ra,')!/C>2

A
NARRATIVE ^ OF THE
EXTRAORDINARY ADVENTURES,
AND
Sufferhigs by Shipwreck isf Imjiri/onment,
OF
DONALD CAMPBELL, Esq.
OF BARBRECK:
WITH THE SINGULAR HUMOURS OF HIS TARTAR GUIDE,
HASSAN ARTAZj
COMPRISING
The Occurrences of Four Years and Five Days,
IN AN
OVERLAND JOURNEY
TO
INDIA.
'-*'- ' ' ¦J '. ' ". " -.-" -  .'. ".,¦'¦"¦-"¦ '"K 'I'l' ¦¦¦-¦.¦
THE THIRD EDITION. ,
FAITI*FULLY ABSTRACTED FROM CAPT. CAMPBELL'S
«' LETTERS TO HIS SON."

•' What is tbis world ? Thy fchool, O raifery !
" Our only leffon is, to learn lo fuffer ;
" And he who knows not that was born for nothing." YoiNc.
LONDON:
PPINTSD FOS VERNOR AND HOOD, IN THE rOUS.IR».
nas.

Ho the REJDER.

In a feries of Letters, fixty-three in num
ber, publilhed lately in a large quarto vo
lume. Captain Campbell (formerly a Com
mander in the Cavalry of the Nabob of the
Carnatic) has related to his Son the circum-
ftances attending his journey overland to
India, chiefly by a route never gone before
by any European.
To give fuch readers, whole curiofity may
exceed their power to gratify it to any large
extent, an opportunity of perufing a work
replete with moll extraordinary incidents,
A z the

( iv )
the prefent'abftraft has been made; and the
fubftance of the fixty-three letters, divefted
of the epillolary llyle, and thrown into the
more femiliar form of continuous narrative,
arranged under twelve divifions or chapters.
Capt. Campbell's remarks on his tour from
London to Aleppo, through Flanders, &c.
have been materially abridged, as wanting
that novelty and variety which pervade the
fubfequent parts of his volume;, and indeed
the fources of information open to the pub
lic, as to every city, or town on the Euro-
pean continent, have of late been fo very
much increafed by different tourifl:s, as to
fuperfede in a great degree the neceflity for
it in the prefent infl:ance.
$ome of the Captain's rnoFal refledlions.
too (having a peculiar application to the
young gentleman to whom, his letters were
' addrefled).

( V )
addrefled), though judicious and ufeful as
didaftic precepts to a youth, have been cither
wholly omitted in this little volume, or merely
epitomifed, as lefs interefting to the general
reader. Paflfages alfo of a local nature, and others
referring to family circumftances, were con-
fidered as unneceflTary to the prefent purpole,
and paflTed over accordingly.
On the whole, it is prefumed, that the re-
fpeiflable author, whofe fortitude under un
exampled fiiflferings does no lefs honour to
him as a man, than his integrity under circura-
fl:ances of fl:rong temptation does to his loy
alty and patriotifm, will not be difpleafed
with this attempt to render the account of
his very fingular adventures acceflible to the
lefs wealthy clafs of readers.
July 1796. A3 S.2-

CONTENTS.

CHAPTE^R THE FIRST.
THE Author's Motives for going to India — Melan~
choly Prefentiments — "Journey to Margate-^
Packet — Confoled by meeting General Lockhart
on board — Lands at OJiend. — Bruges — Ghent —
Aloji — Brujfels — Liege — Aix-la-Chajielle — Ju-
liers — Cologne — Bonne — Frankfort — Augsburg A
— Adventure in the Convent of the Carmelites Fage 1
CHAPTER THE SECOND.
Tyrol Country — Story of the Genii leading the Em
peror Jffaximiiixzn affray — Infp'ruSf — Bolfano —
Trent-^Bcffano — Venice — Concubinage more' fyf-
termitirally countertanced in Venice than in London
—^Trie/ie-^Ca/tt. Carnjilrell lofes hii Servant' and
Inferpreter — Sails for Alexandria — Adventure
with a Lady at Zante-^ Arrives at Alexandria — ¦
Cyprus-^ Aleliln - - - 25
CHAP-

Vm CONTENTS.
"chapter THE THIRD.
Defcriptian of Ale/ipo^An Eafiem' Caravan de-
fcribed — Ceremonies ufed by Pilgrims at Mecca — -
Frequent Broils in the^ Street at Aleppo — Coffee~
houfes — Story-tellers — Pitppet-fhews — Khara-
gufe, or Punch, his Freedom of Speech and Sa
tire - - _ _ . Page 53
CHAPTER THE FOURTH.
Difagreeable Adventure, which occafions the Author's
Judden departure from Aleppo— ^Plan of travelling
fettled— Leaves Aleppo — Uefcripiion and Conduit
of his Tartar Guide — Arrives at Diarleker — De
fer ipt ion of that famous City — Whimfical Incident
eccafioned by laughing — Oddity of the Tartar —
Strange Traits in his Charailer — Buys Women,
^ ti«s them up in Sacks, and carries them fifty
Miles, - - _ - 89
CHAPTER THE FIFTH..
Extravagant Conduit of the Tartar, which he af-
^ terwards fatisfailorily explains — Extraare^nary
Incident and Addrefs of the Tartar in the cafe of
the. Santons — Arrival at, and Defcription of
Moful — A Story-teller — A Pufipet-fhew , — The .
Tartar forced to yield to Laughter, which he had
fa much condemned — Set gut for Bagdad — Calkn-
ders, their artful Praiiices - - 125
' CHAP-

CONTENTS. JX
CHAPTER THE SIXTH.
Arrival at BagJud — IVhhnfical Conduit of the
Guide — Short Account of Bagdad — Ruins of Ba
bylon — Leaves Bagdad — Attacked by Robbers on
the Tigris — Arrival at BaJJa^ra — Account of that
City—Leaves it, and arrives at Biificer — More
D if appointments — Bombay — Goa — Gloomy Pre
fentiments on leaving Goa — A Storm — Ship
wreck _ - . Page 146
CHAPTER THE SEVENTH.
Cafit. Campbell is made Prifoner by fame of Hyder
Ally's Troofis — Humanity of a Lafcar — Hat d-
fliijis — Meets Mr. Hall — Sent under a Guard
up the Country — Arrives at Hydernagur — Is
brought before the Jemadar, and committed to
Prlfon - _ , _ 177
CHAPTER THE EIGHTH.
Hlflory of Hyat Sahib — Our Traveller is railed
upon to enter Into the Service of Hyder, and'offered
a Command — Peremptorily refufes It— A Native
Prifoner — Courts of Jujlice — Mr, Hall's affec
ting Hlflory — Capt, Campbell again preJJcd to
ferve' In Hyder' s Army — Refufes, Is threatened, to
be hanged, and is ailually fufpended, but let dou/n
again — Projeifs a Plan to excite a Revolt, and fo
cfcape , - •- . „ 1.97
CHAP,

X CONTENTS.
CHAPTER THE NINTH.
The ProjeSt to efcape defeated — The Prlf oners are
laid in Irons — Intolerable Hardfhlps -^ Death of
Mr. Hall — Melancholy Situation of his Fellow Cap
tive — Capt, Campbell relcafed from Prlfon - 220
CHAPTER THE TENTH.
Defcerit of General Matthews on the Malabar Coetfit
who ' mounts the. Ghauts, and approaches Hyder-
i nagur — Capt. Campbell's Delight at getting into
the open Air, after his horrible Confinement — Is
delivered unexpeiiedly from his Guards — Returns
to the Fort, and propiofes to the Jemadar to give
¦ it lip to the Engllfli — Proceeds to the Engllfh
Camp - . , - - 229
CHAPTER THE ELEVENTH.
Meeliflg with General Matthews — Capt. Campbell
returns to the Fort with a Cowl, and delivers It. to
the Jemadar — Leads General Matthews into the
Fort, and prefents him to the Jemadar— Engllffi
Flag hoifted — Capt, Campbell fets off for Bengal
— Unable to proceed — Letter from General Ma
thews — Proceeds In an open Boat far Anj^nga —
Stopped by Slcknefs at Mangalore — Telll cherry —
Anjengo- — Travancore — The Dancing Girls —
Palamcotah — Madurah— Revolt of Iff Cawn—
Trltchlnopoly — Tanjore — Burning alive of Gentoa
l^/'rivrtpvi

CONTENTS. XI
If'omen with the dead Bodies of their Hujlands —
Ncgapatnam — He leaves Negapatnam — Is taken
by a French Frigate — Horrible Reflefllons — Ad
miral Suffreln — Charaiier of Tlppoo Sahib — Ef-
capes, and arrives at Madras - Page 242
CHAPTER THE TWELFTH.
Pafjage to Bengal — Negoclatlon for Hyat Sahib — •
Capt, Campbell hears of the Servant he had lofi at
Trlefie — Vlzagapatnam — MafuUpatam- — Arrives
at Madras — Determines to proceed on Hyat's Bufi-
ncfs to Bombay — Reaches Palamcotah — Taken
fick — Recovering, crawls to Anjengo, and thence
to Bombay — Refolves to return to Madras — Ad
venture with a young Lady — Surat — China — Ar
rives at Falmouth, after an abfence from Eng
land of four Years and five Days - 266

ADVEN-

ADVENTURES, &c. &c. &c.

CHAPTER THE FIRST.

THE author's motives FOR GOING TO INDIA.
 MELANCHOLY PRESENTIMENTS.  JOUR
NEY TO MARGATE.  PACKET.  CONSOLED
¦ BY MEETING GENERAL LOCK HART ON BOARD
 LANDS AT OSTEND.  BRUGES.-^GHENT. — •
ALOST.  BRUSSELS.  LIEGE.  AI*-LA-CHA-
PELLE.  JULIERS.  COLO<JNE.  BONNE.—
FRANKFORT. — AUGSBURGH.  ADVENTURE
IN THE CONVENT OF THE CARMELITES.
./\FTER fome introductory Letters on the im
portance of education, and on the numerous difad-
vantages under which young men are placed by an
ignorance of geography and a deficieiicy in other
branches of polite literature extremely proper as ad
drefled by a father to his fon, the .reader finds, that
a variety of unpropitious circumftances gave rife to
B Captaia

2 ADVENTURES IN AN
Captain Cambell's journey to the Eaft Indies,
while domeftic calamity marked his departure, and,
at theSiiery;outfet,''gavehim a foreta'fte of thofe mi-
feries which fate had referved to let fall upon him
in the fequel.
The channels from which he drew the means of
fupporting his family in that ftyle which their rank
and coliflte^ons obUged them to mamtain, were
clogged by a coincidence of events as unlucky as un-
cxpefted : . the war in India haji interrupted the
regular remittance of nis 'prjope'rTy Trom thence:
a fevere fhock which unbounded generofity and be-
nificericehaid given to the aflfeirs of his father, f^en-
dered huti' incapable of inaintaining his ufifal punc
tuality in the, payment, of, rhje income he had af-
•figned him-; and, to crown the, whole, he had-been
dejprived', by'\leath, ' ef two lotely children.
It was under the pre flu re of fuch accumulated
misfortunes, and agitated by the goading thought of
leaving his family for fuch a length of time as nwift
neceflarily elapfe before he could again fee theta,
that he fetout forl^dia in the month of May, in
the year 1761.
His journey down to Margate, where he vras
to 'take ihip'plrig, was, as Shakfpeare emphatically
"fays, "'a phantafm, or 'a hideous dream — and' Ms

OVERLAND JOURNEY TJO INDIA. 3
<' litde ftate of man fuffered, as it were, the na-
" ture of an infurreftlon ;" — the chaos widiin him
forbade even the approach of difcriminate reflec
tion ; and he found himfelf on board the packet,
bound to bftend, without having a fingle trace left
upon his mind, of the intermediate ftages and in
cidents that happened after he had left London.
He was, however, fortunate enough to find in
the packet a fellow paflenger, whofe interefting
converfation and agreeable manners beguiled him
infenfibly of the gloomy contemplation in which he
was abforbed, and afibrded his tortuied mind a
temporary fufpenfion of pain. This gentleman
was General Lockhart ; he was going to Bruflels,
to pay his court to the Emperor Jofeph the Second,
who was then fliortly expedied in the Low Countries
in order to go through the ceremonies of his inau
guration. As Bruflels lay in Capt. Campbell's
route, he was flattered with the hopes of having
for a companion a gentleman at once fo pleafing
in his manners and refpeftable in his charafter,
and v^as greatly comforted when he found the General
as much difpofed as himfelf to an agreement to travel
the whole of the way thither together. Thus,
though very far from a ftate of eafe, he was, when
landing at Oftend, at leaft lefs miferable than at his
coming on board the packet. B 2 Tlie

¦4i • ADVENTURES IN Alf '
The country between Oftend and Bruges Capt.
Campbell defcribes" as very level, and of courfc
¦ deftitute of thofe charms to a mjnd of tafte, which
'abound in countries tofled by the hand of Nature
into hill, dale, mountain, and valley : the whole
-face of it, however, is, or at leaft then was,, in fo
high a ftate of cultivation, and fo deeply enriched
by the ha;ids of art and induftry, aided by the na
tural fertility of the foil, that its appearance,
though, far from ftriking or delight'ful, was by no
means unpleafaht ; and on approaching the town
¦¦ of Bruges, they paffed between two rows of trees,
beautiful, fhady, and of lofty ilze — ^forming, with
the furrounding objeflis, a fcene, which, if not ro
mantic, was at leaft pidiurefque,
Entering Bruges, they were flopped by a cen-
tinel, who, with all the faucy fwaggering air of
authority of a-flave in pfiice, demanded to know,
whether they had any contraband goods ? whether
they were in any military capacity ? whence they
came? and whither they were going? with a variety
of other interrogatories, to his mind equally imperti
nent and deteftable, but which feemcd to make no
o-reater impreffion on the good Flemings themfelves,
than demanding the toll at a turnpike-gate would
make on an Engiifli waggoner.
If. T ¦ ¦ '
As our traveller was going to the barque, at

ii  /^ i_

WVkRLAND JOUKNBV TO INDIA. 5
town in his route, he was furprifed to fte a number
of officious, bufy, poor fellows, crowding round
his effedts, and feizing them — fome his trunk,
fome his portmanteau, &c. two or three' to each :
but his aftonifliment partly fubfided when he was told
that they were porters, who plied on the canal,
and about the city, for fubfiftence, and only came
to have the honour of carrying his baggage down to
the veflel. Noting their eagernefs, he could not
help fmiling. "There are thofe," fays he,." and
I have heard of fuch, who would blufter at
them : but my mirth at the buftling importance
which the poor fellows affefted, foon funk into
ferious concert ; I faid within myfelf, alas,
how hard is your lot ! and my imagination was
in an inftant back again in London, where a
porter often makes you pay for a job, not in
money only, but in patience alfo, and where
the furlihefs of independence fcowls upon his
brow as he does your work. Every one of thefe
men demanded a remuneration for his labour :
one man, it is true, could have eafily done thft
work of five — but I refolved not to fend them
away difcontented, and paid them to their full
fatisfaition." Being feated in his barque, he fet oiF for Ghent,
a city lying at "a diftance of twenty-four miles from
Bruges. The company, he obferves, is in thofe
B 3 veflel§

S ADVENTUTIES" lU' AlSt
veflels not always of the firft rank ; It is generally
of a mixed,- motley kind : but to a mau who carries
along with him, through his travels, a love for his
fellow^creatures, and a defM^ to fee men, and their.
cnftoms and manners, it is both pleafant and eligible
— at leaft he thought it fo, and enjoyed it.
Although the fece of tliat part of the country
tJlTOugh' which they were now paffing, like that of
the preceding ftage from Oftend to Burges, wanted
diverfity, it had its charms, and tvould have beert
particularly delightful to the eye of an Englifli
farmer ; for it was' covered with the diickeft ver
dure on each fide of the cartal, and the banks dec©.*
rated all along by rows of ftately trees, while th«i
, fields in the back ground- were culli'vated to the
higheft degree of peisfeSiiou.
Ghent is the capital of Fla-nders, and is to be
reckoned- among the largefb cities of Europe, as
it covers a fpace of ground of not lefs than feven
miles- in circumference ^ but there is not above one
half of that occupied with buildings, the greater
^rt beiftg thrown into fields, -gardens, orchards,
and pleafure-grounds. Situated on four navigable
rivers, and interfered into no fewer than twenty-
fix, iflainds by a number of canals, which afford an
eafy, cheap, and expeditious carriage for weighty
merfihaiidife, it mmy be cbjufidcred, in point of

OVERLAND JOURN%T TO I,NDIA. 7
local advantages for commerce, fup?i;ior to moft
cities in Europe : while thofe iflands are again
united by about a hundred bridges, fojne great and
fome fmall, which contribute much to the beauty
of the city.
Fr om Ghent to Bruflels (the next great ftage ia
their way) there was no conveyance by water :
tliey were therefore obliged to go in a vojiture, and
ftopt at Aloft, as an interniediate ftage; indeed, ma-,
thematically intermediate it is-r-for it lies a^ equal
diftance from Ghent and. Bruflsls, being ej^aftly.
fifteen miles from each.
This, is a fpiall, but exceedingly neat town,
fituated on the river Dender ; ajid- being a remark
ably great thoroughfare, accomodations of every
kind are tolerably good in it.
The territory of this city is of pretty large ex
tent, and is called a county, having, in ancient
times, had counts of its own ; and the whole of it
is extremely fruitful in pafture, corn, hops, fla3{»
and moft other produiElions of thofe climes.
They made but a very ftiort flay at Aloft, and
proceeded on to Bruflels, at which 'plac? they air
rived the fame day they left Ghent.
B 4 " In

8 Ai)VENTURE3 IN AW ' V.
" In all parts of the Netherlands through which
I travelled," fays Captain • Campbell, " I cOuld'
not help admiring the uniform decorations, of the
roads, rivers, ¦ and canals, with rows of lofty
trees, which form a moft agreeable ftiade fif-om'
the fummer's burning fun, and yet do not obftrpft
any great extertt of profpeft, the couiitry is'Yo
extremely flat. One thing L remarked, and
which^ certainly feems at firft. view extraordinary,
that in the great extent of country through which
we had hi^erto pafled, from Oftend to Bruf^
fels, being fixty-eight miles, I fcarcely faw one
nobleman or gentleman's feat'— nothing above the
houfe of a huftjandman, a curate, or fome perfon
of fniall fortune : yet '»the country is extremely
rich; and I faw many fpots, as I went along,
charming beyond defcription, and fuch as would
tempt, I fliould think, a man of tafte and opu
lence to fettle in them. This muft appear un
accountable ta thofe who do nor recolleft, that
in a (Country fubjedt like this- to the ravaging in-
curfions of contending armies, fortified towns are
Gonfidered as the' moft pleafing, ibecaufe the mofl;
fecure retreats of opulence. 1
"As I approached the city of Bruflels, I was
ftruck with a .mixed fenfation of furprife and de
light at the appearance ; it made — none that I
had ever feen being comparable to it, and not

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDtA. S»
one in Europe, by the account of travellers,
being in that refpedl fuperior to it, Naples and
Genoa only excepted : like them, however, when
entered, it falls far ftiort of the expedtation raifed
by its external appearance, being all compofed of
hills and hollows, which not only fatigue, but
render the appearance of the ftreets, though well
built, extremely mean."
Brussels ftands on the beautiful river Scnne,
on the brow of a hill. This city is about feven
miles in circumference, has feven gates, with ex-
tenfive fuburbs, and is encompafled with a double
wall made of brick, and ditches ; but its fize is
too great for ftrength, as a face of defence of fuch
extent could not poflibly hold out a long fiege — a,
great and infuperable defe6l in fuch a country as is
here defcribed.
Great as is the extent of ground on which this
city ftands, it is neverthelefs very well built, and
extremely populous. It is ornamented with no
fewer than feven fquares, all of them remarkably
fine, particularly the great fquare or market-place,
which is perhaps the fineft in Europe. Around it
are the halls of tlie different trades, the fronts of
which are adorned, in a fuperb manner, with-em-
blematical fculpture, with gilding, and a variety of
Latin infcriptions. One quarter of this fquare is
B 5 entirely

10 ADVENTURES tit AS
. entirely occupied by the hoble houfes, a noble pile
of building, in which there were apartments where
the States of Brabant met, finely adorned with" ta-
peftry in gilt frames, and fome admirable original
paintings.' At the time Capt. Campbell was there,
the whole city was in motion, preparing for the in
auguration of the Emperor, who was then impati
ently expefled,' and whofe approach made fuch a
buftle, and promifed fuch a fpeSacle, as made him
regret the neceffity he lay under of proceeding on
his journey.
As the time of his dejiarture from Bruflels ap
proached, he found the bitter fenfations with which
he left London, in fome meafure returning.—
His fortunate encounter with General Lockhart had
afforded him a temporary -refpite • but now he was
once more to face an unknown country alone, with
out the chance of again meeting a friend to folace
his mind. Or mitigate his Woe, on this -fide of"
India. Having feen as mucli of Bruflels as his time
and occafions would allow, hedetermined to puih
forward "as faft as it was poflTible, and took poft fer
Liege, Where he arrived, aftef pafliHg through a
beautiful, fertile, well coltivated country, to. the
charms of wiuch the renewed agofiy of bis feelings
renderied him ahnoft infenfible. . ¦:¦¦'¦
The

OVERLAND journey TO INDIA. It
The imperial city of Aix-la-Chapelle, by the
Germans called Achcn, lies at the diftance of twen
ty-fix miles, nearly Eaft, of Liege. As it was a
moderate ftage, the weather fine, and die face of
the country around beautiful, he found his journey
extremely pleafant, and entered that famous city in
as good a dlfpofition to be pleafed with it, as cir
cumftances and refledtions fo melancholy as his
(which, in fpite of every efixjrt, would intrude tliem-
felves) might be fuppofed to allow.
Perhaps no city in Germany has a fairer claim
to antiquity than Aix-la-Chapelle ; for it was fa
mous, even in the time of the ancient Romans, for
its vraters, and was b-y them called j^quifgranum, or
Urbs Aquenfis. It was defolated by the Huns, who
deftroyed and trampled under foot every veftige of
^:efinement wherever they carried their conquefts ;
and it lay in ruins till it was rebuilt by Charle-
M AGNE, who made it the feat of his Empire on this
fide of the Alps. By him it was ordained, that. the
Kings of the Romans fhould be crowned there ; and
it has been famous, fince that time, for Councils
and Treaties, particularly that celebrated one be
tween France and Spain in 1663^ and another
between France and Great Britain in 1748.
But what, above all things, renders Aix-la-Cha
pelle worthy of notice, is the' falubrity of its wa-
¦¦¦"¦"5''-.' Be ters.

\2 ADVENTURES IN AN
ters, which bring from England, and all other Eu
ropean nations, a. vaft concourfe pf valetudinarians,
who contribute at once to the gaiety and opulence
of the city and adjacent country. Some of thefe
Waters are ufed for drinking, and others for bathing,
refembling very much, in their quality, the virtues
of thofe of '. Bath, in Somerfetftiire ; but fome of ,
thfem are ftill hotter and ftronger : they are unplea-
¦fant to the tafte till ufe reconciles the palate to them,
and moft of them have a very ofienfive fmell; but
they are often powerful in effeft, giving relief in a
variety of mTiladieSj and are rendered ftill more pa
latable by the commodious neatnefs of the baths,
the excellence of the accomodations, and the great
plenty of provifions, which are at once good and
reafonablc in this city.
Bidding adeau to the famous city of Aix-la-Cha-
¦pelle, which, very untraveller like, Capt. Camp-
feel paffed withsiut drinking of its waters, he puflied
on, and foon arrived at the city of Juliers, tlwj
capital of a dutchy of that name, fixtee'n miles
from Aix. Tl^e country itfelf is wonderfully fruit
ful, teeming with abundance of all forts of corn,
¦Vf6oi, pafture, woadv coal, and cattle; above all,
a moft excellent breed of horfes, of which great
nvfmhers are exported.

QtflTTJNO

OVERLAND JOUKNEV TO INDIA. I.S
Quitting Juliers, and travelling over a very
even road, and a country extremely flat (for from
Aix-la-Chapelle he met with but one hill), he ar
rived at Cologne, the capital, not only of the Arch-
bifliopric of that name, but of the circle of the Lower-
Rhine. His fpirits, which were not in the very beft
tone, Capt. Campboll defcribes as not at all raifed
on entering the city, by the ringing of church-bells,
of all tones and fizes, in every quarter. Being a
ftranger, he thought it had been a rejoicing day :
but, on inquiry, found that it was the conftant prac
tice. Never, in his life, had he heard fuch an in
fernal clatter: never before had he feen any thing fo
gloomy and melancholy ; the ftreets black, , difmal
bells tolling, bald-pated friars, in myriads, trailing
their long black forms through the ftreets, molding
their faces into every ftiape that art had enabled them
to aflume, in order to excite commiferation, and
begging alms with a melancholy fong calculated fb^
the purpofe, fomething like that of our blind beg
gars in London, and produ£tive of the fame difa
greeable effeft upon the fpirits. In fliort,, he was
not an hour in Cologne, when thefe circumftances,
confpiring with the infuperable melancholy of his
mind, made him wifli himfelf out of it.
From Cologne he proceeded to the town of
Bonne, which is faid to takq its name from the plea-
lantnefs of its fituatlon. Here the Eleilor refides, and

r* ADVENTURES IS AN
and has a very fine palace. The country around is
extremely fruitful and pleafant, and is blefled with
moft of the good things which render the rich mag
nificent and happy, and remind the poor of their
inferiority and wretchednefs ; particularly wine,
which is here remarkably excellent.
To go from Bonne to Frankfort, there are two
ways, due ovei: the mountains of Wetterania, the
other up the river Rhine. Our traveller made no
hefitation to adopt the latter, and was rewarded for
his choice wirfi the view of as fine'a ooiintry, inha- '
t>ited by as fine a race of people, as he had ever feen.
VaUies filled with herds, plains enamelled with torn
fields, and hills covered with vineyards, regaled the
<ye, and conveyed to the mind all the felicitating
ideas of plenty, natural opuleace, and true profpe-
rity. His anxietyj' hbWever, to get forward, and
to difengage himfelf from a fpecies of folitude in a
country where, though travelling is cheap, accom
modations of moft kinds in the public-houfes are
bad,' induced him to pufli on, without taking the
time neceflary for making accurate obfervations on
¦4he country as Ke pa^d ; fo that, gliding as it were
imperceptibly through a number of towns, o'f which
he recoUedis nothing diftinflly but the names of
- Cohlentz and Mentz, he aiTived at the great, free,
and Imperial city of Frankfort on the Maine.
, •, . : >1 . ... -.^1 1
. fl . ~ " The

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO fWDIA. 15
The country about Frankfort is delightful, rich,
and fruitful^ and watered by .the lieautiful river
Maine, which divides the city into two parts ; that
on the north being called Frankfort, and tliat on the
fouth, Saxenhaufen, from the Saxons, who are fup
pofed to have been the founders of it. The city it
felf is large, populous, and rich, and diftlnguiftied
for being the place where the Emperor and King of
the Romans is elefted, though, by the appointment
of Charlemagne, Cologne has a fuperior claim to
that honour. The magiftrates, and great part of
the inhabitants, are Lutherians or Calvinifts : not-
withftanding which, moft of the churches are in the
hands of the Roman Catholics ; a laudable inftance
of the true tolerant fpirit of a wife and virtuous in-
ftitution, and a heavy refleftion upon, as well as a
noble example to, the popifti powers of Europe.
A SINGULAR cuftom prevai-ls here, which is
thought worth mentioning : Taverns are denoted by
pine trees planted before the doors of tliem ; and the
diflerent prices of the wines in their cellars are
marked in cyphers on the door pofts.
Fro^m Frankfort to Augfburgh, our travefler paf
fed through a number of towns, all of them very
inconfiderable. The way lies from the Palatinate
through the circle of Suabia. In the extreme end
of the Palatinate, and immediately before enteririg
the duchy of Wirterriberg, -the cotintry 9s coVerfed with

IDVENTUKES IW AN

with fir-trees ; and.money he delj'cribes as fo fcarce-
in it, that a loaf of wheaiten bread, weighing eight
pounds, Gofts but tworppnce. ¦• ; '
The city of Augft)urgh is the capital of a bifliop-
ric of that name, in the circle of Suabia, and is
worthy oi the attention of the clafllcal traveller for
its antiquity. About twelve years before the birth
of Chrift, Auguftus Csefar fubdued all this country,
and, on the; places where Augfburgh now ftands,
formed a colony, gave the town the name of Au-
gufta Virideficqrum, and put it Under' the govern
ment of Drufus, the brother of Tiberius, afterwards-
Emperor of Rome. The inhabitants of this .place
were the Vindelie, a branch of the Ulyrians. But,
ancient though it be, it has little more of antiquity
to entitle it to notice than tftebarename; for it has
been pillaged fo often, particiilarly' by thdt monfter
Attila, that there are fcarcely any remains of its
antiquity to be found.
AuGSBURGH isnowi however, ahandfpmecity;
die public buildings in general magnificent, and
adorned with fountains, -water engines of a curious
conftrudion, and ftatues. On the, whole, it is a
moft agreeable place to live in. " Touched," fays
Capt. Campbell, *' with the fenfations naturalto a
man who loves to fee his fellow-creatures happy (for
happy here, indeed, the inhabitants . feemed) my
iteart expanded to a fyftem of peace and harmoiiy, com-

OVK.RLAND JOUKNEV TO INDIA. 17
comprehending the whole globe : ray mind expa
tiated involuntarily on the bleffmgs and advantages
derived from fuch a fyftem ; and, taking flight from
the bounds of practicability, to -which our feeble na
ture is pinned on this earth, into the regions of fan
cy, had reared a fabric of Utopian mould, which, I
verily believe, exceeded in extravagance the works
of all the Utopian architedts that ever conftru£ted
caftles in the air.
"Hurried on by this delightful vifion, my
perfon paid an involuntary obedience to my mind ;
and the quicknefs of my pace increafing with the
impetuofity of my thoughts, I found myfelf, before
I was aware of it, within the Chapel- door of the
Convent of the Carmelites. Obferving my error, I
fuddenly turned <ibout, in order to depart, when a
friar, a goodly perfon of a man, elderly, and of a
benign afpedl, called me, and, advancing toward
me, alked, in terms of politenefs, and in the French
language-, why I was retreating fo abruptly : I was
confufed ; but truth is an enemy before whom cOn-
fuGon ever flies ; and I told him the whole of my
miftake, and the thoughts from which it arofe.
"The gosd father, waving further difcourfe on
the fubje£t, but with a fmile which I thought carried
a-mixture of benevolence for myfelf, and contempt
for my ideas, brought me through the church, and
fhewed

18

.ADVENTURES IN AN

ihewed me all the rarities of the place, partictN
larly pointing out to me, a's a great curiofity, a fun-,
diafmade in the form of a Madona, the head en-,
riched'widi rays and ftars, and in the hand a fcep-.
tre, which marked the hours.
" Quitting the Chapel, and going toward the
Refe6lory, the friar ftood, and, looking at me with-
a fmile of gaiety faid, " I have yet fomething to-
fhew you, which, while Lady Madona m^rks the
time, win. help us to pafs it ;. and, as it will make
its way with more force aiad fubtilty to your fenfes,;
tlian thofe I have yet fhew^n you, will be likely to.
be longer retained in remembrance.'^
He fpoke a few words in German, which off
xonrfe I did not underftand, to a vifion bearing the
jflbape of a human creature, who, I underftood, was
a lay-brother J and, turoing down a long alley,
brought me. to his celirwhere we Were foon follow
ed by the aforefaid lay-brother, with a large earthea
jug of liquor, two glafies, aad a plate with foma
delicately white bifcuit.
" You muft know," faid the friar, " tliat the
Convent of Carmelites at Augfburgh has for ages
been famed for beer unequalled in any part of the
world; and I have brought you here to have your
opinion ; for, being an Englifliman, you muft be a
judge

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 19
judge, the Britons being famed for luxury, and a
perfe6t knowledge of the fpavoir vlvre" He poured
out, and drank to me : it looked more like the
cleareft champaigne than beer. I never tafted any
thing to equal it ; and he feemed highly gratified by
the expreffions of praife which I laviftied upon it.
"After wehaddranka glafs each, "I have been
refletSling," faid the friar, " on the fingular flight of
fancy that diredited your fteps into this convent.
Your mind was difeafed, my fon ! and a propitious
fuperintending Power has guided your fteps to a
phyfician, if you will but have the goodnefs to take
the medicine he ofiers."
"I STARED with vifible marks of aftonifliment.
" You are furprifed," continued he; " but you
fhall hear ! When firft you difclofed to me thofe
fickly flights of your mind, I could on the inftant
have anfwered them : but you are young — you are
an Englifliman — two charadters impatient of re
proof: the dogmas of a prieft, I thought, there
fore, would be fufficiently difficult to be digefted of
themfelves, without any additional diftafte caught
from the chilling aufterity of a chapel."
" I LOOKED unintentionally at the earthen jug,
and fmiled."
" It

20 ADVENTURES IN AN
" It is very true," faid he, catching my Very in-»
moft thoughtis from the exprefSon of my cotmte-
nance, " it is very true ! good doftrine luay, at
certain times, and with certain perfons, be mord
effectually enforced under the cheering influence of
the fecial board, than by the authoritative declamai:.
tion and formal fandity of the pulpit ; nor am I,
Uiough, a Carmelite, one of thofe who pretend to
think, that a thing in itf<;lf good, can be made bad
by decent hilarity, and the animation :produced by
a moderate and wife ufe of the goods of this earth,"
" I WA s aftoniflied "-^
"You fell into a reverie," continued he, " proi-
duced by a contemplation of the happinefs of. a fo-
ciety exifting without any difference, and where no
human breath ftiould be wafted on a figh, no ear tor
tured witji a groan, ho tears to trickle, no griefs or
calamities to wring the heart."
" Yes,' father ! " faid I, catching the idea with
my former enthufiafm ; " that would be my wifti—
that my greateft, firft defjre."
" Then feeft thou," interrupted he, « the ex
tent of thy wifhj fuppofe you could realize it, which,
tliauk God ! you cannot."
« What {

overlaYid journet to inqia. 21
"What I thank God that I cannot? are thefe
your thoughts ?"
" Yes, my fon; and ere Madona^ marks the
progrefs of ten minutes with her fceptre, they will
be your's too."
" Impossible !"
" Hear me, my fon ! — Is not death a horrible
precipice to the view of human creatures ?"
"Assuredly," faid I; "the moft horrible — hu
man laws declare that, by reforting.to it for punith-
ment, as the ultimatum of all terrible inflidtions."
"When, then," faid he, " covered as we arc
with mifery, to leave this world is fo infupportable
to the human refledtion, what muft it be if we had
nothing but joy and felicity to tafte of in this life ?
Mark me, child i " faid he, with an'apimated zeal
that gave an expreffion to his countenance beyond
any thing 1 had ever feen : " the miferies, the ca
lamities, the heart-rendings, and the tears, wliich
are fo intimately interwoven by the great Artift JH
our natures as not to be feparated in a fingle inftance,
are in the firft place our Security of a future ftate,
and in the next place ferve to flope the way before
us, and, by gradual operation, fit our minds for
1 viewing

22 ..' j; ADVENTURES IN AN
viewing, with fome fort of fortitude, that hideous
chafm that lies between us and that ftate-r-death.
View thofe miferies, then, as the fpecial adls of
mercy and cotnmiferation Df a benificent Creator,
whor with every calamity, melts away a link -of that
earthly chain that fetters our wiftie^.to this. difmal
world. Accept his bleflJngs aiid his goods when he
fends them, with gratitude and enjoymeot: receive
his aflHidlions too, with as joyous acceptance, and as
hearty gratitude. Thus, and . not otherwife, you
will realize all your Utppian flights of defire, by
turning every thing to matter of comfort, and living
contested with difpenfatioiis which you ea-nnqt
alter, . and, if you could, would moft certainly alter
for the worfe."
"I sat abforbed io refledlion— the friar, after
fome paufe, .proceeded — '¦ ¦'
" ER'Rors arifing from Virtuous difpofirions and
the love of our fellow creatures, take their complex
ion from their parent motives, and are virtuous.
Your wiflies, therefore, my fon ! though erroneous,
merit reward, ,and I truft will receive it from that
Being who, fees i the recefles of the heart; and it
the truths I have told you have not failed to make
their way to your underftanding, let your adventure
of to-day imprefs thb incontrovertible maxim on
your mihd—i-fo: limited is man, fo imperfect in his

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 23
nature, that the extent of his virtue borders on
vice, and the extent of his wlfdom on error."
"I thought he was infpired; and, juft as he
got to the laft period, every organ of mine was
open to take in his words."
" Tis well, my fon 1 " faid he, "I perceive you
like my dodlrine : then (changing his manner of
fpeaking, his expreffive countenance the whole time
almoft anticipating his words) take fome more of
it," faid he gaily, pouring out a frefli glafs. I
pleaded the fear of inebriety.—^" Fear not," faid he ;
" the beer of this convent never hurts the intel-
lea." " Our converfation continued till near dinner
time ; for I was fo delighted, I fcarcely knew how to
fnatch myfelf away : fuch a happy mixture of piety
and pleafantry, grave wifdom and humour, I had
never met. At length, the convent-bell tolling, I
rofe ; he took me by the hand, and, in a tone of
the moft complacent admonition, faid, " Remem
ber, my child ! as long as you live, remember the
Convent of the Carmelites ; and in tlie innumerable
evils that certainly await you if you are to live long
the words you have heard from old friar Auguftine
will afford you comfort."
"Father!"

2t , ADVENTURES IN AN ,
' « Father !" returned I, " be afliired, I carry
away-from you a token that will never fuffer me to
forget the hofpitality, the advice, or the politenefs
of the' good father Auguftine. Poor as I am in na
tural means, I canHnake no other return than my
good wiihes, nor leave any impreflion behind me;
but as my efteem for you, and perhaps my vanity,
make me wifli' not to be forgotten, accept this (a
feal.ring, with a device in hair,' which I happened
to have on my finger ;) land whenever you look at it,
let.it remind you of one of thc)fei(I dare fay innu- ¦
merable) inftances, in , -which lyou' have contributed
to the happinefs and- improvement of your fellow-
creatures." " The good old man was affefiled, took the ring,
and attended me to the convent gate, pronouncing
many bleffmgs, and charging me to make Augf-
Jsurgh my way back again to England if pofiible,
and to take one glafs more of the convent ale."
.xt 3f!.:

e>ri A TiTp-CD

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. J5

CHAPTER THE SECOND.

TYROL COUNTRY. — STORY OF GENII LEAD
ING THE EMPEROR MAXIMILIAN ASTRAY. 
INSPRUCK.  BOLSANO.  TRENT.— BASS ANO.
 VENICE.  CONCUBINAGE MORE SYSTEMA
TICALLY COUNTENANCED IN VENICE THAN
IN LONDON.  TRIESTE.  CAPT. CAMPBELL
LOSES HIS SERVANT AND INTERPRETER. 
SAILS FOR ALEXANDRIA.  ADVENTURE
WITH A LADY AT ZANTE.  ARRIVES AT
ALEXANDRIA. — -CYPRUS.  ALEPPO.

