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Mexico

JOURNAL

OF

A RESIDENCE AND TOUR
IN THE
REPUBLIC OF MEXICO
IN THE YEAR 1826.
WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE
MINES OF THAT COUNTRY.

By Capt. G. F. LYON, R.N. F.R.S.

IN TWO VOLUME^
VOL. I.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1828.

PRINTED BY RICHARD TAYLOR,
RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET.

TO

JOHN TAYLOR, Esq. F.R.S. F.G.S. &c.
MANAGER OF THE REAL DEL MONTE
AND BOLANOS COMPANIES.

IV DEDICATION.
sense of your kindness to me, throughout the
official intercourse which took place between
us during the period of my engagement in
Mexico ; and to subscribe myself,
My Dear Sir,
Your grateful obliged Servant,
G. F. LYON.

THE interest which is felt by the public
in all that relates to Mexico, renders me
anxious lest the limited quantity of infor
mation I am able to communicate should
occasion disappointment. It is therefore ne
cessary to state, that the following Journal
pretends to nothing more than an account
of my personal adventures during a resi
dence of eight months in various parts of
that country. Although it does not con
tain matter of much importance, it is a faith
ful narrative of what I saw : and I trust it
will be found to give a fair representation
of the state of the Republic, and to add in

VI

some degree to the very small stock of
information which exists respecting the
people and general appearance of that por
tion of the New World.
I have further to regret, that my materials,
already too scanty, were rendered more so
by the loss of many papers, and the greater
part of my collections, in the wreck of the
Panthea, in which I returned to England.

CONTENTS. VOL. I.
CHAPTER I.
Arrival at Tampico — Pueblo Viejo — Lake — Easter Fes
tival — Gambling — Lancasterian School — Dinner-party
to the General — Ball — Manners— Altamira — Fort 
Duties — The Mira — Miseries — Ascend the River Pa-
nuco — Ranchos — Petroleum — Village of Panuco —
Obsidian Fragments — Figures of Terra Cotta — Re
mains of ancient race of Indians — Rains — Tanjuco —
Ride to San Vicente and San Juan — Return by the
River San Juan — Feast of Ascension — Description of
the Towns of Tampico  Page 1
CHAPTER II.
Journey from Las Tamaulipas to San Luis Potosi — Santa
Barbara — Tortillas — Holy Picture of the Virgin — An
cient Building — Tula — Funeral of a Child— Peotillas
— San Luis Potosi — Route from San Luis to Zaca-
tecas— Vino Mescal— Salt Marshes — Arrival at Veta
Grande of Zacatecas  116

viii CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III.
Village of Veta Grande— Feast-day— Mine of San Ber-
nabe — Zacatecas — Rains — Dislike of the Natives to
the English — Village of the Sauceda — Colegio of Our
Lady of Guadalupe— Christening— Ruins of a large
Indian City now called Los Edificios — Ancient Cause
ways connected with it — Mai Paso— Chase of the Co
yote or Jackal  Page 201
CHAPTER IV.
Account of the Mines and Miners of Zacatecas, and Ope
rations of treating the Ores — City of Zacatecas — Po
pulation of the District  251
CHAPTER V.
From Zacatecas to Bolanos — Villa Nueva — Native Tea
— Warm Springs at Encarnacion — Manufacture of Ci-
garros — Colotlan — La Aguila — Town of Bolanos —
Rope Dancers — Guichola Indians — Ball  269
CHAPTER VI.
Mines of Bolanos — Woods — Leet or Canal— Former ex
pense of draining the Barranco Mine — Town of Bo
laiios — Animals, Fruits and Vegetables — Native In
dians — Guicholas  302

RESIDENCE AND TOUR

IN

MEXICO.

CHAPTER I.
Arrival at Tampico— Pueblo Viejo — Lake— Easter Festival —
Gambling — Lancasterian School — Dinner-party to the Ge
neral—Ball — Manners— Altamira— Fort — Duties —The
Mira— Miseries— Ascend the River Panuco — Ranchos —
Petroleum — Village of Panuco— Obsidian Fragments —
Figures of Terra Cotta — Remains of ancient race of In
dians — Rains — Tanjuco — Ride to San Vicente and San
Juan — Return by the River San Juan — Feast of Ascension
— Description of the Towns of Tampico.
HAVING been appointed one of the Commis
sioners for the Real del Monte and Bolanos
Mining Companies, I left England on the 8th of
January 1826, in the Company's brig Perseve
rance, taking under my charge a large party of
VOL. 1. B

1 COAST NEAR TAMPICO.
artificers intended for the mines of Real del Monte
and Bolanos.
My reasons for undertaking an employment of
this nature in a time of profound peace, and at a
period when no expeditions of enterprize were
going forward, cannot be interesting to the public.
I therefore avoid detailing them : and although on
my outward passage I wrote some few remarks on
Madeira and Jamaica, to divert my thoughts from
all I had left behind, it would be equally unneces
sary for me to publish them ; those places being
already too well known to the general reader to
require further description.
On the 9th of March, having crossed the Gulf of
Mexico, we struck soundings near midnight, and
on the 10th saw, from the mast head, the coast near
Tampico * ; indistinct and low, while in thirty fa
thoms water. Shoaling to twenty-five fathoms, we
then saw the loom of the sand-hills from the deck,
* I mention the soundings on approaching the shore, as
they may be important to seamen; although I have more
fully described the river Panuco and its Bar, in some notes
in the Appendix.

BAR OF TAMPICO. 3
at a distance of about eighteen miles; and having
in the afternoon distinctly made out the Bar, we ran
for it ; and when in six fathoms, a pilot launch came
out in answer to our signal guns. The pilot at first
refused to take so large a vessel * over the bank, —
probably to enhance the value of his services ; but
he was ultimately persuaded to do so : and we safely
passed this impediment, which in charts and books
of pilotage is described as being so dangerous.
On this day, however, the passage was perfectly
smooth, and the break of the sea on the shoal
points which bounded it, could scarcely be said to
exceed a ripple. Nineteen feet and a half was our
shoalest cast, — a most unusual depth, — and the
Perseverance was said to be the first vessel draw
ing above twelve feet of water which had ever
crossed this continually shifting barrier f .
We had no sooner anchored in the river Panuco,
off the little cluster of huts at La Barra, than a
crowd of all descriptions of men, women and chil-
* She drew twelve feet and a half.
f See notes on the Bar.— Appendix No. I.
B 2

4 PUEBLO VIEJO.
dren hastened on board; and the Custom-house
officer, accompanied by a dirty, ragged, ill-looking
man, who was styled Captain of the Fort, seemed
fully disposed to give us some trouble : but wine
and cakes distributed to their families, and cigars to
themselves, effected wonders ; and at sunset I was
permitted to accompany the captain of our vessel to
the town of Pueblo Viejo, at which the Comman
dant resided. Night soon closed on us, and we
rowed for above two hours, against a strong cur
rent, up a stream of half a mile in width. The
sound of our oars aroused the large cranes,
herons, egrets, and innumerable other birds from
their rest, and they fluttered in blind confu
sion across the surface of the stream; while my
riads of fire-flies were flitting amongst the dark
mangroves which dipped their closely woven
branches in the water. Tree-frogs and crickets,
which abound here, almost deafened us with their
shrill thrilling notes ; and to add to the delightful
novelty of my first evening in America, we were
hailed in our own language from an invisible boat,

PUEBLO VIEJO. 5
by a gentleman who, suspecting us to be strangers,
offered to pilot us to the town. We soon reach.
ed the house of Mr. Robertson the American
Consul, to whom we were consigned, and met
with a most kind reception. Seeing that we were
tired, hungry, and wet with the heavy night dew,
he obligingly supplied all our wants, and provided
us with beds in his office ; — but sleep was quite out
of the question. Dogs, pigs, and restless cocks
which began crowing at midnight, would in them
selves have been sufficient to banish rest from a
stranger ; but at about 1 a. m. of the 1 1th, a storm
of rain, thunder and lightning set in with great fury,
and in a few minutes actual rivers were rushing
through the town. This was a severe " Norther,"
and we were rejoiced at having entered the river,
as, had our vessel anchored outside, it would
have obliged her to make an offing, and many days
might have elapsed before she could have reached
the port again.
In the forenoon I waited on the Commandant,
for whom I had dispatches, and then presented to

6 PUEBLO VIEJO.
the Director of the Customs and the Alcalde, the
letters of introduction with which I had been
favoured by D. Vicente Roccafuerte, charge d'af
faires for Mexico, in London.
The Commandant obligingly assured me that
" everything he had was at my disposal;" the Al
calde begged me " to believe that he was my ser
vant;" and the chief of the Customs having "kissed
my hand, and entreated that I would lay my com
mands on him," then proceeded to throw some
impediments in my way. Mr. Robertson very
kindly hired a windowless room for me in one of
the most respectable houses in the place, the mis
tress of which was better known by the name of
the Gachupina (a term of reproach applied to
European Spaniards) than by her proper appella
tion of Dona Francesca.
This lady, who had the reputation of being rich
and cleanly, was quite distressed at not having time
to whiten my room ; but two Indian girls were in
stantly set to work to wash the earthen floor and
make me comfortable. My landlady was all polite-

PUEBLO VIEJO. 7
ness, and I clearly saw that she entertained no
mean opinion of her own good breeding and
address. She was generally allowed to be one of the most
respectable ladies of Tampico ; and although a cer
tain Don Antonio, who assisted in taking care of
her shop and her fair self, was by no means her
husband, she piqued herself on her irreproachable
character, and the high estimation in which she
was held on account of her wealth. Her age might
have been about forty-five ; her person was fat ;
and when in her morning costume, which con
sisted of a shift tied round the waist with a
string, and with a cigar in her mouth, her whole
figure was particularly attractive. This charming
person and I formed an interesting picture every
morning at about six o'clock, as she stood leaning
over a little wicket which kept the pigs, dogs, cats
and poultry from coming out of the yard into my
room. While we cosily smoked the cigars with
which she favoured me, I drew in lessons of Spa
nish, by conversing with her, and listening to con-

8 PUEBLO VIEJO.
stantly repeated assurances that she was an " old
Spaniard" and a woman of sense, although, in
common with nearly all the native ladies of the
place, she did not possess the accomplishments of
reading and writing.
In the evening, the Commandant and his wife,
with some officers of the garrison, paid me a visit
at the Consul's house, where his sister amused the
party by playing on the piano-forte ; and a host of
half-naked natives soon crowded round the door
and windows, which latter at Tampico have no
glass, and seemed highly delighted with the music ;
some of the children remarking with astonishment,
that the Senora " read a book" while playing.
When the visitors retired, I adjourned to my
own room, that I might endeavour to sleep, — but it
was all to no purpose. At my outer door stood a
pig-sty, containing three old sows, — mothers, to my
misery, of a numerous progeny, which had been
separated from them in order to forage in the odo
riferous streets. The moanings and cries in every
tone to which the voice of sows can be modulated,

PUEBLO VIEJO. 9
were answered with interest by the young pigs ;
for, being too large to creep through the bars to
their parents, they solaced themselves by squeal
ing throughout the night. To add to this, the
dogs, of which every house has several, barked
without interruption.
March 13. — On rowing down to the brig we
saw five or six alligators (which are more gene
rally distinguished here by the names of " La-
garto " or " Cayman") in the water, and others
basking in the sun on shore. I landed opposite to
one of these in a little creek, and crept cautiously
through the high reeds to get a shot at him : when
just as I had reached the water's edge and was
preparing to fire, a very large one, on which I
had nearly trodden, awoke from his slumbers, and
plunged into the water, frightening the other
sleeper, and not a little startling me, one of these
creatures having very recently killed a woman.
On returning home I shot a beautiful rose-co
loured spoonbill, and an egret, both of which
birds abound here.

10 LAS TAMAULIPAS.
March 14. — At the new town of Las Tamaulipas
(about three miles to the northward of Pueblo
Viejo, and in a different State,) I experienced great
difficulties with the Custom-house officers, who
would do nothing towards clearing the vessel. Their
only working hours at any time were from 9 a. m.
to 1 p. m., after which period no entreaties could
induce them to move. Even in the very small
portion of the day set apart for business, if a cock
fight was to be held, if gambling engaged them, or
if they were lazy, duty was very quietly deferred
until the morrow, when in all probability the same
excuse would be again offered ; and as in this land
of liberty and equality scolding these people would
only make them worse, patience is the best policy,
and is one of the greatest blessings which a travel
ler in the Republic of Mexico can possess.
I this day killed an alligator, but he sunk be
fore I could take firm hold of him. One of our
party, however, was more fortunate, and procured
a small one of six feet in length.
On the 16th of March I dispatched a party of the

TAMPICO. 1 1
steadiest of the people whom I had brought out,
to Real del Monte ; and on the following morning
the remainder of the men and two women followed
to the same place. It would be in vain for me to
attempt describing my feelings of delight, when I
saw the tail of the last mule turned towards me,
and knew that I had now got rid of all my charge,
except three or four of the best conducted amongst
them. Only those who hav« been- shut up for two
months with a set of mechanics who imagine
themselves too good lawyers to be controlled,
can at all enter into my feelings on this occasion.
Indeed, when it is considered how different is the
confinement on board a vessel and the want of
occupation, from their usual habits of life, it is to
be expected that the charge of superintendence of
these people is attended with much trouble.
At the village of Tampico, seven miles to the
southward of Pueblo Viejo, I visited with a friend
the church, in which we found the old Padre wan
dering about in a long blue gown, the counterpart
of that which Edie Ochiltree is described to have

12 TAMPICO.
worn. It being a Saint's day, a number of women
were seated on the ground in prayer at the shrines ;
some of them having a row of lighted candles stuck
in the earthen floor in front of them. The Padre,
who appeared and spoke as if very tipsy, took us
behind the altar to see an image of our Saviour,
which, except on particular feast-days, is never
exposed to vulgar gaze. The figure was as large
as life, ill-proportioned, of a ghastly yellow co
lour and having indications of the veins painted
black. An apron of red damask, garnished with
gold tinsel roses and tawdry ornaments, was tied
round the waist, and a wig of immensely long hair
covered the shoulders. The whole figure remind
ed me forcibly of the horrid creation of Franken
stein. It is, however, celebrated for the miracles
it has performed : and having, according to the
priest, been found by some soldiers so immediatelv
after the Conquest as to do away with all probabi
lity of human agency, is considered as being sent
from Heaven !
March 1 8. — On this evening the whole town was

TAMPICO. 13
in motion. The officers and their band paraded all
the streets, and ultimately centred at the dwelling
of the Alcalde or Mayor, who kept one of the most
reputable drinking-houses in the town, and rather
piqued himself on having as few drunken people
gambling on his counter, as were to be found in the
shops of any of the other Authorities. It happened
to be the eve of his fete, when it is customary at this
place to offer the compliments of the season. On the
following day, his " dia de nacimiento," the offi
cers of the garrison, in their full uniform and pre
ceded by a discordant band of drums and fifes,
marched down at eleven to partake of the feast, to
which I also was invited. In the centre of the re
ceiving-room was placed a large table, loaded with
the most admired dishes of the country. The de
licious fish called Sapo (or frog, from its resem
blance to a tadpole) lay floating in an ocean of oil,
garlic, pepper, raisins, and other savoury articles.
Meats in all sorts of shining pies, and in a variety of
stews, abounded ; and every little vacancy between
the dishes was filled up by a capacious black bottle.

14 TAMPICO.
We all stood to partake of the abundant feast
" con franqueza ;" and compliments having been
plenteously bestowed in all directions, a copy of
verses was read by the Commandant, informing us
that our little round good-huinoured host possess
ed every virtue under the sun. This, with its re
joinder, was the signal to withdraw ; and having all
wished that the Alcalde "might live a thousand
years," we lighted our cigars and took leave.
March 22. — I procured two of the extraordinary
fish which are here called Cuttan, and known to
the American seamen as the Alligator Gar, or
Gar-fish. The head and jaws are precisely those of the al
ligator, and two of the front teeth of the lower jaw
protrude through holes in the upper as with that
creature. In each side of both jaws were two rows of
very strong sharp-pointed teeth, of which the outer
were by far the largest, and the rows were separated
by a deep groove. The palate also was grooved and
of a very hard enamelled bone, and even the short
tongue was thus defended. The whole body was

TAMPICO LAKE. 15
covered with scales of a particularly hard bony na
ture, and of such strength as scarcely to yield to a
strong chisel and hammer. This fish has two ven
tral, two pectoral, and two anal fins ; but no dorsal
fin. The fins are small and nearly of an equal size.
The eyes prominent, with the faculty of turning in
every direction. The fish, which exceeded five feet
in length, was considered as a small one of the spe
cies, which I should conceive to be of the Esox, or
Pike genus, from its similarity in some respects to
the E. osseus.
On the 23rd, a party of us visited some islands
in the centre of Tampico Lake, at about seven miles
distance from Pueblo Viejo. On rounding the first
small woody islet, we glided from the effects of a
fresh " Norte" or Norther which was blowing, into
. . a smooth sheltered pool thickly overhung with man
grove and other trees, on which were sitting hun
dreds of cranes, egrets, rose-coloured spoonbills,
brown and blue herons, and various other birds, all
as thickly crowded as the tenants of our English
rookeries. In shooting our specimens, we alarm-

16 TAMPICO LAKE.
ed two very large alligators, which could not reach
the lake but by walking along an extensive sand
bank; and we were thus enabled to observe them
in their clumsy progress, which can very rarely be
the case, as they are usually found lying so close
to the water's edge that they reach it by one
spring. From the small island, on which we pro
cured many hatsful of eggs, we proceeded to an
other, on the north side of which were innumerable
nests of cranes and the roseate spoonbill, each
containing two or three nearly fledged young ones.
The mangroves are so closely woven together at
this place, that there is little difficulty in climbing
amongst them, and even walking on their tops.
We consequently scrambled about to admire the
pink clusters of little spoonbills and the pure
white down of the young cranes, all as large as
barn-door fowls, and offering the most beautiful
contrast imaginable to the deep shining green of
the leaves amongst which they were sheltered.
Having completed our collection, we returned
home, and' I carried with me a couple of young

ARRIVAL OF THE GENERAL. 17
spoonbills, which soon grew so tame as to come
at my call and follow me wherever I chose : but
these beautiful creatures died when put on ship
board for a passage to England.
March 24. — In the afternoon of the 24th we
most unexpectedly received information of the
arrival off the Bar, of General D. Miguel Barra-
gan, Governor of the State of Vera Cruz, of which
Tampico is the northern limit ; and it was expected
that all the authorities should go in full dress to
meet him ; the American Consul and I receiving
an invitation to join the party. This was one of the
oddest water-excursions imaginable : there were
about eight boats, of all sorts and sizes, crowded
with officers in cocked hats and plumes ; some
aldermen, with a handkerchief as a substitute for
a hat; a few of the shopkeepers in full suits of
black, and most motley crews of rowers : the whole
party, down to the smallest boat-boy, screamed,
roared, and gave advice to the Commandant as
to the most imposing order in which we should
vol. i. c

18 TAMPICO BAR.
arrange the squadron to receive the General. He,
unfortunately, popped unexpectedly upon us in a
short reach of the river, while the boats had form
ed in a cluster for the purpose of a general ignition
of cigars. The great man, however, was happy to
avail himself of the flints and steels, and we then
returned in state up the stream.
March 25. — I this morning discovered one of the
causes of my nightly disturbances; which was, that
a large house within a few paces of my door con
tained no less than twenty game-cocks, each tied by
the leg to a short stake planted near a neat mat which
served as the roost or bed. These birds were all the
property of an alderman, the most scientific and
adventurous cock- fighter of the whole corporation.
March 26. — I visited and sounded the Bar on
this day *. Several pelicans were fishing on the
shoals, and many thousand terns sat clustering in
one flock on the northern point. Landing at the
little village of La Barra on our return, we found
* See Appendix No. 1.

TAMPICO. — EASTER FESTIVAL. 19
the General there, and received an invitation to
join his party, who presented us with large wine
glasses of poisonous aguardiente.
I was abundantly questioned, and in a few in
stances with some degree of mistrust and jealousy,
as to my motives for examining the Bar, and my
opinion whether this formidable barrier admitted of
improvement, which was considered as impossible
by the whole party. To give them some idea of
what skill and labour could accomplish, I described
to them the Plymouth Breakwater. When I had
done so, a general silence prevailed ; and though
the company were too polite openly to question my
veracity, I could yet plainly perceive that in their
hearts they doubted my narrative.
This being Easter-eve, was the first of those days
especially set apart for gaming and idleness ; and
at about 9 o'clock I went to the Plaza (an open
space near the church), where I found many hun
dred people already assembled to amuse themselves.
A large circle surrounded by spectators and dancers
was expressly set apart for fandangos, which, what-
c 2

20 EASTER FESTIVAL.
ever they may be in Spain, are in the New World
much inferior in grace and activity to the common
African Negro dances ; though the latter, it must be
confessed, are usually to the sound of tin pots and
empty gourds. Here the music was somewhat
better, though not less monotonous ; and consisted
of a guitar, a rude kind of harp, and a screaming
woman with a falsetto voice. Beyond the fandango
stood a range of booths, beneath which, men and
women of all descriptions, old and young, rich and
poor, officers in full uniform and beggars in rags,
were gambling with the most intense interest ; and
individuals who from their appearance might be
considered objects of charity, were fearlessly sta
king dollars, — some even adventuring a handful
at a time. The favourite game was that called
" Chusa," which is played on a deep saucer-shaped
table, and resembles the E. O. of England. All
round the Plaza small groups of Indian and other
women were seated on the ground with little char
coal fires, at which they occupied themselves in
preparing coffee, chocolate, fish, and other eatables;

MEXICAN IDOLS. 21
while under the Chusa tents, spirits of all kinds
were sold in profusion.
March 27. — A gentleman at Tamaulipas permit
ted me to take drawings of two very perfect Mex
ican idols. They were of basalt, and had with many
others been dug up near the spot ; but their com
panions had met with the usual fate of these inter
esting objects, having been broken up as building
materials ! Some European Spaniards who over
looked me as I sketched these figures, could not
refrain from showing their amazement at my taking
so much trouble about " such ugly things" (cosas
tanfeas), — a remark which soon ceased to astonish
me, as subsequently to this period I had frequent
opportunities of observing the extreme indifference
of the generality of the Spaniards to every thing
connected with the history of the aborigines of the
country. When the oppressive glare of the sun had ceased,
and the cool evening breeze set in, Dona Francis-
ca announced to me her intention of visiting the
Chusa ; and inviting me to accompany her, walked

22 GAMBLING.
there in great state between D. Antonio and my
self, preceded by her three servant-maids, one of
whom was in her Indian dress, and had charge of
the cigars for her mistress. We found our way
to the largest gaming-table; at which Francisca,
having elbowed some ragged women off the only
bench in the place, established herself in full play.
Fine ladies with mock jewels, and women of all
shades and colours, with every variety of men,
crowded thickly round their favourite game ; and
my landlady having succeeded in getting the balls
into her own hands, became entirely occupied in
throwing them with such gestures or turns of the
arm as in her opinion would insure success. Be
fore leaving the Plaza, where Francisca remained
playing until nearly daylight, I made my way
through the crowd to take a last peep at her ; and
saw a fellow to whom I had paid a real* in the
morning for sweeping before my door, and who was
almost in rags, standing opposite my fair friend,
acting as banker to the table, at which I suppose
* The eighth of a dollar.

LANCASTERIAN SCHOOL. 23
he had been successful. He had squeezed a real
into his ear " para Fortuna," and ventured his dol
lars at every turn with the most perfect sang froid.
The apparent indifference to losses, and apathy
when successful, is very remarkable with all classes
of Mexicans : but they gamble so incessantly, that
I should conceive all excitement in this dangerous
passion must be deadened, and that the love' of play
at last becomes a disorder rather than an amuse
ment. I have frequently seen a couple of poor por
ters, who had not a farthing of money, sit gravely
ddwn in the dust with a greasy pack of cards, and
anxiously stake their respective stocks of paper ci
gars, until one or the other became bankrupt.
March 28. — I joined the General and a large
party in a visit to the newly established Lancas-
terian school, held in the neatest building in the
town, which was purposely constructed for it. Al
though the establishment had only existed two
months, there were already two hundred boys and
about twenty girls on the books, many of them not
more than four years of age.

24 LANCASTERIAN SCHOOL.
The school-room for the boys was large and airy,
the forms and desks neatly made of a wood resem
bling mahogany. Round the white-washed walls
were painted, in large black letters, various well se
lected moral sentences ; and the whole establish
ment wore the appearance of great order and re
gularity. The master (a native of Madrid) read a
long paper to the General on the great advantages
to be derived from the school ; but few of the party
seemed to feel much interest about it. Some of the
boys then wrote and read ; exhibiting proofs of be
ing far better scholars than most of the authorities
who sat in judgement upon them.
The master, who was a quiet well-informed man,
gave me much interesting information as to his
charge, but complained that the principal people
of the town afforded him little assistance.
The Bible, in Spanish, is permitted to the chil
dren unconditionally; but it appears that few,
either of the old or young in Mexico, are inclined
to read it. It is indeed to be expected, that amongst
a people to whom information on all subjects

DINNER-PARTY. 25
has so long been denied, and whose religion is
framed from legends of which European Catho
lics have never heard, — the Bible in its pure sim
plicity should not appear to bear the stamp of
truth, and that the few selections from it should
have been warped entirely to the purposes of keep
ing a naturally tractable and very credulous race
of men in a state of blindness in religious matters,
bordering but too closely on idolatry.
March Q9. — I dined with a party of thirty-five at
the house of a native merchant, who gave a " con-
vite " in honour of the General. The eating part
of the entertainment, which occupied above three
hours, was served up in one or two dishes at a time :
but we had scarcely been seated ten minutes, before
a "bomba" was proclaimed; and other toasts fol
lowed in rapid succession, generally in verse. It
was extremely amusing to watch the progress of a
sentiment, which I at first imagined was from
the feeling of the moment, — but no such thing :
a gentleman would rise suddenly on his legs,
with an air of the greatest enthusiasm, would

26 DINNER-PARTY.
wave his hand above his head with a joyous shout,
and proclaim a "bomba!" All the party would
then rise to second this animating burst; while
bumpers were filled and silence was obtained:
after this, the proposer of the toast would very
gravely produce from his waistcoat pocket a
ready-made copy of verses, which not being of
his own composing he could not very easily read ;
and then, all having loudly cheered this genuine
son of Anacreon, the company would sit down
until a similarly bright and equally original sally
was made by another of the party. Unfortunately,
on this festive occasion all the verses, and there
were at least thirty, turned on the same subject :
pompous, overstrained compliments to the "In
vincible" the "Immortal" "The Hero of the
Age, General Barragan ;" or, " To the Success of
the Mexican Republic, the Envy and Admira
tion of the World !" — I was most heartily rejoiced
when, at 8 o'clock, all this ceremony was over.
We were then enabled to go, in good time, to a
ball at the drinking-shop of the cock-fighting al-

BALL. 27
derman, who did not, however, honour us by his
presence. I know not what music we had at the
ball, — the performers, certainly not of Colinet's
band, being hidden in a crowd of Indians and idle
people who stood in the court-yard.
The ladies, who at Tampico had not at this
time arrived at the refinements of any kind of
stays or gloves, sat in a stiff formal line at one
end of the room, all smoking very seriously, while
at the other the gentlemen also solaced them
selves with the same ball-room luxury. The Ge
neral, who had been much in the more polished
parts of Mexico, looked rather bewildered on
being pressed to dance; but complied with the
wishes of the company, and swam through the
labyrinths of a Spanish dance with a most woe
begone countenance.
Following his great example, I did the same ;
but with no great success, — my partner, a very ac
tive shrivelled little old woman, being so provoked
at my inability to exhibit her graces to advantage,
as very unceremoniously to leave me standing in

28 ANCIENT INDIAN FIGURES.
the middle of the room, while she retired in high
wrath to a corner, and sought consolation in a
cigar. March SO. — A gentleman at Las Tamaulipas
very courteously presented me with several small
figures and imitations of Indian weapons carved
in bone: these, with a skeleton, had recently been
dug up in sinking the foundation for a house
in this new town, which, as I have elsewhere re
marked, is evidently on the site of one of the In
dian cities discovered here by Juan de Grijalva.
I subsequently received from the same gentleman
a little idol in terra cotta, which was found on
the day he brought it, in digging a well. It was
similar to others which I procured in Panuco, and
the face and head-dress in all the specimens re
sembled each other in an extraordinary degree.
Having dined with the Commandant, and seen
the poor modest General sadly persecuted with
compliments, I accompanied him and our enter
tainer to the Chusa, at which the Commandant
(a colonel in the army and governor of Tampico)

MANNERS. 29
soon found his way to the table where his lady
and my friend Francisca sat playing with great
animation. In a moment this high official charac
ter was deeply engaged in betting and staking his
dollars with all the ragamuffins whom" I have
already described as frequenting the Chusa. The
boatmen and cargadores rather predominated at
his table ; but they ventured deeply against him,
and in so doing lost much of their money. The
General, meanwhile, rambled about in the crowd
in a large gold-laced hat lined with black ostrich
feathers, bearing in his hand a tumbler of aguar
diente, which he offered to all his acquaintance,
to whom he also presented the cigars he had pur
chased from time to time at the booths. The
great familiarity of manners amongst the Mexi
cans may appear to strangers as the effects of the
recent changes and assumption of a republican
form of government; while in fact it is adopted
from the custom of Old Spain, where the domes
tics, bred up from generation to generation in the
same house, inherit all the privileges of familiar

30 MANNERS.
intercourse. With this foundation, society in New
Spain is far more debased than in the mother-
country, owing to the cruel state of ignorance
in which it has been the policy of Spain to
keep its Transatlantic subjects. It may be plainly
perceived, therefore, that the equality of educa
tion, breeding, and knowledge of the world, have
brought the beggar and the noble on joking
terms together. Things must now rapidly im
prove: and when the women are allowed their
proper station in society; when the female chil
dren are restrained from playing in the streets,
or with the dirty persons who act in the capacity
of cooks ; and when stays and ablutions are intro
duced, and cigars forsaken by the softer sex, the
manners of the men will be materially changed.
In the southern provinces, the effects of free in
tercourse with Europe have altered not only the
forms of society and dress, but have given to the
manners of the better classes a degree of polish
which will speedily be imitated by their more
rustic neighbours.

ALTAMIRA. 31
General Barragan was a mild obliging man,
who, instead of proffering attentions according to
the established forms, did all in his power to serve
his friends ; and he afforded me assistance when
ever I required it, with a cordiality which is not
often to be met with in Mexico.
April 1. — Having learnt by a letter from a
party who had been sent forward to Zacatecas, of
their detention by the Alcalde of Altamira, I rode
there to arrange matters; and the impediments
arising from a little overstretch of power being
removed, the people had permission to proceed
forward on the morrow. When this business was
settled, the Alcalde, who owned the only little
public-house in the place, was very attentive, and
took me to the top of the church, of which he is
the head chorister. Hence I obtained a view of
the Lake, and the neglected, forsaken town of
Altamira, — once so crowded and of such com
mercial importance, but now containing scarcely
more than one hundred souls, the inhabitants

32 ALTAMIRA.
having removed to the new and rapidly rising town
of Tamaulipas.
April 2. — It was a delicious morning when I left
Altamira ; and the fresh dew, as it rapidly evapo
rated under the first rays of the morning sun,
gave out all the sweets it had imbibed from the wil
derness of flowers. Nothing indeed could exceed
the fragrance exhaling from the woods for the
first two hours of the day. Its fineness had called
forth some beautiful varieties of small snakes,
many of which, of an exquisitely brilliant green
colour, were gliding about the pathways. I now
saw the smaller Mexican pheasant, and the cries
of the chachalaca resounded from every part of
the forest.
The distance between Tampico and Altamira is
about seven leagues. In the afternoon I received a
visit from a very extraordinary posture-master, a
little fellow of about forty years of age, with a
countenance alarmingly like that of a baboon.
Enormous ears stood at right angles with his head,

ALLIGATOR. 33
which was thinly covered with single crisp brown
hairs : his figure was almost deformed, yet his at
titudes were certainly equal to those exhibited by
Mazurier. A Mexican man-of-war brig and two schoo
ners anchored off the Bar in the afternoon, when
I had an opportunity of seeing some of the officers
of the incipient navy of the Republic.
April 3. — On crossing for Tamaulipas I shot
the largest alligator I had yet seen, and which
could not have measured less than twelve feet.
On being struck, the blood spouted copiously from
its wound, and the air became strongly impreg
nated with a pungent odour of musk. As this
creature slid from the bank into the water while
struggling in death, I saw no more of it until the
following day, when its carcase, half bared by the
vultures, was lying on a sand-bank, and in a state
too offensive to be approached. I lamented not
having obtained the skin of this creature, as it
was of a bluish black colour ; while the usual hue
of the Tampico cayman is a brownish green.
VOL. I. D

34 FORT.
April 5. — In an expedition down to the Bar, I
paid a visit to the Castillo, or Fort, which is placed
at its southern side. It is a small space rudely
surrounded by upright stakes planted in the sand :
their height is about that of a man. Vacancies are
left on a level with the ground ; and five guns, of
as many different calibres, frowned through these
embrasures. First appeared an iron six-pounder
carronade on a ship-carriage; next was a long
twelve, with a similar mounting ; by its side stood
a small brass field-piece on high wheels ; and last
of all, a venerable nine-pounder showed its honey
combed muzzle. Of all these engines of war, the
brass swivel was the only one not choked with
rust: yet the natives consider the Castillo as a
" place of proof;" and it was originally constructed
for the purpose of intimidating a French squadron
which some time since was expected to appear on
the coast to assist the Royalists !
When I peeped over the stakes at the fortress,
the officer of the guard rose hastily in his blanket,
cried " Vigilancia" in a tone of thunder to a slum-

DUTY ON DOLLARS. 35
bering Indian soldier who was lolling in the burn
ing sunshine, and then proceeded to inform me
that no strangers were permitted to look into the
castle. I could not avoid assuring him that I was
not going to take any hints from it ; and then at a
respectful distance made a sketch of this very cu
rious place, — not, however, without interruption ;
an Indian soldier having somewhat peremptorily
notified to me, that no one was allowed to write a
" descripcion " of the Fortaleza, without permis
sion of the government.
April 7. — Amongst my other duties I attended
at the Custom-house at Tamaulipas to pass ten
thousand dollars which we had brought with us ;
but learnt with astonishment that no money
coined abroad could be landed ! Dollars of every
part of Southern America are prohibited, or at
all events considered as not proper to be intro
duced; and even the Spanish pillar-dollar is
objected to. Our agent and myself were re
quired to enter into a bond relative to this money,
" that if at any future period the government
d 2

36 DUTIES.
should impose a duty on the importation of dol
lars, we should be liable to pay it." In conse
quence, however, of this singular clause, we en
tered the money as landed for exportation, sold it
to advantage, and it was re-embarked by the pur
chaser without paying the three per cent expor
tation duty, which would otherwise have been due
to the state. I mention this as one of the many
impolitic laws relative to the public revenue, which
is further prejudiced by the import duties on every
article of commerce, amounting at this period to
about thirty-five per cent, exclusive of still further
Internacion duty to the amount of twenty-five more.,
The consequence of this measure, has been the
introduction of a regulated system of smuggling;
for conniving at which, each class of officers of the
Customs had its stated fees : by these douceurs the
purposes of the merchants were fully answered,
and at least half of the established duties saved
to them, while but a small proportion of benefit
accrued to the revenue of the state *.
* An administrador of the Customs, whose salary was one

THE MIR A. 37
April 9. — We rode this evening to the Mira, or
Look-out, which is on a thickly wooded hill at the
back of Pueblo Viejo, and commands a view of the
sea and outer surf of the Bar. A delightful view of
inland scenery, — a portion of the River Panuco,
and the wide-extending Lake of Tampico, — is also
obtained; while the New and Old towns, with the
vessels at anchor off Tamaulipas, form a coup
d'ceil, which of its kind is unequalled in any part
of Mexico. There are two small bamboo huts on
the eastern side of the hill inhabited by Indian
families, who support themselves by the sale of a
beverage expressed from the sugar-canes, of which
they have a small plantation. It is the custom of
all classes at Pueblo Viejo to make their Sunday
evening's lounge to the Mira and drink this liquor,
which, though very inferior to Pulque *, is in great
request. On this day the beautiful wood was much
thousand two hundred dollars per annum, retired at this pe
riod, after about eight months official residence, with one
hundred thousand dollars !
* This is only procured in the more temperate regions of
the table land.

38 LAS TAMAULIPAS.
crowded with pedestrians, winding amongst the
intricate and shady mazes of the thicket. Indians
with their families, half-casts, negroes, and Creoles,
in great variety of gay costumes, rendered the
picture extremely pleasing. Here and there the
tinkling of the small Indian guitar, or joyous
songs by parties who carried fruit and provisions
for their evening feast under the trees, gave an
indescribably lively character to the scene, height
ened as it was by the large flights of bright green
parrots and parroquets, the restless cardinals and
crimson-crested woodpeckers, with many other
beautiful varieties of birds, all in happy activity
as the burning sun retired.
April 11. — After having lived for a length of
time in noise and misery at Pueblo Viejo, I at
length succeeded in lodging myself at Tamauli
pas, in a large white-washed barn, consisting of
one room ; for which, without a single article of fur
niture, I paid two dollars and a half per diem, and
was congratulated on having found so cheap a
lodging in the New Town. I am not intending to

LAS TAMAULIPAS.  MISERIES. 39
be fastidious, neither am I one who complains of
lodging, diet, or other inconveniences to be met
with in the ordinary course of things ; yet anything
was happiness to me after the constant noises at
Francisca's : and I noted with great satisfaction
the first entire night's rest which I enjoyed un
interrupted by dogs or cocks since arriving in
the country. Hogarth's " Enraged Musician"
never suffered more than I had done, in conse
quence of the utter impossibility of enjoying one
quiet hour to attend to my business. I may be
pardoned for giving some description of my trou
bles, in order to show that, with every disposition to
accommodate myself to circumstances, it was quite
impossible to sit easy under such a constant din.
The back door of my room, which supplied the place
of a window, opened into a yard in which eighteen
hens and numerous chickens were wont to ramble.
A horse tied to a tree neighed at intervals to its
two responsive fellow-servants in a small open
stable. Four dogs, of various voices and most
provoking tempers, growled and barked constantly

40 MISERIES.
at each other, or at five starvling cats and their
kittens, from daylight until sunset, and from dark
again until morning. The projecting eaves of the
house formed a kind of covered way, to protect
Dona Francisca from the sun, — sheltering also one
of my greatest torments. On a pole, suspended
by a rope at each end, swung a favourite parrot,
which talked incessantly, and very much in the
same key as its mistress. Patches of Spanish songs,
terms of insult and opprobrium, expressions of en
dearment, curses, and orisons to the Virgin, suc
ceeded each other in a rapidity of utterance alto
gether peculiar to the mistress and the bird. It
was also my fate to hear two young Indian women
and a little talkative girl grind maize, slap tortil
las, sing, gossip and laugh abundantly, within two
yards of my door ; and at meal-times, the smell
and sound of fish and other viands frying in oil
was added to the harmony. Francisca, of whose
tones words can give no idea, had adopted a sickly,
yellow, and fretful little child, with a perpetual
scream and constant restlessness. The squallings

EXPEDITION UP THE RIO PANUCO. 41
of this poor infant, which were faithfully imi
tated by the parrot, elicited alternately, coaxings,
scoldings and whippings from its madrina; and
the general result was, that the wretched baby
on being turned as a punishment into the yard,
would creep in and sob in one corner of my little
room. I say nothing of the pigs and a kid or
two, which, unhappily for me, had excellent
lungs, or of Don Antonio's constant squabbles
about politics with a sickly fellow-lodger of mine,
who, when not otherwise occupied, dropped in to
tell me of all his ailments. But when I add to this
list of miseries the insufferably powerful fangs of
the fleas, bugs, mosquitos, sand-flies and garra-
patos*, which feasted upon me in those moments
when I most required rest, my situation may be
easily imagined.
On the morning of the 14th of April I left Las
Tamaulipas with my servant Marriot and one of
the Company's men, in a fine large canoe formed
* A small kind of tick, which in great numbers bury their
heads in the skin and are very difficult of extraction.

42 EXPEDITION UP THE RIO PANUCO.
of a single tree, and proceeded on the examination
of the River Panuco, of which so little has been
hitherto known. We started with a light sea-
breeze up this beautiful stream, and our general
rate of progress through the water was about
two miles and a half in the hour. Our two canoe-
men rarely paddled the boat, or entered the centre
of the stream, unless when sailing ; but at all other
times pushed it forward by putting their oars to
the bottom, and keeping for that purpose close to
the bank. A portion of the stern part of our canoe
was covered with an odd kind of awning, to shel
ter us from the broiling sun by day and the heavy
dews of the night. This was composed of a rough
frame of green sticks, bent from side to side of the
boat, and covered with three fresh bullocks' hides,
the smell of which while drying over our heads was
particularly offensive; they afterwards became stiff
and semi-transparent, and the sun's rays penetrated
to such a degree as to make us fancy ourselves exotic
plants undergoing the process of forcing. To add
to our discomfort, the awning was so low as not

RANCHOS. 43
to admit of our sitting upright under it. The
banks on either side the river were thickly and
luxuriantly covered with small trees and shrubs ;
and at the end of about twelve miles from our
outset we came to the commencement of the
Rancho de San Pedro. The name " Rancho "
is in this country applied to the large pasture
districts in which horses and cattle roam almost
wild ; and when they are wanted, either for the
market, for taming, or other purposes, they are
driven into inclosures, or caught by mounted horse
men with the Laso.
This process is already too well described by
Captain Basil Hall for me to say more about it.
The people who attend to these Ranchos are
called " Rancheros " and " Vaqueros," and are a
fine, active, athletic race of men; much more
simple and well-mannered than those who live
amongst the busy world. A Rancho "de Ga-
nado" is a cattle farm; "de Cavallada" or "Mu-
lada," for horses or mules ; and " de Ganado
menor," for sheep and goats. " Haciendas" may

44 PETROLEUM.
be more properly called immense farms : grain
is cultivated on them ; but at the same time the
rearing of cattle in great abundance is not neg
lected. The lands are generally surrounded by
stone walls : a kind of village is established round
the granaries and dwelling of the owner or his
administrador ; and every Hacienda is obliged by
law to maintain a church on the estate. On the
low lands towards the Tampico coast there are
few or no Haciendas, and Ranchos alone are to
be found near the river.
Passing for some time the banks of San Pedro,
we came to the Estero de Chila, another extensive
rancho, the cattle of which were either grazing or
lying under the shade of the trees close to the
water's edge. On this estate, at about three or
four miles from the river, is a large lake, from
whence I understand that the petroleum which is
brought in great quantities to Tampico is collected.
It is here called Chapopote, and is said to bubble
from the bottom of the lake, and float in great
quantities on the surface. That which I saw at

RIVER PANUCO. 45
different times was hard and of good appearance,
and was used as a varnish, or for covering the
bottoms of canoes ; the general price was four reals
(half a dollar) for a quintal (100 pounds). We
had seen at least thirty alligators in this day's
journey ; and off Chila passed three large turtles,
which could not have weighed less than two hun
dred weight each. To our great regret these
creatures were awake, so that we were unable to
strike them. We also saw one solitary wild tur
key ; and shot a few birds, of a sort quite new to
me. At sunset we landed, and pitched our tent
on a bank near the Rancho del Caracol (or snail),
where we could purchase nothing but a leathery
cheese and some garlic. Inland of our resting-
place lay a wide-extended plain, having a few
huts prettily situated under some distant trees,
and several lakes, round which numerous cattle
were feeding. A number of horsemen were dis
tributed about the plain, collecting the stragglers
into groups for the night, and whirling their un
erring lasos round the heads of the animals, to
enforce obedience.

46 RIVER PANUCO.
Myriads of mosquitos kept us awake the whole
night, and we rose at dawn of day, April 1 5, but
the herdsmen were already out before us scouring
the plains in chase of the milch cows, which they
drove at a full gallop into folds near us, while wo
men were waiting to tie their hind legs and milk
them : after this they were set at liberty till the
following day. The cows in Mexico are milked
only once in the twenty-four hours; and from the
wandering life they lead, and the little trouble taken
about them, yield but a small proportion of milk,
and that of very inferior quality. Soon after pursu
ing our route, and just as the sun had burst forth in
all its power, we met a canoe laden with oranges ;
and I gladly purchased a supply of this refreshing
fruit, which is brought down the river from Tama-
sinchate, a voyage of four or five days for canoes
descending with the current. Before noon, the sea-
breeze, the greatest imaginable luxury in the Ti-
erra Caliente, set very strongly up the river, and
we sailed delightfully before it, discovering as we
advanced fresh beauties at every turn of the stream.
The varieties of new and magnificent trees, cover-

RIVER PANUCO. 47
ed with the most luxuriant and brilliant parasitical
plants, dipping their branches in the current ; wi
thering trunks clothed with a verdure not their
own, but which flourished on their decay ; and the
immense up-rooted timber lying grounded in the
shoaler parts of the stream, and causing strong ed
dies amongst their shattered branches, — gave a cha
racter to the scene around which to me was alto
gether new and enchanting. Here we saw the hang
ing-nests of the calandria and many bright-plumed
birds. Lime and lemon-trees, bearing at the same
time fruit and flowers, hung most invitingly over
the water, and afforded us abundance of refreshing
lemonade. In some places, immense willows threw
their cool shade over smooth banks, resembling
very closely the park scenery on the borders of the
Thames ; while groups of cattle grazing or sleep
ing beneath thin spreading branches, rendered
these particular views so like home, that it was for
tunate we had some other objects to remind us how
far we were removed from it. Here an enormous
alligator would plunge into the river from his

48 RIVER PANUCO. — MAIZE.
broken sleep on the sunny bank; or a delicate white
heron would rise alarmed on the wing, and soar
above our heads when affrighted from her retreat
amongst the rushes. We saw also on this day a
manati, or sea-cow, but it was out of the reach of
our shot; and I killed a water-snake as thick as my
wrist, while it lay sleeping in the sun on a branch
of a decayed tree. To add to the picturesque of
our evening scenery, we came up at sunset with
an American schooner, which lay becalmed in one
of the short reaches while on her way to Panuco
for a cargo of fustic (dye-wood). We were at
this time abreast of the Rancho del Aguacate, near
which the cultivation of maize, the only grain of
this part of Mexico, appeared to commence ; and
as night closed in we passed several Indian huts
surrounded by it. We sailed slowly on with a light
breeze, near banks quite illuminated by the fire
flies, and the wailing and cries of the solitary night
birds gave a peculiar solemnity to the evening;
when our ears were suddenly enlivened by the merry
sounds of a fiddle and a guitar, proceeding from

RIVER PANUCO. 49
a small canoe, which glided swiftly past us, and
was carrying this little band to a fandango about
to be given at one of the Ranchero's huts.
April 16. — We slept a few hours this night in
our canoe, which was hung to the bushes at the
bank of Topila. At twilight we again moved for
ward : the morning was cool and hazy, the ther
mometer being only at 70° ; and when the day
cleared up, we landed at a Rancho, in a long reach
of seven miles, called Torno Paciencia, where we
breakfasted on milk. The banks on this day's jour
ney had become very steep and sandy, and the
small timber began to give place entirely to very
large trees. In the forenoon we passed a small is
land rich in Indian corn, standing seven or eight
feet in height, with pompions and water-melons,
some of which we purchased. I afterwards learnt,
when too late to take advantage of it, that a very
ancient statue was to be seen at this place. Oppo
site the island is an establishment, formed three
years since by some Americans as a distillery of
Aguardiente from the sugar-cane. It was at this
VOL. I. E

50 VILLAGE OF PANUCO.
period at work. Near this we saw two manati at
a distance in the river. The thermometer at noon
in the shade was 83°, and in the sun 94°. At 8 p.m.
we rounded a point thickly planted with maize, and
came in sight of the village of Panuco, situated on a
high bank, the prettiest spot I had then seen in the
country. On approaching the landing-place we
nearly ran the canoe over a naked woman, who
was standing up to her neck in the river. I after
wards learnt that many of the brown sex of this
place were excellent swimmers, and that all the na
tives bathed without the least dread of alligators ;
these creatures for some unaccountable reason sel
dom appearing here, although they abound lower
down, and are also in great numbers higher up the
stream. While unloading the canoe, two of my friends,
who had ridden from Tampico (about forty-five
miles) to pass the day with me, arrived, and I pro
cured with great difficulty two small dark rooms
in a mud hut. Our search for food and firing then
commenced ; but neither meat nor wood could we

VILLAGE OF PANUCO. 51
procure for three hours, and we were still longer in
obtaining forage for the horses of my visitors. All
the town seemed wrapt in a torpid kind of sleep.
Money, scolding, and entreaty, — all were tried in
turn; but nothing could induce a single soul to as
sist us. At length, to the honour of the sex be it
spoken, a Campeachy female, who had recently
awakened from her long Siesta, and had opened
her shop door, called me to her, and offered wood,
and words of consolation, both of which were grate
fully accepted ; a few yards of Tasajo, or jerked
beef, being produced at the moment, a warm
supper was cooked for us. In the mean time I
waited on Don Fernando de San Pedro, a very
great man, to whom I had letters of introduction,
in each of which was particularly mentioned my
anxiety to see any objects of interest which might
exist in this place, such as Indian antiquities or
natural productions of the country. I had been
informed by several people at Tampico that a great
number of very curious idols were to be found on
this person's estate, though the owner of these trea-
e 2

52 PANUCO.
sures appeared himself quite ignorant of his riches,
and scarcely knew what was meant by " Antiqui
ties," still less by the term " Idol." He was how
ever all graciousness, and permitted me to roam
about and make whatever discoveries I might wish.
One of my canoe-men was of far more assistance
in my research ; and his first prize was an odd
grotesque-looking figure in terra cotta, used as a
child's plaything, for which I was to pay a quar
ter of a dollar.
Having thoroughly fatigued ourselves by the
ramble through the town, we were glad to retire to
rest, and still more pleased to learn that there were
no mosquitos in Panuco ; and I lay down in peace,
for the first time since landing in Mexico.
April 1 7. — My visitors left me early to return to
Tampico, and after breakfast I carried a letter of
introduction to the Cura, who received me most
kindly, and was the means of my passing a very
agreeable day. This worthy priest was an intel
ligent lively man, of about fifty years of age, li
beral in his ideas, and ready to give me every as-

PANUCO. 53
sistance and information in his power. His views
respecting the state of the country as to society and
morals, and the necessity of educating the poor,
were just and reasonable, and he assured me that
I should find many of the secular clergy equally
zealous in the cause of improvement as himself.
He laid before me the last census of his little cure,
and told me that any other papers relative to the
Indians, or the " Gente de Razon," were quite
at my service. With this kind guide I again vi
sited Don Fernando, in whose house itself the Pa
dre soon found a curious idol for me to copy. I
had no sooner commenced my drawing, than it ex
cited so much astonishment that half-a-dozen gro
tesque figures and vases were quickly brought to
me ; Don Fernando himself presenting me with a
little bird-shaped whistle of earthenware, having
two holes on each side, so that a kind of tune might
be produced from it. I now found full occupation
for the day, and a whole group of children were
sent out in search of toys, which I agreed to pur
chase at a medio (three-pence each). In addition

54 PANUCO.
to my acquisitions of this kind, I obtained permis
sion to copy many others, which the owners valued
too highly as playthings for their children to part
with. The streets of Panuco are to this day thick
ly strewed with the remains of ancient crockery ;
and often, after heavy rains, entire vessels and toys
are found washed down the water-courses.
In the evening of this day, after the hour of Si
esta, I sought out my friend the Padre, who it ap
peared had been busy in my service, and he gave
me three most curious little figures. He also took
me to examine a very perfect earthen flute ; but the
boy to whom it belonged could not be persuaded
to part with it. We walked afterwards to see the
remains of what the Padre informed me were once
Pyramids, and to which the name " Cue *" is still
applied, although they are now nothing more than
five or six mounds of earth, of thirty or forty feet
in height. They lie to the westward of the town,
* This was the term by which the Pyramids were distin
guished at the time of the Conquest.— Vide Bernal Diaz,
Clavigero, and others.

FRAGMENTS OF OBSIDIAN. 55
near each other, and on the plain around them I
found several pieces of obsidian arrow-heads, which
must have been brought from a great distance * by
the warriors who once peopled the banks of the
river. Hence we proceeded through the thickets to se
veral small muddy ponds, where the exhalations
are very unhealthy ; and although the labour of a
few days would suffice to fill up all these places,
such is the indolence of the natives that they pre
fer the annual attacks of fevers and agues, to the
trouble of endeavouring to remove their existing
causes. I here, for the first time, saw the fruit of the
wild pin%— Pina del Cardon, or Basuchi, — which
is found in a cluster of light yellow plum-shaped
fruits, with thick skins, and each containing a small
fresh juicy pulp, having a number of seeds mixed
with it. This if eaten in any quantity excoriates
the mouth very painfully, but is deemed a whole-
* From Pelados near Real del Monte, where there were
mines, or rather pits, sunk on the vein of this mineral; or from
Cinapecuaro, a day's journey from Valladolid.

56 BANYAN TREE.
some febrifuge when mingled with water. Having
rambled through the outskirts of the village, where
I picked up many more fragments of obsidian, we
went to see a very gigantic Banyan, or Indian Fig-
tree, which, situated on a high bank, had thrown
down some of its monstrous trunks to the edge of
the river beneath ; and vessels in need of careen
ing always " hove down" to them. Near this fine
specimen were some parched ill-cultivated gardens,
where the plantains alone were flourishing. The
owner of one of the gardens most graciously pre
sented me with four turnips and one long leafy
cabbage, all considered as great rarities, and he
also treated the Padre and myself to orangeade
and cigars.
At my return home, after dark, I found one of
my boat-men in sad tribulation. He informed me
that people were coming to imprison him, until he
should pay one hundred dollars to the widow of a
man whom he had stabbed and killed some months
before in a quarrel.
To Englishmen this may seem a very slight pe-

ANTIQUITIES. 57
nalty, but it is a far heavier one than is usually in
flicted even on the most cruel murderers in the
northern states; the general punishment at this
period being confinement, or sentence of confine
ment for a few days, from which in many instances
the delinquent is permitted to escape and perpe
trate fresh enormities.
April 18. — This was one of the hottest days* I
had at this time experienced in the Tierra Calien-
te, and I was happy in any excuse to stay at home
and copy antiquities. The Padre sent me as a
present, several curious ancient toys and whistles,
with one small terra cotta vase very beautifully
carved with those peculiar flourishes introduced in
the Mexican manuscripts. I was also fortunate
enough to procure an antique flute of a very com
pact red clay, which had once been polished and
painted. It had four holes, and the mouth part was
in the form of a grotesque head.
In the evening, while on my way to thank the
Cura for his attentions, I met a party of soldiers
* Thermometer 8 a. m. 80° ; Noon 86° ; In the sun 104°.

58 RECRUITS.
conducting several young men to join the troops
at Tampico. They had been forcibly carried away
from a fandango, (which by the way is an excellent
place for judging of the activity and capabilities
of a youth,) and lodged in the common prison un
til a sufficient number of subjects had been collect
ed. There were fourteen of these unwilling recruits,
whom I saw carried off in two canoes so very small
that there was but just room for them and their
guards to squat down in the bottom without up
setting the boats. Not one of them had a change
of clothes or a blanket to cover him, although go
ing a two-days journey down the river, in this
crowded state, and in the commencement of the
rainy season. Until reaching the water-side they
were tied together by ropes, like led horses going
to a fair : and of the crowd who witnessed their em
barkation, I was in all probability the only per
son who considered it an extraordinary spectacle,
in a time of perfect peace and in a country frantic
on the subject of liberty and equality.
April 19. — It rained and thundered, as is usual

PANUCO. 59
in this part of the world, tremendously all night,
and at daylight of the 19th we left Panuco to pro
ceed on our examination of the river. Having fre-
quently seen the priest and the best-informed men
of the place, I had been enabled to collect some
thing of its history; and on this day knew not a bet
ter method of employing my time under a meri
dian heat, than by retiring beneath the canoe co
vering of bullocks' hides, and putting on paper the
little information I had obtained.
The Panuco, which Cortes conquered with so
much expense of lives and treasure*, must un
questionably have stood on the spot occupied by
' the present town. At the period of the conquest
of Mexico it was a place of such importance, that
the great captain petitioned Charles the Fifth to add
its government to that of New Spain, or Mexico,
of which it was, and ever had been, independent.
Obtaining his desire, a garrison was placed in the
chief town, which was named " San Esteban del
Puertof," an appellation now no longer existing,
* Bernal Diaz. f Ibid.

60 PANUCO.
although Saint Stephen is still the patron saint,
and the ancient name is ¦ the only one at present
used. The descendants of the warlike people who
formerly inhabited the " numerous populous towns
on the banks of the river"* yet dwell in the neigh
bourhood, but in very diminished numbers. In
their mild dejected countenances no trace is seen
of their being the offspring of those warriors who
defeated Grijalva their first discoverer, Garay, and
the troops of Cortes, who did not effect their sub
jugation without great loss of men, and at an ex
pense of 60,000 dollars f, an enormous sum in
those days. Time and the tremendous periodical
rains have been insufficient to destroy all vestiges'
of the Guastecas nation. The remains of the
pyramids, the quantities of obsidian weapons, the
idols, and the utensils, toys and ornaments in finely
worked clay, — all combine to show that the arts
once flourished to a very considerable extent on
this now thinly peopled spot. Some of the vases
yet retain their colours and vitreous glazing, and
* B. Diaz. + Ibid. vol. iv. p. 30.

PANUCO. 61
many are of an earth as light and well baked as
that of Tuscany ; — while the figures, from their sin
gular attitudes and grotesque expression, might
serve as models to the toy-makers of the present
day. The flutes, single and double, with two, three
or four holes, the oddly shaped pipes and whistles,
and the jars modelled into birds, toads, and other
animals — all in Terra cotta *, exhibit as much hu
mour as ingenuity, and are found either entire or
broken, in such quantities as to induce a belief
that Panuco was actually a mart for crockery-ware.
I learnt also that at a Rancho, called Calondras,
about nine leagues from the town, some very inter
esting objects of antiquity are to be met with, si
tuated on the side of a hill covered with wild pines.
The principal of these is a large oven-like chamber,
on the floor of which a great number of the flat
stones, similar to those still used by women in
grinding maize, were found, and can even now be
procured. It is only in the month of May that
this place is accessible ; as the pines being dry,
* Loza de Barro.

62 INDIAN POPULATION.
may then be burned from the face of the hill. It
is conjectured that these stones, with a quantity of
other imperishable articles of household furniture
long since removed, had been deposited in the cave
on some flight of the Indians, as being too heavy
for further removal.
There still exist at Panuco two Indian " co-
munidades*," amongst whom the Guastec lan
guage, to the almost total exclusion of the Spanish,
is spoken. These poor people live unmixed with
the whites, who amount to 1500 persons, and who
may be called the fixed population. During the
unhealthy months many families come here from
Tampico ; and in the dry season Panuco is a kind
of watering-place, to which people resort for the
Families. Souls.
* These are Tansalichok, containing . 138 = 525
Tanquinam  78 = 283
At Tanjuco, nine leagues from Panuco, )
and appertaining to its Cure, are also j 246 = 909
Making a total pure Indian population of 909 : a fearful dimi
nution from a nation which according to report once amount
ed to 100,000.

PANUCO. 63
purpose of bathing, the river here being more free
from Caymans than at any other part. For such
families as choose to devote a little trouble and ex
pense to decency, small spaces are staked off near
the banks, and lightly covered with palm branches :
but such niceties are not much attended to ; both
sexes bathe without scruple at the same time,
and many of the young women swim extremely
well. The town is situated on the southern bank of
the river, and was at this time of year at an
elevation of thirty feet above it; but in a more
advanced period of the rainy season, which had
now commenced, the waters frequently inundate the
streets ; and it has more than once happened, that
canoes have plied there. Many of the houses are
comparatively good, but by far the greater propor
tion are of split bamboo, plastered with mud, and
thatched with the fan palm, which is also the co
vering of the best buildings. There is neither a
school nor any other public establishment in the
town.

64 woods.
It would perhaps be difficult even in this univer
sally lethargic country, to find a more listless, idle
set of half-sleepy people than those of Panuco,
who for the greater part are Creoles. Surrounded
by a soil capable of the highest cultivation, living
near a river absolutely swarming with the finest
fish, they have scarcely a vegetable, and rarely any
other food than Tortillas of maize, and occasion-.
ally a lump of Tasajo or jerked beef. The Siesta
appears to consume half the day, and even speak
ing is an effort to this lazy race. Such as are
obliged to labour in order to save themselves from
starving, obtain their livelihood by cutting dye-
woods to freight the vessels which occasionally come
up the river for a cargo. These woods are the
Moral or Fustic, which sells at four reals the.quin-
tal. Sarsaparilla at two reals the ai'oba, and a
wood called Palo Azul, or Blue Wood, which has
lately been introduced as an article of commerce,
and according to its chemical treatment yields
three or four fine tints. All these are brought in
from the surrounding forests, yet firewood and

PANUCO. 65
charcoal can scarcely be procured in the town.
The latter is sold at an exorbitant price, owing to
the want of energy in the natives, who prefer re
ceiving it by an eighty miles water conveyance
(from Tampico), rather than burning it themselves
within fifty yards from their own town.
There are two churches at Panuco, of which the
largest is an immense thatched barn-like building,
possessing the merit of being so arranged as only
to exhibit one Saint: the Redeemer, however, is
excluded with those which are rejected ! This is a
plan of the Cura, who has determined that the
new cedar altar-piece shall only contain a niche
for the patron, San Esteban, who from the time of
the conquest had been the especial protector of the
town. The church has a large and a small bell,
placed under a little shed in its front ; and on the
opposite side of the Plaza stands the Capilla de
la Virgen de Dolores, which was founded, and
is yet supported, by a body of pious women, who
style themselves " The Sisters of Dolores." They
are secular, and form a kind of female corporation.
VOL. I. F

66 PANUCO.
Each sister pays an annual subscription of thirteen
reals, for which at her decease she has the privi
lege of being buried in the chapel ; and her imme
diate relations receive for her either a shroud or
twelve dollars and a half, with two dozen wax can
dles : the former of these the priest secures for the
benefit of the departed soul, and the latter are burn
ed round the body.
Panuco is considered a very healthy place in
comparison with the other towns on the low lands;
yet the fever and vomito occasionally make their ap
pearance, although with diminished violence. The
temperature is generally said to be very equal, but
hail has sometimes fallen as late as the month of
March. The extreme heat and drought of the dry
season are effectual bars to the cultivation of wheat
and barley ; but maize and rice (although I saw
none of the latter) flourish on the banks of the
river. Beans, chilis (a coarse kind of pea), pom-
pions, with a few sweet and water melons, form I
believe the whole list of cultivated vegetables, with
the exception of the rare cabbages and turnips

RAINS. 67
which I saw in the private gardens. No fruits are
reared for sale ; but the woods are said to abound
in several delicious varieties, which at this season
were not ripe. The little comforts of life are here
very expensive. Wheaten cakes, equalling our
halfpenny rolls, are a medio (three pence) each ;
onions of the bigness of a finger one penny ; and the
only cheap article is the Tasajo or strips of dried
beef, of which three or four yards sell for a medio.
While I was transcribing these few notes under
the frying and not over-fragrant awning of the
canoe, the sky darkened; the air became damp and
sultry as a vapour bath ; myriads of mosquitos flew
under our covering : and as we were led to expect
a heavy storm, we tied our canoe to the bough of
a mangrove-tree, and awaited its coming. 1 had
never before been actually exposed to a regular
Mexican shower; and this soon most effectually
cooled my curiosity, as it far exceeded every
thing I could have expected. Tremendous thun
der and very vivid lightning burst from the
dense black clouds ; a heavy squall swept across
v 2

68 RAINS.
the forest, as though it would level the largest
trees ; and tearing off quantities of branches in
its progress, half covered us with the ruin it
had caused. The rain now came down in tor
rents; the canoe was nearly filled, and every
thing was set afloat ; while as we sat shivering up
to our knees in the water, the swarms of mosqui-
tos, ungrateful for the shelter which the awning
afforded them, stung us almost to madness.
When enabled to advance again, I continued
taking soundings and bearings of the river till
we came to a low sandy shoal crossing the whole
stream, and having but four feet of water on its
deepest part. These low soundings, which conti
nued about half a mile, then deepened to three fa
thoms. This bar is five miles above Panuco, and
is an effectual impediment to the further advance
of vessels of burthen. Being a hard sand, it is more
than probable that it never very materially alters
its position ; and in the rainy season, if any vessel
had the hardihood to attempt the passage, there
would be found an increased depth of twenty or

river panuco; 69
thirty feet : but it would be a hazardous and fool
hardy attempt, and its accomplishment could have
no beneficial results. Panuco, therefore, may be
considered as the highest navigable point for any
vessel but canoes.
April 20. — To my great joy the sun burst
through the gloomy black clouds which had again
threatened us ; and as the thin gray vapours of the
morning vanished beneath its rays, we had the
promise of a fine, that is to say, a scorching day.
Walking on the flowery bank by the river side,
under the shade of the overhanging trees, the ca
noe sailed abreast of us before a light breeze ; and
we shot some Cojolites, — dark- coloured birds, of
the gallinaceous tribe, nearly equalling a hen tur
key in size, and very delicate eating. We purchased
a large kettle of milk at an Indian hut, and then
pushed on for the pretty Rancho of Miradores, si
tuated near a ferry called the " Paso Real," at
which mules are swam over on the route from
San Luis to Panuco. Near the Rancho hut were a
number of high poles driven firmly into the ground

70 RIVER PANUCO.
and supporting several long spars, over which some
thousand yards of Tasajo were hung in long coils,
to dry in the sun. We procured some yards of
the beef to cook with our birds ; and in the mean
time an Indian woman washed our clothes in the
river, and dried them on the sandy beach. In the
hut I saw the hides of three light red deer, which
had been killed amongst the domestic cattle, with
whom they frequently associate. The number and
variety of butterflies seen on this day was quite
astonishing ; we frequently observed several square
yards entirely covered with them. They always
appeared to assemble in communities of the same
colour ; and none which differed in tints and size
ever associated together, or varied the uniformity
of the bright patches, which resembled little beds
of flowers. Soon after leaving the Paso, we observed a large
black mass near the top of a high bank, which the
canoe-men said was a " snake with four nostrils,"
{culebra de quatro narices). I twice fired at, and
fancied I had hit it, for it seemed to shake as if in

RIVER PANUCO. 71
pain; but it crawled into a hole before I could climb
up to it, and I observed that the body was about
eight feet in length and as bulky as a large orange.
At noon the temperature was 84° in the shade.
Gliding slowly through the stream we shot a Co-
jolite, and for the third or fourth time I killed two
vultures for specimens ; but, as on all former oc
casions, I gave up the attempt of preserving them,
for it is quite impossible to convey any idea how
very offensive they are. In the woods I found a
tree bearing the remains of a quantity of Anona,
on which the parrots, screaming around in all di
rections, had been for some time feasting.
Since leaving Panuco, the banks of the river had
much changed in appearance, being now very steep
and in many places destitute of wood. Fan Palms
frequently usurped the place of other trees, and
whole groves of them were at times to be seen
without a trunk of any other kind amongst them.
In the evening we shot some of the "Patos Reales"
(royal ducks), which equal the Muscovy breed in
size. They are of a glossy black, and the male has

72 RIVER PANUCO.
a large white patch on the wing coverts. These birds
are remarkable for perching on lofty trees, on the
large branches of which they prefer roosting, to
settling on the ground. Heavy clouds collected at
sunset, and in the night we were drenched with
their contents, and also much tormented by the
mosquitos. April 21. — The morning was fine, and we land
ed as the day broke to cook our breakfast and dry
our clothes. Here we procured one of the beautiful
birds called Calandria, whose plumage is composed
of the most richly brilliant yellow and a deep black.
It builds, or rather weaves its purse- like nest from
the extreme of a slender branch, where it 'swings
about with every wind that blows. We obtained
one of these curious bags, and found in its bottom
part another nest, in which were two white eggs
about the size of those of the chaffinch, and irre
gularly marked with spots of deep brown.
I had observed on these two last days that the
river owing to the heavy rains had increased con
siderably, and its current had acquired in the cen-

TANJUCO. 73
tre the velocity of about three miles an hour.
Shoals now became more frequent, and the water
was so turbid that it could not be drunk until
it had stood some minutes to allow the mud to sub
side. At sunset we arrived at the bottom of a little
ravine, above which, at about half a mile from the
river, stands the small Indian village of Tanjuco.
A large bevy of Indian girls were standing half
naked and splashing each other in the river as we
approached the shore, but soon after ran off in a
hurry, laughing and talking very rapidly in the
Guasteca language, which I now heard for the first
time. One of the canoe-men with great difficulty
procured for us admission into a hut ; and we were
most thankful for such shelter, although one half
the room was occupied by the gear and pack-sad
dles of mules, and by the riding furniture of about
a dozen Rancheros. Their saddles were all mount
ed across two long beams, with the large wooden
stirrups hanging a sufficient depth below them to
knock our heads whenever we moved. Four hens
with broods of chickens, and three others which

74 TANJUCO.
were sitting on their eggs, occupied various snug
corners. Some half-dried beef in long odorife
rous festoons dangled on one side, while on an
other were suspended, to dry, three raw deer
skins, and the hide of a Puma or American lion.
The place swarmed with mosquitos, and I went
supperless to bed under my gauze curtain. My
two men, who had no such luxury, were soon
driven out to the open air, where they covered
themselves in their blankets, and lay in company
with our landlord (who was the Indian Alcalde),
his wife, children, dogs and pigs, on the dusty
ground. Soon after my candle was put out, an Indian
and his wife came to sleep in my room, which I
now discovered was a kind of general head-quar
ters for travellers; and all the dogs of the esta
blishment entering also, carried off several good
things which I had hoped to have cooked for the
morrow's breakfast.
April 22. — I had found the river so much swollen
and so very rapid on account of the recent rains,

ROUTE FROM TANJUCO. 75
that our large canoe could make but little way
against it; and it was evident that a whole fort
night would have been required to reach San Juan,
the limit to which I wished to extend my exami
nation: I therefore determined to ride there, and
descend the stream in a small canoe. Soon after
noon I set out on mules with Manuel one of the
boatmen, and an Indian to bring back the cattle,
leaving my people to the care of the Alcalde until
my return.
On quitting Tanjuco, we entered the thicket,
where two red deer crossed our path. As far as the
turnings of our route through the closely- woven wil
derness would admit of my judging, we made about
a south course, and at five came to a small cluster
of deserted huts called " Tantajou," near which
were several trees bearing a most delicately fra
grant flower named " Flor de Rosal." In form it
resembles a large white lily, but grows in clusters
of a dozen or more on the same stalk. In half an
hour, having come south fifteen miles, we reached a
pass of the river called " Paso de Tantajo ; " and I

76 ROUTE FROM TANJUCOi
here witnessed a most unpleasant mode of ferrying.
We embarked in' a very small canoe, about two
feet and a half in width, with our saddles and my
little luggage, having with the " canoero" four
men. Holding the halters of our four animals,
we pulled them by main force into the stream, — an
Operation which very nearly upset the frail hol
low trunk in which we sat : but the mules soon re
covered from their first alarm ; and although the
stream was very rapid, they struck out boldly, and
towed us in a short time to the opposite bank.
Paying two reals for the passage of ourselves and
animals, we rode forward through an extensive
. Rancho, in which for three or four miles no other
trees than Fan Palms were to be seen. They were
thickly scattered over a large plain, where the
coarse rank grass was so high that the backs of
the cattle which fed amongst it were scarcely dis
cernible. Having ridden south-west six or seven miles, we
arrived after dark at six or eight poor huts called
" Tanquichi," where for some time we could not

TANOUICHI. 77
find a living soul, or even a dog to bark at us. At
length we stumbled over a naked Indian lying on
his back on the ground, and fanning the clouds of
mosquitos from him with a cloth, — the thick smoke
of a little wood fire which was placed to windward
being insufficient to keep off these tormentors.
I may here notice a singular custom which I ob
served amongst the Indians and Rancheros in this
little excursion; which was, that where the mos
quitos were most abundant and tormenting, they
invariably lay down stripped of their shirt; and
our canoe-men made a constant practice of this,
fanning themselves, — and I verily believe in their
sleep, — all night. Our naked friend muttered a
drowsy assent to the mules being tied to a corner
of his hut, and to our lying down wherever we
could, or following his cool example. But the wo
men who were withinside resisted all our intreaties
that they would give us something to eat ; and no
promise of money could induce them even to make
us a Tortilla.
April 23. — Having been half-devoured by the

78 FOREST.
mosquitos, by four a.m. on the 23rd we once more
pursued our route through the woods. Many of
the trees were of an immense size; and the Ban
yans in particular were quite enormous, with their
several gigantic trunks supporting the monstrous
branches from which they had originally descended
as slender suckers. I here met with a variety of
the Fan Palm seventy or eighty feet in height, but
exceedingly thin in the stem, answering in appear
ance to the Betel-tree of the East. It is called
Palma Real, and is in much request for beams and
supports in houses. The people pointed out to
me several wild fruits, none of which were ripe;
and the ground in many places was strewed with
that of the Ojite, the kernel of which the Indians
boil as a substitute for maize in times of scarcity.
It is a round reddish pulpy fruit, of the size of a
large gooseberry, but quite smooth. In taste it is
rather sweet and insipid ; and it contains one seed
or kernel, resembling an acorn in consistency,
quite round, and no larger than a black-heart
cherry. The tree which produces this fruit is very

SAN VICENTE. 79
large, and apparently an evergreen ; its leaves not
unlike those of the Laurestinus, and they cojisti-
tute the fodder of horses and domestic cattle both
at Tampico and Panuco, where grass cannot easily
be procured.
We met several Indians with baskets of Ojite-
berries, who were going with their families to San
Vicente to hear mass and keep holiday. I ob
served in many places in the woods little rural
crosses constructed of the branches of trees, and
placed at the entrances or turnings of the little path
ways. Here and there a large crucifix would be
seen in some conspicuous place; and all were
crowned with garlands of wild flowers by the pass
ing Indians, who had on this day renewed several
of these beautifully simple ornaments, although
many bore chaplets of woven palm-leaves which
had long since faded.
We arrived before seven at the village of San
Vicente, at which all the neighbouring population
were assembled for church, and to be idle and
happy. I went to the hut of the Alcalde, the rally-

80 SAN VICENTE.
ing point of all the Rancheros, whose horses were
tied to the posts which supported the roof. As the
house was full of gossiping acquaintance, I met
with no encouragement to enter it ; and therefore
sat down with as much patience as I could com
mand, Manuel having resolved to hear mass. By
way of diverting the intermediate time, I per
formed my toilette in public ; shaving and washing
myself, to the great edification of a numerous won
dering assemblage of people who surrounded'me,
and who very rarely themselves performed these
operations. In due time I obtained some Tortillas
and Tasajo, and then went to see the church, the
exterior of which I had previously taken a sketch of.
It was a long mud barn, not even white-washed ;
a poverty of appearance which could in no way take
from its sanctity as a place of worship : but it was
filled with at least a hundred of the most horrid
figures I ever saw, painted in gaudy colours, and
varying in size from very small dolls to that of a
half-grown person. One figure of our Saviour
with a large brown wig was seated on a child's

SAN VICENTE. 81
toy horse, exactly of the kind which our English
children play with, having straight legs, and the
head and curved neck cut out of a flat board. This
was by no means the worst figure to be seen : — but
I will not dwell on the disgusting appearance of
the monsters which met my eye; such, in fact,
that had a strange people visited this church, they
would not have hesitated to consider the worship
pers as idolaters. I can only say, that hitherto I
have neither seen an original or a picture of the
Mexican deities at the time of the Conquest, more
abhorrent or absurd than the idols in the Romish
church of San Vicente.
The Rancheros, who could not imagine what
business had brought me so far out of the usual
route, were very urgent that I should exhibit
the goods and other articles I had brought for
sale ; and made offers for my gun, jacket, and in
fact every thing belonging to me. On finding that
I had no marketable goods, they would scarcely
believe that a wish merely to see the Rio San Juan
could have brought me so far.
VOL. i. g

82 SAN VICENTE.
The curiosity and suspicions of the Alcalde were
so greatly excited, that he demanded my passport,
observing, that " no man would ride up the banks
of a river merely to descend it again by a canoe,
unless he had some other object in view." I there
fore showed him a Custom-house paper, which, as
he was no scholar, was quite sufficient passport for
me. To escape further question I rambled over to a
party of Indians, who under a large tree in the
middle of the village were holding a kind of Sun
day's fair. Their goods (which were spread on the
grass) consisted of variously dyed locks of wool,
wrappers, belts, and bad European trinkets ; and
there were several parties who sold small cakes,
plantains, cheeses, sugar, and other wares.
The whole of these people and the crowd which
surrounded them were loitering away the day,
and looking forward to a night fandango. After
waiting until near noon, it was announced that
the Francisca who was to perform mass was sick,
and that no service was to take place. The care

SAN JUAN. S3
of this reverend man consists of about one hun
dred souls in San Vicente and the surrounding
Ranchos ; but the Pueblo or village itself does not
contain above thirty or forty scattered huts. Ri
ding seven miles we arrived at the Rancho of San
Juan. The Alcalde of San Vicente, who, I discovered,
had been cross-questioning Manuel, and had come
to the conclusion that I was a very important per
sonage, overtook us on the road, and gave me his
company to the Rancho. He obligingly pointed
out to me several varieties of trees which I wished
to see ; and as our whole road lay through his pro
perty, he did this with the greater pleasure, show
ing me how rich he was in cedars, helping to cut
a stick from the " Ule " or Indian-rubber tree,
and making me acquainted with several good
woods for dyeing. Some of the timber was of an
immense size; but many large trunks near the
road side stood dead and leafless, from having
been stripped of their bark by the Indians for the
purpose of tanning leather. I found the little
G-2

84 SAN JUAN.
Rancho of San Juan a beautiful and retired spot :
about two dozen huts lay scattered amongst the
fine trees, and groups of cattle were straying in
the long grass or sleeping in the shade of the
thicket. Every thing bespoke quiet and comfort ;
and the simple-mannered natives appeared happy
and contented in their removal from the more
busy world. I obtained an entire room to myself,
with a large massive table placed in a kind of
holy nook, which is to be found in almost every
hut in the country. In this corner may usually
be seen some dozen rough and extraordinary
prints, or attempts at paintings, of scriptural, or
more properly monkish subjects, pasted thickly on
the wall; from this is sometimes seen projecting
a painted bracket for the candle, which on feast-
days is burnt before the favourite saint. Cruci
fixes innumerable, palm branches, dust and cob
webs, generally make up the array, with not un-
frequently those clusters of wasps' nests* which are
so common in even the better class of dwellings.
* They vary in size from ofthat a walnut to half a small apple,

SAN JUAN. 85
The mistress of my room (who lived in a hut
opposite) soon discovered that I was hungry, and
sent me some palmito root very nicely prepared
for my dinner. — This is the tender heart of the
young fan palm before it has acquired any stem,
and is about the size and thickness of a man's leg.
It is very excellent when cooked, and even while
raw has an agreeable flavour somewhat sweeter
than that of a white cabbage, which it much re
sembles in crispness and consistency.
I found in the hut the skins of two leopards
which had been killed in the Rancho. I also fish
ed out an imperfect piece of sculpture, bearing
some resemblance to the lion-figure-head of a
ship, and heard of several more at an ancient city
some few leagues distant called " Quai'-a-lam."
I had never until this day seen that trouble
some insect a " Nigua," or Jigger, and then saw
mid are built entirely of clay, in the manner of the swallow's
nest. Each, according to its size, contains a number of little
cells for the larvae of the wasp, which are plastered up untit
they have strength enough to burst iheir passage out.

