cup may lie the germs of
typhoid ; so trudge you on, and observe at the next corner
of the street a bronze statue bearing all the hues of old age ;
or maybe you are tempted into one of the hundreds of
temples, where are numbers of bronze lamps IO feet high,
and figures 20 feet. To name the many forms in which
these bronze metal workers have manifested their genius
would require a five-volume book ; but it appears evident
that where Western countries use iron these people have
in the past adopted bronze.
Now all these creations in metal are as various in quality
and style as in value, and many have been made to suit
the place and purpose for which they are used. There
is a style and character in all the bronzes, and two exactly
alike are seldom seen ; for bronzes in Japan are not like
those of many countries — mere castings from a mould which
can be repeated at pleasure. The Japanese modeller first
gets the desired shape made in clay — say a vase — then
he makes his designs for decorations, all of wax, which he
lays upon the clay model with great skill, — dragons with
snaky tails, peacocks, or men doing battle, or whatever
may come from his innermost artistic brain. When carving
this wax the Jap looks in his seventh heaven, and his
face is radiant with the delight of the coming production.
The next process is to fill in this wax with soft clay,
requiring great care to be sure his work will be all repre
sented. When finished, the whole looks a mis-shapen lumpj
giving no evidence of the brain-work within. As soon as
hard enough to handle the lump is held to the fire, which
hardens the clay and melts the wax, leaving it hollow
instead. Into this hollow the molten bronze is poured,
and when cool the outer clay is broken off and the inner

Japan. 241
dug out, leaving a bronze vase ready for finishing. This
process requires great skill, as all the finest work is cut
out with a hammer and chisels, and is finally coloured with
chemicals to produce the tone required. We inquired as
to the nature of the metal used, but found each maker has
his own formula. Copper is the foundation, alloyed with
gold, silver, and arsenic in various proportions. Fine gold
bronze is said to be 65 % copper, 25 % gold, and 10% silver.
May 7th, Saturday. — We rose early, and prepared to
start at 9 o'clock. It was quite a sight to see about fifty
people tearing along the bund on a fine May morning in
jinrickshas, our last ride in these " man-power carriages,"
certainly a wonderful institution, which has existed in Japan
for a long period. It is said to have originated in giving
employment to a large surplus population, and the absence
of beasts of burden or horses, owing to there being little or
no grass in the country, as every available yard is cultivated
by spade labour for growing crops. Rice, rape, etc., are
produced ; in other districts wheat, barley, etc. ; and plan
tations of the wonderful bamboo, which, like Paddy's pig,
seems to pay the rent. Horses would fare badly except in
the mountains, and even there protruding bones seem to
indicate bad living. The officer of the R.S.P.C.A. would
find plenty of cases.
Away from the railways, coolies are employed to carry
letter bags fastened on the ends of a thick bamboo, and
balanced on the shoulders. These men perform wonderful
journeys from town to town, covering, during the week,
distances exceeding 300 miles, and at a speed averaging
over 6 miles an hour. This would puzzle a horse after
the first . week, especially if fed in the same way — two
meals a day of rice, barley, beans, fish, and pickles (sour),
and of course " Jap tea." Japs are truly conservative, and
16

242 Japan.
adopt immediately systems, institutions, and trades when
convinced of their, utility, quickly finding out whether it
will profit them ; but not so with religion and home life.
There are all kinds of missions — English, French, and
American. Americans are placed last, although they do
the most ; but that most is disappointing, except in giving
medical aid to the suffering and sick, who, like the Chinese,
find European physic is on a better plan. It would seem
that both Chinese and Japs are much on the same footing
as converted Jews.
Most trades in Japan where men are employed work
under the direction of a guild, having officers who direct,
dictate, and boycott, much to the men's disadvantage. The
system must be copied from this country. However, the
Japs are struggling to break it down, for they see the folly
of paying agitators.
When at Tokio we applied for permission to visit the
large prison, and the head of the police department kindly
sent us an interpreter and a letter to the governor to show
us everything, and impart all the information we might
seek. Taking jinrickshas for about six miles through the city,
we came near the mouth of the river, and embarked on
a boat, or sampan, and went to an island covered with
buildings some acres in extent. Landing at a lodge,
we entered through ponderous-looking gates, which on
examination proved to be bamboo. We were ushered
into a large room, where the introduction ceremony took
place. The governor and his lieutenant bowed until their
noses nearly touched the ground. Then commenced the
inspection. We walked across an open space to the first
building, which contained the culinary department. Every
thing was perfectly clean and orderly.

Japan. 243
The rations are given in two meals, except where very
hard labour is imposed, and consist of about a pound and
a half of rice and barley boiled until it forms a coherent
mass, and is put into a mould, and, when cold, turned out.
This is accompanied by slices of fish, sometimes cooked,
at others raw, according to the kind of fish, and a cupful of
sour pickle made of seaweed. Meals are at 8 and 5".
The next place was the first series of punishments with
hard labour. Clay is brought in barges from the mainland,
and carried in baskets by prisoners to a yard covered in
with bamboo ; here it is wetted and walked upon until
quite soft and thoroughly mixed — a process in England
performed by pug mills. About 450 men were engaged
in this hard work, for they perspired freely. When in
a proper condition, the clay was carried in baskets to a
building, and made into bricks in the usual way, and burnt.
These bricks are for building a new gaol on the European
silent system.
The second section was a machine manufactory for
making fire-engines, pumps, etc., every department from
casting to finishing. The third was the manufacture of
prison clothing from the wool and cotton in the raw state,
to garments ready for wearing. Everything is dyed bright
terra-cotta. The underclothing for the police is also made
here, as well as that for the Army and the Navy. In
another department European shoes are made for the police
and forces. Almost every trade is carried on in separate
buildings, and there is a fine art department, where cloisonne
and Satsuma are made, and also decorative pottery. Some
of the pieces were very fine, and it suggested an expression
of pity that such artists should be in prison. The reply
was, that most of them had been taught in prison. Another
most interesting department was the manufacture of

244 Japan.
bamboo and walking sticks, also umbrella and parasol
sticks for export.
In an isolated place are a number of boxes about 6 feet
square, and about 4 feet from the ground, with only a
few airholes and a trapdoor for putting in a little food.
Refractories are relegated to a sojourn in one of these for
a few days and nights, which, combined with bean crushing,
tames the most desperate.
Our next visit was to the dormitory department, railed
round with 10 feet bamboos. In the first building was
the barber's shop, where every prisoner is shaved twice
a week with a razor, but not any lather — a dry shave —
not pleasant on a cold morning, or a hot one either ; but
we suppose, like the eels, they get used to it. In the next
building are the baths, used by the prisoners every day
between 4 and 6. Work is finished at 4, shave, bath, and
supper completed before 6, when bed is sought in the next
building, a large one, about 100 yards long and 30 feet
wide. Instead of windows are " Louvre openings," as also
in the roof. This building is filled with bamboo cages
12 feet by 18 feet, and in each cage 18 prisoners sleep on
mats made of bamboo, 6 feet by 2 feet, and have a rug
for covering. Here they remain until 5 o'clock in the
morning. This prison can accommodate 2,000, but the number was
1,300 odd, and the terms of imprisonment from a month
to the end of life. Every department was well and strictly
carried out, and with good discipline, even in the absence of
the separate system. We understood it was self-supporting.
We then visited a separate department, where 1 20 men,
dressed in blue, were busily engaged in making — of all
things in the world — " toothpicks " ! These men are not
criminals, but persons who have not any means of existence,

Japan. 245
and, when found begging, are taken in charge by the
police, and sent to this place. The work is paid for by
results, and each man has credit given for his productions,
say from 1 d. to 3d. per day. When the amount is sufficient,
or if his friends will keep him, he is discharged. The
question was asked : " Who uses the toothpicks ? " there
being sufficient to provide a nation. The reply was that
they were nearly all exported to foreign countries. Every
town has one of these establishments, consequently the
production must be considerable. This useful article is
made from the cuttings of cinnamon trees, and each one
has a piece of bark upon it. This system of providing
work for the indigent is the same as that in Bavaria, and
certainly keeps the country free from beggars.
The police are dressed in European style, with dark-
green tunic and trousers, a belt with a sword, and the
whole crowned with a naval cap. To our ideas these
little men, who seldom exceed 5 feet, seem absurd for police
men ; but as they, for the most part, have to operate upon
men of equal size, and with the advantage of a sword, no
doubt they are useful. It is quite a joke when an attempt
is made upon European sailors ; as the police use cord for
securing their prisoner, failure is generally the result. To
return from our divergence, we arrived at the landing-stage,
and went on board a steam launch, which soon took us
alongside our fine ship, The Oceanic. 4,500 tons, one of the
White Star Line.
The Bay is beautiful with its islands and villages, and
the sun shone on the water like a mirror. The mountains
on both sides, some snow-capped, gave an idea of sailing
up an Italian lake, the mighty Fujiyama asserting itself,
and looking as though it belonged to the heavens rather
than to the earth.

246 Japan.
After sailing through the narrow mouth of the bay, our
course was along the northern coast. We passed the
islands of Oshima, or Seven Isles of Iza. One of these
is volcanic, and always sending forth smoke. It is a good
landmark for sailors. Sometimes there are eruptions ; but
one was not turned on for us.
All day we passed strings of villages nestling at the foot
of mountains, where there must be thousands of population,.
who live in some way or other. Fishing, no doubt, is a
large industry, for a great quantity of salt and dried fish
is exported. As evening came on, we lost sight of land
and Japan, where we had spent a most delightful month,
among the politest and most interesting people in the
world. Our great hope is to be permitted once more to
make another visit, when we shall seek the services, through
that useful institution, the "Guild of Guides," of M. Ito,
who by his bright and interesting descriptions of people,
places, and customs, has contributed so much to our
enjoyment ; and by his kindness and attention led us to
regard him as a " guide, philosopher, and friend." A valu
able adjunct is Murray's Handbook, making travelling
quite easy.
May 8th, Sunday. — Settled down once again to ship
life. We find this the most comfortable steamer we have
sailed in.

XII.
CALIFORNIA.

CHAPTER XII.
CALIFORNIA.
j\/f A Y gth, Monday. — A fine day, but nothing particular
going on, so had an opportunity of learning some
thing of our course to San Francisco. It is a distance of
4,525 miles by the great north circle, which is shorter than
going straight across, and what seems quite a paradox is
steering north-east to get to the west.
May 10th, Tuesday. — Nothing particular to note during
the day. Ship making good way, and sea moderate until
4 o'clock, when everybody was startled by the engines
stopping. The ship began to roll, so sails were set. It was
soon discovered that a connecting-rod had broken. Here
we are a thousand miles from land in the midst of a vast
ocean, and, of course, where ships are never met ; there
is nothing around but sea, not a sound, nor a bird, — even
the fishes seem to have deserted us.
Most of the passengers do not find the motion of the
ship pleasant ; it somehow seems to affect their appetites.
Perhaps it is fear.
May nth, Wednesday.— At 7 this morning the engines
were repaired, and the ship started again after a delay of

250 California.

1 5 hours. Many of the passengers had passed a bad night,
for the roll of the ship was uncomfortable. We never had
a better. May 12th, Thursday. — The weather is much colder, and
the day has been unpleasant with wind, rain, and snow.
Going north is a bad game for pleasure, and requires all
the resources of our boxes to keep our trunks warm — a
decided change from the Coral Sea.
May 13th, Friday. — The weather is improved, but it is
cold, temperature 38°. Ship sailing well. Nothing to see.
In the middle of dinner the electric light popped out, and
we were like Moses when the candle went out. Candles
were produced ; but for a time it was a kind of groping
light. It was found that the cylinder of the electric engine
had burst. So no more electric light at present.
May 14th, Saturday. — About 6 o'clock this morning we
crossed the 1 840, or Meridian, where it is supposed Neptune
visits the ships. If he called, our cabin was passed by, for
nothing of note happened.
May 14th, Saturday the Second. — Naturally, it will be
thought this is a mistake ; but not so, for all vessels passing
the 1840 repeat the day, because, for some time, we have
had only 23^ hours in each day, now we pick it all up by
having this extra day. The effects are peculiar, for this year
we shall have 367 days, and in the fortnight 4 Saturdays.
A gentleman tells us he passed on Christmas Day, and the
effect was two Christmas Days with two plum-puddings.
May 1 Slh, Sunday. — -The weather this morning was
beautiful, but cold ; for now we have got to the top of
the circle, and are 48'6° north.
This evening we had the electric light again, the
engineers having worked night and day to repair the
damage.

California. 251

May 16th, Monday. — Ship sailing well. Amusements
going on as usual.
About 5 o'clock we saw in the distance a schooner going
seal-fishing, a most unusual thing, for ships are seldom seen
in this course.
May 17 'th, Tuesday. — A fresh breeze, and all sails set,
which makes the ship lively.
May 18th, Wednesday. — A pouring wet day, with wind,
and some movement in the ship. In the evening Mrs.
S  , M.D., gave an address upon Theosophy, and her
journey to India to investigate this new system of religion,
which, in her mind and experience, is a failure. It was an
able and clear exposition.
May igth, Thursday. — A beautiful day, with a calm sea.
In the afternoon a full-rigged ship was passed, and two
whales were seen.
May 20th, Friday. — A most lovely day, and the games
were all finished up. Everybody seems to have his or her
mind on packing and getting ready for the inquisitorial
customs. Even parsons seem to enjoy a little contraband.
May 2 1st, Saturday. — About daybreak — 4 o'clock — we
took up the pilot, being near land. Most people were up,
for there was such a noise all night, sleep was impossible.
At 5 the sun rose right in the Golden Gate, as if to show
us the way in. The high hills were all " tipped with gold,"
and we could not have seen this notable harbour under
more favourable circumstances. A well-coloured sun in
a cloudless sky, the moon high up, and as bright as a
frosty night. At 6 o'clock coffee was served, tasting good
with the sharp morning air, and the picnic was honoured
with pretty faces, which had not seen the sun rise for a
long time.
About 7 o'clock, after sundry blowings of the siren, the

252 California.

quarantine officers arrived, when the usual handing over
of papers and consultations took place. They did not
take much account of the first-class passengers, but directed
their attention to the Japs and Chinese.
First the Chinese ladies and female children were paraded,
counted, and examined — 10 ladies and 13 children ; but for
some time the number could not be made to agree ; so
they were counted over and over again, and a few hard
words passed. Fortunately, these Celestial ladies did not
understand. Ultimately, it was found that one child was a
boy, and the ship's doctor had made a mistake ! Doctors
generally declare with some precision the sex an individual
has to acknowledge through life. Of course there must
be exceptions to prove the rule.
The next performance was to parade the Jap ladies.
They numbered 15, and passed muster in a much more
creditable style than the Chinese, two or three of whom
had such small feet that they could not stand without
assistance — one tall woman especially, who was a great
swell, and the wife of a rich merchant.
Then came the Jap men, 122 in number. They looked
like a lot of fat schoolboys, being dressed in European
costume, and, for the most part, much under 5 feet in
height. The examination of the Chinamen lasted much
longer, for each man was passed through a rope and
inspected, and, as there were 108, it lasted some time.
The chief officer told me afterwards that more than one
half would be taken back in the ship, as they did not pass.
The reason we could not find out ; but the poor wretches
would have to remain on the ship till June 3rd, and then be
taken back to China, which would occupy a month more.
These Japs and Chinese consumed on the voyage each
day an average of 1 2 cwt. of rice, for they never eat bread.

In

California. 255

After breakfast the Custom House officers sat in the
saloon to swear each passenger to a " Declaration " of
dutiable articles, or not, as the chance might be — a regular
farce, as the sequel will show. About 9 o'clock we arrived
at the dock, after passing through the beautiful harbour.
It is surrounded by hills, many miles in extent ; but not
equal to Sydney, Auckland, or Hong-Kong in our opinion.
All the baggage was brought ashore, and sorted into
respective lots of ownership. Also the mail bags, and about
50 half chests of Japan tea, most tidily done up in mats,
and labelled "First chop, 1892," "Finest young Hyson,"
" Spring picked," etc., etc. These were hurried off, being
of more importance than the mails, and wanted to display
in the shop windows in the evening. The examination
of the luggage now took place to verify the " Declarations."
Why make a man swear if they think it necessary to look
at everything in his boxes ? The examination must have
lasted hours, for the contents of large Chicago boxes and
Saratoga trunks were turned entirely out. Fortunately, we
got away under two hours, sending our few things by an
Express Delivery Company, and going ourselves by the
hotel omnibus, for which we paid 2s. 2d. each, to have our
bones nearly shaken out. What a difference between the
polite and obliging Japs and these Yankees ! We es
tablished ourselves at the " Palace Hotel," said to be the
largest in the world. For a room on the fifth floor we paid
the modest sum of $6 per night, or 25.5-. 6d., without food ;
but it is not considered dear, for dollars in this country of
California only represent shillings in England. A shave
costs half-a-dollar, and hair-cutting a dollar. Fancy, our
small crop costing such a sum, 4s. 3d. ; but we didn't try it.
After some business arrangements were concluded, we
of course had a tram ride. The rope trams are perfect,

California.

and the whole city is crossed and recrossed with these cars,
going every few minutes, for 5 cents. They are much like
switchback railways, for San Francisco is not a " city of
seven hills," nor yet of seventeen. How many hills there
are requires more than our limited experience to know ;
but one thing is quite sure, that in a tram ride you have
no sooner crossed one hill than another presents itself.
We mounted a red car, and proceeded up Montgomery
Street — the head street of the city — very wide, and filled
with large shops, and immense plate-glass windows, and
crowded with well-dressed people. Following street after
street, and through residential suburbs, we came to the
entrance of the " Golden Gate Park " on the top of a high
hill. Quitting the tram, we walked in the park, which is
beautifully laid out with broad walks and ornamental
waters. May 22nd, Sunday. — We went to the outside of the
city by tram to Intro Point and seal rocks, which form
one side of the Golden Gate. It is a fine bluff headland
with several cone-shaped rocks detached from the main
land. Here seals are preserved by the authorities, and
there are simply hundreds of them swimming in the water,
or basking on the rocks. Some seemed quite black,
whilst others are of fawn colour, and, for the most part, of
large size, many three or four times larger than any we
have seen before. The headland is laid out as a park and
garden by a gentleman, who allows the public to walk and
drive through. It is most tastefully done with palms,
statuary, shrubs, flowers, monkeys, bears, swans, and other
interesting objects.
After leaving California, we have " fixed up " to go to
Alaska to see the midnight sun, occupying a fortnight
on the sea.

