>Y^LH«¥MKVEI&SirirY" 1915 A Twentieth Century- Traveller in Peru The Land of To-morrow A Newspaper Exploration Up the Amazon and Over the Andes to the California of South America By J. ORTON KERBEY Author of "THE BOY SPY," "ON THE WAR PATH," etc. NEW YORK W. F. BRAINARD, PUBLISHER EIGHTEEN EAST SEVENTEENTH STREET 1906 Copyright 1905 By J. ORTON KERBEY CONTENTS Pages. Introductory or Foreword - 1 CHAPTER I Amazonia, the Land of To-morrow. How to get There. Tramp Steamers and Missionary Passengers. St. Thomas, Martinique, Barbados. Direct trade between New Orleans and Para, uniting Amazon and Mississippi Valleys. Sub-ventions. Over the Equator. North Star disappears, Southern Cross rises. Old gold colored and fresh water sea. The mouth of the Amazon. The Island of Marajo. 11 CHAPTER II Some erroneous impressions of the sea-port of the Amazon. Customs. Architecture. Streets. San Jose Ave., Royal Palm and Mango shade trees. Dress. Class distinctions. Aristocracy. Titles. Early coffee and church ceremonial. Late breakfast. - - - - - - - 26 CHAPTER III Extensive business in rubber and tropical products. Expensive living. Queer currency. Climate. Seasons for religious Festas. The zone of unhealthfulness. Yellow fever, beri-beri, leprosy. Better land beyond. - - - - - 43 CHAPTER IV First Thousand Miles up the Amazon, Steamer Service, Mileage and Navigation. English Steamboat Controls Navigation. Tropical Panorama. The American Colony at Santaraem. Unexplored regions of Equatorial America. - - - 58 CHAPTER V Manaos, the St. Louis of the Amazon. Business. Climate. Health and Society. Dom Pedro's decree of free navigation. Brazilians change the names of rivers. Upper outlet of Amazon. A proposed Republic of Amazonia, predicted. - - - 70 CHAPTER VI The Second thousand miles up the Amazon. Voyage of the Juan Alfredo. Hammock tete-a-tete on board. Sad story of Luzia. The punishment for flirting on an Amazon boat. The Peruvian Frontier. The exiles of Brazilian Siberia. Boundary between Brazil and Peru in dispute, marked by Rio Javaree and other state lines by Rio Napo of Ecuador. 81 CHAPTER VII Iquitos. Amazonian Peru. Direct river navigation. Opportunities for American Trade and Commerce. Rubber and forest products. Gold and silver Mines. Political Conditions. - - - 99 CHAPTER VIII Social Life in Iquitos. Bamboo and Thatch Architec ture. Churches and the Padres. How to Learn Spanish. Peruvian Fourth of July. Indian Dances and Customs. --.-.. no CHAPTER IX Source of the Amazon and origin of the name. From Iquitos to Yurrimaguas on small boat. Opportuni ties for American Steamboats on Upper Amazon. Resources of Eastern Peru. Trade with Indians. White Indians. The Princess Clemeneia. The tributaries Huallagua and Maranon. _ The Ucayali route to Lima*: Peruvian COTlcessiions. Proposed return via Ucayali. Arrive Yurrimaguas, the head of steam navigation to the west. - • - - 127 iv CHAPTER X Resources of the Upper Amazon. Peonage or Peruvian Slavery. Canoeing outfit. Description of Canoes. The Start. First day and night. The sick girl. Mosquitoes, Sand Flies and other insect pests. Habits of Indian paddlers. Turtle Eggs. Curios. 141 CHAPTER XI Canoeing by Daylight or dawn. Indians' queer customs. Bananas the bread of the Country. Monkey legs for meat. The Cannibal Indians of the Land of To-morrow. A pleasant stop over night. Donna Maria and Quillocaca. - - - - 162 CHAPTER XII Change Canoes and Paddlers. Two days and a half in Canyon. Hot water cascade alongside of cold water falls. The Salt Mines of Peru. Indians Poisoning the fish. A cloudburst. Chatsuta the head of Canoe Navigation. Indian girls as Canoe ists. Walks through the Indian village. The Alcade arranges for journey over the first of the Cordilleras. - - - - 180 CHAPTER XIII First day over the Mountains. A rain storm, and a night of discomfort, followed by illness. Arrival at Tarapota sick. Visit of Padre and Patriarch. The Miraculous cure. Chu-chu-wassa. Letters of introduction more potent than letters of credit. The half-breed Napo interpreter. - - - 193 CHAPTER XIV The Valley of Tarapota the Garden of the Gods. Climate,and Products. Opportunities and the dis advantages of Immigration. Rubber gathering in forest and farming in valleys. The Missionary question. - - 207 CHAPTER XV Continuing the journey on mules. A first experience with Guirapa. An Amazonian forest fire. Mud architecture resembling that of Egypt. No window glass or doors. A living grave yard, for con sumptives. - -___222 CHAPTER XVI A fracas with drunken Indians. Chenoa the Balsa. A Night of Horror. Crossing the Mayo, one horse drowned. Tabalosa village in festa. Diplomacy and passport through the village. Official auto graphs secured all along the route. - - 237 CHAPTER XVII The Andes — Three distinct ranges. Five days' tramp over the first or Easterly Chain, en route to the haven of Moyabamba. A rough trail. Indian boys. Moonlight on the Andes. The land of Flowers, Birds and Butterflies. Arrival at the Haven of rest. - - - 252 CHAPTER XVIII Moyabamba valley and town. The Land of To-Morrow. A conception of an ideal life. Part of the original Garden of Eden. - - - - 272 CHAPTER XIX An Amazonian Arcadia. Calling things by the right name. Senoritas and Senoritas — Caste distinc tions. No love of gold. Inez, and her Grand mother decide to accompany the traveller out into the world. 296 CHAPTER XX Homeward bound by the Pacific. Farewell to Arcadia. The Napo interprets for himself. Different tribes of Indians along the route. A Night on the Andes never to be forgotten. The little Inca in tears. 307 vi CHAPTER XXI Scaling the Central Andes on Mules. The way of the transgressor. Looking backward. A last view of the Paradise from the top of the mountain. Precipitous descent into the valley. Camping in the Tambo at night. Westward ho and always upward. Cold rains above vegetation. The stone houses or huts for refuge of travellers. - 320 CHAPTER XXII Three miles above the Earth on a mule. Suggestions for Scientific research. Mountain sickness or Sor- roche. Indians and Mules compared. Rainy and ia wet trail. The Land of Orchids. The Cross on the Andes. - - - 333 CHAPTER XXIII Cha-cha-poyas, the half way town between the Amazon and the Pacific. The Northwest of Amazonia. Wheat growing and cattle raising. The Cuyahupa- nas trail to the Pongo Mansieriche and the gold mines. Dr. Albernoz — Padre Visorlot. The anni versary banquet. - 346 CHAPTER XXIV Farewell to Inez. A misunderstanding with the Pre- fecto. Rough Riding above the rain clouds. 359 CHAPTER XXV Cajamarca, the ancient City of Peru. Prescott's history and the story of tradition. The Inca King's Batbs. Modern Society in the old town. The last of the Andes. - 369 CHAPTER XXVI On the Pacific Coast. A Comparison with the Land of To-morrow. The first news from the outside world in eleven months. Lima vs. Para. The return. 389 Vii ILLUSTRATIONS Pen and ink sketches by Miss Ruth Sypherd Clements and photographs by the author. No. i. A 20TH Century Traveller in Peru Frontispiece 2. View on The Amazon Near the Mouth ..Facing Page 24 3. Para From the Anchorage " " 26 4. Milk Delivery in Para " 35 5. Estrada San Jose — Royal Palms Facing " 40 6. Indians Coagulating Rubber in the Forest " " 46 7. An Amazon Steamboat " " 60 8. The Harbor oe Manaos " " 74 9. The Juan Alfredo Landing, Luzia " " 82 10. Home of the Exiles on the Frontier " " 94 11. The Prefect's Palace, Iquitos " 105 12. A Street in Iquitos " 115 13. Scene Near the First Spanish Settlement at Borgo Facing " 130 14. Yurrimaguas— Don Juan's Home " i3g 15. Canoeing on the Upper Amazon " 149 16. Scene on The Upper Amazon Facing " 154 17. A Banana Plantation on the Upper Amazon " 167 18. Sick in the Tarapota Hammock " 202 rg. Caucho Gatherers in Peru " 215 20. A Bird of Paradise " 268 21. The Bathing Pool at Moyabamba Facing " 270 22. Early Coffee— Siesta " 279 23. Moyabamba Girls Carrying Water Facing " 290 24. Ferry in Balsa on the Rio Maya " " 312 25. Indian Huts on The Andes " 328 26. Scaling the Andes on Mules Facing " 336 27. The Cross on the Andes " 345 28. Cajamarca Water Girls " 371 29. The Oldest Cathedral of South America. . Facing " 376 30. Rough Riding Over the Last Andes " 391 lx INTRODUCTORY. FOREWORD. HE writer begs leave to offer in these "Words before the Beginning" an apology or an explanation of this al leged book, "The Land of To-Mor- row. ' ' One who has no love for the personal pronoun, which seems to be inseparable from the narrative form, would remind any reader that there is no pretense to literary embellishment; if any merit may be discovered in these pages it is due to the fact that it is an effort to give an unassuming and a truthful narrative of the somewhat unusual experience of an American Consul and news paper man during an exploration of the interior of Equatorial America written without any typewriter gymnastics by one who claims to be a "writer," rather than an author, the difference (as I understand it) be ing that the former describes only those things he has seen, or experienced, while an author is permitted to invent interesting stories. Some of the "well-known" correspondents write interesting letters to press syndi cates from their desks in Washington dating them all around the world. This journey by canoeing on the affluents of the upper or alto Amazon and "rough riding" over the 2 - THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Andes (frequently three miles above the sea on a mule) was undertaken in the interests of research for new rubber territory immediately following the writer's Consular agitation of the impending destruction of the natural sources of the lower Amazon. It is proper to state, this investigation of the grow ing rubber industry was instigated by Secretary Blaine in the interest of rubber for insulation for this electric age, and in its relation to reciprocity, the writer being recognized as an Associated Press telegrapher and a practical electrician, interested in the subject. A number of valuable and interesting books on the Amazon may be found in the libraries, a majority of which are in the rather heavy styles of the scientist, or the bug-hunter and butterfly-chasers, as naturalists are called, or perhaps the stories of early Jesuit mission aries along with some bulky official reports supple mented by "bulletins" of the Pan-American ring or the Bureau of American Republics. Voluminous books have also been issued by the numerous literary tourists, most of whom confine their observations to the decks of the steamers that sail around the coast, visiting the various cities. Some of the coast combers who attempt to describe all of South America in one book usually make such palpable errors, even in their geography, that their books are discredited. The writer, who enjoyed an official residence as Consul, with subsequent extensive travel in interiors, is free to say he finds it quite diffi cult to describe in two volumes that section known as "Amazonia," or the "Land of To-Morrow."* *"An American Consul in Amazonia." SOUTH AMERICAN CORRESPONDENCE 3 During the eleven months of this trip from the Atlan tic to the Pacific I did not once hear from the outside world, but occasionally availed of opportunities to send back letters by the Indian post carriers, which were published in Pittsburgh and Washington papers. Some extensive semi-official correspondence with the government was maintained through letters addressed to the Hon. Senator Boise Penrose, of my State, which were promptly forwarded by the genial secretary, Col. Wesley R. Andrews, to the State, Agricultural and War Departments, where they remain on file as records to substantiate this personal narrative. Perhaps some of the data gathered through personal exploitation in the field, may have been of service to the scientists of the departments, in the making up of their official reports. I would like to add also, the observation that an ex tensive experience at one's own expense — in cash, hard labor and loss of health — in pioneering an enterprise of acknowledged merit does not rate high with the United States Civil Service Commission. In a technical exam ination as a Tropical Forester this actual experience did not average equal to that of a young high school girl who turned me down on "botany, "while a youthful Harvard student, who had never seen a tropical tree, rated high in book "forestry." Even a record as a veteran in two wars did not count against the school examination. As an incident relating to the publication of this book I relate the following story of my old boyhood friend and former office associate, Mr. Andrew Car negie, known all over the world as a provider of 4 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW libraries. As Mr. Carnegie was pleased with a pre vious effort ("The Boy Spy") in which he is men tioned, I appealed to him for his assistance in publish ing "The Land of To-Morrow." Mr. Carnegie, who makes some pretense to literary ability (and is able to get his books printed), expressed the opinion that every book should be able to pay its own way. I made a personal business offer to Mr. Carnegie, to give one of these books to each of his numerous libraries in exchange for his cash guarantee to the same amount to my publisher, to which he laughingly replied, as he assented : "Why, Jo, what's the use in writing books unless you can make some money out of it?" As a rule, the first question of our American official and scientific people to whom I have talked on the rubber exploitation is: "Is there any money in it, or chance for business down there?" This book answers the question. On the other side the English public men give more consideration to scientific or geographical features. When in London en route home from an exploration of the Amazon basin in Peru involving 1,000 miles of canoeing down the rapids of the canyons of the Cor dilleras, in which it was incidentally developed that I had probably located a new source of the Amazon, making the river the longest in the world, I was pre sented by Mr. Henry White, secretary of the United States Embassy, to Sir Clement Markham, chairman of the Royal Geographical Society. In conversation with Sir Clement Markham it was suggested I submit a "paper" to the society, as I had incidentally men- ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY 5 tioned that the real source of the Amazon was in the snow-capped peaks of the Andes or in the clouds. It was further explained that in following the Inca trail from Lake Titicaca, in Bolivia and Peru, towards Cuzco, en route to the head of canoe navigation at a "divide" of the coast range at an altitude of 14,000 feet, a little lakelet, scarcely an acre in area, was dis covered, supplied by the melting snow from the adjacent mountains peaks (18,000 feet) during the few hours of the mid-day sun. One outlet flows backward to Lake Titicaca and Pacific. The other outlet runs northeasterly, forming the Rivers Vilcanote, Urubamba, Ucayali and Amazon. At this source the writer was able to step across the Amazon, which was followed down the stream on foot or canoe and boat for about 5,000 miles to the Con sulate, near the mouth, where it is 138 miles wide, including the upper and lower outlet, and the Island of Marajo, which separates them. In this journey was found unlimited natural wealth in the forests of rubber, gutta-percha, dye woods and material for materia medica, as well as hides, nuts and unlimited adventure. Believing this material de velopment would interest the English people, I elabor ated these commercial features in my paper, only inci dentally relating the geographical subject. In a few days I received a note to call at Burlington Gardens. Sir Clement, in the most agreeable manner, handed me the paper I had submitted, remarking: "Very clever, indeed, very; we should be glad to use it if you could find yourself able to eliminate every thing pertaining to business or to trade." They 6 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW wished only to hear of the scientific or geographic points. In complying with this suggestion I felt as if it were cutting the heart out of my paper, which they accepted and printed to the credit of the American newspaper man in one of the volumes of the society. It was suggested the writer was entitled to the hind initials of F. R. G. S., but the sad fact that the initiation fee was £25 with annual dues of £5, or $25.00, at the time prevented. At this time there was very considerable agitation of South American enterprises through the Pan- American Congress which resulted in the formation in Washington of the existing "Bureau of American Re publics," devoted to the interests of closer trade and transportations between North and South America. - The United States Rubber combine officials, who had been enjoying a monopoly of the great rubber industry, in a quiet way, througli which large fortunes were being made, became interested in the Congress, exert ing a strong influence in the appointment of officials. It may be said the combine were not desirous of having their rubber bonanza ventilated through Consular reports or newspapers that might attract competition and boom reciprocity. By the way, the existence of this, the greatest of all trusts, known as the United States Rubber Trust, offers proof that the "tariff is not the mother of trusts," as rubber is admitted free of duty. On learning that the agents of this Pan-American ring had access to Consular reports before they were offered to the public, and only used such portion as OFFICIAL CORRESPONDENCE 7 suited their purpose, and remembering Blaine's words that my endorsements as a newspaper man had se cured the appointment as Consul rather than other influence, I inaugurated a press correspondence with a syndicate covering several cities, including Wash ington. The purpose was to make use of this narra tive of personal experience and observation to convey to the public the facts that had been previously sub mitted in Consular reports that were not considered by the "ring" as available for public. It was in tended to use the matter over the nom de plume "0. K.," but some of the editors, thinking, no doubt, to add interest, captioned it as "Consular Correspon dence," etc. In due time the Consul received some very courteous letters from the officials of the State Department, written on exceedingly stiff paper, officially sealed in blue envelopes, stating that the "press throughout the country were printing letters from the Consul at Para," politely inviting attention to certain paragraphs of the Consular bible prohibiting Consuls from public correspondence except in matters of a "purely literary character." Taking refuge behind this exception and not desir ing to remain as Consul, as the salary was inadequate and living expensive, the regulations prohibited en gaging in any sort of business, the press correspon dence was continued, comprising some rather "hot stuff," as one of the editors suggested, from a hot climate, which I hoped would have the desired effect of hastening the relief asked in order that I might make this proposed exploitation up the Upper Amazon. 8 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW The "ring" availed of the public criticism of their methods and also influenced some of the "gang" at Para to protest officially, ostensibly because of the official exposure of leprosy and yellow fever, but really to protect their bad business methods. One Sunday afternoon while enjoying a siesta in my hammock I was handed a cable, which had come out via Europe to Portugal, thence to Maderia Islands, to Rio de Janerio and up 2,000 miles of Brazilian coast to Para, reading: "You are prohibited from press correspondence; further disregard of instructions not tolerated." This was signed by an Assistant Secretary of State, whom I knew Blaine despised, and understanding that Blaine was ill and recalling that the Secretary was my friend, who had suggested this press correspondence as a means of educating our people about that little- known region, and realizing that the rebuke was prob ably provoked by a recent contribution humorously criticizing the Pan-American Railroad paralleling the Andes and bridging the Amazon flood plains and not competing in time with slow ships, etc., I laughed, and after another "vermouth," answered by asking for relief. This did not come, however, for some months, when, sick from fevers, I was carried aboard ship in a ham mock, sailing to the Maderia Islands for recovery, returning to the United States via Europe a month or two later. That forbidden correspondence, with other sup pressed matter, is included in a narrative of Consular experience, which it was thought not politic to publish HOPES DEFERRED 9 at the time, because of political and personal interests.* In a few months I returned to the Amazon, under taking the pursuit of information and adventure, ascending the Amazon to the head of steam naviga tion, beyond civilization, in Peru, some 3,000 miles; thence exploiting numerous affluents in canoes with only Indian paddlers for companions, reaching to the foothills of the Andes, known as the Cordilleras, get ting so far into the interior and so far from the starting point that it was concluded to go beyond and continue the research for gutta-percha and other products of the altitudes while crossing the continent to the Pacific. At the time of starting on a first trip it was ex pected Blaine would become the nominee of the party for President, in whieh case I concluded my services and experience would entitle me to an appointment as a Minister Plenipotentiary and Ambassador Extraor dinary to one of the South American Republics located on the other side. I did some "rough riding" over the Andes, some times at an altitude of "three miles above the earth on a mule," buoyed by the prospect of "recognition," but when I reached the Pacific the first news I had was: "Blaine is dead. Cleveland is President," and I realized that I was out of a job 5,000 miles from home, and not a d cent. Remembering the last words of my friend, Andy Carnegie, who, in bidding me "good-bye," said, in his cheery way: "Well, Jo, if you get strapped down there, draw on me." *"0, Consul Americano Na Amazonas" — which is now being published. 10 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW I did draw through the Consul at Callao, near Lima, but this added to my further embarrassment, as Mr. Carnegie was at Skibo, in Scotland, and my draft came back unpaid. This narrative tells the true story. I had been discouraged in some efforts to publish this experience and was disposed to abandon the effort when I met with some kindly encouragement which resulted in resurrecting the manuscript in which it was difficult to again become interested, which fact will account for the many errors, indicating a lack of proper revision. To Mr. R. A. Franks, the courteous treasurer and confidential business man of Mr. Carnegie, I am glad to record my obligations for favors received. Miss "A. L. S.," of Congressional Library, for suggestions, revision and kindly encouragement, as also to the youthful Virginia artist, Miss Ruth Sypherd Clements, for illustrations. CHAPTER I. ¦ MAZONIA is called "La Tierra de Manana," The Land of To-Morrow, in the double sense, that it is a region wholly undeveloped; the rather indis criminately mixed, Spanish, Portuguese, African and Indian population, never doing to-day that which may be at tempted to-morrow, and "Manana" is looked forward to as the coming day that will bring the Anglo Saxon to develop the rich and beautiful val leys that are so productive of life in its various forms. The area of that portion of South America, known as Amazonia, is greater in extent than the entire valleys of the Ohio and Mississippi combined. It stretches 3,000 miles due west almost under the Equator, and extends several degrees both North and South latitude. Through this vast expanse of country, from the Andes to the Atlantic, flows unceasingly the mighty waters of the Amazon. On account of the wonderful natural products and the agricultural possibilities of this immense area, Amazonia may be compared to our great West ; while for the value of its unexplored forests of India rubber and other indigenous products, as well as for the rich ness of the gold and silver, deposits of the Cordilleras at the head waters, it may also be appropriately called "The California of South America." Though discovered less than ten years after our own 11 12 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW country this vast region of perpetual summer is more thinly populated than the frozen lands of the Artie. As the ships sail, the Amazon is as near Washington as to the capital of Brazil at Rio de Janeiro. The latitude of the mouth of the Amazon is "0," being directly under the Equator, and the longitude is considerably to the east of Washington. A north and south line along the east coast of North America, from New York will pass through the Isthmus of Panama, and along the west coast of South America. The northern coast line of Brazil, for over three degrees runs almost due east and west, forming a front facing the north, a thousand miles above which the Amazon enters the Atlantic. This natural coast con formation seems to make the great river closer to us, and the tremendous volume of water uniting with the African Equatorial current, forming the gulf stream, invites the trade, which it is said, always follows the transportation. It would appear that steamships from southern ports like New Orleans, Mobile, or South Florida, would not only serve to promote reciprocity in trade, but result in establishing friendly relations that would be of great advantage to the West and South. Steamship and barge transportation would not only shorten the distance, but connect the two greatest rivers of the earth, thus uniting the Mississippi and Amazon Valley by direct lines of steamers. The Amazon basin produces those standard articles, rubber, cacao, coffee, sugar, roots, plants and barks, required for the "materia medica," which we cannot grow in our latitude ; but all of which are necessary for THE AMAZON AND MISSISSIPPI 13 civilized life, and for which we pay hundreds of mil lions of gold annually. The Mississippi and Ohio Valleys can supply in abundance those articles that cannot be produced in Amazonia, and for which the natives must depend on other countries, in the temperate zone; namely, flour, bacon, lard, canned meats, hardware, tools, machinery, and especially coal for fuel and our kerosene for lighting that dark continent. Certainly the Ohio and Mississippi valleys might ex change their products cheaper and quicker by the rivers to New Orleans or Mobile, than by rail to New York, there to be re-shipped to steamers and thence double back or parallel the fiver by sailing along the dangerous coast past the latitude of New Orleans to reach the mouth of the Amazon. There are two steamship lines plying between New York and the Amazon, both of which belong to English companies that have been exclusively in this trade for forty years, each of these lines has steamers sailing weekly from New York and Liverpool. First class cabin fare to the Amazon is about $100.00, making the voyage in about fifteen days. One may sail from the Brooklyn wharves in the one steamer nearly 3,000 miles up the Amazon at an addi tional cost of another $100.00, enabling the tourist to make himself comfortable, in the same bertk, without change, via Para, and Manaos in the Brazils to Iquitos in Peru. The time would be about forty days, includ ing the usual stops at Para and Manaos, which admits of visiting those places without expense. Contracts may be made for special rates. The ships ' 14 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW are not "tramps," but regular boats, adapted for heavy cargo rather than light passenger traffic, with accommodations depending somewhat on the ship selected, but more especially on the captain. Some of the ships stop for coal at St. Thomas and call at Martinique and Barbadoes to deliver and take on mail for the Amazon. In addition to the lines to the United States, there are weekly steamers from the Upper Amazon to Europe via Maderia Islands to Lisbon, .Havre, Ger many, as well as Liverpool, while the government of Brazil maintains the Lloyd Brosileiro, a regular line of elegant steamers, which come up the coast from Rio de Janeiro to Bahia, Pernambuco, ascending the Amazon to Manaos and Iquitos. On a former voyage, when I was one of a number of passengers on an American steamer sailing from New port News, Va., where we took on sufficient coal to last the 6,000 mile voyage to Rio de Janeiro, also storing thousands of packages of flour, lard and bacon from the acres of freight piled in the warehouse of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad. The large number of missionaries on the passenger list and the absence of business people, created the impression that we were bound, with our cargo of pro visions for a heathen land. On the second day out, the gulf stream was crossed, when most of the passengers were called upon to pay tribute to old Neptune. In a couple of days more the island of St. Thomas is seen looming up in the dis tance like barren mountain tops above a deluge. The sight revives the sick who are overjoyed at beholding ST. THOMAS— MARTINIQUE 15 * dry land once more, however forlorn and unattractive it appears. Porto Rico appears in the western horizon. The entrance to St. Thomas harbor is through a nar row winding channel, that seemingly leads into what might have been before the flood, the crater of an im mense volcano. The anchorage is surrounded by pre cipitous mountains; the situation of the ship, reminds one of the Ark on Mount Arraratt. The odd looking town on the hill-side appeared to be on end with the houses on top of one another, after the manner of Japanese perspective. There are only a couple of narrow streets. When a tidal wave comes along, during the season of cyclones, they say the sea rushing through the funnel-like channel, causing the water to rise suddenly to a great height when the ships in the harbor drag their anchors sailing up one street and down the other, on top of the wave. For over two centuries, St. Thomas has been a Danish province, which that Government, at an annual expense of $150,000 beyond its revenue, holds as a sort of Botany Bay for their officials. It is termed a free port, or a two and a half per cent place, because all duties are levied at that figure. Its principal pro ducts are bay rum and cyclones, and its chief export is yellow fever. Twenty hours from St. Thomas the ship glides alongside the most beautiful spot in the West Indies, the island of Martinique. From the anchorage in the harbor of St. Pierre, since destroyed by the volcano, we were entertained by the wonderful diving feats of the native boys, whose gyrations could be seen far into the depths of the clear blue water. 16 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW * The appearance of the straggling town nestling in the tropical foliage under the shadow of the green hills was quite attractive. Our stay was too limited to permit going ashore, but we were close enough to see people moving around in their picturesque dress, and since the terrible catastrophe, I recall hearing the bells of the St. Pierre churches, which we were told were called "the passing bells," giving notice of a death or a funeral. A monument on one of the hill tops was pointed out as marking the birth place of the Empress Josephine. A graphic description of the picturesque island is given by Bigelow in his "Canoeing Around Mar tinique." After another day's quiet sailing amongst the islands, another coming in view when we lose sight of the last, which relieves the monotony of the ordinary sea voyage, we anchor in the open roadstead of Barbados, one of the most interesting as well as important pos sessions" of the English government in the West Indies. This island is said to be the most thickly populated portion of the earth's surface, from which it is inferred that it is healthful. It is patronized by a class of Eng lish that find genial society in the officers of the British army, whose headquarters are there. Accom modations for visitors are provided by the large Marine Hotel, which looks from the anchorage like an immense hospital or quarantine building. At this port the tourist will begin to collect curios, in the form of articles made by the natives from coral, sea grass, etc. The most beautiful are the ornaments made from fish scales. BARBADOS THE DISTRIBUTING POINT 17 The elegant ships of the Royal Mail Steamship Com pany make this their port of call and distribution for all the West Indies, Central America and the Isthmus, as well as making connections with steamers of other lines reaching to North and South America. Unlike St. Thomas and Martinique, the topography of Barbadoes is flat, and English being spoken, the American feels a little more at home than in the French or Danish islands. It is but a day's sail from Barbados to Trinidad and the mouth of the Orinoco, and about four days to the Amazon. Because of the position of Barbados, as the "windward" is land, there is some irregularity in ships bound south from New York calling. All of these islands would, however, be in the track of a line sailing from New Orleans or Mobile to North Brazil and the Amazon. Relatively it is as much out of the course of a ship from Rio de Janeiro or the Argentine to New York, or vice-versa, to call at Para on the Amazon, as it would be for the same ship to go into the Gulf of Mexico, and ascend the Mississippi to New Orleans, both cities being about one hundred miles above the mouths of the respective rivers. The requirements of the Amazon trade being entirely distinct from that of South Brazil and the Argentines, as well as for geographical reasons, demand an inde pendent service. Formerly the ships of the American line made calls at Barbados and Para, the latter being the half way stop enroute to Rio de Janeiro, each voyage of 6,000 miles from New York, including the 3,000 miles of 18 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Brazilian coasting trade occupying over thirty days of tedious service. The attempt to cover so much of the southern terri tory with four slow ships may account in part for the failure of the American enterprise. The Americans were charged with extravagant management on shore, but they were certainly economical at sea, especially in the consumption of coal at the expense of a great waste of time. The Brazilieros were partial to the American line, the Stars and Stripes being always cordially greeted on the Amazon. There has always been more than sufficient business from the Amazon to require the continuous service of the ten or more ships of the two English lines, fre quently reinforced by the chartering of tramp steamers. The freight rate on rubber (which next to bullion is the most valuable cargo afloat), from Para to New York, is 25c and 5c primage per cubic foot, equivalent to about one cent per pound on the most valuable tropical import, next to sugar and coffee, and which is admitted free of duty as a crude material but on which Brazil exacts an export duty of 25 per cent. Unlike coffee or sugar from the lower provinces of Brazil, rubber is a safe cargo, not being liable to dam age in transit, while delay increases its value through curing by evaporation. In addition to the freights the American line enjoyed the advantages of a subsidy of $6,000 for each round trip from the Brazilian government, the United States only paying the mail contract, it was said their net STEAMER SUBVENTIONS 19 profits on some voyages was over $20,000. The ships were withdrawn because the United States did not grant subsidies. Neither of the English companies receive any "sub ventions" as the English call subsidies, from the home or Brazilian governments. Each company, however, had contracts with the State government of Amazonas, promising to pay some 4,800 milreis (a nominal sum in English money), as an inducement to extend their ser vice another. thousand miles up the Amazon to Manaos. For this they were required to perform one voyage a month, carrying the mail ; three tons of state cargo and three first and six second class governmental passengers free, on each voyage. The requirements were so exact ing and the penalties so severe, the steamship owners did not hesitate to say they were better off without subsidies. Substantially the same conditions were required of the line to Liverpool, but it was found to be so unsat isfactory that the English companies gave up the sub ventions. The service is now more satisfactorily performed and it has been extended another thousand miles further up the Amazon to Iquitos in Peru without subsidies. Ships sail regularly from New York and Liverpool direct to ports thousands of miles up the Amazon. Probably all that America enjoys in the way of trade to the Amazon is due to the two competing English companies, who have successfully maintained the regular weekly service during fifty years, from the profits on freights and by judicious business manage ment. 20 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW On a second voyage to the Amazon, I was fortunate in securing passage with Captain John Johnson, of the Booth line, on the steamer "Gregory," sailing from the pier at Martin's wharfs, Brooklyn, direct to Para, without call. In somewhat extensive travel, over many seas, and on large steamers, I have not had as pleasant a voy age, as during the fortnight of stormy March, that I was Captain Johnson's only passenger from New York to the Equator. With Mr. Jones, the first officer, we made a compan ionable trio, promenading the rolling deck arm in arm, during the first few days while crossing the Gulf Stream heading eastwardly instead of southerly, in search of the trade winds we never met, though we reached well into the Atlantic. Our clever young English captain was a generous provider of the good things from his abundant stores, whieh we all enjoyed, while seated around the table, discussing in our loneliness the girls we left behind and those with whom we hoped to renew acquaintance on reaching port. As there were no ladies aboard, we sometimes sat down to dinner in shirt sleeves and after reaching the tropical seas, perhaps took our early cafe standing in pajamas, after the manner of the peo ple to whose land we were journeying. When the ship reached the latitude, which the cap tain declared was marked on his chart "coats off," we obeyed the rule and shed our cold weather clothing. Mr. Jones rigged his awnings aft, under which were strung the large and comfortable Cearense hammocks ¦in which we rocked in the cradle of the deep, SOUTHERN CROSS AND NORTH STAR 21 thoroughly enjoying the dreamy rest, peculiar to the warm days and pleasant evenings on tropical seas. The weather was delightful, the sea as placid as a river, while our good ship *s bow, pointing to the south, glided smoothly towards the Equator. Evening by evening, hour by hour, we watched the North Star, gradually setting toward the horizon, until it finally disappeared below the dark waters. We turned sadly, as from the past to the future, and looking forward and upward, in the direction in whieh we were sailing, found suspended over our future horizon, the beautiful Southern Cross, which like a rainbow of hope and promise shown like a gem through the darkness of a tropical night. The captain observed, as we crossed the Equator, that we "jumped" over the line without causing it to vibrate or giving the ship a "jar." We begin to notice a changed appearance in the dark blue and almost green water of those seas, the water taking on an old gold color streaked with the blue. Sailing over this sea, gazing into the blue and gold, that occasionally shows bits of green vegetation, we strain our vision towards the land with some such sensations as must have come over its first navigator, Vincent Pincon, the Portuguese, who in the year 1500 discovered this "fresh water sea," and while still out of sight of land filled his casks, as the Brazilian steamers now do, with most excellent drinking water. It was forty-one years later that the Spaniard, Orellana, drifted down the mighty stream and claimed the Amazon for Spain. The tremendous currents of the mighty river for 22 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW ages have met the incoming tides of the Atlantic, renewing the struggle daily, for the mastery, but always ending in the same drawn battle. When the tide is out the Amazon is victorious for a few hours, pouring into the bosom of the ocean an immense volume of yellow water and depositing the sediment carried down from the Andes, which is gradually form ing the dangerous bars and islands that may yet result in advancing permanently these engineering lines, against its restless, relentless, antagonist, extending this, or establishing another Continent. The tremendous volume of water, emptying into the ocean trending to the north marks a golden channel in the blue of the sea that is easily discernable for two hundred miles. Is it not possible that the floods from the mighty river marking the line of the Equator, reaching to the gulf stream may have carried the germs of vegetable life from this centre of the earth by the gulf stream to our continent and to Europe ? Through the courtesy of the captain, I spent much of my time on the bridge with himself and the men at the wheel. In looking through his glasses one morn ing, in the direction indicated by him, I could barely distinguish the green fringe of the forests, which I knew sprang from the soil of another Continent. We saw Brazil again and were thankful. We sighted the pilot boat near Salinas, the little settlement of fishermen, below the lower mouth of the Amazon; the little dingy dancing over the waves, as if glad to see us, when alongside, looks like a play thing beside our big hull. MOUTH OF THE AMAZON 23 The swarthy Portuguese pilot scrambled up the rope ladder, and was courteously welcomed on board by the captain, who with the customary formalities, turned the command over to a personage that resembled an opera bouffe pirate, who, mounting the bridge, changed the course due west. We crossed the Braganza bar cautiously, entering the Amazon on the flood tide by the lower delta, which is so wide that it was difficult to realize we were not yet at sea. The bocco or mouth of the river, according to our captain, who measured his charts for me, is 138 miles between the capes Magouri to Cape Del Norte. The island of Marajo, lying between the upper and lower outlets, is a small continent in itself, being as large as Portugal, the country of its discoverer. The river on the northern side of this truly "mys terious" island is much wider than the lower outlet, but that channel is not used for navigation, because it is practically unknown or unsurveyed and dan gerous. The greater volume of water discharges by the northern delta. When the tide and current join it is called the "meeting of the waters," a line of foam or a long stretch of white caps marking the line of contact, a small boat caught on its crest of angry water is upturned as quickly as if a monster of the sea had risen underneath and tipped it over. After steaming a couple of hours upon the lower delta, which is used entirely for navigation, the eager passengers discover here and there, a thatched hut peeping through a light spot in the dark forest. No land is really in sight as it is the season of floods, which 24 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW covers the low lands bordering the river, most of the houses being built on piles. Turning out of the main stream, into one of the numerous little bays or bayous, we pass some higher ground, on which is located the suburban resort or Coney Island of Para called Point Pinheiro, that is wide open every day of the year in this land of ever lasting summer. As we sailed past an odd looking old fort on one of the thousand islands, a signal gun was fired across our bow, followed by a hail in Portuguese, after the custom of centuries ago, demanding to know "whence we came and whither bound and to answer truly if any sickness aboard," all of which they knew, as all ships entering the river are reported by the cable from the pilot station. The captain good naturedly shouted back "Quinzie dias, Neuva York, and all well." The Bra zilian flag was dipped in exchange of salutes with our ensign, as we passed on, not even hesitating or slacking speed. The American traveller must first learn to respect the customs of the lands he visits' even though they may seem absurd. From my position on the bridge, glancing at the tall mast of the old ship, I was gratified to see the Stars and Stripes flying from the topmast. Jokingly accus ing the captain of sailing under false colors he retorted smilingly, that it was a compliment to his American passenger. I doffed my hat to the colors and heartily shook the Englishman's hand thanking him for the compliment and the many courtesies. The large white walled warehouses, lining the water front, with the "trapeches" or piers, and docks as View on the Amazon Near the Mouth Facing Page 24 THE N. 0. OF TIIE AMAZON 25 also the steeples of the old Jesuit churches in the back ground were all familiar, recalling my first arrival and life in the old town, and my departure, when carried aboard too ill to walk. The anchor goes down with the usual rumble, and we were swinging in the stream, the Para or Tocatins river of our geographies, of which no Brazilian has heard, however, the water being known there as "Gua- jara Bay" (pronounced Y-jah-rah), a picturesque har bor, several miles long, but so narrow opposite the city that steamers are obliged to anchor at ebb tide with their bows pointing up stream, and wait for the incom ing tide to swing them when they wish to go out. One of the interesting phenomena to the newly arrived visitor is the rapid current running up stream, with such force, that it is almost impossible to disembark, the small boats being unable to grapple with the anchored ship, the foaming waters at the bow, giving the anchored ship the appearance of going at full speed down stream. Attention is attracted to the jaunty little Brazilian customs officer, who has boarded our ship, placing soldiers on the gangway, who scrutinize with reciprocal courtesy and interest, all communication with the soil of Brazil, CHAPTER II. ARA (pronounced pah-rah) in the Spanish or Portuguese, means "for" or via, more literally, "going to," an appropriate name for the city, which is the gateway to the great regions beyond. The official name of the capital city of the old province of Para is "Belem," which designation is yet used in all Governmental com munications. This the most northern city of Brazil has much more to interest the visitor than the business fact of being the principal rubber market of the world. Like the rest of Brazil it is rich in history and tradition. Its civiliza tion is as old, and, as they view it, as far advanced as our own. The pre-historic development of this part of South America is an attractive field for the modern explorer and the archaeologist. Though the business of Para is largely speculative, being dependent upon the natural productions of the Amazon valley, it is not a boom city like those of our West, nor like the oil, coal and gas regions of the East. The foundations were laid in 1611 by the Portuguese commander, who wrested the land from the occupancy of the French. It is the capital of the State of Para, the most north erly of the Republic of the United States of Brazil com prising one-seventh of the territory and one-thirteenth of the entire surface of South America. 