^H Ya\e University Library 39002028028372 i-Atlll 1 *gr* VC7/C- ¥^^M, FORT VANCOUVER IN 1855. (From a drawing by Caplain Richard Covinglcn ) Legends and Traditions -OF-- Northwesl History --BY-- HON. GLENN N. RANCK Author of "Pictures from Northwest History," "Letters from the Philippines," Scenes from Washington History," "Dramatic Speeches and Scenes," etc. Souvenir Edition WITH ILLUSTRATIONS 'A people that take no pride in the noble achievements of remote ancestors will never achieve anything worthy to be remembered by remote descendants," — Macaulay. American Printing and Stationery Company 903 Washington Street. Vancouver, Washington, U. S. A Among the many friends, living and dead, whose assist ance has been of great help to the writer during the last twenty- five years, we might mention the following: Col. B. F. Shaw, the pioneer-warrior ; Judge Columbia Lancaster, the first dele gate to Congress from Washington Territory; Captain Robert Williams, hero of the Cascade Blockhouse ; Major Marshall R. Hathaway, Adjutant-General of Washington and a member of the Battle- Ground expedition; A. T. Coffee, the only surviving member of that expedition ; his twin brother, A. L. Coffee, also a member of the Clarke County Rangers; 0. M. Seward, another member of that famous organization ; Phillip Christ, who came to Vancouver with the first U. S. troops; Micheal Damphoffer, Vancouver's oldest, living citizen, now in his 100th year; descendants of Amos and Esther Short, and of Mr. and Mrs. Richard Ough; Professor Hough, teacher and student of history; the writer's father, Judge William Ranck, and many other pioneer citizens of high character and unblem ished integrity. "And he shall see old planets pass and alien stars arise, And give the gale his reckless sail in shadows of new skies. He shr.ll desire loneliness, and his desire shall bring Hard on his heels a thousand wheels, a. people and a king. He shall come hack on his own track, and by his scarce cool camp, There shall he meet the roaring street, the derrick and the stamp; For ho must blaze a nation's ways, with hatchet and with brand, Till on his last-won wilderness an empire's bulwarks stand." Copyright Applied For CriZ, CONTENTS Page 1. Preface 7 2. Introduction and Appreciation 10 3. A Brief Historical Review 14 4. The Mariner 's Legend of Hope 16 5. The Coming of the Builders 19 6. An Historical Debating Society 23 7. Under the Greenwood Tree 26 8. Dedicating the Pacific Coast to Freedom 29 9. Raising the Banner of Freedom in the Northwest. ... 32 10. Legend of the Lost Galleons 35 11. The Silver Flagon 41 , 1 2. Chief Kessanah and the Waunamahs 43 13. The Ramparts of Old Fort Vancouver 46 14. Legend of the Apple Tree 51 15. Esther Short and the Redcoats 53 16. A Pioneer Witness Tree 61 17. Young Grant at -Fort Vancouver ¦ 64 18. Hank Pearson 's Ride 65 19. The Castle on the Plains 69 20. Sheridan's First Battle-Ride 72 21. A Western Cromwell 74 22. A Jacksonian Democrat 77 23. Ballad of the Battle-Ground 80 24. The Old Harney House 87 25. Scenes from Washington History 90 26. Dramatic Speech of a Western Senator 96 27. Old Vancouver Seminary 101 28. A Pacific Coast Pocahontas 104 29. Clarke County in the Spanish War Ill 30. A Romance of Old Manila 114 31. Clarke County and the Railroad Commission 118 32. A Typical Pioneer Family 121 33. A Barbara Frietchie of Vancouver Town 126 34. Pioneers and Builders of Clarke County 128 35. A Patriotic Toast 150 ILLUSTRATIONS 1. Frontispiece — Fort Vancouver in 1855 2. Map of Clarke County. 3. Abernethy 's Patriotic Speech. 4. The Old Stockade. 5. The Historic Apple Tree. 6. Pioneer Witness Tree. 7. Grant's Old Log-Quarters. 8. Another View of Grant's Quarters. (Showing the rough-hewn logs.) 9. Cascade Blockhouse. 30. Colonel B. F. Shaw, the Hero of Grand Ronde. 11. A Scene on the Washougal River 12. Umtuxilla Falls. 13. The General Harney House. 14. Vancouver's Historic Banner. PREFACE It is highly desirable that the people of any State or Nation should be familiar with its history. We take a just pride in the settlement and early history of the United States. The landing of the Pilgrim Fathers, the coming of the Puri tans and Cavaliers, Catholics and Quakers, and the early Colonial wars are known to all. The "beginnings" of any State are always of absorbing interest. This is especially true of Oregon and Washington. Through our trackless forests roamed the dusky redman, the swarthy French-Canadian, the reckless fur-trapper, the vent uresome eourier-de-bois and other wandering "soldiers of fortune." Adown our crystal streams floated the light canoe of the French "voyageur, '' making the forests resound with his boisterous mirth and musical chansons. Amid these scenes of adventure and strife moved the somber frock of the devout missionary — Roman Catholic and Protestant. Here Fathers Blanchet and Brouillet, Jason Lee and Marcus Whit man vied with each other in the spreading of the gospel. And then came the pioneer, with his noble wife and his children. His worldly possessions were few, but with his indomitable resolve and ardent patriotism, he founded these great sister-States and saved this region for the Union. The history of the Pacific Northwest begins with the dis covery of the Columbia River by an American sailor, Robert Gray, on May 11, 1792. This was followed by other explora tions on sea and land, including the famous expedition by Lewis and Clark in 1805. Then came the fur traders and the ill-fated attempt of John Jacob Astor to establish a trading post at Astoria. On the other side the British spirit of ac quisition was typified in that powerful organization, the Hudson's Bay Company, which soon made its appearance upon the scene The early missionaries came in the 30 's and the first home builders in the 40 's. In 1818 the United States and England signed the treaty of joint occupation. This treaty was renewed every ten years until 1846, when it was abrogated 8 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS by a new treaty by which the Oregon Territory became an undisputed part of the United States. While waiting for the settlement of the boundary dispute between the United States and England, the settlers of the Oregon Territory organized a provisional government, with George Abernethy as Governor. This lasted from 1845 to 1849, when the Territory was duly organized by act of Con gress. The new Governor, General Joseph Lane, took the oath of office on the last day of President Polk's administra tion. Washington Territory was organized in 1853, Isaac I. Stevens being the first Governor. Oregon was admitted to statehood in 1859, and Washington in 1889. Unti1 1853, the Oregon Territory included all of Oregon and Washington and a part of Idaho. The first Indian war in the Northwest began with the Whitman massacer in 1847. Six years afterwards a short campaign was carried on against the Indians of the Rogue River Valley. In the winter of 1855-56 occurred the great Indian uprising which lighted the Western hills with beacon fires of burning log cabins from the lava beds of Klamath to the blue shores of Puget Sound. This was the result of a powerful coalition among the savage tribes, known as the "Conspiracy of Kamiakin.' The story of this great onslaught is replete with bloody massacers and hard-fought battles. This terrible struggle was a severe trial of the courage and fortitude of the early settlers. It has left for us many thrilling traditions — a dra matic story for every storm-swept crag, a tender legend for every sun-lit vale. Shall we hear them? This series of disconnected sketches is written with the hope of awakening an interest in the hearts of all, especially of the school children, in our long-neglected Northwest his tory. A feeble attempt has been made to invest the scenes with the same life and spirit with which they were enaeted. It is hoped that these pages will not be found dull and color- 'fss to the reader. Indeed, to the sympathetic student any account of the trials, hardships and the heroic deeds of our gallant pioneer men and women, should never be found lack ing in life or spirit. OF NORTHWEST HISTORY Too much credit cannot be given our patriotic pioneers. Leaving home and friends behind them, they traveled for months across the desert plains, erected homes, schools, and churches, "endured the hardships of Indian warfare, founded three noble commonwealths, and fairly won this magnificent domain for the Union. To the writer the "short and simple annals" of the early settlers — their strivings, their sufferings, their heroism, "their homely joys and destiny obscure" are of entrancing, absorb ing interest. He wishes to lay his faint but fervent tribute of praise at their feet. To the sturdy pioneer and his noble wife this little volume is humblv and reverently dedicated. GLENN N. RANCK. Vancouver, Washington. January 1, 1914 10 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS INTRODUCTION AND APPRECIATION (Note — Proffessor Hough, the writer of this introduction, taught school in Vancouver thirty years, and was for many years principal of the Vancouver High School. A quarter of a century ago he was the beloved school teacher of the author of this work. GLENN N. RANCK.) History furnishes a fascinating topic for both the author and the reader. In special fields of historic research no writer has a more important task, or a labor more interesting and fruitful, than he who collects, records, and embelishes the memories, the experiences, the traditions and legends of pion eers in any extended region. This is especially true of the historic birth of the Pacific Northwest. Here the pioneer days teemed with events path etic, heroic, even tragic, and always patriotic. The collection and annotation of these memories is a useful and valuable work. Such productions ought to be greatly enjoyed by the immediate descendants and successors of those esteemed pioneers. They will certamly be highly appreciated by the future historian seeking source-material for more pretentious historical tomes. For these and other reasons — some personal — the follow ing pages are greatly appreciated by me. I have known the author intimately since his childhood, and have found him, in his adolescent and mature years, to be a close student of his tory, which he always read with a degree of patriotism, not always apparent even in those we consider students of, or authors on history. Mr. Ranck was born of intelligent and patriotic pioneer parents in Vancouver, Washington. His maternal grandparents also having been early pioneers of the Oregon Territory. In childhood he inherited, absorbed and assimilated this intelligent patriotism of the pioneers. For him it has been a labor of love to sit with the pioneers of this section — as they successively lapsed into the reminiscent age — and to store his mind with their graphic descriptions of the experiences, the deeds, the heroism, and the patriotism of the OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 11 men and women who laid the foundations of the present great commonwealths of the Pacific Northwest — These reminiscen ces and historic data he has faithfully collected and inter estingly recorded in the following pages. My friend and former pupil, Glenn Ranck, has had a varied and interesting western career. His early days were spent on his father's farm adjoining Vancouver and in the village sehool. Some twenty and twenty-five years ago he participated in government surveys among the wilds of the Cathlapcodle or Lewis River, and was brought in close con tact with the homesteaders and backwoodsmen of that region. He taught in country schools and kept a country store, and was for some years editor of a Vancouver newspaper. When still a bey he planted the first tree ever planted on the public school grounds at Vancouver and in recognition of this act, a flourishing tree has been planted in his honor by the pupils of the Columbia School of this city. With the sons of other pioneers, he served as private, corporal and sergeant in the Washington Volunteer Regiment during the Spanish war and Philippine campaigns; has been trustee of the City Library, President of the Volunteer Fire Department, Justice of the Peace, has twice represented his native county of Clarke in the State Legislature, and is at present Register of the U. S. Land Office at Vancouver. His rich experiences as teacher, editor, soldier and legislator, and the part he has played in the public and political affairs of this state, add immensely to his qualifications as a historian and writer. Especially do I think this record is of value to the young people, the rising and future generations of citizens. Here they will find concrete and inspiring examples of that sturdy spirit and patriotic individuality which has been so marked a characteristic of the citizens of this region, and which we hope will continue to predominate in the characters of succeeding generations here. To the citizens in general; to our youth especially; and to the writer engaged in research may this modest work prove as interesting, useful, and enjoyable as it has been to the author's friend, P. HOUGH. 12 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS OTHER WORDS OF APPRECIATION AND ENCOURAGEMMENT (From Eva Emery Dye, author of "McLoughlin and Old Oregon," "McDonald of Oregon," "The Conquest, The Story of Lewis and Clark," etc.) Oregon City, Oregon, November 4, 1913. Hon. Glen N. Ranck, Vancouver, Washington. Dear Mr. Ranck, — Wit.i very great satisfaction I have read the first install ment of your "Pictures From Northwest History." Your writings seem to bring us nearer to the heart of the soil, and were an inspiration to me, full of anecdote and reminiscence. Out of chronicles such as yours, history is made, real history, the life of a time and a people. Back of all formal records lie these traditions of a people. I wish more would follow in your footsteps, ploughing the ground for the future Shakespeare. Out of these bits of heroism, plays may come, dramas, poems, operas, paintings, statuary, — the future of Pacific literature and of art. Giving you my best encouragement, I am, Yours truly, EVA EMERY DYE. (From George H. Himes, Secretary Oregon Pioneers' Association.) Portland, Oregon, March 15, 1897. Glenn N. Ranck, Vancouver, Washington. Dear Sir, — I read with much interest your article in Sunday's Ore- gonian, on "A Western Cromwell." I lived but a few miles from Fort Steilacoom in 1856, and had for three years pre vious, and knew all the persons you name. As to the "powdered wig" business, that reads well — but — well, so far as I know Judge Lander was never suspected of wearing a wig, much less having it powdered. But little things like these should not spoil a good story. I knew Col. Shaw well. It was in 1854 or '55 that he stayed all night at my father's house. The incident you refer to was true — and a big mess grew out of it. Yours truly, GEO. H. HIMES, OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 13 (From Edmond S. Meany, Professor of History, University of Wash ington.) University Station, Seattle, Washington, Oct. 23, 1902 Hon. Glenn N. Ranck, Camas, Washington. Dear Sir. — I have heard of you often and have wished to see you. One thirg I wish you would do now for me. On November 10, I deliver an address in which I would like to use your poem on ' ' Pearson 's Ride. ' ' Will you please send me a signed copy for my archives? If this will take too much time, please send me the poem to be copied here. Yours faithfully, EDMOND S. MEANY. (From Hon. Miles Poindextor, U. S. Senator from Washington.) United States Senate, Washington, D. C,, July 24, 1911 Hon. Glenn Ranck, Vancouver, Washington. Dear Ranck, — I appreciate exceedingly your booklet of historical sketch es. I have read them over and will fully enjoy them later, at greater leisure. They have real literary charm and local flavor, and 1 would like to see you develope them a little furth er and publish in book form. With best wishes, Very truly yours, MILES POINDEXTER. (From former President Theodore Roosevelt, upon receipt of a letter from the author, inclosing some of his historical articles and speaking of his intention to publish them in book form.) Office of Theodore Roosevelt, The Outlook, 287 Fourth Ave., New York, Dec. 13, 1911 non. Glenn N. Ranck, Vancouver, Washington. My Dear Comrade Ranck, — It was fine to get your letter, and I was glad to learn all about your activities. Naturally I should like to receive a copy of that little book which you have written. It is good of you to suggest sending it, and I appreciate your kindness. With all good wishes, Sincerely yours, THEODORE ROOSEVELT. 14 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS A BRIEF HISTORICAL REVIEW This book consists of a series of articles written and pub lished in local papers at various times, extending thru a num ber of years. An attempt has been made in this work to give them sequence and order, and they have been strung together, "as the Indians string their bright-colored beads." It is not claimed for this book that it is profound and deep, but we hope that it will prove interesting and entertaining, and that it will develop an interest in local history and patriotism. The articles should be read in the order in which they appear, and it is hoped that this brief historical review, with the Intro duction and Preface will be perused carefully. An especial effort has been made in this work to revive local traditions and preserve the poetical Indian names and legends. The following important events and dates in our Northwest history should be carefully studied and remembered: 1. The Columbia River discovered by Captain Robert Gray, an Amei'ican navigator, on May 11, 1792, and named in honor of his ship, the Columbia. 2. In 1803, the Louisiana Purchase, which gave the United States another claim to the Oregon Territory. 3. In 1805, the Lewis and Clark Expedition. 4. The founding of Astoria, by an American, John Jacob Astor, in 1811 5. The Treaty of Joint Occupation between the United States and Great Britain in 1818; renewed every ten years until 1846. 6. The founding of Fort Vancouver, by the Hudson's Bay Company, in 1824. 7. The coming of the eai'ly missionaries, 1834-40. 8. The coming of the pioneer immigrants of 1841-42-43. 9. Organization of the Provisional Government of Oregon Territory, in 1845, with George Abernethy as Governor. /~H£ O/ofiLD, I ftl/i£ I? io£, BMtL£* t-ortA, 30 f££T Of l*/J9T£n /tr L OW 7/fff Map of Clarke County, Washington. OF NORTHWEST HTSTORY 15 10. Treaty of 1846, giving Oregon and Washington to the United States. 11. Whitman Massacer and Cayuse War, in 1847. 12. Organization of the Territory of Oregon, with Gen. Joseph Lane as Governor, 1849. 13. Organization of the Territory of Washington, with Gen. Isaac I. Stevens as Governor, in 1853. 14. Indian Wars of 1855-56 and '58. 15. Later events, Civil War, Development, Spanish War, etc. 16 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS THE MARINER 'S LEGEND OF HOPE (Written in 1895.) The early mariners sought for the mythical passage across America as faithfully as did the .Knights of the Round Table for the Holy Grail, and these expeditions finally led to the discovery of the Columbia River. In 1875, De Heceta, a Span ish navigator, after trying in vain to enter a bay on the Pacific coast, reported that: "The currents and eddies caused me to believe that the place is the mouth of some great river or some passage into another sea." Several jears afterwards, Captain Meares, an English sailor, made a futile attempt to enter thf same bay. Vexed and chargined by his failure, he named the northern projection Cape Disappointment. Robert Gray, an American seaman, after many fruitless efforts, made against the repeated advice of Captain Meares, finally suc ceeded in entering the bay on May 11, 1792, and sailed up the noble river, to which he gave the name of his sturdy ship, the Columbia The name of Cape Disappointment was changed to Cape Hancock, in remembrance of the revolutionary patriot, John Hancock, while the twin point opposite was named in honor of his compatriot, Samuel Adams. Among the legends of the West Clingeth the tales of the famous quest For the Mythical Strait from sea to sea — The quest of mariners, bold and free ; Many a noble ship was lost — Dashed 'mong the rocks and tempest-tossed, And gallant seamen from every land, Found a last rest on Pacific's lone strand. First came De Heceta from far sunny Spain, Swiftly sniling tin. watery main; And seeking to gain both wealth and fame, lie spied a bay from which there came A deep, swift stream, inclosed by a sate, That barred him out like the hand of fate ; i OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 17 His efforts to enter did not avail, — 'Gainst wave and rock he could not prevail; So, turning his prow away from the West He sailed back home from the bootless quest. Soon Captain Meares, with English crew, Came plowing through the ocean blue ; Dense mists and fogs o'er the passage hung, About the shrouds and masts they clung; All efforts to cross the bar were vain, — The hard-sought entrance he did not gain; And vexed and baffled by rock-bound shape, He named it Disappointment Cape ! It stood like a specter, gaunt and grim, Pointing its stony hand at him. j As Meares sailed back to his island home, He met the Columbia crossing the foam; 'Twas manned by Gray and his gallant seamen, — A dauntless crew of American freemen ! "We have sought in vain for the fabled stream," Quoth the British seaman, " 'Tis only a dream; Turn back, turn back from the hopeless quest." "Nay, nay," said the Yankee, "We'll do our best!" Straight on to the rock-bound bar sailed Gray, And there he remained from day to day, Striving to enter o'er and o'er, — Each time determined to try once more. At last on a beautiful morn in May, They sailed through the gate and entered the bay; The mists and fogs before them flew, Unfolding a fair enchanting view, With green sloping shores, snow-covered mountains, And high cliffs shrouded in silvery fountains. On, on, they sailed, up the broad crystal stream, Charmed by dear vision of fond fairy dream. This lordly stream where they loved to float, Now murmurs the praise of their gallant boat; And, forsaking the name the Briton gave, The Cape remembers a patriot brave. 