!¦ YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Gift of Mrs, H. B. Sargent JOUENEY ROUND THE WOELD IN THE YEAES 1875-1876-1877. JOUENEY EOUND THE WOELD YEARS 1875-1876-1877, VENERABLE JOHN HENRY GRAY, M.A,, LL,D., Christ's college, cambeidge, archdeacon op hong kong. Aitthor of " China, u. History of the Laws, Manners, and Customs of the People "; " Walks in the City of Canton," ^fc. LONDON : HAERISON, 59, PALL MALL, §oahdkt ia t^i; fticra aitir i-Sl-f. t^z |rira:e of malts. 1879. LONDON : IIABBIBOK AND SONS, PKINTEB8 IN OBDiNAET TO HER MAJESTY, ST MaRTIN'S LANE, BeXiicatetj, BY MOST GRACIOUS PERMISSION, HIS MAJESTY THE KING OF THE BELGIANS. CONTENTS. Chapter I. ANNAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA. PAGES \ oyage trom China to Cochin-China — Saigon Kiver — Monkeys — Crocodiles — Saigon — Frenchmen not good Colonists — Market place at Saigon— Palace of Justice — Palace of hie Excellency the Governor of the Colony — Pubhc Gardens — Botanical Gardens — Menagerie — Population of Saigon — Siesta at noon — Town of Cho-len — Famous for its Eice-stores — Many Chinese reside at Cho-len — Difficulties thrown in our way on expressing a desire to Visit the Interior of Annam or Cochin-China and Cambodia — Chmate^Products of Annam — Elephants and Rhinoceroses — Annamese — Diet — Brief Account of Erench Cochin-China — Eiver Meikong — Province of Mytho — Major Henry — French Jealousy — Province of Vinklong — Eude French Priest . . . . , . . . . . . . . . 1-lJ, Chaptbe II. CAMBODIA. Arrival at Phnom-Peng — Debarkation —Hospitahty of his Excel lency the French Protector — King of Cambodia grants us an interview — Deportment of the King — Conversation — The Palace — Throne Eoom — Theatre — Body Guard — Eoyal Stables — White Elephants — Iron Palace — Funeral Pyre — Interview with the Second King — Conversation — Cambodia has suffered from Civil Wars — Summary Execution of a Eebel Chieftain — Arch-Abbot of Buddhism — Prison and Prisoners — Wats or Temples — Chinese Temples — ^Account of Kwan-tai, God of .War — Streets of Phnom-Peng — Merchants — Pariah Dogs — Commercial products of the Country — Forests — Gutta-Percha Tree — Beasts of Burden — Eeligion of the Cambodians — An account of Buddha — Tenets of Buddha — Cambodian Marriage Ceremony— Funeral Ceremonies — Cremation — Games and Amusements — Journey into the Interior of Cambodia — Eiver Mesap — Birds — Ichneumon— Town of Kum-poong-Loong — Wat or Temple— Market-place— Salt Fish— Fish Oil — Funeral viii CONTENTS. PAGES Procession— Kum-poong-he-leik— Trading Vessels— Purchase a Fat Pig — Kum-poo-chee-nong — Floating Houses — Water Vessels andFurnaces— A Marriage— A Pilot wanted— Monkeys —Great Lake of Thay-lay-Sap— Many Birds— Province of Siamrap— Journey from the head of the Lake to Siamrap City —Accommodation at Siamrap— Death of Wife of Govemor of Siamrap — Dine with the Governor— Theatricals — City of Siamrap— Eide on an Elephant— Euins of Angor- Wat- Ancient City of Angor-Tam— Ceremony observed on a Cambodian Youth attaining the age of Puberty— Our return to Phnom-Peng 15-74 Chaptee III. SINGAPORE. Arrival at Singapore — Malayan Divers — Hospitality of Captain Caldbeck — Brief Sketch of Singapore — Streets — Town Hall — Theatre — Library and Eeading Eoom — Cathedral of St. Andrew — Goal — Mutiny in the Gaol — Death of the Governor of the Gaol — Chinese Temple — Public Gardens — Gardens of the Honourable Mr. Ho (Whampoa) — Cemetery^Pine-apple Garden — Gaylang Eoad — Cocoa-nut Plantations — Gambia Plantation — Pepper Plantation — Tapioca Plantation — Wild Pigs — Other Wild Animals . . . . . . . . . . 75-95 Chaptee IV. JOHORE AND MALACCA. Journey to Johore — Brief Account of Johore — Breakfast at the Palace;^A Eailroad in Johore — New Locomotive Engine — Gambier Plantation — Pepper Plantation — Water-spout — Malacca — Brief Sketch of Malacca — Court House — Gaol — English Church — Eoman Catholic Church — Hill of St. Paul — Francis Xavier — Bazaars — Chinese Hongs — Shops in which Stuffed Birds are Sold — Mohammedan Mosque — Plantation of Cocoa-nut Trees — An Alligator — Inhabitants of Malayan Peninsula — Eeligion of Malays — Products — Tin Mines — Hot Springs 96-102 Chapter V. SIAM. Voyage to Siam — Gulf of Siam — Island of Tioman — Mode of capturing Pish — Curing Fish— Bangkok — The Wat or Temple of Sleeping Buddha — Several graceful Dagobas or Pagodas CONTENTS. IX PAOBH Wat Cheng or Wat Shang — Wat Conlayer — Nemis — Colossal Idol of the Last Buddha — Wat or Temple in Form of a Chinese Junk — Tower of Babel — Buddhist Priests — Priests supported by the People — Bangkok, the Venice of Asia — Water Streets aud Floating Houses — The King's Palace — King's Body Guard — The Wat Phran Kean, or Temple of the Emerald Idol — Old Audience HaU — New Audience Hall — Treasury Buildings — Museum — Stable containing White Elephants — Ehinoceros — Wild Beasts — Jar of Sacred Oil — Singular Manner in which it was obtained — Cunning of Tiokery — Place where Dead Bodies are exposed to be devoured by Dogs and Birds — Funeral Pyres on which Bodies are Burned — Garden of Siamese Minister for Foreign Affairs — Cemetery — Ancient City of Ayuthia — Trap in which Wild Elephants are caught — Elephants useful as Beasts of Burden — Deserted City of Ayuthia — Its History — Constantine Phaulkon — His Works — His Death — Appearance of Country — Herds of Buffaloes — Black Buffaloes — White Buffaloes — Products of Siam — Pariah Dogs — Cats — Crows — Lizards — Took-kas 103-146 Chapter VI. PENANG AND PROVINCE WELLESLEY. Arrival at Penang — Meaning of the name Penang — Harbour of Penang — Mountain Eange — Fertile Plains — Products of Penang — Forests — Groves of Areca Palms — Geological For mation of Penang — City of Georgetown — Inhabitants of Penang — Enghsh Church — Monument in honour of the Marquis of ComwalHs — Monument in honour of Francis Light, Esq. — Brief Account of Francis Light, Esq., and of the Islaud of Penang — Eoman Cathohc Church — Mohammedan Mosque — Cemetery — Eoads — ViUas in which Europeans Eeside — Mountain Eesidences — Wayside Inn — Water-mill — SmaU Hindoo Temple — ^WaterfaU — Baths — Province WeUes ley — Cocoa-nut Plantations — Cattle — Steam Eice-miU — Eiver and Ford — Sugar-cane Plantations — Indigo Lands — Brief Account of Province WeUesley .. .. .. .. .. 147-155 Chapter VII. BURMAH. Amherst — Eiver Salween — Moulmein — Many European Ships in Harbour — Cargoes of Teak Timber — Moulmein a Flourish ing Port — Saw-miU — Strength and Docihty of Elephants X CONTENTS. PAGES employed iu Timber-yards — Temple or Pagoda containing Idol of Sleeping Buddha — Impression or Print of Buddha's Foot — Burmese Women, each carrying a Child on her Hip — Large Dagoba ou the top of the HUl — An Idol of Sleeping Buddha — A Eepresentation of a large Turtle — Obtain from the top of this Hill a flne View of Moulmein — English Church — Eoman Catholic Church — Hindoo Temple — Mohammedan Mosque — Cemetery — Caves — Gulf of Martaban — Eangoon Eiver, or Eastern Branch of Irrawaddy — Pilot — Brief Sketch of Eangoon — PubUc Gardens — Phayre's Museum — Military Gardens — Barracks — Eangoon Lake — An English Evangelist — Large White Dagoba in the centre of Eangoon — An Enclosed Market-place or Bazaar — The Shoe Dagon Prah or Golden Dagoba — Large BeU — Mohammedan Mosque — Hindoo Temple — Gaol — Enghsh Church — Monastic or Collegiate Institutions — Pupils receiving Instruction — Corpse of a Buddhist Priest — Funeral — Hindoo Procession — Burmese Costumes — Bodies Tattooed — Food — Marriage Ceremonies — Funeral Ceremonies — National Eeligion of Burmah — Buddhist Priests — Despotic Form of Government — Products of the Country — WUd and Domestic Animals — -Brief Sketch of Burmah — An Account of Colonel Browne's Attempt to Cross the Burmese Frontier en route through China . . . . . . . . , . . . 156-197 Chapter VIII. INDIA. Calcutta — Garden Eeach — Palace of King of Oude — Fleet of Merchantmen at the Anchorage, Calcutta — Palace of the Governor- General — Town Hall — High Court of Judicature — Museum — Fort WUliam — New Mint — Black Hole of Calcutta — Gaol — St. Paul's Cathedral — Lunatic Asylum — Educational Establishments— PubUc Monuments — PubUc Gardens — Espla nade — Game at Polo — Streets and Eoads — Eoads Watered — Vehicles or Conveyances — Burning Ghauts — Kalighaut — Mohammedan Mosque — Hindoo Festivals — Origin of Calcutta — Barrackpore — Governor-General's Palace and Grounds — Menagerie — Lady Canning's Tomb — Cantonments — Serampore Court-house — Temple in honour of Juggernauth — Baptist College — William Carey, Baptist Missionary — Colonel Bie, Danish Governor of Serampore — Baptist Chapel — Cemetery at Serampore — Mahogany Trees planted by Carey — Tomb of GokooH — Tomb of Carey — Benares — Bridge of Boats — Sekrole, the European Quarter of Benares — Streets — Houses — Ganges, a Sacred Eiver — Ghauts — Fakirs — Burning Ghauts — Many Deities Worshipped in Benares — Principal Divinity Siva or CONTENTS. xi PAGES Mahadeo, the Creative Energy — Many Lingas — Temple of , Bhaironath — Temple of Danpan — WcU of Fate — Temple of Bisheswar — WeU of Knowledge — Sacred Bulls — Manikarnika Well — Durga Kund Temple — Sacred Monkeys — Mosque of Aurungzebe — Buddhist Euins at Samath — Allahabad — Luck now — Cawnpore — Agi-a — Secundra — Futtehpore Sikree — Delhi — Ferozabad — Kootub and its Euins — Jubbelpore — Nand- gaum — Aurunzabad — Dowlertabad — Caves of EUora — Bombay — Caves of Elephanta — Matharen — Ghauts — KhandaUa — Caves of Klialee — Lanowlee — Poonah— Kurrachee — Muggar Pir 198-332 Chaptee IX. ARABIA. Voyage from Kurrachee to Muscat — Our Fellow-voyagers — H.M.S. "Nimble" — Shoal of Porpoises — Island of Chunar — Flocks of Sea Birds — Eock called FahU — Muscat Harbour — Town of Muscat — Sultan's Palace — Fort Merani — Old Porfuguese Cus- lom-house — Portuguese Cathedral — Govemment House — Church or Cloister in which more than two centuries ago several Portuguese Monks were murdered by Arabs — Streets or Bazaars — Bedouins — Pariah Dogs — Caves in which Arabs reside — WeU of Pure Water— Asylums for aged or infirm Cows, Dogs, Fowls, and other creatures — Hot Springs ai Bosur — An Account of the Province of Oman — Eeligion of the Inhabitants of Oman — Tenets of the Ibadhi Sect. . . . 333-3f 0 Chapter X. PERSIAN GULF AND PERSIA. Town of Muttra — Larak — Khismis — Ormus— Mounds of Salt — Ancient Portuguese Fort — Bundar Abbas — Luft — Linga — Bushue or Abus-char the town of Abu-Sudzebad — Bushire or Eeschire — Kharrak — Foa — Mahombrah 351-364 Chapter XI. MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. Bussorah — MaaghU — Eiver Tigris — Amarah — Kurnah^Garden of Eden — Tomb of Ezra — Ali-Gherby — Kut al Amarah — Ctesi phon — Selucia — Desert — Bedouins — ^Babylon — Hillah — Birs- Nimroud — Baghdad — Kazemain — Ager Konf — Eiver Eu phrates— -Kiffrey— Eeturn to Bombay— Aden— Eed Sea . . 365-439 xu CONTENTS. Chapter XII. EGYPT. PAGES Suez — Embarkation of Pilgrims for Mecca — Cemeteries — WeUs of Moses — IsmaUa — Cairo — Mosque of Ghama-el-Banat — Mosque of Sultan Ghoree — Mosque of Chief of the Dervishes — ¦ Mosque of Mahomet- AU-Pasha — Citadel — St. Joseph's Well — Mosque of Sultan Hassein — Mosque of El-Eefi — Large Square — Dutch Auction — Howling Dervishes at Mosque HiUmeah — Mosque of St. Catherine — Mosque of St. Lazarus — Mosque — Tombs of the Pashas — Tombs of the Caliphs — Gardens of Khedive— Public Gardens — Gardens of Count Chicolani — Horse and Camel Fair — Old Cairo — Church of Holy Virgin Mary — Church of Aboo-sa-fayre — Church of St. George — Bazaars at Cairo — ViUage of El-Matareeyeh — Sacred Tree and WeU — HeUopolis — Prison — Museum — Processions — Pyramids of Gizeh — Sphinx — Pyramid of Meydoum — Pyramids of Sa kara — Tomb of Sacred Bulls — Memphis — Alexandria — Pom pey's PiUar — Cleopatra's Needle, &c. , . . . . . . . 440-461 Chaptee XIII. PALESTINE. Port Said — Jaffa — Eoad to Jerusalem — Eamleh — Emmaus — Jeru salem — Greek Convent — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Armenian Convent and Church of St. James — Convent and Church of St. Mark — Convent and Church of the Holy Cross — Synagogues — Mosque of Omar — Mosque el-Aksa — Mosque of Sidna Issa — Vaults — Golden Gate — Pool of Hezekiah — Lower Pool of Gihon — Upper Pool of Gihon — Pool of Bethesda — Csenaculum — Supposed Tomb of David — Palace of Caiaphas — Greek Cemetery — EngUsh Cemetery — Sir Moses Montefiore's Almshouses — Tower of David, or Tower of Hippicus — WaUing- place of the Jews — Bazaars — Via Dolorosa — Palace of Pontius PUate — Place of St. Stephen's Martyrdom — Brook Kedron — Garden of Gethsemane — Tomb of the Virgin Mary — Mount of Ohves — Latin Church — Mosque of Jebel Tiir — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Tombs of Absalom, Zechariah, St. James, and Jehoshaphat — WeU of the Virgin Mary — Pool of Siloam — Pool of Joab or Nehemiah — Eetreat of the Apostles — Aeel- dema — Ancient Tombs — HUl of Evil CouncU — VaUey of Hinnom — Cave of Bezetha — Cave of Jeremiah — Ash Mounds — Tombs of the Kings — Bethany — Tomb of Lazarus — Beth lehem — Pools of Solomon — Eamah — Leda — Beyrout. . . , 462-490 CONTENTS. Chapter XIV. .^GEAJSr SEA AND ASIA MINOR. pages Cyprus — Ehodes — Cos — Samos — Chios — Smyrna — Ephesus — Sar dis— PhUadelphia 491-505 Chapter XV. TURKEY. Mitylene — Tenedos — Chanak-kalessi — Sea of Marmora — Constan tinople — Mosque of Santa Sophia — Mosque of Sulimau the Magnificent — Mosque of Sultan Aehmet — Mosque of Moham med II — Mosque of Bayazid II — Mosque of Shahzadeh — ¦ TuUp Mosque — Cistern of Constantine — Hippodrome — Column of Theodosius — ObeUsk formerly covered with Plates of Brass — Serpentine Column — Burnt Column — Etmeiden — Museum of Ancient Ottoman Costumes — Tower of Galata — Dancing Dervishes — Bazaars — Scutari — Howling Dervishes — Turkish Cemetery — EngUsh Cemetery . . . . . . 506-528 Chapter XVI. GREECE AND THE IONIAN ISLANDS. Syra — Peirseus — Athens — AcropoUs — Propylsea — Temple of Vic tory — Parthenon — Erectheum — Temple of Theseus — Areo pagus — Pnyx — Prisons of Socrates — HiU of Musseus — Tower of the Winds — Fountain of CaUirrhoe — Arch of Hadrian — Temple of Jupiter Olympus — Ccramicus — Old and New Cathedrals — Chamber of Eepresentatives — Greek Cemetery — Marathon— Eleusis — Zante — Cephalonia — Corfu . . . . 529-545 Chapter X7II. ITALY. Brindisi — Naples — Church of St. Januarius — Church of St. Dome nico Maggiore — Church of Santa Chiara— Church of Gesu Nuovo — Grotto di PosUippo — Tomb of VirgU— Campo Santo — Pompeii — Herculaneum — Mount Vesuvius — An Earthquake — Eome— St. Peter's Cathedral— S. Andrea DeUa VaUe— Sta. Maria Sopra Minerva— Church of II Gesu— Church of Sta. Anastasia— Sta. Maria Maggiore, &c., &c., &c.— Pisa— Cathe dral— Baptistery— Belfry, or Leaning Tower— Campo Santo —Florence— Cathedral— Belfry— Baptistery— Church of La Santa Croce— Church of San Lorenzo— Laurentian Library xiv OONTENTri. PAGES —Gli Ulficii— Venice— Cathedral of St. Mark— Doge's Palace —St. Mark's Square— Chui-ch of St. Giovanni e Paolo- Church of St. Maria dei Frari— Grand Canal— MUan— The Cathedral— Arco deUa Pace— Circo, or Amphitheatre— Santa Maria DeUe Grazie— Last Supper, by Leonardo da Vinci— PubUc Gardens, &c., &c., &c 516-583 Chaptee XVIII. BAVARIA. Tyrol — Munich — PubUc Monuments — Statue of MaximUian I — Statue of Ludwig I — Statue of MaximUian II— Statue of Bavaria — HaU of Heroes — Pynacothek — Glyptothek — Pro- pyloea— Ludwig's Church — Church of St. Maria — Au Suburb — Frauen Church, or Cathedral— Church of St, Michael— Basi lica of St. Boniface— Cemetery 583-586 Chapter XIX. AUSTRIA. Vienna — New Parade — Joseph Square — Imperial Palace — Church of St. Stephen — Church of St. Augustin — Church of the Capu chins — Church of St. Michael — Suburbs — Belvidere Palace — Church of St. Charles Barromeo — People's Garden — The Prater 587-590 Chapter XX. SAXONY. Dresden — Eoyal Palace — Eoyal Audience Chamber — Porcelain Cabinet — Audience Chamber — Parade Chamber — Green Vault — Eoyal Chapel or Court Church — StaUgebaude — Armoury — Cabinet of Casts — Picture GaUery — Palace of Princes — New Theatre — Kaufmann's Acoustic Cabinet — Bruhl Terrace — Old Bridge — Japanese Palace — Zoological Gtirdens . . . . 591-591 Chapter XXI. PRUSSIA AND GERMANY. Breslau — Statue of Blueher — Statue of Frederick the Great — • Statue of Frederick WUUam III — Eathhaus — Scourging Column — Cathedral of St. John — Church of the Holy Cross — Church of St. Mary- Church of St. Dorothea— Oels-Berhn— CONTENTS. X V I'AGHS Brandeubiu'gh Gate — Palace — Museum — Cathedral — Sohloss- briicke — Exchange — Synagogue — Aquarium — Houses of Par hament — Charlottenburgh — Thiergarten Park — Zuological Gardens — Hanover — Cologne — Cathedral — St. Ursula — St. Gereon— St. Peter 595-601 Chaptee XXII. BELGIUM. Brussels — Galerie St. Hubert — Grande Place — Hotel de ViUe — Maison du Eoi — Statue of Godfrey de BouiUon — Martyrs' Monument — Column of Congress— PubUc Fountams — Cathe dral — Notre Dame de la ChapeUe — Notre Dame des Victoires —Museum —Park— Waterloo— Visit to the Palafc . . . . 605-C09 Chapter XXIII. PRANCE. EaUway Accident — Paris — Madeleine — Vend6me Column — St. Germain — Tomb of James II of England — Journey to Eng land — Eetui-n to China viA the United States of America and Japan 610-G12 EEEATA. Page 126. In 21st line, instead of " capture," read " captives.'' Page 158. In 12th line, instead of " colossal lion," rmd " a colossal hon." Page 299. In 23rd hne, instead of "there stands," read "there stand." Pafe 379. In 14th line, instead of " Erza," read " Ezra." Page 479. In 18th hne, instead of " miracle St. John re. corded," read " miracj.e recorded." Pao-e 480. In 4th hne, instead of " pursuasion," read " per suasion." Page 492. In Slst line, instead of " sailing alone," read " sail ing along." A JOURNEY CHINA TO ENGLAT^D. Chapter 1. ANNAM, OE COCHIN-CHINA. Voyage from China to Cochin-China — Saigon Eiver — Monkeys — Crocodiles — Saigon — Frenchmen not good Colonists — Market-place at Saigon — Palace of Justice — Palace of his ExceUency the Governor of the Colony — Public Gardens — Botanical Gardens — Menagerie — Population of Saigon — Siesta at noon — Tciwn of Cho-len — Famous for its Eice-stores — Many Chinese reside at Cho-len — Difficulties thrown in our way on expressing a desire to Visit the Interior of Annam or Cochin-China and Cam bodia — CUmate — Products of Annam — Elephants and Ehinoceroses — Annamese — Diet — Brief Account of French Cochin-China — Eiver Mei kong — Province of Mytho — Major Henry — French Jealousy — Province of Vinklong — Eude French Priest. OuK readers cannot be surprised when we state that, after an uninterrupted residence of twenty-three years in China, we Felt a desire to return, for a season at aU events, to England, :he land of our nativity and the home of our fathers. We, :herefore, on the 14th day of January, a.d. 1875, embarked, it Hong-Kong, with a view to the gratification of that iesire, on board the steam-ship " Anadyr," which vessel is )ne of a large steam-fleet belonging to the " Messageries Maritimes Compagnie," of France. After a very plea sant voyage of four days, we arrived at Saigon, the capital jity of a large territory, which to-day is naturally termed, IS it belongs to France, Cochinchine Francaise, or French Dochin China. Our approach from the sea to Saigon was by B 2 ANNAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA. a deep meandering river, the banks of which are thickly covered with mangrove-trees. These woods of mangrove- trees contain, together with other animals, many monkeys. In the earher days of the French possession of a portion of Cochin-China, these creatures, being in no fear of man, used to occupy the tops of the trees. Now, however, owing not only to the increased traffic on the river, but also to the deadly fire which used to be directed agauist them by European voyagers, they have evidently withdrawn for safety to the inner and more secluded parts of the forest. The river, too, at one time, contained, it is said, many crocodiles. Now such amphibious creatures, for the reasons already given, are seldom seen. Any one visiting the city of Saigon need not, we think, be told that it is neither a British, nor an American, nor a (jJ-erman colony, inasmuch as the decay and apparent neglect which, at almost every step, attract the eye of the keen observer, prove beyond all reasonable doubt, that it is a possession in the hands of an European nation, the inhabitants of which never have been, and apparently are not at all likely to become, even at any future period, good and useful colonists. Frenchmen, whether at' home or abroad, entertain, so it appears to us, owing to their httle-mindedness and its inseparable concomitant, an inordinate vanity, a most in satiable thirst for military glory. This feeling, fuUy occupy ing their minds, withers and bhghts all habits of an indus trious or active nature, or, at aU events, causes their energies to flow in channels, or to be directed towards ends, which are essentially military and warlike. Energies so employed fail, we think, in bringing either upon a nation or the colonies which she may possess, those blessings which are, undeniably, the inevitable and sure heritage of ah people who regard and foster commerce and agriculture as the chief good. Now, in almost all respects, the French colony of Saigon contrasts most unfavourably with the neighbouring British colony of Hong-Kong. The former is, in truth, bestrewed with the seeds of decay, while the latter is, comparatively speakino-. ANNAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA. 6 overshadowed with the umbrageous branches of the tree of scarcely ever-failing commerce. The one is intersected with bad roads, the other with well-macadamised ways. The one is formed of streets of indifferent-looking houses, while the other may be called a city of palaces. Again, the streets of the former are hghted with oil, while those of the latter are resplendent with gas. In short, there is between the two colonies in question little or no comparison, the su periority of Hong-Kong being, in almost all respects, so well marked and so much more perfectly defined. Saigon, however, is not without some pleasing features. Thus, for example, it possesses a spacious and well-covered market place, and in which, for vendors of all kinds of wares, there are many convenient stalls. A visit to this place failed not to afiford us great pleasure and interest. The Palace of Justice is, also, an imposing-looking building. It is, of course, within the walls of this edifice that not only all civil causes, but charges, also, which are preferred against crimi nals, are investigated by properly constituted judges of assize. The most imposing building, however, of which Saigon can boast, is the palace of his Excellency the Governor of the colony. It is of vast extent, and equals, if not surpasses, in point of architectural design and splendour, many of the palaces of Europe. Its erection cost, as our readers may well imagine, a very considerable outlay of French capital. The pubhc gardens, too, which are in close proximity to the Gover nor's palace, are tolerably extensive. The plan in which the lawns and paths have been laid out, is an indisputable evidence of the exquisite taste and artistic skill of the de signer. To these gardens each evening of the year, the heat of the day being over, almost aU the beauty and fashion of Saigon resort for recreation ; 8.nd once or twice weekly an additional charm is imparted to this dehghtful promenade by sweet strains of music, which a military band ever and anon discourses. About the time of our visit to Saigon, these beautiful gardens were the scene of a very sad and B 2 4 ANNAM, OK COCHIN-CHINA. melancholy casualty. A French gentleman, who was one of the leading, certainly one of the most opulent, merchants of Saigon, whilst walking one evening with some friends in the gardens, without a moment's warning, fell to the ground and died. This sudden death took place in the presence of many persons, and caused, of course, no ordinary degree of con sternation and sorrow. But let us now proceed to observe that the Botanical Gardens of Saigon, which we also visited, do not display in their general arrangement the same degree of neatness and care as do the gardens to which, in the preceding sentence, we have referred. They present a forsaken and neglected appearance. Nor are the plants which they contain either sufficiently numerous or altogether rare as to afford gratifi cation to an accomplished and well-trained botanist. The zoologist, however, may find interest in visiting these gardens, inasmuch as they contain some very fine specimens not only of the natural history of Cochin-China, but of the zoology, also, of the neighbouring nations. Of the animals which these gardens contain, a tiger and tigress are pre-eminently fine specimens. They are very large beasts, and their skins are beautifully striped, and bright and glossy to a degree. There are, also, several very good specimens of leopards, wolves, bears, wild cats, snakes, ichneumons, monkeys, deer, wild cattle, goats, and wUd boars. Of the zoological treasures, however, which this garden contains, we have not as yet exhausted the list, inasmuch as no reference lias as yet been made to a very large and neatly-constructed aviary. To enumerate the various birds with which it is stocked, would tend, perhaps, to weary our readers. Let it suffice, therefore, for us to state that it contains feathered creatures of many species, and, of course, of almost every variety of size and hue. The population' of Saigon consists of French, Germans, Enghsh, Chinese, and Annamese, or Cochin-Cliinese, as they are more generally styled. Of the inhabitants in question, the Europeans are in a great minority, the Chinese and An- ANNAM, OE COCHIN-CHINA. 5 namese far outnumbering them. As French Cochin-China, of which Saigon, the capital of a province of the same name, is the chief city, is situated in lat. 9° 5' — 10" N., and long. 105° — 107° E., the heat, excepting, perhaps, during the months of October, November, and December, is very great. As a rule, therefore, aU. the European residents deem it necessary to take a siesta in the middle of the day, in order, as they say, to preserve their health. Thus from meridian until three o'clock in the afternoon there is, daily, on the part of all the European citizens of Saigon, an entire suspen sion of business and of every social emjoyment. In this unnecessary mid-day rest, or idleness, as it may be more pro- ¦ perly termed, the industrious Chinese do not indulge. On the contrary, their shops and stores are open from an early hour in the morning until a late hour in the evening, for they regard it as an imperative duty, which they owe not only to themselves but to their families, to work steadily through out the day, knowing well that the night speedily cometh when no man can work. Thus to the Chinese inhabitants of Saigon, this daily self-indulgent act appears unnecessary and uncalled for. Having inspected Saigon, we, in the next instance, went >vith Captain and Mrs. Waterson in their pony carriage along a wide but indifferently macadamised road, to the market town of Cho-len, which town is situated at a dis tance of four or five Enghsh miles from the aforesaid city of Saigon. It is a large town, and is in a gTeat measure occu pied by Chinese. Indeed for the importance whioh, as a place of trade, it to-day possesses, it is entirely indebted, not to the industry and enterprise of the French, nor yet of the Annamese, but rather to the steady mercantile perseverance of the Chinese. The staple commodity of the place is rice, a cereal of which two crops are annually reaped. Thus Cho- len is consequently one of the largest rice markets of which the eastern part of Asia can boast. The rice hongs or stores of Cho-len, which are large and numerous, are all, we need scarcely observe, in the hands of Chinese proprietors. Of the 6 ANNAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA. rice, which, as a rule, is sold in a wholesale measure at Cho- len, large quantities are conveyed to China for the service of the teeming population of the southern province of that great country. From Cho-len we returned to Saigon by a road which skirts the river. Many of the houses which we passed on our way, the dwellings of Annamese, were of very rude construction, and apparently dirty to a degree. We were, however, greatly pleased to see large fleets of native junks, with which the river at certain intervals was crowded. The vessels in question bring cargoes of rice from the producing districts, and fail not on their arrival to give employment to many hundreds of the poorer and humbler inhabitants of Saigon. After a further stay of a few days at Saigon, we made preparations for our intended tour through two or three of the most fruitful and extensive provinces of French Cochin-China, and thence into the Idngdom of Cambodia. As it was neces sary for us to perform a great part of this tour by water, we hastened to the office of a French mercantile firm, by whose steam-ship we were to travel, in order to secure our passage- On our arrival at the office in question, and upon our telling the agents of the steam-ship that we were desirous to pro ceed through French Cochin-China to Cambodia, there was, as we thought, an earnest desire, on their part, to prevail upon us, if possible, to forego all such intentions. Moreover, they pointed out to us what they termed the impossibihty of our being able, at that season of the year, to reach the Angor Wat, which is, without doubt, one of the most imposing structures of which Asia can boast, and which, as a matter of course, is, to the few tourists who travel in that part of the world, an object of the greatest interest. Being, however, very resolute, we eventually obtained our tickets, and on the following day, the 19th of January, 1875, embarked in the French steam ship " Attalo '' for the interior of Annam, or Cochin-China, aud Cambodia. Now before we enter upon the details of our voyage, it wiU, we think, be necessary for us to give a brief o ANXAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA. 7 account of the empire of Annam, or Cochin-China, aud to set forth, at the same time, the reasons why a large portion of that empire was, not many years ago, annexed to France. Annam, then, we may observe, is a nation forming a part of that portion of Eastern Asia which by geographers is termed the Indo-Chinese peninsula. It is found in 10° — 23 N. lat., and 102°— 109° E. long. As to its physical features, ^ve may observe that it is intersected by a range of mountains of no mean altitude, and that it is watered, amongst other rivers, by the Mei-Kong, which, taking its rise in the northern part of China, directs its course through Cambodia, and, after a flow of 1,700 mUes, empties itself into the sea. As to its climate, we may state that the heat is, as a rule, great and enervating. The heat of summer, however, is, in some respects, lessened by the quantity of rain which at that season falls. The respective months of October, November, and December form the most agreeable period of the year. The climate, however, is, in our humble opinion, to European con stitutions, at all events, unhealthy. And this assertion on our part is clearly supported by the vast number of dead by which the large cemetery, of a comparatively new colony is now almost filled. A large native cemetery, which we also visited, gave abundant proof of the great mortality which prevails amongst the Annamese. In the various products of the earth, the country is rich to a degree. Now the truth of this statement wiU appear when we state that vegetables of almost all kinds, together with maize, tea, sugar, tobacco, indigo, and cotton, are produced in large supplies. Of rice, indeed, as M'e have already intimated, two crops are annually reaped. With regard to the natural his tory of the country, we may mention that, in addition to the wild animals which we have already enumerated as occu pying cages or dens in the Botanical Gardens of Saigon, there are in the country elephants and rhinoceroses. As to the inhabitants, they are, without doubt, a branch of the great Caucasian race. They are short, and, though slim, are, like their neighbours, the Chinese, capable of under- 8 ANNAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA. going great bodily exertion. The women are slight in form- Their dress, which consists of long tunics, wide trowsers, and light low crowned hats of a circular shape, imparts to them a graceful appearance. Eice and salt fish are the articles of diet of which they chiefly partake. In food, however, of almost all kinds they, being utterly devoid of caste, not unfrequently partake. Having written the above particulars respecting Annam in general, let us now proceed, as proposed, to give a few of the reasons why a portion of the empire in question has become an integral part of the French dominions. It appears that in the year of grace 1787, Ghialong, who was then Emperor of Annam, being greatly harassed by the Cambodians on the one side and the inhabitants of Tonquin on the other, sought the aid of his royal contem porary, Louis the Fourteenth of France. The aid sought was granted, on the strength of a promise made by Ghialong, that on the success of French and/ Annamese arms, and the establishment of peace, he would cede to France the terri- toiy of Touran, which is on the sea coast, together with two neighbouring islands. The allied armies of Annam and France • — -and here we may pause to say that the French contingent was very small — prevailed over their enemies, and Ghialong had the satisfaction of adding to his dominions portions of the respective neighbouring states of Cambodia and Tonquin. The promise, however, which, for reasons already assigned, he had made to the Fourteenth Louis of France, was never ful filled. On the death of Ghialong, the throne of Annam was occupied by a Sovereign who manifested at all times the greatest cruelty, not only towards the French missionaries, who were seeking to propagate Christianity throughout his kingdom, but also towards all his subjects who, in defiance of his commands to the contrary, dared to embrace the doc trines which they taught. This Sovereign, on his death, was succeeded by one who surpassed him, if possible, in acts of cruel persecution towards the Jesuitical missionaries of France. At length, in the year of our Lord 1847, Thuduk ascended the ANNAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA. '•• throne of his Pagan forefathers. And no sooner had he em braced the sceptre, that he decreed that all foreign mission aries were to he seized and put to death by drowning. Nor did his furious rage against Christians stop here. The Qon- trary, indeed, was the case. For in the year of grace 1851, we find him issuing a royal command to the effect that any subject concealing a French missionary should, on detection, be disembowelled and cast into the sea. This last-mentioned decree caused, for several subsequent years, much blood to flow. An appeal for protection, on the part of the persecuted Christians, at last was made to Napoleon the Third, who in France had long ere this attained the plenitude of Imperial power. Napoleon the Third, being fully aware of the unful filled promise which years ago had been made to Louis the Fourteenth by Ghialong, resolved at once to regard this fact, together with the' persecution of French subjects in Annam, as a pretext for going to war. A war was, therefore, waged, and it did not terminate until the Emperor of Annam had agreed to cede to France in perpetuity three of his provinces, which are respectively named Saigon, Bienpoa, and Mytho, together with the Island of Pulo Condor. This annexation of Annamese territory, on the part of the- French, took place in the year of our Lord 1861. This newly-acquired colonial possession of France, however, was yet to be increased. Therefore, five pr six years later, hostilities between the two countries having been renewed, peace was granted to the Emperor of Annam on the condition of his ceding to France, the three additional provinces of Vinklong, Chandor, and Haytien — a cession which he, in order to enjoy once more the blessings of peace, was constrained to make. Thus, of the Indo-Chinese peninsula, France to-day possesses an area of 21,600 square miles, which area is occupied by a population estimated numerically at 1,204,287 souls. But of this digression, enough. Let us now hasten to describe our voyage per steam-ship " Attalo " through some of the most important provinces of French Cochin-China to Cambodia. We left Saigon, then at 10 ANNAM, OE COCHIN-CHINA. 2 a.m. Our voyage, therefore, down the Saigon river towards the open sea, was performed during hours of darkness. This, however, was no disappointment to us, as we had upon enter ing Saigon a few days previously an excellent opportunity afforded us of seeing the river, and to which stream we have, in a preceding page, made a reference. At 8 a.m. we found ourselves approaching the mouth of the Meikong. As the tide, however, at the time of our arrival was so low as to impede the further progress of our vessel, we had to let go our anchor. In the course of two or three hours the water had risen sufficiently high to enable us to proceed. We,. therefore, getting under way soon found ourselves on the, bosom of the mighty Meikong. This noble river, which majestically wends its way through valleys surpassingly rich, has its source in Yunnan, which is the south-west province of China. At various stages of its course it receives from the highlands additional supplies of water, yea, supplies so great as to constitute it a mighty stream. In Yunnan, which, as we have just intimated, is a pohtical division of the Empire of China, it flows through a valley which, in point of scenery, is said to be without a rival. On reaching lat. 16° N., it enters Cambodia, and, after directing its course through that land and the neighbouring territory of French Cochin-China, it empties itseK by three mouths into the sea. The banks of this noble river, as ap proached from the sea, are for a considerable distance covered with an almost impenetrable jungle, in which various species of the felinee tribe, together with deer, apes, monkeys, con strictors, and birds find a shelter. As we passed up the river, the vast jungle to which we have referred resounded, at frequent intervals, with the notes of birds which, to the best of our judgment, were minas. These little creatures occasionally flew as if in a state of extreme dehght from the tops of the trees on which they were perched, and after making a few graceful g}Tations in the air, once more as sumed a sitting posture. The roars, too, of some of the wild animals by which the forests are inhabited were occasionally ANNAM, OE COCHIN-CHINA. 11 heard, so it was said, by some of our fellow-voyagers. This statement, however, arose, so it appeared to us, from an ex cited imagination, rather than from fact or reality. On our arrival at Mj'tho, which is the capital city of a province of the same name, several of our fellow-voyagers debarked, and hastened to their respective homes. The majority of these travellers were Annamese youths, who had embraced the Eoman Cathohc Faith, and who had been receiving a Chris tian education in one of the French collegiate institutions at Saigon. They were neatly-dressed, and well-mannered youths, and conducted themselves throughout the short voyage with a propriety which, in many instances, we have failed to find in European lands. As the steam-ship " Attalo " was adver tised to stay at Mytho during the four or five hours imme diately following her arrival, we, also, resolved to debark. We were accompanied in our debarkation by Major Henry, a French officer of distinction. This gallant officer was, at the time of which we are speaking, a district magistrate in one of the provinces of French Cochin-China, and he was returning to his post from Saigon, whither he had been summoned to pass an examination in the language of the country. The result of this examination showed that he was a firsl^class man. On landing he escorted us to the residence of the French governor or commissioner of Mytho, where we were received courteously by that personage. The commis sioner, however, upon learning that it was our intention to travel through French Cochin-China and Cambodia on our way to the famous ruin styled Angor Wat, manifested, as we thought, a desire to frustrate, if possible, our views. He assured us in a most magisterial manner that the gratification of our desires could not be accomplished, as the waters of the great lake of Thay-lay-sap had fallen to such a degree as to render their navigation a matter of impossibility. As the lake in question may be regarded as the high way to the ruins of Angor Wat, we felt for a moment disappointed. A little reflection, however, speedily assured us that the remark which the commissioner had made was simply another proof 12 ANNAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA. of French jealousy, and that he regarded us either in the light of English Government spies, or as ecclesiastics of the Church of England in search of Protestant missionary stations. On expressing a wish to inspect the town of Mytho, we were at once escorted by the commissioner through the place in question. It is very small, and ought to be designated, so we think, a village rather than a town. The market-place, which, in short, constitutes the town, is in the form of a parallelogram. It consists of cottages, which are built of reeds, and the floors of which are, in the majority of instances, raised two or three feet above the ground. In some of these cottages we ob served porcelain and coarse earthenware vessels exposed for sale, whilst in others wearing apparel and native hats and shoes were arranged with a degree of care and neatness so as to tempt the indifferently-clad members _ of the community to expend a little money in re-clothing themselves. A large church of masonry of brickwork stands near to the marke1> place. It is to the courts of this sanctuary that, at the sound of the church-going bell, all natives who have been converted to the faith of Him, whom to know is life eternal, have recourse for prayer. This sacred edifice, standing as it does in a remote corner of a pagan land, was to us a novel sight. The residence of the commissioner is a tall, stately-looking mansion of brick, and the grounds in which it stands are laid out with some degree of care and taste. The roads by which Mytho are approached are fringed on each side by long rows of cocoa- nut trees. These trees, though by no means umbrageous, fail not, nevertheless, in imparting to the traveller more or less shade. Again, they certainly give to the roads, by the sides of which they are planted, an appearance of neatness and attention which otherwise they would not possess. The hour for our departure from Mytho having arrived, we, together with Major Henry, re-embarked on board the steam-ship "Attalo," and proceeded on our voyage to Vinklono-. On our arrival at the city in question, which is, also, the capital of a province of the same name, we again debarked, and, having Major Henry for our guide, hastened to inspect ANNAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA. IM the town and its environs. The first object of interest to which our attention was directed was au ancient Annamese fortification, which consisted of four broad mounds or breast works of earth, and was approached on each side by folding gates. It was here during the war which the French waged with the Annamese that one of the most determined resist ances, on the part of the Annamese, was offered to their foreign foes. With regard to the town of Vinklong it is, perhaps, very inferior in all respects to that of Mytho. It is, however, ap parently the scene of active missionary labours on the part of French priests, many of whom we saw in the town and its neighbourhood. Again, the French garrison of Vinklong was, we thought, greater than that of Mytho. Near to the barracks, which are insignificant, we saw a large cowhouse, in which several fine Annamese oxen were stalled. These animals were intended to supply the tables of the soldiers with sir loins and other joints of meat. The duty of tending upon these oxen was being discharged, in a great measure, by two or three Annamese prisoners, who, owing to the chains by which their lower extremities were fettered, failed, we thought, in completing their task with alacrity and effect. Having taken leave of Major Henry, whose learning and courteous manner we greatly appreciated, we again embarked on board the steam-ship " Attalo," and hastened on our voyage to the city of Phnom-Peng, which is the metropolis of Cam bodia. No sooner had we got under way than the com mander of the " Attalo " introduced us to a French priest, who had joined as a passenger our ship's company at Vinklong. At first he was courteous in his deportment towards us, but upon learning that we were Protestants, and connected with the Church of England, his politeness was imniediately suc ceeded by rudeness. With an authoritative manner, which savoured not a little of the cruel and diabolical inquisition of old, he asked the object of our visit to Cambodia, and received with much apparent incredulity our assurances that we were simply in search of pleasure. He, too, was evidently afraid 14 ANNAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA. that we were about to estabhsh missionary stations in a land which the Church of Eome regards as peculiarly her own. Our intercourse with this narrow-minded ecclesiastic now ceased, and we saw no more of him until our arrival at Phnom- Peng, which took place on the morning of the following day. As he was in the very act of debarking, he observed that the commander of the steam-ship " Attalo " was holding a con versation with us. He, therefore, hastened to the part of the deck on which we were standing, and, very respectfully, took leave of the commander. He looked upon us, however, as he withdrew from the presence of the commander, with a scowl, which caused us to feel that, in his estimation at aU events, we were the very dregs of society, and the scum of the earth. 15 Chapter II. CAMBODIA. Arrival at Phnom-Peng — Debarkation — HospitaUty of his Excellency the French Protector — King of Cambodia grants us an interview — Deport ment of the King — Conversation — The Palace — Throne Eoom — Theatre — Body Guard — Eoyal Stables — White Elephants — Iron Palace — - Funeral Pyre — Interview with the Second King — Conversation — Cam bodia has suffered from CivU Wars — Summary Execution of a Eebel Chieftain — Arch-Abbot of Buddliism — Prison and Prisoners — Wats or Temples— Chinese Temples — Account of Kwan-tai, God of War — Streets of Phnom-Peng — Merchants — Pariah Dogs — Commercial Pro ducts of the Country — Forests — Gutta-percha Tree — Beasts of Burden — EeUgion of the Cambodians — An accoimt of Buddha — Tenets of Buddha — Cambodian Marriage Ceremony — Funeral Ceremonies — Cremation — Games and Amusements — Journey into the Interior of Cambodia — Eiver Mesap — Birds — Ichneumon — Town of Kum-poong-Loong — Wat or Temple — Market Place — Salt Fish — Fish OU — Funeral Procession — Kum-poong-he-leik — Trading Vessels — Purchase a Fat Pig — Kum-poo- chee-nong — Floating Houses — Water Vessels and Furnaces — A Marriage — A PUot wanted — Monkeys — Great Lake of Thay-lay-Sap — Many Birds — Province of Siamrap — Journey from the head of the Lake to Siamrap City — Accommodation at Siamrap — Death of Wife of Govemor of Siamrap — Dine with the Govemor— Theatricals — City of Siamrap — Eide on an Elephant — Euins of Angor- Wat — ^Ancient City of Angor- Tam — Ceremony observed on a Cambodian Youth attaining the age of Puberty — Our return to Phnom-Peng. Having arrived at Phnom-Peng, and the good ship " Attalo " having let go her anchor, we, in due course of time, for warded, by the purser of- the vessel who was going ashore, a letter of introduction which had been given to us, and which was addressed to his Excellency the French Protector at Phnom-Peng. We, at the same time, forwarded to his Excel lency the Protector letters of presentation addressed to His Majesty Norodom the First, King of Cambodia, and which letters had most kindly been given to us prior to our depar- 16 CAMBODIA. ture from Hong Kong, by his Excellency Sir Arthur Ken nedy, the able and much esteemed governor of that colony. Ere three hours had elapsed, two French gentlemen came on board the " Attalo," and informed us that, for our reception, rooms had been made ready at the residence of the French Protector. We accordingly entered a four-oared boat, which, long before it had reached the wharf, was so full of water, owing to its leaky state, as to be in an alraost sinking condition. On our arrival at the wharf, it was discovered that in consequence of the overflowings of the Meikong, it was impossible for us to land there. Long planks or boards had, therefore, to be placed between an old hulk, over the sides of which we had scrambled, and the shore. This task having been effected, it now remained for us, in order to reach the shore, to walk along the planks in question. No sooner, however, had we reached the centre of one of these long boards, than it showed signs of breaking into pieces. The boatmen seeing the position in which we had inad vertently placed ourselves, quickly rushed to our rescue, and by placing themselves, as so many pillars under the planks, secured for us a safe landing. On our arrival at the residence of his Excellency the French Protector, we were most kindly received and enter tained by that gentleman. He also told us that our letter of presentation had been forwarded to His Majesty the King, and that a reply had been received to the effect that our presence was required at the palace that same evening, at half-past five o'clock. At the hour appointed we, together with the French Protector and Mr. Eosenthal, an Enghshman, who speaks the language of Cambodia with great fluency, repaired to the palace. On our arrival we found three or four of the leading officials of the city or ministers of state, who were kneeling on the steps by which the door of the palace is approached, in expectation of receiving their royal master's commands. By two or three native servants we were ushered into a well furnished drawing-room. After a pause of a few moments, the approach of the King was an- CAMBODIA. 17 nounced, and no sooner had he entered the apartment than we were most courteously presented to him by his Excellency the French Protector. His Majesty, whose outward manners and bearing are equal to those of an European Prince, received us in a very gracious manner. After a few ordinary remarks, he requested that the letters of presentation which, as we have elsewhere observed had been kindly given to us by Sir Arthur Kennedy, prior to our departure from Hong- Kong, should be translated into the Cambodian tongue, and read aloud in his hearing. This duty ]\lr. Eosen thal very cleverly discharged. "Whereupon His Majesty observed that our presence at Phnom-Peng was to him a source of pleasure, inasmuch as it reminded him of the great hospitality which, on the occasion of his visit to Hong-Kong a few years before, he had received at the hands of Sir Arthur Kennedy. He then enquired if Sir Arthur Kennedy were well. This question having been answered in the affirmative, he enquired after Lady Kennedy, and upon being told that she had recently died, he was evidently moved with feehngs of sympathy, and for a minute or two made no further remarks. Eventually our conversation, which ex tended over half an hour, became very animated. At its close, wine contained in silver goblets having been presented to us, we begged to take leave. It having been suggested, however, to His Majesty by Mr. Eosenthal that we had a desire to see the interior arrangements of his palace, he without the shghtest hesitation acquiesced in our wishes, and, taking a position at the head of om- party, graciously escorted us from room to room. On the panels of the hbrary, which contains some excellent European works, and which was one of the first rooms we entered, are paiated, in bright colours, representations of the fleur-de-hs of France and the rose of England. The dining hah which is a room of ordinary size, is well furnished, and not far from it there is a bilhard- room, which is replete with an excellent bilhard-table, cues, marking board, and every other requisite. At the foot of the staircase by which the upper rooms are approached, there c 18 CAMBODIA. stands on a pedestal a large silver gilt image of Venus. In two or three of the upper rooms there are sideboards or cabinets, which are literally fiUed with golden vessels of various kinds for the service of guests. Amongst these vessels we observed a large golden betel-nut case, which was most elaborately carved. Vessels of the kind to which we have just referred, whether of gold, or silver, or brass, are found in the dwelhngs of all Cambodians. Nor is this a source of wonder, inasmuch as the Cambodians are, perhaps, of all people, the greatest eaters of betel-nuts. Again, in one of the principal bed-rooms which we inspected there is a toilet service of gold. In the same chamber we also observed a large sheU mounted with gold, and which, if we mistake not, is used at the time of ablution for pouring water upon the head. In an upstair room, which we last entered, we observed on the wall a portrait of Louis the Sixteenth of France. This appeared to us very strange. We thought, however, that it might serve as a useful memento to His Majesty of Cambodia, and inspire him with reflexions of a nature calculated to preclude the possibihty of his coming to so direful and ignominious an end. This picture was not by any means a sohtary one. This wiU appear when we state that the walls of many of the rooms which we entered, were adorned by European oil paintings of various kinds and sizes. In one of these rooms, too, we saw some French pictures, which in design were, we regret to say, indelicate. Mirrors, also, of European manufacture, are evi dently, in the estimation of His Majesty, necessary append ages to the walls of a palace. For of such articles we noticed not a few. The throne-room which we next visited is a fine building of its kind. It is built of bricks, is in the form of a paraUelogram, and is covered with a roof of red tUes. This roof is supported by lofty piUars. The exterior waUs of the gables are gilded. The throne, which is made of hard wood, is elaborately carved and richly ornamented. It consists of tiers, each of which is supported by wooden figures representing fiends. Above the throne is placed a CAMBODIA. 19 large umbreUa, or canopy of seven folds. Not far from the throne, which occupies a position almost at the end of the room, there stands a smaU gUded pavilion. This pavihon, the object or use of whieh no one could explain to us, is raised upon a curiously carved aud richly gilded base of wood. From the' throne-room, we passed to a theatre, an edifice of this nature being ever regarded as a necessary appendage to an Eastern palace. The stage, which is of great length, was covered with matting. The pit, which is set apart for the soldiers, and which is between the stage and the royal boxes, is not particularly spacious. And as to the boxes for the use of the Eoyal family, they may perhaps be • more correctly understood by a reference on the part of our readers, to the foUowing diagram rather than . to any description which it is in our power to give : — King. Wives of 1st ranis. Officers of iBt ranlt. Wives of 2iicl raalt. Officers of 2n(l ranli. Wives of 3rd ranJs. Officers of 3rd ranl£. Pit for Soldiers. / Stage. \ But let us now remark that there are many palatial resi dences within the palace grounds for the service of ladies, servants, and slaves, and to which of course access on our part could not be gained. c 2 20 CAMBODIA. On leaving the palace, the terrace of which is sur mounted by a huge telescope and a flag-pole, the latter bearing the royal standard of Cambodia, the King accom panied us to the royal stables. They contained several horses of English and other breeds. Of these animals, however, there was not one which we could say was at all handsome. In short, they had, almost one and aU, a jaded and neglected appearance. The best steeds in the stables were perhaps two grey carriage horses, which had been presented to His Cam bodian Majesty by Napoleon the Third of France. As we now crossed the court-yard of the pMace on our way to inspect two white, and therefore sacred, elephants, we saw a Cambodian sergeant-major busily engaged in teaching several soldiers, his countrymen, the arts of war as practised by European troops. These men, who formed as we were told, the household brigade, were tolerably expert at their new drill. On our arrival at the place where the two white elephants are kept, we observed that they were treated with great care and attention, each being well fed, and sheltered under a partiaUy enclosed pavilion. As a further mark of respect, princely titles had, by the King, been con ferred upon these ponderous beasts of the forest. We were not a Uttle surprised, however, to find that they were of a coffee or chocolate rather than of a white colour. Upon the ears of each there were, it is true, two or three white spots ; but such marks were, of course, in our opinion very far from justifying the fact of their being designated white elephants. They manifested much displeasure at our presence, but as they were well secured to the staUs in which they were standing, we were in a position to inspect them, leisurely, and without alarm. The King having presented us with a beautiful photograph of an iron palace which he was daily expecting to arrive from Europe, and which it was his intention to erect in close proximity to the palace which we have attempted to describe, we respectfully begged to take leave. As we were withdrawing. His Majesty, who had been made aware of CAMBODIA. 21 our desire to travel through his kingdom, was so gracious as to state that he would, for that purpose, not only pro vide us with boats and other means of traveUing, but that he would also send letters to governors and other officers of his kingdom, commanding them to further our wishes to the utmost extent. To these gracious promises and assur ances we, in acknowledgment, made profound bows and with drew. On our return from the palace to the residence of the French Proctector we observed by the way a number of workmen who were engaged in erecting a large and im posing structure. The buUding in question is intended, if we mistake not, as a funeral pyre on which to burn — crema tion being a Cambodian custom — the corpses of members of the royal famUy. But of this custom we shaU, on a future page of this work, have occasion to speak at greater length. We dismiss it, therefore, for the present without any further remark, and hasten to dweU on visits which we paid on the foUowing day to other notables and on our explorations of the city of Phnom-Peng. In accordance, then, with this intention, let us state that we caUed upon another royal personage, a brother of the Sovereign, and who is desig nated by the title of Second King. He received us gladly, and in the course of an animated conversation which ensued, and which was ably conducted by Mr. Eosenthal, of whom we have already spoken, he deplored greatly the loss, in times past, of so much Cambodian territory. The loss of the rich province caUed Siam-rap, and which now forms a part of the neighbouring kingdom of Siam, he especiaUy regretted. He thought, however, that by the kindly intervention of Great Britain and France it might yet be restored to the kingdom of his royal forefathers. He at length concluded his remarks by observing that the great territorial losses which Cambodia had sustained, were to be attributed, in a great measure, to the poUtical dissensions which had ever and anon arisen between the Cambodian Princes. This last remark gxeatly amused us, as this very Prince was himseU 22 CAMBODIA. the cause of a rebeUion, which, in the year of our Lord 1863, much disturbed the peace and good order of Cambodia. He sought to usurp the throne of his brother, and, in the insur rectionary war which ensued, was unsuccessful, and obliged to seek safety by flight. He fled to Siam, and proceeded thence to Saigon, which is, as we have already stated, the capital of French Cochin-China. Here he was kindly re ceived by his ExceUency the French Governor ; and with a view to a reconciUation being effected between the King of Cambodia and this rebeUious and fugitive Prince, the latter was requested by the French Governor to ''go on board a French frigate, and to proceed to Phnom-Peng. This re quest the once rebeUious, but now penitent Prince obeyed. On his arrival, however, at Phnom-Peng the King, his brother, refused to receive him, and gave orders that he was not to debark, but to return again to Saigon. Through the mediation of the French authorities, however, a recon cUiation was at length effected between the hitherto beUi gerent brothers, and they are now Uving in peace at the same city. And here we may pause to observe that the rebeUion, or attempt at rebellion, to which we have just refeiTed, is not the only poUtical movement of the kind which has arisen to disturb the equanimity of the present King's reign. Thus, for example, in the year of our Lord 1866 a rebel chieftain, who was named Poo-kam-boh, endeavoured to deprive his Ma jesty of the throne. This daring rebel, however, was not only overcome, but captured in the province of Kam-poongh- swye, and immediately hanged by the neck from a branch of the nearest tree. Death having taken place, the head of this traitorous chieftain was severed from the body, and forwarded in a bag of salt to Phnom-Peng as a suitable present to the King. In obedience to royal commands, the head in question was removed from the bag of salt, placed upon a long pole, and exposed, as a warning to others, in one of the thorough fares of the city. Of its fleshy covering it was quickly denuded by the birds of the air. Eventually it fell from its CAMBODU. 23 elevated position, and became, by the law of appropriation, the property of a French merchant who was then residing at Phnom-Peng. On the death of this French merchant his effects, together with the skuU of the traitorous Poo-kam-boh, were sold by public auction. But of this digression enough. Let us hasten, therefore, to state that ere we took leave of the second King he graciously showed us the lower rooms of his palace and the throne-room. The latter apartment, Uke the palace of which it is an appendage, is not at aU conspicuous for grandeur, extreme simplicity being, perhaps, its leading characteristic. Above the throne is placed an umbrella or canopy of five folds or fringes, in contradistinction to the umbrella or canopy of the first King's throne, which, as we have elsewhere stated, consists of seven folds or fringes. Whilst inspecting this pubhc haU the second King told us, amongst other items of political inteUigence, that the present dynasty of Cambodia had reigned during a period of twelve or thirteen hundred years, and that his brother, the present king, was a descendant of a leprous King, to whom hereafter we shaU have occasion to refer. On leaving, amidst many pohte bows and gracious words, the palace of the second King, we repaired to the residence of the Arch Abbot of Buddhism, which eastern faith or doctrine is the national reUgion of Cambodia. This worthy bonze, who is said to be without a rival either in Cambodia or Siam in respect to his attainments as a Buddhistical and Sanscrit scholar, received us very courteously. Our con versations with him, however, had a much greater reference to the antiquities of Cambodia than to the doctrines of the religion, of which, in that part of the world at aU events, he is the recognized head. Thus, in speaking of the great archi tectural monument styled Angor Wat, a noble ruin, of which we shall have occasion in a subsequent part of this work to write more fully, he positively asserted that it was not more than fourteen hundred years old, and that it was the " sleepiag palace " of a Cambodian king caUed Preh-kite-mee-eh-Meh, a name which, in the language of Cambodia, signifies " Head 24 CAMBODIA. as fragrant as the most beautiful and odoriferous flower." He further stated that this monarch, in the gratification of an enthusiastic devotion to the religion of Buddha, dedi cated his building to the service of the followers of Buddhism. The place which we next visited was a most dilapidated prison. It was constructed, in a great measure, of reeds and wood, and was, apparently, so insecure as a prison-house as to cause the gaoler to make fast, nightly, the feet of his prisoners in the stocks. Thus, for example, in one ceU which we visited there was a pair of stocks running the whole length of the ceU, and in which, during each night, the feet of all the unfortunate inmates of the ceU were raade fast. The stocks in question were so arranged as to skirt the end of a long bed of boards on which, in a row, aU the prisoners slept. On the occasion of our visit to this cell aU the prisoners, men and women, were sitting on their bed of boards, and were engaged, with the view, we suppose, of making the period of their imprisonment as agreeable as possible, in handiwork of various kinds. As the aUowance of food which, in Cambodian prisons, prisoners receive is infini- tesimaUy smaU, they are suffered at an early hour in the morning of each day throughout the year, to visit the market places, and to demand from the provision-dealers therein assembled a few of the common necessaries of life. Thus at the time and in the place specified, it is not unusual to see some of these malefactors in search of various creature com forts. A deaf ear on the part of provision-dealers to the moderate demands of these unfortunate men, would be re garded as a violation of the law. They are not, therefore, sent back to prison with empty hands. They are, of course, not only heavUy manacled when foraging in this manner, but are, also, as a rule, under the immediate supervision of turnkeys. The temples, or wats as they are termed, next demanded our attention. Of the edifices in question, the first to which we directed our steps is one apparently of great antiquity. It is situated on the summit of a high mound of earth. This temple, being in a most dUapidated state, did not at aU repay CAMBODIA. 25 our visit. From the top of the mound, however, on which it stands, we had a very extensive view of the river Meikong, and of a smaU section of the country through which it directs its course. Descending this hiU, which is evidently artificial, we visited another temple, the gables of which were adorned with gUded emblems of various kinds, and within the waUs there stood a large gilded idol of Buddha. The most marked features of this figure were its eyes and finger nails, all of which were made of mother-o'-pearl. On leaving this temple we visited, in succession, three Chinese temples, which have been erected by the Chinese citizens of Phnom-Peng in honour of the foUowing Chinese deities : Hung- Wong, Kwantai, and Tu-ti. And here we may men tion that in passing through one of the principal streets of the city, on our way to the last mentioned temple, we heard a great noise proceeding from one of the houses. On entering this domicUe, in order to ascertain the cause of the din, we saw a woman trampling, yea, hteraUy dancing, upon the prostrate body of a man. In her hand she held a cup of wine, and of which she frequently drank. She did not, how ever, swaUow the wine ; on the contrary, she ejected it from her mouth over the body of the man who was under her feet. Two or three musicians were in attendance, who, by beating drums and sounding trumpets or horns, added greatly to the noise. This woman was an exorcist, and the poor man upon whose body she was dancing, was a sick and afflicted creature. Out of him she was endeavouring; by the observance of this singular ceremony, to eject a devil, who was regarded as the immediate cause of aU his sufferings. Having afterwards inspected several of the principal shops and stores of the city, and having made a few suitable purchases as mementoes of our visit, we returned to the hospitable residence of our worthy host His ExceUency the Protector, where we were enlivened by the strains of his Majesty the King's brass band. The French and other foreign residents at Phnom-Peng, knowing that we had resided for several years in China, veiy 26 CAMBODIA. naturally asked us to give them some information respecting the three Chinese idols, in honour of which the Chinese merchants and shopkeepers residing in Cambodia, had erected the temples to which we have referred. Of the deity Kwantai, then, M'e gave the foUowing account: — He was, when in the flesh, a member of the family or clan Kwan, and when a youth was distinguished by the name of Kwan-Yu. Upon attaining man's estate, he was caUed Kwan-Wan-Chaong. Towards the close of the Eastern Han dynasty, that is, about the year of our Lord 221, our hero was a general officer in the imperial army of China. To the then reigning Emperor, Hien-ti, and to the subjects of that Prince, he rendered great services by the signal success which crowned his arms when engaged in a war with a large and powerful body of insur gents. It was the desire of these rebels to overthrow the reign ing dynasty, and to place on the vacant throne their leader, who was named Lui-Mung. The Emperor had a cousin named Lou-See who, like the Emperor Maximinus of Eoman history, was possessed of great bodUy strength. There flourished at this same period, a valiant warrior named Chong-Fee, who, according to' native historians, was also of great stature and of great strength. These two men, who for their devoted at tachment to the reigning family were pre-eminent, grieved beyond measure, when they heard of the ruin and devastation which the insurgent forces were everywhere spreading. With the view, therefore, of bringing to a close consequences so disastrous to the kingdom, they resolved to form a powerful army, and, with Kwan-Wan-Chaong at the head thereof, to prosecute with unabated vigour against the insurgent forces, a war of extermination. This imperial army was no sooner enroUed than it was caUed upon to take the field against these cruel disturbers of peace and good order. In a series of battles which then ensued, it was invariably successful, and in the space of five years had succeeded in recovering a large portion of the imperial dominions which had faUen under the hitherto triumphant banners of the rebel chieftain, Lui-Mung. Kwan-Wan-Chaong, to whose able generalship CAMBODIA. 27 these great and decisive victories were attributed, received at the hands of his royal master many marks of favour, and was, eventually, raised to the office of viceroy or governor- general of a tract of country which at that time was called Soo-Kwong, but which now forms a portion of the province of Sze-Chuen. This exalted and important office he for several years filled with honour to the Emperor and credit to himself The peace, however, which, owing to the great mUitary skiU of Kwan-Wan-Chaong, the Empire had obtained and for sorae time enjoyed, was once more to be disturbed. This wUl appear when we state that the rebel chieftain, Lui- Mung, though vanquished, was not in despair. During the few years which immediately followed his defeat he had, in his retirement, been secretly forming a large army and con cocting measures of a nature weU calculated, as he supposed, to crown with success any future attempts on his part to regain the dominions which he had before usurped, and from which, by the superior military genius of Kwan-Wan-Chaong he had been so ignominiously driven. He resolved to attack the imperial forces by land and water. Feeling, however, that Kwan-Wan-Chaong as a general officer was, in his know ledge and practice of mihtary tactics, superior to him, he deter mined that the attack should assume a strategical form. He destroyed, therefore, aU the beacons which crowned the sum mits of the various hiUs beyond which it would be necessary for his land forces to march, and thereby precluded the pos sibiUty of an announcement being made to Kwan-Wan- Chaong of the near approach of an invading_army. His ships of war were, also, in accordance with his commands, rigged as ships of merchandise, in order that along the rivers and creeks intersecting that portion of the Empire which he was so anxious to re-vanquish, they might have a free and unin terrupted passage. He also hoped that his vessels under such a guise as that to which we have just referred, would be able to attack and take by surprise a large fleet of imperial war junks which were then guarding all the approaches by water to King-Chow, the capital city of the vast district over 28 CAMBODIA. which, as viceroy, Kwan-Wan-Chaong waS swaying the sceptre of almost regal power. These stratagems on the part of Lui-Mung proved suc cessful, for the imperial troops, being taken unawares, fled, horror-stricken, in all directions. Many of them were slain, and amongst the killed was the hitherto invincible warrior, Kwan-Wan-Chaong. His surviving companions-in-arms being desirous that he should receive the honour of canonization, persuaded the people that he, mounted on a red horse, and holding in his hand a large sword, had been seen to pass through the air. To his manes the ordinary honours were at once paid ; and subsequently, at the command of Chaulieh-ti, who, as first sovereign of the After Han dynasty, ascended the throne of China, a.d. 221, and died after a reign of two years, the posthumous title of Tai-Chung-Kwan was conferred upon him. He was not canonized untU the reign of Chin-tsung, who, as third sovereign of the Sung dynasty, ascended the throne of China, a.d. 998, and died after a reign of twenty-five years. During the reign in question, the numerous salt-weUs in the province of Shan-si, and which, to the inhabitants of that region, are a source of great wealth, became dry. The people were, in consequence, greatly dis tressed, and, at the same time, quite at a loss to account for a calamity so direful The Emperor, who gxeatly commise rated his suflfering subjects, summoned into his presence the cabinet ministers, with the view of obtaining if possible at their hands, an explanation of this mysterious circumstance. Like the magicians of Egypt, however, who were caUe"d into the presence of Pharoah to explain the nature of that sove reign's dreams, they were miable to unravel this singular and unprecedented event. The Emperor had, then, recourse for advice to the Chaong-Tin-Sze, or arch-abbot of the religious sect of Tau. This arch-abbot of Tauism replied that the drying-up of the salt-weUs was caused by an evil spirit named Chee-Yow, and that if his Imperial Majesty were at aU desirous to counteract the sad influences of this imp of heU, he must invoke the aid of Kwan-Wan-Chaong, who was CAMBODIA. 29 then in the world of spirits, and not only in the possession and enjoyment of kingly power, but having also, under his comraand, many legions of warlike spirits. To this counsel on the part of the arch-abbot of the sect of Tau, the Emperor gave heed, and on the subject-matter of the conversation which had taken place between them, wrote a despatch to Kwan-Wan-Chaong. This despatch was no sooner written than it was committed, with the view of its being forwarded to the departed hero for whom it was intended, to the flames of a sacred fire. And here, let us state, that in the opinion of the Chinese, aU communications intended for the spirit world are conveyed thither through the raediura of fire. It is, further, recorded in Chinese annals, that an hour had scarcely elapsed when Kwan-Wan-Chaong, mounted on his red-coloured charger, was seen passing through the air for the purpose of granting aid against all the spiritual adversaries of his Imperial Majesty, the Emperor of China. Kwan-Wan-Chaong, on presenting himself to the Emperor, observed that before entering into a conflict with these legions of darkness, it would be necessary, in order to secure success, for aU the subjects of his Majesty who were then residing in the vicinity of the salt-weUs which, by satanic influence, had heen dried up, to close the doors of tlieir respective houses, and not, on any account, to open thera during the seven days iraraediately ensuing. They were, also, requested not to leave their dweUings during the period already specified. To these suggestions on the part of Kwan-Wan-Chaong, the people', at the command of his Majesty, promised to give heed. All the necessary preliminaries having now been arranged, this raighty warrior from the spirit-world, Standing at the head of his legions, opened the campaign against the powers of darkness. For seven days the darkness of night prevaUed. The people who were shut up in their respective dweUing-houses were aware, by the great noise which rent the air, that a fierce battle was being waged by the good spirits on the one side, and by the evU spirits on the other. The result of this conflict was a signal and decisive victory 30 CAMBODIA. on the side of Kwan-Wan-Chaong. The spirits of darkness having been, by him, annihilated, the salt-weUs not only becarae once more productive, but of their contents brought forth still greater supplies. For the important services which, to the state, Kwan-Wan-Chaong had rendered, the Emperor, Chin-tsung, conferred upon him the title of Yee- Yong-Mow-On-Wong. In honour of him, and near to the tomb in which, centuries before, his remains had been in terred, a teraple was erected by Chin-tsung. Temples, how ever, in honour of this canonised hero upon whom an Em peror of the present dynasty conferred the additional title of Chung- Yee-Fok-Mo-Kwan-Sing-Tai-Kwan, are now, through out the empire of China, very nuraerous. The city of Phnom-Peng is not by any means an im posing place. Many of the shops and dweUing-houses of which it is formed are constructed of reeds or bamboo-rods and thatch. There is one street, however, the main street, which consists of houses of masonry of brickwork. The houses in question are dweUings of a very inferior kind, and though they afford a corafortable shelter to a few of the raore opulent citizens, they fail, nevertheless, to impart an imposing appearance to the town. ¦The principal merchants and shopkeepers, not to speak of the French, are Chinese. Without them, Phnom-Peng, as a .place of trade, would not be so prosperous as she is, appa rently, at the present time. Thus it is to the industrious sons of Han that the city of Phnom-Peng is, in many re spects, indebted for the measure of prosperity which it now enjoys. Before, however, we close our reraarks on this city, let us not faU to mention the fact that the streets are daUy • visited by many dogs, which, owing to the anger they mani fest towards strangers are, if the strangers be not armed with sticks, highly objectionable animals with which to come in contact. They are dogs of the pariah class, and the food upon which they live is the offal or garbage which the inha- tants cast into the streets. For a division of food of this CAMBODIA. 31 nature, the fights which arise between these hungry animals are often fierce and protracted. The ravens, too, are very numerous, and are, in sorae respects, as great a nuisance as the pariah dogs. They are, however, together with the dogs, raost excellent scavengers, removing as they do from the streets much matter which, if left to decay, might prove raost pernicious to the health of the inhabitants. But it is now tirae for us to enter upon a description of our trip into the interior of Carabodia. Before, however, we do so, it may, perhaps, be necessary for us to give a brief account of some of the leading characteristics of that country. This kingdom, then, which was at one tirae a feudal depen dency of Siam, is situated to the north and east of French Cochin-China, and although ruled by its own sovereign, is under the immediate protection of the French Government. It consists, in a great measure, of undulating plains, which are cooled and fertilised by the river Meikong and its raany tributary " streams. The various commercial products of the country may be enumerated as foUows : — SUk, cotton, cane-sugar, palm-sugar, tobacco, rice, maize, ginger, gam boge, indigo, cardamuras, pepper, cocoa-nuts, gutta-percha, gura-arabic, aniseed, betel-nuts, areca-nuts, cocoa-nut oil, ground-nut oil, fish oil, wood oU, cochineal, and salt fish. Now, before we proceed further, it may be weU to observe that betel-nut, which we have mentioned as forming one of the coramercial products of the country, is throughout the country, and on the part of both sexes, an almost universal masticatory. On the tables of the poor, as well as of the rich, there are vessels containing it, and it is, as an invariable rule, the first thing of which, on entering a house, you are invited to partake. The vessels in which, in the houses of wealthy persons, it is kept, are made of silver, and in some instances, of gold. So beautiful are they in work manship and design, as to ornaraent the tables on which they stand. The consumption of tobacco by smoking is, also, very great. The roads by which the country is intersected cannot, for 32 CAMBODIA. one moment, be compared with the weU-macadamised roads of Great Britain: they contrast, however, most favourably with the roads of several other Asiatic countries which we had the pleasure to visit. The bridges, also, by which the rivers or creeks are spanned, are, in ahnost aU cases, weU built structures of masonry of brickwork. The forests are very extensive, and contain trees of many varieties. Of the most valuable trees which these forests contain, we may mention the scented eagle wood, ebony, rosewood, ironwood, poon, walnut, teak, and turban. The last-named tree is the plant from which gutta-percha is obtained, and is, therefore, deserving of especial notice. It is a tree of no ordinary dimensions, having a trunk which, in point of circumference, varies from 7 to 10 feet. Its branches, too, are wide spreading. Mr. Cameron, in speaking of this tree in his exceUent work, entitled " Om- Tropical Possessions ia Malayan India," says as follows : — " It flourishes luxuriantly in the aUuvial tracts which he between the hUl ranges, and forms in matny locaUties the chief foUage of the jungle. " UnUke the means adopted by the Burmese to obtain the caoutchouc, the gutta-percha or turban-tree is not tapped merely, but cat down and absolutely destroyed to obtain its juice. It is stated that the quantity of juice obtained by tapping the Uve tree is so smaU that it would never remu nerate the search for it. " This is much to be regretted ; the tree is of very slow growth, and under the present systera, which requires the destruction of ten trees to produce 1 cwt., the supply must sooner or later faU short from the forests of the peninsula, as it has already done from those in the Island of Singapore. The Malays obtain the gutta-percha in the following manner: — A fuU-grown tree, which must be 20 or 30 years of age at least, is cut down, and the sraaller branches cleared away ; round the bark of the trunk and the larger branches, circular incisions are raade at a distance from one another of a CAMBODIA. :).i foot or foot and a-half Umler each of these rings a cocoa- nut shell or some other vessel is placed to receive the juice which, exuding from round the cut, trickles down and drops from the under part of the tree. In a few days the tree has giveu forth its life-blooil. The juice in the ^'essels is then collected into pitchers made of the joints of the larger baraboo, aud com'eyod to the huts of the collectors, ^\•here it is placed in a large cauldron and boiled so as to steam off the water wluch mixes with the juice, and to clear it of impurities. After boiling, it assumes its marketable consistency, and is brought in for sale. " The introduction of the article to the world as a mer chantable commodity is due to Singapore. About 21 years ago attention A\'as directed to the coach-whips and to the A-arious otiier articles M-hich were hawked about the town by the i\Ialays, made of a peculiar elastic gum, differing essen tiaUy from caoutchouc. Specimens of the gum were sent home, and wdien its valuable qualities were acknowledged, a search for the tree from which the gum was obtained, com menced. " At that time the jungles of Singapore were well stocked with thera, but thej- rapidly disappeared before the iucreased deoiand for the article, and now very few remain. One of the uses to which it was put by the Malays before it obtained European notice, was in the composition of a sort of bird-lime, with which animals as well as birds were captured. " The tenacity of this composition is described as some thing extraordinary, and a story is told of its being used suc cessfully in the capture of a tiger. 'A raan having been killed by one of these animals, the body ^vas left upon the spot, and a large quantity of this gutta bird-lime disposed on and about it ; all round at a few paces distant the chaff" of paddy was thickly strewed, and more bird-lime applied. Tlie animal returned to finish his repast, and his moutli and claws were soon clogged by the bird-lime, while quantities stuck to his body. To get rid of this annoyance, he I'oUed liimself 34 CAMBODIA. in his rage on the chaff, which soon swelled his body to a most portentous bulk ; and after having exhausted himself in fruitless exertions, he was easUy killed.' "* The beasts of burden, which we met on the high roads of Cambodia, were horses or galloways, oxen, water buffaloes, and elephants. The horses or gaUoways are generaUy used for riding purposes, and, as a rule, are made, by their Cam bodian riders, to proceed at a very quick pace. The near approach of a horse is announced by the tinkling of a nuraber of sraall beUs, which are fastened by raeans of a leather strap, around its neck. The oxen and buffaloes are used for drawing carts and waggons. The carts to which oxen are yoked are of very Ught structure. Each vehicle of the kind is appointed to be drawn by a pair of oxen, and the rapid pace at which these well forraed animals drag the car riages to which they are yoked along the roads, is indeed marveUous. The carts to which water buffaloes are yoked are, as may be iraagined, heavier and stronger than are the conveyances to which, in the preceding sentence, we have referred. Moreover, as the water buffaloes are, in form, very ponderous, it is impossible for them to perform their journeys with the same degree of ease and swiftness as do the oxen- To the neck of each buffalo — and our remark also apphes to each ox — a clapper is attached. This custom, as in the forraer instance, is of course adopted to warn wayfarers of the approach of a beast of burden. The elephants beiug numerous in the land, are captured, and so soon as they have been tamed, are made to carry on their strong backs merchandise of various kinds. Men, too, seated in howdahs, are borne by these beasts from place to place. The driver sits on the' neck of the elephant, and should the beast become at aU unruly, he brings it to a state of propriety by piercing its head with a smaU iron hook or dagger, which is attached to the end of a short wooden rod. The reUgion of the Cambodians is that which was founded * Eelated by Colonel Low. CAMBODIA. 35 and propagated by Buddha or Gaudama, as he is sometimes called. In order, however, to understand more fully the reUgious faith which it is now our intention to describe, let us enter, in the first instance, upon a brief account of the personage by whom it was established. Buddha, then, was born about six hundred years before the coming of Christ. The city which lays claim to the distinction of having given birth to so remarkable a character is that called Kapila- Vastu. It was the chief city of a minor kingdom in the north of India, and of this couutiy the father of Buddha was the Prince or King. On attaining years of discretion, he was told the melancholy fact that his mother had died seven days after his birth. This sad intelUgence preyed so greatly on his mind as to cause him to retire in a . great measure from the cares and turmoils of life. The father, observing this tendency on the part of his son, and being weU aware, too, that the soothsayers of the kingdom had long before predicted that the Prince would decline the honours and anxieties of the throne and become a monk, resolved, if possible, to prevent any such step being carried into effect. He, therefore, as a preliminary measure, resolved to' unite him in marriage to the daughter of a neigh bouring king. To this resolution on the part of the father the son yielded, and he became, in due course of time, the husband of the princess whom his father had selected as the most suitable helpmate for him. It is natural to suppose that he now entered upon all the gaieties of eastern life, and forgot the sad fact which but a short time before had caused him to long for a retirement from the pursuits and pleasures of the world. On one occasion, however, when riding in his chariot towards his summer palace, he saw a man who was so overcome and borne down by the infirmities and sorrows of old age as to be alraost incapable of walking. The Prince, upon asking the driver of his chariot if labom- and sorrow were the usual concomitants of extreme old age, was told in reply that they were. " Then let me not seek to-day the pleasures and attractions which my summer palace offer me. Eather D 2 36 CAMBODIA. let one who is an heir to such sorrows give up at once the world and its fascinations. Hasten homewards.'' The Prince then returned to his home. On another occasion he saw on the highway a leprous person, and upon being told by his attendant that all flesli was heir to disease, he was greatly overcorae. At a future tirae he passed a funeral procession, and having been told by one of the bystanders that aU raen must die, he gave way to feelings of despondency. He now, however, resolved to find out some expedient by which the various extremities to which his mind had been directed, might be averted. It happened, therefore, that whilst visiting either a near or dis tant part of the principality to which he was heir, his attention was directed to an anchorite who, sitting at the corner of a thoroughfare, was -receiving alms from the benevolent who had occasion to pass that way. This man he was informed in answer to his inquiries, was a recluse, who devoted his time to a meditation on the folUes and vanities of the world, and who lived as a pensioner on the bounty of compassionate persons. It now occurred to the Prince that he had at length discovered a plan by which the great purpose to which, in a preceding sentence, we have referred, might be accomplished. He resolved to renounce his right of succession to the throne and sceptre of his father, to forsake his famUy, and to seek seclusion in some distant part of his father's principality. On the very day that this resolution was entertained, his wife gave birth to a son, who was her first-born child. On his wife and her newly-born babe he gazed for a time, and fearing lest the resolution which he had forraed should for ever abandon him, he mounted his horse and, attended by a servant, entered a forest and there passed the night. On the following morning, having attired himself in the dress of a mendicant, he placed his horse and princely robes in charo-e of the servant who had accompanied hira, and then com raanded him to return to the palace, and to deliver, on his arrival there, to the various members of the royal family CAMBODIA, 37 the following message : — The Prince does not intend to re turn to the home of his fathers until he has discovered an antidote against age, disease, and death. In the seclusion which the Ibi'cst afforded him he was eventuaUy joined by five Brahmins. The teaching, however, of these religionists he soon discovered was altogether op posed to his own preconceived views dn the various religious or phUosophical subjects which came under discussion. To their notions on the great doctrines of the transmigration of souls and good works, he could without any hesitation give his assent, but the gods whom they said were deserving of, and ought to receive, adoration at the hands of men he utterly abhorred. The sacrifice of animals, too, which in some re spects was strongly insisted upon by his Brahminical com panions, he regarded as a vain thing, The great purposes of reUgion he declared were, or ought to be, of a decidedly merciful nature, and that no religion was worthy of a moment's con sideration which did not provide for men an exem ption from the miseries and woes by which in hfe they are beset. A religion so constituted, he intimated, is simply a hohness clad in never-fading beauty, and presenting the most attractive loveliness. Finding that by the severe austerities which during the six years he had now spent in the seclusion of the forest, all his energies of mind and body were being wasted, he determined to alter in future his mode of life. He com menced, therefore, by partaking more freely of " creature comforts." This change of life on his part so greatly shocked his Brahminical associates that they at once forsook him and returned to their respective homes in the sacred city of Benares. Buddha being now the only rational inhabitant of the forest, in which for many years he had sought and found seclusion, pitched his tent under a mimosa tree, and devoted the whole of his tirae to prayer and meditation. It was during this particular season of reflection that he was caUed upon to experience a severe mental conflict. Temptation in every form assailed him. Spiritual adversaries of the most 38 CAMBODIA. fearful and powerful kind hedged him in on every side, and for some time nothing but defeat and disgrace apparently awaited him. He, however, came from this great spiritual struggle a conqueror, having discovered, as he thought, during its course the four great truths fox which he had hitherto so vainly searched. The four great truths in question may be enumerated as foUows : — Firstly, all animated creatures are exposed to suffering. Secondly, suffering is the natural result of a longing after, or a thirsting for that which is a vain iUusion. Thirdly, freedom from suffering can only be attained by a deliverance from the longing or thirsting to which we have referred, or, in other words, by absorption ; and, fourthly, this absorption can only be effected by an at tention to the rules of Buddha. These rules may be enu merated as foUows : — Strong faith ; pure thoughts ; pure words ; pure actions ; a retired or secluded hfe ; an earnest application to the study of the holy law ; a full and correct knowledge of that law, and careful meditation. The holy law sets forth that men are not to kiU creatures of any kind ; not to steal ; not to commit adultery ; not to lie, nor yet to use profane or blasphemous language ; and not to partake of strong drink. It also especially enjoins upon the bonzes or priests of the sect of Buddha not to eat except at the pro perly appointed tiraes ; not to attend theatres ; not to wear fine clothing ; not to sleep on soft beds or easy couches ; and not to receive gold or silver. Thus far we have treated on what may be termed the negative injunctions of Buddha's system. Let us now con sider its more positive coramands. Let it be observed then that " charity in its most comprehensive sense, purity, patience, courage, contemplation, and science " are enjoined on aU persons. In addition, however, to the above-named virtues, twelve precepts are more particularly imposed on recluses. The precepts in question are very much as fol loAvs : — Firstly, they are to clothe themselves with garments made of rags which have been found in cemeteries, or by the wayside. Secondly, that each recluse shall make his own CAMBODIA. 39 clothes, and shall not possess more than three suits at one and the same time. Thirdly, that each recluse shaU have a yellow wooUen tippet, also sewn by his own hands, to w-ear over his shoulders. Fourthly, that he shall live as a pensioner on the bounty of others. Fifthly, that he shall eat once daUy. Sixthly, that he shaU neither eat nor drink after the - sun has reached raeridian. Seventhly, that he shall dweU in groves and places which are far removed from the haunts of men. Eighthly, that the branches of wide-spreading trees shall alone afford him a shelter. Ninthly, that the trunk of the tree under which he lives shall be to him when in a sitting posture, a sufficient support for his back. Tenthly, that in bed he shaU sleep in a sitting rather than in a re cumbent posture. Eleventhly, that he shall never, having once arranged his bed, change its position. And, twelfthly, that he shaU resort once a month to cemeteries or funeral pyi-es in order to reflect on the vanity and uncertainty of all things sublunary. Thus Buddha thought that men by a diligent cultivation of the virtues which we have enumerated, and by a strict observance of the precepts to which we have directed the attention of our readers, would attain to nirvana, or the incon ceivable bUss of a future state. Now, by the term nirvana is meant absorption or a mingling with the heavens, and being for ever in a state of unconsciousness. This state was, in the estimation of Buddha, one of extreme happiness, and in order to attain it many ascetical persons have recourse to monastic ceUs, or to the caves and dens of the earth, for it is in such places, they fancy, a holy abstraction from worldly cares can be the more effectually cultivated. There are, however, many Buddhists who suppose that absorption, or, in other words, the inconceivable bhss of the nirvana state is a reward which only the truly meritorious, or highly virtuous ones of the earth can attain, and that so difficult is it to conform amidst the temptations of hfe to the necessary standard of merit, that they give up all idea of nirvana, and seek only the attainment of places in a paradise. 40 CAMBODIA. or intermediate state, of which Buddha also spake and taught. The paradise in question is said to be beautified and adorned with trees and shrubs of various kinds. The air thereof is also said to resound with notes of birds of the richest plumage. It is not, however, an abode in which departed ones for ever remain. Sorae are there for miUions, others for billions, and not a few for trillions of years. They have, how ever, one and aU to return, at the termination of their respec tive periods of bliss, to this fleeting world, to be men of dis tinction, honour, and renown. There is also a place of torment for the damned. This region of woe, which is said to be situated in the western heavens, is divided into ten kingdoms, over each of which there reigns a king, who, aided by a certain number of ministers, directs aU affairs. From this abode of torment and sorrow, the damned are, in due tirae, permitted to return to earth. They reappear, however, in this world in the form either of dogs or cats, or wild beasts of the forest, or reptiles, or birds of the air, or fishes of the sea. Having briefly dwelt upon the national rehgion of Cam bodia, let us now proceed to give an account of some of the ceremonies and games of the people of that country. And first as to the marriage ceremony. This rite raay, in sorae respects, be regarded as a civil contract. The parents select a bride for their son. On an auspicious, or lucky day, the marriage takes place in the presence of the respective friends of the contracting parties. On that day, and on the two or three days which immediately follow it, great rejoicings are observed. It may, perhaps, prove more interesting to our readers, if we quote from Vincent's "Land of the White Elephant," the foUowing interesting account of a Cambodian marriage. Let us, therefore, proceed to do so : — "February the 15th was the day appointed for the mar riage festival in the (Governor's) palace, but I being sick, my companions thought it imprudent for me to attend. How ever, in the evening the missionary gave me a detailed CAMBODIA. 41 account of the eutire proceedings. He said that when they reached the Governor's palace, the ceremony had just com menced. That they were ushered, amid a tremendous din of gongs, into a large sala, beyond the reception hall, where were seated the Governor and about a hundred noblemen and invited guests ; the bridegroom, a young man about 20 years of age, elegantly attired in silk jacket and panoung, was also there. By the tirae the farangs were seated, a procession, headed by the bride, supported on either hand by demure- looking matrons, composed principally of aged or married woraen, aU elegantly attired, entered and slowly marched towards the Governor. The bride was not particularly inte resting as regards personal charms ; she was young, however, and dressed richly and in good taste. Besides her silk panoung, she wore a gold embroidered scarf upon her shoulders, also gold rings upon her fingers, bracelets upon her wrists, and armlets above the elbows. The bride took up her position near the bridegroora, both sitting upon the floor, but not looking towards each other ; in fact, throughout the entire cereraony they both were perfectly irapassive and nonclialant. The raarriage cereraony proper now began. A number of wax candles were brought on a salver, and then hghted by one of the nobles. The silver waiter was then passed round before the company eight times, each one in turn saluting the couple, and wishing them good fortune by waving or blowing the smoke towards them, thus expressing something hke the old English custom of throwing the slipper after a newly married couple, the band of string and reed instruments playing the meanwhUe. Two large velvet cushions having been previously placed before the bride and bridegroom, and upon them a large sword, the leader of the lacon (theatricals) now came forward, and went through for a few raoments a most fantastical sword exercise. Dishes had been placed before the unsusceptible couple upon the floor, with covers upon them, which latter the lacon man removed during his fiourishes, disclosing to view sorae cooked fowls or ducks ; nothing was eaten, however. Next the hands of the ex- 42 CAMBODIA. pectant couple were bound together, and to each other with silken threads, by the women attendants, probably some near relatives. Thus were they truly 'joined together' in Buddhistic wedlock, and this completed the nuptial cere mony." Afterwards a grand banquet was served in the reception room, the Governor himself officiating. The nobles and guests partook of the viands, sitting apart at little tables by themselves. The farangs occupied the place of honour at the end of the hall ; and they pronounced the dinner excel lent. Let us not forget to state, when writing on this interesting subject, that a person of wealth is not, as a rule, satisfied with one wife. He, therefore, generally takes to himseK as spouses, two other woraen. More than three wives, aU living at the same tirae, he cannot legitiraately have. Of concubines, however, he can have an unlimited number. Before we close our remarks on the subject of Cam bodian marriages, let us not forget to state that very ex pensive presents are not unfrequently given to the bridal pair. Thus, for example, Vincent informs us in his work, entitled "The Land of the White Elephant," and from whieh work we have already quoted, that to a bridal pair, at whose marriage ceremony some of his traveUing com panions were present, most costly gifts were made. " The Governor's gift," says he, " was a large lump of gold, worth 450 doUars, five silver bars (worth 15 dollars each), an American gold watch and chain, a gold tobacco-box, and 800 silver ticals. Upon one mat were 2,000 tical^ worth of money, in coins of different values. The other gifts were panoungs and native trinkets and jewellery." As to funeral ceremonies, we may observe that the Cam bodians dispose of their dead by cremation. On the day appointed for the solemnization of the funeral obsequies, many Buddhist priests go the house of mourning, and perform what, in the absence of a better term, may be called a mass. The mass having been brought to a close, the coffin, which is CAMBODIA. 43 generaUy of a variegated colour, is placed on a broad bier, or smaU portable platforra. At the head of the coffin are placed burning tapers and eucharistical offerings of fruits. On the bier, or portable platform to which we have just referred, and on each' side of the coffin, a Buddhist priest, wearing robes of a yellow colour, squats. Each of these priests, holding before his face a large circular fan or sun shade, chants a requiem. In front of the coffin, and at the head, of course, of the funeral procession, a chief priest is borne on a litter. This litter, which is carried by two strong men, consists of a haramock, suspended from an elaborately- carved beam of hard wood. Near to this chief priest, a raan, bearing in his hands a tray, and on which offerings of fruits and flowers have been carefuUy arranged, walks with measured steps. Behind - the cofiin, male and female relatives and friends of the deceased foUow, and, at frequent intervals, give vent to bitter lamentations and sorrow. On reaching the fune ral pyre the coffin is placed thereon, and near to it are arranged mats, on which for a short time the priests and mourners squat. The chief priest eventually arises, and, approach ing the coffin, says a few prayers. On withdrawing from the side of the cofifin, other priests, attending the obsequies, approach it and having said a few short prayers, retire. Before, however, they quit the side of the coffin, they draw from it — the lid or cover thereof not being as yet screwed down — a portion of a long funeral shroud, which has been placed over the corpse. The chief priest again approaches the bier, and at the close of each of five prayers, which he then says, draws a portion of the shroud from the coffin. The shroud having been in this manner completely removed from the coffin, the chief priest withdraws and again squats on the mat. The lid of the coffin is now finaUy closed, and two strips of calico are placed on it. They are not suffered to remain in this position many minutes. The con trary, indeed, is the case ; for two of the subordinate priests having again approached the cofifin and having once more prayed, remove them. This cereraony of withdrawing the 44 CAMBODIA. shroud from the cofifin is supposed to free the soul from the body and to secure for it a safe passage to the regions of bliss. To a train of gunpowder, which is made to com municate with the interior of the coffin, a fuse is now applied, and in a very short time the coffin, and the corpse which it contains, are consumed. In the case of princes and ofificers of state, the ceremony of setting fire to the funeral pyre is performed by the king. The corpse of a French mer chant, who died at Phnom-Peng not many weeks or months before our arrival at that city, was burned according to aU the rites and ceremonies of the Buddhist religion. On this occasion the funeral pyre was, as a raark of respect, we suppose, ignited by the ¦ King of Cambodia. This singular method of disposing of the corpse of a Christian was regarded by raany as very singular. There can be no doubt, however, that he whose body was in this manner reduced to ashes had long entertained atheistical notions. The ceremony observed at his dissolution was siraply in accordance with a paragraph of his wiU. As to the games and amusements of the Cambodians, we may state that shuttlecock, played by means of the feet, dramatic representations, and musical concerts, more espe cially the latter, occupy much of their time. Boat races, buUock-cart races, elephant races, cock fights, turtle-dove fights, quail fights, and fish fights, also have their patrons. The gamecocks and turtle-doves are, previous to fighting, alraost invariably armed with spurs. Thus they, not unfre quently, very seriously injure each other. To elephant fights we also heard references made. Such contests, however, do not we apprehend ever occur in this age. It is, nevertheless, on record that, in ancient times, it was customary for Cam bodians and Siamese to settle any disputes which might arise between them by fighting elephants, even as it was cus tomary in ages past, for the inhabitants of Sumatra and those of Java to settle their disputes by fighting buffaloes. Gambling, card-playing, and dominoes are also greatly CAMBODIA. 45 patronized. But it is now time for us to give a brief descrip tion of our travels through the interior of the couutry. On a preceding page, then, we have stated that the King of Cambodia, on learning that it was our intention to travel through his kingdom, had graciously promised to furnish us not only with boats, but at the same tirae with aU other modes of conveyance, which, in the prosecution of our journey, might be necessary. These royal proraises, we need scarcely observe, were one and all raost araply ful fiUed. Thus, for exaraple, at the hour appointed for our departure from Phnom-Peng we found at the place of embarka tion, for our especial service, one of the King's own travelling boats. On the taffrail of this royal barge was placed, with a view to our safe convoy, the insignia of royalty. These embleras, which consisted of a royal banner and a large plurae of peacock's feathers, tended no doubt to secure for us respect at the hands of the several viUagers and citizens through whose viUagers and towns we had occasion to pass. The barge was also weU-manned by saUors whom the King had especially summoned to attend. In consequence of the gTeat heat, they dispensed entirely with their upper gar raents, and in a standing posture, with their backs towards the saloon in which we were seated, rowed or paddled with great regularity. Each of these saUors bound a thin cord around his shoulders as a charm or antidote against cholera. The Mesap, a somewhat narrow river, which, on our way from Phnom-Peng to the great lake of Thay-lay-Sap we had occasion to navigate, is in many places enclosed by high banks, which are very well wooded. We also observed plains or fields, in which respectively mulberry trees, indigo, betel- nuts, and other products were being carefully cultivated. As the waters of this river abound with fish of various kinds, it was very natural for us to see, at frequent intervals, large numbers of storks, pelicans, king-fishers, and other birds, which prey ou flsh, diligently seeking for their food. These various kinds of birds appeared to be very tame, suffering us 46 CAMBODIA. in many instances to approach quite near to them, ere they took to flight. We also saw a tolerably large ichneumon by the river's side. For a time, he lay perfectly still, and would, without doubt, have fallen a victira to the gun of our tra velling corapanion, Mr. Eosenthal. Ere the gun was charged, he was startled by the faihng of an oar, and, evidently feehng that danger was at hand, fled for safety into the neighbouring jungle. The first town at which we arrived was Kum-poong-loong. It is of very limited extent,.and consists, as do all Cambodian towns, of houses which are constructed of mats and reeds, or bamboo rods. Here, however, there is a beautiful Buddhist temple or pagoda, as such structures are sometimes termed. It stands in its own grounds, which, at the tirae of our visit, were kept in very good order. On entering the teraple we were surprised to find that its four walls were literaUy covered with mosaics. The mosaics in question represent, in a. great measure, the fearful punishments which, in the Buddhist hades, are meted out to the wicked. Thus, for example, one picture represented a raan whose tongue was protruding, and which ravens were voraciously devouring. This mode of punishment is, we were told, inflicted on perjurers, liars, profane swearers, and blasphemers. Another picture repre sented a man whose eyes were being plucked from their sockets by ravens. This style of suffering is the lot, so we were informed, of those who have looked upon women to lust after them, or who have found delight in gazing upon things calculated to fill the soul with evil passions. But time would faU us were we to enumerate all the sineular representations which, in bright and glowing colours, the artist has dehneated on these walls. We, in the next instance, visited the market-place, and as the weekly fair was being held, we saw the emporium in question to great advantage. The grain stores were very weU filled with rice. This was, iu truth, an agreeable sight, as rice is one of the chief articles of diet in Cambodia. Thus there was in the market an abundant supply of food CAMBODIA. 47 for all. The fish market, too, was weU supplied with salt fish. This fact, however, is not a surprising one, as the inhabitants of Kum-poong-loong (and the remark which we are now about to make applies to the citizens of all the towns on the banks of the Mesap) devote their time to capturing fish, which they iramediately dry and salt, and then, as an article of commerce, send to almost all the countries of Asia. Of fish oU they also make large quantities. Nor are the inhabitants of Kum-poong-loong obliged to go any great distance in the pursuit of their call ing as fisherraen, inasmuch as the river Mesap and the neighbouring lake of Thay-lay-Sap abound with fish of almost every variety, and of every size. The fruit market, too, proved worthy of a visit. Of water-melons and other fruits of that nature there was an abundance, and as the heat of the day was very great, they were, of course, in demand. In the market-place we saw a nuraber of pariah dogs which were eagerly watching for any particle of garbage that might be cast into the streets. They had a half-starved appearance, and growled so ferociously as to remind one of savage wolves rather than dogs. The ravens, too, with their shining black plumage, were also in large numbers seeking after their prey. As we were returning from the market-place we saw a large funeral procession coming towards us. When it reached the place where we were standing, we discovered that it con sisted of Cambodians and Chinese, who were on their way to some pubhc or coramon lands situated at a distance of four raUes frora the town of Kura-poong-loong in order to give interraent to the reraains of a Chinese raerchant who had died on the preceding day. As the Cambodians dispose of their dead by cremation, they are without cemeteries. It was, therefore, necessary for the Chinese mourners, who forraed part of this mournful cavalcade, to have recourse to the wUderness in order to give interment to the remains of their corapatriot. As the day, though hot, was beautifully fine, we resolved to accompany the mourners on their sad 48 CAMBODIA. errand, and to gather, if ])ossible, as travellers, some further information respecting the perforraance of funeral ceremonies in Carabodia. As the funeral procession was in all respects sirailar to that which, on a preceding page of this work, we have described, there is no need for us to repeat it here. We raay, however, state that in addition to the persons who in a Cambodian funeral precede the coffin, there were two Chinese. Of these raen, one scattered at frequent inter vals, raock paper-raoney, with the view of appeasing all evil spirits or hungry ghosts, and precluding thereby the possibility of their preying for food or money upon the soul of the departed one. The other carried a white banner with the view of pointing out to the soul its way to the tomb. Now the two customs to which we have just referred are, in their nature and practices, quite Chinese. The coffin was in its style and decorations altogether Cam bodian. Thus, for exaraple, on its sides were painted rae- dallions of a red colour, each of which was enclosed by a border of green and gold. On the lid were painted rae- dallions of a blue colour, each of which was enclosed by a border of red and gold. On the arrival of the funeral procession at the place where a grave had been prepared for the interment of the remains of the departed one, all the cereraonies, excepting cremation, which, on a preceding page, we have described, were duly observed. No sooner had the coffin been lowered into its last resting place, amidst the bowlings and lamentations of the mourners, and the' loud beating of gongs, than the grave-diggers commenced the work of throwing earth upon it. As the grave, which, in point of depth, was not more than three or four feet, was being fiUed with earth, men armed with long poles resembling paviors' hamraers, stood therein, and with their poles beat or pressed the earth with the view of hardening it, and thereby rendering it a difficult, if not an impossible, matter for the pariah dogs and wild animals of the forest to exhume and devour the remains of the departed one. As the mourners were in the act of withdrawing from the grave, several men, each CAMBODIA. 49 of whom had previously provided himself with a box of matches, hastened to set fire, in many parts, to the neighbour ing jungle. As everything was very dry in consequence of a prolonged hot and dry season, the fires, which had been thus kindled, burned with a fury which can be more easily imagined than described. Upon asking why this singular step had been taken, we were told that it was done for no other purpose than to intimidate all wUd beasts which might be lurking in the neighbourhood of the newly formed grave, and to keep thera away untU aU scent or smeU arising frora the dead body which had just been buried therein, should have ceased to exist. We now returned to Kura-poong-loong, and on reaching our boat, very gladly retired to rest, being rauch overcome by the heat and fatigues of the day. On the foUowing morning, we took our departure from Kura-poong-loong and proceeded to Kum-poong-he-leik, and thence to Kum-poo-chee-nung. On our way to and frora these towns, we passed several junks saiUng under Carabodian coloiu-s, of which not a few were owned by Chinese merchants, who, in the pursuit of commerce, had established themselves in Cambodia. The vessels belonging to these Chinese traders were easUy recognised by the eyes which were painted on the bows, and by representations of the Yin and the Yan, which were painted on the oars. We also observed several canoes, each consisting of one sohd piece of wood. They had a some what clumsy appearance, and required, in their navigation, no ordinary degree of care. In propeUing them, a scull alone was used. On our arrival at Kum-poo-chee-nung, it was suggested that our commissariat stores might be renewed to advantage. It was also proposed by one of our party that the purchase of a fat pig would prove very agreeable not only to himseU but to others also of the ship's company. We, however, were quite at a loss to see the propriety of such a step, knowing fuU weU that, in consequence of the great heat of the chmate, the larger portion of the pig's carcase must speedUy becorae unfit for human food. A desire for pork, however, was again E 50 CAMBODIA. expressed, and with the view of gratifying that desire a large pig was eventuaUy bought. The purchase of the pig in ques tion was attended with no ordinary degree of excitement and mirth. A smaU farmer who, it was discovered, had a few fat pigs for sale, was at once visited. Taking us into his farm yard, he directed our attention to eight or ten. fat hogs, and requested us to take our choice. Our pork-loving companion immediately selected the largest pig of the herd, and the price demanded having been agreed to, an attempt was at once raade to capture the grunter. The brute, however, which evidently partook more of the nature of a wild than a domestic pig, madly bounded out of the yard, and rushed into the neighbouring jungle. As the farmer had not re ceived payment for his pig, he deemed it advisable to hunt the animal down. He accordingly summoned to his aid fifteen stalwart Cambodian peasants, who, armed either with sticks or spears, entered the jungle in search of the fugitive porker. The result was a most aniihated chase, which ex tended over a period of half-an-hour. So soon as the beast had been caught, a shout of triumph on the part of the peasants made the very jungle resound. We, for our part, know nothing whatever of the pleasures and excitement of the chase. If, however, they equal the deUght and animation which characterized the peasants on the occasion to which we have just referred, they, indeed, are very great. The captured pig, which had aU the appearance of a wild boar, was speedily conveyed to our traveUing barge, and placed, with a view to its safe custody, in a smaU hold. Having inspected sorae weU-formed earthenware vessels and furnaces which the Cambodians require for culinary purposes, we re-erabarked, and with aU haste proceeded on our way to the great lake of Thalaysap. The viUage of Kura-poo-chee-nung was in due time reached. Here we saw sorae floating-houses which faUed not, in consequence of their novelty, to interest us very much. They consist of mats and reeds, and are erected on floating rafts of bamboo-poles or beams of wood. The rafts are secured to the' banks of the river by means of chains or CAMBODIA. 51 ropes. It is, of course, possible for the inmates to move their dweUing-house to any part or branch of the river in which they may choose to locate themselves. On landing from our barge, we inspected a small market-place, containing a large supply of earthenware culinary vessels, which were, in aU respects, simUar to those to which in a preceding sentence we have referred. The shapes of these vessels and furnaces are very classical, and so beautifully are they formed as to afford the most indubitable evidence of the skiU and ability with which Cambodian potters ply their art. On calling at the Custom-house, which is also a floating habitation, we found the chief officer engaged in celebrating the marriage nuptials of his son. The marriage had been solemnized, if we may so apply the term, a day or two before our arrival. The celebration of the event, however, was still being observed. The happy pair were called into our pre sence, and, as a raark of reverence, were raade to kneel at our feet. During the few moments that this cereraony lasted, we had an opportunity afforded us of observing how the bridegroom and his bride were dressed. He wore a new jacket and ponung, or trousers, of gay colours, whUe she was robed in a jacket and ponung of a blue colour. She had, also, round her neck, a long necklace. It was, however, impossible for us to ascertain the nature of the beads of which it was formed. The bridal pair, on rising to their feet, placed before us a tray containing three or four savoury Carabodian dishes. Of this food we partook very sparingly, and then gave, as is customary, a sraall bridal present. As we were in the act of withdrawing, the father of the bride groora begged of us— knowing that we were English eccle siastics — to bless the bridal pair. Having explained to him that we were not believers in the tenets of Buddha, we further stated that should it meet his approval, it would give us pleasure to ask the one living God of all the kingdoms and nations of the earth to bless them in the name and for the sake of Jesus Christ, the Eedeemer of men. To this he consented, and we accordingly gave the youthful couple — E 2 52 CAMBODIA. for they were not raore than eighteen and seventeen years of age respectively— our heartfelt blessing, and, having done so, took our departure. Before leaving Kum-poong-chee-nung, we experienced great difificulty in obtaining a pUot — the services of such an officer being absolutely necessary for the safe navigation of the great lake upon the waters of which we were so soon to enter. After some delay, however, the services of a compe tent person were secured, and he, together with ourselves, having embarked, we once more hastened on our voyage. We had not proceeded very far from the last-mentioned place, when our attention was directed to a large number of monkeys which were seated, Uke so many birds, . on the branches of the trees by which the banks of the river Mesap are, at this point, adorned. Our traveUing companion shot two or three of these plajrful creatures, and it was, indeed, distressing to witness the apparent sorrow which the sur vivors manifested on seeing their companions of the forest fall. One of the monkeys at which our companion levelled his gun was severely wounded, and it was, beyond measure, surprising to see the tender raanner in which this maimed brute was assisted by the other monkeys in his descent from the tree on which he had received his wounds. In due time we arrived at a very smaU viUage caUed WeU-Puck, and here it was deemed advisable that we should' slaughter the pig which we had previously purchased at Kura- poo-chee-nung. Each of the sailors on board, however, de cUned to act the part of a butcher, and it was with difficulty that a viUager was at length prevaUed upon to render the service of which at that moraent, being in want of food, we stood so rauch in need. The pig havmg faUen a victim to the knife of this amateur butcher, portions of it were at once placed in the hands of our cook, who was an Aimamese, with a view to their being prepared for our breakfast table. The duties thus imposed upon our cook having been well discharged, we partook once more of a hearty meal. The greater part of the pork, however, was wasted, it bemg CAMBODIA. 53 utterly impossible in a tropical cliraate to keep fresh meat for any length of time. We now entered upon the great lake of Thalaysap, and scarcely had we done so, when a fisherman drew frora its waters a large sword fish. The cranium and sword of this monster of the deep we expressed our readiness to purchase. The fisherman, however, upon hearing of our wish, at once observed that there was no need for us to expend our money on such things, as he was prepared to present them to us as mementoes of our visit to the great lake. The cranium and sword of this fish thus fell into our possession, and they forra to-day an interesting portion of our large private museum. As we were in the act of withdrawing from the presence of this generous fisherman, several sea guUs flew over our heads, one of which was wounded by the contents of our companion's gun. Before, however, we could reach that point of the lake on the surface of which it feU, it was seized by a large eagle, and borne no doubt to some near or distartt eyry. A strong wind arising about this time, and rendering the lake rather terapestuous, it became neces sary for us to skirt a very extensive forest, by which the shores of the lake are for many miles fring-ed. As we were saihng slowly along the side of this forest, we saw a large number of vultures feeding most voraciously upon a carcase. This, no doubt, was the carcase of one of the many wild beasts which infest these forests, and which — owing either to wounds inflicted in the chase, or sickness, or old age — had there died. The wind continuing to rise, it was impossible, at that time, to proceed further. We therefote made fast our boat to one of the trees of the adjoining forest, and in that position remained during the ensuing twenty-four hours. The boat plunged to such a degree throughout the night as to subject us to a sharp attack of sea-sickness. Towards the morning a large flock of wUd geese settled on the water in close proximity to us, and by their incessant cackhng bid, as it were, defiance to the gun of our fellow voyager. On the weather becoming calm, we again proceeded on our 'voyage, 54 CAMBODIA. and passed on that and the four foUowing days, several fishing stations. These stations consist of rude huts of reeds and mats, and are erected on wooden platforms which are sup ported a few feet above the surface of the waters of the lake by means of strong wooden piles. The fishes, when caught, are preserved by salt, and are afterwards, as we have else where stated, sent as an article of commerce to almost all the nations of Asia. From the sea monsters, however, such as sword fishes, porpoises, and dolphins, oU is obtained. In the neighbourhood of aU the fishing stations we gene raUy saw large flocks of eagles, vultures, and condors. These birds fatten upon the entraUs of fish which, in large quan tities, are cast as offal by the flshermen into the lake. We also passed large flocks of pehcans. These birds, though they sit not so gracefuUy on the water as do swans, and though in point of shape they are not so beautiful, yet, neverthe less, they are deserving of admiration. At frequent intervals, too, we saw on the shores of the lake large evergreen trees, the branches of which were rendered UteraUy white with birds, which were roosting on them. These birds were in sorae instances sea-guUs, and in others pehcans. It some what astonished us to see with what ease these web-footed creatures of the air could poise themselves on the wide spreading boughs of the loftiest trees. Oh the raorning of the 31st of January we reached a smaU fishing viUage, which is situated at the head of the lake, and it was here that we were caUed upon to debark, in order to make the necessary preparations for our overland journey from this point to the famous ruins of Angor Wat. Let us not take leave of the lake untU we have made an aUusion, however faint, to the most magniflcent sunsets which, each evening we were on its bosom, we had an opportunity of witness ing. They were surpassingly beautiful, and faUed not to convince us of the fact that on canvas, the pencU of the artist, however cunning, has as yet most signally faUed to give true representations of the sublime grandeur of an Eastern sunset. CAMBODIA. 