26 Para From the Anchorage Facing Page 26 ADVICE TO TROPICAL TRAVELLERS 27 The population is about one hundred thousand, com posed principally of Portuguese and their descendents, and a mixture of native and Indian and former African slaves, with a large contingent of foreigners of all nations engaged in the rubber business and its allied interests. Much erroneous information has been printed in our country regarding Para by travellers who come on steamers enroute north and south, and who unfor tunately confine their observations to a few hours' sight seeing in the midday sun. They make the com mon mistake of not adapting themselves to climate and changed conditions, going ashore late in the morning and returning to the ship in the early evening which is the most pleasant time on shore. They are of course exhausted by the heat and disgusted with one day's experience of a tropical sunshine and too often write their opinions of a city from this experience. The natives have a saying that "Only Englishmen and dogs go about in the sun," and all who vent their hot temper in our language are called Englishmen. The injunction to "Do in Rome as the Romans do" is especially applicable to the tropical traveller. As a first requirement strangers should keep out of the sun during the day, and avoid the rains which come down in sheets in the early evening. One may take a cold or suffer a chill in those hot lands as readily as with us, the results being far more serious. If one gets wet or chilled, the preventive of fevers is a sponge bath with Cachasa, the rum of the country, made from the sugar cane, which is very cheap and ghould be used freely externally, but never internally, 28 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW except as a morning bitters with Peruvian bark, as a preventive of malaria. Fruit is abundant and in some sections the natives fairly subsist on bananas and fish, but the stranger is cautioned not to eat fruit, especially oranges, at night. Some of the better class of people do not eat the oranges, because of the belief that they transmit fevers. Oranges grown in the tropics, or at least in this part, are entirely devoid of the agreeable fragrance of our fruit. The early hours of the morning before tie sun warms up, -are devoted to business and exercising, during the noon breakfast is served on the piazzas, and late in the day, after the rains have cooled the air and washed the streets, dinner is served and the evening devoted to pleasure. An erroneous impression prevails that Spanish is the language of all South America; but in Brazil the Por tuguese is spoken. Both Portuguese and Spaniard seem to understand each other, but English is generally understood by those who meet with strangers. Passengers on ships calling at Para north or south bound up theAmazon usuallyhave sufficient time ashore to see the city at its best. Any one of the swarm of Portuguese boatmen that flock about the ships will contract to take passengers ashore after early coffee, about 6 a. m. After a few hours' stroll on Brazilian soil a noonday breakfast may be enjoyed on the balcony of one of the several well kept hotels. Good French or Portuguese wine furnished with the meals is preferable to the water of those lands. Delicious coffee grown and prepared freshly in the land where it is produced, ASHORE IN PARA 29 is served after the meals and not as a beverage. The intolerable hot hours of the afternoon may be spent in the enjoyment of a siesta- in a large hammock strung in the corridor of the hotel until after the evening rains, when another stroll may be enjoyed before dinner, which is served at candle light with which the real tropical day begins. The dinner is followed by theatres or the opera, which are subsidized by the government. If the reader will permit, one familiar with the city through consular residence, to write as if acting as the conductor of a party, I shall be pleased to tell my little story in that style. Groups of passengers from the ships straggle in scat tering pairs through what seems like a gateway of a great white wall formed by a large warehouse on one side, and the massive walls of the abandoned Jesuit Church, resembling a grim fortress or a prison, on the other. But once inside facing the entrance to the church, they are agreeably surprised to find a beau tiful little plaza, tastefully arranged, with gravel walks and beds of lovely tropical flowers of sweet fragrance. A pedestal in the center supports a heroic sized bronze statue of one of the country's patriots. A picturesque grotto, constructed from imported rubble stone over which the clear water from a pretty fountain ripples musically, finds its way into small pools that contain living specimens of the finny tribe that inhabit the Amazon, the most interesting of which is the sea cow. Rare birds of gorgeous plumage stalk about in the tall grass. Among these is the white heron, prized for the aigrette feathers, which are more precious than 30 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW ostrich plumes. There are also several varieties of accomplished parrots that can swear in several lan guages, and lively monkeys, valued according to their resemblance to the human form divine. This little Plaza gives a stranger an idea of a very few of the immensity of the wild life in the forests beyond, and of the queer fish of the Equatorial rivers. But probably the majority of tourists are more inter ested in a visit to a character of Para, known in all lands as "Monkey Joe," the keeper of an old curiosity shop where all sorts of curios can be obtained for cash. His principal trade is in monkeys of all sorts of pedigree and parrots at 25 cents each that are warranted to make it interesting for any monkey. On one side of the Plaza are the massive walls of the church abandoned many years ago by the Jesuits, those earnest workers who were expelled from that country. Some persons believe there are hidden chambers and secret passages within the stone walls of this edifice, which could give some very interesting and tragic accounts of the early settlement of Amazonia. There seems to have been in the minds of the officials who seized the property, a deep spirit of reverence, as the beautiful entrance and interior of the church have remained undisturbed, a solid and impressive monument to the noble religio bellicose zeal, the valor and devotion of the early Catholic settlers. The bells in the square, Moorish looking steeples, have been silent for many years, but it is probable that the im- pressiveness of the structure with its steeples pointing OLD CHURCHES 31 to the sky, have preached many sermons in stone to these people. Adjoining the church stands the large convent which has also been confiscated, but unlike the church pre sents a bustling appearance, having been "converted" into an Alfandaga, or custom house, in the capacious rooms of which everything that comes to Para from other lands is stored to await leisurely examination. Three lines of street cars pass on three sides of the Plaza, two of which are narrow gauge. The cars formerly drawn by mules and driven by natives are now operated by electric motors. The people do not take the "cars" there, but call them "Bonds"; not as has been stated because so many bonds were required tb put them in operation, but in compliment to the persistent efforts of an Englishman, named Bond, who introduced their use. The narrow guage system is best adapted to Para as in many locali ties a cart cannot pass when one of the "Bonds" is on the same block on account of the narrowness of the streets. The houses are small, usually one story and quite picturesque with their overhanging balconies and win dows decorated with bright colored shades ; queer look ing hallways and low tile covered roofs extending over the narrow sidewalks. The roofing material resembles split bamboo of terra cotta pipe, lapping each other, forming corrugated ridges and gutters that carry off the heavy rains that are showered on the narrow pave ments. The tile also answers as a useful non-conductor of the terrific heat of the torrid sun. The greater portion of the old city proper consists 32 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW of small houses built long ago in the Portuguese style of architecture. The walls are composed of large tiled brick which are hollow. These are cemented together by a muddy looking material that answers for mortar in a land without frost. The better class of houses have their fronts covered with variegated tiles im ported from Portugal, the majority being of as fine ma terial as are used in the States for mantles and interior decoration. The prevailing colors are yellow and blue, in designs that are harmonious and tasteful. In the suburbs are some strikingly handsome residences of different styles, nestling picturesquely in the midst of luxuriant tropical gardens. The more modern houses are built on raised foundations for better protection from dampness as well as the numerous insect pests of that climate. Every house is provided with hooks on which hammocks are strung. Everybody sleeps in a hammock, because it is cooler, cleaner and out of reach of insects. Usually the only covering is the mosquito netting or "mosquetare" which is spread over the ham mock as a canopy. Some few of these suburban homes are occupied by foreigners who represent the American and European business houses, but the majority are the homes of the better and wealthier class of Brazilians who are cultivated and a hospitable people. Between five and six in the evening, or just before dinner — and at no other time of the day — the stranger will probably notice quite a number of pretty, bright, dark eyes peeping through the window shades, or the neat forms of the senhoritas posing gracefully over the little balconies. These are slightly above the ordinary height, so that the senhoritas or senhoras have the CUSTOM OF SENHORITAS 33 advantage of looking down on any admirer who may happen to be strolling along the narrow sidewalk below. The young American tourist with a patronizing air who will imagine that he discovers at least one pair of black eyes that look agreeable, will find out if any advances are made, that Brazilian ladies are like our own and resent the masher's advances. The senhorita must be approached cavalierly. She may smile upon the poor blond approvingly who offers only the homage of love, while she rejects with unmistakable scorn the rude advances of those who may think a show of riches and cheek will sustain their suit. The ladies have a charming way of saluting each other, and their gentlemen friends, by raising and deftly waving the tapering fingers of what looks to be little hands in neat brown gloves. To call another, they do not shout or beckon with the hand as we do, but simply turn the palm downward. A wig wag of the index finger means a quiet but decided no ; to place the finger to the lips is silence ; and putting the finger between the teeth is a sure sign of displeasure, and they will even show disgust by spitting to the ground. The beautiful brown and black eyes can express much for which there are no signals. Of course placing the hand on the heart and sighing means love, if they are not close enough to "tell it with their eyes." The better class of young men of Para, who are in business, and have been educated in Lisbon or Paris, are courteous, warm hearted gentlemen of the de cided handsome dark eyed type and as partial to our American and English blondes as the ladies are to blue eyes. 34 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW The San Jose avenue, leading from the Palacio toward the 'fashionable suburb or Nazareth (pro nounced Naz-a-ray) possesses a feature which can be . equaled in no American or European city. On either side of this broad street are rows of the largest Royal palms ; large stately trees with round straight trunks beautifully tapering above the tops of the surround ing houses. These are crowned with graceful clusters of leaves twenty to thirty feet in diameter,- but at a height of sixty feet or more from the ground they appear so light and airy, waving in the breeze, that they invariably impress one as being petite. Strangers encountering leaves whieh have been wrenched off by some violent storm, are amazed to find them to be by actual measurement from twenty to twenty-five feet long. Nazareth Avenue, the principal street of the beauti ful suburb of the same name, affords a delightful stroll in the early evening while the sun is yet bright, or later in the soft moonlight. The broad pavements are perfectly shaded by immense old mango trees, which all the year round form a dense mass of green foliage, so thick that not a fleck of sunlight can penetrate their wide spreading, generously rounded dome. There can be no watered milk sold in Para, and it is necessarily fresh. It comes around in early morn ing noiselessly on all fours, in droves of milk cows linked in sections of three or four. With their muzzled calves following them, tied in some instances to the cow's tail, they are driven to the customer's door where milk is drawn into your own glass ready for use, warm without the formality of straining. CURIOUS CUSTOMS IN PARA 35 t -MvSiIrK"^ \\« »• ¦'^ Milk Delivery in Para 36 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW The principal vehicles of Para are a few second hand cabs in which may occasionally be seen the officials or a bridal party going to the churches. All others, with the exception of the street cars, are two- wheeled drays, which half dressed porters lead by a long rope that permits them to walk on the pavement. There is no stone in lower Amazonia. The business streets are paved with stone blocks brought from Portugal as ballast and laid down at an estimated cost of twenty-five to fifty cents each. The city has a telephone system embracing three hundred exchanges, also an electric light plant, ice machinery, and is well supplied with water and sewage facilities. Business men, shop-keepers and clerks of the native class wear black cloth frock coats and trousers, while the foreigner is distinguished by his light clothing. The Paranense is as a rule rather small of stature and slender in form, his style of dressing gives an impres sion of youths wearing their father's Sunday clothes, the top-heavy appearance being heightened by the old style broad rimmed derby hat. Every Brazileiro can be distinguished by a small black necktie and shoes — ¦ long and narrow, made in France expressly for this trade. In dress, as well as in general deportment, there are no boys in Para, such as we know, who wear short pants and jackets. The only difference in appearance between father and son is in their relative heights as they wear alike the exaggerated cuffs, derby hats and carry canes or umbrellas. Little girls of eight and ten are young ladies, and at twelve and thirteen wives and frequently mothers. TROPICAL ATTIRE 37 Travellers to Amazonia should supply themselves with clothing usually worn by us in the summer, a large proportion of light underwear being advisable. An Englishman follows the East India custom of filling his "boxes" with light colored linens and seersuckers, in addition to his checkered trousers, never forgets his dress suit. A German may be readily recognized by his light tight-fitting clothes, while the American ashore astonishes the natives by an appearance in negligee or lawn-tennis suits of fancy light colored flannels cut in the style of pajamas, whieh are worn in that climate as night robes. Brazileiros of cultivated taste and independent manner as well as the older resident foreigners, wear white linen or silk serge all the year. The Padres or Priests go about the streets in cassocks that resemble Mother Hubbard costumes, each with cord around the waist to which are large pendent crosses and all wear three cornered hats. But a large majority of the negro or native children of the lower classes are not dressed at all. It is no exaggeration to say that a great portion of these chil dren have never Worn clothing. One may see babies from one to three years, belonging to the better class, being fondled by their parents in public in a perfectly nude state. It is a great country for babies, and a happy condition that the poorer parents are not obliged to be at the expense of dressing their numerous progeny. The travelling companion who may volun teer to escort a party of lady tourists through the town might find it embarrassing to explain the accompani ment of three of four brown-skinned boys of from four to eight, hanging on to the street cars. The drivers, 38 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW however, are more cultured. They wear trousers and (sometimes) a shirt; but as a rule few laborers add to their daily burdens by wearing anything above the black Stanley belt that holds up their overalls, no hat and never shoes. The bakers who make the daily bread of Para by the sweat of their brow, do nut encumber themselves with any clothes when at work. The climate and a hot oven are too much for them. The females of the lower class go about the streets without covering for the head to protect them from the sun. These women usually do the marketing for the houses where they are employed, carrying their pur chases in queer shaped baskets on the head. This habit gives them an erect and graceful carriage which one can better appreciate when viewed at a distance with the person walking away. A few of the descen- dents of the Indian negroes, called Tapansa, are rather attractive in face and figure, but they dress with little or no taste and resemble somewhat the field-hand col ored girls of the South. Their loud figured dresses are brief at both ends, no doubt with a view to economy. Some young Englishmen informed me that this outer dress is the only garment worn by them on the street for ordinary occasions. In Amazonia the class distinction is clearly defined, there being an upper and a nether mill-stone which grinds finely. This is not a color line, however, for here is found none of the prejudice against color which exists in parts of the United States. The only aristoc racy may perhaps be called a political, moneyed aristocracy. It is in no sense "blooded," though there is an inclination to magnify what blood can be BRAZILIAN ARISTOCRACY 39 ¦ traced back as far as two generations. Some of the "bluest" point with great pride to their Pocahontas grandmothers, whose oil portraits adorn the parlor walls of many of the most estimable families, and if these pictures are true likenesses, they may well be proud. One striking characteristic, not only of these portraits, but of the descendents of the higher class, is the almost perfect symmetry and regularity of the features, accompanied by a dignified and genial com posure. The provisional government of the Republic of Brazil decreed that those of its eminent citizens, upon whom the Emporer Dom Pedro II had conferred titles, should continue to enjoy them in an honorable way, under the new Republic until their death, when they ceased. In Para there are several resident Barons, very few of whom have not bought their titles. Dom Pedro always publicly defended this transaction by the char acteristic explanation that the money received from this source was used exclusively for the sustenance of lunatic asylums in Brazil. The inauguration of the Republic separated the Church and State, but the country remains substanti ally Catholic. The greater proportion of church attendants are the lower or poorer class. The more cultivated resident is content to allow his wife or daughters represent the family by attending service occasionally. The genial Governor of Para, with whom I talked on this subject, expressed the situation in broken English, "Oh yes, I am a good Catholic. We are all Catholics. I go to church about three times 40 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW a year, to a wedding, then a christening and then maybe a funeral; but my wife she goes every Sunday morning while I am sleeping." The custom of a noon breakfast has the advantage of allowing the native to indulge in the American habit of a Sunday morning sleep; but this is inter rupted by the early church service. Sunday is ushered in with a great ringing of church bells and the discharging of rockets that go up almost simultaneously from the different churches throughout the city and explode in the air with a loud report. The new comer, impressed with the reputation for revolu tions and imagining from the racket without that he is to enjoy this experience, hastily rises and upon inves tigation learns that it is a peaceful religious custom of the people. The probabilities are that he goes back to his bed or hammock swearing instead of feeling devout. During the ceremonials incident to the service of the Catholic church in Brazil, these rockets are fired from the plaza in front of each church. A Protestant resident insisted that this is their way of firing prayers to heaven ; but it is probably the result of a practice of the early missionaries, who found it politic to adopt this noisy method of devotion to influence the Indian worshippers. It is still practiced in certain parts as a means of expressing joy and glorification. A cour teous French Padre laughed heartily at the irreverent suggestion one evening as we sat together watching the fireworks from different churches sailing up into the darkness,that if there were any angels hovering around Para, the church rockets would have the effect of driv ing them away. Estrado San Jose — Royal Palms Facing Page 40 PECULIAR CHURCH CUSTOMS 41 The church bells are not "rung" as with us, but are hammered by half-naked worshippers who are well drilled from constant practice. They stand in the towers armed with hammers in both hands with which they tap the larger bells, creating a confused ding- dong-don accompaniment of the smaller ones; quite confusing and irritating. The devotional part of a Para Sunday does not however, occupy much time, the religious duties being satisfactorily performed by perfunctory attendance at one mass, limited almost entirely to the lower class of females who kneel in straggling groups on the stone or earth floor, there being no seats in the churches. There is no word in the Portuguese to express that sweetest of all words in our tongue, "home." The Casa, or house, is suitably constructed and planned for the half out of door life in that climate. No carpets are used on account of the dampness and insects. There are no door bells, and a visitor entering a hall must be careful not to knock or stamp his foot, as that would be insulting, the Oriental mode of clapping the hands, being the only method of calling attention. When lady friends meet on the street they kiss each other first on one cheek and then on the other, and when gentlemen meet after a short absence they always embrace, giving each other three pats on the back. It is the custom to shake hands when meeting and part ing, even if it occurs many times during the same day. They also adhere to the Spanish custom forbidding any lady appearing on the street or elsewhere unless accompanied by some member of her family, and my 42 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW own observation has been that this exaction is scrupu* lously adhered to. It should not be inferred, how ever, that the custom precludes pleasant social inter course. In almost every house of "the refined class may be met pleasant society of a hospitable and congenial character of both sexes. In this land of to-morrow everything seems to go by contraries. To find a cool climate you go south or north. One can only tell the season by looking in an almanac. The rule is to pass to the left; the street car conductor takes your money and gives you a ticket ; ladies wait to be first recognized by gentlemen. The stranger must be careful in making advances as such a small thing as handing a lady acquaintance a flower indicates in some circumstances, the offering of heart and hand, if she accepts the flower the contract is sealed in the presence of witnesses. Courting and lovemaking may seem somewhat restricted, as com pared with our free and easy ways, but notwithstand ing the difficulties, the young and old manage to get along in the good old fashioned way of marrying and establishing homes and building up the land of to morrow. As illustrating more clearly the reversal of customs I will add : An English gentleman, married to a Brazil ian lady, informed me he never kissed his wife till after they were married. We all know that with .us that custom is reversed, the kissing favors before mar riage and seldom after. CHAPTER III. T the present time and for some years all trade and transportation of the Amazon and the business of its cities, the State governments of North Brazil depend upon the natural pro ducts of the forests of the valleys, which is principally India-rubber, or as it is known there, "Borrachio," the traders7 name for the several grades'. It is well known that the best quality of rubber and the most abundant supply comes from the Amazon ; but it is not so well understood that the finest grade known botanically as "Hevea Braziliansa" (or commercially as "Para") is found only in Amazonia, while the "trade" is principally in the hands of the native busi ness men or Portuguese merchants, the extensive trans portation required for distributing the supplies and X!ollecting of rubber and sending to the markets of the world is in control of the English steamship and river transportation companies. Though called "Para," the greater portion of the supply now comes from a district in upper Amazonia (in Peru and Bolivia) which is as far from Para as it is from Para to New York. The Hevea rubber of the finest grade, known as "up river," is usually quoted at double the price of the inferior grades known as "Caucho " which is found 43 44 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW more abundant in Peru. Another variety of second quality is botanically "Castila Elastica" and commer cially ' ' Central, ' ' because it is the rubber indigenous to Central America and Mexico. There is not only a difference in grade, but in the matter of supply, the tree of the Hevea yielding twenty-five per cent more without injury than the Caucho and Castila which is destroyed in order to make a profit. It is a trite saying, that the best rubber is found in localities where human life does not long exist, in the swamps and steamy humid atmosphere that produces fevers, a fit habitation for snakes and alligators through which the native or Indian rubber gatherer must wade knee deep in mud and ooze to tap the hun dred trees alloted to each man, covering an area of about a mile, known as an "Estrada" or path. The Hevea tree grows spontaneously in the rich soil of the forests covering the low lands of the rivers, known as the flood plains, extending for unknown dis tances to the south. These lands are overflowed at certain seasons of each year to which fact may be attributed the peculiar qualities- of the Hevea not ob tained in other localities. The tree grows to a height of from thirty to fifty feet, a straight trunk, with a rough bark, the foliage being principally quite near the top. It matures in from fifteen to twenty-five years, reproducing itself by throwing out the nut or seed which grow three- in a capsule, with a cracking noise like the report of a pistol. A great many persons, even among the rubber inves tigators, suppose the trees are tapped for their juice as the sugar maples are for the sap, but the rubber RUBBER TAPPING 45 milk is not a sap of the rubber trees but a "latix" that circulates in small streams along the thin outer layers of the bark of the tree. The native gatherer goes over his Estrada in the early morning supplied with a lot of small earthen or tin cups. At the beginning of the season he taps as high as he can get, making little V shaped incisions with his matchette. Under each he fastens one of the little cups with a bit of soft gum into which the thick white milk slowly trickles until the wound in the bark heals, which may be in a few hours in a climate where growth is so rapid. In the afternoon he collects the milk in a large jar, which is then coaguh?ted on paddles over the smoke of a smudge made by the urucury palm nut. He repeats this operation every day during the several months of the rubber season. A matured Hevea tree in the swamp will give an average yield of five gallons of milk during a season, which will coagulate into five pounds of rubber, valued at over a dollar a pound in gold in the markets of the world. If the tree is carefully tapped it will give this result for forty years, without injury or cost of cultivation or labor other than the collecting of the milk and pre paring for the market. There is nothing comes out of the earth that will yield the net profits of the rubber tree that flourishes best on land of no value for any thing else. If, however, the hatchet in the hands of the careless native or Indian penetrates the bark, exposing the wood, the tree dies. A weevil called punhila, enters the wound, as a worm does the body, which causes speedy decay. 46 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW It will be seen, as first noted in my Consular reports, how easy it has been for the army of marauding rubber gatherers to destroy the available sources of supply on the lower Amazon. This ruthless slaughtering to gain increased output was encouraged by the town traders, who were eager to get rich quickly by supplying the wonderfully increasing demand for rubber insulation for the elec tric age, tubing for air brake tires, etc. This "killing of the Brazilian geese that laid the. golden eggs" at home, made it necessary to look for a new source of supply for the increasing demand. It "was to exploit this new territory that the exploration of the upper Amazon affluents was undertaken to Bolivia and Peru, of which the narrative is given here with. Rubber is next to the standard tropical imports of coffee and sugar, and the United States consumes one- half of the total output, equivalent to about fifty million dollars annually, for which we pay gold, always through English exchange, the money being used to buy in Europe goods for Amazonia. There is no reciprocity in rubber, but little being imported from America, except kerosene, flour and bacon, which their father land Portugal cannot supply. The state governments of Para and Amazonia exact an export duty of twenty-five per cent on rubber, which is received in our country free of duty as a crude material. It cannot therefore be charged that the tariff is the mother of the greatest of trusts, the rubber combine. The business in Para is conducted almost entirely by Indians Coagulating Rubber in the Forest Facing Page 46 RUBBER BROKERS 47 the agents of foreign houses, and a number of "brokers" who gamble on the "Exchange" quoted over English wire from London. All foreign business being conducted on a gold basis, a draft on London is more acceptable in Para than American gold. It may be said that our sister Republic of Brazil is largely sustained by the export and import duties which are collected on almost everything and to which the United States contributes a large share on coffee, sugar, rubber and numerous articles found in the forest on which only the labor is expended for col lecting. It is a peculiarity of that government that in many respects the states are distinct sovereignties. The states of Para and Amazonas collect and apply to their own use all export duties, while the general govern ment at Rio de Janeiro controls the custom houses and appropriates all import duties. This necessitates two sets of officials and it goes without saying that between the two millstones the grist is fine and the toll heavy. Rubber gathering being more profitable than all other labor, the population of working people go into the forests to the neglect of the cultivation of their rich soil. Almost everything consumed, therefore, is brought from abroad, a heavy import duty being col lected, and the laborer paid in cheap goods from Ger many sold to him at a large profit. It can readily be inferred that Para is a most expen sive place to live in, resembling in this regard, and also in the speculative tendencies of business, the early golden days of San Francisco. The retail merchants sell cheap goods at exaggerated prices. The cash business is 48 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW done in five and six figures, as represented by Brazilian paper money, reis and milreis, one thousand reis being equivalent to a milreis, which at par, is equivalent to fifty-four cents of our money. It is interesting to note that during the reign of Dom Pedro, the milreis, which was at par, has since steadily declined. The cost of living at a hotel is from six to ten milreis per day, equivalent to our two or three dollar houses with fair accommodations. Boarding houses are un known, as families do not admit outsiders into their homes. As illustrating the queer currency, one will be aston ished at a demand for four thousand five hundred reis for a forty-nine, cent shirt, and as it requires from two to four weeks in that damp climate for the laundry women to do what we would consider a day's washing it follows that a large supply of linen is required. A first laundry bill was in four figures, but when it is considered that one of the valuable looking greenbacks having engraved on each of its corners and on the margin the gratifying figures "$500" has only a pur chasing value of ten cents, the enormity of the bill is greatly reduced. # # # Being situated directly on the Equator, the climate of Para and the lower Amazon is unvarying. Every day of the year is alike, not only with regard to its length, but in its excessive heat. There being no change of seasons, one must consult a calender to know when it is winter. There are no sunless days in Amazonia. Each morning the sun rises out of the Atlantic, and like a great red copper ball, uninter- CLIMATE 49 ruptedly discharges its fierce electric waves of glaring heat ; except when shaded by the crimson-edged clouds for a short time in the afternoon when the rains come up. It is as hot in December as in August. The nights, however, are alike damp and comparatively cool. The sleeping apartments are kept closed at night, causing the tourist sleeper a mouldy sensation that one might experience from sleeping in a cellar. Clothing should not be thrown on the floor, but hung up high at night and aired daily in the sun to prevent mildew. Shoes left on the floor soon become covered with white mould, and one is apt to find a scorpion in one and a centipede in the other. Most of the population sleep in hammocks under the mosque- tare as the only covering. There is a wet and dry season, the former beginning in November or December, which they consider the winter. But there is no difference in the mercury; if anything it is a little hotter in the mid-day sun, the sheets of rain being more violent and frequent. These rains which are preceded by wind storms are refresh ing, serving to cool the parched atmosphere like a grateful shower bath, not only to sweltering humanity, but to all inanimate nature. Every one carries an umbrella as a necessary part of their outfit as a pro tection during the day from the rays of an almost vertical sun and in the evening from the rains or heavy dews which fall after dark. Twilight is quite unknown in this latitude. There are no romantic gloamings, but instead the sable cur tain of night rolls down upon the bright sunset as sud denly as that upon the mimic stage. 50 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW ' During the year there are innumerable holidays known as festas or church fetes, peculiar to each locality. The anniversary of the Patron Saint of Para, known as our Blessed Lady of Nazareth, is inaugurated by an immense procession, followed by a week of festiv ities in the large Plaza of Nazareth. These are the only evenings in the entire year that the senhoritas are permitted to promenade alone in the company of the senhors ; and it goes without saying that the senhors do not hesitate to ' ' embrace ' ' the opportunities. They are like the rest of humanity that believe "opportuni ties" should not be neglected but taken advantage of. They have also their days of lugubrious devotion. On Good Friday, for instance, everybody wears black as a badge of mourning. All Souls and All Saints days are devoted to tribute to their dead, the graves being decorated during the day with flowers, while at night the cemeteries are made to look like an illumination by lighted candles placed about the graves, before which are silently kneeling the scores of friends of the de parted. TT * -W As the geographies of our school days divide the surface of the earth into imaginary lines of latitude and longitude with temperate and intemperate zones, the medical geographers have likewise located the zone of unhealthfulness on the Equator, as an endemic centre liable to become epidemic. . As a matter of statistics, the death rate in the zone of unhealthfulness is. proportionately less than that of New York and London. Malaria, including pernicious fevers of all sorts, is HEALTHFULNESS 51 the disease which prevails in badly drained, heavily timbered locations. It is estimated that this is the cause of one-half the mortality of the human kind. These conditions are due on the lower Amazon largely to the alternating heat and humidity of the atmosphere which is augmented by the location on the low ground adjacent to the settlements. It is not only hot every day of the year, but, on account of the rains almost every evening and the fact of being practically sur rounded by fresh water, is correspondingly damp every night. These conditions do not exist on the upper Amazon. For the information of any who may contemplate travel to the Amazon necessitating passing through the valley of death of the lower regions to the better land beyond or above, I beg to reproduce some extracts from a consular report on the "Health of the lower Amazon," which it was not considered good policy for the government to publish, as it did not present an especially attractive field for the reciprocity then being agitated : "Febre Amarella, or yellow fever, by its different aliases is the disease of the country. It is caused no doubt, by a germ, which more particularly affects the white races, and has for a long time puzzled medical scientists. It was discovered by Columbus, or rather it discovered Columbus on his second visit to the West Indies, as historians describe the breaking out of the epidemic during their return to Barcelona, yet in all these four hundred years medical scientists have been unable to locate the isolated 'baccilla,' 'bactera,' or 'microbe,' or whatever it might be. 52 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW "It is said yellow fever does not prevail in the Eastern tropical countries or in Europe, being practi cally unknown in India, Asia and Africa. "For information on yellow fever and its treatment I am under obligations to Doctors Jose Paes de Cavalhi, at present Governor of Para, and Dr. Jayme P. Bricio, both for many years successful practitioners in Para where they have handled cases every day for years. Each received his medical education in Paris, and speaking English, they are depended upon by the foreign colony as experts in yellow fever. I am also glad of an opportunity to acknowledge, at this late date, the courtesy and kindness of my genial Brazilian friend, Colonel Theodosio Lacerda Chermont shown during my illness, as also the attendance of his brother the druggist, and Sr.Watrm. Col. Chermont is a large handsome gentleman of the best connections, his brother formerly Secretary of Legation at Washington and later Governor and Brazilian Secretary of State, which I mention to indicate the character of my authority for the following statements. "The Colonel was educated at Cornell and speaks well the English language and has a warm heart for Americans. "In discussing climatic conditions and the usual weather salutations, my friend enjoys reminding Americans that though Para has the reputation of being hot, the mercury does not rise as high as he has seen it in New York and the attention of scientists is called to the fact that a case of sunstroke has never been known on that part of the Equator. He insists also that proportionately there are more deaths from YELLOW FEVER 53 pneumonia in America than from yellow fever in Brazil. "It is known that if a new comer exposes himself in the sun, and should become wet and chilled by the evening rains and retires without changing under clothes, omitting to take the usual precautionary bath of cachasa or rum, he is almost certain to awaken at daylight with dull pains in the back of his head, intense nausea, which are the unerring first symptoms of the dread visit of yellow jack. "Unfortunately the attack is first noticed at an hour when the patient is probably unable to get assistance. It is understood that if taken in time, the system thoroughly cleansed by vomiting, purging and injec tions and the patient kept warmly covered, the disease can in almost every case be controlled. The malady seems to be a complete cessation of the functions of the bowels, kidneys and bladder, resulting in rapid fermentation, which generates a poisonous gas and brings about the convulsions and an agonizing death. As long as the bowels and kidneys act no danger is apprehended, but when these cease the physicians give up the case. "On steamboats or in the forests where medical aid cannot be obtained, it is the custom to cause the patient t^ drink repeated doses of warm water as an emetic, until the resulting vomit shows the stomach to be thoroughly rinsed. "A peculiar feature or characteristic of yellow fever is that it almost always selects for its victims those who are sometimes designated as the 'good young men' that come to Brazil to die early. It is indeed a 54 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW striking coincidence that the young foreigners of abstemious habits, who live economically that they may send their savings home, are sooner or later called upon to settle with yellow jack, while the 'bad boys,' who are indifferent, using the wine of the country internally and spirits externally, indulging freely in the best food the country affords, almost invariably escape with a light attack. "Aged persons have nothing to fear, which is at least one consolation for the few who grow old in that land. The only time I was pleased to be toid I was not a boy was when sick in Para when the French proprietor of the hotel early one morning sent for the doctor to visit me. I could hear him tell the doctor in broken English '0, zee Consul Americano, he's plenty sik, blenty sik,' meaning that I was very sick. When the jovial doctor came into the room, looked at my tongue, felt my pulse and in sympathy with my appealing look, which meant, have I a chance He replied in broken English that sounded very sweet to me then, 'You got notting, git up, you are too old to die.' "It is the full blooded young fellow who catches it every time, a characteristic of the disease being similar to typhoid, that whatever lessens natural vigor, tends also to immunity from yellow fever. As prophylactic the best physicians of Para actually prescribe, 'Wine and women,' iced champaign being used freely in the course of this heroic treatment. The moral is that the visitor to that land of to-morrow obtain the best that he can get as part compensation for the danger of liv ing there BERI-BERI 55 "It is not yellow fever, however, which causes the greatest mortality on the coast, but a disease peculiar to that part of Brazil and. Equatorial India which is known as Beri-Beri (pronounced Bery Bery approxi mately). This disease has baffled the skill of leading physicians of Para and Paris, who have studied it attentively. Pasteir, the great Frenchman, sent a scientist out to make an investigation. The origin of the disease is unknown. It probably developed among the lower classes by insufficient food, but frequently attacks those of the better classes. The only cure is a change of residence or an ocean voyage, either of which taken in time will effect a speedy recovery, a peculiarity being that the patient may go but a single day's journey to a place where the disease may also prevail and recover. "Beri-Beri usually begins with a partial paralysis of the lower extremities accompanied by numbness and a feeling technically called by these physicians, formica tion. The paralysis gradually extending upwards is attended by adamatous swelling, the flesh becoming as pliable as putty, leaving an indentation made by one's finger as though it were soft clay. At first the patient feels but little discomfort aside from the loss of parts affected. His appetite and spirits continue good but the breathing grows more difficult from day to day the paralysis surely advances until it reaches the vital parts. If relief is not obtained, death is caused by slow suffocation. Though this malady attacks all classes, a majority of the victims appear to be Africans of the lower class. "Tubercular consumption is necessarily extensive 56 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW with the lower class owing to the want of care and cleanliness and the prevalence of venerial diseases. "More than one per cent of the registered deaths in Para are from leprosy, yet it is not considered con tagious and no efficient means are taken to segregate the lepers from the rest of the community, it being impossible to estimate the number of cases concealed by the better dressed of the population. ' ' As previously explained, our government for reasons of policy, did not care to publish reports even though accepted as "interesting and valuable" that might dis courage the reciprocity plans. I was advised that the Rio government also protested against publication, though not denying the facts. The British government however, referred the matter of leprosy to a select com mittee for investigation in connection with the health fulness of the English Equatorial possessions, through my esteemed colleague, Mr. Kanthack, the British Consul. The purpose in introducing the excerpts from a health report has been to give a truthful story of both sides of life in the land, but more particularly that a comparison may be made between the unhealthful lower Amazon and the more desirable "Land of To morrow," or upper Amazon, whither we are bound in this narrative. In this connection I may be permitted to quote the concluding words of a first official report: "It will be evident to the Department that the publi cation of the health report might, in a personal sense, add to the unhealthfulness of ' Para as a Consular A HEALTH REPORT 57 residence and perhaps serve to increase the mortality list. ' ' I therefore take the opportunity to again call atten tion to my request for relief or the approval of my application for a leave of absence, with authorization to go to the upper Amazon to look after interests of this Consular district." I was not relieved, however, until after a year's enforced residence and while very ill was carried aboard ship in a hammock bound for the Madeira Islands and France for treatment and recuperation. ' ' Some months after, the journey as originally planned was resumed to "The Land of To-Morrow," the narra tive whieh really begins at Para and ends at its coun terpart, Lima, on the sunset side of the continent. CHAPTER IV. ESPITE the climate and the un- healthful surroundings, the visitor who stays long enough to become acquainted with the "delightfully wicked city" of Para becomes a victim to that peculiar fascination that attaches to tropical life; and though the discomforts sometime cause the sojourner a sigh for a change of season, they leave with regret and almost invariably experience a longing to return. As previously stated all travel to the Amazon is via Para, where steamers delay a couple of days or more, affording a tourist sufficient time to see the city before proceeding tip the river. In addition to the New York and Liverpool steamers, are the Lloyd Brazilerio ships that come up from Rio de Janeiro about once a week, and extend their voyage a thousand miles up the river to Manaos. Most passengers prefer the English boats because of the better accommodations and speed, making no stops in Brazilian territory until Manaos is reached. There are a number of local steamboat companies that operate on the several rivers, some of which go up the rivers emptying into the lower Amazon, as local trading boats of Para merchants, while others voyage 2,000 or 3,000 miles into Peru or Ecuador and ascend the affluents to Bolivia in the south, or reach to the 58 AMAZON STEAM NAVIGATION 59 borders of Venezuela and Colombia on the north. The Amazon Steam Navigation Company, an English corporation operating over fifty steamboats, sailing under the Brazilian flag, practically controls the navi gation of the Amazon. It may surprise even practical shippers by water to be told that there are fifty thousand miles of inland navigation comprised in the Amazon system, with its numerous affluents reaching throughout the great Amazon basin from the Atlantic to Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador and the borders of Venezuela and Columbia. The average mileage of the English company exceeds five hundred thousand miles. The local fare from Para, the present head of ocean going boats, to Iquitos in Peru, is about one hundred dollars of our money. The time occupied in the voy age depends on the steamer, a steamship doing it in eight or ten days, while a steamboat will consume a month beeause of the stops. One may go yet another thousand miles beyond Iquitos in comfortable small steamboats and still another thousand miles in steam launches and canoes. In order to better see the country I took passage on one of the regular river boats for Manaos. Through the courtesy of the manager of the company at Para, Captain Hudson, the Portuguese captain was directed to afford me all possible facilities. My ticket reading to "Sunset," was the genial captain's card handed me as I was escorted aboard by some English and Brazilian friends. The Amazon boats are modeled quite similar to the bay or sound steamers, but perhaps they show a more 60 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW squatty, English model of greater width than our river or bay craft. They are not built for speed ; time not being so important a consideration in that land of repose as is the consumption of coal, which is imported from England and Wales at a very great cost. Woodv fuel may be had for the asking at any point, the forests crowding the shores every mile, but for reasons of policy, coal is used exclusively and brought from Eng land, none being supplied from the more convenient sources of the Mississippi. Naturally the English com pany patronize the home product The boats are admirably adapted for the handling of the cargoes, the lower decks being arranged for storing of the valuable rubber beyond the reach of the pirates, and the carrying in bulk of Brazil or cream nuts, cocoa (not cocoanuts) and other solid freights. The after decks are open all around like Mississippi River cotton boats, where cattle, horses, sheep and the native laborers are carried. The steamers are built in England, fitted with Scotch boilers and compound engines. Those running on the main streams are iron or steel hulls, with twin screws; whereas the smaller boats that ply in the numerous tributaries are pro pelled by patent feathering paddle side wheels, that are adapted to waters where there is no ice. Though the boats are quite as large as our river craft, the smallness of the wheelhouse and width make them resemble the "ducks" they are sometimes called. The upper decks are well adapted for traffic under the Equator. A few staterooms are located in the centre open on each side to a roomy promenade deck. There are no saloons, the tables being spread on the after .t* An Amazon Steamboat Facing Page 60 STEAMER SERVICE 61 deck, under awnings. When necessary to protect this canvas covered saloon from a driving rain or wind storm, or to shade from a morning or evening sunbeam, the side curtains are let down. On very hot afternoons the captain becomes a rain maker, cooling the roof of canvas and decks by what he calls " ar-tiff-i-cal' ' (with the accent on the "tiff," artificial) rain, produced by the steam pump and hose. The captain or commandante (kom-man-dantee) is a very important personage. He occupies a room for ward adjoining that of the "Escrieva" or clerk, and convenient to the "Immediato" or first officer. The half dozen small rooms are occupied by ladies or the foreigners who have not learned to sleep in a hammock. A Brazilian is known always as a Brazil eiro, while a citizen of Para is also a Paranense and a resident of the adjoining state of Amazonas whither we are bound, is an Amazonense. Whenever a citizen of the upper or lower class travels he invariably packs with his necessary baggage a hammock, or as it is called tliere, a "rede," and never forgets the mosquetare or netting which is arranged to spread over the rede as a canopy for protection from the mosquitoes which swarm on the boats when not moving. Literally the people of that land take up their beds and travel. Hooks are especially arranged on all steamboats as in the houses, for convenient swinging of redes. The first business or concern of a passenger when aboard is not for a room or a seat at the captain's table, but to select the most desirable place to hang himself up. They do not wait till night, but at once stretch their 62 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW hammocks, don slippers and pajamas, or negligee trav elling costumes and otherwise settle themselves for a comfortable trip. During the long days they lounge gracefully in their redes, smoking cigarettes, laughing and chatting incessantly to one another in the happy, childish manner peculiar to that people. If it becomes a little cool at night or the moving steamer creates too much draught for their thin blood, they shiver and snug themselves in more covering like a bug in a rug, as the Englishmen call the travelling shawls. There is never any contention or disturbance in a mixed company of this people. All may sleep, rocked gently by the boats swinging the hammocks, or lulled by the rounds of the little paddle wheels. The pilot house and steering wheel are located well forward in the bow on the cabin deck. Each boatLhas one or two short masts to which they may rig a sail when desired. There are no coaling stations and if a boat becomes disabled she must sail or drift along until a passing boat comes to her assistance. A voyage on the Amazon is very much like being at sea, while coasting along the green shores of tropical islands, where the scenery becomes oppressively beau tiful by reason of the heat and quiet solitude. The course of the boats after leaving Para is through the labryinths of cut-offs and the Breves channel to the main river. Every hour of the day, for a week, seated in a reclining steamer chair with both feet on the rails, one can enjoy a beautiful moving panorama of rich and gorgeous foliage in coloring and outline beyond power pf description. The innumerable tints of the green and SAILING UP THE AMAZON 63 the bloom seem brighter on tropical trees than on shrub bery. Dense undergrowth of climbing, clustering vines, making tangled jungles that would seem to impede tigers and jaguars and affording protection for snakes and creeping things. Above it rises the tall ' ' castania ' ' or Brazil nut, on which monkeys are always to be found feeding on the fruit that grows in a capsule. When a boat passes they chatter as only monkeys can. There are always in sight some of the many varieties of the pajm. Water birds are plentiful, especially, the crane, from which the valuable aigrette feathers are obtained. Parrots, which are hunted as game, fly high, always in pairs, while the parraquettes go in im mense flocks, making more noise than blackbirds. The dullness is sometimes relieved by thei pilot report ing to the captain "jackaree," which I imagined was some sort of an obstruction as it caused all hands some stir. I could see nothing but what appeared like a floating log, which proved to be an alligator which the captain fired at with the American Winchester, which all pilots carry as part of their equipment. It is no reflection on this firearm to add that I have seen hun dreds of shots fired at them but not once did I have the satisfaction of knowing they took effect. There are thousands of miles of this same panorama, a truly moving picture, stretched along both sides of the banks of the great yellow river from the ocean to the Andes, varied now and then by some cacao orchards that appear in scattered settlements, after the first five hundred miles of the lower flood plains have been passed. When the sun drives the passengers from one side to 64 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW the other they see precisely the same scenery, which in a degree is the same for thousands of miles. Every year during the months of May and June the water is unusually high, overflowing the adjoining low lands for hundreds of miles. Because of this increased current the ascending boat is compelled to hug the shore sometimes so closely that overhanging branches of the trees could be reached ; but we were practically out of sight of land because of the overflow, except when stopping at some little village situated on an occasional elevation. The Amazon does not impress one as being a river. It appears more like journeying on an inland sea where islands are as plentiful as water. Our boat seemed to be always passing through some short cut or channel. The islands are so numerous and the cut-offs so frequent that the main land is seldom in sight. Each time I enquired I was told the boat was passing an island. Again we were in a broad expanse of yellow water with the land in the distance like a bay, and the next hour in a cut-off so narrow that it would be dangerous