86' SAN JUAN.
quite enough of them in the toes and feet of a
poor little pot-bellied Indian orphan belonging to
the house, and comptroller of the hens and chick
ens. He was sitting with one leg under him like
a China Joss, and the other stretched forward into
the lap of a girl, who with a blunt needle was ex
tracting the nests of these insects, which are in
closed in tough white bags sometimes equalling a
rape-seed in size. During this operation the boy
never winced, so that from his apparent apathy I
concluded him to be an idiot ; but the poor thing
was weakly and ill, and every part of him but his
prodigious belly had been wasted away by the
fever which carried off his parents. He appeared
to take a great fancy to me, — I verily believe from
my having made so many compassionate faces for
him when I saw the girl tearing his toes; so I
gave him a medio, which was the first money he
had ever possessed, and he in gratitude sat and
stared at me all the evening. I was much amused
by the way in which I obtained information as to
the age of this " Cristiano," who himself knew

SAN JUAN. 87
nothing of the matter : but a woman hearing the
inquiry, told him in the language of a farrier to
show his teeth, — and pronounced him to be six
years old.
I believe that every woman and the greater part
of the men of the Rancho came at different times
in the evening to see my watch and writing-case,
neither of which curiosities had ever before been
exhibited in San Juan. The watch was a machine
of which all had heard; but their astonishment on
hearing it tick and seeing its wheels in motion,
was really as great as I ever saw displayed by
either Negroes or Esquimaux ; yet these people
were almost all white, and the descendants of Spa
niards. A venerable old Ranchero whose opinions seem
ed to carry great weight, remarked, that " it was
a folly (toirferia) to give a number of dollars for
a thing just to know how many hours it was
from morning or night; — that to know when to
eat and drink, when to get up or lie down to
rest, was quite sufficient :" a remark which with

88 SAN JUAN.
these primitive people met with very general ap
proval. Offers were made to purchase every thing
belonging to me ; — a mano of paper, buttons, any
article whatsoever ; my visitors being pursuaded
that I could come for no other purpose than to
trade.. The poor people at San Juan have no means of
procuring foreign clothing, arms, or utensils, but
by sending down the river to Tampico; and they
are in consequence obliged to pay so exorbitant
ly, that the presents I made them of paper, a pencil,
and other trifles, gave them a high opinion of my
generosity. It is remarkable that there are no mosquitos at
this place, although above and below it, and in
fact in almost the whole vicinity of the river, they
are exceedingly numerous1 and tormenting. I
know not to what cause their absence may be attri
buted, as the temperature, the relative situation
and the soil, are precisely the same as at those
places most infested.
April 24. — On waking in the morning I found

SAN JUAN. 89
my landlady's daughter standing by my side
with sweet bread, and coffee boiled with milk and
the pure expressed juice of the sugar-cane, — a
preparation I have never seen excelled as a break
fast. I then joined a party of Rancheros who
had assembled to kill a cow and cut her flesh
into tasajo, — an operation which they performed
with extraordinary skill and dispatch, separating
the sinews from the flesh with anatomical preci
sion. Two men devoted themselves to cutting the
meat into long strings or ropes, which they threw
to another who rubbed them well with salt : after
this, no other process remained but to hang the
beef in festoons over long poles to dry in the sun.
I breakfasted with the Rancheros, when their
work was done, on dry meat with Chili sauce and
piping hot tortillas served up in rapid succession.
Our second course was a dish of cow's blood
stewed with sweet herbs : and having prefaced our
meal by a glass of white brandy distilled in the
Rancho, we all ate heartily. When the meal was
over, a little boy who had waited on us kneeled

90 RETURN BY THE RIVER SAN JUAN.
down facing the picture corner of the room, and
recited a prayer and thanks to the Virgin *. My
companions devoutly crossed themselves, and
then proceeded to examine my curiosities. They
were wild good-natured fellows, with unshaven
chins and greasy leather clothes; and we formed
a most merry group, I being delighted to have it
in my power to amuse them.
After very great difficulty I procured a canoe ;
but as it had not been in the water for two years,
the bottom was split and in sad condition. With
petroleum and slips of wood, however, we put all
to rights, and at 4 p. m. started on our return
* This simple and sincere act of devotion is very general
amongst the country people, who hear the grace recited by
the youngest person in company, or by a man-servant if they
have one. All then cross themselves, and bowing right and
left salute their neighbours with " Bon provecho !" (Much
good may it do you!) I had a servant who never omitted
this ceremony at my frugal meals as I travelled through the
country; and although his prayer was in Latin, rapidly uttered,
and neither understood by himself or his master, it was an
act of unaffected piety which I respected too much to inter
fere with, even though he frequently invoked the protection
of Our Lady of Guadalupe, and sometimes that of Scfior
San Francisco.

RETURN BY THE RIVER SAN JUAN. 91
for Tanjuco, Manuel and a young Indian taking
the paddles.
I left my old landlady and the pretty Rancho
with regret, having met with great kindness and
attention from the one, and found rest from the
mosquitos in the other. I gave my hostess at
parting a white neckcloth and a pair of scissars;
and carried off many good wishes, with a large
supply of tortillas and stewed meat and a bottle of
white brandy; for all which, with the subsistence
of Manuel and myself for two days, I only paid
about six shillings.
It may be requisite here to explain, that much
of the details of courses and situations of Ranchos
and particular points is omitted in this Journal, in
which my object is merely to relate my personal
adventures. Near San Juan the river is narrow, extremely
turbid, and full of impetuous eddies and rapids, in
which many sunken trees just show their situation
by the water breaking over them. The people
managed the canoe very well in this troubled na-

92 alligator's nest.
vigation ; and at night-fall we hung the boat to a
grounded tree in the middle of the stream, and
slept until daylight very comfortably, the canoe
exactly fitting us in width and length.
April 25. — While shooting an impetuous and
turbulent rapid, we whirled past the nose of a
large cayman which lay basking on the sunny
bank. It was the first which had appeared for
many days ; and as we were swept unresistingly
with the stream amongst the shoals and stumps of
timber, I could not but feel how very unpleasant
it would be to upset the canoe and to find oneself
in the same element with the creature we had
just passed.
My patience became exhausted by sitting for
many hours in one posture to maintain my equi
librium, under a temperature of 109°; but I was
at last somewhat consoled by finding an alligator's
nest with thirty-nine eggs. It is the custom
of the caymans to select some sunny sandy
beach, in which they bury their eggs, piling
a large heap of sand above them. They then

alligator's nest. 93
leave their offspring to be hatched by the heat of
the sun, although, as the Indians informed me, they
keep " a register in their head," and return at the
expiration of thirty days, when their newly produced
little ones are ready to be taken on the mother's
back and receive their first lessons in swimming.
The idea that the alligator devours her young if
she can catch them, is denied by the Indians, who
on the contrary declare her to be very kind to
them. I should like to have seen in what way the
maternal solicitude of one of these horrid crea
tures is shown ; for a nursing alligatress must be a
great curiosity. The eggs are about the size of
those of our domestic ducks, but bearing a highly
enamelled surface. At each end they are translu
cent, but an opake white band encircles the mid
dle, which appears to have a dividing membrane
across it. The yolk also resembles that of a duck's
egg, but has a slight flavour of musk, and the
white is nearly of the consistence of jelly. On the
border of the river I shot a small eagle, of that
species which, according to the Indians, preys

94 RIVER SAN JUAN.
upon serpents. In landing for my bird, I crossed
the recent track of a leopard which had been
drinking in the stream, and in a few minutes killed
two fine turkeys. We this day, at various times,
had passed a great number of Indians, who were
bathing in the river by whole families at a time,
which appears to be their morning and evening-
custom; and all those who live near the stream
are very clean both in their persons and clothes.
Boats laden with articles for the Tampico market
continually enlivened the scene ; and it was highly
amusing to observe the politeness of the passing
Indians, who used the " Don" and pulled off their
hats very ceremoniously to each other on every
occasion, paying a variety of rapidly uttered com
pliments at the same time. The seiioras and seno-
ritas who sat washing themselves or their clothes
in the river, received the most marked respect.
Many a brown flat-visaged man, with a quarter
of a pair of breeches and a straw hat, was hailed
as " Don ;" while inquiries were made after the
health of the sefiora and the young ladies, who in

RIVER SAN JUAN. 95
some instances answered for themselves as they
were disporting in the water near the banks, and
just showing their shining brown shoulders and
immensely long jetty hair, while they swam in
those places unfrequented by the alligators.
At sunset we passed the entrance of the small
river Tempoal, which flows into the San Juan from
the S. S. E., and whose perfectly transparent water
formed a curious contrast with the muddy stream
in which we were paddling. We landed for the
night on a little sandy point, where myriads of
mosquitos hailed our arrival with the most raptu
rous humming; but we kept them at bay for a
time, by making a large fire to scare the lions
and tigers *, of which the canoe-men had, I think,
very groundless fears. We here cooked our supper
and broiled some ears of maize, on which we made
an excellent meal; and then resigned our persons
to the hungry insects, which in their turn fared
* The puma, and a large species of leopard are so distin
guished by the native Mexicans, who have no idea of the
existence of more ferocious animals of these names.

96 RIVER SAN JUAN.
most sumptuously. It may not be amiss to state
here, that by determining never to rub a mosquito
bite, — inflammation, swelling, and a great stock of
extra pain may be avoided. The people, in con
sequence of having scratched themselves, returned
covered with sores, while I on the contrary, hav
ing refrained from this indulgence, retained scarce
ly a mark *.
April 26. — We pursued our journey at day
break, and I soon forgot my sufferings in the
pleasure of shooting four turkey-cocks. I saw
also a great number of rabbits, cojolites, doves and
other birds, as we glided down the river; but I
was too rich in turkeys to pay any attention to
them, and was anxious to reach Tanjuco before
night. * All my experience of these tormentors proved to me
that they have not degenerated since the time of the Con-
quest; when Bernal Diaz most pathetically describes them,
and almost ranks them with the Indians, saying that in addi
tion to the natives, " habia muchos murcielagos, e chinches y
mosquitos, e todo les daba guerra " (there were also many
bats and bugs and mosquitos, all of which made war upon
the soldiers).

RIVER SAN JUAN. 97
At noon we passed some high cliffs, which being
of a reddish earth are called Tierra Colorada.
They are but scantily wooded, and are said to be
the favourite resort of pumas, leopards, jackals,
and the jabali or Mexican hog.
At twelve miles above Tanjuco and fifty-nine
above Panuco we passed the junction of the river
Tamoin * with the San Juan, where their com
bined streams receive the same name, and flow to
the sea as the Rio Panuco. After stopping for a few
minutes at the Rancho of Bichinchijol to procure
some sour curds and sugar from a sweetheart of
Manuel's, we made the best of our way to Tanjuco
which we reached at 4 p. m.
In this little excursion I had fully verified the.
assertions of my boatmen as to the difficulty of
ascending the river in our large canoe, the rapids
being so strong that even our small one had
passed some of them with considerable risk. After
the recent rains the current had become very im-
* Here about sixty yards in width, the united stream is
about one hundred and fifty.
VOL. 1. H

98 RIVER PANUCO.
petuous, and the quantity of sunken trees which
lie in the narrow parts of the river renders the
navigation difficult and dangerous.
As far as my hasty visit would permit me to
judge, the only point to which laden boats of any
size could ascend with safety is Tanquichi, about
thirty miles below San Juan ; whence, should any
commerce turn that way, mules could always be
procured to any other part of the country, the
paths through the forests and thickets being said
to be very good.
From San Juan to Tanjuco, by the most accu
rate compass bearings and estimated distances, is
seventy-eight miles, in which distance the river
takes no less than one hundred and six very ab
rupt turnings. The general width of the Panuco
is from half a mile to one hundred yards ; that of
the San Juan is in many places much narrower.
At forty-six miles above Tanjuco and ninety-three
from Panuco, the Rio Tempoal joins the San
Juan. I found that my two Englishmen had been very

TANJUCO. 99
kindly treated by the Indians, with whom they
had made themselves on excellent terms, although
neither party understood one word that the other
said. Owing to the arrival of a kind of pedlar
with dresses and various articles for sale, there
had been great doings and fandangos in the village
every night, the strangers always being invited to
join the dancers under a large shed, which acted
as a cow- and sheep-house by day, and was trans
formed into a ball-room at night. The old Alcalde
made a point of being very drunk and important
on all these occasions, and no dancing took place
until he thought proper to fire his musket, which
was the anxiously awaited signal for the merri
ment to commence.
Tanjuco does not contain above twenty very
miserable huts, well stocked with naked children
and pigs ; and as it has not a single white inhabi
tant, and very few speak or understand a word of
Spanish, it may be considered as a good specimen
of what the Indian towns were at the time of the
Conquest. The huts are still built of stakes and
h2

100 RETURN TO PANUCO.
bamboos, and thatched with palm leaves. No
traces of Christianity are to be seen, the nearest
church being nine leagues distant, at Panuco ; and
the perfect mildness and simplicity of the natives
not a little favours the resemblance to the settle
ments of which the early writers have given us a
description. April 27. — We left the village early in the
morning, having laid in a large store of water
melons ; a luxury of which the value can only be
estimated under a temperature of 90° in the shade,
or rather under the reflected heat of our hide-
awning. Passing a steep cliff, fifteen miles from any vil
lage, we observed a quantity of earthenware to be
mingled with its clay ; and one of the canoe-men
discovered a small crockery-ware leg protruding
itself. After securing this, at a few yards further
we picked out the body of a curious little female
figure, also in terra cotta.
Having now no further bearings to take, we
slept and drove with the current; and soon after

RIVER PANUCO. 101
noon on the 28th arrived at Panuco, where two
American schooners and a Campeachy brig were
lying at anchor ; the latter discharging a cargo of
salt, for which there is great demand by the peo
ple who prepare Tasajo. Waiting until the cool of
the evening, we again dropped down the river.
April 29. — At breakfast-time on the following
morning we landed at Tamanti to purchase some
milk and half a stone goddess, of which I had
heard at Panuco, and which was a heavy load for
the four men who carried her to the canoe. She
now has the honour of associating with some Egyp
tian idols in the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford.
We landed a second time for a supply of the clus
tering limes which hung invitingly over the stream ;
and then paddling all night, cheered by the pro
spect of a bed and fewer mosquitos, we arrived
early on the morning of the 30th at Las Tamau
lipas, where the gentleman whose return from
Real del Monte I had been directed to await, had
arrived two days before me. On returning to my
old quarters, I found that I had sustained a sad

102 RIVER PANUCO.
loss in upwards of one hundred carefully prepared
specimens of birds, which my servant and I had
at various leisure moments procured with great
exposure to the burning climate. The small black
larvae of some prolific moth had got amongst them
in prodigious numbers, and even the scaly skin
of the alligator had not escaped their destructive
ravages. Unfortunately for my repose after my expedi
tion, I found that the Commandant with a large
party of his officers had engaged themselves to
dine on board the Company's brig. Fatigue and
a head-ache pleaded my excuse for not joining
them; but in the evening they became so very
drunk and clamorous for me, that I was obliged
to comply, and was almost immediately forced to
accompany them in their boat to the other town.
My companions now began splashing each other;
next they proceeded to bale hats-full of water in
all directions ; and finally, when we reached the
spot where the caymans most abound, they amused
themselves by throwing somersets into the river,

TAMPICO. 103
an operation which nearly drowned a poor old
captain lineally descended from one of the Con-
quistadores. I now thought proper to interfere,
and made the crew land at a place half a league
from the town ; a distance I shall well remember,
as it fell to my lot to carry old Garibai to his
house, an effort from which I did not recover for
many days.
May 1. — His Majesty's ship Tweed having an
chored off the Bar, I went on board, and paid a
longer visit to Captain Hunn than I had antici
pated ; for a summer norther set in with a very
heavy sea, and I was unable to land until the 3rd,
when the Tweed sailed again.
May 4. — I accompanied a large party to Tam
pico on the afternoon of the 4th, in order to be
present at the ceremonies of the Feast of Ascen
sion. For some previous days the natives from
every part of the surrounding country had been
flocking in to assist at this annual and most im
portant festival. The towns of Pueblo Viejo and

104 FEAST OE ASCENSION.
Las Tamaulipas were almost forsaken, and we
found the little village of Tampico crowded with
many thousand people in their gala dresses. The
Plaza was filled by booths containing clothing,
trinkets, toys, cakes and other articles, just in the
manner of our country fairs, but there were also
several gaming-tables under canopies. The Com
mandant with two companies of his troops in
their best uniforms were also there, and the whole
scene was really very lively and interesting.
At three o'clock the two bells of the Parroquia
tolled rapidly; and the crowd gathering round
the church, we entered with them to where the
old priest stood by the tawdry crucifix of which I
have already spoken, in order that he might touch
the leg of the image with ribbons and crosses
which were brought to be thus sanctified as reli-
quias in return for an offering proportioned to the
zeal of the giver. Some therefore subscribed very
largely ; and a heavy dollar thrown from the hand
of a poor Indian, who perhaps did not possess an-

FEAST OF ASCENSION. 105
other in the world, would frequently jingle amongst
the lighter contributions of less pious Christians.
Many obtained " Indulgencias" by kissing the
newly painted thigh of the statue ; and it was not
until the subscription ceased, that the figure was
lifted and carried from the church on the shoulders
of voluntary bearers habited in white robes.
At this awful moment a ship is annually seen by
the eyes of the Faithful, far away in the offing,
bringing, to bless the solemnities, that Christ whose
miraculous image is moving in procession ! Hun
dreds now leapt upon the walls near the church,
with open mouths and straining eyes, to look out
upon the distant horizon; but none of those
whom I questioned would venture to affirm that
they actually saw the ship. The image was pa
raded round the whole town, preceded by two
men, who gratuitously read aloud before it. The
head of one of these people was too remarkable
not to be noticed, and I observed that he chaunted
with much greater vigour than his companion,
and apparently in a different form of words.

106 FEAST OF ASCENSION.

Further in advance marched a most singularly
assorted band of musicians. There was a harper,
with fifers, abundant Indian rattles, a woman and
several men playing on fiddles, each performing
his own tune. When all was over, the people di
spersed to dance and gamble ; and we rode back
again to the old town. Hundreds of weary wo
men were on the same road, carrying bundles con
taining their holiday finery ; and many who had
worn white satin shoes, silk stockings, and gowns
of the finest French materials, with very rich veils
at the Fiesta, were now returning home bare-footed
and merely in a shirt and petticoat. I could not
but remark throughout the day the very striking
difference between this and our English festivals,

FEAST OF ASCENSION. 107
where all is bustle, noise and activity, though min
gled, it must be confessed, with a few broken heads
and black eyes. Here, an air of quiet lazy happi
ness seemed to pervade all classes. The men and
women sauntered slowly through the village, where
many lay sleeping on mats in the shade, while
others were dispersed in listless smoking groups
under the little awnings of the booths.
On the 7th a vessel arrived with people for the
mines of Catorce, and I received by her several
letters which much affected my future plans in
Mexico. A young gentleman who came in this
vessel was in a dangerous stage of yellow fever,
which he had contracted by sleeping only one night
on shore at Vera Cruz. He died on the 10th. The
Spanish surgeon who was called in, shrugged his
shoulders, and plainly told the patient, even at the
first visit, that his case was hopeless ; nor would
he prescribe any medicines for him, considering
them of no use. Mr. Price, a medical gentleman
attached to the same Company with myself, also
visited the unfortunate invalid, though it was then

108 A MANATI.
too late, and attributed his death in a great mea
sure to the want of proper and timely assistance.
May 12.— The brig of the Real del Monte Com
pany crossed the Bar ; but by the ignorance and
stubbornness of the pilot she tailed on the northern
shoal, and carried away some of her false keel. At
this time the depth over the bar was thirteen feet.
I was fortunate enough on this day, in crossing to
Pueblo Viejo, to see a Manati, or Sea-cow*, which,
having been left by the tide in shoal water, had
been killed and drawn on shore. Its body to the
commencement of the tail was eight feet and a half
in length, and the tail itself, shaped like a broad
paddle, two feet and a half more ; the latter was
quite flat, placed horizontally as in all the ce
taceous animals, and three feet across. The car
case was about equal to that of an ordinary sea
horse or walrus, and might weigh about ten hun
dred weight; and in form, particularly about the
head, it was very similar to that animal. The fins
or arms, of which it had only two, were shaped
* Called also Lamantin : Manatus Americanus, Cuv.

TOWNS OF TAMPICO. 109
much like those of the whale. There were but few
hairs on the skin, which when deprived of the
cuticle greatly resembled in exterior appearance
prepared hog's hide. While wet and recent it was
about an inch in thickness, and I brought away
some thongs, of which I made strong whips.
The flesh, in colour, was like that of a raw tur
key ; the fat not rancid, but on the contrary very
sweet ; and a steak which I cooked tasted so like
well-fed young pork, that the difference could
scarcely have been detected.
In the afternoon our brig sailed for England ;
and I now after a series of most provoking deten
tions prepared to start for the interior.
May 14. — All my accounts were now settled;
and as I was prepared to leave Tamaulipas on the
morrow, I threw together a few notes respecting
this part of the country, which I had omitted to
insert in the course of my diary.
The maps and general opinion would lead stran
gers to imagine that there was but one Tampico,
when in fact there are three towns on the Rio Pa
nuco which bear that name, either singly or com-

110 TOWNS OF TAMPICO.
bined with some other appellation. The first and
most ancient, as its name implies, is Pueblo Viejo
de Tampico, situated on the border of the large
shallow lake which lies to the southward of the
river. This was originally a cluster of the huts of
fishermen, who supported themselves by catching,
in the months of May and June, vast quantities of
a large species of shrimp, which being dried be
came a considerable article of exportation. These
shell-fish are still as abundantly caught as ever, but
for very many years the town has been important in
a mercantile point of view. It is recorded that
Admiral Drake once visited this place, and carried
off all the wealth of the inhabitants *, which in
duced them to found the village now distinguished
by the name of Tampico, and situated on a rising
ground amidst the thickets about seven miles to
the southward. This latter place never arrived
* The memory of this visit has been preserved in a singu
lar way, although I have but little confidence in the authen
ticity of the story. The English sailors are said to have in
troduced to the natives whom they plundered, the method of
making grog, which name having I suppose been too diffi
cult to remember, has been supplanted by that of Drak, in
memory of our English admiral,

TOWNS OF TAMPICO. 1 1 1
at any degree of importance, and Pueblo Viejo
has again become the chief town. It has at pre
sent a population of about 4000 souls, the greater
part of whom owe their subsistence to foreign trade.
The houses are of a very inferior description, but
the shops are many of them well stocked with Eu
ropean commodities. One of these depots bears
the name of " The Deity," and others are no less
blasphemously distinguished. There is a large win
dowless mud church here, which I rarely saw open
ed. The two inns are miserable, dirty and com
fortless ; but from subsequent experience I can de
clare that they are, with the exception of one re
cently opened at Vera Cruz, the very best in the
whole Republic of Mexico.
The market is tolerably well provided with meat,
fruit and vegetables, the latter of which are brought
from a considerable distance up the river in canoes.
Its supply of fish is but little attended to, although
the Rio Panuco abounds in them. Turtle, which
are large and numerous, are not esteemed ; and the
periodical fishery for shrimps is, as I have said, the

112 TOWNS OF TAMPICO.
only thing now attended to. These are taken by
means of wears and large hoop nets, and during
their season the little passages leading from the
river to the lake of Tampico are almost stopped up
by the shrimpers. Game is abundantly supplied to
the market, and consists of ducks, wild turkeys, the
large crested pheasant, chachalacas, cojolites, and
other kinds ; but venison is not often procured.
The vicinity of the shallow lake is considered as
the principal cause of the agues and fevers which
are so prevalent at this place, the water being at
certain seasons so low as to leave extensive muddy
shoals and oyster banks exposed to the burning
rays of the sun. On landing at Pueblo Viejo a
stranger becomes immediately impressed with the
idea of being in an unhealthy place, by seeing the
house-tops covered with flocks of the black disgust
ing-looking carrion vultures, or by finding them
battening on their offensive food in his immediate
path, from whence they are not easily dislodged.
The immediate borders of the lake, and the site
of Pueblo Viejo are remarkable as being formed

TOWNS OF TAMPICO. 113
of a stratum of decomposing oyster-shells, which
is of considerable depth, although the impossibility
of digging below the level of the waters of the lake
in sinking wells, precluded my seeing an extent of
more than twelve feet.
The next town in point of importance, and which
will soon eclipse the other two, is the Pueblo Nue-
vo de las Tamaulipas, situated about three miles
to the northward of the old town, and on the bank
of the river. This, as I have already said, is of very
recent erection, and increasing rapidly, being built
on a neat model, and inviting by its commercial
advantages the removal of the natives from Alta
mira and other parts. There can be little doubt
of this having been the situation of the populous
town which was discovered by Juan de Grijalva
in 1518, when the warlike natives attacked his
ships with so much courage, and were beaten off
with considerable difficulty*. The historians of
* In consequence of the assailants coming to battle in six
teen large canoes, the river at that period obtained the name
of " Rio de Canoas."
VOL. I. I

114 TOWNS OF TAMPICO.
the Conquest of Mexico all agree in saying that
the wars in the country near the Panuco were
carried on by Cortez' soldiers with the greatest
fury; and it is not improbable that the town at
Tamaulipas was the first destroyed by the invaders.
Remains of utensils, statues, weapons, and even
skeletons, have frequently been discovered in dig
ging the foundations of the recently erected build
ings ; and some singularly shaped figures in terra
cotta, which I now have in my possession, bear
the closest resemblance to others I have met with
in more distant provinces.
In the Pueblo Viejo and Pueblo Nuevo the
want of potable water is very severely felt; and the
inhabitants receive their chief supply from the Ta-
mesi, a small stream which branches from the lake
of Altamira, and is about three leagues up the ri
ver Panuco. Large canoes are constantly employ
ed on this business, and it is customary for fami
lies to send relays of small casks according to their
wants. Another great inconvenience is the extreme

TOWNS OF TAMPICO. 115
scarcity and dearness of fodder for horses, which
are fed on the leaves and young branches of a tree
named Ojite, growing in considerable abundance at
some distance in the woods. Notwithstanding the
vicinity of immense herds of cattle, milk is rarely
to be procured at Tampico : fresh butter is never
seen, in consequence of the heat of the climate; and
the only cheese brought to market is an inferior
kind of preparation of curds.
The Tampico towns have very materially risen
in importance since the establishment of Mexican
independence ; and a brisk trade is constantly car
ried on with the United States, whose small vessels
have great facilities in passing over a bar, which
offers a sad impediment to our more weighty mer
chantmen.

i 2

116 FROM LAS TAMAULIPAS

CHAPTER II.
Journey from Las Tamaulipas to San Luis Potosi— Santa
Barbara — Tortillas — Holy Picture of the Virgin — An
cient Building — Tula — Funeral of a Child — Peotillas — San
Luis Potosi — Route from San Luis to Zacatecas — Vino
Mescal — Salt Marshes —Arrival at Veta Grunde of Za
catecas.
A.T seven on the morning of the 15th of May I
left Las Tamaulipas for San Luis Potosi, my party
consisting of my servant and another Englishman,
a native attendant named Flores, with four Ar-
rieros or muleteers, and fifteen mules.
We set out on the road to Altamira, already de
scribed as being through a closely interwoven fo
rest, and at one we reached the little town. The
muleteers deposited their cargoes on an open space
near the Campo Santo, while we placed our saddles
and persons in a roofless hut about half a mile
from the town, in one corner of which a sick In
dian, attended by his wife, was moaning with fever

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 117
and ague, while muleteers, dogs and vermin sur
rounded us. These were inconveniences to which
every traveller in Mexico must endeavour to re
concile himself; since, with the exception of the
high road from Vera Cruz to the capital, he has,
particularly in the northern states, to traverse a
country which may literally be called one conti
nued wilderness.
May 16. — Leaving Altamira at an early hour,
the road was very good, with broad beaten paths
amongst a few scattered thickets. We had not
ridden far when I found two wild hogs (Jabali)
lying by the road side with their heads cleft in two,
as if by the strokes of a hatchet. None of their
flesh had been taken away *, although they were
* It may perhaps be superfluous to remind the reader, that
these animals are mentioned in old books of travels and na
tural history, and still by the natives of the country, as hav
ing their navel on the back. There is a gland on this part
whence issues a secretion, which gives, if the part be not cut
out immediately after death, a most unpleasant flavour to the
flesh ; and it is this peculiarity which has given rise to the
idea of the Peccari, or Mexican Hog, having its navel on the
back.

118 FROM TAMPICO
fat and in good condition; but a large flock of
vultures were enjoying a most savoury repast
upon it.
After a ride of three leagues we arrived at a
solitary hut, " La Potranca, " where we obtained
some curds and whey ; in asking for which I made
an odd mistake, by inquiring of a very old woman
if she had any "Suegro" (father-in-law), instead of
" Suero" (whey). Leaving this place, Flores point
ed out to me in a small thicket, the grave of a
young Frenchman, who about six months before
had shot himself while in a state of delirium caused
by fever.
The country now became rather uneven; the
scenery was more interesting, and enlivened by a
great number of light-coloured hares, which were
running fearlessly near us.
Riding seven leagues we reached an Estero, — a
long narrow pool of turbid water, — of which the ani
mals drank eagerly, the thermometer being 110°
in the sun. In three leagues more we arrived at
a lone hut in the middle of a plain, dignified by

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 119
the name of Guarita*. I decided on resting
here for the night, as my mules were far behind,
and the baggage had to pass an examination by a
custom-house officer and two soldiers. At this
place as well as at almost every other rest we
made, we all slept in the open air, which, what
ever may be reported of its insalubrity, is at this
season far more refreshing and agreeable than
lying under cover. Deer are so very plentiful on
this plain as to be frequently seen in large herds,
going to drink at sunset from a pool of water near
the hut ; the inmates of which said it was too much
trouble to shoot them, although by their own con
fession they rarely enjoyed the luxury of meat with
their Tortillas.
May 17. — Soon after seven we set out, and in
the cool of the morning saw several wild turkeys,
hares, and two varieties of quails. I killed with my
whip one of the beautiful coral snakes reputed to
be so venomous. This reptile was alternately bar-
* Custom-house station.

120 FROM TAMPICO
red with deep red, and black bands of nearly equal
width, the latter being edged with narrow yellow
borders. It was about three feet in length, and
the poison fangs, which I extracted, were very
large. We soon afterwards started a very long
snake, called "Alicante," which is said to be per
fectly innoxious ; but after a chase of half an hour
it escaped us.
In the forenoon the Bernal of Orcasitas (or
Horcasistas) suddenly appeared before us as we
ascended a gentle eminence. It was still very
distant, but the outline of its remarkable summit
appeared distinctly above some light fleecy clouds
which floated round its base.
The intermediate plains covered alternately with
long yellow parched-up grass and low thickets,
rendered this first view of the Bernal very strik
ing. At two leagues from the Guarita we reached
" La Primera Puerta del Chocoyo," a name ap
plied to two hovels, as well as to the gate of a large
inclosed Rancho, communicating at about fifteen
miles on the right with the Hacienda del Cojo.

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 121
Two leagues further westward we reached a nar
row pool of water, called " Charco Largo," and
then passed " La Segunda Puerta" with two other
huts ; after which, in three leagues, we reached the
little Rancho village of Charyssa, — a miserable as
semblage of huts on a most disagreeably dusty
place. The heat in the shade 93°-
Here the Arrieros persuaded me to stop after
our burning dusty ride ; and I unfortunately se
lected for a resting-place a space between two
little mud cabins, in each of which were sick peo
ple, — one old and two young women, who moaned
and talked in a whining half-crying tone all night;
a constant custom with the Mexicans, whether se
riously ill, or only slightly indisposed.
The old lady, to whom I gave a couple of pills
in order to remove her head-ache, very delibe
rately poked one up each nostril, as being nearer
the seat of pain ; but a little explanation procured
their extraction, and insured the transfer to her
mouth. One of my servants too had suffered so much

122 FROM TAMPICO
from the heat of the day, that in the evening a se
vere attack of fever came on ; but a copious bleed
ing, which astonished the natives, and some ap
propriate medicine, arrested its progress. The
arrival of a foreigner was soon rumoured about
the huts; and in consequence many intended
purchasers of paper, knives, trinkets, wine and
clothing, crowded round me, and would scarcely
believe that I had not a pedlar's pack to open for
their inspection.
May 18. — At a mile from the Rancho we cross
ed a small muddy stream named " Rio de Charys-
sa." It was at this season scarcely deep enough
to cover its stony bed, and flowing from the north
ward ultimately joins the Tamoin, which enters
the Rio Panuco. The morning was cool and over
cast, and the majestic Bernal, whose base we had
now approached, reared its rugged head above the
zone of dark gray clouds which floated in dense
masses around it. The only strong light it re
ceived was from an occasional ray of the rising
sun, which gleamed for a time on the edges of the

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 123
clouds, and gave an air of indescribable grandeur
to the scene. Our road led us to the left of the
Bernal, and at about seven miles from its centre ;
so that I was enabled to obtain a good view of it,
which may be better understood by the annexed
outline sketch.

The base stretches about four miles, and rises very
gradually to the centre, from whence an immense
cluster of naked rocks rise to about two thousand
feet above the level of the plain ; while not another
rock or mountain is to be found within at least
thirty miles of the Bernal. The morning soon be
came sultry, the temperature in the shade being
94°, but it was one of the most animated I had en
joyed. Immense herds of cattle which had been
driven in to be milked, were returning to their pas
turage on the plains. A considerable number of

124 FROM TAMPICO
these were very large animals, and of a light dun
colour, evidently of a peculiar breed, as I never
saw any others like, them in the country. Many
hundred mules came in from their night's graze,
to receive their cargoes, which lay dispersed in
groups upon the plain, attended by crowds of Ar-
rieros, who were carrying a large convoy to the in
terior ; and a herd of half-wild mares and foals
swept past us at a gallop on their way from being
driven to water at the river. Flocks of sheep,
goats, and asses formed the more quiet part of the
picture; while several Vaqueros, or herdsmen,
were careering about and lasoing such animals as
had strayed.
The country since leaving Tampico had been
uniformly level, and the roads, with the exception
of that to Altamira, excellent. There were some
few plains quite destitute of trees, and thickly co
vered with the rank coarse grass, which at this
season was quite parched and as dry as straw;
but generally the country was clothed with a close
thicket of low stunted shrubs and mimosas, and no

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 125
trees of any girth of timber were to be seen. This
may be accounted for by the excessive heat and
drought of the Tierra Caliente during more than
half the year. I remarked, however, that an inferior
kind of the Tuna (a Cactus), which is a very juicy
plant, flourished more abundantly than any other;
and the dry tracts of the low lands of Mexico, as
well as the arid plains of the great African desert,
are remarkable for bearing a few species of the
more succulent vegetables. Some few varieties of
Palms, Yuccas, and dwarf Aloes, were also to be
seen scattered in the dells : and the Arrieros point
ed out to me a small plant somewhat resembling a
young birch, and named " Palo de Leche" (milk-
wood, or stick), from its property of yielding rea
dily, if slightly struck by a whip, a very opake
white juice ; believed, I know not how truly, to
possess a poisonous quality. At all events, it forms
an interesting subject to the muleteers, who whiled
away the fatigues of our sunny ride by recounting
to me a variety of horrid stories of the uses to
which this milk had been applied, either to satisfy

126 FROM TAMPICO
jealousy or revenge, although all my informants
confessed their inability to vouch for the truth of
these recitals. After a ride of about seven leagues,
we reached a small stream named San Juan,
which was at this time very low, and had formed
itself into many shady little pools, at which the
mules drank ; and I remained behind to enjoy the
luxury of bathing. I would advise any traveller
who might follow me over this road, on coming to
San Juan, to look out for a round pool of water
at about one hundred yards to the left of the cross
ing place, shaded by fine evergreens which dip
their branches in the stream. There is a large flat
stone on which he may place his clothes ; and if he
has the good fortune to possess a cake of soap, he
may make quite another man of himself, after all
his dusty scorching journeyings from Tamaulipas.
Let him however remember, on being left be
hind, that two roads lead from the water, and that
he must take that to the left; by going to the
right I lost my way, and gave a great deal of trou
ble before I was found again. In two leagues from

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 127
hence we reached the Villa* of Horcasistas, con
sisting of about one hundred mud huts and houses,
and having a large barn-shaped church, in front of
which two bells were suspended on a scaffold.
Here we obtained some dinner, and purchased also
provisions for supper, as we were not to see an
other house until the following day. Riding six
miles, we came to a small pool of water called
" Arroyo de la Laja," and in four miles further,
through some delightfully shaded paths, like our
little English lanes, reached a small bare space
amongst the thickets f, where we pitched for the
night. Close on our right was a deep gully, half
choked by luxuriant plants and abounding with
very good water.
Our road since leaving Horcasistas had become
rather uneven, over hills and dales, for the greater
part covered with trees ; and our general course
from Altamira had hitherto been about W.N.W.
Making our beds under a clear blue sky, we all
* Here implying a town, in contradistinction to a village.
f Called from a neighbouring brook, Arroyo del Sargento.

128 FROM TAMPICO
turned in very comfortably ; but soon after mid
night a rain-cloud burst over us, and a thorough
soaking was but the operation of a minute. With
all the misery of a forced ablution of this kind, the
sufferer can scarcely refrain from laughing at him
self and companions, as he stands dripping in his
shirt, and watching the fruitless searches made for
sheltered nooks amongst the baggage, which per
haps can only be reached by paddling through
the thin mud, while it is splashed in all directions
by the tropical torrents.
May 19. — Two mules were lost for some time
in the woods, which enabled us to dry our clothes
before they were found ; and in the mean time I
enjoyed a bathe in the Arroyo (or brook), which
gives the name to the place.
After riding about five miles,. I remembered
having left my thermometer by the water side,
where it stood at 92° ; and riding back to seek for
it, met two strange Arrieros, who having found a
valuable sword which had dropped from beneath
my housings at our outset, were endeavouring to

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 129
come up with our party to deliver it to the pro
per owner. I gave them all the money I had about
me, lamenting that I was so far removed from my
baggage as to be unable to reward so much ho
nesty as it deserved.
In eight leagues from the Arroyo we arrived on
the steep picturesque bank of the Rio Limon, a
clear beautiful stream about two hundred yards
wide, at this turn running to the eastward over
several small falls which forbade its navigation even
by canoes. Riding two miles further through the
woods we again came to the river, and crossed it
at a ford about three feet deep, between two small
rapids, above and below which alligators some
times resort. This river joins the Tamoin, and
in the rainy seasons is said to be very impetuous,
and dangerous to cross, scarcely a year passing
without some people being drowned at the fording-
place. We ascended the bank to a cluster of Ran
cho huts, amongst which we piled our baggage for
the night, bought a kid, and cooked our supper.
We had travelled about thirty-six miles over a
good but uninteresting road, through a close wil-
VOL. I. K

130 FROM TAMPICO
derness, chiefly of mimosas, yielding abundance
of gum, which would well repay any persons who
would be at the trouble of collecting it. The Mes-
quiti (an acacia) is the tree that yields most of
this substance, which I believe to be the gum Ara
bic. The long narrow pods of the mesquiti have
when ripe a most agreeable saccharine flavour,
somewhat resembling that of the Locust-bean, so
common in the Mediterranean. The wood of the
tree is very close and hard, and the charcoal made
from it is considered superior to any other. The
temperature in the shade was 98°, in the sun 114°;
and it continued throughout the night at 80°.
May 20. — Setting out at 8 o'clock, and riding
through a forest of fan palms, tall bamboos, and
fine timber-trees, we came to a transparent little
stream, near which three deer of reddish colour
and the size of our fallow-deer were feeding ; and
in five miles more stopped to water our cattle in
another rivulet, gurgling over flat ledges of clay
slate, on which there was not the slightest deposit
of mud or weeds, and closely overshadowed by
fine evergreens. I lay down on one of these ledges

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 131
under a shady tree, and let the waters of " La Ri-
chuela" flow over me for half an hour. Riding
six miles, we ascended the steep rocky " Cerro de
las Cucharas" by a bad and difficult path, under
a heat of 94° in the shade ; and again descending
to a plain covered with fan palms and acacias, in
about twelve miles reached a few huts called " Cha-
mal," on the beginning of the first ascent to the
Table-land*. We had the precaution to put up
our tent here, and at midnight heard the waters
from a thunder-cloud rush like a river past us.
May 21. — We set out very early in the morn
ing to ascend the " Cuesta de Chamal" by a rocky
and fatiguing path, rising, I should imagine, about
a thousand feet above the village. In four weary
miles we passed this " mule-fatiguing" place and
crossed a smaller Cerro, whence we descended to
a flat verdant valley, in the centre of which, some
time before noon, we reached the pretty " villa"
or town of Santa Barbara. In this vale I saw for
* The Barometer at this place stood at 29-652. Ther
mometer 86°.
K 2

132 SANTA BARBARA.
the first time, in Mexico, bright green fresh-look
ing herbage, as verdant as that of our English fields.
Nothing could be more striking than the change
perceptible in one morning's ride over the moun
tains, — on the other side of which, the whole way
from the sea coast, the grasses were of the colour of
blighted corn.
We stopped here for a time, at two small huts
within an inclosure, and I stretched myself under
the shade of the two first orange-trees I had met
with, from which in a few minutes a kind woman
brewed me a glass of cool orangeade. This she ac
companied with such good stewed meat and white
thin Tortillas, that I began to imagine myself once
more in a civilized country. I went out afterwards
to procure shoes for my mule, and passed through
the town, in which there are few buildings with any
pretensions to be called houses ; but the huts are
many of them situated within slight inclosures,
where small fresh-looking trees were growing. In
the Plaza are two of a magnificent size, with im
mense heads and thick bright leaves, and beneath

SANTA BARBARA. 133
their shade a number of country-people were hold
ing a kind of Sunday's market.
The church, which externally was but half com
pleted and looked like a ruin, had three bells on
its tower: and I may here remark, that subsequently
I observed many other village churches of Spanish
architecture, of which the exterior had never been
completed, although within was to be seen all the
glare of Catholic finery.
At five I started again to join the cargo mules,
and rode fcmr or five miles over a grassy plain,
which near the mountains bore marks of the
plough, and the recent gathering in of the maize
harvest. In order to cut off three leagues of the
Camino Real, by which the loaded mules were to
travel, we crossed a small mountain named "Sier-
rita de los Muertos; " and how we reached the other
side without having killed ourselves and animals,
or broken any limbs, is to me quite marvellous : I
never saw so bad a path, — amongst immense frag
ments of rocks, and deep holes worn by the rains
between them. I would strongly advise all tra-

134 TORTILLAS.
vellers who have any regard for their own necks,
or compassion for their poor mules, to take the
longer route, rather than attempt this place by the
light only of a rising moon, as we foolishly did.
This was once, if report may be credited, the re
gular Indian road of communication ; and might
have done very well for such active people as the
ancient inhabitants, or the goats, but is not fit to
be traversed by horsemen or laden mules. Stum
bling our way over a stony descent, we crossed a
cultivated plain for about three or four miles, and
reached a few huts named " La Laja," inhabited
by the labradores of the maize-grounds.
We here slept in a little shed, without knowing
where the cargoes had stopped in the mountains.
I heard of them however, on the following morn
ing (the 22nd), as I sat on a stone eating my
breakfast of hot Tortillas, — a general article of sus
tenance in this country *, which I may endeavour
to describe before the mules come up.
* The maize was prepared in precisely the same manner
before the Conquest. See Bernal Diaz, and others.

TORTILLAS. 135
The maize of which the Tortillas are composed
is first parboiled, to cleanse and soften the grain,
and then, in a quantity sufficient for the day's con
sumption, is left to cool.
For the purpose of crushing or mashing the
maize, the women have a large square block of
black lava or basalt, about two feet in length and
sixteen inches broad, which stands on two, three, or
four legs, so arranged as to give it a gentle slope.
There is a very slightly elevated rim on either
side, and the great solidity and weight keep the
stone steady, while the operator bruises the maize
with a long stone, not unlike a rolling-pin, which
is held at each end, and so moved that it crushes
the grain to paste, and at the same time pushes it
down to a bowl placed ready to receive it.
This process is gone through once, twice, or
more, according to the fineness required ; and
where great care is taken, it is passed through a
fine sieve. A lump of this paste is then taken and
patted skilfully between the hands until it becomes
as thin as a light pancake ; and the great art con-

136 TORTILLAS.
sists in thus flattening it out without breaking the
edges. The cake is then laid on a smooth plate
of iron or flat earthenware, which is placed over
some charcoal or wood embers, and kept at a cer
tain heat : here, first one and then the other side
of the Tortilla receives a toasting, and great care
is taken that it should not be at all browned. The
grand object in the latter part of the process is to
serve up the Tortillas hot and hot, as fast as possi
ble, in a clean napkin ; and a slow eater who begins
his first Tortilla, will find twenty or thirty piled in
a smoking heap at his elbow long before he has
made any progress with his dinner.
The making of Tortillas is so important an art,
that in the houses of respectable people a woman,
called from her office " Tortillera," is kept for this
express purpose ; and it sounds very oddly to the
ear of a stranger during meal times, to hear the
rapid patting and slapping which goes forward in
the cooking-place until all demands are satisfied.
From the Rancho of La Laja we began the as
cent of the Cuesta del Contactero, an immensely

HOLY PICTURE OF THE VIRGIN. 137
precipitous mountain thickly covered with wood ;
and having ridden two hours over a terrible road,
we reached the summit, on which is a cave contain
ing a most miraculous picture of the Blessed Vir
gin, in the side of a steep rock. The cave is about
the size of a sentry-box, although somewhat higher,
and is shaded by magnificent oaks : it is composed
of a light- coloured stalactite, with which all the
surrounding limestone rocks are thickly coated;
and the projections or irregularities have formed
small niches and crevices, which a lively faith has
metamorphosed into a representation of Holy sub
jects. A large shapeless hollow in the top of the
cave is considered as the Glory over a figure of
Maria Santissima, which good Catholics see most
clearly delineated on the smooth back of the cave.
I confess that my heretical eyes saw nothing but
several of those irregularly waving lines which are
perceptible in most rocks of this kind ; but being
directed by a border of tawdry paper and tinsel
roses, I was enabled to discover something like
the outline of a large sack. To this my Arrieros

138 HOLY PICTURE OF THE VIRGIN.
climbed up and paid most profound adoration ;
pointing out to me afterwards, the face, eyes,
mouth, and beauties of the Blessed figure, in whose
arms they also discerned the Holy Child as clearly
aspossible ! — The cave stands at an elevation above
the road of about twenty-five feet, and is ascended
by climbing up the rocks, now worn in many
places as smooth as glass by the devout persons
who have ascended to pay their adoration.
" The Holy picture of Maria Santissima de
Santa Barbara was discovered many hundred
years ago by a priest, who when travelling found
a number of Indians performing their idolatrous
ceremonies on the summit of this mountain ; — a
circumstance which so fired his holy zeal, that he
determined on the reformation of these Pagans by
a miracle. Seeing a quantity of bushes growing
out of this cave, (in which it is certain no bushes
could ever have grown,) he ordered his Christian
attendants to fire them ; and when their flame was
extinguished, the figure of the Mother of God was
seen stamped, as it is to this day, on the solid rock."

HOLY PICTURE OF THE VIRGIN. 139
— A general baptism was the natural result of such
a manifestation ; and the good Padres of Santa
Barbara have ever since derived a comfortable
revenue from the miracle.
From this sanctified spot, in about three miles
we gradually descended to the delightful valley of
Los Gallitos, embosomed in the Cordilleras, and
clothed with a bright short sward, on which a
quantity of fine cattle were feeding. It is a little
space, three or four miles in length and about half
as broad; and through its centre, amongst pic
turesque irregularities of ground, flow two small
clear streams as they descend from the surrounding
mountains which are thickly clothed to their sum
mits with magnificent oaks. Several spaces in the
valley are fenced off and ploughed ; and the snug
cottages, with domestic animals wandering near
them, reminded me forcibly of the scenery in some
of the small Swiss vales.
Pitching the tent, we lay down in a temperature
of 82°, to sleep on the fresh soft grass. A little
rain fell during the night, and the Rancheros in-

140 CERRO DE LOS GALLOS.
formed me that showers towards midnight oc
curred almost constantly ; so that a perpetual ver
dure reigns in this charming place. This valley,
with another equal to it in richness and beauty
and a short space to the left, belongs to the Car
melite Friars of San Luis, who are also the pos
sessors of a variety of others of the most fruitful
spots in this part of the country.
May 23. — We began the ascent of the Cerro de
los Gallos very early in the morning, that our
animals in this laborious journey might not be
exposed to the full heat of the day. In an hour
and a half the saddle-mules reached the summit,
and in another hour the cargoes joined us *.
On the mountain top we found blackberries in
ripe fruit and flower, and the wild geranium of our
English hedges abounded ; oaks, which were the
only frees, formed a noble forest. Hence we de
scended two miles to a little green plain, and break
fasted at a solitary hut, after which the road again
* The Barometer here stood at 25750. Temperature 65° ;
while in the valley it was 27-156. Temperature 79°-

ANCIENT BUILDING. 141
became exceedingly bad and stony, amongst rug
ged hills for about nine miles, when by a long
rocky descent we at last reached the lower coun
try, arid and dustyj cut up by the deep irregular
channels of mountain torrents, and nearly bare of
trees*. In many places it had been extensively
ploughed, and was lying fallow. On our right, at
a mile distance from the road, was a lake of two
miles in circumference, which is said to be quite
salt, and no living creatures are found in its waters.
At about half a mile to the left is the ruin of an
Aztec building, which I sketched, and then ascend
ed. The base, stretching in diameter about thirty
paces, rises in the form of a portion of a cone ; it is
very neatly built, and has been entirely faced with
* On the burning gravelly soil I caught an animal of the
Lizard tribe, which is called " Cameleon" by the natives. It
was about the size of the palm of the hand, and nearly of the
form of a turtle's shell. Its skin was coarse, of a dingy yel
low barred with dusky brown, and a number of rows of
fleshy prickles or points ran longitudinally over its back and
sides. The tail was very short ; the whole creature flat, and
so lethargic as not to attempt its escape. This animal is fi
gured by Clavigero under the name of " Tepajaxin."

142 TULA.
flat unhewn stones, and has others projecting at
intervals, as if for steps. This part has been much
defaced by the Indians, who live in a hut near it,
having carried away the stones to build a wall for
a cattle yard; enough however remain to show
what it has been. The base rises about twenty
feet, and on its summit is a kind of walk or pa
rapet round a small tower, which is now only
about ten feet higher; and the whole edifice is filled
with hard earth or clay, in which the Indians have
found several stone and earthenware figures : some
of the latter of these, although much mutilated, I
purchased of their children. I should conceive,
from the shape of this building, that it must either
have been a Teocalle (or temple) or some very
large altar of sacrifice, since several smaller ones,
which resemble it in form but are only three or
four feet in height, are still said to exist in the
neighbourhood. Hence we rode over the dull, dusty, and most un
interesting country, bearing here and there a stunted
bush or a Yucca-tree, and in eight miles reached

FUNERAL OF A CHILD. 143
Tula, (I believe a city,) which with the exception of
the Plaza, where are a few ruinous houses, is com
posed of huts built of large bricks of unburnt clay,
called Adobes. This, with the dust, the palm-
trees and the pulque* (which in its sweet and fer
mented state also has precisely the same smell and
flavour as the Lackbif of Africa), reminded me
most forcibly of Morzouk, the capital of Fezzan, as
I rode up the broad dusty street of huts, under the
glare of a scorching sun, to a Meson in the Plaza,
where we procured a bare room. Our lodging
was opposite the church, at which, hearing music
in the evening, I found a crowd of people with a
young woman who was bearing on her head a little
dead child, dressed in coloured papers so arranged
as to represent a robe, and tied to a board by a
white handkerchief. Round the body were stuck
a profusion of artificial flowers ; the face was un-
* * This is the first place at which I found the Agave Ame
ricana or Maguey cultivated for the purpose of extracting
Pulque ; of which as there is a great consumption, I soon
found there was also a great deal of drunkenness.
+ Inspissated juice of the Date-palm.

144 FUNERAL OF A CHILD.
covered, and the little hands tied together as if in
prayer. A fiddler and a man playing on a guitar
accompanied the crowd to the church-door ; and
the mother having entered for a few minutes again
appeared with her child, and walked off, accom
panied by her friends, to the burying-place.
The father followed with another man, who as
sisted him with a lighted piece of wood in throw
ing up hand-rockets, of which he bore a large
bundle under his arm. The whole ceremony was
one of cheerfulness and gaiety, since all children
who die young are supposed to escape purgatory
and to become " Angelitos * " at once. I was in
formed that the burial would be followed by a
fandango, in token of rejoicing that the babe had
been taken from this world. — It is doubtless the
duty of Christians to be resigned to their afflic
tions; but I am sure that few English women
could carry their first and only infant to its grave,
with smiling countenances ; and I equally can
* Little angels.

FUNERAL OF A CHILD. 145
answer for the inability of the men to throw up
rejoicing rockets when their first-born is taken
from them. I entered the church, which was
neat, and, according to custom, crowded with
images : before one of these a sallow wretched
man was kneeling, with his arms extended for so
long a time that it became painful to look upon
him, and I left him to perform his agonizing pe
nance ungazed upon by the eye of curiosity ; since
whatever may be the errors of the creed which
imposes bodily suffering as an atonement for sin,
his was an act of fervent piety, and, as such, was
sacred. Hence I visited a school, attracted by the
noise of seventeen little boys repeating at the full
stretch of their variously toned throats the " Or-
dinanzas" of the Church, each one bawling with
all his zeal and with all his strength. Their
master, a fat, lazy, good-tempered -looking man,
fairly lost his patience in endeavouring to make
me hear, through the din, his questions as to
"whether the Spaniards would come again and
hano- all the revolutionists ;" and soon gave them
O
VOL. I. L

146 TULA.

their dismissal, after they had knelt down and
rapidly screamed out two prayers which he named
to them : each child then came and inclined his
shoulder to receive the blessings of the master and
the stranger, and after this very pretty little cere
mony they all ran off whooping and hallooing
down the street. I saw but one book in this ex
traordinary seat of learning ; but the master very
seriously assured me, that several of the boys
could nevertheless read.
On my return I found a white well-dressed lady
of Tula, with three very pretty children, in a sad
passion with my servant, who had turned a deaf
ear to her offers of purchasing one of my three
English fowls, of which I wished to carry the
breed to the interior. No excuses would satisfy
her; and on my appearance to confirm the refusal
of two Tula chickens for one English, she indig
nantly brushed out of the room, declaring that she
had been rightly informed that " the English were
ill-natured animals." This well-bred woman was
the most considerable person in the place, and my

TULA. 147
hostess was all astonishment at the man who could
refuse her any thing. I slept in a wretched room,
for which I paid an exorbitant price, and had, be
sides, the misery of being obliged to attend to the
complaints of a long list of ladies, all either preg
nant or hoping to be so. My landlady had spread
a report of my being a " cunning man," from my
having told her some extraordinary truths (of
which her husband had previously informed me),
as to her name, her being thirty-three years of
age, &c. ; and my having satisfied her anxious in
quiries as to the sex of her next child, which I in
formed her " might possibly be a boy." I have
already remarked how much Tula resembled Mor
zouk ; but these circumstances confirmed the com
parison, since I here had to answer precisely the
same questions as I had been asked by the Afri
can women, to females not at all wiser than those
poor despised Negroes. My own country-women
would scarcely credit some of the anecdotes I
could tell of those neglected creatures in the
northern states of this Republic ; and would not
l 2

148 FROM TULA
believe it possible that the females of any country
called civilized, could be so barbarously kept in a
state of the most perfect ignorance.
May 24. — Early on the 24th we set out over
a parched plain, studded with dwarf mimosas,
palms, and tunas. At about twelve miles we pass
ed a few huts, the Rancho de la Borega, on our
right, and on the left of the road saw a venerable-
looking old man sitting beneath the shade of an
acacia, in the branches of which, immediately over
his silvery head, a crucifix was placed. Imagining
that this picturesque personage was a hermit, I
rode up to salute him ; when he lifted a cloth which
hung over a bough, and displayed to me some
bowls of " Atole de leche, " a composition of the
finer and more glutinous parts of maize, boiled
milk, sugar and cinnamon, equal to any of our
custards. We each took a bowl, and discussed
its contents with spoons made of palm leaves,
completing the meal by the purchase of a quantity
of the fruit of the tuna, or prickly pear, with
which several laden asses were proceeding to

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 149
Tula. An Indian from the interior passed us
here, carrying his bow and a handful of light ar
rows headed with small narrow pieces of copper.
Riding forward about ten miles, we passed over
a rising ground entirely covered with a stream of
lava *, which in large irregular masses appeared to
have issued from two slight elevations on the left,
bearing all the aspect of having once formed part
of a volcanic crater. The hills immediately on the
right were of limestone.
Not far off Flores showed me a rock, of which
there runs a tradition that " an old very strong
necromantic Indian, flying with his treasure at
the time of the Conquest, brought it to this
place, and by his strength and art overturning
the stone, buried his riches beneath it. They
still lie there, and can only be obtained by the
stone being again overset by any number of men
under eight, which number destroys the charm
and the gold is lost : seven Arrieros had re-
* The name of "Mai Pays" is applied throughout the
country to places of this nature.

150 FROM TULA
peatedly tried their powers, but without effect."
All the space round the stone had actually been
scraped up by the credulous ; but I observed that
these efforts to overturn it had been made in one
direction, at which a projecting point was the impe
diment. Digging beneath this, we three English
men assisted by Flores, tumbled the magic rock
over with such force that it split in two, but found
no treasure to repay us for our trouble.
Flores told the story triumphantly to all we met,
and who seemed acquainted with the rock, which 1
lamented having broken, since a favourite object of
Arriero tradition had thereby lost its charm.
During the greater part of our ride we had
been accompanied by a patient of mine, — a mule
teer, whom I had cured of fever and ague ; with
his master, a very drunken old Ranchero, who
talked politics and drank Vino Mescal (a liquor ex
tracted from a species of maguey, — and re-extract
ed by him from a bottle which hung at his saddle
bow,) until he became very troublesome and tor
menting. This man, the owner of a large estate,

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 151
was one of many I had recently met who were in
sad alarm that Ferdinand the Vllth was coming
over to cut the throat (and here he drew his hand
across his neck) of every Mexican. He also with
the multitude could not be persuaded that Spain
and Europe were not two names for the same
country; London he believed to be a nation of
itself, England an inferior province, but both oc
cupying remote corners of the king of Spain's do
minions. As for France, he affirmed that it was
but another name for Panama.
At six miles from Mai Pays we arrived at the
Rancho del Coronel, having ridden the whole way
in one unceasing cloud of dust. In a hut here I
found two merry Silenus-looking old fellows on a
large bull's hide, sitting in high glee over an im
mense jar of pulque, very drunk and tormentingly
polite to myself and each other ; lavishing all the
compliments of the country on their own acknow
ledged, and my supposed merits. Happily for me,
the mules were able to pass on to La Viga, two
leagues from " el Coronel."

152 FROM TULA
From hence I sent forward one of my people
to Mr. Price, my medical friend, who was two
days in advance. The man had long fancied that
each dusty respiration was to be his last; and with
out any serious illness, was determined on killing
himself by the mere force of imagination. We
pitched our tent on a barren plain ; and when the
sun went down found the night so cold, that we
were glad to warm ourselves by drawing water for
our cattle by the rude machinery placed over a
well of bad water ninety feet in depth.
May 25. — At daylight on the 25th the thermo
meter stood at 65°, which after the heat of the low
country appeared almost a freezing temperature.
Our day's ride of thirty miles was over dull un
interesting ground, covered at intervals with mi
mosas, which by natural outlets yield a great
quantity of fine transparent gum. The maguey
was very abundant as far as the eye could reach,
and dust and whirlwinds half-blinded us. At
about twenty-five miles we came to a very stony
hill, on which were standing about three dozen

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 153
huts named " Buena Vista;" and in five miles more
we reached the Hacienda del Quelintal, at the foot
of a similar hill, where I joined Mr. Price. Here
the water, which can be procured only from wells
thirty-five feet in depth, is harsh and unpleasant.
We took up our abode in the hut of a very poor
man, and at night lay outside beneath the eaves,
while near us reposed our host, his wife, and eleven
children, forming a line of no small extent; each
little child was rolled in the ragged blanket which
constituted its clothing by day, and the air of con
tentment which reigned throughout this miserably
poor but uncomplaining family, would have taught
a wholesome lesson to a dissatisfied man. This
was not the only time I had occasion to admire the
mild unrepining manners of a class of the Mexi
can population, of whose poverty no idea can be
formed but by eye-witnesses.
Our host paid two dollars per annum as ground-
rent, and three more for a sufficient space in
which to sow half a fanega of maize, on the pro
duce of which the family in great measure de-

154 FROM TULA
pended. I wished that the poor fellow might have
some pulque to cheer his heart ; but his landlord
required five dollars a hundred for the magueys,
although thousands and tens of thousands were
growing wild and decaying all over the plain *.
May 26. — We left Quelintal at seven, and I
had now the satisfaction of having Mr. Price for
my fellow-traveller during the remainder of the
journey. The road lay over several low sierras
and rugged paths for four leagues, until we reached
a snug cluster of huts called Rincon. Here we
found a sick man in a raging fever, to whom his
friends were administering a rich stew of blood
and sweet herbs. He lay moaning in a corner of
our room, across which a rope was stretched, sup
porting four quarters of recently killed beef, with
other morsels hanging dangling and bloody. A
fat woman very drunk sat on the threshold of the
door; while another still fatter, and but little more
sober, took her station on a bed close to our table,
from whence she helped herself to our dinner and
* The Barometer here stood at 26-300. Thermometer 79°.

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 155
whatever else she fancied ; taking possession at
length of our jar of pulque, which she shared li
berally with her friend at the door. We found it
impossible to escape from these two Bacchantes,
our tent being like an oven *, and were therefore
obliged to exercise our patience until the sun went
down. In consequence of Mr. Price having bled the
sick man, we were sadly tormented by patients,
real and imaginary, under the immediate chapero-
nage of the fattest old woman, who finished the
day by coming with some more invalids into our tent
after dark, squatting her spacious person close to
my face as I lay in bed, thereby breaking the sack
ing, and in consequence receiving from my naked
foot an impetus which sent her in an instant
through the tent door.
May 27. — The thermometer at dawn was 68°-
All our patients were better, although some little
discontent was shown at our not having instant
* At two p. m. Thermometer 88° in the shade; in the sun
118°, and in the tent 104°. The heat of the ground was 137°;

156 PEOTILLAS.
remedies for the blind, the fat, and the lean ; palsy,
pregnancy, and its reverse. At seven we travelled
over a series of bad roads amongst the mountains ;
and at ten miles passed the Rancho of San Isidro,
in which was the only cottage I had ever met with
where any attention had been paid to exterior ap
pearance; some climbing plants were clustering
over its front, and from amongst them peeped the
two first roses I had seen in blossom. In
twelve miles more we reached the huts of Puerto
San Jose *, in a dell amidst the mountains, where,
under a fine shady tree, a gay party were assem
bling to set out on horseback to a wedding at
Peotillas. My servant Marriot was here attacked
with strong fever, but was much relieved by co
pious bleeding.
In the evening I bathed in one of the troughs
at which the cattle are watered, and found the
temperature of the well (67°) so cold in compari
son with the air (84°), that on plunging into the
water the circulation left my fingers. While dress-
* Barometer 25-330. Thermometer 83°.

PEOTILLAS. 157
ing I suddenly heard a loud bleating, and in an
instant above four hundred milk-white goats sprang
down the side of the steep little ravine, and rushed
to a well at which young shepherds and girls were
drawing water for their evening's drinking. The
stillness and clearness of the star-light evening,
the picturesque dresses of the shepherds and
young women, each with their favourite kid, re
called to the mind the description of the Patriar
chal Ages, when the maidens attended their fathers'
flocks, and assembled round the wells with the
shepherds as the sun declined. We slept under a
mimosa near the fires of our muleteers, with whom
on the morning of the 28th we had much trouble,
as their mules were tired and exhausted, and none
others could be hired to supply their places.
In three leagues over a stony road we reached
the Rancho del Tejou, and passed on to a plain
on which the number of whirlwinds was quite ex-
traordinary. We had repeatedly seen a few of
them, but on this day they appeared to have as
sumed a new form, raising the dust to a height of

158 PEOTILLAS.
two or three hundred feet in straight columns
which preserved their perpendicularity and moved
but slowly over the plain, while many continued
to turn rapidly on their axes without any percepti
ble progressive motion.
After riding three leagues further we reached the
plain of Peotillas, where the younger Mina, having
but 172 men, including himself and staff, so gallantly
defeated Armiiian with a force of 1 700 disciplined
troops *. The Spaniards were nearly all destroy
ed, and we visited the long grave in which many
of them were buried, beneath a rude cross of wood,
whereon was engraved
Vn Padre Nn y un Abe Maria Gloriado
— y un Sudario Por Yntinsion de las Ani
mas q' estan Sepultadas en este Campo.
The field of battle was covered with low bushes,
* " On the body of a lieutenant-colonel was found the
order of the day, which showed that the force actually en
gaged, was six hundred and eighty infantry of the European
regiments of Estremadura and America, and eleven hundred
of the Rio Verde and Sierra Gorda cavalry, and that the
rear guard consisted of three hundred men."