'L,

(EAVING Augftjurgh," continues Captain
Campbell, " I travelled through Bavaria a long way
before I reached the Tyrol country, of the na
tural beauty of which I had heard much, and
which I therefore entered with great expeita-
tlons of that fublime gratification the beauties of
Nature never fail to afford me. I was not difap-
-pointed; indeed, my warmeft expedlations were
exceeded." The firft thing that ftrikes a traveller from Bava
ria,, on entering it, is the fort of Cherink, built
between two inacceffible rocks, which feparate
C Tyrol

36 ADV.ENTURE.S IN -AW --J.
Tyrol from the bifliopric of Freifingen. So am
has Nature provided for the fecurity of this cour
againft theincurfion of an enemy, that there is
a pafs whieh'leads-'to it That is , Hot through fc
narrow "defile between mountains almoft inac
fible; and on the rocks and brows of thofe pal
the Emperor has conftru6^ed forts and citadels,
advaiitageoufly+placed) that .iliey command all
valleys aoid avenues beneath^
'Ab'ter. a variety of windings 'and "tiirm
-through-mountains of ftupendeus height and aw
afpeft, 'he began fo defcend, 'and "efntered
m6ft delightful valley he had dver "faeKeld-^de
long, and aBove"a mile inhreadth — furtounded w
enormous piles of mountains, and diverfified -w
the alternate beauties of nature arid cuStrvation,
as to form an -union rarely to be met with, a«d
light -at once the -eye of the farmer, -tod thte fai
of him -who has a true trite for rural -wlldn
FrOin the heagjitsin-deffcending, die whole ippea
in all its -glory; the beaxttifuUy river Inniglid
through it -lon^tudinally., its -banks -ftudded v(
the moft romantic little viHsges, -while a iiumbei
inferior ftreams were ' feen winding in diffei
courfes, and haftening to pour their tribute into
befom.
f He*

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 57
" Here," fays bur traveller, " I felt my heart
overwhelmed with tranfport, which all the works
of art could never infpire : here nature ruflied irre-
¦fiftlble upon my fenfes, and, making them captive,
exafled their acknowledgment of her fupremacy :
here vanity, ambition, lufl of fame and power,
and all the tinfelled, gaudy, frippery, to which
habit and worldly cuftom enflave the mind, retired
to make way for fentiments of harmoiiy, purity,
fimplicity, and truth : here Providence feemed to
fpeak an language' moft perfuafive, " Come, filly
man, leave the wild tumult, the endlefp ftruggle,
the glittering follies, the falfe tmd fpurious pleafures
'which artifice creates, to feduce you from the
true — dwell here — and in the lap of nature- ftudy
me." Here, oh ! here, exclaimed I, in a tranfport
¦tvhich bereft me, for the time, of every other
confider-ation, here will I dwell for ever. The
charm was too finely fpun, to "Withftand the hard
tugs of-fa£t ; and all its, precious delufions vaniflied
before a hoft of gloomy truths — deranged affairs — ¦
femiiy far pff, with the diftance daily inc'rfeafing—
the hazards and the hardftiips of a long- untried
journeys — and the Eaft Indies, with all its horrors,
in the rear. I hung my head in forrow ; and, of-'
fering up a prayer to proted rhy family, flrengthen
myfelf, and bring us once more together in fome
^ot heavenly as that I paffed through, was pro
ceeding on in a ftate of dcjeftion proportionate to
>' C 2 my

28 ' ¦ ADVENTURES IN AN
my previous trahfports, when I was roufed hy my
poftillion, who, pointing to a very high, fteep,
rock, . defired me to take notice of it. 1 did fo ';
but feeing nothing very remarkable in its appear
ance, aflied him what he meant by diredling my at
tention to it. — He anfwered me in the following
manner, which, from, the fingularity of the narra<-
tive, and his ftrange mode of telling it, I think it
would injure. to take out of his own words : I will,
therefore, endeavour, as well as I can, to give a
literal tranflation of it ; and, indeed, the imprefr
•fion it made on my memory was fuch, fhat, I ap
prehend, I fhall not materially differ from his
¦words :
" You muft know. Sir, (for every one in the
wofl3\nows it) that all thefe mountains aroundus are
the abodes of good and evil fpirits or genii — the latter
of whom are continually doing every malicious thing
they can devife, to injure the people of the country '
.  fuch as leading them affray — fnlothering them in
the fnow — killing the cattle by throwing them dovvn
precipices — nay, when they can do no worfe, dry
ing up the milk in the udders of the goats — and,
foiTietimes, Interfering between young men and their
fweethearts, and flopping their marriage Ten
thoufand curfes light upon them ! I fliould myfelf
h;ive been married two years ago, and had two
ciiildren to-day, but for their fchemes. In fliort,

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 29
Sir, if it were not for the others — the good ones—
who are always employed (and the bleffed Virgin
knows they havt; enough on their hands) in prevent
ing the mifchiefs of thofe devils, the whole place
would be deftroyed, and the coimtry left without a
living thing, man or goat!"
• Here I could not, tor the life of me, retain
my gravity any longer, but burft into an immode
rate fit of laughter, which fo difconcerted and of
fended him, that he fuddenly refufed to proceed with
the ftory any farther, but continued marking his
forehead (his hat off) with a thoufand croffes, ut
tering pious ejaculations, looking at me with a.
mixture of terror, diftruft, and admiration, and
every now and then glancing his eye afliance to
wards the hills, as if fearful of a defcent from the
evil fpirits.
My curiofity was awakened by the very ex
traordinary commencement of his narrative ; and I
determined, if poffible, to hear it out : fo affuring
him that I meant nothing either of flight or wicked-
nefs by my laughter — that I had too ferious ideas of
fuch thing to treat them with levity— ^and, what was
more convincing logic with him, promifing to
Teward him for it- — he proceeded with his ftory as
"Jfollows :
C3 "We LI-,

3.Q .AP,V.RNrWR3,!<.IN, AN. •• ¦
" Well, Si^,. you fay you, are not fpprting-
with thofe fpirits — and fortunate it,is..fQr yo.u,: at
all. events,. Saint, John^qf God be our guide, a§d '
bring us fafe to Infpi;uck. Juft fo. the gr^at Ma-x-i-.
milian was wont to laygh.at them ; and you, fliall
hear how he was puniflsed for it; — and that wa^ thjj
ftory I was about to tell you. The , Emperor
Jyjaximilian,. the glory, of the w«rld (he is nowi in
the lap of th^blelJcd.Virgjn-in paradife) qnc^e-oOf^''
time, before he was, Emperor, that is to fay; wli&t>
he- was.. Aichduke, Wfc^, alyways, laiighing-^ zf-^ thf
qountry.pe.ople'sjfcftjs.of thqfi^ fpirits—- and-aq oli
father of-the*church fqrewarnfd him. t^jbewArej.left
he, Ihould.. fuffer- for his raflinef?-:. fc oap-- da;y) he
went. o,ut huntings and., at, thi? foot qf t^at« I'gAUi^
t?tin.a ipoft be.autifpl ch?:mQi^, ftlirtf^i before • him-s
.hjJ.fljptat. it, ai^d, miffed i,l-T-(thei, firft; fliqt-.h^ h:»d.
miffed for many years, which you know wa^twarftr
ing enough to him) — however, he followed, fhoot-
iog at, and, mi^fippig- it, tl\e, aj;^imal flanding- every
noWfandtthen fill-he qajnae up-w-ltbin.- fhpt.qfitt: thus
h^- cq?\tii>ped^ till n?ar ni^t,, ^yl¦^efl t}te goat- dif^pr
£eared.of,a,fiid(Jeti, ajad .hf^ft3/.H\^ hii:tifelfi hvi'iedji as
it, were,, iuj tl^, bowsels; of a-ffiiqii^ntttin :.- he- ^i^?^
vff^r^HtQ fiRcl-his- vv.ay out, butiiivvajin ;- every, IJep
Ij^ tpok. led hinj mqrq aflray,. and. he; was -for- twp
day*,W3nderlpg about,' Chrift fay.qusj' ir!,thq ffjgh^
ful hollows of thofe mountains, living allthe titgs
on wild berries: on the fcc'ond night hq bethought
¦,,'' 1 ^ ' himfelf

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO TNDIA. 81'
himfelf of his want of faith, and of the faying of
eld Father Jerome ; and he fell on his knees, and
wept and prayed all night; and the Virgin heard
his prayers, he being a good mail, andj above all,
an Emperor — (God blefs you and me ! we fhould
have perilhed.) — In the morning a beautiful' young
man, dreffed in a peafant's habit, came up to him,
gave him victuals and wine, and' defired him' to
fbllow him, which he did, you may be fure, joy
fully — but, oh ! bJeffed Virgin ! think what his
furprife muft have been, when, getting again into
the plain of the mountain, the young. man difap-
peared and vaniflied all of a fuddfcn, juft at- the foot
of that fttep rook which r^fliewed- you, aud'which
ever finee goes by the name of the Emperor's rock —
You fee- what a- dang.?rou8' plkce it is, and* what
A^nger-eFus- fpirits 'they- muft Be' that, would' not fpare
even the holy Roman Emperor. In my mindj the
beft way is to fay nothing againft thofe things, as
foma faitl#r«-pe©pte: d©^ and-te wwfhip the Virgin
apd'laeep a.gaod coafbiencse, anduhen one' will-have
ife&lefsjtsufeaR" B'K- the: time- the man had ended' his! i)(»rwdVB,
dteyi were in fight of'Inl^rucle, when hi,s paileiJger
annoyed* and terrified him afrefli, by, laughing; im-
modfeiiat^y at the end of his ftory-^but^ atoned in
fome meafure for it, by giving him iKilf a' florin.
r
C4. Ok

-32 ADVENTURES IN AN
On inquiring at Infpruck, he found that Maxi
milian had a£tually loft his way in the mountain,
and had-been condufted out of it by a peafant, -vi^ho
left him fuddenly ; the reft was an exaggerated tra
ditionary tale, arifing from the fuperftitious fears of
the country people.
InsprU/CK, though a fmall city, is handfome
and agreeable, ftanding iij a very beautiful valley,
furrpunded . with mountains; which, -yvhiie their
lower parts are well cultivated, are capped on the
tops with perennial fnows. The caftle, formerly
the refidence of the Auflrian princes, is ftately and
magnificent, adorned within with fine paintings,
and decorated without by natural and artificial'
fptJntains, flatues, pleafant garden?, groves,, walks,
and cov^ed -gallerks, leading to five different
churches.
f' LeavIijIG Inlprqcjs, where nothing occurred
Ip require, mqndpn, he, .proceeded on his journey^
and foon enteired the mountains, which 4re. there of
a terrible height. He was the beft part of a day
afcending them": 'as he gpt near -the top, he was
fliewn, by his driver, the fpbt -where' Ferdinand,
JKing pf Hungary, and the EmJ)eror, "Charles thq
Fifthj met, y/hei\ he returned from Africa, in the
year 1. 620. ". ; It is marked with' an infcription to that
effed, and has grown into a little village, which from

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA, SS
from that circumftance bears the name of the Sa
lutation. Although this mountain, called Brememberg
.(or Burning-hill) is covered with fnow for nine
months in the year, it is inhabited to the very top,
and produces corn and hay in abundance : at the
higheft part there is a poft-houfe, a tavern, and a
chapel, where the traveller is accommodated with
frefh horfes, provifions, and if he choofes, a
mouthful of prayers. " I availed myfelf," fays the
Captain, " of the two firft ; but the latter being
not altogether in my way, I declined it, for which
I could perceive that I was, by every mouth and
eye m the place, configned to perdition as a
heretic." Just at this fpot there is a fprlng of water whiclt
falls upon a rock, and divides into two currents,
which at a, very fmall diftance, affume the appear
ance, and, in fa£l, the magnitude too, of very
large rivers. The mountain is at fome times diffi
cult to pafs, at others abfolutely imprafticable. He
was fortunate, however, in this refpeft ; for he got
over it without any very extraordinary delay, and
:0n his way was regaled with the moft delicious ve-
nifon that he eyer tafted in his life; it was faid to be
the flefli of a kind of goat.
C 5 Although

S^ ; AliVafiJIiUjCft&Si liNi 4N
Aj\lJH>o,UGHi i.ti.-is. but thirtyrfive^ miles.; froi
Infpruck to Brifen, it was late when he reache
the latter : and as if contained nothing worth eithe
the tfoiibfe; or delay atteB#»:^-thfi.fearch.of:it; h&fi
Ojutf the, n^pft morning, andj travelling with, hig
iflQUHt^insfe-on one fid^-,, and a. river, all along u.po
the pflier;, arrived, at a- town, calledaBolfaai^* in^tl:
Ijifl^opric of; Trqnt. The comitr^, all? along wj
thickly inhabited,, and the mountains-. psrfe6tly cu
tjva,ted-afldjmapuredleven to their higheft. tops. 0
tiering tiie valley: of Bolfano,. tbf air became ol
wjftufly.fweet, deli^tfjulj and. temperate ; the vin(
3?ardsi the, trees and fliru,bs, olLves, mulberrie
AwliQWfi<and rofes, &c. all ma^Jung the moft luxi
xiatit ve^tatioi|.
BoLSANo is a fmall, yet extremely neat ar
jileafent. town-r— but liotJiingi about it pleafed'hinst
Hiuek as their- vineyards, -^which.- ara plained
terraces, along^tibfi^fidefi' of the hill^, and are ft^m'
ilitO' the moft- beautifuh anboufSj o»e row abiE^
F^SiOm Bolfapoi to. ISretife' is-^ M&y^aci& mi^%
^laod day's jouiaoieyi:. alnjoftr tjies -wJiolS' oft it< h
tisffough; l3ie -vsaJkyi of Bolfano^ a moft fruitful-: a
pleafant— dnd&ed^ del^ht&l ready whidli ma
the day's journey appeasiiBypliflioMeiktltswv'it-rea
was. -J Ti

OVERLAND JOURNEY T0» INDIA. SB
The bifliopi-ic of Trent is about fixty mile'*.
long, and forty broad — fertile, abundant in wine,-
oil, fruit, and pafture — and pleafant, the beautiful
river Adige meandering through the wiiole of it
from north to fouth.
This, city, though not very large, in circuihfe-
rence, is populous. The high, mountains which>
furround jt, fubjedii: it to the incleipeiicies of either.
feafon, rendering the air exceffiv.el-y hot in.fummer^
a^id extremely coldin. winter : befides whidi, they;.-
easpofe the town, to dreadful, inumiations-^the tor
rents, that; defcend; from. the mountains-being fome--.
times fo. impetuous, as to rolf^ large pieces of roclu
with, them into it, and having feverali times laid)
wafte the. whole. place.
The people of Trefat' fpeak promifcuouflyj-
and indifferently, both the German, and Italian
languages. The next.ftag.e was Baflano, a-. town in the ter-^
ritory of Vincenza in .Italy, fituated aCthe end'of ai
very long, narro-w valley i- Ifiis wateredbytheriver'
Brenta, which - waflies that very ri^h, fertile, fe*
rene, healthy, and- plentiful diftria of ItaIyi fo*
celebrated for ¦ its admirable wines, as well as for
its fine pafturei-gj-jOfind, rich .corn fields, and prodj--
giOBs aburKlance of ganie^r.j^attle-,. and' mulberry^.*
. - - C 6 trees ;

3i& I ADVENTURES IN AN
trees; from all which it is called the garden and
fhambles of Venice.
., T.Hi next day he arrived at an early hour at
Venice. - On his approach to this place, he was much
delighted with its appearance. Its ftately fteeples
and noble buildings feemed as if juft" emerging from'
die fea, and ffoating on th^ furfaice of it ; and it re-:
quired, fays he, no great ftretch of fancy to ima
gine, that it undulated with the agitated -waves of
its parent the Adriatic. On all ' the furrounding
coafts, nature a^id art feemed to have vied with
each other in pouring the greateft profuficrh of tlieir
gifts, while thoufands of mafts, fcattered like
forefts over the furrounding bay*, denoted that Ve*
nice, not content with her own, fhared in the
wealth and luxuries of ottier climes.'
It is, indeed, difiicult to conceive a more ex
traordinary and pleafing appearance than this city
makes at a diftance, whether it be approached from
the fea or from the' continents ' Built not like towns
in Holland, where immerife moles arid walls' pufii
ithe fea forward, and incroach on its dominion, it
ftands on piles ene6ted in the fea; and the founda
tions of the houfes almoft touching the water, give.
it the appearance of boating on its furface. Th^
. -tr"' 'T '' ileeples

OVERLAND JOURNEV TO INDIA. 37
fteeples" are feen at fea at the diftance of thirty
miles ; and the profpeft becomes more beautiful the
nearer it is approached — prefenting in many views
the ai^earance of floating iflands.
To ereA a city thus upon the water, while fo
many thoufands of acres ftand unoccupied, at firft
fight feems extraordinary — but all thefe great and
ftrange deviations from the ordinary path prefented
by Nature, have their fource in neceflity ; and it is
not till long after the neceflity has been firft la
mented, and afterwards obviated, that experience
comes into aid, and demonftrates, that, from her,
fecurity and utility have often arifen. Thus it is
with Venice, who, fortified by her local fituation
(the effort of neceflity), fits fecurc, and bids defi
ance to the. world.
The place where Venice now ftands, is fup
pofed to have been formerly a marfliy ground, on
which the Adriatic fea had gradually incroached,
leaving the more elevated parts of it above water,
and thereby forming a vaft number of little iflands,
hence called Lagunes : on thefe the fifliermen of
the neighbouring fliores built their hutS ; and when
Italy was invaded by the Goths under Alaric, and
afterwards by that barbarous race the Huns under
Attila, both of whom fpread ruin and defolation
wherever they came, vaft numbers of people from the

3^ ¦ i.R.-.s*fl«!«E»Bt«SBS3 I» Aflp
th%,d^-cvtmj*fie»t;.fliQres of tlmAklriaitio, partieularl'jn
frpjn, I^adiia,.a»d)Aquilfc-i3, fftdij^dlqn.andibroughp
aj^ifj'g^ with them, imnraasfi^weallihi Hpretbewl&ids
the firft foundatioasf. on feKenty-twojdiftiM^.litt-lei
iflands, and certainly, with liuts, of a city which af
terwards, flood neaily; fqeeaarcift iio dsei'navab and
Gornmercial: -wwiidt. As:- tljofe iflandp.. wer.€ btiilt ,
npqn, and: heqame over^peiopltdj; they- gradually,
jijU^^d) fpSW^rd; their piles* andi built: ii,pQ<nj thiimi-
^gaiq, till thaSwiialej. becfame OBe'vaffecity, ext&nii--
ifltg to ^fliaojomoreiof'-tho'fe-iflands beyofld^ho origi-
ij;aJifeven*y-t!wio.. J)ltS it was ittdtfatedf. ijv a g^ea^ meaftiiB, for. it»
4fq.- and imp.artanc€t toi. the oSmmeas;q of. th'fe &sSf(
whish thj^n;-\5jgs,-cawisda on , by. way--of the Rfei S^
and Alexandria ; fo when the pafligB>'.by» th&3©^pa>
of Good Hope was difcovered, that trade declined,
q^V(e^i9)9-.^efiliiw4»grBduai%" aiong/vfflithiit.. ¦ ;.
*f-p.K.,oF,i,iq;iieT!E,: though the peaptei of: .Londin
afpj" fay^Si Captain; Campbell,: 'f 1 wills not* ailowi
that it is fq viciisuj;a:ciLy,ascVfiniGei That thkjis
a^ in, ]^ondDn,ai34;. -indeed; in. ^IkcaptalS', indt'^
viduals who hayierea.qbed;the;aEmq'-of fliamplefs di"
hauchery andf depravity, it -would, be- fo©l*fl\ to
d^n,y: hujli that. c(jQ(njLhin»geti&.pi3u9ifejiiiH the fimn©
qgeo^wftiy, fp ggiieially., or fo.fyfteBaatB«ja'lly< a«-at
^^%;' .n,0 . oi>e vsiJii veatete t<^' a&rQ 1 .tru-ft^ dw
day

OVERDANO- JOU»Nft-!f TO PNDIA. .^9^
day of depravity and indelicacy is far removed fromi
us, that will exhibit a Britifli mother arranging- a,
plan of accommodation for her fan, and bargaining
for a young virgin to commit to hi& embiaces — as:
they do in Venice — not as wif^, but as concubine.
On that one cuftom of the Venetian ladies Iireft.my
pofition ; and have no hefitation to avow, that all
the private concubinage of London, amounts not; to
fuch a flagrant confummation of moral turpitude
andtfhamelefs indelicacy as thatprafticeto which I
aUude."* The Venetian men are well-featured and well-
ihaped^the women, well-fliaped, beautiful, and
it is faid, witty: but our traveller had that- within
which robbed every. obje<Sl of its charms. In fliort,
not all the beauties and novelty of the place, not
all the pleafures that flare the tra-feller in the face
and folicit his enjoyment, not all the exquifite
Ipoka of the ladies, could roufe his mind from, its
melancholy, or fix his attention. He' grew weary
of Venice before he had' been many hours in it,
and determined to feize the firft' opportunity that
offered for his departure.
He had arranged; in his own mind, a -plan to
proceed to Latachea, a confiderable fea port town
• Roger Afcham, in his " School mailer," fay^, " I, fa-w in one
citie (Venice) more lij>eptie io- tone, than I ever y£t heard tell of
ij(i,oudonjn,nine yeare."
Editor,

46 ADVENTURES IN AN
in Syria, and thence to Aleppo : whence, as it was
a great eaftern mart, he entertained hopes th^t he
fliould find a fpeedy, or at leaft a certain convey
ance, by a caravan, acrofs the deferts, to Bafforah,
and little doubted but that he fhould find a v.effel at
fome of the Venetian ports, either bound or be
longing to a fea port of fuch commercial confe-
quence, in which he could procure a paflage. But
in . this he was difappointed ; for, on the fulleft
inquiry that he coidd make, he found that there
was only one ftiip ready to failj and no probability
of any other for a confiderable time after.
He did every thing he could to avail himfelf'of
this conveyance, but was difappointed, owing to a
young lady being paffenger, who was daughter to
the owner of the veffel ; and the old gentleman did
" liot approve of an Englifli officer being of the party
•with his daughter. Captain Campbell ufed every
argument without fuccefs,, urging the,refident, Mr.
Strange, whom he defcribes as having behaved very
politely to him during his ftiort refidence at Venice,
to intereft himfelf about it. He likewife entreated
Mrs. Strange,- an affable, pleafant woman, to exert
her endeavours, and made her laugh, by propofing
to her to give him a certificate of his behaviour,
and to pledge herfelf to the old geritlemian that
the happinefs or honour of his family would not be
difturbed by him during the paffage.
Hearing,

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 411
Hearin-g, however, that a {hip lay at Triefte,
which was to fail thence for Alexandria in Egypt,
he determined to embrace that opportunity, and,
inftead of his former intended route, go to Grand
Cairo, thence to Suez, and fo down the Red Sea,
by way of Mecca to Moca, and thence to Arden,
where company's veffels, or India country traders,
are always to be found going to one or other of the
Britifli fettlements.
He accordingly fet out for Triefte, with all the
impatience of a fanguipe mind, anxious to change
place, eager to pufli forward, and full of the new
route he had laid down — the charms of which, par
ticularly feeiilg Grand Cairo, tlie land of Egypt,
and the pyramids, were painted by his imagination
in all the glowing exaggerated colours of romance.
The captain of the veflel was then at Venice, and
he accompanied him to Triefte, which is about
fixty miles from Venice.
Soon after his arrival at Triefte, he had the
mortification to find, that the veffel was by^ no
means likely to keep pace with the ardour of his
mind, and that, owing to fome unforefeen event,
her departure was to be delayed ; fo, after a few
of thofe effufions which may be fuppofed on fuch
an occafion to efcape a man of no very cool temper
hanging on the tenter hooks of expedtation, he
found-

*2|. AtW.-ENTURpS-. J» A.W
found it neceffary to fit dotWin, and- patienfiy' "Vi^ait
the revolution of time for an event whjich nothing
could either impede or accelerate. = •
Capt. CampheM had prooured-^a fervant to at*
tend binou on his. journey-, -who, fror» a ihorf ob*
fervation,'of;.him,- piKSmifed'to contribute very. coii»-
fideijably to his. comfort,, his con-venience, andf in
deed, to his fecurity, as he was apparently hoftefti
fincere, adlive, and clever in his duty, mafter of
£^^i:al Ikngu^Si and. paittoalarl]^ of ite Uk^utf
Frunr^ a mixture of lasigv^Ei^f peculiarjlyi uf^t^t
i)»:tijiiaardli ng ^thtau^ ,.t^ m&i ' !
'f: , ^.¦.rt ¦ ' 1- :: ,-: 1. r:'.
^imx>wi&> tHab. he- -wae-liiwliyn. to:- be> cleI^S>ait
TtrififtS}, aiu3!C®i>«!Eiyingi i^trin tjjisij ints^ji-nf.fettBfft
feom, Engl^^k &^whiefai,he moft; arden*ly-.te*]^edi
SlJghljhiaaaasarsi'He^aig'Vbnidie, Im ii@pr«id@Ti|t^r and
^gBp6*luou%,<^fent thisi lBr\u)infe to Veniee^- ffer*. the
purpofe of taking them, up,'- and .bringing^ ttafiro' t»
him. But the reader may judge of his feelings
Tgjjieni.lle.f&uad)! almaft imfsnediately, after hi^de-
pBTttjre, that the veffel -was preparing to. faih and-
tliat he. nruft: either dofe his. pai&ge or his . fer-vann
Jlnxious.though.h&was to getfbrwardj and grievs-
CTus tbou^ his fonnei-i dday hadnbeen to: hjm, ha
Itefitatad whiqh to- dp; but^ prudence, for oacej
pBQVailed: oaGp- ioolii^tion.;. and[ he -determinrdi at
M, aHeatsj.tq, depart,, under all tiie. embairaffineni "attending

OVERL^AjND iJQURN-E-Jl -r,0' I.NDIA. 4S.
attending the -want- of a f&rvant''a»d linguifl-, and
all the poignant feelings of having- been- accef-i
fary to the dilappointment, and perhaps the. injury,
of a poor fellow, whom he really conceived to be a
perfon of merit,
In the, paffage to ¦ -Alexandria, they touched; at
2ante, an ifland% on, the co.aft of Greece, belonging
to Veiiice, and anciciiilyt called Zacynthus; It is
about fi,(i;y mil^s, iti clrcuitifcreuicg, and contains
fifty. tboMfan4 inhabitants-.
Never before had. he: tafl5ed5any:.tfalng.ecfHaIito
the delicious flavour of the fruits of this illand —
th^ grapes,, e-xq^i§te> and-.tbefTpttekuns ands peaches
of prodigioua fi?,e, andiuneqjialkd: flawouK, Th«
ifland jsi abundantly fruitful, in wiqai curraats^ oilj
figs, apd corn, but is: very fubJeiSfe to- eaythqu^es*
Nea,n. to the. fea-port which they eutfred is as-grciat
a: curiofity. ill nature asiis perhsp%aiiy where' to ba
found. TwQ-, fpring., walls, of clear- frefli water
throwup larg^ pieces of real pitch, in fuch-quanti-
tie.s, .that, it; is .faidj the people. coUeB:, one- yea»
with anpther, one hundred barrels of it, whiebthey
u,fe-in, paying, their fliip.piBg andboats.
" Ai; the time,;' faas oim .traveller, '' whoi'- 1
fet out npqn my. jouiTiey ov.erland to- Itidias I' was
(thpugh, marrip,il, and tfaa- father of children), very
young.

Or ADVENTURIES IN AN
ybung and naturally of a fanguine eonftitution: my
attachment to the fair fex was jio way diminiflied
by a military education ; and a warmth of temper,
an -ardent fenfibility of mind, and a frank unfufpi-
cious difpofition^ left me but too often to regret the
facility with which I yielded to the charms of wo
men. But the regret for each error was -wilfully -
fmothered in vain determinations of amendmeilt —
•and the promifed amendment again broken in upon
by fome new error. Thus it was, till riper years"
and circumftances ©f weight ftrengthened my realon,
and gave it in fome greater degree that dominion it
fhould have over my aftions."
Constituted by nature and education, as has
befen juft mentioned, he landed in the charming
ifland of Zante, where Nature herfelf feisms to
have confpired againft chaftity — inaking the very air
breathe nothing but tranfport and delight. There
he met a young lady, a native-of England — ex
tremely, pretty, highly accompli flied, and capti
vating in the extreme : fhe had been at Venice for
her education — was a complete' miftrefs of mufic,
and , expreffed an intention of following it profef-
iionally on her arrival in England, whither fhe was
going paffenger in a veffel bound thither from
Zante. To have accidentally met with a native of
England, even of his own fex, in fuch a diftant
corner of liie world, under fuch circumftances as
' his,

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA," A5
his,' juft efcaped from the uneafy life he had for fome
time led, muft have filled him with joy: allowance,
therefore, may be made for his feelings on meeting
this young lady, and for thinking of fome expedi
ent to prevent their feparation.
She laboured, perhaps, under the preffure of
feelings as difagreeable as his own, and expreffed
her fatisfaftion at meeting with a countryman fo
very unexpe6ledly. Referve was foon thrown off
on both fides : they entered into a converfation in
terefting and confidential, which increafed his
anxiety to keep her with him ; and in order to per-
fuade her to accompany him, he pointed out in the
ftrongeft colours poffible, the great advantages fhe
might derive from her accomplifliments in India ;
her mufical talents alone, exclufive of her various
captivating qualities, would be an inexhauftiblp
mine of wealth. In fliort, he fo very eagerly en
forced his propofal to accompany him, and tjme
was fo very fliort, that {he confented, and in two
hours they had arranged every thing for their de7
partiire together ; and here," fays he, " with
fhame and forrow I confefs (nor fliall eyer ceafe to
regret it) • that this eclairciffement commimicated ¦
the firft ray of fubftantial pleafure to my heart
that it had fealt fince I left London."
Thus

4'e XDVENTUSES 'tN AN
¦ Thus far their prOJeiSt, failed before t1he wi
wayward imagination had decked it out in the a-
alluring drapery that fancy could fabricate,
j)revetited them from feeing the impra6l:ica:bility
it, as it ftood in the nakednefs of -trtith ; and^wl
it came to be carried into execution, a th'ouf
difliculties occurred, that the -wildnefs of p^alE
and the warmth of their feelings, had before c
cealed from their view.
In the firft place, it was neceffary for her to
*ain the confent of a lady to whofe care and pro
¦tion fhe was committed: in the Jiext place, accc
modations were to be procured for her in the fj
fliip with him — a circnniftance of mdft ai'duous
ficulty^ fbefides which, a 'variety of other imp<
taents — infuperable, indeed^^concutred To frufti
their views, '^nd put an end to^ the proje£t.
If 'his pleafure at meeting her was great, his
g'fiifli at parting with her was inexpreffible.
had'onee more to face the world alone ; and,
^e ¦ fe'cond ' day of his fojouming at -Zanfe, (
fcarked with "a heavy heart, aiid fgt fail for Al
andria. The laft difappoi'tftftieiit we undergo, feenis
ways the heavieft ; and this at Zante he thought
%feat itime to be the greateft of his life. But

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 47
hever refleiSted, as he has finee d6ne, what ferious
mifdiiefs, what endlefs miferies, whatlofs of time,
of means, and of reputation, he may by that pro
vidential difappointment have efcaped — for thefe
are the almoft never-failing confe-quences of fuch
affairs ; and it not unfrequently happens, that the
fyren who dekides a man into her fnares, is die
very perfon who infti£ts the deadly wounds into his
heart. On his arrival ^t Alexandria, he found, to his
frefli mortification, that the plague was raging all
over Egypt ; and, as if this was not of itfelf fuf-
ficient to block x\p his intended route, an irruption
of the Arabs, who in formidable bodies infefted all
the roads, put a period to his hopes of feeing Grand
Cairo, and 'viewing the curiofities of that country,
which all who, likeus,'have the Bible put early into
their hands, are taught to venerate as foon as they
are tailght to reaid.
"Here," fays he, «' I thought to-have viewed *fe
pyramids, -whofe antiquity, origin, er intended ufe,
have baffled the leJt'rned and ing&i^iPus inquiries of fo
many ages — of beholding Motint Sinai, the ftorife of
Mofes, the track of the Ifraelites, all of which are faid
to be clearly poifitedout,and:geogrc'iphy by that means
brought into the fupport of facred hiftory. I'hefe,
and many things,! did wifli to fee— -they dre Vvotth it:

48 ADVENTURES IN AN
it : but I have had fince reafon to believe, that my il
luck was not fo great as I then thought it; for th<
fearch is dangerous, and made prodigioufiy expen
five by the exadlions of the Mahomedan magiftrates
It is as well, therefore, to travel over this country
in books, which afford us good information, an(
more of it, at an eafier rate than it can bepurchafec
in the country."
Alexandria was built by Alexander the
Great, foon after the overthrow, of Tyre, aboui
333 years. before Chrift, and is fituated on the Me
diterranean, tvvelve miles weft of ^that mouth oi
the Nile, anciently called Canopicum. A verj
extraordinary circumftance is related, as a prooi
of the fuddennefs of Alexander's refolution to builc
it: after he had ,dire(Sted the number of pubKc
ftrufiures, and fixed the places where they were'tc
ftarad, there were no inftruments at hand proper foi
-marking out the walls, according to the cuftom o:
thofe times : upon this, a workman advifed the
king to colle6t. what meal was among the'foldiers,
and fift it' in- lines upon the , ground, in , order tc
mark out the circuit of the walls : the advice was
followed, ^nd the king's foothfayer interpreted Ii
to be a prefage of the future profperity and abun
dance of the city. This prophecy was certainlj
afterwards verified; for it foon became the empo
rium of commerce,, of .arts, and of fcience. , ,

OVERLAND J0t)RNEY TO INDIA. 49
At Alexandria our traveller remained about
twelve days, till, wearied of the confined ftate he
lived in on account of the plague, he refolved to
devife fome means, if poffible, to get aw^y, and. at
length hired a boat to carry him- to the ifland of Cy
prus, from whence he concluded, tliat he fliould find
jio fort of difficulty in procuring a conveyance to
Latichea, and fo proc^eed by his firft intended route.
He accordiirgly arrived at Cyprus in perfeiSl fafety,
where, to his great forrow and aftonifliment, he
found that an epidemic fever, equal in its effects to
a plague, prevailed : there was, however, no al
ternative; he mlift run the nik, and he difmiffed the
boat that carried hlin from Alexandria.
Although the etymologies of the names of
places are of very little importance, and moft
frequently" uncertain. Captain Campbell thinks
it probable that the learned are right, who affert
that the name of tliij ifland is derived from
Kvxfioc (Cyprus) or Cyprefs — with which fhrubs it
abounds. It had, in ancient times, a number of
other names — one of which was Paphia, whence
Venus, who was worflilpped in it, was called tlie
Paphian Goddefs. It lies thirty miles weft of
Syria, whither he was bound, ftretching from the
fputh-weft to the north-eaft, one hundred and fifty
miles in length, and feventy in breadth-in the wideft
pai t pf it.
D The

56 ADVENTURES IN AW
The aii- of this ifland is now for the moft parf
unwhdlefome, owing to the dqiiips arifing from the
many fens and marfhes with which tire country
abounds : while, there being "but few fprings or
rivers in the ifland, the want of a plentiful fall of
rain at proper periods diftreffes the inhabitants
very much in another way ; and by means of the
uncultivated flate of the country, they are greatly
infefled with poifdnous reptjleS of various kinds.
^-
After only forty-eight hours fky at Cyprus,
he hired another boat, and proceeded for L'atichea,"
a confiderable fea port town of Syria, built on a
promontory of land, which, running into the fea,
occafions its being continually refreflied with
breezes.
, '- ¦ .- .,- »
Fortune, who had hitherto been not very li
beral in her difpenfations, now favoured him ; for,
juft as he arrived at'Latichea, a caravan was pre- ;
-paring. The conful of the Turkifli company at
•Cyprus received him with great, politenefs and hof
pitality — gave him a letter to the refident at Lati--
chea ; and by his inftruftion and affiftance, after a
very fliort flay, Capt. Campbell fet out on his way
to Aleppo with the caravan.
.As our ¦ traveller aftei-wards takes, an opportu- ^
nity particularly., to defcribe' the nature of thefe car ^

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 51
ravans, we fhall, for the prefent, only obferve,
that this was compofed of no other beafts of burden
than mules and affes, of which there were not lefs
than three or four hundred in number.
Mounted on a mule, then, he travelled along,
well pleafed with the fertile appearance of the
country, and delighted with the ferenity of the air.
They -were near ten days on the road ; during which
time they travelled only in 'the morning early; and
in the heat of the day repofed under the fhade of
trees. On his vi'ay to' Aleppo, Capt. Campbell was
met by a Mr.  , an Englifli gentlemen, who
had heard of his coming, and who, in the moft kind
and hofpitable manner, infifted upon his living at
his houfe inftead of the Britifh conful's, where he
would otherwife have refided during his flay there ;
and his manner of afking him was fo engaging, in
terefting, and impreffive, that the Captain fojmd it
impoffible to refufe him.
As the great public caravan had departed from
Aleppo before his arrival, and the expence of form
ing a private one for his ufe was too great, as he
was travelling on his own account, atid had no dif-
patches to authorife or enforce his departure, or bear
tiim out in the expence, he Was conftrained to re-
D 2 maim

52 ADVENTURES IN AN
main at Aleppo till fome eligible itiode of travelling
occured, or another .public caravan was formed.
This delay gave him an opportunity of feeing and
informing himfelf .of the city and furrounding coun--
try. It alfo gave occafion to one unhappy inci
dent,, of which morejhereaftea'.

rM-\PTF.»?

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 5^$

CHAPTER THE THIRD.

EESCRITTION OF ALEPPO. — AN EASTERN CA
RAVAN described.  CEREMONIES USED BY
PILGRIMS AT MECCA*  FREQUENT BROILS
IN THE STREETS AT ALEPPO.  COFFEE
HOUSES.  STORY-TELLERS.  PUPPET SHEWS.
— KHARAGUSE, OR PUNCH, HIS FREEDOM
&F SPEECH AND SATIRE.

A

DISTANT view of Aleppo fills the miud
with expectations of great fplendor and magnifi
cence. The mofqucs, the towers, the large ran
ges of houfes with - flat roofs, rifing above each
other, according to the floping hills on which they
ftand, the whole variegated with beautiful rows of
trees, form together a fcene magnificent, gay, and
delightful : biit, on entering- the town, all thofe
expedled beauties vanifh, and leave nothing in the
ftreets to meet the eye, but a difmal fuccef^on of
high ftene walls, gloomy as the receffes of a con
vent or ftate prifon. The ftreets themfelves, not
wider than fome of the meaneft- alleys in London,
Dvercaft by the height of the prifon-houfes on either
fide, are rendered flill more formidably gloomy by
D 3 the

54.. ADVENTURES IN AN
the folitude and filence that pervade them ; while
here and there a lattice toward the top, barely vifible,
ftrikes the foul with the gloomy idea of thraldom,
coercion, and imprifonment.
This deteftable mode of building, however, ex
tends not to the infide of the houfes, many of which
are magnificent and handfome, and all admirably
fuited to the exigencies of the climate, and the
domeftic cuftoms and manner of living of the inha^
bitants. The mofques (Mahomedan temples) are ex
tremely numerous in this city; indeed, almoft as
much fo Ets churches and convents in the popifli
countries of Chriftendom. There is nothing in
their external appearance, however^ to attrafi: the
notice of the traveller, or indulge the eye of the ar-
chitedl ; they are almoft all of one form — an oblong
quadrangle. . None but Muffelmen are permitted to
enter them, at leaft at Aleppo.
The next buildings of a public kind to the
mofques that deferve to be particularly mentioned,
are 'the cara;?anfferas, ftruftures which may tank^
though not in fplendour of appearance, at leaft in
true value, with any to be found imhe world. :
Caravanseras were originally intended for, .
and are now pretty generally applied to, the accom»
modation

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDl.l- ^^ ¦
modation of ftrangers and travellers, though, like
every other good inftitution, fometimes perverted to
die purpofes of private emolument or public job.
They are built at proper diftances through the roads
of the Turkifli dominions, and afford the indigent
or weary traveller an afylum from the inclemency,
of the weather ; thev are in general very large, and
built of the moft folid and durable materials ; have
commonlv one ftory above the ground floor, the
lower of which is arched, and ferves for ware-
houfes to flow goods, for lodgings and for ftables,
while the upper is ufed merely for lodgings ; be-
fide which, they are always accommodated with a
fountain, and have cook ihops, and other conveni-
encies to fupplv the wants of the lodgers. In
Aleppo the caravanferas are almoft exclufively oc
cupied by merchants, to whom they are, like other
houfes, rented.
The fuburbs of Aleppo, and the furrounding
country are very handfome, pleafant, and, to a perfon
coming out of the gloomy city, in fome refpe£ls inte
refting. Some tofled about into hill and valley lie
under the hands of the hufbandman ; fome are co
vered with handfome villas ; and others laid out in
gardens, whither tiie people of Aleppo occafionally
refort for amufement.
The roofs of all the houfes are flat, and formed
of a compofidoQ which effeiSlually refifts the wea-
D 4 ther.

56 ADVtJiTURES IN A,N ••
ther. On thefe meft of the people fleep in the
very hot weather: they are feparated from each
other. by walls ; but the Franks, who live contigu
ous to each other, and who, from their difagreeable
circumftances with regard to the Turks, are under
the neceffity of keeping up a friendly and harmoni
ous intercourfe together, have doors of comm'unica-
tion, which are attended with thefe fortunate and
pleafing advantages, that they can make a large cir
cuit without defcending ii^to the ftreets, and can
vifit each other during the plague, without running
tlie rifle of catching the infedjon by going among
the natives below.
There Is in this city a caftle which the native."!
conceive to be a place of great ftrength. It could
Hot, however, withftand the fliock of a few pieces
of ordnance for a day. It is efteemed a favour to
be permitted to fee it ; and .there is nothing to re-
compehfe one' for the trouble of obtaining permif-
fion, linlefs it be the profpeft of the furrounding
country, which from the battlements is extenfive
and beautiful.
Near this caflle ftands the feragllo, a large old
building, where the Bafhaw of Aleppo refides'; the
whole of it feems to be kept in very bad repair,
confidering the importance of the place. It is fur-
rounded by a flrong wall of great height: befide
-which.

OVEI. LAKD JOURNEY TO INDIA. El
which, its contiguity t'6 the caftle is very conveni
ent ; as 'in cafe of popular tumults, or inteftiiie
commotions, the Bafhaw finds an afylum in tlie
latter, which commands and pver^wes the city, and
is never without a numerous garrifon under the
command of an Aga.
Aleppo, in fliort, mean though it is when com
pared with the capitals of European countries, i?
certainly the third city for fplendor, magnificence,
and importance, in the vaft extei>t of the Ottoman
empire — Conftantiaople and Grand Cairo only ex
celling it in thofe points, and no other bearing any
fort of competition with it.
Capt. Campbell here Introduces the defcription
before mentioned of an eaftern caravan*, which is fo
often mentioned in the hiftories of the eaft, and in
all the tales and ftories relating to thofe countries.
The caravan (we find) is an aflemblage of tra"-
vellers, partly pilgrims, partly merchants, who
colleft together in order to confohdate a fufficient
force to protedt them, in travelling through the hi-
depus wilds and burning deferts over which, they
are conftrained- to pafs for commercial- and other
purpofes j thofe wilds beiog infefted with Arabs,
'who make a profeffioa of pillage, and rob in moft
£Brmidable hedies, foiae akaoftv as large as fmall
iuvnies.
D 5 As

58 . ADVENTtJRES IN AM
As the collcdlion of fuch"a number of paffengers
requires time, and the embodying of them is a ferious
concern, it is concerted with great care and prepa
ration, and is never attempted without the permif-
fion 'of the prince in whofe dominions it is to be
formed, and of thofe alfo through whofe dominions
it is to 'pafs, expreffed in writing. The exaft
number of men and carriages, mules, horfes, and
other beafts of burthen, are fpecified in the licence;
and the merchants to whom the caravan belongs,
regulate and direeSl every thing appertaininjg to its
government and police during the journey, and ap
point the various officers heceffary for conduc
ing it.
Each caravan has four principal officers: the
firft, the caravanbachi, or head of the ca.rayan ;
' the fecond, the captain of the march ; the third, the
captain of the ftop or reft ; and the fourth, the cap-
iain pf the diftributipn. ¦ '¦
; . The firft of thefe has the uncoritronlable authp-
_rity and command over all the others,' and gives
-them bis orders : the fecond is abfplute during the
march ; but his authority immediately ceafes csn thp
flopping or encamping of ihe caravan, when.thie
.third affumes his. fhare of the authority, which; Ije
jexerti during the time .of its:xemaj«i»g at.re.ft : and
the fourth orders the difpofition of every partjolbtiis
: : I caravan,

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 59
caravan, in cafe of an attack or battle. This laft
officer has alfo during the march the infpedlion and
direflion of the diftribution of provifions, which is
condutted under his management by feveral inferior
officers, who are obliged to give fecurity to the
mafter of the caravan ; each of them having the care
of a certain number of men, elephants, dromeda
ries, camels, &c. &c. which they undertake to
conduit and furnifli with provifions at their own
rifque, according to an agreement ftipulated be
tween them.
A FIFTH officer of the caravan is the pay-mafter
or treafurer, who has under him a great many
clerks and interpreters, appointed to keep accurate
'journals of all the material incidents that occur
upon the route. And it is by thefe journals, figned
by the fuperior officers, that the owners of the
caravan judge whether they have been well or ill
ferved or conducted..
Another kind of officers are the mathemati
cians, without whom no caravan will prefume to
fet out. There are commonly three of thefe at
tached to a caravan of large fize ; and they per-
'form the offices both of quarter-mafters and aides-
de-camp, leading the troops when" thg; caravan , is
attacked, and affigning the quarters where the ca
ravan is appointed to encamp.
D 6 " There

OU ADVi.N-1 Uivll* 1« Ai^4
There are no lefs than five diflin«£t forts of
caravans : firft, the heavy caravans, which are com
pofed of elephants, dromedaries, camels, and
horfes ; fecondly, the light caravans, which have
but few elephants ; thirdly, the common caravans,
¦where.- there are none of thofe animals ; fourthly,
the horfe caravans, where there are neither drome^
daries nor camels ; and laftly, fea caravans, con-
fifting of veffels ; whence it will be obferved, that
the word caravan is not confined to the land, but
extends to the water alfo. '
The proportion obferved in the heavy caravan is
as follows : when (here are five hundred elephants,
they add a thoufand dromedaries, and two thoufand
horfes at the leaft ; and then the efcort is compofed
of four thoufand men on horfeback.- Two men are
required for leading one elephant, five for three
dromedj.rjes, and feven for eleven camels. This
multitude of fervants, together with the officers and
paffengers, whofe number is uncertain, ferve ta
fupport the efcort in cafe of a fightj and render the
caravan, more formidable and fccure ; but, aceordii^
to the laws and ufages of the caravans, if they re
fufe to do fo, they are not entitled to any provifi^ons
-whatever from the caravan, even though they fhould
agree to pay an extravagant price for them.
Ev£RY elephant is mounted by what they call a
nick ; that is to fay, a young lad of nine or ten-years old,

OVERL--VND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 61
old, brought up to the bufinefs, who drives the
elephant, and pricks it with a pointed iron to ani
mate it in the fight: the fame lad alio loads the fire-
anus of tl^e two foldicrs who mount tl^e elephant
with him.
The day of the caravan fetting out, being once
fixed, is never altered or poftponed ; fo that no dif
appointment can poffibly enlue to any one.
One wouldfuppofe that fo enormous and powerful
a body, fo well armed, might be certain of moving
forward without fear 6f being'robbed ; but as^moft
of the Arabian princes have no other means to fub-
fift but by their robberies, they keep fpies in all
parts, who give them notice when the caravan fets
out, which they way-lay, and fometimes attack
with fuperior force, overpower them, plunder
them of all their treafure, and make flaves of the
whole convoy — foreigners excepted, to whom they
generally fhew more mercy. If they are repulfed,
they generally come to fome agreement; the con
ditions of which are pretty well obferveei, efpeci-
ally if the affailants are native Arabians. The car
rying on of robberies with fuch armies rhay appear
aftonifhing ; but when the temptation is confidered,
and when, it is known that one caravan alone is
fometimes enough to enrich thofe princes, much of
our furprife vanifhes.. , , , , ¦ ¦ ..,
, , Great

AwvcnxwAv.