California. 257

May 23rd. — We found San Francisco a big city to get
over, having about 300,000 inhabitants, and in China
Town over 30,000. The population is a mixture of races,
gathered together in the last 50 years or less, of course
attracted in the days of the gold fever. Many of the men,
especially the younger ones, are fine-looking fellows, and
the females have a type of beauty similar to the ladies
of Cork, who boast dark-blue eyes and black hair. They
may have fine figures, but we cannot give them credit for
taste in dress, being a little overdone, and the fashion of
long dresses is well carried out, even- to children. It is
quite comical to see four or five years old ones with
dresses to the ground, and the little monkeys having to
hold them up when walking. Truly the demon of fashion
prevails here. Making up some small luggage, we started
at 5 o'clock for a journey to the world-famed Yosemite
Valley, and to have our first experience in Californian
travelling. We had to cross the harbour to a town named
Oaklands, with about 12,000 inhabitants. The station is
like a railway station ticket office, and large waiting-
rooms, one marked " Broad Gauge," the other " Narrow " ;
and as our path was the broad one, we remained in that
saloon until nearly 1,000 people collected. At 5 o'clock
the doors were thrown open, and we walked into what
might have been a large house with two stories, and plenty
of glass windows. This was the ferry boat Newark,
with paddles over 30 feet in diameter, and said to be one
of the two largest in the world. Arriving at Oaklands (5
miles), we found an immense railway station, with half a
dozen long trains of Pullman cars ready to start. We
were ushered into a " sleeper," 20 of us expecting a
good night's rest, and to find ourselves 280 miles away in
the morning. '7

258 California.

May 24th, Tuesday. — We enjoyed our "sleeper" very
much, for after supping at a roadside station our beds were
made up, and the 20 retired behind their curtains and
went to bed. About 12 o'clock the "sleeper" and sleepers
were shunted at Barenda, remaining quiet until it was
time to make our toilets. The atmosphere was splendid —
warm, genial, refreshing, and full of sunshine, and the grain
crops for miles were of that beautiful rich yellow always
observable just before ripeness. A few fields were cut,
while others were filled with large haycocks, and the
" cattle on a thousand hills " give such a picture of
agricultural wealth as we had never seen before. At
Raymond station we left the train about 7 o'clock, and
adjourned to a roadside hotel, built of wood, where
breakfast was ready. It was quite refreshing to see our
American friends bolt the beef and mutton ; for in this
country, although the people are blessed with good-looking
teeth, it is absolutely rude to masticate your food. Only
cows do that. After breakfast we all set out in American
coaches, with 4 horses, and 1 1 passengers — 5 carriages in all.
The first part of the way was through a fine valley with
many trees and cattle. We then came to the foot of a
mountain clothed with huge trees. Some were pine, others
Californian red wood. The road became very narrow and
spiral, for it wound round and twisted about until we got
up over 3,000 feet, then began a descent into a valley, which
seemed crammed full of trees and foliage. Changing
horses every 6 or 7 miles, we reached at 2 o'clock
Grant Springs, where dinner was provided. The hotel is
large, and stuck in the side of a hill, commanding fine
views. It appears visitors are attracted to this isolated
spot by a sulphur spring, which cures everything but
wooden legs. We can now understand why these people

California. 259

bolted the tough beef, because riding in a coach with
leather springs for six hours and a half, and over what
can hardly be called a road, and is here named a trail,
would digest horse nails or old soles. It was decidedly
a good dinner — plain, sensible food : tough mutton and
roasted " rooster," followed by apple pie — and such apple
pie ! — made in a soup plate, and a helping that would have
stunned a plough-boy.
Resuming our seats, another ascent was begun over a
trail much like our New Zealand experiences, where
sometimes it was 1,000 feet or more sheer down, and the
road only sufficiently wide for one coach, with the wheels
frequently only a few inches from the edge ; but in this it
differed from New Zealand, where the drivers gallop and
the coach swings, in that here we went carefully, and the
horses rested in steep places very often, so that our speed
sometimes was only about 1 mile an hour. About 5.30
we reached the summit, 5,700 feet, passing snow and
ice. This is about 1,000 feet higher than any mountain
in Great Britain. Fancy driving a coach over Ben Nevis !
The views were grand, and the trees something to be
remembered. The descent of 2,000 feet was a nerve-trier,
with the swinging of the coach, and the screeching of the
brakes, to say nothing of the jolting, and the sharp turns ;
yet it was invigorating, and astonishing to see so many
wonderful sights. The setting sun gave lovely colour
through the trees, and grand cloud effects. At 8.30 we
pulled up in front of a fine hotel at Wawona, said to be
a village consisting of the hotel and a photographic shop.
The house was full, so we had quarters in a wooden
building with 20 doors, each door representing a bedroom.
May 25 th, Wednesday. — At 7 o'clock we were in our
places on the coach, and started with a call, " All aboard? "

260 California.

and, without the usual crack of the whip, went away at a
good pace, drawn by 4 large mules. Soon an ascent was
begun with a worse trail than yesterday, but the mules
stuck to their work until others took their places, and
dragged away at the coach. The trees and the views
became much finer until the summit was reached, 5,900
feet. Usually it is not difficult to realise when such a
desirable end has been accomplished ; but here, in the
Sierra Nevada, it was painted up in large letters, so wc
could have no doubt. It appears this is called " Hungry
Mountain," a good name for it, as we all found with the
sharp air we were ready, except perhaps those who bolted
" gap stoppers." The descent was continued until we
reached Inspiration Point, the first view of the celebrated
Yosemite Valley, which on each side is walled in by
perpendicular cleft rocks from 3,000 to 5,000 feet high, and
looking as if it would be almost impossible that a coach
and horses could find a way through it. Below us was the
fast-running river Merced, carrying away the water from
the numberless waterfalls. Its banks were clothed with
huge trees and foliage shrubs — a most wonderful picture,
and the view awe-inspiring over that rock, from which
nearly the whole length of the valley can be seen. It has
been said that " it is not easy to describe in words the
impression which great objects make upon us." This is
true : we can only say how wonderful are the works of God.
Then we are struck by the suggestion of the cause of
such a natural curiosity. To think of a ridge of granite
mountains from 5,250 feet to 9,900 feet above sea level being
split by some convulsion of nature about 2,000 feet, leaving
a valley less than a mile wide, with perpendicular sides,
and a river running on the floor of the valley, entirely fed
by waterfalls, causes us to wonder when such an awful

California. 261
convulsion of nature took place. Our intelligent coachman
told us the valley was first discovered by white men in
185 1, when the Mariposa soldiers went to fight the
marauding Indians, who frequently made raids upon
farming districts, and when followed suddenly disappeared.
Major Savage met a friendly Indian who " peached," and
told of the deep rocky valley on the Merced.
A drive of 4 miles, shaded by monster trees and those
of lesser size — some of great beauty, one especially, the
dog-tree, in full bloom, with white flowers, like clematis,
and the air perfumed with the scent from the spruce and
bay trees — brought us, about 2.30, to the Stoneman House,
a large wooden hotel with verandahs. The forest has
been partly cleared, leaving clumps of trees, which were
measured this week, and the average height was found to
be 210 feet. Just beyond is the great Yosemite Fall —
2,548 feet — which, as we are writing, can be both seen
and heard. The distance is covered in 3 leaps, the
upper one being about 1,500 feet, and where it comes
over the rock it is 40 feet wide, with a huge weight of
water. The Yankees claim this to be the finest waterfall
in the world.
May 26th, Thursday. — We breakfasted at 6 o'clock, and
started soon after to see the mirror lake before and after
the sun was on it. The effect before was grand ; for the
lake, forming a basin surrounded by high mountains and
fringed with trees and foliage, was like a mirror, reflecting
everything in the sharpest possible way, even so much so
that photographs are exactly the same, whichever side is
turned upwards. Then the sun comes on over the moun
tain, giving a prismatic effect by the rays being broken.
The carriage then conveyed us by a pretty road to a place
where 3 rivers meet, each one being the overflow of a

262 California.

waterfall. Crossing a bridge under which the united rivers
rush, we found horses and mules waiting to convey us up
a mountain trail — the gentlemen taking the mules, and the
ladies the horses. After an hour's climbing on these
animals, we came to a bridge opposite the falls (Vernal),
and then dismounted to rest the human and equine frames.
On each side of the river are huge trees, shrubs, wild
azaleas, wild lilacs, and many other flowers not familiar to
our view. This was backed up by perpendicular walls of
rock hundreds of feet high, and, at the end, the Vernal Falls,
dashing over a rock 350 feet high, with a river estimated
at 80 feet wide. The sun was shining as a Californian sun
can shine, with a cloudless sky — even bluer than Italy can
boast. The prismatic effects on the spray were ever chang
ing and most gorgeous. We left the scene with reluctance,
and had some doubts as to the possibility of finding a way
over the face of the mountain. The guide soon put us on
a trail, which was steep and full of zigzags, and the animals
answered to his cheery call. In some places one slip of the
foot meant picking up the pieces. After struggling for two
hours, and with sundry halts, we came to a fine plateau
of rocks, surrounded by the Half Dome, 8,823 feet ; the
Cloud's Rest, 9,912 feet; the Sentinel Dome, 8,122 feet;
and the North Dome, 7,522 feet — mountains of smooth
granite, almost perpendicular and quite close to us, giving
an effect of sterile grandeur. Here, between two of these
huge masses of granite, is the Nevada Fall, 617 feet, falling
upon smooth granite, which has become quite polished
with the continual rush of water and ice, and is called
the " Apron." The Indians call this fall the Pi-wa-ack,
or " Cataract of Diamonds " ; directly behind is the Cap
of Liberty, 7,062 feet, quite overhanging the fall. The
waters are gathered together, and rush between rocks at, it

Califot

ina.

263

is estimated, the rate of 60 miles an hour, causing a deafen
ing roar. Retracing our steps, or rather the mules' steps,
after some time we came in full view of the Tu-lu-la-wi, or
" Rushing Water," which falls 400 feet, then forms a series of
cascades. Just when we reached the valley
a thunderstorm came on, giving a fine
spectacle, and the roar reverberated fror
mountain to mountain —
just what we were anxious
to hear in such
a wonderful
place. May 27th,
Friday. — We
were up early,
and intended
going for an excursion
to Glacier Point ; but
as it was an arduous
ride, and we were somewhat
fatigued, discretion became
the better part of valour.
Glacier Point is exactly 3,325
feet perpendicularly above
the north side of this house,
and commands the finest
views in the district. There
is a small hotel, kept by
Mr. McAuley, an Irishman,
whose geniality is proverbial
is a piece of rock, projecting about 12 feet, and 3 feet
wide. Those with good heads walk to the end, but most
people cringe at the idea. It is said that a few years ago

Glacier' Point.

A peculiarity of this place

264 California.

Mr. McAuley took a young German woman to the end of
this prominent place and made her an offer of marriage,
with the information that, if she refused him, they would
at once take the shortest way to the Stoneman's House.
Of course she said yes, and is now cooking luncheons for
hungry tourists. This evening Mr. McAuley has treated
us to a bonfire at the end of the point ; and, after it had
burned for a time, he served it the same as he promised
the German girl — that is, he pushed the lighted sticks over
the rock. The effect was remarkable, looking as though
hundreds of rockets were coming down instead of going
up. Imagine the distance — 200 feet higher than any
mountain in England. El Capitan is the most con
spicuous mass, being 7,012 feet high, and perpendicular,
with a flat top, standing in the valley, making everybody
feel they must go round it. The surface is, for the most
part, polished granite, but in two or three places pieces
have fallen out, only looking like blemishes. In one,
apparently about 3 feet, is a pine tree, which can be fairly
seen only with a glass. It has been found to measure 125
feet high, and seems to prosper in its elevated position —
about 1,500 feet from the valley.
The cascade falls at the lower end of the valley arc
more pretty than grand ; but any defect is made up in the
rapids, where the river leaves this truly wonderful scene.
Returning, we visited the " Bridal Veil " again, just in time
to see the prismatic effects of the afternoon sun.
May 28th, Saturday. — We turned out at 4.30 A.M., and
were on the coach at 6. The atmosphere was most charming,
and put new life into us. After a 3 -hours' drive we arrived
at Inspiration Point, 5i248 feet, and took our farewell view
of the most remarkable scenery in the world, it is said.
At 12 o'clock we reached Wawoona, and had lunch, also

Calif

vrnia.

*5

secured bedrooms for the night ; I o'clock found us again
seated in a carriage for a visit to the celebrated Mariposa
Park, wherein are the largest trees in the world — not ones
or threes, but hundreds, and, as in all phases of life, some
are larger than others ; but they are all giants amongst trees.
There is one 120
feet in circum
ference ; another
so large that our
coach, with 4
horses, d rove
through a hole in
the trunk. This
tree is found by
calculation to be
3,270 years old,
and does not grow
anywhere except
in California, in
a district 150
miles long, and
bears the name
of Sequoia gigan-
tica, after some
grand Indian.
This wonderful
grove was dis- Mariposa Park Tree.
covered in 1 849,
and is from 5,000 to 7,000 feet above the sea level.
May 2gth, Sunday. — We started at 8 on the return
journey, and had a long drive to Raymond, where the
" sleeper " was all ready, and we were glad to turn in.
May 30th, Monday. — Stopping at Lathop for breakfast ;

266 California.

we made good work of a hasty meal, and then went on our
way to San Francisco, arriving at 12.30, and decided to
patronise the "Occidental Hotel," which, if smaller than
the other, is much more comfortable.
June 1st, Wednesday. — There are many fine shops, and
the ladies float about as in Regent Street — some in
carriages, others promenading and shopping. The cos
tumes are quite equal to those in London, if not superior ;
but that may appear from the wearers having such fine
figures, being tall and well set up, and not suffering from
their shoes, as narrow toes are not fashionable. Probably
the fair sex see the folly of their Chinese neighbours.
After completing our necessary arrangements, we started
for a long ride to Mount Shasta.
The first portion of the journey was across the Oaklands
Ferry, then by the side of the Golden Gate Harbour, until
we reached the Great Ferry, where the train, divided into
3 sections, was run on to an immense ferry boat, and
then taken across the harbour, about 2 miles. The whole
arrangement was carried out so easily that, unless our
attention had been called to the fact of being on a barge,
we should not have known it. The weight must have been
immense ; for the train consisted of 10 Pullman cars, 80 feet
long each, and 3 or 4 very large luggage-vans.
June 2nd, Thursday. — We got up at 5 to see the fine
scenery, which had during our sleep become mountainous.
Following the banks of the pretty Sacramento River, we
soon came in view of the last grand towering" landmark of
the Sierra Nevada in the north — standing alone in its white,
silent majesty, like Fugiyama in Japan — Mount Shasta.
It is 14,450 feet high, and, after the foot-slopes, it is covered
with snow and ice. We soon entered Sacramento Canon,
and the train mounted up loops. First you are by the

California. 267

river ; then, with sundry winds and twists, and gaining
many fresh views, ascend 2,000 feet. Coming to the Mount
Shasta Spring, the train pulled up, and the passengers
rushed out to get a drink of the celebrated water, which
cures everything, and all but brings dead men to life again.
About 10 we arrived at Sissons, and left the train, to make
a break in this long journey. The platform seemed quite at
the foot of Mount Shasta, and we had a fine view.
Taking a carriage for about a mile, we landed at the
hotel, a long, low wooden house, after the style of New-
Zealand, with three large rooms, no carpets, and plain wood
furniture — everything very plain, but clean. In the front
of the house are some fine pine trees, and the finest possible
view of Mount Shasta. The proprietor of the hotel is a
remarkable man in more ways than one — in stature middle
height, very thin, stooping gait, and bearing traces of hard
usage. He has a keen, determined face, with one eye that
looks through you. The other is gone, and in the socket
is a piece of white paper, giving a very comical expression.
Thirty years ago he came here, when the only inhabitants
were unfriendly Indians, who raided his cattle, and would
have saved him the trouble of a barber if they had had
the chance. He pointed out a place, within 100 yards of
his house, where he used to shoot bears. This place had
no name, and is now called after its illustrious settler,
Mr. Sissons of Sissons, and the hotel is Sissons.
Our host says there are immense glaciers on the eastern
and northern sides of the mountain, in awful gorges ; but
on account of the almost inaccessible heights and depths
they remain, for the most part, in secret solitude — a good
field for the Alpine club ! This would be a charming place
for a holiday— fresh air, good water, and milk. Two
gentlemen have just come in from fishing in the river, with