to pass a boat coming down the rapid current. We make a short- detour into one of the rivers to reach the town of Mt. Alegre, an historic settlement on the only bit of high ground on the lower Amazon, except the bluff at Santarem, views of which are shown. The voyage up is frequently covered in half the time occupied by the river boats, for the ocean steamers with their greater power and greater draught necessi tating their keeping in the middle of the stream where AN INLAND SEA 65 the current is greater, can not take the risk of the numerous short cuts that are open to the lighter draught paddle-wheel boats. When the flood is at its highest it is possible for large canoes to make cut-offs through the forests, or "capo," as it is called, for hun dreds of miles. I repeat one mile on the lower Amazon is the same as a thousand and every day is alike for the entire voyage. It is the same, sea of forest, dense, pathless and impen etrable and when covered with water all animal nature is driven out, the solitude is as dense as the steamy humid atmosphere. Following the bent for comparison, it may be said that like everything else in the way of customs and climate, even the topographical features are reversed. The forests, instead of water, cover three-fourths an area as pathless as the ocean. The great Amazon out lines a mere pathway of yellow winding through an ocean of green waving foliage that seems to grow out of the water. The Amazon basin proper has never been explored. Notwithstanding the numerous books that have been published in all languages on the Amazon, it is indis putable that the writers have been confined in their observations to what they have been able to discover from the decks of boats or obtained second hand at the landings. What lies beyond, in the thousands of miles of unat- tempted forest reaching to the mountainous interior dividing it from the Plate Valley to the south, no man knows. The rivers have been traversed by canoests, but the forests have been an impassible barrier. In 66 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW that land of rapid growth it is not possible to maintain an open road. It is said of the hunters and naturalists that the pathway they blaze in one day the next day is entirely grown up behind them. The Amazon forests to the south are therefore yet a sealed book whose pages must be cut and turned by the Stanley of "Equatorial America." The few settlements of rubber gatherers on the lower Amazon are built upon piles to protect them from the annual floods. The water at this time not only encircles the houses but is so deep that the use of a boat is required when the inmates want to visit and feed the stock which collects in peaceful droves with wild animals on any. convenient high ground. It is this peculiar condition that enables the native to capture wild animals weakened by starvation. So it happens that even this inconvenience of being washed out of home every season, results in the return of his bread cast upon the waters. The floods last a month or so and it is said the waters always begin to recede at the same day and hour each year, which is known as St. John's day. Santarem (pronounced in the Portuguese, San-ta- raim),is a beautifully located town at the mouth of the Rio Tapijos, which flows from the south, having its source in the mountains of Brazil. The water is quite clear and cooler than the muddy Amazon into which it is absorbed. As its name indicates, this is considered a healthful location, there being an absence of the malaria that pervades the Amazon below, and strange as it may appear, yellow fever is unknown. But notwithstanding its favorable location the American ATTEMPTED AMERICAN SETTLEMENT 67 colony of Southerners who settled there after the war, has been altogether unfortunate. Mr. Rhome, the wealthy Southern planter and leader of the enterprise, who so hospitably entertained the American visitors on the beautiful hillside near Santarem, became a men tal and physical wreck after several years' residence there, as described in an illustrated article in an American magazine some years ago. One of the saddest features of a residence on the lower river is that continuous residence without an occasional change of scene, weakens mentally as well as physically the hardiest Anglo-Saxon. The English managers of the transportation and other business, recognizing this condition, have wisely stipulated with those they bring out from England, that each person shall be required to visit his home once in every two or three years, a vacation of six months being given to all English employees who serve in Brazil. An exploration of the Tapijos to the south might be as interesting asthat of the rivers to the west. In this direction is a species of Brazilian ant more vicious than the Indians and so numerous that they actually compelled the abandonment of an Indian village, the empty houses of which are still standing. Though I am only vouching for the things I have seen, I believe this is no exaggeration, as I have had experience with ants which justifies this opinion. At Obidos, a point a little beyond Santarem, I have been in the old Spanish fort, which the mosquitoes compelled the Brazilian soldiers to evacuate. This work covering acres of ground of massive masonry was 68 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW abandoned on account of the pests, who attacked viciously, armed only with the weapons provided by nature. It is proper to explain that there was no mil itary necessity for the garrison remaining in the fort, the walls of whieh kept the breezes from driving the pests away, so they camped outside the walls, and the mosquitoes held the fort. Obidos (pronounced O-bi-doss, the accent on the "doss," which has become sort of a pass word, the man ner of pronunciation detecting the stranger, who accents the "bi") is the dividing line between the States of Para and Amazonas, of North Brazil, each of which maintain an independent sovereignity. It is five hun dred miles above Para, but even at this great distance, the influence of the Atlantic tides is felt. It is the only point on the big river where both banks of the Amazon may be seen at the same time. Though the river at this point is not so wide as at other places, there is such an immense depth that the entire volume of water flows rapidly between the banks. It is well to remember that the country below Obidos, including the numerous islands, tributaries and main stream, is known as the "Lower Amazon" rubber territory. Beyond Obidos, including the Ma deira and Purus Rivers, extending to Bolivia and Peru is an immense rubber territory, but at, and above Obidos, on the main stream the rubber has been exhausted and labor is being diverted to the cultiva tion of the cocoa, which is becoming important and may in time replace the rubber industry. The Madeira, the principal river of this section, flow ing from the south, being a continuation below the falls MADEIRA AND NIGRO 69 of Mamore and Madre de Dios of Bolivia, enters the Amazon at a point with the big name Itiocuitara( pro nounced "Iteo-quat-you are-a"), which means painted rocks. It is located a few miles below the confluence of the Nigro that has its rise in Venezuela and Columbia, making at these junctions broad expanse of water resembling a bay. A few miles above the confluence of the big rivers is the inland city of Manaos, occupying geographically and otherwise relatively the same position to the Amazon that St. Louis does to the Mississippi. On the morning of the eighth day the slow going Amazon boat enters the black waters of the Rio Negro on which Manaos is situated, anchoring in the harbor that is six miles wide, one thousand miles from the Atlantic. CHAPTER V. ANAOS is not a new city, having been founded by the Jesuits in 1667, but it did not attain to the dignity of a settlement until 1755. It is built upon the gentle slopes of seven hills and is well laid out. The main street is a broad, well paved thoroughfare rising at a moderate grade and extending to a driveway which leads through a beautiful suburb and park on the surrounding hills. Many of the business streets along the water front are conveniently low for the handling of the heavy traffic, yet higher than the resident part of Para. The busi ness houses also in the downtown section, are larger and architecturally superior, being generally of more modern style. The residences are modeled after the European plan and are more pleasing to the eye of the American visitor than the monotonous Portuguese architecture. A number of fine streets cross the main thoroughfare at right angles, forming the usual city blocks, instead of the straggling crooked and narrow streets. Manaos is the capital of the large State of Amazonas, comprising an area greater than the State of Para. It is not possible to give any correct data as to population, there being no reliable census returns available, but the city is estimated to contain about half the population of Para, and rapidly growing. No amount of enquiry at Para will develop anything 70 THE ST. LOUIS OF AMAZONIA 71 favorable to its rival city; in fact, correct information cannot be obtained of the interiors, at any of the coast cities of Brazil. The business people, desiring to con centrate the trade at Para, are exceedingly jealous of the rapid encrouchments of the inland town upon their old time monopoly of the trade of the valley. Like Para, its principal business is in the handling of the rubber which comes down the several rivers in small boats or large canoes and here, after paying the export duty, municipal and other charges for the State of Amazonas, it is marketed and reloaded into the ocean steamers, sailing directly to foreign ports. Articles from up-river districts do not pay tribute at Manaos or Para unless handled on Brazilian soil. Cacao (pronounced "Cow-cow"), which is being ex tensively cultivated along the rivers adjacent to Manaos, is brought to this market in large quantities by the small boats. The business of supplying chocolate for confections and as a beverage bids fair to equal the coffee industry of South Brazil. Castanhas or nuts, hides, balsams, and corresponding natural tropical pro ducts are shipped directly to the Brooklyn wharves. Though we consume an enormous quantity of the pro- duets of the Amazon, but little is done to advance American trade in exchange. Altogether Manaos is a pleasant surprise to the vis itor who has heard it decried at Para, both as regards location, business and social features. Probably the climate is even hotter than at Para, if it were possible to get nearer the sun than under the Equator. Being so far interior, Manaos does not enjoy the refreshing evening rains that come up from the ocean and cool the 72 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW air, consequently the nights are hot, but not so damp. Occasionally they have yellow fever which in most cases is brought to the city by boatmen who contract it on the low lands or by exposure to the alternating heat and dampness. Manaos has excellent water, gas and electric plants, telephone exchange, several clubs and a driving park for horse racing after church on Sunday afternoon, instead of bull-fighting. Unlike Para, where the English colony dominates the business, the foreign traders and merchants are prin cipally German, with a large sprinkling of Jews. At the date of my several visits there was not a single American resident. Socially the Manuense are fully up to the standard of the Paranense. In musical culture they probably excel them by reason of the number of educated Germans, most of whom are accomplished musicians and perhaps because of their isolation, they devote more time to the practice of the music of the fatherland. At Para the music is of the Italian school. The swell social club named the Club Limitado, which I had the pleasure of visiting is quite on a par with the delightful and very select Assemblae Paranense. There is also the inevitable Cathedral and an Opera House, both patronized by the people, and the same attention is given to religious festas. It happened that on July 4th, the birthday of liberty on the North American continent, which has spread over the Southern, I was in Manaos, where we cele brated in the genial society of a Scotch gentleman who was the United States Consular Agent at that point. FOURTH OF JULY ON AMAZON 73 The Stars and Stripes floated languidly in the hot sun, and in compliment to our own and the American visitor, the officials of Brazil displayed theirs as also did the French Vice Consul, who was the proprietor of the hotel. As an evidence of advanced civilization it may be said that one can pay as large hotel bills per day on the European plan as at the swellest American hostelries. Para has been compared to New Orleans because of its low situation near the mouth of the river and its surroundings of fresh water. Comparisons may be carried further and just as appropriately by calling Manaos the St. Louis of this valley. Like the western city Manaos is 1,000 miles from the mouth, being situate in the very heart of the great Amazon Valley. It is the geographical centre of commence, admirably adapted by nature for the collection and distribution of the products of the most productive section of the earth's surface. Ships may sail directly from Manaos to St. Louis, via Para and New Orleans and vice-versa, laden with the different products of each for exchange. Though the Amazon is deeper it is entirely practicable for boats that can go to St. Louis to navigate the gulf and go even a thousand miles beyond Manaos, in several direc tions. It is about one thousand miles due west to the head of steamship navigation at Iquitos in Peru, another thousand miles north by the Nigro to Venezuela, Columbia and the Carribian Sea by canal over the portage or channel connecting the Amazon and the Orinoco. 74 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW The Madeira, like our Missouri, enters the Amazon a short distance below Manaos. Steamboat navigation to the south, extends to the Falls of Mamore, 500 miles distant, thence by canoe portage over and around the falls, above which there is navigation another 1,000 miles on the rivers Beni and Madre de Dios throughout the rich cis-andine Bolivia, the tributaries reaching to the southwestern Andes and the great divide which separates the Amazon Valley from the unknown Motto- Grosso land in which arises the Plate. The large river Purus (Poo-roos) emptying into the Amazon above Manaos, is navigable for large boats far into the southwest beyond the borders of Peru. Unfortunately Manaos is situated up the Nigro some six miles, off the Amazon proper, which compels the immense traffic down stream, from the large affluents like the Madeira, Purus and Upper Amazon, to ascend the Nigro for their clearing papers to the custom house for the State of Amazonas which collects the tribute of all rivers above Obidos. There has been some agitation in favor of moving the ancient capital of Manaos six miles below to the junction of the Amazon, which is the Cairo of the valley. The American traveller to those countries finds it difficult to adapt himself to the annoyances resulting from the visits of custom house and health officials of each state and the governments of Ecuador, Bolivia and Peru. The hungry officials swarm about every ship like sharks. It is apparent that the existence of the several governments depend upon the revenues they exact from the export duty on the indigenous products lb __, J,, - ; ¦- . ¦ SB^JHo*"':y'i Sick in the Tarapota Hammock physician that ministers alike to the spiritual and mortal body. A benevolent faced old man in cassocks, soon ap peared at the side of the hammock and taking the hot hand of the stranger looked up as he muttered a prayer in Latin, which I interpreted "Lord receive this de parting spirit." His gentle manner served to soothe PADRE AND PATRIARCH 203 me, as he spoke in Spanish in a pleasant and encourag ing tone, all the while feeling my pulse. Turning to a patriarchal looking old man with long white beard who had accompanied him, who I thought was a friar or monk, they discussed or consulted in an undertone not intended for me to hear, but that I knew related to my condition. To my amazement the patriarchal looking monk, coming closer to my side, addressed me in English in a kind and fatherly tone that by its sudden familiarity dazed me for a moment staring about wildly as if just awakened from a troubled dream, by a voice I recog nized but could not see the speaker. I had not heard my own tongue spoken except in the broken English of the interpreter for many many days and weeks rolling into months. Upon realizing the situation, I was so delighted that I attempted to rise that I could embrace him. The old man laid me back tenderly, taking my hand in his while he assured me that I was amongst friends and would be cared for. The visit had a most salutary effect, seeming to bring to mind the kindly words of a father to a prodigal son, whose love had followed to the under side of the earth, recalling home, the weary hearted, wandering, tired boy. After some inquiries about myself, such as would be addressed to a dying stranger, this old man feeble and tremulous with age told me his name was -"Adolpho Page," the son of an Americano, who long since came to Peru, as he said "from Columbus in Massachusetts or Massachusetts in Ohio, it being so long ago, he could not remember which." 204 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Subsequently he told me something of his own sad life, which I am sure may interest the reader someday, because of its strange truthfulness, the correct names being given, it is quite easy to investigate the facts. This son had been educated in England and subse quently became the Minister from Peru to the Argen tines, living in the gay society of Buenos Ayres, but for some years had exiled himself in this inaccessible and beautiful valley, where he had earned the love and respect of all the people by his kindly and generous disposition, being the right hand man of the Padre in all missionary work. While chatting with the old patriarch, the Padre had sent for some old woman to whom he gave direc tions about myself. I was required to take a medicine which the Padre ordered the woman to prepare. Though there are no drug shops in that part of the land of to morrow, all out of doors is in a sense, a great apothe cary's garden, where prescriptions may be filled from the best of the materia medica, ingredients -gathered fresh from the leaves and roots of the forest. The old Jesuit missionaries obtained from the Indian medicine men during the centuries they have been among them the secrets of the natives' same wonderful reme dies, which the present Padres practice and preserve. The principal article or that which we hear most about is "cinchona," the plant from which Peruvian bark is obtained from which quinine is made, known all over the world as the remedy for malaria. There are other wonderful remedies which we do not perhaps give proper credit to the forests of the land of to-morrow for producing, in addition to the balsams, sarsaparilla, CHU-CHU-WASSA CURE 205 copaiba, coco, from which cocaine is produced. In this case the treatment was for inflammatory rheumatism, the details of which I give without any expectation of return, but simply in acknowledgment of the benefit afforded to myself, with perhaps the effect of saving my life. The Padre ordered the woman to go to the adjacent forest to collect some of the bark of a. certain tree, the name of which I did not record but the bark is generally known as "chu-chu-wassa" as it is spelled and pro nounced, being recognized as an article of commerce in the villages. I could not obtain any definition of the name, but I found that every place I went from Atlantic to Pacific, chu-chu-wassa was known and val ued as highly as the "Quinia-quinia" or bark of barks. The attendants peeled the inner bark off in strips or chips, which were put into the pure rum of the sugar cane in proper quantities to secure a strong solution. In that land where rum and bark are so plentiful, no provision is made for extracting by pressure, it is sufficient for their needs to have the rum reach a deep red color. This is taken in gulps or swallows of a gill as often as the patient desires, but his wants are not urgent as it is about as bitter a dose as can be concocted. As a regular morning toddy or bitters chu-chu-wassa would delight an old toper, and I imagine cause a cowboy to jump four feet high, clap his heels and yell with delight. Further on I was compelled to take the "Andes cock tail" in the early morning as a preventive of fevers, which is composed of quinine bark in gin, considered 206 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW hard to take as it is both bitter and nasty, but the chu-chu-wassa has a bitter taste peculiarly its own and once tasted is never forgotten. Any one who sips the Indian rheumatic cure has drained their cup of bitterness to the bitter dregs, but they are surely relieved of the rheumatism. I drank deeply of the stuff in a reckless way to get relief from pain. I told the Padre the rum went to my head and the red stuff to my feet, and certainly reached the right spot. I was cured of the inflammatory rheumatism so quickly as to be surprised, and in a short time so thor oughly built up that I was ready to proceed with the journey before the Padre thought advisable. The rem edy is also a tonic, while the leaves are used as poul tices or applications for sores caused by poison vines or bites of snakes. CHAPTER XIV. N official passport is not at all a neces sity; a stranger may travel in perfect security throughout the land of to morrow even as a tramp, without a letter and be well treated everywhere. A simple letter of introduction, how ever, written on a large sheet of stiff paper, with display letter head and a red seal at the bottom addressed to an official, will secure more con sideration than a letter of credit, or a treasury bond, a statement of fact that is not as much a reflection upon these people as on our civilization. It is not to be inferred, however, that the people do not want money. They all do, but the business part of a visit is always an after consideration, settled to the satisfaction of the guest. I had been well supplied with letters which a number of Spanish friends along the route volunteered to give me to others at the next stop. These became so numer ous that the little hand grip I carried for toilet articles, became a mail bag. On arrival at a stopping place I simply handed over my bag of mail for the officials to pick out their own. As they handled some fat letters addressed to officials in Lima, the mail bag became of itself a strong endorsement. Amongst my mail for Tarapota was a letter addressed to a young business man or planter in the nature of a letter of credit, or an order from his correspondent in 207 208 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Yurrimaguas to supply me with mules and provisions to continue the journey. I thought this the most im portant of the lot, but so little attention was paid to it by the recipient that I thought my endorser was dis credited. The principal obstacle to travel, the hustler will en counter, is not the bad trails or lack of facilities but the apparent indifference towards matters that we may consider pressing business. The officials retain the old Spanish feeling of dignity, which is always coupled with kindly courtesy, and the natives have learned the lesson by contact and are never in a hurry about any thing, absolutely never. It is a delicate matter to press the officials and maybe dangerous to crowd the Indians. I had intended going through Tarapota in a day but the illness disconcerted my plans. When able to walk about the town I felt it" was time to move on to the next stop, at Lamas, a day's ride, and gave the neces sary order for the Napo to interpret. But the Napo had the Spanish laziness and the native stupidity, and during my illness was having a good time, posing as an "interpreter" amongst the other Indians and was in no hurry to leave. I learned also that the officials had concluded that my illness would result in my abandoning the trip over the Andes, in this they reckoned without their host. In .order to add to his own dignity and importance, the Napo abused the privileges given him as interpreter, by exaggerating to the natives the position of the "Americano." I had no means of knowing the nature of the yarns he told in his Indian dialect, but I could see from the curiosity and actions of the Indians and LETTERS OF RECOMMENDATION 209 his behavior toward them that I was being represented as a character entitled to as much consideration as the President. There was certainly a different bearing when we were together in the company of those to whom I was able to make myself understood. The Indians do not often speak Spanish, each tribe using a separate dialect, but all seem to know the Indian universal tongue called the "Keecha" as it is pronounced, but sometimes spelled "Quincha," learned from the Inca, to which I have referred and may have occasion to mention again as we reach the land of the Inca. Though the Spaniards conquered and made Christians of them, he has failed to make Span iards of them. Tarapota may be described as representing in reality one of those hidden valleys of rare loveliness that one sometimes reads about in the novels as the abode of the fanciful characters depicted by romantic writers. It is only one of the many beautiful valleys that may be found in the Land of To-Morrow. The traveller wearied and sore from the tiresome toiling over the mountains, who may be carried into its restful shades, as I was, would be excused for imagining that this region, near the centre of the earth may have been part of the original Garden of Eden. The valleys are doubly secluded, in the sense that they are in the very heart of the South American con tinent, being hemmed in from the outside world by immense mountain barriers rising on all sides like rugged, precipitous stone walls, covered by a prickly cacti hedge, forming natural obstacles that may only be 210 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW overcome by perilous climbing or the creeping around and cutting a path through the bush. The valley immediately around Tarapota in outline is crescent shaped, probably three leagues across and in length as far as the eye reaches, toward Moyabamba valley. On either side are the mountains, spurs of the Andes, known as the "Cordilleras" or foot hills, their sides covered with the luxuriant foliage of the tropics. Through the valley the beautiful Mayo river flows toward theHuallagua by a long tortuous course through mountain gorges, and rapids almost impassible for even a Chasuta canoeist to navigate in safety. Few go down and none attempt to ascend the rapids. The Mayo receives a number of smaller streams from the mountains of clear cold water, tumbling down over the rocks in sufficient volume to drive machinery to con sume the innumerable products of the rich soil. While I cannot give the exact altitude, in figures, it will probably be sufficient to explain that it is the first step or terrace up into the garden of the Gods as it were, that are formed by the many valleys of the Equator where everything grows in luxurious abun dance. The last or highest step into valleys beyond reaching an elevation of two to four miles and above the line of vegetation, where the only animal life that exists is that of the solitary condor. The reader will note that though the narrative practically follows the line of the Equator westward, the changing altitudes (since leaving the rivers) gives the varying climates of the necessarily widely separated sections of our land. It is possible to find three or four climates in these Equatorial valleys and mountains all within the same LATITUDE AND ALTITUDE 211 latitude and longitude the deep valleys blooming eternally with the rich growth of the tropics, while the table lands near the base of the mountains approach our temperate zone, reaching to the limit of vegeta tion and over all the snow-capped peaks. There are no uncertain changes in climate in this latitude from day to day or month to month, all the days being alike near the Equator. In the rich soil of Tarapota pine apples grow wild. I have seen them in the cultivated gardens of the natives reaching ten pounds in weight and have heard of them weighing twenty pounds. When allowed to ripen on the plant, they furnish a fruit that for luciousness may not be equalled anywhere else on the earth's surface. They become mellow and rich and are eaten with a wooden spoon or cut in two and held to the mouth while the juice is pressed out furnishing a delicious drink of cool nectar fit for the gods. It is not only famous for the pine apples, or "pee- neys," as they are called, but every miserable mud hovel may be surrounded by groves of orange and lemon trees, the delightful fragrance from which serves to make life endurable, even in an Indian village, and that is saying a good deal for the climate. Tobacco of a very strong quality and fine flavor is grown in Tarapota and if cultivated might excel in reputation that from certain districts of Cuba. They have a peculiar way of preparing tobacco for market by wrapping the natural leaf tightly with split bamboo similar to the withes we see tea boxes wrapped with. These take the form of cigars four, five or six feet long and about three inches in circumference, a form that 212 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW seems to preserve the weed and make it handy for market, the tobacco being sold by the foot or yard. Cotton grows wild all the year round, the plants be coming young trees upon which the young Indians climb to pick the boll which the women spin and weave into a coarse cloth used for clothing. Practically everything may be grown on one farm or hacinda of this wonderful valley, fruits of the tropics in the valley, cotton and sugar and tobacco on the low lands as also coffee, with potatoes, corn and wheat on the foot hills of the mountains, while the everlasting snow-capped peaks supply cold water, and if desired cold storage and power from the overflow to make use of products that cannot be consumed. Yet practically nothing is cultivated except the few articles necessary to sustain the straggling natives. Though they could raise in this valley sufficient to sup ply the lower Amazon with bread stuffs as well as mut ton and beef, it is not attempted because of the inac cessibility and difficulty of getting over the mountains to the river, a day's portage to reach navigation and the market beyond. There is sufficient water power wasted every hour, in the numerous mountain torrents, to generate electricity sufficient to operate double track systems of narrow gauge railways to carry all produce to navigation in a couple of hours. The town of Tarapota is a dilapidated, deserted village nearly all the available male population having gone to the rubber forests where they find profitable employment for a few months, abandoning their health ful homes because of the temptation offered for making CAUCHO VS. RUBBER 213 a little money rapidly in the unhealthful rubber swamps. They are generally disappointed in the realization of their hopes, though the earnings are con siderable they are induced to part with it readily for cachasa or rum. Instead of sudden wealth and inde pendence, they become the slaves of the traders by reason of their debts brought on by riotous living. Many of them perish from the fevers always prevailing in the low lands, which are fatal to the native who comes down from his mountain home. There has probably been an army of five thousand of the bone and sinew, of the young men out of this vicinity of the valley of Tarapota alone who have gone to the forests, armed with their matchettes, becoming enemies of their country, ruthless invaders and de stroyers of the caucho tree of Peruvian forests. The caucho, though a species of the rubber, is different from that which is found on the lower part of the rivers, known as Para or Hevea, whieh is more gregarious in habit usually found in groups enabling the gatherer to collect the milk at certain seasons. The Brazilian gatherers pursue a method which does not destroy the rubber tree. The Peruvian native treats alike the rubber and the caucho. The caucho being widely separated in the forest, the trees when found are felled, from the bleeding trunk of which its blood or milk is drained into pools in the earth prepared for it, where it is allowed to coagulate by evaporation, or it may be facilitated by adding alum or common soap, which makes a vile smelling compound worth about fifty cents which represents the value of a tree. There is a refuse or dripping mixed with an 214 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW earth, leaves or other foreign matter that is called Sern amby (pronoLinced "Surnam-bee") which is a third grade of rubber. There is a sernamby of both rubber and caucho. Crude caucho is formed in slabs resem bling in appearance thick black hides from which the fur has been taken. Sernamby is usually in the shape of strippings formed by the gutters or channels carry ing the milk from the tree to the pools. The Peruvian government which is paternal in its character, claiming to exercise authority over the in dividual in all relations of life has been singularly remiss in its want of care and foresight in permitting the destruction of caucho, which was one source of future wealth, by these armies of half breeds who go into the forests, leaving their old men and women at home to cultivate a poison to destroy another great source of wealth in the supply of fish foods. As this subject was fully outlined in Consular reports and personally brought to the attention of the Peruvian authorities, it is perhaps unnecessary to burden the narrative with it. In a romantic vein, I would say to any enquiring friend as to the opportunities for immigration or the inauguration of business enterprises, that in extensive travel all over South America, I have not seen a more inviting field than is afforded in the delightful valleys of the upper Amazon provided always that the emi grant makes up his mind to be content with practical isolation from the world. Being hemmed in the in terior by three ranges of the Andes on one side and five thousand m'iles of Amazonian forests on the other, is worse than being isolated on an island of the Pacific. EXPLOITING OF FORESTS Caucho Gatherers in Peru. 216 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW A party of young farmers and mechanics might fol low the route of this narrative and if well provided with implements and energy, take up large tracts of land, which may be had for the asking, upon which they could live comfortably in a glorious climate while awaiting the development of the land of to-morrow, which must come. x I might add parenthetically, that American boys — blondes preferred — if possessed of blue eyes and a vigorous constitution, will have no difficulty in finding helpmates from among the many beautiful senoritas who have been left alone in that paradise by reason of the exodus of the male population to the rubber forests. (It will be noticed I do not recommend the Anglo- Saxon to stop in the rubber forests.) There are senoritas and senoritas, even in that out of the way region, and the American accustomed to good society at home might be surprised to find some families in this remote land who are quite exclusive and aristocratic in bearing and as exacting in their intercourse as are some of our own people who probably have not as much to stand on. The settler need not be a pioneer woodsman com pelled to fell trees, he will find miles upon miles of the richest pampa or prairie soil in the valleys waiting for the agricultural machinery to replace the ridiculously crude implements of the natives, which have been used for centuries to good advantage, but the increase would be doubled by modern appliance with the expenditure of less labor. There are no frosts, no droughts, no grasshopper and other insect plagues at that altitude, and no uncertainty AGRICULTURAL POSSIBILITIES 217 as to returns, because there are two and sometimes three crops in a year. The settler will grow his own corn and potatoes and while resting from his daily toil, he may literally, smoke in his pipe of peace, his own tobacco, and sip delicious coffee made fresh from the berries grown on the plants in his own yard. Or if he prefers, his dark-eyed senorita will serve her lord with a cup of the richest cocoa grown on his own land, and sweetened with sugar crystalized from the cane which grows so wildly abundant, that it is not culti vated or gathered except for the manufacture of the pure rum of the country. Milk, which does not seem to be used much in those lands, may be obtained from the herds of goats, or cows could be bred for milk, as with us. There are disadvantages, aside from isolation, that are in a way as great obstacles to American colonization and as difficult to overcome as are the mountains themselves. The Peruvian government is most liberal in its con cessions or grants of land and homes to actual set tlers from all countries, Americans being especially welcomed, ostensibly, without regard to race, color or creed. Yet it would be impolitic to attempt to locate anywhere in that country, a class of people who desired to be recognized as antagonistic to the established religion of that country, which is that of the Roman Catholic. Neither should foreigners go there, and insist upon the natives adopting their manners and cus toms, nor to criticize and reverse conditions that have existed for the centuries. Substantially the church and the state are one and the same in Peru. As the exis- 218 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW tence of each depends upon the other, they may be relied upon to stand firmly together, not only in Peru, but in all that land. The state officials are not at all zealous in defence of their church, in fact I do not recall overhearing an official express an opinion on the sub ject, beyond an admission of his Catholicism,, when questioned. The Padres or priests are seldom bigoted but as a rule are most courteous to travellers offering without question the hospitalities of their houses, and as they are of the best and well stocked for good living, I made it a point to look up the Padre at every stopping place. The masses of some of the interior villages are fanat ical and disposed to excesses but are easily controlled by the Padres. It should not be inferred that one reared a Protestant is inclined to eulogize the Catholic religion, especially the practice as I have seen it in the lives of some of the priests of those countries, but, as a disinterested journ alist, who has enjoyed their hospitality and lived safely amongst these once savage cannibal Indians, I am glad of an opportunity to record my testimony to the facts, that to the missionary efforts of these Padres, during the centuries, has resulted in the redeeming of this beautiful land and the people from barbarism to a con dition of civilization which may be incomplete but in many respects equals that of our own boasted civiliza tion. In discussions of this subject, I have frequently been reminded by friends, that the teachings of the Catholic church does not develop or advance a country remain ing under its influence; perhaps this is more largely a IMMIGRATION 219 question of latitude or climate and of previous race con ditions, than of religious influence. The Spanish peo ple will answer that if the Anglo-Saxon had occupied this southern continent and they the north the condi tions would be in their favor, they claim that we do not give our superior climate the proper credit for its influ ence on our lives. These people claim that they have done better for the Indians of this continent than we have ; that they were not killed off to make room for our ad vancing civilization. They say the Jesuits did not kill, but through centuries of patient self sacrificing toil, unassisted by home missionary societies, they have labored successfully and disinterestedly for the im provement of the Indians. Under the circumstances, liberal Christians of other sects, can scarcely censure these people for protesting against the importing of over-zealous missionaries who tell the Indian that their previous religious training has been false. During my illness I was visited by a number of the good people of the village. In looking over my note book, which I sometimes used as an autograph album, I find among the names inscribed that of the good old curate or the Padre of Tarapota, who was also the kind physician to minister to the body, in clear char acters remarkably well done for his great age, Jose Eusobie Cuipal, Cura de Tarapota, and also that of a colleague from a neighboring village, whom he brought in to see the sick Americano, Amadeo Chumbo, Cura, Pachiza. A frequent caller was the sub-Prefect of the district, middle aged Spanish Don, well posted on the doings of the outside world whom I found most congenial. He 220 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW supplied me with a good bit of valuable information about the mineral wealth of the surrounding mountains. But this not being in sight, like the natural products of the forests and the agricultural possibilities, I can only recite the testimony of these gentlemen of repute, who insist that the gold and copper ores, which they exhibited, are more valuable than can be estimated, and the location possesses the advantage of being easily accessible with good natural drainage and abundant water power to operate. It is certainly an extra bonanza to find gold in a country that supplies every thing else that is needed to make life happy. I record the sub-Prefect's note from my note book, in his own hand writing, referring to the location : ' ' Sinami Pampa situada ol Cerro de Santa Domingo." Also the names and addresses of two Spanish miners, in their own writing namely, Elias Linares and Luis Felipe Del Castello Cerro de Francona. During the pleasant evenings, while recuperating, it was my habit to sit on a bench outside of my door, with note book in hand at times, or a pad of paper whiling away the tedious waiting hours writing out matters just as they occurred, whieh are reproduced in this narrative in the same spirit in which they were set down at the time. The Indians were always curious about my writing and frequently came close enough to look at the pencil marks; to amuse them I would make rough sketches, which they could understand well enough to laugh. They called me "The white man who talks with his hands," They could not be made to comprehend how TALKING BY A BOOK 221 it was possible for any one to read out loud what I would put on paper. The Napo afforded me a good bit of amusement by his absurd attempts at imitating the Americano. When I would take a seat on the bench to fill up my journal, he would squat on the ground on the other side of the doorway, with a piece of soiled paper and a pencil, he begged from me, which he kept most of the time between his lips wetting it so it would make a blacker mark on his paper. He could not form a letter but he made the Indians think he could. It afforded me lots of fun to see him scratch his head, look wise at the gaping Indians standing around and with a sigh as if something was hurting him, begin to make pot hooks on the paper. I humored his conceit by pretending that he should keep an account of the change he got to buy supplies, from which I think he was making enough percent to buy his rum besides. He could not make the figures, but had a system of markings that I think lied as easily as himself. It will seem incredible to even a small school boy or girl that a big Indian, man in statue and strength cannot count beyond five. They all do their transactions in copper coins of one cent denomination, and it sometimes requires a shopkeeper to use barrels for money drawers. CHAPTER XV. ECOMING impatient at the indifference shown about preparations for continu ing the journey, I ventured to intimate to the young business man, to whom I was endorsed for an outfit, that I wanted to go forward, to which he replied smilingly, "Oh, no, no, senor, we cannot allow you to leave us for some weeks yet. ' ' To my look of surprise he continued, "You must first ride with me over the valley, as there are many people who desire to see the Americano." I protested and insisted that I must go west, he bowed himself off, jumped on his pony, leaving me standing there in distressing uncertainty. His neglect of busi ness was explained by the sub-Prefect, as resulting from his being in love with the prettiest and richest senorita in the valley. He closed his shop every morning, riding off to visit the lady, returning late at night. The Napo also confided to me the gossip that the people would like to have me remain among them indefinitely, intimating that I could have a choice of senoritas, which I think was a lie, in his own interest. The Padre and other friends thought I might not be able to stand the hardships of the trip until I should recuperate, and some of the friends thought it would be better for me to return from that point to the Amazon. These contingencies did not occur to me, I concluded that neither a love-sick Don, or a genuinely 222 ENFORCED HOSPITALITY 223 sick American, should deter me from going forward, as intended. On making known to the sub-Prefect my determina tion and the business delays, he at once arranged for -my departure, the experience proving the statement made previously, that it is always best to make arrange ments for progress with an official duly authorized. Any plans looking to dependence upon private contracts with individuals however reliable in themselves, are almost sure to cause trouble and embarrassment. Con tracts of every kind should have the approval of an official. It happened that the sub-Prefect's Indians, of the Tarapota tribe, were at the time ' ' in f esta, ' ' that means they were celebrating one of the numerous "feasts" known as San Christoval. On these occasions all take part. The women for days in advance occupy their time in preparations, especially in making the curious cakes that are baked in queer ovens, located in palm tree groves, where they assemble to do this work. For the week or during these "festas" it is out of the question to get one of the tribe to do any work. The Peruvian officials wisely avoid interfering with these customs, making no attempt to coerce, but rather humor the practices. It became necessary, therefore, for the Prefect of Tarapota to send ahead to the village of Lamas for a draft of the Indians of that tribe to come to Tarapota to carry my luggage out of Tarapota to their town, which was not "in festa." The morning after the interview with the Prefect I was awakened from a troubled dream early by the 224 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Napo, announcing that a party of Indians were out side "demanding" as he interpreted "eager"' to see me. I opened. my sleepy eyes in a half frightened way, on seeing a half dozen bare headed and bare legged Indians, staring in their stolid way, not one making any effort to speak or by gesture indicate their wants. The Napo explained that they had come to "carry me away," which I found meant that they were there in obedience to the Prefect's order to take myself and be longings on to Lamas. They asked me but one question, "How much cargo?" or "show the carga" as the load is called. They don't contract by weight, but rather on the convenience of handling. My stuff was scattered over the earthen floor of the room and looked as if it would take a good bit of packing, but in a short time everything was in bundles on their backs with which they trotted off as silently as if they were stealing. The Indians of one tribe do not care to remain long in the country of another, especially when a festa is in progress, therefore the festa of Tarapota, instead of delaying, served to facilitate my departure, because the Lamas Indians were anxious to give their neighbor's festa a wide berth. After morning coffee, I mounted a saddle mule in front of the casa, which a rich senora had kindly loaned for my use and a pack mule was supplied for the Napo. The sub-Prefect, Don Delgado, and the citizens gen erally, came around to have a farewell "salute senor" and to express their well wishes over a parting cup of "chu-chu-wassa," I rode out of the old town gaily, for a sick man, followed by the grinning Napo. The "camino" as the trail is called, and the only ON THE MOVE 225 highway of all that land, is nothing more than a path, such as a line of mules at single file will make. The mules and the files of Indians that are constantly using it, are the only road builders, there being scarcely any work done on the camino by the authorities, beyond the necessity of keeping down the rapid growth of under brush, that would conceal the trail in a few days, if not used constantly. Our camino led through the upper part of the valley, a mere swath cut through a thick growth of immense cane and bamboo so tall that I could not touch the top with my riding stick. About noon we forded the river Mayo, resting in a grove on the other bank for the coffee and mutton breakfast that had been prepared in advance. . My note book says the afternoon was in tensely hot because of our route being through this dense thicket of cane and bamboo that excluded the air. We met a family comprising husband, wife, boy, girl and a baby en route to Chasuta, with whom we exchanged the usual greetings, taking the opportunity to send regards to Senor Sandoval and Adelina. Toward evening we cross the divide by the rocky trail into another valley. Along the edge of one of the hillsides were a group of Indians in camp along the trail, com prising old and young men, women and numerous chil dren." The males stare indifferently at our approach, while some of the old women offer gourds, containing a drink, which the Napo recognizes as "guirapa," a decoction of half fermented cane juice, that for pun gent, delicate flavor nearly approaches champagne and equals Jersey cider. On his urgent representation that it was not real rum, but only the juice fresh from the 226 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW press, I first tasted sparingly and then drank all there was in the gourd. I advise any travellers through that wilderness to make a note of the name "guirapa" that they may avoid this insidious, devilish, Indian compound or fire water which caused the first trouble I had on the camino. Soon after we separated ourselves from the hos pitalities of the Indians, the Napo and his mule began to have trouble, causing me some apprehension and delay because they did not seem to know the road as the rest of us. He was violently drunk, and of all drunken persons that I have seen in many lands, this half wild Napo on a mule on the Andes made the greatest exhibition of himself and the effects of guirapa. We were in a narrow defile, and perhaps the altitude increased the light headedness, the rum bringing the worst nature of the Indian out. Luckily for me per haps, the rum exaggerated his respect for the "Ameri cano," his admiration being increased to an offensive absurdity. He insisted on making speeches, demon strating the' greatness and glory of America, of which he was really proud when sober. I could do nothing with him, and as the Indians from the camp were attracted by his ferocious bellowing I anticipated trouble and rode off with my escort of Lamas. A little way ahead I unconsciously ran into another scene, an Amazonian forest fire, that for terrific and superlative fierceness and surpassing grandeur in de structive effects cannot be portrayed by pen, and scarcely excelled by Dore in his conception of the in ferno. While yet some distance from the scene, we saw great volumes of smoke, with occasional spits of flame A FOREST FIRE 227 darting from behind the hills. My Indians hesitated, but being anxious to investigate I rode ahead alone, when I was halted suddenly by a blast of hot air that caused the mules to swing around so quickly as to almost unseat me into what seemed like the crater of an active volcano. We could see through the dense smoke of burning green leaves, the half naked forms of a lot of Indians, their copper bodies blackened, running about yelling like imps of the hell they had made of that part of the earth. The great flames fanned by the drafts passing through the narrow defile attacked tall green trees causing them to blaze up as suddenly as if they had been paper, the green leaves crackling from the heat and the flame like fireworks or continuous musketry fire. Riding back hastily, I found my Napo in a heated controversy with a lot of the Indians who were