18 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS We are all like Gray and his gallant crew, Mariners saling the trackless blue ; Tho dashed by wave and tempest-shock, If, free as the wave and firm as the rock, We follow the needle to hope's star ever turning, Like magician with wand and true Faith ever burning We may wondrously change, as by wave of the hand, Disappointment 's bleak cape to bright, hope 's fair land Doubt's mis ts in fright will take their flight, "While visions of beauty will burst into sight, And Hope's fair bay, unconcealed will lay, As on that glorious morn in May. OF NORTHWEST HTSTORY 19 THE COMING OF THE BUILDERS (Written in 1895) "I hear the tread of pioneers of nations yet to be, The first low wash of waves where soon shall roll a human sea" "The immigration of '43" was the largest of the early movements to the Northwest and may be taken as typical of the others. During their famous winter journey of the year previous, Marcus Whitman and A. L. Lovejoy in addresses and letters to their friends and to the newspapers pictured the glories of the Pacific Coast and its importance to the Union. On every auspicious occasion they faithfully preached the Gospel of the Northwest. Early in the spring while the melting snow still lingered on many a wind-swept hill, the people began their pilgrimage toward the appointed rendezvous in a grove near Independ ence, Missouri. They gathered as if by magic, soon number ing one thousand dauntless spirits. They came from all parts of the Missippi Valley, bringing their families, horses, wagons, cattle and house-held gods. They had takeu their last look at the old home, had viewed for the last time the scenes of their youthful joys, and had spoken their last good-by to their dearest friends, for they were about to depart on a long jour ney to a far country, never to return. Notices were circulated through the various camps call ing a meeting on May 17, for the purpose of drawing up a compact and forming an organization. It was truly a motley assemblage which thus came together. Peter H. Burnett, afterwards Governor of California, was first called upon for a speech, which he delivered from a throne of moss-carpeted logs. Among the audience was a gallant youth, named James "VV. Nesmith, who was destined to win glory for himself and Oregon in the senate of the United States. Senator Nesmith has left the following account of Burnett's address: 20 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS ^^ "He appealed to our patriotism by picturing forth the glorious empire we should establish on the shores of the Pacific,- how with our trusty rifles we would drive out the British usurpers who claimed the soil, and defend the coun try from the advances and pretensions of the British, and how posterity would honor us for placing the finest portion of our country under the dominion of the Stars and Stripes. He concluded by a slight allusion to the hardships and trials in cident to the trip, and dangers to be encountered from hostile Indians. He furthermore intimated a desire to look upon the tribe of 'noble redmen' that the valiant and well-armed crowd around him could not vanquish in a single encounter." After other patriotic addresses, an organization was formed by the election of Mr. Burnett as captain, and J. W. Nesmith as orderly sergeant. On May 20, 1843, this semi-military caravan took up the line of march. Captain Gantt, an old trapper and mountain eer, acted as guide to the Green River, where Dr. Whitman overtook them and guided them to Fort Hall. From that point they were lead by an old Cayuse Indian named "Stic- cus. " Dr. Whitman strongly insisted that the settlers should take their wagons all the way to the Columbia. They followed his wise counsel and brought the first "prairie schooners" to the "continuous woods, where rolls the Oregon." They marched as did Crusaders to the Holy Land. Scouts rode in advance to prevent surprise from bands of prowling savages ; a specified number of men were continually under arms, ready at all times to repel any attack, while faithful sentinels kept the lonely vigils of the night, peering with tire less eyes into the mysterious darkness for any flitting forms or phantoms which might disturb the weird bivouac of the wanderers. For full six months the home seekers journeyed on and on, over barren deserts strewn with the ghastly skeletons of men and cattle, across high mountains and swollen torrents, till they came in sight of the beautiful valley of the promised land. Having once put their hands to the plough-share, amid OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 21 all their trials and temptations they never failed; they never for a moment thought of turning back. Nor was the journey without its brighter sides. Many an amusing incident occurred which kept the traveling com munity in mirth for days; many enduring friendships were formed which ceased only with life itself. Gathering at eventide around the camp fire's fitful beams, they sang the songs that Israel sang beside the deep Red Sea ; they sang the songs of Home and Freedom beneath the green wood tree, and of the land they would redeem for sweet lib erty. In the serene and quiet night from some lone moun tain-side rang the glad, clear song of the pioneer, rousing the mountain lion from his downy couch, while trembled with fright tho timid deer. L THE HYMN OF THE PIONEER From broad Mississippi's swelling maiu We come over mountam and desert plain, We come as did Israel's chosen \host To seek Freedom's home on Pacific's fair coast; To win for the Union, by strength of the Lord, The fair land of Promise from Royalty's hord, Swell the bold chorus, exultingly sing, With Liberty's anthem the dim woods will ring. Our homes in the West shall proclaim Liberty, There from his bondage the slave shall be free; We sing the glad songs of the brave and the blest, For the spirit of freedom abides in the West. Swell the sweet anthem, exultant and free, ' Sound the loud timbrel from sea unto sea, JehoVah will triumph, his people be free, All will be free — all will be free ! At length, their sojourn in the wilderness being o'er, from some lofty mountain height they viewed the promised land. When they beheld the fertile valley of the majestic Columbia, and the beautiful waters of Puget Sound covered with so many lovely isles, it all seemed to them like a. fairy picture of that quest of the ages: 22 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS "The island-valley of Avalon, Where falls not hail, or rain, or any snow, Nor even wind blows loudly; but it lies Deep-meadowed, happy, fair with orchard-lawns, And bowery hollows crowned with summer sea." And here, soothed by the moaning of Old Ocean, pleased by the melody of murmuring streams, and charmed by the «heery welcome of the birds, they ceased from their quest and founded the States of Washington and Oregon. ABERNETHY'S PATRIOTIC SPEECH (From a sketch by John D. Clancy) OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 23 AN HISTORICAL DEBATING SOCIETY (Written in 1895) History, as written by profound and pedentic Professor Dry-as-dust, pays very little attention to the Debating Club. In fact, most histories do not even mention the term. Still, the Debating Society or Lyceum is one of the "institutions" of America. It is a part of the great American system. From the landing of the Pilgrims, during the Colonial period, in the upbuilding of the mighty West, and on to the present time, it has always played an important part in our history. This institution had a share in the "Americanizing" of the great Northwest, and helped to save it as a part of our glorious Union. Among the first social organizations of this region was the Lyceum and Debating Society formed by the early set tlers at Willamette Falls, now Oregon City. From 1840 to 1843 the most important question in the minds of the pioneers was the question of government. Under the treaty of Joint Occupancy, neither the United States nor Great Britian could take any steps towards controlling the political affairs of the Oregon Territbry, which then included Washington. Thus left alone, the pioneers found themselves torn by conflicting emotions and desires. One party formed by the British and French-Canadians connected with the Hudson's Bay Com pany, and aided by some unpatriotic Americans, favored an independent government — a Pacific republic. On the other side a temporary government, based upon the principles of the Americar constitution and providing for ultimate absorption by the great Republic, was near to the hearts of the patriotic Americans as a "consummation devoutly to be wished." This great question was freely discussed at various meetings of the Lyceum. At a meeting early in 1843 the following reso lution was offered as a subject for debate: "Resolved, that it is expedient for the settlers upon the Pacific coast to estab lish an independent government." George Abernethy, after ward first provisional Governor of Oregon, opposed the reso lution, but after a warm discussion it was carried by a large 24 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS majority To cheek this drifting away from the Union, Mr. Abernethy introduced as the subject at the next debate : "Resolved that if the United States extends its jurisdiction over this country within the next four years, it will not be expedient to form an independent government." By the time for the next meeting great interest had been aroused, and the people attended in large numbers, some bringing their wives and children. The men who thus came together in that rude, dimly-lighted log cabin on that event ful evening, in personality, appearance and traditions, pre sented many strong contrasts. The flickering light from the blazing fireplace and the candles' fitful beams casting weird, grotesque shadows about the room, served to bring the characters into bolder relief, and made the contrast still more intense. There was one of the early missionaries, a follower of John Wesley, sitting by a group of French-Canadians; a French-Huguenot, whose forefathers had fled across the sea after the ill-fated eve of St. Bartholomew, sat near a venture some courier-de bois, who had crossed the raging torrents and roamed the trackless wilds from the isles of the St. Law rence to the River of the West. A descendant of a gallant cavalier who had fought that Prince Charlie might "come to his own again" jostled against a Puritan whose forefathers fought ox„ the side of Oliver Cromwell at Naseby and Marston Moor. On the virgin soil of Oregon the Roundhead was again to win a victory over the Cavalier; freedom was again to triumph over royalty. The grandson of a British redcoat who surrendered with CornwaUis was about to yield a bloodless sword to an American whose grandfather had suffered with Washington at Valley Forge only to triumph with him at Yorkton * Before this motley group George Abernethy arose to de- *Rev. Cushing Eels was descended from Maj. Samuel Eels, one ot Cromwell's officers. Hon. C. M. Bradshaw was a direct descendant of John Bradshaw, who presided at the famous trial of King Charles I. Mr. Bradshaw still preserves the relics of the brave "regicide" who boldly voted to behead the tryant kinglet. Rev. G. Hines, Rev. D. Leslie, the Crocketts, McBrides and the Applegates were from Revolutionary an cestry. Of course, they were not all present at this particular meeting, but they participated in many similar scenes. G. W. Le Breton, who, doubtless was present, was a noble type of the patriotic Huguenots. OF NORTHWEST HTSTORY 25 fend his patriotic resolution. We have no record of his speech, only that it was ' ' earnest. ' ' That is all. He doubtless remind ed the Americans of the immortal Declaration of Independ ence, of the suffering and trials of their Revolutionary fore fathers, of the efforts of Washington, Madison and Franklin, to establish this glorious Union. And how Clay and Webster, Jackson and Benton, the great friends of the West, had pro tected and preserved it. "Was it in vain that the embattled yeomanry of Lexington and Concord had fought so bravely "by the rude bridge that spanned the flood?" Was it in vain that Warren had given up his life on that blood-swept slope at Bunker Hill? Could they forget the blood-stained footprints on the snow-clad hillsides of Valley Forge; the stirring mid night ride of Paul Revere, or the recent perilous journey of their gallant comrade, Marcus Whitman? Never while life lasted could they forget the traditions and legends of their* heroic ancestry! Never until liberty became merely a mem ory and patriotism only a name, would they falter ia their love or devotion to the great Republic ! ' ' While the patriot was speaking no sounds were heard save the sound of the speaker's voice. But ere his voice had died away a mighty shout arose from the hardy pioneers. All patriotic Americans present "joined in," the mild tones of the women and children blended with the strong, lusty voices of the men in one grand triumphant note. It rolled through the room, on out into the little clearing and penetrated the for ests beyond. "The dim aisles of the woods rang with the anthems of the free." What was that shout and what did it mean? It was the paeon of liberty. It was the victorious cry of triumphant freedom. It meant that the resolution was carried by a large majority and that Old Glory would yet wave over the homes of the West. The fire on the hearth had burned low, smold ered and died ; but in living hearts another fire glowed bright ly, for those burning words had "kindled the land into flame with their heat." It is now over half a century since this scene was enacted, but the speech of Abernethy before that historic debating society is not forgotten by the descendants of the pioneers. 26 LEGENDS AMD TPADTTTONS UNDER THE GREENWOOD TREE (Written in 1895) Owing to the noble efforts of the early missionaries, and patriotic iiscussions in the Pioneer Lyceum, the demand of the settlers of the Oregon Territory for a temporary government based upon American principles and providing for ultimate absorption by the United States, continued to grow rapidly in the spring of 1843. This plan met with great opposition from the British settlers, and the employees of the Hudson's Bay Company. In order to quiet this opposition a meeting was called for the purpose of adopting measures for the de fense of herds against the attacks of wolves and other wild animals. This meeting was held at the house of Joseph Ger- vais in the Williamette Valley, and is known as the "Wolf Meeting." It declared war against wolves, bears, panthers and other predatory animals, and adopted plans for their de struction A treasurer was elected and the organization of the Wolf Association was completed. But the meeting did not adjourn. As if moved by some unseen inspiration, it then and there passed a resolution for the appointment of a committee of twelve "to take into con sideration the propriety of taking measures for the civil and military protection of the colony." A written protest from the subjects of the Queen was promptly laid on the table. The committee of twelve called the colonists to meet at Champoeg on May 2, 1843, to vote on their plan of govern ment. Centuries before, the freeholders of England had met in a meadow at Runnymede and there wrested their sacred rights from the reluctant hand of a cowardly king. So now did these free American citizens assemble in an open field to up hold the scepter of freedom and justice against the determined assaults of tyranny and royalty. The meeting which was held on this beautiful day in May was one of the most inter esting and picturesque in all history. There were emigrant OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 27 wagons, the earliest "prairie schooners" to cross the billowy plains piloted by bolds captains of civilization, who had pitched their tents near by. All around was the deep prime val forest. On the branches overhead the birds twittered softly while building their summer's abode; squirrels leaped joyfully from bough to bough, and the fieet-footed deer, "poor, dappled fools, being native burghers of this desert city," lifting their heads from the cool brook which babbled by, fled in terror from their favorite haunt. Here, under the greenwood tree, with the blue sky above them and the voice of nature in their hearts, the pioneers met to form an Ameri can government. In these sylvan shades the scion of Revolu tionary sires again opposed the haughty Briton; in this open field cavalier and Puritan met once more in bloodless con flict; in freedom's glorious sunshine, a freed negro struck his first vigorous blow at those who had so cruelly torn his fore fathers from the sunny clime of Africa.* A few dusky red- men of the forest, looking warlike in their paint and feathers, were interested spectators of this strange scene of which they unconsciously formed a part. The meeting was called to order with Dr. I. I. Babcock presiding. G. W. Le Breton, acting as secretary, read aloud the compact of government. It was then voted on, those in favor shouting "aye," and those opposed "no." The vote was almost even, but the motion seemed lost. Le Breton called for a division. Everybody became excited. Noise and confusion reigned. At this crisis Joe Meek, the pioneer ex plorer and scout of the Northwest, sprang forward. As he stood before that strange group with his strong, erect figure drawn to its full heighth, his head thrown back, his black eyes flashing and the Indians looking on with ever-increasing am azement, the whole scene formed a most striking picture, with the dark forest for a back-ground. Waving his hand, Joe Meek shouted in his usual spirited manner: "All those who favor the government, follow me!" Accordingly those fav oring the organization followed Meek to the right, while those •A mulatto named Winslow Anderson was among the early settlers of the Willamette Valley. In 1843 "prairie chooners' were for the first time brought all the way from the Missouri River to the "continuous woods where rolls the Oregon." 