55 No sooner had we landed than we employed a mes senger to forward our letters of introduction to the Governor of the province of Siamrap. On being informed that he coiUd not possibly return to us with an answer until the foUowing morning, we resolved to pass the evening in a manner as comfortable as it was possible for us to do. We, therefore, proceeded to hght a tent fire, and then to prepare for ouxselves a suitable repast. By the side of this fire we eventuaUy dined, and spent a few hours in a raost social manner. Ere we retired to rest, however, the pleasures of the evening were, so far as concerned us, considerably spoUed by a flogging, which, at the comraand of one of our party, was adrainistered to a saUor, who forraed one of the boat's crew. The poor feUow cried bitterly at each stroke of the whip, which was adrainistered by one of his companions. As many Cambodians, who resided in a closely adjoining hamlet, witnessed this castigation of their countryman, and as they knew, too, that it had been inflicted in obedience to the commands of an Englishman, it was with fear and trembUng, in respect to our safety, that we retired to rest. Throughout the night, however, there was no attack made upon us. We, therefore, concluded that the Cambodians do not regard a flogging administered to one of their country men in obedience to the orders of an European, in the same hght as the Chinese would, under simUar circurastances, re gard the pumshment of one of their countrymen. So soon as the sun had risen, our messenger returned with a most pohte message from the Governor of Siamrap. His ExceUency inforraed us that in the course of a few hours he would send, for the safe conveyance of ourselves and baggage to his residence, buUock and buffalo carts. At the hour of 10 A.M. these carts arrived. Having as speedily as possible stowed our baggage in the buffalo carts and our selves in the buUock carts, we proceeded on our way to the town of Siararap, which is the capital of a province of the same name. The road, which was one of the most uneven ways we ever had traversed, led through a forest. Indeed, so 66 CAMBODIA. bad was the road, that we were compeUed, despite the cart being drawn by a pair of strong buUocks, to aUght and walk. We had not gone very far when we perceived, on the soft mud of the forest the fresh prints of a tiger's feet ; and again, at no very great distance from this point, we saw the deeply- irabedded prints of a wUd elephant's feet. This monster of the forest had, doubtless, only a short time previously crossed the very path which we were then pursuing. On reaching the extreme border of this forest, we en camped for a time, in order to give rest to the buUocks and buffaloes, and as there was much grass and water in the place, they fared not amiss. On renewing our day's jour ney, we went at a rapid pace over a champagne country towards Siamrap, and in course of time, we reached the banks of the Siamrap river. It is a very smaU stream, and, in some parts, proportionably shaUow. This latter circum stance was an advantage to us, as we had more than once to ford its streams. At the first ford, several travellers were crossing at the same tirae as ourselves, and we ob served that, when in the middle of the stream, each driver puUed up his team, and proceeded to lave his buUocks with the puxe and xefreshing waters. Here, we had an opportunity afforded us of seeing some very fine specimens of Carabodian oxen. They are beautifuUy formed, and trot not only with a fleetness, but also with a grace and ease truly surprising. Our journey was, for a short distance, directed along the banks of the Siamrap river. This part of the xoad was so naxxow and uneven, that we wexe fox sorae time in constant feax of being pxecipitated into the passing stxeam. As we drew neax to Siaraxap, we saw sevexal Carabodians ciossing and le-cxossing the xivex in canoes, each of which, as we have elsewhere observed, is made out of a soUd piece of wood. At frequent intervals, also, we observed water-wheels in motion, with the view of irrigating the adjacent arable lands. The lands, which by this pxocess axe u-xigated, are generaUy thirty or forty feet above the level of the river. Water-wheels, precisely similar, axe employed in China by CAMBODIA. 57 the agriculturists of that country, and respecting them we find in Davis's work, entitled " The Chinese," the following in- teresthig account : — " The wheel, which is turned by the stream, varies from twenty to thirty feet or more in height, according to the elevation of the bank ; and, when once erected, a constant supply of water is poured by it into a trough on the summit of the river's side, and conducted in channels to aU parts of the sugar plantation, which there chiefly occupy the lands. " The props of the wheel are of timber, and the axis is a cylinder of the sarae material ; but every other portion of the machine exhibits sorae raodification or other of the bamboo, even to the fastenings and bindings ; for not a single naU or piece of metal enters into its composition. The wheel con sists of two rims of unequal diaraeter, of which one next the hank is rather the least." "This double wheel," observes Staunton, " is connected with the axis by sixteen or eighteen spokes of baraboo, obhquely inserted near each extreraity of the axis, and crossing each other at about two-thirds of their length. They are there strengthened by a concentric circle, and fastened afterwards to the riras ; the spokes inserted in the interior extremity of the axis (or that next to the bank) reachuig the outer xim, and those pxoceeding fiora the ex- texiox extxemity of the sarae axis xeaching the innex and smaUex xim. Between the xims and the crossings of the spokes is woven a kind of close basket-work, serving as ladle- boards, which are acted upon by the current of the stream, and tum the wheel round. "The whole diameter of the wheel being something greater than the height of the bank, about 16 or 20 hollow baraboos closed at one end are fastened to the circuraference to act as buckets. These, however, are not loosely suspended, but firmly attached with their open mouths towards the innex ox sraaUer rim of the wheel, at such an inclination that, when dipping below the water their mouths are shghtly raised from the horizontal position. As they rise through the air, their position approaches the upright sufficiently near to keep a 58 CAMBODIA. considerable portion of the contents within thera ; but when they have reached the suramit of the revolution, the raouths becorae enough depressed to pour the water into a large trough placed on a level with the bank to receive it. The impulse of the stream on the ladle-boards at the circum ference of the wheel, with a radius of about 15 feet, is suf ficient to overcorae the resistance arising from the difference of weight between the ascending and descending, or loaded and unloaded, sides of the wheel This impulse is increased, if necessary, at the particular spot where each wheel is erected, by damming the stream, and even raising the level of the water where it turns the wheel." But of this digression enough. On arriving at Siamrap we were lodged in what, for want of a more appropriate word, we may style a public hostelry. Such institutions are, as a rule, erected throughout the kingdora for the benefit of wayfarers. They are constructed of xeeds, poles, and raats, and axe xaised sevexal feet above the gxound. As they axe weU ventUated they foxm deUght fuUy cool shades undex the burning heat of a txopical sun. It would appeax, also, that no xent-fees are demanded from persons who, as traveUers, have occasion to rest in such places. The Governor of Siamrap, having been duly in formed of our safe arrival, iramediately forwarded to us a present consisting of bananas, green cocoa-nuts and othex fruits. This present was accompanied by a poUte note in viting us to dine with him that evening, which invitation we gladly accepted. We ' now made aU the necessary prepara tions for calling at the palace to pay our respects to His ExceUency the Governor. As we were approaching the official residence for this purpose, three or four men-servants, with horror depicted on their countenances, ran towards the aide-de-camp by whora we were being escorted, and ex claimed that the most beloved wife of the Governor had just been found dead, It appeared frora what we could learn that this unfortunate lady had but an hour or two preceding our arrival at Siararap, prepared a basin of soup for her husband. CAMBODIA. 59 He not hiring the soup, and being, consequently, in a fit of anger, threw it into the face of the fair one by whom it had been cooked. This painful circumstance so distressed the poor woman that she entered the chamber in which her body was eventuaUy found, and there, by strangulation, comraitted suicide. When we entered the palace, we could not fail to observe that the Governor was labouring under gxeat mental depression in consequence of the sad event, which had just occurred. We, however, having been previously warned by the aide-de-carap, made no reference to the matter. Having exchanged the ordinary salutations with His ExceUency, we were invited to sit down. And now an animated conversa tion was carried on for some tirae by the Governor on the one hand and Mr. Eosenthal on the other ; our travels form ing, in a great measure, the subject matter of conversation. The room in which we were received was neither more nor less than a large hall. Against the waUs were arranged, with much neatness, several weapons of warfare, whUst at one end of the hall, which was fitted up as a theatre, were placed several Cambodian musical instruments. Throughout the interview, four ox five infexioi officexs of state were in attendance. They, however, did not sit on chairs as did the Governor and ourselves, but as is the custom of the Cambodians, squatted on the floor. After a conversa tion, which had extended over an hour, we withdrew frora the palace to our hostelry. At six o'clock in the evening we again went to the palace ii]L order to dine with His ExceUency. The dinner, -which was a very good one, was served in the haU to which we have referred. At the chief table the Governor, ourselves, and an aide-de-camp sat, and at an adjoining table four offi cers of the Govemment, took their places. The men-servants who were in attendance, squatted at the feet of the Governor, and rose only from that position when it was necessary for them to supply the guests with -viands and wine. Shortly after we had begun to dine, a number of gorgeously-dressed Cambodian actresses, the slaves of the Governor's household. 60 CAMBODIA. entered that part of the hall which is fitted up as a theatre, and coniraenced to perform plays. They were assisted in the performance of their parts by a band of Cambodian musicians and vocalists. Thus an opportunity was afforded us of forra ing, at one and the same time, an opinion respecting the histrionic, rausical, and vocal powers of Cambodian artistes. The plot of the flrst play which was performed on this occasion, may be described as follows : — AU gods and god desses are summoned to attend a meeting with the view of discussing the propriety of a descent on their part to this sublunary scene. After much discussion, it is agxeed that as all the people on the face of the earth are leading virtuous lives, they raay, indeed, with becoraing propriety con descend to visit an abode of such perfect purity. Moxeovei, it was axgued that, during their brief stay on earth, an oppor tunity would be given them to encourage poor mortals to persevere in such holy courses. The intention of these heavenly beings having, in due time, been made known to the genius of the earth, the genius of water, and the genius of the clouds, these genii, at the time appointed, ascend to meet the celestial visitants in their descent through the air, and, then, to escort them to the earth. The gods and god desses on reaching the earth are greatly pleased with all things which come under their notice. In the midst of their delight, however, they are surprised by the sudden appearance of a god-hke being who, in a raost authoritative manner, asks why they have dared to act so rashly as to visit this lower scene. He quickly departs, and no sooner has he done so, than a demon or fiend appears in their midst, and fiUs thera, one and aU, with the greatest consternation. They now discovex that eaith, with aU its temptations and gaudy joys, is no place fox them, and, consequently, they hasten back to heaven. A coraedy was, in the next instance, pexfoxraed. The purpoxt of the play in question was very much in accord ance with the following style. A king having conquered a far- off country, proceeds to appoint officers to rule over his newly acquired possession. Having discharged this duty, he thinks CAMBODIA. 61 it desirable to remain in this far-off land for a period of several months, in order to superintend the working of the government, and to secure, if possible, the affections of his new subjects. Ere many weeks have elapsed, he becomes so fond of the place as to resolve to make it the seat of his governraent, and to reraain there in perpetuity. He marries, therefore, a lady of the country, and at once gives up aU idea of returning to his native land. His queens, two in nuraber, to whom he had been previously married, hearing that it is their lord's intention not to return, determine to go in search of him. They, in due course of time, reach the palace of their run-away husband, and succeed in obtaining an inter view with him. He, however, as they are disguised in the costumes of menials, does not recognise them. They repre sent themselves to his Majesty as supernatural beings, and beg to be hired as guardians of the gates of his palace. They are accordingly admitted into his ser-vice, and, as a prelimi nary step, are taught the various customs and raanners which they are to observe when addressing or standing in the presence of the queen. They soon profess to have become altogether proficient in the lessons or rules of etiquette, which have so recently been set before them. When ad mitted into the presence of the king and queen, they pur posely blundex in the dischaxge of theix duties, and axe coxxected by theix Majesties. Again and again they studiously faU in a pxopex obsexvance of the duties, which they owe to the queen, and as frequently are they rebuked, and at length beaten by her Majesty. They eventuaUy run away. Before leaving the palace, however, they place on the gates a placard setting forth that they are the lawful wives of the king. This fact, coming to the notice of her Majesty, her anger and jealousy know no bounds. Overcorae by these passions, she forsakes her faithless lord, and returns, with a sad experience of the weak ness and frailty of man, to her father's house. It is in vain that she is entreated to go back to the palace. The first and second queens avaUing theraselves of the advantage, which, by this singular stxatagera they have acquixed, xetuxn to the 62 CAMBODIA. palace, and once m.oxe ingxatiating theraselves into the favour and affection of theit- loxd, pxevail upon him to go back with them to the mother-country. A viceroy having been ap pointed to rule the newly acquired colonial possession, the king, together with his two queens, returns to the land of his fathers, where he is received, on the part of his people, ¦with every demonstration of loyalty and affection. At the close of this play our conversation, not unnaturaUy, turned upon the nature of the Thespian art in Carabodia, and we then learned that besides tragedies and comedies, they have a species of drama, which is by no means pecuUar to theu- country, and which bears a striking resemblance to the Atellane farces of ancient Eome. These consist of low pieces of gross indecency and vulgar buffoonery, which, of course, have a strong tendency to demorahse rather than to elevate the character of the audience. The evening being now far advanced we withdrew from the palace, having pre viously taken a most friendly leave of our kind host. We were escorted, the night being pitch dark, to our hostelry, by three or four torch bearers. The same aide-de-camp as before was our companion, and fi'om him we learned the extraordinary inteUigence, that whUst we were dining with the Governor, the corpse of the suicide to whom we have aUeady referred, was carried to an adjoining funeral pyre, and there, by the usual method of cremation, reduced to ashes. On the foUowing morning, we arose at an early hour, and proceeded to inspect the city of Siamrap. It is a waUed town. The inhabitants, however, of what may be termed the city proper, are very few in number, the greater part of the people evidently preferring to occupy houses in the suburban districts. On our return to the hostelry we found two elephants and two or three buUock carts waiting to convey us to the ruins of Angor Wat. To our servants and baggage the buUock carts were allotted, while for our sexvice the elephants wexe especiaUy set apaxt. The elephant on which we rode had, two or three years previously, given birth to a young one, and as this youngster had never been weaned from his CAMBODIA. 63 mother, it was a raatter of no ordinary difficulty on this occa sion, to separate the one from the other. To do so, how ever, was deemed an imperative duty, as the young one, being a vicious brute, had, while following at the heels of his mother, killed two men, and wounded anothex. Of the two men, who had faUen victims to the fury of this vicious animal, one had received his death blow not more than 15 days before our arrival at Siamrap. This statement respecting an elephant so young, may appear to sorae of our readers almost incredible. It ought, however, to be remembered that the young animal grows very rapidly at first ; by the second year it has reached the height of four feet ; after this period it increases more slowly, till it has reached 20 or 22 years. They are suckled for two years ; and in a wUd state the young run for suck indiscriminately to any female, -without regard to the mother, and thus the cry of distress frora any of the young generally arouses the herd. The separation of these aniraals, however, having, at length, been effected, we climbed on to the back of the mother-elephant, and taking our place in the howdah, set out on our journey to Angor Wat. Our xoad lay thxough a thick forest. As the trees by which this road was lined on each side were tall and um brageous, it proved, despite the great heat of the tropical sun, a cool and refreshing glade. After a pleasant ride of two houxs, we axxived at Angox Wat. But whexe shall we find texras in which to describe, as it ought to be de scribed, this raagnificent architectural gera ? It is one of the gxeatest monuments of art which this world contains. Indeed it is a question whether or not it has, in general respects, ever been surpassed. The purposes fox which this noble buUding was constructed are now unknown. Neither can we, with any degree of cer tainty, fix upon the period during which it was erected. Nor do we know the name of the iUustrious architect by -whom it was designed. We may, however, mention at this stage of our remarks on these extraordinary ruins, that M. Henri 64 CAMBODIA. Mouhot, who in his travels through Indo-China, visited Cambodia, states that in his opinion the Angor Wat was buUt by some of the lost tribes of Israel And in this opinion he is strengthened by the Arabic Jaquenet, who writes as foUows : — " Whether we considex the coramexcial xelations of the Jews with these countxies, paxticulaxly when, in the height of theix powex, the combined fleets of Soloraon and Hixam went to seek the treasures of Ophir — a genexic name, used, peihaps, to designate the two bodies — ox whethei we come lowei down, to the dispeision of the ten txibes, who, instead of xetuining fxom captivity, set out fxom the banks of the Euphxates, and xeached the shoxes of the ocean ; whatevei giound of explanation we lesolve upon, the shining of the light of xevelation in the fax east is not the less incorttes- table." The name of the axchitect by whom it was desig-ned and constracted is not known. He, howevei, is not without a monument to peipetuate his gieatness, foi it may, in txuth, be said to anyone who asks what monument has been elected to peipetuate the memoiy of such departed worth, — " Si monu mentum lequiiis, circumspice." But let us proceed, ha-ving in our hands, as a guide book, Vincent's celebrated work, entitled " the Land of the White Elephant," to explore this magmficent structure. First of aU then, we are called upon to traverse a long pathway, the steps of which are enclosed on each side by six large griffins, each of which is carved ict statuary of stone. This pathway, which is paved with slabs of freestone, conducts to the grand entrance of the ruins. It is, in point of length, 725 feet, and on each side thereof there is a smaU lake. These sheets of water were evidently at one time objects of great care and attention, but at present, they have very much the appear ance of lagoons or morasses. In due time we arrived at the wall by which this giand raasteipiece of aichitectuie, Angor Wat, is enclosed. The waU, which is foimed of sandstone, is, peihaps, a half-raUe squaie. On each of its sides theie aie gateways, which aie richly adomed by sculptured figures of CAMBODIA, 65 various kinds. On passing through the gate of the western wall, which is clearly the principal' entrance to the court yard, we found ourselves on a broad pathway, which, like the forraer causeway, is paved with large stone slabs. Having followed this road to the end, say a distance of 1,000 feet, we stood immediately in front of the Angor Wat, and so overwhelmed were we with its grandeur that we naturally ex claimed Phidias, Praxiteles, and Xenocrates were great, but behold one greater than either Phidias or Praxiteles or Xeno crates has been here. We now discovered that this magnificent architectural monument of a past age consists of three quadrangles, which rise, as it were, in tiers, one above the other, and which are enclosed by very extensive corridors. These corridors are buUt of stone. No raortar or adhesive matter of any kind, however, is employed to cause the stones of which the cor ridors consist to adhere. But so closely do they fit the one to the other as to utterly preclude the possibihty of any air or glearas of hght passing between them. As these quad rangles or corridors rise in tiers, the first is, of course, greater than the second, and the second than the third. At each of the four corners of the second quadrangle there is a dome- shaped tower or pagoda, each of which is, perhaps, 150 feet high. Again, at each of the four corners of the third quad rangle there is a similar structure. In the centre of the third quadrangle there is a very massive dome-shaped pagoda, which rises, perhaps, 250 feet above the level of the ground. Each of these towers or pagodas has been regarded by sorae Euro pean traveUers as xepxesenting a Linga. We, howevei, aie disposed to legaid them as lepxesenting the paiadise oi intei- mediate state, in the existence of which aU Buddhists aie taught to beheve. The stone pillais by which the vaulted xoofs of the coxii- dois aie suppoxted axe monoliths, and hexe we may pause to obseive that, of columns of this nature, there are said to be in aU not less than 6,000. On the sandstone walls of the fiist coiiidoi are caxved, in basso-ielievo, 100,000 figures, F 66 CAMBODIA. and it becomes, consequently, a vast gaUery of represen tations of sculpture. The subjects are, in a measure, selected from an epic Indian poem called the Ramayana, and which consists of 25,000 verses. This poem sings not only of the deeds of the god Eama, but of those, also, of a Prince of the xoyal house of Oudh. The sculptured representations of the battles which were waged by Hanuman, the monkey god, on the one hand, and the King of Ceylon on the othex, axe de lineated with a vividness which cleaxly manifests the great cunning of the sculptox's chisel Thexe are, also, representa tions of infantry marching three abreast with firm step and eager eye towards the enemy. Images, too, of mighty warriors being carried in war-chariots towards opposing hosts, are not infrequent. These chariots are invariably represented as being drawn by weU-conditioned hog-maned steeds. As the ears of the steeds in question are pricked, their nostrUs dis tended, and their feet beating the air, we fancy, as we gaze upon the scene, that we can not only hear them neighing but madly rushing — " To join the dreadful revelry." Again, there are representations of war-elephants, and of kings being preceded in their pxogxesses by musicians playing upon the lude musical histiuraents which weie in foxce duiing that leraote period of antiquity. UmbieUas, too, which in many Asiatic countries were and are now regarded as insignia of office, occupy prominent positions ia the pro cessions. Hippopotami, also, and buUocks, tigers, monkeys, dragons, serpents, fishes, crocodUes, and turtles are repre sented as taking parts in the extraordinary scene. But time would faU us were we to attempt to detail fuUy aU the minuti£e of this marveUous gaUery of sculptured figures. Let it suffice for us to quote the opinion of Dr. Adolf Bastian, President of the Eoyal Geographical Society of Berhn, who in the year 1864 visited these grand ruins. He says : — " The most interesting sculptures at Angor Wat are in two com partments, caUed by the natives respectively the procession CAM30DU. 67 and the three stages (heaven, earth, and heU). What gives a pecuhar interest to this section is the fact that the artist has represented the different nationalities in aU their distinctive characteristic features, from the flat-nosed savage in the vassalled garb of the Pnoni and the short-haired Lao, to the straight-nosed Eajeput, with sword and shield, and the bearded Moor, giving a catalogue of nationalities like another coluran of Trajan, in the predorainant physical conformation of each xace. On the whole thexe is such a prevalence of HeUenic cast in the features and profUes, as weU as in the elegant attitude of the horsemen, that one might suppose Xenocrates of old, after finishing his labours in Bombay, had made an excursion to the east.'' In the basement of the pagoda there are contained four idols of the sleeping Buddlia. In some of the corridors, too, there are placed raany idols, sorae of which are carved in statuary of stone, and others in statuary of wood. We also saw in one of the corridors an impression or print of Bud dha's foot. In front of two or three of these idols locks of human hair had been recently placed. Upon inquiring the cause of so siagular a superstition we were told that sick persons, with a view of propitiating the idols, and obtaining a complete restoration to health, had shorn their heads and placed the locks on the altars. Before another idol a votary had placed a book of prayers, consisting of the leaves or bark of a palm tree, on which, by a stylus, the prayers had been -written or rather engraved. It was, indeed, the raost primitive book of hturgical services, which we, at aU events, had ever seen. In reference, once more, to the locks of hair which we saw upon the altars, we may observe that we were thereby greatly reminded of what is elsewhere termed the " Nazarite vow," Thus, according to Hebrew rites, it was custoraary for persons undei a ceitain vow not to cut oi shave the haii oi beaid foi thirty days. At the end of this period these votaries lepaiied to the temple, whexe they weie shom 01 shaved, and the hair which was then taken from their heads and chins was cast on the altar and burned, Il F 2 68 CAMBODIA, such votaxies wexe in indigent circumstances, the necessaiy expenses incuxxed by this ceiemony wexe defxayed by pei- sons of wealth, and such acts of benevolence and chaiity gieatly laised men in the estiraation of the Jews, Thus we are informed by Josephus that King Agrippa, on his return to Jerusalem, having passed safely through many unforeseen dangers, gave commands that, as a mark of his gratitude, raany Nazarites were to be shaved or shom at his expense. Having thoroughly explored the ruins, we now returned to the sala or hostelry in which it was our intention to pass the night, ' This place of refuge, together -with a number of huts, con structed of mats, poles, and bamboo rods, and in which dwell Buddhist priests and their pupils, stands in front of the ruins, and is erabosoraed in the midst of cocoa, betel-nut, and sugar- palm trees. It is rendered gay and cheerftU by streamers or pendants which, as antidotes against evils, flutter in the breeze from the tops of long poles. No sooner had we entered our domicUe than a servant of one of the Buddhist monks arrived and presented us with overfio-wing cups of the juice of the fruit of the sugar-palm. This agreeable beverage is obtained in the foUowing manner. Incisions are made in the fruit when ripe, and underneath these incisions short bamboo tubes are tightly bound, in order that the exudations of juice may flow therein from the incised fruit. In a short time these tubes become charged with the fluid, which the Cambodians justly regard as a very delightful and greatly refreshing beve rage. Let us also observe that of this same juice palm-sugar is, in sorae instances, made by the natives of the country. Dinner was now served in the sala or hostelry by our servants, and of which meal we, being very hungry, freely partook. Afterwards we endeavoured by discussion to ascertain the probable reason why the extraordinary pUe of grandeur, the ruins of which were before us, had been constructed. The conclusion at which we eventuaUy arrived was to the eflect that the grand old building was a vast tomb, in which cinerary urns containing the charred remains of the kings who ruled at Angor Tam had been deposited. Now in this opinion we were CAMBODIA. 69 strengthened by the three foUowing considerations : — Firstly, Angor Wat could never have been intended as a teraple or place of worship, inasmuch as it does not, despite its vast extent, contain, and never did contain, any large halls suitable for public worship. Secondly, it could never have been erected as a monastic institution, inasmuch as it does not possess, and never did possess, any accommodation for monks. And, thirdly, it never could have been intended as a summer palace for the kings, who ruled at Angor Tara, inasmuch as it had not, and never had, accommodation for eastern kings and their large retinues. To a raagnificent eastern tomb, however, it in raany respects bears, in our hurable opinion, a most striking resemblance. At present, it affords a shelter to several large and smaU bats, domestic pigeons, and black-winged storks. The stench arising frora the bats was so overpower ing as to render, at intervals, our way through the corridors almost impossible. On the moxning of the day foUowing oui explorations of the luins of Angox Wat, we proceeded to the xuined city caUed Angoi Tam — a city which is supposed to have been the metropolis of the ancient kingdom of Kharaan. This city is not moie than two and a-haU mUes English from Angoi Wat. The xoad thithei conducts the tiavellei through a laige forest abounding in oU-tiees and trees styled by the teim poh. The oU-txees attain to a gieat altitude, and, in consequence of the oU which they contain, axe deeraed of gxeat value. In oidei to extiact oU fiom these fine tiees, the woodmen form in the trunk of each tree a shght excavation, and into which the oU flows. The liquid is then removed by means of cups into vessels, and carried, for sale, to the nearest market. On our arrival at the waUs ofthe city of Angor Tara, we were much struck with the south gate — a gate which, in architectural design is, in reahty, a gera. It has a pointed arch, and is surmounted by a head of Buddha which is sculptured in statuary of granite. The waUs of this ruined city, which consist of blocks of stone, and are in the forra of an oblong are. 70 CAMBODIA, we suppose, 20 Englissh feet high. The gateways by which it is approached, are five in nuraber. That is, there are two such appioaches on the eastern side, and one such approach on each of the three lemaining sides, Gn entering the city by the south gate, we discovered that it is now neithei more noi less than a forest. Following one of the many loads by which this once walled city, but now, UteiaUy, a walled jungle, is enclosed, we airived in front of a large stone idol of Buddha. Proceeding onwards, we came to the ruins of a temple. The piincipal feature of these ruins was a passage or causeway, if we may so term it, of waUs surmounted by twenty-five short stone pagodas. On each of the four sides of these pagoda-hke structures, there is carved a representation of the placid face of Buddha. Haviag closely inspected these ruins, we resumed our progress, and came, exe long, to a luined •edifice, whioh, when in its Ontirety, was the palace of the kings of the ancient kingdom of Kharaan, Thence, undei the guidance of a Govemment ofificei -with whora we met, we dixected oui steps to the veiy much mutUated stone idol ox statue of the lepex king. This figuxe, which is lepiesented as nude, is not, in appeaxance, at aU pxepossessing. Indeed, so Tude -and shapeless are its piopoitions as to xeflect gieatly upon the abUity of the sculptoi, Oux guide, who was e-vi dently in chaxge of the iidned city of Angoi Tam, now invited us to accompany hira to his house. This invitation we gladly accepted, and on oui aixival at his hut, we weie intioduced to his faraUy and three of his corapanions-in-aims. He then piesented us with gxeen cocoa-nuts, bananas, and the juice of the fxuit of the sugai-palm. But of this once famous city — now a vast foiest oi jungle — what is its histoiy ? It is said that, when in its splendoui, it was the metropohs of a kingdom so powerful as to exact an annual tribute from not less than 20 kings, Moieovei, it is stated that the airay of this countxy consisted of 70,000 wax elephants, 200,000 hoiseraen, and five mUlions of infan tiy, and that its txeasuies weie alraost inexhaustible. The city of Angoi Wat was visited a,d. 501 by a Chinese tiaveUei, CAMBODIA, 71 who has left a most exceUent account of his travels. He says that in his tirae, the city consisted of 100,000 houses. Now, if we aUot to each faraUy five souls, the population of the city in question must have been, in the year of grace 501, not less than 500,000 people. They and their descendants, however, have disappeared, and the city which they once inhabited, sits soUtary in the very midst of desolation and gloom. Ha-ving thus inspected aU the places of interest of which Angor Wat and Angor Tam can boast, we retraced our steps to Siamrap, where we again became the honoured guests of His ExceUency the Governor of that city and province. As on the occasion of our forraer -visit, we were lodged at the hostelry, yet it was our privUege to sit daUy at the hospitable board of the Governor, We had also, durhig this second visit to Siamrap, an opportunity of witnessing a very singular Cambodian cereraony. The nephew of the Governor, who had attained the age of puberty, was to have his head shaved for the first time, and to take, in consequence, his position in society. This ceremony, which in sorae respects reminded us of the Eoman youth recei-ving his toga, proved to us, as traveUers, of no ordinary interest. Let us describe it. It took place at the house of the youth, who was the hero of the day, and was performed by the Govemor in person. The youth, ha-ving taken his place in the uppermost story of a temporary wooden pagoda, which had been erected imme diately in front of his father's house, knelt down, and under went for the first time the operation of having his head shaved. The Govemor then took a sheU, which was sur mounted with sUver, and filling it with water, proceeded to wash the head of the youth, saying, at the same time, a few good words or prayers. As the Governor withdrew from the youth, another gentleraan of official rank approached, and also rendexed to him a simUai seivice. A thiid gentleraan now came neai, and repeated the ceiemony. The youth having, in this mannex, had his head thiee times washed, left the pagoda, and upon enteiing the laige open verandah of his father's 72 CAMBODIA. house, sat upon a cushion, which consisted of several measures of rice, and raany thay white paper parcels. WhUst he was thus seated, ten or twelve men squatted around him in the form of a circle, and proceeded to pass -the one from the other, in quick rotation, thxee circular metaUic mirrors. To the upper part of the rim of each of these mirrors a burning candle was attached, and as each person forming the circle received the mirror into his hands, he wafted the flame of the candle towards the youth. This act indicated the casting of Ught into his mind The mirrors were in this maimer passed not less than nine tiraes around this circle of admiring and congxatulating fiiends. At the close of this singulai ceiemony, a grave looking eldei blew out the candles and wafted the sraoke axising fxom the stiU heated wicks into the eyes of the youth. This act impUed, so we wexe told, the blinding of his eyes against all seductive sights. The eldex now took the buming wick oi ashes of the candle, and besmeared theiewith the forehead of the youth. This was supposed to close his mind against sin. The youth, who was goxgeously diessed, and -who wore on each of his fingexs a magnificent diamond ling, now rose from the cushion iipon which he had been sitting. No soonex had he done so than the cushion was opened, and in it wexe found sevexal measuxes of lice and many tiny white papei paicels. Of these paxcels each con tained seeds of the vaxious vegetable products of Cambodia. The lice was at once appropriated by the elder to whom we have already had occasion to refer. At this stage of the pro ceedings, seven Buddhist priests, each wearing the robes of his order, appeared on the scene, and proceeded to chant several prayers in honour of Buddha, On the altar around 01 befoie which these votaries assembled, many eucharistical offeiings of fiuits, floweis, and cakes were ananged. At the close of this religious ceiemony aU the guests asserabled were summoned to a sumptuous banquet, which was seived in an adjoining loom. We were, in a most courteous mannei, bidden to take our places at the table of the Govemor— a bidding which we most gladly ¦ obeyed. During the course CAMBODIA. 73 of the dumer a raost animated conversation respecting Euro pean nations arose, and in which the Governor took a very leading part. It was very clear to us, from certain remarks which were made, that His ExceUency laboured under an impression that aU European traveUers who visit Asiatic countries do so not simply in search of pleasure and general information, but rather in the capacity of pohtical spies. Immediately after dinner we returned to our hostelry, in order to arrange aU the necessary prelirainaries for our departure from Siararap en route to Phnom-Peng, Whilst we were in the act of packing up our portmanteaus we heard a very angry conversation, and on going to the door to ascertaia the cause, we saw two Carabodian women, who were e-vidently engaged in a very bitter quarrel. An aide-de-camp who was in attendance upon us, and who was e-vidently disgusted at the conduct of his coimtrywomen, sent an officer to thera with commands to keep the peace. At this moment, two prisoners passed our hostelry, and so tightly were their feet fettered together, as alraost to pre clude the possibihty of their walking, AU things being now ready, we got into a buUock cart, and proceeded at a rapid pace towards the head of the Lake Thalaysap, At the point in question we arrived at half-past four o'clock, P,M,, and at once embarked on our return voyage to Phnom-Peng. Sometime during the night our companion, when in a deep sleep, received a severe blow on the forehead. On awaking in agony, he declared that some one had thrown a stone at him. On a hght beiag produced, we discovered that his forehead was bleeding, a circumstance this, which induced him to declare with stUl greater vehemence, that he was right in his conjecture, A saUor who was on watch at the time, and who was supposed to be inimical to our companion, in consequence of a flogging which, at his sug gestion, he had previously received, was at once accused of this act of -violence. We, however, were fully convinced that the man was innocent of the charge, and endeavoured to make our companion think the same. It was at length very clearly 74 CAMBODIA, estabhshed, in our mind, at aU events, that the accident was occasioned by our companion inadvertently knocking his head against a sharp-edged beam or rib of the ship near to which he was lying. Without any particular incidents we, in due time, reached Phnom-Peng, and ha-sring had another audience with the King, we embarked, without much loss of time, on our return voyage to Saigon. 75 Chapter III, SINGAPOEE, Arrival at Singapore — Malayan Divers — Hospitality of Captain Caldbeck — Brief Sketch of Singapore — Streets — Town HaU — Theatre — Library and Eeading Eoom — Cathedral of St. Andrew — Gaol — Mutiny in the G-aol — Death of the Grovemor of the Gaol — Chinese Temple — Public Gardena — Gardens of the Honourable Mr. Ho ("Whampoa) — Cemetery — Pine apple Qarden^Gaylang Eoad — Cocoa-nut Plantations— Gambia Planta tion — Pepper Plantation — Tapioca Plantation — "Wild Pigs — Other "Wild Animals. As the Messagerie Maritime steam-ship " Tigre " was, on our arrival at Saigon, ready to leave that port on her voyage to Singapore, we iramediately embarked (February ]5th), and were, ere many hours had elapsed, directing our course down the Saigon river. At the end of four days our voyage was brought to a close, and on the vessel coming to her moorings in the new harbour at Singapore, we made aU the necessary arrangements for our debarkation. As we were in the act of leaving the ship, several of our feUow-traveUers were amusing themselves by throwing smaU pieces of money into the water, and for which coins five or six Malays were diving to the lowest depths of the harbour. As divers these men displayed great proficiency, never faihng to find the coins which, in order to test their diving powers, were cast into the deep. During our stay at Singapore we were most hospitably entertained by Captain Caldbeck, Superintendent of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Boat Corapany, Under the auspices of our kind host we had an excellent opportunity afl'orded us, which of course we erabraced, of seeing to ad vantage the whole island. But of Singapore let us in the 76 SINGAPORE, first instance give a brief account. It is situated at the southern point of the Malayan peninsula, and is separated from it by a very narrow strait. This strait, though so nar row, not exceeding at some points half a mile in breadth, was, at one time, the channel through which vessels of all nations, engaged in trading between India and China, used to direct their course. The island, which contains an area of 275 square mUes, is, it appears, 26 miles in length, and 13 raUes ¦ in its greatest breadth. Its surface is low and undulating, rising in some places into domed or round-topped hills. Of these mounds the highest is caUed Buket Temah. It does not exceed, however, an elevation of 500 feet above the level of the sea. The manner in which this island became a part of the colonial erapire of Great Britain may be de scribed as follows : — In 1818, the British Governraent were anxious to form a comraercial depot in the Eastem Archi pelago, In order to carry out most successfully this in tended scheme, it was important that an efificient officer should be selected. The choice fortunately feU upon Sir Stamford Eaffles, who, in 1819, made an arrangement with the Turaongong of Johore for the transfer of Singapore to Great Britain, The Turaongong received, of course, for this transfer a sura of money which was regarded by aU as a fair equivalent. In J 824, " the absolute cession of the island in fuU sovereignty was effected by a forraal treaty with the Sultan of Johore," Aud according to the t-welfth article of a treaty, which at the same time was concluded with the King of HoUand, the whole island was recognised as a portion of the colonial empire of Great Britain, It now constitutes, together with Malacca, Province Wellesley, and Penang, what is termed the Straits Settlements, Of this island the town of Singapore is the capital. It occupies both sides of the raouth of a sraall river which flows into the sea at the head of a bay of no ordinary depth of water. This city, the streets and roads of which are spacious and well laid out, possesses several pubhc buUdings of some pretensions. Of these institutions the town-hall is one of the raost prorainent. SINGAPORE. 77 It occupies a commanding position on the esplanade. The foundation stone was laid on the I7th of March, 1855, and the superstructure received its topmost stone in 1861. This building was handed over to the municipal commissioners on the 17th of March, 1864. The lower chamber of this buUd ing, which is one of considerable extent, is fitted up as a theatre, and in it dramatic representations are not unfre quently given. The library, which we also visited, was estabUshed in 1844. The volumes of which it consists are not very numerous. They are, however, well selected, and as books of reference cannot faU to be of great service to the subscribers. This institution is open daily from 10 a.m. till 5^ P.M. The Eaffles Institution, wliich was founded in 1823 by Sir Stamford Eaffles, contains a museum, hbrary, and schools. In the latter the Chinese and Malay languages are taught. The Supreme Court and the Sailors' Horae were also visited by us. Of all the buUdings, however, of which Singapore can boast, there is not one that can at aU com pare with the Cathedral This church, which is dedicated to St. Andrew, and which is furnished with five hundred seats, was commenced on the 4th of March, 1856. The foundation-stone was laid by the late Eight Eeverend Daniel WUson, D.D., MetropoUtan of India, and opened for divine service on the 6th of October, 1861. It was consecrated by the late Eight Eeverend G. E. L. Cotton, D.D., Metro- pohtan of India, on the 25th of January, 1862. At this period of time, however, the edifice was stiU incomplete, for it was not untU December, 1864, that the spire was erected. For some years it was regarded as a parish church pure and simple. But, however, on the 18th of December, 1870, it was converted into a cathedral, and is now the principal church of the diocese of Labuan. Having visited the monument which marks the place where the British standard was erected when Singapore first became a British possession, and a monument surmounted with an elephant to commemorate the first and only visit of the King of Siam to Singapore, we proceeded to the gaol, which we found to 78 SINGAPORE. be hi a state of the most perfect cleanliness. There were many prisoners within its walls, some of whom were Euro peans, others Chinese, others Malays, and others KUngS; This prison had, on the 13th of February, 1875, that is only a few days before we had an opportunity of visiting it, been the scene of a fearful carnage. .An attack was made, it ap pears, by some Chinese prisoners on one of the turnkeys. In order to protect this man from the savage brutaUty of the prisoners in question. Lieutenant Digby Dent, who was then govemor of the gaol, interposed and received, unfortU' nately, on the occasion, wounds of which he died in the course of a few days. Had it not been for the noble bear ing of the European prisoners, who immediately armed themselves and fired into the conspirators, all the turnkeys would have been put to death by their furious assaUants, and the murderers would then have escaped from prison. As it was several of them did escape, not, however, untU nineteen of their companions in crime had faUen under the deadly fire of the European prisoners. Moreover, several of the villains were wounded, and of these men not a few sub sequently died of their wounds. Of the runaways the great majority were eventuaUy captured and brought to justice. Thus thirteen of them were con-victed of -wUful murder, and of this large number of condemned men, nine were made to expiate their crimes on the scaffold. Of this dreadful con spiracy, the subjoined account was furnished by the Straits Times of February 20th, 1875. It reads as foUows : — MUTINY IN THE GAOL. " On Saturday afternoon, at about five o'clock, the commu nity were startled and alarmed by the report that the pri soners confined in the criminal prison had mutinied, and after overpowering the superintendent and warders, were escaping over the gaol waUs in aU directions, while inside they were being shot down indiscriminately. As this was the hour at which the town residents usually return home, a large crowd SINGAPORE, 79 soon coUected about the doors of the gaol on Victoria Street and Brass Bassa Eoad, and a number of the European resi dents, including several Government officials, magistrates, and justices of the peace, gained admittance to the gaol enclosure ; those less fortunate had to gratify their curiosity by such information as they could glean about the doors and among the crowd, their ears being occasionaUy greeted with the reports of rifles fired within. Among those earhest on the spot were Captaia Douglas, poUce magistrate, and Captain Dunlop, Inspectox-Genexal of Police, who enteied almost simultaneously from diffeient gates, and the mUitaiy officex at Foit Canning, who leamed of the outbreak, at once de spatched a corapany of infantiy to assist in restoring oidei, and to guaid the remaining piisoneis. The wildest lumouis gained ciedence. It was said the whole of the piisoneis had mutinied, killed and wounded the Superintendent, and aU the Euxopean and native waideis, whUe the mutineeis stUl held out, and the gaol yaid was full of the dead and wounded, and an incxedible numbei had escaped ovei the walls on all sides. As usual, report gieatly exaggerated the affair ; but the truth was indeed sad enough. Though during the confusion and excitement that prevaUed, and the varied accounts given of the uprising and the circumstances that tianspiied afteiwaids, it was not easy to discovei the facts, we have been enabled to glean a pietty accurate statement of this lamentable occur rence. It is necessary, however, in order to understand what took place, that the reader should have some idea of the internal arrangement and general conduct of the gaol. Enter ing at the Victoria Street gate, the visitor finds himseff in a passage-way, under the engineer's offices, at the rear of which is another gate, with a wicket opening outwards. This wicket gives admission into the artificers' work-yard, within which is a stationary steam-engine, blacksmith's shops, worksheds, a large pUe of buUding-poles, window frames, ladders, odds and ends of planks and bearas, and dihris of all sorts. This yard is bounded on one side by the wall on Staraford Eoad ; on the other by a wall adjoining the premises of the parochial house 80 SINGAPORE. of the Church of the Good Shepherd. A gate opens out of the back of this work-yard into the enclosure, where the wards of the native prisoners are located. These wards consist of three or four long buildings, in which are confined usuaUy sorae 700 prisoners, raostly Chinese, divided according to the grade in which they are classed — as many as 100, and some times more, being locked up in a single long room. The lower grade are usuaUy short sentence prisoners, the middle grade and upper grade consisting of "long sentence" and "life" pri soners, which classes work as artificers. Besides the confine ment wards, this enclosure also contains long sheds, under which, seated on the ground, the prisoners take their meals, the aUowance for each being placed in a tin pan, with a tin mug of water beside it. At meal-time, the European and native warders invariably stand near them, and the Superin tendent is usually present, walking up and down the path between the victualling sheds. Another gate from the back of the native wards opens into the enclosure where the Euro pean prisoners' ward is located, and a gate at the side towards Brass Bassa road, leads past the Gaol Office into the Brass Bassa road, at the point where the European mihtary guard are stationed. " On Saturday afternoon, the prisoners had finished work, and were taking their meal, which they had nearly finished, Mr, Digby Dent, Superintendent of Prisons, was walking up and down the roadway, as usual at this time, and the warders were aU at their stations, each watching the prisoners under his care, when suddenly, and without warning, two of the middle grade Chinese prisoners sprang frora the ground behind one of the warders, Mr, WilUam B, Sandford, One stabbed him in the back with a smaU chisel or sharp-pointed instru ment, while another aimed a blow at his head with a large hatchet, which he had secreted in his waistband, but fortu nately missed his aim ; the handle merely inflicted a bruise over the bridge of Sandford's nose. Mr. Dent rushed in to the shed at once, to rescue Sandford from thera, when they turned upon hira, one stabbing him repeatedly in the back SINGAPORE. 81 and about the body, wliUe another made a blow with the hatchet, cutting a score from the ear down the breast, but inflicting only a flesh wound ; at the same moment these two men shouted, and in a moment fifty or sixty of the worst characters in the gaol — robbers and murderers — sprang to their feet and rushed upon their warders, with knives, chisels, hatchets, and pieces of iron, and such other weapons as they had secreted about their persons. Mr. Dent and the warders had no weapons save stout walking-sticks, of which, however, they made good use. Mr. Dent and warder Sandford, as also warders Burton, Savage, and Francis Clarke, lay about thera with their sticks, and drove off some of their assailants, while the native sub- warders, who were mostly old Indian convicts, fought bravely to rescue the Europeans, in endeavouring to do which they weie neariy aU wounded, two veiy seveiely. Mi. Dent, in addition to his othei temble wounds, was finally feUed to the giound by a blow ovei the head -with a choppei. Sandfoid received fresh wounds, warders Burton, Clarke, Savage, and Eeading received cuts and bruises, and others were beaten with carrying-sticks used by the prisoners in bringing water into the gaol. AU this occurred -within two or three minutes, and as soon as the Superintendent and warders had been overpowered, the mutineers rushed for the gate leading to the work-yard before alluded to. This gate was guarded on the inside only, by a native peon, who was knocked down, and this avenue of escape thus thrown open to thera. They carae in peU raeU, and running to the tool chest, broke it open, those who were unarmed here providing -themselves with hatchets, adzes, iron bars, pickaxes, chisels, hammers, and anything which could serve as a weapon of offence, some seizing pointed sticks, which had manifestly been prepared for the purpose. The door leading from the work-yard to the engineer's offices, which, as we have stated, could be fastened on the outside, was well served by the convict peons, -who secured and backed up the wicket gate with all their strength. Being baulked in this avenue of escape, sorae of the prisoners seized ladders and poles, which G 82 SINGAPORE. they placed against the outer waUs on either side, and clam bering up, stiU retaining their axes and weapons, leaped from the top, at the risk of fracturing their Urabs ; but the main body of them rushed back into the yard whence they had corae, as though, elated with their success so far, they thought to get possession of the entire gaol. Gaoler Macdonald, who was in the gaol office, being merely told that some prisoners were escaping over the waU, rushed into his house, got his revolver, and gave chase, shooting one in the thigh, and pur suing the others far up towards Eochore. The police sentinel on Stamford Eoad also succeeded in catching an escaping prisoner, and another was caught by an unarmed soldier, who happened to be coming down Fort Conning HUl. The height of the wall, also, and the uncertainty of escape after leaping it, piobably made many of them hesitate ; but what evei the leason, the main poition of the gang xetuxned into the yaid where the outbieak fiist occuned. The shoit sen tence piisoneis, and the gieatei part of those of theii own giades, lemained quiet in theii places, and besought to be locked up, out of the way of the infuriated mutineeis, who numbered some fifty ox sixty, all told. The Euxopean pii soneis, mostly soldieis and saUois, begged haid to be let loose, to assist the gaol authorities in putting down the uprising, and theii gate was opened by Mi. Lamb, the head waidei. The alaxm had also been coraraunicated to the Euxopean guaid, thiee of whora came in with theix xifles. A soldiei named Felton, who is undeigoing iraprisonraent foi kUling a police peon with his belt, we are told seized a xifle fxom one of the guaid, and, -with anothei soldiei named Headley, who followed his example, was enabled to save the life of waidei Lamb, who had been home down by two Chinese, who, with axes uphfted, would in anothei second have huiled him into etemity, had not these two soldieis piovidentially shot them dead on the instant. The European piisoneis ' had rauskets placed in theii hands, but the key of the magazine was not to be found, and the doox had to be burst in with a sledge hammer, and the ammunition chest to be afterwards broken SINGAPORE. 83 open before they could obtain cartridges. EventuaUy, how ever, this was effected, and then the work of slaughter began. The rautineers, desperate savages though they were, found the European prisoners a terrible eneray to deal with ; a few attempted to make a stand, but the muskets did deadly exe cution among them, and they were either mercilessly shot down or bayoneted by the Europeans, whom the sight of blood seemed to infuriate even raore than it had the Chinese. These were driven back, and took refuge in the work-yard, and while sorae, stUl arraed, sought to avail of a last chance of escape by chrabhig the ladders, others hid themselves in the buUdings, some beneath the furnace of the boiler, some in the drains, some among the rubbish scattered about the place. A ladder, up which four prisoners were clirabing, was piUled down, and as they had axes in their hands, and in a moment would have turned upon their pursuers, they were rendered Jiors de comiat at the point of the bayonet. Another who had gained the roof of one of the sheds, and refused to come down, was shot from underneath by a prisoner, the baU passing through the entire length of his body, and emerging at the shoulder. The fighting inside the gaol lasted some time ; from the various accounts, it appears that nearly haU-an-hour elapsed from the outbreak before the mutineers were fuUy overcome. " In the meantime, however, the hospital apothecary and his assistant, as well as the Government officers and European gentlemen who had gained admittance, had been rendering what assistance they were able to in taking care of the wounded men. Mr. Dent, whose hfe was despaired of, he having received nine or ten fearful wounds, was early taken into the apothecary's quarters, where he received medical assistance. One of the stabs, we are informed, penetrated from the back into or close to the cavity of the lungs. Sand ford, though badly wounded, held out untU the last of the mel^e before he went to have his wounds dressed ; though he was then faint and suffering much pain, and is now lying helpless. Clarke received only a couple of flesh wounds, and is not confined to his house. Savage received a blow on the G 2 84 SINGAPORE. shoulder with a 32 lb. shot, laming him badly. Burton and Eedding escaped with a severe beating and a few scratches. Of the native sub-warders, no less than fourteen were wounded, two very seriously, and, though we are inforraed the wounds of the others are not dangerous, they are yet sufficiently severe to show that the poor fellows were in the thick of the fight, and sustained some shocking cuts and stabs. " The mutineers fared badly. At the conclusion of the fight, the gaol yard resembled a battle-field. Dead and wounded were lying about in aU dh-ections. Thirteen dead bodies were picked up, and two more, who were discovered to be ahve, died in hospital during the night, swelling the number of dead to fifteen. The total nuraber of wounded prisoners was twenty-four, of whom eleven are in the gaol hospital ; the other thirteen not ha-ving been sufficiently injured to necessitate hospital treatraent. The total kUled and wounded was thus thirty-nine. Araong those kUled was one of two former Chinese syces of Sir Harry Ord, who were convicted for gang robbery of a pawn-shop in Tullok Blangah ; the other syce was shot in the thigh by Mr. Macdonald, in the street, and brought back to gaol. The leaders in the attack, according to the statements of some of the other prisoners, were two prisoners from Penang, who, it is said, are in hospital, slightly wounded. Should this be the case, they wUl have a serious offence to answer for. It was freely stated in the gaol yesterday, by the warders, that some of the mutiaeers had repeatedly given trouble, and were very in tractable under the rigid disciphne of the establishment ; yet not an officer or warder was armed, the arms nominally kept for protection of the gaol were not readily available, while the ammunition was all undei lock and key in the magazine. All the gaol officeis, aud eveiy peison within the gaol at the time, unite in beaiing testiraony to the biaveiy and loyal conduct of the Euiopean prisoners, and unhesitatingly assert that had it not been for thera there would not have been a European or native warder left alive, nor a Chinese prisoner reraaining in the gaol. Especial praise is due to the soldier SINGAPORE, 85 prisoner, Felton, and his comrade Headley, to whose presence of mind and sureness of aim, gaoler Lamb owes his almost miraculous escape from certain death. The European prisoners worked untiringly, after the melie was over, drag ging in the -dead and wounded, and endeavoured in every possible way to assist in restoring order, behaving themselves with the most commendable decorum. These facts ought to weigh heavily in procuring fox them a mitigation of their sentences ; and as many of them are confined for trivial offences, we think the Gubernatorial prerogative of pardon would be wisely exercised on their behalf, " The wounding of Mr. Dent and most of the warders having seriously interrupted the internal economy of the prison, the arrival of a company of the 1-lOth from Fort Canning, imder their Officers, and of Captain Dunlop, Super intendent MaxweU, Inspector Barnum, and a number of Em-opean petty officers and police constables, opportunely assisted in restoring confidence and order throughout the gaol, and in getting the other prisoners secured for the night. Yesterday, the control of the gaol was temporarUy given over to Lieut. Hodgson of the 1-lOth, who, with a strong guard of infantry within, had all the means at his command of enforc ing order, " Though it was generaUy believed a very large number of prisoners had escaped, a careful calhng of the roll and examination of the register proves the actual number missing to be very smaU indeed. Two or three were wounded in the streets by pistol shots, and thus recovered. Seven more were caught on Saturday night by the police, and returned . to gaol at once ; and we are enabled to state on the autliority of the Chairman of the Visiting Justices, that only three now remain at large, of whora a descriptive roll has been issued, and for whose recovery rewards will be given," " The above was written yesterday. Since then we regret to learn that Mr, Dent breathed his last yesterday evening. Another wounded prisoner died in hospital, making their 86 SINGAPORE, total deaths so far sixteen, and we understand, the wounds of four more prisoners, and a Burmese sub- warder, are beUeved to be mortal. We learn, later, that Captain Douglas, who was passing along Stamford road just after the outbreak, assumed control of the gaol immediately on leaming the state of affairs, and, in conjunction with Lieutenant Lowth of the 10th, who had coramand of the military guard, retained the control throughout the night. His first efforts were directed to stop the firing, disarming many of the European prisoners, and to endeavour to restore order and secure such of the mutineers as could be found secreted about the pre mises. One was dragged out of hiding as late as 9 o'clock at night. We learn further, that the Malay or Boyanese syce of Mr. Dent was dreadfuUy wounded with an axe in the hands of an escaped prisoner whom he arrested in the street, and is now in the General Hospital. Thexe wexe many stilling incidents duiing the fight, one of the most note- woxthy being the couiageous behaviour of Mis. Lamb, a Scotchwoman, who, whUe the mutineeis wexe endeavouxing to foice the gate leading from the woik-yaxd at the xeai of the Engineei's office, aimed heiself with an old swoid, and aftei wounding one in the eye, cut away so vigorously at theii feet undei the gate, that they abandoned the attempt, in the behef that theii egiess there would be baned by a deter mined guard. " There seeras to be no doubt that the mutiny was the result of a deep laid plot, and that the warders owe their lives to the providential shower of rain which feU at the time. It had been arranged that two prisoners were to be flogged on Saturday evening for breach of prison discipline. According to the gaol system, flogging is inflicted in the pre sence of the whole of the prisoners, who form a square, in the centre of which are stationed the Superintendent, aU the warders, the medical officer, and the culprits to be punished. This -was no doubt the time when the attack was to have been made, as the entire staff of gaol of&cers -«^ould have been completely at the mercy of the assailants. Owing to the SINGAPORE. 87 heavy downpour of rain, the floggmg was postponed for to day; but having laid all their plans, and secreted their weapons for the purpose, the conspirators determined to carry out their scheme as best they could under the circumstances, and therefore made the attack as described above. " An iriquest was commenced at the gaol yesterday by A. W. V. Cousins, Esq., coroner, and a jury consisting of Messrs. Eobert Farrar, E. McAhster, John Neave, W. McKer- row, and Ah Hood, on the bodies of the fifteen Chinese prisoners who were kUled during the mutiny; but, as the proceedings wUl extend over several days, we deera it advi sable to defer publication of the evidence untU a later day." As a large Chinese teraple is one of the public buildings of Singapore, we felt in duty bound to visit it. Like all Chhiese ecclesiastical buildings, if we may apply that term to Chinese temples, it is adorned in what raay be termed a grotesque style. On each side of the grand entrance there are two large lions, carved in statuary of granite. The piUars of the temple are encircled by representations of dragons, and the beams by which the roof is supported are most elaborately carved and gilded. The principal shrine contains three small idols. Before these images there is an altar, and upon it are arranged eucharistical offerings of fruits and flowers. There are also placed on this altar, for the especial service of votaries, two small pieces of wood, each of which resembles in form the half of a rara's horn, and a box containing " sticks of fate." The votary wishing to consiUt the idol, kneels in the first instance before the altar, and whilst in that position, casts upon the gxound the two smaU pieces of wood with which he has previously provided himself from the altar. Should the concave or convex sides of these pieces of wood, on reaching the ground, be uppermost, it is understood by the votary that the deity refuses to hear him. He, however, with the hope of prevaUing upon the god to relent, again throws these pieces of wood on the ground, and, in short, continues to do so, until he succeed in placing one of them with its concave, and the other with its convex surface upper- 88 SINGAPORE. most. The pieces of wood having faUen in the position which we have last described, it is considered that the idol is wUUng and ready to listen to the votary's petition. He, therefore, in the second instance, states to the deity in a low tone of voice, the subject-matter of his petition, and then with the view of obtaining an answer, he receives into his hand a box in which sixty, and in some instances, one hundred sticks of fate are contained. This box, which is cylindrical in shape, is formed of a section of bamboo. It is, perhaps, eight inches high, and the knot in the stem imparts to it a natural bottom. The top of this box is, as a matter of course, left open. The sticks of fate, each of which is about ten inches long, and on each of which a different number is recorded, are thin, smooth, strips of bamboo. The votary consulting the god then shakes the box very hurriedly, turniag gently, as he does so, its mouth towards the ground. In due course of tirae, one of the sticks of fate separates frora the rest, and faUs frora the box on the floor of the temple. It is imraediately picked up and presented to the person in charge of the temple, who, in return, gives the votary a sheet of paper bearing a number precisely simUar to that which is recorded on the slip of bamboo. This sheet of paper contains three or four sentences of printed matter, and which, in a word, constitute the reply of the god to the votary. These sentences are, in their meaning, very vague and ambiguous, and, in consequence, admit of several inter pretations. To the votaries they are not unfrequently ex plained by fortune-teUers who, for this purpose, seat them selves either in the porches oi in close proximity to the gates of temples. Ha-ving been infoimed that the public gaidens were well worthy of a visit, we resolved to go there. On our arrival, we found that we were weU repaid. They are extensive, laid out in a most tasteful manner, adorned with tropical plants of various kinds, and exceedingly well kept. They also, in sorae respects, partake of the nature of zoological gardens. Thus, in support of this stateraent, thexe is an aviary in which are contained several of the most beautiful birds of SINGAPORE. 89 Singapore and Malacca. Monkeys, too, deer, and a bear, are in these gardens objects of interest, A few days prior to our visit, one of the deer escaped from the garden and sought a home in the neighbouring jungle, AU attempts to recap ture him had, hitherto, failed, and for aught we know to the contrary, he is stUl at large. These beautiful gardens are each Thursday evening rendered delightful as a public pro menade by sweet strains of music discoursed by a mihtary band. The garden to which, in the next instance, -we had recourse, was that of the Hon, Ho (Whampoa), It is situated at a short distance from the city of Singapore, and is, in all respects, weU worthy of a visit. Here, too, we saw a small a-viary containing birds of graceful forms and beautiful plu mage. By the proprietor of the garden, Mr. Ho, we were not only most courteously xeceived, but, at the sarae time, most hospitably entextained. The cemetexy next demanded oux attention. It is vexy laige, neatly ananged, and kept in excellent oidei. That poition of it which is set apaxt to receive the remains of all who die in communion with the Church of England, was consecrated on the 15th of Novem ber, 1864, by the Eight Eeverend Dr. McDougall, formerly Bishop of Labuan. It was now time for us to give our attention to some of the principal products for which the island of Singapore is so justly renowned. The first object, then, of this nature which attracted our notice, was a large pine-apple garden, which was hteraUy teeming with pine-apples, and owing to the colour of its fruits, presented a very gay appearance. A drive along the Gaylang Eoad with our kind and hospitable friend, Mr. Henry Geiger, of Singapore, enabled us to see many cocoa-nut plantations. The road to which, by name, we have just referred, is literaUy fringed on each side, for a considerable distance, by plantations of this nature. They form a very picturesque appearance, and at once remind the traveUer that he is within the tropics. The soU in which cocoa-nut trees grow, is of a very sandy nature, and its sur face is, in many places, as if it were covered -with a slight hoar- 90 SINGAPORE. frost. The trees are planted in rows, and between each row there is, perhaps, a distance of 18 feet. Cocoa-nuts are cultivated, in a great measure, for the oU which is dexived fiom them. It ought not to be foigotten, howevei, that from the husks coii-iope is obtained. The cocoa-nuts ha-ving been cut into pieces, the kemels are xemoved fxom the sheUs and then boiled in oidei that oU may be obtained from them. The husks, on the othex hand, aie cast into laige cistems ox troughs of water, and in which vessels, for the purpose of being soaked, they are aUowed to remain during two or three days immediately ensuing. When taken fxom the cisterns they axe quite soft, and with the -view of theii coats being removed they are passed between two loUeis, which are kept in motion by steam. The fibres which are in this mannei obtained, axe cleansed by a fan-miU, They, howevei, undeigo a second pxocess of cleansing by being cast into the aix. Of these fibies, lopes aie made accoxding to the usual method. To the cultivation of gambiex we, in the next instance, gave oux attention. All the knowledge, howevei, which we obtained xespecting the cultivation of this plant cannot be so weU expxessed by us as it has alxeady been by the authoi of a most useful and populai woik. The authoi in -writing upon this subject, says as follows : — " Another coramodity which stiU continues to be pro duced in considerable quantities in the jungle districts of Singapore, and of the growth of which probably less is known at home than of any other eastem import, is gambier, or terra japonica. As it is brought to the market there, edible gambier resembles in appearance and consistency little square rich blocks of yellow mud, in a half dry condition, and is as Uttle suggestive of its origin as can possibly be conceived, " I have already alluded to the garabier plantations in the interior of the islaud. " They are selected far from town, in the midst of the jungle, and very picturesque little clearings they are. " The plants, which are small and bushy, seldom ovex SINGAPORE, 91 seven or eight feet high, are planted six feet asunder, the leaves are smaU, smooth, and of a dark green colour, having an astringent bitter taste, " In about fourteen months from the time they are planted, the first crop of leaves may be cut, but in about two years' time the plant has attained fuU strength, and may be cropped once in two months. The croppings, which consist of leaves and young branches, are gathered together, and thrown into a huge cauldron of hot water, and boiled tiU aU the Btiength has been extiacted ; aftei this, what lemains of the twigs and leaves is withdrawn, and the liquid, which contains a strong decoction, is kept boiling for six or seven hours, tUl a great part of the water has evaporated, and nothing but a thick, pasty, fluid is left behind. " This is now poured into shaUow troughs, a Uttle more than an inch deep, and allowed to cool and dry, when it is cut up into little inch blocks, and is then ready for market. " The reason of its being cut up in this manner is twofold — first, to enable it to dry and harden more quickly, and secondly, because in this shape it is better suited to the mar kets in Siam, Cochin China, and the Archipelago, where it was originaUy, and stUl is largely consuraed as a masticatory, wrapped with betel-nut in leaves of Siri." Of the cultivation of pepper, a plantation of which wi^. also visited, the same writer says as foUows : — " Pepper, that has all along formed such an extensive article of export from the Straits, is stUl grown in large quantities both at Singapore and Penang; but it does not appear extensively among the products of Malacca. In Singapore it is grown in the same jungle districts as gambier; indeed the culti vation of the two plants generaUy goes on together, and it is advantageous that it should do so, both because the refuse of the gambier affords an excellent manure for the pepper, and because the gambier plant, not requiring much attendance between the croppings, the labourers of the planta tion, when that -work is over, can devote their time to tbe pepper. 92 SINGAPORE. " The plant, or rather vine, of the pepper is planted raore frequently frora sUps than from seeds. These are set out at distances of ten or twelve feet in regular rows, with props to each sUp, up which the young tendrUs may creep. These props are cut frora a thorny tree, strongly tenacious of hfe, and frequently take root, and thus aflbrd not only a support but a welcome shade to the young -vdnes. When the shps have been some months planted, and have attained three or four feet in height, their tendrUs are detached from the props, and the whole plant bent down and buried a few inches below the surface of the ground. In a short time the buried vine sends up a nuraber of shoots, and the strongest of these are selected and carefully trained up the props. " In appearance of leaf and manner of growth the pepper is a compromise between the common grape vine and the currant plant at home, though the leaves are perhaps a httle darker. At the end of each of the first three years a smaU quantity of pepper is obtained, and in four years the plant may be said to have matured, and yields its full return, pro bably three or four pounds weight. " The berries, which are about the size of a pea, grow in clusters, exactly Uke currants. To produce black pepper, the berries are gathered while green, about a month before they would ripen, and are at first exposed to the sun, which causes the soft outer skin to dry up round the little seeds inside, giving the rough shriveUed up appearance which the market able article possesses. They are next conveyed to a shed, and placed in a series of sieves over a slow wood fire ; this last process appears to give the pepper its black tint. " If white pepper be desired, the berries are aUowed to ripen, and become of a beautiful bright red colour ; the outer or fruity skin becoraes tender and soft, and is of a sweetish taste. " When plucked, the berries are collected in loosely- woven bags, and steeped for a day or two in water, either cold or hot. " This serves to loosen and detach the pulpy red skin that SINGAPORE. 93 covers the seed, and when taken out and dried in the sun a httle hand friction is aU that is required to clear the seeds. They are then winnowed, and thus raade ready for market. " There are sorae shght differences in the manner of pre paring both the dark and white pepper on some plantations ; but in the main they reserable that which I have described, whieh is certainly the raost general." To the extensive tapioca plantation of Monsieur Chas- seriau we next directed our course. On our arrival at the plantation we were raost kindly received by the nephew of its proprietor, who was not only at the trouble of escorting us over the plantation, but of giving us, at the same time, aU the information which we required. Again we feel that we cannot do better for our readers than to refer them to the foUowing extract : — " The tapioca tracts scarcely deserve to be caUed planta tions. There can be no more slovenly cultivation I think than that of tapioca in the Straits. A piece of jungle is cut down and fired, and as soon as the brushwood is burned away the planting comraences, amid all the confusion of fallen, half-charred logs and stumps. The plant is a bush of eight or nine feet high, and grows in great abundance in any kind of soU. It has a root very much Uke the sweet potato, and it is from this root that the tapioca is made. The roots of the young plants only are used, as the older ones are much too fibrous ; the stalk o'f the plant is very brittle, and it is planted by breaking up a stalk into a number of short pieces and sticking them in the ground ; a man can therefore stock a plantation in a day. It is said that the stalk must be put in the ground lower part do-wnward, and that if this order is reversed the root becomes poisonous; but this is believed by natives only. " When the roots are gathered they are peeled or pared, and then placed in a sort of mUl, where they are squeezed, crushed, and ground to a flowery pulp. This pulp is then taken and placed on a sieve of calico, and bucketfuls of water 94 SINGAPORE. are poured upon it, whUe a man works it backwards and for wards, aUowing the water to carry aU the substance through the calico into a tub beneath ; the rubbing is continued until the fibre only is left on the calico, and this is then laid aside and afterwards used for pig's meat. " The water, with the substance of the root, passes from the tub through a long series of vats, depositing the particles of substance, which, from their specific gravity, seek the bottom, and allow the water in the end to pass off pure. The tapioca first taken from the vat looks exactly Uke pipeclay, and untU it has undergone several washings, is discoloured ; ultimately, however, it becomes beautifuUy white, and is then aUowed to dry, when it is taken out in a sort of cakey state, but being heavy crumbles into flour on the touch, " I do not know how it receives the sort of lumpy form in which it is ordinarUy sold; for at the manufactory I examined it was made up into smaU globules or pearls like sago. The process of thus making it up is exceedingly simple, " A sort of hammock of white cloth is hung up, with a stick across the centre to distend it ; into this hammock the flour or cakey matter is cast whUe stiU a little damp, and the hammock is then rocked backwards and forwards ; from an adhesive property in the flour the motion makes it take the forra of the sraaU globules, which the longer it is rocked become the larger, something on the principle of snow- baUs. " These smaU pearls are reduced to a uniform size by being riddled through sieves. The pearl has, however, as yet no soUdity, and is reduced to powder and returned again to the hammock. " The pearls of the proper size are roUed about as much as possible and aUowed to dry, when, from a sort of affinity in their material, they graduaUy become hard, and enabled to stand the final process of rubbing with the hand on smooth boards, which gives them a pexfect consistency. Sago is made neaily the same way." SINGAPORE. y,:) In concluding these lemarks on the cultivatian of tapioca, we may obseive that the greatest eneraies to the plant aie wild pigs, of which animals the island of Singapoie contains many. These cxeatuies eat the lOots of the tapioca plant voraciously, so that it is necessaiy foi the cultivatoxs to exercise the greatest vigUance lest the ciops should, in the ' mannei to which we have lefeiied, be more oi less destxoyed. And hexe we may digiess to state that, in addition to wUd pigs, theie are other wUd animals in Singapore, such as deer and wild cats of various kinds. Tigers also were at one time common : now, however, they are very rarely, if ever, seen. Such animals were not, we believe, indigenous to the island ; on the contrary, they used to swim across the narrow straits from the Malayan peninsula. 96. Chapter IV, JOHOEE AND MALACCA. Journey to Johore — Brief Account of Johore —Breakfast at the Palace — A Eailroad in Johore — New Locomotive Engine — Gambier Plantation — Pepper Plantation — Water-spout — Malacca — ^Brief Sketch of Malacca- Court House — Jail — EngHsh Church — Eoman Catholic Church — HiU of St. Paul — Francis Xavier — Bazaars — Chinese Hongs — Shop in which Stuifed Birds are Sold — Mohammedan Mosque — Plantation of Cocoa- nut Trees — An Alligator — Inhabitants of Malayan Peninsula — Eeligion of Malays — Products — Tin Mines — Hot Springs. Having thoroughly explored the island of Singapore, we in the next instance directed our course to Johore, a town of Malacca. On our way thither we had occasion to pass through the very centre of the island. This journey, how ever, which did not occupy many hours, was easUy accom plished, as the carriage in which we drove and the roads which we had to traverse were very good. At intervals we met with oranibuses which, heavily laden with passengers, were proceeding on their way to the city of Singapore. On our arrival at the banks of the narrow strait which sepa rates Singapore from the Malayan peninsula, we found a ferry-boat of the Sultan of Johore awaiting our arrival. Entering this craft we were quickly rowed across the straits by stalwart Malays, who, judging from the earnest raanner in which they pulled, appeared to delight in their work. But of Johore let us now say a few words. It is situated near to the raost southerly point of the Malayan peninsula, and is the capital of an independent Malayan principality. It was estabUshed a,d. 1511 by the inhabitants of Malacca, who, on the capture of their city by the Portuguese, fled in that direc tion. In 1603 it also fell at the feet of the Portuguese con- JOHORE AND MALACCA. 97 querors, by whom it was entirely destroyed. In due course of time, however, it was rebuUt, and is uow, as formerly, the- head-quarters of the Sultan of Johore. On our arrival at the Sultan's palace we were received and entertained by the secretary. The Sultan was unavoid ably absent. He was on that very day performing at Singa pore, with becoming solemnity, the fimeral obsequies of his mother, who had died a short time pre-viously. After a suraptuous breakfast we quitted the palace in order to in spect a raUroad which was then being constructed between the to-«Ti of Johore and a neighbouring mountain. This work was far advanced at the time of our -visit, and has now, no doubt, been accomphshed. One of the most singular fea tures of this raihoad consists in the fact that the rails of which it is formed are made of teak wood rather than of iron. It extends over a distance of twenty English miles, and is chiefly intended for the conveyance of timber from the mountain to the to'wn of Johore. As we were inspecting this railroad we observed, amongst other objects of interest, a number of men who were busily engaged in landing a new steam-engine. This locomotive, which was exceedingly well- constructed, had just arrived from India, and was, of course, the first engiae of the kind which had ever been seen in Johore, We all agreed, after an inspection of the railway and other works, that the Sultan of Johore, who is a raost enterprising Prince, is well deserving of the esteem and affec tion of his subjects. We now proceeded to inspect a gam bier plantation, which afforded us much interest. As we have, on a preceding page, dwelt fuUy upon the cultivation of the garabier plant, there is no need for us to add here any further remarks. Thence we hastened to a pepper planta tion. As we were returning we saw a water-spout, which was so nigh at hand and so extraordinary in its nature, as to attract the attention of almost all the inhabitants of the town of Johore. As Malacca, which is also a city of the Malayan peninsula, was deemed worthy of a visit, we in the next place wended H 98 JOHORE AND MALACCA. our way thither. It is situated on the west coast of the peninsula. On the occasion of the Portuguese (a.d. 1508) visiting this part of the world, the city of Malacca, which was founded a.d. 1252, was in the possession of the Sultan of Johore. The Portuguese, however, on discovering that it might be made the centre of a vast trade between Japan, China, Formosa, the PhUippine Islands, Tonquin, Cochin- China, Cambodia, and Siam, greatly longed to take possession of it. A pretext for carrying out this desire at length presented itself A quarrel arising between the Portuguese and the Malays, several of the former were arrested by the Sultan of Johore, and cast into prison. Albuquerque, the distinguished leader of the Portuguese, at once declared war against this eastern potentate, and eventually succeeded in w];'esting Malacca from him. As an emporium for aU the various com mercial commodities of the surrounding countries, it quickly became one of the richest cities in Asia. It was soon raade the centre of a see, and the cathedral church, erected in honour of the occasion, was dedicated to Saint Paul. It, how ever, was not the only church of which Malacca could boast, for in addition to it five parish churches were erected. In due tirae a coUege for priests of the order of Jesus sprang iato beirig, together with a serainary, in which all Malayan con verts were taught the doctrines of the Church of Eome. A very strong fort, with the view of renderhig the place im pregnable, was also constructed. This newly acquired posses sion remained in the hands of the Portuguese untU 1642, when it feU to the Dutch. The HoUanders held undisputed sove reignty over it untU 1795, when they were obliged, wi et armis, to yield it to the British. But, however, at the peace of Amiens, 1801, it was restored to the Dutch. HostUities having been renewed in the year 1807, it again became a British possession, and continued as such until 1818, when it was a second time restored to the Dutch. It was destined, appa rently, to faU once more into the hands of the British. Thus, in 1824, it was finaUy handed over to the British by the JOHORE AND MALACCA. 99 King of the Netherlands in exchange for certain possessions which they had obtained on the coasts of the island of Sumatra. During our stay at Malacca we visited the court-house, gaol, Enghsh church, and the Eoman Catholic church. In the court-house, which is a buUding of no pretensions, ses sions were being held by the Eecorder of Singapore. One of the most important trials which took place on the occasion was that of a respectable citizen of Malacca, who was ar raigned on the charge of ha-ving embezzled a few shillings. As we left the colony before the termiaation of this trial, we are ignorant of the issue. It did, however, appear strange to us that a raan who had held a respectable position in society, should imperU that position by so trifling a fraud. The EngUsh church is, in point of architecture, of the Italian style. The Eoraan Cathohc church, which is more imposing than the Enghsh church, is cruciform in shape. At the west end of this edifice are two towers. We also visited the hiU of Saint Paul, on the summit of which stand the ruins of a church, which was erected by the famous Portu guese Coraraander Albuquerque. Around and within these crumbhng waUs are a few torabs, in which, ff we mistake not, the remains of Dutchmen repose. The tower which stands in front of this ruined church is stUl intact. It is, however, no longer used for sacred pur poses, having been converted into a hght-house or beacon. As we were wandering about this ruin, our mind naturally turned to Francis Xavier. For was not this spot the scene of the labours of that great apostle who was, perhaps, one of the most devoted missionaries of whom it has ever been our lot either to hear or read ? He was as superior in aU re spects to the Jesuits of the past and present period as the hght of the sun is to that of the moon, or as wine in strength exceUeth water. On withdrawing from this hiU we visited the bazaars, and were much pleased with the neat appearance of many of the houses. Those in which Chinese merchants were residing H 2 100 JOHORE AND MALACCA. were especiaUy attractive. On the panels of the entrance doors of several of these dweUing-houses were carved good words in letters of gold. In our extensive travels through China we had nowhere observed this custom. It appeared, therefore, to us as somewhat new and singular. In one shop whieh we visited, many stuffed birds were on sale. They were of the richest plumage, and were, one and aU, natives of the Malayan peninsula. The Mohammedan mosque which we also entered is a neat structure. The minaret which stands near to it is in the form of a Chinese pagoda, and is used by the muezzins, who, at the stated hours of prayer, resort to its topraost story to call the faithful to prayers. As there is a large drum in the uppermost story of this pagoda, it is custo mary, we suppose, for the muezzins to suramon the faithful to prayers by its sound rather than by the human voice. At tached to this mosque there is also a large lavatory, in which, pre-vious to praying, the votaries wash their feet and hands. We now took a drive into the country, and were indeed struck with the vast number of cocoa-nut trees which were growing on every side. As the weather is warra in Malacca, and as our thirst was, in consequence, great, we had, of neces sity, frequent recourse to the mUk of the cocoa-nut. We were greatly amused at the dexterity with which httle boys, Malays, chmbed to the tops of the taUest of these trees, in order to pluck for us fresh fruit. And we were surprised, too, at the smaU sums of money which, for their labours and the fruit, they demanded at our hands. As we were leaving, a Malay begged of us to buy a young aUigator which he had for sale, and one of our party became its purchaser. When it was received on board the vessel, it was the source of much merriment on the part of the majority of the crew, as one of the officexs entextained the greatest hoiioi of such ciawhng creatures. He fled from the piesence of the animal -vvith feelings of gieat tiepidation, and was evidently not a Uttle giatified when he learned on the foUowing raoming that the object of his teixoi had died duiing the night. JOHORE AND MALACCA. 101 But ere we take our leave of the Malayan peninsula, let us add a few words respecting its iahabitants and vegetable products. The inhabitants are di-vided into various tribes, some of which are not altogether of Malay origin. In some parts of the country are found negroes, aU of whora bear the most unmistakeable characteristics of that African branch of the human famUy. The Malays are governed by what raay be terraed feudal laws. The chief, who bears the title of Sul tan, gives his coramands to his great vassals or nobles, and through them to the people. The Malays in point of character are restless, warhke, fond of plunder, daring adventurers, gal lants, gamblers, and cock fighters. They boast, too, perpetuaUy of their honour and bravery. They are, nevertheless, regarded by many as being the most faithless and ferocious people on the face of the earth. The language which they speak is par ticularly soft and musical Of this language HamUton -writes in the foUo-wing terms : — " There is no inflexion of any part of speech to express relative number, gender, time, or mood ; and a word is often used, -without alteration, as a noun, adjective, verb, or adverb. The tenses of a verb are sometimes expressed by auxUiaries, soraetimes by adverbs, but not unfrequently both are omitted, and the reader is left to gather the raeaning from the context, the sentiment being rather hinted at than expressed. The language, as spoken in the year 1521, in the island of Tidore, when visited by a companion of MageUan, is said to have been precisely that of the present day." The reUgious faith professed by the Malays is that of Mahomet, and to which faith they were, if we mistake not, converted some time during the thirteenth century. The Malayan peninsula produces odorfferous woods, such as aloes and cassia. The sago tree suppUes, in a great raeasure, the defect of grain. It is a species of palm tree, and grows naturaUy hi the woods to a height of twenty or twenty-five feet. Its hgneous bark overspreads a great number of long fibres, which, being intertwined one with another, cover a quantity of meal of a gelatinous nature. A whitish powder 102 JOHORE AND MALACCA. which exudes through the pores of the leaves and adheres to their extremities indicates that the tree is ripe. " The Malays then cut thera down near the roots, and di-vide thera into several sections, which they spht into quarters. They then scoop out the raass of raealy substance, which is enveloped by and adheres to the fibres. They dUute it in pure water, and then pass it through a straining bag of fine cloth in oxdel to sepa- late it flora the fibies. When this paste has lost paxt of its moistuie by evapoiation, the Malays thxow it into a kind of eaithen vessel of diffeient shapes, where they allow it to diy and haiden. This paste is wholesome nourishing food, and pieseives fox many yeaxs." The gxound, too, is beautified and adomed with the most odoriferous floweis, and of which throughout the yeai there is a legulai succession. Tin mines are woiked in vaiious paxts of the teriitoiy. Coal, howevei, despite a most diUgent seaich undei the auspices of the British Govemment, has not been found throughout the land. Hot spiings, which indicate a volcanic action, have been discovered. The climate is legaxded as one of a most salubiious natuie. This may be accounted foi on the giound that the gieat heat of India does not prevail in Malacca, noi axe thexe such scoxching winds as those which aie experienced in othei parts of Asia, But of Malacca we have now said enough. 103 Chapter V, SIAM. Voyage to Siam — Gulf of Siam — Island of Tioman — Mode of capturing Eieh — Curing Fish — Bangkok — The Wat or Temple of Sleeping Buddha — Several graceful Dagobas or Pagodas — 'Wat Cheng or "Wat Shang — ¦ "Wat Conlayer — Nemis — Colossal Idol of the Last Buddha — Wat or Temple in Form of a Chinese Junk — Tower of Babel — Buddhist Priests — Priests supported by the People — Bangkok, the Venice of Asia — Water Streets and Floating Houses — The King's Palace — King's Body Guard — The Wat Phran Kean, or Temple of the Emerald Idol — Old Audience HaU — New Audience HaU — Treasury Buildings — Museum — Stable containing White Elephants — Ehinoceros — Wild Beasts — Jar of Sacred Oil — Singular Manner in which it was obtained — Cunning of Tiokery — Place where Dead Bodies are exposed to be devoured by Dogs and Birds — Funeral Pyres on which Bodies are Burned — Garden of Siamese Minister for Foreign Aifairs — Cemetery — Ancient City of Ayuthia — Trap in which Wild Elephants are caught — Elephants useful as Beasts of Burden — Deserted City of Ayuthia — Its History — Con stantine Phaulkon — His Works — His Death — Appearance of Country — Herds of Buffaloes — Black Buffaloes — White Buffaloes — Products of Siam — Pariah Dogs — Cats — Crows — Lizards — Took-kaa. Now in oidei to proceed to Siam, it was necessaiy foi us to xetuxn, in the fixst instance, to Singapoie. The lattei port we reached on the 22nd of Febiuaiy, 1875, and in the evening of that day at six o'clock, we embaxked in the Siaraese steara ship " Bangkok " on oux voyage to Siam. At eleven o'clock, P.M., we passed the Hoisbuigh Lighthouse, and at dayhght on the foUowing day, the 23xd, we sighted the island of Pulo- .0-01. Oui couise was now diiected between that island and one which is named Pulo PomangU. In passing between these islands we saw, in the distance, the island of Tioman. On the southern extiemity of the island in question theie aie three conical peaks, which owing to theii singulai shape, are styled the Asses' Eais. There is a sraaU viUage situated on 104 SIAM, Tioman, the inhabitants of which live chiefly by fisMng, They are, of couise, subjects of the Khig of Siam, The natives of Tioman aie not the only people who gain a Uvelihood by diawing fish fiora the GuU of Siara, Thus at the mouths of almost aU the liveis which flow into this gieat gulf are stationed fisheimen, who by means of traps bi snares capture laxge quantities of fish. Each of these nets ox snaies is from a mUe to two miles in length, and is ananged in such a foim as to resemble the lettei V, and is placed in those parts of the gulf where the cunents aie stiongest. The fish, as a mattei of couise, swim against the stream, and seek theii food as they move towaids what may be teimed the angle of the net. The nets are so constiucted that they fall and rise " like a bucket in a weU, and bring up at almost eveiy dip thousands of fish, chiefly of the Platoo kind," The fish as they come to hand axe thxown quickly into boats, and conveyed without much loss of time to the raouth of the livei. Heie the piopxietors of flsh establishments are wait ing, who readUy bid foi each load of fish. They employ both men and women, at a veiy low rate of wages, to cure the fish. The process of salting fish may be described as foUows. They are thrown into large wooden troughs or tubs containing brine, and in which vessels they are suffered to remain three days. At the close of this period, they are reraoved from the tubs, and exposed on low bamboo shelves during three days ensu ing, to the rays of the sun. When fuUy cured, they are sold on the average at the rate of 10,000 for twenty-two ticals. Many of them becorae putxid eie they can be cast into the tubs of brine. These waste fish are legaided as exceUent raanure foi the betel-nut oichaids. It is surely needless for us to obseive that such cultivated lands when besraeaied with manuie of this natuie emit an odour which is most revolting to the olfactoiy nerves. Early in the raorning of the 25th we sighted Pulo Pan- jong, and at ten o'clock p.m. of the same day, we passed Pulo- Way. On the 26th a view of Koh-Kram and Pilot Island interrupted the dull monotony of our voyage, and at SIAM. 105 half-past one o'clock in the aftemoon of the following day it was OUI happiness to aiiive at Bangkok. Duiing this voyage we received veiy great kindness at the hands of Mr. Heblin, who was at the tirae commander of the vessel in which we sailed. The charming society of Mrs. Hebhn, who was also on board, tended very much to make the voyage most agreeable. The sailors, who were Siaraese, also araused us by the dexterous manner in which, by raeans of baited hooks laid over the stern of the vessel, they caught large fish. No sooner had the vessel arrived at her anchorage than we landed, and, at once, hastened to visit aU the objects of interest, which were within our reach. The first place to which we directed our steps was the temple caUed Wat-Po. This large Buddhist fane, which is immediately contiguous to the waUs of the palace, contains a colossal idol of the sleeping Buddha. This figure, which is one hundred and forty-five feet in length, at the shoulders, and sixty-five feet in height, is constructed of bricks and asphalte, and adorned by a coating of gold leaf The soles of the feet of this recumbent idol are sixteen feet in length, and are inlaid with mother-o'- pearl. On each side of the idol are arranged images of tigers and fabulous creatures. Of these imaginary animals, some are represented as possessing the bodies of birds and the heads of women. The inner waUs of the temple, too, are UteraUy covered -with paintings, which represent, in some instances, events in the Ufe of Buddha, and in others, cir cumstances connected -with Buddhistical history. In one open couxt-yaxd, which closely adjoins this temple, are many graceful dagobas, or pagodas, as they are more generaUy designated. Nigh to this place, there also stands a wat or temple, in honour of the last Buddha, the doors of which are elaborately inlaid with mother-o'-pearl In its court-yard, which is enclosed on each side by a corridor, there are arranged stone figures which represent warriors clad in coats of maU, and othexs, -wxought in bionze, which are in the foim of elephants. At one of the entrance doois, too, of this area are 106 SIAM. placed two laige stone effigies which faithfuUy lepxesent men of Euiopean nations. In the conidois, also, theie aie placed on a maible dais, seveial gUded idols of the last Buddha. At a veiy short distance beyond the couxt-yaid which we have just descxibed, thexe stands a squaxe towex which in point of aichitectuie, greatly resembles a Chinese pagoda. We now crossed the Eiver Meinam and -visited the Wat Cheng or Wat Shang. In this wat there is an idol of the last Buddha, together with two busts of Napoleon the First of France. In the court-yard are placed several images, in statuary of granite, representing buffaloes, cows, camels, and horses. Upon each of these beasts a raan is represented as riding. This court-yard is enclosed on each side by colonnades, in which are ananged several gilded idols of the first Buddha. There are also two statues in granite, which represent English soldiers. The lofty dagoba which stands near to this edifice is described by Vincent in the foUowing words : — " The Wat Cheng pagoda is beU-shaped, -with a lofty tapering steeple — a prachadi, sacred spire ; the whole probably two hundred and fifty feet in height. It is built of brick, and plastered on the outside, which is -wxought into a grotesque and fantastic raosaic with Chinese cups, plates, and dishes of all sizes and colours, broken and whole, so set in the plaster as to form figures of elephants, monkeys, deraons, and griffins, flowers, fruits, -vines, and arabesques. In large niches upon the sides, at nearly half the distance to its top, are images of Buddha riding on three elephants. The grounds of Wat Cheng, some twenty acres in extent, erabrace — besides the priests' dweU ings, temples, preaching-room, Ubrary, and halls — beautiful flower and fruit gardens, ponds, grottoes, belvederes, and stone statues (brought from China) of sages, giants, warriors, griffins, nondescripts, &c." This large dagoba is approached by a very perpendicular staircase, from the top of which we obtained a very extensive and comraanding view of the city of Bangkok and its environs. On our descent from this lofty structure our attention was directed to a smaU tower in which was contained a print or impression of Buddha's foot. This SIAM. 107 imaginary footprint of the founder of the Buddhist religion is regarded as highly sacred, and receives, in consequence, much adoration at the hands of a pagan people. We, in the next instance, visited a large wat, which belongs, apparently, to the Chinese. It is styled Wat Con layer Nemis, and is enclosed at the top by a roof of great altitude. It contains a very colossal idol of the last Buddha, In very close proximity to this wat were two sraaUer ones. Of the wats in question one was especiaUy singular, as it con tained an idol of Buddha, representing that worthy as sitting upon a rock, and having on one side a brazen effigy of an elephant, and on the other a leaden iraage of a monkey. On our way frora this last mentioned wat to the residence of the Borneo Company, Liraited, where we were most hospitably entertained by Messrs, Foss and Clarke, we inspected a wat which we found exactly resembhng an ocean-going Chinese junk. This singular looking temple, which is of the fuU size of a Chinese junk, is made of bricks and mortar. We then inspected an unfinished pUe of a dagoba, which is not inaptly termed by foreign residents at Bangkok, the " Tower qf Babel" It is a vast mound of red bricks. Its foundations ha-vdng given way, the superstructuxe which it was intended by a foimei king should be raised thereon, was in consequence abandoned. We climbed by a veiy imsafe staiicase, to the surarait of this mound, and were lewaided by an extensive view of the city. At the base of this huge pUe of masoniy of bricks, stand many houses, in which bonzes 01 pxiests of the sect of Buddha xeside. As we were passing many of these priests, each wearing yeUow robes, and walking barefooted, weie enteiing the neighbouring stieets in oidei, as is customaiy, to beg theii daily bread. They are, appa iently, a set of lazy feUows, who not only .claim foi them selves a high position in the ranks of men, but, at the same time, insist on honourable titles being applied to them by theii feUow-citizens. Of these priests, Sii John Bowiing, in his woik entitled The Kingdom and People of Siam, wxites as foUows : — " Thxee hundred Phra receive daily their 108 SIAM. alms from the hands of the Kiag; and this almsgiving is, in the minds of the Siamese, a raerit of a high order, en titling them to expect recompense in the next stage of their existence, be that what it may. It is not unusual for a noble, as a work of pre-eminent exceUence, to emancipate a slave that he may become a bonze. In the fifth month, at the full moon, the Phra wash the feet of their superiors, and the people wash the feet of the Phra. Compared with the pri-vUeges and exemptions which the bonzes enjoy, their privations are very few : ' they toil not, neither do they spin ;' they make no contributions to statute labour; they pay no taxes, render no services to the Sovereign of the State, Once in every year, they are required to pass the nights of three weeks in the foiests, in fiaU huts buUt of bamboo and palm-leaves, when they aie supposed to be engaged in lonely contemplation. The people beUeve not only that they are safe from attack, but that wUd beasts come and lick their hands and feet whUe they aie occupied in theii meditations. Among the Phra, some may be seen who appeal wholly absoibed in thought; howevei neai you approach, you can obtain no attention, oi only a lepeUing fiown ; they have theii eyes fixed on the giound, an expression of peipetual gloora on their -nsage, and their hps cease not to repeat prayers in the PaU tongue. But in others, the force of nature breaks down all restraints and acerbities, and they wUl be found busy, talkative, curious, and even courteous. In fact, whatever mask he wears, in whatever garments clad, to whatever laws subjected, by whatever engagements bound, the original type is seldora wholly effaced, and the man is found hidden beneath the vestraents of the Phra." On the raorniag of our second day at Bangkok, we rose at a veiy eaily houi, and at once le-enteied upon the agieeable duty of sight-seeing. As we proceeded along the river in a boat, which was superior in point of accommodation and comfort to any gondola which we have as yet seen, we felt that Bangkok was certainly the Venice of Asia. Thus the streets by which this city are intersected are SIAM. 109 either creeks or canals. The majority of the houses, too, are either floating-buUdings, that is edifices raised upon bamboo- rafts, or houses supported by pUes. Floating dweUing-houses extend, for a very considerable distance indeed, along the banks of the river, and are bound together by rattan-ropes. Moreover, each raft, with its superstructure, is raade fast to poles which are driven into the sandy bed of the river. These fastenings are so arranged as to adrait of the raft rising and faUing with the tide, for the river Meinara, on which Bangkok stands, is a tidal streara. Should the inraates of any one of these floating homes wish to remove theraselves and their teneraent to another part of the river, they have simply to cast off the moorings, and go with the tide. There is gene rally an open space enclosed by balustrades in front of each of these floating-houses, and it is, indeed, amusing to see, every raorning and evening, parents and chUdren sitting or squatting thereon, in order to enjoy the cool and refreshing breezes. But let us not forget to observe that of these floating tenements not a few are shops in which articles of various kinds are exposed for sale. Among the first objects which attracted our attention was a number of Buddhist priests, who, seated in their respective punts, were going frora floating-house to floating-house, and frora ship to ship, in search of their daUy bread. In due course of time we anived at the palace, and were just in time to see the King returning frora his raoming's drive. He was seated in a buggy, to which was yoked a sprightly-looking steed. The Eang himself was charioteer, and from the dex terous manner in which he handled the reins, we at once per ceived that he was a first-class " whip," By his side a very young prince was seated, and immediately behind the buggy two or three princes were riding on horseback. In front and rear of the buggy were horse-soldiers who, owing to their helmets of brass and their mihtary coats of a red colour, greatly reminded us of a company of English dragoons. There were also some lancers in attendance. So soon as the royal eorUge had entered the palace-grounds, the band, each 110 SIAM. member of which was provided with an European musical instrument of one kind or other, played the Siamese national anthem. The King, on alighting from his carriage, entered, for the purpose of paying his matutinal devotions, a temple which stands within the palace-grounds, and which is styled the Wat Phran Kean, or Temple of the Emerald Idol, He occupied, on the occasion, an elaborately-adorned chair of state, near to which was placed a smaU marble-topped table. The altar was covered with eucharistical offerings of fruits- and flowers. The Buddhist priests, who were in attendance to conduct the service, wore gorgeous robes, and thioughout the ceiemony, a band piovided with Siamese musical instraments, played appropriate aiis. As the King, at the close of this sei vice was leaving the temple we had the honour of exchanging salutations -v\dth hira. It was also proposed by his minister of state that at a latei houi of the day we should have an audience with his Majesty. Of this privUege, howevei, we could not, owing to a multiplicity of engagements, avail ouiselves. We now proceeded, the King having withdrawn, to examine this Temple of the Emerald Idol in detaU, and were, indeed, much astonished at its wealth and grandeur. Of this temple Vincent writes in the foUowing terms : — " The model is similar to the others, but the workmanship, both exteriorly and in teriorly, is of a much higher order. The walls are covered with admirably executed paintings ; the floor is laid over with brass bricks. The altar, built in the shape of a pyramid, about sixty feet high, is surmounted by the ' emerald idol,' — an image twelve inches in height and eight in width. ' Into the virgin gold of which its hair and collar is composed,' says a recent observer, ' must have been stirred, whUe the metal was yet molten, crystals, topazes, sapphires, rubies, onyxes, amethysts and diamonds, the stones crude and rudely cut, and blended in such proportions as might enhance to the utmost imaginable limit the beauty and cost of the admired effigy.' On the altar there are many large images, covered with genuine precious stones; also some lusus nature, as extraordinarily formed tusks of the elephant and rhinoceros, SIAM. Ill beautifuUy carved raarble statues, clocks, golden altar utensUs, and garraents which belonged to the late King. The reigning monarch worships in this temple, and here, also, the nobles take thp oath of allegiance. On either side of the principal entrance stand two life-sized marble statues, whose history I could not learn, of Saint Peter, and of Ceres, the Eoman goddess of agriculture. Near this wat is a smaU pagoda, which, in an enormous pjT-amidal cabinet of ebony and mother-o'-pearl, contains the Buddhist sacred books. A carpet raade of sUver wire Ues upon the floor. Adjoining this is a large pagoda which has been ten years in building, and has already cost over 200,000 doUar.«, and two years raore wiU be necessary for its corapletion. The interior side of the waU which surrounds the Teraple of the Eraerald Idol is covered with gorgeous paintings of old Siaraese fables and superstitions." In our inspection of the palace, we visited, in the first instance, the old audience haU. The throne, which stands in it, is raagnificent, and is covered by an umbrella or canopy, having seven or nine folds of white silk. Behind the throne are arranged three gUded statues, which represent three of the royal predecessors of the present sovereign. Thence we proceeded to the new audience haU. This chamber, which is in the form of a cross, is not only spacious, but grand. The throne, too, which is placed therein, is very imposing. The floor is carpeted, and upon the walls is placed an oU painting, which represents the Siamese embassy in the act of presenting a letter from the King of Siam to the Emperor Napoleon III. of France. We also -visited the Treasury buUdings and the King's private apartments. The museum of the palace also has its attractions. It contains weapons of warfare, elephants' tuskg of great size, bronze busts of three or four European sovereigns, vessels of gold, oU paintings, engravings, &c. In the courtyard of the palace are arranged various figures in statuary of granite. In addition to these images, there are two leaden statues of milch cows. They are exceedingly well made, and so natural as to afford the most undoubted evidence 112 SIAM. of their having been made by European hands. The court yard of the palace also contains a large gun, which, it appears, was taken in battle from the Malays. The sacred elephants were the next objects of interest for us to see. They are four in nuraber, and are, by a wonderful stretch of the imagination, caUed white elephants. One of thera raight, perhaps, be termed an Albino, whUe the others are only in parts white. These ponderous beasts are ennobled, or, in other words, titular rank is conferred upon each of them by the sovereign. Each stands in a separate stable, and under the shade of a white canopy. On the side- post or piUar of each stall is placed a tablet, on which is recorded the titles of the elephant. We now entered a large stable in which ordinary elephants are contained. In this place a rhinoceros is also stalled. This beast stands in a pool of mud or slush, and has, in consequence, a very filthy appearance. In writing of wUd beasts, we raay further state that we saw in the courtyard of the palace two leopards and one lion. They were, one and all, very restless, and appeared — especiaUy the Uon — as if weary of confinement. Before taking leave of the palace, let us not forget to mention an opinion which prevaUs, to the effect that either in one of the wats or in the palace of Bangkok, there is deposited a jar containing sacred oil. The story with regard to this sacred oil is recorded as foUows in Cameron's in teresting work, entitled, " Our Tropical Possessions in Malayan India" : — " When the English took possession of Ceylon,* Tickery Bundah and two or three brothers — children of the first minister of the King of the Kandians — were taken and educated in English by the Governor. Tickery afterwards becarae raanager of coffee plantations, and was so on the arrival of the Siaraese mission of priests in 1845 in search of Buddha's tooth. It seems he raet the raission returning disconsolate, having spent some £5000 in presents and bribes in a vain endeavour to obtain a sight of the reUc, Tickery learned their story, and at once ordered them to unload their * The above is Tickery's own story. SIAM, 113 carts and wait for three days longer, and in due time he pro mised to obtain for them the desired view of the holy tooth. He had a cheque on the bank for £200 in his hands at the tirae, and this he offered to leave with the priests as a guarantee that he would fulfil his promise ; he does not say whether the cheque was his own or his master's, or whether it was handed over or not. Perhaps it was the cheque for the misappropriation of which he found his way to the con- ¦vdct hnes of Malacca,* The Siamese priests accepted his undertaking and unloaded the baggage, agreeing to wait for three days, Tickery imraediately placed himseU in commu nication with the then Governor, and represented, as he says, forcibly the impositions that must have been practised upon the King of Siam's holy mission, when they had expended aU their gifts and not yet obtained the desired view of the tooth, "The governor, who, Tickery says, was a great friend of his, appreciated the hardship of the priests, and agreed that the rehc should be shown to thera with as little delay as possible. It happened, however, that the keys of the mosque where the relic was preserved were in the keeping of the then resident CouncUlor, who was away some eight mUes elephant shooting. But the difficulty was not long aUowed to remain in the way, Tickery immediately suggested that it was very improbable the Councillor would have included these keys in his hunting furniture, and insisted that they must be in the Councillor's house. He therefore asked the Governor's leave to caU upon Mrs, , the resident CouncUlor's wife, and, presenting the Governor's compliments, to request a search to be made for the keys, Tickery was deputed ac cordingly, and by dint of his characteristic tact and force of language, canied the keys triumphantly to the Governor. " The Kandy priests were imraediately notified that their presence was desired, as it was intended to exhibit the great reUc, and their guardian offices would be necessary. Accord ingly, on the third day the mosque or temple was opened ; * He was, for some reason or another, eventually transported to Malacca for seven years. 