follow ing him up. I realized at that moment that I was literally between two fires and figuratively on the very edge of hell. The Napo, wholly indifferent to the fire in our front, turned to meet me, his wild eyes actually fiery and red with insane rage, declared in a loud voice that "these Indian dogs had insulted you and America, and he would kill them and die himself for me," for which I should have been profoundly grateful at that moment. But on the principle of taking the bull by the horns, I rode up to him and in plain English, in a loud voice, mixed with disgust, anger and guirapa, gave him to understand we had other business on hand and he must shut up. 228 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW The Indians who had collected evidently concluded from my animated conversation that I did not appre ciate the Napo's efforts to boom America, and passed the matter off, as the effect of too much fire water, and turned in to fight the fire in our path, while the Napo slunk to the rear completely cowed. The fire was caused by a squad of Indians who had been sent out to clear the trail, through the thicket, and in burning a swath, the flames had gotten beyond their control. After the fire had burned itself out we rode safely over the blackened earth and before the day's sun had set, arrived in the town of Lamas, the destination for that convoy. We slept in the "Government House" in Lamas, which is considered the best house in the town, which in severe plainness resembles an adobe prison, or a dug out to protect cattle or sheep from wolves at night. The four walls covering some twenty feet square, are constructed of the mud or dark clay blocks, molded into the shape of immense bricks, composed of a mixture of clay and dark earth, giving them the same uniformly dark color throughout the country. Straws or the tough fibre of some kinds of grass, are mixed in the clay along with pebbles and sometimes quite large stones. There is said to be a remarkable simi larity to the material used for building in Egypt. There does not appear to be any cement or lime required to give it adhesive properties, yet these build ings have withstood the weather for hundreds of years, in all this land, due in part to the fact that there are ADOBE AND BAMBOO ARCHITECTURE 229 no frosts and but few changes in the weather, except to the wet and dry seasons. The material is mixed on the ground near the pro posed buildings, as we do for mortar. The blocks are moulded separately on the walls, the pressure necessary to exude the moisture being applied by the stamping of the Indians ' feet or the blunt end of a stick of wood. They are altogether sun-dried, the rapid evaporation in those altitudes facilitating the work. As each brick or layer on the wall must be hardened before the next course can be added, the problem of the construction of a building of several rooms, always of a single story in height, becomes as much a question of time, as that of some of our tall government build ings of granite blocks. The work only progresses when the sun shines; when the rainy season comes all building operations cease. There are, however, no labor unions or strikes to interfere with progress. The roofs of even the mud huts are always of the palm thatch, which is woven in graceful outline on rustic rafters extending three or four feet over the walls, forming a style of well balanced irregularity in crude architecture that the modern builders do not seem to approach in lines of beauty The capping or topping off of the roofs seem to com pensate largely for the uniform ugliness of four square walls of mud. If any fire is required the smoke must find its way out through the roof, which also preserves the thatch and answers to prevent the numerous insects from making it their homes. For light and incidentally ventilation, a hole in the wall of the dimensions of a prison window, is left, in 230 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW the shape of a peep hole, long and narrow, so that neither a man's head may be put inside, nor a woman's look out. The adobe is usually occupied by the Spaniard or de scendent who settles in the towns and constructs blocks or rows of these adobe walls, usually in the form of a hollow square, all opening into the court or plaza. This formation gives better protection, as well as more sociability. The Spaniards separate casa or house is always constructed on the same lines, opening into the "patio" or inner court. The Indians' bamboo and thatch is more picturesque and for that climate more comfortable than the heavy walled adobe that is liable to be damp in the rainy season. There are none of the annoyances that our house keepers experience from broken or soiled window panes. In all that interior of the land of to-morrow the use of window glass is unknown, and I may add, unnecessary. The weather is usually so balmy that an open window is a daily comfort. Neither are there any doors such as we know. The plan of each house provides for a single entrance. As there are no boards or lumber in all the hundreds of miles of forests of mahogany and cedar, except perhaps some short lengths that have been brought on mules or the backs of Indians from the coast, for making of rude table tops or shelves. The door space of the Government House was a wicket, made of a number of heavy sticks of bamboo held together by withes of vine-like fibre as tough and flexible as wire. Though pliable it was strong, the A DISTRESSING INCIDENT 231 uprights of bamboo added to the prison-like appearance of the house. At night it was closed with a cross bar, a necessary protection from any straying wild animals that might have been attracted to the place by the scent of the provisions. A sad incident occurred at this place which will illustrate the need of missionary enterprise that will introduce some practical appliances with their teach ings. The reader will recall the young girl dying with consumption who started with us on the "Sabia," and whom we afterwards met and saluted in the canoe. In walking about the village of Lamas in the early morning I was surprised and gratified to meet her brother, the courteous young Spaniard, who had brought her over the mountains, strapped to a chair carried gently on the backs of the Indians to this sani tarium in hopes of prolonging her life. To my cordial greeting and inquiries as to his sister's condition, he responded in the Spanish, which seems to express more fully than the English, the spirit of devotion and love existing between brother and sister. He said "every pulsation of his heart was a pang of grief and regret that he had so long delayed the coming to Lamas." He could not give further expression to his feelings, but one could see through the film of the tear down into the solemn depths of his large black eyes, that he realized that he must soon go with his sister to the world beyond. His words emphasized by the deep hectic flush on his dark cheek, indicating that the grim monster had touched him with his pink brush. Feeling sure of his sister's death, he was at that moment making the preliminary preparations, express- 232 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW ing his distress to me. that in all that land, he could not find enough plain boards to make a rude casket for the reception of her body. Lamas is a well-known sanitarium, where the afflicted from all over Peru are in the habit of isolating them selves, and to arrest dissolution from consumption. That but few deaths occur at Lamas, may account for the lack of facilities for caring, for the dead. It is a town where there are but few burials, but which may be called a living grave yard. Perhaps the peculiar location has something to do with the remarkable san itary conditions. The town or camp is built on the point of an isolated bench of land, which juts out from the mountain, like a peninsula, into a valley of waving green foliage. The point is of reddish clay, entirely destitute of vegetation, several miles in area. From the earliest recollection the place has main tained a remarkable reputation, as being the one place on earth where consumptives may live to old age, which probably accounts for the name given by the people as "The consumptives' paradise or heaven." It is not denied that they do die here sometimes, but only such as come to the place in a dying condition, the only claim of the Peruvian physicians is that the progress of the disease is arrested by a residence. The altitude is con siderable above that of Tarapota, but not so great as Moyabamba, the temperature uniformly the same every day of the entire year. The nights are cool and pleas ant, the air dry and warm, permitting the people to move about in the sunshine of the days, that are unusu ally dry, as but little rain falls, whieh fact accounts for the barrenness of the knoll. On all sides throughout the CONSUMPTIVES' SANITARIUM 233 valley a species of palm is indigenous not unlike some of our pines, through which the breezes come tempered and perfumed. As Lamas was not a particularly attractive stopping place for me, and desiring to get away as soon as possi ble, I enlisted the Napo's aid through exciting his dull comprehension into a scare of contagion from consump tion, which I made him believe was as infectious as small-pox, one thing of which every Indian entertains a holy horror, and at an appearance of which he will abandon wife, child and all he has. On account of the escapade on the trail, the day previous, I had, by way of disciplining him, assumed a severe attitude towards him, the dignified silence and uncertainty of my action had a more subduing effect than the threats of turning him over to the Governador. He considered it a privilege to eat his rations alongside of or with me, to deny him this or to withhold recogni tion of himself as "interpreter" humiliated him before the other Indians. After breakfasting alone in sullen silence, he approached with his old hat in hand, in supplicating voice, ridiculous by his absurd words and manner, began his apology: "I salute you, Major?" Then followed an awkward pause, as I declined to notice him. He continued abjectly, as he twirled his sombrero in his hands hesitatingly, muttering, "I am ashamed of you, Major," he meant "ashamed of him self," or ashamed on my account, which break in the interpreter's English caused me to part with my assumed dignity and laugh, which served to re-establish the entente cordial. He gave me his hand, promising faithfully never to touch another drop of "guirapa," 234 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW which I think he meant at the time, but we will see what happened the next day. I made good use of his peni tence for the time by enlisting his interest in whooping up the departure, sending him out on the trail to deliver letters to the Governador, and to make representations on his own account, of the necessity for haste. The next relay covered a journey of seven or eight days over the principal range of the Andes chain, to Moyabamba, and it was necessary that we should be well equipped at Lamas. As usual, we encountered the Governador 's plea for a few days' delay, in order that the Indians might prepare their food, etc. I took the Governador to one side, tendering him a fee in the way of a few silver soles, explaining my anxiety to get to Lima on official business, but really nervous to get out of the consumptives' heaven, no matter where or how we got away. The Napo assisted in this, urged by the same motive, telling the Governa dor a number of lies about the exalted character of the Consul Americano for whom he was interpreter and guide. I think that old Governador believed I was an Ambassador from the President of the United States to the President of Peru, and feared that I would make complaint about his unpreparedness. I assured him that I should speak a good word for him to the Presi dent on reaching Lima. I volunteered to buy provis ions for the Indians to avoid the delay of preparation, all of whieh served to clear the way for our departure the next morning. The Governador kindly offered the loan of his own horse and saddle for my use, for the first stage of the journey, a small Indian pony being also provided for DIFFERENT TRIBES 235 the big Napo, though it is the custom for Indians to walk and carry carga, while the traveller rides, the Napo provided for himself as my "interpreter" entitled to consideration over the ordinary Indian. Four peons or Indians of the Lamas brand were de tailed as my escort through to Moyabamba, some six days' journey afoot, at the usual rate of less than one sole or half dollar per day for each Indian or pony, both being rated the same as beasts of burden. All agree ments are scrupulously carried out by the Indians, there being in my experience no cause for complaint, except from over indulgence towards the peons, who, however hard it may seem to put on paper, should be treated with the same consideration and kindness an owner shows to an animal who serves him faithfully. As a rule they do not resent what may seem like harshness and some of them seem to show as little sense of appre ciation as a mule. There are, however, many excep tions. In general the tribes look alike though each have some distinguishing characteristics, in the way of their make up, that marks their tribe. The Lamas do not wear hats or shoes, and have a peculiar daub of paint or tatoo, as well as of dialect. One of my escorts of Lamas was a stalwart young fel low, whose sinewy well knit frame shown by the half- nude dress, his body inclining forward under the bur den on his back constantly reminded me of the pictures or statuettes representing Atlas carrying the world around on his shoulders. In conveying the heavy packs and bulky burdens on their backs, the Indian inclines th'e upper part of the; 236 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW body forward at an angle of about forty-five, that he may more easily maintain the centre of gravity. If the load is cumbersome, or bulky, he may guy it by passing straps around his forehead to help hold in place. How ever weighty or bulky the loaded Indian trots along the rough camino all day cheerfully, and lays down his burden in camp and goes off fishing or hunting half the night. CHAPTER XVI. NLY three Indians reporting in the morning, the Governador ascertaining that the fourth was too drunk to travel, settled the impending delay by deciding that the three assume the burden of four, offering to divide the pay of the four amongst the three. After lifting, to test the weight of the carga, it was agreed to and the bundles assorted and strapped to suit themselves were quickly gathered up, they started off, leaving the fourth to be dealt with by the Governador. The chief of our squad was an elder brother of Atlas, rather short in statue but quite muscular, who had brought along on his own account his two boys, bright little fellows of eight and ten years, each of whom carried on their backs packs, composed princi pally of the provisions of the Indians. As soon as the papoose begins to walk their training begins by putting packs on them. There was also an old grandfather Indian, who joined the party, probably as a means of keeping his joints loosened by a tramp of eight days, with his two sons and grandsons. He was consid ered too feeble to pack anything but a gun. As usual, the entire village, including the Governador and the squaws of the escorts, assembled to see us off. The gayly caparisoned horse of the Governador, recognizing a stranger on his back, began to cut capers on the village square to the entertainment of the crowd. 237 238 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW My early training in Western Texas and later expe rience as a rough rider with Custer as an officer of the Second Cavalry, easily gave me the victory. The per formance, however, seemed to add to my importance in the estimation of the Indians. With many adios to the Governador and the crowd, we rode gladly away from the consumptives' heaven over the hill and down into a valley that came near to being an Indians' hell. We followed the Indians along the trail or camino westward through a narrow valley for several hours before reaching our first halt for rest, and the noonday breakfast. Here the first and only serious trouble I had with Indians was fermented, I may say, by my own indiscretion. I had given the Napo some money to dis tribute among our quota, as a further inducement to hasten our departure, intending that the money would be used to buy provisions. But they had spent the money instead for rum, one having succumbed inglor- iously before we started, but the rest had cunningly concealed their supply till they got beyond the reach of the Governador. At this the first stop gourds and skin bottles were produced from hidden recesses that would have puzzled an old soldier accustomed to smug gling whiskey into camp. It was no use to threaten and order them to stop drinking. The Napo, speaking from experience, said the only thing was to let them finish their supply, and then wait till they should sleep or fight its effects off. I was rather alarmed to see they did not have enough to cause them to become stupid and sleepy. After a lot of parleying and pow-wowing they started off. Atlas, with my box on his back, staggered along yelling DRUNKEN INDIANS 239 like a wild man on the war path, though the road was rough and in some places dangerous, he never hesitated in his dog trot. To my expressed apprehensions about my trunk he would go faster as if to convince me of its safety, and reaching a defile or ditch, leap nimbly over or recklessly skip from rock to rock across rushing streams that of themselves made me dizzy. For some reason, not easily explained, the Indians as a rule treated me with more consideration than they usually gave to a stranger. They really disliked the Napo, because he was of another nation and disposed to to put on airs, on account of his association with the white man, as interpreter. They always addressed me respectfully, as "padrone" or patron, as they sound it, which means father or superior. In my protests to Atlas, he would stop his chatter, and in a drunken gutteral try to let me see it was all right and no harm would come to my box or to me, and in an humble appeal beg for more "cassy" padrone, "More cassy, padrone." The only English word he knew was ' ' cassy, ' ' for rum. His brother was less sedate in his drunkenness, occupy ing himself in absurd antics for the amusement of his two young boys. They had also tasted of the cup, and capered around like a pair of Peck's bad boys. The old grandfather was a boy again. The other fellow was inclined to be sullen, and wanted to sleep, which exasperated the Napo, who had imbibed enough to make him ugly, notwithstanding his promise of the day previous. The maudling lot of drunken Indians disgusted me so that I rode ahead, leaving the Napo to bring them up. I had probably gotten only half a mile ahead, 240 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW when I was halted by hearing a terrific yelling followed by a gunshot. On the spur of the moment I wheeled suddenly, intuitively drawing my revolver, galloped back without stopping to consider what would be best. On the top of the hill were clustered the Indians shout ing and gesticulating threateningly at the Napo, who sat trembling on his pony, bare headed and cowed, or begging for mercy. The old grandad, with gun cocked, and pointed towards the.Nap'O, on seeing me rushing towards them, turned and pointed threateningly at me. In moments of sudden danger or excitement I have been fortunately able to remain cooler than when anticipating trouble. My good luck served me in this emergency. I did not attempt to check my horse, but in pure desperation, whipped up to a charge, feeling that it was safer at close range, rode my horse right over the old man, knocking the staggering fool over. Realizing that I was the only one armed, the gun not having been reloaded after the shot that had called me back. But I also realized that five barrels of a small revolver against six drunken and frenzied savages would not avail me alone on the top of the Andes. Some good angel whispered into my ear as I hesitated for a moment, "It's your fault; rum and the Napo is the cause of the trouble." Turning to the Napo, pointing my pistol in his face, with an anger born of desperation, demanded that he make amends or I would sacrifice him. I could not talk to the Indians, but they saw from my action that I was not of the same mind as the Napo. The old man had gathered himself up and with reloaded gun at a support, wildly savage towards me, would have A FRACAS WITH INDIANS 241 fired but Atlas, who had thrown off his load, seeing his father's fury, sprang towards him, snatching the gun from his hands and fired into the air the load intended for me. I owe my life to the Indian Atlas. Though this is described as only a row with drunken Indians, who were harmless when sober, it was an experience that 1 would, go a long ways around to avoid. The balance of the day I rode behind the Indians, the better to protect myself by a retreat if necessary. The old grandad who was hard to appease, carried all after noon in a threatening way, the matchette, or long sword knife. Realizing that he was being driven as a dis armed prisoner to the next town, he attempted once or twice to slip back to Lamas, but for reasons of policy I preferred to take him along. The Napo was so com pletely cowed that he would have been of no use to me in a fight. This affair served to detain us on the trail until after dark, when we groped our way down the side of a mountain and entered the village of Chenoa, located in a little valley alongside of the river Mayo. Here we again reported to a Governador, simply requesting shelter for the night. I felt apprehensive about our safety during the night, if the treacherous old Indian could get at enough cassy to make him ugly or induce others to help him to seek revenge, and was careful to have the Governador give me a house in which we could secure ourselves. We spread our blankets on some rude benches of a large room used as a house for meetings or festas. The Governador did all he could for our comfort, but I con- 242 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW fess to a feeling of nervousness lest the entire village might be fired by rum to rise against us. Though we laid down to sleep lulled by the peaceful ripple of the river that tumbled over the rocks, we passed a night of horror never to be forgotten. Though rolled in blankets above the floor, the discom fort was increased by the knowledge of dampness by the foul air of the place; to some observation about its unhealthfulness, the Governador indifferently observed that a recent freshet in the river had made all the level ground thereabout alike swampy, and he could do no better for us. The nervousness was increased by the bats, darting about the light, which we put out as a matter of protection, but the silence broken by the crawling or running of lizzards over the walls, was increased. They are small objects, but able to impress themselves very forcibly on one's presence even in the dark when on the walls or ceilings imagining they move their heads about as if to see whether it would be safe to jump on the object below. The river's overflow had also the effect of driving the snakes from the lower levels to the higher points, on one of which the hut we occupied was located. I was aroused from a restless half doze by feeling something cold on my forehead, which I thought was a bat of the vampire sort, that bite the sleeping animals, sometimes causing death from the exhaustion of the blood of the victim. Covering my head with the blanket for pro tection was equal to slow suffocation. In despair I determined to sit up the balance of the night. Groping about in my bare feet on the damp earthen floor in search of a match and candle from our luggage which A NIGHT OF TERROR 243 was piled on the floor, I imagined I frightened some rats that had been attracted to our provisions. They scam pered off, as I accidentally upset some of the luggage. I found the match, after the usual hunt for such things, and striking it on the box with a crackling noise, the sudden light revealed to my already strained nervous ness the horrible fact that there were snakes on our bed room floor. I had not been drinking any guirapa, not even chu- chu-wassa. The snakes I saw were genuine, crawling, wiggling, lively squirming objects of terror. The light had the effect of scattering them and me too. I dropped the burning match as if it were a bomb, and in my frantic efforts to reach the bench I fell over the sleep ing Napo. Gathering myself up I jumped on his bench, wakening him rather suddenly. But he did not seem to mind snakes or my kicks, declaring reassuringly that they would not hurt me — wanted to lie down to sleep again — but on the principle that misery loves company, I insisted upon his sitting up with me. I was afraid to get down on the floor myself, so made him bring me my riding boots, which I only ventured to draw on after being assured by the grinning Napo that there were no snakes in them. I spent the balance of the night stand ing on the bench, striking matches to the amusement of the Napo, and the astonfshment of snakes, to which I "said things" in English that would not look well in cold type. The grey light of early dawn revealed the ugly Indian village of Chenoa, located like Chasuta, in the mud. It is a "balsa" or ferrying point over the river 244 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Mayo at a point above a natural dam of rocks which makes a pool suited for ferrying. The Governador at the head of an Indian file proces sion, came to our hut, I wondered what was going to happen next. I listened to a long harangue, not one word of which I understood, but inferred from the sup plicating attitude of the Indians that they meant to apologize for their conduct of the previous day. I pretended to be reluctant to grant the favor — though really most eager to make any terms at all — as they had the advantage of possession and resources. Atlas advanced with extended hand muttering over and over the salutation, "Patron," or padrone, expressing also his "thankfulness" as the interpreter put it, "because you did not shoot his father." I gave each a gloved hand, adding later a trifling present to the two little boys. The balsa or ferriage considered to be dangerous at this point was made more hazardous beeause of the recent high water. Like everything else ferrying be comes a matter of contract with a Governador. I paid in advance for putting two head of horses and six head of Indians and myself on the other bank. The Indians were piled into one canoe, which it was arranged should make the first attempt, leading the swimming horses by ropes. The Napo stood on the bank finding fault with the Governador 's plans, declaring the attempt to swim two horses together would result in drowning both. It looked a little that way to me, and as better securing their safety, I told the Napo to get in the canoe and give them the benefit of his Ecuadorian skill, he de murred with the observation, "No, sir, it is dangerous BALSA— OR FERRY 245 to die," meaning that it was dangerous and might result in the drowning of himself. I let him off with a laugh at his interpretation. In obedience to the orders and threats of the Gov ernador, the canoe load of chattering Indians was shoved out, and caught in the rushing current before they were ready, the two horses plunging wildly in the water over the rocky bottoms were liable to injure themselves or upset the canoe. The current took them down so rapidly that scarcely any headway was being made across though the Indians paddled vigorously. We followed them down the bank shouting and perhaps say ing things in English they did not understand, urging them to keep the horses' heads above water, one of the Chenoas, thinking the canoe was going over the falls below, jumped and swam to shore. After a struggle which took them almost out of sight I was glad to see that my horse's feet had touched bottom and he was staggering to the other shore. The other horse had completely collapsed, lodging on the rocks some dis tance below, no effort being made to revive him. The Governador, with'myself and the Napo, crossed without adventure in a separate canoe that the Napo skillfully managed. With a correct sense of justice and fair play, the Gov ernador deducted a proportion of the ferriage on account of the drowned horse, that had not been de livered on the far bank, according to the contract. This left the Napo afoot with the Lamas, which I did not regret, feeling that it was his lubberly body and rough riding that had so exhausted the pony that he easily succumbed to the fording. Believing that a 246 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW merciful man should be merciful to his beast, and realizing that my pony too had been roughly handled in the ferriage, when we reached a steep hill with a rocky trail I dismounted to lead him. The effort was not appreciated, perhaps because he had never before experienced such consideration. He resisted viciously, tried to jump on me, upsetting my dignity and the saddle packs, and breaking a bottle of chu-chu-wassa. While the Indians and the Napo stopped to rest and make coffee I rode ahead on the well defined trail through a fertile valley leading to the larger village of Tabalosa, which we should have reached the previous night, except for the fracas that landed us in Chenoa. The town of Tabalosa, like all the Spanish or half- civilized native villages, is situated on a barren hill top. In its architectural appearance and filthiness it resem bles all the rest, my observation seeming to prove true the statement that a Spaniard hates a tree and suc ceeds in making the natives feel likewise, as none are cultivated near their dwellings. On reaching the outskirts of this town I became demoralized on seeing that the inhabitants were wildly celebrating one of their festas. The usual procession with the holy emblems, and Peruvian flags and loud tom tom music was emerging from the church, causing me to rein up as suddenly as if I had run into a detachment of the enemies we used to be always on the lookout for when we had rides through Virginia a few years ago. In this instance if I had been leading an invasion I should not have been more disturbed, if I had encoun tered an armed force instead of this religious proces sion. If one wants to get through that land pleasantly ENCOUNTERING A FESTA 247 they should cultivate first the clergy and after that the army officials. Though some distance from the crowd, I hastily doffed my sombrero, as is required of every one who wears a hat, when one of these priestly marshals are on exhibition. Realizing that it was of no use to attempt to pass through the village until the tedious ceremonies were over, and fearful that the break-up or aftermath would so demoralize the Indians of the town, that we would have trouble in getting our Indians through, there being always some ill feeling and jealousy between the different tribes. I waited till my procession came up, intending to try and create a good impression by mak ing a grand entree into the village, to take part in the festa, as distinguished visitors or travellers, which I knew would have the effect of pleasing the officials and the Indians. It was arranged that the Napo as an interpreter should do all the lying to the Governador, while I'd play the role of Poo-bah, or that of a distinguished Ambassador en route to Lima to see the President of Peru. The Napo entered heartily into the plans, I impressed on him the necessity of first securing the local Governador 's influence to enable us to pass through the village without allowing our Indians to come in contact with theirs. When all ready, I took the head of the column, the only mounted personage, the interpreter following at my side, while the half dozen of ragged and dirty Indians and the two boys followed in single file, making the grand entree in a style not excelled by 248 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Coxey's army into Washington. When I deigned to address the Napo, or he would venture to speak to me, he would take off his excuse for a hat, and bow obse quiously. As the rest did not wear hats they were ex cused from this formality. We solemnly marched up the street, without noticing the gaping villagers, halting in front of the Governador 's hut, where the principal beggars of the place were having some sort of a pow wow that always follows a festa. This gathering was to our advantage. As previously stated, a passport is not at all a necessity and seldom offered in any of these lands, except perhaps for the identification of an official. Before starting on this overland trip I had communi cated with the Brazilian government at Rio de Janeiro and Lima stating my desire of travelling alone through the interiors of their country, asking a passport. A pleasant reply was sent stating that "My exequator as a United States Consul, in their country, was recog nized all over Brazil and Peru, and it was only neces sary to make myself known to ensure consideration. ' ' I had been supplied, some years previous, with the "special passport" from our Department of State, given to each Consul with his appointment. I never had occasion to present it. It was a large official docu ment on parchment, with the usual spread eagle head ing, the text in copper plate chirography, endorsing me by name to the care of the officials of the countries to which I was accredited or visited en route to my post of duty, stating that I was entitled to the courtesies and safe conduct that would be extended to citizens of their countries who were travelling in the United USE OF A PASSPORT 249 States. A large red seal emphasized the signature of the Secretary of State, James G. Blaine. I prized the document as an autograph as I do that of my army commission bearing the signatures of Lin coln and Stanton. Happily it occurred to me that I should take this official parchment along on this trip, with a view of having it vised by each official as I passed through the different states and countries, which I thought would make an interesting collection of autographs, but would serve also to preserve in an official way, with stamped seal and dates, the evidence that I had really visited the places named first. On the reverse side of this parchment I had obtained the official signature of Deodora Fonseca, First Presi dent of Brazil, with that of Justo Chermont, the Gov ernor of the State of Para, and Roberto, Governor of the State of Amazonas, (all in Brazil), the sub-Prefect of the provinces of Peru, at Iquitos, Yurrimaguas, Tara pota, each of whom had placed their official seal upon the paper up to that time. Subsequently the list was in creased as we advanced to Moyabamba, Chachapoyas and Cajamarca on this route, and finally by the United States Minister at Lima. An official passport is probably printed on stiffer paper and perhaps worded a little stronger than the ordinary document, enclosed in a large blue envelope, covered with addresses and several ounces of red seal ing wax. This was handed to the Napo to present to the Governador, which part of the trick he played with considerable style and dignity, and an Indian can be dignified, handing it in before the assembled natives, 250 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW and at request of the Governador, translating that part I had indicated about safe conduct. It had the desired effect. The Governador came out to meet me, courte ously offering to do all he could for me. Subsequently I had the Napo emphasize the translating of other papers which secured us all we required. So it hap pened that the passport was useful amongst a lot of drunken fanatics. The Napo, as usual, got in his little work on the Indians by relating the incident of the old grandad shooting over his head. He made out, as I afterwards learned, that the old Indian had attempted to kill me, and as the passport had magnified my importance, the Governador had the old man carried off to the town jail. The Napo explained that it would not hurt the old man but would scare the sons and the rest of the Indians who would get to know of it. On this plea I let it pass, but before leaving made peace and friends with all by interceding for the release of the old man, on condition that he return to Lamas. My horse was to be returned to Lamas from this point, it being understood that I would get a remount at Tabalosa, to Moyabamba, but we were told no horses could be obtained for some days, and rather than stay over night in the village, I determined to go ahead on foot, a tramp of five or six days over the first real Andes to the valley and town of Moyabamba. The Governador kindly sent as escort out of town one of his "judges," as the old men are called, who carry staffs as a mace of authority, who took us beyond the town, not, however, without a most -bewailing ap peal to me from Atlas — to be allowed to take one — just A TABALOSA TEMPTER 251 one drink from a tempter in the form of a girl that followed us out of the village. CHAPTER XVn. ¦*• HE natives of certain portions of fluvial t Amazonas, better known as the Mon tana or wooded country of Peru, do not know the immense blue moun tains eternally in their sight, by our familiar geographical name of the Andes. In reply to numerous inquiries as to the Andes, the better informed of all the people gave the same answer, as they pointed toward the distant, snow-capped peaks, "Cordilleras," pronouncing the word with a rever ential emphasis of astonishment at my ignorance — "Cor-de-lay-ras" — with the accent on the syllable "lay." This, I believe, means "The place where the snow comes," and does not refer to the "foothills of the Andes," as is popularly supposed. Each of the innumerable points, or round tops, have distinct Indian names, significantly descriptive of their appearance, but a knowledge of phonetics would not enable one to get them down in a shorthand notebook. There are three distinct great mountain ranges par alleling this portion of South America nearest to the Pacific, similar to our Sierra Nevada or Coast Range, and the Rocky Mountains, which figuratively speaking, seem to have been gathered in at the Isthmus like a string tied to the centre of several bags that spread themselves out again at both ends, forming three im mense chains of high peaks, each range being separated 252 THE THREE RANGES OF ANDES 253 by great valleys or plateaus, which are miles upon miles, or weeks of travel, distant from mountain to mountain. The ranges are farthest apart nearest to the Equator, along on the latitude or line of our journey across the continent, which it will be observed, was undertaken at the widest part. All the climates of the earth are to be found in this Land of To-Morrow, with the modifying influences of latitude and difference in elevation from the Montana to the Sierra, 4,000 to 9,000 feet above the sea, and to the Puna between the Central and Eastern Cordilleras, at an altitude of 10,000 to 14,000 feet, too high and cold for any dense vegetation, a dreary region with a cheerless atmosphere. The Sierra, on the contrary, possesses a charming climate. The first evening of the tramp from Tabalosa we found our camp on a tangled, wooded hillside, over looking a stream of water running at the base of the first of the three Andes. At the time it was felt to be a misfortune that we were unable to secure a relay or remount of horses or mules at Tabalosa, but in the sense of looking back ward, it turned out for the best, as the walk afforded an experience and opportunity for observation during a five days' tramp over the first range, that we would not have appreciated so highly from the backs of mules. The trail across the continent is divided into the several sections - suitable for tramping, riding on the back of an Indian or mule, and in some few places nearer the Pacific, mountain ponies or native horses may be used. 254 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW After an experience with all of these, the conclusion was that one could make as good time on the rough trail on foot as when mounted. The Indians never ride, and with immense packs on their backs, will keep pace all day with riding mules. Horses are a little quicker, perhaps, but not so reliable and sure of foot as are Indians and mules. After the affair of the first day, and the scare at Tabalosa, my quota of Indians improved every day of our acquaintance. But the heavy, lubberly guide on foot, became a drag. He had loafed so much in civi lized towns, without exercise, that he became fat and lazy as well as saucy. The two little boys, each with a pack on his back like their father, got along lively, chattering and laughing as they ran like a couple of school boys out for a day's picnicking in the woods. They kept close by me dur ing the day's tramp, probably because the "padrone" entered with boyish zest into their fun. Their company was a pleasant relief, and to enter tain them it was my habit to fire my revolver at a mark which they would indicate, and being a fair shot, they would jump with delight at the execution. One boy usually Walked ahead and one behind, so that every movement attracted their attention. One day the larger boy, by his pantomimic gestures, directed my gaze to a hanging nest resembling that of a large bird. Whipping out my pistol, I fired into the nest to gratify them. They laughed and shouted with delight on see ing from the commotion that I had made a hit; but in a moment both of them, with wild gesticulations, urged me to shoot some more, We had stirred up a hornet's TWO LITTLE INDIAN BOYS 255 nest and the boys expected my pistol balls to kill each one of the pestiferous things. On refusing to waste my ammunition on hundreds of individual hornets, each little Indian threw a blanket over his head, and motion ing for me to do likewise, they started to run. Although very tired, we three hooded boys ran up the hill as lively as if just starting out. We were received into camp by the father of the little fellows, who, while swearing at me in Indian, used a brush of leaves to drive off our pursuers, and then — while his hand was in — vigorously thrashed the boys with the same twigs. Being half-naked, they suffered from the escapade more than I did, but the affair made lots of fun for the boys— and me too — when it was over. While the father and brother prepared supper the Indian boys gathered wood for the all-night fire neces sary for comfort in that altitude, and also for protec tion against lurking wild beasts. The odor of the baked or roasted chicken — which we had been carrying for a few days — indicated that it was spoiling. Instead of throwing it away, the Indians insisted upon stewing the tainted chicken with onions, or sa-bo-lios, as they are called, which absorbed the bad flavor, and the stew was served hot with the appe tizing fragrance of the onions. While enjoying, in a retired place, a bath in the cool water of a stream running below the hill — so grateful to the tired tramp — the curious boys, discovering my retreat unceremoniously joined me. They were so amazed at beholding my white skin that they seemed to forget their own brown-skinned nakedness and 256 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW showed an irresistible inclination to get close enough to see and feel if it were really flesh and blood. One would poke me in the ribs with his fingers and then rub his hands over my skin. Being very ticklish, and as ridiculously sensative in a bath as a girl — and per haps somewhat modest for a veteran — I nervously at tempted to defend myself from their exaggerated cur iosity, but this exhibition of nervousness on my part caused them to laugh hilariously and excited *them to even greater interest in my appearance. The face and hands being the only parts of my body previously exposed, they had become quite as tanned or sunburned as their own, and the Indians no doubt supposed that all of my body would be similarly reddened. As usual, the location for our camp had been cleared of any underbrush that might afford concealment for snakes or other creeping things, attracted to such spots by the scent of provisions. The place was also burnt over to destroy insects. My camp bed had been made up a little apart from the rest, a compliment which I did not appreciate, but I easily prevailed upon the Indian boys to lie on the ground on each side of me, feeling that under such con ditions misery loves company, and incidentally pro tection. On account of the yellow tropical moonlight I slept little until morning. All was quiet, so oppressively quiet the odor of the forest was heavy as we lay wrapped in our blankets, dreaming of home on the other side of the world or gazing into the starry sky, phosphorescently lighted by the moon, its beams — as it sailed along — seemed to fairly rustle the leaves of the MOONLIGHT ON THE ANDES 257 trees as if in an effort to peer through the dense foliage in search of us. Next morning, bright and early, finding that I slept, the Indians were around piling on more fuel, and I therefore enjoyed a final "forty winks." These logs burned down and left the glowing coals on which our coffee was made. The Indian will sit alongside of a smoking fire, with his head between his knees, and at once drop into a sound sleep, remaining in a sitting posture until the cold awakens him to renewed exertion. We began the ascent of the mountain, which was a continuous climb over a narrow, rocky camino or trail ; up one hill and down another, into valleys at the bot tom of which were running streams so large as to be forded with difficulty. Although it was pleasantly cool at night, we found it quite hot at mid-day, even on the mountains. As we reached the tops of several spurs we expected to look beyond into the valley, into which we would descend; but each of these smaller summits when reached became a sore disappointment, for we realized that our climb had only been one step toward gaining the grand summit. With a feeling of discouragement we pressed for ward, each descent being a little less, and then crossing another stream, we would begin another almost perpen dicular climb of the adjoining hills. Atlas, who carried the trunk, was usually in the lead of our caravan. Laboriously reaching a summit, I would find my trunk on the ground and Atlas lying somewhere near fast asleep ; but he was always willing to start off cheerfully when the others were ready. 258 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW During the first day's ascent we did not reach an elevation sufficiently high to admit of our obtaining the grand views that we had had before and that so gen erously compensated us for our exhaustion by the cor responding elevation of our drooping spirits. The Indian boys stuck to my heels like affectionate hunting dogs. When we would stop under the shade for a rest they would disappear into the thickets, returning in a short time with gourds filled with cold water. One of the pleasant features of that country is the great abundance of clear, pure water that one may find almost everywhere. The little fellows seemed to think that the white man was always tired and needed a drink of water every time he sat down and they invariably scampered away to bring it. When very warm from exertion it was my custom to bare my arms and pour cold water over the wrists before drinking. They would look on in surprise, the sight of blue veins throbbing through the white skin of my wrists seemed to fascinate them. In going down the camino through one of the numerous valleys, we had a little fun with a party of six or eight Indians, accompanied by women, whom we encountered -coming from the opposite direction. This trail was simply a cow path scarcely a foot in width, with a mountain on one side and a precipice on the other. A long discussion as to which party should have the right of way ended in both companies sitting down to hold their own. The party of Indians was preceded by a mule almost concealed beneath a pack that would have CLEARING AN OBSTRUCTION 259 crowded anyone attempting to dispute his passage over the precipice. The Indian boys proposed a settlement of the diffi culty by pantomiming to me to shoot the mule. This, of course, I would not dare do, and I soon found out from their grinning and comical gesticulations that they meant for me merely to frighten the Indians by firing the gun. Entering into their humor, and not in tending to do any damage, I stood close by the mule's ears and fired into the air. If I had bored a hole through his big ear I could not have caused a more suc cessful stampede. He jumped and ran straight up a bank that I could not possibly have climbed, scattering his pack through the thicket as he ran and closely fol lowed by the whole party of badly scared Indians. We at once took advantage of the excitement and the clear track and hurried along, the young scamps laugh ing uproariously at the success of their idea, which also met with the smiling approval of the big Indians. Toward evening we reached the smouldering fires of the deserted camp of this same band. Our Indians wanted to stop, but if there is anything an old veteran cordially dislikes it is to be compelled to occupy a deserted camp ; and when it comes to an Indian camp, the objections increase a thousand fold. I therefore insisted on going forward until nightfall, when we camped alongside of a roaring stream of water, to the music of which we all slept so soundly that the moon' could not disturb our slumbers. The morning sun revealed a lovely valley, blooming in purple and orange. We had unconsciously slept in a garden of the most beautiful wild flowers. 