28 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS opposed filed to the left. The count showed that the compact was carried by the close vote of fifty-two against fifty. Free dom had triumphed. The provisional government thus organized adopted an organic law "until such time as the United States of America extend their jurisdiction over us," also providing that "There shall be neither slavery nor involuntary servitude in said territory, other than for punishment of crimes whereof the party shall have been duly convicted." This provision adopt ed eighteen years before the Rebellion, kept Oregon and Wash ington firm in their devotion to the cause of the Union and Freedom in the time of direst need. Truly, the result of this open-air meeting held in the forest wilds of Oregon half a century ago can hardly be overestimated. What thoughts must have filled the brain of the typical pioneer as he wended his solitary way home ward in the deepening dusk of that May evening ! With his trusty rifle on his shoulder and his faith ful dog at his side, he followed the many windings of the nar row footpath through the darkening forest. Entering the dark recesses of the forest dell, he leaned upon the trunk of a large fir tree to rest his weary limbs. As he closed his tired eyelids the elfin voices of the forest rang in his ears. He seemed to hear the fairy foot falls of the guardian of the wood as she waved her wand about him, and visions of the future came and went before his enraptured sight. He saw the Northwest peopled by a happy population, the beautiful val leys covered with villages, farms and factories. Over it all floated the flag of the glorious firmly-united Republic, remind ing him strongly of the prophetic picture observed by Benja min Franklin at the Constitutional convention. The setting sun had long since disappeared below the horizon, but above liberty's horizon, morning was to break anew on this far Western coast and before the sun of the Union reached its zenith, the day star of our hope was destined to glow with still brighter lustre, like another sun risen on mid-noon." OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 29 DEDICATING THE PACIFIC COAST TO FREEDOM (Written in 1896) Under all circumstances, in peace and in war, the Ameri can navy has gallantly upheld the dignity and power of the United States. Among the most daring of this country's heroes was Captain Charles Wilkes. This distinguished officer explored the coast of Oregon and Washington in 1841, and encouraged the early settlers in their patriotic efforts to win this region for the great Republic. He disapproved of the attempt to organize a Pacific republic, advising the Ameri cans to wait until the government of the United States should throw its mantle over them. The American sentiment was greatly strengthened by his words of hope and cheer. In 1841 Captain Wilkes and his merry crew signalized the return of our Nation's birthday by holding the first Fourth of July celebration on the shores of Puget Sound. The place selected for this purpose was Mission Prairie, near Fort Nes- qually, a trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company. As the Fourth came on Sunday the celebration was held on the fifth of July. On that morning all was bustle and activity on board the ship Vincennes. At nine o'clock all the crew was mustered on board in their clean white frocks and trousers, and all, including the marines, were soon landed. With music playing and flags flying, they marched to the scene of festivity about a mile distant. They also carried ashore two brass howitzers with which to fire the usual salute. An ox, bought for the occasion, was soon roasted to a turn, the bug].' was blown for dinner and all repaired to partake of the barbecue. Captain Wilkes says: "By this time the Indians had gathered from all quarters and were silently look ing on at the novel sight, and wistfully regarding the feast which they saw going on before them." The neat, loose-fitting uniforms of the sailors, the bright- colored garments of the savages, the rich, green shades of the forest, the beautiful blue waters of Puget Sound and the 30 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS patriotic memories belonging to the occasion, all combined to make this an interesting scene in Northwest history. After dinner the usual salutes were fired and patriotic sentiments were given voice. At sunset they returned to the ship in good humor. While passing Fort Nesqually they gave three hearty cheers for the American flag and waited, sailor like, for the reply. The British response was given by only a few voices, a circumstance which led to many jokes among tlie seamen. To the English the cheer of the sailors was "a cry of defiance and not of fear." No wonder thier reply was, » feeble one ! In May, 1843, when the people of the region decided by a vote of fifty-two against fifty to establish a provisional govern ment based upon American principles, they appointed a com mittee to draw up the organtic act. This committee selected July 5 as the day on which the people were to meet to pass upon their charter. However, the opposition was still strong, and the Americans decided to hold a celebration on the Fourth of July to strengthen the patriotic cause. Rev. Gustavus Hines was chosen orator. His speech did not consist of part isan denunciation; it was one of the dear old-fashioned kind, It had its source in the higher springs of patriotism. Plis theme was the Union ; his song was of Librety. His notes rang clear and true upon the forest air. There may be those who would prefer to hear their countrymen shamed rather praised on the natal birthday ; but not so the hearty frontiers man. The plain and simple words of the speaker went straight to the hearts of the pioneers. Mr. Hines and many of his listeners were descended from Revolutionary ancestry, and memories of the sacred past were vividly recalled. As the speaker concluded, his words took on the warmth and glow of impassioned eloquence. "All the weary way from Lexington to Yorktown our fathers proved true to the cause of American independence. Who that has ever heard the story of that struggle from the lips of a patriotic grandfather can falter in defense of our sacred rights? Though it may be of little importance what is said here, let us on the morrow remember the examples and teachings of the Revolutionary patriots and our work will be long remembered. OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 31 "When the fathers signed their names to the immortal Declaration, they pledged themselves to defend their rights with their lives, their fortunes and their sacred honor. So let us now curry on their noble work, let us dedicate ourselves and our homes to the cause of Liberty and Union, and pledge our selves to support our principles with our lives, our fortunes and our sacred honor." After the oration the national hymn "America" was sung by the entire audience. As they sang that, perfect verse where the poet boldly strikes the pure notes of sublime eloquence and invokes the sympathetic voice of nature in freedom's be half, the sturdy pioneers felt profoundly moved : "Let music swell the breeze, And ring from all the trees Sweet Freedom's song; Let mortal tongues awake, Let all that breathe partake, Let rocks their silence break, The sound prolong!" And rock and rill, mountain and forest, all. gladly pro longed the joyful sound. Thus inspired, the Americans on the morrow won another bloodless victory over the Britain, and provisional govern ment was soon in successful operation. Thus freedom tri umphed over royalty, and this region was peacefully- conquered for the Union. Truly "Peace has her victories not less re nowned than war." Mr. Hines -was descended from Stephen Hopkins, one of the "signers." The orator was elected chairman of the meeting of July 5, 1843. 32 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS RAISING THE BANNER OF FREEDOM IN THE NORTHWEST (Written in 1896) "Aye, tear her tattered ensign down! Long has it waved on high; And many an eye has danced to see That banner in the sky!" History records no greater achievement than the glorious victories won by America's naval heroes in behalf of the starry emblem of our great Republic. From the eventful morning on which Paul Jones first flung freedom's ensign to the expectant breeze, or when the undaunted Perry bore his banner in triumph from his burning flagship to that day when the noble Farragut. while lashed to the rigging of the Hartford, with the flag floating above him, achieved glory for himself and his gallant crew the log book of the American navy speaks of noble deeds. The memories aroused by the mere mention of such names as Lawrence, Decatur, Hull, Foote, DuPont and DaAdd Porter should remind us of the importance of a strong navy. But not alone in the "purple testaments of bleeding war" are the victories of the American sailor inscribed. American commerce, American spirit and American civilization have followed the American flag on the trackless paths of stormy oceans, from port to port and from sea to sea. Into whatever harbor our gallant tars have carried the starry emblem, they have also taken that love of liberty and freedom for which it stands. When Captain Charles Wilkes, of the United States navy, appeared off the coast of Oregon and Washington in 1841 his hearty assurance that the government would soon extend its jurisdiction over them seemed like a message of hope and cheer wafted by winds of ocean from the far Atlantic coast. In 1S46 the United States schooner Shark, commanded by Lieutenant Howison, was sent to explore the coast of Oregon. OF NORTHWEST HTSTORY 33 Entering the Columbia River, the Shark reached Fort Vancou ver July 24, 1846. Her officers and men were hailed with de light by the patriots of the Northwest. In June of that year a treaty had been completed by the United States and England which finally designated the forty-ninth parallel of north lati tude as the northwest boundary line. But as the news of the treaty had not yet reached the Pacific coast, the ill-feeling be tween British and Americans was becoming hourly more crit ical. As there is no greater contrast than that existing be tween a British officer and the American frontiersman, it re quired the best efforts of Lieutenant Howison to prevent blood shed. The Shark remained in Vancouver until August 23, when she left for the mouth of the Columbia. She was wrecked while crossing the bar on the 10th of September. Like the gallant Cumberland, she sank beneath the waves with her colors still flying. Her flag was all that the sailors rescued from the sinking ship. By this time news of the treaty of 1846 had just reached the Pacific coast, and as it was known that the protecting powers of the United States would soon be extended over this region Lieutenant Howison presented this flag to the provis ional Governor, George Abernethy, with the following eloquent letter: "To display this national emblem, and cheer our citi zens of this distant territory by its presence was the principal object of the Shark's visit to the Columbia, and it appears to me .therefore, highly proper that it should henceforth remain with you as a memento of parental regard of the general gov ernment. With the fullest confidence that it will be received and appreciated as such by our countrymen, I do myself the honor of transmitting the flag to your address nor can I omit to express; my gratification and pride that this relic of my late command should be emphatically ;the first United States flag to wave over the undisputed and thoroughly American Terri tory of Oregon." Governor Abernethy gracefully received the starry flag in behalf of the pioneers in his usual patriotic manner saying: "We will fling it to the breeze on every suitable occasion, and rejoice under the emblem of our country's glory, sincerely 34 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS hoping that the 'star-spangled banner may ever wave over this portion of the United States." On that glorious morn when liberty's emblem was first unfolded on the virgin breeze of primeval Oregon, all plans of a Pacific republic were swept aside. The ensign seemed to retain within its folds some of the invigorating, purifying pow er of the sea breeze in which it had so fondlly floated for so many years. As free as the wild waves of ocean, as pure as its freshest winds, as terrible as Neptune's mightiest storms, it purged the Northwest of all taint of treason and became a continual inspiration for an exalted patriotism. OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 35 r LEGEND OF THE LOST GALLEONS (Written in 1907.) While this tale of buried treasure is not given as a strict historical fact, it seems to contain many elements of truth. History records that three ship* sent out by Cortez were hopelessly stranded on the Cali fornia coast and that great wealth was lost by a colonization expedi tion under Admiral Otondo. In the light of such facts it is believed that this Tillamook tradition should be preserved to illuminate and adorn our Northwest history. — Author. There's a tale of dreams and stories drifting up the bitter main, Strewn with wrecks of ruined glories, salt with streams of ancient pain. Thru the fog-walls split in sunder, from the seas of sun and thunder, And the Carib Isles of Wonder, dreaming still of scarlet Spain. Massacers and ambuscadoes, rich armadas laid aboard, lion-hearted desperadoes, seas of gold and blood outpoured — Of these things the ports are keeping vengeful memory upsleeping, From the years of wrath and weeping, when they lay beneath the sword. — The Haunted Spanish Main. Spain was very anxious to plant colonies and missions along the shores of "New Albion," as the British called this region, especially on the banks of a great river, of which they had heard so much from the natives. History tells us that the Spanish navigator, De Heceta, looking for the mouth of that river in 1775, cast anchor in the channel between the mainland and an island on the coast of Washington. Some of his men, going ashore to explore the land, were attacked and killed by the Indians, and De Heceta barely escaped with his ships. In memory of this tragedy he named the island "Isle de Del ores" Island of grief. It is now known as Destruction Island. Several attempts were made by the Spanish to gain a foot hold in Oregon and Washington, but as they all came to grief, history makes scant mention of them. Their memory, how ever, still survives in the traditions of the Pacific Coast In dians, and it is one of these traditions which we call to the reader's attention. The aged Princess of the Clatsops, who, at the age of 100 years, resides in a commodious house near Sea side, Oregon,- delights to regale her visitors with this ta]e. It is, indeed, a familiar theme among the Tillamook Indians and the seamen and others who frequent that locality. Near the year 1750, or 'sometime about the middle of the lS'th ' century,' a small" fleet' sailed from San Bias, Mexico, to 36 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS plant, a mission colony on the banks of that beautiful stream now known as the Columbia, but called by the Spaniards "Rio San Rocque." This fleet consisted of two fair sized ships and three small treasure-vessels. The crew was composed of Spanish soldiers, sailors, priests, adventurers and five or six African slaves. Besides provisions the vessel was laden with silver and golden candlesticks and various costly altar adorn ments, and other articles to be used in the church they were to build. They also contained quantities of beeswax for making candles, and chests of gold and silver and other treasures with which to trade with the Indians. All told, the value of the treasure, it is claimed, amounted to nearly a quarter of a million dollars. Nor does this seem improbable if we recall that when Cor tez left Mexico with four ships to establish a colony in lower •California, the value of his treasure and supplies estimated by historians at $400,000. Speaking of one of these expeditions a Spanish writer says: "The barracks for the little garrison were now built and a line of circumvallation thrown up. In the center a tent was pitched for a tem poraiy chapel; before it was erected a crucifix with a garland of flowers. The image of 'Our Lady of Loretta,' as patroness of the Conquest, was brought in procession from the boat and placed with proper ceremonies." The expedition here spoken of by this Spanish historian was similar in many respects to the one we are now describing. Bill to continue our story, this fleet with the proud banner of Spain And its rich treasures was proceeding al*)rig the rock bound coast of New" Albion, when it was dashed by the storm npoh a cruel' reef near where the Tillamook lighthouse nbvjr stands to warn the mariner of danger. Most of the crew wer6 drowned in their frantic efforts to escape' from the sinking ships, but a few were able to reach the snore in safety. After the storm had subsided, with the' help of friendly C^latsop In dians, they succeeded In bringing ashore th£ greater paxt of the treasures and supplies.: These treasures they buried sec retly at dead of, night in a secluded part df the forest;4'' it is also, related that they' took the1 body of a" slave Washed as$bre by the Waves ind placed it upon a little mound nearby.' This OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 37 was done in the belief that the natives, having never before seen a negro, in superstitious dread would fear to approach the haunted spot guarded by the forbidding presence of the dead. As land-marks they set up square shaped stones, which they had brought with them for altar stones, at regular inter vals around the mound. These may still be seen by the visitor, and are unlike any other rocks to be found in that locality. Curious marks cut on the surrounding trees also add their silent testimony to the romantic tale. Having thus effectually hidden their rescued valuables, the survivors now started to find their way to Mexico, intending to return with another party. But they were ambushed and killed or captured by a war party of the Siletz tribe, so no one returned to relate the story of this ill-fated expedition. For a long tim e the legend of the galleons and their buried treasure slumbered in the breasts of the savages. Gabriel Franchere, an adventurous French traveler, writing of his first journey to the Cascades of the Columbia on May 8, 1811, says: "We saw a hut of Indians engaged in fishing where we stopped for breakfast. We saw here an old blind man who gave us a cordial reception. Our guide said that he was a white man, and that his name was Soto. We learned from the mouth of the old man himself that he was the son of a Spaniard who had been wrecked below the mouth of Colum bia river, that a part of the crew got ashore but were all mas sacred save four, who were spared and married native women. These four, disgusted with savage life, attempted to reach a Spanish settlement on the south coast, but had never been heard of afterward, and when his father, with his companions, left this country, he himself was very young.' In their journal Lewis and Clark write of the Tillamook Indian with a fair skin and blue eyes ; and John Minto, in 1 846, at Morrison's, near the Tillamook coast, saw a fair Indian girl, so paie that he thought she was sick. She was the daughter of Cullaby. a friendly native for -whom the lake east of Clatsop is named, and when Minto talked with Cullaby about the fair haired Indian of Clark's acquaintance, Cullaby smote his breast ard cried: "Nika papa" — "He was my father." In alluding to these various traditions John Gill says: 38 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS "This story of old blind Soto will yet be connected with the wreck of the beeswax ships on Tillamook beach. Being an old man in 1811, he was probably born about 1750, 16 years before Carver left Boston for his exploration of the Red River country." Mr. Gill also suggests a connection between these early Spanish expeditions and the derivation of the name "Oregon," and adds: "I wonder if some ship of Spain, Far-wandering in this northern sea, Touched haply on our Western main, And all unknown in history, Some bold Hidalgo named this land With floating flag and flashing brand, In memory of Aragon?" With these explanatory remarks for the purpose of mak ing the tradition more readily understood, we will proceed with our narrative. Half a century went by since the vessels had dashed against the cruel reefs, but the old tale of the Span ish wreck still lived in the memories of the aged Indians. At length it reached the ears of John Jacob Astor through some of his fur-traders who had traversed the Tillamook coast By order of the plucky founder of Astoria, a picked party of eight forest rangers, under a most trusted leader, was sent to look for the hidden treasure. Aided by an intelligent In dian familiar with the Tillamook tradition from childhood, they made a diligent search for the lost treasure. At last their labors were rewarded with success, and the glittering gold lay unearthed before them. Having come ostensibly on a fur-trading journey, they packed the Spanish doubloons and trinkets in absolute secrecy and spent some time in buying a supply of furs before turning their faces northward. Under the directions of Astor a liberal sum was given to each mem ber of the party, but the great bulk of this "treasure trove" was kept for the merchant prince who employed them. Reaching Fort Astoria shortly before Christmas they cele brated the Yuletide with uproarious laughter and song. The OF NORTHWEST HTSTORY 39 rafters of the new fort rang with their mirth as they quaffed large flagons of wine and wassail to the health of their dusky Indian maidens and to their popular patron, whom they toasted as the "king of f ur- traders. " But most popular of all was a new drink known as "Hudson's Bay Company Rum." As they drained their flagons of that now historic beverage they sang in a rough, boisterous manner a rude chorus called : THE FUR-TRADERS' BALLAD. Bold and merry Astor-men are we, We scour the valleys and sail the sea; From swift St. Lawrence to Columbia's main, From Mohawk's vale tc Willamette's plain, We traverse the country o'er and o'er, From forest to forest and shore to shore — Yo-ho, for that soldier and sailor, ranger and raider, So dauntless and daring, the fearless fur-trader. Leaders of civilization are we, Ranging the land from sea to sea ; We trade with the savage and make love to his maid, By campfire's glow and in green forest glade; We trade, fight and frolic, and hunt for gold, As free as Robin Hood of old- — Here's to the venturesome, rollicking raider, The gallant, true-hearted, care-free fur-trader. The men were pledged to secrecy and, though in the miost of gayety they let fall a few vague expressions about the dis covered treasures, nothing very definite could be obtained from them. An impenetrable mystery, as impalpable as the soft, dreamy mist of the sea, seemed to envelop the weird tale of the phantomlike wreck. Within a year or two Astor had a new fleet or two at sea, and some ancient mariners whispered that these white-winged merchant ships were the ghosts of those sunken galleons of Spain, sprung to a lustier life beneath a nobler banner. Math ematicians have figured in vain to account for the sudden in crease of the wealth of this king of the fur-traders at this period despite several disastrous ventures. Even the highest profits ever known in fur, we are told, fail to account for it. 40 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS Certain it is that rapid and magical making of gold by this famous wizard has remained one of the unsolved wonders of Northwest, history. And if these old sailors' yarns be true, the riches recovered from the Spanish wreck had, after all, a worthy share in upbuilding our Pacific Coast commerce and prosperity. Many years afterward a crew of sailors discovered the hulks of some old-fashioned ships, far below the water's sur face, on this reef of the Spaniard's woe, and a piece of one of these ancient galleons was sent to a museum in Portland, where it may now be seen. On account of the beeswax found in the galleys of these old vessels, they are spoken of as the beeswax ships. A golden candlestick found near the beach is now in the possession of a prominent citizen of Tacoma who for a long time held a commission in the revenue service of the United States government. And many are the excavations that have? been made in recent years by treasure seekers in the vicinity of the charmed spot. This was only one among the many disastrous attempts made under the haughty banner of Aragon and Castile to gain a foothold in this region, and even if true, only in part, it is typical in a historical sense of the dismal wrecks of Spanish hopes that strew our coast from the enchanting shores of Strait of Juan de Fuca to San Francisco's Golden Gate. The stormy waves of the ocean, the concealed caverns of the sea, and "even the stars in their courses" fought against them. Truth and myth intermingle in charming confusion in the dim, mysterious tradition that has survived for more than a century amid the wreckage of that storm -tossed strand. Closely enshrouded in fog and mist still lingers among those sunken hulks the mystical legend of the lost galleons. OF NORTHWEST TUST^RY 41 THE SILVER FLAGON. (Written in 1914.) In 1813, Mr. John Clarke, a member of John Jacob Astor's Company, ¦while on a fur-trading expedition up the Columbia Valley, had with him a beautiful silver goblet, the gift of Astor. One night th;s precious cup was stolen from his tent, presumably by an Indian. ClarKe, who hated the Indians, was extremely angry over the loss of the silver flagon, and in revenge, hanged an Indian, who was caught pilfering in the ea>::p i>n the succeeding night. The Indians watched the execution in silent repressed anger, treasuring up the wrong for future requittal, and Clarke's foolish act of vengeance is considered the initial cause of many bloody massacers in the Northwest. "Lift high", shouts Clarke, "The Silver Flagon," With carven image of the dragon; The gift of good John Jacob Astor, Who founded Astoria, our patron and master; 1 drink the curse of hated savage, Always planning theft and ravage ! ' ' The natives gazed at the Silver Flagon, And stood in awe of its carven dragon; A gift, they thought, from God on high, A sacred relic from the sky; They stealthily entered the tent at night, And seized the shining goblet bright. "Who stole", shouts Clarke, "my Silver Flagon? Now he shall feel the teeth of the dragon!" So, swayed by revenge, of reason bereft, He hanged a poor savage for petty theft; The redskins sat sullen, in anger suppressed, Nursing bloody revenge in each savage breast. In hanging for theft of Silver Flagon, Fierce Clarke had sown the teeth of the dragon; — Years after, mothers and children dear, Crouched low at night in deadly fear ; And many a massacer and disaster, Was due to revenge for Cup of Astor. 