1 114 SIAM. and in the buUding were assembled the Siamese priests and worshippers, with Tickery on the one side and the Kandy or guardian priests on the other, the Eecorder and the Governor in the centre. " After making aU due offering to the tooth of the great deity, the Siamese head priest, who had brought a golden jar fUled with otto of roses, desired to have a smaU piece of cotton, with some of the otto of roses rubbed on the tooth, and then passed into the jar, thereby to consecrate the whole of the contents. To this process, the Kandy priests objected, as being a Uberty too great to be extended to any foreigners. The Siaraese, however, persevered in their requests, and the Governor and Eecorder, not knowing the cause of altercation, inquired of Tickery. Tickery, who had fairly espoused the cause of the Siamese, though kno-wdng that in their last request they exceeded aU precedent, resolved quietly to gratUy their wish ; so in answer to the Govemor's inter rogatory, took from the hands of the Siamese priest a small piece of cotton and the golden jar of oU. ' This is what they want, your honour; they want to take this sraall piece of cotton — so ; and having dipped it in this oil — so ; they wish to rub it on this here sacred tooth — so ; and having done this to return it to the jar of oil — so ; thereby your honour to consecrate the whole contents.' AU the words of Tickery were accompanied by the corresponding action, and of course the desired ceremony had been performed in affording the explanation. The whole thing was the work of a moment. The Govexnoi and Eecoidex did not know how to inteipose in time, though they knew such a proceeding to be against all precedent. The Kandy priests were taken aback, and the Siamese priests having obtained the desired object, took from Tickery's hands the now consecrated jar, with every demon stration of fervent gratitude. ' The Kandy priests were loud in their indignation ; but the Governor, patting Tickery on the back, said, ' Tickery, my boy, you have settled the ques tion for us ; a pity it is you were not born in the precincts of St. James's, for you would have made a splendid political agent.' SIAM. 115 " Tickery received next raorning a douceur of 1,000 rupees from the priests, and ever since has been held in the highest esteera and respect by the King of Siara, also by the Buddhist priests, by whom he is considered a holy man. From the King he periodicaUy receives honorary and substantial tokens of royal favour. He has a carte blanche to draw on the King for any amount, but he says he has as yet contented hiraself -with a moderate draft of 700 doUars." On -withdrawing from the palace we directed our course to a place where the dead bodies of raen are exposed. Thus, for example, some persons express a wish that in case of their dissolution their corpses should be exposed here, with the view of their becoming a prey to -vultures, crows, and dogs. At the time of our visit to this aceldema, two corpses were being devoured by dogs, vultures, and crows. A -wretched- looking Siaraese was squatting on the ground, and gazing with apparent admiration at the manner in which these birds and beasts of prey were tearing the corpses into piecemeal. Between this miserable specimen of the huraan race and these winged and canine scavengers there appeared to exist a perfect understanding. On our approach, however, they aU took fright, the dogs running away, and the birds seeking safety on the top of a neighbouring waU. On one side of this plot of ground were erected two or three posts, and to each of which weU-picked skeletons or bones of raen were bound by cords. Each reminded us of a memento mori. Not far distant from the scene which we have just described were funeral pyres, on which the corpses of men in general are consumed by fire, and around them are arranged broad wooden settees, on which Buddhist priests occasionaUy squat, and, as we suppose, meditate on death. Having been informed that the garden of the Siamese Minister for Foreign Affairs was one worthy of notice, we resolved to visit it. This garden is weU adapted for recreation, and is situated on the west bank of the Klawng-San, or the Eegent's Canal. It is new, having been constructed in 1872. It is intersected by several well-formed paths, and is I 2 116 SIAM. beautified and adorned by cocoa-nut, betel, maprang, durian, mongostien, mango, and other trees. In the centre there stands a large suraraex-house, which is neatly fumished. Foi the amusement of visitois there is also a cioquet lawn. There ' is a pond, too, which is not without its attiactions, as within its cleai and peUucid stieams fish aie to be seen swimming to and fro, while on the surface of its wateis ducks of variegated pluraage appeal to enjoy themselves beyond measuie. The natuiahst may find much in these gaidens to amuse and instinct his mind. Thus at inteivals there axe cages in which Pexsian cats, -wild cats, a young elephant, a poicupine, monkeys, and biids are respectively confined. It thus partakes, in some measuie, of the natuie of a zoological gaiden. We- now inspected the cemeteiy, in which the bodies of all Euiopeans and Ameiicans who die at Bangkok axe intened. It is laige, and appaiently veiy darap. It is, howevei, kept in excellent oidei. It contains a great many giaves, a cix- cumstance which led us to suppose that the climate of Siam is not vexy favouiable to Euiopean constitutions. The Siamese theraselves have no cemeteries. This arises from the fact that they dispose of their dead by cremation. On the day preceding our arrival at Bangkok, a ceremony of this nature was performed. It was described in the following terms by the correspondent of the Straits Times : — " On Wednesday the 24th, the ex-Eegent gave a luncheon party at his residence, and afterwards aU the party who had accompanied His ExceUency Sir Andrew Clarke to Bangkok, drove to witness the cremation of one of the wives, who had died about two-and-a-half months ago, of a son of the ex- Eegent. This was a most imposing ceremony. The body was in a coffin shrouded in white linen steeped in flax, placed on a dais beneath a white canopy, the lattei being about 12 feet high, and the whol^ within a pavilion 30 feet in height. A veiy large number of people had assembled to witness the ceremony. The ex-Eegent first advanced with a torch in his right hand and a bouquet of sandal-wood flowers in his left, and set fire to the pyre ; then the deceased's kinsmen, one by SIAM. 117 one, followed the ex-Eegent's example, and applied flre to the coffin from torches of aromatic wood. The body soon consumed, and the ashes were coUected the next day and placed ill a golden urn. The latter was carried to a room in the palace set apart for the reception of such depositories, and placed side by side with those of the late members of the famUy. These are -visited once a year by all the relations of the deceased." Our next step was in the direction of Ayuthia, which city was, at one period, the capital of the kingdom of Siam. It is situated at a distance of sixty or seventy railes from Bangkok, and our journey thither was performed by boat. The craft in question was, in point of size and comfort, a great improve ment upon a Venetian gondola. Our progress, also, was very rapid, as our boat was towed from one end of the journey to the other by an exceedingly fast and weU-equipped steam- launch. As our expedition to Ayuthia was undertaken during the night, for we left Bangkok at eight o'clock in the evening, it was, of course, impossible for us to see the country through which we had occasion to pass. Our boat being well furnished -with cushions, pUlows, and coverlets, we concluded that as the darkness of night utterly precluded the possibUity of our seeing the face of nature, the most fitting alternative to adopt was to retire to rest. This resolution we carried into effect, and at 7 o'clock on the foUowing morning we found ourselves at Ayuthia. Having completed our toilet and partaken of a cup of tea, we first of aU visited the place where, once annually, wUd elephants are captured in the presence of, and for the ser-vice of the king. This walled structure raay not inaptly be compared to a large amphi theatre, in which there is a gaUery especiaUy set apart for the service of members of the royal family. In the interior of this buUding several lofty wooden piUars are raade fast by being driven into the ground. At a certain period of the year, two or raore docile female elephants are, as decoys, allowed by their keepers to enter the jungles. These crea tures, having drawn around them several raaie elephants, im- 118 SIAM. mediately return with their admiring companions of the opposite sex to the waUed encampment or amphitheatre, which has been especiaUy prepared for their capture. The process of taming these beasts is at once entered upon, and is accomplished by starving the aniraals in the first instance, and by subsequently binding them to strong piUars or columns of wood. Sugar-cane, plantains, grass, and other palatable articles of food are now freely administered to them, with the sure and happy result of their becoraing perfectly tarae and resigned to their fate. " Without the aid of the elephant," says Sir John Bowring; " it would scarcely be possible to traverse the woods and jungles of Siam. He makes his way as he goes, crushing -with his trunk aU that resists his progress ; over deep mo rasses or sloughs he drags himself on his knees and beUy. When he has to cross a stream he ascertains the depth by his proboscis, advances slowly, and when he is out of his depth he swims, breathing through his trunk, which is visible when the whole of his body is submersed. He descends into ravines impassable by man, and by the aid of his trunk he ascends steep mountains. His ordinary pace is about four to five miles an hour, and he wUl journey day aud night if properly fed. When weary he strikes the gi-ound with his trunk, making a sound resembling a horn, which announces to his driver that he desires repose. In Siara the howdah is a great roofed basket in which the traveUer, with the aid of his cushions, comfortably ensconces himseU, The motion is dis agreeable at first, but ceases to be so after a little practice." We now gave our attention to the ruined and deserted city of Ayuthia. As the site upon which these ruins stand is now an alraost impenetrable jungle, we were informed that in order to obtain a commanding view of the ruins it would be necessary for us to ascend a lofty obsexvatoiy towei, which, foi astionomical purposes, had been erected in the neighbour hood of Ayuthia by a former king of Siam. In obedience to this advice we ascended the tower in question, and found ourselves in a position to form some idea, owing to the many SIAM. 119 domes oi spires of iiuned wats which came undei oui eyes, of the foimei extent of this now desolate and foisaken city. It was, indeed, a strange leflection to feel that a city, the stieets of which were, at one tirae, txaversed by the feet of thousands of inhabitants, and its marts thronged by merchants from aU the neighbouring countries, is now neither more nor less than a ruinous heap in the raidst of a dense jungle, and the home of various kinds of wUd beasts. According to Siamese annals — records penned by Phra- Chaum-Klau, a forraer King of Siam — Ayuthia, prior to the year of our Lord 1350, was simply the ruin of a place of sorae antiquity, and which then formed a part of the kingdom of Cambodia. There were other Carabodian cities or towns in close proximity to it, but of their exact locahty no satisfactory information can now be obtained. It is, however, generaUy supposed that in or about the year 1300, the inhabitants of these now forgotten cities were greatly scattered and destroyed during a war which took place between the Siamese and the Pequans. Thus the cities being denuded of their respective inhabitants soon feU into decay, and now, as a matter of course, nothing reraains of them but their names. Aynthia is said to have been founded by a powerful Prince named V-Tong-Eama-Thi-Bodi, who succeeded in conquering and adding to his dorainions all Southern Siam and portions of the Malayan Peninsula. During the first six years of his reign he resided in the city of Cha-liang. Find ing, however, that it was a city beset by fevers and other diseases of a maUgnant nature, he resolved to search for a more salubrious locality in which to reside. In due time, that is in 1350, he selected the site of Ayuthia, and there founded his new capital or seat of Government. To this city, so soon as it was founded, people of the Laos tribes, also Cambodians, Buimese, Chinese, and Mohammedans fiom India hastened, with the view of engaging in coraraeicial puisuits. Thus it speedUy acquixed the position and iraportance of a great eraporiura of com merce, and as such became pre-eminent throughout the south 120 SIAM, of Asia, Here fifteen sovereigns of one and the same dynasty successfuUy ruled. They were the descendants of V-Tong-Eama-Thi-Bodi, a sovereign to whom, as the founder of Ayuthia, we have already had occasion to refer. Of these fifteoi Kings, the last was named Mahintra-Thi-Eat, During the reign of this last-mentioned Sovereign, an Eastern Prince caUed Chara-Na-Dischop, and who, at the period to which we are now raore particularly referring, was King of the neigh bouring nation of Pegu, collected a vast and well-equipped army, and besieged Ayuthia, This siege was not of long duration, for at the end of three months the city yielded to the force which had been brought against it, and became the prize of the Peguans, The conquerors did not further harm either the city ox its inhabitants, but caiefuUy piesexved both it and its people. They took, howevei, the King and aU the othei merabeis of the loyal family with thera as trophies to Pegu, and placed the subjugated territory, which was now regarded as a dependency of Pegu, under the kingship or governorship of a personage who was naraed Maha-Thamma- Eaja. This worthy- was no other than the brother-in-law of the now vanquished and captive King of Ayuthia, And though he was in this manner honoured by the conquerors, yet he had to experience the pain of giving his first-born son, who was named Phra-Naret, as a hostage to the Peguans, These events occurred in 1556, Let us now observe that this state of dependence and tribute on the part of Ayuthia did not exceed very many years. The King of Pegu died, and during a season of poli tical excitement which arose in respect to the selection of his son as his successor. Prince Naret, the hostage, together with his family, escaped, and hastened on his return to the land of his fathers. The newly enthroned King of Pegu, on hearing of the escape of Naret, the hostage, gave orders that he was to be pursued, and brought back to Pegu, As Naret, the fugitive, was in the act of crossing the Si-Thong river, he was overtaken by his Peguan pursuers. Having resolved, however, to fight, yea, and if need be to die for his SIAM. 121 liberty, he turned, with his few attendants, against the Peguans, and shot the leader of their party, "who, as the Eoyal Siamese annaUst says, " feU from his elephant dead." After this sanguinary affair, Naret proceeded, without any further adventures, to the city of Ayuthia. The King of Pegu, upon hearing of the discomfiture of the soldiers and the death of their leader, whora he had sent in pursuit of Naret, declared war against Siara. The result of this carapaign was in favour of the Siamese, and thus Siam once more becarae an independent State. On the death of Maha-Thamraa-Eaja, Prince Naret succeeded to the throne, and distinguished himself ere many years had elapsed, as one of the most Ulustrious Sovereigns of which Siara could pre-viously boast. Indeed it is not too much to say that neither before nor since the reign of Naret has Siam been ruled by so renowned a Sovereign as he proved himself to be. In aU his wars with Pegu he was successful, and, at the same time, he laboured diligently to promote all objects calculated, to secure for his country true and inestimable blessings. Dying childless, he was succeeded by his brother, Eka-Tassa-Eat. This Sovereign, however, in consequence of mental derangement, was eventuaUy deposed, and an aged personage, named Phra-Siri-Sin-Wi-Montham, was suramoned by the nobles frora a Buddhist cloister to ascend the throne. This ascetic had been very renowned as a learned and zealous disciple of Buddha. He was not, however, a member of the royal famUy. He was crowned, nevertheless, without any signs of opposition, in 1602. He had been preceded in the regal or kingly office which he now fiUed by nineteen sove reigns, all of whom were members of the sarae imperial house. - He therefore, as a mark of generosity and confidence, not only entrusted the governraent of the country to a descendant of this forraer line of kings, but also the education of his own sons. After a reign of twenty-six years, Phra-Siri-Sin-Wi- Monthara, who had now attained a very great age, breathed his last, and was succeeded by his first-born son, who was then in his seventeenth year. This youth had reigned but 122 SIAM. a very short time when the Eegent, who bore the title of Eajah Suriwong, as marking a relationship with the former royal famUy, caused the second son to be put to death, on the ground that he had either rebelled or had threatened to rebel against his elder brother. The CounseUors of State and other personages, who had become jealous of ¦ the authority of the Eegent, informed the King that the accu sation under which his younger brother had been tried and put to death was utterly groundless, and urged him to effect, U possible, the Eegent's assassination. Of this plot the Eegent was, by his secret emissaries, quickly raade aware, and the King, ere he had tirae to carry out his plans, was dethroned by his aU-powerful minister, and his younger brother, the third son of King Phra-Siri-Sin-Wi-Montham, was, at the age of twelve years, caUed upon to fiU the vacant throne. This youth, however, owing to his frivolities, soon ren dered himself very unpopular in the estimation both of nobles and people. It was resolved, therefore, to depose him, and to place on the throne in his stead one who by a perfect knowledge of aU the duties devolving upon a Sove reign, should be able to extricate the country from that degree of contempt to which, by the misrule of the two preceding Kings, it had been exposed. Their choice even tuaUy fell upon the Eegent, wTio, in 1630, was called upon to assume the sceptre of Siam under the title of Phra-Chan- Pra-Sath-Thong. He was, as we have already intimated, con nected both maternaUy aud paternaUy with the royal dynasty which imraediately preceded that of the priest-king, Phra- Siri-Sin-Wi-Montham. Frora Phra-Chan-Pra-Sath-Thong there eraanated a line of ten kings, of whom sorae reigned at Ayuthia and others at Lo-Pha-Buri Of the royal suc cessors of the founder of this new dynasty, the fourth King, Chan-Narai by name, was the most illustrious. It was during his reign that many European merchants, with the view of more successfuUy prosecuting their caUing, settled at Ayuthia, the then fiourishing capital of the kingdom of Siam. Of SIAM. 123 these strangers, one named Constantine Phaulkon, or Faul- kon, a native of Cephalonia, was destined, owing to his great abihties, to obtain for himself an important position in the land of his adoption. Thus, by his skiU in business, by his practical suggestions in the construction and management of public works, he so greatly pleased King Narai as to receive at the hands of that Sovereign the high sounding title of Chan Phya-Wichayentra-The-Eodi, a title by which is impUed the fact that upon the bearer of it devolves the manageraent and superintendence of the governraent of aU the northern pro vinces of the country. He called the King's attention to the vast importance which would accrue to the country by erect ing, at certain weak points, forts on European principles. This suggestion was so pleasing to His Majesty that he at once deputed Phaulkon to carry out the views which he had so recently expressed. He, therefore, having obtained the permission and sanction of the King, erected first of all a fort near the entrance of a canal which is styled Bang-Luang, and which fort bears the name of Wichayen's Fort to this day. The second fort, which was buUt under the auspices of Phaulkon, was erected in 1675, on the east side of the river, where the -waUed city of Bangkok now stands. It was also at the suggestion of this enterprising Cepha- lonian that King Narai not only restored the ancient city of Lopha-Buri — not only erected there a large palace in accord ance with the style of European architecture — not only built there, and in close contiguity to the palace, an exceUent resi dence and out-buildings for the especial ser-vice of Phaulkon lumself — but also founded a Eomish church. The ruins of these buildings are stiU to be seen, and on the tottering or crumbling walls of the Eomish church various inscriptions can be clearly traced. But the labours of Phaulkon did not end here. In proof of this statement let it be observed that he began to construct a canal with lofty banks to a sacred place called Phra-Bat. He also formed a reservoir on the top of a mountain which is in the immediate vicinity of Phra-Bat, and from which, by means of metal tubes and stop- 1 24 SIAM. cocks, he furnished the palace, which was at the base of the mountain, with copious suppUes of water. It was impossible, however, for a peison — especiaUy a foieignei — to acquiie such powei in a State without pio- voking the jealousy of otheis. As a matter of course, there fore, several of the officers and ministers of State secretly accused Phaulkon of being a rebel. Having on one occasion in-vited the King to visit the Eomish church which had been buUt, the Minister of State and other personages about the court, strongly advised His Majesty not on any account to accept the invitation, on the ground that it was the inten tion of Phaulkon to put him to death. They believed, or pretended to believe, that Phaulkon, who was now the great object of their suspicions and hatred, had placed between the waUs of the church a large quantity of gunpowder, which, at a given signal, was to be ignited by an accompUce in crime. On this grave charge he was put to death by the commands of the King. There is, however, another account given of the assassination of this remarkable raan, and which it raay be weU to record on these pages. It is to the effect that he was perfectly faithful to his King, A rebeUious prince, however, who very well knew that he could not carry into effect his traitorous plans so long as Phaulkon lived, resolved to despatch that person. He, therefore, laid in wait for his intended victira, and, on one occasion, as Phaulkon, quite unconscious of danger, was passing along the road in his sedan chair, the Prince, who was disaffected towards the Governraent, rushed from a place of concealment and slew him. King Narai's death took place not very long after the assassination to which we have just referred. He, however, was not succeeded on the throne of his fathers by the rightful heir. This wUl appear from the following remarks, Nai- Dua, an unacknowledged or iUegitimate son of Narai, by a princess of Yunnan, had been entrusted, with a view to his proper training, to a Minister of State, named Phra-Petcha- Eaja, This youth, on the death of his father. King Narai, slew the legitimate son and rightful heir of the deceased SIAM. 125 sovereign, and proclaimed his instructor, Phyra-Petcha-Eaja, king. This usurper reigned fifteen years, his prirae minister throughout that period of time being no other personage than Nai-Dua, the iUegitimate or unacknowledged son of the late king. On the death of this usurper, Nai-Dua ascended the throne, and reigned at Ayuthia. He was foUo-wed, in proper succession, by two of his sons, and by three of his grandsons, aU of whom kept court at Ayuthia. Of these grandsons of Nai- Dua, the second reigned a very short period. Being greatly harassed and wearied by the affairs of State, he resigned his sceptre and entered the Buddhist priesthood. He was suc ceeded by his younger brother, Chanfa-Eeadwat-Anarak- Montri Sometime during the reign of this 'sovereign, — it was, if we mistake not, in 1765 — Meng-Laung-Aluang-Barah- Gyi, King of Burmah, marched against Ayuthia, with a very large array. The King of Siam was, at the near approach of this invading force, greatly perplexed in con sequence of grave and serious dissensions which prevailed amongst his principal officers. AU the inhabitants of the neighbouring towns, -viUages, and hamlets were summoned to defend the city, a summons which they very readily obeyed. Despite, however, the consummate bravery and skUl which they exhibited, they were, owing to the dissen sions of their rulers, unable to contend successfully with their Burmese foes. Thus, at the end of a two years' siege, Ayuthia feU before her enemies. The city was imraediately set on fire by the conquerors. The King, who was seriously wounded, fled, together with many of his disheartened and terrifled subjects, to a place of safety. He, however, appa rently neglected and forgotten, died ere long of his wounds. His corpse, which was subsequently discovered, was buried with feelings of reverence and respect. The brother of this unfortunate sovereign, the prince, in short, who, prior to this siege, had exchanged the sceptre of royalty for the cowl and beads of a Buddhist monk, was now the greatest personage in Siam, Him, therefore, the Burmese seized, in order that 126 SIAM, he might be conveyed in triumph to Burmah, The invaders now percei-vLng that the country which they had just subju gated could not weU be ruled by thera, inasmuch as it was too far removed from their own native land, resolved to plun der it to the greatest degree. In pursuit, therefore, of this object, they seized aU the principal families who stUl re mained in Ayuthia and its environs, and robbed them of aU they possessed. Several of the inhabitants who refused to give up their property to the rapacious conquerors, were mercilessly beaten, while not a few were kiUed, By the adoption of such severe and harsh measures, the Burmese officers became, in the course of two or three months, pos sessors of most of the wealth of the country. Hoping, how ever, to derive stUl further advantages from the victory which they had obtained, they appointed as ruler over Siam, a Peguan officer of high rank, who was named Phya-Nai-Kong, This personage estabhshed hiraself at a place which is situated at a distance of three miles from Ayuthia, and which is caUed Pho-Sam-Ton, or the " Three Sacred Fig-Trees," The Bur- raese, on withdrawing with their vast amount of plunder and capture from Ayuthia, gave instructions to the newly- appohited ruler to the effect that one of his chief duties was to make more captives, and to secure more wealth, with the view of both captives and wealth being transraitted on subsequent occasions to Burmah, Thus fell Ayuthia in the raonth of March, 1767. The period of time which elapsed from the foundation of this city to its final overthrow by the Burmese, was about 417 yeaxs. During the period in question not less than thirty-three kings made it their seat of government. These sovereigns formed three distinct dynas ties. Thus, for example, the first dynasty had nineteen kings ; the second, three ; and the third, nine. On our journey frora Ayuthia to Bangkok, which took place by day, we had an opportunity of seeing more of the river and the country. The river, though not very broad, is, nevertheless, a uoble stream. The waters thereof vary in point of depth, according to the season of the year. SIAM. 127 Its banks are, in very many parts, adorned with trees and shrubs, and as but very few of these plants are deciduous, they at aU times look verdant and gay. At frequent intervals we passed, en route, very picturesque floating viUages, The houses of which these -viUages consist are in aU respects simUar to the floating houses which, on a. preceding page, we have described. Throughout the whole journey along the river we saw but one brick buUding. This building is one of some pretensions, being a shooting box of the king. On the bosom of the river were Siamese vessels of various kinds, and in the shaUow parts of the stream were standing large herds of water buffaloes. Of these fine-looking aniraals — so vastly superior to the buffaloes of China — the raajority were glossy black. Some of them, however, were of a white, and others of a cream colour. The latter were especially handsome. The country is, indeed, very rich, and yields in due season grains and fruits of various kinds. The crops of rice are generaUy very large. Indeed, so great is the yield of this cereal as to sustain not only the inhabitants of Siam, but those also of other lands. A species of barley, a kind of mUlet, Indian corn, sugar-canes, and pepper, are, too, the pro ducts of this country. Of vegetables there are many kinds grown here. Thus turnips, beans, onions, garlic, cucumbers, lettuces, tomatoes, potatoes, and sweet potatoes are produced in sufficient abundance. Fruits, too, are weU represented, the markets being, in season, supphed by citrons, ground nuts, jack-fxuit, mangoes, pluras, pine-apples, melons, lose- apples, oianges, duxians, mangosteens, custaxd apples, quavas, and bananas. During oux stay in Siam we weie much strack with the great number of pariah dogs which everywhere, but more especiaUy in the towns, beset us at every step. These animals, in their general appearance, greatly resemble jackals. They are not by any means large, and the greater number of them, in regard to colour, may be denominated sorrel Of black and speckled dogs, however, there are certainly not a few. The reason why these animals increase and multiply to 128 SIAM, such a degree is, in a great measure, owing to the fact that the Siamese, who in profession and practice are strict Budd hists, feel that to kUl animals is to be guilty of a most heinous sin. For all Buddhists believe that animals are aiuraated by the spirits of men who during their stay upon earth had been guUty of dreadful crimes, and who as a punishment due to these crimes, are made to reappear upon earth either as beasts, or birds, or reptiles, or insects, or fishes. Again, aU Buddhists entertain an idea that not only do all inferior animals love Ufe quite as rauch as raen do, but also that the pains and terroxs of death axe as gieat in theii esti mation as they are in the opinion of men, and that to put thera to death is, therefore, not only an act of ciuelty, but one which miUtates gieatly against theii own futuie happiness. Thus the stieets of Siamese cities and towns are almost ovenun by dogs. Were it not owing to the fact that many of these pool cieatuies die when young fiom staxvation, and that otheis axe seized and canied off to neighbouiing temples which axe especially set apaxt as lefuges fox thera, the stieets would be entiiely occupied by dogs. During the night these miserable-looking creatures of the canine species, on hearing . the sUghtest degiee of noise, comraence to baik, and, to the great annoyance of the inhabitants, continue to do so foi a consideiable time. Cats, too, in Siamese towns are very numeious. The Siamese appeal to legaid them with favoui, not because they keep the houses fiee from mice, but lathei on account of a supposition which they entertain that they bring, in some mysterious mannei, good foitune to the famUy which nourishes them. Of all cats, howevei, those which aie of a silvei coloui aie, fox the afoiesaid leasons, the most leveied. Again, a black cat with a white spot on the follow ing parts of the body, namely, on each foot, the head, the neck, the back, the bieast, and the taU, that is seven spots in aU, comes next in point of appreciation, A jet-black cat, too, with black claws, leceives a laige amount of admiration at the hands of the inhabitants of the "Land of the White Elephant," SIAM, 129 Creatures wMch, in legaid to numbei, equal, if they do not suipass both dogs and cats, in Siam, aie crows. In form, size, and colour, they very greatly resemble the crows of Great Britain, In point of impudence, however, they excel anytlUng of the kind which we have, as yet, beheld either in the crow, jack-daw, or magpie of western lands. They keep very near to dwelUng-houses, and not unfrequently ven ture into the verandahs by which eastern dweUing-houses are enclosed. Yea, so great is their boldness as to occa sionally induce them to enter dining-rooms and to alight on the tables which are being prepared for the serving up of meals, and to steal what, in the forra of food, is most portable. On the subject of Siamese crows a -writer observes as foUows : — " They become wonderfully intimate with our infant chUdren. Put your creeping baby in your verandah, or in the door-way with a piece of bread and butter, and very hkely, if left alone a few minutes, a crow perched on a roof or tree near by, watching her opportunity, wiU dart down and alight first on the raUing eight or ten feet distant, and then hopping sidewise a foot at a time untU within four feet, wiU venture to take her stand on the floor before the chUd ; and then, if she sees no danger nigh, wiU very gently step up and take the morsel out of the hand of the chUd, or even out of its lips. Indeed our little children who are able to walk, often becorae so intiraate with the crows, that they caU them to thera, and the birds come and take food out of their hands," The sarae author con tinues to say, " our Siamese ciows have anothei habit which we nevei noticed in the western woild ; that is, when one of theii numbei has been killed by a shot they will come togethei in scoies and even hundieds, undei great excitement, jabbering at the top of their voices, as if intent at all hazards to take vengeance on th,e author of the murder of their feUow." But let us now conclude our remarks on the subject of Siamese crows by observing that those which perch by night on the branches of trees which gi-ow within the pre- K 130 SIAM. cincts of Buddhist temples, are, together with the pariah dogs, of great service as scavengers of Siamese towns and viUages. Lizards, too, are creatures, which during our stay in Siam, we saw in large numbers. It may be said of them that they dweU with raan. This will, perhaps, appear evident when we' state that in the various houses or shops which we entered, these harmless little creatures, for the largest of the species is not more than three inches in length, were, apparently, on every side of us. It was scarcely possible for us to gaze during the evening upon the ceUing or the walls of the room in which we were sitting, without seeing several of them ranning to and fro with ease and grace. It was to us a source of arausement to watch the dexterous manner with which they sprang upon flies and other small insects with the view of making them their prey. Considering the large number of insects these creatures destroy they ought to be regarded as very useful inmates of Asiatic dwelUng-houses, as in such abodes flies, mosquitos, and other smaU insects greatly aboimd. But lizards are not the only creatures of that genus which seek a refuge in the dwelUng-houses of the Siamese, for an animal belonging to the same genus as lizards and which is scientifically classed among Saurians, is also found in Siamese dweUing-houses. It is terraed by the Siamese, Took-kaa, and is so named in consequence of the cries which it utters being simUar, in sound, to that compound word. This creature, which in form greatly resembles a crocodUe, is not raore than ten inches long. Its colour may be described as pale-green, studded, at intervals, with hght-red spots. They lay their eggs in the crevices or corners of houses. These eggs, which in colour are light purple, and in size equal to the eggs of a sparrow, they stick on the side of the waU. The food of which they partake consists either of beetles, or flies, or other smaU insects. The noise which they make when giving utterance to their cries is so great as to be heard at a distance of one hundred yards. Indeed, so great SIAM. 131 is it during the night as to render it alraost impossible for one to sleep. Such, at aU events, was our experience on the occa sion of our visit to Siara. But let us now proceed to make a few remarks on the ci-vil and criminal laws of this interesting country. It may safely be said that the Siamese have an excellent code of laws. They are not, however, carried into effect with a very particular regard to the rights of law and equity. The judges are conupt, being ever ready to receive bribes at the hands of those who have occasion to appear in court. The principal criminal courts in the city of Bangkok are those in which the Prefect and Deputy Prefect preside. There are also nisi prius courts attached to the palace, and in which civU causes are heard. They are presided over by the chief ministers of state. Let us not forget to add, that " each prince of rank is vested with judicial powers, and can hold a court at his own palace." The provincial courts are held by the governors of provinces. The judges are, in their investigations, unaided by juries. The manner in which trials are conducted is thus described by one -wxitei : — " The judge places his mat on the flooi in one end of the couit-ioom, upon which he places a thiee-coineied piUow, and then places himseU in a leclining position. The Utigants are ciouching around him, piesenting theii cases, and the whole thing fiequently turns into a general conveisation and biow-beating." Each witness is conducted to the nearest Buddhist temple, where an oath, which xuns vexy much as foUows, is administeied to him : — " I, who have been biought here as a witness in this mattei, do now, in the piesence of this sacxed image of Buddha, declare that I am whoUy unprejudiced against eithei party, and uninfluenced in any way by the opinions oi advice of othexs ; that no prospects of pecuniaiy advantage ox advance ment to office have been held out to rae. I also declaie that I have not received any bribe on this occasion. If what I have now to say be false, oi if in my fuithei aveiments I shaU coloui 01 peivert the trath so as to lead the judgment of otheis astxay, may the Thiee Holy Existences befoxe whom I K 2 132 SIAM. now stand, togethei with the glorious Tewadas* of the twenty- two fiimaments, punish me. If I have not seen, and yet shall say I have seen ; U I shaU say I know that which I do not know, then may I be thus punished. Should innumerable descents of deity happen foi the legeneiation and salvation of mankind, may my eixing o-wn migiatoiy soul be found beyond the pale of theix raexcy. 'Wheievei I go may I be compassed with dangeis and not escape fiom them, whethei rauideiers, robbers, spirits of the earth, woods, or water, or air, or all the divinities who adore Buddha, or frora the gods of the four eleraents, and aU other spirits. May blood flow out of every pore of my skin, that my crime raay be made manifest to the world. May all or any of these e-vils over take me within three days, or may I never stir from the spot on which I now stand ; or raay the lightning cut me in two, so that I may be exposed to the derision of the people ; or if I should be walking abroad, may I be torn in pieces by either of the supematuraUy-endowed Uons or destroyed by poisonous serpents. If on the watex of the livei oi ocean, may supei- natuial crocodiles oi gieat fish devoui me ; oi may the winds and waves oveiwhelra rae, ox may the diead of such e-vUs keep me a piisonei duiing life at horae, estianged fiom every pleasuie. May I be afflicted with intoleiable oppression of my supeiiois, oi may a plague cause my death, Aftei which raay I be piecipitated into hell, theie to go thiough innu- raeiable stages of toituie, amongst which may I be condemned to cany watei ovei the flaming legions in wickei baskets to assuage the heat of Than-Tretonwan, when he enteis the infernal hell of justice, and thereafter may I faU into the lowest pit of heU ; or if these miseries should not ensue, may I after death migrate into the body of a slave, and suffer all the pain and hardship attending the worst state of such a being, during the period measured by the sand of the sea ; or raay I aniraate tbe body of an animal or beast during 500 generations, or become a hermaphrodite 500 times, or endure in the body of a deaf, durab, blind, and houseless beggar * The inhabitants of the lowest celestial world. SIAM. 133 every species of disease during the sarae nuraber of gene rations, and then may I be bom in narok, and theie be ciucified by Phya Yom." Criminals, U not in aU, aie ceitainly in some instances tried by toiture. Stripes, by raeans of rattan canes, are, with the view of extorting a confession, not unfrequently administered to the culprit. Should this method faU in obtaining the desired result, torture of a stUl more painful nature is called into requisition. AU capital offences such as treason, murder, highway robbery, and piracy, are punished -with death by decapitation. Crimes of a less dreadful nature are visited either with penal servitude or iraprisonraent. It raay, perhaps, interest our readers U we record here an account of a Siamese execution, which took place at Bangkok two or thxee yeais ago, and which was witnessed by sevexal Euiopeans. " The day," says the -wiitei, " was fair ; the sky, tUl near the time, cloudless ; the atmosphere comparatively cool, and propitious for sight-seekers. At 9 a.m., the prison keepers brought the victims, having on their persons the usual fetters of prisoners condemned to death. Long before the appointed hour, reeking with perspiration, the assem bling groups advanced towards Wat-Koke, to secure eligible positions, to witness the decapitation of Ay-Nak andAy-Klaum, the dastardly murderers of Captain John Smith, late pilot of this port. It was difificult to secure eUgible positions to observe distinctly the execution of the severe penalty of the law, on these justly-condemned criminals. Our reporters were fortunate in this respect, as they proceeded to the spot long before the accumulation of the surging masses. The condemned were brought to the spot of execution by their rathless keepers about 4 p.m. They were apparently drugged to deaden their sensibUity to the disgrace, mortification, and pain attending theU pubhc exposure and execution, Nak was placed to the west and Klaum to the east, each facing the north. The executioners, with their glistening instru ments of death in hand, began their prostrations to their victims and their deity, to avert from them the discredit of 134 SLUM, the bloody act the majesty of the laws of the kingdom re quired them to perform. They then mechanicaUy went through the usual Siamese genuflexions and dance, to aid the precision, force, and exact effect of their intended death blow. The first blow severed the caput and left the quivering, bleeding, truncated body of Ay-Nak, a headless form. Soon the nerves ceased their vitality, and the head and decapitated body were motionless and hfeless. Thus feU the daring murderer of Captain John Smith, The other executioner bowed and danced alternately, approaching to and receding from the bound servant, the perfidious murderer of the master who had fed and clothed him. It required three swings of the gUstening steel to make the -victim Ay-Klaum pay the severe penalty of his daring temerity. His head, too, after some revolting butchery, roUed from its quivering, bleeding body. Some seventy Siamese priests were engaged in reUgious ceremonies to secure for the criminals, previous to their execution, merit to serve in their future states of transmigration," The festivals or holidays which the Siamese observe throughout the course of each year are not so numerous as are those which are commeraorated by the Chinese. They may be enuraerated as foUows : — The swinging f^tes, or Teep- Tuig-Cha, as they are caUed, which take place on the fifth and seventh days of January. The Chinese New-year, which is generaUy celebrated either in the end of January oi in the beginning of Febiuaiy. The pilgiiraages to Piabat, which take place in Febiuaiy, It is hexe that there is an iraaginaiy foot-piint of Buddha; and in oidei to render horaage to this vain delusion, thousands of persons in aU ranks and conditions of Ufe go on pUgrimages to Prabat, This relic of a past age is said to have been discovered by a personage named Pra-Chow-Song-Tam, who, during a period of twenty-six years — that is, from a,d, 1603 to a,d, 1628 — was King of Siam, During the month of March, the Siamese, both old and young, are fuUy occupied in playing games with kites. As in the centre of each kite there are SIAM, 135 placed a few copper wires or strings, on the principle of an .lEolian harp, the very air resounds with the strains which emanate from the kites in question. The shouts of joy, too, which arise from the vast concourse of citizens, who are en gaged iu this singular pastime, make the very welkin ring. It is in March, also, that the Siamese celebrate their new year's festivities. For three days at this annually-xecuiiing period there is, of couise, an entiie suspension of business, and pleasuie becomes the object which aU then puisue. On the tenth, eleventh, and tweUth days of ApiU, a festival teimed Song-kian is obseived. In the eaily pait of May anothei ceiemony caUed Wan-Tam-Tak, and which is in honoux of the commencement of seed-time, takes place. The leading peisonage on this occasion is the chief ministei of the agii- cultuxal depaitment. It is now that the faUow lands are made ready by the oidinaiy opeiations of ploughing and hal lowing foi the so-wing and planting of lice. The ceiemony called Wan-Tam-Tak is not, howevei, the only festival which occupies the attention of the Siamese in May. Thus on the tenth, eleventh, and tweUth days of this raonth a fete in honour of the birth of Buddha is duly observed and honoured by this people. The beginning and ending of the Buddhist Lent, too, are observed as holidays. This season of fasting begins on the 10th of July and ends on the Oth of October. Let us now mention that a festival, which is termed Sat, is celebrated on the 21st of September. The floating Ulumina tions, which take place on the fifth, sixth, and seventh days of October, and again on the third, fourth, and fifth days of November, are festivals attended with much joy. The Siamese, Uke the people of all Asiatic, and indeed European nations, are fond of gambling. The great lottery estabUshment of Bangkok is, perhaps, the institution, which above aU others of the kind, deserves, in the first instance, our attention. It is caUed Hui, and was introduced into Siam frora China, thirty or forty years ago. The garae may be described as follows : Each of the thirty-four letters of the Siamese alphabet is written or engraved on a small piece 136 SIAM. of wood. On the opposite side of each of these small pieces of wood is written the corresponding Chinese character or letter, in order that all Chinese who reside at Bangkok may be enabled, if they feel disposed, to join in the game. Of these sraaU pieces of wood, one is each raorning chosen by the raaster of the gambling establishment, and deposited in a bag, or purse. This bag being hermeticaUy sealed, is now suspended from a naU or beam in the public room of the gambling establishment. At a certain hour each person who is interested in the game enters this room and presents his papers to the secretary, in which he sets forth that he is prepared to stake a certain sum of money that the letter contained in the hermeticaUy sealed bag is such and such a letter. When each person has presented his paper and stake to the secretary, the bag is opened, and the name or names of the winners are declared. The sura paid to each winner varies, of course, according to the amount which he staked. Thus, for exaraple, should he have staked one tical, he receives thirty fold of the amount which he staked. Men of means not unfrequently stake twenty or thirty, or forty or fifty ticals upon one letter. And should the letter attached to a stake of fifty ticals correspond with the letter taken from the bag at the lottery, the owner of that letter receives thirty fold that amount. This system of gambUng, however, is not the only one which is practised by the Siamese. This wUl appear when we say that there are not less than seven or eight other modes of gambling, which are respectively termed in the Siamese language, poh, tooa, pai, ipong, dooat, and sakaa. Of these various garaes, the first is played with a smaU copper box. The dice having been put into this box, are well shaken and then exposed to view. The second of these games is played with small sea sheUs, and the third with smaU cards. All gambling estabUshments are Ucensed by the govemment, and are under the supervision and control of a gambUng farraer, who for the privileges which he enjoys, pays annuaUy to the authorities a sum of money. Indeed, the revenue which the Imperial exchequer derives from such SIAM. 137 iniquitous institutions is very considerable. We apply the term iniquitous to such establishments with strict justice on our side, inasmuch as they are the rain annuaUy of hundreds of citizens. There are, however, certain seasons of the year when the people are aUo-wed to gamble when and where they like to do so, withput any risk of their being prosecuted by the gambling farmer. This privUege is exercised by the people during the festivals, which are respectively termed the Chinese new year, the Siamese new year, and Songkran. Of the sad effects of gambling one writer has furnished the fol lowing melancholy instances : — -" A wife of one of our most frugal, industrious, and faithful servants became bewitched -with the pai garabling. Neither iraportunlty, nor authority, nor punishraent frora her husband would stop her frora spend ing nearly aU her tirae in that porch of heU, generaUy losing, but winning just often enough to keep up the hope of coraing out affluent at last. Thus she waxed more and more despe rate, utterly neglecting her Uttle children, pawning every thing alraost on which she could lay her hands ; and when her own goods and her husband's faUed, borrowing of her neigh bours, and thus invol-ving hira in debts which must be paid even though the wife and children and husband should aU be pawned as slaves in Ueu of thera. The husband felt that he must divorce her for this reason, and did so. She took the babe for her share, and he the three elder chUdren. She went to her faraUy connections among the Peguans, and manied another man, and he who had been her husband took another wffe, and thus they are living." The same writer further states that " a wife on the very verge of oomnutting suicide, was under God rescued by one of the missionary ladies, by kind words and a judiciously helping hand. She now seems to have been entirely broken of the love of gambUng, and makes agaia a faithful wife and provident mother." The government of Siam is an absolute monarchy. The king, however, though supreme, and though styled " Lord of 138 SUM. Life" and proprietor of all, is greatly influenced by the princes and nobles. It was generally supposed that Siam was ruled by two soveieigns, the one being styled the fiist and the othei the second Kuig. At the time of oui visit to Siara, howevei, the fiist King being deteirained to have no rival sovereign within his dorainions, no longer regarded the second King as a sovereign, but as a prince. This proceeding on the part of the first King greatly exasperated the second King, and hostiUties — each King ha-ving a sraaU army — were for several days impending. The second King, at length, discovering that he could not contend successfuUy with his raore powerful corapetitor, and thinking that his Ufe was ia danger, fled for safety to the British Consulate. There he reraained for several days. In due tirae, however, his Excel lency Sir Andrew Clarke, who was then Governor of the Straits Settleraents, and Admiral Eyder arrived at Bangkok for the purpose of arranging amicably, if possible, a dispute which threatened to be very serious. The arrival at Siam, and reception on the part of the King of the aforesaid Enghsh magnates, was reported as follows by the special correspondent of the Straits Times : — " On the 20th (Saturday) the bar was crossed and the Governor was raet by an influential deputation, one of which was the Siaraese noble who had but lately returned from an embassy to the Viceroy of India. The deputation came on the part of the first King to welcorae Sir Andrew to His Majesty's dorainions. His Siaraese Majesty had sent his own royal yacht to convey the party up the river, the banks of which were crowded by native sightseers. On reachuig the city the ' VigUant ' brought to off the British Con sulate, and Siamese nobles and Em-opeans, &c., came on board to pay their respects to his ExceUency and Admiral Eyder. " The 21st was Sunday, and was passed quietly, and on Monday nothing particular occurred. " On Tuesday his Excellency and party visited some of the principal wats, or teraples, and afterwards proceeded to SIAM. 139 His Majesty's picnic boat, to which they had been invited by the first King to witness a four-oared race between ' Land and Watex.' The foUowing wexe the xespective ciews : — Land. Water. I. Mr. French, 1, Sub-Lt. Abbot, E,N, 2. Capt, Whitler,10th Eeg, 2, Mr, Jones, E.N. 3. Mr. P. Morrison, 3, Sub-Lt. Creagh, E.N, 4, Ml-, F, Clark, 4. Sub-Lt, Omraaney, E,N, Lieut, Watson, sitter, Lt, Bahlstorm, E,N,, sitter. " After a closely contested race. Water won by half a length, and rowing up to the side of the King's boat. His Majesty presented with his own hand to each of the crew of the winning boat a very handsome gold box, making a very neat speech congratulating the victors on their success, and consohng the vanquished by telling them that in contests of the kind only one side could win, and wishing them better luck next time, " On Thursday the 25th, in the afternoon, his ExceUency Sir Andrew Clarke, with Admiral Eyder and several others, proceeded to the residence of the first King, where a palace had been especiaUy prepared for them. It was buUt some time ago for one of the late King's brothers, but was never used, and Sir Andrew Clarke had tbe privUege of being the first European who had ever passed the night inside the palace waUs, A suite of rooms had been handsomely furnished with European furniture, a bUliard table had been brought from another palace and put up for the occasion, and the ten bed-rooms set apart for His Majesty's guests were supphed with every requisite, toUette, fittings, &c., in the most com plete style. At 7,30 p,m, his ExceUency the Governor, Admiral Eyder, Hon. Major McNair, Captain Whitler, Lieu tenant Warton, Dr. EandeU, Captain Smith, E.N., and several other officers of the squadron had the honour of an invitation to dine privately with His Majesty. The company at table comprised the royal brothers, the Kromatah, the King's 140 SIAM. Private Secretary, &c. His Majesty retired at 11 P.M., and on ¦ Sir Andrew Clarke and party returning to their palace they found His Majesty had provided a theatrical entertain ment in the courtyard, which was brUUantly lit with torches. It was a novel sight, something after the manner of a Chinese play, but more amusing, and afforded considerable Uiterest to the spectators. " The next day (Friday 25th) at 10.30 a.m., Sir Andrew Clarke and Adrairal Eyder, with all the officers who had ac companied the mission, had the honour of a forraal audience of His Majesty the first King. ArtiUery salutes were fired for the Governor and Adrairal, and the party were received in the handsorae audience charaber, a fine haU, some 200 feet in length. AU the Siamese court were present in their full dress of cloth of gold. After a few forraal corapliraents. His Majesty retired, and the Governor's party drove to caU on the second King at his palace, and were received with the greatest cordiality, the second King exhibiting to them his garden in the European style, and also his laboratory, the King taking great deUght in chemistry. After returning, the party went to the museura, a fine buUding, newly erected in the palace grounds, containing speciraens of Siamese workmanship in gold and silver, the royal regalia, stuffed animals and birds, maps of the Siamese dominions, which are in course of pre paration, and a weU selected European library, with European newspapers, &c,, which are free to aU to read. In the after noon his ExceUency visited the interior of the first King's private palace, a privUege rarely accorded to Europeans, and thence to the landing stage, where His Majesty had arranged to meet the Governor and take him in his picnic boat on a short trip up the river, stearaing about five mUes, seeing on each side a large quantity of teak and stores of rice detained on account of the late disturbance and waiting shipraent. On returning to the landing stage, His Majesty took a very- cordial fareweU of Sir Andrew Clarke and Admiral Eyder, thanking his Excellency for his visit to Siam, The party then went on board the ' Vigilant ' and dropped down the siam. 141 river the same night, and the next raorning at daylight left for Singapore in H.M.S. ' Charybdis.' " The grave political question to which we have just adverted was settled in favour of the first King, who in due tirae issued for the inforraation of his subjects the following manifesto : — " GOVEENMENT MANIFESTO. " {Translation.) "Somdech Phra Paramindr Maha Chulalongkorn Phra Chula Chom Klow Chow Yuhua, &c., &c., &c.. King of Siam. " Out of our great love for and implicit confidence in our royal cousin, Krora Phra EajawangPawar Sthan Mongol, and ¦mth a -view to consolidate more firmly the intemal peace and tranquilhty of our country and of our people, "Do hereby declare and proclaim to aU, that we hold intact and in-violate the solemn deed and covenant by which we, of our royal wUl and pleasure, on the llth day of the waxing of the raoon on the Ist raonth, year of the Marong, 10th of the decade, civU era, 1230 [25th day of Noveraber, 1868], instaUed our said royal cousin as Krom Phra Eaja- wang Pawar Sthan Mongol [second King], with aU the . honours, dignities, revenues, rights, authorities, and pre rogatives, according to the then well known and long esta blished precedents thereto attaching. " And that we do further comraand all the members of our famUy, ministers, counciUors, nobles, and peoples to obey and respect this decree sacredly and carefuUy. " And we do further declare and define, that for the due security and protection of our weU beloved and trusted cousin's honour and dignity, we authorise him to enrol, retain, and equip for service, armed with muskets or sraall arms, a force not exceeding two hundred men, which, unless at times when we may require their aid under our sign manual, shall be limited to the residence, wherever that may be, of our said cousin. 142 siam. "And that as upon us alone devolves the grave and serious cares and responsibUities of aU measures for the internal peace, as weU as for the external defence of our kingdom, so all ships, arras, and munitions of war within our kingdom can be alone held or owned under our sole authority or hcence. " And we do further declare, that should we hereafter — as we much desire — place the finances of our kingdom on a more secure and firmer basis, so as to Ughten the bur dens of our people and prevent the waste of their resources, we wiU, when redistributing our rights and revenues, guard and deal as we would with our own, with the rights and. revenues of our said cousin. " Who has further, in acknowledgement of this our wiU and pleasure, renewed his solemn pledge and assurance of loyalty and devotion to our authority and person. " In witness of which, and as parties to these presents, we order and direct our relations and counciUors to attach their seals and signatures. " Given on the 5th day of the waning of the 3rd month, year the Cho, 6th of the decade, civU era 1236 [25th day of February, 1875] and 7th year of our reign." The Advertiser thus comments on the proclamation : — " It is only necessary to remark further, that after this raagnanimous manifesto, that does so much credit to the noble purpose of His Majesty, the royal cousin on the day following took his leave of his asylum at Her Britannic Majesty's Consulate - General, and returned to his own palace. "We are still of opinion that neither His Majesty the Suprerae King nor the royal cousin meditated evil towards each other. The royal cousin we believe is a Prince of too much good nature, discretion, and invaluable talents to have designedly placed himself in a position seeraingly adverse to his loyalty and patriotism. The royal cousin, we believe, will never allow the occurrence of a similarly doubtful position, and we are sure neither His Majesty nor the Council SIAM. 143 wUl desire to detect and brand injudicious advisers if such had existence. "As this affaix has been so amicably adjusted, it is to be hoped aU wiU ' let bygones be bygones,' and henceforth with one heart and one wiU all wUl zealously and untiringly strive to promote the best good of the truly excellent King of Siam and this enterprising and prolific kingdom. "The recent event,' its judicious araicable adjustment, without the shedding of blood, and without detriment to the national interests, may be regarded as an important but hazardous crisis, which has been safely passed, has been rendered harmless, and has been so utilized as to form a part of the nation's experience, which wiU henceforth render its true statesmen -wiser, better, more loyal, and more patriotic men." But let us now close our remarks on this subject by obser-ving that the King's private secretary — a man of very great inteUigence, and who speaks the English language fluently— told us that aU foreigners who supposed that Siara was ruled by two Kings conjointly, laboured under a very great mistake. He further said that the personage who was regarded by foreigners as the second King of Siam was simply the generahssimo of the Siamese army. The established religion of Siam is, as we have already intimated, the religion of Buddha. The reigning Sovereign is a devoted foUower of this faith. He has given ample proof of this by his earnest endeavours to uphold the religion of his royal ancestors. The revenues of the country are, in a great measure, spent in erecting and endowing temples. It is said that throughout the kingdom there are not less than 35,000 Buddhist priests. Amongst these bonzes, it is not unusual to find Princes of the blood royal. Indeed, at the time of our visit to Siam, His Eoyal Highness Prince Chaufa Mong-kut was a raeraber of this sacred order. This royal personage entered the priesthood -when the reigning King was crowned. Being a man of good abilities and fond of learning, he now devotes himself not only to the study of religious writings. 144 SIAM. but to hterature in general. He is high priest of the temple which is caUed Poworoniwet. Moreover, he is president of the board for examining priests and students in Pali. Persons cannot be admitted into the full order of the Buddhist reUgion untU they have attained the age of twenty years. It is also incumbent upon aU persons who are candi dates for the priesthood to have previously served in the capacity of nanes. The term nane in the Siamese language is we suppose equivalent to the term deacon in the EngUsh tongue. The nane is required to observe most scrupulously ten rules or obligations, whUe upon the fuU piiest 227 lules are imposed. The ceremonies which are observed when Princes are ad mitted into the sacred order caUed nane, are of an imposing nature. A ceremony of this kind is thus described by a con tributor to the Siamese Repository : — " On the 14th of July last two sons of His Majesty the late King, and younger brothers of His Majesty the now Suprerae King of Siam, also one of the sons of His Majesty the late Second King, were pompously inducted into the pre liminary grade of the Siamese priesthood. The Princes, sons of His Majesty the late Supreme King, now nanes, are His Eoyal Highness Soradetch Chaufa Chaturontorasrai, and His Eoyal Highness Phraong Unakarn. These two Princes are the twenty-eighth and twenty-ninth children of His Majesty the late First King, who up to January 1st, 1868, was the father of eighty-one, born of thirty-four^mothers. No state ment has transpired of the number of childless wives of the said Sovereign. " The son of the late Second King was His Eoyal High ness Prince Phra Ong Aroon. The late Second King was the father of sixty-three children by thirty-one raothers. In this instance also the number of chUdless wives has not been set forth. " The public ceremonies connected with the induction of the above-named Princes into the naneship was synoptically as foUows. July 14th, 10 a.m. SIAM. 145 " The procession eraerged from the First King's palace, passed into the Krung Charoen Eoad, made the inner circuit of the city waUs, and returned to Wat P'rakew and the palace. " Siamese, Chinese, and European airs, made by the iastruments of each of these nationaUties, enUvened the procession on its march. " The procession was composed of fifty Siamese noblemen, each wearing a closely fitting white spiral hat. These repre sented Thewadas, 350 men bearing a large variety of fiags, about 400 soldiers. His Majesty the First Kuig's band of European instrumental music, Ukewise the European instru mental rausic band of His Grace the Eegent, known to the Siamese as the Praprasat, 200 swordsmen and spearmen ; then compaiues each dressed so as to represent the different nationaUties, to -wit, European, Malay, Hindoo, Cochin- Chinese, Burmese, and others. Seven of the largest sized elephants canied the yeUow cloth and wearing apparel for the priests, three brown elephants carried the priests' rice- pots, two carriages and one large buggy carried the candles. " The procession was very long, and the spectators aU along the Une of march were very dense. " The soldiers wore shoes and stockings, and appeared in better dress than usual." On our return to Bangkok from the interior of Siam we learned that the steamboat by which it was our intention to proceed to Singapore, had left the port. The commander of the vessel in question, however, had been so kind and cour teous as to leave a message to the effect that he would wait for us at the mouth of the Eiver Meinam untU six o'clock on the foUowing morning. As we did not reach Bangkok untU six in the evening, and as we had to puU a distance of thUty mUes against a strong tide, there was apparently little or no hope of our reaching the steamboat at the time appointed. At eight o'clock p,m, we embarked on this enterprise, and — remaimng awake aU night for the purpose of encouraging our boatmen — we were so fortunate as to reach the mouth of the L 146 SIAM. river at a quarter to six on the foUowing morning. At six o'clock our vessel, the steam-ship " Bangkok," the tide behig full, crossed the bar of the river, and proceeded on her voyage to Singapore. The great exertions which by day and night we had undergone during our sojourn in Siara had greatly weakened us, and the result was that throughout the voyage down the Gulf of Siam to Singapore we were very unweU. On our arrival, however, at the last-mentioned place, we were . once more kindly received and hospitably entertained by Captain Caldbeck, and our health was consequently soon restored. 147 Chapter VI. PENANG AND PEOVINCE WELLESLEY. Arrival at Penang — Meaning of the name Penang — Harbour of Penang — Mountain Eange — Fertile Plains— Products of Penang — Forests— Groves of Areca Palms — Geological Formation of Penang — City of Georgetown — Inhabitants of Penang— Enghsh Church — Monument in honour of the Marquis of Cornwallis — Monument in honour of Francis Light, Esq. — Brief Account of Francis Light, Esq., and of the Island of Penang — Eoman CathoUc Church — Mohammedan Mosque — Ceme tery — Eoads — ViUas in which Europeans Eeside — Mountain Eesidences — Wayside Inn — Water-mUl — SmaU Hindoo Temple — WaterfaU — Baths — Province WeUesley — Cocoa-nut Plantations — Cattle— Steam Eice- miU — Eiver and Ford — Sugar-cane Plantations — Indigo Lands — ^Brief Account of Province WeUesley. OuK voyage from the island of Singapore to that of Penang was very pleasant and agreeable, the Straits of Malacca, as is ahnost invariably the case, being as smooth as a mUl-pond. The island of Penang, which contains an area of 160 square mUes, derives its name from the Malay term penang, which signifies an areca-nut. It is asserted by sorae authorities that the narae is so applied in consequence of the great nura ber of areca-palms which are gxown on the island, and by others it is maintained that the name is given in consequence of the island resembUng, in forra, an areca-nut. The name of Prince of Wales Island is also applied to it. It is situated near to the northern entrance of the Straits of Ma lacca, and in very close proximity to the Malayan Peninsula. It Ues between latitude 5° 14' to 5° 29', longitude 100° 25', and is fifteen mUes in length, and twelve mUes in breadth. The harbour is so deep as to perrait very large ships to anchor at no great distance from the beach. This basin, if we may so term it, is forraed by the Strait which separates Penang from the Quedah coast, and it is so large as to afford a safe L 2 148 PENANG AND PROVINCE WELLESLEY. anchorage to a veiy laxge fieet. Stietching in a direction fiom north-east to south-west theie is a pictuiesque mountain range, having an elevation of 2,500 feet above the level of the sea. At the foot of this mountain lange thexe axe, on eveiy side, plains which are so fertUe as to " laugh and sing" with pioducts, such as coffee, sugai, rice, nutmegs, cloves, peppex, cotton, tobacco, betel-nuts, and vegetables and fiuits of vaxious kinds. Thexe axe, too, at inteivals, not only foiests of fine tiees, but groves also of aieca palms, and vineyaxds in which the betel--vine is extensively planted, the natives having a gxeat paitiality fox the leaf, Vineyaxds of this kind greatly resemble fields of hops. And here we may observe that no one can gaze upon the luxuriant vegetation with which this island is covered with out feeling that it is, in itself, a magnificent monument of the successful results of British enterprise. For was not this island, ere it became a dependency of the British Crown, a dense and noxious jungle ? The jungle in question has long since disappeared, and highly-cultivated plains occupy its place. As to the geological formation of Penang we may safely affirm that the mountains are formed of granite. Mica and quartz are also found, the former in large and the latter in small quantities. The subsoU of the hUls consists in some places of decomposed rock varying from one to eight feet in depth; the vaUey is of aUuvial formation, formed by the detritus of the mountain, which has been accumulating for ages. Dr. Ward supposes that the sea at some reraote period covered these parts and washed the base of the raountains ; and this opinion is borne out by the a.ppearance of the oppo site shore, where Captain Low discovered for some miles inland evidences of the gradual retirement of the ocean, in the ridges which at intervals run paraUel with the coast. The only mineral known to exist is tin, and it is said the raountains are rich in this ore, though no mines have been worked. The city ui Georgetown, which is the capital, is built on PENANG AND PROVINCE WELLESLEY, 149 the eastern extremity of the island. It is a city of great activity and industry, but utterly devoid of all architectural beauty. In the native part of the town, the Chinese hongs or residences of Chinese merchants are, in point of appearance, by far the most imposing. The doors of these hongs are uot only carved and gUded, but, in some instances, they are further adomed by moral sentences which are carved thereon in letters of gold. Its citizens are, respectively, Malays, Chinese, Buttas, Bengalese, ChuUahs, Siamese, Burraese, and Europeans, In point of enterprise and industry the Europeans and Chinese are far in advance of the Malays and others to whom we have just refened. Indeed, they appear to have the com merce and trade of the island in their own hands. In our rambles through the city of Georgetown, the first institution which we -visited was the English church. It is, in point of architecture, of the ItaUan style, and it stands in the centre of a large and weU-kept compound. In the porch of the church there is erected a marble monument in honour of the Most Noble Marquis CornwaUis, who was twice Vice roy of India, This monument consists of a weeping female figure in statuary of granite, resembUng Britannia, and which image is represented as directing the attention of a chUd to a bust of the Marquis of CornwalUs. On the waUs of the church are arranged mural tablets in honour of certain worthies of Penang, In the compound, and at no great dis tance from the grand entrance of the church, there stands a small domed tower. In this structure there is placed a monument to perpetuate the meraory of Francis Light, Esquire, who was the first superintendent or governor of Penang. Now, as Penang owes very much of its prosperity to the statesmanlike abUity and indefatigable labours of Governor Light, we may paase for a moment to give a very brief account of him. Towards the end of the last century, the East India Company were most anxious to obtain a port in the Straits of Malacca, Acheen was the place upon 150 PENANG AND PROVINCE WELLESLEY. which, in the first instance, they fixed their attention. FaU ing, however, to obtain the desired object, they, in the next instance, made inquUies respecting Penang. Captain Light, who, in this transaction, represented the East India Company was, at length, in a position to inforra thera that the King of Quedah was prepared to place the island of Penang under their jurisdiction on a payraent on their part of six thousand Spanish doUars per annum. This proposal having been ac cepted by the East India Company, Captain Light was, in due time, called upon to fiU the important office of superin tendent of the new settlement. The first acts of this enter prising officer were to feU the trees of which the forests were formed, to apportion lands, to construct roads, of which there are many exceUent ones in the colony, and to found a sea port. These almost Herculean labours having been accom pUshed, the Uttle settlement speedUy attained a most pros perous state. In 1791, the King of Quedah being much struck with the highly prosperous condition which his possession, the neighbouring island of Penang, had reached under British rule, resolved to deraand at the hands of the East India Com pany an increase of rent. This demand was no sooner made than it was rejected. The latter fact so greatly in-i tated the sovereign of Quedah that he immediately determined to obtain, by force of arms, a corapUance with his wishes. He, there fore, with this object in view, assembled his forces on the opposite shore. The purposes, however, of His Majesty of Quedah were aU frustrated by the timely and active inter position of Captain Light, who, without any loss of time, sent to Bengal for troops. The myriads of Quedah fied before these weU-disciplined troops as chaff is driven by the wind, and their king soon discovering that aU his endeavours were of no avaU, gladly entered into a treaty with Captain Light, This distinguished officer after filUng his position with honour to his country and credit to hiraseU, died in the year 1794, We next visited the Eoman CathoUc church, which is styled the Church of the Assumption, In regard to archi- PENANG AND PROVINCE WELLESLEY, 151 tectural design it is ItaUan, The high altar is formed of white marble. There are also two side altars, and above each of which is placed an image in statuary of marble. We were at a loss to ascertain the names of the saints who are respectively represented by these exquisitely -sculptured images. Above the high altar there is a neat, but very smaU stained glass -window. The Moham mo dan raosque which we, in the next instance, -visited is a very neat and clean edifice. It is in the forra of a square. At each corner of this structure there stands a smaU tower, with a pepper-pot top. In very close proximity to the mosque there is a lavatory, in the waters of which aU votaries, ere they enter the mosque to pray, wash their hands and feet. The EngUsh ceraetery, to which we dU-ected our steps, is large and weU kept. It contains many raassive tombs. In not a few of these graves rest the remains of men who, in theU day, served weU their Sovereign and country. Ha-ving at length seen Georgetown and almost aU its insti tutions, we proceeded to the waterfaU. The weU-macadaraised road which conducted us thither stretches through a beautiful part of the island. It is, in some instances, fringed with cocoa-nut trees. At frequent intervals, too, there stand, at short distances from its boundaries, neat -viUas in which Em-opeans reside. Each of these viUas stands within its own grounds, which are so weU kept as to elicit the admiration of aU traveUers who pass that way. And here we may digress to observe that the viUas to which we are now referring are not the only structures of the kind of which the island can boast. On the summit of the picturesque mountain range, to which, on a preceding page we have refened, there are similar abodes. The Europeans who occupy these houses enjoy great advantages. For on these mountains the medium temperature of the year is 70°, the average annual range of thermometer about 10°. Being exposed at all times to refreshing breezes the heat in the middle of the day, in the hottest weather, is never oppressive, and from the purity and bracing character 152 PENANG AND PROVINCE WELLESLEY. of the air, together with the beauty of the scenery, it offers a most agreeable resort for convalescents. Moreover, it is an easy matter for the European residents of Penang to reach their mountain homes. The bridle path by which the summit is approached is a very good one ; and the ponies, on the backs of which the ascent is invariably made, are so strong as to be capable of carrying, with com parative ease, the heaviest of raen. But to retum to the subject which is more iramediately before us. On our arrival at a smaU inn which is situated at a dis tance of half a raile frora the waterfall, we alighted from our gharry in order that the horse might receive and enjoy the provender and rest which he had so weU earned. As we walked towards the cascade we felt the heat to be very great, and seeing a water-mUl nigh at hand, we naturaUy entered it in order to seek for a Uttle tirae shelter from the rays of a tropical sun. We were kindly received by the miUers — Chinese — who not only pro-vided us with couches upon which to recline, but, at the sarae time, presented us with cups of tea, Eice was the grain which these raen, at the time of our visit to the miU, were grinding. Judging frora the raany rat- traps which we saw upon the floor, we naturaUy concluded that rats were about the place in large nurabers. Of the truth of this supposition we presently had the most satis factory proof afforded us, inasmuch as several of these vermin came frora their holes in search of food. As there were several grains of rice on the floor of the miU, no hopes could, of course, be entertained that the rats would enter the traps to partake of the tit bits with which those engines of death were baited. It was now time for the miUers to hasten to a neighbouring grain market, and on finding that we had not quite recovered from the effects of our exposure to the sun, they left the establishment in our hands, saying that should we leave the mill ere they had returned, they would feel obliged by our closing the door. To this proposition we assented gladly, and, on withdrawing from the mill, fulfilled PENANG AND PEOVINCE WELLESLEY, 153 our promise. On reaching the base of the hill, at the very point where its side is washed by the waters of the casc'ade, -\\e observed a very smaU and insignificant Hindoo teraple. This shrine was in charge of a tall muscular Hindoo, who earnestly sought alms at our hands, saying that he gxeatly lacked the common necessaries of life. Climbing up the hill at a short distance beyond this temple, we suddenly came in sight of the waterfall. It is, we think, 20 or 30 feet in width, and faUs with a great force from a height of 160 feet. It is a majestic column of water, and imposing to behold, and its pure and refreshing streams are utUized by the inhabitants of the island. Thus, by means of iron pipes, abundant supplies of this mountain torrent are conveyed to Georgetown and its envh-ons. On our return to the inn in order to rejoin our gharry we were in-vited to indulge in a cold-water bath. We however, declined to avaU ourselves of such an indulgence, as we were at the time over-heated by the effects of the sun. Eeturning to Georgetown, we immediately embarked in a smaU steam launch for Pro-vince WeUesley, This pos session of the British Crown, which is situated on the western coast of the Malayan peninsula, comprises a superficial aiea of 140 squaie miles, is 35 railes in length, and 4 in width. It was ceded to the British in 1802 by the Kiag of Quedah foi a pecuniaiy consideiation. On landing — having inspected the court-house and hospital — we at once hired a ghaiiy and pioceeded with all haste inland in oider to acquire some knowledge of the general appearance of the country. The roads which we had occasion to traverse cannot be surpassed in point of exceUency by roads in any other part of the world. They run, in some instances, through cocoa-nut plantations. As the cocoa-nut trees are planted in rows, the plantations present, in consequence, a very neat appearance. In many of these plantations there are houses in which we suppose the respective proprietors of the estates reside. Around several of these dweUings cattle were grazing. In the course of our journey we also passed three or four droves of oxen 154 PENANG AND PROVINCE WELI,ESLEY. which were being driven, as it appeared to us, to some neigh bouring cattle-market. In due tirae we arrived at Mr. Brown's steara rice-mUl, an inspection of which very greatly pleased us. At a short distance beyond this miU we reached the banks of a river over which, by means of ferry-boats, many Malays and Chinese were passing. This river is very meandering in its course, and sorae of its branches are so cireuraferential as to resemble very smaU lakes. Having traversed the width of this possession of the British Crown, we returned to the place from which we had previously started, and having changed horses, we drove in another direction with the view of leaming m,ore in regard to the general culture and pro ducts of the colony. On this our second drive we passed several sugar-cane plantations, and lands also which were standing, more or less, thick with crops of indigo. " Province WeUesley," says Newbold, " presents gently undulating superficies, sloping graduaUy to the sea, -with a few nanow strips of sandy soU, weU adapted for the cultiva tion of the cocoa-nut, from which protrude a few hills of gxanite. The general appearance of the province in 1822 is thus described by Finlayson, who visited it about that period : — ' The country here, to the distance of seven or eight mUes from the sea, is low, flat, and swampy, covered for the most part with almost impenetrable jungle, the secure haunts of tigers, leopards, rhinoceroses, and occasionaUy of elephants, its vast swamps being unfavourable to the latter.' Such was the condition of Province WeUesley when transferred to the British. For some years it appears to have been aUowed to reraain in much the same state ; lately, however, cultivation has been making rapid strides, and in 1836, according to Captain Low, the extent of land under cultivation was about 120 square mUes, being six-sevenths of the whole province. The stable production is rice, which is cultivated to a great extent, the low swampy lands of the province being weU suited for its culture. Sugar is also extensively cultivated in the central and southern portions of Province WeUesley, PENANG AND PROVINCE WELLESLEY, 155 Several species of indigo exist, but it is not of the first quahty, and its manufacture is so crude as to render it only fit for home consumption. The sandy soU, which frequently occurs in the pro-vince, is generally appropriated to the cocoa- nut, which thrives here exceedingly weU," 156 Chapter VII. BUEMAH. Amherst — Eiver Salween — ^Moulmein — Many European Ships in Harbour — Cargoes of Teak Timber — Moulmein a Flourishing Port— Saw-miU— Strength and DooUity of Elephants employed in Timber-yards — Temple or Pagoda containing Idol of Sleeping Buddha — Impression or Print oi Buddha's Foot — Burmese Women, each carrying a Child on her Hip — Large Dagoba on the top of the HiU — An Idol of Sleeping Buddha — A Eepresentation of a Large Turtle — Obtain from the top of this HUl a fine View of Moulmein — EngUsh Church — Eoman CathoUc Church — Hindoo Temple — Mohammedan Mosque — Cemetery — Caves — Gulf of Martaban — Eangoon Eiver, or Eastern Branch of Irrawaddy — PUot — Brief Sketch of Eangoon— PubUc Gardens — Phayre's Museum — Mih tary Gardens — Barracks — Eangoon Lake — An English Evangehst — Large White Dagoba in the centre of Eangoon — An Enclosed Market place or Bazaar — The Shoe Dagon Prah or Golden Dagoba — Large BeU — Mohammedan Mosque — Hindoo Temple — Gaol — EngUsh Church — ' Monaatic or CoUegiate Institutions — PupUs recei-ving Instruction — Corpse of a Buddhist Priest — Funeral — Hindoo Procession — Burmese Costumes — Bodies Tattooed — Food — Marriage Ceremonies — Funeral Ceremonies — National Eeligion of Burmah — Buddhist Priests — Des potic Form of Government — Products of the Country — Wild and Domestic Animals — Brief Sketch of Burmah — An Account of Colonel Browne's Attempt to Cross the Burmese Frontier en route through China, Ee-embaeking at Penang, we set sail, if we may so speak, on our voyage to Burmah. After a very short and agreeable passage we anived at Moulmein, which is the capital of the Tenasserim pro\dnces of Burmah. Shortly after passing the thickly-wooded town of Amherst, where rest the remains of Mr, Judson, for many years a zealous and indefatigable mis sionary, we steamed up the river Salween on our course to Moulraein, and were not a Uttle gratified in having an oppor tunity afforded us of navigating the waters of this noble stream. As we proceeded on our way we met three or four very large BURMAH, 157 English vessels, which, und^r the management of pilots, were going towards the ocean. These ships, which were one and aU tiraber laden, were bound to England, The rich verdure of the trees with which the banks of this river are fringed added greatly to the pleasure and interest of the scene. After a pleasant run of twenty-seven or thirty English miles up this river, our steam vessel, the " Goa," let go her anchors immediately opposite the town of Moulmein. The rivei, which foims of couise the haiboui, was UteiaUy crowded with Euiopean vessels of all kinds. These various craft were either receiving or waiting for cargoes of teak, a quality of timber this -with which aU the neighbouring forests greatly abound. We debarked as soon as it was convenient for us to do so, in order that we might have the pleasure of in specting the town. This place, when ceded to the British in 1826, was simply forraed of dirty and iU-ventUated lanes ; now it is a large port, having wharves, chuiches, schools, and wide and weU raacadamised stieets and roads. The principal stieet of the town luns paiaUel -with the livei. It com municates, howevei, -with othei parts of the town by raeans of stieets which join it at right angles. The great majority of the houses are buUt of wood. When, theiefoie, fiies occux the destraction effected is veiy gieat. It is on lecoid that, owing to a conflagration which took place in 1850, a loss of upwards of £60,000 was experienced by the principal Euro pean merchants. The place which we first visited was a large saw-miU, where by the power of steam, huge logs of teak timber were being very quickly sawn into thin planks. The sights, however, which mostly interested us were those which we saw in an extensive timber-yard attached to this saw-mUl. We allude to the docile elephants belonging to the establishment. Of these ponderous animals sorae were engaged in piling great logs of timber. Each of the brutes dragged, by means of chains, the logs from the wharves, and on arriving at the stack or pUe of timber which was being constructed, he, by the aid of his trunk and tusks, raised the log to the exact 158 BURMAH, position which it was to occupy in the pile. This manifesta tion of strength, dociUty, and precision on the part of each elephant, was indeed very remarkable to behold. Other elephants were occupied in pUing thin slabs. Each beast en gaged in this work canied the slabs between his jaws. Of the elephants employed in the heavier work which we have described one had broken tusks. This misfortune had occuned to him in consequence of his cruel driver ha-ving called upon him to raise a weight of timber to which his tusks were not equal in point of strength. We now wended our way to a temple or pagoda in which colossal idol of the sleeping Buddha is contained. Having examined this figure and sevexal smaUex figuies of the sleeping Buddha, oux attention was diiected to a print oi irapression of Buddha's foot, A beU, too, on which several Buimese chaiacteis are engxaved came undei oui notice. This beU, which was without a clappei, was made to send forth sounds by means of deei antlers, with one of which each votary strack the side of the beU, This mannei of ringing beUs is not unusual on the part of the Buimese, The gilded dome of this dagoba oi pagoda is ornamented with several small gilded beUs, As the wind at the tirae of oui -visit to this fane was blowing slightly, the beUs weie consequently giving forth gentle sounds. As we were in the act of leaving the teraple thiee oi foui Buimese women, each canying a child on hei hip, were enteiing. This mode of canying young chUdien is practised not only by Buimese women, but by those also of the countries of Annam, Cambodia, Siam, and the Malayan peninsula. We now pioceeded to the top of the hill with the view of visiting the laigest and raost important dagoba of which Moulraein can boast. In this temple, which is approached by a long flight of stone steps, we observed in one shrine an idol of the last Buddha, which was surrounded by several smaUer idols, A large idol of the sleeping Buddha also attracted our attention. In close proximity to this idol there was, in a kneeling posture, a gilded figure or effigy of BURMAH. 159 a Buddhist priest as if in the very act of pajdng devotion to it. In another shrine of this same temple we also saw an idol of the last Buddha. On the floor of this shrine there was placed a representation of a large turtle. Above the grand entrance of this teraple there was suspended a board , on which, in very legible characters, was painted a notice to the effect that all Indians and Chinese, when visiting the fane, are expected to take off their shoes, even before walking over the high and weU-paved platform or dais on which it stands. Europeans are also caUed upon by the sarae notice to respect the religious feeUngs of the Burraese, and not on any account to remove flowers or ornaraents frora the temple. AU offenders, continues the notice, wUl be dealt with according to the Indian penal code. The bUd's-eye view which is obtained of Moulmein and its en-virons, from the raised ground on which this temple stands, is very beautiful. The river Salween, seen frora this point, presents a very charming appearance. Its various branches, enclosed by weU- wooded banks, resemble so raany small and picturesque lakes. To us, at aU events, this view, seen as the sun was setting, proved very enchanting. We felt much disappointed at the mean and poor appear ance which the EngUsh church presented. It is pro-vided with a tower, and is constructed of wood, and has, in con sequence, the appearance of a temporary rather than a per manent buUding. The Eoraan CathoUc church, which is sur mounted by a spire, is built of bricks, and is cruciforra in design. The Hindoo temple is very smaU and dirty. The Mohamraodan raosque, on the other hand, is large. On the south side of this buUding there is a large brick tank, frora which, by means of turncocks, water can be obtained. It is here that aU votaries, before they enter the mosque, perform their ablutions. The roof of this edifice is supported by arches, as is the case with the mosques of Malacca, Singa pore, and Penang. The balustrade by which its terrace is enclosed is surmounted by sraaU rainarets, which impart to it a very finished appearance. The English cemetery is large, and 160 BURMAH. kept in a state of great neatness. It is approached by a large lynk gate ; indeed so spacious is this covered gateway, that it might very well answer the purposes of a mortuary chapel. Several of the tombs in this cemetery were, we noticed, covered with pa-viUons of wood. We were unable, however, to ascertaia the reasons for the observance of this singular custora. Having -visited aU the places of interest of which the town of Moulraein can boast, we entered upon an exploration of its environs. In the pursuit of this pleasure we rose one morning at a very early hour, and set out on a journey to some limestone caves, which are situated at a distance of eight or ten mUes frora the town. As no one was stining at the hour of our de parture from Moulmein, we were obliged to leave without partaking of bieakfast. Enteiing a one hoise ghany, we weie driven at a gieat pace thiough the town, and a few mUes onwaids to the banks of a livex. Hexe it was necessaiy foi us to aUght from oui ghany, in oidei to cross the livei, the caves being situated at a distance of a few mUes beyond it. The passage of the livei was easily effected by means of a spacious feny boat, and in which were seated, togethei with ouiselves, Buxraese, Chinese, Hindoo, Siaraese, and Moham raodan passengeis. On leaching the opposite bank, we at once hired a buUock cart in oidei that, without any loss of tirae, we might proceed to the caves. In this cart, to which a pail of stiong bullocks had been yoked, we took oui seats, and ere raany minutes had elapsed, were diiecting oux couise along a weU macadamised load, towaids the desUed object of OUI puxsuit. Hungex now began to make us feel xathex un equal to the joumey. Foitunately, howevei, at this moment we met with a Buimese milkman, who was on his way to Moulmein with the usual supplies of new milk foi the sei vice of the Euiopeans lesiding at that port. This man was caUed upon to halt by oui guide, and asked to seU us as much milk as would suffice foi a bieakfast. This favoui he very readily conferred, and in the strength of that milk we travelled during the greater part of the day. In due course of time we BURMAH. 161 came in sight of the lofty, ragged Uraestone-hiU, at the base of which the caves are entered. On our arrival at this singular geological forraation, we entered one cave in which were five large idols of the sleeping Buddha, together with many other idols of Buddhistical worthies. Of the many stalactites with which the roof of this cave was adorned, there was one which, when struck, sent forth sounds similar to those of a drum. These caves, one of which is very extensive, are well deserv ing of a -visit. We were, however, very rauch surprised to find how few are the traveUers, who on their arrival at Moul mein, repair to these extraordinary works of nature. On our return frora the caves, towards Moulmein, we met -with a large herd of water buffaloes, and an equaUy large herd of cows and buUocks. These cattle were, one and all, fine-looking ammals, a fact which spoke weU, we thought, for Burmese breeders of stock. A numerous flock of white storks aUghted in a field very near to which we were passing and did not seem alarmed at our presence. This circumstance we were disposed to attribute to the prevalence of the Buddhist reUgion through out Burraah, as it is a creed which enjoins upon all its fol lowers the sacred duty of not taking Ufe. The same reason may account for the vast nuraber of ravens which we observed in the streets and on the tops of the houses of Moulraein. These latter birds, like those which we had previously seen in Cambodian and Siamese towns, were impudent and daring to a gxeat degree. We were struck on seeing so many of the inhabitants of MoulmeUi tattooed from the waist to the knees. This sin gular custom greatly disfigures them, and imparts to them an appearance which woiUd better become an unciviUsed xathei than a semi-civUised people. We now embarked foi Eangoon. Oui voyage across the Gulf of Martaban, in a vessel so fast and so weU commanded as the steam-ship "Goa," was speedily and agreeably ac compUshed. On leaching the mouth of the Eangoon rivei, 01 moie piopeily speaking the eastern bianch of the livex Ixiawaddy, we stopped foi a few minutes, in oidex to xeceive M 162 BURMAH. on boaid a Ucensed pUot. It appeared to us, howevei, that he had no veiy difficult duty to dischaige, inasmuch as the dangeis attending the navigation of this livex axe cleaxly indicated by several large iron buoys. At length the city of Eangoon came in sight. And here let us pause to observe that this city, which is the capital of the province of Pegu, was origi naUy founded in 1753, by Alompra, a sovereign who is justly regarded as the father of the Burmese monaxchy. He called the city in question Eangoon, oi the " City of Victoiy," in honoui of his subjugation of Pegu. This city, when captuied and held by the British in 1824, that is, duiing the fiist wax which Gxeat Britain waged with Buimah, was, says a wiitei, " oval in shape, and lound the town was a wooden stockade, foimed of teak piles, driven a few feet into the giound, and in some places twenty feet high. The tops of these were formed by bearas transversely placed, and at every four feet there was an erabrasure on the summit of the waUs, which gave it a good deal the appear9,nce of an ancient fortifica tion. A wet ditch protected the town on three sides, the other was on the bank of the river. " The interior consisted of four principal streets, inter secting each other at right angles, on the sides of which were ranged, with a tolerable degree of regularity, the huts of the inhabitants. These were solely buUt with mats and bam boos, not a naU being employed in their formation : they were raised invariably two or three feet from the ground, or rather swamp, in which Eangoon was situated, thereby aUow ing a free passage for the water with which the town was inundated after a shower, and at the sarae tirae affording a shelter to fowls, ducks, pigs, and pariah dogs, an assemblage which, added to the inmates of the house, placed it on a par with an Irish hovel. The few brick houses to be seen were the property of foreigners, who were not restricted in the choice of materials for buUding, whereas the Burmans were, on the supposition that were they to build brick houses, they raight becorae points of resistance against the Govern ment. Even these buUdings were erected so very badly that BURMAH. 163 they had more the appearance of prisons than habitations. Strong iron bars usurped the place of windows, and the only comraunication between the upper and lower stories was by means of wooden steps placed outside. Only two wooden houses existed much superior to the rest, and these were the palace of the Maywoon, and the Eondaye, or HaU of Justice. The former of these, an old dUapidated buUding, woiUd have been discreditable as a barn in England, and the latter was as bad." This city was destroyed by fire in 1850, and on this sad occasion, not less than two thou sand houses were reduced to ashes. The site of the town by which it was replaced was thrown back a mile's dis tance frora the former position on the banks of the river. It was in the forra of a square and nearly a raile in length. On the north side of this city there was an artificial mound, which from its coraraanding position was converted into a citadel. This stronghold was attacked and eventually stormed by General Godwin in the month of April, 1852, that is during the second war, which Great Britain waged with Burraah. The capture of this stronghold, on the part of the British, sealed the fate of Eangoon, for it at once feU into the hands of the British, and has ever since remained in their possession. In the year foUowing its capture by the British, it feU a -victim to another serious confiagration. Several of its pubUc buUdings and the great majority of its shops and dwelUng-houses succumbed to the devouring eleraent. Ere the rebuUding of this city was entered upon, plans with a view to its proper construction were laid down by the British authorities. And now Eangoon, in regard to excellent streets and roads, to say nothing of cleanliness, sewerage, and other sanitary regulations, is a model eastern city.* A few of the houses and shops of which the streets of Eangoon are formed are built of beams and planks of timber, and thick stems of bamboo. The sides of the dweUings usaally consist of teak planks or mats. In some instances, however, * We are indebted for much of this information to Thornton^ Gazetteer of India. M 2 164 BURMAH. thatch, weU secured by canes, is substituted for planks or mats. The roofs of many of the houses consist of thatch, which is so closely wrought as to successfuUy defy inroads either on the part of rain or wind. The thatch is made, in some cases of denvice leaves, and in others of a taU and very strong grass. Not a few dweUing-houses, let it be observed, are covered with roofs of tUes. The floors are raised a few feet above the earth, a circumstance this which adds greatly to their comfort As an almost invariable rule, however, the houses of all respectable citizens are constructed of wood, are pro-vided with plank floors, and paneUed doors, and are two stories high. This is, indeed, the case with the great majority of houses of which Eangoon is formed. On our arrival at this city we were kindly received and hospitably entertained by Captain and Mrs. Wright. As we sat at the table of our kind host and hostess, we were much amused on seeing a great number of crows, which were flying around the house. As the doors and windows were open they occasionally ventured into the rooms in search of food. Indeed one of these bUds was so daring as to enter the dining-roora where we were sitting at meat, and to steal from a side table a piece of cheese. As in Cambodia and Siam, so also in Burmah, no one interferes with these birds, on the ground, we suppose, that it is not only impoUtic to destroy creatures so useful as scavengers, but that it is contrary to the teaching of the Buddhist religion to take the Ufe of any Uving thing. The first walk which we took, during our visit to Ean goon, was to the pubUc gardens. They are not very exten sive, nor are they kept in very good order. One great object of attraction, however, which they possess, is Phayre's museum. This public institution is so caUed in honour of Sir Arthur Phayre, who was for several years Commissioner or Governor of British Burmah. As it is stUl in its infancy it does not, of course, contain very many works, either of nature or art. It promises, however, to become ere long, a very famous institution. The military gardens to whicli. BURMAH. 165 in the next instance, we drove are not only spacious but neat. In the centre of these gardens there is a pond of water, which adds greatly to their beauty. The barracks, in which are quartered British troops, are in proximity to the lake, and are weU constructed. They are neat and airy, and, as residences for English soldiers, highly salubrious. Very near to the barracks there stands a Eoman CathoUc chapel, and to which, we suppose, Eoraan CathoUc members of the garrison resort to pray. We now visited the Eangoon lake. It is a small sheet of water, and resembles in many respects one of the numerous beautiful lakes by which Cumberland and Westmoreland are beautified and adorned. As we drew near to this lake we observed seven or eight gentlemen, who were standing on its shore and singing, in praise of God, a beautiful hymn. On joining this group of pious EngUsh gentlemen, we found that they had assembled themselves together in this place for the purpose of preaching to British soldiers, and aU Europeans who inight pass that way, the gospel of Christ, The evangehst or preacher was a young man, who had recently arrived frora England, and though he did not preach on the occasion to which we refer, in consequence of the paucity of his hearers, yet, from subsequent conver sations which we had the pleasure of holding with him, we had every reason to beUeve that he was weU calculated to discharge with effect the grave and responsible duties which, as an evangehst, devolved upon him. On our return to the town we visited a white dagoba, which stands in the centre of the town, and is supposed to cover a sacred relic. It is, therefore, much resorted to by Burmese votaries, who, on the occasion of rendering homage to the rehc which it contains, present eucharis tical offerings of flowers and broora and sticks of incense. Votaries not unfrequently visit this dagoba throughout the various hours of the night, and at such seasons ring or strike, as they approach the dagoba, smaU bells of a trian gular shape. Nocturnal visits, on the part of votaries, 166 BURMAH. to this dagoba are regarded, if we mistake not, as acts of penance. To an extensive covered bazaar, or market, we were next conducted. It is a very large institution, and presented at the time of our visit a very animated scene, being literaUy crowded by vendors and purchasers belonging to almost every rank and condition of Ufe. There were for sale commodities of nearly every kind. Thus, for example, grains, fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, fumiture, toys, &c., were exposed for sale in large abundance. The various stalls, too, were pre sided over by Burmese, Chinese, Mohamraodans, Malays, Shans, Hindoos, Siamese, Khlings, and men of other eastem nations. But it was now time for us to inspect the Shoe Dagon Prah, or Golden Dagoba, To this structure, therefore, which is the largest buUding of the kind in Burmah, we hastened. It is erected on the summit of a hill, which is at a dis tance of a mUe or a mUe and a half from the city, and stands on a paved dais which is nearly a thousand feet square, and which dais is approached by a long stone stair case. As a protection frbra sunshine and rain, this staircase is covered by an ornamental roof, which rests upon piUars polished or adorned in such a msinner as to resemble shining colunms of alabaster. The base of the dagoba, which in point of shape is octagonal, and in regard to circumference fifteen bundled feet, is sunounded by xepiesentations of fabulous animals scxUptuied in statuaiy of gxanite. The dagoba, which is buUt of solid masoniy of bxicks and Ume, and which, in foxm, xesembles a huge sugai loaf suimounted by a spire or tee, which signifies umbreUa, is literally covered with gold leaf When the sun, at meridian, sheds its rays upon this elaborately gilded stracture, so dazzling is the brightness which it emits, as to be almost too powerful for the eyes of man to behold. At each corner of the dagoba are placed idols. Of these figures one is a most beautiful castiag in brass. It is said that under this haughty pUe of grandeur, which reaches an altitude of three hundred and twenty-six BURMAH. 167 feet, axe deposited lelics of the last foui Buddhas, namely the " staff of Kanthathon, the watex-dippei of Gaunagon, a gai- ment of Kathapa, and eight haiis fxom the head of Gaudaraa," A vexy few weeks ox days befoie oui anival at Eangoon, the foimei tee oi umbieUa of the dagoba was replaced by a new one, and, at the time in question, the dagoba, fiom the base to the suramit, was xegUded at a cost of £50,000 stexUng, The sum was given, fox the puipose, by His Majesty the King, Two of the many artificers, who were engaged in this work, feU from the top of the dagoba and were kiUed, and so died, according to Burraese notions, a raost honourable and happy death. The courtyard in which the dagoba stands, contains many smaU temples, in some of which are idols representing Gaudama, or the last Buddha, In a porch, too, there is a bronze figure of the sleeping Buddha, Under a pavUion in this same courtyard, there is placed a large iron safe, the hd of which is perforated in order to receive the pecuniary offerings of the faithful. This money-receiver is opened once annuaUy, and its contents are expended, if we mistake not, in the services of the dagoba. There are those, however, who assert that the contents of the safe, when they have accumulated for years, are melted down and cast into a beU. Of a beU they apparently at present stand in no need, as near to the large dagoba, and in a neat belfry, a very large beU is suspended. On it there is an inscription in the Bur mese language whicb sets forth that it was cast at the expense of, and presented as a necessary appendage to the dagoba by, a former Kiag of Burmah, Prayers are also expressed that for this gift the royal donor may after death be received into nirvana, a state of inconceiva.ble bliss. Of the sequel of this inscription the foUowing is a translation : — " Thus in order to cause the voice of horaage during the period of five hundred years to be heard at the monument of the di-vine hair in the city of Eangoon, let the reward of the great merit of giving the great bell called Maha Gauda be unto the royal Mother Queen, the royal Father Proprietox of 168 BURMAH, Life, Lord of the White Elephant, the royal grandfather Aloungmeng, the royal uncle, the royal aunt Queen, the royal sons, the royal daughters, the royal relatives, the royal concu bines, the noblemen, the miUtary officers and teachers. Let the genii who guard the religious dispensation five thousand years, the genii who guard the royal city palace and um breUa, the genU who aU around guard the empire, the pro vinces, and -viUages, the genii who guard the raonuraents of the divine hair, around the hill Tarapakokta, together with the genii governing Bomma and Akatha, and all rational beings throughout the universe, utter praises, and accept the supplications." On the capture of Eangoon, the English took possession of this beU with the intention of forwarding it as an object of interest either to England or Calcutta. All their plans, how ever, in this respect were frustrated by the capsizing of the boat in which it was beiag sent off to the ship. The beU, of course, quickly found its way to the bottom of the sea, and there remained untU it was raised and replaced in its foimei position by the Buimese. As we wexe walking to and fio on the vast dais, in the centre of which the dagoba stands, we obseived in one coinei thereof foui tombs. On dxawing neax to them we leamed that they respectively contained the xemains of EngUsh officexs, who were kUled in action duiing the last Buimese wai. But let us supplement oux account of this extiaoidinaiy stxuctuie by an extiact on the same subject, fxom an intex esting and well-written book entitled Two Tears in Ava. " Two mUes noxth of Eangoon, on the highest point of a low lange of hills, stands the stupendous pagoda caUed the Shoe Dagon Piah, oi Golden Dagon It is encircled by two brick terraces, one above the other, and on the summit rises the splendid pagoda, covered with gilding, and dazzUng the eyes by the reflection of the rays of the sun. The ascent to the upper terrace is by a flight of stone steps, protected from the weather by an ornamented roof The sides are de fended by a balustrade, representing a huge crocodUe, the BURMAH. 169 jaws of which are supported by two colossal figures of a male and female PuUoo, or evU genius, who, with clubs in their hands, are erablematicaUy supposed to be guarding the entrance of the temple. On the steps the Burmans had placed two guns, to enfilade the road, and, when I first saw this spot, two British soldiers were mounting guard over them, and gave an indescribable interest to the scene. It seemed so extraordinary to -view our arms thus domineering amidst all the emblems and idols of idolatry, that, by a stretch of fancy, I could alraost suppose I saw the green monsters viewing with anger and humiliation the profanation of their sanctuaries. "After ascending the steps, which are very dark, you suddenly pass through a smaU gate and eraerge into the upper terrace, where the great pagoda, at about fifty yards distance, rears its lofty head in perfect splendour. This ira raense octagonal gUt-based monument is surrounded by a vast nuraber of smaUer pagodas, griffins, sphinxes, and images of the Burman deities. The height of the tee, 336 feet frora the terrace, and the elegance with which this enormous mass is built, combine to render it one of the grandest and most curious sights a stranger can notice. Frora the base it assuraes the form of a baU or dome, and then grace fuUy tapers to a point of considerable height, the suramit of which is surraounted by a tee, or umbreUa, of open iron work, from which are suspended a number of smaU bells, which are set in motion by the sUghtest breeze, and produce a confused though not unpleasant sound. The pagoda is quite soUd, and has been increased to its present bulk by repeated coverings of brick, the work of different Kings, who, in pursuance of the national superstitions, imagined that, by so doing, they were performing meritorious acts of devotion Facing each of the cardinal points, and united with the pagoda, are small temples of carved wood, fiUed with colossal images of Gaudama. The eastern temple — or, as we caU it, the golden — is a very pretty edi fice. The style of building a good deal resembles the 170 BURMAH. Chinese ; it is three stories high, and is surmounted by a smaU spUe, bearing a tee ; the cornices are covered in the raost beautiful manner, and with a variety and neatness of conception scarcely to be surpassed, and the whole is sup ported by a number of gUt pillars Eound the foot of the pagoda are ranged innumerable small stone pUlars, intended to support lamps on days of rejoicing, and in their vicinity are large stone and wooden vases, meant for the purpose of receiving the rice and other offerings made by the pious.'' The Mohammodan mosque, which we also -visited, is large, and, in some respects, imposing. The Hindoo temple is, on the contrary, very smaU and insignificant. The gate way thereof is surmounted by a structure which may be deemed not very dissimUar to a Chinese pagoda. The jaU proved very well worthy of a visit. The prisoners are aU, during their stay in prison, taught a trade of some kind or other. Thus, for example, in one yard of the prison there were basket-makers, in a second tailors, in a third shoemakers, in a fourth millers, in a fifth carpenters, in a sixth carvers in wood, in a seventh carpet and mat manu facturers, in an eighth ropemakers, in a ninth chairraakers, and so forth. The EngUsh church, which is situated on the banks of the river, is a very neat edifice. On Good Friday, March 26th, 1875, we had an opportunity afforded us of attending the services of this sanctuary — an opportunity of which we very gladly avaUed ourselves. It boasts of a surpUced choir. We cannot, however, say that of choirs it is one of the most perfect. When the choristers and clergymen who took part in the ser-vices on the occasion emerged in processional order from the vestry the organist was playing the " Dead March in Saul," The good raen and boys, however, to whom we are- now raore particularly calling the attention of our readers instead of walking in solemn and measured steps, rushed towards the seats which they were respectively to occupy throughout the service. Thus the solemn and impressive BURMAH, 171 strains which the organ was sending forth, and the hurried gait of the choristers presented a very striking and unseemly contrast. On the foUowing day, Saturday, we visited one or two of the monastic establishments in which Buddhist priests re side, and in which they instruct the youth of Burmah in various branches of useful learning. For in this eastern land the education of the people is almost entirely, if not alto gether, coramitted to the care of Buddhist priests, , On entering one of these institutions, we found three or four priests, who, in an upper room, were teaching fourteen or fifteen boys to read. Each of these priests was wearing a dress of a yeUow colour, composed of two cloths, which were so thrown over the body as to completely cover it frora the shoulders to the heels,* Their heads, too, were very cleanly shaved,t The tutors and pupils were one and all squatting on the groimd, and so much occupied in their literaiy or scholastic puisuits as to be scaicely conscious of our pie sence. It would appeal that as the priests Uve on the charity of the people, going forth as they regularly do at an early hour in the raorning to obtain at the hands of the people daUy bread, they receive no fees from parents whose cluldren they are caUed upon to instruct. As we were wandering from one room to another in the second institution of this kind which we visited, we saw the corpse of a Buddhist priest. It was laid out under a raised wooden pavUion, which was adorned with gold leaf, and it was covered -with a white shroud. Near to this pa-viUon there stood a coffin, which was also overlaid with gold- leaf. On making enquires respecting this singular sight, -we learned that the departed one ihad been summoned from this earthly scene raore than a year ago, and that the corpse, which was then befoie us — his reraains — had been carefuUy embalraed. Of the Buimese mode of embalming the dead -we, at the sarae time, learned the foUowing paiticulais : — * Ordinary dress of a Buddhist priest in Burmah, Siam, and Cambodia, + This is the case with aU Buddhist priests. 172 BURMAH, The coipse having been opened, the intestines are removed therefrom, and the vacuum which is in this manner caused, is immediately filled with spices of various kinds. The whole body, with the view of protecting it from the air, is then besmeared, firstly, with a thick coating of wax, and, secondly, with one of gold-leaf. On descending frora this charaber of death into the court yard of the monastic institution we saw two four-wheeled chariots. In one of these vehicles, both of which were heavUy and clumsily built, it was intended to convey the coffin, and in the other the dead body of the monk to the funeral pyre. For the Burmese dispose of their dead by creraation. In due course of time buUocks were yoked to these chariots, and the funeral procession, which consisted of mourning priests, musicians, and singing raen and women, having been properly marshalled, moved slowly towards the funeral pyre. On reaching this point the remains were de posited in the coffin, which, in turn, was placed on the funeral pyre, and then, by raeans of smaU fire rockets, set on fire. As we, were returning to our quarters we met a large and noisy cavalcade. It was headed by a number of Hindoos who were carrying through the streets, on a dais or platform, a lofty paper pagoda. After asking various persons who at the tirae were passing what was the meaning of so singular a ceremony, we were at length told that its object was to in voke certain pluvial deities to grant the blessing of rain. This blessing was, then, much requiied by Buimese faimeis and otheis as the ploughing season had anived, without its oidinaiy concomitant, a copious showei of rain. The diess of the Buimese is very plain and simple. The costume of the men consists of a long piece of striped cotton or sUk, folded round the waist, and hanging down to the feet. The gentry wear, in addition to the robe which we have just described, a jacket which is made either of musUn or cloth or velvet. Each man, too, covers his head with a turban of muslin. The women wear petticoats of cotton or sUk, They are careful, too, to cover their shoulders ere they BUEMAH. 173 leave their houses, not only with a jacket similar in shape and texture to that which men wear, but also with a mantle. Both men and woraen wear in their ears cylinders which are made either of gold, silver, wood, marble, or paper. When the ears of a youth are pierced a festival in honour of the occasion is duly observed. The mode in which the Burmese wear their hair, and which they daily anoint weU with oil, may be thus described : The men gather it in a bunch on the top of the head, while the woraen tie it into a knot behind. As we have already intiraated, the raen tattoo their thighs, hips, and waists. This singular custora, which is accompUshed by puncturing the skin and fiUing the wounds with the juice of certain plants, is practised to a gxeat degree. It is not, therefore, by any means unusual to see men ou whose bodies are representations of flowers and of various kinds of wild animals. Twice daUy the Burmese partake of food. That is in the morning at nine or ten o'clock, and in the evening at six. The food usually taken is boUed rice. The bowl or large platter in which the rice or green vegetables are con tained is raade to rest on a very low table or stand. Around this board the raembers of the family squat, and with fingers rather than spoons or forks, help themselves to the feast, Malcolm, in his celebrated work on South-Eastern Asia, speaks of the Burmese as an oranivorous people, and justi fies his reraark by observing that they eat aU kinds of reptUes and iasects. In regard to raarriage cereraonies, we raay state that when a young man has selected a woman to become his partner throughout Ufe, he authorises some aged persons to caU upon her father or guardian and raake proposals of marriage in his name. If the proposals are accepted, the bridegxoom hastens to the house of his father-in-law, where he continues to reside during a period of three years. He is then at Uberty, if he feel so incUned, to remove with his wife to a raore convenient dweUing. Funeral ceremonies may be described as follows : — The 174 BURMAH. body, so soon as the soul quits it, is washed and then shrouded in a white cloth. Visits of condolence are now paid by the various relatives and friends of the famUy. The imraediate relatives of the deceased laraent bitterly his death, and whUe gi-ving vent to their sonow, the friends who have come to condole, arrange aU the necessary prelimi naries for the due celebration of the last sad rites. To each person who attends on so mournful an occasion, betel-nuts and pickled tea are given, while to the priests and the poor, gifts of fruit and cotton cloth are presented. Burmese famUies, when bereaved of relatives, are enabled to observe tlus singular custom, by means of burial clubs, of which societies there are many in the country. The funeral pro cession is raarshaUed in the foUowing order : — At the head of the cavalcade presents of fruits and cloth for the priests and poor are borne, foUowed by gifts of betel-nuts and pickled tea for aU who attend on the occasion. These last-raentioned gifts are bome by priestesses attired in robes of white. Priests, walking two abreast, now appear, accorapanied by a band of rausic. At this point of the procession comes the bier, borne by friends of the deceased. This is foUowed by the various members of the bereaved famUy, each of whom is clothed in white vestments. The procession is closed by people who, either as distant relatives, or friends, or servants were associated with the departed one. On xeaching the funeial-pyie — ^foi as we have elsewheie stated, the Buimese dispose of theii dead by ciemation — the chief piiest dehvers an address, which consists, in a great raeasure, of reflections on the five secular commandments and the ten good works. So soon as this discourse has been brought to a close, the coffin is set on fire by some persons present, whUe others dis tribute the various alms to the priests and the people. The ashes are, in the course of a day or two, coUected and depo sited in a cinerary urn, with a -view to their interment. During this time, a wake is being observed at the horae of the bereaved ones, which, owing to the eating and drinking that prevails, imparts to the house more of the nature of a BUKMAII. 175 house of feasting than of a house of raourning. Ou the ninth day, the whole cereraony is brought to a close by a banquet, which is given in honour of the priests. The national religion of Burraah is, of course, that of Buddha. As we have, in our chapter on Cambodia, spoken fuUy of Buddha and the religion of which he was the founder, there is no need for us to enter here into any further details on the subject. We may, however, state that Burmah may be regarded to-day as the garden of Buddhisra, as in this country it is as free from the taint of other Asiatic creeds as it was when it came from the hands of Buddha. Mr. Malcolm, who was a missionary of sorae note, in -writuig on this subject, says, " There is scarcely a principle or precept in the Bedagat which is not found in the Bible. Did the people but act up to its principles of peace and love, oppression and injury would be known no more within their borders. Its deeds of raerit are, in aU cases, either really beneficial to raankind, or harmless. It has no mythology of obscene and ferocious deities ; no sanguinary or impure observances ; no self-inflicted tortures ; no tyxannising priest hood ; no confounding of light and wiong, by making ceitain iniquities laudable in woiship. In its moxal code, its desciiptions of the purity and peace of the fiist ages, of the shortening of man's Ufe because of its sins, &c,, it seems to have foUowed genuine traditions. In almost eveiy respect it seems to be the best leUgion which raan has evex in vented." Of the Buddhist pxiests in Buiraah, the sarae authoi writes in the foUowing stxain : — " The highest functionaxy is the Tha-thena-byng ox aichbishop. He lesides at Ava, has jurisdiction ovei aU piiests, and appoints the president of eveiy raonasteiy. He stands high at court, as he is consi dered one of the gjeat raen of the kingdom. Next to hira are the Ponghees, strictly so caUed, one of whora presides in each monastery. Next are the Oo-pe-zins, comprising those who have passed the noviciate, sustained a regular exarai nation, and chosen the priesthood for life. Of this class 176 BURMAH, are the teachers or professors in the monasteries. One of them is generaUy -vice-president, and is most likely to succeed to the headship on the demise of the Ponghee. Both these orders are soraetiraes called Eahans or Yahans. They are considered to understand religion so weU as to think for theraselves, and expound the law out of their own hearts, -without being obliged to foUow what they have read in books. Next are the Ko-yen-ga-lay, who have retired frora the world, and wear the yeUow cloth, but axe not at aU seeking to pass the examination and become Oo-pe-zins, They have enteied foi an education, oi a Uvelihood, oi to gain a divorce, oi fox vaxious objects ; and many of such xetuxn annuaUy to seculax life. Many of this class xemain fox Iffe without xising a giade. Those who rema.in five yeais honouiably aie called Tay, that is, simply priests ; and those who reraain twenty, axe Maha Tay, great oi aged pxiests. They might have becorae Ponghees at any stage of. this peiiod ff theii talents and acquirements had amounted to the lequiied standaid. By courtesy, aU who weai the yeUow cloth are caUed Ponghees," The govemraent of the countiy is despotic. The King, who describes hiraself as soveieign, lulei, diiectoi, and sole possessoi of the lives, peisons, and pioperty of his subjects, advances and degxades at his pleasuie. AU who aie adraitted into his piesence, clasping theix hands above then- heads, pxostxate themselves at his feet. The King of Buimah, though an absolute soveieign, is, nevertheless, aided in the government of the countxy by a Cabinet CouncU, and an assembly veiy limited, indeed, as to the numbei of its members, and consequently of very minor importance. His Majesty, however, is not bound to hearken to the counsel which they give. On the contrary, he too frequently dis regards the wise suggestions of the Ministers who are behind the throne, and acts according to the bent of his own will. The physical aspect of the country over which this despotic potentate beais sway is, in some parts, imdulating, and in otheis decidedly mountainous. All the low lands, BURMAH. 177 however, which aie weU wateied by the liveis, are feitUe to a degiee. Eice, wheat, tobacco, cotton, sugai, and indigo aie the principal pioducts. Tea, too, in some districts, is grown on the slopes of the lUUs. The mineral wealth of the country is, also, great. There are vast forests of teak, in which -wild animals of various kinds find a refuge. Of the beasts in question, the most remarkable are the elephant, rhinoceros, tiger, and leopard. Many elephants are caught, and raade subservient to man. White elephants are particularly prized by the royal family of Burmah, They are, in short, regarded by certain eastern princes as the iaseparable concomitants of regal state and pageant. Moreover, it is vainly supposed by the princes to whom we have just referred, that the possession of such animals secures success not only for their arms, but for their administrations. At Mandalay, the metropoUs of Burraah, and where, of course, the King has his principal palace, there is kept in the royal stables a so-caUed white elephant. This ponderous beast stands under an erabioideied canopy and receives almost as much attention and leveience as if he weie actuaUy a membei of the blood loyal. When King Men-ta- la-gyee ascended the throne of Buimah, upon hearing that theie was no such cieatuie as a white elephant in the stables of the palace, he gave oideis that no efforts were to be spared in the search and capture of an animal so rare. The efforts, which were raade in obedience to these royal coramands, re sulted in a complete success. The foUowing account of the treatment and reraoval of this animal to Amarapura is thus given by Sangermano : — " Iramediately upon its being cap tured, it was bound with cords covered with scarlet, and the most considerable of the mandarins were deputed to attend it. A house, such as is occupied by the greatest ministers, was built for its reception, and numerous servants were ap pointed to watch over its cleanliness, to cany to it every day the freshest herbs, which had first been washed with water, and to pro-vide it with everything else that could contribute to its comfort. As the place where it was taken was infested N 178 BURMAH. with raosquitoes, a beautiful net of silk was made to protect it from them and to preserve it frora all harra, mandarins and guards watched by it both day and night. No sooner was the news spread abroad that a white elephant had been takeu) than immense multitudes of every age, sex, and condition flocked to behold it, not only frora the neighbouring parts, but even frora the raost remote provinces At length the King gave orders for its transportation to Amarapura, and immediately two boats of teak-wood were fastened together, and upon thera was erected a superb paviUon, with a roof similar to that which covers the royal palaces. It was made perfectly impervious to the sun or rain, and draperies of silk, embroidered in gold, adorned it on every side. This splendid pavUion was towed up the river by three large and beautfful gUded vessels full of rowers. The King and royal famUy frequently sent messengers to bring tidings of its health, and make it rich presents in their name To honour its arrival in the city, a most splendid festival was ordered, which continued for three days, and was celebrated with music, dancing, and fireworks. The most costly presents continued daUy to be brought to it by aU the mandarins of the kingdom, and one is said to have offered a vase of gold weighing 480 ounces. But it is weU known that these presents and the eagerness shown in bestowing them were ¦owing more to the avaricious policy of the King than to the veneration of his subjects towards the elephant ; for aU these golden utensUs and ornaments found their way at last into the royal treasury. At the death of the elephant," continues Sangermano, " as at that of. an Emperor, it is pub licly forbidden, under heavy penalties, to assert that he is dead ; it must only be said that he is departed, or has dis appeared. As the one of which we have spoken was a female, its funeral was conducted in the form practised on the demise of a principal queen. The body was accordingly placed upon a funeral pile of sassafras, sandal, and other aroraatic woods ; then covered over with similar materials, and the pyre was set on fire with the aid of four immense BURMAH. 