Great precautions are neceffary to prevent the
caravan from introducing that dreadful diftemper
called the plague, into' the places through which
they pafs, or from being themfelves ' infedled with
it. "When therefore they arrive near a town, the
inhabitants of the town and the people of the cara
van hold a folemn confer. ncecriCcrning the ftate
of their health, and very fincerely communicate to
each other the ftate of the cafe, candidly declaring
whether there be danger on citaer fide. When
there is reafon to fufpedl any contagious difterhper,
they amicably agree that no communicaSon what
ever Ihall take place' between them ; and if the cara
van fla:nds in need of provifions, they are con
veyed to them with the utmoft caution over the
walls of the town.
The fatigues, hardftiips, and hazards, attending
thefe caravans, are fo great, that they certainly
would never be undertaken^ if the. amazing profits
did not, in fome meafure, counterbalance them,.
The merchant who travels in them muft be content
with fuch provifions as he can get, muft part with
all his delicacies, and give up all hope of eafe; he
muft fubmir to the frightfiil confufion of languages
and nations ; the fatigues of long marches over
fands, and under a climate almoft fufficiently hot to
.reduce him to a -cinder: he muft fubmit cheerfully
to exorbitant duties fraudulently levied, and-auda- cious"

OVERt.tND JOURNEY TOINDIA. 6i
cious robberies and fubtle tricks praiStifed by the ,
herd of vagabonds who follow the caravans — for
preventing which, the merchants have a variety of
well contrived locks, that can onLy be opened by
thofe who know the knack' of them.
But in fome tracks of caravans there are dan
gers, and horrible ones, againft: which no human
forefight or power can provide, and beneath which
whole caravans fink, and are never aftet heard of. '
The Egyptian caravans are particularly fubje6t
to hazards in the horrid tracks they are neceffarily
obliged to take through fandy deferts, where, for
boundlefs extents, nature has denied one fingle cir
cumftance of favour ; where a blade of grafs never
grew, nor a drop of water never ran : where the
fcorching fire of the fun has banifhed the kindly
influence of the other elements ; where for feveral
days journey, no objedt meets the eye to guide the
parched, traveller in his way; and where the cafual
track of one caravan is clofed by the moving fahds,
before another can come to take advantage of it.
In thofe vaft plains of burning fands, if the guide
fliould happen to lofe his way, the provifion of
water, fo neceffary to carry them to the place where
they are to find more, muft infallibly fail them: in
¦ fuch c^fe the mules and horfes die with fatigue and
-tbijjft; and even the camels, notwithftanding their
extraordinary

ADVENTURES IN AN

extraordinary power to fubfift without water, foon
perifh in the fame manner, together with the
people of the caravan, wandering jn thofe frightful
deferts. But more dreadful ftiU, and ftill more inevi
table, is the danger when a fouth wind happens to
rife in tlwfe fandy deferts. Tne leaft mifchief it
occafions is, to dry up the leathern bags .which con-"
tain the provifion of water for the journey. This
wind, to which the Arabs give the epithet of poi-
foned, often ftifles in a moment thofe who have the
misfortune to meet it-; to prevent which, they are
obliged to throw themfelves immediately on the
ground, putting their faces clofe to the burning
fands which furround them on all fldes, and cover
ing their mouths with fome linen cloth, left by
breathing they fliould fwallow inftantaneous death,
which this wind carries with it wherever it extends.
Befide which, whole caravans are often buried
under moving hills of burning fand, raifed by the
agitation of the winds., i
Yet, notwithftanding all thefe horrible circum
ftances of terror and danger — trade, and the' defire
of gain, on the one hand, induces multitudes of
peoples to run the hazard ; and on the- other, enthd-
Cafm and religious zeal fend thoufands to tempt

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 63
their fate, and take a paffago to Heaven through
thefe horrid regions.
The caravans are generally fo ordered as to ar
rive at Mecca about forty days after the Faft of Ra-
medan, and immediately previous to the Corban,
or Great Sacrifice.
Five or fix days before that feftival, the three
great caravans, viz. that from Europe, that from
Afia Minor, and that from Arabia, unite ; and all,
confiftlng of about two hundred thoufand men, and
three hundred thoufand beafts of burthen, encamp at
fome miles from Mecca. The pilgrims form them
felves into fmall detachments, and enter the town te>
arrange the ceremonies preparatory to the Great Sa*
crifice. They are led through a ftreet of continual
afcent, till they arrive at a gate on an eminence,
called the Gate of Health. From thence they fee
the great mofque which inclofes the Houfes of
Abraham. They falute it with the moft profound
refpedl and devotion, repeating twice, " Salam
Alek Irufoul Allah ! " that is to. fay,- '« Peace be
with the Ambaffador of God ! " Thence, at fome
diftance, they mount five fteps to a large platform
faced with ftone, where they offer up their prayers ;
they then defcend on the other fide of it, and ad
vance toward two arches, of the fame kind and di-
menfions, but at foine diftance from each othcr^
through

66' ADVENTURES IW AN
through- which they pafs -with great filence and,d«P
votion. This ceremony muft be performed feven
times. Hen,ce, proceeding -to , the great mofque which
inclofes the Houfes of Abraham, they enter the
mofque, and walk feven times round, the little build-"
ing , contained v;ithin it, faying, "This is the
houfe of God, and of his fervant Abraham." Then
kiffing with great veneration a black ftone, faid to
have defcended white from Heaven, they go to the
famous well calied Zun Zun, ,which the angel
fhewed to Agar when fhe was diftreffed in the de-
fert, and could find n,o' water for her fon Ifhmael,
and which the Arabs call Zem Zem. Into this
well they plunge vyith all their deaths, repeating
" Toba Alia, Toba Allal" that is to fay, ",For-
givenefs, God ! Forgivenefs, God ! " They then
drink a draught of that foetid, turbid, water, and
depart. ¦,-¦-. • I
This duty of : bathing and drinking they are
obliged to pafs through orice ; but thofe who would
gain Paradife befor^ the others, muft repeat it once
a day during the ftay of the caravan at Mecca.
At fifteen miles from the town of Mecca there is
a hill called "Ghiabal Arafata," or «'the Mount of
Forgivenefs.'' It.is about two miles in circumference and

OVl'.RLANB- -JOURNEY tO INDIA. ti7.
and a moft delicious fpot. Oil it Adam and Eve
•met, after the Lord had, for their tranfgreffions,
feparated them forty years. Here they cohabited
and lived in excefs of happinefs, having built a
houfe vOn it, called " Beith Adam," that is to fay,
'¦ the Houfe of Adam."
^On the eve of the day of facrifice, the three ca
ravans, janged in a triangular form, furround this
mountain ; during the whole night the people re
joice, clamour and riot — firing off cannon, mufkets,,
piftols, and fire-works, with inceffant found of
drums and trumpets. As foon as day breaks,- a
profound filence fucceeds, and they flay their fheep
and offer up their facrifice on the mountain with
every demonftration of the moft profound de
votion. :
On a fudden a fcheik (or head of a temple), a
kind of prelate, rufhes from amidft them, mounted
on a camel; he sfcends five fteps, rendered praiSti-
cahle for the purpofe, . and in a ftudied ferraon
preaches thus to the people :
•' Return praife and thanks for the infinite and
immenfe benefits granted by God to Mahomedans,'
through the mediation of his moft beloved friend and
prophet, Mahomet : for that he has delivered them
from the flavery and Doiidage of fin and idolatry, it;
which

68 ADVEMTVItBS tif- K^
which they were plunged; has given them ffie
houfe of Abraham, from whence th«y can be heard,
and their petitions granted ; alfo the Mountain of
Forgivenefs, by which they can implore him, and
obtain a pardon and remi£on of ^11 their fins.
" For that the bleffed, pious, and merciful
God, giver gf all good gifts, commainded his fecre-^
tary, Abraham, to build himfelf a houfe at Mecca,
whence his defcendants" might pray t© the Almighty,
and their defires be fulfilled.
"On this command all the mountains in (he
woridran, as it were^ each ambitious to affift the Se
cretary of die Lord, and to furnifh a Hojae towards
er-e(Sing the holy houfe ; all, except this poor litfle
Mountain, which, through mere indigence, could
not contribute a ftone. , It continued therefore
thirty years grieyoufly afBi6led: at length the Eternal
God obfervedits angnifli, and, moved with pity at
its long foffering, broke forth, faying, I can
forbear no longei', my child ! your bitter lamenta
tions have reached my ears ; ahd I now declare, that'
all thofe who go to vifit the houfe of my friend
Abraham fliall not be abfolved of their fins, if they
do not firft reverence you, and celebrate on you the
holy facrifice, which I have enjoined my people
through the mouth of my prophet Mahomet 1 Love
God ! pray ! give alms ! "
' • After

OVERtANO JOURNEY TO INDIA. 69
After this fern»an the people falute the Moun
tain and depart.

Some of our readers will probably not be dif
pleafed by returning from this long digreffiou.
" During my ftay at Aleppo," fays Capt.
Campbell, ," I experienced much politenefs and
hofpitality from the European gentry refident there,
and particularly from Mr. 'r  , before mentioned,
at whofe houfe I entirely refided ; and as the
Franks live on a very good footing with each otlier,
the time paffed fo-agreeably, that were it not for
" that within," I fhould have been happy enough.
"We rode out occafionally, fometimes hunting,
fometimes merely for the ride fake. Sometimes
with an intelligent native whom I got to walk with
me, or with fome of the Franks, I walked about
the town, in order to amufe the time and fee what
was going forward, notwithflanding the cry of
" Frangi Cucu ! " or " Cuckold Frank ! " which
frequently followed us for the length of a ftreet.
Sometimes we went of evenings to fome of the
outlets, where preparation was made for our recep
tion by fervants previoufly difpatched for the pur
pofe, and there regaled with coffee,, wine,
fruits, &c.
" The

i'TO AUVENTURES IN AN
" The firft day' we. went on a party of th& laft
."mentioned kind, Mrs.  did us the honour to
accompany us : the place appointed was in a range
of beautiful rural gardens that lie along the fide of
a liver; where; the wtU-cultivated earth teeming
with a vaft abundance of the beft efculent plants,
flowers, flowering flirubs, and fruit trees, afforded
a moft delicious regale to the fenfes ; and the plane,
the willow, the afli, the pomegranate, and a variety
of other trees, cluftered together in almoft impervir
oils thickets, yielded a delightful Ihady retreat from''
the piercing rays of the fun.
" It was on this occafion that I had the firft
fpecimen of Turkilh illiberality, which, as I was
entirely unprepared for it, confounded me, and
nearly deprived me of temper and of prudence. As
we walked along, I obferved feveral Turks ad-
dreffing themfelves to Mrs.  and me, who
walked arm in arm, and fpeaking with a loudneft
of voice, contortion of countenance, and violence
of gefticulation, attended with a clapping of hands,
which, though I did- not underftand their language,
I could plainly perceive carried the appearance of
menace or infult. I was at a lofs what to think of
it: Mrs. — ; — blufhed, and feemed much' hurt :
Mr-  and the other g^ndemen were filent, and
betrayed not the leaft mark of emotion or refent-
ment. At length, when we got from them, I aflied

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 71
what it meant.' and was told, that it was all aimed
at Mrs.  , or at leaft occafioned by her : that,
bigotted to the cuftoms of their own country, and
utterly ignorant of thofe of any other, they were af-
fedted with great indignation at- her drefs, occa-
fional derangement of her veil, and, above all, at
the fliamelefs and unpardonable wicked circumftance
of a woman walking fo openly and familiarly in the
company of men.
"Talking of this affair afterwards with Mr.
-, the lady's hufband, he affured me, that there

was not an opprobrious' and infamous epithet which
the vulgar ingenuity of the brightcft queen in Bil-
lingfgate could think of, that they had not huduied
upon us. I was beyond meafure aftoniflied at the
coolnefs with which he bore it, and faid, that if
I had underftood what they faid, I fliould moft
certainly have been unable to reftrain myfelf,
and would have knocked one of them down as an
example to the reft. Had you done fo, returned
he, you would certainly have repented it : for, if
you efcaped being ftoned, or put to death upon the
fpot, the legal puniftiment for an infidel flriking
a, true believer, you could not efcape; and probably
we, and all the Franks in the city, would fuffer
for it : it would at all events caufe a dreadful con-
vulfion in the place,- and you would yourfelf fall a
facrifice to it."
Our

72 •' Ta-DVENTURES IN AN
Our traveller with confiderable humour det
the prooefs' of a Turkifli broil, or ffre'et^bai
Which he defcribes as one of tlie moft ludicr
fcxhibitions in the world. The parties approacl
each other, and retreat mutually, as the aflion
the one gives hopes to the other of vidtory, lift
their hands, and flourifhing them in the air, a
ready to ftrike every moment, grinning and gna
ing their teeth, while their beards and whifkers
fprent with the fpume of their mouths, and wagg
with the quick motion of their lips, and ghaftly c.
tortious of their jaws, prefent the moft ridicul
fpedlacle imaginable.
Nothing, in,fa61, can exceed the extravagai
of their gefture, the vehement loudnefs of tt
voice, or the whimfical diftortions of their coun
nances, in which are difplayed fometimes
quickeft viciffitudes of fear and fury, and fgmetir
the moft laughable combination of both. All t
time, however, not a finglet)low is actually ftruc
but they compenfate for the want of bodily prdw
by the exercife of the tongue, denouncipg ven
ance againft each other, -threatning inftant den
lition, lavifhing every bitter reproach, every filt
epithet, and every horrible imprecation that tl
can think of, and both boafting occafionally of th
patience and forbearance, which fortunately enab
them to refrain from annihilating their adverfa

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 73
At laft the fray gradually decays : exhaufted with
fatigue, and half choaked with duft and vociferation,
they retreat gradually backwards to their own
doors : where fumming up all their malignity into
a moft horrid execration, they part for the time,
and retire to vaunt in empty threat, and growl away
their rage in the receffes of their haram.
A French gentleman, who had been friendly'
enough to efcort Capt. Campbell through the town,
and to fliewhim what was confidered as moft wor-
diy of obfervation, either as matter of amufement
or curiofity, one day led hirn into a coffee-houfe,
where they faw a number of people, fome feated
in the Turkifh fafhion, fome on low ftools, and
fome ftanding ; and in the middle a man walking
to and fro, fpeaking in an audible voice, fometimes
fiowly, fometimes with rapidity, varying his tones
occafionally witli all the inflexions of a corre-
fponding fenfe. " I could not," fays Capt. Camp
bell, " underfl:and him, but he feemed to me to
fpeak with ' good emphafis and good difcretion : '
his a6lion was eafy to him, though expreffive and
emphatical ; and his countenance exhibited flrong
marks of eloquent expreffion, I could not help
ftaring with aftonifhmcnt at a fcene fo new to me,
and felt great approbation of the tones and manner
pf this extraordinary orator, though I could not un=.
E derftand

74- ADVENTURES IJf AN
derftand a fingle word he faid. He was liftenj
by all vyith great attention, and the Turks (;
hot ufed to the laughing mood) frequently heti
ftrong fymptoms pf rifibility : h^t in the heigh
torrent of his fpeech he broke fuddenly off, Ii
|)ered out of the door and difappeared. I
dovvn that he was a maniac or lunatic of an :
nious kind, and was for going away. ' Stay-,'
my friend, ' reft where you -are for a few min
let us hear further.'
" The orator had fcarcely been gone three
nutes, when the room was, filled with the buz
converfation, not one word of which could I
derftand, but which my guide liftened to -veri
tentively. At length the buzz began to grow i
and foon increafed into clamour ; when a fc;en(
fued of fo very ludicrous a kind aS forced n
cram my handkerchief into my mouth to fuppi
laugh, or at leaft fo to ftifle it as to, avoid obf
tion. In fhort, they were difputing viplenth
became convulfed with niirth ; and my friend, it.
that I was likely to give offence, took me unde
arm and hurried me out of the coffi^e-houfc.
retired intp a pojrch in the caravanfera, -whe
gave vent to my fuppreffed laughter till my
were fore and my eyes ran tears. '

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA.' 75
" In the name of God, my friend 1 " faid I,
•' tell me what is the meaning of all that extrava
gant fcene to which we have juft now been witnefs :
who is that madman that fpoke fo much ? and why
did they all quarrel after he went away ! "
" Come, come," faid he, " let us retire to my
houfe, and I will there explain the whole of it to
you, from beginning to ending."
" I accordingly accompanied him home,
¦where we found a very gay circle afferabled, to
whom he defcribed my aftonifliment ; recounting
my immoderate laughter, till they all laughed very
nearly as immoderately , as myfelf" — "You muft
know," faid he, addreffing himfelf to me, " that he
whom you took to be a madman, is one of the moft
celebrated compofers and tellers of ftories in all Afia,
and only wants the aid of printing, to be perhaps as
eminent in reputation for making Contfis, as Mar-
montel or Madame D'Anois. A.s we paffed along
I heard his voice, and, knowing it, refolved to let
you fee him, and brought you in for the purpofe.
He was entertaining the company with a very curi
ous, interefting, and comical ftory; the'fubjedt of
wliicli was avarice : the hero a niifer of the name of
Caffem. His mifery and avarice are reprefented in
it. as bringing him into a variety of fcrapes, which
wafte his wealth ; and his charadter is drawn with
E 2 fuch

76 ADVENTURES IN AN
.fuch ftrength of colouring, and marked with fuch .
grotefque lines of humour— he related it moreover
with fo much wit, in fuch admirable language, and
embellifhed and enforced with fuch appropriate
aftion, utterance, and em.phafis, that it rivetted, as'
you faw, the attention of all his auditors, and ex-
.torted laughter even from Turkifh gravity."
" But how came he to break off fo fuddenly :"
faid L
^ " That," returned my friend, " is a part of
the art of his profeffion, without which he cpuld iipt
live : juft as he gets tp a moft interefting part of the
ftory, when he has wound the imaginatipn of his
auditors up to the higheft climax of expeSation, he
purpofely breaks off to make them eager for the
reft. Hq is fure to have them all the next day, with
'additional numbers who come on their report, and
he makes his terms to finifh the ftory."
" Why then," interrupted I, " why did they
who remained behind faU difputing r "
" That I will explain to you," faid he. " Juft
as he broke off, Caffem the mifer (who, as far as I
heard, feems as well drawn as Moliere's Avare)
having already fuffered a thoufand whimfical mif-
fortuiies and dilapidations of fortune, is brought

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 17 '
before the Cadi for digging in his garden, on the
prefumption that he was digging for treafure. As
foon as the hiflorian was gone, they firft applauded
him, and then began to difcufs his ftory, which
they one and all agreed in praifing highly : and
when they came to talk of the probable iffue of the
fequel of it, there were almoft as many opinions as
there were men in company ; each maintained his
own, and they went to loggerheads as you faw
about it — when the chance is a thoufand to one that
not one of them was near the mark. One in parti
cular furmifed that Caffem would be married to the
Cadi's daughter ; which gave great offence to fome,
arid roufed another of the company to declare, that
he was well affured in his confoience that Caffem
would be brought to the baftinado or the ftake, or
elfe hanged, in the fequel."
" And is it poffible," faid I, " that a group of
twenty or thirty rational beings can be fo far bereft
of all common fenfe, as to difpute upon the refult
of a contingency, which abfolutely depends on the
arbitrary fancy of an acknowledged fabricator of
falftioods.?" " C'efl vral, Monfieur ! and thereby they de-
monftrate the power of the poet (for poet we may
well call him) ; and entre nous, I doubt whether it
is not mpfe rational, as well as more fair, to difpute
E 3 - what

78 ADVENTURES IN AN #
what the denouement ought to be before than after
the -inventor of the piece has difpofed of it, as is
the pradice with us. When he has once finifhed
his fable, you will find them all content, and the
voice of ci-jticifm filent. Now in France and Eng
land, our critics lie perdue, in order to attack the
poet, let him finifli his performance how he may.
But you will recollect, Monfieur, that in -Turkey
criticifm is the honefl fpontaneous iffue of the
heart, and with us is a trade, where fometimes lucre,
fometimes vanity, but, oftener than both, envy
and malice, direfi the decifion, and difpofe to' cavil
and cenfure."
"But we will go again to-morrow," conti
nued he, " probably he will be there to conclude or
proceed, further with his ftory ;^' I .agreed to this
and we parted. _ ,
"On the next day we went, and not feeing the
orator in his place, lounged about the caravanfera,
and going to another coffee-houfe, found him de
claiming with all ,his might. My friend told me
that the ftory he was now on was quite different frorc
the former: however, we watched his motions fo ef
feftuaily, that we got the conclufion of the ftory o
Cafiem, which completely difappointed the prognof
tics of the two conflittingTurkifh critics; forCaffen
was neither baftinadoed, flaked, nor hanged, no

» OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 79
married to the Cadi's daughter, but lived to fee that
extreme avarice was folly ; and to be fenfible that
to make the proper ufe of the goods of this life is to
enjoy them.
" My French friend called on me a morning' or
two after this, and reminding me hpw highly I feenjed
to be entertained, faid, there were often to be feen,
by walking about and going into public places, a
variety of things, which, however worthlefs and un-
entertaining in themfelves, might, from the novelty
of their appearance, and their unlikenefs to any
thing feen in Europe, ferve either to divert by their
oddity, or promote the conception of new ideas in
the mind : he therefore recommended it to me,
with all the zeal of a perfon who took an inteteft in
my happinefs, to keep on my legs and in the ftreets
while I remained at Aleppo.
"With this advice I readily complied, and we
fallied out direflly in queft of adventure. We pro
ceeded, therefore, to one of the beforementioned
doflee-houfeS, where, as my friend obferved to me,
though there were no people of great rank, there
was generally fomething to afford contemplation of
amufement; and where, if nothing elfe'occuired,
iht raotky appearance 'of the company was fuffi-
cient to excite a variety of whimfical emotions, and
fuggeft numberlefs ludicrous images to the imagi-
£ 4 nation.

80 ADVENTURES. IN AN *
nation of an Englifh or French man. As there
¦was no orator at work declaiming, f ha4 time to
indulge myfelf with a more accurate view than I
had before taken of. the group that furrounded us :
and furely never was ponderous gravity more ludi-
crpufly, or in more various forms, depifted by any
caiicaturift ill the world. Here it was to be feen,
in all its fhadings, from the felf-important nod of
ferious cogitation, down to the foporific afpe£i;. of
folid ftupidity. Not a mufcle was moved in way
pf niirth, not a face, difgraced with a fmile, and I
could not help thinking aU the time, that if every
nation of the earth was to take fome animal for its
infignia, as the Britifh aflume the lion, and the
Pruffian the eagle, the Turks might be divided in.
their choice between the appropriate claims of .the
owl and the afs.
" Soon after we entered, a band of what they
called mufick ftruck up a cpn^cert. And,here again
the notion of the owl and the afs ftruck me .yvith, ip-^
-creafed force, as peculiarly prefiding over their mu-,
fie: for no .other combination of founjl§ that .1,
know on earth, but the fcreeching of the one, ^n^
the brayipg of the "other, could form .any thing tp
referable this con(;ert, with which the auditory
feemed yaftly pleafed, though I was obliged to, be
take myfelf to flight, in order to get relief from,the
torture it gave me. The Turks, hpweyer, as .1
retreated

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. $1
retreated, honoured me with a few remarks, which
as I did not underftand, I could not precifely feel ;
my friend, however, told me, there were to the
effe£t that I was Frangi Dumus (Frank Hog),
and had no more ear than that filthy animal for
mufic. "Come, faid my friend, don't be difcouraged !
— But the mufic, — the mufic! interrupted I. —
Well then, faid he, the mufic, or rather the founds,
were execrable, to be fure ; yet they have at leaft
ferved to eftablifh this certainty, that there is no-
diing, however difcordaiit or deteftable, which ha
bit will not reconcile us to. Doubt not, faid he,
that the beft pisc;:; of Handel or Corelli,- performed
by the beft band in Rome, would appear as ridi
culous to them, as their concert did to us."
."We vifited raany coffee-houfe s in the courfe
of that day, in every one of which we found fome
thing to divert or difguft us ; at length as weentered
one, my friendly guide turning to me with fatisfac-
tion in his countenance, faid, ' Here is fomething
about to-go forward that will pleafe you bettei than
the concert of mufic' What is it, faid I.? A
drama, returned he ; a drama, to you moft cer
tainly of a new and extraordinary kind ; and I do
affure you, that fo zealous am I to procure you en-.
tertainment, I would rather than a couple pf louis
E 5 you

82 ADVENTURIES IN AM
you could 'Underftand what is going forward : your
hearty mirth and laughter, added he, are fufficient-
to put one in fpirits. He then difefted my atten
tion to a fellow who was bufily employed in ereflt-
ing a ftage, which he aceomplifhed in a time incre--
dibly fliort, The light of the fun was completely-
excluded, and a puppet fhew commenced, which
gave great delight to all the audience, and', ignerrant
as i was, of the language, pleafed me: very much. ¦
•* I was aftonlfhed when informed that one man
only fpoke for all the perfohages of the drama, for
fo artfully did he change his tone of voice, that I
coidd have fworn there had been as many people to-
l^e^k, as there were charailers in the piece. The-
images were not adtually puppets commonly fo-
called, but fhadows done in the manner of Aflley's
Ombres Chinoifes. They were, however, far infe
rior to his in execution and management, though
the dialogue and incident evidently appeared, even
to me, to be executed with a degree of the vis ca-
mica far fuperior to any I ever faw in a thing of the
kind in Europe ; indeed, fo perfeft was the whblei
that though I knew not a word of the language, I
Comprehended deafly the plail' of the: piece, and
inany of the ftrokes'of huinour contained in the dia-
Ibgue. The plan -^was obvioufly taken from a ftory
¦which I have read in fome of the eaftern tales,'! be^
lieve in the Arabian "NightsEiitertaiiinWnts, andli

OVERLAND JOURNEY to INDIA. 83
is founded on the law of the country, that a man
may repudiate his wife twice, and take her back
agSin ; but in the event of a third divorce, cannot
retake her to his marriage bed, unlefs fhe be previ
oufly married and divorced by another man. To
ohviate which, hulbands who repent having divorced
their wives a third time, employ a man to marry
them, and reftore her back again ; and he who does
this office is called a hullah. In the piece before
us, however, the lady and the hullah like each
other fo well, that they agree not to feparate ; the
hufband brings them both before the Cadi to enforce
a feparation ; and the ftene before the Cadi Was as
ludicrous, and as keen a fatire upon thofe magif
trates, as can well be conceived, though of the low
, kind. " The piece was irttroducfed with a grand nup"
rial proceffion, in which the mafter difplayed the
powers of his voice by uttering a variety of the
moft oppofite tmies in the whole gamut of the
hoinan voice; fometimes fpeaking, fometimes
fqueaking like a hurt child, fometimes huzzaing aS
. a man, a woman, Of a child ; fometimes neighing
like a horfe, and fometimes interfpcrflng it with
other fuch founds^ as commonly occur in crowds, ill
fuch a manner as aftonifhed me : while flie concomi^
tant a£lion of the images, gi'otefque beyond meafure,
kept up the laugh; htjrfes kicking and throwing
E6 their

8* -ADVENTURES IN AN
their rjders,, affes biting thofe near them, -and kick
ing thofe behind them, who retire liihping in the
moft ridiculous manner; while their great ftanding
charafter in all pieces, Kara-ghufe (die. fame as
our Punch), raifed a general roar of obftreperous,
mirth even from the Turks, with his ^whimfical
adion, of which I muft fay that, though, nonfenfi-
cal, though -indecent, and fometimes even difguft-
ing, it was on the whole the moft finifhed compo-
filion of low ribaldry arid fun that I eyer beheld.
" When they come before the Cadi, he is feated
in his divan of juftice ; but as foon as the complaipt,
is opened and anfwered, he rifes and comes for
ward between the contending parties :, here he turns
to one and demands in a terrific tone what he has to
fay> while the. other puts cafh in his hand behind,
and in' proportion, as the caih is counted in, increafes
the terror of his voice ; he then pockets , the
money, and again turns to the other, and demands
what he has tp pffer, while in like manner he jeceive^
the bribe from his. adverfary, and puts, it in ^n op
pofite pocket ; this alternate application lafts till the
purfes of both are exhaufted, when, giving a gre;at
grpan, he retires on one fide to reckon the money
of each frpm a pocket he has on either fide,, on?;
called plaintiff, , and the other defendant; when
balancing them, he finds plaintiff better by one
afpey j(pr three half-pence) than (lefendajjit, au^
pro-

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 85
pronounces his judgment accordingly. The de-
fcndant'appeals to the Bafliaw ; they go before him:
Kara-ghufe (Punch) however takes the defendant
afide, and in a dialogue, wliich my friend affured
nie was pointed, witty, and bitterly fatirical, de-
vclopes to him the whole fyftem of magiftratical in-
juftice, advifes him to bribe the Bafhaw, and, de
claring his zeal for all young people fond of amo
rous enjoyment (wliich he is at fome pains to enlarge
upon to the excefs of indelicacy), offers him the
aid of his purfe. The advice is followed ; the bribe
is accepted ; the Cadi's decree is reverfed, and him
felf difgraced, and the mob at once hiiftle him and
bear the hullah home to his bride with clamours
of joy. Here again the mafter fhewed his extra
ordinary powers, giving not only, as before, diftiniSt
and oppofite tones of voice, but huddling a number
of different founds with fuch fkill and rapidity toge
ther, that it was fcarcely poffible to refift the per-
fuafion that they were the iffue of a large and tu
multuous crowd of men and animals. With this
extravagant medley the curtain dropped, and the
performance ended.
" Returning home we converfed together on
the fubjeft of the piece, which I confefs I could
not get out of my head for fome time. My friend
explained to me, as well as he could recolleft, a
great

86 ADVENTURES IN AN
great part of the dialogue, and affured me, that die
freedom of fpeech of Monfieur- Kara-ghufe had
from time to time created a great deal of uneafi-
nefs^, not only to private offending individuals, ' but
to the raagiftracy itfelf-^that no offender, ho-wever
intrenched behind power, or erilhriried in rank,
could efcape him — that Bafliaws, Cadis, nay the
Janiffaries themfelves, were often made the fport
of his fury ; that he was not more reftrained in the
efiufions of obfcenity which he uttered, than in his
fatire; that he was always well received and ap
plauded, even venerated (as we venerate the liberty
of the prefs) as a bold teller of truth, who with
little mifchief does a great deal of good, and often
' roufes the lethargic public miAd to a fenfe of
public dangers and injuries. He added, that in
fome cafes the magiftrate had been- obliged to inter
fere ; and the Bafliaw himfelf was ferioufly called
upon at times to ftop the licentious" tongue of this
champion of ffeedom^ Kara-ghufe.
.. "Well then," faid I, " it" appears uporr th6
whole that Monfieur Kara-ghufe is a Very' great!
blackguard, but a very witty, and a very honeft
"You have )aft Iiit it," faid lie, "and if
Ma-fter -Kara-ghufe was to take fuch liberties < hi
i' '<"j France",

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 8t
France, Sp.iin, Portugal, or Germany, all his wit
and honefty would not fave him from punifti
ment. In England you do not want him; evfery
man there is a Kara-ghufe, and every newlpaper a
puppet-fhew." " And yet," returned I, " we complain fadly of
want of liberty."
" That is natural," returned my fagacious
Frenchman " perfeitly natural. Liberty is like
money ; the more we have of it, the more covetous
we grow."
" Very true, Monfieur," faid I, pleafed with
his compliment to our happy eonftitution, and to
clinch his obfervation, gave a Latin quotation,
which when a child I got out of Lilly's Grammar,
" Crefcit amor numml, quantum ipfa pecunla crefclt;"
and then changing nummus for llbertas, " Crefclt
amor llbertatls, quantum Ipfa llbertas crefclt."
"Tis very well, Monfieur," faid he ; "and to
carry on your allufion, may we not fay, that they
who do not know when they have enough are as
dangeroufly -wrong in the one cafe, as thofe who
fay we liaye too much are in the other } The
Englifli complaining of the want pf liberty, re
minds

.ADVENTURES IN AN

minds me of the coffee-houfe orator's ftory- of
Caffem, who, wallowing in wealth, left it all iq
the wild purfuit of more. I Ijope however that
they never will, -like hjm, lofe their ftock in vain
endeavours to increafe it."

CHAPTER

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 89

CHAPTER THE FOURTH.

DIS-\GREEABLE ADVENTURE, WHICH OCCA
SIONS THE AUTHO-R's SUDDEN DEPARTURE
FROM ALEPPO,  PLAN OF TRAVELLING
SETTLED. — LEAVE ALEPPO.  DESCRIPTION
AND CONDUCT OF HIS TARTAR GUIDE. 
ARRIVE AT DIARBEKF.R.  DESCRIPTION OF
THAT FAMOUS CITY.  WHIMSICAL INCI
DENT OCCASIONED BY LAUGHING,  OD
DITY OF THE TARTAR. — STRAN GE TR AITS
IN HIS CHARACTER. -7-BUYS WOMEN, TIES
T-HEM UP IN SACKS, AND CARRIES THEM
FIFTY' MILES.

Wi

HILE our traveller was in this manner en
deavouring to pafs away the time as cheerfully as
poffible till a caravan was formed, or Company's
difpatches were coming overland, of which he.
might avail himfelf, he found his fituation in the
houfe of Mr.  . — growing extremely critical.
That gentleman had, though fallen into the vale
pf years, married his lady at a very tender age.
She was then young, beautiful, full of fenfibility,
and gifted with fuch natural endowments both of
ii^ind and perfon, accompanied with all thofe ac-
complifhments

so ADVENTURt'iS rN AN
coraplifhments which helped to drefs them to ad
vantage, that /he might well be acquitted of va
nity, even though fancy fuggefted to her fhe was fit
to grace and confer happinefs On a younger bed |-
while reflecSion on the obvious - difparity of th^
match (which the cool temper of fatiety poffibly
fuggefted, to him) might perhaps have alarmed his
mind to circumftances of probable danger, that,
before wedlock, were all hid hehind the deceptive
veil of paffion. Whether thefe were the private
fentiments that influenced both, or cither of them,
cannot be determined ; but Capt. Campbell had not
been long in the houfe before he plainly perceived
that they were on a very bad footing with each
other, and, in fliort, their difagreement was become
habitual to them. At firft, decency enforced, con
cealment, and the ebullitions of peevifhnefs were
flifled by the didlates of prudence : but the aniffiofi-
ties of the cpnnubial ftate are thofe which of all
others are the moft impatient under controul ; and
as time, by prdducing. familiarity, relaxed reftrainf,'
the pent-up paffions began to force their way, and"
open bickering took place in his prefence.
It h&s been already obferved, that the Captaui
was then young. Perhaps it was owing to a conge-'
niality pointed out by their age, perhaps to a com-
paffionate politenefs amounting, tp tendernfifs;
which he always difclofed on thefe unhappy occa-i
fions,

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 91
fions, joined perhaps to the ardent look of youth
kindled by the imaginations to 'which this impru
dent conduft infenfibly gave birth,, that the lady
thought proper to take the very hazardous ftep of
making a confidant of a young man and a fbldierj'
and revealing to himthewhole tale o'f her grievances,-
with a pathetic eloquence that would have made an
impreffion upon a much lefs fufceptible mind thaif
his. Though this extraordinary mark of confidence
and efteem communicated to his heart fh'ong fenfa
tions of unjuftifiable pleafures, he fo far got the bet
ter of himfelf at firft, as to receive the whole with
the fame appearance of tranquility, as if he had been
only a confidential female friend. He pitied, it is
true — ^he expreffed his pity — ^he advifed, not treach-'
croufly but faithfully — he faid fuch things as oc
curred to him as moft likely to affuage and extin-
guifli the flame of difcord, and lead to amicable ad-
juftment ; and he parted for that time with her to
go to a felf-approving pillow, where, while hi^
fancy was inflamed an^ tickled by the flattering
mark of regard fhewn him by fo accdrapliflied a
perfon, he had the foothing confcioufnefs of hav
ing, as far as he was able, done his duty, and ef
caped the corroding refledlion of having violated
the rights of hofpitality.
Not an opportunity however afterwards offered,
that the fame unhappy point was not the fubjeft pf
N . difcuffion,

92 ADVENTURES IN AW
difcuffion, and unfortunately " thofe opportumties
but too frequently occurred ; till at length both the
lady and he began to feel that they were the fweeteft
minutes of their lives, and were fought for with in-.
duftrious avidity by both of them. No human re
folution was fufficient to withftand fuch -an unlucky
concurrence of circumftances : from lamenting the
grievances, they wifhed to remove them ; frorjj
wifhing they proceed to confider the ineans • and
when they had got that length, the flight wae not
far to the extreme end — the. execution of it. His
paffions hurried him before them, .his expreffions
grew gradually more and more unguarded, their
conyenfation became more interefting and warmj
and though he felt and ftruggled to be guided by the
ftrift principles of honour, and formed a .thoufand
refolutions, not to franfgrcfs the laws of hofpitality,
by injuring the man who had treated him -with fuch
kindnefs, the ftruggle became too fevere- for him;
the defire of pleafing a lovely woman, who had re-
piofed fuch unbounded confidence in him, and -who '
fpemed to expeft and require of him to alleviate her
mifery, at length bore down all the oppofitioqs
fuggefted by reafon and principle, and he agreed
to become the inflrument of her removal from this'
unhappy fituation. " We fell," fays Capt. Camp
bell, " but not entirely. There is one length to
which no eaj-thly confideration^ — no allurement,
. however dazzling, could tempt me — it is npw the
moft:

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 93
moft cordial confolation to my mind ; I never fuf
fered myfelf to think of trefpafllhg on the decorum
of his houfe, nor did we in any fingle inftance carry
our intercourfe to a dirc£t violation of his bed.
.Though the tranfports of youthful paffion hurried us
into converfations and refle£tions on the fubjeft of
her determination to be feparated from her hufband,
yet that paffion was of too delicate a kind to fink
into that brutal fordid indulgence of diflionourable
ftolen embraces. She wiflied for that feparation,
rather as a fubterfucre from inceffant diurnal mifery,
than as a prelude to any vicious or illicit enjoy
ment ; and we looked with pleafure to the -event,
but we looked no farther."
While, however, they hugged themfelves4n the
fecurity and fecrecy of expreffing their genuine fen
timents, her hufband difcovered their wifhes, and all
at once took the neceffary meafures for pteventing
them. So that overwhelmed with grief and fhame,
the Captain diredlly formed the refolution to leave
Aleppo, and proceed in the beft manner he could
to his deftinationi
The ftory, neverthelefs, by means unneceffary to
mention, took wind. The folly of fome, the ma
lice of others, and the unaccountable propenfity to
falfhood of more, trumpeted it about with many
exaggerations tP his injury, and he was held up as
thp

Qi ADVENTURES IN AN
the deliberate feducer of innocence : but^he whole
tranfaftion (he declares) was exactly as we have
ftated it; and the conjugal difagreements previous
to his arrival at Aleppo, which in telling the ftory,
his enemies purpofely omitted, were of fuch public
notoriety, that every European, even the Conful'
himfelf, was fully acquainted with them.
The difcovery, however, furprifed and grieved
him very muqh; and, indeed, it aftonifhed him
the more, from the manner in which it was com-
.municated. One day- he received a polite meffage- from the
Britifli Conful, defiring to fpeak to him as foon as
poffible, upon a bufinefs of great confequence. He
.thought at firft, that it might be fome plan for for
warding him on his journey- — ^perhaps Company's
difpatches that had arrived to go overland ; yet at
intervals, fomething like apprehenfions of the true
motive of his fending for him flew acrofs his mind. -
He however went to him, when, after fome little
introduftory cOnverfation, the Conful told him,
that Mr.  had been with him that morning,
(laying before him a complaint -of a moft extraordi-i
nary and ferious nature, of which, as it immedi
ately concerned him (Capt. Campbell) he thought
himfelf bpund to inform him, in order that he
might either contradi(Sl; fo grofs a calumny, if it
were

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 95
were untrue, or find means to avoid the obvioijfly
neceffary refult if founded in fadt.
He then proceeded to relate to him, that Mr.
¦  had informed him of a confpiracy having been
meditated againft his peace and honour, between
his wife and the Englifh gentleman whom he had
entertained in his houfe ; that there plan was no
thing lefs than an elopement ; and that he did not
know how foon it might be carried into execution,
if not timely prevented; and filially, that he had
demanded the affiftance of the Conful, and his in-
tereft with the Turkifh magiftrate, to prevent it,
by granting him an armed force for the protctStion
pf his houfe.
The Captain was much furprifed to find that
converfations fo very guarded as theirs were difco
vered, and more fo that the aggrieved perfon did
not think proper to fpeak to himfelf and charge
him in perfon with the offence; never refledling
the while, that all his ideas were military, and
' Mr.  's merely commerciaL He- was alfo
much at a lofs to conjecSture how the difcovery
came to be made — but this he found afterwards was
owing to a female fervant, who had been improvi-
dently intrufted by her miftrefs with the fecret.
Finding,

5 ADVENTURES IN AN
Finding, however, that by whatever means
Ir.  became acquainted with the affair, it was
certain fadt that he was apprifed of it, tlie Cap-
in diredlly acknowledged the whole~ truth with
le utmofi candour to the Conful ; told him the
Fair ftep by ftep as it arofe, affuring him that pity
r the lady's deplorable fituation made him liften
fuch a meafure; and that unlawful paffion had fO
tie to do with it, that in all their private con.
rences they had never tranfgreffed the limits of
irity ; and that her perfon was,. at leaft refpedling
m, and he firmly believed all mankind, fpotlefs
id inviolate. He added, that great allowances
ere to be made for a young creature barely eigh- _
;n years of age, configned by the wickednefs of
aricious parents to the embraces of a man, of
:ty-five; who, amiable and worthy though he
is, in fecial intercoufe with the world, was yet
the moft indefpenfible point of cOniiubial. felicity
utterly defefiive, as neceflarily to create difguft
d abhornence in a youthful mind. He remarked,
tt, ,ifitha (forming of laws, it as plainly appeared
jtheip.farie who made them amongft the Englifh,
it doe's on' the face of the Gentoa laws, that they
iremade by the Bramina : for, as by the latter
li-penalty of arfewpuns.of couries (not value a
lling) is annexed to the perpetration of a~ crime
¦ which thofe of another clafs lofe their lives, fo,
lOng us, h appears that our laws are made by the

OVERLANB JOURNEY T© INDIA. $f
aged, the deerepid, the fenfual, and the rich : «lfe
it could never happen that theie were i» tne fam?
code, laws to punifh marriage between the young
and vigorous, and others to enable the brutality of
a parent to take its full fcope, and confign, as i©
the prefent inftance, youth, beauty, h alth, ami
every perfonal attradtiou, to the arms of age, infir-
'mity, and impotence. '^>
The Conful fairly acknowledged there was too
much truth in what he faid ; but remarked withal,
that it was rather a hazardous experiment, and he
was- fure it would be an endlefs one to corredt all
the' abufes to which the fallibility of ijnan, and his
incomjjetency to form any thing perfedl, neceffarily
left fociety and their laws liable — that the law was
written, and it was the duty of every individual tp
obey it-— and that in cafes of "adultery, the offence
could be juftified on no folid grounds whatever, for,
independent of the feelings of the hufband,. whi.chi
perhaps were more poignant in old age than youth,
the injury to his family was not to be got over, in
probably giving to him an heir no way a^-kin to
him. '* It would be right, I think," faid he, " to
ftop fuch difpro'portionate matches ; yet, once
made, they -flipuld be as religioufly obferved as thofe
of love, among which we almoft as frequenly, as
in thofeofcorapulfion, fee inftances of infidelity. If
F ¦you

ig I ADVENTURES IN AN
OU doubt this," faid he, " read the records «f
)o(Sl:ors' Commons."- ;
The Captain allowed the juftice pf what he faid,
ut at the fame time affured the Conful that his in-
intions went no farther than wifhing the lady to be
feued from her thraldom, which was dreadful. —
I am fure," faid the Conful, " that Mr. Camp-
;ll thinks fo, becaufe I am convinced he would
)t otherwife fay fo. But may not," faid he,
liling, " may not Mr. C.^have deceived himfelf? ,
efe are cafes in which, the paffions are ftrangely
It to hoodwink the underftanding.
"However," faid he, breaking.off pleafandyi
I muft give you all the comfort that truth will
,ow me to do:. I am. fure. that the poor lady is-
ndemned to great wretchednefs ; partly from my
m obfervation, partly froin -public report, and
rtly from her own mouth : for you muft know^
i has feveral times complained to me of her hut
nd's peevifhnefs and tyranny ; and even befoughti -
I to ufe my. influence and authority to. relieve her
nn her mifery. , ,
" Mr. -. — --," continued he, " is a man whom'
all other accounts I efteem, and highly value.
this, inftance he as erred, and I cannot pity,
n, even though'he fuffers all the torments pf jea/

overland JOURNEY TO INDIA. 99
loufy: and as there are laws for puni filing with
death premature intercourfe with the fex, I cannot
fee, arty more than you, why the facrificing youth
to extreme old age fliould not be equally puniflied,
for I am fure it is equally unnatural, and ftill more
injurious to a ftate. Thefe are my fentiments,"
continued he; " but let not this declaration induce
you to think that I the lefs difapprove of your in
termeddling. You have allowed me the privilege
of a friend, and I will not fuffer it to be made an
empty one. , You were more culpable than many
young men would be ; firft, becaufe you are mar
ried, and fhould, upon the common principles of
doing as you would be done by, have refrained;
and next, becaufe you were enjoying the fweets of
hofpitality' in- his houfe, and fliould have daflied
from his lips, rather than held to them, the deepeft
cup of bitternefs."
The Conful then, turning the difcourfe from
its diredl line, obferved, that it was abfolutely -ne
ceffary the Captain fliould defift, as otherwife he
fliould be obliged to ufe his influence and power to
protedt Mr.  .
In anfwer to this, our traveller gave him his
honour in the firft place, that he would proceed no
farther in the bufinefs ; and that, on the contrary,
he was determined to fet out upon his journey to

30 ADVENTURSS IN AN
idia diietStly, if means could be contrived, for
is conveyance ; adding, that lie flioiild confider it
i a great favour, in addition to thofe he had al-
lady received at the Conful's hajids, if he would,
}ntrive feme means to fet him forward in his
•ute. To this the Conful anfwered, that as the making
} of a caravan would be extravagantly expenfive,
5 knew no means that were not attended with
irtain hardfhip and eventual danger,; but finding
e Captain determined at alnioft any danger orha-
trd to fet off, he propofed to fend for a man who
lew every refource in that way, and when he
ime would talk farther on the bufinefs ; in the
ean time he recommended great circumfpedliori
him while he continued at Mr.  -'s houfe, to
hich he very folemnly pledged his word.
Being now conftrained by every confideration, ,
well of prudence and decency as pf inclination,
leave Aleppo immediately, he determined that no
mmoH impediments fhould ftop him, and he"
aited with impatience the Arrival of the perfon
i whom the Conful refted his hopes of difpatch-
» him. ,
This perfon came in the evening, and .after^a
nlerence with dje Conful, was introduced to the

overland journey to INDIA. , lOl
Captain, who was informed that he was a Tartar,
and one of the vaft number of that defcription who
are employed by the Turkifh ftate in carrying dif
patches from court to the various Viceroys and
Bafhaws, and interchangeably between them again ;
that they were men on whofe fidelity the utmoft re
liance could be had ; and that this man, who had
an excellent charadter, had agreed to take him to
Bagdad, provided he would fubmit to the difguife
of a Tartar.
The agreement between them was entirely
fubmitted to the difcretion of the Conful, who
fettled it thus : — The Tartar was to deliver the
Captain fafe at Bagdad ; to fupply him and his fer
vant, who adted as interpreter, with an ample fuf-
ficiency of provifions and horfes on the road ; to
exchange his horfe for him as often as he pleafed,
and to go at fuch rate, whether fafler or flower, as
he thought proper : for this he was to receive one
hundred pounds ; and the Captain farther promifed,
as an encouragement, that if he adted to his fatif-
fadlion, he would, on their arrival at Bagdad, add
a douceur pf twenty ppunds.
The next day he came again, and Captain
Campbell had a diflindl view pf his fyture guide
and fuppofed mafter, for in feveral places the Cap
tain was tp pafs for his flave. " He was," fays our
F 3 traveller

102 ADVENTURES IN AN
traveller, " one of thofe ftriking charafler figures
tliat a painter would like to take- a fketch of— rand
methought Tartar was written legibly in every li
neament of his, countenance and perfon. He was
tall, mufcular, and bony — ^his figure befpoke great
hardihood, ftrength, and adtlvity- — nor could the
trpvyfers, which he wore conceal the Herculean tex-
' ture of his limbs — ^his flioulders were expanded to
an enormous breadth-7-he was unincumbered with
flefh, or, indeed, rather extremely lean — his fore
head, though partly concealed beneatl^ his turban,
was very high — his nofe large, hooked, fhafp, and
.prominent — a pair of fmall, fierce,^^blaGk, penef.
trating eyes, barely feparated by the nofe, and a
formidable pair of muftachlos, which he carefully
flecked with pomatum into a point .refembling an
,awl-blade, and which moved-4ike the whifkers of a
purring cat, with every word, he fpoke, gave a
'whimfical ferocity to the countenance, beyond the
rfcach of defcription, and rendered him altogether as ¦
difcouraging a confidential friend, as eyer j, Chrif-
tian trufted his life to fince Mahomet firft fet up the
trade of a prophet. He furveyed me with gre^t at
tention — opened his moi^ith two or three times like
a gafping pike, as if to fpeak — ftroaked his whifk--
ers as often-^and at laft pronounced that he would
undertake to condudl me ; adding, in allufion to
my black hair and dark coinplexion, that I looked
jnore like a natiyej than any Frank he had ever
feen.

