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MALTA: MUIR. 1872. The right of Translation is reserved. THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRTTS HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE FOLLOWING AGENTS : — Germany, Holland, and Belgium. MANNHEIM . ARTARIA 4 FONTAINE.- AIX-LA- 1 CHAPELLE f AMSTERDAM'.ANTWERPBADEN-BADEN BERLIN . BRUSSELS CARLSRUHE . COLOGNE. DRESDENFRANKFURT . GRATZ . THE HAGUE . HAMBURGHEIDELBERG.KISSINGEN LEIPZIG . I.A.MAYER. J. MULLER.— W. KIRBERGER. METZ KORNICKER. MUNICH . D. R. MARX. NURNBERG ASHER. PESTH . MUQUARDT. — KIESSLING. A. BIELEFELD. PRAGUE . GUEVEN.-NELTE A CO. ROTTERDAM ARNOLD. C. JUGEL. STRASBURG LEUSCHNER A LUBENSKY. NIJHOFF A CO. STUTTGART MAUKE SOHNE. TRIESTE . MOHR. VIENNA . JUGEL. WIESBADEN BROCKHAUS.— DURR. Switzerland. LOFFLER.— KOTTER. , WARION. , H. MANZ. . SCHRAG.— ZEISER. , HARTLEBEN.— G.HECKENAST. — OSTERLAMM.— RATH . , CALVE. . KRAMERS.— PETRI. — : ,, , ROBBERS. **T . TREUTTEL ET WURTZ.— .\ GRUCKER.— DERIVA'ftX. P NEFF ! MUNSTER.— COEN. . C. GEROLD.— BRAUMULLER. . KREIDEL. BASLE . BERNE . COIRE CONSTANCEGENEVA . LAUSANNELUCERNE. BOLOGNA FLORENCE GENOA . LEGHORN LUCCA . MANTUA . MILAN . MODENA . NAPLES . PALERMO AMIENS . ANGERS . AVIGNONAVRANCHES . BAYONNE BORDEAUX BOULOGNE BREST . CAEN CALAIS . CANNES . CHERBOURGDIEPPE . DINANT . DOUAI DUNKERQUE GRENOBLE. HAVRE . LILLE LYONS . GIBRALTAR LISBON . ST. PETERS-) BURG. } MOSCOWil. Malta. MUIR. H. GEORG.— H. AMBERGER. DA LP.— JEUT A REINERT. GRUBENMANN. MECK. H. GEORG DESROGIS.— CHERBULIEZ.— F. RICHARD. T. ROCSSY. F. KAISER. NEUCHATEL . GERSTER. SCHAFFHAUSEN HCRTER. SOLEURE. ST. GALLEN ZURICH . JENT. HUBER. ^N H. FUSSLI A CO.— MEYER A ZELLER.— ^ H. F. LEUTHOLD, Posl- Italy. MARSIGLI & ROCCHI. GOODBAN. GRONDONA A CO.— ANTODJE BEUF. MAZZAJOLI.F. BARON. NEGRETTI.ARTARIA. — DUMOLARD. FRERES.— G. BRIGOLA. L. RONCHI. VINCENZI Sl ROSSI. DORANT. PEDONE. ev PARMA . PISA . PERUGIA.ROME SIENA . TURIN . J. ZANGHIERI. ^ NISTRI.^IOS. VANNCCCHL, VINCENZ. BARTELL1. U SPITHOVER.— PIALE.— -^ MONALDINI. ,^-yTN ONORATO PORRI. MAGGI.— L. BEUF.— MA- RIETTI.— BOCCA FRERES. , MUNSTER. — COEN.— MEINERS. , H. F. MUNSTER.— MEINERS. <.i France. 5'Jti. CAKON BARASSE'. CLE'MENT ST. JUST. ANFRAY. JAYMEBON.— LASSERRE. CHAUMAS.— MOLLER.— SAU- VAT.— FERET. MF.RRIDEW.— WATEL. HEBERT.BOISARD. — LEGOST. — CLE- RISSE'. RIGAUX CAUX. BARBERY.— TAYLOR ROBANDY. Mlls. LECOUFFLET. MARA1S.COSTE. A JACQUART LEMALE. VANDENBUSSCHE.VELLOT ET COMP. BOUHDIGNON.— FOUCHER.— Mmb. BUYS. BE'GHIN.AYNE' FILS.— SCHEURING.— ME'RA. MARSEILLES . MONTPELLIER NANCY . NANTES . NICEORLEANS. PARIS . PAU . PERP1GNAN . REIMSROCHEFORT . ROUEN . SAUMUR . ST. ETIENNE . ST. MALO. ST. QCENTIN . TOULON . TOULOUSE TOURSTftOYES . ROWSWELL MATT. LEWTAS. Spain and Portugal. I MADRID . MALAGA , Russia, Sweden, Denmark, and Norway. CAMOIN FRERES.— j MEUNIER. j LEVALLE. <"^- GONET. PETIPAS.-POIRIER LEGROS. —ANDRE'. BARBERY FRERES.— JOUGLA GATINEAU.— PESTY. GALIGNANI. —XAVIER AND BOYVEAU. LAFON. JULIA FRERES. BRISSART BINET.— GEOFFROY.— GIRET. - ' BOUCARD. «T LEBRUMENT.— HAULARD. GAULTIER BRIE'RE. DELARUE. \ HUE. *" DOLOY. _ MONGE ET VILLAMUS. I GIMET A COTELLE. _ s GEORGET. T LALOY.— DUFEY ROBERT. J DURAN.— BAILLIERE. FR. DE MOYA. WATKINS.— WOLFF. GAUTIER.— DEUBNER LANG. Ionian Islands. CORFU . J. W. TAYLOR. CHRISTIANIA . BENNETT. STOCKHOLM . FRITZE. DV *&, Constantinople. Greece. WICK a WEISS. ATHENS, KARL WILRERG. PREFACE. A residence in Rome during more than a quarter of a century has enabled the Author to revise completely this work upon the spot, and to render it, as he trusts his readers will find, considering the limits to which it has been necessary to restrict it, as correct a Guide to the Eternal City as exists in any language. He has endeavoured to convey in it every in formation required by the great majority of travellers ; and for those who may desire to enter into minuter details, he has pointed out the prin cipal sources from which they can be derived. Considerable changes having taken place of late years in the arrange ment of all the Public and Private Galleries, it has been necessary to remodel the notices of them ; and in giving more correct lists of their contents, plans of all have been introduced, which will facilitate consider ably their examination. The same has been done as respects some of the most interesting Ecclesiastical Edifices. The section which includes the Environs of Rome has been considerably extended in the later editions, for the most part from the Author's personal examination ; the notices on all the most important sites have been brought down to the latest period. The interest which the early Christian Cemeteries are now attracting has induced the Author to give a more detailed description of the Catacombs ; and the want of any general description of the Physical State and Geology of the region in and about the city has led him to insert brief notices on these subjects. The Author begs to refer his antiquarian readers, for more extended in formation on the topography and monuments of the ancient city, to the article on Ancient Home in Dr. W. Smith's 'Dictionary of Classical Geography,' which is now published in a separate form. Chronological Tables ot the Sovereigns who have ruled over Eome, from llomulus to Pius IX., and of the principal events during the republican period; a list, ot the most remarkable Church Ceremonies during the year ; a notice on the constitution of the Soman Nobility ; and a list of Biding Excursions in the environs of the city, have been added. The information so useful to the foreigner arriving in Eome, under the head of General Information, with the very latest changes and discoveries, has been carefully revised, and brought down to the most recent period. J. B. P. Rome, April, 1872. a 2 ( iv ) MODES OF REACHING EOME. HINTS AS TO ROUTES. Although the different routes leading to Rome are more fully described in the Handbooks of Northern and Central Italy, the following information may be useful to travellers who may not have these volumes at hand. A. The most direct and economical route from London and Paris will be by the tunnel under the Oottian Alps to Turin, and from there by Bologna, Florence, and Perugia, or from Bologna by Leghorn and Civita Vecchia. The inconvenience of cross ing the Alps, which formerly deterred many from adopting it in winter, through fear of exposing themselves to a trajet of 10 hours by the Post road between St. Michel and Susa, is now avoided, the journey being performed by rail since the opening in 1871 of the Great Tunnel between Modane and Bardoneche. Distance from London, by Calais, 1290 miles ; steamer and railway charges, 12?. by express trains, on which, in Italy, an additional 20 per cent, on the fares is charged ; time employed in travelling, from Paris 44 hours, from London 55, by trains corresponding with each other, not including detentions on the road. B. From London to Rome, by Paris, Marseilles, Nice, Genoa, Spezzia, Leghorn, and Civita Vecchia. The inconvenience of this route for the present is, that the part of it between Sestri di Levante and Spezzia, must be performed by carriage, or between Nice and Spezzia by sea, but this will be soon removed by the com pletion of the Ligurian Railways. Expenses by railway, diligence and steamer, from London, about 11?. 10s. ; time employed, 60 hours. C. From London to Rome, 1872, along the Mediterranean, avoiding the Alps, by Paris, Nice, Mentone, Savona, Genoa to Sestri by rail, from there to Spezzia by car riage, and thence by rail to Rome ; or from Nice to Leghorn by the excellent steamers of the Peirano-Danovaro Company, and thence by railway ; Sestri to Spezzia by carriage in 6 hrs. ; thence by rail to Rome. Expense of travelling about HZ. 10s. In the early winter this will be perhaps the easiest, and for invalids the most convenient route ; the journey, about 63 hours, not including necessary stoppages. The railway from Sestri to Spezzia is nearly finished. D. London to Rome, by Paris to Nice (rail), thence to Genoa and Leghorn and Civita Vecchia by the steamers of the Peirano-Danovaro Company ; or from Leghorn to Rome by rail through Civita Vecchia. Expenses of travelling about 10Z. 10s. ; time employed 65 hrs. In the early winter the two latter routes will be the most convenient, especially for invalids. E. From London to Rome, by Paris, Munich, Inspruck, the Brenner Pass, Verona, Padua, Bologna, Florence, and Perugia. Distance from London, 1547 miles. Railway all the way from Calais: at present this is the only unbroken line of railway between Calais and Rome, as well as Routes A, B, C, D. Time employed in travelling, 71 J hours; expenses, 112. 16s. and 8?. 12s. F. Persons not wishing to pass through Paris, and by the Cenis Pass, can proceed by way of Calais, or Ostend to Brussels, Luxembourg to Strasburg and Munich, or from Brussels to Cologne, Mainz, and Munich, and thence to Rome, as in last route. Tickets are issued on this route from Strasburg, Cologne, and Munich to Rome, by which the traveller is allowed 25 kil. of free luggage, and can remain 30 days on his route. Fares from London by Calais and Brussels, about 12?. 4s. and 8?. 18s. G. By Turin (Route A), or Milan, and Venice, through Bologna and Ancona, to Rome. Distance from Turin to Rome, 551 miles; from Milan, 444- and 412 MODES OF REACHING EOME. V from VeniceJ^Time employed from Turin in travelling, 25 hours; from Milan, 22| ; and 24 hours rom Venice. Railway expenses, 4?. Is., 3?. 12s., and 3?, 4s. respectively from each of these cities. Instead of proceeding by Ancona, the route from Bologna to Florence, and from there to Rome by Perugia, may be preferred, in whicli the distance from Turin will be 532 miles, from Milan 425, from Verona 438, pud Venice 393. The times employed in travelling respectively, 26, 25, 22, and 23 hours ; and the expenses by rail, 3?. 18s. 6d„ 31. 10s., and 3?. 3s. By Bologna and Pistoia (avoiding Florence) to Leghorn, and from there to Rome, distances and expenses nearly the same. H. By Marseilles, and from there by sea to Civita Vecchia, thence to Rome by rail. The advantages of this mode of travelling will be, saving of time, and economy as regards charges on overweight of luggage, which are considerable on the Italian railways. This route is now less frequented than formerly. I. From Naples to Rome by rail in 7 hours; distance 162 miles; expenses of railway, ]?. Is. and 14s. Id. by ordinary trains ; 1?. 4s. 9d. and 16s. 9d. by express. K. Travellers proceeding to India by the overland mail can take the rail by Rome, either by way of Ancona or Naples ; by leaving Rome on Saturday evening, or even Sunday morning, Brindisi can be reached by rail on Monday morning at 4 a.m. ; the steamers from that port for Alexandria starting on Monday at 5 a.m. From Naples to Brindisi also by rail in less time, or in about 20 hrs. %* The times above stated are those actually on the road, and by the express or direct trains, whicli in France generally only take tirst-class passengers, and in Italy make an additional charge of 20 per cent, on the ordinary fares for both classes ; in France, 60 lbs. of luggage are allowed free of charge ; none in Italy, except what is carried in the railway-carriage by the traveller. Passports.— For English and Americans the best passports will be those of the Secretaries of State at London or Washington although those of any diplomatic or consular functionary of their Governments on the Continent will be equally received. Although passports are now very seldom demanded of English and American travellers, still they will always do well to be pro vided with them, as certificates of their national identity. C vi ) LIST OP PLANS. PAGE The Roman Forum 22 The Forum and the adjoining Buildings to face 24 The Palace of the Csesars 29 House of Tiberius Claudius Nero to face 31 St. Peter's 105 Crypt of St. Peter's 112 Basilica of S. Lorenzo 136 S. Agnese (with section) 141 San Clemente — Modern Church 151 „ Ancient Basilica 154 The Vatican — Museum to face 207 Pinacotheca at the Vatican 241 Palace of the Conservators at the Capitol — Ground Floor . . . 257 „ „ „ Upper Floor .... 259 Museum of the Capitol — Ground Floor 264 „ „ Upper Floor , 266 Lateran Palace and Museum — Ground Floor 272 ,, „ Upper Floor 275 Barberini Gallery 283 Borghese Gallery 285 Colonna Gallery 290 Corsini Gallery 293 Doria Gallery 295 Sciarra Gallery 304 Gallery of Academy of St. Luke 313 Gallery at the Casino of the Villa Borghese — Ground Floor . . . 339 Cubiculi in Catacombs of S. Agnese 352 , The part of the Catacombs of St. Callixtus containing the Papal Crypt . 356 Villa Adriana 37g Tomb near the Fiora at Vulci 475 Map of Environs of Rome to face 366 Plan of Eome at the end. . CONTENTS. „„~~. — , — „ — page Preface iit Modes of reaching Eome . iv General Information : — Hotels, Tradespeople, Passports, Government and Statistics of, and Books on, Rome, Artists' Studios, &c ix Chronological Tables xlv!^ Stranger's Diary in Rome liii Church Festivals and Ceremonies ....... Uv Public Edifices in Rome, 1872 Ivii Section I.— DESCRIPTION OF ROME. General Topography 1 Rioni. . . 2 Walls and Gates *> Bridges . . 6 Panoramic View * ' The Seven Hills I3 Antiquities in general }^ Forums . . 20 Palaces . . 2^ Temples 35 Amphitheatres, Theatres, and Circuses 49 Columns ... 5^ Arches .... 5 Baths .... 62 Tombs and Columbaria . "' Aqueducts ... ®} Miscellaneous Antiquities ^* Obelisks. ... 9L Buildings of the Middle Ages . 9* Fountains 97 Piazzas . . 99 Promenades, &c. Basilicas . . " Churches. . If Palaces and Public Museums A~~ Private Palaces and Galleries " m Historical Houses ' ' Colleges, Academies, and Educational Establishments 309 Hospitals and Charitable Institutions Protestant Cemetery Crimate of Rome S28 Geology of Country about Rome Villas S35347 Catacombs General Local Arrangement . Section II. The Environs of Rome 36fi Index ... 488 HANDBOOK OF ROME AND ITS ENVIRONS. GENERAL INFORMATION. CONTENTS. § 6. § 7. §8. § 9- § 10. § H. § 12.13. 14. §§ § 15. 16. 17.18. § 19. 20. 21. § 22. §§§ 23 24 25. § § 26 27 28. Page Hotels ix Lodgings and House Agents xi Trattorie, Restaurateurs . xii Cafie's xiii Provisions, Articlesof House keeping, Markets, &c. . xiii Passports and Police Regu lations xiv Clubs xv Public Conveyances . . . xv Railways xv Steamers to and from Civita Vecchia, on the Upper and Lower Tiber .... xvi EnglishLivery Stables.Horses for hire, Hackney Coaches, Carriages for hire . . xvii Foreign Ministers&Consuls xviii Bankers — Money-changers xviii Post-Office, Electric Tele graph — Roman News papers six Medical men . . . . xx Dentists and Corncutters . xxi Chemists and Apothecaries xxi Booksellers, English Read ing - Rooms, Circulating Libraries xxi Engravings and Printsellers xxii Photographs .... xxii Teachers of Italian and other Languages . . . xxiii Teachers of Drawing and Painting .... xxiv Music Teachers . . . xxiv Music Shops . . . xxiv English Masters, Daily Go verness XXV French Masters . . . xxv German Masters . . . xxv Teachers of Dancing. . xxv § 29, § 30. d. e. /• 9-h. i. k. I. in. n. P- § 31. § 32. 33. 34. .35.36.37. 38. § 39. § 40. § 41. § 42. § 43. § 44. § 45. § 46. § 47. § 48. § 49. Page Fencing Master . . . xxv Tradespeople, Shops, &c. xxv Grocers. Wine Merchants. English Bakers. Milk and Buttermen. Cheesemongers. Pastry-cooks, Confectioners. Tailors. Boot and Shoe Makers. Hatters.Saddlery. Tobacconists. Modistes, Dressmakers. Roman Scarfs and Costumes. Coiffeurs, Hairdressers, Per fumery. Opticians. Translators .... xxvii Copyists of Old Masters . xxvii Jewellers xxvii Watchmaker .... xxvii Cameo Engravers . . . xxvii Roman Mosaics . . . xxviii Bronzes xxviii Wood and Ivory Carvings xxvii Intagli and Sulphur In- pronti xxix Drawing Materials . . . xxix Roman Pearls, Rosaries . xxix Old Lace xxix Dealers in Pictures . . xxix Dealers in Antiquities . xxix Baths xxix Ciceroni, Laquais de place xxix Conveyance of Parcels to England, Commission Agents, &c xxx Sporting and Hunting . xxx English Chapel, Protest ant Divine Worship . xxx Rome. § 1. HOTELS. Page § 50. Theatres xxxi § 51. Public Festivals at Rome and in the Environs . xxxi § 52. Presentations of Foreign ers to the Pope . . xxxiii § 53. Roman Nobility, Titles, Ranks, &c. ... xxxiii § 54. Population, &c. . . .xxxvii § 55. Books on Rome and its Environs . . . xxxviii Pack § 56. Maps of Rome and its Environs .... xiii § 57. Artists' Studios . . . xliii § 58. Tables of Roman Coins, Measures, Weights . xlvii § 59. Chronological Tables . xlviii § 60. Stranger's Diary . . . liii § 61. List of Ch. Ceremonies . liv § 62. List of Public Edifices . Ivii § 63. Suppressed Convents . . lviii § 1. Hotels. The greater number of the hotels frequented by foreigners are situated near the N. extremity of the city, in the space comprised between the Porta del Popolo, the Piazza di Spagna, the Via Condotti, Piazza Barbcrini, the Pincian hill, and the Tiber. Hotel d'Angleterre in the Via Bocca di Leone, near the Via Condotti, in the most central and one of the healthiest situations in Rome, is in every respect a most comfortable and well managed house, with accommodation well suited for families and bachelors, charges more moderate than at some other houses, most obliging landlords (Messrs. Silenzi and Gendre, both speaking English) and secretary (Coccanari), and one of the best tables-d'hdte in Italy at 5 fr. (certainly in Rome), in cluding good wine of the country;* bed-rooms 3 to 6 fr. a day, according to the floor on which they are situated, and the season ; a sitting-room with bed and servant's room from 10 to 15 fr. ; breakfast, with eggs, 2 fr., or cold meat, 2 1 it. ; id. 2i la fourchette, 4 fr. ; dinner in apartments, 7 fr; servant's board, 5 fr. per diem ; service, 1 fr. per diem for bed-room, 2 fr. including sitting room, and 6 fr. hire monthly for the porter and facchini for a single person, 10 to 15 for families, according to their * Most of the hotel-keepers at Home, until lately, furnished wine gratuitously to their guests at their tables-d'hSte, but now have departed from this more liberal system: the object being evidently to make the traveller use foreign wines, or to pay an excessive price for those of the country. The only houses where the old system is adhered to are at the HStels d'Angleterre and Molaro, and whose tables-d'h?Se are excellent. number. The two latter charges are included in the bills on leaving, or at the end of the month. There are at tached to the hotel very comfortably and elegantly fitted-up sitting, music, reading (with the principal English, American, French, and Italian news papers), and smoking-rooms, baths, &c. " Je connais les meilleurs hotels en Italie, en Allemagne, a. Paris, et a New York ; mais il ny a pas un seul oil on se trouve plus h son aise qu'a 1' Hotel d'An gleterre a Rome : il y a plus de luxe exterieure dans d'autres, mais il n'y a pas d'hotel qui par son confort, sa pr- - prete, sa cuisine et l'organisation de son service, font plus facilement un voya- geur oublier les agre'mens de chez-soi, que l'H6tel d'Angleterre. — V. S., Min. Plen. of the German Confederation in the United States." Letter to the Editor, July, 1871. Hotel and Pension Anglo- Americain, No. 128, Via Frattina, in an excellent and at all seasons healthy situation, and with most of the apartments looking south. Arrangements can be made for board and lodging at so much a day, week, or month, the prices according to the apartments : very good table- d'hote, without wine, 5 fr. ; general sit ting-room, news, English and American papers, and smoking-rooms. This hotel is represented by persons who have lived in it to be comfortable and well managed. Hotel d 'Allemagne, 88, Via Condotti, has undergone a thorough repair and re-furnishing ; clean, comfortable, and well managed ; w. c. in the apartments. Table d'h6te at 5 francs, without wine. General sitting and news-room. a 3 § 1. HOTELS. — BOAKDING-HOUSES. Eome. Hotel d'Amerique, in the Via Babuino, comfortable, with a table-d'h6te, and attentive landlord. Hotel des Hes Britanniques, kept by Freytag, in the Piazza del Popolo, very clean and good, with an excel lent cook, and well suited for families : good table-d'hfite at 5 fr. Hotel Brighton, in the Via Sebastia- nello, close to the Piazza di Spagna. Hotel Costanzi, in the Via di San Nicola da Tolentino, very good, and not more expensive than other first- class hotels, nearest to the rly. stat., consequently convenient for travellers passing through Rome. The situation is airy, open, and healthy. It is well suited for families. Good table d'hdte. —J. M. Hotel de I'Europe, in the Piazza di Spagna, comfortable in every respect. Good table-d'hote at 5 fr. (without wine). It has several large suites of apartments and bachelors' rooms : some of the apartments on the Piazza Mig- nanelli have the advantage of a sunny look-out. This hotel has been much improved: the drains, formerly com plained of, repaired ; the charges diminished ; and the general manage ment placed under the direction of M. Wagner, formerly of the H6tel du Louvre at Paris. Hotel du Globe, Via di S. Nicolas di Tolentino. The Hotel de Londres and H. Serny, belonging to the same owner, and close to each other, in the Piazza di Spagna, are on the same system as the Europa, hut perhaps more expensive. Hotel Molaro, in the Via Gregoriana; good, in a very healthy situation, and well spoken of in every respect Table d'hote 5 fr., wine included. Hotel de la Paix, in the Via Felice ; charges moderate, but second-rate. Hotel de Rome, in the Palazzo Loz- zano, Piazza di San Carlo in Corso, on a large scale ; nearly 300 beds ; very good. The larger apartments, salle k manger, and general sitting and smok ing rooms, are handsomely fitted up ; table-d'hote 5 fr., without wine. Bed rooms from 4 to 7 fr. ; dinner in apart ments 7 to 10 fr. Of late years this house, after the Hotels d'Angleterre and Europa, has been one of the most fre quented in Rome by travellers from every country ; situation healthy. Hotel de Sussie, near the Piazza del Popolo, table-d'hdte, 5 frs. (without wine). The situation of this hotel is not, however, so convenient as those nearer the Piazza di Spagna, from being at the N. extremity of the city. Hotel Victoria, ¦ comfortable and well situated, Via Due Macelli ; clean, with good attendance. Hotel New York, in the Via Bocca di Leone, in a convenient situation near the Via Condotti and Piazza di Spagna, table-d' h6te at 5 fr. ; represented as comfortable and respectable. Pension Anglaise, a small quiet 2nd- rate hotel, with table-d'hote at 5 fr., No. 54, Via Condotti. Hotel de la Ville in the Via di Babuino , close to the Piazza del Popolo, and op posite to the H6tel de Russie, repre sented as comfortable in every respect. All the above hotels are in what may be called the strangers' quarter of Rome. Albergo delta Minerva, in the Piazza della Minerva, behind the Pantheon, a very extensive hotel, with some large apartments handsomely fur nished ; table-d'hote. The Minerva is more frequented by French, Germans, and other strangers than English and Americans. It was, until lately, the general rendezvous for the Roman Catholic clergy and laity of the higher classes, from every country during their visits to Rome, as it is now of members of the legislature, the two Chambers being close by. Hotel Cesari, Piazza di Pietra, in the same quarter, a fair bachelor's hotel or lodging-house, hut without cafe', restaurant, or table-d'hdte. All accounts at hotels are now paid in the current coin of Rome, bank notes. British gold and silver currency are at 27 lire for the £ sterling; of course an advantage of nearly 8 per cent, to the English traveller. Boarding-houses.— That kept by the Misses Smith (English ladies), at No. Rome. § 2. LODGINGS. 93, Piazta di Spagna, is respectably conducted. Well suited for English ladies, the Misses S. being patronized by the resident clergyman and English families. Mrs. Polkinghorne, also an Englishwoman, keeps a well-conducted Boarding-house, hut small, at No. 151, Via di Babuino. Another Boarding- house, kept by Madame Tellenbach, a German, at No. 51 in the same Piazza, is also recommended as well suited for families, the owner speaking English. Terms, everything included, about 3 guineas a-week. Of late, and arising from the greater influx of American visitors, the number of boarding-houses at Rome has considerably increased ; the above will be the best for families, and especially ladies. The prices of apartments in the hotels will vary according to the season, being highest in the winter months, and especially during the festivities of the Carnival and the Holy week. A bed-room on an average costs from 3 to 6 francs a-day, a suite of apartments for 3 or 4 persons from 16 to 20 francs ; but this will depend on the look-out, the floor on which the rooms are situ ated, their number, &c. Firing and lights are expensive in hotels, some charging 1 fr. for each wax candle, and 5 for every basket of wood, whilst at others (l'Angleterre) these charges are 75 c. and 4 fr. ; as is every kind of wine, both foreign and Italian. 1 fr. a day for each person, hut less when a 'family is numerous, or if the stay be prolonged, is considered ample re muneration for the servants, or service ; it is now included in the bill at all the respectable hotels : a small fee is gene rally given to the porter on leaving; in some of the hotels, as at the Angle- terre, even this is included in the bill. Travellers arriving at the rly. stat. will do well to be on their guard against the reports of interested parties, who will try to dissuade them from going to such or such an hotel on the plea that there is no room. They can find this out, if true, for themselves, by driving to the house they have decided to go to, the master of which, if he cannot take them in, will be the best adviser as to where they will find accommodation. § 2. Lodgings in private houses may be had in all parts of Rome. The best situations are the Piazza di Spagna, the Via Babuino, the Corso, and the streets lying between them ; the Via Grego- riana,the Via Sistina,theVia Felice,delle Quattro Fontaue, dei Due Macelli, della Propaganda, della Mercede, del Tri- tone, Condotti, della Croce, &c, and ge nerally all the streets between the Corso and the declivities of the Pincian and Quirinal hills. Strangers should avoid situations where the bed-rooms cannot have a free circulation of air. All houses with confined court-yards and fountains, however agreeable they may be rendered to the eye by verdure, are objectionable in summer on account of the mosquitos; the latter are par ticularly annoying near the Tiber. The streets that run in an E. and W. direction are to be preferred to those running N. and S., as they are less exposed to currents of cold air during the prevalence of N. winds, and the apartments have a better look-out. Both the sitting and bed rooms of invalids should, if possible, have a, southern aspect. Nervous persons should live in the more open,' and elevated situations. The price for a furnished sitting-room and bed-room in a good situation is now from 120 to 150 fr. a month. Suites of apartments for families may be reckoned in pro portion, but this depends greatly on the demand, the season, and the situa tion. After the holy week, for in stance, the price of lodgings is lowered considerably. A good sitting-room, with 3 bed-rooms and a kitchen, in the fashionable quarter, costs on the average from 200 to 350 fr. a month, according to the furniture and situa tion; or less in the streets which lie beyond the ordinary beat of English visitors, as in retired situations near the Quirinal, and about the N. foot of the Capitol, and the Piazza Trajano, one of the most healthy parts of Rome. Families who intend to make a pro longed stay in Rome may find roomy and splendid apartments in some of the great palaces — in those of the Simonetti, Gregorio. However re spectable the landlord may appear, § 3. TRATTOEIE, EESTAUBATETjES. Ro a formal written agreement (con- tratto) is necessary, and a careful veri fication of the inventory of the fur niture still more so. It is also ad visable to insert in the agreement the clause " mono V uso," as a provision against wear and tear. In the Corso it will be as well also to stipulate for the ex clusive possession of the windows during the Carnival, or the lodger may be sur prised to find his apartments converted into show-rooms for its festivities, be sides being obliged to pay for places at his own windows. In the court of every house there is usually a fountain, from which the different lodgers supply them selves with water by means of buckets traversing on a fixed iron rod, so as to avoid the necessity of servants descend ing from the upper floors. Wood, as we have already remarked, is expensive; a cartload, including porterage and cutting, now costs from 20 to 22 lire. Persons living in private lodgings will find it more economical to burn coke, which can at all times be procured at the gas-works (Via de' Cerchi, near la Bocca della Verita) at about 60 livres a ton, or from the ordinary wood merchants for 3J livres a sack. A single person generally pays 15 to 20 lire a month for attendance. The wages of female servants are from 25 to 35 lire a month with their board. Strangers will fiud lists of apartments at Mr. Shea's house agency in the Piazza di Spagna, No. 11, who for a moderate charge will undertake to have all for malities regarding agreement and inven tory made out in a proper form, receiv ing and delivering up the furniture, &c. The prices of lodgings have consider ably increased at Rome within the last few years, and are likely to do so, more especially since Rome has become the capital of Italy. House and Commission Agents. — Mr. Shea, No. 11, Piazza di Spagna, estab lished here since 1852, can be recom mended as a careful, experienced, and trustworthy agent, not only for apart ments, but for packing and forwarding parcels, luggage, works of art, &c, to England and the United States. He is one of Messrs. J. and P.. McCrackens', of London, correspondents. Mr. Shea lets out a part of his house as furnished lodgings, with board, which, from their southern exposure, are very comfort able. Pohcalsky, No. 455 in the Corso, has an agency for servants, &c. Strangers cannot he too much cau tioned against certain fellows who are constantly hanging about the Piazza di Spagna and the neighbouring streets, and at the railway station, offering lodgings for hire. They will exact a high commission from the owners, which will ultimately come out of the pockets of the hirers. § 3. Trattorie, Restaurateurs. — Most persons who live in private lodgings at Rome are supplied with dinner from a trattoria, at a fixed rate per head, and which will, for small families par ticularly, be found much more conve nient and economical than marketing, hiring cooks, &c. The charges for dinner ought not to exceed 5 fr. a head exclusive of dessert and wine; so well is the system carried out, that the dishes are sent even to consider able distances perfectly hot, by means of large tin baskets furnished with charcoal braziers. Amongst the best of these traiteursare, Bedeau, 81, Via della Croce; Celles, ViaSebastianello; Morin Pere, French cook, well recommended, 94, Via Capo le Case ; Carletti, 11, Via Condotti. The Restaurant de Paris on the ground-floor in Palazzo Si- monetti, No. 307 in the Corso, good. Table-d'hote 4 fr., including wine. Bachelors will prefer dining at a table- d'hote or a restaurateur's : a good restau rant is still one of the desiderata here, al though improvement has taken place of late years. The following are the most resorted to : — Spillman, 10, Via Con dotti ; the best pastry-cook's and confec tioner's shop in Rome; a table-d'hote at 5 francs a head, without wine, and an excellent restaurant for breakfasts a la fourchette and luncheons, have been added to this establishment. S. sends out dinn ers, supplies dinners to families, picnics for the country, &c. Francois Spillman, No. 12 in the same street, for dinner parties. Nazzari's, Piazza di Spagna, with a pastry-cook's shop at- R ome, § 4. CAFris. — § 5. PROVISIONS) MARKETS, ETC. tached; the restaurant is much fre quented both for luncheons and din ners ; — these three send out dinners to families. Bedeau, 81, Via della Croce, is very good, the rooms clean, and the cooking excellent, perhaps more econo mical than the preceding; frequented by the higher class of artists. — Caffe di Roma, anew establishment, in the Piazza di San Carlo in Corso, near the Hotel de Rome, handsomely fitted up. Restaurant Renaud, No. 26, Via Mario dei Fiori, kept by a French cook ; clean, and charges moderate ; dinners to be ordered beforehand. Caffe' Corti, in the Piazza di Pietra, moderate. Resto- ratore Ronzi, 202, Piazza Colonna, restorateurs and pastrycooks. The Ristoratore del Falcone, in the Piazza di. S. Eustachio, behind the Pantheon, is the most celebrated for its exclu sively Roman cuisine. § 4. Cafes. — The Roman caffes have hitherto been behind those of the other large towns in Italy. They have improved since the arrival of the new Government. The best are : — Caffe di Roma, one of the cleanest, 121, Corso ; Caffe Greco, with a restaurant, in the Via Condotti, the rendezvous of the artists of every country — almost all the artists in Rome may be met here ; it is their general rendezvous at 7 a.m. for breakfast, and in the evening ; Caff6 Bagnoli alle Convertite, in the Corso, very fair and much frequented by the Romans of the middle classes. Caffe di Venezia, in the Piazza di Venezia, clean. Breakfast at a caffe', with tea or coffee, bread, butter, and eggs, costs 1 lira; a cup of coffee, 15 to 20 cent. The designation corre sponding to our English waiter, or French garcon, in a cafe', is bottega ; in an hotel or restaurant, cameriere. § 5. Provisions, Articles of Housekeep ing, Markets, &c. — Every article of housekeeping having increased of late years in value, Rome, from being as in former times an economical residence, is now as expensive as any capital in Europe.* Meat Markets — There is no general market for butchers' meat in Rome, although several are projected: like the bakers, the butchers have been, under the Papal Government, a privi leged class, and their shops distributed over the city, in proportion to the wants of the respective quarters. Pork, lamb, and larger game are sold in the open markets at the Pantheon, and at the shops of the sausage vendors or Pizzi- cagnoli, also a privileged trade, who are the dealers in butter, eggs, hams, bacon, oil, and salt fish. Game and Poultry. — The principal market is held in the streets adjoining the Rotonda or Pantheon. The supply of the former is very varied indeed; every flying creature being eaten by the Romans, may be seen here, from an eagle to a tom-tit. The principal * To enable the visitor to judge of the truth of this, we annex a table of the prices charged for several of the most important articles of housekeeping in January, 1871 : we have given the prices first in Roman currency and weights, and reduced the latter to English pounds and money, to enable our countrymen to make the comparison. We have added the prices of the same articles in London on the same date : — In Rome, per Rom. lb. per Eng. lb. In London, eef and mutton 12 soldi. sd. Id. to led. Veal 15 „ lad. sd. to 9Jd. Pork (only allowed to be sold from Nov. to Feb.) . 8 to 10 „ bid. std. to 9id. Fowls (very small and poor), each 30 to 35 „ 15d. to lid. 2/6 to 3/6 Bacon 12 „ Si 12d. Fish (varies considerably) 20 to 25 „ 12id. to led. Bread (per lb.) 2i „ 2d.; qtn. loaf. Sd. Id. Potatoes (per lb.) 1 „ Sid. per stone. Coke (per cwt.) 3i francs. „ (per ton.) of 1000 kil 4li ,, Only such articles as can bear comparison with those consumed in England have been inserted. XIV § 6. PASSPORTS AND POLICE REGULATIONS. Rome. species, which of course vary with the seasons, are tame and wild pigeons, partridges, woodcocks, and three or four species of snipe, waterfowl, thrushes, quails, especially during their arrival in May, and an immense va riety of small birds, known under the general denomination of 7Jccelletti,many of which are of passage ; of larger game, wild boar, roebuck, hares, and porcupines, which are considered as such. Fish Market. — There are two for fresh fish. The largest (la Pescarid), in the Jews' quarter, on the ruins of the Portico of Octavia, where all the produce of the sea-fisheries, and of the salt lagoons bordering on the Pontine Marshes, are brought every morning, a very inte resting exhibition for the naturalist, as the. species are extremely varied ; the second market behind San Carlo in tbe Corso. The best fish are the sea basse (spigold), the grey mullet (cefalo), the rouget (niullo), soles (sola), whiting (merluzzo). The skaite, dog-fish, con ger eels, are inferior, as are the two larger species of cuttle-fish, the sepia and calamare ; the langusta or crayfish represents our lobster, is lighter and very good ; crabs small and inferior. The best freshwater fish are the eels and cai'p from the lakes of Fogliano, &c. Since the extension of the rail ways from the Adriatic, the supply of fish to Rome has much increased. A peculiar species of land-crab is consi dered a delicacy in the summer months. Vegetable and Fruit Market. — The principal are in the Campo dei Fiori, and the supply is good, as much ground about the capital is laid out in gardens. Oranges are brought from Naples and Sicily; apples and pears from the Sabine provinces chiefly, as also chestnuts and walnuts ; in the spring and summer there is an abundant supply of strawberries, cherries, and later of grapes and figs. The price of vegetables is very variable : the best are cauliflowers, cultivated and wild asparagus, celery, peas, and different kinds of salads ; carrots and turnips inferior ; potatoes good : in the spring and summer large quantities of fennel- root (finocchio), horse-beans, peas, &c, are eaten in the raw state. Asparagus, grown to an enormous size, is cultivated near Castel Gaudolfo and Tivoli, and is very good. Firewood can be best procured in larger quantities at the wood-yards near the Tiber, but for most visitors it will be more convenient to get it through the grocers, and who furnish families with oil, candles, &c. Coke can also be procured, in the same way, although, when large quantities are consumed, it will be more economical to obtain it from the gasworks in the Via dei Cerchi, near the Circus Maximus. The persons who supply groceries, foreign and home wines, &c, are mentioned under the head of Tradesmen. Lui- gioni and Fichelli, who live at Nos. 70 and 87 in the Piazza di Spagna, and A. Berardi, at No. 25, Via Condotti, can be recommended for this purpose. Wood is sold by the cart-load, in cluding cutting and storing, at about 20 lire the caretta or cart-load of 2 cubic metres. Bakers.— The price of household bread is fixed by the authorities, who keep a strict supervision over the Forni or bakers' shops. Ordinary household bread, Pane Casareccio, is sold by the Decina of ten Roman pounds (7 J Eng lish lbs.), and now costs from 25 to 28 soldi, being at the rate of nearly 2c?. an English lb., or more exactly 7-^d. the quartern loaf; fancy bread, such as brown bread and rolls, on which there is no tariff, are nearly double in price, or about 4c?. per lb. Colalucci and Meyer, who speak English, No. 88, Via della Croce, can be recommended for every kind of fancy bread, biscuits, pastry, &c. They also sell tea, beer, wines, and spirits, and are very ob liging and honest people. § 6. Passports and police regulations regarding foreigners. — The regulations concerning these formerly so trouble some documents are now the same as in other towns of the kingdom of Italy. Travellers arriving at Rome must re gister their names, if living in lodgings, Rome. § 7. clubs.— § 8. conveyances. — § 9. railways. xv at the Glteral Police office or Ques- tura, in the Via delle Mercede ; this is done by the keepers of hotels for their inmates. No visas necessary for pass ports for foreigners leaving Rome. A journal containing the names of all travellers arriving is printed 3 times a week, — the 'Journal de l'Arrivee des Etrangers.' § 7. Clubs. — There is an English club at No. 78, Via della Croce. Candi dates for admission must be proposed and seconded by members, as in Lon don, and are elected by ballot the week following. Season Members, who are admitted for six months, joining the club before the 1st of March, pay a subscription of 135 francs; after that date, or for the remainder of the sea son, 80, or for a month, 40. Permanent Members, who reside usually at Rome, an entrance fee of 135 lire, and an an nual subscription of 75. All payments to be made in silver or gold. Season members must re-submit to ballot every year. Absentees do not contribute. There is a table-d'h6te dinner for mem bers putting down their names before a certain hour. The club is opened on the 1st of November, and closed after the 15th of May. There is a club of German artists, to which all foreigners can be admitted, provided they speak German, the subscription to which is 35 lire a-year, and 8 a month ; it is now lodged in the Palazzo Poli, over looking the Fontana di Trevi : attached to it is a library of works on Rome and the fine arts, amounting to 3000 volumes. There is an American club confined to gentlemen of the United States, at No. 12, Via di Alberti, out of the Via Babuino ; admission by ballot : subscription, 300 lire for 6 months, 150 for 3, and 50 for 1 month ; and a Ro man one, to which diplomatic strangers are admitted, Palazzo Bernini, No. 150, Corso. Several Italian clubs have been set up since the occupation of Rome by the Italian Government ; the club of La Caccia, in the Corso, is the most fashion able, and frequented by foreigners and diplomatists : admittance by ballot. § 8. Public Conveyances. — Almost all the public conveyances out of Rome have ceased running, owing to the extension of the rly. lines to the capi tal, and the few that may be used by travellers now start from stations on the different railways, thus : — those for Viterbo from Orte, for Rieti from Cor- rese, for Porto d'Anzio from La Cec- china near Albano. A direct diligence for Viterbo and Orvieto, performing the journey in a day, and in corre spondence with trains of the Central Italian Railway to Chiusi, Siena, and Florence, starts 3 times a week from an office in the Via Clementina, near the Borghese Palace. Porto d'Anzio. — A diligence starts every Tuesday, Thursday, and Satur day, returning on the intermediate days, and daily during the bathing sea son, at an early hour, employing the railway as far as the Albano station of La Cecchina, performing the journey in 4 hours ; places to be secured at Bac- chili's, in the Via di Bocca di Leone, near the HStel d'Angleterre : fares — ¦ coupe' 8, interior and outside 6 fr. Public conveyances, consisting gene rally of ill-appointed caleches, set out for Palestrina from the Osteria de' 3 Re, near the Piazza di San Marco, at the foot of the Capitol ; for Bracciano from the Albergo del Sole, near San Andrea della Valle, every morning, in 5 hours ; and for Genazzano, OlevanO, Paliano, &c, 3 times a week, from an Osteria in the Via degli Orfani, near the Piazza Capranica. A very fair coach leaves the Piazza degli Orfanelli twice a day for Tivoli, employing about 4 hours ; fare 4 francs : that starting in the morn ing continues as far as Subiaco, arriv ing there before dark. The modes of conveyance from Rome to the different towns are no ticed in the Routes of the Handbooks for Central and South Italy, in which they are described. § 9. Railways. — Trains leave Rome every morning and evening, via Terni, Foligno, Perugia, and Arezzo for Florence at 9'30 a.m., at 10-10 p.m. ; at 10'45 a.m. via Civita Vecchia, Leg horn, and Pisa, in 13 hrs. For Naples XVI § 9. RAILWAYS.— § 10. STEAMERS. Rome, at 1 and 11*25 p.m.; arriving at 7'50 p;m. and 6*50 a.m. For Ancona at 9-30 a.m. a.nd 9-10 p.m. For Civita Vecchia at 6-40 and 9'40 a.m., and 3-44 p.m. For Frascati, Albano and Velletri several times a day. There are numer ous other trains on the different lines for ordinary or slower trains, which will be found marked on the official lists of the day. Travellers proceeding from Rome to India via. Brindisi may either proceed by rly. to Ancona, from which the direct trains in correspondence with the steamers to Alexandria start on Sunday, at 5-14 p.m., for Brindisi, or by Caserta (where there is a good Inn, La Victoria) or Naples, and from there by Benevento and Foggia, an unbroken line by both these ,lines of Rly. from Rome to Brindisi in about 20 hrs. The mail steamer sailing at 5 p.m. on Monday, or immediately after the arrival of the postal train. Luggage by Railway.— Every passen ger is allowed to carry under his own care a weight of 20 kilogrammes (about 42 lbs.), provided it be of a size to be stowed under the seats or in the net of the railway carriages, viz. 50 centi metres (20 inches) by 30 (12 in.). This is a great convenience, as, in the case of travellers going to Naples, they will experience no detention on arriving there. Omnibuses to the principal hotels, with the following fares: 75 c. each place ; 50 c. for every box, portmanteau, or trunk ; 25 c. for travelling-bags and such like ; no charge for smaller parcels, such as rugs, shawls, hat- boxes, umbrellas, &c. ; for a carriage to hold 3 persons 5 frs., for each ad ditional person 75 c. with a small gratuity to the conductor, who sees after the luggage. Carriages will be in waiting for families on arriving in Rome, by giving notice by telegraph (to cost 1 lira), at the Civita Vecchia, Foligno, or Ceprano Rly. Stats., or from Naples or Florence, according to the route by which they may arrive. No fees to porters upon arriving at hotels, whose duty it is to hand down the luggage, which must be taken charge of by the servants of the establishment. All the hotel -keepers send omni buses with a Commissionnaire to await travellers on the arrival of the trains, who will see to their luggage being cleared by leaving to him their keys, which they may do in all confidence. This arrangement will be convenient for families or parties of ladies, who can at once proceed to their hotel, and avoid delay, their luggage following in the omnibus; it will always be con venient to write a day before to the master of the hotel where they propose to lodge, before reaching Rome, to send a carriage to the station. Intramural omnibuses run between the Porta del Popolo and St. Peter's, by the Corso and Piazza di Venezia — fare, 25 c. ; and from the latter to the ch. of S. Paolo fuori le Mure, but of an inferior description. This service of omnibuses has lately much increased and improved ; should there be no omnibus in waiting at the rly. stat. from the hotel where the traveller wishes to proceed to, he may conclude it is full, and has no accommodation to receive him. § 10. Steam communication from Civita Vecchia. — As many visitors to Rome arrive or take their departure by steamers at Civita Vecchia, it will be of use, in addition to what has been said in describing that port (Hand- booh for Central Italy, Rte. 83), to state what the latest arrangements are as regards steam communication with the other ports of Italy, Mar seilles, &c. ; remarking, however, that few now adopt this route. There are several companies which have steamers calling at Civita Vecchia: the excel lent postal steamers of the Italian Peirano-Danovaro Co. The Peirano Co.'s boats, carrying the mails, are the most to be depended upon for punc tuality in arriving and sailing; their boats are well found and manned, and the cuisine on board good. They arrive from Marseilles every Friday at 2 p.m. ; returning from Civita Vecchia on the same day at 4 p.m., passing by Leghorn, Genoa, and Nice. Rome. § 11. LIVERY STABLES. — HACKNEY COACHES, XVll The stesflhers of the French private or commercial companies are in ferior to the former in speed, regu larity of sailing, cleanliness, and com fort generally : they are for the most part boats of low power, several being screws, and more calculated for mer chandise than passengers ; the cooking department is also inferior. Those of the Valery Company, the best, leave Civita Vecchia every Sund. and Thurs. at 2 p.m., proceeding direct to Marseilles in about 30 hours. The Office of the Valery Co. is at No. 5, Via Condotti. There is also a boat from Civita Vec chia to Palermo weekly. Steamboats on the Tiber. — A boat starts every morning at 5 or 6 o'clock, according to the season, from the Quay of Ripagrande, for Fiumicino, at the mouth of the river, performing the voy age iu 2 or 3 hours, and returning to Rome the same day at nightfall, giving the tourist plenty of time to see the en virons of Ostia and Porto. The return voyage is tedious, the steamer having generally coasting-vessels in tow. § 11. English Livery Stables. — Jarrett, Piazza del Popolo; Bonafede, 31, Piazza di Spagna ; Cairoli, Via Incu- rabili ; and Ranucci, Vicolo Aliberti. The usual charge is 250 to 350 frs. a month for gentlemen's horses, a little more when used for hunting, with a monthly gratuity, fixed by agreement, to the groom ; for a ride 10 frs. Hackney Coaches. — The principal stands are in the Piazza di Spagna, in the Piazzas di San Lorenzo in Lucina and di Monte Citorio, in the Piazza di Venezia near the Capitol, under the Colonnades in the Piazza di S. Pietro, and at the rly. stat. No charge made for small parcels, such as hat-boxes, carpet-bags, rugs, umbrellas, &c. ; larger ones, such as portmanteaus, boxes, &c, 50 c. each. After the first hour the time is charged by the quarter-hour. A special ar rangement must be made with the driver after 1 p.m. for drives in the Corso, &c, during the carnival, and at all times for excursions into the country beyond the 3rd mile. The day-time is reckoned from 6 A.M. to the Ave Mafia, Angelus, or Couvre- feu, which varies accordingto the season, being 1 hr. after sunset ; and the night time from the Ave Maria to 6 a.m. next morning. The drives from the Rly. Stat, to any part of Rome are paid according to the above tariff, but 1 fr. 50 c. and 2 fr. 50 c, in one or two horse carriages, with a moderate quan tity of luggage, will be ample, remu neration, everything included, to the principal hotels. Private or Job Carriages. — There are several persons, and some of the hotel- keepers, who let carriages for hire by the day, half-day, or hour. The hire of a carriage for the day, not including the coachman's buonamano, is from 20 to FARES WITHIN THE CITY WALLS. By Day. By Night. 1-horse Carriage, 2 Passengers. 2-horse Carriage, 5 Passengers. 1-horse Carriage. 2-horse Carriage. lire. lire. lire. lire. 0'80 1-50 1-00 1-70 1-00 1-20 1'70 2-20 2-20 2-70 Course, with 1 or 2 persons Id., with 3 Pas- sengers . . By the Hour . OUTSIDE THE WALLS AS FAR AS 3 MILES FROM THE GATES. BytheHour.