179 gilt beUows placed at its angles. After three days, the prin cipal mandarins came to gather the ashes and reranants of the bones, which they enshrined in a gilt and well-closed urn, and buried in the royal ceraetery. Over the tomb was subsequently raised a superb raausoleura of a pyraraidal shape, buUt of brick, but richly painted and gUt. Had the elephant been a male, it would have been interred with the ceremonial used for the sovereign. "The loss of the elephant was, however, soon suppUed, for another was caught in 1806 near a place caUed Nibban, in Pegu, and the day that Sangermano quitted Eangoon for Europe, the first of October, it was expected at that place. It was the same one that Crawfurd saw in October, 1826," In regard to the domestic aniraals of this country, we may raention oxen, buffaloes, and horses. Of these domestic quadrupeds, oxen and buffaloes, rather than horses, are era ployed in ploughing arable lands. Oxen, too, are frequently used by agriculturists, carriers, and others in conveying either farra produce or raerchandize to the various marts of the country. Thus it is not at all unusual, when travelUng in the interior, to raeet strings of bullock carts. As a rule, to each caxt two buUocks abieast are yoked. The peiiod when the Bxitish fixst visited Buimah seems to be a mattei of uncextainty. It is evident, howevei, that they were in the countiy in the eaily part of the seventeenth centuiy, as Englishmen — agents of the Honouxable East India Company — were at that time, togethei with othex Euiopeans, compeUed by the Buiraese authorities to take theii depaituxe from Ava. Again, we read that in 1687, the Island of Negrais, which is situated at the mouth of the western branch of the Irrawaddy, was seized by the British. Several years after this event, a ci-vU war, which occurred between the Burmese and Peguans, terminated in 1752 in favour of the latter. The victorious Peguans, however, did not long retain the advan tages which they had gained; for the hitherto-defeated Burraese, under the able command of their distinguished leader, Alompra, succeeded in recovering their political inde- N 2 180 BURMAH. pendence. It is stated that tlie success, which, on this occa sion, crowned the arras of Alorapra, was owing in a great measure to the aid which he secretly obtained from the British inhabitants of the Island of Negrais. This opinion is greatly strengthened by the fact that so soon as Alompra found himself once more in power, he cheerfully ceded to the British not oiUy the Island of Negrais, which in 1687 they had forcibly seized, but also a piece of land ac Basseio, on which to erect a factory. During the fifty years which imraediately ensued, the Burmese became highly renowned as warriors. Thus, for exaraple, in 1766, the Siaraese fled before the onward march of these invincible troops. Again, during the three foUo-wing years, the Chinese, who, for sorae poUtical motive or another, were terapted to invade Burraah, sustained a severe repulse. But again, in 1783, Arracan becarae a por tion of the Burmese empire, and ten years later — that is, in the year 1793 — they compelled the Siaraese to cede to them the whole of the pro-vince of Tenasserim. This 'step was eventually foUowed by the annexation on the part of the Burmese of Munneepore and Assam. It was, we think, in 1794, that a band of Mugh bandits frora Arracan, sought a refuge from the anger of the Burmese authorities, in the British possession of Chittagong. The Burmese being determined to apprehend these vagabonds, sent in pursuit of them, without having previously commu nicated with the British officials, a party of, armed men. So greatly annoyed were the British rulers of Chittagong at tliis inuption on the part of Burmese troops into British territory, that they immediately sent a detachment, under the comijiand of General Erskine, to repel it. There was, however, no need to strike a blow, as the Burmese commander received the expostulations of the English General with meekness, and at once agreed to withdraw his forces. No sooner had the aggressors retired into their own country than the bandits were seized and examined in obedience to the comraands of the British authorities, A primA facie case having been es tablished, they were in the next instance placed in the hands BURMAH, 181 of the Burmese, to be dealt with according to their laws. This righteous act on the part of the British was attributed to cowardice, and, consequently, aU their subsequent endeavours to obtain from the Burmese greater poUtical and commercial advantages were not only set at nought, but fuU measures of conturaely and scorn were at the same time heaped upon the British representative. Further, it happened in the year 1811, that a notorious Mugh chieftain, who was named Khynberring, fled for safety, on occasion of the subjugation of his principaUty by the Bramese, into the British province of Chittagong, During a sojourn in this land of freedom, he, it appears, eraployed his time in secretly forming a chosen band of foUowers, with the view of invading Arracan, and dri-ving therefrom, vi et armis, aU its Burmese inhabitants. This plan having been fully matured, was carried into effect, and though success for some time crowned the efforts of Khynberring and his brave fol lowers, yet tn the end they were signaUy defeated. This raid upon Axiacan on the part of Khynbening and his asso ciates, was attributed by the Buimese to British counsel and influence. Now with the -view of removing a suspicion so unjust and unfounded. Captain Canning was oideied to pioceed to Ava. He, howevei, was received at Eangoon with such a measuie of ignominy and scom, that he was obUged to give up all idea of reaching Ava, He, theiefoie, letumed to Chittagong. A demand which had been pieviously made, foi the suiieudei of KhynbeiTing and his associates in rebelUon, was again refused, on the gxound that it was contrary to the principles of the British Government to sunender those who had sought and obtained its protection. These repeated refusals gxeatly exasperated the Burmese authorities ; at length a despatch came to hand in which the Eajah of Eararee peremptorily caUed upon the British to give back to His Majesty the King of Burmah, not only the elephant grounds of Eamoo, but also the provinces of Chittagong, Moorshedabad, and Dacca, The British were, at the sarae time .assured that if the demand in 182 BURMAH, question was not complied with, hostilities would be the result. To this communication an answer was returned to the effect that the letter of the Eajah was a vain presumption, and that such an uncaUed for step ought to be visited with the chastisement which it so weU deserved. Of this matter, however, nothing more was heard. About this time the attention both of the Burmese and British authorities was directed towards Assam, A dispute having arisen, owing to the conflicting claims of two rival candidates for power in that country, the Burmese interposed, and chose for ruler the candidate, who, for various reasons, was bound to become an instrument in their hands. The Burmese, however, becoraing, ere long, very much dissatisfied with this personage, at once deposed him, and appointed one of theU own chiefs to rule in his stead. " The Burmese," to use the words of Thornton, " thus became neighbours to the British on the northern as weU as on the southern frontier, and avaihng theraselves of their favourable position, com mitted several acts of aggression on -viUages -within the British territory," They did not, however, confine themselves to the commission of such outrages as those to which we have just referred. On the contrary, they not only demanded the resti tution of certain jungles in the province of Chittagong, but at the same time seized some British subjects, who were hi pursuit of elephants and other aniraals, with which these jungles greatly abounded. These unoffending men, despite the remonstrances of the British authorities, were detained on the charge that they had been caught in the very act of trespassing on Burmese territory. The insults and indignities offered in this manner to the British of Chittagong were stUl further aggravated by the capture of a boat, which was saUing with a cargo of rice to the island of Shahpooree, The saUors hy whom this boat was manned, were no sooner in the hands of their Burmese captors than they were put to death. These daring acts greatly astonished the British, and thinking that the island of Shahpooree might, in the next instance, be BURMAH. 183 attacked, they resolved to strengthen the guard. Scarcely had these necessary precautions been taken, when the Governor of Arracan peremptorUy demanded that the guard should be withdrawn, and the island surrendered to its rightful owners. The Governor of Arracan was supported in this matter by the Eajah of Eararee, who, without any delay, proceeded -with a force of one thousand men to the island, and forcibly took possession of it. This event took place on the 23rd day of September, 1823. It is surely needless for us to observe that the island was almost immediately retaken by the British. The Burmese, however, ha-ving committed fm-ther outrages, the British felt that there could be no lasting peace between the two nations untU the Burmese had been thoroughly humiliated. They, therefore, declared war against them in the month of Febraary, 1824. In the foUowing month a considerable force from India, under the command of Sir Archibald Carapbell, arrived in Bm-mah ; and in the month of January of the following year Chittagong had within its frontiers an army of eleven thousand raen, under the cora mand of General Morrison. The reduction of the province of Anacan was regarded as the priraary step, and this plan was speedUy and successfuUy carried into effect. The next raove was to effect an union between the army under the command of General Morrison, and that which, under the leadership of Sir Archibald CampbeU, was en camped on the banks of the Irrawaddy, This latter scheme, however, could not be carried out, owing to the irapossibUity of crossing the Yoomadoung Mountains, There was a path way over this range of hUls, but at the time of which we are now speaking, was unknown to the British. The rainy season, which generaUy begins in the early part of May, now sent forth its usuaUy heavy and long-continued showers. Then followed a period of sickness and sorrow, which cannot be described without much pain. Fever and dysentery rapidly spread through the ranks, and many brave men who had sur- ¦vived the perils and dangers of several battle fields succumbed 184 BURMAH. to disease. In order to save the army frora perishing entirely, divisions of it were quickly reraoved to raore salubrious stations. Sir Archibald Carapbell was, however, aU this time, pro secuting the war with success. Prome and MeUore had faUen beneath his sword, and several dazzUng achievements had been effected under difificulties and discouragements of no ordinary kind. The British army was now steadUy marching towards the capital. This fact greatly disturbed the rainds of the Burmese, and at length induced them to agree to terms of peace. A treaty was, therefore, concluded at Yan- daboo, on the 26th of February, 1826. It was provided that the coast of Tenasserim, together with the pro-vince of Anacan, and its dependencies the islands of Eararee, Chedera, and Sandoway, which had been conquered by the British, should be retained by thera ; that the King of Ava should renounce all claims upon the principality of Assam and the adjoining states of Cachar, Jyntea, and Munneepore ; and that an accre dited minister frora each nation should reside at the court of the other ! Peace having been thus established, a British resident at once proceeded to the Court of Ava, He was graciously re ceived by the King, and matters political appear to have progressed most favourably untU the year 1837, Soraetime during the course of that year the King was deposed, and his brother, Prince Therawaddi, took possession of the throne. This sovereign had not reigned any great length of time ere he began to manifest a strong disUke to the presence of a British Minister at his Court. With the view, therefore, of concUiating his Majesty, the British Minister, with the sanc tion, of course, of his Government, removed to Eangoon, The King of Burmah, however, objected to the British Minister being permitted to reside at Eangoon, and in 1840 it was deemed advisable, for the sake of peace, to withdraw the British residency from Burmah, In 1852 the Govemor of Eangoon, for reasons which we do not understand, acted most unjustly and tyrannicaUy towards two EngUshmen, News of his arbitrary conduct having been speedily con- BURMAH, 185 veyed to Calcutta, Commodore Lambert was oideied to pro ceed, without loss of time, to Eangoon in oidei to demand lepaiation and an apology foi the wrongs which had been committed. The Buimese authoiities leceived the Com modore in a most haughty and defiant mannei, and at once refused to agiee to the teiras which had been submitted to theii notice. The Commodore finding that aU his aiguments pxevailed nothing, xesolved to blockade the port, and to letum to Calcutta foi fuithei advice. This lesolution he canied into effect. It was eventuaUy decided that a war was not to be entered upon untU all other plans for the proper adjustment of the difficulties, which had arisen, had been adopted. An ultimatum was therefore handed to the Governor of Eangoon, in which corapliance with three conditions was declared indispensable to the preservation of peace : -viz., the transmission of an apology for the insult offered to the British ofificers acting under Commodore Lambert; prompt payment of the sum of £990 as compensation to the two Englishmen whose rights had been outraged ; and the reception of a British agent at Eangoon under the provisions of the existing treaty ! All these endeavours, however, on the part of the British to effect an amicable anangement of the existing difficxUties having raost signaUy failed, war was declared, and at once entered upon -with great vigour. Martaban, which feU in the raonth of April, was the first fruits of the war to the British. Eangoon surrendered a few days later, though not without a temble sacrifice both of officers and men. Bassein, Prome, and Pegu foUowed in quick succession. Thus, in a Uttle time, the British array was found in posses sion of the lower portion of the Burraese empire. The annexation of this territory was made known through the medium of the foUowing proclamation : — " The Court of Ava having refused to raake amends for the injuries and insults which British subjects had suffered at the hands of its servants, the Governor-General of India in Council resolved to exact reparation by force of arms. 186 BURMAH. " The forts and cities upon the coast were forthwith attacked and captured, the Burraan forces have been dis persed whierever they have been met, and the province of Pegu is now in the occupation of British troops. " The just and moderate deraands of the Govemment of India have been rejected by the King, the ample opportunity that has been afforded hira for repairing the injury that was done has been disregarded, and the timely submission, which alone could have been effectual to prevent the dismember ment of his kingdora, is stiU withheld. " Wherefore, in corapensation for the past, and for better security in the future, the Governor-General in Council has resolved, and hereby proclaims, that the province of Pegu is now, and shall be henceforth, a portion of the British terri tories in the East. " Such Burman troops as may stUl remain within the province shaU be driven out, civU government sliaU imme diately be established, and ofificers shaU be appointed to ad minister the affairs of the several districts. " The Governor-General in Council hereby calls on the inhabitants of Pegu to submit theraselves to the authority, and to confide securely in the protection of the British Governraent, whose power they have seen to be irresistible, and whose nUe is raarked by justice and beneficence. " The Governor- General in CouncU, ha-ving exacted the reparation he deeras sufficient, desires no further conquest in Burmah, and is wiUing to consent that hostUities should cease. " But ff the King of Ava shaU fail to renew his former relations of friendship with the British Governraent, and if he shall recklessly seek to dispute its quiet possession of the pro-vince it has now declared to be its own, the Govemor- General in CouncU wUl again put forth the power he holds, and will visit with full retribution aggressions which, if they be persisted in, must of necessity lead to the total subversion of the Burman state, and to the ruin and exUe of the King and his race." We wiU now bring our remarks on Burmah to a close by BURMAH. 187 observing, that we were in Eangoon at the very time when Colonel Horace Browne and his companions retumed thither after a very serious encounter with the Chinese at a place caUed Tsarai, and which is not raore than six miles from the border town of Manwine, where Mr. Margary, one of Colonel Browne's companions, was most ci-uelly murdered. We can not, however, say that we were at all surprised on hearing of the murder of Mr. Margary and of the repulse of the expedi tionary force of which he was a member. Nothing could be more calculated to alarra the Chinese than the near and un expected approach of a band of one hundred and twenty men, some of whom were armed Sikh sepoys and others armed vUlagers. The Chinese very weU knew of the thirst on the part of the British Government to gain fresh acquisitions of tenitory. They were aware that India and a large portion of Burraah had been added to England's colonial empire. No wonder, therefore, that they regarded this onward march of armed men, under the dUection of Europeans, as having a hostUe bearing. The prefect, or whoever was in charge of the dis trict, would naturaUy feel that not to resist such a force would expose him, not siraply to a loss of his rank, but rather to the loss of his Ufe at the hands of his superiors. He was moved, therefore, and very naturaUy so, to resistance. It is said that perraission for this force to pass through China had been obtained from the central Government at Pekin, It is, however, very doubtful whether or not a knowledge of the granting of this permission, on the part of the central Government of China, had ever been conveyed to the pre fect or mandarin in charge of the district in which this sad catastrophe occurred. Moreover, supposing the mandarin knew nothing of any previously sanctioned anangeraents on the part of his Government, he certainly would have been justified in regarding the approach of these armed men as a direct -violation of international law. The following is Colonel Browne's own account of the events which occurred. We publish it in extenso : — 188 BURMAH. THE YUNNAN MISSION, " The next raorning (22nd of February) the first thing which was pointed out to rae was a continuous line of armed Chinese defiling towards our rear along the summit of a high ridge to the right of our camp. It was now unmis takably clear that some mischief was intended ; aU hope of a peaceful issue was dispelled by the sudden arrival of the Wonkaw Tsawbwa, who coraraunicated to us the horrible intelUgence that poor Margary and his men had aU been murdered the pre-vious evening at Manwine ; that a force of 4,000 men had been assembled by the Chinese officials at Moraein to annihUate us ; and that the men we now saw were the advanced guard of about 800 men who had pre ceded the others. When endeavouring to get back to give us timely inforraation, he (the Tsawbwa) had been detained and deprived of his pony at Poon-tsee ; but he had escaped, and had come on foot to give us warning. The warning was rather late, for he had hardly spoken before the enemy began to fire at us, " Our position was not a very defensible one. We were encamped athwart the road leading from Tsatee to Tsarai on a small plateau forraed by the talus of a lofty ridge caUed the Maroo hiU, On our right — taking our proper front to be the direction in which we were going — viz,, towards Tsarai — was this hiU. In front the road went down a descent towards Tsarai, On oux left was a steep descent do-wn to the vaUey of the Nara-hpoung Khyoung, which was some 3,000 feet below us. In oui leai was a toleiably open and level piece of giound up to a hUl some 250 oi 300 yaids off, thiough a goige in which ran the road to Tsatee, On the edge of oui plateau, to the leai, was a low lidge of locks, which foimed a convenient bieastwoik foi oui Sikh guaid duiing the action, oi so long as the attack was made from our rear. The main object of the enemy was evidently to cut off our retreat by Tsatee, and with this in view they had during the night or early morning marched from Poon- BURMAH, 189 tsee along the top of the ridge to our right, and estabUshed theraselves in force on the jungle-covered hiU in the rear. We found that they were strong on three sides — viz,, in our front, to our right, and to our rear. The only way of escape open to us was the steep, pathless, and, for aught we knew, impracticable descent on our left. From what we saw of thera we estimated the numbers of the eneray at 400 to 500 men, but there were probably many men concealed in the jungle whom we never saw, and the Wonkow Tsawbwa's estimate of their strength — -viz,, 800 men — raay have been correct, E-vidently there was nothing left but to fight it out. Sent, as we were, on a peaceful mission under the passport of the Emperor of China to solicit the friendship and to promote the interests of a large portion of his subjects, we suddenly found ourselves, owing to the diaboUcal machi nations of certain parties, obliged to fight for our lives against an overwhelming force, comraanded by Chinese officers, with the certainty that if the fortune of the day went against us, our heads would soon be decorating the walls of sorae Chinese city, LuckUy for us, we had our 15 trusty Sikhs, or I should not now be writing this letter, " The mule men no sooner began to saddle their raiUes than the first shots were fired at us by the Chinese who were concealed in the jungle to our rear. One raule was hit, and this was the signal for a regular stampede of raules and mule men. Throwing down their loads, they disappeared in a minute down the slope to our left. Even if they had been friendly to us, they would no doubt have done the sarae, as it was no part of their bargain with us to stand and be shot at. But many of the Poon-tsee and Tsarai men showed their aniraus by making hideous grimaces as they passed me, saying ' La-hyee, la-hyee ' (' They've come '), and making a sawing raotion with their fingers across their throats, as much as to say, ' Now your head wiU soon be cut off.' These Poon-tsee and Tsarai men we saw no more, and they proceeded, no doubt, to join their brethren who were fighting in the ranks of the eneray against us. At this time 190 BURMAH, aU we could see was a number of Chinese still advancing in single fide some 800 yards off, on the top of the ridge to our right, towards our rear, and puffs of smoke from the jungle- covered hUl to our rear, where, as we afterwards found, the Chinese had thrown up smaU earthworks across the road to cut off our retreat, " Iramediately the first shots were fired the Sikhs were placed in position behind the low ridge of rocks already mentioned, facing the hUl from which the shots were being fired at us. Kneeling down behind this ridge, nothing but their heads was -visible to the enemy, and from this posi tion they kept up a steady fire, though they had nothing' but the puffs of smoke to aim at. It was satisfactory to see what a continuous fire could be kept up by 15 steady men armed with Sniders ; but they coraraenced at such a pace that I thaught it necessary, not knowing how long we might be engaged, and fearing that our ammunition might be ex hausted before we were out of danger, to check them and direct them to fire only when they could actuaUy see a man to aim at, I regret now that I did so, for we ultimately found when the day was over that we had not expended half our araraunition (200 rounds per man), and crowded as the hiU was with Chinese, though we could not see them, a number of indiscriminate voUeys into the hUl-side would probably have done great execution among them. Encou raged, perhaps, by the slackening of our fire, some of the boldest of the enemy showed an inclination to storm our position. Emerging from the gap on the hill, through which was the road to Tsatee, they advanced into the open ground, wa-ving guns and-^ trident spears, making absurd gestures of defiance, and shouting out in Chinese that they were com manded by Shouk-goon, nephew of the great Li, and caUing on the Burmans to retire and leave the foreign devUs to their fate. A voUey from the Sikhs, however, when the enemy were at a distance which they probably considered safe, imraensely disconcerted this band of dancing warriors. Two of them feU at once at the entrance of the roadway into the BURMAH. 191 hUl — one killed on the spot, and the other probably only wounded, as we did not afterwards find his body. The remainder ran luther and thither Uke hares, hiding under the nearest shelter they could find. Most of thera raade their way back to the hiU. Two or three only, raore advanced than the rest, not hking, probably, to run the gauntlet back over the open ground in their rear to the hdl, took advantage of some inequaUties in the ground, and concealed themselves from us, popping up now and then for a second to wave their weapons and shout defiance to us and friendly advice to the Burmese. They had a hot tirae of it, for every time the Sikhs got a gUmpse of them they were fired at. They ceased to appear at last, and we thought we had hit them, but appa rently we did not, for we could not find their bodies. They probably hid under shelter, and crawled away afterwards when our attention was caUed to other quarters. " In the raeantirae our Burraan aUies were by no means silent or idle. Crouched down in a cluster on an eminence to the left of our rear, the main body of them did a great deal of shouting, beating of gongs, and firing off of rauskets. As the Chinese never fired in their direction, their bravery was not put to any great test, and any Uttle wavering or faint heartedness there raay have been among thera was dispelled by the success of the Sikhs' fire, which they haUed with great applause. Sorae of the Burraese ofificers, I raust say, did display a considerable amount of courage. Two of the most active among them, the Khyoung-oke of Ta-peng and the Keng-dat-hmoo, lea-ving their own raen, carae and stood, or rather danced, on the rocks in fiont of the Sikhs, whUe the Chinese were advancing. They made the most fiantic and, to oux ideas, most laughable gestures of defiance, and in good Buimese and bad Chinese heaped a great amount of violent abuse in true Oriental style upon the assaUants, daring thera to corae on and attack the servants of ' His Most Great and Glorious Majesty.' I beUeve the Khyoung-oke had sorae idea that he was making a fool of himself in Our eyes, for he informed me in an aside, that it was necessary 192 BURMAH. for the big men to do this sort of thing to keep the Uttle ones from being alaimed and from ranning away. " Aftei the Chinese had been driven back to their cover on the hiUs, they continued to fire at us all the morning, but from such a distance that their shots had very Uttle effect. They must have elevated their muskets considerably, as most of their buUets went above our heads. One of Dr, Ander son's coUectors, H. N, Sarauel, received a flesh wound (not serious) in his side ; my cook was struck on the foot by a spent buUet ; and one Burman, who had come to our part of the field, had his head grazed by a slug. These were the only casualties on our side. One man took a rather, good shot at me from a distance of two or three hundred yards, with a double-barrelled gun, firing both barrels at once, I happened to be looking in the direction at the time, and saw the two distinct flashes, and a Burraan who was standing near rae, seeing it also, said, ' There's the Tsarai Tsawbwa's son firing at you with the gun Sladen gave hira,' The raan could not possibly know whether it was the Tsarai's son or not, but his reraaik exempUfied the geneial feeling of the Buimans with regard to our making presents of firearms to these savages, A Pawraaing of Tsarai, known as the Tshan-poon Pawmaing, was distinguished by the sound of his voice among our assaUants. He was one of the men who had accompanied Margary from Narahpoung to Tsarai, having been requested to do so by the Burraans, who appeared to have the fuUest confidence in him. He had an extremely deep, gruff voice. I did not hear his voice myself during the fight, but some Burmans and Kakhyengs assured rae that they had heard it. The sarae man, with a double-barreUed gun, who fired at me, is supposed to have raade also a very good shot at Mr. AUen, the bullet going within a few inches of hira, "Towards the afternoon, although the Chinese did not venture to make another attempt to come to close quarters, raatters looked very unproralsing. The Chinese had heramed us in on thxee sides, A few buUets were beginning to drop in flora OUI fiont, as well as from oui light flank and xeai. BURMAH, 193 There seemed to be no hope of oui smaU fixe being able to dislodge thera fiora the thick jungle in which they weie con cealed without a considerable loss of life on oui side. If they succeeded in holding theii giound until nightfaU, we should be corapelled to await the doubtful issue of a night attack, in which the superiority of oui airas would not avaU us much. I began to considei the advisabUity of buming OUI baggage and beating an ignominious letieat down the precipitous slope to oui left. We had not been sent to make OUI way by force of airas, and, attacked as we weie in this disgiacefuUy treacherous raannei, I considered that my fixst duty was, if possible, to save the Uves of all the merabeis of the expedition, ha-ving fixst taken caie to prevent the Chinese from obtaining any booty by oui discomfiture. At this con juncture the Wonkaw Tsawbwa popped up frora the left of our position, and cooUy inforraed me that the Tsarai's son had offered him 500 rupees to go over to the other side — leaving me to infer that, of course, he intended to accept the pro position unless I had a better one to offer him. The irapu dent faithlessness of the savage was very aggi-avating, but the gravity of the situation did not admit of my showing him what I felt. ' Very weU,' I replied to him, ' if you will only burn the jungle in which these Chinamen are concealed, and -wiU undertake to transport our baggage without loss back to Tsekaw, I wiU give you 10,000 rupees, and here are 1,000 rupees do-wn.' The sura was so large that there was some difficulty in explaining to him what it meant. None of the interpreters apparently knew what the equivalent in Kachyen of 10,000 (if they have an equivalent) was. At last he was made to understand that it meant a.bout ten baskets of silver. The Tsawbwa imraediately agreed to these terras, seized the 1,000 rupees with the usual Kachyen avidity, and, after getting a supply of powder, set off down the hiU to our left to get round the Chinamen's flank to Tsatee, to coUect carriages and men, and make preparations for firing the jungle. The Manloung Pawmaing (one of the Burman officers) was sent with a few men to assist him. 0 194 BUEMAH. The Tsawbwa before he went cautioned us not to fire at any Kachyens who might make their way down through the Chinamen's position to assist us. This was the turning- point of the day. Before long we had the pleasure of seeing a column of smoke arise on t'ne left of the Chinese position. The wind fortunately was favourable, and in half an hour the whole of the hiU where the main body of the Chinese was stationed was in a blaze, and we saw men wUdly rushing about to escape by gaining the ridge to our right. Luckily for them, they got vexy rauch mixed up with Kachyens, who we thought might be raen coming fxom Tsatee to oux assist ance, and we could not theiefoie fiie at them. The Buimans then filed the side of the bill to oui right, and undex the covei of the smoke the eneray gained the xidge. Many fiiendly Kachyens then carae xushing foiwaid, asking foi powdei with which to fight the Chinese. This they pioceeded to do by fiist selecting sorae lock ox bush to sheltei thera, and, having theie ciammed a handful of powdei down theii matchlocks, they lushed foiwaid with loud shouts and fired wildly in the aix. The loudness of the lepoit was consideied vexy satisfactoiy, " About 4 P.M. we had the satisfaction of seeing the Whole Chinese foice in fuU retreat along the nanow load on the surarait of the lidge to oui right. They were rauch obscured by the smoke, but at one point about 800 or 1,000 yards from us, where there was no smoke, and where a precipituous descent on the other side of the road corapeUed thera to pass within sight of us, we pelted them pretty weU with buUets. Some of thera dropped, and all began to ran, stooping and dodging about as they approached this spot. The road to Tsatee was no sooner clear of the enemy than the Wonkaw Tsawba appeared with a long train of raules and raen. He had luckily succeeded in seizing most of the Tsarai and Poon- tsee mules, whose drivers had absconded. The mules were loaded in a wonderfuUy short time, and at 5 p.m. the last mule was driven out of the camp, and the things trotted off as fast as the men could go to the village of Tsatee, We saw them BURMAH. 195 all off, and having made a bonfire of some useless packages which were left, and of sorae of the abandoned pack saddles, we quitted the carap, leaving nothing behind for the Chinese. They were stUl firing at us frora the jungle in our front — i.e., towards Tsarai ; so we kept a few Buiraans and Sikhs firing frora behind our advanced breastwork up to the last raoment. They saw nobody to fire at, but the noise was suflicient to keep the Chinaraen away. On the road to Tsatee there was nothing to be seen of the eneray. Before reaching that -vUlage we raet a Na-khan-daw from Bharao, with a fresh force, said to consist of 80 raen, who had been sent to our assistance, but who had prudently halted sorae distance from the scene of the fight." Colonel Browne thought it prudent not to stay at Tsatee for the night, and moved on to a bettex position, Unfoi- tunately, the Sikhs' pxovisions had been left behind, so that after theix hard day's work they had to go supperless to bed. The next day they had to march 20 mUes over hiUy ground to Tsekaw, It was fatiguing work for the Sikhs, who had had no food since the pre-vious morning, and some of them were rather done up ; but provisions were procured for them at Tsekaw, 9,nd none of them appeared any the worse for their fatigue the foUo-wing morning. It became evident that Mr, Margary's advance to Manwine, and Colonel Browne's advance to and retreat from Tsarai, had induced the Chinese to attack before their prepaiations wexe complete ; and it was asceitained that a Chinese force was advancing, but too late, to prevent a retreat. Colonel Biowne also says : — " On OUI letuin to Tsekaw we found that the behavioui of the Chuiese lesidents of chat place towaids us was most stiikingly and significantly diffeient fxom what it had been befoie we started. Then they weie ci-vU and polite, many of them -visiting us and expiessing an inteiest in oui pro ceedings. Now their looks plainly show how much they detest us. The shopkeepers even refused to seU anything to the sepoys, and did not conceal the disappointment they felt at our having escaped from the hands of their feUow-country- 0 2 196 BURMAH, men. There is no doubt now that all these men knew when we left Tsekaw the kind of reception which was being pre pared for us by the Chinese authorities, and that they were iu constant coraraunication with the Moraein officials on the subject. The sarae reraarks apply also to the Yunnan Chinese residents of Bhamo, On the 26th of February — a smaU portion of our baggage ha-ving been brought in by Burmans, not Kachyens, the previous evening — we went down to Bharao, . . . The Atsee Kachyens inforraed us that they had heard a report that Yan-tajen, a Chinese official at Manwine, had punished the Chinese officers who were engaged against us for not having carried out the orders they had received, to kUl every one — ^Europeans, Chinese, and Burraans — connected with the Expedition, I give the re port for what it is worth, but do not place much faith in the accuracy of the inteUigence, especially in that part of it which relates to the Burmans, They also professed to have acquired information about the nuraber of the eneray whom we kiUed, At the close of the fight the Kachyens said they had counted seven dead bodies on the field, but they subse quently said that the casualties were : — Chinese : kiUed, 7 ; mortaUy wounded, but canied ofl', 7 ; burnt in the fire, 2 ; total 16, Kachyens of Tsarai: kUled, 2, Kachyens of Pontsee : kUled 2, Grand total 20 killed. But the accu racy of this also is doubtful, " Our thanks are due to our Burraan aUies for the assist ance they afforded us in the fight. Although theU weapons were not such as to enable thera to do much damage to the enemy, they showed their goodwUl by firiag, shouting, beat ing gongs, and using abusive language ; and as the Chinese used the same means to intimidate us, perhaps the Burmans did do something towards deterring the Chinese from coming to close quarters. The Burmans also were extremely useful after the fight in guarding our baggage and preventuig the Kachyens from steaUng. The Manloung Pawmaing also did us substantial service, as before stated, in assisting the Kachyens to fire the jungle. BURMAH, 197 " To the sraaU guard of Sikh Sepoys belonging to the 28th Punjab Native Infantry I can hardly give too much praise. Their services were invaluable. Had we been with out them, probably not one of our party would ever have escaped frora the Kachyen hiUs. A better selection of raen for the pecuUar duties they had to perforra could not have been made. They were orderly and weU-behaved, and never gave the least trouble throughout the journey. They are men of discretion as well as valour, and whether the Kachyens were firing matchlocks over their heads in an ira- potent endeavour to intimidate them, or were erabracing them in a state of maudUn drunkenness, they always raain tained a state of iraperturbable coolness. When called upon to fight, they set to work in a quiet, orderly, and business like manner, which did great credit to tbe training they had received. The HavUdax Mana Singh and Naicks Waiiiam Singh and Dewa Singh aie speciaUy tiustworthy men." 198 Chapter VIII, INDIA, Calcutta — Garden Eeach — Palace of King of Oude — Fleet of Merchantmen at the Anchorage, Calcutta — Palace of the Governor-General — Town HaU — High Court of Judicature — ^Museum — Fort WUliam — New Mint — Black Hole of Calcutta — Goal — St, Paul's Cathedral — Lunatic Asylum — ^Educational EstabUshments — Public Monuments — Public Gardens — Esplanade — Game at Polo — Streets and Eoads — Eoads Watered- Vehicles or Conveyances — Burning Ghauts — KaUghaut — Mohamme dan Mosque — Hindoo Festivals — Origin of Calcutta — Barrackpore — Governor-General's Palace and Grounds — Menagerie— Lady Canning's Tomb — Cantonments^^Serampore — Court-house — Temple in honour of Juggernauth — Baptist College — William Carey, Baptist Missionary — Colonel Bie, Danish Governor of Serampore — Baptist Chapel — Cemetery at Serampore — Mahogany Trees planted by Carey — Tomb of GokooU — Tomb of Carey — Benares^— Bridge of Boats — Sekrole, the European Quarter of Benares — Streets — Houses — Ganges, a Sacred Eiver — Ghauts — Fakirs — Burning Ghauts — Many Deities Worshipped in Benares — Principal Divinity Siva or Mahadeo, the Creative Energy — Many Lingas — Temple of Bhaironath — Temple of Danpan — Well of Fate — Temple of Bisheswar — WeU of Knowledge — Sacred BuUs — Manikarnika WeU— Durga Eund Teraple — Sacred Monkeys — Mosque of Aurungzebe — Buddhist Ruins at Samath — AUahabad — Lucknow — Cawnpore — Agra — Secundra — Futtehpore Sikree — Delhi — Ferozabad — Kootub and its Euins — Jubbelpore — IVandgaum — Aurunzabad — Dowlertabad — Caves of Ellora — Bombay — Caves of Elephanta — Matheran — Ghauts — Khan daUa — Caves of Karlee — Lanowlee — Poonah — Kurrachee — Muggur Pir, On the raorning of Easter Sunday, March 28th, 1875, we embarked at Eangoon in the steamboat " Arcot," on our voyage to Calcutta, At an early hour in the morning of the first day of April, we arrived at the mouth of the Hooghly, Here it was necessary for us to await the flowing of the tide, and, so soon as we had obtained sufficient water to enable us to cross the bar, we proceeded on our way. After steaming for some time up the Hooghly, we found ourselves navigating that branch of the river which is termed Garden Eeach, The INDIA, 199 left bank of the river, at this point, is bestudded with noble mansions, the tastefuUy-arranged and weU-kept grounds of which extend to the water's edge. Garden Eeach was, at one period, by far the most fashionable quarter of the city of Calcutta, but, in this respect it has, during the past few years, given way to Chowringhee, Near to the elegant residences of which Garden Eeach can boast, stands the stately palace of the King of Oude. This royal residence, which, in all its anangeraents, so weU becoraes the dignity and rank of a King, is very extensive, and its weU-kept grounds and gar dens are in perfect keeping with it. There are, confined within these gxounds, -wUd beasts, serpents, and bUds of various kinds, which are interesting as speciraens of natural history. As we were drawing near to the anchorage at Cal cutta, we observed, a short way ahead, a perfect forest of masts, and we were struck with the very imposing appearance .of one of the largest mercantile fleets we had ever seen. Several of the specimens of naval architecture which were presented to our -view seeraed to us to be very perfect. De- harking without loss of time, we went to the offices of Messrs, Jardine, Skinner, and Company, where we were very heartily welcomed by the Hon. BuUen-Smith and Mr. Wordie, both of whom are partners in this eminent firra. In a little time, the business of the day ha-ving been brought to a close, we went, accompaiued by Mr. BuUen-Smith, to the private residence of Messrs. Jardine, Skinner, and Company, which is situated at Chowringhee, where, during the ensuing fort night, we partook of the greatest hospitality at the hands of our kind hosts. But let us hasten to narrate our further experiences of Calcutta — a city which, in many respects, may justly be caUed a city of palaces. For who can visit that quarter of it which is caUed Cho-wringhee, and not feel that such an appeUation is a weU-merited one ! Here, raansions which, in point of architectural design, are Grecian, and which, not only externaUy, but also internally, present a most imposing appearance, raise their tops far above all surrounding objects. 200 INDIA, From these mansions there extends towards the Eiver Hooghly an extensive park, which is caUed the Esplanade, and wher^i, each evening, citizens have recourse for recreation. The first place which we -visited, was the palace of the Governor-Lreneral, a building, which would, we think, adorn any European city. It is built in the form of a crescent, ha-ving a lofty dome in the centre. The portico, which is massive, is made to rest upon pillars. The pubUc apart ments, such as the ball- and supper-rooms, are very spacious. Their waUs are adorned by oU paintings, several of which are representations of Englishmen who flourished in past ages. The Town-haU, to which we also dUected our steps, is, a very large and handsome edifice, buUt in the Doric style of architecture. As we entered this hall we observed a bust, sculptured in statuary of marble, of the famous Warren Hastings, The principal chamber of this buUding is ap proached by a two-fold staircase, and is of vast extent. It is in this large room that public entertainments, are given. The waUs of the lobby are beautified by many portraits of distinguished EngUshmen, who were associated -with India in times past. Amongst them we were pleased to observe one of the late Bishop WUson. There are in addition to these portraits a few monuments in white marble to the memory of iUustrious Britons. The High Court of Judicature is a most imposing buUding, and in point of architectural beauty and richness is not to be surpassed by buUdings dedicated to the sarae purposes in any part of the world. Its courts are numerous, and as they were open at the time of our visit we had an opportunity of inspecting thera. In each of the civU courts two judges were sitting, whereas in the criminal court there was but one judge. Of the barristers who had studied law, and had been caUed to the bar in England, there was one, a Hindoo, who was e-vi dently a man of great mental culture and abUity, His voice was that of an EngUshman, and as his costurae was English, his nationaUty could only be discovered by his swarthy com plexion. We heard, also, on the occasion of our visit to this INDIA. 201 High Court of Judicature, several EngUsh barristers plead. We came to the conclusion that in regard to self-possession, personal address, and fluency of speech, they were inferior to theU learned friend the Hindoo. Several pundits were pre sent in the courts, each of whom wore his iiatiA^e dress and turban. Of these pundits, aU who had occasion to address the court, did so in very good English. They are one and all fine looking men. The Museum, which, if we mistake not, was not estabUshed untu the year 1836, is very rich in its collections of animals, birds, fishes, shells, fossUs, casts of faces of men of aU nations and tribes, geological specimens, and portraits in oUs of men of renown. The buUding in which these various specimens of natural history are contained having been deemed unworthy of the city of Calcutta, a very grand edifice was erected -with the view of supplanting it. This massive and imposing struc ture, which had weU nigh attained completion at the time of our visit to Calcutta, contains, doubtless, at this moment, all the varied objects of interest and instruction to which we have just refened. Fort WilUam, situated on the Esplanade and at no great distance from the river, is said to be superior, in point of strength, to aU other fortifications in India. Of its eight sides — for in shape it is octagonal — five are so constructed as to face the Esplanade, while three look towards the river. The foundations of this stronghold were laid by the Ulus trious CUve shortly after the battle of Plassy, which battle was fought and won on the 23rd of June, 1757. This fort, which is pierced for six hundred and nineteen guns, was completed in 1773. It contains excellent accoraraodation for troops. There are also within its walls two chapels for the service of the garrison. Of these sacred edifices the one is, of course, an Anglican and the other a Eoman Catholic church. We entered both these places of worship, and so much alike were they in their internal arrangements that we could scarcely distinguish the one from the other. The new Mint, which is very extensive, presents a hand- 202 INDIA. some appearance. The style of arcliitecture is Grecian. It is only on the side of the building, however, which faces the street that there are columns. The various chambers of which it consists are wide, lofty, and weU ventUated. The machinery is of the most improved kind. The metal is softened by the action of fire, and then roEed into thin plates by means of cylinders. The plates in question having been cut into thin strips are then stamped. The various works of this extensive institution are, in a great raeasure, carried on by steara power. The Masier of the Mint, at the time of our visit to Calcutta, was a retired Indian Colonel. He was evidently weU acquainted with the duties of his ofifice, and possessed a very large coUection of coins, both ancient and raodern, which he kindly aUowed us to inspect. But though he knew the duties of his office, his raanners and address were so unprepossessing that we at length withdrew from the Mint, feeling that the pleasure of visiting it had, in sorae respects, been raarred by his uncouthness. The pubUc market or bazaar, a building of an imposing appearance, and covered with a very lofty and widely ex tended roof, is an institution of which any city in the world might well be proud. It is very large, exceedingly well ventilated, and furnished with a great raany stalls. As it is a place of general resort on the part of farailies in search of necessaries for the table, — to say nothing of articles of other kinds, — butchers, bakers, fishraongers, poulterers, greengrocers, fruiterers, florists, and others occupy its respective staUs, The gaol is extensive, cleanly, and weU managed. It contained, at the time of our visit, several prisoners, the great raajority of whora were either Hindoos or Mohammedans, Sorae of these raen were very frequent, and others very notorious offenders. It was possible to ascertain how many times each prisoner had been convicted by the nuraber of sraaU rings which were attached to his person. The boys are carefuUy kept apart frora the men. In one of the wards we saw six or seven EngUshmen, some of whora, for serious crimes, were undergoing periods either of penal servitude or INDIA, 203 lengthened unprisonraent. In the last ward, which We entered, we saw a man — a haU-caste — who was so ugly that it was disagreeable to look hira fuU in the face. And yet this mau was undergoing a term of imprisonment for having captivated another man's -wife to such a degree, that she, having pre viously possessed herseU of sundry goods and chattels belong- uig to her husband, decamped -with him. Surely there is no accounting for tastes. The " Black Hole," so notorious on the page of history, has been destroyed. On the site which it occupied the General Post Office now stands. We visited, however, the locaUty where this prison once stood, in consequence of its former historical associations. In this quondam prison, ou the floor of which not more than t-wenty prisoners closely packed could sit, one hundred and forty-six of our country men were imraured. They were driven into it at the point of the bayonet. On the door being closed, as the holes by which the air was admitted were very smaU, the sufferings of the prisoners were of the raost agonizing nature. The Indian soldiers who were on duty — soldiers of the Nabob Suraja Dowlah — only laughed at the cries and shrieks of the sufferers, and said that they could not on any account ask their royal master to let them out, as he was sleeping, and to disturb hira at such a tirae was a step they dared not to take. Ere many hours had elapsed, the unhappy victims of tins act of cruelty ceased to caU for aid, inasrauch as they were faint and dying. On the foUowing morning, when the door of the prison was uiUocked, only twenty-three sur-vivors were found, Suraja Dowlah was eventuaUy caUed upon to suffer for the dreadful cruelty of which he had been guilty. Near to the site on which this " Black Hole " stood an obehsk was erected, not only to mark the place, but, at the same time, to perpetuate a raemory of the event. The names of the -victiras were recorded on this raonuraent. In due course of tirae it was removed, on the ground that the exist ence of such a monument provoked angry and revengeful feelings in the breasts of the natives. 204 INDIA. The Asylum for Lunatics, which we visited under the auspices of the presiding physician, is large, and exceedingly well conducted. It contains ample accommodation for its unfortunate inraates, many of whom are taught trades of various kinds during their stay within its waUs. This insti tution is also provided with a garden and extensive pleasure grounds, which are kept in order by the lunatics. The great raajority of the inmates were natives of India. There were also some Armenians and Portuguese, and one Greek Chris tian, a native of Aleppo. The last-raentioned sufferer was for many years a resident at Canton, China, and a personal friend of ours. Losing his reason, he was sent by sorae kind friends to the Asylura at Calcutta. On seeing us he irame diately recognised us, and evinced much joy at our presence. St. Paul's Cathedral, which owes its origin to the un wearied zeal and great munificence of the late Bishop WUson, aided by a grant of 15,000/. from the Honourable East India Company, is by far the raost prorainent of all the places of worship of which Calcutta can boast. It is buUt, ff we mis take not, in the Gothic style of architecture, and is surmounted by a lofty spire, and five or six sraaUer ones. It contains raany raarble raonuraents in honour of prelates, statesmen, warriors, and other men of renown. Of these various raonu raents, however, there is not one half so iraposing, in our opinion, as that which perpetuates the raemory of Bishop Heber. Of the various educational estabUshments, the principal are the Madussa and Hindo Colleges, La Martiniere and Bishop's CoUege. La Martiniere is an institution in which twenty boys and thirty girls receive instruction. It was founded and endowed by a gentleman naraed Claude Marthi, He was formerly a private soldier in the French Army, and subsequently a major-general in the service of the Honourable East India Company. Bishop's CoUege, which was esta blished with the view of preparing natives and others for the Christian ministry, is a noble looking buUding. Indeed it surpasses in appearance some of the smaUer coUeges of the INDIA. 205 University of Cambridge. It consists of two principal buUdings and three wings. Of the principal buUdings, one is a very handsome and well-arranged chapel. On the walls of this house of prayer we observed two mural tablets, one of which is in honour of Bishop Heber, and the other in honour of Bishop Wilson. In the haU are two portraits, one of which represents Dr. Kay, whUe the other is a very faithful hkeness of Dr. MUl. The Ubrary is rich in works of the best authors, and is, we suppose, at the service of the stu dents. It is certainly a rich mine of knowledge, and one in which aU who thirst for learning must consider it a pri-vUege to dig. The large educational establishraent founded by the Eeverend Alexander Duff, D.D., who was the first apostle of Christian truth to India on the part of the Church of Scotland, we also visited. This extraordinary man was twice shipwrecked duiing his voyage to Calcutta. On the fiist of these occasions the vessel in which he saUed was dashed to pieces on a desolate island neax to the Cape of Good Hope, and the second catastiophe which he experienced occuned at the mouth of the Ganges. Until the anival of Di. Duff in India, the Christian education of the Bengalees had been confined to studies of a most eleraentaiy natuie. He had resolved, however, to raise the standard of education, and in this respect he was successful. He is represented as having said to his pupils, " My young friends, one great object of my coming hither is to convey to you all the European knowledge I possess myself — Uterary, scientific, and reUgious. You, too, have vast storehouses of knowledge, such as it is ; and I caimot but confess the humiUating fact, your ancestors were comparatively learned and civilised when ours were nothing better than ignorant, painted barbarians, who, somewhat like your Bengal tigers, ranged at large over the jungly forests, or, hke your Himalayan bears, roved wild over the raountains. But tiraes are changed now, and we, their descendants, have changed with the tiraes. We have now become civiUsed, and possess vast treasures of learning, which we reckon worthy of 206 INDIA, being coraraunicated to others, As there is a booTi^-the Vedas— which you reckon the fountain head of all your best knowledge ; so there is a book — the Bible — which we esteem the fountain head of aU our best knowledge." At this stage of his discourse he called upon them to contrast the two, and then to say which was the best calculated to promote the happiness of man. Of public monuments this city possesses sevexal. The fixst which attiacts attention is one erected in honoux of Six David Ochteilony, who was equaUy renowned as a states man and a waiiioi. It is Saiacenic in its style of aichi tectuie. This design was especiaUy adopted to maik the kind and generous disposition which Sii David tavaiiably raanifested towaids the foUoweis of Mahoraet. It is, we believe, in point of altitude, 165 feet, and its surarait is approached by a stone staiicase, consisting of 222 steps, The ascent is lewaided by a veiy extensive -view of the city and its environs. We also saw equestrian statues in honoui of Sir James Outram and Lord Hardinge, the one in honour of Sir James Outram being especially imposing as a work of art. A statue in honour of the late Lord Mayo, wha was barbar ously murdered in one of the Andaraan Islands, was recently unveUed by His Eoyal Highness the Prince of Wales. Again, on the banks of the river, and in very close proxir- mity to the fort, there, stands a raonuraental ghaut. It is neither more nor less than a grand piazza, on the banks of the Hooghly, and from it a broad flight of stone steps leads to the river. It is in memory of James Prinsep, Esq., who proved himself to be, during a long official residence in India, a man of erainent abUities. Near to this raonumental ghaut there stands a raonuraent to perpetuate the -victories of Maharajpore and Punraar. The metal of which it is formed was obtained from the hea-vy pieces of ordnance, which were captured by the British on these battle fields. The public gardens, where a band of music plays each evening, forms an excellent promenade. As they are situated INDIA. 207 on the banks of the river, and exposed to cool and refreshing breezes, they are places of great resort. The band winch plays more generally in these gardens is a subscription band, but it is, however, relieved occasionaUy by one of the mUitary bands. The Canning Gardens are not only most tastefuUy laid out, but also exceedingly well kept, and in the centre of them there is a smaU sheet of water, which imparts a great charm. There is, also, within these grounds a pagoda, which was brought from Burraah at the close of the last war which Great Britain waged with that country. These gardens are, we suppose, caUed the Canning Gardens, in consequence of a monument which they contain in honour of the late Lord Canning, who was, during a very moraentous period of India's history. Viceroy of that great country. The Botanical Gardens, which are situated on the opposite banks of the river, and at a distance of three miles frora the city of Calcutta, are, perhaps, amongst the finest gardens of the kind which the world contains. They were first formed, ff we mistake not, in 1743, and at the top of one of the principal walks by which they are intersected there stands a Uttle monuraent, surmounted by a bust, in honour of a gentleman who, if he was not their founder, cer tainly manifested a gxeat inteiest in theii development and futuie piogiess. They comprise several acies of land, which aie most taste fuUy laid out in shiubbeiies, giass plots, and paitenes. All the plants of India, so fai as botanists know, are assembled ia these grounds, Theie aie also nurabeiless othei speci mens of the vegetable kingdora. The raost leraaikable bota nical objects, howevei, to be seen heie are two banyan tiees, whieh are as giaceful in foira as they aie complex in ramifi cation. Of these two tiees one is especially fine. Its boughs, resembUng colurans rooted beneath, extend, as it were, in weU-shaded bowers aU round, and equal in circumference more than five hundred feet. The top is so thick with foliage that it is almost impossible for the rays of the sun to pencT 208 INDIA, trate it. There can be no doubt that it is one of the most reraarkable specimens of the Ficus indicus which India, or perhaps any other part of the tropical world, contains, " Branching so broad and long, that in the ground The bended twigs take root, and daughters grow About the mother tree — a pillar'd shade High over arch'd with echoing walks between. There oft the Indian herdsman, shunning heat. Shelters in cool, and tends his pasturing herds At loop-holes cut through thickest shade," Let us now conclude our remarks on these botanical gardens in the language of Bishop Heber : " A very beau tiful and weU-managed institution, enriched, besides the tallest trees and most beautiful plants of India, with a vast collection of exotics, chiefly coUected by Dr, WaUich himself in Nepaul, Pulo Penang, Sumatra, and Java, and increased by contributions frora the Cape, Brazil, and many different parts of Africa and America, as weU as Australia and the South Sea Islands, It is not only a curious, but a pictur esque and mo.st beautiful scene, and more perfectly answers Milton's idea of Paradise — except that it is on a fiat instead of a steep hiU — than anything which I ever saw." In addition to the gardens which we have just described, there is the esplanade which extends from Cho-wiinghee to the banks of the rivei. It consists of several acres of land, and lesembles one of the large parks of London, and in it people, both equestrians and pedestrians, to say nothing of those who ride in carriages, take airings. On repeated occasions we saw English gentlemen playing the game of polo in this park, which is entirely an eastern pastime. Each person taking part in the game raust be raounted on horse back, and arraed with a long hooked stick. Sides having been forraed, a hard baU is then thrown upon the ground, which the players endeavour to drive towards the goal of their respective opponents, AU who play this garae must of necessity be good horsemen, otherwise there is a danger of their sustaining very serious injuries. On leaving the Esplanade, we drove to the house in which INDIA. 209 Warren Hastings — a forraer Viceroy of India and one of the most reraarkable raen of his age — resided, and afterwards to the spot on which it is supposed he fought a duel with Sir PhiUp Francis. The streets and roads by which Calcutta is intersected are very weU macadaraised. During the dry season of the year they are weU watered, either by the use of ordiuary water carts, which for similar purposes are employed in Enghsh towns, or by means of water vessels of leather — the tanned skins of goats, Frora the last-raentioned vessels water is thrown over the roads as if frora the mouth of a hose. Each labourer who is engaged in this work is pro vided with one of these leather water vessels, which he carries under his arm as if it were the beUows of a bagpipe. He then at each step which he takes and by the pressure of his arm ejects the water from the vessel upon the dusty road. The water used for this purpose is generaUy obtained from the river by means of a steam-engine. As we are \vriting on the subject of water, we may also observe that suppUes of it for ordinary purposes are drawn from tanks, some of which are private reservoirs, whUe others are especiaUy set apart for the good of the public. Of these various tanks, public and private, Calcutta is provided with more than a thousand. The more pubUc thoroughfares are thronged not only by pedestrians, but also by gharries, drawn either by one or two horses, and by bullock carts, some of which are drawn by a pair, others by two pairs, and others by three pairs of strong oxen. Palanquins, each borne by four men, are occasionaUy seen in these busy streets. Conveyances of this nature are provided with sliding doors, and are five or six feet long and three and a haff feet high. The person who rides therein hes down as if he were in a bed. So great are the powers of endurance of the raen by whora these palanquins are borne, that they can travel at the rate of four miles an houx. As palanquins aie painted black they reminded us, as they had previously xerainded Ida Pfeiffer, of so many funeral p 210 INDIA. biers on which corpses are conveyed to the grave, or of stretchers on which sick men are removed from their homes to hospitals. As we were passing to and fro in these streets in search of objects of interest and pleasure, we were much struck with the great number of ravens which we saw. These birds differ frora those we observed in other eastern lands, as they have grey necks. They, together with several adjutants, which we also saw, and jackals which we frequently heard, form excel lent scavengers. The Hindoos dispose of their dead by cremation, and, in order to see this ceremony, we -visited one of the buming ghauts. The corpse which was brought to be burned at the time of our visit was without other covering than a white cloth, which was bound round the loins. The corpse, on being placed on the funeral pyre, was covered with fag gots, and the nearest kinsman of the deceased then set them on fire, taking care that the fire should, in the first instance, be appUed to the raouth of the corpse. This person, accom panied by a Brahrain, then walked three tiraes round the burning pyre, the Brahrain repeating at each step a precom- posed prayer. The human ashes, so soon as they had become cool, were gathered together and cast into the Ganges. At another burning ghaut which we -visited we were in the very act of walking unconsciously over a dead body, when for timately we were suddenly caUed upon to halt by a Hindoo, who was ia charge of the ghaut. At the tirae of our visit it was very dark, the night having corae on. The corpse, which only a few minutes before our arrival had been brought to the funeral pyre for cremation, had been cast upon the ground, and when the Ught was brought we were greatly horrified to see it lying at our feet. The KaUghaut, which is situated in the northem suburb of Calcutta, is a very small and insignificant Hindoo temple in honour of KaU, or Mata, or Devi, a Hindoo goddess. During our visit to this shrine, the threshold of which we were not suffered to cross, several Hindoos came to pray, INDIA, 211 some of whora offered live goats in sacrifice. The head of each these aniraals having been affixed between two short upright pUlars of wood, a man, by means of a sharp sciraitar, quickly severed it frora the body. Two young buffaloes, whUst we stood there, were also, at the desire of one votary, simUarly offered. The carcases of goats and buffaloes thus slaughtered are never eaten by the Hindoos, On the con trary, they are sold to Mohammedans, by whora such flesh is greatly prized. Cows, being sacred aniraals in the estiraation of Hindoos, are never offered in sacrifice. The bloody sacrifices to which we have just refened are presented almost exclusively by Hindoos, who are of the Saiva sect. They maintain that the god Siva delights not only in drinking blood, but also in decorating his body with the skuUs of his victims. It is, however, his wife. Kali, or Mata, or Devi, who is more particularly honoured in this singular maimer. Indeed at one period infants were sacrificed on or before her altars, and it is also raaintained that it was in obedience to her commands and example that Sutteeism — that is a -widow dying upon the funeral pyre of her husband — was made an act of devotion. In dismissing the Kali ghaut from further consideration, we raay state that, in the opinion of sorae persons, it was from this place Calcutta derived its name. Near to this temple there stands a large stone linga, which is covered by a domed roof, made to rest on elaborately carved pUlars of granite. In 1802, the British Government sent a deputation to the KaUghaut, in order to present an offering to Kali, Mr, Ward, who was a raissionary in Calcutta at that tirae, recorded in his journal the foUowing sentences bearing on that raatter : — " Last week a deputation frora the Govemraent went in pro cession to KaUghaut, and raade a thank ofiering to the god dess ofthe Hindoos in the narae of the Corapany for the success which the English have lately obtained in the country. Five thousand rupees were offered. Several thou sand natives witnessed the English presenting their offerings P 2 212 INDIA. to this idol. We have been rauch grieved at this Act, in which the natives exult over us." A Mohararaedan raosque, which is situated at no great distance frora the KaUghaut, next came under our notice. It is a very neat edifice, ornaraented with several domes, and surmounts a broad stone dais. In the centre of the court yard of this mosque there is a large raised platforra of stone and brick-work, consisting of vaults, in which a few Moham medans are buried. In one of these tombs rest the remains of Ghoolam Mahomet, a son of the faraous Tippoo Sahib. A.t the end of this same court-yard there is a neat water tank or pond in which, previous to entering the mosque to pray, Mohararaedans wash their feet and hands, as an act of ablu tion. During our stay at Calcutta, we witnessed the celebration of two or three Hindoo festivals, the first of which had reference to au eclipse of the sun, and on which occasion there was much holiday raaking. The most singular ceremony, however, attending the celebration of this festival was one which we saw when standing on the banks of the Hooghly, where thousands of persons had assembled. Having first besmeared their bodies with oU of mustard-seed, they waded into the river, and having cast flowers and sweetmeats, as eucharistical offerings, into the water, they bathed in the stream. These ablutionary services having been performed, they withdrew from the river, each carrying a small vessel fiUed with the sacred waters. Access is obtained to the river water by ghauts or flights of broad steps elaborately and solidly constructed of stone. And here we may raention that upon the ghauts are passed the busiest and happiest hours of every Hindoo's day. Bathing, dressing, praying, preaching, lounging, gossiping, or sleeping there will he be found. Escaping from the dirty, unwholesome, and confined streets, it is a luxury for him to sit upon the open steps and taste the fresh air of the river ; so that on the ghauts are concen trated the pastimes of the idler, the duties of the devout, and much of the necessary intercourse of business. INDIA. 213 We were, also, present at the celebration of the festival caUed HoU or Hutashani. This season of rejoicing, which is observed in honour of Krishna's sportive swinging, is sorae times terraed Dola or Dolapatra, or the swinging festival. It has a reference, so says Sir WUUara Jones, to the vernal equinox, and is celebrated raore or less during a period of fifteen days. That is, it begins on the first, and ends on the fifteenth day of the moon of Phalgun. A few of the leading ceremonies of this singular festival may be described as foUows : — Votaries not only besprinkle the idol of Krishna with powder of a red colour, but, also, one another. This powder is termed gulat, and consists either of barley- meal or rice-flour, or the trapa natans stained with sapan wood. Devotees, too, greatly excited by wine, dance with one another, in commemoration of Krishna's dance with the Gopis or shepherdesses. During this fete, remarks of a raost insulting nature are addressed by men to women, whUe with the -view of provoking merriraent, people play the fool with each other, as Englishraen do on the flrst day of April. At the close of this festival, a pUe is Ughted in every -viUage, and upon it a wheaten cake, caUed PoU, is placed. This cake is, ff we mistake not, regarded in the light of a first offering. It was our pri-vUege to attend certain ceremonies which are observed at the celebration of the Hindoo New Year. This event, which takes place on the new moon first of Chaitra Shuda is a festival of no ordinary importance. On the morning of this day each Hindoo, having besmeared his body with oU, takes a warm bath, and before his house, too, he unfurls a flag, on the top of the pole of which he has pre-viously placed a copper vessel. This fiag represents the banner of Indra, the king of the gods. It is, on this same day, that a flag is supposed to be unfurled by the minor deities in honour of hira whora they regard as their lord and master. Thus aU that is done by the Hindoos on this day is simply regarded by thera as a representation of what takes place, at the same time, in heaven. The ceremonies to which we have refened having been accomplished, the leaves of a tree, which 214 INDIA. is technically named MeUa Azadiracta, are eaten with the -view of promoting health. The reason why the leaves of this tree are prefened is owing to the fact that the Hindoos regard it as an off-shoot of the ambrosia of the gods. The alma nack for the new year is, also, held in great reverence on this day, and it is not too much to assert that it is esteemed as an object of adoration. Great attention is, also, given to the Jyotishis, who now come forward and descant freely upon the various predictions of the almanack. Thus, they foretell whether or not there -wUl be an abundance or a scarcity of rain, whether or not there wiU be more than an ordiiiary degree of heat or cold, and again, whether or not the country or districts of the country wUl be disturbed either by insur rectionary moveraents, or by the depredatory acts of bandits. Each person tries at this festival, through the instru mentaUty of the Jyostishis, to draw aside the veU of futurity in order to learn what degree of good or bad fortune the new year may have in store for him. The services of these -wise men — the Jyotishis — are, of course, fuUy rewaxded by pecu niary gifts. The Guras and Brahmins, too, on this the com mencement of a new yeai, are the recipients of alms at the hands of this highly supeistitious people. This festival is xegaided as a most auspicious season in which to entei upon any iraportant duty. Thus, buildeis, who have been engaged to erect houses, oi tradesmen oi mexchants who have agieed to entei into business, generaUy commence theii piimaiy opeiations at this time. Let us now bring oui lemaiks on this fSte to a close by stating that rauch eating and diinking are featuies of it. Nautch-gixls axe, also, caUed into xequisi- tion, and, foi the arausement of the bystandeis ox spectatois, vigoxously dance to the sound of lude musical instraments. In the peifoimance of each dance, they assume a variety of attitudes a featuie which, e-vidently, in the estimation of the beholdexs, xendeis the dance infinitely more attractive than it would otheiwise prove. A festival called Eam-na-vami was also celebiated at the time of oux visit to Calcutta. It is so called in honoui of INDIA. 215 Earn, the seventh avatar of Vishnu and Navarni, and is cele brated from the first to the ninth day of Chaitra Shudh. The chief object of tlus seventh incarnation of Vishnu, who was born at Ayodhya or Oudh B.C. 1400 years, was to accomplish the destruction of Eawan, who was regarded as the ten-headed tyrant of the island of Ceylon. This great work Eam accom phshed by the aid of Hunuman, the king of apes. As a pre- hmiaary step in the celebration of this festival, the waUs of the teraple, in honour of Eama, are whitewashed, and the idol of the deity (for in each of these temples there is an image of the god), is then decorated with various ornaments, sorae of wluch are very costly. The teraples are rendered brilUant by many lamps, and during each evening throughout the festival portions of the legendary history of Eama are read aloud in the hearing of aU who are asserabled within the waUs of the temple, and at night sermons dwelUng on the moral -virtues and heroic actions of Eama are preached by the " Haridas." Eed powder similar in aU respects to that which we have previously described, is sprinkled by the votaries upon the idol and upon each other. In not a few of Earaa's teraples during eight days of this joyous season, food of a sumptuous kind is suppUed to Brahmins. The last day of the ceremony is especiaUy regarded as the one on which Eama becarae in carnate, and in coramemoration of this event raany of the Hindoos observe a strict fast. On arising in the raorning, ha-ving carefuUy performed more than ordinary rites of ablu tion, and ha-ving attUed themselves in costly robes, they re pair to the temples of Earaa, in order to hear the Haridas discourse on the birth and incarnation of Eama. This sermon is continued untU noon, at which hour, a small, weU-dressed, and gaUy-decorated idol of Eama is brought into the temple, and held up as an object deserving of profound reverence and adoration at the hands of all raen. This portable idol having been put into a cradle especiaUy set apart for the purpose, aU who are present prostrate theraselves on the floor and pay it homage. This last-mentioned act of devotion is attended, on the part of the votaries, with great rejoicings and loud accla- 216 INDIA. mations of praise, and they besprinkle one another with red powder, and then, it being past meridian, retire to their homes. In the evening, however, they once more return to the teraple to observe further acts of devotion. We shaU now conclude our remarks on Calcutta in very few words. It owes its origin, does this great eastern metro polis, to Governor Charnock, who, for certain reasons, deemed it advisable to remove the factory of the Honourable East India Corapany frora the town of Hooghly to the opposite side of the river. It was very much in this wise, Azim Odshaum, who was the son of Aurungzebe, and Soubadar of Bengal, sold in the year 1698 to the English, in recognition of a present made by thera to hira, the zeraindarships of three villages, which were respectively named Govindpore, Chutanutty, and Calcutta, In the last-mentioned village — which is said to have derived its name from the Kalighaut, a place respecting which, on a preceding page, we have writ ten — they built Fort WUUam, and in due course of time, this viUage not only assumed the dimensions of a large city, but superseded Madras, and became the capital of the Empire of India. Having seen nearly all the objects of interest of which Calcutta can boast, we proceeded to Barrackpore, and in spected the palace of the Viceroy, which stands in a very extensive and weU-wooded park. At one end of these weU- kept domains — for they consist of 250 EngUsh acres — there is a menagerie, in which is contained several specimens of natural history, such as lions, tigers, leopards, bears, hyaenas, jackals, a white fox, wUd cats, sloths, and birds. The lions and tigers are very large, A day or two before our visit to this place one of the largest aniraals of the menagerie — a tigress — suddenly died, and on a post mortem exaraination being held, it was discovered that this poor brute had died frora the efiects of a diseased liver. This menagerie, which at one tirae was very extensive, was, in a great measure, broken up during the vice-royalty of Lord WiUiam Bentinck, Eetracing our steps through the park, towards the palace. INDIA. 217 we came to the tomb of Lady Canning, which is certainly an object of great interest, not simply on account of its architectural beauty, but also for the reason that here rest the remains of one who, in all respects, was an ornament to her sex. Not far from the palace are the cantonraents, in which are quartered native and European troops. The barracks are not only weU constructed, but coraraodious, and near to thera are the bungalows or lodges, in which the officers reside. It was at Barrackpore that the mutiny, which, for a time, so greatly disturbed the peace of India, first showed itself. An ofificer of the 34th Native Infantry was fired upon by a Sepoy near to the main guard, and not a soldier was loyal enough to go to his rescue. We now crossed the Hooghly, in a sraaU ferryboat, to visit the neighbouring town of Serampore. It is as Heber has described it, " a handsome place, kept beautifully clean, and looking raore Uke a European town than Calcutta or any of its neighbouring cantonments." One of the first places which we -visited was the Court House. We went thither, not on account of any objects of interest which it possesses, but for the reason that, during the period Seram pore was a dependency of the Danish Crown, it was the residence of the Danish governors. The temple of Jugger nauth next demanded our attention, and on arri-ving at the door of this fane, we observed a hideous idol of Juggernauth. It was without arms, and was seated on a very high throne or pedestal. The reason why this idol, when seated in this temple, is without arms, is o-wing to the fact that these mera bers of the body are raade of sUver, and a fear being enter tained that they raight be stolen were they left in the temple, they are removed, and deposited elsewhere under lock and key. When the idol, however, is about to be placed in his car, and drawn in procession through the streets, it is first of all placed on a stone dais or platform, which is near to the temple, and then the silver arms are attached to its sides. The car in which this vain god rides resembles a lofty pavi- 218 INDIA. Uon of carved wood, and on its sides are representations of foreigners. To sorae of these cars are aflixed obscene figures. The festival in honour of Juggernauth takes place, if we rais take not, in the month of March, after the sun has entered Aries, when hundreds of men, women, and chUdren draw his car through the streets by means of ropes. On the platform of the car are stationed Brahmins, who, as the procession moves onwards, not only tell in a monotone voice, stories of a very obscene nature, but perform, at the same time, very foul gestures. Forraerly, wretched fanatics sacrificed theraselves in honour of this cursed idol. This spUit of de votion they manifested by thro-sving theraselves on the ground before the roUing wheels of the car, which of course crushed them to death. Such fanatical acts, however, have been for bidden in future by the British Government. The principal teraple in honour of Juggernauth stands in a town of the sarae name, which is situated in the district of Cuttack, a political division of the presidency of Bengal. Dr. Claudius Buchanan gives the foUowing interesting account of the manner in which this annual festival was observed in the year 1806 : — " The idol caUed Juggernauth has been considered as the Moloch of the present age ; and he is justly so named, for the sacrifices offered up to hira by self-devoteraent are not less criminal, perhaps not less numerous, than those recorded of the Moloch of Canaan. Two other idols accompany Jugger nauth, namely, Bolovam and Shubudra, his brother and sister, for there are three deities worshipped here. They receive equal adoration, and sit on thrones of nearly equal height. The temple is a stupendous fabric, truly commensurate with the extensive sway of the horrid king. On the 18th June, 1806, 1 witnessed a scene which I shall never forget. It was the great day of the feast, and at twelve o'clock the Moloch of Hindostan was brought out of his temple, amid the accla- raations of hundreds of thousands of his worshippers. When the idol was placed upon his throne, a shout was raised by the multitude, such as I had never heard before. It con- INDIA. 219 tinued audible for a few minutes, and then gradually died away. After a short interval of sUence, a murraur was heard at a distance ; aU eyes were turned to the place, and behold a grove advancing. A body of men, having green branches or palms in their hands, approached with great celerity. The people opened a way for them, and when they had corae up to the throne they feU down before him that sat thereon, and worshipped. And the multitude again sent forth a voice Uke the sound of a great thunder. But the voices I now heard were not those of melody or of joyful acclamation. Their number indeed brought to my mind the countless multitude of the Eevelation, but theU- voices gave no tuneful hosanna or haUelujah; it was rather a yell of approbation. The throne of the idol was placed on a stupendous car, about 60 feet in height, resting on wheels which indented the ground deeply, as they tm-ned slowly under the ponderous machine. Attached to it weie six cables, by which the people drew it along. Upon the tower were the priests and sateUites of the idol, surrounding his throne. The idol is a block of wood, having a frightful visage painted black, with a distended mouth of a bloody colour; his arras are of gold, and he is dressed in gorgeous apparel. The other two idols are of a white and yeUow colour. Five elephants preceded the three towers, bearing lofty flags, dressed in crirason caparisons, and having bells hanging thereto, which sounded musically as they moved, I went on in the procession, close by the tower of Moloch, which, as it was drawn with diffi culty, grated on its many wheels harsh as thunder. After the tower had proceeded some way, a pUgxira announced that he was ready to offer himseU a sacrifice to the idol. He laid himself down in the road before the tower, as it was mo-ving along, lying on his face with his arras stretched forward. The raultitude passed round hira, leaving the space clear, and he was crushed to death by the wheels of the tower, A shout of joy was raised to the god, and the people threw co-svries or sraaU money on the body of the victim, in appro bation of the deed. He was left to view a considerable time. 220 INDIA, and was then carried by the hurries to the Golgotha, A woman next devoted herself to the idol. She laid herself down in the road, in an oblique direction, so that the wheels did not kill her instantaneously, as is generaUy the case, but she died in a few hours. Next raorning, as I passed the ' Place of Skulls,' nothing remained of her but her bones. And this, thought I, is the worship of the Brahmins of Hin dostan, and their worship in its sublimest degree. What, then, shaU we think of their private manners and their moral principles ? For^it is equally true of India as of Europe — ff you would know the state of the people, look at the state of the temple. The idolatrous processions continue for some days longer, but my spirits are so exhausted by the constant view of these enormities, that I raean to hasten away from Juggernauth sooner than I first intended. As to the number of worshippers assembled here at this time, no accurate calcu lation can be raade. The natives themselves, when speaking of the number at particular festivals, usuaUy say that a lac of people (100,000) would not be missed, I asked a Brahmin how many he supposed were present at the raost numerous festival he had ever witnessed. How can I teU, said he, how many grains there are in a handful of sand ! " The Baptist College at Serampore is a very grand aud extensive building, and consists in particular of a large and ¦ valuable library, spacious lecture haUs and school-xooms, and a vast public hall. Its uppei looras axe approached by a broad staircase of bronze. This noble institution, which is a blessing to the district in which it stands, was founded by a most estimable and God-fearing person named WiUiam Carey, This man, who raay certainly be regarded as the founder of missions in Bengal, was originaUy a shoemaker in England, and having acquired knowledge, he became a schoolmaster, and eventuaUy the pastor of a smaU congregation of Baptists. WhUe giving instruction to his pupils in geography, he be came animated with a desire of preaching the gospel to the heathen. With the view, therefore, of carrying out a design so noble, he, in the year 1792, preached a sermon INDIA. 221 on this subject before an asserably of Baptist rainisters, in which he caUed upon his hearers firstly to expect great things frora God, and secondly to atterapt great things for God. Thus the Baptist Missionary Society was estabUshed and Carey, as an apostle of the glad tidings of salvation, was ordered to proceed to Bengal. On arri-ving in India, he at once applied himself to the study of the language, and so great was the proficiency which he attained, that he was enabled to proclaim to those to whom he was sent, the unsearchable riches of the Lord Jesus Christ. The funds, however, which were raised in England in support of the mission, proving inadequate, he was obUged to become, for a time, an Indigo planter. About this time two missionaries, Joshua Marshman and WUUam Ward, were sent out as his fellow labourers in the propagation of the gospel. The British Government, however, having decided that Christianity should not be preached in those districts of Bengal which belonged to Great Britain, Carey and his companions had recourse to Serampore (which was then, as we have already stated, a dependency of the Danish crown), where they were not only kindly received by Colonel Bie, the Danish governor, but also permitted to preach. This exceUent officer and good Christian died on the 18th of May, 1805, at the advanced age of seventy-five years, having adrainistered the affairs of the settlement of Serampore during a period of forty years and up-wards. He was gi-eatly beloved by the natives, who crowded to his funeral, exclaiming, never shaU we see such a master again. We feel that we cannot sufficiently reverence the meraory of this great man, for receiving under his protection three English missionaries when they were refused a horae, yea, a footing, in those parts of Bengal, which were under the sceptre of Great Britain. Carey having thus been graciously received at Serampore entered at once upon the all-important work of translating the New Testaraent into the language of Bengal The year 1801 saw the completion of this great undertaking, and not 222 INDIA. long afterwards, the Old Testament Scriptures were rendered by biTTi into the same tongue. He did not, however, rest satisfied with the completion of these labours, but proceeded to furtush the Bengalese with a version of the New Testament in Sanscrit, Shortly after this, so renowned did Carey be come as an oriental scholar, that Lord WeUesley appointed him to one of the professorial chairs in the CoUege at Fort WiUiam, Marshman established boarding-schools, which yielded, annually, a large income, whUe Ward, who was a printer, realised considerable sums of money by the press. These three Ulustrious missionaries, however, devoted the whole of their earnings in providing copies of the Scriptures, in paying the salaries of native preachers, and in defraying the expenses of the many schools which they had estabUshed, In little more than twenty years, they had succeeded in translating the Old Testament Scriptures into six Indian lan guages, while those of the New Testament were made kno-wu in not less than fourteen languages. In a Uteiaiy laboui so great as this, they weie, of couise, assisted by leamed natives flora various parts of the East. Carey, aftei a Ufe of gieat usefiUness and acti-vity in his Mastei's seivice, died in India, No pubUc raonument is requiied to perpetuate his memoxy, fox his name -wUl Uve foi evex. In the Baptist CoUege of which he was the foundei, the chaii in which he used to sit and the cratches which latteily he was obUged to use in oidei to support his tottering steps, are stUl carefuUy preserved. In the Baptist Chapel, which is situated at no great distance from the Col lege, OUI attention was directed to the pulpit from which he was accustomed to deUvei his discourses to attentive native audiences. At the base of this pulpit there is a large font in which, amongst raany others, the faraous General Havelock was baptized by iraraersion. The cemetery at Serampore is exceedingly weU kept. Araongst other plants and shrabs which grow therein are six, mahogany trees, which were planted by Carey, and which are as a raatter of course, raost carefully preserved. This ceme- INDIA. 223 texy was puichased it appeaxs on the 3rd of October, 1803. Four days after its purchase, Gokool, who had been baptized some months before, died after a short iUness. He was the first Christian buried here. His reraains were borne to the grave resting on the shoulders of Mr. Marshara, Mr. FeUx Carey, Bhyrub, a baptised Brahrain, and Peeroo, a baptised Mohararaedan. As they walked in procession through the streets of Serarapore, they sung a Bengalee hymn, the purport of which was salvation througii the death of Christ. In this same cemetery rest the remains of Carey. Benares, the sacred city of the Hindoos, was the place of interest to which we next directed our course. On arriving at the Eajghat station we were most kindly received and welcomed by Mr. Errington of the Baptist Missionary Society. In the company of this gentleman we crossed the Eiver Ganges by a bridge of boats, and, after traveUing by carriage a dis tance of four English miles, we reached Sekrole, for such is the name by which the European quarter of the city of Benares is named. AUghting from the carriage we entered Mr. Errington's house, where during our sojourn at Benares, we partook of great hospitality. This city is evidently one of great antiquity. By the Hindoos it is said to be coeval with the birth of Hinduism. Frequent references are made to it in ancient Sanskrit litera ture. It was originally called Kasi, and soraetiraes Kasika, and not unfrequently Ksethra. This last narae is said to have been derived from Kshetra Briddha, who was first rajah of Kasi, and who is supposed to have reigned one thousand sis hundred years before the Christian era. It was subju gated in the year 1193, by a Mohammedan force under the command of Mohamraed, Sultan of Ghor, in Afghanistan. It was eventuaUy overrun and taken by Baber. This con queror, however, lost it in the year 1529. It feU to the lot of the Nawab Vizier of Oude in the year 1760, that is, on the breaking up of the Empire of Delhi. And in the year 1775 it was ceded by that potentate to the Honourable East India Company. 224 INDIA, On the morning iramediately foUowing our anival we left Sekrole, the European quarter of the city, and visited Benares, properly so caUed, The streets of this city are very sinuous and narrow, and the ground over which they pass is far below the basement storey of the houses. The dweUing- houses and shops forming the streets are, with a few excep tions, constructed of stone. They are very high, have smaU windows, and, as a general rule, are approached by arched passages. This is a wise arrangeraent, as not only strong light, which is almost unendurable in a hot country, but heat and the inquisitive glances of strangexs are thereby excluded. The front walls of the houses are in some instances of a dark red colour, while in othex cases they axe adomed with representations in bright colouis eithei of gods, raen, floweis, 01 animals. During the gxeat heat of sumraei many of the inhabitants pass the nights on the tops of theii houses. Theie are elected, at frequent inteivals along the banks of the livei, magnificent ghauts, each of which consists of a staiicase of Jowad fieestone steps. At the top of these stair cases there stands, in many instances, as a sheltex fxom the sun, a highly ornaraented poitieo. It is by these ghauts that devotees and otheis obtain access to the livei — the sacred xivex — the Eivex Ganges. Of these ghauts the Ugneswui, Ghoosla, Madhoiay, Punchgunga, Mauikuinika, Biukraa, Shiidui, and Dusas- wuraedh aie peihaps the most imposing — and heie we may mention that, as we weie standing at the foot of the bioad steps of the Madhoiay Ghaut, we saw a pooi woman who, being sick unto death, had been bxought by hex friends to die on the banks and within sight of the Ganges, This pool woman, who was dying of cholera, lay veiy neai to the watei's edge, and aiound hei weie assembled foui oi five sympathizing relations. This singulai custora of placing dying peisons on the banks of the Ganges, in oidei that they may there diaw theix last bieath, arises from the fact that the Hindoos be lieve that all who die in such a sacxed place are sure to liSiUiA, 225 inherit unspeakable bUss, Foiraeily it was custoraaiy foi Hindoos to place particles of the clay and diops of the watei of the Ganges in the raouths of their djdng relatives ; but these last-mentioned fooUsh practices have, for some years past, been strictly prohibited by the British Government. At the various ghauts with which the banks of the G*nges at Benares are adorned, faldrs or Hindoo ascetics, many of whom, in regard to self-mortification and severity of life almost equal Simon Stylites, station themselves with the view of exciting the syrapathy of aU who pass that way and of recei-ving daUy bread at their hands. These fakirs besmear themselves with ashes, or raud, or cow-dung, or with filth of other kinds, to such a degree as to render thera selves, without exception, the raost disgusting creatures imaginable. To wash in the Ganges is regarded by the Brahrains as an act which cannot fail to procure for hira who performs such an ablution inestimable blessings. The fakUs to whom we have just refened frequent the ghauts in large numbers on sacred days, in order to obtain alms from the many hundreds of devotees or pilgrims who, on such occasions, resort to the Ganges in order to bathe in its soul-cleansing and sin-forgiv ing waters. And here let us not forget to observe that there are also at Benares, as is the case at Calcutta, sorae ghauts which are especiaUy set apart for the burning of corpses. It was in these ghauts, too, that widows were at one time accustomed to throw theraselves on the funeral pyres of their husbands, choosing not to survive those with whora they had Uved in the bonds of matriraony. This singular and foolish practice was also eventually forbidden by the British Governraent. Benares contains raany temples in honour of Hindoo deities. The divinity, however, which is here more especi aUy adored is Siva or Mahadeo— the creative energy. Ac cording to WUson this sacred city is the peculiar seat of this form of worship ; the principal deity, Visweswara, is a Unga, and most of the chief objects of the pilgriraage are similar 226 INDIA. blocks of stone. Particular divisions of the pUgrimage direct visiting forty-seven Ungas, aU of pre-eminent sanctity ; but there are hundreds of inferior note stUl worshipped, and thou sands whose fame and fashion have passed away. Thus the Unga or ithyphaUic erablem is generaUy represented in aU the temples. Amongst the various fanes which we -visited we may men tion the temples of Bhaironath, Dandpan, Bisheswar, and Durga. The god of the first-mentioned shrine is regarded as a deified magistrate of the city of Benares and its en-virons, whose duty consists in keeping the city free from evU spirits. On the outer wall by which the quadrangle of this temple is enclosed are paintings, in one of which Bhaironath, attended by a dog, on which he was accustomed to ride, is supposed to be faithfully delineated. Dogs therefore are regarded, in this temple, as holy animals. Indeed, this is the only fane at Benares in which they are permitted to enter, and smaU images of them, made of sugar, are presented by votaries to Bhaironath as offerings of an acceptable nature. Offerings of wine, too, are presented to this deity. On each side of the porch of this temple a priest sits and waves a plmne con sisting of peacocks' feathers over the head of each person who enters the fane, on the supposition that by this act he dis pels frora their presence evils of various lands. The principal haU of the temple is very smaU, and in it there stands a copper shrUie, which is the resting place of the god. The idol, which has foux hands, consists of sculptured stone, excepting the face, which is formed of silver. Near to the shrine a priest is stationed, whose chief duty is to besmear the fore heads of the votaries with whitish-coloured powder. The temple is adorned by a lofty spire, which is elaborately carved and decorated. The teraple of Dandpan derives its name from danda, a staff or stick, which it contains, and which is supposed to be the property of Bhaironath. It is regarded as the weapon by which, as magistrate of the city, he keeps those, who would otherwise be lawless, in a state of peace and sobriety, Im- INDIA. 227 mediately in front of this baton of authority, which is raade of stone, there are suspended three bells. Near to these bells, which are regarded as necessary appendages to a heathen temple, a priest sits, and, armed with a plume of peacocks' feathers, in the name of Dandpan, beats in a gentle manner, each votary who coraes to worship. By this priestly act it is supposed that the votary is pardoned of aU offences against law and order of which he raay have been guilty. In this temple is situated the celebrated Well of Fate. At noon the rays of the sun, passing through an aperture in the waUs of the buUd ing, faU upon the waters of the weU, and at this hour each person who wishes to ascertain what blessings or curses the future has in store for hira, visits it. Should he discover on looking into the weU that his shadow is reflected on the waiters, he concludes that all is well, but should he fail in this respect he concludes that he wiU die within a few months. The temple in honour of the god Bisheswar or Siva, or Mahadeo, is perhaps raore generaUy crowded by votaries than any other temple which Benares contains. This god or demon of lust, as he is called by Tieffenthaler, is the ruUng god of Benares, and is represented in the temple not by an idol in the form of a man, but by a conical stone or linga. He is supposed to be supreme over all other deities, and to exercise a presiding watchfulness over the inhabitants of the sacred city of Benares. In directing the affairs of men, he is said to be assisted by Bhaironath, of whora, as the deified magistrate of Benares, we have alreadj' written, and each matter of iraportance is submitted to him in due form, by the latter. Bisheswar or Siva is supposed to be very peremptory in exacting homage at the hands of his subjects, and being above all gods, is to be worshipped in the first instance. Thus, as we have already intimated, hundreds of votaries in all ranks and conditions of life, daily throng the courts of his temple, and bring offerings to his shrine. As an act of ex treme devotion, they repeatedly bathe the stone linga by Q 2 228 INDIA; which he is represented, with copious supplies of water from the Ganges, and decorate it with flowers. Offerings either of sugar, rice, or ghee are also presented to this indecent re presentation of a heathen deity. The building is adomed by a spire, a dorae, and a tower, and as the two latter are covered with plates of copper overlaid with gold leaf, they present a most glittering appearance. The expense of gilding these copper tiles was defrayed by the late Maharajah Eun jeet Singh of Lahore. We now repaired to a neighbouring weU, which is called the WeU of Knowledge, and in which, as the superstitious natives beUeve, the god Siva resides. Tradition says, " that »nce on a time, no rain feU in Benares for the space of twelve years, and that in consequence great distress was experienced by the inhabitants. In order to pro-vide water for the people, and so to relieve thera from the terrible calamity which had befaUen thera, a Rishi, one of the raythical beings not exactly di-vine, and certainly not mortal, who, to the number of many thousands, are reverenced by the Hindoos — gxasping the trident of Siva, dug up the earth at this spot, and forthwith there issued from beneath a copious supply of water. Siva, on becoming acquainted with the circumstance, promised to take up his abode in the weU, and to reside there for ever. It is stated, moreover, that, on occasion of the destruction of the old temple of Bisheswar, a priest took the idol of the teraple and threw it down for safety." This weU is visited by thousands of votaries who cast therein either water of the Ganges or flowers, or other offerings of an eucharistical nature. The smeU which arises from these offerings when in a state of putrefaction, is so intolerable as almost to render gazing upon the water of the well a matter of impossibility. The stone colonnade by which this well is enclosed, was erected a.d. 1828, as an act of religious merit by " Sri Maut Baija Bai," widow of Sri Maut Dowlat Eao Sindhia, Bahadoor of Gwalior. The next object of attraction in the temple of Bisheswar, is a representation, sculptured in statuary of granite, of the INDIA. 229 sacred buU Nandi, which is seven feet high. It was the gift of the Eajah of NepaiU, and is dedicated to the service of the god Siva, as according to tradition, it was on the back of the buU Nandi that Siva was accustomed to ride. Moreover, it was this same bull, winch he sent to earth in the shape of the sage Basava to propound and encourage the worship of the Unga. At the tirae of our visit to this temple, there were three or four sacred buUs standing in one of the cor ridors. They were perfectly tarae, and were receiving food at the hands of many votaries. We also observed two similar ammals rambUng uncontroUed and unmolested through the streets, whUe one which was caparisoned with gay trappings, was being led by a devotee. These bulls were one and aU very fat, a fact not at aU surprising, as food is abundantly and gratuitously supplied to such animals by the Hindoos. The Manikarnika WeU, so greatly celebrated in Hindoo mythology, is also one of the great sights of Benares. It is visited annuaUy by hundreds of penitent devotees, who have been taught to regard the waters which it contains, as capable of washing away aU sin. This sacred weU, supposed to have been formed by Vishnu, is approached, on each of its four sides, by fhghts of stone steps. The steps which constitute the base of each of these flights of stairs, are supposed to be sohd, and to have been placed in their present position by Vishnu, On sixteen sraaU altars, which are near to the weU, devotees ha-ving presented offerings to their ancestors, descend into the weU, and, whUe repeating prayers, wash the upper parts of their bodies with the water which it contains. As the water is very stagnant, the sraell which arises frora it when disturbed is alraost too much for the olfactory nerves. Of the origin of tlUs weU, the following account is con tamed in the Kasi-khanda. " The god Vishnu dug this well with his discus, and in Ueu of water fiUed it with the perspira tion of his own body, and gave it the name of Chakra-push- karini He then proceeded to its north side, and began to prac tise asceticism. In the raeantirae, the god Mahadeva arrived, and, looking into the well, beheld m it the beauty of a hun- 230 INDIA, dred miUions of suns, -with which he was so enraptured, that he at once broke out into low praises of Vishnu, and in his joy declared that whatever gift -he might ask of hira he would grant. Gratified at the offer, Vishnu replied that his request was, that Mahadeva should always reside with hira, Maha deva hearing this, felt greatly flattered by it, and his body shook with delight. From the violence of the motion an ear ring, caUed Manikamaka, feU from his ear into the weU. From this cUcumstance, Mahadeva gave the weU the name of Manikarnika, Among the epithets applied to it are those of Muktikshetxa, ' seat of liberty,' and Pumasubhakaian, ' com plete souice of felicity.' Mahadeva fuithei decieed that it should be the chief and the most efficacious among places of pUgrimages." Mi. James Piinsep, howevei, in his " Views of Benaies," gives a soraewhat diffeient account of the oiigin of this weU. He says, " Aftei Kashi had been created by the united wUl of Iswui and Paibati, the two incoipoiated eneigies of the foiraless and quaUty-less Bxuhra, the active paix deteirained to give theii paiadise the benefit of an in habitant, and Pooiooshotama (the supxeme male, Vishnoo) became raanifest. Shiva gave him instractions how to be have hiraself, and left hira to his o-wn meditations ; thexe- upon, as a fixst exploit, with his chakia oi discus he dug the tank denominated, fiora its oxigin, the Chaki-pushkami. He then engaged in the usual couise of austerity, at the sight of which Shiva shook his head in astonishraent, and one of his eanings fell; whence the name of the ghat Manikarnika (jewel of the eai). Vishnoo upon this spot also obtained as a boon fxom Mahadeo, the pxivUege which Kashi enjoys of giving mookti ox emancipation to aU objects, especially to those who bestow gifts, exect Ungas, and do not coramit suicide within the holy precincts." The Duiga Kund Temple, also a holy place to which many votaries wend theii way, stands in honoui of Duiga, the wffe of Siva. Peisons who have sick and dying lelatives offei goats in sacrifice on the altai of this goddess. They axe moved to do so by a belief that this deity lejoices in the INDIA, 231 sickness and death of men, women, and chUdien, and that she can only be pievaUed upon to lestoie the sick to health, and so defei the houx of theix dissolution by the sacrifice of a goat or buffalo. Bloody sacrifices, however, are for other reasons offered to this goddess by her votaries. Thus, for example, at the time of our -visit to the temple, a labourer, who was leading two kids, entered, and upon being /asked by our companion, why he had brought the two young goats, he replied that ha-ving no situation it was his intention to offer thera in sacrifice to Durga, a goddess who delights in blood, with the -view of propitiating her and obtaining through her di-vine interposition, daUy employment. It is in this temple that several hundreds of monkeys find food and shelter. These animals are regarded in the light of so many gods aud goddesses, and as such are permitted to roam wherever their inclinations may lead them. As we were dri-ving to this temple, we met on the high road, long ere we had reached our destination, several of these sacred animals. Some of them were perched on the tops of the adjacent houses or walls, whUe not a few were sporting in the high road. It is in the temple itseU, however, that they are found ia very large nurabers. This is, in a great raeasure, o-wing to the fact that they are there fed, as an act of re Ugious raerit, by devotees and others who have occasion to mvoke the blessings of Durga. This fane, though smaU, is very neat, and as Durga is supposed to ride occasionally on the back of a Uon, there are placed within the entrance porch of the teraple for her service two crouching lions sculptured in stone. In this same fane, there hangs a beU, which was dedicated to the service of Durga, so say the natives, by an EngUsh magistrate of Mirjapore. The name of the donor is, if we mistake not, engraved on the run of the bell. The story respecting this gift, as related to us, may be very briefly told. The magistrate in question having been caught in a very ¦ severfe squaU, when crossing the Ganges, and having in con= sequence been exposed to great danger, vowed that, if pre served, he would dedicate a beU to Durga. Let us hope 232 . INDLi., that this extraordinary story is not true. Is it, indeed, credi ble that an English magistrate — a Christian professedly — should present an offering to a pagan goddess ? Araongst other shrines the mosque of Aurungzebe is worthy of notice. It is adomed by two graceful minarets, each of which is one hundred and fifty feet high. Their sum mits are approached by narrow winding staircases. It is from the tops of these very graceful towers that the muezzins, by uplifted voices, sumraon, flve tiraes daUy, the faithful to prayers. This raosque is erected on a broad and elevated platforra or dais near to the Madhoray Ghaut, and it occu pies the site on which the temple of Bindh Madhu or Vishnu formerly stood. This buUding was rased to the ground by Aurungzebe, and with the -view of signalising the triumph of Mohammedanism over Brahminism, he erected this large mosque on the sarae site. He proceeded raoreover, to add insult to injury by buUding his mosque, in a great measure, of the very materials of which the temple of Vishnu was forraed. This circurastance accounts for the singular feature of a row of Hindoo colurans being placed in the front elevation. This raosque is, as a matter of course, a source of great annoyance to the Hindoos, as it reminds them of the defeat which they sustained at thehands of Aurungzebe, and of the destruction, by that Mohammedan conqueror, of their former temple. The Mohammedans have long desired to buUd a gateway in front of the raosque, but the Hindoos very strongly object to such a proceeding. The followers of the prophet, very wisely, do not push the raatter. Were they to do so, the sacred city of the Hindoos would speedUy become an arena of bloodshed and atrocities unparalleled. The Buddhist ruins at Samath proved very interesting to us. We were accompanied to them by Mr, Sh erring, whose great archaeological knowledge was of much service to us. They consist not only of two towers, which are situated at a distance of half a mile from each other, but of the dilapidated waUs and foundations of buildings, which, for many ages were covexed with earth. Of the gieat towei the following inte- INDIA. 23ti resting account is furnished by the pen of Major-General Cunningham : — " The Buddhist Stupa, caUed Dhamek, is a solid round tower, ninety-three feet in diameter at base, and one hundred and ten feet in height about the surrounding ruins, but one hundred and twenty-eight feet above the general level of the country. The foundation or baseraent, which is made of very large bricks, has a depth of twenty-eight feet below the level of the ruins, but is sunk only ten feet below the surface of the country. The lower part of the tower, to a height of forty-three feet, is built entirely of stone from one of the Chunar quarries ; and with the exception of the upper five courses, the whole of this part of the building is a soUd mass of stone, and each stone, even in the very heart of the mass, is secured to its neighbours by iron cramps, The upper part of the tower is buUt entUely of large bricks, but, as the outer facing has long ago disappeared, there is nothing now left to show whether it was formerly cased with stone, or only plastered over, and coloured to iraitate the stonework of the lower portion, I infer, however, that it was plastered, be cause the existing stonework terrainates with the sarae course aU round the building, a length of two hundred and ninety- two feet. Had the upper part been cased with stone, it is scarcely possible that the whole should have disappeared so completely that not even a single block out of so raany thousands should not reraain in its original position. In one part I observed some projecting bricks, which appeared very hke the remains of a moulding at the base of the dome. On the top I found a sraaU brick cap, eight feet in diameter, and only four feet high, " From its size, I infer that this was the ruin of the base of a smaU pinnacle, about ten feet square, which most pro bably once supported a stone umbrella, I infer this because the figures of Buddha, the Teacher, are usuaUy represented as seated under an umbrella, " The lower part of the monument has eight projecting faces, each twenty-one feet six inches in width, with inter- 234 INDIA, vais of fifteen feet between them. In each of the faces, at a height of twenty-four feet above the ground, there is a semi circular headed niche, five and half feet in width, and the same in height. In each of the niches there is a pedestal, one foot in height, and slightly hoUowed on the top, to re ceive the base of a statue, but the statues themselves have long disappeared, and I did not find the fragraent of one in ray excavation at the base of the raonument. There can be little doubt, however, that all the eight statues represented Buddha, the Preacher, in the usual form, with his hands raised before his breast, and the thumb and forefinger of the right hand placed on the little finger of the left hand, for the purpose of enforcing his argument. Judging by the dimen sions of the niches, the statues must have been of Ufe size, " From the level of the base of the niches, the eight pro jecting faces lessen in width to five feet at the top, but the diminution is not uniform, as it begins graduaUy at first, and increases as it approaches the top. The outline of the slope may have been, possibly, intended for a curve, but it looks much more like three sides of a large polygon. Around the niches, seven of the faces are more or less richly decorated with a profusion of flowering foUage, The carving on some of the faces has been completed, but, on others, it is Uttle more than half finished, while the south face is altogether plain. On the unfinished faces, portions of the unexecuted ornamentation may be seen traced in outUne by the chisel, which proves that in ancient times the Hindoos followed the same practice as at present, of adding the carving after the wall was buUt, " On the western face, the same ornamentation of flowiiig foUage is continued below the niche ; and, in the raidst of it, there is a smaU plant tablet, which can only have been in tended for a very short inscription, such, perhaps, as the name of the buUding, A triple band of ornament, nearly nine feet in depth below the niches, encircles all the rest of the buUd ing, both faces and recesses. The middle band, which is the broadest, is formed entirely of various geometrical figures, the INDIA. 235 main Unes being deeply cut, and the intervening spaces being fiUed with various ornaments. On some of the faces, where the spaces between the deeply-cut Unes of the ruUng figures are left plain, I infer that the work is unfinished. The upper band of ornamentation, which is the narrowest, is, generaUy, a scroU of the lotus plant, with leaves and buds only, while the lower band, which is also a lotus scroU, contains the fuU- blown flowers, as weU as the buds. The lotus flower is repre sented fuU to the front, on all the sides except the south- south-west, where it is shown in a side view, with a Chakwa or Brahmani goose seated upon it. " This, indeed, is the only side on which any animal repre sentations are given, which is the more remarkable, as it is one of the recesses, and not one of the projecting faces. In the middle of the ornament there is a human figure seated on a lotus flower, and holding two branches of the lotus in his hands. On each side of him there are three lotus flowers, of which the foux neaiei ones suppoxt paixs of Biahmani geese, wMle the two faithei ones cany only single bUds. Ovei the nearest paii of geese, on the right hand of the figuie, there is a frog. The attitudes of the birds are aU good, and even that of the huraan figure is easy, although formal. The lotus sproU, with its flowhig lUies of graceful stalk, mingled with tender buds, and fuU blown flowers, and deUcate leaves, is very rich and very beautfful. Below the ornaraental borders there are three plain projecting bands. " The breadth of one projecting face and of one recess is tMrty-six feet six baches, Avhich, multipUed by eight, give two hundred and ninety-two feet as the circumference, and a trifle less than ninety-three feet as the diameter. " Near the top of the north-west face there are four pro- jectiag stones, placed Uke steps, that is, they are not imme diately over each other, and above them there is a fifth stone, which is pierced with a round hole for the reception of a post, or, more probably, of a flag-staff. The lowest of these stones can only be reached by a ladder, but ladders must have been always available if, as 1 suppose, it was customary on stated ,236 INDIA. occasions to fix flags and strearaers on various parts of the buUding, in the sarae manner as is now done in the Buddhist countries of Burmah and Ladak. "On the 18th January, 1835, my scaffolding was com pleted, and I stood on the top of the great tower. On cutting the long grass, I found two iron spikes, each eight inches long, and shaped Uke the head of a lance. On the foUowing day I removed the ruined brick pinnacle, and began sinking a shaft or weU, about five feet in diameter. At three feet from the top I found a rough stone, twenty-four inches by fifteen inches by seven inches, and, on the 25th January, at a depth of ten and a half feet, I found an inscribed slab, twenty-eight inches and three-quarters long, thirteen inches broad, and four inches and three-quarters thick, which is now in the Museum of the Bengal Asiatic Society. The inscription consists of the usual Buddhist formula of profession of faith, beginning with the words, ' Ye Dharmraa hetu prabhava,' &c., of which transla tions have been given by Mill, Hodgson, Wilson, and Burnouf The foUowing is Hodgson's translation, which has received the approval of Burnouf. Of all things proceeding frora cause, their causes hath the Tathagata (Buddha) explained. The Great Sraraana (Buddha) hath likewise explained the causes of the cessation of existence. The letters of this inscription, which are all beautifuUy cut, appear to rae to be of a some what earlier date than the Tibetan alphabet, which is known to have been obtained from India in the middle of the seventh century. I would, therefore, assign the inscription, and, con sequently, the completion of the monument, to the sixth century. " On the 22nd January I began to excavate a horizontal gaUery on the level of the top of the stonework, and, on the 14th of February, at a distance of forty-four feet, the gaUery joined the shaft, which had been sunk from above. As I now found that the upper course of stone was only a facing, I sank the gallery itself down to the level of the stone-work, and continued it right through to the opposite side. I thus dis covered thatthe mass of the inner stone-work was only thirty- INDIA. 237 three feet in height, while the outer stone-work was forty- three feet. In the middle, however, there was a piUar of stone work, rising six feet higher than the inner raass. This was, perhaps, used as a point from which to describe the circle with accuracy. Small galleries were also made to reach the tops of the east and west faces, but nothing was discovered by these works. " The labour of sinking the shaft througii the solid stone work was verj"- great, as the stones which were large (from two to three feet in length, eighteen inches broad, and twelve inches thick) were aU secured to each other by iron cramps. Each stone had, usually, eight cramps, four above and as many below, aU of which had to be cut out before it could be moved. I therefore sent to Chunar for regular quarrymen to quarry out the stones, and the work occupied them for several months. At length, at a depth of one hundred and ten feet from the top of the monument, the stone gave place to brick work, made of very large bricks. Through this the shaft was continued for a further depth of twenty-eight feet, when I reached the plain soU beneath the foundation. Lastly, a gaUery was run right through the brickwork of the foundation immediately below the stone- work, but without yielding any result.'' The remark of Major-General Cunningham, that the antiquity of the Buddhist tower may be judged of from its form, is worthy of great attention, for, if his observations be just, — and it must be confessed few men have had the same extensive experience in exploring Buddhist reraains in India, — it would be an ascertained fact that the large tower at Sarnath could not date from earlier but from later Buddhist times. The oldest kind of tower, such as those existing at Sanchi and Satdhara, was, he says, " a simple hemisphere." The epoch of these two was, he conjectures, the middle of the sisth century B.C.- "The next, in point of antiquity, are the topes (towers) around BhUsa, which contain the reUcs of Asokas missionaries, and of the venerable MogaUputra, who conducted the proceedings of the Third Synod. In these, which were built in the end of the third century B.C., the 238 INDIA. dome is raised a few feet above the basement by a cylindrical plinth The third class of topes are those represented in the Sanchi bas-reliefs, which date between 19 and 37 a.d. In these the hemisphere is placed upon a plinth of equal height, so that the centre of the dome is the centre of the whole buUding. Six representations of this kind of tope ocCur among the Sanchi bas-reliefs. The topes in Afghanistan are, mostly, of this shape. In the latest topes, of which Samath, near Benares, is a magnificent speciraen, the pUnth is equal in height to the diameter of the hemisphere.. From these reraarks it is evident that the age of alraost every tope may be obtained, approximately from the shape, the most ancient being a simple hemisphere, and the latest a taU round tower, surmounted by a dome." From Benares we proceeded by raUway, the usual mode of travelUng, to Allahabad. At Sirsa Eoad, — for such is the name of the station at which we last stopped before reaching AUahabad, — our Chinese servant was unfortunately left be hind. He had been walking to and fro on the platform of the station, utterly regardless of the ringing of the tirae beU, when, to his great astondshraent, he observed the train was hi motion. He made an attempt to regain his carriage, but in this endeavour he was frustrated by the raUway porters, who, apprehensive of his faUing into danger, seized him and held him back. As the train was mo-ving onwards we heard shrieks of despair, and at once concluded that they -were the cries of our Chinese servant. On our arrival at AUahabad we missed him, and were then told by the guard of the train that he had been left behind. As the train in which' we traveUed on this occasion was the last train of the day, we could not hope to see our domestic until the foUowing mom ing. Shortly after the day had dawned he anived, looking very much ashamed of himseff. We were glad, however, to learn that he had been most kindly treated by the raUway officials at Sirsa Eoad, the place of his detention, AUahabad, a city founded by Hindoos at the confluence of the Ganges and the Jumna, is regarded as a place of no ordi- INDIA, 239 uary sanctity. The streets by which the city is intersected are broad and weU raacadamised. On each side thereof large trees are planted, which not only form fiue avenues, but also a shelter from the sun. The place is rendered stiU further attractive by several handsorae -viUas and bungalows, each of which stands in its o-wn ornaraental grounds. The Jumna Musjid, or Great Mosque, which is well situated on the hanks of the Jumna, is a stately-looking edifice. It is, however, very plain and simple, being utterly devoid of ornamentation. When the pro-vince, of which Allahabad is the capital, feU into the hands of the British, this mosque was set apart as the residence of the general in coraraand of the forces. EventuaUy it was converted into an assembly room, but now it is used by the Mohararaedans, as was originaUy intended, as a place of religious worship. The fort built by Akbar, and who nameji the city in which it stands AUahabad, or the city of AUah, is very interesting. It is constructed of red freestone, is in point of circumference two thousand five hundred yaids, and is said to have cost 1,750,000Z, Of this fortification Hebei says, " It has been a very noble castle, but has suffeied in its external appearance as much as it has probably gained in strength by the moderni sation which it has undergone frora its present masters, its lofty tower being pruned down -with bastions and cavaUers, and its high stone ramparts topped with turf parapets, and obscured by a green sloping glacis. It is stiU, however, a striking place, and its principal gate, surmounted by a dome with a -wide haU beneath, sunounded by arcades and gaUeries, and ornamented with rude but glowing paintings, is the noblest entrance I ever saw to a place of arms." An old palace, which contains, apparently, several apartments, and of which sorae are intersected by three rows of columns, consti tuting three adjoining arcades, has been especiaUy set apart as a place of residence for officers in command. The arsenal, which is situated in the fort, contains, or did contain, arms for 30,000 men. In one of the courts stands an ancient stone column, forty-two feet seven inches high, and which is caUed 240 INDIA. the war club of Bhim Sen, a hero to whom raany references are made in the mythological -writings of India, Upon it are engraved two Sanscrit inscriptions. No Oriental scholar, however, has thus far succeeded in rendering them into English. The serai of Khusru, the unhappy and unfortunate son of Jehangir, is also a place of great interest. It is a very spacious quadrangle, which is enclosed by an embattled waU, and contains several chambers, which are especially prepared for the gratuitous reception of wayfarers. Attached to this place is a large garden, in which three mausoleums, conspicuous for the richness and elegance oftheir architecture, are contained, Each is surmounted by a raassive marble dome. They con tain respectively the remains of the princes Purvez, Khusru, and the Begum Jehangir. On leaving Allahabad, we directed our course to Lucknow, a city which was, for many years, famous for its commerce and the wealth of its citizens. It is situated on the right bank of the na-vigable Eiver Goomtee, and occupies a site on which forraerly stood sixty-four vUlages. The naraes of these viUages stUl remain fresh in the memories of men, owing to the fact that they have been applied to certain Mohultas. Fizabad was formerly the capital of Oude, but in the year 1775, that is, on the accession of Nawab Ausufood-deen- dowlah, it was deprived of the rank and dignity which attach to the metropolis of a kingdom, and the honours in question was transferred to Lucknow. At one period of time, Lucknow consisted of houses which were, in a great measure, constructed either of brick work or stone, and which were three or four stories in height. The streets, though narrow, were very picturesque, and were daily crowded by weU-dressed and respectable-looking citi zens. Now, however, the reverse is the case. This melan choly change is, of course, owing to the rebelUon which, in the years 1857 and 1858, so greatly disturbed the peace and good order of the Indian empire. The Eiver Goomtee, on the banks of which the city stands, is navigable upwards for many miles above the town. INDIA, 241 and downwards through its whole course, to its confluence with the Ganges, It is spanned at Lucknow by three bridges, of which the first is caUed Bruce's bridge ; the second, the iron bridge ; and the third, the stone bridge. The first of these bridges is so called in consequence of its having been erected under the directions and supervision of Mr, Bruce, who, at that time, 1865-66, was municipal engineer. In the year 1870, one of the wing piers, owing to the overflow ing of the waters of the Goomtee, gave way. The damages sustained were afterwards repaired, and the bridge was once more thro-wn open to traffic. Grave doubts, however, as to the stabUity of this bridge are stUl seriously entertained by many of the citizens of Lucknow. That portion of the river which it spans was formerly crossed by means of a bridge of boats. The iron bridge is a graceful structure, and was manufac tured in England in 1816, at the expense of King Saadut Ah Khan. This raonarch, however, having quitted this transitory scene before the arrival of the bridge, the work of erecting it was not entered upon in consequence of a re luctance on the part of the reigning sovereign to complete a work which had been designed by his predecessor. At the end of the thirty years ensuing, a prince named Mohammed Ah Shah, succeeded to the throne, and as he had none of the superstitious feelings which so characterised his predecessor, he at once proceeded to coraplete the great work which had been conceived and partiaUy entered upon by Saadut Ali Khan. The British force, in its retreat from Chirhutt, avaUed itself of this bridge, and it was here, too, that raany of the rebels, when in hot pursuit of the fugitive force, were cut down by artUlery stationed at the Eesidency. But let us conclude these remarks by observing that the stone bridge, which is a very picturesque and substantial structure, was erected in the year 1780 at the expense of Nawab Ausuf- ood-dowlah. But let us now give our attention more particularly to the city of Lucknow. It contains many objects, which traveUers B 242 INDIA. and tourists will find to be deep in point of interest and rich in historical association. Havuig purchased the Lucknow Album as a guide-book, — an exceUent work by Darogha Ubbas AIU, assistant municipal engineer, — we entered once raore upon the interesting work of sight-seeing. The first place to which we had recourse was the Aulum Bagh, for merly the garden residence or summer resort of the Nawab Khas Mehal, queen of the ex-King Wajid Ali Shah. When the peace of Lucknow and its environs was disturbed by rebeUious troops, this garden was, for some tirae during the mutiny, a stronghold of seditious soldiers. It succumbed, at length, to an attack which was made upon it by General Havelock, and was converted by that officer into a hospital for the service of the sick and wounded of the British army. It was here, too, that the remains of Havelock were interred. On the monument which stands to perpetuate his memory is recorded the following most fulsome inscription : — " Here Eest the Mortal Eemains of Henry Havelock, Major-General in the British Array, and Knight Comman der of the Bath, who died at Dilkoosha, Lucknow, of dysen tery, produced by the hardships of a campaign, in which he achieved immortal fame, on the 24th of November, 1857. He was born on the 5th of AprU, 1795, at Bishopwearmouth county Durham, England. "Entered the army in 1815, came to India in 1823, and served there with little interruption until his death. He bore an honourable part in the wars of Burma, Affghanistan, the Maharatta campaign of 1843, and the Sutlej of 1845-6. Eetained by adverse circumstances, during mg-ny years, in a subordinate position, it was the aira of his life to prove that the profession of a Christian is consistent with the fullest discharge of the duties of a soldier. " He comraanded a division of the Persian Expedition of 1857. In the terrible convulsion of that year, his genius and character were at length -fully developed and known to the INDIA. 