260 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW During these days of toilsome tramping I saw but little of the Napo, who invariably brought up the rear, while I was in advance with the boys. Atlas, who carried the heaviest burdens, never seemed to tire. Indians bend their bodies forward at an angle that seems to balance the load on their backs. To steady themselves they use a stick like an Alpine stock. I cut one for myself, but after using it just one day my hand was so blistered by the perspiration and the friction that I was compelled to dress it with a handkerchief for protection. We reached at last a summit so elevated that we could look backward over the tops of the smaller spurs over which we had been climbing, and forward to those we knew we must cross before we could reach the great valley that lay just beyond. From this point there is a wonderful backbone — as it were — that connected the mountain top we were on with another peak and it was not necessary to make a long descent into the valley and ascend the other side. The hunchback is in appearance quite like an im mense fill of earth, such as would have been made by a good railway to cross a great valley. The roadway, a trail on the top, is quite level but somewhat tortuous, being several miles in length. We could see far ahead of us the trail outlined through the rather sparse growth of pines and palms of this altitude. On reaching this summit of the first of the three Andes, tired, footsore and almost exhausted from the tedious tramp, I became so exhilarated with the grandeur and magnitude of the scene spread out before my tired eyes, and so invigorated with the ozone in ON THE SUMMIT 261 the pure air, that my inclination was to shout or yell like an Indian on the war path. An occasional exhibi tion of pent-up enthusiasm reached the ears of Atlas and the two boys, who came running towards me as though they thought I needed help. I could not explain to them my feelings, but contented myself with pointing in the direction of the lovely green valleys in the distance to which we were bound. But they, poor, dense, stolid souls could not appreciate the beautiful picture, the sight of which in its grandeur would have inspired any sensitive being with admiration and rapture. Perhaps the rarefied atmosphere may exert an influ ence in this direction upon the human temperament, but certain it is, that if a man with a soul almost dead ened were placed amid such surroundings and breathed this, the very purest air, while feasting his eyes upon the glories of nature as seen here, he would be brought back to the point where he would again take a lively interest in life. Under such influences and amid such environments one does not care to speak, neither can the feelings of awe be described, but reverently lifting my hat in acknowledgment of the great Creator, I breathed a silent prayer of gratitude and moved forward greatly revived and strengthened. (Turning to my notebook, I find these words under date of September 9th: "What a wonderful picture on all sides. The Yosemite, the Yellowstone, and the Alps combined! The traveller should come to the Andes to get proof of the existence of a great Creator, 262 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW instead of going to the Holy Land. Great God! what a view!") On these mountain tops the vegetation assumes a different form to that of the tropical valleys or lower altitudes. We passed quantities of small pineapples growing on their cactas like plants. As we got higher the palm gave way to a species of pine tree ; but we did not get above vegetation on this range. There are points or peaks still higher than this trail that are inaccessible. On these higher places there is no vegeta tion, and snow lies perpetually in the deep valleys. It is the melting of this snow that supplies the abundance of clear, cold water always found on the adjoining mountains. After crossing the switchback we looked beyond and saw, apparently at the foot of the mountain, the won derfully beautiful Moyabamba valley. It was yet over a day's travel in distance. If we might have taken wings we could have dropped down into its welcoming loveliness in an hour, but it was necessary to suffer another day's penance and a night at the gates before we could enter the sequestered city. We descended gradually into a small valley and crossed on a foot-log a babbling brook of clear water. There were speckled trout beauties in the brook that were not afraid to be seen by man. We bathed our swollen feet, and in the exuberance of our gratitude and joy that we were so soon to rest at Moyabamba, gave each of the Indians a grog of cachasa. They told us me must go faster if we wished to reach the village the day following. We accordingly started off at a good gait through A VISTA OF ARCADIA 263 the valleys, traversing a narrow, sandy path cut like a swath in a corn field, through miles and miles of bamboo and cane. We had suddenly come upon an entire change of scene. From the tops of the Easterly Andes — from which we apparently had had a view* of a large portion of the earth's surface — surrounded by palms and pine trees, and invigorated by the cool breezes, we had dropped suddenly into a valley where our path lay through a thicket of bamboo so dense that scarcely a breath of air could penetrate to relieve the oppressiveness. Our only view was upward toward the clear blue sky, from which the sun sent its intense heat straight down upon our heads. When we reached the further foothill, like a step down on the western side of the Andes, we were so exhausted that we were all glad enough to make an early and last camp before reaching our relay. As- usual, the camp was located near a stream of water. Preferring to sleep out of doors in a perfectly safe, but what might be -called an isolated or indepen dent location somewhat removed from the snoring Indians, I selected a knoll so close to the edge of a cliff overhanging the running water that the Indian boys made my bed reluctantly, gesticulating their ap prehension that the "padrone" would roll into the water below. This trip across the continent, though laborious and rough, was — in respect to travel in that land — first- class. The Indians did all the work, making and carrying the beds, and even serving me with coffee before I would rise. 264 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW The Indians are in effect peons or slaves to their Spanish Peruvian military masters. In their atten tions to me they were simply complying with their training and early instruction. All was done willingly and with apparent enjoyment on their part, that made it pleasant for me. This fact will bear repeating — that the Indian of South America is docile and submissive to a degree bordering on servility. He is also stupid, and per haps treacherous, respecting the person he serves as his master or superior, because he fears him. Experience has proven that all missionary attempts to lift him to an equality, or even beyond a certain de gree of intelligence, has always resulted unsuccessfully. It is a rough comparison, but a most expressive one, to liken the lower class Indian to a hog. He is supremely indifferent to any feeling of sentiment. If you give him food he will eat it like a hog under the acorn tree, who swallows the acorns but never looks up to see where they come from. The Indian, however, will always divide his last meal with another, not possessing the civilized "virtue" of ingratitude. If you kick him he will only grunt, and lick the hand that strikes him. I did not entertain any philan thropic ideas on the subject, my association with those who travelled with me being successful on the general principle that they respected me beeause they feared me. I always treated them kindly but sternly, as I would an animal that served me faithfully, not as a pet dog, but as the horse, man's best friend. As com panions, I sincerely became fond of some of them, be lieving that in adversity they could be better relied FOREST NOISES 265 upon, perhaps, than some of our missionary friends with whose doctrines we might not agree conscien tiously and who would probably abandon their dearest friends from principle or a sense of religious duty. An Indian, or a dog, or a horse will stick close to his master when all are hungry or in distress, without any regard to principle, or whether it is right or wrong. Being very tired I lay down on my cot and was asleep before it was dark, but early in the night I was awakened as from a dream by some eries in the forest that sounded so like human voices that I awakened the Indians, thinking perhaps that the two boys were lost and crying for assistance. My apprehensions were re lieved, however, by the two little fellows suddenly bobbing upright in their blankets, reminding me forcibly of "Jacks in a box." At the sound of my voice the noises had ceased, so that it was with difficulty that I accounted for the cause of my alarm. The Indians finally got the Napo wide enough awake to explain to me that I had simply heard the cry of a leopard or wild cat of the tiger species. Being thus pleasantly reassured, we lay down again to wakeful dreams, while the bright moon of the early morning shed its refulgent beams through the rich foliage, making shadowy pictures resembling wild beasts crouching among the trees. This prevented my sleeping until nearly morning, when one of the Indians getting cold, crawled out to stir up the fire. He fin ished his nap in the warmth of the blazing logs, and I then felt secure, and closing my eyes> I took another "forty winks." The Sunday morning of our last day's tramp opened 266 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW up bright and beautiful. The path lay over a small spur of the mountain; the air was invigorating, the surroundings picturesque, the trees rich in tropical loveliness, and the early birds seemed to note and join in our happiness. In tropical countries the birds do not sing much, but in the Land of To-Morrow they sing both day and night. Perhaps weirdly beautiful and genuinely operatic effects might be obtained by lovers of music, or those who have souls for the beautiful, by the portrayal of a moonlight scene on the Andes : the solemn, stillness of the entrancing situation being disturbed only by the pretty, plaintive songs of the night birds, as they sing their notes of love to each other from the waving palms, the bass voices of large animals serving as a sort of accompaniment. It goes without saying in this Land of To-Morrow that the rough travelling and hardships of every day's journey are made endurable by the always present and ever grateful sight of myriads of lovely flowers, and rare birds and butterflies. Almost every breeze is laden with the delicious perfume of the flowers, which bring to the tired and sometimes almost exhausted traveller, not only cheers and encourages, but invig orates like a stimulant. It is a land to which naturalists — especially botanists — are sent by the Scientific Societies of Germany, France and England to collect specimens and to pursue their studies. It has been a surprise to meet foreigners of the scientific class, who spend years in the forests in search of special prizes in their lines. FOREIGN NATURALISTS AND BOTANISTS 267 Cultured gentlemen come out from England and France fully equipped for the collection of orchids alone, which they prepare and ship to those countries at great expense, but one never meets with an American scientist. Professor Orton, whose bones rest near Lake Titicaca, and whose excellent book has so long been out of print, and like the author, it is almost forgotten by his own countrymen, was the only American scientist ever heard of in those regions. When I have talked to my American friends on the subject of American enterprise or the pursuit of scien tific knowledge, the first question propounded was, "Is there any money in it?" and if the subject be pursued they will demand to know what I "am after." When I explain my research for rubber insulation for this electric age, they usually add the comforting assurance that "There is no use writing books about it, as there is no money to be made out of books." I mention these things to indicate that in scientific research, as well as scientific business enterprise, the Frenchman, the German, or the Englishman is in ad vance of the American in the industries of gathering the rich harvest to be found in the tropical forests for use in materia medica. It is a business fact, that French and English florists are making a great deal of money from the collection of rare and beautiful orchids — anything that is beau tiful being useful. These tropical valleys are the home of the orchids, the varieties of the upper forests being superior to those of the swamps, and much better adapted for trans planting in our climate. 268 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW One with knowledge and experience and tact ful with the Indians could collect specimens that would bring probably thousands of dollars; but without knowledge an am ateur might duplicate at great expense a common variety of the numerous parasites (or as they say it, ' ' para-see-tees " ) that grow profusely in this land. Only the edges of the great forests have been ex plored. What lies in the hundreds of miles of dense growth beyond, no white man knows — but is a rich harvest of orchids alone, without mentioning its other and greater wealth of medicinal wonders, woods, dyes, etc. The birds also are a study for the scientist. They are of various kinds and as prolific as may be imagined in a land of eternal summer, where migration is not essential and where the sportsman's cruel work is un known. The plumage of many of them seems to take on the varied coloring of the tropical flowers in the tangled thickets. Under the deep shadows one will see birds that resemble flowers, swinging on the end of a twig, and also flowers that resemble the feathers of birds. A Bird of Paradise BUTTERFLIES AND BIRDS 269 Numerous varieties of large butterflies lazily spread their wings as if to proudly exhibit their gorgeous color ing. One is tempted to chase the butterflies, but the undergrowth is so dense that without protection, it would be unsafe to wander far from the narrow trail. On the affluents of the lower Amazon I met two brothers from North Carolina, who lived in their canoes and who made a business of shooting the white heron from which the rare aigrette feathers are ob tained. These are worth, literally, their weight in gold, being valued at from thirty to forty dollars an ounce. This statement may seem like an exaggeration, but I am giving facts obtained from shipments of sworn valua tion to Consular invoices that passed through my hands, after the brothers had been detected in smug gling aigrette feathers through the mails. I mailed tufts of the aigrette feathers to lady friends, some of whom would have preferred a parrot or a monkey, which are as common as cats or chickens in our country. On the last walk the first part of the trail led through a dense forest covering the last of the mountain spurs. Our camino was the usual narrow swath through the underbrush, worn by the continuous tramping of the barefooted natives travelling for decades between Moy abamba and Lamas or Tarapota. If it were not con stantly used it would soon become obscured by the trop ical growth of shrubbery. Crossing our path at almost right angles I saw an other trail, smaller, but even more distinctly and clearly defined, though scarcely four inches in width. It was made by ants, who travelled it in such numbers that not 270 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW even a blade of grass could grow on the trail. The line of their march extended as far as the eye could reach, in gracefully curved lines that would be the envy of engineers locating for a railway. What prompts the ants to make and maintain these long roads through the forests I leave to the scientists. The Indians do not know, but they realize that it is of no more use to attempt to break up their line of communication than it would be to stop the flow of a river. They simply let them alone severely. In that country, where customs are so generally reversed, the sluggard does not go to the ant — the ant comes to him, in great numbers — if he attempts to molest them. On this day I saw the largest snake of the trip, and if it was not quite as large as a telegraph pole, it was ugly and big enough to be called a boa. My attention was first called to a little animal like a squirrel, chirruping at the base of a tree. In cautiously approaching, with cocked revolver, to get a closer shot at it, I almost put my foot on the tail of the immense snake, the greater part of whose body was in a coil. It was nearly the color of the shrubbery, and as we were both attracted by the antics of the squirrel, neither of us had seen the other. I made a good jump backward to the trail, only stopping to fire recklessly at the horrible thing, but did not wait to see whether the shot took effect on his "snakeship," but it at least broke the spell, for the squirrel which seemed to have been paralyzed or hope lessly charmed by the snake, now darted up the tree out of sight. The boys, hearing the report, were soon at my side *5St-« 1 ' %V, -'' ' ?ifc &b«i ¦'.. The Bathing Pool at Moyabamba Facing Page 270 ONE BIG SNAKE 271 and rushed into the thicket after the boa, which I was glad they did not get. They saw it, however, the larger of the boys comparing its size in diameter to his bare leg. Soon after this adventure we heard a dog bark and knew that we were approaching Indian civilization. From the summit of a little hill we saw Moyabamba, our "promised haven" yet along ways off, nestling in the midst of the finest, loveliest valley on the earth's surface. One unconsciously thought of the Garden of Eden, and after a residence in the city or village, amongst a population of 5,000, three-fourths of whom were women and a number of them beautiful Chola senoritas, this impression becomes strengthened. The descent into the picturesque valley became the "hop, skip and a jump" of the school boy nearing home. We approached the valley alongside of a river, but not yet out of the woods by a league. We emerged sud denly into a clearing and were startled by the appari tion of the whole population, apparently, bathing in the stream under the overhanging trees and clothed in the dress worn by Mother Eve. There were some pretty girls among the ugly, old women, but all of them ap peared entirely unconscious and certainly indifferent to our intrusion. This incident did not cause us to hestitate upon the threshold of the Arcadian Moyabamba, but rather served to hasten our steps forward. CHAPTER XVIII. (HE town of Moyabamba occupies per haps the most strikingly picturesque location of any settlement on the con tinent, in the rich valley, which has the appearance of a depression, sim ilar in many respects to that of the Yosemite, but as great in extent as the Yellowstone. It is not, however, a depression, but a large, isolated and somewhat elevated plateau hemmed in on all sides by high mountains covered with vegetation. In the centre of the vast valley a spur of foothills of lower elevation like a bunch of mountains extends sev eral miles, forming a narrower plateau resembling an immense fortress situated in the midst of a sea of wav ing foliage and similar to Lamas, the clay sides of the formation presenting the appearance of irregular, pre cipitous, terra-cotta walls, on the top of which is Moya bamba. This town can only be entered by winding paths in certain directions. Our ascent of the plateau was somewhat hastened as we observed a dark cloud in our rear which threatened a heavy storm. Our first impressions of the town itself were not favorable, one, perhaps, expecting too much by com paring man's work with the beautiful, natural sur roundings; but as we approached nearer it seemed picturesque if not pretty. The streets are narrow and the adobe houses are 272 ARRIVAL IN ARCADIA 273 small and of the monotonous Spanish Indian character that one sees all through these mountains. We straggled along the narrow streets, tired and foot-sore, but without attracting any particular atten tion, as the curiosity of the people is not nearly so great as that of our own rural population. Though some of them had not, perhaps, seen a white man or a stranger for years and many of them never before, they passed us by without even a glance of interest. If they had any curiosity they were certainly able to conceal it. It was only when we intercepted a senor, who was out walking with his two daughters, and made some in quiries as to the casa of Senor San Martine, to whom I was endorsed that anything was said to us. Even then, though most courteously directed, not a question was asked in regard to ourselves and no suggestions were volunteered. We found Senor Martine — the principal merchant of the town — to be a very polite Spanish gentleman, who received us most cordially into his own home until he could arrange for our comfort in a house specially pre pared for us. As is the custom in that land, travellers are provided with a residence of their own during their stay, but all are expected to bring their beds and provisions. Hospitality is, however, not at all limited. I was provided with what might be called "a suite of apartments" in an upstairs section of one of the best houses on the main street of the town. Moyabamba streets and houses as seen from the out side, do not properly represent the character of their 274 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW interior. Usually the streets are as narrow and ill- looking as some of the alleys of our towns. The early Spanish builders seemed to entertain ideas practically the opposite of our own. For instance, we attempt to make the best appearance by ornamenting or beautifying the outside of our buildings, or the part fronting on the streets, paying little regard to the architecture in the rear. In the same way our back yards do not get the attention which we give our little front yards. The Spanish American house has its worst side out, as if to avoid attracting notice, and there are no back yards, the house surrounding the garden or patio. The better class of houses in Moyabamba, as well as those in Lima and other cities, are generally -constructed to admit of an inner court or garden in the centre of the lot, around which are the galleries or hallways upon which the rooms open. On the front, the lower part usually opens on the street and is used for business pur poses. The entrance to the residence part is always through an archway into the court, the saloons, or par lors, being ordinarily on the first floor in the rear. There does not seem to be such a thing as a kitchen, at least I never got into one. The cooking is done out of doors. In the patio, or large court, there were a number of old trees laden with oranges of a most delicious flavor. Under these trees the Indians who had accompanied me rested. They remained with me a day or two as my guests. The little boys enjoyed their outing in the streets of the town fully as much as our country boys do when visiting in our cities. I supplied them with a MOYABAMBA 275 few trinkets, the possession of which gave unbounded delight to the youngsters. I presented my soiled, ragged, travel worn clothes to the Indians, and after a bath in cachasa to relieve the stings of the moqueen and other insects, I astonished them by appearing in a fresh costume, with white shirt, stiff collar and flaming red necktie. Using an umbrella as a cane and wearing gloves for the sake of appearances, I took the Napo guide as an interpreter and sauntered out to pay my respects to the Prefect, this being the custom oi* all strangers on arriving in a town. Moyabamba, the capital city of the large department of Loretto, which includes several states, each about the size of Pennsylvania or Ohio, covers that portion of Peru known as fluvial Amazonia, meaning "where the water is plenty. ' ' The Prefect is distinguished from the sub-Prefect, several states reporting to him instead of to the Pres ident. In mentioning to friends that in extensive travels in out of the way places, I had never yet found a point where the English language was not spoken, it was said that at Moyabamba no one would be found who could speak English. This induced me to take the Napo guide along as interpreter in case I should need one when interviewing that august personage, the Prefect. While passing through one of the streets my atten tion was attracted to a tall, distinguished looking Span iard, who was lounging in his doorway. I ventured to ask in very bad Spanish to be shown the way to the casa of the Prefect. To my astonishment 276 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW and delight, he replied in English, without a touch of foreign accent: "Certainly, if you will be kind enough to step inside I shall be pleased to accompany you to the Prefect. ' ' Extending his hand, he then courteously welcomed us to his own house, introducing himself as the sub-Pre- feet. We sat down at his request, and had English talk and three bottles of Dublin stout in the centre of the South American continent. I beg to introduce to the readers — especially the ladies — my new-found and yet constant Spanish friend, Colonel Estaban Lasurteque, of the Peruvian army. (Pronounce the name, Es-ta-bann, the accent on the last syllable, La-soor-ta-kee, accenting the soor.) The Colonel, certainly one of the handsomest and most gracious gentlemen whom I met in my travels, may be described as tall and erect, with dark eyes, short Spanish whiskers, and a decidedly military bear ing, which is strikingly different to that of the natives. He was educated at the military schools in France and Belgium, having spent' some ten years of his early life abroad. My housekeeping arrangements not being complete, Senor San Martine insisted that Col. Lasurteque and myself should dine with him at his house; after which we all called upon the Prefect, quite a venerable old gentleman, who received us very kindly. We were also joined by Dr. Herreira, a personal friend of Colonel Lasurteque, and appointed by the Lima administration as a judge of the district, which office was quite an im portant one. Soon after dark the military band at the Plaza bar- A SERENADE 277 racks came around and gave a serenade in our honor. It seemed as if all the town, in bare feet, had gathered on the narrow streets to hear the noisy music. Probably none enjoyed the affair so much as my two Indian boys, who seemed to think that their "padrone" was indeed some person from another world, whose presence could call forth noises such as they had never heard before. After a pleasant evening I slept soundly on my camp bed made up in my new quarters until awakened in the early morning by a messenger from the Prefect, who had politely sent to inquire how we had rested during the night. In connection with the picturesque adobe and thatched roof Acadia of the Land of To-Morrow, there are romantic stories and ancient history, as numerous as are the stones or bricks in the walls of its antiquated houses. Perhaps some of these are quite as interesting as Longfellow's "A Village," of which the traveller is reminded. The story of this village, however, has never been told, and it must be read by the visitor within its walls. Though picturesque, it is not a pretty town. Probably because of its location in the finest of valleys, amid so much natural beauty, the rude handiwork of the natives becomes ugly by comparison. It is one of the first and most important settlements of the early Spanish Jesuit missionaries, who, perhaps, may have been led to this remote and beautiful valley as a haven of refuge with the Incas, who were com pelled to flee over the Central Andes to these fortresses to escape the cruelties, of the Spanish conquerers of Pizarro 's time. There is very scant record of any 278 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Spanish conquerers having attempted to cross this central range, except that of the hazardous under taking of Orellano from Quito, in Ecuador, down the Napo to the Amazon. Reclining in a woven hammock swung between a big orange and a little lemon tree in a garden containing lovely and fragrant flowers, his tired gaze resting upon distant mountains with foliage that resembles clouds on the horizon, the weary traveller will probably be aroused from his day-dreams by the apparition of a mantled, brown senorita, with wicked black eyes and a smiling mouth with rows of pearly teeth, who grace fully hands to him a cup of delicious coffee — famous Moyabamba coffee — made from berries grown in the garden. Served in a delicate little gourd of clear amber, this fragrant beverage, with its foaming bead, is a nectar fit for — a veteran. Amid these entrancing surroundings, the blonde, who, it is said, is more sensitive (or susceptible) than the brunette, may be pardoned for persisting in the observation that this was a part of the' original Garden ofEden. There were numerous descendents of Eve, who would tempt the young or old Adam, not only with the apples, oranges and other fruits of the garden, but also with coffee, which is a weakness of veterans, and always opens a way to hearts that refuse to grow old. Of the population of about 7,000, it is probably safe to say that more than 5,000 are senoras and senoritas. As at Tarapota, the best of the male inhabitants have gone off to the forests in search of rubber, hoping to get suddenly wealthy. ISOLATED PARADISE 279 280 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Moyabamba has its disadvantages, its principal one being its inaccessibility, for it is cut off from the outside world by the immense easterly range of the Andes, which separates it from the Amazon, while beyond or west are two other ranges that must be scaled in order to reach the Pacific. The active young men succeed in getting away, either to the coast as soldiers, or to the forests as rubber gatherers, and but few of them return. The girls not having any prospects beyond to justify them in attempting the rough journey, are obliged to remain in the valley, which fact accounts probably for the excess in the female population. This is, in one sense, a disadvantage, yet, in the way of encouraging immigration, it becomes a decided inducement for young men who may desire to find willing and trusty helpmates. While the senoritas are not all pretty, they seem to possess in an usual degree the charm of natural grace. The Spanish officials and senors in these wilds ex tend many delicate attentions to strangers, and this is done in such a kindly manner that it rather puts some of the methods of our bustling civilization to the blush. My friend, Col. Lasurteque (and the sub-Prefect also) sent a message of inquiry as to our comfort, with the observation that he had ordered four women to report to me, and out of "this quartette I was to select one to be my cook and housekeeper while I remained in the village. During the morning, not only four, but eight or ten women came to see about my work. At one time there SOME INCONVENIENCES 281 were five of them sitting on a bench in my court yard, chatting and laughing amongst themselves in a manner quite different to the rather sullen aspect with which a number of applicants for one place regard each other in. our country. They were mostly stout and old and ugly, so that I was not interested in the selection. One woman had brought her niece with her, and stipulated that if she was to do my cooking, her niece must also be provided for. The providing for another, or even for half a dozen extra mouths in that land of plenty is of so slight a consideration that no account is taken of it. Being unable to decide amongst so many ugly women, I left the matter to the Napo guide, who selected a buxom young woman with a jolly disposition, who was duly installed as housekeeper and who proceeded to throw away our provisions. The cook does all the buying, and as the markets of Moyabamba are well supplied in the way of vegetables, we enjoyed a variety of Spanish cooking which was a relief from the two or three dishes we had been living upon. These restful and happy days at Moyabamba, almost unconsciously rolled into weeks of quiet enjoyment. making the month of September pass so agreeably in this ideal life at the Equator, that looking backward at this time, it all seems like a pleasant dream. There are inconveniences, however, connected with this living in these Amazonian valleys, that, to the minds of the majority of Americans, would form ob stacles to their enjoyment, as great perhaps, as the mountains which encompass the town. They arise from 282 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW the habits and customs of these happy people which are as fixed as the everlasting hills themselves. It would not only be a waste of time, but dangerous as well, for the outsider to attempt to reform or change their cus toms. It is largely a question of climate and bioocl, and one might as well try to "bulldoze" the climate as the natives. It is difficult to make some of our rather aggressive, American, liberty-talking element comprehend that, in their way, these people really enjoy as much freedom, relatively, as the same class of citizens do with us. True, they are all subjects of the military officials of the administration in power, but it is to the interest of these officials to treat their subjects well, as upon their own good behavior they must depend for contin uance in office. If the rule of a Prefect becomes unpopular or tyran nical and unjust, the people "remove" him quietly at night, and the government sends another who is likely to profit by his predecessor's fate. In our papers, the accounts of their revolutions are greatly exaggerated. A revolution in South America may fittingly be compared to an ordinary election in our land, during which there is not so much disorder, rioting or bloodshed as occurs during the majority of our elections. The Latin American idea of civil service is that when one official has been in power long enough to enrich himself and become independent, he should give way and permit others to have the same chance, but instead of cutting off official heads with a tomahawk, they take a gun and create a vacancy. LUXURIES 283 While I was at Moyabamba my gallant friend, Colonel Estaban, had some trouble with a settlement in the mountains near by, because the quota of Indians was not sent out to help clear out the trail. It is the custom for the sub-Prefect to detail men to keep the dense growth from covering up the caminoes. Col. Estaban rode to my quarters one evening, with boots and spurs and gay trappings, the very imperson ation of a handsome Spanish cavalier. After courteous greeting he invited me to dinner at his house that night, and saying he had some business on the road, he declined to dismount and dashed gayly off. I learned subsequently, though he did not mention it himself, that he had that morning faced an insurrec tion single handed, and cowed the mob by shooting two of their number. In this affair he was sustained by the better element of the people against the turbulent mountaineers. The dinner in the evening at the colonel's bamboo and thatched cottage was served on a deal table in the centre of the room, with a cordial hospitality and rude elegance befitting the host and his four gentlemen guests. To my astonishment, the first course was oyster soup, prepared expressly in honor of the Americano, from canned spiced oysters, whieh luxury was enjoyed by the other guests more than by myself. Chesapeake oys ters transported to the Andes is one of the luxuries of our climate that can willingly be dispensed with while living at the Equator. After the soup, we had wine from Bordeaux; trout from the rivers of the mountains, and a young shoat, or 284 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW wild hog, roasted and served entire, with yams and all the vegetables and fruits of the country, and clos ing with the delicious Moyabamba coffee. Gorgeously beautiful flowers and vining plants decor ated the room and table so profusely that the ragged walls of adobe became conspicuous as an artistic back ground. Among the best remembered guests were Judge Jonare Herreira and his friend, the leading physician of the village. I failed to note his name- at the time, and cannot now venture to put in on paper, but like the rest, he had been exiled to this paradise, and in consequence became a jolly good fellow. Altogether it was a rare evening of pleasurable communion of sympathetic hearts and souls (as well as of stomachs) — men from widely separated parts of the world — an occasion ever to be remembered; one of those star events in a roving life, that makes one believe that "all the world is kin." We separated at a late hour, after somewhat reck lessly accepting an invitation from the judge to arise at daybreak and ride with him and the doctor to the foot of the mountain, where the celebrated hot springs of the valley are located. The colonel, who could not accompany us, tendered me the use of his fine horse and saddle and also detailed an escort of soldiers who were to act as a sort of guard of honor, and at the same time perform servants' duties. The next morning I was awakened from sound sleep by the judge coming to my bedside and saluting me with "Buenos dias, Senor!" (By the way, there are MOYABAMBA BANYOS. 285 no locks to the doors in Moyabamba, the latch strings being always on the outside.) Hastily dressing, I walked with the judge to his house, where we were served with coffee — standing. It is one of the "costumbres" of this people to take their early coffee standing, just as we do our American cocktail. The horses being already saddled, we were soon mounted, and after descending the plateau and leaving the town, we galloped across the lovely valley. The ride in the cool morning air across Moyabamba valley, sometimes in a swath or path through the dense growth of tropical shrubbery growing from the rich soil of what seemed like an immense prairie, was in deed invigorating. Near the base of the mountain we entered the shadows of a bit of beautiful "forest primeval." The tall trees were so clustered with foli age at the top that the shade prevented the under growth from becoming very thick, affording us quite a clear footing on the velvety soil. Our approach stirred up the small animals and the birds that are always on the wing in the early morning, startled at our appearance, voiced their surprise in notes of pro test against the intrusion. The springs being located in a secluded glen some little distance up the mountainside, the washings from the overflow as it coursed down the slope marked the upward path, which was quite rough because the large stones were left loose and uncovered. Unlike the hot cascades of the Huallagua, the water here seemed to boil or bubble in chaldrons formed in 286 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW the sand, the overflow from which was gathered into deep pools for bathing. The soldiers preceding us had cleaned out the pools for our special benefit, and hastily preparing, with only a sheet for a covering, while still warm from the exer cise, we plunged into the water. I do not know as to its medicinal qualities except in the general way that the baths of Moyabamba are famed for their curative properties, but I can testify to its wonderfully invigorating effects. The pleasant in tercourse with friends at the banquet the preceding night, followed by the early .morning ride and the ex hilarating bath, made me feel that I had, perhaps, found the fabled fountain of youth in this Garden of Eden. Subsequently the judge gave a dinner at his quarters which equalled in its appointments that given by the colonel. In appearance Judge Herreira was a complete con trast to his intimate friend, Estaban, being of a quiet,. studious nature, with a mild, intellectual face the sparkle of his dark eyes being somewhat obscured by his glasses. The furniture of his room was principally desks and book-cases, instead of. saddles, swords, pistols and pictures of French actresses, such as ornamented the colonel's bachelor apartments. His dinner partook of a more formal and dignified style of the Spanish don, and was none the less enjoy able because of the presence of the venerable Prefect and his secretary, who, with the Padre of the village as guests, were the jolliest members of the party. DAILY ROUTINE 287 The routine of each day began with a sudden waking caused by the bells calling to early mass. The church of the town, with its convent or annex, occupies in all towns an entire side of the square or plaza. On the other side is the government house, flanked by a bar racks for soldiers. The market is also here. The churches are always well attended by the senoras and senoritas. The music is generally by the best talent of the country, comprising violins, mandolins and even drums and brass horns are often pressed into the choir service for special occasions. The church doors are never closed, and it is safe to say that the altar candles constantly shed their dim, religious light on some devotee, kneeling on the earthen floor. It is the custom of all who pass the open door of the church to lift their sombreros in respectful salu tation to the altar. In my desire to follow this custom of the country I once made the mistake of taking off my hat as I passed a market house, supposing it to be a church. Architectually, there is not much difference outside between the markets and the churches. Everybody in Moyabamba goes to early market, as they do to early mass, probably for the same reason, to see the pretty senoritas. As it is known all over the land that Moyabamba will turn out a greater number of these pretty girls — to market — than any other city of its size in South America. Sometimes they are seated alongside of their mats or rugs, on which are spread vegetables of all sorts as well as flowers, shrubs, eggs and chickens, or perhaps they will promenade with baskets of fruit or flowers nicely balanced on their heads. The older and uglier 288 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW senoras sell the curious cuts of mutton and beef and strings of fish. The buyers are usually the better class of the native population, and are the prettiest of the attendants at the market. Comparatively speaking, there is not in all our land more natural beauty in form and grace than may be found among the senoritas of this valley. Nothing in the way of groceries or produce is sold at the town shops or stores; their business is confined entirely to dry goods and notions. Everything for the day's sustenance must be purchased at the early morn ing market, or one must go hungry during the day. Though our marketing had been left to the cook, I became a regular attendant, and the presence of the stranger furnished a subject for market gossip. I bought only flowers from the prettiest flower girls, but as an American journalist I felt it to be my duty to ascertain the prices of the many good things which the country produced, and which were so numerous that I cannot- recall anything in the way of desirable fruits and vegetables that are not grown in this valley. Perhaps there is no land known to our civilization with all that skill and cultivation can accomplish in conservatories that can produce such beautiful forms and coloring in flowers as grow here in the open in wildest luxuriance. And when we remember that there is no market beyond for these varied products, one can understand that the best may be had at a merely nominal price. The only medium of exchange or currency recognized in Moyabamba are the copper coins of Peru. The silver sole, which is equivalent to fifty or sixty WATER CARRIERS 289 cents of our money, the authorized coin of the govern ment of Peru, is not used among the masses of Moya bamba and vicinity. These people persist in their adherence to the use of the two or three forms of copper coins, so that in marketing or in other similar transactions, one must be supplied with coppers. The store or shop keepers usually have barrels of them, which they are glad to exchange for silver. The town of Moyabamba being built upon an isolated knoll or plateau, the entire water supply is obtained from the valley beneath, for though there are mountain torrents of the purest, cold water running to waste on all sides, no attempt has yet been made to convey it through the city. While the market is going on — before coffee — those of the senoritas not otherwise engaged are busy in carrying the water supply necessary for the day. It may have been previously explained that all water is carried in peculiar shaped flattened jars of crockery, balanced on the heads of the young girls. There are a number of large springs just below the hill, around which the girls gather every morning in clusters, to chatter and gossip while filling their jars, Rebecca-like, at the wells. There are also a number of senors who lie in ambush along the path of the water carriers, and who twist their mustaches as the girls pass by. While the senor itas are not averse to flirting with their eyes it is not safe for a senor to approach them too familiarly. A lively senorita, with laughing eyes, to whom I appealed beseechingly for a drink of water, observing that I was 290 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW very warm, advised me to go to the river and cool off in a bath. This habit of carrying water, almost from infancy, gives the girls of the country an erect, graceful car riage, serving also to develop their figures with those curving outlines of beauty so attractive in the human form divine. The young girls bathe in the overflow of the cold spring water, almost every time they go to the pools. They wear blue mantuas over their heads and shoulders, and with the one loose garment covering their bodies, their feet and lower limbs always bare, they seem to glide along wholly unconscious or indifferent to their appearance and surroundings. After the morning duties the entire population seems to disappear, giving the old town a decidedly deserted look during the long, warm days. Some of our abundant leisure was occupied in ex tended walks, or in occasional hunts for the wild boar, or in boating and fishing in the beautiful placid river that flows through the valley, the exercise giving an appetite for the noonday breakfast. We then enjoyed a siesta on the balcony. In the construction of the houses few boards are to be seen. Some doors and window frames are used, but a species of insect attacks any smooth or planed wooden surface. Perhaps the entire absence of paint, oil or varnish may account for this, in part. The walls are usually of saplings or split logs, the roofs being of palm thatch, or terra-cotta tile laid on rustic rafters; the doors and windows are framed in the same rustic way. No glass is used in the windows. If there are two Moyabamba Girls Carrying Water Pacing Page 290 PRIMITIVE CONSTRUCTION 291 stories, the floor is laid in logs or rafters close together, and on top of these a cement or clay is spread. No nails, or hardware of any kind are used, and iron im plements are very scarce. Just how an American car penter would go about building a city, without the aid of any of these prime requisites for the work, is a conundrum which I leave to the "wood butchers." The balcony at the corner of my room afforded me a shady nook from which I had a splendid view over the tops of Senor San Martine 's orange trees, to the blue mountains beyond. This was also a favorite position to note all that passed on the street within my range of vision. The opposite corner was a conspicuous loafing place for the young men of the town, several of whom, in short jackets and Panama hats, and always with naked feet, lounged about, smoking cigarettes. It is noticeable that every person, great or small, old or young, male or female, in Moyabamba, wears the one kind of hat, which we call "Panama," which is made extensively in the town. The senoritas wear hats that seem much too large for them. The "Americano" usually appeared on the street in a white or cream serge suit, with negligee shirt and red necktie, and a forty-nine cent straw hat of the summer previous, which I had not discarded because I found it preferable to their panama, as it was lighter and afforded more ventilation. The entire business of the town consists in the mak ing of Panama hats. The palm from which the nar row fibres are stripped, grows, or is cultivated there abouts in the greatest abundance. The Tiats of Moya-, 292 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW bamba were at one time traded extensively on the Pacific coast, and via Panama reached all portions of the civilized globe. This trade afforded the people quite comfortable incomes, but the advent of machines which could make a few thousand hats in less time than they could make one, deprived them of their occupation. It is one of the peculiarities of these people never to change their customs, and though there is little de mand for their hats at prices ridiculously low, they go on making them just the same, being content to dis pose of them for a few coppers each. Almost the entire female population, old and young, ugly and pretty, spend their lives with meshes of these palm straws in their laps, their fingers deftly weaving the numerous threads into proper shape, without any apparent attention on their part to the work. A peep into the cabins or huts of the poorest, or into the adobe dwellings of the best class will be sure to develop a couple of girls weaving hats. Satan could not "find mischief for idle hands to do " here, for they are busy all day long. It is only in the evening, just after dark, at precisely the same hour every day of the year, that all the girls of Moyabamba come out of the seclusion of their- cabins, and, chattering like blackbirds, flock toward the stores or bazaars, to offer their hats for sale. The buyers usually sit in an open room which is lighted with only one candle. The poor working girl hands him the labor of two or three days ; he quickly passes his fingers over it, as if to test the strength of the mesh, and hands it back to her, with an offer so low, that he assumes she will not accept. Sometimes, she does not, and then tries another customer, but the deal MAKING PANAMA HATS. 293 is usually made without the exchange of a single word. As my dinner, occurring at the hat-selling time, was not partaken of for several evenings, the cook arranged the hour to suit the sombrero connection, as I explained that under the cover of evening, I had better oppor tunity for studying character among the senoritas than when they were burdened with their water jars in the early morning. Considerable entertainment was afforded me when I pretended to offer my forty-nine cent straw hat in ex change for one of their make, as it excited as much curiosity and interest as one of their relics would in a company of our ladies. The hat girls looked it over carefully, passing it from one to another, with laughing comments. They usually move in groups of three or four, a formation of defensive tactics which gave more freedom in their intercourse with the stranger, or the enemy. After preliminaries, a bargain was made with a pretty little girl to buy a hat from her, which she would make to order, taking my measure by trying her hat on my head. In the course of a few days I was waited upon and presented with one of their select hats, made from the very finest of straws, carefully chosen, and prepared without flaw in color or form. I have forgotten how many narrow threads are required for one of these choice hats, but there are probably two or three times as many as in the ordinary sort. It was a very fine, pliable hat, of good shape, and as soft and flexible as a French felt travelling hat. I could roll it into a small space for my pocket, wash it, and make a bonnet shape 294 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW of it, as if it were a piece of cloth. Such a hat is valued there at fifteen soles, and would sell in our country for $40.00. I wore it over the Andes, with the gayly col ored pouch and wild goat horn drinking cup shown in cut. From my balcony porch in the corner of my casa, I noticed a young girl of rather frail and delicate physique and neat appearance. She glanced up with a curious smile as she passed, and when she saw that my attention was attracted, she ran off with a pleasant laugh. This bit of innocent flirtation was repeated on several days. One day, as she passed directly beneath my window, I dropped her a necklace with a pendant cross of brass, costing me ten cents in Iquitos, and worth about one cent at home. This cross was the hook, and the beads were the snare that caught the little girl's attention. With the cheap trophy held admiringly in her small brown hand, she turned her face, and in a sweet voice with the rising inflection peculiar to their interrogation, asked, "Para me?" (meaning, for me?) I thought at the time, and I think yet, that I never saw a prettier picture than this little senorita made at that moment with her dainty figure and bronzed happy face, and with the sunlight reflected in her dark brown eyes, which were beaming with most expressive gratitude. When I laughingly intimated that the token was of slight value, she bowed her head, smiling bewitchingly, and quietly observed: "Gracias, Senor," and then quickly ran off to her home to exhibit her jewelry. That evening the Napo guide, whom I had allowed to INEZ 295 amuse himself in his own way, told me that the whole town had heard that I had presented a certain girl with some jewelry, laughingly assuring me that these people had concluded that from this little incident that I was well stocked with jewelry, and as a consequence I would be besieged by young girls under my windows anxious to gain my favor in this line. I therefore immediately laid in a large stock of necklaces, rings, red handker chiefs, perfumeries, etc., and prepared to defend myself. CHAPTER XIX. ,S the proper names of persons associated with the traveller, or connected with this narrative, have been used, it being understood that the American news paper correspondent proposed making public acknowledgment to American readers, of their kindness to the solitary horseman, there will be no strain upon the proprieties, but rather a feeling of gratification on their part on seeing that they were remembered. These pages may reach these people, and perhaps some of them may be deemed worthy of translation into the Spanish in the interest of friends, and the cuts will amuse and interest the Indians who do not read any thing, but understand picture-writing. It is the best method of supplying an object or picture lesson to the natives, who will quickly identify the sketches of the "Americano," who, as they express it, "talks in a book." There are many disadvantages connected with life in these valleys, as compared with that in other lands. There are no newspapers, books or pictures. There is not a railroad within a thousand miles, and not even a wagon wheel in all that region, and happily the trolley is unknown. Everything goes and comes over the mountains on mules or carried on the backs of Indians, and the supply is necessarily limited. Of course there is no telegraph, telephone or electric 296 AN ARCADIA 297 light; no gas, and no coal to make heat. It is never cold or hot, and scant clothing is all sufficient the year around. One's early repose is not disturbed by the screechings of newsboys or the rattling of milk carts and bakers' wagons. Morning coffee is not interrupted by the reading of bulletins or the head-lines of the great dailies whose reputation rests upon boasted cir culation, and stock quotations do not affect the diges tion of our Moyabamba breakfast. The mails come at such long intervals that one loses interest in the delayed correspondence. As it is packed or "toted" on the backs of Indians, the pouches are "limited" to letters, papers being thrown out as useless and too cumbersome. The people here do not have' the benefit of the instruction of great statesmen and politicians, of lecturers and sensational preachers, re formers and philanthropists. There is no drunkenness, except among the Indians, though all who can afford it use claret at meals. Dys pepsia is unknown, and malaria is prevented by the use of a bitters made of a decoction of Peruvian bark in the rum from the sugar cane. As there is but little sickness, there are no doctors, and Christian Science is unknown. There are no lawyers, all differences being settled by reference to the officials. Neither are there any Women's Christian Temperance Societies, Salva tion Army people, or typewriters. There are no jails or large prisons, and no poorhouses or asylums as are necessary in our land. No one ever starved to death, and none even go hungry in the Land of To-Mor row, where people practice the Golden Rule and share with their neighbors. 