CV-ERLAND journey to INDIA. 103
feen. He ordered me to cut my hair quite fliort,
to provide myfelf with a Tartar drefs and cap, in
the fitfhion of his own ; and, faying he would call
oh me in proper time, departed.
Thus equipped, they fet out; but previous to
his departure the Conful did every thing that was
poffible for him to do, conducive to his fafety and
accommodation on the road, which, as they were
obliged to 'go to the city of Diarbeker, a great length
out of their way, he obferved would be long, dreary,
fatiguing, and hazardous ; he procured him from
others, and gave him himfelf, a number of letters,
and at parting, defired him to Comfort himfelf with
the refledtion, that when he arrived at his journey's
end, he would have to boaft, that he went to India
by a route never travelled by any European be
fore. "As I became familiarifed to my Tartar guide,"
fays Capt. Campbell, " I found his charadter dif-
clofe much -better traits than his firft appearance be
fpoke, and I began infenfibly to think him a very
entertaining fellow. Perceiving that I was very low-
fpirited and thoughtful, he exhibited manifeft marks
of compaffion ; and taking it into his head that I
was adlually removed for ever from my friends and
-my family, he fpoke in a ftyle of regret and feeling,
that did great honour to his heart : and to fay the
F 4 truth

)4 adventures in an
uth, he did every thing in his power to alleviate
y feelings, converfing with me, ejither by means
' the interpreter, or in broken lingua franca fup-
ying all my wants cheerfully and abundantly ;
langing horfes with me as often as I pleafed, and
sing flow or galloping forward, juft as beft fuited
y inclination and humour.
" The firft pbjedl he feemed to have in view on
ir journey was, to imprefs me with a notion of his
)nfequence and authority, as a meflenger belongf
g t;o the Sultan. As all thofe men are employe4
rthe firft njagiftrates in the country, and are, as it
ere, the links of communication between them,
ey think themfelves of great importance in the
ite ; while the great men whofe bufinefs they
e employed in, make them feelthe weight of aur
¦Ority, and treat them with the greateft contempt;
;nce they become habitually fervile to their fujie-
ors, and by natural confequence infcJent and-over-
;ariiig to their inferiors, or tliofe who, being in
eir power, they conceive to be fo. As Carriers of
fpatches, their power and authority wherever
ley go, is in fome points undifputed.4 and they
m compel a fupply of provifions, horfes, and at-
nda,nts, -yvherever it fuits their occafions; nor
ira,any man j-cfift their, right to take the horfe'
om u-nder him to proceed on the Emperor's bufi-..
jfs, be die owner's occafion ever fo preffi'ng,.,
' "My

overland journey to INDIA. 109
" My feelings, which were altogether of the
moft unpleafaiit kind, ferved as a flimulus to my
mind, and increafed my anxiety to get forward ; I
therefore puflied on as faft as the horfes, which were
in general excellent, could carry me: and as we
halted at a number of ftages to get frefli horfes and
provifions, my Tartar guide had frequent opportu
nities of indulging his felf-iraportance, and difplay-
ing his great authority and power. As foon as he
ftopped at a caravanfera, he immediately called
luftily about him in the name of the Sultan, de
manding with an imperious and menacing tone of
voice, frefh horfes, vidluals, &c. on the inftant.
The terror of this great man operated like magic ;
nothing could exceed the adlivity of the men, and
brifknefs of the women, and the terror of the chil
dren ; for the caravanferas are continually attended
by numbers of the very loweft claffes.of the people ;
but no quicknefs of preparation, no effort or in
duftry could fatisfy my gentleman ; he would fhew
me his power in a ftill more ftriking point of view,
and fall belaboiiring them with his whip, and kicking
them with all his might. I muft confefs I was much
hurt at this extravagant abufe of upftart power, and
was two or three times on the point of interfering ;
but fortunately, recolledled that it would neither be
in charadler, nor have any good effedt, and that if I
prefumed to fpeak, my guide would be pbliged in
F 5 my

106 ADVENTURES- IN AN
my defence, to give me a flogging in order to pre
vent fufpicion.
""" This inconfiderale tyranny and cruelty, I had
afterwards reafon to believe, was by no means a
part of his natural difpofition ; but valiity, to which
fo many among us in Europe fall vidlims, urged
him to exceffes, which I dare fay his heart privately
condemned. " It was on the fifth or fixth day (I cannot pre
cifely fay which) after our leaving Aleppo, that we
got to the city of Diarbeker, the capital of the pro
vince of that name, having paffed over an extent of
country of between three and four hundred miles,
moft of, it bleffed" with the greateft fertility, pro
ducing, in the few cultivated parts, grain, fruits of
various kinds, and filk in great variety and abu%
dance, and abounding with as rich paftures as I
ever beheld, covered with numerous herds and
flocks. The air was charmingly temperate in
the day-time, but, to my feeling, extremely cold
at night.J'
Yet notwithftanding the extreme fertility of this
country, the bad adminiftration of government^ ,
confpiring with the indolence of the inhabitants,
leaves it unpopulous and imcultivated. Diarbeker
Proper, . called alfo Mefopotamia, from its lying
between

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 197
between the two famous rivers Tigris and Euphra
tes, and by Mofes called Padan Aram, that is to
fay — "The fruitful Syria;" abounds with corn,
wine, oil, fruits, ahd all the neceffaries of life. Ic
is fuppofed to be the feat of the Earthly Paradife,
and all geographers agree that it was there the de-
fcendants of Noah firft fettled after the flood.
The city of Diarbeker itfelf is fituated in a de
lightful plain on the banks of the river Tigris, and
nearly at its head ; it is one of the richeft, moft
trading, ftrong, and populous cities in Afiatic
Turkey ; and is adorned with many piazzas and
market places in the Turkifli ftyle, and a large
magnificent mofquCj formerly a Chrifrian church ;
for Chriftianity fiouriflied over this country fo fate
as the fixth century. There is even no-vv a fedt,
whofe patriarch ftill refides here : and they fhew on
the road near the town, a chapei where the holy
man Job is faid to be buried. This city is lupplied
amply with water by a canal cut from the ligris,
and has many caravanferas on both fides of the
river. Few countries in the world exceed that about
this city for natural richnefs andlieauty : the bread
and wine are excellent — the fruit beyond concep
tion delicious — and the Tartar took care, under
pretence of' fupercilious hauteur, to tear in pieces a
F 6 couple

108 ADVENTURES IN AN
couple of fowls,, arid hand to the Captain now a leg
' npw a wingi till he made a mpft delicipus repaft. -
,! *.'Let the reader -figure to himfelf," fays Capt.
Campbdil, ,". my Tartar .guide, whp was an ad-
miirabfe adlor, fitting at a caravanfera in ftate at his
dinner, devouring excellent fowls, choice pillaws,
and delicious fruit, in as great pomp as a Balha-yy ;
and in order to keep up the feinblance of authority
over me, to fevour my difguife, handing to me,
whp fat at humble difiancej apart pf his provifions.
He may.^ fay) form to. himfelf an idea of the
fpene ; ,but all the efforts of imagination muft fall
fliort of the manner, the figure, the wonfc, the
looks, and the adtions of the Ta^^tar ; , -fometimes
affedling contemptuous pity, at others fuperciJioUs
- arrogance-;- fometimes brutal flernnefs, and the
gentle blandifhments of confcious fuperioritys and-
all in fuch a maftetly ftyle of performance, that -I
doubt whether Garrick himfelf, with all his'powefs
of countenance, could have outdone him. Critical
though my fituation was, and much as I w-es ha-
raffed with the corrofions of mental pain, thfe ex
travagant adtion and ludicrous pompofity of this
man frequently overbore ray 'prudence, and com
pelled me to laugh incontinently and - loudly ; oti
all fuch pccafipns he would pot his liands a-kiiiaie,
^ravV' up his eye-lffpws to his turban, fcrew d©wh
-- -_.,. .0 \.. ¦:': iiije

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 10S>
the corners of his mouth in the moft rueful manner,
and give a loud whew ! widi his eyes fixed in a
ftare at me, till entirely overcome with laughter,
and ready to fink under it, I clapped my face be*.
tyveen my hands, and as well as I could, bowed in
token of forrow and fubmiffion : when threatening
me vehemently, and at the fame time uttering a
lamentable expreffion of doubt that he was afraid
he had had an ideot impofed on him, he would
buftle about, direiSt the horfes to be gpt ready, and •
order me to get on horfeback, with many denuncia
tions of fevere treatment, and a thoufand flourifhes
of his whip over my head. 'v
"As we advanced towards the fouthward and
eaft ward, in our way from Diarbeker toward
Bagdad, I found the air became fenfibly^ warmer,
and obferved that the difpofition of the people grew
more and more brutal. My guide's conduct: (for
lie k-iiew them well) became proportionately artful,
and my manflers were of courfe to grow fo much
the humbler. I obferved, however, that his lai}-
thority continued the fame, and that he feemed to
exert it with greater rigour ; nor in feverity or chaf-
tif>ement,'but in exadling implicit obedience. Yet
ftill he evidently adted with great caution and cir-
cumfpedtion : for in fome diftridts, he eitlier
avoided the little villages by a circuitous route, or
dafhed through them at a very quick pace, while the
gaping

no ADVENTURES IN AN
gaping multitude confidered us as on a difpalgh
of hafte and importance — in, others, he entered the
towns 'without referve, and: left it to chance to de
cide whedier we fhould be difcovered or. noti At
fome caravanferas he treated me with affedied neg
ligence, at others he made me eat with him and
drink wine, of which, in fome: places^ he himfelf-
-drahk copioufly, and at others as fcrupuloufly re
frained, from. And fometimes -We lay at night out
in , the. open, air, rather than enter a town ; on
which occafions! found! the weather, as piercing
cold as it was dillref sfully hot in the day time.
Bred, as the man was, a mixture, of flave and ty
rant, I can fuppofe fome parts of this condudt to
arifer from caprice; but as he was naturally kind,
as many of thofe aberrations from the ufuai mode of
travelling/ were attended ¦wi'ith hardfhip and incon
venience to himfelf, .and -as my fervant and tlie
other Tartar were clearly of opinion he was right,
,1 ,am /rather difpofed to believe .that rbe,. on the
whole,, adted from principles of found fenfe and
--policyi'l-, .. ,-»>,,, ,bv, ,;,,)
,¦- •:•?: :.'': 3d 'sift '.,- ¦ .¦ 3fti ¦ . -;
-,w" He frequently advifed me againft indulging in
; labghter ; faid it was unmanily, indecorous, incoii-
fiftent with rhe gravity becoming a wife man, ahd
;widial dangerous. ..)¦:- ;
One

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. Ill
" One evening we came to a caravanfera much
fatigued, the day being extremely hot, and we hav
ing rode very hard ; whether it was caprice or fa
tigue, or the fuggeftion of policy that moved him, I
cannot fay, but he certainly was more difpofed to
play the tyrant than I had ever before feen him.
He flogged the men who took the horfes, kicked
every one he met, made the houfe ring with his
enormous voice ; diredted fupper to be got ready,
ate growling, and finding fault with. every thing;
and under pretence of difliking the ingredients of
an excellent pillaw, handed it over to me, faying.
Here, Jimmel (the name he called me) , here, take
diis- filth, and cram it down thy coarfe throat, it
is only fit for a Frank. I took it with the beft air
of humility I could affume : and tearing the meat
with my fingers, which I alfo ufed inftead of a
fpoon to eat the rice, fwallowed it eagerly ; he
watching me all the time attentively. When I
had finifhed it, I gave him a hint in the French
language, that I fliould like to wafli it down with
fome wine; but he did not, or rather would not
underftand me,
" Supper done, he ordered a fervant to attend
him with fome water, and diredled him to wafli his
feet; while that operation was performing, he
continued menacing every one about, him. My
fervant, who fat next me and behind me, inter
preted

IT2 ADVENTURES IN AN
preted every thing he faid. " Yes, ye flave," faid he,
as he lolled back upon hisciifhidn, " yes, I wiU make
the beft of you wafli rriy feet ; for who fhall refufe
to wafh the feet of him, who reprefents the Sultaii
of the World, the Son of Mahomet, the Meffenger
of the Lord?" The poor feflow pi;oceeded in his
humble office, and only interrupted him by faying,
" Bleffed be my Lord the Sultan, and glory be to
the Lord- our God, and Mahomet his prophet" —
" Yes, yes," continued my Tartar, " blefs Gpd
and the prophet, and pray for his fervant our Sultan,
and all who repreferit him like me, that flaves of
your defcription are permitted to live: nay, thou
fhalt wafh this Frank's feet:^' then, turning to me
with an air. of maglfterial tendernefs, " Jimmel,"
faid' he,' " hold forth thy feet, and let them be
waiflied'liy 'this difciple of Ali — I fay, hold forth
thy feet. "''^ J - , ^^ ,
" Scarcely able to refrain from laughter "at
this bombardinian of the eaft, and his pompous man
ner of iftuingUis orders, I drew up my tro-wfers
and took off my boots — the man brought frefh wa
ter, and fell to rubbing my ^ feet with great good
-will kiid humility, yet eviilehtly felt fo much hurt
af The humiliation, that I was forry for it, and
wouki rather have difpenfed with the walhing,
though' it wis a' luxury.- ' . '

In

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 1 IS
" In the midft of this operation, the Tartar,
who was reclining on his cufhion, fmoaking, rofe
up, and ftalking two or three times acrofs the room^
with the moft'ludicrous air of felf-conceit and im
portance, took his tobacco pipe from his mouth,
brandiflied it in ©ftentatious parade, and in the tone
andmanner rather of one tliat was raving than of a
man in his fober fenfes,. burft out with an empha
tical expreffion of fatisfadtion, and faid, " This it
is to be protedled by a great man : Muffulmen fa-
hm to him and wafli hiii feet."
"The extravagance of this fentiment, the ab-
furdity of its application,' and the confequential fo-
lemnity of his adtion and countenance while he
fpoke, all together ruflied upon me with fuch im
petuous force, that I could not refift it, and, in
fpite of every effort to reftrain myfelf, burft into
an immoderate fit of laughter.
" Had I the pencil of Hogarth, the pen of
Shakfpeare, or the powers of Garrick,. 1 might
attempt to give fome idea of hi.s countenance, when
turning, he beheld me convulfed with laughter. I
might attempt it, I fay, but Icould not do it juftice.
Such a combination -6f ludicrous expreffion I never
beheld ; it was, indeed, an epitome of all the
Jower order of human paflions. Fury predorai-
natedj but it was rifible fury— it was fury that ra
ther

114- ADVENTUTlES IN AN
ther grinned than frowned ; though under it were to
be feen fhame and mortification, forrow and refent-
inpnt, pride and degradation, filly balhfulnefs aad
decayed importan-ce. For fome time he ftood tranf-
fixed to the fpot, his eyes gliftening-like thofe of a
rat in a trap ; liis pointed whifkers moving with the
contortions of his lips, and liis mouth every now"
ahd then opening like the beak of a wounded hawk.
To. utter his fenfations hf was unable ; and he con
tinued in this ftate, not only till my laughter was
abated, but till I had time to refledt and be feriouf
ly concerned.
" At length, without faying, a fentence, be
wheeled, about, threw off his flippers, drew on. his
boots, vociferated till he brought all the people of
the caravanfera about-him, and ordered horfes to be
ready inftantly. As orders from fuch a perfon
were not likely to be -difobeyed, the horfes were got
ready. I faw that I muft -either proceed, or come
to an. open rupture with -him; fp recolledling that
I wag myfelf in fault, that a difpute might be fatal,
and that at all events it was only the'humour of the
moment, I drew on my boots too, and was ready
to go, though I was much fitter for a twelve
hours' nap, than for an hour's travelling on horfe
back.
"We

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 1 1 9"
" We mounted immediately, and it was my
good fortune to have' the beft horfe. He fet out
upon the gallop, the moon fliining as bright almoft
as day ; I put forward my horfe, and kept rather
before him, -which vexed him fo, that he beat the
poor animal he rode on moft unmercifully. At
feiigth, after about eight or ten miles riding, he
called a halt, difmounted, and faid he would reft
there all night. Ifaw it was all refentment : but
knowing that it Would be in vain to remonftrate, I
difmounted too ; and, judging that the beft way to
mortify him in return, was to comply with affedied
approbation, turned to my fervant and told him
(knowing that it would go from him to the Tartar)
that I was delightgd with the beauty of the night 'j
remarking, at the fame time, that lying in the fweet
-falubiious air was far preferable to being confined
in the fultry filth of a caravanfera.
"As foon as this was communicated to the
Tartar, he remarked, that the open air was the
fitteft place for the beafts of the foreft, and there
fore fuitable to a Frank ; but for his part, he would
much rather repofe on a cufhion, which he fhould
have done, had it not been for my accurfed rifible
faculties. " Here the converfation refted, and we fell
afleep. In a few hours he awoke us, and we fet for
ward ;

•»e ADVENTURES IN AN
ward:, after fome paufe, he began in the followfntf
manner, which was interpreted to me, as he fpoke,
by my fervent :
"Surely, God "made laughter for the derifion
and fhame of mankind, and gave it to the Franks
and the monkiesf ; for the one ha, ha, ha's, and thd
o,ther he, he, he's; and both aie malicious, mif-
chievous, and good for nothing but to fret and tan-»
taliiae ail that come acrofs them."
" Here he paufed, as waiting; fpr fomething to
be faid: however, I remained filent. At length,
he continued: " Not biit that, with all their laugh
ter, they have the wifdom to take fpecial care of
themfelves; for half a dozen, monkies will he,\ hei
he, and empty a whole orchard of its fruit in the
jeckoning of a hundred ; and a Frank will ha, ha,
ha, and eat you pp pillaws and poultry like a wolf,
arid drink up wine with the fame moderation that
a .camel diinks up water."
" I thought I fliould have choaked with fmo
thered laughter: I would not, however, interrupt
him, and fo conttived to keep it to myfelf: he
proceeded to apothegmatife :
" But with all their he, he,, he's, and ha, ha,
ha's, it fometimes turns out that they are caught :
- , . the

OVERJ'AND JOURNEY TO INDIA. ! IT
the monkey is feized in a trap, and caged or
knocked o' the head, and the Frank is put in jail,
and baftinadoed or hanged : and then the tune is
changed, and it is Oh, ho, ho ! " Here he began to
mimic, crying fo admirably, and at the fame time
fo ridiculoufly, that I burft out laughing again.
" Observe, Jimmel," faid he, haftily, " ob-
feive! you can't refrain! But by our holy prophet,"
faid he, ferioufly, " it may end as I faid: fo look
to yourfelf, and avoid laughter in caravanferas, or
we part; for there are places, and that was one of
them laft night. Where fufpicion would ruin you.
And if you loft your life, what fliould I fay for
myfelf on my return to y\leppo? Eh, what fliould
I fay for myfelf.' Ha, ha, ha, would not do. No,
no, they would not believe it, and I fliould lofe
my charadter."
" Why, Don't you laugh yourfelf fj^ faid I.
"Very feldem, or radier never," returned he;
" at leaft I would not hi time of danger. NO) no,
none but Chriftians and monkies make a pradtice
of laughing — Turks and Tartars are wifer." I pro
mifed him, that I would in future take more care;.
and, by way of appealing him with a little flattery,
faid, that he played his part fo admirably, it was
¦ .impoffible tp refiff the impulfe. But he anfwered, with

lis ADVENTUTRES IN AN
. with a grave face, that his a^Stion in that cafe waS
of too ferious a nature to be made a fubjedl of mer
riment, and advifed me to helieve it fo;
"The folicitude of my guide for my fafety was
the earneftnefs of a man of bufinefs iidalous to dif-
charge with the utmoft pundiiuality the duty he had
Undertaken ; and I muft obferve, that the whole of
his cohdudl evinced a precifion and pundluality of
dealing rarely found in our intercourfe with man
kind. Previous to leaving Aleppo, he had under
taken to convey me fafe — ^he was indefatigable and
unremitting in his endeavours tP dp fp; he had prp-
mifed tp fupply me with food — fp he did, in the
moft ample manner ; he promifed to go as I
pleafed, faft or flow — fp he did ; he promifed to
change horfes vl^ith me, -as often as I thought
proper to defire — he did fo. But heiyond this, he
feemed to carry his care of me no farther than to
any bale of-<goods he might have in his charge. He
was bound to deliver me fafe, in good order and
condition, at Bagdad: fo much he was determined
to dp, and np more did he think of. I had got
letters to the Bafliaws of fome of the towns through
which we were to pafs : but as the delivery of a
letter is, according to the cuftom of that country,
alvvays' accompanied with a prefent, I thought it
better to decline delivering them, except when ne
ceffity compelled— though the ftate of *the country" was

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 119
was fo unfetded, that we often had occafion for a
guard. " As foon as the remembrance of the laflghing
affair was a little decayed, the Tartar began to re
lax into good humour, and to talk with his ufual ve
hemence ; for he was always, according to the flow
of his fpirits:, either fullenly filent or extravagantly
loquacious. His tongue might be confidered as a
thermometer, by which the warmth or coldnefs of
his temper might be calculated, and the extremes of
garrulity and taciturnity were the indices. His
converfation, however, was very circumfcribed,
and confifted chiefly of ftories of himfelf and his
horfe, the amazing journeys he had made, and the
feats of manhood he had performed. One circum
ftance I muft in juftice mention, as I think it
marks ftrongly the habitual delicacy and raodefty
of this people. Although he frequently laraented
my banifliment from my family, and although we
were for eighteen days continually converfing on a
variety of occafions that might lead to the fubjedl,
he never once talked of women; never, in all his
pity for my fituation, glanced even remotely 'at the"
poffibility of my getting a fubftitute in that way ;
never hinted that he thought of them himfelf. On
feeing women coining to the wells, they reminded
me of fome of the ftories of the Old Teftament. I
mentioned

jio ADVENTURES IN AW
mentipned it, but it went no farther; for when
ever the fubjedt was ftarted he feemed to evade it.
" Th-at he conceived me -to be in fome rrfpedls
a parcel of property, I have goo4 reafop tp befleYc:
for I obferved that at fome caravanferas the people
colledted round me, and regarded me with ftrosg
fymptoms pf furprife. and pity; fpme viewed nje
witji cpmmiferation, fome with contempt; but not
^ne- creature, however wretched or abjedt, feemed
tP envy my fituatipn.
" I WAS the more confirmed in this opinion by
an Incident that happened between Diarbeker itnd
Moful. Oiie morning I -vyas unufually overcome
-with the fatigues of the preceding day : the Tartar
called- me, fummoned me to horfe; and finding that
I, gave no aijfwer, nor fhewed any token of awak-»
ing, he liftgd^me in his arms boldly from my couch
(fuch wa^ his fli'ength that he, did it without any
diffipulty),, carried, ipe put without the leaft cere-.
mony, and, before I was fo completely awake as to
be feipf^le of jny fituatipn, had me fixed upon a
horfe ready to depart.
,, *| A t^nsaction fo very fingular, it may
¦vyell he concluded, furprifed me at the time, and
would not readily he forgotten : fuch a crowd of
ftrange, confufed, and incongruous thoughts and
fenfations ,

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 121
fenfations as occurred to me, I never before expe
rienced : tliey were painful, they were furprifiug —
but I was in fuch a ftate that I could not afterwards
analyfe them. The chief refledtions that arofe from
it was, that human fentiment muft be in a de
plorable ftate of degradation indeed, when fuch a
circumftance could occur from the notion that a
man was as much a piece of property, could be
transferred by the fame means, and moved in the
fame unfeeling manner, as any portion of inert
matter that makes up a bale of merchandize. ' Of
the truth of diis pofition I had foon after a melan
choly truth, in an incident which, though lamen
table, was attended with fuch ludicrous circum
ftances, that even now I never think of it without
fmiling — fmiling, as I did then, with a heart bleed
ing with pity.
'4. " One morning I was awakened before day
break with a buftle in the caravanfera where wc
lodged. I conjedtured that the Tartar was prepar
ing to get forward, and rofe in order to lofe no time.
I was f6 far right in my conjedlures : the horfes
were ready, I came out to mount, and was very
much furprifed to perceive feveral horfes before me
loaded with fomething which ftood efedt from their
backs, and which I had barely light to difcern were
not men. I concluded that they were bales of mer
chandize packed up in a particular form, and alked

aa? .*I.t AiBVE-NTVRES IN AN
iBO .qmfliorB till full day-light difclofed to me that
^hey were human creatures tied up in .facks, and
faftened aftride on the horfes' backs. There was a
ftrange union of horror andxiddity in the conception,
ahd it flruck fne at once with a mixed emotion.of in-
-dignation,. pity, and mirth. The former, how
ever, got the better, and I alked my fervant widi
fome warmth what it meant. He faid that the
"facks contained fpme young women whom the
Tartar had bought.—" Good God ! " faid I, " is it
poffible that he can have bought wretched femstes
to treat them with fp little, tendernefs ? " — " He has
bou^t them," returned my fervant, " in the- way
of traffic, not for pleafure."
" Suppose he lias," faid I, " fuppofe even
they were men, not to mention young womeii, how
can he imagine that they will furvive this .? Tied .
up 'and fweltered in a faek-— -faftened crpfs-legs on a
iorfe, and driven at fuch an amazing rate (for by
;his time we had fet forward, arid another Tartar ,
iv.as whipping the horfes up all the time, and driv-
ng thenj on) — how is it poffible they can furvive:?
They muft be fmothered ^- the mjilt be fhatt?red.
0 pieces— 'they rtiuft be ftripped, excoriated, and
ortured to death!" '
" If I might prefume ta advife," faid he, " I
^ould fay that you had better make no remafJcs upon

OVERLAND JOURNEY XO INDIA. 128
it : it would only get them perhaps worfe treated,
and raife his anger againft you." '
" To conclude, I took his advice, and kept m^
mind to myfelf. The unfortunate women were in
this manner carried fifty miles, at the end of which
their tender-hearted purchafer difpofed of them in
fome way of keeping till his return ; -wlien I fup
pofe they were to be carried back in facks aftride
upon horfes, all the way to Aleppo, there to be
fold to the higheft bidder.
" To us, who live in a country where an
hour's detention in a houfe againft our will, is pu-
nifhed as unlawful imprifonment, and who feel
and value the rich treafure of liberty above all
earthly bleffiiigs, the bare idea of flavery appears
horrible ; when the miferies of flavery are ftiar-
pened by cruelty, our indignation burns at the
offence : but fuch a complicated piece of enormity
as that I have mentioned, almoft tranfcends belief,
and indignation is loft in amazement. There are
but few men, even in our bracing climate, whom
fifty miles riding would not ftiake to pieces, and
torture almoft te death. No woman would think
of it. But when to that is fuperadded, firft the
compulfion — then the forry and at beft painful
equipage of the hoifes — the tender perfons, unac-
cuftomed to riding, of the women— die tprturing
G 2 pofition

fS4 ADVENTURES IK AW
ijpbfition in which they rode — the fmothering heat
of the fack — and, above all, dic horrid climate,
burning with an almoft vertical heat (vertical at
leaft compared with bur oblique fun) — it will be
allowed to be a wonder, almoft approaching to a
Biiracle, that they fprvived one half of their jour
ney. The wonder-working hand of Omnipotence
alone could bring them through it; and when I
afked in the evening whether they were dying or
deadi and was told that they were :not only alive
but in perfedl health, I could not help repeating
that moft beautiful expreffion put into the mouth
of Maria by the inimitable Sterne, " God tempers
the vvind to the fliorn lamb."
"This affair tended to prejudice me ftrongly
againft my Tartar guide, and for fome time I
could not look upon him without honor: but, at
length my refentment abated ; and reafon, refura-
ing her feat of cool decifion, told me, that though
it was a crime, and a^rieyous one, he was not fo
refponfible for it as thofe who, knowing better,
authorifed it by their concurrence, gave it the fanc-
tion of law, and made it familiarly pratSlifed j he
only did that which he had been even from his mo
ther's breaft inftrudled to do, and fliould therefore
not be judged by thofe rules which a Briton would
lay down for the government of fuch cafes."

OVERLAND JOORNEY TO INDIA. 125

CHAPTER THE FIFTH.

EXTRAVAGANT CONDUCT OF THE TARTAR,
WHICH HE AFTERWARDS SATISFACTORILY
EXPLAINS.  EXTRAORDINARY INCIDENT
AND ADDRESS OF THE TARTAR IN THE CASE
OF THE SANTONS.  ARRIVAL AT, AND DE
SCRIPTION OF MOSUL.  A STORY-TELLER.  ¦
A PUPPET-SHEW. — THE TARTAR FORCED TO
YIELD TO LAUGHTER, WHICH HE HAD SO
MUCH CONDEMNED.  SET OUT FOR BAG
DAD. — CALLENDERS, THEIR, ATFUL PRAC
TICES. ¦

i?ROM the confideration alreadv mentioned,
our traveller's mind was by no means at eafe. The
inceffant journeying for.fo many days, at the rate
of feventy-five miles a day, to be continued he knew
not how, long, increafed his anxiety : and the ap
prehenfions of accident, interruption, and above
all ficknefs, intercepting him on his way, haunted
his imagination with all its 'terrors. He was befides
approaching faft to that region where the winds
ftrike all living things that draw them in inftanriy
dead : and conceiving that the more expeditious he
was in getting over the journey, the greater chance
be had of efcaping 'thofe mifchiefs, he pufhed
G 3 heartily

126 ADVENTURES Mt AN
heartily forward, and urged the Tartar, till he at
laft expreffed his aftonifliment and approbation ;
paid the Captain the compliment to fay, that he
'was almoft equal to himfelf for enduring fatigue ;
and concluded with a very fagacious furmife, that
in all probability he had been himfelf a carrier of
difpatches among the Frank governments.
One day, after they had rode about four miles
from a caravanfera, at which they had changed cat
tle, Capt. Campbell fpund that a moft execrably
bad horfe had fallen to his lot : he was ftiff, feeble,
and foundered ; in confequence of which he ftum-
bled very much, and the Captain every minute ex-
pedled that he would fall and roll over him. He
therefore prpppfed tp the guide to exchange wlfhi
him ; a favour he had hitherto never refufed, and
for which Capt. Campbell was the more anxious,
as the beaft the Tartar rode was of the very beft
kind. To his utter aflionilhment- the Tartar pe
remptorily refufed : and as this had been a day of
unufual taciturnity on his part, our traveller attri
buted his refufal to peevifhnefs and ill temper, and
was refolved not to let the matter reft there. He
therefore defired the interpretcF to inform him, that
as he had. at Aleppo agreed to change horfes with
him as often as he pleafed, he fliould confider their
agreement infringe"d upon if he did not comply, and

.OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 127
ani would write to the Conful at Aleppo to that
cffea. - As foon as this was conveyed to the Tartar, he
feemed ftrongly agitated by anger ; yet endeavoured
to conceal his emotions under affedted contempt
and derifion, which produced from him one of the
moft fingular grins that ever yet marred the human
phyfiognomy. At length he broke forth :
" You will write to Aleppo, will you? Foplifh
Frank I they will not believe you ! By Mahomet,
it would be well done to' hear the complaint of a-
wandering Frank againft Haffan Artaz— Haffan the
feithful and the juft, who for ten years ^nd more
kas been the meffenger of an Emperor, and the
friend and confident of Cadis, Bafhaws, and- Vice-
Joys, and never yet was- called fo much as liar.^
Who, think you, poor mifguided one ! who, think
you,.^ would believe that I broke my promffe f*
« 'Whv do you not then," faid the Captkin, inj-
terrupting him, " why do you not perform it by
changing horfes, when you are convinced in your
conference (if you have any) that it was" part of your
agreement?"— ^« Once for ah I tell you," inter
rupted he, " I win not give up this horfe. There
is not," faid he gafconadingly, " there is not a
Mulfiilman that ever wore a beard, not to talk of a
G 4 wretched

128 ADVENTURES IN AN~
Wretched Frank, that fhould get this horfe from un»
der me ; I would not yield him to the Commander
of the Faithful this minute, were he in your place:
I would not, I tell youj Frank, and 1 have my,
own reafons for it."
" I DARE fay you have," returned the Captain;
* love of your eafe, and fear of your bones."
A T hearing this, he grew quite outrageous ; call
ed Mahoinet and Alia to -witnefs that he did not
know what it was to fear any thirig : declared that
he was convinced fome infernal fpirit had that day
got poffeffion of his fellow-traveller ; and,, indeed,
feemed well difpofed to go to loggerheads. Ac
length, obferving that the Captain looked at him
with fneering contemptuous defiance, he rode up
along fide of him, fnatched the reins out of his hand^ ,
and caught hold of them colledled clofe at the
horfe's jaw; thep fell flogging the Captain's horfe
and fpurring his own, till he got them both into full
fpeed : : nor did he ftop there, but continued to be
labour the poor jade with his whip, and to fpur his
own, driving li^adlpng over every impediment that
came in their way, till the Captain really thought
he had run toad, or d^figned to kill, him. SsiVeral
times he was on the poi:;t of ftriking him with his -
whip, in order to knock him off his horfe; but as
often patience providentially came in tp his affift ance

OVERLAND JOURNEV TO INDIA. 129
ance and whifpered to him to forbear, and fee it out.
Mean time, he confidered himfelf as being in fome
danger; and yet fuch was the power tlie Tartar had
over the cattie, that he found it impoffible to ftop
him; fo refigning the event to the diredlion of Pro
vidence, he fuffered him without a further effort to"
proceed, calling him, however, every opprobrioiis
name he could think of in lingua Franca ; and the
Tartar grinning, and calling him dumiis, iihalh,
burhl (i.e. hog, afs, mule), in rapid and impetuous
vehemence of tone and utterance.
He continued this for ifome miles, over an-un-'
cultivated tradt, here and there interfedted with
channels formed by rills of water in the periodical
rains ; thickly fet with low furze, ferns, and other
dwarf bufhes, and broken up and down into little
hills. His horfe carried him clean over all : and
though the Captain was every minute ftumbiing
and nearly down, yet with a dexterity inexpreffible,
and a vigour altogether amazing, the Tartar kept
him up by the bridle, and in fadl carried him gal
lantly over every thing. " I was (fays our travel
ler), aftonifhed very much at all this, and toward
die end as much pleafed as aftoni?hed'; which he
perceiving, cried out frequentiy and triumphandy,
" O, la Frangj 1 Heli J Heli ! Frangi 1" and at lafts
•drawing in the horfes, ftppping fliort, and looking
G b me

130< ADVENTURES IN AN
me full in the face, exclaimed in lingua Franca,
*^Que ^ce, Frangi — Que dice?"
"FotR fome time I was incapable of making him
a«y anfwer, but coQtinued furyeying him from head
to foot,, as the mofl; extraordinary favage I had ever
beheld ; while he ftroked his whifl^ers with great
felf-complaeency and compofure, and nodded his
head every now and then, as much as to fay, Ay,
agf,, ir is fo ? look at me 1 A'nt I a very caepital fel
low? — "A capital feUow indeed you are," thought
I, " but I wifli I was well out of your confounded
clutches

»

They alighted on the brow of a fttiall hill,
'Whence was to be feen a full and uninterrupted
profpedl of the cpuntry all arpund. The interpreter
coming' up,, the Tartar called to him and' defired
him to explain to his mafkr carefully the meaning
pf what he was ahout to fay ; which was nearly as
fiallows, as it was tranflated by the linguift:
" You fee thofe mountains yonder," faid he,.
jointing to the eaft ; " thofe are in the province of
Kurdeflan, inhabited, by- a -yile race of robbers, cal»
led.Jefides, who pay homage to a God of their own,;
•called. Jefid (Jefus), and, worfhjp the Devil from'
%ar.. They live by plunder, andoflen defceiid frpm.
tiwfe mountains, crofs ^as Tigris, which runs be
tween

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA; 131
tween them and us, and plunder and ravage this
country in bands of great number, and formidable
ftrengdi, carrying away into flavery all they can
catch, and killing all who refift them. This coun
try, therefore, for fome diftance round us, is very
dangerous to travellers, whofe only fafety lies in
flight. Now it was our misfortune this morning
to get a very bad horfe, for which, pleafe Alia
(ftroking his whifkers), fome one fhall receive the
baftinadp. Should we meet with a band of thofe
Curds, what could we do but fly ? , And if you,
Frangi, rode this horfe, and I that, we could, ne
ver efcape : for I doubt you could not keep him up
from falling under me, as I did under you : I
fliould therefore come down and be taken ; yoB
would lofe your guide, and mifs your way, and all
of us be undone. Befides," continued he, " there
are many villages here where people live, who,i if
they only fufpedted you were a Frank, would fol
low and facrifice you, if they could, to MahOmef,
and where of courfe you muft run for it."
As foon as the interpreter bad explained this to
the Cfiptain, " WeU," continued the Tartar, " wh^t
does, he fay now to it?", Then turning round, ajid
toffing up his head, " Que dice, Frangi? "
" Why; I fay," returned Captain Campbell,
" that you have fpoken found fenfe and good rea
fon ; and I am obliged to you."
G6 "This,

132 ADVENTURES IN AN
;; "This,, when interpreted fully, operated moft
pleafmgly upon him ; his features relaxed .into- a
broad lopk of fatisfadtion, and he faid : " I will do
every thing I can to make you eafy and contented;
and when I ani obftinate, don't, refift; for be affured
I have reafon for it ; and above all things avoid
laughing in my prefence. But we fhall reach Mo
ful by and by, and probably then we may have no
more rides." For the Captain expefted to get down
the' river Tigris from Moful to Bagdad, and had
told him fo, and he encouraged him with the ex-
pedlation.,. " That night," fays Capt. Campbefl, " we
came to a caravanfera, which lay at fome diftance
from a village. Here the Tartar, pleafed with him
felf for ,the condudl of the day, and pleafed with
me for my apprqbation of it, ordered a moft ^ditii-
rable" fupper ; and not only, as was very common
with him, rejedted the beft.difh in order to prefent
it to me, but alfo feledled for me the choiceft bits
of thofe upon the table. He then ordered wine,
obferving that the fatigue of a Government Meffen
ger demanded indulgence; and'ufmg a falvo of my
fuggeftion on a former occafion, viz. that the Pro
phet would not be offended with travellers more
than with t|^P fi.ck, for takiog it as it were medtei-

"We

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 133
" We accordingly had wine, and admirable it
was, though by no means equal to that we drank at
the city of Diarbeker. I took little, however, and
the Tartar was much furprifed at my abftemiouf-
nefs, remarking, that he never faw a Frank before
that was not a downright hog when he got the cup
to his lips. My taking it in fmall portions, while
he drank it as we do table beer, particularly afton
ifhed him. Before he lay down on his couch, he
gave orders for horfes, thieatening the people with
fevere caftigarion If they gave bad ones; holding
up as an example the perfon that gave us the ftum-
bhng horfe that day, who he declared fhould be
baftinadoed as foon as he returned, if there was a
Cadi within ten leagues of him ; and I dare fay
that he kept his word moft religioufly.
" TiiE nej^t morning we had excellent cattle ;
fear produced wonders among them ; and we fet
forward juft as the fun rofe. As we entered the firft
village, I was fomewhat alarmed by perceiving my
guide draw up his horfe, deliberate, mutter to hira-^
felf, and feem rather uneafy, while he viewed a
crowd that was up the ftreet .before us ; fome of
whom I perceived to be agitated with fome extraor
dinary motions of the body, while one man ftood in
the 'middle, rolling his body into a variety of ftrange
contortions. The Tartar, for a minute or two,
feemed to be debating within himfelf -whether he
fliould

13* ADVENTORES IN AN
fhould proceed or turn about : at length puttiHg me
on his left hand, he fet forward at full fpeed, leav
ing the crowd on his right, who, feeing the rapidity
of our pace, flew on one fide, and let us pafs. We
foon, however, heard fhouting behind us, and couldf
hear plainly the words " Ghiaour ! Frangi Cucu !"
and looking back, perceived feveral ragged men,
Kke favages, purfuing u», lifting ftones ocGafipnally,
¦ and cafiing them after us with all their might. The
fpeed pf PUT hprfes at laft gpt us put pf both fight
and hearing ; and I plainly perceived, and was fw
the firft- time convinced^ that my guide's condudl
was diredted by found fenfe, %(irit, good faith, and
integrity." '_
This extraordinary occurrence, however, re
quired explanation, and the Tartar was not back
ward in giving it ; for he loved exceedingly to hear
himfelf talk-, and, on any fubjedl within the com-
pafs of his knowledge, was fhrewd, ^rfpicuous,
and even naturally eloquent : he had moreover on
that occafion a(^ed the part of a fkilful general j and
as the Captain applauded his prudence and addrefs^
he was extremely kind and communicativei and
gave hirn a full account of the affair, his motives,
his deliberations, and the urgency of the cafe; and,
in fhort, every thing tliat could elUcidate the cir-
tumftance, or aggrandize his own importance.
"Ypu