PEOTILLAS. 159
and of course well calculated to favour a force
such as Mina's, which consisted for the greater
part of raw undisciplined Indians and country-
people, who in this covered ground might be
disposed to better advantage than a more regular
body of men.
I was extremely interested by the narrative of
Mina's campaign, written with great feeling by
Mr. Robinson, and full of the interesting incidents
which occurred to that brave but ill-fated man,
during his short but astonishing career in Mexico.
One league from the field is the Hacienda of
Peotillas, situated at the foot of a low rugged
chain of hills. There are a few good dwellings
here, with a church and store, of stone. In the
portico of the Administrador were hanging two
stuffed wolves, and a neighbouring tree was gar
nished with the bodies of numerous coyotes, the
jackals of the country. I was fortunate in visiting
the Hacienda at the time of watering the horses
and selecting some for sale. Above three hundred
were careering about in a long inclosed space,

160 FROM TULA
with several Vaqueros on horseback and on foot
attending them with their lasos.
Wishing to purchase a horse, I was enabled to
see the laso exercised in its utmost perfection;
and the dexterity with which particular animals
were selected and arrested for my inspection from
the herd at full speed, was far beyond what "I had
expected. The whole scene was of the most anima
ting kind ; the wild galloping horses, the mirth
and activity of the men on foot, who seemed de
lighted in showing their skill, was above all things
pleasing. I purchased here a very good pacing
horse for twelve dollars, equal to 21. 8s., and then
rode on to a small tank at about a mile distance,
where for the first time in my journey I was refused
admittance into a hut until the tent arrived, al
though a gale was blowing and we were half smo
thered with dust and gravel. Our road this day
had been so uninteresting, that I now gave up in
despair all hope of agreeable travelling on this
part of the so much vaunted " Table Land of
Anahuac."

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 161
What with the excessive heat and monotonous
surface of the Tierra Caliente, the difficult and
fatiguing ascents of the mountains, and the clouds
of dust of the " Temperate Regions;" I began to
be rather tired of my journeying on a road so
totally destitute of interest or incident. My chests
and furniture were split by the sun, or by the
laden mules knocking them against the trees ; and
instead of being twelve days, as was expected, we
had now been travelling fifteen. Fifty miles of
our journey yet remained to be performed, withl
jaded mules, and Arrieros sick with ague and fever.l
I do not complain either of my food or lodging,
being always grateful for them whether good or
bad ; but fastidious persons would do well never
to enter the Mexican territories via Tampico and
San Luis. It should be the constant axiom with
the stranger, that whatever feeds or covers the
people amongst whom he travels, will unquestion
ably nourish and shelter himself; and on this
principle, he will find no difficulties in earthen
floors, in mud huts, tortillas, or ropes of beef. In
VOL. I. M

162 FROM TULA
the afternoon my sick servant was again bled, and
I decided on leaving him to the kind care of Mr.
Price and riding into San Luis to prepare lodgings
for their reception, leaving them to divide the
journey into two days.
May 29. — At daylight therefore on the 29th I set
forward with Flores, in a temperature of 50°, which
by noon rose to 84°. In seven miles we passed
a few huts called La Colorada, and in ten more
reached a solitary hovel near the road, where
Flores was taken very ill, and I bled him copious
ly, after which and a few hours sleep he was suf
ficiently relieved to go on again. A day had
scarcely passed since leaving the coast without my
having met with some persons labouring under
sharp fevers and agues, which it appears are not
confined to the low country, but, on the contrary,
become rather more frequent on the Table Land,
notwithstanding its reputed salubrity. In twenty-
six miles more we entered the town of San Luis
at sunset, soon finding our kind agent Mr. Dall,
who obligingly invited me to his house. Our road,

TO SAN LUIS POTOSI. 163
as usual, had been desolate and uninteresting, with
few trees, but great abundance of gigantic no
pals, the trunks of which were many feet in dia
meter. Hares and rabbits were very numerous,
and so tame as scarcely to leave the road when we
passed them.
At about seven or eight miles from the town
the irrigated gardens and fields commenced, and
broad straight roads, covered with dust to above a
horse's fetlocks, crossed them in all directions. In
the outskirts, Flores pointed out to me two graves
containing a number of Spaniards who had been
killed in the war, and on which a singular figure
was scratched or scraped every night by the un
earthly hand (as was generally believed) of a soul
in purgatory. The priests, with their usual anxiety
to prevent imposition, are said to have set a watch
to detect the nocturnal limner, but without effect ;
for as we passed, the mysterious mark was still vi
sible. Not far from the place is a small building
with holes like those in a post-office window, into
which a number of inscriptions invite all good
m 2

164 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
Christians to put their money to purchase masses
for the Almas de Purgatorio (souls in purgatory),
which to heretical eyes soon discovers the myste
rious nocturnal artist.
May 30th. — I rambled out early in the morn
ing to see the market of which I had heard so
much; and was not disappointed as to its neat
ness and novelty, although I did not find such
abundance or variety of fruits and vegetables as
I had been led to expect. It is held in a large
square, and presents to a European an appear
ance so unlike anything to be met with in the Old
World, as to be very interesting. On entering,
I passed a long line of Indian and other women
squatted on the ground and selling roses and
nosegays. Some dealt in fruits, others had co
loured pulques in glasses ; and there were not a few
occupying themselves over little charcoal fires,
preparing cakes or frying meat for the consump
tion of the country-people, Arrieros and Leperos,
who swarm in the street and market. Further on,
the square was filled by little spaces ranged in

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 165
lines and shaded by a mat or two, erected on a
pole in the form of an umbrella, or by some rude
kind of awning on four sticks. Here peppers,
legumes and fruits, are spread upon mats on the
ground for sale, while the venders sit cross-legged
or squatted by their goods, — some indolently loun
ging and smoking their cigars ; others dozing half
asleep, and wrapped in their variously coloured
Serapes. In most instances each stall merely ap
peared to contain the produce of the gardens of
those who attended it, for many did not at first
contain a dollar's worth of goods or fruits ; and
when these were sold, a new comer was at liberty
to occupy the stall. On the opposite side however
to that for the fruits and vegetables are many
larger standings, in which glass, crockery, cutlery,
articles of leather, bitts, &c. are exposed for sale,
always at double, sometimes at treble the prices
for which they are ultimately sold. On one side
of the square is a long colonnade or piazza .in
front of a large public building called " Alhondi-
ga," which consists of a quantity of spacious stores

166 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
for corn and merchandize, and is of great extent.
In the colonnade are a number of little temporary
stalls, at which very inferior European hardware,
trinkets, looking-glasses, and other articles, are
sold at an exorbitant price. The meat market is
not in the same square as that for other goods,
but in a short broad street running out from one
corner of it. The flesh is in large coarse dirty-
looking lumps, either baking in the sun or co
vered with flies ; and the shambles suffer much by
comparison with the other market. In addition
to the fixed traders in these places, a number of
hawkers are constantly to be seen mingled with the
crowd, and offering to the by-standers boots, blan
kets, skins, whips ; in short, every variety of pro
duce, and all selling on commission for the ma
nufacturers, to whom a certain sum is returned, —
the broker appropriating as much as he can, to
cover his own expenses of time and lungs. In
passing through the streets many cages of birds
are seen suspended within the wooden barred
windows, of which the sinsontli, or mocking-bird,

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 167
seems to be the favourite. These are very abun
dant in the surrounding country, yet fifty dollars
are considered as by no means a high price for a
good singer. In the afternoon I waited on the
governor with my passport, and found him to be
a plain well-bred old man, apparently much re
spected *. Notwithstanding his situation, he is a
shop-keeper, and sells, or causes to be sold for
him, all that variety of goods which may be found
jumbled together in a Mexican store. This occu
pation is by no means considered a degradation,
since there are few persons of consequence in the
place who are not in the same circumstances ; and
many of the great men of the land actually keep
drinking-houses. In returning home, the tinkling
of a bell attracted my attention, and every one
around me instantly fell on their knees : a carriage
with two piebald mules had just drawn up before
the cathedral door, and a priest in his robes enter-

* On the top of the Government-house, I saw for the first
time the cap of liberty carved in wood and painted red, sur
mounting a large flag-staff.

168 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
ed it, followed by two choristers bearing censers
after the Host, which he was conveying to some
dying person. The guard turned out under arms,
knelt and grounded their pieces and pulled off
their caps, while the priest who carried the Host
leant back comfortably in the coach and treated
himself to a pinch of snuff. There are more
kneelings and pulling off of hats at San Luis than
at other places. No one passes the door of the Par-
roquia, or cathedral, without making a reverence
bare-headed; and many good Christians perform
the same marks of respect to the other churches.
This obeisance is exacted from no one ; but were a
stranger to omit it, he would stand a very good
chance of being insulted by the very bigoted po
pulace, who still view with a jealous eye the here
tical foreigners who have lately appeared amongst
them. At certain hours the bells of the Parroquia an
nounce that all should be uncovered, and that a
prayer should be recited, a rapid tinkling giving
notice when the hats may be put on again. I la-

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 169
ment much that I was not in San Luis at the
time of the ceremonies on the day of Corpus
Christi, having heard that they were the most
splendid exhibitions during the year. One of the
images in this procession represented the Supreme
Being bearing the Saviour in his lap.
In the evening I went to Flores' house to give
him some medicines, as he was still very ill ; he lived
immediately opposite the Cock-pit, which I visited
and found crowded to excess by all conditions of
men, from the best-dressed per sons to those who had
but a portion of ragged blanket to cover them, but
each carrying his own bird. The pit is a circular
space, surrounded by seats of masonry and shaded
by canvass ; no money was paid for admittance. I
saw much betting, and several stakes delivered into
the hands of a kind of master of the ceremonies ;
but I did not remain to witness a fight which pre
sently took place, and from which in less than five
minutes three dead cocks were brought out. Bull
fights had recently been prohibited, but I believe
much to the regret of the people. I visited the

170 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
Plaza de Toros, in which it has been the custom
to hold a kind of wandering evening market,
.where all sorts of wearing apparel and other arti
cles are hawked about. There are but few shops
in San Luis at which any of these conveniences
can be purchased, and it is therefore the usual
custom to send them out to look for customers.
Here also stolen goods are not unfrequently sold ;
but from the general use of the knife amongst the
" valiant sons of Anahuac," I should be very un
willing to arrest a thief in the crowd of wild ill-
looking fellows who frequent the evening mart.
While each vender was auctioneering for himself,
and a second Babel seemed to reign, the vesper
bell tolled. A universal silence prevailed, — every
head was bared, and all business was at a stand.
At the next tinkle, bidding, cheating and quarrel
ling, were as instantly resumed. At dusk I again
met the Host, preceded by men bearing lanthorns,
on its return from a dying person.
The following story, which was related to me by
several gentlemen of strict probity, serves to show

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 171
the present state of ignorance in medical science
in San Luis Potosi. A physician, who was pointed
out to me, was called to the assistance of a poor
labourer with a ruptured blood-vessel. Ice was
the only remedy known to stop the flow of blood,
and none could be obtained until a priest should
be sent for to confess the sufferer before he died.
What then was to be done ? — it was but too certain
that the man would soon expire, unless means
were found to arrest the effusion. The physician
therefore had no resource but to sew up the poor
wretch's mouth and nostrils ; but even before the
Host could be sent for, the miserable creature was,
very naturally, suffocated.
May 31. — I visited the church of San Francisco,
with the monastery attached to it, both handsome
buildings, and according to report richly endowed.
We were first ushered into a large court having
a grass-plat in the centre, round which ran a cor
ridor; and on the walls were hung a series of pic
tures descriptive of the life and actions of San
Francisco. The saint is hungry, and our Saviour

172 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
is seen sitting at table with and helping him to the
viands, while an angel brings him water to quench
his thirst. He is represented, after his death, as
sitting on the left hand of the Almighty, who is
pictured as an aged man having on his right the
Redeemer and the Virgin Mary. Some of the sup
posed miracles and conferences with the Divinity
are beyond all description blasphemous ; and the
Friars informed me, — at the same time triumphant
ly pointing to a painting of the event, — that the
saint had procured from God's own mouth the
entire pardon of the sins of the world, as fully
as was granted to Christ himself; but that the
Pope of the age in which San Francisco lived,
would not confirm the grant, and that mankind
in consequence had been left in their blindness
and sin !
I saw also a gorgeous painting of Christ trans
ferring the marks of the cross from his own per
son to that of the saint, before the holy man was
carried by angels to heaven. In an upper gallery
the life of San Antonio is portrayed in a series of

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 173
miracles as profane as those of his brother saint
below. I should tire and shock my readers were I to
tell them all ; but one subject is so novel that I
may be forgiven for describing it. This is the
figure of an ass kneeling, with its mouth open, be
fore the saint who holds the sacred wafer, and who
has just had recourse to this miracle to convince a
number of heretics who had doubted the actual
presence. The interior of the church is handsome
and airy, and in some places tastefully ornamented
by good carved fretwork in stone. The greater part
of the statues were of monkish saints in the cloth
robes of their various orders, which had a far bet
ter appearance than the gaudy dresses and tinsel
of the usual figures. On the whole, there was good
taste in the decorations of the church, and in one
aisle is a chapel "most particularly blest (de un
modo muy singular) by the Divine Presence," in
which is a temple- shaped altar, very prettily ex
ecuted in white and gold, and containing the only
rational-looking statue of the Virgin I ever saw.

174 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
There were no spangled hoop petticoats, crowns,
wigs, or artificial jewels ; but a handsome woman
of the natural size, dressed in a robe of unglazed
black silk, the folds of which hang gracefully over
one arm. The bust is well proportioned, and co
vered to the throat, and the waist is encircled by
a plain gold band. The contrast between this
figure and the simple white temple is very strik
ing, on account of the extreme plainness of the
whole. There is but one good painting in the
church, and this is a copy of the Divino Rostro
(Divine Countenance) by a self-taught artist and
architect, Sefior Tresguerra. It is merely a re
presentation of the head of our Saviour on a
sheet, but beautifully executed ; and presented by
the artist to the church, on condition of its sup
plying the place of a very ugly statue.
I had waited with anxiety Mr. Price's arrival
with my sick servant, but received a letter from a
place called " the Adobes," seven leagues distant,
saying that he was unable to proceed further on
that day ; which was greatly to be lamented, as not

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 175
a single comfort could be procured for the invalid :
even the water, which was obtained from a tank,
being thick and undrinkable.
June 1. — With much difficulty I hired a car
riage to proceed on the following morning for my
poor man. In the forenoon, being the eighth from
the celebration of Corpus Christi, a temporary
altar was erected in a small lower room at the
corner of the House of Congress, or Palacio, which
faces the Parroquia. From thence at ten o'clock
a procession sallied forth and performed the cir
cuit of the Square, which was crowded with peo
ple. Mass was read to the kneeling multitude; and
the procession then returned in due form to the
church, preceded by a number of ragged Indians
and half-casts, playing on rude fiddles, guitars, and
flutes, each according to his own particular fancy
or ability. Then followed a confused mass of wo
men, some carrying candles, others flowers, and
four of them bearing a statue of San Cristoforo,
who appeared to be some Catholic Hercules, he
being dressed very like the ogre in Tom Thumb,

176 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
and wearing an enormous sword buckled round
him with a broad buff belt. The platform on which
he stood was ornamented with ears of ripe Indian
corn, apples, flowers, and tinsel ; and I observed
that there was a great competition among the
women for the honour of bearing this doughty
saint. Next followed the Host, borne by a priest
under a gaudy silk canopy, and attended by others
in their robes of ceremony, each with his hands
uplifted and devoutly pressed together, while
their eyes wandered about the crowd in search of
acquaintance, whom they acknowledged by a nod.
The members of the Provincial Senate in full suits
of black, and bare-headed, closed the procession.
Don Francisco Tresguerra, — the artist whose
"Divino Rostro" I had so much admired, — was so
obliging as to visit me. I was quite charmed with
the good sense and taste of this gentleman, who
has devoted his talents, I believe quite without be
nefit to himself, to the embellishment of San Luis,
where some of his works, both in painting and ar
chitecture, reflect the highest credit on his abili-

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 1 77
ties. He was at this time building a theatre at
one extreme end of the town, an altar-piece at the
other ; and painting besides, on a very large scale,
for" three or four different churches : he has never
left the Republic, and from his age, now about
fifty-five, it is not probable that he will ever gra
tify his prevailing desire to visit Europe. The ex
terior architecture of the churches of San Luis is
generally very heavy, overloaded with carved or
naments and ill-executed statues of saints ; yet at
a short distance they give a magnificent appear
ance to the town, which contains many very large
buildings. The Palacio, now the Provincial House
of Congress, is of this number, and forms one side
of the Plaza de las Armas, which has an excellent
fountain of water in the centre. The Parroquia
occupies a portion of the opposite side, and on its
right are the soldiers' quarters. The two other
sides are filled with shops and dwelling-houses, it
being the custom for the owners of good mansions
to let the lower story as a shop. Mr. Dall's store
was in the lower part of what was once the Cus-
VOL. I. N

178 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
tom-house, but now is the dwelling of a rich wi
dow, one of the most important persons in the city.
She kept her carriage and pair of mules, and was
a great lover of the fine arts, as might be seen by
the very extraordinary collection of little carved
figures and toys nailed round the door of her Sala.
Amongst the large public buildings is a very sa
lutary one for the confinement of refractory wo
men, — jealous fathers or husbands enjoying the pri
vilege of shutting up their daughters or wives !
The church attached to this virtue-guarding edi
fice is very dark and gloomy, and grated off at
one end like a nunnery, so that the poor women
cannot be seen, although they themselves are able
to peep as much as they please. The large house
in which the Inquisition was formerly held is now
a private dwelling, and does not possess that gloomy
aspect which one expects to find in such a place.
The Meson Nuevo (New Inn) is a neat clean
house, the cooking good, and the people civil and
obliging : but in the rooms there is no furniture of
any kind ; and the rent, stabling, and cooking ex-

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 179
penses are all on separate accounts. The shops
of San Luis are good and well stocked, those for
liquors being by far the most numerous. All lea
ther, iron-work, crockery and coarse goods, are
sold, as I have already observed, in the Plaza de
los Toros. The town is plentifully supplied with
water from wells, but there are also regular water-
carriers who bear four large earthen jars in a kind
of wheelbarrow. Pulque is sold at almost every
corner, and its effects on the natives are often very
visible. To the abundance of this and other li
quors may be attributed the frequent and sangui
nary quarrels at this place, and the numerous as
sassinations committed, chiefly among the lower
orders, who all carry knives concealed under their
blanket, although the laws formally prohibit wea
pons. Very slight provocation is sometimes suffi
cient to make one man stab another ; and two mur
ders of this kind took place in open day during
my stay at San Luis. The assassin in such cases
is merely confined for a few days, and then set at
liberty to commit fresh enormities. Sometimes,
n 2

180 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
but rarely, he is sent as a convict for two years to
Vera Cruz. One of the murders before alluded
to took place in consequence of a dispute between
two men of different villages, each of whom claim
ed for his Pueblo the merit of having sent the
largest nosegay as a present to the Virgin at the
feast of Corpus Christi; — to end the matter, one
very deliberately stabbed the other, wiped his
knife, and was taken into custody, well knowing
that in a few days he should regain his liberty. To
instance still further the state of the laws in the
northern parts of the Republic of Mexico at this
period, I may relate that a German gentleman
some time since was attacked on the road to Du-
rango by a robber, who having fired at and missed
him, was instantly shot dead. The gentleman was
afterwards fined five hundred dollars for killing
instead of taking him prisoner and bringing him
to Durango, whence after a few days confinement
he would again have been turned out upon the
world. — The principal streets are lighted by large
lanthorns, yet all who pass take the precaution of

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 181
going armed, although an express permission must
be first obtained to wear a sword. Peaceable men
are thus prohibited from carrying weapons of de
fence, and when killed, their murderers remain
unpunished. Three hundred permits to carry
arms had been transmitted from Mexico, but they
were very insufficient for the principal inhabi
tants. The military at this time consisted of
nearly eight hundred men, of whom about half
were infantry, and the others horse artillery, who
all appeared in tolerable order, when compared
with the wretched rabble I had seen acting as
soldiers at Tampico.
June 2. — The coach arrived in the evening with
Mr. Price and Marriot, and our invalid was some
what better, but exceedingly weak. Afresh accession
of fever however came on (June 3), and continued
unabated until Saturday night, when the poor fel
low breathed his last at midnight. In closing the
eyes of poor Marriot I lost an invaluable servant
and friend, who had followed my good and ill for
tunes for six successive years. He had been with

182 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
me in the brightest as well as the most gloomy
days of my existence; and the services on which we
had been engaged together, equally attached the
master and the servant. In this land of bigotry
the poor fellow would have been denied a grave,
had I not, when he was dead, sent for a priest, who
however on arriving turned unfeelingly to me, ex
claiming " Umph ! he has died without confession
— his soul is lost, and it will be needless for me
to see him." Yet my having called in a priest was
sufficient declaration that the deceased was a Ca
tholic, and by the kind assistance of Mr. Dall I
found no difficulty in having him interred in the
Campo Santo with the ceremonies of the Catholic
Church. On Sunday evening (June 4,) Mr. Dall
and two other American gentlemen joined our
little procession, carrying candles ; and I saw my
poor departed servant buried with proper decency.
June 5. — We visited this morning the public
prison, filled with a half-naked ill-looking set of
people mixed together in one common court, with
out any distinction on account of crime. Some

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 183
were playing at cards, — others spinning thread to
procure means for subsistence ; the guiltless man
and the murderer enjoying the same degree of li
berty, — viz. the range of the large court. The
place was tolerably clean, but possessing to us an
appearance of misery, which would not be felt by its
inmates, accustomed as the lower classes here are to
sleep on the bare ground. There was neither ta
ble nor bench, and the only furniture I saw was a
huge pair of untenanted stocks. We afterwards
went to the Carmelite church under the escort of
a Spanish merchant, who procured us admission
to the gardens also. The building is on an im
mense and magnificent scale, remarkably clean
and airy, and having spacious corridors, with
cells capable of containing a far greater number
of monks than at present occupy them. The
church is crowded with ornaments, which in some
places have a grand effect ; and there is a portion,
over the door of the principal chapel, of most in
tricate and handsome carving in stone, reaching to
the roof of the church. In several other parts the

184 SAN LUIS POTOSI.
fretwork is well executed, but with little regard to
the rules of architecture.
Senor Tresguerra was at this time erecting a
fine altar-piece of stone, which if not ruined by
gilding cannot fail to be admired for its simpli
city and elegance. There are many pictures of
Elijah the patron saint of the Carmelites, who
is accordingly introduced in a variety of fiery cha
riots, some few of which are well painted. In
one picture illustrating that portion of the First
Book of Kings, xviii. 44, where " there ariseth a
little cloud out of the sea, like a man's hand," the
Virgin Mary in a splendid mantle is represented
as sitting on the top of this cloud, with her hands
closed in prayer ; and a long account of the rain
in the days of Ahab having been procured by her
intercession, is subjoined in gold letters at one
corner of the picture. I could not resist remark
ing to our guide, that the Virgin in an Old Testa
ment picture was rather misplaced : but he very
gravely assured me that on this occasion she ac
tually did appear, whatever the Bible might say

SAN LUIS POTOSI. 185
about the matter. In the choir and galleries of
the church are pictures of several well-authenti
cated miracles, particularly one of a poor nun, who
being sick, had dared to provide a boiled fowl for
her supper, contrary to the rules of her order,
which forbade all use of flesh; she had just stuck
her fork into the prohibited morsel, when the Virgin
appeared to her, — like Sancho's physician at Ba-
rataria, — and prevented the unrighteous banquet,
enjoining a long list of penances to the poor sick
sinner for her crime. The Virgin, in fact, is in
troduced in Mexico into every painting, either be
fore or since the flood, to the total exclusion of
that homage which is due to God alone.
The Carmelites are very rich, and possess im
mense estates and Haciendas, which according to
report will ere long be applied to the use of the
Government. Having examined the church, we
rambled through the extensive walled garden at
tached to it, round which were straight walks
shaded almost to darkness by luxuriant vines.
Apple- and pear-trees were very abimdant, but

186 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI
weeds more so. No taste was displayed in the
laying-out the ground, which was irrigated from a
large tank. I here saw the Grana, or Cochineal,
in great abundance on some plants of Tuna, but
it was never collected either for sale or use.
June 6. — We were so late in arranging our car
goes that we could not set out, as I had intend
ed, for Zacatecas ; and in the evening we rode to
the Sanctuario de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe,
which is situated at a short distance from the town.
An old lady, with an enormous goitre, introduced
us to the church, where the Padre, her brother,
sat praying with amazing volubility; and we walked
about as we pleased, admiring the neatest temple
we had seen, ornamented entirely in white -and
gold, and having few other pictures than those im
mediately relating to the Virgin of Guadalupe,
whose legend is painted on the compartments
round the dome. Her story has often been told
by Mexican travellers, but I shall still give my
version of it, after I shall have described my visit
to her church near Mexico.

TO ZACATECAS. 187
We were afterwards treated with cigars, choco
late, and politics, in which, as far as related to the
disturbances in this country, the Padre showed
himself well versed, having during the revolution
headed a party of seventy Rancheros near Leon,
who destroyed 450 regular Spanish infantry. I
afterwards heard that our friend, at that time the
Padre of Saltos de Barra, had been one of the
most active of the many priests who took up
arms against the Spaniards. Before leaving the
Sanctuario he treated us with a view of San Luis
from one of the high turrets, and waited patient
ly while I attempted a sketch of this most beauti
ful prospect I found that Flores was still too ill
to travel, and therefore left him behind, hiring an
other man to attend my horses.
June 7. — We quitted San Luis at 6 a.m. having
sent forward the greater part of our luggage by
Arrieros, and rode four or five miles over a plain
thickly planted with maguey, from which the town
is supplied with pulque. We met several of the
natives with their donkeys laden with jars of this

188 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI
favourite liquor, and drank some sweet and recent
from the plant. At about three miles from San
Luis on the road to Zacatecas, the view on look
ing back upon the town is very beautiful. We
soon exchanged the smooth road for a stony one,
and ascended the Cerros of " San Miguel Mis-
kitiki," over which the travelling was as rough as
it was possible to be. The rocks were of porphy
ry, chiefly of a red colour, and coated abundantly
by beautiful mammellated chalcedony, which with
fragments of jasper lay in great quantities in the
road. In five leagues we descended a gorge in
the mountains, and came suddenly on the retired
romantic little village of San Miguel Miskitiki, si
tuated in a deep rocky glen and half hidden by its
flourishing trees. A mountain stream of very clear
water runs through the ravine, and is crossed by a
small picturesque bridge of two arches. Leaving
San Miguel we came to higher ground with a flat
ter and better road, and at a quarter after one ar
rived at the Hacienda " La Parada," ten leagues
from San Luis. The land is here extensively cul-

TO ZACATECAS. 189
tivated, and in many places requires to be watered
by irrigation from a large tank, in which I found
several wild ducks and a very small species of
diver. There is a kind of village and a church
here, and we obtained lodging in a Meson, which
according to custom in this country afforded no
thing but shelter, water, and one small candle
which is always given to the guests without extra
charge. June 8. — Thermometer 57°. At seven we start
ed over a pretty good road, but a parched-up dusty
country, thinly clothed with mimosa bushes, the
maguey, and tuna. I here first saw a humming
bird, which flew off before I could approach it.
Hares and partridges were very abundant, and I
killed some for our dinner. On the road we met
a coach drawn by eight mules, and having eight
others running before it, guarded by a dozen odd-
looking soldiers. Before noon we passed a small
Rancho crowded with fine cattle, where we stopped
for a time at a hut, and found a most excellent
breakfast of fried pork and onions, milk and tor-

190 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI
tillas, all which had been prepared for a Ranchero.
We left the poor man nothing but the empty
dishes, and the reals we had paid for his breakfast.
At one, after having passed over a plain thickly
covered with maguey, we came to an establish
ment for making Vino Mescal. This is an ardent
spirit distilled from the heart of the maguey, which
being deprived of its leaves to the very bottom of
the root is well bruised and boiled; it is then
placed in immense leather bags suspended from
four large stakes, and allowed to ferment, with the
addition of pulque and the branches of a shrub
called " Yerba Timba" to assist the fermentation.
These leather bags each hold about two tuns. The
liquor when sufficiently prepared is baled from
them to the still, which is inclosed in an immense
staved and hooped vessel, like an overgrown cask,
from whence the distilled spirit flows by a spout
made of a maguey leaf. This stands over a sub
terraneous fire, and the cooling water is contained
in a large copper basin, which fits into the top of the
cask and is removable at pleasure. The " VinoMes-

TO ZACATECAS. 191
cal" is then stored in entire bullock's hides, of which
we saw a room quite full, and their appearance re
sembled a quantity of cattle hung up by the hocks
and deprived of the feet, head, and hair. Each of
these would, I conceive, hold about two pipes, and
they had a spout in the lower end formed from the
skin of the neck. When struck by the open hand
they gave forth a jingling sound as if containing
glasses. The Vino Mescal is sent to the market in
goat-skins, of which we saw some milk-white ones
lying inflated in readiness ; and not far from the
house was aflock of many thousand goats of thepurest
white, with a quantity of brood mares and fine cattle.
The conductor and some of the other people gave
evidence of the strength of the commodity which
they manufactured, for they were half-drunk, very
smoky, and extremely dirty. But we were surprised
in the midst of this scene by the apparition, from a
little mud hut where the men resided, of a young
girl of about thirteen, perfect in beauty and figure,
and as fair as a European. At four we reached the
Hacienda of El Espiritu Santo (The Holy Ghost).

192 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI
These are startling appellations to an English ear,
but in this most Catholic country they are quite com
mon. At Tampico thereis "The shop of the Deity;"
in San Luis, " The Holy Trinity ;" while " The
Divinity," "Jesus Christ," and other sacred titles,
are designations for drinking-houses and the mean
est shops. The fields at the Hacienda were in the
highest state of cultivation, surrounded by good
walls ; and here we saw the first field of wheat,
quite ripe for the sickle. There are large ponds
dammed up in the valley by " Presas," or walls,
of excellent masonry, well plastered and white
washed ; and the village of the Hacienda display
ed a neatness and air of good management rarely
to be seen in Mexico. The Hacienda abounds in
fine cattle, horses, and mules. In the lagoon we
saw numbers of ducks, and a white heron. The
prosperity of this place is attributed to the owner
having armed his people in defence of his property
during the devastating revolutionary war ; and its
contrast with some Ranchos which we had passed
on our day's ride was very striking. There we

TO ZACATECAS. 193
saw the houses roofless and in ruins blackened by
fire, and had ridden over plains still bearing faint
traces of the plough ; but the Rancheros who had
tilled the ground had been murdered with their
whole families during the war. In the space of
forty miles we passed no fewer than fifteen crosses
set up at the road-side, to mark the spot where an
assassination had been committed, and to claim
the traveller's prayers for the soul of the unfortu
nate victim. This part of the road was still con
sidered unsafe; we therefore took the precaution
not to separate from each other, and carried our
arms in readiness. We lodged in a very good
Meson, having its rooms on two sides of a large
court, in which we found a convoy of 130,000 dol
lars on their way to the coast, guarded by half-a-
dozen ill-looking ragged soldiers, with ineffective
muskets, and horses which could scarcely support
themselves *.
June 9. — We set out at seven over a dusty but
excellent road, through the same barren unin-
* Our journey had been fourteen leagues.
VOL. I. O

194 SALT-WORKS.
teresting country, destitute of water, and bound
ed by distant mountains. Here the whirlwinds
were very numerous and troublesome. In the
course of our ride we saw several wild deer and
some very small humming-birds. On this day we
passed the cairns of three murdered persons ; and
having ridden ten leagues, arrived soon after noon
at the Government salt-works and Hacienda of Las
Salinas, where we obtained a room in the Meson
of " Jesus of Nazareth." The Hacienda contains
about five hundred persons, and is situated on an
arid plain, near which are the marshes whence salt
in an impure state is procured. This is consumed
in great quantities at the " Haciendas de Plata *" of
the mining establishments, where it is used in the
process of amalgamation. There is a military es
tablishment and barrack here, inclosed within ex
tensive walls pierced with loop-holes for musketry,
and surrounded by a ditch, of about ten feet in
depth and as many in width, cut in the solid lime-
* The place where the ores are reduced, and the pure
metal extracted.

SALT-MARSHES. 195
stone. A hundred Royalist soldiers garrisoned this
place during the wars ; and it was never once taken
by the insurgents, although there was much fight
ing on the plain. The houses here are built of
sun-dried bricks, of a much whiter and better qua
lity than any I had before seen.
Saturday (June 1 0). — Leaving Las Salinas at se
ven, we rode over the swamp, which was covered by
a brittle crust, and examined some heaps of the salt
collected for sale. They were of the second gather
ing, called " Saltierra," and so blended with earth
that their quality was only perceptible by the taste.
This is sold at four reals the Fanega* (bushel), but
" La Primera Flor" (the first efflorescence, or " Sal
Blanca") is from three to three and a half dollars
the fanega. It is conveyed to the Hacienda at the
Veta Grande in cars drawn by bullocks, generally
at the rate of three reals the fanega. As the Sa-
lina extends three miles in length and one and a
half in width, it is natural to suppose that the
* This is the same measure as is used in Spain, and is
equal to 1-599 English bushels.
o 2

196 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI
Government derive a considerable revenue from
it, — the Hacienda of the Veta Grande of Zacatecas
alone consuming in Saltierra and Sal Blanca to
the amount of 35,000 bushels per annum, even in
the present comparatively unproductive times. Our
whole journey on this day was over an excellent,
though dusty road, through a desert only enliven
ed by the numerous spiral whirlwinds which half-
buried us at times beneath the cloud they created.
At the distance of five miles we came to a cluster
of the most miserable huts I ever met with, called
El Pozo ; few of them had any side walls, and
merely consisted of a low sloping roof just high
enough in the centre to allow of a person's stand
ing upright. It is impossible to conceive how the
inhabitants support themselves for some part of
the year ; all is desert around them, and the Sa
linas only afford a few months employment. At
three leagues from our outset we passed about
twelve miles to the northward of a long Sierra,
where the mining Real de los Angeles is situated,
and on its left, at about thirty miles, is a sugar-

TO ZACATECAS. 197
loaf Sierra de Altamira just discernible, on which
is the Real de los Asientos de Ybarra, from whence
the city of Aguas Calientes is only eight leagues.
Still further on its left again, we saw a rugged
white Sierra, containing the Reales of Chipinqui
and de los Milagros. Riding about two leagues
further, our people pointed out on the right hand
the Real and church of Ramos; and at last on
rising a small hill we saw the Cerro of Zacater
cas, about forty miles to the westward. We now
considered ourselves as having fairly entered on
the mining district of Mexico; and a more de
solate dreary country than this appeared in the
month of June, scarcely exists on the face of the
globe, — after excepting the great Desert in Africa,
and the Polar Regions. We completed our day
by arriving at a wretched mud village named La
Blanca, and put up at a ruined Hacienda de Plata,
having travelled twelve leagues, in which we saw
five cairns and crosses. At about four miles be
fore reaching this wretched place, we passed La
Laguna y Rancho del Moro, lying at a little di-

198 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI
stance to our left. Considerable quantities of salt
covered the ground at this place, which a number
of people were scraping up and putting into a
bullock cart. The flat valley was covered by a
weak kind of parched grass, on which above three
hundred brood mares with their colts and a large
flock of sheep were feeding. Here I saw for the
first time a Coyote, or jackal, at which I had an
ineffectual shot; and we also observed that the
ground squirrels* were very numerous.
June 11. — Leaving La Blanca at eight, we pro
ceeded over a country beyond all description
gloomy and barren. At five leagues we passed a
cluster of hovels called Franosa, a little on our
left; and in five leagues more began a very gradual
descent into a sterile valley of five or six -miles in
width, which brought us to the foot of the Cerro
of Veta Grande. A gentleman from the Veta met
me, and we rode up the rugged ravine amongst the
mountains to the mine and village of La Veta
Grande, which are situated nearly at its head, about
* "Ardilla"-"Tusa."

TO ZACATECAS. 199
five miles from the plain, or rather from the Ha
cienda de la Purissima Concepcion de Sauceda,
where the ores from the mine are amalgamated.
I had prepared myself to be as much disappointed
with this place, after the description given me, as
with almost every thing else I had seen since land
ing in the much vaunted Republic of Mexico ; but
found it ten times worse even than I could have
anticipated. High steep hills covered with stones
and the parched remains of last year's miserable
allowance of grass, surrounded the Veta. Not a
tree, and scarcely any thing which by a stretch of
imagination might be conjured into a bush, was to
be seen ; and often have I travelled over a more
productive and verdant soil, in the Polar Regions,
than is to be found within some miles of the Veta
Grande. The people, who are either employed in
or connected with the mines, live in a little village
along the side of a small Barranca ; and the " Casa
Grande," into which I was ushered, was filled at
this time with a variety of people of every descrip
tion, — all messing at one table, and sleeping two or

200 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI TO ZACATECAS.
three in a room. It was still my fate never to
have a whole apartment to myself, and want of ac
commodations again obliged me to have a fellow-
lodger. I had consolation however for various
discomforts and inconveniences, in finding Dr.
Coulter, who was in charge of the Veta Grande
until my arrival, a most agreeable, scientific, and
gentleman-like man.

VILLAGE OF VETA GRANDE. 201

CHAPTER III.
Village of Veta Grande — Feast-day — Mine of San Bernabe —
Zacatecas — Rains — Dislike of the Natives to the English —
Village of the Sauceda — Colegio of Our Lady of Guada
lupe — Christening — Ruins of a large Indian City now called
Los Edificios — Ancient Causeways connected with it —
Mai Paso — Chase of the Coyote or Jackal.
Our residence at Veta Grande certainly possess
ed one charm — in the magnificence of its view.
From our windows on clear days, and the air was
generally very pure and transparent, we could
look over the vast arid plains in the north to the
remarkable mountains of Catorce, distant about
two hundred miles : yet even this extensive coup-
d'ceil, when the novelty had ceased to charm,
was but increasing the feeling of desolation ; the
eye in all that extent wandering over barren
plains, scarcely enlivened by a single tree, and
wholly destitute of water. To compensate for the
dismal exterior of the Veta Grande, the mines

202 FEAST-DAY.
were promising well, and varying in their produce
from five to ten thousand dollars weekly. Every
process was still carried forward on the Mexican
system, which with a few slight and gradual alte
rations was to be continued, after some abuses
should be corrected, and the useless members
weeded out of the community.
June 18. — On our first feast-day the village of
Veta Grande appeared to have undergone some
magical change, and to be peopled by a different
race from those who had figured during the week.
Fine shawls, brilliant-coloured gowns, silk stock
ings and white satin shoes, were flashing like so
many meteors amongst the mud huts ; and in the
evening I accepted an invitation to go to an exhi
bition of Maromeros, or rope-dancers, in company
with two maiden ladies, sisters of a certain Don
Jesus, who kept a little shop, and was one of the
principal gentlemen in the town. It was a fine
moonlight night, arid we walked to a small mud
amphitheatre usually appropriated to cock-fights,
where we found the tight rope stretched, and

FEAST-DAY. 203
a numerous party-coloured audience assembled.
The theatre was open to the clear starry sky,
and illuminated by four flaming piles of the Ocote
or candle-wood, placed in iron cradles on the
summits of tall poles. The whole scene was very
novel and. striking to me, as the miners and vil
lagers lay extended and lounging on the earthen
seats wrapped in their variously striped serapes ;
while five of the " milicia" moved about in the
crowd to preserve order.
The ladies kept us plentifully supplied with
cigars, which they also smoked abundantly ; and
in our turn we purchased sugar-plums and sweet
cakes for them during the very short intervals of
smoking. The rope-dancing was tolerable, particularly by
a very fat old woman gorgeously attired, who
seemed in a terrible fright lest she should have a
fall. A boy of about twelve years of age quite as
tonished us by his activity and the variety of his
postures and contortions, which far exceeded any
thing of the kind I had ever seen in Europe. The

204 ACCIDENT AT GAJUELOS.
tumblers were attended by a clown, who with a
blackened face and much talking greatly delighted
the company. The performances were closed by
a " Comedia" in front of a ragged sheet.
June 21. — Captain Vetch, first-commissioner of
the affairs of the Real del Monte and Bolanos
Companies, arrived from the latter place, for the
purpose of closing accounts with the lessees of the
mines, and putting affairs in order.
June 22. — An accident which happened this
morning in the mine of Gajuelos gives a good ex
ample of the force of prejudice amongst the natives.
One of the miners, in descending by the very awk
ward ladder way, missed his footing, and in his fall
carried another poor wretch to the bottom with him.
He who first fell was instantaneously killed, and the
other man died in two days after the accident. I
went with Dr. Coulter to see the living sufferer
drawn up the shaft in a net ; but we were not per
mitted to examine his hurts, until the priest, who
also attended, had confessed him ; it being a law in
this strange country, that if a man is found even

MINE OF SAN BERNABE. 205
stabbed and bleeding in the street, no good Sama
ritan may venture to stop his wounds until the
Alcalde has seen him and the Padre has taken
his confession. Thus the law and the gospel,
instead of saving, are often the means of destroy
ing the life of an unfortunate being, who by timely
assistance might have been snatched from death.
June 25. — The periodical rains, which had been
anxiously expected for some time but had been
kept back by a continuance of easterly winds, now
set in with considerable force.
June 28. — On this day we rode into Zacatecas,
which was my first visit there. The road to it
lies over the summits of the high ridge of moun
tains, and is about as uninteresting a route as can
well be imagined. Here and there the buildings
and Malacates of various mines break to a cer
tain extent the monotony of the prospect ; and in
a hollow to the eastward of the road lies the re
markable mine of San Bernabe, still in work, and
reputed to have been one of the first which was
opened after the Conquest. The individual who

206 MINE OF SAN BERNABE.
then possessed it soon acquired great wealth ; and
although of obscure birth, married the daughter
of the Viceroy, which gave rise to the following
lines, since become a kind of standard saying
amongst the miners of the neighbourhood : —
" Si la Mina San Bernabe
No daria tan buena Ley
No casaria Pedro Barra
Con la Hija del Virey."
The first appearance of Zacatecas as the travel
ler approaches from the northward is peculiar and
pleasing. The city stands in a deep basin at the
foot of a picturesque and abrupt mountain, called
the Bufa ; and the entrance by the suburbs is
through a gravelly water-course, in which groups
of women are seen washing clothes. We paid a
visit of ceremony to his excellency general Lobato,
some short time since a very respectable cobbler at
Jalapa, and now commander in chief of the " Free
and Sovereign State * of Zacatecas." He was un-
* Estado libre y soberano.

ZACATECAS. 207
well and confined to his room ; but we were re
ceived by his lady, a thin talkative little woman,
who abused both miners and mining in most un
qualified terms ; and by her sister, a large, greasy,
half-dressed maiden, with black moustachios and
nut-brown teeth. The ladies sat huddled up in a
corner smoking ; and the tiled floor, on which re
posed an immense dog and her puppies, was
strewed with extinguished cigars and their ashes,
cabbage and lettuce leaves, and other filth which
had fallen from five bird-cages hung along the
centre of the room.
Two unshaven and unwashed cavaliers were
paying their morning compliments to La Generala,
and the whole scene was such, that I retired from
it with no very favourable ideas of the beau monde
at Zacatecas. Having made equally gratifying
visits to one or two other of the most distinguish
ed families, we rode home in the rain, which now
fell regularly every day at about two or three
o'clock in the afternoon.
From our great elevation above the extensive
plains we were enabled to command most mag-

208 RAINS.
nificent views of the progress and formation of
the clouds as they swept in large black masses,
at an equal height, over the low grounds, and
on reaching the mountains bounded as it were
from summit to summit accumulating in their
progress all the smaller vapours, and then with
heavy thunder and vivid lightning breaking, and
deluging for a few hours the whole country be
neath. The outline of the storm was invariably
so clearly defined, as it rushed towards us from the
east, that while one half the heavens was blacken
ed by the growing tempest, the western sky was of
a bright and cloudless blue, and the plains glowing
beneath the dazzling rays of the sun.
July 9. — On the 9th a party of English arti
ficers and miners, under the charge of my friend
Mr. Tindal, arrived from Real del Monte, and
passed through Zacatecas at the time it was
most crowded with people, who on Sundays
flock from the neighbourhood to attend the mar
ket. On these occasions they generally get drunk,
when they become quarelsome and too frequently
use their knives against each other. It was an

ARRIVAL OF THE ENGLISH MINERS. 209
unlucky moment for strangers to appear amongst
them, and they availed themselves of it to quar
rel with the English and to throw stones at
them; — had not a party of the city "milicia"
been sent to protect the new comers on their way
to the Veta Grande, some serious consequences
might have ensued. The Custom-house officers
having taken it into their half-tipsy heads that
the baggage of the travellers contained some arms,
stopped it all in the middle of the town, and Mr.
Tindal and I were obliged to ride there to settle
matters. By humouring the crowd, who were
already ripe for mischief, we kept them in tolera
bly good temper ; but no sooner were our backs
turned, than we were saluted with a half merry
half saucy hiss, and they honoured our retreat
with a few stones.
Considerable ill-will was also manifested to
wards the strangers by the miners at the Veta;
and when they appeared singly, they were pelted.
An attack was actually made at night on the door
of the house in which they were quartered, and it
vol. i. p

210 DISLIKE OF THE NATIVES.
was battered with stones. Four ringleaders of the
assailants were taken up and imprisoned, and on
the following morning a threatening paper which
had been pasted on our stable gates and on the
door of the Alcalde was brought to us.
July 10. — Captain Vetch addressed a very strong
remonstrance to the authorities of the village, re
specting the conduct of the natives ; but on the suc
ceeding morning similarly intolerant papers were
again placarded in a kind of doggrel rhyme.
On the 12th I went to reside at the Hacienda
de Sauceda, at which the .silver is beneficiated *.
This establishment is situated about five miles
N. E. of the Veta Grande, at the beginning of the
ascent from the plains. It was decided that this
retired spot should be my head-quarters; and
having discharged the native Administrador, who
defrauded us of a considerable sum of money, I
assumed his office and conducted the concern.
The little quiet village of the Sauceda, with the
comparatively gentle manners of its inhabitants,
* Extracted from the ore.

VILLAGE OF THE SAUCEDA. 211
were quite delightful after the bustle of the
crowded Veta ; and it was not one of my smallest
gratifications, to enjoy for a whole week a room
to myself. The eastern front of the gallery in
which I lived looked into the "Patio" or large
paved court, in which the silver ores are submitted
to the process of amalgamation ; and beyond its
walls the eye could roam for twenty-five miles
over a plain terminated by a low line of moun
tains, at whose foot a white church pointed out the
situation of the Real or mining district of Ramos.
The recent rains had achieved wonders in the
rugged barrancas ; many places having changed
their brick-coloured hue for a lively green, while
small bushes peeped here and there from the cre
vices of the rocks near the water-courses; the
plains too looked fresher and more cheerful; — in
fact, I had changed my residence from one of the
most desolate spots which could be imagined, to
a better situation, and all nature wore a more
pleasing aspect in consequence.
Of our domestic affairs I may mention that the
p 2

212 COLEGIO OF
first English child was born at the Veta Grande ;
and at the same time a little humming-bird died,
which I had kept for nearly a month on sugar
and water slightly impregnated with saffron. It
greedily sucked this mixture from a small quill;
and I am sure that with constant attention these
little creatures might be kept for a long time.
Jidy 15.- — The first-commissioner left for Real
del Monte, and a party of us accompanied him to
the Colegio of Our Lady of Guadalupe, to which
we had been invited. This convent is situated at
the foot of the mountains about a league to the
eastward of Zacatecas, and surrounded by a little
village which has arisen on the sanctified spot. It
has a very pleasing appearance, being embellished
by about two dozen trees. The Fathers received
us most kindly; and with the attentions of the
Padre Guardian and Padre Maldono (Macdonald,
an Irishman), we passed a very agreeable evening ;
were regaled with a good supper, and a separate
cell with a clean bed was provided for each of us.
July 16. — Making an early tour of the convent,

OUR LADY OF GUADALUPE. 213
we first visited its library, consisting chiefly of re
ligious works bound in parchment, to the amount
of 11,000 volumes. None of them were particu
larly remarkable either for type or age, and I in
quired in vain for old Mexican MSS. or objects
of antiquity ; which, as this society of friars are all
Missionaries, I expected they would have collected
on their visits to the more remote districts and
tribes in New Spain. The Colegio, which is large,
is profusely ornamented with very ill-executed
paintings, chiefly relating to the life of San Fran
cisco, who in power and miracles very far ex
ceeded the Saviour, the latter being actually re
presented attending him as a menial servant.
One picture particularly amused me, as the best
specimen of the Fuseli school I ever saw. It re
presents the Jewish council debating upon the
proposed seizure of our Saviour. They are a
grave and venerable party, but each has, perched
either on his head or shoulders, a devil, who is
whispering his wicked thoughts.
All these imps, however, are painted with the

214 COLEGIO OF
most laughably roguish snouts and eyes, and the
oddest claws and tails imaginable; while the el
ders, perfectly unconscious of their strange as
sociates, are very serious, communing with each
other. The church and chapels have nothing re
markable, except one very highly esteemed show,
where Joseph and Mary in gorgeous apparel are
kneeling near a wilderness of gold tinsel wire;
while around them are a confused variety of little
images not a twentieth part of their size. Amongst
the multitude is one female Chinese figure, with
the usual dead white face and long eyes, and an
other Chinese woman bearing a child made of soap-
stone. The most grotesque, however, is a little
drunken Dutch farmer in leather breeches and a
red waistcoat, who is placed very properly in the
foreground to prevent the scandal his company
would throw on the other idols. One eye is open,
and its fellow is closed, with an air of slyness and
roguery which gives a most comical expression to
his tipsy face. This is perhaps the first Dutch
saint which has ever been worshiped in Mexico.

OUR LADY OF GUADALUPE. 215
Nothing could be more refreshing than the ex
tensive gardens, crowded with apple-, pear-, fig-,
and quince-trees. There were also some vines,
pomegranates, peaches, and apricots. Immense
rose-hedges rendered the walks in many places
shady and sweet, and the whole was well cultivated,
— a kind of Oasis in fact, in the desert of Zacatecas.
We were all much pleased with our visit, which
gave great satisfaction to the Fathers, who were
happy to entertain any one from the mines, whence
they draw the chief part of their very uncertain
revenue in return for confessions and masses, as
well as by begging, according to the law of their
order, from all the cottagers.
The poor friars of Guadalupe are a much-en
during race, and should not, I conceive, be classed
with the herd of drones who batten so uselessly on
the public in Mexico. These do actually endure
all the poverty which their vow enjoins, and their
whole life is devoted to voluntary suffering. They
have no personal property beyond one coarse
gray woollen dress, which is never changed until

'2i6

COLEGIO OF

worn into holes; and it then, having fully at
tained the odour of sanctity, sells for twenty or
thirty dollars, as the burial garment of some
devotee, who is supposed to smuggle himself into
heaven in so holy an envelope. They wear neither
shirt, stockings, nor any other articles of dress
than a pair of sandals ; and in the high cold moun
tains of the northern states, or low in the burning
plains of the Tierra Caliente, no change of habit
appropriate to the climate, is permitted by the
rules of the order.
The Colegio de Guadalupe was founded ex
pressly for the purpose of furnishing missionaries
" para conquistar," or for the conversion of the
Indians of Texas, California, or indeed any bar
barous northern tribes ; and about half the friars
of the establishment are constantly absent on these
pious errands. A vast number of these poor men
have perished from absolute want on their weary
journeys, being sent forth without money or
even an animal to carry them, and dependent
on charity for their subsistence. Many also have

OUR LADY OF GUADALUPE.
been barbarously sacrificed by the wild IncIMISj-V
yet the missions are constantly maintained >^d
with success ; since in the most retired and inWraP
pitable parts of the northern states, communitie
of some thousand Indians may be found living
under the spiritual guidance of one or more of
these poor friars; although the faith which is
taught them is so modified from the Mexican re
ligion, in order to suit their habits and capacities,
that the name of " Christiano" is all of Christianity
which they learn. Amongst a barbarous people
the Missionaries, although themselves most grossly
ignorant, appear gifted with almost supernatural
acquirements, scarcely inferior to the Saints and
Martyrs whose absurd legends they so strenuously
inculcate. The Padres, who reside in their turns
in the Colegio, undergo a life of perpetual mortifi
cation, with but little rest ; — constant prayers with
meagre diet. In addition to this, they retire at
seven in the evening to a darkened room having
only one small taper burning before a crucifix :
here for one hour they flog themselves with a

218 COLEGIO OF
small whip of twisted wires, called a disciplina,
and sing the "Miserere" during the penance. I
have in my possession one of these instruments of
torture ; and were every penitent to give himself
but half a dozen good strokes with it, I should be
lieve their assertion, " that the hall of contrition is
sometimes covered with blood." A few of these
poor enthusiasts may occasionally strike a good
fair blow; but human nature is such, that I con
ceive honest Sancho Panza's hint for unseen fla
gellation is not thrown away upon the greater
part of them.
After having undergone the discipline, at which
it is said some of the poor wretches faint, the
whole community, with downcast eyes, arms fold
ed on their breasts, and in perfect silence, retire
to their respective cells, where they may sleep or
meditate until aroused at midnight to perform
their religious exercises for the space of three
hours. Novices are admitted to the order at six
teen years of age ; at seventeen they may profess.
Before the expiration of the first year, however,

OUR LADY OF GUADALUPE. 219
they are permitted to retire ; an advantage of which
they rarely avail themselves, the convent being so
much revered in the neighbourhood that an admis
sion to it is thought as honourable as retirement
would be considered disgraceful. At twenty-four
they may perform the sacrifice of the mass; and at
twenty-six hear confessions. The Padre guardian
is elected every three years ; but his situation, far
from being a desirable one, entails on him more
labour and trouble than is imposed on his brethren.
The poor recluses have but two enjoyments per
mitted to them. On Thursdays and Sundays they
play at quoits for three hours, and on great festi
vals no discipline is required.
We returned to the Hacienda by the plains, now
covered with bright young herbage, which appears
with the rains and withers when they cease. A
cloudless sky and glowing sun had called from
their hiding-places innumerable little animals of
the marmot tribe, called " Tusa." This pretty
creature is somewhat smaller than an ermine, and
is of a yellowish gray colour ; it burrows exten-

220 CHRISTENING.
sively in the plains, and where large communities
of them exist, the footing is dangerous for horses.
July 23. — This was a day of much bustle and
confusion, in which we had a full opportunity of
ascertaining the extent of the religious prejudices
against us. The infant of one of our artificers,
to whom I was to be godfather, was 'to be christ
ened in the church of the Veta Grande ; and as se
veral English children had received that ceremony
without opposition or comment in the city of Mex
ico, no impediments were expected here ; the two
ceremonies of the Catholic and Protestant churches
being, with the exception of language, nearly the
same. The day was passed in long letters and ob
jections, which ended in an injunction that the here
tical godfather was not to approach the baptismal
font. It was late at night before all was settled, and
our party proceeded to church; but as the other En
glish were not permitted to be present at the cere
mony, I of course retired with them; and the child's
father, with a native servant whose knowledge of En
glish condemned him also as a heretic, were turned

CHRISTENING. 221
out with the rest. I walked indignantly home, and
was soon followed by those who had waited in the
sacristy, bringing the baby, which after all was not
christened by the name that was intended, but by
some fancy of the very reverend and most Chris
tian Padre was called Jose Bonaventura, after which
the intended name Jorge (George) was added.
My retreat very much discomposed the priest
and his attendants, who imagined they should make
a very good harvest of poor little Jose Bonaven-
tura's christening. And while all the business was
pending, and I was waiting in no very good hu
mour the result of a discussion with which I was
tired, the following most agreeable hints were sup
plied to me, as the intended godfather.
1st. The church would be splendidly illu
minated in honour of the English, for
which of course the Padre would expect Dollars.
an extra fee  12
2ndly. The organist intended doing himself
the honour of playing an anthem after
the ceremony  4

222 CHRISTENING..
3rdly. The sacristan on so joyful an occa
sion could not possibly be presented with
^ J r Dollars.
a smaller sum than  4
4thly. A notary, from a disinterested wish
to render the ceremony as respectable as
possible, would have the pleasure of be
ing present to register it  4
5thly. Two little choristers would put on
their red cloaks in honour of the event . 4
6thly. A scramble of meclios (silver three
pences) were to be thrown by the delight
ed Padrino amongst the joyous crowd . 10
7thly. Medios spick-and-span new were, ac
cording to an old custom, to be present
ed to every acquaintance and decent per
son in the crowd*  10
Total . 48
To say nothing of the gifts which I was to make to
the native godmothers ; one of whom, the fat old
housekeeper, rustling in black silks and smoking
* This gift is also usual at weddings, and is called "Bola."

CHRISTENING. 223
like a furnace, I did make happy by the present
of a Birmingham comb in the form of a tiara.
Had the young Christian been the child of a
prince he could not have created a greater sensa
tion ; but as both father and godfather had been
expelled the Catholic temple, no one was present
to answer the demands after the baptism. The or
gan gave forth no joyous peal; the notary did not
make his appearance ; and although the sacristan
and choristers remained in their full uniform, no
one was found to reward them for their attention.
At last, to the total discomfiture and astonishment
of the Padre, the discovery was made that the babe
was the son of a stone-mason, and that he would
be paid accordingly !
July 29. — An intelligent Cura having given Mr.
Tindal and myself some information respecting
the ruins of an ancient Indian city about fourteen
leagues to the southward of Zacatecas, on the road
to Villa Nueva, we took advantage of a holiday and
rode out to see them. Passing through Zacatecas,
we travelled four hours in the first instance over

224 RUINS OF AN INDIAN CITY.
mountains, and latterly on an extensive plain
devoted to pasturage, until we reached a small
picturesque Rancho, called El Fuerte. Beyond
this, at about one mile, we passed a massive and
magnificent Presa (or dam), made to form a
large tank of water. It extended about four hun
dred yards across a gentle valley, and was of ex
cellent masonry, supported by immense buttresses,
so as to resist the weight of water at its back, and
which was a store for the supply of the beautiful
Hacienda of Mai Paso, stretching some leagues to
the southward. The plain we had ridden over
was destitute of trees, but in the vale of the Ha
cienda they abounded, and were in rich foliage.
Large herds of fat cattle and horses were grazing
in the extensive pasture districts: all bespoke wealth
and good management, and was the more striking
to us after having lived amidst the barren hills of
the Veta Grande. The country about here was
thickly strewed with masses of gray porphyry, and
chalcedony in nodules was very abundant.
Having ridden five leagues beyond Mai Paso,

RUINS OF AN INDIAN CITY. 225
we arrived at sunset at the N. W. corner of the iso
lated hill on which the ruins we were in search of
were situated; and having examined a small artifi
cial cave with two entrances scooped in the por-
phyritic rock, we rode on another league to the
Hacienda La Quemada, where with great difficulty
and much entreaty we procured a night's lodging
in a hut.
July 30. — On the following morning we set out
on our expedition to the Cerro de los Edificios,
under the guidance of an old Ranchero, and soon
arrived at the foot of the abrupt and steep rock on
which the buildings are situated. Here we per
ceived two ruined heaps of stones flanking the
entrance to a causeway ninety-three feet broad,
commencing at about four hundred yards from
the cliff.
A space of about six acres has been inclosed by a
broad wall, of which the foundations are still visible,
running first to the south and afterwards to the
east. Off its south-western angle stands a high mass
of stones which flanks the causeway. In outward
VOL. I. Q

226 LOS EDIFICIOS.
appearance it is of a pyramidal form, owing to the
quantities of stones piled against it either by de
sign or by its own ruin'; but on closer examination
its figure could be traced by the remains of solid
walls to have been a square of thirty-one feet by
the same height : the heap immediately opposite
is lower and more scattered, but in all probability
formerly resembled it. Hence the grand cause
way runs to the N. E. until reaching the ascent to
the cliff, which, as I have already observed, is about
four hundred yards distant. Here again are found
two masses of ruins, in which may be traced the
same construction as that before described ; and it
is not improbable that these two towers guarded
the inner entrance to the citadel. In the centre
of the causeway, which is raised about a foot and
has its rough paving uninjured, is a large heap of
stones, as if the remains of some altar, round which
we could trace, notwithstanding the accumulation
of earth and vegetation, a paved border of flat
slabs arranged in the figure of a six-rayed star.
We did not enter the city by the principal road,

LOS EDIFICIOS. 227
but led our horses with some difficulty up the steep
mass formed by the ruins of a defensive wall, in
closing a quadrangle 240 feet by 200, which to
the east is still sheltered by a strong wall of un
hewn stones eight feet in thickness and eighteen
in height. A raised terrace of twenty feet in width
passes round the northern and eastern sides of this
space, and on its S. E. corner is yet standing a
round pillar of rough stones, of the same height as
the wall, and nineteen feet in circumference.
There appear to have been five other pillars on
the east, and four on the northern terrace; and
as the view of the plain which lies to the south
and west is hence very extensive, I am inclined
to believe that the square has always been open
in these directions. Adjoining to this we entered
by the eastern side to another quadrangle, entirely
surrounded by perfect walls of the same height and
thickness as the former one, and measuring 1 54 feet
by 137. In this were yet standing fourteen very well
constructed pillars, of equal dimensions with that in
the adjoining inclosure, and arranged four in length
Q2

228 LOS EDIFICIOS.
and three in breadth of the quadrangle, from which
on every side they separated a space of twenty-three
feet in width, probably the pavement of a portico of
which they once supported the roof In their con
struction, as well as that of all the walls which we
saw, a common clay having straw mixed with it has
been used, and is yet visible in those places which
are sheltered from the rains. Rich grass was grow
ing in the spacious court where Aztec monarchs
may once have feasted; and our cattle were so de
lighted with it that we left them to graze while we
walked about three hundred yards to the north
ward, over a very wide parapet, and reached a per
fect, square, flat-topped pyramid of large unhewn
stones. It was standing unattached to any other
buildings, at the foot of the eastern brow of the
mountain, which rises abruptly behind it. On the
eastern face is a platform of twenty-eight feet in
width, faced by a parapet wall of fifteen feet, and
from the base of this extends a second platform
with a parapet like the former, and 118 feet wide.
These form the outer defensive boundary of the

LOS EDIFICIOS. 229
mountain, which from its figure has materially fa
voured their construction. There is every reason
to believe that this eastern face must have been of
great importance. A slightly raised and paved
causeway of about twenty-five feet descends across
the valley in the direction of the rising sun, and
being continued on the opposite side of a stream
which flows through it, can be traced up the moun
tains at two miles distance, until it terminates at
the base of an immense stone edifice, which proba
bly may also have been a pyramid. Although a
stream (Rio del Partido) runs meandering through
the plain from the northward, about midway be
tween the two elevated buildings, I can scarcely
imagine that the causeway should have been form
ed for the purpose of bringing water to the city,
which is far more easy of access in many other di
rections much nearer to the river, but must have
been constructed for important purposes between
the two places in question ; and it is not impro
bable, that it once formed the street between the
frail huts of the poorer inhabitants. The base of the

230 LOS EDIFICIOS.
large pyramid measured fifty feet, and I ascer
tained by ascending with a line that its height
was precisely the same. Its flat top was covered
with earth and a little vegetation; and our guide
asserted, although he knew not whence he received
the information, that it was once surmounted by a
statue. Off the S. E. corner of this building and
at about fifteen yards distant, is to be seen the
edge of a circle of stones eight feet in diameter,
inclosing, as far as we could judge on scraping
away the soil, a bowl-shaped pit, in which the ac
tion of fire was still plainly observable ; and the
earth, from which we picked some broken pieces of
pottery, was evidently darkened by an admixture of
soot or ashes. At the distance of one hundred yards
S. W. of the large pyramid is a small one, much
injured and twelve feet square. This is situated
on somewhat higher ground, in the steep part of
the ascent to the mountain's brow. On its eastern
face, which is towards the declivity, the height is
eighteen feet; and apparently there have been steps
by which to descend to a quadrangular space, ha-

LOS EDIFICIOS. 231
ving a broad terrace round it, and extending east
one hundred feet by a width of fifty. In the cen
tre of this inclosure is another bowl-shaped pit,
somewhat wider than the first. Hence we began
our ascent to the upper works, over a well but
tressed yet ruined wall, built to a certain extent,
so as to derive advantage from the natural abrupt
ness of the rock. Its height on the steepest side
is twenty-one feet, and the width on the summit,
which is level with an extensive platform, is the
same. This is a double wall, one of ten feet having
been first constructed and then covered with a
very smooth kind of cement, after which the se
cond has been built against it. The platform which
faces to the south, and may to a certain extent be
considered as a ledge from the cliff, is eighty-nine
feet by seventy-two ; and on its northern centre
stand the ruins of a square building, having with
in it an open space of ten feet by eight, and of the
same depth. In the middle of the quadrangle is
to be seen a mound of stones eight feet in height.
A little further on we entered by a broad opening

232 LOS EDIFICIOS.
between two very perfect and massive walls, to a
square of 150 feet. This space was surrounded
on the south, east and west, by an elevated ter
race of three feet by twelve in breadth, having in
the centre of each side, steps, by which to descend
to the square. Each terrace was backed by a wall
of twenty feet by eight or nine. From the south
are two broad entrances, and on the east is one of
thirty feet, communicating with a perfect inclosed
square of 200 feet, while on the west is one small
opening, leading to an artificial cave or dungeon, of
which I shall presently speak.
To the north, the square is bounded by the
steep mountain; and in the centre of that side
stands a pyramid with seven ledges or stages,
which in many places are quite perfect. It is flat-
topped, has four sides, and measures at the base
thirty-eight by thirty-five feet, while in height it is
nineteen. Immediately behind this, and on all that
portion of the hill which presents itself to the
square, are numerous tiers of seats, either broken
m the rock or built of rough stones. In the centre

LOS EDIFICIOS. 233
of the square, and due south of the pyramid, is
a small four-sided building, seven feet by five in
height. The summit is imperfect, but it has un
questionably been an altar ; and from the whole
character of the space in which it stands, the pe
culiar form of the pyramid, the surrounding ter
race, and the seats or steps on the mountain, there
can be little doubt that this has been the grand
Hall of Sacrifice or Assembly, or perhaps both.
Amongst the stones of the altar Mr. Tindal killed
a blue-tailed lizard, which is rare, and one of the
most beautiful little creatures of the species, and
the bright ultramarine blue of the tail is not ex
celled by any artificial colour. In a curious old
book * I found a description of this creature, with
the account of a superstition which exactly corre
sponds with one existing in Africa with respect
to the Ourral, a large kind of lizard. — " They are
poysonous, and thirst after the blood of breeding
women ; and they report that if a woman, or but
* Lionel Wafer's Voyage to the Isthmus of America.
A.D. 1677.

234 SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGE.
her clothes do touch this creature, she will after
wards prove barren."
Passing to the westward, we next saw some
narrow inclosed spaces, apparently portions of an
aqueduct leading from some tanks on the summit of
the mountain, and then were shown the mouth of
the cave, or subterraneous passage, of which so
many superstitious stories are yet told and be
lieved. One of the principal objects of our expe
dition had been to enter this mysterious place,
which none of the natives had ever ventured to do,
and we came provided with torches for the pur
pose : unfortunately, however, the mouth had very
recently fallen in, and we could merely see that it
was a narrow well-built entrance, bearing in many
places the remains of good smooth plastering. A
large beam of cedar once supported the roof, but
its removal by the country-people had caused the
dilapidation which we now observed. Mr. Tindal,
in knocking out some pieces of regularly burnt
brick soon brought a ruin upon his head, but
escaped without injury; and his accident caused a

SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGE. 235
thick cloud of yellow dust to fall, which on issuing
from the cave assumed a bright appearance under
the full glare of the sun ; — an effect not lost upon
the natives, who became more than ever persua
ded that an immense treasure lay hidden in this
mysterious place. The general opinion of those
who remember when the excavation was clear is,
that it is very deep, and from many circumstances
there is a probability of its having been a place of
confinement for victims. Its vicinity to the great
hall in which there can be little doubt that the
sanguinary rites of the Mexicans were once held,
is one argument in favour of this supposition ; but
there is another equally forcible, — its immediate
proximity to a cliff of about 1 50 feet, down which
" the bodies of victims may have been precipitated,
as was the custom at the inhuman sacrifices of the
Aztecs *. A road or causeway, to be noticed in
another place, terminates at the foot of this preci-
* The writings of Clavigero, Solis, Bernal Diaz, and
others, describe this mode of disposing of the bodies of those
whose hearts had been torn out and offered to the Idol.

236

RUINS OF DIFFERENT BUILDINGS.

pice, exactly beneath the cave and overhanging
rock; and conjecture can form no other idea of its
intended utility, unless as being in some manner
. connected with the purposes of the dungeon.
Hence we ascended to a variety of buildings,
all constructed with the same regard to strength,
and inclosing spaces on far too large a scale for
the abode of common people. On the extreme
ridge of the mountain were several tolerably per
fect tanks, one of which approached the brow of a
precipice, and was admirably strengthened in that
direction, as may be observed by the diagram.

In a subsequent visit to this extraordinary place
I saw some other buildings, which had at first es
caped my notice. These were situated on the

RUINS OF DIFFERENT BUILDINGS.

237

summit of a rock terminating the ridge at about
half a mile to the N.N.W. of the citadel. Their
disposition may be better understood by the ac
companying rough plan.

K || 50 feet
50 feet (Bjo
Altar

238 RUINS OF DIFFERENT BUILDINGS.
No. 1. is a building originally eighteen feet
square, but having the addition of sloping walls to
give it a pyramidal form. It is flat-topped, and on
the centre of its southern face there have been
steps by which to ascend to the summit. No. 2. is
a square altar, of which the following is a sketch,

its height and base being each about sixteen
feet. These buildings are surrounded at no great
distance by a strong wall, and at a quarter of a
mile to the northward advantage is taken of a
precipice to construct another wall of twelve feet
in width upon its brink. On a small flat space
between this and the pyramid are the remains of
an open square edifice, to the southward of which
are two long mounds of stone, each extending
about thirty feet; and to the N.E. is another ruin,

ANCIENT CAUSEWAYS. 239
having large steps up its side. I should conceive
the highest wall of the citadel to be three hundred
feet above the plain, and the bare rock surmounts
it by about thirty feet more.
The whole place in fact, from its isolated situa
tion, the disposition of its defensive walls, and the
favourable figure of the rock, must have been im
pregnable to Indians, and even European troops
would have found great difficulty in ascending to
those works, which I have ventured to name the
Citadel. There is no doubt that the greater mass
of the nation which once dwelt here, must have
been established upon the plain beneath, since
from the summit of the rock we could distinctly
trace three straight and very extensive causeways,
diverging from that over which we first passed.
The most remarkable of these runs S.W. for two
miles, is forty-six feet in width, and crossing the
grand causeway is continued to the foot of the
cliff, immediately beneath the cave which I have
described. Its more distant extreme is termi
nated by a high and long artificial mound, im-

240 ANCIENT CAUSEWAYS.
mediately beyond the river towards the Hacienda
of La Quemada. We could trace the second
S.S.W. to a small Rancho named Coyote, about
four miles distant. And the third ran S.W. by S.
still further, ceasing, as the country-people inform
ed us, at some mountain six miles distant. All
these roads had been slightly raised, were paved
with rough stones still visible in many places
above the grass, and were perfectly straight.
From the flatness of the fine plain over which
they extended, I cannot conceive them to have
been constructed as paths, since people who walked
barefoot and used no animals of burthen, must
naturally have preferred the smooth earthy foot
ways, which presented themselves on every side, to
these roughly paved ones. If this be allowed, it
is not difficult to suppose that they were the
centre of streets of huts, which, being in those
times constructed of the same kind of frail mate
rials as those of the present day, must long since
have disappeared. Many places on the plain are
thickly strewed with stones, which may once have

ANCIENT CAUSEWAYS. 241
formed building materials for the town ; and there
are extensive modern walls round the cattle-farms,
which not improbably were constructed from the
nearest streets. At all events, whatever end these
causeways may have answered, the citadel itself
still remains, and from its size and strength con
firms the accounts given by Cortez, Bernal Diaz,
and others of the conquerors, of the magnitude and
extent of the Mexican edifices ; but which have
been doubted by Robertson, De Pauw, and others.
We observed also, in some sheltered places, the
remains of good plaster, confirming the accounts
above alluded to; and there can be little doubt
that the present rough, yet magnificent buildings,
were once encased in cement and whitened, as an
cient Mexico, the towns of Yucatan, Tabasco, and
many other places are described to have been *.
The Cerro de los Edificios and the mountains
of the surrounding range are all of a gray por
phyry, easily fractured into slabs, and thus with
* See the Voyage of Juan de Grijalva, in 1518 : also Bernal
Diaz, Cortez, Clavigero, and others.
VOL. I. R

242 CONJECTURES AS TO
comparatively little labour has furnished building-
materials for the edifices which crown its summit.
We saw no remnants of obsidian amongst the
ruins or on the plain, — which is remarkable, as
being the general substance of which the knives
and arrow heads of the Mexicans were formed * ;
but a few pieces of a very compact porphyry were
lying about, and some appeared to have been
chipped to a rude form resembling arrow heads.
Not a trace of the ancient name of this interest
ing place, or of that of the nation which inhabited
it, is now to be found amongst the people in the
neighbourhood, who merely distinguish the iso
lated rock and buildings by one common name,
Los Edificios. I had inquired of the best in
structed people about these ruins; but all my
" It is not improbable, however, that this material was un
known to the nation who dwelt here, if, according to the
Abbe Clavigero, this city was one of the earliest settlements
of the Aztecs, before they established themselves in the
valley of Mexico, near which (at Real del Monte principally)
the obsidian is found in great abundance, although I believe
that no traces of it are seen in the more northern provinces.