298 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW There are no great manufacturing monopolies, sugar trusts or other combines of capital against labor, or vice versa, and these people are blissfully ignorant of the many blessings of civilization that great enterprises bring. Money is not the only object of life in this land where there is an abundance of everything — but money. Comparisons are odious, but I venture to add that the great difference between the two civilizations may be found in the fact that these quiet people have not learned to practice the characteristic American vice of over-eagerness to accumulate wealth at any cost; and they certainly exemplify the Golden Rule, and are not conspicuously guilty of the sin of ingratitude. In this Land of To-Morrow money will not purchase happiness; gold coins will not buy the smiles of the poorest, bare-footed senoritas of Utopia, all of whom must be approached cavalierly by lovers to obtain their favors. We all have the weaknesses inherent to humanity, but these so-called "ignorant people" are in many respects stronger than we. They certainly get more pleasure out of their lives, with all their limitations, than we do with every ad vantage in our favor. In this hidden valley, the say ing, "Where ignorance is bliss, 'twere folly to be wise," becomes a practical reality. A conception of an ideal life would be a home on one of the beautiful knolls at the foot of the mountains, overlooking the valley of Moyabamba, where one could build a model house from the numerous stones to be gathered from the ground. Hammer or chisel should not break the varied surfaces of these mossy rocks of which the outside walls would be laid with cement, to be made , AN IDEAL HOME 299 also from the ground. There should be many rustic porches and verandas, with deep windows, framed from the beautiful natural woods of that country. On the porches could be grown varieties of orchids, making picturesque hanging gardens under which to swing hammocks. Perhaps such a house would present an appearance of all roof and gables from the outside, but within there would be a comfortably furnished home, adapted to the tastes of the most cultured. One should be careful, however, to locate his little castle on an overhanging knoll of the mountain side, commanding a view of all the land, yet difficult of approach. While arranging for blissful repose in this ideal home, in the society of congenial friends, one should have a soldier's eye to the defensive position from at tacks of revolutionary mobs, that might result from the increasing civilization pf the peaceful valley. Though the people of this land may have been of common origin, the better classes preserve to a great extent the old worlds practice and teachings, that family and blood are of more worth than numbers in immigration, and incongruous as it may appear, even in this far away lovely valley, locked in between the two Andes, there is quite a distinctly drawn line of caste. It is not, however, a moneyed aristocracy, but in every respect that of family and good breeding. Our friends, Colonel Estaban and Judge Herreira, represent the aristocratic element from Lima to the-" coast, while Don San Martine is of a family widely and favorably known to the earliest Peruvian history. There are but few ladies of caste amongst the Moya- bambians, but those that are here live quite exclusively. 300 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW They do not make hats, and would scorn to do any work or be seen even carrying a package in this wilderness. They are seldom seen on the streets, but when they appear, they may be recognized by their dress and bear ing. They are the only ladies who wear shoes ; so that, even in the dark, when the sound of a number of little shoes is heard tapping along on the narrow sidewalk, everybody instinctively makes way for the passing of the senoras. Perhaps the Peruvian ladies of the upper class are not always as handsome as their barefooted sisters,. who, if they may not talk to the stranger, can speak with their pretty eyes. Experiences in early life, coupled with close study and some observation in after years, leads to the confirmation of earlier impressions that all women are flirts, which perhaps accounts for the other fact that all men are liars when talking to women. The combination makes quite a deal of trouble, but in my travels in civilized lands and out of the way places, I have never been able to find a section where there are girls and no flirts. They are alike in all lands. Indian girls, on top of the Andes, who have never seen a white man, flirt just as demurely and desperately as the belles of our ball-rooms. Girls are born that way; they can't help it, or resist the disposition of the original Eve of this valley to get Adam into trouble ; yet, "with all their faults, we love them still." Nestling in the valley between the first two ranges of the Cordilleras, this Amazonian Utopia, which seems to have more than its proportion of the descendents of Mother Eve, gives other evidences that it may have been the priginal Paradise of tne original Adam and PART OF THE ORIGINAL EDEN 301 Eve — from the abundance and variety of serpents, gen erally of the harmless sort, to be found there. Probably, with the one thousand old men, and a few dons and cavaliers, or Peruvian gentlemen, there were five thous and women, and great numbers of snakes in the moun tains. During the month of my stay I was the only blonde, far from home, and at the mercy of these five thousand brunettes, and the endless chain of snakes. Of the number of pretty senoritas, probably none attracted more attention than the delicate little bare footed, bareheaded girl of the street, with whom I jokingly played Romeo from the balcony window, in the bright light of a tropical day, the positions being reversed, Romeo occupying the balcony and Juliet the garden. She wore a loose gown with a colored, woven sash about the waist, characteristic of the young girls of Moyabamba, and which Miss Marlowe uses in the cos tume of Juliet. By way of making my poor pen picture of this Ama zonian Juliet more realistic, the reader is referred to photographs of Julia Marlowe in the costume of Juliet, which closely resembles the little girl Inez, but without Miss Marlowe's dimple. Inez had a prematurely old face, with that peculiarly sad expression of the dark eyes, and the quiet, indifferent manner of Miss Marlowe, as also the careless dressing of the hair and the graceful poise of the head. Though she was but thirteen (trece) she was quite a matured woman in that land, where girls often be come wives at ten and eleven years, and mothers at thirteen. 302 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW It is the current tradition that every sojourner in Moyabamba becomes the accepted lover of one of the belles, and when he takes his departure she accompanies him. It is said with some truth that any of the girls are glad of an opportunity to escape from this pent-up Utica. They probably realize that there are no oppor tunities for marrying in their own land, where there are so many girls and so few men. It is also true, that as a rule the senoritas prefer suitors from beyond the narrow limits of their own world. Those of the lower classes are not particular as to the antecedents of their blondes, nor solicitous regard ing their financial standing. The prime qualification and only condition being that her suitor should love her. She takes all the rest on faith. If he loves her and she loves him, she is contented and happy, and will follow him faithfully to the ends of the earth, or until death — and after all, isn't that phase of civiliza tion better than some, at least, of our mercenary, scheming sorts? Of course, she and her friends stipulate for the mar riage ceremony in the church, but if that is not prac ticable, some of them are willing to dispense with the services of a priest until a more convenient season. With the view of avoiding any tangling alliances, and desiring to lead among these people the exemplary life becoming an American citizen, it seemed diplomatic that attentions to these senoritas should be promiscuous, admiring each new girl more than the other. On account of her youth I thought Inez would be considered a mere child and out of the question; ROMEO AND JULIET 303 that a stranger naturally would show some attention to the little "Juliet" who lived opposite, and was more in evidence because she was a pretty child. She spent much of her time sitting in the doorway, laughing and chatting with her companions, occasionally throwing wicked glances from her dark eyes toward my balcony. A beautiful hand-made poncho of brilliant, well assorted colors peculiar to the Spanish taste, was hung as a screen or portierre before my window. It was of extra quality, fine in texture and quite gorgeous in its striped coloring. With a natural love for the beautiful, she expressed her admiration- of the poncho, or rug. She was jestingly told that it was for her to wear when she rode with the stranger to Lima. In that country the people are apt to take the free talking of an American too seriously. She asked at once, "Can I go to Lima with you ? ' ' "Of course," I replied, jokingly. She then said, "You must ask my madre." We discussed the matter for awhile in a jesting way, just as I would have done with any young girl of my acquaintance, never for a moment thinking that the subject would be seriously considered. I had almost forgotten the incident, when the madre (who, by the way, was her grandmother, her parents being dead), came to me to ascertain the terms upon which I should take her granddaughter into my care and keeping. It is not at all an exaggeration, or even a stretch of the imagination to record that this grandmother was prepared to sell her granddaughter to me, the only con sideration being the number of pieces of silver. 304 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW In all my readings of romance and fiction, and dur ing all my extensive travels and encounterings of queer people, I had never yet come across anything in cold fact quite approaching this. A beautiful, a really beautiful girl was offered for sale; that is, her grandmother's consent was given, which in effect and under Peruvian law is all that is required to make the girl an actual slave, for a trifling price to be paid to another. Of course, this would not stand without the consent of the third party, which in this case had been previously volunteered. It was a revelation to me, but the Napo interpreter, who was present as a grinning witness of my astonish ment, assured me that such a transaction was a common occurrence. It is difficult for a stranger to these customs to reconcile this feature of their civilization with our own. But it must be understood that in these countries, though the marriage ceremonies are frequently, dis pensed with on account of the expense and other diffi culties, it is a common practice for persons to live hap pily together all their lives, without reproach. They are true to their love. I was assured that if I desired the girl to accompany me to Lima it was only necessary for me to secure the consent of this old guardian, and that the law would protect the transaction. I modestly declined to negotiate, and desiring to con fer with Col. Estaban and others, with a view of learn ing the facts, another interview was suggested for the following evening. In looking the matter up, it was found that as an SPANISH MATRIMONIAL LAW 305 abstract question of law, the government does not take any account of women; that is, they are not recognized in law, but are permitted to do as they please in disposing of themselves, no questions being asked of a girl, if her parents are satisfied. According to Spanish law, a father's consent to a marriage must be had, until the girl is twenty-six years of age, but she can leave home at any time, and the parents cannot prevent it or compel her return, although the father can prevent her marriage. Subsequently, the little girl herself visited me, prob ably at her madre 's suggestion. In her serious, honest, and yet innocent manner, she implored me to take her away to Lima, or to America, or any place — she would go anywhere with me. When I attempted in a friendly way to advise her against going out in the wicked world, she insisted that she must go away, intimating that a worse fate would be hers if she remained. With hands clasped together, she stood beside me, the very picture of a determined little princess, and looking earnestly into my face, told me her story. Her father had been a Spanish or Peruvian military officer, who was killed in the late war with Chili; her grandparents, who were descendents of the Inca, had also been military people; her mother, one of Moya bamba 's famous belles, had died when she was a child. There were several in the family, all of them younger than herself and dependent upon the grandmother, who could not support them, and her remaining there was worse than death to her. It was her desire to go to Lima, where she could meet some friends of her father's. Her voice became 306 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW tremulous with emotion, and she continued, sobbing, "If you do not take me, I will kill myself." I consented that she should go, provided her grand mother would go with her as her protector, and my cook. I had previously agreed with Col. Estaban to allow two women to go in my party, on condition that they acted as cooks, by way of paying for their food, etc. In travelling across the mountains, a cook is one of the chief requisites. It was the custom for women and children to attach themselves to parties going over the mountains, and for the safety thus afforded them and for their food, they did the cooking for the company. My offer was to take Inez and her grandmother, in place of the two women who had been suggested to me. They could both ride upon the same mule, and the additional expense would be trifling. This was more than satisfactory, for the grandmother had intended going later, if an opportunity offered, taking the brother of Inez with her. After Inez left me, I feared that I had undertaken too much, and told the guide to so inform the grand mother, but was assured that it was a matter of busi ness and a real kindness, it was not at all an imprac ticable proposition. Not hearing from either the grandmother or the princess Inez (she said "Eness, at your service"), I gave it up as the end of a joke which I had carried on as an experiment. CHAPTER XX. OST reluctantly, we arranged to leave our Arcadia in the Land of To- Morrow, homeward bound by way of the Pacific and Panama, instead of the Amazon, the season of rains beginning in October making it advisable that we undertake the crossing of the further Andes while the trails were dry. Through the friendly and business interest of my friend and protege, Don Carlos Mouraille, of Iquitos, 1 had been provided with letters of credit to his corres pondent, Sr. Vincent Najar, a prominent merchant who was largely engaged in the business, and who had been over the route several times. He made all the arrange ments and provided us with cooked provisions instead of cooks (the Indians to prepare the meals for us) and with three riding mules and three pack mules to carry us and our supplies. On one of those perfect October mornings to be en joyed on the Equator in the Andes, we made our final calls on the Prefect and other friends. Then, mount ing the mules, and followed by the Napo guide, we were escorted to the edge of the settlement by the judge and some friends, where they gave us a sincere and last adios. Our route continued through the valley for some dis tance, the path or camino having the appearance of a swath cut through a dense thicket of bamboo and 307 308 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW wild sugar cane. Toward noon we forded the river and began a wild ascent of one of the smaller foothills of the large mountain. Inez and her grandmother had not been heard from during the previous day, and concluding that they had reconsidered the matter as I expected they would, I was more than astonished when the grandmother and some of her friends met us, unaccompanied by Inez. To my further consternation, I was informed that she was a mile or so ahead, waiting for us, the grandmother coolly explaining that she had brought her granddaugh ter thus far, and that she herself was returning to Moyabamba, to make some preparations to follow later ; for which purpose she asked me for some money to pay her expenses. I felt as if I were being held up by a bandit, and helplessly gave her all the money I had in my saddle bags, which was exactly ten pieces of silver — "soles" or dollars — feeling quite relieved to get off so easy. Approaching a small village toward evening, we were halted again on the trail by two women, one of whom was Inez and the other the old cook. The unex pected appearance of the trusting little girl, smilingly handing her bundle up for me to carry, caused me to swallow my indignation at the cook's presence, the Napo adroitly observing that Inez was now under proper protection. While in Moyabamba, the cunning fellow had been arranging matters to suit himself, though pretending to act as my interpreter. It was now too late to remedy the ridiculous situation in which the Napo had involved me in the wilds of Amazonia from his insane desire to THE INTERPRETER'S TRICKERY 309 imitate me. When it was jokingly arranged for the girl's journey, he had concluded that he would take the old cook for his share, and had successfully planned to substitute her for the grandmother. It subsequently transpired that the whole town knew of the affair, but considered it a very proper matter of business. Though there are no newspapers, gossip and scandal circulate very widely. Sr. Najar also seemed to have appreciated the situ ation, as he had slyly furnished an extra pack mule and some additional provisions. Some months afterwards, my friend Don Carlos laughingly informed me that the whole country, even down to Para, had heard of the episode which we imagined was being kept so quiet in the forests of Amazonia. One of my friends, however, our genial Colonel Estaban, did not especially enjoy the episode. The little Inez, who significantly asked me if the Prefect had escorted us out of town as was the custom, was amusingly relieved when I informed her that he was unfortunately absent. It subsequently developed that Inez, who was the little girl he was in love with and was disposed to claim as one of his special pre rogatives, had "escaped" with the Don Consul; but alas, alas! there is no telling the ways and tricks to whieh even Indian girls may -resort, to outwit the veter ans of our boasted civilization. As we emerge from the forests of fluvial Amazonia and ascend higher lands, the types, or physical characteristics of the natives are correspondingly im proved with the scenery, it seeming to be the natural 310 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW law of the land, that intellectual attainment is de veloped in direct ratio with the altitudes. In arranging for our complement of Indian guides beyond or west of Moyabamba, we were advised that it was best to leisurely await an opportunity to join the return of a convoy of Indians who would come from that direction with carga. It was explained that the Indians of the warm valley of Moyabamba could not be depended upon to cross the Central Andes where it was often so cold at night that they suffered because of their scant attire. Instead of sensibly pro viding fires, or warmer clothing, they would shiver awhile, and then run away from the "cold devil," leaving the traveller to starve or freeze on top of the mountains. Our escort was composed of a party of three half- breeds and eight or ten mules, who had come out with a cargo of goods for the merchant, Vicent Najar, and were returning with comparatively little, except that one mule was loaded with silver coin sewed up in skins, which was going to the coast as a remittance or payment for the goods. The' proprietor or owner of the mules, Andreas Rim- mache, who accompanied the party with his sons or relatives, lived in the valley of Molina Pampas, near the top of the Central Andes, and was therefore accus tomed to the climate and knew the country thoroughly. To his care, future travellers over the Andes are recom mended. I had intended that the Napo guide should leave here, but he had begged to accompany us from this point as a servant, piteously stipulating that he should not be INTERPRETER ON HIS DIGNITY 311 called upon to perform any menial duty while in the towns. This was brought about by an experience illustrating another of the odd characteristics of some of these people. Though wretchedly poor themselves, the half-breed class are proud, and however needy, they cannot be prevailed upon to wait upon other Indians or do that whieh would look like menial service, which is left to Indian servants, who are cheap and plenty. One evening the Indian washerwoman returned our clothes — without ironing, as is the custom — and left the bundle in one of the rooms of my quarters. As the Napo's clothes were in my bundle, he was directed to separate them and bring those belonging to me to my room. He took his own out leisurely, and after some delay, I mildly inquired about mine. He replied, just as mildly, that he could not find a boy. "Why don't you do it?" I asked in disgust. "I will not," he said with calm emphasis. ' ' Then go to the devil or back to Iquitos ! " I retorted, angrily. "I am not above carrying my own linen to the-next house, and you are no better ! ' ' I explained, emphatically, that I did not require his companionship any longer, but subsequently, he begged to be allowed to continue with me, as stipulated. My friend, Col. Estaban, who spoke excellent Eng lish, had kindly cautioned me against the Napo half- breed, intimating that he was misrepresenting himself, and making use of the assumed relation for his own benefit. The appearance of the old cook, along with the Inca, seemed to confirm these hints. It was evident 312 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW that the Napo had arranged to have the cook take the place of the grandmother. When the little girl came running up to me with her bundle in her arms and smiling assuringly, I could not reject her, but felt somehow as if it were my duty to take care of her until the grandmother should join us, which she had said she would do, even though it in volved the incubas of the cook and the Napo for a few days. There was no provision for mules on the first day, and the women, in their bare feet, had started ahead. In reply to my suggestion that Inez should get on behind with me, she laughingly declined, saying that she preferred to walk. As she tripped along gaily and happily by my side, she explained that her madre would join us with her brother, and all would go to Lima together, which struck me as rather more than bargained for. I mildly endeavored to tell her that I didn't want to run away with the whole family. A dark cloud in the western horizon, that appears in the afternoons at that season, threatened to drench us before we could reach the proposed camp or shelter of the tambo. Inez urged me to ride ahead, leaving her and the cook to take the downpour. She was given one of my rubber ponchos, which she threw over her head, and with a glance of appreciation, ran on like a frightened deer. In the evening, in a drenching rain, we again crossed the Mayo river in canoes, swimming the mules, and camped in the tambo on the other shore. The cook prepared coffee, while the Napo arranged the beds for Ferry in Balsa on the Rio Maya Facing Page 312 THE FIRST NIGHT IN CAMP 313 the night. As soon as it became dark, all turned in; the cook and Inez under the same blanket. A fire burned brightly on the outer edge of the tambo, around which the Indians sat, or rather crouched, and chatted long after I had gone to sleep, to dream of the many curious experiences to be enjoyed in out of the way places, and that are not to be obtained by the payment of money, so often required to insure the hos pitalities of modern life. The next morning, after the usual coffee, the cook and Inez prepared to start ahead of the party to the next town of Riajo, a. couple of leagues distant on the other side of which they would again join us. With a desire to add to the scant attire of the little princess that she would be more comfortable when reaching the cold places, I attempted to slip into her hands a few silver soles, or dollars, to enable her to purchase in the town what she needed. It was not a large sum, but probably more than had ever touched her palm before. Instead of eagerly grasping the coin, however, to my embarrassment she held it hesitatingly in her open hand, so that everybody could see, glanc ing with surprise at the tempting coin, and inquiringly toward me, as if doubting my sincerity. The more practical cook relieved the situation by urging her to get ready to go to Riajo and buy a hat, which was just the one thing that she didn't need, but that all seem to think necessary, even if the body is half uncovered. The Indians of this region all wear hats, but no shoes. The town of Riajo, in appearance like all the rest, is situated near the eastern or upper end of the valley, 314 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW about two days' travel from Moyabamba, which is in the centre. We had breakfast with the Alcalde or Governador, to whom I was endorsed by Colonel Estaban. There were, in the house, two pretty daughters of this Governador, one nursing a bouncing baby and the other perched on a window- shelf indifferently making hats. The young mother being rather the prettiest of the two, I essayed to compliment her on her nice baby, when she asked me how many boys I had. "Oh," I exclaimed, in affected surprise, "I am not married. ' ' She did not seem to understand, but persisted, "Yes, but you have some boys." "No, indeed," I replied, "but I would like to have a nice little boy like yours ; but the trouble is, all the nice girls like you are married to somebody." "But," she said demurely, "I am not married to anybody." At the risk of the conversation becoming embar rassing, I continued: "I wonder if I can find as nice a girl as you in Lima, where I am going ? ' ' "Oh," she said with a laugh, "you don't need to worry about that as Jong as you have one along." We had supposed, as a matter of course, that no one knew about the princess and the cook, who had gone through ahead of us, but the Governador 's daugh ters, as well as the father and mother thought it compli mentary to the young girl that the Americano had consented to escort her. In the evening we reached a beautiful location for our camp, on the grassy knoll around which a stream INEZ SHOPPING 315 of clear water coursed, in the upper end of the lovely valley, just at the base of the foothills of the Central Andes. Here we were again joined by Inez and the old cook, the latter looking quite fatigued, but the little Indian princess was laughing and looked fresh and bright as she ran along, a brand new Panama hat tipped back on her head, her long black hair flowing loosely, a red cotton handkerchief around her throat, and a sash binding her loose gown to her slender waist. Advancing proudly to exhibit her purchases, the odor of perfumery was so noticeable that I could scarcely avoid showing my curiosity. As if lifting her hat in salute, she handed me her new Panama, which was worth about one sole, pointing to the hand kerchief around her throat, which was worth a few pennies, as trophies of her skill in shopping. The cook supplemented the scene with the comment that the balance — some two-thirds of the allowance — had been expended in Florida water. Greatly amused, I laughed hilariously, to Inez' con fusion and astonishment. She was assured, however, that her efforts for improvement were fully appre ciated, as I sniffed again and again, with pretended delight, the really nice perfume. She had fairly satur ated her thick dark hair with the contents of a couple of bottles that were quite high-priced in that land. Florida water from New York, and beer from Germany, may be found on top of all the Andes. There was something of the Indian in Inez, but it was of the Inca type of the mountains, whose blood 316 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW had descended through generations of the Spanish Peruvians into the people of the valleys. The Inca, though conquered and almost annihilated by Pizarro 's cruelties, never became a Spaniard. The Inca, conquering the Indian, made an Inca- of him, but the Spaniard never made a Spaniard of the Inca, and, whatever may be the philosophy of the books, the facts are apparent in the blood of the Incas, as shown in their descendents. While the Napo guide and the cook prepared supper for us, Inez, in her childish glee, tripped about the grassy knoll; her bright face reflecting the last rays of the crimson sun, which was sinking behind the western Andes. She was the living concentration of the ardent sunshine of fifteen consecutive summers, which warmed the blood which flowed through her veins, lending her beauty and animation and causing her to blossom into this orchid, or La Flor de los Andes. The little Inca princess wore a necklace of the teeth of young monkeys, which are pure white and of a peculiar shape. They were strung on a fine tendril as tough as wire. Alternating each tooth was either a red shell or berry, some uncut Brazilian pebbles that resembled rough diamonds, and also some native opals such as are found in volcanic countries, with a string of alligator or tiger teeth pendant. After dark the cook and Inez enjoyed a bath in the flowing river at the foot of the hill. Bath ing in the rivers of this land is free to both sexes. There is something of that indifference to the con ventionalities of dry land as may be found at our seaside resorts. The difference is not of style, but AN UNFORGOTTEN NIGHT ON THE ANDES 317 rather of the necessity which compels the adoption of scant bathing costumes. Under the thatched palm tambo were spread the blankets of our party, including those of a few Indians who had come in from an opposite course. The carga, as it is called, including saddles, packs, provisions and coin, was piled on the edges as a sort of protection from draft, and for safety and conven ience. It was altogether quite like a dormitory. The "lay-down" of Inez and the cook was placed in a secluded corner flanked by the saddles and baggage. Awakened from a dream by the sound of suppressed sobbing almost smothered by the snores of the Indians, I glanced over the sleeping figures and saw, sitting by the dying embers of the camp fire, the crouching form of the Inca princess. (Referring to my notebook, which contains the auto graph of the small savage, written in good style, are these words, that express more forcibly than I can depict in these pages, the pathos of this scene: "A night's experience on the knoll never to be forgotten. The little Inca in tears.") Rising quietly, with blanket thrown over my shoul ders, I approached her, but was received with cool in difference. When asked to tell her trouble, assuring her of my sympathy, she seemed to feel more uncomfortable, and would only say in Spanish, "I don't want to go back." It seemed that through some false interpretation of the Napo, who had been jealous of the girl, he had threatened her with a return to Moyabamba. He had exaggerated my indignation at his own conduct to mean 318 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW that if a favorable opportunity occurred, they should be sent back home, that I might be relieved of all re sponsibility. Surrounded by sleeping Indians, in the quiet of a midnight, in the shadows of the Andes, I assured her of my protection, and that she should not be afraid of the Napo. Through glistening tears, she gave me thank ful glances. When urged to return to her bed with the cook, as the night air was chilling, she declined with that odd resistance characteristic of the blood, saying pet tishly that she wanted coffee; and, perhaps to gratify a desire to be even with the Napo, she insisted upon making him get out of his blanket to wait upon her, by getting the coffee and sugar from the pack of provisions. She would scarcely look at him, but sat by the fire, requiring that everything be laid at her feet, while she made such coffee as only a Moyabamba girl can make. From my cot I watched with amused interest, her deft fingers, as she proceeded with the operation, shielding her eyes from the smoke with one hand, whilft she manipulated the fire and the coffee pot with the other. After it had been prepared exactly to suit her taste she glided over to my cot, and kneeling down familiarly, served me with coffee. In the moonlight of the Andes, we drank together this cup of friendship. WE DRANK FROM THE SAME CUP 319 "There are bonds of all sorts in this world of ours, Fetters of friendship and ties of flowers, And true lovers' knots, I ween. The boy and the girl are bound by a kiss, But there was never a bond, old friends, like this. We drank (coffee) from the same canteen." CHAPTER XXI. T is while we sleep that the events of the days and nights spent on the edge of this paradise are forgotten. The mild southern moon looked down be- nignantly upon our wakefulness. It was only after it had dipped behind the towering Andes that we slept sweetly under the mantle of its deep shadows — shadows that induced repose as quiet and restful as the mountains themselves. The red glare of the rising sun in our eastern horizon cast its penetrating beams beneath the roofs of our arbor of palm leaves, reflecting a crimson blush upon our indolence, causing us to rise and dress quickly. The Indians had arisen early, as is their custom, the packs having gone ahead, leaving Andreas with the saddles to await our pleasure. Each mule will carry over the Andes five or six arrobas of twenty-five pounds each. There were several mules going back partly loaded, and it was easily arranged with the thrifty Andreas to provide riding accommodations for Inez and the cook separately, on top of the lighter packs that had been divided to suit. As there were no extra saddles, this gave them more comfortable seats than the bare backs of frisky mules accustomed to packs only. There is a difference be tween pack and riding mules, as one will find out suddenly who tries to ride a pack mule. 320 RIDING ON PACK MULES 321 It is the universal custom in that country for women to ride astride of their horses the same as men. At first sight this may not seem genteel, but after one be comes accustomed to it, you realize that it is another evidence that in their wildness, their civilization is as advanced as our own. It is better suited to the animal and is more comfortable and secure as well as more graceful for the lady riders. The little Indian girl, like all the others, had been accustomed to ride ponies on the pampas, but was rather averse to getting on a mule, saying that she pre ferred to walk. Though poor and of humble associa tions, she was as proud and high spirited as a genuine princess. The argument that I rode a mule had no bearing on her case. It was only after Andreas had ex plained that horses could not climb the paths over the mountains that she consented to be lifted to the back of a mule. I had given her the use of the fancy poncho, pre viously described, of fine wool colored in the stripes of the Spanish taste. A poncho is simply a fine travelling blanket or shawl, or as the English would call it, a rug. It is woven square, the only difference being that the poncho has an opening in the middle large enough to pass over the head. It rests on the shoulders loosely, permitting the folds to fall gracefully around the form, while the stripes running across, are not con cealed in these folds as is the case with our draperies. If it were possible to photograph or paint a com bination of rich coloring surrounding the animated face and graceful bearing of a pretty girl, with a back ground of the tropical Andes towering to a sky forever 322 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW blue, this child of the forest as she sat' on the mule, would present an unconscious living model for the artist. Seated like a circus rider, her lithe form concealed under the gorgeous coloring of the poncho, the pensive but happy face and bright eyes looking rather defiantly through the mass of loose hair that, like little Lord Fauntleroy's, hung carelessly over her left eye, under the Panama hat, she was the living picture of a beau tiful Italian boy of about ten years, such as one may see in art galleries. Impressed with her boyish appearance under the hat, her form and dress being concealed by the flowing pon cho, my admiration, and the thought of her convenience, prompted the playful suggestion that she should hence forth travel with me to Lima as a boy. She resented the proposition with a burst of indignation that sur prised me, and before I could recover myself sufficiently to explain, she rode off disdainfully, with a command to the cook to follow her. She rode with an easy grace, indifferent to all the surroundings, and purposely pre vented my getting alongside of her for an hour or two. If in any way, this narrative may have created the impression that these Indian girls are tractable or easily influenced, it is proper to correct it. They have their own ideas of the eternal fitness of things, and of the proprieties; perhaps some of their peculiarities may seem absurd to us, yet they continue to entertain their own notions and adhere to and practice their con victions. In a few hours we reached the base of the mountains, which seemed to precipitately cross our path like an A ROCKY CAMINO 323 immense wall of loosely tumbled colossal rocks, through the crevices of which the tropical pine thorns and cactus plants persistently forced themselves. The mules which had gone ahead were awaiting us here, and all were required to dismount while Andreas re-arranged the packs and examined the girths, pre paratory to the ascent. The trail or camino leading over the rocky surface could not be clearly outlined. It looked as if we were attempting the ascent of an avalanche of immense boulders. Andreas told me seriously that they were the steps to purgatory, and reassuringly observed, with, unconscious humor, that we should ' ' get there all right, if we could only stick to the mules." The boss Indian hurried us on, as we must get over the mountains in the middle of the day and down into the other valley before the evening rains could overtake us and add a rush of water to the permanent obstacles. The pack mules went ahead, single file, the Indians on foot driving or poking them with sharp sticks when it was necessary for them to make extra exertion in order to surmount very difficult ob stacles, stopping after each effort to recover breath. Allowing the cook, the Napo guide and Inez to pre cede, I brought up the rear with Andreas afoot, that he might keep his eye on all that was in front. The upward path seemed to zig-zag in an aimless winding as if seeking to avoid boulders rather than to lead to any place in particular. It is no exaggeration to say that the mules jump or leap abrupt places .that a goat could scarcely climb. Sometimes these were on the ragged edge of the narrow 324 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW path of despair hewed out of the mountainsides, the upper part of which our legs rubbed against, the jut ting, rocky hills towering far above us; on the other side of which was the deep, rocky valley from whence we had been laboriously ascending. The slightest misstep of the mule, or thQ sliding of a loose stone, or a failure to gain a good foothold in a spring, must cause a stumble that could have no other result than to precipitate mule and rider into the awful abyss. One wants to be nonchalant when suspended in a dangerous position, but this rocky experience on a mule was discouraging, and when approaching some espec ially bad looking places, I ingloriously dismounted, walking with Andreas and driving my mule ahead. Inez, from her perch on the pack, seemed to be in even greater danger, yet she bravely kept her eyes looking straight forward, remaining silent. The Indians forcing the mules made peculiar cries, sounding to me at first like the cries of one who had gone over the bank. "Mulas ! Mulas !" they would shriek, as they prodded the panting beasts like steers driven to slaughter. When Inez looked around during a rest and saw me on foot she laughed scornfully, and feeling ashamed of my position, I at once remounted, preferring to face the dangers of the road rather than her ridicule. Naturally the rider with the reins in his hands will attempt to guide the mule and pick out the best places, but there are no best places, and the paths are so nar row that guiding is unnecessary. When the mule comes to a jump-up, the rider instinctively draws the ROUGH RIDING 325 reins as if to assist in the jump. Inez, noticing this and my nervous watching of the rocky path, gave me a pointer on mule rough riding over the mountains, that was useful to me in the days following. In pan tomimic gestures — like those of a circus girl on a padded riding horse — she folded her hands, and turn ing her face upwards, closed her eyes as if in final prayer, while the swearing Indians made her mule jump over a bad place. The lesson she desired to teach was not to look at the road, but glance upward and pray for safety. To have more faith. This advice or example was fol lowed literally, and thereafter the reins were dropped, but I instinctively grasped for the mule's mane, and pressing my knees so tightly against his sides that he grunted, he took the jump, while with eyes closed, I said a short prayer in somewhat of a hurry. One thus learns to place faith in the mule. After much tribulation, we reached one of the sum mits where we rested for lunch and had a final view of "Paradise Lost." This might appropriately be called "Looking Backward" from the top of the Central Andes, over the beautiful Land of To-Morrow. The point affords a view of surpassing grandeur and pastoral loveliness such as may not in its pecu liarly tropical aspects be found at any other place on this continent. One can hardly visit every place which is noted for its picturesque scenery, yet the tourist who has viewed the grandest on exhibition in our own country, and some of that of the Alps, and who has also been an enthusiastic admirer of the noted pictures in many 326 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW galleries, is free to say that he has never seen or heard of anything that will compare with the glorious scenery of the Equatorial Andes. As a rule, i't is upon such an extensive scale of gran deur, that the eye of the traveller cannot encompass, nor the intellect retain the impression of all the beau tiful scenes that are everywhere spread out before him. That of the valley of Moyabamba remains in memory as the loveliest and fairest. The town of Moyabamba, which occupies the centre of the valley, though more than two days distant, was as distinctly laid out before us in the clear air as if it were but a short ride beyond Riaja, which seemed to be at the very base of the mountains. Inez, whose world was here before her, or whose conception of the world beyond was probably based upon her ideas of this paradise, looked sadly backward, but not realizing that she was doomed to a life of dis appointment in the outside world to whieh she longed to go and toward which she was journeying. She was assured again that she could return any time she might desire it. It was difficult in my poor Spanish to make her comprehend the civilized idea, that a woman could have her own way about such matters; and she could not understand why anyone should think it was possible for her to change her own mind. Reluctantly mounting, we sorrowfully turned our backs to the east, and soon began the descent into the valley on the western side. Getting tired of her cramped seat on the mules 's back, the little girl at tempted to take a lesson from me in riding side saddle AN ANDES EPISODE 327 style, creating considerable amusement and some con sternation to the mule and Andreas. When the mule made a lurch, that would slightly unbalance Inez, she would scream just like civilized girls do, but would coquettishly and pettishly refuse assistance. The descent led into a small valley quite shaded by the heavy foliage. A profusion of ferns of rare and fine varieties growing along the sides of the hill as fringes to numerous little falls, attracted my attention. Quite a number were plucked and arranged as a back ing or setting for some pretty wild flowers. This seemed to interest not only the senorita, but the Indians to whom ferns and flowers were as leaves and grass. Riding alongside of the little girl, with mock gravity intended to be amusing, I doffed my hat, and with a dignified bow, handed her the bouquet. Instead of being amused she took is so seriously and earnestly that my surprise afforded more entertainment than if she had accepted the flowers in a humorous spirit. The Indians too, who had watched the performance, looked upon it as a ceremony of some significance, the guide saying that the act of giving her the flowers had meant that I also offered myself ; and that in accepting them in her left hand she had placed herself under my protection. In the descent our tactics were reversed; instead of frantically grabbing the mule's mane or reaching for ward as if to crawl over his head, as he sometimes almost stood on his hind feet, we were now obliged to grasp the tail, and laying back, reach for the ears with our feet for stirrups. It was more dangerous going down than coming up. 328 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Indian Huts on the Andes LOOKING BACKWARD 329 After considerable parleying, Inez was prevailed upon to take a blanket saddle seat behind me on my mule. She would not get up, however,, until all the others were out of sight. The Indian girls have a sensitive dread of ridicule, and to attempt familiarity or a caress in the presence of others, usually results in repellant indignation. While they are not at all modest in some matters, where it should be becoming they certainly resent anything resembling indecency in their public intercourse. While screening herself on the other side of the mule, she had a way before mounting of deftly bring ing forward the back breadths of her skirt, which she tucked up in front under her sash or belt, giving her a placidly picturesque and impromptu bloomer ap pearance that was stunning. When astride the mule her shapely, lightly bronzed limbs were well outlined against the red blanket, making another model for the artist. As she thus sat astride of my mule, we descended into the valley. Beeause of our caution we were getting far into the rear of the caravan and almost lost ourselves. The roughness of the road increased its terrors, and at every bad place she would scream just like other girls, and suddenly clasp her arms so tightly about me that I was unable to steer the mule safely. Any attempt on my part at looking backward to see that she was all right was resented with a not too gentle slap, and if the other cheek was turned it was treated in the same manner. Our evening camp was in a triangular little glen, so 330 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW completely hemmed in by high mountains that only the rays of the midday sun penetrated its solitude. Before we got to the tambo Inez slid off of the mule and ran ahead to meet the cook. It being oppressively warm and close, the Indians had already unsaddled the packs and turned the mules loose to roll and feed on the grass, while thev bathed in the waters of the stream. The guide was like a mule in more ways than one. He was treacherous, stupid and stubborn, and when he wished to rest it was his custom to roll on the grass and yell quite as a mule bellowed. As previously stated, there was in the carga with us quite a lot of silver coin, in charge of Andreas to be taken to the next relay en route for Lima. It was in the usual rolls of ten silver dollars sewed up tightly in skins, making solid packages; but no more attention was given to this coin than to our bags of provisions or clothing. Sometimes the mule carrying the silver coin would be ahead, almost out of sight of the Indians, and on reaching a tambo the load was thrown down indifferently with the saddles. A highway robbery has never been known on that lonely trail, where thousands upon thousands of dol lars in coin and valuable goods are sent through dense solitudes in the care of Indians only, without any thought of a convoy of guards. Nothing was ever stolen from me, and no effort was deemed necessary for protection; which facts are stated by way of compar ison with our advanced Christian civilization, where train robberies occur almost in the suburbs of our cities. HONEST INDIANS 331 Until the senorita joined us in our travels, the Napo guide had appropriated to himself the honor or dis tinction, as it is conceded in that land, of eating with the padrone. There had been tinned porcelain ware and silver knives and forks provided for two only. When the useful cook was prepared to serve coffee and a stew of pounded beef and onions on the top of my box or trunk, Inez was invited to dine with "Don Jose," thus giving her the seat of honor and the dishes the Napo had been accustomed to use. He, therefore, sullenly took a place at the foot of the table, as not to have made his appearance would have degraded him in the eyes of the Indians. This bit of social etiquette had the effect of pleasing the cook, who laughingly placed the bouquet of ferns and wild flowers on our impromptu table. The senorita, though quite happy over the inci dent, was too much of an Indian to express or show her pleasure, but seemed to take it as a matter of course. All being tired, we slept so comfortably that the cook was late in serving us with early coffee. In saddling and packing up, there was an animated conversation between the guide and the Indians, the little girl being apparently an indifferent listener. The Napo was in a rage, and protested that his saddle was being placed on Inez' mule. No such orders had been given, but Andreas mildly suggested, ' ' But the senorita wants it so," intimating that as the padrone paid for the mules, it should be as he wished. As a matter of right, the Napo was probably entitled to the saddle, but as he had lied so outrageously and deliberately added to my expense and embarrassment, 332 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW and was otherwise so treacherous, that he was not entitled to any favors. With a desire to be just, how- over, it was suggested that he gallantly yield this preference to the young girl. He had become insanely jealous of her, and incau tiously began to abuse her to me with a view of dis crediting her. The little girl stood some distance off, not understanding one word of the heated discussion, but watching for the result. On glancing toward her, her eyes met mine with a reassuring look of confidence that seemed to say, "It makes no difference how much they talk, I'll get the mule and saddle." And she did. She had fastened my bouquet to her frowsy hair. The Napo had the choice of returning from this point or of riding bareback the balance of the journey. He accepted the latter situation with a mental reserva tion, no doubt, to get even. The next day was Domingo, or Sunday, which is a holiday in the towns of that land. This, however, does not count on the trail where it is necessary to rush through to places of safety and comfort. CHAPTER XXII. EVERAL months with Indians and mules ,£¦ on the Andes is liable to make the crit- cal