243 world. Saved frora ship-wxeck on the Ceylon coast by that Providence which designed hira for yet greater things, he was nominated to the cominand of the column destined to reUeve the brave garrison of Lucknow. Tlus object of almost superhuman exertions, he, by the blessing of God, accompUshed, but he was not spared to receive on earth the reward so dearly earned ; and the Divine Master whom he served saw fit to remove hira frora the sphere of his labours in the raoraent of his greatest triumph. " He departed to his rest in humble, but confident expec tation of far greater rewards and honours than those which a gxateful country was anxious to bestow on him. The skUl of a commander, the courage and devotion of a soldier, the learning of a scholar, the grace of a high-bred gentleman, and all the social and domestic virtues of a husband, father, and friend were blended together, strengthened, harmonised, and adomed by the spirit of a true Christian — the result of the influence of the Holy Spirit on his heart, and of a humble reliance on the merits of a crucified Saviour. " ' I have fought a good fight, I have finished my course, I have kept the faith : henceforth there is laid up for me a crown of righteousness, which the Lord, the righteous Judge, shaU give me on that day ; and not to me only, but to all those that love his appearing." " ' His ashes in a peaceful urn shaU rest ; His name a great example stands, to show How strangely high endeavours may be blessed, "When piety and valotir jointly go.' " This monument is erected by his sons, widow, and family." It was not untu we had read this flattering epitaph that we began to question the greatness of Havelock's character. For we naturaUy felt that a panegyric so eulogistic, and evidently coming, too, from the pen of his own famUy, must have been written in defence of defects unknown to us. From the Aulum Bagh we drove to the dUapidated and n 2 244 INDIA. apparently deserted palace of Bebeapore. This building was, formerly, the country residence of Nawab Ausuf-ood-dowlah,. a sovereign who removed the seat of government from Fazabad to Lucknow, and thus raade it the capital city of the king dom of Oude. Attached to the palace was a smaU park, in which garae was preserved for the pastime of the kiag and his friends. The palace, as we have intimated, is now in ruins, and the park, it is said, has becorae the lair of wUd animals. The only historical association with which this palace is connected was the deposition of Wuzeer AU* and the enthronement of his successor, Nawab Saadut Ali Khan. On our way from Bebeapore towards Lucknow, we called at the Welaite Bagh, which was forraerly a royal pleasure gar den, and received much care and attention at the hands of King Naseer-ood-deen Hyder. It was here, that this monarch, together with various members of his court, used to resort occasionaUy for repose and recreation. Since the days of King Naseer it has fallen greatly into decay. The Dilkoosha was the next place of interest in our hne of march. This once beautiful residence owes its foundation to Saadut Ali Khan. The grounds in which it stands were, at one time, occupied by brush wood; in obedience, how ever, to the coramands of Saadut Ali Khan, the brush wood was cleared away and the space which it had covered was converted into a large deer park. It was here that the ladies of the court of Oude were accustomed to pass the summer months. In 1857, this place was held by the rebels in great force. It was at length captured by a Bxitish foxce, consisting of 6 detachments of the 5th Fusilieis, the 64th Foot, and the 78th Highlandeis, undei the comraand of Lieutenant-Colonel Hamilton. Heie Sii Heniy Havelock died on the 24th Novembei, 1857. Beyond the waUs aie the tombs of Lieutenant W. Paul, 4th Punjaub Eifles, and Lieutenant C. E. Dashwood, 18th B.N.L * VP'uzeer Ali retired to Benares, at which place he murdered Mr. Cherry, the British agent, and other Englishmen. INDIA. 245 We were now attracted to that haughty pile of buildings known as La Martiniere College. The founder of this noble and useful institution was a Frenchman named Claude Mar tin. This extraordinary man was born at Lyons in 1735, and, enlisting as a soldier in the French Army, he embarked for India under Count LaUy, in 1758. In the wars with the British, which iraraediately foUowed his debarkation, he showed great gallantry. On the surrender of Pondicherry he joined the British Array, in which sorvice he eventually attained the rank of Major-General. He afterwards entered the service of the King of Oude, and being permitted, also, to foUow the occupation of a hawker and trader, he acquired a colossal fortune. He died in the year 1800, having bequeathed the greater portion of his iraraense wealth to charitable purposes. The coUege, La Martiniere, of which he was the founder, was estabUshed in 1840 according to the tenor of his will, and in 1860 it was affiUated with the University of Calcutta. It consists of two departments, in one of which European youths, and in the other native youths, are instructed in every branch of useful learning. The buUding is one of a most imposing nature, and so elaborate in aU its detaUs, as almost to beggar description. Near to it there stands a lofty fluted pdlar, from the surarait of which an extensive view of the surrounding country is obtained. The reraains of General Claude Martin were buried in a vault beneath the coEege, to which access is obtained by a stone staucase. Soraetime during the rebellion of 1857-58, the mutineers in the hope of finding treasure, opened this vault. In a fit of rage, the result of disappointment, they scattered the bones of the general to the winds. But, how ever, when the rebels had been dispersed, portions of these human remains were discovered and reinterred in the vault from which they had been so ruthlessly removed. Over the tomb there is placed a monuraent of white raarble, bearing the name of the departed one. The Sekunder Bagh next claimed our attention. This 246 INDIA. place, which is now in ruins, was buUt by Wajid AU Shah, and presented by him to his favourite wife, Sekunder Mahal, Hence its name. It is enclosed by a high waU, and formed at the time of the rautiny a stronghold for the rebels, A breach having been made in the waUs by Captain Blunt's troop of Horse ArtiUery and Captain Travers' Eoyal light Field Battery, the 93rd Highlanders and detachments of the 53rd Foot, and 4th Punjaub Eifles rushed through the breach into the Bagh, and bayonetted upwards of tv,^o thousand rebels. The resistance on the part of the mutineers was very despe rate. Indeed they fought untU there were but a few of their force remaining. Thus the Sekunder Bagh as the arena on which more than two thousand rebels were put to death, by British soldiers, has acquired a great notoriety in the annals of Indian history. Near to the Sekunder Bagh is the shrine caUed the Kuddum Easool. It is a place of great sanctity, and was erected by King Ghazee-ood-deen Hyder, The sanctity by which it is invested is owing, in a great measure, to the fact, or supposed fact, that it contains a stone on which is an im pression of the foot of Mahomet, This stone, it is said, was brought from Mecca and deposited in the shrine by a pUgrim of great piety and learning. There are, however, not a few persons who contend that the reUc in question was removed frora this place by sacrUegious hands, and deposited else where. This shrine was occupied for a short period, at the tirae of the rebelUon by a band of rautineers. It is surely needless for us to state that it speedUy fell before an invading British force. The Najuf Ashruf or Shah Najaf is a mausoleum, which King Ghazee-ood-deen Hyder ordered to be erected as a rest ing place for his mortal remains. It is enclosed by a wall, and afforded in this and other respects, a place of defence for the mutineers. It was captured by the Naval Brigade, under the command of Captain Sir William Peel. The saUors, headed by Peel, scaled the walls of the mausoleum, and, fall ing into the very midst of the enemy, literaUy cut them to INDIA. 247 pieces by means of cutlasses. The place was afterwards garrisoned by British soldiers, under the command of Lieut. - Colonel A. Hope, C.B. The Mote Mahal, which was erected by Nawab Saadut AU Khan, was evidently intended, so far as its name iraplies, as a seraglio, but for that purpose, so far as we can learn, it uever was used. It is connected with a range of buildings which are respectively known as the Mubark Munzil and the Shah MunzU. In the last-mentioned buUding, it was customary for the king to witness bull fights and tiger fights. The Mote Mahal, which was enclosed by a high waU, was in the year 1857 fortified by the rebels. It was stormed and captured by Sir John CampbeU. Araongst the slain on the side of the British were Brigadier-General Cooper, command ing the ArtUlery, Lieutenant Crumb, Madras ArtiUery, Dr. Bartram, and Colonel CarapbeU. It is now the property of the Maharajah of BuUampore. The Khoorshaid MunzU, a buUding which was commenced in the reign of Saadut AU Khan, and completed in the reign of Ghazee-ood-deen Hyder, was also, for a time, a stronghold of the rebels. Ha'ving been bombarded for several hours, it was at length stormed and captured by the Naval Brigade, and detachments from the 90th and 53rd Eegiments of Foot. It was within the waUs of this building that the three generals, Outram, Havelock, and CarapbeU, met together, and shaldng hands, congratulated each other on the great success which, despite the number of the enemy, and the strength of his strongholds, had crowned theu arms. What object the kings of Oude had in -view when they erected this buUding no one can divine. It is now the Martiniere Girls' School. We now -visited with feeUngs of deep sympathy and pro found interest the monument which has been erected, not only to perpetuate the memory of the European captives who were massacred at Lucknow, but to mark, at the same time, the plot of ground on which this cruel and bloody deed was per petrated. The -victims were Mrs. Green, Mrs. Eogers, Miss Jackson, Sir Mountstuart Jackson, Captain Patrick Orr, Lieu- 248 INDIA. tenant Burns, Mr. Carew, Mr. J. SuUivan, Sergeant Morton, and others. The personage at whose command these unfor tunate men and women were put to death in cold blood, was the Eajah Jey-lal Singh. This wicked prince had the cold- heartedness to -witness the slaughter of these unoffending persons. A few years afterwards he was apprehended, and on the undoubted testimony of several of his own people, was convicted of this diaboUcal crime. He was,-eventuaUy, executed in sight of the very place where he had stained his hands in the blood of others. His wife, upon hearing of the capital punishraent which was about to be -visited on him, offered, with the -view of procuring a commutation of his sentence, the sum of five lacs of rupees. This singular offer, however, was, we need scarcely add, rejected -with scorn, on the part of those to whom it was made. The great palace of King Wajid AU Shah is well worthy of a visit. This raonarch, being arabitious to have a palace equalling, ff not surpassing in point of grandeur aU other palaces, laid the foundation stone of this building in the year 1850, and it was completed, in a comparatively short period of time, at a cost of one miUion pounds sterUng. The principal part of the palace comprised the great rectangle, the build ings surrounding which could accoramodate a thousand mehals, or queens. There were many other detached buUdings forming part of the palace, each of which was provided with a private garden of its own, the whole being enclosed by a high waU. The gardens in the centre of the square were most tastefuUy laid out, and adorned with innumerable fountains;" the walks were Uned with classic statuary ; the surrounding buUdings were suraptuously furnished and richly decorated with large chandeliers, girandoles, waU-brackets, fumiture elaborately mounted in sUver and gold, embroidered curtains, cashraere tapestry ; and everytlung, in fact, calculated to add to the splendour of an oriental court, was brought into re quisition, no raatter what the cost, or from what distance the articles had to be brought. At the tirae of the rautiny this palace was strongly forti- INDIA. 249 fied by the rebels. It fell, however, before a force of British troops, who, so soon as they had gained an entrance into the building, showed no mercy to the many luckless mutineers whom they found therein. We, in the next instance, -visited two mausoleuras of great size aud grandeur, one of which contains the mortal remains of Nawab Saadut AU Khan, and the other those of his queen, Moorshed 2adi. These raausoleuras, which were erected by King Ghazee-ood-deen Hyder, in order to receive the bodies of his royal parents, are noble structures, and whUe they serve as receptacles for the dead, they stand as raonuraents of the filial piety of Ghazee-ood-deen Hyder. Near to these royal torabs is a square, caUed Huzrut Bagh, where, in a secret subterranean passage, treasure belonging to the royal family of Oude, and exceeding in amount one million pounds sterUng, was found concealed by Major Banks, This treasure was confiscated, of course, by the British Government. The Kaiser Pussund, or House of Caesar's pleasure, is the place in which Sir Mountstuart Jackson and other British captives were confined from the tirae of theU capture imtil the hour in which they were pubUcly and cruelly raurdered, in obedience to the imperious comraands of Eajah Jey-lal Singh. This building, which was, at one tirae, the residence of Eoshun-ood-dowlah, Prime Minister of Oude, and after wards the palace of Maushoo-kos Sultan, a favourite queen of King Wajid AU Shah, is now a British Governraent buUd ing. That is, its spacious charabers are, respectively, the offices of the treasurer, superintendent of poUce, city magis trates, and others. Some very imposing structures on the right bank of the Goomtee, next demanded our attention. They are of a very mixed style of architecture, and are distinguished by the name of Chutter MunzU, This name is given to them in consequence of the chutter or umbrella, which, coated with gold, and rising to a great height above the principal build ing, literally glistens under the rays of the sun,. These 250 INDIA, palatial buUdings were erected at a very considerable cost, by King Naseer-ood-deen Hyder, as a zenana for his many queens. They also formed a stronghold for the rebels, and it was not untU they had been severely cannonaded that they finaUy succumbed. Of these stractures, one is now the United Service Club, and the other a nisi prius court. Near to this place is a buUding, which was used by the Kings of Oude as a throne room, a coronation liaU, and a reception haU. It is caUed, in consequence of the red stone of which it is buUt, Lai Baradurree, and is famous on the pages of Indian history for a very warra debate which took place within its waUs, in regard to the Oude succession, be tween Naseer-ood-dowlah, the rightful heir, and Monna Jan, the Pretender. The latter used every arguraent and every artifice to induce the British Eesident, Colonel Lowe, who was present on the occasion, to acknowledge his right to the throne. AU, however, proved in vain. The foUowers of the Pretender becoraing, in consequence, greatly enraged, threat ened to usurp by force of arms that which belonged neither to them nor their raaster. Colonel Lowe, quickly percei-ving this disturbed and threatening aspect of affairs, immediately gave orders for the destruction of the buUding by caimon. This comraand so greatly alarmed the Pretender and his mother, Badsha Begum, and aU their adherents, that they one and aU rushed from the haU, leaving Naseer-ood-dowlah in fuU possession of his rights. It was in this hall, too, that Lord Canning on his entry, after the suppression of the rebelUon in Lucknow, held a very grand durbar, or levee. AU the nobles of Oude, each attired in the robes of his order, were present on the occasion, and were informed in the raost unmistakable terms that Britons were in future to be their ralers. The " BaUUe Guard," to which we now hastened, proved a source of great interest. The name of BaUUe Guard is apphed to this buUding in consequence of the gate by which it is approached, having been the port or barracks of the British Eesident's official escort of troops, during the period that INDIA. 251 they were coraraanded by Colonel BaUlie. The mansion, now a heap of ruins, to which access is obtained by this gate, was buUt in the year 1800, by Nawab Saadut Ali Khan, as the official quarters of the British Eesident at his court ; and Colonel BaUUe was, it appears, the first officer that ever com manded the Eesident's escort of troops. The mutiny at Luclmow began on the 30th of May, 1857, in the Muvriaon cantonments. Preparations were, therefore, at once entered upon by the British force, -with the view of rendering the Eesi dency impregnable. The entrance gate was not only stocked up by means of sand bags, but strengthened, at the same time, by strong barricades. This post, one of great import ance, was then placed under the charge of Lieutenant Aitkin, of the 13th Native Infantry, and the few men of that regi ment who had reraained true and faithful to their colours. In the under-ground rooms of the residency the women and cluldren of Her Majesty's 32nd Eegiment of Foot were lodged, these vaults being regarded as more or less proof against the inroads of shot and sheU. A report having reached the brave garrison of the Eesidency that the rebels had advanced as far as Chinhutt, which is at a distance of eight English nules frora Lucknow, it was resolved that a part of the ganison should at once march to that place, with the view of destroying thera. Accordingly, on the 30th of June, a British force, consisting of a smaU body of infantry, a few members of an inegular or volunteer cavalry corps, some field guns, and an eight-inch howitzer, drawn by an elephant, went forth, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel IngUs and Sh Henry Lawrence, to meet the enemy, in the neighbour hood of Chinhutt. The astonishment of this very inadequate British force was indeed great when it discovered that the enemy could boast of an army of infantry, cavaUy, and artillery, estimated at sixty thousand strong. Moreover this army of rebels was not only well drUled, but was under the command of officers altogether capable of directing its move ments. No time, however, was to be lost, and with the -view of checking the enemy's advance a most spirited charge was 252 INDIA. raade upon hira by the volunteei cavaliy. He was, fox a moment, suipxised, but on xecoveiing himseff, he made an atterapt to outflank the smaU band of Biitish tioops. This endeavoui having been peiceived, the Biitish felt it piudent to beat a letieat, which they accomplished, having left, how evei, amongst the slain. Colonel Case, and neaily one hundred men of Hei Majesty's 32nd Eegiment of Foot. The letxeating foxce ha-ving leached the BaiUie Guaid in safety, though hotly puxsued, the siege of that place, on the paxt of the rebels, at once commenced, and continued with almost unabated vigour from the 30th of June to the 25th of the foUowing raonth of Septeraber. The cannonade generaUy began each day at dawn, but towards noon it was not so active. In the after noon, however, it was resuraed with unabated vigour. On the 2nd of July, the third day of the siege. Sir Henry Lawrence, whUe sitting in a roora situated on the north-east corner of the building, was mortaUy wounded, and died after three or four days of great suffering. In his last moments he begged that no epitaph, except the following, should be inscribed on his tomb. Here lies Henry La-wxence, Who tried to do his duty ; May The Loxd have Meicy on his Soul In one charabei, six soldieis of the 32nd Eegiment were buried in ruins, the walls of the apartraent in question having been so weakened by the cannonading of the enemy as to suddenly fall upon thera. Of these six raen, two only were found alive on the reraoval of the ruins. The rebels, however, did not confine their labour to cannonading, but forraed raines at aU points, which were met with counter mines on the part of the besieged, and exploded. Moreover, they made, but without success, frequent attacks upon the Eesidency, On the 25th of September, the relieving force anived, and shortly after the flight of the rebels had taken place, General Outrara, attended by the 78th Highlanders and Sikhs reached, to the great joy of the hitherto besieged INDIA. 253 garrison, the Baillie Guard gate. This intrepid garrison, upon which, for nearly three months, the eyes of all India had been fixed, -«'as found, of course, in a very reduced state. In the first instance it consisted of 1,692 souls, that is, 927 Europeans and 765 natives. Owing to the casualties of the siege, it nurabered, at the time it was relieved, 577 Euro peans, and 402 natives. Of the latter, not less than 230 had deserted. On the summit of a grassy mound stands the " Lawrence Memorial." It is a plain, but in some respects iraposing column, sculptured in statuary of Chunar stone. It bears the foUowing inscription: — To the Meraory of Major-General Sir Henry Lawrence, K.C.B., and the Brave Men who FeU In Defence of the Eesidency, A.D. 1857. The Great Imambara of Nawab Ausuf-ood-dowlah, is, perhaps, the most beautiful building of which the city of Lucknow can boast. The minarets by which it is adorned are very graceful, and, in consequence of their altitude, can be seen from afar. The principal haU of the edifice is very spacious; indeed, in this respect, it is alraost unsurpassed. This mausoleum, which is said to have cost one raUUon of poimds SterUng, was erected by Nawab Ausuf-ood-dowlah, who was the first King of Oude. According to EUiott, the king caUed upon aU the architects residing in India to pre pare plans of a mausoleum to be submitted to his notice. He further directed that it was not to resemble any other buUd ing of the kind, and that in point of magnificence it was to he without a rival. It is certainly an architectural gem. The Hoosain-Abad Imambara is also an imposing raauso leum. It contains the remains of Mohammed Ali Shah, Kmg of Oude, and grandfather of the ex-King Wajid Ali Shah. The remains, too, of the mother of Mohammed Ali 254 INDIA, Shah rest in this sarae cenotaph, A canopy of velvet, friaged with gold, overshadows these torabs. The large haU, the waUs of which are of poUshed raarble, is furnished with several chandeliers and crystal candelabra. It .stands, does this noble structure, in its own ornaraental grounds, and as it is endowed with twelve lacs of rupees, the whole buUding, and the grounds by which it is surrounded, are annuaUy, that is on the anniversary of the king's death, iUuminated without any regard to expense. On withdra-wing from Lucknow, where, during our sojoum, we had been raost hospitably entertained by Commissioner IngUs, we proceeded to Cawnpore, On our arrival at that place we became the guests of the Honourable Judge Prinsep, of whose kind attention towards us we entertain the most grateful remembrances, Cawnpore stands on the right bank of the Ganges. It is exceedingly weU laid out, and is inter sected by broad and weU-macadaraised roads. Many trees, too, have been planted in various parts of the settlement, and as the majority of these plants are evergreens, they, throughout the vaiious seasons of the yeai, impart to the place much shade and beauty. The banacks axe giand and imposing, and the grounds by which they are sunounded are veiy extensive. The bungalows, too, in which officexs and ci-vUians xeside, have a neat appeaxance. Each bungalow stands in its own grounds, which, as a rale, are beautified by shrabs of various kinds. The mutiny which in the years 1857 and 1858 spread devastation and death throughout certain parts of India have given to Ca-wnpore a historical interest. It may, we think, be safely asserted that the most melancholy events which occurred throughout the mutiny were those which transpired at this place. Almost imme diately after the outbreak at Meerut, a spirit of revolt ap peared to pervade the minds of the native troops who were then in garrison at Cawnpore. Sir Hugh Wheeler formed, therefore, a resolution to take possession of the barracks, ahd to convert them into an entrenched camp, which resolution he speedily carried into effect. Of British soldiers, however, INDIA. 255 he had but one hundred and fifty, together with a number of women and chUdren. No sooner had the entrenchment been formed than the native troops mutinied, and their first acts were to rob the treasury, to open the jails, and to set fire to the residences of the English. They then, acting on the advice of Nana Sahib, who was a Mahratta Brahmin, and the adopted son of Peshwa Bajikow, attacked the entrenched camp of Sir Hugh Wheeler, This general, -wdth his smaU force, bravely defended his position during a period of three weeks, when the garrison, ha-ving become greatly enfeebled, and he himself ha-ving received a severe wound, a desire to surrender was entertained. Ere, however, this gaUant band of Britons agreed to carry out this desire, Nana Sahib swore by the waters of the Ganges, that no evU should befaU them, and assured them that he would provide boats for their safe conveyance to AUahabad, No sooner, however, had the boats received their freights of human beings than in obedience to the orders of Nana Sahib they were fired upon, and aU save one were sunk. The women and children who remained, were, -with others who had come as fugitives from Futteghur, taken prisoners and confined in a hospital. At this juncture Sir Henry Havelock was hastening to Cawnpore from Alla habad, and Nana Sahib, upon hearing of his approach, sent out his troops to meet him. In several engagements or skirmishes which took place the Nana's troops were defeated. Before, however, Havelock entered the city, the Nana gave orders that aU the English woraen and their children were to be put to death, an order which was no sooner given than it was carried into effect, and the slain were one and aU cast by their cruel raurderers into a deep weU. The roora in which these helpless victims were so barbarously put to death was found by the English to be UteraUy stained with blood, aud the indignation which so sad a spectacle excited in the hearts of the beholders may be more easily imagined than described. Nana Sahib, after these diaboUcal deeds of blood, fled, and from that time up to the present no authentic tidings of him have been received. Over the mouth of the 256 INDIA. well into which the slain were cast, a magnificent monument in meraory of thera has been erected, and the grounds by which it is surrounded have been converted into a raeraorial garden. This garden is in itself a gera, to say nothing of its historical associations, and is raost deserving of a visit. The memorial church, around which so raany painful remem brances cluster, is also a gem in the city which it beautifies and adorns. Agra now claims our attention. This celebrated city is situated on the right bank of the Eiver Jumna. That branc? of this river fiowing near to the town becomes, during th& dry season of the year, vexy shaUow. Indeed, at one peiiod of time, so bare did the bed of this channel become, that it was cultivated " to the extent of one hundred and fifty acres annually, and yielded supeiioi maiket gaiden ciops. But the vegetation caused impurity to the watei and aii on the livei's banks, while the gaidens blocked up the passage to and from the city and the wateiside. Inconvenience was thus fiequently caused to loading and unloading the livei craft, and when the place was wanted foi the encampment of a native chief, it could not be used. Owing to this cii- curastance, the custom of cultivating vegetables in the bed of the livei has been abandoned." This city was founded by Akbai a.d. 1566. It is said that the name which is applied to it is derived from the word Agur, which means a salt-pan, and this derivation of the narae is feasible, inasmuch as at one time rauch salt was made here by evaporation. Formerly this city was the seat of the Lodi kings. It was here, too, that Babur established himself after defeating Ibrahim Khan, A.D. 1526, Its chief commercial products are cotton and salt. In regard to places of interest, it contains many large edifices, which stand as monuments of the wealth and gran deur of the kings of the Timurian dynasty of Hindostan, In our enumeration of these objects or institutions of historical interest let us, in the first instance, refer to the famous fort which was erected in the latter part of the sixteenth INDIA. 257 century by Akbar, ou tlie advice of Sheik Selim Chishti, the saint and hermit of Futtehpore Sikree. It is constracted of red waUs, which are about seventy feet high, and is fur nished with suitable flanking defences. It is approached by two entrances, of which that on the north side is very grand and imposing. This gateway is surmounted by a structure of singular design, flanked by two very large towers, and is further adorned by car-vings and mosaics. The last men tioned are inscriptions in large characters of black raarble, which are inlaid in slabs of white marble. Within this fort, the waUs of which we ought to observe are a mile and a half in circumference, are buUdings well deser-ving of something more than a passing reraark. The Motee Musjid, for ex ample, is a very imposing structure. It stands on a dais, is approached by a flight of steps, consists of three com partments, each of which is surmounted by a dome, and is entered by a very attractive arched gateway. The name Motee Musjid is appUed to it on account of its architectural beauty. The exterior is of red sandstone, but -within nothing is seen but white marble. A quadrangular court having in the midst a large basin for ritual ablution, is enclosed on three sides by arcades. On the fourth, facing the entrance, and raised some steps above the level of the court, is a large vestibule, the roof of which is supported by a great number of pillars. Above is a terrace surmounted by a noble dome, and on each side of this is one similar in shape, but of less size, A large and elegant kiosk rises at each extremity of the front, and in the interval between there are seven others, equidistant. The view of the spectator completely secluded within the precincts of this buUding, rests undisturbed on a scene of tranquU soleranity, .This Mahoraraedan house of prayer was erected in the name of Jehanara, a princess justly renowned for her fiUal piety, cheerfuUy sharing as she did the sorrows and trials of her father's capti-vity on his deposition and imprisonment by Aurungzebe. Of this princess Heber says that she was " one of the few amiable characters which the family of Timour s 258 INDIA. can show. In the prime of youth and beauty, when her father was dethroned and imprisoned * * * * by his wicked son Aurungzebe, she appUed for leave to share his captivity, and continued to wait on him as a nurse and ser vant untu the day of his death." The Dewan-i-Am, or PubUc Audience HaU, is also a place of interest, but it is not,- however, pre-eminent either for its grace or size. It was erected by Aurungzebe, The palace is indeed magnificent, " The substructures," says Bayard Taylor, " are of red sand stone, but nearly the whole of its corridors, chambers, and pavilions are of white marble, wrought with the raost exqui site elaboration of ornaraent. The paviUons overhanging the river are inlaid within and without in the rich style of Floren tine mosaic. They are precious caskets of marble, ghttering all over with jasper, agate, cornelian, blood-stone, and lapis- lazuU, and topped with golden domes. Balustrades of marble, wrought in open patterns of such rich design that they re semble fringes of lace when seen from below, extend along the edge of the battlements. The Jurana washes the waUs seventy feet below, and frora the balconies attached to the Zenana, or woraen's apartraents, there are beautiful views of the gardens and palra groves on the opposite bank, and that wonder of India, the Taj, shining Uke a palace of ivory and crystal about a mile down the streara. The most curious part in the palace is the Shish Mahal, palace of glass, which is an oriental bath, the chambers and passages whereof are adorned with thousands of smaU rairrors, disposed in the most intricate designs," Time would fail us were we to enter into details respecting the gates of Somnath, the white and black thrones, and the tUting-yard in which for the especial gratification of the Emperor and his nobles, staUions, elephants, and fighting animals were paraded. Let, then, this brief description of the fort, and the various stately structures which it contains, suffice. To the Taj Mehal we now turn our attention. This mau soleum so grand and imposing may, in point of design and architectural beauty, justly be regarded as one of the crowning INDIA. 259 edifices of the world. It 'was erected by the Emperor Shah- jehan Badshah Gazee, in order to receive the remains of Ins beloved Empress, Bunnoo Beguin or Mumtaz Mahal, who in A.D. 1630 died in giving birth to her eighth cluld. Here also the remains of the Eraperor Shahjehan, who died in 1666, were interred. This mausoleum is situated on the left bank of the Eiver Jumna, and at a distance of two mUes frora the city of Agra. It forras a most prominent object, and owing to its vastness, and more especiaUy to its altitude of two hundred and ninety-six feet, can be discerned afar off. It stands in ornamental grounds, which equal in extent five and twenty acres. To these grounds access is obtained by passing through an ordinary gateway. No sooner, however, has this gate been passed than a very high archway comes in view, and as we draw near we discover that its sides are covered 'with quotations or extracts from the Koran, which inscrip tions are recorded in letters or characters of white marble. This arched gateway admits the visitor into what raay be termed the raore ornaraental part of the grounds. The principal walks, by which they are intersected, are paved 'with flags, and bordered or fringed with cypress trees, and do'wn the centre there is a row of fountains. These grounds are kept in exceUent order by the Government. Indeed, so great are the pains bestowed upon them, and so perfect are they in aU their arrangements, as to reflect great credit not only upon the Government, but also upon the gardeners employed. Amongst the many fruit trees which these gardens contain may be mentioned the mango, orange, Ume, and guava. But now we are in fuU view of the Taj. It is raised on a large dais or platform. On the right, as well as on the left side of this platform, there is erected a doraed buUding of red sand stone ; and in proximity to each of the four corners of the Taj, there rises to an altitude of two hundred and twenty-five feet a graceful minaret. The top of each of these four noble towers is reached by a spiral staircase. As to the Taj itself, it is, says Bayard Taylor, " an octagonal buUding, or rather a square with the corners truncated, and each side precisely s 2 260 INDIA. similar. * * * * An oriental dome sweUing out boldly from the base into nearly two-thirds of a sphere, and tapering at the top into a crescent-tipped spire, crowns the edifice xising fxom its centxe, with foui similai, though much smallei, domes at the corners. On each side there is a gxand entrance formed by a single pointed arch, rising nearly to the cornice, and two smaller arches (one placed above the other) on either hand. The height of the building is two hundred and sixty- two feet, and of the minarets about two hundred feet. But no words can convey an idea of the exquisite harmony of the different parts, and the grand and glorious effect of the whole structure, with its attendant rainarets. The material is the purest white marble, Uttle inferior to that of Carrara. It shines so dazzUngly in the sun that you can scarcely look at it near at hand, except in the raorning and evening. Every part — even to the basement, the dome and the upper gaUeries of the minarets — is inlaid -with ornamental designs in marble of different colours, principaUy a pale brown and a bluish -violet variety. Great as the dimensions of the Taj are, it is as laboriously finished as one of those Chinese caskets of ivory and ebony which are now so common in Europe." Bishop Heber truly said, " The Pathans designed Uke Titans and finished Uke jeweUers." Around all the arches of the portals and the windows — around the cornice and the domes — on the -w^aUs, and in the passages are inlaid chapters of the Koran, the letters being exquisitely formed of black marble. It is asserted that the whole Koran is thus inlaid in the Taj, and I can readUy beUeve it to be true. The buUding is perfect in every part. Any dUapidations it may have suffered are so weU restored, that aU traces of them have disappeared. " I ascended to the base of the l)uUding — a gleaming marble platform, almost on a level with the tops of the trees in the garden. Before entering the central hall I descended to the vault where the beautiful Noorjehan is buried; a sloping passage, whose waUs and floor have been so poUshed by the hands and feet of thousands, that you must walk care fully to avoid sliding down, conducts to a spacious vaulted INDIA. 261 charaber. There is no Ught but what enters at the door, aud this faUs directly upon the tomb of the queen in the centre. Shahjehan, whose ashes are covered by a simpler cenotaph raised somewhat above hers, sleeps by her side. The vault was fiUed with the odours of rose, jasmine, and sandal-wood, the precious attars of which are sprinkled upon the tomb. Wreaths of beautiful flowers lay upon it, or withered around its base. These were the true tombs, the monuments for display being placed in the grand haU above, which is a lofty rotunda, Ughted both from above and below by screens of marble and jasper, and ornamented with a wainscoting of sculptured tablets representing flowers. The tombs are sarco phagi of the purest marble, exquisitely inlaid with blood stone, agate, corneUan, lapis-lazuli, and other precious stones, and sunounded -with an octagonal screen six feet high, in the open tracery of which UUes, irises, and other fiowers are inter- -wrought with the most intricate ornaraental designs. It is of marble, covered with precious stones. From the resemblance of this screen and the workmanship of the tomb to Floren tine Mosaic, it has been supposed that it was executed by an Itahan architect ; and I have even heard it stated that the Taj was designed by an ItaUan artist ; one look at the Taj ought to assure any intelUgent man that this is false — nay, impossible, from the very nature of the thing. The Taj is the purest saracenic in form, proportions, aud ornaraental designs. If that were not sufficient, we have stUl the narae of the Moslem architect sculptured upon the building. " I consider it extremely doubtful whether any Italian had anything to do -with the work, though it is barely possible he may have been employed upon the screen aiound the tombs. In the weekly account of the expenditure for buUdiag of the Taj there is a certain sum mentioned as paid to ' the foreign stone-cutter,' who may have been either Italian, or Turkish, or Persian, As for the flowers represented, on bas-reUef on the marble panels, it has been said that they cannot be found in India, Now these flowers, as near as they can be identified, are the tuUp, the iris (both natives of Persia), and 262 INDIA, the lotus. But I noticed a curious feature in the sculpture, which makes it clear that the artist was a native. The flowers lack perspective, which would never have been the fault of an ItaUan artist of Shahjehan's tirae — about the middle of the seventeenth century ***** The dome of the Taj contains an echo raore sweet, pure, and prolonged than that in the Baptistry of Pisa, which is the finest in Europe, A single musical note uttered by the voice, floats and soars overhead in a long, deUcious undulation; fading away so slowly that you hear it after it is silent, as you see, or seem to see a lark, you have been watching after it is swaUowed up in the blue vault of heaven. ***** Xhe haU, not withstanding the precious raaterials of which it is buUt, and the elaborate finish of its ornaraents, has a grave and solemn effect, infusing a peaceful serenity of raind, such as we feel when conteraplating a happy death. Stern unimaginative persons have been known to burst suddenly into tears on entering it ; and whoever can behold the Taj without feehng a thrUl that sends the moisture to his eye, has no sense of beauty in his soul, " I must add that on the opposite side of the Jurana there is an immense foundation tenace, whereon it is said Shahjehan intended to erect a tomb for himself of equal magnificence, but the rebeUion of his sons and his own death prevented it. A sheik, who takes care of the Taj, told me that had the Emperor carried out his design, the tombs were to have been joined by a bridge with a silver raUing on each side. He told me that the Taj with its gateways, raosques, and other buUdings attached, had cost seven crores of rupees, Spanish doUars 35,000,000, This is, however, quite irapossible, and I beUeve that the real cost is estimated at £1,750,000 (Spanish doUars 8,750,000), which does not seem exaggerated," Twice during our stay at Agra, that is once by dayhght and once by moonlight, did we visit this magnificent raauso leura, and on each occasion it -was with reluctance that we withdrew frora a scene so enchanting. On the occasion of our first visit several ladies of Portuguese descent arrived, INDIA. 203 and upon entering the vault strewed the tomb of the Em press Noorjehan with flowers. Each Sunday vast concourses of people — people, in short, of all reUgious creeds — have re course to the Taj for the purpose of making hoUday. Ou such occasions the outer portals of the garden in 'which the mausoleum stands, are surrounded by refreshment and fruit staUs at which the various holiday-makers sit, drink, and make merry. Secundra or Secundera, a village which is situated at no great distance from Agra, being celebrated as the burial place of Akbar, who, for a period of fifty years, that is from A.D. 1555 to 1605, reigned with alraost unparalleled wisdom and success over. India and Afghanistan, we went thither. The magnificent mausoleum, which contains the remains of this once powerful and warlike sovereign, stands in the centre of omamental grounds which in point of superficial area, equal fifty EngUsh acres. These grounds are adorned by orange, mango, banana, palm, and trees of other varieties. They are in the form of a square, are enclosed by a casteUated waU, and are approached on each side by a lofty and imposing gateway. Each of these gateways is constructed of red sand stone and surmounted by four rainarets. Of these, two which surmount the main entrance are in a very dUapidated state. This dUapidation is attributed by the natives to Lord Lake, who, shortly after his capture of the city of Agra, 1803, gave orders for the destruction of the minarets, as some of his soldiers had inadvertently fa,Uen therefrom. This statement is, we think, a most improbable one. There is, doubtless, greater truth ia another account, by which we are informed that the Jg,ts on the occasion of their sacking Agra, mutilated these once graceful pinnacles out of sheer wautonness. The pathways leading from these gates towards the mausoleum, are paved with slabs of stone. The mausoleum, which is in the forra of a square, each of its four sides being more than three hundred feet long, rises in terraces, which are four in number, to an altitude of one hundred feet. It is built of red sandstone, excepting the topmost story, which is formed 264 INDIA. thioughout of white maible. The fixst stoiy is enclosed by five aicades. The looms are plain, and contain many sarco phagi. The second stoxy has in its centxe a spacious hall, the light axched loof of which lests upon pUlais. Many diminu tive kiosks by which the sides and coxnexs of the tenace axe adorned, cause the whole buUding to look very attractive. The doraes of the kiosks were, doubtless, at one tirae, more iraposing than they are at present. To this conclusion we were led by the remains of glazed tUes and a tracery of marble work, which stiU exist. As the account which we have given of the second story appUes to the third, we pro ceed to observe that the fourth is surpassingly beautiful, and is buUt, as we have intimated in a preceding sentence, of white marble. Arcades, the marble lattice-work of which is most exquisite, form an open square over which spreads the canopy of heaven. Here, too, stands a sarcophagus. On the arches of the arcades the ninety-and-nine names of God are re corded in raised characters of black marble. On entering this vast sepulchre, we were conducted along a slanting passage or an incUned plane to a vaulted chamber. Hexe is the tomb in which xest the lemains of the once raighty Akbax. It is in the foxm of a saicophagus, and upou it devotees oi pUgrims, when on a visit to this place of sanctity, aie accustomed to deposit -wieaths of floweis. On the tomb axe lecoxded sevexal veises, which sing of the piaises of the departed monaich, whUe enciicUng the dooi- way are othei veises, which in puipoit aie simUai to those to which we have just lefeiied. In this sarae viUage of Secundra is the tomb of the Begum Marie. This princess, who was the wffe of King Akbai, is said to have been a Poituguese lady, and that she, being a Chxistian, pievaUed upon hei Mohararaedan husband to giant raany privUeges to hei co-ieUgionists, the Jesuits. There is, howevei, a doubt entextained as to whethei oi not King Akbai evei had a Christian spouse. As we were withdiawing fiom these tombs, we obseived a laxge waggon ox omnibus, laden with passengeis, which INDIA. 265 drawn by a pair of weU-harnessed caraels abreast, was pro ceeding towards Agra. The yoldng of caraels rather than horses to a vehicle of this nature was to us a singular and interesting novelty. A -visit to the city of Futtehpore Sikree, which is situated at a distance of twenty-two mUes from Agra, also afforded us much uiterest. This city, which is now in ruins, was for merly a noble place, and was for a short period — about twelve years — ^the seat of King Akbar's govemment. This soveieign with the -view of fortifying it, elected the lofty, xed sand stone waUs, by which it is sunounded to this day. But while the waUs, which, in point of ciicurafeience, aie seven English mUes, stiU reraain moie oi less intact, the city itself and its subuibs aie almost in a state of luin. A magnificent raosque and the royal palace axe, peihaps, the chief objects of inteiest which this city, of a past leno-wn, now contains. In following the load which conducts to these buUdings, we passed ovei masses of ciumbUng bricks, and thiough thiee veiy magnifi cent gateways. A flight of about thirty steps conducts to the mosque. At the head of this staiicase thexe stands a poxch, the gateway of which is suipassingly high. The couityaid of the mosque is also veiy spacious, being not less than foui hundred and thiity-six feet in length, and foui bundled and eight feet in bieadth. It is paved with slabs, and surrounded hy beautfful arabesques. Theie is a magniflcent mausoleum, in which rest the lemains of a Mohararaedan saint, who was styled Sheik SeUm Chishti, and who died on the 13th Feb ruary, A.D. 1572. The tomb, which is made of mother-of- pearl, is surmounted by a canopy, which consists of the same costly materials as does the tomb itseff. The waUs of the sepulchre are formed of white marble, inlaid -with cornelian, whfle its floor is paved with jasper. The marble screens by which the buUding is surrounded are very magnificent. The thin slabs of filigree work of which they consist are, we think, in point of workmanship and elegance of design, not to be siirpassed. But before we proceed further, let us pause to say a few 266 INDIA. words respecting Sheik SeUm Chishti, whose remains, as we have just stated, rest in this torab. Let it be observed, then, that he was a Mohararaedan herrait of great sanctity of cha racter, and that in consequence of his holiness, the wUd beasts of the forest not only came subdued into his presence, but several of them actuaUy Uved -with him in the cave which now forms his tomb. The many virtues which adorned his character attracted the attention of King Akbar, who in order to be near to a person so -wise and holy, resolved to build a palace at Futtehpore Sikree. This work was at once under taken and speedily accompUshed. King Akbar consulted this sage and ascetic on aU occasions, and, according to tradition, was at length indebted to him for an heU to his throne. Akbar being without a son, twice consulted Sheik Selim Chishti as to whether or not God would grant hun such a blessing. "No," said the sage, "it is not so -written." With this reply Akbar was not at aU satisfled. He, there fore, in the course of a few days, appealed to the sage a third time, but unfortunately with the same unsatisfactory result. Now the sage had a son who was six months old. This baby boy, who was aUeady reno-wned for his precocity, upon hearing the reply of the sage (his parent) exclaimed, " My father, why do you send away the conqueror of the world in despau- ?" " Because," said the sage, " there is no- son -written for him, unless another wiU give the Ufe of a chUd destined for him ; and who wiU do this ?" " If you wiU per mit me, father," said the infant, " I wUl die that a son may be born to the emperor," and alas ! before the sage could nod assent or dissent, the babe died. On that very day Akbar's queen conceived, and in due time an heir to his throne was born. On the north side of the quadrangle are tombs in which rest the reraains of certain woraen. Beyond, too, in a very- large raausoleura, is the sepulchre of Islam Khan, This per sonage, who was the grandson of Sheik Selim Chishti, was for sorae tirae during the reign of Jehangeer, Governor of Bengal, INDIA, 267 Our attention was now raore particularly given to the palace and its adjoining buUdings, Passing frora the mag nificent gate of the palace, we visited the house of Beerbul, who, owing to his -wisdom and erudition, became, despite his being a Hindoo, Akbar's prime minister. This house, which is two storeys high, is constructed of red sandstone, and is elaborately carved. Each of the lower chambers — and they are four in nuraber — is ceiled with slabs of stone, which are from twelve to flfteen feet in length, and one in breadth. As there is no timber used in the formation of these rooms, the ceilings are raade to rest upon bold cornices, forraed of deeply arched pendentives. The upper charabers are very siraUar in size and construction to those which we have just described. There is, however, this difference. Each room is covered by a domed roof. This is effected by placing a capstone upon sixteen sloping slabs, each of which stands upon an abutment, the whole supported on eight sides, rising from the four waUs of the room. In the rear of this residence there are fifty-one stables, each of which can accoramodate two horses. These stables are furnished -with mangers and halter-rings of stone. The doors, however, by which they were at one time enclosed, have apparently long since passed away. Near to the house of Beerbul stands that of the Beg-um Marie, Over the doors of this house, which is stiU in a fair state of preservation, are the remains of figures which repre sent, so we were told, the events of a celebrated poem, caUed Shah Nama, There are other frescoes, some of which are so mutUated as to render the deciphering of thera a matter of great difficulty. Of these frescoes, some represent Christian, and others Hindoo subjects. The Khwabagh, or place to which at noon the Emperor aud princess betook themselves, in order to enjoy a siesta, is very interesting. The Eraperor's bedroom, which is very smaU, is situated at the top of the buUding, but though its dhnensions are not great, it must, nevertheless, have been a comfortable abode, possessing, as it does, a most desirable aspect. Over each of its four doors, verses of poetry were 268 INDIA, painted, in the Persian language. The characters, however, of which these verses consist, are now very much defaced. The Khas MuhiU is a vast square or area paved -with slabs of red sandstone, Abu1;;ting on this courtyard there is, together with other buildings, a house in which an European woman, a native of Turkey, and a professor of Islanusm, resided. It is adorned with car-vings of various kinds. On the north-west of the Khas Muhul there is a small mosque, which stands in its own ornamental grounds, and was, doubtless, the sanctuary to which the ladies of the harem had recourse for prayer. The Punj Muhul, too, is an object of great interest. It is a five-storied colonnade, the first of which, consisting of fifty- six piUars, is broader than the second ; the second, consisting of thirty-five, broader than the third ; the third, consisting of fifteen, broader than the fourth ; and the fourth, consisting of eight, broader than the fffth. Indeed the topmost story, which consists of foux piUais only, is neithei moie noi less than a sraaU kiosk. As it is possible foi a peison when standing on this kiosk, to oveilook the apartraents and aieas of the women, it is supposed that it was the station of the female seivants. The Ankh Michaulee was the place which next leceived OUI attention. It was heie, so says tradition, that the Em- peioi was accustomed to play at blindman's buff, oi hide-and- seek -with the ladies of his zenana. The buUding iu question, howevei, was, in aU piobabUity, a place especiaUy set apart for the reception and safe keeping of records and other things of value. We are led to this conclusion by the fact that the various charabers of which it consists were evidently at one time closed by very strong doors. Near to the Ankh Michaulee stands a pavUion, the architectural design of which is very singular. It was the abode of a Hindoo philosopher, with whom King Akbar, a most tolerant Mohammedan, was accus tomed to discuss questions respecting his own and other creeds. The Dewan-i-Khas, or Pri-vy Council Chamber, is also INDIA, 269 worthy of inspection. In the centre of this hall we observed what is termed the throne of the kiuEr, and at its four corners, seats for the four ministers of the cabinet councU, It was here, so sa,ys tradition, that the king issued orders to his ministers of state for the four corners of the world. The Dewan-i-Am, or Hall of PubUc Audience, is also de serving of attention. It consists of a smaU chamber, which, being erected on a dais, overlooks a very spacious courtyard, enclosed on four sides by a colonnade, in which vast con courses of people could sit and witness the administration of justice. The waterworks by which water was xaised fxom the lake fox the seivice of the inhabitants of the various residences, was not at aU lacking in interest. The raising of the water was effected through the instrumentaUty of a series of Persian water-wheels, and a system of reservoirs. The celebrated elephant gate is, in oux opinion, a noble stmcture. On each side of it stands the figuie of an elephant, sculptured in stone. It is said that Akbai puiposed, at one time, to fortify this place, and in the fuitheiance of such inten tions, elected this gateway. The completion of this design was frustrated, howevei, by the sage Sheik SeUm Chishti, who declared that ff such woiks wexe continued, he would leave the place. The elephants' towex ox minaiet, which is, peihaps, eighty feet high, and studded fiom its base to its summit with lepre- seutations of elephants' tusks, is a singular object. As to the cause of this tower being buUt, difierent opinions are enter tained ; some assert that it was erected by Akbar over the tomb of a favourite elephant, while others maintain that it was constructed in order that the king might indulge in the pasthne of shooting antelopes from its summit. With this object in 'view, antelopes were driven past the tower, at which the king discharged weU-loaded barrels. Having now seen aU the objects of interest in Futtehpore Sikree, our guide conducted us to a point beyond the fort, in order that we might see foux ox five youths leap from its 270 INDIA. high walls into a deep pool beneath. Each youth, when faU ing through space, kept his arras and legs apart, but as he drew near to the surface of the pool, in the waters of which he was about to be submerged, he suddenly closed them, and, feet first, quickly passed out of sight. Speedily rising from the depths, he swara 'ashore, and presenting himself to us, de manded a smaU sum of money as a reward for his daring adventure. As we were withdrawing frora this interesting city, on our return to Agra, we saw several wUd peacocks. The sight of these beautiful birds, which are nuraerous in various parts of India, was a novelty and a treat to us. We also observed, as we were going along the roads, several prairie squirrels. These beautiful Uttle creatures were darting about in every direction, and were, apparently, not at aU alarmed at the near approach of traveUers. On leaving Agra, we proceeded by railway to Delhi where we were most kindly received and entertained by Mr. Taylor, of the Bank of Bengal. Indeed, it is to this gentleman that we are indebted, not simply for kind hospitaUty, but also for the very efficient services which he rendered us as a guide. The city of Delhi, and what we saw there, it is now our duty to describe. Let us begin, then, by observing that the site of the present city, which was founded by Shahjehan, a.d. 1631, stands at a distance of one mile from the right bank of the Eiver Jumna. As the traveUer approaches it from the south east he passes over the plain on which the ancient city of Delhi stood ; and at alraost every step which he takes, he comes in contact with interesting architectural vestiges of its former greatness and renown. Thus, "Everywhere throughout the plain rise shapeless, haff-ruined obeUsks, the reUcs of massive Pathan architecture, their bases being buried under heaps of ruins bearing a dismal growth of thorny shrubs. Every where one treads on overthrown waUs. Brick mosaics mark the ground-plan of the hurabler dwelUngs of the poorer classes. Araong the reUcs of a remote age, are occasionaUy to be seen raonuraents of a light and elegant style of architeo- INDIA. 271 ture, embeUished with briUiant colours, gilt domes, and mina rets encased in enamelled tUes." But it is on the new city of Delhi we have now more par ticularly to write. It is enclosed by a wall which is five and a half miles in circumference, and is approached by ten gates, which are named the Calcutta Gate, Cashraere Gate, Moree Gate, Cabool Gate, Lahore Gate, Farash Khanah Gate, Ajmere Gate, Turkoman Gate, Delhi Gate, and the Eaj Gate. It is intersected by many broad and weU macadamised streets, which, being under the super-vision of an exceUent municipal councU, are kept in good order. With the -view of aUaying the dust, they are regularly watered by means of water-carts, and in order to keep thera sraooth, they are ever and anon traversed by steara rollers. Of these various streets, that which is styled Chandnee Chouk is, per haps, the raost important. It is very broad, and consists of many shops, in which almost aU kinds of articles are exposed for sale. The first place of interest to which we directed our steps was a piece of high ground which, during the siege of the city, at the time of the Indian Mutiny, was occupied by the right battery of the British army. On this ridge there stands a monument of elegant and chaste design, which is one hun dred and ten feet high, and commands in consequence a beautfful -view of aU the surrounding country. It was erected, at a cost of 21,400 rupees, to coraraeraorate the capture of the city of Delhi by British troops. Affixed to each side of its base are slabs or shields, on which are re corded the names of the brave men who fell in the fierce struggle with which the capture of the city of Delhi was attended. On our way to this raonument we -visited the new cemetery, and stood for some time by the grave in which rest the lemaias of General John Nicholson, who Uved and died a great man. This brave soldier, having led his raen, the first column, through a breach near to the Cashmere Gate, and having subsequently captured the Cabool Gate, was, while leading on his raen in a narrow lane under the waUs 272 INDIA. of the city to approach and capture a breastwork of the enemy, shot from a window. To mark the spot where this born soldier fell, alraost in the hour of victory, a slab bearing a suitable inscription has been let into the city wall. The Delhi Institute, wbich is situated in the Chandnee Chouk, and which was erected at a cost of 135,457 rupees. failed not to interest us very rauch. This noble institution, which is a credit to the municipal councU and European in habitants of Delhi, contains an excellent Ubrary, a museum, which is weU furnished with valuable specimens of various kinds, a haU of audience, and large assembly rooms. In front of this buUding which is, in truth, an ornament to the city of Delhi, stands a beautiful clock tower, which is one hundred and twenty-eight feet high. This useful appendage to a large city, has four dials, and a chime of five beUs. The Queen's Gardens being in close proximity to the Delhi Institute and clock tower, we hastened thither. These gardens, which are watered by Ali Merdan's canal, are most tastefully laid out, and equal, in many respects, the best kept grounds of which even Great Britain can boast. They partake, too, of the nature of zoological gardens, containing a few cages in which, tigers, leopards, panthers, hyaenas, jackals, otters, monkeys, birds, and snakes are confined. There is, also, in these gardens a statue of an elephant, which at one period of its history, was of a solid piece of black marble, but now consists of fragments only. It appears that formerly there were two such figures, and that on the back of each, the effigy of a man, sculptured in red sandstone, was represented as riding. Of these two figures, one is said to have been that of a person caUed Jaymal, and the other, that of a friend and companion of his named Patta. It is re corded of these two raen that, when in the flesh, they were slain at Agra in the sight of King Akbar, for haviag been guilty, when in his royal presence, of too great a freedom of speech. They did not die, however, without a struggle. On the contrary, they fought bravely for their lives; and this INDIA. 273 manly act, on their part, having greatly coraraanded the pleasure and approbation of the Iring, statues of them were appointed by His Majesty to be sciUp tured in red sandstone, iu order that they raight be placed as raonuraents at one of the principal gates of the city. This coramand was obeyed. From Agra, however, they were eventuaUy reraoved to Delhi, in obedience, it is said, to the commands of Aurungzebe, who, being a strict Mohararaedan, and opposed, of course, to idolatry, regarded them as idols. They were discovered in the fort at Delhi sorae tirae during the year 1863, where, having becorae corapletely covered with ddbris, they had, for many years, remained unobserved. The statues of Jaymal and Patta are at present deposited in the Delhi Museum. Of the whereabouts of the other statue, representing an elephant, we could gather no particulars. As we were returning in our carriage on our way to the house of our kind host, Mr. Taylor, we crossed a sraaU rivulet in the bed of which were several water snakes. On a small boulder, too, the surface of which was above the water, clus ters of these reptiles were, apparently, reposing. As no one attempted to disturb thera, we very naturaUy concluded that they were regarded by the inhabitants with a degree of rever ence and awe. The fort or palace of Delhi, which is a very interesting object, was founded in 1638, by the Eraperor Shahjehan. It is enclosed by a waU of red sandstone, which is a mile and a-half in cUcumference, and is approached by two noble gateways, known by the names of Lahore and Delhi The Lahore Gate, the one by which we entered the fort, conducts mto an arched vestibule of great length. To this porch hght and air are adraitted by means of a weU-formed aper ture or skyUght. On reaching the great court-yard of the fort, we du-ected our steps to the Dewan-i-Ara or Hall of PubUc Audience, " It is a large haU open at three sides and sup ported by rows of red sandstone pUlars formerly adorned with gUdiag and stucco work. In the waU at the back is a stair case that leads up to the throne, which is raised about ten T 274 INDIA, feet from the ground, and is covered by a canopy supported on four piUars of white marble, the whole being curiously inlaid with mosaic work ; behind the throne is a doorway by which the Emperor entered from his private apartments. The whole of the waU behind the throne is covered with mosaic paintings in precious stones of sorae of the most beautiful fiowers, fruits, birds, and beasts of Hindostan, Most of them are represented in a very natural manner. They were exe cuted by Austin de Bordeaux, who, after defrauding several of the princes of Europe by means of false gems which he fabricated with great skUl, sought refuge at the court of Shahjehan, where he made his fortune and was high in favour with the Emperor, In front of the throne, and sUghtly raised above the floor of the hall, is a large slab of white marble, wluch was formerly richly inlaid -with mosaic work, of which the traces only now remain." The Dewan-i-Khas, or Pri-vy Council Chamber, is a chamber in which nobles only were received by their majesties of Delhi The hall in question " is a very beautiful pavUion of white marble supported on massive piUars ofthe same material, the whole of which, with the connecting arches, are richly ornamented with flowers of inlaid raosaic work of different coloured stones and gUding. It is raised on a terrace four feet high, the floor of which is coraposed of flags of white marble. Between each of the front row of piUars is a balus trade of marble . chastely carved in several designs of per forated work. The top of the buUding is ornamented with four marble paviUons with gilt cupolas — the ceiling of the pa-viUon was originaUy completely covered with sUver filigree work.* In the cornice at each end of the interior haU is sculptured, in letters of gold, and in the Persian language, " If there be a paradise upon earth, it is this, it is this ! " " In this haU was the famous Peacock Throne," so caUed from its ha-ving the figures of two peacocks standing behind * " In 1759 the Mahrattas, under Sedasheo Bhas, after the capture of the city, took this down and melted it, the value of the same being estimated at £170,000."— Harcourt. INDIA, 275 it, theu tails being expanded, and the whole so inlaid with sapphires, rubies, emeralds, pearls, and other precious stones of appropriate colours, as to represent Ufe, The throne itself was six feet long by four feet broad ; it stood on six massive feet, whieh with the body, were of soUd gold, inlaid with rubies, emeralds and diamonds. It was surmounted by a canopy of gold, supported by twelve piUars, aU richly em blazoned with costly gems, and a fringe of pearls ornamented the borders of the canopy. Between the two peacocks stood the figure of a parrot of the ordinary size, said to have been carved out of a siagle emerald. On either side of the throne stood a chatta or umbreUa, one of the oriental emblems of royalty ; they were formed of crimson velvet, richly embroi dered and fringed with pearls, the handles were eight feet high, of soUd gold, and studded with diaraonds. The cost of this superb work of art has been variously stated at sums varying from one to six miUions of pounds sterling. It was planned and executed under the supervision of Austin de Bordeaux, aUeady raentioned as the artist who executed the mosaic work in the A' am Khaas,"* The Pearl Mosque and the baths of the king, together ¦with those set apart for the ladies of the zenana, are weU worthy of inspection. The masonry of marble work of which they consist, and the mosaics by which they are adorned, render them very attractive. The Jumna Musjid, which is, perhaps, one of the raost magnificent raosques in India, and which was built in Shahjehan's reign at a cost, it is said, of more than £100,000, well repaid the -visit which we made to it. The faff propor tions of which it can boast cannot, we think, be so well and accurately described by us, as they are by Beresford, Let us have recourse then to his words : — •'' It has three entrances by handsome gateways of red sandstone, which are approached * " The Peacock Throne, with nearly all the treasures in the imperial city were taken away by Nadir Shah, the Persian conqueror, who, defeating the reigning Emperor, Mahomed Shah, at Kurnaul, A.D. 1739, marched with that sovereign in his train into Delhi." — Harcourt. T 2 276 INDIA. by magnificent fUghts of steps of the same material The piincipal gateway is to the east side, and is much longei and handsomex than those on the noxth and south.* They aU lead into a laxge quadiangle paved with fine laige sandstones, in the centre of which is a raarble reservoir of water. On the west side of the square stands the mosque itself, which is of an oblong form, 201 feet in length, and 120 feet broad, and surmounted by three superb cupolas of white marble crowned with cubices or spues of copper richly gUt, The front of the buUding is partly faced with white marble, and along the cornice are the compartments each ten feet long and two and a haff feet broad, which are inlaid with black raarble inscrip tions in the Niski character,! The interior is paved through out with slabs of white marble three feet long by one and a haff broad, each decorated with a black border, which gives it an extremely beautiful appearance. Part of the inner waU is also faced with plain white raarble. Near the kibla or that part which indicates the dUection of the city of Mecca, is a hand some tag or niche, adorned with a profusion of rich frieze work, and though joined in several places, appears to have been cut out of a soUd block of white marble four feet high and six feet in length. The mosque is flanked by two minarets 130 feet lugh, composed of white marble and red sandstone placed verti- caUy in alternate stripes, and access is obtained to the top of them by fUghts of narrow steps of red sandstone in the interior ; at about equal distance there are three projecting galleries, and they are crowned with Ught paviUons of white marble. Three sides of the terrace, on which this magnificent edifice stands, are enclosed by a colonnade of sandstone, and each corner is ornamented by octagonal pavUions of white marble ; the sup porting columns being of red sandstone. In the quadrangle at the north-east and south-east are low piUars, on the top of which are fixed marble slabs, on one of which is engraved the * " This gateway is now closed by order of Q-overnment, and it is only a year or two ago that the mosque was restored to the Mohammedans," — Harcourt, t " These give an account of the sum spent on the building,"— Harcourt. INDIA. 277 eastern hemisphere, on the other there are raarked certain hour lines ; each has an upright iron spike or gnoraon, and the shadows shown by the sun indicate to the faithful the time of prayer.'' Ere we quitted these sacred precincts, we were in-vited by om- guides to enter a sraall room which stands in a corner of the great quadrangle of the mosque in order that we might see and examine sorae reUcs of Mahoraet. Accepting this iu'vitation, we entered the room in question, and there saw a shoe which our guides maintained had been worn by Maho met. A piece of marble, too, on which was a print of a human foot was, at the same tirae subraitted to our notice on the score that it was positively an impression of the foot of that false though powerful prophet. Locks of the hair of that great man were also handed to us. And, finaUy, a book ia which were Arabic characters written by two of his imme diate relatives, came under oux notice. Finding that we wexe vexy sceptical, the guides, aftei demanding backsheesh as a lewaid foi the attentions which they had shown us, in dignantly -withdrew fiom oui piesence. Oui couise was now dUeoted towaids the Delhi Gate of the city, in oidei that we might see the famous stone piUai, -which is denominated Feioz-Shah's Lat. Accoiding to Feigusson, this column is one of seven pUlais which, having texts of Buddhist doctrines engiaved on them, were placed as a means of conveying instraction in front of Buddhist temples. There is a Hiadoo legend, however, which sets forth the fol lowing absurd account of the piUai. Itwas, says this mytho logical lecoid, the pastoial staff of the god of shepheids, who when raaking it fast in the gxound declared that despite all outwaid ciicurastances, it would leraain in that position until the day of judgment. Feioz-Shah, a Mohammedan piince, who reigned from a.d. 1351 to a.d. 1385, upon hearing this extravagant stoiy, xesolved to convince his Hindoo subjects of its absurdity. He, theiefoie, with this object in view, issued comraands foi its immediate xemoval fxom its foimei position to the site which it now occupies. It is upwaids of 278 INDIA. foity-two feet in point of altitude. Upon it are caxved various insciiptions of these lecoids, one evidently the most ancient, consists of tbe famous leligious edict of Asoka, who, it appeals, flourished about 270 B.C. Accoiding to General Cunningham, this edict of Asoka concludes with the fol lowing woxds : — " Let this leligious edict be engraved on stone pillais and stone tablets, that it may enduie fox evex." The rained city in which this pUlax now stands is caUed Feiozabad. It was foiraeily of vast extent, and was so caUed in honoui of Fexoz-Shah, who was its foundei. Pioceeding stUl fuxthei ovei the site on which foiraeily stood the city of Ferozabad, we anived in the neighbouihood of the vUlage of Aiab-ke-Sexai, Hexe we halted fox the puipose of visiting the raassive and immense mausoleum of the Erapeioi Humayon, This stiuctuie, ciowned by an im mense maible dome, was eiected by Haji Begura, the widow of the Empeioi, It stands on two xaised platfoiras. Of these platfoims, the lowei one is thiee feet high, and twenty- five feet broad, and upon it rises the second. This mauso leum, which stands in its own extensive grounds, contains many royal tombs. In the centre of the buUdiag, however, stands the raarble sarcophagus of the Eraperor Humayon, This sovereign, who commenced his reign a,d, 1530, expe rienced many vicissitudes of fortune. Thus his throne was usurped by Shir Shah, and in order to avoid faUiag a victim to that usurper's jealousy, he had to escape to other lands. He, at length, ha-ving suffered many hardships by the way, reached Persia, in which kingdora he was courteously received and hospitably entertained by the sove reign of that country. It was during his residence, however, at this court, that he was prevailed upon, reluctantly it is said, to erabrace the Shea creed of Mohammedanism, Having made other concessions, the King of Persia resolved to aid the fugitive sovereign in recovering the throne of his fathers. The first step which was taken in the furtherance of this object was the capture of Candahar — a movement this which eventually led to the recovery of the whole of his lost pos- INDIA, 279 sessions. He had not, however, re-occupied the throne more than six months, when he unfortunately feU from the stair case of his library, and the injuries which he sustained on this occasion were of so serious a nature as to baffle all huraan skUl, They terminated fataUy on the fourth day following the accident. This melancholy event occurred in the year 1556, We cannot conclude our remarks on this mausoleum with out obsei-ving that, in close proximity to it, Hodson captured and suraraarUy put to death the sons of the Eraperor of Delhi, after the surrender of the city to the British in the year 1857, In describing this tragical occurrence, Hodson -writes as foUows : — " I laid ray plans so as to cut off access to the tomb or escape from it, and then sent in one of the infe rior scions of the royal family (purchased for the purpose by the present of his Ufe), and my one-eyed Moulvie Eajub Ali, to say that I had come to seize the Shahzadahs for punish ment, and intended to do so, dead or alive. After two hours of wordy strffe and very anxious suspense, they appeared and asked ff their Uves had been proraised by the Governraent, to which I answered, most certaiiUy not, and sent them away from the tomb towards the city under a guard, I then went with the rest of the sowars to the tomb and found it crowded, I should think, with some 6,000 or 7,000 of the servants, hangers-on, and scum of the palace and city, taking refuge in the cloisters which Uned the waU of the tomb, I saw at once that there was nothing for it but determination and a bold front, so I deraanded, ia a voice of authority, the instant surrender of theu arms, &c. They immediately obeyed with an alacrity I scarcely dared to hope, for in less than two hours they brought forth from innuraerable hiding-places some five hundred swords, and more than that number of fire arms, besides horses, bullocks, and covered carts caUed ruths, used by women and eunuchs of the palace, I then arranged the arms and ammals in the centre, and left an armed guard with thera, whUe I went to look after ray prisoners, who, with their guard, had moved on towards Delhi I came up just in 280 INDIA. time, as a large raob had coUected, and were turning on the guard ; I rode in among them at a gaUop, and in a few words I appealed to the crowd, saying that these were the butchers who had murdered and brutally used helpless women and chUdren, and that Government had now sent their punish ment, and seizing a carbine from one of my men, I deUbe rately shot them one after another," We may add that the corpses of these unhappy princes were afterwards conveyed into the city of Delhi and exposed to view. On the morning foUowing our visit to the ancient stone piUar, or Feroz-Shah's Lat, as it is generally caUed, and the tomb of the Eraperor Huraayon, we drove to Kootub and its ruins. On our way thither, we visited several objects of interest. Thus, for example, after haviag stopped for a few minutes to visit the ruins of a very ancient observatory, we proceeded to Suffer Jung's tomb, or, rather, to the tomb of Munsoor Ali Khan, Suffer Jung being merely an honorary title which that personage. Vizier of Ahmed Shah, Emperor of Delhi, had received at the hands of his royal master. This raausoleura, which was erected at a cost of £30,000, and which, in point of architectural design, resembles the Taj at Agra, is situated in its own ornaraental grounds, which are in the forra of a paraUelograra, and enclosed by a high red waU, At each of the four corners of this boundary are erected pa-vilions of red sandstone, and at the base of the waU are ceUs which are especially set apart for the reception of pUgriras and wayfarers. The raausoleum, which is a noble structure, surmounted by a marble dome, stands on a dais, and was erected by Nawab Sheya-oo-dowlah, son of Suffer Jung, as a resting-place for the remains of his father. Beneath there is an ordinary grave. In the centre of the first floor, however, there is an elaborately-carved and highly-polished marble sarcophagus. This raausoleura is, at one and the sarae tirae, a tomb and a monument worthy of the man whose remains it covers, for he was, it appears, not only a " daring and intrepid soldier," but a " good man and an up right magistrate,'' It is not by any means ancient. This INDIA. 281 wUl appear evident when we state that the Eraperor Ahmed Shah, whose vizier. Suffer Jung was, reigned frora a.d. 1748 to A.D. 1754. We now turned aside to visit four tombs and a mosque, which face the gateway of Suffer Jung's torab. Thence we directed our course to three tombs, caUed the Tir Boorja, and afterwards, to the torab of Mobarik Shah. The latter, which is built of Khana stone, stands in the viUage of Mobarik- pore, and was erected, in aU probabiUty, in 1543. In a Uttle time, we anived at the celebrated tower, called Kootub Minar, in regard to the early history of which rauch doubt is apparently entertained. There is one account which states that the Hindoo Eajah Pithora began to erect a tower on the site of the present coluran, at the suggestion , of his daughter, who was anxious to see daily, not simply the roUing waters of the Eiver Jumna, but to behold, also, from its lofty surarait, the rising and the setting sun. Now, great doubts are entertained as to whether or not this magmficent piUar was coraraenced by the Hindoo Eajah Pithora. It is, however, very evident that its corapletion was effected by Mohammedans rather than by Hindoos. For we are weU assured that it was finished about the year 1235, that is, during the reign of Shumsh-oodeen Altomsh. It is said that, in point of altitude, there is no tower in the world to equal it. This, however, for anything we know to the contrary, may be a rash statement, as its height does not exceed two hundred and thirty-eight feet. It is a fluted column, and is buUt of red sandstone. There are, however, two bands of marble-work towards its top. In order to ascertaia some particulars respecting this tower, we have only to give our attention to the six scroUs of inscrip tions which are carved upon its exterior surface. Thus, " the uppermost band contains only some verses from the Koran, aud the next below gives the weU-known ninety names (Arabic), of the Alraighty. The third belt contains the name and praises of Manz-ooden Abul Muzafur Mahomed Bin Sam. The fourth belt contains only a verse from the Koran, 282 INDIA. and the fifth belt repeats the narae and praises of the Sultan Mahoraed Bin Sara. The lowermost belt has been too much injured, both by time and by ignorant restorations, to admit of being read ; but Syud Ahmud has traced the words Amir- ool Amra, or Chief of the Nobles. The inscription over the entrance doorway records that the minar of Sultan Shumsh- oodeen Altomsh having been injured, was repaired during the reign of Sekundra Shah, son of Behlol, by Futeh Khan, the son of Khawas Khan, in A.H. 909 or A.D. 1503. In the second story, the inscription over the doorway recoxds that the Empeioi Altorash oideied the completion of the rauiai. The loweimost belt contains the veises of the Koran lespect- ing the summons to piayei on Friday, and the uppei Une contains the piaises of the Empeioi Altomsh. Ovei the doox of the thUd stoxy, the piaises of Altomsh aie lepeated, and again in the belt of insciiptions lound the column. In the fourth stoiy, the dooi inscription lecoids that the miuai was oideied to be eiected during the leign of Altorash, The inscription ovei the dooi of the fifth stoiy, states that the minai ha-ving been injuied by lightning, was lepaiied by the Erapeioi Feroz Shain in A,H, 770 oi A,D. 1368." But let us now bring oui lemaiks on this towei to a close by observing that in 1826 the British authorities expended the sum of £2,000 upon it. At the time these repairs were effected, a pa-viUon of an octagonal shape was erected on the summit of the minar. It was, however, in obedience to the orders of the Govem raent, but for what reason we cannot explain, eventually xemoved. It now stands on the giound in close pioximity to the towei. In the sarae neighbouihood, theie stands an unfinished minai oi towei, which is 257 feet in ciicurafeience, aud 87 feet in height. It is constiucted of veiy rough stone, a fact which has led some wiiteis to the conclusion that it was the intention of the buildei to have faced it with led sand stone. It was coraraenced, says Syud Ahmud, a.d. 1311. The fai-famed solid iron pillax, which is xegaided by INDIA. 283 General Cunningham as "one of the most curious monu ments in India," next came under our notice. It is of no great height, being not more than twenty-six feet above the level of the earth. It is conjectured that it was erected by Eajah Dhava, A.D. 319, as a triumphal or monumental coluran. This supposition is entertained on the score that the name of the sovereign to whom we have just refened is engraven upon its side. There is, however, in regard to this pillar, a legend to the effect that Eajah Pithora, being apprehensive that his dynasty was about to corae to an end, consulted the Brahmins as to the measure which ought to be adopted with rhe view of pre venting such a calamity. These wise men urged him to drive an Uon piUar into the earth, and thus to pierce the head of the snake-god, Lishay, upon whom the world was supposed to rest. For, said they, if you succeed in pene trating his head -with the shaft the sceptre wUl never depart from your famUy. The pillar was forthwith constructed, and driven into the earth. The Eajah, however, beconung, in due course of time, anxious to ascertain whether or not he had succeeded in his purposes, commanded his servants to draw out the pUlar, when to the astonishraent of all present, it was discovered that the end thereof was stained with blood. The Brahrains, in the infinity of their wisdom, knowing that the dragon could not be caught a second time, declared that the dynasty of the Eajah would shortly come to an end. The disconsolate sovereign, despite the glooray predictions of the Brahmins, resolved to capture the dragon a second time if possible, and, with this object in view, drove the pillar once more into the earth. But, alas, his plans failed, and, ere a great length of time had elapsed, his Ufe and sceptre were wrested from him by Shahab-oodeen, and from that time to the present, Delhi has been without a Hindoo sovereign. Space and time would faU us were we to attempt to describe the other ruins of Kootub, such as the Musjid-i- Kootub-oohlslara, the tomb of Shumsh-oodeen Altomsh, the palace of Ala-oodeen, the gateway of Ala-oodeen, Adam Kahn's 284 INDIA. torab, and the Fort of Lalkot, Let us, therefore, make a passing observation respecting the royal tombs and the di-ving tank in MehrowUe, These tombs, which certainly have no pretensions to architectural beauty, are close together in a smaU ceraetery, and contain the dust of once powerful kings. Each of the tombs, at the time of our visit, was covered with a shroud or pall, and around them were assembled many devotees. The diving tank at MehrowUe is more than eighty feet in depth, and is enclosed by a lofty waU. Now, with the view of amusing traveUers and others, who visit MehrowUe, several expert divers leap from the top of this high wall into the adjoining tank beneath. Of these divers some are young and others aged men. Like the divers at Futtehpore Sikree, they, when passing through the air, expand .their legs and arras, but before they reach the surface of the waters, they quickly close thera, and, Uke an anow, pierce with their feet the turgid pool. On withdrawing from the tank, they rush wUdly into the presence of the traveUers, and demand smaU pecuniary presents, as a reward for their feats of leap ing and diving. In the neighbourhood of MehrowUe we saw several wild peacocks, which, like those we had pre-viously seen at Futteh pore Sikree, were conspicuous for their beautiful plumage. It was now time for us, the sun being near the hour of its setting, to return to Delhi. Entering oux caniage, theiefoie, we diove lapidly in the direction of that city. On xeaching its gates, it being now daxk, we observed a toichUght pioces- sion appioaching us, and as it drew neai we discovered that it was a Hindoo funexal procession, moving towaxds the funeral pyie on which it was their intention to bum the coipse of one who, only a few houis befoie, had been lemoved from this earthly scene. As they advanced towards the place of cremation, they sang a funeral dirge, which was evidently one of a raost plaintive nature. And here, it raay not be out of place for us to mention a few particulars which, during our travels in India, we learned respecting the man- INDIA. 285 ners aud customs, which are observed by Hindoos at the celebration of funeral obsequies. When a Hindoo dies, his heir is caUed upon not ouly to perform the necessary funeral ceremonies, but also the monthly and annual rites of purifi cation. The latter are performed, firstly, dm-ing the eleven days which iramediately foUow the death of a relative ; secondly, each month ; and, thirdly, on the anniversary of the death. These customs vary, however, according to the social position of the bereaved family. Thus, Brahmins on the death of a relative are regarded as unclean for ten days, soldieis foi twelve days, merchants for fifteen days, and shirdras for thUty days. The rights of purification consist, in a great raeasure, in presenting eucharistical offerings of rice, flowers, and water to the soul of the deceased, in order to enable it to pass into the heaven of the Pitras or progenitors of the great human fanuly. The Hindoos, as we have already intimated, burn thah dead. The bodies of all infants, however, who die under two years of age, are buried. We now retraced our steps from Delhi to Allahabad, and proceeded thence to Jubbulpore. On our arrival (at 6 a,m,) at the station of the last-mentioned city, we hastened to the principal hotel of the place with the -view of bathing, break fasting, and ananging all the necessary preUminaries for a trip to the famous marble rocks which are in the neighbour hood. At 10 o'clock A.M., a gharry, dra-wn by a pair of horses, drove up to the door of the hotel, and, on the waiter iuformiug us that it was at our service, we imraediately took our seats, and drove towards the rocks in question. On our way, we saw in close proximity to a vUlage through which we passed, a number of monkeys, which were running to and fro in a state of great deUght, We were at a loss, however, to ascertain whether or not these animals were from some of the neighbouring woods, or firom one of the temples. In the latter case they would be regarded, as is the case with the sacred monkeys at Benares, as so many gods and goddesses. We also -visited en route some smaU lakes, which, in our estimation, were very little superior to duck ponds. On 286 INDIA, reaching the end of our journey, a distance of ten miles from Jubbulpore, we took up our quarters in a very neat and com fortable bungalow, and in which, by an active Hindoo mess- man, suitable refreshments were quicldy prepared for us, Ha-ving refreshed the inner man, we visited the marble rocks. In this geological forraation, which is a very singular and interesting one, deposits of fossil remains, including those of the elephant and other ponderous quadrupeds, have been dis covered. The space which is enclosed by these rocks is covered with water, and thus a vexy small but beautiful lake pxesents itself to view. Enteiing a boat we lowed the length of this rock- bound pool. As we were engaged in this in- teiesting puisuit," sevexal monkeys wexe spoxting themselves on the tops of the sunounding rocks, whUe peacocks and wild pigeons were flying over our heads. Sticking to the sides of the rocks were several clay or mud-buUt nests, which were entered by very sraaU circular apertures, and were the homes of many swaUows, which, in search of prey, were swiftly skiraraing over the surface of the waters. Having spent a pleasant hour on this miniature lake, we proceeded to the banks of the Eiver Nerbudda in order to inspect a rapid or fall of water. As the season, at the time of our visit, was very dry, we were not very much edified by the appearance of the faU, but we can quite understand that during the rainy season of the year, when the river is fuU of water, this rapid is rather imposing. We now ascended a long and dUapidated stone staircase, formed on the side of a somewhat high and precipitous hUl, in order that we raight exaraine the ruins of a Hindoo temple, which was founded many centuries ago. It occupies the whole summit of the hill, is open to the heavens, and is enclosed by a circular wall or colonnade of stone. It contains a great number of mutilated stone idols, which represent, of course, as many gods and goddesses. There are also not a few antique-looking male and female lingas, which, judging frora what we saw on the occasion of our visit, still continue to receive homage at the hands of the INDIA, 287 inhabitants of the viUage which stands at the base of the hill. On our return to the bungalow, three or four women came to the door and offered for sale several eggs, large and smaU, sculptured in marble. Thinking they would make ex ceUent paper weights, and serve as a memento of our visit to the rocks of Jubbulpore, we bought several of them. We afterwards learned that they are made by the natives to represent lingas, which things are, of course, as we have aheady shown, regarded by the Hindoos as objects of worship and adoration. But as the evening was now drawing near, it was high time for us to return to Jubbulpore, a • moveraent, how ever, which was attended with difificulty, as both the gharry horses were evidently unequal to their work. After much beating and occasional coaxing, they succeeded in perform ing half the journey, but beyond this point, they could not possibly proceed. Fortunately for us, however, an empty gharry, which was returning towards Jubbulpore, arrived at the spot where we had corae to a dead-stand, and the driver, perceiving the awkward position in which we were placed — ¦ the night being now far advanced and very dark — agreed to yoke his horses to our gharry and drive us to our hotel. Thus, after the lapse of several hours, a journey of ten EngUsh mdes only was accompUshed. Our indignation was gxeat, as the landlord of the hotel had promised, when we ordered the gharry, to provide us with a pair of strong horses. His con science e-vidently smote him, and urged hira, no doubt, to keep out of the way of those upon whom he had so shamefuUy imposed, as we did not see him again. On the foUowing raorning, rising early, we visited Jubbul pore itseff. It has exceUent banacks for troops, and a school of mdustry, in which prisoners are engaged in manufactur- hig carpets and other useful textures. It is intersected by broad and well-macadamized roads. Before taking leave of this place, let us mention that it was here, on the 19th of December, 1817, that General Hardyman, at the head of 288 INDIA, a British force of 1,100 men, defeated, according to Fitz clarence, 5,000, and according to Blacker, 3,000 Mahrattas, the troops of the Eajah of Nagpore, We now went by raUway to Nandgaum, which is a country station on the north-eastern extension of the Great Indian Peninsular EaUway, Thence we proceeded by Tonga gharry to Aurungabad, which is a pretty place, being adorned, as it is, with neat bungalows and fine trees ; the roads, too, are broad and well macadamized. The city is enclosed by a low red waU, which at intervals is fortified by round towers, and is garrisoned by troops of the Nizam. It was within the waUs of this city that Aurungzebe kept his court. The palace, howevei, which he built, is now a rain lathei than a habitable residence. A raausoleura, which he also erected, and in which rest the reraains of his daughter, Eabia Durani, is supposed — though, of course, in aU respects, very inferior — to be an imi tation of the Taj Mehal, In the afternoon of the day on which we visited Aurungabad, a fair was held in an open space beyond the walls of the city. Men and women, of different creeds and castes, were present on the occasion in large nurabers, and exposed coraraodities of various kinds for sale. Purchasers, too, were very nuraerous. As the persons forraing this asserablage were clad in oriental costumes, the whole scene was to us one of rauch interest, Frora the Commissioner, Colonel Wright, and the officers of the EngUsh garrison at Aurungabad, we received great kindness. Thus, upon hearing that it was our intention to visit the Nizam's faraous fortress at Dowlutabad, and the rock-cut caves at EUoia, they procured foi us an oidei from the Nizara's secretary to visit the fortress in question, and at the sarae tirae gave coraraands, by letter, that, on our anival at Ellora, we were to be received and entertained at their bungalow. Thus provided with orders and letters, we proceeded by Tonga ghany to Dowlutabad, which is situated at a distance of eight mUes from Aurungabad, The sun was so powerful and the wind so hot, as to cause us to experience great discomfort both of mind and body, during our joumey. INDIA, 289 At the close of an hour's drive, we reached the stronghold of Dowlutabad, which is one of the oldest, and, perhaps, one of the strongest works of the kind in India, It consists of an isolated hUl, or rather a vast gxanitic rock, which attains an altitude of five hundred feet. The sides of this hiU, to a height of one hundred and fifty feet from the base, are quite perpendicular, and encircling the base of the hUl, there is a moat, spanned by a very narrow bridge. Beyond this moat there stands a raonuraental column, in the style of a minaret, which commemorates, so we were told, the capture of the fortress by its present holders, the Mohamraedans. The sum mit of the hUl, on which is placed a piece of ordnance, is approached by gaUeries and staucases, which are not visible from without. At the base of the hUl there is a low doorway, which is enclosed by an iron door, through which we obtained admission into a low narrow passage, hewn out of the solid rock. This passage conducted us into a large chamber, which is also hewn out of the soUd rock. Thence we passed along an ascending gaUery, wlUch is, perhaps, ten or eleven feet high and as many broad, to a recess, from which we obtained a ghmpse of the surrounding country. As we passed through these various passages, gaUeries, and caverns, it was necessary for us, owing to the darkness, to carry burning torches. Moving onwards, along narrow and very perpendicular paths and steps, open to the heavens, guarded by strongly-fortified works, we at length reached the highest point of the fortifica tion. On our way to the summit, we passed a large rock-bound cistern, which is supposed to contain forty hogsheads of water, a cistern of this nature being at aU times a necessary appendage to a fort, but especially so in tiraes of siege. It was, we beUeve, the intention of the Emperor Mohammed, son of Toghluk Shah, to make Dowlutabad the raetropolis of his kingdom, and with the view of fulfilling that intention, he caUed upon the citizens of Delhi to forsake that city, and to seek new homes and occupations in Dowlutabad. Allegiance, however, to this imperial coramand they refused to pay, and 290 INDIA, thus Dowlutabad possesses, as it always has done, a deserted and neglected appearance. Again' having recourse to our Tonga ghany, we drove at a rapid rate towards Ellora, -with the -view of visiting the rock-cut temples, for which it is so justly renowned. On our way we observed a gxeat numbei of piaiiie squirrels, which Uttle creatures, fuU of frolic, were ranning about in eveiy dUection, and pioved to us, as we drove along, a souice of much arauseraent. On oux anival at EUoxa, the night being fax advanced and veiy daik, it was with difificulty that, on aUghting frora the ghany, we found our way along the raountain road which conducts to the bungalow at Eosa, in which we were to pass the night. The Hindoos, who were employed to carry our baggage, and to act as our guides, being Ught of foot, speedUy out- walked us, and as we did not know our whereabouts, and were unable, owing to the darkness, to find our way, we were, for a time, sorely perplexed. Our Chinese servant, too, ha-ving been outstripped by us, became greatly afraid, and feeUng, perhaps, that he was sunounded by e-vil spUits — for in such spUits the Chinese are great believers — ^he, in the very depths of despair, began to caU aloud for aid. Hearing his cries of woe, we imme diately retraced our steps in order to comfort him — a task which we succeeded in accompUshing, The baggage-bearers and guides becoming alarraed at our delay, sallied forth in search of us, and were indeed reUeved of a load of anxiety when they found us slowly and uncertainly groping our way along the mountain path. On reaching the bungalow, we found that the doors were locked, and the messman from home, so there was, therefore, no alternative for us to adopt but to sleep supperless on the floor of the conidor. Ha-ving stretched ourselves out on the hard pavement, we vainly endeavoured to woo sleep. After an hour or two, however, three armed sepoys, who had heard of our arrival, came to inspect us, and upon finding that we were not only good men and true, but also provided with a letter from the EngUsh officers at Aurungabad, to whora the bungalow belonged, they INDIA, 291 ordered the messman to receive and entertain us. The doors of the bungalow were unlocked, and an exceUent supper and comfortable beds were then prepared for us. On the following morning, being refreshed with a good mght's rest, we des cended the hill, in order to view the rock-cut temples in tlie vaUey beneath. These teraples, which are he'wn in high precipitous rocks, consist in a great raeasure of two storys. The roofs are, in some instances, supported on huge aud elaborately carved stone pUlars, In the majority of these temples there are dark ceUs, which are regarded by archaiologists as the cham bers in which the Hindoo priests or ascetics were aeeustoraed to reside. They contain many stone idols, and a few lingas. Of these various temples, however, the most extraordinary is caUed Kylas, which is said to equal if not to surpass in extent aud grandeur the best specimens either of Indian or Egyp tian architecture. The Kylas, which is six hundred feet in cUcumference, and one hundred and twenty feet high, is formed out of a single rock, and is conical in form. It con sists of one large hall, and several smaller charabers, each of which not only contains raany colossal idols, but also sculp tures, which we greatly admired. Our admiration, however^ attained its highest pitch when we gazed upon the rich sculptures and arabesques -with which the exterior of the edifice is beautified and adorned. The base of the temple is, as it were, supported on the backs of elephants and other wUd ammals, which are one and aU sculptured in statuary of stone. As we were inspecting one of the inner apartments of the lower story of this temple, a jackal, which had made his lair within, was greatly alarmed at our presence, and, much to our astonishment, rushed wildly between our legs and made his way with all haste across the neighbouring plain. In the third story of another temple a fakir, or hermit, had taken up his abode. The body of this wretched man was UteraUy covered with raud, and his hair clotted with ashes. Indeed, so miserable was his pUght as to render hira a spectacle loath- u 2 292 INDIA, some to behold. Whilst we were reflecting on this man's misguided religious feeUngs, we were surprised at hearing the sounds of the hoofs of a horse in the story below that in which we were standing. On descending thither, we found that a Hindoo traveUer had just arrived, and who, apparently knowing of no accoraraodation for his horse in the adjacent town or -viUage, had brought hira to the upper charabers of this teraple, to feed and rest. The chief teraple bears the name of Earaeswur, Time and space, however, would fail us were we to attempt to give even a brief description of these extraordinary works of art, aU of which, extending over the distance of an English mile, we had the privilege to visit. Let our readers, therefore, if they would learn many interesting par ticulars respecting these rock-cut temples, refer to Fergusson's celebrated work upon them. It may suffice then, for us, in concluding our remarks on these architectural geras, to observe that the Hindoos declare they were forraed nearly 8,000 years ago, at the suggestion of Eajah Geloo, son of Peshfont of ElUchpore, The Mohararaedans, on the other hand, state that the town of Ellora was founded, and its teraples excavated by Gel Eajah, who flourished about nine hundred and seventy years ago, " The mythological symbols and figures through out the whole, leave no room to doubt their o-wing their existence to reUgious zeal — the raost powerful and most uni versal agitator of the human mind." Ha-ving thoroughly explored these temples, we directed our steps to the town of Ellora. The only object of interest, however, which we could discover in our rarables through this apparently deserted place, was a magnificent water tank. It was of considerable depth, and the masonry of stone work of which it was constructed corabined great neatness and durabUity. It contained, at the time of our -visit, much ex cellent water, and was, in consequence, largely patronised by the inhabitants, who, chiefly women, carae in nurabers to draw suppUes for culinary and domestic purposes in general from its source. We now returned by our Tonga gharry in an almost direct INDIA. 293 course to Nandgaum, which place we reached shortly after midnight. The Dak Bungalow, which is situated in close proximity to the railway station, afforded us such comfortable accoraraodation that we resolved to stay there twenty-four hours, with the view of recruiting our strength, which, owing to our recent visit to the caves of Ellora, and night traveUing in a Tonga gharry, had been too severely taxed. Taking the mail train at Nandgaum, we proceeded on our journey to Bombay. On our arrival at the last-mentioned place, we were most kindly entertained by various raembers of the wealthy and influential faraUy of Sassoon. Indeed, the genuine kindness which they showed us in a variety of ways, we shaU ever most gratefuUy remember. On the morning foUowing our arrival, we drove in Mr. S. Sassoon's caniage through some of the principal streets of the city of Bombay. Several of them are not only wide, but weU macadamised, and vastly superior in regard to the costly and magnificent buUdings by which they are formed, and the brUUant manner in which they are Ughted by night, to the principal streets of raany of the provincial cities of Great Britain. Malabar HiU, which is bestudded with beautiful vUlas, each standing in its own weU-arranged grounds, com mands au extensive -view of the sea, and in point of the salu brity of its climate is, indeed, raost desirable as a place of residence. The streets of the city, in which respectively, Parsees, Hindoos, and Mohamraedans reside, have a most oriental appearance, and to the European tourist prove, in consequence, especiaUy attractive. As in European cities, carriages, cabs, and gharries of various kinds roU with a rumbUng noise along the streets, whUe here and there are to be found traraways, which, on the payment of a small sum, cany passengers from one part of the town to another. The supexioxity of Bombay ovex Calcutta is, we think, veiy striking, and owing to the many advantages which it possesses ovei the lattei city, theie can, be no doubt that it 294 INDIA. wUl eventuaUy become the capital city of India, and, as such, the seat of government. The residence of the Governor of Borabay, which is a noble mansion, weU situated, and approached by a long carriage drive, would form an ex cellent palace for the Viceroy of India. In the course of a few years great changes are effected, and one of the changes which is Ukely ere long to take place in India is the removal, so we predict, of the seat of government from Calcutta to Bombay. But let us now proceed to observe that in our drives through the streets of Borabay, the first place of interest which we -visited was St. Thomas's Cathedral, which may be described as a spacious and lofty buUding, with a high tower, and was founded in the year 1718, at a cost of 43,992 rupees. This sum was, in a gxeat measuie, contributed by piivate indi-vidvals, the donation to the fund on the part, of the Govemraent, not having exceeded 10,000 lupees. Neaily a centuiy latei, that is, in the yeai 1816, it was conseciated by Bishop Middleton. Within the last few yeaxs the chancel has been lengthened. In it is the tomb of Geneial Cainac, who was second in command at the battle of Plassy. Gas, too, has lecently been intioduced into the buUding. It contains several monuments. Thiee of these, two of which aie by Bacon, and one by Chantrey, may justly be le- gaided as woiks of ait. One of Bacon's sculptures is in hon our of Mi. Duncan, whom it lepiesents in the act of receiving blessings at the hands of Hindoos. The inscription lecoided on the tablature of this monuraent reads as foUows : — In Meraoiy of The Honourable Jonathan Duncan, Govemoi of Borabay from 1795 to 1811. Eecommended to that high office by his talents and integxity. In the dischaige of vaiious important duties in Bengal and Benaies, His purity and zeal foi the public good were • •, INDIA. 295 equaUy conspicuous During his long and upright administration at this Presidency. With a generous disregard of personal interest. His private Iffe was adorned By the most munificient acts of charity and friendship. To aU classes of the coramunity. To the natives in particular, he was a friend and protector. To whom they looked with unbounded confidence and never appealed in vain. He was born at Wardhouse, in the county of Forfar, in Scotland, On the 1st of May, 1756. Came to India at the age of 16 : and after 39 years of uninterrupted service. Died at this place on llth August, 1811. Infanticide aboUshed in Benares and Kattywar, Several of the British inhabitants of Bombay Justly appreciating his distinguished merits In public and private Ufe, Have raised this monument As a tribute of respect and esteem, MDCCCXVII, The monument to which we have refened as a work of art by Chantrey, is in honour of Stephen Babington, The inscription recorded thereon is by the celebrated judge, philo sopher, and writer, SU James Mackintosh. On leaving the cathedral, we repaired to the townhaU, which proved well deserving of a visit. Indeed, it may be regarded as a manifold institution, as it contains not only the councU chamber, but also a haU, Ubrary, asserably, and levde 296 INDIA, rooms. The library, which was founded by Sir James Mackintosh, contains several thousands of exceUent works. The haU in question is also adorned with statues in honour of Ulustrious men, such as Mountstuart Elphinstone, Sir John Malcolm, Sir Charles Forbes, Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, and others. Of these statues, three or four are exceUent produc tions by Chantrey. The walls of the council chamber are covered -with portraits of rajahs and others who have figured conspicuously in Indian history. In front of the townhall, there is a tastefuUy arranged and well-kept garden, in the centre of which a fountain sends forth refreshing streams. In this garden are two statues, of which one, by Bacon, is in honour of the Marquis Cornwallis, On the pedestal of it is recorded the foUowing highly-eulogistic inscription : — This monument is consecrated By the British Inhabitants of the Presidency of Bombay, To the name and character of Charles, Marquis Cornwallis, K,G., Governor-General of India, Who resigned in Ghazepoor, in the Pro'vince of Benares, On the Sth of October, 1805, A life dedicated to the service of his King and country ; But more especiaUy devoted. In its regretted close. To the restoration of peace in India, And to the promotion of the best interests Of the East India Company. Infiexible and steady courage, A sacred fidelity in poUtical trust. Purity and singleness of heart, A temper the rainor of that purity, A reflective and well-disciplined judgment In the most arduous conflicts. INDIA. 2 'J 7 A dignified simpUcity of manners, And the most elevated sense of honour. Every pubUc -virtue and spirit. Every gentle and graceful affection. Made him universaUy Admired, Eevered, And Beloved ; The ornament of his country and of the age, A model to posterity. The Mechanics' Institute, which is a very neat building, founded by that great philanthropist, the late David Sas soon, for the especial benefit of young men and others, who are not in a position to becorae members of clubs, consists of a library and reading-room, Ananged on the shelves of the hbrary we observed a large nuraber of most exceUent and useful woiks, whUe the leading-ioora was weU suppUed with neaily all the leading periodicals and journals of the day. In the buUding there stands a weU-sculptured full- length marble statue of the late David Sassoon, whUe above the entrance-door of the institute, there is placed a bust of ^ that same Je-wish worthy, whose raeraory, owing to his many exceUent and useful works of charity, must ever reraain fresh and green in the hearts of aU who have any connections or associations with Bombay. The museum, which was founded with a view to the exhibition of the raw products and manufactures of India, and for the purpose, too, of Ulustrating the process of irapor tant manufactures, is a very handsorae building. In front of this edifice, there stands a lofty clock-tower which was erected, if we mistake not, at the expense of the phUan- thropist, to whom we have just referred, the late David Sassoon, The interior of the rauseura being decorated in a manner which displays great artistic skiU, is very iraposing. The haU is very grand, and the gaUeries are equally attractive. 298 INDIA, As yet, though not very weU flUed with objects of interest, it nevertheless contains many exceUent specimens of con chology, geology, and zoology, together with raodels of various kinds. Of these models, one, which is an exact representa tion of the tower of silence, the place where the Parsees deposit their dead, is especiaUy instructive. As we shall, presently, have occasion to describe this tower of sUence, we shaU make no coraraents respecting it here. In the haU of this institution there are two or three statues. Of these one is in honour of the late Earl Canning, and contains on its pedestal the following inscription : — Charles John, Eari Canning, G,C,B., K,S,I., Viceroy and Governor-General of India, The grateful Tribute of The Native Inhabitants of Borabay, 1864, A second raonument is in honour of Mountstuart Elphin stone, It bears the foUowing inscription : — Mountstuart Elphinstone, The Tribute of the ElphinstoniaUs. Borabay, 1860. A third monument is in honour of the late Prince Con sort, and upon it is recorded an inscription which reads thus : — Albert Prince Consort Dear to Science, Dear to Art, Dear to thy Land and Ours. INDIA. 299 " A Prince indeed." Dedicated hy Da-vid Sassoon, 1864. Beneath this inscriJ)tion there is one engraved in the Hebrew tongue ; and on the obverse side of the monument there are inscriptions in Mahrattan, Guzeratti, and Persian, A marble bust of David Sassoon is placed at the head of the first staircase, by which the gaUeries of the museura are approached, and on the pedestal on which the bust stands, is the foUowing brief inscription : — Da-vid Sassoon. Let us now make a few remarks on the public gardens, which, though extensive and weU-laid out, are by no means weU kept. The shrubs and plants, tropical and otherwise, which these gardens contain are nuraerous and various, and to the student and lover of botany are a source of much enjoyment, affording hira both instruction and pleasure. In the centre of the gardens there stands a large fountain, which plays at aU hours, A pond, too, well stocked with gold fish, proves very attractive to visitors. In one corner of the gar dens there stands an ancient Mohararaedan raosque and torab, and in another there is placed, under a canopy, resting upon pillars of stone, a bust of Lady Frere. The gardens which we are now describing also contain leopards, panthers, hytenas, monkeys, deer, adjutants, peacocks, and parrots. The wUd beasts which, as a raatter of course, were confined in iron cages, were noble specimens of the natural history of India, and, as such, added greatly to the attractions of the gardens. From these gardens we drove to a large institution in which horses and asses no longer able to work, together with cows, buffaloes, sheep, goats, calves, deer, dogs, and cats, which ha-ving become useless, are not only housed, but weU fed. At the time of our visit to this singular establishment 300 INDIA. thexe wexe also a numbei of pigeons, paiiots, quails, xabbits, guinea pigs, &c., &c. This institution, which is suppoited by Mohamraedans and Hindoos, owes its oiigin to the teachin« of the Koian and that also of the writings which are le- gaided as sacied by the Hindoos. To the Towei of SUence, oi the place where the Paisees deposit theii dead, we next repaired. But as it is contiaxy to the leligious tenets of that people to allow any peisons excepting those whose duty it is to place the dead iu the towei, to entei it, we were not suffeied to pass its portals. Flora the grounds, howevei, in which it stands we had a good view of its outei waUs, and from the model of it, which, as we have already stated, is contained in the rauseum, we had pieviously acquired a perfect knowledge of its internal ar- * rangeraents. For the benefit of our readers we wUl give here a description of it, and similar towers, by Mr. Monier WUUams, Boden Professor of Sanskrit. It reads as foUows : — " At a time when the attention of the British pubhc is attracted Uresistibly towards the Queen's Indian Empire a short account of a visit I have lately paid to the Parsee ' Towers of Silence ' may possibly be read with interest. Your columns have probably already contained a record of the Prince of Wales's visit to the sarae locality, and through the kindness of Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy the very same pri vileges of inspection which his Eoyal Highness enjoyed were accorded to me. " Your readers are doubtless aware that the Parsees are descendants of the ancient Persians who were expeUed from Persia by the Mohararaedan conquerors, and -«'ho first settled at Surat about 1,100 years ago. According to the last census they do not number more than 70,000 souls, of whom about 50,000 are found Ui the city of Bombay, the remainuig 20,000 in different parts of India, but chiefly iu Guzerat and the Bombay Presidency. Though a mere drop iu the ocean of 240 mUlion inhabitants, they forra a raost important and influential body of men, emulating Europeans in energj and enterprise, rivalling them in opulence, and imitatin;. INDIA, 301 them in many of their habits. Their vernacular language is Guzerati, but nearly every adult speaks English with 'fluency, and English is now taught in aU their schools. Their benevolent institutions for the education of at least 1,000 boys and girls is in a noble building, and is a model of good management. Their reUgion, as delivered in its original purity by their prophet Zoroaster, and as pro pounded in the Zend-Avesta, is monotheistic, or, perhaps, rather pantheistic, in spite of its philosophical dualism and in spite of the apparent ¦worship of fire and the eleraents, re garded as -visible representations of the Deity. Its raorality is summed up in three precepts of two words each—' good thoughts,' ' good words,' ' good deeds ;' of which the Parsee is constantly rerainded by the triple coU of his white cotton girdle. In its origin the Parsee system is allied to that of the Hindu Aryans — as represented in the Veda — and has much in common with the more recent Brahraanisra. Neither religion can make proselytes. " A man must be born a Brahraan or a Parsee ; no power can convert him into either one or the other. One notable peculiarity, however, distinguishes Parseeism. Nothing simi lar to its funeral rites prevaUs among other nations ; though the practice of exposing bodies on the tops of rocks is not unusual among the Buddhists of Bhotan. " The Dakhmas, or Parsee Towers of Silence, are erected in a garden, on the highest point of Malabar HiU, a beauti ful rising ground on one side of Back Bay, noted for the bungalows and compounds of the European and wealthier mhabitants of Bombay, scattered in every direction over its siuface. " The garden is approached by a weU-constructed private road, aU access to which, excei^t to Parsees, is baned by strong iron gates. Thanks to the oranipotent Sir Jarasetjee, no obstacles irapeded ray advance. The raassive gates flew open before me as if by magic. I drove rapidly through a park-hke enclosure, and found the courteous Secretary of the Parsee Punchayal. Mr. Nusserwanjee Byramjee, await- 302 INDIA ing my arrival at the entrance to the garden. He took me at once to the highest point in the consecrated gi-ound, and we stood together on the terrace of the largest of the three Sagris, or Houses of Prayer, which overlook the flve Towers of SUence. This principal Sagri contains the sacred fire, which, when once kindled and consecrated by solemn cere monial, is fed day and night -with incense and fragrant sandal, and never extinguished. The view frora this spot can scarcely be surpassed by any in the world. Beneath us lay the city of Bombay, partiaUy hidden by cocoanut groves, -with its beautiful bay and harbour gUttering in the brUliant Decembei Ught, Beyond stietched the magiuficent ranges of the ghauts, while iraraediately aiound us extended a gaiden, such as can only be seen in tropical countries. No EngUsh nobleraan's garden could be better kept, and no pen could do justice to the glories of its flowering shrubs, cypresses, and palms. It seemed the very ideal, not only of a place of sacred sUence, but of peaceful rest, " But what are these five cUcular stractures which appear at intervals rising mysteriously out of the foUage ? They are siraply masses of masonry, massive enough to last for centuries, buUt-^ of the hardest black granite, and covered with white chunam, the purity and smoothness of which are disfigured by patches of black fungus-like incrustations. Towers they scarcely deserve to be called; for the height of each is quite out of proportion to its diameter. The largest of the five, buUt -with such soUd granite that the cost of erection was three lacs of rupees, seeraed about 40 feet in diaraeter and not more than 25 feet in height. The oldest and the smaUest of the five was constracted 200 years ago, when the Parsees first settled in Borabay, and is now only used by the Modi faraUy, whose forefathers built it, and here the bones of many kindred generations are commingled. The next oldest was erected in 1756, and the other three during the succeeding century, A sixth tower stands quite apart from the others. It is square in shape, and only used for persons who have suffered death for heinous crimes. The INDIA, 303 bones of convicted criminals are never aUowed to mingle with those of the rest of the comraunity, " But the strangest feature in these strange, unsightly struc tures, so incongruously interraixed with graceful cypresses and palras, exquisite shrubs, and gorgeous flowers, remains to be described. Though wholly destitute of ornament, and even of the siraplest moulding, the parapet of each tower possesses an extraordinary coping, which instantly attracts and fascinates the gaze. It is a coping forraed, not of dead stone, but of Uving -vultures. These birds on the occasion of ray -visit had settled theraselves side by side iu perfect order and in a complete cUcle around the para pets of the towers, -with their heads pointed inwards, and so lazUy did they sit there and so raotionless was their whole mein that, except for their colour, they might have been carved out of the stoaawork. So rauch for the external aspect ofthe celebrated Towers of SUence, After they have been once consecrated by soleran cereraonies no one except the corpse-bearers is allowed to enter ; nor is any one, not even a Parsee high priest, perraitted to approach within 30 feet of the iraraediate precincts. An exact raodel of the interior was, however, sho-wn to rae, " Imagine a round column or massive cyUnder 12 or 14 feet high, and at least 40 feet in diameter, buUt throughout of soUd stone, except in the centre, where a weU 5 or 6 feet across leads down to an excavation under the masonry, con- , taining 4 drains at right angles to each other, terminated by holes fiUed with charcoal, Eound the upper surface of this soUd circular cyUnder and completely hiding the interior from view is a stone parapet, 10 or 12 feet in height. This it is which, when -viewed frora the outside, appears to form one piece -with the soUd stonework, and beiag, Uke it, covered with chunam, gives the whole the appearance of a low tower. The upper surface of the soUd stone column is divided into 72 compartments, or open receptacles, radiating Uke the spokes of a wheel from the central weU, and arranged in three concentric rings, separated from each other by narrow 304 INDIA. ridges of stone, which are grooved to act as channels for con veying aU raoisture frora the receptacles into the weU and into the lower drains. It should be noted, by-the-by, that the nuraber ' 3 ' is embleraatical of Zoroaster's three precepts, and the nuraber ' 72 ' of the chapters of his Yasna, — a por tion of the Zend-Avesta. " Each circle of open stone coffins is divided from the next by a pathway, so that there are three circular pathways, the last encirchng the central weU, and these three pathways are crossed by another pathway conducting from the solitary door which admits the coi-pse-bearers from the exterior. In the outermost circle of the stone cofifins are placed the bodies of males, in the raiddle those of feraales, and in the inner and sraaUest cixcle, nearest the weU, those of chUdren. " While I was engaged with the Secietaiy in examining the model, a sudden stii among the vultures made us raise our heads. At least a hundred birds coUected round one of the towers began to show symptoms of excitement, whUe others swooped down frora neighbouring trees. The cause of this sudden abandonment of their previous apathy soon re vealed itself A funeral was seen to be approaching. How ever distant the house of a deceased person, and whether he be rich or poor, high or low in rank, his body is always carried to the towers by the official corpse-bearers, caUed Nasasaldr, who form a distinct class, the mourners walking behind. As the bearers are supposed to contract impurity in the discharge of their duty, they are forced to Uve quite apart frora the rest of the community, and are, therefore highly paid. " Before they remove the body from the house where the relatives are assembled, funeral prayers are recited, and the corpse is exposed to the gaze of a dog, regarded by the Parsees as a sacred animal This latter ceremony is called Sagdid. " Then the body, swathed in a white sheet, is placed on a curved metal tiough, open at both ends, and the coipse- beaieis, diessed in pure white gaiments, pioceed with it INDIA. 