| 2-20 | 2-70 | 2-70 | 3-20 XV111 § 12. FOREIGN MINISTERS. — § 13. BANKERS. Rome. 25 frs., and double for excursions to Ti- voli, Frascati, or Albano, when an addi tional horse must be put on. The hire of a carriage by the month varies with the period of the year, the smartness of the vehicle, and horses, from 600 to 750 frs., exclusive of the coachman's buonamano of 56 to 75 frs., the hirer engaging to furnish a close or open carriage as may be required. The hire of carriages during the Carnival and Easter festivities will exceed the prices here stated, often reaching 50 and 60 lire a day. On engaging a carriage by the month it will be ad visable to sign a written agreement with the owner, and to have stated in it that double fares will only be paid for excursions into the country exceeding 10 miles beyond the gates, such as to Veii, Tivoli, Palestrina, Albano, Ostia, Porto, &c, as attempts will often be made to exact 15 or 20 francs beyond the ordinary hire for a drive to places only 6 or 7 miles out side the walls. Agostini, called II Sa- torino, whose office is opposite the Hotel de l'Europe, in the Piazza di Spagna, can be particularly recommended for carriages and horses. The charge for the keep of a saddle-horse at the best livery stables is from 5 to 6 fr. a-day. § 12. Foreign Ambassadors, Ministers, Consuls, tyc. — British Minister, Sir Augustus Paget. The Cancelleria of office is at No. 327 in the Piazza Sciarra. — French Ambassadors. — There are two, one accredited to the Holy See alone, in the Palazzo Colonna ; where is also the office for passports, signature of papers to the Italian Government, although the Minister may not live there. — Austrian and Hungarian Am bassadors both have their offices, but by separate entrances, in the Palazzo di Venetia. — German Legations, both in the Palazzo Caffarelli, on the Capi- toline. The agent accredited to the Holy See for the ecclesiastical affairs of Germany is the Minister of Ba varia. — Spanish Atnbassador to the Pope and Italian Government both in the Piazza di Spagna. — American Minis ter, the Hon. M. Marsh, No. 8, Via S. Nicolo di Tolentino ; the Consulate is at No. 64, Via Sestina. The British Consulate having been recently done away with, the Consular duties have been transferred to the Cancelleria of the British Legation at No. 227, Piazza Sciarra. § 13. Bankers. — Messrs. Alexander Macbean and Co., bankers and wine- merchants, No. 378 in the Corso. Messrs. Macbean are bankers to the British Mission at Rome ; Mr. Mac bean, British Consul at Leghorn, is the principal partner. Messrs. Free born and Danyell, No. 79 Via Bocca di Leone. Spada, Flamini, and Co., successors to Torlouia and Co., Pal. Torlonia, 20, Via Condotti. Messrs. Packenham and Hooker, 20, Piazza di Spagna, who conduct a large portion of the American business. Messrs. Plow- den and Co., 51 , Via della Mercede. Mr. Linder, 9, Via Condotti. Messrs. Furse and Co., 9, Piazza di Spagna. These houses are obliging to their customers in furnishing information generally. Most are agents in correspondence with Messrs. McCracken and Co., of 38, Queen-street, London, for the trans mission of parcels and works of art to England and the United States. Sig. Cerasi, Palazzo Giorgi, 51, Via Ba buino, is the correspondent of Messrs. de Rothschild. Terwagne, Belgian and German banker, Palazzo Raggi in the Corso. Kolb, also German, now Schmidt and Nast, in the Piazza de San Luigi dei Francesi. The two great public banks, the Banco Romano, Palazzo Marescotti, and the Banco Nazionale, Palazzo, Ruspoli, Via del Corso, issue bank notes, at present the only currency of the city. Transmission of Packages to England. This business has been hitherto in the hands of the English Bankers, as above stated, and of Mr. Shea, No. 11, Piazza di Spagna, who are to be confided in for packing, forwarding, &c. (Do not trust 'packing to tradespeople who sell the objects.) Messrs. Welby Brothers, British merchants, having established a line of steamers fortnightly between Rome. § 14. POST-OFFICE. — TELEGRAPH. — NEWSPAPERS. XIX the Port of Rome (Ripa grande), Leghorn, and Genoa, will take charge of packages for London, Liverpool, Glasgow, &c, transhipping them by steamers for these ports at Genoa and Leghorn. Time employed in reaching England 20 to 30 days ; freights 2s. per cubic foot. Messrs. James Scott and Co., of 8, King William Street, and Messrs. M'Cracken,are Messrs. Welby's corresponding Agents in London. Money-changers' shops have risen up in great numbers of late years, to the detriment of the English and American banking-houses ; the prin cipal are in the Via Condotti and Corso : their chief business consists in changing foreign coin into notes, and v. v. ; French money into Italian, &c. They generally will discount circular notes of London houses, at the current exchange of the day. They exhibit outside their offices the rates of the exchanges. Most of the hotel-keepers will do the same for their inmates, as will Mr. Lowe, the very respectable English grocer and wine merchant in the Piazza di Spagna. An official list of the exchanges on different places is published in the leading newspapers. § 14. Post-office, in the Piazza Co- lonna. — Owing to the difficulty of de ciphering English names at the poste restante, it may be better for English and American travellers to have their letters directed to the hotels where they intend lodging, or to the care of their bankers or agents. Letters are despatched from Rome by railway on the morning and evening by the trains to Florence, and from there to Paris, London, and Germany, and can he posted at the General Post-Office at 8 a.m. and p.m., and at a quarter of an hour before the departure of the re spective trains at the Rly. Stat. Letters for England weighing 7=j grammes must be prepaid 60 centimes, and via Belgium and Germany, weighing 15 grammes, the same charge ; to Paris, weighing 10 grammes, 40 centimes ; to Germany, 40 c. ; and to the United States, 1 fr. by England, or by Belgium and Ostend, 55 grammes ; letters to In dia via Brindisi and Alexandria being despatched every Sunday evening by the Overland Mail, which leaves Brin disi at 5 a.m. on]Monday. Letters weigh ing 10 grammes, for Germany, Bel gium, Denmark, 15 grammes, 40 c. ; Spain, 50 c. ; Portugal, 70 c. ; for Turkey and Greece, 60 c. For every part of the Italian kingdom, weighing 10 grammes, 20 c. There are numerous letter-boxes in different parts of Rome, and at some of the principal hotels, as well as branch offices in several streets, closed 8 a.m. and p.m. The Roman post-office is open every day from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Letters are distributed, a domicile, several times a day. Electric Telegraph. — Messages are despatched to every part of the world from the Central Office at No. 127, Piazza di Monte Citorio. For every part of the kingdom of Italy, consisting of 1 5 words, 1 lira, with 10 centimes for every additional word ; to England, London, 9, and the Provinces, 1 0 lire ; for France and Corsica, 4 lire; to Austria and Hungary, 3 fr. ; to North Germany, 6-50 ; to Russia and Greece, 6'50 ; to Switzerland, 3 ; to Bavaria, 4-50 ; to Denmark, 6*50 ; to Spain, 6-50 lire ; to India, 40 ; to Malta, 6 ; to the United States of America — New York, 50 lire, Washington 75 lire, Boston 50, Pennsylvania 58, to New Orleans 50'40 lire, to Canada, East and West, 50 lire : the despatches for the United States to consist only of 10 words, with one- tenth for each additional word. All messages to places in Europe to con sist of 20 words, each additional 10 words of one-half the above men tioned amount. Roman Newspapers. — In great num ber since the fall of the Pontifical Government, the principal being the Giornale Ufficiale di Roma; that which will most interest the foreign traveller will be the latest telegrams, which are printed in it. A paper that will interest more the foreign resi dent, will he the Arrivee des Strangers XX § 15. MEDICAL MEN. Rome. a Rome, a list of arrivals and departures of strangers, with their addresses. It appears three times a week between Nov. and June, at No. 1 39, Via Frattina. The advertisements in it may be useful to visitors. The Civilta Catolica, a bi monthly review, which has a very ex tensive circulation through the Roman Catholic world, and edited by members of the Jesuit order, is written with considerable talent, but in a very strong religious and party spirit. Its publica tion has been transferred to Florence since the occupation of Rome by the Italian Government. The Italie, written in French, is a very respect able government organ, published every evening at the close of the Sittings of the Chambers. An English newspaper, the Roman Times, is worthy of encouragement by the foreign visi tors ; it is published every Saturday, price 20 centimes, and generally con tains much information for the British and American tourists ; it is sold at the principal booksellers'. Of the several newspapers printed at Rome, the Liberta and the Osservatore di Roma will be found the most respect able, on the Italian and Papal sides of politics. § 1 5. Medical Men. English. — Dr. Pantaleoni, 89, Via Babuino, for many years the principal physician amongst the English and American visitors at Rome,and who has since practised at Nice, has returned, from his long banishment, to his na tive city and resumed his Practice and Professional calling. He now resides at the Palazzo Valdambrini, in the Via Ripetta; he is director-general of the Roman hospitals. Dr. Gerard Small, M.B. Oxon, Fellow of the Dublin Col lege of Surgeons, and accoucheur, 56, Via del Babuino, has been settled at Rome for many years, and conse quently has much experience in the influence of its climate on diseases. Dr. Grigor, 3, Piazza di Spagna, M.D. of Aberdeen, of the Royal Col lege of Surgeons, Edinburgh, physi cian and accoucheur. Dr. Gason, Fellow of the College of Physicians in Ire land, No. 81, Via della Croce.— Dr. G. is also an accoucheur, and practises during the summer months at the baths of Lucca. American. — Dr. Gould, Member of the College of Physicians and Surgeons of New York, formerly physician in the U. S. Navy, No. 107, Via Babuino. Italian. — Dr. Fedeli, No. 1 1 , Via de Borgognona, speaks English and French; he has much experience in the diseases inherent on the Roman climate and its effects. Dr. Valery, No. 135, Via Babuino, also speaks English, and is much employed by travellers from the United States ; Dr. Bacelli, No. 69, Via della Monte di Farina. Both the latter gentlemen are Professors of Medicine in the Uni versity. Dr. Maggiorani, one of the medical celebrities of Rome as con sulting physician ; Dr. Negri, physician to one of the hospitals, is well ac quainted with Roman maladies — his address to be found at Sinimberghi's pharmacy. German. — Dr. Taussig, 144, Via Ba buino, author of a good little book on the 'Climate of Rome: its Influence on Disease,' &c. (in English) ; Dr. Erhardt, 16, Via Mario dei Fiori ; these gentlemen have resided for a long period in Rome, and hence are well acquainted with the influence of its climate on disease ; Dr. E. is physi cian to the German Protestant Hospital attached to the German Legation both speak English. Homoeopathic Physicians. — Dr. La- delci, Via di San Marco ; Dr. Liberali, 69, Via della Frezza; Dr. Grilli, 43 Via Nuova. Surgeons. — Professor Mazzoni, No, 89, Via Mario di Fiori, near the Via Frattina, is the most eminent sur geon, operator, and accoucheur in Rome, and chief medical man and surgeon to the Torlonia Hospital, and at the head of the Great Hospital of San Giovanni. Dr. M. is the most employed of the Roman sur geons by foreigners, universally in Rome. §§ 16, 17. dentists, chemists, etc — § 18. booksellers. cases oi» accidents, not uncommon amongst our countrymen during the hunting-season; he has been educated in Paris, has written a work on our London hospitals, and his professional reputation is European— Prof. M. will be the best person to superintend em- balments (see pp. 322, 327); Dr. Feli- ciani, 71, Via di S. Claudio; Dr. Laurenzi, 78, Via Frattina, 4° p°. § 16. Dentists, Dr. Parmly, 93, Piazza di Spagna, an American dentist, very highly spoken of, and much employed by the Roman nobility and foreign residents ; Castellini, 41, Via della Colonna; Galassi, 45, Piazza di Spagna. Comcutters, Troni, 33, Via Mario de' Fiori, also surgeon, and very clever as corn operator, as the author has had reason on several occasions to ex perience ; Paleschi, 65, Via Babuino; Faccini, good, to be found at the Far- macia Lippi, No. 460, Corso. § 17. Chemists and Apothecaries. — Sinimberghi, No. 64, 65, 66, Via Condotti, chemist, by appointment, to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, to the British Mission and Legation at Rome, to the Minister of the United States, and to H.R.H. the Hereditary Prince of Piedmont ; the proprietor is a mem ber of the Pharmaceutical Society of London, and has been educated at the Apothecaries' Hall ; he keeps English assistants, so that carefulness is secured in making up prescriptions of English medical men. The house in which this pharmacy is situated, is a good specimen of modern street ar chitecture of Rome, the outside being painted by clever artists in fresco, re presenting subjects connected with the owner's calling — chemistry, botany, medicine, &c. Borrioni, Via Babuino, is also supplied with English drugs and medicines. For information on the climate of Rome, the prevalent maladies, funerals, indemnities to hotels and lodging- house keepers in case of death, see p. xxxi., and pp. 322, 327. § 18. Booksellers, Circulating Libraries, News-Rooms. Bookseller, Publisher, $ Stationer. — The most extensive establishment of this kind in Rome is that of Spithover, at No. 85, Piazza di Spagna; his collection of foreign works is the largest, especially in English, Ger man, and French literature ; guide books ; maps, ancient and modern, including those of the Austrian Trigo nometrical Survey of Italy ; engrav ings, &c. S. is the publisher of Canina's and Cardinal Mai's works, and the exclusive agent for the sale of Anderson's beautiful photographs, the best in Rome. Besides modern works he has a large collection of old books. The business in the Piazza di Spagna is conducted by M. Haas, now the head partner, aGerman gentleman, who, speaking English and French fluently, is well able, as he will always be ready, to give every information to foreign visitors on matters that may interest them at Rome, and who will obtain orders for the principal sights for his customers. An address-book is kept here containing the names of strangers in Rome. Newspapers, Eng lish and German, including Galignani's Messenger, let out on hire as at the other libraries, and at the same rates, viz., for Galignani on the day of its arrival, until 6 p.m., 10 frs. a month, and for the second day 8J ; for the London papers, 16J frs., and on the 2nd 13i. Booksellers, Reading Rooms, and Circu lating Libraries. — Piale's, also on the Piazza di Spagna,very comfortably fitted up, with a supply of English, Ame rican, German, Italian, and French newspapers, magazines, reviews, &c. : terms of subscription, 46 frs. for the season of 7 months, 7J for a month, 5 for two, and 2 for one week ; Ame rican papers, 12 and 9 frs.; French papers, 10 and 9. Attached to the news-room are a bookselling establish ment and the largest circulating library in Rome, to which the subscription is 75frs. amonth, forthree22, for six 36; sells also photographs, and English and foreign stationery. XXII § 19. printsellers. — § 20. photographs. Rome, Monaldini and Calisti, booksellers and stationers, also in the Piazza di Spagna, on the same system as regards the news-rooms, and with similar charges as at Piale's. Both let out on hire English, American, and French newspapers : charges as at Spithover's. The assistants in both these establish ments speak English, and are obliging. Sell photographs. Bocca, Bookseller, Piazza ;Colonna, is the best Italian and French book seller, especially for works published by the Italian Government on legal and administrative subjects. The numerous works published by the Propaganda, on ecclesiastical lite rature, and on the Oriental languages, can be procured at the shop attached to the College Printing Office in the Via di Propaganda, or at Spithover's. Bookbinders. — Rome was formerly celebrated for its bindings in white vellum, but which has fallen off since the cessation of the manufacture of that article in the Abruzzi: the best are Olivieri, Piazza di Spagna, at the corner of the Via Frattina, especially for ornamental bindings ; Moschetti, 75, Via della Croce; Volpari, No. 62, Via Condotti; and Bencini, 172, Via Ripetta. § 19. Engravings, Printsellers, fyc. — The great test collection of engravings is that of the government, the Calcografia Camerale, 6, Via della Stamperia, near the Fontana di Trevi. Catalogues are hung up, with the price of each print marked. All the engravings executed at the expense of the Papal government may be purchased there. Cuccioni, Piazza di Spagna, No. 42, has a good shop for engravings, photographs, maps, stationery, &c. Fabri, 3, Capo le Case, has an assortment of ancient and modern engravings. The engrav ings of the modern German school, after Overbeds, Fuhrich, &c, can be procured at Spithover's. One of the best and most recent collections of Views in Rome is the series by Cottafavi, published by Cuccioni, 62 in all, price 25 frs. ; and those of the ancient monu ments by Canina, forming the atlas to his Indicazione Topografica,a thick volume in 8vo., represent them as they now stand, with their restoration on the oppo site pages. A beautiful series of views of Rome has been published by one of our own most accomplished amateur artists, Mr. George Vivian, well known from his previous illustrations of the scenery of Spain and Portugal ; the title of the work is ' Views from the Gardens of Rome and Albano, drawn by G. Vi vian, Esq., lithographed by Harding — London, 1848.' Mr. Coleman, an Eng lish artist, has published at Rome a series of etchings of cattle and subjects peculiar to the Campagna and the Pon tine Marshes, which surpass anything of the same class : to be procured at Spithover's. § 20. Photographs. — Photography has of late years been very successfully ap plied in representingnot only the ancient and modern monuments of Rome, but sculpture, and in copying the original drawings of the eld masters. A less legi timate application of it perhaps has been the reproduction of the chefs-d'oeuvre of the old masters from engravings, for it is scarcely necessary to remark that to the present time photography has imper fectly succeeded in copying oil or fresco paintings from the originals. The pur chaser will therefore do well to bear in mind that what may be sold to him as a photographic copy of a celebrated picture has been made from an en graving in the greater number of in stances, or from a drawing. The fol lowing are the most eminent artists in photography at Rome in what we con sider the order of merit of their pro ductions. Mr. Anderson, an English gentleman, the facile princeps in his art ; his photographs are extremely good, and undergo less alteration from the light than any we have seen. They are of different sizes, and are only to be procured at Spithover's. They consist of views of all the most remarkable ancient and modern mo numents of Rome, of places in the environs— those of Cori, Norba, Tivoli, and Subiaco, the panoramic views of the city from Monte Mario, being very remarkable ; of the chefs- Rome. § &. 43-104 * When the years of the birth and death ol the personage are known with tolerable accuracy they have been inserted, otherwise the pericd . when they flourished. C 1 § 59. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES. Eome, Mithridates the Great (g) . . . b.c. 131-62 Narses (g) a.d. 478-567 Ovid' (p) b.c. 43 to a.d. 18 Persius (p) a.d. 34-62 Plautus (p) fl. about a.d. 184 Plutarch (h) fl. about a.d. 85 Pliny the Elder (h, g) . . . . a.d. 23-79 Pliny the Younger fl- a.d. 88 Pollio, Asinius (h) . . . . b.c. 76 to a.d. 4 Pompey the Great (g, s). . . . b.c. 106-48 Polybius (H) B.C. 204-132 Procopius (h) A.D. 495-565 Propertius (p) B.C. 52-10 Pyrrhus (g) b.c. 318-272 Quintilian (h) a.d. 40-90 Regulus, Atilius (g) . . . fl. about b.c. 255 Sallust (h) b.c. 86-34 Scipio Africanus (g) b.c. 219-185 Scipio Africanus Minor (g) . . . b.c. 185-129 Scipio Asiaticus (g) B.C. 190 Seneca (h) b.c. 61 to a.d. 45 Sidonius Apollinaris a.d. 431-484 Statius (p) a.d. 61-96 Stilicho (g) , . a.d. 395 Suetonius (h) . a.d. 70 Sulla (g s) B.C. 138-78 Tacitus (h) a.d. 61-113 Terence (p) b.c 195 Tibullus (p)' B.C. 54-13 Valerius Maximus (h) .... a.d. 15 Varro, Terentius (h) .... b.c. 116-28 Velleius Paterculus (h) . .b.c. 19 to a.d. 13 Virgil (p) B.C. 70-19 BISHOPS AND POPES OF ROME. Years of their Accession. Country. A.D. 42 St. Peter. 66 St. Linus of Volterra. 67 St. Clement, Rome. 78 St. Anacietus, Athens. 100 St. Evaristus, Bethlehem. 109 St. Alexander L, Rome. 119 St. Sixtus I., Rome. 127 St. Telesphorus, Greece. 139 St. Higinus, Athens. 142 St. Pius, Aquileja. 157 St. Anicetus, Syria. 168 St. Soter, Fondi. 177 St. Eleutherius, Nicopolis. 193 St. Victor I., Africa. 202 St. Zephyrinus, Rome. 219 St Callxtus I., Rome. 223 St. Urban L, Rome. 230 St. Pontianus, Rome. 235 St. Anterus, Greece. 236 St. Fabian, Rome. 251 St. Cornelius, Rome. 252 Novatian (Antipope)^ Rome. 252 St. Lucius, Lucca. 253 St. Stephen I., Rome. 257 St. Sixtus II., Athens. 259 St. Dionysius, Greece. 269 St. Felix I., Rome. 275 St. Eutichianus, Tuscany. 283 St. Caius, Salona. 296 St. Marcellinua, Rome. 308 St. Marcellus, Rome. 310 St. Eusebius, Greece. Began to reign . Country. A.D. 311 St. Melchiades, Africa. 314 St. Sylvester, Rome. 336 St. Mark I., Rome. 337 St. Julius L, Rome. 352 St. Liberius, Rome. 355 Felix II. (Antipope), Rome. 366 St. Damasus I., Spain. 384 St. Siricius, Rome. ' 397 St. Anastasius I., Rome. 401 St. Innocent I., Albano. 417 St. Zosimus, Greece. 418 St. Boniface I., Rome. 420 Eulalius {Antipope), Rome. 422 St. Celestin I., Rome. 432 St. Sixtus III., Rome. 440 St. Leo I. (the Great), Tuscany. \ 461 St. Hilary, Sardinia. 467 St. Simplicius, Tivoli. 482 St. Felix II. (called HI.), Rome. 492 St. Gelasius, Africa. 496 St. Anastasius II., Rome. 498 St. Symmachus, Sardinia. 514 Laurentius {Antipope), Rome. 514 St, Hormisdas, Frosinone. 523 John I., Tuscany. 526 St Felix IV., Benevento. 530 Boniface II., Rome. 530 Dioscuros {Antipope), Rome. 532 John II., Rome. 535 St. Agapetus I., Rome. 539 St. Silverius, Frosinone. 538 Vigilius, Rome. 555 Pelagius I., Rome. 560 St. John III., Rome. 574 St. Benedict I., Rome, 578 St. Pelagius IL, Rome. 590 St. Gregory I. (the Great), Rome. 604 Sabinianus, Bieda or Volterra. 607 Boniface III., Rome. 608 Boniface IV, Valera in the Abruzzi. 615 Deodatus I., Rome. 619 Boniface V., Naples. 625 Honorius I, Frosinone. 640 Severinus, Rome. 640 John IV., Zara in Dalmatia. 642 Theodore I., Jerusalem. 649 St. Martin I., Todi. 654 Eugenius L, Rome. 657 Vitalian, Sefrni. 672 Adeodatus, Rome. 675 Domnus I., Rome. 678 Agatho, Reggio in Calabria, Sicily. 682 St. Leo II., Sicily. 684 Benedict II., Rome. 685 John V., Antioch. (Fable of Pope Joan.) 686 Peter {Antipope), Rome. 686 Theodore {Antipope), Rome. 687 Conon, Thrace. 686 Paschal {Antipope), 687 Sergius I., Antioch. 701 John VI., Greece. 705 John VII., Greece. 708 Sisinius, Syria, 708 Constantinus, Syria. 715 Gregory II., Rome. 731 Gregory III., Syria. Rome, § 59. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES. to reign. Country. A.D. 741 Zacharias, Sanseverino, Magna Grecia. 752 Stephen IX or III., Rome. 752 Stephen III., Rome. 757 Paul L, Rome. 768 Titeophilactus (Antipope). 768 Constantine II. (Antipope), Nepi. 769 PhiUp (Antipope), Rome. 768 Stephen IV., Reggio. 772 Adrian 1. (Colonna), Rome. 795 St. Leo III., Rome. 816 Stephen V., Rome. 8l7 Paschal I, Rome. 824 Eugeuius H., Rome. 826 Zinmnius (Antipope), Rome. 827 Valentinus, Rome. 827 Gregory IV., Rome. 844 Sergius II., Rome. 845 Leo IV., Rome. 857 St Benedict III., Rome. 858 Anastasias {Antipope), Rome. 858 Nicholas I., Rome. 867 Adrian IL, Rome. 872 John VIIL, Rome. 882 Martin IX, Gallese. 884 Adrian IIL, Rome. 885 Stephen VL, Rome. 891 Formosus, Corsica. 891 Sergius III. (Antipope). 896 Boniface VI., Tuscany. 896 Stephen VIL; Rome. 857 Romanus L, Gallese. 897 Theodore II., Rome. , 898 John IX., Tivoli. 900 Benedict IV., Rome. 903 Leo V., Ardea. 903 Christopher, Rome. 904 Sergius III., Rome. 911 Anastasius IIL, Rome. 913 Landonius, Sabina. 913 John X., Ravenna. 928 Leo VI., Rome. 929 Stephen VIL, Rome. 931 John XI., Rome. 936 Leo VIL, Tusculum. 939 Stephen VHX, Germany. 943 Martin III., Rome. 946 Agapetus IL, Rome. 956 John Xn. (Octavlanus), Tusculum. 964 Leo (Antipope), Rome. 964 Benedict V., Rome. 965 John XUX, Narni. 972 Benedict VI., Rome. 974 Domnus II., Rome. 975 Benedict VIL, Rome. 980 Boniface VII. {Francone), Antipope. 983 John XIV., Pavia. 985 John XV., Rome. 996 Gregory V. (Bruno), Saxony. 998 John XVII. (Antipope). 999 Sylvester II. (Gerbert), Auvergne. 1003 John XVI., Rome. 1003 John XVII., Rome. 1009 Sergius TV., Rome. 1021 Benedict VIIL, Tusculum. 1024 John XVIIX, Tusculum. 1033 Benedict IX., Tusculum. 1044 Sylvester III. (Antipope). M4fi Gregory YX, Rome. Began to reign. Country. A.D. 1047 Clement II. (Suidger), Saxony. 1048 Damasus IL, Boppa, Bavaria. 1049 St. Leo IX., Bruno, Alsace. 1055 Victor IL, Gebhard, Bavarian Tyrol. 1057 Stephen X., Lorraine. 1058 Benedict X. {Antipope), Rome. 1058 Nicholas II. (Gherardus), Burgundy. 1061 Alexander II. (Radagio), Milan. 1061 Bonorius II. (Cadalous of Parma), Anti- pope. 1073 Gregory VII. (Hildebrand, or Aldrobrand- eschi), Soana in Tuscany. 1080 Clement II. (Guibert of Ravenna), Anti pope. 1086 Victor III. (Epifani), Beneventum. 1088 Urban II., Rheims. 1099 Paschal IL, Bieda. 1100 Albert (Antipope), Atella. 1102 'Fheodoric (Antipope), Rome. 1102 Sylvester III. (Antipope), Rome. 1118 Gelasius II. (Giov. Caetani), Gaeta. 1118 Gregory VIII (Antipope), Spain. 1119 CalixtKS IX, Burgundy. 1124 Honorius II., Bologna. 1124 Tlvedbald (" Bocca di Pec&re "), Antipope. 1130 Innocent II. (Papareschi), Rome. 1130 Anacletus II. (Antipope), 1 138 Victor IV. (Antipope). 1143 Celestin II., Citta di Castello. ] 144 Lucius II., Bologna. 1145 Eugenius IIL (Paganelli), Pisa, 1150 Anastasius IV., Rome. 1154 Adrian IV. (Nicholas Breakspeare), Lang- ley, England. 1159 Alexander HI. (BandineUi), Siena. 1159 Victor IV. (Cardinal Octavian), Antipope. Rome. 1164 Paschal III. (Antipope), Cremona. 1169 Calixtus III. (Antipope), Hungary. 1178 Innocent III (Antipope), Rome. 1181 Lucius HL, Lucca. 1185 Urban III. (Crivelli), Milan. 1187 Gregory VIII. (di Morra), Beneventum. 1187 Clement III. (Scolari), Rome. 1191 Celestin III. (Orsini), Rome. 1198 Innocent III. (Conti), Anagni. 1216 Honorius IIL (Savelli), Rome. 1227 Gregory IX. (Conti), Anagni. 1241 Celestin IV. (Castiglioni), Milan. 1243 Innocent IV. (Fieschi), Genoa. 1254 Alexander IV. (Conti), Anagni. 1261 Urban IV., Troyes. 1261 Clement IV. (Foucauld), Narbonne. 1271 Gregory X. (Visconti), Piacenza. 1276 Innocent V-, Moutiers, Savoy. 1276 Adrian V. (Fieschi), Genoa. 1276 John XIX. or XX. or XXL, Lisbon. 1277 Nicholas IIL (Orsini), Rome. 1281 Martin IV., Champagne. 1285 Honorius IV. (Savelli), Rome. 1287 Nicholas IV. (Masci), Ascoli. 1292 Celestin V. (Pietro da Morroue), Molese, Naples. 1294 Boniface VIIL (Benedetto Caetani), Anagni. 1303 Benedict XL (Boccasini), Treviso. 1305 Clement V. (de Couth), Bordeaux. 1316 John XXIX (Jacques d'Euse), Cahors. c2 Hi § 59. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES. Borne. to reign. Country. A.D. 1334 Nicholas V. (Antipope at Eome), Rieti. 1334 Benedict XII. (Jacques Fournier), Foix. 1342 Clement VI. (Pierre Roger de Beaufort), ¦ Limoges. 1352 Innocent VI. (Etienne Aubert), Limoges 1362 Urban V.(Guillaumede Grimoard), Mende. 1370 Gregory XL (Roger de Beaufort), Limoges. 1378 Urban VI. (Bartolommeo Prignani), Naples. 1387 Clement VII, {Robert of Geneva), Antipope at Avignon. 1389 Boniface IX. (Pietro Tomacelli), Naples. 1394 Benedict XIII. (Pedro de Luna, a Spaniard), Antipope at Avignon. 1404 Innocent VII. (Cosmato de' Miliorati), Sulmona. 1406 Gregory XH. (Angelo Correr), Venice. 1409 Alexander V. (Petrus Phylargyrius), Candia. 1410 John XXIH. (Baldassare Cossa), Naples. 1417 Martin V. (Oddone Colonna), Rome. 1424 Clement VIII. (a Spaniard), Antipope at Avignon. 1431 Eugenius LV, (Gabriele Condolmieri), Venice. 1439 Felix V. {Antipope). [End of the Western Scbism.l 1447 Nicholas V. (Tommaso Parentucelli, or Tomasso di Sarzana), Sarzana. 1455 Calixtus III. (Alfonso Borgia), Valencia. 1458 Pius II. (iEneas Sylvius Piccolomini), Pienza. 1464 Paul II. (Pietro Barbo), Venice. 1471 Sixtus IV. (Francesco della Rovere), Sa- vona. 1484 Innocent VIII. (Gio-Battista Cibo), Genoa. 1492 Alexander VI. (Roderigo Lenzoli Borgia), Spain. 1503 Pius IIL (Antonio Todeschini Piccolomini), Siena. 1503 Julius II. (Giuliano della Rovere), Savona, 1513 Leo X (Giovanni de* Medici), Florence. 1522 Adrian VI. (Adrian Florent), Utrecht 1523 Clement VII. (Giuliode' Medici), Florence. 1534 Paul III. (Alessandro Farnese), Rome. 1550 Julius IIL (Gio. Maria Ciocchi del Monte), Monte San Savino in Tuscany. 1555 Marcellus II. (Marcello Cervini), Monte- pulciano. 1555 Paul IV. (Gio Pietro Caraffa), Naples. 1559 Pius IV. (Giovan- Angelo de' Medici), Milan. 1566 St. Pius V. (Michele Ghislieri), near Alex andria. 1572 Gregory XIII. (Ugo Buoncompagni), Bo logna. 1585 Sixtus V. (Felice Peretti), of Montalto, Country. Began to reign. A.D. born at Grottamare, in the March of Ancona. 1590 Urban VIL (Gio-Battista Castagno),'Rome. 1590 Gregory XIV. (Nicolo Sfrondati), Crempna. 1591 Innocent IX. (Giov Antonio Facchinetti), Bologna. 1592 Clement VIH. (Ippolito Aldobrandini), of a Florentine family, but born at Fano. 1605 Leo XI. (Alessandro Ottaviano tie' Medici), Florence. 1605 Paul V. (Camillo Borghese), Rome. 1621 Gregory XV. (Alessandro .Ludovisi), Bo logna. 1623 Urban VIIL fMatteo Barberini), Florence. 1644 Innocent X. (Gio-Battista Pamfili), Rome. 1655 Alexander VIL (Fabio Chigi), Siena. 1667 Clement IX. (Giulio Rospigliosl), Pistoja, 1670 Clement X. (Gio-Battista Altieri), Rome. 1676 Innocent XI. (Benedetto Odescalchi), Oomo, 1689 Alexander VIII. (Pietro Ottoboni), Venice. 1691 Innocent XII. (Antonio Pignatelli), Naples. 1700 Clement XL (Gio. Francesco Albani), Ur- bino. 1721 Innocent XIII. (Michelangelo Conti), Rome, 1724 Benedict XIH. (Pietro Francesco Orsini), Rome. 1730 Clement XII. (Lorenzo Corsini), Florence. 1740 Benedict XIV. (Prospero Lambertini), Bo- 1758 Clement XIII. (Carlo Rezzonico), Venice. 1769 Clement XIV. (Lorenzo Francesco Gan- ganelli), Sant' Arcangelo, near Rimini. 1775 Pius VI. (Angelo Braschi), Cesena. 1800 Pius VIL (Gregorio. Barnabe Chiaramonti), Cesena. 1823 Leo XII. (Annibale della Genga), Spoleto. 1829 Pius VIH. (Francesco Xaviere Castiglione), Cingoli. 1831 Gregory XVI. (Mauro Cappellari), Belluno. 1846 Pius IX. (Giovanni Maria Mastai-Ferretti), born at Sinigallia, May 13, 1792 ; created Cardinal December 23, 1839 ; elected Pope June 16, 1846. The present Pontiff has already attained the 26th year of his long and eventful reign, longer than ever reached by any of his predecessors in the Chair of St. Peter. Rome occupied by the Italian army, September 20, 1870 — with which ends the temporal power of the Holy See. Despoiled of his states, and the greater part of them seized upon by King Victor Emanuel in 1S70. 1870 Victor Emanuel proclaimed King of Italy. 1871 The first Legislature proclaimed at Rome. Its first sitting in December, 1871. Rome. § 60. stranger's diary. § 60. STRANGER'S DIARY IN ROME GALLERIES. Barberini, every day, 1 to 4 o'clock ; except Thursday, 2 to 4. Borghese, pictures in the Palace, on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from 9 to 3 o'clock ; the Casino in the Villa Borghese, containing the sculp tures, on Saturday only, 2 to 4. Capitol, every day, 10 to 3 o'clock. Colonna, every day, 12 to 3 o'clock. Corsini, on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, 9 to 3 o'clock, and on the 1st and 1 5th of every month, and daily from Palm Sunday until that after Easter. Doria, Tuesdays and Fridays, 10 to 2 o'clock. Farnese Palace, on Friday, 1 1 to 4. The Farnesina Palace, with Ra phael frescoes, open on 1st and 15th of the month from 8 until mid-day. Lateran Museum, every day, 10 to 3 o'clock. Monte di Pieta\ only open by special permission of the Director. Rospigliosi Palace Casino, Wed nesdays and Saturdays, 9 to 3 o'clock. Sciarra, Saturday, 10 to 3 o'clock. St. Luca, every day, 10 to 3 o'clock. Spada Palace. Of late the Spada Pompey alone shown ; the galleries closed. Vatican Museum, open with a Permission through the Foreign Mi nisters and Consuls, or on application to Cardinal Antonelli or the Pope's Majordomo. Kircherian Museum at the Collegio Romano (the bronzes and marbles alone shown), every Sunday, 10 to Hi o'clock; ladies not admitted, it being in the interior of a convent. VILLAS. Aleani, Tuesday, 12 to 4 o'clock ; permission required from Prince Tor- Ionia, the present owner, or at the Banking-house of Messrs. Spada, Flamini and Co., Bankers, No. 11, Via Condotti. Borghese, the grounds, every day, except Monday after 12 o'clock; the Museum of Sculpture at the Villa Bor* ghese, only on Saturday, 2 to 4 o'clock. Ludovisi, Thursday, 12 to 4 o'clock, when the family does not reside there (from May to July) ; permission to be obtained by addressing a written appli cation to Prince Piombino, Piazza Colonna. This Villa, now tenanted by King Victor Emanuel, is for the pre sent closed to visitors. Medici Gardens, every day after 3 o'clock. Entrance through the Palace of the Acade'mie de France. Pamfili, for riding and driving, on Mondays and Fridays. Torlonia, outside the Porta Pia, Wednesdays, 1 to 3 o'clock ; permission at Prince Torlonia's, Via dei Fornari . Orti Farnesiani, Excavations on the site of the Palace of the Caesars, on Sundays and Thursdays, from 12 to 4. Wolkonsky's Villa, on the Ccelian : permission to be obtained at the Rus sian Embassy. The custodi are in the habit of re ceiving a gratuity, at the Vatican, Capitol, and private galleries. Permissions for the Catacombs — ex cept those of St. Sebastian, which are always open — are obtained at the Car dinal-Vicar's offices, No. 70, Via della Scrofa ; those for the Dome of St. Peter's, the Vatican Gardens, the Mo saic Manufactory, and the Quirinal Palace (when not inhabited by the king or royal family), from the autho rities, through the diplomatic missions. The Crypt or Confessional of St. Peter's is shown to gentlemen without an order before 11 a.m. ; for ladies a special permission is required, which is easily obtained from the Cardinal Datario on paying a small fee through a banker, or at Spithover's Library. The Dome of St. Peter's is open to the Public on Thursdays; for Civilians, from 8 to 11 a.m., and for the Military, from 3 to 5 p.m., and daily, except on Feast days, at the same hours, with a special permission, to be obtained of Monsignor Theodoli, Economo de San Pietro. c3 liv § 61. CHURCH FESTIVALS AND CEREMONIES. Rome. § 61. A LIST OP THE PRINCIPAL CHURCH FESTIVALS AND CEREMONIES AT ROME, IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER.* January. 1. Feast of the Circumcision. — High mass in the presence of the Pope and Cardinals at 10 a.m. (p. 117); high mass at the churches of II Gesu and San Andrea della Valle, the latter fol lowed by a sermon and Te Deum. 6. Feast of the Epiphany. — High mass at the Sixtine Chapel. High mass according to the Greek rite at 11 in the church of St. Anastasius, in the Via di Babuino. Masses in the chapel of the Propaganda according to the Oriental rituals. 17. Feast of St. Antony the Ab bot, in the ch. near Santa Maria Mag- giore: Benediction of the Animals (p. 145). 18. Feast of the Chair of St. Peter (Catedra di S. Pietro). — High mass in the basilica of the Vatican, by the Card. Arch-Priest in the presence of the Pope. Feast of Sta. Prisca, on the Aventiue, a ch. seldom open. 20. Feast of S. Fabianus and S. Se bastian, at the basilica of the latter on the Via Appia. 21. Feast of S. Agnes, at Sant' Ag nese, in Piazza Navona, when the sub terranean chapel is open (p. 141), and especially at Sant' Agnese fuori le Mura, with the blessing of the Lambs (P- 1«). 25. Feast of the Conversion of St. Paul, at S. Paolo fuori le Mura : ex position of St. Paul's chains. 1 . Feast of St. Ignotius of Antioch, . n the church of San Clemente, during which the subterranean Basilica is lighted up. 2. Feast of the Purification. — * The visitor will find all the other holidays, Church festivals and ceremonies, noticed in detail in the ' Diario Romano,' au almanac published on authority at the commencement of each year, and in ' L'Annee Liturgique a Rome,1 par le Chauoine Barbier de Montault. The most remarkable are described in the present volume under the heads of the Churches where they take place. High mass at St. Peter's at 1 1 ; before which the Pope distributes the blessed candles (p. 117). Many of the other festivals in this and the following month and in April being moveable ones, their exact dates cannot be given, as they depend on that of Easter Sunday. The principal are Ash Wednesday (p. 117) and those during the Holy Week, which are fully noticed in describing the different churches where they are celebrated, pp. 117 to 122, 129, 160, &c. On every Friday in Lent the Pope visits the basilica of the Vatican at 4 o'clock to pray before the tomb of St. Peter, when there is fine music. It is also during Lent that stations are appointed at different churches, which are much resorted to; several of these edifices may then be seen which are seldom open except at very early hours on other occasions. Of these stations the fol lowing will be worth noting : — Ash Wednesday — at S. Sabina, S. Alessio, and S. Maria in Cosmedin. lsi Thurs. in Lent — San Giorgio in Velabro: seldom open on other occa sions (p. 162). 2nd Tues. in L. — Sant' Anastasia (p. 143). 2nd Thurs. in L. — San Lorenzo in Panis-Perna, ch. seldom open (p. 166). 2nd Sund. in L. — S. Maria in Dom- nica (p. 177). 2nd Mond. in L. — S. Clemente (p. 1 51), and subterranean church lighted up. 2nd Tues. in L. — Sta. Balbina, ch. very seldom open (p. 147). 2nd Wed. in L. — Sta. Cecilia, statue uncovered (p. 150). 2nd Frid. in L.—S. Vitale (p. 202). 3rd Mond. in L. — Santa Francesca Romana, when the ch. and convent of the Tor' de' Specchi is open to the public (p. 161). 3rd Tues. in L.— Santa Pudenziana, near Sta. Maria Maggiore, interesting ch. (p. 193). 3rd Wed. in L.— San Sisto and SS. Rome. § 61. CHURCH FESTIVALS AND CEREMONIES. lv Nereo ed Achilleo, near the Porta S. Sebastiano (pp. 199 and 185). 3rd Frid. in L. — Santa Susanna, near the Piazza de' Termini (p. 199). ith Sund. in L. — Santa Croce in Ge- rusalemme (p. 160). ith Mond. in L. — I Santi Quattro Incoronati (p. 194). ith Frid. in L. — Santa Bibiana, on the Esquiline, ch. very seldom open (p. 148). ith Sat. in L. — S. Nicolo in Carcere. On this day, at vespers, all the images in churches are veiled over until Good Friday (pp. 38 and 185). 5th Sund. in L., or Passion Sunday. — St. Peter's. 5ft Thurs. in L. — S. Apollinare, near the Piazza Navona : exhibition of relics (p. 146). 5th Frid. in L. — San Stefano Ro- tondo (p. 199). 5th Sat. in L. — San Giovanni a Porta Latina and San Cesareo ; churches very seldom open (pp. 164, 151) 6th Sund. in L., or Palm Sunday (P- H7). 6th Mond. in L. — San Prassede, near Sta. Maria Maggiore ; subterranean ch. open (p. 191). 6ft Mond. in L. — Santa Prisca (p. 192). Returning now to the feasts and ceremonies on fixed dates : — February. 12. Feast of S. Catherine of Siena — at SS. Domenico e Sisto : exhibition of her hand and shoulder-blade here and at the neighbouring church of Sta. Caterina (pp. 149, 161). March. 12. Feast of S. Gregory the Great — at S. Gregorio al Monte Celio (p. 164). 16. Feast of San FUippo Neri — at the chapel in Pal. Massimo, where he resuscitated one of the family (p. 301). 17. Feast of St. Patrick — at the ch. of the Irish Franciscan Convent of Sant' Isidoro (p. 165), with a sermon and eulogium of the protector of Ire land ; also at the ch. of S. Agata de' Goti(p. 139). High mass in both. 25. Feast of the Annunciation — high mass in the presence of the Pope at Santa Maria sopra Minerva, &c. (p. 174). 31. Feast of Santa Balbina (p. 147). April. 21. Anniversary of the Founda tion of Rome, 2617 years ago. 23. Feast of St. George — at S. Giorgio in Velabro, where his skull, standard, &c, are exposed (p. 162). 25. Feast of St. Mark the Evan gelist. — Grand procession of the clergy from the ch. behind the Piazza di Ve nezia to St. Peter's (p. 168). 29. Feast of St. Peter Martyr— at the ch. of the Minerva. Ladies are allowed to visit the room of St. Cathe rine of Siena in the Sacristy on this day. 3. Festival of the Invention of the Holy Cross — at Santa Croce in Geru- salemme, when a portion of our Sa viour's Cross is shown (p. 160). 6. Martyrdom of St. John the Evangelist — in ch. at the Porta La tina (p. 164). The 2 great moveable feasts in this month are that of — The Ascension of our Lord — grand high mass at the Lateran, with the Pope's benediction from the balcony of the basilica ; and 14 days later (p. 125). The Pentecost, Whit Sunday — when there is high mass at the Sixtine Chapel. 19. Festival of S. Pudentiana — open rarely, except at an early hour (p. 193). 26. Feast of San Filippo Neri — high mass in the presence of the Pope and Cardinals in the ch. of Santa Maria in Vallicella (p. 183). June. 4. Feast of the Corpus Domini — high mass in the Sixtine Chapel, after which the Pope carries in procession the Holy Sacrament to the Vatican Basilica. 24. Nativity of St. John the Ivi § 61. CHURCH FESTIVALS AND CEREMONIES. Rome. Baptist — high mass in presence of the Pope and Cardinals at the Lateran (p. 125). 29. Feast of St. Peter and St. Paul — high mass by the Pope at St. Peter's (p. 121) at 9 a.m. Exposition of the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul at the Lateran (p. 126). Illumination of the cupola of St. Peter's, and fireworks on the Monte Gianicolo, in front of the ch. of S. Pietro in Montorio. August. 1. Feast at S. Pietro in Vincoli — when the chains of St. Peter are ex hibited (p. 189). 15. Feast of the Assumption — high mass at Santa Maria Maggiore, in the presence of the Pope and Cardinals (p. 129). 25. Feast of St. Louis — mass in presence of the College of Cardinals at the ch. of San Luigi de' Francesi (p. 167). 7. The Nativity of the Virgin — high mass at Santa Maria del Popolo, in presence of the Pope and Cardinals. 29. Feast of St. Michael the Archangel. November. 1. All Saints— high mass at the Sixtine Chapel : fine music in the ora tory at Sta. Maria in Vallicella, and which is continued on the evening of the feast of Sta. Cecilia and on every Sunday in Advent and Lent until Palm Sunday (p. 183). 2. All Souls — high mass at the Sixtine Chapel. 4. Feast of St. Charles Borromeo — high mass in presence of the Pope at the ch. of San Carlo in Corso (p. 149). 22. Festival of Santa Cecilia — in the ch. of Sta. Cecilia in Traste- vere, when the rich ch. plate is exhi bited : fine music at the ch. in the evening (p. 150). On the same day the Catacomb of St. Callixtus, where the body of St. Cecilia was found, is open and lighted up (p. 355). 23. Feast of St. Clement— at the ch. of S. Clemente, when the subter ranean basilica is lighted up ; the best occasion to see its paintings, &c. (p. 155). During the 4 Sundays of Advent there is a Pontifical mass on each in the Sixtine Chapel, with a sermon. On the 1st the Pope carries the Holy Sa crament in procession to the Capella Paolina ; and oratorios in the Oratory attached to the ch. of Sta. Maria in Vallicella in the evenings of the same days (p. 183). December. 8. Feast of the Immaculate Con ception — Pontifical mass in the Six tine Chapel. 21. Feast of St. Thomas the Apos tle — the small ch. of S. Tommaso a Cenci is open on this day (p. 288). 24. Christmas Eve — nocturnal masses at the Sixtine, the Vatican, and other basilicas (pp. 122, 132, &c). The sacred manger-board is carried on this evening in grand procession to the high altar at Santa Maria Maggiore. Fine music at St. Luigi de' Francesi, at 11 p.m. (p. 167). 25. Christmas Day— high mass in St. Peter's by the Pope. For other ceremonies on this day, see pp. 122, 132, &c. 26. Feast of St. Stephen — high mass at the Sixtine, with a sermon by one of the pupils of the English College (p. 122). ^ 27. Feast of St. John the Evan gelist — mass at the Sixtine Chapel and at the Lateran, when the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are exhibited (pp. 122, 126). 29. Feast of St. Thomas of Can terbury (Beckett) — high mass in pre sence of a section of the College of Cardinals at the chapel of the English College, which can be best seen by strangers on this day (p. 200). 31. Feast of St. Silvester— Te Deum at the ch. of Gesil in the after' noon, in presence of the Pope, Cardinals, and municipality, to render thanks for the blessings received during the year about to end. Fine music (p. 162); also at S. Silvestro in Capite (p. 198). Rome. § 62. PUBLIC EDIFICES IN ROME. lvii § 62. PUBLIC EDIFICES IN ROME AT THE COMMENCEMENT OF 1872. Royal Palace, formerly the Quirinal and residence of the Pope, now of the King and Prince Royal. Ministries of the Interior and of the President of the Council, Palazzo Braschi. Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Palazzo Valentini, in the Piazza del Sante Apostoli. Ministries of Agriculture and Com merce, formerly the Stamperia Ca- merale, in the street of the same name. Ministries of Grace and Justice, in the Piazza di Firenze, formerly the Palace of the Grand-duke of Tuscany. Ministry of the Marine, or Admiralty, in the former convent of Sant Agostino : Convent of the same name. Ministry of La Guerra, or War, in the Convent of Santi Apostoli : Convent of the same name, Piazza delle Pilotta. Ministry of Lavori Publici, or Public Works, in the Convent of San Silvestro in Capite. Ministry delle Finanze, or Finances, in the abandoned Convent of La Mi nerva, more recently the American College, in the Piazza delle Minerva. Ministries delle Istruzzione Publica e Culti, or Public Instruction and Re ligion, Piazza Colonna. Camera del Senato, or House of As sembly of the Senate, formerly the Palazzo Madonna Treasury and Post Office, near the Palazzo Navona. Camera dei Deputati, or of the De puties or Lower House of Parliament, in the Palazzo di Monte Citorie: Piazza of the same name. Camera dei Conti, or Court of Ac counts, in the suppressed Convent of San Domenico e Sisto, on the Monte Cavallo. La Questura, or Head Police Office, in the suppressed Convent of San Silvestro in Capite, Via delle Mercede. Law Courts, Court of Assizes, See., in the suppressed Convent of the Filippini alia Chiesa Nova. Municipal Treasury, in the suppressed Convent of La Vergine, Via delle Ver- gine. Caso di Rispannio, or Savings' Bank, in a fine new building in the Piazza Sciarra. Prefettura di Roma, Prefecture of Rome, Palazzo Sinibaldi, Via di Torre Argentina. Telegrafi, General Telegraph Office, No. 127, Piazza di Monte Citerio. Direzzione delle Poste, General Post Office, Piazza Colonna. Bono, or Exchange, No. 8, Via dei Cesarini. Banks. Banco Nacionale, in the Palazza Rus- poli on the Corso. Entrance by the Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucana. Banco Romano, in the Palazzo of the same name, Via delle Stemata. Banco Generate di Roma, a new gene ral bank, by the greatest capitalists in Europe, and of immense credit, but not as the two former, issuing notes ; Pa- lazzetta Doria, Piazza di Venezia. lviii § 63: RELIGIOUS HOUSES SUPPRESSED. § 63. Religious Houses Suppressed since the Deposition of Pius IX. Santa Maria della Vittorla. Santa Maria Nova, or Filippino Con vent. Sant Onofrio al Graniculo Monastery. Sant Andrea delle Fratte Convent. Santa Maria in Via Lata Convent. Santa Maria deglo Scatelli Convent. San Guiseppe delle Lungara Convent. Santi Giovanni e Paolo Monastery. Sant Antonio I'Abbate Convent. Santa Theresa Convent. Santa Maria degli Angeli Convent. Sant Andrea di Monte Cavallo Con vent. SECTION I. DESCRIPTION OF ROME. CONTENTS. Page § 1 . General Topography . . 1 § 2. Rioni 2 § 3. Walls of Rome .... 5 § 4. Gates 5 § 5. Bridges 9 § 6. Panoramic View of Rome . 11 § 7. The Seven Hills .... 13 § 8. General Review of the Ruins 14 § 9. Forums 20 § 10. Ancient Palaces .... 27 § 11. Temples 35 § 12. Theatres and Amphitheatres 49 § 13. Columns 56 § 14. Arches 58 § 15. Baths 62 § 16. Tombs and Columbaria . . 67 § 17. Aqueducts 81 § 18. Miscellaneous. .... 84 § 19. Obelisks 91 § 20. Buildings of the Middle Ages 94 § 21. Fountains 95 § 22. Piazzas 97 § 23. Promenades,Public Walks, or Passeggiate 99 § 24. Basilicas 99 § 25. Churches 138 § 26. Palaces and Museums . . 202 § 27. Historical Houses . . .307 § 28. Colleges and Academies . 309 § 29. Hospitals and Charitable In stitutions 316 § 30. Protestant Burial-ground . 321 § 31. Climate 322 §32. Geology of the Country about Rome 328 § 33. Villas 335 § 34. Catacombs 347 § 35. Plan for visiting the Sights of Rome in 8 days, accord ing to Local Arrangement 363 § 1. General Topography. Rome is situated in the centre nearly of the Campagna, that undulating tract which lies between the Sabine Apen nines and the Ciminian range of hills on the N., and the low country extending along the shores of the Mediterranean on the W. Its geo graphical position, at the Observa tory of the Collegio Romano, is lat. 41° 53' 52" N., long. 12° 28' 40" E. of Greenwich ; and its height above the sea on the mean level of the Tiber under the iElian Bridge, 20 ft. It is 13 geog. m. distant in a straight line from the nearest point of the sea-coast, \Rome.~] The modern city is built in the plain which lies on each bank of the Tiber, and on the slopes of the 7 hills which formed such well-known features in the topo graphy of ancient Rome. The height of these hills, within the circuit of the pre sent walls, varies from 120 to 180 ft. above the river. The Tiber divides the city into 2 unequal portions, tra versing it from N. to S. in a winding course of about 3 miles. On the 1. bank, the Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal, and Capitoline hills form a kind of amphitheatre, encircling the irregular flat of the ancient Campus Martius. This area includes the principal portion of the modern city, the seat of trade,, and. 2 §2. contains the great bulk of the population. It is traversed by the Corso, the main street of Rome, about 1 m. in length, extending from the Porta del Popolo on the N., and terminating on the S. in the Piazza di Venezia, at the northern foot of theCapitoline hill. To the S. and E. of this district are the Palatine, the Aventine, the Esquiline, and the Cslian hills, which, though included within the walls, are comparatively uninhabited. Their surface is covered with vineyards and gardens, and presents scarcely any other habitations save a few convents, villas, and houses of market-gardeners. The Corso, which, in its N. portion, follows the line of the ancient Via Flaminia, and nearer the Capitol of the Via Lata, divides the principal district of modern Rome into 2 parts ; that on the E. is built upon the slopes and at the base of the Pincian and the Quirinal, and on part of the plateau Which unites these hills towards the E. with the Viminal and the Esqui line. This is the quarter where foreign visitors chiefly reside ; it contains the best streets and the most modern houses, and is one of the healthiest parts of the city. The higher portion of it is intersected by 2 long streets : one, the Via di Porta Pia, nearly 1 m. in length, leads from the gate of that name, at the N.E. angle of the city, to the Quirinal Palace; the other in a straight line from the Trinita de' Monti, on the Pincian, to the Basilicas of Santa Maria Maggiore and of Santa Croce, crossing successively the Qui rinal, Viminal, and Esquiline hills, and the intervening valleys. On the rt. bank of the Tiber lies the narrow fiat which contains the districts of the Borgo and Trastevere. It is bounded on the W. by a ridge of hills about li m. in length from N. to S. The principal eminences of this ridge within the walls are the Vatican and the Janiculum, which preserve nearly un altered their ancient names. Beyond the ¦W alls the picturesque Monte Marib, with its villas and cypress plantations', may be considered the continuation of this elevated ridge drithe.N., anil i,he hill of Sta. Passera beyond the Porta Portese on the S, T«6 Trastevere and the Borgo are RIONI. Rome. united by the street of the Lungara, built by Sixtus V. in the level space between the Tiber and the declivity of the Janiculum. § 2. Division of Rome into Quarters or Rioni. The Rome of the middle ages, which rose from the ruins of the ancient city, had nearly disappeared at the beginning of the 16th century ; and scarcely any part of the present city is older than the time of Sixtus V., who first began to rebuild it in the form in which we now see it. It is divided into 14 Rioni or quarters, a name derived from the ancient Regiones ; 12 of which are on the 1., and 2 on the rt. bank of the Tiber. They are irregular in their boundaries and outline, having been defined more in accordance with the modern population than with the natural configuration of the ground ; they are consequently very numerous in the mo dern city, which comprises 11 within its circuit, while the more extensive area of the ancient has only 3. From this it will be seen that they have no correspondence, although agreeing in number, with the Regions into which Rome was divided in the time of Augus7 tus. In the middle ages the Rioni had their councils, their captains, and their trained bands ; but though they still retain their banners, and carry them in the great processions, their municipal jurisdiction has merged in the Pre sident! de' Rioni, who are magistrates appointed by the government, and members of the Tribunale del Campi- doglio, the civil and police court over which the Senator of Rome presides. Of the 11 Rioni which the modern city includes, the 2 most northern are intersected by the Corso ; the third spreads over the Quirinal from the Corso to the N.E. angle of the walls ; 6 lie between the lower half of the Corso and the Tiber ; and 2 are situated on the rt. bank of the river. A rapid survey of these districts will enable us to pass in review the localities of many, interesting objects. I.ThieRione Campo Marzo commences at the Porto del Popolp, embracing all the norlheril ah£le Sect. I. § 2. RIONI. of the city from the Pincian to the river behind the little Piazza Nicosia. About a third of the Corso, at its northern end, lies within it. On the E. of the Corso it includes the public gardens on thePincian, the Villa Medici, the Trinita de' Monti, the Piazza Mignanelli, Piazza di Spagna, the Via del Babuino, and the Piazza del Popolo. Between the Corso and the river it contains the mausoleum of Augustus, the Hospital of S. Giacomo and Ch. of S. Carlo, the quay called the Porto di Ripetta and the street of the same name, the Borghese, Fiano (under which some fine architectural frag ments, probably of the Augustan age, have been recently discovered), and the Ruspoli palaces. 