268 California.

a splendid show of large trout, some weighing 5 or 6
pounds. The sunset had a splendid effect upon the
mountain, giving rosy hues to the snow ; then came the
silvery moon, which produced a fresh set of shadows, with
a quiet and serenity only to be appreciated in'' a place so
far from the works of man. Not a voice to be heard,
nor any cattle to be seen ; Nature having retired for her
night rest, we did the same. Rising early in the morning,
we found a cloudless sky, with a decidedly cold, crisp air,
and the mountain looking as if the upper edges had been cut
with a knife. Our host told us of the growth of this place
in his 30 years' experience. There are now within 5 miles
half a dozen factories for making boxes, and the land
is being cleared in many places ; so the population is
increasing. Securing sleeping berths, and taking our seats,
we travelled all day through a most wonderful country,
sometimes in deep valleys, by the sides of fast-running
rivers ; at others, ascending by zigzags, or loops, on to the
tops of mountains. At least they would be considered so
in England, because twice we were higher than the highest
mountain in Great Britain. One of these is the boundary
between California and Oregon, which we crossed about 5.
About 9 we took possession of our berths, and retired for
the night, rising about 6 in the morning to find ourselves
travelling on the banks of the great Columbia River, which
drains an immense mountainous district. We saw it to
great advantage, for the hot sun of the last few days had
melted the snow, causing the river to be flooded. We passed
Oregon city, where the river falls about 50 feet, forming a
small Niagara. The city seems a prosperous place, and has
several large flour mills — of course worked by water-power.
Following the river, we arrived at Portland, which is on one
side, and crossed to West Portland on the other, both most

California. 269

important business places, with fine buildings, good streets,
and electric trams. There were many fine ships in the river,
and steamboats in the American style, carrying passengers
from towns and villages in the district. Altogether, these
places gave the idea of a most important business centre.
Later in the day we took the train to Tacoma, again follow
ing the river, until we came to a ferry, when the whole lot,
7 long carriages, 3 immense luggage vans, and a powerful
engine, was shipped upon a huge ferry boat, and trans
ported about a mile up the river to a ferry, where the train
was landed, re-formed, and then steamed away as though
nothing had happened. This huge barge was propelled
by paddles, and steered in the ordinary way.
Passing through forests which are being cleared, and
finding other rivers to follow, we arrived about 4 o'clock
at Tacoma, in Washington, and repaired to the hotel
"Tacoma," a very large and pretentious place, where we
secured a room with a fine view. About 7 years ago
this city hardly existed, merely a few houses, and now it
has a population of over 60,000, with miles of fine streets
and large buildings. Municipal and court houses, banks,
manufactories, stores, shops, and in the suburbs beautiful
villas, electric lights, electric and rope trams, and in fact
everything required in these days of high civilisation. The
city is situated on Puget Sound, and has fine wharves well
filled with large steamers, and ships from all parts of the
world. The situation is beautiful. On the opposite side
of the Sound are forests of large trees, and behind a range
of mountains, mostly snow-capped. One, Mount Tacoma,
a magnificent mountain, is 14,420 feet high.
June $tk, Whitsunday. — Went to St. Luke's Church,
an episcopal high church, where the service is well con
ducted on those lines — no pulpit nor reading desk. We

2 Jo California.

had a walk in the suburbs, and found a fine park well laid
out. The turf was splendid ; in fact, we have not seen any
so good since leaving home. As there were 256 wet days
last year, we are fortunate in having a fine one. From
this park there is a good view of Puget Sound below the
harbour, which looks like a fine lake studded with islands,
and surrounded by trees, backed up by the Olympia range
of mountains. Mount Olympia, the height of which we
cannot ascertain, looks like another Shasta or Tacoma
Mining, wheat-growing, wood-cutting, and cattle-breeding
seem to be the chief sources of wealth.

XIII.
ALASKA.

CHAPTER XIII.
ALASKA.
7 UNE 6th, Whitsun Monday. — We sailed on the Queen
at 4 o'clock this morning for Alaska. The Queen is
an American boat of about 3,000 tons, with four decks, pre
senting the appearance of a Peabody workman's dwelling,
each cabin opening on to a verandah ; and there are 94
of these boxes. We witnessed a contention between what
appeared a newly-married lady and her husband — quite
young and inexperienced. The lady wished her trunks to
be placed in the cabin ; the poor husband said they were too
large to go in through the door. However, she, not to be
done, got a porter and his man to take them ; but on arriving
at the staircase, or, more nautically speaking, the " com
panion," this companion was found to be too small. Of
course it was not the trunks that were too large. It ended
in the disgust of the lady, and the consignment of the
trunks to the hold.
The sail down Puget Sound was pleasant on this fine
morning ; soon we arrived at Seattle, another mushroom
town which has grown up in the last 7 years, and had
the misfortune to be burnt down 3 years ago. There

274 Alaska.
are fine streets, buildings of immense size, electric trams,
and shops that Regent Street might envy. Sailing again,
at 9 o'clock, we arrived about 12 at Townsend, a very
pretty place of much smaller dimensions, and remained
an hour and a half. Though small, it is a busy place,
with its ships and wharves and a Yankee gunboat, which
had nothing better to do than to salute us as we left.
Sailing again, we came to a very prettily situated infant
town, which has been in existence less than 2 years, and
was christened Anacortes. Large buildings have sprung
up, a town hall, and an extensive hotel, besides several
smaller ones, wide streets, electric lights, telegraphs and
telephones, manufactories, stores, etc., all spread about,
with plenty of blocks to fill up. The vacant spaces are
only " burnt off," with the result that thousands of charred
trunks of trees are still standing, looking in the distance
like men. The population is now about 15,000, who
support 2 daily newspapers. What unhappy people !
Another sail of 2 hours brought us into British waters,
and to the city of Victoria, where we landed, and are
going to remain for the night. The sunset, as seen from
our ship, was most remarkable, being lurid and wild-
looking in the extreme, the very opposite of the calm
British lion. The nearly full moon was well up to give
her presence and light. In the east the afterglo'w was very
striking, making the snow mountains look red ; then a little
to the north was a huge rainbow, the whole casting a glare
upon the water. In the foreground was the wreck of a large
steamer. Such a scene cannot be reproduced.
June 7th, Tuesday. — Having completed taking in the
stores of the ship (for even American shipowners find
out the difference in price between free trade countries
and their own prohibitive tariff), we stayed all night to

Alaska.

275

take on board stock of all kinds, from whiskey to cabbages.
Unfortunately it has been a pouring wet morning, and
has spoilt our chance of seeing distant views ; but the
sail down the Gulf of Georgia, with its many islands, has
proved very interesting. The rain has passed off, and
warm sunshine is most grateful. We are in the midst of
fine scenery, sailing between the mainland and Vancouver
Island, being part of the seaboard of British Columbia.
From 5 o'clock to 7 we sailed through Discovery Passage
and Seymour Narrows into Johnstone's Straits. The
scenery has become very fine, for we seem to sail from
one lake to another, surrounded by high hills all clothed
with pine trees, and snow-capped mountains in the
background. In some places the creeks run inland
hundreds of miles, and are the outlets of large rivers,
such as the Fraser River, celebrated, amongst other things,
for its fine salmon, some of which are on board. The
ever-changing colour of the water is a striking feature.
Sometimes it is green, at others, when open to the sea,
blue, and where the rivers rush in quite grey. There has
been a very fine sunset showing up all the mountains,
and illuminating the clouds with the lurid glow of the
departing sun..
June 8th, Wednesday. — A very fine morning, and the
ship sailing well. The scenery is becoming much bolder,
and the forests are immense. The G. O. M. would find
plenty of employment here for the remainder of his
days, without disfigurement of any park ; and as this is
all the property of John Bull, he might do some good by
sending the timber to market.
This morning we passed Graham's Reach and the village
of Bella Bella. Sailing through Wright's Sound, we came
across a large canoe filled with Indians, "paddling their

276 Alaska.
own canoe " ; but the amount of human life in these parts
is very small, and there is plenty of room for our surplus
population. Being caged up with 256 Americans on pleasure bent
gives us an opportunity of studying their peculiarities.
They are not gourmets, but gourmands ; for quantity is
the ruling passion of males and females and their offspring.
To give some idea, we noticed the breakfast of a fair-haired
girl who sat at the same table with us. First came a plate
ful of porridge, with a plentiful supply of milk, butter, and
sugar ; second, a large piece of beefsteak only half cooked,
with a quantity of fried potatoes, and sweet cakes, then two
eggs and a dish of radishes ; next came two large griddle-
cakes, with a liberal supply of butter, sugar, and honey,
washed down with two or three glasses of iced water and a
cup of strong coffee. This young lady came up smiling at
lunch, then again at dinner.
June gth, Thursday. — Early this morning we passed
500 40', and again entered American possessions — territory
of which they are very proud, and not without cause, having
had more foresight than the English Government when
Russia was willing to sell Alaska, — which is the seaboard
of part of British Columbia, and that large territory in the
far west, some of it held by the Hudson's Bay Company.
America purchased, for little over two millions sterling,
600,000 squares miles of territory, which is nearly 700 miles
from their nearest point, thus depriving us of the seaboard.
We were informed that the name " Alaska " is a corruption
of Al-az-ck-sa, the native meaning of which is " Great
Country " ; and it may be considered the Norway of the
Pacific, with, in the North, its midnight sun. At 9 o'clock
we arrived at Wrangel, a small settlement of 400 or 500
inhabitants, chiefly Indians, who live by fishing and

Alaska. 277
hunting. There are two tribes, the Sitkine and the
Thlinket, the latter being stupid, heavy-looking people.
Going ashore, we first visited the house of old Joe, whose
sign is a white flag on a stick. Joe makes wooden spoons
in winter, and goes fishing in summer. He was not at
home, so we moved on to visit the churches — one Roman
Catholic, the other a chapel of some sort, but quite a
tidy place. There are not any roads, as they would be
useless on account of the absence of houses ; but the
ways are indicated by boards placed as footpaths about
two feet from the ground, leaving plenty of room for the
water to run away. The chief, a thick-set, dull-looking
man, was busy selling what he could, and Mrs. Chief was
nursing a baby. She was an ugly woman, with a broken
nose and black teeth. We do not like to call the fair
sex by such a title, but plain would not describe these
Indian women, nor yet the children, for they are born
ugly. By way of improving their ugliness, it is a
common practice to blacken their faces. Some of the
women have a piece of silver pushed through the lower
lip, while others use a piece of bone something like a
stud, but for what purpose we could not ascertain. In
front of all the houses of persons of distinction are
" Totem Poles." These poles are from 20 to 30 feet high,
and about 2 feet thick, and show by their carving the
descent and family alliances, and their histories. The
male pole has on the top a man with a chimney-pot hat
and large eyes, then comes another man, with heads of
animals, etc., carved on his coat ; and, if he has been a
generous man, five round rings on each side ; then comes
perhaps a bear's head, and more men's faces, etc.
The female pole has an eagle on the top and a crow at
the bottom, all of which have significations unknown to us.

278

Alaska.

Most of the Indians here are either hunting or fishing, and
their houses are closed with a notice to that effect. One
man, who left on May 6th, returned last week with 30
bear-skins, for which he
got about £30 sterling.
Near this place is the
Stikeen River, celebrated
for large salmon, and there
are several "Canneries," for
packing the fish in tins.
We saw a man come to
the ship with a dozen huge
fish — certainlynot less than
60 lbs. each— the hand
somest salmon we ever
saw, and the price asked
was 2s. 6d. each.
On the beach were many
fine canoes made out of tree-
trunks, which must have
entailed a large amount of
labour. Just before 12 o'clock we left this outlandish place,
and sailed past the mouth of the Stikeen River, where grey
waters were observable for some miles. Our course was
through Sumner Straits, a very narrow and serpentine
passage, with sunken rocks, only to be crossed at high tide
and dead slow speed. We then came to Wrangel Straits
and Frederick Sound, passing several fine glaciers and
small icebergs, which had become detached — Patterson's
Glacier, 6,000 feet ; Baird Glacier, 5,931 feet.
June 10th, Friday. — Soon after 5 o'clock this morning
we were aroused by a grating sound, with frequent bumps,
suggesting that the ship had run on to a rock. Turning

totem poles.

Alaska. 279
out, and opening our front door, was only the work of a
moment. What a sight met our startled senses — not rocks,
nor billows, but icebergs. We were in the Taku inlet,
surrounded by floating ice of all dimensions. Some of the
bergs were as large as the ship, while others were smaller,
assuming all sorts of shapes. The colour of some of the
pieces was the finest blue imaginable. The ship was
going dead slow, and stopping to force its way to the face
of the Toku Glacier, from which frequent falls of ice took
place, with the roar of a park of artillery. Surrounded by
precipitous snow-clad mountains, with several arms of the
glacier, and not a breath of wind nor a sound, except when
a fall took place, this was the most magnificent spectacle
we had ever seen. It soon became apparent that the ship
was going to take in some of the ice, for the requisite
tackle was produced, and very soon a large block, say two
tons or more, was ingeniously transported from the shining
water into the hold. This was continued for four hours,
so that we have a good supply if ice-creams are required.
Although it was very cold and sharp, making hands go
into pockets, and hot tears run down till the noses stood
out in prominent redness, we could not tear ourselves
away from such a novel and wonderful sight. Soon after
9 o'clock a movement was made to get out of this ice
bound place, which savoured of the polar regions, great
care being required not to damage the screw. Two crows
and a few seals were the only live things we saw ; and no
wonder, in such a desolate place. Steaming through some
wonderful scenery, we arrived about noon at Treadwell
Mines, and landed to inspect what is said to be the
largest quartz (gold) mill in the world. The manager
most politely allowed us to see the whole. Of course it
is exactly the same as those we visited in Australia and

280 Alaska.
New Zealand, with the exception of the quartz being
obtained from the side of a hill or mountain. Many people
are employed, and the mine produces about £500,000
worth of gold each year. Nearly opposite these mills,
across a narrow strait, is the town of Juneau, the metro
polis of Alaska, the short history of which is soon told,
for previous to 1880 it was not known. During the
Prussian occupation of Alaska prospecting for precious or
other metals was strictly prohibited, for fear it would
interfere with hunting and trading with the Indians. So
strictly was this carried out, that on one occasion a hunter
came across a piece of rich gold quartz, which he took
to the governor at Sitka, with the result that he was tied
to a post, and received forty lashes. After the transfer
to America a different state of things began, prospectors
investigating the various channels in this inland sea. In
1880 Joseph Juneau left Sitka in a canoe, accompanied
by two Indians, taking provisions for several months, and
they sailed about some of the channels. In July of the
same year, whilst prospecting along Gastineau Channel,
they found a small stream containing good prospects, and
they ascended about 4 miles to its head, where they
came upon an immense deposit of gravel rich in gold.
This was afterwards named Gold Creek, and is to-day
worked most extensively. Joseph Juneau built the first
cabin, which was the foundation of the town bearing his
name. On the site of the cabin now stands a jeweller's
shop. The town is prettily situated in a corner at the
foot of the mountains, and the houses are built of wood,
in a somewhat irregular manner. There is a wharf, to
which we are tied, looking upon the houses facing the
straits. In all our travels we have seen in every country " Wor-

Juneau, Alaska.

Alaska. 283
cester Sauce " for sale, and this outlandish metropolis is
not an exception ; for in a store window (established 1888)
there were Worcester sauce, and Crosse and Blackwell's
pickles, but we did not patronise them. The population
is said to be 1,600 ; and there are 4 churches, 5 schools,
5 doctors, 7 lawyers, 7 hotels, 1 newspaper, 2 restaurants,
1 candy factory, 3 breweries, 2 cigar factories, 1 watch-
tinker, and 1 Shookam-house tyce, whatever that may be.
June nth, Saturday. — About 6 o'clock this morning we
arrived opposite the Davidson Glacier, with a fine morning
and bright sunshine. This is the most important of
over 100 we had passed in the last two days — including
the Great Auk, Eagle, Toku, etc. It is like an open fan,
3 miles across its front, and 1,200 feet above the fiord —
a huge mass of ice. Near this is the township of Chilcat,
an important centre ; but we did not land, as it is inferior
to Juneau, and has not any striking peculiarities beyond
being the home of a race of Chilcat Indians.
Lynn Canal, named by Vancouver, the discoverer, who
was a native of Lynn in Norfolk, is a fine fiord, which he
named after his birthplace. It is the finest fiord in the
Chilcat country. Here salmon fishing is extensively carried
on, for the place is alive with splendid fish. The North
west Trading Company have established a salmon cannery
here, and employ a number of Indians and Chinese, the
Chinese performing the more technical work of arranging
the tins and soldering. The almost alive salmon are
brought in, then, with two or three cuts of a long knife,
the fish is split down the back, washed, and passed on
to be cut into pieces to fit the tin ; the lid is then soldered
on, with the exception of one spot. Afterwards the tins
are placed in boiling water till the fish is cooked ;
the spot is soldered, making them hermetically sealed;

284 Alaska.
then they are packed in boxes of four dozen each.
In 1888 there were 17 of these canneries in Alaska,
and there has been a large increase in number since ;
because now people have found out the excellence and
cheapness of this article of food. " The returns collected
in 1888 showed that 440,000 cases of 1 lb. tins were
shipped ; also 1 5,000 barrels of salted salmon, weighing
12,060 tons. The same report shows that 195,000 lbs. of
fresh halibut and 235,000 lbs. of salted, also 6,000,000 lbs.
of cod, were sent away, and the number of whales about
the same as usual."
We passed through Peril Straits, which, as the name
indicates, is a narrow passage some miles in length, more
like a river with its turns and twists and swiftly running
water, in some places quite like rapids, with rocks and small
islands. So difficult is the navigation through these rushes
of water that the anchor is always ready to be slipped,
being hung in a "catch," which is fastened with a piece
of string, a sailor standing with his knife ready to cut
it at any moment, when the anchor would fall to the
bottom in a second. The surrounding mountains are
clothed with pine trees down to the water's edge, and up
to the snow-line. It is novel and wonderful scenery. A
sharp turn round a point brought us into full view of Sitka,
the capital of Alaska, and the seat of government, situated
on a tongue of land projecting into the fiord, and surrounded
by small islands covered with trees and vegetation, and in
the background perpendicular snow-mountains. From the
ship it looked a most serene and beautiful place.
Landing at a wharf, we passed through a warehouse and
Custom House into a large open space, hardly a square, with
on one side the barracks, where are 20 soldiers, and on the
other about a dozen old cannon, which, if persuaded with

Alaska. 285
plenty of powder, might make a noise ; whilst on the third,
on a knoll rising many feet, is the old Muscovite Castle of
Baranoff and the gaol. On a road leading from this " platz "
is the ancient Greek church, a most distinguished-looking
building, with its domed roof and octagon clock tower.
Many of the houses are fine buildings, 2 or 3 stories
high, and of a great length, evidently of Russian design, and
painted white. The shops and stores seem similar to those
in other places of the same kind. The roads are good and
well kept, and the whole place savours of civilisation, and
is clean, with the exception of the Indian village, where
there are several hundreds of Indians ; the white population
numbering about 400, a good many of whom look like
Germans with their quiet faces, but are Russians, who have
become naturalised under the " Stars and Stripes." The
Indian men hunt, and fish, and do anything else, but are
not energetic, while the women make all sorts of curios out
of skins, carve wood, and make rough-looking spoons out
of dollars. On the arrival of a ship like this, the women,
dressed in their gaudy best clothes, sit by the side of the
roads with a set-out of curios on a rug.
Walking along a road we came to the Alaskan news
paper office. The proprietor, Maurice E. Kenealy, son of
the late notable Dr. Kenealy, had gone to Frisco for a
holiday ; but as the newspapers seem to be filled with stock
information, a few additions keep them going. Farther
along was the Museum, a building painted yellow, with
Totem poles and sundry devices. A polite man, who had
the keys, invited an inspection, which we gladly accepted,
and saw many curiosities from the Arctic regions, in the
shape of things used by the Esquimaux, stuffed wild
animals, fish, shells, etc. ; also Indian and Russian curios
thus spending a pleasant and instructive hour.