Anglo-Saxon part with any sym pathy he may have entertained for the aborigines of Equatorial America, and to increase his respect for and confi dence in the much abused mule. Appar ently, there is not very much differ ence ; in one respect at least the mule has the advantage over the biped, he never gets drunk. The little Spanish mule with the big head and solemn looking countenance and very large ears for such small "pitchers," is in some respects more intelligent and certainly a more humorous animal than the stolid, common, full-blooded Indian. Both of them carry the same serious expres sion that means deviltry instead of innocence. The pack mules are turned loose to be driven along the narrow camino by the Indians on foot, ahead of the riding mules. There is usually a leader or bell mule who knows the road and appreciates the importance of his position and sometimes takes liberties and gets out of sight in advance, that he may have the choice picking at some tender grass while he leisurely awaits the approach of the others with whom he refuses to associate, and continues to "move on." There are in the packs, perhaps, other ambitious mules that desire to get ahead of the leader, and this is where the fun comes in. They will go sneaking along coyly, stopping 333 334 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW here and there to nibble innocently, when suddenly, as if startled by a gunshot, break ahead on a run in a desperate attempt to pass the mules ahead of them. But the boss mule had also one eye on his followers, and though loaded down with a pack, he would spring into the narrow trail and gallop ahead until he would reach a point where it would be impossible to pass him. Sometimes their sportiveness became dangerous to those who were riding in the caravan with pack- mules. It is always best to give the packs the advance ; if too closely in the rear they are liable to claim their position and go ahead; the mule you ride will certainly object to this, and a race ensues between a mule carrying a huge pack and the one you ride, whether you .like it or not. If the pack is astride of your competitor, instead of on top, it possibly occupies the entire width of the narrow camino, which fact the mule does not seem to comprehend. If in the rush, the bulky sides come in contact with your legs, of course the tender part yields to the hard pack, to your distress. The rider soon learns to avoid these dangerous passes, or the meeting with the loaded mules, by lifting the obtruding leg to avoid the crushing contact. In many places the camino is the narrow crevice made by ages of running waters as deep and precipitous as are railroad cuts in the yellow clay soil; there are deep gullies or V shaped cuts so narrow at the bottom that scarcely a mule can find a level footing, the sides of which are so precipitous that it would be impossible for a mule to turn around or climb out. When entering these narrow places the custom is to THE RIGHT OF WAY 335 send an Indian ahead who shouts signals to prevent others from entering until the passage is clear. At one such place we encountered a caravan coming from an opposite direction who were driving wild steers or cattle, presenting the horns of several dilemmas that threatened serious consequences. Indians are as con trary as the white man. Neither advancing party was disposed to yield to the other. After much pow-wow, the difficulty was overcome by Andreas and the Napo stampeding the steers who managed to turn themselves and charge back on their drivers and cleared the way for us. The severely practical experiences in crossing the Andes three miles above the earth on a mule, might afford the scientist as interesting opportunity for ob servation as could be obtained from a balloon at a sim ilar elevation from which the aeriel scientist ordin arily limits his higher studies or observations. He might go to Amazonia and avail himself of the reliable services of the mule, who will carry him as high as his ambitious aspirations desire. When he gets tired and exhausted he can stop the mule, if he can 't the balloon. The meteorological balloonist sometimes overlooks the important fact that beyond a certain altitude human or animal life does not exist, while at great elevations delicate instruments even though protected like the aeronaut by such an armor as sea divers use, must be come unreliable. The sudden ascent in a balloon is also more apt to interfere with calculations and to produce ill effects that are obviated by the gradual ascent on mules. The dizzy, sea-sickening sensation at great altitudes, 336 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW known as soroche, is scarcely felt, by the almost imper ceptible ascent during many days and weeks, one be comes accustomed to it so gradually that no incon venience is experienced except the shortness of breath or difficulty in breathing. As a preventive of nausea the Indians crush a bit of garlic or strong onion which they inhale. The several summits of the trail reach between 12,000 and 18,000 feet, but there are numerous peaks much higher. When on the higher parts of the road any over-exer tion will result in a total collapse with profuse bleed ing from the nose and ears, intense pain in the spinal column of neck, and also nausea. Fortunately, one does not have to delay on these summits, the schedule for the day's travel being arranged to pass them near mid-day, as it would be dangerous to remain over night without unusual protection from the cold in that rare fied atmosphere. At all of these higher points, the immediate surrounding are barren, except perhaps, a few stunted trees of pine and a tough bunch of grass with an odd flower that resembled the white flower used for burial wreaths. We always found a cross on the highest points, that marked the divide, or cumbre, like a guide-post, and invariably a grand view beyond. One sometimes feels that the intelligent mule appre ciated the views equally with the rider. When we would suddenly come upon a summit or a turn that afforded an extensive outlook beyond, the mule would instinctively stop, look ahead wisely and give a sigh of admiration that would almost burst the saddle girth. If spoken to he would prick up his big ears, looking Scaling the Andes on Mules Facing Page 336 ROCKY ROADS 337 around, as if to say, "I beg pardon," and then trot off down the mountain. Rough riding down the Andes is scarcely less exhil arating then the exercise necessary to cling to his mane coming up. If the road is rocky, as is apt to be the case, on coming to a rather deep step, he will gather his four feet togther for a spring and suddenly make the jump, landing on his two front feet on another rock some distance below. The hind feet come along after awhile, but one feels that they are in the air for a long time. If on the other hand it is rainy and the road is a slippery clay, he will slide down a declivity as gracefully as a left-footed girl on an ice slide. As previously intimated it is only necessary to place your confidence in the mules — they will get there all right if left to their own way. Before we reached the end of our eight days' relay, in crossing the Central Andes, we encountered some of the severe rains that come up in the evenings of the October days. This downpour quickly filled the water ways and gulleys, the beds of which formed the trails or caminos up the sides of the mountains. The running water serves a double purpose of keeping down the dense growth and also of bringing to the surface a crop of loose stones that mark out the road on these rivulets. The traveller who happens to be on the road from October to May, or the rainy season, takes the double risk of being both washed out and delayed, and the exposure to the cold rain storms. Sometimes we could not see the bottom of the trail, the mules wading knee- deep in running water. But Don Quixote-like, we kept 338 THE LAND OF TOMORROW on blindly, sometimes charging up a rushing torrent or going down stream astride of a cascade. We all suffered considerably from the cold rains before reaching Chachapoyas; the little Indian girl was frequently drenched, but with all the discomfort continued the most cheerful of the party. On arriv ing at a tambo one evening she had to be lifted from the mule. She was shivering, and her cold wet cloth ing was clinging to her frail form. Apprehending dis astrous results, the baggage was unpacked, and she was given a good dose of brandy, while the old cook bathed her, putting over her head a fancy overshirt. She soon revived and was quite proud of her appear ance in a blue negligee shirt with a broad collar and red lacings with tassels in front. A rubber blanket or poncho is not as desirable for travelling, or to wear in a rain, as an ordinary heavy woolen blanket. One becomes saturated as soon as the other, while the woolen is not so cold. The rubber is more useful as a covering for a tent or stretched over the bed at night. On one of the afternoons we rode along one bank of a rapidly running river through a valley on the oppo site side of which rose almost precipitately out of the water a towering precipice on the rocky sides and crevices of which numerous parasitic plants or orchids had attached themselves, the pendant vines creating a beautiful representation of a hanging garden. On the banks were overhanging trees from which long ringlets of moss were drooping over the water, resem bling miles of weeping willows. The silence of the beautiful valley was made more impressive by the deep rumbling echoes of the rushing waters, intensified THE LAND OF ORCHIDS 339 by an occasional shrill note from some of the large birds that sang as they flew up and down in search of fish. The trail was fairly bordered with shrubbery bearing variously colored blooms, struggling to show their beauty through masses of tall green foliage of the tree tops which seem to blossom in these secluded val leys, when protected from the cold winds by the sur rounding mountain tops. In this Land of Eternal Summer even the decaying trunks of old trees put forth their efforts to add to the beauty of the scene by means of the parasite and orchids which in the greatest abundance attached them selves to dead wood, numbers of the most beautiful varieties growing to the same limbs from which the moss was so gracefully pendant. Amazonia is the land of orchids. "Those radiant expressions of nature's artistic soul." In the forests of the upper affluents of the Amazon river are found the rarest of the species peculiar to that altitude. In this region the collection or orchids has not become a matter of commerce, beeause of its remote ness, though the rarest and finest varieties may be found in these valleys. The species best adapted for transplanting to our climate are gathered in the higher altitudes'. In the journey from the Atlantic ocean, during the months, weeks and days, we have probably never been out of sight or reach of orchids. In the vicinity of Moyabamba they are to be found in the greatest abun dance and variety. The orchid is well known as an air plant or parasite, 340 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW which in some unknown way attaches itself to the dead trunks of trees, far from the ground, there being no earth roots, its origin being somewhat of a mystery as is also its existence. It is not propogated there by seed, and why or where it springs from affords room for as much difference of opinion as there are endless varieties of the beautiful plant. The orchid is the flower of the Land of To-Morrow. It became a habit to compliment Inez in the Spanish as "La flor de los Andes" (the flower of the Andes), and in the sense of looking backward, it seems to have been a rude plucking of a beautiful, rare orchid from its native home, to carry away to transplant and hope to bloom as an exotic in a cold, inhospitable clime. As we go westward and upward, always upward, weary from the tedious ascent of mountains day after day, reaching each summit almost exhausted, and look ing beyond to other mountains resembling grey clouds in the western horizon, a rude cross was sure to be found on the most prominent points, where it was cus tomary halt for a rest. In some sequestered nooks in the valleys we also passed numerous shrines located perhaps in natural grottoes, in apparently inaccessible places on the sides of precipitous cliffs, overhanging wildly rushing waters, where the Jesuit missionaries had in some way managed to make very fair represen tations of the altars of the Catholic church, the inac cessibility creating an impression of being miraculously placed. The traveller, reared a Protestant, who has looked upon the altars of St. Peter 's in Rome and the Madaline and Notre Dame of Paris, and old' churches of Latin SHRINES IN THE VALLEYS 341 America, has also observed that the bamboo and thatch roof Jesuitical Mission Church in the valleys of Equa torial America, with the adobe of the Andes and the grottoes of the Indian, each represent in appearance the same altar before which men and women of all lands and races and tongues become equal. Travellers say they never get anywhere that they may not see the emblem of the cross; even on top of the lonely Andes (the rustic crosses become a sign, like the guide posts, that point the weary traveller to the right road, or if, in the darkness of a tropical night, the sailor on tropical seas is awakened from a troubled dream of distress and discouragement, he can look up into the sky and there always find the beautiful con stellation of the Southern Cross, reclining to the horizon. As we approached these numerous rude crosses on the trails on top of the Andes, the Indians always uncov ered, if they wore hats ; if not, they knelt and crossed themselves, but never speaking. They call these high est points "calla-calla" meaning the place to be silent or to listen to the whisper of the winds, which is the voice of God. As there were nearly always fresh flowers deposited at the base of these rude crosses, I thought they marked the burial place of those who had fallen by the wayside in their journey. On mention ing this to the Indians, they replied significantly, ' ' The body of Christ is there." On a beautiful Sunday morning, Inez and Don Jose rode together, but on different mules. As we ap proached one of these rude crosses by the wayside, she reverently lifted her Panama, crossed herself, and with- 342 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW out indicating her wish, she slipped down from her seat on the mule, advanced to the shrine, and placed the bouquet of ferns, previously given her, at the base of the rustic cross. Kneeling, while her lips moved in silent prayer, the devotional attitude of the little "heathen" before the cross, forming a beautiful study for a picture. On rising, without deigning to utter a word, she looked searchingly into the pale face of her companion, who had also dismounted to assist her to remount. With a feeling of mortification, at not know ing exactly what to do, but as had been the custom, in respect to the opinion and belief of those with whom we had been associated, he took off his hat, and silently stood uncovered before the cross on which had been de posited the withering bouquet. This little remem brance, prompted by sincerity, was noticed by the other Indians, who no doubt believed the "padrone" as they called the pale-faced traveller from a far-off land had learned this same old story of the cross, and believed as they did, the simple act serving to establish a bond of recognition between the civilizations from the different ends of the earth, which was here met at its highest point in the Equator, or centre of the earth. One of the most beautiful orchids in coloring and form that I had ever seen in the Land of Orchids, which grow so extensively as parasites, and the mystery of whose existence as well as of life, is so typical of the birth of Christ, being nourished alone by the pure air of heaven, I found attached lovingly to a rude cross on a summit of the Andes. In relating this incident of the orchid clinging to the cross on the Andes, the following lines were written by THE CROSS ON THE ANDES 343 Bertha Gerneaux Woods, a young High school girl of Washington, and published at the time, being translated into the pure Castilian spoken and written at Lima. 344 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW THE CROSS ON THE ANDES. Not with folds of dusky crepe, Do the dusky fingers drape This remembrance of His death, But the airy orchids cling To the wood where earthly thing Cannot soil them with its breath. Did God's fingers place them there? Are they spirits of the air Staying for a little while, Clinging to His cross lest they, Left so near the earth-scenes, may Lose remembrance of His smile? Now and then from other lands Men with sunburned face and hands Turn into this mountain-spot, Thinking in the silence deep, What a pleasant place to sleep, Though from dreams they waken not. Heavy-hearted with life's loss, To the orchid-covered cross Comes a pilgrim wan with care; Pausing long enough to turn On the symbol eyes that yearn For the God-love shadowed there. Then his own heart breathes a prayer, As with reverential air Stands he with uncovered head. And his lips move, for the ear Of the Crucified can hear Faintest words that e'er were said. Eyes in dusky faces note Every movement of the throat; "See, the Padrone prays" — they say, And their hearts reach after him In the daylight turning dim, As he follows on his way. On the breast their hands are laid, And a simple gesture made — Of the sacred cross a sign. Then, with wistful, upturned eyes Looking to the southern skies, They can see the star-cros"* shine. THE ORCHID ON THE CROSS 345 The Cross on the Andes CHAPTER XXIII. FTER a never-to-be-forgotten expe rience of eight days and nights in crossing the Central Andes, we reached Chachapoyas, the half-way relay between the Upper Amazon and the Pacific. Chachapoyas is the cap ital of the Department of Alto or Upper Amazonas, as Moyabamba is of Bajo or Lower Amazonas. They have about the same population, being the headquarters of the Prefecto of Departments and the sub-Prefecto, with the usual quota of military and church dignitaries. In location Chachapoyas is the antipodes of Moya bamba, being situated apparently at the top of the mountain side, while Moyabamba rests in a valley sur rounded by mountains. The altitude of Chachapoyas is estimated to be 7,500 feet above the sea, but a person accustomed to the warm valleys of the Equator is apt to register it con siderably higher, especially if he arrives in a cold, drenching rain storm, as we did. When we reached the town, we were cold and drip ping wet, but with an indifference to appearances born of our really distressed condition, we paraded single file down the long, narrow street to the plaza or quar- tel, in which the principal house, that of the Prefect, is located. We were halted in the archway of the large courtyard 346 ARRIVAL AT CHACHAPOYAS 347 by an armed soldier. After sending our respects to the Prefect, the ridiculous-looking cavalcade of amusingly forlorn objects dismounted in the courtyard and were soon after introduced to the Prefect. We presented a sorry spectacle as we stood hats in hand, covered with dripping ponchos, shivering with cold, and with water streaming from our hair and faces, but we were warmly welcomed by the old Pre fect, his secretary and the sub-Prefect, who somehow had been advised of our intended passing, and had con siderately made preparation for our arrival. In these countries the traveller will find that his ap proach has been heralded days in advance, without any desire on his part, and even though he travels with Indians, those of the tribes ahead will know of his coming. I eagerly explained that the little Indian girl was the protege of my cook, en route to Lima with her grandmother and brother, but this only excited an assuring smile, which expressed indifference to cooks and Indian girls, but showed a great desire to be of service to me in any way whatever. Being conducted to a warm room, I was at once relieved of my wet habiliments, and making a hasty, but careful toilet, I re-appeared in a full black suit, with a white shirt, the quick change rather astonishing the waiting officials. The cook, Inez and the guide had been provided with quarters in a gallery room of the courtyard. After partaking of a good dinner of roast mutton and vegetables, I excused myself, desiring to obtain rest, expecting to occupy my old camp bed and blankets 348 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW in the gallery room -with the others of my party; but the old Prefect objected, and so courteously urged his invitation to take other and more comfortable quar ters, that I was reluctantly compelled to accept. Going first to the gallery room, I found that Inez and the cook had retired under the same blanket on the floor, the Napo guide having taken possession of my comfortable cot. He was immediately turned out, much to his disgust, and the shivering little girl was tucked into my oed and wrapped up in my warm blankets She was much impressed by the marked attention that had been shown to "Don Jose" by those great officials, and accepted with a feeling of humble grati tude, the little courtesies which she had sometimes laughingly rejected while on the trail. The following day the old Prefect personally con ducted us to spacious quarters where we were accom modated with housekeeping facilities, in the same style that had been provided for our comfort and conven ience at Moyabamba. The country about Chachapoyas is as different from Moyabamba in climate and productions as our North west is from the Southern States of Georgia and Florida. The only place in Amazonia in which wheat is grown is on the lower foothills adjacent to Chachapoyas. The protected valleys would furnish grazing lands suf ficient to supply all of Amazonia with beef and mutton the year around. From this point there is another trail, known as the Cahapanas (pronounced Cow-a-panas) leading directly INDIAN HEAD TROPHIES 349 to the head waters of the Maranon, just below the famous Pongo Mansieriche, which is a much shorter, but not so convenient and safe a route to navigation as that by which we had come via Moyabamba to the Huallagua or Yarrimaguas. The Cahapanas route offers the additional induce ment of the gold and silver mines that exist near the Pongo Mansieriche on the Santiago, which empties into the Maranon just below the Pongo Mansieriche; but these veritable gold washings, the existence of which is unquestioned, are located in a country occu pied by a tribe of Indians which are known throughout the entire region for their inveterate hostility, and this fact has prevented the development of the Pongo and Santiago gold regions. It is a well authenticated fact that though a number of expeditions have penetrated the Santiago country, all have ended disastrously in the murder or myster ious disappearance of some of the parties. The experience of those who have gone before (always in too small companies) has been that as long as three or four stood together they were safe from attack, but if any of their number wandered off alone, they never returned. This is the tribe of savages who occasionally practice cannibalism. It is well known that they adhere to the terrible custom of beheading, instead of scalping their victims. It has been an unpleasant experience of mine to have handled a number of these heads, which, they carry on their belts, and specimens of which may be seen in the Museum at Washington. The heads are specially prepared by being first sus- 350 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW pended by the hair over a pot of boiling water, the steam from which softens the skin. The bones of the skull are then carefully removed without breaking the skin. Into the cavity thus made sand and pebbles are tightly packed. These are allowed to dry, the head gradually shrinking until it becomes as small as that of a doll. It is remarkable how well preserved are the features of a shrunken image. It is said that these people readily recognize the com pressed features of their enemies or friends, and that they rather enjoy the continued association with de parted friends as we do looking at the pictures in our photograph albums. Quite good specimens of this outlandish custom may be obtained in the towns adjacent to the Maranon, at a reasonable price per head. It is said that the good prices paid per head became an inducement to the Indians to murder innocent victims in order to pro cure the money offered for the curios. The authori ties then prohibited the traffic. Naturally one would like to see the heads of this entire tribe on exhibition in the museums of the world. These Indians pretend to be friendly, but treacher ously murder those whom they find at their mercy. There is a tradition that in this they are encouraged by some of the descendents of the early Spanish set tlers, whose motive is to retain possession of the rich gold washings. It is also intimated that some missionaries are inter ested in holding this section as a source of revenue for their churches. Neither of these assertions, how ever, were sustained by investigation. By experience, GOLD MINES 351 it was clearly disproved by the good character and ex ample of two of the best men of that region, Dr. Alher- noz, the treasurer of the Department, who has spent a life-time in his efforts' to attract emigration to the Cahapanas region, and the Rev. Father John Visor- lot, a faithful missionary, who has lived a life of self- sacrificing devotion amongst these people. To my observation that I could not understand why a gentleman of his education could be content to live the terrible life among the Indians, he smilingly re plied, as he lifted the cross attached to a strap from his belt, "My son, if I can but present this crucifix to the eyes of a single dying Indian, I am compensated for my life's work." Dr. Alhernoz nas through the Peruvian Consul-Gen- eral at Southampton, Sr. H. Guillaume, F. R. G. S., published a carefully descriptive account of the Caha panas region, which may be obtained upon application to the Consul-General. Those who may desire full and reliable information may address Rev. Padre Visorlot, at Chachapoyas, Peru. It was my pleasure and privilege to have the most agreeable intercourse with both of these gentlemen while at Chachapoyas, and obtained their consent to this use of their names for reference. Padre Visorlot showed me some tubes or vials made from transparent intestines or the tips of goat's horns that were filled with gold washings. It was the custom of the Indians to wash the sand, and from the grains thus selected they paid the missionaries for their ser vices. They had no other use for the gold. Mining has never been attempted, but it is safe to 352 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW assume that where gold is found so largely in the sands, there is probably a better supply in the source in the mountains from which tthe sand is washed. Chachapoyas is a healthful place, if one may judge by the large number of ugly old men and women to be seen there. It differs from Moyabamba in respect to the character and appearance of its inhabitants. Here they wear shawls or ponchos instead of mantuas, and every man and woman is topped off with a turban made from a red bandana in place of a hat, giving them a brigandish appearance. The people are sullen and reserved as compared with the Moyabambians. The cold requires that they live more indoors, and consequently they are not as clean-looking and happy as those of the milder climate. Chachapoyas is another of the many interesting old towns of interior Peru, in which the archeological ex plorer may discover valuable matter buried in the walls and ruins of this almost inaccessible civilization of the Andes. There are numerous churches and con vents, and other old buildings in the place, the adobe or grayish mud walls of which have withstood the pelting storms of the centuries. There are also some unex plained ruins of buildings of the earlier civilization of the Inca, probably a thousand years before the Spanish conquest. Probably the reason for this architecture of the mud period being more enduring than that of our brick or granite may be attributed to the unchangeableness of the climate. There is little variation in temperature during the year, and consequently no ill effects from A FESTA IN CHACHAPOYAS 353 alternating heat and cold, nor from upheavals from freezing at night and thawing in the sun. Happening to be at Chachapoyas on a festal occasion which was being celebrated both in North and South America, it was my privilege to take part in the festivi ties of this comparatively old town, nestling amongst the Central Andes, almost in the heart of the continent. According to the custom of the countries where newspapers and bulletins are unknown, the Prefect had the day previous given the official notice by means of a squad of mounted soldiers parading the streets, heralded by a noisy bugler to attract and collect the crowds. The cavalcade halted on each corner, while an officer pompously read in a loud voice, somewhat like a town crier, the Prefecto 's explanations of the events, with instructions and commands to the people to make it an occasion of joy and congratulation, as well as of prayer and thanksgiving. Though holidays are quite common in that land, this was an extraordinary occasion, the promotion of which had probably emanated from Washington, and through the avenues of the Diplomatic channels reached this point from Lima. As in all such affairs, the ceremonies were opened with elaborate church services, which in this instance took the form of a mass for the repose of the soul of the discoverer of America. During the clanging of church bells, the popu lace began to assemble in the streets, with gen eral interchange of odd greetings and comments, and the imbibing of rum, which had the effect of increasing 354 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW the enthusiasm, and the regard for the repose of Colombo 's soul. As I was the only American who had ever visited the town I was expressly honored by formal calls from the most distinguished people of the place for the exchange of congratulations. The old Prefect, in the full uniform of a colonel of the Peruvian army, attended by his secretary attired in a black suit, and wearing a pair of gloves that encased his hands like boxing gloves, in making an early morning call, found me in my shirt sleeves. Quickly taking in the situation, I at once dressed prop erly and received from the Prefect his dignified and courteous greetings. In attempting to respond, my lack of Spanish* afforded apology for the want of proper words to "ex press the palpitations of the Americano's heart in adulation of the noble countrymen of Colombo, who now represented the dignity and honor of their country." As a further means of expressing our mutual admir ation and with a view of illustrating the advanced civilization of North America, an American cocktail was proposed. This was concocted from the pure rum of the country with Cascarilla bitters made from bark more bitter than quinine, flavored with a little sugar, and scented with a bit of the lime or lemon of that country. Into each glass of this cocktail I had learned to put the crushed red coffee berry, that in appearance resembled a wild cherry, but tasted like a bitter olive. These were used after swallowing the bitter dose as an antidote to relieve the choking effects of .the bitters, AN ANDES COCKTAIL 355 and was a counter-irritant like red pepper and garlic combined. It is the custom of the Spanish when drinking to gether, to lift the glass and utter the words, "Salute, senor!" — the manner of intonation of voice giving the words an expressive significance. During the numerous calls of the day, including those of the Padres and all the officials by whom Colombo was "saluted," the American cocktail became quite popular. A banquet had been arranged for the evening at the residence of Dr. Alhernoz, to which a few from the upper "400" had been invited, including the senoras and senoritas. The Americano was also among the in vited guests. Naturally entertaining some misgivings as to my ability to represent America in such exclusive society, my regrets were tendered, but my genial host, with the assistance of the Prefecto, prevailed upon me to be present, and I accepted on condition that the Ameri cano was to be entertained as a silent guest, who de sired by his mere presence to express his appreciation and good fellowship. The previous year, in going home from Brazil via France and England, my Consular dress suit, as being of no further use, had been packed away and shipped direct to America. On reaching Paris and London I was surprised to find that the people attended the famous Alhambra and Em pire theatres in evening dress. To avoid a similar occurrence on this second trip, the suit was put in my trunk, expecting that it miglnj 356 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW be useful at Lima, but without thought of appearing in evening dress en route. It came in very nicely, therefore, for this extraordinary occasion and added interest by the apparent absurdity of its appearance on top of the Andes. Dressing with great care, even to the white tie and white kid gloves — as though the affair were to be a most ceremonial one — with rather red face, flushed of course, from exposure, and not by reason of the many cocktails imbibed during the day, the "make-up" of the Americano was equal to that of a character from some comic opera. Of these conventionalities of civilization, Inez was a most curious and interested observer. She added a finishing touch to my toilet by pinning a small flower to the lapel of my coat. She, too, was putting on airs, for she was now wearing a pair of shoes and red stock ings, and a new mantua, which was much less becom ing to her than the poncho worn while travelling on the trail. As the banqtiet was early, the guests await ing me assembled in the doctor's ante-rooms looking as solemn and dignified as though attending a funeral. Though they were evidently sur prised at the appearance of the Americano rigged out in a costume they had only seen in pictures, yet they politely refrained from exhibiting any greater interest than if it were an every day occurrence in the little town of Chachapoyas. The Americano was seated at the right of the Pre fect, who occupied the head of the table, with Senora Alhernoz opposite; on either side of her were her A BANQUET 357 daughter and niece of about fifteen years, who was in troduced as Senorita Natita, a pet name, the diminu tive of Natividad. The Prefect whispered confidentially that this young lady represented the best and most exclusive of the Peruvian Spanish families. (All present being about 7,500 feet above the ordin ary world, it might altogether have been termed quite a "high" toned affair.) The menu, the best the country afforded, was con fined to native dishes, served with wine of Peru. It is a custom to quietly sip a toast at table with any one of the party you may desire. Senorita Natita, who was seated nearly oposite to me, quite bashfully avoided my efforts to catch her eye. This amused the other ladies and the Prefect, who finally prevailed upon her to drink silently with the Americano, and while doing so, her face became suffused with blushes as warm as the red wine she sipped. The usual round of speech-making followed, America being frequently complimented, to whieh acknowledg ment was made by a rising bow. Toward the close of the banquet, the guest of honor inconsiderately "put his foot into it" by attempting to compliment that part of the country as an interesting study, thoughtlessly observing that in the sense of looking backward it was a most attractive field for the visitor, because "it would show just about how the country was when Columbus discovered it. ' ' The laugh which followed this effort made me wish that one of their awful earthquakes might suddenly 358 THE LAND OF- TO-MORROW open and swallow that whole company, including myself. - CHAPTER XXIV. N addition to the rains, the delay at Chachapoyas was being made unbear able by the pests that infest the vicinity known as Guarapatas. These are small ticks or grey insects that are peculiar to the reddish, sandy soil found only in a narrow belt of country surrounding Chachapoyas. During the day they are inactive, and being nearly the color of the soil and quite small, are almost in visible, but microscopic examination will show them to be as numerous, apparently, as are the grains of sand. At night they get to the body, and for each insect reaching it, the sleeper finds in the morning two little red pin points like the marks of sharp teeth. The only protection is to sleep in hammocks or camp beds, so arranged that the blankets will not touch the soil, thus preventing the pests from reaching the sleeper. They are more numerous in the poorer class of houses with unswept earth floors. It is the custom to sleep on top of tables or benches, while in the Guar- apata district. This elevation from the floor does not, however, relieve the tourist with a sensitive cuticle from the more vicious attacks of the universally ab horred pulga, or Spanish flea, which abounds every where in Peru, west of Moyabamba. Because of there being no winters in this climate the insects increase rapidly, and the tourist naturally finds 359 360 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW that there presence in such large numbers is quite an obstacle to his enjoyment of life in these regions. Tem porary relief is obtained by starting forest or prairie fires, the preventive and remedy being to bathe in spirits, or the rum of cashasa, which is abundant and cheap. It is not advisable, however, to use camphor in the rum bath, an old woman's remedy recommended to me by the grandmother of Inez. The delay of the brother and grandmother of Inez in coming to meet her aroused considerable concern as to the welfare of Inez. It became evident from her flushed cheeks and suppressed cough, that she was marked as a victim of consumption, the prevailing malady, due entirely to exposure and lack of proper care. Because of indifferently exposing themselves, it is a wonder that any of the girls live to reach maturity. In an ordinary climate, the fatalities would have almost annihilated the sex in imagination and reality. I seemed to see the spiritual face of a dying girl appealing to me for protection and endeavored to pre vail upon her to return to Moyabamba before she grew worse. The cold rains and the unpleasant surroundings of Chachapoyas, as compared with the sunny valley of her home, aided in presenting the matter to her. It was further explained that the agreement was that she should go to Lima only in company with her grand mother. As she had not come, this would relieve me of the dreadful responsibility that had been thrust upon me. I could not take her to Lima, to be left there alone, without protection amongst a class worse than brutes. She might come later. INEZ RETURNS 361 During the kindly talks we had together she would cry just like a little child, but she was sensible enough to know that this was the proper course, and became reconciled to return. She seemed also to understand that it was getting late in the season and dangerous to expose herself to the further hardships of the severe trail beyond, before we could reach the Pacific. She had a great desire to see the Pacific, and when I talked of the huge ships, she would look into my face with the eager interest and curiosity of a child listening to a Mother Goose story. A convoy composed of a travelling government en gineer and a photographer and his wife, a stout Span ish woman, offered the desired escort and facilities for a safe journey back to Moyabamba. Inez was provided with all she could carry in the way of fancy dress stuffs, shoes, stockings, cheap jew els, etc., the possession of whieh would make her the envy of all the Moyabamba girls. In the company of a townsman of the escort, she smilingly came to my quarters to say "adios." Her appearance in the fancy poncho and hat so familiar to the early days of the trail, unnerved me, but after hesitating a moment, I observed, "Are you going, Inez?" Looking at me as though surprised at the question, she replied, "Como no, senor?" (or, why not?) adding, "You are going, Don Jose?" Turning to privately select a few coins for a parting gift, I heard the soft, sweet voice in tremulous tones, repeat in a sadly resproaehful manner, "Don Jose" as only a senorita can say "Don Ho-say." 362 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW (Sara Bernhardt in Camille, while separating from her lover, when reluctantly speaking the name "Andre," with a pathos none other can give, recalls Inez' last words, "Don Jose.") When I turned she had gone forever. Thus ends the true story of Inez, which has been related as representing a phase of life peculiar to the Land of To-Morrow. My own departure was hastened by an incautious breach of the proprieties with the old Prefect. Feeling that I might in some way be held responsible for the safe return of Inez, in case she should be taken ill on the way back or should be deserted by her escort, it occurred to me to have the Napo copy into Spanish a translation of a personal letter explaining the facts and my connection with the affair. The idea was to leave a record, whieh would, in the event of future complications — probably in my absence — relieve me of responsibilities and show that the grandmother, or guardian of the girl, had consented to this arrangement, but had failed to keep her part of the contract. In addressing this letter to the Prefect, I assumed it to be simply a personal matter, as between two gen tlemen. He, as well as the other officials, had known all about it in his own quarters, but the Prefect as a Spanish official of dignity and importance, was altogether an other and a superior personage to the Spanish gentle man. The trouble arose, not at all because of Inez, who was not even considered, but entirely on account of my PREFECT ON HIS DIGNITY 363 failure to separate the distinguished Prefect from the gentleman. The Napo's translation of my English in a delicate matter like this probably added to the trouble. He had mildly cautioned me against taking such action, but without a thought of any impropriety, I insisted upon the delivery of the letter. If a deliberate insult to his excellency had been attempted, the effect could not have been greater, my innocent note creating in the palacio as much constern ation as woiild a gunshot or a bombshell from the hands of an assassin. The town soon heard of it, and with a view of correct ing any false impression, I called upon the Prefect to explain that it was not an official, but a private note. He was severely on his dignity. He had been offended by even the mere mention of an ordinary girl. These were creatures who were, in his estimation, not thought worthy of any consideration. The trouble was further increased by the presence of a German tramp, who had been living in Peru for some years and who, it was understood, had lived in the United States, whence he had fled because of some criminal proceedings. The next day, after a letter of explanation to Dr. Alhernoz, I dressed in white trousers, big boots and hat, and mounting a mule, rode proudly out of the town of Guarapatas, but the old Prefect had made an international question out of it, by writing to his government at Lima, charging me with having insulted him, no mention being made of Inez. 364 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW There are no extensive valleys in the Department of Chachapoyas. The mountains are almost continuous, quite narrow defiles that look like ribbons or meadows of a lighter green color, lining the crevices between the high hills. My observations during several toilsome days' ride over this stretch of high' rolling land, led me to the conclusion that this part of Peru could not sustain a much greater population than that now so sparsely covering it. In descending the western slope, our view was ob structed by what appeared to be a fog in the valley beneath, but which in reality was a rain cloud. Hurry ing down from the cold winds, we were enveloped in a heavy mist, and for some distance rode in the clouds almost blindly, except for the path immediately in front, and down into a warm valley, in which the grass and trees were yet dripping and looking bright and green from the refreshing shower that had recently fallen. Without dismounting the horseman might gather numerous wild flowers from the banks and cliffs along which his path lay. It became my fancy to try to select no two alike. My pockets, my hat band, and even the saddle trimmings were decorated with these blossoms. It is one of the characteristics of the Indian char acter never to oppose a person of feeble mind. This fact accounts for the protection which is accorded naturalists and bug hunters, who fly about recklessly in search of rare specimens. The Indians noticing my craze for flowers, no doubt AN INCA BALSA 365 considered me of weak mind and were disposed to humor me, and even collected flowers for me. The day before we reached the balzas, or the old, old crossing or ferriage of the Maranon used by the Incas, we could catch glimpses from the immense mountain top, of the rushing river, now a mountain torrent. We were so far above, that the winding, tortuous descent of the barren mountain sides occupied the entire day. On the fourth day after leaving Chachapoyas we slept to the music of the rushing waters, which we knew flowed on and on until they reached the ocean at the mouth of the mighty river from which we started months ago, and were not yet able to cross on foot. Balzas is the Spanish for a raft used for carrying across the water. It is constructed of logs of the tacto, a wood as light as cork, and found in the adjacent forests. The logs are bound tightly to cross pieces of tough strips or saplings by withes of a fibre that is more flexible and quite as strong as telegraph wire, which they resemble in size. These rafts are of peculiar formation, being oblong rather than square, timbers being selected which give the flat raft the desirable bow and stern shape. In the centre a raised diaz or platform is constructed for the protection of goods and packages from the water. In the passage of rough rivers or in descending rapids the water frequently covers the logs. The Indians with poles or paddles stand knee-deep and work vigorously and are prepared to jump in the water to swim and tow or steer the raft around dangerous places. 