THE NAME OF THE CITY. 243
researches were unavailing, until I fortunately
met with a note in the Abbe Clavigero's History
of Mexico, which throws some light on the sub
ject. " The situation of Chicomoztoc, where the
Mexicans sojourned nine years, is not known ; but
it appears to be that place, twenty miles distant
from Zacatecas, towards the south, where there are
still some remains of an immense edifice, which
according to the tradition of the Zacatecanos, the
ancient inhabitants of that country, was the work
of the Aztecs on their migration ; and it certainly
cannot be ascribed to any other people, the Za
catecanos themselves being so barbarous as nei
ther to live in houses nor to know how to build
them *."
* Clavigero, vol. i. book ii. p. 153. — Torquemuda says
that the capital city of the Chechemecas was called Amaque-
macan. He says this place was 600 miles distant from where
the city of Guadalaxara now stands. Clavigero, who quotes
this passage and comments upon it in a note, says, that " in
more than one thousand two hundred miles of inhabited
country beyond that city, there is not the least trace or me
mory of Amaquemacan." — May not the city I have described
be the capital in question? R 2

244 PIEDRA DEL MONARCA.
After having employed eight hours in our ram
ble, we rode homewards by another route, where
wonders, which in the estimation of our guides
threw the city into shade, awaited us. These were
an immense block of porphyry, called "Pie-
dra del Monarca, " on which tradition reports that
Montezuma (how he came so far from home does
not appear) once reposed himself after some ar
duous toil. There is a natural or artificial inden
tation on the time-worn stone, somewhat resem
bling the print of a naked foot, which mark we
were gravely informed had been caused by actual
pressure ; and although our dim sight could riot
trace the outline of a monstrous hand and fingers,
corresponding but ill with the probable size of the
monarch's foot, the people saw it very clearly, and
took much pains to point it out to us.
In the evening we reached Mai Paso, and pro
cured a room in its very miserable meson. This
place, quite a little town of itself, is the property
of a rich old gentleman of seventy, whom we saw
sitting in his balcony, with his head bound up in

MAL PASO. 245
a dirty handkerchief, and attended by his wife, a
young woman of twenty-five. A very pretty little
church stands near the Casa Grande, and has six
bells mounted on a coarse series of low stages in
front of it. Under a portico or gallery we saw
hanging the stuffed skins of five pumas or Mexican
lions, of a light dun colour ; four lion cubs; twelve
gray wolves and two black ones, very much re
sembling dogs, and which probably were a cross
between a wolf and a dog *. The lions had been
taken in pitfalls, and it is customary to course
the wolves and laso them when heavy and inactive
after a plenteous meal.
Being anxious to obtain a sketch of this place, I
sat down quietly with my book for that purpose,
but was interrupted by loud cries of " Pleyto !
Pleyto !" (a quarrel) which burst from the little
street of herdsmen's huts. There I found three
men with long knives, striking and stabbing each
other most furiously, but they were soon sepa-
* In the house of Mr. Ward, charge d'affaires in Mexico,
I saw a dog and female wolf which had bred together once.

246 laso.
rated and led off to the Casa Grande, each wound
ed in different parts and covered with blood.
August 2. — Business obliged me to ride to the
city on this day, to demand justice against a de
faulter to the Company; and when the offender
had confessed himself a rogue and bound himself
to pay over the large sum of which he had robbed
us, the judge, thief, plaintiff, and master of the
house where the affair was canvassed, with some
friends of the parties, sat down very quietly and
sociably to dinner together !
August 4. — Having purchased 150 horses for
the service of the mines, at twelve dollars (equal to
2/. 85.) each, the process of casting, and branding
them with the Fierro or distinguishing mark,
took place on the following day, when I witnessed
to perfection the whole process of the laso.
The animals having been driven into an in
closed space, it was quite extraordinary to see a
small light man on foot engage in an operation
which a novice would imagine must hurl him in
an instant to the ground. On the contrary, the

CHASE OF THE COYOTE. 247
animal he selects, rushes past him at full gallop ;
but the noose is no sooner thrown over its fore
legs, than he fixes himself in a firm position, and
so resists the sudden check of the laso, that the
impetuous animal is brought with such tremendous
force to the ground as frequently to turn over once
or twice after his fall.
This active day brought me into acquaintance
with our chief Ranchero, whom I commissioned
to catch some coyotes, as the chase of these ani
mals is one of the favourite amusements pf the
hardy Vaqueros, who display their skill in the
laso and in horsemanship in taking them. When
a chase is meditated on some holiday, an old
horse is killed on the plains, and a herd of
coyotes soon flock to feast upon him. They are
watched attentively; and when any leave the
carcase, which is only when they are replete,
the active horsemen enter on the chase, in which
they are very rarely baffled by the wily turnings of
their victims. In form, colour, and habits, the coyote
closely resembles the jackal of the Sahara of Africa.

248 ACCIDENT IN THE MINE.
August 8. — A serious accident occurred to a poor
boy, who fell from a gallery, dislocating his wrists,
and otherwise bruising himself very sadly. I found
him surrounded by a crowd of people, who had
nearly smothered him in the folds of serapes to
the total exclusion of air, taking it for granted that
his recovery was impossible. I bled him, and I set
his arms ; and in a few days my patient was able to
get about again, to the great admiration of the vil
lagers, who were divided as to whether the cure
was to be attributed to my interference, or to that
of San Juan Bautista, on whom the lad had called
most vociferously while I was pulling his arms. —
The saint, I believe, gained the day ; but my fame
was also established, and my door and path conse
quently were beset by patients ; particularly rheu
matic old women, on whom I effected wonders,
by the unheard-of prescription of soap and water.
I visited no patients who were not properly wash
ed ; — sick men now shaved off their beards, which
operation they had hitherto believed would in
crease their disorder; and many a poor child's

inhabitants. 249
head was deprived of that cake of black mud,
which according to the belief of the Mexican mo
thers acts as a preventive to the baby "taking
cold in its brains." No assurances of mine would
convince the villagers that I was not a medical
man, and all sorts of cases therefore came under
my care. I thus obtained an influence at this re
tired spot, by which, in time, I might have intro
duced improvements in the houses and occupa
tions *of the natives, who some of them showed
their gratitude for my attention to their requests
by a morning present of a flower or a nosegay
from their little gardens.
I really left the little village of La Sauceda with
some feeling of regret, as there were many kind-
hearted people there, whose character I was now
beginning to understand, and which was so much
more amiable than that of their Zacatecan neigh
bours. Two or three very worthy priests were in
the habit of attending the chapel on particular
days, and I conceive that to their good opinions of
me, much of the civility which I received may be

250 inhabitants.
attributed. I walked unarmed about the village
at any hour, and never once met with an insult ;
and if I entered a hut, its inmates always appeared
flattered by my visit. A crowd of people assem
bled to give me a very sincere "Adios" when I
mounted my horse to leave them ; and I look back
to my two months residence among them with
much satisfaction.

MINES OF ZACATECAS. 251

CHAPTER IV.
Account of the Mines and Miners of Zacatecas, and Opera
tions of treating the Ores — City of Zacatecas — Population
of the District.
JL he interest which has been excited in England
respecting the mines of Mexico, induces me to
give a short account of those at which I have been
resident at this place. It is to be observed that
the operations here have been carried on upon the
Mexican system, and without the introduction of
English improvements which have been ably com
menced in other places.
The chief mineral riches of Zacatecas lie in a
cluster of high arid mountains extending about
six miles to the northward of the city, and rising
abruptly from the surrounding extensive plains.
The Veta Grande is situated nearly in the centre,
and from its superior size and great produce is
now deservedly pre-eminent. Many small mines

252 MINES OF ZACATECAS.
are dispersed around this rich vein in all directions,
and their workings have been, as with the Veta
Grande itself, attended with more or less success,
owing to a peculiarity attendant on the veins in
this district. This is their tendency to lie in rich
bunches, or Bonanzas, in the ordinary course of
the lode ; and mine holders who have been about
to abandon their undertakings in despair, have
not unfrequently struck on one of these unex
pected nests of wealth, which have in a few months
yielded to them princely fortunes. The family of
Fagoaga, distinguished latterly by the Marquisate
del Apartado, are amongst the most favoured of
those who have been thus fortunate, and their
great riches proceeded in a principal degree from
the Veta Grande of Zacatecas. This has in seve
ral instances yielded enormously, and the returns
from that portion distinguished under the names
of Milanesa, Urista, Macias and others in their
turns, have been immense.
The Veta Grande has been worked for a vast
number of years, yielding always, when not in

MINES OF ZACATECAS. 253
Bonanza, a poor but abundant ore, lying in a
hard matrix of a quartzose nature, bounded by
"walls" of very compact porphyry.
In width it varies from nine to sixteen fathoms,
and although its extreme extent is somewhat be
yond the possessions of the company, the portion
in their hands runs nearly east and west to the
length of 2500 varas.
The mines have been extensively worked, as
from their produce and antiquity may very natu
rally be expected. Much however remains un
touched; and when the vastness of the place is
considered, I see no just reason why other Bo
nanzas may not, if boldly sought, be again disco
vered. The mines are deep, and, in consequence,
somewhat wet, although they by no means bear
the condemning title of " wet mines " as applied in
Cornwall. The water is easy, and does not flow in
any quantity or from springs, the deposit in the
deep mines being rather from filtration than other
wise ; increasing gradually after the rains, and in
the dry season being easily kept. A great portion

254 MINES OF ZACATECAS.
of the present produce therefore, necessarily goes
towards the expenses of drainage, by one great shaft
of Desague, designated as the Tiro general. To
the planes or bottom of this shaft is 396 varas; but
the water is only kept to beneath the 300 vara
level, leaving the old workings for the greater part
drained, but preventing the sinking of shafts on
discovery, unless increased drainage is applied. It
is to be seriously lamented, that the great scarcity
of wood in the immediate neighbourhood of Zaca
tecas precludes the use of a steam power, by
which the desague or drainage might be easily ef
fected, and a vast expense avoided. In the pre
sent state of things, it is requisite that four mala-
cates or horse whims should, night and day, be
employed constantly, to keep the water to its pre
sent level. There are, in fact, six of these ma
chines, the two extra ones being merely employed
on cases of emergency ; and all stand under three
united sheds of a great size, covered with wood
shingles, and called galeras. For the service of
each malacate, fifty horses are requisite, with relays

MINES OF ZACATECAS. 255
of drivers, men to attend the tackle, and receive
and empty the water-skins or botas as they are
raised to the surface *. The vast expenses atten
dant on this may be imagined ; and could these
be in any way immediately avoided, the sum ex
pended on it would add greatly to the profits of
the concern. A Socabon, or adit, would overcome
very much of this difficulty ; but it would take much
time to complete this work, and objections might
be made to so large an outlay as would be requi
site for its accomplishment, although it is evident
that its expense would be far less than two years'
desague by the present process.
* The total number of horses thus employed, — the mules at
the Veta, and those for the Arastres or Tahonas at the Ha
cienda, the asses which carry ore, and the horses employed
to tread the Tortas, — exceeds 1200. It is in consequence of
the fluctuation in the price of fodder for these animals, that
no correct annual estimate can be made of their cost. A dry,
or even too wet a season destroys the crops of maize ; and
grain which in one year may be procured for seven reales the
fanega, can scarcely be obtained in the following, under
twenty, thirty, or even more— so that in so large an establish
ment there may in' some years be an increase of expense in
this article alone, to the amount of 30,000 dollars.

256 MINES OF ZACATECAS.
The workings of the last possessors of the Veta
Grande, previous to its delivery to the Bolanos
company, were left in many instances in so choked
a state, that ventilation was much impeded ; and
time and labour have been absolutely requisite to
restore this important object, by clearing the levels,
and in other ways putting things in order. A mine
which has been carelessly worked, as far as air,
order, and facility of access go, presents obstacles
to those whose object it is to remedy these evils,
which cannot be imagined by persons unacquaint
ed with mining operations ; and in the Veta Grande
much was required in this way, and much has been
accomplished. Many of the dressing-floors situated near the
mouths of the principal shafts were easily accessi
ble to plunderers, from the inefficient state in
which their walls were left — some had no walls at
all. These are now properly inclosed ; the dress
ing-floors are levelled and in better order, and
much improvement is perceptible in the surface
work of the mines.

PROCESS OF BREAKING THE ORES. 257
The process of breaking, selecting and dividing
the ores, as delivered immediately from the re
spective workings, is performed by men under
the superintendence of native ore-dressers, who
keep an account of the quantities received, their
weight after selection, and of their delivery to
the " Conductor, " whose duty it is to carry the
ores to the Hacienda of La Sauceda. For this
purpose there are two hundred fine asses, which
are each laden with two leather bags, containing
together one carga, of three quintals, equal to
300 pounds. The bags are weighed at the Patio, or
dressing-floor, registered, and an account is sent
to the Hacienda, whence a receipt, on their being
again weighed, is returned. The process of amal
gamation, as practised with such success and su
perior expedition (compared with other mines) at
the Sauceda, is most fully detailed, in every one of
its. stages, in a paper which I wrote after two
months study of the subject, and which is in the
Appendix. The Hacienda, as before stated in my journal,
vol. i. s

258 PROCESS OF BREAKING THE ORES.
is about five miles to the N.E. of the Veta Grande,
so near the foot of the mountains that laden wag
gons approach it with the greatest facility from the
adjoining plains, and a command of water for the
purposes of amalgamation can constantly be ob
tained by means of a noria or water-wheel.
The bars of silver are sent from the Hacienda
to the Veta on the Saturday, thence on Monday
they are forwarded to the Mint at Zacatecas,
(which is unquestionably the most effective one in
the Republic of Mexico;) and on Friday of the
same week" the coined dollars are returned to the
Veta, so that they can be employed in the pay
ment of the labourers and other expenses on the
Saturday, only one week from the time of casting
the silver into bars. The expenses incurred in the
mint will also appear in the Appendix, showing the
total cost of changing the metal into currency.
Here it may not be amiss to give some descrip
tion of the Mexican, or perhaps more properly,
the Zacatecan Miner. These people are not, as
is generally supposed, Indians. I seldom saw a

ZACATECAN MINERS. 259
pure Indian in a mine in this part of the country,
but they are generally tinged in some degree with
Indian blood, although I conceive that their affi
nity to the Whites is somewhat the nearest. They
are in fact mostly Creoles, of a deep tawny hue,
with jet black glossy hair, dark eyes, and a pene
trating expression of countenance seldom met with
in the Indian. In stature they are of the middle
size, usually of a spare muscular habit, active and
enduring in labour, and when sober, or not under
the influence of the intolerant feelings which are
in this district so visible towards foreigners, are a
lively, somewhat tractable race. When inflamed
by liquor, or their passions are excited, they are
violent, bloody, and revengeful. In time, however,
I conceive that their character will change very
materially for the better ; since I believe sincerely
that, if unurged by some few bad and more intelli
gent spirits than themselves, they are capable of
attachment, and have many good qualities. Their
wages are high, and in consequence they are im
provident ; spirits, the universal passion for gam-

260 CLIMATE AT THE MINES.
bling, and the extravagant dresses of the females
of their family, unite to swallow up their well-
earned wages, and the poverty incidental to their
want of care and foresight is never attributed to
the true cause. The mendicant friars also deprive
them of a considerable portion of their pay ; as on
the settling days, large subscriptions are made at
the pay table for the good of various religious es
tablishments. The climate at the mines is extremely healthy,
the temperature mild in summer and somewhat
cold in the winter, varying in each a few degrees
from that of the Hacienda, where during the two
months of July and August the thermometer
ranged from 64° in the night, to 74° at mid day.
I am sorry that it is not in my power to say
much in favour of the city of Zacatecas, which I
believe was once the capital of a powerful nation,
(the Zapotecas,) who were subjugated with great
difficulty by the troops dispatched by Cortez for
that purpose after the conquest of Mexico *. I ac-
* Vide Bernal Diaz.

CITY OF ZACATECAS. 261
knowledge a dislike to both the natives and the
town, which I only entered five or six times on
business ; and I had no idle time on my hands, had
I been disposed to make my visits more frequently.
Thrice I so far succeeded inattracting public at
tention as to be hooted at as a Jew, and once had
the honour of being pelted with stones. The fre
quent use of the knife is also a sufficient discou
ragement to a stranger's visiting the city. Murder
is too slight a crime to merit punishment, — and
during the month of May, twenty-one assassina
tions took place without a single person being
brought to justice.
The town itself is good, but from the inequali
ties of the ground the streets are short, uneven and
crooked. In some of these are foot pavements, and
the place generally speaking is clean. The churches
are large and very well built, and the Parroquia
(the parish church) is certainly a noble edifice. Its
front is superbly ornamented, and entirely covered
with rich carving in stone ; the architecture of the
belfrv is beautiful. Its font is one of the wonders

262 PARROOUIA OF ZACATECAS.
of Zacatecas, being entirely of silver, and weighing
3793 ounces. The execution however is greatly in
ferior to the material. " This baptismal font was
presented on the 20th of November 1800, by Dona
Maria Anna de la Campalos, countess of San Mat-
teo Valparaiso, in remembrance of her having re
ceived the waters of holy baptism in this church,
under the condition that if any other should present
a better font, this shall be removed to the church of
Sombrerete. The weight of this font is 474marcos
and one ounce." The above is engraved round
the margin of this ornamental "Pila," which stands
in a small room tawdrily painted in fresco, and
bearing on its walls a variety of most extraordinary
verses in a doggrel style, which I am not suffi
ciently skilful to translate,
The market of Zacatecas is tolerably supplied
with fruit and vegetables, chiefly the produce of
the Barrancas near Guadalaxara ; but the natives
consume so little of the latter compared to Euro
peans, that the supply exhibited in the morning
would appear insufficient for one of our small vil-

MINT AT ZACATECAS. 263
lages. The principal, and to us the most interest
ing building, is the Mint, which has recently been
put in very excellent order at considerable expense,
and is unquestionably the best of the five in the
Republic. Three excellent dies can be kept con
stantly at work, and each averages, if strictly at
tended to, forty-seven dollars a minute ; which,
allowing eight working hours to the day, gives
22,560 dollars. The milling process is ingeniously
arranged, and the casting is the only defective part
of the establishment, which is able on receiving
the bars of silver from the mines on the Monday,
to deliver their amount in dollars by the Friday
following, — a very great advantage to the proprie
tors ; whereas in the Mint of the city of Mexico,
a much longer period must elapse before the re
turns are made. La Casa del Ayuntamiento (or
del Estado,) is really a magnificent building, per
fectly clean and well ordered. Here all the pub
lic offices are established, and the sovereign con
gress of the state (Soberano Congreso) assemble.
There is no lack of friars of various denomina-

264 FRIARS.
tions in Zacatecas, of which the Blue Franciscans
are considered the most dissolute. Their respec
tive convents are, as usual, the finest buildings in
the place, and their influence, although somewhat
on the decline, is still very extensive.
The governor resides in the city, as does also
the general of the state, to whom I paid a visit.
There are no troops in the town beyond the
"Milicia," a circumstance on which the inhabi
tants pride themselves not a little ; but which is
to be deplored, as one reason for the state of dis
order and anarchy which so frequently reigns; for
in other towns where there are garrisons, better
order is preserved.
No manufactures of any importance are carried
on here, with the exception of a government esta
blishment (Fabrica) for making cigars, of which
the consumption in every part of the country is
almost incredible.
Foreign merchandize is to be procured from se
veral very good shops, but is expensive on account
of the distance of its transport ; and the only com-

SITUATION OF ZACATECAS. 265
merce of Zacatecas is with the neighbouring towns,
of which, as the capital, it is the focus.
When viewed at a mile distance, either from the
north or westward, Zacatecas has a most beautiful
and imposing appearance, lying at the foot of an
abrupt and picturesque porphyritic mountain,
named the " Buffa," whose rugged summit is
crowned by a neat church and a small fortress
which was erected during the revolution. There
is a narrow Alameda attached to the city, border
ed by a row of young trees, the only ones which
the natives have been at the trouble of planting,
although very little care and expense would quickly
clothe many parts of the mountain with timber,
and remove that air of desolation and barren
ness which surrounds " the mother of the mines."
A quantity of small huts are scattered about near
the city, of which the population, exclusive of these
mining villages, is said to be 25,000 ; but this I
consider as about double the truth. The country
is healthy and the climate pure and agreeable,
averaging during my residence, a general tempe-

266 PEOPLE OF THE MINING DISTRICTS.
rature between 64° and 74°, but being from its
elevation very cold in the winter season. The sky
is here usually very clear and brilliant, with the
exception of the season of the periodical rains, and
the natives live to an advanced age, if not of that
class attached to the mines, among whom the free
indulgence of spirits must tend considerably to
shorten the period of existence.
The people of the mining districts have the cha
racter of being more lawless and unruly than those
whose occupations are different; and whatever
may be the truth of this imputation as regards
other mining states, the Zacatecanos are some
what worse than their neighbours. I do not
however conceive that the mining interests of fo
reigners can now be materially or even slightly af
fected by the waywardness of the operatives. Mex
ico is a country newly awakened from a long dream
of ignorance and oppression ; and as much im
provement is already observable to the residents
in the country, more may naturally be anticipated,
although its progress must, I conceive, be slower

PEOPLE OF THE MINING DISTRICTS. 267
in the state of Zacatecas than in the more central
provinces, since the natives possess more bigotry
and intolerance than their neighbours ; and any
improvements introduced by men of a different faith
from themselves will for a period be received with
distrust, and were at first exposed to insult. It will
scarcely be believed that there should exist a people
in a nominally civilized country, who yet believe
in Lord Monboddo's ingenious theory of tails, — yet
so it is ; that the English, or indeed all foreigners,
being considered as Jews, are supposed to be or
namented by these appendages ; and many people
can be found who firmly believe that our stirrups
being placed more forward on our saddles than is
the custom of the country, is to allow of our stoop
ing a little so as to prevent the friction of the sad
dle from inconveniencing the rider's tail.
It is to this bigotry that the circumstances of in
sults with which some of our people were received
on their first arrival, are to be attributed. The
prejudice of the people, influenced by the ignorant
priesthood, induced them to look with jealousy

268 PEOPLE OF THE MINING DISTRICTS.
upon all foreigners as heretics. This prejudice is
greater in these northern states than in the other
parts of the Republic, and may be attributed in a
great measure to the little intercourse they have
had with Europeans, and will wear off gradually
with the general improvement which this country
must experience. In other parts of the Republic
our countrymen have been well received.

FROM ZACATECAS TO BOLANOS. 269

CHAPTER V.
From Zacatecas to Bolanos — Villa Nueva — Native Tea —
Warm Springs at Encarnacion — Manufacture of Cigarros
— Colotlan — La Aguila — Town of Bolanos — Rope Dan
cers — Guichola Indians — Ball.
August 18. — Having made the necessary arrange
ments in regard to my duties at this place, I now
commenced my tour to Bolanos arid the other esta
blishments of the Real del Monte and Bolanos com
panies, previous to my return to England ; leaving
my friend Mr. Tindal, who for this purpose with
great kindness agreed to postpone for a few months
his return to England, to occupy my place, in charge
of the Hacienda, while Dr. Coulter remained in
management of the mines of the Veta Grande. I
took leave of the Hacienda in the evening, and
sleeping at the Veta, left it on the afternoon of the
19th of August. My party consisted, besides my
self, of two native servants, two arrieros, some

270 RATTLE-SNAKE.
laden mules, and a few spare saddle-horses, with
which I was about to traverse between three and
four hundred leagues, before my embarkation for
Europe. We reached Mai Paso soon after dark,
and thoroughly soaked by the rain, an inconve
nience for which we could find no alleviation in
the comfortless Meson.
August 20. — I set out for Villa Nueva, and on
my way devoted half an hour to the examination
of a portion of the Edificios, which had before es
caped my notice. In riding slowly up the rugged
side of the mountain, my horse suddenly made a
full stop ; and I saw immediately before him a large
rattle-snake with open mouth which appeared dis
posed to dispute our passage. Wishing to obtain
this reptile as a specimen, I was rather careful in
killing him with stones, and therefore had a good op
portunity of hearing his rattles to great advantage ;
ascertaining also that the story of three warnings
could not in this instance be relied upon, since the
rapid vibration of the tail continued unabated until
the creature was killed. Its colour was much lighter

VILLA NUEVA. 271
than that of those exhibited in England ; and al
though it had eight rattles, the length was only
three feet eight inches. The fangs, however, were
very large, and I dropped a dollar through its mouth
with the greatest ease. It is generally believed by
the natives that the bite of the rattle-snake is rare
ly fatal, and that a solution of nitric acid applied
to the wound as a lotion is an effectual cure.
Passing through the Quemada, at the distance
of eight leagues from Mai Paso, and fifteen from
Zacatecas, we arrived at the pretty little town of
Villa Nueva, where with all our live stock we be
came the guests of Don Jose Maria Marques, an
old friend of our Negociacion.
Our ride from La Quemada had been over a
smooth grassy plain, whence by a gentle descent
we entered a narrow valley abounding in flourish
ing little gardens and plantations of maize, and
passed into the town through a small grove of
fresh-looking poplars, beneath which some lively
and well-dressed groups of country-people were
making merry.
In the evening a procession of some celebrated

272 PROCESSION OF THE VIRGIN. — NATIVE TEA.
Virgin moved through the town, preceded by fid
dles, fifes and guitars, and followed by a prodi
gious number of women. All the people who did
not join in the train stood at their house doors,
and we knelt until the idol had passed. The whole
ceremony was conducted with great solemnity un
til a loud screaming announced the arrival of an
enraged cow, which dispersed the worshippers in
all directions, and drew the attention of the young
men from more serious subjects to their favourite
amusement called Colear, which consists in trying
to throw cattle by a peculiar manner of catching
them by the tail, — an operation which soon drove
the intruder bellowing down the street.
My hostess presented me for supper with a cup
of native tea, which some stranger, whose name or
nation I could not understand, had gathered on a
Rancho, the property of Don Jose, and where he
said the plant was to be found in great abundance.
In the form of the leaves and flavour of the infu
sion it struck me that this was a species of the
China tea-plant, and I advised Don Jose to make
diligent search for so valuable and important a

ENCARNACION. — TOWN OF VILLA NUEVA. 273
production. I very much regretted my inability
to visit the Rancho whence the tea had been ga
thered, as also to extend my trip about three
leagues to the S. W., where is situated the Ha
cienda of Encarnacion, the property of the Mar
ques del Xaral, — one of the richest proprietors in
the Republic of Mexico, and celebrated for the su
perior breed of horses which he possesses on his
estate. Encarnacion is interesting, as having some warm
springs of a most agreeable temperature for the
bathing of invalids. The waters are said to con
tain nitre and lime in solution.
At about five leagues to the eastward are other
baths, also warm, and strongly impregnated with
sulphur. These belong to a Hacienda called " Te-
petistaque," through which also runs a stream
abounding with a fish called Bagre, resembling the
catfish of brackish rivers.
August 21. — The town of Villa Nueva is neatly
built, possesses some good shops, and has a popu
lation, according to Don Jose, of 6000 souls. It
VOL. I. T

274 MANUFACTURE OF CIGARROS.
is one of the depots of tobacco, which under the
new as well as the old regime is a strict govern
ment monopoly. While the mules were being sad
dled, Don Jose very obligingly accompanied me
to the " Fabrica," — a large well-arranged house, in
which 400 men and 350 women are constantly em
ployed in the manufacture of " Cigarros." This is
the name given to those formed of cut tobacco en
veloped in paper, while the term " Puros" is ap
plied to the rolled tobacco leaf which in Europe is
commonly called a cigar. Distinct portions of the
house with separate entrances are appropriated to
the sexes, who are distributed in long rooms having
several rows of benches. Each labourer has a small
basket with a certain weight of rasped tobacco, and
sufficient papers ready cut to contain it when made
into cigars ; and when this proportion is dis
posed of, it is rigorously weighed and registered.
From three to four reales is the average price
of a day's labour, which commences at 5 a. m.
and ends at the same hour in the afternoon. The
expedition with which some of the most active

FROM ZACATECAS TO BOLANOS. 275
people rolled the cigars was quite extraordi
nary, and there are many who complete 4000 in a
day. The product of the last four days and a half
had been 121,309 " Cajas" or paper parcels, each
containing thirty-two cigars, making a total of
3,881,888 ! the expenses of working which was
1115 dollars. The cajas are sent to the market
packed in chests, each containing 4300. The dis
tribution of labour at this establishment is very well
arranged : from the makers the cigars are carried
to the counting-room, where they are expeditiously
made into cajas, and pasted in a paper bearing the
stamped seal of government. The work-people
are strictly examined, that they neither introduce
liquor or weapons, and both sexes are searched
nearly to the skin before retiring for the night, for
which purpose female searchers, " Registradoras,"
are stationed at one door, and men at the other.
At eight I set out on my journey, but not until
I had received a large lamb, roasted whole, from
my hospitable friend, who assured me that I should
otherwise fare very ill on the road. The morning
T 2

276 FROM ZACATECAS TO BOLANOS. -
was delightfully fine, and we passed for about five
miles over a plain thickly covered with young
maize, amongst which the countrymen were turn
ing up the furrows with small light ploughs drawn
by two oxen, with their heads tied up very high to
prevent their eating the fresh green blades. From
hence we entered amongst the mountains, where
for the remainder of the day our road was very
bad. At seven leagues, having toiled up the Cer
ro de Membrillo, we descended that of Huacasco,
by a road not easily forgotten, to a deep wild dell, in
which we stopped for a time at the small Rancho
de Huacasco. Here we ate Tortillas and drank
whey in the house of a poor woman who had never
in her life seen a foreigner, nor moved one league
from the spot on which she was born. I gave her
a fine brass ring as a souvenir of this visit, and
having told her I was "Yngles," received with her
thanks the assurance that she had never heard of
such people.
In a ride of three leagues over the mountains, the
road descended to a small fertile vale, rich in ma-

VILLAGE OF COLOTLAN. 277
guey and maize, near the pretty little shady Rancho
of Tenasco. Hence again entering on the mountains,
we did not reach the village of Colotlan until long
after night-fall, having occupied eleven hours and a
half in riding fourteen leagues. The day having been
very sultry, my animals were much fatigued ; yet we
could find neither food nor a resting-place for them,
it having happened that a rope-dancer had recently
arrived from Guadalaxara, and all the Colotlan
world who could muster three-pence had flocked to
see his performance. Men and cattle, therefore,
wentsupperless and comfortless to bed. The moun
tains amongst which we had this day travelled, were
of red porphyry, coated in many places with chal
cedony ; and a peculiarity of form was observable
throughout, or with very few exceptions. They
were for the most part crowned by an abrupt
naked ledge of rocks resembling a wall; above
which was a space of perfectly level land, whereon
trees were very rarely seen growing. The lower
ground on the contrary was thickly clothed with
stunted oaks, (amongst which I observed one spe-

278 VILLAGE OF COLOTLAN.
cies resembling the Quercus diver sifolia, mimo
sas, and tuna. The whole country was abun
dantly covered with fine grass, offering a most
striking contrast to the brown arid deserts around
Zacatecas. Amongst so much verdure I could not
but observe the devastation which the numerous
communities of ants had caused, by clearing the
ground of every vegetable substance to the diame
ter of six to ten yards around their thickly-peopled
mound, which was usually elevated about a foot
above their circle of desolation.
August 22. — Being unable to procure food for
my hungry cattle until late this morning, I was
obliged to give up all idea of travelling further till
the cargo mules had been refreshed. I therefore
occupied the early part of the day in rambling by
the banks, and bathing in the small turbid river
which flows through the valley of Colotlan, and
affords with its attendant gardens and fruit-trees
some delightful scenery. Maize is here extensive
ly cultivated, and the maguey grown in consider
able quantities. Being lodged in the room of the

VILLAGE OF COLOTLAN. 279
Ayuntamiento, or Town-hall, adjoining to the com
mon gaol, my windows were constantly filled with
gazers from the crowd, who in the Mexican villages
are always to be seen assembled round the prison
bars, where all the gossips concentrate, and all im
portant village questions are discussed.
In the evening I received a visit from a very
great man, the Gefe Politico, whose duties I could
never clearly understand; but he brought with
him a Licenciado, a Secretary, and a numerous un
shaven train of attendants, with whom I had a long
conversation upon the subject of the penal code of
Xalisco*, which, as well as the trial by jury, my
visitors informed me was copied from the laws of
England. The criminal code of Zacatecas was
spoken of with high contempt, as having no defi
nite punishment for murder; while that of Xalisco
was vaunted as a pattern to the Republic. I after
wards found that this was not exactly the case ;
that not a single law is ever put in force, and that
* The State of Guadalaxara.

280 VILLAGE OF COLOTLAN.
the impunity of crime at the one place fully equals
that of the other.
While we were debating on these important
subjects, the sensitiveness of the chief authorities
as to criminal matters was put to a sufficient test
by a loud outcry from my neighbours in " du
rance vile," who were fighting with knives, and
had wounded one of their number. This was an
admirable foundation for a display of justice: but
alas ! cutting and maiming are not mentioned in
the penal code ; and the gaoler very jocosely made
his report of the " Cuchillada," at which the au
thorities all laughed, and then continued their con
versation. The most intelligent of my visitors was
a pure Indian, proprietor of a Rancho, and of the
Tlascalteco nation, who with some Chichimecos
de Soyatitan and Tochopa Tepehuanes are esta
blished in the town and its neighbourhood.
Spanish is the only language now generally
spoken by these people, although many still re
tain in their domestic circles the dialect of their
ancestors. There are in Colotlan and its vicinity

FROM ZACATECAS TO BOLANOS. 281
(all of whom come in to the Sunday's mass) 7000
souls, governed by the Gefe Politico, an Alcalde
(who is an Indian), an advocate, and two Alcaides
to the prison ; from which strong hold I was seve
ral times accosted by a noisy fellow, with " I say,
John English — ha ha ! my boy!" which, unfor
tunately for further conversation, was my friend's
whole stock of English.
August 23. — Our road, although mountainous,
was good throughout the day, and maize fields
were frequent. In five leagues we reached a re
tired shady village of a few huts named Cartagena,
standing at the head of a small valley, through
which runs a picturesque little river of the same
name. Its course at this place was to the north
ward, where making a short turn it is said ulti
mately to connect itself with the river of Bolanos.
We forded the stream, which at this time was little
more than two feet in depth ; but it is said to in
crease very much after heavy rains, when its course
is impetuous, and serious accidents frequently oc
cur in passing it. At these times passengers are

282 FROM ZACATECAS TO BOLANOS.
slid from bank to bank upon a rope, and animals
are conducted across by dexterous swimmers, who
are paid very highly for this service. Here I
drank some excellent Pulque under the shade of
a fine Mesquiti tree, from which station I could
keep a watchful eye upon my cargoes, as well as
admire the surrounding scenery, — the natives of
Cartagena being celebrated for their ingenuity in
depriving a mule of its load. We now immediately
ascended to the higher land, where by the road
side we passed two well-dressed but suspicious-
looking men, seated amongst the bushes ; and evi
dently, from their manner, on the look-out for our
selves or some other travellers. They followed us
for some little distance, having their Serapes so
disposed in folds about their persons that we could
not see if they carried arms : but either disliking
our number, or being disappointed in others who
were to have joined them, they soon disappeared
in the mountains. Passing several small Ranchos,
we ultimately ascended a mountain clothed with
three species of dwarf oaks, one resembling the

FROM ZACATECAS TO BOLANOS. 283
Ilex in its leaf; a second being gnarled and tor
tuous, and with leaves like our English species ;
the third was straight and slender in limbs and
branches, averaging about twenty feet in height,
but bearing leaves which were almost all from
twelve to sixteen inches in length : specimens of
these I have brought to England with me, one
measuring nineteen, another twenty-one inches in
length. I lamented that no acorns were at this
season on the trees ; but many of those of the last
year lay on the ground, half-decayed and worm-
eaten; they were not larger than our ordinary kinds
in England. This species is, I conceive, a variety
of the Quercus macrophylla, or Large-leaved Mex
ican oak, described by Louis Nee* as having the
leaves a foot long.
The mountains are of a compact white free
stone, much discoloured at the surface, and strew
ed in many places with pieces of porphyry and
fragments of black lava. The pass is about three
miles in length, after which, leaving a rude woody
* See Rees's Cyclopaedia, article " Quercus,"

284 FROM ZACATECAS TO BOLANOS.
gorge with high cliffs on our left, we descended
between steep rugged rocks to a very smooth and
verdant plain, in the centre of which are the little
huts of Salitre*. In one of these I slept, and early
on the following morning (August 24) set out for
Bolanos. The plain was cultivated for a few miles
with maize, now in a very forward state, amongst
which I had two ineffectual shots at a distant deer,
and having advanced nearer was about to take
more certain aim, when a man galloped up to me
at full speed, declaring that the creature was tame;
and to exemplify this, he turned his horse's head,
when the pretty animal followed him playfully at a
rapid pace across the country. About four miles
from our outset we entered the mountain passes,
which are on a most magnificent and beautiful
scale; and for several hours we continued winding
amongst close thickets of the broad-leaved oak,
and a species of mimosa, bearing a small yellow
puff or flower which gave forth a most delicious
fragrance. Late in the afternoon we reached the
* Fourteen leagues from Colotlan.

LA AGUILA. 285
extreme crest of the mountains, and on rounding
a little flowery bank a scene of indescribable
grandeur presented itself. To the left is a dizzy
cliff, La Aguila, 1 500 feet in height ; its summit
dazzling beneath the rays of the sun, while its
outline was finely marked by a dense mass of
thunder-clouds in the distance behind it. A deep
woody dell crossed from what then appeared to be
its base, to a smaller but no less beautiful preci
pice which bounded the view to the right; and the
dark border of this connecting wood was sharply
drawn against a purple and distant range of moun
tains to the westward, fringed on their summits
with towering pines,' which stand at an elevation of
5000 feet above the Barranca of Bolanos.
Our road lay along the foot of La Aguila until
we reached the crest of the mountain which hems
in the woody dell, whence a glorious view of the
valley or Barranca of Bolanos, at a depth of 2000
feet, burst suddenly upon the sight ; its shining
river running through the beautiful vale, and the
Hacienda of Tepee just showing the tops of its

286 TOWN OF BOLANOS.
buildings from amidst the brilliant foliage in which
it is embowered. We occupied nearly two hours
in the difficult and steep descent, under the shade
of a delightful wilderness of trees, of species quite
new to my eye, and twining to the left. After ar
riving on level ground we soon reached the town
of Bolaiios, where in the excellent house of Mr.
Auld, who was in charge of the concern, I found
a most kind welcome.
Having never had the luxury of an entire room
to myself since arriving in the interior, I seemed
now to have entered a palace ; indeed the whole
of the slightly-peopled town bears every appear
ance of having once been of the first order : the
ruins or half-finished remains of splendid churches
and fine buildings of freestone were equal to any
thing I had hitherto met with. There was not a
single mud hut or hovel in the place : all the
dwellings were built of stone, in a superior manner;
and the public edifices now untenanted, the ruins
of immense Haciendas de Plata, and other esta
blishments attached to the mines, all bespoke the

TOWN OF BOLANOS. 287
immense wealth and splendour which must once
have reigned in this now quiet and retired spot.
August 25. — Mr. Auld accompanied me at an
early hour, in a delightful morning, to visit the
Leet Head, or that part of the river which is to be
turned into the canal for the purpose of driving
the water-wheels of the great mine of " Barranco."
This leet commences about four miles to the
northward of the town of Bolanos, and the sur
rounding scenery is really superb : abrupt and
dizzy precipices of freestone confine the valley to
the eastward, and masses of picturesque hills are
covered with verdant and flowery shrubberies;
this being the spring-time of the Bolanos year,
all nature looked so fresh and beautiful, that the
sultry heat was almost forgotten amidst the bright
young foliage, the gurgling of the river, and the
sweetness of the air. It is during, or immediately
after the periodical rains that vegetation appears
to take a new impulse ; and the face of nature un
dergoes a more striking change than is to be seen
in climates where the showers occur at irregular

288 VICINITY of bolaKos.
intervals throughout the year. In the "dry season"
all the surrounding country appears burnt up and
parched ; no bright blade of grass or lively flower
refreshes the eye, and the foliage of the trees ap
pears, although green throughout all seasons, of a
dull unrefreshing hue. I here took some sketches,
though with a full sense of my inability to give
more than a very faint idea of the country around
me. In the evening, Mr. Price took me through
a shady ride at the foot of the mountains to a
little farm named " Comite," situated in a woody
dell, not far from a delicious basin-shaped valley,
which resembles some of those seen amidst the
Alps, and has not unaptly been named " The
Vale of Peace." The paths through which we
rode resembled some of our ornamental coppices
in England, and are continued for many miles
along the depths of the Barranca.
August 26. — My morning was devoted to the
examination of the workings upon the leet ; and
by descending eight of the ten lumbreros, or air-
shafts, I became enabled to judge of the very

ROPE-DANCERS. 289
great progress which had been made in this im
portant undertaking.
As this was the pay day for the native labourers,
the evening was in consequence devoted to merri
ment, which was quite a contrast to those Satur
days meetings which I had seen at Zacatecas. — A
party of itinerant Maromeros (or rope-dancers)
held their exhibition in the large walled yard of a
once splendid mansion, to about eight hundred peo
ple ; which was considered as a very " full house,"
the receipts, at a medio (or three-pence) for each
person, amounting to fifty dollars. The perform
ance, which was exceedingly bad, was nevertheless
highly applauded by the spectators, who were sit
ting or lying in a confused multitude on the bare
ground ; while some few persons of distinction
had taken the precaution to provide themselves
with chairs and stools. During the exhibition of
the tight rope dancers, the spectators derived a
continual fund of gratification from the Pallase
or clown, who particularly delighted the most re
spectable inhabitants by the recital of a coarse
vol. i. u

290 ROPE-DANCERS.
story. While a half-Indian was performing some
clumsy evolutions on the rope, the band, in obe
dience to a signal, suddenly ceased ; and the dancer
having dropped himself into a sitting posture on
the cord, pulled off his high embroidered cap, and
very gravely thus bespoke us: " Caballeros y
Senoras (Gentlemen and Ladies), I beg (suplico)
that as I am about to throw a somerset, you will
subscribe some money to be devoted to the service
of celebrating the holy sacrament of the most
Holy Mass." All rose : — the men took off their
hats with the utmost gravity; — a general silence
prevailed for a moment; and the vaulter, who evi
dently was in great dismay, attempted to throw his
promised caper. Unluckily, however, he failed,
tumbled on his nose, and no money was subscribed
for the " solemn and most holy sacrament, " for
asmuch as the articles had not been fulfilled. To
this succeeded fireworks, tumbling by two little
boys, and performances on the slack rope; in
which the unsuccessful vaulter astonished me by
hanging with the rope at full swing and high above

ROPE-DANCERS. 291
the ground, by one hand, by his heels, his toes,
the back of his neck, and lastly by his teeth. He
concluded with a performance which is said to
have been exhibited by order of Montezuma for
the amusement of Cortez and his officers; and
which I cannot better describe than in the words
of the Abbe Clavigero, substituting however boys
for men. " One man laid himself upon his back
on the ground, and raising up his feet, took a
beam upon them, or a piece of wood, which was
thick, round, and about eight feet in length. He
tossed it up to a certain height, and ' as it fell, he
received and tossed it up again with his feet. Ta
king it afterwards between his feet, he turned it
rapidly round ; and what is more, he did so with
two men" (boys) " sitting astride upon it, one
upon each extremity of the beam." The feat, how
ever, was in the present instance accompanied by
a lively tune from the band, to which the per
former kept excellent time, while he danced, with
his feet elevated beneath the beam, a very neat
and difficult figure throughout the exhibition.
u 2

292 ROPE-DANCERS.
While all these gaieties were going forward, two
or three men constantly occupied themselves in
picking their way through the crowd, and bawling
lustily " sweetmeats and cakes for sale :" and one
old fellow particularly pleased me, by his energetic
yet conciliating appeals to the gallantry of the
gentlemen present, to purchase a kind of " Pan
dulce " which was squeezed into the semblance of
pigs— " What ! Caballeros ! does no one buy my
pigs for the ladies? What! no pigs for the serioras?"
an appeal which had such effect upon the Bolanos
beaux, that many a fair mouth soon blew forth its
cloud of smoke, relinquished its cigar, and swal
lowed a " puerco."
Our evening's entertainments, — all for the price
of three-pence, — were concluded by two comedies
in front of three sheets, which performed the part
of scenery. One was tolerably good, being a muti
lation of Moliere's " Mariage Force :" the other,
which was highly applauded, I will not describe.
The spectators, although a parcel of Indians and
half-casts, the greater part without shirts, would

GUICH0LA INDIANS. 293
have taught a lesson of quiet and good-breeding
to our London audiences, much as we pride our
selves on our superior politeness and decorum ; I
never indeed saw so large a body of people more
perfectly well-behaved, silent, and good-humoured.
August 27. — Sunday being the market-day at
Bolanos, the little square in front of Mr. Auld's
house was crowded with people at a very early
hour ; and about twenty of the Guichola Indians
(of the same race as those seen by Captain Basil
Hall at Tepic) were amongst the traders, selling
a coarse kind of salt which they had brought from
the shores of the Pacific. Each man carried his
short unornamented bow in his hand, and a well
stocked quiver of deer- or seal-skin at his back,
while some also had two or three loose arrows
stuck through their belt. These arrows are of
light slender bamboo, generally fitted with a long
point, of some hard wood, yet a few were headed
by a thin small piece of copper. The dress of the
Indians was principally of a coarse blue or brown
woollen of their own manufacture, formed into a

294 GUICHOLA INDIANS.
short tunic, belted at the waist and hanging a
little way down before and behind. Many had no
other clothing of any kind ; but the breeches of the
few who wore them, were of ill-dressed deer- or
goat-skin, deprived of hair, and not even descend
ing to the knee. At their lower edges are strung
a quantity of slender leather thongs, which are
said to contain an inventory of their goods and
chattels, including wife and children. After some
hours fruitless endeavours to purchase a pair of
these singular articles, I at length succeeded in
obtaining a very ragged and greasy pair, with
which the owner parted most reluctantly, as they
bore the register of his cows, and bulls, and calves.
For my own part I could perceive but little dif
ference in the appearance of these thongs, except
some irregularities of length ; but there seems no
doubt as to the fact of the Guicholas keeping
an account of their property in this peculiar man
ner : Captain Hall received the same account of
the knots of these inventorial breeches. The
men wore round the waist or over their shoul-

GUICHOLA INDIANS. 295
ders several large woollen bags, woven into neat
and very ornamental patterns, and in which they
carried their food, money, or purchases at the
market. All the married men wore straw hats of
a very peculiar form, with wide turned-up rims
and high pointed crowns, which near their tops
are bound round with a narrow garter-shaped
band of prettily woven woollen, of various colours
and having long pendent tassels. These people
cherished a profusion of bushy black hair, in many
cases confined tightly round the crown of theheadby
a band similar to that which encircled the hat ; and
almost every man wore an enormous pigtail, bound
up in other bands, having large heavy- looking tas
sels, which generally descended below the waist.
I was informed that no unmarried man or wo
man may wear a hat, or bind the fillet round the
head ; and as we saw some young people who had
neither of these ornaments, it may, in all probabi
lity be the case. There were two young married
females of the party, each wearing a hat similar to
those of the men ; and one of them had her head

296 GUICHOLA INDIANS.
ornamented with a scarlet band. Two of the men
and one woman came into the house that I might
sketch them. They scarcely understood even a
word of Spanish, but fully comprehended what I
wanted, and were very quiet and good-natured. The
girl wore an immense roll of white beads round
her neck, and from each ear a long bunch, from
which was suspended the half of a little cockle
shell. Her shoulders and body were covered by
a rough coarse cloak of brown woollen, without
sleeves, having merely a hole through which the
head was put ; and she wore also a petticoat of the
same material, barely reaching below the knee : —
she was, as were her countrymen, barefooted;
and I observed that the great- toes of all these
people were much more separated from the others
than is the case with Europeans. In complexion,
feature, hair and eyes, I could trace a very great
resemblance between these Indians and the Esqui
maux, who are, however, somewhat shorter and
more corpulent. They are said to be a very peace
able inoffensive race when sober, but quite out-

SINGULAR CHARACTER. 297
rageous in their drunken fits, when their quarrels
are very bloody. Their marriages are curiously
conducted : since it is the custom for a man to take
his intended wife on trial ; and if, after an indefinite
time, he likes her, they are then married by a
priest or friar, who once a year goes round to
perform this ceremony, and to christen perhaps
the offspring of half the newly married couples.
Should the lady not give satisfaction, she may be
returned to her parents, even if pregnant; and
women who have been thus discarded, are as fre
quently taken again on trial, and ultimately mar
ried, as any others.
The Indians were not the only novelties I met
with on this day ; for I was made acquainted with
a most extraordinary man named by the natives
" Don Justo," and who, for some unknown reason,
has not worn clothing or slept under a roof for
many years. Round his waist he was girded by a
kind of kilt, composed of many hundred little
strips of rags strung and matted into a thick
mass. From his left shoulder, and croj&ingto his

298 SINGULAR CHARACTER.
right side he bore, in the manner of a knight's
ribbon, an infinite number of little coils and
bunches of small rope and twine tied and twisted
together, and round his ancles were hung quan
tities of little straps and pieces of leather, in such
a manner as to cover his feet entirely beneath two
bunches resembling mops. The rest of his person
was completely naked. This singular man pos
sessed an intelligent physiognomy, was quiet and
unobtrusive in his manners, perfectly rational in
conversation, and never begged, although he
would receive, in charity, whatever his few wants
required. The general idea respecting his con
tinuance in this miserable state is, that in conse
quence of some disappointment in love he had
bound himself by a vow to his present wretched
life. I made a sketch of him, which in point of
novelty and peculiarity may vie with the portraits
of any of the worthies in the " Wonderful Maga
zine." August 28. — My clay was again employed in the
underground examination of the mines ; and in the

BALL. 299
evening I was invited to a ball, for which a party
of ladies were assembled in a line of battle at one
end of the room, and keeping up a constant fire
with great seriousness and precision. The rope-
dancers were of the party, and performed the
" Xarabe," a kind of fandango, of which the na
tives are passionately fond. It consists of variously
timed shuffling with the feet, the knees being bent,
the body perfectly erect, and the hands dangling
by the sides, as with sailors in a hornpipe. The
dance, or rather the very dull music, is interrupted
at intervals by a monotonous chaunt from the
dancing woman, or a volunteer from the company,
whose chief merit as a singer appears to consist
in the excessive shrillness of the tones which she
produces through her nose, — a musical peculiarity
distinguished by the name of " Gaugoso." All the
singing, in fact, amongst the lower orders in
Mexico is strictly nasal; and even duets and trios
by ladies of the middle classes are not in parts,
or variously modulated tones, but all the perform
ers sing at once, as loud as they can, in the same

300 BALL.
twanging disagreeable voice, which is considered
as very fine.
There was some bad dancing, by really a very
nice-looking set of young women, — without stays of
course, but very neatly clothed. Great decorum
was maintained throughout the evening ; and one
end of the room was crowded by Leperos in their
blankets, who very quietly squatted down to see
the ball. The clown of the Maromeros, a well-
looking man now that the black paint had been
washed from his face, was much pressed to join
the company ; but the poor fellow modestly stood
at the door, and ruefully shaking the sleeve of his
clean but ragged shirt, declared himself unfit for
such good society ; although some muleteers and
one of the servants were figuring away at a great
rate. Some of the matrons, much to their credit,
had brought their tender charges with them ; and
at intervals between the dances all the duties of
nursing were performed, and the babies again de
posited to sleep in the various corners of the
room.

MINE OF BARRANCO. 301
August 29. — This morning I visited the cele
brated mine of " Barranco," and saw such of the
old workings as are still clear. At this period
nothing was to be brought away as a remembrance
of this place, but half-a-dozen bats, of which im
mense flights now occupied the shafts and levels
whence millions of money had once been extracted.
In the evening I forded the river on horseback, to
sketch the fine extensive ruins of the surface works
of this great concern, which from their superior
masonry and regularity of structure must have
once resembled an immense fortress.
August 30. — I devoted my forenoon to visiting
a very fine unwrought vein of rich copper ore,
situated at the northern extreme of the Canon of
Bolanos, at an elevation of about 600 feet on a
steep mountain near the Leet-head. In the narrow
Barranca at the foot of this place the Mescal
plant is extensively cultivated. Bananas and
oranges abound, and the shingle roof of a small hut,
in which the Vino Mescal is distilled, was just vi
sible amongst the beautiful wilderness of the place.

302 MINES OF BOLANOS.

CHAPTER VI.

Mines of Bolanos — Woods — Leet or Canal — Former expense
of draining the Barranco Mine — Town of Bolanos — Ani
mals, Fruits and Vegetables —Native Indians — Guicholas.
A he mines of Bolanos, now the object of such
important speculations, and whence such valuable
fruits may rationally and confidently be antici
pated, are situated along the eastern level of a deep
Barranca, at the foot of precipitous cliffs which
hem it in on that quarter. The shafts and levels
rarely occur at a perpendicular height of above
fifty fathoms up the steep mountain's side, and the
buildings of the Grass-works lie almost hidden
amongst close thickets and delightful scenery.
The veins for the greater part are in porphyry, in
tersected by strata of crumbling steatite, or soap-
stone, of a variety of colours — red, gray, black,
green, brown, yellow, mottled, and a very pure
white. It 'is owing to this ^' soft ground" that
many of the old workings have suffered conside-

SUPPLY OF TIMBER. 303
rably. Removed from the mineral veins are beds
of a fine white freestone, admirably fitted for archi
tectural purposes; and the towering " Aguila" and
" Bufa," with other cliffs, which in some instances
rise 1500 feet above the wooded slopes of 1000
more, are also of the same material, having for
the most part their strata dipping 45° to the
north. Limestone is found at no great distance
to the south, and the soil in all parts is rich and
abundantly productive, but ill-cultivated, and
hitherto poorly watered. I did not observe that
in any instance the river had been employed for
the purpose of irrigation.
At about seven miles to the westward of Bola
nos is a ridge of rugged mountains, clothed to
their summit with fine firs. Their height above
the river was ascertained by Captain Vetch to be
5000 feet ; and I conceive that they are a part of
the range which the Baron de Humboldt desig
nates as the " Sierra Madre." Rich as they are
in large timber, it is rendered almost useless, as
the mountain roads are so precipitous and bad

304 MINES OF BOLANOS.
that it is almost impossible to transport spars of
any magnitude along them. The present supplies
of wood requisite for heavy machinery are there
fore procured from a distance of ten or twelve
leagues ; but for ordinary purposes, the wood
around the mines would be inexhaustible, with
a hundred times the probable demand. The
immediate valley and steep slope from the foot of
the eastern cliffs runs north and south for about
four miles, without a turn of any importance ; and
the genera] course of the metallic veins is N.N.E.
and S.S.W., slightly deviating occasionally to the
east or westward.
The whole of the mines in the Barranca of Bo
lanos are for a series of years the property of the
English Company of that name, although the
owners and lessors are various. The line to which
the mineral riches are confined is divided for
greater facility of accounts into three portions :
1. Northern Bando.
2. Entermedio.
3. Southern Bando.

MINES OF BOLANOS. 305
The Northern Bando consists of three distinct
sets, which are named Concepcion, Tepee, and Ca-
michin : of these the mine of Concepcion is the
most northerly, having its principal shaft, which is
a considerable way up the woody hill, cleared to
the depth of forty-six varas *. I entered this mine
by a good socabon, (driven through a very com
pact porphyry,) which, with a cross cut on the
lode, had been since the period of the former
workings entirely choked with attle, but has now
been completely cleared ; and hands are driving on
an old working, to cut the lode, which, with a dip
to the N.W., runs N. 60° E., and is from three
to six feet in size. At this period I saw but little
promise in the ores.
The temperature of the mine was 93°, while the
outer air was 83°. Tepee contains the old and
new shafts of Santa Fe, with those of Santa Cruz
and San Cayetano.
I visited the workings of New Santa Fe, those of
* At the depth of thirty varas it has been floored, and a
cross cut has been commenced, south, to the lode.
VOL. I. X

306 MINES OF BOLANOS.
the Old being higher up the mountain, and quite
choked, descending by a shaft of thirty fathoms,
very soundly timbered, and entered a new cut of
1 22 feet, which has reached the lode, above the
back of which an upward rising has been made at an
angle of 45°, to try for the old workings. This cut
is through a soft soap-stone stratum, while the
lode beneath is hard and difficult, and rendered
more so till the communication with the old work
ings is completed, by the extreme closeness and
want of air in the mine. There can be little
doubt that this upward cut will soon reach the old
workings, when there is every reason to expect
good fruits ; since, were ventilation once obtained,
the base of the cutting is the lode itself, and can
be worked at pleasure.
From the extreme closeness of the air (96°) an
extra sum is paid to the Barrateros. It is fortu
nate that the nature of the present cuttings is such
as not to require the process of blasting, — an opera
tion which could scarcely be performed in so con
fined and exhausting an atmosphere.

MINES OF BOLANOS. 307
The next mine on the set is Santa Cruz, which
has not been deemed worthy of trial. To this suc
ceeds San Cayetano, to which I descended by an old
shaft which has lately been cleared and timbered
to the depth of twenty fathoms. The workings in
this mine were formerly very extensive ; and the
miners have recently arrived at large arches of
old labores, very rich in lead, with good indica
tions of silver, among which I found some of that
kind called Petanque. The old works have been
very irregularly driven, so that much of the lode,
which varies from eight feet to eighteen inches in
width, has been left untouched. The ground is
very hard, but there is every reason to expect
good returns when proper trials are made for dis
covery. The chief part of the lead is large-grained,
and of that kind called potter's lead, which is un
productive of silver; but there is also ore of a finer
grain, which promises well. Abundance of each
kind may be procured.
This mine bears an excellent character ; and as
it is very shallow, I should conceive that much
x2

308 MINES OF BOLANOS.
virgin ground may be advantageously explored,
since the mine, in common with all in Tepee, is quite
dry, and no adit has been either cut or required.
Camichin consists merely of a mine and soca-
bon of the same name. Much of the old work
ings have been cleared out; but the works are
stopped for the present.
The socabon is excellent, driven through por
phyry ; but all the workings from it appear likely
to be unproductive, since the extreme hardness of
the rock would render trials for discoveries diffi
cult and expensive. Here the temperature was
only 76°, while the outer air was 89°.
The Intermedio contains the Carolina, Socabon
de los Negros, and the shafts of San Juan (new),
and America.
I first entered by the Socabon de los Negros,
the mouth of which being ill-contrived has been
remedied by a small under cut, with a clack-door, as
the river has sometimes risen in the rainy season
so as to enter the adit. The present entrance is
therefore to be stopped, and communication is to be

MINES OF BOLANOS. 309
effected higher up the hill. A cross cut of eighteen
fathoms has been completed to San Juan's, or
Taylor's new shaft, which has been sunk to the
depth of forty varas, and is the only one over
which a Cornish whim has been erected. Men
were at this time working here on a new level, run
ning S. 9° W., in very hard ground, containing a
narrow lode of lead and silver, neither of which
were very productive. Another set were also dri
ving, N. 20° E., in hard ground, and had not reach
ed the lode. In the first working the temperature
was 90° ; in the second, 92°. The former labor
has been extensive, and the lode has in many
places been entirely cut away.
Carolina has been in work, but is at present
stopped. Four fathoms of new ground have been
opened, and abundance of potter's lead, two feet
wide, can be easily attained. The temperature was
here 94°, although no workmen were under-ground.
America shaft, which was entirely choked, has
been cleared down to water ; but as yet, nothing of
interest has been discovered.

310 MINES OF BOLANOS.
The whole of the mines of the Northern Bando
are dry, shallow, and comparatively but little
worked. Santa Fe and San Cayetano promise to
become productive when active workings shall
be commenced upon them. The other mines in
certain spots also look well. The ruin of these
places has been very great ; but I could not have
believed it possible that so much of the old work
ings should so speedily have been cleared. Very
extensive timbering has been accomplished, and
new levels have been driven, — to the great credit
of the officers in direction of the Negociacion.
The Southern Bando has two sets, Barranco
and Laureles. I entered only the former cele
brated mine, by its magnificent socabon, which
runs a considerable way in before it branches off
to the Guadalupe shaft and to that of San Diego ;
both of which are clear to the adit level, but
choked beneath.
There is little to be seen beyond this, owing to
the ruined state of the mine, which at this part, be
ing above the level of the river, is perfectly dry.

MINES OF BOLANOS. 311
Traces of the rich vein were distinctly visible.
Above-ground, some distance up the steep brow of
the hill, are the immense and magnificent remains
of the great Hacienda, built of freestone, and
having the inclosures and pillars for the nume
rous malacates which were once employed, still
standing. Their labours were all devoted to draining the
great Guadalupe shaft, which is still open to the
depth of thirty fathoms, and has now no timber
remaining. San Diego has been a very fine shaft.
Zapopa is filled up ; but that of San Vicente is good
at the mouth, and open to some depth.
The Cocina shaft, where it is intended to place
a water-wheel, has been cleared to eight fathoms,
and is situated on the low ground between the Ha
cienda del Barranco and the town of Bolanos,
which lies to the northward.
I did not visit Laureles, which lies south of the
Barranco mine, and has been worked to the depth
of forty varas. It has the shaft of Renovales, which
is now so choked up that little or no communica-

312 PROJECTED LEET OR CANAL.
tion can be had with the former workings. The
river, which runs hence to the southward and joins
the Rio Grande or San Cristobal, was fordable at
the time of my visit, rushing over a somewhat
rugged and stony bed ; but its present appearance
will be materially altered when its waters are
turned to the great object to which all the exten
sive works are now so rapidly advancing. It is
the plan of the Company to bring the stream by a
capacious Tarjea or leet* to a large water-wheel
which will be erected at the shaft of Cocina, whence
flat rods will be carried up a small hill, and ap
plied to the purpose of pumping the water from
the celebrated mine of Barranco by the Guada
lupe shaft. To accomplish this important object,
6740 varas of ground of various descriptions was to
be opened. In some instances, drivage through
very hard rock has been effected ; and in others,
either through freestone or in open cuttings. At
the time of my visit, half of this great work had
been accomplished ; and in twelve months, if suffi-
* Canal.

ESTABLISHMENT AT THE HACIENDA OF TEPEC. 313
cient outlay be afforded, the whole leet may be
completed to its intended termination. The eco
nomy now so necessarily adopted, in consequence
of the recent distresses in England, has materially
checked the progress of the operations at Bolanos,
where a boldness of outlay is of all places the most
to be recommended.
At the period of my visit, much anxiety was
felt as to the building up and securing the soft
open cuttings of the leet, no clay proper for bricks
having been discovered ; but very shortly subse
quent to my departure this very necessary mate
rial was found, and abundance of very good bricks
have been made. The walls can now speedily be
carried up, while the underground drivage is at
the same time advancing.
The ores, which in small and rather unproduc
tive quantities had been taken from the various
workings, were deposited- in a large walled yard
attached to the Hacienda of Tepee. Shops and
stores for the mechanics, with substantial resi
dences and offices for the mining captains, were

SI 4 EXPENSES OF DRAINING THE WATER
nearly completed, on a central eminence ; and the
whole establishment had already assumed an ap
pearance creditable to English skill and activity.
The chief attention atid labour of the agents of
the Company continue to be directed to the grand
and important task of bringing on the leet: the
whole expense of which will certainly fall short of
two years' expenditure in the former unsuccess
ful attempts to drain the great Barranco mine
by malacates, — an operation which was perse
vered in with such ardour, as to give the strong
est proof of the riches which are known to exist in
the mine.
The following is a translation of a very curious
list of the expenses incurred by the last adven
turers *, and will show the great importance of the
Barranco mine.
* From an old paper addressed to the mine-holders in
1795, submitting to them at the same time a plan of economy
which was not then followed. The document is valuable, as
showing the exact amount of the drainage alone, without the
salaries of superior officers, or expenses incidental to the mines
themselves.

OF THE BARRANCO MINE. 315
" Expenses of the Desague (drainage), on the me
thod which has hitherto been observed.
" To maintain the mine that the water does not rise
to above two Canones (levels) above the Planes
(bottoms) of the Barranco, forty-four Malacates
(horse whims) have been considered requisite ;
for which the following expenses were annually
required :
" For this purpose, 2,200 mules, fifty to
each malacate, have been necessary.
For their subsistence one year with an
other, with alterations and diminutions
in the prices of maize and forage at two
reals per diem for each animal, the an- Dollars.
nual expense is  200,750
" 1 76 Drivers by day and night, at one
dollar each  64,240
" 88 Assistants by ditto, at five reals each 20,075
"10 Watchmen in the five ' tiros de desa
gue' (shafts at which the water is drawn),
at eight dollars a week each . . . 4,160

316 EXPENSES OF DRAINING THE WATER, &C.
" 88 Boteros (fillers of the water-bags),
v & " Dollars.
night and day, at one dollar each . 32,120
" 6 Sefieros (those who make signals to
hoist lower, &c), at one dollar each 2,190
"16 Desaguaderos ( who receive and empty
the water-skins), on a weekly salary
amounting to  8,320
" It is ascertained that each Calabrote
(whim rope) lasts one month, one with
another; these are each composed of
forty-five Sogas (small lines), which cost
eight reales and a half the dozen. The
total cost is  25,202
" To repair the whim ropes, &c, mend and
make reins for mules, and for casual
ties which occur to each malacate, fifty
dozen Sogas are required weekly in the
five Tiros (shafts)  2,762
" For water-bags (Botas), and mending
those which break, 1 20 Vaquetas (cow
hides) are required per mensem ,• these,

TOWN OF BOLAJVOS. 317

one with the other, cost four dollars. In Dollars.
a year  5,760
" Totheabove are to be added the expenses
of houses, machinery, soap to ease the
friction of the working pieces, traces,
whips, water-skins, &c, malacates, re
pair of sheds over them, mules which
die, salary of the mule-keepers, Ocote
(candle-wood) to light the works, with
many smaller expenses which cannot be
enumerated ; for this, fourteen dollars is
allowed for each malacate weekly. Ma
king a total annual amount of . . 32,032
Total expense of drainage (Desague) . 397,612"
The town of Bolanos, which according to Cap
tain Vetch is at an elevation of 3101 feet above
the sea, now contains about a thousand souls,
having nearly doubled its population since the
Habilitacion of the mines by the English ; but in
its days of greatness and splendour the population
is said to have exceeded thirty-five thousand. In
stead of being a cluster of miserable mud huts, as

318 ANIMALS NEAR BOLANOS.
people have imagined in England, it has on the
contrary been a beautiful little town ; and, were
it not for the extreme sultriness of the weather,
would be a most delightful residence. Agues and
fevers are very prevalent, even amongst the na
tives ; and their consequences are long felt by in
valids, who recover their strength but slowly.
Amidst the hot airless days of the dry season,
there is however a delicious relief constantly at
hand, in the then clear river; in which indeed
throughout the year the people of both sexes
bathe night and day, with very few scruples as to
publicity. The water was turbid at the period of
my visit, the rainy season having recently con
cluded ; but sweet and good, producing fish in to
lerable plenty, although in no great variety. I
only heard of the Bagre, Trout, Boquinete, the
last of which is said to be bony and insipid ; the
Sardina, a small fish ; the Mojarra, a flat species ;
minnows, and a large sort of crayfish.
Alligators have also occasionally made their ap
pearance even at this remote place; and one at
no very distant period was caught alive, measur-

VEGETABLES AND FRUITS. 319
ing four varas (about eleven feet), near the Ha
cienda of Tepee.
The woods on the borders of the river are said,
although I confess to having seen no proofs of it,
to be the resort of wild turkeys, deer, hares, rab
bits, and other varieties of game : but I know that
the common green parrots, with parroquets, and
a very large variety somewhat resembling the In
dian maccaw, and named Guacamalla or Papa-
gallo, are also abundant at no great distance.
Snakes, scorpions, and other venomous crea
tures abound in the houses as well as the woods ;
and the variety of iguanas and lizards amongst
the rocks and thickets is very remarkable.
The articles of subsistence are somewhat dearer
here than on the Table Land, evidently in conse
quence of the difficulties of transport. Vegetables
however are sufficiently plentiful, but only of the
most common species, although better kinds and
greater varieties would undoubtedly thrive well.
Fruits, which are also cheap and tolerably good,
are grown in various parts of the neighbour-

320 VEGETABLES AND FRUITS.
ing Barranca. These chiefly consist of pines,
peaches, apricots, apples, pears, aguacates, plan
tains, bananas, guayavas, grapes, quinces, musk and
water melons. The delicious Chirimoya, two spe
cies of the Garambuyo plum, one yellow the other
red; Ciruelo, or the service; Garlamo, a black
wild berry ; and the sugar-cane, which being eaten
raw in great quantities may also be called a fruit.
To ail these, however, must be added the luscious
" Pitaya," the fruit of a tall tree of the Tuna fa
mily *, which is peculiarly fine at Bolaiios. The
vegetables are ; pumpkins of various kinds, onions,
beans, pease, garvanzas, Lenteja, which resem
bles the European lentil, Frijoles (long French
beans of various colours), cabbage, chile of several
varieties, ochra, camote, chayote, and probably
some inferior wild vegetables, of which I did not
hear the name. Maize is cultivated in small quanti
ties, and the maguey is seen here and there ; but not
so abundantly as the Mescal, which is consumed
in the fabric of a fiery spirit called Vino Mescal.
* A species of Cactus, called also Organo from its figure.

NATIVE INDIANS. 321
Bolanos appears to have been the original In
dian name of the Barranca, and portions of seve
ral tribes still live in its immediate vicinity ; but of
late years the distinction of nations has given way
to a more general admixture of tribes, and it is no
longer possible to distinguish the Indios Mensos*
of this part of the country by their former national
divisions. The Guicholes are in fact the only
neighbouring people who still live entirely distinct
from those around themr cherishing their own lan
guage, and studiously resisting all endeavours to
draw them over to the customs of their con
querors. These and other Indians make the shores of the
Pacific about six days' journey from Bolanos, at
their travelling rate of seven or eight leagues per
day ; but the route is difficult and mountainous,
and never pursued by any but themselves : the

* " Tame Indians," so called in contradistinction to the
Indios Bravos or " Wild Indians" who have not embraced
the Christian religion, and are generally at enmity with the
whites. VOL. I. Y

322 THE GUICHOLES.
road to San Bias by way of Guadalaxara, being
preferred by Europeans or Creoles.
The Guicholes are settled in the village of San
Sebastian, which lies eighteen leagues to the west
ward of Bolanos, and two days and a half from
the spot whence the salt is procured, which is call
ed Quaristemba. They live in small scattered com
munities, but have also two villages, one named
Santa Catalina, twelve leagues beyond San Sebas
tian, and the other called San Andres Coasmatl.
The whole of the country however, between Bola
nos and the Pacific, is very little known.
Near a village named San Martin, situated a
long day's journey in the mountains to the south
ward, there is said to be a cave containing several
figures or idols in stone ; and had I been master of
my time, I should most assuredly have visited a
place which is still spoken of with much interest by
the natives. All the antiquities I was enabled to
procure at Bolanos, by offering rewards, were three
very good stone wedges or axes of basalt ; and on
its being known that I would purchase curiosities,

THE GUICHOLES. 323
a man came to inform me that at a long day's jour
ney could be found Huesos de los Geutiles, or Bones
of the Gentiles, of which he promised to bring me
some if provided with mules, since their size was
very great : he must however have been absent
three days on this errand, and as my stay was li
mited, I could not give him the commission, al
though anxious to obtain what I had reason to be
lieve were the bones of elephants or mastodons.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Printed by Richard Taylor, Red Lion Court, Fleet Street.