286 Alaska.
Continuing our walk through an avenue of shrub-like
cedar trees, we reached the Indian river, a pearly stream
flowing between banks covered with shrubs. Wending
our way along the side of this murmuring stream, we
came to a rustic bridge, and there rested to enjoy one of
the finest possible evenings. Returning by another road,
our walk was enlivened by a splendid sunset casting its
rays upon Mount Edgecombe, an extinct volcano covered
with snow, rising from the water in the shape of a cone
with an island for its base, thereby not interfered with by
neighbours. The afterglow was splendid.
June 12th, Trinity Sunday. — We went to the Greek
church, but found there was no service, because most of
the congregation were away fishing, so we spent an hour
inspecting the church. Beneath the large dome is an
altar raised upon 2 steps, with a stool upon which is the
bishop's mitre, most profusely decorated with jewels and
enamels, and a cross about 2 inches long cut out of a
single emerald of the finest water, worth a fabulous sum ;
also 2 gold crowns used in the marriage ceremony, one
for the bride and the other for the bridegroom, the said
ceremony lasting 3 hours. On the walls were many paint
ings, or, more properly called, embellishments, in frames,
one a Madonna and child said to be by Raphael, the
only painted portion visible being the faces and hands, the
remainder covered with silver and gold, most elaborately
worked to represent the clothing and a gold crown and
halo, the whole having a gorgeous but inartistic effect.
Nearly all the others were similar, and some painted on
ivory. Richly decorated candelabra stood upon the floor,
holding such thick wax candles that one lasted 5 years.
Behind the altar, on opening 2 large doors, was the " Holy
of Holies," into which females are not admitted, and for

Alaska. 287
the matter of that we were only allowed a peep, although
a payment of half-a-dollar was charged to see the whole
show. We next visited the gaol, a very primitive affair.
The gaolor was most polite, and answered all our inquiries.
There are 10 cells, and a large day -room. At 6 in the
morning the prisoners clean up, and then go into the day-
room, which looks into the street. Having nothing to do
all day, nor any books to read, the time must seem long.
Once a week they have a little tobacco, and are fairly well
fed ; but it seems a bad system for a man to be left month
after month in a cage. In the harbour two or three gun
boats are always stationed, and at this season more, for the
protection of the seal fisheries. The U.S.A. have let the
Alaskan seal fisheries to a company to catch 100,000 seals
each year ; and besides the rent there is a tax upon each
skin of 2\ dollars, or a little over 10s., which accounts for
the absurd price of seal skins.
About 12 o'clock we were summoned by the ship's siren,
which, by the way, excited all the dogs in the town, and
their name is legion. In one house we counted 11. The
ship glided away, threading through the numerous islands
until Sitka was lost to view.
Being particularly fine, and all the snow mountains clear,
the sail was most enjoyable, going, as it were, from lake to
lake, and river to river.
About 9 o'clock, with sun shining brightly and the snow
peaks towering to the blue sky, we entered Icy Straits,
and soon came in contact with floating icebergs, many
much larger than the ship. The ice increased in quantity,
and became so full of floes that the ship had to be stopped,
because running against these huge bergs shook it from
end to end, and there was the fear of breaking the screw.
We elbowed our way through this crowd of ice for 5 hours,

Alaska.

and saw a good exemplification of Arctic navigation in the
bumping, scraping, and bucking — i.e., putting the ship back
and trying a fresh place. It appeared as if you might go-
for miles from " berg to floe."
The surrounding mountains were covered with snow and
ice down to the water's edge, and not a vestige of vegetation
visible. The wonderful sapphire blue of the ice, with its
chameleon changes to Lapis Lazuli, and the atmosphere
tinted with the rays of a northern setting sun (10.15)

v,

;S I:*,

',-,-V'-

Iceberg.

behind the Fairweather range of mountains, sending their
illuminated peaks into the very heavens, and lighting up
the whole canopy with various hues, presented a spectacle
of wonder to the mind, producing an impression never to
be erased, and a feeling that life has been increased in
value by witnessing such wonders of the works of our
Creator. The afterglow of the sunset continued until 1
o'clock as a coloured light to which we were steering, and
towards 2 the day began to break in the north-east, when
we entered Glacier Bay, and anchored at 2.15. We turned
in for a rest after this exciting scene, but sleep did not

Alaska. 289

follow quickly after being exposed to the cold consequent
upon the quantity of ice.
June 13th, Monday. — It is said that the inhabitants of
besieged towns become familiar with the roar of cannon,
and sleep as though it was only the bleating of cattle.
This was hardly our case, for the roar of avalanches falling
from the glacier prevented our rest, and was originally the
cause of its discovery ; for one Dick Willoughby, who was
squatting near the entrance to Icy Straits, told Captain
Carrol, the commander of this ship, of the great glacier
30 miles up the bay, the thud of whose falling ice could be
heard and felt at his house, declaring that it rattled his
teacups, and sent waves to his shore. In 1883 the captain
took him in the steamer Idaho to verify his statements, and
found what is said to be the largest known glacier in the
world, and, as far as investigations have been made, is
35 miles long, 6 to 10 miles wide, and the surface of the
ice measures 350 square miles. The front or wall of ice is
about 200 feet above the water-level at high-tide. We are
anchored about half a mile from it, in full view, and it is
an amusement to see the huge pieces of ice fall into the
water, sending up volumes of spray, with a roar like
thunder. After breakfast the ship's boats were placed at
the disposal of the passengers, who, for the most part, went
ashore. We walked to the face of the glacier, and were
then struck with its grandeur, both in shape and colour.
Some of the pinnacles looked perfect works of archi
tecture and statuary, like Milan Cathedral. It was sad to
think they would all fall during the week into the fiord ;
for the glacier recedes on an average 7 feet a day, throw
ing off about 2,000 tons of ice, which float as icebergs,
either to be melted by the sun, or washed out to sea. Our
next venture was a climb up the moraine — a rather rough
19

290 Alaska.
experience for our boots ; but we were rewarded for our
efforts by reaching the glacier in an hour ; and another
hour brought us to a point from which there was a won
derful view— nothing but fields of ice and snow mountains,
with glaciers as far as the eye can reach. The surface was
scored with crevices deep and blue, some giving off sounds
of rushing water. It was a desolate picture, without animal
life, except now and then a few eagles flying high up on their
way to more fruitful places. We have never seen glaciers
so easy of access and less difficult to walk over, giving us
an opportunity of viewing these extensive fields of ice,
which have existed for thousands of years, and becoming
familiar with the glacial theory where it is a stern reality.
The captain took the ship within 100 yards of the face
of the glacier, then sailed the whole length, 3 miles, for
the water is 100 fathoms deep close up to the ice ; so that
with this 600 feet below the water and the 200 to 300 above,
there is nearly 1,000 feet of ice in depth. The night was
clear, giving views of the St. Elias range, 70 miles distant ;
but there were not any decided sunset effects ; so we turned
in for a good night's rest after leaving Icy Straits.
June 14th, Tuesday. — The ship continued sailing down
Chatham Straits, and into Frederick Sound, where we
remained stationary for 5 hours, waiting for the tide to
pass through Wrangel Passage, which is a dangerous place,
except at high tide, on account of the rush of water. The
rest has been quite enjoyable after the excitement of yes
terday, with warm sunshine and grand scenery. At 3 o'clock
we started again, passing safely through the difficult navi
gation, and then stopped for a conversation with a canoe full
of Indians, of whom there seemed to be three or four
generations, from babies to old women. Then came a
small steam-launch for a missionary, whom we brought

Alaska.

291

from Sitka. His pleasant lot for 3 days is to be in a
canoe with Indians, who are going to take him to a station
70 miles distant. It has come on a pouring wet night, so
social amusements under cover have to be found.
June l^th, Wednesday. — We are now sailing in British
waters, having passed Fort Simpson in the night, and

An Indian's House.
through Grenville Channel, Graham's Reach, into Queen
Charlotte Sound, where the scenery is lovely, like a chain
of beautiful lakes. This evening we passed Bella Bella,
a station of the Hudson Bay Company. From the water
it looks a pretty place, with 47 houses and a portentous-
looking church, of course all built of wood. The inhabitants
are about 30 white people and 400 Flat Head Indians.

292 Alaska.
There are several races of these people, who come under
the category of North American Indians. The ones we
have seen most of are the Thinklets and some Eskimo,
who inhabit the shores, and come into the fiords during
the salmon season. Mr. Badlam writes that the Thinklets
are the most warlike of these northern tribes, and in war
fare cruel and savage, but most favourable to white men ;
whereas the Chilcats and Chilkoots are just the reverse.
The Thinklets have the character of ingenuity in the
manufacture of utensils and instruments of warfare, and
working in metals. They have a respect for women and
aged people, not common amongst their tribes, and are fond
of personal adornments ; but does not that equally apply
to our own countrymen who frequent Bond Street? Of
•course tastes in adornment differ ; at the same time, taste
is only fashion. The Indians embellish nature by wearing
ear- and nose-rings, from which are hung ornaments in
shell, bone, wood, copper, and silver, and their heads are
frequently variegated with greasy colours. Tattooing is
practised by drawing a coloured thread under the skin, but
it is not as effective as the Japanese. A tattooed woman,
with nose- and ear-rings so heavy that her features are
drawn out of shape, and a lip button, is not a picture of
loveliness. Polygamy is common, and the number of wives seems
regulated by wealth ; for the wife does not bring any
profit to the household, as there are tribal taxes levied in
proportion to the number of wives.
These people are fond of the " cratur," and' when intoxi
cated commit all sorts of excesses ; so a law has been
passed forbidding the sale of alcohol to the Indians.
Alaska is a wonderful country, but at present suffering
from the want of land-laws ; for although Congress made

Alaska. 293
such a flourish of trumpets on acquiring the territory, it
is not yet admitted into Congress, and there is not any
security in building houses or manufactories, or opening
mines, because there is not any title, the United States
having the power to step in and take everything.
June 16th, Thursday. — Our sail continued in British
waters, passing many cultivated spots, until we arrived at
the entrance of a beautiful bay in Vancouver Island, called
New Westminster, where there are extensive collieries, with
railway drops to several wharves ; so that many ships of
large size can take in coal at the same time. Our ship
went alongside, and took in 500 tons. In the afternoon the
steam-launch and 4 boats were got overboard, into which
100 passengers were stowed, and towed to the head of the
bay, where is situated the prosperous and pretty town of
Naniamo, which has sprung into existence in consequence
of the coal mines. A prospector, named Dunsmuir, dis
covered this coal, and purchased the whole district for a
small sum. Now the income is enormous, as the demand
for Pacific steamers alone is very large. We spent a
pleasant hour in viewing the churches, post-office — " V.R."
— and shops. Then the procession of boats was formed,
and we returned to the ship for dinner. Some time
early this morning we sailed again, passing through many
pretty and narrow straits, and arrived about 10 o'clock at
Victoria, the capital of Vancouver. Here, as far as we
were concerned, ended the trip to Alaska, with many good
byes and assurances of friendship, and invitations to call
at various cities en route.

XIV.
CANADA.

CHAPTER XIV.
CANADA.
WE are well pleased to have seen Alaska,; for it is
different from any other place our wanderings
have led us to. We passed through hundreds of miles of
uninhabited country, and sailed in a large ship over 3,000
miles in salt water, nearly always having land visible on
both sides ; coming face to face with tribes of Indians, of
whose exploits in hunting and fishing, as well as scalping
white men, we have often read ; and meeting also the
prospector, a wonderful character, who faces all kinds of
dangers in his search for gold. I must not forget to mention
the candle-fish, so full of oil that it is dried and used, as
its name indicates, by burning to give light. Last, and not
least, we have seen 700 miles of British Columbia, which
has a great future.
June 1 7th, Friday, Victoria, Vancouver Island. — We landed
from the s.s. Queen, and took up our quarters at the
" Driard House," a large hotel, in a transition state to a
larger. Engaging a carriage, we had a drive through all the
suburbs, and were perfectly amazed at the number of fine

298 Canada.

villas, entirely built in the English fashion, with well-kept
gardens, one place reminding us very much of Chislehurst
Common. Dunsmuir Castle, built by Mr. Dunsmuir, the
owner of the New Westminster Collieries, is a grand stone
castle with towers, and large park.
The public park is splendid, being laid out with much
taste, and commanding fine views.
The climate is said to be perfect, and, judging from the
flowers and fruits, as well as the wild flora, the report
must be true.
This city of Victoria, Vancouver Island, is thoroughly
English in a way, the inhabitants suppressing Americanisms.
It is now in the Dominion of Canada, but has its own par
liament, sitting in the new Senate House, built in the
Jubilee Year, and surrounded by a pretty park.
Vancouver Island is larger than England, and the people
have an idea that it must become one of the important
places of the world, as it has any quantity of coal, iron,
gold, silver, copper, lead, and quicksilver, also fine beds of
clay, either for bricks or pottery, and an unlimited supply
of timber.
The city seems in a great state of prosperity, building, of
both houses'and manufactories, going on all over the place ;
and there are no beggars, work being offered to all comers.
A creek runs through the middle of the town for several
miles, which is very pretty, with gardens and boathouses in
many places, giving amusement and healthy exercise to the
inhabitants, who show their appreciation of such pleasures
by the good use they make of them.
June 18th, Saturday. — After enjoying a good rest in a
bed in a large room (quite a change from a small cabin),
an electric tram ride took us 4 miles to the village of
Esquimalt, on the banks of a creek. It is very beautiful, and

Victoria, British Columbia.

Canada. 301
is Her Majesty's Naval Depot for the Pacific and Behring
Straits. Only one gunboat was in the creek, all the rest
being out cruising. There is a dry dock, with storehouses
and other buildings, cricket and lawn tennis grounds, etc.,
and piles of shells, also some large guns, which, being
cracked, were waiting for shipment to England.
We met a good man who has been out here thirty
years, and remembered when the place was a station of
the Hudson Bay Company, and had only about 50 houses.
The old fellow seemed delighted to recount his adventures,
which were as exciting as the " Arabian Nights Entertain
ments." He related many of them to us, from being taken
prisoner in Alaska by the Chilcat Indians, and the mode
of escape, to having the accumulations of a lifetime
burnt in one night, the value of them being $70,000. We
visited his museum of Indian curios, containing many
wonderful things, some of which are going to the World's
Fair at Chicago, and others to the British Museum. This
worthy rejoices in the name of John J. Hart, and is a
cockney. With regret we leave Victoria at midnight, by the Cana
dian-Pacific steamboat, for Vancouver, feeling that another
day or two could have been spent with pleasure and profit
in this most delightful place. Unfortunately, however, there
was not another boat till the Tuesday following.
June lgth, Sunday.— -We turned out soon after 5 to
enjoy the balmy air of a splendid morning, and view
the delightful surroundings of islands covered with trees
and sub-tropical foliage, some inhabited, others without
a trace of life ; and in the background the Columbian
and Olympian Mountains, covered with eternal snow, and
high peaks, so perpendicular as to give an effect of black
pillars supporting the sky.