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. IJ5
" You muft know," faid he, "that there are
fpread over the face of this great and glorious em
pire a number of dcrvifes of different kinds — holy
men, who renounce the enjoyments and pleafures of
the world, to conyerfe with Mahomet, and worfhip
Alia. Some of thofe are very good men, indeed
faints, and never do any thing bad ; pleaching and
praying, without hurting any thing, even a rat or a
fnake ; nay, they would not hurt a Chriftian. There
are others again, of whom I have heard our Bafhawt
and Effendis, and even the Mazeen, declare that
they are forbid by the Koran; and yet the common
people (the lower fort, you know, have no fenfe)
reverence and worfhip them ; they are called San-
tons ; live by themfelves, fometimes under ground,
like rabbits, and- fometimes in the thickets and
woods. They go where they pleafe, take the beft
feat in any man's houfe, cram themfelves with meat
and drink, and yet none refift them ; for fome will
not, and others dare not. Nay, they often pollute
women in the open ftreets : and they never fet theiy
eyes on a Chriftian or a Frank, that they will not
kill, if poffible. For my part, I think that they
ought to be hanged, every one of them diat had a
head to be hanged by; or rather ftaked: for no
punifliment is too great for tliem ; hut I dare not
fay fo in that town ; if I did, I fliould be ftoned to
dsath by the rabble. "As

136: ADVENTURRS IN AN
" As foon as I perceived the crowd, and the raf-'
cals dancing, I knew that . they were Santons, and
was fure that they woiild ftop us in-order to exadl
money from us; in which cafe they would moft-
probably have difcovered you, for they have the'
eyes of the devil. Nothing then could fav? your
life: the crowd would join them, and your brains-
, would have been beat out with ftones- I had a m1nd
to turn back and go round the town, but that might
have caufed fufpicion, and got us, perhapis; inter
cepted: fo I determined to pufh by them bodly,
which I did, you can teftify, like a brave man.
You faw enough yourfelf, to convince you of the
danger you fiave efcaped, and of my wifdom and
valour ; let me therefore intreat you to be entirely
guided by me, and above all things avoid that ac
curfed propenfity to laughter." • \
" But how comes it, Haffan," faid the Captain,
" that you, who have fo much power at the cara
vanferas, have not power to refift thofe rafcally
Santons, or the mobs of a village ? "
" Why, as to the mob," faid he, " if I was by
myfelf, or had^only a true believer with me, I wouli
make them fly before me like the duft before the
wind. As to the Santons, no one can refift them :
the great, who hate them, are obliged to fliew them
refpe«£t ; and the Bafhaw of Aleppo, nay the Com-
inaiideF

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 137
mander of the Faithful himfelf, could not fave you,
if one of them called on the mob to ftone you, or
tear you to pieces. However, be of good cheer ;
for, pleafe Alia, I will deliver you fafe and found
to the Coja at Bagdad : befides, we fhall very foon
be at Moful, from whence we will go down by wa
ter, which will be very pleafant : and the chief dan
ger then will be in fair fighting, which is better than
being cut off by Santons. SJiould there be occa
fion," faid he, looking moft ferocioufly, and bran-
diftiing his whip ; " fhould we be attacked by Curds
or robbers, you fliall fee, Jimmel! — Oh! holy
prophet, how I'll fight 1 "
It was early in the evening when the pointed
turrets of the city of Moful opened, on their view,
and communicated no very unpleafant fenfations to
our traveller's heart. He found himfelf on fcripture
ground ; and could not help feejing fome portion of
the pride of the traveller, when he refledled, that
he was now within fight of Nineveh, renowned in
holy writ. The city is fituated in a very barren fandy
plain, on the banks of the river Tigri.s, embellifhed
with the united gifts of Pomona, Ceres, and Flora.,
The external view of the town is much in its fa
vour, being encompaffed with fiately walls of folid
ftone, over which the fteeples, or minarets, .of other
lofty buildings are feen with increafed effedt. Here
he firft faw a large caravan encamped, halting on its

158 , . ADVENTU-RES IN AN
its march from the Gulph;'of Perfia to Armenia •;
and it made a moft noble appearance, filling the
eye with a multitude of grand objedts, all uniting"
to form one magnificent whole. ''

But though the outfide be fo beautiful, the infide
ifi: moft deteftable : the heat is fo interife, that in the
middle of the day there is no ftirring out ; and evert
at night the- walls of the houfes are fo heated by the
day's fun, as to produce a difagreeabre heat to the
body at a foot or evena yard diftance from, them.
However,, he entered it with fpirits,- becaufe he
Confidered it as the laft ftaige of the part worft o£
Ills pilgrimage. But he was difappointed in his ex-
peStation ! for the Tigris was dried up by the in-
tenfity of the heat, and an unufually long drought :'
and he was obliged to take the matter with a patient
flirug, and accommodate his mi-nd to a jourrtey on
liorfeback, which, though not fo long as that he
had already made, was likely to be equally dan
gerous, and which therefore demanded a full exex'^
tion of fortitude and refolution. There are a thou-
fend latent energies in every man, -which only wanB
the powerful voice of neceffity to call them out;
and now, drawn to the top of his bent, he prepared
his mind to fet out in the morning, with as much^
cheerfuhiefs as if the hopes of water carriage to
Bagdad had never once occurred to his mind. ,

It

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 159
It was ftill the hot feafon of the year, and they ¦
were to travel through that country, over which the
horrid wind before mentioned fweeps its confuming
blafts : it is called by the Turks, Samiel ; is men
tioned by holy Job under the name of the eaft wind,
and extends its ravages all the way from the ex
treme end of the gulph of Cambaya up to Moful ;
it carries along with it fleaks of fire, like threads
of filk : inftantly ftrikes dead thofe that -breathe it,
and confumes them inw-ardly to aflies ; the flefli
foon becoming black as a coal, and dropping off
from the bones. Philofophers confider it as a kind
of eledlric fire, proceeding from the fulphureous or
nitrous exhalations, which are kindled by the apita-
tion of the winds. The, only poffible means of efcape
from its fatal effedls is to fall flat on the ground,
and thereby prevent the drawing it in: to do this,
however, it is neceffary firft to fee it, which is not
always pradlicable.
But befides this, the ordinary heat of the cli
mate is extremely dangerous to the blood and lungs,
and even to the fkin, which It blifters and peels a-
way frora the flefh, affecting the eyes fo much, that
travellers are obliged to wear a tranfparent cover
ing over them to keep the heat off.
That night Haffan faid, that as they muft
proceed to Bagdad on horfeback, he would ftay the
next

140 ADVENTURES IN AN'
next at, Moful, to refrefh j "which," fays Capt,
Campbell, " I objedted to: he then fpoke of the
fucceeding part of the journey as a trifling thing :
we had already come near nine hundred miles,
and had not above five hundred to go : befides, as
the weather was warmer, we would travel more in
the night, and lie-by in the day-time, in places
with which he was weH acquainted.
" In fliort, the poor fellow feemed to take an
ihtereft in my fafety, and to wifh to alleviate the
pains pf my. mind ; and he always concluded with a
remonftrance againft laughing, which from fre
quently. hearing I now underftood even in his own,
language. — " Don't laugh, Jimmel,. don't laugh,"
he wpuld fay with great folemnity. By tjie bye, I
obferved, that wlien he was well difpofed to me, he
alyyays called me Jlminel (a name which I prefume
he conftrudled with my fervant's affiftance, from the;
refemblance of found between Campbell and Camel,
Jimmel being the Turkifh name for that animal) ;
and when angry, he called me Frangi, 'with all its
gradations of Turkifli abufe, Dumus, Cucu, &c,
, " That evening, as •we fat in the caravanfera,
a, man entWed and fpoke to Haffan, who feemed to
pay great attention to what he was faying. - He
was a well-made man, below the middle fi?e, and
bad that kind of countenance which befpeaks flirewd-
,1 ^ , nefs,

OVERLAND JOURNEY TOINDIA. 141
nefs, ingenuity and mirth. At length he retired ;
and foon after Haffan bid us rife and follow hiin :
he went into a fort of public room, where a num
ber of people were colledted, fitting, as is the cuf
tom in coffee -houfes, on low ftools. Haffan pointed
to me to fit down, which I did : then placing the
interpreter near us, he fat himfelf: and ftraight I
perceived the little man, who had juft been fpeak
ing to him, ftep forth from the crowd, and begin
to pronounce a fort of prologue, which I neither
underftood nor wifhed to underftand : it appeared,
from his cadences, to be metrical, and feemed, by
the little impreffion it made on the auditors, to have
nothing particular to recommend it. At length,
however, he paufed, and hemming feveral, times,
to clear his pipes, began again to hold forth. — " He
is going to tell a ftory," faid the interpreter. The
attention of all was fixed upon him, and he pro
ceeded with a modulation of tones, a variety of ac
tion, and an energy of expreffion, that I think I
have never heard or feen excelled : his adlion indeed
was Angularly admirable ; and I could perceive that
he was occafionally fpeaking in the tones of a man
and a woman ; in which latter charadler he gave a
pidlure of whining ludicrous diftrefs, that moved the
rifible mufcles of all the company. I looked at
Haffan, and he was grinning as merrily as could any
monkey or Frank in Afia. The linguift occafio
nally interpreted what the ftory-teller w as faying ;
and

14Q A-DVENTURES IN AN
and I foon began to fufpedt that it was a ilory I
had more -than once read in the Arabian Nights,
though altered, and in fome meafure dramatized by
the fpeaker. I looked feveral times archly at Haf
fan, and he returned my glance, as much as to fay,
you fee I don't laugh at all this. At length, how
ever, the -orator came to a part where he was to
mimic a poor little hunch-back (for I now difco
vered it to be the ftory of Little Hunch-back) chok
ing with a bone : he threw up his back ; fqueezed,
till all the blood iii his body feemed colledted in his
face, his eyes rolled in their fockets, his knees
knocked, he twifted and folded his body, putting
his foxe finger and thumb into his thr-oat, and pull
ing with all his might, as if to pull fomething out:
at length he grew weaker, ftretched his arms down,
and his fingers back, like thofe of a perfon ftrang-
ling — kicked, fell, quivered, and died. It is im
poffible for any defcription to do juftice to the per-
fedlion of hisadling; and what rendered it the
more extraordinary was, that though it was a fcene
of death, and well adted death,' he continued to
render it fo ludici"&us in circumftances, as to fuf-
pend the audience between a laugh and a cry. They
did not remain long fo ; for he fuddenly bounced up,
and began the moft doleful lamentation of a woman,
and exhibited fuch a fcene of burlefque diftrefs as I
never witneffed. All burft out in torrents of laugh
ter, Haffan as -well as the reft — I alone remained
purpofely

OVERLAND JOURNEV T* INDIA. US
purpofely ferious; and the orator, accardlng to
cuftom, broke off in the middle of an interefting
fcene. " When we returned to the caravanfera, I ral
lied the Tartar on the fcore of Tiis laughter : he
growled, and faid, -'Who could avoid it ?"-^" Why
did not you laugh as you were wont?" — " Becaufe,"
faid I, " he did not adl fo comically as you." —
" No," returned he, " but becaufe Franks and mon
kies only laugh for mifchief, and where they ought
not. No, Jimmel, you will never fee me laugh at
mifchief." — " What," faid I, " not a poor man's
being choaked to death 1 " — " Nay," faid he, " I
feldoni laugh, yet I could not avoid it then." That
very hour, however, a puppet-fliow was exhibited
in the fame room, and my grave guide laughed till
the tears ran down his cheeks, and his voice funk
into a whining treble. Karaghufe was certainly ex
travagantly comical, though filthy ; and frighted
a Cadi, with a whole troop of Janiffaries, by lett
ing fly at them a fhot or two — apartepofi 
" The next day we fet oat well-mounted, and
puftied on with renovated fpirits towards Bagdad.
Haffan could no more have the affurance to cenfure
laughing ; and, as I was little difpofed to do it in
time of danger, we -were likely to agree well. In
fhort, we began to like one another's compaffly.;
¦ ' - and

Iii ,..— ADVENTURES IN AN
an4 if I brought him to be a greater laugher than
^he ufed. to be, he gave himfelf the credit of haying
made me . much more ferious than 1 had been be
fore — I profited by his inftrudtion."
" It would be idle and fruitleCs. to attempt a
regular detail of our progrefs from Moful to Bag
dad ; the fame general cautions were obferved, with
the fame occafional relaxations. Haffan ftill conti
nued to treat me with a repetition of himfelf and
his horfe'; his own feats, and his horfe's feats"; to
be filent when ill-tempered, and loquacious when
gay; to flog the attendants at the caravanferas ; or
der the beft horfes, and eat the beft vidtuals, and to
give me the beft of both : and fihally, we had our
fallings-out and fallings-in again : but I had not
the mortification of feeing any more women tied in
facks on horfe's backs, and excoriated with a ride
of fifty miles a day. ' i >
"As we rode along we overtook feveral times
ftraggljng callenders, a vkind of Mahomedan monks,
who profefs poverty and great fapdtity ; they were
dreffed all in rags, covered with filth, carried a,
gourd, by way of bottle, for water ^-I prefume
fometimes for wine too — and bore in tlieir hands
a long pole decorated with rags, and pieces of cloth
of various colours. They are fuppofed by the vul-
gas to have fupernsitural powers: but Haffan, who
feemed

OVERLAND JOURNEV TO INDTA. 145
feemed to have caught all his ideas from his betters,
expreffed no fort of opinion of them ; he falam'd
to them, and gave them money, however. It was
extraordinai-y; enough, that they were all in one
ftory i all were going on a pilgrimage to Mecca ;
or, as they call it, Hadje.
" As foon as ever we got out of their fight and
hearing, Haffan fhook his liead, and repeated
" Hadje, Hadje ! " feveral times doubtingly, and
grinning, as he was accuftomed to do when he was
difpleafed without being able to manifeft anger.
" Hadje !" he would cry, " Hadje, Hadje ! '*' I
allied hini what he meant ; and he faid, that thefe
fellovvTS were no more going to Mecca than I was.
" I have a thoufand and a thoufand times," faid
he, " met callenders on the road, and always found
them facing toward ^lecca. If I am going fouth
ward, . I always overtake them ; if northward, I
meet tiiem ; and all the time they are going
wherever their bufinefs carries them. I overtook,"
continued he, " one of them one day, and I gave
him alms and paffed him by ; he was coming, he
faid, after me, towards Mecca: but I halted on
purpofe for a-day, and he never paffed ; and a mer
chant, arriving at the fame caravanfera, informed
me, he had met the very fame fellow four leagues
farther northward; who had anfwered him. with
the fame ftory, and ftill had his face turned toward
the fouth."
H CHAPTER

146 ' ADVENTURES IN AM

CHAPTER THE SIXTH.

ARRIVAL AT BAGDAD.  WHIMSIQAL CON
DUCT OF THE GUIDE.  SHORT ACCOUNT OF
BAGDAD. — RUINS OF BABYLON.  LEAVES
BAGDAD.  ATTACKED BY ROBBERS ON
THE TIGRIS. — ARRIVAL AT BASSORA. —
ACCOUNT OF THAT CITY.  LEAVES IT,
AND ARRIVES AT BUSHEER. — MORE DIS
APPOINTMENTS,  BOMBAY.  GOA. — < GLOO
MY PRESENTIMENTS ON LEAVING GOA.  '
A STORM.— SHIPWRECK.

x\FTER paffing through an Immehfe tradl of
country, diftiiiguifhed by nothing that could ferve
even as a circumftance to mark and remember the
daily journies, but which our travellers obferved
to grow roanifeftly worfe, both in foil and climate,
as he proceeded fouthward, he came in fight of
the famous city of Bagdad, on the feventh day from
that on which #e left Moful, and on the eighteetith
from that of his departure from Aleppo ; in which
eightjeen days he had rode fourteen hundred miles,
partly through a route which no European, -^ as he
fays he has reafon to -believe, ever took before.

0:v

OVERLAND JOURNfiY TO INDIAN f+T
On entering the city, he defired his guide to
condudl him to the houfe of a merchant, to whom
he had got letters of credit and introdudlion. Ac
cordingly, after winding through feveral ftreets,
he arrived at laft at the door of an Arraenian mer
chant, or Coja, where he alighted, and was re
ceived with great politenefs ; but, on producing his
letters, he-found that this merchant was not the per
fon to whom it was diredted : the Captain accord
ingly made a fuitable apology, and was retiring to
find the houfe of the proper perfon, for which pur
pofe the Armenian offereihim a fervant, when, to
his great aftonlfhment, the Tartar interfered ; faid
that it -wfas to this merchant he brought all his
goods, and that Capt. Campbell muft remain where
he was ; at the fame time ordering the Armenian,
in a peremptory tone, to take charge of him, and
ufe him well. It was In vain that the Arineniaii
endeavoured to explain to him the nature of the
bufinefs, and that the Captain infifted he muft goto
the other merchant : Haffan was peremptory, and
declared that he fhould not. It was fo extremely
tutre and ridiculous, that no one could be angry j
and the good Armenian uniting his voice with that
of the Tartar, and entreating our traveller to fa
vour him with his company, he acqulefced, and,
indeed, remained in his houfe all the time he was
at Bagdad. This was proof pofitive, if any other
than he already had was wanting, that Haffan con-

^4$ , .^.ADVENIUEES IN AN.
^dered his eharge merely as a piece of merchaiidife,
which he was bound (according to the language
of merchants) to deliver in good . order and con
dition. " I HAD undertaken, fays Capt. Campbell,
hefore leaving Aleppo, to give the guide, if he adted
conformably to my wifhes, and beljavqd" well,
twenty pounds, pver 'and above the hund/ed pro-.
vided hy the agreement : I therefore feiit for him,
to fettle finally, and part. He had heard, that I
was a perfon diffeitent from what he had fuppofed
me to be : but, it did not alter his condudt, as might
be expedted, or make him ftoop to cringing ; he
fl:ill fpoj^e with the fame honeft, bold familiarity,
and when I gave him the promifed twenty poimds,
be never' hinted, cringed for, or_even looked as if
he expedted more: but when we came to part, the
fecUngs he difclofed, and thofe I myfelf felt, con
vinced me, that man is not naturally that brute
which, prej-udice has made him ; and^ that if left to
its own operations, -the human heart would be uni
formly kind, affedl:.Ionate, and fym pathetic: the
poor, rough, unpolifljied Turk, betrayed the
ftrongeft. marks of fenfibility, and I myfelf once,
mpre felt the uneafinefs of parting."
The name of Bagdad has been fo renowned In
eaftern flsory, and is the fcene of fo many of thofe
bewitching

OVERLAND JOURNEY tO INDIA. 14&
bewitthing' tales which ¦we find tranflated, or pre
tended- to be tranflated, fi-om the Arabic and Per^
flan, that our traveller felt great pleafure in feeing
it, and conceived himfelf to be at the Very foun
tain-head of marvellous adventure and romance.
Fraught with this idea, he was impatient to go forth
into the town ; and notwithftanding the weather
was beyond conception hot, he paraded a number
of ftreets : but never (as he tells us) did he, in the
courfe of his life, fee a place fo calculated to belye
the opinion one would form of it from the eaftern
tales'. It appeared to him to be among the mofl
difagreeable cities of the^world, and to have no one
circumftance to recommend it : the heat is fo
great, that in the fummer time the inhabitants are
forced to keep (heir markets in the night, and to
lie all night in the open air on the terraces of their
houfes. ¦
The Armenian with whom he refided, did every
thing in"^ his power to render the place agreeable
to him :' he was not only generous and polite,
but well informed, and pleafing in converfation.
The Captain took occafion to exprefs to him the
difappointment he_ felt at finding Bagdad fo very
different from yyhat he expedted; and told him
that he had, when a youth, learned to think
highly of It, or rather romantically, from reading
eaftein tales. This led to a converfation on the
H 3 Arabian

150 ADVENTURES IN AM
Arabian -Nights Entertainments, a copy of which
he had in the Arabic, _ and produced it : he then
iliewed our traveller, with great-triumph, a French
tranflation of them, printed at Paris, which he had
read, and declared that the tranflation was nothing
at all in comparifpn with the priginal,
They talked pf the eaftern tale of the Glaff
Man, who, in a reverie, increafes his ftock till he
gets fo rich as, in imagination, to marry the Cadi's
daughter, &c. &c. and in kicking his wife, kick?
all .hi? glaffes about, and deftroys the whole of hi?
yifionary fortune. Capt. Campbell praifed the hu-
piour of it much — " Sir," faid he, " there is no-
tljing in it that may not be experienced frequently
in adtual life t thofe waking dreams are the ufua}
concomitants of opium : a man who has accuftom-
' ed himfelf to the pernicious pradlice of eating opi
um, is conftandy fubjedl to them. I have,' in the
courfe of my time, foynda tljoufandof thofe dream
ers holding forth in the plenitude of imaginary
power. I have feen a common porter become Cadi,
and order the baftinado. I have feen a -^vretched tai
lor raifed by the effedls of opium to the office of
Aga of the Janiffaries, depofing the Sultan, and or
dering the bow-ftring to all about him. I have feen
fome indulging in the blandifhments of love with
princeffes, and others wallowing in the wealth of
Gofeonda. But the moft extraordinary vifionary of '
this

OVERMANS JOURNEY TO INDIA. *Jf
kind I ever met with, was one who imagined him
felf tranflated to Paradife, co-equal to Mahomet,
and fitting by the fide of that prophet, arguing with
him in defence of the ufe of wine and opium : he
argued moft ingenioufly, liftened in filence to the
fuppofed arguments of his adverfary, anfweted
them, replied, rejoined, and ftill argued on — till,
growing at laft angry, he fwore that he was as good
a prophet as him, did not care a fig for him, and
called him fool and falfe prophet. A Turk who
was prefent, in die fulnefs of his zeal, laid a ftick
very heavily acrofs his fhoulders, and put an end to
the vifion : and never did I fee a wretch fo abjedt,
fo forlorn, or fo miferably defponding; he put his
forehead to the ground, which he wet with his
tears, - crying, mercy, Mahomet! mercy, holy
Prophet! mercy. Alia! — nor could he find relief
(fuch is the ruin of opium) till he got a frefh fupply
of it in his mouth, which foon gave him a tempo
rary refpite from the horrors of his fituation."
Unquestionably, Bagdad was once a great
cityj of flouriftiing commerce ; but the Sultan A-
murath the Fourth, when he made himfelf mafler
of it, put the richeft merchants fettled there to
death ; and it has ever fince gradually declined.
About two days journey from it, lie the ruins of
the once famous city of Babylon. Our traveUer
was much difpofed to go to fee it, and thence drop
H 4 dpwn

152 ADVE;NTlfREi5-lN A'W
-down'" the Euphrates to Baffora: but his Armeniaii
hoft told hirii there was nothing in it to recompenfe
a perfon for half the trouble ; for, of that magnifi
cent city, which was fixty miles in circumference,
which wa-S encompaffed with walls eighty-feven
feet in thicknefs, and three hundred and fifty iti
heigTi't, rioting was to be feen but the bare founda
tions of fome great edifices. The tower of Belus;
and tlie palace of NebuchadnezZaT, lie with the reft
in undiftinguifhed ruin. The' greateft curiofities
now in teing are, in the firft place, the ruiHs' of
a' building faid to he the famed Tower of Babel,
which appears to have been half a league incom-
pafs ; and the rerriains of a vaft bridge oVer! the
Euphrates, whei-e it is half a league broad.
• Capt. Campbell defcribes himfelf as' not having
been more anxious to arrive at the city of Bagdad,
than -he was to leave it ; and having written letters^
and put them in a way of being forwarded to Eu
rope, he took leave of "his friendly hofpitable Arrhe-
iilan, and, -with a thoufand acknowledgments for
his kindnefs, fet out on horfeback to a place on the
Tigris, where he' embarked in a boat, in order to
proceed to Baffora. This river, known fince the
firft records of human exiftence fey geographers,
is r«»arkable ^for its rapidity, whence^ Pliny fays,
it has the name of Tigris, (in the Median lan
guage, a dart) ; and for its extraordinary courf^',
-• ' which

OVERtAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 15.')
which is in many places under ground, rifes in
Armenia, finks into the earth near Mount Taurus,
and runs un-der a mountain — then rifing on the
other fide, follows its courfe through the lake
.Thefpites — again finks frequently under ground,
and continues hid at one time for a fpace of twen
ty-five miles ; where, once more emerging, it
glides along with a very rapid ftream, meets the
Euphrates at a place called Korna, paffes through
Baffora, and falls into the Perfian Gulph.
As the boat in which he took his paflage had no
convenience for excluding the violence of the fun,
except an awning, he fuffered extremely from the
heat, The river itfelf was grand ; but the banks,
and contiguous country, contained nothing to at-
tradl notice — no objedt to diverfify the dreary de-
ferted afpedt of the fcene — nothing to afford room
for refledlion, or give birth to a new idea. The on
ly thing that ferved to keep the mind alive, was
the apprehenfion of robbers, who, in great num
bers, hover over thi^' river, and plunder paffengers.
They had taken care, on. leaving Bagdad, to be
v/ell provided with fire-arms, and they found thefe
of good fei-vice, for they were frequently attacked
by robbers with a view to plunder, but found that
a fhot or two difperfed and fent them off in, con-
fl:ernation.
, H 5 One

154 ADVENTURES IN AN
One night, however, in paffing a creek', they,
perceived feveral bpats iffuing from it, in great
order, and in a manner that evinced method and
premediation : riiey 'filently prepared for their re
ception, and Were completely ready to meet them
warmly, while the robbers thought them quite un
prepared, and uriconfcious of their approach: the
rogues firft ei^deavoured to board them by, furprife:
wifhing rather to frighten than to kill them. Capt.
Campbell and his party began by firing over their
heads ; on which they fet up the moft horrible
iliouts, and rufhed on with a tumultuous rapidity,
making the m'oft terrible noife, iii order to intimi
date them: they were by this time quite near; the
party therefore took aim at them, let fly, and im
mediately perceived them in great confufion, fome
of the boats lofing their helm, and falling with the
flream pn the pthers : at laft they Iheered pff, and
gave UP farther trpwble.
After eight pr ten difagreeable days, weaken
ed with inceffant watching, harraffed with bodily
fatigue, and melted with the exceffiv'e heat of the
fun, our traveller arrived at the city of Baffora,
where he was received with the utmoft hofpitality
by Mr. Latouche, the. Company's refident from
Bombay, who did every thing poffible for his ac
commodation, and procured him every inftruSlfon
refpedling his further progrefs. Ttus

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 155
This city, as well as Bagdad, is famous in mar
vellous ftory. The country about it is confidered
by the natives as the beft fpot in Afia, though the
burning winds annoy and frequendy deftroy tra
vellers, overwhelming them with mountains of hot
fand, driven, like waves of the fea, before the tem-
peft out of the neighbouring deferts. It carries on
a great trade, and is inhabited by vaft numbers of
Chriftians and Jews. The Englifh and Dutch have
fadtories here, as well for the purpofe of commeice,.
as the tranfit of difpatches, by way of DamafcuS
and Aleppo, to Europe. The richeft merchandife
of India and Europe, are brought here in caravans ;
and its opulence is greatly increafed by the caravans
of pilgrims, who pafs through it on their -way to
Mecca, and pay great duties, bartering for many
rich commodities. The horfes of this place are
celebrated for their fuperior excellence, and it is
faid that they will run thirty hours without mea^,
or drink.
One comfortable cjrc\jmftance attending Baffo
ra is, that at night the ftreets may be walked with
perfedt fafety at aft hours. It is fubjedt to an
Arab Prince, who is tributary to. the Turk^ and
whofe revenue is very great, as well from thq
above-mentioned caufes, as becaufe he gives full
liberty to all nations to come and ttaite to his
capital.
He From

1'56' ' ' 'ADVJENTX'RES IN' AN
From Baffora Capt. Campbell took his paffage
in a date boat going to Mufkat, expedling to get'
from thence a fpeedy paffage to Bombay ; but the
Boat fprung a leak at fea, and they were obliged to
i-uh into Bufheer, where he was very hofpitably- re
ceived and * efttertained by Mr. Galleyj the Cora-
pa'ny's refident.
" There really feemed," fays he, "to be an
unufual fatality attending me throiighout the whole
of my j'pdrrtey. In'the firft inftance, I was pre
vented, by the war with France, from going l^ the"
diredl route which I fhould otherwife ha-ve taken,
and obliged to pafs through the Low Countries arid
Germany: in the next place, at Venice Iwas dif
appointed in obtaining a paffage to Latichsea ; and-
ibmediately ori die heels of that, loft my fervant at
Trieftej'by fending- hirii'-for letters to Venice : af
terwards, when 1 had gone-to Alexandria,' with ex-
pedlation of travelling through Egypt, and viewing
that interefting part of the world, I found myfelf
prevented by the unhappy circumftances of the
cfountry — the plague raging in Alexandria,' 'and all-
the roads- being blocked up by an incurfiori ef the.
Arabs. Thus mortified and difa-ppointed, I tufned
ahout; in order to make my way hi another direc
tion ; and arriving at Cyprus, found, to my infi
nite furprife and- regret, that an 'epidemic difeafej,'
little fhort of the plague, prevailed there, and-fwept->
' ¦ ¦" - '^ *' off

OVERLAND JOURNEV t'6 INDIA. l&T
off the inhabitants in great numbers : when, after
flirmounting all thefe obftacles, I arrived at Aleppo,
. the firft information 1 got was, that the caravan was
gone, and that it would be a long time before ano
ther would be ready ; and my departure from
Aleppo was attended with circumftances no lefs
inaufpicious than my entrance. At Moful I ex
perienced another difappointment, by the river's
being dried up, and rendered impaffable by boats:
my paffage from Baffora to Mufliatj was impeded
by the veffel fjiririging a leak : and now, when at
laft I hoped to get from Bufheer to Bombay, I
was ftopped by the intelligence- that the Gulph
was blocked up by the French privateers,. Infomuch
that ho veffel could hope to efcape." <••
He was now obliged to remain at Eiiflieeri till -a
Conipany's frigate, corfirrianded -by Captain- Hardy,'
and foon expedted, 'fhorilU ::iff6rd him an opportu
nity of proceeding to Bombay. Time, however,
Broughr that period abbut, and he took his paffage',^
and arrived fafe at Bombay, where he foon aft^r
embarked on boird'a-P^rtuguefe veflel, being the
only conveyance that offered, to proceed to Madras :
flie was firft bound to' Gea, arfd arrived fafely at
that ifland, where he was received wii;h great po-
litenefe, *nd -treated with tlie moft friendly atten
tion, by Mr. Henfbaw, die Englifh- refident.
---¦ -!.i> ¦- , -> J..i- ,;..^i..3>..i.l ....... ... ..,i
- - ; GoA

156^ , A.DVtNTURES IN AN
Go A belongs to the Portuguefe, the viceroy of
which nation lives there in great pomp. It will
always be memorable as having been the fcene of
the mofl abominable cruelties, exercifed by that fla
gitious people on the natives, under a pretended
zeal for Chriftianity- , .

Capt. Campbell was impatient to get from
Goa, and yet looked foeward to his departure with
a fecret uneafinefs, for which he declares himfelf]
unable to account.: — He wifhed to proceed, and yet
fome fecret foreboding whifpered to his heart that-
he was on the verge of calamity : " fo powerful was,
it," fays he, " and fo obftinate, that I could nei
ther reafoh away its admonitions, nor refift its im-
preffions ; and fomething inceffantly told me, in as
plain language as if a human being fpoke,. that 1
fhould fuffer a dreadful misfortune. As I had all
my life heen aji enemy to fiaperftition, I felt my
fpirit infulted, and my underftanding degraded by
the involuntary vifilor.y which I allowed to this im
preffion — ^I combated it with reafon, with ridicule,
with felf-'cqntempt — all in vain : in fpite of me, I
became the very flave of gloomy prefentiment ; and
in order to get-thefuccedaneous aid of a friend's
reafon, as well as to be' prepared, I comrtiunicated
tlje ftatcof my feeUngs to Mr. Henfliaw. In vain he
endeavoured to cheer me : all he could do was tp give.
me his counfel ; in confequence of which 1 adlually fettied

OVERLAND JOURNEY to INDIA. 1.59
fettled all my affairs up to that day, made my will,
left it with Mr. Henfliaw, and, full of dreadful
forebodings of fhipwreck, ¦went on board a Portu
guefe fnow bound to Madras.
" It was now the eighteenth of May when we
failed from Goa. The hemifphere had been for
fome days overcaft with cliSuds : fome light fhowers
of rain had fallen ; and it certainly did not tend
to raife my fpirits, and free me from my ominous
apprehenfions, to hear that thofe circumftances in
dicated an approaching gale of wind. I obferved, i
moreover, that the veffel was much too deep in the
water, being greatly overloaded — that fhe was in
many refpedts defedtive, and, as the feamen fay,
ill-found, and in fliort very unfit to encounter a gale
of wind of any violence. I fcomed, however, to
yield to thofe united impreffions, and determined
to proceed.
" 0^f the nineteenth, the fky was obfcured by
immenfe fleeces of clouds, furcharged with inflam
mable matter ; and in the evening, the rain fell in
torrents, the firmament darkened apace, fudden
night came on, and the horrors of extreme darknefs
were rendered flill more horrible by the peals of
thunder which rent the air, and the frequent flaflics
of lightning, which ferved only to fhew the hor-
ro of our fituation; and leave us in increafed dark nefs :

J6(j ' 'Xd-ventures in an
nefs : mean time the' wind became more violent,
blowing on the fhore ; and a heavy fea, raifed
by its force, united with it to make our ftate more
formidable. ¦
" By day-light on the morning of the twentieth,
the gale had increafed to a furious tempeft ; and the
,fea, keeping pace with it, ran mountain high ; Slid
as it kept invariably to the fame point, the captain
and officers became ferioufly alarmed, and almoft
perfuaded that the fouth-weft monfoon had fet in,
which, if it were fo, would render it abfolutely
ifnpoffible for us to weather the coaft. All that
day, however, we kept as clofe as the violence of
tlie weather would allow us to the wind ; but the
fea canted her head fo to leeward, that/ fhe made
more lee than head-way ; and the rigging was fo
ftrained with the work, that we had little hope of
keeping off the fhoTe, unlefs the wind changeii,' of
which there was not now the fmalleft probability.
During the night there was no intermiffion of the'
ftorra ; many of the fails blew info ribbons ; fome
6f the rigging was carried awayj and fuch exer
tions were made, that, before mornings every' ftick
that could poffibly be ftruck was doiVn upon the
deck. "About feven o'Clock on the morning of the
twSnty-firft, I was alarmed by an unufual noife
upon

overland journey 'TO INDIA. 161
iipori the deck, and running up, perceived that
every remaining fail in the veffel, the fore-fail
alone excepted, was totally carried away. Th6
fight "was horrible, and the whole veffel prefented a
fpedtacle as dreadful to the feelings as mortifying td
human pride. Fear had produced, not only all the
helplefsnefs of defpondency, but all the mifch'ievous
frealcs of Infanlty. In one place ftood the captain,
raving, ftamping, and tearing his hair in handfuls
from his head — here, fome of the crew were eaft
upon their knees, clafping their hands, and pray.-
ing, with all the extravagance of horror painted in"
their faces — there, Others were flogging their
images with all their might, calling upon them td
allay the florm. One of our paffengers, who wa^
purfer of an Englifh Eaft Indiaman, had got hold
of a cafe -bottle of rum, and with an air of diftrac-
tion and deep difpair imprinted in his face, was
ftalking about in his fhirt. I perceived him to be
bri the point of ferving it about,' in large tumblers,
to the few undifmayed people ; and-well convinc
ed, that, {o far from alleviating, it woifld fliarpen
the hotrorS of their mind, I went forward, arid
with much difficulty prevented him. ¦
" Having accompliflied this point, I applied
myfelf to the captain, and endeavoured "'to bring
him back (if poffible) to his recolledtion, and to a
fenfe of what he owed to his duty as a oommand^V
" ' " and

162 adventures in an
and to his dignity as a man : I exhorted him to en^
courage thefailors by his example;' and ftrove to
raife his fpirits, by faying that the.ftorm did not
appear to me by any means fo terrible as fome I
had before experienced.
"While I was thus employed, we fhipped a
fea on the ftarboard fide, which I really thought
would have fent us down. The veffel feemed to
fink beneath its weight, fhivered, _and remained
motionlefs — it was a moment of critical fnfpence ;
fancy made me think I felt her gradually defcendT
ing — -1 gave myfelf up as gone, and fummoned all
iny fortitude to bear approaching death with be
coming manhood.
"Just at this crifis, the water, which rufhed
with incredible force through all parts of the veffel,
brought out floating, and nearly fuffocated, ano
ther Englifh paffepger, who was endeavouring to
take a little repofe in a fmall cabin boarded pff from
the deck : he was a very ftout young man, and fufl
of true fpirit. Finding that the veffel was not, as I
had thought, going immediately down, he joined
me in exhorting the captain ^to his duty: we per
fuaded -him to throw the guns overboard, as well as
a number of trunks and packages with which the
veffel was much encumbered.: and with fome lit
tle exertion, we got, the pumps fet agoing."
The

overland journey to INDIA. 163
The name of the Enghfli paffenger juft men
tioned was Hall. He was a young man of a mofi
amiable difpofition, and with it poffeffed all that
manly fpirit that gives prefence of mind in exigen
ces of danger. He and Capt. Campbell having,
with great difficulty, got fome hands to ftick to the
pumps, ftood at the wheel, at once to affift the
men, and prevent them from quitting it : and, al
though hopelefs, determined that no effort pradti-
cable on their parts fhould be wanting to the pre-
fervation of the veflel. The water, however,
gained upon the pumps, notwithftanding every ef
fort ; and it evidently appeared that they could not
keep her long above water.
At ten o'clock the wind feemed to increafe, and
amounted to a downright hurricane : the fky wai^
fo entirely obfcured with black clouds, arid the rain
fell fo thick, that objedts were not difcernible,
from the wheel to the fhip's head. Soon tlic pumps
were choaked, and could no longer be worked:
then difmay feized on all — nothing but unutterable
defpair, filent anguifli, and horror, wrought up to
frenzy, was to he feen ; not a fingle foul was capa
ble of an effort to be ufeful — all feemed more de-
¦firous tp extinguifli their calamities by eriibiaclng
death, than williog, by a painful exertion, to
avoid it. V

At

At about eleven, o'clock they could plainlydif-
tinguifh' a dreadful roaring no'ife, refembling that
of waves rolling, againft rocks ; but the darkndfs of
the day, and the accompanying rains, prevented
them from feeing any diftance; and if it -^vcre i
rock, they might be adlually. daflied to pieces on it
before they could perceive it. At twelve o'clock^
however, the weather cleared up a little, and both
the wind and the fea feemed to have' abated : the
very expanfipn of the profpexSl round the fhip was
exhilarating; and as the weather grew better, and
the fea lefs furious, the fenfes of the people re
turned, and the genei-^l flupefadlion began to de-
creafe. - • • • --  • - , -
The weather continuing to clear uj), they in
fome time difcovered breakers andlarge rocks with-
out'fide of them ; fo that it appeared they muft have
paffed quite clofe to them, and were now fairly'
hemmed in between them and the land.
• "In this very critical jundtute," fays bur tnli-
yeller, "the captain, entirely contrary to my opi
nion, adopted the dai'igerous refolution of letting go
an anchor, to bring her up with her head to the
fea: but, though no fean^an, iny Common fenfe
told me that fhe could never ri'de'it out, but muft
diredlly go down. The event nearly juftified my
judgment ; for ihe had fcarcely been at anchor be
fore

OVERLyVND JOURNEY TO.INDI.\. -.IGj
fore an enormous fea rolling over her, overwhelmed
and filled her with water, and eveiy one on board
concluded that fhe was certainly finking. On the
inftant, a Lafcar, with a prefence of mind worthy
an old Englifh mariner, took an axe, ran forward,
and cut the cable."
On finding herfelf free, the veffel again floated,
and made an effort to right herfelf; but fhe was al
moft completely water-logged, and heeled to lar
board fo much, that the gunnel lay under water.
They then endeavoured to fteer as faft as they could
for the land, which they knew could not be at any
great diftance, though they were unable to difcover
it through the hazy weather: the fore-fail was
loofened; by great efforts In bailing, fhe righted
a little, her gunnel was got above water, and they
fcudded as well as they could before the wind^
which ftill blew hard on fliore ; and about two
o'clock the land appeared at a fmall diftance a-
head. The love of Hfe countervails all other confidera-
tions in the mind of man. 'Fhe uncertainty they
were under with regard to the flioje. before them,,
which they had reafon to believe was part of Hyder
Alli's dominions, where they fl.ould meet with the
moft rigorous treatment. If not untimely death, was
forgotten in the joyful hope of faving Ufe, and they
fcudded

169 adventures in an
fcudded toward the fhore in all the exulting tranf
ports of a people juft fnatched from -the^'jaws of
death. This' gleam of happinefs, however, continued
not long: a tremendous fea rolling after them,
broke over their ftern, tore every thing before ir,
ftove in the fteerage, carried away the rudder, fhi
vered the wheiel to pieces, and tore up the very
ring-bolts of the deck — conveyed the men who
ftood at the wheel forward, and fwept thern over
board. Captain Campbell was ftanding at the time,
near the wheel, and fortunately had hold of the
taffarel, which enabled him to refift in part the
weight of the wave. He was, however, fwept off
his feet, and ^daflied againft the main-maft. The
jerk from the taffarel, which he held very tena-
• cioufly, feemed as if it would have diflocdted his
arms : it broke, however, the impetus of his motion,
and in all probabillry Taved him from being dafhed
to pieces againft the maft.
" I FLOUNDERED about," fays he, " in the
water at the foot of the maft, till at length I got
on- my feet, and feized a rope, whichl^eld in a
ftate of great embarraffment, dubious what I fliould
do to extricate myfelf. At tills inftant I perceived
that Mr. Hall had got upon the capftern, and was
waving his hand to me to follow bis example : this
I wiflied

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDI.A. 16t
I wiflied to do, though it was an enterprlfe of fome
rilk and difficulty: for, if I loft the hold 1 had, a
fingle motion of the veffel, or a full wave, would
certainly carry me overboard. I made a bold bufli,
however, and fortunately accompliflied it. Hav
ing attained this ftation, I could the better furvey
tjie wreck, and faw that the water was nearly
breaft -high on the quarter-deck (for the veffel was
deep-waifled) ; and I perceived the , ' unfortunate
Englifli purfer ftanding where the water was moft^
fhallow, as if watching with patient expedlation Its
rifing, and awaiting death : I called to him to come
to us, but he fliook his head In defpair, and faid, in
a lamentable tone, " It is all over with us ! God
have mercy upon us ! " — then feated himfelf with
feeming compofure on a chair which happened to
be rolling about in the wreck of the deck, and in a
few minutes afterwards was -wafhed into the fea
along -wifh it, where he was fpeedily releafed from
a. ftate ten thoufand times worfe than death.
" During this univerfal wreck of things, the
horror I was In could not prevent me from obferv
ing a very curious circumftance, which at any other
time would have excited laughter, though now it
produced no other emotion than furprife. We hap
pened to be in part laden with mangoes, of which
the ifland of Goa is kno-wn to produce the fineft in
the world, fome of them lay in balkets on the poop :
a litde

X68 ^PVENT.URES IN AN
a litde black, boy, in the mqnient^of greateft danger,
had got feated by them, devouring tlierp voraci-
oufly, and crying all the time moft bitterly at the
horrors of his fituation ! ,

i

" The veffel now got, completely water-logged ;
and Mr. Hall and I wei;e employed in forming con-
j.edtural calculations how many minutes flie could
keep above water, and confoling. one anotiier on the
unfortunate circumftances .under . which we met — f
tamenting that fate had tims^.brought us acquainted
only to make us witneffes of each, other's mifery,
and .then to fee one another, no rriore.
1.. - ¦ 01 'V.:. - ¦ ¦ -
" A-s the larboard fide of the veffel -was gradually
going down, the deck, and q{ courfe the capftern,
became too nearly perpendicular for us ,to„continue
on it: we therefore .forefaw the, neceffity ;^of quit
ting it, and got upon the lljarbpard fide, holding
faft by the gunnel, and allowing , our, .bodies, and
legs to yield to the fea as it broke over us. Thus
•we cpntinued. for fome jtime : at length the feverity
of the labour fp. entirely exhaufted our ftrength and
fpirits,. th.a$, our beft hope feemed to be a fpeedy
conclufion to,, our, paliiful death ; and we began
to have .ferious .jntentipns pf letting go our hold,
and yielding ourfelves up at once to the fury of the
WaV£S. , : , .
^'"The

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 169'
" The veffel, which all this time drifted witlj
the fea and wind, gradually approximated the fhore,
and at length ftruck the ground, which for an in
ftant revived our almoft* departed hopes ; but wc
foon found that it did not in the fmalleft degree
better our fituation. Again I began to yield to
utter difpair — again I thought of letting go my
hold, and finking at once : it is impoffible, thought
I, ever to efcape— why, then, prolong, for a few
minutes, a painful exiftence that muft at laft be
given up ? Yet, yet, the all-fubduing love of life
fuggefted, that many things apparently impoffible
had come to pafs ; and I faid to myfelf. If life is
to be loft, why not lofe it in a glorious fhuggle?
Should I furvive it by accident, life will be ren
dered doubly fweet to me, and I ftill more worthy
of it by perfevering fortitude.
"While I was employed in this train of re
fledlion, I perceived fome of the people colledling
together, talking, and holding a confultation : it
immediately occurred to me, that they were de-
vifing fome plan for efcaping from the wreck, and
getting on fhore : and, fo natural is It for man to
cling to his fellow creature for fupport in difficult or
dangerous exigences, that I propofed to Mr. Hall to
join them, and take a fhare in the execution of the
planr— obferving to him at the fame time, that I
was determined at all events to quit the veffel, and
I truft

ITO ADVENTURES, :IN AN
fruft to the-protedtion and guidance of a fuperin--
tending P;:ovidence for the reft.
*' As prodigality of life, is, in fome cafes, the.
excefs. of virtue and courage — fo there are others in
which it is vice, meannefs and cowardice. True
courage is, according to the circumftances under
which it is to operate, as rigidly tenacious and vigi
lant of life in one cafe, as it -is indifferent and re-
gardlefs in another ; and I think it is a very ftrange
eontradidtion in the human heart (although it often
happens), that a man who has the moft unbounded
couragCj feeking death even in the canon^ mouth,
fhall yet want the neceffary refolution to make
exertions to fave his life in cafes of ordinary dan
ger. The unfortunate Englifh purfer could not
colledl courage fufficient to make, an effort to fave
himfelf; and yet I think it probable that he would
have faced a battery of artillery, or expofed him
felf to a piftol fliot, if occafion required, as fqon
as any other man. Thus, it appears at firft view:
but riiay not this feeming incongruity be explained
by faying, that perfonal . courage and fortitude are
different qualities of the mind and body, and depend
upon the exercife of entirely different fundtioris ?
" Be that as it may, I argued with myfelf, in
the height of my calamitous fituation, upori;the
fubje(3 of fortitude and dejedtion, courage and
cowardice ;

OVERLAND JOURNEY- TO INDIA. 171
cowardice ; and, notwithftanding the ferious afpedi '
of affairs, found myfelf liftening to the fuggeftioiis
of pride : what a paltry thing to yield, while
ftrength is left to ftruggle ! Vanity herfelf had her
hint, and whifpered, " Should I efcape by an effort
of my own, what a glorious theme of exultation ! "
There were, I confefs, tranfitory images in my
mind, which, co-operating with the natural attach
ment to felf-prefervation, made me perfevere, and
refolve to do fo, while one veftige of hope was left
for the mind to dwell on.
" Observing, as I faid before, the people
confulting together, and refolving to join thein, I
' made an effort to get to the lee fhrouds, where they
were ftanding, or rather clinging;' but before I
could accomplifli it, I loft my hold, fell down the
hatchway (the gratings having been carried aWay
with tlxe long-boat), and was for fome minutes en
tangled there among a heap of packages, which
the violent fludtuations of the watter had colle<9:ed
on the lee fide. As the veffel moved with the fea,
and the water flowed in, the packages and I were'
rolled together — fometimes one, fometimes ano
ther upperiBoft; fo that I began to be apprehen-
five I fliould not be able to extricate myfelf : by the
niereft accident, however, I grafped fomething
that lay in my, way,, made a vigorous fpring, and
gained the lee flirouds. Mr. Hall, 'Who' followed
I 2 jne,

172 ADVENTURES IN AN
ine, in feizing the fhrouds, was driven againft me
with fuch violence, that I could fcarcely retain my
hold of the rigging.
" Compelled by the perilous fituation in
which I ftood, I called out to him for God's fake to
keep off, for that I was rendered quite breathlefs
and worn out : he generoufly endeavoured to make
way fornne, and, in fo doing, unfortunately loft his
hold, and went down under the fhip's fide. Never,
never Jhall I forget my fenfations at this melancho
ly incident — I would have given millions of worlds
that could have recalled the words which made him
move ; my mind was wound up to the laft pitch of
anguifh: I may truly fay, that this was the moft
bitter of all the bitter moments of my life, com
pared with which the other .circumftances of the
fliipwreck feemed leffened — for I had infenfibly
acquired an unufual efteem and warm attachment
for him, and was doubtful whether, after lieing
even the innocent occafion of his falling, I ought
to take further pains to preferve my own life. All
thofe fenfations were paffing with the rapidity of
lightning through my thoughts, ¦when, as much to
my aftonifhment as to my joy, I faw him borne
by a returning wave, and thrown among the very
packages frpm which I had but juft before, with
1 uch labour and difficulty, extricated myfelf. In
the end he proved -equally fortunate, but, after a
much .

• OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 173
much longer and harder ftruggle, and after fuftain-
jng much hiore injury.
" I once more changed my ftation, and made
ray way to the poop, where I found myfelf rather
more flieltered — I earneftly wifhed Mr. Hall to be
with me, whatever might be my ultimate fate —
and beckoned him to come near me ; but he Only
anfwered by fhaking his head, in a feeble, de-
fpoftding manner — flaring at the fame time wildly
about him : even his fpirit was fubdued ; arid
defpair, I perceived, had begun to take poffeffion
of his mind.
*• Being a little more at cafe in my new ftation
than I had been before, I had more time to dehbe-
rate, and more power to judge. I recolledled,
that, according to the courfe of time, the day was
far gone, and the night quickly approaching: I
refledled, that for any enterprife whatfoever, day
was much preferable to night; and above all I
confidered, that the veffel could not hold long to.
gether — I therefore thought, that the beft mode I
could adopt would be, to take to the water with the
firft buoyant thing I could fee ; and, as the wind
and water both feemed to run to the fhore, to
take my chance in that way of reaching it. Ia
purfuance of this refolution, I tore off my fhirt,
having before that thrown off the odier parts of my
I 3 drefs—

n-* , ADVENTURES IN AW
drefs — I looked at my fleeve buttons, in which 'was
fet the hair of my departed children — and, by an
involuntary &&. of the imagination, afked myfelf
the queftion, "Shall I be happy eaOugh to meet
^^em where I am now about to go? — 'Shall. thofe
dear laft remains, too, become a prey tp the de
vouring deep,?": — In that -infl:ant, reafon, fuf
pended -by. the ho'rrors of .the fcene, gave way to in-
ftlndl : and I, rolled' my fhirt up, and v«ry icarefuUy
thruft it into a hole between decks, with the wild
hopeS; that thp fleeve-buttjons- might yet efcape-.un-
^uched. - 'Watching my opportunity, I faw a log
of wood floating near the veffel, and, waving my
hand to Mr. Hall as a laft adieu, jumped after it.
Here, ^ain, I was dopmed to aggravated liard-
fliips — I had fcarcely touched the log ,when a great
fea fnat-ched it from my hokl : ftill as it came near
jne, I grafped at it ineffedtually, till at laff it was
completely carried away, but not before it -had cut
and 'battered, and /bruifed roe in feveral places, and
in a manner that at any other time I fhorild have
riiought dreadful.
" Death feemed inevitable; and all- that oc-
'OUried to me now to do, 'was to accelerate it, and get
out pf its pai^gs as fpeedily as poffible ; fpr,, though
1 knew hpw tP fwini, tfce tremendous furf rendered
fwimming ufelefs, and all hope from it would have
-.been ridiculous. J itherefpre began tP fwaUbw as
much'

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 175
much water as poffible; yet, flill rifing by ths
buoyant principle of the waves to the furface, my
former thoughts began to recur; and whether it
was that, or natural inftiudl, which furvived the
temporary impreffions of defpair, I know not ; 'but
I endeavoured to fwim, which I had not done long,
when I again difcovered the log of wood I had loft
floating near me, and with fome difficulty caught
it: hardly had it been an inftant in my hands,
when, by the fame unlucky means I loft it again. 'I
had often heard it faid in Scotland, that if a man
^ill throw himfelf flat on his, back in the water,
lie quite ftraight and ftiff, and fuffer himfelf to fink
till the water gets into his ears, he will continue
to float fo for ever : this occurred to me now, and
I determined to try the experiment ; fo I threw
myfelf on my back in the manner I have defcribed,
and left myfelf to the difpofal of Providence ; nor
was it long before I found the truth of the faying
• — for I floated with hirdly^aa effort, and began for
the firft time to conceive fomething like hopes of
prefervation. "After lying in this manner, committed to
the difcretion of the tides, 1 foon faw the veffel —
faw that it was at a confiderable diftance behind me.
Livelieft hope began to play about my heart, and
joy fluttered with a thoufand gay fancies in my
mind : I began to form the favourable conclufipn,
1 4 that

176 ADVENTURES IN AW
that the tide was carrying me rapidly to land from
the veffel, and that I fhould foon once more touch
terfa firma.
"This expedtation was a cordial that revived
my exhaufted fpirits : I took courage, and left my
felf ftill to the famfe all-diredling Power that had
hitherto preferved me, fcarcely doubting that I
fhould foon reach the land. Nor was I miftaken ;
for, in a, fhort time more, without effort or exer
tion, and without once turning from off my back, I
found myfelf ftrike againft the fandy beach. Over
joyed to the higheft pitch of tranfport at my pro
vidential deliverance, I made a convulfive fpring,
and ran up a littie diftance on the fhore; but was
fo w'eak and worn down by .fatigue, and fo unable
to clear my ftpmach of the fait water with which
it was Ipaded, that It fuddenly grew deadly fick,
and apprehended thalP I had only exchanged one
death for another ; and in a minute or two fainted
away." . t

CHAPTER

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 177

CHAPTER THE SEVENTH,

capt. CAMPBELL IS MADE PRISONER BY
SOME OF HYDER ALLl's TROJPS.  HUMAN
ITY OF A LASCAR  HARDSHIPS. — =MEETS
JIR. HALL.' — SENT UNDER A GUARD UP THE
COUNTRY.  ARRIVES AT HYDERNAGUR — •
IS BROUGHT BEFORE THE JEMADAR, ANO
COMMITTED TO PRISON.

VV HEN Capt. Campbell recovered from the
fwoon into which he had faflen, he found myfelf
furrounded by a guard of armed foldiers, fepoys
and pike-men. He immediately knew them to be
the troops of Hyder AUi, and almoft wifhed him
felf back into the waves again. Looking round,
he faw that the people and effedls which had been
faved from the wreck were colledled all together
along with him.
In this ftate tliey remained till it was dark. A
Lafcar belonging to the veffel, perceiving that our
traveller's ftate of nakednefs gave him great con
cern, tore into two a piece of cloth which he had
tied round his waift, and gi^ve him one part of it»
1 3 which

.17:8 •'•-•-' ¦ aWventures in an
which afforded a fhort apron. This fimple adl of
a poor uninformed black man, whom Chriftian
charity would call an idolater, Capt. Campbell-
tonfiders-as having -had more of tlie true and effen-
tial fpirit of charity in it, than half the oftenta-
tious parading newfpaper public charities- of Lon-
>don — the flough of purfe -proud vanity, and un-
-wieldly bloated wealth. " Of all the adts of bene-
'ficence,*' fays he,\" that I ever met with, it ftruck
me the moll forcibly : it had kindnefs, difinter-
¦eftednefs, and delicacy for its bafis ; and I have ne
ver fince thought of it without wifhing- that I cpuld
meet the man, to reward him for his beneficence
with a fubfiftence for life. Tlie lower Order of
people of a certain country, I know, would chink
a man in fuch circumftances as I was then in, a
fitter objl;6t of pleafantry than pity.
The 'vaft quantity of fait water he 'had fwal
lowed 'ftill made him deadly fick in his ftomach :
-afi:erfome time, -howeW, he threw- it up, and got
-great i"eiief. He had hardly felt the comforta-ble
effedls of this, before he was ordered -to- march :
nine of them, all Lafcars except himfelf, ,were
conveyfed'to a village at a few miles diftance bri the
fea-fide, where they' were for the' night put into- a
fquare plaee, walled round, open "to the inclemency
•of ftie weather "aboVe and below, 'and fiHed with
large logs €*f woods ; ithlew moft viplentiy,-£mdTain ¦ • fell

fell in torrents — while not one fmooth plank could
be found on which to ftretch their harraffed and
wafted bodies. Thus, naked, fick, exhaufted with
fatigue and fafting, drenched with wet, and unable
to lie down, their mifery might be fuppofed to be
incapable of increafe. But, alas ! where are the
bounds which can be fet to human wOe ? — ^Thirft,
that moft dreadful of pains, occafioned by the
drenching with fait water, feized them ; they begg-.
ed, intreated, clamoured for water ; but the inhu
man wretches, deaf to the groans and fcreams of
their fellow creatures (for fome grew delirious with
-the agony of thirft), refufed them even the cheap
and miferable indulgence of a drop of water !
A NIGHT of more exquifite horror than this was,
cannot be imagined. The thought of being a pri
foner to Hyder AUi was, of itfelf, fufficient to
render our traveller completely unhappy,: but his
.utter want of clothes almoft put him befide him
felf; and lying expofed to the open air, where he
was glad to fit clofe to the Lafcars to receive a little
heat from their bodies, and to hold open his mouth
in order to catch a drop of the defcending rain,
was a ftate that might be confidered as the higheft
refinement upon mifery.
About four o'clock in the morning, a littie cold
rice was hrought them to eat, and Water was dug
out of a hole near the fpot for them'; but, as all
1 6 things

180 ADVENTURES IN AM
things in this life are good or bad merely relatively,
this wretched fare was fome refrefhment to them.
The Captain was then removed to the ruins of a
toddy-hut, feparated from the reft, and a guard fet
over him. Here he had full room for refledlion.
The whole of his fituation .appeared before him
with all its aggravating circumftances of horror, and
it feemed hardly poffible to fill the bitter cup of
calamity fuller ; for there was no probability of
his being ever releafed, as his captivity was unlike-
Jy to be known to his country, or by his friends.
In this ftate he was, when, to his utter aftonifh
ment, and to his no lefs joy, the amiable compa
nion of his fhipwreck, Mr. Hall, appeared befpre
him. He fcarcely knew how to think this ap
pearance reality, as he underftood that the Lafcars
then along with him were all that were faved from
the wreck; and Mr Hall was, at the time he
parted from him, fo exhaufted both in body and
wind, that to every appearance he would be the laft
who could efifSpe. Mr. Hall, however, ftiook
him by the hand ; and, fittmg down, told our trar
Teller thaf he had given him up for loft, and re
mained with the veffel until the tide, having ebbed,
left her almoft dry — that, immedately on getting
afbore, and being taken prifoner, he made enquiries
abo'ut him, and beard that he had been faved— ^that,
finding tui$> his joy was fuch as to make him. al
moft

moft forget his own misfortunes — and, exerting all
his entreaties not to be feparated from his friend,
they had been fo far indulgent to him, and had
brought him there, that they might be companions
in bondage. He added, that out of eleven Europe
ans and fifty-fix Lafcars who were on board, only
he and Capt. Campbell, of the former, and fourteen
of the latter, were faved from the wreck,- the reft
having been drowned in the attempt, excepting
fome who, overcome with terror, anguifh and
anxiety, and exhaufted with fatigue, had bid a for
mal adieu to their companions, let go- their hold,
and calmly and voluntarily given themfelves up to
the deep.
Capt. Campbell, perceiving that Mr. Hall
ftood as much in need of relief as he did himfelf
when the Lafcar relieved him by dividing his cloth,
took it off, tore it in two, and gave him half of it :
their mifery may be- well conceived from this, if
other circumftances were wanting, that fuch a
thii^ as a rag of hnen, not worth fix- pence, was a
very material accommodation to them both.
His joy at efcaping fhipwreck pur traveller de
fcribes as by no means fo great as the agony his
mind underwent at the profpedt now before him.
He, who had been already, fome years in India,
and had opportunities of hearing, as well frpmhjs father

ass .AD'VEWT.UIttES -m AN
father as from other officers in the fervice, what the
difpofition of the tyrant, in whofe power he had now
fallen was, knew too well theJibrrors of his fitua
tion to feel any thing like hope. The unmerciful
-difpofition of Hyder, and all thofe in authority un
der him, and thexruel policy of the^eaftern chiefs,
making the life of any one, particularly a Britifli
prifoner, at the beft a precarious tenure, he did not
know the .moment, when death might be inflldled
.upon him with perhaps a thoufand aggravating cir-
¦cumflances ; and at all events, the affairs which-
. demanded his prefence in India fo very importu
nately as to urge him to all the fatigues and hard-
fhips of a paffage overland, were, of themfelves,'
fufficient to make his mind uneafy ; but the- abjedt
ft-ate, of want and nakednefs in which it feemed he
was 'likely to remain, ffruck a deep and damp hor
ror to his Jieart, and almoft unmanned him;
"Mr. -Hall and f," 'fays he, "-endeavoured
-with all our might to ftem the headlong -tOrrent of
¦our fate — melancholy preyed deeply and openly
upon hiriii while I concealed mine, and endea
voured to cheer the finking fpirits of that noble
"youth, who, I perceived, was -the prey rather of
extreme fenfibility than feeblenefs of mind. A'H
¦ihe, horrors of fhivering nakednefs, though, tp a
mind delicaie ;like 'his, and a perfpn reared in the
lap pf'luxuryi -fufficiently goading, appeared as no-
¦- ¦ thing

' OVERIANID J-OUIDNEV TOINDIA. itB
riling when compared with one lofs he had fuftained
in the depredations with which fliipwreck is con-
ilantly ftiUowed up. In the horrid fufpenfe between
life and death, which I have already defcribed, pre
vious to .my getting on fhore, this amiable young
man had fecured and treafured next his heart, as the
infeparable companion of his fate, a miniature por-
-trait of a young lady : it hung round his neck,
and was, by .the unfeeling villains who feized him
on his landing, taken away. This cruel depriva-
¦tlon was an inceffant corrofive to his mind— --the
copious fource of anguifli to his heart — ^the hourly
theme of the moft pathetic, afflidting exclamations.
" Had I," he would cry, "oh ! had I but had the
good fortune to have gone to the bottom while
yet it hung about my neck, I fhoyld have been
,'happy : but now, fepaxated from the heavenly ori
ginal, and bereft of the precious imagei: what is
life ? What would be life were I yet fure of it ?
What pleafure, what common content, has t-he
world left fijr me ¦? None^-oh ! none, none ! ne
ver ihall this 'heart again know comfort ! "
"I DID every thing I could to confole him,
and, as far as 1 could, to prevent him from dwel
ling on thofe -gloomy fubjedls. Our converfations
were interefting and pathetic ;¦ but, alas-! the pic
ture, at eveiy -pa-ufe, - chafed away the flight im-
. fresffiOns of the 'preceding'oonverfe :¦ no lufferings of
the

18+ ADVENTURES IN AH
the body could countervail that lofs — no confola
tion mitigate it ; and amidft the horrid refledtions
which unparallelled calamity impofed upon his
mind, the lofs of that one dear relic rofe paramount
to all — and as every thought began, fo it ended, with
the pidlure."
For fome days they lay in this place, expofed to
the weather, without even the flender comfort of a
little ftraw to cover the ground beneath them ;
their food, boiled rice, ferved very fparingly twice
a-day by an old woman, who juft threw a handfid
or more of it to each upon a very dirty board,
vf^SjSTthey devoured with thofe fpopos which Na
ture gave them.
At the end of that time, they, and, alpng with
theni, the Lafcars, were prdered to proceed into
the country, and. driven on foot to a confiderable
diftance, in order to render up an account of them
felves to perfons belonging to government, autho
rifed to take it. It was, advanced in the morning
when they moved, without receiving any fort of
fuftenance and were marched iq that wafting- cli
mate eight hours, without breaking their faft; dur
ing which time they were expofed alternately to
the fcorching heat of the fun and heavy torrents of
rair^i which raifed painful blifters on their {kin:
; they had pften to ftand expofed to the weather, pr to

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDlAi 185
to lie down, under the preffure of fatigue and
weaknefs, on the bare ground ; then wait an hour,
or more, at the door of fome infolent, unfeehng,
monfter, until he finiflied his dinner, or took his
afternoon's nap ; and when this was over, driven
forward with wanton barbarity by the people who
attended them.
Two days after this, they were moved again,
and marched up the country by a long and cir
cuitous route, in which they underwent every
hardfhip that cruelty could inflidt, or human forti
tude endure — now bliftered with the heat, now
drenched with the rain, and now 'chilled with the
night damps — deftitute of any place but the bare
earth to reft or lay their heads on, with only a fcan-
ty pittance of boiled rice for their fuppol't — often
without water to quench their thirft, and conftantly
goaded by the guards, who pricked them with their
bayonets eVery now and then, at once to evince
their power, entertain the fpedtators, and mortify
their prifoners. At length they arrived at Hyder
nagur, the metropolis of the province of Bidda-
nore — a fort of confiderable ftrength, mountipg
Vpwards of feventy guns, containing a large garri
fon of men, and poffeffed of immenfe wealth.
It was about two o'clodk in the morning when
they arrived at Biddanore : the day was extrerael|t" hot,

hot, and they were kept out under the full heat oJ
that rbroiU-ng fun till fix o'clock in. tl»e e-veriing',
before they were adraitted to an audience of 'the je
madar, ' or governor of the place, without having :
mouthful of vidtuals offered to them after the fa
tiguing march of the morning.
While they ftood in this forlorn ftate, avail
concourfe of people colledted about, and viewef
them with curiofity. Lopking round through thoft
who ftood neareft, Capt. Campbell fays, he obferves
fome men gazing at him with ftrong marks of emo^
tion, and a mixture of wonder and concern pour>
trayed in their countenances. Surprifedto fee,- fuel
:^mptoms of humanity in a Myforean Indian, h(
looked at . theii;i with mere fcrutinizing atten
tion, and thought that ,tlieir faces were familiar t(
Jbim. Catching his eye, tiiey looked .at him figrii
.iicantly, as though they would exprefc their regari
and refpedi for him, if they dared ; and then he be
^an to. recoHefl; that diey were formerly privates ii
his Qwn regiment of cav3lry, and were then prifon
.ers at large with Hyder.
_He was not -lefs furprifed that thofe poor fellow
fhoul^. recognifehim in his prefent miferable. falle)
ftate, than affedted at the fympathetic feeling the;
difelpfed. (He returned their look with a privat
^od of .recognition ; but;, .feeiflg that diey wer
i . . afrai'

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 187
afraid to fpeak to him," and fearing he might injure
them by difclofing their acquaintance, he forebore
any thing more.
Had Mr. Hall and his fellow captive been made
prifoners of war in battle againft an enemy, there
is no law of nature or nations, no rule of reafon or
principle of equity, that could palliate fuch treat
ment as that which they now received: but, eaft
by misfortune and fliipwreck on their fliore, they
were entitled to folr.ce and protection. The worft
wretches who hang out falfe beacons on the wef-
rern coafts of England, to allure fhlps to their de-
ftrudtion, would not be cruel without temptation :
and, if they did not expedl to gain fome profit by
it, would rather decline knocking -their fellow ¦
creatures in the head : but tiiefe barbarians, with-
put any profit but what a malignant heart derives
from the miferies of others, or any pleafure but
what proceeds from their pain, exercifed upon
them the moft wanton cruelty. Compared wiflj
fuch treatment, inftant death would have been an
act of mercy to them ; and they would have had
reafon to blefs the hand that inflidted it.
Mortifications of one fort or other— the in
ceffant torturing of the mind on the rack of fuf
penfe — the injuries to the animal fyftem occafioned
hy conftant expofure to the- weather, and the want of

188 ADVENTURES IN AN ,.
of food — all confpired to reduce our traveller, as ha
tells us, to the dimenfions and feeblenefs of a fkele-
-ton. He had grown daily weaker and weaken, and
was now nearly. exhaufted, and quite faint ; while,
lon the other hand, his amiable companion in afflil:-
tion was reduced by a-dyfentery, which attacked
Jtim foon after their fliipwreck, and which the tor
ments of his mind, the want of medicine and com
fortable food, and, above all, the alternate violent
changes from profufe prefpi ration in walking to
chilling cold at night, had increafed to fuch an
alarming degree, that he was obliged to be carried
the two laft days journey. In this ftate, they ap
peared to each other as two fpedlres hanging over
the brink of the grave : and in truth, perceiving the
rapid progrefs Mr. Hall was making to his diffolu-
tion, the Captain was affedted to a degree, that,
while it really exafperated his own worn-down
ftate, deprived him of all attention to the rapid de
cline he was falling into, ai.d almoft entirely en-
groffed his care. " In my progrefs through life,"
fays he, " I have had occafion to try feveral men,
and have found among them many who were every
thing that a good heart could wifh to find : but this
young gentleman had at once fo much fuavity and
fpirit — ;fuch gentlenefs and fortitude — his fufleritigs
(thofe of his mind, as well as thofe of his body)
were fo exquifite, and he bore them with fuch
mceknefs, tempered by fuch uninterrupted gpod
humour,

OVERLAND JOURNEV TO fNDIA, I9t
humour, and concealed and managed with fo mucli
delicacy, that I do not tranfgrefs the bounds of
truth, when 1 fay I never met one who fo entirely
interefted my feelings, and attached my friendfliip
fo unalterably,., upon principles of inftindtive im
pulfe, as well as reafon. Impelled by the irrefif-
tlble claims he had upon my approbation and ef
teem, I entered with, all the warmth of a brother
into his fufferings, and can affert with truth that
they conftituted the fevereft trials I underwent du
ring my whole imprifonment."
While they ftood In the court, vs'aiting to be
brought before the jemadar, they prefented a fpec-
tacle that would have wrung pity, one would think,
from the heart of a tiger, if a tiger was endued with
refledlion. At length they were fummoned to ap
pear before him, and brought into his prefence,
Capt. Campbell had made up his mind for the oc
cafion, determined to deport himfelf in a manly,
candid manner, and to let nO confideration what
ever lead him to any thing difgraceful to his cha
radter, or unworthy his fituation in life; and,
finally, had prepared himfelf to meet, without
fhrinking, whatever misfortune might yet be in
ftore for him, or whatever cruelties the. barbarous
difpofition or wicked policy of the tyrant might
think proper to inflidt.

On

192 ADVENTURES IN AS
and fury — to every thing that an eaftern imagina--.
tion could fuggeft as a figure prpper tP exemplify
grandeur and irrefiflible power. He then vaunted
of his fovereigh's fucceffes over the Englifh, fome
of which the Captain had not heard of before, and
did not believe ; and concluded, by declaring, that
it was Hyder's determhiation to drive all Europeans
from Indoftan, which he averred he c6uld not fait
to do, confidering the weaknefs of the one, and
boundlefs power of the other. This part of Hyat
Sahib's difcourfe is well worth the reader's, re^
mernbering, as it will ferve to make a very divert
ing contraft with his fubfequent condudt.
After having expended near half an hour in
this manner, he called upon Capt. Campbell to
come over near him, and caufed him to feat him
felf upon a mat with a pillow, to lean upon — en
couraged liiin, by every means he could, to fpeak
to him without the feaft referve — exhorted him to
tell him the truth in every thing they fpoke of —
and hinted that his falling Into his hands might
turn out the moft fprtunate event of his life.
Our traveller was at a Ipfs to what mptive to at
tribute all thefe fingular marks of indulgence ; but
found that Hyat had learned whofe fon he was (and
knew his father by reputation), from the Seapoys,
who wore now prifoners at large there : and as rank and

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDtA. 193
and office are the chief recommendation in the eaft,
the fagacious Hyat Sahib found many claims to
efteem and humanity in him as the fon of a Colo
nel Campbell, which he never would have found
in "him, had he been the fon of a farmer or tradef-
man in England.
After a full hour's audience, in which Hyat
Sahib treated the Captain with diftlngulfhcd marks
of favour confidering his fituation, he difmiffed
him with the ceremony of bectie-nut, rofe-water,
and other compliments, which are In that country
held as the ftrongeft marks of politenefs, refpedt,
and good-will.
Leaving the court, he was led to the inner fort
or citadel : and the officious zeal of thofe about
him, unwifling to let him remain ignorant of that
ivhich they conceived to be a moft fortunate turn in
his affairs, gave the coup de grace to his miferies as
he went along, by congratulating him on the fa
vourable opinion wdilch the jemadar had formed of
him, and intimating at the fame time that he would
foon be honoured with a refpedtable command in
Hyder's fervice.
" If I was miferable before," fays Capt. Camp-.
bell, " this intimation entirely deftroyed the laft
remnant of peace or hope. I was determined to
K die

192 ADVENTURES IN AN
and fury — ^tp every thing that an eaftern imagina--
tipn cpuld fuggeft as a figure proper tP exemplify
grandeur and irrefiftible power. He then vaunted
of his fovereigh's fucceffes over the Englifh, fome
of which the Captain had not heard of before, and
did not believe; and concluded by declaring, that
it was Hyder's determination to drive all Europeans
from Indoftan, which he averred he c6uld not fail
to dp, cpnfidering the weaknefs pf the one, and
bpundlefs power of the other. This part of Hyat
Sahib's difcourfe is well worth the reader's re-
membering, as it will ferve to make a very divert
ing contraft with his fubfequent condudt.
After having expended near half an hour in
this manner, he called upon Capt. Campbell tp
come over near him, and caufed him to feat him
felf upon a mat with a pillow. to lean upon — en
couraged hirn, by every means he could, to fpeak
to him without the feaft referve — exhorted him to
tell him the truth in every thing they fpoke of—
and hinted that his falling into his hands might
turn out the moft fprtunate event of his life.
Our traveller was at a Ipfs to what mPtive tP at
tribute all thefe fingular marks of indulgence ; but
found that Hyat had learned whofe fon he was (and
kneyv his father by reputation), from the Seapoys,
who were now prifoners at large there; and as rank and

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 195
and office are the chief recommendation in the eaft,
the fagacious Hyat Sahib found many claims to
efteem and humanity in him as the fon of a Colo
nel Campbell, which he never would have found
in him, had he been the fon of a farmer or tradef-
man in England. ,^ ,
After a fufl hour's audience,- in which Hyat
Sahib treated the Captain with diftlngulfhed marks
of favour confidering his fituation, he difmiffed
him with the ceremony of beetle-nut, rofe-water,
and other compliments, which are in that country
held as the ftrongeft marks of politenefs, refpedJ,
and good-will.
Leavi-ng the court, he was led to the inner fort
or citadel: and the officious zeal of thofe about
him, unwilling to let him remain ignorant of that
which they conceived to be a moft fortunate turn in
his affairs, gave the couji de grace to his miferies as
he went along, by congratulating, him on the fa
vourable opinion which the jemadar had formed of
him, and intimating at the fame time that he would
foon be honoured with a refpedtable command in
Hyder's fervice.
" If I was miferable before," fays Capt. Camp-,
bell, " this intimatipn entirely deftrpyed the laft
remnant pf peace pr hppe. I was determin<"d to
K dic

19* ADVENTURES IN AW
die a thoufand deaths fooner than ferve any ftate
hoftile to Great Britain — but ftill more a tyrant,
whofe country, nature, and principles I detefted,
and could never think of without the greateft hor^
ror ; and I judgdd, that if fuch an offer fliould be
made, and I refufed it, my life would fall a facrifice
to their rage and difappointment, or at leaft I
fhould live a life of imprifonment, and never more
behold country, family, friends, connedtions, or
any thing that I valued in life."
That night the jemadar fent him an excellent
fupper, of not lefs than fix dlfhes, from his own
table ; but, although he had been fo long famifh-
ing with the want of wholefome food, the idea of
being enlifted in the fervice of Hyder ftruck him
with fuch horror, that he loft all appetite, and was
fcarcely able to eat a mouthful. Mr. Hall and he,
however, we're feparated from the Lafcars, who
were releafed, and forced to work. ,
¦ Notwithstanding, however, the favourable
Intentions manifefted towards Capt. CampbeU by
the jemadar, as already mentioned, no mark of it
whatfoever appeared in his lodging. ITiis confifted
of a very fmall place, in the zig-zag of one of the
gates of the citadel : it was open in front, but co-
-yered with a kind of a fhed on the top ; and a num
ber of other prifoners were about them. Mr.
Hall

• VERLAND JOURNE^r TO INDIA. 195
Hall and he were each allowed a mat and pillow,
and this fonned*the whole of their local accommo
dations. Upon their remarking it, they were told,
that in conformity to the cuftom of the country,
they muft be treated fo for fome time, but- that their
accommodations would afterwards be extended,
and made more agreeable to their wifhes : yet even
this was better than their fituation fince they
landed. In addition to this luxury, they were allowed to
the value of four-pence half-penny a day for their
maintenance ; and a guard of Sepoys was put over
them and a few more prifoners, one of whom was
diredted to go and purchafe their vidtuals, and do
fuch kind of offices for them.
This guard was changed every week— a flrong
mark of the fufplcious and wary tempers of thofe
people, who could fear intrigues and cabals between
Wretched prifoners like thefe, and their foldiers.
In two or three days after this, Hyat Sahib fent
for Capt. Campbell, treated him with great kind
nefs, gave him fome tea, and furnlfhed him with
two or three flilrts, an old coat, and two pairs of
breeches, which were ftripped from the dead bo
dies that were thrown afliore from the wreck —
every thing that was faved from it being fent to
K 2 Bidanore,

J9S . ADVENTURES IN AN
Bidanore. At this interview he treated him with
great refpedt — gave him, befide the articles alregB-
dy mentioned^ thirty rupees — ¦And, upon his going
awayi told him that in a few days a very flattering
propofal would be made tp him, . and that his
fituatipn wpuld.be rendered iiPt only comfortably,
tut enviable.

CHAPTER

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA.

lot

CHAPTER THE EIGHTH.

\
KlSTORY OFHYAT SAHIB. — oUR TRAVELLER
IS CALL/ED upon to enter INTO THE
SERVICE OF HYDER, AND OFFERED A COM
MAND.  PEREMPTORILY REFUSES IT.  A
NATIVE PRISONER.  COURTS OF JUSTICE.
 MR. hall's AFFECTING HISTORY. —
CAPT. CAMPBELL AGAIN PRESSED TO
SERVE IN HVDER's ARMY.  REFUSES,^ IS
THREATENED TO BE HANGED, AND IS AC
TUALLY SUSPENDED, BUT LET DOWN
AGAIN. — PROJECTS A PLAN TO EXCITE
A REVOLT, AND SO ESCAPE.

I

N the evening of the day on which the jemadar
Hyat Sahib had honoured Capt. Campbell with an
audienccr, given him clothes and moneyj and in
formed him tiiat a propofal, which he called flat
tering, would be made to him, he was fent for to
attend, not at the court, but af the houfe of a man
high in office. As he expedted to meet Hyat
Sahib himfelf, and trembled at the thoughts of his
expedted propofitio;i, our traveller was furprifed,
and indeed pleafed,' to find that it was with one of
K 3 his

1-9& ADVENTURES .IN AN 4-**'
his people only that he was to have a conference.
This man received him with great kindnefs, encou
raged him, made him fit down with him, and be
gan to fpeak of Hyat Sahib, whom he extolled to
the fkies, as a perfon endowed with every great
and amiable quality, and poffeffed of the friendfhip^
and confidence of his mafter, Hyder Alii, in a great
er degree than any other perfon, Tippoo Sahib,
his own fon, not excepted : he then gave him the
private hiftory of Hyat — faying, that he was born a
Genioo Prince, of one of the provinces of the Ma-.
labar-'coaft, which had fallen beneath the irrefiflible
arms of Hyder^ and had been by him annexed to
the vaft Myforean empire. Hyat, he faid, was
then only a boy of eleven or twelve years of age,, of
a moft. promifing genius, and a quicknefs of mind
unufually met with in one of fuch lender years.
Hyder,- who was in all refpedts a man of unrival- ,
led penetration, thought he faw in the boy that
which, if properly cultivated, would turn out of
great ufe to a ftate ; and as, 'in all Mahomedan go
vernments, unconnedted, ifolated boys, oft-times
flaves, are bred up in the feragllo to fucceed to the
great offices of the ftate, Hyder adopted the boy,
had him made a Mahomedan, and, in fadl, treated
him as if he had been the iffue of his own loins, and
brought him up with' all the affediion and tender
nefs of a fond parent. The Sultan, however, wa,s
not difappointed in the expedlations he had formed ;
' for

^yERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 193
for Hyat Sahib had, in zeal, fidelity, and attach
ment, as well as in intelledlual faculties and talents
for governing, even furpaffed the warmeft hopes of
his mafter.
When the man had thus finiflied his hiftory of
Hyat Sahib, which he overcharged with fqlfome
panegyric, he told the Captain (with a face full of
that triumphant importance which one who thinks
he is conferring a great favour generally affumes),
that it was the intention of Hyat Sahib, for and on
behalf of his mafter the Sultan, to give him the
command of five thoufaiid men.
"It is not poffible for me," fays the Captain,
" to defcribe my difmay at this formal propofal, or
pourtray the various emotions that took poffeffion
of my breaft. Refontment had its fhare — the pride
of the foldier, not unaccompanied with the pride
of family and rank, while it urged me to fpurn
' fuch a bafe accommodation, made me confider the
offer as a great infult. I therefore paufed a little,
to fupprefs my feelings; and then told him my
firm refolution never to acdept of fuch a pi'Opofal ;
and upon .his expfeffing great aftpnifhment at my
declining a ftation fo fraught with advantage, I laid
down, in the beft. manner I could, my reafons ;
and I. muft fay, that he liftened to all the objec
tions I ftarted with great patience; but, in the
K 4 con-

q6o adventures in an
conclufion faid, he had little doubt of finding^
means to overcome my reludtance.
" He difmiffed me for the prefent, and I re
turned to my prifon, where I related to my compa
nion, Mr. Hall, every thing that paffed between
us: we canvaffed the matter fully, and he agreed
with me, that it was likely to turn out a moft dread-.
ful arid cruel perfecution. It was out his occafion
that I felt the truth of the. principle, that perfecu-.
tion never fails to be fabyerfive of its own end,
and to promote that which it is intended to deftroy,
There is, in the human mind,; an innate abhor
rence of compulfion ; and perfecution always gives
new ftrength and elafticity to the foul ; and at laft*
when ftrained to its utmoft extent, it makes a man
furmount difficulties which at firft feemed to be
beyond the reach of humanity. .
"PiQiJED by the idea of perfecution, I began
to feel a degree of enthufiafm to -which I was be
fore a ftranger : I looked forward, yvith a kind- of
gloomy pleafure, to the miferies that brutal ty
ranny might inflidt upon me, even to dej^th itfelf;
and already began to indulge the exultation of
martyrdom. " No," faid I, " my dear Hall I
never will I tarnifli the character of a Britifh fol
dier- — never will I difgrace my blood or my profef
fion — never fhall an adt of mine fully the pure faine of

overland journey to INDIA. 201
"of my revered father — never fliall any fufferings
of mine however poignant, or worldly advantage
however fedudllve, tempt me to do that wliich his
noble fpirit would regard with horror or contempt.
I may, and I forcfee I muft be miferable ; but I
never will be bafe or degenerate!" Indeed I had
wrought myfelf up to fuch a pitch of firmnefs, that
I am perfuaded the moft exquifite and refiaed cru
elties which the ingenuity of an Iroquois ludlan
could have Inflidted on my body, would have been
utterly Incapable of bending the ftubborn temper
of my mind."
The place in which Mr. Hall and Capt. Camp
bell were lodged was fituated in a way not very fa
vourable to their feelings. Juft within fight of it,
the commandant of the citadel held a court — by him
called a court of juftice, where the moft barbarous
cruelties were hourly exercifed, moft of them for
the purpofe of extorting money, and compelling
the difcovery of fuppofed hidden treafure. Indeed,
five fixths of thofe who fuffered were of this de
fcription ; and the procefs purfued was as artful as
¦-barbarous ; they firft began with careffes, then
proceeded to examination and crofs-examination,
thence to threats, thence to punifhmerit, and,
finally, to the moft cruel tortures.
K,5 Directly

202- adventures IN an
DiRficTLX oppofite to diem, was imprifoned an
unfortunate perfon,- whp had for years been a clofe
captive, and the fport and fubjedt of thofe enormi
ties., He was a man once of the higheft rank in
the country where now he was prifoner : for a
feries of years he had been governor and fjole ma
nager of the whole province of Bidanore. This
was during the reign of the laft rana, or queen,
whofe family had been fovereigns of the country
for time immemorial, till Hyder made a conqueft
of, and annexed it to his" other ufurpations. Unfor-
•tunately for this perfon, he was fuppofed to hav-
alnaffed and fecreted enormous treafures, in c6n-
fequence of which he had already undergone the
fiery ordeal of torture feveral times. He was fup
pofed to have produced, from firft to laft» about
fifteen lacks of pagodas; and then, in the courfe
of eighteen months, was degraded gradually, from
the high refpedt in which he was at firft heM,^ down
to a moft abjedt ftate— threatened, flogged, punifhed
i|i a variety of ways, and, finally, put to the moft
cruel tortures. But the fortitude with which he and
all of them bore their punifliment was heroic bc-
yoild all belief. Nothing could furpafs it, except the
fkill and inventive ingenuity which the barbarians
exhibited ia ftriking out new modes pf torture. ¦
 ; - ..-.,. ,.'!
Mr.. Hall, notwithftanding the various fufferings
botJji .(}f 4iii&d ¦ and body which he had undergone, began

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 203^
began to recruit, and get a little better ; and this
circumftance, ot itfelf, diffufed a flow of fpirits
over his fellow prifoner that contributed to his
fupport. They confoled each other by every
means they could devife — fometimes indulging in
all the luxury of woe — fometimes rallying each
other, and, with ill-diff.mbled fprightlinefs, call
ing on the goddefs Euphrofyne to come with her
" Quips and cranks, and wanton wiles,
" Nods and becks, and -wreathed fmiles.
but, alas ! the mountain nymph, fweet Liberty;
was far away, and the goddefs fhunned thelt
abode. They, however, began to conceive, that they
might form a fyftem for their eafe and comfort, and
by a methodical arrangement, entrench themfelves
from the affaults of grief: to this end, they formed
feveral refolutions, and entered into certain engage-*
ments, fuch as, never to repine at their fate, if they
eould avoid zV— to draw confolation frora the more
dreadful lot of others, if they coulc^aiid to encou
rage hope — "hope that comes to all;" and, on \
the whole, to confine their converfation - as much
as poffii(ble. to fiibjedts of an agreeable nature ; but
thefe, like many other rules which we lay down
'for the cotidndl of life, were often broken by necef-
K 6 fity,

204 .ADVENTURES IN AN
fity, and left them to regret the fallibility of all hu-
man.jjrecautionary fyftems.
The youth Snd ftrength of Mr. Hall was to the
full as adequate as that of his fellow fufferer -to the
fuppprt pf any perfonal hardfhip:" his intelledlual
powers were excellent, his temper incomparable,
and his fortitude unparallelled ; yet^it was eafy to
perceive that fomething more than appeared upon the
furface wrought -within him, and griawed bis heart
with hidden pain. " United as we were by fenti
ment, as well as by parity of fufferings," fays Capt.
Campbell, " I felt for him too deeply, not to have
a great curiofity to know what.it was that preyed
upon his mind : we had now been months together
fellow-fufferers ; and I thought myfelf hot with
out fome claim to his confidencerr-I told him fo,
and defired him to impart tp me his ftory ; which
he, with his aCcuftomed fuavity andcondefcenfion^
agreed to — affuring me, that it was not fuch a ftory
as could requite 'the trouble of hearing, it, or in-
tereft any one but himfelf, or fome very warm
friend indeed: fuch, however, he. added, he tqo|t
me to be; and,' as fuch, vyould tell it to me. I
think it well worth relating, and wilLgive it in
his own words, as nearly as I can reraemb^-
them. - -,.
*? Although

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 205
"Although you are now, my dear, friend,"
fays he, " a witnefs to my being the moft perfedlly
wretched of all created beings, yet the time is not
long paft when fortune fmiled upon and gave me
promife of as much happinefs as man In this
wretched vale of tears is allowed by his circum
fcribed nature to hope for. I have feen the time,
when each revolving fun rofe to uflier me to a day
of joy, and fet to confign me to a night of undif-
turbed repofe — when the bounties of Nature, and
the produdlions of Art, were poured with the pro-
fufioii of fond paternal affedtlon into my lap — when
troops of friends hailed my rifing profpedls— when
health and peace made this perfon their uninter
rupted abode — and when the moft benignant love
that ever bleffed a mortal filled up the meafure of
my bllfs. Yes, Campbell ! it was once my happi-,
nefs, though now, alas I the fource of poignant
mifery, to be bleffed with the beft parents that ever
watched over the welfare of a child — with friends,
too, who loved me, and vihom my heart che-
riflied — and, O God ! do I think of her, and yet
retain my fenfes— with the affedtions of a young
lady, than whom Pri^yidenee, in the f^ilpefs pf its
power and bounty to mankind, never formed pnq
more lovely, one more angelic in perfon, more
heavenly in difpofition, more rich in intelledtual
endowments. Alas I my friend, will you, can you
pardon thefe warm ebullitions of a fond paffion?
wUl

20S- ADVENTURES iN AN
will ypu"«for a moment enter into ray feelings, and
make allowance for thefe tranfports i* But how can
ypu.? Your friendfhip and pity may," indeed, in
duce you tp excufe this interruption ; but, to fym-
pathife truly, and feel as I feel, you muft have,
known the charming girl herfelf.
" My father, though he did not move in the
very firft walk of life, held the rank of a gentleman
by birth and education, and was refpedtable, not,
only as a man of confiderable property, but as a
perfon who knew how to turn the gifts of fortune
to their beft account : he was generous without ^
prodigality, and charitable without oftentationV-he
was allowed by all who knew him to be the moft
lender of hufbands— the moft zealous and fincere -of
friends ; and I ean bear witnef^ to his being the beft
of parents. As long as I can remember to have
keen, able to make a remark, the tendernefs of both
my father and mother knew no bounds; I feemed
te occupy all th^ir thoughts, all their attention ;
and in a few years, as I thank God I never made
an unfuitable return for their affedtion, it increafed
tfr fuel* a degree, that their exiftence feemed to
hang- upon mine.
" To make as much of a child fb beloved' as his
Batural talents would allow, no expence was fpared
iiit my education : from childhofod, every inftruc» tion

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA, 207
tion that money could purchafe, -and every allure
ment to learn that fondnefs could fuggeft, were hc-
ftowed upon me ; while my beloved father, tracing
the advances I made with the magnifying eye of
affedtion, u'ould hang over me in rapture, and en
joy by anticipation the fame and honours that,
overweening fondnefs fuggefted to him, muft one
day furround me. Thefe prejudices, ray dear
friend! arifing ftom the excefs of natural affedtion,
are excufable, if not amiabk, and deferve a better
fate than difappointment. Alas ! my honoured fa
ther, you Uttle knew — and, oh ! may you never
know, what fort of fame, what fort of honours,
await your child ! May the anguifli he endures,
and his moft calamitous fate, never reach your
cars I for, too well I know, 'twould give a deadly
wrench to your heart, and precipitate you unr
timely to your grave.
"Thus years rolled on; during whlclv tnne
feemed to have added new wings to bis flight, fo
quickly did they pafs. Unmarked by any of thofe
finifter events that parcel out the time in weary
ftages to the mifortunate, it Aid on unperceived;
and an enlargement in my fize, and an inoreaife of
knowledge, were all I had to inform me that eigh
teen years had paffed away.