2. The Rione Colonna extends alongthe depression between the Pincian and the Quirinal, from the city walls on the N.E. nearly to the Pan theon, crossing the Corso, and including its central portion. The principal ob jects in this district, on the E. of the Corso, are the Ludovisi Gardens, the Porta Pinciana, and the chs. and con vents of the Capuchins and of S. Isi dore W. of the Corso are the Piazza Colonna, with the Antonine column ; the Chigi and Piombino palaces ; Monte Citorio, with the palace of the Curia Innocenziana, the Capranica Theatre, and the Temple of Neptune, now the Custom-house, in the Piazza di Pietra. 3. The Rione Trevi extends from the N.E. walls between the Porta Salaraand Porta Pia to the Corso, which forms its boun dary on the W. On the S.E. it is bounded by the long street of the Porta Pia, It includes the gardens of Sallust and the Villa Rignano Massimo, the Pope's palace on the Quirinal, the Pal. Barberini, the Colonna Palace and gar dens, the Piazza of the SS. Apostoli, the Piazza della Pilotta, and the fountain of Trevi, from which it derives its name. 4. The Rione Pigna joins the former at the Corso, and extends westward over the Campus Martius. It includes the Collegio Romano, and ch. of S. Ignazio, the Pantheon, the Piazza and Ch. of the Minerva, the Bonaparte, Doria, and Altieri palaces, the Ch. of Gesii, the Piazza and Palazzo di Venezia. 5. The Rione S. Eustachio, a long strip in me heart of tlie Campus Martius, lies along the western side of the former district. It includes the ch. from which it derives its name, the University of la Sapienza, the Post office in the Pal. Madama, the Valle and Argentina theatres, and the churches of S. Agostino, S. Andrea della Valle, S. Luigi dei Francesi, and S. Carlo ai Catinari. 6. The Rione Ponte, another unattractive part of the city, encloses the angle formed by the bend of the Tiber below the castle of St. Angelo. It in cludes the Apollo Theatre and the Piazza del Ponte leading to the Bridge of St. An gelo, and the churches of S. M. della Pace,deH'Anima,andS.Gio.diFiorentini. 7. The Rione Parione, situated between the two former districts in the heart of the city, comprises the Piazza Navona (the site of the Circus Agonalis), the Palazzo della Cancellaria, the Piazzas Sforza and of the Campo di Fiore, the Massimo, Gabrielli, and Braschi palaces, the churches of SautaMaria in Vallicella and of S. Lorenzo in Damaso, and the site of the Theatre of Pompey. 8. The Rione Regola lies along the bank of the river opposite to the upper half of the Trastevere. It includes the Farnese, Spada, and Cenci palaces, and the English College. The Ponte Sisto, the ancient Pons Janiculensis, crosses the river from its centre. The fine street formed by the Via del Fontanone and , the Via Giulia, nearly A m_ ;n length, runs parallel to the Tiber through a great part of this Rione and that of Ponte, extending from the Ponte Sisto to near the bridge of St. Angelo ; the ruins of the Theatre of Balbus are situated atits S.E. extremity. 9. The Rione S. Angelo, a small district between the Pigna and the river, lies at the back of the Capitol, and opposite the island of the Tiber. It is a low and dirty quarter ; the principal ob jects of interest in it are the ruins of the Theatre of Marcellus and of the Portico of Octavia, the Orsini Palace, and the Ch. of S. Niccold in Carcere, on the site of the temples of Juno Matuta, Hope, and Piety. Partly in this region and partly in that of Regola is the Ghetto, the quar ter of the Jews. The Pons Fabricius, now the Ponte de Quattro Capi, crosses from this quarter to the island of the Tiber. 10, The Trastevere lies between B 2 § 2. RIONI. Rome. the Janiculum and the Tiber, and extends along the rt. bank of the river, from the Hospital of Santo Spirito on the N., to the Porta Portese at the extremity of the city walls on the S. It includes at this southern angle the quay or port of the Ripa Grande, and the vast hospital and prison of San Michele, and the great snuff and tobacco manufactory. The central portion of this Rione covers the site of the ancientRegio Transtiber- ina ; and the Ch. of S. Pietro in Montorio occupies a part of the site of the Arx Janiculensis of the kingly period. The most interesting objects in this Rione are the Farnesina, Corsini, and Salviati palaces, the Botanic Garden, the Churches of S. Onofrio, S. Pietro in Montorio, S. Crisogono, Sta. Maria in Trastevere, and Sta. Caecilia, the Fountain of the Acqua Paola, the Be nedictine Convent of S. Calisto, the Convent of S. Francesco a Ripa, and the villas Barberini, Spada and Lante. The whole district is inhabited by a peculiar, and in many respects a dis tinct race ; their dialect, their customs, their fine physical characteristics, and their spirit of haughty seclusion, which refuses to mix or intermarry with the inhabitants of the other quar ters of the city, give interest to the tradition that they are of the purest blood of the ancient Romans. The Trastevere is separated by a high wall from the Borgo, with which it com municates by the gate of Santo Spi rito. 11. The Borgo, or the Citta Leo- nina, was founded in the ninth century by Leo IV., who surrounded it with walls to protect it from the attacks of the Moorish pirates. It is the northern district of Rome on the rt. bank of the river. It includes the Castle of St. Angelo, the fields to the E. of which were the Prata Quintia, where the envoys from the Senate came to oifer the dictatorship to Camillus, the Hospital of Santo Spirito, the Vatican Palace and gardens, and the Basilica of St. Peter's. It was the district inhabited by the Anglo-Saxon pilgrims in the early ages of the Church ; hence the name of Sassia, applied to it in the middle ages. Besides the leading ob jects of interest already mentioned, the district contains the Giraud Palace, built by Bramante, and interesting to British travellers as the residence of the ambassadors of England prior to the Reformation. These eleven Rioni comprehend the largest and most im portant portion of modern Rome. The three remaining include the ancient city. 12. The Rione Monti, by far the largest in extent of all these divisions, is inhabited also by a peculiar class, who pride themselves on their descent from the ancient Romans. This large district commences at the Porta Pia, and extends along the whole line of the city wall as far as the Porta Metronia, now closed, skirting the Coliseum and the Capitol on the W., and embracing the Viminal, the Esquiline, and part of the Cselian hills. It includes within this extensive area the Praetorian camp, the Baths of Diocletian and of Titus, the Forum of Trajan, the Baths of Paulus iEniilius, the so-called Temple of Minerva Medica, the fountain and reser voir called the Trophies of Marius, the Ainphitheatrum Castrense, the 3 Basi licas of Sta. Croce in Gerusalemme, of the Lateran, and Sta. Maria Maggiore; the churches of S. Martino ai Monti, S. Clemente, S. Pietro in Vincoli, and Sta. Francesca Romana ; the Rospigliosi Pa lace; the Massimo, Negroni, Altieri, and Strozzi villas ; the Rly. Stat., and the E. side of the Forum Romanum. 1 3. The Rione Campitelli, on the S.E. of the city, extends from the northern flanks of the Capitoline hill to the Porta Appia, or gate of St. Sebastian. It comprehends the most interesting portion of ancient Rome, including the Capitol, a part of the Forum, the Coliseum, the Palatine, with the Palace of the Caesars. We find also in this district the Passionist Con vent of SS. Giovanni e Paolo on the Crclian, the Church and Convent of S. Gregorio, the Villa Mattei ; near its ex- tremeanglestoodthePortaCapenaofthe Servian wall, the commencement of the Appian Way, beyond which is the Tomb of the Scipios. 14. The Rione Ripa, the last of the modern districts, embraces all the southern quarter of Rome between the Caelian and the river, including the Aventine and Monte Testaccio, the holiday resprt of the mpdern citizens, Sect. I. § 3. WALLS. — § 4. GATES. and the island of S. Bartolommeo. This island, celebrated for the Temple of iEsculapius, and well known to clas sical readers as the " Ship of the Tiber," is about 1100 ft. long and 330 ft. wide in its broadest part. It. contains the church of S. Bartolommeo and the hospital of S. Giovanni Calabita. The Pons Gratianus or Cestius crosses from its southern side to the Trastevere. The objects of most interest in the Rione Ripa are the Temples of Fortuna Virilis and the so -called one of Vesta in the irregular open space of the Bocca della Verita, the Arch of Janus, the Cloaca Maxima, the Circus Maximus, the ruined Emilian or Senatorial Bridge now the Ponte Rotto, the Baths of Caracalla, the Pyramid of Caius Cestius, the Protestant burial- ground, and the churches of Sta. Maria in Cosmedin, Sta. Sabina, S. Alessio, il Priorato, Sta. Saba, Sta. Prisca, and Sta. Anastasia; and all the 1. bank of the Tiber from Ponte Rotto downwards. § 3. The Walls. The Walls of Rome, including those of the Trastevere and the Vatican, are from 12 to 13 m. in circuit. The length of that portion which encom passes the city on the 1. bank of the Tiber is about 8 m. ; the length of the more recent walls which bound the district beyond the river is very nearly 4 m. The walls on the 1. bank are, with slight deviations, the same as those commenced by Aurelian in a.d. 271, and completed in the reign of Probus. They were repaired by Honorius, Theodoric, Belisarius, and Narses, and by several popes ; many of these restorations were obviously made in a hurried manner and for temporary purposes ; hence so many varieties of masonry are visible that it is often difficult to decide to what pe riod their construction severally belongs. The last great and general repairs were made in 1749 by Benedict XIV., who rebuilt the parts of the walls which had become dilapidated, and repaired all the gates. The walls throughout their entire circuit on the 1. bank pre sent an irregular polygonal outline ; they are built generally of brick, with occasional patches of stonework ; at some points there al'e spaces in opus reticulatum of the best imperial times (the Muro Torto, near the Porta del Popolo). They have no ditch, but are crested with nearly 300 towers ; on the outside they are about 50 ft. in height ; on the inner face, where they are strengthened by numerous but tresses, the accumulation of soil is so considerable that they seldom rise so high as .30 ft. from the ground. There are 20 gates belonging to the modern city, but 7 of thein are now walled up. In taking a general survey of these gates, commencing from the Porta del Popolo, we shall notice such peculiari ties of the walls as are worthy of obser vation. This will bring the whole sub ject into one view, and prevent repetition. § 4. Gates. 1. Porta del Popolo; erected in 1561 by Vignola, from the design of Mi chel Angelo. The ancient Porta Fla- minia, by which the Flaminian Way entered the city, was situated a, little higher up ; beyond is the mass of opus reticiUatumcalleA the Muro Torto. This very curious fragment is well known from the description of Procopius : he says that the wall had been rent for some time from top to bottom, that it was so inclined that, Belisarius wishing to pull it down and rebuild it, the people would not allow it to be re moved, stating that it was under the protection of St. Peter. The Goths, he adds, never attacked it, which made the people regard the spot with so much veneration that no one has ever at tempted to rebuild it. This descrip tion applies so perfectly at the present day that it leaves nothing for us to add, except that the wall, which is about 40 ft. in length, is considerably out of the perpendicular, and that anti quaries consider it to be as old as the time of the early Caesars. Some writers have endeavoured to connect the Muro Torto with the tomb of Nero, but there are not the slightest grounds for the conjecture. It is true that the tomb of the Domitian family, in which the ashes of Nero were deposited, was situated on the Pincian, near the Fla minian Way, and was visible from the § 4. GATES. Rome. Campus Martius. Its site therefore may safely be placed on the western slopes of the modern gardens, not far from the Porta del Popolo; hut not a vestige remains to enable us to identify the spot. Beyond the Muro Torto are several arches which appear to have formed the substructions of a consider able edifice divided into two or more stories, as in the ruins on the Palatine, and also in opus reticulatum. Between this and the next gateway we begin to meet with some walls, after passing the 19th tower from the Porta del Popolo, which exhibit brick masonry of the period of Honorius. As we advance we shall meet with every variety of construction, from the compact brick work which would have been worthy of the best times of Rome, to the rude re pairs of Belisarius and the patchwork restorations of the middle ages and the popes. 2. Porta Pinciana, a fine arch in travertine, with a kind of cross on the key-stone, flanked by 2 round towers in brick, mentioned by Procopius, and supposed to have been built by Belisa rius, who had his camp on the Pincian during the siege by Vitiges: it was of secondary importance, as no great road entered Rome by it. It is now walled up, but it is interesting as the spot where tradition places the scene of the degradation of Belisarius. If there be any truth in this story, now generally set down as a fable, the great general sat here and begged of the people, " Date obolura Belisario," as they passed the gate through which he had led his troops in triumph. The aque duct of the Acqua Vergine, 12 m. in length, which supplies the fountain of Trevi, enters the city at this point. 3. Porta Salara, at a short distance beyond the site of the Porta Salaria of the Servian wall, so called from the road by which the Sabines exported their supplies of salt. It was memorable as the gate by which Alaric entered Rome. Having suffered from the guns in the siege of September 20, 1870,. it was taken down and is now (1872) in progress of being rebuilt. Embedded in the masonry were found an ob long tomb, probably of the 6th cent. of Rome, and a large marble cippus bearing an inscription, in Greek, to one Sulpicius, of the reign of Do- mitian. The greater part of the walls beyond this is in brickwork the interior portion in the Villa Bonaparte well preserved. It was by a breach in this part of the wall that the Italians stormed Rome on the 20th Sept. 1870. 4. Porta Pia : it derives its name from Pius IV., who rebuilt it 1564, from the designs of Michel Angelo, and left it unfinished at his death ; it has now been completed after the ori ginal design. The Porta Nomentana, which it has replaced, was a short distance farther on. Its site is marked by a round brick tower on one side, and a massive sepulchre on the other, included by Aurelian in his wall. The Via Nomentana passed through it. At a short distance on the rt. from the angle where the streets which enter the city by this gate and Porta Salara join, once stood the Porta Collina of the wall of Servius Tullius. The well-known reconnois- sance of Hannibal, when, according to Livy, he threw a spear over the walls, took place on this side, and, if he had entered Rome, it is probable it would have been by this gate. Beyond the Porta Nomentana of Honorius was si tuated the Praetorian camp of Tiberius, whose quadrangular enclosure projects beyond the walls at the N.E. angle of the city. It is clear that Aurelian in cluded this celebrated retrenchment in his line of walls; 3 of its sides were left standing when it was dismantled, and thus afforded peculiar facilities for the new works. On examining this part of the Aurelian wall, the rude stone work hastily put together by Belisa rius may easily be recognised by the admixture of every kind of material, and especially of fragments of white marble. Several portions on the S.E. side are formed of massive blocks of volcanic tufa, evidently derived from the Agger and other parts of the wall of Servius Tullius, which were situated at a short distance. One of its gates, which formerly opened on the N. side, but were closed by Honorius, may also be recognised. At the southern angle, the Porta Chiusa represents the Porta Sect. I. § 4. GATES. ViminaVH of the Aurelian wall; it con sists of a good; arch of travertine sur mounted by an attic of 6 smaller ones, an entablature and cornice, and in the same style as the other gates erected by Honorius; as its name signifies, it is now walled up. 6. Porta S. Lorenzo, with 2 towers, the ancient Porta Tibur- tina, erected in 402, during the reign of Arcadius and Honorius, by the advice of Stilicho, and formed by one of the arches of the united Marcian, Julian, and Tepulan aqueducts, as stated in the inscriptions over it. This gate opens on the road to Tivoli. The walls be tween this and the Porta Maggiore are built on the line of the 3 before-men tioned aqueducts. About half-way to the Porta Maggiore 14 corbels project from the lower part of the wall, evi dently intended to support a hoard, and supposed to have formed part of the dwelling which Cicero had on the Agger. On approaching the Porta Mag giore the wall has been cut through for the passage of the railway to the central station. 7. Porta Maggiore, a noble arch of travertine, the finest gate in Rome, formed by 2 arches of the Claudian aqueduct. It formerly included the arches over the Porta Labicana and Porta Pramestina, both of which were greatly disfigured and concealed by the constructions of the time of Honorius ; the Porta Labicana was closed, and the Porta Praenestina was known as the Porta Maggiore. The removal of the more recent constructions between these 2 gates has been amply repaid by the discovery of the tomb of the baker Eurysaces, which is described under the Antiquities (p. 69). The appear ance of the fine facade of this gate, which now shows us its 2 arches and 3 piers, is extremely imposing. The circumstance of the aqueducts being carried over it explains the original ob ject of this splendid monument. There are 3 inscriptions on it : one recording that the emperor Tiberius Claudius brought into the city the aqueduct which bore his name; the 2nd relating to the restorations by Vespasian ; and the 3rd to those by Titus. In, the attic are the channels for the water, the lower one being that of the Aqua Claudia, and the upper of the stream called the Anio Novus. We see near this point, from the modern road outside, built into the city wall, the flank of an arch of pepe- rino, in which may be recognised the 3 channels of the Marcian, Tepulan, and Julian aqueducts; the Marcian being the lowest and the Julian the highest. Close by has been found the subter ranean watercourse of the Anio Vetus. The remains of the gate of Honorius, which were removed, have been pre served and placed on a wall outside the Porta Maggiore. The roads which pass out of the city here lead (on the rt.) to Colonna, Valmontone, &c, the high road to Naples by Frosinone and San Germano, and (on the 1.) to Gabii and Praeneste, with an embranchment to Lunghezza and the Alban colony of Collatia. The Aurelian wall beyond this gate follows the line of the Clau dian aqueduct for some distance. Far ther on it passes behind the Horti Va- riani and Basilica of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, and skirts the outer wall of the Amphitheatrum Castrense, which was included by Honorius in his line of fortifications. 9. Porta di San Giovanni, modern, built by Gregory XIII. in the 16th century. Adjoining this gate is the ancient Porta Asinaria, the best pre served of all the gates of the Aurelian wall, flanked by 2 round brick towers, which is supposed to have derived its name from the Asinia family, who opened the road leading from it; it is memorable as the gate through which Belisarius first entered Rome. It was also by it that Totila gained admission, having obtained possession of it by the treachery of the Isau- rians. The ancient gateway is now walled up, and is a very picturesque ruin from the outside. The gate of S. Giovanni is well known to tra vellers ; the high road to Albano and the Pontine Marshes passes out of it. A short way beyond this gate some frag ments of the substructions of the Late ran palace have been included in the wall of Honorius; the Aqua Crabra, the modern Mariana, is crossed further on, and enters the city under a gate, now wallad up, called the (10) Porta Metronia ; the Aurelian wall near here 8 § 4. GATES. EMPORIUM. Rome. is well preserved; through this gate opened the Via Ardeantina. An in scription inside the Porta Metronia states that the wall here was repaired in 1157 by certain Roman senators. Between the Porta Asinaria and the Porta Latina several portions of the lower part of the Aurelian wall are formed of massive square blocks of volcanic tufa, derived evidently from the Servian defences, which are si tuated at a short distance inside of it, although no unaltered portion of this kingly construction is to be seen in the walls of Aurelian, Honorius, or Be lisarius. 1 1. Porta Latina, also closed. It has 2 round brick towers, and a good travertine arch, with grooves for a portcullis, like most of the gates of Honorius. The Christian emblem (a cross or labarum) on the keystone has led to the supposition that it was re paired by Belisarius. According to the Church tradition St. John the Evan gelist suffered martyrdom inside of this gate, by being thrown into a cal dron of boiling oil, where the circular chapel of S. Giovanni in Oleo now stands. The Aurelian wall presents a series of fine square brick towers be tween here and its extreme eastern prolongation, a short way beyond which is (12) Porta di San Sebastiano, the Porta Appia of the Aurelian Wall, with 2 fine semicircular towers of brick work resting on substructions of white marble blocks, probably taken from the Temple of Mars, which stood out side of it on the 1. This gate is well known from its vicinity to the arch of Drusus and the tomb of the Sci- pios; it is a good specimen of the Aurelian construction. Under the arch is a curious Gothic inscription re lating to the repulse of some invading force, which has given rise to much speculation among antiquaries. The site of the ancient Porta Capena, where the Appian Way commencod.is 1500yds. within this gate, between the Via di S. Gregorio and the Baths of Caracalla; the arch of Drusus, the tomb of the Scipios, and the several Columbaria between it and the modern gate, having stood out side the more ancient one of the Tullian circumvallation. Between the Porta Appia and the Porta di S. Paolo are the bastions, about 200 yds. in length, constructed by Paul III. in the 16th centy., from the designs of Sangallo. They are finely built of brick with a deep cornice. 13. Porta di San Paolo, rebuilt by Belisarius on the site of the Porta Ostiensis; one of the most picturesque of all the mo dern entrances to Rome. The inner portion, which consists of 2 arches, is anterior to the time of Belisarius. It is remarkable as the scene of Totila's second entrance into Rome. The pyra mid of Caius Cestius, like ail the an cient tombs, stood outside the walls, for merly on the Via Ostiensis, and is here included in the wall of Honorius, which proceeds towards the Tiber, round the base of Monte Testaccio, ascending the 1. bank of the river for a short dis tance. The distance from the pyramid of Caius Cestius to the Tiber is 800 paces; on it are several towers, some portions of which consist of large blocks of tufa derived from the tombs which bordered the Via Ostiensis. From the point where the Aurelian Wall reaches the bank of the Tiber, near the rly. bridge, and following the river to the modern Marmorata, and the Porta Tri- gemina of the Servian Wall, numerous ruins exist, especially of the Emporium, and of the quays by which it was approached on the river side — one frag ment remarkable for its gigantic blocks of travertine, the others of reticulated masonry, of the time probably of Nero or Domitian, resting upon a substruction of Lapis Gabinus, which may be seen whentheTiberislow. Numerous blocks of marble were found here in 1869-70, in the excavations carried on under the direction of Baron Visconti. One block is remarkable as having been sent to the Emperor Nero from a quarry in Carinthia ; another more colossal still, a column of Marmor Africanus, 27 ft. high by 5i in diameter, nearly 34 tons weight, which have led to the opinion that there was a second Marmorata, or landing-place for marbles; here also several landing-places leading to the Emporium, and mooring-rings in travertine for boats, were found. On one of the faces of this quay is a fciect. 1. IS. BRIDGES. 0 relief of an Amphora, probably marking the landing-place of wines. It is sup posed that these edifices of the Empire, on the river side, were covered towards the close of the 9th cent, by the defences raised to repel the Saracens in their attacks on Rome under Pope John VIII. On the rt. bank of the Tiber the walls present altogether a more modern aspect; the greater part were constructed by In nocent X. and Urban VIII. The best preserved portion of the ancient wall extends from the Septimian arch to the Tiber behind the gardens of the Farnesina Palace, presenting some ruins of square towers. Within their circuit, particularly behind S. Pietro in Montorio, descending to the Trastevere, may be still traced the wall of Aure lian and Honorius, with its ramparts converging to the Porta Aurelia. The following are the gates of the Trans- tiberine district: — 14. Porta Portese, built by Urban VIIL, half-way between the Wall of Servius and the P. Por- tuensis of Aurelian, on the road to Fiumicino, the present port of the Ti ber. 15. Porta diSan Pancrazio, on the Janiculum, the Porta. Aurelia. The grounds of the Villa Pamfili Doria lie to the westward. The Acqua Paola, the ancient Alsietina, enters the Traste vere at this point. It was upon the bas tions to the rt. or S. of this gate that the French besieging army under General Oudinot, in 1849, directed their prin cipal attack. It was here, also, that they succeeded in making a practicable breach, after hundreds of men had perished on both sides, and all the horrors of war had been lavished with out restraint. Every spot in the neigh bourhood is intimately associated with the events of that memorable siege, for here only were its effects felt by the be sieged, and here especially did the Ro mans exert their whole means of defence with a determined courage and bravery which no differences of political opinion can refuse to acknowledge and admire. Wherever we turn, from the walls of Sau Pancrazio to the Fontana Paolina and the Ch. of San Pietro on the one hand, or to the frequent mounds which mark the successive approaches of the besiegers and the graves of the killed on both sides, we find traces of the awful devastation which followed the pro longed resistance of the Romans at this point. The existence of a considerable portion of the Aurelian wall within the circuit of the bastioned line of the popes gave the besieged great advantage in this struggle ; for as that ancient wall is built chiefly of brick, is more than 4 yards in thickness and. from 10 to 12 in height, it formed a real fortress within the outer wall upon which the French had first to direct their fire. It is due to the honour of the French military commanders to add that, in selecting this gate and the advanced point of the Janiculum for their attack, they were guided by the consideration that from no other spot could their operations be carried on with so little injury to the monuments of the Eternal City. 16. Porta Cavalleggieri, near to St. Peter's, on the old high-road to Civita Vecchia, said to be from the designs of Sangallo. It derives its name from a cavalry barrack close by. 17. Porta Fabbrica, near the former, now walled up. 18. Porta Pertusa, also walled up, in the gardens of the Vatican. It was close to this gate that the French army suffered a severe repulse in their first approach to Rome in 1849. 19. Porta Angelica, erected by Pius IV. on the N. side of St. Peter's, leading to Monte Mario. 20. Porta diCastello, on the mea dows behind the Castle of St. Angelo, closed. § 5. Bridges. Of the ancient bridges of Rome five only are now in use. Remains of the others are still visible, and there is no doubt either as to their names or their position. Beginning with the most northern, and proceeding down the river, we have — 1. Ponte S. Angelo, the ancient Pons jElius, so called from one of the names of the Emperor Hadrian, by whom it was built. This noble bridge crosses the Tiber immediately in front of the Castle of S. Angelo. The whole of it is ancient, with the exception of some restorations of stone-work casinglaud the parapets. Medals of Hadrian repre sent the bridge as we now see it, with three large arches of equal sizfe in the centre, and two smaller ones on eoch B 3 10 § 5. BRIDGES. Rome, side; a dedicatory inscription to the same emperor formerly existed on it, stating it to have been erected in his 3rd consulate to afford the means of reach ing his mausoleum. In the middle ages it was covered with booths or shopss by which the passage was so much contracted, that the pressure of the crowd daring the jubilee of 1450 caused the death of 200 people. In conse quence of this accident, the booths were removed and the bridge restored to its original form. In 1530 Clement VII. erected at the extremity the statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. In 1668 Clement IX. added the present parapet, and the 10 angels which stand upon the piers. The one which bears the cross is by Bernini, the others are by his scholars. 2. Pons Triumphalis, Aurelii, or Vati- cmms; it was the longest of all the bridges, and supposed to have been built by Nero. It led from the Campus Martius to the Via Triumphalis, which rose over Monte Mario. From a pas sage in Prudentius it would appear to have been entire in the early part of the 5th centy. Some portions of its piers are still visible, when the river is low, about 300 paces below the bridge of St. Angelo. At a short distance below the Pons Triumphalis a suspension bridge was erected in 1863, forming a com munication with the Lungara and Tras tevere from the Rione Ponte. 3. Ponte Sisto, rebuilt in 1474 by Sixtus IV. on the ruins of the Pons Jani- culensis, connecting the city with the quarter of Trastevere. There is reason to believe it was first erected by Probus, the son-in-law of Sept. Severus, in the reign of Caracalla and Geta. It has 4 arches. 4. Ponte de' Quattro Cupi, connecting the city with the island of the Tiber, so called from the four-headed Januses which stand on the piers. It is the an cient Pons Fabricius, built by Fabricius the Curator Viarum, a.u.c. 708 ; and is mentioned by Horace as the spot from which Damasippus would have leaped into the Tiber, but for the pre cepts of Stertinius : — " Unde ego mira llcscripsi docilis prtecepta h.TC, tmipore quo me Sulatus jussit supientem pascerc barbani Atque a Fabvicio nou ti'istem punte reverti." Hon. Sgi^trX It has 2 large arches, with a smaller one in the centre of the pier between them. It retains more of its ancient architecture than any other of the Ro man bridges except that of St. Angelo. It formerly had the following inscrip tion, but a part only is now legible :— L. FABRICIUS u. F. CVB. VIAB. FACIVN- DVM, COERAVIT. F.IDEMQ. probavit. q. lepidvs m. f. m. lollivs M. F. COS. EX. s. c probavervnt (a.u.C. 733). 5. Ponte S. Bartolommeo connects the island of the Tiber with the Trastevere. It is the ancient Pons Cestius or Gra- tiunus. The name of its founder is un known, but is supposed to have been Lucius Cestius, during his government of Rome in the reign of Augustus, whilst the Emperor was absent in Spain, in A.u.c. 708. Two long inscriptions on the parapets show that it was re stored a.d. 367 by the Emperors Valen- i tinian, Valens, and Gratian. It consists of 1 large central arch and a smaller one on each side. 6. Ponte Rotto, on the site of the Pons JEmilius, called in later times P. Sena- torius and Lnpidrus. The ancient bridge was begun by L. jEmilius Lepidus and Marcus Fulvius Nobilior, a.u.c. 573, and finished by P. C. Scipio Africanus and L. Mummius Achaicus, the censors, in A.u.c. 611. It is represented on medals of the iEmilian family. From it the body of the Emperor Heliogabalus was cast into the Tiber. We know nothing of its subsequent history until we find it mentioned in the middle ages under the name of P. di Santa Maria. In the 13th centy. it fell down, and was rebuilt by Pope Honorius III. It was restored by Julius III. in 1554, and again by Gregory XIII. in 1575. In 1598 all that portion on the 1. bank of the river was carried away. Two arches were thus lost, and no at tempt has since been made to restore them. The part remaining (of the time of Julius III.) consists of 3 arches on the side next the Traste vere, with 2 smaller ones in the piers that separate them, through which the water only runs when the river is much flooded. The ruined and broken state of this fragment sufficiently explains the modern name. A sus pension bridge has been carried from the TOitremrty-tft *fc«-»uined arches to Sect. I. § 6. panoramic view op home. 11 the opposite side of the Tiber, near the Temple of Fortuna Virilis, using what remained of the ruined edifice as its W. pier. The opening of the Cloaca Maxima into the Tiber and the sub structions of the massive quay on its left bank are best seen from this bridge ; the remains of the ancient road on the side of the Trastevere by which it was approached have been recently broken up to render the approach easier. 7. Pons Sublicius, a name derived from the beams of which it was constructed, the oldest and most celebrated of all the Roman bridges. It was first erected by Ancus Martius (a.u.c. 114). It was upon this bridge that Horatius Codes withstood the army of Porsena till the Romans had succeeded in breaking it down behind him. This act of heroism made it so sacred, that it could never afterwards he repaired without the sanction of the pontiffs. It suffered frequently from inundations, and was restored by Tiberius and Antoninus Pius, still built of wood, but upon stone piers. A coin of the latter em peror represents this bridge as a broken arch. In the reign of Adrian I., in 780, it was entirely destroyed by a flood. In the 1 5th century the stones of the piers were removed to make cannon-balls, and the only traces of the bridge now left are their founda tions, which may be seen, when the waters are low, a short distance higher up the river than the hospital of San Michele and quay of the Ripa Grande. Near here, on the rt. bank of the river, some very ancient mooring corbels have been recently discovered. Ponte Molle (see p. 439). 5 6. Panoramic View of Rome. Whoever would enter on the study of the ancient monuments of Rome will find it useful, before he com mences the examination of particular ruins, to make himself acquainted with their relative position, and classify them in such a manner as will enable him to understand their history, and, above all, to make him self familiar, not only with the topo graphy of Rome itself, but of the classical region in the midst of which it is situated. There is no spot so peculiarly adapted for this purpose as the Tower of the Capitol,* from its height and central position; and we advise therefore most strongly the traveller who desires to understand the antiquities, to study them with the least difficulty to himself, and to avoid the vexation arising from a constant recurrence to authorities, to proceed, in the first instance, to the Capitol, with plan of the city and map of the environs of Rome before him. An hour devoted to this will give him a more complete idea of an cient Rome than days spent in the ordinary mode of investigation; and the information obtained in regard to the surrounding country will mate rially assist him in his future excur sions beyond the walls. Independently of these advantages, there is no scene in the world more impressive or mag nificent than that commanded from this elevated spot. It i s not inferior in histo rical interest to the glorious panorama from the Acropolis of Athens, while it surpasses it in those higher associa tions which appeal so powerfully to the feelings of the Christian traveller. In the first place, it will be useful to take a general survey of the country, as seen from the summit of the tower. The Campagna, or the undulating country which extends on all sides around Rome, includes portions of an cient Latium and Etruria. Its length from Cape Linaro, S. of Civita Vecchia, to Terracina is about 90 English m. ; its greatest breadth from the moun tains to* the sea is about 27. On the W.N.W. it is bounded by the range of the mountains of La Tolfa, on the N W. and N. by the volcanic group that surrounds the Lake of Bracciano, of which the peaks of Rocca Romana and Monte Virginio are the highest points ; beyond, and more to the rt., rises the Monte Cimino or Monte di Soriano, and nearer the spectator the hills round Baccano, of which the wooded peak of Monte Musino is the highest point, between which and the * The keys of the tower heing in the hands of the authorities, it was difficult to obtain permis sion to ascend to the top ; this is now (1872) ob tained with greater facility, on application to the Sindaco or municipal authorities at the Capitol.. . 12 § 6. PANORAMIC VIEW OF ROME. Rome. Apennines the Valley of the Tiber oc cupies the low region. The Sabine moun tains surround like an amphitheatre the whole expanse of the north-eastern Campagna ; while the more picturesque mountains which bound the plain of Latium on the S.E. are studded with villages, each representing some site of classical interest. Along the plain from N. to S. the Tiber winds as a long yellow line, marking the ancient boun dary between Latium and Etruria. In the foreground on one side are the ruins of all that made Rome the mis tress of the world; on the other are the palaces and churches of the mo dern city; so that the Capitol may be said to separate the living from the dead — the city of the Popes from that of the Caesars. In the chain of hills towards the S.E. the highest point is the Alban Mount, now called Monte Cavo, on which stood the Temple of Jupiter Latialis, now replaced by a convent of Passion- ist monks. Beneath the summit, and about midway between it and the plain on the rt., is Albano, of which the gate alone can be seen from here ; the site is well marked by the grove of ilexes of the Villa Doria ; a little to the 1. is the town and palace of Castel Gandolfo amid the woods bordering the lake of Albano ; and on the rt. the low hills of Monte Giove, occupying the site of Corioli and of Civita Lavinia, the Lanuvium of Cicero. The long ridge forming the opposite hill beyond the lake is the supposed site of Alba Longa, and may be easily recognised by the line of white buildings upon it — the Convent of Palazzuola. On the 1. of Monte Cavo is a wide plain called the Camp of Hannibal, where the Carthaginian general took up his position during the siege of Rome. The peak at the oppo site side of this plain is Monte Pila, the space between these two points being the remains of an extensive vol canic crater of elevation. A little below the Camp of Hannibal the village of Rocca diPapo, perched upon the crest of a rock, is supposed by some antiquaries to occupy the site of the Arx Albana of Livy, to which the Gauls were are Marino and Grotta-Ferrata. Farther to the 1., on the nearest point of the chain, is Frascati, the largest town seen on the Alban hills. In the distance be yond is the lofty summit of Monte Pila. In a line between it and Frascati is the height on which Tusculum and,its citadel stood. Farther to the 1. are the villages of Monte Porzio, Rocca Prima, and Monte Compatri; and on the last and lowest eminence of the Alban range in this direction is the village of Colonna, occupying the site of the ancient La- bicum. In the opening of the plain between the Alban group and the Sabine moun tains may be recognised the large village of Zagorolo, about midway be tween Colonna and the more distant town of Palestrina, the " frigidum Praeueste " of Horace. Along the range of these hills the principal town to be seen is Tivoli, the ancient Tibur, sur rounded by olive-groves and woods. From that point the Anio flows into the plain towards its junction with the Tiber, in its course separating Latium from the country of th e Sabines. Beyond and to the 1. of Tivoli we recognise the lofty pointed peak of Monte Genaro, the Lucretilis of Horace ; at its foot the 3 pic turesque hills of Monticelli, of Poggio Cesi, and of St. Angelo in Capoccia, the ancient Monies Corniculani ; and farther on the 1., more in the foreground, the wooded range that surrounds Montana, the Alban colony of Nomentum, and the hill and town of Monte Rotondo, marked by its lofty tower. Nearer Rome,the bluff hill of Castel Giuhileo, overlooking the Tiber, is the probable site of the citadel of Fidenae. At the extreme N.E. end of the Campagna is the classical Soracte, whoso isolated mass forms so striking a feature in the Roman landscape. It stands near the northern extremity of the Sabine territory, and close to the Etruscan frontier. Having passed in review the more distant objects of this magnificent pano rama, we shall now proceed to point out the leading features of ancient Rome, without stopping to describe more than is absolutely necessary for the purpose, as a more detailed account of each repulsed in their attack on Rome. On ruin will be given in the subsequent the lower slopes of the Alban group | pages. Sect. I. § 7. THE SEVEN HILLS. 13 § 7. The Seven Hills. The first objects which will excite the interest of the traveller are the Seven Hills. These may be recognised without much difficulty from our pre sent position, which commands also many interesting ruins that must ne cessarily be included in the following general survey. Beginning with the Capitoline, the Mons Saturnius of the earliest period, it will be observed that the tower on which we stand, and the group of palaces of which it forms a part, occupy a depression between the hill upon which rises the ch. of the Ara Coeli on one side and the Monte Caprino with the Palazzo Caffa- relli on the other. These summits were occupied by the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus on the rt. (we suppose the spectator looking to the N. or towards the Corso), and by the Arx Capitolii on the 1. : the space between them, on which we are placed, was called the Intermontium, and in more ancient times the Asylum. The ch. of Ara Coeli is supposed by the best authorities to occupy the site of the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus ; on the other summit were situated the Curia Cala- bra, the Temple of Juno Moneta, the substructions of which may be seen in the Cafi'arelli gardens, and beyond, and nearer the Tiber, the house of Tatius, the Sabine chief and rival of Romulus; nearer to the valley which separates the Capitoline from the Pa latine, in a garden on the modern Monte Caprino, we still see, although diminished in height by the accumula tion of soil at its base, a considerable portion of the Tarpeian Rock. From the Capitol, as a central point, we may trace a semicircle from the Pincian Hill, on the northern side of the modern city, to the Aventine on the S., embrac ing in its circuit the line of the existing walls. This area includes nearly the whole of ancient Rome as it existed before the time of Augustus. The heart of the city was, of course, the Forum, the open irregular space which lies immediately below us ; it will serve as a guiding point in enabling us to fix the limits of the hills. The topo graphy and monuments of this classical spot will be described in a subsequent page, under the article " Forum," and need not, therefore, be repeated here. The Capitoline, on which we stand, forms the first of the 7 hills. Above the western angle of the Forum rises the Palatine, the seat of the earliest settlement of Rome, covered with the ruins of the Palace of the Caesars, in the midst of gardens . Farther to the rt, is the Aventine, its N.W. base washed by the Tiber, and its summit crowned by the churches of Santa Sabina, Sant' Alessio, and II Priorato. In the valley, the Vallis Murcia of the kingly period, between these 2 hills, was the Circus Maximus, the nearest extremity of which will be easily recognised by the tall chimney of the Roman gas-works. Over the Coliseum the eye rests on the Basilica of the Lateran, marking the extreme N.E. boundary of the Catlian. N. of the Caelian, and on the 1. of the Coliseum, is the Esquiline, more extensive than any of the other hills, and marked at its southern ex tremity by the ruins of the Baths of Titus, at its northern angle by the ch. of Santa Maria Maggiore, while the ruined dome of the so-called Temple of Minerva Medica and the walls of the city indicate its extreme boundary on the E. The Quirinal, a long narrow emi nence, begins at the Forum of Trajan, visible from the eastern angle of the tower. We can easily see from this point that a portion of the hill had been removed to make room for Trajan's Forum, as we shall find stated here after on the inscription of his column. The massivcsquare tower of the middle ages, called the Torre delle Milizie (vul garly known as Tower of Nero), and the walls of the Forum of Augustus, assist us in marking the line which separates the base of the Quirinal from that of the Esquiline. The Qui rinal stretches from the Forum of Trajan to the N.E. behind the Colonna Palace. It is covered with buildings, among which the most conspicuous is the Palace of the Pope on the Monte Cavallo, its highest point. The Vi minal, between the Quirinal and the Esquiline, is remarkable for its flat surface, which makes it difficult to dis tinguish as a separate eminence ; a part 14 § 8. KINGLY ANTIQUITIES. Rome. of it is covered by the Baths of Dio cletian. The ch. of S. Lorenzo in Panis- Perna occupies nearly its highest points and the hill may be traced in the gar dens extending from, it to the Piazza di Termini and the Baths of Diocletian. In walking from the Trinita de' Monti to S. Maria Maggiore, the separation between the Quirinal and Viminal is distinctly recognised. These are the 7 hills which were included within the walls of Servius Tullius ; but there are others beyond those limits, which it is necessary to particularise. N. of the Quirinal is Monte Pincio, the Collis Hortulorum, the favourite promenade of the modern Romans. On the other side of the Tiber is the Janiculum, at the foot of which lies the quarter of Trastevere ; at its southern extremity, but without the walls, is the Monte Verde, overlooking the Tiber ; beyond, to the N. of the Janiculum, is the Mons Vaticanus; and in the extreme distance, forming the boundary of our present prospect, is the Monte Mario, capped by the villa Mellini, surrounded by cypress plantations. The area between the Janiculum and the Pincian includes nearly the whole of modern Rome. The last eminence that remains to be noticed is the artificial mound called Monte Testaccio, from the fragments of earthen vessels of which it is formed; it is situated at the southern angle of the Aurelian walls, at the foot of the Aventine, between the river and the pyramid of Caius Cestius, but cannot be distinguished from the point where we are now standing, the higher mass of the Aventine intervening. § 8. General Review of the Ruins. The Ruins of Rome may be classed under 3 heads: 1. The works of the Royal or Kingly period ; 2. Of the Re publican or Consular ; and 3. Of the Empire, not a trace being visible of the civilization that preceded Ro mulus, although the sites mentioned as being occupied by Evander a^id the Trojan colonists can be made out. 1. The Kingly Period (b. c. 753-510). — The consideration of this first period carries us back to the early history of Rome, to enter into minute particulars on which would obviously be out of place in a work of this description, and would involve details with which the traveller may be presumed to be already familiar. It will be sufficient for our present purpose to state that the Latin settlement attributed to Romulus was situated on the Germalus or W. por tion of the Palatine, the site of the earlier settlement of Evander and his Arcadians, and was probably not more than a mile in circumference. The Sabine colony of Tatius occupied the Capitoline and the Quirinal, the Capitoline being their citadel. The Etruscans had their settlements on the CaSlian and parts of the Esquiline, the principal of which was called Lucerum; they were dependent on the others, and had no king, and were at length compelled by the Romans to descend into the space between the Caelian and the Esquiline, which derived from them the name of the Vicus Tuscus. In these times there were small lakes or swamps between the Palatine and Aventine, and between the Palatine and the Capitoline. The union of the three settlements led to the gradual increase of the city, and, in less than 150 years from the foundation by Romulus, the Cloaca Maxima, one of the most ancient architectural monu ments of Rome, was constructed to drain these marshes. The valley at the foot of the Palatine and the Capitoline was then set apart for the general as semblies of the united nations, and became, under the name of the Forum, the seat and centre of Roman greatness. The western slopes of the Palatine were the scenes of those poetical traditions which are identified with the earliest history of the city, and some antiquaries have even fixed the sites where stood the Ruminal fig-tree, the altar of Her cules, the Lupercal, and even the cave of Cacus. The latter is still pointed out in the slopes of the Aventine, on the side overlooking the Tiber : the other poetical antiquities had disap peared, like the lakes of Curtius and Juturna, before the time of the Empire. The few remains of the kingly period which are now extant are entirely in the Etruscan style, built of large quadrilateral blocks, like the walls of Volterra, Cortona, and other cities Sect. I. § 8. REPUBLICAN ANTIQUITIES. 