302 Canada.

About 7.30 we sailed into a well-wooded creek, and
then rounded a turn, and Vancouver was disclosed, with
its fleet of ships, including the Empress oj Japan, which
had arrived the day before from Yokohama, crowded
with passengers and freight.
This place is the baby of the Canadian-Pacific Railway,
and has sprung up in something over 5 years ; 6 years,
all but a week exactly before our arrival, a great bush fire
burnt up the whole place, only one house escaping, the
inhabitants having to take refuge in and on the water.
If you walk about the town you are tempted to say
that this is a fable, a real Munchausen, or a wonder equal to
the building of the walls round Syracuse — 26 miles in 6
days — for there are fine wide streets, with substantial
buildings, electric trams, which go every 5 minutes, and
churches in numbers, with spires or towers, and fine east
windows. There are about 20 hotels, but of course not all
equal to the hotel "Vancouver," to which a little addition
of 60 more bedrooms is in the process of building.
We went to Christ Church, and the clergyman paid us •
the compliment of commending English Sundays, in con
trast to Sundays in Vancouver, where people go. picnics,
and have fishing and shooting parties, carrying their fishing
rods and guns through the streets with perfect composure.
After church we had a walk, and admired the fine villas,
with well-kept gardens, and quite a flower show of roses.
Here the electric tram is a fine institution, being circular
— that is, it goes round and round, covering some 6 miles of
town, for 10 cents, or halfway for 5 cents. From the upper
part there is a splendid view, which reminds one of the
Tyrol towns, with their mountainous surroundings.
The more we see, the more we wonder at this 6-year-
old town.

Vancouver, British Columbia.

Canada. 305

June 20th, Monday. — Such a glorious morning of beauty,
sunshine, and cloudless sky.
A mile and a half from the hotel "Vancouver" is the
Columbian National Park, called the Stanley Park, covering
many miles of ground, on the westerly headland of the
Sound. An excellent road, keeping close to the beach,
9 miles in length, has been made, with seats at intervals,
the forest remaining in its pristine beauty, with monarchs
of pine trees growing. At one place is a signboard, " To
the big Trees." Here we found a collection something
like the Mariposa Park trees, with circumferences from 60
to 80 feet, with a corresponding height.
Wild raspberries were a great attraction, being ripe, and
about three times the size of our fruit. They are salmon
colour. The water is splendid, with an unlimited supply coming
20 miles from the mountains.
We paid a visit to the National Bank of British
Columbia, a substantial stone building, with the inside
fittings equal to any that we have seen in our experience
of banks.
At 2 o'clock we started for our first journey on the
Canadian-Pacific, the most celebrated railway in the world.
The station has not any pretensions to vie with our
London monsters, but will no doubt increase with the
traffic. The train consisted of 6 carriages of the Pullman
class, an observation car, a luggage van, and a powerful
engine. The first part of the way was along the banks
of the Sound until reaching the celebrated Fraser River,
noted in former days for exploits with Indians, and now
for salmon. There are a number of fishing stations here,
and extensive canneries, where salmon are tinned and
sent all over the world. 20

306 Canada.

We followed this river for miles, shut in by perpendicular
rocks, which have been cut for the single line of rails,
varying this by sometimes cutting off corners by tunnels,
or being perched on stick bridges, which affected the
nerves of some people, who felt that Providence was being
tempted. The views were splendid, both of snow moun
tains — especially Mount Baker, an isolated cone, 13,000
feet above the railway — and of rivers running into the
Fraser- Harrison River, swelling this mighty torrent of water
confined in its rocky bed, until its fury in some places
seemed as if it would overpower everything. Bedtime
came, and still we travelled by Fraser River.
Life in the cars is quite an American institution, not
only for the purpose of travelling, but also for pleasure
parties. A car can be engaged for a day, a week, or a
month, and is provided with a cook, and two black
servants. The hirer can either provide his own food, or the
company will do so for him, at so much per day. The
car can be taken anywhere, either in the States or Canada,
and stop wherever there is a siding until another train
picks it up.
We stopped for dinner at a place called North Bend, and
about 10 o'clock the drawing-room car underwent a change
ike the scenes in a pantomime, and became a sleeper. We
had tickets for a section — that is, a lower and upper berth,
screened from public gaze by a curtain. Into this berth
you creep, and a little more pantomime goes on in the
shape of undressing, which is not easy to perform on your
back. June 21st, Tuesday. — The longest day.
We were up before 6 after a good sleep, to see the
Shuswap Lakes, 4 in number, which are at the summit of
this part of the line, occupying, with immense spruce trees,

Canada. 307

the entire width of the mountain-surrounded plain, and
forcing the railway to travel round all their arms. These
mirror lakes are very beautiful, reflecting the snow-clad
mountains, their surfaces being only disturbed by numbers
of wild geese and ducks.
Soon after 7 we took on a dining car, where break
fast was served, hot, well cooked, and in every way first
class, with a printed menu, of which the following is a
copy : — MENU. BREAKFAST.
Fruii. Apricots, cherries, apples, oranges.
Oatmeal porridge and cream.
Coffee, English breakfast-tea, chocolate.
Hot rolls, dry toast, dipped toast, Boston brown bread.
Graham bread, cream toast.
Baked salmon.
Sirloin-steak— plain, or with mushrooms.
Mutton-chops — plain, or with tomato sauce.
Veal-cutlets.
Sugar-cured ham.
Liver and bacon.
Eggs and omelettes.
Girdle cakes, with Maple syrup.
Potatoes, fried and baked.
Jam and marmalade.
Price 75 cents (about 3 shillings).
All of the above could be indulged in, or as much as a
gourmet might choose.
Returning after a well-discussed breakfast, we found that
the sleeping car had undergone another transformation,
and had changed back to a drawing-room again.
After leaving these lakes we crossed the Columbia River,
which, although 500 miles above Portland-Oregon, is of
no mean pretensions, being quite equal to the Thames at
London Bridge, and navigable, having a regular service
of steamers from Revelstoke, an important town situated

308 Canada.

in the midst of a large mining district. Here we remained
for a quarter of an hour, and left the dining car in exchange
for an " observation " car, which is made for the purpose of
seeing the scenery.
Going on again, we approached the base of the Selkirks
through a narrow valley, which became a gorge with a
rushing river. Here the passengers left the cars, and went
on to a platform erected for the purpose of seeing the
maddened waters rush between two rocks, and admiring the
double summit of the mountain called Mackenzie- Tilley,
with its glaciers and snow-covered tops. From this plat
form one looks down about 300 feet of perpendicular rocks,
and most people seemed to turn away with awe in their
faces at seeing this immense rush of waters. Resuming
our journey, we soon commenced the ascent to the " Selkirk
summit," the most difficult and costly work in this part of
the line ; for at the head of the valley is a ridge of mountains
over 4,000 feet high, and over the top of this the railway
has to climb in loops, first on one side of the mountains,
and then on the other, crossing on tressel bridges of a
giddy height, looking in the distance as if built of lucifer
matches. It was most interesting and curious, for as the
train ascended we could see the various loops over which
the train had passed. Of course the speed was slow, but
the time soon passed in admiring the wonderful views, and
speculating where we should go next. At length we
arrived at Glacier Station, our stopping place for 24 hours,
where there is an hotel, quite like a Swiss one in ap
pearance, at the foot of the Glacier. A day's rest from the
cars is grateful ; for although there is every luxury, even to
a bath, the continual shaking and looking out produce
fatigue. After dinner we had a walk to see the various sights of

Canada. 309

this wonderful place in the snow and glaciers, and sur
rounded by the Selkirks. Sir Donald is the highest, and is
directly in front of the windows of the hotel, forming one
side of the Glacier. We visited the snowsheds which
protect the line in winter, and in the summer form a fine
promenade, to view the valley below. These sheds are
built with huge timbers, to carry the weight of the
avalanches which are continually falling.
The walk on the line gave us an opportunity of examin
ing the various kinds of work, which is far from being in
accordance with our ideas of even second-rate excellence,
the bridges being of light timber, and very costly to keep
in order, and the rails very light, and without chairs, only
being pinned. Remarking upon this, we were informed
that reconstruction is gradually going on.
In front of this pretty place are fine fountains, supplied
with water through a pipe direct from the glacier.
June 22nd, Wednesday. — The magnificent weather of a
fine June morning and the invigorating mountain air make
us feel like giants refreshed.
We seem quite enclosed in a circle of mountains with
their hoary peaks, but, by walking a mile, a view down the
deep valley may be had, where, far below, the railway can
be traced for many miles, running from the base of the
mountains with its series of curves and loops, doubling
upon itself again and again.
This is one of the most remarkable places on the earth,
and can be classed with the Leon Valley, Norway, the
Cirque de Gavarne, Pyrenees, Otiera Gorge, New Zealand,
and Yosemite Valley, California, where nature has been
convulsed by ice or earthquakes, and Alaska with its icy
devastations. It has been said and written that the
Selkirk Glacier is larger than the whole of the Swiss glaciers

310 Canada.

put together. We were not inclined to believe this report,
having seen both ; but in any case, there is enough ice here
to supply London for ages to come.
After lunch the train of 5 cars, with a huge engine,
took us on another journey through this wonderful country.
The first part was down the side of a mountain gorge with
a river 1,000 feet below and snow-covered mountains above,
all varying in shape and height, and in such numbers that,
like the Irishman with an enormous family, " names for all
of them were not required, for no one could remember
them." Ascending again we came to Rogers' Pass, named
after Major A. B. Rogers, by whose adventurous energy it
was discovered in 1883, previous to which date no human
foot had penetrated to the summit of this great central
range. The Pass lies between two lines of high snow-clad peaks.
Those on the north side form a prodigious amphitheatre,
under whose parapet, 7,000 or 8,000 feet above the valley,
half-a-dozen glaciers may be seen at once, and so near
that their shining blue fissures are distinctly visible. The
Hermit, Macdonald, and also Sir Donald, form the chief
attractions. We passed between the two former through
a narrow split in the rocks, caused by some convulsion
in nature, and barely sufficiently wide for the railway.
Between these two enormous precipices, about 6,000 feet
high, there are bare rocks, without a sign of vegetation.
Crossing mountain torrents on tressel bridges caused some
excitement of nerve feeling, one especially, which is 295
feet above the water, and said to be the highest in the
world. Regaining the valley, we came again to the banks
of our old friend the Columbia River, which had wound
round the feet of the Selkirks for about 400 miles.
Passing through Bear Creek and Six Mile Creek, with

Canada. 311
the river in view, we came to Donald, an important place,
being the headquarters of a section of the railway, with
workshops, storehouses, etc. The servants, conductors, and
engine-drivers changed, also the time one hour, from 1 5 hrs.
20mins. to 16 hrs. 2omins., the 24-hour system of clocks
being used all through this line.
A steamer starts from this place once a week up the
Columbia to the lakes at the head of the river 100 miles
distant, calling at many mining villages, where gold and
silver are found in great quantities. From these lakes are
roads and trails through Findlay Creek, and to the
Kootenay Valley.
Soon after leaving Donald we entered the Kicking
Horse Canon, through which rushes the Beaverfoot
River, the mountain sides becoming vertical, rising straight
up for thousands of feet within a stone's throw from
wall to wall. Through this vast chasm go the river
and railway, the latter crossing from side to side, and
running along ledges cut out of the solid wall, twisting
and turning in every direction, and frequently plunging
through projecting angles of rock which seem to close
the way. The towering cliffs almost shut out the sunlight,
and the roar of the river and train, increased by the
echoing rocks, produce a noise never to be forgotten.
The only signal for starting is the cry of " All aboard ? "
so one has to be on the qui vive.
The form of the train was quite changed, one engine
being in front, one in the middle, and another at the
back, to distribute the weight of these monster pieces
of machinery, on account of the tressel bridges. The
distance to the next station, 10 miles away, has a gradient
of 1,140 feet, equal to 1 in 46 for the whole distance,
and we were informed that part of the way it is 1 in 30.

3 1 2 Canada.

The line is along the edge of a mountain for some distance,
with the Kicking Horse River far below. The scenery is
sublime and almost terrible. Looking to the north, one of
the grandest mountain valleys in the world stretches to an
unknown distance, with large white glacier-bound peaks on
either side, on the left Mount Stephen, 8,000 feet above the
valley, and opposite, Cathedral Mount, with its immense
glacier. Arriving at Hector Station, we passed a most beautiful
lake with reflections of the surrounding mountains. Here
our extra engine power was removed, and the train
prepared for a start down the other side of the mountain.
This is said to be the most stupendous railway work
in the world, and much the most difficult in this Canadian-
Pacific undertaking. The 10 miles were accomplished in
33 minutes, with 8 cars, each 50 feet long, and 2 luggage
cars. To see the whole train, and the incline, it looked
impossible for such a railway performance.
Continuing through wild mountainous country, we
arrived at Banff, our destination, about 22 o'clock, and
were glad to rest after seeing so much.
June 23rd, Thursday. — A pouring wet day until 5 o'clock,
with snow and wind, confined us to the " Canadian-Pacific
Hotel." This is heated with hot-water pipes, but has in
the hall a huge log fire, which was most attractive.
However, we found our boxes were more so, requiring,
as they did, a thorough turn out.
At 5 o'clock the clouds rolled up, like the drop-scene
in a theatre, and disclosed one of the finest mountain
panoramas it is possible to conceive. This hotel is built
upon the knoll of a hill overhanging the river, and in
the centre of a plateau entirely surrounded by snow-clad
mountains. The plateau is 4,500 feet above the sea

Canada. 3 1 3

level, and the snow commences very little above the
valley. Whichever window we looked out of we saw a
huge mountain covered with snow, and, as it was fresh
that day, the whiteness was remarkable, except where
it was tinged with the rosy colour of the setting sun.
Such was the wonderful beauty of this scene that it
made one ask whether it was reality, or only the illusion
of a distorted mind.
June 24th, Friday. — A magnificent morning, with cloud
less sky, and the mountains standing out in all their
grandeur. After breakfast we walked 3 miles uphill to
" Grand View " and the hot springs, and there found a
nice little hotel with an unmatched prospect and a most
polite proprietor, who invited us to see the wonders of
the place. Adjoining the house is a natural hot spring
of sulphur water, issuing from the rock, and up 72 steps
is the Sanitorium. These steps present quite a comical
appearance, for affixed to the banisters are a number
of crutches, to each of which is fastened a piece of wood
bearing an inscription. We noted two or three as follows :
" The man who used these crutches was cured of sciatica
in six weeks." " Peter Mackenzie went home and left his
crutches behind, being cured of lumbago in two weeks."
" These crutches were left by a man who was cured of
gout in three weeks," and so on.
After resting and enjoying the view we returned to
lunch, and then started in a carriage for a lake 9 miles
distant. It is called " Minniewonka," or the Devil Lake,
and is 18 miles long.
Oh arriving at the lake we found it surrounded with
snow-clad mountains, and also saw a comfortable little
hotel. There were plenty of boats for fishing, and a
small steam launch with steam up. We saw two trout

314 Canada.

that had been caught in the morning. One weighed 9,
and the other 5 pounds. They were very much like
those found in the Norwegian lakes.
The catcher of these fish said that there were many
in the lake over 30 pounds, and that he frequently caught
such fish, but even that did not tempt us to try our
hands, as we did not wish to lose our prestige as fishermen.
The sun was bright and hot, and the lake like a mirror,
so we preferred to admire the reflections, and then quietly
return to Banff.
June 2%th, Saturday. — Another brilliant morning, with
the mountains illuminated to perfection, and the whole
panorama glorious, as viewed from, the six sides of this
hotel, which is designed with balconies on each side,
commanding views of these wonderful mountains.
After breakfast we strolled to the bridge over the
Bow, from which wonderful views are seen, also mirror
effects, reflecting the mountains and trees.
A walk near the river for half an hour brought us
to the lower sulphur springs and the cave pool. In a
pretty cottage we found' the caretaker and his wife, and
soon learnt that he came from Bayswater, London, where
he had been a coachman to a gentleman. A greater
contrast with regard to any one's position in life could
not well be imagined ; in London, living in Mews, probably
in a back street with little fresh air, then to be located
here without a neighbour for 2 miles, and surrounded
with snow mountains and rivers. The sulphur spring is
just like the New Zealand geyser, on a milder scale, the
water springing from the bottom of a pool about 30 feet
in diameter in a cave, at a temperature of about 8oc,
whereas in New Zealand the temperature is 212° This
place is the property of the Government, and reserved for

Canada. 3 1 5
the use of invalids, or others who wish for sulphur water.
The charge for a bath is 35 cents, but you may drink as
much as you wish free. We only tried the drinking, and
although it was warm, it was grateful after our walk.
The six or seven years this place has been known is
too little time to fill up the catalogue of names, and
more especially as the Government has set aside 21
square miles for a National Park, providing mountains
to climb until the end of time, many of which have never
had a human foot on the top, and a retreat where hard-
worked brains may admire the wonders of Nature, and
have any amount of both pure and sulphur water, and
fresh air. It is said that thunderstorms and snakes are
not known at this altitude, 1,000 feet higher than Ben
Nevis. June 26th, Sunday. — A brilliant day in this wonderful
valley, where there is much more to be seen than a
passer through can possibly pretend to compass.
Instead of going to bed we prepared to start at 10
o'clock for a ride of 2 nights and 2 days, which will
not afford any great amusement.
About 9 o'clock there was a good sunset effect. The
sun had left the valley, a sombre light remaining, but
the mountains, with their snowy ridges, were illuminated
with the most brilliant tints and the many-coloured rays
of the departing day. As a telegram announced that
the train was an hour late, we enjoyed the time in looking
at the view with the moon shining on the rivers.
June 27th, Monday. — We awoke to find the mountains
all gone, and the train plodding over a vast plain, and
having something of the effect of being on a ship in
mid ocean, the grey-looking grass meeting the horizon
in a purple mist. This vast expanse is 200 miles square,

Ii6

Canada.

without either bush or tree, and as flat as a billiard
table, being quite uninhabited except for railway purposes.
Soon after 10 we came to the improving town of
Medicine Hat, on the banks of the fine river South
Saskatchewan, which is crossed by a stout bridge. A
large number of Indians, mostly of the Blackfeet tribe,
inhabit this district, and on pulling up at the station there
were many of these interesting and doomed people, dressed
in wild-looking and dirty costumes, and their ugly faces