42 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS No trace could be found of Silver Flagon, — In vain was all search for carven dragon; For years it passed from hand to hand, An omen of ill from band to band; Nor love, nor friendship blessed the ground, Till again Talisman by pale-face was found. Now, this old tale of the Silver Flagon, With carven image of the dragon, A lesson for each of us will make : — "Think well before revenge you take; Beware of sowing teeth of the dragon, In vengeance for loss of a Silver Flagon!" FOOT NOTES In speaking of the killing of the unfortunate John Reed and his party by Indians the ensuing winter, Gabriel Franchere, the well-known explorer, says in his journal: — "We had no doubt that this massacer was an act of vengear.ce on the part of the natives in retaliation for the death of one of their people, -whom Mr. John Clarke had hanged for theft the spring before." On the occasion of the death of Mrs. Clarke, in 1910, Mrs. Velina P. Molson, a daughter of Senator J. W. Nesmith, wrote to the Oregonian: "Montreal, Nov. 20 Mr. Clarke, the husband of the woman who has just died, caused our Oregon country a great deal of trouble, as he was the bearer of the Silver Cup that old John Jacob Astor sent out to Alexander McKay, but McKay having been killed on the Ton quin, Clarke brought it back across the continent, and while in the Palouse country it was stolen, and Clarke hanged the Nez Perce who stole it. This Silvr eCup is now in Montreal and is owned by Alexander McKay's descendants. I have seen this cup and held it in my hands. The present owner brought it from the Trust Company to show it to me. The inscription is: "From John Jacob Astor to his friend Alex ander McKay, 1811." VELINA P. MOLSON. OF NORTHWEST HTSTORY 43 CHIEF KESSANAH AND THE WAUNAMAHS According to old legendary lore, the native tribes inhabit ing Vancouver and vicinity at the time of the discovery of the Columbia, were called the Waunaisses or Waunamahs, Wauna being the legendary Indian name for the Columbia River. This was a strong tribe and ruled and roamed over the valley of the Wauna from Kalama to Washougal, their chief wigwams being at Waunamah, the present site of Vancouver. Within a generation or two the fur-traders of the Hudson's Bay Company had corrupted the name of this tribe to Wau- kanisses. and that name is given by some writers. When Governor John McLoughlin established Fort Vancouver at Waunamah, old Chief Kessanah was at the head of the tribe, and greeted the pale-faces with friendship and hospitality. This was somewhat in contast to the welcome which he extended to the white men in his earlier years, before his youthful pugnacity had been cooled by the sharp explosion of powder and the invincible whiz of the bullets. As our readers will recall, the Columbia River was dis covered by Captain Robert Gray, an American navigator, May 11, 1792, and this discovery was followed up a few months later by Captain George Vancouver, who sailed into the Co lumbia and sent Lieutenant Broughton with a party to ascend the river in small boats. Kessanah, then a young war-chief, with a band of Waunamah braves, took a position on a rocky projection near St. Helens, called Warriors' Point, and fired a volley of arrows at the approaching boats; but the sharp, explosive reply of the British muskets soou quenched their warlike ardor, and they fled in terror. Lieut. Broughton ascended the river until he reached a beautiful point where the broad stream makes a graceful sweep toward the north west. Regarding this as .the loveliest scene he had ever beheld, Broughton gave this place the name of Vancouver's Point, in honor of his commander. In his admirable book, "Astoria," Washington Irving gives this famous description of the 44 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS place: — "About eight miles above the mouth of the Wallamot the little squadron arrived at Vancouver's Point, so called in honor of that celebrated voyager by his lieutenant, Brough ton. This point is said to present one of the most beautiful scenes on the Columbia; a lovely meadow, with a sheet of limpid water in the center, enlivened by wild fowls, a range of hills crowned by forests, while the prospect is closed by Mount Hood, a magnificent mountin rising into a lofty peak, and covered with perpetual snow; the ultimate landmark of the first explorers of the river." Profiting by this early lesson, Chief Kessanah and his followers extended a friendly welcome to the fur-traders of the Hudson's Bay Company when they came to found Fort Vancouver. Kessanah was a tall, strongly built man, big- framed with a large, smiling face and keen eyes. His in fluence was felt far and near, in his own tribe as well as among the wigwams of his neighbors. In the course of time he be came a welcome visitor at the fort, where he and his young daughter. Princess Kessanahwie, were usually feated and en tertained as honored guests. The Chieftain's daughter, Kas- sanahwie, grew to be a charming Indian maiden and became very popular with the young employees of the company. She eventually married one of these ventursome fur-traders, Rich ard Ough, who took up a homestead and became a useful citi zen of Clarke County. She lived to an honored old age, re spected by all, and her descendants are still numbered among our worthy citizens. As their happy hunting-grounds near Fort Vancouver or Waunamah were soon despoiled by the "King George Men" the Waukanisses or Waunamahs retreat ed to the hills and valleys of the Lewis River, and finally be came merged into the Klickitats and Yakimas. A year or two after the fort had been erected, so the leg end runneth, the Wasco Indians, near Tha Dalles, became angry at some of the company officials, and came dashing down the river in their war-canoes, proudly arrayed in paint and feathers, to make a night attack- on the stockade. Hear ing of the approach of their heredity foes, a war party of the Waunamahs under old Chief Kessanah, repaired to the assist? ance of their friends in Fort Vancouver. Unaware of the OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 45 plans made for their reception, and confident of an easy vic tory, the Wascoes stealthily crept in the darkness towards the walls of the stockade. As they neared the ditch which surrounded the fort, they sent a thick shower of arrows over the walls. Suddenly the most unexpected, screaching, terrify ing noise burst forth from the tower of the palisades. They looked up quickly, — and there, clearly revealed by the light of a torch, stood bold Colin Fraser, the plaided Highland piper, "all belted and plumed in his tartan array", strutting up and down and producing from a diabolical instrument held under his arm, with gaudy streamers fluttering from long stems growing therefrom, the most melancholy and penetrating screams. At that moment the mouth of the Great Spirit belched forth from the bastion tongues of living flame, with a terrible roaring noise, louder than the roar of the cataract. This was followed by a volley of quick, sharp noises, accom panied with a shower of arrows and iron hailstones. Shaking -with superstitious fear from this terrible rebuke of the Great Spirit, the terrified Indians sprang into their canoes and rapid ly paddled up the Columbia, leaving the Waunamahs and the fur-traders to celebrate in undisturbed merriment their first warlike triumph within the ramparts of Fort Vancouver. FOOTNOTES — "Wau-na" is pronounced with the accent on the first syllable; "Wau-na-mah" has the accent on the second syllable. It is also Called "Wau-no-mah." 46 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS THE RAMPARTS OF OLD FORT VANCOUVER. (Written in 1914). Some three-quarters of a century ago, the great Northwest was claimed by both the United States and England. The "Oregon Territory", including Washington, was controlled by these two nations under the Treaty of Joint Occupation, and Great Britain was putting forth the utmost exertions to have the Columbia River recognized as the southern boundary line for her American possessions. England's greatest stronghold was at Fort Vancouver, the chief trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company in this region. Vancouver lies on the north bank of the majestie Columbia, about one hundred and ten miles above the mouth of that broad, clear-flowing stream. The site is a most com manding one, and the scenery in all directions is of surpassing and enchanting beauty. Among the eternally snow-capped mountains which may be seen from this favored place are Hood, St Helen, Adams, Jefferson and other smaller but pic turesque peaks. At present Vancouver is a prosperous, . modern city with a progressive, intelligent population of over ten thousand, and the county-seat of Clarke County, one of tip; most fertile and resourceful counties on the Pacific slope. It is an important point on the Great Northern, Northern Pacific and North Bank railroads, and is the site of the greatest double-track railroad bridge in the world; and now another iron span, the Inter-state Highway Bridge is in course of construction across the mighty Columbia at that place. Adjoining this lovely and historic city is the Vancouver Barracks, formerly Fort Van couver — the most beautiful and most healthful military post in America. This fertile land was fairly won for the Union by the heroic efforts of the sturdy Pioneers. The British were finally swept back before the incoming tide of American settlers, and where the flag of St. George once floated in the breeze, the THE OLD STOCKADE (The fa-m is 'orest-castle "on the birdw." It brings "an indelible realization of the numerqus unsurpassed, pi.-t.ir^que scenes, romantic adventures and historic events that have transpired around the ramparts of old Fort Vancouver.") OF NORTHWEST HTSTORY 47 starry emblem of the Great Republic now waves in undisputed triumph ' Fort Vancouver was established in 1824 by the Hudson's Bay Company, as their headquarters in the Northwest, and the rude stockade and blockhouse were guarded by the soldiers and retainers of that semi-military organization. The battle ments were erected as defense against the savages, and in many respects, resembled a medieval fortress. This famous forest-castle "on the border", in the midst of a vast, unex plored wilderness, covered several acres of ground, inclosed by a strong stockade, some twenty feet in height. Against the walls of the enclosure were built the log-cabins for the officers and employees of the great fur-tracing company. In the? northwest corner of the palisades stood a bastion, surmounted by two small cannon. Around this tower, during the weary watches of the night, the sturdy warden kept his guardfiil inarch — "Low-humming as he paced along, Some ancient border-gathering song." The stockade was entirely surrounded, by a ditch, which was filled with water, and was some twelve feet wide and eight feet deep. This narrow moat was spanned by a bridge of planks which was carefully taken up at nightfall, though the removal of this rude drawbridge was unaccompanied by such stirring commands as — "What, warder, ho! Up with the drawbridge; Let the portcullis fall!" At that time Fort Vancouver was replete with variety and romance. Here the brave red-man of the forest would come in his warlike paint and feathers to trade his valuable furs for worthless beads and ornaments. Here that hardy fore-runner of civilization, the intrepid fur-trapper, would come attired in his picturesque costume, and laden with the spoils of his wild wanderings over the mountains and valleys of the West. Here could be seen the daring courrier-de-bois, with the latest tidings from Detroit and Montreal upon his impatient lips. And. in this pleasant . haven these kindred adventurous spirits were wont to loiter,, spending their well- earned gains and rehearsing the tales of their many perilous 48 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS ^^ adventures. Here the noble John McLoughlin, governor of the fort would receive annual visits from the magnates of the Company and the leading Indian chieftains. At the merry Christmas-tide these "Barons of the forest" would spend many joyous nights in the large banquet-hall At these feasts the Governor would regale his guests and re tainers with that famous beverage — Hudson's Bay Rum, which was stored in the company's cellars and given only to those bearing an order from commandant. Around the festal board the forest barons and their vassals boasted of their bound less dominions, while rum and ruddy wine flowed free, and the rough rafters rang with shouts of laughter and bursts of song. The favorite chanson of that romantic time has been hand ed down by tradition and is given here as it was sung to me in my early childhood days, many years ago: — ; AROUND FORT VANCOUVER'S OLD YULE-LOG 0, Christmas night at Fort Vancouver, Is gayer, we swear, than at London or Louver ; Heap high the fir logs in the huge fire-place, By its blaze we can see each rough frontier face; By one glance at each man you can tell whence we come, As we seal our rude friendship with Hudson's Bay Rum. Hero are men of King George, with coats of bright red, And chiels who from Scotland and Erin have fled; Swarth French Canadian and dusky Kanaka, With gay voyageurs just returned from Alaska ; A pioneer of America, a strong trapper and dog, With half-breeds and Indians, around the Yule-log. Rude dare-devils of ventures by land and by sea,-- . -.,., Hardy and brave, rough and true, faithful and free; A kjng's Christmas feast at Vancouver we make, ' "VSTitb deer from lovely Lackamas and ducks from Shilli- poo Lake; ' "- Choice trout from Cathlapoojya's stream and bear from Mount Turn-Turn; — . . ' ...... >• >}'_¦>'? And. to wash it all down, rare, old Hudson's Bay Rum! At dawn the fierce and untamed glarfe ¦-'¦' •¦•*¦• Of mountain lion we boldly dare; \ OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 49 But more joyfully face at night The eyes of Indian maidens bright; And we drink to the health of our ladies gay, With frontiersman's rum of Hudson's Bay. At morn we brave the wild-cat's lair, At eve we twine dusky maids' black hair; Face death by day, to dance at night, With chieftain's daughter by candle-light, — - With laughter and song, care-free as a dog, Around Fort Vancouver's old Yule-Log! That was the Romantic Age of Vancouver's history. Those ancient glories have long since departed. The Red-coats were forced to haul down their flag and evacuate. They retreated before the peaceful but resistless invasion of the American Pioneer-Yeomanry. The once powerful Hudson's Bay Com pany now lives only in the past. Even the Red-man is now a curiosity when he visits the haunts of his forefathers and wanders in solitude down our lovely streets; while the daring deeds of fur-traders, voyageurs and scouts linger only in the memory of men tremulous with age. On the page of history alone aro these scenes of the poetic past portrayed. There alone do we see those romantic figurs as they pass and re-pass in all the vigor of their lusty manhood. When the Americans came into undisputed possession of this region, a new fort was established some distance north of the ' ' Old Fort ' ', and garrisoned by a force of United States soldiers in 1849. One of the log-houses of that time still re mains, being used as the officers' Club. Early in 1856 a block house was built near where the general's residence noAv stands. During the absence of the regular soldiers on an Indian cam paign that year, the block-house was guarded by a company of "Clarke County Rangers" commanded by Judge William Strong. It was here that the indignant women of Vancouver and vicinity presented the company with a bundle of femine apparel as a mock compliment of their famous march to the Battle Ground, a full account of which appears in another place in this book. Among the early comanders of this frontier post were sturdy veterans of the Mexican War and Indian campaigns, 50 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS Generals William S. Harney, John E. Wool and George Wright. Other officers famous in our military annals have been sta tioned here at various times, the list including Grant, Sheridan, McLellan, Pleasanton, Ord, Miles, Howard, Canby, Gibbon, Kautz Funston, Greeley and others. It was from here that Col. Steptoe started on the campaign that led to his disastrous defeat at the bloody battle of Spokane Plains. It was from here that gallant Phil Sheridan started to the rescue of the soldiers and settlers at the Cascade block-house, where ''Little Phil" received his first baptism of fire; it was from here that Gen. Howard started on his long fighting-pursuit of Chief Joseph during the Nez Perce and Bannock campaigns ; and it was from here that Clarke County Volunteers and other sol diers entrained and embarked for their long trip to the Phil ippines during the Spanish war in 1898. About thirty-five years ago the Piute tribe of Indians un der Chief Winnemucca, started on the war-path in Southern Oregon. After a short campaign under Gen. Howard they were captured, and, with the chieftain's daughter, Princess Winnemucca, were brought to Fort Vancouver. They were among the last bands of hostile Indians encamped at this place. The writer was taken by his father to the fort to view the strange sight. With other children he was led past the tents in the oak grove where the braves and their squaws and papooses were encamped. He remembers with what ter ror he met the fierce, sullen gaze of the savage warriors. Re cent tale? of savage cruelty were vividly recalled and visions of blood rushed red on the sight. It was a living object lesson in American history, more immpressive than any taught only in books. It enabled the mind to realize, years afterward, the heroism of the American home-builders — whether pilgrims under Miles Standish, Cavaliers under Captain John Smith, frontiersmen under Daniel Boone and Simon Kenton, or North west Pioneers under Colonels B. F. Shaw and J. W. Nesmith. It also brought an indelible realization of the numerous, un surpassed picturesque scenes, romantic adventures and historic events that have transpired around the ramparts of old Fort Vancouver. THE HISTORICAL APPLE TREE ("Pray plant these true love seeds of mine On far Columbia's fertile shore.") OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 51 LEGEND OF THE APPLE TREE (Written in 1913.) At a dinner party in honor of officials of the Hudson's Bay Company just before their departure from London for Port Vancouver, a young lady playfully placed her apple seeds in the pocket of a gentleman sitting at her side The seeds were carefully planted under the watchful eyes- of Governor John McLouglin. One of the seeds germinated and the sprout of a promising apple ti ee — the first apple tree on the Pacific Coast — soon made its appearance. After several years it bore one apple, which, when ripe, was picked by Governor McLoughlin and carefully cut into seventeen slices, and; one precious slice of the lucious fruit was served to each person at the governor's table. The next year the tree bore twenty apples, and it is still living and bearing fruit. The first account of this historic tree- was written by Mrs. Marcus Whitman, in her Journal, on her visit to, Fort Vancouver in 1836, when the tree was about ten years old. In Eighteen Hundred and Twenty-Six on London's famous strand, On the eve of their departure for Oregon's distant land, Hudson's Bay officials sat in festive banquet room, "With wives and mothers dear, and sweethearts in their bloom. They drank long life to ladies bright, And to their lovers tall; While glasses clinked and laughter light Rang round that stately hall. Fair Kate unto her love true, Then blushingly did say: — "These magic apple seeds take with you, When at dawn you sail away; And, that they may be a sign That you will love me evermore, Pray plant these true love seeds of mine On far Columbia's fertile shore." And so Love's apple seeds were carried to this far western. slope ; And here they thrived and prospered beyond the lover's fondest hope ; In far away Vancouver Fort, to Indians' wondering eyes, A lordly apple tree soon flung green banner;* to the skies. 