Lately Published by J. Dickenson, 115 New
Bond Street.
THE
SKETCH BOOK
OF
CAPT. G. F. LYON,
DURING
EIGHT MONTHS RESIDENCE
IN THE
REPUBLIC OF MEXICO,
Parts I. and II.
CONTAINING BACH
FIVE LITHOGRAPHIC DRAWINGS
BY
ft. J. LANE AND OTHER ARTISTS.

JOURNAL

OF

A RESIDENCE AND TOUR
IN THE
REPUBLIC OF MEXICO
IN THE YEAR 1826.
WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE
MINES OF THAT COUNTRY.

By Capt. G. F. LYON, R.N. F.R.S.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1828.

PRINTED BY RICHARD TAYLOR,
RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET.

CONTENTS. VOL. II.

CHAPTER VII.
Route from Bolanos to Guadalaxara — Cuesta Pericos —
Plain of Porierillos — Hacienda of Estanzuela — Gang
of Robbers — Real del Mesquital — San Cristobal — Rio
Grande— Pass of Escalon — Crosses — Guadalaxara —
Theatre — Hospital — Campo Santo — San Gonzalo de
Amarante — Superstition of the Guajolote or Turkey
Dance — Public Buildings — Unsettled state of this part
of the country  Page 1
CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Guadalaxara— Village of Tonala— Lake
of Chapala — Long Contest between the Indians and
Spaniards — Isle of Mescal — La Barca — Springs of
Boiling Water — Zamosa — Cipimeo — Flocks of Orioles
— Valladolid — Ozumatlan-mines — Tlalpubaxua-mines
— El Oro Mine— ToIuca-'-Lenna to Mexico ... 42
CHAPTER IX.
Entrance to Mexico — Beggars — Theatre— Paseo de las
Vigas — Environs — Palace of Chapultepec, the site of
Montezuma's Palace — Nuestra Seiiora de los Reme-

iv CONTENTS.
dios — Universidad —Botanic Garden — Senate — The
Portales— Plaza — Markets  Page 107
CHAPTER X.
Leave Mexico — Nuestra Seiiora de Guadalupe — her Le
gend — Lake of Tescuco — Chiconautla — Pachuca —
Real del Monte — Cerro de los Pelados — Cerro de las
Navajas — Ancient Arrowheads of Obsidian — Works at
the Mines — Hacienda of Regla — Cascade of Regla . 134
CHAwER XI.
Departure from Real del Monte — Zingalucan — Lake of
Tecocomulco— Appan — Volcano of Malinchi — Buena
Vista — Huamantla — Volcano of Orizaba — Guatepec —
Barranca and Mines of Somalhuacan — Las Vigas —
Xalapa — Plan del Rio — Puente delRey — Paso deOve-
jas — Manantial — Vera Cruz — San Juan de Ulua —
Embark for England  158
CHAPTER XII.
General Account of the Inhabitants— Creoles — Ranche
ros or Vaqueros (Herdsmen) — Arrieros or Muleteers
— Indians— State of Law — Laws relating to the Mines
— Usual Food of the Labouring Classes — Character of
the People of the Country— Dwellings — Manufactures
— Amusements — Agriculture  231
APPENDIX.
Notes on the Bar of Tampico, and the River Panuco . 257
Notes on the Process of Amalgamation at the Hacienda
of La Sauceda, Veta Grande, Zacatecas  275
Glossary  :  296

RESIDENCE AND TOUR

MEXICO.

CHAPTER VII.

Route from Bolanos to Guadalaxara — Cuesta Pericos — Plain
of Potierillos— Hacienda of Estanzuela — Gang of Rob
bers — Real del Mesquital — San Cristobal — Rio Grande —
Pass of Escalon — Crosses — Guadalaxara — Theatre — Hos
pital — Campo Santo — San Gonzalo de Amarante — Super
stition of the Guajolote or Turkey Dance — Public Build
ings — Unsettled state of this part of the country.
t
I left Bolanos on the afternoon of the 31st of
August, accompanied by Messrs. Auld and Price ;
and riding south along the base of the mountains
through a rugged but beautiful country, we pass
ed, after rising a wooded hill to avoid the river,
the pretty little village of Cheinaltatan, which,
VOL. II. B

Z THE CUESTA PERICOS.
with its plantations of sugar-cane, is situated at
the foot of a picturesque cliff by the eastern bank
of the river. Hence, to the music of a heavy thun
der-storm, we rode through close thickets and bad
paths, until at a shady little brook we found some
fishermen cooling their fish, which they were con
veying to Bolanos, for sale. We purchased some
very nice trout and catfish, and again went on
until five leagues from Bolanos, and arrived at
sunset at three small Rancho huts of Guatima,
standing in an open space amongst the thickets
above a rapid mountain-stream, whence trout and
other fish are procured.
September 1. — My friends having left me at
7 a. m., we rode forward over very uneven
paths, through roads bounded by impenetrable
thickets, until we arrived at the fatiguing and steep
ascent of the " Cuesta Pericos," to a level of which
we ascended after four hours of distressing labour
to the cattle. There being abundance of fine grass
amongst the tall firs and oak-trees, we turned our
jaded animals loose to feed for a couple of hours.

PLAIN OF POTIERILLOS. 3
The whole of this Cuesta is thickly wooded by the
broad-leaved oak for the lower half, and towards
the summit by fine pines and the Encino, on
whose branches I remarked abundance of para
sitic plants, particularly two kinds which closely
resembled our English misletoe. In the course
of my day's ride I observed above thirty trees of
tall firs and oaks lying split and shivered to the
ground by lightning. Woodpeckers of many
beautiful varieties here abounded, particularly the
species with a scarlet crest, and a very large kind
nearly the size of a Bantam fowl.
Again ascending for three hours, we reached a
small space of table-land on the top of the moun
tain well covered with maize fields, and stopped
at one of the very small wretched huts with which
the plain called Potierillos was dotted at distant
intervals. A heavy thunder-storm prevented our
sleeping with the baggage under the broad-leaved
oaks; we were therefore obliged to beg shelter
against the coming torrents within the hut, which
had no side walls and merely a roof, beneath the
b 2

4< PLAIN OF POTIERILLOS.
centre of which there was barely room to stand
upright. Some management too was necessary to
clear away a space for me to lie down on my Armas
de Agua *, without the risk of being burnt by the
fire which occupied the centre. While this matter
was arranging I heard a loud outcry, and two
little half-naked boys in an instant killed a consi
derable sized rattle-snake, which had been turned
out of its bed to make room for me. The rain
came down in torrents all night; but although
stowed as close as figs, we were grateful for the
shelter of the hut. Besides the fire and cooking
apparatus, occupying the best half, were a man,
his wife, five variously sized children, and five of
my own party. Our hosts were very good-na
tured, excessively dirty, and miserably poor In-
* Or more properly, Armas de Pelo. These are two tanned
goat-skins with the hair on, which are fastened to the pummel
of the saddle, one on each side, and tied by a string round
the waist to protect the legs from the rain. When not used,
they are rolled up and confined with a leather thong ; but are
always attached to their place, and pendent from the saddle,
ready for immediate use.

HACIENDA OF ESTANZUELA. 5
dians : but as I was the first European they had
ever spoken with, they questioned me abundantly,
and in some instances with great natural good sense.
September 2. — After a night of heavy rain, we set
out in a fine clear morning down a wild rugged
descent, and then occasionally over rich verdant
plains; but more generally amongst bold pictu
resque mountains thickly clothed with wood. Here
in a close defile we met three poor fellows, who
informed us of their having been stopped and
robbed two days before, by thirteen men com
pletely armed. These rogues had plundered them
of three mules with valuable cargoes ; three horses
with their furniture ; five ounces of gold, and about
one hundred dollars ; completing the business by
stripping them naked and leaving them bound
hand and foot on the road all night, where next
morning they were found and liberated by some
travellers. At sunset we reached the Hacienda
of Estanzuela, situated in a valley highly culti
vated with maize ; and had scarcely dismounted,
when a party of seventeen armed merchants ar-

b GANG OF ROBBERS.
rived with valuable cargoes from Guadalaxara.
On the preceding day these people had met the
robbers, fifteen in number, well mounted and com
pletely armed, with a few on foot, and some who
appeared to walk in ambush at a little distance.
The parties, equally afraid of each other, met in
so narrow a path that they actually touched ; and
when all had passed, the captain of the band fired
a pistol at one of the merchants, who had recog
nized and called him by name. All the robbers
then starting at full gallop were feebly pursued,
yet the travellers cut off six loose horses. I was
now informed that almost every man, and the
captain in particular, of this formidable gang was
known to the people of Guadalaxara. They al
ways fearlessly spent their money which was
gained on the road, in the city; and then as openly
assembled their forces and sallied out to plunder
again. The merchants of the place had fre
quently but vainly called on the Government to
put down these daring people; yet this blessed
country, with " God and Liberty" for its motto,

ROBBERS. 7
continued to countenance, by the fear or indiffe
rence of its authorities, the most glaring and con
stant enormities.
September 3. — As only three of my little party
were armed, I hired five men, who had three very
peaceable-looking muskets, two swords, and a
spear, to accompany me ; and early on the morning
of the 3rd set out with my troop for San Cristobal.
In two hours we passed the spot on the top of the
Cuesta del Malacate where the three men had been
pillaged, and where the grass was eaten quite short
by the horses of the robbers. Soon after descend
ing this very steep mountain-pass we met a boy, from
whom we learnt that three armed men on horse
back and two on foot had passed a short time be
fore us ; and I afterwards heard that they carried
forward an account of my force, with the opinion
that my cargo was of great value ; probably from
their having mistaken three heavy boxes of mine-
ralogical specimens for cases of dollars. These
men were afterwards seen to ford the river, and
were traced to the mountain at which the robbers

8 REAL DEL MESQUITAL.
were assembled. At noon we reached a pass
called La Sigueta, merely remarkable for having
a few huts, and some magueys on the ridge.
Up a deep valley to the N. E. of this place is the
Real del Mesquital, at which a small gold mine is
worked by a few poor people, who having no means
of procuring effective implements} merely contrive
to collect enough for their support.
At three, after winding along the ledges of the
precipitous mountains which hem in the Rio San
Cristobal, we descended through a delightful na
tural shrubbery to a village of the same name on
its northern bank. I put up under the portal of
the Alcalde's shop, where at half past three the
thermometer stood at 89°, — a heat fully equal to
that of Bolanos, which this place resembles in some
slight respects, although far inferior to it in beauty.
I was surrounded all the afternoon by a crowd of
staring people, to which I was by this time fully
accustomed; and as I sadly wished to wash my
self and put on a clean shirt, I was at length ob
liged to perform these operations in public, even

SAN CRISTOBAL. 9
in the presence of two ladies of the Alcalde's fa
mily. — Fresh news of the robbers arrived in the
evening, stating that they had plundered a large
requa of mules. The Alcalde, who wished to go
to Guadalaxara, now proposed to accompany me,
as soon as he could on the morrow raise a force
equal to mine, in order that if possible we might
catch some of the rogues, to whom he had a mortal
dislike. This was mingled with no small portion of
dread, in consequence of their having lately rob
bed, stripped and bound him, together with a
party with whom he travelled. Notice was also
brought that a saddled horse, which had been
standing all the past-night and morning in the
wood on the opposite side of the river, had been
ridden off; and report said, that the robbers were
in Escalon (a mountain-pass not far distant) await
ing a very rich cargo (no other than my poor shirts,
stockings, and specimens !). My day was spent, as
the preceding evening, in being stared at and ques
tioned ; and I was treated with a specimen of ma
gisterial equity by the Alcalde, who had been

10 SITUATION OF SAN CRISTOBAL.
loudly boasting to me, even in the face of all these
robbing adventures, of the excellence and justice
of the laws of Xalisco. — A man came up to us
bathed in blood, which streamed from a cut in his
head four inches in length inflicted with a hatchet :
yet the brute who committed this outrage was
only sentenced to four days' imprisonment ! To
this succeeded another act of equally rigid justice.
We had observed a strong light on the beach, and
soon learnt from a poor ferryman that a man had
burnt his little watch-house. The culprit, a drunken
quarrelsome fellow, but in tolerable circumstances,
was merely desired to rebuild the hut and make
some arrangement with the boatman; — and with
this ended our Sunday evening amusements.
September 4. — The village of San Cristobal con
tains in itself about 300 souls, and the people within
the "Cure" in the surrounding Ranchos amount to
between 2000 and 3000 mal contados ,¦ a conve
nient term, signifying "something more or less." It
is situated between three rivers, none of which,
however, were of any considerable depth or magni-

RIO GRANDE. 1 1
tude at this period, or indeed at any other, owing
to the ruggedness of their beds and the frequency of
falls and rocky shoals. Of these, the Rio Guichipila
passes from theN.E.; and another, El Colchon, also
enters the Rio Grande from the N. N.W. The Rio
Grande, Santiago, and San Cristobal, (by all which
appellations the one great river is known here,)
passes the village, running to the west, through a
Barranca, closely hemmed in by precipitous moun
tains, clothed to their summits with mimosas and
stunted oaks. This Barranca is of considerable
extent, very close and sultry, but at the same time
perfectly healthy. On all the level spaces, maize
is abundantly cultivated ; higher up to the east
ward, where the valley opens a little, the sugar-cane
is the chief produce. The river runs quickly
over a stony bed, is turbid and full of rapids and
bars ; and all navigation, except for small canoes
between these frequent impediments, is entirely
impossible. I believe that the greater part of the
river's course hence to the Pacific is in this man
ner obstructed. The Rio Bolanos enters the Rio

12 RIO GRANDE.
Grande a few leagues to the westward of the pass.
The waters at this time were so low, that animals
passed at a ford immediately above a ridge of
stones, crossing from bank to bank : but it not un-
frequently happens, that for several weeks in the
rainy season they must pass by swimming ; and
the towns-people, who excel in this exercise, are
paid highly for guiding them over. A large canoe
takes travellers across the ferry for a very trifling
sum. From what I have said of the Rio Grande, its
inutility for commercial purposes must be appa
rent ; more particularly when it is known, that in
stead of passing close to the city of Guadalaxara,
as appears by the maps, it does not approach that
place within six leagues : and at that distance its
current, which had been even and uninterrupted
from leaving the lake Chapala, changes to the
broken obstructed stream in the Barranca of San
Cristobal. To the eastward indeed, where it
passes through several extensive and rich Hacien
das, the river is generally deep and free from ini-

ROAD TO THE PASS OF ESCALON. 13
pediments ; yet, with the exception of the canoes
at the ferries, I know of little navigation upon
it. The same fish are procured as at Bolanos ; and
alligators are occasionally seen, but never ap
proaching the passes.
At 5 p. m. our warlike party crossed the river ;
and the road lay along the depths of the Barranca
close by the banks to the S. E. for about six miles,
after which it rose gradually towards the foot of
the Pass of Escalon. As we pushed through the
close thickets by the river side, I several times
perceived a very strong smell of bugs, proceed
ing, as the people informed me, from those called
" compostela," which are sometimes found in large
clusters beneath the leaves, where however I
searched in vain for them. When we had ridden
three or four leagues, night set in, and a portion
of us slept under a shed, containing a rude weav
ing-machine for Serapes. As for the Alcalde, he
had filed off with half our party to some huts in
the wood, where he expected better accommoda
tions. Those who remained kept me awake half

14 PASS OF ESCALON.
the night by their questions about our religion,
opinions of the pope, confessions, purgatory, mar
riage of priests, and image-worship. Many peo
ple in the state of Xalisco waver greatly on these
points, in consequence of the constant publication
and distribution, from Guadalaxara, of many well
written papers, opening the eyes of the natives to
the idolatry in which they have been reared.
September 5. — At daylight I toiled up the pre
cipitous pass of Escalon, leading my party, with my
cocked gun and pistols in my belt, expecting
every instant an attack from men in ambush. We
however reached the summit very quietly ; of my
five hired men, two only daring to keep in advance
with me. As for the others, they persisted in re
maining in the rear, "looking for the Alcalde,"
who had not appeared. On issuing from the
thicket, we brushed past a little cross recently
erected over one of the men last murdered, and
then entered on a tolerably level plain, intersected
at intervals by abrupt little woody dells, in which
we kept on the alert; the Alcalde not joining us

PASS OF ESCALON. 15
until we neared Milpillas, when our force amounted
to seventeen men variously armed. Hence from a
rising ground I observed on the plain eleven men
on horseback ; and as the robbers had quartered
here for two days, it was natural to suppose these
were the identical gang. Amongst my companions,
who had just been threatening to eat the rogues
alive, a dead silence now took place, and only five
could be found to join me in cantering forward to
the strangers; who, dismounting, formed them
selves in a line and prepared to receive us ; but
we soon discovered them to be travellers like our
selves, and equally determined to resist the ban
ditti. When the Alcalde with his immense pistols
and his companions joined us, they blamed me
much for having left them, declaring that had they
known we intended to be the aggressors, they
would have been the first to cut the rogues to
pieces. We met, in fact, with no impediment by
the way ; but this was owing more to good fortune
than to our own valour. At about two leagues

16 CROSSES.
beyond Milpillas we passed a little rocky dell, to
which the descent is marked by five newly erected
crosses, showing the site on which that number of
Arrieros had recently been murdered while de
fending the cargoes in their charge. On a mound
at a short distance was placed a small rude cross,
to mark the burial-place of some other victim,
with an inscription in charcoal humbly requesting
a prayer for the good of his soul.

In all, we passed eleven of these memorials.
It was but too evident, however, that I had much
more to dread from some of my travelling com
panions, than from the acknowledged villains.
I had quarrelled with the former on account of

TREACHERY OF THE ESCORT. 17
their late shameful desertion of me, and they
soon began to show their desire of revenge. As
I rode a little before them, one of the principal
men of the party actually drew a pistol on my ser
vant, while several of the others cocked their guns
in readiness to follow his fire. On this, the ser
vant galloped up to me in great trepidation, en
treating (in which request he was joined by the
muleteers) that I would ride forward, my gallant
Mexicans having very openly declared to him that
they would shoot me also. Being already fully
aware of my danger, I rejected this advice ; and
instead of attempting to escape, which would
have been perfectly useless, I turned back upon
these traitors, and with my arms in readiness
dared any one to fire upon me. This conduct on
my part was quite unexpected ; — not an arm was
lifted, some swords were sheathed, and an apology
was made to me. Matters were thus, apparently,
made up between us ; but I had still ample reason
to expect that some attack would be made on me
when we should arrive at Guadalaxara. Whilst
vol. n. c

1 8 GUADALAXARA.
proceeding in this doubtful temper, it so happened
that I brought down a vulture on the wing, which
fell dead at some distance before the party, — an
event which caused a very evident sensation, and
raised my gun high in the estimation, and perhaps
the dread, of my fellow travellers.
After riding over a tolerably level and occa
sionally cultivated plain, — at 4 p. m. we entered
Guadalaxara *, the capital of the State of Xalisco
and the second city in the Mexican Republic. In
the suburbs I was stopped at the Guarita, an out
post of the custom-house, where, after examining
all my trunks to search for money, possession was
taken of five hundred dollars, in consequence of
my not bringing a pass from the neighbouring
state, which rendered them contraband, — an ex
traordinary law, peculiar to this country; and my
little property would have been lost to me for ever,
but for the kind assistance of my friend Don Ma
nuel Luna. I put up at the Meson San Jose,
* Eighteen leagues to the southward of San Cristobal.
Temp. 3 p. m. 78°.

THEATRE AT GUADALAXARA. 19
which was crowded with all sorts of people, who
have the privilege of walking into every room,
and tormenting strangers to purchase whatever
they carry for sale. It was a most filthy place;
and I was rejoiced when Don Manuel Luna, to
whom I brought letters, and whose character and
hospitality are proverbial, pressed me to remove
to the house of his partner Don Catalino Gomez.
There I had excellent rooms, and was perfectly
my own master.
In the evening I accompanied my hosts with
their wives to the theatre, with which I was very
much pleased. It was neatly fitted up and orna
mented, and the boxes were well filled by ladies,
dressed rather in the extreme of French and En
glish fashions; so that had it not been for the
universal smoking, and the silence and good
behaviour of the lower class of the audience, I
might have almost fancied myself in England. It
was indeed a singular thing to observe fair delicate
handsome girls, attired in the richest ball-dresses,
and many with plumes of ostrich feathers, smoking
c 2

20 THEATRE AT GUADALAXARA.
cigars, which they held in their gloveless hands;
and to see displayed, when they smiled through
their clouds on some favoured swain, a row of
teeth which would almost vie with ebony in co
lour. For my part, not smoking in public, I de
voted all my attention to the ladies in our box,
whose cigars it was my duty to light at lamps in
front of us. I admired the play, which was a trans
lation from our Roxalana ; and when it was over,
the audience called somewhat loudly for a dance by
a favourite Spanish actress. On this a person came
forward and announced that " Madama Olivarez
presented herself to say, that not having brought
her breeches or dancing-shoes, she hoped to be
excused." "Let her take mine"— "Let her go
for them" was vociferated from the pit and gallery.
The man again came forward to announce that
" unable to resist the wishes of so respectable an
assembly, Madama Olivarez had sent for her
breeches." A very merry farce succeeded the co
medy ; but in both pieces the prompter, who occu
pied a box in front of the stage, as is the custom

DANCE AT THE THEATRE. 21
in all foreign theatres, spoke much louder than the
performers, some of whom did not even know a
word of their parts. To this succeeded the Bo
lero by Madama Olivarez, who really danced with
much grace and spirit, in company with a very to
lerable male performer. It is not the custom here
for women to enter the pit, which is neatly fitted
with backs to the benches, and the seats are all
numbered. On returning from the play, we learnt
that a party of robbers at nine in the evening,
while the streets were full of people, had attacked
the shop of a merchant, in order to rob it ; and
that a battle had taken place with knives and fire
arms, in which the assailants were beaten off.
September 6. 8 a. m. 70°, 2 p. m. 73°. — My first
expedition on this morning was to the booths of
the leather-cutters, or embossers, whose beautiful
works are so deservedly celebrated ; and I made
some purchases, as specimens for England, for
which by the kind interference of Don Manuel I
never paid more than half the price at first de
manded. In the afternoon I drove with my friend,

22 THE HOSPITAL.
in one of the hackney vehicles (which are quite as
good as our London ones, and drawn by two mules
with a postillion,) to the "Belen," or public hos
pital; an immense edifice in the suburbs, built
with all the solidity of Spanish architecture. Its
wards and corridors were high, spacious, and well
ventilated, and for a Mexican establishment ama
zingly clean. There were at this time only 160
patients in the hospital ; and of these, above one
third, women as well as men, were suffering from
stabs, or wounds with stones. I learnt from the
administrador, who also very obligingly showed
me his books of entries, that quite as many females
as men were brought in, dangerously wounded in
frays amongst themselves. The sexes are of course
in separate wards; and each patient has a bed-
place, or stone bench, divided by walls from his
neighbours. There is likewise an entire ward with
a heavy grated door, which is set apart for wound
ed men brought in as prisoners from the nightly
broils; and a distinct portion of the hospital is
devoted to the lazaros, or lepers, a most wretched

CAMPO SANTO. 23
set of beings, who drag on a life of constant suf
fering and misery without hope of relief. There
were seven or eight of these poor people lying on
their beds, from whence they were unable to move,
yet very urgent for cigars, which we gave them.
In the extensive Campo Santo or burying-ground
of the hospital, five bodies were lying for interment.
Of these, three were murdered men, all stabbed
in the head or neck ; and I was informed that as
many as fifteen victims have sometimes been
brought for burial in one morning: yet no in
quiry is ever made for the assassins, whose punish
ment if they are caught rarely exceeds a few days'
imprisonment, and hitherto since the expulsion of
the Spaniards has never been that of death. Four
of the bodies which I now saw were to be thrown
into a deep pit, in which all unowned corpses are
tumbled together : the other, which was of an old
woman, was to be buried in a grave, for which her
friends had paid two reals, the sexton's fee. It ap
peared from all I could learn at this visit, that
none of the hosts of pampered priests and friars,

24 CHAPEL OF SAN GONZALO DE AMARANTE.
who are so importunate in collecting money to
purchase masses for the souls of the unconfessed
or those who are in purgatory, ever volunteer to
read the burial service over their bodies when they
die poor and in a hospital.
In a small filthy cell, feebly lighted by a little
grating in the door, lay the only mad person con
fined there, — a poor woman of about forty, whose
keeper acknowledged that she was at all times per
fectly tranquil and quiet ; yet the wretched crea
ture is doomed to drag out the remainder of her
existence in this barricadoed and gloomy dungeon.
She had lately a neighbour in misery, — an unhappy
woman of rank, young, handsome, and, to her mis
fortune, rich. Her intellect being suddenly dis
ordered, her brother (now possessing her pro
perty) confined her in such a place as I have de
scribed ; but death in three years mercifully re
lieved her from her sufferings.
Returning from Belen we stopped for a time at
the Chapel of San Gonzalo de Amarante, better
known by the name of El Baylador (the dancer).

CHAPEL OF SAN GONZALO DE AMARANTE. 25
Here I was so fortunate as to find three old wo
men praying rapidly, and at the same time very
seriously dancing before the image of the saint,
who is celebrated for his miraculous cures of "frios
y calenturas" (colds and agues). These grave and
venerable personages, who were perspiring most
profusely at every pore, had selected for their fi
gure that so well known in the country as the
" Guajolote" or turkey dance, from its resem
blance in dignity and grace to the enamoured
curvettings of those important birds : and ever
and anon these faithful votaries murmured forth
the following invocation, in a mingled tone of sing
ing and moaning :
" San Gonzalo de Amarante,
Que sacas pescado del mar ;
Saca me de este cuidado,
Que ya te vengo baylar.
" Chorus. — (moans) — Ahhiim ! um ! um ! oh !
oh," &c*
* San Gonzalo de Amarante,
Who can wile the fish out of the sea;

26 SAN GONZALO DE AMARANTE.
Which ended, they began pirouetting with renewed
energy. It must be very evident that all this dan
cing, although it draws not down a miracle, must
go far towards curing the devotee, who is proba
bly a rheumatic nervous old woman, unaccustom
ed to exercise, and in consequence stiff and suffer
ing in all her joints. Inspired by faith, the votary
performs that which no other power could induce
her to undertake, and dances unceasingly during
six or eight hours, until every joint recovers its
elasticity. The interposition or rather the indivi
dual power of the saint (for saints in Mexico in
most instances take precedence of the Divinity,) is
most fully established. He receives as an offering
of gratitude, a wax leg, arm, or some other part of
the body in miniature, which is hung with hundreds
of others to an extensive frame-work on one side
of the chapel, while the opposite wall is covered
with small oil-coloured and detached paintings of
Relieve me from these my distresses
Which bring me thus dancing to thee.
Chobus. — Oh ! o  h ! &c.

SAN GONZALO DE AMARANTE. 27
the miracles performed on those who could thus
afford to testify their devotion. In front of the fi
gurantes, a number of other women were kneeling
with sick children, or praying on their own ac
count: — but the whole of this idolatrous farce is now
going out of repute, and I believe owes its slight re
maining credit to a desire of opposing the Govern
ment, which has long endeavoured to put it down.
Of this saint, who was once worshiped in Mexico,
and in fact all over the country, history has told
us but little in his published legend. Where he
was born or reared, no one appears either to know
or care : it is only certain that he resided on the
banks of some river called Tamaga, over which he
built a bridge, and all who were unable to pay
the toll-money were obliged to dance across it.
The first miracle of this righteous man was work
ed in order to prove the force of excommunication;
for having performed this ceremony over a loaf of
bread, it became "negro como un carbon" (as
black as a coal).
The pious liberality of the saint for his neigh-

28 religious edifices.
bour was ample. He was wont to go to the river's
side, and calling the fishes he supplied all the poor
from those which flocked to his hands ; after which
the others were set at liberty. He struck a rock,
and a rivulet of " very savoury wine" gushed forth :
and touching another, there issued from it a stream
of " crystalline water," — which last remains to this
day. There are other wonders to be related of San
Gonzalo; but I shall have said enough of him when
I mention that, by forty days' fasting and flagella
tion he was translated, after a life of unblemished
chastity, from this world into heaven.
Sept. 7. — This day was chiefly devoted to visit
ing churches ; all so much alike, that little is to be
said of them : they were generally very gaudy, and
crowded with idols.
I believe the following is a list of all the reli
gious edifices. The Catedral. Na Sa del Pilar.
La Capilla de Jesus. Mexicalcingo. San Sebas
tian de Analco. San Jose de Analco. Sanctuario
de Na Sa de Guadalupe, and La Capilla Cle-

RELIGIOUS EDIFICES. 29
rigal de Na Sa de la Soledad. — All the monaste
ries have large churches attached to them. These
are : San Francisco, San Augustin, San Juan de
Dios, El Carmen, St0 Domingo, Merced, and
San Felipe ; the latter is a congregation neither
of priests or friars, but partaking of the nature
of both. The nunneries, which have also their
churches, are Moneca, Gratia, Capuchina, Te
resa, and Jesus Maria. — Besides these institutions
are two religious establishments, Sta Clara, and
San Diego, for the education of young women, who
can marry, or leave them at any time. There are
also three colleges for young men : San Juan, Se-
minario, and Clerigal ; — to these must be added, a
Compania Catedra de Doctores of medicine, laws,
and theology; with five schools for boys. Amongst
the public buildings are, the National Hospital for
men and women. A Casa de Moneda or mint,
which is a very noble building* ; a Casa Consis-
torial, and the Palacio Obispada, a fine edifice on
* The machinery is now out of order, and requires a
thorough repair and improvement.

30 PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
the right of the cathedral. The Palacio, or Go
vernment House, is a magnificent building, con
taining, besides the residence of the governor, the
public offices and an immense prison. This edi
fice is situated on the eastern side of a neat square
called the Plaza de Armas. The north is bound
ed by a side of the cathedral (of which the front is
to the west) and the Casa de Congreso. West
and south are " Portales de Comercio," or Piaz
zas, beneath which are good shops and standings.
The square has an extensive portion of its cen
tre neatly paved, and inclosed by low walls with
stone seats ; once shaded by fine trees, which,
having been planted by the Spaniards, were felled
by the Republicans ; and miserable little twigs are
now growing up, planted by the same hands which
hewed down their predecessors. They forgot,
however, in their patriotic zeal, to destroy the pa
lace and other magnificent buildings at the same
time. We could gain admittance to the hall of only
one nunnery, that of Santa Maria de Gracia, at

NUNNERIES. 31
which the elder sisters alone vouchsafed to show
themselves. I was the first Englishman whom
some of these ladies had ever seen. And Don Ma
nuel Luna who accompanied me to visit them, an
swered in the affirmative to their questions as to
my being a Jew, gratuitously informing them also,
that I had, as is believed to be the case with Jews
by many of the country-people, — a tail ! which the
reverend sisters appeared implicitly to credit ; one
of them very shrewdly inquiring whether the tails
of heretics fell off on their conversion to the Ca
tholic faith ?
In the other nunneries the sisters never show
themselves ; and the vow of the Capuchina in par
ticular is so strict, that when once a woman has
taken the veil, she is never seen again even by her
nearest relatives.
The city of Guadalaxara is built with great re
gularity ; the streets running at right angles, well
paved, and having raised pathways on each side.
The houses, with the exception of those in the sub
urbs, are finely built ; but I was most particularly

32 GUADALAXARA.
struck with the Portales de Comercio, erected on
every side of three immense squares of houses, all
built upon precisely the same model, and having
the lower part devoted to shops and stores, while
above are good family residences. The city is
said to contain 80,000 souls ; but I should not ima
gine the population to amount to above 50,000.
Lamps are suspended at the corners of all the
streets, but are only used in the absence of moon
light. A watch patroles the city throughout the
night; but as it is generally composed of Leperos,
they in many instances are more prone to abet
than to interrupt robbers. The town is abundantly
supplied with water from a mountain three leagues
to the N. W., named Cerro del Col, as also from
the stream of Mexicalcingo, which passes the sub
urbs to the southward, and has its waters raised
by machinery. There are seven Plazas in which
are fountains, and all the religious houses are sup
plied in the same manner.
The Paseo is a very extensive and shady drive,
under double rows of fine trees by a shallow stream

THE PASEO. 33
on the eastern side of the town, and on feast-days
it is enlivened by carriages and gay cavaliers on
horseback. The little stream is in some places al
lowed to flow in its natural channel, and is there
frequented by numbers of washerwomen ; but in
the most frequented part, where the streets lead
to the Paseo, it is partially confined within little
locks and channels, where the depth is sufficient to
admit of bathing, — a luxury which the most com
plete publicity cannot check in either sex or age !
At the northern extremity of the Paseo is a large
inclosed space, prettily wooded and thickly set
with shrubs, divided into neat squares and alleys,
called the Alameda * ; but it is now overgrown
with weeds, and so sadly neglected as to be no
longer the favourite lounge of the better classes of
inhabitants, as in the time of the Spaniards.
In my rambles I visited an immense mass of
building, erected by a Spanish bishop as a work
house for the poor. It is now a very dirty ill-kept
* So named from the White Poplar (Alamo) with which
the public walks in Old Spain are usually planted.
VOL. II. D

34 THE PASEO.
barrack for about five hundred soldiers, and thou
sands of houseless wretches who ought to find a
home there, see above three-fourths of the spacious
wards entirely untenanted. Here in the " Quar-
tel" of the artillery I saw a number of cannon,
some of twenty-four pound calibre, and about a
dozen eighteen-pound English carronades, — all
neglected, and filling with rust, although very great
trouble and expense must have attended their trans
port from San Bias, by the only route through the
difficult Barrancas of Mochitiltec.
In the suburbs I frequently entered cottages in
which the people were employed in weaving Se-
rapes (or coarse cloths) on very simple looms, and
always met with great civility from the assembled
workers, generally of one family. One man or
woman sat carding the wool, another spinning, a
third winding on the shuttle, and others weaving
and singing. Some of my excursions were made
in the hackney coaches already spoken of, and
which, to the amount of twenty or thirty, are al
ways to be found standing near the cathedral.

UNSETTLED STATE OF GUADALAXARA. 35
The shops of Guadalaxara are generally rich
and well supplied, but of an uninviting exterior.
The inns or Mesons are filthy in the extremej
and merely afford an unfurnished room to travel
lers, who are obliged to procure food from little
cook-shops, the odour and appearance of which
would turn the stomach of even such as are not
over-nice. One or two tolerable coffee-shops are
to be found ; and ices can be obtained at any time,
although not of a very good quality. The town is
well supplied with fruits- and vegetables, amongst
which last are excellent potatoes, — the first I had
hitherto met with of any description.
The market-place, which is large and dirty, is
crowded by small awnings, and all the articles are
exposed for sale on the ground, which is covered
with squashed vegetable matter and all sorts of
rubbish. Quantities of cooking women occupy
one side of the square, where crowds of Indians
and others are constantly assembled.
Guadalaxara at the period of my visit was in
a state of feverish excitement, which gave reason
d 2

36 UNSETTLED STATE OF GUADALAXARA.
to fear some dangerous change in the public af
fairs. Party-spirit under various forms was car
ried on with extreme bitterness. The Iturbidists,
Centralists, Federalists, and other factions, all in
dulged their respective feelings in numerous anony
mous papers, hawked about in all the Portales and
through the streets ; — insulting pamphlets against
the Governor and his public officers ; others in his
defence; — papers exposing the gross impositions of
the friars, or upholding them in their absurd pre
tensions ; — threats to the few remaining Spaniards
and strangers of all descriptions, with strong abuse
of private individuals, — were constantly to be met
with ; and murders and robberies were frequently
committed, without any dread of punishment be
yond a few days' imprisonment. This is of no con
sequence to the Leperos, or people of the lowest
class, who still sleep on the ground as hereto
fore. They have nothing to do ; and may either
gamble all day, or sit at the prison windows and
chat with their friends in the street, who flock to
the bars in motley groups, and are seldom driven

UNSETTLED STATE OF GUADALAXARA. 37
away by the guard, which is composed of their own
class. It does not appear likely that affairs will long
remain in this unsettled position ; and it was the
opinion of many of my acquaintance, that one
" Grito" (a rising cry) would lead the whole city
either to rebellion against the state, or to the cold
blooded murder of every Spaniard, stranger, and
even native, of property. The European Spaniards
settled in the country, and who individually are
not blameable for the tyranny of their nation to
wards the Mexicans, are certainly to be pitied.
Their lives are still in constant jeopardy, and the
more so if they are rich, — the chance of plunder
being a great inducement to patriotism with a
Mexican, as well as every other mob.
The opinion of these people entertained in En
gland being formed from gazettes, copies of laws,
and proclamations, is sadly erroneous as respects
the political state of the Republic ; as are also our
conceptions of this terrestrial paradise, drawn
from the accounts of travellers or compilers, who

38 DEGRADED STATE OF
write in many instances of places which they have
never visited. As well might a foreigner who
had enjoyed a ramble through Greenwich Park,
write a glowing account of the umbrageous beau
ties of the mining district of Cornwall, as the
mere tourist from Vera Cruz, through the beau
tiful Xalapa and gorgeous Puebla, to Mexico, pre
tend to give an opinion on the northern states.
We are, in fact, all in the dark about many parts
of the Republic of Mexico ; and it is to be lament
ed that some of our men of talent, instead of ram
bling for the twentieth time through the continent
of Europe, do not cross the Atlantic and perform
a tour through all the provinces of New Spain, in
order to publish to their countrymen an account
of the present state of a nation,- — which from its
position and circumstances must fill, at no very
distant period, an important political station.
At present the northern provinces of Mexico are
in a sad state of degradation. This is owing in a
great measure to the cruelty of the Spaniards, in
having denied to them the most common instruc-

THE NORTHERN PROVINCES. 39
tion beyond that which was necessary for continuing
them in the state of barbarous idolatry which served
to rivet their shackles.
Their degradation therefore must be attributed to
their former masters; and Vice being the daughter
of Ignorance, many of their faults may be traced
to the same source ; although it must be confessed
that until the time of the Revolution, crimes which
now pass unnoticed were severely punished. An
enslaved man is certainly more prone by his situa
tion to acquire vices, than he who is free ; and it
is a natural consequence, that the mental degra
dation of the natives of New Spain should be long
felt, and only remedied by time and the blessings
of that education which has hitherto been denied
to them. Ambition is now the ruling passion ; and
all active spirits hope to arrive at those situations
of importance, many of which are filled by people
from the lowest and meanest mechanical vocations.
Half the men who engaged in the late struggles
were more inspired by a prospect of future ag
grandizement, than by a pure patriotic spirit, — a

40 DEGRADED STATE OF
virtue which is rare even in more enlightened
countries. Now that the common enemy is expelled, it is
high time that the general good should be secured ;
that just laws should be instituted and vigorously
supported ; and that those branches of commerce
and industry which were so cruelly prohibited,
should be protected and encouraged.
Guadalaxara *, being in itself a sovereign state,
has modelled its own laws; scarcely one of which
it strictly follows, although vaunting itself not a
little on a penal code and trial by jury. At the
same time it is not negligent in exacting a very
unpopular income and property tax : another, too,
is general throughout the Republic ; and, consider
ing the impoverished state of the nation, is cer
tainly a very extraordinary one; that is, a duty of
two per cent on all money introduced into the
state even from a neighbouring province, although
it may be the produce of, and coined in that part.
There is scarcely a town or village in the northern
* Called also Xalisco or Jalisco.

THE NORTHERN PROVINCES. 41
states, and I may almost say throughout the Re
public, in which are not to be found unfinished
monuments of the Spaniards. Ruins of spacious
half-built churches, hospitals, prisons, public pro
menades and aqueducts, — all strike the eye of the
stranger, who cannot but lament that the infant
Republic has no present means to finish or pre
serve such edifices as may at a future time be of
the utmost national importance. Liberty is all
that is now thought of and talked about, — and very
naturally, after so many years of slavery; but in
the mean while in many states the rich and the
poor are alike unprotected, the injured seek in
vain for redress, and the sincere patriot mourns
over the necessarily tardy advancement of the
glory and embellishment of his country.

42 DEPARTURE FROM GUADALAXARA.

CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Guadalaxara — Village of Tonala — Lake of
Chapala — Long Contest between the Indians and Spaniards
— Isle of Mescal — La Barca — Springs of Boiling Water—
Zamnsa— Cipimeo — Flocks of Orioles — Valladolid— Ozu-
matlan-mines — Tlalpuhaxua-mines — El Oro Mine— Toluca
— Lerma to Mexico.
Sept. 9. — On the 9th, six very fine mules, for which
with their furniture I had paid forty-five dollars
each, arrived from a distance of thirty leagues, from
whence I had sent to procure them; and I pre
pared for my outset on the morrow, having pro
vided myself with such curious specimens of
earthenware, leather, and other peculiar manufac
tures of the place as I could contrive to carry.
Sept. 10. — I left Guadalaxara early on the morn
ing of the 1 Oth, accompanied part of the way by
Don Manuel Luna, whose genuine kindness and
hospitality, with that of his partner Don Catalino
Gomez, I shall never forget. Our road to the

VILLAGE OF TONALA. 43
eastward lay over a level plain studded with
pretty Indian villages, whose situation was chiefly
marked by their surrounding clusters of trees. On
a slightly rising ground to the left, at about four
miles from Guadalaxara, is the village of Tonala,
whose inhabitants (pure Indians) are celebrated
for their manufacture of all kinds of earthenware ;
some of which nearly approach the Etruscan in
lightness and elegance of form. Their toys, masks,
grotesque figures and ornaments, are most de
servedly admired. Our road was crowded by In
dians on their way to market, laden with various
goods piled in large light frames, suspended at
the back by a broad leather band round the breast
or forehead. Their dark woollen dresses, long
raven hair, and quiet salutations, rendered them
particularly picturesque objects as they trotted
(their usual travelling pace) along the broad road
way, which towards the S. E. by E. is bounded by
the mountains of Chapala. On either side the
plains were cultivated in maize and corn, or left
in the wildness of nature as pasturage for nume-

44 VILLAGE OF TONALA.
rous herds of fine cattle and brood mares, while
large flocks of sheep are frequently to be seen in
the brushwood. At two leagues to our left flowed
the Rio Grande from the eastward, at the foot of a
fine range of hills ; and we here and there crossed
small tributary streamlets, in which I observed a
small species of crane, egrets, and two varieties of
ducks. We arrived at length, after a ride of
twelve leagues, on the highly cultivated lands of the
Hacienda of Atequiza, at the Casa Grande, where a
letter of introduction procured me a very kind re
ception from Don Pedro de Olasagarra, and his son
Don Manuel, who had been educated in England.
These gentlemen showed me their garden, — rich in
the fruits of their country ; dairy, cheese-rooms, and
large granaries, and I passed a most agreeable
evening in their society. The Hacienda, which has
the advantage of being traversed by the Rio Grande,
is now one of the richest in the immediate neigh
bourhood of Guadalaxara, although it had suffered
severely by fire and pillage in the war with the In
dians of Chapala.

CAMPO DE TLACHICHILCO. 45
Sept. 1 1. — Don Pedro having very obligingly fur
nished me with a guide, I set out early for the Lake
of Chapala, sending my people and cargoes by a
shorter route to Poncitlan, which is about six leagues
E. S. E. of the Hacienda. Heavy rain which had
fallen during the night had quite flooded the country,
and made our road very unpleasant, till on passing
a low mountain we saw beneath us the beautiful Lake
with its great expanse of water, and two small but
celebrated islands. Descending the partially culti
vated side of the mountain, we arrived at the Campo
de Tlachichilco, erected by the Spaniards, and si
tuated on the northern bank at about three leagues
S. E. of the Hacienda of Atequiza. It is perhaps
but little known out of Mexico, that the Lake Cha
pala was the scene of one of the longest and blood
iest revolutionary struggles between a strong Spa
nish force stationed at the " Campo," and the In
dians on the small isle of Mescal. In consequence of
some wrongs which had been inflicted on them,
these poor people fled with their families from the
villages of Mescala, San Miguel, San Pedro, Chican,

46 CONTEST BETWEEN THE
Tlachichilco, and other places, all situated along the
borders of the Lake. Under the command of a much
respected priest, the Cura of Xacomatlan (named
Don Marcos Castellano), they maintained with won
derful bravery and perseverance a war of five years'
continuance, during which they never once suffered
themselves to be surprised, and underwent, most pa
tiently, extreme hardships and privations. Opposed
to them the Spaniards collected a force of a thou
sand men, including soldiers and seamen ; and four
teen large launches with a schooner were with great
labour and difficulty conveyed in frame, and with
their guns, from the port of San Bias by the Bar
rancas of Mochitiltec. Three of the boats carried
long 24-pounder guns ; two had 8-pounders, and
two 6-pounders, while each of the others had
large swivels, and the schooner mounted six guns.
Yet with all this force incessantly besieging and
attacking the little island, these brave Indians
held out from the year 1812, — keeping themselves
constantly supplied with provisions by the activity
of their small canoes, which nightly eluded the

INDIANS AND SPANIARDS. 47
cordon of guard-boats, and in the most extraordi
nary manner kept up a constant communication with
the shores of the lake : nor would the offers of terms
from the enemy, or their own great sufferings, in
duce them to yield until 1817, when all resources
from the main land had failed. It was then that the
remaining handful of gallant men, amounting as it
is said to two hundred out of above two thousand
in number, consented to surrender on the promise
of life and liberty, — articles which the Spaniards
kept more faithfully than had been their custom in
the revolutionary war. At this time the Spanish
force was commanded in chief by a Capitan de
Navio, and in second by a Teniente de Navio ; yet
the canoes captured one launch with fifty men, by
the Indians splashing water over the arms of the
Spaniards during the battle ; sunk another ; and
in various attacks with muskets and thqir slings
killed great numbers of their assailants.
I had brought an order from Guadalaxara for a
boat to carry me to the Indian Isle ; and the eight
men who rowed me having all been engaged in

'*» ISLE OF MESCAL.
the war, under the Spanish flag, recounted to me
such anecdotes of the bravery, activity, endurance,
and devotedness of these people, that I never more
regretted my deficiency as a writer to embody so
romantic a history in the form of a novel. One
of the most daring exploits took place at a time
when the island was closely invested night and
day by the cordon of Spanish guard-boats ; yet
the canoes passed unseen between them, and a
body of Indians landed and marched to the Ha
cienda of Atequiza. They burnt and plundered it,
and carrying off a store of corn and provisions of
which they were in great want, returned safely and
unobserved through the same impediments to
their little retreat. They frequently landed and
destroyed the outposts of the Spaniards at the
Campo, and by their constant surprises kept them
in continual alarm. Even the women fought with
as much determined bravery as the men, and were
scarcely less feared by their besiegers; instances
sometimes occurring in which these devoted crea
tures rushed on the bayonets of those who had

ISLE OF MESCAL. 49
slain their husbands, for the wild satisfaction of
killing with their daggers the soldiers who had
fired the fatal shot.
Until the " Grito " (war-cry) ran through their
country, the Chapala Indians had ever been es
teemed the most mild and quiet of the agricultural
villagers, and their countenances bespeak a peculiar
placidity of temper : but a sense of wrongs called
forth a latent spirit which struck terror into the
disciplined troops of their oppressors, and placed
their name conspicuously on the list of the liberators
of their country. At the beginning of the contest,
an incident occurred which is worthy of the bright
est age of the Romans. Unarmed, ignorant of war,
suffering from want of food and shelter, surrounded
by their wives and children, — " Cruz * sent to them
a proclamation, exhorting obedience to the king of
Spain. The commissioner read it in a loud voice to
the Indians, (who listened to him most attentively,)
concluding with energy, and saying that if they did
not submit, blood would fow in abundance ! Having
* The Spanish Commander.
VOL. II. E

50 ISLE OF MESCAL.
finished reading, he inquired of the Indians, ' How
reply you to this?' when they, as if inspired by the
same spirit and speaking with one voice, replied
simultaneously, Let the blood Jlcrw*!"
The Island of Mescal is a small rocky place,
little more than half a mile in length and a quarter
in width, of an irregular form, and having a small
narrow isthmus running from its northern end. It
could be ascended with ease' in any direction. The
island is about four miles from Tlachichilco, and
sixteen from the opposite southern shore of the
lake, which extends from it S.W. by W. about
thirty miles, and in the opposite quarter fifty more,
hemmed in on all sides by steep ridges of moun-
* " Cruz les mando un papelote exhortandolos a la obedien-
cia al Rey de Espafia. El comisionado lo Iey6 en voz alta,
y los Indios lo escucharon atentamente ; ccncluio con braba-
tas, diciendo que si no se sometean ' Corrcria la sangre en
abundancia;' y al terminar pregunto a los Indios i Que respon-
deis a est6 ? y ellos si estuvieron insuflados por un espiritu,
y hablaron por unaboca, respondieron simultaneamente ' Que
corra el sangre!' " — Extracted from a recently published work
on the Mexican Revolution: by Don Carlos Bustamante :
Mexico.

ISLE OF MESCAL. 51
tains, which to the east are but dimly seen in the
distance. Off Mescal is a smaller islet, of about eight or
ten acres, on which the Indians also for a time
maintained themselves, until the straitness of
their siege obliged them to join their companions
on the larger one. I looked in vain on the little
rock for traces of Indian habitations, and learnt
that throughout the contest the warriors had not
even huts, but sheltered themselves and their
wretched families from the burning sun or over
whelming tropical rains, beneath boughs, blankets,
or mats, brought from the main land. In all their
misery, they sowed maize every year on one or
two small ridges ; but the produce, although culti
vated with the greatest care, and held sacred by
the famished women and children who saw it grow
ing within their reach, did not answer an hundredth
part of their necessity. Not a bush or tree was
left standing, and the want of fuel was latterly as
severely felt as that of food. One solitary build
ing alone remains, to record at once the poverty
E 2

52 ISLE OF MESCAL.
and piety of the Indian patriots. It is a very small
unornamented chapel, of about twelve feet square,
which was respected by the Spaniards after their
hard-earned conquest, and stands as an affecting
monument to the memory of those who fell, and
whose graves, as I was informed, were dug round
the sacred edifice.
The Spaniards on becoming masters of Mescal,
erected two large fortresses, which, although strong
from their situation, are never likely to be of any
other use than as depots for convicts ; to which I
hear that they are about to be appropriated. Great
sums have been expended on these works ; but be
fore they were completely finished, the country had
changed masters. There were no guns in the
principal fortress, which is now in the custody of
one man; but within its walls were piled large
heaps of stones, which he informed me were am
munition for the slings, which the Indians use with
great dexterity.
While at Tlachichilco, which has a ruined little
shrub-covered fort, a few huts, and some sheds over

LAKE OF CHAPALA. 53
the Spanish launches, now falling rapidly into de
cay, I shot some very handsome gray marmots, of
the size of Guinea-pigs, and having very bushy
tails. They live in the s,tone walls round the
maize fields, and commit great havoc amongst the
young green crops.
The lake is said to be of a pretty equal depth,
six to seven fathoms ; and one of the seamen of the
schooner informed me that there are but two small
shoals in it, and that the anchoring ground is ex
cellent in every part. It produces the delicate
" White Fish" (Pescado Blanco), the Boquinete,
Bagre, and some few other kinds. The mangroves
on the banks are the resort of numerous birds of
the crane and heron tribes. The beautiful white
egrets abound ; and ducks, grebes, shags (a small
species of tern), with a variety of beach birds, can
from their tameness be procured with ease.
We set out late in the afternoon through a con
tinuous and beautiful natural shrubbery for about
five miles by the side of the lake, of which we oc
casionally obtained bright glances through fes-

54 JOURNEY CONTINUED.
toons of delicious wild Convolvulus. Here and
there I observed rude crosses by the road side, de
corated with fresh chaplets and garlands of bril
liant flowers, marking the death-spot in many in
stances of an Indian or a Spaniard ; most probably
the former, from the care evinced in ornamenting
these frail memorials. We passed several little
embowered clusters of huts, now inhabited in peace
by the remaining heroes of the island.
Several Indians and their families were passing
amongst the lovely lanes between the villages, and
all saluted the stranger with " Adios ;" their deep
brown countenances bearing that almost apathetic
mildness of expression, so peculiar to the Aztec
race, and so completely the reverse of their charac-,
ter, when sanctioned by their religious leaders they
are aroused by a sense of wrongs.
We ascended by narrow, difficult and closely
shaded paths to the ridge of the northern range of
mountains ; and it was remarkable that on our de
scent of the other side scarcely a tree was to be seen.
A dark, rainy, windy night set in upon us while on

PLAIN OF SAN LUIS. 55
the plains ; but the guide, I know not how, found
his way through clay and water, and brought me
safely to Pomitlan, where I found my people com
fortably lodged, and had a curd cheese for my
supper. September 12. — At seven we sallied forth over
the swampy plain of San Luis, most prolific
throughout its extent in a kind of deep, tenacious
black mud, fatiguing to the mules, and not a little
disagreeable to ourselves. In some places im
mense herds of cattle were straying, while here
and there flourished fine crops of maize. In six
leagues we reached the Rio Grande, which through
out the day had been at the foot of the mountains
two miles on our left. Our animals having swam
the stream, which was here 200 yards wide, clear
of impediments, and about ten feet in depth, we
passed in a rude canoe. The river issues from the
Lake Chapala, near this place, and for a time flows
to the northward. On the eastern banks, but di
vided from us by a narrow inlet, stands the small
town of Ocotlan, with a large church towering as

56 LA BARCA.
usual above the wretched mud huts, by which it is
surrounded. In eight swampy leagues more we arrived at
La Barca, (total distance S. E. by E. 14 leagues,)
which was a village when in its best state, and
now in ruins has been elevated to the rank of
"Villa" (a town), a custom very general in
Mexico : so that without good previous informa
tion, the traveller knows not if the cities and
towns which he is about to visit consist of houses,
streets, and a population of thousands; or are
merely clusters of mud huts, inhabited by one or
two hundred poor Indians. La Barca stands on
the west bank of the Rio Grande, which flows
past it to the lake : and I took up my quarters in
one of two very wretched Mesons, which had the
merit of being nearest to the river, although I
should have been far better accommodated under
a tree ; the room apportioned to me being so full
of bats, and smelling so powerfully of them, that
it was impossible to remain in it. This town was
once of considerable importance, and inhabited by

LA BARCA. 57
many wealthy families, whose half-ruined unte
nanted houses yet remain. In the eyes of a La
Barca lady, however, with whom I had some con
versation, the place was as gay and flourishing
as ever. " It had two public balls every week, to
which any one could be admitted ; and occasional
bull-fights, in one of the last of which three ladies
had entered the Plaza de Toros, and distinguished
themselves very highly." By her account, three
Englishmen had also contributed to enliven La
Barca during the Easter week by setting up a
public gaming-table for fifteen days, thereby very
materially impoverishing some of the people of the
place. I am aware that, to the great disapproba
tion of their countrymen, a party of Anglo-Ame
ricans have travelled through the Republic as
avowed gamesters ; and therefore hope, for our na
tional credit with the Mexicans, that these were
the persons alluded to.
September 18. — My cattle were swam across the
river, now about ninety yards wide owing to the
dryness of the season, and the baggage with our-

58 STATE OF MECHOACAN.
selves passed in a large canoe over a sluggish
stream, which at some seasons becomes perfectly
impetuous, and rises so as to overflow the high
steep banks and to reach the neighbouring houses.
From La Barca, after two or three turns to the
N. S.W., the river flows into the Lake Chapala,
through which its course may be traced by the dif
ference of colour in the waters until it issues forth
at Ocotlan. As the morning dawned the scene
became very interesting, from the brightness of the
day, and the quantity of country-people passing
the river with cattle, fruits, milk and other articles
for the market ; while in little distant nooks were
to be seen small groups of bathing damsels, who
here have the merit of not swimming quite so pub
licly as at many other places.
We had now entered the State of Mechoacan,
of which Valladolid is the capital ; and riding two
leagues to the eastward, through cultivated lands
and abundant swamps, reached the pretty Ha
cienda of Buena Vista, where at the house of the
administrador, who was a friend of one of my ser-

SPRINGS OF BOILING WATER. 59
vants, I had a very bad breakfast. Riding after
this eight leagues from La Barca we reached the
little scattered village of Ystlan, standing in a per
fectly flat valley of two miles in width and three
or four in length, hemmed in by low woody moun
tains. The plain is interesting, as being in some
places covered by an efflorescence of muriate of
soda, which forms a considerable article of com
merce. The saline earth is collected into large
vats, through which water is filtered, and then
placed to evaporate in small well-cemented beds of
about twelve feet by six. All this, however, inter
ested me but little in comparison with the wells
of boiling water, which to the amount of many
hundreds are dispersed in a space of one mile
and a half by a quarter of a mile in width, east and
west along the plain, and sending up at intervals
clouds of steam. In fact the whole surface of this
place is nothing more than the crust of a volcano ;
and seven years back an earthquake opened a large
rent in the plain, whence issued fountains of the
purest water, and of mud also, both of a boiling heat.

60 SPRINGS OF BOILING WATER,
In the evening I rambled amongst the springs,
which are of all forms and sizes, from holes not
larger than an inch, through which the water is
seen and heard boiling beneath, to large spaces of
several yards in diameter ; some as transparent as
though distilled. Others, within a foot of them, are
turbid, or of boiling mud ; and there is one called
" El Pozo Verde, " in which, although perfectly
clear, the water is of a fine deep green. The springs
are in some places constantly tranquil, and varying
in temperature from 110° to 130° ; but in far the
greater number the water boils up with amazing
force : and in one well, chosen at random, I cooked
a piece of mutton of the size of an egg in four mi
nutes and fifty seconds. All the fountains which
have been sufficiently small to admit of it, have been
choked up with stones and bushes, to prevent cattle
from falling into them ; yet a number of poor beasts
are frequently thus destroyed. It is the custom of the
country-people to kill and scald their pigs at these
springs, and I saw a party of Arrieros cooking their
supper very comfortably over one. The stratum

SPRINGS OF BOILING WATER. 61
through which the water rises is chiefly a calca
reous earth ; but on the surface, detached pieces
of limestone abound, as well as porous lava of va
rious kinds, with fragments of obsidian : with these
substances there are also large spaces covered, or
indeed composed of a kind of light scoriae, abun
dantly filled with pieces of broken sticks and herbs
in a state of petrifaction. The waters scarcely
leave any deposit beyond a slight coating of white
salt, yet they have a very perceptible smell and
flavour of sulphur. The vapour appears to have
no deleterious effect on the surrounding vegetation,
since fine, although short, grass grows round the
immediate edges of the springs ; and it is very re
markable that the mimosa and other small bushes
actually in many places overhang the boiling foun
tains, close to which their roots are situated. In
some of the springs, which are frequently seen as
round as wells and perforated through the solid
rock, a perceptible rise and fall is observable at
regular periods; but in others, the bottoms of which
are choked with stones, a more remarkable phse-

62 JOURNEY CONTINUED.
nomenon may be observed. After boiling furiously
for a few minutes to the height of two feet, the
water suddenly sinks ; the earth gives forth a suck
ing sound ; the base is left clear of water or even
steam, and the stones in an instant become per
fectly dry; so that I frequently stood on them,
until warned by a low whistling sound of the re
turning gush, which was instantly thrown out with
as much force as before.
There are some springs of inconsiderable size
which have stopped entirely, and broken out afresh
near the old site ; and again it has occurred that
a clear fountain has suddenly become muddy or
the reverse, even to a perturbed one instantane
ously becoming transparent.
September 14. — We left our low mud room at
an early hour, riding S. E. by E. past the boiling
springs, which in consequence of the coolness of
the morning air appeared to give out more than
ordinary smoke. As we travelled onwards, my
servants informed me that a design had been laid
at Ystlan to rob me while I slept, by four men,

JOURNEY CONTINUED. 63
who proposed to one of them to assist and share
the booty. This man indignantly refused, but the
rogues hovered round the hut all night ; seeing the
servants lying awake for the purpose of watching
them, they had the effrontery to threaten that we
should meet again on the road. I however paid
no attention to this, until riding some little distance
a-head, as was my custom, I observed four well-
mounted and armed men drawn up in the centre
of the road, and by a sign from my people knew
these to be the rogues in question. They eyed my
double gun as it lay across my saddle in readiness,
and also saw the three men quicken their pace
to join me. As soon therefore as I had passed
between them, and exchanged the compliments of
the morning with him who appeared to be the
leader, two of the party galloped off into the thick
ets, and the others returned at a brisk pace to
wards the town, having spoken to the man who,
from having served in the same regimentwith one, (a
notorious character,) had been asked to join them.
Soon after this we came up with some pure In-

64 TOWN OF ZAMORA.
dians, who did not sufficiently understand Spanish
to tell us where they were proceeding with some
large frames, entirely filled with carved and paint
ed calabashes, which they refused to sell. These
people were dressed in coarse black woollen tunics
striped with gray ; each bore a long slender staffin
his hand, and they all walked in a line with a kind of
shuffling step which almost keptpacewith our horses.
The road lay over cultivated plains, and here
and there through thickets ; when, after crossing a
woody dell, we descended to a swampy plain of
five miles in diameter and entirely surrounded by
mountains. On the eastern side of this is situ
ated the town of Zamora *, which we reached after
weary wadings through deep morasses, and over
useless little bits of causeways and bridges. I
passed through the outskirts of the town without
stopping ; but it appeared to be a place of some
consideration; has three or four large churches,
and many of the inhabitants are said to be wealthy
and to keep their carriages.
* Seven leagues S.W. of Ystlan.

TOWN OF ZAMORA. 65
In this place, and also in several Ranchos which
we had passed, I observed that the houses had
sloping roofs, the greater part of which were
neatly tiled, while some few were covered with Ta-
jamanil (or wood shingles). Hence we passed
for some distance over a raised but very roughly
paved causeway, through the swamp, from whence
we ascended hills, where a heavy storm set in, and
pelted us most unmercifully for three or four hours,
until through mud and misery we reached a ruined
hut * in which soap had formerly been manufac
tured, although there were few signs of that mate
rial having ever been used by the inmates. Here
we procured a sheltered corner, amidst smoke,
filth, and two of the most wretchedly miserable
families I ever saw, who, though almost starving
and having nothing to guard, maintained seven
meagre and barking dogs, and a more- persecu
ting army of fleas than had ever before tormented
me. A poor man here was crippled in a most
extraordinary way, having lost by some species of
* Having travelled from Zamora five leagues S.E.
VOL. II. F

66 TOWN OF TLASASALCO.
decay nearly all his toes and fingers, and the few
remaining ones had every appearance of speedily
falling off also. Except being thin from want of
proper sustenance, he was to all appearance
healthy, and could not in any way account for
this infirmity, which had attacked him after he had
arrived at manhood.
September 15. — I was rejoiced when daylight al
lowed me to escape from the hut ; and wading over
an uneven grassy country, we passed at two miles
to the right of the little town of Tlasasalco, whence
Purupero, a small Indian village, is distant about
one mile on the other side of the road, and hidden
by the trees. Our way now lay through the gorges
of woody mountains, amongst which every oppor
tunity had been taken of cultivating the land for
maize. Occasionally we passed a solitary hut, and
several crosses and cairns marked the path of Re
volutionary war. Riding through a portion of the
mountains covered with pines, we arrived at 4
p. m. * at Cipimeo, a small Hacienda with a neat
* Having come E.S.E. thirteen leagues.

cipim£o. 67
new Meson ; but neither here nor in the cottages
round could we procure one single thing to eat :
and it is a remarkable circumstance, that in this
country, overrun as it is by thousands of fine
cattle and sheep, not one Rancho hut in ten pos
sesses an ounce of meat, either fresh or dried.
Looking out of my window, I was witness to an
infantine amusement which would rather startle
English mothers and nurses. A party of little
children were diverting themselves with a large
rattle-snake, which in all its vigour was tied by
the middle to the lash of a small whip, while the
delighted urchins were teazing it with pieces of
stick, which they presented to be bitten. Being a
novice to this species of fun, and not liking the
angry rattles or savage springs of the reptile, I
asked the merry little group to kill it; but my
proposition was in vain, and they ran off to enjoy
their dangerous plaything uninterrupted,
Cipimeo and its neighbourhood had been the
scene of some important battles during the Revo
lutionary war, at which period the Hacienda was
f 2

68 river cifim£o.
rich and extensive. General Negrete and the
Spanish troops made it their head-quarters, but
during their stay the house was mined by the In
surgents, and the time appointed when it was to be
sprung ; a woman, however, discovered to the ge
neral his danger, and the place was abandoned :
but Padre Torres, the priest, the most bloody of
all the Revolutionary leaders, in revenge for the
escape of his prey levelled the Hacienda to the
ground. September 16. — Leaving Cipimeo early in the
morning, we rode into delightful shrubberies in a
small wild Barranca, where the little river Cipimeo,
which rises in a neighbouring swamp, was tumbling
in a beautiful cascade of thirty or forty feet,
amidst rocks and trees. On fording the trans
parent stream, we found all the inhabitants as
well as curs of a few huts in loud pursuit of a
mad dog, which gave them a fine chase; and
after a shower of blows from sticks and stones
the wretched animal escaped into the wilder
ness. This was the first time I had heard of the

FLOCKS OF ORIOLES. 69
existence of hydrophobia in Mexico, where it is
called el Mai ; but one of my people very gravely
informed me that all danger from a bite might be
avoided by the simple process of burying the un
fortunate dog under a Fresnillo or ash-tree ! From
the ford we rode over a perfectly level plain, al
ternately dry and swampy, E. by S. six leagues.
Fine mountains hemmed it in on either side at about
three leagues apart, and thousands of brood mares
and cattle covered the surface of the " Llano del
Quatro," while its borders were dotted with Ran
chos and Haciendas. The quantities of orioles
were at this place quite extraordinary, following
and feeding amongst the cattle, on whose backs
they perched in great numbers with the most per
fect familiarity. When disturbed, their flocks
darkened the air ; and some idea may be formed of
their abundance, from the fact, that with one dis
charge of my fowling-piece I killed enough to fill
a pocket-handkerchief. There were three varieties
of these creatures; one perfectly black, another
having a yellowish head and neck, and the third

70 tecacho.
bearing a bright yellow spot on the first joint of
the wing ; but all associated in common, and pos
sibly may have been the same species in various
stages of age and plumage. Crossing a small hill
we breakfasted under the shade of some bushes
near a hut, where we procured an abundant supply
of whey, for which the Ranchera refused any pay
ment, saying that " she sold nothing to travellers,
but gave what little she possessed with pleasure."
I could have embraced the old woman as the first
and only person in Mexico whom I ever knew to
refuse money. Travelling four leagues we arrived
at the Hacienda Tecacho, a pretty retired little
spot, traversed by some small rapid streams. Here,
in a paved circle, several horses were treading out
the wheat, to be ground in a small water-mill. I
made a drawing of the process, which was very
neat and simple. In five leagues further to the
S. E. we reached the Rancho of Teristeran, where
we put up under the eaves of a hut, and procured
but indifferent fare, for which our hosts, although
comparatively wealthy, charged exorbitantly.

CITY OF TSINSUNSAN. 71
Sept. 17. — On the morning of the 17th the
women of the family pestered me in addition for
rings and trinkets, " as the English," they said,
" although not Christianos, have always things to
give away." Our road now lay amongst the
woody dells of the mountains, in one of which a
long natural fissure was pointed out to me, as the
road by which the Indians of the ancient city of
Tsinsunsan, a day's journey to our right, " were
accustomed before the Conquest to carry provi
sions for the table of Montezuma with such expedi
tion, from hand to hand, that on arriving at Mexico
they were still warm !" The distance is nearly
100 leagues, which to the country-people, who de
light in the marvellous, renders the story the more
orthodox in proportion to its impossibility. This
city of Tsinsunsan, was once of considerable ex
tent, and the residence of the king Calsouzi, who
was an ally of Cortez, and assisted with his Chi-
chimecos in the subjugation of Mexico. The pa
lace of this monarch and other interesting re
mains are still to be seen on the borders of the

72 CITY OF VALLADOLID.
lake of Pascuaro, which is of considerable size, and
in many respects well worthy of a visit ; but as I
travelled not on my own account, I did not feel
myself authorized to make it.
The Indians in Tsinsunsan are still unmixed
in blood with their conquerors, and the Zaresco
language is the only one spoken by the greater
part of them. In the lake, the Pescado Blanco, so
deservedly celebrated, is caught in great abun
dance, and near its borders are situated some rich
lodes of copper. In six leagues amongst the hills
we reached a plain, and entered the city of Valla-
dolid*, having traversed a well-built causeway
and some small bridges across an extensive mo
rass. I had" considerable difficulty in passing my
baggage at the Guarita, owing to the impudence
of the people in charge of it, who had acquired
just sufficient of our " vulgar tongue " from En
glish or American travellers to be very saucy and
familiar. I was much struck, on entering Valladolid, by
* About east from Teristeran.

ALAMEDA. 73
the width and airy appearance of its streets, the
goodness of the houses, and its magnificent cathe
dral ; and I put up at a very large and superior me
son, with clean, spacious, and newly painted rooms. I
was, however, much annoyed by constant tappings
at my door, more or less loud according to the
imagined merits of the case, by herds of beggars,
who in the name of the Blessed Virgin, or Our
Lady of Guadalupe, implored charity. In the
evening I visited the Alameda and Paseo, both on
the eastern side of the town. The first is a straight
broad walk, paved with flat slabs and bounded on
either side by low stone walls and benches, over
shadowed by rows of fine trees, whose branches
frequently joined in the centre. By the side of
this runs i portion of the Paseo, which is a road
of sufficient width for two carriages, and extending
about a mile to the southward, branching off into
shady lanes leading to various parts of the southern
suburbs. These walks, or drives, are exceedingly
pretty ; and the effect of the entrance to the Ala
meda is heightened by being crossed by a portion

74 COCKPIT.
of a fine aqueduct of excellent masonry, on light
ornamental arches, which, including a branch
from the main course, extend about a mile to the
foot of a hill eastward of the city.
As it was Sunday, all the gay people were in
their best clothes, and rambling in the public walks,
amongst which, clumsy heavy carriages driven
by dirty ragged postillions were rolling, laden with
ladies in court-dresses and plumes of feathers; All
were smoking, and eating alternately, between
their puffs of genuine Orizaba, cakes and painted
sugar-plums, which two or three dirty old Leperos
were carrying in baskets on their heads for sale.
Returning from the walk, 1 passed a house from
whence issued so much noise and such a jingling
of dollars that I was induced to enter, and found
a motley group in a spacious cockpit, paying their
debts of honour over two dead birds. . I passed
round the pit, which was crowded by a set of cut
throat looking fellows, in blankets and rags. Here
pulque, the juice of the tuna, and fiery mescal,
were selling in great quantities, to the evident be-

VIOLENT STORM. 75
wilderment of some of the gentlemen sportsmen,
of whom many were lying drunk and asleep upon
the benches, while others were sitting or rolling
about with their eyes starting from the sockets, and
in a happy state of uncertainty as to whether they
should sleep or quarrel. I was pleased, however,
to find amidst all the noise and confusion, that air
though my dress marked me as a stranger, not an
insulting word was said to me, but on the contrary
some of the most tipsy of the party pulled off their
hats. I note this apparently trifling circumstance,
as affording so strong a contrast with the reception
of strangers at Zacatecas, and as tracing on my
approach to the capital the diminution of those
prejudices which are rather cherished than sup
pressed in the Northern States.
At night-fall a very severe storm of thunder and
lightning burst over the centre of the city ; rain and
hail came down in torrents, and the forked light
ning was more than usually vivid. During this
war of elements, a boy was sent to the tower of
the cathedral, to toll as rapidly as possible the

76 VIOLENT STORM.
great bell, which, having been expressly blessed for
this kind of service, (as a learned priest inform
ed me at the time,) has the virtue of calming all
tempests ; — a fact I can bear witness to ; since at the
expiration of three stormy hours, during which
the tolling was hurried and incessant, the clouds
dispersed, and the sky, cleared of its load, became
as bright and starry as if nothing had happened.
September 18. — I waited with a letter of intro
duction on Don Pascual de Alsua, brother-in-law
of Iturbide, who was a native of Valladolid, and
whose relations still live here. The town's-people
were at this time generally supposed to be attached
to the party of the late Emperor ; but they are now,
and as far as I could observe, justly, considered to
be amongst the most peaceable people of the Re
public, although during the war their excesses and
cruelties towards the Spaniards were notorious.
The city of Valladolid pleased me more than
any I had hitherto seen *. It has indeed but one

* This opinion I carried through the country with me, ex
cepting only Xalapa, which from various dissimilarities cannot

PLAZA. 77
principal street ; but this is broad, clean, and cheer
ful ; so that a stranger escapes all the filth, misery
and crowds, with which most other Mexican towns
abound. The Plaza is remarkable as having broad piazzas
on three of its sides, and the fine cathedral isolated
from all other buildings bounding it on the east. A
crowded market is held here, and the venders dis
play their goods, as is the general custom, beneath
the shade of rude mat umbrellas. Fruits and vege
tables are tolerably abundant ; and amongst other
luxuries, the pescado bianco (or white-fish) is
brought from the lake of Pascuaro. The night
market on the Sunday is extremely pretty ; each
little shop having a bright blazing pile of the fra
grant Ocote (red pine) in its front, so that from an
elevated window the scene is very lively and pecu
liar. All the houses of Valladolid have flat roofs,
the same as in Old Spain, with long water-spouts
be fairly advanced as a comparison with it ; being a retired
comfortable-looking place, of quite a different character from
a city.