Indians.

covered with paint. The children had yellow ; we presume
that " yell oh ! " was more suitable to their tender age.
At the end of the platform was a wooden cage containing
two bears, and hung on the cage is a neat frame with the
following inscription : —
" This grizzly bear is the property of the Medicine Hat
General Hospital, and is on exhibition for the benefit of
that Institution. Any donation made by the travelling
public in the box, or otherwise, will be fully appreciated."
The country gradually improved ; and although one could

Winnipeg (Canada),

Canada. 319
not say that cattle could be seen upon a thousand hills,
at all events it would be correct to say that " thousands of
cattle were in the plains," for some of the ranches, both for
cattle and horses, were immense, miles and miles in extent,
with here and there a farmstead.
We came to a station called Dunmore, near which are
most extensive coal mines, supplying thousands of miles
with fuel in the absence of wood. At 10 o'clock we reached
Moosegaw, a lively little place, where there were a number
of people on the platform seeing off a lot of girls from a
boarding school, whom we dropped at various stations on
the road.
Mosquitoes were plentiful, and we had a slaughtering
before retiring to bed.
June 28th, Tuesday. — Again a splendid morning. We
continued our journey through another kind of country,
where the land is used for corn-growing, as is evidenced
by the number of " grain-elevators " and flour mills by the
side of the railway. We passed through one celebrated
farm, known as the Bell Farm. It is 100 miles square, with
wheat fields 4 miles square. These are ploughed in 4
mile furrows, and a man and horses go 3 times back
wards and forwards in a day, thus covering 24 miles. As
well as these cornfields there are numbers of cattle and
horses, giving the country an appearance of wealth.
We arrived in Winnipeg at 4 o'clock, and took up our
quarters at the " Queen's Hotel," a large and comfortable
place, with all the newest inventions and latest notions.
The main street is very wide, and 2\ miles long, with
double tram lines, and splendid buildings— banks, shops,
hotels, wholesale warehouses, etc.
Halfway along is a large square containing the City
Hall in which are the courts and offices for the state of

320 Canada.

Manitoba, and the City Council and Municipal Offices.
This building is of terra-cotta brick with stone facings, and
a spire, and is altogether a fine specimen of architecture.
On the other side of the square is a massive stone building
erected for the purpose of a covered market.
June 2gth, Wednesday. — At 1 1 o'clock we again started
for another railway trip, and soon came to the Red River
Valley, celebrated for its corn-growing. The soil looks
quite black, and is said never to require any refreshment
beyond turning over.
About 2 o'clock a hungry-looking mortal came into the
carriage, and announced that as we were going into the
U.S.A., he wished to examine our small luggage first.
When this was completed, and nothing found to help
Mr. M'Kinley, he invited us to visit the luggage van, or, as
it is called here, the baggage car.
June 30th, Thursday. — Eating and sleeping in the train
we arrived at the city of " Flouropolis," now known as
Minneapolis, at 6 in the morning. After a good breakfast
at the railway station, we started upon a tour of inspection,
and as usual got into a tram, and were soon surprised
to find such a beautiful place, immensely wide streets, and
roads with avenues of trees leading through small parks,
and past handsome and well-kept villas, with such grass
that it made one covet the secret or climate. Then the
roses in full bloom, as well as other flowers, called to mind
an improvement upon Cheltenham or Leamington.
The next ride was to some lakes on high ground, the
first one being Lake Harriet, a beautiful round piece of
water about 4 miles in circumference, the banks covered
with trees 'and studded with villas, and with a fine drive
round the lake, quite a place you see described, but never
expect to meet the reality. Lake Calhoren was very

Canada. 321

similar. On a hill between the two is Lake Wood Cemetery,
a delightful and poetic place to leave one's remains covered
with a cold stone.
Regaining the centre of the town or city, we admired the
shops and fine buildings, notably the West Hotel, and in
the same street the Masonic Temple, Free Library, Club
House, etc. We then conceived the idea of a visit to the
city of St. Paul, 6 or 7 mile's distant, and took our seats in
the electric tram, called Interburan, paying 10 cents each
for the ride.
We crossed the Mississippi, and had our first view of the
giant river which divides these two cities. They might be
one, if it were not for the river, as there are houses, schools,
hospitals, etc., all the way along.
St. Paul's is an older place, consequently the streets
are narrower, and the buildings not so fine, with the ex
ception of the City Hall, which is quite as fine as the Leeds
Town Hall. We had a walk through the building, and
found lifts to take us to any part. The free library in
the same building seemed to be well patronised, both for
taking books away, as well as reading in the room.
St. Paul's is on a hill 200 feet above the Mississippi,
which skirts half the town. There are several bridges to
the hills opposite. We crossed one of these, and had fine
views. We then dined at a restaurant, where the waiter
indicated to us another route by which to return to
Minneapolis, passing some fine mansions. We also saw
the racecourse belonging to the twin cities. The grand
stand is a wonderful building, with a spire in the centre,
and as large as those at Epsom, Doncaster, and half a
dozen others rolled into one. We finished our peregrina
tions by visiting the Minnehaha Falls, a very pretty place,
with a deep gorge, and a well-laid-out park for the use of
21

322 Canada.

the people. W7e had some tea, and took our places in a
sleeper bound for Chicago, well tired out. Our journey
was most interesting as long as the light lasted, first a
fine sunset, and then moonlight reflections on the Missis
sippi. The line runs along its banks for over 200 miles,
the river continually increasing in size, until it is more
like a long lake than a river, being in some places 5 miles
wide. July 1st, Friday. — We arrived in Chicago at 9 o'clock,
after a comfortable night, having become by this time
used to a railway life, as we had slept in sleepers four
nights out of five that week.
Securing a room at the huge " Auditorium Hotel," facing
Lake Michigan, we found, after ascending in one of the lifts,
the said room, number 828, on the eighth floor, with a
lake view, and looking down the promenade for miles.
Unfortunately the people, horses, and carriages looked
small from this height, and as for the lake, it does not look
like a lake at all, but a sea. There are breakwaters with
lighthouses, and waves dashing over, as well as large
steamers, ships, and steamtugs, and any quantity of other
craft. It was here where Herbert Ingram, M.P. for Boston,
England, and originator of the Illustrated London News,
was shipwrecked and drowned.
We had to ring the bell to inquire about the bed, such
a bell, with a sound disc, on which is printed all sorts of
wants, from ice-water to a doctor, but nothing about a
bed. We waited the issue until the bell-boy came — a
m'gger! °f course — and, in answer to our inquiry, pulled
down the wardrobe, when out came the bed with two legs,
the mirror, which had reflected our human forms divine,
going underneath, so it was a case of sleeping' upon mirrors.
So much for Yankee ingenuity.

Canada. 323
The dining-room occupies, with kitchens, the upper floor,
and is a splendid hall with a domed roof and coloured
glass. A finer room could not be desired, with views over
the lake, plenty of fresh air, and not any smells of cooking.
Although this room is in the tenth storey, the floor is of
marble, and the staircases of the same material, or iron —
as the hotel is advertised — fireproof.
Chicago claims to be the second white-man city in the
world, and after what we have seen to-day we are quite
prepared to accept the assertion. Everything seems so
immense — streets said to be twenty miles long, and build
ings fifteen to twenty-seven storeys high, — the Masonic,
the Venetian, etc. — to say nothing of the manufactories
and provision dealers, and the go-ahead style of the
people. The science of sightseeing is to visit everything, and
then regret what you do not admire ; so we obtained an
order, through the politeness of the Armour Canning Co.,
to visit the stockyards, and their large establishment,
which sounds simple enough : to transpose our bodies about
eight miles to the southern portion of the city ; but any
attempt at a full description of what we saw is so difficult,
that we must be content to give a simple outline.
The stockyards are where cattle and pigs arrive every
day from the West. They are sent by farmers on consign
ment to "commission men," who negotiate their sale.
Immediately upon arrival they are fed and supplied with
fresh water.
The principal buyers are four houses, who have earned
the soubriquet of the " Big Four," who slaughter and sell to
purveyors of meat (for the name butcher is quite ignored),
or prepare " tin meat " of all descriptions, such as can be
found in most parts of the world. The A onour Canning Co.

J24 Canada.

Is the best known in England, where its name can be
seen in most grocers' shops.
The numbers of cattle and pigs are the most startling,
and each day are quoted in English newspapers, attracting
little attention except to those interested. The numbers
range daily from eight to fifteen thousand splendid-looking
bullocks, and from ten to twenty thousand pigs, all black
when alive. The arrivals are in the morning, and before
four in the afternoon the whole are converted into beef
and pork.
As pork concerns Christians more than Jews, we will
describe piggy's end first.
The poor piggies, in batches of one hundred, were driven
up an inclined plane to the first storey — we going by
another route to the place of execution, and directed to
take a stand' — from which we saw two men with leather
boots and breeches among the pigs, placing a chain noose
on the hind leg, which hauled the pig (by steam) over a
wooden partition so quickly, there was not time for a
" scream " before another man inserted a long knife, and
the bleeding pig travelled on a few yards, was dropped
into a long trough of boiling water, and pushed to the
end of the trough, where it was thrown out by machinery
on to a board, when another man put a double hook
through its nose, fast to a chain, which pulled the dead pig
into a machine with numbers of quickly revolving wheels
and brushes, scraping the black pig into a white one in
a few seconds. Emerging from the machine, it travelled
along a counter, where four men made a post-mortem,
sending the " inwards " to other men who prepare sausage
skins, hearts, livers, etc., etc.
The carcase was passed on to other men, who hung it
up, and then split it down the back, each half of poor

Canada. 325
piggy travelling by itself to the cool chamber to remain
until the next day, when it would be examined by the
Government inspector, and if sound, passed, to be after
wards cut up into loins, legs, etc., and packed into zinc
cases, which are again packed in wooden boxes with ice,
and then sent to the purveyors of meat, either in Chicago
or other towns, even as far as New York.
For a moment think that one set of men and machinery
dispose of a hundred large live pigs about every fifteen
minutes, and there are many duplicates of these.
Now for the bullocks, and their end. Fifty are released
from a pen where they have been quietly feeding, and are
then driven to an inclined plane, where is standing a sedate-
looking handsome bullock, wearing a leather head dress,
and his business is to be a " Judas," and betray his brethren
into following him into a long passage, where he walks
through, but the followers are stopped by divisions being
dropped down, inclosing two or three in each place, when
they are immediately " poleaxed," and thrown out as
phyxiated on to the floor. Then chains are placed on the
hind legs, and the carcase hauled up by machinery, the
blood let out, the skin removed, the " inwards " disposed of,
and the back divided, the whole occupying about seven
minutes, when the carcase starts on its journey to a cold
store. This store is a wonderful sight to see, seven or eight
thousand half bullocks hanging up in rows, all fine beef.
The appliances are scientific, and every operation is carried
out with such rapidity, that there is not time to get up
sympathy with any animal, all these operations being carried
out with great cleanliness, precision, and order, so that the
repulsiveness of witnessing such an amount of extinguishing
animal life is greatly removed.
A visit to the World's Fair park has given us a good idea

326 Canada.

o

of what the exhibition will be in size ; but after hearing so
much from American people as to its vastness, and having
seen Paris, London, etc., we must confess to some dis
appointment, perhaps through expecting too much. The
buildings are large, with imposing architecture, and for the
most part designed for special purposes.
The frontage of the park is on the lake, which has piers, .
lighthouses, and some imitation ironclads.
About eight miles north, from the centre of the city, is
Lincoln Park. On the banks of the lake there are miles
of well-wooded drives, also a large equestrian statue of
General Grant, and a monument to commemorate a battle
with Indians, and an excellent collection of wild animals and
birds. Wherever you go there are parks — a wise provision
for this large city, which is 24I miles from north to south,
and 14^ from east to west.
Libby's Prison is interesting to Americans. It was
removed from Richmond, Virginia, after having played an
important part in the war between North and South.
Whether, like the " Virgin's house " at Loretto, it came on
wings as it now stands, is not stated, it being only notified
" Libby's Prison, removed from Richmond, V." It is now
used as a museum, containing all sorts of war implements
and pictures of various engagements.
We unfortunately came here just before July 4th, which
prevented our visiting many manufactories- — to wit, Pullman's
Car Works — for every place is closed on the celebration of
American Independence.
The longer your stay the more impressive is the great
ness of the place, everything being on such a large scale.
Even doctors go in for quantities. In one building eighty-
eight doctors and dentists have their offices, observing
office hours. There is a proverb as old as the hills,

Canada.

327

" Doctors differ " ; consequently in this building there must
be many differences, with the advantage of being able to
call in the dentist, to " extract " the points in difference,
and " stop " the contentions.
July $th, Tuesday— Vie left Chicago by the afternoon
express, and stopped at Pullman Town, a most wonderful-
looking place, much like a college, with all the grounds laid
down in grass, and carpet beddings, plants and flowers,
churches, chapels, schools, public free library, shops, and
semi-detached houses of red brick, with terra-cotta embel
lishments, etc.
About 12 o'clock we arrived at Detroit, where the whole
train, sleepers, human and otherwise, were shipped on a
ferry steamer, and conveyed across the straits to Windsor
in Canada. Being awake, we saw the Custom officers
come on board and examine the train.
About 4.30 all the Niagara passengers got up ; and at
5 o'clock the train stopped in full view of the falls, fifteen
minutes being allowed to get your fill of the view. The
effect was quite startling in so suddenly coming upon this
world's wonder, which everybody is familiar with, through
books and pictures, and the first-rate panorama lately
exhibited in London. All these are like seeing a dead
man ; and the reality is the man with his life, his soul, his
action, making an impression on your mind as voluminous
as the waters.
The fifteen minutes in the cool grey morning light passed
like five, yet quite sufficient to produce its effect, and make
you feel that every moment must be used in compassing
the vastness of the scene. In 5 minutes the train stopped
again, and our journey was ended by a short ride in the
omnibus, transferring us to Clifton House, a noble structure,
placed in front of the falls on the Canada side.

328 Canada.

We saw them under most favourable' circumstances, a
clear sky with bright sunshine, and not any wind to operate
upon the large extra quantity of water coming ffom the
much-flooded rivers and lakes, consequent upon a fort
night's rain.
The first, or American Fall, is quite brown, while the
middle, or Horseshoe Fall, is of fine emerald green, and
the Canadian fall is brown, producing the effect of a fine
emerald green in a garnet setting.
The ever-changing lights during the day had given fresh
interest. This evening the setting sun gave wonderful
colours, and produced on the spray volumes of prismatic
effects. One, most striking, was a. rainbow, from the centre
of the Horseshoe to the nearly full moon. Gradually the
colour died out, leaving the moon in full possession, to
convert from golden hues into pure silver ones this vast
expanse of troubled waters. " Unstable as water, thou
shalt not excel," hardly obtains here.
After breakfast we chartered a carriage to visit the
various points, of interest, first coming to the Suspension
Bridge connecting V.R. with U.S.A., and, paying the 'toll,
went to the centre, from which there is a wonderful view,
both of the falls and the rapids. Entering the national
park — both countries, having purchased all the property
surrounding the falls, and converted it into public parks,
have done a good work, for formerly all kinds of exactions
were practised at vantage points, — we wended our way to
America Falls, where, at the point protected by rails, you
can stand on the very edge and look down, also look up
the rapids as the water comes tearing along.
Wending our way by the side of these rapids, we came
to a suspension bridge, which took us to Goat Island,
dividing the river, and forming two falls. Here are also

Canada. 329
found vantage points for seeing the Horseshoe Falls and
the rapids rushing towards the brink. The effect was
indescribable. The rapids are a wonderful sight, the water rushing past
in large waves, boiling and surging, about 30 miles an hour,
and the place where Captain Webb finished his earthly
career. How a man could presume to swim such a place
is past comprehension. However, he paid the penalty for
his foolhardy venture.
Again crossing to the Canadian side, we visited the
Queen Victoria Park, in which is a house with a tower
opposite the falls, but the view is little superior to the one
from this, window. Continuing the drive, we crossed
several suspension bridges and various islands, on the side
of the Niagara river, round which the water dashed in a
wonderful way, then ascended a hill, from which there is
a fine view of the river, with its waters rushing to the falls
already white with foam. On this hill is an extraordinary
freak of nature, a burning sulphur spring, with flames hot
enough to consume anything coming in its way. Watts'
lines, with slight alteration, might describe the effect : —
*' I have been there, and still would go,
It is like a little hell below."
Not far from here, and commanding fine views, is a
Roman Catholic convent.
Returning to the hotel, we decided to visit the remaining
sights on foot, as more time would be consumed ; and also
took the advice which " Mr. Middlewick " gave to his son
— " to see everythink."
A small steamer, Maid oj the Mist, specially adapted
for the purpose, makes tours to the Falls, sailing as near
as possible. Presenting ourselves on board, a young man
invited us into the cabin, and dressed us in a full suit of

530 Canada.

" oils," finishing up with a large waterproof cowl, having
an opening for the eyes and mouth. What objects we
looked — something like the pearl divers in the coral sea!
The signal for starting was given, and in a few minutes
we were under the American Falls, sufficiently near to
receive deluges of water ; then went to the Horseshoe,
which required some little time, as the stream was so
strong. The mighty rush of water, blinding spray, and
roar, impressed one with the immensity of this, the largest
fall in the world.
Our next visit was to the Cave of the Winds, where
the following notice is exhibited on the side of the
office : —
" The Cave of the Winds is the only natural opening
behind the great sheet of falling water. It is 150 feet
wide, 100 feet high, and 75 feet in width between the water
and the rock.
" The path through the cave is on the natural rock ; and
after passing through the cave, the visitor is conducted
over bridges and platforms, between and in front of the
central and American falls, thus obtaining views, both
behind and in front, of the great body of falling water.
" No pen can describe the sublimity and grandeur of the
scene, nor tongue can give expression, to the awe-inspiring
sensations produced by this wonderful work of nature.
" It must be seen to be understood and appreciated.
" It is the only place on the globe where rainbows form
an entire circle, sometimes three at once, the visitor passing
through them.
" Experienced guides are in attendance to show visitors
every attention.
" Charge for admission 1 dollar, which includes dress
and guide."