52 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS Its offspring now are scattered wide O'er the broad Pacific Coast; Their luscious apples are our pride, The orchard's queen, the poet's boast. Their choice fruit they are lending, With cool shade for you and me ; While thousands we are sending To old London o'er the sea. So now we bless the lady fair And bless her lover tall, Who planted here with tender care, Sweet apples for us all. OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 53 ESTHER SHORT AND THE RED-COATS r (Written in 1S97.) As the time drew nigh when the Treaty of Joint Occupa tion was to expire, Great Britain put forth great exertions to have the Colubmia River recognized as the boundary line be tween her American possessions and the Oregon Territory. The best land in the Willamette Valley having been taken the American home-builders began to push across the Colum bia, as they had a perfect right to do, with the intention of settling upon the north side of that stream. This brought them into still closer contact with the British element, and increased the bitter feeling between them, until, in some in stances, it took on all the intensities of border warfare. During those days the scenes presented within the stock ade of the Hudson's Bay Company at Vancouver abounded with historical interest and romantic beauty. There was the French-Canadian trapper with his buckskin breeches, and his picturesque cloak carelessly flung over his shoulders, engaged in animated conversation with a party of voyageurs who had just returned in their canoes from the headwaters of the Snake River; before the company's store, a large building in the cen ter of the inclosure, a group composed of stalwart redmen of the forest, dark-skinned Kanakas from the far-off Hawaiian Isles, and plaided Highlanders from the mountains of Scot land, gave undivided attention to a venturesome eourier-de- bois who was describing his latest travels among the frozen regions of the north. An American settler paused while pass ing out of the main gateway to shout a ringing defiance to the commandant, who had threatened him with violence unless he retraced his steps to the south side of the Columbia. Alarmed by the growing frequency of such demonstra tions, the commandant ordered that the ponderous gate should be more securelly barred at nightfall, and that the draw-bridge, should b.' raised promptly at the set of sun. From the tower 54 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS in the northwest corner of the palisades the guard peered with greater vigilance into the gathering darkness. It may not be out of place to add that the writer's father was often rudely awakened at the witching hour of midnight by the sentry's .shrill cry: "Twelve o'clock and all is well!" The bastion was surmounted by two small cannon, and surrounded by a narrow plank walk. Upon this short beat, the guard, who -was frequently a Scotchman of the redoubtable Douglass clan, -would march to and fro during the weary watches of the night. "Above the gloomy portal arch, The sturdy warden kept his march, Low-humming as he paced along Some ancient border-gathering song." But even this stronghold of British influence was destined to be invaded by the sturdy immigrants from the United States A young settler named Henry Williamson was one of the earliest Americans to brave the wrath of the Hudson's Bay Company by staking out a claim upon the present site ¦of Vancouver. This venturesome home-builder had emigrated from the State of Indiana, and upon leaving home he had placed a ring upon the finger of a fair damsel who promised to remain true to her gallant knight-errant during his wander ings in the West. After choosing a dwelling place in some pleasant vale on the Pacific coast, he was to return to take hither his plighted bride. Impelled by such high hopes as these, this bold pioneer scaled the rugged mountain peaks and -crossed the burning desserts, until he paused one glorious morning upon the banks of the majestic river of the West. "With a lightsome ballad on his lips, and music in his heart ¦sweeter than the blithe carol of the birds among the leafy branches - he began the task, of building, a home in this vast -wilderness. To a French-Canadian boating song * wafted to him from a party of voyageurs gliding down the stream, he fitted the words of his own heart — words resonant with hop© and love- OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 55 THE YOUNG SETTLER'S LOVE SONG Loud rings the axe of the woodsman brave, In his forest-home by Columbia's wave, On this chosen spot he builds his cot, With logs from the evergreen tree. Hewn with thoughts of thee, Mary, Hewn with thoughts of thee. Blithe is the lay of the settler free, Resounding o'er river and lea, At his daily toil on the virgin soil, 'Neath the shade of the evergreen tree, He sings of love and thee, Mary, He sings of love and thee. Here will we dwell in Columbia's vale, And sing with the birds in this happy dale; — In deep forest glade, 'mid the fir's kind shade, 'Mong the boughs of the evergreen tree, I dream of love and thee, Mary, I dream of love and thee." Despite the numerous obstacles thrown in his way by the British, he erected his log cabin and made a small clearing in the wilderness. At length all was ready for the coming of the bride and our youthful pioneer journeyed all the way back to the Hoosier state only to find that the form which he longed to clasp to his breast had lain for months within the tomb. The bright hopes which had lured his eager feet across the dreary plain were not less illusive than the mirage or phantom lake toward which he vainly hastened to quench his parching thirst. The broken-hearted lover retraced his weary foot steps back to his forest home. But it no longer possessed any charms for him.' He wandered about aimlessly until he joined the Argonauts of '49, and was finally lost to our view among the gold fields of California. The next American to invade this region was Amos M. Short, who came here with his family in 1845. This intrepid settler and his faithful wife, Esther Short, were true types of 56 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS the pioneer yeomanry of the Northwest. They were coldly received by the officials of the fur trading company, who refused to sell them either food or clothing so long as they persisted in their intention of erecting their home altar here as citizens of the great Republic. To those who came as neu trals, these "King George Men" were the best of friends; to those who came as American citizens, they were the bitterest of enemies Undeterred by this spirit of hostility, the newcomers staked out their claim and erected their humble log cabin. While the husband was cutting the rails for a fence around their little clearing the wife overhauled the spinning wheel and was soon busily engaged spinning the wool for their home made garments. Through the open doorway she could hear the ring of her husband's axe and the sweet warblings of the birds among the trees. The broad Columbia rolled in majesty at her feet; in the distance that sentinel mountain, Hood, matched his snow-crowned head against the fleecy whiteness of the clouds. In tune to the grand scene about her, and in time to the whirling of her spindle, her heart burst forth into involuntary song. It was a song such as pioneer women were wont to sing as they went about their daily tasks. Into it were carelessly woven scenes and events of every-day life. In it were blended the gay measure of some sprightly ballad and the solemn notes of a religious hymn ; now free and wild as the swollen current of Burnt Bridge Creek as it tore away the dam by Priedmore's old mill — now soft and low as that same stream's gentlest murmer when soothed by summer's shallow flow. SONG OF THE PIONEER HOUSE-WIFE We'll build us a home 'mid the forest wild, Where sweeps the broad river, so clear and so mild: Where blooms the wild rose by Columbia's main, And savages roam o'er the boundless plain; While 'round our cot the tall firs sigh, And redmen raise their fierce war-cry. . Bold forest- Amazons are we — True help-mates of pioneer-yeomanry; . - • OF NORTHWEST 1FSTORY 57 With husbands we work in solitudes wild Fight savage or wild cat to protect our child; We help hew logs for frontier roof-tree, And raise in the West the flag of the free. What though the Red-coats lay claim to this land ; And madly molest us with fire and brand Or threaten to drive us from hearth and from home — From this favored place they'll ne'er make us roam; We'll firmly protect sacred rights and roof-tree, And win this fair land for flag of the free ! But the Hudson's Bay Company was not content with the mere withholding of supplies from this American settler. They tried to discourage him by sending parties of their em ployees to pull down his fences, and commit other like depre* dations. On one occasion when Mr. Short had gone to the American settlement at Oregon City to purchase needed sup plies, a party of the company's employees placed Mrs. Short and her children upon a batteau which they then pushed adrift into the current of the Columbia with but a single oar on board. It was only by the utmost skill and exertion that the poor mother was enabled to paddle the cumbersome craft to the shore and save herself and the children from their per ilous position. Upon his return, Mr. Short announced his firm determina tion to defend his hearth and home at all hazards. So when the next crowd attempted to pull down his fence, he loaded his rifle and fired upon them, killing an officer and a servant of the company. For this deed, committeed in defense of his, home, Mr. Short was arrested and taken before Justice Petrain, father of C. A. Petrain, now a prominent attorney of Portland! After an examination, Mr. Short was taken to Oregon City to be tried by Judge Lancaster, of the Oregon provisional gov ernment He was, however, finally released without trial. During the enforced absence of the home-builder the Brit ish prepared to renew their work of destruction. A small squad of men were sent out under the lead of a French-Can adian named FiCeatte, with the instructions to continue the tearing down of the pioneer's rail fence. FiCeatte was ari act-"' 58 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS venturous courier-de-bois who had been in the employ of the company for many years. Under British command he had roamed the Western wilds from Montreal to Fort Vancouver. He therefore represented the aggressive spirit and prowess of Great Britain as truly as did those redcoats who were so badly beaten by John Stark and his "Green Mountain" boys at Benning+on. Moreover, he was sent out by Gevernor Ogden, the son of a British tory who had been driven to Halifax by the patriots of the Revolution. When Esther Short saw this little army approaching her castle she became as indignant as did the Boston school boys when the redcoats under Gen eral Gage interfered with their games by breaking up the ice on Boston Common. Like those free-spirited lads, she felt that she had suffered from British cruelty long enough. Like them, also, she was determined to bear their ts'ranny no longer. So just as FiCeatte put his hands upon the topmost rail and began to wrench it from its place, by a deft swing of her arm she struck him with the palm of her hand a stinging blow across the cheek. Before he realized it, the astonished fur- trapper was lying on the green-sward at his conqueror's feet. As soon as he could gather himself together the abashed French-Canadian beat a hasty retreat to the fort, where he gave the commandant, Governor Peter Ogden, a graphic ac count of his disastrous encounter. During the recital of his trusty courier-de-bois who had never be fore suffered defeat, the sides of the gallant Governor fairly shook with laughter. At its conclusion, with a merry twinkle in his eye, he sagely remarked : "I guess we had better give it up ; we can never hope to win against such brave women as that." And Mr. FiCeatte himself, who still resides at Vancouver at the ripe age of eighty-five, laughs heartily when he tells the story of his humiliating defeat. Governor Ogden was a brave, generous-hearted man, to whom a petty- war-fare against settlers, and their. wives was extremely distasteful. This incident taught him that the in coming tide of American yeomanry would maintain their rights with all the bravery of their forefathers. He was wise enough to foresee that, a struggle against such a band of de termined men and women could have but one result. He was OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 59 candid enough to admit his defeat, and withdraw gracefully from the contest. The salutary lesson taught by this sturdy American mat ron was most wholesome in its effect. She did not ride forth to battle, like Joan of Arc, encased in shining breastplate of steel. She was panoplied only in the armor of her own right eousness Other weapon had she none, save her good right arm and the sublime justice of her cause. Her victory loses none of its grandeur because unaccompanied by the roar of artillery, the flash of sabers, or the cheers of victorious legions. Her army was the brood of children at her knee; her banners, the foliage of evergreen trees waving in the breeze overhead. Standing with uplifted hand amid the rich wildflowers and the swaying grass, the rough log cabin behind her, the rude rail fence before, she presents as impressive a picture as that engraved by our forefathers upon the storied bridge at Con cord. Vancouver's coat-of-arms consists of a picture of Mount Hood, with the Columbia River in the foreground. This scene may be claimed in common by other towns in this neigh borhood, and commemorates no achievements of America's heroes Would it not be more appropriate to change this for one representing our Joan .of Arc in the act of defying and putting to flight the hirelings of Great Britain's wealth and prowess? This would continually remind us that the pioneer women of the Northwest displayed the same hero ism as did their grandmothers in the days of Betsy Ross, Bessie McNeal and Molly Pitcher. Then, in years to come, some fair reader of this humble narrative, as she sits by the evening fire with her grandchildren on her knee, will relate to the listening little one a tradition not less inspiring than "Grandfather's Tale of Yorktown" — The thrilling story of Esther Short and her victory over the British Redcoats. •JJQTE—rY ears ago, one of the writer's greatest Jpys was the annual visit to his grandparent's old log cabin, ; on- the bariksS-of tW-Columbia. near St Helens, Oregon. In the evening grandmother would bring her spinning wheel to the fireside, where she would sing and spin. Her songs consisted of a rude blending of patriotism, religion and romance. Priedmore's old mil! on Burnt Bridge Creek was built by one of the early French-Canadian trappers. Portions of the sills still remain. 60 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS It may of interest to the admirers of Walter Scott to know that Sir James Douglas, one of the bravest bearing the dreaded Douglas name, was for a time the commandant at Fort Vancouver. Our heroine, Esther Short, was the true founder of Vancouver. She laid out and platted the town, dedicating the City water front and the park to the people forever. The park should be named Esther Square in her honor. Miss Esther Short, a worthy granddaughter of our pioneer heroine, resides at Washougal, and is among the most respected, useful, and patriotic school teachers of Clarke County. PIONEER WITNESS TREE (This tree has been washed away by the high water, but it is proposed to plant a slip of the parent tree on the very spot where the old tree stood.) OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 61 A PIONEER WITNESS TREE. (Written in 1898) Of all the gifts of nature few are more beneficent, bounti ful or beautiful than the forest tree. It not only enriches mankind, but adorns the landscape as well. It absorbs many poisonous gases and purifies the surrounding atmosphere. It cleanses the air that loiters to play among its branches, and sends it, loaded with fragrance and sweetness, on its joyous way. Its graceful foliage shelters the nesting birds, while it lends a charm to their sweetest songs. As the loveliest of feins and mosses thrive within our shady groves, so many of our most glorious traditions are in separably associated with the tree of the forest. The tree is the natural friend of freedom. Tyranny, corruption and im purity need never expect a home in the forest. Their tainted and deformed imps would be bereft of all power by the purity and freshness of the breeze that rustles through the scented grove, and stifled by the wild sweetness of the woodland melodies. It was in complete harmony with nature's plan for William Penn to conclude his treaty of peace with the Indians beneath the kindly shade of a forest monarch, and for Wadsworth to entrust the Charter of Connecticut's Liberty to the constant heart of a stout old oak. At the foot of Main Street in the City of Vancouver, Washington, may be seen a large cottonwood tree, which has an honored place in the early chronicles of our common wealth. It has boldly reared its crest just upon the bank of the broad. Columbia, and its antlered branches stand out in clear relief against that silvery stream. In the records of Clarke County this aged giant is officially known by the poetic name of a "Balm of Gilead" tree, a name that seems to light up that musty account of the deeds of the "rude forefathers of the hamlet" with the soft glow of poetry and romance. During the present century this forest monarch has beheld many strange vicissitudes. From its foot the savage tribes 62 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS embarked in their canoes on many a war-like expedition; the voyageurs of the Hudson's Bay Company moored their bat- teaus near its roots when they came to establish a trading post here in 1824; while the humble American settler landed be neath its protecting shade when he came to battle with the British for the possession of the soil. From 1840 to 1850 that powerful organization, the Hud son's Bay Company, exerted its utmost influence to deter citi zens of the United States from settling on land north of the Columbia River. The officials of this despotic company suc ceeded in driving away all American settlers until the arrival of the dauntless pioneer, Amos M. Short and his brave wife, Esther Short. Ignoring all the insolent threats of the British, Mr. Short proceeded to erect his log cabin, and stake out his donation land claim, selecting the magnificent Balm of Gilead as his witness tree and point of beginning. This tree thus stood on the border-land between two contending powers, and marked the boundary of the British company's possessions from the land of the American pioneer. But it was far more than a mere land-mark. It marked "the point of beginning" to active resistance from the Ameri cans to the haughty aggression of the British. From the moment that Amos Short sunk his gleaming axe into that noble cottonwood and marked its trunk with the blaze of liberty, the power of the British steadily declined. That act dedicate 1 the tree and the surrounding region to the cause of freedom The bold yeoman had taken up nis claim in con formity to the land laws of the United States, and in defend ing his property ht was upholding the honor and dignity of his country's emblem. He maintained his rights with all the bravery of an American citizen. When the Hudson's Bay Company sent a party of men to drive him away from his home, he took down his musket and went forth to meet them. After fair warning, he fired upon them, killing an officer and a servant of the company, while the others retreated in utter dismay. After a few more attempts to dislodge him, the British desisted, leaving him to occupy his land in peace. Other settlers came pouring in, and the entire region was soon in undisputed possession of the Americans. OF NORTHWEST FFSTORY 63 In the dusty, time-stained chronicles in the U. S. Land office tho description of this pioneer's homestead is recorded in the customary legal style, as follows: "Beginning at a large Balm of Gilead tree on the north bank of the Columbia River and running thence," etc. From that Balm of Gilead liberty's lines have been ex tended iii all directions, until the broad principles of American Freedom and Justice now enfold this entire commonwealth within their kindly grasp ; for the Tree of Liberty is not a dwarfed shrub growing upon Tyranny's blasted heath but a noble giant. And the blaze of Freedom which the settler cut upon its trunk has broadened and deepened with age. This historic witness tree still stands upon the bank of the storied Columbia, the warm sap flowing freely through its lusty vems. Its rich green leaves are as bright and fresh as the principles of eternal justice ; its soft, snowy bloom not less spotless than the sacred cause of Truth and Right. May it long thrive — a living memorial of the past — a venerable title-deed of American industry, courage and glory ! Foot notes: — The Indian name for cottonwood tree was "Wauko- mah", which is the name of a neighborhood a few miles from Vancouver. 