15 of Etruria. These remains are the Mamertine prisons, begun by Ancus Martius (b.c. 640), and enlarged by Servius Tullius (b.c. 578) ; the Cloaca Maxima of Tarquinius Priscus (b. c. 616); part of the celebrated rampart or agger of Servius Tullius (b.c. 578), still visible on the Viminal in the Central Railway Station, and of the walls of the same king, on the sum mit of the Quirinal, before the Pope's stables, and in the vineyard of the Jesuits, on the S. and W. declivities of the Aventine; the remains of the quay on the 1. bank of the Tiber, near the mouth of the Cloaca Maxima ; some substructions near' the Arco Sa lara, possibly of the Porta Trigemina ; very probably the massive substruc tions of quadrilateral blocks of volcanic tufa, under the ruins of the palaces of Tiberius and Caligula ; . in the Vigna Nussiner, now a public promenade, on the western declivity of the Palatine, and which some antiquaries attribute to the earliest constructions of the kings, and even to Romulus, and the Scala Caci leading from the Ara Maxima of Hercules to the Pallantium amongst the most recent discoveries on the Palatine. 2. The Consular or Republican Period (b. c. 510-30). — It has frequently been a matter of regret to the classical tra veller that Rome presents so few monu ments of the time of the Republic. It is certain that there are scarcely any unaltered remains of that period ; and in the Forum, where our earliest impressions would lead us to look for ruins which we might associate with the memory of the heroes and patriots of Rome, it is more than probable that there is scarcely a fragment of re publican times. Various reasons may be assigned for this ; but the expla nation at once the most probable and the most supported by historical evidence is, that the continued wars and transient character of the consular government were unfavourable to the erection of great public monuments. The destruction of the city by the Gauls (b.c. 390), 120 years after the establishment of the republic, no doubt involved the loss of many works, both of the kingly and republican periods. The reconstruction of the city seems to have been too hurried to allow much attention to the arts, and it was not until a comparatively late period that Rome began to he decorated with temples, and supplied with paved roads and aqueducts of masonry. It was not until the fall of Corinth and of Carthage that it was distinguished by the magnificence of its public buildings. The introduction of new divinities required other and more splendid temples, and the luxury and taste acquired in the conquest of Greece naturally led to the construc tion of palaces and theatres on a more spacious and costly plan than had been previously adopted. The boast of Augustus, that he found Rome of brick and left it of marble, may be taken as a collateral proof of the architectural mediocrity of the republican city. Still, during the last century of the republic, several public works of considerable magnitude were executed. The mili tary ways, paved with large blocks of lava, and particularly the magnificent Via Appia constructed by Appius Claudius and still perfect through a portion of its course, served as a model for the paved roads of later times ; but the remains of other republican struc tures which can now be recognised are few. It is probable that the massive substructions under the Pa lazzo Caffarelli, on the Capitoline, are the foundations of some edifice of the republic. The walls of the Tabularium at the base of the Capitol, and over looking the Forum, and the Doric por tico which surmounts it, were con structed by Quintus Lutatius' Catulus as early as b.c. 77. Like the mili tary ways, they show that in all the great works of the republic the solidity which marks those of the kings was generally imitated. Of the republican temples, the only one now standing which has claims to so high an antiquity is that of Fortuna Virilis, now the church of Santa Maria Egiziaca, near the Ponte Rotto. It is known that the original temple on this spot, erected by Servius Tullius, was rebuilt during the republic; but how far the present edifice may have undergone subsequent alterations is uncertain. Beneath the ch. of San 16 § 8. IMPERIAL ANTIQUITIES'. Rotn4. Niccold in Carcere are some early substructions and columns, supposed to have formed part of the temples of Juno Sospita, Hope, and Piety, which dated from the Republican period. The aqueducts which were begun during this period were mostly under ground, with the exception of the Marcian. A long line of this noble aqueduct is still standing, but little appears to belong to the consular period except the foundations, and it is almost impossible to distinguish the original work from the additions and restorations made during the early period of the empire. The theatre of Pompey may still be traced in the cellars of the Palazzo Pio, and in some of the neighbouring streets. The foundations of the Emilian Bridge : some portions of the Pons Fabricius, connecting the island of the Tiber with the 1. bank; and the facing of travertine at the south-eastern point of the island, which formed part of the "ship" of iEsculapius ; are likewise considered to be republican works, as also a massive wall of blocks of traver tine, now covered up beneath extensive brick substructions of the early Caesars, discovered in Jan. 1864, in the Via della Dataria, on the ascent to the Quirinal from the Campus Martius. Close to this fine specimen of republican construction there is part of a sepulchre that stood outside the Porta Sangualis of the Ser vian Wall. From an inscription it appears to have belonged to members of the Sempronia family (see p. 77). But the principal remains of the con sular period ave the sepulchral monu ments. At the foot of the Capitoline, in the Via di Marforio, and near to where stood the Porta Ratumena and the wall of Servius Tullius, is the tomb of C. Poblicius Bibulus, which is universally admitted to be a republican ruin. The principal tombs, however, of this period are on the Appian Way. Be tween the older walls of Servius Tullius and the Porta di S. Sebastiano the P. Appia of the Aurelian is the most interesting, in an historical point of view, of all the sepulchral monuments of ancient Rome — the tomb of the Scipio family, now a subterranean vault, from which the sarcophagus and inscriptions in the Vatican Musamu were obtained. 2 m. beyond the gate is the magnificent circular tomb of Cecilia Metella; 1 m. farther, iii the midst of the plain, are remains of one belonging to some members of the great republican family of the Servilii ; and still farther two attributed to the Horatii and Curiatii, but certainly of a very remote date, from their style of archi tecture. The last monuments of the Republican period to be seen are some of the arches that enclosed the cele brated Forum of Julius Caesar, in a dirty courtyard opening into the Via del Ghetarello, behind the ch. of Santa Martina. 3. The Empire (b.c. 30— a.d. 476).— However much the classical enthu siasm inspired by recollections of the Republic may surpass the feelings ex cited by those of the Empire, there can be no doubt that this was the era when Rome assumed her greatest mag nificence, and nearly all the monuments we now see belong to this period. It was the aim of Augustus to extend the limits of the city, and to embel lish it with works of splendour. The Campus Martius during his reign was gradually covered with public edifices, and, like many cities of modern times, the ancient walls of Servius Tullius soon included but a small portion of the city, and were at length lost among the new buildings. The influence of Greek art, and a taste for colossal architecture, may be clearly traced through all the imperial works: the palaces, the aqueducts, the his torical columns, and the tombs of this period, are all on a scale different from those that preceded them ; and, when compared with the unity and simplicity of earlier times, everything appears ex aggerated. Another peculiarity is the general adoption of the Corinthian order, not indeed in its original purity, but with a variety of ornament which marks a decline of art. Augustus began on the Palatine the first Palace of the Caesars, and filled the Campus Martius with temples, porticos, theatres, and other buildings. Of the works which have remained to the present time, may-^be cited the massive walls which enclosed the Fo rum which bore his name with the Xampla o£ Macs TTltm- in., the centre, Sect. I. § 8. IMPERIAL ANTIQUITIES. 17 the columns of which, still erect, show that it was one of the most splendid edifices in the city; the 3 beautiful columns at the angle of the Palatine, supposed to belong to that of Castor and Pollux or of Minerva Chalcidica ; the theatre o'f Marcellus ; the portico of Octavia ; and the mausoleum of the em peror himself, between theCorso and the Tiber. The pyramid of Caius Cestius, near the Protestant burial-ground, was erected about this time. Agrippa, following the example of his master, contributed largely to the embellish ment of Rome, and constructed a series of baths in the Campus Martius, which served as the model of those immense structures erected by the later emperors. His great work was the Pantheon (b.c. 26), the best-preserved monument of an cient Rome, adjoining his baths. The arch of Drusus was raised to his memory by the senate after his death (b.c. 9), and is the oldest triumphal arch in Rome. The arch of Dolabella, on the Caelian, was erected, as the inscription tells us, in the con sulate of Dolabella and Silanus, in the 10th year of our era, and consequently its antiquity cannot be much later than that of Drusus. Tiberius (a.d. 14) began the Praetorian camp, the outline of which may still be traced at the north-eastern angle of the city ; and built the Temple of Ceres and Pro serpine, whose columns and cella are preserved in the ch. of S. Maria in Cos- medin. Caligula (a.d. 38) enlarged the palace of the Caesars on the Palatine ; and Claudius (a.d. 41) constructed that noble aqueduct that bears his name, which is still the admiration of the world. But all these works were eclipsed by the magnificent building of Nero (a.d. 54). The fire which he is accused of kindling destroyed the palace that existed on the Palatine, and upon its ruins arose his golden house, occupying a space equal to .that of a large town, filling the valley since occupied by the Coliseum, and displacing the house and gardens of Maecenas on the Esquiline.* Nero also * Some very massive substructions have been recently discovered beneath the ch. of S. Cle- rebuilt a large portion of Rome, and con structed baths, now covered by modern palaces, between the Pantheon and the Piazza Navona. He completed the Circus of Caligula, partly occupied by the Basilica of St. Peter's and the Vatican Palace, and memorable as the spot on which many of the early Christians suffered martyrdom. To Vespasian (a.d. 70) we are indebted for the foundation of the Coliseum, or the Flavian amphitheatre, the noblest ruin in existence. It was dedicated by Titus (a.d. 79), 10 years after the taking of Jerusalem, but not finally completed until the reign of his suc cessor, Domitian. On the upper slopes of the Esquiline, Titus converted a portion of Nero's palace into substruc tions for his Baths, so well known by their picturesque remains. Domitian (a.d. 81) enlarged the Palace of the Caesars, and began some baths near those of Titus, which were more ex tensive in their plan than those of his predecessor, and were finished by Tra jan. He also erected the beautiful arch of Titus, to commemorate the con quest of Jerusalem by his predecessor. Nerva (a.d. 96) finished the Forum Transitorium, which also bore his name ; and his great successor Trajan (a.d. 98) erected a temple in it to Minerva, the front of which remained standing until the 17th centy., when ¦ it was destroyed by Paul V. Trajan has also left us in the remains of the Ulpian Basilica and his funeral column two of the most interesting monuments of Rome. The works of Hadrian (a.d. 117) peculiarly mark his taste for the colossal. His Temples of Venus and Rome were erected from his own designs and under his personal direction. His villa near Tivoli was on the most exaggerated scale; and his mausoleum, now the Castle of St. An- mente on the Esquiline ; they consist of walls built of huge blocks of volcanic tufa, with a cornice in travertine, one portion upwards of 350 feet in length. The style resembles that of tbe outer wall of the Forum of Augustus ; they may have belonged to the house of Maecenas ; they are surrounded by more modern brick walls of the best Imperial period, and support the early Christian constructions of the newly dis interred basilica. The large hall Just discovered (June, 1870) probably belongs to the same period. 18 § 8. IMPERIAL ANTIQUITIES. Rome. gelo, is gigantic in its dimensions. The Pons jElius was also constructed by Hadrian as a passage to his tomb. It is the best preserved of all the Roman bridges, and, with the excep tion of the parapets and some un important repairs, is entirely an cient. The temple at the extremity of the Forum which bears the name of Antoninus Pius (a.d. 138) and his wife Faustina was raised to them by the senate. The column of Marcus Aure lius Antoninus (a.d. 161), called the Antonine Column, though inferior to that of Trajan as a work of art, is one of the well-known monuments of Rome. The arch of Septimius Severus in the Forum was erected to him and his sons Caracalla and Geta by the senate (a.d. 205) ; as the other which bears his name, in the Forum Boarium, was in honour of the emperor, his wife, and his sons, by the goldsmiths and dealers of that locality. To this period may be ascribed the arch of Janus in the same locality. The Baths of Cara calla (a.d. 211) surpass in magnitude all previous works of the same kind : their ruins still excite the surprise of every traveller, and are remark able as having supplied the mu seums of our time with the Farnese Hercules, the Toro Farnese, and other celebrated statues. These Thermae were completed by Elagabalus (a.d. 218), and his successor Alex. Severus (a.d. 222). Aurelian erected the Temple of the Sun on the Quirinal, whose mas sive substructions may still be seen in the gardens of the Colonna Palace, and (A.D. 271) accomplished the greatest work of the latter times of the empire, by surrounding Rome with the immense fortification which served as the foundation of the present walls. With the exception of the Baths of Diocletian (a.d. 302), which have peculiar interest from the tradition that they were built by the Christians during the persecutions of his reign, there are few ruins to detain us until the time of Constantine (a.d. 306). The baths of this emperor may still be traced in the Villas Aldobrandini and Rospigliosi, on the Quirinal. His arch, erected to commemorate his victory over Maxentius, is near the Coliseum, and is adorned with bas- reliefs plundered from an arch of Tra jan, the site of which is now unknown. His Basilica constitutes one of the most conspicuous ruins bordering on the Forum : it was built by Maxentius, and dedicated by Constantine after the death of his rival. To the same period belong the temple and circus near the Appian Way, erected by Maxen tius to the memory of his son Romulus (a.d. 31 1). The Pons Gratianus, con structed by the emperors Valentinian and Gratian (a.d. 364), still connects the island of the Tiber with the Tras tevere. The column of Phocas was erected a.d. 608 by the exarch Smarag- dus to the Greek emperor of that name ; but the column is evidently of an earlier date, probably removed from some edifice of the age of the An- tonines. This rapid review of the leading ruins will be useful to the traveller in en abling him to understand the age of the different monuments, as it will also in pointing out the chronolo gical succession to such as wish to study the history of Rome by means of her existing ruins, and to follow the progres s of her architecture through its various stages down to the decline of art under the later emperors. It will scarcely be less instructive to take a rapid survey of the gradual ruin of the city. On the conversion of Constantine to Christianity some of the ancient temples were changed into places for Christian worship, but a still greater number were de stroyed. Independently of the injuries sustained from the invading_ armies of Alaric (a.d. 410), Genseric (455), Ricimer (472), Vitiges (537), and Totila (546), the inhabitants appear to have regarded the ancient buildings^ as so many public quarries. Belisarius employed the remains of ancientedifices in repairing the walls during his cele brated defence of the city, and con verted the mausoleum of Hadrian into a fortress. The aqueducts had been previously destroyed by Vitiges, who burnt everything outside the walls; the baths were thus rendered Sect. I. § 8. IMPERIAL ANTIQUITIES. 19 uselesSj_and the Campagna was re duced to a state of desolation from which it has never recovered. To- tila is supposed to have commenced the destruction of the Palace of the Caesars. In the 7th and 8th centuries Rome suffered a constant succession of calamities; earthquakes, inunda tions of the Tiber, and the famine and pestilence of which they were the na tural precursors, desolated the city more than the attacks of the barbarians or the subsequent sieges of the Lom bards. From the end of the 7th to the close of the 8th century 5 inundations are recorded, in one of which the whole city was under water for several days. The disputed succession to the papacy, the contests of the popes with the German emperors, and the fre quent absence of the court, had also considerable influence in leading to the neglect and ruin of the city. The Normans of Robert Guiscard surpassed all previous invaders in the extent of their ravages : they burnt the city from the Antonine column to the Flaminiau gate, and from the Lateran to the Capitol ; they ruined the Capitol and the Coliseum, and laid waste the whole of the Esquiline. The great monuments were soon afterwards oc cupied as fortresses by the ruling Roman families. The Coliseum, the Septizonium of Severus, and the Arches of Titus and Janus were seized upon by the Frangipanis ; the tomb of Hadrian and the Theatre of Pompey by the Orsinis ; the Mausoleum of Augustus and the Baths of Constantine by the Colonnas ; the Tomb of Caecilia Metella was converted into a fortress by the Savellis and the Caetanis ; the ruins of the Capitol were held by the Corsis ; the Quirinal by the Contis ; and the Pan theon so frequently received the garri sons of the Pope that in the time of Gre gory VII. it bore the name of & Maria in turribus. Even the Basilicas were not secure ; that of St. Paul was fortified by the Corsis, and that of St. Peter by the people. But these were not the only calamities of Rome during the middle ages. In 1345 the city was again inundated by the Tiber, and no thing but the summits of the hills are said to have remained uncovered. In 1349 it was desolated by a fearful earthquake. In 1527 it was cruelly pillaged by the Connetable de Bourbon ; and, as Gibbon truly observes, suffered more from him than from the ravages of Genseric, Vitiges, and Totila. The Constable, according to the account of the Marquis Bonaparte, who was an eye-witness, opened his first trench before the face of the Aurelian wall, on the side of the tomb of Caecilia Me tella. Thus, fatally pointed in the direction of that part of the Appian road, the artillery injured that tomb and the Circus of Romulus, demo lished the sepulchres bordering the AppianWay, mutilatedthe church of St. Nereo and St. Achilleo, the tombs of the Scipios, and the baths of Caracalla. In 1530 the city was visited by another in undation, scarcely less calamitous than the preceding. From a very early period the erection of new churches and. the re pairs of the city walls had continually operated to the destruction of the an cient monuments ; the lime-kilns of the middle ages were supplied from the ruins, and the temples and other build ings were despoiled of their columns for the decorations of religious edifices. The popes are responsible for a large share of this system of wholesale de struction. As early as the 8th centy. we find Gregory III. taking 9 columns from some temple for the basilica of St. Peter. Adrian I. destroyed the Tem ple of Ceres and Proserpine to build S. Maria in Cosmedin. Paul II. built the Palace of St. Mark with materials taken from the Coliseum. By the middle of the 15th century so many monuments had been ruined for build ing purposes or burnt into lime, that, when iEneas Sylvius was elected pope under the name of Pius IL, he issued a bull to prevent the further continuance of the practice : " De Antiquis iEdi- ficiis non diruendis" (1462). Notwith standing this measure, Sixtus IV. in 1 474 destroyed what remained of the stone piers of the Sublician bridge to make cannon-balls, and swept away numerous ruins in his general reform of the city. Alexander VI. de stroyed a pyramid near the Vatican to 20 § 9. FORUMS. Rome. construct a covered way leading from the Palace to the Castle of St. Angelo. Paul III. plundered the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, the Arch of Titus, the Forum of Trajan, and the Theatre of Marcellus, and built the Farnese Palace with blocks of travertine brought from the Coli seum, although he had issued a bull making it a capital offence to " grind down" statues. Sixtus V. removed the works of art of the Septizonium of Severus to ornament St. Peter's. Ur ban VIII. removed in part the base ment of the Tomb of Caecilia Metella to construct the Fountain of Trevi. built the Barberini Palace with mate rials taken from the Coliseum, and stripped the Pantheon of the sheets of bronze which had escaped the plun der of the emperor Constans II. in the 7th century, to construct the baldac- chino over the great altar at St. Peter's — an act immortalised by Pasquin in a saying which has now almost become a proverb:— " Quod non fccerunt Barbari, fecere Barberini." Paul V. removed the entablature and pronaos of the Temple of Pallas Minerva in the Forum Transitorium to build his fountain on the Jani culum, and the last of the marble columns of the Basilica of Constantine to support the statue of the Virgin before the ch. of S. Maria Maggiore. Alexander VII. destroyed an ancient arch of Marcus Aurelius to widen the Corso. Most of the statues of saints and prophets in the churches were worked out of ancient columns, and the marbles which so profusely deco rate the altars may in many instances be recognised as fragments of classical buildings. From these details the reader may be surprised that so many relics of a city which has existed for 2600 years are still visible. When we look back on the condition of the great capitals of our own time, how few there are which have preserved unchanged even their monuments of the middle ages ! If Rome had under gone as many alterations as London has witnessed within the lapse of a few centuries, we should not find one stone standing upon another which we could identify with her historic annals. After this general sketch ! of the monuments and their vicissitudes, we shall proceed to describe them one by one, classifying the ruins under separate heads, and leaving it to the convenience or taste of the traveller to combine the classical antiquities with the ecclesiastical edifices and other objects of interest, or examine each class separately. It cannot, how ever, be too strongly impressed upon his attention that there are few ruins which have not been the subject of antiquarian controversy; and that to enter into these disputes would only serve to bewilder him upon almost every question of Roman topography ; besides, these vexed questions have been impartially reviewed in Mr. Dyer's article Roma of the ' Dictionary of Classical Geography,' mentioned in our Introductory Remarks (p. xxxix.) In many instances the doubt which hangs over the name and object of certain monuments will never be removed, and the discovery of their real destination would add but little to the interest of the ruin. For, in spite of what has been written, the enjoy ment of the spectator must depend on his own enthusiasm ; the ruins are but the outlines of a picture which the imagination and memory must fill up : and they who do not expect too much are less likely to be disappointed than those who look for visible memorials of the heroes, poets, and orators whose fame has consecrated the soil, and in vested even the name of Rome with imperishable interest. " Where is the rock of Triumph, the high place Where Rome embraced her heroes ? where the steep Tarpcian? fittest goal of Treason's race, The promontory whence the Traitor's Leap Cured all ambition. Did the conquerors heap Their spoils here?" § 9. Forums. " Yes ; and in yon field below A thousand years of silenced factions sleep— The Forum, where the immortal accents glow, And still the eloquent air breathes — burns with Cicero ! Sect. I. § 9. FORUM KOMANUM. 21 The fielft of freedom, faction, fame, and blood: Here a proud people's passions were exhaled, From the first hour of empire in the bud To that when further worlds to conquer fail'd." Cliilde Harold. 1. The Roman Forum. — An irregular quadrilateral space at the foot of the Capitoline and the Palatine hills, raised by the accumulation of soil considerably above its ancient level. Its modern name is the Campo Vaccino, the greater part of the area having become as early as the 1 5th century the resort of cattle, a kind of Roman Smithfield. Within this hollow lay the Roman Forum, but what part it really occupied, and what were its true boundaries, has for the last 3 centuries been the sub ject of much learned controversy ; a simple recapitulation of the theo ries of successive antiquaries would fill a volume of no ordinary size. In the development of these theories the Forum has changed its place several times ; the names applied to the ruins by one writer have been superseded by the next, and until within the last few years it was a task of no common difficulty to come to any satisfactory conclusion amidst the multitude of conflicting statements. Indeed, the disputes of the antiquaries had in volved every ruin in uncertainty, and had either bewildered the traveller into total scepticism, or made him believe that the sole interest of each object of antiquity consisted in the contest for its name. Repent discoveries have re moved to a considerable extent the doubts which perplexed the writers of former times ; we shall therefore touch very slightly on controversial ques tions, and proceed at once to the facts, following the best modern authorities, amongst whom Canina is undoubtedly the most to be relied upon. The older antiquaries believed that the Forum, properly so called, extended in length from the Arch of Septimius Severus to that of Fabius, now destroyed, but whichstoodnearly in front of the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina. The space between that temple and the three columns which form so conspicuous a feature of the scene constituted its breadth. In the middle of the 17th century. this opinion was superseded by another theory, which assumed as the breadth of the Forum the line formerly considered to be its longest diameter, and sought for its length in the direc tion of the churches of San Teodoro and S. Maria della Consolazione, thus laying down an imaginary rectangle of about 700 feet by 470. This theory was supported by many recent writers, — Nibby, Burgess, Burton, and other antiquaries, — in whose time the dis coveries which have so completely changed the old landmarks of the Forum had not been made. Niebuhr rejected this latter hypothesis, and adopted the old theory as the one most supported by historical facts. The Chevalier Bunsen has since la boured to support the views of the Prussian historian. But of all those who have endeavoured to clear up the topography of the Forum, Canina de serves the first place, from his elabo rate Fxposizione del Foro Romano, and the details given in his more recent general work entitled ' Roma Antica.' Although it is impossible to define exactly the limits of the Forum and its dimensions, it may be said to have extended from the Arch of Septimius Severus to the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina in its longest diameter, and from the front of the ch. of San Adriano to the steps of the Basi lica Julia in the other. In order to faci litate to our readers the description of this celebrated area, we have annexed a reductidn of the plan given by Canina in the works above mentioned. Beginning with the ruins on the slope of the Capitoline, the massive wall which forms the substructions of the modern Capitol is one of the most interesting existing fragments of Roman masonry of the Consular period: 240 ft. in length and 37 ft. in height, it is composed of rectan gular blocks of that particular variety of volcanic tufa from Gabii, called Lapis Gabinus by the ancients. Upon it, as upon a basement, are the re mains of 16 Doric pilasters, upon which stood a series of arches supporting the architrave of the Tabularium, or Record Office, Within is an ancient corridor 22 § 9. FORUM ROMANUM. Romel 100 yard* 1, Sliopa of the Notaries. 2. Site of Colonna Duillia. S. Site of Colonna Mrenia. 4. Ancient entrance front the Capitol to the Forum. 5. Pyramid of the UmbilicuBRomce 6. Siteof MilliariumAureum. 7. Site of the Arch of Tiberius. 8. Pedestals for Votive Statues, or Columrikt. 9. Entrance to the Forum Trausito* num. 10. Site of Basilica Emilia. 11. Site of the Forum of Julius Cxsar, Sect. I. § 9. FOBUM KOMANUM. 23 mixed with modern constructions, in which Nicholas V., about the middle of the 15th century, formed a magazine of salt, which corroded the piers and led to their destruction. The following very interesting inscription on the walls, proving that they formed part of the Tabularium, where the "tabu la;," or bronze plates recording the de crees of the senate and other public acts, were preserved, and that they were erected, together with the substruc tions, by Q. Lutatius Catulus (b.c. 78), has been recently re-discovered, and has been placed over the entrance on the side of the Mamertine prison : — Q. LVTATIVS . Q. F. Q. N. CATVLVS . COS. SVBSTRVCTIONEM . ET . TABVLA- KTVM . EX . SEN. SENT. FACIENDVH . COERAVIT . EIDEMQVE . PROB ; they are therefore interesting as repub lican works, and still more so as remains of the ancient Capitol. In 1839 an important discovery was made in connexion with this interesting monu ment. In the progress of the works for the enlargement of the prisons then beneath the Palace of the Senator, were discovered, concealed among masses of modern walls, the series of Doric arches of the Tabularium. They are 23 feet high, and about 1 1 wide. In his restora tion of the Tabularium Canina supposes this Doric portico to have been sur mounted by another of the Ionic order, scarcely a fragment of which remains. More recent excavations in the in terior of the Tabularium led to the discovery of a flight of steps leading from it to the Forum, the entrance from the latter being long closed by the Temple of Vespasian built against it. These stairs, of 67 steps, are of the Re publican period. They form two flights between walls of the most massive construction, supported upon hori zontal arches or lintels, of which we see so few examples in Rome. During the excavations which led to their discovery, several inscriptions were found, amongst which a small altar rudely inscribed c. fannivs . m.f . cos. de seNAt sent dedit, who was the author of the celebrated Sump tuary Law (16 i B.C.). These stairs fb'rmeil a passage from ihe Forum into the Tabularium, and it is pro bable " that it was by them that the Vitellian rioters gained access to the Capitol (a.d. 69), a circumstance that led probably to their being closed by building against the entrance the temple dedicated to Vespasian. The Doric portico of the Tabu larium has been cleared out for the purpose of forming an Architectural Museum of all the fragments dis covered in the Forum, a kind of sup plement to the Museum of the Capitol. This collection contains the beautiful fragments found round the Temples of Concord, of Vespasian, and of Minerva Chalcidica, amongst the best existing specimens of Roman architectural de coration. The Custode of the Tabu larium — his name written over the door close by — will open the gate leading to the ruins. The three temples which stand at the base of the Capitol are amongst the most conspicuous ornaments bordering on the Forum. The 3 beautiful Co rinthian columns of white marble, long supposed to have belonged to the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, raised by Augustus, have been shown by Canina to form a part of that erected to Ves pasian by Domitian. On the 1. (look ing towards the Forum) of these co lumns is a wide raised space, paved with coloured marbles, the site of the Temple of Concord, where the senate usually assembled. On the other side of the Temple of Vespasian is a raised tri angular space, surrounded by the re mains of a portico recently restored. This was the Schola Xantha, close to which the Roman notaries had their offices. Under the portico were the sta tues of the 12 Dii Consentes (see p. 48). The Ionic portico of 8 granite columns, in the foreground on the rt., was once supposed to belong to the Temple of Fortune, and by the antiquaries of the German school to that of Vespasian, a question that has been set at rest by the discovery of the Milliarium Au reum, which is known from contempo rary writers to have stood at the foot of the Temple of Saturn, restored by Au gustus. The position of the Milliarium Aureum was1 near the angle of the por- 24 § 9. FORUM KOMANUM. Rome. tico of the Temple of Saturn, at the extremity of a semicircular wall faced with coloured marbles, and extending to the Arch of Septimius Severus, near which it terminated in a co nical pyramid. This semicircular construction represents the ancient Rostra, the conical pillar, the Umbili cus Romm, from which all distances within the walls were measured, as those beyond the gates of Rome were inscribed on the M. Aureum. The Arch of Septimius Severus stands in front of the Temple of Concord; behind it stood the Duillian column, and before it the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, now on the Inter- montium of the Capitol. The ancient road seen under the arch is of a date long posterior to that of the latter, being considerably raised above the level of the way that it was originally destined to span. Before the discovery of the ancient Clivus Capitolinus in front of the Temple of Saturn, it was supposed to have led from the Forum to the Capitol. The Clivus Capito linus, which we now see passing from before the Basilica Julia, and ascend ing tortuously between the Temple of Saturn and the Schola Xantha, offers in this space one of the best pre served specimens of a Roman cause way . To the 1. of the Septimian Arch is the Mamertine prison, over which stands the modern ch. of S. Pietro in Carcere. Proceeding now along the 1. or N. side of the Forum, the line of the modern road is supposed to mark the position of the novce tabernm, the porticoes and shops of the traders. The ch. of S. Luca, or Santa Martina, the seat of the Roman Academy of Painters, is supposed to be built on an ancient edifice, the Secreta- riumSenatus, or Basilica Portia. Behind it stood the Forum of Julius Csesar, some portions of the outer wall of which maybe seen behind the houses of the Via del Ghetarello. The adjoining ch. of S. Adriano is supposed to stand upon the site of the Basilica JEmilia, erected by Paulus jEmilius in the reign of Augustus. The brick front is the principal fragment of the ancient build ing now standing. The mass of mo dern houses between this ch. an4 the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina is considered by recent writers to occupy the place of the entrance to the Forum Transitorium, called the Atrium of Minerva, and farther on of the Portico of the Municipii. The Temple of Antoni nus and Faustina, now the ch. of S. Lo renzo in Miranda, may be considered to mark the limit of the Forum in this direction, but to have been outside of it. In front of it stood the Arch of Fabius, the conqueror of the Allobroges. On the opposite side of the Forum, proceeding from the Ionic portico of the Temple of Saturn, and at its eastern extremity, once stood the Arch of Tiberius, corresponding nearly to where the modern road ascending to the Capitol crosses the Clivus Capitolinus. On the rt. is the wide open space occupied by the Basilica Julia, recently uncovered, 3 of the pilasters which supported its arches being still erect. The discovery in 1834 of a flight of steps on the ancient road left little doubt as to the position of this once magnificent edifice, but it was reserved to the government of Pius IX., under the direction of Canina, to lay bare al ready more than one-half of its area and its floor covered with precious marbles. The solitary Column, called by Lord Byron $ i " the nameless column with a buried base," was excavated to its base in 1813, at the expense of the Duchess of Devon shire ; it is no longer nameless, an in scription upon its pedestal stating that it was raised to the Emperor Phocas, whose gilt statue stood on the top, by the exarch Smaragdus, in a.d. 608. At the base of this column, and bordering on the ancient road which separates them, from the Basilica Julia, are 3 pedestals, which probably supported votive statues or pillars. Very extensive excavations are now in progress, at the expense of the Government, and under the direction of the Cav. Rosa, in the Forum Ro- manum, and on the site of the Basilica Julia. They are considered by many injudicious, being more ideal restora tions thap discoveries, The 3 columns Metres. Sect. I. § 9. FORUM ROMANUM— AECH OF TITUS. 25 at the S»E. extremity of the basilica are now considered by most anti quaries as having formed a portion of the Temple of Castor and Pollux, have also been laid open with interesting results. All these excavations are in progress of being continued, so as to lay bare the whole of the Forum as far as the Arch of Titus. The Temple and Rostra of Julius Caesar stood in the centre of the Fo rum, near the Arch of Fabius, and op posite the 3 beautiful Corinthian co lumns, which architects have long regarded as models of the Corinthian order, and which have been the subject of more controversy than any other ruin in the Forum. In former times they were supposed to have belonged to the Temple of Jupiter Stator, after wards to the Comitium, and more re cently they have had the name of the Grfficostasis, or hall in which the am bassadors of friendly powers were received by the senate, and of the Temple of Castor and Pollux, given to them. Recent excavations show that they formed part of an edifice of great extent, and Bunsen considers that they are the remains of the Temple of Mi nerva Chalcidica, built by Augustus in connexion with the Curia Julia, the magnificent structure erected by that emperor for the senate, to replace the older Curia. The mass of brickwork behind the church of S. Maria Libera- trice, formerly ascribed to the Curia Hostilia, is considered by the same learned antiquary to be part of this new Curia of Augustus. Farther back the church of San Teodoro, once sup posed to mark the site of the Temple of Romulus, is now generally considered to be the Temple of Vesta, mentioned by Horace in connexion with the inun dations of the Tiber. The residence of the Vestals, occupying the site be tween the churches of San Teodoro and Santa Maria Liberatrice. In line from the portico of the Temple of Saturn to the ch. of Santa Maria Liberatrice, were the veteres tabernm, or shops which Tarquinius Priscus allowed to be erected in the Forum, and where Virginius bought the knife which saved the honour of his daughter. \_Rome.~] We have thus arrived opposite to the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, and therefore have reached the eastern boun dary of the Forum. It will be useful now to examine the remainder of the Campo Vaccino, lying between this and the Arch of Titus. Leaving the temple of Antoninus, we enter on a branch of the Sacra Via. On the 1. hand the first building which requires notice is the small circular temple now the vestibule to the church of SS. Cosma and Da- miano ; it was formerly called the Temple of Remus, and by Bunsen the JEdes Penatium. Near this are 2 half-buried columns of cipollino, which seem to have escaped the nomenclature of the Roman antiquaries. The next building is the immense ruin formerly called the Temple of Peace, but now known to be the Basilica begun by Maxentius, and completed by his suc cessor, whence it took the name of the Basilica of Constantine. The Sacra Via was supposed by some writers to have passed immediately in front of this edifice, while it is now universally admitted to have extended in a straight line from the Arch of Fa bius to that of Titus. The Temple of Peace stood near it. Among the facts connected with the destruction of that celebrated temple, not the least in teresting is that recorded by the phy sician Galen, who states that he had a shop upon the Via Sacra, which was burnt down in the conflagration of the temple, and that he lost many of his writings in the flames. The classical scholar will hardly require to be re minded that the Sacra Via was a favourite promenade of Horace, as recorded in one of his most playful satires (lib. i., ix.) : — " Ibam forte Via Sacra, sicut mens est mos, Nescio quid meditans migarum, et totus in nils." Opposite to the Basilica of Constan tine is the Arch of Titus, interesting not only as the most beautiful of the Ro man arches, but as having been erected in commemoration of the conquest of Jerusalem. It stood on the Summa Sacra Via, the highest point of the Via Sacra. Behind the ch. of S. Fran- cesca Romana are the ruins of the 0 26 § 9. FORUMS. Rome. Temple of Venus and Rome. The Sacra Via passed from the Arch of Titus to the Meta Sudans, in front of the Coliseum, whose gigantic mass rises immediately before us, in the valley separating the Esquiline and Ccelian hills. Close to the Meta Sudans is the Arch of Constantine. All the objects mentioned in this general survey of the Forum, of which there are any remains now visible, are described under their several classes, to which the reader is referred for more particular details. Forum of Trajan. — The remains of the magnificent buildings which were once the ornament of this Forum, and the unrivalled column which still stands in the midst of its ruins, are the best evidences of the splendour which com manded the admiration of the ancient world. The Forum was begun by the great emperor whose name it bears after his return from the wars on the Danube, and completed a.d. 114. The architect was the celebrated Apollodorus. The ground round the pedestal of the column was excavated in the 16th centy. by Paul III. ; and the French authorities in 1812 caused two convents and several houses to be pull ed down to lay open the present area. Daring this operation the basements of the columns were discovered, so that the different fragments have been replaced as nearly as possible in their original positions. The design, so far as can be gathered from the existing ruins and from coins, included the Basilica called Ulpia, from Trajan's family name, a column, a triumphal arch, and a temple. The fragments now visible are a portion of the colonnades of the Ulpian Basilica, and are supposed to form about a third of the original building. The rest is buried under the streets and houses which close upon the area on either side. Every excavation made for years past in the vicinity has dis closed some fresh proof of the extent of the Forum ; the columns, similar to those now visible in the area, but of larger dimensions, found as far distant as the Piazza SS. Apostoli, as well as those recently discovered be neath the Pal. Valentini, of fine Pavon- azetto marble, and of the fluted Corin thian order, with portions of a handsome frieze and entablature, are supposed to have belonged to the temple erected to Trajan by Hadrian. The funeral pillar rises in the oblong area which led from the Ulpian Basilica to the Temple of Trajan : on each side of it stood the celebrated Greek and Latin Libraries. The Basilica was surrounded by a double range of columns of grey granite ; their original height is esti mated to have been 55 feet. Around the area are numerous fragments of marble capitals, entablatures, a portion of the marble pavement, and several votive inscriptions; and in a court behind the Via della Salita del Grillo, entered from the house No. 6 in that street, a considerable portion of one of the semicircular wings of the Forum. All these remains indicate a high state of art, and elaborate execution even in the minutest details. Restored plans of the Forum and its buildings will be found in Canina's ' Roma An tica.' The Funeral Column is de scribed under its proper head at p. 57. Forum of Nerva, or Transitorium — the latter denomination from its also serving as a public thoroughfare (pcr- vium) — parallel to and on the E. side of the Forums of Julius' Caesar and Au gustus, begun and dedicated by Domi tian, and finished by Nerva. The re mains of this Forum and its temples are described under Temples. — (SeeTemple and Portico of Pallas Minerva, p. 41.) Forum of Augustus, adjacent to those of Trajan and Julius Ca?sar, was erected (a.u.c. 752) by that emperor to enclose the Temple of Mars Ultor, a part of which, as well as one of the en trances, the modern Arco de' Pantaui, still exists open. (See Temple of Mars Ultor, p. 40.) The outer wall, extend ing as far as the Piazza del Grillo, is a fine specimen of Roman masonry, con structed of blocks of peperino, placed alternately in their long and shorter diameters, and divided into nearly equal heights by projecting cornices of travertine : remains of 4 entrances in the form of arches, now walled up, which afforded ingress and egress to and from the Forum, may be traced along its base in the adjoining street. Sect. I. § 10. PALACE OF THE OESARS. 27 Forum of Jidius C&sar, founded by him in a.u.c. 708, after the battle of Pharsalia, and out of its spoils : the ground on which it stood having cost the enormous sum of 10,000,000 ses terces (about 900,000Z. sterling). It was the second erected in Rome, and opened into the Forum Romanum behind the modern ch. of Santa Mar tina. In its centre stood the Temple of Venus Genitrix, containing statues of that goddess and of Cleopatra, and in front the bronze figure of Caesar's favourite horse. Some very fine spe cimens of masonry in Lapis Gabinus and travertine belonging to the outer wall of this Forum, on the side of the Capitoline hill, may be seen in the court of the house No. 18 in the dirty lane called the Via del Ghetarello. This Forum became memorable from its connexion with the first offence given to the citizens by Csesar, who, sitting in front of the temple, received the senators, when they had come to him, in great state. Beneath the arches of the F. of Csesar are several subterranean chambers, which may have been con nected with the Mamertine prison.* Of the other Forums; the F. Boarium was situated near the ch. of S. Giorgio in Velabro and the Arch of Janus Quad- rifrons; the J1. Olitorium,neav the Piazza Montanara, at the S. foot of the Capi toline hill, and will be mentioned in the account of the Temple of Juno Sos- pita; the Portico of the Argonauts is marked by the ruins of the Temple of Neptune in the Piazza di Pietra, and tne Forum of Antoninus by the spiral column in the Piazza Colonna. It may not be out of place to inform the reader that most of the Forums erected during the Imperial period were destined to enclose some remark able edifice or temple, and were used as places of public resort ; in those of Csesar, Augustus, and Nerva, courts of justice were held in subsequent times, whilst the Forum Romanum continued to be the great political centre of the Ro man world until the fall of the Empire. * Cav. Rosa, in his' more recent plan of the Forum, places the Forum of Julius Cajsar farther S.E. In. the above description we have adopted the position assigned to it by Canina. § 10. Palaces. Palace of the Coisars. — The first pa lace of the emperors on the Palatine was erected by Augustus, on the site of the houses of Cicero, Hortensius, Catiline, and Clodius. He attached to it a temple, dedicated to Apollo, in commemoration of the battle of Actium, and a library, which after wards became celebrated as the Pala tine Library. Tiberius increased this palace towards that extremity of the hill which overlooks the Vela- brum. Caligula enlarged it towards the Forum, and connected it with the Capitol by a temporary bridge. He also converted the Temple of Castor and Pollux in the Forum into a vestibule for the new portions he had added Nero extended the buildings in tha direction of the Coliseum, and along the valley between the Cselian and Palatine hills. After the great fire, the golden house which Nero erected on the ruins of his former palaca extended to the Esquiline, displacing the house of Msecenas, filling up the valley of the Coliseum, and covering with its grounds a great portion of the Cselian. Vespasian was the first who seems to have reduced this overgrown edifice within more reasonable limits ; Titus employed the substructions on the Esquiline as the foundations of his Baths, and is supposed to have made such alterations as confined the pa lace to its original position on the Palatine ; and Septimius Severus added his Septizonium in a.d. 198 at the S.W. angle. The imperial residence was repeatedly rebuilt and altered by succeeding emperors ; and the greater part of it is supposed to have fallen into decay in the time of Theodoric. In the 7th century the southern portion was sufficiently perfect to be inhabited by Heraclius ; and there is reason to believe that the plan at least of the palace was entire in the 8th century. Of all these extensive buildings nothing now remains but a mass of ruins, so shapeless and undefined that any at tempt to discover the plans of the several parts would be perfeptly hppe' less, C 2 28 § 10. PALACE OF THE OESARS. Rome. " Cypress and ivy, weed and wallflower grown Matted and mass'd together, hillocks heap'd On what were chambers, arch crush'd, co lumns strown In fragments, choked-up vaults, and frescoes steep'd Jn subterranean damps, where the owl peep'd, Deeming it midnight: — Temples, baths, or halls? Pronounce who can; for all that Learning reap'd From her research hath been, that these are walls. — Behold the Imperial Mount I 'tis thus the mighty falls." Childe Harold. The Palatine, as we now see it, is about l^m. in circuit ; the soil is com posed of crumbled fragments of ma sonry, and in many parts it covers the original surface to a depth of more than 20 feet. The hill is portioned out in gardens and vineyards ; the grounds of the Orti Farnesiani occupy the whole of the summit or table-land on the north-western side. Adjoining them on the S.E., and occupying the remain ing portion at the top of the hill, is the Villa Spada or Palatina, which belongs to a community of nuns of the Visitation. , 'A road com mencing at the Arch of Titus leads on the rt. to the convent of S. Bonaventura, and separates the above- named villas from the gardens of that convent, and from the P'igna di S. Sebastiano on the S.E. declivity. On the S. are the Orti Roncioni or Castelli ; and beyond the Figna del Collegia In- glese ; and on the SW. the Vigna Nus- siner, at the base of the Orti Farnesiani, and adjoining the Forum Boarium. In each of these localities we shall find some ruins to engage our attention. Orti Farnesiani — Palace of theCe- saks.