305 towaids the toweis. They are foUowed by the moumeis at a distance of at least 30 feet, in paiis, also diessed in white, and each couple joined by holding a white handkeichief between them. The particulai funeial I witnessed was that of a chUd. When the two coipse-beaieis reached the path leading by a steep incline to the dooi of the towei, the moumeis, about eight in numbex, tumed back and enteied one of the piayei houses, ' Theie,' said the Secietaiy, ' they repeat certain Gathas, and pray that the spu-it of the deceased may be safely transported on the fourth day after death to its final resting-place,' " The tower selected for the present funeral was one in which other merabers of the sarae famUy had before been laid. The two bearers speedUy unlocked the door, reverently conveyed the body of the chUd into the interior, and, unseen by any one, laid it uncovered in one of the open stone recep tacles nearest the central weU, In two rainutes they re appeared with the erapty bier and white cloth ; and scarcely had they closed the door when a dozen vultures swooped down upon the body, and were rapidly foUowed by others. In five minutes more we saw the satiated birds fly back and lazUy settle down again upon the parapet. They had left nothing behind but a skeleton. Meanwhile the bearers were seen to enter a building shaped Uke a huge barrel. There, as the Secretary inforraed rae, they changed their clothes and washed themselves. Shortly afterwards we saw them come out and deposit theU cast-off funeral garments on a stone receptacle near at hand. Not a thread leaves the garden, lest it should carry defilement into the city. Perfectly new garments are suppUed at each funeral In a fortnight, or at most four weeks, the same bearers return, and with gloved hands and implements resembling tongs place the dry skeleton in the central weU, There the bones find their last resting-place, and there the dust of whole generations of Parsees commingUng is left undisturbed for centuries,"The revolting sight of the goiged vultuies made me X 306 INDIA. turn my back on the towers with Ul-concealed abhonence. I asked the Secretary how it was possible to become recon ciled to such a usage. His reply was nearly in the foUowing words : — ' Our Prophet, Zoroaster, who lived 6,000 years ago, taught us to regard the elements as syrabols of the Deity. Earth, fire, water, he said, ought never, under any circum stances, to be defiled by contact with putrefying fiesh. Naked, he said, we came into the world, and naked we ought to leave it. But the decaying particles of our bodies should be dissi pated as rapidly as possible, and in such a way that neither Mother Earth nor the beings she supports should be con taminated in the sUghtest degree. In fact, our Prophet was the greatest of health ofificers, and, following his sanitary laws, we build our towers on the tops of the hUls, above all huraan habitations. We spare no expense in constructing thera of the hardest materials, and we expose our putrescent _ bodies in open stone receptacles, resting on 14 feet of sohd granite, not necessarUy to be consumed by 'vultures, but to be dissipated in the speediest possible manner, and without the possibUity of poUuting the earth or contaminattag a single liviag being dwelUng thereon. God, indeed, sends the 'vul tures, and, as a raatter of fact, these birds do their appointed work rauch raore expeditiously than milUons of insects would do if we committed our bodies to the ground. In a sanitary point of -view nothing can be more perfect than our plan. Even the rain water which washes our skeletons is conducted by channels into purffying charcoal. Here in these five towers rest the bones of aU the Parsees that have Uved in Borabay for the last 200 years. We forra a united body in life, and we are united in death. Even our leader. Sir Jam setjee, Ukes to feel that when he dies he wiU be reduced to perfect equaUty with the poorest and hurablest of the Parsee community.' "When the Secretary had finished his defence of the Towers of Silence, I could uot help thinking that however much such a system may shock our European feeUngs and ideas, yet our own method of interment, if regarded from a INDIA. 307 Parsee point of -view, may possibly be equaUy revolting to Parsee sensibUities. " The exposure of the decaying body to the assaults of innumerable worms may have no terrors for us, because our survivors do not see the assailants ; but let it be borne in mind that neither are the Parsee survivors permitted to look at the swoop of the Heaven-sent birds. Why, then, should we be surprised ff they prefer the more rapid to the more Ungering operation ? and which of the two systems, they may reasonably ask, is more defensible on sanitary grounds ? " We have already stated that we were not suffered to enter the Tower of SUence, of which the foregoing is an interesting account. And we raay now go on to observe that we were also not permitted to inspect the temple in which the Parsees are aeeustoraed to asserable for prayer. The latter building, however, is not very interesting. It contains, we are told, as an emblem of deity, and therefore an object of veneration, a sacred fue, which is kept continuaUy burning by priests clad in white robes. This sacred fire, which was, raany centuries ago, brought by the Parsees from Persia, was, to the great grief of that people, extinguished in the year of our Lord 1870 or 1871, by some Mohararaedan fanatics. In order to rekindle it, messengers were dispatched by the Parsees to a remote place in Persia, where a siraUar fire had also for several centuries been kept in continual glow, to bring from it the required Ught. This mission was successful, and now a sacred fire burns as before within the waUs of the Parsee Temple at Bombay. Two benevolent institutions, namely, Su Jamsetjee Jejeeb- hoy's hospital, and David Sassoon's Industrial and Eeformatory Institution next demanded our attention. Of these establish ments the former, as its name in sorae respects iraplies, was erected at the expense of the late East India Company and Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, for the reUef of the native sick poor. It contains five hundred and thirty-five beds. More over, there is attached to this asylum a hospital for incurables, X 2 308 INDIA, containing thirty beds, and an obstetric institution having thirty beds. There are also adjoining dispensaries, at which men, women, and children receive medical advice daily. The latter institution, namely, the David Sassoon Indus trial and Eeformatory Institution, which was estabUshed in 1857 by the benevolent gentleman whose name it bears, is situated at Chunam KUu Eoad, near the Grant Eoad, It was estabUshed for the xefoxmation of juvenUe delinquents, who aie heie tiained to habits of useful industiy. Thus, at the tirae of OUI visit, we found several boys, sorae of whom were busUy engaged in a smithy, otheis ia a caipentex's shop, otheis in a carnage manufactory, otheis in a paintei's shop, whUe not a few were eithei moulding brass, oi turning in wood and Uon, We weie gieatly impressed -with the incal culable blessings which these two institutions were daUy con ferring upon certain classes of the great human famfly, and as we re-crossed their portals we felt how blessed in the esti mation of aU Indians must be the memory of the great men who founded thera. Surely it raay, with aU justice, be said of these two great phUanthropists — the one a Parsee, the other a Jew — in the words of Grotius, " PU post mortem vi-vunt, quia loquuntur," A synagogue, which was also founded by the late David Sassoon, was the last place which we -visited this day. In forra it resembles a plain Christian church. The gaUeries with which it is provided are especiaUy set apart for female votaries, the lower part of the buUding being the appro priated place for men. But time would faU us were we to attempt to describe the new High Court, Secretariat, the University HaU, and the new Telegraph Office ; let us, therefore, pass on to a considera tion of the Church of St. John the Evangehst, at Colaba, The church in question, which is commonly caUed the Memo rial Church, and which is open from sunrise untU sunset, for prayer and raeditation, originated with the Eev, George Pigott, M,A., who accompanied the Bombay column at the first invasion of Affghanistan. It cost about twenty thousand INDIA, 309 pounds, which sum was partly contributed by the pubUc, and partly by Government, It was erected in raeraory of those ofificers and private soldiers who feU in the invasion of Affghanistan, in the retreat frora Cabool, and in those days of -victory at the Kyber Pass, at JeUalabad, Gugdulluck, and Tezeen, at Kandahar, and Ghuznee, and in the re-occupation of Cabool, which restored the supreraacy of British power, and the dignity of the British name in the East, The naraes of aU the officers who feU on these respective battle fields are recorded on raonumental tablets of brass, affixed to the walls of the chancel. This church, which is beautifuUy situated, weU repaid the -visit which we made to it. In OIU various drives through the city, we saw several singular native cereraonies, both of a pubUo and doraestic nature. Of these cereraonies one, which was of a doraestic kind, was in honour of an announceraent which had been made by a young Hindoo -wife to her lord, that she was in an interesting state. This happy circumstance was duly observed hy a banquet, at which aU the friends of the family, whether Hindoos, Parsees, or Mohammedans, were present. So nume rous were the guests on the occasion, that many of thera had to sit at tables placed in the courtyard or compound of the house. As they were being entertained, gome of the servants were engaged in presenting each of them with bouquets of flowers, whUe other attendants regarded it as their duty to sprinkle each guest with attar of roses. This ceremony, to mark the period of conception, is prescribed by the Shastras, On another occasion we passed a house in which a ceremony called jat-karam was being observed. This rite, which is performed at the birth of a chUd, consists in giving it a drop of honey out of a golden spoon ere the navel string has been divided. Moreover, the father, on seeing his chUd for the first time, is required to take a piece of gold m his hand, to offer a sacrifice to Brahma, and then to smear the foiehead of the infant with ghi. These duties having been dischaiged, he is next lequiied to entwine round the wrist of the child a coid, consisting of seven oi nine thieads, and fi-^-e 310 INDIA. blades of Daiba giass. We raay also raention, when -wilting upon this subject, that othex lites aie obseived when, at the age of twelve days, the child receives his name ; when, at the age of thiee months, he is taken foi the fiist time outside the house ; when, at the age of six months, he is weaned from the bieast of his mothei ; and when, at the age of three yeais, his head is shaved. We also met, in our drives through Bombay, three or four Mohararaedan funeral processions. The coffin in each case was borne, as is customary, to the grave by the relatives of the deceased. As they marched towards the place of inter ment, they cried aloud, at frequent intervals, " There is no God but God, and Mahomet is the prophet of God," On ar ri-ving at the cemetery, the body was removed from the coffin and placed under a tent, with a -view to its being washed. The hands, feet, knees, and forehead of the corpse, that is, the parts of the body which daUy touched the ground in prayer, were then sprinkled with powdered caraphor. These duties having been duly perforraed, the body was then wrapped in a calico winding-sheet, on which certain suras of the Koran had been written. And here we raay observe that all devout Mohammedans, as a rule, make their winding-sheets ready whUe stUl in health, -writing on them, at various intervals texts or quotations from the Koran, The Kaji, if we mis take not, reads the funeral service over the remains of the poor, while the nearest relative or most intimate friend per forras that same duty in the case of the wealthy. The ser-vice in question is formed of four confessions of faith, and a bene diction. Great care is taken when the body, not enclosed in a coffin, is being lowered into the grave, to place it on its back, having the head towards the north, and the face towards Mecca, Each person present then takes in his hand a few particles of earth, and besprinkUng the body -vrith the same, repeats from the Koran the foUowing words : — " We created you of earth and return you to earth, and we shall raise you out of the earth on the resunection day," Prayers for the departed one and for all present are then said, and when the INDIA. 31 1 first and hundredth and eleventh suras have been said aloud, alms are distributed. But let us conclude our remarks ou these Mohammedan death ceremonies by stating that when a Moslem is dying, a reader of the Koran is summoned to the bedside of the dying man in order to read aloud in his hear ing the Suraiyasin aud two creeds. Sherbet weU s-weetened with sugar is then poured into the mouth of the invalid, with the view, it is supposed, of assisting the flight of the soul from the body. We were also present at Bombay during the celebration of a Mohararaedan festival, which is styled Akhiri Chahar Shambah, and during the observance of a Mohararaedan fast which is styled Bari-Wafat. The festival to which we have referred, is held on the last Wednesday of Safar, in coraraerao- ration of Mahomet ha-ving sufficiently recovered on this day of his last sickness, so as to be able to take a bath. In celebration of this event, it is usual for aU foUowers of the prophet to -write out seven benedictions on this anniversary, and then, while the ink is stUl fresh, to wash it off and drink it. They also, in conformity to the established rules of this festival, bathe theU bodies, attire themselves in new robes, eat sweetmeats, resort to gardens, and repeat prayers. The fast is called Bari-Wafat, or great death. It is ob served on the thUteenth day of Rahi^Ujl-awal, in meraory of the death of Mahomet, a.h. 11. On this occasion, either an unpression of the prophet's foot on stone, or a lock of his hair is brought forth and reverenced by the people. Night pro cessions are also held in honour of this event. Ha-ving explored the city of Bombay, our next duty was to -visit the caves of Elephanta. Erabarking, theiefoie, at the ApoUo Piei in a steara launch, the property of Messrs. David Sassoon, Sons, and Corapany, we proceeded — three or four gentlemen, members of the Sassoon famUy, being our com panions — to the caves in question. On our arrival at the Island of Elephanta, for such is the name of the island on which these caverns are situated, and which is at a distance of four or five railes from Bombay, we debarked at a well- 312 INDIA. paved pier, and ascending a neatly paved staircase, which runs along the side of a hUl, we quickly found ourselves at the entrance of the caves, or rather rock-cut temples of Elephanta. As to the time when these caves were formed, rauch doubt has been entertained. It is, however, supposed by raany persons that they were constructed at a period between the eighth and tweffth centuries of the Christian era. They have, during the lapse of ages, faUen into a state of decay. Enough of the sculptured work by which at one time they were so much adorned, stiU reraains to render thera objects of great interest to archseologists and others. The principal rock-cut shrine at Elephanta is termed by the Hindoos a Shiva Linga temple, or shrine, in honour of the great creative energy, or proUfic power of nature, A conical stone, as emblematical of this creative power, is contained in the temple, and to which adoration is paid on the part of aU Hindoos visiting the shrine. Amongst the many sculptured figures which are contained in these temples, is the three-faced bust, or Trimurti, It is a figure of Shiva in his threefold character of Brahma, Vishnu, and Eudra, the former being the creator, the second the preserver, and the third the destroyer — three gods, in short, eraanating from one divinity^ and yet continuing to be united in him. Time, however, would faU us were we to give a detaUed description of these rock-cut teraples of Elephanta, which are extraordinary ex cavations, and in all respects weU deser-ving of a -visit. With the view of protecting thera as rauch as possible from depre dations on the part of thoughtless visitors, a European watch raan has been placed there by the Government, This man, in the course of a conversation which we held with him, informed us that not more than three days prior to our visit to the Island of Elephanta, a tiger, having swum from the mainland to the island, had there and then kUled two buUocks and two goats, and that, despite a hot pursuit on the part of arraed peasants, had succeeded in effecting his escape. On our return to Bombay, we at once made preparations for a visit to Matheran, which is a hiU station, not only re- INDIA, 313 markable foi its beautiful scenexy, but also fox the salubxity of its climate. We pioceeded by train to Naiel, and thence on hoiseback, by a weU-constiucted mountain path, to Matheran, This hiU station, which is two thousand five bun dled feet above the level of the sea, and owing to its lugged peaks, shady glens, deep la-vines, gently sloping hiUocks, and exceUent cUmate, is peihaps one of the most deUghtful places of resort in the presidency of Bombay, We found exceUent quarters at the Chank Hotel, and each raorning and evening during our visit we either rode or walked along very exceUent roads to the most interesting and beautiful parts of the station. From the various peaks of the raountain most charming -views are obtained of the surrounding country, the eye being able to stretch over a distance of raany inUes, On Sunday (Whit Sunday) we repaUed to the church of Matheran, and were present at the early celebration. Three clergyraen assisted on the occasion, and oux suxpxise was gxeat on oux bemg dismissed -without a sexmon. This fact would not have excited any wondex at aU had we been invited to attend a seivice at eleven o'clock, a.m. On leaming, howevei, that the chuxch would not be xe-opened fox seivice untU five o'clock in the evening, we were indeed astonished at the appaient apathy of the thiee cleigymen to whora we have just refened. Aftex an agieeable sojoum of a few days at Mathexan, we retraced our steps to Narel, and proceeded thence by train through the ghauts to KhandaUa. The passage through these ghauts is very interesting. When the train, however, reaches the steepest part of the raUway incUne, the heart, when the eye Ughts upon the abyss below, is alraost appaUed, On our arrival at KhandaUa, we lodged at a d^k bungalow. Here we met with a mUitary ofificer — a major, ff we mistake not — who, for no earthly reason, was much disposed to quarrel with certain of our party. A Mr, Ezekiel, who, in order to enjoy a change of aU and scene, had corae to KhandaUa from Poonah, invited us to dine with him. The hospitaUty of this worthy gentleman was very profuse, and we shall evex xetain a most gxateful xemembiance of it, Fiora KhandaUa -we 314 INDIA, lepaiied on hoiseback to Kailee, a place justly famous foi its lock-cut temples. Of these caves, one, which in foira gieatly leserables a Chxistian chuxch, is one bundled and two feet in length, and forty-five feet in bieadth. On each side of the nave, if we raay so apply that teim, there is a row of fifteen stone pUlais, which, in point of design and execution, axe vexy exceUent, In the leai of the chaitya there aie seven undecoiated pUlais, which aie not without effect. A colossal linga, which occupies a prominent position in the temple, is' the chief object of woiship, A fakii, who was UteiaUy coveied with dust and ashes, and who held a losaiy in his hand, was, at the time of oui -visit, walking aiound this linga, as an act of devotion, and at each step which he took he uttexed, in a duU, monotonous tone of voice, his matutinal piayeis. His devotions were not brought to a close untU he had walked two bundled times aiound the linga. No soonei had this devotee ceased to pray, than eighty pUgiims — men and women — anived fiom a neighbouring viUage, with the view of woishipping the Unga. At the close of theii devo tions, they enteied an adjoining lock-cut cavem, and having boiled sevexal measuxes of xice, sat down to dine. The women seived at dinnei, and when the raen, each of whom laised food to his raouth by means of the right hand, had weU dined, the women began to eat. These Hindoos, togethei with om-selves, were kept in xoais of laughtei by the suc cessful peifoimance, on the part of Mi. Ezekiel, one of oux companions, of sevexal tiicks of legeidemain, WhUst the Hindoos weie eageily witnessing Mi, Ezekiel's clevei pei- foiraances, they were almost startled from theii propriety by three 01 foui Indo-Poituguese, who, upon enteiing the cavem in which the Hindoos were assembled, suddenly dischaiged theii fiieaims, with the view, we suppose, of testing the echoing pxopexties of the xock-hewn shrine, Eemounting OUI hoises, we rode to Lanowlee, and thence hastened by tiain to Poonah, wheie we wexe most kindly xeceived and hospitably entextained by Mx, Ezekiel, senior But befoie we treat on what we saw at this place, let us make a few remarks INDIA. 315 respecting its history. According to Thornton, it 'was not untu A.D. 1604 that Poonah was mentioned in historical annals. It was, in that year, granted by the Sultan of Ahmednuggur to MaUojee, the grandfather of Seva-jee, the Mahratta chief. Some years later — that is in the year 1637 — itjwas confii-raed by the SiUtan of Ahmednuggur to Shajee, the father of Sevajee. In the year 1663, Sevajee, havmg succeeded his father, Shajee incurred the displeasure of Aurungzebe, King of Delhi, and was forcibly deprived of the city of Poonah by Shaista-Khan, the iraperial Viceroy of the last-named Sovereign. In the course of a few days, however, Sevajee, by force of arms, recovered the city of which he had been deprived so unexpectedly. In the struggle which took place, the Viceroy Shaista-Khan was wounded, and with difficulty escaped to a place of safety. His son, it appears, was not so fortunate ; he, together with most of his father's guard, ha-ving been cut to pieces. Aurungzebe, however, speedUy sent a large force, which succeeded in driving back Sevajee, and in reinstating the wounded Viceroy. In the course of a very few years, Aurungzebe becoming reconciled to Sevajee, restored to that prince the city which he had so ruthlessly taken away from him. But the troubles of Poonah were not yet at an end. During the reign of Sambajee, the successor of Sevajee, it was held by Khan Jehan, an officer of the Padishah. Again, in 1763, Nizara Ali, of Hyderabad, not only sacked the town, but wiffuUy destroyed a great part of it by fire. Subsequent to these sad events, it experienced, o-sving to the confiicts between the Peishwa on the one hand, and Scindia and Holkar on the other, raany vicissitudes of fortune. In 1802, the Peishwa, in accordance with certain articles of the treaty of Bassein, received a British force into Poonah, In consequence of the treachery and other wicked acts of the Peishwa, Bajee Eao, the British Governraent deemed it ad-visable to depose that prince, and to incorporate his principality with the British dominions. This plan was conceived and carried into effect in 1818, when Sir John Malcolm was Governor of Borabay. Thus Poonah becarae not 316 INDIA. only the head-quarters of the British ci-vil establishraent, but also the principal cantonment of the Deccan. It is now, therefore, a city intersected by weU-macadamised roads, and beautified by neat bungalows and tastefuUy-ananged gardens and grounds. The native bazaars, too, are formed by well- buUt houses, which the inhabitants, owing to exceUent municipal laws, which are strictly enforced, keep in a state of comparative cleanUness, On the day imraediately foUowing our arrival at the city of Poonah, we (despite the cholera, which at the time of our -visit was prevaiUng in an epidemical form), entered upon the duty of visiting all its places of interest, The Jewish syna gogue, which is an ornament to that part of the town in which it stands, first attracted our attention, A tablet, bearing the following inscription, notifies the fact that the synagogue in question was erected by the late D^vid Sassoon : — " This is the gate of the Lord into which the righteous shaU enter and This Stone is set as a monument To bear a sign of this House of Prayer called The Tent of David The foundation of which was laid on the 5th November 1863 By the late David Sassoon Esquire, which was completed under the auspices of His Sons, Consecrated September 1867," INDIA, 317 In an adjacent raausoleum rest the remains of the iUus trious founder of this house of prayer. Proceeding a little further we arrived in front of the gates of the Sassoon Hospital, which is a very noble structure. The foundation stone of this hospital, which, in point of architec tural design, is EngUsh gothic, was laid in October, 1863, and was completed and opened to the pubUc in October, 1867, It has accoraraodation for one hundred and forty-four patients ordinarUy, but can, in seasons of especial need, receive two hundred. On a tablet we observed the foUowing inscription : — The Da-vid Sassoon General Hospital Founded for the reUef of the Buffering poor of Poonah by the PhUanthropic indi-vidual whose name it bears, who munificently contributed Es. 213,000 towards its erection and endowment. It was designed by Captain H, St, ClaU WUkins, E,E. Commenced 1863, Completed 1867. Conesponding with the years 5623-24 and 5627—28 Anno Mundi, Total cost Es, 310,060. We drove, in the next instance, to Garden Eeach, the couutry residence of Sir Albert Sassoon, This seat, which, in pomt of architectural design, resembles a castle, is a very fine structure, Fxom its lofty tuxiet a veiy commanding -view of the surrounding country and of the Eiver Moota, is ob tamed. The grounds, in the centre of which this residence stands, are most tastefully laid out, and are adorned with shiubs and plants of various kinds, and foim a most de hghtful retreat from the busy pursuits of the outside world, A large fountain, which sends forth several jets of water, adds also to the beauty and charm of this pretty spot. Govern- 318 INDIA, ment House being the next place on our Ust, we ordered our coachraan to drive us there. It is a large palatial buUding, and stands in an extensive though treeless and apparently very barren park. The pubUc gardens, which we next visited, though by no raeans extensive, are nevertheless very beautiful. At the tirae of our visit to these gardens, the band of Her Majesty's 7th Eegiment of FusUiers was playing, to the ap parent delight of several of the European and native inha^ bitants of Poonah, who were promenading in the gardens. Under the bank of this place of recreation fiows the Moota Moota river, and a large dam, erected in close proximity to the gardens, and over which at a certain season of the year, the watex fiows, so as to lesemble a long cascade, adds an additional chaxm to the geneial scene. This dam was, it appeals, thrown across the rivei, with the -view of obtaining an ample supply of watei at aU seasons of the yeai foi the inhabitants of Poonah. The expenses of this undertaking, which were estimated at 73,945 xupees, wexe to be defrayed by the late Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy. The work was entered upon in 1844. In the foUowing year, however, and again in the year 1846, the undertaking, owing to large floods, was rendered useless. Sir Jarasetjee ha-ving already expended 175,000 rupees on this enterprise, it was at length, that is iu 1847, completed at the expense of the general pubhc. AH difficulties, however, respecting this great work had uot even then come to an end, for in 1848 it once more gave way. The damage which il sustained on this occasion was not finaUy repaired untU 1850. Now, however, it seems to answer well the great purpose for which it was constructed. On a stone tablet, which stands near to the dam, is recorded the foUowing inscription : — " The Jamsetjee Board and Water Works, constructed at the suggestion and carried out under the auspices of Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, Knight, of Bombay, who munificently contributed the sum of 175,000 rupees towards the under taking, in which the eminent individual whose name it bears, had in view the noble and philanthropic design of furnishing INDIA, 319 to the inhabitants of Poonah a never-faUing supply of pure water The work was coraraenced in the Christian year 1844, corresponding with the Sharshai Yezezeed iEra 1214-15, under the superintendence of Captain Thoraas Studdert, of the Bombay Engineers, " The total amount of expenses incurred on this useful and charitable undertaking was 257,419 rupees," Let us now conclude our remarks respecting this dam by observing that, in close proximity to it, the river is spanned by a stone bridge, caUed the WeUesley Bridge, and which structure was erected when SU John Malcolm was Governor of Bombay. We now drove to the Parbati HiU, which is situated in the south-eastern suburb of the city. As we drew near to the foot of this hUl we went along the margin of the Par bati Lake, This sheet of water, which in size and form greatly reminded us of sorae of the sraaller lakes or tarns of Cum berland and Westmoreland, is exceedingly beautiful. In its centre there stands an islet, which is covered with evergreen trees, and which, as the reader may easUy imagine, adds greatly to the enchantment of the scene. As the sun, how ever, had long since passed the raeridian, there was not rauch time for us to devote to the lake. We, therefore, pressed quickly on to the Parbati HiU, with the intention of ascend ing its summit. This isolated hill, which rises to a height of a few hundred feet above the plain on which it stands, is said to derive its name frora a sraaU but old teraple by which its summit is crowned in honour of the goddess Parbati, the wife of Shiva, a deity of the Hindoo triad or Triraurti, In addition to the teraple to which we have just referred, there are three raodern shrines. They were erected A.D, 1749 by the Peishwa Balajee Bajee Eao. * The surarait of the hill is attained by a broad and gently-sloping flight of stone steps. Of the foux teraples which stand on this hUl, the laigest is in honoui of Shiva, It is a raassive stone building, suimounted hy a dome, and as it is sunounded on each side by a high waU, it has aU the appeaiance of a fortification. All the 320 INDIA. idols contained in this temple are made of pxecious metals. That which lepiesents Shiva, the principal deity, is made of silver Those which xespectively lepiesent Paibati, the wife of Shiva, and Gunputtee, the god of knowledge, are said to be foimed of gold. Facing the temple thexe is a laxge fountain. An iraage, too, of Nundee, the sacied buU, is to be seen hexe. It is suimounted by a stone canopy, lesting upon pUlais ofthe same raaterial. At each of the four corners of the waU by which the temples are enclosed, there stands a smaU shrine. Of these apparently unimportant shrines, the first contains a white marble idol of Soorya Naroyew, the Phoebus of the Hindoos ; the second, an idol of Kartekaswamer, the six- headed bachelor god of war ; and the thUd a black marble idol of Vishnu. The material of which this last-mentioned figure is formed, is said to have been obtained at considerable cost and trouble from Nepaul. Before we proceed further, let us pause to observe that the six-headed god of war to whose idol a reference has just been made, is only worshipped by male votaries. Indeed, women of aU ranks and ages are ever prohibited from seeing the idol by which this god is represented. This pecuUarity is owing to a statement derived from Puianee tradition, that Kartekaswamer, when in the flesh, took a vow of ceUbacy, to which vow, throughout the course of his Ufe, he most rigidly adhered. The British Government gives annuaUy for the mainten ance of the temples on Parbati HUl — a hUl which Hindoo superstition has invested with sanctity — a grant of 18,000 rupees. Portions of this sum are expended in supporting the ecclesiastical department of the temples, and others in sup plying Brahrains with food. Having inspected the different shrines which are situated on the top of this hUl, we enjoyed for a few minutes the extensive and charming view of the sunounding country, which this elevated position commands. As we gazed on the wide plains of the Deccan, we were re minded that it was from the top of the sarae hUl that in 1815 Bajee Eao, the last of the Peishwas, witnessed the defeat INDIA, 321 of his forces on these plains, by a coraparatively sraaU number of British troops. As we were dri-ving, on our return from the Parbati HiU, through the streets and crowded bazaars of Poonah — passing, here and there, dingy port-holed fortalices and temples adorned -with minarets— we met, at intervals, emaciated- looking fakUs, wearing the skins of -wild beasts, Occa sionaUy, too, we saw sacred buUs leisurely wending their way through the streets, and, ever and anon, helping them selves, as they passed vegetable and fruit staUs, either to the vegetables or fruits, which were exposed for sale. In not a single instance did the staU-keepers object to such pUfering propensities on the part of these wandering Brah min buUs, e-vidently regarding it as a religious duty — yea, a pri-vilege — to aUow them to partake freely of the contents of theii lespective staUs, Fighting rams, also, which weie being led by Mahiattas thiough the stieets, carae occa sionaUy undei OUI notice. Corabats on the part of these animals constitute, it appeals, a souice of gieat amusement aud excitement to the people whom we have just named. Of aU the sights, howevei, which came befoie us as we passed thiough these stieets, not one pioved so inteiesting to us as that of a Hindoo maniage piocession. The biide and biide- gioom, eaeh of whom was not moie than six yeais of age, weie riding on a hoise, which was lemaikable foi tbe gay flappings by which it was capaiisoned. The bridal pair, too, were adorned on this joyous occasion with tresses and ribbons of very bright colours. The horse on which they were mounted was preceded by several youths — fiiends of the bridegrooms-each of whom was riding on horseback. Fol lowing the bridal paii weie seveial musicians, who, by playing upon the rude musical instraments of the countiy, made the veiy welkin ring. Next in the piocession came seveial women, and, last of aU, marched many men. On the anival of this gay procession at the house of the bridegroom's father the happy event was stUl further celebrated by a banquet and other ceremonies, at all of which there was much rejoicing, Y 322 INDIA, The rausicians who stationed theraselves in fxont of the house honouied the occasion by playing, duiiag the gieatei part of the night, tunes of an appiopiiate natuie. It raay not be out of place ff we obseive hexe that Hindoo maiTiage cexemonies vaiy accoiding to the xank ox caste of the contxacting parties. Thus in the case of wealthy fami lies, each of the bridal paii is piovided with a hoise, whUe in the case of pooi famUies, as we have alxeady intimated, the bridal pau ride on one and the same hoise. Again, among the Biahmans, the male may be manied at any tirae aftei the mey, oi investiture of the sacied thread, which investituie invariably takes place befoie the youth has at tained the eighth yeai of his age, whUe among othex castes, this ceiemony may be peifoimed at any age. The female should not be ten yeais of age, and she must be youngei than hex husband, and hex maniage must be solemnized be fore signs of puberty have appealed. The Shastras mention eight kinds of maniage ; of these vaiious foxms, howevei, one only, named Biamha, is obseived by the highei castes. The chaiges, attendant on the due celebxation of such a maxriage axe seveiaUy incuiied by the fatheis of the contracting paities. The principal maniage ceremonies among the Biah- raans are the lagnapra-trika, oi writing by the Joshi or astrologer, the naraes of the parties, and the day and hour at which the wedding is to take place — the saptapadi, or walking round a flre three times (each walk consisting of seven steps), and binding together the garments of the contracting parties — and the hom, or burnt offering ; after which the contract is indissoluble. The bride is given away by her father iu his own house, and in this house it is customary for her to reside until the coming of the signs of puberty. After this event, she goes to the residence of her husband, whether he reside with his father, or have a separate establishment of his own. Particular seasons, and junctions of the planets are appointed for the celebration of maniages in different castes. The same castes, in different provinces, have their peculiar ceremonies. INDIA. 323 On our return to Bombay from Poonah, we embarked in the British India Steara Navigation Corapany's steamship "Penang,'' Commander Avern, on our voyage to Kurrachee, a seaport of Sinde, and after an exceedingly pleasant voyage, we arrived at oux poit of destination. The day on which we anived being the natal annivexsaiy of the Queen of Great Britain, we observed that aU the ships in harbour, excepting the " Dorothy '' of Liverpool, and the " Eboda " of Quebec, were decorated with bunting. On the voyage from Bombay to this port, no incidents of any importance oc curred. Nor did we see anything that was at aU interest ing, excepting a large whale, which a few hours before we arrived in port, rose proudly to the surface of the waters, and after breathing for a brief space, quickly disappeared. Before we enter upon a description of the sights of Kur rachee, let us say a few words respecting the place itseff. This city, which in point of position is a place of very great importance, whether it be considered in a comraercial, a pohtical, or raiUtary point of view, is situated on a vast plain which is bounded on one side by the sea and on the other by the Pubb, or Brahooic mountaUis. The harbour, ©f which we shaU first speak, is forraed on one side by a rocky headland, one hundred and fifty feet in height, and which bears the narae of Manorah. The harbour is of very great extent, but, unfortunately, there is a bar at the entrance, which renders its na-vigation on the part of large vessels a somewhat difficult matter. Moreover, thexe is, within it an extensive sand-bank, which gxeatly liraits the space in which laxge ships can lide at anchoi with any degree of safety. With the view of protecting the harbour from the sweU of the ocean, which, during the south-west raonsoon, used to sweep with great force into it, a stone breakwater of great length and strength has been erected. It is a monu- tnent of great engineering skill, and upon one of the raany huge blocks of stone of which it consists, there is recorded the foUowing inscription : — " This raeraorial block, twenty- seven tons weight and similar to those, one thousand eight Y 2 324 INDIA. hundred and fifty in number, of which the breakwater is buUt, was placed by the Titan crane on the 17th of January, 1874, in the presence of His ExceUency Sir Philip Edmond Wodehouse, K,C,B,, Governor of Bombay. Thus is recorded the corapletion of the Manorah Breakwater, which is the most important feature of the Kunachee Harbour Improve ment Works, planned in 1858 by the late James Walker, LL.D., F.E.S., Ci-vU Engineer. The first block was set on the 1st of November, 1870, by Colonel Sir WiUiara Mere- wether, K.C.S. and C.B., Coraraissioner in Sinde. The last block was set on the 22nd of February, 1873. WiUiam Parkes, Meraber of the Institute of Civil Engineers, Con sulting Engineer ; and WUUara Henry Price, Meraber of the Institute of CivU Engineers, Superintendent of Works ; George Lowe, Foreman of Mason Works ; WiUiam Sangster, Foreman Engineer. On the top of the rocky promontory of Manorah, there is a dUapidated fort. This fortification, which was erected in 1797, was supposed, owing to its position, to be proof against aU injury on the part of hostUe ships of war. There were those who contended that aU ships attacking this fort would have to elevate their guns to such a degree in order to avoid striking the brow of the hiU on which it stands, that mis- sUes directed agaiast it must of necessity pass over and faU into the sea on the opposite side ; whUe, on the other hand, the attacking vessel would have to come so near to the headland, that sharpshooters, protected by the rocks, would be able to clear her decks. The faUacy of this opinion, however, was fuUy shown in 1839, when H.M.S. " Wellesley," a frigate of 74 guns, sUenced the fort in the course of an hour's bombardment, and made it the abode of British troops. Having, under the auspices of Mr. Hogarth, a Presby terian Chaplain in Her Majesty's Indian Service, and Mr. Sangster, Master of Works, visited the railway, break water, and other objects of interest at Manorah, we proceeded to the city of Kurrachee. The city in question is situated at INDIA. 325 a distance of three miles from Manorah, and is approached by a mole and road, which have been constructed at a cost of £30,000. As we were driving along this road in a pair- horse caniage, we observed by the wayside an ordinary looking stone pUlar, on which the foUo-vving inscription was recorded : — From this spot on the 1st of Octobei, 1847, was fiied The FaieweU salute To His ExceUency Lieutenant-General Six Charies Napiei, G.C.B., in his EetUement from the Govexnoxship of Sinde, being the Extieme Point to which at that date Wheel Caniages had evei passed along the Bundei, a woik planned and executed imdei the Govemment of His ExceUency and thus fax completed at the date of his depaituxe fxom the Piovince, On xeaching the city of Kunachee, which consists of exceUent bungalows, and is provided with weU macadaraised roads, we took up our abode at the Dak Bungalow, which is not only coraraodious and comfortable, bat is in a somewhat central position of the town. Thence, having refreshed our selves by taking cold baths, we went forth to visit the various objects of interest which were within our reach. The first place which attracted our attention was the Frere Hall, a large buUding containing an exceUent library and public reading room on the ground floor, and a spacious baU-room 326 INDIA,- and supper-room on the upper floor. In the baU-roora a few days before our arrival at Kurrachee, a fancy ball on a very grand scale was held, which, according to newspaper report, proved a great success. Men and woraen of renown, both of ancient and modern periods of time, to say nothing of the inhabitants of raany Asiatic and European nations, were weU. represented, in point of costurae. In this baU-room, public meetings of various kinds are also held. On a white marble tablet which is affixed to the waU of the grand staircase, we observed the foUowing inscription : — "The Frere HaU, erected by the people of Sinde as a memorial of their esteera and gratitude to His ExceUency The Honourable SU Bartle Frere, K,C,B,, K,G., K,S,I,, Governor of Bombay, and forraerly Coraraissioner in Sinde, For his able and successful administration of the affairs of this province during a lengthened rule of nearly nine years. Building commenced August, 1863, opened to the pubhc on the 10th day of October, 1867," We now drove to the gaol, which, after a minute inspec tion, we concluded was in all respects the best conducted prison which we had visited since our departure from Hong Kong, It reflects great credit upon tho Governor and his coadjutor, Mr, TweUs, an old veteran, who, for many years, has faithfully served his Queen and country in India, The prisoners, some of whom were Sindians, others Beloochees, others Arabs, and others Hindoos, were engaged in making either Indian carpets of various designs and colours, or weav ing webs of cloth, or making rattan chaUs and baskets ; others found occupation in a blacksmith's shop, whUe several were making ropes. Of the ropes which were manufactured by these prisoners some, which were of the thickness of a man's forefinger, consisted of human hair, cut from the head of long- sentenced prisoners, and which being deemed a material too valuable to cast away, ropes were made of it. Mr, TweUs INDIA, 327 also caUed our attention to several bags, which had been made of the same material by the prisoners. In the condemned ceU of this prison we saw a very hand some Beloochee, of twenty-four years of age, awaiting execu tion. He had in a fit of jealousy murdered a native woman, and though he very weU knew that ere three or four days had elapsed he would be called upon to expiate his crime on the gaUows, he was perfectly unmoved, and undismayed. The Chm-ch of the Holy Trinity next came under our notice. It is a very neat and weU-constructed church, ha-ving an apse rather than a chancel ; its tower, owing to its extreme altitude, is very conspicuous. Why it should have been raised to such a height we were quite at a loss to conceive. One person remarking on this subject, jocosely observed that it was, per haps, emblematical of extreme watchfulness over the people on the part of the chaplains who minister within the walls of the church, whUst another, with much mirth suggested that it might be intended to indicate that high church doctrines are taught there. The walls at one end of the church are covered with mural tablets, several of which are placed so high as to lead one to the conclusion that it was intended that the inscriptions were not to be read. To decipher many of them was certainly a task which our vision signaUy faUed to accompUsh. The Scotch Church is also a very neat edifice — a rose window, with which it is pro-vided, heing especiaUy beautfful. In the carap bazaar, we entered three or four shops, in which elaborately carved black wood furmture was exposed for sale, and there were other shops, in which English goods of various kinds were attracting the attention of intending pur chasers. The barracks, which are in close proxiraity to this bazaar are very grand and commodious, and being buUt of stone, possess a most imposing appearance. They are occu pied by British and Indian troops. The cemetery, wbich is situated on a sandy plain, and exceedingly -weU kept, con tains some handsome monuments, A Parsee ceraetery also came under our notice, which is now, however, no longer used. 328 INDIA. the Parsee iahabitants of Kurrachee having provided them selves with a "Tower of SUence,'' As we have aUeady described the use of such towers, there is no need to repeat our remarks, A visit to the native bazaar afforded us very much pleasure. On Sundays, and also on Indian hoUdays, it is very much crowded by people of various nationaUties, each wearing the costume of his own country. In the shops of these bazaars articles of various kinds are exposed for sale. In a closely adjoining grass-market we saw camels, buUocks, and asses bearing large loads of grass, whieh loads their owners were anxious to seU to cow-keepers and others. Pro ceeding a short distance beyond the grass-raarket we entered a part of the native town which consists of mud hovels, and in which native labourers reside. The most singular feature of this part of the town was the nuraber of half- starved pariah dogs which were prowling about iu search of food. Upon seeing us they began to bark loudly, and con tinued to do so until we had quitted the place. As these creatures forra exceUent scavengers, they are tolerated by the local authorities. Thence we drove to the funeral pyre on which it is cus tomary fox the Hindoo inhabitants of Kunachee to bum the coipses of theii compatriots and co-reUgionists, The road to this place leads through a suburban district in which there is a smaU but well-buUt fish-market. As the same district is also famous for its dairies, we saw very large herds of milk cows, and in close proxiraity to each of the dairies, huge stacks of grass, the fodder on whieh the cattle are fed. On arriving at the funeral pyre, which stands as it were on the side of a sandy plain, we found that some human bodies had just been consumed by fire. Over the few remaining hot erabers a man was throwing paUs of cold water, copious sup plies of which element he readUy obtained from an adjacent stone-built tank. While this duty was being discharged two very lean pariah dogs were prowling around the pyre, having, doubtless, been attracted thither by the smeU of the bodies INDIA. 329 which had been so recently cremated. The hot embers having at length been quenched, they were speedily cast into an ad joining pit. As we were gazing upon this singular scene, a man riding on a camel passed the pyre, manffesting, so we thought, the most marked indifference to the scene which, then and there, came under his notice. His jet>-black face — for he was_ a Nubian — with its happy-go-lucky expression, showed no thought or fear of death, and made the last sad rites which we were then witnessing stiU raore singular. On the day foUowing our -visit to this funeral pyre, we not only went to the Commissioner's garden, which, at the time of our -visit, was blooming with roses, but also to the pubhc garden. The latter, which has a very neglected ap pearance, is extensive, and contains, besides its beds of flowers and plants, and its weU-shaded avenues, a croquet-ground, a cricket- ground, an archery-ground, and a band stand. As we -withdrew, we felt that these grounds stood greatly in need of supervision, When driving along the roads and streets of Kurra chee we met several camels laden with merchandise. In not a few instances we observed that thin leather band ages were bound — immediately under the knees — around the legs of the camels. The reason for this custom we were unable to ascertain. We concluded, however, that it was to give stiength and support to the Umbs of the animals when kbouiing undex theii pondeious buidens, Bullock carts, too, each of which was drawn by a pair of buUocks, we met at frequent intervals. These animals are not only well formed, but are of great size and strength. Their patience, too, is very great, Q-wing to these various exceUent qualities they are of great use to the natives. Of these animals, sorae of the most powerful which we saw were yoked to water- carts, which, with the -view of watering the streets and roads, they were diawing through the diffeient distiicts of the city. And here we may obseive that as the dust by which these streets are covered during the dry season of the year, is very plentfful, it is fortunate that the city is provided with many 330 INDIA, weUs from which water, with the -view of aUaying it, may be obtained. Water from raany of these wells is drawn by means of wheels, which the natives set and keep in motion either by theu hands or feet. Having at length -visited aU the places of interest which Kunachee contains, we hired a carriage, drawn by three horses, — two wheelers and a leader, — and proceeded to Mug gur PU, The road to this place, which is at a distance of eight mUes to the north of Kunachee, passes over a sandy plain, and is, at intervals, so stony as to render rapid pro gression by caniages, a matter of extreme difficulty. This arid plain is here and there bestudded with shrubs of wild cactus, which plants we need scarcely observe are a great reUef to the eye of the traveUer, On our way we passed several buUock carts and three or four trains of camels. The last-named beasts of burden being " ships of the desert," naturaUy proved to us objects of great interest. On our anival at Muggux Pix, we enteied a dak bungalow, in the sraall but convenient xeception xoom of which we xested untU the heat of the day had in some measuie subsided. Thence we pioceeded to an enclosed space not exceeding three bun dled yaids in ciicurafeience, in which not less than fifty afli- gatois are confined, Sorae of these leptUes are very laxge, and as they bask in the sun piesent a veiy sly appearance, Foi theii pleasure and weU-being there is in the centre of the waUed corapound in which they are confined a small pond of luke-warm water, and in this grateful retreat many of them, at the time of oux visit, wexe disporting themselves. These cieatuies, which are genuine aUigatois, being totally distinct fxom the long-snouted cxocodile, axe the property of certain fakUs, who have attached theraselves to the neigh bouring torab of a Mohammedan, who, when in the flesh, was pie-eminent foi the sanctity of his character As we weie gazing at the alUgatois a woman anived with ten or twelve kids of goats, and begged of us to puichase some of hei Uttle held with the view of casting them as food to the alUgatois, We declined to comply with hei wishes, saying, INDIA, 331 at the same time, that a sight so disgusting and cruel as that which she proposed would faU to edify us. We now entered the torab and raosque of the Mohara- medan saint, and as we crossed the threshold of the sanctuary, a man who occupies a small-domed house closely adjacent to the mosque, beat a dram with much earnestness, and after wards, -with equal earnestness, demanded buckshesh at our hands. The mosque being plain and unpretending did not interest us. On -withdra-ndng, we sauntered for a short time amongst the tombs by -«'hich it is surrounded. Of these, a few are highly ornamented. They are, however, owing to the combined influences of cUmate and lapse of time faUing rapidly into a state of decay. It was not at all surprising for us to find these graves in proximity to the mosque and tomb of the saint, as we had pre-viously learned that Mohamraedans have a desUe to he buried close to the tombs of saints who have professed the faith of Mahoraet. As we were in the act of returning to the dak bungalow we were informed by a native, who had undertaken the duty of showing us aU the surrounding ob jects of interest, that there was yet another corapound, though considerably sraaUer than the one which we had already -visited, in which aUigators were confined. Wishing to see all that was to be seen at Mugg-ur Pir, we followed in his track and quickly arrived at the enclosure in question. Here we saw four or five very large alUgators. Their love, however, fox the pond which their place of iraprisonraent contained was apparently so great that we could not by any means prevaU upon them to show themselves on the dryland; but as the water in which they were submerged was perfectly clear, we had no difficulty in descrying theix proportions. Passing from this pond, through a grove of date trees, we anived at a hot, sulphurous spring, which was enclosed by raasonry of stone-work and in which several native women, each of whom was modestly dressed, were bathing. Thence we walked a distance of half a mile in 332 INDIA, oi-der to visit another hot spring in which native men, some of whom were halt and withered, were bathing their bodies and washing theU clothes at one and the sarae time. Ha-ving visited a thUd hot spring in the sarae neighbour hood, we returned to the bungalow, and on our carriage being announced we returned to Kurrachee. The popiUation of Sinde may be classed as Mahommedans, Juts, Miani, and Hindoos. The latter, who are in their manners retiring and servUe, are a handsome race of people. As bankers they are pre-eminent for their integrity, and their bUls, consequently, pass current throughout India, The Juts, who constitute the agricultural class, and who, consequently, are chiefly occupied in the cultivation of the soU, and in the breeding of cattle, goats, and camels, are of very good physique, being tall, -vigorous, and good looking. The women, too, are conspicuous for theU beauty and modesty. Na-vigation and fishery occupy the attention of the Miani, and owing to the assiduity with which they ply the duties of their vocation, it may safely be asserted that they spend more time on the rivers than on the soU of theix countxy. The women, being almost as stxong and vigoious as the men, take a veiy active paxt in the vaiious duties which daUy occupy the attention of theU husbands and parents. The language of Sinde, when spoken and -written, differs very much from that which is spoken and -written in other parts of India. The characters are styled Khada-Wadi, and the dialects are two in number, namely, that of Lar, which is spoken in Hyderabad and its envUons, and that of Sar, which more particularly prevails in Uppex Sinde. 333 Chapter IX. AEABIA, Voyage from Kurrachee to Muscat — Our TeUo-w-Toyagers — H,M,S, " Nimble'' — Shoal of Porpoises — Island of Chunar — Mocks of Sea Birds— Eock called FahU— Muscat Harbour — Town of Muscat — Sultan's Palace — Fort Merani — Old Portuguese Custom-house— Portuguese Cathedral — Government House — Church or Cloister in which more than ttpo centuries ago several Portuguese Monks were murdered by Arabs — Streets or Bazaars — Bedouins — Pariah Dogs — Caves in which Arabs reside — ^Well of Pure 'Water — Asylums for Aged or Infirm Cows, Dogs, Fowls, and other creatures — Hot Springs at Bosur — An Account of the Province of Oman— Eeligion of the Inhabitants of Oman — Tenets of the Ibadhi Sect. But it was now time for us to resurae our voyage. Ee-em- harMng, therefore, on board the S,S, " Penang," our course was at once directed to Muscat, Our fellow-voyagers, who were numerous, consisted of English, Portuguese, Chinese, Persians, Arabians, Sindians, Khogians, Beloochees, Africans, Parsees, Hindoos, a Dane, and a Frenchman, As we were leaving the harbour of Kurrachee, H,M,S, "Mmble" was entering under sail. The exceUent manner in which this wax vessel was being na-vigated, caused us, as Britons, to feel, if possible, a greater degree of pride than ever in H,M,'s na-vy. No sooner had we crossed the bar which stretches across the mouth of the harbour of Kurrachee, than we came in contact with a large shoal of porpoises. These creatures, whether o-wing to tenor, arising from the near approach of the steamboat, or to exuberance of sphits, commenced to leap out of the water with an agiUty and quickness which we have seldom seen paralleled. After steaming a few houxs, we passed the last headland of Sinde. It consists of a smaU banen island, which, as it lesembles a camel in a lesting posture, is caUed Chunar On the third day of oui voyage we obseived seveial sea-biids wing- 334 AKABIA. ing their rapid flight along the surface of the ocean, and from this fact we deemed that we were at no great distance frora the Arabian coast. Nor was this conjecture an empty one, inasmuch as on the foUowing moming, at an early hour, we sighted the mainland of Arabia, As we were graduaUy approaching the coast, we were much struck with the bold, rugged, rocky, and inhospitable-looking hUls by which it is enclosed. On passing an insular rock, which, owing to its having the configuration of an elephant, is termed FahU, we entered the rock-bound harbour of Muscat, This city, which is the capital of the principality of Oman, is situated on the coast of Arabia, in lat, 23° 38' N., long. 58° 41' E., or 14° 17' N. frora Bombay, It is enclosed on the south, west, and east sides by rocky hUls of consider able altitude, AU around looks barren and desolate. But though the coast about Muscat appears banen and inhos pitable, being coraposed almost entirely of steep and rugged rocks, the country inland affords during the spring and sum mer months fruits and vegetables of various kinds. Such grains, too, as rice and dhoU, not to mention other cereals, may be procured in sufficient quantities, whUe in regard to fish, plentiful supplies can at aU times be obtained. It is here that the Sultan or Imaum of Oman keeps his court. The territorial possessions of this Arabian Prince included at one time, not only the whole of the province of Oman, but the islands of the Persian Guff, and certain ports on the east coast of Africa. As the high rocks which encircle this harbour are very extraordinary in regard to configuration, and as the summit of each is crowned by forts or towers, we were beyond mea sure strack with the singular novelty of all around us, and at once felt tbat were aU which the eye then covered, depicted on a wide sheet of canvass by the pencU of an artist, an exceUent drop-scene for a theatre would be the result. The various forts and towers to which we have just referred were erected by the Portuguese, who, at one time, held Muscat as a place of trade. No sooner had our vessel let go her anchors ARABIA. 335 than she was boarded by a number of Arabian and Indian merchants, aU of whora were anxious to receive their letters and newspapers, with the view of gathering from thera the latest commercial, poUtical, and doraestic inteUigence. On landing, we received a most kind invitation from Colonel Miles, H.B.M. Consul-General and PoUtical Agent at Muscat, to repaU to the Eesidency to partake of his hospitaUty. This kind invitation we gladly accepted, and on entering the Eesi dency were received with a welcome which is always ac corded to a stranger by a true-hearted Briton. Ha-ving break fasted at the Eesidency, where we had the pleasure of meeting Dr aud Mrs. Peters, we saUied forth, under the guidance of Dr Peters, to visit the streets and forts of Muscat. One of the first places at which we called, was the palace of the Imaum of the principaUty of Oman. It is approached by strong folding doors, and is very oriental in style, consist ing of a quadrangle or courtyard, which is enclosed on three of its sides by lofty buUdings, ha'ving smaU windows and terraced roofs. As we entered the courtyard, we were ac costed by the guards, dignified-looking Arabs, who were in charge of the gate. The weapons with which these soldiers were armed were highly ornamented and of Arabian manu facture. Having been infoimed that we were the guests of Colonel MUes, they immediately admitted us, and treated us with marked respect. As the Sultan's uncle had died that very morning at an advanced age, it was, of course not possible for His Excellency to grant us an audience. In obedience to his commands, however, we were aUowed to see the interior of the palace. As we were passing through the courtyard we saw a raagnificent Mesopotaraian lion. This noble beast, which was confined in a close cage, and suffering apparently frora the great heat of the weather, was remarkably docile. The stud of the Sultan next attracted our attention. It consisted of eight or ten Arabian steeds, some of which, owing to their symmetrical proportions and colour, were objects of great beauty. The tail of one of these animals^a white mare, the favourite steed of the Sultan — 336 ARABIA. was dyed of a red colour. Tbe singular custom of dyeing the taU of a horse on which a Sultan or a high official is accus tomed to ride, is by no means uncoraraon in sorae eastem countries. On -withdrawing frora the palace, we proceeded to the fort caUed Merani, and as we entered it, the captain of the Arabian ganison stepped boldly foxwaxd, and most poUtely shaking us by the hand, exclairaed that the foxt was ours and that he was our humble servant. This fort, which is now in the hands of Arabians, was buUt by the Portuguese, who, as we have already stated, were thxee or four centuries ago masters of this place. On entering it, we had observed on a tablet affixed above the front window, the foUo-wing inscription : — N'RmCRASA PI A B SECV And on a large gun were engraved the arras of Spain, and the words Don PhiUppe III Eey de Spana. DON IVAN DE ACVNA DL . SVCON , LIO EE G-VERAO Y . 0 . CAPITAN . GENERA, Cl . LA . ARTILLERIA . ANO 1606, Again, on a stone tablature which was placed above the front gates of the fort, were recorded the foUowing Words : — REINAOBHOM VAETO+EBOED. ROROoFo-pRTVERO EOSE.MGVEFL [-EaSaNOSONONO yAVOANOE)- SEVREIVADOA/^ OROADEPORV a-hA h/DOVPORl£)NBARTE DM EhERES SEWROxR^BADTASESEFJ RESE ESAFOR-AEEeA^^AESbELCHR e^SIPRIVERO© PI7^0EFV^^IA)[2)RI^588 (1558?) ARABIA, 337 In another fort which we visited, oux attention was directed to an old Portuguese miUtary chapel, at the door of which, and in close proxiraity to the place where the altar forraerly stood, there is a well-preserved picina. Passing from this fort to the old custora-house, which was also erected by the Portuguese when they were pre-erai- nently a trading people, we noticed on the folding doors the foUowing word and figures, anno 1624, Thence we went to the Portuguese cathedral In the quadrangle of this once sacred edifice, an elephant, which had been sent from Hyderabad as a present to the Sultan, is now confined. This beast, at the time of our visit to tlus deserted and desecrated cathedral, was, by means of his tnmk, throw ing sand upon his back with the -view of cooUng himself, the heat being almost unendurable. After a visit to the old Government House in which the Portuguese governors, when in the plemtude of their power, resided, and to a cloister in whieh one night, more than two hundred years since, aU the Christian monks residing therein were attacked and murdered by the Arabs, we repaired to the streets or bazaars of this singular Arabian town. As we were walking through these streets, some of which are ex- cegdiagly nanow, we raet with several groups of Bedouins, These sons of the desert, who were exceedingly wild-looking men, and each of whora canied a gun, a sciraitar, and a dagger, had come, several hundreds in nuraber, to Muscat, for the pm-pose of exacting money from the Sultan, on the ground that they had for many months past safely guarded the frontier of his principaUty against raids on the part of wandering and hostUe txibes. It is sm-ely needless fox us to observe that they did not go away empty-handed. The hazaais are in the foim of arcades, and in the various shops of which they consist, we observed Arabian merchants actively engaged in seUing their wares, whUe others were sitting cross-legged, and smoking either long-stemmed pipes, or bub bhng hookahs. The shops, at the time of our visit, were more or less thronged with puichaseis, and the stieets litei- z 338 ARABIA, aUy swarmed with dogs of a pariah class. Neither shop keepers nor purchasers, however, appeared to regard these animals as nuisances. As we were walking through the bazaars of the town, we were much struck with the poUte and courteous raanner in which the Arabs saluted one ano thex, "When two of thera raet, the one who fiist spoke placed his right hand on his heart and exclaimed " Salem aleikum," which signifies " Peace be with you," while the othex xejoined " Aleikum essalam," ox " With you be peace," The eldeis geneiaUy gave theU blessing, and in doing so said, " The meicy and blessing of God be with you," We felt that such courtesy as this, on the part of the Aiabs, might, to some extent at aU events, be advantageously imitated by the in habitants of Euiopean nations. We also met many women in the stieets, but we wexe unable to see theix featuies, as they wore veUs of a blue material ovei theU faces. All the Aiabs with whom we raet in the stieets of Muscat were evidently vexy cheerful and good terapered. This araiabiUty on theii pait was, peihaps, owing to the fact that they had on the preceding day been engaged in the celebia- tion of a Mohammedan festival in honoui of Sayid Abduk- kadii Ghilani oi Pii Piiau, This peisonage, who is now legaided as a celebiated Mohararaedan saint, has ninety-six naraes of honoux. He was a sufti doctor GhUan gave him biith, and Baghdad was not only the city in which he taught, but also the place in which he died and was buried, aud where his tomb is stiU revered as sacied, Sadi, who was one of his pupils, mentions him in his Gulistan, His nephew, Sayid Ahmid KabU, is the pation of the lenowned religious mendicants called Guizraar At the celebration of the fes tival in honoux of hira, a laxge gxeen bannex, beaxing his narae, is canied thxough the stieets of the city. And so efficacious are the influences of this bannex supposed to be, that it is canied as a talisraan through the streets of all Mohammedan cities during the ravages of cholera or any epidemic. But of this enough. Let us now observe that the other objects of inteiest at AKABI.V. 330 • Muscat calculated to attract the attention of the tourist or traveUer, are two or three caverns, not larger than ordinary rooms, and in which poor Arabs with their farailies reside — a fissure in a lock, which contains a well of exceUent watei — and an asylum in which aged cow's, pariah dogs, fowls, and othei animals aie kept as objects of pity and compassion on the part of ceitain Bunnians, who, as meichants and bankeis, tiansact the chief raonetaiy business at Muscat, These Bunnians (who are Hindoos), as strict foUowexs of the leU- gious faith in which they have been bom and biought up, refuse to paxtake of animal food, or even to sanction in any way the slaughter of animals. Indeed so particular are they in this respect, that they not unfrequently puichase the cattle whieh it is intended shall be offered in sacrifice, and fxom time to tirae send thera to Kutch — the place of which they (the Muscat Bunnians) axe natives. The only place at Muscat which now leraained for us to visit was a sraaU ceraetery which has been especiaUy set apart for the interment of all European residents who die at Muscat. To this Uttle ne- cropoUs, however, we -were unable to go, owing to the late hour of the day. Nor could we visit, in consequence of the great heat of the season, the hot springs of Bosur, The place in question is situated at a distance of twenty or twenty- five mUes to the westward of Muscat, and owing to the hot springs for which it is so justly famous, repays a visit. The watex, which issues with consideiable foice fiora a lock, is almost scalding hot. Owing to its purity it is drawn, and used, when cold, by the natives as a beverage, and for domestic purposes. It possesses, according to Captain Moresby's statement, a chalybeate taste. These hot springs, however, serve other purposes than those to v/hich we have just refened. For example, they irrigate so effectually a closely adjacent date grove, that the trees and herbage of which it can boast are the finest in the country. The Suhan's gardens, too, which are said to contain pomegranate, fig, and orange trees are in this same neighbourhood. But having written thus much about the town and envi- z 2 340 ARABIA, xons of Muscat, let us say a few woxds xespecting the princi pality of which it is the capital It was, at one period, inhabited by Persians, who for many years regarded them selves as its indisputed owners. In the course of time, how ever, they were attacked and expeUed fxom the tenitory which they had usurped, by a tribe of Arabians, caUed the el-Azd, who resided at el-Sarat, The reason why this tribe was induced to march frora el-Sarat, the settlement of their forefathers, towards the province of Oman, may be briefly nanated in the foUowing words : — An eldex of the tiibe of el-Azd, who was named MaUk-bin, had nephews, the sons of his bxothei, Amxu-bin, who wexe accustomed when taking theix flocks to and fxom pastuxe to pass the house of a neigh bour, whose dog invaxiably attacked and dispersed the flocks. This ciicumstance gieatly exasperated the nephews of Malik- bin, and one of them being, we suppose, of a more fieiy tempei than the otheis, kiUed the dog with his spear. The ownei of the dog, being undei the piotection of MaUk-bin, coraplained to hira of the injury and insult which had been offered to him, MaUk-bin sympathised with his protigi, lathei than with his nephews, and being veiy much grieved, declared that he would not, on any account, remain in a land where a peison undei his piotection, suffered such txeatment. He went forth, therefore, from el-Saiat, with aU those of the tribe of el-Azd, who bore aUegiance to him. Having pio ceeded some distance on the way towaxds Oman, his camels yeained, it is said, fox the pastuxe-giounds of el-Saxat; but he being resolute in his puiposes, thought not, foi one moment, of a return. As he puisued his joumey, various txibes of Aiabs, especiaUy those of Maadd or Aduan, being gieatly impressed with the exalted dignity of his chaiactei, and the numbex and efficiency of his aimed letaineis, not only sought his fiiendship, but foimed aUiances with him. On xeaching Eahut, a vaUey in Hadhiamont, he heaid that Oman, whithei he was diiecting his steps, was inhabited by Pexsians undex the command of the Maizaban, who was viceioy foi theii king, Daia, and that it would be impos- ARABIA. 341 sible for him to obtain possession of this province with out a severe struggle. Upon receiving this intelligence, he, as a first duty, reviewed his forces, which were found to be, cavalry and infantry corabined, six thousand strong. He then forraed a vanguard, consisting of two thousand horsemen, at the head of which he placed his son, Honat, or, as others say, Ferahid, Having thus far ananged all the necessary preUrainaries for any contingency which might arise, he proceeded, in the first instance, to Kalhat, which place is on the coast of Oman, and which he regarded, owing to its strategical advantages, as a secure position against the Persians. Here he left, under the protection of a strong guard, the women and chUdren, together -with the camels and heavy baggage, and proceeded to the district of el-Jowf, where he encamped with his forces on the plain. Thence, he despatched messengers to the Persians, with authority to ask the ralers of that people to gi-ant him a dweUing-place in Oman, -with water and pasture for his cattle, so that he might Uve amongst thera. His messengers were courteously received by the Marzaban and his subordi nate officers. But after the latter had consulted with one another, they repUed to the messengers of MaUk-bin as fol lows : — " We do not -wish this Arab to settle amongst us, that our land should become straitened unto us ; we have no need of his neighbourship," No sooner had this raessage been conveyed to MaUk-bin, than he sent a second tirae to the Persians, saying, "I must positively settle in a district of Oman; if you accord rae wUUngly a share of the water, pro duce, and pasture, I shaU settle in the country and praise you. If, however, you refuse, I shall reraain in spite of you. If you attack me, I shaU resist you, and if I prevail against you, I shall slay you, and cany off your offspring, and shall not aUow one of you to remain in Oman," They, however, not only most peremptorily declined to receive his proposals, but, at the same time, prepared to wage war agamst him. The Marzaban finding himself, at length, in a position to take the field, salUed forth to meet his foe. 342 ARABIA, at the head of 40,000 troops, according to some writers, and 30,000 according to others. The opposing armies raet on the plain of Selut, During the night which pre ceded the battle, Malik-bin was occupied in marshalUng his forces in the order of battle, forming them into right and left wings, and centre. To his son, Honat, he gave the command of the right wing, and to his son Ferahid, the com mand of the left wing ; whUe he, clad in armour — over which he wore a red robe, and around his iron helmet a yeUow turban — and mounted on a piebald chaxgex, took command of the centre. In an obstinate and fieice battle which then took place, and which extended ovei thxee days, the Pexsian axmy was at last obliged to retreat, leaving on the well- contested field a very large number of kiUed and wounded. Amongst the Persian slain was found the body of the Mar zaban, The Persiaijs, fearing greatly lest they should be pursued by the Arabs, sent messengers to Malik-bin, their leader, demanding a trace, and a period of twelye months to evacuate Oman, and re-embark for Persia, On the news of this signal defeat reaching the ears of Kii^g Dara, he was fiUed with anger, and a. desire to avenge the destruction of his army. He, therefore, summoned into his presence one who was regarded as the most influential of his Marzabans, and giving him the comraand of 3,000 chosen troops, ordered hira to pioceed without delay to Oman, On the arrival of this force at its destination, the truce was immediately sus pended, and the war re-commenced with redoubled -vigour. It terminated, however, as did the former war, in favour of MaUk-bin and his faithful foUowers of the tribe el-Azd, the shattered remnant of the Persian army being only too glad to re-embark, with the sanction of the con queror, in their ships on a return voyage to the shores of their native land. Thus Malik, having ovenun the whole of Oman, assumed the sceptre and authority of an Iraaura or Sultan, He ruled his newly-acquired pos sessions with such a degree of prudence and wisdom that he attracted to Oman many other tribes of the el-.4zd. ARABIA. 343 These people gradually extended theraselves throughout the country, and developed the resources of its wide-spreading plains. They changed its narae from the Persian appel lation of Mazun to that of Oman, for the reason that it resembled, in many respects, their former horae which was situated in a weU-watered vaUey of Yeraen. Malik-bin, who was raore courageous and adventurous than any of the neighbouring princes, had the satisfaction of seeing his riUe firmly established and lus wealth considerably increased. And after a reign of "seventy years, during which tirae neither Axab noi Peisian opposed his rale, he died at the age," so says the analyst, " of one hundred and twenty yeais.'' When Mahomet had attained the plenitude of his powei, the inhabitants of Oman embxaced the doctrines which he had so zealously endeavoured to propagate. According to tradition, Mazin-bin-Ghadhubah, who was one of the prin cipal inhabitants of Oman, visited Mahomet, and entreated him to pray for the people of Oman. In compliance with this entreaty, the prophet immediately caUed upon the people of Oman to embrace the faith of Islam. He speciaUy called upon Abd and Jeifar, tbe raost powerful chiefs of Oraan, urging thera to erabrace the new faith, and proraising, in case they agreed to his proposition, to support them in their position as chiefs of the tribe. The council of the tribe ha'ving duly deliberated on the subject matter of Mahoraet's communication, resolved one and all to pay aUegiance to the prophet, and henceforth to practise the teaching embodied in his sacred writings. Thus the people of Oman became fol lowers of Mahomet, and since that period have stedfastly adhered to his doctrines. It ought, however, to be added that they are now, in some respects, regarded as hete rodox, having adopted the tenets of that sect of Moham medans which was founded by AbduUah ben Ibadh, and which, in consequence, is termed the Ibadhi sect. As the tenets of this sect, " owing to their pecuUar opinions regard ing the succession of Imaums," have greatly influenced the destiny of the inhabitants of Oman, it may prove interest- 344 ARABIA, ing and instructive to our readers to record them in ex tenso : — " The sect is denominated Ibadhi, after the Im§,m of the Muslims, 'AbduUah ben IbMh ben Teym-ehLat-ben Tha Jaben ben Eahat-el-EUnafben Kais-el-Teraimi, He it was who -withdrew from all the various ening sects, such as the Mo'tezeliyeh, the KMeriyeh, Sefatiyeh, the Jahmiyeh, the Khaw4rij Eowafidh, and the Shia'h, " He was the first to expose their false doctrines, and to nuUify the banefulness of their heresies by convincing argu ments and the clearest demonstration. He grew to manhood in the tirae of Mawiyeh ben Ali Safivan and lived to the time of Abd-el-Malek-bin Murw^n, to whora he -wrote his celebrated epistles and exhortations on moral conduct, " The origin of the sect is traced up to AbduUah ben-el- Abbass, and AbooshS, 'tha jabir-bin Zeyd, It derives from the people of Nahrawan and NakhUeh, and frora the survivors from the fields of Safinand-el-Jamal Further from the " companions," such as Aramer bin Y^sir Khozey meh bin Thabib (The-Shahadetein) Mahoraraed and AbduUah ben Mes'lid Hadifeb bin-el- Yeraon, Ma'^th ben Hebl, Abd-er- Eehra§,n-bin 'Owf, Selman the Persian BUat, the Abyssinian, S^hib the Greek, and Aisheh, mother of the Faithful. Also from the accepted and weU approved Khalifehs Abu Beker, and 'Omer, the companions of the FUght, and the Ans§,rs or coadjutors, may God be pleased with them aU, " Abdullah ben IbMh confuted the several faUacies in the doctrines of the various heretical sects, which have been shown in a previous partof this work. He taught that Faith (Iraara) consists both in word and deed, and in foUowing the precepts of traditional law, " In this reUgion there is no sanction excusing any short coming in respect of it. Nor is it permitted falsely to avow it. Nor to give way to the passions ; for this reUgion requires that the paths of righteousness be foUowed, and also beUef in the foUowing, viz, : — " In God and His Angels : in His Scriptures and Prophets : ARABIA, 345 in Paradise and HeU : in His promises and warnings : in the resurrection and the judgment and the Last Day: in the messages brought by the Prophets frora their Lord. It is also necessary to beUeve that the Kor^n is the word of God sent do-wn to His Apostle Mahoraraed : that His rewards are unrivalled, as His punishments are unequaUed, and that the mercies He vouchsafes are great, even as the trials He imposes are great. Also that God is the creator of all things. There is none other than He, His promises are not broken nor His threats unfulfilled, for His word is true. That all that has been revealed through Mahommed ben AbduUah is raanifest truth. " The raost High God : eyes perceive Hira not, but He comprehendeth the vision. He is all-knowing, AU-wise, The limits of the Heavens contain Hira not. He is God, There is none other God than He, the One, the Mighty, He is the Creator, who maketh aU things and giveth form thereto. Who raiseth up, and finaUy disposeth of aU, Lffe is His gfft, and He causeth to die. He is the Li-ving, who dieth not, AU- powerful, One and everlasting, unbegotten and unbegetting. AU powerful to do that He -wiUeth, Imagination compre hendeth Him not, nor do created forras reserable Hira, Neither raovement nor repose can be attributed to Hira, AU in earth and heaven is his, and that which is between. He knoweth aU things befoie they exist, Tirae changeth Him not, Possessoi of might, majesty, and power Undjring, ¦without compeei, companion, oi offspring. His woid goeth forth, and what He wUleth is. Praise be to Hira in whose hand is power over aU things to whom aU things revert, " The leUgion of Isham also is based on faith. This con sists in testifying that there is but one God, without co- paitnei; that Mahommed was His seivant and messengei, sent to guide to the trae religion, making it manifest to people of aU creeds, legaidless of the scoff of the infidel Since the religion was brought from God, it is raanffest trath, No doubt nor uncertainty attaches to it. As to the coming hour, there is no doubt of that, nor that God will raise the 346 ARABIA, dead from their graves. But Isleim, in its completeness, requires the practice of the following observances : — " Firstly. — Prayer, with its accompanying rites, conditions ; such as the necessary purifications and washings ; observance of appointed times, selecting a pure place, and turning towards the Kibleh, " Prayer must be off'ered, with earnest intention, and any word or deed calculated to affect the perfection of the act must be avoided. It is needful to understand the essential principles of prayer, to discrirainate between those forms pre scribed for persons at home and those for journeying. To know the observances for Fxiday? accoiding to the oidinances of the Almighty, as laid down by His Apostle and the just 'Ira§,ms,' who followed hira. The believei should be ac quainted with the foims of piayex fop festivals, fox the dead, and those to be lepeated in tinies of trouble. Also the dis tinctions of voluntary and sup^rerogatoxy pxayeis, and the xest as enjoined by the Piophet, "Secondly. — The payment of Zekat oi legal alms fiom such piopeity as the law oidains. The obligations regarding this must be understood, and the Zekat paid to the proper parties, where the Nisib (Estate) reaches the full value, the proper proportion being paid fyonj the flocks, " The Zekat-el-Fitr also njiust be paid ; that is, a Sa^ measure fiora the consuniption of each peison, The dole to be given to. the piopei peisons among the pooi, " Thixdly, — Fasting, which cansisfs in keeping the Fast of Eamadhan, with sobriety and abnegation, and in aU things attending to what is laid down, and abstaining fpom all that is foibidden by God and His Prophet, with knowledge of the piopex rites, "Fouithly, — PUgrimage to the Holy House of God for those who aie in a position to peifoxm it, with the enjoined' conditions, namely, abstaining fxom sin, tanying on Ailf§.t, -visiting the temple and making the ciicuit, and thiowing the stones, " These rites must be accorapanied by understanding of ARABIA, 347 the obUgations and laws of the pilgriraage, such as raaking atonement for slaying of game or the cutting down of trees, " Generally, it is necessary to observe the precepts of the KorS,u as to gifts to relations and parental piety, and acting righteously and avoiding evU, Also as to the Jehad or warring against infidels and rendering their dues to kinsfolk, wayfarers, &c. Instituted observances and civU laws must be attended to, includiag disuse of wine or other intoxicating hquor; also abstaining from food, or wearing of apparel forbidden by the Kor§,n. " It is forbidden to wail, beat the face, rend the garments, or tear the haU (in grief). It is forbidden to raake pUgrimage to the tomb of any, save the Prophet. Women are forbidden to adorn theraselves for any but their husbands, saving the wearing of a firiger-ring, and anointing the eyes with cal- lyrium. It is incumbent to salute the Faithful, and retum their salute. Silken clothes and gold are forbidden to men. In fine, the believer must avoid all that God has forbidden, whether mentioned or omitted, " It is essentiqil to be free from the error of those who hold that good and evil are of God, and that aU sins are capable of expiation, " Those who do the right, whether written or unwritten, should receive support. " It is necessary to be cleax of the enoxs of the sect of the Sefatiyeh, who beUeve that peisons who indulge in things forbidden by God and violate His prohibitions may stUl be in the faith ; and who doubt His promises and warnings, " The false doctrines of the sect caUed Morjiyeh are also renounced by the BeUevers (IbMhl), for they pretend that God -wUl punish them for a limited period, after which He will release them from torment, and cause them to enter Paradise, recei-ving them after being angered against them, " Let the errors of the sect of the Shi^h be repudiated. They who pretend that God has comraanded recognition of Vice-Eegents, executors of His will on earth, and obedience to them. 348 ARABIA. "They beUeve that God has bestowed on these Vice- Eegents (notwithstanding they be sinners treading the paths of error) power and dominion on earth, and that those who acknowledge and follow the Vice-Eegents are pardoned their sins through theU merits. " The false doctrines also must be shunned of those who assert the Kor^n to have an outward and apparent, and an inward and hidden meaning, the former known to mankind in general, but the latter only to God's inspired Vice-Eegents, by whom it is revealed to theU faithful foUowers. They hold also that God at no time leaves the world without an inspired Vice-Eegent. These are the tenets of the Ism§,iltyeh, a sect of the ES,fidhis. The latter are heretics, who deny Abu Bekr and Oraar, calUng them oppressors, who kept the rightful heirs from the Im^ra§,te. As to the Vicars of God on earth, they beUeve that a man wiU appear in the latter days, bringing verification of theU sayings. Another sect of errors is needful to be avoided — that of those who, like the Azarekeh, assert that persons dwelUng in abodes not governed by the rules sent down by God, wUl not be accepted of God. That their good deeds wiU not avail them ; nor are any such meet for reward, neither are their sins forgiven. They assert that God wiU not excuse any for remaining therein unless they remove, and that those who die befoie xeraoval, axe infidels. But that those who have leraoved, even though they be mur derers or adulterers, or thieves, are MusUms, and have their reward with God, and that in the abode to which they have reraoved none shaU be accounted irapious or wicked. It is even as if they were in the house of the Apostle of God. These Az§,rekeh also reject stoning (foi adulteiy) and the beating of the drinkei of intoxicating Uquoi, but aUow attack on those who aie inimical to their doctrines. These heresies must be avoided, " The IbMhis renounce the false teaching of those who hold that Muslims who commit mortal sins are to be accounted neither as believers nor yet infidels (but in a middle state), AR.VBIA. ;M0 and that God will punish this class of sinners otherwise than infidels are punished, " The IbMhi sect oppose their false teaching, who say that God is not the author of their actions, but that they them selves originate them, and that God does not guide the BeUevers, nor distinguish them by His guiding mercy ; but that guidance to truth and wandering to error are alike optional, to choose which they wiU, and that God wUleth not the actions of His servants, but that they are free to act in opposition to His wUl. These are the heresies of the KMiriyeh and M&tezeleh and the like, " It is heresy to assert that God compels His servants to acts of obedience or sin. It is also heresy to assert that God knoweth not aU things before they happen, such are the tenets of the Jahmiyeh and the like, which must be avoided. It is needful to renounce and be clear of aU who reject the Muslims and scoff at their religion. Also he renounces aU who do not take that part of the Muslims and who do not acknowledge the true ' Iman,' or who faU to aid those who do the right, whether laid down or not. "The foregoing are the Laws and Ordinances handed down to us by the just one frora another. We do not impose our EeUgion on chUdren of perdition. We do not submit to the guidance of the worldly. We have not derived our belief from the fooUsh and ignorant, " We have heard the Lord of mankind say in His per spicuous Book : — "'All ye who beUeve fear God and be with the just. Take no part with the Ucentious who work iniquity on earth and prosper not.' " We foUow the just whose truth is known, and whose justice is renowned ; who are of exceUent conduct and know ledge, the righteous, pious, and immaculate, excelUng in wisdom and nobleness, in probity and integxity; who eai- nestly attend to xeligious duties and obseivances, who axe in the odoux of religious learning, who have made religion 350 ARABIA, manifest to mankind, and cleansed it of the impure and handed it down fiom generation to generation. We have foUowed the right with tiuthfulness, and found it the most exceUent path. " We announce salvation to those who foUow the tiuth ; and woe and xuin to those who swerve fxom it. To the lattei we pioraise peidition and rejection on the Day of Judgment ; and we seek diiection of Almighty God, and I ask foigiveness of him and lepent of aU ray sins. God bless Mahommed His chosen apostle and his family and companions. Bless ings on the Angels and Piophets, aud aU BeUeveis fxom the beginning to the end of time/' 351 Chapter X. PEESIAN GULF AND PEESIA. Town of Muttra — Larak — Khismis — Ormus — Mounds of Salt — Aneient Portuguese Fort — Bunder Abbas — Luft — Linga — Bushire or Abus-char the town of Abu-Sudzebad — Bushire or Eeschire — Khalrak — Foa — Mahombrah. Re-embarking on boaid the S.S. " Penang," We directed our course towards the Guff of Orraus, as we were skirting the Arabian coast in a northerly direction, we passed so near to the town of Muttra as to obtain a very good -view of it. It ia apparently a larger town than Muscat, and the distance between the two places cannot, we think, extend over three miles. It nestles amidst barren mountains, by which on three of its sides it is surrounded, and as viewed from the sea, its doraes and graceful minaiets have a chaiming effect. The islands of Laiak and Khismis -weie the next places which came in view. About one-thiid of a raile fiora the west end of the fiist-mentioned island, theie stands a hill, which, owing to its conical shape, is a miniature xepiesenta- tion of Fusiama, the sacied mountain of Japan. The aspect of the Island of Khismis is arid and banen to a degiee. Qui leadeis will admit the trath of oui statement as to the hfeless and paiched appeaiance of this island, when we affiim that fiom its centie xise high table lands of sand, while its sea-encixcled shoxes axe entiiely naked, being devoid even of the oidinaiy fiinge oi belt of palra trees. And yet Tom Mooie, the Irish poet, has been pleased to designate this island (which, though the laigest in the Peisian Gulf, is after aU but a handful of sand on its waters), as — " The pleasant little island of Khismis." 352 PERSIA, and to speak also of — "Khismis's golden -mne.'' This island, which was caUed by the ancients Oanacta, is styled by the Arabs Jeziret-Tanile, and by the Persians Jeziret- Draas, Despite the very sterile aspect which it presents, it is said at one time (that is ere it had been overrun by Jowas- raee pUates), to have contained one hundred flourishing vil lages. Its present inhabitants, who are very few in number, gain a Uvelihood by wea-ving. Near to this place there is a large sand-bank, or bar, which is now and has been at aU times, the dread of navigators. It was here that the ships of Alexander the Great, when under the comraand of Nearchus, grounded, and it is here, too, that many vessels since the days of Nearchus, have experienced siraUar raishaps. Ac cording to Arrian, it was here Nearchus saw the tomb of King Erythras,* a sovereign after whom the Persian Guff was anciently naraed the Erythrean Sea, Proceeding on our course, we passed in close proxiraity to the Island of Ormus, the conical-shaped mountains of which island appear, when glittering under the rays of an eastern sun, as if they were covered with sno-w. This appearance arises from the fact that the peaks in question are formed of xock-salt. Indeed, so famous is Oiraus foi its raelting mounds of salt, that num beis of caiavans aiiive annually fiom Aiabia and Peisia to obtain supplies of so desirable a coraraodity. On this island, which was in the possession of the Portuguese fxom A,D. 1507 to A,D, 1622, thexe stands an old Poituguese foit of gieat diraensions, and which was buUt by no othei peisonage than the lenowned Albuqueique, Veiy neai to it there stands a towex, which xesembles a lofty column, and which was used, when the Poituguese weie in possession of the island, as a watch towex. Thus on its high surarait sentinels were stationed, in oidei that they raight desciy the neai appioach of invading ships ox fleets. Despite this stxong foitification, howevei, Oiraus was, in 1622, wrested by Shah Abbas, King * Erythras, a son of Perseus and Andromeda, was drowned in the Persian gulf, whioh from him was called Erythrseum Mare. PERSIA. 353 of Persia, from its Portuguese possessors. In this successful attempt of the conquest of Orraus, on the part of the Persian Shah, powerful assistance was granted to him by the English. To this island (which, excepting its salt-producing properties, is one of extreme barrenness) Milton refers in the following glowing terras : — " High on a throne of royal state which far Outshone the wealth of Ormus or of Ind, Or where the gorgeous east with richest hand Showers on her kings barbaric, gold and pearl, Satan exalted sat." In due tirae we arrived at the small Persian town of Bunder Abbas, which is situated on the shores of the guff, and owing to the sandy plains by which it is surrounded, has a very desolate and deserted appearance. The houses, which are buUt in some instances of stone and in others of mud, have tenaced roofs, and, as is the case in regard to the constraction of oriental buildings in general, they are fur nished with very few windows. The streets are very narrow, and the bazaars and markets are so enclosed as to resemble arcades. The shops, aU of which are open in front, and which are kept in some instances by Persians, and in others by Arabs, are weU stocked with articles of various kinds. The streets were raore or less thronged -with raen and woraen, the latter being very closely veUed. We observed many asses entering the town hea-vily laden with merchandize. Some of the bales which these useful animals were bearing contained fine wool ; others, cotton ; while not a few of them were filled with wheat. Many caraels also anived at the time of our visit with articles of commerce. The beUs with which the bridles of these asses and camels were adorned, forcibly reminded us of the twentieth verse of the fourteenth chapter of the book of the prophet Zechariah. In our rambles through the streets of Bunder Abbas, we called at a cara- vansera, which was two stories high, and contained, besides chambers for guests, a covered verandah or gaUery on each of its four sides. The courtyard which it enclosed, was in 2 A 354 PERSIA. the form of a paraUelogram. Going a short distance beyond the city, we arrived at a graveyard which contained a few dUapidated Mohararaedan tombs, and from this point we had a magnificent view afforded us of the mountain called Jebel Gennsh. This mountain range which is, as it were, the rear boundary of Bunder Abbas, rises to an altitude of 7,690 feet above the level of the sea, and presents a most imposing appearance. On our return through the streets of the town, an EngUsh raastiff, which had accompanied us in our peregrinations, on being attacked by two pariah dogs, immediately entered upon a bloody fight with his canine aggressors. The fierce encounter which ensued quickly drew together an assemblage of Persians and Arabs, who, in con- forraity to our wishes, earnestly endeavoured to sepaiate the corabatants. This desUe, howevei, was not accomplished untu " Bill," foi such was the name of the raastiff, had seriously injuied one of his opponents and neaily woi-iied the othei to death. This dog, a splendid speciraen of the raastiff bleed, was the pioperty of an English gentleman, lesiding at Bundei Abbas. Oui next voyage was fiom the town, which we have just described, to the Persian port of Linga, which, at one peiiod of its histoiy, was the chief town of the Jowasmee piiates on the Peisian coast. Duiing the voyage we sighted the port of Luft, which is situated on the bank of a deep inlet formed by marshy islands that occupy the bay of Luft to the west and south-west. It was several years ago a piratical stronghold. In the years 1809-10, however, H.M.S. " Chiffonne " attacked this place, and the result was that not only were many pirates killed, but the whole pUatical con federation, if we raay so term it, was completely destroyed. At the termination of our voyage from Bunder Abbas to Linga,- which was one of brief duration, there was not much to interest us, the last-mentioned town being smaU and insignificant. It looked tolerably well frora the deck of the stearaer, but upon entering it we found that it con sisted of houses constructed of mud. Of these houses PERSIA. 355 some reserable fortifications. Nearly all the dweUings of which it consists are provided with terraced or flat roofs. Some of the few streets and bazaars by which it is inter sected are in the forra of arcades. They were thronged by crowds of well-dressed Persians and Arabians, and owing to the gay costuraes of these citizens, and the brightness of the sun, presented a very gay and aniraated appearance. , Entering a coffee-house, we found ourselves in the raidst of a nuraber of natives, all of whora were either drinking coffee or smoking hookahs. Two Persians, who were present, ad dressed us in the EngUsh language, and, having exchanged salutations with us, invited us to take coffee -with thera. This in-vitation we gladly accepted, and entered heartUy into the conversation which ensued. Of the raany persons who were in this caf6, some were discussing poUtics, others were debating on business transactions, whUe not a few were idling. On withdrawing frora this place of refresh ment we repaUed to the Government House where we were most kindly received by the Sheik or Governor of the place. He was a very handsome young raan, and sought to please and entertain us in a variety of ways. After par taking of water-melons, sherbet, and coffee with this official, horses were placed by him at our service in order that we might, with greater comfort to ourselves, explore the city and its environs. This kind offer, however, we raost respectfuUy declined. As the Governor was evidently very busy in the discharge of his official duties, and more especiaUy in holding converse with three or four envoys, who had recently come from the Persian court to receive at his hands treasure to the extent of 40,000 mpees, we begged to take leave. As we were in the act of taking our departure, he suggested to us that if we were admirers of Arabian horses, a visit to his stable might add to our gratification. Acting on this sugges tion we repaired to his stable. The horses, however, which we found there, though good, were inferior in aU respects to those which we had previously seen in the stables of the Sultan of Muscat. Hearing that Linga, owing to the scarcity 2 A 2 356 PERSIA. of rain, was provided with water-tanks, we hastened to in spect them. They proved uninteresting, each being small and not raore than fifteen feet deep. In point of shape some were circular, with doraed roofs, whUe others were square, with convex roofs. We lingered, for sorae time, in a date- palm gi-ove by which the town is skirted in the rear, and from whence a good view is obtained of a not far distant mountain range, one peak of which is 3,900 feet above the level of the sea. On oui letuin to the beach, we visited a smaU shipyaid in which native ship buUdeis were busily engaged either in building or repairing Persian junks. On re-embarking, we stearaed towards Bushire, or Abuschar, " the town of Abu," Like the preceding voyages which we have described, this one was of no great length. On arriving at Bushire, we were obliged, in consequence of the shaUo-wness of the water, to anchor at a distance of two English railes frora the town, A number of Persian boats, however, put off from the shore, so that in a very short space of time after our arrival we were literally sunounded by such craft. Having arranged aU preliminaries for our deba.rkation, we entered one of these boats, and so proceeded to the shore for the purpose of exploring the waUed town of Bushire, The town, which is in lat. 29 °N., long. 50° 51^' E., is situated on the north point of a low peninsula. This peninsula is a dry sandy desert, subject to inundations by high tides. At a distance of six miles from the town, this desert is bounded by a range of raountains, the highest peak of which — Hormutsh by name — has an altitude of 10,000 feet above the level of the sea. But though all the country around Bushire presents a scene of extrerae sterility and banenness, its raarkets are well supplied with "creature comforts," fruits, vegetables, sheep, goats, buUocks, and fowls being brought thereto, in suitable quantities, frora the inland country. On taking up our quarters at the Eesidency, where we were most hospitably entertained by Colonel Eoss, Hei' Majesty's Political Agent and Consul-General at Bushire, we PERSIA. 357 went forth in search of objects of interest. The mosques were the first places to which we directed our steps. Of these sacred buildings, however, there was not one which was at aU imposing, either in point of size or architectural beauty. The principal ofthese b uildings was styled the Friday mosque, for the reason that on each Friday — the Sabbath of the Mohammedans — it was resorted to by the great bulk of the population, in order to pray, and to hear an exposition of the doctrines of the Mohammedan faith. To the Armenian church, which is in the forra of a cross, the chancel being sur mounted by a dorae, we next repaUed, and, on arriving there, were not a Uttle surprised to find in its cloisters, and the burial ground by which it is surrounded, raany graves of Enghshmen. In one of these graves rest the remains of Cora modore Ethersey, of the Indian Navy, who during the last war which Great Britain waged with Persia, coraraitted suicide on being superseded by an officer of Her Majesty's Navy. A rude construction of raasonry raarks his torab. There is, however, no tablet. On entering the church we observed on the walls three or four marble tablets, in honour of departed British officers and others. On these tablets the foUowing inscriptions were recorded : — Sacred To the Memory of Lieuts, W, B, Wanen & M, C, Utterson, of the XX Eeg*, Bombay N,I,, who died of wounds received at the storming of the Fort of Eushire on the 9*" DeC, 1856, This Tablet is erected to their raeraory by their Brother Officers, by whora their deaths are deservedly and sincerely regretted. 358 PERSIA. BENEATH THIS STONE REST THE MORTAL REMAINS OF COLONEL JAMES STOPFORD, C.B. H.M. 64™ REGIMENT WHO WAS KILLED AT THB STORMING OF RUSHIRE THE 9™ OP DECEMBER, 1856, AGED 47 "VEARS. Sacred To the Memory of George Greenville Malet, Lieutenant-Colonel Commanding 3'^^ Eegiment Bombay Light Cavalry, Bom 7"^ March A.D, 1805, KUled in action at Eas Eeshire 9^ DeC^, A,D, 1856. " I am the resurrection and the Ufe, saith the Lord : he that believeth in me though he were dead yet shaU he live," — John xi, 25, D. 0, M, HIC, REQVIESCIT lANE, LILLIAS, YOVNG DAVIDIS, WILSON RERVM, BRITANNICARVM IN, SINV. PERSICO, PRABFECTI CONIVX PROPTER, LAETAM, INDOLEM INGEMIVM. ACRE. ET. CVLTISSIMVM ATQ-VE. ANIMAM. 'CANDIDISSIMAN A. VIRO. VNICE. DILECTA XXX, DIES, POST, FILIAM, PARTAM PERSIA, 359 LENI. MORBO. IMPLICITA IVVENIS. IVVENI. EREPTA. EST IX. APRILIS. MDCCCXXVII ETATIS. XXX. ANNO. As we withdrew from this Armenian church, we were very naturally raoved to look upon the Arraenians residing at Bushue, with feelings of kindness and gratitude in having generously granted resting places in their graveyard to so many of our countrymen. We, therefore, in bidding adieu to the priest — a very handsorae man, who during our visit to the church had shown us kind attentions — ventm-ed to express our gratitute. His reply was in effect that we were bretliren, and bound, consequently, to love one another. We now hastened to the bazaars, and on our way passed along a street, on either side of which were several Mohammedan tombs, in a very dUapidated state. On entering the bazaars, which are situated beyond the gate of the city, and near to the principal wharf or landing place, we found that they were constructed in the form of arcades, and teeming with fruits, food, and merchandise of various kinds. Of rose-water, too, we saw very large suppUes, It is raanu factured at Shiraz, thence it is conveyed to BushUe and othei Peisian raaits, foi sale. Here, appaiently, were asserabled men of raany eastem nations, each weaiUig the costurae of his native land, SiraUai sights we had aUeady seen. Not one, howevei, had thus fax pioved raoie attxactive and intexesting to us than the one of which we axe now speaking. Passing thiough raany nanow streets, which were formed of taU, fiat-roofed, or terraced houses, we arrived, eventually, at the fort and magazine of BushUe, Here, however, there was not rauch to interest us. On our way to the Eesidency, we were again caUed upon to traverse other narrow streets, and as we raoved onwards, we observed that the houses of which these streets consist have, according to Oriental custora, no windows looking into the thoroughfares. Nearly aU of them were provided with wind-towers, that is, square-built 360 PERSIA, stractures which are open on one side to the wind. As toweis of this natuxe convey rauch aix to the houses on the tops of which they aie eiected, they aie, iu the summei months of the yeai, deeraed veiy necessaiy to the health, corafort, and well-being of the inmates. At inteivals, we met Peisian women who -were so thickly veiled as to lender walking, on their part, a matter of no ordinary difficulty: On reaching the Eesidency, we would fain have rested for a little time, being more or less overcorae by the heat of the sun. An indulgence of this nature, however, was irapossible, as it was now tirae for us to accompany Colonel Eoss to his residence at Sudzebad, Mounted on a beautiful Arabian horse we, with Colonel Eoss, Dr, Waters, and Mr Edwards, of the Eesidency, rode towards the place in question. Shortly after leaving Bushire, we passed in the desert an EngUsh ceraeterj'-, in which raany British soldiers Ue buried. The largest of the graves, and the only one which bears an inscription, is that in which rest the remains of General Stalker, of the Indian army, who comraitted suicide after the capture of Bushire, on the part of the British, This raelancholy and rash act was committed by General Stalker, on account of jealousy, he having been superseded by an officer of the Queen's Army. The night in which this general officer was buried, certain evU men — Persians — thinking, of course, that his sword and other valuable ornaments of dress had been buried with hira, attempted to exhume the body. When, however, they were engaged in this attempt, a very large portion of the loose earth feU upon the man, who, for the accompUshment of this -svicked purpose, had entered the grave, and UteraUy crushed him to death. Jour neying onwards, we saw several men who were busUy engaged in gathering the dung of horses, asses, and cattle, from the high road. Excrement of these various kinds Persians dry in the sun, and then regard it as suitable fuel for their fires. We also passed a family of Persian ladies, who were going from BushUe with the view of spenduig the hot sumraer raonths in their country-house at Sudzebad. Each PERSIA. 361 of these ladies was riding on an ass. These asses were one and aU of a white colour, and some of them, by means of yeUow henna, were stained in such a way as to reserable zebras. The next object which attracted our attention was a caravansera, or corapany of traveUing merchants, who by means of two hundred weU-formed and weU-fed black asses, were conveying their merchandize towards Bushire. StiU advancing, we passed in due time an ancient tomb, which contains the remains of a distinguished Mohammedan saint, who was a near relative of the prophet Mahomet. Several of the descendants of this Mohammedan saint occupy a sraall -viUage, which is in close proximity to his tomb, and as their iUustrious forefather was closely alUed by ties of consanguinity to Mahomet, they wear, as is their privUege, green turbans. These people, too, bury their dead in a graveyard, which is bounded on one of its four sides by the doraed torab of their once saintly ancestor. At frequent intervals along the road, we passed weU-cultivated lands on which were growing either cotton, melons, or cucumbers. To the last-mentioned products, foxes and jackals, which are very nuraerous in Persia, prove raost destructive ; while to aU plants which have bulbous roots, porcupines, which also prevail largely in the country, are great eneraies. These fretful creatures burrow into the earth with their noses, and fatten upon the various bulbs with which they corae in contact. We also passed several sraaU vineyards, each of which was enclosed by a circular wall of stone. The vines, we ob served, were planted in holes, each of which was five or six feet in depth. On reaching Sudzebad, we were raost kindly received and entertained by Mrs. Eoss. On the raorniag foUowing our arrival, rising at a very early hour, our attention was dUected to an ancient pyramidal mound con taming large bricks, on each of which are inscribed cuneiform characters. Of the origin and history of this singular mound we could learn no particulars. We now rode over a vast plain, and skirted the site on which formerly stood the 362 PERSIA. ancient city of Eeschire, but of which city there is, at this period, now not one stone left upon another. Indeed, nearly all traces of it seera to have been obliterated, and it is essentiaUy a thing of the past. Eiding stiU further along this plain, "we reaohed an old fort, which to us, as English raen, was somewhat rich in point of historical associations. Thus in December, a.d. 1856, when Great Britain was waging a successful war with Persia, this fort was attacked and captured by British troops. It was here that two brave young officers. Lieutenants Warren and Utterson, of the 20th Eegiment, B.N.L, feU fighting for theU country. Here, too. Brigadier Stopford, of H.M.'s 64th Eegiment, feU whUe in the very act of exclaiming "Forward, Sixty-fourth!" Here, too. Colonel Malet, of the 3rd Eegiraent of Bombay Light CavaUy, shared a similar fate. Here, also. General Stalker, Brigadier Trevelyan, Captain Finiiimore, and several others, had haU-breadth escapes. After riding onwards, for some time, we arrived at the country-house of Mr. Edwards, the very extensive garden and grounds by which it is surrounded, forraing, as it were, an oasis in the desert. The garden was blooraing with flowers, whUe the grounds, owing to the presence of a vast number of flowering trees, caUed the golden moir, were literaUy radiant. Within these grounds there was standing a large dove-cote of brickwork, weU-stoeked -with pigeons of various breeds and colours. And here we may observe in passing, that, in Persia, pigeons are xeaied in laige numbeis, not so rauch on the scoie that they are beautfful biids as for the reason that their dung is regarded by the Persians as the best of aU manures to enrich melon and cucumber beds. We now dUected our horses' heads towards Bushire, where, at half-past eleven o'clock, A,M,, our presence was requUed to solemnize a marriage between two Armenians, naraely, Mr. Arsham Joseph Malcolm and Miss Sarah Malcolm, The marriage, which took place at the British Eesidency, was attended by merabers of the principal lead ing Arraenian faraiUes residing at Bushire, The bridal pair PERSIA, 363 were married according to the rites and ceremonies of the Church of England, The features of the bride, who was a most beautiful woman, were for some tirae concealed by a thick veU, richly embroidered with gold, which she wore over her head At the close of the cereraony. Colonel Eoss, H,B,M. Consul-General and Political Agent, in whose pre sence the ceremony was perforraed, most kindly provided wine and cake in honour of the occasion, and, in eloquent and feeUng terms, proposed the health of the happy pair. We afterwards went, on in-vitation, to the house of the bride groom, where the wedding nuptials were beiug duly celebrated. WhUe a very large party of Arraenian ladies and gentlemen were partaking of breakfast, Seedy girls or African woraen were dancing and singing to the sound of druras and castanets ; at frequent intervals, too, the Persian female servants of the Malcolm faraily raade a sliriU noise as expressive of their joy. Together with a profusion of cakes, a pair of gUded wax candles were presented by the host and hostess to each guest. On withdra-wing frora this maniage feast, which was a scene of great merriraent, we immediately embarked for Bussorah. Shortly after leaving Bushire, on our voyage to the port in question, we sighted the Island of Kharrak, which, though devoid of trees, looked tolerably green. It is about twelve mUes in length and six in breadth, and is situated m lat. 29° 15' 20" N., and long. 50° 18' 50" E. It produces melons and grapes, and various kinds of vegetables in large quantities. It contains several rock-cut caverns or caves, in which it was custoraary to bury the bodies of the Ghebers or ancient fire-worshippers of Persia. There is also near to these caverns a tomb in which, a.d. 1652, were placed the mortal reraains of the renowned Mohararaedan saint, Meer Hunniffi Karrak, it is said, was at one period of its history, a Danish settlement. The Dutch, too, it appears were its occupants for some time. In proof of this last stateraent, we may observe that there stands on the island an old fort, which was built by a Dutch Baron naraed Kniphausen, Under the governorship of this Dutchman the island speedily became 364 PERSIA, a flourishing settlement, SaUing onwards from Kharrak, we arrived at a smaU viUage caUed Foa, which is situated on the banks of the Schatel-Arab, and is occupied by the Turks as a telegraphic station. In due time, too, we passed the Persian town of Mahombrah, which stands on the banks of the Eiver Kaurim, and is famous for a short but severe engagement which, in the year 1856, took place between British and Persian troops. As we were steaming past the residence of the Persian Governor, who is a man of very great age, our ship fired, as is customary, we beUeve, a salute of one gun in honour of his ExceUency. This corapUraent was quickly returned in a precisely siraUar raanner. As Mahorabrah was the last Persian town which we had an opportunity of seeing, let us now conclude our remarks ou the subject of Persia by obsei-ving that one of the great dis advantages — to say nothing of others — under which she labours, is a great scarcity of water. Streams in this land are certainly not perennial in their flow. For, during the heat of summer, they UteraUy become dry, and thus the expression the "bed ofa streara" becoraes, in the language of the country, the common phrase for a river. In districts, nevertheless, which are dry, a vegetation, consisting of date trees, camel's thorn, fig trees, saline and gum-yielding plants, araong which raay be named the Ferula assafoetida, is very abundant. From the milky juice of this last-mentioned root, the gura resin caUed after it, is obtained, and constitutes an iraportant article of coraraerce. Oak, beech, elm, walnut, cypress, and box trees grow, also, in large quantities in various parts of the kingdora, while wheat, cotton, opiura, and indigo, are araongst its principal products. The passage frora Mahorabrah to Bussorah was speedUy accorapUshed, and on debarking we became the guests of Mr, Cunningham, by whom, during our visit, we were most hospitably entertained. 305 Chapter XI, MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYEIA, Bussorah — Maaglul — River Tigris — Amarah — Kurnah — Q-arden of Eden — Tomb of Ezra — Ali-Q-herby — Kut al Amarah — Ctesiphon — Selucia — Desert — Bedouins — Babylon — Hillah — Birs-Nimroud — Baghdad — Kaze main — Ager Kouf — Hirer Euphrates — Kiffrey — Return to Bombay — Aden — Red Sea, On the day foUowing our arrival at Bussorah, we entered upon the duty of exploring that city. Before, however, we enter upon a description of its streets and mosques let us observe, in the first place, that it was founded by Caliph Omar shortly after the battle of Cadesia, which took place a,d, 636, It stands on the west bank of the Schatel Arab, which river has a course of one hundred railes frora the city in question, to the Persian Guff, It is the capital city of a province of Turkish Arabia, and, as such, is the seat of a provincial or local govern ment presided over by a Pasha, It was, at an early period of its history, enclosed by a weU-fortified waU, and was one of the largest and raost flom-ishing cities in the East, The waU, which is now in a very dUapidated state, has a cUcura- ference of five or six miles. During a walk which we took along the now deserted ramparts of these walls we observed sorae large pieces of ordnance. On one of these guns, which appeared to be of exqmsite raanufacture, was recorded, in the Turkish language, an inscription, of which the foUowing is a literal trans lation : — "Fureidoon, Darak-Leike, Minister of Justice, Leike Hyder Softer, and Ali Pasha gave Davood this faraous cannon. It was manufactured by order of Syed Kodham, May the result of this order — a bronze cannon — ever be 366 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, crowned with conquest and prosperity. Its weight is 330 maunds. A, H, 1219," Frora the waUs of the city we obtained, at intervals, ex tensive views of the surrounding country, and thereby learned that the plains which adjoin the city, are not only famous for their extensive date plantations or groves, but for vast fields of roses, which fiowers are, of course, cultivated for dis tiUation, Of rose-water in this manner obtained, large quantities are sold in the marts of Bussorah, On the marshy lands rauch rice is grown, whUe the Uquorice plant flourishes abundantly on the banks of the noble river Schatel Arab. On visiting the bazaars we found that, in point of archi tectural style, they were strictly Oriental, being in the form of arcades. Of these bazaars one was of great length, and in the shops of which it consisted, articles of various kinds were exposed for sale. Coffee-houses, too, were numerous, and in some cases extensive. In front of each of these places of refreshment, many Tm-ks, in a serai-recurabent posture, were sraoking pipes of tobacco, and drinking strong coffee. The objects of interest to which we next directed our attention, were Mohararaedan raosques, Jewish synagogues, and Christian churches. Of these houses of prayer, the first which we visited was the mosque caUed Jama-al-Arab. Near to this edifice, which is not large, stands a minaret, ha'ving an altitude of sixty or seventy feet, and which column, owing to its lack of perpendicularity, may be described as a leaning tower. As the muezzin was, at the time of our visit, in the act of ascending this singularly constructed minaret for the purpose of calUng the foUowers of Mahoraet to prayers, we gladly avaUed ourselves of the permission which he accorded us, to accompany him. From the top of this tower we obtained an extensive view not only of the somewhat modern city of Bussorah which lay at our feet, but also of the few vestiges which mark the site on which stood an ancient city of the same narae. Of these remains of antiquity, one mound of masonry was especially conspicuous, proudly raising its rugged head above the overflowing waters of the neighbour^- MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 367 ing Eiver Euphrates, These high and wide spreading waters deprived us, we regxet to say, of visiting the nuns in question. Passing onwards, we arrived at the mosque ¦ caUed Jama-al- Gawaz, which is said to be three hundred and ninety years old, while its rainaret has not, perhaps, braved raore than one himdred and fifty years. Near to this tower, the outer waUs of which are inlaid with glazed bricks of different colours, there stands a doraed torab, the waUs of which are also adorned with bricks of variegated hues. This tomb, however, was rapidly falUng into a state of decay. Having -visited these and other mosques of Bussorah, we in the next instance gave our attention to the principal synagogue, which is a very smaU and unpretending edifice. At the tirae of our visit, a number of Jews were praying, or, perhaps, we ought to say holding divine service on the terrace rather than in the courts ofthe synagogue. This circumstance, which, at first sight, appeared singular, did not at aU surprise us, inasmuch as we were, after a raoment's reflection, reminded that the uses which the Jews made of the tops, or terraces of theu houses were various. Thus, for example, they kept public mourning on the house-top, " On the tops of theU houses and in their streets every one shaU howl, weeping abun dantly"— Isaiah XV, 3. Here, too, they offered sacrifices, " Be cause of all the houses upon whose roofs they have burned incense unto aU the host of heaven, and have poured out drink offerings unto other gods" — Jer. xix, 13. Here, too, they made pubUc announcements to the people, a circurastance this which moved our Lord, when addressing His disciples, to say, " What ye hear in the ear, that preach ye upon the house tops" — Matt. X, 27. Here too they prayed. Thus St. Peter, when the messengers of ComeUus were seeking hira, had " Gone up upon the house-top to pray" — Acts x, 9. In a recess or niche of this synagogue were placed two or three copies, in the form of scrolls, of the Pentateuch. These works, written rather than printed, in the Hebrew tongue, were beautiful specimens of caUgraphy. It is cus tomary for Jewish famiUes to write copies of the sacred 368 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. books of Moses, and to present them, as marks of reverence, to the synagogues. Sons, on being bereaved of their parents, not unfrequently engage in such meritorious works. In the same street in which this synagogue stands, we observed a house, above the door of which were carved the foUowing figures — 1755. It was, more than a century ago, inhabited ' by an Englishraan, who at the period in question, was, it is said, the only Briton residing in Bussorah. We now directed our steps to the church of the Chaldaean Christians. This church, which is approached by a dark low- roofed passage, foxras one side of a sraaU quadrangle, and was founded two bundled and forty yeais ago. The loof thereof is suppoited by thick squaie pillais of brick work. Within the door there is a picina or vessel containing holy water, and with which water each meraber of the congregation on enter ing, besprinkles himseff. On the altar there stands a crucifix, which is surrounded by many wax candles. In the quadrangle, of which, as we have already stated, the church forms. one side, there are three or four tombs ; and on the stone by which one of thera is covered, and which is even with the ground, there is recorded the following Latin epitaph : — Hic jacet Eaphael Joannes Babick Sacerdos, Natione Arraenius, ObUt Die XIX January, Anno Doraini mdcclxiii. Closely adjoining this church stands the priest's residence, the lower story of which greatly reserables a monastic institu tion. The priest, who is a married man, received us with great kindness, and after introducing us to his wife and sons, invited us to partake of coffee. He also showed us his vest raents, which, in our opinion, were not very dissimUar to those which are worn by priests of the Church of Eorae, We also -visited the Arraenian church, the nave of which presents a dark and gloomy appearance, and were surprised on observing that the baptismal font was placed in close proximity to the altar, rather than within the great doors of the church. It is in the form of an ordinary water trough. MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 369 and occupies a recess in the waU, A curtain drawn in front of this niche conceals the font frora pubUc view, AU raen who are raerabers of this congregation, occupy the nave of the church, while women occupy a smaU and dark gaUery, which is enclosed in front by a high wooden lattice. This gallery greatly reminded us of the gaUeries which, in ancient Chris tian churches, were especiaUy set apart for the reception of lepers and excomrauuicated persons. We faded not to observe the great freedora which Jews and Christians aUke enjoyed in the raidst of this Mohararae dan city, aU reUgionists worshipping God according to the dictates of theU own conscience without apparently the dread of being raolested or interfered with by anyone. As we were passing along the streets, we were rauch struck with the appearance of the houses, of which they consist. The doorways by which raany of these dwelUngs are entered, are very low, and stand several feet below the level of the ground. The doors, too, by which they are enclosed are, in many instances, most elaborately carved. There is a great advantage gained by erecting the first story of the house a few feet below the level of the street, inasmuch as the lower rooms of the dwelUng afford, in consequence, a cool aud refreshing retreat, during the great and almost unendurable heat of summer. Of the many Turkish houses, however, which we had an opportunity of visiting during our stay at Bussorah, the most iraposing, in point of size and arrangeraents, was one occupied by a German physician named Ashy. Ha-ving been told that a market, for the sale of cattle, sheep, and horses was being held, we resolved to -visit it. On arriving at the place in question, we saw several fine looking mUch cows with their calves, on sale. Sheep and goats, too, were being offered for sale in large nurabers. The sheep were of a pecuUar breed, having long broad tails. The horses were not nuraerous. There were, however, a few Arabian steeds which, owing to their excellent symme trical properties, greatly attracted the attention of intending 2b 370 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. purchasers. Mules and asses were, also, on sale. Of the latter class of animals, several were large, and of a mUk white colour. With the -view, however, of rendering the appearance of many of these animals more attractive, they were, in some instances, striped by raeans of yeUow henna, so as to reserable zebras, and in other instances spotted by means of the same material, so as to resemble animals of the Tangura breed. These white asses had, we were told, been imported from Barein in Arabia, In the vicinity of this raarket several persons had bundles of fresh grass for sale ; and as the various quadrupeds to which we have referred, needed sustenance, they raet with a ready deraand for the coraraodity which they were then offering. As we were returning from this market, we had occasion to pass through a street which, o-wing to the quantities of old clothes which were being exposed for sale, we termed Petticoat Lane, As this market, at the tirae of our visit, was being brought to a close, we observed that all articles of apparel which had not been pre-viously disposed of by private sale, were, then and there, sold by pubUc auction. One of these dealers in old clothes, however, with the view of disposing of his surplus stock, had recourse to a gambUng scheme, rather than to a sale by pubUc auction. Thus, he placed, at intervals, a variety of articles of wearing apparel on the margin of a large cUcular table, and upon re ceiving certain stakes or sums of money from men and boys, by whom the table was sunounded, he set in motion a hand, resembUng the hand of a clock, which was made to move on a pivot placed in the centre of the table. The article opposite to which the hand in question, after making a few revo lutions, stopped, was declared the property of one of the speculators. This hand, we noticed, not unfrequently, pointed towards an empty space on the raargin of the table, whereupon the old clothes dealer received the stakes, whUe the specu lators went away erapty. We also met in this same street — Petticoat Lane — several women, who were seUing fresh railk and butter milk. Our MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 371 rambles on this day were brought to a close by a visit wluch we paid to a sheik. As the evening was very bright and warm, he was sitting in state in the courtyard or quadrangle of his residence, where many guests, both Turks and Arabs, were asserabled to pay their respects to hira. At the request of our host, we, together with the other visitors, sat on a long ottoman, which, for the occasion, had been arranged in the quadrangle. After the ordinary salutations had been exchanged, an animated political conversation, ha-ving an especial reference to the future designs of the Czar of Eussia, in regard to Turkey, imraediately ensued. It was a conver sation, however, in which we could only take part through the medium of an uiUntelUgent interpreter, and it, therefore, faded to prove of any very great interest to us. Sherbet and coffee having been served to each guest, we rose frora our seat, and respectfuUy took leave of the sheik. Before leaving the quadrangle we turned aside to inspect eleven Arabian steeds, forming the stud of the sheik, and which, owing to the great heat which prevaUs during the summer, were stabled in the open aU. They were noble-looking animals, and were evidently a source of pride to theU owner, who, whUst he sat on his ottoraan, sunounded by guests, not unfrequently cast his eyes towards thera, with e'vident satisfaction, ' On the foUowing day, we visited several khans, which, we thought were very singular buildings. Each consisted of a weU-roofed or covered courtyard, in the forra of a paraUelo gram, On each side of the courtyard were several rooms in which travelUng merchants were lodging, their respective packages of merchandize being deposited, for sale, in the covered courtyard of the khan. The proprietor of the khan is repaid for the trouble which he incurs in entertaining these merchants, by a commission which he receives on the sale of each package of raerchandize, on the part of either the pur chaser or seUer of the case of merchandize in question. Withdrawing frora these khans, we directed our steps to the grain market. On our way thither we visited a prison, in a large cell of which we noticed a prisoner who was 2b2 372 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, earnestly conversing, through an iron grating, with a well- dressed Turk, Tbis unhappy man, on seeing us, turned his attention frora his countryraan, and addressing himself to us, begged of us, if possible, to intercede with the Pasha on his behalf. Frora this same prison, on the day preceding our arrival at Bussorah, three criminals, who had been con-victed of an act of piracy committed on the 13th June, 1872, on board the British s.s, " Cashmere," were led forth to execution. It appeared that a telegrara had been received by the Pasha or Governor of Bussorah frora the central Govemraent at Constantinople, ordering the immediate execution of these raen by strangulation. At raidnight, theiefoie, -they weie taken fiom piison and executed, not togethei, but each iu a diffeient pait of the city. The Ufeless bodies of these male- factois weie left hanging on the gaUows, as a waming to men, untU noon of the foUowing day. Each gaUows con sisted of thiee long poles, which were placed togethei in such a mannei as to resemble the position of so many poles, when elected to support weighing scales. As a rale executions at Bussoiah take place on a bridge, spanning a creek which fiows thiough the gxeat bazaai of the city. On ani-ving at the grain raaiket we found it well stocked with wheat, bailey, rice, and peas. The giains which we have specified, were not contained in bags, but xathei exposed in laige heaps. The vaiious giain dealeis, who were sheltei- ing themselves fxom the sun undex low mat huts, came, on hearing oui voices, fxom theU xespective letieats, and ex- piessed theii leadiness to tiansact business with us. Learn ing, howevei, that we weie not traveUing meichants, they once moie sought a lefuge fiom the sun by ciawUng Uito theii huts. In the vicinity of this maiket, we obseived some woraen who, by means of a hand-miU, weie gxinding giain. This act, on theii pait, greatly leminded us of that passage of sciiptuxe, which sets foith the foUowing trath, "Two woraen shaU be grinding at a miU, the one shall be taken and the othei left." MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 373 A mosque, which stands in close pioximity to the grain market, next attracted our attention. The mosque, ho-w- ever, did not prove so much an object of interest to us as did a Turkish school which was attached to it. The seminary in question was crowded with pupils, each of whora was squatting on the ground, and reading aloud portions of the Koran. Each youth, when reading, rested his book on a wooden stand made in the form of the letter X, We were much struck -vrith the discipUne which prevailed in this school, the pupUs being not only diUgent in their studies, but also obedient and respectful to their preceptor. Each boy, who -wished to withdraw fox a few moraents fiora the school, raised his hand above his head, which raovement, on being obseived by the mastei, was imraediately acknow ledged. As we were passing thiough the stieets on oui return to Mi. Cunningham's lesidence, we met several native women aU of whom were closely veiled. Moving onwaids oui at tention was dUected, in the next instance, to a benevolent wayfaieis' institution, in which many weie quenclung theii thiist — the use of wine being piohibited by the Koran — by diaughts of cold water The vessels by means of which the watex was administeied to the thiisty, wexe raade of pewtex, and with the -view of preventing theii lembval, each was hound by a long chain to an Uon bar We now turned aside to -visit a livery stable, in which were stalled several noble-looking Arabian horses. This stable yard was in the form of a paraUelogram, and on each side theieof were stables foi the hoises and apartments for the grooms. The horses e-vidently received great kindness and attention at the hands of their grooras, and there was, consequently, between horses and men a very good under standing. We have frequently heard and read that, between Arabians and their horses, much affection prevaUs, This fact, however, we fully realized on the occasion of our visit to this stable. On withdrawing from this place a very untoward circum- 374 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, stance occurred, A dog belonging to one of our corapanions, bit severely an Arab youth, who, with his father, was passing along the street. We expected, of course, that an angry altercation would in consequence arise. The contrary,^ how ever, was the case, as not a word by way of retaliation was uttered. We were indeed struck with the reraarkable raanner in which the injured youth and his father evinced theU faith in the fataUstic doctrine of the prophet Mahoraet, Having thoroughly explored Bussorah, we, on the special invitation of Mr, Carter, went on a -visit to MaaghU, This place, which is situated at a distance of four or five mUes frora Bussorah, stands on the banks of the Tigris, On our arrival, we were met at the landing place by Mr, Carter, who gave us a genuine Irish welcorae. The best apartments of his weU-arranged and corafortable house were especiaUy set apart for oux xeception, and duiing oui visit nothing which was at aU calculated to contribute to oux happiness, was over looked. The date-palm groves around Maaglul, and in which we frequently walked, are very extensive. Many of the palm trees were UteraUy festooned by -vines, and presented, in consequence, a singular appearance. As gazelles, wUd pigs, and jackals are numerous in the neighbourhood of MaaghU, we expected to meet in our rambles through the country, with more or less of such animals, but in this respect we were invariably disappointed. Each evening, however, after sunset, jackals carae frora theu lairs to the Tigris in order to quench theu thUst, and owing to the vocfferous barking or whiniag to which they gave vent on such occasions, we had reason to conclude they were raany in nuraber. We were greatly interested in witnessing on Mr, Carter's preraises, the pressing and packing of wool by steam. These packs of wool are forwarded, as merchandize, to the marts of Great Britain and France, We also observed in Mr Carter's courtyard a monumental fountain, intended to perpetuate the memory of the officers and crew of H.M.S. " Tigris," who were , drowned by the foundering of theu vessel, on the 21st of May, 1836. The inscription on the monument reads as foUo-ws : — MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 375 " This Fountain coraraemorates the awful event which visited the Euphrates Expedition 21st May, 1836, near Is leria, about 85 mUes above Ana. " The expedition was descending the river with full pros perity, when it was -visited suddenly by a hurricaae of tre mendous -violence. Both vessels were placed in imminent danger, from which the ' Euphrates ' escaped, but the ' Tigris ' foundered, and with her was lost the chief part of the souls on board. " The names of those who were swallowed up in the sudden vortex are as foUows :— • "Lieut. Eobert Cockbum, Eoyal Arty. (Passenger), „ E, B, Lynch, 21st Native Bengal Infantry, Mr, Yusef Sader, Interpreter, „ John Struthers, Engineer, Acting Sergt, Eichard Clark, Gunner Eobert Tumer, „ James Moore, „ Thoraas Jones, „ Jaraes May, Private Archibald McDonald, Eoyal Sappers and Miners, Benjarain Gibson, "] John Hunter, I George Liddel, }¦ Seamen, Thomas Batty, Thomas Booth, Abba, Warso,Yakub, V Natives, Mkni, Padros, " The names of those who, by God's mercy, were miracu lously saved, are as foUows : — > Eoyal ArtiUery. 