366 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW There are no canoes used on this upper Amazon be cause of the dangerous rapids. Balzas are required for ferrying even over this pool, the only restful bit of water suitable for safe crossing that has been used in hundreds of years by Incas and their descendents. Just above, the river is lashed into an angry foam against rocky obstructions, and a mile below there is another equally dangerous cascade. The water runs so rapidly in the pool that it is necessary to start at the top on one side in order to land nearly a mile below on the other side. A single misstep would result in the stream carrying the helpless victims to the reverse of a quiet grave. The balza is on the Maranon, about 5,000 feet above the level of the ocean, and about 3,500 miles from the mouth of the Amazon, and yet another 1,000 miles from its source. While experiencing the usual delay in awaiting to be transported, I amused myself in shaping from a bit of cork wood, a model of a little ship, in the centre of which was inserted a mast and on the peak of this was fastened a miniature American flag. With a knife, I laboriously carved the name "Julietta," and over a bottle of wine spilt to the health of the baron 's daugh ter, the belle of Para, she was launched and floated on her tempestuous way to Para, loaded with love and ballasted with good wishes. At this point, a leaf is missing from my notebook, which was mailed to this lady, with a request that she should keep a lookout on the river in front of Para for this little ship, but it probably "passed in the A MISSING LEAF 367 night" and floated down into the broad ocean of oblivion. We succeeded in crossing safely, but enjoyed the usual morning "circus" with the recalcitrant mules, who were driven into the stream as if -for the purpose of drowning them. The stoning and shouts of the sav ages on the shore preventing their returning, they were compelled to swim to the other side or go over the rapids. On leaving here we got our last view of this source of the Amazon, which at this point reaches nearest to the Pacific. We made a zig-zig ascent of the mountains on the west side, over a precipitous trail like "cat steps" or a "mule's ladder," being nearly an entire day spent in sight of the balsa below us. The summits of these mountains are about 7,000 feet above the level of the sea. On the farther side the descent is scarcely less precipitous, to the settle ment of Calendin, where we rested a day in the hospit able home of a merchant to whom we had been en dorsed. The type of native hereabouts is of a different and somewhat improved appearance. The better class are more distinctly Spanish in their bearing, with less of the Indian in their blood. This was impressed upon us while seated in the house of our host, who made his appearance at the door, tall, straight, with a Span ish beard, sombrero in hand, and in a dignified and courteous manner introduced himself in these words : "To-mas Dias, at your service, senors." (His name 368 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW was Thomas Dias, the accent in Thomas falling upon the syllable "mas.") The day following we rode over another dangerous mountain, the trail leading us at last on to the famous plateau or high table land extending from Quito on the north to Cuzco on the south — thousands of miles of ele vated plain or pampas located between the coast range and the Central Andes, known as the "Land of the Incas. ' ' It is probably on these great plains or pampas that the early civilization of Incas existed perhaps during a thousand years prior to the conquest, of which numerous evidences of engineering in road building remains. CHAPTER XXV. »N the old town of Carjamarca, nestling in a secluded, green valley, and protected by the shadows of the towering Andes from the winds of the Pacific, is the centre of the wonderful plateau which extends from Quito, in Ecuador, to Cuzco, Peru, which was the scene of Pizarro 's treachery. We approach its ancient por tals with a feeling of reverence mingled with a sense of mortification lest we should meet, perhaps, some of the descendents of the Incas who were so shamefully treated by the conquerors in the name of Christianity. From this point to the end of our journey at Lima, the traveller may take for a guide book that beautifully romantic history of our countryman, " Prescott 's Con quest of Peru." A book might be written from the story of tradition as told the writer by descendents of the last of the Incas, and though it could not be compared with the work of our Prescott it would at least have the merit of being taken from real life on the ground. Prescott is recognized as the classical historian of the period, and his books are in all the libraries of the world, yet, without presuming to criticise, one may call attention to the admitted fact that it is largely collab orated from the annals of the early Spanish writers, but little credence being given to the interpretation by 369 370 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW the descendents of the last tribe of the Inca's dynasty, with whom they were at enmity. When one remembers that neither Prescott nor his collaborators had visited this country, and painfully recalls the sad fact that the great historian was practi cally a blind Milton, whose wonderful work was penned by amanuenses, wonder grows to actual admiration, as we look upon scenes made so vividly familiar by the pen of the blind artist, who pictures so exactly, even the rocky background of dreadful tragedies enacted on this ground. It is said of our country that it is too new; that it is a land without ruins, and that a land without ruins is a land without memories, and a land without memor ies is a land without a story. This cannot be said of Equatorial South America, or the Land of the Incas. On this plateau, and equi-distant from each other, are the towns of Quito, Cajamarca and Cuzco, with ruins so ancient that their origin can scarcely be traced. It is conceded that a civilization existed here more advanced than that of the conquerors. Gold and silver were mined, and beautiful ornaments and objects of art were manufactured from the same, five hundred years before Columbus discovered America, and it may be that the possession of these treasures was the incentive for Pizarro 's freebooting adventures in the name of Christianity. The traveller may ride for many days over roads parallel with irrigating channels cut in the rocky moun tain sides, by the Incas, that still carry streams of melted mountain snows to fertilize what would other- HOME OF THE LAST INCA DYNASTY 371 372 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW wise be a desert land; and these evidences of en gineering ability, compared with like construction in our days, indicate that there have been no modern works that haVe practically and successfully over come greater natural difficulties. These irrigating channels wind along for hundreds of miles, conveying large streams of water by means of gravity; from these main sources, lateral ditches are made, that conduct supplies to the numerous valleys at the base of the mountains. Some distance beyond the town one may halt and bathe in the famous banos or baths of hot water, known as King Atahualpa *s famous bathing resort. On the east side of the valley a large volume of hot water boils from the rocky base of the mountain, the ragged tops and sides of which looks as if it might be the crater of a volcano. The running water has, however, apparently washed the rocky bed smooth at the bottom of cascades and falls, while the steady drippings have worn pools in the immense rocks. It was in these solid stone bath tubs that the Inca prince and his wives were accustomed to bathe, but now they are free to all the people, and many enjoy them in the promiscuous manner peculiar to these easy going people. The plain through which the overflow of warm water runs in volume similar to a small creek, is bordered or fringed by a dense growth of tropical plants, propa gated by the warm moisture. Along the sides of these creeks, under the shade of NATURE'S LAUNDRY 373 this growth, is a natural steam laundry, for Cajamarca is filled with washerwomen. The water has some remarkable curative properties, and of itself, the spring is worthy of the visits of in valids, and would justify even the three or four days' trip from the Pacific on mules. We camped on this historic spot for an hour, while We bathed in the famous banos, that we might wash off the dust of travel before entering the sacred city. From the banos to the gates or edge of the village, the traveller from the east will ride over a "King's Causeway" or roadbed, across the plains, some three miles in extent, every stone of which was laid by the Incas, hundreds of years before America was discov ered. It is a line of stone block pavement, eight or ten feet in width, that resembles our modern Belgian block system, is as straight as if marked by an en gineer's compass, and is yet in excellent order. It will be remembered that this is the location where Prince Atahualpa was camped when Pizarro 's emis saries appeared on horse, intending to inveigle him into their trap. The Incas advanced to their unhappy fate over this road of their own building, wliich still remains as a monument of Pizarro 's perfidy and of Inca civilization. On either side are large plains or pampas, on which many thousands of cattle peacefully grazed in security, fenced in from the road by tall hedges of ever-bloom ing roses. For the first time in many months, the traveller in crossing the continent realizes that he is again ap proaching civilization. The tranquil surroundings of 374 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW the town ahead, with its church spires and bells and many other- indications, serve to create a feeling of relief that the journey is at an end. The architecture of Cajamarca is quite distinct from that of any other of the Peruvian settlements. The houses being constructed of stone blocks, it might be called a stone town, as distinguished from the mud building of Chachapoyas, and the bamboo and thatch dwellings of Moyabamba. The style of the architecture is superior to that seen elsewhere in Peru, not excepting Lima, which it ante dates centuries, as an Inca city. Around the large Plaza in the centre, are grouped the usual churches and government buildings, and a few large shops ; and on the spot where it is supposed that Atahaualpa was murdered, quite an artistic foun tain plays constantly. On the south side, the celebrated Church of San Francisco, a beautiful, large stone structure, presents an imposing appearance from its location in a tropical garden. It is referred to by Prescott. On the opposite side the Cathedral, like an immense pile of stone, stands with a massive front, as of a wall carved out of a rocky precipice. It has an arched roof and ceiling of solid blocks of stone, lined with gold, and is more modern, but not so graceful and impressive a structure as the old church of San Francisco. A study of the architecture of this old town would afford some interesting developments for the artist. Not only the churches, but the residences are taste fully relieved by no end of odd bits in the way of ANCIENT STONE ARCHITECTURE 375 recessed windows, balconies and other breaks that relieve the appearance of the heavy walls. The town is located immediately at the foot of the range of the most westerly Andes that rise almost per pendicularly behind it. The altitude is estimated at 9,000 feet, but because of its proximity to the coast and protection by the moun tains, it appears to be even warmer and equable in climate than Chachapoyas, which is 2,000 feet lower, but so situated as to get the force of the winds. The streets are all paved with block stone, and the pavements laid with slabs. Running water from the mountains is conducted in gutters or ditches through all the streets and serves for the system of surface sewerage. Carjamarea is a most important business location, being the centre of the rich mining district of this part of Peru. It is also the headquarters for the church. Peruvians say that the population of Cajamarca is made up of padres and sisters, with their innumerable churches and convents. Though it is the head of a department with a Prefect or Governor, and also a sub-Prefect and a military organization, it is conceded that the bishop rules. The populace are so fanatical, that it is said (as a hint to be cautious) that if a priest should point his finger at a stranger, intimating that he was a heretic and an enemy of the church, he Would be found dead not very long afterward. It was observed that the people walking about the streets stopped suddenly when the church bell rang, 376 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW and with uncovered heads, prayed wherever they hap pened to be. An odd funeral cortege passed, in which the body was being borne to the church in a bed or crib, followed by the lone widow on a donkey, and with a mob bringing up the rear. At Chachapoyas attention was attracted by the ring ing of a bell, reminding one of the calling together of a crowd for an auction sale, or for the finding of a lost child. The bell-ringer proved to be a bareheaded native, following a robed priest, who was reading an open book as he walked along the street. Preceding him were two boys with lighted candles. As the sun was shining brightly, I innocently inquired what the cere mony meant, and was informed that the priest was going to attend a dying person. He was going at what I considered a very leisurely pace. Throughout Peru, bell-ringing seems to be as much an integral part of church worship as the firing of rockets in Brazil. In the more remote regions they are sometimes short of bell-ringers, as related by a Spanish merchant. The Bishop of Chachapoyas had rewarded a faithful body servant by making a priest out of him. In per forming the service in a missionary capacity, not hav ing any properly trained altar boys to ring the be!l at the proper moment, this ingenius padre hit upon the expedient of attaching the bell to his own foot. As he slowly turned and presented the host, he simply vio lently kicked the foot to which the bell was attached, ,&.. -~^awyJ-T^~", '¦ The Oldest Cathedral of South America Facing Page 376 THE CHURCH IN CAJAMARCA 377 causing it to jingle, the people in front bowing in reverence at each kick. Perhaps this story may not be believed in America, but I believe it to be true, although I didn't hear the bell myself. The Napo guide, like everyone else, was a Catholic, but one who hated the priests with an intensity that could not be understood, because, he said, they ruled his country— Ecuador. In one of the villages, one evening we attended a ser vice where the bamboo church was beautifully illumi nated with innumerable candles, composed of wax made by wild bees in the forest. I stood in the rear of the church, while the choir, composed of a couple of violins and mandolins were rendering in a very fair style some of the dreamy music of II Trovatore. Suddenly turning in the dim light to retire quietly, I stumbled over the kneeling form of the Napo, who was just behind me. In the confusion I managed to escape, followed by the laugh ing idiot, who observed in apology, "Senor, I was praying like hell when you jumped on me." In using this language he had no idea of its gro- tesqueness or impropriety. It was his simple way of desiring to emphasize in English the sincerity of the devotion I had fallen upon. It was my usual good fortune to have encountered many congenial people at Cajamarca, amongst whom was Mr. Oscar Kuntze, a prominent English-speaking mer chant, and the German Consul for that part of Peru, an importer of goods and the largest trader of the interior, to whom T presented a letter of endorsement. 378 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW The accounts of his extensive dealings had suggested the usual large, jolly-faced German, somewhat past middle life, a business man who would probably not hesitate to fire personal questions at a traveller. On the journey from the balza, our fellow tourist was a young Peruviana named Antonio, a handsome senor of about thirty-five years of age, who was travelling to Lima to look after his appointment as sub-Prefect for that town. We had taken lodgings together at the house in the town designated for that purpose, expecting to get our meals at the Chinese fonda, or restaurant. The Chinese element was much in evidence here, as cooks, servants, laborers and merchants, and, although they are not desired by the Catholic officials, they are there to stay, and it is probable that many will go on to the interior. In company with my* friend, Antonio, we called on Consul Kuntze, and found his house to be one of the finest residences in the city. The entrance to a large court ornamented with grow ing plants almost shielding a playing fountain, was barred by a double gateway that extended across a passage wide enough to admit a wagon. As there was no outside entrance, we attracted the attention of a white woman, of a blonde, German type, by peering through the bars, but, instead of opening the gate, she laughingly ran into the house as if to avoid the rough-looking strangers. In another moment, a young lady, also a blonde, but with delicate figure and refined bearing, came smilingly to the gate, saying in broken English : GERMAN CONSUL AND FAMILY 379 "We no speak English." "Why," I retorted quickly, "you do speak elegant English." We then introduced ourselves and ex pressed a desire to see Consul Kuntze. "He is ill, and asleep just now; you come in and wait one moment." Not desiring to interrupt the siesta, we excused our selves, with the words, "Please tell your father that we will call this evening." "My father!" she said laughingly, "you mean my husband." She was the pretty wife of the old German pictured in mental photograph and who materialized in another hour as a handsome gentleman of thirty or thirty-five who graciously introduced himself as Mr. Kuntze. We were not permitted to dine at the fonda again, the Consul urged us to take our meals with him, which invitation we gladly accepted. The evening German dinners, served with a style and taste not excelled anywhere in that land, was one of the most enjoyable experiences of the trip. Mrs. Kuntze was one of those charming little women who know how to make a home agreeable in distant lands. With unlimited wealth and resources, she was able to gratify the tastes of her early education, and had brought from Germany nearly all the articles of furniture that so tastefully adorned her far-away home. She had two sweet little children, white headed, clear complexioned girls of five and seven years, who spoke German and Spanish, but could only smile in English. In my embarrassment on entering the dining-room, 380 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW the name of the beautiful young lady to whom we were presented, was not understood. She was of medium height, quite slender in figure, with the most fascinating eyes I had ever seen. Her hair being quite light in color, it was assumed that she was the sister of our German hostess. She talked sweetly in Spanish to my companion, An tonio, who sat on one side of her, while Mr. Kuntze was on the other. It was intimated to the ho'stess, in sotto voce, that she shouldn't have placed that pretty girl between two old married men. The ladies caught my meaning and the two laughed heartily, Mrs. Kuntze remarking that next time she should be seated beside a young man. There was at dinner Mr. Felix Leon, a typical Span ish gentleman of elegant bearing, who had been liber ally educated abroad, having spent seventeen years in a business house in England. He had recently re turned, as the manager of Mr. Kuntze 's extensive mer cantile interests. After the guests had retired, some inquiries about Mrs. Kuntze 's sisters developed the fact that the lady whose name I did not know, was the sister of the Spanish gentleman, Mr. Leon. He laughingly observed that although his father and mother were decidedly of the Spanish type, as were the other brothers and sis ters, Senorita Marie Leon, a native of Pana, one of the northern districts of Peru, was a most marked excep tion to the rule. Mr. Kuntze had arranged a concert for the evening, in which, according to the German custom, all took part, even the little girls singing a pretty duet. There AN ENJOYABLE MUSICAL EVENT 381 was among the guests a young German accountant, who assisted in entertaining us. To my utter astonishment, Miss Marie Leon rendered choice selections from the operas in a style that I have never heard excelled by non-professionals in any parlor in our land. She was indeed a phenomenal per former in execution and expression. She was also a wonderful beauty. The remarkable feature about this entertainment was the piano, which was the only one in the town. This anomaly will be understood, when it is remembered that there were no railways nor boats, and not even an approach to a wagon or vehicle in all that country. The towering Andes that separated the town from the farther civilization of the coast, though only from three to five days distant, formed a barrier that could only be surmounted or overcome by mules. No one mule had ever yet been trained to carry a piano over the mountains, and no two had ever been known to work together harmoniously on a narrow trail. The piano, weighing considerably over 1,500 pounds, was carried on the shoulders of Indians during the several days necessary to foot it over the Andes. This made the performance of II Trovatore and numerous popular airs all the more interesting, espec ially to a lonely traveller, whose soul is easily moved by sweet songs, and this evening of social delights seemed to bring me that much nearer home. My enjoyment of the music seemed to be appreciated by the performer who was pleased to continue and often repeat favorites for the stranger who stood by her side, while the rest of the company chatted. 382 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Mr. Ostendorf, the young German, and Miss Leon played duets in a striking manner. After this, Mrs. Kuntze, with great tact brought the lady and seated her on the sofa next to me, and charmingly managed to in terpret for us, to her own great amusement. Miss Leon insisted that she must become a Sister of Charity or Mercy, and enter a convent, to whieh we protested, when the Consul slyly observed in low English, "She doesn't mean anything of the sort. She wants to marry some one who will take her to see the world outside, which is the dream of her life." It was not supposed that any of these people would have heard of the episode at Moyabamba, though Senor Antonio declared that everybody along the road had done so, and that the people did not know whether to laugh most at me for my ridiculous mistake of explain ing to the old Prefect, or at him for his absurd dignity ; but it was altogether too good a joke to remain a secret. In the conversation we avoided any reference to Moy abamba and discreetly attempted to make Miss Leon be lieve that like herself, we were good Catholics and that if she went into a convent we would follow to a mon astery. With an incredulous smile, she asked the pointed question, "Do you go to confession?" looking signifi cantly at Mrs. Kuntze, while everybody laughed immod erately. Pretending that it was at my answer "that I did not, because I hadn't time," Mr. Kuntze observed, "It would take too much of your time. I'm afraid you are as good a Catholic as I am a Protestant." After the pleasant party separated, Senor Leon THE INCA RUINS 383 walked home with us, and he told a story apropos of confessions on the Andes. Senor Felix Leon, who as a student, was quite familiar with all the points of interest in Cajamarca, kindly volunteered to act as our guide through this historic city. It was a privilege to stand in what is known as the room of the palace of Atahualpa, which is made for ever memorable by the well authenticated story of its being half filled with gold ornaments and massive plate. The point in the wall reached by the tip of Pizarro 's sword, with its dimensions of 15 by 18 or 20 feet, would seem to the visitor of present Peru to have been im probable. Yet there is no one feature of the remark able story of the conquest more clearly attested than this. It has been shown from numerous sources that the distribution of the booty would justify the proba bility of the room being so filled with gold and silver articles. The building is almost a ruin. It has withstood the ravages of centuries of storm, but no care was taken of it, and it suffered from worse than neglect, because it stood in the way of some modern church improve ments, being located in an abandoned court, or old garden near the famous Francisco Church. A rude stone wall almost conceals it from the narrow street. The foundation rests upon a rock, the walls being laid in quite heavy oblong blocks of dressed stone, so closely joined that a knife-blade will scarcely enter the cracks, There has been an addition to its original 384 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW height, the marks of which can clearly be discerned by the difference in the masonry. Much of interest may be gathered by a visit to Caja marca that may be of greater historic value to Amer icans than may be found by tours to the old world. Many curious questions are pressed upon the mind of the traveller in his crude investigations hereabouts. It will be remembered that the origin of the Inca dynasty though shrouded in mystery, is claimed to be similar to that of Adam and Eve. Their tradition say that the first Incas were the son and daughter of the Sun God, and the Moon, his wife. In the emblems of these children of the Sun, gold rep resents the Father, or the sun, and the silver that of the Mother, or moon. The two original children of the sun were brother and sister, from the marrying of whom sprang the Inca dynasty, which for centuries so wisely and wonderfully ruled the hordes of savages, whom they transformed from almost inhuman animals or cannibals to become the useful agriculturalists and miners who were developing this land from Cuzco to Quito, when they were dispersed by Pizarro 's marauders. Whatever may be the theories, it is to be noted that since this conquest, but little advance has been made by the conqueror in the way of improvement of the country since it was wrested from the Incas; and not withstanding the absurdities of the Inca views of God and a hereafter, it must be conceded that in their selec tion of the sun as an idol of worship, they closely approached what some scientists of our electric age are attempting to establish, that the sun is the source MISSIONARY DISCUSSION 385 of all life, that it is heat, and that heat is electricity, and that electricity is life itself. And the rubber of the forests in the insulation, represents in its elasticity the life principle more nearly than any known sub stance. It is possible that the currents of the kingly Amazon rising in these mountains on the Equator, and at this highest part of the earth, may have unconsciously carried the germs of animal as well as vegetable life to the African currents, which distributed them to our side of the world by the Gulf Stream. But speculation on these questions is not part of a narrative of actual observations. In discussing the American missionary question with an intelligent Don who was rather getting the best of the argument, as he was able to show that their civilization was not improved by contact with ours, I fell back as a defense on the familiar quotation from the Scripture, which I thought would be such a crushing rejoinder that I uttered it with emphasis: "Go ye into all the world and preach the Gospel to every creature." I was rather brought to my feet by the neat reply: "Si, senor," (yes, sir) "that is true, but that command did not come from America. ' ' One is apt to realize, after a residence in these lands, that some religious and other conditions adapted to our country are not always applicable to latitude 0. After adios to kind friends and a last drink of the waters that flow into the Land of To-Morrow, we 386 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW begin the ascent of this, the coast, and last range of the Andes. The trail does not follow the route over which Pizarro led or rode the first horses into the Land of the Incas. One who has labored for days up the stiff grade and along the narrow and dangerous caminos on this well- beaten path, wonders how it was possible for Pizarro and his soldiers to have found even a foot-hold on the then unknown steeps and valleys, and becomes lost in admiration of the daring and persistence of, these men and surprised at the indifference of the Inca chiefs in not offering the resistance afforded by the natural barriers. While slowly riding up the long trail we were nearly the entire, day in sight of the beautiful valley and city, the route following the winding course of those wonderful conduits or irrigating ditches built by the Incas (and still in use by the people) occasionally crossing suspension or hanging bridges made from fibre, or following causeways over dangerous passes, built perhaps a thousand years ago, we at last reach the top or divide, which is indicated by the absence of moisture or vegetation, while its desolate, dreary sur roundings and the cold Winds from the Pacific add to our sadness at this farewell to the Land of To-Morrow. After one longing look backward, we turn our horses' heads toward the setting sun and hasten down the western slope. We followed the trails down into the valley, along the. sunken or lost river bed, upon which the American engineer, Meigs, actually constructed and operated for a brief time, a railway,, being entirely OVER THE GREAT DIVIDE 387 unlike that of the Oroyo which ascends or winds up mountain sides. This lost river that had not shown a drop of water over its deserted bed during the life of the oldest inhabitant, seemed to resent the laying of rails on its breast. And one or two warm days melted the snows of the Andes, causing the waters to roll along in great volumes, completely cleaning it of railroad, as did the Conemaugh at the time of the Johnstown flood. It is amusing to discover at different points in the valley fine looking stations that were sent out in sec tions, which being erected on higher ground, were not washed away, but are now wholly isolated, as there is not even, the appearance of a railway. The camino leads through narrow valleys, often mere shelves cut in the sides of the peaks of the barren Andes. On the western slope there is no vegetation on the mountain sides. This is found only down in the valleys where there is moisture and protection from the high winds that blow through the narrow passes fiercely and without a moment's cessation, making it not only uncomfortable to the rider, but adding to the difficulties and dangers of both rider and mule, the winds sometimes almost lifting one from the saddle. At the few settlements the accommodations for the traveller are provided by the Chinese "f ondas" instead of by the hospitable don. The Chinest are here in great numbers. The remains of the railway, over which trains are run three times a week, extend a few miles out from the coast, but as we were tired and in a hurry, we rode our horses all the way. After three days we were glad- 388 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW dened by a sight of the Pacific. In an exuberance of gratitude, we rode to the very edge of the breaking waves on the broad beach at the port of Paeaswayo. When we reached the Pacific or cable station, I received the first news from home in eleven months. As stated in the introductory, this trip had been undertaken with the expectation that my friend, Mr. Blaine, would soon receive the nomination, and I hoped if he became President, to be suitably rewarded by an appointment commensurate with the experiences which I had accumulated. The first intelligence, however, was not quite the welcome news I had expected. In the interim, while I was in the interior, Mr. Blaine had died, Mr. Cleve land was again President, and I was out of a job (my principals having consolidated with the Rubber Trust) and more than' 5,000 miles from home, ragged and without money. Remembering the kindly good-bye words of my old associate, Mr. Carnegie, who had kindly said, "Draw on me if you get strapped down there," I made the draft on New York through the Consul at Callao, which was soon after returned with the endorsement that Mr. Carnegie was in Scotland. I I ' CHAPTER XXVI. S we sailed down the broad waters of the Pacific we had leisure for reflection and opportunity for comparison. In almost every particular the Pacific coast of Peru is the antipodes of the Atlantic coast of Brazil. On the morning, or sunrise side of Amazonia, the dark background of rich soil on the level surface is covered with a velvety green and yellow carpet, which is relieved by figures repre senting flowers dazzingly beautiful in color and of un tiring irregularity in pattern and kept perennially bright by the showers that refresh them daily. On the sunset side of the Andes, the Pacific coast for thousands of miles is a barren, desolate stretch of mountains of sand, except for the occasional patches of green in some protected valleys which are watered by irrigation, the eye of the weary traveller sees nothing upon which to rest its gaze, but wastes of sand hills on one side, the lonely Pacific ocean on the other, and overhead the blue sky, unrelieved by even a floating cloud. While it rains every day on the Atlantic coast, it has never been known to rain on this part of the Pacific coast. The cold, harsh winds that are never weary, raise only clouds of sand, pr in some seasons heavy fogs are brought from over the water. On the Atlantic side the evening winds bring the rains. This difference is 389 390 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW more noticeable to the wanderer who has come through the beautiful interior of the continent than to the tourist who sailed along the coast. After crossing the great divide, which is on the summit of the Coast range of the Andes, from whence the water on one side goes to the Atlantic through thou-' sands of miles of beautiful Amazonia, and on the other dribbles into the Pacific in two or three days, over rocky, sandy beds so thirsty that they almost swallow , the entire stream. During the last three days down the westerly slopes the trail for the greater part of the way followed the dry beds of the streams through the valley, or chiseled in the edges of rugged, perpendicular cliffs, along barren, rocky precipices. In appearance the varied terra-cotta colorings of the bare formation that is ever before the gaze, one is reminded of the paintings of the Yosemite and Yellow stone, to be seen in the Senate lobby of the Capitol Building at Washington. As compared with the fresh green of the Eastern and Central Andes, this range may be described as a chaos of blasted landscape — the mouth of hell instead of an Eden. As we passed through them the midday sun from behind veils of white clouds sent its beaming rays upon our unprotected heads, while our progress was impeded by the winds of the Pacific. The peaks and crags, covered only with the drop- ings of blood-colored earth, as from the mouth of a volcano, were so high, that, riding along, one could scarcely see their tops without straining the head back THE PACIFIC RANGE OF ANDES 391 oax za O<2Haw f> > 3 392 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW and removing the cap or visor, while just beneath were the quebrados or terrible crevices into whose depths the distance was, apparently, as great as that to the mountaintops. The desolate solitude of these mountain tops was invaded only by the flight and by the ugly cries of the lonely condor, the debased eagle of the Andes. These immense birds which resemble in appearance our bronze barnyard turkeys, are not to be admired except at a distance, where they gracefully soar over and above the highest peaks. While they are quite large, and it is understood they can take a sheep in their talons, to slaughter it by dropping on the rocks below, and a flock of two or more are said to attack living cattle, yet they are not so immense as many of those in Africa, which, according to some writers, are able to destroy wild animals. It is an almost overlooked feature of our physical geographies that, excepting the Columbia, no naviga ble rivers enter the Pacific, and scarcely any large streams, and nothing to be compared to the Amazon, Orinoco and La Platte of the Southern Atlantic, and the Mississippi, Potomac, Delaware, Hudson and St. Lawrence of our continent. While sailing along the Pacific coast to Callao, the landing point to Lima, one realizes that the end is reached ; that there is no more beyond ; and though the Pacific leads to far-away China and the Indies, it ap pears even easier to reach those countries by way of the Atlantic to Europe. The efforts of these people have always been directed to the quickest route east by the railway over the ACROSS THE CONTINENT 393 Andes, through Chili to the Platte in Argentine, or through the Straits of Magellan or via the Isthmus of Panama. This journey has served to demonstrate that a more desirable route, leading through the richest section of the continent, would be through the completion of the shorter Oroyo railroad from Lima over the first Andes to the head of navigation on the Ucayali branch of the Amazon, a matter of less than one hundred miles, which would open the doors to the wonderful Land of To- Morrow. Officials of Peru, or the greater portion of its more advanced population living on the Pacific, has vainly attempted to bring the trade of Amazonia westward over the Andes to enrich their own Pacific ports by a switch back railway over the Andes that can only be available for light traffic or passenger travel because of the enormous expense of operating a line of such heavy grades. Extensive enterprise and trade will follow transpor tation facilities which seek the natural outlets down stream from Amazonia to the markets of the world, via the navigable Amazon to the ocean currents. The once fabulous mines of the Pacific Andes, that have almost supplied the world with its silver, are be coming exhausted. While there undoubtedly remains great deposits in these Andes, the workings have be come almost impracticable because of the difficulties caused by the increase of the water, of whieh there seems to be no end to the supply, whieh is apparently as inexhaustible as are the clouds themselves, perhaps because the source is in the eternal snows of the moun- 394 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW tain tops, which melting, find their way to the open ings beneath. It would be like pumping the clouds, to expect to exhaust this source. Pumping engines are scarcely practical in keeping down the levels, because of the scarcity of fuel, most of which comes from Eng land, and, by reason of additional inaccessibility on the mountains of the interior, transportation is expen sive. Natural drainage is not practical. Therefore the future of pobre Peru is not in the wealth of her mines, but in that of her unlimited expanse of forests in Ama zonia, where the gold grows on the trees in the form of rubber and valuable products for the materia medica, like the Peruvian bark that furnishes the world with its quinine, and are now blossoming with other reme dies equally as wonderful, which are awaiting the hand of the harvester. Lima, the oldest city of South America, founded by Pizarro, and at one time the capital of all Spanish America, is beautifully located in the sacred valley of the Rimac, near the base of the mountain peak of the same name, some seven miles from the coast. Lima in some respects resembles Para, but in most particulars the difference is as widely marked as are the distances, climate and situation. Both may be compared to suburban or outlying city districts of Paris. One is impressed with the idea that in both of these South American towns, an effort is made by the citizens to imitate or follow the example of Parisian life — which is not mentioned to their discredit — as Paris fashions and follies tend rather to elevate or give tone to their civilization. The population of each is approximately 100,000. LIMA COMPARED WITH PARA 395 The language of one is Spanish, and the other Por tuguese. In race and other conditions they are antagonistic, but fortunately the difference between the two sections is so great and insurmountable that they do not clash. Lima being the capital city of the Republic and the seat of the oldest civilization of South America, occu pies a much higher position in social and intellectual rank than Para, which is a commercial city of an out lying province belonging to another Republic, whose capital is at Rio de Janeiro, three thou sand miles distant; which, is in a diplomatic or international social sense, quite an important distinc tion. The principal governments of the world have representatives at Lima, but only a few Consuls are at Para. In addition to the Ministers Plenipotentiary at Lima, there are numerous Consuls who live there, in preference to Callao, which is the seaport, five or six miles distant. In appearance the architecture of Lima is superior to that of Para, as also the street plans, etc. The Legations of Great Britain and France occupy elegant and commodious buildings on the principal streets. The Spanish Minister, with his retinue, is located in a large, low but massive looking building surrounding a court, reminding one of a Spanish castle. The coat of arms of the different nations is usually emblazoned in a keystone of the arch over the entrance to the court, or patio, every legation, or consulate, having a flagstaff to which its colors are kept flying, giving part of the city a rather gala appearance. 396 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW The Legation of the United States was found after considerable inquiry and search, occupying the interior rooms in an upper gallery of a court on the Calle Bode- gone. The street front was used as one of the numerous cheap shops, while below the Legation office the noisy presses of a printing establishment rumbled constantly. It was altogether the shabbiest, cheapest looking Lega tion in Lima, some of the small Republics of South America making a more imposing appearance. This may not be considered a matter of any im portance at home, but in the appearance as well as in the character of the individuals representing our great nation, as a matter of diplomatic tact, aside from any display of respectability, such exhibitions of economy on the part of our representatives should be prohibited by act of Congress. The Minister then in charge was known to the for eign colony in Lima as the "Man from Oshkosh," and at home as the editor of a nonpareil newspaper in a small pica town, at one time of service to a wealthy Western Senator, who had gained his knowledge of diplomacy and stateseraft as his clerk to a Senate com mittee, using his salary to sustain his paper in the Senator's interest. On a visit to pay my respects to the Minister a lady answered the door bell, and ushered me into an atmosphere of dead dinner. The Minister in his lega tion office, was in his shirt sleeves, vigorously punch ing holes in his English editorials on a typewriting machine. Like a reporter, he was curious to know my business in Lima. AMERICAN LEGATION IN LIMA 397 The customs of those people are exacting, and if we should follow the example of doing in Rome as the Romans do, it would be well to begin at the top and send representative men who can properly represent America. If we cannot afford to do this in a becoming manner, it would be greater economy, and more to our ; credit, not to send Ministers out at all. This American Minister was received by the Presi dent of Peru in a red coach drawn by four black horses in gorgeous trappings, with liveried attendants, as was the custom, sent to his quarters to convey him to and from the palace in this well-known carriage of state. The Minister subsequently made his official appear ance in the tram cars. An official making a formal call invariably rides in a carriage. They look at these things differently in those countries. The churches in Lima are the principal buildings. In the usual custom, the Cathedral, which is the oldest church in America, with the bishop's palace adjoin ing, occupies one entire side of the large plaza. Letters of introduction to the Lima officials secured agreeable audiences with the President and other prom inent officers, to whom respects were duly paid; also to General Caceres, who accorded pleasant interviews relating to Amazonia. Another distinguished person who claimed our atten tion was General Francisco Pizarro. To be sure, he ' has been dead some hundreds of years, but he isn't ; buried yet. The body of Pizarro, well preserved in a glass case, is deposited in one of the several dark chapels of the 398 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW great Cathedral. The attendant monk, who guides to the place of the hero's repose in a dim recess, abruptly strikes a noisy match to enable us to see, the sudden explosion and flash of light might well make one think that the old freebooter had come to life, and struck the monk in the face, making the sparks fly. The attendant considerately held the match on the other side of the glass case, so that the happy, restful expression of Pizarro 's countenance might better be seen. It was a weird moment, this looking into the face of the man who, when living, had actually performed those wonderful feats under the greatest difficulties. Yet, there was a sensation of thankfulness that he was dead. The mummy, is, of course, black, and represents a very tall, powerful frame. It is said that the first case in which Pizarro 's remains reposed for so long under the great altar, was so short that his head had to be cut off and placed in his own arms for keeping, but they have since "put a head" on Pizarro. On the other side of the plaza are the government buildings and the military quarters. The other two sides of the square are occupied by blocks of shops on the ground floor, the upper floors being used as the quarters and hotel of the municipal or city officers. The walk under the large portico roof that extends to the street, called the portal, is the fashionable, loafing place for the young men who ogle the shopping senoritas. The bricks composing some of the pavements of these principal streets of Lima, are of fancy tile, such as we NEVER RAINS IN LIMA 399 use for interior hall flooring. As there are no rains or severe changes in the temperature, these are adapted to this out of door use. Two, and sometimes three, of the military bands play alternately the same evenings of the week. This arrangement serves to keep up a continuous outpour of music, unrelieved by intervals for rest, as where only one band plays. On these occasions the populace in large numbers promenades in groups over the the broad walks of the beautiful square. Sometimes when the band happens to be playing even such charmingly wicked airs as Juanita La Cos- tureza, from the Gran Via, when suddenly a bugle sounds in the distance and the musicians at a sign from their leader, without taking the instruments from their lips, change the tune to a most dismal howl of a Miserere. As soon as the bishop with his emblems pass out of sight the lively air of Juanita La Costureza is resumed. It is only the Spanish musicians who can render properly the airs peculiarly adapted to them and their country, such as the Estudiantiana and the Esmeralda, and Sobra las Olas. The churches of Lima are numerous and imposing in appearance. It seemed as if there was. one on every corner, and certainly one in every block. It is said that the churches and convents, with the school property, occupied more ground than the business houses. It is also explained that thirty per cent, of the entire revenues of the country go to the churches, the numer ous clergy being paid their salaries by the government. 400 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW If one may judge by the patronage of the masses in attendance the churches do a thriving business. They are open at all hours, not only on Sundays, but on every other day. The bells begin ringing for early mass at daylight and keep ringing at intervals until bedtime. The majority of the attendants seemed to be the senoras and senoritas and their servants. Foreign critics say that these go to the churches to meet their admirers and lovers, but the same might be ungallantly charged of our own ladies. The custom of the country prohibits ladies from walking with gentlemen on the street, or elsewhere, unattended by the family. It is jprobable, therefore, that the only opportunity the dear girls have of seeing their admirers is in this way. There are no seats in any of the churches, everybody kneeling on the stone floors, or on rugs, or using the praying chairs that the servants of the better class always bring to church with them. The young ladies usually carry their own bright colored kneeling rugs. Fleas, or pulgas, are very numerous in Lima, and no where are they more active than on the floors of the churches, a circumstance that is apt to interfere with one's devotion and supplies numerous excuses for not attending. The charming little city is famous the world over for the beauty of its women. They are not only pretty, they are all beautiful and have sweet voices. In Lima, the ugly girl is the exception. For church, all dress alike, with black mantillas thrown over their heads. A bit of lace hangs over the BEAUTIFUL WOMEN 401 forehead like an opera cap, just shading their fascinat ingly wicked black eyes. In their dress and their elegant cultivated bearing they are, of course, vastly superior to the wild grace of the barefooted, unadorned Moyabamba senoritas. As a rule they are slender and petite. They are not averse to a little innocent flirtation on their way to church. When the blonde Englishman or American encounters on the narrow pavement a bevy of these prettily draped senoritas, the eyes of all beam ing approvingly upon him because he steps aside to let them pass (which the senors do not do), he is paralyzed or demoralized, and wonders why that pretty one smiled at him, and perhaps he may turn his steps and follow them to church with the hope of getting acquainted ; but he will be disappointed. It is wonder ful what an innocuous expression of innocence and purity the pretty faces of the little senoritas kneeling in church will assume. One who observes it at first is apt to think that but for the want of a halo and wings in place of the fascinating mantilla draped at the back as only a senorita can do it, and an occasional wicked glance from under her drooping eyelids, that she is a veritable angel. But the best of it is that they are not as much like angels as they appear to be. In Para there are more men than women, to which fact may be charged its wickedness. There are but few churches, but it contains the finest theatre in South America. In Lima there are many more senoritas than senors, and there are innumerable churches and not one respectable theatre. It has, however, the largest bull 402 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW ring in the world, where the populace gathers Sunday afternoons, while the Para crowds go to the races. In both places Sunday devotions end with the attend ance at a morning mass. It is probable that the constant church attendance in Lima is more a matter of custom than from a sense of devotion. In discussing this subject with a pretty senorita, who had travelled in Europe and America, it was jestingly observed that the stranger visiting Lima would- come to the conclusion from so much church-going that the people were very good or very bad, to which she aptly retorted : " In your country and in London I saw every where that soap was extensively advertised. Should I conclude that your people were very clean or very dirty?" The Lima senoritas of the exclusive sets are as up to date as our ladies of culture and refinement. They have excellent schools and libraries, and some of the most cultured society may be reached by those who are properly presented. Our visitors as a rule do not know anything of Lima's home or family life, as it exists among the better classes. The Castilian spoken here is as perfect as that heard in Madrid. It is incon trovertible that some of the descendents of the best early Spanish families live in Lima, reduced in circum stances by the unfortunate depressed condition of the country, who are yet as proud as in the days of their prosperity. During my stay it was my pleasure to have met many, very many friends, and enjoyed an experience FRIENDS IN LIMA 403 that would make several long chapters that might be. of interest for private table talks with friends. For special favors, I acknowledge my obligations to a young Englishman, Mr. Oliver 0. Pike, of Grace & Co., and my genial German friend, Alfredo Reich, and my cherished Irish host, the superintendent of the Gas Com pany, Barney O'Hara (with the Spanish name, Don Barnado 0 'Hara) and his charming daughters. Of the Americans resident in Lima are courteous Ricardo Neill, of Philadelphia, who has been Secretary of the Legation through many administrations and that he almost forgets he is an American, and the railway magnate who impresses his Americanisms on all, Don Juan L. Thorndyke, superintendent of the Ferro Car- rile, or the great Andes Railway, constructed by the American engineer, Henry Meigs. I record my special obligations to the popular Don Juan Thorndyke for special favors, as also to some gentlemen of the Amer ican Club for courtesies. Through the courtesy of Don Juan, a trip was made over this celebrated Oroyo Railway, starting from the station which bears the significant name of De Sem- perados, which means "God have mercy upon us," so named because it was the location of the scenes of the terrible Inquisition. In the three hours' ride up the once sacred valley of the Rimac, we zig-zagged for eighty miles on a con tinuous four per cent, grade, alternating up cat steps, or V's, instead of curves, ascending over three miles in altitude and reaching the top of the Andes, the highest point on the face of the earth whereon a steam piston has worked. 404 THE LAND OF TO-MORROW Through the Galleria tunnel, a mile long, we de scended into the Oroyo valley, the fresh beauty of which caused a sense of homesickness as we saw the water again running towards our Amazonia. It is but a few days' muleing or tramping from the end of this Oroyo Railroad to a settlement of Germans in the Chanchamayo valley. From this point, also, the river Patchitea and Tambo may be reached in a few days, where canoes may be obtained to the Ucayali in the proper season. There is also the Pichis route, to be reached from this railway terminal. It is desired and hoped that the road may be com pleted to the river, but as there are mountains to .over come and immense valleys or gorges to span, the ex pense of the work in the depressed condition of the country will delay its completion. On the return to Lima we had a remarkably thrilling descent on a wild engine at night. It had been my original plan to return to Iquitos by this railroad passage to the headwaters of the Ucayali and thence canoe it for the thousand miles down stream, or until I might meet with Don Carlos' boat on that river, as he had kindly agreed to meet me, but circum stances prevented for a time the consummation of the plans subsequently carried out. We had thus crossed and re-crossed the first Andes three times and the continent once. The journey home was made by steamer on the Pacific to Panama, along the Peruvian coast to our point of arrival at Pacamayo, thence to Guyaquil in Ecuador, and on to the bay and the city of Panama. After having crossed the continent at its widest, we RETURN VIA PANAMA 405 were now returning via the narrowest part. A delay of several days and a railroad ride of forty-seven miles across the Isthmus of Panama does not afford much opportunity to judge of the work on the Panama canal, which parallels the railroad, but one is surprised that the work was not begun sooner and long since com pleted. There does not seem to be any obstacles that engin eering ability should not as readily have overcome long ago as were the difficulties that beset Pizarro and his followers on the same isthmus, and that were by their persistence surmounted without the aid of advanced scientific appliances. The time from Lima to Panama is about ten days, and from thence to New York about eight days more, a journey of some twenty days, at a cost of about $200.00 in gold. I find these words in the "last paragraph" of my notes, written some time previous: "When I return, it will be by the more circuitous route from Europe to the Platte at Buenos Ayres, thence over the railroad to Chili, and from thence to Mollienda, the seaport of Peru, from which Cuzco is reached; thence down the historic Urubamba by rough riding in canoes for 1,000 miles through canyons to the Ucayali and Iquitos. Thence to the original starting point at the Consulate of Para, from the most distant source to the mouth. ' ' This return journey was made precisely as outlined, the story of which is told in the second volume, or "Rough Riding in the Land of the Inca." THE END The .South American Correspondence Bureau P. O. STATION "A," WASHINGTON, D. C. THIS Bureau has been established for the benefit of those residents of South arid Central America and Mexico and the islands who may desire specific information or contemplate buying American goods, or selling the products of their own lands in the United States, £s well as to supply data to the United States merchants or others who may be interested in the development ofthe Land of To morrow, especially in the exchange of products ofthe Amazon and Mississippi valleys, particu larly rubber, coffee, cacao, and materia medica. The Bureau maintains special correspond ence with the principal newspapers of the coun tries, in teres ted, which in addition to personal experience and extensive private correspondence in the Spanish, Portuguese, as well as the English, furnish the facilities of a private clear ing house. BY J. ORTON KERBEY " TAe Boy Spy," well known to all G. A. R. men and their families a few years ago, is now being issued in cheaper binding and may be had postpaid for #1.00 in cloth. ' There are over 600 pages and 60 full-page illustrations by the artists Coffin and True Williams. .IN PREPARATION A sequel to the "Land of To-morrow," describing the return trip or from West to East or down stream by a thousand miles of canoeing on the upper Amazon frpm Cuzco, is in preparation, which, is really a 'second volume ofthe "Land of To-morrow ; " will soon be ready; also "O Consul Americano Na Amazonas."