* — These gardens, entered from the Campo Vaccino, contain the most interesting ruins of the Palace of the Caesars, especially since the recent excavations, carried on under the able direction of Cav. Pietro Rosa, a de scendant of Salvator Rosa, the painter of the 17th centy., and at the expense of Napoleon III. (They are open to the public on Thursdays, visitors being only required to write their names on entering.) The Orti Farnesiani, formerly the property of the Neapoli- * Tbe plan on the opposite page has been reduced from that prepared by Cav. Rosa. tan House of Bourbon," were purchased in 1861 by the Emperor Napoleon III. for a sum of 10,000Z. sterling, for the purpose of excavating on a large scale, and laying open what remains of the dwellings of the Csssars. The Em peror of the French expended 750,000 fr. (30,000?.) on the excavations alone.* In 1870 they were transferred by him to the Roman Government for 650,000 fr., on condition that they continue the excavations, and retain Cav. Rosa as their director. The ruins now exposed to view are situated on that part of the Palatine called the Germalis, and in the valley that separated it from the Velia, and consist of the Palace erected by the Flavian emperors over more ancient edifices of the time of Augustus, and of the Library and Academy attached to it ; of the temples of Jupiter Stator and Jupiter Victor, of the house of Tiberius Claudius Nero, the father of Tiberius, and subsequently of Livia, the wife of Augustus, of the substruc tion of the Palaces of the Emperor Tiberius himself,' of the Palace of Caligula, of the ' Auguratorium and Scalae Caci, leading' to the Velabrum, and of the Clivus Victorias and Porta Victoria, by which the Imperial Palace communicated with the Forum. We shall notice each of these buildings and antiquities separately, commencing from the E., premising that the tourist will find on the principal sites tablets containing the most important facts connected with their history in cita tions from the ancient authors in whose writings they are referred to. Cav. Rosa has published an excellent plan of the ruins, with good photographic views, whicWmay be had on the locality or at Spithover's Library. Ascending from the principal en trance (1 in Plan) out of the Campo Vaccino, we find in front extensive corri dors which formed the (3) substructions of the Palace of Caligula, extending to his Thermae, situated in front and beneath the (2) modern Casino of the Director. Following the path along * Since the misfortunes of Napoleon III., these grounds have passed into the hands of the Italian Government, Cav. Rosa continuing to direct the excavations. Sect. I. § 10. PALACK OF THE CjESARS. 29 1. Principal Entrance from the Campo Vaccino. 2. Modern Casino of Director. 3. Substructions of Palace of Cali gula. 3'. Site of the House of Cicero. 4. Clivus Victorias, and (32) Porta lii >n i , I.™ i , leading to the Forum. 5. Museum. 6. Bite of Porta Palatii. 7. Temple of Jupiter Stator. 8. Portico of Palace, or iEdea Publica, 9. Tablinum of Palace. 10. Basilica Jovis. 11. Lararium. PeristvBum. 13. Triclinium. li-tNymphceum or Fountain. 15. Corinthian Portico of Palace. 16. Bibliotheca. 17. Academia. 18. Temple of Jupiter Victor. 19. Site of Tugur Faustuli. 20. iEdicula Jovis Propugnatorie. 21. House of Claudius Nero. 22. Eoad leading to (23) Scalai Caci, and Forum Boarium. 23. Scalre Caci. 24. Ancient Well. 23. Substructions of Palace of Ti berius. Ancient Boad to Forum Boarium . Crj'pto-porticus of Palace of Tiberius. Piscina of ditto. Supra Scalre Caci. Walls of Romulus. Substructions of Palaces of Ti berius and Caligula. Site of House of Cicero. Palace of Caligula. Site of Houses of Nnma and Aucus Martius. Site of the Pontifei Maximus and Julius Caesar's dwelling on the Palatine, 30 § 10. PALACE OF THE C&SARS. Rome, the wall which bounds the villa on the l.,is a large fragment of the Clivus Pala tums, which ascended from the Sacra Via near the Arch of Titus to (6) the Porta Vetus Palatii, near the site of the Porta Mugionis, of the Walls of Romu lus ; fragments of the P. Palatii are still in situ, on the rt. of which stood the (7) Temple of Jupiter Stator, and the houses of Numa, Ancus Martius, and the Tarquins. On the foundation- blocks have been discovered certain names, such as Pilorates and Diodes, supposed to date from the 3rd cent, of Eome. Beyond this commenced the Palace of Vespasian, the Sedes Imperii Romani, and iEdes Imperatorum of ancient writers ; this stately edifice, erected by the Flavian Emperors when they removed their residence from the more densely inhabited quarter on the Esquiline, commenced by Vespasian, continued by Titus, Domitian, &c, was the official palace of the rulers of the Roman world in the 2nd and 3rd centuries ; it was in part built over the valley which sepa rated the two portions of the Palatine, the Velia, and Germalis, and extended across the depression to the edge of the precipice overlooking the Circus Maximus. The substructions of the Temple of Jupiter Stator, resting on the ancient quarries or Latomiae of the Palatine, beyond which is (8) the Atrium Palatii, which extends round the N. and W. side of the Palace. The Imperial Palace itself is faced by 2 projecting porticoes, formerly faced by a row of Corinthian pillars of Cippo- lino marble, of which 2 have been replaced, followed by (9) the Tablinum, a large quadrangular space, out of which on the rt. opened a (1 0) Basilica, supposed to have been the B. Jovis mentioned in the Acts of the Martyrs SS. Silvester and Lawrence. This basilica is re markable for the great width of its nave ; the walls and apse or tribune are well preserved. The tribune was enclosed by a marble network railing, portions of which, as well as four of the columns which separated the nave and aisles, still remain. Here justice was rendered in the Imperial Palace, as it was in that of our kings at Westminster. On the opposite side of the Tablinum, I and in a corresponding position on the I, is (1 1) a large hall called the Lararium, E. of this, hut within the garden of the adjoining convent, was the Garden of Adonis and Temple of Apollo. Beyond the TablinunV is the (12) Peristilium, out of which a modern flight of steps leads to the so-called Baths of Livia, antece dent constructions, probably of the age of Augustus, which Vespasian used as foundations for his palace, as Titus did for his Thermae on the Esquiline. Far ther on is the (13) Triclinium, probably the apartment designated as Sicilia and Jovis Cenatio by Julius Capitolinus, where the Emperor Pertinax was when the Praetorians attacked the palace gate, and from which he fled to be murdered by them. Out of the Triclinium opens on rt. (14) the Nymphamm, with remains of a large fountain. There was a similar one on the opposite side, now within the grounds of the convent. Beyond the Triclinium is (15) a Corin thian hexastyle portico, which formed the extremity of the Flavian Palace on the S.W., and under which may be seen immense substructions in quadrangular blocks of tufa of the Republican or early Imperial period. The Palace of Vespa sian was surrounded on the W. side by a (8) portico, portions of which may be seen under the smaller modern Casino, and along the W. side of the Basilica Jovis. This portico opened on the W. side of the Area Palatina. Beyond here, and leading towards the Palace of Tiberius and Caligula, is a long sub terranean passage, paved, lined, and covered with mosaics, probably the Ostia publico, or passage of the Emperors into the Public Palace, from which opens an extensive (27) crypto-porticus formerly painted. Between the Corin thian portico on the SW. of the Palace and the edge of the hill are the founda tions of two edifices called the (16) Bibliotheca and the (17) Academia. If we now continue to the W., close to the Nymphseum have been discovered foundations in massive blocks of tufa of the Republican period, which be long to the substructions of the (18) Temple of Jupiter Victor, founded during the Samnite war by Fabius Maximus, extending by a succes sion of steps, partly restored, to the PLAN OF THE HOUSE OF CLAUDIUS NERO THE FATHER OF TIBERIUS [i2o»Kj.] Tofa^epaije 31. Sect. I. § 10. PALACE OP THE CiESARS. 51 brow ^f the precipice overlooking the Circus Maximus; and beyond it, on the W., a small edifice, called by Cav. Rosa an (20) iEdicula of Jupiter Propugnator, with a portico and a small Impluvhvm. The temple of Jupi ter Victor, which overlooked the Cir cus Maximus and the Aventine, was preceded by a flight of steps and two broad terraces reaching to the brow of the hill. The circular altar placed here was found close by ; it bears an interesting inscription : — Cnaws Domitius, M. F. Calvinus, Pontifex, C. C. iter Imperator Maniebus. This C. Calvinus, who commanded the Roman centre under Julius Caesar at Pharsalia, and was twice Consul, in B.C. 53 and 40, quelled the rising in Spain under Augustus ; the last word Maniebus (for ManietHms) referring probably to exactions he was allowed to make on the occasion, and which he employed towards the decoration of the Imperial Palace, when probably this altar was raised ; the fluted cavity in the centre contained a bronze vessel. Close to the N.W. extremity of the Temple of Jupiter Victor is a large mass of buildings (21), amongst the most im portant late discoveries on the Palatine ; they belonged probably to Tiberius Claudius Nero (see separate Plan), the father of the Emperor Tiberius, and subsequently to his wife, who, divorced from him, married Augustus, and, assuming the name of Livia, in habited here after the death of the great Emperor. They consist of 2 por tions; the state or decorated apart ments, consist of the Vestibulum or Pro- thyrum, leading from the paved way, a large square Atrium, out of which opens on one side the Triclinium, painted with Arabesques and animals — remark a group of Mandarine ducks, and of the Tablinum forming three parallel oblong halls, richly decorated and painted, with elegant groups of Arabesques and wreaths of flowers. In the central one are some of the finest paintings handed down to us from classical times, amongst which (a) a large group of Galatea and Polyphemus (4), (6) another of Mercury, Io, and Argus ; (c) a view of a street in Rome eighteen hundred years ago, with a female going out and others looking down from a window ; a lady at her toilette, &c. The larger paintings appear to have been executed by Greek artists, the names affixed to them being in Greek characters. In the two other rooms of the Tablinum are some fine groups of fruit and flowers. The whole of these state apartments were covered with a vaulting. The walls on which the stucco for the painting is in the best style of opus reticulation. Behind this more decorated portion of the house, and reached by a narrow passage or fauces, is what may be called the domes tic portion of the edifice, consisting of a Peristylum, out of which open bedrooms or cubicula, kitchen, and small bath, with its furnace ; some of the rooms here, parallel to a neighbouring street, were evidently shops, as we see in the grand dwellings at Pompeii. A subterranean passage leads from this living portion to the (17) library and Academy, behind the iEdes Publicae (18); here have been discovered large leaden pipes for con ducting water to it, bearing impressed on them the names of Livia, and of persons in the household of Domitian. These pipes are now exhibited in the central apartment of the Tablinum at d. In front of this painted house of Claudius Nero is a huge mass of rubble work, supposed to be theAuguratorium; it commands a fine view over the valley of the Velabrum and the Capitoline hill. In the intermediate space is (24) an an cient well, evidently one of the many of which traces are found in the Palatine anterior to the period when water was conveyed to it from the aqueducts. From here an ancient road (22) leads to the Velabrum ; it is terminated by (23) several steps, which descend abruptly into the valley ; from the massive walls which border it, it was evidently fortified. There is little doubt that here were the Scalse Caci, leading to the Ara Maxima of Hercules in the valley below, which is mentioned in the 8th Book of the JSneid, as that by which the aged King Evander led JEneas to his dwelling on the Pallanteum : " lbat rex obsitus sevo ; Et comltem iEneam juxt& naturaque tenebat Ingrediens, varioque viam sermone levabat," JEn. viii. 306. If so, the space on the right, adjoining § 10. PALACE Off O'HE CiElSAES. Rome. the Auguratorium, was the supra Scalse Caci, and on which stood, possibly, the modest dwelling of Evander, and the Tugur, or hut, of Faustulus, the first dwelling of Romulus. Returning by the same road as far as the house of the father of Tiberius, we find a paved way leading from the Palace of Vespasian to the Vela brum, bordered by a range (25) of low arched substructions, which are sup posed to belong to the Palace of the Emperor Tiberius, at the extremity of which is a (28) large oval reservoir or Piscina, and from which a decorated Crypto-porticus (27), or subterranean passage, leads to the Palace of Caligula. From the Tiberian substructions a path leads along the brow of the Palatine upon the massive substructions of the Palace of Caligula to the N.E. extremity of the hill, where we reach the stupendous ruins of the Porta Romana (31, 32, 33), which communicated with the Forum Romanum by the Clivus Victoria! (4), the Porta Romana having been, as Festus tell us, "instituta a Romulo infimo Clivo Victoria!." It was from about here also that the famous bridge from the Pala tine to the Capitoline hill was carried by Caligula. In the chambers adjoining are some good specimens of fresco and stucco decorations : portions of the pavement of the Clivus are preserved. Between the P. Romana and the modern Casino are other extensive sub structions of the Palace of Caligula, con sisting of fine halls, which probably formed the ground-floor of the palace, and extended from thedeclivity towards the house of Cicero on the N.E., to that overlooking the Circus Maximus on the S.W. From here a wide flight of steps leads to the upper apartments, now on a level with the modern garden, and from the Clivus Victoriae to the upper floors of the Palace of Caligula and Tiberius : a few of the marble stairs remain in situ. It must have been somewhere to the W. of the modern Casino (2) inhabited by the Director that the house of Clo dius stood : if so, that of Cicero was in the level space below, bordering on the Sacra Via; their relative sites being well pointed out in the exclamation of the great orator addressing Clodius : "Tol- lam altius tectum, non ut ego te despiciam, sed ne tu desipcias urbem earn quam delere voluisti." In the same level ground stood the dwelling of the Pontifex Maximus, inhabited by Julius Csesar. The Via Nova and Temple of Jupiter Stator, founded by Romulus, as already stated, corresponded to the eastern side of the Orti Farnesiani, near and inside of the Porta Palatii, as described by Ovid :— "Inde petens dextram 'Porta est' ait 'ista' Palati, Hie Stator, hoc primum condita Roma loco est." Fast. III. No very remarkable .'objects of art have been discovered during the re cent excavations : the best being a muti lated statue of a Genius, of good work manship, and a graceful draped female figure ; good busts of Drusus Caesar, Nero, Agrippina the younger, of Julia, daughter of Titus, of Flavia Domitilla, wife of Vespasian, and of Domitian. The originals of some of these objects having been sent to Paris, casts have been placed in a Museum near the resi dence of the Director, in which have been also arranged all the most inte resting objects discovered during the excavations — glass, coins, signa tegu- laria, and a series of polished speci mens of the ancient marbles used in the Pal. of the Caesars. The discovery of the Clivus Palatinus, ascending from the Summa Sacra Via, near the Arch of Titus, shows that a valley existed here dividing the Pala tine in two parts — the Summa Velia, on which stands the ch. of San Buona- ventura; and the Germalis or Palatine properly so called, extending from this valley to the Velabrum, and the heights overlooking the Circus Maxi mus. Cav. Rosa, as already stated, has adopted a very useful plan for assisting the visitor in the examination of the ruins, by placing large placards on each remarkable site, on which is inscribed the name given to it by classical writers, with citations from their works where notice of them will be found. Within the precincts of the Palace of Vespasian are the subterranean chambers, called without any autho rity the Baths of Livia, and which are now reached by a flight of steps from the Sect. I. § 10. PALACE OP THE CiESAES. 33 Peristylium ( 12). They were evidently dwellings of a more ancient edifice, very possibly of the time of Augustus, Which, like on other parts of the Pala tine, and beneath the Thermae of Titus, have served in later times as sub structions to the Imperial edifices, of which we now see the ruins nearer the surface. The walls still preserve some graceful arabesque paintings, and gilt stucco reliefs. Adjoining are huge substructions in rubble-work and rect angular blocks of tufa, which support the Corinthian portico of cippolino columns which overlooks the Circus Maximus. The small modern Casino near here has a covered balcony, the paintings on the vault of which, re presenting Hercules carrying off the cattle of Diomedes, are supposed to have been executed by pupils of Raphael. There is no point from which there is a finer view over the Capitoline hill, the Capitol itself, the Forum, and the lesser Fora opening into it, than from the N.E. extremity of the Orti Farnesiani, overlooking the Clius Victoria; and the ch. of Sta. Maria Li beratrice ; or still better from the small round tower called la Ton etta del Pala- tino, near the Casino of the Director. 2. Vigna Nussiner, the western angle of the hill above the church of Sta. Anastasia, in the garden which for merly bore this name, the entrance to which is by a gate from the Via di S. Giorgio in Velabro, but which is now a public walk, having been purchased by the Emperor of Russia for the purpose of excavating, but which was subsequently presented to the city: antiquaries regard the greater part of the ruins here as having formed part of the palace added by Tiberius. On the S.S.W_. is a semicircular ruin, called by Canina the Meniano Palatino, overlooking the Circus Maximus, the extreme point in this direction of the buildings raised by Augustus, and which formed the entrance to his house, that stood immediately behind it. At the N.W. extremity of the Palatine, and extending from there for nearly 200 yards behind the ch. of San Teodoro, are the ruins of the ad ditions made by Caligula on the mas sive substructions formed of square blocks of pumice tufa, supposed by some antiquaries to date from the kingly period, whilst a few go so far as to attribute them to the original fortifications of the Palatine raised by Romulus. Portions of this wall have been discovered in other parts of the S. declivity of the Palatine, and ex tend probably along its whole extent under the subsequent Imperial con structions. At the angle towards the Forum Boarium were the Scalae Caci and the stairs leading to the KaX» A*r» of Plutarch, or quay along the river, traces of which have been lately laid bare : near this stood the Ara Maxima of Hercules.* At the eastern extremity of Caligula's additions to the Palace of the Cassars were the edifices raised by Tiberius, and the Imperial Pulvinaria. Considerable excavations made here have laid bare portions ofthewallof the kingly period, of massive square blocks of tufa, and some columns which are supposed to have supported a balcony from which the emperors viewed the games in the Circus Maximus. t 3. The Villa Palatina acquired con siderable interest from the disco veries of the French Abbe Rancoureil in 1777, who concluded that it occupied the site of the house of Augustus. The villa is entered from the road S. of the Arch of Titus, leading to the * During the excavations made in 1860 a very interesting altar in travertine was discovered near this, and may be stitl seen on the spot ; it is in the early Consular style, with scroll orna ments like those on the urn of Scipio Barbatus, and of the Republican tombs, on the Via Appia ; the inscription is remarkable not only for its spelling but its object : — sei deo sei divae sac. — C SEXT1VS C. F CALVINVSTR — DE SENATI SEN- tentia kestitvit. It is supposed to have been dedicated to the mysterious genius loci, or aius loqucns, mentioned by Cicero, in his De Divini- tate. as having announced the attack of the Gauls, but which being nameless, its sex could not be designated. The tribune C. S. Calvinus mentioned in the inscription was son of a per sonage of the same name, who was consul with C. Cassius Longinus in A.u.c. 629, or 124 years before Christ. T Behind this ruin, at the base of the Pala tine, some chambers have been opened, the walls of which are covered with names and figures of men and animals, roughly scratched upon them'. Some are in Greek, and all appear to be not later than the third century. c 3 34 § 10. PALACE OP THE C^JSARS. Rome. convent of S. Bonaventura. * The subterranean chambers excavated by Rancouriel and Barberi are several feet below the present surface: they were probably parts of the palace of Augustus. In several of these cham bers the stucco is preserved; and from what remains they all appear to have been richly decorated. Two of the rooms are octagonal, with domes ad mitting light by the top. The forms and architecture of these chambers have been justly admired by pro fessional travellers. The Casino of the Villa had a portico painted by Giulio Romano, from designs of Ra phael, and restored by Camuccini ; but the frescoes, owing to the aversion of its present inmates to look upon naked figures, have been removed. The Villa Palatina occupies the site of the House of Hortensius, and in later times of the Palace of Augustus, the Garden of Adonis, with the Temple of Apollo, and the Palatine Library. This portion of the Palatine, with the adjoin ing convent and garden of San Bona ventura, formed the Velia, separated from the Germalis, or Palatine pro perly speaking, by the valley filled up by Vespasian to erect the Palace of the Flavian Emperors upon it. 4. Orti Roncioni or Castelli, forming a part of the Vigna del Collegio In- glese: entered from the lane beyond the Convent of S. Bonaventura ; the Villa Palatina overlooks these gar dens on the N.W. They are en closed by 2 parallel walls of great extent, which appear by the curved extremity to justify the name of "Hip podrome" or "Stadium" given to the locality by antiquaries. In the upper gardens is a semicircular ruin, pos sibly of a theatre. On the eastern side opens a large circular chamber, with a roof of inlaid panels, and at the S.E. extremity several passages and chambers in the same style, in which excavations extend to a lower level. The excavations made in the Stadium, and amongst the ruins forming its eastern side, have led to no antiqua- * This villa is now closed against visitors, having been converted into a convent of the order of St. Francois de Sales, or of Visitandlne Nuns. rian or topographical discovery of any importance. Some panelled chambers have been cleared out, and several mutilated fragments of sculpture, but no inscription of interest. The most important have been arranged in a long corridor on the S. side of the ruins, which will be opened on applica tion to the custode. It appears that here, as in the Orti Farnesiani, the more early Imperial edifices served as sub structions for those of the later Cassars. 5. Vigna del Collegio Inglese, entered also from the side of the Circus Maxi mus, through a house on the Via de' Cerchi ; wide stairs conduct to the ruins, which are more pictu resque than any now existing on' the Palatine. Numerous arches, cor ridors, and vaults, still retaining their ancient stucco mouldings, are inter spersed with masses of buildings, among which are found fragments of mosaic pavements and of ancient paintings. This is the part erected by Nero, and said to have been in habited by Heraclius in the 7th cen tury. Any attempt to describe these ruins or assign them to particular pe riods would be mere loss of time. The designations given to them are names and nothing more ; and their general accuracy may be estimated by the fact that the ciceroni show a circular room as the bath in which Seneca was bled to death, although he is known to have died near the 4th m. on the Via Appia. These magnificent ruins, clothed in ivy and other creeping plants, diversified by laurels and ilex, will supply the artist with varied combinations for his pencil. At the S.E. angle of the hill, towards the Piazza di S. Gregorio, stood the Septizonium of Severus, built in a.d. 198 by that emperor, in order, it is said, to attract the eyes of his African countrymen on their arriving in the capital. It derived its name from its 7 tiers of arcades rising above each other, and formed the last important addition to the Palace of the Caesars. During the middle ages it was converted into a fortress by the Roman barons ; a portion of it was still standing in the 16th century, when it was destroyed Sect. I. § 10. BASILICA OP CONSTANTINE. by Sixtus V. to furnish materials for the building of St. Peter's. The excavations in this part of the Palatine, and which are now conve- viently reached by a path through the vineyards of the Convento Inglese, have been much excavated, first by Baron Visconti for the Pope, and during the past year by Cav. Rosa, offer several objects of interest. The latest disco veries consist of the Stadium, and of portions of the house of Nero and Do mitian. 6 . Vigna diS. Sebastiano, chiefly remark able as containing some of the arches of the Claudian Aqueduct, erected by Nero to carry water to the Imperial edifices, and to his thermae, which covered a considerable portion of the declivity of the Palatine on this side. 7. Vigna di S. Bonaventura, &c, form ing one side of the Via San Gre- gorio, on the S. side of the hill, are the vineyards of S. Bonaventura and S. Sebastiano, in both of which are considerable masses of brickwork, which belonged to edifices, chiefly baths, erected in the time of Nero. In the latter are some remains of the conduits which supplied the palace with water from the Claudian aqueduct, and within the precincts of the convent are ruins which appear to have belonged to the reservoirs of a bath. On the opposite side of the Via Sacra from the Orti Farnesiani and Palace of the Caesars are the ruins of the Basilica of Constantine, formerly supposed to be the Temple of Peace, erected by Vespasian to receive the spoils brought by his son Titus from Jerusalem. It has, however, been proved that this temple was en tirely consumed by fire in the reign of Commodus ; and antiquaries were long at fault in discovering the probable purpose of the existing ruins. Nibby was the first who sug gested that they were the remains of the Basilica of Constantine. The style, indeed, indicates the decline of art, and the execution shows that it is properly referred to the time of that emperor. It is believed that the build ing was erected by Maxentius from the ruins of the Temple of Peace, and de dicated, after his death, by his success ful rival. Small chambers have been found under the ruins, which may have belonged to the Temple raised by Ves pasian, and some of the bricks in the pavement bear the name of Domi tian ; both facts supporting the conjec ture that it was built outof the materials of a pre-existing edifice. A small por tion only of the original building is now standing, but there is sufficient to permit of its plan being made out with some approach to accuracy. It ap pears that it was 320 feet long and 235 wide ; and that it consisted of a nave and 2 aisles, supported by 3 large arches, each of about 80 ft. span. Those which formed one of the naves still remain ; but the rest have disappeared. Recent excavations have shown that one of the entrances faced the Coliseum, where traces of an outer arcade have been discovered, although the principal approach opened towards the Sacra Via. The vaulted roof of the central or great hall was supported by S marble columns of the Corinthian order, G2 feet in height, 1 of which was standing in the time of Paul V., who removed it to the Piazza of Sta. Maria Maggiore, where it now supports a bronze statue of the Virgin. In the fragment which remains the vaultings are decorated with large sunk octagonal panels with traces of stucco ornaments. The middle arch is deeper than the others, forming a kind of tribune ; the lateral ones have 2 rows of smaller arches, destroying the effect by insigni ficant details. The principal tribune was placed at the extremity of the central nave. A flight of winding brick stairs leading to the roof is nearly entire. The pavementwas of cipollino, giallo antico, and other coloured marbles. The whole arrangement of the building seems to have suggested the forms of the early churches ; and there is no doubt that at least a portion of the edifice was converted into a place of Christian worship soon after the peace of the Church in the time of Constantine. § 11. -Temples. Temple of JEsculapius, on the island of the Tiber, sacred to the god of medicine. This celebrated temple was founded B.C. 293, on the return 36 § 11. TEMPLE OP ANTONINUS AND FAUSTINA. Rome. of the ambassadors who had been sent to Epidaurus in obedience to the in structions of the Sibylline oracles, for the purpose of bringing iEscu- lapius to Rome, then suffering from the plague. Tbe story of their voy age is well known to the readers of Livy ; it will be sufficient here to state that, on their return with the statue of the god, it was found that a serpent had concealed itself in the ship, and that iEsculapius himself was supposed to have assumed that form in order to deliver the city. On their arrival in the Tiber the serpent, deserting the vessel, hid himself among the reeds of the island. A temple was thereupon erected to him, and the whole island was faced with travertine, its form being re duced to that of a ship. Some remains of this curious work are still visible. The masses of stone which formed the forepart of the vessel are well pre served at the southern end, and may be seen from the suspension bridge. There were 3 temples on the island, dedicated to Jupiter, iEsculapius, and Faunus. The ch. of San Bartolommeo is sup posed to stand on the site of the first. By descending from the gardens of the convent upon the massive ruins which form the S.E. point of the island, we may still see the staff and serpentof iEsculapius sculptured on the huge blocks of travertine forming the ship's bow. The marbles in the convent garden, and the 24 granite columns in the interior of the ch., most probably be longed to the temple of Jupiter, or to that of ^Esculapius. In the centre of the island was an Egyptian obelisk placed so as to represent the ship's mast ; from the remains of a basement discovered by Bellori in 1676, it is supposed to have been of great size, and the frag ment of the obelisk found here in the last century was probably but a small portion of it. This fragment was long preserved in the Villa Albani, but was removed to Urbino, where it has been erected. The Temple of iEsculapius stood in the centre of the island on the site of the modern hospital of San Giovanni Calabita, where an inscrip tion has been discovered connected with a well filled with stipai or ex- voto offerings by those who had obtained cures at the shrine of the divinity; the third temple, dedicated to Faunus, was at the N.W. extremity of the island, but all trace of it has disappeared under the houses which now cover where it once stood. Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, at the N.E. extremity of the Roman Forum, now the ch. of S. Lorenzo in Miranda. This interesting ruin is shown by the inscription on its facade to be the temple dedicated by the senate to the Emperor Antoninus Pius and to his wife Faustina the elder. It consists of a pronaos of Corinthian columns, 6 in front, and 2 on the flanks. Each column is composed of a single block of cipollino, about 46 ft. in height, with bases and capitals of white marble. The cella, of which the 2 sides remain, is built of large blocks of peperino, which were formerly faced with mar ble. The ascent to the temple was ascertained, by excavations made in 1810, to be by a flight of 21 marble steps. The cella and portico have preserved a considerable portion of their magnificent entablatures. The frieze and cornice are exquisitely sculptured with griffons, vases, and candelabras ; over the portico is the inscription, " divo antonino et nviE Faustina, ex. s. c." The columns are beautifully proportioned, and the whole building is in the finest style of art; in front was an atrium with a portico extending towards the Forum, the foundations of which are now entirely concealed. In the centre of this atrium stood the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, now in front of the Capitol. This temple, supposed to have been erected about the year 165 of our era, is represented on coins of Faustina, and on an ancient bas-relief on the front towards the garden of the Villa Medici. Temple of Bacchus, or of the Cameiur, now the church of S. Urbano, and partly converted into a farm-house, — most doubtful designations given to a ruin near the pretended Grotto of Egeria. It is a rectangular building, with a portico of 4 marble columns of the Corinthian order, of the time of the Antonines. The intercolumniations were walled up when the building was SeCt. I. § 11. TEMPLE OP CERES AND PROSERPINE OF CONCORD. S'1? adapted for Christian worship ; half the columns are consequently con cealed. Over these is an attic, sur mounted by a tympanum, the decora tions being in moulded terracotta and brickwork. The interior retains a por tion of its ancient stucco frieze, repre senting various warlike trophies, but greatly damaged; in thevault were sunk octagonal panels ; in the centre Of the roof are the remains of a bas-relief, re presenting two persons sacrificing with uncovered heads. The building was converted into a church by UrbanVIII., when the circular altar now seen close to the entrance of the ch., with a Greek inscription, was found in the sub terranean oratory. This inscription refers to Bacchus, and has given the building its present name. The paint ings on the walls, representing events in the life of Christ, S. Cecilia, &c, are probably of the 11th or 12th centy. Temple of Ceres and Proserpine, now forming part of the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin,better known as the Bocca della Verita, and near the Temple of Vesta. The temple was rebuilt by Ti berius. Three columns of the peristyle, in white marble, and finely fluted, are partly walled up in the modern portico, and 3 others in the sacristy and passage leading to it. By ascending to the gallery above, the capitals may be ex amined; they are of the composite order. The great width of the inter- columniations is amongst the peculiari ties of this fragment. In the l.-hand nave of the ch. are 3 other columns, which formed a part of the pronaos or front which was turned towards the Arch of Janus, or at right angles with the modern facade; and behind the ch. are some remains of the cella, con structed of large blocks of travertine, which Adrian Lis known to have pulled down for the purpose of enlarging the old basilica. Under the modern portico is the huge marble mask which has given the name of "Bocca della Verita" to this ch. and the adjoining piazza. It represents a large round face, with au open mouth, and probably served as an impluvium or entrance of a drain in the centre of a court to let the water run off. The vulgar notion, and from which it has derived its name, is that a sus pected person was required, on making an affirmation, to place his hand in the mouth of this mask, in the belief that it would close upon him if he swore falsely. The church, built on the ruins of this temple, by St. Dionysius, in the 3rd centy., is interesting as an example of the early basilicas. (Seep. 173.) Temple of Claudius. Of the edifice raised by Agrippina, nothing now re mains, but the substructions covering a considerable extent on the Ccelian Hill, and are best seen from the Via della Navicella, where they form the greater part of the Gardens of the Passionist Convent of SS. Giovanni e Paolo ; the site was afterwards occu pied by the Vivarium and Spoliarium, attached to the Coliseum (see p. 89). Temple of Concord, first erected by Camillus, after the expulsion of the Gauls, to perpetuate the concord be tween the Plebeians and Patricians on the disputed question of the election ot the Consuls ; entirely rebuilt by Tibe rius A.u.c. 768 ; and repaired by Septi mius Severus. It is situated at the base of the Capitol, behind the Arch of Sep timius Severus. This name was for merly given to the portico of 8 columns of the Temple of Saturn, and the true site of the Temple of Concord was unknown before the year 1807, when the French, in excavating round the 3 columns of the Temple of Vespasian, discovered a cella and 2 inscriptions, in which the name " Concordia" left no doubt of the real character of this ruin. Subsequent excavations have exposed a great part of the basement, and particularly a portion of the flank, which is tolera bly well preserved. The existing re mains show that the portico was nar rower than the cella, in order to adapt it to the form of the ground, and that the cella was wider than long, a very unusual circumstance in ancient tem ples, and probably owing to the edifice being more especially destined for public assemblies than for purposes of worship. The pavement was of co loured marbles. On the threshold of the cella is the impression of a cadu- caeus, a supposed allusion to the divi nity to whom the temple was dedi cated. From the state of the fragments 38 §11. TEMPLE OP THE DIVUS REDICULUS. Rome, of ornaments and sculpture discovered among the ruins, it is believed that the building was destroyed by fire. On the side next the arch of Severus is a mass of brickwork, the remains of some building of the middle ages, often confounded with the temple. The inscriptions alluded to above, and the style of architecture, show that the present fragment is an imperial ruin ; there is little doubt, however, that it occupies the site of the republican Temple of Concord, so celebrated in the history of the Catiline conspiracy as the place where Cicero (b.c. 63) con voked the Senate before the arrest of the envoys of the Allobroges, at the Milvian bridge. In the middle ages a church, dedicated to S. Sergius, stood between it and the Arch of Septimius Severus, and was very probably constructed with marbles taken from its ruins. There are some elegant specimens of the bases of the columns, which stood inside the edifice, and fragments of the frieze, in the Museum of the Capitol, and in that of the Tabularium. Temple of the Divus Rediculus: a name given to an elegant tomb situated in the valley of the Almo or Caffarella, near the Nymphseum, or pretended Grotto of Egeria, from the belief that it was the temple founded in commemo ration of Hannibal's retreat from before Rome. There is, however, no autho rity for the name given to it, as Pliny mentions the site of the CEdicula of Rediculus as being 2 m. from the city, on the rt.-hand side of the Via Appia. The period of this construc tion is uncertain, but the variety and beauty of the zigzag ornaments show that it is not a republican, but an imperial structure, probably of the time of the Antonines. " So fresh are its red and yellow bricks, that the thing seems to have been ruined in its youth; so close their adhesion, that each of the puny pilasters appears one piece; and the cornice is sculptured like the finest marble. Whether it be a temple or a tomb, the rich chiselling lavished on so poor a design convinces me that it was fully as late as Septimius Severus." — Forsyth. It is nearly square, and is built of yellow brick, with a basement and pilasters of red. On the southern side, where a road (the Via Ardeatina) seems to have passed, it has small octagonal half-columns sunk in the wall. The modillions of the cornice and other ornaments are well preserved, and are beautifully executed. On the northern side is the pediment, on which stood probably a portico of peperino columns, fragments of which may be seen scattered about. On the side of this portico was the principal entrance to the interior by a square doorway, over which is a decorated niche for a statue, with an opening to give light to the interior, round which runs a bench for urns. Be fore the destruction of the vaulting the inside was divided into 2 floors ; the up permost^ large square vaulted chamber, was decorated with stucco ornaments. Temple of Fortnna Virilis, near the Ponte Rotto, now the ch. of SantaMaria Egiziaca, belonging to the Armenian Catholics. It was originally erected by Ancus Martius or Servius Tullius ; after having been destroyed by fire, it was rebuilt in the time of the republic, and has undergone many restorations. It is an oblong building, constructed of travertine and tufa, standing on a basement of travertine, which has been laid open to the level of the ancient road. The front had a por tico of 4 columns, the intercolum- niations of which have been walled up ; the only flank now visible has 7 columns, 5 of which are sunk in the walls of the cella. These columns are Ionic, and support an entablature and frieze, ornamented with heads of oxen, festoons supported by cande- labras, and figures of children. The columns and entablature were covered with a hard marble-like stucco, some portions of which remain. The base ment is much admired, and the details of its Ionic decorations are generally regarded as the purest specimen of that order in Rome. Temples of Juno Sospita, Hope, and Piety. The Ch. of S. Niccolb in Car cere, in a small recess out of the Piazza Montanara, covers the site of 3 tem ples, which may still be identified by some of their columns in their original positions and of the massive substruc tions on which they stand. The ch. oc- Sect. I. § 11. TEMPLE OF JUNO SOSPITA. 39 cupies the site of the middle temple, and portions of the two others are seen in the side walls. Of the one on the 1. hand, attributed to Juno Sospita, founded by C. Cethaegus (b.c. 195), 6 Doric columns in travertine remain, 2 in the ch. and 4 in a passage leading out of the sacristy, belonging to the edifice as rebuilt by Germanicus. The central and best preserved Temple, that of Piety, has the pediment in massive blocks of travertine, with its cornice, and the bases of 6 of the Ionic columns, which formed part of the portico that surrounded the cella. The style of some of these ruins has been considered to refer them to the period of the republic ; and if we admit the names under which they have long passed, they would mark the site of the Forum Olitorium, or great vege table-market of Rome, which was situ ated outside the Porta Carmentalis of the Servian wall. Attempts have been made to identify the central ruin with that Temple of Piety, which was erected on the site of the Decemviral prisons, to commemorate the affect ing story of the " Caritas Romana." It appears, however, from the state ment of Pliny, that the sites of the prison and temple were both occupied in his time by the Theatre of Mar- cellus; it would therefore be useless to enter into any of the contro versies on the subject. Those writers who have identified the site with the Forum Olitorium have recognised in the central Ionic ruin the Temple of Pietas, erected by Acilius Glabrio, the duumvir, in a.u.c 572, in fulfilment of his father's vow at the Pass of Thermopylae, where he defeated Antio- ehus in A.u.c. 562. There are a series of cells at the base of the pediment on which rest the columns of the ch. above, shown to strangers by torch light, in one of which is supposed to have taken place the affecting scene to which we have alluded, although the temple is stated by some ancient writers to have been erected over the dwelling of the Roman matron. Whatever may be the amount of the traveller's belief in the locality, he will not forget that it was this spot that inspired those beautiful lines in the fourth canto of ' Childe Harold' in which the poet pictures the scene which has given an imperishable celebrity to the devotion of the Roman daughter : — " There is a dungeon, in whose dim drear light "What do I gaze on f Nothing : Look again ! Two forms are slowly shadow'd on my sight- Two insulated phantoms of the brain : It is not so ; I see them full and plain — An old man, and a female young and fair, Fresh as a nursing mother, in whose vein The blood is nectar : — but what doth she there, With her unmantled neck, and bosom white and bare? '£ But here youth offers to old age the food, The milk of his own gift : — it is her sire, To whom she renders back the debt of blood Born with her birth. No : he shall not expire 7 While in those warm and lovely veins the fire Of health and holy feeling can provide Great Nature's Nile, whose deep stream rises higher Than Egypt's river : — from that gentle side Drink, drink and live, old man ! Heaven's realm holds no such tide. The starry fable of the milky-way Has not thy story's purity ; it is A constellation of a sweeter ray, And sacred Nature triumphs more in this Reverse of her decree, than in the abyss Where sparkle distant worlds:— Oh, holiest nurse ! No drop of that clear Btream its way shall miss To thy sire's heart, replenishing its source With life, as our freed souls rejoin the universe." The excavations made during the recent restoration of the ch., and which can be conveniently visited from the sacristy, have laid bare portions of the substructions of these Temples, the first a massive wall of fine blocks of travertine, with a pro jecting cornice, upon which rest the bases of the columns of the rt. side of the edifice ; the second, a double pediment on equally gigantic blocks of Alban peperino, in the early re publican style of construction, which support the 6 Doric pillars of the Temple of Juno, well seen in a pas sage opening out of the sacristy, and in the adjoining Via della Catena ; round the first of these substructions exist a range of six low chambers, each corresponding to the space of an intercolumniation above, and which by some have been considered as the cells of the Decemviral prisons, in one of which took place the scene of the Caritas Romana. In two of these chambers are remains of stone benches ; 4b § H. TEMPLES OF JUPITER AND MAES. R&tne. the entrances tb them must have opened from a narrow passage that separated the Temple of Pietas from those of Spes and Juno : one of the columns of the former may be seen in the rt. aisle of the modern ch. Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus. — -Al though this magnificent temple, the pride and wonder of ancient Rome, has entirely disappeared, a catalogue of the Roman temples would be incomplete without some notice of its site. It was long supposed to have stood on the space now occupied by the Cafarelli Palace, but it has been shown by Ca nina, the best authority on the topo graphy of Rome, to have occupied the summit of the opposite hill, the present site of the ch. and convent of the Ara Cceli. The temple, as we learn from Livy, was founded by Tarquinius Pris- cus, and was 200 ft. in length, and 185 ft. in width. It was burnt down B.C. 83, during the civil wars in the time of Sylla, and rebuilt from its foundations by him, who decorated it with columns of Pentelic marble, brought from the Temple of Jupiter Olympius at Athens, but not completed until after the Dictator's death, by Q. Lutatius Catulus; it was entirely destroyed during the Vitellian riots, in a.d. 69, when so many monuments suffered from the barbarism of an undisci plined soldiery : re-erected by Vespa sian, it was burned for the third time in a.d. SO, under Titus, and rebuilt by Domitian. It is accurately de scribed by Dionysius, who says that it was divided into 3 cellae, and under one roof, that in the centre being dedi cated to Jupiter, that on the rt. to Minerva, and. that on the 1. to Juno. It faced the S., and was approached by a magnificent flight of steps, corre sponding to the centre of the modern Capitoline Museum, by which the vic torious generals approached, often on their knees, as we are told by Dion Cas- sius Julius Csesar did when triumph ant in B.C. 46. As there is no trace of the building itself, it would be useless to dwell upon it further than to mention that it was this temple which was struck by lightning B.C. 64, when the celebrated bronze wolf was injured, as described by Cicero. In the cell of Jupiter stood the statue of the god, which is represented, on medals still extant, in a sitting posture, with the foot extended. A tradition states that Leo I., in the middle of the 5th centy., melted down that statue to cast the bronze ohe of St. Peter, now in the Vatican Basilica ; but the tradi tion, though repeated by numerous writers, does not seem to rest on any well-recognised authority. Several fathers of the Church — St. Jerome, St. Augustin, St. Ambrose, and others — mention the temple as existing in their times ; and there are other authorities which notice it as late as the 8th centy., after which every trace of it is lost. Temple of Jupiter Feretrius. — This temple is also supposed to have stood on the same summit of the Capito line hill, and in latter times to have formed with the 3 smaller edifices — dedicated to Mars Ultor, Venus Vic- trix, and Jupiter Sponsor — the temples placed at the 4 angles of that of Jupi ter Capitolinus. The original temple was the first erected in Rome, and was built by Romulus to receive the spoils taken from Acron king of Ccenina. Temple of Mars Ultor, close to the Arco de' Pantani. This beautiful frag ment was formerly considered to mark the position of the Forum of Nerva, or the Forum Transitorium, and to belong to the magnificent temple erected to that emperor by his suc cessor Trajan ; however, most anti quaries now adopt the opinion of Palladio, and regard it as the Temple of Mars Ultor, erected by Augustus in the centre of his Forum, in conse quence of a vow to avenge the murder of Caasar, and dedicated in the year of the birth of Our Saviour. Niebuhr, on the other hand, like most of the modern German archaeological school systematically opposed to all who pre ceded them in the study of Roman topography, has given it another name, by supposing it to have formed part of the Baths of Caius and Lucius Casar. It was in this Temple that the Senate assembled to decide on questions of peace and war, on triumphs to vic torious generals, who deposited in it their insignia. The ruin, which has been excavated to its base, consists of a por- Sect. I. §11. TEMPLES OF MINERVA. 