Canada. 331
Reading this twice carefully suggested the question,
—Where could such an opportunity be found in the world,
for 1 dollar, to experience these wonders and excitements,
sublimity and grandeur?
At first we decided not to spend the dollar in what might
be a sell, but the voice of a visitor said : " Can't see any
thing like that ih the living world, I guess ; no sham." Our
minds were made up. The nimble dollar slipped through
the hand on to the counter, demanding a ticket. " No. 9,"
was the reply. Going in search of No. 9, we were soon in
the clutches of a queer-looking old man, who in reply to
the remark, " There is a lady in No. 2," at once replied,
" Git her fit up sharp, as a party is about to start. Now,
hurry up." Then, turning, hurried us into a dressing-box,
with the peremptory order, " Strip off every rag ; I will be
back in a minute." This rather hurt our feelings ; for,
although our clothes were threadbare, rags had not come
yet. The energetic old man returned with woollen pan
taloons, and a jacket, which he adjusted and tied round
the waist with a cord so tightly, that we informed him of
our sex ; then a pair of felt shoes, also tied on with cord ;
a waterproof jacket and cowl of oilskin completed our
toilet. Then came the command, " Hurry up, and go
down the stairway." A nice staircase, circular, with about
250 steps, took us down about 150 feet of perpendicular
cliff on to a landing, where several guys like ourselves were
waiting. Others dropped out, until a dozen were standing.
We ventured to ask if we were waiting for the young lady,
when a good loud Yankee female voice said, " No ; I am
here." This emanated from a form as straight as a poker,
and like a late Emperor — a Bonaparte.
The guide now turned up, no other than the queer-
looking old man, but with a costume. Taking the young

33 2 Canada.
lady by the hand, he descended a flight of wooden steps,
amidst showers of spray, we following, until a rock was
reached in front of the fall, when the guide announced
something which could not be heard, and walked on with
his charge through the thin edge of the fall, where the water
battered us until we were deluged and could hardly breathe.
Probably this was one of the circular rainbows ; for we had
to hold on to the rails, while the water battered our heads,
making our eyes strike fire. Circular rainbows are exciting,
and things " no pen can describe " ; but where the sublimity
came in never occurred to us. Perhaps our minds were
abstracted and unobservant.
Getting behind the falls in the cave, we could see the
mighty rush of water, and feel it too. The thickness of
the wall of water is said to be 12 feet. Certainly some day
light came through it, but before there was much chance
for observations, some of the wind from which the cave
takes its name disturbed the course of the stream, deluging
the dozen admirers with tons of water. To prevent being
washed off the floor we affectionately took hold of hands.
Our stay was short, for a little of this went a long way.
The next performance was getting to another edge of the
fall by holding on to a pole, this being considered the
climax, probably constituting the part which "must be
seen to be understood and appreciated." The rush, bat
tering, and weight of water inspired sensations making you
wish to be somewhere else.
Regaining the platform, and shaking off the water like
dogs, gave an opportunity for inspecting fellow-voyagers,
who all looked like drowned rats. The old guide suggested
we never had such a dollar's worth before. We agreed it
was a cheap bath, having included in one a spray, shower
douche, and waterfall, as well as massage. The next ques-

Canada. 333
tion was what wc thought of it ? Our answer, that it was
like the Marriage Service, finishing up with " wonder and
amazement." This wakened up the young lady, who said,
" You kaan't do a show like that for a dollar, I guess." We
replied, " No ; but could drown you quite dead for nothing,
either dressed or undressed."
The following are official particulars of the Niagara
Falls :—
" The Niagara River, flowing from Lake Erie to Lake
Ontario, is 32 miles long, and the falls are 20 miles from
Lake Erie. The width of the river is 1,294 feet ; depth
below the falls 250 feet ; height of Canadian falls 164 feet,
across 1,881 feet ; height of American falls 150 feet, across
924 feet. Water passing over the falls estimated at over
100,000,000 tons per hour."
On the American side, just under the suspension bridge,
a tunnel is being made through the rocks to the river 2
miles away, to utilise the power for paper-mills, flour-mills,
etc. ; and on the Canadian side a similar arrangement is
being made for grinding electricity, to send away in
accumulators. In a few years there is every probability that the pretty
surroundings of Niagara Falls will be much changed, for
on the American side efforts are being made to utilise the
at present wasted power.
July 7th, Thursday. — We started at 8 o'clock by rail for
Niagara, the original town, on Lake Ontario, 12 miles from
the falls, going through a well-cultivated and very English-
looking country. The train took us to the pier, where we
embarked on a fine steamer, and sailed on the calmest pos
sible lake for Toronto, where we landed soon after 10.30,
and adopted our usual plan of a tram ride. Consulting
a police officer, hef indicated the belt tram, which took us

534 Canada.

round the city, covering a distance of 8 miles, first through
streets of handsome brick buildings, with splendid shops,
banks, insurance offices, post-office, public buildings, wide
streets, well kept ; then through the suburbs, with wide
roads and avenues of trees. The villa residences are par
ticularly fine, having well-kept gardens, some of these going
beyond villas, being palatial residences.
There is a fine park. The Lieutenant-Governor's resi
dence, law-courts, the university, and many other fine
buildings are built in stone. The whole place has an air
of prosperity, and is very English in appearance.
After spending a pleasant day, we embarked on a steamer
for Kingston, sailing all night. The sunset over the lake was
rich in colour, making everything look very pretty. After
supper we retired to our berths, and had a good sleep.
July 8th, Friday. — Arrived at Kingston about 5 o'clock,
and breakfasted at 6. Kingston is a thriving town, with a
population of about 20,000, and has the strongest fortification
in Canada. Fancy being invaded by the Americans, who
would bring a few Chicago fire-extinguishing machines,
and wipe the place out of existence ! None of the places,
either in America or Canada, look to have much fight in
their arrangements.
We sailed away on the finest possible morning for
Thousand Island Lake, which is American territory, and
one of the prettiest combinations of water, rock, trees,
and houses. These 1,000 islands are of all conceivable
sizes — some mere rocks, with a flagstaff bearing the stars
and stripes, while others are of many acres, covered with
fine trees and shrubs, and all that are large enough having
cottages, villas, or mansions, where the wealthy of New
York and other cities retire for the summer, to bask in the
sunshine, to boat, fish, and shoot.

Canada. 2,3,5
This extends for 30 miles, and looks like a fancy picture ;
for these residences seem to fit the islands, and great archi
tectural taste and skill have been displayed.
These " every man his own island " seem to rejoice in
names selected from Paradise to the infernal regions, and
from Eve to Diana, stuck on boards, on boathouses, or at
the landing-places.
One called the Royal, with the stars and stripes flying
over, appeared waggish. It seemed quite a fairy-land trip,
the steamer going so close we could see into the windows
of these island-houses, while others were perched upon
high rocks towering far above us. On one or two of the
larger islands are immense summer hotels, with fine gardens.
In fact, all the islands have well-kept gardens.
We regretted when the steamer suddenly turned a corner
into the St. Lawrence River, taking us back to solid
business-looking little Canadian towns, and magnificent
bridges, 2 miles in length, crossing this splendid river.
The great object of our visit was to see the Rapids, and
undergo some sensations of awe. At Coteau — for all this
part of Canada is still French in manner and language,
never having changed since we took it from the French —
we took on board the celebrated Indian pilot, Big John,
who is said to have been a chief, and pictures represent him
in a gaudy costume of skins, with a headdress of feathers.
Being anxious to see the individual who was to have our
lives in his hands, we kept a sharp look-out, and, to our
minds, started without him, because there was not any one
answering the description came on board ; so made inquiries
of a little fat steward, who is a fine advertisement, " Good
eating done here." He replied, in good Lancashire,
"Summut mun ha' 'appened, then. Kum this wa-a-y,"
when he indicated the Indian, Big John, in an old straw

J36 Canada.

hat, which had probably belonged to one of the lost tribes.
He did not look burdened with any amount of responsibility.
Yet he took the ship to Montreal in good style. Never
judge by appearances !
The Rapids are thus described in a pamphlet given to
us by the Navigation Company : —
" Coteau Rapids, a very fine rapid, 2 miles in length.
In some portions the current is very swift. Seven miles
lower down we enter the Cedar Rapids. At first sight
this rapid has the appearance of the ordinary rapids ;
but when once the steamer has entered it, the turbulent
waters and pitching about render the passage very exciting.
There is also a peculiar motion of the vessel, which seems
like settling down, as she glides from one ledge to another.
" Farther on we enter the Split Rock, so called from the
enormous boulders at the entrance. A person unacquainted
with the navigation of these rapids will always involuntarily
hold his breath until this ledge has been passed, which is
distinctly seen from the deck of the steamer.
" At one time the steamer seems to be running directly
upon it : the full torrent rushes with frightful force and
volume against it, and you are borne as if to certain de
struction ; but just when you might expect to feel the crash
of rending timbers the dividing current catches the vessel
under her fore foot ; a skilful hand at the helm watches ;
she keels down under the shock ; in an instant her bow is
swept in a new direction, and the island is passed in safety,"
— but not without shipping a great quantity of water on
both sides, as the rolling is fearful.
" The next rapids are called the Cascade Rapids, which
are remarkable on account of the numerous white crests
foaming on the top of the dark waters, through which the
vessel passes ; and as the shortness of the waves has the

Canada. 337

effect of pitching the steamer as if at sea, the sensation is
very enjoyable.
" This series of 4 rapids is 1 1 miles in extent, and has
a descent of 82 feet 6 inches.
" The last rapid is called the Lachine, a name given by
the first settlers, who thought they had discovered the
passage leading to China.
" The steamer glides down the rapid stream with increas
ing swiftness, denoting that a formidable rapid is ahead.
Stillness reigns on board, as the steam has been turned off
Away goes the steamer, driven by an irresistible current,
carrying her to the first pitch of the most formidable and
most difficult navigation.
"The steamer, after emerging from its first pitch, rises
firmly on the surging billows flanked by rocks on each
side, steers straight in the swift current guided by the
steady eye of ' Big John,' who is at the helm.
" Conversation is impossible ; the grandeur and magnitude
of the scenes around on all sides inspire silence."
We can describe in a few words the opinion and feelings
of some of these tourists, who have been frightened and
sick, ejaculating, when the danger was past, " Thank God ;
I won't come again ! "
We enjoyed seeing this triumph of mind over matter
in conveying three hundred human souls through such
troubled waters.
The excitement was no sooner over than we came in
full view of the Victoria Bridge spanning the St. Lawrence,
2 miles in length, at a great height, and built at an
immense cost, and, passing under, Montreal came in full
¦view, with the prominent towers of Notre Dame and other
"churches and fine buildings. We were soon landed, and
commenced a promenade of the city ; but were somewhat 22

338 Canada.

surprised to find ourselves in a much more French than
English city, with its French-named streets, signs, and
French-speaking people, newspapers in French, and the
familiar French street cries.
We visited Notre Dame, which is said to be like its
parent in Paris, only smaller. We sympathise with the
smallness, but it may, like "Topsy," grow. The child,
however, is much plainer than its parent, and will require
decorating. A service was going on, with a fairly good
attendance for a week-day.
Some of the old town is very quaint, while the new is
imposing, with wide streets and splendid buildings, com
manding fine views of the mountains behind, and across
one of the rivers, for Montreal is an island. The " Hotel
Windsor" is the largest in the Dominion, and is a most
imposing building. St. Lawrence Hall is also very large,
with many others.
July gth, Saturday. — We started early by the Grand
Trunk Railway, and remember, some years ago, when
much speculation was going on in this line, how the
question used to be asked, " How's Trunks to-day ? " as
though " Trunks " were a sick man.
Crossing the St. Lawrence by the wonderful Victoria
Bridge, our journey was, for the most part, on the shores
of Lakes Champlain and George, both very pretty, and
much frequented by Americans in summer. Arriving
about noon at the head of the Lake, dinner was announced,
when we left the train, and adjourned to a steamer on
the Lake, where a good dinner was served ; rather a novel
proceeding, but useful under the circumstances.
Early in the afternoon we arrived at Saratoga, a place
well known some way or other to most people, — noted for
its mineral waters ; noted for its trunks ; noted for being

Canada. 339

a great resort of pleasure and idleness, being a regular
garden of Eden, where Eves come to tempt Adams ; noted
for its monster hotels and fine shops, wherein are sold the
noted Saratoga perfumes, which will even make Dinah a
fragrant creature.
Alighting from the cars, we inquired for the largest and
best hotel, and were told the two largest — not much differ
ence in the size — were the " United States " and " Grand
Union," each capable of providing for 1,500 people, sufficient
for our small selves ; but the responsibility rested with us
which to choose, so we selected the nearest — the " United
States" — being conducted to this establishment by a hand
somely dressed nigger, who looked, we imagined, at our
travel-stained and threadbare costumes, and little luggage,
not having any Saratoga trunks wherein to carry ward
robes. Arriving at the hotel, to use a sporting phrase, " it
rather knocked the wind out of us " to see such a place,
standing on about four acres, three sides covered with most
elaborate buildings, and the centre with forest trees, shrubs,
and Italian gardening — a perfect paradise.
When signing the register, we observed the last arrival
was a marquise, family, and six servants, consequently felt
assured of being in the right place.
The country is hilly, with trees and small lakes, the city
partaking of this, for the principal road or street has an
avenue of trees wide apart, both sides lined with monster
hotels, shops, etc. Half a mile down on the left-hand side
is Congress Park — a pretty enclosure, with covered pro
menades, caje, bandstand, and pump-houses, wherein are
the natural water-springs. The water people come here
to drink before breakfast to cure all sorts of complaints.
Vichy, Carlsbad, etc., are all represented, as though Nature

340 Canada.

had provided this place with the advantages of France,
Germany, etc.
Opposite the Congress Park is a drinking bar, with a
notice, " You can drink as much Congress water, or any
other sort you please, for 5 cents " ; but the tempting price
failed to draw, for the place seemed empty.
A little further up the hill is a garden with fountains,
seats, etc., and a notice board : " Tonsorial College from
Albany. Professor Neck performs Tonsal Osculations.
You are invited." We did not accept the invitation, cal
culating what might happen if our collars were changed
in fit ; so walked on, passing more hotels and houses, until
the road led us into a cemetery, which explained at once
the effect of all these springs and tonsorial evolutions.
So this is the end of Saratoga, where many remain
covered with tall obelisks of great cost, to be in keeping
with a place where dollars flow like milk and honey.
Retracing our steps, we arrived at the " United States
Hotel " for dinner. It was a sight worth seeing, for the
dining-room is over 200 feet long and 40 feet wide, seating
over 800 people at small tables ; and to wait upon these
dressed-up guests are 170 black waiters, all with huge
white collars and extensive white shirt-fronts — a nigger
display worth seeing to study the facial freaks of nature ;
some with protruding mouths and big ears, others all eyes
and high cheekbones, and most of them with white teeth,
to be envied and coveted by many a fair one.
July 10th, Sunday. — When the ladies turned out for
church it was like going to a flower show or Jete. Such
loud costumes are seldom seen, or such elegance in the
streets. There was one feature struck us much — that is, all the
shop windows were decorated with their respective wares,

Canada. 341

and many were open for business, also newspaper boys
were driving a good trade, and newspapers were openly
taken into church. Even young girls purchased their
paper. We have only seen one Saratoga with its pleasures, and
should commend some of our English caterers to make a
trip. The lesson would pay, to pick up a few notions.
Afterwards we started for New York, and had a pleasant
trip on the banks of the Hudson River, taking up our
quarters at the " Fifth Avenue Hotel."
The weather was very hot ; but we braved the sun,
and visited many places — Wall Street and the Exchange,
Brooklyn, and its wonderful bridge, the Central Park, etc.,
etc. We returned on the City oj New York, bound for
Liverpool, then rail to Scarborough, thus ending a successful
trip to many countries in going round the world.

INDEX.

Aberdeen, 63

Ballarat, 40, 45

Airlie, Steamship, 121, 167

Botanical Gardens, 40

Alaska, 256, 271-93, 297, 301,

309

China Town, 43

Alaskan Seal Fishery, 287

College of Mines, 44
Albany, 30-32, 340
Gold Mine, 43
Albany Pass, 130
Infirmary, 44
Albert Victor, Prince, Death of, 61
School of Art, 44
Alligator River, 135
Banda Sea, 142, 143
"Alligators," 136
Banff, 312
Amalfi, 151
Baranoff, 285
Ambleside, 56
Barenda, 258
Anacortes, 274
Barrier Island, 103
Arabia, Desert of, 13
Barrier Reef, 123
Arabia, Gulf of, 16, 17
Bavaria Poor Law, 245
Arabian Sea, 17, 18
Bay of Biscay, 30
Aragura Sea, 133
Bear Creek, 3 10
Armour Canning Co , 323
Beaverfoot River, 311, 312
Armstrong's Works, 10
Behring Straits, 301
Atago Yama, 210
Bella Bella, 275, 291
Auckland, 101-4
Bell Farm, 319
Free Library, 102
Bellgrave, 77
Maori Curiosities, 102
Bero Island, 143
Museum, 102
Biba, 202
Australia, 5, 11, 31
Big John, 335, 337
Australian Bay of Biscay, 32
Bind Island, 129
Australian Bight, 32
Bingley, 55
Avon River, 70
Biwa, Lake, 192, 201
Blackfeet Tribe, 316
Bab-el-Mandeb, Straits of,
16
Bluff Harbour, 57, 63
Badlam, Mr., 292
Boston, 322
Baise, 9, 10
Botany Bay, 115
Baise, Castle of, 10
Bradford, 55, 86
Bainbridge, Mr., of Newcastle
94,96
Bridal Veil, 264
Baird Glacier, 278
Bridgewater, 54
Baker, Mount, 306
Brighton, 55
344

Index.