78 CATHEDRAL.
projecting most incommodiously over the streets.
On many of the terraces a fine crop of grasses and
mosses was flourishing so luxuriantly, that I am
astonished at the natives not having taken so good
a hint for making little gardens on their roofs,
which would give a fresh and lively appearance to
the city.
The cathedral is a fine building, and although
crowded with ornaments, these are arranged with
great taste. The choir is remarkably beautiful,
and the organ, which is small and placed on one
side within the screen, has a fine ornamental veil or
facing, of a richly carved unpainted red wood. From
the choir to the grand altar is a broad walk inclosed
by pillars and a ballustrade of silver, surmounted
by statues of the same metal. On either side is
placed a pulpit, cased with its stairs in richly em
bossed silver, said to have been procured from the
mine of San Pedro del Barreno at Ozumatlan.
However great the quantity may even now appear,
it is but half of what ornamented the church before

ALTAR. 79
the Revolution, during which the generals of both
parties robbed this temple with very little scruple,
of a commodity so conveniently made to their
hands. The grand altar is dazzling with pure gold
and silver, so disposed as to have a rich, without a
tawdry effect. All the plate indeed in this church
possesses a merit rarely seen in others; that of
being clean and well polished, so as to look like
what it really is, instead of resembling dirty pewter,
the general hue of Mexican church ornaments com
posed of this valuable metal.
There are several other churches at Valladolid,
two nunneries, and four monasteries, all very much
alike. In the chancel of one are statues of The
Saviour on the cross, attended by Joseph and
Mary gorgeously apparelled and as large as life,
flanked by the two crucified thieves, who with In
dian features and hair are clothed in open-knee'd
breeches of bright striped stuffj with white frilled
drawers peeping from beneath ; the Indian costume
in the present day.
The population of the city is said to be 15,000.

80 POPULATION.
In addition to which, is one regiment of cavalry,
the soldiers enveloped in capacious jackets and
trousers, all of one size, and wearing round hats,
incircled by a broad tin band having the number
of the regiment displayed above it on a round
plate of the same material. The poor fellows, who
as Vaqueros would be active and warlike, seemed
sufficiently wretched in their new trappings and
European stirrups and accoutrements, with which
they can scarcely sit their horses. There is also
selected from the inhabitants a " Milicia Activa "
of 1500 men. The town has on the eastern side
some show of fortifications, and its approach from
the west is naturally defended by the extensive
swamp. In my rambles I greatly enjoyed the
ices, which are very good here, the frozen snow
being procured from the mountain of San Andres,
which lies to the westward, and from its winter
cap supplies all the ice-houses.
September 19. — We set out early in the morn
ing for the mine of Ozumatlan, but suffered an
other provoking detention at the Guarita or Custom-

PUEBLO OF YNDAPARAPEO. 81
house guard ; in addition to which, one of my
best cargo mules which had injured its spine by a
fall, became quite unable to proceed further ; I
therefore gave it to a poor Indian, who promised
to take care of, and endeavour its cure. Riding
E. by S. five leagues, we reached Charo, a small
village with a large church ; and thence, in four
leagues further, arrived at the Pueblo of Yndapa-
rapeo, in which, as in the former one, all the houses
had sloping roofs, and were covered with wood
shingles of a good length and breadth. Here,
under one of the broad projecting eaves, a large
party of women were assembled, having boiled ca-
motes (the sweet potatoe), tunas and apples, piled in
little heaps before them ; while large earthen jars of
pulque, of all palatable degrees of strength or sweet
ness, were ranged by their sides. As we approached
the group, they all hastily poured samples into their
little gourd bowls, and crowded anxiously round
us, to learn whose jar was the most to our taste.
I drank of the sweet sort, my people of the strong ;
and all were satisfied : though one fellow, an old
VOL. II. G

82 OZUMATLAN.
soldier, very roguishly drank off all the samples
before he would give an opinion. Proceeding two
miles further in the same direction, we turned off
to the S. E., and ascended the intricate mountain
paths, which in four or five leagues became so nu
merous, that we lost our way and rambled about
for three hours, until we found a guide to show us
how to cross the Barrancas. At length in two
leagues more we entered a deep dell, between
steep woody mountains, up which we proceeded
south, three or four miles, when after dark and
thoroughly wetted by heavy rain we reached the
mine and miserable little village of Ozumatlan.
Before entering the glen, I had seen from the
mountains the large lake or plain of Araron, lying
about four miles to the northward, from whence a
very fine salt is procured as an efflorescence, and
there are also said to be some boiling springs re
sembling those of Ystlan.
September 20. — On the morning after my arrival
I walked in a heavy rain amongst the woods in the
mountains to visit the shafts of the old mines, and

OZUMATLAN. 83
in the evening entered the Socabon, which running
500 yards into the base of the mountain now cuts
a very rich vein of ore.
September 21. — The rain continued without in
termission until the following morning, when after
a cessation of two or three hours it returned with
redoubled force. The dampness and cold of the
atmosphere at this season is exceedingly unplea
sant, and what we in England so well understand
by " raw weather " would give a good idea of the
climate of Ozumatlan during the rains, which con
tinue four or five months.
In the evening I waded to the priest, whom I
found living in patriarchal simplicity in a mud hut.
A pig lay sleeping on the threshold ; a lepero was
stretched at full length on the clay floor ; and an
old woman was snoring on a bed in one corner,
while the Padre himself was taking his siesta on
another. The good man appeared to be of half
Indian blood, was mild and gentle in his manners,
and troubled himself but little about any other
worldly concerns, beyond the care of his simple
g 2

84 VILLAGE OF OZUMATLAN.
parishioners. He was well acquainted with the
neighbouring mines, and gave me some interesting
information about them under a heavy cloud of to
bacco smoke, which "kept him alive in this wet
weather." September 22. — In the forenoon, I squeezed my
self through the extraordinary socabon of San Pe
dro (old), which by a narrow and tortuous course
was driven many years since, and for a time ef-
fected the partial drainage of that mine ; and after
wards made a hurried sketch of the village from
beneath my umbrella. Ozumatlan is situated in a
very deep narrow Barranca, between abrupt and
almost precipitous mountains, which are clothed to
their summits with fine firs, oaks, and various
other timber trees. I had no barometer with which
to ascertain its elevation ; but from the nature of
the country, the lowness of its temperature at this
season, and the fact of the mountains being gene
rally enveloped in heavy clouds, I should conceive
it to be nearly 8000 feet above the level of the sea.
To the southward on crossing the mountains

VILLAGE OF OZUMATLAN. 85
for three or four leagues is a descent to the Tierra
Caliente, from whence fruits and vegetables are
brought to the village market. The direction of
the ravine, which is filled with little short turn
ings amidst a thick and beautiful shrubbery, is
about north and south, for three or four miles. Its
width is entirely occupied by the path-way, and a
rapid mountain torrent, supplied in all directions
by innumerable little rills. From the narrowness
of the valley there is scarcely a flat space to be
found for cultivation, and two or three apple or
chards, with here and there a very small spot of
maize, is all the husbandry which appears. Amongst
the shrubs the American-hawthorn is here very
abundant, and its beautiful apple-shaped fruit (ex
cellent when preserved) absolutely covers the trees
with its brilliant clusters, resembling the Siberian-
crab in size and colour.
The mountains produce the red and white pine,
the spruce, larches, cedars, the roble and encino
(oaks), beefwood, and, according to the natives,
ebony; also the plane-tree, mimosa, and an infinite

86 VILLAGE OF OZUMATLAN.
variety of trees and shrubs, of which many are
very beautiful, but which I have not the science
to enumerate. The red pine is of two kinds;
from one the Ocote (or candle-wood) is procured,
the other furnishes the Tajamanil (or thin wood
shingles) which are used in roofing houses and
huts. The village is situated in the only flat open
space which could receive it with its church ; and
scattered little huts are perched here and there,
amongst the close thickets on the mountain's brow.
The air of discomfort of this little spot in the rainy
season is very striking; but I am told that in the
summer it becomes far more agreeable, although
very sultry. The huts are merely composed of
stakes driven closely together into the ground,
or walls of sun-dried bricks, which are called
" Adobe ;" above these the roof, supported by
props in many instances entirely independent of
the walls, is thatched by shingles of fir, a yard in
length and four inches wide. These are generally
laid with some regularity, so as to keep out the
heavy rains; and besides being tightly pegged down

OZUMATLAN. 87
to their supporting beams, are retained in their
places by some dozen large stones ranged upon them
at short distances. Pigs, dogs and people, live hud
dled together in the utmost harmony, in these con
fined spaces; and all — for the honour of dirt be it
spoken — have the same appearance of health and
perfect contentment. The population at this period
might amount to about four hundred souls, over
whom reign without opposition an Alcalde and the
Padre. The church, which was once good, is large ;
the walls not having suffered when the Spaniards in
the late war sacked and burnt it and great part of
the village, in revenge for not having found the
natives so rich as a vicinage to Ozumatlan might
be supposed to have made them.
The people are quiet and orderly at this place ;
and if no evil-disposed person gets amongst them,
will be aware of the advantages which must accrue
from Englishmen settling amongst them and work
ing the mines. The intellect of the rising genera
tion is not entirely neglected, for under the shel
tering eaves of a cottage I two or three times ob-

88 OZUMATLAN.
served about half a dozen boys and one solitary
girl, sitting on a log, and roaring out their respec
tive lessons to a schoolmaster, who at the same
time was reading aloud. It is indeed a singular
but almost universal custom in this country, that
in all the schools, every child is to be heard
screaming out its task, at the same moment ; and,
as the teacher usually walks about while all this is
going forward, and is apparently very little in
terested in the business, I cannot at all conceive
how his scholars ever contrive to learn to read.
In all that I could observe of the poor natives
of the place, there is, by their perfect exclusion
from the world, a simplicity and quietness of man
ners which might be turned to the best purposes
by the foreigners who settle amongst them ; and I
could not help picturing to myself, a number of
little plans for their comfort and convenience, the
execution of which would lighten the extreme soli
tude in which the directing English agent must
necessarily live.
I know not a place so buried amongst the wild

JOURNEY CONTINUED. 89
woody glens, as Ozumatlan; — the most exten
sive view is from one side of the narrow Barranca
to the other; and the general silence is broken
only by the harsh rattling of the turbulent little
stream, which rushes past the residence of the En
glish, and through the centre of the village.
The mineral riches all lie amongst the moun
tains which form the eastern side of the Barranca,
in the mines of " Los Apostoles," " La Machora,"
and " San Pedro del Barreno," now the property
of the Real del Monte company. To the south of
these is the mine of La Piedad, worked by the
administrador of an European Spaniard ; and on
the east is that of La Purissima, occupied by a
company of natives. To the north lies the mine
of San Jose de Gracia, the property of a gentle
man in Valladolid.
Sept. 23. — Attended by one of my servants in a
high fever, and suffering greatly from rheumatism
myself, owing to the chilling damps of the valley,
we set out at an early hour up the eastern range
of mountains, as I purposed visiting the mines of

90 TOWN OF TAJ1MAROA.
Flalpuxahua on my way to Mexico ; I therefore
avoided the northern road from the valley, which
in four leagues brings the traveller to Cinape-
cuaro, a neat town near which are said to exist a
mountain abounding in obsidian, and some boil
ing sulphureous springs. Our road up the moun
tain was by a very difficult path amongst the
woods ; and descending by one quite as bad, we
rode ten leagues through thick forests of firs* and
oaksf. We now came to a cultivated plain, over which
for six leagues a heavy rain accompanied us ; and
of two horses which sunk in a bog, one was ex
tricated with great difficulty. At sunset we reach
ed the little town of Tajimaroa, and put up at a
ruined " quartel" for soldiers. Our route had been
E. S. E. sixteen leagues, and was very comfortless,
without much to interest me except a party of In
dian women whom we met while the sun was strong,
* One of these which lay on the ground was twelve feet
in girth and ninety in length.
-f- Many of the oaks were fifteen feet in girth, carrying up
a straight stem without a single branch, for forty or fifty feet.

TAJIMAROA. 91
and who sold us some cool ripe peaches and tunas.
In the woods we saw three different holes, which
had recently been opened, at the foot of remark
able trees or rocks, where money had been buried
at the time of the disturbances.
Sept. 24. — My feverish servant, owing to two
copious bleedings I gave him, being now quite un
able to go forward, I settled every thing for his
comfort, and left him one of my horses on which to
find his way home after his recovery.
This being Sunday, the market-place or square
was crowded with Indians in their best clothes,
and carrying large bunches of flowers in their
hands, or wreathed into the women's hair. It is
believed that one of the great incitements to the
Indian war at Chapala, originated at Tajimarda,
where for some trifling offence a Spanish officer
had caused the Alcalde of one of the tribes to be
flogged round the Plaza. — On setting out we found
the broad level road crowded for a time with In
dians from the village of Arimbo, which we passed
in two leagues to the eastward.

92 TLALPUXAHUA.
Three miles to the S. E. of Tajimaroa is the
Indian village of Tuspan, the last in the state of
Mechoacan or Valladolid, so that we had now en
tered on that of Mexico. On our journey we
passed an immense concourse of people bearing a
large covered picture of Our Lady of Guadalupe
across the plains to its proper church, whence it
had been lent to hallow a mass in a distant village.
Four horsemen preceded this holy painting, and
all the Indian women bore large bunches of flow
ers in honour of this their favourite saint. Scarcely
was the procession out of our sight, before the rain
came down in torrents, accompanied by heavy
thunder and lightning. To add to this, we now en
tered on, and rode for eight leagues through, clayey
roads flooded up to the knees of our cattle, and it
was not until after dark that we reached the mining
Real of Tlalpuxahua; there, thoroughly soaked
after a ride of eleven hours, we found the Meson
full of travellers, and at last, as an act of charity,
were received into a hut, of which a poor woman
recently confined occupied one corner.

'blessing a mine. 93
Sept. 25. — I this morning waited on the Cheva
lier de Rivaflnole, director of the Tlalpuxahua
mines, who very obligingly insisted on my passing
the day with him and visiting all the operations,
after I should have witnessed the performance of a
ceremony which was quite new to me. It was the
public blessing of a mine, " El Tajo," then about
to be cleared of water. For this purpose the Padre,
attended by a great concourse of spectators, as
sembled under the large new Galera or shed,
which was erected over the shaft and malacate,
and prettily ornamented with green boughs, flow
ers, shawls, handkerchiefs, and tinsel, while three
show horses gaudily harnessed and attired stood
near the malacate. At a small temporary altar ad
joining the mouth of the shaft, the Padre put on
his canonicals, when attended by two godfathers,
who stood near him with lighted tapers, he read a
blessing on the undertaking, at the same time
sprinkling holy water where that element was al
ready but too abundant. He then with great so
lemnity blessed the malacate, the show horses, and

94 mines of ocote and las virgines.
the stables; after which the first Botas, or skins of
water, were drawn from the mine ; while hundreds
of hand-rockets were let off in all directions, and
wine, cakes, and rewards to the workmen were dis
tributed. After this ceremony I visited a small
steam-engine, nearly completed, over the mine of
Malduermes, and once the property of Mr. Wil
cox, at Temascaltepec. The mines of Ocote,
the ores of which are excellent, and those of Las
Virgines, also very good, were the next I visited.
At the mine of Los Santos Martyres I observed
a good promise of gold and silver ores, and brought
away some fine specimens. On the whole I saw
about twenty mines covered with extensive and
well built Galeras : every thing appeared in active
progress, and promising. I also went to a new Ha
cienda whose Patio was covered with tortas of ore,
and one more ancient, with several more in pro
gress. Here I found the produce of seven car-
gas of Pepena from Ocote, forming into Cuerpos
to the amount of thirty-four marks and a half. The
process of amalgamation is here four, five, or even

TLALPUXAHUA. 95
six weeks, for which I cannot at all account, as the
average temperature of Zacatecas is lower; yet
from eleven to fourteen days there, at this season,
are generally sufficient. The miners here are Ger
mans, and their chief, Mr. Burckhardt, is a man
of science and talent. Tlalpuxahua lies deeply
embosomed amidst richly wooded mountains, fre
quently intersected by deep ravines, and is tra
versed by a small river which goes by the same
name. From hence a great command of water
can be obtained at all seasons, and the stamps and
other machinery are now worked by its power,
which might yet be more generally and effectively
used. The mercury stood in a barometer by Carey,
according to Mr. Burckhardt's observations, at
22*470 inches. The thermometer being at 15 "6 Cen
tigrade. The town is built without any regularity,
but contains several large and very good houses,
two churches, a chapel, and two mesons : the peo
ple are well-behaved and quiet, and the place is
certainly one of the most desirable mining resi
dences I have seen. A letter from Mr. Rivafi-

96 MINES OF EL ORO.
nole introduced me to Mr. Walkinshaw, the gen
tleman in direction of the mines of El Oro, about
two leagues to the N. E. of Tlalpuxahua on the
opposite side of a finely wooded Cerro. El Oro,
the property of the United Mexican Company,
has a wretched little village round it, and the
mines are still very backward, although that of
San Jose Coronado has lately sent up some tolera
ble stones of ore. Its depth is 150 yards, and two
malacates were at work on it for the Desague and
produce. The mines of El Oro were formerly
productive, and a carga of twelve arobas (three
hundred pounds) was once sold at the shaft mouth
of the mine of Zapateros, for 11,000 dollars.
I had often heard of an animal named Zorillo, a
kind of pole-cat, which is abundant in some parts of
Mexico, and wished much to experience the. effects
of the pungent odour it has the power of emitting
when pursued. In Mr. Walkinshaw's house my
curiosity was more than satisfied, his dogs having
recently killed one of these creatures. They were
in consequence so impregnated with its smell, as

HACIENDA OF TEPETITLAN. 97
to communicate it wherever they went, and with
such strength as to cause a severe pain in the head.
I know not how to describe this peculiar odour ;
but it is worse than any thing I ever experienced
or could have imagined. The animal, as far as I
could judge from its mutilated carcase, is the size
of a very young badger, and much resembling that
animal in the disposition of its colours. It is said
to be slow and inactive ; but until my sense of taste
or smell should fail me, I never could have the
hardihood to chase it. From El Oro Mr. Walk-
inshaw obligingly accompanied me part of my
way through beautiful woods, interspersed with
lovely dells and plains. Here and there we saw
groups of fine half-wild cattle, and the blue jays
and scarlet-headed woodpeckers were very nume
rous amidst the magnificent firs and oaks. I rode
four leagues through this charming scenery, and
four more over clear well- cultivated ground, co
vered with crops of maize and barley. Having
made eight leagues E. S. E. from El Oro, I ar
rived at the large castle-like Hacienda of Tepetit-
vol. n. H

98 ROAD TO TOLUCA.
Ian, where even for money I could not procure a
morsel of food ; but my people found their way
into the kitchen of the ladies who own the estate,
and obtained a little piece of beef for a very hun
gry caballero. We were lodged in two small
rooms built against the Hacienda wall, and dig
nified by the name of Meson.
Sept. 27 (thermometer 5 a.m. 54°, 2 p.m. 70°).
— I set out very early this morning with one man,
sending the cargoes by another route to Toluca ;
it being my purpose if possible, to ascend the
remarkable mountain and extinguished volcano
which lies to the southward of the city. Riding
E. S. E. about six leagues along the northern foot
of a range of high hills, and having a cultivated
plain on our left, we afterwards cut across the
country in a S. E. direction, and with the Volcan
for our guide passed for six leagues over arid
plains deeply furrowed with abrupt gulleys and
fissures. On the only cultivated spot, at a cottage
door I saw the stuffed skin of a lamb, having one
head, four ears, two of which were liver-coloured,

ROAD TO TOLUCA. 99
a very thick neck, and two perfectly distinct bo
dies, each having its legs properly formed and
placed. I tried in vain to purchase this little mon
ster, but its owners valued it too highly to part
with it. From the rugged plain we rounded some
low hills, and in three leagues to the eastward en
tered the city of Toluca, where I obtained an in
describably dirty room and very bad stabling, at
the Meson de la Plaza. The mountain proved to
be at least ten miles to the southward of the town :
it was covered by heavy clouds, so that nothing
could have been seen from it ; and as I had al
ready ridden ten hours, and was far from being
well, I decided on not even attempting to visit it
on the morrow, much as I wished to have seen
the large lake which fills the crater to a consider
able height, and is surrounded by cliffs of above
a thousand feet in height. The summit of the moun
tain, according to Mr. Burckhardt, is at an eleva
tion of about 15,400 feet above the sea. During
the greater part of the year it is capped with snow,
of which a considerable portion still remained.
h 2

100 TOLUCA.
Sept. 28. — Toluca is a large and important city,
and is situated at the foot of two steep barren hills.
To the southward is an extensive and picturesque
plain, covered with rich crops . of grain and enli
vened by numerous neat Haciendas, with their
pretty churches rising above the bright green har
vest. The volcano is, as I have already said, ten
miles to the south ; and beyond it and the ridge of
adjacent mountains are the fertile plains of Quaot-
lamilpas, where the sugar-cane is abundantly cul
tivated. The city at the time of my visit was all
bustle and confusion, owing to its being the elec
tioneering head-quarters, for the naming of depu
ties to the Congress of the free and sovereign State
of Mexico*. The eventful day was close at hand,
and the distribution of pamphlets and inflammatory
papers, for or against certain parties, was going for
ward with as much rancour and violent feeling as is
usual in some parts of the Old World. The voters
* Commonly called in the capital el Congresito, or the little
Congress, to distinguish it from the General Congress of the
Republic.

T0LUCA. 101
had crowded in from all parts of the country ; and
in order to keep these genuine sons of freedom
within proper bounds, a large body of troops had
been marched in from Mexico, parties of whom
constantly paraded the streets. All the mesons,
with the exception of the one I lodged in, which
also sheltered a host of voters, were filled with
these warriors. I can scarcely venture to dwell on
the extreme dirtiness of this inn : the stairs were
almost impassable; and the galleries crowded
with beggars, and maimed miserable objects. Fod
der for cattle was scarcely to be procured ; and as
for man's provision, it was only to be obtained
from sundry old women who sat frying savoury
messes in the streets. I was too unwell to ramble
through the city ; but its Plaza and those streets
through which I passed were airy and handsome.
I left the place in the afternoon, by a straight
shady causeway extending a mile to the eastward ;
and riding four leagues in the same direction, ar
rived towards sunset at the little town of Lerma,
which had been in sight, in perspective, the whole

102 LERMA.
length of the broad straight road. This place is
surrounded by an extensive morass traversed by
fine raised causeways : and hence rises the Rio
Grande, which under various names finds its way
to the Pacific Ocean, near San Bias. The pools
of water are here beautifully transparent, and the
tall reeds with which the swamp is filled are the
resort of a great variety of water-fowl, amongst
which I counted in a very small space thirty-nine
white egrets. On entering the town I was stopped
by some odd-looking dragoons, who insisted on
taking away my arms from me, as I came unpro
vided with a permit, to take care of my safety : — an
admirable piece of justice towards robbers; who are
rarely punished if taken; and by the kindness of a
parental government, which prohibits travellers
carrying weapons, their professional risk is consi
derably diminished. In candour, however, I must
say that the laws of the state of Mexico are in
many cases put in force : but in the northern pro
vinces, where no crimes are punished, the edicts
respecting arms are in the highest degree encou-

LERMA- 103
raging to the " Knights of Industry." I trembled
for the safety of my weapons, if left in the hands
of so respectable a body of troopers as those who
now surrounded me ; but happily thought of de
manding a receipt from the officer, who fortunately
could not write. I finally escaped, by his saying
my arms would be taken from me at the other bar
rier when I quitted the town. I lodged at a small
dirty meson ; and being still unwell, retired early
to sleep, when I was aroused by an indignant Ran
chero, who had been stopped the same time as my
self for carrying a sword. He now brought me a
" permit" from the Alcalde, to whom he had vo
luntarily become my bail for good behaviour ; de
claring that he knew me well, and giving a list of
my marks, age, and other particulars to be inserted
in the pass. This, however, would have been of
little avail, if strictly examined ; as my friend hav
ing only seen me for a few minutes on horseback
and wrapped in a cloak, had given the most erro
neous description imaginable of my person.
Sept. 29. — I set out with this worthy Ranchero

104 ROAD TO MEXICO.
early in the morning for Mexico ; and on leaving
the town passed a rude kind of turnpike-gate,
where we paid toll at the rate of a real for each
laden beast and a medio for every loose one. This
tax is exacted for the express purpose of keeping
the road between Lerma and Mexico in repair :
but had parties of men been employed to destroy
this once magnificent military causeway, they
could scarcely have made it worse than it is in
many places ; and not an effort seems to have been
made to prevent its becoming equally bad through
out. We soon ascended the mountains, and tra
velled through delicious forest scenery, where firs,
cedars and oaks, were growing with a freshness I
had never seen excelled. Groups of market In
dians, travellers, and laden mules, with now and
then a lumbering coach drawn by eight mules,
gave animation to the roads, and at the same time
a hint of our approach to the populous capital.
About midway between Lerma and Mexico is a
small clear space in a woody defile, distinguished
by the name of "Las Cruces," and marked by

FIRST VIEW OF MEXICO. 105
several rude crosses, some of which are now fall
ing into decay, while others yet bore the remains
of faded wreaths of rushes or flowers. These
frail memorials point out the site of one of the
first and most sanguinary of the Revolutionary
battles between the Cura Hidalgo and the Spa
nish general Truxillo, in which the latter was to
tally defeated with great slaughter. The scene
elsewhere was enlivened by abundance of little
wooden huts, scattered here and there along the
road side, with their only room embellished by
shelves bearing rows of glittering bottles of the
fiery deleterious brandies of the mescal and sugar
cane. Jars too of foaming pulque stood clustered
in shady corners, inviting weary muleteers to re
fresh themselves previous to their entering the
" Great City of the Lake." From an eminence
we came suddenly in sight of the great valley of
Mexico, with its beautiful city appearing in the cen
tre, surrounded by diverging shady Paseos, bright
fields, and picturesque Haciendas. The great lake of
Tescuco lay immediately beyond it, shaded by a

106 FIRST VIEW OF MEXICO.
low floating cloud of exhalations from its surface,
which hid from our view the bases of the volcanos
of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl ; while their
snowy summits, brightly glowing beneath the di
rect rays of the sun which but partially illumined
the plains, gave a delightfully novel appearance to
the whole scene before me. I was however, at
this distance, disappointed as to the size of Mex
ico; but its lively whiteness and freedom from
smoke, the magnitude of the churches, and the
extreme regularity of it structure, gave it an ap
pearance which can never be seen in a European
city, and declare it unique, perhaps unequalled
of its kind. We reached it after riding twelve
leagues from Lerma, and passing on the last de
scent through the village of Tacubaya, entered by
the side of an aqueduct extending a mile in length,
bounded on either side by a shady road raised
above the surrounding marshy ground.

ENTRANCE TO MEXICO. 107

CHAPTER IX.
Entrance to Mexico — Beggars — Theatre— Pas^o de las Vi-
gas — Environs — Palace of Chapultepec, the site of Monte
zuma's Palace — Nuestra SeBora de los Remedios — Univer-
sidad — Botanic Garden — Senate — The Portales— Plaza —
Markets.
At the outer barrier the Custom-house searchers
were more strict than I had ever before found
them ; and not even a box the size of my hand
escaped being opened and examined, although I
had all the required passports. I at last created
great amusement for the by-standers, who on these
occasions are very numerous, by reminding the
pompous man of office that he had forgotten to
look at the inside of my watch, which I opened for
his inspection. After a delay of nearly two hours
I was permitted to reload and proceed ; and at
length found my way to the Calle Balbanera,
where I put up at a meson of the same name, and
about on a par with that of Toluca, but considered

108 MEXICO.
one of the best in Mexico. Here in a moment
my room was crowded by pedlars and importunate
beggars, armed with an irresistible claim to cha
rity in the name of the Protectress of Mexico, Our
Blessed Lady of Guadalupe. Being hungry, and
my hotel furnishing me with nothing but water, a
chair, and a rickety table, I sent a servant to an
eating-house to procure a dinner for me. It came
at length in the shape of two square bits of dry
tough mutton fried in pig's fat, and placed in a
large dish of coarse brown crockery, which would
have contained fifty more such morsels. About
an ounce of mashed cabbage sprinkled with hard
yellow pease, and a bowl of " Caldo" (literally hot
greasy water, called broth) accompanied my meat;
and a green chili and a piece of bread completed
my repast. I was also furnished with a fork, but no
knife ; the latter is seldom supplied. I paid as much
as if my dinner had been composed of the greatest
delicacies; and a boy who attended demanded, and
of course received, a present for the expedition
and cleanliness with which I had been served.

THE THEATRE. 109
Somewhat refreshed by this sorry meal, I waited
on Mr. Exter, agent for the Bolanos Company,
who very obligingly offered me a room in his
house; but this I declined, as it would have greatly
inconvenienced him. I promised, however, to be
come his guest during the day. At night, after
having enjoyed a very comfortable warm bath, I
accompanied him to the theatre, which, although
small, is neatly fitted up : yet there is a great de
fect in it, being so long and narrow that the voices
of the performers are scarcely audible in the cen
tre boxes ; this, however, I soon found to be of
very little consequence, the play itself being the
very last thing attended to. The better part of
the audience hire the boxes and the greater por
tion of the pit for the season, and attend every
night in order to hold Tertulias, to talk, and to
visit each other. The piece represented this
evening was " La Italiana en Argel," and was well
performed; some of the actors, old Spaniards,
singing with much taste. The audience were
quiet and well dressed, and although a light cloud

1 10 PASEO OF LAS VIGAS. — FLOATING GARDENS.
might here and there be seen to rise above the pit,
or float in eddies from the gallery, I did not see
one of the well-dressed ladies in the boxes indul
ging in the favourite and fragrant weed.
Sept. 30. — I rode out early in the forenoon with
Mr. Exter by the charming Paseo of Las Vigas,
which has on its left the canal leading from the Lake
Chalco, alive with busy Indians pushing forward
their iaden canoes to the Mexican market : many of
them were piled to a great height with vegetables,
fruits, green forage for horses, wood, and crockery-
ware : but I confess I looked in vain for the Arca
dian groups which Mr. Bullock describes with his
pen, and which his son has painted. On the oppo
site side of the crowded little stream are the Chinatn-
pas, which some people yet designate as Floating
Gardens. These are long narrow strips of ground
redeemed from the surrounding swamp, and inter
sected by small canals. They all appeared to abound
in very fine vegetables, and lively foliaged poplars
generally shadowed their extremities. The little
gardens constructed on bushes or wooden rafts

MEXICO. Ill
no longer exist in the immediate vicinity of Mex
ico ; but I learnt that some may yet be seen at Ju-
chimilco, a place near San Augustin de las Cuevas.
The Custom-house is placed at the entrance of the
canal as it flows from Chalco to Mexico ; and the
revenues paid into it are said to be greater than
those of any other place in the Republic, the mar
ket canoes being very carefully registered, and al
though not heavily taxed, their numbers with the
quantity of articles they bring, contribute to make
the returns very considerable. We rode at some
distance on the southern side of the city across or
along all the principal Paseos, which are numerous,
broad, and finely shaded by double rows of trees.
At length we reached Tacubaya, where I had en
tered, lying at a short distance to the westward,
and visited the uninhabited palace of the bishop,
which was undergoing a slovenly kind of repair for
the reception of the Deputies from Panama. The
building, erected shortly after the Conquest, is yet
in excellent preservation, and the gardens would
be fine if cleared of their wilderness of gigantic

112 PALACE OF CHAPULTEPEC
weeds. Here I saw for the first time, — and I need
scarcely say ate, — the delicious fruit named Peron,
an apple grafted on the quince, and excelling in
flavour even the celebrated New Town pippins of
the United States. The cultivated grapes, pome
granates, guayavas, pears, and other fruits, abound
ed, and lay decaying on the ground. Nature had
done every thing for the place, and the gardener
enjoyed a sinecure, unless when called to exertion
by the task of being showman to his neglected
charge, — a labour for which he had the further in
convenience of being paid. We next rode to the
immense and neglected palace of Chapultepec,
built by the viceroy Galvez on a small isolated
rocky hill, on which once stood a palace, and the
harem of Montezuma. The lofty rooms are now
all closed, the doors and window-shutters falling
into decay. An air of utter desolation reigns
throughout this once splendid building, from
whence a view of the whole of the beautiful vale of
Mexico is commanded. Beyond the western foot
of the mound is an extensive space, inclosed with-

MEXICO. 113
in walls, in which are yet standing the stupendous
trees under whose shade the brown beauties of the
Aztec monarch once wandered, concealed from the
public gaze. Of these venerable trees, I scarcely
observed one which exhibited the slightest symptom
of decay : on the contrary, their clean healthy
bark and branches, were it not for the immensity
of their size, would lead to the supposition that
they were of recent growth. The largest in this
grove is fifty-two feet in circumference ; and many
of nearly that size are ranged in straight avenues,
which they entirely overshadow. A white hoary
lichen named, I believe, " Barba Espaiiola," and
which is common on the large trees of this coun
try, hangs like long waving locks from all the gi
gantic branches, and gives to these glorious trees a
most indescribably majestic appearance. The Ba
ron de Humboldt considers these " Ahiiahiietes"
as the Cupressus disticha Linn.* I heard here
* A small space at the foot of the rock Chapultepec has
been prepared as a Botanic Garden. It is yet quite in its in
fancy, and some few plants had recently been placed there.
VOL. II. I

114 MEXICO.
an extraordinary story of some poor people who
immediately preceded the present keepers of the
palace. The family, consisting of a man, his wife,
and children, lived in a little hut under the, shade
of the building; and the mother one day hearing a
scream from her youngest child, which had been
playing at the back of the house, found it in the
jaws of a large wolf. The animal on being at
tacked by her, merely relinquished its hold to
seize on another poor infant; and being driven
from that also, it at last turned and seized on the
mother herself. The husband, who was working
below, hurried up on hearing the outcries of his
wife, and instantly killed the animal ; but in a few
days the poor woman and her two children died
of hydrophobia. — We returned to Mexico by the
aqueduct of San Cosmo, equal in every respect to
that of Tacubaya, and at the outskirts of the city
waited on Mr. Ward, Charge d' Affaires, whose
house was really superb. In its extensive garden,
amidst overhanging and flowering trees I saw the
tomb of my much-lamented friend the Honour-

MEXICO. 115
able Augustus Waldegrave, who unfortunately lost
his life by an accident when on a shooting-party.
We entered the city by the noble street of Tacuba,
through which Cortez is said to have marched to
his final conquest ; and amidst the splendid houses,
well-paved streets, and rattling of coaches, the ima
gination must be strong indeed, which can people
the spot with thousands of poor Indians striking
the last blow for their country, and strewing the
conqueror's path with their devoted bodies.
October 1. — I this morning accompanied Mr.
Holdsworth and Mr. Exter to the Hacienda
del Cristo, a few miles to the N. W. of Mexico,
forming a part of the immense purchase of Mr.
Baring. This is a pretty, well cultivated spot,
and has among other things a pulque planta
tion and a soap manufactory ; and it is not a little
blessed by its proximity to the church of Nuestra
Sefiora de los Remedios, which is situated on a
little hill at a league distance. This saint is one
of the most important of the idols in the very pro
lific Mexican calendar : the image, which is very
i 2

116 MEXICO.
small, and — with reverence be it spoken — noseless,
was brought over at the time of the Conquest by
one of Cortez's soldiers, and on various occasions
worked most extraordinary miracles in favour of
the invaders, which of course obtained for it high
veneration. This afterwards gave place to a deeper
feeling, and it was adored after having been seen
at Otumba to hover over the Spaniards while en
gaged with multitudes of Indians, and to assist
them in gaining the victory by " throwing sand"
in the eyes of the savages ! A chapel was now
erected to the honour of Nuestra Senora de los
Remedios ; forms of prayer were established, and
priests appointed ; and the worship of Our Lady of
the Remedies was added to that of the other idols
of the Spaniards ; until, having taken some dis
gust at its votaries, the image suddenly vanished,
and years elapsed without any tidings of the of
fended saint. At length a blessed Indian, in chop
ping away the leaves of a maguey to prepare it
for pulque, discovered the lost lady seated in the
centre of the plant. She now suffered herself to

MEXICO. 117
be restored to her worshipers, to whom she has
ever since vouchsafed her presence. Happy in
deed is the city of Mexico in the reconciliation ;
for without the aid of the idol, all the population
would have expired of thirst, she possessing sove
reign authority over the rains. The chapel of the
saint is neat, and very richly endowed ; she is en
shrined in a box over the altar, bearing a crowned
infant in her arms. Pictures of miracles in fa
vour of her votaries are thickly suspended near
the door; and even while we were in the sanc
tuary, three carriages full of ladies, who came to
purchase masses of a sleek roguish-looking priest,
drove up to the church ; but we had not time to
stay and see the ceremony. I have told a long
story about Our Lady of the Remedies ; but it may
not be generally known that she once was of great
prejudice to the interests of England, when Ad
miral Blak (Blake), having in the time of the ty
rant " Cromwel " blockaded the treasure-ships
destined for Havannah, was in consequence of
national offerings and great humiliation of the

118 MEXICO.
Viceroy and Court of Mexico, for many days and
nights before the altar of the saint, visited with a
gale of wind which blew him from the shore, and
the galleons happily reached their destination.
For this miracle, a splendid diamond ornament
was presented to the image ; and the whole story,
with various others, is told in one of the most ex
traordinary books I ever saw, and which I have
in my possession *. — I dined with Mr. Ward, and
in the evening we drove to the Paseo, where some
gaudy carriages were still rolling, and a troop of
cavalry drawn up to keep order. We afterwards
went to the theatre, where I saw, but heard little
of, two farces, in one of which Prieto, the cele
brated Madrid comedian, performed.
Oct. 2. — I visited the Universidad, in which an
incipient museum of antiquities is forming, but as
yet not opened to the public. The unfailing key,
* This modern publication, which is patronized by bishops
and all the powers of the Church, is entitled " Lo Maximo en
lo Minimo. La Portentosa Imagen de Nuestra Seiiora de los
Remedios, Conquistadora y Patrona de la Imperial Ciudad de
Mejico."

UNIVERSIDAD. 119
however, procured me admittance to the rooms, in
which there was but little to interest, with the ex
ception of some works in jade and obsidian. Of
the latter is a large mask, well carved and propor
tioned, and exquisitely polished : and when it is re
membered that the people who formed this, had
no hard cutting instruments, and that the obsidian
resembles glass in appearance although much
harder in its substance, their ingenuity must be con
sidered quite extraordinary *.
There were here a variety of figures of the rattle
snake, of various sizes, and chiefly of basalt ; but all
in the same posture, namely a compact coil, from
which the head and rattle are somewhat elevated.
With these were also a few mutilated figures of men
and animals, and some fragments of little deities ;
* From Don Jose Maria Bustamente I however heard of
a still more wonderful production of Aztec skill, which he
informed me was carried away by Humboldt. This was a
large ring of obsidian perforated throughout its circle, so
that a straw might be introduced at the only opening, and
traversing the ring would come out again. With all the in
genuity of Europe, I know not how this wonderful ring
could be imitated.

120 UNIVERSIDAD.
the whole inferior in number and variety to what
I should have, expected : but many more were on
their road from the distant provinces ; and I have
no doubt but that the collection will ultimately
become very interesting. In the court of the Uni
versidad stands Tolsa's celebrated bronze eques
trian statue of Charles IV., which once stood
on a lofty pedestal in the Plaza, opposite the pa
lace and cathedral, and was the boast and orna
ment of the city. Being the effigy of a king, it
was displaced and removed from view, and may be
considered as lost to the public, who, I know not
why, sometimes speak of it as the Caballo de Troya
(the Trojan Horse). In the corner of the same
court-yard and behind a screen of planks are the
statues of the goddess of war and some inferior
idols, and the celebrated stone of sacrifice, (which by
all accounts was never used for this purpose,) ex
hibited in somewhat embellished casts by Mr. Bul
lock. The great calendar stone is an admirable
piece of workmanship, and is built into a wall of
the cathedral, where its preservation may be en-

MEXICO. 121
sured *- I was so fortunate as to procure excel
lent models in wax, of this, the goddess, and the
stone of sacrifice, and would have also bespoken
one of the monstrous serpent god which I saw in
Piccadilly with the poor Indian victim peeping
from its capacious throat ; but the fact is, that the
original statue is nowhere to be found, except in
Mr. Bullock's exhibition. I was shown indeed a
large serpent's head, but with closed jaws, and
built as a corner-stone to a nobleman's house ; but
the body had never been heard of, — and I was
laughed at for my compassionate inquiries after
the piteous-looking countenance which I in Lon
don saw sliding down the horrific gullet of the
great snake f. I dined with Mr. O' Gorman, the
Consul General, who is married to a Mexican
* According to the Baron de Humboldt in his Monumens
de tAmerique, this immense work of art weighs 12 tons
9 cwt. 801bs. " Son poids actuel est encore de plus de quatre
cent quatre-vingt-deux quintaux."
t In a convent there is said to exist a very small muti
lated figure of this kind; but the original of the immense cast
which was exhibited, certainly does not exist.

122 MEXICO.
lady, and on my way to his house walked to the
exercising-ground of the artillery, where I saw ten
well mounted brass field-pieces, but attended by a
singular-looking set of horse-artillery men ; all in
deed in uniform jackets, but in every variety of
hats and trousers, chatting, smoking, and laugh
ing very merrily in the rear of their respective
guns. One jocose fellow did me the honour par
ticularly to notice me, by an offensive speech in
French, backed by about a dozen select words
from the English vulgar tongue, which our soldiers
and sailors seem to have taught to all the world.
A general laugh was raised at my expense, until
I walked up to the wit, and gravely taking hold of
his bridle spoke thus to him: " When you know
what it is to play the part (papel) of a soldier, you
will learn not to speak in the ranks. Were I
your officer, I should sentence you to a good flog
ging." A speech which had a strong effect both
on officers and men, to whom I kissed my hand
with a polite " adios."
Oct. 3. — My morning was occupied in the pur-

BOTANIC GARDEN. 123
chase of the famed wax figures of Mexican cos
tumes, after which I went to the Botanic Gar
den, occupying a small portion in the rear of the
palace. It was small, crowded to excess, and la
mentably neglected; but I was treated with the
sight of two fine trees of the manito or hand plant
(in the Mexican language " Macpalxochitl" Clavi
gero), which was once, and is even now, said to
be in the distant provinces an object of Indian
veneration *. I obtained three of the blood-red
flowers, which somewhat resemble the dragon's
claws on China ware, and have their five fingers
* The Cheirostemon platanoides exists, according to Profes
sor Cervantes, in forests in Guatemala. In the magnificent
work on the " Plantes Equinoxkdes " of M. Bonpland, vol. i.
plate 24. p. 82. it appears that in the year 1801, but one of
these trees was known to exist in Mexico; "quecetarbre avoit
sans doute ete apporte par les Indiens de Toluca, qui conser-
vent encore pour lui une grande veneration, et qui sont per
suades qu'il ne peut exister un second," &c. &c.
One of the trees which I now saw was about forty feet in
height, the other perhaps thirty ; and they were now, in Oc
tober, in full bearing. — Since my return I find that specimens
of this plant are growing in some of our English gardens. The
largest is I believe that belonging to Messrs. Loddiges.

124 MEXICO.
and little thumb terminated by points resembling
claws. I ordered also a collection of seeds from
the old gardener, who startled me by bringing a
small tin box, and a large parcel of dried plants
answering to the seeds within it, for which he
asked the immense sum of three hundred dollars !
I therefore gave him a more humble commission,
which he forwarded to me at Real del Monte.
After this we went to the Senate-house, which is
also in the palace, and heard an animated attack
on Esteva, the minister of Hacienda. The cham
ber is small, oval, and very prettily furnished,
having a little gallery for visitors at either end,
but ill situated for hearing. Every thing seemed
well conducted, except that very strong language
was unceremoniously made use of amongst the
speakers. While the discussion was at its highest,
the president all on a sudden gave notice that it was
two o'clock, — silence immediately ensued — all the
members moved off — and thus ended the day ; —
it being an established rule, that no Government
affairs should ever keep these patriots from their

MEXICO. 125
dinners and siestas, and that after the stated hour
every man should be permitted to retire and recruit
exhausted nature.
Oct. 4. — This was a memorable day for the
Mexicans, — the anniversary of the first sitting of the
Congress. At twilight, the park of artillery ranged
in front of the palace aroused all the slumbering
citizens. At dawn, flags waved triumphantly every
where, and regiments of cavalry and infantry fired,
manoeuvred, and fired again, in the Plaza, for
half the day. They then paraded the streets.
Again the artillery was discharged : and in fact the
whole time from sun-rise to sun-set was occupied
by one-continued noise of guns, trumpets, and
bands, sounding the eternal and monotonous
" march of General Bravo." I dined with Mr.
Manning, at whose house was a very pretty col
lection of Indian antiques, and here also met Mr.
Bullock ; who now finds how mistaken he was in
the grand ideas he had formed of this country, and
how much he has misled his countrymen in regard
to the fertility of Mexico, against which and its

126 MEXICO.
whole population he now rails most unmercifully.
The principal charm of Mexico consists in the
width and regularity of its streets, which cross at
right angles, and in almost every instance tra
verse in one unbroken line the whole extent of the
city; affording a fine perspective of nearly two
miles, although the natives allow them a much
greater length. They are all well paved, with path
ways on each side, while through their centre, be
neath a line of broad slabs, runs the common sewer.
It is a far cleaner town than might be expected ;
well lighted, and now under a good police. Many
of the houses are on a large or even magnificent
scale, and the whole of those in the principal
streets are fine buildings, but, as in many towns
on the continent of Europe, the custom of letting
the ground-floors as shops, stores, and manufacto
ries is very prevalent even with those who possess
the most splendid residences. There is one large
inn, called the " Sociedad," which combines the
characters of coffee-house and gambling depot,
and the Mesons are beyond description offensive

MEXICO. 127
and incommodious. Cook-shops for others than
Arrieros and Leperos are very scarce, and an ab
solute stranger would live worse in Mexico than
the poor wretches who dive for their dinners in the
regions of St. Giles. There are some warm and
cold baths, which to all appearance are but rarely
used, and abundant drinking-shops. The mercan
tile stores are well supplied, and numerous ; but
the greatest traffic among the common people is
carried on in the Portales, of which there are se
veral on an extensive scale. Here the stranger
sees the most extraordinary variety of people and
things, huddled into an apparently confused, yet
well ordered mass. Several principal shops open
to the Portales, and innumerable petty venders of
both sexes also display their wares, crowded on
tables, in boxes and in baskets ; in frames, or
spread on the ground. These consist of cutlery,
mock jewellery, gaudy clothes, dolls, toys, wax
work, glass, china, shoes, books, and in fact, an
infinite variety of things ; while half-naked Lepe
ros sleeping, overpowered by Pulque, or begging

128 MEXICO.
of the passers-by ; priests, monks, officers, Indians,
ladies, and Europeans, form a continually moving
motley crowd. At one turn may be met the water-
carrier with an immense jar hanging at his back
suspended by a broad leather belt from the head,
while a smaller vessel hangs by another strap in
front, to maintain the balance. In a different
quarter is seen a stout Lepero bearing a chair
slung from his head and shoulders, and in which
is seated an old importunate beggar. On turning
to avoid this object there is a chance of stumbling
over the fruit and flowers of some poor quiet In
dian woman, as she sits crouched against a pillar,
while the ear is frequently saluted by the loud
cries of the news-men, who sell in considerable
quantities the publications of the day ; — procla
mations for or against the Gachupines (Spaniards),
the Priests, the election of Deputies, or whatever
may be the most agitating topic of the times. In
a store under one of the Portales the English
merchants have established an auction-mart,
which is well attended, and is of great commercial

MEXICO. 129
in
utility. In the Plaza, or great square, the princi
pal objects of attention are the Cathedral, the Pa
lace, and the Casa del Estado, built soon after the
Conquest, and still, I believe, the property of the
descendants of Cortez. The Cathedral, which is
built on the site of the great Mexican temple, is
spacious, dark, profusely ornamented, and very
much resembling all the other churches of this
country. The Palace is an immense building,
comprising within it the residence of the Presi
dent, the Senate-house and all the principal pub
lic offices. This and the cathedral occupy two
sides of the square, and the others, with the excep
tion of the space of the Casa del Estado, are com
posed of shops and dwelling-houses. Here it is
that the Evangelistas (or ready writers) practise
their vocation, as scribes to the public. I saw
about a dozen of these men, seated in various
nooks near the shop doors, occupied in penning
letters from the dictation of their customers. Most
of them, as might easily be perceived, were writing
on different subjects : some treated of business ;
VOL. II. K

130 MEXICO.
while others again, as was evident by the trans
fixed hearts at the top of the paper, were tran
scribing the tender sentiments of the young men
or women who were crouched down by their side.
I looked over the shoulders of many of these use
ful scribes as they sat with their paper placed on a
small board resting on their knees, and did not
observe one who wrote a bad or illegible hand.
The markets are good, but crowded and lamen
tably dirty ; and I looked in vain for the magnifi
cent originals of the fruits and vegetables which
flourished so invitingly in Mr. Bullock's garden
in Piccadilly. Still the fruits, flowers, and vege
tables were good, although not by any means
equal to what I expected. Every thing, however,
is reasonable, and an amateur in fruit may revel
to his heart's content in pines and other tempting
things at very small expense. One peculiarity of
the market is the quantity of little cookeries
which are carried on along its borders, or mingled
with other goods, each under its humble shed of
mats or blankets. Beneath these, sit Indian or

MEXICO. 131
Creole women grinding maize or making tortillas,
frying all sorts of rank smelling and tasting
messes, boiling frijoles or black beans, and selling
pulque to the multitude ; who squat down on their
hams, place their little brown crockery bowl and
their mess before them, and eat where they pur
chase their dinner. Here and there may be seen
a strange wild-looking group earnestly playing
at cards, or some game of chance ; or a drunken
man, and sometimes a woman also, extended at
full-length on the ground. The Indians, so easily
distinguishable by their features and their dark
brown or blue woollen dresses, constitute the most
active part of the crowd at these places ; and num
bers may constantly be seen bending beneath the
weight of the produce of their gardens, which they
bring on their backs, for many leagues, to dispose
of at the markets. Their wives, although fre
quently bearing an infant at their back, also carry
a little portion of the stock in trade, and walk
quietly behind the men. They are a mild, silent,
melancholy-looking people ; by choice, habit, and
k 2

132 MEXICO.
difference of language, cut off from those round
them : but towards evening, when their goods are
disposed of, a gleam of sunshine seems to light up
their bronzed features; the pulque makes them
talkative, and they leave the city for their humble
villages, in groups, — laughing, chatting, and sing
ing most merrily. Report speaks of a compact
made between husbands and wives, that both
should never be tipsy at the same time ; so that
the one whose turn of happiness is completed may
be protected, and steered safely home by the
other. About this, however, I am rather sceptical ;
for I have frequently seen man and wife equally
pulquefied. In justice I must say that the greater
proportion of Indians avoid drinking, and those who
most indulge in it are old men and old women.
The Indians also bring in for sale little toys
and baskets, executed with considerable neatness;
and the Carboneros (or venders of charcoal)
amuse themselves, while waiting for customers, by
carving little figures of birds and other animals in
the commodity they sell. The ingenuity indeed of

MEXICO. 133
the lowest classes of people in Mexico is very re
markable, and is chiefly displayed in the construc
tion of toys. The Leperos form pretty figures of
soap, wax, pith of certain trees, of wood, bone, and
other materials, many of which can be purchased,
in a ramble amongst the Portales, for the smallest
coin.

131 NUESTRA SENORA DE GUADALUPE.

CHAPTER X.
Leave Mexico— Nuestra Seiiora de Guadalupe— her Legend
— Lake of Tescuco — Chiconautla— Pachuca— Real del
Monte — Cerro de los Pelados— Cerro de las Navajas— An
cient Arrowhead of Obsidian — Works at the Mines — Ha
cienda of Regla — Cascade of Regla.
October 5. — X left Mexico * soon after noon for
Real del Monte, accompanied part of the way by
Mr. Exter and Mr. Holdsworth. We rode about
two miles E. N. E. over a fine broad causeway,
which brought us into the celebrated Sanctuary of
Nuestra Sefiora de Guadalupe. It was too late to
see the church without express permission of the
* Let me advise visitors to Mexico not to send their
horses and mules to a Potrero, or pasture place, instead of
keeping them at more expense in the stables of the Me
son. My poor beasts after a week's pasturage, as it is called,
returned to me so weak and thin as to be scarcely able to
travel; and not having time to recover their flesh before I
reached Xalapa, I was a loser of above a hundred dollars by
my parsimony.

NUESTRA SENORA DE GUADALUPE. 135
sacristan, who was at dinner ; but when I pre
ferred my request, he readily granted it, and sent
a little boy to do the honours of the place. His
first care on entering the church was to light a
number of tapers in front of the curtain which hid
the miraculous picture ; and after a pause he care
fully drew up the envious veil which shrouded the
painting by a " Divine Hand" from the gaze of
the careless or profane. As there was no priest
present, I took advantage of a little ladder placed
near the altar, to obtain a closer view of this won
derful production, which is coarsely painted on a
closely-grained canvass * previously primed with a
white ground. It represents the Virgin with clasp
ed hands, and clothed in a blue cloak covered with
gilt stars. Her petticoat is painted in red and
gold ; and she stands on a large crescent, which is
supported by a very ugly little cherub. This pic-
* This, according to the Abbe Clavigero, is woven of the
bark of the Palm called Icxotl, and which is seen in consider
able quantities near Vera Cruz, at two leagues from the coast,
where the natives call it " Palma de coco real."

136 NUESTRA SENORA DE GUADALUPE.
ture is peculiar, as having rays diverging from the
figure in all directions ; and although the colours
are faded, and the gold very dull from age and
dust, the eyes of the faithful do not fail to see a
dazzling and unearthly splendour in the dress and
features. The story runs thus : — Soon after the
Conquest, a poor untutored Indian named Juan
Diego, while labouring near the foot of the rock
Tepeyaca, where the Sanctuary now stands, sud
denly heard a peal of music, and saw before him
the Blessed Virgin in the attitude and habiliments
of the present picture. The man was very natu
rally astonished; but more so when the Virgin com
manded him to go to the bishop of Mexico, and
desire him to build a chapel to her honour, on that
very spot. The bishop, being a true Catholic,
would not believe in heavenly apparitions ; he
therefore reproved poor Juan Diego for his cre
dulity, and sent him away. Again the blessed
Virgin appeared, and delivered a more positive
command ; but the bishop once more dismissed
the messenger, with threats of punishment for at-

NUESTRA SENORA DE GUADALUPE. 137
tempting to impose on so pure and undeceiving a
religion as that so recently and mildly established
in Mexico. The mortified Juan Diego again re
tired to the rock Tepeyaca, where for the third time
he tremblingly saw Our Lady, who with some dis
pleasure repeated her orders ; to which the man re
plied by begging a sign for the unbelieving bishop.
" Go," said the Blessed Mother of God, " go and
climb the rock, and on its hitherto barren summit
you will find a token ; take it to the bishop, and he
will believe." Juan obeyed : and although it was in
the depth of winter, he found the once desolate spot
covered with the mostexquisite flowers in full bloom.
Filling therefore his Serape, or wrapper, with the
miraculous roses, he posted joyously to the bishop,
who called a number of priests to witness the open
ing of the Serape ; — when, lo ! as the flowers fell
from it to the ground, this identical picture which
I saw was found imprinted on it by the hand of
God ! refulgent in beauty, and almost too bright
to be gazed upon. Nothing more was now re
quired to enforce conviction : a splendid church

138 NUESTRA SENORA DE GUADALUPE.
was erected and endowed to the Patroness of
Mexico ; immense wealth was offered at her altar ;
and from that time every part of New Spain sentj
and still does send her, annual tribute : and there
is no town of note which has not a church open
as a sanctuary for all criminals, and dedicated to
Our Lady of Guadalupe. The first chapel was
erected on the summit of the little hill bf Tepeyaca,
and has near it a singularly-shaped turret, so faced
with masonry as to resemble a ship under sail.
But as the fame and riches of the Virgin increased,
it was thought fit to erect a larger temple to her
honour ; and the picture has been removed to the
present church at the foot of the hill. This build
ing is large and tawdry, with abundance of silver
in balustrades, which from want of cleaning look
like dirty pewter. Near this is a small chapel,
erected over a wonderful and most blessed well of
water, celebrated for the cure of all diseases, and
sold at a cheap rate to the afflicted. It is inclosed
by an iron railing, and is in custody of a reverend
man, the appearanee of whose nose would imply

LAKE OF TESCUCO. 139
that he rarely tasted any thing so mild as the fluid
under his charge. He also sells to the devout,
little books of the established prayers to the idol,
together with small crosses, medals, and rosaries,
which have touched her blessed figure ; as well as
certain strips of narrow red ribband, marked, and
purporting to be the length of the Virgin's hands,
arms, face, and feet.
From hence our road lay over a flat marshy
plain, which had once evidently been covered
by the lake, and the left of which for some di
stance was bounded by an abruptly rising chain
of hills. A few miles to the eastward lay the
great lake of Tescuco, glistening in the sun, and
appearing to lie at the immediate base of the snow
capped volcanos of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl *.
A portion of the plain is crossed by a magnifi
cent Spanish causeway, built with great strength,
but now rarely used since the retiring of the
waters by the Desague of Huehuetoca. We
passed on the eastern side, and towards even-
* Or, as I was informed, Estaguisiguatl.

140 SAN TOMAS CHICONAUTLA.
ing entered amongst a number of picturesque lit
tle hamlets, surrounded by their plantations of
maguey and wild tunas, and met a requa of thirty
donkeys, each bearing two skins filled with pulque
for the Mexican market. All had bells round their
necks, and were merrily complimented by my peo
ple as being honoured in their occupation above
all other asses. We had ridden about six leagues
when I stopped for the night at the hut of the
Judge of San Tomas Chiconautla, a little hamlet
scarcely seen to peep above its surrounding vege
tation. Beyond this, the distant gleaming snows
of the volcanos had a beautiful effect. I was
lodged in a small room filled with hideous images,
pictures, and frame-work for processions, all co
vered with black cobwebs, and which was never
used as a dormitory by any of the family, out of
respect for its exalted contents. I confess to
having somewhat marvelled at being allowed to
sleep in so sacred a place, overhearing my land
lord ask my servants " what I could eat; — whether
I partook of the dishes of the country; and if I

TUNAS. 141
should be angry at his offering me salt: for know
ing that I was not a Christian, and having heard
that presenting salt was an insult to heretics, he
was fearful of offending a man of such importance ;
for he saw I was carrying a most valuable cargo,"
taking my mineralogical specimens for a treasure
of dollars. Oct. 6. — We set out at daylight on a painfully
cold morning, and with all the country covered
by a hoar frost. The rising sun, however, soon
dispelled it, and became very powerful; but the
morning's cold still remained in the fruit of the
tunas, through which we rode, and which were
delightfully refreshing. There is a plant of the
Tuna family called " Petaya" and " Organo" in
the language of the country, which shoots up in
long fluted stems covered with thorns, and many
feet in height. It is abundant and gigantic at Bo
lanos, and in a Rancho through which we passed
this day, the gardens and the roads were bounded
by it, planted in the most perfect regularity, and
forming exceedingly secure and beautiful fences.

142 PACHUCA.
It is a variety of the Cactus Peruvianus. A plant
cultivated in our hot-houses, which much resem
bles it, acquires the height of a foot or two.
At sunset we reached Pachuca, having been
twelve hours riding sixteen leagues with my poor
starved cattle. At a few miles to the left of Pa
chuca, and amongst the mountains, arise some very
remarkable steeple-shaped and isolated rocks, of a
great size, and by all accounts of porphyry. They
are best seen from the plain, about a league before
reaching Pachuca. This pretty little mining Real
lies sheltered in a nook at the foot of the range of
mountains in which Real del Monte is situated;
and I found a good Meson, where without much
trouble a supper was provided ; a circumstance well
worth noting, as there is scarcely a Meson in the
country, with the exception of those between
Mexico and Vera Cruz, where food can be ob
tained : the tired servants are obliged to seek
about the town or village for some woman, who
will make a few tortillas or a dish of black beans,
or perhaps slaughter and cook a tough hen.

REAL DEL MONTE. 143
Oct. 7. — Riding before my party up a rugged
and steep ascent, I crossed the ridge of the moun
tain ; and in three leagues reached Real del Monte,
where I became the guest of Captain Vetch, first
commissioner of the Company.
Oct. 8. — I set out on an excursion to the
mountain of los Pelados, where the obsidian is
found from which the Indians formerly made their
knives, spears, and arrow-heads. Our road lay
through the farm of Guajolote, the property of the
Real del Monte Company, and situated amidst the
beautiful forests from which the Real is supplied.
Near this is one of the most magnificent spots of
rock scenery I ever saw, called the " Piedras Car-
gadas " from the particular formation of several gi
gantic isolated columns of porphyry, which rear
themselves on the opposite pine-clad side of a deep
woody glen. Several are capped (or Cargada) by
a large detached mass of rock, like the Logan-
stone of Cornwall. The mountains divide on the
right of these remarkable pillars, and the eye
wanders far to the southward, over vast plains,

144 CERRO DE LOS PELADOS.
broken here ana there by wooded barrancas,
and bounded in the distance by a dark moun
tain ridge, beyond which again the volcanos of
Mexico show the snowy part of their summits.
I made a sketch of this, which very faintly
describes the grandeur of the view. Passing
Guajolote, which is four miles from the Real, and
connected with it by excellent roads made by
the Company, we rode into the thickets ; and tra
versing all sorts of bewildering paths for two or
three leagues, gained by a different ascent the
summit of los Pelados. Here the trees have
been cleared away, and a most extensive view is
obtained, it being the highest point in the range,
though Humboldt assigns a greater elevation to
the remarkable rock, or Cerro de las Navajas,
which lay beneath our feet. From this spot, as the
day was remarkably clear, we enjoyed a view of
the mountains surrounding the Valley of Mexico,
with the picturesque volcanos. To the W.S.W.
the Volcano of Toluca was distinctly pencilled
against the sky ; while to the eastward, Orizaba

CERRO DE LOS PELADOS. 145
and Perote reared their mighty summits above
the dark and distant ridges at their feet. At the
northern foot of the Cerro de los Pelados lies an
immense chasm, or basin, in which the porphyritic
rocks have assumed a columnar form, and which
is evidently the irregular crater of a prodigious vol
cano. Dark pines and oaks add to the grandeur
of the abyss ; and its north-western ridge is still
further embellished by three remarkable turret-
shaped and detached mountains. To one of these,
Humboldt has given the name of the " Cerro
de las Navajas *," which more properly belongs
to the spot on which we stood ; although the obsi
dian is plentifully scattered over the surrounding
hills and plains, the vein and the pits sunk on it
by the Indians are on the summit of los Pelados.
I know not if the workings have been deep ; but at
the present day they are nearly filled up, and only
*» On this mountain, fragments of obsidian are found in
great numbers of the form of arrow-heads and knife-blades,
which have been fractured by the ancient inhabitants for use.
These have given rise to the name of " Cerro de las Navajas,
or Mountain of the Knives."
VOL. II. L

146

WORKS AT

sufficiently hollowed to show their original forms,
which were circular. Here we found several beau
tiful specimens of the Plateada, or silver-coated
obsidian, with many other interesting varieties;
and having laden ourselves with these, pursued
another route homewards by the precipitous edge
of the great crater, near which we were obliged to
lead our horses, and round the foot of the Cerro
de las Navajas.
Oct. 11.— An attack of dysentery, which since
my exposure to the rains at Ozumatlan had been
slowly increasing, now became so severe as to
render it imprudent for me to go underground in
the mines, where I must unavoidably have got wet ;
and finding myself for many days extremely weak,
my excursions were confined to expeditions about
the surface on horseback. In these I was enabled
to visit the very extensive grass works and erec
tions, many of which are on the same models and
principles as are seen in the Cornish mines. The
stores, workshops, foundry and offices, are of sub
stantial masonry ; and the shafts of every mine, as

REAL DEL MONTE. 147
well as these establishments, are inclosed within
high well-built walls. The engine-houses were in
rapid progress, and in that of Dolores the engine
was nearly completed. A steam saw-mill was set
at work during my stay at the Real ; and the hori
zontal engine of Messrs. Taylor and Martineau,
which had been pumping but a short time at
Moran, had very nearly (and has since entirely)
cleared the mine to the bottom. For the supply
of the engine at Moran the timber is cut in abun
dance from the face of the steep mountain on which
it stands ; and the whole of the surrounding hills
abound in wood, which with but little trouble and
expense can be brought to the other engines also.
Stamping engines to be worked by steam were
erecting in the Real, and others to be worked by
water were nearly completed at the New Hacienda
of Sanchez, situated at the end of the valley about
four miles to the northward. Dressing floors and
other requisite preparations for crushing and wash
ing the ores have here been prepared ; stores and
residences are built ; and the whole establishment
l 2

148 REAL DEL MONTE.
is inclosed by walls, and almost hidden by the
luxuriant vegetation around it. For the transport
of building and other materials, light European
carts have been introduced with great success, and
excellent roads, blasted in many instances with
great labour from the hard porphyry rocks, now
traverse the extensive mining establishment in
every direction. English tools are in great re
quest ; and in fact, were it not for the peculiarity
of the stupendous scenery of the place, a visitor
might almost imagine himself in England.
Real (or more properly Mineral) del Monte * is
indeed a beautiful spot, and the valley or ravine,
which extends about two miles to the northward
of the town and two miles further to the New
Hacienda of Sanchez, is most superb. The rapid
mountain torrent tumbles through it over a
rugged rocky channel, and from the banks to
the summit of the steep mountains which closely
* The term " Real", or Royalty, was formerly applied to a
mining district ; but since the Revolution, the title of " Mi
neral'' has been substituted for it.

REAL DEL MONTE. 149
hem it in, is an unbroken forest of the Ocote (or
fir), the evergreen oak (of which nine varieties are
met with in the district), and the " Oyamel." This
lovely scenery continues until immediately beyond
Sanchez, when it leaves the gorge of the moun
tains, and enters- on the flatter yet still beautiful
country. There is scarcely a spot in this extent
but is worthy the pencil of the artist. The various
tints of the rich foliage, the picturesque bridges,
bold rocks, and well-peopled roads, blasted in the
porphyritic rock, with the ever-varying curves and
leaps of the stream, possess a novelty and charm
seldom equalled.
It may not here be amiss to explain to my
readers some of the very natural reasons for the
ruinous state in which the generality of Mexican
mines were found, and which do not apply to long
neglected workings in England. — We will suppose
the mine, for some cause or other, to be suddenly
abandoned. Those levels which by constant care
have from the time of their formation been kept
clear of water, now receive it. If there is any soft

150 REAL DEL MONTE.
ground in them, great ruin must ensue. The
periodical rains, which can be little understood by
those who have never entered the tropics, carry
vast quantities of earth, nay even large rocks,
down the shafts, on whose upper edges a vegetation,
of which many people can form no idea, is shooting
up with all that wild luxuriance peculiar to the
country. The Mexicans never boarded over the
shafts, but left them quite unprotected. A small
twig is seen hanging over the abyss : — in a year this
assumes the form of a tree, and in a very few more,
is one; its roots hang over the shaft; it detaches
large masses of earth, and is at last swept into the
pit to add to the other deposits. This may be the
case with many trees and shrubs in rapid succes
sion ; and in a very few years a shaft is frequently
filled almost to its mouth. The labour of our
countrymen has in many mstances been directed
to clear these places again. The side earth is
found to be loqsened, the shaft in fact unsafe ; —
the slow, expensive operation of "timbering"
therefore becomes requisite; some kind of ma-

REAL DEL MONTE. 151
chinery is necessary to hoist the earth and rocks
from below ; and after a great expense of time and
money the workmen clear " down to water " —
but it is water filled with rubbish. This water
must be pumped out, or drawn by malacates and
skin bags,— a double operation therefore goes on
to clear out the water and earth. A level is ar
rived at : — this level must also be cleared. And so
proceeds this arduous work, until the desired lode
is reached. Proper allowances are seldom made
by persons inexperienced in mining, for the time
requisite for the accomplishment of clearing a
mine that has been long neglected.
October 12.— On the 12th I rode out with Mr.
Colquhoun to the farm of Ystula, belonging to the
Company, situated about twelve miles from Real
del Monte. Immediately after leaving the Bar
ranca at Sanchez, we passed through the very
pretty little village of Omitlan ; and riding over
plains covered with small Ranchos and maize-
fields, arrived at Ystula, where about two thousand
acres are under cultivation upon the English plan.