41 tion at the Cella, with 3 Corinthian columns and a pilaster of the rt. peri style, all 54 feet high and of white marble. The ornaments are in the purest style, and the proportions are regarded by architects as a model of the Corinthian order. Behind the columns, and partly resting on them, are the buildings of the convent of the Annunziata, which is believed to conceal the cella of the temple. Close to the ruin is an archway, called V Arco de' Pantani, half-buried in the soil, which formed one of the ancient entrances to the Forum of Augustus, on the side of the Quirinal. The outer wall of the Forum may be traced as far as the Piazza del Grillo ; it is a stupendous fragment, between 500 and 600 feet in length, of great height, and built of square blocks of Alban stone, laid alternately on their sides and ends, as in the so-called Etruscan style, showing that this early mode of building was continued until a late period. It makes 3 or 4 angles, and was originally pierced with several arches on the side of the Quirinal, 3 of which are now walled up, and half-buried under the accumulations of the soil. Temple of Minerva Chalcidica, in the Roman Forum, between the Palatine and the Basilica Julia. This ruin has been keenly contested by the anti quaries, having been called at various times the Temple of Jupiter Stator, the Graecostasis, the Temple of the Dioscuri, a part of the Comitium, a senate-house, and even the bridge of Caligula. The present name is that given to it by Bunsen, who connects it with the Curia Julia, whilst Canina supposes it to have been a portion of the Curia Julia itself. It consists of 3 fluted columns of Greek marble of the Corinthian order, on a basement of travertine. The columns support an entablature of great richness, and beautifully proportioned. The flutings are about 9 in. across ; the columns are 47£ ft. high, and 4 ft. 9 in. in diameter. In execution and propor tion this fragment is universally considered of the highest order of art, and architects still regard it as the most perfect model of the Corinthian order. In 1817 it was ex cavated to the base for the purpose of finding the angles, and more recent investigations have proved that it formed a portion of an extensive edi fice, of which the foundations may be traced for a considerable distance. Numerous mouldings and fragments of columns have been discovered in the recent excavations of the Ba silica Julia, and the north-western foundations laid open. The fragments of the Fasti Consulares, preserved in the Capitol, were found near this ruin in the 16th century. Temple of Minerva Medica, a pictu resque ruin on the Esquiline, near the Porta Maggiore, consisting of a building of 10 sides, 80 ft. in dia meter, with a large dome of brick which forms a conspicuous object from all parts of the surrounding gardens. The circumference has 9 large niches for statues, which suggested the idea that it was a pantheon dedicated to Minerva Medica. The discovery of 7 of these statues at various times, and particularly of those of Minerva and iEsculapius, has been adduced in con firmation of this view. The bare walls and some vestiges of buttresses alone remain; but the building appears to have been lined with marble. The age of the edifice is not known, but it is generally referred to the time of Gal lienus, and the best antiquaries of the present day consider that it formed a part of the baths erected in the Lici- nian Gardens by that emperor. Temple, more properly the Portico, of Pallas Minerva, commonly called by the people of the quarter Le Colon- nacce, not far from the ruins of the Temple of Mars Ultor. This fragment, which is well known from models and engravings, is one of the beautiful ruins of Rome, although the details may be considered to mark the period of the decline of art. It consists of 2 columns of the Corinth ian order, supporting a fine entab lature and continuous frieze. The columns are more than half-buried in the earth ; their height is esti mated at 35 feet, and their circum ference at 11. They stand in front of a wall of peperino, on which the capital of a pilaster is still visible. 42 § 11. TEMPLE OF NEPTUNE — PANTHEON. Rome. The frieze is richly ornamented with sculptures, representing the arts pa tronised by Minerva. In the attic above the 2 columns is a full-length statue of that goddess; and among the figures on the frieze are females weav ing; others weighing the thread, or measuring the webs; others again car rying the calathus; and a sitting veiled figure of Pudicitia. In the angle is the reclining figure of a youth with an urn of water. These columns are supposed to have formed a portion of a portico or inner recinct of the Forum Transito- rium, in the centre of which stood the Temple of Minerva, and of which not a trace now remains, although its hexastyle pronaos was still erect in the early part of the 1 7th century, bear ing an inscription that it had been erected by Nerva in the 2nd year of his reign. Inigo Jones in 1614 saw a part of it, and a sketch of it is given by Mr. Burgess from Camucci's ' Antichite.' It was pulled down by Paul V., and its beautiful Corinthian columns cut up to decorate his fountain on the Janiculum. A very exact idea of the building may be formed from Palladio's drawings of it. (Architettura, lib. iv.) Temple of Neptune, in tbe Piazza di Pietra, the site of the Portico of the Argonauts, erected by Agrippa, in the centre of which the temple stood. The reader will probably be already familiar with this temple, under the name of the Dogana di Terra, or Ro man custom-house. The 11 columns now remaining have suffered severely from the action of fire ; they belonged to one of the sides of the temple, which, according to the plan of Palla- dio, originally consisted of 15 columns. They are of white marble, in the Corinthian style, 4J feet in diameter, and 42J feet high. The bases and capitals have almost disappeared, and very little of the ancient architrave has been preserved. Innocent XII. built up a wall between the columns to form the front of his custom-house, and completed the present entablature with plaster. In the interior are some remains of the vaulting, composed of enormous masses of stone, together with fragments of the cella, which form apparently the foundation of the modern wall. The blocks of marble, forming the inner parts of the archi trave and entablature, as seen from the court of the Dogana, are stupen dous in size. Some ruins in the ad joining Palazzo Cini belong to the por tico of the Argonauts that surrounded the temple. Pantheon, commonly called La Ro- tonda. — This celebrated edifice is one of those relics of ancient Rome with the general appearance of which most travellers are familiar long before they cross the Tiber. It is situated in apiazza between the Corso and the Piazza Na- vona. The proportions of its portico have been for ages the admiration of travellers, and its name has become identified with architectural beauty. The ancients described it with admira tion 18 centuries ago, and it still re mains the best-preserved monument of ancient Rome. " Though plundered," says Forsyth, " of all its brass, except the ring which was necessary to pre serve the aperture above ; though ex posed to repeated fire; though some times flooded by the river, and always open to the rain, no monument of equal antiquity is so well preserved as this rotunda. It passed with little altera tion from the Pagan into the present worship ; and so convenient were its niches for the Christian altar, that Michael Angelo, ever studious of an cient beauty, introduced their design as a model in the Catholic Church.'' " Simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime — Shrine of all saints and temple of all gods. From Jove to Jesus — spared and blest by time, Looking tranquillity, while falls or nods Arch, empire, each thing round thee, and man plods His way through thorns to ashes— glorious dome I Shalt thou not last? Time's scythe and ty rants' rods Shiver upon thee — sanctuary and home Of art and piety — Pantheon I pride of Rome 1" Cliilde Harold. The inscription on the frieze shows that it was erected by Marcus Agrippa in his third consulate (b.c 27). A second inscription, engraved in 2 lines on the border of the architrave, records the subsequent restoration of the building by Septimius Severus and Caracalla. In 608 Boniface IV. obtained permis- Sect. I. §11. PANTHEON. 43 sion frc*t the emperor Phocas to con secrate it as a Christian church, under the name of S. Maria ad Martyres ; and to this circumstance the world is pro bably indebted for the preservation of the only monument of ancient Rome which has retained its original ap pearance. The Portico, which was raised 5 steps above the Piazza, has been admitted by most writers to be almost beyond criticism. Forsyth de clares that it is " more than faultless ; it is positively the most sublime result that was ever produced by so little ar chitecture." It is 1 10 feet long, and 44 deep, and is composed of 16 Corinthian columns of granite, with capitals and bases of white marble. 8 of these columns are in front, and the re maining 8 are arranged in 4 lines behind them. All the columns are in their original position except 3 on the E. ; one of these was added by Urban VIII. in 1627, and may easily be re cognised by the bee, the armorial bear ing of the Barberinis, on the capital ; the other 2 were added by Alex ander VII. in 1662, and are distin guished by the star over three hills of the Chigi family, introduced in a simi lar manner. Each column is composed of a single block, 46^ English feet in height, and 5 feet in diameter; 7 of those in front are of grey, the remain ing 9 in red Egyptian granite. The vestibule is supported by fluted pilas ters of white marble, corresponding with the columns. On the frieze of the entablature is the inscription, " m. AGRIPPA. X.. F. COS. TEBTIV3I. FECIT." The whole is surmounted by a pedi ment, which still retains the marks by which its bas-reliefs were attached. In the vestibule on the 1. of the door way is a Latin inscription, recording that Urban VIII. melted the remains of the bronze roof into columns to serve as ornaments of the high altar over the Apostle's tomb in the Vatican, and into cannons for the Castle of St. Angelo. Venuti states that no less than 450,250 pounds weight of metal were removed on this occasion. As a part of the roof had been previously strip ped by the emperor Constans II. , in 657, the reader may form some idea of the original magnificence of the temple. The marble doorway corre sponds in its architecture with the portico. Within it are bronze pilas ters, on which the doors are hung ; the opening is about 39 feet high and 19 wide. Over it is the ancient bronze grating, which has been preserved un altered. The bronze doors have been the subject of much controversy, but there appears to be no ground for doubting their antiquity, or referring them to other than classical times ; and the best authorities agree in re garding them as the identical doors of the original edifice. The interior of the temple is a rotunda, covered by a dome. The circular hall is 142 ft. in diameter, exclusive of the walls, which are said to be 20 feet thick in some places. The height from the pavement to the summit is also 143 feet, and the dome occupies one-half of the height, or 71J feet. In the upright wall are 7 large recesses, 4 of which have fluted columns of giallo antico of the Corinthian order, and 2 have similar columns of pavonazzetto marble. The 7th, facing the entrance, is open, and has 2 columns of stained pavonazzetto standing on each side. Between the larger recesses are 8 " aediculae," which have been converted into modern altars. Above these altars runs a marble cornice, richly sculptured, perfectly preserved, and supporting an attic, with 14 niches, surmounted by a 2nd cornice. From this rises the majestic dome, divided into square panels, which are supposed to have been originally covered with bronze. In the centre a circular opening, 28 feet in diameter, supplies the only light which the temple receives. The pavement is composed of porphyry and different marbles, dis posed alternately in round and square compartments. Some feet below this pavement is a drain to carry off the water which enters by the opening in the dome. Michel Angelo attributed the portico and body of the rotunda to Agrippa, the 1 st story of the interior to Hadrian, and the 2nd to Septimius Severus. There has been much con troversy in regard to the original des tination of the Pantheon, many con tending that it was connected with the baths constructed by Agrippa in this 44 § 11. PANTHEON. Rome- neighbourhood, and that the Corinthian portico was added subsequently. What ever value we may be disposed to attach to these conjectures, it is worthy of remark that a pediment and enta blature are distinctly visible behind the present portico, which seems to have been intended to conceal them, and that the portico was added to a pre-existing edifice. The form also of the Pantheon, separated from the portico, is simply that of the ancient calidarium, as may be seen on com paring it with the circular chamber at the baths of Caracalla. The body of the building is of brick work, strengthened by numerous blind arches ; it was formerly coated with marble on the outside, which has shared the fate of the bronzes and statues. The tasteless belfries which de form the portico were added by Bernini, at the command of Urban VIII. In the sacristy behind the building some remains of the baths of Agrippa may still be recognised. The Pantheon in more recent times has acquired an interest very different from these re cords of the empire and of Papal Van dalism. It is sacred in the history of art as the burial-place of Raphael, whose tomb is behind the 3rd chapel on the left, which was endowed by him, and is distinguished by a statue of the Vir gin and Child, known as La Madonna del Sasso, executed at his request by his friend and pupil Lorenzo Lotto. The Roman archaeologists, after having unsettled the faith of ages on every matter connected with the antiquities, began to raise doubts on Vasari's state ment respecting the last resting-place of Raphael. It was at length deter mined to settle the question by exa mining the spot, and accordingly, on the 14th September, 1833, the place was opened in the presence of several ecclesiastical dignitaries, and of Cam- muccini and other artists resident in Rome. The statement of Vasari was completely verified, and the bones of the immortal painter were discovered precisely as he describes, behind the altar of the chapel. " Four views of the tomb and its contents were en graved from drawings by Camuccini, and thus preserve the appearance that presented itself. The shroud had been fastened with a number of metal rings and points ; some of these were kept by the sculptor Fabris, of Rome, who was also in possession of casts from the skull and the right hand. Passavant remarks, judging from the cast, that the skull was of a singularly fine form. The bones of the hand were all per fect, but they crumbled to dust after the mould was taken. The skeleton measured about 5 feet 7 inches; the coffin was extremely narrow, indicat ing a very slender frame. The pre cious relics were ultimately restored to the same spot, after being placed in an antique marble sarcophagus from the Vatican Museum, presented by Pope Gregory XVI. The mem bers of the Academy of St. Luke were interested in this investigation, as they had been long in possession of a skull supposed to be that of Raphael, and which had been the admiration of the followers of Gall and Spurzheim. The reputation of this relic naturally fell with its change of name, the more irretrievably as it proved to have belonged to an individual of no celebrity." — Quart. Rev. The inscrip tion written by Card. Bembo, ending with the words Vixit An. xxxvii. In teger Integro3, refers to Raphael's having died on the same day of the same month he was born — the 6th of April. A tablet above records that Raphael was affianced to Maria, the niece of Cardinal Bibiena, their union being cut off by his untimely death.* On one side of the same chapel is the tomb of Annibale Caracci ; and on the other the inscription to Taddeo Zucchero ; in other parts of the building are buried Baldassare Peruzzi, Pierino del Vaga, Giovanni da Udine, and other eminent artists. The monument containing the heart of Cardinal Consalvi, who was titular car dinal of this ch., erected by his friends, with a bas-relief likeness by Thorwald - * In the small Museum of the Society of the Virtuosi del Pantheon, in the left-hand tower, and entered from under the great portico, are preserved all the relics of Raphael, with the drawings made at the time by Camuccini, and a fine original one of the Virgin by the great painter himself. The cast of the skull is of a most remarkable beautiful form. Sect. I. §11. TEMPLE OF QUIRINUS — OF ROMULUS. 45 sen, will not fail to command the respect of every traveller who can appreciate the merits of that excellent man and enlightened and patriotic statesman. The Pantheon, formerly surrounded by shops and houses, has been considerably laid open of late years, and it is expect ed will be soon entirely so, the govern ment having purchased the greater number of those still built against it for the purpose of pulling them down : in consequence of the removal of these modern buildings, the foundations of a considerable portion of the portico, which flanked the principal edifice towards the E., were discovered in 1854. Temple of Quirinus. — This celebrated temple, founded by Numa, rebuilt, according to Livy, by the consul Papirius, and again by Augustus, occupied the spot where Romulus miraculously disappeared during the thunder-storm. The Jesuits' gardens, behind the ch. of S. Andrea in Monte Cavallo, on the Quirinal, are supposed to enclose its site. Fulvio states that he saw the foundations of the temple on this spot, and that Otho of Milan, then Senator of Rome, removed all the re mains and ornaments which were dis covered, to form the stairs leading to the ch. of the Ara Coeli on the Capitol. Several fragments of antiquity have been discovered at various times in these gardens, but no remains of the temple are now visible. In the sub jacent valley, where thech. of S. Vitale now stands, is supposed to have stood the entrance to the Portico of Quirinus, which surrounded the temple. Temple of Remus, or of Romulus ac cording to some authorities, beyond the Roman Forum, called by Bunsen and his followers the jEdes Penatium — a cir cular edifice of the time of the Empire, about 30 ft, in diameter, more than half-buried under ground. In the year 527 it was adapted by Felix IV. as a vestibule to his basilica of SS. Cosma and Damiano. Urban VIII. is said to have added the an cient bronze doors, which were found at Perugia, and to have placed in their present position the 2 columns of porphyry, with the cornice, taken probably from the ancient portico. The cornice serves as the jambs of the doorway, and its sculpture does not appear to be earlier than the latter part of the 2nd century. Beyond this entrance are 2 cipollino columns, one with a capital, and part of an en tablature, deeply buried; they were formerly supposed to have belonged to the original portico, but nothing cer tain is known of their date or of the edifice to which they belonged. The church behind is raised about 20 ft. above the level of the ancient temple, which may be seen by descending into the oratory in the crypt below- In this crypt were found the fragments of the celebrated Plan of Rome, cut on slabs of marble, called the Pianta Capitolina, which are now preserved in the museum of the Capitol (see p. 266) ; they are supposed to have been engraved in the time of Septimius Severus or Caracalla, and to have served as the pavement of this temple. The entrance to the Pagan edifice appears to have been towards the adjoining street of S. Lorenzo in Mi randa. Temple of Romulus or of Vesta. — The ch. of San Teodoro, situated at the southern extremity of the Campo Vac cino, under the Palatine, has been sup posed by some antiquaries to occupy the site of this temple. Its form is circular, from which circumstance, and from its being mentioned by Ovid as standing on the Via Nova, and sub ject to frequent inundations as stated by Horace, it has been considered by Canina and the Roman archaeologists to be the celebrated Temple of Vesta. The antiquaries who refer it to Romulus rely chiefly on the circumstance that the bronze wolf now in the Capitol, and said to have been found in this neighbour hood, was that mentioned by Dionysius as standing at the Temple of Romulus. But there is no proof that the statue in question (see p. 260) was found here ; and therefore no value is to be attached to this doubtful opinion. Another presumption might be deduced from the fact that the Roman matrons carried their children to the Temple of Ro mulus to be cured, as they now do to 46 § 11. TEMPLE OF SATURN — OF THE SUN. Rome. the ch. of S. Teodoro every Thursday morning. Whatever may be the true state of the case, there is no doubt that the ch. is of high antiquity (see p. 200). Temple of Romulus (son of Maxen tius). — The name given by recent an tiquaries to the building known as the " Scuderia," adjoining the so- called circus of Caracalla, on the 1. of the Via Appia, and near the tomb of Caecilia Metella. Few ruins have been more disputed; some call ing them the stables of the circus, others the Mutatorium Caesaris, and others a Serapeon. The circus is known, from an inscription found there in 1825, to have been consecrated by Maxentius, a.d. 311 ; and the present building is regarded as the temple erected by him to his son Romulus. It is a circular edifice, with a vaulted roof, and is enclosed in a large rectan gular court, surrounded by the remains of a Corinthian portico. In the base ment are niches for sepulchral urns, so that it seems to have been used both as a tomb and a temple. The diameter of the building is about 106 feet, and the thickness of the walls not less than 14. There are two representations of this temple on coins of Romulus, one with a portico, the other with a dome. Formerly the ruin was called the Torre dei Borgiani ; from this cir cumstance it is supposed to have been converted into a stronghold by the Borgia family. Temple of Saturn, on the Clivus Capitolinus, overlooking the Roman Forum, called by Poggio Bracciolini in the 15th century, and others, the Temple of Concord. The ruin consists of a rude Ionic portico of 8 granite columns standing upon a basement of travertine. Six of these columns are in front, and 2 on the flanks ; but they have been so clumsily restored that the intercolumniations are unequal ; the columns are of different diameters, the mouldings of the base are irre gular, and the capitals of white marble are in the lowest style of the Ionic order. The pediment is a mixture of brick and travertine with fragments taken from other buildings, and has arches over the intercolumniations. On the archi trave is the inscription, senatvs. POPULYSQVE . ROMANVS — INCENDIO . consvmptvm , kestitvit. The restor ation, whenever it took place, was conducted without any regard to the principles of art ; and the portico as it stands is the most tasteless monu ment of the Forum. Poggio, who describes it, saw it nearly entire in the 15th century; during his stay in Rome the greater part of the temple was demolished, and he mentions having witnessed the destruction of the cella and many of the marble orna ments, for the purpose of making lime. The destination of this temple has been settled by the discovery of the site of the Milliarium Aureum at one of its angles, on the side of the Clivus Capi tolinus, which passed before it; and which is further confirmed by an in scription on an altar found near it, now in the Museum of the Capitol, which refers to the iErarium or Treasury, which it is well known formed a part of the Temple of Saturn. Temple of the Sun. — Under this name have been described some colossal mas ses of masonry on the terrace of the Colonna gardens on the Quirinal, and under the adjoining Piazza della Pi- lotta. They consist of part of an archi trave and frieze and the angle of a pedi ment in the Corinthian style, highly ornamented. In point of size they are the most stupendous fragments of marble in Rome. They are supposed to have belonged to the Temple of the Sun built by Aurelian. Their style and ornaments are certainly in favour of the opinion which fixes their age at a period when art was beginning to de cline ; although the work appears too good to be as late as the time of Aure lian. The colossal horses which we now see on the Piazza di Monte Ca vallo stood before this temple.* Temple of Trajan. — Of the magnificent edifice raised by the Emperor Hadrian * In lowering the Piazza before the Quirinal Palace in 1864-65, very massive foundations in rubble-work, composed of fragments of lava and Puzzolana cement, were discovered, remarkable for their extreme solidity, and covering a fine fragment of the Servian wall; they extended under the Pope's stables, the church of S. Sil vester, and the upper part of the Colonna Gardens. They evidently formed the substruc tions of the Temple of the Sun. Sect. I. § 11. TEMPLE OF TEA JAN — OF VENUS. 47 to hff great predecessor, and which was situated near the Forum of the latter, the only portions that remain are some substructions beneath the Pal. Valentini, entered from the Piazza dei SS. Apostoli. In excavating recently, some fragments of large fluted Corin thian columns in Pavonazetto marble, with portions of an elegant frieze and architrave, were discovered under this palace, which, without doubt, belonged to the edifice reared by Hadrian. Temple of Venus and Cupid, a ruin long known by this name, called by the German antiquaries the Nymphanim of Alexander, and by Canina the Sesso- rium built by Constantine : it is situated in a garden near the ch. of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, between the Aurelian wall and the Claudian aque duct. The name of Temple of Venus and Cupid has been given to it from the discovery, among the ruins, of a statue, now preserved in the Vatican, of a Venus with Cupid at her feet ; on the pedestal is an inscription showing that it was dedicated to Venus by a certain Salustia; in the features an tiquaries have discovered the likeness of Salustia Barbia Orbiana, wife of Alex. Severus. The ruin possesses little interest, and consists merely of 2 brick walls and a large niche. Temple of Venus and Rome, between the ch. of Santa Francesca Romana and the Coliseum ; a double temple, designed and built by Hadrian, to show that he was superior as an architect to Apollodorus, whose skill in erecting the Forum of Trajan had excited the envy of the emperor. The building is also interesting in connexion with the fate of that great architect, for, when asked by Hadrian for his opinion on his plans for this temple, his criticism, that they were good for the production of an Emperor, was too honest to be forgiven, and he paid the penalty with his life. The only portions now stand ing are the remains of the cellse, each terminated by the vaulted niches which contained the statues of the deities. Considerable fragments, however, have been brought to light, which have enabled architects to trace the plan and ascertain its dimensions. It ap pears from these fragments that the building consisted of 2 cellse turned back to back. At each end was a por tico of 10 fluted marble columns 6 feet in diameter, one facing the Forum, the other the Coliseum. The cellse joined each other by the vaulted tribunes which form the most conspi cuous portions of the existing ruins. The building was raised on a plat form 510 feet long and about 300 feet wide, surrounded by a portico composed of nearly 200 columns of grey granite, of which numerous fragments are still seen in different parts of the ground. From the dia meter of these fragments the columns are supposed to have been nearly 40 feet in height. This colonnade and platform rested on a rectangular basement raised 26 feet above the level space in front of the Coliseum. The flank, which may be traced from the Arch of Titus to the Meta Sudans, has been constructed in platforms of different lengths, so as to obviate the difficulty caused by the inequality of the ground. The basement of the front facing the Coliseum has at each end the remains of 2 large flights of steps. The apertures in it,", now walled up, at one time gave rise to some controversy as to their original purpose : they were believed by some to be sepulchral vaults excavated during the middle ages ; by others, cellars in which were stored the moveable decorations of the Coliseum. The square mass in front of the steps at the eastern angle is supposed to be the pedestal of the colossal statue of Nero. The Prussian antiquaries in the ' Beschreibung,' and Burgess in his 'Antiquities,' give plans and re storations of the whole structure ; but those in Canina's great work on Rome are much more correct and elabo rate: these plans, which are certainly borne out by the existing ruins, show that, in spite of the criticism of Apollodorus, it was one of the grand est edifices of Rome, distinguished by a remarkable regularity of design, and by great splendour of decoration. The ruins on the opposite side of the Via Sacra, recently cleared out (1872), consist of a series of large shops, bor- 48 § 11. TEMPLE OF VESPASIAN — OF VESTA. Rome. dering the Via from the Arch of Titus to that of Constantine. Temple of Vespasian, on the Clivus Capitolinus, above the Roman Forum, called the Temple of Jupiter Tonans by the older Roman antiquaries, the Temple of Vespasian by Canina, and that of Saturn by Niebuhr, Bunsen, and other German archseologists. Prior to the French invasion, the 3 beau tiful columns which compose this ruin were buried nearly to their capitals in accumulated rubbish. The French ascertained, by perforating the soil, that the basement had been partly re moved ; it was therefore necessary to remove the entablature and secure the columns by scaffolding ; the basement was then carefully restored, the ground was cleared, and the entablature re placed in its original position. To this ingenious restoration we are indebted for one of the most picturesque ruins of the Forum. The only portion of the basement which was found in its proper place contained the marks of steps in the intercolumniations, show ing how carefully every foot of ground was economised on this side of the Capitol. The columns are of white marble, in the Corinthian style, deeply fluted ; in some parts they retain the purple colour with which they appear to have been painted, like the temples of Pompeii and of Sicily. The basement also was coated with marble. On the entablature infront theletters estttver are still visible, the remains of the word Restituere, proving that it was a restored building. On the frieze are sculptured various instruments of sacri fice — the knife, the axe, the hammer, the patera, and the flamen's cap. The columns are 4 feet 4 inches in diame ter, and the general appearance of the ruin indicates that the temple was highly ornamented. We have stated that these columns were formerly sup posed to belong to the Temple of Jupiter Tonans. It is known that a temple of that name was erected by Au gustus in gratitude for his escape from lightning during the expedition into Spain, but it was on the Capitoline hill ; the Temple of Vespasian was restored by Septimius Severus and Caracalla, to which the inscription 6n the enta blature above noticed probably refers. To the 1. of the temple are some chambers, and a portico, recently re stored, of Corinthian columns with capitals adorned with trophies. It is called by Bunsen the Schola Xantha, from the name of a Fabius Xanthus, curator of the monuments, who placed here the silver images of the Dii Con- sentes, and which were again rein stated under the portico by Vettius Pretextatus in a.d. 367, as we see by an inscription upon its entablature. Temple of Vesta, or, according to Canina, and with greater probability, of Mater Matata, a circular temple at the Bocca della Verita, near the Ponte Rotto, and the Temple of Fortuna Virilis, and first consecrated under the name of St. Stefano delle Carrozze, and now the church of S. Maria del Sole. This elegant little temple has been for ages the admira tion of travellers, and the numerous models of it have made it better known than perhaps any other ruin in Rome. The name of Vesta seems to have been given to it on account of the cir cular form of the building. It must not, however, be supposed that this is the famous Temple of Vesta erected by Numa, and mentioned by Horace in connection with the inundations of the Tiber— " Vidimus flavum Tiberim, retortis Littore Etrusco violenter undis, Ire dejectum monumenta regum Templaque Vesta?" — which was situated between the Pala tine and the Capitoline hills, in the valley of the Velabrum, subject to being flooded, from its inconsiderable height above the Tiber. That celebrated temple, in which the Palladium was preserved, was undoubtedly nearer to the Roman Forum, and was probably on the site of the ch. of S. Teodoro (see pp. 45 and 200); and the build ing now before us is probably one of those which were erected, in ac cordance with the institutions of Numa, in each curia. The edifice we are now describing is generally referred to the time of the Antonines, though there is evidence that it ex isted in the reign of Vespasian, one of whose coins gives a representation Sect. I. § 12. THEATRES AND AMPHITHEATRES. 49 of a tample of the present form. It consists of a circular cella surrounded by a peristyle composed originally of 20 Corinthian columns, of which one only has been lost. The entablature has entirely disappeared, and the roof has been replaced by an ugly cover ing of red tiles. The ancient portion of the cella and the columns are of white marble. The diameter of the cella is 26 feet, the circumference of the peristyle 156, the diameter of the columns about 3, and their height 32. Some authors have identified this circular edifice with one of the several dedicated to Hercules in the Forum Boarium. § 12. Theatres and Amphitheatres. Theatre of Balbus, erected A.u.c. 741, by Cornelius Balbus, at the desire of Augustus. It was the smallest in Rome, although it is said to have con tained 11,600 spectators. The Palazzo Cenei stands upon the eminence formed by its ruins, but the only fragments now visible are a portion of one of the "cunei," which may be seen below that palace near the gate of the Ghetto, and 2 columns with a portion of an architrave on the sides of the door of a house, No. 23 in the ad joining street of Sta. Maria in Caca- beris, supposed to have belonged to the cryptoporticus of the theatre. Near this the 2 colossal statues of Castor and Pollux, which now stand at the top of the stairs leading to the Piazza of the Capitol, were found during the pontificate of Pius IV. Theatre of Marcellus, the second theatre opened in Rome, in the level space occupied by the Forum Olitorium, or great vegetable market, between the S. declivity of the Ca pitoline Hill and the Tiber. It was begun by Julius Caesar, finished by Augustus, and dedicated by that emperor to the young Marcellus, son of his sister Octavia, whose name he gave to that magnificent portico near to the theatre which he restored as a place of shelter for the spectators in unfavourable weather. The ruins, though encumbered by the Orsini Pa- \Rome^\ lace, and disfigured by the dirty shops which occupy the lower tier of arches, are still highly interesting. The build ing is supposed to have consisted of 2 tiers of the Doric and Ionic orders, upon which rose a closed wall decorated with Corinthian pilasters; the latter has entirely disappeared, and of the tiers of arches only 11 on each, and part of the 12th, now remain. This fragment, which may be seen near the Piazza Montanara, shows that the theatre was built externally of large blocks of travertine. The lower story, now half-buried beneath the street, is Doric ; the capitals of the columns and the entablature, though much mutilated, still supply us with many interesting details. The second story is Ionic. The third was probably Co rinthian, but it has been superseded by the upper stories of the modern houses. Notwithstanding the objec tions of recent critics, it is known that the building excited the admiration of the ancients ; Vitruvius praised the beauty of the whole structure, and the existing fragment supplied Palladio with the model for the Roman Doricand Ionic orders. The ruins have formed a hill of some size, on which the Palazzo Orsini was built by Baldassare Peruzzi. In the stables of the Osteria della Campana, some of the sloping walls, or " cunei," which sustained the seats, may be still seen ; and there is no doubt that many valuable fragments are con cealed by the mass of houses between the outer wall of the theatre and the Tiber. It is stated by the Regionaries that the building was capable of con taining 20,000 spectators. In the 11th century it was converted by Pierleone into a fortress, and was afterwards a stronghold of the Savellis. From them it passed to the Massimo and Orsini families. A fragment of the ground-plan of this theatre, with the name annexed, is preserved in the Pianta Capitolina. Theatre of Pompey, the first theatre erected in stone at Rome. It was built by Pompey the Great, repaired by Tiberius and Caligula, injured by fire in the reign of Titus, and restored by several of the later emperors. It was also repaired by Theodoric, and may 50 § 12. THEATRE OF POMPEY — COLISEUM. Sect. I. therefore be considered to have been entire in the middle of the 6th centy. In the middle ages it was converted into a fortress, and was a stronghold of the Orsinis during the troubled times of the 11th and 12th centuries. There are few monuments with which so many historical associations are con nected as this theatre. It is recorded by ancient writers that the opening of this new place of amusement was regarded by the older citizens as a corruption of morals; and that Pompey, to evade their opposition, built over the theatre a temple dedi cated to Victory or Venus Victrix, and pretended that the seats of the theatre were mere additions to the temple. The ancient plan of Rome, in the Museum of the Capitol, gives us a very accurate idea of the form and proportions of this theatre, but unfortunately the portion which con tained the plan of the portico is im perfect. The site occupied by the theatre lies between the chs. of S. Andrea della Valle on the N., and San Carlo a Catinari, the Piazza di Campo di Fiori, on the W. ; the Via dei Chiavari, the Via dei Giupponari, and the Via di Torre Argentina on the E. The Palazzo Pio is built upon its ruins. It was on this site that was discovered, in 1864, the colossal bronze statue of Hercules, now in the Vatican Museum, for which it was purchased for 50,000 scudi by Pius IX. It was found enclosed in a cham ber formed of marble slabs, and had been evidently placed there for con cealment, probably about the reign of Maximinus, from the coins of that Emperor which were found in juxta position with it. Although it is known that Pompey had placed a statue of Hercules before the Temple of Venus in his theatre, it is very doubtful that this dates from so remote a period, as its style is that of what may be called the Gladiatorial school : it may date from the age of the Anto- nines or of the Flavian Emperors ; it is nearly entire, the top of the head and one foot being alone wanting ; it is deeply gilt; }ts height is 15 feet. The semicircular fprm of the theatre, and even the inclination given to the ground by the vaultings upon which rested the seats, may be traced by fol lowing the houses from the ch. of S. M. della Grotta Pinta to the Piazza dei Satiri. In the cellars and vaults of the Palazzo Pio some arches and fragments of massive walls may be examined; but it is to be regretted that so little of a building of such peculiar interest in the history of the Roman people is accessible. In front of the theatre, extending in the direction of the modern Teatro Argen tina, was the famous portico of 100 columns, celebrated by many of the poets, adorned with paintings, statues, and plantations, and containing a Basilica or Regia. In this portico Brutus, as we are told by Appian, sat in judgment as praetor on the morning of Caesar's death. Close to the theatre was the memorable Curia, in which " Even at the base of Pompey's statue, Which all the while ran blood, great Cffisar fell." The celebrated statue, known as the Spada Pompey, was found in the Vi colo dei Leutari, between the Can- cellaria and the Piazza di Pasquino, in 1553. We know from Sueto nius that it was removed by Augustus from the Curia, and placed before the basilica on a marble Janus. The spot where it was discovered corresponds with the position indicated in the de scription by Suetonius. Among the his torical facts connected with this theatre, Aulus Gellius mentions the grammati cal question which arose in regard to the inscription on the Temple of Victory, whether the third consulate of Pompey should be expressed by cos. tertium or tertio. The literary men consulted on the point were divided in opinion, and Cicero, without meeting the question, suggested that the difficulty should be avoided by writing cos. tert. Subse quent grammarians seem to have in clined to tertium, as we see inscribed over the portico of the Pantheon. Coliseum, or Colosseum. — There is no monument of ancient Rome which artists have made so familiar as the Coliseum ; and there is certainly none of which the descriptions and drawings Sect. I. § 12. COLISEUM. 51 are so far surpassed by the reality. The amphitheatre was begun by Vespasian, in a.d. 72, on the site of the Stagnum Neronis,* and dedicated by Titus in his eighth consulate, A.D. 80, ten years after the destruction of Jerusalem ; but only completed by Domitian. As high as the third division of the seats was finished by Vespasian, and the portion above this by Titus and his successor. The Church tra dition tells us that it was designed by Gaudentius, a Christian architect and martyr, and that many thousand captive Jews were employed in its construction. It received successive additions from the later emperors, and was altered and repaired at various times until the beginning of the 6th century. The gladiatorial spectacles of which it was the scene for nearly 400 years are matters of history, and • it is not necessary to dwell upon them further than to state that, at the de dication of the building by Titus, 5000 wild beasts were slaughtered in the arena, and the games in honour of the event lasted for nearly 100 days. The gladiatorial combats were abo lished by Honorius. A show of wild beasts, which took place in the reign of Theodoric, and a bull-fight at the expense of the Roman nobles in 1332, are the last exhibitions of which his tory has left us any record. During the persecution of the Christians the amphitheatre was the scene of fearful barbarities. In the reign of Trajan St. Ignatius was brought from Antioch purposely to be devoured by wild beasts in the Coliseum ; and the tradi tions of the Church are filled with the names of martyrs who perished in its arena. The building was originally called the Amphitheati'um Flavium, or Flavian Amphitheatre, in honour of the family name of the emperors by whom it was commenced, continued, and completed ; and the first mention of the name Coliseum, derived from its stupendously colossal dimensions, occurs in fragments attributed on very doubtful grounds to our Venerable * " Hie ubi conspicui Venerabilis Amphitheatri Erigitur moles, Stagna Neronis erant." Martial, Epig. ii. Bede, recording the famous prophecy of the Anglo-Saxon pilgrims : — " While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand; When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall And when Rome falls, the world." " From our own land Thus speak the pilgrims o'er the mighty wall In Saxon times, which we are wont to call Ancient." — Childe Harold. This prophecy is generally regarded as a proof that the amphitheatre was tolerably perfect in the 8th century. Two-thirds of the original building have disappeared. The western and southern sides are supposed to have been destroyed during the siege of Rob. Guiscard, who showed as little reverence for the monuments of Rome as he did for the temples of Paestum. We have already seen that, after the ruin had been converted into a fortress in the middle ages, it supplied the Roman princes for nearly 200 years with materials for their palaces, and that the palace of St. Mark, the Farnese and the Barberini palaces, were in great part built from its ruins. After these spoliations the popes ap pear to have been anxious to turn the edifice to some profitable purpose. Six tus V. endeavoured to transform it into a woollen manufactory, and employed Fontana to design a plan for convert ing the arcades into shops; but the scheme entirely failed, and was aban doned after it had cost the pope 1 5,000 scudi. Clement XL, a century later, enclosed the lower arcades, and esta blished a manufactory of saltpetre with as little success. To prevent fur ther encroachments, Benedict XIV., in 1750, consecrated the building to the memory of the Christian martyrs who had perished in it. The French cleared the porticoes and removed from the arena the rubbish which had ac cumulated for centuries. Pius VII. built the wall which now supports the south-western angle, a fine speci men of modern masonry; his suc cessors have liberally contributed to wards the preservation of the fabric ; and very extensive works have been carried on during the reign of Pius IX., directed by Canina, to prevent any further degradation of this most D 2 52 § 12. COLISEUM. Rome. colossal of Roman ruins. A cross now stands in the middle of the arena ; and 14 representations of Our Lord's Pas sion are placed at intervals around it. In the rude pulpit a monk preaches every Friday ; it is impossible not to be impressed with the solemnity of a Christian service on a site so much identified with the early history of our common faith. _The amphitheatre is built principally of travertine, though large masses of brick-work are to be seen in dif ferent parts of the interior. Its form is, as usual, elliptical. The outer elevation consists of 4 stories : the 3 lower are composed of arches supported by piers faced with half- columns, and the fourth is a solid wall faced with pilasters, and pierced in the alternate compartments with 40 square openings. In each of the lower tiers there were 80 arches. The lowest, of the Doric order, is nearly 30 ft. high; the second, Ionic, about 38 ft. high ; the third, Corinthian, of the same height; and the fourth, also Corinthian, is 44 ft. high ; above the last is an entablature, and many of the consoles which projected in order to support the poles of the velarium, or awning, still remain. The height of the outer wall, according to Messrs. Taylor and Cresy, is 157 English feet; the major axis of the building, including the thickness of the walls, is 584, the minor axis 468. The length of the arena is 278, the width 177 ft. The superficial area, on the same authority, is nearly 6 acres. The arches were numbered from i. to lxxvi., as may still be seen on the N. side ; the numbers com mencing from the entrance towards the Cselian, which, occupying the space of 4, makes the total number 80. between those numbered 38 and 39 is one facing the Esquiline, which has neither number nor cornice ; it is about one-sixth wider than the others, and is supposed to have been the Imperial entrance. On the oppo site side there was a corresponding entrance from the Palatine, with a subterranean passage, still visible. This passage was constructed by Commodus, who narrowly escaped assassination in it. The state en trances for the solemn processions were at the extremities of the major axis. In the interior the centre is, of course, occupied by the arena. Around this were arranged, upon vaultings gradually sloping down towards the centre, the seats for the spectators. There were 4 tiers of seats corre sponding with the 4 outer stories. The first story was composed of 3 circular porticoes. At the base surrounding the arena was the Podium, a kind of covered gallery, on which ! the em peror, the senators, and the vestal virgins had their places. Above this, and separated from it, were 3 orders of seats called the cavea, and an attic or roofed gallery, as may be seen on se veral coins on which the building is represented. The first order is sup posed to have contained 24 rows of seats ; it terminated in a kind of land ing-place, from which rose the second order, consisting of 16 rows. A lofty wall, part of which still exists, sepa rated this from the third order, and is supposed to have been the line of demar cation between the patricians and the plebeians. Above the third order was the attic and the covered gallery or por tico already mentioned, both of which have entirely disappeared. The Region- aries state that the amphitheatre could contain 87,000 spectators. The floor of the arena (probably of wood) rested on walls, forming 4 rows of small cells, in which the wild beasts were, it is sup posed, confined. A staircase opens near the old Hermitage, by which visitors may ascend to the upper stories, and from thence as high as the parapet. During the ascent they will traverse the ambulacra and galleries, and will thus be enabled to form a better idea of the whole fabric than they could do from pages of description. At the summit they will observe fragments of columns, cornices, &c, built up in the walls, as if the upper portions had been hastily finished with materials origin ally destined for other purposes. The scene from the summit is one of the most impressive, and there are few travellers who do not visit the] spots Sect. I. § 12. COLISEUM. 53 by «l»onlight in order to realise the magnificent description in ' Manfred,' the only description which has ever done justice to the wonders of the Coliseum : — " I do remember me, that in my youth, When I was wandering, — upon such a night I stood within the Coliseum's wall, Midst the chief relics of almighty Rome ; The trees which grew along the broken arches Waved dark in the blue midnight, and the stars Shone through the rents of ruin ; from afar The watchdog bay'd beyond the Tiber ; and More near from out the Cfflsars' palace came The owl's long cry, and. interruptedly, Of distant sentinels the fitful song Begun and died upon the gentle wind. Some cypresses beyond the time-worn breach Appear' d to skirt the horizon, yet they stood Within a bowshot. Where the Caesars dwelt, And dwell the tuneless birds of night, amidst A grove which springs through levell'd battle ments, And twines its roots with the imperial hearths ; Ivy usurps the laurel's place of growth ; — But the gladiator's bloody Circus stands, A noble wreck in ruinous perfection ! While Caesar's chambers, and the Augustan halls, Grovel on earth in indistinct decay. — And thou didst shine, thou rolling moon, upon All this, and cast a wide and tender light, Which sof ten'd down the hoar austerity Of rugged desolation, and fill'd up, As 'twere anew, the gaps of centuries ; Leaving that beautiful which still was so, And making that which was not, till the place Became religion, and the heart ran o'er With silent worship of the great of old : — The dead but scepter*d sovereigns, who still rule Our spirits from their urns." A good deal of speculation has been occasioned by the holes which are seen in the walls of the building. There is little doubt now, however, that they were made during the middle ages in search for the iron clamps which bound the blocks together, when the value of this metal was great compared to what it is at present. This state ment seems to set at rest the opinion of the older antiquaries, who supposed that they were made to receive the poles of the booths erected in the cor ridors during the fairs which were held there. Among the numerous writings to which the Coliseum has given rise is one of higher interest to the naturalist than the disputes of the antiquaries, — the quarto volume of Professor Sebastiani, entitled the Flora Colisea, in which he enumerates 260 species of plants found among the ruins, and the still more complete ' Flora of the Colosseum,' by Dr. Dea- kin, an English physician who resided at Rome, who has increased the cata logue of species growing on its walls to 420. With such materials for a /tortus siccus, it is surprising that the Romans do not make collections for sale, on the plan of the Swiss Herbaria ; we cannot imagine any memorial of the Coliseum which would be more acceptable to many travellers.