Brisbane, 61
Brisbane River, 122
British Columbia, 275, 297, 298
Brooklyn, 341 ,
Brussels, 112
Buddhist Temples, 163, 169, 173, 190,
197
Buller River, 76
Bulli Gorge, 115
Cairns, 126
Calhoren, Lake, 320
California, 247-70, 309
Caligula's Bridge, 10
Cambridge, 102
Canada, 295-341
Canadian-Pacific Railway, 302, 305,
312
Canterbury, 69
Canton, 158, 159, 163, 169, 170
Canton River, 158
Cap of Liberty, 262
Capri, 9, 11
Carpentaria, Gulf of, 132
Cascade Rapids, 336
Cateau, 335
Cave of the Winds, 330
Cedar Rapids, 336
Celebes, 144
Celebes Sea, 144
Ceylon, 19-25
Chalmers, Port, 68, 69
Champlain, Lake, 338
Chester, 168
Chiaia, 10
Chicago, 322, 325, 334
Chilcat, 283
Chilcat Indians, 283, 292, 301
Chilkoots, 292
China, 147-78, 187, 211, 218, 337
China Sea, 145, 150
China, Voyage to, 119-45
Chinese Tortures, 164-7
Chislehurst Common, 298
Christchurch, 69, 70
Chuzenji, 215, 216
Cicero's Villa, 10

Cirque de Gavarne, 309
City op New York, Steamship, 341
Claremont Island, 128
Cleveland, 55
Clifton, 115
Cloisonne Ware, 229, 243
Cloudesley, 71
Cloud's Rest, 262
Coblentz, 191
Cockle's Pills, 94
Cogee, no
Coker's Hotel, 69
Colombo, 21, 25-30
Columbia, 311
Columbia River, 268, 307, 310
Columbian Mountains, 301
Columbus, Christopher, 29
Cook & Son, T., 52
Cook, Mount, 206
Cook's Straits, 78, 81
Cookstown Bay, 1 27
Coral Sea, 250
Coteau Rapids, 336
Cragieburn, 71
Crete, Island of, 12
Crosse and Blackwell, 283
d'Agnano, Lake, 10
Daita Kivan, 203
Dalada Malegawd, 24
Darwin, Port of, 132, 133
Davidson Glacier, 283
Deilli, 140
Derwent River, 54, 56
Detroit, 327
Devil, Lake, 313
Discovery Passage, 275
Donald, 3 1 1
Donald Glacier, 310
Driard House, 297
Dunedin, 67-9
Dunmore, 319
Dunsmuir, 293, 298
Eastern and Australian Line, 121
Eden, Mount, 102
Edgecombe, Mount, 286

Index.

545

Edinburgh, 68
El Capitan, 264
Emu Dance, 136
Emu Tribe, 140, 141
Enoshima, Island of, 206
Epping Forest, 55
Erie, Lake, 333
Etna, Mount, 11, 206
Europa Point, 7
Fairweather Range, 288
Fern Tree Bower, 56
Findlay Creek, 311
Flat Head Indians, 291
Flinton, man, 84
Fort Simpson, 291
Frankland Isle, 126
Fraser River, 275, 305, 306
Frederick Sound, 278, 290
Fujiyama, 206
Fusaro, 10
Fusaro, Lake, 10
Gastineau Channel, 280
Geelong, 40
George, Lake, 338
Georgia, Gulf of, 275
Gibraltar, 7, 8
Glacier Bay, 288
Glacier Point, 263
Glacier Station, 308
Glasgow, 52, 67
Glenorchy, 55
Goat Island, 328
Gold Creek, 280
Goshen, Lake, 14
Graham's Reach, 275, 291
Giand Trunk Railway, 338
Grassmere, 71
Great Auk, 283
Grenville Channel, 291
Greymouth, 75
Hakom Mountains, 206
Half Dome, 262
Hampton Court Maze, 3
Hankow, Steamship, 157
Hargitt, E., 112

Harriet, Lake, 320
Heckmondwike, 55
Hector, 312
Hermit Glacier, 310
Hikone, 202
Hill & Sons, Organ Builders, 1 12
Hinderwell, 164
Hobart, 54, 55, 62
Hokitika, 70
Hong Kong, 121, 149-58, 167
Bank, 152
Happy Valley, 152
Jinrickshas, 152
Junks, 154
Sampans, 154
Shop signs, 156
Streets, 152
Tramways, 152
Hope Junction, 77
Hope Saddle, 77
Hoyii, 195
Hudson Bay Co., 276, 291, 301
Hudson River, 341
Huka Falls, 89
Hull, 63
Hutton Buscel, 104
Icebergs, 288, 289
Icy Straits, 287, 289, 290
Idaho, Steamship, 289
Inarghua, 76
Ingram, Herbert, 322
Inspiration Point, 264
Invercargill, 63
Ismailia, 14-16
Japan, 63, 179-246
Japan, Sea of, 178
Japanese Beauty, 205
Cedars, 217
Cherry Fete, 193,212
Dinner Party, 227
God " Diabutsu," 197, 207
Holy Trees, 211
Indo-no-kane, 187
Kitchen, 237
Lacquer, 238

346

Index.

Japanese Musical Instruments, 212
Temples, 185, 186, 188, 190, 193,
197, 199
Theatre, 187
Tree " Karasaki," 202
Jericho, 55
Jerusalem, 55
Jinrickshas, 150, 152, 172, 183,
185, 190, 196, 205-208, 227, 233,
241, 242
Johnstone's Straits, 275
Jolivant, 37
Jost Procession, 169
Juneau, 280
Jupiter and Venus, Transit of, 90
Kaeurawaya River, 195
Kagusa Dance, 220
Kamakura, 207
Kandy, 22, 24
Keighley, 86
Kenealy, Dr., 285
Kicking Horse Canon, 311
Kingston, 64, 334
Kinnard, 74
Kioto, 191, 192, 196, 197
Kobe, 182
Kootenay Valley, 311
Kwangtung, 151
Kyoto, 192, 231, 232, 236
Lachine Rapid, 337
Lake Wood Cemetery, 321
Langhua, Pagoda of, 173
Lathop, 265
Launceston, 53
Botanical Gardens, 56
Climate, 53
Exhibition, 53
Hotel Brisbane, 53
Public Park, 54
Rivers Esk, North and South,
53
St. David's Cathedral, 55
Leeuwin or Lioness, Cape, 30
Leith, 68
Leon Valley, 309

Libby's Prison, 326
Lincoln Park, 326
Liverpool, 341
London, 16,45, 52, 53. 64, m. '12.
156, 212, 300, 326
London Bridge, 307
London Mission, 174
Longford, 76, 77
Loretto, 326
Luzon, Island of, 145
Ly-ee-mom Pass, 151
Lynn Canal, 283
Macdonald Glacier, 310
Mackenzie, Peter, 313
Mackenzie-Tilley, 308
Maid of the Mist, Steamship, 329
Managana, Steamship, 78
Manchester, 67
Manikupitu, 77
Manilla, 145
Manilla Bay, 145
Manitoba, 320
Maori Country, 79
Maories, 82-103
Marriages, 96
Pah, or Village, 89, 92, 93
Wharry, 90, 100
Mariposa Park, 265, 305
Medicine Hat, 316
Melbourne, 38, 45-7, 52
Buildings, 38
Cabs, 38
Charity Organisation, 39, 46
Christmas, 39
Cole's Book Arcade, 47
Cricket Match, 45
Federal Palace Hotel, 38
Free Library, 46
Gaol, 47
Harbour, 37
Museum, 45
No Poor Law, 46
Observatory, 39
St. Kilda, 45
St. Paul's Cathedral, 45
Spencer Street, 40

Indt

ex.

347

Melbourne Tramways, 38
Zoological Gardens, 46
Melvill Island, 133
Merced River, 260, 261
Messina, Straits of, 1 1
Mihashi, 217
Milan Cathedral, 289
Mindanao, Island of, 144
Mindoro Island, 144
Mindoro Straits, 145
Minneapolis, 320, 321
Minnehaha Falls, 321
Minniewonka, 313
Minuka Tree, 87
Mississippi River, 321
Molucca Straits, 143
Monday Island, 131
Mont Blanc, 206
Monte Nurro, 10
Montreal, 336-8
Moosegaw, 319
Moreton Bay, 122, 123
Muko-Jima, 212
Musmee, A, 184, 227-9
Nagasaki, 181
Nagoya, 202
Naniamo, 293
Napier, 85, 86
Naples, 9-11, 16
Naples, Bay of, 9
Nara, 188
Negro Islands, 144
Nelson, 77
Nevada Falls, 262
New Caledonia, 109
New Guinea, 131
New Norfolk, 56
New South Wales, 105-17
Newtown, 55
New Westminster, 293, 298
New York, 325, 341
New Zealand, 45, 51, 52, 57, 59-104,
107, 259, 309
New Zealand Banking Co., 76
Ngawrihoe, 88
Niagara, 268, 327

Niagara Falls, 327-33
Niagara River, 329
Nikko, 215, 217, 218
Nile, 12-16
Nile Waters, 14, 16
Nio, 219
Norfolk, 57, 283
Norfolk Island, 153
North American Indians, 292
North Bend, 306
North Cape, 107
North Dome, 262
North Queensland, 125
Northumberland Islands, 124
North-west Trading Co., 283
Norway, 51, 53, 74, 78, 218, 309
Nunobiki, 183
Oaklands, 257
Oban, 124
Oceania, Steamship, 245
Ohinemutu, 93, 98
Oike, 191
Olympia, Mount, 270, 301
Omaru, 69
Onehunga Harbour, 103
Ontario, Lake, 333
Ophir, Steamship, 3, 4, 7, 10, 16, 37
Oregon, 268
Osaka Bay, 183, 185, 186
Oshima Islands, 246
Otago, 69
Oteira Gorge, 70-74
Otsu, 201
Oxford, 101, 102
Oxford Forest, 101
Pacific Ocean, 62, 108, 143, 301
Pacific Steamers, 293
Palace of Julius Caesar, 10
Palace of Nero, 10
Palawan Island, 144
Palmerston, 133, 140
Paradeniza, 24, 25
Paramatta River, 116
Parattahy Junction, 54
Patterson's Glacier, 278

348

Index.

Pearl or Canton River, 158

Rotorua, Lake, 93

Pectoris Sound, 78

Russell, 107

Percy Island, 124

Peril Straits, 284

Sacramento Canon, 266

Picton, 78

St. Elias Range, 290

Pi-wa-ack, 262

St. Lawrence River, 335, 337, 338

Plymouth, 4

St. Paul, 321

Plymouth Harbour, 4

St. Vincent Head, 6

Pompeii, 9

Salfatara, 10

Ponter's Pass, 70

Salfatura Amphitheatre, 10

Port Adelaide Bay, 33

Salmon Cannery, 283

Portland, 268

Sandy Bay, 57

Portland-Oregon, 307

Sandy Point, 139

Port Said, 13, 14, 16

San Francisco, 249, 266

Portugal, Coast of, 6

China Town, 257

Posilipo, Hill of, 10

Golden Gate, 251, 252, 256, 267

Pozzuoli, 10

Saratoga, 338-41

Puget Sound, 270, 273

Satsuma Ware, 232, 243

Pullman Car Works, 326

Scarborough, 104, 150, 341

Pullman Town, 327

Oliver's Mount, 150

Pyrenees, 309

Whitby Railway, 24

Selkirk Glacier, 309

Queen Charlotte Sound, 78, 291

Selkirks, 308, 309, 310

Queensland, 33

Sentinel Dome, 262

Queensland, Inland Sea of, 124

Seven Isles of Iza, 246

Queensland, North, 125

Seymour Narrows, 275

Queen, Steamship, 273, 297

Shakespeare's Beetle, 108

Queenstown, 64

Shameen Island, 159

Quorn Tart, in, 112

Shanghai, 167, 171-8, 182

Shasta, Mount, 266, 267

Raphael, 286

Sheffield, 83

Raymond, 258, 265

Shimonoseki, 181

Red River, 320

Shintoism, 220

Red Sea, 15, 16

Shinto Temples, 220

Reefton, 75, 76

Shippo Ware, 229

Reefton, Stephenson's Hotel, 76

Shizouka, 203

Revelstoke, 307

Shoguns, 186, 210, 217

Rhine, 181, 191

Shuswap Lakes, 306

Richmond, 55, 326

Sierra Nevada, 260

Richmond Islands, 124

Sinai, Mount, 15

Robinson Crusoe, 124

Sissons, 267, 268

Rogers' Pass, 310

Sitka, 280, 284, 287

Rolleston, Mount, 72, 73

Sitkine Tribe, 277

Ronins, 213

Skiddaw, 73

Roscrear, 53

Sleepy Hollow, 77

Rotomahana, Steamship, 51

Sorrento Puzzle-boxes, 11

Rotorua, 93, 10 1

South Saskatchewan River, 316

Index.

349

Spain, 7

Temples, Nanzenji, 199

Spit Hawk's Bay, 86

Serapis, 10

Split Rock, 336

Shimniodo, 201

Stephen, Mount, 312

Shinto, 190
Suez, 13, 14
Silver, 201
Suez Canal, 13, 14
Spring Hill, 213, 214
Sumida River, 212
Tennoyi, 186
Swiss Glaciers, 309
Venus, 10
Switzerland, 74, 188
Wakamiya, 188
Sybil's Cave, 10
Yanagidani, 197
Sydney, 37, 51, 109-17,
123, '43
Thames, 307
Arts Gallery, 112
Thlinket Tribe, 277, 292
Botanical Gardens
110
Three Kings Islands, 107
Cathedral, no
Tikitere, 96
Charity Organisation, 115
Tilbury, 3
Free Library, 115
Timor Island, 140, 143
Harbour, no
Timsah, 14
Heads, 115
Togetsukyo Bridge, 196
Hospital, 115
Tokio, 208, 215, 217, 234, 242
Hotel Metropole, 1
10
Toku Glacier, 279, 283
Organ, 112
Tongariro, 88
Prices of Commodities, 1 1 1
Torii, 221
Quorn Tart, III, 112
Toronto, 333
Stayne, 1 17
Torres Straits, 131
Streets, in
Town Hall, 112
Syracuse, 302
Tacoma, 269
Taigado, 201
Takanawa, 213
Tamar, 54
Tangiers, 7
Tasmania, 33, 45, 5I"58
Taupo, 89
Taupo, Lake, 87, 88
Tegasu, 222
Tegasu Mausoleum, 221
Temples, Anna-no-Koyane, 18J
Choin, 193
Daibutsu, 190, 207
Diana, 10
Golden, 193
Hachiman, 207
Higashi Hong Wanji, I97
Kurodani, 200
Miidera, 202
Totems, 277, 278, 285
Townsend, 274
Townsville, 125
Acacia Gardens, 125
Fruit, 125
Town, 125
Treadwell Mines, 279
Tuesday Island, 131
Tu-lu-la-wi, 263
Twelve Miles Avenue, 74
Union Steam Co., 104
Uri-Lung River, 177
Ushant, 5
Uyeno Park, 209
Vancouver, 283, 293, 302, 305
Vancouver Island, 275, 293, 297, 2
Venice of Japan, 185
Venice, the Ledo, 68
Venus and Jupiter, Transit of, 90
Vernal Falls, 262
Victoria, 29, 53
Victoria Bridge, 337
35o

Index.

Victoria (Vancouver), 274, 293, 297,
298, 301
Vienna Exhibition, 203
Virgil's Tomb, 10
Virginia, 326
Waikato River, 89, 93, 101
Waimakarin River, 71, 72
Waiotapu, 99
Wairakei, 89, 90, 93
Black Geyser, 91
Blue Lake, 91
Boilers, 91
Cascade, 91
Devil's Punch Bowl, 91
Devil's Trumpet, 92
Donkey Engine, 91
Eagles' Nest, 91
Fairies' Bath, 91
Great Blowhole, 92
Great Champagne Caldron, 90
Great, in Eruption, 91
Green Hot Lakes. 93
Green Pool, 91
Lightning Pool, 91
Mirror, 91
Muddy Pool, 91
Oil Bath, 91
Prince of Wales' Feathers, 91
Terekereke Geyser, 91
Twin Geysers, 91

Wairarapa, Steamship, 104
Wakatipu Lake, 64
Wallsend, 75
Washington, 269
Webb, Captain, 329
Wednesday Island, 131
Wellington, 78
Government House, 81
Hospital, 81
Lunatic Asylum, 81
Parliament Buildings, 81
Wellington, Mount, 55, 56, 62
Westelle, 55
Whakarewarema River, 99
White Star Line, 245
Wiegland, M. Auguste, 112
Willoughby, Dick, 289
Windsor, 327
Winnipeg, 319
Wrangel, 276, 278, 290
Wrestlers, The, 232
Yaami Hotel, 192
Yang-tse-Kiang, 167, 177
Yeddo, 209, 214
Yellow Sea, 178
Yodogawa, 185
Yokohama, 183, 226, 302
York, 168
York Plains, 55
Yosemite Valley, 257, 309

Elliot Stock, Paternoster Row, London.

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