152 REAL DEL MONTE.
The ground is so laid out, that had not a solitary
maguey plant occasionally made its appearance by
the way-side, I should have imagined myself in
England. The illusion was kept up by my seeing
English ploughs, harrows, carts, and waggons. A
small stream runs on each side of the estate ; and
every field can, if necessary, be irrigated. In fact,
under existing circumstances, this farm is of con
siderable importance. Our farming implements
are admired, and will be imitated : the method of
preparing the land is approved by the natives ; and
the certainty that turnips may be sown and pota
toes planted in a field instead of in little patches,
has excited admiration amongst the Hacienderos
near Ystula. In the afternoon we rode to the Ha
cienda of San Miguel, the country residence of the
Conde de Regla, whom we found at home, and
who was very kind and attentive, promising to
meet us on the morrow at Regla. He was living
in a ground-floor house, out of repair, ill furnished,
and comfortless ; the rooms all looking into a
small square in the centre, — no advantage being

REAL DEL MONTE. 153
taken of a fine view, of which the Mexicans have
less idea than perhaps any people in the world.
The owners of the largest and finest Hacienda,
yielding perhaps a revenue of 100,000 dollars, are
content with apartments and provisions which an
English gentleman would hesitate to offer to his
servants. October 13. — On the following morning we rode
to Regla, about a mile N. W. of the farm, and en
tered the celebrated Hacienda de Plata, which is
said to have cost 500,000/. sterling. It is now an
immense ruin, crowded with monstrous arches of
masonry, which appear as if they had been con
structed to support the world ; and I conceive that
half the enormous sum which was expended in this
place, has been thus consumed. Preparations of
a more useful nature were now in forwardness
amongst the mighty ruins ; but nothing could re
lieve the air of desolation, which gave the Hacien
da the appearance of a battered fortress. It lies
deep in a precipitous Barranca, fenced in by the
singularly fine basaltic cliffs, of which so much

154 REAL DEL MONTE.
has been said ; and close above it is the celebrated
Fall of Regla, of which Humboldt and other tra
vellers have spoken in such exaggerated terms.
The cascade is not above twenty-five feet in height;
and whatever may be the swelling of the stream
in the wet season, can scarcely at any time exceed
it ; since from its falling into a basin, the water below
would rise nearly in the same proportion, and still
leave the apparent volume about the same. The
basaltic columns are rdmarkably regular ; the left-
hand cliff cannot be less than one hundred feet
higher than the top of the fall, where the waters
are fancifully divided by two pillars, which appear
so much separated from their neighbours as to lead
to a supposition that they will soon be entirely de
tached and broken. At this season the river was
lowjbut flowed rapidly over a rugged bed of broken
columns on its escape from the basin which first re
ceives it, and which is almost overshadowed by beau
tiful trees. About three hundred yards lower, after
sufficient water has been turned off for the supply
of the machinery at the Hacienda, it is allowed to

REAL DEL MONTE. 155
escape over a paved sloping fall of considerable
extent ; and though we must dismiss the exagge
rated ideas of the cascade, the ravine is one of the
most beautiful and perfect basins of basalt in the
world. The steep banks of the stream, which are
composed of the debris of the overhanging co
lumnar cliffs, are eminently picturesque; and
amidst the blocks and broken basaltic pillars are
flourishing luxuriant rock plants, unknown to Eu
ropeans ; while on the precipice to the left hand
climbs an immense plant of the " five-leaved vine,"
which fancifully covers the columns to a great ex
tent with its bright scarlet and green leaves. In
this sequestered spot the coyote and the racoon
ramble fearlessly, and the rattle-snake delights to
coil and bask itself on the tabular faces of the
broken basalt. The Barranca in which Regla
stands is of considerable extent ; and at a short
day's journey to the N. W., the pine, the sugar
cane, and all the fruits of the Tierra Caliente are
cultivated by the Indians. On leaving Regla, we
again returned to the Mineral. The town of Mi-

156 REAL DEL MONTE.
neral del Monte is small, and scattered irregularly
on the hill side. It may contain about four thou
sand inhabitants, — who do not, however, by any
means constitute the whole populationof the district,
huts being plentifully dispersed along the ravines.
It has two churches, and a very tolerable Sunday's
market. The dwellings are generally of Adobe*,
and have sloping roofs covered with Tajamanil f.
The natives are now quiet and well-behaved, al
though on the first arrival of the English there
was a strong complaint against them : but I fully
believe that an equal share of blame attached to
many of our own artificers, — a race as strong in
their prejudices and nationalites as the strangers
with whom they were brought into association.
This place in fact almost appears an English co
lony, from the number of our countrymen, the
quantity of buildings erected after the Cornish mo
dels, and the use of carts, waggons, and tools of
all descriptions. The height of this " Mineral"
above the level of the sea, is according to Don Jose
* Sun-dried bricks. f Pine shingles. ,

REAL DEL MONTE. 157
Maria Bustamente, at the Parroquia (or church)
2758 metres*; the climate is cold, and some
times raw amongst the mountains, affecting the
lungs of new-comers, and causing shortness of
breath after even slight exertion. I was weak and
unwell during my stay at Real del Monte, and the
effect continued longer with me than is usual.
Others, however, experienced the same sensations,
until they became accustomed to breathe the
highly rarefied air ; and I myself felt no inconve
nience from it at the expiration of a week. No
thing is cultivated in the immediate Barranca, for
which want of space may be considered as the only
impediment. * Highest point of the Veta Biscaina, 2891 metres. Mo
ran shaft, 2575 metres. Pachuca, in the Plaza, 2431 metres.

158 VILLAGE OF ZINGALUCAN.

CHAPTER XI.
Departure from Real del Monte — Zingalucan — Lake of Te-
cocomulco — Appan — Volcano of Malinchi — Buena Vista
— Huamantla— Volcano of Orizaba — Guatepec— Barranca
and Mines ofSomalhuacan — Las Vigas — Xalapa — Plan del
Rio — Puente del Rey — Paso de Ovejas— Manantial — Vera
Cruz — San Juan de Ulua — Embark for England.
October 20. — 1 was now, although weak, sufficiently
recovered to set out for the coast ; and at half past
ten in a misty cold rainy morning I started, ac
companied by Mr. Exter, who had joined me that
we might travel together to Xalapa. My friend
Mr. Colquhoun had lent me his little "Dearborn"
(a light American waggon), and as I had a merry
postillion who piqued himself on his driving, all
my bones appeared to be disjointed in about half
an hour. In six gloomy leagues we reached the
little village of Zingalucan, where (next to its only
shop) we procured the best and most comfortable
room in which I ever lodged in this country.

VILLAGE OF ZINGALUCAN. 159
Oct. 21. Temp. 42° at noon. — The rain conti
nued without intermission all this night and the
day also : we could not therefore set out; but were
consoled by a visit from Messrs. Colquhoun and
Buchan, who passed the day with us, and advised
our not attempting to proceed until the weather
cleared, as the country before us was intersected by
deep marshes and swamps. We were all mise
rably cold, but with the aid of a large pan of char
coal and some cigars contrived to comfort our
selves. Oct. 22. — In the forenoon the weather cleared
a little * : our visitors accompanied us for a short
distance, and we pursued our journey, riding for
a few miles amongst smooth-topped hills and un
dulating dales, which with their detached clusters
of firs and oaks, have the appearance of our park
scenery. Here we saw a towering pine which the
* The " wet season" had now ceased, at least the peri
odical fall of rain was no longer certain ; but the elevated
range of mountains in this part catching the first clouds as
they fly from the seaward, are not unfrequently visited with
showers combining mist and a small drizzling rain.

160 LAKE OF TECOCOMULCO.
lightning had blasted in a remarkable manner,
having first struck its topmost shoot, and then tra
versed the whole trunk to the very roots in the
most regular spiral form, stripping off in its pro
gress a groove of the bark of an equal breadth
throughout, which gave the tree the appearance
of an immense screw. We now entered on low
swampy plains, deeply intersected by fissures and
water-courses, and indented through their whole
extent by the wheels of the waggons which had
with so much labour carried the steam-engines to
the Real, and which at this particular place met
with great impediments. In four leagues from
our outset we passed on the southern side of the
Lake Tecocomulco, which at this season appeared
narrow, shoal, and irregular, about five miles in
length, and having its borders absolutely black
ened with ducks, which we were in no disposi
tion to shoot during the heavy rain. We wound
round the foot of a low Sierra ; and passing some
rough rising ground thickly overspread with
masses of lava and abounding in Tunas, descend-

CITY OF APPAN. 161
ed to the plains of Appan, much flooded and
having several shallow lakes. Here we passed a
gloomy Hacienda, near which in one night
twenty-one mules of the transport party em
ployed in conveying machinery to the mines of
Real del Monte, were swept away and drowned
by a sudden fall of rain. Hence in a league we
reached the ruinous and half-peopled mud city of
Appan *, where we found a good meson for our
animals, but very bad rooms for ourselves, al
though a kitchen fortunately made part of the es
tablishment. We waited impatiently for our peo
ple and cargoes ; but as they did not appear, we
were obliged to sleep in our wet Serapes on a
damp mud flood, abundantly stocked with very
hungry fleas.
Oct. 23. — An accident to one of my mules and
the escape of my loose horses into the woods had
stopped our party, who now joined us, having suf
fered some slight damage. The animals having
had no food all this time, required that we should
* An eight-league journey.
VOL. II. M

162 CITY OF APPAN.
give them a day of rest ; and we rambled in the
mean while about Appan, which although but
thinly inhabited and half in ruins, has lately been
elevated from a village into a city. The church
is large, and has a very peculiar and pretty steeple,
unlike any I ever saw. The inhabitants of Appan
were celebrated during the revolution for their ac
tivity in annoying the Spaniards and cutting off
their convoys, which, as the town occupies a cen
tral position among the swampy plains, were
obliged to pass that way. The gently rising hills
are famous for their maguey plantations ; and the
pulque of Appan, said to give an annual revenue
of 400,000 dollars to Mexico, is the most esteemed
in the country. South of the town lies an exten
sive shallow lake abounding in ducks and gray
geese, of which we purchased some from two ex
traordinary sportsmen, who passed on their way to
the water, one mounted on a large black bull, and
his companion on a cow of the same colour, both
intended as" Stalkers." The knight of the bull
was a merry and sufficiently pulquefied old man,

VOLCANO OF MALINCHI. 163
who, the morning being raw, was well wrapped up
in his Serape (with an old long Spanish gun), which
scarcely held together, crossed before him on the
withers of his steed. The tips of the bull's horns
were sawn ofij and through the cartilage of his nose
a long rope was passed by way of bridle. A coarse
mat covered his back as a saddle, and a ragged
sheep-skin above formed a soft seat for the rider.
The only store that the veteran appeared to carry,
besides his ammunition, was a large skin of pulque
suspended from the horns over one side of the
bull's curly head. The whole costume of the man
and beast was so singular that I made a sketch of
them, at which the old fellow was highly pleased.
Oct. 24. — Settingout at the earliest dawn we pass
ed through several extensive fields of small ill-look
ing barley, which men and women were gathering.
Before us lay the remarkable volcanic mountain of
Malinchi*; its summit partially covered with snow,
and the base enveloped in dense gray clouds,
amongst which numerous little dark volcanic cones
* Called also the "Volcan" or " Cerro de Tlascala."
M 2

164 PLAIN OF BUENA VISTA.
reared themselves around their mighty mother.
As we advanced, the crops of barley improved in
extent and appearance, and large tracts of the
plain were covered with numerous herds of cattle.
In four leagues we reached the Hacienda of Buena
Ventura, where we made our breakfast on a log
by the road side, as an excuse to drink of the
pulque for which this place is deservedly cele
brated. The Administrador very obligingly took
us into the store of this national luxury, where we
saw large square hides suspended by their four
corners from strong posts, and containing the ma
guey juice in its various states of fermentation,
The Hacienda derives from 4000 to 5000 dollars a
year by the sale of pulque on the premises, to peo
ple who trade in it to Mexico. It is carried there
in goat or sheep skins, each of which holds four or
five Arobas *, and two constitute the cargo of an
ass ; this grave animal having the honour of carry
ing the favourite beverage, to the total exclusion of
horses and mules. It is here sold at one dollar
* The Aroba is 251bs.

PLAIN OF BUENA VISTA. 165
for five Arobas; but in Mexico the price is higher,
and a duty is paid on every ten Arobas. The
usual time required here to perfect or ripen the
pulque is twenty days; when all fermentation
(which is kept up by frequent additions in the first
few days) has ceased, and it is sufficiently strong
to bewilder the brain. A league beyond Buena
Vista lies the fine Hacienda of Sultepec, which be-*
longs to the same proprietors. Passing along the
plain of Buena Vista, and leaving a village of the
same name on our left, in three leagues and a half
we ascended a small rugged hill and passed through
the village of Tlangatepec, where the " Colectu-
ria," a large building, stands on the right of the
rise, and the meson from its exterior promised
but little internal comfort. Our road now lay
across an uninteresting plain, over which a great
number and variety of hawks were soaring in quest
of a small burrowing animal of the marmot tribe,
called " Tusa," which is very abundant ; and, as
well as the burrowing owl, a small mottled bird
excavates the ground so extensively, that horses

166 HACIENDA OF SAN DIEGO.
will sometimes plunge knee-deep into the hollows.
We also saw a few hares, and some quails of a
very diminutive size. In one league and a half
we passed the Hacienda of Ecatepec, beyond
which a species of dwarf cypress becomes very pre
valent in a country broken by masses of tufa, and
deep ravines hollowed out by the rains. In two
leagues, the ground became more even and grassy
around the Hacienda of Piedras Negras; from
whence, having Malinchi on our right, we passed
through abrupt gulleys and ravines now dry and
sandy, but in one of which a waggon of the Real
del Monte 'transport party, containing thirty-six
hundred weight of iron, was washed away by the
rains ; nine mules were drowned, and several men
escaped with great difficulty. All the channels
centre in a broad and flat sandy water-course, on
one side of which we reached the Hacienda of San
Diego, and lodged for the night in its meson.
Oct. 25. — As we rode out in the clear twilight,
our attention was arrested by a loud chorus of
voices, and passing the gates of the Hacienda we

PLAINS OF HUAMANTLA. 167
saw sixty or seventy Indians, bareheaded and
standing in a line, singing, not unharmoniously,
the morning hymn to the Virgin. We remained
uncovered by them while their chaunt continued,
after which they entered the gates to commence
their daily labour. The simple and sincere devo
tion of these poor people was far more imposing
than all the gorgeous processions and. church fes
tivals, and it was impossible to hear this hymn
without fully participating in their feelings. Be
yond San Diego, the road enters on the deep
sandy plains of Huamantla, a considerable town
about a league to the southward, celebrated for
thieves and for its extensive contraband trade in
the tobacco of Orizaba. A number of Haciendas
are scattered over the plains, and agriculture is
much attended to. Daybreak afforded us a scene
which I sketched, with a full consciousness of my
inability to do it justice, but in the faint hope that
some artist would fill up my slight outline. Ma
linchi, at whose foot we were travelling, lay to the
southward of us, shrouded in a cold gray mist,

168 PLAINS OF HUAMANTLA.
which at first obscured even its lofty peak; but long
ere a clear light shone upon us, the first rays of
the morning sun struck upon the extreme pinna
cle of its snow-clad summit as it glistened like a
star above the dark zone of clouds beneath ; the
wide sloping base lay in deep shade covered with
black forests, while the more immediate land was
clothed by large tracts of waving barley. To the
west lay the conical offspring of the mountain, al
most black with their woods and the intensity of
shade ; while in the extreme distance behind them
Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, clothed in their
everlasting snows, shone like silver beneath the
bright morning ray which at this early hour could
alone strike on such lofty mountains. Heavy round
clouds filled the east and hid Orizaba from our
view, but the sight of it was not requisite to render
the morning dawn the most glorious I ever beheld.
E. S. E. from our outset we passed the small vil
lage of Guadalupe on a bare low hill, and all the
surrounding country was entirely under cultivation
as far as the eye could reach. This was the season of

VOLCANO OF ORIZABA. 169
harvest, when hundreds of men and women were
occupied in reaping the extensive tracts of barley ;
while here and there large parties of people were
busy ploughing. This operation is carried on differ
ently from the English process, a small space at a
time being completed by a number working close
together. In the extent of about an acre I count
ed thirty-three ploughs at work, drawn by oxen,
horses, mules, and asses. The soil here is dry
and sandy, and the roads in consequence execrable.
Water is procured only from deep wells, whence
it is raised by a mule in a small malacate. We
passed in their turns the Haciendas of Vasconcilla,
San Juan Bautista, and San Francesco, which
latter has a meson. While near this, the clouds
which had filled the S. E. broke almost suddenly,
and the volcano of Orizaba burst at once upon the
sight, degrading in an instant the intervening
mountains into insignificance. In three and a half
sandy leagues further, we passed to the right of
the Hacienda of Vireyes, where neither food nor
lodging were to be had, and then entered on the

170 CONE OF PIZARRO.
extremely level plain of Tepeagualco; in some
places deep in clay, in consequence of the recent
rains, and in others abundantly covered with the
efflorescence of the muriate and carbonate of soda.
The plain was dangerously excavated by tusas
and owls, which with rattle-snakes are said to
abound here, but the rawness of the day was un
favourable for seeing any of them on their ram
bles. The high isolated and picturesque cone of
Pizarro terminates the view over the plain, and
in four leagues and a half we reached its foot, to
the left of which lies the town of Tepeagualco.
We did not enter it; but having taken pulque and
tortillas at a Rancho on the plain, passed round
the southern foot of Pizarro, where pumice-stones
of many varieties of colour, in large detached
masses and extensive broken beds of tufa, are
very abundant. In three leagues we passed the
small Hacienda of Sta Gertrudes, from whence, al
though our animals were sadly tired, we determined
on pushing for Guatepec, a Hacienda and depot
of the Real del Monte Company. Soon after leav-

GUATEPEC. 171
ing Sta Gertrudes, we passed several low ridges of
lava and tufa, very slightly covered with Tunas
and Yucca trees. It is a wild rugged spot, and ce
lebrated as the favourite resort of robbers, parti
cularly in the time of the celebrated Gomez *, a
party of whose people murdered Mr. Crawfurd, an
American gentleman travelling with Captain Mur
ray of H. M. S. Valorous, and afterwards robbed
and bound every one in company (1823). Long
after dark, in three leagues we reached Guatepec,
having travelled about twenty-two leagues and
been fourteen hours on horseback.
* The. enormities committed by this monster in human
shape are scarcely to be paralleled in the histories of the
most barbarous savages. He was, while chieftain of an un
usually cruel band of robbers, invited to join the Spanish army
during the Revolution ; and accepting their service, distin
guished himself by his bravery and ferocity ; when affairs as
suming a different aspect, he quitted the Royalists in order to
engage in a more lucrative profession, by returning with aug
mented forces to his old occupation. He now robbed equally
friends and foes, which last he chose to consider the now fall
ing Spaniards, on whom he committed every refinement of
cruelty, mutilating them in a manner too shocking to describe,
and killing them by lingering torments. The Republicans,

172

GUATEPEC

Oct. 26. — The Hacienda of Guatepec is situated
on the plains at the foot of Perote, which a clear
morning enabled me to see with its remarkable
" Cofre" to great advantage. This, as I learnt
from a gentleman who ascended it, is a rock of
about fifty feet in height, and so precipitous that
it can only be climbed on one side and at consi
derable risk. Its similitude to a square chest has
obtained it the name of Cofre. The mountain is
clothed nearly to its summit by dark forests of
firs ; and its height, according to Humboldt, is
whose views he in some degree assisted, at length remonstrated
with him on the cruelty of shedding so much blood, — to avoid
which he buried his victims alive ! and sometimes, to prolong
the torment, with their heads just above ground ! ! When
the Spaniards were driven out, all men became his prey, and
he became master of the road from Mexico to Vera Cruz. At
length, when his villanies had exceeded all bounds, he was
taken prisoner, and as a punishment was exiled ! to California,
where he soon raised an army of Indians and desperate men ;
and when I was in Mexico, news arrived that he was devas
tating the coast of the Gulf, burning, robbing and murdering,
and threatening an advance into the interior, which created
great alarm ; as, should he reach any of the wavering and
discontented North-western provinces, and be joined by any
large force, the country would be in danger.

MINES OF SOMALHUACAN. 173
13,416 feet, and 1260 feet more elevated than the
Peak of Teneriffe. Having settled that my mules
should go forward on the morrow to the village of
Las Vigas, about five leagues to the eastward, I
accompanied Mr. Exter on a visit to the Mines of
Somalhuacan, which he directed for the " Mexican
Company." In a league to the eastward we passed
through the neat little village of Perote, about
three quarters of a mile from the fort of the same
name, in which is a military school, a manufactory
of musquets, and a depot of stores. It stands on
an open plain, but could be easily approached, or
at all events, its supplies, particularly of ammuni
tion, which, oddly enough, is stored in two maga
zines near Gualtepec, could be cut off.
Turning to the north-east, we passed through
the hamlet of Sierra Leone, and entered a forest
of pines, where a cold thick mist bewildered us,
until we found a boy who became our guide to the
mines, by an Indian road even more precipitous and
difficult, if possible, than the descent to the Corral
at Madeira. We led our horses downwards for

174 MINES OF SOMALHUACAN.
four hours, the rain and fog rarely permitting a
view of twenty yards in extent ; yet we could easily
observe how continually our narrow slippery path
skirted the edge of precipices, or wound at the
foot of immense basaltic columns, from which
heavy cascades were tumbling into the abyss be
neath. We could not have descended less than
3,000 feet, when we arrived at the depths of the
Barranca, and crossed by rude alpine bridges
over impetuous torrents, surrounded by the most
luxuriant shrubs and trees. By a short path we
reached the little village of Somalhuacan, of which,
from the lateness and obscurity of the evening, we
could see nothing, although as the night advanced
the sky cleared, and a brilliant moon discovered
to us that we were in a bowery valley closely hem
med in on all sides by immense precipitous moun
tains. Oct. 27. — The following morning was delight
fully clear, and we set out at an early hour to
visit the establishments of the mines; which, though
at this period in a backward state, can be easily

MINES OF SOMALHUACAN. 175
and not expensively extended to the greatest ad
vantage. The copper, which is the chief produc
tion, has only been picked out in holes or burrows
from the face of the dizzy cliffs, and is so abundant
that the place may be aptly called " Virgin
ground." The whole of these rocks abound in
metals ; and the little excavations made by those
who have worked for gold, and the larger open
ings for the extraction of copper, appear from
beneath like the aeries of so many sea-birds in the
bold precipices above. Veins of gold have at times
been found here, and have made the fortune of
those who explored them : but the chief produce is
in those coppers distinguished in Cornwall by the
name of yellow ore. A quantity had already been
smelted by the rude native process, and was said to
contain a considerable " ley " of gold. Silver ore
has also been found in small quantities, but of in
ferior quality, and has never been worked. We
ascended by a hazardous path up an abrupt cliff
to the mine of Santa Cruz, situated immediately
above ohe of the torrents which rushes from the

176 MINES OF SOMALHUACAN.
mountains. Its wide rugged mouth opens to the
precipice, and the workings go no further than a
large chamber-like excavation, where the rich
yellow ore, unmixed with foreign substances, is
two varas in thickness.
The lode dips to the south, and, in common with
the greater number of those in the barranca, runs
across the valley from east to west. This place is
but three-quarters of a mile from the village ; and
if attended to, may be of very great value. The
present defect is, the insufficient means for transport
ing the ore to the Hacienda. — I next visited several
other points at which works have been commenced,
and all with equal promise : in fact, the metal is so
abundant as to be seen cropping out of the rock
even on the common pathways near '.' Santa Cruz,"
where also a very hard and heavy kind of iron
stone is to be found. The Barranca, without even
excepting the Corral of Madeira, is one of the most
magnificent objects I have ever seen. Abundant
mountain streams fall into it in every direction,
and two rapid rivers join in a common stream

VALLEY OF SOMALHUACAN. 177
near a Hacienda partially completed. One of
these, which runs from the north-west, is impreg
nated with salt, and the other, rushing from the
southward, is quite fresh. On joining, they run to
the N.N.E. where the ravine opens and discovers
a range of bold distant mountains. This in fact
is the direction of the whole barranca, which is
about half a mile in width. The village is small
and ruinous, but will now speedily improve in
comparison to what it formerly appears to have
been, when prior to the revolution the metals were
worked. Here the bounty of Nature, in the ex
treme luxuriance of its vegetable productions,
vainly invites the lethargic peasant to bestow the
most moderate portion of labour, which would bless
him with abundance of delicious fruits and vege
tables; yet, with the exception of a little maize
and some pompions, I saw nothing under cultiva
tion. The maize was the finest I had seen, hav
ing stalks fourteen feet in height, abundantly fur
nished with ears of grain (Helotes), in which, I was
informed, a minute and very venomous snake is
VOL. II. N

1 78 VALLEY OF SOMALHUACAN.
sometimes found secreted. Here the delicious
" Chiramoya " flourishes in a wild state ; roses are
absolutely a weed; and among some neglected
peach-trees in full blossom I saw an immense
orange-tree covered with fruit. Tobacco is an un
regarded weed ; the Tunas masas, an excellent fruit,
is very abundant. Further down the warm bar
ranca, the pure Indians, who are always more in
dustrious than the half Creoles, cultivate with little
labour all the tropical fruits, with the exception
of the pine-apple; and the botanist who wades
through the wild and almost too luxuriant vege
tation which chokes the depth of the valley, will
never regret the troubles of the descent to such a
place. The breadth and freshness of the leaves
is quite peculiar : that of the castor-oil plant ac
quires a great width ; and the foliage of the two
gigantic weeds named " Mala muger " and " Mai
hombre," equals that of the Yam in size and bril
liancy. Notwithstanding the inviting appearance of the
flowery wilderness at this place, it is a singular

VALLEY OF SOMALHUACAN. 179
fact that birds are seldom (indeed I was told,
never,) seen so low down as the village of Somal-
huacan, although a few hundred feet up the moun
tain they are found in as great abundance as else
where. The temperature being high, reptiles of
every sort abound. The tarantula acquires an
enormous size, and scorpions are very numerous.
The surrounding mountains rise in a succession of
ranges, of the grandest and most imposing forms,
and there is scarcely one in sight from the valley
which does not present columnar cliffs of basalt
or porphyry, resting in many instances on strata of
sand, limestone, or other minerals : the geologist,
in an hour's walk, would be here enabled to form
a most interesting and diversified collection. The
mountains, notwithstanding their steepness and
the boldness of their cliffs, are clothed with im
mense oaks, having forty or fifty feet of their
straight trunks unincumbered by branches; by
gigantic planes, beech, and sycamore trees, and
superb towering pines. Having passed a morn
ing I shall not easily forget, we took leave of
N 2

180 VALLEY OF SOMALHUACAN.
Mr. Exter, and began the ascent of the moun
tains by another path than that by which we de
scended. In many places the animals actually
ascended by the trunks of trees, formed as steps,
puttmg to proof the strength of eyes and nerves of
those who ventured to look into the valley. As
we slowly travelled upwards from the depths, the
woods became enlivened by the bright blue jay ;
and we heard the shrill discordant cries of the
large gaudy Lories, (called "Guacamalla" and
" Papagayo,") which here abound.
Nothing could possibly exceed the magnificence
of the ever-varying scenery through which we pass
ed; and on reaching the summit, (S.W. by W. of
the mines,) after two hours and a half severe labour
to our horses, we espied to the northward, on an
airy pinnacle about 2000 feet above Somalhua-
can, a small village named Pueblo Nuevo, whose
inhabitants are occupied in the culture of maize on
the table land near them. We came out on an
irregular plain, covered with tall thin pines, and
enveloped, as on our descent, in a thick fog. In a

LAS VI GAS. 181
few miles ride we reached the high-road from
Perote to Xalapa, near La Cruz Blanca, and
soon crossed a small bridge over the stream of
Rio Frio, at which the paved " Calzada " com
mences. It does not seem to have made one foot
more progress since the time when seen by the
Baron de Humboldt. We shortly after reached
the village of Las Vigas, five leagues to the east
ward of Perote, where I found my cargoes already
arrived. On entering the village we saw a man
carrying game-cocks to the Mexican market, each
lodged in a separate round basket, and so arranged
that no one bird could see his neighbour. The
baskets were hung on two frames, each carrying
twelve, and lashed at the top, so that the bearer
walked beneath them, looking like a moving shed
thatched with poultry. The houses of Las Vigas
reminded me forcibly of the Swiss cottages, as they
were entirely constructed of the trunks of pines,
covered in by Tajamanil ; and the general appear
ance of the long scattered village bespoke more
comfort than I had been accustomed to see on the

182 LAS VIGAS.
road. A dense fog set in towards evening; and
Las Vigas has the reputation of being seldom with
out one, from causes which Humboldt has so
clearly demonstrated while speaking of Xalapa *.
Oct. 28. — We had a delightful morning ; and a
tremendously heavy bill from our host the Al
calde, who, pious man ! was building a chapel at
the cost of himself and his visitors. Three heavy
waggons had stopped here, on their way from the
coast to the mines of Tlalpuxahua ; and after the
confusion of harnessing nine kicking mules to each,
I was much amused by the gravity of the " Tronco"
(or wheel postillion) of that which led. He had been
most vociferously abusive; but on mounting, devout
ly signed the cross over the ears of his mules, say
ing, " En el nombre de Dios todo poderoso, que no
nos hare dano, sube yo f." To this the " Guia "
* " Unfortunately, about 4264 feet is the mean height to
which clouds ascend above the plains adjoining the sea, from
which circumstance these temperate regions situated on the
declivity (for instance, the environs of the city of Xalapa) are
frequently enveloped in thick fogs." — Humboldt.
f " In the name of God, who is all-powerful, who will de
fend us from harm, I mount."

LAS VIGAS. 183
(or leader) replied, on swinging himself in to his seat
and crossing a countenance of a brassy hue from
the recent effects of yellow fever, " Y yo en el
nombre de San Francisco*," — an invocation much
more frequent than that to the Deity, who, as I
have already remarked, is considered in a very se
condary degree of veneration. We at length set
out over the broad paved causeway which con
tinues to Xalapa, enlivened by Indians, travellers,
and immense requas of laden mules. For two
leagues our road lay through a country covered
with the black bubbled scoriae of lava, bearing the
usual name of " Mai Pays," and which, in the lapse
of centuries, had acquired sufficient soil amongst
its clefts to nourish a little wilderness of shrubs :
amongst these the castor-oil plant was very flou
rishing. The Escoba bush, also abounding in
Real del Monte, under so different a climate, is
here very common. On approaching the Cerro
de San Miguel, from whence in clear weather
the sea may be discerned, we were sorry to observe
* "And I, in the name of St. Francis."

1 84 XALAPA.
a dense range of clouds floating over the land in
that direction ; yet beneath them we could perceive
the Tierra Caliente glowing in yellow radiance, far
to the eastward. In four leagues from Las Vigas
we passed through the little village of San Miguel ;
and in two leagues further, that of Bandarilla, en
livened by a party of men lassoing cattle on a little
plain, and leading them off tied with a long rope,
one to the tail of each patient horse. On one side
of the road, a large and valuable heap of iron
pumps and large machinery, of one of the mining
companies, was lying, quite secure from plunder
by their great weight; and on the other, was a
house or shed full of wheels and lighter stores,
apparently unguarded and at the mercy of every
traveller. Half a league further, and about a mile
to the left of the road, is the Hacienda of Lucas
Martin, once a depot of the Real del Monte Com
pany's stores. In another league, on entering
Xalapa, I paid the " Piage," or turnpike duty, of
two reals for each laden or saddled animal, and
eight dollars for the waggon, after which we en-

XALAPA. ] 85
tered the town ; and in the " Callejon del dia
mante," the dirtiest and most disreputable street in
the place, put up at the Meson kept by a man
named Francesquini, and which, although not par
ticularly sweet, and very expensive, possesses the
merit of having regular waiters and good cookery,
in addition to the most active and indefatigable
race of fleas I ever encountered, even in the repub
lic of Mexico.
Oct. 29. — I now became the daily guest of my
kind friend Colonel Dashwood, Consul for Vera
Cruz ; — since, as I learnt by letters from the coast
that no vessel was lying there, either for England
or the United States, I saw no necessity for hasten
ing to the Tierra Caliente, and braving the yellow
fever. Oct. 30. — With Colonel Dashwood as my guide
I commenced my rambles about the beautiful en
virons of Xalapa ; and we this morning strolled to
the Chorro de San Pedro, a shady delicious dell,
where we saw several women washing clothes in
small tanks or basins, into which flowed clear little

186 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI
weeds more so. No taste was displayed in the
laying-out the ground, which was irrigated from a
large tank. I here saw the Grana, or Cochineal,
in great abundance on some plants of Tuna, but
it was never collected either for sale or use.
June 6. — We were so late in arranging our car
goes that we could not set out, as I had intend
ed, for Zacatecas ; and in the evening we rode to
the Sanctuario de Nuestra Seiiora de Guadalupe,
which is situated at a short distance from the town.
An old lady, with an enormous goitre, introduced
us to the church, where the Padre, her brother,
sat praying with amazing volubility; and we walked
about as we pleased, admiring the neatest temple
we had seen, ornamented entirely in white and
gold, and having few other pictures than those im
mediately relating to the Virgin of Guadalupe,
whose legend is painted on the compartments
round the dome. Her story has often been told
by Mexican travellers, but I shall still give my
version of it, after I shall have described my visit
to her church near Mexico.

TO ZACATECAS. 187
We were afterwards treated with cigars, choco
late, and politics, in which, as far as related to the
disturbances in this country, the Padre showed
himself well versed, having during the revolution
headed a party of seventy Rancheros" near Leon,
who destroyed 450 regular Spanish infantry. I
afterwards heard that our friend, at that time the
Padre of Saltos de Barra, had been one of the
most active of the many priests who took up
arms against the Spaniards. Before leaving the
Sanctuario he treated us with a view of San Luis
from one of the high turrets, and waited patient
ly while I attempted a sketch of this most beauti
ful prospect I found that Flores was still too ill
to travel, and therefore left him behind, hiring an
other man to attend my horses.
June 7. — We quitted San Luis at 6 a.m. having
sent forward the greater part of our luggage by
Arrieros, and rode four or five miles over a plain
thickly planted with maguey, from which the town
is supplied with pulque. We met several of the
natives with their donkeys laden with jars of this

188 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI
favourite liquor, and drank some sweet and recent
from the plant. At about three miles from San
Luis on the road to Zacatecas, the view on look
ing back upon the town is very beautiful. We
soon exchanged the smooth road for a stony one,
and ascended the Cerros of " San Miguel Mis-
kitiki," over which the travelling was as rough as
it was possible to be. The rocks were of porphy
ry, chiefly of a red colour, and coated abundantly
by beautiful mammellated chalcedony, which with
fragments of jasper lay in great quantities in the
road. In five leagues we descended a gorge in
the mountains, and came suddenly on the retired
romantic little village of San Miguel Miskitiki, si
tuated in a deep rocky glen and half hidden by its
flourishing trees. A mountain stream of very clear
water runs through the ravine, and is crossed by a
small picturesque bridge of two arches. Leaving
San Miguel we came to higher ground with a flat
ter and better road, and at a quarter after one ar
rived at the Hacienda " La Parada," ten leagues
from San Luis. The land is here extensively cul-

TO ZACATECAS. 189
tivated, and in many places requires to be watered
by irrigation from a large tank, in which I found
several wild ducks and a very small species of
diver. There is a kind of village and a church
here, and we obtained lodging in a Meson, which
according to custom in this country afforded no
thing but shelter, water, and one small candle
which is always given to the guests without extra
charge. June 8. — Thermometer 57°. At seven we start
ed over a pretty good road, but a parched-up dusty
country, thinly clothed with mimosa bushes, the
maguey, and tuna. I here first saw a humming"
bird, which flew off before I could approach it.
Hares and partridges were very abundant, and I
killed some for our dinner. On the road we met
a coach drawn by eight mules, and having eight
others running before it, guarded by a dozen odd-
looking soldiers. Before noon we passed a small
Rancho crowded with fine cattle, where we stopped
for a time at a hut, and found a most excellent
breakfast of fried pork and onions, milk and tor-

190 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI
tillas, all which had been prepared for a Ranchero.
We left the poor man nothing but the empty
dishes, and the reals we had paid for his breakfast.
At one, after having passed over a plain thickly
covered with maguey, we came to an establish
ment for making Vino Mescal. This is an ardent
spirit distilled from the heart of the maguey, which
being deprived of its leaves to the very bottom of
the root is well bruised and boiled; it is then
placed in immense leather bags suspended from
four large stakes, and allowed to ferment, with the
addition of pulque and the branches of a shrub
called " Yerba Timba" to assist the fermentation.
These leather bags each hold about two tuns. The
liquor when sufficiently prepared is baled from
them to the still, which is inclosed in an immense
staved and hooped vessel, like an overgrown cask,
from whence the distilled spirit flows by a spout
made of a maguey leaf. This stands over a sub
terraneous fire, and the cooling water is contained
in a large copper basin, which fits into the top of the
cask and is removable at pleasure. The "Vino Mes-

TO ZACATECAS. 191
cal" is then stored in entire bullock's hides, of which
we saw a room quite full, and their appearance re
sembled a quantity of cattle hung up by the hocks
and deprived of the feet, head, and hair. Each of
these would, I conceive, hold about two pipes, and
they had a spout in the lower end formed from the
skin of the neck. When struck by the open hand
they gave forth a jingling sound as if containing
glasses. The Vino Mescal is sent to the market in
goat-skins, of which we saw some milk-white ones
lying inflated in readiness ; and not far from the
house was aflock of many thousand goats of thepurest
white, with a quantity of brood mares and fine cattle.
The conductor and some of the other people gave
evidence of the strength of the commodity which
they manufactured, for they were half-drunk, very
smoky, and extremely dirty. But we were surprised
in the midst of this scene by the apparition, from a
little mud hut where the men resided, of a young
girl of about thirteen, perfect in beauty and figure,
and as fair as a European. At four we reached the
Hacienda of El Espiritu Santo (The Holy Ghost).

192 FROM SAN LUIS POTOSI
These are startling appellations to an English ear,
but in this most Catholic country they are quite com
mon. At Tampico there is "The shop of the Deity;"
in San Luis, " The Holy Trinity ;" while " The
Divinity," " Jesus Christ," and other sacred titles,
are designations for drinking-houses and the mean
est shops. The fields at the Hacienda were in the
highest state of cultivation, surrounded by good
walls ; and here we saw the first field of wheatr
quite ripe for the sickle. There are large ponds
dammed up in the valley by " Presas," or walls,
of excellent masonry, well plastered and white
washed ; and the village of the Hacienda display
ed a neatness and air of good management rarely
to be seen in Mexico. The Hacienda abounds in
fine cattle, horses, and mules. In the lagoon we
saw numbers of ducks, and a white heron. The
prosperity of this place is attributed to the owner
having armed his people in defence of his property
during the devastating revolutionary war ; and its
contrast with some Ranchos which we had passed
on our day's ride was very striking. There we

TO ZACATECAS. 193
saw the houses roofless and in ruins blackened by
fire, and had ridden over plains still bearing faint
traces of the plough ; but the Rancheros who had
tilled the ground had been murdered with their
whole families during the war. In the space of
forty miles we passed no fewer than fifteen crosses
set up at the road-side, to mark the spot where an
assassination had been committed, and to claim
the traveller's prayers for the soul of the unfortu
nate victim. This part of the road was still con
sidered unsafe; we therefore took the precaution
not to separate from each other, and carried our
arms in readiness. We lodged in a very good
Meson, having its rooms on two sides of a large
court, in which we found a convoy of 130,000 dol
lars on their way to the coast, guarded by half-a-
dozen ill-looking ragged soldiers, with ineffective
muskets, and horses which could scarcely support
themselves *.
June 9. — We set out at seven over a dusty but
excellent road, through the same barren unin-
* Our journey had been fourteen leagues.
VOL. I. O

194 SALT-WORKS.
teresting country, destitute of water, and bound
ed by distant mountains. Here the whirlwinds
were very numerous and troublesome. In the
course of our ride we saw several wild deer and
some very small humming-bird*. On this day we
passed the cairns of three murdered persons ; and
having ridden ten leagues, arrived soon after noon
at the Government salt-works and Hacienda of Las
Salinas, where we obtained a room in the Meson
of "Jesus of Nazareth." The Hacienda contains
about five hundred persons, and is situated on an
arid plain, near which are the marshes whence salt
in an impure state is procured. This is consumed
in great quantities at the " Haciendas de Plata *" of
the mining establishments, where it is used in the
process of amalgamation. There is a military es
tablishment and barrack here, inclosed within ex
tensive walls pierced with loop-holes for musketry,
and surrounded by a ditch, of about ten feet in
depth and as many in width, cut in the solid lime-
* The place where the ores are reduced, and the pure
metal extracted.

SALT-MARSHES. 195
stone. A hundred Royalist soldiers garrisoned this
place during the wars ; and it was never once taken
by the insurgents, although there was much fight
ing on the plain. The houses here are built of
sun-dried bricks, of a much whiter and better qua
lity than any I had before seen.
Saturday (June 10). — Leaving Las Salinas at se
ven, we rode over the swamp, which was covered by
a brittle crust, and examined some heaps of the salt
collected for sale. They were of the second gather
ing, called " Saltierra," and so blended with earth
that their quality was only perceptible by the taste.
This is sold at four reals the Fanega* (bushel), but
"La Primera Flor" (the first efflorescence, or "Sal
Blanca") is from three to three and a half dollars
the fanega. It is conveyed to the Hacienda at the
Veta Grande in cars drawn by bullocks, generally
at the rate of three reals the fanega. As the Sa-
lina extends three miles in length and one and a
half in width, it is natural to suppose that the
* This is the same measure as is used in Spain, and is
equal to 1-599 English bushels.
o 2

196 XALAPA.
men, cavalry and infantry, are constantly stationed
in the town ; but their barracks are in the suburbs.
The Xalapa washing has been much praised ;
and I can testify, at least, for its dearness, and the
success of the women in thumping off all the shirt-
buttons which remained after my seven months'
campaign in the country. There are two public
places set apart for washing; the largest, named
Techacapa, has three long, roofed and commodious
buildings, supported on pillars, and open in all di
rections. Through these, a stream of fine water
runs continually on either side, at a convenient
height for the washerwomen ; and as the little
canal is divided into compartments, one for the
clothes, and another next it for the washing, it
of six months, which will give an idea of the great equality
in the range of the thermometer :
6 A.M. Noon. 8 P.M.
May  69° 73° 71°
June  67 70 69
July  68 72 69
August  68 72 70
September  65 68 68
October  62 65 64,

XALAPA. 1 97
is very clean and comfortable. The second place,
Jalitiquic, has but one house, at the foot of a little
cliff, surrounded and shaded by fine orange and
other picturesque trees.
I have already spoken of the markets, and but
little remains to be said of the trade. Xalapa in
the present day being merely a kind of resting-
place between Vera Cruz and Mexico, with little
commerce of its own, presents a striking contrast
to the time when, under the Spanish Government,
it was the emporium of the Atlantic trade. The
Spanish merchants, protected by the exclusion of
all foreign competitors, then sold at an exorbitant
price the produce of Europe ; and some of the most
splendid fortunes realized in New Spain, owe their
rise to the trade of Vera Cruz and Xalapa. The
poor Indian now finds within his reach and his
power of purchase, the luxuries and comforts
which his poverty once denied him ; and the abun
dance and cheapness of English linens, clothing,
and ornaments, now leads the natives to perceive
that there are other powerful nations, in addition

198 XALAPA.
to that of their persecuting conquerors. Xalapa,
however, possesses some very well-supplied shops,
and is famous for its commerce in medicinal jalap,
which is brought by the Indians from a Sierra
near the foot of Perote, where the plant, of which
it is the root, grows in great abundance. At this
period it was selling at about three quartillos,
(equal to four-pence halfpenny,) the pound. The
Indians who bring in the roots, and who are also
traders in fruits and vegetables, are a quiet, inof
fensive, unobtrusive race; differing materially in
dress and appearance from the aborigines of the
Northern States.
The habit of the men consists of a dark blue
woollen manufactured by themselves, and formed
into a kind of tunic with broad open sleeves, and
generally tied round the waist by a sash or cord.
They wear no shirts : and the other clothing is sim
ply a pair of short blue breeches, open at the knee.
Straw hats are worn by all ; and the back hair is
suffered to hang wildly over the shoulders, while
that in front is cut formally across the forehead.

XALAPA. ] 99
The women wear a coarse cotton shift with broad
open sleeves, and sometimes fancifully worked
about the neck in bright-coloured worsted ; petti
coats drawn in numerous gathers round the waist,
and very full below, of the blue woollen ; and a
blue or brown Reboso (or wrapper) of the same
material over the shoulders. Their hair is divided
into two long pigtails, generally interwoven with
bright scarlet worsted ; and it is the custom either
to tie the extreme ends of these ornaments toge
ther, and let them hang down the back, or to bind
them tightly round the head, which has a peculiar
and rather pleasing effect. These poor people are
a plain or even ugly race, and for the most part
clumsily formed ; which awkwardness of appear^
ance is increased by the habit of walking with
their toes turned in. The women work as con
stantly and laboriously as the men ; and both sexes
carry great burthens by the strength of the head
and neck, from whence the loads are suspended by
straps, so as to rest upon the loins, while the body
is in a very stooping posture.

200 XALAPA.
In Xalapa there are three churches. That of San
Francisco, with its monastery, was one of the ear
liest erected after the Conquest, as an inscription
mentions, by D. Luis de Alasco, in 1556. It is now
sinking into decay; a long crack appears in the
roof, and no efforts have been made to prevent its
extending still further. The building itself is in
teresting, and the ancient carving of some of the
shrines remarkable ; particularly the figures of the
Virgin, and some male saint dressed in the full
Spanish costume of the time of the Conquest.
There are now but three friars remaining, of the
mendicant Franciscans, attached to the monas
tery ; and their number, from the state of the times,
is not likely to be speedily increased.
I was fortunate in making the acquaintance of
one of these Padres, (an intelligent, worthy man,)
who had travelled over the greater part of Mexico ;
was intimately acquainted with the peculiarities of
its people, and well versed in the history of the
revolution, particularly where Iturbide, to whom
he was for some years chaplain, was concerned.

XALAPA. 201
He was a self-taught, well-read man, and, more
over, the author of several pamphlets, of which he
gave me copies of the last two, on subjects very
different from each other. One was " Manifiesto
sobre la Inutilidad de los Provinciales de las Reli-
giones en esta America *;" the other, "Explication
campesina sobre la Cria y Manejo de los Cabal-
losf ;" for, contrary to all order, he owned a wealthy
Hacienda, and was particularly choice in the breed
of his horses, of which I saw some very beautiful
ones. The name and title of my friend was " El
R. P. P. Fr. Juan Rosillo de Mier Cuautemoczin
Frayle del Orden de San Francisco."
The Parroquial, which stands on one side of the
Plaza del Mercado, must be considered as the
principal church ; and the simplicity of its internal
ornaments and architecture is very striking. It is
built on low arched aisles, and is also one of the
* " Manifesto on the Inutility of Provincial Clergy of va
rious Religious Orders in this America."
t " A country Explanation of the Method of breeding and
rearing Horses."

202 XALAPA.
early edifices of the country. I walked in on a
fast-day, when it was most fully and respectably
attended; and at the door a kind of religious ped
lar had erected his stand, from which he was sell
ing, very successfully, little gaudy rosaries and
crucifixes, and small lumps of blessed wax. San
Jose is the third church ; and there are two
chapels, one of El Calvario, the other of Santi
ago. In addition to these regular establishments,
there are two other religious houses : " El Beate-
rio," a female college, whence the young women
are allowed to marry ; and " San Ygnacio," which
is now building as a penitentiary for both sexes,
in separate establishments. Their admission and
discharge are voluntary; but they are received
only on the recommendation of the priests, who
exact a fee for the permission. A Lancasterian
school for 220 boys has recently been established ;
and there are two other boys' schools on the plan
of the country, each to contain 100, under the pro
tection of the Ayuntamiento. There is but one
school for girls. It is to be hoped that educa-

XALAPA. 203
tion will rapidly advance in this State ; for the
Congress has offered a salary of 2500 dollars
for a master in Xalapa school, and 3000 dollars
for one at Vera Cruz ; and has issued also
a general order, that every town in the State
should establish a Lancasterian school, the master
of which is to be paid by the municipality. There
is, besides, some idea of instituting a reading-room
and subscription library at Xalapa, after the ex
ample of Orizaba, which is, perhaps, the only town
in the whole Republic where such an establish
ment exists ; amusements of a literary nature not
being as yet in vogue among the families here.
Their only evening resource, except gaming and
music, is, parading in whole groups through the
streets, or on the most uninteresting spot near
Xalapa, called " The Verros ;" a low damp field,
without a single charm to recommend it. — My
impatience had now increased to the utmost, at
being detained in consequence of no vessel being
ready to sail from Vera Cruz. I determined,
therefore* on going down to the coast, that I might

204 LITERA.
feel myself as near as possible to dear distant En
gland. Nov. 7. — Resisting the kind invitations of Co
lonel and Mrs. Dashwood to prolong my stay, I
this day set out from the beautiful Xalapa. Passing
out of the town by the " Calle de la preciosa Sangre
de Christo *," which is inscribed in rude letters on
the house whence the younger Mr. Bullock took his
view of the town, we pursued our way over a
broad paved causeway in alitera, (such as is com
mon in Spain and Italy,) the most general convey
ance between Xalapa and Vera Cruz. The body
is mounted on two strong poles, secured in thick
leather straps to the peculiarly shaped saddles of
a pair of strong mules ; the one in front is led by
a man, mounted on a third mule on the off side ;
and the animal in the rear, as well as having its
halter fastened to the back of the litera, is kept to
its work by the whip of a driver, who has also
charge of two or three loose beasts, the carriers
being changed every four or five leagues. The
* Street of the precious Blood of Christ.

LITERA. 205
body of the vehicle is sufficiently long and broad
for the traveller to stretch out on a small mattress,
or to sit beneath the roof, which is supported on
little pillars, and inclosed at pleasure by light cur
tains. The motion soon ceases to be unpleasant
if the mules keep an equal ambling pace. Should
one of them trot, the effect is above all things dis
agreeable to the traveller who has just entered on
the Tierra Caliente, after a residence in the
milder and more elevated regions. In three
leagues, the thick wilderness of plants began to
diminish; and on a bare space we stopped at
" Encero," which not long since was a depot for
the transport stores of the Real del Monte Com
pany. Here we breakfasted, and were joined by
five other literas, conveying a native family to
Vera Cruz. They travelled with most amusing
pomp, monopolizing all the provisions and atten
tion of the people at the little Mesons and shops
on the road ; noticing me occasionally by a con
descending nod, as I was making my meals on
what they refused, having heard that I was a poor

206 PLAN DEL BIO.
discharged miner from a broken Company, who
was finding his way to England. Two leagues
beyond Encero is the Rancho of Coral Falso,
where is a building resembling a signal-post. Here
the Petaya or Organo began to appear amidst
thickets of varied mimosas. The sugar-cane is
cultivated not far from the road side, and oaks are
no longer seen. The country very rapidly as
sumes a tropical character, and near Cerro Gordo
slight bamboos begin to abound. The huts are
formed of them, attached to light frames in the
same manner as those at Tampico and the river
Panuco. Heavy rain and a fresh breeze had
taught me the discomforts of a litera under such
circumstances; for the wet streaming curtains
flapped continually in my face, and my bedding
was completely soaked through. At four leagues
and a half from Encero, we stopped and dined at
Plan del Rio, where a pretty bridge is erected
across a small and at this time beautifully transpa
rent river, running over a rocky bed through a
picturesque Barranca, whose rich woods overhung

PUENTE DEL REY. 207
the stream on either side. On a rising woody
knoll is a small square fortress commanding the
dell, and which was used in the revolution. From
El Plan we ascended to a good unpaved road;
and with the exception of a short space, at
the ascent of Calera, it continued with us to
Puente del Rey, four leagues and a half further.
To the southward of Calera, and at a short di
stance from the road are said to exist a number of
Mexican idols, deposited there by the Indians on
their conversion to Christianity. An old man
who lives at the foot of Calera, and follows the oc
cupation of a hunter, can, it is said, give informa
tion about them.
We reached Puente del Rey* by the light of a
brilliant moon and stars, and I wandered out to
look at this stupendous work of the Spaniards. It
is a flat bridge, of the most perfect and solid ma
sonry, paved with the greatest nicety, and being
built at a bend of the river is slightly incurvated to'
suit the approaches. It crosses over a wild and deep
* Bridge of the King.

208 PUENTE DEL REY.
ravine, through which the rapid Rio Antigua (Old
River) tumbles impetuously among rugged rocks,
overhung by clusters of the fine shrubs and trees
peculiar to the Tierra Caliente. I did not la
ment the absence of day-light in visiting this beau
tiful place, where the effect of the silvery moon
light on rock, wood, and stream, was infinitely
grand and striking. To this picture may be added
the six literas, planted on the road, as the bed-
places of their employers, in front of a few scat
tered huts, all brightly illuminated and devoted to
the sale of food and refreshments for travellers.
At a short distance from the road were also to be
seen long heaps of bales, and rows of mule-sad
dles of requas, thus far on their way to the ca
pital; groups of muleteers, wild-looking but
merry fellows, cooking their suppers by little fires
on the ground ; others drinking, singing, gambling,
or flirting with the active shop-girls, who were all
bustle in attending to their customers.
Nov. 8. — We moved over the fine bridge at
four a. m. and found the road tolerably good for

PASO DE OVEJAS. 209
mules, but almost impassable for carriages of any
description until we reached Paso de Ovejas, where
a small bridge crosses a stream running through
a very pretty ravine. At about one mile and a half
to the right of the road on the N. E. side of the
valley, and a short walk from the Paso, some re
mains of an ancient Mexican city are still to be
found *. At the Paso and in its vicinity the huts are
thatched with the branches and leaves of a large
species of Palm, called by the natives " Palma de
Coso Real," and which I never observed in the
Tierra Caliente near Tampico. This tree seldom
acquires much trunk, but its graceful leaves are
of an immense size, and it produces a cluster of
round fruits, outwardly resembling green walnuts.
• These are situated on the edge of the plateau, above the
valley of Paso de Ovejas, and are of considerable extent. All
that remains are the traces of streets and inclosures, and an
assemblage of pyramidical elevations of earth and stones of
various sizes, some of them forty feet in height. The frail
materials of which the houses were composed have entirely
disappeared. My state of health did not allow me to visit
this place, from which I understand the view to be magnifi
cent. VOL. II. P

210 MANANTIAL.
The hard outer pulp adheres to a small stone con
taining a sweet white kernel, something resem
bling our garden root " rampion" in flavour.
Thick underwood gives place in this neighbour
hood to small patches of plains, devoted to the pas
turage of brood mares and cattle, and the road
becomes extremely bad on descending La Bajada
de Toluma to a woody dell, from which rise a num
ber of verdant table-topped mounds. In a shady
hollow we passed over the pretty streamlet and
bridge, called Talon, whence a very muddy road
lay through a wilderness of palms and other grace
ful trees, of which we could only discern the tops,
the trunks being entirely hidden by the thick clus
ters of wild gourds and the festoons of bright pur
ple and pink convolvuluses. Large flights of par
rots, the chichalaca, and various kinds of doves,
whirled constantly past us in the shady road,
where we enjoyed all the beauties of the Tierra
Caliente without suffering from its oppressive
heat. On a small open space we breakfasted at
a few huts called Manantial, and then pursuing

VERA CRUZ. 2] 1
our pleasing route, arrived at the huts of Santa
Fe, so much abused by all travellers that arrive
in Mexico who visit the capital and return by
the same road. I feel it a charitable duty to this
contemned place to say, that its comforts are fully
equal to those afforded by some of the Villas
(towns) in the Northern States. From hence to
Vera Cruz is said to be three leagues ; and we
again plunged into the thickets, through muddy,
bad, and flooded roads. In two leagues more we
heard the breaking of the sea, and having emerged
from our shade and wound round a large sand
hill, descended to the beach, on which a few huts,
named Bengara, are situated. A strong norther
was blowing, and a heavy surf broke along the line
of coast, while the island castle of San Juan de
Ulua and a cluster of shipping beneath its walls,
with the city of Vera Cruz terminating the long
yellow line of sand, formed an extremely pretty
picture of about four miles in depth. — I had now
traversed the much-condemned route between
Vera Cruz and Mexico, by the way of Real del
p 2

212 VERA CRUZ.
Monte ; and from experience can affirm that it is
the most beautiful, most civilized, comfortable, and
convenient route in the whole of the Mexican Re
public. Let those who detract from it, take their
next trip to the interior via Tampico and Zaca
tecas, and then, having made the comparison, give
their opinion upon it.
We entered Vera Cruz in the afternoon ; and
while I was bribing the Custom-house officer from
my Litera, not to detain me by opening my portman
teaus, one of the soldiers of the guard very delibe
rately unstrapped my cloak from a led horse and
walked off with it ; but I afterwards recovered my
property, by the thief's offering to sell it to my own
servant, who was on his way to make inquiries.
I was conducted by the Litera-men to a nasty
Meson, — the worst in fact I had seen, which is
saying a great deal ; and reached a room without
lock, key, or window, by paths which I shall not
attempt to describe.
Nov. 9. — In the evening, however, my friends
procured me, for the following day, a room in the

VERA CRUZ. 213
only inn I had hitherto met with, and in which
was a coffee-room, a public table, and the first
civilized comforts I bad enjoyed out of a pri
vate house. I occupied my day in roaming about,
and met at dinner at Mr. Welsh's my friend
Captain Gosset of the Ferret, who had brought
the mail.
Nov. 10.' — My day was prefaced by the great
luxury of a bathe in the sea, in a spot entirely
protected from sharks. As the natives are not
much addicted to ablutions of any kind, they are
for the most part ignorant of the place. I there
fore, for the information of those who visit Vera
Cruz, think it but charity to give them notice
that this valuable spot is within the reef, and im
mediately beyond the northern Baluarte, or bat
tery, which flanks the city.
This morning I attended with several of our
countrymen the funeral of a young gentleman who
had just been carried off by the Vomito. He was
buried amongst some bushes in an open space to
the S. W. of the town, near the Campo Santo,

214 VERA CRUZ.
which could not, of course, afford repose to the
body of a heretic, and gives indeed but little
protection to those of the "true religion;" — a
peep through the ruined door discovering hun
dreds of whitened skulls scattered at random upon
the ground, while the usual troops of familiar
carrion vultures roam undisturbed amidst the
crumbling bones.
My earliest walk was generally to the Mole,
where a stranger can never fail of being interested
in watching the bustle and activity which pre
vails. Crowds of Negro porters are in constant
motion, discharging and carrying the cargoes of
boats to the Custom-house within the gates,
where a noisy concourse of cart-men are scram
bling and quarrelling for the chance of employ
ment; their pay, as well as that of the porters,
is very high, many of them earning five and six
dollars in a day.
The carts for the conveyance of merchandize
are on two wheels, with an enormous breadth of
axle, which gives them a clumsy and remark-

VERA CRUZ. 215
able appearance. They are drawn by three mules
abreast, the driver riding on the near one, which
has longer traces than its fellows, so as to allow
the man's right leg to hang before the end of the
shaft. Boats are as expensive as labour and carriage,
and in fine weather lie on either side the Mole,
from which a number of men and boys are con
stantly fishing, either with casting-nets or simple
rods and lines. They are generally very success
ful; and amidst the varieties of fish which I saw
taken, I remember the names of Mojarra, Rouco,
Barbudo, and Xurel, none of which possessed any
particular brilliancy of colour. I was not, in fact,
so fortunate as to see any of those "gems" of
the finny tribe, which I was led to suppose I
should have found in great abundance.
I one morning saw about 150 Presidarios,
or convicts, embarked from the Mole for Cam
peachy ; and whether from knowing them to be
culprits, or from their true appearance, I think
I never saw a more villainous set of faces : and

216 VERA CRUZ.
as some of them were very ill-clothed, their bare
arms, backs, and breasts, exhibited many scars
of the knife-fights, which are so common with the
class from which these prisoners had been taken.
I made some excursions entirely round the walls,
which so completely and closely surround the
town that the free circulation of air is impeded ;
and this must in a great measure increase, if not
create, the pestilence which annually commits such
havoc. The custom of leaving dead animals close
to the walls has in a great degree been discon
tinued ; yet some are at times found near the
roadways, attended during the day by numbers
of vultures, while at night their brother-scavengers
the coyotes (or jackals) come in for the remnant
of the feast, and their shrill yells and snarlings as
they revel in a body may be heard to a great di
stance. The south-western corner of the town, at
which the extensive barracks are situated, has suf
fered much from the attacks of the first insurgents
who took the place from the Spaniards ; and in
-return some batteries in that quarter have de-

VERA CRUZ. 217
stroyed a church, and a vast number of detached
buildings. The defensive sea wall has been much
battered by the shot of San Juan de Ulua ; and
two Baluartes, (or small round batteries,) at the
extremes, are absolutely shattered to pieces. The
Alameda, which is the only public walk, is a broad
pavement to the southward of the town, and from
the exposed state of the coast, or want of attention
of the natives, is unshaded by a single tree. Here
on Sundays and festivals the beauty and fashion
of Vera Cruz, who dress very gaily, and for the
most part as Europeans, are accustomed to assem
ble in great numbers.
About a mile to the southward of Vera Cruz is a
marshy and verdant tract, for which no one has
been just enough to give the place credit. The
country is here in many places covered with a
short sweet grass, sufficient for the support of a
number of cattle, and bearing bushes and small
trees of a healthy appearance.
The soil at this season was in most places
swampy ; and even in the parching heats of sum-

218 VERA CRUZ.
mer, water is said to abound. There are nume
rous spots in this green patch, on which excellent
gardens could be established ; and any industrious
and enterprising man, proof against the Vomito,
might easily rear more than sufficient vegetables for
the supply of the city and shipping. A long irre
gular morass or lake, of small depth and in many
places filled with tall rushes, lies immediately be
yond the ground of which I speak, and in it were a
party of men who hauled a small seine with consi
derable success, taking three kinds of fish ; the
Naquara, Guavina, and Xuile, as well as a remark
able species of fresh-water tortoise having three
elevated longitudinal ridges on its upper shell.
Of these amphibise there are other varieties, as
well as a few small alligators ; and great quanti
ties of aquatic birds make the lake their occasional
residence. On the water which flooded the shoaler
parts of the morass, through which I waded with
my gun, were large quantities of floating untenant
ed shells of the genera Ampullaria and Planorbis,
and I looked in vain for one with an animal in it.

VERA CRUZ. 219
On the side of a lofty sand-hill to the southward
of the swamp, are still to be seen the ruins of a
fortress or castle, said to have been the residence
of a certain Dona Beatriz, foundress of Vera Cruz *,
and inhabited by her, until the city was completed.
The lake, which supplies the town by means of an
aqueduct almost buried beneath the flat soil, is usually
termed " The Laguna," or " Los Cocos," and its
waters could easily be appropriated to irrigation on
its banks. While roaming about this place, I was
joined by an officer of the Ferret, who continued his
searchfor game after I had returned homeward: but
scarcely was I out of sight, when having fired at a
bird he immediately heard a ball from amongst the
tall rushes whiz past his head; and as he who shot it
was not to be seen, this gentleman very prudently
retired before a second attempt should be made upon
his life. It is remarkable that on a former occa
sion, a companion of this same officer was fired at
under similar circumstances.
* I have been unable to find the name of this lady in ei
ther Bernal Diaz, Clavigero, or Solis.

220 VERA CRUZ.
I was much pleased with the city, or, as it is
now termed in all official documents, " The He
roic -City" of Vera Cruz. Many of the houses
are excellent; its streets are straight and spa
cious; and were it somewhat cleaner, and re
paired from the devastating effects of the shot
and shells of the castle, would be a magnifi
cent place. The paving is very good, and every
street has a raised footway on each side, of a con
venient breadth and peculiar construction. A
ledge of cut stones bounds the intended path, and
the space between it and the houses is filled
with a fine cement of lime, sand, and shells, which
equals stone in hardness and durability, and even
acquires a polish from the feet of passengers.
Houses are extravagantly dear in their construc
tion and rent, which last, for the better sort, is ge
nerally 3000 dollars per annum. The building of
one of these is rarely accomplished under 100,000
dollars. This high price is owing to the scarcity
of materials ; the belt of sand which stretches be
tween the city and the interior preventing the

VERA CRUZ. 221
transport of stone or bricks ; every thing, there
fore, must come from the seaward *. The princi
pal article of construction is a porous white coral,
which composes the numerous reefs off the coast,
and is usually found in large rounded masses.
The houses of Vera Cruz are all flat-topped,
and covered with cement ; and however the streets
may be neglected, they are kept studiously clean,
as the receptacles for supplying rain-water to the
tanks or Algibes with which every house of conse
quence is furnished, and which hold sufficient water
for two or three years consumption. All the prin
cipal buildings have also a Mirador, or little watch
turret, on their roofs, from which a good view is
obtained and a fresher air inhaled. To these
places the members of families resort in the cool
of the evening ; and the anxious merchant hence
looks out upon the coming sail, which is announced
by the bell of the church of San Francesco tolling
* A number of squared blocks, of a yard each, of a very com
pact sandstone, which were lying near the Mole for its repair,
cost sixty dollars each.

222 VERA CRUZ.
five times, so that by this very judicious plan the
news is published to all the town.
The Plaza of Vera Cruz is small and not re
markable. On two sides it has Portales; — to the
east stands the Government-house, an old Moorish-
looking building ; and on the south is the Parro-
quial in a sad state of decay, but now undergoing
some repairs. Its interior possesses nothing of in
terest beyond a ghastly figure of the Saviour, paint
ed of a darker brown than any Indian, nay, almost
black, with immensely long hair, and almost dis
gustingly battered and bloody. Great merit was
formerly attached to this idol, but the Vera Cruz-
anos are now less credulous.
Off the S. E. corner of the Plaza is a neat little
fountain *, at the entrance to the Plaza de Verdu-
ras, where a tolerable market is held, in which on
every side I saw for the first time covered green
grocers' stalls. Cabbages are here sold by the
* It is generally supposed that Vera Cruz is almost desti
tute of water. This is not the case : it has abundance con
veyed to it by an aqueduct from the Lagoon ; but not being
of a wholesome quality, rain-water is generally used.

VERA CRUZ. 223
half or quarter, and a whole one of good quality
costs four reales * ; a large onion a medio f ; and
every other article of life in the same proportion.
There are hospitals for the sick, which I did not
visit, as the Vomito was still very prevalent, and
deaths were frequent ; and one or two declining
establishments of friars. A theatre, somewhat
smaller than any of those in our country villages,
is in progress of erection, and the Vera Cruzahos
promise to re-establish their city in its ancient
splendour. The population by a recent census
was 8000, to which may be added about 1000 sol
diers. The Presidarios, or convicts, are not in
cluded in this computation, as they may justly be
termed a fluctuating population, the poor wretches
dying in great numbers from the effects of hard
work, poor diet, and an unhealthy climate to which
they are unaccustomed J.
The trade of Vera Cruz has of late retrograded
most deplorably, owing to the excessive and inju-
* Equal to 2*. S'd. f About 3\d.
X They are usually from the internal provinces.

224 VERA CRUZ.
diciously imposed duties, which have obliged the
principal mercantile houses to revoke their orders
for shipment ; so that the very means which the
Mexican financiers have adopted in hopes of in
creasing the revenue, have most effectually and ir
remediably injured it.
Nov. 23. — Preparations which had long been
making for the celebration of the first anniversary
of the fall of the Castle of San Juan de Ulua were
on this day put in force. Salutes from the ships
and castle announced before daylight the joyful
event, and processions and fire-works were not
spared. The Plaza was occupied by a triumphal
Temple of Victory, and an artificial Castle of Ulua
was erected on the Mole, where it fell gloriously
under a heavy fire of squibs and crackers. Poor
General Barragan also formed part of the show,
and paraded through all the streets bearing a silk
flag, and attended by soldiers marching the ba
lance step.
Nov. 26. — Illness prevented my attending at all
the merry-makings, but I saw on the third and

VERA CRUZ. 225
last evening the closing scene : — " Vera Cruz Tri-
unfante," the " Heroic City *" being personated
by a young lady habited as a tragedy queen, sup
ported on one side by General Barragan in full
uniform, and on the other by a judge in a full suit
of court mourning.
The car in which the pretty little Genius of
Vera Cruz was to have passed through the streets
having been very ill made, she was robbed of half
the glory of her appearance, and obliged to walk,
preceded by two slaves f who were liberated for
the occasion, and dressed in white; these were
flanked by two little puppet-show children, one
personifying Mars, the other Mercury, but which
gay personages with their bright tinsel ornaments
were taken by some of the mob for San Pedro
and San Francesco. A band of music led the
van ; and a double line of about two hundred weil-
* Literally so expressed in all public documents.
t I was not aware until this period that a single slave, or
even permission to retain them, existed in the Republic of
Mexico ; but now learnt that there were some few in Vera
Cruz. VOL. II. Q

226 VERA CRUZ.
dressed people attended with large lighted wax
candles. Thirteen thousand dollars were at this festival
expended in fire-works and exhibitions ; while a
ruined mole, fallen batteries, unrepaired public
buildings, and unpaid troops, bespoke the poverty
of the State. But the good people of Vera Cruz,
and in fact all Mexicans, dearly love a show ; and
I must confess are the best regulated and most or
derly multitude on these occasions that I ever saw.
It is but natural and gratifying to a people who
have so recently burst their fetters, to exceed a
little in their demonstrations of joy ; and if they
had at this period been rather more humble in
their accounts of these great doings, more credit
would have attached to them *.
Nov. 30. — I drove in a " Volante f " to Mocam-
* The Gazettes teemed with nothing but the heroic ac
tions of the natives, and their prowess in taking Ulua (which,
had the garrison not been starved out, would never have sur
rendered) ; but above all, their military were compared, and
said to be equal to the Guard of Napoleon in their brightest
days, "or the scarcely less celebrated infantry of Prussia."
f This vehicle very much resembles the caleche of Malta,

VERA CRUZ. 227
bo Point, at which the weighty machinery of the
Real del Monte Company was landed in so mas
terly a manner by Mr. Colquhoun of the Royal
Artillery. Mocambo lies about four miles to the southward
of Vera Cruz, and is immediately opposite the
Island of Sacrificios, which before the period of
the Conquest was so celebrated for its temple and
numerous idols, many of which have of late been
discovered and sent to Mexico.
In the evening I was at an extremely well at
tended ball at the Government-house. The ladies
were prettily dressed, and the gentlemen had paid
much attention to their toilette. No smoking, by
either ladies or gentlemen, was permitted in the
ball-room, which was spacious, well lighted, and
very neatly furnished ; and the whole display was
extremely pleasing.
Dec. 1. — By the kind permission of General Bar-
and is supported on two enormously large wheels, which are
placed behind the body. It is drawn by three mules, on the
same plan as the carts which I before described.
o2

228 SAN JUAN DE ULUA.
ragan I visited the castle of San Juan de Ulua,
which is too well known for me to attempt a de
scription of it. The shot from the batteries of
Vera Cruz appear to have done it no injury ; and
its spacious works, immense water-tanks, and fine
position, cannot be too much admired. The sea-
approach is defended by several extensive reefs, but
the inner side opposite the city has deep water ;
and large brass rings are fixed into the walls as
moorings for men-of-war, which lie completely
sheltered from the tremendous " Northers." The
Mexican squadron commanded by Commodore
Porter lay at this time under the walls, and con
sisted of a frigate of thirty-two guns, a twenty-four
gun- brig, with two of eighteen, and some schooners.
Dec. 3. — On this day they moved to the Island
of Sacrificios preparatory to a cruize.
A convoy of a million and a half of dollars hav
ing recently arrived from the interior, the merchant-
vessels which had been waiting for freight had
now received them, and on the morrow I was to
sail, after having passed four anxious weeks at

RETURN TO ENGLAND. 229
Vera Cruz in waiting for a passage. During this
period the " Nortes" had been frequent and heavy ;
but notwithstanding their character of purifying
the air, the Vomito had by no means disappeared,
and several deaths had occurred amongst Euro
peans, or natives from the interior, who, it is said,
are more liable to this dreadful malady than fo
reigners. The temperature during the above time
was, with the exception of three or four hours in
the middle of the day, rather agreeable than other
wise. The average range of the thermometer was
from 86° to 92° ; but during the gales it usually
fell to 75°, which was considered as cold by many
of the long resident English, who astonished me
by closing their doors and windows, and in many
instances putting on warmer clothing.
Dec. 4. — On the 4th of December 1 embarked
in the United States brig Brown ; on the 23rd we
reached New York ; on the 24th I again sailed for
England in the packet ship Panthea ; and on the
14th of January was wrecked, in company with
H.M.B. Nimrod, at Holyhead, in the tremendous

230 RETURN TO ENGLAND.
hurricane which blew on that day. Most provi
dentially all hands were saved, after many anxious
hours' exposure; and with some difficulty and con
siderable personal danger I saved the dispatches
with which I had charged myself for Mr. Can
ning *. In four days more I was fortunate enough
to recover the papers of the Real del Monte Com
pany ; with this my unpretending journal, and my
drawings. Many papers and articles of value were
lost, notwithstanding the unceasing exertions of
many friends at Holyhead, whose hospitality and
kindness can never be forgotten by me.
* To Captain Hugh Evans, harbour-master of Holyhead,
I am deeply indebted for his humanity and gallantry in saving
myself and some others by means of his boat, veered from
the mole into the tremendous sea which was breaking over
the ship.