* Tlie lighting-up of the Coliseum with blue and red lights, a splendid sight, can be effected, having previously obtained the permission of the police, at an expense of about 150 scudi, everything included. To visit the Coliseum by moonlight, it may be necessary to obtain a per mission at the office of the Commandant de la Place, which is always most obligingly granted, the ruin being a. military post. Close to the Coliseum is the ruin of the conical fountain called the Meta Sudans, which formed an important appendage of the amphitheatre. It ap pears to have been a simple jet issuing from a cone placed in the centre of a brick basin, 75 feet in diameter. It was rebuilt by Domitian, and is sup posed to have been intended for the use of the gladiators after their toils of the arena. It is represented on several medals of the amphitheatre, of the time of Vespasian, Titus, Domi tian, &c. The fountain was of brick work, in the best style ; the central cavity and the channels for carrying off the water are still visible. It was repaired a few years since, but these modern restorations may easily be dis tinguished from the ancient work. Two other monuments connected with the games of the amphitheatre were the Vivarium and the Spoliarium (p. 89). In a line with the Meta Sudans, and at the foot of the substructions of * Since the above was in type, an act of Vandalism has been committed by the Roman authorities, in destroying the Flora of the Coli seum : an act which cannot be sufficiently repro bated by the naturalist and the lover of the picturesque. 54 § 12. THEATRES AND AMPHITHEATRES. Rome. the Temple of Venus and Rome, are the remains of a huge quadrangular pedestal upon which the Colossus of Nero is supposed to have stood, after its removal by Hadrian to make room for his Temple of Venus and Rome ; it is represented on medals of the Coliseum of the Gordian emperors, Alex! Severus, &c. Amphitheatre of Statilius Taurus. — There appears to be little doubt that the Monte Citorio is one of the many artificial eminences which we meet with in different parts of the city, made up of the ruins of ancient edifices ; and the discovery of masses of brickwork still retaining the form of " cunei," in layingthe foundation of thepalace built by Innocent X., has led some Roman antiquaries to suppose that this eleva tion had risen on the ruins of this amphitheatre; it is more probable, however, that it stood nearer the Tiber, perhaps on the site of the Monte Giordano and the Palazzo Ga- brielli. Be this as it may, the Stati- lian Amphitheatre was finished in the 4th consulate of Augustus ; but from the silence of the Roman writers it appears to have been soon eclipsed by the greater attractions of the Coli seum. No trace of the amphitheatre remains, but behind the palace of Monte Citorio was discovered a co lossal column of cipollino, which evi dently from its unfinished state had never been raised, 42 ft. long by 4f ft. in diameter, consequently one of the largest known monolith masses of this marble. It had lain there for many years, but has been lately erected in the Piazza di Spagna, before the Pro paganda College, surmounted by a statue of the Virgin, in honour of the newly introduced dogma of the Im maculate Conception. Amphitheatrnm Castrense. — Between the Porta S. Giovanni and the Porta Maggiore, and adjoining the ch. of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, are the remains of this amphitheatre, con structed for the amusement of the troops. Its precise date is unknown, but it is generally believed to have been erected in the reign of Tiberius. It is built entirely of brick. During the reign of Aurelian a portion of its cir cuit was included to form a part of the new walls of the city. On the outside we see the arches of the lower tier filled up; but the half-columns of the Corinthian order, with their brick capitals, are still visible. The inside exhibits little beyond the out line of the greatest axis of the ellipse. In the arena, bones of wild beasts have been discovered, with an Egyptian statue and numerous fragments of marble, which show that the building was richly decorated. Outside the city wall, and close to it, are traces of a circus, which antiquaries suppose to have been the Circus Varianus, erected by Heliogabalus. Circus Maximus, in the valley called Murzia, between the Palatine and the Aventine, celebrated as the scene of the Sabine rape. This famous circus was founded by Tarquinius Priscus, restored with considerable additions during the republic, and rebuilt with unusual splendour by Julius Csesar. Augustus embellished it, and erected on the Spina the obelisk which we now see in the Piazza del Po polo. The circus was destroyed in the fire of Nero, and restored by Vespasian and Trajan. Constantine enlarged and decorated it, and his son Constantius erected a 2nd obelisk on the Spina, that which is now in front of the ch. and palace of the Lateran. Theodoric made the last attempt to restore it to its former splendour, but after his time it fell rapidly into ruin. Dio- nysius describes the circus as he saw it after its reconstruction by Julius Caesar; he gives the length as 2187 feet, and the breadth as 960. The cir cuit of the seats was 5000 feet. The porticoes alone, exclusive of the attics, could accommodate 150,000 persons; and the whole number of seats was pro bably not less than 250,000. The end nearest the Tiber was occupied by the carceres, under which the chariots stood before they started for the race. The other extremity, towards the S.E., was curved. It was surrounded by the porticoes and seats for the spectators. At this extremity are the only remains now visible. They consist of shapeless Sect. I. § 12. THEATRES AND AMPHITHEATRES. masses^f brickwork, which still show the direction of the curve. The first meta is supposed to have stood nearly opposite the Jewish burial-ground, and the foundations of the Carceres are probably concealed by the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin. The little stream called the Maranna, the Aqua Crabra, forming its Euripus, runs through the circus in its way to the Tiber. The gas-works of Rome, which have been recently erected near the N.W. ex tremity, have destroyed the oval shape of the circus, and form an eyesore in the beautiful vista which the classical traveller formerly enjoyed over it from the heights of the Palatine and Aven tine hills. Circus of Romulus or Maxentius, erroneously called the Circus of Cara- calla, situated beyond the Basilica of San Sebastiano, on the 1. of the Via Appia, and of the tomb of Csecilia Metella. — The name of Circus of Caracalla, given to these ruins, was shown to be erroneous by the discovery of 3 inscriptions in 1825, recording that it was erected in honour of Romu lus, the son of Maxentius, a.d. 311. This is the most perfect circus which has been preserved to us, and is there fore the most convenient for studying the general arrangement of this class of monuments. It forms an oblong of 1580 feet in length and 260 in breadth. The outer wall is nearly entire, and is constructed of brick and small stones, enclosing large earthen vases, introduced to lighten the build ing ; on the inner side a terrace has been formed by the fall of the seats. At one end of the circus are the Carceres for the chariots, 6 on each side of the principal entrance, flanked by 2 towers, supposed to have been the seats of the umpires. At the other, which is semicircular, is a wide gate way with a flight of steps leading from it. Two other entrances may be traced near the Carceres, and a fourth in the S.W. angle. On the E. side is a balcony, or pulvinaria, supposed to have been the station of the emperor ; and nearly opposite are some remains of a correspond ing building, where the prizes were probably distributed. The Spina may be traced throughout its whole length ; it is not exactly in the axis of the arena, but runs obliquely, being at its commencement about 36 feet nearer the eastern than the western side. It is supposed to have been 892 feet long, 20 broad, and from 2 to 5 feet high. It was decorated with va rious works of art ; among which was the obelisk now standing in the Pi azza Navona. At each extremity of the Spina, an eminence, on which the Metai stood, may be recognised. In 1825 the greater part of this circus was excavated at the expense of the banker Torlonia, to whom the estate upon which it is situated belonged, and under the direction of the late Prof. Nibby. During these works, the Spina, the Carceres, the Great En trance, &c, were laid open, together with many fragments of statues and bas-reliefs. The most valuable of these were the 3 inscriptions already mentioned; all of them bearing the name of Maxentius. The follow ing, as restored, has been placed at the great entrance; it states that the circus was consecrated to Ro mulus, son of Maxentius : — divo . ROMVLO . N. M. V. COS . ORD. II. FILIO . D. N. MAXENTII . INVICT. VIRI . ET . PERP. avg. NIPOTI . T. DIVI . MAXI- MIANI . SENIORIS . AC . BIS . AVOVSTI. The circular temple adjoining is de scribed as the "Temple of Romulus." (p. 45). Circus Agonalis, or Alexandri, built by the emperor Alexander Severus, is clearly identified with the modern Piazza Navona, which still preserves the outline of .the circus, and even the elliptical end. It is about 750 feet in length, and occupies the area of a Roman Rubbio, about 4j Eng. acres. Some ruins of the arches of the Circus may be seen under the ch. of S. Agnese. The Circus of Flora was situated in the space between the Quirinal and Pin cian hills, now partly occupied by the Piazza Barberini. The Flaminian Circus has entirely disappeared, though con siderable remains existed in the 16th century when the foundations of the 56 § 13. ANTONINE COLUMN. Rome. Palazzo Mattei were laid. A part of the circus was long used as a rope- walk, and the church of S. Caterina a Funari, whose name is a memorial of the fact, is supposed to stand nearly on the centre of it. Some sculptured decorations of its Carceres are pre served in the court of the Pal. Mattei. The Flaminian Circus in its longest diameter extended from the Pal. Mattei and the Piazza Paganica to the bottom of the ascent to the Capitol, at the Pal. Massimo in the Piazza di Ara Coeli. The Circus of Sallust, called also the C. Apollinaris, was situated in the depres sion between the Pincian and Viminal hills, and outside the Porta Collina of the Servian Wall. Its outline may be easily traced. Remains of the Car ceres are to be seen in the villa of Duke Massimo, and other ruins in the adjoining Villa Barberini, now Spit hover. The obelisk which now stands before the Ch. of La Trinitk de' Monti was found in this circus. The Circus of Nero, partly occupied by the Piazza with the Basilica of St. Peter's and the Palace of the Vatican, was destroyed by Constantine when he erected the church, in the 4th centy. It is said by the Church tradition to have been the scene of many Christian mar tyrdoms. The obelisk now in the Piaz za of St. Peter's stood upon its Spina. In the meadows behind the Castle of St. Angelo some remains of another circus, supposed to have been that of Hadrian, were discovered in the last century; but the excavations were subsequently filled up. § 13. Columns. Column of Antoninus Pius, discovered in 1709 on the Monte Citorio, in the gar dens attached to the house of the Mis sions, and erected to him by his sons Mar cus Aurelius and L. Verus. The shaft was a single piece of red granite 48 ft. high. Fontana was employed by Cle ment XL to raise it, but, the operation having failed, and the column broken, the fragments were used to repair the obelisk in the Piazza di Monte Citorio. The pedestal was taken to the Vatican, where it may be seen in the centre of the Giardino della Pigna ; it is ornamented with high reliefs, representing funeral games and the apotheosis of Antoninus and Faustina. The following is the inscription on it : — divo antonino AVGVSTO PIO — ANTONINVS AVGVSTVS ET — VERVS AVGVSTVS FILII. Upon the bottom of the granite shaft exists an inscription in Greek, a cast of which may be seen in the long gallery of the Museo Chiaramonti at the Vatican, stating that it was sent from Egypt by Dioscurus, an agent of Trajan, in the ninth year of his reign. Column of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, commonly called the Antonine Column, in the Piazza Colonna, to which it gives its name. This column was long confounded with the pillar represented on the coins of Antoninus Pius ; and the error was perpetuated by the in scription placed upon its base when Sixtus V. restored it in the 16th cen tury. The discovery of the latter on the Monte Citorio, and of an in scription, now in the Vatican Museum, containing the grant of a piece of ground, close by, to a certain Adrastus, freedman of Sept. Severus, charged to guard this column, as procurator or cus tode, has removed all doubt on the sub ject; and the present column is now known to be that erected to Marcus Aurelius by the Senate and Roman people, a.d. 174. It is a repetition of the historical pillar of Trajan, and exhibits the same mixture of styles ; the bas-reliefs surround the shaft in a spiral of similar design, but they are inferior in taste and execution. They represent the conquests over the Mar- comans; and are in higher relief than those of Trajan, exhibiting nearly the same amount of battles and military manoeuvres. One of these reliefs has attracted attention from its presumed connection with the legion composed of Christians from Mytilene. It represents Jupiter rain ing, with the water falling from his outstretched arms, and is regarded as a confirmation of the story related by Eusebius, that the army was reduced to great distress for want of water, and that the devotional practices of the Christian legion induced the em- Sect. I. § 13. COLUMN OF TRAJAN. m peror*to request them to pray for rain. Their prayers were successful, and the Christians had thus the merit of saving the army by their piety. A letter is given by Justin Martyr, in which the emperor acknowledges the fact ; but the authenticity of this docu ment is open to suspicion, although the Church has always upheld the tra dition, and this sculpture has been regarded with peculiar interest by ecclesiastical historians. The pedestal of the column was added by Fontana ; it is not well proportioned to the shaft. The height of the entire column is 1 22 feet 8 inches, including the base : the shaft being 97 feet, the pedestal 25 feet 8 inches. The shaft, includ ing its base and capital (excluding the pedestal of the statue), is exactly of the same height as that of Trajan, 100 Roman feet (29-635 metres = 97£ English) : hence the name of Columna Centenaria, given to it in the inscrip tion of Adrastus above referred to. The diameter of the shaft is 11 J feet. The pillar is composed of 28 blocks of white marble. On the sunimit is a statue of St. Paul, 10 feet high, placed there by Sixtus V. The interior is as cended by 190 steps, and is lighted by 42 openings ; it has frequently suffered from lightning, attracted by the bronze statue on its summit. It is supposed that it stood in the same forum as the Temple of Antoninus, the site of which is now occupied by a part of the modern Piazza and the Chigi Palace. Column of Phocas. — Prior to 1 81 3 this column had baffled all the conjectures of the antiquaries, as noticed by Lord Byron — " Tully was not so eloquent as thou, Thou nameless column with a buried base." In the year mentioned it was ex cavated to the pedestal, when an in scription was found showing that it was erected to the emperor Pho cas, by Smaragdus exarch of Italy, a.d. 608. The name of Phocas had been erased by Heraclius, but that of Smaragdus and the date prove that the column was dedicated to him. The pedestal is surrounded by 4 flights ot steps discovered in 1816, during the excavations made at the cost of the Duchess of Devonshire ; the construc tion of the steps indicates, the lowest style of art, and leaves no doubt that the column was originally taken from some ancient edifice. The shaft is composed of eight pieces of white marble, in the Corinthian style ; it was formerly surmounted by a gilt statue of the emperor to whom it was dedi cated. At the base, bordering the Sacra Via, are some pedestals, on whicli probably stood other honorary columns or statues. Column of Trajan, the most beautiful of all the historical columns, dedicated, as the inscription on the pedestal tells us, in honour of the emperor by the Senate and Roman people (a.d. 114). For 17 centuries this noble pillar has been regarded as a triumph of art; and there can be no doubt that the great architect Apollodorus, in erecting such a monument to his benefactor, created at the same time the most lasting memorial of his genius. It is composed of 34 blocks of white marble, 9 of which form the basement, and 23 the shaft ; the remaining 2 the torus and capital. The column is in excellent proportion, but the architec ture is mixed ; the base and capital being Tuscan, the shaft Doric, and the mouldings of the pedestal Corinthian. The pedestal is covered with bas-reliefs of warlike instruments, shields, and helmets ; and bears an inscription supported by 2 winged figures. A series of bas-reliefs form a spiral round the shaft, representing a con tinuous history of the military achieve ments of the emperor. These match less sculptures are in a high state of preservation and in the best style of art. They constitute a perfect study of military antiquities ; indeed, as a record of costumes, perhaps no ancient monument which has been preserved is so valuable. The bas-reliefs are 2 feet high in the lower part, in creasing to nearly 4 as they approach the summit. They begin with a re presentation of the passage of the Danube on a bridge of boats, and are carried on through thesuccessive events of the Dacian wars, representing the D 3 58 § 14. ARCHES. Rome. construction of fortresses, attacks on the enemy, the emperor addressing his troops, the reception of ambassadors of Decebalus who sue for peace, and other incidental circumstances of the Campaign. All these details will be found engraved in De' Rossi's work entitled ' La Colonna Trajana diseg- nata.' * The nature of the sculptures will be better appreciated by the fact that they contain no less than 2500 human figures, besides a great number of horses, fortresses, &c, than by any minute description. In the interior is a spiral staircase of 184 steps, lighted by 42 openings, leading to the summit, on which stood a colossal statue of Trajan holding a gilded globe which was erroneously supposed to have contained his ashes. This globe is now in the Hall of Bronzes at the Museum of the Capitol (p. 264). A statue of St. Peter in gilt bronze, 11 feet bigh, was placed upon the column by Sixtus V. about the end of the 16th century, when the feet of Trajan's statue are said to have been still fixed on the block of marble that supported it- The height of the shaft is 100 Roman feet, 97| English, and of the entire column from its base, exclusive of the statue and its pedestal, 127^ feet, which re presents the height of the neck of land or isthmus which united the Capitoline and the Quirinal hills, that was cut away to make room for the Forum, as expressed in the fol lowing inscription, which states also that the column was dedicated while Trajan held the Tribunitian power for the 17th time, and in his 6th Consulate : — senatvs . popvlvsqve . ROMANVS — IMP . CAESARI . DIVI NER- VAE F . NERVAE — TRAJANO . AVG . GERM . DACICO PONTIF — MAXIMO . TRIP.. POT. XVII. IMP. VI. COS. VI. P. P — AD DECLARANDVM QUANTAE . ALTITVDINIS — MONS ET LOCVS. TANTM. C£«RIBUS. SIT, egestvs. This fixes the date about the commencement of the Parthian war (a.d. 114), from which the emperor did not live to return, so that he never * And still better in the electrotype copies now in the Museum at St. Germain , from accurate casts made by order of Napoleon HI. saw this most remarkable monument of his reign and greatness. The ashes of Trajan, originally placed in a golden urn, were deposited by his successor Hadrian under the column, in a vault walled Up in 1585 by Sixtus V. § 14. Arches* Arch of Constantine, built over the road (the Via Triumphalis, the mo dern Via di S. Gregorio) leading from the Coliseum to the Via Appia, in the valley between the Ccelian and Palatine, to commemorate the em peror's victory over Maxentius, as stated on the inscription: — imp caes FL CONSTANTINO MAXIMO P.F. AVGVS- TO . S.P.Q.R. QVOD INSTINCTV DIVI- NITATIS MENTIS* — MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO — TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS — REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST AR- MIS — ARCVM TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DI- c avit. It is one of the most imposing monuments of Rome, although it ex hibits the decline of art and is com posed of fragments taken from one of the arches of Trajan, probably from that which stood on the Appian, near the Temple of Mars (seep. 368). Some writers have considered that the form and proportions of the arch are too good for the time of Constantine, and re garded it as the Arch of Trajan, adapted by Constantine, and loaded with additional ornaments. It has 3 archways, with 4 fluted columns of the Corinthian order on each front ; 7 of these are of giallo antico ; the 8th was originally of the same material, but it was removed by Clement VIII. to decorate a chapel in the Lateran. On the attic are 4 bas-reliefs, and over each of the smaller * There are doubts that the words quod in- stinctu divinitatis mentis formed part ot the ori ginal inscription. Vemiti and Nibby, from the state of the marble, supposed they had been added after the Emperor had embraced Christianity, to replace Divis Faventibus, or Notu Joins Op. Max. This idea has, however, been combated by Cav. de' Rossi, although it certainly appears that the inscription, particularly on the S. side, from the depression in the marble, has replaced another, effaced, as we see, on the arches of Sep timius Severus, in the suppression of the name of Geta. Sect. I. § 14. ARCHES. 59 arches^SirCular medallions, all relating to ( 2) the history of Trajan. The large reliefs on the flanks of the attic and the 8 statues of the Dacian captives on the architrave over each column, also belonged to the time of Trajan, and are easily distinguished from the inferior sculptures of Constantine 200 years later. The upper reliefs on the front facing the Coliseum represent — 1. The triumphal entry of Trajan into Rome — the temple represented on the background is supposed to be that of Mars, which stood outside of the Porta Capena, on the Via Appia ; 2. The em peror raising a recumbent figure, an allegorical allusion to the repairs of the Appian Way, or of the Via Trajana ; 3. His distributing food to the people ; 4. The emperor on a chair of state, while a person, supposed to be Parthamasiris, king of Armenia, is brought before him. Some of these reliefs are inte resting as showing monuments existing at Rome at the period, such as the Rostra, the Basilica Julia, &c. On the southern side are — 1 . Trajan crowning Parthamaspates, king of Parthia ; 2. The discovery of the conspiracy of Decebalus, king of the Dacians ; 3. The emperor haranguing his soldiers ; 4. The sacrifice of the Suovetaurilia. On the flanks of the attic are the 2 reliefs supposed to have formed originally a single sub ject, the victory of Trajan over Decebalus, amongst the finest works of the whole. The circular medal lions over the small arches represent the sports of the chace and their attendant sacrifices. The works of Constantine do not harmonise with these beautiful sculptures. The frieze which encircles the middle of the arch represents, in a series of indif ferent bas-reliefs, military processions and various events in the life of the first Christian emperor. On the flanks are 2 circular medallions represent ing the chariots of the sun and moon, typifying the emperor's dominion over the East and West. The figures of Fame over the arch; the bas-reliefs inside the larger opening, representing the conquest of Verona and the fall of Maxentius ; the victories on the pe destals of the columns also belong to the age of Constantine, and show how much sculpture had degenerated even at that period. Over the reliefs on the interior of the great arch are the words fvndatori qvietis. li- beratori vrbis : the former, no doubt, alludes to the cessation of the Chris tian persecutions. The inscriptions votis x. votis xx. on the face towards the Coliseum over the smaller arches, and sic x. sic xx. in the same posi tion on the opposite side, refer to the practice introduced by Augustus of offering up vows for 10 and 20 years for the preservation of the empire. In the last century the arch was par tially buried. Pius VII. excavated down to the ancient pavement; and as it now stands, it is, with all the faults of its details, one of the most interesting and best preserved monu ments in Rome, which it owes pro bably to its having been dedicated to the first Christian sovereign. Arch of Dolabella and Silanus, on the Cselian, beyond the ch. of S. Giovanni e Paolo. It is supposed to have formed one of the entrances to the Campus Martialis, where the public games in honour of Mars were celebrated when the Campus Martius was inundated by the Tiber. It is a single arch of travertine, with an inscription, from which we gather that it was erected by the consuls P. Cornelius Dola bella and Caius Julius Silanus (a.d. 10). Nero availed himself of it by including it in the line of his aque duct to the Palatine. [A short way be yond this, towards S. Stefano Rotondo, is a fine mediseval arch, surmounted by a canopy, with a mosaic, a beau tiful specimen of the architecture of the 13th cent., having been erected by two of the Cosimatis. It formed part of a monastery attached to the church of S. Tomasso in Formis, one of the Pointed Gothic entrances to which may be seen in the adjoining wall ; the mosaic represents the Saviour seated between a white and a black captive, the religious order to whom the con vent and church belonged having been instituted for the redemption of persons carried off into slavery.] GO § 14. ARCHES. Rome. Arch of Drusus, on the Appian Way, close to the gate of S. Sebastiano, the most ancient of the triumphal arches now existing in Rome. We learn from Suetonius that an arch was erected on the Via Appia by the Senate to Drusus, the father of the Emperor Claudius, the youthful conqueror im mortalized by Horace in two magnifi cent odes (lib. iv. i, 14, et seq.) : — " Videre Rhffiti bella sub Alpibus Drusum gerentem, et Vindelici ;" fec it consists of a single arch, built chiefly of travertine, with cornices of marble, and 2 marble columns on each side, of the Composite order. Above the entablature the remains of a pe diment may be distinguished among the ivy and. weeds which now clothe the summit. There is no inscription. Caracalla included the arch in the line of the aqueduct to convey water to his Thermae, of which a portion re mains ; to his restorations belong pro bably the composite columns and de corations now on it. Coins exist on which this arch is represented sur mounted by an equestrian statue be tween 2 military trophies. Arch of Gallienus, called the Arco di San Vito, from the adjoining ch. dedi cated to that saint. It is supposed to stand upon the site of the Porta Es- quilina of the Servian Wall, and was dedicated to Gallienus and his wife Salonina, by Marcus Aurelius Victor, a prefect of Rome about a.d. 260. It is a simple arch of travertine, with 4 Cor inthian pilasters and 2 buttresses. The inscription on the frieze is more than usually characterized by the flattery which was applied to this most profli gate of emperors. Arch of Janus Quadrifrons, in the Velabrum, supposed to occupy the centre of the open space to which was given the name of Forum Boa- riuni. This is supposed to have been one of the numerous arches of the same kind which were constructed at the junction of different streets, either as places of shelter or as covered ex changes. It is a high square mass, pierced in each front with a large arch, forming a vault in the centre. It is constructed with the utmost solidity, and the base is composed of huge blocks of white marble, which, from the existence of bas-reliefs on their inverted surfaces, evidently belonged to earlier edifices. The fronts are hollowed into niches intended to re ceive statues, and separated by small stumpy pilasters. Each front is 54 feet in length. All the proportions and details are in a degenerate style of art. It has been generally attributed to the age of Septimius Severus, although by some it has been referred to as late a period as that of Constantine. On the summit are some remains of massive brickwork, the ruins of a fortress erected upon the arch by the Frangipanis in the middle ages. Arch of Septimius Severus, in the N.W. angle of the Forum Romanum, erected a.d. 205, by the Senate and people, in honour of the emperor and of his sons Caracalla and Geta, to com memorate their conquests of the Par- thians and Persians. It is constructed entirely of white marble, and con sists of 1 central and 2 lateral arches, with transverse ones in the flanks. On the summit, as may be seen on coins of both Severus and Caracalla, stood a car drawn by 6 horses abreast, containing the statues of the emperor and his sons. Each front has 4 columns of the Composite order, and a series of bas-reliefs representing different events of their Oriental wars. Although these sculptures are of in different execution, they exhibit some curious details of military life. They represent harangues, sieges, the ar rangement of camps, the assault with the battering-ram, and the submission of the captives. On the side towards the Forum we recognise the emperor addressing his troops, the taking of Carrha, the siege of Nisibis and the flight of its king. On the rt. of the arch the emperor is seen receiving the king of Armenia and another prince, who comes to offer assistance ; in the lower part the battering-ram is seen at work. On the front facing the Capitol, the sculptures on the rt. represent in the upper part another harangue, and in the lower portion the siege of Atra. In the upper part of the opposite com partment we see the passage of the Eu- Sect I. § 14. ARCHES. 61 phrates and the capture of Ctesiphon; in the lower, the submission of an Arab chief, the passage of the Tigris, and the flight of Artabanus. In one of the piers is a flight of 50 steps leading to the top. In the lengthy inscription on the attic we recognise the erasure made by Caracalla of the name of his brother Geta, after he had him put to death a.d. 212. The words added are, optimis fortissimisqve principibvs, in the 4th line, in lieu Of P. SEPT. LVC . FIL GET.& . NOBI- liss . CiESARr, which has been made out, on examining carefully the effaced portion and the marks of the holes in it by which the bronze letters of this part of the inscription were ori ginally inserted. The arch was half- buried when Pius VII. commenced his excavations in the beginning of the present century. In 1803 it was laid open to its base, when an ancient pavement was discovered, probably of the middle ages, being much above the level of the floor of the arch, and totally unconnected with the ascent to the Capitol by the Clivus Capitolinus, which passed some yards further on the 1., as it was once supposed to be. Arch of Septimius Severus in the Vela brum, also called the Arcus Argentarius, Arch of the Silversmiths, situated close to the church of S. Giorgio in Velabro. The inscription on it shows that it was erected by the silversmiths (Argentarii) and merchants of the Forum Boarium to Septimius Severus, his wife Julia Pia, and their sons Caracalla and Geta, but the name of the latter was removed also here after his murder by Cara calla. As in the other arch of this em peror in the Forum, the line occupied by the name of Geta and his titles has been replaced by the words fortissimo felicissimoqve principi. This arch consists of a mere square aperture, formed by astraightlintel or entablature supported on broad pilasters of the Composite order. The front is of marble ; the basement and cornice at the back are of travertine. The pi lasters are loaded with ornaments and military trophies ; the other reliefs represent various sacrificial instru ments and two persons in the act of sacrificing. Some of the decorations are elaborate, but the style and exe cution of the whole indicate the decline of art. The inscription is of importance, as confirming the site of the Forum Boarium, since it states that the persons who erected it lived on the spot (argentarii et nego- tiantes boarii hujus loci qui in- vehent devoti nvmini forvm). The arch probably stood across a street leading from the Forum Boarium to the Vicus Jugarius and the foot of the Capitoline hill. Arch of Titus, erected by the Senate and people in honour of Titus, to com memorate the conquest of Jerusalem. It stands on the Summa Sacra Via, or highest point of the Via Sacra. It is one of the most elegant of all the triumphal arches known, only second to that of Trajan at Beneventum, and as a record of Scripture history is, beyond doubt, one of the most interesting ruins in Rome. It con sists of a single arch of white marble, with fluted columns of the Composite order on each side. In the time of Pius VII. it was falling into ruin, and would have perished but for the judicious restorations then made. It is easy to distinguish these modern additions, which are in travertine, from the ancient portion. The front towards the Forum has suffered more than that on the side of the Coliseum, and has preserved only a portion of the basement, and about half of the columns, with the mutilated figures of Victories over the arch. On the latter side the columns are more perfect, and nearly all the cornice and the attic are in tolerable preservation. The sculp tures of the frieze represent a proces sion of warriors leading oxen to the sacrifice ; on the keystone is the figure of a Roman warrior, nearly entire. On the attic is the original inscription, finely cut, showing by the introduction of the word " divo" that it was erected after the death of Titus, and without doubt by his successor Domitian : sena- TVS . POPVLVSQVE . ROMANVS — DIVO . TITO . DIVI . VESPASIANI . F — VESPA- siano . avgvsto. The bas-reliefs on the piers under the arch are highly interesting. On one side is a repre sentation of a procession bearing the 62 § 15. BATHS. Rome, spoils from the Temple of Jerusalem, among which may still be recognised the golden table, the silver trumpets, and the seven-branched candlestick of massive gold, which were said to have been thrown into the Tiber from the Milvian bridge during the flight of Maxentius, after his defeat by Con stantine On the Via Flaminia. The size of this candelabrum, as here re presented, appears to be nearly a man's height: so that both in size and form these bas-reliefs perfectly correspond with the description of Josephus, and are the only authentic representations of these sacred objects. On the other pier the emperor is repre sented crowned by Victory in his tri umphal car, drawn by four horses, and surrounded by Romans carrying the fasces. The vault of the arch is richly ornamented with sunk panels and roses ; in the centre is a bas-relief representing the divinization of Titus. The rising ground on which the Arch of Titus stands formed in ancient times that part of the Velia which connected the Palatine with the Carinse and the Esquiline about the Tor dei Conti; near it topographers place the House of Numa, and the Porta Mugionis of the walls of Romulus (see p. 30). Between the Arches of Titus and of Constantine, extending along the Via Sacra, on tbe rt. the extensive ruins at the base of Gardens of San Bonaventura have been recently cleared out, laying open numerous ancient shops along the ancient Way, opposite to the Temple of Venus and Rome, behind which are numerous arched halls, extending to what was probably the site of a Temple of Apollo, on the Palantine. These excavations by Cavaliere Rosa will continue those on the Forum from the Basilica Julia, as far as the Coliseum, and thus include the greater part of the Via Sacra. The shops along the Via Sacra are much larger than those of Pompeii. These buildings are covered with walls and edifices of an early mediaeval period. § 15. Baths — Therms. Batlis of Agrippa, erected B.C. 24, in the Campus Martius, behind the Pantheon, and bequeathed by Agrippa to the Roman people. They are supposed to have extended as far as the Via delle Stimate, and to have been bounded on the sides by the street of the Torre Argentina and by the Via del Gesu, occupying a space of about 900 feet from N. to S., and 950 from E. to W. They contained the famous bronze statue by Lysippus, representing the youth undressing, called the Apoxy- omenos, which Tiberius removed to his palace, but was obliged subse quently to restore, in order to appease the clamours of the people. Consider able remains of these baths have been found in the rear of the Pantheon, and particularly in the sacristy. The Pan theon, dedicated to Jupiter Ultor and several other divinities, has been supposed by some antiquaries to have originally served as the hall of entrance to the baths. The largest portion of these baths now existing, after the Pantheon itself, may be seen in the Via dell' Arco della Ciambella ; it is a portion of a circular hall, probably the Laconicum or Calidarium. Attached to the Thermae were extensive gardens and an artificial lake, the Stagnum Agrippa:, which occupied the site extending to near the ch. of S. Andrea della Valle. Batlis of Caracalla, or Therms; An- toninse, situated in the level space be tween the Via Appia and the N.E. decli vity of the Aventine. They are the most perfect of all similar edifices in Rome, and occupy an area of 140,000 square yards. They were commenced by Caracalla about a.d. 212, enlarged by Elagabalus, and completed by his successor Alexander Severus. Accord ing to Olimpidorus, they could accom modate 1600 bathers at a time. As it would be difficult for the visitor to un derstand from a simple description the disposition of the different parts of the extensive ruin, we have had a ground-plan of them engraved on the map of Rome which accompanies this volume, to enable him to follow us in the following details. The baths properly speaking occupied an oblong rectangular space 720 feet long by 375 feet wide, in the centre of a large square enclosure, surrounded by por ticos, gardens, a stadium, and a large reservoir, into which the Antonine Sect. 1. § 15. BATHS OF CARACALLA. 63 Aquedilft, carried from the Claudian over the Arch of Drusus, emptied itself; in front of this enclosure ran the Via Nova, one of the most magnificent in Rome during the time of the Anto- nines ; the principal entrance to the Baths was from it, or on the side to wards the Via Appia, the modern Via di San Sebastiano. As an example of Roman magnificence, if we except the Coliseum, there are no ruins that leave on the mind a stronger impression than the Baths of Caracalla. We will suppose the visitor entering by the lane called the Via Antonina, which strikes off on rt. from the Via Appia, a short way beyond where it is crossed by the Marrana stream : the gate opens into an oblong hall of great magni tude (a), having on one side a circular tribune (b), which retains a part of its ancient stucco. This hall, similar to one (a) at the opposite extremity of the -baths, was richly paved in mo saic, especially the tribune. Opening out of this, which was surrounded with porticoes, and destined probably for gladiatorial exercises, we enter a large oblong apartment (c) called the Pinacotheca, and corresponding in some degree to that bearing the same name in the Baths of Diocletian : it is more probable that it served as the Cella Calidaria, from the openings which may be seen for vapour- conduits in the floor. On the right of this hall is a vast circular edifice, the Laconicum, a kind of gigantic vapour-bath, which had in the centre a large basin for cold water. This Laconicum (e) was surrounded by chambers. To the 1. of the Cella Calidaria is another oblong apartment (d), but at a lower level; this was probably the Cella Frigidaria, and by the best authorities is identified as the Cella Solearis described by Spartian. The passage in which he speaks of the Cella as a masterpiece of archi tecture, states that the roof was flat, supported by bars of brass, interwoven like the straps of a Roman sandal. The Cella Solearis must have been one of the most magnificent halls in the Thermae : it was surrounded by columns of grey granite, as we now see in the church of Sta. Maria degli Angeli, in the Baths of Diocletian, the last of which was removed in the 16th centy. by Cositno de' Medici, to support the statue of Justice in the Piazza di Sta. Trinita at Florence. Be yond the Cella Calidaria, and forming the S;E. portion of the rectangle of the Antonine Thermae, is a second hall (a), similar to that by which we entered. Considerable excavations were made here of late years, particularly at the expense of the late Count Velo of Vicenza, and large portions of the pavement in mosaic laid bare; this pavement, chiefly of a fish-scale form, is very beautiful, and formed of pieces of red and green porphyry and white marble. The mosaics of the Athletes in the Lateran Museum were also found here (see p. 278). The roof, which has long since fallen in, was also covered with white and black mosaic, as may be seen on many of the huge fragments formed of rubble-work lying about. Occupying the space between the baths and the Aventine is supposed to have been the Arena (/), now a vineyard, behind which was the Theatridium (g), and still higher up the reservoir (h) for the water to supply the Thermse from the Claudian Aqueduct. A convenient staircase leads up one of the massive piliers of the Cella Calidaria to the top of the building, from which there is a splendid view, not only over the mass of ruins, but the Campagna, with its aqueducts, and the Alban hills beyond. One of the most interesting facts connected with these baths is the discovery of many precious fragments of ancient sculpture, which now en rich the Italian museums, and at the same time attest the splendour of this majestic edifice. Among these are the Farnese Hercules, the colossal Flora, and the Toro Farnese, disco vered in the 16 th century, and now in the museum at Naples ; the Atreus and Thyestes, the two gladiators, the Venus Callipyge, the urns in green basalt in the Museum of the Vatican, the granite basins in the Piazza Farnese, with numerous bas-reliefs, cameos, bronzes, medals, and other treasures, most of which have been lost to Rome with the other property of the Farnese family. The baths are 64 § 15. BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN. Rome. described by contemporary historians as the most magnificent edjfice of Rome. They are supposed to have been tolerably entire in the 6th cen tury, until the destruction of the aqueducts by Vitiges during the siege in 537 rendered these and the other Thermae completely useless. From that time thay fell rapidly into ruin. It is related that, when the granite columns of the Great Hall were re moved, the roofs fell in with so fear ful a concussion that the inhabitants of Rome thought it was the shock of an earthquake. These extensive ruins were the favourite haunt of the poet Shelley. In the preface to the ' Pro metheus Unbound' he says, "This poem was chiefly written upon the mountainous ruins of the baths of Caracalla, among the flowery glades and thickets of odoriferous blossoming trees which are extended in ever- winding labyrinths upon its immense platforms and dizzy arches suspended in the air. The bright blue sky of Rome, and the effect of the vigorous awakening spring in that divinest climate, and the new life with which it drenches the spirits even to intoxi cation, were the inspiration of the drama." The ruins on either side of the quadrangle formed by the baths were, towards the Via Appia, parts of the portico with which they were sur rounded, and, on the declivity of the Aventine behind, of the reservoir into which the aqueduct emptied its waters for the supply of the thermae. Adjoin ing the thermae of Caracalla on the E. is the Vigna Guidi, where excavations at present in progress have laid bare a series of painted chambers of a consider able building, the lower walls of which have been decorated with white and black mosaics of considerable beauty, representing Hippocampi with rams' neads, tritons, nymphs, &c. Sig. Guidi is a considerable dealer in antiquities from his own excavations. These ruins are supposed to be of the time of Vespasian: the entrance opposite the ch. of S. Sisto. Considerable excavations are now (1872) in progress, under the direction of Cav. Rosa, in the Therms of Cara calla, during which several portions of its mosaic pavement have been laid bare. Batlis of Constantine, on the summit of the Quirinal, extending over the ground now covered by the Consulta, the Palazzo Rospigliosi, and the Villa Aldobrandini. They were erected about a.d. 326, and, according to an inscription in the Rospigliosi Palace, were restored by Petronius Perpenna, a prsefect of the city, in the 4th centy., after they had been long neglected. Considerable remains of them existed until the 16th, when they were removed by Paul V. to build the Rospigliosi Palace. The most interesting parts now remaining are some bas-reliefs, busts, inscriptions, and statues, collected together in the Casino of the Rospigliosi palace, neai4y all of which were found here. In the time of Clement XII. the re mains of a portico, painted with his torical subjects, and an ornamented ceiling, were discovered. The colossal horses before the Quirinal palace, and the statues of the Nile and the Tiber at the foot of the stairs leading to the Palace of the Senator at the Capitol, were discovered among their ruins. Baths of Diocletian, situated at the junction of the Quirinal and Viminal hills. These magnificent Thermae were begun by Diocletian and Maximian about a.d. 302, and finished by Constan tius and Maximinus. Cardinal Baro- nius states, on the authority of the martyrologists, that 40,000 Christians were employed upon the works, and it is added that some bricks have been found bearing the mark of the cross. It is very probable that the tradition led to the consecration of the ruins, and that we are indebted to this for the preservation of the finest hall which has been preserved from ancient times. The Thermae were of immense size, co vering a space of 150,000 square yds.; and capable of furnishing double the number of baths which those of Caracalla, then the largest in Rome, could, or upwards of 3200 ; the ruins, with the buildings surrounding them, cover an area nearly a mile in cir cuit, including all the space at pre sent occupied by the Piazza di Termini, the Carthusian convent and its gardens, Sect. I. § 15. BATHS OF TITUS. 65 the convent and gardens of San Ber nardo, the publicgranaries, and prisons. The buildings occupied a rectangular space, having in front a semicircular Theatridium, with two circular halls at the angles, which opened into the area, but the use of which it is difficult to de termine. Both of these latter still exist: one forms the modern ch. of San Bernardo; the other, situated at the corner of the Via dei Strozzi, is much dilapidated and has been converted into a public granary. Between them was the semicircular Theatridium, the remains of which may be traced in the gardens of the Bemardine monks, and along the projectedBoulevard leading towards the Quirinal. Between this and the 2 circular halls just described is the sup posed site of the Libraries, to which the literary collections of the Ulpian Basi lica had been removed. The main portion of the Thermse, properly speaking, formed an oblong square in the centre of the area. The principal entrances were on the N. and S., open ing from the streets leading to the Porta Viminalis and Porta Collina. The great central hall, called formerly the Pinacotheca, but now generally admitted to be the Cella Calidaria, was converted by Michel Angelo into the noble ch. of Sta. Maria degli Angeli. By including the circular vestibule at the entrance, and adding the tribune which stands opposite, Michel An gelo was enabled to convert the whole edifice into a Christian temple in the form of a Greek cross. The vaulted roof still retains the metallic rings to which the ancient lamps were sus pended, and 8 massive columns of Egyptian granite are standing in their original position. This church, although considerably altered, as we shall see, by Vanvitelli, in the last century, is still one of the most im posing edifices in Rome. (See p. 168.) The ornaments of the baths and the style of the whole building indicate the decline of art : the columns did not support the continuous hori zontal entablature of more ancient buildings, but sustained a series of lofty arches resembling the basilicas of later times. In this respect the modern ch. has a great advantage. " Michael Angelo," says Forsyth, "in reforming the rude magnificence of Diocletian, has preserved the simpli city and the proportions of the original, has given a monumental importance to each of its great columns, restored their capitals, and made one noble entablature pervade the whole cross." Behind this hall was the Natatio, now partly occupied by the tribune of the ch., and farther back still by the cloisters of the adjoining convent. In the gardens of the latter are some additional ruins, consisting chiefly of large masses of brickwork : some of these still retain part of their vaulted ceiling, and are apparently the remains of halls whose arches must have been of immense span. In the grounds of the railway station are the traces of a large reservoir which received from an aqueduct the supply of water for the Thermse. Baths of Nero and Alexander Severus. — There is some contradiction between the Regionaries and the other ancient authorities on the subject of these baths ; some distinctly affirming that they are identical, and others stating that the Baths of Severus were near those of Nero. The only way of solv ing the difficulty appears to be by supposing that the baths of Severus were an addition to those of Nero, as the latter were probably to those of Agrippa. They seem to have stood between the church of S. Eus- tachio, the Piazza Navona, the Piazza Madam a, and the Pantheon. The ch. of S. Luigi de' Francesi is built on a part of them. The Baths of Nero, according to Eusebius, were erected a.d. 65; those of Alexander Severus, on the same authority, about a.d. 229. Considerable remains have been dis covered at various times under the Piazza Navona, the Palazzo Giustini- ani, and the Palazzo Madama. The ch. of S. Salvatore in Thermis, near the latter, also identifies the site. The only remains now visible is the hemi- cycle, which exists in the stable of an inn in the Piazza Rondanini. The 2 columns added to the portico of the Pan theon by Alexander VII. are supposed to have been taken from these baths. Baths of Titus, on the Esquiline, overlooking the northern side of the 06 § 15. BATHS OF TITUS. Rome. Coliseum. It would hardly be pos sible to make any description of these ruins intelligible to the stranger with out first apprising him that consider able portions of the existing buildings, and especially those now the most in teresting from their arabesque paintings, are undoubtedly anterior to the age of Titus. It is well known that the house and gardens of Maecenas spread over the part of the Esquiline which faces the Coliseum, and that the site was subsequently occupied by a part of the Palace of Nero. In the construction of this new edifice Nero included the villa of Msecenas ; and hence it is possible that even some of the lower parts of the chambers now visible belonged to the dwellings of that celebrated personage. When Titus (a.d. 80) constructed his baths upon this site, he availed 'himself of the buildings of his predecessors, and erected vaults and walls in the apart ments in order to form a substruction for his baths, which consequently lie directly over the more ancient con structions. Domitian, Trajan, and other emperors, enlarged or altered the design towards the N.E., but the ruins are scattered over so many vineyards that it is impossible to distinguish their additions with any degree of precision. The Baths of Titus, which were constructed, as we know from contemporary historians, in great haste, are supposed to have occupied the space between the Via Polveriera and the high road on the northern side of the Coliseum, and covered an area of about 1150 ft. by 850. Those of Trajan, begun by Do mitian, extended in the direction of S. Pietro in Vincoli, and are supposed to have occupied an area of 600 by 500 ft. The crypt under the ch. of SanMartino is supposed to have formed part of these baths. One of the hemicycles was converted by the French into a powder magazine (Polveriera), which gives name to the. adjoining street. The other forms with the adjacent vaults a kind of terrace, from which the best view of the ruins is obtained. On the side nearest the Coliseum are the ruins of a semicircular theatre, with some remains of seats. The chambers of the Palace of Nero lie under the baths in an oblique direction, and a?re divided by walls and vaults, and were probably the dwellings of the imperial palace, one set opening to the S. and the other to the N. Among the more ancient remains may be traced a large ob long square, originally forming an open court ; it was apparently sur rounded on 3 sides by columns, the places of some of which can still be made out. The ruins of the fountain which occupied the centre are also visible. Further on are a bath-room and another hall, with a niche and pedestal for a statue, where it is said the Meleager of the Vatican stood. Opening upon this, and extending along one of the longest sides, are the principal apartments. The largest is opposite the fountain ; one of those at the side is pointed out by the ciceroni as the place where the Lao- coon was discovered in the pontifi cate of Leo X., although it is proved on the clearest evidence that it was found in the Vigna de' Fredis, between the Sette Sale and S. M. Maggiore. The walls still retain their ancient stucco, and are beautifully painted. It is generally supposed that these chambers belonged to the Palace of Nero, erected on that of Msecenas, as we have already stated, in which case the tomb of Horace could not have been far distant, as we know on the authority of Suetonius that among the ruins of his patron's villa was the last resting-place of the poet. On the northern side of these cham bers runs a long corridor, a kind of crypto -porticus, discovered in 1813. It is celebrated for its beautifully painted ceiling, the colours of which are still vivid, though the walls are damp, the whole corridor a few years back having been partly filled with earth. These interesting works are the most perfect specimens of ancient paintings which have been preserved in Rome ; they represent arabesques of flowers, birds, and animals, all of which exhibit the most graceful outline and remark able facility of design. One of the curiosities in this corridor is a painting, now almost effaced, representing 2 Sect. I. § 16. TOMBS AND COLUMBARIA. 