64 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS YOUNG GRANT AT FORT VANCOUVER. (Written in 1914.) In 1852 and '53, following his experiences in the Mexican War, Lieutenant U. S. Grant was stationed at Fort Vancouver, to assist in guarding this frontier region from Indian out breaks. With brother officers, he was quartered in a large log-house, which, with its old fire-place and rough-hewn logs still remains, tho it has been boarded over and painted so that but few of the logs are discernible. It is now used as the officers' club house, and is sometimes styled "Grant's Head quarters", but the term is misleading in view of the fact that Grant was not the post-commander, but only a subaltern, when he dwelt in this old log-house. Yes, here dwelt Grant when life was young, His brother officers among; They talked and studied, jested and sang, — These rough log-walls with laughter rang. Tho these brave comrades have passed away, The old fire-place remains today, And its bright blaze with cheerful glow, Reflects those days of long ago. He flirted, 'tis said, with Indian lass, The bright-eyed Mary Looking-glass; And oft he turned from Columbia's main, And rode six miles to old Fourth-Plain, Thru forest- trails of Washington, To sing with Dolly Covington; And oft sat silent, still as a mouse, By the bright fire-place in this old log-house. He here pondered o'er his future fame, And planned his fights in war's rough game; Here grew thoughts that brought victory, And made this Nation great and free; — This frontier fort to Vicksburg spread, Vancouver to Appomattox led; — While we of Shiloh and Donelson boast, To this old log-house let's drink a toast! GRANT'S OLD LOG QUARTERS. ANOTHER VIEW OF GRANTS QUARTERS OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 65 HANK PEARSON'S RIDE (Written in 1898) THEME ....At the beginning of the Indian uprising under Chiefs Kamiakin and Kanaskct, in November of i860, Governor Stevens was near Fort Benton, Montana, attending the Blackfoot council. As the people needed their gallant leader' in this great emergency, Hank Pearson volunteered to hasten onward with the dispatch. His course lead him throught flve hundred miles of hostile land filled with lurking savages, and over rough snow-covered mountains. ¦When one horse was worn out he jumped upon another and pressed on ¦without pausing for rest. When he reached his destination his clothes -were frozen stiff to his body and he was so weak withal that he had to be lifted from the horse and carried into the house. Pearson lived at Vancouver, and was widely known for his expert horsemanship, having served as a courier on many occasions. While this dangerous ride did not result in the rider's instant death, as related in the verse, it greatly hastened his untimely end; and the etory of his heroic self-sacrifice remains a poetic truth. - Among the famous riders of history none are more thrilling than this, and it is rendered doubly precious by its associations with th# name of ¦ our heroic Governor, Isaac I. Stevens. ' A COURIER OF THE WEST "Heaven's cherubin, horsed upon the sightless couriers of the air. Shall blow the horid deed in every eye.' THE WARNING. Around the firesides of the West lingers this tale of a hero brave, "Who breathed his last in storied past, while striving human life to save. During the fall of '55 on a dark and stormy night, Adown the swift Columbia, like an eagle in its flight, Darted the light canoe of friendly Indian Jack To warn the people of Vancouver of dreaded ni^h* attack. The startled villagers for self-defense prepared, Then called for a volunteer, for one ^vho freely dared To carry the news to Stevens, about the yar alt hand, Through five hundred l°n?ty W\fk W!*9F? *u*ked ^e sava?e band. Then rose that gallant yeoman, Hanjj Pearson, bpld, and strong And started^ on that 'mountain rid^ |p dangerous ai$I long. Not his the classic 'lace, 'not Ijis t|§*rythnj^e*|j|i^ 66 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS That sculptor on marble loves to trace, or minstrel softly gives to fame. But fitter for him by far, is granite's rude, enduring heart, And sweeter rings his name afar, when comrade sings his noble part. THE RIDE Fast he rode by Columbia's stream, Guided by day-star or moon's pale beam; By day and night he hastened on, Passing Celilo, whence had gone All the braves of the fishing village, The last to leave for war's rude pillage. As he neared Walla Walla's lovely vale. He spied a ploughman in the dale; Telling his tale so fierce and new, He asked for a horse to carry him through. "Take 'Antelope,' a steed more true Ne'er from the meadow dashed the dew." Springing upon the gallant black, He breathed his name, the rein held slack; Forward flew the quivering steed, Straining his limbs to their utmost speed. Not faster the startled deer is borne When soundeth anear the huntsman's horn; Not surer flies the unerring dart Seeking its rest in that trembling heart. Leaving behind Walla Walla's plain, He dashed on through the Coer d'Alene. THE ARRIVAL AND THE PASSING. So without pause by night or day, He rode until one morning gray, Spattered with variation of every ground, That 'twixt The Dalles and Benton is found, He was lifted tenderly from the back" Of the gallant but all breathless black; And was carried in through the open door Straight to the side of our war governor, Then striving to rise, bold Pearson spoke — OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 67 Though his words by frequent gasps were broke— "Kamiakin and fierce Kanasket Have raised on high the bloody hatchet ; For their leader's return, your people pray, Make haste, brave Stevens, haste away!" In the arms of friends, his last words said, The messenger falls with drooping head; His eyelids close, his deeds are o'er, The courier will ride on steeds no more. Softly our Roman his orders told: ' ' Keep tender vigils o 'er hero bold ; My people are calling, I hasten on. I'd pause not now for my own dear son." Stevens sped on to reach Hell Gate, Where Spotted Eagle impatient did wait To safely guide the Governor, 0 'er mountain path to seat of war ; Where he led his men in gallant fight, Till peac>. soon followed the war's dark night. A CLOSING STRAIN. Still by +he hearth-stones of the West Lingers this tale of a hero brave, Who breathed his last in storied past While striving human life to save. Still whisper gray sires 'round hearths at home, That sometimes in the weird moonlight, A phantom rider on horse afoam, Comes and vanishes in the night ; A sign that once more in time of need, He will ride, as of yore, his gallant steed. The tale is told, the hearth is cold, But the heart throbs warm for the hero bold; And ever may his memory last While hearts are thrilled by tales of the past. "For whether on the scaffold high, Or in the battle's van, The fittest place for man to die, Is where he dies for man." 68 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS m — FOOTNOTES. My people are calling, I hasten on, I'd pause not now for my own dear son." "Stevens sped on to reach Hell Gate, Where Spotted Eagle impatient did wait." In describing the death of General Stevens, the New York Tribun* «f September 5, 1862, says: "A moment after Stevens seized the colors, his son ±iazzard fell wounded, and cried to his father that he was hurt. "With a glance backward, that Roman father said, 'I can't attend you now, Hazzard; Corporal Thompson, see to my boy.' "' That was his last farewell; a few minutes afterwards he lay cold and still on the field of Chantilly, his fingers still clasping, like bands of steel, the flag he loved so well. The Nez Perce chiefs, Spotted Eagle and Three Feathers, with seventy followers, acted as bodyguard for Governor Stevens on bis perilous return. Spotted Eagle and his band proved faithful to the whites through out the war,, and fought gallantly with them in several engagements. OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 69 THE CASTLE ON THE PLAINS Written in 1897. It is hard to believe that, but a generation ago, Clarke County was on the very verge of the Northwest frontier, and as an outpost of American civilization was continually beset by all the dangers and trials of a border community. In these quiet, "piping days of peace," we hear little of those troub lous times, when the hurrying messenager would draw rein be fore the cabin of some lone frontiersman to tell him of the latest Indian massacre, and then dash on to warn other re mote settlements. At such a time there was as surely as much need of haste as when the messenger of Rhoderick Dhue was dispatched to carry the signal for the gathering of the clan. Whether the courier was a white settler riding a cayuse pony or a friendly Indian runner, his feet clad in moccasins orna mented with beads glistening like dew in the morning sun, the words of Walter Scott come unbidden to the lips ; "Speed, Malise, speed; the dun deer's hide On fleeter foot was never tied!" As the Scottish clansmen quickly gathered at Clanrick jifead, so did the frontiersmen of this county hastily meet at some central locality to prepare for the defense of their fami lies. In time of great stress, the home builders quickly be came home-defenders. While we read thrilling tales of border warfare in Scotland, we are scarcely aware of the stirring scenes which have been enacted in our own neighborhood. It was quite by an accident that the writer first heard of the old fort at Fourth Plain. When the news of the Indian depredations reached the settlers of Fourth Plain, early in 1856, they determined not to flee to town for protection, but to erect a stockade near their own. homes. Trees were felled and the logs were hauled to a small hil' on the place of Mr. Geer, where it had been decided the castle should be built. The fort consisted of a stockade about sixteen feet high, enclosing about au acre of ground 70 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS and was surrounded by a small trench. Within the enclosure and against the walls of the fort, a dozen or more log cabins were built, leaving quite an open space in the center. This open court served as a drilling place for the embattled farm ers, as well as a play ground for the children. To this castle the freeholders of the Plain came with their families when they heard of the attack of the Indians upon the Cascade blockhouse, in March, 1856, and within these friendly battlements they remained until July. Their com mander was Captain Richard Covington, who drew quite a good nicture of Fort Vancouver in 1855. Tradition has it that Mr. Covington possessed the first organ ever brought into Clarke County, and was wont to en tertain his guests by playing upon the violin, while his wife accompanied him on the organ. It is said that one of their most frequent visitors in 1853 was Lieut. U. S. Grant, who thought naught of the six-mile ride on the lonely trail that led from Vancouver to the Plain. Among the settlers who brought their families to the fort for protection were Walter Maybray, John and Charles Byrd, Valentine, John and Jacob Proebstel, Richard McCary, John Bersch and Thomas Nerton. Sentries kept watch by night, and sometimes scouting parties were sent out to keep the In dians at a distance. In the morning the settlers went forth to work, carrying their rifles upon their shoulders. Though no attack was made upon them, the yeomanry of the Plain showed that they possessed the courage to defend their homes and were equal to any emergency. Instead of being the scene of bloodshed and death, the fort was a place of life and birth, for there Henry Bersch was born, June 11, 1856. After the people had returned to their homes, a term of school was taught at the fort, and it was also used as a place for religious services. Thus, within those walls which it was feared would resound with the war-whoop of the Redmen, the yeomanry and their families united in singing the sweet songs of Zion; while from those battlements, erected as a de fense against a savage foe arose the supplications of His peo- OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 71 pie to the great Jehovah, imploring divine protection against their moi:t insidious foe, the common enemy of man. The fort and buildings are now completely obliterated and have become only a dim tradition of the past. The land once occupied by this grim monument of war is now covered with flourishing fruit trees. This is another virtual fulfillment of that beautiful prophecy: "Their spears shall be fashioned into plougshares and their swords into pruning hooks." 72 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS SHERIDAN'S FIRST BATTLE-RIDE Phil Sheridan was the greatest and most famous cavalry leader in American history, but the story of his glorious career is not confined to his stirring achievements in the Civil War. His first battle-ride was made, not on the back of a coal-black charger, but on the deck of a sturdy steamboat up the Columbia River from Port Vancouver, and his unblemished knightly fame is inseparably associated with Vancouver and Northwest History. In the spring of 1856, Lieutenant Sheridan, then a gallant youth of 25, was stationed at Fort Vancouver, when after midnight on March 27th, word was brought by a friendly Indian-runnei that the settlers and their families had been attacked by a large band of Indians at the Cascade blockhouse, and would soon be overcome and murdered. Quick ly gathering about forty dragoons and volunteer settlers, at two o'clock in the morning, Sheridan jumped upon the steamer Belle and dashed to the rescue; and after a bloody and brilliant combat, saved the lives of the beseiged settlers and soldiers. Captain Robert Williams, for many years a beloved citizen of Vancouver, was among the brave defenders of the blockhouse and delighted to tell the story of Little Phil's baptism of fire. From Fort Vancouver rode Sheridan, To the rescue of woman, child and man, Who, beseiged in the blockhouse at Cascade, Sent friendly "Eagle Wing" for aid. On deck of a noble boat rode he, On that bloody day in our history. A motley crew formed his company, Troopers, trappers and frontier-yeomanry, Rode on the Belle by Little Phil's side, On fair Columbia's majestic tide; Fast flew the boat thru the foaming spray, With Sheridan forty miles away! 0, how the bullets and arrows did pour, As the boat approached the Cascade's shore! And how Phil and his troopers rushed pell-mell "O 'er the gang-plank of the steamer Belle ! The savages scattered far and wide, And fathers kissed children, and bridegroom kissed bride. CASCADE BLOCKHOUSE OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 73 Still old pioneers with rapture tell How half a tribe on that day fell, As Little Phil led his gallant charge, From blood-stained deck of that brave barge; And the Indians fled in wild dismay, With Sheridan forty feet away ! Then, hurrah, hurrah, for Sheridan! Hurrah, hurrah, for boat and man! Hurrah for the soldiers and settlers brave, Who fought, loved women and children to save! And a ' ' Tiger ' ' add for those days ot old, When women were true and men were bold! 74 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS AN OLD JACKSONIAN DEMOCRAT (Written in 1910.) In these happy, piping days of '"Insurgency" and "New Nationalism" it is somewhat refreshing to hear of a real old- fashioned Jacksonian Democrat, such as flourished in the youthful period of our Republic. One of those now rare char acters, a survival of those early, rugged days is still with us in Clarke County and is before the voters as a candidate on the Democratic ticket this fall. We allude to that sturdy, stalwart Democrat of the old school. Capt. A. L. Coffee, Democratic nominee for state representative. As a good Republican, the writer cannot support Mr. Coffee's candidacy, but we consider this old Democratic war-horse "good copy", and we know our readers will be pleased to hear about him at this time. So we present him as a living reminder of these early days. Capt. Coffee is by birth and breeling a genuine, unadult erated Jacksonian Democrat. He was born in the sunny South in 1831, nearly eighty years ago, during the first admin istration of his patron saint, President Andrew Jackson, canon ized by he faithful as "Old Hickory." He has lived through the eventful administration of Jackson, Van Buren, "Tippe canoe" Harrison, Tyler, Polk, Taylor, Fillmore, Pierce, Buch anan, Lincoln, Johnson, Grant, Hayes, Garfield, Arthur, Cleve land, Ben Harrison, McKinley, Roosevelt, "The Strenous", and is now basking in the sunny smile of big Bill Taft. He has seen presidents, cabinets and congresses come and go; he has witnessed glory-crowned generals, dignified dames, stately statesmen, prominent politicians and powerful parties pass on and fade away into the dim obscurity of the past. He has listened to the inspiring eloquence of John Quincy Adams, Clay, Calhoun, Hayne, Webster, Corwin, Giddings, Sumner and Seward and has knelt at the sacred political shrine of Jackson, Tom Benton, Sam Houston and Steve Douglas. During his life-time this struggling Republic has developed into one of OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 75 the great nations of the earth and its former domains, with their indefinite boundaries, have grown to imperial propor tions and have been extended from ocean to ocean. And Mr. Coffee has taken his part in this historic move ment. When a young man of 21 he came "across the plains" to the great Northwest and settled in Clarke County, Wash ington, where he has lived most of the time ever since. At the beginning of the Indian war in 1855 he enlisted in the Washington Territory Volunteers and served under that in trepid pioneer and Indian-fighter, Col. B. F. Shaw. This gal lant regiment waged an extremely active and vigorous cam paign. Its fields of operation extended to both sides of the Cascade Mountains and took in Oregon as well as Washington. These hardy frontiersmen and pioneer-yeomanry fought doz ens of bloody battles and skirmishes, and chased the savages over hundreds of miles of rugged mountains and desert plains. Within a year's time they conquered peace for the greater part of two large commonwealths. Mr. Coffee was a member of Capt Strong's Clarke County Rangers, a detachment of which had the famous encounter with the Indians at Battle Ground, near Vancouver; being on duty elsewhere, he did not participate in that stirring encounter, but his twin brother, A. T. Coffee, who still resides at Washougal, was present at that historic occasion. Since those war-like times Capt. Coflee has devoted him self to the peaceful development of this state, serving two terms as Sheriff of Clarke County in the frontier days. He resides a+ Camas, tho he is also interested in large wheat fields east of the mountains. He and the writer's father were "tillicums" or close friends for nearly half a century, and he has always been esteemed as a helpful neighbor and a patriotic citizen. He is very tenacious in upholding the timehonored principles of Jacksonian Democracy and loves to recall the bit ter struggle waged by Jackson, Benton and others against the powerful United States Bank; and the other half forgotten political political fights of those stirring times. He remembers "Tippecanoe and Tyler too" and the "Log-cabin hard-cider" campaign of 1840. But through all the political changes for lo, these many years, he has proved faithful to the Democratic 76 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS party and remained unshaken in his support His steadfast faith and his unselfish, unfaltering fealty evoke our surprise and admiration, and we join in respect and reverence for this old pioneer Indian-fighter and sturdy Jacksonian Democrat, who is left among us as a living reminder of the rough frontier period and the rugged days of ''Old Hickory" and Jacksonian ascendency. COL. B. F. SHAW. THE HERO OF GRAND RONDE (From a picture taken many years after the war by Major Lee Moorerouse of Pendle'on, Oregon, showing the famous Indian fighter in his old uniform and with his old battle sword.) OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 77 A WESTERN CROMWELL Written in 1897 All students of history have read of that dramatic geene •when Oliver Cromwell, England's great protector, at the head of his invincible "Ironsides" marched down the great hall where the "long parliament" was in session and dismissed that dignified assemblage. An event somewhat similar to this was enacted amid the primeval forests of the Teritory of Washington more than forty years ago. In 1856 the pioneers of Washington were engaged in a bloody border warfare against the savage tribes. Governor Stevens had appointed Col. B- F. Shaw, a gallant frontiersman and Indian fighter, to the command of the volunteer militia. Several French-Canadian fur-trappers, who were charged with having given "aid and comfort to the enemy," had been cap tured and placed under a military guard at Fort Steilacpom. In order to keep these prisoners from the civil authorities* Governor Stevens proclaimed martial law over Pierce and Thurston Counties. At this time Edward Lander was chief Justice of the territory, haying been appointed by President franklin Pierce Judge Lander was an upright, dignified, Jeffersoniari democrat of the "old school." The declaration of* martial law had aroused the indignation of the worthy jurist, and he proceeded to open the spring session of the district court of Pierce cloudy at Fdrtf Steilacoota/'v#thvthe ihtehtion of inffiepnk j#t" punish ment upfcn those who hacl sbbwri contempt forth6 id&jesXf of the. law aa.represented.Hi, his own aupfuta p^rsdh#g%..'W'was also stiSjM^ed that a wrii of habeas corpus we-ipa" 'Eey^&ueif, ordering ' the mihtary authorities to give xip the' prisoners %£ trial* byf ttfe civil 'courts*. 