376 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. " Col E. E. Chesney, Eoyal Arty, and Comr. of the Expe dition. Lieut. H. B. Lynch, Indian Navy. Mr. Henry Eden, Mate, Eoyal Navy. Asst.-Surgeon C. E. Staunton, Eoyal AxtUleiy. Mr, A. A, Staunton, Assistant-Surgeon to the Expedition. „ W. S, Thompson, Assistant Draftsman. Corporal Benjamin Fisher, Eoyal Sappers and Miners. Qr,-Master EUas Lowrie, ~| WUUara Benson, j S^^^^°- Michael Giearaer, 1 Maltese, Geoxge Vincenzo, J Shaikho, "] Muharamad, I Hassan, > Natives. KhaUl, I AU, J SU Eobert Giant and the Merabeis of CouncU at Bombay, in admUation of the labouis and exertions with which the expe dition had suimounted its raany and gxeat difficulties up to the above moraent, and syrapathising in the unhappy fate of the biave men who died, have xaised this monument to their memoiy, and the British residents in India, with a generous and charitable UberaUty, at the same tirae coUected laigely to affoid pecuniaiy lelief foi the suiviving relations." When xetuining fiora MaaghU to Bussoiah, oui boat came into colUsion with a feny boat pljdng on the Tigris. An Aiab who was standing upright in the feny boat, and holding in his right hand a stiing of fishes, feU into the water He, howevei, had the piesence of mind not to release his hold of the fish, and on rising to the surface of the water, he grasped, by means of his left hand, the gunwale of the feny boat, and clambered on board. Being, as aU Mohararaedans are, a fataUst, he e-vidently regarded his ducking as an event in store for him, and from which it was not possible to escape. On our arrival at Bussorah from MaaghU, we immediately MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 377 embarked in the s,s, " City of London," Captain Cowley, for Baghdad, The banks of the Tigris were, for a very consider able distance, fringed with groves of date-palms. The vast roUing plains, too, through which this river flows, were UteraUy bestudded with large encampments of nomadic Arabs, Near to each of these encarapraents vast flocks of sheep, and herds of cows and water buffaloes were grazing. Many buffaloes, too, were apparently enjoying a bath, being alraost entirely ira- mersed inthe waters ofthe Tigris. Many of the boys belong ing to these encarapraents, aU of whora were in a state of nudity, ran a considerable distance along the banks of the river in the hope of obtaining from the passengers on board the steamer, presents of fruit. As the apples, peaches, and oranges which were thrown to them, generaUy feU short ofthe bank, the youths, nothing daunted, plunged into the rapid current in pursuit of the paltry prize, and proved theraselves great adepts at s-wiraming. At frequent intervals, too, along the Tigris, we observed large flocks of various kinds of water fowl in search of prey, and of birds of this class, peUcans were, perhaps, the most numerous. Fresh water turtles, also, -were, here and there, reposing in large numbers on the banks of the river. On our nearer approach to them, however, they became greatly alarmed, and plunged for safety beneath the surface of the stream. The eggs of these creatures, which are more or less oval or eUiptical in shape, constitute, owing to the quantity of oU which is obtained frora thera, a valuable article of merchandize. The town of Araarah, which is situated at the confluence of the rivers Tigris and Hud, and which, owing to its proxiraity to the Persian frontier, is an important Turkish miUtary sta tion, was the first place at which we called. The banks of the river were, at this point, literaUy crowded with Arabs, who had assembled, apparently, for no other purpose than to witness the anival of the stearaer They were clad in every variety of costurae, and formed in consequence a most pic turesque assembly. On landing, we visited, first of all, the bazaar, which, though of no great extent, is in the form of an 378 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. arcade. Two mosques, one of which belongs to the Shea and the other to the Sonne sect of Mohamraedans, next carae under our notice. Of these houses of prayer neither was very iraposing in regard to appearance. That which belonged to the Sonne sect was, perhaps, the better of the two, inasmuch as it possessed a minaret, the ex terior waUs of which were tastefuUy inlaid with glazed bricks, Tbe barracks, which were evidently very commodious, we were not perraitted to enter. Passing two large coffee houses, in front of which several Arabs were either drinking coffee, or sraoking tobacco, we reached the approach to a long bridge of boats by which the Tigris is spanned at this point. Crossing this bridge which, owing to its dUapidated state, is not only a disgrace to the local authorities, but, also, a reproach to the central government of Turkey, we had a pleasant walk along the banks of the river. On our retum, late in the evening, we visited a native merchant, by whom we were entertained on the tenace of his house. As the moon was shining very brightly, and as the terrace comraanded a fine -view of the Tigris, we greatly enjoyed the repose which, after the fatigues and heat of the day, this singular and novel " drawing-room " afforded us. Ee-embarking at midnight, we at once proceeded on our voyage, and on the following morning passed several encampments of nomadic Arabs, each of which was located on the banks of the xivex. Of these encarapraents, one in paiticulai was sunounded by a vast heid of cattle and an equaUy laige drove of asses. These animals, which piesented a most picturesque group, would we are sure have been regarded by Eosa Bonheur, as a fine subject fox hex Ufe-depicting pencil. At this stage of oui voyage the tUlei of the steamei broke, and we were in consequence detained foi two bonis. We were not, howevei, without amusement duiing the time the tiUex was being lepaiied, as aU the youths fiom the neigh bouiing encampments crowded the banks of the xivei and begged of the passengeis on boaxd to give them piesents of fiuit. No soonei, therefore, were apples and oianges thrown into the rivex, than these youths, one and aU, MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 379 plunged headlong into the stream, and despite the strong current with which they had to contend, struggled man fuUy with one another for the floating fruit. On regain- iag the bank, they, with the -view of inducing the passengers to give them further suppUes of fruit, performed an A.rabian dance, singing at the same time, and clapping their hands. This performauce rerainded us very rauch of an Indian uEltch dance. The tiller ha-ving been at length repaired, we resuraed our voyage, and arrived, in due course of tirae, at Kurnah, which is situated at the confluence of the rivers Tigris and Euphrates. This place proved especiaUy interesting to us, inasmuch as it is regarded as the site of the Garden of Eden. Proceeding onwards, we arrived on the foUowiag day at a tomb which is said to contain the remains of Erza, the author of one of the canonical books of the Old Testament. It is in the form of a paraUelograra, and is surmounted by a dorae formed of green glazed bricks. Th e courtyard in which it stands is enclosed by buUdings of two stories high, which are espe ciaUy set apart for the accoraraodation of aU Jews, who come on a pUgrimage to this place. As we were inspecting the mterior of this spacious sepulchre, a Jew, together with his wffe and chUd, entered. The Jewess, who was sobbing very bitterly, walked round the sarcophagus, and at each step which she took imprinted a kiss upon it. Her husband and chUd, who were not so greatly affected, performed pre cisely simUar acts. During our stay in the sepulchre, several other Jewish pUgriras arrived, each of whom whUe walking around the sarcophagus, frequently kissed it. Before leaving this sepulchre, so sacred in the estimation of the Jews, om- attention was directed to a recess in the waU, and in which was contained, in the form of a roU of parch ment, either a copy of the Pentateuch, or a copy of the book of Ezra. On resunUng our voyage, we passed the Luristan range of mountains. It is a very high range, and throughout the -winter months is covered with snow. On this same day we saw several Arabs (bearing arms and banners), who were in quick retreat from the men of anothex noraadic tiibe, against 380 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. whom they had just been waging an unsuccessful battle. On xeaching the town of AU-Gheiby, we had an inteiview witb the commandant, a taU and handsorae Tuik. The duties of this officei weie not, appaiently, veiy aiduous, the gairison undex his authoiity consisting of a company of infantiy and ten oi fouiteen hoise soldieis. We wexe told that the chief duty of the lattei foice consisted in scouxing, at inteivals, the sunound ing countxy, and in enforcing the Aiab tribes to pay aU taxes due to the Tuikish Govemment. It was heie, too, we saw, foi the first tUne, a guffer or gopher. Such boats — for boats they raay reasonably be caUed — •" are formed," says Colonel Ches ney, " of osiers plaited together Uke baskets over a circular frame of stout materials. In sorae instances the basket is covered with leather, in others only with bitumen. The vessel is guided by one man, who uses a large bladed paddle alternately on each side." We may add that aU vessels of this class which we saw at AU Gherby and elsewhere, re sembled large cUcular clothes-baskets, and were generaUy propeUed by two or three paddles. They have great diffi culty in forcing theU way against the stream. Thus a vessel of this nature, when engaged in bringing passengers to our stearaer, which was riding at anchor in the raiddle of the river, was UteraUy swept away by the current. It is sup posed by sorae writers that it was in a gopher the infant Moses was placed by his parents, in order to protect him frora the cruel decree of Pharoah King of Egjrpt, Near to AU-Gherby we saw four men and a woman swUnraing across the Tigris, each of whom was supported, whUe performing this feat, by an inflated skin, placed under the waist. This is evidently a very ancient way of crossing the Eivers Tigris and Euphrates, Thus Layaid, in his veiy inteiesting and instinctive work on Nineveh and its reraains, in describing a bas-reUef which he found, says as foUows :-^" On each of the' four adjoining slabs were two bas-reliefs separated by a band of inscriptions. The upper, on the first slab, represented a castle buUt by the side of a river, or on an island. One tower is defended by MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 381 an armed man ; two others are occupied by females. Three warriors, probably escaping from the eneray, are swiraraing across the streara, two of them on inflated skins, in the mode practised to this day by the Arabs inhabiting the banks of the rivers of Assyria and Mesopotamia ; except that, in the bas-relief, the swimmers are pictured as retaining the aper ture, through which the air is forced, in their mouths," We had proceeded but a very short distance from AU- Gherby, when the peace and harmony which prevailed on board, were, in some respects, interrupted by one of our feUow- voyagers, who was forraerly a Lieutenant in the Turkish army. This ofificer, who, during the Criraean war, had greatly distinguished hiraself, had been obliged, owing to five severe wounds one of which he had received in the head, to withdraw from active service. Unfortunately for himseff he had become an inveterate drunkard, and on our arrival at AU- Gherby, the commandant of the garrison, recognising him as a former friend and corapanion in arms, gave to him, knowing his sad propensity, a bottle of brandy as a raost acceptable gfft. Of this spirit he drank so freely as to becorae intoxi cated, and the disturbance which he consequently created, was for some time an intolerable nuisance. He was a fine look ing feUow, and wore on his breast a medal which he had re ceived from the Sultan for his distinguished services. No sooner had the disturbance caused by this drunken Turkish pensioner subsided, than an Arab, who had come on board the stearaer at Ali-Gherby to say fareweU to three or four friends, and who had neglected to leave the ship at the time appointed, begged that the steam-boat raight be stopped with a view to his going ashore. This request was granted, but as there was no boat at hand, and as the coraraander of the steamer did not offer to lower' one ofthe ship's boats, the Arab deUberately took off his clothes, and binding them to the top of his head, gUded into the Xiver, and swara towards its banks. On the morning of the following day we arrived at Kut- Al-Araarah, which is also a sraaU town on the banks of the Tigi-is, and the centre of a district which, at the time of oui 382 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. visit, was being decimated by the plague. On landing we entered a banack, consisting of raud walls, and in which were quartered a few Turkish soldiers of the Une, Ascending a tower by which the grand entrance of the banack is sur raounted, we suddenly found ourselves in the presence of two dignified Turkish officials, who were very courteous in their deportraent towards us. They were seated on an otto raan which stood at the head of the roora, while on carpets, which stretched along the base of each of the side waUs of the roora, nine Arabian sheiks of comraanding appearance were squatting. The Turkish officials were engaged in a very earnest conversation with these sheiks, each of whom was in fuU dress. It appeared from what we could afterwards leam, that certain members of the clans which these sheiks repre sented, had recently committed daring robberies, and that the oflficials were desUous, with the aid of the sheiks, to bring the offendeis to justice. It was to us a singulaily imposiug scene. The sheiks looked as wUd as the desert ovei which it theii custom to loara. As we rose to take leave, the Tuikish officials inteiposed, and said that we could not be peimitted to depart untU we had partaken of coffee -with them, Seveial cups of this beveiage weie then bxought into the xoom, and of which, with the usual salutations, the officials, sheiks, and ouxselves paitook. In the stables of a kahn, oi caiavanseiai, adjoining the banack, we saw the hoises of the sheiks. They weie noble looking steeds, being of the Kohlam breed, oi " ancient pedigiee," The bazaai of Kut-Al-Amaiah, which is in the foira of an aicade, is very smaU, and as we were walk ing leisurely through it, we met several armed Arabs, who, we were told, were the retainers of the sheiks to whom we have just refened. When retracing our steps frora the ex trerae end of the bazaar, we saw two Arabian youths fighting. Pushing our way through the crowd by which the youthful corabatants were surrounded, we not only stopped the contest, but also reconcUed the pugilists. Having -visited two smaU and indifferent looking coffee-houses, in each of which several Arabs were drinking coffee and smoking narghUies, we MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 383 returned to our stearaship, and at once proceeded to the ruined city; of Ctesiphon, On our way thither, we called at a place which is named the Asses' Ears, As we were approach ing the pier, several Tiukish soldiers gave us to understand that as we were unclean, having so recently passed through the plague-stricken districts of Kut-Al-Amarah, we could not, on any account, be perraitted to land. To this remon strance, however, we gave no heed, and at once proceeded to debark. Seven or eight women, who were filUng skin bottles with water from the Tigi'is, on seeing us land, becarae so alarmed lest we should impart the plague to aU around, that they precipitately fled from our presence. On our arrival at Ctesiphon, we immediately repaired to the great ruin caUed Tek-Kesra, or the Arch of Chosroes, the lofty surarait of which can be seen at a distance of several mUes, Our way thither led us over an extensive plain, from which a crop of barley had recently been reaped, and araidst the stubble several partridges were in search of gleanings. This vast and iraposing arch, which is one hundred and twenty feet high, and has a span in proportion to its altitude, is said to have been erected raore than a thousand years before Christ, Though it has faUen into decay its outer face is stUl very perfect. The walls on each of its sides are two hundred and fifty feet in length, and are apportioned into four or five stories of pUasters and smaU arches. The bricks of which it is buUt are very hard, and of a yeUowish colour. More over, each brick is nearly a foot square, and three inches thick. This haughty pUe of architectural grandeur is, appa rently, the only remaining vestige of once mighty Ctesiphon, " Sic transit gloria raundi," Under the cool shade of the arch, at the tirae of our visit, several noraadic Arabs, with their horses and asses, were sheltering themselves frora the power ful heat of a raeridian sun. It was their intention to proceed to Baghdad, for the purpose of seUing ghee, several packages of which commodity they had then Ui their possession. Beyond the arch many sheep were grazing, Havuig thoroughly exarained and adraired this raagnificent 384 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. monument of a past age, we stroUed to a neighbouring domed sepulchre, in which rest the remains .of a Mohararaedan, who was Mahomet's barber, and who bore the name of Suliman- Pak-el-Pharessy. The sarcophagus contained in this mauso leum is constructed of stones, elaborately carved, and encircled by a paUsade of wood. The whole buUding stands in the centre of an extensive plot of ground, and owing to the high walls by which it is enclosed, resembles a fortification. Withia this enclosure two or three palm trees raise their lofty heads, and though they afford no shade from the sun, yet it is 'a reUef to the eye to have, amidst the general barrenness which prevails, a few green leaves upon which to gaze. As we were entering the sepulchre, we observed several nomadic Arabs who were sheltering theraselves under its cloisters, frora the great heat of the day, while theU horses and asses were wandering about the courtyard, in search, we supposed, of provender and water. On exaraining the sarcophagus we noticed that to the palisade of wood by which it is surrounded, several pieces of cord were attached, and upon raaking inquiries as to the mean ing of so singular a custom, we were told that the cords ia question had, in sorae instances, been placed in the position in which we saw thera by wives who were anxious to become mothers, and, in others, by persons who were desirous to avert impending calaraities. As we were in the act of withdrawing frora the sepulchre, a very aged Mohararaedan entered, and kissed the sarcophagus with very great devotion. But this is not the only large Mohararaedan torab in close proximity to the great arch at Ctesiphon. There is another, indeed, in which rest the remains of a distinguished foUower of Mahoraet, who was naraed Hudey-that-el-Yaniany-Wa- AbduUa-el-Ansary. But, however, as it is very simUar, in many respects, to the one which we have just described, there is no need for us to enter into any details in regard to it. In Smith's Dictionary of Greek and Eoman Geography we find the foUowing remarks respecting Ctesiphon : — " A large city, the origin of which is uncertain, is first mentioned by Polybius (V. 45) in his narrative ofthe war between Antiochus MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 385 the Great and Molo, Araraianus MarceUinus (13 G) attri butes its foundation to a Parthian ruler naraed Vardanes or Varanes, but history has not recorded who he was or at what period he lived. It is certain, however, that it was not a place of great consequence till the Parthian Erapire was firmly established. It rose on the decay of Seleucia as that city had risen on the faU of Babylon ; and Ammianus may be right in attributing to the Parthian Pacorsis, the son of Orodes, the raagnificence for which it becarae celebrated, (Strabo, XI. 32.) Ctesiphon, as the residence of the Par thian Kings, who lived there at that season owing to the mUdness of the clira.ate, whUe they passed the summer at Hyrcania and Ecbatana, the ancient and more iUustrious royal seat, long remained a place of considerable importance, especiaUy at the time of the restoration of the Persian Empire under the early Sassanian Kings. Tacitus caUs it 'sedes imperii' The population raust have been large, as from it alone Severus carried off one hundred thousand prisoners. (Herodian iU.) It was a strong place still at Julian's invasion and in the time of GalUenus, for though Odenathus was able to ravage the country as far as Erusia, the waUs of Ctesiphon were sufficiently strong to protect those who fled within. Amm. Marc. XXIV. 6. In more modern times the city of Ctesiphon has been identified with a place called by the Arabs, Al MadaUi (the two cities). Strabo says that Ctesi phon was only a suburb of Seleucia, built by Parthian Kings to reUeve Seleucia frora their court and an array of Scythians, where they passed their winter, their summer being passed in Hyrcania or Ecbatana. Hoefer goes on to say, quoting frora Ives, who conjectures that Tek-Kesra was built by Alexander the Great, — " It appears to rae raore rational to adrait that this buUding, of which the architecture is evidently Eoman, was built by some Eoraan Emperor, perhaps by Trajan. The name Kesra, which signifies rather Csesar than Chosroes, seems to indicate this." Ee-embarking we went from Ctesiphon to Seleucia for the purpose of inspecting the remains of that once proud and 2 0 386 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. flourishing city, where we arrived at noon. Mounting horses, which had been sent frora Baghdad on the preceding day, to await our arrival, we entered upon our explorations, and during a ride of sorae hours, saw several vestiges of this ancient city. They consisted chiefly of the ruins of walls, which, despite their being covered with sand, we were able to trace to a very considerable distance. This ruined city, standing on the west bank of the Tigris, was buUt, according to Pliny, by Seleucus Nicator in the form of an eagle with outstretched 'wings. It quickly surpassed in wealth and power the city of Babylon, and its inhabitants at one period of its history, nurabered six hundred thousand souls. It was destined, however, Uke other cities of a past age, to experi ence great reverses of fortune. Thus, at the tirae of Trajan's expedition to the east, it was burnt by the Eomans, and was, at a later period, again set on flre by the same' people, in obe dience to the coramands of Cassius, the general of Lucius Verus. Subsequently, it feU, having suffered great trials, under the conquering sword of Severus. After its capture by the last-named Eoraan, it began to decUne very rapidly in many respects, and was, at length, deserted by aU its iahabitants. Thus Julian, at the time of his expedition to the east, is said to have found the whole country around Seleucia an extensive marsh, which was so weU stocked with garae of various kinds as to afford his soldiers aU the pleasures of the chase. On our retum from exploring the ruins of this old and once prosperous city we entered, for the purpose of obtaining a little rest for ourselves and horses, an estabUshment in which several expert workraen were engaged in making salt petre for the service of the Turkish Government. We were kindly received by an old Turkish soldier who was in charge of the institution. WhUe we were resting in this place a man entered holding in one of his hands three large fishes and in the other a trident. It was with this weapon that he had speared in the Tigris the fishes which he carried. Being very hungry and having nothing to eat, we sug gested to this raan that he should seU us one of the fish — a MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 387 suggestion to which he readUy agreed. On becoming possessed of the fish, however, we were told that, owing to the afternoon being far advanced, it was imperatively necessary for us to remount our horses without any further delay, and to hasten towards Babylon. These instructions were no sooner given than obeyed, and our dragoman taking charge of the fish, pro mised to cook it for us on our anival at the first Arab encarapraent. We now began to raove on with our faces towards Babylon. Our astonishment, however, was indescribably great when the old Turkish soldier, whom we have already mentioned, caUed out that we could not possibly proceed by the direct road to Babylon, as it was, in many parts, inundated by the overflowings of the Euphrates, and that we raust, conse quently, dUect our course through the deserts. This was, indeed, most painful inteUigence to us weary traveUers, the dhect way to Babylon being very short, and the indirect way very long. Moreover, our dragoman not knowing the way by the deserts, it became necessary for us to obtain the assistance of another guide. But where were we to find such a person 1 was the question which we now asked. The old soldier assured us, in reply, that at a neighbouring en campment of noraadic Arabs, we should have no difficulty in meeting -with an efficient escort. To this place, therefore, we dUected our steps, and on our arrival engaged, without loss of time, the services of a raan, who gave the most un mistakable evidence of his being a true descendant of Ishmael. While this wild-looking individual was preparing his Arab steed, and making other arrangements for the journey, we were seated under one of the canvas tents of the encarapraent. The tents to which we refer, are caUed nhymas, from tbe shelter they afford, and beet al shaar, or houses of hau, from the webs of goats' hair of which they are made. O'wing to the thinness of this covering, they afforded but Uttle protection to us from the scorching rays of the sun, and we were, therefore, unable to obtain that rest by day so necessary to those who have to travel by night. 2 c 2 388 MESOPOTAMLi., BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. Whilst sitting in the tent, we saw two or three woraen who were engaged in broiling slices of fish over a fire of wood, and we begged of thera to be so kind as to receive, in ex change for the portions of fish which they were cooking, the large fish which, only an hour before, we had bought at the saltpetre raanufactory. They readily assented, and thus an opportunity was afforded us of dining before we resumed oux joumey. In addition to the fried fish, these women suppUed us with bailey-cakes and bowls of buttei-mUk, AU being now leady, we leniounted oui hoises and went on OUI way, led by oui guide, who, owing to a sabie which was gUded to his side, and a gun slung ovei his shouldeis, looked a veritable fieebootei. On oui way we passed ovei a plain which, at one tirae, was a poition of tJie now rained city of Seleucia, and which was UteiaUy swaim- ing with paitiidges. Indeed, so numeious weie these buds, that they weie rising from theu coverts at almost eveiy step which oux hoises took, Towaxds nine o'clock, p,m,, we diew neai to an Arabian encarapraent, and so loudly and angiUy did the sheep dogs baxk that aU the inhabitants carae out to asceitain the cause. They were evidently rauch suipiised at seeing us, and natmally inquiied in which diiection it was oui intention to proceed. On being told that we were on oui way to Babylon, they said we had not foUowed the diiect road thiough the desert, and that, therefore, it would be better for us to pass the night in one of their tents, and to proceed on the foUow ing day under the guidance of one of theU clan by the right road to the great city. We now, of course, lost all faith iu the guide who had brought us thus far But as it was out of the question for us to accept this kind invitation, the heat of the sun rendering it utterly impossible for us to travel by day, we very courteously declined it, and at the same time begged that instructions as to the right road might be given to our very inefficient guide. The moon, too, was shUung so brightly at the time, that we were anxious to avail ourselves of the Ught which she afforded. The bleatUig of the flocks MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 389 of sheep, also, which for safety had been brought within the precincts of the encampment, at the close of the day, were so loud that we felt we should get little or no rest. The necessary instructions, therefore, having been given to our guide, we proceeded on our way. We had not gone far from the encampment when we entered a jungle which, owing to the thickness of its shrubs, was almost impene trable. At frequent intervals, too, we heard jackals calling one to the other. Nor should we have been at aU surprised had a lion appeared on the scene, as such animals are occa sionally seen not only in Babylonia, but also in Mesopotamia, In 1874, when the " City of London " was on her voyage from Bussorah to Baghdad, Captain Cowley and one of his officers shot, from the deck of the steamer, one lion and three lionesses, which were sporting themselves on the banks of the Tigris, The carcases of these beasts were taken on board the steamer, and on two of the lionesses being skinned, it was discovered that one contained four young ones and the other two. Thus ten lions in aU were destroyed on this occasion. On emerging from the jungle we crossed a partene, which was more or less luxuriant, and arrived at an Arab encamp ment, where we gladly partook of the good cheer — milk and slap-jack — which the inmates so generously offered us. Our selves and horses 'were strengthened by this rest, and we resumed our journey, which, owing to the brightness of the moon, we found no difficulty in pursuing. At two o'clock A.M., not knowing where we were, it was proposed that we should sleep for a few hours in the desert. We, therefore, spread our blankets on the sand, but so numerous were raosquitoes and sand-flies that sleep was out of the question. Consequently, at three A.M., we arose, re- remounted our horses, and coutinued on our way through the desert. At this moment we were suffering greatly fiora thiist, but no lefieshing stieam, so fai as we knew, was at hand. We had not, howevei, gone more than three mUes from this point, when we heard the barking of dogs, and con cluded, of course, that we were in the neighbourhood of an 390 MESOPOTAMU, BABYLONU, AND ASSYRIA, encarapraent. We despatched, therefore, our mounted guide in search of it, who returned in a short time, but with a supply of water so duty and stinking that it was with dififi culty we drank even a smaU quantity of it. As the day began to dawn, we saw fifteen gazeUes scamperUig over the desert. These graceful aniraals, alarraed probably at the sound of our horses' hoofs, were hastening to theU laU at fuU speed. When the sun had risen our guide, on riding to the top of a sandhUl, descried the -wide-spreading waters of the Eiver Euphrates, This fact fUled us with deUght, and, being alraost overcorae with thust, we gaUopped towards the river, rendered vast by the accuraulation of waters, which it had so recently received frora the raountains, with the speed of a Jehu. On reaching the river, we and our horses drank ad libitum of its refreshing strearas. So wearied and parched was one of our horses by its joumey thus far through the desert, that it suddenly plunged into the river, and fain would have roUed head-over-heels in the flowing waters. Indeed, it was -svith difficulty that it was restrained from taking this step by its strong-armed rider. Proceeding stUl further on our journey, we observed some rising ground, which was covered with stunted shrubs of a Ught green colour, towards which, as a suitable place to pasture, not less, perhaps, than five thousand camels were dUecting theu course with raeasured steps. On seeing these caraels we greatly rejoiced, feeUng assured that an encarapraent, in which we could obtain a little rest for our wearied bodies, raust be very near. This conjecture was not unfounded, for we saw almost imraediately afterwards a large encampment, which was at a distance of two mUes from us. Quickening our pace we very soon gained the door of the sheik's tent, who, upon being informed of our anival, carae to the entrance of the tent, and in a truly hospi table raanner, begged us to alight frora our horses, and to honour his desert horae with our presence. At the raoment of our arrival, the sheik was entertaining a nuraber of his retainers, each of whom was well-dressed, and armed with a sciraitar and a dagger. These raen, who looked very warUke, MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 391 were drinlring very strong draughts of coffee, from small cups. On entering the tent, we were heartily welcomed by all its inmates with whom we met ; and no sooner had the retainers left, than we were invited to paxtake of a bieakfast, which, consisted of rice boiled with ghee, bailey cakes, buttei-milk, aud coffee. Though hungiy and faint, we paitook veiy spaiingly of this xepast. The coffee, howevei, which was veiy strong, and served in sraall cups, greatly refreshed us. Of this beverage, which, owing to its strength, is so thick and black as to resemble ink, the Arabs of the desert drink large quantities. So invigorating are its effects as to enable these nomades, when on a march through the desert, to go with out substantial food, if need be, for a period of twenty-four hours. The heat of the sun had now becorae so great as to cause us to feel very unweU, and on mentioning this circurastance to the sheik he becarae stUl raore attentive to us, and sought by every means in his power to make our sojoum in his tent as corafortable as it was possible. As the awning, which covered the tent, was very thin, extra coverings were, at our request, spread over it. Despite these precautions, however, so great was the heat of the sun on attaining raeridian, that we were afraid of an attack of heat apoplexy ; and in order to avert such a calamity, spent several hours in applying cold- water bandages to our head. The sheik, who was evidently greatly interested in our weUare, several times expressed a desUe to accompany us to Babylon. We steadfastly refused, however, to yield to any such proposition, as we considered it would entaU upon him a great deal of inconvenience and trouble. But towards the close of the afternoon, so earnestly did he beg to be permitted to accompany us, that we concluded, by instinct as it were, that there were dangers at hand from which he was desirous to shield us, and we assented, therefore, to his oft-repeaied proposition. We were now summoned to a dinner, which consisted of boUed rice, hashed venison, barley cakes, and butter-mUk. As the venison and rice smelled strongly of ghee, we were unable to partake 392 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. of thera, and had, consequently, to strengthen ourselves for a night's joumey thiough the desert, by copious diaughts of buttei-raUk. As the sun -was setting, we stiolled as fai as a sinall lavine, in order to ascertain the fate of the carcase of a cow, which, but a few hours before, we had seen three or four men dragging in that direction. We discovered that it was being voraciously tom into pieces by several dogs belonging to the encarapraent. Near to the mangled remains of the cow, there lay the well-picked skeleton of a camel. We thus learned that the dogs of Arab encarapraents are not unusuaUy fed upon the carcases of aniraals which die in camp, whether they be camels, cows, sheep, goats, horses, or asses. Our horses being now ready, we were called upon to re mount, a comraand -which we cheerfully obeyed, and in three minutes from the time it had been given, we were once more directing our course to-w^ards Babylon. The sheik, our kind host, riding on his own noble Arabian mare, led the way. He wore his best robes on the occasion, and having by his side a long sciraitar, in his girdle a dagger, and over his shouldex a veiy long lance, he looked raost wailike. As we were leaving the encarapraent we raet the heid of camels, to which we have alieady lefened, letuming from theii pasture. This drove of camels, as seen by twilight, was one of the most extraordinary sights which we have ever seen, and the singular impression which it made on our minds, we shaU not readily forget. In the course of half an houx fiom the time of OUI leaving tlie encampment, we had once more entered upon Avhat seemed to be an iuterminable de.sert. Our thirst again becarae very great, and our longings for water were raore intense than we can well describe. The whole day we had been without, water, as the filthy stuff which they presented to us at tbe encampment was undrinkable. Moreover, the railk by which we were regaled, was scarcely a substitute for a pure and refreshing draught of water At midnight, however, we observed the waters of the Euphrates reposing under the rays of a brightly shining moon. A shout of exultation arose, and gaUopping towards the river we drew MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 393 copious draughts from the mighty streara. Having thus re freshed ourselves we resuraed our raarch, and we had not ridden a great distance from this point when the sheik became greatly alarmed for our safety. For four Bedouins, who had alighted from their horses, and who had stretched themselves at full length on the ground, directed the muzzles of their muskets to-wards us, and called upon us, in a most peremptory manner, to halt and surrender The sheik, who had in the raeantirae placed hiraself between the robbers and ourselves, now addressed them in a very authoritative man ner, and upon his being recognized by them, they tendered to him a raost abject apology for the rude raanner in which they had accosted us, and courteously begged of us to proceed on our way. Thus, with the sheik still as our leader, we raoved on wards. These raen, who were Bedouins, or highwayraen of the desert, would, doubtless, have robbed us of our all had not the sheik, with whom they were acquainted, been one of our party. The Syrian Christian, our dragoman, who spoke Arabic fluently, now rode by our side and explained to us the nature of the conversation, which had just taken place between the sheik and the robbers. He also felt assured, in consequence of the event which had just occurred, that it was with the view of protecting us from these men, the sheik had resolved to accorapany us to Babylon. A sirailar opinion we also en tertained. For it is a well-known fact that if an Arab re ceive travellers into his tent, and offer them hospitaUty, he wiU protect them to the utmost of his power from aU dan gers. At two A.M., the sheik, finding that we could not possibly reach the encampment towards which we were directing our steps, until the following day, proposed that we should aUght from our horses and sleep in the desert. As we were greatly fatigued both in mind and body, we gladly acceded to this proposition, and at once proceeded to make the necessary arrangements. This work, which consisted in tethering our horses, and spreading rugs on which to rest, was speedily accomplished, and no sooner had we laid down than we feU 394 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. fast asleep. Our rest, however, was not of long continuance, as at four A.M. we were awoke by the sheik, and told to hasten on our journey. This we did, and after a ride of four or five hours reached the encarapraent in which it was the sheik's intention we should spend the day. The welcome which we received, on alighting from our horses, at the hands of the elders of the encampment, was most hearty, and in order to revive our drooping spirits cups of strong coffee were imraediately supplied to us. In due tirae, too, a breakfast of boiled rice, raUk, and barley cakes was spread before us. At four P.M. we were again in the saddle, and directing our course along a road, which was so rough and rugged as to beggar description. As our pace was necessarUy very slow, we soon discovered that it would be irapossible for us to reach Babylon that night, and as the sun was now sinking beneath the horizon we deeraed it advisable to hasten to an encampment, which we saw in the distance, to pass the night. The sheik, under whose escort we were traveUing, was evidently a true descendant of Ishmael, in feeUng that, usually, each raan's hand was against his feUow, and he there fore approached this encarapraent with great trepidation. Indeed he inquired if we had arras with us, as it raight be necessary, he added, on arriving at the encarapraent towards which we were directing our steps, to use such weapons in self-defence. When we replied in the negative, he evidently xegaided us, fox a few moraents, eithei as gieat sirapletons, 01 as men who had foimed a much highei opinion of human natuie in geneial, than he had succeeded in doing. He then caUed upon the whole paity to foim a phalanx, and in that mannei to appioach the encarapraent. This oidei was obeyed, and on leaching the tents the sheik begged foi oui party a night's shelter, a request which was granted, but in a most ungracious manner The elders of the encampment, too, re ceived us with feelings of great distrust, and asked our dragoman if we were eaters of pork. We know not what answer was given to this question by our Syrian dragoman, but, as we were not forthwith ejected from the encampment. MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 395 we conclude that he replied in the negative. Having par taken of mUk and barley cake we retired to rest, but as no tent had been aUotted to us by our ungracious host, we were constrained to sleep in the open air. No sooner had we stretched ourselves upon the ground than all the elders of the encarapraent asserabled in a tent, which was in close proxi mity to us, and, seating themselves on ottomans, talked, drank coffee, and smoked tobacco untU midnight. The moon was shining very brightly at the tirae, and we had, as we lay on our blanket, a fuU view of this interesting coffee-party. There can be Uttle doubt that our unexpected arrival at theu horae in the desert, forraed the subject raatter of their conversation. At the early hour of three o'clock on the fol lowing morning we arose, and remounting our horses raoved towards Babylon, which, we were told, was at a distance of twelve English miles. The only object of interest which we passed by the way, was a doraed torab standing in the centre of a grove of date trees. This sepulchre contained, we were inforraed, the reraains of a distinguished Mohararaedan, who had planted the date trees in the midst of which his tomb stands, and to whom the garden at one time belonged. After a ride of two or three hours, and as the sun was rising, we reached the mouldering walls of the ancient city of Babylon. By the aid of Colonel Chesney's work, entitled " A Narrative of the Euphrates Expedition," we were enabled to clearly trace the four quarters of this once great but now desolate city. They are named respectively Ararara, the Kasr, the Mujellebe, and Heimar. The last-mentioned quarter consists now of a coUection of ruins, such as vast mounds of mould ering waUs. Araram is known by a large quadrangular mount, while in the Kasr stood the teraple of Baal, or as others contend, the palace of Babylon's Kings. Here dUapi dated houses and portions of waUs are, at this distant period, observable, " and will," says Colonel Chesney, " continue to endure for ages to come, being constructed of the finest yellow bricks united by a pecuUarly durable kind of cement." On the ground a Uon, in sculpture of granite, is also to be seen. 396 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. At the time of our visit, however, it was becoming more or less covered with sand which drifts from the closely adjoining raounds. The Euphrates flows past the Kasr, and as its banks are here fringed with long rows of date palras, it pre sents a very imposing appearance. As we gazed upon the scene before us we thought of the captivity of the Jews, and of the crael treatment which befeU King Zedekiah, who was bound with fetters of brass, and carried (his sons ha-ving first been slain before him, and his eyes ha-ving then been put out), a captive to Babylon. We were, also, while gazing on the Euphrates, forcibly reminded of the 137th Psalm, which represents the captive Israelites as having sung as foUows : — " By the waters of Babylon we sat down and wept when we remembered thee, 0 Sion. As for our harps we hanged thera up upon the trees that are therein. For they that led us away captive required of us then a song and melody in oux heaviness ; sing us one of the songs of Sion," &c., &c. Before taking leave of Kasr we ought to observe that there are persons who assert tbat it was the site of the hanging gardens of Semiramis ; and they further affirm that a cedar tree, which is now growing there, is a last remnant of the once famous gardens in question. The Euphrates, which flowed through the city, was spanned at this point, by an orna mental bridge. i From the Kasr we went to the Mujelleb^, which, accord ing to Colonel Chesney, w weU fumished with chairs, we sat down and for some, time discussed the. merits of several objects of Uiterest which we had had the pleasure of seeing in our recent travels. From' this garden we repaUed to our quarters, and thence to Govern ment House, where we were to dine again with the Pasha,- On arri-ving we were most courteously received by our dis-^ tinguished host, who, after we had partaken of shexbet and coffee in the xeception xoom, invited us to accompany him to the tenace. No soonei had we seated ouxselves than the Pasha, who was looking towaxds the xivex, suddenly gave' vent to lepeated exclamations of joy and admUation, It ap peared that, at this vexy moment, a little boy who was bathing' in the Euphrates, having accidentaUy got beyond his depth, began to sink, and a Tuikish woman who was passing at the time, hearing his cries foi help, iraraediately threw aside the- "sisn"oi shawl by which hei head and face weie coveied, and xushed into the xivex, and bxought the boy, who was in the act of peiishing, to land in safety, . Foi a few raoraents nothing could exceed the deUght of this brave old man, and' tuming lound to the othei guests, aU of whom had now anived,. he spoke in piaiseof the woman for the heroism whieh she had just displayed. After the other guests and ourselves had- been f^tedbni the terrace in a manner precisely simUar to that which we have elsewhere described, we were all requested .by- our host • to accompany, him to the dining-room, . Amongst the guests, in-vited to meet us this evening -was an aged Turkish gentle-' man, a cousin of the Pasha, who, not only in regard to his.> personal appearance, but in respect also to his manners, was , very singular. He had e-vidently never dined '¦ with- Euro peans, and was, therefore, quite at a loss to know the nature • of the etiquette which was to be observed. , This remark wiU be best Ulustrated bythe foUo-wing facts : — In partaking of' MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 411 soup, a spoon being used, he found, of course, no difificulty. But when fish was. placed before him, and he had to have re- cpurse to a knife and fork, he most signaUy failed in the use of those articles. His fork faUing from his hand to the ground, he received a sharp rebuke from the Pasha, Another fork was given to hira, which quicldy shared the fate of its predecessor, -whereupon he xeceived a second shaxp xebuke fxom the Pasha, He no-w- had lecouise to his right hand, the method by which a Tuik, when sitting at meat, xaises - food to his raouth. No soonex was this step taken, howevei, than he became, a thUd tirae, an object of the Pasha's dis pleasure, the lattei obseiving, " How dare you, sii, eat food in such a mannei, when sitting at raeat with an English gen tleman?" On lecei-ving this lebuke the old gentleraan, again had.iecouise to his knife and foik, but, alas ! with, no gieatei success than on the foiraei occasions, foi his foik once raoie feU from, his hands to the giound, and, he was, consequently, a fouxth tirae scolded by the Pasha, Nox was this the last rebuke which, owing to his inabiUty to conform to European ceremonies when dining, he was to receive in our presence. For in, a moinent of apparent forgetfulness he again helped hunseff tp food by means of his right hand, and for this re peated breach of etiquette, an anathema was pronounced upon him by our gxeatly-angered host. In a fit either of shame or passion, this frequently-censured guest now quickly rose from the table, and rushing impetuously frora the dining- room, was no more seen by us until ten o'clock at night, when he returned and partook of a cup of coffee. WhUst we were sipping our coffee an alarm of fire was raised, and, almost immediately afterwards, we heard the footsteps of soldiers, who were hastening to the scene of the conflagration. To the sarae place, with the view of rendering aid, ,aU the avaUable soldiers and servants in attendance at Governraent House were despatched by the Pasha. The fire was speedUy subdued, though not until the dweUing-house in which it originated, had been consuraed. A messenger, who now arrived from the stUl smouldering ruins, inforraed the Pasha that the 412 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. fUe was caused by the accidental ignition of a quantity of firewood, which, for the sake of convenience, had been stored in the surdab of the dwelUng-house. The night being very dark, a lantern-bearer was deputed to escort us to our tem porary home. The services of this attendant were very ne cessary, as the streets were not Ughted by means either of gas, oU, or taUow. In front of aU the Government buildings oU-lamps were buming through the night, but the streets were left to darkness. We were surprised to learn that rob beries are of very rare occuxience, in this city. As we were in the act of taking leave, the Pasha, hearing that it was our intention to proceed to Bagdad in the evening of the foUowing day, gave orders that two Ught dragoons were to be " told off" to escort us to the city in question. On the monow, at an early hour, when we were ananging the necessary preUminaries for our departure frora HUlah, we received a visit from Dr J. Deutsch, an Austrian physician in the service of the Turkish Government. During an interesting conversation with hira, which extended over an hoar, he informed us, in addition to raany other iteras of in teUigence, that HUlah was a most salubrious military station, there being at that time not more than thirty soldiers in hospital, and that of these invaUds not one was suffering from a serious raalady. Ophthalraia, said he, is the disease which most frequently prevaUs here. He invited us to lunch with him, an in-vitation which we gladly accepted. At the hour appointed, we repaUed to his residence, and whUe partaking of the exceUent meal which he had prepared for us, freely discussed many subjects with him. He was evidently weU- versed in European poUtics and in the advanced philosophical and theological questions of the day, and took great delight in their discussion. He was tired of the Turkish service, and said that so soon as the term of his engageraent had ex pired, he would return to his native land. The hour for our departure from HUlah, that is, half-past five o'clock P.M., having now arrived, we retumed to our quarters, where we found all things in readiness. Mounting our steeds, we set MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 413 out towaxds Baghdad, pieceded by two well-hoised diagoons. Oui fiist stage, to the Khan Scandaria, led us once moie thiough Babylon, and extended ovei a distance of sixteen mUes, which we finished at half-past ten o'clock p.m. Aftex partaking of supper, we retUed to rest on the terrace, which is, in sumraer, the most corafortable place the khan affords. And here we ought, perhaps, to digxess with the -view of descxibing the pecuUax natuie of the khans which aie sta tioned at inteivals along the load, which conducts the traveUer through the desert frora HUlah to Baghdad. They are aU in the form either of paraUelogxams or squares, and greatiy reserable either castles or fortresses, and are approached by large folding doors. In the centre of the quadrangle of each khan, there is erected a large square da'is, six or seven feet high. On each side waU of this dais several ring-bolts of Uon are arranged, to which, in the suraraer months of the year, when it is so hot as to render it impossible for man or beast to sleep by night under cover, the horses, mules, and asses of the traveUers, lodging in the khan, are raade fast. On the top of the dais, the traveUer having spread his hed, seeks repose. The neighing of the horses, however, and the braying of the asses, not to speak of the loud barking of the many pariah dogs by which the khans are generaUy in fested, render sleep very uncertain. On each of the four sides of the quadrangle of the khan, there is a broad passage, which, owing to the thick walls by which it is enclosed, and the arched ceUing by which it is covered, resembles the cloister of a monastery, or the crypt of an ancient church. The roofs of these cloisters are laid out Ui the form of ter races, and being enclosed by casteUated waUs, would form exceUent ramparts, in case of an attack on the part of a nomadic tribe of Arabs, On the side of the inner waU of each of these cloisters there are, at frequent intervals, and at an elevation of four or five feet from the ground, deep and arched recesses of stone which, duiing the cold months of wmtex, answei the puipose of beds foi the weaiy tiaveUeis, whUe the cloisteis, the floois being coveied with stiaw, foim 414 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. exceUent stables fox the hoxses and asses. But even in the sumraei raonths of the yeax, lecouise is had to these cloisteis both on the paxt of raen and quadxupeds, duiing the gxeat heat of the day. The question, which now arises is the foUo-wing : — "Why have these khans been constructed so as to reserable fortifications, in alraost aU respects ? They were erected under the auspices of the Turkish Govemraent, and are " intended, in fact, to be used as banacks for troops, in case of an uprising on the part of the various Arab tribes occupying the desert. Thus they afford most exceUeUt accom7 modation, both for cavalry and infantry regiments. But let us once raoxe take up the theme of oui tiavels, and observe that at haK-past two o'clock A,M,, we were again on out hoises, and pioceeding at a quiet pace by the light of the moon, towaids Bii-Zanus, which is situated sixteen mUes from Khan Scandaria. The distance, howevei, which we tiaveised on oux journey fxom the lattex to the foimei place, gieatly exceeded sixteen mUes. This was owing to the dUect xoute being inundated, at inteivals, by the oveXflowing Wateis of the Euphxates, and thus we Wexe t-wice obUged to dUect oux couise thiough tiackless portions of the desert, and ex perienced on each of these occasions, the gieatest difficulty ia lejoining the diiect road. In oui peiegiinations thibugh one of these out-of-the-way coinexs of the desext, we distuibed a laige numbei of jackals, just as the sun was lisUig, These cunning animals howled at us as if we were intiudeis, and then disappeared araongst camel-thoms, which, at this spot, wexe gxo-wing in gieat abundance. The presence bf these wUd animals made us conclude that an Arab encampment, -with its inseparable concomitants of fiocks and herds, was bot far distant, and in this conjecture we Were right, foi, on as cending a sand raound by which the desert was heie inter sected, we saw the tents of the Arabs. Ani-ving at this en campment, we were refreshed by draughts of butter-inilk, which the sheik handed to us with a right good wUl. At length we reached BU-Zanus, and, being much fatigued with our night's ride, rejoiced not a Uttle as we entered the khan. MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 415 Our stay here, however, was of very short duration, as, throughout the next stage, there were several deep strearas (caused by the oveiflowings of the Euphiates), foi us to foid, and in oidei to do so without any risk to ouiselves, it was absolutely necessaiy, despite the great heat of the sun, to tiavel by day. Having coveied oui head and shouldeis with shawls as a piotection against the sun, we le-enteied upon our journey, and at noon arrived at a large khan, the gates of which we found closed, and no one residing -within. The closely adjacent -viUage, too, was deserted, for as we wandered .through its streets in search of a cup of cold water to quench our thust, we could not discern a trace of life of any kind ; ,aU the inhabitants, o-wing, it appears, to that dreadful scourge, the plague, ha-ving fled elsewhere for refuge. At a short .distance frora the khan, we discovered a large tank, but as it was perfectly dry, it faUed to afford us the wherewithal to pool our parched Ups, This tank was formed under the ground, and resembled a large cellar ; it was approached by a a descent of several steps — a staircase, in short, simUar to those by which underground cellars in England are entered. After a short rest at this place, which, by sorae of our party, was terraed the " city of the plague," and by others the " city of the dead," we resuraed our march. When we had .arrived at a distance of six or seven miles from this scene of desolation, we descried the high walls of another khan, at -V/hich we xesolved to pass the night, but oux disappointment was gxeat when, on dxawing neaxex, we discovered that it was actuaUy standing in the veiy midst of the floods, and that access to it, in consequence, was out of the question. In the neighbouihood of this insulated khan theie was a vUlage, which, on closei inspection, we discovered had been moie ox less destxoyed by the pievaiUng floods, AU the viUageis had, of couise, fled, except thxee ox foux men, who, now that the wateis had, in some raeasure, abated, were en deavouring to save a few articles of fuinituie, chiefly benches, ¦\rith which, we supposed, the coffee-house of the vUlage had .been furnished. Moving onwards, a broad streara interposed. 416 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, and for a tirae threatened to anest aU further progress on our part No sooner, however, had this difficulty been safely overcorae, than a second stream, which it was also necessary for us to ford, presented itself to view, and as it was flo-wing at a very rapid rate, and was apparently very deep, we were quite at a loss to know at which point to ford it with safety. While we were doubting, a Turkish peasant, who had seen us from an erainence, kindly carae to our rescue, and piloted us over a stream which, without his directing care, might have proved dangerous to ourselves and horses; for, despite his instructions, one of our party was so unfortunate as to plunge, when haff-way over the stream, into a tolerably deep pool. Let it suffice to say, that the greater part of the afternoon was spent by us in fording tributary streams of the Euphrates. The sun had now set, and it was necessary for us to ride a few mUes further in order to find, if possible, a place in which to pass the night. At ten o'clock p,m, a khan was reached, and right glad were we to avaU ourselves of the simple hospitaUty which it had at comraand. BoUed mUk and barley-cake formed our supper, and the roof of a stone tenace was our bed for the night. Our rest, however, was very short ; for at half-past two o'clock a.m, we were called up by the dragoman, and, in the course of a few rainutes frond that time, were again on our weary march towards Baghdad. And here, too, the wide-spreading waters of the Euphrates once more compelled us to diverge from the dUect path. We rode, thergfore — fortunately at the time of this ride the moon was shining very brightly — over a veiy rough and swampy desert, stretching from the banks of the Euphrates to those of the Tigris. On reaching the banks of the last-mentioned river, the sun was rising, and revealed to us, at no great dis tance, a large Arab encampment, to which we quickly rode, hoping to obtain frora the hospitable Arabs a breakfast of butter-mUk and cake. The Arabs, the inhabitants of the en carapraent, were just awakening from their slumbers, and on seeing us, very .gladly supplied us with such cheer as it was in theU power to bestow. We now pursued our way towards MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 417 Graia, a vUlage which stands on the Baghdad banks of the Tigris, As the heat was most oppressive, our ride to-day proved very irksome, both to ourselves and horses. Indeed. so fatigued did sorae merabers of our party become, that it was deeraed advisable to take shelter in an Arab's tent untu the sun had passed meridian, A humble tent of this nature being nigh at hand, we had recourse to it, and never, perhaps, did we receive a more hearty welcome than that which was extended to us on this occasion. They gladly regaled us with the best mUk which their dairy contained, and in short adopted every avaUable plan to raake us cora fortable. At three o'clock p,m., we resumed our hot raarch along the banks of the Tigris, towards Graia, and had fre quent opportunities afforded us of seeing the raethod by which not only Turks and Arabs, but also Persians, draw water, for purposes of Urigation, frora rivers and weUs, It is as foUows : — A large and lofty frarae of wood, reserabUng a schoolboy's swing, is erected on a wooden platforra, which is so placed as to overhang the banks of the river. To the under part of the transverse beam of this machine two puUeys, the groove of each of which supports a very long rope, are firmly attached. To the end of that portion of each rope, which is suspended above the river, a bucket is made fast, and on being lowered into the river and fiUed with water, is raised to the level of the wooden platform on which the raachine -. stands, by means of an ox or a horse, yoked to the other end of each rope. The buckets, on reaching the level of the plat form, are tUted over by agricultural labourers, that their con tents may be conveyed, by means of artificial watercourses, to the lands which require irrigation. Of the two buckets, the one is being emptied while the other is being fiUed, We were indeed glad to reach the ferry, which conducts the traveUer across the Tigris to Graia, as we hoped to find there a shelter from the sun, which was stiU very powerful. For our safe conveyance over the river, two gufas quickly arrived. The horses and servants were the fust to embark, and it was with no ordinary degree of astonishment — our experience of 2 E 418 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, gufas being at the tirae very Uraited — that we saw the horses bounding, one after the other, from the jetty not into a large }iorsefeny-boat, which, for the accommodation of horses and cattle, are comraon on aU Asiatic rivers, but into a gufa — a vessel which we have elsewhere described as reserabUng a large circular tub, or basket. One horse, however — a grey Arab stalUon — ^persistently refused to enter the gufa, and there was, therefore, no alternative for us to adopt but to raake hira s-wira frora one bank of the Tigris to the other. This feat he quickly accoraplished under the guidance of his groora. On reaching Graia, we entered a large garden, in order to obtain rest for our weary body, and shelter frora the scorching rays of the sun. As we were crossing the thres hold of this garden, we were raet by three or four Moham medan women, who, -with much trepidation, told us that as their husbands, the gardeners, were from home, we could not, on any account, be permitted to remain. We expostulated -with these fair creatures for a few rainutes, but apparently -without any success, as they continued -with great persistency to insist on our leaving the preraises. Feeling, however, that we were quite unequal to pursue our journey untU the sun had set, we again appealed to the corapassionate feelings of these woraen, and ceased not to do so, until they had con sented to aUot us a roora in which to wash and obtain a Uttle rest. In due course of time, we resumed our joumey towards Baghdad, which city was not raore than five mUes from this point On our way thither, we passed a tract of land, which is infested by -wild pigs. Hunting these animals during the winter months is a source of great arauseraent to the English, who reside at Baghdad ; and it is indeed desirable that these wild pigs should not be suffered to raultiply to any great extent, as they occasionaUy prove destructive to human Ufe, Thus, only a few hours before we crossed this plain, a wUd boar had attacked and killed one man and wounded three others. As we entered the gates of Baghdad — for it is a waUed city — our meraory brought back to us the Arabian tales, and MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 419 as we rode through its dimly lighted streets, on our way to Colonel Nixon's residence, where we were to spend a few days, we remerabered the fact that the sarae streets had, centuries ago, been traversed by the faraous Haroun-al- Easchid, " incognito." This city, the capital of Assyria, and situated on the banks of the Tigris, at a distance of five hundred raUes above the Persian Gulf, was for five centuries the residence of the Abasside caliphs. It has, throughout the course of ages, experienced great -vicissitudes of fortune. Two of the raost raoraentous events which, according to history, have befaUen it, are its siege and capture, in the first instance, by Halaku, and, in the second, by Taraerlane. At the former of these sieges, which took place a.d. 1257, three hundred thousand persons are said to have been massacred in cold blood, and at the close of the latter siege, which occuned A.D, 1400, Taraerlane is lepoited to have foimed beyond the walls two pyramidal mounds, containing the heads of ninety thousand of the leading citizens, whom his tioops had slaughtered. Baghdad leached the zenith of its influence and prosperity during the caUphate of Haroun- al-Easchid, and the caUphates of that prince's raore irarae diate successors. The power of these rulers was eventuaUy curtaUed by the Seljak princes, and thus a way was prepared, as it were, for the onward march of the myriads of Tartary, In the course of time, a,d, 1534, when a possession of Persia, it feU beneath the -victorious sword of Suliraan, the first SiUtan of Turkey, DurUig the reign of Shah Abbas the Great it again becarae a part of the Persian kingdom, and continued as such until 1638, when Murad the Fourth, who commanded the Turkish forces in person, laid siege to it and took it Since the last-mentioned date it has remained in the hands of the Turks, Their possession of it, however, has, since the days of Murad, been disputed on two occasions. In rthe early part of the 18th century, Nadir Shah strenuously endeavoured to make it once more a possession of Persia, while, in the early part of the present century, Mahomed AU Mirza, Prince of Kerman-shah, made a similar unsuccessful atterapt, 2 E 2 420 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. The streets of the city — we speak not here of its bazaars — are, as is the case with all Eastern cities, very narrow. Nor are they reraarkable for their cleanliness. The houses, like those of Busreh and Hillah, have no windows opening on to the streets, so far as the lower stories are concemed. Nor are the upper stories well provided in this respect. There are, however, as a riUe, two or three sraall windows and one large one — the latter like a pent-house, overhanging the street — ^in the upper story of each house, but they are, in not a few in stances, so well secured, either by lattice work of hard wood or bars of iron, as to have the appearance of fortifications. This reserablance is rendered, if possible, stiU more perfect by the hea-vy doors with which each house is closed. Dwellings of this kind give a gloomy appearance to the streets which they form. The internal arrangeraents of such houses, however, are very comfortable. There is generally a large quadrangle, on which the lower rooras of the house abut, whUe the upper chambers open on to a verandah, which is paved with clay slabs and enclosed by wooden palisades. The roofs of the upper rooms forra broad terraces, which, in sorae instances, are enclosed by walls, and in others, by raUings, As the heat of Baghdad is alraost unendurable during the summer months of the yeax, the inhabitants are obUged to pass the nights ou the terraces of their houses, which become, therefore, during this season of the year, neither raore nor less than vast dorraitories, A wall divides that portion of the terrace, which is occupied by the feraale raerabers of the faraily, frora that which is occupied by the males, Surdabs, also (of which we have given an account in our description of HUlah), are regarded as necessary appendages to all houses in this city. The old bazaar, which covers several acres of land, consists of one main co->^ered street or arcade, with several other simUar, though sraaller, arcades crossing it at right angles. The new bazaar, which is a most creditable structure, has a roof of brickwork, which is so gracefully arched as to resemble the ceiling of a crypt Each of these arcades is set apart for the accoraraodation of particular tradesmen. Thus in one there MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 421 are di-apers ; in another, grocers ; and in a third, shoeraakers, &c., &c. The city and its suburbs, the latter being on the opposite bank of the river, are connected by a very dilapidated bridge of boats. The boats forraing this structure are raoored head to streara, and are linked to each other by chains and planks. It is a highway for horseraen and pedestrians only, caniages in Baghdah, with one exception, not being in requi sition. The Tigris, which at this point is broad, is an orna ment, and of great service, to the city which stands on its banks. We observed that horses, raules, and asses were brought down each night to this river for watering, and that it was also much resorted to by men and boys for bathing. Many water earners, too, carae to its strearas, and fiUed huge skin bottles with water, which they then placed on asses, and took into the city, Woraen in groups of three or four also carae here to replenish their water jars, which they carried picturesquely on theU heads. During the first week we spent at Baghdad, one of these woraen having waded too far into the river, was swept away by the cunent ; her three corapanions went to bei- rescue, but unfortunately both she and they met -with a watery grave. Having rested a day or two, we entered, -with anticipa tions of great pleasure, on our explorations of this ancient and classical city. The objects of interest to which we gave our attention in the first instance were the Christian churches. The Eoman CathoUc Church of S, Joseph was the first on our Une of march. It is served by French priests, and one of them, a most inteUigent raan, volunteered to be our guide. In the paved court-yard which surrounds this church we observed a flag-stone, on which was recorded the foUowing inscription : — D. 0. M, Hic Jacet Vir NOBILIS ac pr^clarvs Petrvs Alexnd, a Covperie 422 mesopotamia, babylonia, and assyria. Babyl. Episc. et Franc. Eegis Consvl Obiit Bagdadi xxvii iph. m)CCCXXXl HVNC LAPID, POS, IN EJVS MEMO, F, Baro, aVeimars Franc, consvl generalis Bagdadi XV Decemb, mdcccxli. On expressing our astonishraent to the priest at finding this raeraorial and grave of the late bishop in such a place, he replied that at the time of this prelate's death, the Christians had no cemetery in Baghdad, There is a school for boys, and one also for girls attached to this church. We then -visited the Syrian Church of the Immaculate Con ception, in which the only particular worth recording iS' the fact that the font, which is of stone, is raade in the form of a cradle. We caUed upon the Greek archbishop, a mau of leaming and dignity, and we thought that he weU became his elevated position. We had half-an-hour's conversation with hira, and partook of sherbet and coffee which he had kindly provided for us. We afterwards paid a visit to the Armenian bishop, who accorapanied us to the Church of the Holy Trinity, We noticed that in the neatly-paved area round this church several people Ue buried. In one of the graves rest the reraains of Dx, Eoss, a physician, who died at Baghdad in 1849. The present church, which was buUt in 1852, has a school attached to it, in which boys and gixls leam side by side. The Chaldean Chuich next clairaed oui attention. It is in the foira of a paiaUelogiam, and its roof consists of seveial domes suppoited by piUais, In the school belonging to this chuich the boys, whilst we wexe pxesent, read aloud some lessons in Arabic apd Chaldee, and they aU joined in singing a Chaldeaii hymn. Here, too, we saw fifty Fiench scholais, one of whom, about ten yeais old, conjugated Chaldean veibs in a suxpiisingly clevei manner The Chaldean piiest upon whom we called leceived us with great kindness. Having completed the toui of the Christian chuiches, we MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, 423 proceeded to the Jewish school, which is a noble buUding, consisting of sevexal class-xooras. It was built by the Sassoon faraUy, and within its walls, Jewish childien, and not a few Tuikish boys, are well instracted in all bianches of leaming. The head-mastei, to whom we weie intioduced, had been tiained in Fiance, and seeraed to us raost efficient. In the couise of oux conveisation with hira, he told us that the city contained fouiteen synagogues, one of which, called Sheik EshaU, is raoie especiaUy resorted to by pUgiiras, whilst anothei is the place to which Persian Jews oiUy have recourse. We 'visited three of the principal synagogues, and in one we found several Jewish students studying the Talraud. As we were in the act of -withdrawing an aged rabbi, with a long flo-wing white beard, caUed our attention to a relic which had been brought frora Babylon. It was a stone erected in a perpendicular position, and on which there was a figure in rehef The rabbi observed to us with heartfelt satisfaction, that whUe this reUc renunded them of the captivity of their ancestors, it, at the same time, assured thera that they (the Jews) stUl reraained, whUst their forraer oppressors (the Babylonians) had passed from the face of the earth. When we left this synagogue we proceeded to the mosque caUed "Seyed Sultan .AU." We were told that people on their marriage day have recourse to this raosque early in the morning to say theU prayers. On our way thither we turned aside to visit the ancient khan caUed Ortula — a lofty buildUig with a domed roof, and from' the top of which we enjoyed a very fine view of Baghdad. And here we may observe that an amusing incident happened to us on paying a -visit to a mosque to which an old minaret crumbling into decay, is attached. We were expressing a wish to ascend this tower to obtain a bird's-eye view of the city, when a Mohammedan, who was passing at the raoment, accosted us in an angry voice, and said, " How can you wish to over look Baghdad at this hour of the evening ? Do you not know that the feraales are one and aU now on the tenaces of theii houses in an unveiled state, foi the puipose of pie- 424 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. paring their beds ? You wiU surely agree with me that at such a tirae, and under such circurastances, it is indecent on the part of men to ascend the top of a rainaret." After listening to these explanations we, of course, abandoned our intention, and hastened on to the raosque caUed Jarai-el- Meidan, which has a large dome adorned with raosaics, and a graceful minaret also simUarly decorated. Thence we proceeded to the raosque caUed Hassan Pasha, which also possesses a graceful and highly-adorned minaret. On our way to this mosque we met a pubUc crier, who was adver tising at, the very top of his voice, the loss of a female slave, and was offering a large pecuniary reward to any person who would give such inforraation as raight lead to her recovery. After this we visited the mosque styled " Ma-lo-haneh," which has two minaiets worthy of obseivation. On the following day we weie piesent -with H.B.M. Consul-Genexal at the examination of the pupUs of the native school of aits. We were the last to airive, and on our aj> proaching the buUding, the Turkish regiraental band played, " Oh, dear, what can the raatter be ?" and, on our aUghting from our horses, this air was changed for "God save the Queen." The pupils weie examined in geogiaphy, reading, raathematics, and languages. They answeied raost cleveily sorae difficult raatheraatical piobleras which were given to them. Several articles made by the pupUs weie exhibited, such as steel bits foi hoises, screws, shoes, woven fabrics, &c. The Vice Pasha was piesent, also Omai Pasha, and seveial othei Tuikish officeis. On leaving the school, we lepaiied to the fort and cavaliy barracks. Entering the gates of the fort we observed a very large gun, standing on a dais, and which, we were told, had been taken in battle from the Per sians by the Turks. On the gun there is an inscription, reading thus : — " On the service of Sultan Murad Khan, son of Sultan Ahmed Khan, Cast at the cannon-baU foundry caUed AU Murad Khan, in the year 1047." We next gave our attention to the cavaUy horses, form ing a most magnificent stud of about five hundred stalUons. MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 425 Some of them were chestnut, and others grey in colour. At the time of our visit they were being led from the stables they had occupied during the day, to their summer-night quarters. The latter are large open spaces furnished with immovable mangers. As the horses were on their way to these stables two of thera escaped frora their keeper, and began to fight. They reared upon their hind legs, and with their fore legs and raouths entered upon a fierce struggle. It was one of the grandest displays of strength and gxace which we evex witnessed. They wexe, at length, paited from oue another by the united strength of four or five soldiers. Early the next morning we went with the Nawab, the ex-King of Oude, and Dr Col-vUl to Kazeraain, a Turkish town situated at a distance of three or four miles from Baghdad. We crossed the river, on our way to the tramway station, in a six-oared boat, and on landing, entered the house of the Nawab Ahmed Ayal, a Persian prince, where we partook of coffee and sherbet. Our host ordered tea, but on being informed by his servants that it could not be ready before an hour's time, we decided not to wait, and hastened to the tramway station in order to proceed to Kazemain. We had no sooner, however, entered a tram-car when the Nawab's servants appeared, bearing a large silver tray upon which were ananged a sUver tea service and beautiful porcelain cups and saucers. On our begging that the car raight be detained to enable us to partake of the tea, our request was at once granted by our fellow-traveUers, who were Arabs, Turks, and Africans. We could not refrain frora observing, that had such an incident taken place in England, many bitter complaints would have been addressed to the editor of the " Times." The traraway Une, which passes first over a vast plain and then through date-paUn groves, was speedily traversed. On our arrival at Kazemain we found saddle horses waiting for us and mounting them, rode with the Nawab to his resi dence. This house is very large, and about ninety ladies are 426 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRLA. li-ving in the zenana, relatives of the Nawab and pensioners on his bounty. We were escorted to the surdab, which was furnished with couches, chairs, punkas, and other articles of furniture, weU calciUated to pioraote a guest's corafort. The Nawab took his place on a couch at the head of the suidab, and received three oi foui visitois, who, having heard of his anival had corae at once to pay theU respects to him. At noon, luncheon was announced, and we took our seats at the table, the Nawab presiding. At the foot of the table, Abool-Fedel-Miiza, cousin of the reigning Shah of Persia, -was seated. After luncheon, which was a repast weU worthy of the dignity of an eastern prince, we adjourned to a neighbouring house in order to gain a view, from its lofty terrace, of a very sacred mosque, within the precincts of which no person but a Mohararaedan is aUowed to enter In this mosque the remains of Moosa-Eben-Jaofar, a cousin and friend of Mahomet, are buried. It is adorned in front by a lofty portico, which is supported by pillars, whUe the main building is surmounted by two doraes raade of brick, and covered with thin plates of gold. At its four corners there is a short pinnacle siraUar in style to the domes. Graceful minarets stand at., tie coxnexs of, the compound in which the mosque is situated. They axe/ inlaid with mosaic woxk, and aie iraposing in appearance.' Neai this raosque there are thiee othei torabs ; the fiist c^htainlpg the lemains of Moosa's eldest son ; the second^JiJrfe bones of his second son; and the thiid, the J^ams of the tutoi of his sons. On the surarait of these three tombs stoiks wexe buUding theU nests at the time of oux 'visit. These biids are legaided as sacied heie, as in othei eastem countries, and to them is applied the high-sounding title of Hajee, from the fact, that as they disappeai fiora Tuikish-.Arabia duiing the wintei raonths, it is supposed they go on a pUgiiraage to the sacied cities of Mecca and Medina. On OUI letuin to the Nawab's xesidence we leraounted OUI hoises and lode about haff a raUe across the plain to a subuiban viUa belonging to His Excellency, whexe it was MESOPOTAMI.V, BABYLONIA, ANU ASSY.IUA. 427 foimexly his intention his xemains should xest. We enteied the house by the back entiance, and saw a model of a lion (evi dently of English raanufactuie), which was placed above the dooiway adraitting us into the fixst couityaid. Oui attention was also diawn to a gxanite statue standing above the dooi way of the second yaid, which is said to have been found among the rains of ancient Babylon. From the tenace of this house we had a fine -view of the ancient towei caUed Agei- Goff, 01 Agei-Kouf It gieatly xesembles the towex at Bixs Nimioud, and, at one tirae, was legaided by some txavellexs as the Towex of Babel. Owing to the oveiflowings of the Euphiates, it was impossible foi us to appioach neaiei to it. Mr BaUlie Fiasei, in his exceUent woik called " Tiavels in Kooidistan," &c., speaks of Agei-Kouf as foUows : — " It is a veiy lofty building, constracted of xaw biicks, like the lest of its class, but the quantity of fiie-bumed bricks scattered aU aiound it prove cleariy that at one tirae it raust have had a revitement of that material Between the biicks theie aie layers of reeds, it is said at every seventh tier, but we saw them indifferently at the fifth, sixth, and seventh ; and, in stead, a single layer crossed: the reeds are in some places two inches thick, and so fresh are they, that the doctor, ha'ving puUed down a brick or two, and thus exposed a parcel of the reeds, his horse began to eat them just as if they had been straw. At present it presents the appearance of a taU amorphous mass, resting, as it were, upon an elevated base of the same raaterial as itself; the layers of reeds, which protrude frora between the bricks on aU sides, giving to the profile a serrated aspect as it cuts the sky. There is a win dow, at least an opening, on the south side, about haK way up, and a sort of hole that looks as if it would lead to sorae thing on the east. This last, however, is, I believe, nothing more iraportant than a jackal's den ; as for the other, it was entered with some difficulty by Captain WUlock, I think, and Colonel Taylor's son, who found a smaU charaber, but the dust produced by an iraraense quantity of bat's dung under foot, and which they in vain attempted to clear away, pre- 428 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, vented any discoveries. Probably there were none to be made," Dr, Eoss remarked, " That this mass must have been square, and that the sides, as usual, fronted the cardinal points. I have Uttle doubt that it was just such a buUding as the rest of their singular and lofty edifices — a teraple for the religious worship of that time. The most singular and imposing thing about Ager-Kouf is its height, which must be very great. Au Italian surveyor, who took the height of this and Birs, I understand, found Ager-Kouf the higher of the two, but I should doubt the truth of this." We now rode back to the station, and pioceeded on our retum trip to Baghdad. One of our feUow- travellers, a Turk, was so prodigiously fat as to be almost a raonster, and at a pubUc show, in England, he would, we are sure, have been as great an attraction as Chang, the Chinese giant Horses ¦were awaiting us at the Baghdad traraway station, and raounting thera, we rode to the tomb containing the re mains of Zobeide, It is buUt of bricks, is in the form of a square, and surmounted by a spire. We ascended to the top of the tomb by a very dUapidated staUcase, and enjoyed a fine view of the surrounding country. The waters of the Euphrates, swoUen by its overflowing, were within a very short distance of the tomb, and in thera seven or eight peU cans were searching for the finny prey which they so dearly love. Around this tomb several Mohammedans have been interred, foUowing in this respect the inclination of the Prophet's disciples to buiy theii dead neai to tombs which contain the remains of those who were iUustxious upon eaith. But who was Zobeide ? is a question which may weU be .asked. She was the Queen of Haioun-al-Easchid, who was of aU the Caliphs the noblest and the best. He was the second son of an iUustrious fathei, and one in whom that fathex leposed the gieatest confidence. Duiing the caliphate of his fathei, and when the Byzantine throne was occupied by Ixene and Constantine, Haxoun maiched an axmy of 95,000 Peisians and Axabs from the banks of the Tigris to MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 429 Thiacian Bosphoius, and having taken possession of the gilts of Scutari, he theie pitched his carap. Irene dis- -eiing that hei dominions were at the meicy of the iqueioi, sued foi peace, which she obtained, upon the idition that she should pay, to the Caliph at Baghdad, the lual tribute of 70,000 dinais of gold. In five yeaxs aftex this successful wax, A.D. 781, Haioun- Raschid ascended the throne of his fatheis. His dominions ended from Africa on the one side, to India on the ier. He became the aUy of Charleraagne, who was as jverful in Europe as he hiraseff was in Western Asia, I despatched, on one occasion, an erabassy to Charleraagne, 1 members of which were enjoined to present to him in xoun's name an elephant, a water clock, a tent, and the fs of the Holy Sepulchre, which gffts were cordially lepted by Charleraagne, With the Eraperor Nicephorus of Eome, Haroun appears t to have been on good terms, for in a despatch which he dressed to that sovereign he called him a " Eoman dog," s court at Baghdad, which was renowned for its luxury, is d to have been the resort of savants. He perforraed not s than nine pUgrimages to Mecca, and upon hira, as a rereign of raarked piety, the distinguished title of Al- sehid, or the Just, was conferred. There is, however, one py dark stain upon his raemory, and that is the cruel extir- tion of the generous Barmesides, After a reign of twenty- -ee years he died. Near to Zobeide's torab is that contain- ; the bones of Sheik Mharoff ; it is enclosed by a waU, and ir it stands a short leaning rainaret. But the tomb which erested us most in this neighbourhood, was one situated f a raile frora that of Zobeide, and in which rest the aains of the high priest, Joshua. He is raentioned in the rd chapter of Ezra, and again in the third chapter of jhariah. This torab is regarded by the Jews as one of at sanctity, and they resort to it as one worthy of a pU- mage. After inspecting a portion of the wall of ancient jhdad we passed through the very extensive corn raarket. 430 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. for which its western suburb is famous. The cereals were not enclosed in bags, but were pUed up in heaps in brick granaries, the roofs of whieh were supported by weU-formed arches of the same raaterial. We were strack by the numbex of cattle yaids we saw, in which many buffaloes and cows were being mUked by men, and concluded that Baghdad could not complain of a scarcity of railk. When we had crossed the bridge of boats ovei the Tigris, we had sorae diffi culty in dUecting oui hoises thiough the roofed bazaars, not so rauch from their being badly Ughted, as from the nuraber of pariah dogs which were sleeping on the ground. We were afraid lest our horses should traraple some of them to death. In no city of the world can there be more of these pariah dogs than at Baghdad. They are, doubtless, exceUent scavengers, and consume what would becorae very offensive and pestUential, if left in the streets. On our retum to the Eesidency, we were grieved at hearing the loud waUings of a woraan, who was sitting ou the opposite bank of the river. Her father, it appeared, had been brutaUy mur dered, and she continued to howl for him for two whole days. We visited a German gentleman who had been long resident at Baghdad, and who was there during the visitation of the plague in 1831. , He told us that he closed his house and allowed no comraunication with the other inhabitants of the city, during the three months that the scourge lasted, and that consequently not one meraber of his family suffered from the pestUence, His neighbour, on the right hand, not using the same precautions, lost ten out of the thirteen members of his family. On the left hand side of this gentleman's house, a famUy consisted of fourteen persons when the plague broke out, and one only survived the sad visitation. In aU 75,000 people perished. That part of Baghdad, which suffered raost frora the plague, is stUl in ruins, and Ukely to continue so for sorae time to corae. But Baghdad's troubles did not end here, for in the foUowing spring another calamity befeU the devoted city. The river suddenly rose to an unusual height, overfiowed its banks, and inundated the surrounding MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 431 country. The houses near the ri-v^er were undermined and ruined, many lives were lost, and several skeletons were afterwards found in the gardens of these houses. A scarcity of provisions followed the inundation, and the inhabitants were threatened with famine. Everything was thrown out of its usual course, and the city becarae the melancholy abode of a diminished and saddened population. Many of the staUs in the bazaars were deserted, and trade was much in jured. The raosques were left without their iraauras, the Christian altars -without their priests. During our stay in Baghdad we had the honour of dining on several occasions with the Nawab Ek. Ub. Dowlah, ex-King of Oude. He complained to us of the great reverses of for tune which he had received at the hands of the British Government, and attributed his deposition from the throne of his fathers, to a misunderstanding of his rights on the part of the present powerful holders of India. He appeared, however, to be very cheerful, and to bear the wrongs which he had suffered -with extraordinary patience. We met a Turkish gentleman at one of these dinners, who fiUs the combined offices of High Priest and Chief Justice at Baghdad, and who, in consequence of his high position, has his whis kers and beard stained red with henna. The Nawab presented us with a silver cup, saying, " Whenever you drink out of this cup, think of me." We also paid a visit to Seyed Suliraan Effendi, and were enter tained by hira at luncheon. He is the " Nekib " of Baghdad (this word " Nekib '' signifies a Uneal descendant of Maho met), and has charge of aU lands and funds by which raosques and Mohammedan torabs are endowed. During luncheon our host became very aniraated, and in a discussion which took place on European politics, warraly affirraed that the Czar would never rest untU he had driven the Turks out of Europe, but " God foibid," he added, " that his wicked de signs should evei be canied into effect." This leraaik is paxticulaxly notewoxthy, as it was raade at a tirae when the wax, which is now distuibing the peace of Europe, was 432 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. not anticipated. An atterapt was raade, whilst we weie at Baghdad, to depose this Nekib, on the giound that he was not a lineal descendant of Mahoraet.* His rival went to Constantinople to substantiate his clairas, and xetuxned to Baghdad with powex to have the raattex investigated. There weie many witnesses to be caUed in favoui of each candi date, and so high was party feeling xunning on the occasion, that feais were entertained lest a faction fight should take place. The raattex was still undecided at the time of oux depaxtuie fiom Baghdad. The Nekib gave us authoiity to visit the mosque in which his gieat ancestox, Skeik Abdel Khadei, is buried. This Sheik was the grandson of Ali, who manied Fatiraa, the daughtei of Mahomet We saw many votaries in the act of kissing the tomb, sorae of whom had come all the way from India on a pilgriraage to it. So nuraexous axe pUgiinis fiora distant lands to this spot, that the couityaid of the raosque is enclosed on each side by apaxtraents, which axe especiaUy set apait foi the accom modation of these devotees. Baghdad is famous foi its breed of mules and asses, which are eithei dappled grey, blown, oi white in colour We obseived that some ofthese white asses were raade to resemble zebias, and otheis aniraals of the Tangura bieed, by means of henna. They aie fuU of vivacity, and distinctly show theii descent fiom the wild asses of Peisia, retaining the beauty of theii ancestors, and, when properly trained, being docile and tractable in no coraraon degree. We rauch coveted the possession of some of these beautiful animals. During our stay at Baghdad we did not escape from an attack of the curse of the city, the date boil, but fortunately in our case the boUs did not come, as is too often the case, on the face, but on the calf of the leg. Nearly aU the inhabitants are raarked by this plague spot, and not a few of the faU faces which we saw had their beauty marred by this pestilential sore. Some physicians attribute this visitation to the effects of bad water, and others to the uncleanly state of the houses. * The holder of this office must be a descendant of Mahomet. MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 433 We ourselves are incUned to think it arises more frora the latter than frora the forraer cause. We left Baghdad after a month's sojourn, and started by night in a Utter, as the days were so hot, en route to Aleppo. Our friends wished us to defer our departure untU the foUowing night, but fortunately we did not yield to their entreaties, as we learnt afterwards that the caravan which we sboiUd have joined, under those circumstances, was attacked and robbed the first stage frora Baghdad. Our caravan asserabled beyond the north gate of the city, and consisted, as is always the case, of raen of various nations, and was about one hundred strong in number. It was under the comraand of four ofificers, one of whom, the caravanbachi or chief, has command over the rest; the second is absolute in the raarch ; the duties of the thUd only begin when the caravan reaches a place of rest on the way ; and the fourth has the disposition of every part of the corps, in case of an attack. WhUst waiting beyond the gates of the city for the various members of the caravan to asserable, we had a very narrow escape, when stretched on the gxoimd, frora being bitten by a scorpion. These creatures abound in Baghdad and its neighbourhood, and are a source of terror to the iahabitants. Our first halt was at a khan situated at Jeddidey, which we reached the foUowing raorning, and where we remained untU sunset The keeper of the khan at the next stage, at Jeddi- dery-tel-Ayhavat, where we arrived the foUowing morning at one a.m., had locked the door of the khan, and had gone home, so we were obUged to sleep in front of the gates, until he returned. At sunset we left this place, and traveUed on to Kara Tepey; where we found raany traveUers asserabled in the khan. Thence we went to Kifri, where we were put into quarantine, ia consequence of our having passed through the plague-stricken districts of Mesopotamia. This quarantme was most trying to us, as our tents were made of driU, so thm in texture as to prove no protection from the in tense heat of the sun. A hot sUnoora was blowing upon us, and fiies and sandflies torraented us beyond endurance. We 2 F 434 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. became Ul of fever, and heat-apoplexy threatened us. There were Jews, Persians, Arabs, Tuxks, and Syrians in quaran tine with us. Two hundred Turkish horse soldiers formed our guard ; theU grey horses were beautfful creatures. On the eleventh day of our quarantine, we were so Ul that we were obUged to return to Baghdad, and to give up our intended journey to Aleppo, We considered this a fortunate circum stance afterwards, as it enabled us to visit many more countries than we had originally intended to do. We only remained foux days at Baghdad on oux xetuxn, though we wexe worn out and exhausted by oux -wretched experience of an Assyrian quarantine, Erabarking in a large river steamer, we proceeded to Busreh, but in consequence of the low state of the water were frequently aground, and made slow pro gress. One of our feUow passengers shot at a jackal, which ¦had come from the jungle to drink water from the river. We also saw a wUd boar of great size, at which a shot was fired without effect, and so he scampered back unharmed to his retreat in the jungle. We arrived at Busreh in three days' time, and took a pas sage, per stearaship " Calcutta," for Bombay, We reached BushUe, in Persia, on the foUowing day, and thence proceeded to Linga. Just before we arrived, a man had been waUed up, by comraand of the Sheik, for steaUng one of his horses. Victims to this form of capital punishment, die of starvation in the course of a few days. The laws of Persia are very Draconic. Thus it is customary to cut off the right hands of persons who have been convicted of theft, and it is not unusual to meet in Persian cities criminals who have been punished in this manner From Linga we went to Bunder Abbas, where an Arab and his wife, oux fellow-voyagexs, de- baiked in oidex to buxy the lemains of theii son, who had died on boaid that moming, in consequence of the intense heat of the atmosphere. The bereaved paxents of this unfox- tunate youth, congiatulated themselves that theii child had , died ere the ship in which we saUed had pioceeded fai from land, as the thoughts of a buxial at sea wexe most painful to MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 435 them. On leaving Bundei Abbas we diiected oux couise to Jask, a port of Beloochistan, which we "fetched" in due couise of time. It is a most desolate place, consisting of sandy plains. We have leason, howevei, foi stating that though banen and uninviting, so fai as outwaid appeai- ances are concemed, it is not devoid of hospitality, a most substantial welcome having been accoided to us by the Agent of the Telegiaph Corapany, who has resided theie foi some time. Having spent a day at this place, which gives name to a cape in the Gulf of Oiraus, we le-erabaiked and con tinued OUI voyage to Gwadui, which is also a poit of Beloo chistan. The haiboui of this last-named place is enclosed by high, sand-coveied hUls, which, when the sun shines upon them, are so red and glaring as to lendei gazing upon them a souice of much pain to weak eyes. Gwadui is occupied chiefly by fisheimen, who salt the fish which they capture. As the cleansing of the fish, fox this puipose, takes place on the shoies of the bay, and as the entiaUs are left there — exposed to the scorching lays of the sun — the stench is almost unendurable. No soonex had we enteied the haiboux of Gwadui, than a ship-of-wax, beaiing th£ fiag of the Imaum of Muscat, anived. InquUing the natuie of the raission on which she had corae, we weie told that the Imaum, owing to a dread of tieacheious designs entertained against him by his biothei, had recently fied fiom his principaUty and sought refuge undei the xoof of the Biitish Eesident CouncUloi at Gwadui and that the ship-of-war just arrived had brought not only his treasure — wealth and jewels — but also three or four ladies, who were raembers of his harera. It is satisfactory to know that this prince, under the good offices of Great Britain, was eventuaUy restored to his thi-one and principality. On our way to Kurrachee, a saUor feU frora the riggmg of the ship into the sea, and on a cry of a man overboard beiag raised, a life-buoy was iraraediately thrown towards him, which he was so fortunate as to reach. A boat was now lowered and sent to his assistance, and on his return to 2 F 2 436 MESOPOI^AMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, the ship he received several severe blows, instead of words of compassion, for his misadventure. Our stay at Kurrachee extended over four or five days, but as we have already written fuUy respecting the merits of that place, there is no need for us to give any further detaUs in regard to it. The day foUowing our departure from Kurrachee, a power ful-looking Arab, who was one of our feUow-voyagers, died of fever at two P,M, His corpse was at once enshrouded in a fabric of coarse texture, and in the evening at eight o'clock cast, into the depths of the sea. This ceremony was perforraed during the solemn tolling of the ship's beU, in the presence of the officers of the vessel, two Arabian friends of the deceased, and ourselves. The body on falling into the sea made a great splash, and as we were withdrawing from the scene, the Arabs exclaimed, " It is by God's decree that our friend has died," In due tirae, we arrived at Bombay, where we remained twelve hours. Indeed, there was no necessity for us to prolong our stay at this port, as we had, a few months pre viously, thoroughly inspected aU its institutions and other objects of interest. Erabarking on the Peninsular and Oriental Corapany's steam-ship " Thibet," Commander Eastley, we pro ceeded to Aden, which port we safely reached after a pleasant voyage of eleven days. This place, which became a British pos session in 1839, is a town and sea-port of .Arabia Felix, andis situated, as it were, in a hollow on the eastern shore, and enclosed on aU sides by high volcamc mountains. By means of a narrow isthmus of land, it is connected -with the raain land of Arabia. The cantonraents, which are some distance from the landing-place, are approached by a road cut through this rock of igneous origin. This passage, which was forraed by former possessors of Aden, has been considerably improved by the British, and is in itself an object of some interest. As Aden is a fortification formed, in a great measure, by nature, it raay justly be regarded as the Gibraltar of the Eed Sea. Having explored the various bastions, covered ways, ramparts, and towers of this eastem stronghold, our attention MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 437 was dUected to several ancient tanks, the solid masonry of which we greatly admired. Each of these tanks contained many gallons of water for the service of the inhabitants. The supply of water, however, wluch they conjointly afford, having been declared inadequate to the demand, the Govern ment have had recourse to the use of steam-condensers of sea-water As we were passing through the bazaars, we met with men of many nations. Thus, Turks, Jews, Arabs, Nubians, Abyssinians, Hindoos, and Europeans beset us at intervals. Many of the Arabs, whom we saw here, had red hair, and on making inquUies as to the cause of this singular custom, we were inforraed that certain Arabians of the coast esteem it highly beconUng to have hair of this colour, and take pains to produce it by the application of a dye composed of lime and other ingredients. On rejoining our vessel, we were rauch amused at seeing a number of these red-headed men, who were diving in a most dexterous manner in search of smaU pieces of silver money, which some of om- fellow- passengers were casting into the sea. These raen, as swira raers and divers, surpassed, we thought, the Malays, whora we had seen si -mi larly engaged during our stay at Singapore. Our ship having weighed anchor, we steamed through the straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, and entered upon the navi gation of the Eed Sea. This vast sheet of water, which occu pies, as it were, a deep rocky cavity, is one thousand one hundred and sixty mUes in length, and its mean breadth about one hundred and twenty raUes. In ages past the ety mology of the name of this sea was a source of difficulty to sages, and even in our times it has caused a display of much learning on the part of phUologists, There are sorae who have contended that the narae was derived from the colour of the water, and others from the reflection of the sand-banks, and the neighbouring mountains, AU, however, are now apparently agreed that the narae is merely a Greek translation of the " sea of Edom,"— a Hebrew word denoting red. 438 MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA, Each succeeding night, as our vessel was moving rapidly onwards, we were rauch pleased with the luminous appear ance or pho.sphorescent state of the waters of this sea. In the course of our widely-extended travels, we have had occasion to na-vigate many oceans, but never have we saUed over one so famous for its " sea-Ughts " as is this sea. After a ran of a few hours we passed in close proxiraity the island of Perira, which, not raany years ago, and under soraewhat singular circumstances, becarae a dependency of the British Crown, It appears that the captain of a French frigate, which was riding at anchor in the harbour of Aden, re ceived an invitation to dine with the British Eesident at that port. Towards the close of the evening, the French captain becoming rather talkative and confidential, informed his host, the British Eesident, that he was under orders to saU, shortly after raidnight, to the island of Perim, -with the view of taking possession of it in the name of his sovereign. Napoleon III, The British Eesident, however, knowing fuE weU the ira portance of Perim in a poUtical point of view, to any nation which nught take possession of it, iramediately resolved to fore- staU the French captain. Accordingly, lea-ving the room on a sUght pretext for a fewminutes, he wrote a despatch to the cora raander of an EngUsh gun-boat, which was fortunately in port at that tirae, orderiag hira to proceed without delay to Perim, and to take possession of it in the narae of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. This order was no sooner received than it was obeyed, and on the anival of the French frigate a few hours later, the indignation of the captain knew no bounds, when he saw the British ensign floating over the island and proclaiming it a British possession. But to retum to our subject. We afterwards passed the silent volcano of Teer, containing two or three craters in which sulphur abounds. The Elba mountains, which, owing to theU height of five or six thousand feet, define clearly the Nubian coast, next came in sight Eventually, we reached the promontory of Eas Mahommed, which separates the MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA. 439 Gulfs of Suez and Akabah, and from which point of our voyage we obtained a passing view of Mounts Sinai and Horeb. Ha-ving at length passed Tafarana Point, which is said to be the place where the chUdren of Israel crossed the Eed Sea when on their journey from Egypt to Canaan, we were not long in reaching Suez. 440 Chapter XII. EGYPT. Suez — ^Embarkation of Pilgrims for Meeca — Cemeteries — ^Wells of Moses — IsmaUa — Cairo — ^Mosque of Grhama-el-Banat — Mosque of Sultan Q-horee — ^Mosque of Chief of the Dervishes — Mosque of Mahomet'-AU-Pasha — Citadel — St. Joseph's "WeU — Mosque of Sultan Hassein — Mosque of Bl- Refi — Large Square — ^Dutch Auction — Howling Dervishes at Mosques HiUmea.h — Mosque of St. Catherine — Mosque of St. Lazarus — Mosque — Tombs of the Pashas— Tombs of the Caliphs — G-ardens of Khedive — Public Gardens — G-ardens of Count Chicolani — Horse and Camel Fair — Old Cairo — Church of Holy Virgin Mary — Church of Aboo-sa-fayre — Church of St. G-eorge — Bazaars at Cairo — ViUage of El-Matareeyeh — Sacred Tree and Well — HeKopoUs — Prison — Museum — -Processions — Pyramids of Gizeh — Sphinx — Pyramid of Meydoum — Pyramids of Satara — Tomb of Sacred BuUs — Memphis — ^Alexandria — Pompey's PUlar — Cleopatra's Needle, &o. On leaving the stearaer at Suez we were not a Uttle gratified to find ourselves in a country which, ages ago, took such a prorainent part in the religious history of the East It was in this kingdom that the IsraeUtes passed theU first cap tivity, entering it as a pastoral people, and leaving it as a land of slavery, with a full knowledge of its advanced civi Usation. Egypt, the name by which it is most generally known, signifies the black country, an appeUation this, which owes its origin to the colour of the aUu-vial mud of the NUe. In the sacred scriptures it is soraetiraes caUed the " land of Ham," and occasionaUy the " land of Mizraim." This country, which possesses a superficial area of eleven thousand square raUes, di-vides itself into two large portions at the apex of the Delta. But as it is not so much our intention to enter into a geogra phical or historical description of Egypt as to record what we saw and did when traveUing through certain of its districts, we shaU at once pass on to say a few words, first of aU, respecting the City of Suez. This town, which was founded EGYPT. 441 many centuries ago, and which retained, until the completion of the canal, a few vestiges of its antiquity, such as old waUs and gates, has now all the appearance of a modem European city. Were it not for its past history, and for the fact that here, in our time, aU vessels from the East enter the Suez Canal, it would be a place utterly devoid of interest. It possesses, however, three or four fine buildings, and its streets are kept in exceUent order. We spent an hour one raorning in watching the embarkation ofa large number of Mohammedans, who were going on a pUgxiraage to Mecca and Medina. These devotees wexe apparently of aU ages and of all lanks and conditions in lffe. Several of thera woie airas, and not a few had piovided themselves with winding-sheets in case of death. We also witnessed tbe embarkation and departure of several companies of Egyptian troops for Abyssinia, -with which country Egypt was then waging a some-what unsuccessful war. Afterwards we visited three ceraeteries, which are especiaUy set apart for the interraent of Europeans. Of these ceraeteries the first is the property of the English, whilst the second belongs to the Latins, and the third to the Greeks. Frora Suez we went to the WeUs of Moses, which are not manyraUes distant from that city. Our journey thither was per- - formed in part by boat, and in part by land. Thus we embarked at Suez in a native yacht, and, hoisting sail to a fair wind, were quickly driven through the waters towards a long and weU- buUt stone pier, which is situated on the north-eastern shore ofthe Gulf of Suez. Landing at this point we mounted a donkey, whieh we had brought with us frora Suez, and rode to the WeUs of Moses. These wells, which are very smaU, are situated in a grove of date and acacia trees, and are scarcely deser-ving of a visit. On our return voyage, the winds and waves being contrary, we had great difificulty in making Suez Harbour. At midnight, however, we were so fortunate as to reach that point. The donkey, which we had taken with us on the expedition, becoming alarmed at the height of the waves, rolled about in a wonderful manner, and was the cause of our shipping a few heavy seas. Our visit to Suez 442 EGYPT. coming to an end we proceeded by raU to IsmaUa. Our journey over the desert to this town, though performed by raUway, was so slow and Uksome as to contrast raost un favourably with a joumey which we raade across this same desert, many years ago, in a four-horse van. On arriving at IsmaUa we found that it was a large place, and resembling, in all respects, an European city. It owes its existence /in a great raeasure to the French,- who were attracted thither in large nurabers during the construction of the Suez CanaL In passing through its streets we saw several evidences of declining prosperity, and we were assured by those who were weU in forraed on the subject that it was a city which, though young, had aUeady passed the zenith of its wealth and influence. All the lands around it were fruitful to a degree, and e-vi dently very weU cultivated. Frora IsraaUa we went by rail to Cairo. The pace at which we traveUed was quite as slow as in the forraer case. Abundant opportunities, however, were thereby afforded us of seeing the rich lands through wbich, at intervals, the Une of raU passes. On reaching Cairo we drove to Shepherd's Hotel, and, as the night was soraewhat advanced, we retUed to our room in pleasurable an ticipation of the " sights " which awaited us on the raorrow. Arising at an early hour we at once entered upon an explora tion of this city, which, under the reign of the present Khedive, has been greatly raodemised, and raade to resemble an European capital. The mosque of Ghama-el-Banat, a sanctuary to which Egyptian ladies alone have recourse for worship, was the first place to which we directed our steps. Thence we proceeded to the raosque of Sultan Ghoree, within the waUs of which rest the remains of the Sultan of that name, and thence we went to the mosque of the Chief of the Der-vishes. We now drove to the citadel, and inspected the magnificent raosque of Mahomet-Ali-Pasha. This sacred edifice, which is forraed of African raarble, is certainly one of the raost raagnificent buUdings we have as yet seen. The interior is especiaUy iraposing. Its lofty doraes of poUshed marble, which are adorned with gilded cornices and encUcled EGYPT. 443 by galleries, are very grand. Many of the piUars by which the various sections of the structure are supported are solid blocks of mottled marble. The pulpit in itself is an elaborate work. It is approached by a staircase of several steps, and is surmounted by a smaU domed pa-vUion, under which the preacher stands. The tomb of Mahomet- AU-Pasha is situated in that corner of the building which is on the right hand of the principal entrance. At the tirae of our visit it was covered with a red paU. There is in front of this raosque a spacious quadrangle, the floor of which is paved with raarble slabs, and in the centre of it there is a domed marble fountain at which votaries, ere they enter the mosque to pray, wash theU hands and feet as an ablutionary rite. This same quad rangle is enclosed on three of its sides by a cloister, the roof of which is in the forra of domes, and rests on lofty columns of marble, -each column being a monolith. On leaving this mosque and its spacious courtyard, our attention was directed to that part of the citadel where rhe Mameluke, mounted on his charger, took his famous leap, and was, together with his horse, dashed to pieces. The daring event to which we refer was on this wise. Mahoraet- Ali, the Viceroy of Egypt, haviag positive reasons for be- Ue-ving that the Maraelukes had entered into a conspiracy -with the Pasha of Acre, to depose and raurder hira, resolved to frustrate the plans of the conspirators, if possible. He was at the tirae in question busUy engaged in equipping an array to proceed to Arabia, for the purpose of re-capturing the sacred cities of Mecca and Medina frora the hands of the Wechabi — seceders from Islamism — who but a short time before had besieged and taken possession of thera. All his mUitary preparations being corapleted, he announced his Uitention to celebrate, by the observance of a grand festival, on the 1st of March, 1811, the occasion of solemnly investing his son, Tussun Pasha, with the authority of generahssimo of the expedition. The Mamelukes of Cairo were amongst the invited "uests. Mounted on horseback, fuUy accoutred, and numbering eight hundred, they joined the vice-regal proces- 444 EGYPT. sion, which consisted of regiments of Turkish infantry and cavaUy, and marched to the citadel, where the investiture was to take place. The infantry being at the head of the cavalcade, had reached the centre of the citadel, while the Maraelukes were passing a long and narrow way, enclosed on both sides by high walls, and guarded at each end by strong gates. At this raoraent, Mahomet-AIi, who had hitherto not disclosed his intentions to any one, gave iraperative orders that the gate at each end of this nanow way was to be irarae diately closed. This coraraand was promptly obeyed, and the Maraelukes being now prisoners, as it were, an order was given to the Turkish infantry to line the waUs within which these brave raen were confined, and to coraraence a hea-vy fire upon thera. The Maraelukes, restricted to this narrow space, where their bravery and skill in handling the sciraitar were un avaUing, and surrounded by an enemy superior in force, were soon compelled to sunender. One of the gates of the passage was then opened, and the Mamelukes, who had been thus treacherously captured, were dragged out, one by one, and decapitated. They met their ignominious fate -with the raost undaunted courage, grie-ving raost of aU that the treachery of their eneraies had prevented them from giving another proof of that courage and skill in battle which the Turks had so frequently and so fataUy experienced. It now reraains for us to add that one of these Maraelukes, escaping from this general massacre, put spurs to his horse, and leaped headlong frora the surarait of the citadel into the street below. To the result of this desperate plunge we have already referred. On entering the spacious courtyard of the citadel, we had the gratification of seeing a large number of Egyptian troops on parade. They had the appearance of French soldiers, and performed theu evolutions with great precision. WhUe this railitary review was proceeding, not less than three himdred peasants, wearing the costurae of their country, were raarched into the square, under a very strong guard of infantry. They EGYPT. 