"-It was at this time that I firft found the
nooth current of my tranquihty interrupted, and
le tide of my feelings fwelled and agitated, by the
cceffion of a new ftreani of fenfation. . In ihort,
became a flave to the delicious pain of love ; andj
fter having borne them in concealment for a long
me, at length colfedled courage to declare it.
'ranknefs and candour were among the virtues of
ly beloved : fhe liftened Xo proteftations of affec-
on, and, rifing above the little arts of her fex,
vowed a reciprocal attachment. .The meafure of
ly blifs feemed now to be full : the purity of my
affioii was fuch, that the thoughts of the groffer
nimal defires never once occurred ; and happy in
)ving, and in being beloved, we paffed our time in
[1 the innocent blandifhments which truly virtuous
)ve infplres, without our imaginations roaming
/en for an inftant into the wdds of fenfuality.
" As I was to inherit a genteel, independent
irtune, my father propofed: to breed me up to a
arned profeffion — the law ; rather- to invigorate
id exercife my intelledts, and as a ftep to rank in
le, ftate, than for mere lucrative purpofes. I was
at to one of the uni.verfities, with an allowance
lited to his intentions towards me ; and was im-
lediately to have beea fe.nt to travel for my fur-
ler improvement, when an unforefeen accident
ippened, which completely crulhed all my father's viewSj

OVERIAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 20{>
views, dafhed the cup of happinefs from my lips,
and brought me ultimately to that deploiable 'ftate
in which you have now the misfortune to be joined
along with me.
" It v/as but a few months antecedent to my
embarking for the eailern world, that my father,
whom I had for fome time with forrow obferved
thoughtful, rtudious, and melancholy, took me into
his ftudy, and feizing my hand, and looking ear
neftly in my face, while his countenance be
trayed the violent agitation of his mind, afked me
emphatically, if I thought 1 had fortitude to bear
the greateft poffible calamity ? I was horror-ftruck
at his emotion, accompanied by fuch a queftion—
but replied, I hoped I had. - He then afked me,
if I had affedtion enough for him to forgive him if
he was the caufe of it? I anfwered, that the idea
connedted with the word forgivenefs, -was that
which I could never be brought by any earthly cir
cumftance to apply to my father ; but begged him
at once to difclofe the worft to me — as, be il what
it might, my mifery could not furpafs what I
felt from the myfterious manner in which he then
fpoke, " He then told me that he was an undone man — •
that he had, with the very beft intentions, and with
the view of aggrandizing me, engaged in great and-
important

210 adventures in aN
important fpeculations, which, had^they fucceeded,
tvould liave given us a princely fortune-^ but,
haying turfied out, unfortunately, the jeverfe, had
left him little above beggary. He ^dded, that -he
had not the^fefolution to communicate his loffes to
me until neceffity compelled^him to tell me all the
truth. " Although this was a fevere fliock to me, I
endeavoured to conceal my feelings from my father,
on whofe account, more than on ffiy- own, I was
affedled, and pretended to make as light of it as fo
very important a misfortune could juftify; and I
had the happinefs tp perceive that the worthy man
took fome comfprt from my fuppofed indifference.
I conjured him not to let fo very trivial a thing as
the lofs of , property, which could be repaired,
break,, in on his peace of mind or health, which
could not ; and obfervc4 to him, that we had all of
us ftill enough, for that my private property
(yvliich I poffeffed independent of him, and, which
a relation left me) would amply fupply all our ne-
ceffities. " Having thus endeavoured to accommodate
my unhappy father's feelings to his loffes, I had yet
to accommodate my own ; and begari to revolve in
my miud what was likely to enfue from, and what
ftep was moft proper to be taken, in, this dreadful change

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 211
thange of circumftances. That which lay neareft
to my heart firft- occurred ; you will readily guefs
that I mean my love : to involve her I loved more,
far more, -than my life, in the misfortune of my
family, was too horrible a confideration to be out
weighed even by the dread of lofing her. I knew
not what to do, and 1 thought upon it till I became
almoft enfrenzied. In this ftate I went to her, and
unfolded the whole ftate of our concerns, together
with my refolution not to involve her in our ruin ;
when, can you believe it ? the lovely girl infifted
on making my fate indiffolubly her's — not, as fhe
faid, that flie had the fmalleft apprehenfions that
lapfe of rime or change of circumftance could make
an alteration in our affedtion, but that fhe wifhed to
give my mind that repofe which 1 might derive
fi-om fecurity. This 1 would by no means accede
to; and, for the prefent, we contented ourfelves
with mutual vows of eternal fidelity.
"As foon as I thought my father's mind fit for
fuch a converfation, I opened to him a plan I had
formed of coming to India, to advance my fortune.
His underftanding approved of it, but his heart dif-
fented ; and he faid, that to part with me would
give the finifliing ftroke to his misfortune: but, as
my intereft was tolerably good, I reprefented to
him the great likelihood I had of fuccefs ; at laft,
with fome difficulty he confented.
"My

212 ADVENTURE* IW AM
" My next ftep was to acquaint Mifs^^- — -Mtith'
my refolution. I purpofely pafs over a meeting
which no power of language cail deferibe ! then
how can I? — Oh ! Campbell,, the remembrance of
it gnaws me hke a vulture here," (and he ptt his
hand upon his. heart, while the tears rolled down
his cheek) " and will foon, foon bring nie to my
end. " Not to detain you with vain efforts to defcribe'
all our feelings, I Will confine myfelf to telling you,
after having made every neceffary preparation,
and divided with my much honoured parents the
Uttle property I poffeffed, I fet fail for India, in a
ftate of mind compared with which the horrors- of
annihilation would have been enviable : the chaos
in my thoughts made me infenfible to every bbjedl
but -one ; and I brooded with a fort of ftupid,
gloomy indulgence, over the portrait of Mifs  ,
which hung round my neck, and was my infepa
rable companion, till-the people who feized me
as I came afhore plundered me of it, and thereby
-deprived me of the laft refuge for comfort I had
left. Oh! monfters ! ! aibarians ! had you glut
ted your favage fury by diflevering my limbs, one
after another, from my body, it would have been
mercy, compared with depriving me of that little
image of her 1 love ! But it is aU over, and I fhall
icon fink into the grave, and never more be bleffed with

OVERLAND JOURNEY xa INDIA. 2l3
with the view of thofe heavenly features, till we
meet in that region where all tears are wiped away,
and where, I truft, we fliall be joined together for
endlefs ages, in eternal, never-fading blifs ! "

* *

On the day fucceeding that on which the agent
of Hyat Sahib had held the late difcourfe with our
traveller, he was again fent for, and brought to the
fame perfon, who afked him whether he had duly
confidered of the important offer made him by Hy
at Sahib, and of the confequences likely to refult
from a refufal? and apprifed him at the fame time,
that the command of five thoufand men was an ho
nour which the firft Rajahs in the Myforean domi
nions would grafp at with tranfport. Capt. Camp
bell told him he was well convinced of the honour
fuch a command would confer on any man but an
Englifhman^ whofe country being the obedt of
Hyder's inceffant hoftihty, would make the accept
ance of it infamy — that although he knew there
were but too many Englifhmen apoftates to their
country, be hoped there were but few to be found
in India willing to accept of any emolument, how
ever great, or any temptations, however fpecious,
to fly from the ftandard of their country, and rally
round that of its bittereft enemy ; that, for his own
part, being of a name ever foremoft in the ranks
of loyalty and patriotifm, and of a family that had
hitherto

I2t4 ADVENTURES IN AN
hitherto detradted nothing from the honours of that
name, fuch an adt pf apoftacy would be peculiarly
'linfamous in him, and he could view it in-np better
light than traiterous and parricidal ; that, indepen
dent of all thofe claims, which were of themfelves
fufficient to deter him, he felt within himfelf a
- principle, iperhaps innate, perhaps infpired by mi
litary habit, that forbade his acceding ; and, finally,
appealed to the good fenfe of Hyat Sahib, whether
a man who in fuch'circumfVarices liad betrayed his
native country, and facrificed her interefts to his,
own eonvenlertce, was fuch' a perfon as he hiriifelf
could prudently place confidence in.
Notwithstanding thefe, and a -thoufand
other remonftrances, the man ftill continued to
prefs him, and ufed every argument of -perfuafion',
"that ingenuity could didtate, or hints of punifhraent
enforce, to fhake his purpofe; but in vain: attach
ment to" his country and family rofe paramount to
all other confiderarions, and he finally gave a pe
remptory, decifive refufal.
After this time, he was repeatedly urged on
the fubjedt by fair perfuafives : they then had re-
courfe to menace ; then they withheld the daily '
pittance aflowed him for his fupport; and at lengtii
proceeded to coercion, tying a rope round his neck,
and hoifliog him up to a tree. AH this, hpwever, • he

• VERLAND JOURNEV TO INTJIA. 815
he bore firmly ;' and if it had any effedt, it feems
to have been to confirm him in his refolution.
Mr. Hall, and he, thus driven to the brink of
extindtion, yet confoled themfelves with the reflec
tion, that thofe whom moft they loved were not
fharing their unhappy fate, and were fortunately
ignorant of their feelings.
Thus they continued for many months, during
which no alteration whatever took place in their
treatment or fituation. They heard a thoufand con-
tradiftory reports of vIdtories,gained over the Eng
lifh, and "again of fome fucceffes on their part:
they, however, defifted to prefs Capt. Campbell
into their fervice. The only relief (fom his fuffer
ings, and thofe of Mr. Hall, layin the refources of
their chvn minds, and in their mutual endeavours to
pleafe and confole one another : the circumftances
of aggravation were, the neceffity of daily bearing
witnefs to the moft barbarous punifhments inflidted
upon wretched individuals under the femblance of
juftice, and the occafional deprivation of their food,
either by the fraud of the fepoys who attended
them, or the caprice or cruelty of their fuperiors,
We find, however, that tiiefe attendants were not
all alike: fome overflowed with mercy, charity, and
the milk of human kindnefs ; while others, again,
were -almof^ as bad men as die fovereigns they
fei ved.

216 ADVENTURES IN AN
ferved. 'The Captain and his companion were not
allowed the ufe of pen, ink, or paper : and very
feldom could afford themfelves the luxury of {hav
ing, or clean linen : nor were they at all fheltered
from the inclemency of the ¦weather, tiU at length
a littie room was built for them of mud, which
heing fmall and damp, rendered their fituation
wprfe than it was befpre.
The prifoner wliom we have already mentioned,
as having, in the tiirie of the former fovereigni
held the firft office in Bidanore, ftill continued op
pofite to them ; and the Captain and he ,at length
began to underftand each- other, and found means,
by looks, figns and geftures, to exchange thoughts,
and hold an intercourfe of fentiments together.
From the (jlrcumftance of his being a native, and
of courfe, well fkllled in the language^ he had the
beft of intelligence, and was always eager to- con
vey to his European fellow-fufferdw- any circum
ftance or news that he thoughj^ might be agreeable :
fome meffages alfo paffed between them, by means
of the fepoys, who had alternately been his guard
and thelr's; for the guards were changed every
week. " Projects and hopes of a new' kiiid," fays
Capt. CampbeU, " now began to intrude them
felves on my thoughts ; and I conceived a defign, which.

OVERLAND JOURNEV TO INDIA. 217
which I'flattered myfelf was not entirely imprac
ticable, to effedt an efcape, and eveti a revolt in
the place. A variety of circumftances concurred
to perfuade me, that the tyranny of Hyder, and
of his fervant Hyat Sahib, was abhorred, though
none dared to give vent. to their fentiments. I
thought I could obferve, that the native prifoner
oppofite to me was privately beloved, and might,
from the recolledlion of his former dignities,' have
confiderable influence in the place. Several Arcot
fepoys and their officers (fome of them belonging
to my own regiment) were alfo priforiers at large ;
and withal I recolledted, that difficulties apparently
more ftupendous had been overcome by Englifh
men ; 'having often heard it afferted, that there
was not a prifon in the known world out of which
a Britifh fubjedl had not made his efcape.
" Fraught with thefe conceptions, I at
tempted to founJ the officers of the Arcot feppvs,
whether it were not poffible for us to effedt our
efcape ? So arderit is the flame of liber^ in all
men's breafts, fo great is the deteftation of human
namre to flavery, tiiat I perceived a manifeft wil-
llngnefs in the people about us to join me in an
attempt to procure our libertyj or bring about a
revolt in the garrifon. My heart beat high with
the hope ; and I began to flatter myfelf, that the
time was not far removed when we fhould not only
L bid

218 ADVENTURES IN Alf"
bid defiance to our tyrants, but even make thetrt
curfe the day on which we were eaft aflibre oil
their coafl:.
" Having thus diftantiy founded all whom I
thought were likely to concur^ upon the pradtica-^
blKty of the attempt, and found them, as I con-^
ceived, difpofed to take fliare in it, it yet reniained
to confider of the means, and, after having formed.
the general outlines of a plan, to bring it into fhape.
The firft of thefe was a critical confideration ; the
fecond required addrefs and management, and was
likely to be impeded by the vigilance of the people
about us, who would not fail to remark, and take
the alarm, from any unufual intercourfe: or dif
courfe bptween us ; and without a .mutuaj commu
nication of thoughts, and full deliberation by all
parties concerned, as well as knowledge of the fort
and its different gates, nothing could, with any
profpedt of fuccefs, be determined^ — notliirig, witht-
put the moft imminent hazard, be attempted.. I
therefore held varipus councils witii my own mind,
and with Mr. Hall, pn the fubedt: — moft of
which proved abortive, without at all difcourag
ing us.
"At laft I began to think of founding the Blda^
nore prifoner, forjnerly governor of the place ; and
determijied, if poffible, to bring him into our con--
; , fultations.

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 219
fultations, as I had before hoped to make him a
party in the execution of the projedt ; but while I
was fettling all this much to my own fatisfadtion,
an event occurred which extinguiftied all my
hopes in that way."

CHAPTER

320 ADVENTURES rIM 'AN: • i ¦,•0

tfHA'PTER THE NINTH.

the project to escape defeated.— the
prisoners are laid in irons.  intole
rable hardships.  death of mr. hall.
 mli^lancholy situation of his fel
low captive. — capt. campbell releas
ed from prison.
VV HILE the fanguine mind of our traveller was
overflowing with the hope of carrying his projedt
for an efcape into effedt, Mr. Hall and he were one
day unexpedtedly loaded with irons, and faftened
together, leg by leg, by one bolt. , The furprife
occafioned by the appearance of the irons, and the
precautionary manner in which it was undertaken,
was indeed great : but ftill 'mpre was the Captain ,
furprifed to obferve, that the 'perfon who Was em
ployed to fee this put in execution, manifefted un
ufual emotions, feemed much affedted, and even
fhed tears as he looked on : and while the fudden
nefs and cautionary mode of doing it convinced him
that fome refiftance on their part was apprehended, .
the forrow which the officer who fuperintended it
(Jildofed, portended in his mind a fatal, or at leaft
-a very ferious iffue.
From

OVERLAND JOURNEY TOINDIA, 221
From this unlucky event, our traveller recelve:d
a temporary depreffion ; and the rapidly increafingi
illnefs of Mr. Hall rendered his fituation more than ¦
ever calamitous ; btat, again, his fpirit?, eageriy
prone to grafp at every thing that gave a momentary
hope of fupport, were a little recruited by confufed
rumours of the Englifh army having made a defcent
on the Malabar coaft : and fo powerful is the iiiflii-
ence of mind on the animal fyftem, that Mr. Hall
enjoyed from the report a momentary alleviation
of his malady ; having, however, no medical affift
ance, nor even a fufficient fuftenance to further
the favourable operations of nature, he relapfed
again, and the difeafe fell upon him with redoubled
fury. A very fcanty portion of boiled rice, with a
more fcanty morfel of ftii;iking fait fifh or putrid
flefli, was a very inadequate fupport even for hi's
felldw captive, who, though emaciated, was In
health, but certainly very improper medicine for a
perfon labouring under a malady fuch as Mr, Hall'^,
which required comfort, good medical fkill, and
delicate nutritious food. The tea -which Hyat
Sahib had given Capt. Campbell was expended;
neither he nor his companion were allowed to be
fhaved from the hour they were put in irons, an
indulgence of that kind being forbidden by the bar
barous rules of thepi-ifon : and, to refine upon their
tortures, fleep was not allowed them uninterrapted ;
for, in conformity to another regulation, they were
L 3 difturbed

222 JiDVENTURES IN AN
difturbed every half hour by a noife fomethmg re
fembhng. a watchman's rattie, and. a fellow, who,
ftriking every part of their irons with, a. kind of
ham.mer, , and examining them left they fhould be
cut, broke in upon that kind reftorative, and awoke
their fouls to frefh horrors.
Poor Mr^ Hall was now approaehiixg to hit
end with hourly accelerated fteps. • Every appli'-
catipn that the Captain made in his favour was re--
fufed, or rather ^reated with cruel negledl and con
temptuous filence ; it was plainly to be forefeen
that the barbarians would not abate him in his laft
minutes one jot of mifery, and that his amiable
friend was fated to expire under every attendari.t
horror that mere fublunary circumftances could
create. But that pity which the mighty, the power
ful and enlightened denied, natural benevpkil&e,
operating upon an uninformed mind and fcanty
means, afforded them. Hyat Sahib, the powerful,
the, wealthy, the governor of a great and opulent
province, refufed to an expiring fellow creature a
little cheap relief — while a poor fepoy, taxed his
little means to fupply it: one who guarded. him, of
his own accord, at imminent hazaid of punifhraent,
purchafed them a lamp and a little oil, which they
. burned for the Jaft few nights. " PUj.

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. *~2j
" Philosophers and divines," fays Captain
Campbell, " have declaimed upon the advantages
of a well fpent life, as felt in the dying hour. To
witnefs one example fuch as Mr, Hall held forth,
would be worth volumes of precepts on this fub
jedl. The unfeigned refignation with which he
met his diffolution, and the majeftic fortitude with
which he looked in the face the various circum
ftances of horror that furrounded him, rendered
him the moft dignified objedt I ever beheld or
conceived, and the moft glorious inftance of con-
fcious virtue triumphing over the terrors of death,
and the cunning barbarity of mankind.
" About a quarter of an hour before he died,
Mr. Hall broached a moft tender fubjedt of conver
fation, which he followed up with a feries of obfer
vations, fo truly refined, fo exquifitely turned, fo
delicate and fo pathetic, that it feemed almoft the
language of infjjiration ; as if. In proportion to the
decay of the body, intelledt Increafed, and the dy
ing man had become all mind. This converfation
continued to the very inftant of his death ; during
which time he held ray hand clafpcd in his. His
hand grew cold ; he faid his lower lirabs were all
llfelefs, and that he felt death coming over him
with flow creeping fteps. He again moralized,
thanking God with pathetic fervour for his great
mercy in leaving him his intelledts unclouded, and
L 4 the

224 ADVENTURES IN AN
the. .organ of communication (the tongue) unen-
feebled, that, tP the laft, he might fplace his friend
and fellow-fufferer-— " Ahl Campbell!" conti
nued Ik, " to what a feries of miferies am I now
leaving you ! death in fuch circumftances is a blef'
ing — I view mine as fuch ; and fhould .think it
more .fo, ifr it contributed, by awakening thofe.
pex).ple to a fenfe of their cruelty, to foften their ri
gour to. you : but cruelty like their's is fyftematic,
and- ftoops.not tP the cpntroul of the feelings.
Could I hope that you would yet efcape from their
power, and that you would once more prefs your
family to your bofom, the thought would brighten
ftill the moment of our feparation ; and, oh I my
friend ! could I ftill further hope that you would
one day fee mj moft belpved and honoured parents,
and tell them" pf my death without wringing their
hearts with its hprrid circumftances, pffer them my
laft duties, and tell how I revered them. — If, too,
you could fee my  , and tell her how far, far
mOre dear than  -^ — ! " Here he turned his
eyes toward the lamp, then faintly on me — made a
cpnvulfiye effort to fqueeze my hand — cried out,
Campbell ! oh; Campbell ! the lamp is going out !'*-
and expired without a groan,"
Though the death of Mr. Hall had been long
expedted by our traveller, yet, having only coiifi-
d.ered and felt the point befpre his death merely as it
refpedt ed

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA, >S'35
refpedted him and his misfortunes, a great portion
of the calamity remained uncoi-iceived : and, now
that he was dead. Captain Ca'mphell began for the
firft time to confider and feel the fubjedt as it con
cerned himfelf. Refleftion told him, that his friend
was happily reheved from woe, and in a ftate of
blifs ; but he himfelf ftill remained a prey to per
haps new barbarities, without hope of rehef from
the old. No partner to fliare, no fecial converfe
to alleviate, no, friend to confole him under his af-
flldllons, he looked at the body of his friend with
envy, and lamented thatdeath had not afforded him,
too, a fhelter from the cruelties which fate feemed
determined to heap upon him.
In the morning, a report was made to the cora-
-maridant, of the death of Mr. Hall, and our tra
veller patiently waited for the rerrioval of the dead
body till the evening, when he defired the fepoys
whtj guarded hiin to apply for its being removed.
They returned, and told him that they could get no
anfwer re^edting It. Night came on, but there
was no appearance of an intention tia unfetter him
from the corpfe. The commandant was fitting in
his court, adminiftering, in the manner before de
fcribed, juftice I Capt. Campbell called out to him
¦wfth all his might but could get no anfwer. Great
fiOw was his rage and confternation ; for, exclufive
of the -painful idea of being fhackled to the dead
L 5 body

226 ADVENTURES IN AN
body of a friend he loved, another circumftance
contributed to make it a ferious fubjedt of horror.
In thofe climates, the weather is fo intenfely hot,
that putrefaftion almoft inftantly fucceeds death;
and meat that is killed in the morning, and kept in
the fhade, wiU be unfit for dreffing at night. In a
fubjedt, then, on which putrefadtion had made ad
vances even before death, and which remained ex
pofed to the open air, the procefs muft have been
much more rapid. So far, however, from compaf-
iionating his fituation, or indulging him by a, re
moval of the body, their barbarity fuggefted to them
to make it an inftrument of puniifhment ; and they
pertinaceoufly adhered to the mofl f mortifying fi
lence and difregard of his complaints. For feveral
days and nights it remained attached to him by the
irons. He grew almoft diftradted, wifhed for the
means of putting an end to his miferies by death,
and could not move without witneffing fome new
ftage.of putrefcence it attained, or breathe withoiu
inhaling the putrid effluvia that arofe from it;
while myriads of flies aqd loathfome infedts
refted on it, the former of which every now and
then vifited himfelf, ciawling over hjs fa^e ansj
hands, and lighting in hundreds on bis vidiuals, ^ij
At laft, when the body had reached thatj fhOjSk-
ing loathfome ftate of putrefadtion which threatened
that further delay would render removal abentuna-
- , We,

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 227
ble, if not impoffible, the monfters agreed to take
it away from him, and he was fo far relieved : but
the mortification and injury he underwent from it,
joined to the agitation of the preceding week, made
a vifible inroad on his health. He totally loft his
fpirits ; his appetite entirely forfook him ; his long-
nouriflied hopes fled; and he looked forward to
death as the only defirable event that was within the
verge of likelihood or poffibility.
One day, however, his oppofite friend (the native
prifoner) gave him a look of the moft interefting and
encouraging kind ; and he perceived a more than ufual
buftle in the citadel, while the fepoys informed him
that they were ordered on immediate fervice, and
that fome events of great importance had taken
place. From this feeble gleam, his mind naturally
adtive, though depreffed by circumftances of unufual
weight, again took fire, and hope brightened with
a kind of gloomy light the profpedt before him. He
revolved a thoufand things, and drew from them a
thoufand furmifes; but all as yet was only conjec
ture. In a day or two, the buftle increafed to a
high pitch, accompanied with marks of confterna
tion : the whole of the troops in the citadel were
ordered to march ; and the coitimandant, and a man
with a hamiuer and iofttiunents, came to take oS
his ixons,
•^ -- J . -' L6 While

^2» ADVENTURES IN AN
-# '
W^IILE they were at work, he perceived that
they were alfo taking off thofe of the native pri
foner oppofite to him, who went away: under a
guard : they looked at each other epmplacentiy,
npdded and finiled, as much as to exprefs, " w&
hope tp fee pne anpther in happier times not far dif
tant." Alas! -vaiii are humain hopes, and fhort and
dark is the extent of our utmoft forefight ! This.un-
happ man, without having committed any fort of
offence to merit it, but in conformity to the barbarous
policy of thofe countries, was, by the jemadar's or
ders, taken forth, and his throat cut! This- the je
madar himfelf ; after,wards acknowledged to Capt.
Campbell ; and,- what was ftill more abomin^ble-
;f poffible, undertook to juftify thq proceeding up.on-
the principles of reafon, found fenfe,, and-jprecedent
of Afiatic policy. - ' , i ^ :
i : ' \ ,'',.:.'.¦
In prder to elucidate this bufinefs* ijt, is ^egeffarys
to recur to events which- happehed anteG^dfUt^tQ.
this time ; but- of which, by reafon of hi&.fituati©a»
the Cajptain was then entirely ijgnQrant^ ....

:« ¦' 4 CHAPTER

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. f29

CHAPTER THE TENTH.

descent of general mathews on the ma
labar co ast, who mounts the ghauts,
a|}d approaches hydernagur.  capt,
Campbell's delight at getting into
the open air, after his horrible con
FINEMENT. — IS delivered unexpected
ly FROM HIS GUARDS.  RETURNS TO THE
FORT, AND PROPOSES TO THE JEMADAR
TO GIVE IT UP TO THE ENGLISH, — -PRO
CEEDS TO THE ENGLISH CAMP.

I

N order to relieve the Carnatic, which was fuf-
fering under the ravages of a formidable vidtorious;
array, who had not only cut off a great part: of our
forces on that coaft, but affronted our army,
even at the walls of Fort St. George, defeents
upon the coafts of Malabar were planned, in order
to make a diverfion : and General Matthews, in Jan.
.W83, landed, with a fmall army under, his com-
«>a|id,at a place called Rajamondroog— took Onore,
and- feveral, forts ; and being joined by other troopi,
sdiiGh, under the command of Colonel Humbert-
4isEi,^d done confiderable fervices to the fouthward,
and^were now commanded hy Colonel Macleod,
©arched from Cundapore, with an army confifting of

SS30 aoveKTures in an ^
of twelve hundred Europeans, and eight battalions
of fepovs, toward HulTaingurry Ghaut, a pafs that
leads over thofe immenfe mountains which divide
the peninfola, running north and fo-ath, from Per
fia to Cape Comorin After fufmounting obftacles
that would have difcouraged a lefs enterprifing com
mander, he mounted the Ghauf, carrying every
thing before him with the fixed bayonet ; and reach
ed, within a fhort march of Hydernagur, the place
where Capt. Campbell was confined. Thefe opera
tions were undoubtedly much facilitated by the death
of Hyder Alii, which happened while the Captain
was in prifon, and which drew the attention of
Tippoo Sahib to affairs of more'immediate impor
tance, than the defence of the Malabar forts. And
thus the reader perceives the occafion of the extra
ordinary revolution that fo fuddenly took place in
the fort.
Ignorant of thefe proceedings, however, as
our traveller of courfe muft be, he was utterly at a
lofs to account for the fudden refolution to rele^
him and his oppofite fellow-prifbner. He endea
voured to get fome explanation of it from the per*
fons about him; but all be could at that time coUefk
was, that the jemadar had diredted him to be taken
.but of irons, and to appear before him. He aei
cordingly walked but of the citadel with two or three
.men, who had charge of him. It was a delightfiil
.X, aftei-

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 231
afternoon ; and his fenfations on once more revifit-
ing the open air ; at again viewing the vaft expanfe
of the firmament above, and the profufion of beau
ties with which nature embellifhed the earth beneath,
were (as he fays) too blifsful, too fublime for de
fcription. For an hour of fuch delight as he then
experienced, a year of imprifonment was, he thought,
hardly too dear a price. Thefe exquifite fenfations
infenfibly led his heart to the moft, flattering pre-
fages : the animal fpirit appeared, in correfpondence
with the body, to have fliaken off a load of chains ;
and as he walked along, he feemed to tread on air.
Proceeding forward, they foundy at fome dif
tance from the fort, an open dooly, into which the
guards forcibly crammed him; and he was.Ca^;ried
off, ftifl attended by, the fame men. As they; went
along, his attendants gave him to underftand that
Hyat Sahib, the jemadar, was at a place ten or a
dozen miles diftant from Bidanore. Our traveller
thought it altogether a moft extraordinary circum
ftance, and was at a lofs to conjedlure for what
purpofe he required his prefence there. /He thdught,
perhaps, it was to deliver him , perfonally into die
hands of Tippoo; perhaps to fend him to Seririga-
patam. Sufpenfe whetted his curiofity ; and impa-
jient to knovv his fate, fet. his mind afloat upon a
wide fea of conjedlure. .'. il'- .1
When

2S2 • ADVENTURES IN AH »lVO
When they had-got about a mile 'ftomflils fe^,
they met a perfon attended by three Other-s, all Oil
horfeback. He was a man of confidel-able rank in
that country, and Captain Campbell recolledted to
havefeeflhirii at the jetttadar's court, where he had
manifefted a favourable- difpofition towards hiiri,
looking always gracibufly, and nodding to him,
which, confidering the defparity of their cirdum-
ftances, was not a littie extraordinary. The rao-
ment he recognized our traveller, he leaped: from
his horfej apparently in great agitation: then turn
ing to the- guards, ordered them to leave their pri
foner immediately ; faying at the fame time, that
he would-be anfwerable > for thfe confequences.
They feemed at firft to hefitate, whether they would
obey him or not ; but on his fhaking at them his
fword, which was all along drawn in his hand, and
fmeared with bloody and" repeating his orders a fe
cond time in a firm and decifive tone of voice and
manner, they all: ran. offi "¦: ; :
As foon as they wereafone, this gentleman re
vealed to the .Captain, that he .had ah along knew
who, he wzs; had moft heartily pitied hi& fufferings,
ajqd iprivatelyi entertained the moft anxious wiflies
to ferve him, but could not venture to interfere; thte
leaft 'jeaioufy, when once awakened, being ther^
always followed up by fummafy s/engeance. He
then mentioned his name ; that he was the fon of
'¦' a Kabob

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA.. 235
a Nabob near Vellore, whofe dominions had been
wrefted from him by force, and united to the Car
natic ; that his family had received great favours
from Capt. Campbell's father, in return for which
he felt himfelf bound to do him every fervice in
his power; but that, having been, after the mis
fortunes which befclhis family, taken into the
fervice of Hyder, and holding then a place of con
fequence under him, he was difqualified from de-
nioiiftrating his gratitude and efteem In the way he
wifhed: he added, that he had juft come from the
fummit of the Ghauts, where he left the Englifli ar
my pofted, after their having beat theCircar troops„
and carried all the ftrong works which had lieen
eredted for the defence of the paffes, and which were
deemed from their fituation impregnable ; that the
jemadar, Hyat Sahib, had gone thither to encourage
the troops, and animate them to one grand effort
of refiftance, and would remain there till the fuc
ceeding day. Here he ftopped, and fci med much
agitated ; but, recovering himfelf foon, faid. In a
folemn and alarming manner, "This day I heard
Hyat Sahib give orders to bring you before him. In
order that he might fatiate his revenge by ycflir
death ! How happy am I in having an opportunity
to refcue you ! I will carry you back with me,
therefore, to Bidanore, and place you in a ftate of
fecurity with mv family.
"Such

334 ADVENTURES IN AN
" Such unprecedented generofity," fays Captain
Campbell, " affedted me fenfibly. To run .fuch a
hazard as he muft have incurred, merely frora a
principle of gratitude for fervices fo remote both to
time and perfon, was more, than we could hope to
find even among Englifhmen, who boaft of their fu
perior juftice and generofity ; but in a nat-ive of In
doftan, where the tide of human feelings runs rather
low, was aftoniflilng. As well as my limited know
ledge of the language of the country enabled me, I
endeavoured to make him a fuitable acknowledg
ment, and lamented that my deficiency in the lan
guage prevented my giving vent to the extreme
fullnefs of my heart. He feemed, however, to be
fatisfied with my meaning ; and I was juft on the
point of returning with him to Hydernagur, when
we were fuddenly ftarted by the jemadar's, itiufic^
which was foon afterwards fucceeded by the .appear
ance of his guards advancing towards us at fome
diftance. He feemed confounded and alarmed ; la
mented in warms terms, his incapacity to ferve me ;
and, ppinting to a path which, wound through a
wood that lay on either fide of the road, diredted
me to ftrike into it immediately, faying, that by
following that route, I fhould certainly fall in with
the Britifh army. He then rode away, and I fol
lowed his advice, and proceeded for fome time
through the wood without interruption ; for, though
I did not implicitly believe the affertion, that Hyat
Sahib

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDI,*. 23&
Sahib "meant to have cut me off, I deemed it pru
dent to avail myfelf of the opportunity which of-*-
fered to effedt my efcape, apprehending a worfe fate
than death, namely, being fent prifonfer to Serin^
gapatam," Finding himfelf fairly extricated, Capt. Caiiip-
bell began to examine his fitualjon, and torefledl
on the different converfations which had paffed be
tween Hyat Sahib and him, and on the condudt of
the jemadar previous to his being put in irons. He
recolledted the information he had from time to
time received, touching the jemadar's difpofition,
Hyder's death, Tippoo Sahib's charadter and avow
ed hatred of Hyat, and the nature of the Inhabi
tants, He moreover took into confideration, that
his own ftrength was impaired, his eonftitution un
dermined; and that his profpedls in India, in point
of fame or emolument, could only be promoted by
fome extraordinary exertion, or fome hazardous en>.
terprize. The refult of the whole was, a determina
tion on his part to return back to the fort, and ven
ture an attempt to perfuade the jemadar to offer pro-
pofals for an accomodation to General Matthews,
and to make him the inftrument of the negociation.
In purfuance of this determination, he returned;
at about fix o'clock in the evening he re-entered the
fort, and proceeded to the palace of the jemadar, where»

fi3S ADVENTURES IN AW '
where, defiring an audience, he was admitted. At
the very firft fight of the jemadar, he could per
ceive in his appearance .all the mortification of fal
len power. He received our traveller with a gloo
my countenance, in which there was more of
thoughtful fadnefs "than of yindidtive fury. After a
minute's filence, however, he faid to him, " Well,
Sir! you have heard, I fuppofe, that the Englifli
army are in poffeffion of the GhailtS', and doubtlef^
know that the cuftoms of this country authorife my
proceeding againft you with the utmoft rigour."
Here he paufed for a few moments ; then proceed
ed thus: " Neverthelefs, in confideration of your
family ; in confideration of the regard I have for
a lorig time conceived for you, from obferving your
condudt and ftridt adherence to truth in anfwering
all my queftions, and ftill more ofl accouril? of the
fufferings which you have fuftained with fortitude,
I will alloW'yoa to efcape : haffe you, tiien, awiiy
¦ — fly from this fort diredtly — be gone!" Then
waving his hand as a fignal for him to depart, avert
ed his face from him, and looked another way.
¦ The Captain thought' this a .very favourable op
portunity for his intended purpofe, and intreated the
jemadar- to hear him while he faid a few words, of
perhaps more moment to him than to himfelf. He
again turned, and, nodding affent, while his eye
Jjefpoke, impatient curiofity, the Captain proceeded,
. ' ¦ , " And

OVERLAND JOURNEV TO INDIA. 239
« And, firft," he fays, " I expreffed, in the ftrongeft
terms I was able, die high fenfe I entertained of the
favourable reception I met with when 1 firft came
to the fort ; affuring him, that I fliould never forget
that kindnefs he fhewed me on that occafion, and
that in my confcience I imputed all the fufferings
t had undergone wholly to orders which he had
been obliged to execute, and not to any want of
humanity in himfelf Here I perceived the clouds
which had overfpread his countenance begin gra
dually to difperfe, and with the greater confidence
proceeded to fay, that if he would condefcend to
give me a patient hearing, and not take my holdnefs
amifs, I would venture to intrude upon him with
my advice. At this he flared at me with a look of
furprife — paufed ; then faid, that he authorifed me
to fpeak whatever I pleafed ; continuing, in a tone
of' gentle melancholy, " But of what ,ufe Can your
advice be to me now.?''
" Having thus obtained his permiffiori, I began
by complimenting him on his great talents and tem
per in governing ; on Ills fidelity, zeal, and attach
ment to Hyder; and on the ¦mild and beneficent ufe
which he was acknowledged to have nlade of the
unbounded power, vefted in him by .that great
Prince, which was the more extraordinary, con
fidering hOw many examples he had to juftify him
in a contrary pradtice. I remitided him, however, that

23-8 ADVENTURES IN AN
that circumftances were at prefent widely different
from weat they then were ; that he had now got a
very different fovereign to ferve; that he had no
longer the tender father (for fp Hyder might have
been confidered to him) but Tippoo Sultan, now the
mafter, once the rival, whofe meafures he had al
ways oppofed, againft whom^he had once laid a
moft feriouScharge, and who, confidering the firm
nefs of his nature, could not be reafonably fuppofed
to have forgiven him ; audi hinted,' that whatever
external appearance of regard Tippoo might from
the political neceffity of the moment affume* his
temper, and the fpirit of Afiatic policy, were too
well known to leave a doubt remaining, that fo far
from continuing him (Hyat) in the fame power and
autiiority which he enjoyed during the life of his
father Hyder, he would, on the contrary, proceed
againft him with rigpur and cruelty. ' '-n ¦ >
" Here I perceived the jemadar invpluntarily
npddiri^ his" head in a manner which, thpugh not
intended for my ipbfervati on, denoted internal
affent-: afid was convinced, thati had exadtly fallen
in with the current of his own thoughts. No vfOti-
deir, indeed, they fhould be, his fentiments; for '
they; had.long been the fentiments of all: perfons
who had. known the -circumftances pf the 'Nabob's
family. ,. .' - '' ¦•:.Ii;- ,•:::" ;: : [ ,r Tu'!
,'(.: -...J ¦ .. .y^.^v., . ,---l--r  ;'
" Having

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 239
"Having, therefore, gone as far on that point
as Iconceived to be neceffary to awaken the mind of
Hyat to the precarioufnefs, or rather danger, of his
fituation with Tippoo, I painted to him, in the
ftrongeft colours I was mafter of, the humanity,
the fidelity, the bravery and generofity of the Eng
lifli, which, I faid, were fo univerfafly acknow-"
ledged, that even their worft enemies bore tefti-
mony to them : and I affured him, that if, inftead
of making an unavailing oppofitlon to them, he
would throw himfelf with confidence upon their
protedtion, and become their friend, he would not
only be continued in his ftation, power and autho
rity, and fupported as heretofore, but made a much
greater man, with ftill greater fecurity than be
fore. " This was the general fcope of my arguments
with him : but there were many more which fug
gefted themfelves at the -time, though I cannot now
remember them. I enforced tiiem with all the
power I had : they were fupported by the acknow
ledged charadter for generofity of the Englifli, and
ftill more by Hyat's apprehenfions of Tippoo ; and
they had their effedt. That very night he autho-^
rifed me to go to the Britifli general: and, though
he would not commit.himfelf by fending propofals
in writmg, he confented to receive them from the
general, and promifed to wait for my return till
dav-

-24,0 ADVENTURES IN A-tt,
day-light the, next mortimg; adding, that if I did
not appear by that time, he would go off with his
family and treafure to fome other place, and fet the
town, powdef-magazinej and ftore-houfes. on fire,
leaving a perfon of diftinguifhed charadter to de
fend the citadel or inner fort, which was ftrong,
with a deep ditch, and mounted with many pieces
of cannon, and fend imraediate intelligence to an
army of fix thoufand horfe and ten thoufand infan
try, who were at that time on their road from Se-
ringapatam, tohaften their progrefs, and make them
advance with all poffible rapidity: and he further
obferved, that as Tippoo himfelf would come to
the immediate protedtion .of his country', and, if
once 'Come while the Englifh army remained in the
open field, would give them caufe to repent tkeii
temerity, there was no time to be loft.
,' , , 1 ¦ --
" Accompanied by a perfonwhohad officiated
as interpreter between the jemadar and me, and
whofe good offices and influence with Hyat,
which were very great, I had heen previoufly lucky
ienoughito fecure, I fat off at ten o'clock , at, night,
on horfeback, to the Britifh army. My conipa-
-nlon was in high fpirits when we fet out from the
fort ; but as we proceeded, he expreffed great ap
prehenfion of beingfhot on approaching the camp,
and earneftly entreated itie to fleep at achoreltry,
which lay in our way, tiU imorning. -His terror muft,

OVERLAND JOtTRNBY TO INDIA; 241
muft have been great, indeed, to induce him to
make fuch a propofal, as he knew very well that
we had pledged ourfelves to be back by dawn the
next day. I rallied him upon his fears, and eii-t
deavoured to perfuade him there was not the fmall
eft danger, as I knew how to anfwer the out-pofts,
when they fhould challenge us, in fuch a manner
as to prevent theic firing. As we advanced to the
camp, however, his trepidation increafed ; and
when we approached the fentries, I was obliged to
drag him along by force. 1'hen his fears had- very
nearly produced the danger he dreaded (the almoft
invariable effedt of cowardice), for the feiitry next
to us, hearing the ruftling noife, let off his piece,
and was retreating, when I had the good fortune to
make him hear me. My companion, alarmed at
the noife of the mufket, fell down in a paroxyfm
of terror, from which it was fome time before he
was completely recovered. The fentry who had
fired, coming up, condudted us to a place where
other fentries were pofted, one of whom accompa
nied us to a guard, from whence we were brought
to the grand guard, and by them conduced to die
General."