'This act Gdvern'or Stevens was de termined t"6 prevent. Whetf «he* day da#*ied "upon which the c•;) vt place to the term of "Fighting Parson," for he went to the f^ont during the Spanish War as Chaplain of the Wash ington Regiment and gave up his life while serving the flag of his country in Manila, Philippine Islands. CAPTAIN ROBERT WILLIAMS. Robert Williams was a noble type of soldier and citizen and played an important part in the history of this region. He was born in the northern part of Wales, England, May 13, 1834, and came to America in 1846, living for awhile with his •uncle at Lancaster, Pennsylvania. He always evinced a great love for military life, and this, combined with a romantic dis position, led him to enlist in the United States Army on Febru ary 28, 1855, at Philadelphia. With a detachment of 150 re cruits he wa"s sent by way of Panama, to Fort Vancouver, where he arrived on June 7, 1855. He was attached to Com pany H, Fourth U. S. Infantry, the same company in which Lieutenants IT. S. Grant and P. H. Sheridan served when sta tioned at this historic frontier post. The first engagement in which Mr. Williams participated in was in a hot fight in the fall of. that year at Cascade Gap, where Colonel Nesmith and Major Rains defeated the Indians; In March, 1856, with a small band of soldiers and settlers, he OF NORTHWEST HISTOPY 13? aided in the successful defense of the blockhouse at the middle Cascades, against an overwhelming force of savages. For this act of unsurpassed bravery, he and his comrades were officially thanked by the Washington Legislature, being mentioned by name in the resolution. Mr. Williams was honorably dis charged from the army in 1860, but at the begginning of the- Rebellion he re-enlisted in the First Iowa Infantry, April 22, 1861. He participated in the battles of Wilson's Creek, Fort Donelson. Shiloh, Jackson, Vicksburg, Tupelo, and other en gagements, being taken prisoner at Shiloh; and for six months he suffered the indescribable hardships and privations of Libby Prison, until finally paroled. He was promoted to Sec ond Lieutenant, First Lieutenant and Captain, commanding his company of veterans during the last year of the Civil War. At the close of the war Captain Williams retired to his farm, but after a few years, he again enlisted in the U. S. Army and was again stationed at Fort Vancouver, this time for nearly twenty consecutive years. He was retired from the army in 1896, after thirty years of honorable and meritor ious service, receiving medals of honor and his gallant deeds being mentioned in general orders. Captain Williams con tinued to reside at Vancouver until his death a few months ago; he was the first honorary member of the local camp of Spanish War Veterans, who acted as a Guard of Honor at the hero's funeral. The author of this little book knew Captain Williams well for a quarter of a century, and always regarded him with dep admiration and aflection. JOSEPH SMITH BRANT. This early settler of Vancouver was bom in Germany in 1822, and came to the United States at the age of six years; was a wygon and carriage builder by trade. He was married to Louisa Francis Burget at Dayton, Ohio, from which place they crossed the plains in 1852, and took up a Donation Land Claim on the Lewis or Cathlapoodle River, in Clarke County, Washington. They moved to Vancouver during the Indian troubles of 1855, and made that place their permanent resi dence. Mr. Brant erected a large building on Main Street, which was for a long time the best hotel in Vancouver; also a hall 134 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS for theatre and dances. He conducted a carriage-shop and livery stable and was for many years Justice of the Peace. He died in 1872 ; his wife, who was born in 1828, died in 1890. They had thirteen children : Louis P., now a Major in the U. S. Army; George W., now a resident of Portland, Oregon; Rosanna. (deceased) ; Joseph A. O, foreman of The Oregon, Portland; Mary A. C. ; Adeline F. ; Rosetta A.; Emma L. Al bert, (deceased) ; A. O, (deceased) ; Cecilia C., Nellie, (de ceased) ; Charles and Elizabeth. The block where the old home-place stood is now the most prominent one i nthe city, being occupied by the five-story U. S. National Bank, Palace Theater. Spark's Hardware Store, etc. ROBERT W. DOWNING. R W Downing, one of the few surviving Indian-war vet erans lefl in Clarke County, was born in England, in 1838, and came to the United States with his parents when nine years of age. In 1857 he crossed the plains to the California gold mines, and as a member of a government exploring expedition traversed Arizona and New Mexico in 1859 ; he first came to Vancouver in 1860. Mr. Downing enlisted in the Union Armv in 1861 and was wounded at the battle of Gettysburg: in November, 1863, he re-enlisted in the First Oregon Cavalry and campaigned against the Indians in Oregon, Nevada and Washington, being mustered out of the service in 1866. He returned to Vancou ver in 1866 and has resided here ever since, engaging in busi ness as carpenter and contractor. Mr. Downing is the owner of the Downing Block on Washington Street and has retired from act.'ve labor. JUDGE WILLIAM RANCK William Ranck was born in Butler County, Pennsylvania, July 30. 1829; he was of "Pennsylvania Dutch" stock, and of Revolutionary ancestry, his grandfather having been a soldier under Washington at Brandywin and Germantown. He came across the plains in a "prairie schooner" to the gold mines in California in 1852, and participated in the organization of the Republican party in that state, voting for "Fremont and Free dom" in 1856; he was afterwards one of the six men who or- OF NORTHWEST HTSTORY 135 r- ¦ ' ¦¦— — ¦ ganized the Republican party in Clarke County in 1860. He came to Vancouver in 1858 and established the pioneer wagon-making shop there, and planted one of the early prune orchards in Clarke County on his farm adjoinging Vancouver ; he also worked for some years as government wheel-wright at Fort Vancouver. He was Married to Kate Neer in Vancou ver in 1864, and had three childrden, Lulu, Bertha and Glenn. He was member of the City Council, Chief o fthe Fire Depart ment, School Director, Justice of the Peace, Representative in the Legislature, County Commissioner and Probate Judge for four terms. One of his monuments is the present court house, which was built while he was Chairman of the Board of County Commissioners. He was for fifty years a public-spir ited and ppatriotic citizen of Clarke County. GLENN N. RANCK. Glenn N. Ranck, the son of William and Kate Neer Ranck, was born in Vancouver, Washington, November 24, 1869 ; his maternal grandfather was also a pioneer of the Northwest and a veteran of the Mexican War, and some members of the family served in the Civil War and in the Indian campaigns of the Northwest frontier. He attended the public schools, worked on his father's ranch and particcipated in the govern ment survey of the Northeastern part of Clarke County, spend ing some time with the backwoodsmen of that frontier district ; also taught several terms in country schools and worked for several years as assistant to the City Engineer and the County Surveyor. He served as private, corporal and sergeant in Co. G, First Washington Volunteers during the Spanish War and in the Philippine Insurrection, sustaining a slight wound at Guadaloupe Ridge, and being in the military service for about eighteen months. After the war he conducted a general merchandise store at Camas and for several years was editor and publisher of the Vancouver Chronicle ; has served the people as Trustee Public Library, Clerk of the School Board, President Volunteer Fire Department, Chairman County Committee, Justice of the Peace, twice as Representative of his native county in the state legislature, and is at present Register United States Land 136 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS Office. He is the author of "Pictures from Northwest His tory." "Legends and Traditions of Northwest History," and other historical writings. Mr. Ranck is blessed with a happy home, an estimable wife, and two twin children, William and Winfred. He is among those who believe that wealth and commercial gain are not all there is to this life; that deep affection and friendship kind deeds and pleasant memories, and sentiment, song and poetry are, after all, what brings the warmth and glow to life, and "makes the world go round." LOWELL M. HIDDEN This well-known citizen was born in Craftsbury, Vermont, December 16, 1841, and went to San Francisco, California, by way of Panama, in the gold mining days of 1864. He came to Vancouver the following year, 1865, and has resided here ever since. In 1869 he returned to Vermont and was married to Mary S. Eastman, bringing her back to the new home in the West. Four children were born to them. W. Foster, Oliver M. ; Mabel Lucy ; and Julia. Mr Hidden has taken a prominent pai't in the develop ment of this city and served for a number of years on the City Council and also as County Commissioner. He has engaged in many enterprises in the city and county, but spent most of his time in the manufacture of brick and in farming. He is now Vice-President of the United States National Bank of Vancouver, but has retired from his general activities, and enjoys nothing better than a fishing trip to Four Lakes. His sons, who are among our enterprising citizens, have succeeded to his business. J. J. HENRICHSEN. J. J. Henrichsen, Vancouver's pioneer cabinet-maker, was born at Utland, Denmark, November 12, 1832, and learned his trade as an apprentice at Apperadee, Denmark. He served in the Danish army during the Schleswig-IIol stein War, in which Prussia took those provinces from Denmark; and during part of his military service he was stationed in the barracks in gay Copenhagen, near the palace of the King. He left his native country for the United States in 1858, OF NORTHWEST HTSTORY 137 and that same year came by sea to Vancouver, going ''around the Horn", as it was called when they came via Cape Horn. He established the pioneer cabinet-making shop in Vancouver in 1858, and also worked as cabinet-maker and cooper at the military post for several years. During the later part of his life he operated his ranch on Burnt Bridge Creek, adjoining Vancouver, spending his last days quietly at his home. Mr. Henrichsen was a man of quiet, retiring disposition, of an earnest, sincere, industrious character, and was one of Clarke County's useful and reliable citizens. He was mar ried to Hannah Christina Hansen, December 26, 1861, and had eight children, namely : Yetta, Neils, Christina May, Tobey L., Hannah, Lawson, Jens, and Elsie. His son, Tobey L. Henrichsen, was born in Vancouver, November 14, 1869, and educated in the public schools, work ing for some years at fruit-raising and at prune drying and prune packing ; he served for a while in the Washington Regi ment during the Spanish War, until discharged on urgent calls from home owing to the feeble health of his father. He has served several terms in the City Council and is a member of the firm of Higgins & Henrichsen, a leading grocery firm of Vancouver. JAMES PADDEN James Padden was born in County Mayo, Ireland and came by sea "around the Horn" to Vancouver about 1859. He took up a homestead a few miles from Vancouver, on which he lived until a few years before his death, when he resided for awhile in Vancouver. This homestead is still in possession of the family and is now operated by his son, Thomas Padden. Mr. Padden was a patriotic, industrious citizen, who did his share in the development of Clarke County and was the father of a worthy and respected family. His son, James J. Padden, is the proprietor of Padden 's Clothing Store, one of Vancouver's most prosperous and pro gressive business houses. He is a most progressive, public- spirited citizen and has been active on the Board of Managers for the Commercial Club, as Chief of the Volunteer Fire .De partment, member of the City Council, and is Past Exalted Buler of the Vancouver Lodge of Elks. 138 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS HON. J. W. BLACKBURN Tho still a comparatively young man, Mr. Blackburn, is Ridgefield 's pioneer merchant and postmaster, a position which he still holds. He has always taken a great interest in politi cal affairs, having represented Clarke County at many con gressional and state conventions, and is among our most ener getic and public spirited citizens. Mrs. Blackburn, who is an accomplished musician, has taken an active part in all social, religious and education affairs. During the Civil War Ridgefield was given the name of Union Ridge on account of the strong loyalty and love of the Union displayed by the patriotic citizens of that locality. The Post Office Department afterwards changed the name to Ridge field, but the change has wrought no alteration in the deep patriotism and loyalty of its citizens. JOHN K. GAITHER. Mr. Gaither, the present pioneer Postmaster of LaCenter, Clarke County, Washington, was born in Monroe Copnty, In diana, January 6, 1838, and came to Clarke County in 1873; he married Mary E. Gourley, who was born in North Carolina, November 19, 1835, by whom he had six children: P. T. Gaith er, born June 8, 1863; S. P. Gaither, born March 12, 1865; Sadie C. Gaither, born December 24, 1869; F. 0. Gaither, born February 22, 1873; W. T. Gaither, born April 6, 1875; J. C. Gaither, born May 13, 1880. Mr. Gaither was in the mercantile business at La Center for fifteen years and has been Postmaster there since 1875, with a brief intreval during Cleveland's second term, and he still fills that office faithfully and efficiently. His son, S. P. Gaither, was for two terms County Clerk of Clarke County. HON. A. A. QUARNBERG. Andrew A. Quarnberg, Clarke County's pioneer in the nut-growing industry, was born in Sweden, August 16, 1849; attended public school and Galun College until 1869, when he came to America with his parents, settling on a homestead in Dakota Territory. He was married to Lydia E. Norelius, Sep tember 17, 1876, and engaged in the hardware business until 1884, That year he was elected Register of Deeds and County OF NORTHWEST HTSTORY 139 Clerk, serving three terms in succession; also served as school District Treasurer, Member Board of Directors, etc. In 1891 he located in Clarke County on a fruit farm near Vancouver, making prune-growing and nut-eulture a specialty, and in that capacity has invented fruit dryers and has done much valuable work along the lines of nut culture. Mr. Quarnberg has developed several new varieties of nuts and has demonstrated that Clarke County can raise the best wal nuts and filberts in the world, and the nut-growing business promises to be one of this county's most lucrative industries. In 1892 Mr. Quarnberg was elected County Commissioner, and dwas re-elected in 1894, serving six years ; in 1909 he was appointed District Horticultural Inspector for the Counties of Clarke, Skamania and Klickitat, serving as such for over four years, rendering valuable services to the horticulturalists of this district. His wife died in 1909; they have had four chil dren : Roland A. ; Amy N. : Carl N. ; and Ruth E. Quarnberg. JOHN E. MESSENGER. This pioneer and homesteader of Clarke County was born in Ohio, March 7, 1832, and there he grew to manhood; was married to Miss Catharine E. Lord, April 25, 1852; that year he started across the plains to the gold mines of California. In 1853 he settled in Clarke County, first on a farm at Salmon Creek and in 1864 at Brush Prairie, where he lived and labored until his death. He had six children, of which three gre to maturity: Albert, Clara and Anna. Clara married S. S. Smith of Brush Prairie, and they are now residents of Van couver. HENRY C. LIESER H. C Lieser, a pioneer school-teacher, was born in Frank lin, Wisconsin, August 21, 1848, but in 1851 came to the Pacific Coast with his parents and settled in Clarke County. Having received his education at Forest Grove College, he subsequent ly taught school in Yamhill and Washington Counties, Oregon, for about ten years, and also in Vancouver, but shortly was admitted to the bar and opened a law office in Vancouver, but shortly afterwards abandoned the practice and has since oc cupied the farm, where he still resides. He has been Principal of the Vancouver schools, County School Superintendent and 140 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS more recently Public Librarian of Vancouver. His sons, Doctors Miles and Herbert Lieser are among Vancouver's most prominent and progressive medical practi tioners. RICHARD T. COWAN. Richard T. Cowan, one of the founders of the flourishing city of Camas, Washington, was born in Iron County, Miss ouri. January 15, 1834, and came to Clarke County in 1884, engaging in the mercantile business at Camas, where he re sided until his death in 1898; he platted Cowan's Addition to Camas, which now comprises the most important part of the town. Mr. Cowan served the people of Clarke County as County Commissioner and in the Legislature. His son, John A. Cowan, was born at Iron Mountain, May 17, 1868, and came to Clarke County with his parents in 1884, He worked at the paper-mill until 1894, when he was appointed Postmaster of Camas, which position he held until 1899. He then engaged in the cigar and confectionery business, which still occupies his attention. He served as Mayor of Camas from 1900 to 1911, having the honor of being the second mayor of that town, and of seeing the first street graded during his administration. JOHN H. FLETCHER. This pioneer fruit-raiser of Clarke County was born in Franklin County, Vermont, December 27, 1841 ; he moved with his parents to Wisconsin and Kansas, and finally settled in Clarke County in 1870. Mr. Fletcher made his home on a beautiful tract of land east of Vancouver, and overlooking the broad Columbia, and here he started a prune orchard, which he gradually increased until it became the largest orchard in the county. He was the first to raise prunes on a large scale in Clarke County and did much to develope that industry. He was married to Miss Ellen Wells, September 3, 1866, and has seven children : Albert J. ; Arthur H. ; Mary L. ; William R. ; May ; Edward ; and Harry. Mr. Fletcher has taken an active and honorable part in public affairs, serving for many years on the Vancouver School Board, two terms as County Sheriff, and two terms as County Assessor, and in other positions. OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 141 His son, Arthur H. Fletcher, served as Corporal and Ser geant in Co. G, Washington Volunteers, during the Spanish War and the Philippine Campaigns in 1898-99, served as a member Board of Governors Commercial Club, was twice elected County Treasurer, and is at present manager of an Abstract Company in Vancouver. Another son, William R. Fletcher, is serving his second term as County Treasurer, while Edward is a partner in a prosperous drug store in this city. S. N. SECRIST. County Commissioner Secrist was born in Grant County, Indiana. January 17, 1845, his parents having been pioneers of Ohio and Indiana, and his ancestors having come to Virginia with the early colonists in the Seventeenth Century. He was of Revolutionary ancestry and his grand-fathers, Henry Se crist and William McMahill were patriotic soldiers in the War of 1812. When sixteen years of age, Mr. Secrist "crossed the plains" with his parents and in 1862 enlisted in the Union Army, serving in Indian campaigns and on frontier service. Mr. Secrist came to Clarke County in 1872 and took up a homestead a few miles northwest of Vancouver, on which he still resides. In 1898 he joined the stampede to the Alaska gold-fields, going over the ice and thru the Chilcoot Pass, Where hundreds of people perished in the sliding snow; he and his sons, John and George, built a small boat, with which they went down the Yukon and Klondike and engaged in mining on Bonanza Creek. He was united in marriage to Miss Elizabeth Odern, March 22, 1865; to this union thirteen children Avere born, of whom seven are still living, namely: John T ; Fred N. ; George W. ; William H. ; Grace A. Secrist ; Mrs, Mary, M Wood; and Mrs. Fannie M. Sowers. Mr Secrist affi liat.es, with the Odd Fellows and Patrons ¦of HiisbjrOdry,, having been Master of the local. Grange for sev eral years. He has served as School Director for twelve years,, two terms as County Sheriff, and is at present County Com missioner ; in this latter position he is taking an aetive part in the construction of the Intjer-S^a^e Highway Bridge at. Vancouver. His son, John T. Secri&t h Chief of Police of Van,- ¦eouver 142 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS A. J. MILLS. Hon. A. J. Mills was born in Lake County, Illinois, May 8, 1841, his ancestors having been among the Dutch settlers of New York, then called the New Netherlands; his grandfather served in the Revolutionary War and some of the accouter- ments used by this compatriot of Washington are still in the possession of the family. In 1861 Mr. Mills enlisted in the Union Army and served through the Civil War with courage and patriotism. Some years after he moved to Dakota, being among the early settlers of that Territory, where he took a prominent part in public affairs; he was elected as Represen tative in the Legislature in 1870 ; also served as County Com missioner and Deputy Warden of the Penitentiary. Mr Mills came to Clarke County in 1888 and settled on an orchard in Fruit Valley, where he has resided ever since; has served as School Director for several years and as Repre sentative in the Washington Legislature. He was married November 22, 1866 to Miss Marie McCollum and has five child ren, namely: Mrs. Alma Myers; Miss Edmcnia Mills; G. M. Mills; A. C. Mills; and B. Fay Mills; two of his sons, G. M. and A. C Mills served in the Washington Regiment in the Spanish War and Philippine Insurrection. Tho seventy-two years of age Mr. Mills takes a lively interest in all that per tains to the welfare of the state and nation and "his eyes undimmed and his mental powers unabated." CHARLES S. IRWIN. Mayor Irwin, one of Vancouver's modern builders, was born in Pike County, Missouri, November 7, 1868; he received his general education in the public schools, being a graduate of the local High School, and received his diploma as a dentist from th'- Western Dental College, the best known institution ot that kind in Missouri. His parents and grandparents were early pioneers of that state and his grandfather was killed in an engagement with the Indians. Dr. Trwin came to Vancouver in 1901 and has since prac ticed dentistry in this city. He has been very active in social and public affairs, being a member of the Masonic Order, be longing to the Vancouver Knights Templars and to Afifi Tem ple, Mystic Shrine ; he has also served as Exalted Ruler of the OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 143 Vancouver Lodge, B. P. 0. Elks, and represented that Lodge at the Grand Lodge in 1908, at Dallas, Texas. Mayor Irwin was for eight years a member of the State Board of Medical Examiners, having been appointed by Gov ernor McBride and re-appointed by Governor Mead and Gov ernor Hay. He was on the Board of Governors for the Com mercial Club and a member of the first Inter-State Bridge Committee, which conducted the soundings and surveys of the Columbia for that project; he was elected Mayor of Vancou ver in 1911 and re-elected in 1912. HON. R. H. BACK. Judge Roscius Harlow Back, son of Roscius and Plarriet Cutler Robbins Back, was born at Union, Connecticut, May 28, 1865; educated in the common schools and Hitchcock Free Academy; graduated in 1889 from Boston University School. of Law, LL. B. ; practiced his profession in Massachusetts fromi 1889 to 1 903 ; located at vanc0uver, Washington, in, February*, 1904, and has practiced law here ever since. One of his pater nal ancestors, Captain Judah Back, was a soldier in the Amer ican Revolution, and his maternal great-grandfather, Eben ezer Robbins, was also a Revolutionary patriot and served under General Washington at Valley Forge. Judge Back was elected City Attorney of Vancouver in 1908 and Superior Judge of the State of Washington for Clarke County in 1912, taking his seat on the bench in Janu ary; 1913. He was married to Anna Phillips, October 1, 1906, and has three children: Roscius II. Back, Jr.: Helen R. Back, and Harriet E. Back. AENEAS McMASTER. This pioneer merchant of Camas, was born in Inverness County Scotland, October 15, 1830, and learned the trade of carpente1, and joiner in Glasgow. He settled in Canada in 1874, and in 1883 became a citizen of Camas, Clarke County, Washing+on, being the first person to break ground in that town. There he established the pioneer general merchandise store, which he operated with great industry and success until his death some years ago. He married Miss Elizabeth Mcln- d-oe, now deceased, and had nine children : • Isabella, Mary, Lizie, Hugh, Jessie, Donald, Agnes, Violet and Annie. 