ACCOUNT OF THE INHABITANTS. 231

CHAPTER XII.
General Account of the Inhabitants — CreoleB — Rancheros or
Vaqueros (Herdsmen) — Arrieros or Muleteers — Indians —
State of Law — Laws relating to the Mines — Usual Food of
the Labouring Classes — Character of the People of the
Country — Dwellings — Manufactures — Amusements — Agri
culture.
Having been eight months in the Republic of
Mexico, it is almost requisite to offer some de»
scription of its inhabitants, who in many respects
may be considered as a very remarkable race of
people. The Creoles, or descendants of Europeans,
are by their circumstances the most eminent per
sons in New Spain, and, with the exception of those
engaged in active commerce, are an indolent, over
bearing, haughty race, who, with the ignorance
which the barbarous policy of Spain has entailed
upon them, have preserved also the most profound
contempt for the poor despised Indians ; and in fact

232 CREOLES.
for every orte without their own particular pale.
They .are, with some bright and gifted exceptions
.(whom, were it proper, I could enumerate with the
greatest pleasure), the least estimable people in the
country ; although, from the influx of strangers and
intercourse with the old world generally, there is
every reason to expect and hope for a material im
provement. The establishment of schools will ac
complish much towards this ; but above all, the im
provement and softening of manners will be pro
portioned to the proper estimation in which the
women are held ; and I am happy to say that they
begin to assume their proper station in society.
Their education is now better attended to ; and
the alliances which have been formed between
some of our countrymen and young ladies of fa
mily must have the most beneficial results.
Smoking, gaming, and the want of proper at
tention to personal cleanliness, will soon disappear;
and with a little humility (for there are few people
in the world who have a better opinion of them
selves), the Mexican gentry of the present day may

RANCHEROS OR VAQUEROS. JVC
very speedily take intellectual precede!(^fi>oT~-thgu-
ancestors. The rich picturesque costumes of both sex%l^^
now growing into disrepute, and European fashions
generally prevail in the principal cities.
The Rancheros or Vaqueros, who are a mixed
race of Creole and Indian blood, may be con
sidered as the yeomen of the country, and live
in the extensive cattle-plains, or in the cultivated
yet retired districts, content in their cabin of
mud or stakes, — lively, brave, good-tempered,
profoundly ignorant, and careless of every thing
beyond their immediate occupations. The revo
lutionary war, which for a season called them from
their retreats, has not a little disturbed the pastoral
comforts of their life, and has but too frequently
changed the quiet husbandman into a most bar
barous and blood-thirsty soldier : but time will re
medy this, and the Mexican farmers will probably
return to their own peculiar pursuits with the ad
vantage of a better and more enlightened age.
There is an independence and fearlessness of man-

234 RANCHEROS OR VAQUEROS.
ner in the legitimate Ranchero, which is very im
posing and pleasing ; and as he sallies forth in the
gray of the morning to review his herds of cattle,
on his active little horse, and cased in his short
leather jacket and boots, with the ready lasso at
his saddle-bow, he presents the most pleasing pic
ture of health and happiness. His frame is gene
rally light, active, and sinewy*; and the poorness
of his diet on Tortillas and an occasional lump of
Tasajo or sun-dried beef, maintains him in a state of
body capable of enduring great fatigue. His chief
fault is a propensity to get very tipsy whenever it
is in his power, but he is generally good-humoured;
and the murderous broils so frequent in the towns
are rarely heard of in the Ranchos or Haciendas.
The wives and daughters of this class of people
live a most retired life ; and there is little variety
in their occupations of grinding maize and making
Tortillas, spinning and sometimes weaving ; except
on Sundays and religious festivals, when, attired
* Some, however, of the Vaqueros of the Tierra adentro
are quite as tall and muscular figures as our Yorkshircmen.

RANCHEROS OR VAQUEROS. 235
in their gayest clothes, they walk, or are conveyed
on the same horses with the men of the family, to
the nearest church village, where having heard
mass and purchased all which they required at
the market, they join in the crowded and monoto
nous fandango peculiar to the country, and which
frequently continues all night. The female cos
tume consists of a white shirt with short sleeves,
and petticoats very full below, thickly plaited
above, which are tied tight immediately over the
hips. In this article of dress the most gaudy co
lours are preferred ; and even richly worked mus
lin and gaudy French silks have here and there
found their way into the most retired parts of the
country. They all use a kind of shawl or Reboso,
which is invariably worn over the head, and covers
the bust and shoulders. The hair is smoothly
parted in front, and amongst the young women
generally well kept. A passion for gaudy colour
ed shoes, whiah contrast oddly with the nut-brown
ankles, is universal with old and young on great
occasions ; and I have seen whole bevies of girls

236 ARRIEROS OR MULETEERS.
trudging barefoot to the merry-makings, and car
rying their sky-blue or yellow shoes in their hands.
The Arrieros or Muleteers are an offset from
the Rancheros : but their mode of life is very pe
culiar and enduring ; since, in their constant jour-
neyings, whether they travel in the burning low
lands, or in the most elevated, cold, and misty re
gions of the great Cordillera, they rarely sleep
under a roof; but, having cooked their very frugal
meal near the cargo in their charge, they lie down
amidst their mules' equipage, sheltered from the
rain by a piece of coarse Petate or sacking. The
mules meanwhile are sent out to pasture under the
care of one of the party, who attends them through
out the night ; and at day-break half-a-dozen Ar
rieros will commence, and in two hours saddle
and securely load fifty or sixty of these useful ani
mals. The proverbial honesty of the Mexican
Arrieros is to the present day unimpaired ; and,
with but few exceptions, withstood the test of the
late troubled times. Many of them pique them
selves on their vocation, which is very frequently

ARRIEROS OR MULETEERS. 237
hereditary ; and men of extensive property will be
found conveying merchandise through the coun
try on their own mules. I confess that of all the
natives of Mexico, the Arrieros are my favourites.
I have always found them to be civil, nay cour
teous, obliging, cheerful, and perfectly honest : and
their character in this latter respect may be esti
mated by the knowledge of the fact, that thousands
and even millions of dollars have frequently been
confided to their charge, which they in many in
stances have defended, at the hazard of their lives,
against those bands of robbers which the local go
vernment have now succeeded in dispersing *.
The constantly varying life of the Arrieros gives
them an acuteness beyond that of others of their
countrymen ; and their knowledge of men and places
instills a liberality of feeling which is very rare in
New Spain.
* The system and division of labour among the Arrieros,
their customs, and the laws by which they govern themselves,
are remarkably well adapted to the occupation of this impor
tant and useful class.

238 INDIANS.
The last on the list of society are the poor In
dians, — a mild, enduring, and despised race of peo
ple, who with care are capable of receiving the best
impressions. The memory of their former free
state seems stamped upon their serious counte
nances ; and when excited during the revolution
ary war, their courage, passions and devotedness
were very remarkable ; as, under the guidance of
their priests, they took up arms against their
ancient oppressors. They for the most part lead a
pastoral and retired life, cultivating the fruits in
the mighty Barrancas, or assembling in little vil
lages, where they manufacture cloth and various
articles of earthenware, andrear poultry for the mar
kets. They have preserved their race unmixed with
Spanish blood, and but few even speak the Spa
nish language. In their commerce with the towns
they are always to be seen in groups ; and I do not
ever remember to have seen a pure Indian walking
with a white man. They differ somewhat in cos
tume in each particular State; but the general
habit is a short tunic, of dark brown or blue wool-

INDIANS. 239
len, confined round the waist, with breeches of the
same material; — a profusion of thick black hair
spreads itself over the neck and shoulders. All
wear black or straw hats ; but few of them make
use of shoes, supplying their place by a rude kind
of sandal. The women wear the same coloured
woollens as the men; but generally use a white
shirt, fancifully ornamented round the neck with a
border of coloured worsted, and a short kind of
cloak, which, unlike that of the Creole females, is
worn over the shoulders. The hair is usually di
vided into two large and long pigtails, having red
or other coloured worsted interwoven with them,
and the ends are frequently joined in a bow, so as
to hang over the loins : some wear these tresses
tightly bound round the head, which has a good
effect, heightened occasionally by the addition of
some simple wild flower. In stature the Indians
are for the most part slightly formed, out-kneed,
and of an ungraceful carriage ; their features
plain, or even ugly ; and their complexion of a deep
dingy brown. Their intellect has never hitherto

240 INDIANS.
been fairly tried, but great docility to their in
structors might be expected ; as they look up with
particular veneration to their priests, who sway
them unboundedly by that religion which was in
troduced after the Conquest, and so modified to
their prejudices and intellects as to resemble in
many respects, as far as the blind worship of un
couth images is concerned, the idolatry of their
ancestors. It is, I believe, the general opinion that the In
dian population is now rapidly decreasing; yet I
could not find any thing to bear out this assertion.
It is true that they are not numerous, and that
hundreds of thousands were swept away by the
cruelties formerly practised by their imperious
masters; but the case has of late years been differ
ent. They live unmolested in their villages, are
the gardeners of the country, supply the towns
with vegetables and fruits, which do not require
much cultivation, and are now likely to increase in
numbers. They are usually very quiet, and live
most frugally.

STATE OF LAW. 241
The different languages of the various tribes of
Indians (of which some account is given by Hum
boldt) are confined to their own people, and not
used by the other races of the inhabitants of the
Republic. Very few of the Indians speak or under
stand more Spanish than is necessary for their
trading transactions.
During the eventful scenes of a protracted re
volutionary war, law and justice gave place to
the dictates of the various leaders of the prevail
ing parties ; and almost all trace of that distribu
tive justice which was strictly attended to by the
Spaniards, had disappeared when Mexico found
itself free. The early congresses of the Repub
licans speedily discovered the tottering situation
in which the nation still remained, and edicts
were passed that the different States, now "free
and sovereign" (libre y soberano), should form
their own laws, for domestic safety, and to re
press the wild disorganized manners which now
prevailed. Each Senate therefore drew up a
code of law, rather, in most instances, according
VOL. II. R

242 STATE OF LAW.
to the feelings of the framers, than adapted to
the temper and character of the people of the State
which they directed. In many, the penal code was
so arranged that the graver crimes received the
lightest punishments ; in others, — Jalisco, for in
stance, — it was said to be founded on the penal
code of England, and in this State trial by jury
was instituted. Little advantage, however, was de
rived from this measure, as bribery to some mem
bers of this body, and the ignorance of the others,
usually swayed their decisions, and justice was
rarely dispensed.
The State of Mexico now stands pre-eminent as
an example to the others : but none of those
which I visited, with the exception of Vera Cruz,
have as yet in any way imitated her. In the
capital, crime of all description was three years
since tacitly sanctioned by the apathy of the go
vernment ; but many recent executions of murder
ers, and a strict police, have effected the most be
neficial changes ; and all classes of people are now
protected; while the manners, feelings and ideas

LAWS RELATING TO THE MINES. 243
of men living under a just restraint, have most
materially improved.
The turbulence of the late troubled times is
wearing away, and the State of Vera Cruz may be
said to be almost equal to that of Mexico. In
Valladolid the people are also orderly and well-
behaved. In the more distant States, however,
the progress of civilization has been slower ; and
although Guadalaxara, Zacatecas, San Luis Po
tosi, and Las Tamaulipas, have materially changed
their general character, very much yet remains
to be done ; since, as long as murder and daring
robberies incur the same trifling punishments as
minor offences, the lower classes must long remain
in the same state of barbarism.
One court of justice is however equally well
supported throughout the whole civilized part
of the Republic — that for the decision of ques
tions relating to the mines. Under the govern
ment of the Spaniards there was a distinct Tri
bunal de Mineria, of which the supreme court
was in the capital; but a branch was establish-
r 2

244 FOOD OF THE LABOURING CLASSES.
ed in the chief city of each mining State. The
laws on this subject were well framed and well ad
ministered. The functions of this tribunal have
now devolved upon the Governors of States, as
sisted by a council of the most experienced miners ;
and the ordinances themselves remain in full effect :
so that the foreigners who are now working the
Mexican mines can at all times appeal to the " laws
of the Mineria," should their proceedings be in any
way checked by the interference of their mining
neighbours. Contested rights, "Desagues*," and
the right of water or surface, are the points on
which the disputes are usually hinged ; and by the
dictum of the tribunal the parties must abide.
The usual food of the labouring classes, through
out such States as I visited, is the thin cake of
crushed maize, which I have described under the
name of Tortilla : and it is remarkable that, not
withstanding the great abundance of cattle in many
places, the traveller can rarely obtain meat in the
little huts which he finds on his road. Chilis are
* Drainage.

CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY-PEOPLE. 245
eaten abundantly with the Tortillas, being stewed
into a kind of sauce, into which the cakes are
dipped. A few fowls are at times to be seen wan
dering near the cottages, or some pigs rambling
through the village, and the flesh of these creatures
furnishes a feast on holidays.
The infirm and aged country-people lead a quiet
easy life, and occupy themselves in the midst of
their families, by assisting in cooking their frugal
meals, or spinning the woollen or cotton yarn for
the manufacture of their very simple dresses. No
instruction is given to the rising generation beyond
that of rearing the boys to the pursuits of their
fathers, and teaching the girls their domestic du
ties. The priests are usually too ignorant or too
indolent to give any kind of education to their
young parishioners ; and a child which can repeat
the ordinanzas of the Church, and quantities
of orisons to the most popular saint, by rote like a
parrot, is considered as being highly gifted. The
husbandmen would willingly and gratefully receive
advances for the instruction of themselves and fa-

246 CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY-PEOPLE.
milies ; but in the thinly -peopled districts I know
not how sufficient children could be collected to
form a school. The infants are usually quiet, do
cile and intelligent, and, as far as I could observe,
of excellent tempers.
There is a marked difference in regard to moral
conduct between the dwellers in cities and the
agricultural or pastoral people, — very much in
favour of the latter. The poor industrious pea
sant, living amongst his mighty mountains, or
tending the immense herds of cattle on the plains,
possesses many excellent qualities, and is degraded
by but few vices ; while the white Creole of Mexico
is the least estimable, in every respect, of the inha
bitants of New Spain. The marriages amongst all
classes, but particularly those of the poorer orders,
are contracted at an early age ; yet I rarely saw
such large families of children as are to be met
with in Europe. The duration of life is about the
same as with us ; and although at a much earlier
period the persons of both sexes bear deep im
pressions of age, they are generally healthy, and

CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY-PEOPLE. 247
enjoy life free from many of those complaints to
which Europeans are subjected in their declining
years. Rheumatism is the chief scourge of the
old, agues of the middle-aged ; but on the whole,
the labouring classes of Mexico may be considered
as a very healthy race.
I met with but few cases of insanity amongst
any classes of people, but saw several instances of
idiotcy. The latter sufferers are permitted to ram
ble about, and are usually treated with great kind
ness, rarely being turned out of the houses which
they enter*, and being regarded rather as objects
of pity than derision.
I have so frequently spoken of the dwellings of
the Mexicans in the course of my Journal, that I
need not describe them further in this slight sum
mary. An account of their dresses also may be
collected from the same source.
The country-people weave in rude looms the
stuffs in which they clothe themselves; and manu
factories are not common in the populous towns
* I am speaking of villages.

248 MANUFACTURES.
and cities. At Puebla, however, there is an exten
sive manufacture of leather, and Queretaro may
also be called a manufacturing town. All classes
are rather dirty and slovenly than otherwise, al
though a love of glittering and fine clothing is in
herent in them. Few ablutions are performed by
the generality of people. In the cities great im
provements are observable within the two or three
last years ; combs, razors, and tooth-brushes being
much more in vogue than formerly; yet in the
present day the Mexican gentleman rarely, if ever,
shaves while travelling, and the ladies relinquish
but slowly their favourite cigars.
The Mexican Spaniard is lively and fond of
amusement. Religious festivals and fire-works
are his delight ; and the dances, although very un
graceful compared with those of the mother-coun
try, are always well attended. The love of this
amusement is more general amongst the peasantry,
who frequently dance throughout the night, with a
regard to order and decency which is very praise
worthy. Their musical instruments are small gui-

AMUSEMENTS. 249
tars, fiddles, and harps, of their own making ; and
singing usually accompanies the favourite fandango
tunes of the Xarabe. The amusements of the chil
dren are as amongst us : but as they grow up, the love
of play is instilled into them by the example of their
parents, and soon forms one of the most impor
tant and favourite occupations of their lives : in fact,
gaming, smoking cigars, and riding on horseback
in the Paseo, are the chief occupations of the men.
Of those States through which I travelled, Gua
dalaxara and Valladolid, with the western boun
daries of the State of Mexico, are by far the most
productive ; and agriculture, even in its present im-
proveable state, yields a certain and valuable re
venue. Maize flourishes in all the varieties of the
Mexican temperature ; wheat and barley are culti
vated on the extensive plains amidst the irregular
Cordillera, and thrive most luxuriantly at eleva
tions of from 6000 to 7000 feet. The fields are rarely
inclosed in any way ; and the cattle of the passing
traveller not unfrequently make sad incursions
amongst the young crops, if not carefully driven, as

250 AGRICULTURE.
they pass along the roads between the rising grain.
The maize is cultivated in two ways. The first and
most general, called " Taparado," is by sowing in
ploughed fields, which are again turned over : the
other, named " Tapapie," is when it is planted at
regular intervals, a square vara apart, and pressed
down by the foot of the husbandman*. I have
seen far less standing wheat than barley, which
latter occupies very extensive districts near the
plains of Appan and in various other parts. The
annual rains are in these places sufficient for its
nourishment : but there are situations in which all
the farinaceous grains require occasional irriga
tion; for which purpose a mountain-stream or a
river is usually considered as indispensable f.
* In this method it is customary, on the crop acquiring a
height of three or four feet, to turn up the earth between
the lines by means of a light plough ; and the hoe is rarely
used except in the early 6tages of the young plants, which
six or seven months suffice to bring to maturity. The sowing
time is usually in May, June, or July.
t Grain reared by this process is distinguished by the af
fixture of the term Riego : as Mais de Riego ; Cebada de
Riego.

AGRICULTURE. 251
No manure of any kind is used for agricultural
purposes, although it could in many instances be
most effectually employed : yet such is the bounty
of Nature, that the almost totally neglected crops
are in many instances productive to a degree un
known in Europe.
I am unable to give any comparative proportion
between our statute acre and the divisions of land
in Mexico, which are purchased or hired by the
number of Fanegas of grain they can receive in
seed *. The nearest estimate, by an intelligent gen
tleman near Guadalaxara, is, that 30,000 square
varas, or Spanish yards, will receive one Fanega of
maize, which is sowed at about three grains to each
corner of a square vara. The time of the harvest
varies according to localities ; but I saw barley in
the sheaf near Appan, in October and November.
Near the little villages, peas, beans, (principally
of the kind called Frijoli, similar to our black
French beans,) varieties of Chilis or Capsicums
* The Fanega is a measure of capacity, and equal to 1-599
English bushels, or five fanegas equal to eight bushels.

252 VEGETABLE PRODUCE.
and the Camotes or sweet potatoe, are cultivated ;
but coffee, cotton, indigo, Vanilla, (which at Vera
Cruz was selling at 1000 pods for 150 dollars) and
other valuable productions, are chiefly reared in
Oaxaca and distant districts which I did not visit.
The sugar-cane, fruits, and other products of the
warmer climates, are to be found in the depths of
the precipitous Barrancas. But I must confess that
I saw but little profusion of cultivated flowers ; and
still less of fruits, of which so much is said, except
in the principal towns or proceeding on their way
to them, — fruit or vegetables being rarely procured
in any of the villages.
In the States of Tamaulipas and San Luis I have
before observed that cultivation is comparatively
but little attended to, the plains being almost to
tally devoted to the pasturage of cattle.
The same may also be said of the State of Za
catecas, the barren wild districts of which are very
remarkable, although it also contains many su
perb Haciendas. These in most instances, unless
favoured by the vicinity of some stream, have a

AGRICULTURE. 253
dam (or Presa) of masonry thrown across the nar
row part of some narrow dell or valley, in which a
large tank of water is preserved from the rains for
the irrigation of the farm in the dry season. Ca
nals run from the Presa ; and the supply passes
through water-gates, which are constructed with
considerable ingenuity.
All the agricultural implements are extremely
rude, but the natives prefer them in most instances
to those recently sent from England. At the farm
of Ystula, the property of the Real del Monte
Company and situated near the mines, our ploughs
are much admired; and the facility of turning up
the ground to a depth the Mexican plough cannot
reach, the neatness of the distribution of the crops,
and the very evident improvement in the produce
of many fields, has already excited the astonish
ment and elicited the praises of the neighbouring
farmers, wedded as they have been to their own
particular customs. If they once begin to imitate,
much will have been accomplished.
The Haciendas usually contain a little village,

254 AGRICULTURE.
inhabited by the labourers on the estate. The
women are employed in making curd-cheeses,
either for the benefit of the farm or their private
consumption; but butter is rarelyto be found, hogs'-
lard being in most instances used in its place *.
The milk indeed of the cows is not of that rich
quality which would be requisite for this purpose ;
and the heat of the climate in many of the most
flourishing cattle districts is too great to admit of
butter becoming solid, except during the three or
four winter months.
The mode of regulating rent is by the number of
Fanegas which the land could receive. It is usually
paid in money, not in produce.
The price of labour varies very considerably,

* The supply of this most important article of consump
tion is kept up by some Haciendas being almost exclusively
devoted to the breeding and care of hogs, which are usually
fed to a certain size in the open country, and then fattened
on maize. The lard is also in great demand for the manu
facture of soap, and extensive premises are usually fitted up
on the farm with all the apparatus requisite for its manufac
ture.

PRICE OF LABOUR. 255
according to the situation of Haciendas. On the
cattle-farms the Vaqueros, Rancheros, or herds
men, receive about five dollars a month. The
husbandman, hired by the day or week, about
seven-pence English per diem.

APPENDIX.

Appendix I.
Notes on the Bar of Tampico, and the River
Panuco.
1 entered the Gulf of Mexico in the month of March,
when the Nortes * are supposed to have nearly ceased, or
at all events to have so far diminished in violence as to
be no longer objects of dread to any class of vessels.
In our passage across from Cape San Antonio we ex
perienced extremely fine weather ; and having good ob
servations, were enabled to ascertain the existence of
the northerly current, which set us about ten miles a
day. We first struck soundings on approaching the Mex
ican coast in the parallel of Tampico, in 108 fathoms
soft mud, when about thirty miles distant from the
shore. At a distance of sixteen or eighteen miles we
distinctly made out the land from the deck, although it
was represented as being so low that vessels were close
* Violent gales of wind from the North, which are prevalent
from November till. March.
VOL. II. S

258 BAR OF TAMPICO,
to the beach before it could be discovered. At this di
stance we had thirty fathoms water, still muddy bottom.
Standing-in for the coast, the soundings diminished re
gularly, and at about eight miles distance we clearly
distinguished the huts at La Barra, which, on a line of
coast so completely unpeopled in every other part, are
a sufficient mark for vessels making the port ; and the
captain who has once seen this part of the coast will
always recognize it again without any difficulty. At
five miles from the land we had ten fathoms, and run
ning into six fathoms, at about two miles made the sig
nal for a pilot, who soon came off in a launch *.
At this distance a continued surf appears to cross the
mouth of the River Panuco, in consequence of the
Northern point of the Bar overlying that to the South
ward ; but as the vessel stands-in, a clear passage is seen
of about a cable's length across, although varying occa
sionally from the shifting of the sands of the Bar. The
surf on either side is the guide to the pilots ; and the
depth of water being known, with a proper allowance
for the almost continual ground swell, any captain
might safely carry his vessel over without assistance ;
although by doing so he saves no pilotage, since this
* Since our arrival an opposition piloting firm have established
themselves at the Bar; and vessels now find the launches on the
look-out for them several miles from the land.

AND RIVER PANUCO. 259
must always be paid. The best anchoring ground in
the offing is E. by N. of the Bar, in ten fathoms water,
although many vessels come into seven and eight; where,
it must be observed, they are exposed to a heavier
swell, and there would be more difficulty in hauling
off the land in the event of bad weather setting in.
From all I could learn, a vessel may trust to finding
very regular soundings all along this part of the coast ;
and if, on approaching it, the lead is kept going in the
night, no danger need be apprehended in standing-in
for the land.
When I first crossed the Bar, our shoalest cast was
nineteen feet and a half, the wind easterly. On my se
cond passage over it, at the expiration of about ten days,
there were only thirteen feet : and in the three last vi
sits which I paid, I found but twelve. These observa
tions were made as near the time of high water as a con
stantly varying flood from the river would enable me to
judge, since the tides are here very inconsiderable at
all times, their average rise and fall seldom exceeding
two or three feet. At the time of the Periodical rains,
however, the River Panuco becomes enormously swollen,
and no estimate can be given of its ever-varying depth
at the Bar. The whole distance between the visible
points at the entrance is about half a mile ; but the deep
est channel at the time of my passing was scarcely a
S 2

260 BAR OF TAMPICO,
cable's length across, and the actual bar little more than
a cable's length over. On either side of it, as well to
seaward as within the river, the water gradually deepens,
although you sooner get into four fathoms water after
crossing it than when standing out to sea ; for in that
direction the flat extends further, and at about one mile
distance you have five fathoms. The marks for entering
the river at the time of which I speak, — and it must al
ways be remembered that the bar continually shifts, —
were these. There are two high rude scaffoldings from
which a look-out is kept to seaward ; and these are called
Miras. The first or outer Mira on with the larboard end
of a long barn-like building, brings you into the fair
way in four fathoms : you then run until the Mira is its
own breadth from the barn, and at this moment have
the shoalest water ; at which time the second or inner
Mira is the barn's breadth on the right of the barn. As
these bearings shift, the Bar is passed. You may then
hug either shore in four to three fathoms, as the wind
may be blowing, to give sufficient room to round to
and anchor abreast the centre of the little village of
huts at La Barra. Before the establishment of an op
position pilot company, captains of vessels were liable
to be much imposed upon : but perhaps it will now
scarcely be requisite to give them a caution not to place
too much confidence in the assertions of the pilots as

AND RIVER PANUCO. 261
to the depth of water ; as they formerly had, and per
haps on some occasions may still have, an interest in re
presenting it as less than it really is. This is in order
that the vessel may be anchored outside, and employ
ment given to the launches in discharging sufficient of
her cargo, at an enormous expense, to lighten her for
crossing the Bar. A boat might always be sent to
sound ; and an officer of prudence need fear no accident
in doing so in moderate weather, for in the event of the
Bar being too rough for him, he could always retreat
before he had advanced too far into the short and
sometimes dangerously chopping sea which falls on it.
Always bearing in mind, that all the accidents which
have happened to boats on the Bar of Tampico, have
been while in the act of winding, when the river current
was setting out, and the sea breeze blowing in. The
best time for crossing is early in the morning, when
even canoes need fear nothing. The evening is some
times as good also ; but two hours on either side of
noon are reported by some pilots as being the worst
times. In calm weather vessels may warp in or out in
perfect safety with good care and their own boats ; but
employing the pilot launches is very expensive, although
the pilots are obliged, for their fees, to supply one
launch free of any other expense. The visiting officer
of the Customs comes on board at La Barra, and seals

262 BAR OF TAMPICO,
down all the hatches and store-rooms, which are not
opened again until the vessel is again visited on her
anchoring off El Pueblo Nuevo de las Tamaulipas. It
is therefore requisite that sufficient provisions and other
necessaries for the ship's use should be taken out of the
hold before crossing the Bar ; and as the winds can
not always be depended on to carry the vessel up the
river, at least a week's supply should be kept out.
Some soldiers will also be put on-board, and they re
main until the whole cargo is landed. It is not ex
pected that these men should be provisioned ; but it is
always found politic to do so, as in that case they make
themselves useful on-board. Nothing can be done by
using rough language or in any way resisting the
Custom-house officers at the Bar : some refreshments
and attentions will do ten times better.
As soon as the vessel is secured, the captain must find
his way to report himself to the commandant of Pueblo
Viejo, or Old Tampico; and on application a soldier will
accompany him as a guide. It will be requisite that he
take with him a manifest of his cargo, and a list of his
crew and passengers ; but he need not volunteer to show
his register or name the extent of his tonnage. As at
this period (March 1826) an enormous duty is laid on
all sealed letters, and four dollars on every newspaper
introduced into the country, the Custom-house people

AND RIVER PANUCO. 263
endeavour, as soon as they come on-board at the Bar,
to ascertain if any such are on board. Captains should
therefore be on their guard against the civil offers of
these people, to be of assistance by carrying letters on
shore, or in their inquiries for recent newspapers : for,
once getting these in their possession, they do not give
them up until the dues are paid. A gentleman not long
before our arrival was thus obliged to pay seventy dol
lars for a bundle of newspapers, although I believe that
there is no government order to impose thus on strangers.
The course of the river from La Barra to the turn
of the first reach is S.W. by S. three miles ; and vessels
will carry good soundings all the way in four, five, and
six fathoms, always giving the preference to the lar
board shore. The course on rounding the point, off
which you may keep about one cable's length, is then
rather over by the larboard hand, to avoid a point
which is seen to run from Tamaulipas, and which car
ries a steep shoal a considerable way out with it. Keep
ing some huts, which will be seen, at about one mile and
a half to the S. by W., you are then in the fair way ; and
rather hugging the side on which they stand, you may
then steer for the anchorage abreast of Tamaulipas,
to which the vessels at anchor there will be a suffi
cient direction. Nothing need be apprehended from
vessels grounding on either side of the river, as the

264 BAR OF TAMPICO,
rise and fall is inconsiderable, and the bottom a soft
mud. The Custom-house at Tamaulipas closes at one p.m.,
and nothing can be done after that hour. The chief
authorities live at Pueblo Viejo, which is three miles
from Tamaulipas, and the way to it is by the huts at
the Humo. One mile and a half S. E. by E. of the new
town boats must land, or at all events go sufficiently
near to the Humo to be examined by a Custom-house
officer who is stationed there. The way thence is by
a river 200 yards wide, and very shoal where it is
broken by small islands. Strangers, who ofcourse do
not know the situation of the banks, must push for the
first huts they see, and leaving their boat on the beach
walk thence into the town. It should be understood
by captains, that the towns of Pueblo Viejo and Ta
maulipas are in different districts, and that in conse
quence a ship is not permitted to divide her cargo, but
all must be landed at one place. For this, the new
town affords by far the greatest facilities, and " per
mits" may thence be obtained for the opposite side. An
enormous expense is attendant on landing a cargo by the
boats of the country ; and it is therefore advisable that
vessels should bring a large long-boat with them for
this purpose, as when her work is done she would al
ways sell for double her original cost.

AND RIVER PANUCO. 265
I may exemplify this by saying, that the Real del
Monte Company's brig having crossed the Bar, was a
saving of about 2000 dollars for launch hire ; and having
used her own new long-boat in discharging, was a further
saving of 500 more. Labour is here very expensive.
The pilotage in and out is thirteen dollars and a half,
which are not demanded until the vessel is about to
sail, when the consignee settles with the pilots. For the
above sum you are entitled, as I have already said, to
one launch to assist you. There are three grades of
launches, at thirty, thirty-five, and forty dollars ; some
one of which the pilots will generally endeavour to per
suade captains to hire, as essentially requisite. Should
it be impossible for a vessel to cross the Bar, she may
anchor outside with the most perfect safety ; for by
taking proper precautions she will always have time to
slip at the setting-in of a Norther, which will carry her
directly off shore, and when it ceases she may re
gain her anchor. — A vessel consigned to G. Robertson,
Esq., the American Consul, to whom I am indebted for
much valuable information, was in this way blown from
the shore twenty-two times in two months, before she
could finally discharge her cargo.
The town of Pueblo Viejo is most incommodiously
situated, as the passage to it is so shallow that laden
boats cannot at all times reach it. In mercantile im-

266 BAR OF TAMPICO,
portance it is ceding very fast to the new town, which
already contains a large and rapidly increasing popu
lation, several good houses and excellent stores, the rent
of which, however, is exorbitant.
Altamira, once the principal mercantile dep&t, is
now nearly forsaken, and has only a few of the poorer
sort of huts inhabited, the chief part of its population
having- removed to Pueblo Nuevo. From this place
a road for wheel-carriages has recently been made to
the Bar and Altamira, which will facilitate commerce
very materially.
In these remarks which I have drawn up for the as
sistance of traders to Tampico, it must always be re
membered, that in all things concerning the Custom
house, I only write of March until May of 1 8£6 ; for the
regulations are so frequently and unaccountably altered,
that perhaps not one of those of 1826 will be legal in
1827. The navigation of the River Panuco, although prac
tised for a vast number of years, has yet been but little
known to captains of ships, neither have commercial
men ever turned their attention to it. Those who have
ascended, have never given any description of the river,
and those living on its banks feel but little interest in
exploringbeyond their immediate neighbourhood. There
are few rivers which meander more in their course than

AND RIVER PANUCO. 267
those of Panuco and San Juan, (the name applied to the
Panuco above Tampico,) and in an extent of 206 miles,
which I traversed between Pueblo Nuevo and the Rancho
of San Juan, there are no less than 216 reaches, of each
of which I ascertained the bearings by compass. Three
miles above Tamaulipas there are three entrances to the
lake of Altamira navigable only for canoes, which prior
to the building of Tamaulipas were constantly employ
ed in transporting merchandise to Altamira, as the prin
cipal commercial town and depot. One of the entrances
leads to a small river the Tamisi, whence the towns are
supplied with fresh water by canoes which constantly
trade in it. The river of Panuco is here about half a
mile in width. On either side are scattered, at distant
intervals, the huts of Rancheros, who are employed on the
large cattle-farms which are established wherever the
woods are sufficiently open to admit of the animals pas
turing. The immediate banks of the river, however,
are thickly clothed with timber, which at and above
Panuco is frequently of great size : — the moral or fus
tic wood, ebony, log-wood, palo azul or blue dye-wood,
the cedar, sarsaparilla, uli or India-rubber tree, and a
vast number of other trees, of which as yet the names
and qualities are not known to us ; but which may prove
to be similar to some of the valuable woods produced
in other parts of America. The forests also abound in

268 BAR OF TAMPICO,
wild limes and lemons, with a variety of other fruits,
which can be easily procured. At the distance of eighty
miles by water, and at about forty by land, stands the
town of Panuco. This was once a place of very con
siderable trade, as a door to the interior ; but the new
town of Tamaulipas has robbed it of a great part of its
commerce. Vessels, however, which can cross the Bar
of Tampico laden, may always go up ; although a week
sometimes elapses before they can reach the town, owing
to the number of opposite reaches and the very baffling
winds. Outward-bound vessels very frequently go up
the river for the fustic wood, which is supplied ready
cut and barked at half a dollar the quintal. A trade
is also kept up between this place and Campeachy in
salt, for which there is a great demand at the Ranchos
in order to the curing of the tasaja or hung beef.
Panuco is an old and well known Indian town of the
Guastecos. The land on either side of the river at this
part is highly cultivated in maize, gourds, and melons ;
but it is annually inundated by the rise of the waters,
which at times flood the streets of Panuco, although at
the time I visited it the town appeared to stand on a
bank at least thirty feet above the level of the river.
Five miles above Panuco a stop is put to a further navi
gation of the river by vessels of burthen ; as a bar,
having at this season but four feet water on it, runs im-

AND RIVER PANUCO. 269
mediately across from shore to shore. This bank is
about a quarter of a mile over, after which the river
again acquires in certain parts a depth of two or three
fathoms. At a distance of forty-seven miles by water
above Panuco is the small Indian village of Tanjuco,
in which there is not a single white resident. By land
the distance between these two places is but nine
leagues, about twenty-seven English miles. At fifteen
miles above Tanjuco is the junction of the rivers San
Juan and Tamoin with that hitherto called the Panuco.
The Tamoin is said to come from the westward, and is
I believe supplied by the river Limon, and several
smaller streams which are crossed on the journey from
Tampico to San Luis. I know not how far the Tamoin
may be navigable ; but its tributaries are certainly not
so, even for canoes, on account of the falls and shal
lows. At about three days or fifty miles from the junc
tion of the Tamoin with the Panuco are warm sulphu
reous baths, to which the sick resort from the coast in
great numbers. I followed the San Juan to the S.W.
through abundance of turnings. At thirty-six miles
above the junction, the small clear river Tempoal en
ters the San Juan from the eastward ; and on passing
this we soon after came to rapids and shoals, which much
impede laden canoes in their ascent, as they run consi
derable risk from the rush of water over the stony banks,

270 BAR OF TAMPICO,
on which lie grounded large trunks of trees, forming
very dangerous eddies. At this height up the river the
difficulties are too numerous for people to trust mer
chandise in canoes : and the highest point to which
laden boats might be sent is Tanquichi, eighty-seven
miles above Panuco. The roads here are very good,
and are said to continue so in its neighbourhood, to
various parts of the country. There is however so
little commerce to this place at present, that cargo-mules
seldom arrive there, although there is little doubt but
that they might be procured by a previous order, should
this line of route at any time be adopted. In my opinion
nothing would be saved, either in expense or time, by
sending goods up the river in boats, as they would be
many days in reaching the point of which I speak, and
the usual pace of cargo-mules from Tampico would
perhaps outstrip them. The labour of canoe-men, and
hire of their boats, is very dear ; and after all, the Ar
rieros would without doubt charge high for bringing
their mules out of the usual route. Thus in my opinion
the river can never be of the slightest use to us, until
towns, roads, and establishments are placed at the high
est navigable points, which is not likely to be the case
for very many years. To ascend again from Tanquichi
to the Rancho of San Juan, (which is the extreme point
I visited, and 206 miles from Tamaulipas,) canoes should

AND RIVER PANUCO. 271
only be half-laden at this season, as the rapids above Tan
quichi are very frequent and impetuous ; but heavier boats
or rafts might descend the river with far less difficulty.
San Juan and Tanquichi are twenty-four miles apart
by water, and from the former place it has never been
the custom to forward goods : I could therefore gain
no information as to the probable time of their transport
to San Luis. The few people who had travelled on that
road varied much in their accounts ; but I should fix
the time for a cargo at sixteen days. San Juan is a
small beautifully situated Rancho, containing about a
hundred inhabitants. The river above this passes to
Miraflores, about eighty miles higher, where there is an
American establishment, with saw-mills for cutting
cedar. Hence the river comes from Tamasinchali,
where it assumes the name of Moctezuma, and its source
is from the lakes, by the " desague " of Huehuetoca near
the capital of Mexico. Of the Bar of Tampico.
The greater part of the eastern coast, in the centre of
the Gulf of Mexico, trends nearly N.N.W. and S.S.E.
for many hundred miles ; and a continual surf, varying
in its strength according to circumstances, breaks along
the shore for the whole of that extent. This is known
to increase tremendously in violence during the preva-

272 BAR OF TAMPICO,
lence of the Nortes, or northerly gales, which blow with
great frequency and impetuosity from the months of
November until March.
As the direction of these furious winds is immediately
along the coast, they necessarily bring with them an ad
ditional set of current near the shore, although it has, I
believe, been ascertained by vessels well in the offing,
that there is a strong set of northerly current during the
gales. The in-shore stream passing to the south, neces
sarily offers an opposition to any cross sets, as from the
rivers of Sotto La Marina, La Barra Ciega, Tampico
and Alvarado, which places all have Bars of a variety of
depths, and said to shift according to the prevalence of
the Northers during their appointed season. The im
pediments which the outsets of these rivers present to
the passage of the southern current must, it is evident,
offer sufficient check to cause the deposit of the sands
it carries with it, of course, on that side where it first
receives the opposition.
That the Bar of Tampico owes its origin to circum
stances of this nature is very fully proved by the con
stant shifting of its sands, and the situation of the low
shoal points which form the entrance of the river. That
to the northward bears evident marks of being more
under the influence of the prevailing current than the
other, from its superior elevation, and above all from

AJJD RIVER PANUCO. 273
the immense quantity of drift wood which lies closely
blended with the sands and broken shells of which it is
composed, while the southern shoal, at the season of
which I speak, had not a single stick upon it.
The encroachment of the northern point upon the
sea is also very remarkable, and is proved by the half
visible wreck of a schooner, which was lost on it nearly
two years since, and which is now above two hundred
yards from the line of surf. Masses of madreporite, co
rals and pumice-stones are also found in great quantities
here, while on the south side they are very rare. I
mention these facts as showing the great facilities which
offer themselves for constructing a durable bulwark for
the entrance of this small but increasingly important
mercantile harbour ; since it appears to me from re
peated observations, that with the simple assistance of
stakes and wattles, well placed and driven into the sand
in the calm months, the first Norther in the blowing;
season would have the effect of raising a bank against
them ; and fresh piles might be thus added and conti
nued to seaward, until a firm point should be formed, where
now is a long shoal of a mile in extent, on which the
sea constantly breaks, and which off its outer end in the
blue water, has but two fathoms water. I do not mean
to affirm that any additional depth would be secured to
the centre of the Bar by these means ; but I conceive
VOL. II. T

274 ~a BAR OF TAMPICO. r
that a more equal and secure channel might be thus ob
tained, and its variations from nineteen to eight feet
avoided, leaving perhaps an intermediate depth sufficient
to permit the constant entrance of vessels drawing
twelve feet water, or perhaps more. The current of
the Panuco is not so strong as to stop the influx of the
tides, although it offers a considerable check to them ;
and as its course on passing the bar rather inclines to the
south-eastward, a natural current might in all probabi
lity be formed, if the river were unimpeded in its outset
by the heavy seas which roll along the coast. The lati
tude of the north point of the Bar is 22° 16'N., and
its longitude, from repeated observations by chrono
meter, confirmed by comparison with the observations
on board H.M.S. Tweed, is 97° 43' W.

'*

Appendix II.
Notes on the Process of Amalgamation at the Ha
cienda of La Sauceda, Veta Grande, Zacatecas.
The ore after being raised from the mine and broken
on the Patio, or Dressing-floor, at the Veta Grande, is
weighed and put into leather bags. These are carried
by asses, each of which is laden with a carga of twelve
arobas, or 300lbs., to the Hacienda, under the charge of
a careful confidential person and several drivers, whose
exclusive duty it is to attend to the safe-conduct of the
metal. The cargas are all delivered into the Hacienda,
with a list of their number and qualities : and the first
process to which the ores are subjected, is that of the
Molinos, or Stamps.
These in principle very much resemble the stamps used
in the tin mines in Cornwall, although inferior to them
in power, neither falling with such weight nor crushing
the ore so completely. They are worked by mules ;
and the ore is constantly supplied by three lads, who
take it from the heap between two pieces of hollow
board or horn, and throw it beneath the stamps. As
the ore is crushed it falls through small holes of the
T 2

276 PROCESS OF
size of peas, which are perforated in strong hides
stretched on a slope on either side the machine, placed
immediately over a pit which receives the Granza, or
fine ore, and is entered by a small flight of steps.
There are seven Molinos at the Hacienda, six of
which work constantly ; the seventh being kept ready
against any sudden emergency. To attend to these,
each Molino has three Cebadores, or feeders of metal,
at four reals and a half per diem; and one Arreador, or
mule-driver, at four reals per diem. He sits on the
extreme end of the lever, and drives the animals, much
as they are driven in the Cornish whims. They are,
however, blindfolded. Each Molino has eighteen mules,
of which three at a time are used and driven abreast at
a trot, and these are changed every three hours. The
Molinos work from 4 a.m. until 8 p.m., and each crushes
on an average six Montons* of twenty quintals per
diem. A Molino has nine Mazos, or stamps, of which
the Almadanetas, or iron heads, each weigh one quintal.
The length of the staff of each stamp is about nine feet
four inches, and its size seven inches by four.
The heads descend on two long blocks of iron, (or
copper when iron cannot easily be procured,) called
* The Monton varies in quantity in different parts of the coun
try. At Real del Monte it is of thirty quintals ; at Zacatecas, as
above stated, twenty quintals.

AMALGAMATION. 277
Chapas. These and the heads generally last from ten
to twelve months. The cost of the wood work of a
Molino is about  500doll.
The iron for 9 heads 9 quintals
2 chapas 9
18 at 30 doll, the quint. = 540
Making a total cost of  \040doll.
The men who work at the Molinos never leave the
walls of the Hacienda on any account, except on feast
days, or Saturdays at night, and they return again to
their work at 4 o'clock on the Monday morning. They
are all very strictly searched before passing the outer
doors. From the Molinos, the dry Granza, or pounded ore,
is carried to the Tahonas, or Grinding Mills.
Of these there are seventy-four, which work during die
same hours as the Molinos or Stamps, to which they are
immediately adjacent ; that is to say, from 4 a.m. to
8 p.m. : and the men who attend them are subject to the
same confinement in the Hacienda, but return to it and
commence working on the Sunday evening at 6 p.m.
The Tasas, or Bowls of the Tahonas, are about nine
feet in diameter by one foot in depth, and are smoothly
paved with flat unhewn slabs of porphyry. The bowl

278 PROCESS OF
is also surrounded by a low rough rim of the same ma
terial. The machinery of the Tahona is extremely sim
ple, and merely a strong shaft moving on a spindle in
a beam above it. It rests on a firm iron pivot beneath,
which traverses in a small iron socket on the top of a
post of hard wood, rising about a foot above the ground
in the centre of the Tasa. This prop and the shaft are
about six feet ten inches in total height between the
beam and the base, and the shaft is crossed at right
angles by two strong spars, which form four stout arms,
each about five feet long. To the end of each of these
is attached a large block of red porphyry, by lashings
which are tied to two wooden pegs firmly driven into
the upper side and extremity of the blocks, and then
strongly secured at the same distances to the bar, so as
to give a free scope to the stone, which is thus drawn
evenly over the base by the action of the machine. The
Granza, or dry crushed ore, is then mixed with a pro
per quantity of water, and the grinding is commenced.
The four grinding stones are called Metapiles. Their
average length is about two feet eight inches, and
about eighteen inches square. They weigh about thirty
arobas, and are delivered at the Hacienda at two dol
lars each. Notwithstanding the hardness and great
size of these blocks, they become unserviceable from
loss of weight in ten or twelve weeks ; and the paving

AMALGAMATION. 279
of the Tasas is of about the same duration. Each
Tahona has four mules attached to it, of which two
work at a time harnessed to one of the horizontal arms
lengthened to nine feet, so that each Parada, or relief,
shall work eight hours ; as thus : — from 4 to 6 : 6 to
noon : noon to 6 : 6 to 8. In the course of which
sixteen hours every Tahona is supposed to grind
ten quintals of Granza into Lama. This last when
considered by the Macero to be sufficiently reduced,
is carried to the Patio or amalgamation floor, by the
Tahoneros (men who attend the Tahonas) in a tub
slung to a long pole.
Every two Tahonas have one man to attend them
(a Tahonero), at four reals per diem.
The whole Galera, or shed under which the Tahonas
work, is under the superintendence of one Macero, at
from fifteen to twenty dollars a week ; two Ayndante
Maceros, at from eight to ten dollars a week ; and a
Capitan de Galera, at from six to eight dollars a week.
The cost of a Tahona, including the paving of the
bowl and the four grinding stones, is on an average
thirty dollars. The Patio, or Amalgamation Floor.
This is a large flat space open to the sky, 312 feet
in length by 236 in breadth, and securely surrounded

280 PROCESS OF
by strong walls. It is paved with large unhewn slabs
of porphyry, and is capable of containing twenty-four
Tortas (or flat circular collections of Lama, of about
fifty feet diameter and seven inches deep when the
Patio is not filled, but of somewhat smaller dimensions
when nearly so) ranged in four rows and numbered
from the left-hand corner *.
A Torta of Zacatecas contains sixty Montons of twenty
quintals each, and is thus formed. In the first instance
a square space of the requisite size for the Torta is
marked out and inclosed by a number of rough planks,
which are propped in their places on the Patio floor by
large stones ; and dried horse dung and dust is piled
round their edges, to prevent the escape of the Lama.
A heap of Saltierra-^ is then piled in the centre, in the
proportion on an average of two fanegas and a half to
the Monton, = 150 for the Torta. After this, the Lama,
in the quantity I have mentioned, is poured in. When
the last or sixtieth Monton is delivered, the Saltierra is
shovelled down and well mixed with the Lama by tread
ing it by horses and turning it with shovels, after which
* At one end a small space is generally set apart for the assays,
which are made on one Monton each ; and at the other side are
two small tanks, in which the men and horses wash their legs after
treading out the Tortas.
f For this and other terms made use of see the Glossary at the
end.

AMALGAMATION. 281
the preparation is left in quiet for the remainder of the
day. This operation is called Ensalmorar, and the day
of rest Dia de Descanso. On the day following comes
El Incorporo. After about one hour's treading by horses,
the Magistral, or roasted and pulverized copper ore, is
mixed with the Lama (the repaso or treading still con
tinuing), in summer in the proportion of fifteen cargas
of twelve arobas to the Torta (if the ore is of six marcs
per Monton), and in winter in only hal f the quantity; for
it is a singular fact, that in summer the mixture cools
and requires more warmth, while in winter it acquires of
itself additional heat. With poorer ores, — as for instance
those of four marcs to the Monton, — twelve cargas are
applied in summer, and six in winter. From November to
February Cal (or lime) is also occasionally used to cool
the Lama, in the proportion of about a peck per Monton.
The Repaso, or treading out, is continued by six
horses, which are guided by one man, who stands in the
Lama and directs them by holding all their long halt
ers. This operation is much more effectual in a morn
ing than in the evening, and occupies about five or six
hours. When the Magistral is well mixed, the Azogue
(quicksilver) is applied, by being sprinkled through
pieces of coarse cloth doubled up like a bag, so that it
spurts out in very minute particles. The Repaso Fuerte
(or a second treading of the horses) then follows ; after

282 PROCESS OF
which the whole mixture is turned over by six men with
wooden shovels, who perform the operation in an hour.
The men are called Repasadores ; and the turning the
Torta, Traspallar. The Torta is then smoothed and
left at Descanso for one entire day, to allow of the in
corporation going forward. After every Repaso the
legs of the men and horses are carefully washed in small
tanks at one corner of the Patio. These are occasion
ally cleaned out, to collect any portions of amalgam
which may have been deposited. The Torta undergoes
the turning by shovels and treading by horses every other
day, until the Azoguero (or amalgamator) ascertains that
the Azogue del incorporo (or first admixture of quicksilver)
is found to have been all taken up by the silver ; and this
he does by vanning or washing a small quantity of the
Torta in a little bowl. A new supply is then added,
which is called el Cebo ; and when this is also found to
have done its duty, the Bano (another addition of quick
silver) is applied, in order to catch any stray particles
of silver which may yet remain ; and on the same day,
after a good Repaso, the Torta is removed on hand-bar
rows by the Cargadores (or labourers appointed to this
service) to the Tinas or Lavaderos, in order that it may
receive its final cleansing.
The general method of proportioning the quicksilver
to the Tortas, is by allowing that every Marco of silver

AMALGAMATION. 283
which is promised by trial of the ores as the probable
produce of a Monton, will require in the whole process
41bs. A Marco is eight ounces.
In metals of five to six marcs and a half the Monton,
(which was about the average richness of produce at Za
catecas,) 16lbs. of quicksilver is incorporated for every
Monton, = 900lbs. the Torta. On the day of Cebo the
proportion is 51bs. the Monton, = 300lbs. ; and when the
Torta is ready to receive the Bano, it is applied at the
rate of 71bs. the Monton, = 420lbs. : making a total of
1620lbs. of quicksilver. With poorer metals, — of four
marcs for instance, — the quicksilver is applied at the rate
of 9lbs. the Monton for the Incorporo . . = 540lbs.
Cebo 3lbs  =180
Bano 4lbs  = 240
Total  960lbs.
A smaller quantity of Magistral is also required in this
case ; as for instance, twelve cargas in summer and six
in the winter. It should also be observed, that it is some
times found necessary to add a second Cebo.
The usual time for the completion of the process of
amalgamation is from twelve to fifteen days in the sum
mer, and twenty to twenty-five days in the winter. This,
it must be observed, is less than a third of the time occu
pied at some other mines, and than half the period re
quired in some establishments which are even situated at

284 PROCESS OF
the same elevation and nearly under the same temperature.
I attribute this circumstance in some degree to the me
thod of amalgamation, but more so to the quantity be-
nificiated at a time in the large Tortas, which being
spread out flat, receive the influence of the sun's rays
throughout their thickness. In the generality of Mex
ican mines, only one Monton is mixed at a time ; and
the Lama is then piled in a small conical heap or Mon
ton. In summer the days of applying the Azogue are :—
El Incorporo, on the day following the Ensalmorar.
El Cebo, about the ninth day after the Incorporo.
El Bano, about the fifth day after the Cebo.
In winter, el Cebo takes place about the twelfth day
after the Incorporo, and the Bano about the ninth day
after the Cebo. Tina or Lavadero, Washing Vat.
There are two of these under cover at this Hacienda ;
and in them the prepared Tortas are washed, in order
that the earthy matters may pass off, and that the Pella
(or amalgam) may deposit itself at the bottom. In depth
these vats are about eight feet, and their diameter nine ;
they are well and firmly built of masonry, and the wash
ing is thus performed : — A large horizontal wheel work
ed by mules gives impetus to a vertical one turning a

AMALGAMATION. 285
small horizontal wheel fitted round a perpendicular
wooden shaft revolving on an iron pivot at the bottom
of the Tina. To the lower extremity of this shaft are
fitted four cross beams, from which long wooden teeth
rise to the height of five feet ; and their motion through
the water is very rapid, and sufficient to keep all the
lighter particles afloat, while the heavier ones sink be
neath their influence. The larger wheel is worked by
four mules, two at each extremity of a beam which
crosses it. These animals are changed every four hours ;
and there are three Paradas (or twelve mules) to each
Tina. The Ariadores, or drivers, receive each six reals
per diem, and one is attached to each Tina. The wash
ing water is supplied from two large tanks, on a some
what higher level than the rim of the Tinas, and which
are filled by a Noria, or water-engine, turned by two
mules. Four belong to this machine, and the Paradas,
are changed at the same time with those of the Taho
nas. One man attends them at their work, and receives
four reals a day.
It requires twelve hours work of one Tina to wash
a Torta properly. This operation is performed under
the particular superintendence of a Guarda Tina, at
fifteen dollars a week. Eight Cargadores (porters or
labourers expressly appointed to the duty) are employ
ed in carrying the prepared Lama of the Torta in hand-

286 PROCESS OF
barrows to the Tinas, and are paid according to the
distance of the Torta which is to be washed. Their
wages differ therefore from one real to one and a half a
man for each Torta. When the washing is completed,
one dollar is given amongst the cargadores for each
Tina they are to clear ; and nine reals are also paid
between them for the re-washing of the earth cleared
from the Tina in emptying it of the amalgam. Thus
four dollars two reals are distributed on every wash
ing day. The re-washing of the earth is performed
under proper inspection in a tank in the Lavaderia, by
means of large wooden bowls, which are most dex-
trously managed by the Cargadores. Old women called
Apuranderas then carry off the refuse earth, which they
wash again ; and they are paid at the rate of one real the
ounce, or two dollars the pound, for the Pellita or Pella
(amalgam) which they can procure from it. The whole
operation of washing is strictly watched by the Guarda
Tinas, the Azoguero, and the Dependientes or clerks of
the establishment ; and the Cargadores who have been
employed in the process are very carefully examined
upon leaving the place, to see that they have secreted
no Pella about their persons.
Notwithstanding the attention which is paid to the
washing process, a portion of the amalgam is unavoid
ably carried off by the stream of water and earthy mat-

AMALGAMATION. 287
ters ; and this deposits itself with part of the Magistral
in the channels for the washing water, which are ac
cordingly often cleared out. This deposit called Mar-
maja is brought to be washed again in the tank in the
Lavaderia, after which it is delivered over to the Apu
randeras, to receive its final cleaning.
The amalgam, which from the application of the
third portion of quicksilver called the Bano is in a very
liquid state, is carefully carried in bowls into the
Azogueria,
where the process of straining the active or uncombined
quicksilver from the amalgam is performed. The name
of "Azogue'' still continues to be applied to the amalgam
until all the uncombined quicksilver is drained from
it, which is performed, after it has been carefully weigh
ed, by pouring it into a large long bag suspended by
strong hide ropes from a cross-beam over a kind of vat
of masonry smoothly plastered within, and capable of
containing about two hogsheads. This bag, called
Manga, has its upper part of strong well sewed lea
ther, and the lower or pointed end of a thick kind of
canvass very closely woven. Through this the uncom
bined quicksilver very speedily finds its way ; and as
it filters off, the mass begins to harden in the bag, until
at length it acquires sufficient consistency to bear being

2S8 PROCESS OF
formed in moulds ; when it is taken out and weighed
again, so as to ascertain the quantity of quicksilver which
has drained from it. The amalgam is then beaten
down into a wedge-shaped mould. The portion thus
moulded is called Marqueta, and weighs 30lbs. Three
of these wedges are ranged side-by-side on a small
stool, and when all are ready they are carried into the
Quemadero, or Burning-House.
In the first place the Marquetas, to the number of
eleven, are arranged in a close circle on a solid copper
stand called Baso, having a round hole in the centre.
This layer is called a Cuerpo ; — others then follow until
the number of wedges are all disposed of, and the pile
is called Pina. The " Cuerpos" are squeezed tightly
together by a rope being drawn round them ; and such
is the tenacity of the amalgam, that it does not break.
The Baso, previous to the formation of the Pina, is
placed over a pipe leading to a small tank of water into
which the quicksilver trickles during the process ; and
from the peculiar formation of the Marquetas a conti
nuous hole, of the same size as that in the Baso, is left
in the centre of the Pina, for the free passage of the
quicksilver, as it is forced from the amalgam by heat.
A large bell-shaped copper cover called Capellina is
now hoisted up, and carefully lowered over the Piiia by

AMALGAMATION. 289
means of pulleys ; and a strong luting of ashes, sal
tierra, and lama, is applied to its lower edge, and made
to fit very closely to the plate on which stands the Baso.
A wall of fire-bricks is then built loosely round the Ca-
pellina ; and charcoal in the proportion of three Capas
(the inclosed space filled thrice) for each Cuerpo being
supplied, from time to time it continues burning all
night. During this process the quicksilver trickles down
into a Pileta or little tank of water, from whence it is
afterwards, when quite cool, collected and weighed, in
order that the quantity lost in the burning may be cor
rectly ascertained. On the following morning, (usually
Saturday,) after about twenty hours burning, the bricks
and ashes are removed, the luting broken, and the Ca-
pellina hoisted up. The Plata Quemada (burnt silver)
is then found in a hard mass, which is broken as nearly
as possible into its first shape by the Partidor de Plata,
with a wedge and sledge-hammer. It is then again
weighed ; and being put into leathern bags, in the quan
tity of 67-J-lbs. or 135 marcs to each, is carried to the
Casa de Fundicion (Casting-House),
where it is made into bars by a very simple process.
This place contains a common pair of furnace-bellows,
the nozzle of which projects through a wall ; and op-
VOL. II. u

290 PROCESS OF
posite this is placed an iron cage called El Craz, which
stands over a small machine (Jantilla), named I be
lieve, in England, a double-handed ladle, into which the
metal falls in melting. A portion of the Plata Que
mada, viz. the contents of one of the leathern sacks, or
135 marcs, with a quantity of charcoal, is piled in the
ladle ; and being exposed to the blast from the bellows,
in about twenty-three minutes melts down into the re
ceptacle below, whence it is poured into a stone or iron
mould called " Ladrillera," (well lined with a prepara
tion of fine clay,) in which it is formed into bars in the
form of a pig of lead, seventeen inches long, by six wide
and two and a half deep, termed Barra de Plata, Each
of these weighs as nearly as possible, 135 Marcos, of 8
ounces, = 1080 ounces. The loss in burning is averaged
at about 5 ounces to each Barra, and the total loss of quick
silver in the whole process, comprehending Patio, Tina,
Quemadero snAFundicion, is at about the following rates :
With good metals (that is to say above six marcs), it
loses two and a half to three per cent. With coarser
metals eight to nine per cent : — and the average loss at
our Hacienda was from seven to eight per cent.
The bars are sent to the Veta on the Saturday ; on
the following Monday they are carried to the Mint
{Casa de Moneda) in Zacatecas ; and on the ensuing
Friday their amount in dollars is received.

AMALGAMATION. 291
The expenses of the coinage are (for Veta Grande
alone, other mines paying twenty reals) as follows :
Twelve reals for each hundred marcs Fundicion and
essay.
Three per cent ad valorem the silver.
Two reals each marc for coinage.
There is also a further impost of one and a half per
cent, under the head of Direcho di Mineria.
Magistral (Copper Ore roasted and finely pulverized)
is of two kinds ; the Abronzado or Negro, which is a very
rich gray ore ; and the Cobriso, of an inferior quality.
The first is purchased at from five to five dollars and
a half the carga, of twelve arobas, and delivered at the
Hacienda. The latter costs fifteen to twenty reales the
carga. It is procured from the copper mines of Tepi-
sala, at the Asientos de Ybarra, twenty leagues to the
southward of Zacatecas ; in which district are also some
silver mines. At these works the copper is also smelted
in great quantities.
The first process through which the ore is put at the
Hacienda, is to reduce it by breaking (granzear), to a
fine powder between two large stones, for which is
paid one real and a half for every carga crushed in
this very laborious manner. This Granza is then ground
to a paste in a Tahona, after which it is spread out to
u 2

292 PROCESS OF
dry on the ground ; and having been well beaten, to
break any lumps which may have formed, it is mixed
with some of the Magistral from the washings of the
Marmaja. The best ore, (abronzado,) requires an ad
mixture of one-third of this. The inferior is mixed
with one-half. In this state it is put into furnaces, which
each takes two cargas. Seven of these are constantly at
work, fed by the wood of the Yucca-tree. Each fur
nace expends two Carreta (cart) loads a week, and these
on an average are at three dollars the load.
To attend to the preparation of the Magistral there is
a Quemadero (or burner), at five dollars a week ; and one
Peon (labourer) to each furnace, at four reals the day.
Sal Blanca. Saltierra. (White salt. Salt earth.)
The Sal Blanca and Saltierra are muriate of soda,
which is procured as an efflorescence from low salt
marshes in various parts of Mexico. That from which
this Hacienda is supplied is at a place called Salinas
(Penon Blanco of Humboldt), three days journey for
carretas, and lying about thirty leagues to the eastward
of Veta Grande. It is the property of Government, and
yields a great revenue, now that the mines are again in
activity. The price of the Sal Blanca is from three to
three and a half dollars the Fanega (five Fanegas are
equal to eight bushels) ; and the Fleyte (or carriage,)

AMALGAMATION. 293
three to four reals. The Saltierra, which is so intimately
blended with a light clayey earth that its nature can
only be ascertained by the taste, is much cheaper, and
is on an average procured at seven reals the Fanega :
four of which are for the purchase, and three for the
conveyance in two-wheeled cars or waggons, drawn by
eight bullocks each.
The payment from the Hacienda to the Salinas is
not expected before the expiration of one year after
the delivery of the salt.
The quantity generally used is two fanegas and a half
to the Monton : but in cases where saltierra is not at
hand or sufficiently abundant, one fanega of Saltierra
and an Almud and a half of Sal Blanca may be used for
each Monton. An Almud is the twelfth part of a fa
nega. Experiments on temperature of Tortas, at Sauceda.
Air 68° in the shade : day gloomy at 7 a.m.
A Torta about to be washed; the whole process
having been completed was at 63°.
A Torta eight days beneficio, 63° : several others the
same. A heap of dry Magistral 80° ; a handful wetted 114°.
A heap of dry Marmaja 76° ; a handful wetted 80°.
Saltierra dry 63° ; water in a tank 65°-

294 PROCESS OF
A Torta immediately after the admixture of Magis
tral by Repaso Fuerte, only increased its temperature
from 63° to 64°-5.
An exact statement of the cost of beneficiating one
Monton of metal, supposing its " ley" to be six
marcs, allowing one pound and a half of quicksil
ver as its loss for each pound, which is the utmost
that should be expended in the whole quantity.
For crushing by stamp six cargas eight arobas
= 2000lbs. English, at one real and a half per 1 £
carga  1 2
For grinding to paste, including the cost of Ta
honas, mules, Tahoneros, and Metapiles (or
grinding-stones) each in proportion to its daily
expense or waste  1 5
For two fanegas and a half of Saltierra, at seven
reals  2 ] -j-
For three arobas of Magistral, at the rate of four
dollars the carga  1 0
For ten Repasos, at one real each  1 2
For washing a Monton  0 3
For burning the silver  0 2
Expenses of the people who work and attend the
process  1 0
For 41b. 8oz. of quicksilver consumed and ex
pended or lost, at the rate of six reals the
pound  3 3
Total  12 2-j.

AMALGAMATION. 295
As the ores increase in richness the expenditure is
greater, in the proportion of eight ounces of quicksilver
for every marc of increased value. Thus ores of twenty-
six marcs to the Monton, would cost seven dollars and
a half more ; = lOlbs. of quicksilver.

Appendix III.
GLOSSARY.
Abronzado. Yellow copper ore (sulphuret of copper)
which is burnt for magistral.
Administrador. The principal superintendant, who has
charge and responsibility of the whole esta
blishment, ore, and distribution of money, &c.
Albanil. The bricklayer or mason.
Almadanetas. Iron stamp-heads.
Almud. The twelfth part of a fanega.
Apuradores. Men who re-wash the earth from the tinas.
Apuranderas. Old women who re-wash the ore after
it has been washed in the tinas.
Arnero. A slope covered with leather perforated with
small holes, over which the crushed ore is
made to slide, and allowing the portions which
are sufficiently small to run through into the
holes below.
Aroba. Twenty-five pounds weight.
Arrayador. » A driver ; he who drives the mules in the
Arreador. S malacates or stamps.
Arrieros. Muleteers.
Asogue. Quicksilver. This name is also applied, but

GLOSSARY. 297
improperly, to metals capable of being amal
gamated.
Asogueria. The room set apart for separating the amal
gam from the active quicksilver, for weighing
the " Pella," and forming it into " Cuerpos."
Atisador. The dresser of magistral.
Ayudante Azoguero. Assistant to the azoguero.
Azoguero. The amalgamator. This is an office of con
siderable importance, much experience being
required in conducting the process.
Banguillos. Stools on which the marquetas are placed.
Bano. The last portion of quicksilver applied to a
torta, literally as a bath to overflow the
amalgam and collect it all, that none escapes.
Baril. A cask ; those used to carry lama are slung to
a pole.
Barra. A bar. A term used in the division of profits
or property in a mine, which it is the custom
to consider as divided into twenty-four bars
or shares. Thus a proprietor of the half-share
of a mine is said to hold twelve barras of it.
Barra de Plata. A bar of silver is 135 marcs, or 1080oz.
Barratero. The working miner.
Bat'ea apuradera. Bowl used in the re-washings.
Baxo. The lower part ; the term is applied to the base
on which the phatillo rests.

298 GLOSSARY.
Bota. Large skin bag in whiiih the water is drawn from
the mine.
Brazuelos. Cogs of the master-wheel.
Burrdda. A jackass.
Cadena de la Naria. Chain for the buckets of the
wheel which draws water from the well.
Cajon de Granza. The name of the pit to receive the
crushed ore.
Cajonero. One who receives the manta or bota at the
shaft's mouth.
Canal. The water spout for " Tina."
Candellero. A socket deeper than the chumacera, and
used for the same purpose. (See Chumacera.)
Capellina. A large bell-shaped hood of copper be
neath which the amalgam is burnt for the
purpose of extracting the quicksilver by di
stillation.
Capitan de Galera. The person in charge of the sheds
under which the tahonas are worked.
Capitan del Patio. Chief ore dresser who has charge
of the amalgamation floor, and sees that it is
cleaned and in order at the close of each day's
work.
Caporal. Chief stable-man.
Carcamo. The drain which carries off the earthy mat
ter from the tinas when washing the amal-

GLOSSARY. 299
gam. This is frequently cleared out and
washed for quicksilver.
Carga. Twelve arobas, = 300lbs.
Cargador. One whose duty consists in carrying the
amalgam to the tinas and in cleaning them
out.
Carena. An upright stanchion for supporting ma
chinery.
Castillo. The frame of the stamping machine.
Cebo. The second addition of quicksilver to the "Torta."
Chapas. Iron blocks on which the stamps fall.
Chumacira. An iron socket for the spindles of shafts.
(See Candelero.)
Cobriso. An inferior kind of copper ore : sometimes
the term is applied to iron pyrites.
Colero. Assistant of the under-ground captain in charge
of the peonada or account of daily labour.
Contra Cajonero. He who carries away the stuff sent
up the shaft. (See Cajonero.)
Corraleros. Stable-men.
Correa. The person in charge of the corral or stables.
Cras. An iron cage or frame into which with a quan
tity of charcoal the burnt silver is put for its
final process of melting ; from the cras it
falls into the Jantilla; — which see.
Criba. Perforated leather through which the stamped

300 GLOSSARY.
ore falls when sufficiently fine into a pit be
neath.
Cruces. The cross pieces of the grinding mills.
Cubo. A leather or other bucket.
Cuchara de Cuerno. A small horn bowl in which the
earth of the tortas is washed, in order to as
certain from time to time the progress of the
amalgamation.
Cuerpo. Is the wedge-shaped mass of hard amalgam
formed in a mould preparatory to burning.
A number of tiers of cuerpos form a pina.
Dependientes. A name applied to the inferior officers
and clerks of the establishment.
Descanso, dia de. The day on which the tortas are
left at rest.
Destajero. A labourer working by the piece. In mines
the term is applied to the working miner em
ployed on tut work.
Dientes. The cogs on a large wheel which receive those
of the smaller.
Ege. The axis of a wheel.
Ensalmorar. The act of mixing the saltierra with the
lama : — the first process in amalgamation.
Espeque. The cross lever of the noria or tahona, to
which the mules are harnessed.
Fanega. A measure of capacity, equal to 1*599 En-

GLOSSARY. 301
glish bushel. Five fanegas are therefore very
nearly equal to eight bushels.
Fuelles. The bellows used in the fundicion, &c.
Fundicion. The process of melting the burned silver
into bars.
Galera. A shed.
Granza. The crushed dry ore as it comes from the
stamps.
Greta. Litharge.
Gualdra. The large cross beam in which the upper
spindles of the shafts of machinery traverse.
Guarda Tinas. He who superintends the washing of
the amalgam in the vats or tinas.
Guarda Tiro. A man who takes account of the stuff
brought up the shaft where he is stationed.
Guijo. The iron spindle of the shaft of machinery.
Homos de Magistral. Roasting stoves for copper ore.
Incorporo. The first mixing of the quicksilver with the
lama.
Jantilla. A double handed ladle into which the melted
silver falls from the cras.
Ladrillera. An iron or stone mould in which the melted
silver is poured in order to form the barra.
Lama. Ore ground into a fine paste by the tahonas.
Lamero. The lama when merely thickened by admix
ture with saltierra.

302 GLOSSARY.
Lavaderos. Amalgam-washers.
Lentermillas. Large vertical wheels of the stamping
apparatus.
Macero. He who has the charge and direction of crush
ing and grinding the ore in the tahonas pre
vious to amalgamation.
Magistral. An ore of sulphuret of copper mixed with
iron, which is roasted and pulverized, and
mixed with the lama to decompose the ores of
silver in the process of amalgamation.
Magistraleros. Men who burn the copper ore.
Mandadero. " Daily messenger.
Manta. The leather bag in which the ore is sent up
the shaft.
Mantero. One who carries away rubbish and clearings
in the levels below.
Marmaja. The deposit, chiefly of metallic matters col
lected from the washings of the torta in se
parating the amalgam. It is burnt, and the
copper and iron pyrites are again used in cer
tain proportions with fresh magistral.
Masos. Stamping staves, to which the almadanetas
are fixed.
Mayordomo. Chief of the arrieros.
Metapiles. Grindstones used in the tahonas.
Minero. Under-ground captain.

GLOSSARY. 303
Minero Mayor. Chief miner.
Molineros. Men employed in crushing ore with the
stamps or molinos.
Molinete. Shaft of tina.
Molino. The stamping or crushing machine.
Mulero. Chief muleteer.
Noria. Machine for raising water.
Pala. Spade of wood.
Palero. Timber-man ; from Palo (wood).
Palero Mayor. Chief timber-man.
Parada. A relief or change of men, mules, or horses.
Parihuela. Hand-barrow.
Patio. The amalgamation-floor.
Peon. Labourer.
Peon. Shaft of horizontal grand wheel.
Pepena. Picked ore.
Pico. Sledge-hammer for breaking pina.
Pina. (See Cuerpo.)
Platillo. Small cog-wheel.
Polvorero. Powder-man.
Portero. Porter at the gate.
Quebrador. Ore-breaker.
Quemador. The burner and director of magistral.
Quintal. One hundred pounds weight.
Ramplones. Uprights.
Rayador. Grass captain, or accountant.

304 GLOSSARY.
Reatas. Cords used for lashings.
Repasadores. Men who turn over the tortas or drive
the horses in the repaso.
Rescate. Purchase of ore.
Rescatador. Purchaser of ore.
Sahuan. The door of entrance.
Sal Blanca. Salt, or muriate of soda.
Saltierra. Salt mixed with earthy impurities. (See
vol. i. page 195.)
Tahona. The grinding mill for the granza or crushed ore.
Tahoneros. Men who attend the grinding of the ore
in the tahonas.
Tajadera. Wedge to break the tina.
Tajamanil. Thin wooden shingles for roofing.
Tasas., The bowls of the tahonas.
Tequesquite. Carbonate of soda.
Tina. The vat in which the amalgamated ores, are
washed to obtain the amalgam.
Triangulo. The cogs of the stamps.
Valiente. A substitute.
Velador. A watchman.
Zorra. A lad who attends the chief miner under
ground.

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