M CHAPTER

242 ADVENTURES IN AW

CHAPTER THE ELEVENTH.

MEETING WITH GENERAL MATHEWS.  CAPT.
CAMPBELL RETURNS TO THE FORT WITH
A COWL, AND DELIVERS IT TO THE J^IMA-
DAR.  LEADS GENERAL MATHEWS INTO
THE FORT, AND PRESENTS HIM TO THE JE
MADAR.  ENGLISH FLAG HOISTED.  CAPT.
CAMPBELL SETS OFF FOR BENGAL. — ; UN*
ABLE TO PROCEED. — ^LETTER FROM GENE
RAL MATHEWS.— PROCEEDS IN AN OPEN
BOAT FOR ANJENGO.  STOPPED BY SICK-
,NESS AT MANGALORE.  TELLICHERRY. —
ANJENGO. — TRAVAN^CORE.  THE DANCING
GIRLS,—- PALAMCOTAH.  MADURA.  RE
VOLT OF ISIF CAWN.  TRITCHINOPOLY;—
¦TANJORE.  BURNING ALIVE OF GENTOO
WOMEN WITH THE DEAD BODIES OF THEIR
HUSBANDS,  NEGAPATNAM.  HE LEAVES
NEGAPATNAM,  IS TAKEN BY A FRENCH
FRIGATE,  HORRIBLE REFLECTIONS,  AD
MIRAL SUFFREIN.  CHARACTER OF TIP
POO SAHIB.  ESCAPES, AND ARRIVES AT
MADRAS.

N<

OT lefs pleafed than furprifed was our travel
ler to find, that the commander of this gallant and
fuccefsful littie army was General Mathews, an
old friend of his father's, and a perfon with whom

OVERLAND JOVZHtTt TO INDIA, 243
he himfelf had ferved in the cavalry foon after he
entered the army. Wheji he arrived, the General
was faft afleep upon the bare ground in a choreltry.
His dubafh, whofe name was Snake, recolledted
Capt. Campbell immediately, and was almoft as
much frightened at his appearance at firft, as the-
interpreter was at the fliot of the fentry ; for it was
full five months fince his hair and beard had been
both ftiaved at the fame time, during which period
a comb had never touched his head. He had no
hat — no ftockings — was clad in a pair of very
ragged breeches, a fhirt which was fo full of holes
that it refembled rather a net than a web of cloth,
and a waiftcoat which had been made for a man
twice his fize — while his feet were defended from
the ftones only by a pali of Indian flippers. Snake
as foon as he was able to conquer his terror, and
ftop the loquacious effufions of aftonifhment
brought the Captain to the General, wh^ they
awoke with great difficulty ; but, on his difcover-
ing our traveller, he expreffed great pleafure and
furprife; for, though he had heard of his imprifon
ment at Bidanore, he did not expedl to have had
his company fo foon.
Having ftated to General Mathews the nature
and objeft of his miffion, and related to him what
had happened in the fort, the General inftantiy faw
the great advantages that muft accrue from fuch an
^ 2 arrange-

244 ADVENTURES-IN AN
arrangement-^-^ntered into a, full difeuffion of the
bufinefs-^fettied with hinji the plap to be purfued in
." either cafe of Hyat Sahib's acceding to or diflenting
from the terms he propofed to offer ; and in lefs
than an hour after his arrival, Capt. Campbell was
difpatched Ipafik to the fort in the General*^ palan^
quin, widi a cowl from him, fignlfying that the je-s
madar Hy^t Sahib's power and infl;uence fhould not
be leffened if he would quietly furrender up the
• fort. Before his departure, the General expreffed,
in the wafmeft terir^s, liis approbation of t-he Cap
tain's condudt ; and added, that cpnfidering the im--
portance pf the , fort, the extenfive influence of
Hyat Sahib, arid the s^dvantages that might be d&s
rived, fronj his expedience and abilities^ goupled
with the ep,feeble4 folate of his army, the lienefits of
."" fuch a treaty ((pa^cely a^Riitte.d of calculation,
No-rwiTHSTANDiNG the flattering clrcumftan-!
ces witW whifh his prefent purfuit was attended^
Capt. Campbell could not help, as he returned to
Hydernagur, fefUng fome uneafy fenfations, arifing
from the imi^edi^te nature of the bufinefs, and from •
his knowledge of the falthlefs. difpofition, of AfiaT
tics, and the little difficulty they find 'in violating
any moral pripjclple,> if it happens to clafh with their
intereft, or if a breach of it promifes any advantage.
He confi.dered th^t it was by no means impoffible,
that fom^ refoli^tioja a,dverfe tp his. projedt might have

CVERtANb jbUkNEV fo INDIA. 2-l5
have been adopted in his abfcence, and that the je
madar's policy might lead him to make his deftruc-
tion a fort of propitiation for his former offences*
and to fend him and the cowl together to Tippoo,
to be facrificed to his refentment. Thefe thoughts
*cem to have made a deep impreffion on his mind,
but were again effaced by -the refledlion, that a
laudable meafure, once begun, ought to be perfe-
vercd in, and that the accomplifhing a plan of fuch
importance and incalculable public utility, might
operate ftill further by example, and produce con
fequences of which it was impoffible at the prefent
to form a conception, Thefe, and a variety of fuch
fuggeftlons, entirely overcame the fcruples and
fears of the danger ; and he once more entered the
fort of Hydernagur, At this time the Britifh troops
were (by detaching a part with Colonel Macleod,
to get round the fort, and attack it in rear, and by
death and ficknefs) reduced to Ids than four hun
dred Europeans knd feven hundred Sepoys, with
out' ordnance.
When Capt. Campbell delivered tH'e C6wl to the
jemadar, he read it, and feemed pleafed, but talked
of, four or five days to confider of an anfwer, and
feemed-to be wavering in his mind, and labouring
under the alternate iiMpulfes of oppofite motives
and contradidory paffions. Our traveller faw
that this was a crifis of more iriiportance than
M 3 any

246 ADVENTURES IN AN
any other pf his life— -a crifis in which delay, irrc-
folution, or yielding to the protradtive expedient^'
of Hyat, might be fatal. To prevent, therefore, the
effedts of either treachery or repentanCe, he took
advantage of tiie general confufion and trepidation
which prevailed in the fort — colledted the Aroot
fepoys, who, to the number of four hundred, were
prifoners at large — ^pofted them at .the gates, pow
der-magazines, and other critical fituatlonsj and,
having taken thefe and other precautions, went out
to the General, who, according to the plan concert
ed between them, had puihed on with the advanced
guard ; and, condudting him into the fort with
hardly an attendant, brought him ftraight to the je
madar's prefence while he yet remained in a ftate
ot iiidecifion and terror. General Mathews, in his
fiift interview with the jemadar, did every thing to
re-affure him, and confirmed with the moft folemn
afft verations the terms of the cowl ; in confequence
of which, the latter acceded to the propofitions
contained In it, and the Britifh colours for the firft
time waved upon the walls of the chief fort of the
country of Bidanore.
"Having thus contributed to put this impor
tant garrifon, with all its treafures, which certainly
were immenfe, into the hands of the Company,
without the lofs of a fingle man, or even the ftrik
ing of a fingle blow, my exultation," fays Capt.
Camp-

OVERLAND JOURNEV TO INDIA, 24t
Campbell, " was inconceivable; and, much though
I wanted money, I can with truth aver, that ava
rice had not even for an inftant the leaft fhare in
my fenfations. 'Tis true, the confcioufnefs of my
fervices affured me of a reward ; but how that re
ward was to accrue to me, never once was the fub
jedt of my contemplation — much lefs did 1 think
of availing myfelf of the prefent circumftances to
obtain it. How far my delicacy on the occafion
may be cenfured or approved; I cannot tell; but if
I got nothing by it, I have at leaft the confolation
to refledt that I efcaped calumny, which was with,
a moft unjuftifiable and unfparing hand lavifhed on
others. The General, it is true, promifed that I
fliould remain with him till he made fome arrange
ments ; and Hyat Sahib offered, on his part, to
make me, through the General, a handfome pre
fent. The General, however, fuddenly became
diffatisfied with me; and I neither got Hyat Sahib's
prefent, nor ever received ven a rupee of the vaft
fpoil found tliere."
When Hydernagur was taken poffeffion of,
Hyat Sahib immediately iffued orders to the forts of
Mangalore, Deokull, Ananpore, and fome others
in that country, to furrender to the Britifh arms.
Some obeyed the mandate; but thofe three refifted,
and were reduced by General Mathews. Ren
dered incautious by fuccefs, however, our army, it
M 4 feems.

248 ADVENTURES IN AN
feems, became lefs vigilant, and Tippoo afterwards
retook Hydernagur, In dlrodl breach of the capi
tulation, he made the garrifon prifoners, treated
them with a degree of inhurnamity Which chills the
blood even to think of, and in the end forced Ge
neral Mathews to take poifon in prifon I
Capt, Campbell, who for -his fervices, and
from the fiiendfhip General Mathews had formerly.
iiad for his father, naturally expefied marks of con-.
fidence and favour, was fuddenly ordered away
with difpatches from the General to the govern-
irients of Madras and Bengal.
DuniNG his journey, which was through the
contry pf Tippoo Sahib, he had only- fix fepoys
to condudl him : yet, fuch was the univerfal panic
tiiat had feized all claffes and diftlndlions of peo
ple at the progrefs of the Britifh arras in that quar
ter, that he met only a few fcattered fepoys, who
were fo badly wounded that it is fuppofed they were
unable to travel — the villages throughout being
completely abandoned 'by all their inhabitants. -
The fudden change of diet, which phyficlans
fay is dangerous from bad to good, as well as the
reverfe, confpiring with the.'mortification he felt at
feeing things going on fo very contrary to -what he
wiflied, and what he had reafon to expedi, had a-
raofl;

OVERLAND JOURN-EY TO INDIA. 21!)
moft fudden and alarming effedt upon our travL-Uer's
eonftitution; andhewa's feized vn the road with
the moft excruciating, internal pains, which were
fucceeded by a violent vomiting- of blood. At
length, with great difficulty, he reached Cunda
pore, wliere the commanding officer, and all about
him, did every thing in their power to afford him
affiftance and comfort under his miferies, -wliich
increafed every hour rapidly. He felt (he fay.s) as
if his infide was utterly decayed, and all Its func
tions loft in debility : at the fame time his head '
feemed deranged. He could fcarcely comprehend
the meaning of what was faid : lifiing up his head
was attended with agonizing pain ; and If he had
any power of thought. It was to confider himfelf as
approaching faft to diffolution. He had the fenfe,
however, to fend to General Mathews, to ac
quaint him with his Indifpofition, and utter inabi
lity to proceed with his difpatches. To this he re
ceived the following letter :
" Bidanore,^ Feb. 3^,' 119S,
Dear Campbell,
" I am forry to, hear that you have been un
well. Should your indifpofition Increafe, or con
tinue, fo as to render you unable to purfue your
journey with the neceffary expedition, I beg that
you will forward the letters to Anjengo by a boat,
M 5 -with

250 - ADVENTURES IN AN
with diredllons to Mr. Hutchlnfon to fend thera
per tappy [poft, or exprefs] to Palamcotah, andfo
on to Madras.
" I fhall hope to hear of your recovery, and that
¦you'll have gone tp fea.
" Your's very truly,
" Richard Mathews."
The receipt of this letter induced him, bad as he
was, he fays, to rnake one other exertion; and he
refolved, though he fliould die on the way, not to
leave any thing which, even by malicious conftruc-
tion, could be made a fet-off againft his claims. He
therefore hired an open boat to carry him along tlie '
coaft to Anjengo, and fet out with every profjpedl
of having the virulence of his diforder increafed, by
_being expofed In an uncovered veffel to the damp of
the night air, and the raging heat of the fun in the
day, and of being arrefled by the hand of death in
his way. By the time he had got down the coaft as
far as Mangalore, his complaint increafed to an
alarming height, and he became fpeeehlefs, and
unable to ftand. Fortunately there happened to be
a Company's veffel then lying at anchor off that
place, the captain of which invited him to remain
on board -with him, ftrenuoufly advifmg that he
fliould give up the thoughts of proceeding immedi
ately on his voyage to Anjengo, which he could not

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 251
not poffibly furvive, and to forward the difpatches
by another hand. The furgcon of the fliip joining
the captain in opinion that he could not furvive if
he attempted it, and his own judgment coinciding
with their's, he at length confented, and remained
there. Tranquillity, kind treatment, and good
medical affiftance, produced, in the fpace of two
or three weeks, fo material a change in his health,.
that he was In a condition to avail himfelf, at the
expiration of that time, of a fhip bound to Anjen
go, and which offering the additional inducement
of touching at Tellicheiry, determined him to take
his paffage in liei. When he arrived at Tellicherry,
and during his ftay there, the great attention fliewn
him by Mr, Freeman, the chief of that place, re-
ftored him to a great fhare of health and fpirits ; and
here a very fingular circumftance occurred.
One day a veffel arrived, and perceiving a boat
coming on fhorie from her, Mr. Freeman and Capt.
Campbell walked down to the beach, to make the
ufual inquiries — fuch as, where fhe Came from ?
what news fhe brought ? &c. &c. As foon as the
boat touched the fliore, a gentleman leaped out of
it, whofe perfon feemed familiar to our traveller :
upon his near approach, he difcovered that it was
Mr. Brodey, a gentieman who had been kind
M 5 enough

252

ADVENTURES .IN AN

enough to take upon him the office of his attorneys
upon his leaving India fome years before — " not
my attorney"' fays he, " in the ordinai-y acceptation
of that word, but a liberal and difiiiterefted friend,
who obligingly undertook the management of my
affairs in my abfence, without the fmalleft hope of
advantage, or rather under circumftances which
ferv'ed as preludes to further obligations, I was
certainly pleafed and furprifed to fee him ; but liis
aftonifhment to fee me amounted almoft to a dif
truft of his eye-fight : he, had received fuch indubi-
table proofs of my death, that my fudden appear
ance on his landing, at the firft rufh of thought,
impreffed him with the notion of a d'eceptlo vlfus.
My identity, however, was too pofitive for refift
ance; and his wonder melted down into cordial fa--
tisfa<Stion, and congratulations on my fafety. He
then took out a pocket account-book, in which, for
fecurity againft accidents, he kept accounts-cur
rent, written in a brief manner, and fhewed' me
mine, fettled almoft to the very day, upon which was
trarifcribcd a copy of a letter he had received, and
which he thought -was a teftimony of my death. So,
Cutting out the account, and prefenting it to me, he
expreffed, in die moft cordial and han-dfome man
ner, his joy that it was into my own hands he had at
laft had an opportunity to deliver it, Tliis gentle- •
man Is now in tlils kingdoi'n , and too well known -
to need rrty panegyric. Suffice it to fay, that «&"
England,'

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA, 25.?
England, as well as in India, he has always enjoyed
the efteem and refpedt of his acquaintance, to as
great an extent as any other perfon I know."
Our traveller again embarked to proceed on his
voyage, and in due time arrived at Anjengo, with
out any accident befalling him.
Leaving Anjengo, he fet out for Madras, dcJ-
figning to go all the way by land, a journey of near
eight hundred miles. He accordingly ftruck through
the kingdom of Travancore, whofe fovereign was
in alliance with the Englifh ; and had not long
entered the territories of the Nabob of Arcot, be
fore Major Macneal, an old friend of his, and com
mandant of a fort of that diftridt, met him, preced
ed by a troop of dancing girls, who encircled his
palanquin, dancing around him until he entered
the Major's houfe.
It would be difficult to give the reader an ade-*
quate .notion of thefe dancing girls. Trained up
from their infancy in the pradtice of the moft grace
ful motions, in the moft artful difplay of perfonal
fymmetry, and the moft wanton, allurements, they
dance in fuch a ftyle, and twine their limbs and
bodies into fuch poftures, as bewitch their fenfes, and
extort applaufe and admiration, where in ftridtnefs
difapprobation . is due: nor -is their agility infe rior

254f adventures in an
rior to the graces of their movements — though
they do not exert it in the fame fkipping way that
our 'ftage dancers do, but make it fubfervient to
the elegance, and, indeed, grandeur, of their aio
They are generally found in troops of fix or eight,
attended by muficians, whofe afpedt and drefs are
as uncouth and fqualid, as the founds tiiey produce
under the name of mufic are inelegant, harfh, and
diffonant. To this mufic, from which meafure as
much as harmony is excluded, they dance moft won
derfully, adapting their4lep tp the perpetual change
of the time, accompanying it with amorous fongs,
while the correfpondent adtion of their body and
limbs, the wanton palpitation and heaving of their
exquifitely formed bofoms, and the amorous, or
rather lafcivlous expreffion of their countenance,
excite in the fpedtators emotions not very favoura
ble to chaftity. Thus they continue to adt^ till, by
the warmth of exercife and imagination, they be
come feemingly frantic with eeftacy, an.d finking
down motionlefs with fatigue, throw themfelves
into the moft alluring attitudes that ingenious vice
and voluptuoufnefs can poffibly devife
That fuch inGltements^ to vice fhould make a
part of the fyftem of any fociety, is to be lamented:
yet, at all ceremonies and great occafions, whether
of religious worfhip or domeftic enjoyment, they
make a part of the entertainment ; and the altar ef
tlieir

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. S8S
their gods, and the purity of the marriage rites, are
alike polluted by the introdudtion of the dancing
girls. The impurity of this cuftom, however, va-
niflies in India, when compared with the hideous
pradtice of introducing dancing boys.
The Major, after having entertained Capt.
Campbell in the moft hofpitable manner, accompa
nied him to Palamcotah, whence he continued his
route through Madura, a country rendered re
markable by the revolt of the famOhs Ifif Cawn,
who made a bold and well-condudled attempt to
eredt himfelf into the fovereignty of that province,
independent of the Nabob of the Carnaticj in whofe
fervice he was.
Passing through Madura, he arrived at Trlt
chlnopoly, where he. met Mr. Sullivan, the refi
dent of Tanjore, who furnlfhed him with a letter
to Mr, Hippefley, his deputy at Tanjore, from whom
he received many marks of civility. At that place
our traveller had the pleafure of meeting a gentk-
man with whom he had been at college, and foy
whom he had always entertained a great efteem ;
this was Col, Fullarton, who honoured him with
the care of a letter to Lord Macartney, then
governor of Madras, an extradt of which we fliall
here give, as it applied to our traveller's bufinefs
particularly, " Tanjore,

256 ADVRNTURES iN AN
" Tanjore, Mhrc'h 20, nsS'*
" My Lord,
" I ha d the honour to .write to your Lordfhip
on the 8th by Captain Hallam, who carried from
hence very large packets to you. The opportunity
of Captain Campbell tempts me to trouble , your
Lordfhip, merely to inform you, that all my letters
from Bidanore afcribe in a great degree the fuc
cefs of our arms! in that quarter, and the romantic
revolution effedted there, to the influence he had
with Hyat Sahib, and to' the propofals of furrender
which he fuggefted, and tranfadted with the general
and jemadar. 1 think it neceffary that you, mt
Lord, may know hovy much the public is indebted
to Capt, Campbell, whofe g6pd fortune in this affair
has only been equalled by his good condudl. He
is perfedtly acquainted with the ftate of affairs on
the other coaft, and has feen and hear<J much oi
our tranfadtions here ; fo that no perfon Can give a
more clear or unbiaffed view of events."
Before he left Tanjore, he had an opportunity
of being an eye-wltnefs to that extraordinary and
horrid ceremony, the-burning of a Gentoo woman
with the body of her hufband. As this Is a point
which has occafioned 'much fpeculation and fome
doubt among Europeans, we fhall trarifcrlbe Capt.
Campbell's account of the ceremony-j as minuted
down at the time it bappenened. - 1/ ^;
Defcrip-

OVERLAN-n JOURNEY TO INDIA. 257
Defcription of the Ceremony of the Gcntoo IVomen
burning 'themfelves with the Bodlts of their Huf
bands. ^
" This day  , I went to fee a Gentoo
woman refign herfelf to be burned along with the
corpfe of her deceafed hufband,
" The place fixed upon for this tragic fcene
V as a fmall iflet on the bank of one of the branches
of the river Cavery, about a mile to the northward
of the fort of Tanjore
" When I came to the fpot, I found the vic
tim, who appeared to be not above fixteen, fitting
on the ground, dreffed in the Gentoo manner, with'
a white cloth wrapped round her, fome white flow
ers like jeffamins hanging round her neck, and
fome of them hanging from her hair. There were
about twenty womeii fitting on their hams round
her, holding a white handkerchief, extended hori
zontally over her head, to fliade her from the fun,
which was exceffively hot, it being then about noon.
" At about twenty yards from where flie was
fitting, arid facing her, there were feveral bramins
bufy in conftrudling a pile with billets of fire-wood:
the pile was about eight feet long, and four broad.
They firft began by driving fome upright flakes
into the ground, and then built up the middle to a-
bout the helglit of three feet and a half with billets
of wood.
" Th£

2S8 ADVENTURES IN AN
" The dead hufband, who, from his appearance,
feemed to be about fixty years of age, was lying
clofe by, ftretched out on a bier, made of bamboo.
canes. Four bramins walked in proceffion three
times round the dead body, firft in a diredtion con
trary to the fun, and afterwards other three times
in a diredlion with the fun, all the while muttering
incantations ; and at each round or circuit they
made, they untwifted, and immediately again twift
ed up, the fmaUlong lock of hair which is left un»
ftiaven at the back of their heads.
" Some other bramins were iri the mean time
employed in fprinkling water out of a green leaf,
rolled up like a cup, upon a fmall heap of cakes of
dry cow-dung, with which the pile was afterwards
to be fet on fire.
" An old braraln fat at the north eaft corner of
the pile upon his hams, with a pair of fpedlacles on
reading, I fuppofe, the Shafter, or their fcriptures,
from a book compofed of Cajan leaves.
" Having been prefent now nearly an hour, I
enquired "when they meant to fet the pile on fire :
they anfwered, in about two hours. As this fpec-
tacle was moft melancholy, and naturally ftruck me
with horror, and as I had only gone there to affure
myfelf of the truth of fuchfacrlfices being made, I
went away towards the fort. After I had gone,

OVERLAI^D JOl-RNEY TO INDIA. '2'j9.
about five hundred yards, they fent fome one to tell
me they would burn immediately ; on which I re
turned, and found the woman had been moved from
where fhe was fitting to the river, where the bra
mins were bathing her. On taking her out of the
¦Waaler, they put fome money In her hand, which fhe
dipped In the river, and divided among the bramins:
flie had then a yellow cloth rolled partially round
her. They put fome red colour, about the fize of a
fix- pence, on tiie center of her forehead, and rub
bed fomething that appeared to me to be clay. She
was then led to the pile, round which flie walked
three times as the fun goes : flie then mounted it at
the north-eaft corner, without any affiftance ; and
fat herfelf down on the right fide of her hufband,
who had been previoufly laid upon the pile. She
then unfcrewed the pins which faftened the jewels
or filver rings on her arms : after fhe had taken
them off, flie fhut them, and fcrewed in the pins
again, and gave one to each of two women who
were ftanding: flie unfcrewed her ear-rings, and
other toys, with great compofure, and divided them
among the women who were witii her. There
feemed to be fome littie fquabble about the diftribu
tion of her jewels, which fhe fettled with great pre -
cifion; and then, falling gently backwards, pulled
a fold of the yellow cloth over her face, turned her
breaft towards her hufband's fide, and laid her right
arm over his breaft; and in this poflure fhe re
mained without moving.
" Just

§60 ADVENTURES iN AS '
" Just before fhe lay down, the bratnihS pu
fome rice in her lap, and alfo foihe into the mouti
arid on the loiig grey beard of her hufband : thel
then fprinkled fome water 611 the head, breaft, am
feet of both, and tied them gently together rouni
the middle with a flender bit of rope : they thei
raifed, as it were, a little wall of wood lengthway;
On tvvo fides of the pile, fo as to raife it above th(
level of the bodies ; and then put crofs pieces, fo a
to prevent the billets of wood from preffing 01
them : they then poured on the pile, above when
,the woman lay, a potful of fomething that appeafe'
to me to be oil ; after this they heaped on mon
wood, to the height of about four feet above when
the bodies were built in ; fo that all I nOw faW Wa
a fiack of fire-wood.
" One of the bramins, I obferved, ftood at th(
end of the pile next the woman's head — was callmj
to her through the interftices of the wood, anc
laughed feveral times during the converfation
Laftly, _tliey overfpread the pile with Wet ftraw
and tied it'on with ropes.
" A BRAMiN then took a handfulof ftraw
which he fat on fire at the little heap of burninj
cakes of Cow-dung; and, ftanding to windward 0
the pile, he let the wind drive the flame from thi
ftraw till it catched the pile. Fortunately, at thi

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 261
inftant, tlie wind rofe much higher than it had been
any part of the day ; and in an inftant the flames
pervaded the whole pile, and it burnt with great
fury. I liftened a few feconds, but could not dif-
tinguifli any flirieks, which might. perhaps, be o-w-
ing to my being then to -^indward. In a very few
minutes tiie pile became a heap of aflies.
" During the whole time of this procefs, which
lafted from firft to laft above two hours before we
loft fight of the woman, by her being built up in
tiie_ middle of the pile, I kept my eyes almoft con
ftantly upon her ; and I declare to God that I could
not perceive, euher in her countenance pr limbs,
the leaft trace of either horror, fear,' or even hefi
tation : her countenance was perfedlly compofed
and placid ; and flie was not, I am poffitlve, either
intoxicated or ftupefied. J'rom feveral circum
ftances, I thought the bramins exulted in this hefl-
ifli facrifice, and did not feem at all difpleafed that
Europeans fliould be witneffes of it."
From Tanjore our traveller proceeded tp Nega
patnam, which had been taken from the Dutch by
the Company's troops, and where Mr, Cochran, an
old friend of his, was chief. /
The communication by land between Nega
patnam and Madras being interrupted by the ene
my's

262 ¦ ADVENTURES IN AN '
my's troops, he embarked in a veflels, and proceed
ed thither by fea.
" Hitherto," fays Capt. Campbell, " every
ftep of rriy journey has been marked by Occuren
ces fo unexpedted, and accidents fo' extraordinary,
that I fhould feel fome repugnance to relate them,
.left my veracity fhould be called in queftion, were
they not attefted by fo many living perfons of re-
fpedtabillty, and written documents of authority
on record." Were one to confider thera merely.
as the offspring of fidtiou, they would perhaps'have
intereft enough to catch the attention ; but, view
ing them as fadts, they borrow, from their number
and rapid-fucceffion, as well as from their fingula
rity, fe> rnuch of the complexion of imaginary ad
venture, that the combination cannot, we think,
fail to intereft the- minds as well as the feelings of
all who hear or read them. >
Arrived at Negapatnam, v.?ithln a fhort run
of Madras, the reader, will naturally fuppofe that
adventure was at an end, and that fortune, fatigued
by the inceffant exertion of her caprice, might have
left him to proceed the fhort refidue of- his way
without further moleftation. It, however, fefl out
otherwife : fhe had marked him as her game, and
refolved to worry him to the laft moment ; for, as
• they

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIAi 263
they approached Madras, they were chafed by a
French frigate, and taken near Fort St, George.
This appeared to our traveller the greateft mif-
fortune he had yet met witii, and likely to be the
moft fatal in its confequences. In order to explain
this, we muft recur to certain circumftances con
nedted with the hiftory of the times.
Monsieur Suftrein, the French Admiral, hav
ing fome time prior to this a number of Britifh pri
foners In his poffeffion, whom he found it extreraely
inconvenient to fupport, made a propofal for an
exchange, which, from fome failure in the convey
ance, or ambiguity in the terms of the correfpon
dence, was negledled.
The motives or accidents which gave rife to this
negledt have never been completely developed: but
of the horrid cataftrophe which fucceeded, it Is
hardly poffible that any one but Monfieur Suffreln
himfelf could have had a conception. The fadt is
plainly this; the French admiral having no place
on the coaft where he could fecure his prifoners,
and grieving, as he himfelf fubfequentiy wrote to
Mr. Haftings, to fee the unhappy men, who had
been fix or feven months at fea, dying of the
fcurvy, delivered over the prifoners (to the number
of above three hundred) to Hyder. Their fate af
terwards

2S4 adventures in am -
terwards was fuch- as would harrow vcp. the foui
hear related.

Taking the whole of the. circumftances into oi
glance, it may be judged what the Captain's fee
ings muft have been o.n finding himfelf once more
poiifonier. Hyder Alii, who was, when compar(
with the worft defpots of the European world,
monfter, muft yet be confidered, when put in con
parifon with hia fucceffor Tippoo, as mild at
meifciful. Hyder, from pohcy and hypocrlf
fhewed fome fenity to the pjiifoners who fell ini
his hands, Inftances are known where Britif
captives have broke through the crowd that fui
rounded him into- his prefence for protedtion — vvhe
he has hypocritically feigned anger, threatened tl
perfons who had treated them ifl, reprobated fev<
rity, and fent them off fatisfied for the prefen
Tippoo, on the contrary. Was fo perfedlly favagi
that cr-uelty feemed to be, not only the intern;
habit of his foul, but the gu-Ide of all liis adtion;
the moving principle of his policy, the rule of h
publio condudil, and the fource of his private grat
ficatioHs. From' barbarity fp inflexible to , thofe taken i
the ordlnta-ry cliance of war, -what coukl Cap!
Campbell' expedt if he again fell into his hands .?-
He who had been the inftrument of one of hi

lei governor s uciccnoii — wuo iiaa, uy nis nego-
Ltioiis, contributed to deprive him of a province, >
d, what perhaps might have had greater weight
itli him, robbed him of the gratification of a
;ig-harboured revenge, by putting his enemy
yat Sahib under the protedtion of the Company.
iabolical vengeance never perhaps met with a
bjedi of fuch fublime enjoyment, as the tortur-
g of our traveller would have been to this mon-
:r. Couple this, then, with the fears of Suf-
:in's doing by him as he had already done by the
her Englifli prifoners — and we may judge what
s terror and confternation muft have been at
lling into the hands of the French !
Having ftruch their colours to the French fri-
ite, the Captain ordered thera to follow her, and
5ered to the northward. They obeyed him for
me 'time: at length night fell; and, a frefh and
vourable breeze fortunately aiding the attempt,
ey put about, run for Madras, and luckily dropt
ichor fafely In the roads, " In the efcapes I had
therto had," fays (he Captain, " there was al-
ays fome difagreeable circumftance to alloy the
eafure arifing from them. — In this Inftance, my
y was pure and unqualified; and I looked for-
avd with a reafonable hope that the worft was all

^er.

N CHAPTER.

263 ADVENTURES IN AM

CHAPTER THE TWELFTH.

PASSAGE TO BENGAL.  NEGOCIATION - FOR
HYAT sahib.  CAPT. CAMPBELL HEARS OF
THE SERVANT, HE HAD LOST AT'TRIESTE. 
VIZAGAPATNAM.^— MASULIPATAM. — ARr
RIVES AT MADRAS.  DETERMIN^ES TO PRO
CEED ON HYAT's BUSINESS TO BOMBAY. 
REACHES PALAMCOTAH.  TAKEN SICK.— RE
COVERING, CRAWLS TO ANJENGO, AND
THENCE TO BOMBAY.— RESOLVES TO RETURN
AGAIN 1:0 MADRAS. — ^^ADVENTURE V/lTH A
YOUNG LADY.  SURAT.-^CHTNA, — ARRIVES
AT FALMOUTH, AFTER AN ABSENCE FROM
ENGLAND OF FOUR YEARS AND FIVE DAYS,

.A,

lFTER fo many hazards and hardftiips as he
had undergone, it was a mo'ft pleafing circumftance
to Capt, Campbell to find himfelf In a fociety com
pofed of his oldeft profeflional connedtions, and
warnieft arid fincereft friends: butsthis was a hap
pinefs he could not long enjoy; for, being charged
with a miffion from Hyat Sahib to the Gover
nor-general and Supreme Council, he was con
ftrained to proceed toBengal, and accordingly fet
fail for Calcutta, which he reached in little more than

aVERLANB JOURNEY TO INDIA, 'Zdl
than a week, without encountering any accident,
or meeting a fingle occurrence worth the relation.
Upon his arrival there. Sir John MaCpherfon, who
was In the Supreme Council, gave him a kind invi
tation to live at his houfe, and prefented him to Mr.
Haftings, with whom he entered into a negociation
on behalf of Hyat Sahib, the correfpondence on
which fubjedt is given by Capt. Campbell at length
in tranfcripts of the letters ; but thefe, though
highly honourable to our traveller, we may perhaps
orait in this abridgment without much difappoint
ment to the reader. Suffice it to fay, that the final
refult was, a due encouragement given to the ad-
. vances of Hyat Sahib, and fatisfadtion for the fer
vices he had rendered to the Company's concerns,
Capt. Campbell very gratefully acknowledges
Mr. Hafting's politenefs, and Sir John Macpher-
fon's kindnefs and hofpitality, during his ftay at
Calcutta. While he was at the houfe of the latter, he
happened, in converfation one day with Mr, Ma-
cauley. Sir John's fecretary, to be talking over
fome part of his adventures, and found to his afto
nifhment, that the gentieman had, in his route to
India, accidentally hired the very fervant whom
Capt. Campbell had loft at Triefte by fending him
'. . N -2 - . for

268 ADVENTURES IN AN
\
for letters to Veriicre ; and Mr. Macauley . affured
the Captain, that he had found the man poffeffed of
all the gpod qualities he ..had expedle4 tP Ineet in
him : but the poor fellow had ^iei before the Cap
tain's arrival at Calcutta. '
As the feafon 'in which he was to leave Calcutta
was very unfavourable, for a voyage by fea, aad the
coaft thereabout is one of the moft inhofpitabk in
the world, he fet off by land for Madras, and in his
way ftopped at Vizagapalsnam for a few days witli'
Mr. Ruffel, who was chief that place.
Leaving Vlzagapatnam, he took his route
along the coaft, and arrived at; MafuUpatam, whetie-
he heard rumours of the unfortunate fate of Gene-
tal Mathews. This threw fi*ch a damp upoa his
fpirits;' that aU the hofpitality and kindnefs of Jglr.
^Paniel, the chief, he fays, cpuld fcarcely raifeiihirn
from defpondence ; and on his arrival al.Madrasj
he found the whole amply confirmed.
As Hyat Sahib's affair yet remaitied unfetded, and
Capt. Campbell confidered himfelf in a degree
pledged to obtain hiro fonv^ fatisfedlion fqr his-fer-
xices. in furrenderirig the province of Bidanore, he
determined to proteed to Bombay, , notwithftanding
the difafter of General Mathews, .which-had ei>
tirely cruflied all his pi'ivj^te profpedts in that quar ter,

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO INDIA. 26:*
ter, and to co-operate with Hyat Sahib in fuch
meafures as might yet remain to them for promot
ing the public good. He left Madras, therefore,
and profecuted his jovjrney without any material
interruption until he reached PaUmcotah; where
the chagrin arifing from his various difappoint-
inents, co-operating with fatigue and climate, threw
him into a fit of ficknefs, which confined lilm to
' his bed for five or fix weeks. Upon recovering a
little, he crawled on to Anjengo, where, at the houfe
of Mr. Hutchlnfon, the refident, (who treated him
with great kindnefs), he waited for an opportunity
of getting to Bombay, and during that time laid in
a^ftock of ftrength and fpirits : at length a Europe
fhip touching at Anjengo on her way to Bombay,
he obtained a paffage, and proceeded.
At Bombay he found Hyat Sahib, it having been
deemed expedient to ferid the jemadar away from
Bidanore on the approach of T^PPOo witii his army.
And now, as peace was negoci'ating between the
Englifh and Tippoo, and Capt. Campbell's remain
ing -on the Malabar coaft could be of httle ufe, he
determined to return to the Carnatic. " And here,"
fays he, " I have an incident to add to the nlaiiy
difagreeable occurrences of my life, in which,
with intentions the moft innocent, I was made the
fubjedt of obloquy and unmerited fcandal.
. N 3 • Just

270 ADVENTURER J» AN ,
, " J^sT at the time I was leaving Bombay,:* ypuiig
lady, the daughter pf a perfpn formerly. of high
rank in India, and now a MembeJ' of Parliament,
^ut whofe name it jyvould >s ufjs-jefs to mention,
wiflied to return- to the Carnatic ; and I, ^t thq
requeft of bcrfelf, and another lady ,wirh whejti
(he iived, unguardedly took charge of her during
the journey. Before our departure,. I refl^dfed-UpOn
the (Jifficuiiies and impropriety of this ftep, and
commuaipated my ideas tp the ladies, ' who, inftead
pf liftenir^g to the objedlions I, ftarted, prefrq4« me
to fulfil my promife: I confented, pureljf^ fr.pm
principles of politenefs and good-nature. During
the, fpqrfe of our, journey, fhe unfolded tp me, (^
lii^jjown accord, certain adiS pf crueltjf and injuf-
tice fhe had fuffered frcm her father, at the Ipftiga-
tion of her mother-in-law, with a ftory of her inno-
fei^ce, having fallen, ^^n^ , h^-r reputariQ^f^ jhn^ng
been deftroyed, , by a relation ,of ot^^^-'tedjfj UMSlt
whofe charge fhe was, an^who foa-.that reafon. had
preffcd her departure wifh. me i and atlded, fhe ¦was
fpdii'gu fled with India, thaiij^he dctermiued tp^yij
It, an)d entreated mejtp, aflift .her in tji^ accompliihr
ment of her vyiQ-ies,, I dijfap R^i9^y^^, c in thejinoft
unqu^lifiqd, terms, of her prtjjefa— ;gaye[li«r the beft
and moft difin.terefted advice -7- and, through the
whole .difagreeable tmfinefs which was impeled, u^-
on me, adted merely wjth.a view.to Jiiec Jiqi^ois? a;n4
happinefs ; aud feveral of the moft refpedtable
, , T t ; people

OVERLAND JO-fRNEY TO INDIA. 271
people in Palamcotah, where fhe paffed fome time,
and at Madras, where fhe aftervyards refided, could
atteft the delicacy of my condudt towards her, as
well as the concerns and intereft I took in every
thing that was likely to be of advantage to her,
" This is a fair ftatement pf the matter; and
yet,, on account of it, I was moft infamoufly fcan-
dalized ; and the fcandal reached even the ears of
my father, whom, however, I foon fatisfied on that
head. But that which ftung me to the quick was
the condudl of fome of my own relations (who, if
they even could not juftify or approve, ought at
leaft to have been filent), in becoming the moft
virulent of my detradlors-r-though, when the chat
radier of tiiofe very relations had on former occa
fions beeu. refledled upon, I ftood up and defended
them at the Imminent hazard of my life. Such
condudt appeared to me moft attroclous ; for, whe
ther from affection, felfiflinefs, or pride, I alway?
ftrenuoufly fupported my relations If I heard them
traduced in their abfence — and, when I was not
able to jufrjfy their proceedings, at leaft fuppreffed
the converfation. To a man who h^d uniformly
adted fo, where there even no reciprocation of famir
ly affedtion, mutual juftice demanded different
treatment from that I experienced, which- could
have fprung only from depravity of heart, poverty
9f iiitelledt, and the moft abjea meannefs pf fpirit. And

272' ' aDven'turesIin an
And what is remarkable on this, as well as on other'
occafions, thofe who had been under the g.reateft
obligation to my father and myfelf, wete the moft:
inveterate. " On thedeath of my father, looking over his pa
pers in the prefence of the deputy fherlff of Argyll,
and three other gentlemen, we met with a letter on
the fubjedt from the young lady's father to mine,'
refledting in a grbfs manner on my charadter. I
diredtly wrote to that gentieman, explaining the.
whole affair, and demanding juftice to be done to
my reputation. Upon an ecclairciffemeht of the
matter, he wrote to me a complete apology, ac
knowledged that he had adted on that occafion
through mifreprefentation, and had top eafily given"
credit to ill-founded reports; and faying, that as the
letter in queftion had," by the perufal of the deputy
Iherift' and other genticmen, iri fome iricafu'fe be
come a matter of public notoriety, he thought it
incumbent on him to make that apology, and to ex-
prpfs his fincere 'regret for any detriment I might
have fuftained by his yielding unguardedly to a fud
den impulfe of paffion, caufed, as 'he was then pfir'-
fedtly convinced, by mrfinformation.
*' Th-us- was my charadter at -once deared of a
calutnriy which the induftricuk villainy of a few had
'-"¦-'" ' :¦' *'" •' ¦• ' : ¦ -i -' com-

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO IKDI.\.^ -21:''
contrived to propagate through every fpot of La.r;'\-
where 1 was known."

This ftory may ferve as an inftrudtive leffon to
die reader, to avoid, in the fiift inftance,, any con-
nedlion with women that In "tiie very probable
courfe of things can lead to private adts of confi
dence : they are at beft indifcreet — tend, as in this,
cafe, to make a man a dupe — and never fail to lead
to fcandal and reproach. Great alfo is the impro
priety and hazard of committing our tiioughts in-
cautioufly to paper; it frequently ending, as in
this inftance, in mortification and regiret.
Before quitting entirely the Malabar coafl, our
traveller took a trip to Surat, -where he was receiv
ed in a friedidly manner by Mr. Seioa.
His journeys by land in India after his fhip
wreck, independent of long voyages by fea, amount
ed, as he affures us, to more than three thoufand
miles. After getting back to Madras, his health
being materially injured, he refolved*fD return to
England: but yet, having feen almoft all the Com
pany's poffeffions, he felt a cutiofity to vifit China,
and determined to make that his wa!y. To render
this route more agreeable to him. Lord Macartoey,
in addition to his other favours, gave him the fol
lowing

27't adventures in an
lowing handfonie letter of introdudlion to Mr. Pi-
gou, the Company's chief fupercargp at Canton :
" Fort St. George, July'2i, 1784,
" Sir,
" This letter will be delivered to you by Capt.
Donald Campbell, of this eftabllfhriient — a gentie
man. who has fignalized himfelf on many occafion^,
but more particularly by his ability and addrefs in
accomplifhing the furrender of the fort of Bidanore,
at which place he had been long a prifoner. His
ill ftate of health contradted there, renders a voyage
to China, perhaps to Europe, abfolutely neceffary.'
Should he remain any time at yoUr fettlement, ' I
fliall. be much obliged to you for any attention and
civility fhewn to him ; and I fliall ¦ be happy, on
any occafion you may afford me, of returning your
polite attention to an officer of fo much merit as
Captain Campbell, and of proving how much I am,
•' ¦ ¦¦¦^ " Sir, ¦ '.^,^'
" Your mdft obedient arid ' *'
" Moft humble" fervant,
" Macartney.*'
" To WMlam Henry Plgou, Efq, '
He had alfo a letter to Mr, Freeman, another
fupercargo there; by whom, as well as Mr. Pi-
gou, he was treated with great politenefs: and
Mr. Freeman being obliged to leave Canton, and go

aVEaLAND JOCRNEV to INDIA. 27S
go tP Macao, for the recovery of his health, in
vited our traveller to. accompany him there, who
availed himfelf of the opportunity.
While he remained at Canton, a very difa
greeable rupture took place between the fadtory and
the Chinefe. An Englifh fhip lying at Wampoa,
in faluting, fliattered a Chinefe boat; by which
accident, two men in it were much hurt with the
fplinters, and one of them died of his wounds foon
after. The matter was clearly explained to the
mandarins ; and they feemed to be fatisfied that
it was merely an accident A few days after, the
fupercargo of the fliip was forcibly feized, and car
ried into the city : the council met, and determined
to fend for the failors from the fhips; and in the
evening after dark, fifteen or fixteen boats, with
four or five hundred men, attempted, in an irregu-.
lar manner, to come up to Canton, were fired
upon by the Chinefe boats and forts In paffing, and,
with a few men wounded, were compelled to re
treat. Nothing could furpafs the confternation and
indecifion of the council ; and after the moft humi
liating language, they were pbliged tp appeafe the
Chinefe, and fettie the affair by giving up the gun
ner of the fliip to rtieir refentment.
On the 29th December 1TS4, our traveller em
barked in the Fonfborne Eaft Indiaman, Captain
Ham-

276' AP.VENTURES in a journey to INDIA*
Hammet, in which. he had gone from Madras' to
China ; and, after a tolerable voyage of five months
and tv(/-o days, got on board a fifhing boat off Fal
mouth, and was put on fliore there, having been
exadtiy four years and five days from Englandi

the end.

3 9002

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