144 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS His son, Hugh McMaster, still operates the pioneer store established by his father at Carnas and is one of the substan tial, public-spirited citizens of that thriving town. Another son. Judge Donald McMaster, was raised in Camas, where he attended the public school, worked in the paper mill, and studied law while working in his father's store; he was ad mitted to the bar and began the practice of law in 1898 at Vancouver, where he enjoys a large practice. Judge McMast er is a patriotic citizen of wide intelligence, industry, courage and Scotch determination ; he has served as School Director, Justice of the Peace, Attorney of Clarke County, Trustee Public Library, and Superior Judge. JOHN S. BELL. Mr. Bell, one of the early settlers of the Brush Prairie District came to Clarke County nearly half a century ago, and took up his homestead on the slope of Bell's Mountain, which was named in his honor. Here he raised a large family and was active in clearing the land and in opening the locality for settlement. He was also active in public matters, serving on the School Board and representing this county in the Legis lature. During the latter years of his useful life he operated a general merchandise store at Brush Prairie. His s-'on, Ben J. Bell, is a well-known pioneer merchant of Yacolt. and has clone much work for the prosperity of that growing town. Mr. Bell has as his help-mate, Olive Daly Bell, a most estimable lady and daughter of pioneer parents, and to gether they labor for the advancement and well-being of their community. 0. B AAGAARD. Representative 0. B. Aagaard is a native of Sweden and came to Clarke County when a mere lad, some thirty years ago. He took up a homestead a few miles from LaCenter, on a part of which he still lives with his family, and where he has a handsome and, hospitable home. For the last quarter of a cen tury he has been actively engaged in farming and logging, that part of the county being very well timbered. Mr Aagaard. is, exceedingly desirous of seeing this county improved and developed, as, he recognizes its wonderful1 re^- sources and possibilities, and he is especially active in good- OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 145 road work. It is his firm belief that nothing will help this re gion so much as good roads and that no effort or expense should be spared to extend improved roads throughout the county. He has served the public as County Commissioner and as Representative in the State Legislature. CAPTAIN H. C. FUNK. With the single exception of Col. John L. Clem, Captain Funk was the youngest veteran of the, great Civil War. He was born in Nantzic, Germany, in 1849, and was brought to this country by his parents when very young. His father was a surgeon in the U. S. Army during the Civil War, hold ing t^he rank of Major. Herman C. Funk enlisted in the navy in 1863. seeing service in three gunboats in engagements on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. Afterwards he re-enlisted in the First U. S. Cavalry and in 1865 was sent to Arizona, where he participated in an Indian War. He was discharged in 1868 and became a clerk in the subsistence department of the army, being stationed at Portland, Oregon, but was trans ferred to Vancouver Barracks in 1878, remaining a resident of this city until his death in February, 1913. He was married to Miss Elizabeth Carr, who with two children, Mrs. George Walter and Herman Funk, survive him. Captain Funk was an extremely enthusiastic and active member of Ellsworth Post, Grand Army of the Republic, of which he was Post Commander. For twenty years he served as Adjutant of the post and was presented a gold medal by his comrades in recognition of his long and faithful servicess. His son, Herman Funk, is a popular citizen of Vancouver and and active member of the local lodge of Elks. THOMAS DORMAN Thomas Dorman was born in 1836, and spent his early years on a farm. At the beginning of the Civil War he enlist ed in the 12th Iowa Infantry, the same regiment of which the late Captain Robert Williams was a member. He participated in the battles of Fort Donaldson, Shiloh, Jackson, Vicksburg, Tupelo and others, suffering severe wounds and hardships and spending some months in Confederate prison pens. . Mr. Dorman came to Calrke County and settled on a farm in Fern Prairie and labored diligently in the development of 146 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS that portion of our county. He was an unassuming, indus trious citizen and raised a family of intelligent and useful children who are today among the reliable citizens of thi3 county. His son, Bert Dorman, taught several terms of pub lic school, and for some years was assistant to the Civil En gineer force of this city. He is now Vancouver's energetic and efficient City Engineer. H. H. GRIDLEY Was born May 2, 1831, in Tioga County, New York State, where he lived until fourteen years old when he, with his parents, came by way of the Lakes to Chicago, Illinois, on their way to a farm in Kendall County, about forty miles southwesterly from Chicago. That metropolis was smaller at that time than Vancouver is now, and had but one or two brick buildings and no such streets as Vancouver now has. He grew to mandhood on the farm and Dec. 10, 1856, married A. Ellen Cook and in 1906 they celebrated their golden wedding at their home 414 Eleventh Street, Vancouver, the author of this work being among the guests on that occasion. In April, 1871, he arrived in Vancouver with his family by way of San Francisco and in 1876 started the first furniture store here. His wife passed to the better life February 4, 1913 and he now resides with his only daughter, Mrs. Emogene Higgins, wife of W. J. Higgins. They have a daughter, Nellie Higgins, who graduated from the State University at Seattle, securing a Denny scholarship and is now taking post-graduate work. They also have a son, Hubert Gridley Higgins, younger than his sister, but a good student. Father Gridley is proud of his grandchildren. His eldest child and only son, Charles Clinton Gridley was born on the old farm in Illinois, Oct. 12, 1857, was the pioneer abstractor of Washington; he sold his abstract plant and now conducts a mortgage loan business in Vancouver. II. H Gridley was an Abolitionist, a Republican and now a Prohibitionist, always leading in moral reform. In Illinois he was deacon and Sunday School Superintendent of the Con gregational Church for many years and after arriving here was soon made Superintendent of the M. E. School. He was Justice of the Peace, Councilman, County Commissioner, and OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 147 one of the five men who formed what was called the "Short Claim Committee" formed to purchase the interests of the ten heirs and clear the title to all the city west of Main Street, trus saving the homes then under litigation. He can read without glasses and is active for his years. MICHAEL DAMPHOFFER Michael Damphoffer, the oldest living citizen of Vancou ver, is now in his 100th year, and was born in France, serving- in the French Army from 1846 to 1852, and participating in the European wars of that period. He came to America in 1852 and enlisted in the U S. Army in that year, arriving in Vancouver with the Ninth Infantry January 12, 1856, and participated in the Indian campaigns of that year. Not long after his arrival Fort Vancouver was besieged by a band of about 300 Yakima and Cascade Indians, and as almost all the soldiers were absent on campaigns the situation was con sidered critical. But the small force of regulars, volunteers and settlers in the fort succeeded in defending until the arrival of re-inforcements, when the savages beat a hasty retreat. Mr. Damphoffer also took part in the campaigns against the Indians in 1858 under General George Wright, and with his son, Michael Damphoffer, Jr., served duding the Civil War and also in the expedition against the Indians of Southern Oregon in 1865 lie was honorably discharged in 1865 and since tha time has been a citizen of Vanveouver, and always takes part in the parades and exercises on the National Birth day. Another son, Peter, enlisted in the armv in 1873 and par ticipated in the Nez Perce War in 1877-78. He also had a grandson in the Spanish War of 1898. EDSON M. ROWLEY. This pioneer real-estat? dealer was born in Grant County, Wisconsin, June 3, 1860, and graduated at the University of Michigan in 1884. That year he enlisted in the 14th U. S. In fantry and served at Vancouver Barracks, and at other places on the frontier. He was also Chief Clerk of the Ordinance Department and in 1898 was Commissory Clerk of the Second Army Corps under Col. Allison, during the Spanish War. In May, 1899, he resigned his position and returned to vancou- 148 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS ver, thus severing his connection with the military service, with which he had been identified for fifteen years. Mr. Rowley then established his real-estate and insurance business, in which prosperous business he is still engaged. He has large property interests in Vancouver and is one of the city's public-spirited citizens, having taken an active part as member of the Comercial Club, in the work for the Inter- State Bridge, and as a member of the City Council. CHRISTOPHER KALAHAN Judge Kalahan was born in Illinois in 1844, and was raised on a farm in that state. In 1861 he enlisted in the Union Army and served thruout the Rebellion, being in thf battles of Fort Donaldson, Jackson, Vicksburg, Tupelo and others: was severely wounded at Vicksburg, the bullet going through his cheek and coming out of his mouth. Soon aftre that war he crossed the plains and settled on a homestead in Clarke County, on the Lewis or Cathlapoodle River, being one of the early pioneers of that district at a time when the neighborhood was full of the noble Redmen. During those years he became closely associated with the Indians of that locality and he still retains a splendid memory of the Chinook jargon. In 1889 Judge Kalahan moved to Kalama, Washington, where he practiced law until the fall of 1912. He is an ex ceptionally well-read man and has taken an active part in public affairs; he has served as U. S. Commissioner, Mayor of Kalama, Probate Judge, and is at present Receiver of U. S. Land Office at Vancouver. His son, Elmer Kalahan, is a popular conductor on the Northern Pacific Railway and an active member of Vancouver Lodge of Elks. J. M. LANGSDORF Mr. Langsdorf is familiar with pioneer life in all its phases. He was born in Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania, and, as the name indicates, comes from German ancestry, the name originally having been Von Langsdorf. He lived on the farm until fifteen years of age, and in 1861, with three older brothers enlisted in the Union Army. During the war he crossed the plains with a military expedition, driving a six- OP NORTHWEST HISTORY 149 mule team. After the war he was employed as clerk and paymaster for contractors engaged in the construction of the Union Pacific railroad in Kansas. Since 1868 he has been engaged continuously in the bank ing business and organized the Commercial National Bank at Ogden. Utah in 1884. In 191Q he organized the U. S. National Bank of Vancouver, Washington, of which he is president. It is" a most reliable, progressive institution, with responsible and reliable men as stockholders and on the Board of Direc tors, and under his management has made rapid and substan tial growth, having erectea the large and handsome five-story brick building, in which this prosperous bank is located. Mr. Langsdorf is an active member of the Masonic Order and of the' Commercial Club. HJ« son, J. S. G. Langsdorf is the able cashier of the bank. There are many other prominent and useful citizens of Clarke County whom we would like to mention at length if time and space pei mitted. Among these are Fred W. Bier, Vancouver's oldest native-born citizen and the present Secre tary of the Clarke County Fair Association; Professor Hough, our beloved pioneer teacher, for many years Principal of the High School; E. R. Schofield, son of early pioneers, and for many years active in the City Council, and now a prominent business man; Captain Patrick Hasson, a gallant veteran of the Civil War and of Indian .campaigns ; Col. J. A. Munday, our silver-tongued orator from Kentucky and former Receiver of the U. S. Land Office ; J. R. Harvey, ex-mayor and developer of the electric light system ; J. P. Kiggins, ex-Mayor and Span ish War veteran of the 14th Infantry; Mayor-elect Henry Crass ;., prominent business men. like John L, Marsh, son of Vancouver's pioneer blacksmith; Lloyd DuBo.is, Joseph Carter, pioneer telegraph operator : A. C. Chumasero, C. D. Hayes, J. J. O'Keane, Frank Eichenlaub, ex-County Treasurer and former, member of the 14th Infantry, C. E. Cook, a Spanish War veteran of the old 14th, James MeSparren, Spanish War veteran .and Commercial club worker, and many others. But our space and time are both limited so we must bring this chapter, tp a close. ¦ ,....- ,:-., .- „ ;; •,• »; 150 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS A PATRIOTIC TOAST (Written in 1905.) "At the feast of Balshazar and a thousand of his lords. As they drank from golden vessels as the Book of Truth records. In the night as they reveled in the royal council-hall, They were seized with consternation-'twas the hand upon the wall!" From the day of Queen Esther's banquet, when the haughty Haman was humbled, to day of the Bryan ' ' dollar din ner", when the plutocratic Democrats were severely rebuked, the banquet-hall has occupied an important and picturesque place in history, both in the Old World and in the New. It was at a banquet, that Washington impetuously hurled de fiance at "Citizen" Genet and his followers; it was at a ban quet that the gallant Captain Coghlan, his blood still warm from the tropical glory of Manila Bay recited "Hoch der Kais- •er" so dramatically that he severely strained the diplomatic relations between this country and Germany, and caused his countrymen almost to split their sides with laughter, while the German Kaiser gave a more war-like twist to his imperial mustache. It was a speech at the festive board that brought reproof from the war department to General "Auguinaldo" Funston for denouncing the "antis" in plain Anglo-Saxon; and it was by a "feast of reason and flow of soul" and spirits, at a Seattle dinner, that the "tie that binds" was so strength ened among the supporters of Senator Piles that they were Anally enabled to quaff the wine of victory, along with that of other vintages. And only a few days ago two Jefferson Day banquets were added to the long list. One was held in New York City; the other in Chicago. At the former the "late lamented" Judge "Park fir Was" the guest of honor. At the latter Mr; Bryan ap peared ic the limelight, and for a moment cast a shadow over that golden-tongued and golden-whiskered orator, Colonel J. Hamilton Lewis, who adorned the table by his presence and delighted the diners by his eloquence. The speeches of the leaders at these banquets show that th Democratic party i* OF NORTHWEST HISTORY 151 divided into two powerful factions, with widely diverging principles. Nor is this the first time that the birthday anni versary of its patron saint has found the Democratic party bitterly divided. Three-quarters of a century ago the admin istration of Andrew Jackson was torn into. factions by the nul lification issue, President Jackson and Senator Benton being the leaders of one faction, and Vice-President Calhoun and Senator Hayne of the other. The echoes of the great debate between Webster and Hayne had not yet died away, and the whole country was on the tiptoe of expectancy. The disunion leaders planned to take advantage of the coming Jefferson birthday banquet, to be held at the Indian Queen Tavern, in Washington City, by proposing poisonous toasts of treason and uttering polished phrases of disloyalty. So on the evening of April 13, 1830, the Nullifiers jubiliantly gathered in large numbers at the Indian Queen, but just as the feast was to begin, ''Old Hickory" himself walked stern ly into the room, followed by Martin VanBuren, the Secretary of State ; General Eaton, who had married the charming Peggy O'Neil, and Senator Benton, Marcy and other friends. The first toast was : "The memory of Thomas Jefferson," and was drunk in silence. The grim-visaged countenance of the hero of New Orleans dampened the ardor of the Nullifiers. After a few perfunctory toasts, the toastmaster, Mr. Lee, of Virginia, called for volunteer toasts. This was the opportunity desired by Calhoun, and he instantly presented a paper to Lee, who took it and read : ' ' The Federal Union — Next to our liberties the most dear. May we all remember that it can only be preserved by respect ing the rights of the states and distributing equally the bene fits and burdens of the Union." As these words were read all eyes were fixed intently upon the President. Seizing a pencil he hastily wrote one short sentence, which he quickly handed to the chairman. With breathless interest everyone leaned forward to hear this patriotic toast: "Our Federal Union — it MUST be preserved. ' ' This inspiring sentiment elec trified the Union men in the crowd, and was received by them with hearty applause. It fell as a stunning blow upon the dis- nnionists. The iron hand of Jackson had written so elearly 152 LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS that it needed no prophet to interpret the writing on the wall. As the Nullifiers emerged from the Indian Queen Tavern they realized that the defiant declaration delivered in the banquet hall would go forth as a ringing message of cheer to the Amer ican people. In his "Thirty Years' View," Senator Benton says: "This brief and simple statement, receiving emphasis and interpretation from all the attendant circumstances, and from the feeling which had been spreading since the time of Mr. Webster's grand speech, was received as a proclamation from the President to announce a plot against the Union, and to summon the people to its defense." It was a happy thought that led this eminent Missouri statesman thus to link Webster's historic speech with Jack son's historic toast These two great patriots will be forever associated together in the public mind, and their memory will forever join in an unbroken chain, the grateful hearts of their countrymen. The words of Webster and the action of Jack son, during this crisis, should always be treasured among the glorious traditions of our Republic. GLENN N. RANCK, Vancouver, Washington. THE END. YALE RLG-GCMP III AMERICAN HISTORY MICROFILMING SUPPORTED BY NEH ySfrrifecccqct ¦ ... . .