445 had the appearance of prisoners, being not only manacled, but bound in companies of six, by chains of iron. On reaching the centre of the square, they Avere called upon to halt, and no sooner had they obeyed this comraand than the soldiers who had charge of them forraed theraselves into a cordon around them. This step, which was of course adopted with the -view of preventing an escape on the part of any of these men, seeraed to us quite unnecessary, as the chains by which they were bound to each other rendered flight or desertion impossible. There were several woraen present, sorae of whora were the wives, and others the daughters of certain of tiiese captives. They sobbed bitterly, and one of them, rush ing wUdly into the presence of a captive, who was evidently her husband, exclaimed, " Who will now give me food ?" To this query the man repUed, " God wiU provide what is needful." Upon making inquiries as to the meaning of this singular sight, we learned that the unfortunate raen in question were peasants, who had been kidnapped by coraraand of the Egyptian Government, in order to serve in the army. We ought to observe that in addition to this captive band of Egyptian peasants, there were several Nubians, who were as black as ebony. These men, who were kept apart from the Egyptians, were also pressed raen and enchained. The names of aU these men having been enroUed as recruits of the Khedive's array, they were marched off to a large banack which had been especially set apart for them. At the base of the citadel, there is a very ancient cavernous weU, which is styled the WeU of St. Joseph, on the supposi tion that he and the Virgin Mary, when fugitives in Egypt, concealed themselves within its precincts. The mouth of this weU, which is situated at a very great depth below the surface of the earth, is approached by a broad shaft, which is cut out of the soUd rock. The descent is effected by means of a winding staircase, which is also formed out of the solid rock, and is in itself a wonderful undertaking. On reaching the bottora of the shaft, we were introduced to a raan who, by the aid of a water-wheel kept in motion by a horse, was 446 EGYPT. raising water for the supply of the garrison and others. As we were exaraining very rainutely aU that was to be seen in this extraordinary place, the rays of our burning tapers feU upon a mound of earth, which we learned was a grave con taining the reraains of a former water-man, who, not many weeks before our visit, had died suddenly at his post of duty. As no one was disposed to cany the corpse of this man to the mouth of the shaft, it was buried in the spot to which -we have just referred. From the citadel and its objects of interest we went to the mosque of Sultan Hassein. This edifice is of great altitude, and is adorned -with two minarets, one of which is nearly three hundred feet in height, measured from the ground. It was founded in the year of the Hegira 757, that is, a.d. 1356, and it was within its walls that the Sultan, whose name it bears, kiUed certain of his ministers or ofificers. On passing the grand entrance, our attention was dUected to some dark stains on the floor, which we were told all superstitious Mohamraedans regard as blood-stains caused by Hassein's massacre of his ministers, and which marks, they contend, can never be erased, A mausoleum, in which rest the lemains of Hassein, and the doois of which are in laid with thin traceries of gold and sUver, is contained within the waUs of this vast shrine. Leaving this place, we entered the closely adjoining mosque of El-Eefi, It holds not only the torab of Eefi the Sheik, but one, also, in which the body of a princess lies buried. This princess, who was the beloved and highly accorapUshed daughter of the reigning Khedive, died only three weeks before our arrival at CaUo, Near to this mosque and that of Sultan Hassein, there is a large pubUc square, the centre of which is ornamented by a large stone fountain, and the four sides of which are enclosed by rows of trees. At the entrance of a street, which opens into this square, a " Dutch auction " was being held at the time of OUI visit, and gieat indeed was the excitement raani fested on the occasion, both by selleis and puichaseis. The mosque which we next visited was that of HUlmeah, It is of EGYPT. 447 a circular shape, reserabUng a tower, and sm'raounted by a very lofty dorae. Suspended frora its inner walls were several Unpleraents of warfare, such as battle-axes, swords, spears, and clubs. On entering, we observed a sheUc, who was sitting in soleran state with his back towards the sanctum sanctorum of the mosque, and who, we were informed, was the head or representative of a class of devotees generaUy styled by foreigners howUng der-vishes. It was evident from certain preparations which were being made, that a service of some kind or other was about to be held, and we, therefore, resolved to await the result. In the course of a few minutes from this time, fifty or sixty der-vishes, fine looking men, en tered the mosque, and having saluted the sheik and kissed his hand, seated themselves on the fioor, forming a circle, as it were, around the person of the sheik. They now began to exclaira, -with one accord, in a loud tone of voice, " To God the prophet is gone I " Having repeated this sentence more than one hundred times, they, still squatting on the fioor, mentioned in an equaUy loud tone of voice the narae of God one hundred tiraes, each dervish moving his body backwards and forwards as he gave utterance to that highly exalted name. They now sprang to their feet, and having divested themselves of their turbans and unfastened their long hair, began to bend their bodies forwards and backwards towards the earth in an extraordinary manner, WhUe these men were thus engaged, a prayer was being intoned by one of the party, to the sound of musical instruments, such as tambou rines, flutes, and kettle-drums. This prayer having been said, the sheik arose to his feet, and standing in the centre of the circle of dervishes, began to groan. In this act he was immediately followed by aU the surrounding devotees, who not only groaned loudly, but also threw theU bodies for wards and backwards to such a degree, that their long flowing hair actually swept, as it were, the fioor of the mosque. The groaning at length became very loud, and so excited were the dervishes, as to have all the appearance of raadmen. This siagular ceremony, which was maintained with the most un- 448 EGYPT. abated vigour for upwards of an hour, was attended through out -with the sound of musical instruraents. It is alraost needless for us to observe that at its close the raajority of those who had taken an active part in it were e-vidently greatly exhausted. We were on this occasion the only foreign spectators of this strange forra of worship. In a gaUery, however, enclosed by lattice work, several native women were standing and admiring, apparently, the zeal and devotion of theu co-reU- gionists and countrymen. Time would faU us were we to dweU on the mosque of St. Catherine, forraerly a Christian church, and now famous for one of its inner waUs, which is richly inlaid with mosaic work — or that of St. Lazarus, also at one time especiaUy set apart for Christian services, with its four hundred piUars and erabeUishments of mosaic work — or that of Said-al-Hossein with its marble columns and weU carpeted floors — or that of Sultan Zoolahome, or Koolahorae, renowned for its antiquity — or that of Ara'r with its roof resting on many pUlars. We wiU, therefore, proceed to describe our visit to the tombs of the Pashas, or, as they are soraetiraes caUed, the tombs of the Kings. These tombs, which are contained under lofty domed buUdings, are constructed of marble, and richly gUded, That in which repose the remains of Ibrahim Pasha is perhaps the largest and most imposing of aU these royal sepulchres. Very closely adjoining these tombs, indeed, under the same roof, there are others, which enclose the bodies of princesses, -who were members of the reigning family. The tombs of these mausoleuras containing the bodies of princes are further distinguished by carved turbans, which are placed at the head of the torabs, whUe those ia which princesses rest are characterised by veUs. At the tirae of our visit to this charnel-house of kings, a nuraber of lay readers were chanting prayers. This sacred duty is, we were informed, observed hourly throughout the course of each year by readers who are especiaUy appointed for that purpose. Near to this place there is a large Egyptian ceme- ; EGYPT, 440 tery, containing many graves, several of which are enclosed by waUs, As the tombs of the Caliphs, or the tombs of the Mame lukes, as they are soraetiraes designated, form one of the interesting features of Cairo, we drove thither from the tombs of the Pashas, They are situated beyond the Bab-el- Niui, or Gate of Victory, and are in a sad state of dUapida tion. Of these tombs, many of which are adorned -with wood carvings and raosaic work, three in particular proved very interesting, naraely, those in which rest the reraains of Caliphs Barkuk, Ashraf, and Kaid Bey. In the raausoleum of CaUph Barkuk there is also a tomb in which rest the remains of one who was the chief eunuch of Barkuk's house hold. When we caU to mind the fact that in Egypt, as weU as in Persia, Syria, India, China, and other Asiatic countries, eunuchs attained great power and influence over merabers of royal faraiUes, we cannot be at aU surprised on finding CaUph Barkuk and his chief eunuch now resting, as it were, side by side in a royal sepulchre. In the raausoleura of Kaid Bey our attention was directed to two stones, on which were prints of a human foot By superstitious Mohamrae dans they are of course regarded as prints of the foot of Mahoraet. As we were in the act of leaving these torabs, our minds very naturaUy dwelt on the power which the Mamelukes, now no more, attained in Egypt. For four hun dred years they were the recognised rulers of the land Their extemUnation, in 1811, though txeachexously contrived, has, beyond all reasonable doubt, pioved a blessing to Egypt, foi theii government was as despotic and cxuel as theii racial chaiactei was depxaved. It was, in shoit, neithei more noi less than a govemment of slaves, fox theix stiength was evex and anon leciuited from young slaves sent diiect frora the slave maikets of Geoigia and Ciicassia, Peisonal biaveiy, possessed by them to an extxaoidinaiy degiee, was, peihaps, the only -virtue which adomed theii chaiacter Having visited the gardens of the Khedive, the public gardens, and those of Count Chicolani, aU of which'proved 2 G 450 EGYPT, very interesting, we repaired to a horse and camel mar ket, which at the tirae of our visit was weU stocked with aniraals of both kinds. The horses — sorae at a walking, others at a trotting, and not a few at a gaUoping pace — were being paraded in the presence of intending purchasers. One of the raany Egyptian horse-dealers who were present frequently exclairaed, whUe gaUoping his horse from one end of the market to the other, " I wUl take twenty pounds for ray horse," On coraing to a stand-stUI in front of those persons who were in search of horses, and finding that not one of thera was disposed to give the sura demanded, he again spuned the jaded animal along the open space set apart for the fair, as frequently caUing out, " I wUl take seven pounds for ray horse," At this price it was sold. It appeared to us that this raethod of seUing horses was universally pxao- tised at the hoxse faU of CaUo. ' We now dUected oui couise to old Cairo, the quaint streets and ancient Christian chuiches of which place highly inteiested us. The luins of the old waU and those of the ancient aqueduct wexe, howevei, the fiist objects to attract OUI attention. Of the chuiches of old Cairo, that which is dedicated to the Holy VUgin Maiy pioved especiaUy iaterest ing. In the ciypt of this sacied edifice, which (pxevious to the election of the chuich now standing ovei it) was a cave oi gxotto, Joseph and Maiy, togethei with the infant chUd Jesus, are said to have sought and found a refuge. In the waU of this ciypt there are three recesses, one of which is said to have foiraed the bed of Jesus, whUe of the othei two it is raaintained that one was the lavatoiy in which the body of the holy child was washed, and the othex the cupboaid in which His clothes Weie kept. On the waUs of the church there are portraits of Christ, of His apostles, and saints. One of its principal features, however, is an elaborately carved rood screen, which is inlaid with ivory. Within these hal>- lowed courts, Copts, or Egyptian Christians, are wont to pray. They are regarded as the only true descendants of the ancient Egyptians, and are said to have erabraced Christianity ere EGYPT, 451 the close of the first century. The church of Aboo-sa-fayre, which is also the property of Copts, next demanded our atten tion. It contains, as does its sister church of the Holy Virgin Mary, an elaborately carved rood screen, which is inlaid with ivory. On its walls we observed portraits of Christ, of His apostles, and of Aboo-sa-fayi-e, The Greek Church of St, George next came under notice. In this edifice* there is an enclosed shrUie, especiaUy dedi cated to St. George, and above the altar there is a represen tation of the saint in the very act of kiUing the dragon. This holy of hoUes is further adomed by artisticaUy formed wax figures of huraan legs, arras, and eyes, aU of which have been placed there as a mark of gratitude by persons who were either lame or bUnd, or both, and -who, o-wing to the intercessory prayers of St, George, were restored to health. Near to this shrine there stands a pUlar, to which an iron chain and coUar are attached. On inquiring the use of these symbols of prison Ufe, we learned that some devotees, on coming to seek blessings at the hands of St, George, manifest their unworthiness and seff-abasement by putting this coUar around their necks. Indeed, those who feel more keenly than others the reraorse of sin, not unfrequently pass the night in this painful position. Adjoining this church thexe is a very comfoitable dwelling-house, in which, at the tirae of OUI -visit, a Gieek bishop was lesidiag. This worthy pielate, healing that we weie inspecting the chuich, carae foiwaid and in-vited us to pay hira a -visit. We gladly availed oui selves of this invitation, and aftei an houx's conveisation with ^ OUT new acquaintance, we took leave and letiaced oui steps from old to new CaUo, On the foUowing moming we visited the bazaais, some of which, being in the foim of aicades, and crowded with trades men of aU kinds, gieatly leminded us of the busy raaits of Baghdad, Fiora these bazaais, whexe raany beautiful and costly axticles wexe on sale, we diove to the, eite on which formeriy stood HeUopoUs, "the city of the sun," oi On, as it is caUed by the Egyptians, oi Eyn-esh-Sheras, " the fountain 2 G 2 452 EGYPT, of the sun," as it is styled by the Axabs. It is situated at a distance of six ox eight railes fxora CaUo, and is appioached by a weU-macadamised load. On oui way, we passed an old Egyptian foit, which was taken by Napoleon Bonapaxte, and in which Fiench tioops were quartered for sorae time. The next objects which attracted our attention in passing, were extensive infantry barracks, a large mUitary hospital, and a cavaUy encarapraent Proceeding onwaids, we anived at a palace, in which, if we mistake not. Prince Mohammed Tauphik, eldest son and heir-appaient of the Khedive, passes much of his tirae. It is a raagnificent buUding, and stands in extensive and weU-kept grounds. At length we reached the vUlage of El-Mataieeyeh, and, on alighting from oui caniage, hastened to inspect the old sycamore tree, undei the wide-spieading and shelteiing boughs of which (according to tradition), the holy famUy sought repose, when wearied with their fiight frora the dominions of the relentless Herod, This tree is frequently visited by Greeks and Levantines, who verUy beUeve that the Holy VUgin, with her husband and babe, rested under its shade. Its trunk and lower branches were, at the tirae of our -visit, literaUy covered -with the deeply carved imtials of these Christians, and the Khedive, in whose garden it stands, fearing lest it should perish under such mutilations, has enclosed it by a paUsade of wood, beyond which no one is now suffered to pass. Near to this far-famed tree, there is a weU at which, it is said, the Holy FaraUy were aeeustoraed to assuage their thUst. Eesuming our journey, we speedUy arrived at HeUopoUs, and were not a Uttle disappointed to find only a few faint traces remain ing of this once faraous seat of learning — where was the uni versity in which Eudoxus and Plato studied thUteen years, where Herodotus gathered so rauch of his knowledge respecting Egypt, and where Pharoah gave to Joseph a wife, Asenath, daughter of Potipherah, priest of On. The sole reraaining vestige of the teraple of the sun is a fine obelisk, which the Arabs caU the coluran of Pharaoh, It is forraed of a mono- Uth block of red granite, rising to an altitude of sixty-two EGYPT, 453 feet Hieroglyphics setting forth the name of Osirtesen the FUst, who reigned over Egypt not very long after the construction of the pyraraids, axe caxved on each of its sides, Thexe can be no doubt that othex obelisks, not to speak of statues, Ue buxied beneath the suiface of the earth. But let us now conclude oui xeraaxks on this once faraous city and its sacied shrine by obseiving that it was heie the buU Me vis received homage, and that the teraple of the sun was selected by the Aiabian phoenix as the raost suitable place in which to eiect its funeral pyie. As we were retuming from HeliopoUs to Cairo we met the Khe dive and Prince Mohararaed Tauphik, the heir-apparent. They were seated in a carriage which was being driven at a rapid pace, and attended by a nuraber of well-raounted hussars. On seeing thera approach, we ordered our coach man to stop by the wayside untU the royal cortege had passed, and with this as weU as other proofs of loyal respect which we manifested on the occasion, the Khedive and Prince were e-vidently much gratified. On our return to Cairo we drove first of aU to the lofty gateway caUed Babzookereah, under which criminals are executed as a warning to others. Only a few days previous to our visit a malefactor, who had been convicted of the grave crirae of ha-ving stabbed his brother-in-law to death, was hanged on this very spot. Thence we went to a prison, in which we found a great many prisoners of both sexes on remand. They appeared to be very much crowded together, and one of them, a Greek sailor, on seeing our Chinese servant, in formed us m broken EngUsU that he had been on a voyage to China, - Examining hira as to the truth of this stateraent, we discovered that he was very faraUiar -with Hong-Kong and the Chinese port of Wharapoa, Frora this abode of -wretched ness we directed our course to the rauseura, which contains a large and well-selected collection of Egyptian antiquities of aUnost aU kinds. As we were driving through the streets on our way to the museum we met two singular Egyptian processions. Of these trains, one, which was led 454 EGYPT. by a few male rainstrels, consisted alraost entirely of woraen who were escorting a young lady to one of the pubUc bath houses witb the -view of her performing ablutions prepa ratory to her raarriage on the foUowing day. Above the head of the bride-elect a canopy was borne which, owing to its being so closely-curtained, corapletely shielded her from the gaze of the "profane -vulgar." The other pro cession was formed entUely of men who, led by musicians and bannerraen bearing green flags, were accompanjdng a young Mohararaedan gentleraan through the principal streets of the city prior to his setting out on a pilgriraage to Mecca and Medina, It now remained for us to visit the pyramids. On the foUowing morning, therefore, we arose at an early hour, and seating ourselves in a hired caniage crossed the NUe by a magnificent bridge recently constracted by a French com pany, and drove along a xoad not only weU-constxucted, but also weU-shaded by acacia txees and stietching across the vaUey of the NUe to the pyiamids of Gizeh, On arri-ving at the base of these vast raonuraents of antiquity, we at once raade preparations for the exploration of the interior of the one which bears the name of Cheops, We entered by a smaU aperture in the side of the pyxaraid, and which is about thUty feet above the level of the ground. Aided by stalwart Arabs we passed along incUned, tortuous, and nar row passages into the very centre of the pyramid, where we found an apartment enclosed by waUs of poUshed granite, and which is styled the "Queen's Chamber." Thence we ascended by passages reserabUng those which we have aUeady described, to another apartraent caUed the " King's Chamber" The latter, though larger, is in almost aU other respects simUar to the " Queen's Chamber," It contains, however, a broken sarcophagus in which, it is supposed by some tra veUers the reraains of Cheops, who was the builder of the pyranUd, at one time rested. According to Dr BUch, " the C9,useway for the stone was built by a corvee of one hundred thousand raen, relieved every three months for ten years (in EGYPT, 455 aU four miUions of men), and twenty years were in addition at the rate of three hundred and sixty thousand (givino- seven miUions more raen), employed upon the pyramid itseff," When we reflect even for a raoraent on the vast amount of labour and the great expenditure of treasure which was incurred by Cheops Ul erecting this mighty sepulchre for the ultimate reception of his own reraams and those of his queen, and when, too, we consider that the reraains in question are now nothmg more than a handful of dust, and scattered no one can teU in what dUection, the vanity of aU human wishes and expectations stands forth in sad reUef In regard to gorgeous graves and sepulchres, Euripides said — " AvOpwiruv Be /lai'vovTai copies, Sairava^ orav Bavovai TrifjuTruaw Kevas," or in other words, " Men's minds are mad when they bestow vain cost upon dead bodies." This remark appUes, we think, -with rauch force to Cheops, who, in raaking the raost costly preparations for the soleran entorabraent of his own body, not only exhausted the resources of his treasury, but incurred, at the sarae time, the hatred of his subjects. Moreover, though the colossal torab stUl stands, where are now the bones which were once deposited therein ? We visited, in the next instance, the pyraraids of Cyphren and Mycerinus, and then proceeded to examine and admUe the Sphinx. Afterwards we entered a closely-adjoining temple which, owing to vast mounds of sand that had gathered over it, had reraained concealed for centuries. In deed it was only brought to light a few years ago, in con sequence of the active antiquarian research of Mariette Bey, It is constructed of slabs of red granite, and is divided into ten large rooms, aU of which are utterly devoid of orna mentation. Campbell's torab, so caUed because it was dis covered by a gentleman of that name, did not escape our notice. It is of considerable depth and consisted, at one time, of three or four chambers. It contained at the time 654 EGYPT. of our visit two sarcophagi, one of which was in a very dUa pidated condition. As it was irapossible for our caniage to proceed across the desert to Memphis, we mounted donkeys which we had taken the precaution to send to Gizeh on the preceding night, and rode towards the pyraraid of Meydoura. On our way we passed an Egyptian -viUage at the gates of which several raUch cows and raUch buffaloes were standing. Sorae dis tance beyond this viUage we observed a ceraetery, the rude and simple graves of which contrasted most strangely -with the vast pyramidal sepulchres of Gizeh. Large caravans of camels also crossed our path, and we met, ever and anon, tribes or corapanies of Bedouins, aU of whom were armed to the teeth, and looked as wild and uncultivated as the sandy desert through which they were travelUng. On aniving at the pyramid of Medoura we dismounted, in order to examine it. Passing onwards we reached the pyraraids of Abbusseen, and eventuaUy those of Sakara; nor did those at Dadshur pass unnoticed. At Sakara, how ever, we found raore to interest us than the pyraraids. Thus, we entered a subterranean passage, which was broad, tortuous, and lofty, and on the sides of which, at inter vals, were heiraetically sealed chambeis, each containing the remains of a sacred bull. The leraains of each buU are enclosed in a colossal saicophagus of highly poUshed marble, which has been raade out of one soUd block. This fact was raade known not only by the opening of one of these charabers, but also by the opening of the sarcophagus which it contained. The sarcophagus in question still re raains in its former position, and on entering it, with two other gentlemen, we found that it contained an ordinary sized table and three chairs. . On the removal of the mummy of the buU, these aiticles of fumiture were substituted, and no sooner had we seated ourselves than the person in charge of the tomb, on producing a bottle of beer, asked us to par take of his hospitaUty. On withdrawing from this singular place, which we thoroughly explored by means of candles EGYPT. 457 and torches, we entered an adjoining temple, the existence of which, owing to its having been covered with mounds of sand, was for many ages unknown. It consists of a few chambers, the paintings and decorations on the waUs of which appear to be as fresh and bright as they were on the day when the artist completed thera. This teraple and the tombs of the sacred buUs were brought to Ught through the iastrumentaUty of that indefatigable and learned antiquary, Mariette Bey. From Sakara we went to the site which was formerly occu pied by the ancient city of Meraphis. On our way thither we passed through several extensive date groves. Of this great city, however, of a past age, we found nought remaining except two colossal idols in statuary of granite, which were certainly not in situ, being prostrate on the ground. We now rode back to Gizeh, and, on rejoining our carriage, has tened back to Cairo. As we drew near to that city, we passed two or three magniflcent palaces, belonging to the reigning famUy, We recrossed the Nile by a noble looking bridge, which was constructed not raany years ago by an EngUsh corapany. On reaching it we were detained for nearly an hour, as its centre part had just been opened to aUow a large fleet of Egyptian trading vessels to pass up the NUe. As we sat in our carriage, we were much amused at the extraordinary multitude of people awaiting the reclosing of the bridge. It consisted of Jews, Arabs, Turks, Egyptians, Nubians, Abyssinians, and Europeans. Vehicles, too, of various kinds, such as carriages, gigs, water-carts, trucks, and drays ; and aniraals also, such as horses, ponies, raules, asses, camels, and oxen, were awaiting the removal of the obstruc tion which was the cause of our detention. We had no tirae to take a trip along the NUe. Having, however, on a forraer occasion navigated this noble river frora Atfeh to Cairo, we were not very desirous to raake a second voyage. Our visit to Cairo ha-ving now come to a close, we proceeded by raU to Alexandria, which city we reached in the course of a few hours. 458 EGYPT. Alexandria, situated on the shores of the Meditenanean Sea, twelve mUes frora the Canopic mouth of the NUe, owes its origin to the great warrior and sovereign whose name it bears. It was founded B,c, 332, and was buUt by the architect Dinocrates, who only a few years previously rebuUt the temple of Diana at Ephesus. Under the fosteiUig care of Ptoleray Soter it becarae faraous as a seat of learning, and its Ubrary of 700,000 volumes is said to have been the largest and raost valuable institution of the kind which the world contained at that period. This magnificent Ubrary, however, was destroyed by the Saracens, who, in A.D, 642, besieged . and captured the city, Alexandria became at a very early period one of the strongholds of the Christian faith, this reUgion ha-ving been introduced to its inhabitants by no othex peisonage than St Maik, Its coraraeicial ira portance was aUnost destroyed by the discoveiy on the pait of Vasco di Gama, in 1497, of a passa,ge to the East by the Cape of Good Hope. The constiuction of the Suez Canal by M, Lesseps, has made it once more the high load of nations. It no longei possesses the appeaiance of an eastern city, having assumed during the past few years the form and manners of an Eiuopean town. From the Hotel d'Angletene, where we had taken up our quarters, we saUied forth shortly after our anival in search of objects of interest. Of these objects, the first demanding our attention vvas Pompey's PUlar, which is situated between the waUs of Alexandria and Lake Mareotis. The shaft of this column, which is a monoUth of red granite, sixty-eight feet high, is surraounted by a capital of the sarae material, ten feet in height. The base, pUnth, and pedestal, which are also constructed of granite, measure together seventeen feet In the year 1781 some EngUsh naval ofificers ascended to the top of this piUar, The ascent was effected by the adop tion of the foUowing plan, A kite was raade to fly so directly over the pUlar, that when it dropped on the other side the string lodged upon the capital, A rope was then EGYPT. 459 bound to one end of the kite's string, and drawn over the top of the column by the end of the string to which the kite was attached, A sailor, who had come ashore for the purpose, now cUrabed, by raeans of this rope, to the top of the pUlar, where, through the instrumentality of a shroud, which had been made on the spot, he was speedUy joined by the officers. They discovered by this rash act that there was originally a statue on this piUar, one foot and ankle of which are stUl re maining. Various conjectures have been entertained as to the originating cause of this monuraent. Thus, while there are sorae who contend that it was not erected in honour of Pompey, but rather in meraory of the Emperor Diocletian, by one PubUus, who was prefect of Egypt, there are others who assert that it belonged to the grand building which con tained the Ubrary burned in 632 by Amr-Ibn-el-A's, -with the sanction of Omar, Frora this pUlar we went to an obelisk bearing the narae of Cleopatra's Needle, situated on the shore of the new har bour. It is a monoUth of red graiUte, and is seventy feet in length. Hieroglyphics, sculptured on each of its four sides, are said to refer to Thothraas and Earaases the Great,. two of the raany kings who reigned over ancient Egypt, As it considerably excels in antiquity the city of Alexandria, it has been supposed that it was originally brought from HeliopoUs to ornament a pubUc building in the new city. There were formerly two of these obeUsks, one of which, on falling down, was presented by Mahomet- Ali to the English nation. This presentation was of course raade raany years ago, and though preparations were made for its removal to England so far back as 1801, yet it was aUowed to remain in the position in which it had faUen until the year 1877. Our attention was next dUected to an old fort or tower, which is supposed to have flanked the palace of Cleopatra. The site, too, on which stood the church of St. Mark, was not unobserved by us. After standing for sorae tirae by the bay, across which JuUus Caesar swara when escaping frora Cleo patra, we drove to the public gardens, and thence to those of 460 EGYPT. the Khedive, With the pubUc gardens we were disappointed, but those belonging to the Khedive pleased us much. They are very extensive, and the paths by which they are inter sected are not only broad, but also weU shaded by taU and wide spreading trees. In one part of these gardens there is a pond, weU stocked with gold fish. From here we went to the Mahmoodeeyeh Canal, which is about fifty mUes in length. It connects the NUe with the Sea of Alexandria, and was devised and carried into effect by the Sultan whose name it bears. It is asserted that the only impleraent given to the labourers was an ordinary hoe, which, pro-ving rmequal to the work, they had in raany instances to reraove the earth by raeans of their hands. Being in this raanner overworked, and ha-ving very scanty rations, not less than 20,000 of them died ere the undertaking had been brought to a close. On the occasion of a former -visit to Alexandria, we had navi gated this canal from one end to the other, with much pleasure to ourselves. The traffic of which it could then boast has we fancy been considerably diminished by other means of transit which Egypt has now so largely at com raand. We afterwards went by raU to Earale, where the Khedive has a magnificent palace. The stables attached to it, and which at the tirae of our visit were occupied by gray cavaliy hoises, noble steeds of a Euiopean breed, suipass in con straction, comfoxt, and cleanliness any stables which we have as yet inspected. This palace has lately been deserted by merabeis of the loyal faraily, as it was heie that the beloved daughtex of the Khedive — a pxincess to whom we have refened on a foimei page — died in 1875, fiora the effects of fever Going sorae distance beyond this palace, we ascended a raound, and obtained a glimpse of the Bay of AboukU, now so faraous in history as the place where Admiral Nelson destxoyed the Fiench fleet. On oui letuin to Alexandria, we passed thiough the Tunis Bazaax, which being in the foxm of an aicade, and occupied by Jews and Mohararaedans, gieatly xerainded us of the bazaais which we had seen in Asia, EGYPT. 461 The peiiod of oui sojoum in Alexandxia ha-ving corae to a close, we passed thiough one of the few leraaining parts of the ancient city towaids the whaif, and erabaiked foi Pales tine, 462 Chapter XIII. PALESTINE, Port Said — Jaffa — Eoad to Jerusalem — Eamleh — Emmaus — Jerusalem — Q-reet Convent — ^Church of the Holy Sepulchre — .Armenian Convent and Church of St, James — Convent and Church of St, Mark — Convent and Church of the Holy Cross — Synagogues — Mosque of Omar — Mosque el-Aksa — Mosque Sidna Issa — Vaults — Golden G-ate — Pool of Hezekiah — Lower Pool of Q-ihon — ^Upper Pool of Gihon — ^Pool of Beth esda — Csenaculum — Supposed Tomb of David — Palace of Caiaphas — G-reek Cemetery — English Cemetery — Sir Moses Montefiore's Alms houses — Tower of David, or Tower of Hippicus — Waiting-place of the Jews — Bazaars — ^Vi3. Dolorosa — Palace of Pontius Pilate — Place of St. Stephen's Martyrdom — ^Brook Kedron — Q-arden of Gethsemane — Tomb of the Virgin Mary — Mount of OUves — Latin Church — Mosque of Jebel Tdr — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Tombs of Absalom, Zechariah, St. James, and Jehoshaphat — WeU of the Virgin Mary — Pool of Siloam — Pool of Joab or Nehemiah — Eetreat of the Apostles — Acel dema — Ancient Tombs — Hill of EvU CouncU— VaUey of Hinnom — Cave of Bezetha— Cave of Jeremiah — Ash Mounds — Tombs of the Kings — Bethany— Tomb of Lazarus — Bethlehem — Pools of Solomon— 'Eamah — Leda — Beyrout. Going on boaid the steam-ship " Espeio," the vessel by which we went to Palestine, we found that she was crowded with passengeis of alraost aU nations. Araongst the nurabei were English, Geiraans, Fxench, Austxians, ItaUans, Greeks, Levan tines, Araeiicans, Airaenians, PoUsh and Eussian Jews, Tuiks, Egyptians, Arabs, and one Chinese. The moming foUowing OUT departure from Alexandria found us at Port Said, a place which, owing to its situation at the mouth of the Suez Canal, has lately becorae a town of sorae iraportance. As we entered the harbour or roadstead, we saw three or four large steamers, which were about to proceed by the canal on their voyages to India, China, and othex Asiatic countries. PALESTINE, 463 whUe sevexal saUing vessels, chiefiy Gxeek baiques and brigan- tines, laden with Egyptian produce, were about to saU for European ports. Having let go oux anchox neax to a Giecian barque, oui attention was aioused by loud cxies of distxess, and on looking aiound foi an explanation of this mattei, we saw the mastei oi chief mate of the vessel in question flogging one of the saUois, a youth appaiently of sixteen yeaxs of age, in a most unmeicfful raannei. Haish treatraent, we fancy, is not at aU uncoraraon on boaid vessels which saU undei the flag of Gieece. On debaiking, we pioceeded to inspect the to-wn, which contains, so we weie told, a population of 10,000 souls, raany of whora, if not the raajority, are Gieeks, The principal street, though of no gieat length, is foiraed of neat looking shops and houses. At its entiance theie is a sraaU pubUc garden, containing not only a fountain, but also a band-stand, at which musicians occasionaUy asserable and discourse sweet strains of rausic, Ee-erabarking in the evening at six o'clock, we were glad to fiud that our vessel was not so rauch crowded, the Turks, who were our feUow voyagers from Alexandria to Port Said, having left her, in order to proceed by another vessel through the canal, on a pUgrimage to Mecca and Medina, No sooner had we re-erabarked, than our good ship resumed her voyage to Palestine, and on the following morning at ten o'clock we entered the port of Jaffa, At dayUght we were aU on deck, beiug desirous to obtain the first gUmpses of that country which has been rendered holy by the birth, labours, sufferings, and death of Christ, The Polish and Eussian Jews were especiaUy excited on drawing so nigh to the land which centuries ago had been given by God to their forefathers as an heritage for evei. The majority of them enteied upon leUgious seivices, some praying, and others reading aloud por tions of the Old Testaraent sciiptuies. One venexable looking man, who was evidently much excited, on finding that his son, a youth of fifteen yeais of age, would not join with him in leading the Bible, gave vent to his indignation by beating 464 PALESTINE, the lad so severely as to cause him to cry aloud for mercy. This unhappy boy was at length rescued frora the stem grasp of his enraged fether by the timely interposition of some feUow voyagers. So soon as our vessel had let go her anchor, a scene of the most indescribable confusion ensued. All were apparently anxious to debark at one and the same time ; consequently the gangways were crowded to such an extent that many wexe in dangex of falUng into the sea. A numbei of Mohararaedan poiteis, too, who had corae on boaid to assist, as they said, in removing the luggage, added gieatly to this scene of disoidei. Contiaiy to aU oxdeis, they, Uke so many thieves, seized fiist one poxtraanteau and then anothex, and it was with difficulty that they were lestiained by the owneis of these boxes from lerao-ving thera out of sight A woman, a robust Eussian Jewess, the wffe of a peasant, seeing one of these raen in the act, as she thought, of piuloining hex box, xushed at hira -with all the fexocity of a BiUingsgate fish--wife, and aUowed , not hei fuiy to abate untU she had given him a veiy sound thiashing. The husband of this modem Amazon watched the straggle in which she had engaged -with e-vident satisfaction, feeUng assured, from past experiences of her prowess, that she would be proclaimed the victor. On entering Jaffa, which is a very ancient city, having, according to PUny, had an existence prior to the Deluge, we were infiuenced by feelings of various kinds. For was it not here that, according to fable, Andromeda was rescued by Perseus from the sea-monster ? Was it not here that timber from Lebanon for both the first and second teraples was landed ? Was it not here that the prophet Jonah embarked for Tarshish ? Was it not here that when the citizens had, contrary to the faith of treaties, cast two hundred Jews into the sea, the person sent to avenge them surprised the haven by night and destroyed the shipping by fire ? Was it not here that Tabitha was raised from the dead by St Peter ? And was it not here that the same apostle, when sitting in the house of Simon the tapner, saw a vision which clearly PALESTINE, 465 indicated to him that the gospel should be preached not only to the Jews, but also to the Gentiles ? The city is raost picturesquely situated upon the slopes of a hUl, the suramit of which is cro-wned by a fortification. The houses are aU buUt of stone, and, as is the case with oriental dwelUngs in general, are surmounted by terraces. Owing to the sharp decU-vity of the hUl, on the sides of which the city stands, many of the streets are connected by fUghts of steps, and some, too, of these thoroughfares are spanned by arches. Of the waU by which this city was at one time enclosed, not much now remains. An inspection of one of its ancient gates afforded us much interest. Near to it there are two fountains, both of which in point of architectural design are very oriental. From this gate and fountains we went to the house of Simon the tanner, and sat for some time on the tenace whence St Peter had his emblematical -vision. And here we may ob serve that Jaffa is stUl more or less faraous for its tanneries, as there are at this tirae several such industries by the sea side. Passing the Armenian convent, which was foiraeily a hospital, and, as such, the place in which Napoleon Bona parte when retreating poisoned his sick soldiers, in order that they might not faU into the hands of the Turks, we dUected our steps to the shore where that same despot brutaUy massacred four thousand men in cold blood, after they had suxiendeied on a promise of quaitei raade to thera on the authority and in the name of Napoleon by young Beauhamais and anothei aide-de-carap. Seveial of these unfortunate men, in oidei to escape theii sad and crael fate, plunged into the sea and swara to sorae adjacent xocks. Fxom this place of tempoiaiy safety they were uiged by the Fxench officers to return to the shoxe on the sacxed assurance that no more blood should be shed. So soon, howevei, as these pooi wietches had xeached the shoxe fxora which but a shoit tirae before they had fied in teiioi, they weie cut down by theii faithless enemies. Having now thoroughly explored Jaffa, we hastened to 2 H 466 PALESTINE. the Gxeek convent whexe we wexe to lodge. The Gxeek piiests, oux hosts, xeceived us in the visitois' haU, and ha-ving piesented us with a spoonful of jam and a glass of cold watei, begged of us to occupy a room they had especiaUy prepared foi oux xeception. This xoom, which oveilooked the sea, pioved a raost comfortable abode. At seven o'clock we were ushered into a neat dining hall in oxdex to dine with the monks, and on taking oux place at the table, a no-viciate who was standing behind the chaii of the supeiiox, and who afteiwaids waited upon us at dinnei, intoned a gxace, which was foUowed by a blessing on the paxt of the supexior The dinnei, which consisted of stewed fowl, pUau, cheese, fiuit, and -wine from Cypius, was biought to a close by simUai religious obseivances. The foUo-wing moming at eleven o'clock, having break fasted with the monks, we began to make piepaiations fox oux joumey to Jeiusalera. We were soon equipped, and at two P.M. xepaixed to a sraall inn in the town of Jaffa, fxom the doois of which at 2.30 p.m. a waggonette, in which we had secured seats, was to start foi the holy city. As the wag gonette, howevei, did not come at the houi specified, we were in-vited by the landloid of the inn to sit down in front of his house, and there to await its arrival. This in-vitation we ac cepted, and were indeed araused to see the various caravans of camels, mules, and asses which were passing either on their way to or from Jerasalem, Greeks, Turks, Arabs, and men of other nations also passed in numbers. At length our caniage arrived, and on taking our seats, we found that our fellow-traveUers were the Eev, Denis Bersis, Axchimandret de la Mdtropole D'Atb^nes, and a Greek physician. Our way was along a road which, if not especiaUy constructed, was certainly considerably improved for the ser-vice of the Emperor of Austria on the occasion of his visit a few years ago to Jerusalera. This road is now very rough and uneven. Shortly after lea-ving Jaffa we passed olive yards, vineyards, and orange groves. The road, too, was enclosed at intervals by thick-set hedge-rows of prickly fig trees, which were PALESTINE, 467 hea-vily laden with fruit. Proceeding onwards we traversed extensive and somewhat undiUating plains, many of which were in a high state of cultivation. On the one side we saw agricultural labourers who were busUy employed in threshUig gxain. Not, however, by means of flails, but by the feet of oxen. These aniraals were aU of them unmuzzled, and were being driven by the labourers over the sheaves of com, with which the threshing floor was thickly strewn. On the other side we saw shepherds tending large flocks of sheep and goats. Some time after the sun had set, we arrived at the viUage of Eamleh, which place is, in some respects, remarkable, ha-ving been the home of Joseph of Ariraathea, Driving through some nanow streets, consisting of houses buUt of stone, we stopped at the Greek convent, where we had been in-vited to pass the night, Eising early on the foUowing moming we explored the vUlage of Eamleh, or Arimathea, as it was forraerly caUed, and then resumed our joumey to Jerusalem. The track we pursued led us through districts which though wUd and raountainous, were ia sorae instances enUvened by -vineyards and olive yards. In due time we passed Emmaus, the -vUlage to which Christ walked in the company of two disciples after His resurrection. We also saw on our right hand Ornia, the place in the hUl-country to which Mary hastened after her inter-view with the angel, in order to salute her cousin EUzabeth, The hiUs, too, on which British troops, under the com mand of Eichard Cceur de Lion, were encamped during the Holy War, and Colonia, at one time a possession of the ancient Eomans, and a ragged hUl, the summit of which is crowned by an old fort, said to have been erected by Vespasian, all passed in re-view before us. In the aftemoon at four o'clock we obtained our first view of that ancient city over which the Prince of Peace had wept, within the waUs of which He had suffered every species of indignity, and beyond the gates of which He had expired as a victim on the cross for the sins of men. 2 H 2 468 PALESTINE, On entering its gates with our tenderest sensibUities awakened, we went on in-vitation to the Gxeek convent, which is a vexy laige institution, apd where we were most kindly leceived by the patiiaich. That part of the convent, which is especially legaided as the private apartments of the patii aich, rerainded us in raany respects of an English bishop's palace. The diawing loora is appioached by a raaible staU case, the balustrade of which is of glittering brass. On the waUs of the haU there are suspended several portraits in oUs of foimei , patiiaichs of the see of Jerasalem, sorae of these, as is the case with sinulai paintings in the episcopal resi dences in England, have an antiquated appeaiance, Aftei a long convexsation with the patiiaich, we were conducted to a weU-fumished sitting-ioora, to which an equally weU-fui- nished bed-ioom was attached, in oidei to obtain a little rest befoie dinnei. At seven o'clock we weie suraraoned to ac corapany the patiiaich to the lefectoiy, where we had the pleasuie of dining not only with hira, but also -with five Gieek bishops, two oi thiee pxofessois, and upwaids of sixty raonks. The patiiaich and bishops weie attUed in theii oidinaiy out-dooi episcopal lobes, whUe the raonks wore theii long black go-wns and high black hats. The dinnei, which consisted of pea soup, fried eggs, cheese, bxead, gxapes and -wine, was pieceded by a giace said by a deacon, and sup plemented by a blessing on the part of the patiiaich, Duiing dinnei, a monk, standing in a lostium, read aloud instinctive passages fiom the writings of an ancient Greek fathex, Aftei dinnei we had anothei agieeable conveisation with the patii aich, and judging from the raany iraportant questions which he asked us in legaid to the Chinese, we concluded that he had an inteiest in the weffaie of that gieat and singulai people. On the following raoming we -visited the chuxch of the Holy Sepulchre, Befoie, howevei, we entei upon a detailed description of the vaxious things which we saw in this chuich, let us fumish oui leadeis with a brief historical sketch of the edifice. We gathex, then, fxora the -wxitings of Eusebius, PALESTINE, 469 that the Erapeioi Constantine ha-ving anived at the conclu sion (but by what piocess of reasoning we are quite at a loss to iraagine) that a ceitain lock-bound cavem above which a temple in honoui of Venus had been erected by Hadrian, was none othei place than the Holy Sepulchre, resolved to remove the Pagan shrine, and to expose the torab as an object worthy of the adoration of Christians of aU lands. He at the sarae tirae purposed to erect over the hallowed site a temple of the gieatest magnificence. These lofty puiposes on the part of Constantine were aU leaUsed A,D, 335. Sublunaiy things, howevei, axe tiansitoiy ; and the magnificent pUe of Constantine pioved no exception to this univeisal rale ; foi, two hundred and seventy-nine yeais aftei its dedication by him to the sei-vice of God, it was destioyed by file, in obedience to the coraraands of Chosroes II, who, at the head of a laige airay, consisting of Peisians and Jews, appeared in Jeiusalera a.d, 614, Fiora this bed of rains anothei stiuctuie soon arose, which reraained intact untU 1010, when it was entUely destioyed by oidei of CaUph el- Hakim, It was leconstiucted, but not in a veiy imposing style, 1048, and in this state it was found by the Crasadeis on theU capture of the city, 1099, In 1808 it was again destxoyed by fixe, but ia 1810 sprang once more from its bed of ashes. This chuich, which is undei the guaidianship of the Tuikish Govemment, is legaided as the chuich of the Greeks, though -within its waUs Latins, Airaenians, Syrians, and Copts have altars. On entering this edifice, held in estimation by many as the "church of churches," oux attention was diiected to a laxge maible slab, Aiound this we obseived votaries kneeling, and were infoimed it was the " stone of unction," on which the bioken body of oui Loid was washed and prepared foi burial, Mo-ving onwaids, we wexe shown the spot on which Maiy was supposed to have stood whUe the body of hex son was being anointed, Enteiing the great nave of the building which is cUculax in foxm, enclosed by a colonnade and sui mounted by a lofty dome, we were invited to entex a small 470 PALESTINE, chapel constiucted of raaible, and containing the tomb in which tiadition declaies the Eedeemei of the Woild lay. The sepulchre consists of two apartraents, the fiist of these contains a stone which devotees are assured is the iden tical stone by which the sepulchie was coveied, while the othei holds a maible saicophagus, in which, it is stated, though appaiently without any authoiity, the body bf Chiist was enclosed. On withdia-wing fiom this sacied spot, the tombs of Melchisedec, Joseph of Arimathea, and Nicodemus were pointed out to us. Thence we went to the place whexe Maiy Magdalene addressed Chiist, supposing HUn to be the gaidenei, and pioceeding stUl furthei, we enteied the Latin chuich, wherein, at the time of oux visit, sei-vice was being exquisitely lendeied. In the right hand coinei of this chuich some pUgrims were kissing a Malacca cane, which they had previously pushed through a smaU aperture in the panels of the church, and struck against a hard substance. On raaking inquiries as to the cause of this singular cereraony, we learned that behind the panels stood the " pUlai of flageUation,'' or the coluran to which Christ was bound when scourged, and that it was esteeraed an act of great devotion on the part of the faithful, not only to touch the pUlar, but also to kiss the point of the cane by which they had touched it Here, too, we saw the " Chapel of the Apparition," or the place where Christ is said to have revealed Himseff to His mothex aftei His lesunection. One of the objects of inteiest in this chapel is a laige swoid, said to have been the pioperty of Geoffrey de BouiUon, The tomb of this distinguished crusader, and that of his brother Baldwin, we had just visited with great ¦ interest, and now we were glad to inspect the sword which in many a fierce struggle had been so successfuUy wielded by Geoffrey, In reference to the torabs of these -nraniors, we may observe that the epitaphs inscribed upon them read as follows : — PALESTINE. 471 " Hic jacet inclytus dux Godefridus de BuUon, qui totam istam terram ac — Quisi-vit cultui Christiano cujus anUna. Eegnit cum Christo, Amen," " Eex Balduinus, Judas alter Machabeus Spes Patriae, Vigor Ecclesise, VUtus utriusquse, Quem fornudabant, cui dona tributa ferebant Caedar et Egjrptus, Dan as horaicid Daraascus, Pro Dolor ! In modico clauditer hoc tumulo." Thence we proceeded to the reputed spot from which the earth of which Adara was forraed was taken. As the sup posed centre of the globe, this place is caUed the " navel of the world." We now hastened to the " Chapel of Bonds," or the place where Christ was bound by the chief priests and elders of the people ; to the " Chapel of Mocking," or the spot where the soldiers of the Eoraan govemor raocked Hira ; to the " Chapel of the Crown of Thorns," or the place where the soldiers crueUy crowned Hira with thorns (and here we may observe was pointed out to us the identical stone upon which He sat during this insulting cereraony) ; and to the " Chapel of the Parting of Garraents," where the soldiers cast lots for His vestments. We now descended a long fiight of stone steps in order to visit the Chapel of St, Helena and that of the penitent thief. Descending stUl further, we entered a cavern, which is styled the Chapel of the Cross, and where, it is asserted, the veritable cross on which Christ died was found by the Empress Helena, It is affirmed that this royal lady, who was the mother of Constantine, had been directed by Divine agency, when on a pUgrimage to Jerusalera, to visit this very spot, and to raake excavations vrith the certainty of finding the trae cross. This search was eventuaUy rewarded by the discovery of three crosses. Helena, however, being quite at a loss to ascertain which of the three crosses was the one on which Christ had died, was strongly advised by a bishop named Macarius to 472 PALESTINE. present them in rotation to a noble lady residing in Jerusa lem, and who at the time was declared by her physicians to be " sick unto death," The first cross which was submitted to the gaze of this dying woman effected no good results ; nor was the second raore successful. The third, however, was no sooner seen by the invaUd than she arose frora her bed in perfect health, and thus this cross was declared to be the true one. As we were quitting these cavernous chapels, oux atten tion was called to a seat on which Helena is said to have sat when superintending the excavations which brought to Ught the great altar on which a sinless -victira had been sacrificed as an atoneraent fox the sins of raen. We now visited the gaUexy encixcUng the dome of the rotunda, whence we had a fine -view of the exterior waUs of the Mdicula,, or smaU chapel which covers the site of the Holy Sepulchre. Descending from this gallery, which is en closed by a balustrade of ornamental iron-work, we passed on to Calvary. It is quite contiguous to the church, and is approached by a flight of steps. Here we saw not only the holes in which it is alleged the crosses were set, but also the fissure caused by the rending of the rock. It is maintained that Adam was buried here, and that when the rock was rent in twain the blood of Christ actuaUy flowed through the fissure upon the bones of that great progenitor of raen. We ourselves saw a huraan skuU in the rent, but faUed to ascer tain whether or not it is represented to poor deluded pUgrims as the identical skuU of the first man. Having seen the place where the mother of Jesus, Mary the -wffe of Cleophas, and Mary Magdalene are said to have stood by the cross, we returned to our quarters at the Greek convent Eeflecting there on the various objects which had come undex oux notice on the occasion of oux -visit to the Chuxch of the Holy Sepulchie, we were constxained to con clude that raany of the things we had seen savoured greatly of foUy, and were consequently calculated not only to mis lead pilgrims and devotees who blindly rely on such irrational PALESTINE, 473 representations, but also to render reUgion ridiculous in the eyes of enUghtened traveUers, and to sweU the ranks of infideUty. Eesuming our explorations of the city, we -visited the Armenian church of St. Jaraes, and the convent which is attached thereto. This church, though not very spacious, is in many respects deserving of inspection. The lower parts of the inner waUs of the nave, and of the piUars also, by which the roof of the nave is supported, are inlaid with slabs of fine porcelain, whUe the upper portions of these same waUs and colurans are disfigured with badly painted portraits of saints and prelates. Thxee private chapels standing on the left side of the nave axe appioached by gates which are inlaid -with tortoise-sheU and raothex-of-peaxl. Fuithei, the walls of the laigest of these thiee chapels aie omaraented with fine porcelain slabs. In a spacious chantiy, occupying a position on the right side of the nave, thxee stones axe caiefuUy pie served as sacied leUcs. They were biought respectively fxom Mounts Sinai and Tabox, and fxora the bed of the Eivex Joxdan, and are kept in a recess caiefuUy enclosed by a dooi of lattice-woik of steel wire. There is a ciiculai hole, how evei, in this dooiway, thiough which pilgriras and otheis are peimitted to thrust theii aims in oidei to touch these leUcs, Many of the faithful were so engaged on the occasion of oui visit to this chuich, and we observed that each, on withdraw ing his hand, imprinted a Mss upon it. Having inspected a chaii on which tradition declaies St James was accustomed to sit, and ha-ving stood on the spot whexe that blessed saint and apostle was martyred, we with drew from the church, and xepaUed to the closely adjoining Armenian convent The inspection of this institution, of its seminary, its printing office, its museura, its gardens, and its extensive buUdings for the reception of pUgriras gratified us. Thence we went to the Syrian church and convent of St Mark; this, according to uncertain tradition, was the house to which St, Peter hastened on his rairaculous Ubera tion from prison by an angel of the Lord, The door of this 474 PALESTINE; church, was pointed out to us by a Syrian priest as the very identical door at which St. Peter knocked on that raeraorable occasion in order to gain adraission, and in obedience to which suraraons Eboda went to hearken. The priest, on percei-ving oux increduUty in regard to his statement xespecting this doox, lost inteiest in us as tourists, and studiously withheld from us othei infoimation which it was in his powei to irapait Having subsequently visited the Abyssinian convent and Copt chuxch, whexe we saw the weU ox pool of St, Helena, which is about sixty feet long and thiity bioad, and is nevei with out a supply of excellent watei, we walked to the convent and chuich of the Holy Cross, situated at a distance of a mUe and a haff from Jerasalem, The convent is very laige, and leserables, owing to its style of architecture, an old castle or fortification. Within its walls several youths receive an ex ceUent education in every branch of learning. The church, an ancient buUding, presents a soraewhat neglected and dUapidated appearance. Its walls are disfigured by indifferent paintings, many of these are Ulustrations of events in the life of St George. Pro-vided with Ughted tapers, we entered, through a doorway on the left side of the nave, a subtenanean passage, and had pointed to us the spot where grew the tree of which it ie said the trae cross was raade. On quitting this convent and church we retumed to Jerusalera, and imme diately enteied upon an inspection of its principal synagogues. As it was Saturday, and the anniveisaiy also of the Great Day of Atonement, these various places of piayei weie UteiaUy cxowded with Je-wish woishippexs. Of the many synagogues we visited on this occasion, one was subtenanean, xesembUng in aichitectuial design the cxypt of a Chxistian chuich. Here we saw a copy of the Pentateuch, and one also of the books of the piophets, each being flve hundred yeais old. They were of couise not printed, but written copies, and one of them possessed foot notes, which weie -wxitten in so sraaU a hand, and in a style so arabesque, as to resemble illurainated boxdexs. We next -visited, undex the auspices of H,B.M, Consul PALESTINE, 475 (who kindly appointed a coivass and sorae Tuikish soldieis to accompany us), the Mosque of Oraar This supeib building, erected upon the site of Soloraon's Teraple, is of gieat extent, and is suimounted by a dorae which, in point of gxace and syraraetiy, is not to be surpassed. It is coveied in some parts with poicelain tiles of bright colouis, and in othexs with maible slabs of vaiious hues and devices, and is suppoited by four veiy stiong pieis and twelve aiches, resting on lofty colurans. Beneath this raagnificent dorae is the gieat and inegulaily shaped lock caUed Sakhaiah, which is legaided not only by Mohararaedans but by Jews also, as a raost sacred relic of ancient tiraes. The veneiation in which this stone is held by the Je-ws arises fiora the fact that the Eab- bins declaie that it is the veiy lock upon which Jacob rested his weaiy head (Gen, xxviii, 17, 22), that it was upon it Abra ham offered up Isaac, that it constituted the thieshing flooi of Araunah the Jehu site, and was the holy of hoUes in the teraple of Soloraon. The Mohararaedans, on theU part, aflfiira that this rock feU fiom heaven about the time that the spirit of piophecy was irapaited to raan, and that it was fiom its summit Mahomet ascended to the seventh heavens. In proof, as it weie, of this lattei stateraent, they point out not only an irapression in the xock of the piints of the feet of the piophet, but also irapiessions of the angel Gabriel's hands, which were raade in a successful atterapt on the part of that angeUc raessengei to withhold the rock fiora ascending, as it endeavoured to • do, with the prophet. Above this rock is suspended a canopy of crirason coloured sUk, and encircUng it there is an iron railing elaborately -wrought and gUded, Beneath it there is a sraaU cavern, called the " Noble Cave." The sides of this gxotto " axe plasteied in oxdei to produce the impression that this iraraense lock is novj suppoited by a vaU of masoniy. They aUege that it is leaUy sustained by nothing, and this waU was merely placed here to deceive pUgxims, on account of fatal accidents to peisons who had gone below and found themselves beneath such an immense tmsustained xock." 476 PALESTINE. The Mohararaedan guides who went with us into this cavem not only stated that thexe was a vacuum beyond, but sought to impiess the ^tiuth of this stateraent on oui rainds by a veiy substantial pxoof. Thus they stxuck the noxthem side of the cavem which, by way of response, immediately emitted a hoUow sound. In the centie of the flooi there is placed a raaible slab, said to covei the raouth of the " WeU of Souls." It is furthex stated in xegaid to this weU, that at one time it was kept open in oidei that peisons might hold inteicouise -with the souls of the departed. Owing, however, to the sad revelations ever and anon made, affecting the honour of the Uving, it was deemed necessai-y to close it. In each corner of the cavern there is a lecess cut in the soUd rock, and upon enquUing into the histoiy of these arti ficial formations, we were told that they were the "retreats" in which Abrahara, Elijah, Da-vid, and Soloraon were aeeus toraed to pray. On qiUtting this cavern we were in-vited to exaraine a slab of green raarble, we were assured that this was forraerly naUed to the ground by eighteen sUver naUs, three of which stUl reraain in theU original position. Our guides continuing their nanation, further informed us that at the close of each of the past fifteen pexiods of Mohammedan histoiy one naU had disappeaxed, and that on the last of the thxee leraaining ones taking its fiight, the end of aU things ¦wiU be nigh at hand. Giving OUI attention in the next instance to the beautfful cupola, 01 " Dome of the Chain," as it is styled, and which is suppoited by seventeen slendex raaible columns, we faUed not to have oui admUation excited in the highest degiee. It is in trath magnificent, and held in high veneration by Moham medans, not, howevei, on account of its raagnificence, but on the xeflection that it is heie at the last gieat day justice -will be administeied to aU men by Him who alone has a right to judge the worid. Having visited the spot wheie St Geoige, the pation saint of England, is said to have knelt in piayei — Uaving seen the shield of Mahoraet — and having been assuied by OUI guides that the mosque contained in addition to PALESTINE, 477 Mahoraet's shield, othex xeUcs, which we could not be pei mitted to see, such as the pomegranates of David, the bUds of Solomon, the saddle of the hoise Boiak, and an original copy of the Koran, we withdtew, and pioceeded to the neigh- bouiiag mosque of el-Aksa, As we weie diiectiag oux steps along a bioad and weU-paved pathway, towaids the mosque in question, we obseived a pulpit of the most perfect style of Saiacenic aichitectuie, standing in the open air It is heie that piayeis are daUy offeied foi the weffaie of the Sultan. We also noticed at no great distance fxom this pulpit a raaible fountain, at which foiraeily — foi it is now diy — the faithful were aeeustoraed to wash before entering the raosque, Undei this fountain theie is a laige subtenanean cistein into which, at one tirae, watei from the Pools of Solomon was conveyed. The raosque el-Aksa was once a Christian chuich, and was buUt and dedicated to St Maiy by Justinian, It is in the foira of a paiaUelogiara, is two bundled and eighty feet in length, a hundxed and eighty-thxee in bieadth, and suiraounted by a dorae, which is alraost as high as that of the Mosque of Oraai, We faUed ia asceitaining the date when it was converted by the Mohammedans into a mosque. We know, howevei, that on the capture of Jerasalem by the Ciusadeis, it once more became a Christian chuich, and that within its precincts, so says Hovenden, the muideieis of Thoraas k Becket Ue intened, " Hic jacet raiseii qui raaity- lizaveiunt beatum Thoraara, Aichiepiscopura Cantuaiiensura," On enteiing this buUding oui attention was diiected to the " WeU of the Leaf," and to a pulpit consisting of caived cedai wood, inlaid with ivoiy. It was raade in obedience to the comraands of Muieddin, and placed in the raosque aftei his death by Saladin, his successor Not fai from this pulpit is pointed out the spot whexe Omax is said to have knelt in prayer Aftex a peep into the long ciypt of this chuich we went to the mosque caUed Sidna Issa, oi the mosque of " Oui Loxd Jesus.'' It is a small edifice surmounted by a dome, and occupies a position in the south-east corner of the Haram, In 478 PALESTINE. a lower oi subtenanean loora of this Mohararaedan house of prayer, there is a raarble trough placed under a canopy ; pU griras are assured that this was the cradle of the infant Jesus. We next descended into the vaults, where we obtained a view of the massive piers and arches which support the roof of the cistern of the ancient temple. Ascending frora these dark places of the earth, we repaired to the faraous Golden Gate of the city. It occupies a position in the eastem waU of the teraple area, and was forraerly caUed by the Arabs Bab er-Eahmeh, or " Gate of Mercy," The narae Golden Gate appears to have been given to it on the supposition that it was connected -with one of the gold-covered gates of the ancient teraple. The style of architecture is evidently Eoraan, and an opinion has consequently been entertained that it belonged at one period of its history to the area in which stood the teraple erected by Hadrian in honour of Jupiter, It is now waUed up, but for what definite reason no one is apparently in a position to explain. It is a some what singular fact that when the Crusaders were in posses sion of the city, this same gate, though not waUed up, was kept closed, and only opened once a year, on Palm Sunday, in coraraeraoration of our Lord's triuraphal entry through it to the teraple. The Pool of Hezekiah, situated at no great distance from the Greek convent where we were staying, next carae under our obseivation. It is about one hundred and fifty-two feet long, and one hundred and twenty-six feet broad, and con tains a large supply of water, A reference to this ancient pool, which is in the highway of the Fuller's Field, is made in 2 Kings, chap, x-viii, v. 17. From this pool we walked to that which bears the narae of the " Lower Pool of Gihon," It is situated at a short distance beyond the Jaffa Gate, and though one of the largest of the reservoirs of which Jerusalem can boast, it is by no means the most serviceable, inasmuch as it is often quite dry. Proceeding a short way beyond this pool, we anived at PALESTINE, 479 that which is styled the " Upper Pool of Gihon." It is three hundred and fifteen feet in length, and two hundred and eight in breadth, and its waters are conveyed to Birket el-Hamraan by raeans of an ordinary trench. It is now surrounded by a Mohararaedan ceraetery, which we apprehend cannot contri bute to the purity of its waters. As we were leaving this pool, a Turkish funeral procession was entering the adjoining cemetery. It consisted of male and female mourners, and was headed by two men, each of whora carried in his hand a branch of a palra tree. As a green paU covered the coffin, we concluded the dead raan to have been a descendant of the prophet Mahoraet. The Pool of Bethesda, or " Place of Mercy," though far reraoved from the " Upper Pool of Gihon," was the object of interest coming next under our notice. It is situated in close proximity to St, Stephen's Gate, and was the resort of sick persons, upon one of whom Christ graciously pei foimed the healing nuiacle St John lecoided in the 5th chaptei of St John's gospel. It is now a diy basin, measuring three hundred and sixty feet in length, one hundred and thUty in breadth, and seventy-five in depth. At the south west corner there are two lofty arched vaults or passages ; these are regarded by the raonks as two of the five porches by which the pool was forraerly approached. But though many beUeve and contend that this pool is the Bethesda of Scripture, there are others who argue that on a careful exami nation of its stracture there is no evidence whatever to sup port such an opinion. Indeed, Dr, Barclay, whose knowledge of Jerusalem cannot be doubted, speaks as foUows in regard to it, ""That this immense trench," he says, "which we see from its design was constructed as a defence to Antonia, can be Bethesda, is an idea too absurd and iraprobable to need formal refutation," It would appear, therefore, to the minds of some, that the true Bethesda has yet to be discovered. The " CEenaculum," where, according to tradition, the last Passover was kept, and the Lord's Supper instituted, was the place to which we next repaired. It is a large upper roora. 480 PALESTINE. utterly devoid of fumiture, and having in many respects an uncared-for appearance. Beneath it is the supposed torab of Da-vid, We were perraitted to see the catafalque by which it is covexed, but neithei artful puisuasion noi the offei of raoney could pievail upon the custodian to adrait us into the vault containing the coffin, Passiug thiough the Zion Gate, we visited the Palace of Caiaphas, the High Piiest, It is now a convent, the pro perty of Armenian priests, and contains, accoiding to theix statements, ceitain objects of inteiest. Thus, they dUected OUI attention to a laxge stone undex the altai, which they raaintained was the veritable one that enclosed the entrance to Christ's sepulchie. This statement was at vaiiance with one pie-viously made to us on the occasion of oui visit to the Chuich of the Holy Sepulchre, where we had also been sho-wn a stone and been infoimed it was the vexy one loUed back flora the mouth of the tomb by the angel on the moming of Christ's lesunection. We were now in addition invited to inspect a smaU ceU, in which we weie told oui blessed Loid was irapiisoned untU the houi when he was biought befoie the Eoraan govemoi. It was here, too, that St Petei denied his Loid three times. On quitting this convent, foiraeily the palace of Caiaphas, we went to the Gieek cemeteiy, which had a veiy neglected appeaiance, and thence to the EngUsh cemeteiy, in which, araongst othei torabs, we saw one containing the remains of Dr Alexander, the first AngUcan bishop of Jerasalem, A row of alms-houses, erected by that great phUanthropist, Sir Moses Montefiore, for the benefit of indigent Jews, next attracted our attention. On re-entering the city by the Jaffa Gate, we -visited the Tower of David, or Tower of Hippicus, as it is more pro perly styled. On entering this ancient tower, its inmates, a few Turkish soldiers, received us kindly, and conducted us over aU that now reraains of it, for tirae, the consuraer of aU things, not to speak of the devastating effects of frequent wars, has reduced its former dimensions very considerably. PALESTINE. 481 Yet the portions of it which are left, stand not only as a raonuraent of its antiquity, but also of its past strength and weU-earned renown. Oftentiraes have iraplements of destruc tion been hurled against its walls on the part of enemies, -with the view of razing it to the ground, but despite all these and other adverse cUcumstances, it is stiU the Tower of Hip picus. We raay add that raany persons suppose it was frora the. summit of this tower David beheld the fair beauties of Bathsheba. Quitting the Hippie Tower, we went to the Mogrebin quarter of the city, and approached by a short passage to a portion of the Teraple waU, at the base of which not less than three or four hundred Jews were standing, and earnestly praying in a loud tone of voice for the advent of the Messiah. Many of thera, too, were weeping bitterly, and as ff in great anguish of mind, beating hea-vUy upon their breasts. Several finishing their prayers had recourse to theu Bibles, and read in a loud tone of voice appropriate passages frora the Psalras of Da-vid. This place, owing to the fact of its being enclosed on one side by the old Teraple waU, is regarded by the Jews as the raost sacred place to which they are permitted by their Mohararaedan rulers to have access, and, consequently, every Friday aftemoon they resort to it for the purposes already mentioned. It is not inaptly styled the " WaiUng Place of the Jews." On the foUowing day, after a ramble through the bread, fruit, vegetable, meat, medicine, shoe, cloth, copper, gold, and sUver bazaars, each of which is in the form of an arcade, and very oriental in style, we passed along the " Via Dolorosa," or the path the Sa-viour trod when on His way frora the palace of Pilate to Calvary. We had not gone very far along this street, so closely connected with the most pain ful associations, when our attention was directed to a build ing said to have been the Palace of Pontius Pilate. En tering this place, which is now regarded as one of great sacredness, we observed recorded above the doorway of an inner room the foUo-wing inscription : — 2 I 482 PALESTINE. " Ego in flageUa paratus sura," Eesuraing our journey along the " Via Dolorosa," we at length left the city by the gate of St Stephen, and after exaraining the plot of ground on which St, Stephen is supposed to have suffered martyr- dora, we crossed the Brook Kedron, and entered the Garden of Gethseraane, It is of very Umited extent, is enclosed by a waU which is in the forra of a paraUelograra, and contains a few very old olive trees. In niches which are formed at frequent intervals in the wall, are placed figures, in bas relief, representations of the sufferings of our blessed Lord, On the waU of a smaU recess, which is styled the " Grotto of Christ's Agony," we noticed the foUowing Latin inscrip tion : — " Hic sudor ejus factus est Sicut guttse sanguinis decurrentis in terram." After a visit to the reputed torab of the Virgin Mary, we raade the ascent of Mount OUvet, having the best and noblest feelings of our nature aroused to the highest pitch of Uiterest, The raount is weU bestudded with oUve trees, several of which have such a very gnarled and antiquated appearance, as alraost to lead the beholder to suppose that they were growing in the days of our Saviour, After an ascent of raany feet, we xeached the raost elegant stone chuxch belonging to the Latin Chiistians, covering a giotto, in which it is said Chiist taught His disciples the Loid's piayei. The peristyle in front of this church, is quite new, and is one of the most beau tiful structures of the kind which we have as yet seen. It is enclosed on each side by a conidor, on the waUs are painted in most legible characters the Lord's prayer in almost every known language of the earth. In a recess formed in one of the conidors of the peristyle is a sepulchre, in which it is intended that the remains of AureUe de Bossi, Princesse De La Tour D'Auvergne, Duchesse De BouUlon — the foun dress and benefactress of the church — shaU be interred. Sur mounting the sepulchre there is a magnificent monuraent, consisting of a stone pUnth, on which is placed in statuary PALESTINE, 483 of white marble a recumbent figure of the princess. The inscription recorded on the pUnth reads as follows : — " AuxeUe de Bossi, Piincesse De La Toux D'Auvexgne, Duchesse De BouUlon, a donn^ k la Fiance, et Eestitue au culte Chxetienne Sanctuaire Venere Ou N.S, Jesus Christ a En Seigne Le Pater Noster a ses Disciples. EUe Y a Fait Eriger ce monument. Que Le Dieu Tout Puissant La Comble De Ses Benedictions dans le Teraps et dans L'Eternitd, Ainsi SoU II," Ascending stUl higher, we reached the mosque of Jebl Tiir, in which is contained not only the cave of Palagius, but also a stone sarcophagus of great antiquity. It is maintained by Eastern Christians that it encloses the body of Margarita, a courtezan of Antioch, who on embracing the Christian faith resided here as a nun under the assuraed narae of Pelagia, The Jews, however, contend that it is the tomb of Huldah, the prophetess, whUe the Mohamraedans venerate it as the last resting place of one of theU saints, Frora the top of the minaret of this raosque, we had, the day being bright and clear, a very commanding view of the Dead Sea, the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and the city of Jerusalem, After wandering for some time on the summit of this most interesting mount, and ha-ving seen the reputed spot on which Christ stood when He wept over Jerusalem, the place also from which He ascended to heaven, we entered a series of long sub terranean passages. These are caverns containing sepulchres, many, ff not aU, of which have evidently been opened, and the coffins formerly deposited in them reraoved, and no longer to be found. On lea-ving these catacorabs, we entered the VaUey of Jehoshaphat, where we saw the torabs of Absalora, Zachariah, St Jaraes, and Jehoshaphat, The raeraory of Absalora, owing to the rebeUious acts of which he was guilty towards his father is raanifestly held in great conterapt both by Jews and Mohammedans, Thus aU who pass by his tomb throw stones at it to mark theU disapprobation of his unfiUal conduct. 2 I 2 484 PALESTINE. Passing through this vaUey, along the banks of the Brook Kedron, we reached the " WeU of the VUgin Mary," from which some women were drawing water. Afterwards we visited the " Pool of SUoara," and that styled the " Pool of Joab " or " Neheraiah," a cavern in which it is said the apostles sought safety after the crucifixion of our Lord, known in consequence as the Latibulara Apostolorura, or the " Ee treat of the Apostles," The Aceldema, a huge pit into which formerly the dead bodies of strangers were cast, did not escape our observation. Nor did the raany ancient cavernous sepulchres by which it is surrounded, and at one period of theU history not siraply receptacles for the dead, but also the haunts of deraoniacal persons, faU to interest us. In an inner charaber of one of these torabs a savage pariah dog for some moments fiercely disputed our entrance. On gaining admission we discovered that she had young ones, but they were located in a recess, tbe aperture of which was so sraaU as to preclude the possibiUty of our reaching them. The floors of several of these ancient sepulchres were stre-wn with the bones of oxen and sheep, conveyed thither doubtlessly by pariah dogs and jackals. As we were -withdrawing frora our exploration of this ancient necropoUs, four lepers carae and asked alras from us. TheU sudden appearance in this spot greatly reminded us of the dweUers in torabs in the days of our Lord. We now made the ascent of the " HiU of EvU CouncU," on the summit of which, it is asserted, Caiaphas had a subur ban residence, and where the Jews took councU and devised evU against the Son of God, We now proceeded through the Valley of Hinnom to the Jaffa Gate of the city. It was in this vaUey that chUdren were at one period of Jerusalem's history offered in sacrifice to Moloch, These human victims were thro-wn into the arras of a heated brazen statue of the god frora which they feU, it is supposed, into a blazing fur nace at his feet, and so perished. It was with the -view of rendering this place odious in the estiraation of all Jews, but raore e_speciaUy so in the opinion of those who had idolatrous PALESTINE, 485 proclivities, that the good king Josiah defiled and polluted it by raaking it the receptacle of dead men's bones and every species of filth. On the foUowing day, leaving the city by the Damascus Gate, and forcing our way with some difficulty through a vast drove of camels resting near it, we entered the celebrated Cave of Bezetha, which we found to be of very great extent The dangers and difficulties, however, by which our explora tions of it were ever and anon beset, caused us to beat a retreat without having effected a thorough investigation of aU its nooks and corners. Thence we went to the Cave of Jere miah; owing to its wide entrance, it can be thoroughly explored without the aid of torches or flambeaux. A very aged Mohammedan hermit who resides here kindly under took to escort us through the cavern, and, in doing so, was very particular in directing our attention to the traditionary spot where the prophet Jereraiah during his supposed incar ceration in this cave was aeeustoraed to recUne. The base of the cavern at the tUne of our visit was raore or less flooded with water This circurastance, however, greatly added to the coup d'ceil, the water in question ha-ving aU the appear ance of a lake in rainiature. Going frora this place on our way to Kubr-el-Moluk, or the Tombs of the Kings, we passed some very large ash heaps which credulous pUgriras and tourists believe are forraed of ashes, removed at sundry times, during reraote ages, frora the altar of burnt offering which stood in the Temple of Solomon. It requires, we think, but very Uttle argument to prove that they are in reality the ash pits, so to speak, of the soap manu factories of the city, the sacred ashes of the temple having been deposited in what is terraed the "Ashes VaUey of Kedron." On arriving at Kubr-el-Moluk, the Tombs of the Kings, we were much gratifled by an exploration of the most exquisitely constructed catacombs we have as yet seen. The chambers constituting this charnel-house of kings are cut out of the solid rock, and are approached by a spacious and .sculptured doorway, which, though now rauch defaced by 486 PALESTINE. time, stUl retains weU-defined traces of its former grandeur. In the side waUs of these rooms are recesses, each of which is sufficiently large to contain a coffin. As these recesses run into the rock in a narrow, oven-Uke form, they are accessible only at one end. This, however, is not a general rule, as in other and neighbouring royal sepulchres by us inspected, the niches for the reception of coffins ran paraUel with the waUs. Several of these royal sepulchral caverns, designedly constructed of the most durable materials, have in the course of ages been opened, and doubtlessly plundered by ruthless men. Further, they afford in many instances the raost un mistakable e-vidence of the destructive effects of the hand of tirae ; and, consequently, irapress the mind of the beholder forcibly with the idea that they are not siraply the dUapi dated torabs of once powerful rulers, but monuments at the same tirae of the rapidly decaying nature of this world's glory. Ha-ving now visited aU the places of interest in and about the city of Jerusalera, we gave our attention to what raay not be inappropriately termed its outlying districts. Of these neighbouring localities, the first to which we dUected our steps was Bethany, the town of Mary and Martha, Here we had an opportunity of seeing the traditionary tomb of Lazarus, which, unlike the sepulchres we had previously -visited, resembles a natural cave rather than a chamber hewn out of the solid rock. We descended by means of a short flight of steps into the interior of this sepulchre, and so high was the roof as to adrait of our standing in an upright position. The ruins of the house in which Lazarus and his sisters resided were also pointed out to us. As we were retuming frora Bethany, we were accosted by a native woman, having fresh figs for sale. Being very hungiy we bought, evidently to the great satisfaction of this itinerant fruiterer, not only the fruit in question, but the basket in which it was contained. On ouX way to Bethle hem, we passed once more through the VaUey of Hinnom, and crossed the Plain of Eephaim, where David conquered the PhiUstines (2 Sara,, chap, v, 18 ; Josh,, chap, xv, 8). PALESTINE. 487 In passing, we caUed at the Greek Convent of Mar EUas, which, owing to its architectural design and great strength, reminded us more of a fortified baronial castle than a convent. Attached to this reUgious house there is a large chapel, con taining, amongst other things, t-n'o tombs of a somewhat ira posing appearance. Of these sarcophagi, the largest encloses the reraains of EUas, at one tirae Patriarch of Jerusalera, and the other those of a forraer Bishop of the Greek Church. Proceeding onwards, we reached the torab of Eachel, -wffe of the patriarch Jacob, where we halted for a short period, and on resuming oux joumey, quickly anived at Bethlehem, On enteiing this small but highly lenowned city of Judea, OUI attention was at once diiected to the weUs from which Da-vid on one memorable occasion drew water to quench his thUst The beautfful Church of St, Helena, and the Grotto of the Natf-vity, or the place in which the King of Kings was bom, were the objects of interest to which in the next instance we were naturaUy drawn. The subtenanean pas sages, containing tombs of Eusebius, Jerorae, Saint Paula, and her daughter Eustachia (not to forget the cavernous chamber in which Jerome wrote his learned works), aU carae under re- -view. On visiting the Grotto of Milk, a cave in the side of the rock, and in which the VUgin Mary is supposed to have suckled the infant Jesus, we found that frora its roof and waUs were suspended, in honoux of the Holy VUgin, euchaxis- tical offerings of wheat eaxs, WhUst we weie examining this cave, we saw sorae woraen, wha weie purchasing frora its custodian what appeared to be at first sight sraaU cUcular gingerbread cakes. A closer observation, however, of these edible wares revealed to us the fact that they were cakes composed of sand scraped from the roof or waUs of the grotto, 'and that they are held in great esteera on account of theU mUk-producing properties. Thus, superstitious native woraen, on finding, when nursing, that they have not sufficient mUk for the piopei nourishment of theU babes, mix portions of these sand cakes with theii oidinaiy food, in oidei that the want complained of may be suppUed. 488 PALESTINE, Proceeding a short distance beyond Bethlehem, we anived at the Grotto of Shepherds, or the place where the angelic messenger proclaimed to shepherds, when keeping watch over their flocks by night, that there was bom in the city of David a Saviour which was Christ the Loxd, On leaving this spot, we dixected oux couise to the Pools of Solomon, and passed on oui way thithei the vUlage of Uitas, and its weE cultivated lands and gardens. We also crossed on several occasions the aqueduct, thiough which watei flows with con sideiable rapidity fiora the pools in question to Jerasalem. Aftei a delightful ride of an houi and a half we reached the end of the Valley of Ethara, where we wexe gxatifled on be holding thiee immense leseivoiis, paitly hewn out of the soUd lock, and paitly enclosed by masoniy, and which from tirae imraeraoxial have been xegaided as the -woikmanship of Soloraon, They axe each upon a sepaiate level, one above the othei, and aie capable of containing a vast body of water SraaU channels lead fiora each of these tanks to the raain and tortuous aqueduct of which we have pieviously spoken. Neai to these pools theie stands a laige squaie castle, which has aU the appeaiance of having biaved the stoims of many centuries. One wiitei, in speaking of this ancient fortress, sug gests that in aU piobabUity U was eiected foi the piotection of these pools duiing the peiiod of the Holy Wax, and in suppoxt of this suggestion he adds that the eaily Crasaders, as is vexy weU known, suffeied, on theii neai approach to Jerasalem, great haidships, in consequence of the diffeient weUs ha-ving been poisoned by the enemy. The raoon having arisen in all hei brightness, we quitted this fort, where, by the kind peimission of its ganison — two Tuikish soldieis — we had dined, and, xeraounting oux hoises, lode towaj;ds Jeiusalera, Oui next joumey was to Eamah, the viUage in whi.ch Samuel Uved, died, and was buried, a^ which is situait^d at a distance of seven oi eight mUes fxora Jerasalem. The xoad which conducts the tiavellei thithei is xough and PALESTINE. 489 lugged to a great degiee. The countiy also which it intex- sects is appaiently, as legaxds stexUity, without a paxallel. As the vUlage of Eamah stands upon a high hiU, which is utteily devoid of tiees, it is seen from a considerable dis tance on aU sides. The dUapidated mosque which has been elected ovei the torab of Sarauel, and which ciowns the suramit of the hill, xesembles, when seen fxom afax, an old castle lathei than a house of piayei. The custodian of the mosque aUowed us to appioach the catafalque by which the tomb of Samuel is coveied, but, like the keepei of the tomb of David at Jerasalem, he would on no account suffex us to entei the sepulchre. The only other object of interest which this -viUage contains is an ancient and weU-constructed tank of exceUent water, Eeturning to Jerusalem by a different road, we passed three or four sraaU houses hewn out of the soUd rock, and in whieh some -wUd-looking Arabs were Uving. On entering these rock-formed dwelUngs, we observed some long-baneUed guns and other deadly weapons, which added not a Uttle, as we thought, to the naturaUy fierce looks of theU owners. These men were sitting, as it were, each under his own -vine, for the patches of land by which their mountain homes were surrounded having been brought by dint of hard labour into a state of jcultivation, were yielding grapes and oUves. We also passed two or three ancient ruins, one of which greatly resembled an AcelUema, The sight, however, which perhaps interested us raost of aU on this short journey, was three wUd deer, which reraained in view for sorae tirae, and greatly amused us by the agUe and graceful raanner with which they occasionaUy bounded along the rocky slopes of the hiUs, On the day foUowing our visit to Earaah, we attended the ordination of a priest in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The ceremony, which was of an imposing nature, was con ducted, in the presence of a large congregation, by the patriarch and five bishops, aU of whora wore robes of great magnificence. Of these six ecclesiastical dignitaries, the patriarch was the only pne who wore a mitxe, bishops of the 490 PALESTINE, Greek Chuich not being peimitted to appeax in such head dresses in the presence of a patriarch. At the close of this interesting cereraony, we took leave of our hospitable friends at the Greek convent, and set out for Leda or Lydda (Acts, ix, 35), which, though once a place of sorae iraportance, now sits soUtary, On our anival we hastened to a very fine old church, which has been recently repaired, and which, it is said, was buUt by Eichard, sumaraed Coeur de Lion, in honour of St, George, the patron saint of England, who, according to historic records, suffered raartjrrdom here. His reraains repose in the crypt of this church, and over the plot of ground which encloses them there stands a richly sculptured marble cenotaph. Continuing our journey to Jaffa, which we reached after a few hours' ride, we embarked for Beyrout, a Phoenician city, standing on high ground, and in close proximity to the sea shore. It feU frora the Saracens to Baldwin the First in 1111, but reverted to thera in 1187, In 1197 it once more became the possession of Christians, by whom it was held until the departure of the Crusaders from Palestine, In 1700 it feU into the hands of the Druses, and eventuaUy into those of the Turks, The European part of the town is very extensive, and intersected by broad and weU- raacadamised roads. It contains a handsorae Eoraan CathoUc Church and a Scotch Church, also of a soraewhat imposing appearance. In regard to educational estabUshments, it possesses apparently very great advantages. The native part of the town, owing to its truly oriental character, greatly interested us. The bazaars, aU of which are covered with vaulted roofs, are extensive, neat, and weU paved. The shops, too, are very nuraerous, aud, as is the case in almost aU other eastem cities which we have -visited, each trade or branch of industry is confined to its own locality. The objects of interest within easy reach of Beyxout axe the Dog xivei and pine foiest, Ee-erabaiking, we took oui last look at the shoies of the Holy Land, and pioceeded on oui voyage to Asia Minor 491 Chapter XIV, ^GEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOE. Cyprus — Ehodes — Cos — S amos — Chios — Smyrna — Ephesus — Sardis — Phila delphia, At Beyrout we erabarked on the steamer " Hungaria," and proceeded on our way to the Island of Cyprus, a place en deared to our meraory frora its association with St, Paul, who traveUed through the Island with St, Barnabas, a native of the place, as his corapanion. We debarked at one of its principal ports, Larnica, a town consisting only of a row of ' . houses and shops stretching along the sea shore, and posses sing nothing worthy of reraark. We were informed that the island is about 140 nules in length, and varies in breadth from five to 50 mUes, Eichard Coeur de Lion conquered Cyprus in 1191 from Isaac Comraenus, and gave it to Guy Lusignan, King of Jerusalein, by whose faraUy it was retained for three cen turies. In 1473 the EepubUc of Venice obtained possession of it, but in 1571 it was taken by Selira II, and it has ever since been under the dorainion of the Turks, The raajority of its present population belongs to the Greek Church. Cyprus was one of the first places out of Palestine where the doctrUies of Christianity were proraulgated, at ffi-st to Jews only, but on St, Paul's visit to the island, the Proconsul Sergius Paulus and other inhabitants were converted by the preaching of that apostle. Continuing our voyage, we at length reached the Island of Ehodes, whieh, frora the reraotest antiquity has been cele brated not only for its coraraercial enterprise and love of literature, but also for its salubrious cUraate and fertUity of soU. It is about 132 railes in circumference, and contains 492 ^GEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOE, two principal cities, naraely Ehodes and Lindus, On our arrival at the first-raentioned of these cities, we went at once to the place where the huge brazen iraage of Apollo, caUed Colossus, had forraerly stood. This statue, which was one of the seven wonders of the world, and which in its constraction occupied Chares, of Lindus, duiing a peiiod of twelve yeais, was elected ovei the mouth of the haiboui, and was so high (126 feet) that ships on entering or leaving the haven, saUed between its legs. It had not biaved more than fifty-six sum- raeis, when owing to the shock of an earthquake (b,c, 224) it feU to the giound, and was nevei le-constiucted. The fiag- mentaiy pieces of brass which had composed it were sold a,d. 672 by the Saiacens, who were then in possession of the island, to a Jewish meichant of Edessa, who on the comple tion of his purchase discovered that he had a load for 900 camels. This city was foi raany yeais the residence of the Knights of St. John of Jerasalem, having been piesented to them a,d. 1308 by the Empeioi Emraanuel. The remains of theii celC' biated fortress and stronghold, which sustained so many blockades and sieges, and which A.D, 1522 aftei a glorious xesistance of foux months, sunendexed to Solyraan the Mag- nificent, axe stUl to be seen. The voice of Chxistian piayei and praise, howevei, is no longei heaid within the waUs of the chuich of St. John, that edifice having been converted into a Mohararaedan raosque. The pleasure which we derived frora our visit to Ehodes was not a Uttle enhanced by the consideration that St. Paul caUed here when on his journey to Jerusalera, A.D. 58 (Acts, xxi, 1). Sailing alone the eastern coast of the .lEgean Sea, we passed very close to the Island of Cos, which is not far dis tant from the Guff of Halicarnassus. We obtained an excel lent view of the city of Cos and its sunounding districts, and were indeed struck with the many proofs afforded us in pass ing of the natural productiveness of the island. Orange, lemon, pomegranate, fig, aflji other fruit trees, grow in great ^GEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR, 493 profusion. And so extensive are its vineyards, mulberry plantations, and grain fields, as to render it famous for large suppUes of corn, sUk, and wine. As we were gazing with admiration on this beautfful island, we were reminded that it was the birth-place of the physician Hippocrates, who ren dered himseff so faraous at Athens during the great plague which -visited that city B,o, 429, Losing sight of Cos we passed in close proximity to the Island of Patmos, This latter place, rendered so faraous frora being the island to which St. John the Di-vine was banished, and where he -wrote the Apocalypse, is a rocky and bare island about fifteen mUes in circunfference. The town is situated upon a high rocky mountain rising imraediately frora the sea, and it, together with the Scala below upon the shore, consisting of some shops and houses, forras the only inhabited site of the island. On the top of the mountain is a monastery contain ing a good Ubrary of printed books and manuscripts. This monastery was buUt by the Emperor Alexis Coraraenes in 1117 to serve as a protection frora the CorsaUs, as well as to afford an asylum to the brothers of St John. A natural grotto situated between the monastery and the shore is pointed out to the -visitor as the place in which St John wrote the Eevelation, Passing Samos, the island which we next visited was that caUed Chios, or Scio. It is thUty mUes long frora north to south, and is rich in cotton, silk, fruit, and gum mastic, which last-mentioned product is in great demand as a raasticatory on the part of Turkish ladies. The chief city of the island, which in some respects reminded us of the city of Victoria, Hong-Kong, is also naraed Chios, It is the birth-place of the poet Ion, whose tragedies coraraanded such applause at Athens, and of the historian Theoporapus, Moreover, it was one of the seven iUustrious cities which disputed the right of having given bUth to Homer, the prince of poets : — " Smyrna, Chios, Colophon, Salamis, Ehodos, Argos, Athense, Orbis de patria certat Horaere, tua," 494 yEGEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR, We learn from the -writings of both ancient and modem historians that it has on many occasions been engaged in long protracted and bloody wars. The cruel massacre, how ever, of the majority of its inhabitants, and the enslavement of those who sur-vived by the Turks in 1822, forms not only one of the most deplorable incidents of the Greek War, but also one of the darkest pages of Chian history. Lea-ving Chios we soon arrived at Smyrna, a chief city of the pro-vince of Lydia, in Asia Minor, This city, which stands at the base of a range of mountains enclosing it on three sides, is noticed in the Apocalypse as one of the Seven Churches of Asia (Eev, i, 2 ; Eev. U, 8 — 11). It was de stroyed by an earthquake a.d. 177, but was rebuUt on a stUl more magnificent scale, under the auspices of Marcus Aure Uus. It has, however, suffered frora earthquakes, and since faUen from rauch of its former importance, though, owing to the convenience of its situation, it stiU raaintains its position as a great coramercial city, and the eraporiura of the Levantine trade. Its raonuraents of antiquity are not numerous. A ruined castle, which crowns the surarait of a high hUl, marks, it is said, the ancient site of the city. A visit to these ruins, together with theU antiquated and singularly constracted reservoU or tank, gave us much pleasure. The ruins of the teraple of Jupiter Acraeus, which was in the AcropoUs, the aqueduct, the stadium, the theatre, and the torab of Polycarp, all carae under review. Of the stadiura, the ground plot alone reraains, the seats and raarble decora tions with which it was at one tirae furnished being now no longer in situ. It is supposed that this was the place where Polycarp, the disciple of St, John, suffered martyrdom, A very ancient torab, in which it is asserted the reraains of Tantalus were buried, also received a visit frora us. It is a spacious vault, and consists of weU-constructed stone waUs, and an arched roof of the same material. Having explored the various antiquities which Srayina contains, we repaired to the Greek chuiches which are xespectively dedicated to St. Deraetrius, St. Geoige, and St, Photino. Of these thiee ^GEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR. 495 chuiches, each of which contains a raaible xood-scxeen, that of St Geoige pioved the raost inteiesting. On the panels of the lood-scieen of this chuich aie poitiaits of distinguished saints and Ulustrious bishops of the Gieek Chuich, togethei with vaiious lepiesentations of the Acts and sufferings of oui blessed Loid, This custora, howevei, is not unique, as in alraost aU Gieek chuiches poitiaits of saints aie attached to the lood-scieens. Votaries on enteiing the chuich lass, as a maik of devotion, one oi raoie of these poitiaits. The chuxch of St, Geoxge also contains a magnificent maible raonuraent in honoui of an opulent Gieek raeichant, who was naraed Constandine SpaitaU, Attached to this chuich there is a school, Ubiaiy, and a museura. In the lattei theie axe many antiquities, and a laxge collection of ancient and modem coins. On the occasion of a second visit which we paid to the chuich of St Demetiius, we had an opportunity affoided us of witnessing a Greek funeial. The coipse, that of a raan, which was moxe ox less exposed to view (the coffin being without its Ud), had a raost life-like appeaxance. It was attixed in a suit of black cloth, while the head was coveied with a red fez, and upon it there was placed a poitiait of the Viigin Maiy, AU the moumeis who weie piesent on the occasion stood aiound the coffin, each holding a lighted tapei in his right hand. The sei-vice in the chuich as peifoimed by the piiests was very simUax in its leading featuies to the funeral rites which aie obseived by the Chuich of Eome, So soon as it had been biought to a close, the piincipal officiating piiest gave the chief mouinei a diink of wine, and at the same tirae bade hira not to sonow, as do men without hope. The moumeis then approached the coffin in rotation, and kissed not only the corpse, but also the portrait of the saint which was resting upon it The coffin having at length been closed, was placed in a hearse and conveyed to a large Greek ceme tery which is situated at a short distance beyond the town, and there buried. And here we raay mention that at Smyrna, at aU events, the remains of Greeks are not suffered to re pose in the grave raore than a year after their interraent has 496 ^GEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR, taken place. At the end of that period of tirae they are ex- huraed, washed with wine, put into a bag, and then cast into a' pubUc mausoleum. This latter remark respecting the raauso leura appUes in a great raeasure to poorer faraUies only, as the wealthier citizens have private cenotaphs into which to de posit the ashes of their dead. The mosques were the next places of interest which we -visited. There was only one, however^ of these religious institutions which was at aU deserving of a ¦visit. It was very spacious, and on each side of the pulpit which it contained, was ananged a banner representing the supposed triuraph of Mohararaedanism over Judaism and Christianity. The great fast . of Eamadan, which was being strictly observed at the time of our visit to Palestine, carae to a close during our stay at Srayrna, and a festival which con sists in paying homage to the dead coniraenced. Thus, in aU the Mohararaedan ceraeteries, each of which, owing to the many taU cypress trees which grow therein, has a raost sombre appearance, we saw several Turks, men, woraen, and children, who were engaged in repairing their faraUy graves and pre senting offerings to the raanes of their ancestors, A stroU through the bazaars, which are very siraUar to those we have already described, interested us very much, and afforded us an opportunity of seeing and examining the excellent articles for the raanufacture of which Srayrna is faraous. As this city is also renowned for its fig raart we repaired thither, and found in two or three fig warehouses which we inspected raany labourers engaged in packing figs in druras or boxes, with a view to their transraission to England and other European countries. Each labourer had by his side a smaU wooden vessel containing salt water, and into which he fre quently dipped his fingers in order to free them from the saccharine matter which they had gathered from handUng the figs. The leaves, too, which they placed between each layer of figs, were, previous to their being applied in the manner described, dipped in the same vessels of salt watex. On with diawing fiom these fig warehouses, we enteied an estabUsh ment in which raisins axe piepared. The floois of the vaxious TKGEAN SEA AND ASI.V MINOR. 497 chambeis constituting this buUding weie coveied to such a degiee and in such a mannei with heaps of raisins, as to leraind us of a vast gianaiy well stocked with giain. As Srayma is also faraous foi its bieed of leeches, though not to the same extent as in foiraei yeaxs, we visited sorae leech tanks which axe contained in the gaiden of Mi, Pettiino. The tanks in which these useful cieatuies aie bied and leaied, reserable oidinaiy ponds of water The bed of each tank is made to pioduce a ciop of thick giass oi weeds in which, moie paiticulaily duiing the wintei, the leeches pass much of theU time. On the occasion of our visit to these tanks, the man who had charge of them caught several of the leeches by the adoption of the foUowing simple expedient. A board covered on each side with thick flannel, was cast on the surface of the waters, where it was suffered to remain for a few minutes. On being withdrawn, we discovered that its lower side was corapletely covered with leeches, which were at once removed and made ready for exportation. During the couise of this day, the shock of an earthquake was felt at Srayma, which, owing to its severity, gieatly startled the citizens. It was, howevei, suipassed by a siraUai event which occuned on the following day. We weie sitting in the Hotel des Deux Auguste at the tirae of this second earthquake, and so -violently were the waUs and lafteis of the buUding shaken, that, foi thiee oi foui seconds, it ap pealed to us as if the whole fabxic would faU to the ground. We had previously, in the course of our joumeyings in foreign lands, experienced the shock of six or seven earth quakes ; they were, however, mild in comparison with the one to which we have just refened. Having visited aU the sights of Smyrna, we went to Ephesus, where we were much gratified, not only by the sacred and classical associations of the place, but also by the many objects of antiquity for which that city is so justly renowned. It is situated at a distance of sixty English mUes frora Smyrna. The joumey, however, was easUy per forraed as there is a raUway by which these cities are con- 2 K 498 ^GEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOE. nected. As we traveUed along this line, seated in a first class carriage, we naturaUy contrasted the comforts which attended our journey with the discomforts which St. Paul raust have experienced when he -visited this and many of the neighbouring towns. On alighting frora the train at Ephesus, we were ac costed by the late Mr Wood's celebrated dragoraan, " George," under whose auspices we at once entered upon the explora tions of this ancient city. The first object of interest to which our attention was directed, was a ruined aqueduct, the fragraentary portions of which Ue on each side of the line of raUway. This aqueduct, we were inforraed, was built, in a great raeasure, with blocks of white raarble brought frora the temple of Diana. If the traveUer's observation be not particularly drawn to the ruins of the aqueduct, which Ue on the left side of the railway, he is apt to miss the finer portion of thera. In our case, however, under the able guidance of the dragoraan, we thoroughly explored the whole of the reraains of this once raagnificent artificial water-course. On our road thence to the town, we passed a picturesque old raosque, and noticed its colonnade of curious brickwork. At a fountain further on we saw sorae Mohararaedans prostrating theraselves in prayer. To the right of this fountain there stands an old sarcophagus, in which, at the time of our visit, some women were washing clothes. Surely this is an instance of those strange changes which tirae brings about. How araazed would be the original occupier of that sarco phagus, ff he could see it now reduced to its present homely use ! We observed traces of the ancient city wall on the moun tain to our right ere we entered the Magnesian Gate. The three openings of this gate can be clearly seen, two of which were reserved for the use of chariots and waggons, and the other for foot passengers only. Near to this gate an inscription was discovered, setting forth the fact that the waters of the " Little Mamas " were brought this way into the city. Within the now ruined waUs of the town we came to a basUica, only ^EGEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR. 499 partiaUy excavated, which, as our dragoraan inforraed us, was raost probably converted into a Christian church in the fourth century, and dedicated to St Luke. The sides of this basiUca were evidently in ages past adapted to the use of shops, and in one of the openings some sawn bones were discovered, which had clearly been prepared as handles of knives. The buUding was circular in forra, fifty feet in diaraeter, and stood in a quadrangle one hundred and fifty feet square. It was adorned by sixteen columns, and there is every reason to beUeve that the whole was formerly surmounted by a dome. We saw traces of the colonnade by which the quadrangle was enclosed, and observed vestiges of the white marble paveraent by which it was adorned. Close to the basUica stands the tomb of St. Luke, the authenticity of which is, to our minds, undoubted. Indeed, the proofs that, in this present dUapidated sepulchre, the reraains of the saint were buried, are positive. A carved erablem of the buU, together with a cross engraved upon the door-post of the tomb, is to be seen. Several graves have been discovered, and itis conjectured that they contained the reraains of Christians who died in the fourth and fifth centuries, and who sought the privilege of resting beside the saint. It is raost probable that the body of St. Luke was buried in a vault in the centre of the tomb on its removal from the original grave beyond the waUs of the city. This happened, it is conjectured, when Christianity had become estabUshed in Ephesus, and after the temple dedicated to Diana, the tutelary goddess of the city, had been destroyed. Amongst the ruins of this raost interesting spot, we visited those of the Odeura, or Lyric Theatre, said to have been biUlt in the time of Antoninus Pius. Our observation was dra-wn to traces of the five front doors, and to the steps leading down into the orchestra. This theatre, the auditorium of which is stUl partly visible, was capable of holding two thousand four hundred people. We afterwards proceeded to inspect the raajestic ruins of the Gyranasiura, which stand near to the ancient city port. It must have been, judging from what remains of it, very spacious, and capable of holding 2 K 2 500 ^GEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR. a vast nuraber of people. Frora this point the great theatre coraes into sight, and we hastened on to gain a nearer ac quaintance with its lofty proscenium, extensive stage and orchestra, and its auditorium, the latter being sufficiently spacious to seat twenty-four thousand persons. The pros cenium is said to have been buUt during the reign of Trajan. We then went onward to the Stadium ; but here there is little to observe, as aU is in complete ruin. Having examined the bases of the colurans and their pedestals, we proceeded to the opposite raound, where stands the ruins of the teraple of Jupiter Serapis. These ruins contain a circular xock-cut altai, with steps on foui sides and pedestals foi colurans. It is evident fiora the traces now left, that the squaie in which this altai stood, was divided into sraaU rooras oi ceUs, siraUai to those at PuteoU, neai Naples. Passing thiongh the Coiessian Gate, towaids the end of the Stadiura, at less than a raile's distance, we carae to that most inteiesting spot, pioved, by Mr Wood's discoveiy in 1869, to be the veritable site of the Temple of Diana. We looked down a depth of thirteen feet, and saw the paveraent of the temple, and also the position which the piUais used foi the support -of the loof, had occupied. Aiound weie fragments of this foimei raonuraent of idolatiy and raagnificence. Deraetrius and his fellow craftsmen, togethei with the silvei shrines which they made foi Diana, came, as it were, to oui view, and the sUence which pievaUed was, in oui imagination, bioken by the ciy on the part of the excited people, " Great is Diana of the Ephesians." We also visited a laige cave, which is said to have affoided sheltei to seven Chxistian youths* who had fled to it fox lefuge at the coraraenceraent of the Decian peisecution, and who, on falling into a deep sleep, continued theie, in that state, foi a peiiod of three bundled and fifty yeais. The histoiy of these seven sleepeis is celebiated in the East, and the legend has found favoui both with Chiistians and * These youths were named, respectively, Maximian, Malchus, Marcian, Dionysius, John, Constantine, and Serapion. /EGEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR. 501 Mohamraedans. Sorae Latin divines, stiange to say, have beUeved in it, while otheis have justly legaxded it as a fable. The legend, as it is geneiaUy leceived, xuns thus : — In the xeign of the Erapeioi Decius thexe wexe seven Christian youths at Ephesus, who were forced to leave that city on account of the prevailing idolatry. They were dUected by God, who purposed to protect them from a perse cution about to take place, to seek refuge in a cave in the vaUey of Eekira. A dog naraed Kratira was observed to foUow thera, and on their atterapting to drive hira back, God unloosed the aniraal's tongue, and caused hira to say, " I love those who love God ; therefore go to sleep, and I wiU guard you." This proraise the dog faithfuUy performed for three hundred and fifty years, that is during the period of the deep sleep into which God had cast the youths. They were also watched over by the special providence of God, who in fluenced them to turn in their sleep, that they raight not be injured by lying too long on one side. He also caused the sun to shine upon the cave all day. When at the end of the three centuries and a half, the youths awoke, one* of theU number went into the to-wn to buy food, but as the coin he offered in payment was so antiquated he was brought before the bishop and governor, and afterwards into the presence of the Eraperor Theodosius, to account for his possession of it. The youth, however, could give no satisfactory reason, as he and his six companions knew not that they had slept for more than haff a day. The Emperor and people hastened to the cave, and inquired of them what theu past history had been. At length God ordained that they should die, and they were buried by the Eraperor with becoraing solemnity in the cave to which we are now referring, and a chapel was built over their remains. They are considered to rank next to the prophets by Mohararaedans, and rauch honour is accorded to the faithful dog by this sarae sect of religionists. Indeed this aniraal's name is written as a taUs- * He who was named Malchus, 502 ^GEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR. raan on their letters, and he, it is supposed, is one of the favoured aniraals which, according to Mohararaedan teaching, wUl gain admittance into Paradise, The other aniraals which Mohararaedans contend wUl be adraitted into Paradise, are the rara sacrificed on Mount Moriah, Jonah's whale, Soloraon's ant, Abrahara's caff. Queen of Sheba's ass, the pro phet Salech's carael, Moses' ox, Belkis' cuckoo, the ass on which Balaara rode, the ass on which our Lord entered Jerusalera, and the mule on which Mahomet rode to heaven. So struck was Mahoraet* when he read the story of the seven sleepers, that he devoted one whole chapter of the Koran to the subject. On nearing the Magnesian Gate, we carae upon the re mains of the beautfful base of the tomb of Androclus, A massive pUnth, however, surrounded by some masonry, is aU that is now left of this once magnificent sepulchre. It dates back as far as one thousand years before Christ, and is, perhaps, the raost ancient masonry which Ephesus now con tains. We saw many beautiful marble sarcophagi, elaborately and richly carved, which had recently been exhumed frora their beds of earth. On sorae, representations of wreaths of flowers and heads of wUd animals were carved in bas relief. The next of the seven churches of Asia which we selected to visit, was that of Sardis, but as there is no direct com munication between Ephesus and the ruined city in question, our only pl^an of reaching it was to return to Smyrna, and to proceed thence to Sardis. This we accordingly did, and so arrived in due tirae at the once flourishing capital of Lydia. It is situated on a rich plain at the foot of Mount Iraolus, and is watered by the Eiver Pactolus. It attained its greatest prosperity in the reign of Croesus, King of Lydia, and when that sovereign was conquered by Cyrus, B.C. 545, it became the chief city of the Persian kingdom in this part of Asia. Aristagoras and Histoeus having instigated the city to revolt, it was burnt to the ground by the lonians and the Athenians * Mahomet has improved this story by representing the seven sleepers as having prophesied of his coming. ^GJSAN SEA. AND ASIA MINOR. 503 It was afterwards rebuilt ; and later on, Alexander the Great, having obtained possession of it, restored aU the ancient pri-vUeges to its inhabitants. After various changes, it feU into the hands of the Eomans, and was visited by a severe and disastrous earthquake in the reign of Tiberius. By the liberality of that Emperor, however, the damages were repaUed and the city restored. We do not know when Christianity was introduced into Sardis ; but we do know that in the second century the Christians residing there were placed under the spiritual care of MeUto, For many cen turies the city underwent great changes, and finaUy in 1304 was taken possession of by the Tartars and Turks, It is now a sadly ruined and wretched place, consisting of a few- hovels, and is caUed by the inhabitants Sart. We visited the ruins of the palace of Croesus and those of the teraple of Cybele, This teraple was built of coarse whitish raarble, -with its western front on the banks of the Eiver Pactolus, its eastern side being under the iraposing buUdings of the AcropoUs, We then inspected the ruins of the araphitheatre, those also of the Stadiura, and thence went to the old gate of the city, where we saw portions of the ancient waUs. Five ruins which, in rotation, we next -visited, had apparently no history attached to thera, and consequently we could leam nothing of theii foiraei use. We saw, too, the rains of the torabs of some of the Lydian Kings and othei men of note, including the torab of Alyathes, the fathei of Cxoesus. This biought OUI toui of exploxation to a close, and we left the scene, leflecting on the instabiUty of huraan greatness and the passing gloiy of the worid. We spent the night at Saidis. corafortably instaUed at the lailway station (theie being no hotel), by the kind courtesy of the laUway officials. The next raoming we pioceeded to PhUadelphia by train, and on the way there had the raisfoitune to ran ovei a buffalo. The pooi cieatuie was most seveiely injuied by the accident. Us legs havmg been almost seveied fiom its body by the wheels of the engine. Mohammedan law, which 504 AEGEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR. calls upon the foUoweis of the Piophet not to take the lives of aniraals, pievented the humane act of putting this pool cieatuie out of its miseiy. Thus, as we weie letuming along the Une on the following day, we saw the unfortunate aniraal still -wiithing in agony. Philadelphia does not pxesent such scenes of desolation and xuin as do Ephesus and Saidis ; and although much leduced fiora its foiraei size and iraportance, is stUl occupied by eight oi ten thousand inhabitants, who aie chiefly Mohammedans, It is situated on the high xoad between Laodicea and Saidis, is washed by the Eivei Cogaraus, and beais the raodein name of AUah-Shehx, the " City of God," It was founded by Attains PhUadelphus, the biothei of Euraenus, King of Peigaraos, about 130 B,c,, and ha-ving been destxoyed by an eaithquake, was, accoiding to Tacitus, lestoied by Tiberius Caesar Veiy Uttle is known of its histoiy, but to judge flora the style of the few ancient buUdings which stUl leraain, we raay conclude that there weie but few edifices of any size oi beauty in it. It was buUt on seveial hUls, and was foiraeily sunounded by waUs, considerable portions of which are stUl standing. One of the ancient gateways by which it was appioached, is weU worthy of obseivation, and the sarae may be said of the rains of the Aciopolis, and those also of the Stadiura, Ha-ving -visited these inteiesting objects of a pagan age, we exploied, in the next place, the rains of an eariy Christian chuich, the principal featuie of which is a noble though dUapidated aich. We now pioceeded a short distance beyond the city, in oidei to visit a raineral spring, the wateis of which are veiy stiong. WhUst we were stand ing by this well, several Mohararaedans came to diaw watei, and on doing so tied lags to the bianches of a shiub which grew in close proximity to it These rags, we were told, are regarded by these superstitious people as offerings to the genius of the well. Thence, we walked a distance of, perhaps, two railes in search of some hot springs, which we were successful in finding. In consequence, however, of the ^EGEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR, 505 great quantity of rain which had faUen and mixed with the springs during the three or four days preceding our visit, the temperature of the water was not so high as is generaUy the case. Having fouud, as at Sardis, irapromptu quarters at the raUway station, there being no " hostelry," we passed the night at PhUadelphia, and returned to Smyrna on the fol lowing day. 506 Chapter XV. TUEKEY, Mitylene — Tenedos — Chanak-kalessi — Sea of Marmora — Constantinople — Mosque of Santa Sophia — Mosque of Suliman the Magnificent — Mosque of Sultan Aehmet — Mosque of Mohammed II — Mosque of Bayazid II — Mosque of Shahzadeh — TuUp Mosque — Cistern of Constantine — Hip podrome — Column of Theodosius — ObeUsk formerly covered with Plates of Brass — Serpentine Column — Bumt Column — Etmeiden — Museum of Ancient Ottoman Costumes — Tower of Galata — Dancing Dervishes — Bazaars — Scutari — HowUng Dervishes— Turkish Cemetery — Enghsh Cemetery. On lea-ving Smyrna, we proceeded by the Austrian Lloyds' steam-ship " Aurora," to Constantinople. As we were steam ing out of the harbour of Smyrna, our vessel coUided with another stearaer belonging to the same company, and so cora pletely entangled did the two ships become, as to require, during the space of an hour, aU the exertions of the saUors to separate the one from the other. When this had been effected, we discovered that our vessel had sustained no injury beyond the loss of her raain yard, which was carried away with a great crash shortly after the coUision had occuned. The first place at which we stopped on this voyage, was the Island of Mitylene, so faraous for its picturesque scenery and salubrity of cliraate. This island, though greatly injured by a severe earthquake with which it was visited on the 7th of March, 1867, has apparently xecoveied fiom the shock, and stiU exults in the appeUation "insula nobiUs et arasena," which was applied to it by Tacitus, A.D. 69. The island which we next visited was Tenedos, a place described in Homeric vexse as the station to which, duiing the Trojan wai, the Gieeks withdrew theii fleet foi a season. On lea-ving Tenedos we anived, aftei a short ran, at the town of Chanak-kalessi, oi, as it is more generally called, the TURKEY. 507 City of the DardaneUes. It is a sraaU town, consisting, we suppose, of not raore than three thousand houses, and is more or less famous for its trade in pottery. In the centre of the city we observed a large Mohararaedan tomb, before which, every Friday, tapers are burnt and prayers are said. Chanak- kalessi is provided with a large and strongly fortifled castle, caUed AnadoU-Hissar, which, with the aid of a siraUar fortifi cation standing on the opposite shore, coraraands the raouth of the DardaneUes. It was originaUy buUt by certain of the Greek eraperors, but, o-wing to the neglect and indolence of theu iraperial successors, it feU into a state of great decay. It was at length seized and rebuUt by Mahoraed II, on the occasion of the Turks extending theU dorainions to the Asiatic shores of the DardaneUes. Entering the Sea of Marraora, which, owing to the smoothness of its waters, resembled a large lake rather than a sea, we were not long in reaching Constantinople, so justly reno-wned for the grandeur of its situation. As our approach towards this city took place on the raorrdng of a bright autumnal day, when the sun was rising in aU his splen dour, and radiating -with his cheerful beams not only the lofty domes and graceful rainarets of the various raosques, but also the rows of houses which, in tenace-like forra, rise one above the other, the scene was most enchanting. On landing, we repaired to Missiris Hotel (Hotel d'Angle tene), and procuring the services of an exceUent dragoraan, at once entered upon an exploration of the city. The raosque of Santa Sophia was the first object of interest which carae under our notice, and so struck were we with admUation on beholding its size and magnificence, that it was with reluc tance (after a -visit extending over an hour) we withdrew from its courts. According to Walsh, Constantine, so soon as he had dedi cated his new city to Christ, deemed it right to pro-vide an edifice in which Christian worship inight be duly celebrated. He, therefore, buUt a church, which he dedicated to the 'Aryla a-o