67 snakes wiih a basin between them; the inscription explains the meaning of this mystic emblem, and conveys in unambiguous language the caution implied by the "commit no nuisance" at the corners of our streets at home. A room bears the name of Rhea Sylvia, from the painting on the vault representing the Birth of Romulus. In excavating, a small chapel, dedi cated to S. Felicitas, was discovered near the modern entrance to the Camere Esquiline, the name by which those now subterranean halls are designated. It is supposed to have been used for Chris tian worship as early as the 6th centy. ; on the wall was found a Christian calendar, which has been engraved by De Romanis. Many of the other apart ments retain traces of very rich deco rations, but the ruins are so confused that no very intelligible plan has been yet made out of them. The French have been erroneously supposed to deserve the credit of making known the existence of these baths; they certainly merit great praise for clear ing out many of the cnambers, and for rendering them accessible, as they now are, to visitors, but there is reason to believe that the greater part had been accessible for cen turies. In the time of Leo X. some excavations were made which brought to light the frescoes of the corridors. Vasari mentions this fact in his Life of Giovanni da Udine, and states that Giovanni and Ra phael were so much pleased with the paintings, that they studied and copied them for the Loggie of the Va tican. The unworthy story which attributes to the jealousy of Raphael the filling up of the chambers after he had copied the paintings, is unsup ported by the slightest authority, and is indeed contradicted by the fact that the great painter, who was too enthu siastic an antiquary to have even sug gested their concealment, proposed a plan to Leo X. for a complete survey and restoration of ancient Rome. The chambers and the paintings are de scribed by several writers of the 1 7th century, and it was even later than this that they were filled up by the authorities to prevent their becoming a shelter for banditti; in 1776 they were again partially opened by Mirri, for the purpose of publishing the paint ings; and in 1813 the whole site was cleared as we now see it, when Roma nis' work entitled ' Le Camere Esqui line' was published. There is no doubt that many interesting fragments still remain buried under the accumulations of soil. To the E. and at a short distance from the baths is the ruin called the Sette Sale, a massive building of 2 stories, one of which is still buried; it was probably a reservoir connected with the Thermae. The arrangement of the interior is peculiar ; It is divided into 9 parallel compartments by 8 walls. These compartments communicate by 4 arched apertures, placed so as to al ternate with each other, and thus pre vent the pressure of the water on the outer walls. This arrangement allows the spectator, standing in the first chamber, to look through all of them at once in an oblique direction. The length of the central compartment is stated by Nibby to be 40 feet, the height 9 feet, and the breadth 13 feet. The walls still retain the incrustation formed by deposits from the water. Near the Sette Sale is a high brick ruin, with 2 rows of niches for sta tues, supposed to have formed a part of the palace of Titus, but nothing whatever is known which will enable us to identify it. The same obser vation, indeed, may be applied to all the masses of brickwork behind the Camere Esquiline, extending towards San Martino ai Monti, and S. Pietro in Vincoli, although it is probable they belong to the successive constructions raised by Domitian and Trajan, to ex tend the original Thermae of the con queror of Jerusalem. § 16. Tombs and Columbaria. Mausoleum of Augustus, between the Via dei Pontefici and the Strada di Ripetta, erected by Augustus during his lifetime, and in his 6th consulate (b.c. 27), in the then open space about midway between the Via Flaminia and the Tiber. It was a circular building, stated by ancient writers jto have been 220 Roman feet in diameter. Strabo 68 § 16. MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS. Rome. describes it as the most remarkable monument in the Campus Martius,.and says that it " was raised to a consider able elevation on foundations of white marble, and covered to the summit with plantations of evergreens. A bronze statue of Augustus surmounted the whole. In the interior were sepulchral chambers containing his ashes and those of his family. The ground around the mausoleum was laid out in groves and public walks." The entrance, which was on the S. side, was flanked by 2 Egyptian obelisks, of which one now stands in front of the Palace of the Quirinal, the other in the Piazza of S. Maria Maggiore. The mau soleum contained the ashes of Augustus himself, of Marcellus, Octavia, M. Agrippa, Livia, Drusus, Germanicus and his wife Agrippina, Tiberius, and Caligula ; of Drusus the son of Tiberius, Antonia, Claudius, Britannicus, and Nerva. No one was buried here after the latter emperor. The first member of the imperial family whose ashes were deposited here was the young Marcellus, who died a.d. 22 ; and, so long as a fragment of this monument remains, the spot on which it stands will be hallowed in the estimation of the scholar, by those lines in which the greatest of Latin poets alludes to the newly-erected mausoleum : — " Quantos illevirummagnamMavortis ad urbem Campus aget gemitusl vel qua?, Tiberine, videbis Funera, cum tumulum pneterlabere recen- teml Nee puer Hiaca quisquam de gente Latinos In tantum spe toilet avos ; nee Romula quon dam Ullo se tantum tellus jactabit alumno. Heu pietas, heu prisca fides, invictaque bello Tlextera ! non illi se quisquam impune tulisset Obvius armato, seu cum pedes iret in hostem, Seu spumantis eqni foderet calcaribus armos. Heu, miserande puer I si qua fata aspera rumpas, Tu Marcellus eris." JEneid, vi. 873. The mausoleum is supposed to have been first devastated by Robert Guis- card ; it was converted into a fortress in the 1 2th century by the Colonna fa mily, who were dislodged by Frederick Barbarossa, in 1 1 6 7, when the tomb was reduced to ruin. It was converted into an amphitheatre for bull-fights until the time of Pius VIIL, by whom all cruel representations of that kind were forbidden : it is now occasionally used as a diurnal theatre for displays of fire-works, exhibitions of rope- dancing, &c. ! The ruin is so sur rounded by houses that it is difficult to examine it, or to form any idea of its original magnificence. The most accessible part is in the court of the Palazzo Valdambrini, in the Via Ripetta. The modern entrance to the arena is through the Palazzo Correa in the Via dei Pontefici. The walls are of immense thickness, offering some good examples of opus reticu- latum, and, though the interior is in a great extent filled up with rub bish, the part accessible is sufficiently capacious to hold many thousand per sons. The only remains now visible, in addition to the outer circular wall, are some masses of reticulated work in tufa, beneath the modern seats for the spectators. Connected with the mausoleum, and corresponding nearly to the modern Piazza di San Carlo in the Corso, was the Bustum, men tioned by Strabo, where the bodies of the imperial family were burned. The site of this was discovered in the last century, between the ch. of San Carlo in the Corso and the end of the Via della Croce. Some blocks of traver tine were found, bearing the names of members of the family of the Caesars. Five of them may still be seen in the Hall of the Statues (see p. 220) at the Museum of the Vatican, where they serve as pedestals. One bears the following inscription : — Ti. caesar GERMANICI CAESARIS F HIC CREMATVS est ; another, less perfect, livilla GERMANICI C . . . . HIC SITA EST; a 3rd, titvs cesar drvsi c^saris f hic sitvs est ; and a 4th, c ca:sAR GERMANICI OESARIS F HIC CREMATVS est; the latter probably one of the younger sons of Germanicus, so great a favourite with Augustus. Among the circumstances which have in vested many monuments of Italy with interest for the British traveller, may be mentioned, that the Palazzo Correa, adjoining the Mausoleum of Augustus, was the first place in which the Church of England service was publicly performed before a Protestant Sect. I. § 16. TOMBS OF EURYSACES BIBULUS — C. METELLA. 69 congregaUbn in the capital of Christ endom. Tomb of the Baker Eurysaces, outside the Porta Maggiore, on the Via Labi cana, the modern road to Naples by way of Frosinone and San Germano. This very curious monument was discovered in 1 838 imbedded in the walls built by Honorius, close to the colossal monu ment of the Claudian aqueduct; it was consequently so effectually con cealed that its existence was un known to the older antiquaries. It is a quadrilateral building of unequal sides, and of 3 stories or divisions, covered with slabs of travertine. The 1st story, or basement, is plain; the 2nd is composed of stone mortars, such as were used by bakers for kneading their dough. On the band above is the following inscription, which is repeated on each of the faces of the tomb : — est HOC MONIMENTVM MARCEI VERGILEI EVRYSACIS PISTORIS REDEMTORIS APPA- ret ; showing that Eurysaces was not only a baker, but a public contractor to the apparetores, certain officers charged to inspect the aqueducts. Above this are 3 rows of stone mor tars, placed on their sides, so that their mouths face the spectator. The angles are terminated by pilasters, supporting a frieze, which still retains several frag ments of interesting bas-reliefs, re presenting the various operations of baking, from the carrying of the corn to the mill to the final weighing and distribution of the bread. On the wall upon the opposite side of the road has been placed a bas-relief found during some recent excavations, representing the baker and his wife, and the following inscription: — fvit atistia VXOR MIHEI— FEMINA OPTVMA VEIXSIT — QVOIVS CORPORIS RELIQVIAE — QVOD SVPERANT SVNT IN — HOC PANARIO. Of the ancient Panarium, or bread-bas ket, mentioned in the concluding word of this inscription, and which formed the sarcophagus of Eurysaces and his wife, a fragment has been discovered. The workmanship and the spelling of the inscription indicate the end of the republic, or the first years of the em pire. Altogether the monument is a valuable illustration of the domestic manners of the ancient Romans. Tomb of Bibulus. — One of the few remaining monuments of republican Rome, situated at the extremity of the Corso, under the north-eastern angle of the Capitoline hill. It forms part of the wall of a house in the Via di Marforio, on the l.hand side on entering from the Via della Ripresa de' Barberi. It was a matter of dispute among antiquaries whether this tomb was placed within or without the walls of Servius Tullius ; it is now admitted that it stood without, in accordance with the law of the 12 tables, that all tombs should be outside the city gates, and that it was close to the an cient Porta Ratumena, on the road lead ing from the Campus Martius to the Forum. It is a massive quadrangular building of 2 stories, in the Doric style, and constructed of travertine. The upper story is decorated with 4 pilas ters diminishing towards the capitals ; part of the entablature and ornamented frieze are still standing. In the centre is a niche or doorway, with a moulded architrave. On the pedestal is an in scription recording that the ground on which it stands was given by a decree of the Senate and by order of the people (SENATVS CONSVLTO POPVLIQVE JVSSv) to erect on it the sepulchre of C. Pobli- cius Bibulus, the plebeian sedile, and his posterity, "honoris virtutisque caus- sa." This .tomb cannot be much less than 2000 years old. A portion of a similar inscription exists on another face of the monument, partly built into the wall of the adjoining house. Nearly opposite, in the same street, are the remains of another sepul chre, called, without any authority, the Tomb of the Claudian Family. It is now a huge shapeless ruin ; but some subterranean vaults under the modern dwelling are still visible, which evidently belonged to a tomb. The Flaminian Way (a portion of which has been laid bare in levelling the street) passed between these two tombs in its course to the Forum. Tomb of Cecilia Metella, about 2 m. from the Porta di S. Sebastiano, on the Appian Way, and 3 from the ancient Porta Capena, erected more than 19 centuries ago to the memory of Ctecilia Metella, the wife of Crassus, and 70 § 1 6. TOMB OF CECILIA METELLA. Rome. daughter of Quintus Caecilius Metellus, who obtained the name of Creticus for his conquest of Crete, B.C. 68. This noble mausoleum is one of the best preserved sepulchral monuments about Rome, and so great is the solidity of its construction that it would seem as if it were built for eternity. It stands on the extremity of a remarkable stream of lava, which has proceeded from an eruption at the base of the Alban hills near Marino. A circular tower, nearly 70 feet in diameter, rests on a quad rangular basement. This basement is composed of rubble- work, consisting of small fragments of lava and of brick, united by a cement formed of lime and Pozzolana, strengthened by large square key-stones of travertine, which project at intervals from the mass. The external coating was stripped at various times for making lime, and Clement XII. removed the larger masses to construct the fountain of Trevi. The circular part of the tomb is coated with magnificent blocks of the finest travertine, fitted together with great precision. It has a beautiful frieze and cornice, over which a conical roof is supposed to have risen. The battlements which have usurped its place were built by Boniface VIII. in the 13th century, when the tomb was converted into one of the strongholds of his family, the Caetanis. The frieze is decorated with bas-reliefs in white marble, representing festoons alternat ing with bulls' heads, from which the tower probably obtained the modern name of " Capo di Bove." On a marble panel below the frieze, on the side to wards the Via Appia, is the inscrip tion : — CAECILIAE — Q. CRETICI . F. — metellae . crassi. — Immediately over the inscription is a bas-relief repre senting a trophy; on one side is a figure of Victory writing upon a shield; underneath is a captive bound, in a sitting posture : the figures on the op posite side have been effaced. The interior contains a plain circular cham ber, lined with brick, contracting as it ascends ; the diameter of this chamber is about 15 ft. ; the sarcophagus of white marble, now standing in the court of the Farnese Palace, is stated on doubtful authority to have been found in it ; the roof has entirely disappeared, but the inclination of the stonework shows .that it was conical. Lord Byron's description of this tomb, in the fourth canto of ' Childe Harold,' is one of those eloquent bursts of feeling which appeal irre sistibly to the heart. It is impos sible to describe the interest with which the genius of our great poet has invested the monuments of Rome, even to the most indifferent of English travellers ; and there are few who will not agree with Sir Walter Scott, that " the voice of Marius could not sound more deep and solemn among the ruined arches of Carthage, than the strains of the pilgrim amid the broken shrines and fallen statues of her sub- duer." " There is a stern round tower of other days, Firm as a fortress, with its fence of stone, Such as an army's baffled strength delays, Standing with half its battlements alone, And with two thousand years of ivy grown, The garland of eternity, where wave The green leaves over all by time o'er- thrown ; — What was this tower of strength? within its cave What treasure lay so lock'd, so hid?— A woman's grave. But who was she, the lady of the dead, Tomb'd in a palace ? Was she chaste and fair ? Worthy a king's — or more — a Roman's bed? What race of chiefs and heroes did she bear ? What daughter of her beauties was the heir ? How lived — how loved — how died she ? Was she not So honour' d — and conspicuously there, Where meaner relics must not dare to rot, Placed to commemorate a more than mortal lot ? Perchance she died in youth : it may he, bow'd With woes far heavier than the ponderous tomb That weigh'd upon her gentle dust, a cloud Might gather o'er her beauty, and a gloom In her dark eye, prophetic of the doom Heaven gives its favourites— early death ; yet shed A sunset charm around her, and illume With hectic light the Hesperus of the dead, Of ber consuming cheek the autumnal leaf-like red. Perchance she died in age — surviving all, Charms, kindred, children — with the silver gray On her long tresses, which might yet recall, It may be, still a something of the day When they were braided, and her proud array And lovely formwere envied, praised, and eyed By Rome — butwhitherwould Conjecture stray? Thus much alone we know — Metella died, The wealthiest Roman's wife : Behold his love or pride 1 '' Sect. I. § 16. PYRAMID OP CAIUS CESTIUS. 71 Adjoining the tomb are the extensive ruins of the Caetani fortress. As early as the beginning of the 13th century the Savelli family had converted the ruin into a stronghold ; the Caetanis, before the close of the same century, obtained possession of it, and built those towers and battlemented walls which now form, from many points of view, a ruin scarcely less picturesque than the massive tomb itself. Their armorial bearings are still visible on the walls. The ruined chapel, with its pointed windows, bears a resemblance to many English churches of the same period. It was founded in 1296 by the Cae tanis, who seem to have converted the locality into a colony of their dependents. On a wall adjoining the monument of C. Metella are some fragments of 2 marble tombs, disco vered in 1824, belonging to Q. Granicus Labeo, the Trib. Mil. of the 3rd Le gion, and of a certain T. Crustidius. The pavement of the Appian Way, which is remarkably perfect at this spot, was laid open at the same time. There is a subterranean passage lead ing from the fortress to a catacomb, which is supposed to have been ex cavated by the Caetanis. A short way on the 1. beyond this tomb are the quar ries of lava which have furnished a large proportion of the paving-stones of ancient and modern Rome. The lava of Capo di Bove, the silex of Pliny, a very different substance from the silex of the moderns, is celebrated among mineralogists as containing many interesting minerals — Mellilite, Breislakite, Pseudo-Nepheline, Comp- tonite, Gismondite, &c. : of which the scientific traveller may see some fine specimens at Rome in the Museum of the Sapienza (see p. 309). Pyramid of Cains Cestius, the only sepulchral pyramid in Rome, situated close to the Porta di San Paolo. The spot is well known to every English traveller as being near to the last resting-place of so many of his coun trymen, the Protestant burial-ground. The monument is partly within and partly without the wall of Aurelian, who included it in his line of fortifi cations. It is a massive pyramid of brick and tufa in the centre, covered with slabs of white marble from the base to the summit. It stands on a square basement of travertine 3 feet high. The height of the monument is 114 feet, the length of each side at the base 90. In the centre is a small chamber, 13 feet long, the stuc coed sides and ceiling of which are covered with arabesques, which were first brought to light by Ottavio Falconieri, and described by him in a dissertation annexed to the work of Nardini. These arabesques ex cited great interest before the dis covery of the paintings at Pompeii; they still retain their original bright ness of colour, though somewhat in jured by the damp and the smoke of torches, and represent 4 female figures with vases and candelabra. The en trance is on the side of the cemetery. [The key to this chamber is kept by the custode of the Protestant burial- ground, close by.] At 2 of the angles are fluted columns of white marble, of the Doric order, discovered during the excavations of 1663. At the other angles 2 pedestals with inscriptions were found, which are now preserved in the museum of the Capitol. On one of them was a bronze foot, also in the same museum, which pro bably belonged to a statue of Caius Cestius. The inscriptions relate to the completion of the Pyramid by the exe cutors of C- Cestius, two of whom bore names well known in the time of Augus tus — M. Valerius Messalla Corvinus and L. Junius Silanus. There are 2 ancient inscriptions on the monument ; the first, in letters of large size, is repeated on the eastern side: — c. CESTIUS. L. F. POB. EPVLO. PR. TR. pl. — vii. vir. epvlonvm. The other is on the front facing the road to Ostia : it records the completion of the pyramid in 330 days : the letters are consider ably smaller than those of the former inscription : — opvs . absolvtvm . ex . TESTAMENTO . DIEBVS . CCCXXX. — ARBI- TRATV . — PONTI . P. F. CLA . MELAE . heredis . et . pothi . L. The monu ment is of the age of Augustus, and, as shown by the inscriptions, was completed in 330 days by his heir, 72 § 16. TOMB OF ST. HELENA. Rome. Pontius Mela, and his freedmanPothus ; C. Cestius was of the Poblician tribe, a praetor, a tribune of the people, and one of the 7 epulones, appointed to prepare the banquets of the gods at public solemnities. He was probably the person mentioned by Cicero in his letter to Atticus from Ephesus, and in his oration for Flaccus. In the 17th century the base of the pyramid was buried under 16 feet of soil. It was cleared and restored in 1663 by Alex ander VIL, as recorded by an inscrip tion placed beneath those already men tioned, and was laid open towards the Via Ostiense by Gregory XVI. a few years ago. Tomb of St. Constantia, beyond the Porta Pia, near the church of S. Ag nese : erected by Constantine the Great to contain the magnificent sarcophagus of porphyry, now in the museum of the Vatican, in which the ashes of his daughter were deposited. The tomb is a circular building, decorated with mosaics. It was supposed by the older antiquaries to have been originally in tended as a baptistery for the church of S. Agnese. It had also been consi dered to be older than the time of Constantine, chiefly on the evidence afforded by the capitals of the double Corinthian columns which support the dome. But the architecture is not sufficiently pure to give much weight to this opinion. The construction and style of the edifice seem conclusively to indicate the decline of art under Constantine, to whose time the building is no doubt correctly referred. It was converted into a church by Alexan der IV. in the 14th century (for a description of which see p. 159). Tomb of the Empress St. Helena, 1 J m. beyond the Porta Maggiore, on the Via Labicana, leading to Colonna. It is now called the Torre Pignattara, from the pignatte, or earthen pots, which are seen in the construction of the upper part of the walls. The tradition of the Church has pointed out this ruin as the mausoleum of the empress He lena, mother of Constantine, who died in Palestine at a very advanced age, whilst by some it has been described as the church raised by Constantine to SS. Peter and Marcellinus, whose cemetery or catacomb lies beneath. There is indeed no doubt that one of the large porphyry sarcophagi in the Hall of the Greek Cross at the Vatican was removed from it by Anastatius IV., and deposited in the Lateran Basilica, from where it was transferred to the museum by Pius VI. The remains now visible are those of a large circular hall, with walls of great thickness. In the inte rior are 8 circular recesses. From inscriptions found here it appears that the spot was either the camp or the cemetery of theEquites Singulares, from the 2nd to the 4th century of our era. One of these inscriptions, on the 1. of the entrance, with a curious bas-relief of a knight and his page, bears the name of Aug. Claudius Vi- runus, " Nat. Noric," supposed by Cluverius to have been an ancestor of the existing German family of Volckmark. A farmhouse, and a ch. dedicated to SS. Peter and Marcellinus, have been built in the interior of the ruined edifice. A flight of steps leads from the sacristy to the catacombs of these saints beneath. A quarter of a mile farther on the road, in the Vigna del Grande, has been recently discovered an interesting Catacomb, to which the name of St. Helena has been given. The Mausoleum of Hadrian, now the Castle of St. Angelo, the great Papal fortress of Rome. This massive edifice was erected by Hadrian about a.d. 130, on the rt. bank of the Tiber, within the gardens of Domitia, the aunt of Nero. The idea was proba bly suggested by the mausoleum of Augustus, which stood on the opposite bank of the river, the last imperial niche in which having been occupied by the ashes of Nerva, rendered another necessary. " Turn to the Mole which Hadrian rear'd on high, Imperial mimic of old Egypt's piles, Colossal copyist of deformity, Whose travell'd phantasy from the far Nile's Enormous model, doom'd the artist's toils To build for giants, and for his vain earth, His shrunken ashes, raise this dome 1 How smiles The gazer's eye with philosophic mirth, To view the huge design which sprung from such a birth ! " Sect. I. § 16. MAUSOLEUM OF HADRIAN. 73 The toBtb was probably completed by Antoninus Pius, who removed the ashes of Hadrian from Puteoli, where they had been deposited in a temporary sepulchre. Hadrian died at Baise, but we know on the authority of Dion Cas- sius that he was interred near the iElian bridge, in a tomb which he had himself erected ; his remains were therefore de posited here. After the time of Hadrian it became the sepulchre of Lucius Verus and the Antonines, and of many of their successors down to the time of Septimius Severus. The ashes of Antoninus Pius were deposited here a.d. 161 ; of Mar cus Aurelius, 180; of Commodus, 192; and of Septimius Severus, 211. It is a massive circular tower, 987 ft. in cir cumference, cased on the outside with huge rectangular courses of peperino, and standing on a square basement, each side of which is 247 ft. in length. Procopius, who saw it in the 6th cen tury, before it was despoiled, is the oldest writer by whom it is described. His description still affords a better idea of the original structure than any conjectural restorations. " It is built," he says, " of Parian marble ; the square blocks fit closely to each other without any cement. It has 4 equal sides, each a stone's-throw in length. In height it rises above the walls of the city. On the summit are statues of men and horses, of admirable work manship, in Parian marble." He goes on to state that it had been converted into a fortress considerably before his time, but without injury to the decora tions ; and he tells us that in the sub sequent wars against the Goths the statues were torn from their pedestals by the besieged, and hurled down upon their assailants. Its first conversion into a fortress dates probably from the time of Honorius, about a.d. 423. In the wars of Justinian we know that it was successively held by the Goths and the Greeks, and that it at length passed into the possession of the Ex archs, and became their citadel in Rome. At the close of the 6 th century, accordingto the Church tradition, while Gregory the Great was engaged in a procession to St. Peter's for the pur pose of offering up a solemn service to [Rome.] avert the pestilence which followed the inundation of 589, the Archangel Michael appeared to him standing on the summit of the fortress, in the act of sheathing his sword, to signify that the plague was stayed. In commemo ration of this event the pope erected a chapel on the summit, which was sub sequently superseded by a statue of the archangel. The name of St. Angelo was derived from this circumstance, but it does not appear to have been applied for several centuries after the event. In the 10th century the mausoleum was the fortress of Maro- zia, and the scene of many of those events which have rendered her name and that of her mother Theodora, the widow of Count Alberico of Tusculum and mistress of Pope John X., so disreputably celebrated in the history of that troubled period. John XII., the grandson of the latter, about a.d. 960, was the first pope who occupied it as a place of military strength. In 985 it was seized by Crescentius Nomentanus, the consul, who increased the fortifica tions to defend himself against the emperor Otho III., who had marched an army into Rome in defence of the pope. From this personage it acquired the name of the Castellum Crescen- tii, under which it is described by several old writers. The history of the fortress from this time would be little less than an epitome of the history of Rome through the troubles of the middle ages. It will be suffi cient to mention that in the 11th and 12th centuries it was held by the Orsinis. It is supposed to have been reduced to its present form in 1378, when it was occupied by the French cardinals who opposed the election of Urban VI. Boniface IX. repaired the fortress, and Alexander VI. about the year 1500 raised the upper part, and strengthened the base by erecting the bulwark of travertine between it and the bridge ; he completed the co vered gallery which leads from the castle to the Vatican, begun by John XXIII. on the foundations of the Leonine walls. Urban VIIL, in 1644, constructed the outworksof the fortress from the designs of Bernini, and com- E 74 § 16. MAUSOLEUM OF HADRIAN. Rome. pleted the fortifications by furnish ing them with cannon made with the bronze stripped from the roof of the Pantheon. The ancient portion of the building, forming the circular mass below the brickwork, may easily be distinguished from the latter additions of the popes. All the upper part is modern. The ancient quadrangular basement was laid bare on one side in 1825, and found to consist of blocks of peperino mixed with brickwork. About the same time the original entrance facing the bridge was laid open, and ex cavations were commenced in the in terior, which were attended with very interesting results. It was ascertained that the immense mass contained in the centre a large square sepulchral cham ber, to which led a high and wide winding corridor from a species of atrium opposite the entrance, the greater portion of which the visitor is now enabled to examine. This spiral corridor — which we now descend with the aid of torches from a door leading out of the modern staircase — is 30 feet high and 11 feet wide, built of brick in the very best style, and still re tains traces of its marble facing and some fragments of the white mosaic with which it was paved. It runs entirely round the building, or parallel to the whole extent of its outer walls. It was lighted by two perpendicular pyramidal apertures, which serve to show the enormous thickness of the walls. The entrance was a massive and very lofty arch of travertine, opening towards the jElian bridge, but now blocked up. Opposite this doorway is a niche which contained the colossal bust of Hadrian, now in the Rotonda at the Vatican Museum. The sepulchral chamber, in the form of a Greek cross, is in the centre of the mausoleum ; the largest niche is supposed to have con tained the urn which enclosed the ashes of Hadrian, whilst those of his successors were placed in the others. It is lighted by two windows per forated in the thickness of the walls ; the modern stairs leading to the upper part of the edifice pass over it. Exca vations have laid open u, portion of the ancient level, and the lateral niches are seen by descending into the cells beneath the steps. The workmanship is of the best kind : the immense blocks of peperino are fitted with the utmost nicety, and yet the holes in the walls, and the ornaments discovered during the excavations, prove that they were covered with marble. Among the other objects found at various times among the ruins of the Moles Hadriani are the large granite sarcophagus in the bap tistery at St. Peter's; the Barberini Faun, now at Munieh ; the Dancing Faun, in the Florence Gallery ; and the porphyry urn, removed by Innocent II. to the Lateran, for his own tomb. Some of the sepulchral inscriptions of the Antonines existed until the time of Gregory XIII., by whom they were removed, and the marble on which they were engraved cut up to decorate the chapel of St. Gregory in St. Peter's. In the modern part of the building, the saloon, painted in fresco by Pierino del Vaga, is worthy of notice. Its roof is decorated with elegant ara besques and ornaments in stucco ; on the walls are represented battle-scenes, painted by Sicciolante ; on that upon the right on entering is the portrait of P. del Vaga. Ascending higher is the square saloon, now converted into a barrack-room, ornamented with frescoes and stucco reliefs by Giulio Romano; the latter are very beau tiful, as well as the paintings of sea-nymphs, although both have suf- ered greatly from neglect. Open ing out of this hall is a circular apartment surrounded by presses, in which were once preserved the secret archives of the Vatican. In the centre stands a huge iron-bound chest, which contained the papal trea sures when the pope was forced to take refuge in the castle of St. Angelo. Ascending still higher are several dark and dismal cells : one larger than the rest contains a great number of oil- jars, and is supposed to have served as a store for that commodity, whilst others will have it that the oil pre served here was heated and used as a means of defence by being poured on the assailants. Near this are some Sect. I. § 16. TOMB ON THE VIA SALARIA, ETC. 75 small cells, evidently used to contain criminals, in one of which the custode will have it that Beatrice Cenci was confined — more probably her brothers. A winding stair now leads to the plat form on the summit, from which the view over the city, and the N.E. part of the Campagna, is very fine. There is no point from which the gigantic mass of St. Peter's and the Vatican is seen to more advantage. The bronze statue of the archangel was cast by the Flemish sculptor Wenschefeld, for Benedict XIV., to replace one in marble by Raffaele da Montelupo, a poor work, now pre served in a niche at the top of the great stairs. The celebrated girandola is no longer displayed from this castle at Easter, and at the feast of St. Peter and St. Paul, on the 28th and 29th of June; it was the grandest exhibition of fireworks in the world: since the occupation of the Castle of St. Angelo by the Papal artillery, it is exhibited on the Janiculum, in front of the Ch. of S. Pietro in Montorio. The strength of the castle as a military position is by no means remarkable; it is considered by engineers to be quite incapable of any long defence against the improved system of modern warfare. It will be necessary to obtain permission to see the interior of the castle from the general commanding the place at Rome. Tomb on the Via Solaria — This most interesting fragment of an tiquity was discovered at the com mencement of 1871, in destroying the massive towers of the Porta Salaria, which dated probably from the time of Aurelian. It consists of an oblong edifice of very massive construction, built of Alban Piperino, and Doric piers of Travertine, in the architec tural style of that of Bibulus (p. 69), and is, therefore, one of the most an cient sepulchral monuments in or about Rome. The upper portion has been destroyed, and no inscription has been discovered to indicate its age or the name of its occupant. A singular circumstance connected with it is the insertion of black marble pedestals be neath the Travertine piers. This ma terial being found only at a considerable distance from Rome — the Island of Sardinia, or the mountains of Liguria — were probably added during sub sequent repairs. On the opposite side of the gate — the N.E. — is a still larger tomb of a circular form, in Travertine. Both these sepulchres will be preserved. Tomb of Plautius, noticed in the ex cursion to Tivoli (see p. 375). Tomb of the Nasos. Of this interest ing sepulchral monument of the family of Ovid very little now remains ; it was discovered in 1674, and described by Santi Bartoli and Bellori, who have luckily left careful drawings of its paintings, in their Picturm Antiques. It is situated on the Via Flaminia, be yond the fifth mile, a short way before reaching the modern Casale di Grotta Rossa. Partly excavated in the sides of the tufa rock which forms the escarpment on the 1. of the road, it had a Doric front, surmounted by a pediment in masonry, facing the road. The interior, elegantly decorated, con tained inscriptions to Quintus Ambro- sius Naso, to his wife and freedmen. The paintings represented a poet con ducted by Mercury to the Elysian Fields, supposed to be Ovid, and several subjects from his Metamorphoses ; hence it has been concluded that this was the last resting-place of one of his collateral descendants (see p. 439). Tomb of the Scipios, in a vineyard near, and before reaching, the Porta di S. Sebastiano, on the left of the Ap- pian, perhaps the most ancient and certainly one of the most historic ally interesting of all the tombs yet discovered. In 1616 an inscription on a slab of Alban stone, now at the en trance of the Barberini library, was discovered on this spot, bearing the name of Lucius Scipio, son of Scipio Barbatus, consul in A.u.c 495, as founder of the temple of the Tempests, after his conquest of Corsica. At that time it was supposed that the tomb was situated on another part of the Appian, and Maffei and other anti quaries did not hesitate to pronounce the inscription a forgery. In 1780 another inscriptipn was dug up acci- t. 3 76 § 16. TOMBS ON THE VIA APPIA. Rome. dentally near the s^tnie spot, which left no doubt that the sepulchre of the illustrious family was not far distant. Further excavations were commenced, and the tomb and its contents were brought to light, after having been undisturbed for upwards of one-and- twenty centuries. Several recesses or chambers were discovered, irregularly excavated in the tufa, with a sarco phagus and numerous inscriptions. The ancient entrance was towards a cross road leading from the Appian to the Via Latina : it has a solid arch of 1 1 blocks of peperino, resting on half- columns of the same material, and sup porting a plain cornice moulding. Upon this rests the base of a Doric column, indicating either a second story, or that it was surmounted by an entablature. In one of the larger chambers was found the celebrated sarcophagus of pepe rino, bearing the name of L. Scipio Barbatus, now in the Vatican. The chambers at present contain nothing be yond copies of the inscriptions attached to the different recesses in the place of the originals, which have been trans ferred to the Vatican, together with a laurelled .bust, long supposed to be that of the poet Enmus. " The Scipios' tomb contains no ashes now ; The very sepulchres lie tenantless Of their heroic dwellers." Childe Harold. In one part of the sepulchral excavations additions of brickwork may be recognis ed, with some works of a later period. The members of the Scipio family in terred here, and of whom inscriptions have been found, were Lucius Scipio Barbatus, and his son Lucius Corne lius, who, being Consul, conquered Corsica; of Aulla Cornelia, wife of Gneius Scipio Hispallus; of a son of Scipio Africanus; of Lucius Cor nelius, son of Scipio Asiaticus; of Cor nelius Scipio Hispallus ; and of his son Lucius Cornelius. Several inscriptions bearing the names of persons of the great consular families of the Cornelii, Cossi, and Lentuli have also been dis covered, and are considered to have been interred here when the family of the Scipios became extinct. It must not be forgotten that Scipio Africanus was buried at Liternum, where he died ; but we know from Livy that his statue, with those of Lucius Scipio and Ennius, were placed in front of the family mausoleum at Rome. Tombs on the Appian. — As the prin cipal monuments on the Via Appia will be described in our Section of Excur sions about Rome (see p. 366), we shall only notice those near the gates. Of all the approaches to Rome, the Via Appia was the most remarkable for the number and magnificence of the sepul chral monuments which lined the road, like those which we see in the Street of the Tombs at Pompeii. Many of them are now nameless masses of brickwork. The most important tombs upon the Appian, mentioned by ancient writers, were those of the Scipios, the Metelli, the Servilii, Ca- latinus, &c. In his Tusculan Dis putations Cicero alludes to them in the following passage: — " When you go out of the Porta Capena, and see the tombs of Calatinus, the Scipios, the Servilii, and the Metelli, can you consider their inmates unhappy ?" The only one of these four yet dis covered with any degree of certainty is that of the Scipios. On each side of the road are several ruins of minor tombs of which nothing is known, and no light probably will now be thrown upon them. There is one, how ever, close to the classical stream, which still retains the name of the " brevis- simus Almo," which has been con sidered the Tomb of Priscilla, the wife of Abascantius. The high ruin nearly opposite to the tomb of Priscilla, and on the 1. of the road, is supposed to be the sepulchre of Geta. Near the ch. of Domine quo Vadis are the remains of another tomb, long considered to be that of the Scipios (within the walls) before the real sepulchre was dis covered. It is surmounted by a round tower of the middle ages. It appears to have been a circular building faced with travertine, and stands on a square basement. It had 12 niches for statues and a circular roof. About half a mile beyond the Porta San Sebastiano is a massive ruin called the Tomb of Ho- ratia ; the style of construction and the fragments of marble and ornaments Sect. I. § 16. TOMBS OS THE VIA LATINA. 77 which Hive been found near it show that it was of the imperial period. Tomb of the family of the Sempronii. — This very interesting fragment was discovered in 1864, in lowering the western ascent to the Quirinal, the Via della Dataria, which leads from the Piazza de' Trevi to the Pope's Palace on Monte Cavallo. It is at a considerable depth below the surface, and covered by extensive con structions of the Empire of two distinct periods, the latest belonging probably to the Portico of Constantine, and by an ancient road, with its pavement in blocks of lava. The ruin consists of a massive facade or wall of rectangular blocks of travertine, in finely adapted courses, pierced with a handsome arch, and surmounted by a cornice on which are sculptured palm-branches, and in elegantly-formed letters this inscrip tion : — CN. SEMPRONIVS . C. F. ROM. — SEMPRONIA ON. F. SOROR. LARCIA . MI. (or mv.) (for munatii) f. mater if, — which leaves no doubt as to its des tination. Judging from the form of the letters and the general style of the monument, it must have been erected in the last century of the Republic, and, like that of Bibulus on the Capitoline, marked the limits of the Servian Wall on the W. de clivity of the Quirinal hill and the position of the Porta Sanqualis, which led into the republican city from the Campus Martius. The tomb had evi dently been rifled, as no other portion of it remains except the facing or front. With reference to the modern build ings, it is situated at the extremity of the Caserna of Sta. Felice, on the rt. of the ascent, and on the opposite side of the street from the great entrance to the Pal. della Dataria. (This tomb is now covered up, but can be seen from the neighbouring barracks of San Felice.) A little higher up the hill was a fine fragment of a massive wall built of blocks of tuffa, probably a portion of that of Servius Tullius, upon which rested the substructions in rubble work of the Temple of the Sun erected by Aurelian, remarkable for their extent and extreme solidity, and extending under the Pope's stables, the ch. of S. Silvestro, and the Colonna Gar dens. Tombs on the Via Latina. — Amongst the most recent and important dis coveries in the neighbourhood of Rome, none are more interesting than that of these sepulchral chambers. Those who have travelled from Rome to Albano by the modern carriage- road will have remarked how the line of sepulchres which bordered the Via Latina, and marks its direction, crosses the modern road diagonally at the 2nd milestone on the Via Appia Nova, and in the direction of Frascati and Tusculum. The farm on the 1. of the road here, and extending to the arches of the Claudian Aqueduct, is the Tenuta of the Arco Travertino del Corvo — the first designation derived from one of the large arches of the aqueduct, which are built of travertine, under which the Via Latina passed ; the second supposed to be an abbreviation of Corvinus, a Roman family who had possessions, as appears from inscriptions disco vered hereabouts. In the course of 1859 an enterprising searcher after antiquities, Signor IFortunati, seeing that this district had not been exca vated in modern times, set about the work at his own risk and cost, the first resultof which was the discovery of the basilica of St. Stephen's, mentioned else where (p. 406), and of extensive sub structions of a Roman villa of the family of the Servilii originally, and which in later times belonged to that of the Asinii. Here were found some good specimens of sculpture of the times of Commodus, and numerous coins. Following up his researches, Sig. F. soon after came on the pavement of the Via Latina, lined, as the other great highways in the vicinity of Rome, with sepulchral monuments. The road itself consists as usual of polygonal blocks of lava, much worn, with a wide footway, evidently of the Lower Empire, judg ing from the careless manner of its construction and the materials em ployed. On each side are situated two interesting tombs ; that on the rt. preceded by a tetrastyle portico facing the road, followed by an 78 § 16. TOMBS ON THE VIA LATINA. Rome. atrium and triclinium paved in mosaic, from which a double flight of steps descended into the funereal vaults. These consisted of two large cham bers: the outer one, which has been much injured, has a large niche con taining a very mutilated marble sarco phagus ; the inner one is an oblong chamber 15 ft. long, with a vaulted roof covered with well-preserved bas- reliefs in stucco, in square and circu lar compartments, representing nymphs riding on winged and sea monsters, nereids, &c. The side walls and floor were covered with marble slabs, of which a portion still remains in situ ; whilst around were placed several se pulchral sarcophagi which were bas- reliefs of excellent sculpture. These sepulchral ^chambers are considerably below the level of the Via Latina ; the last was surmounted probably by a monument similar to the two in brickwork, still standing aboveground close by. As to the owner of this splendid mausoleum nothing is known. From the Signa Tegularia on some bricks employed in its construction, it appears to date from about a.d. 160. On the opposite side of the road, but less well preserved near the surface, is what may be called the Painted Tomb, discovered at the end of April, 1859 ; on the level of the road is also a triclinium, from which a single flight of steps descends into a double 'sepulchral chamber — the outer one surrounded by low arches with paint ings of birds, on which rest sarcophagi, some of which appear to have be longed to the family of the Pancratii ; the inscription upon one being still •preserved. The sculpture on these urns shows that they belong to the 3rd or perhaps to early in the following century. As we shall see in the cata combs and other sepulchral excava tions, the portraits of their owners have been left unfinished, or indeed merely sketched in outline, probably being purchased in this state at the undertaker's shop of the day, who had always a stock in hand, only re quiring the inscription and likenesses in be added, the latter of little use to a situation like the present where they could with difficulty be seen. The inner chamber, which is square, has a vaulted roof covered with beau tiful stucco-reliefs and paintings, the colours of the latter as fresh when first discovered as when laid on 17 centu ries ago. The reliefs represent chiefly subjects relative to the history of the Trojan war, the Judgment of Paris, Achilles at Scyos, Ulysses and Diomed with the Palladium, Philoctetes at Lemnos, Priam at the feet of Achilles, and detached figures of Hercules Ci- tharedes, Jupiter and the Eagle, and a set of lovely groups of Centaurs hunting lions, panthers, &c. There are 8 landscape subjects, with groups of men and animals, in square com partments, and infinite arabesque deco rations in relief, almost equalling the fineness of cameos in their execution. Round the base of the vault are remains of a cornice, and at the angles four figures in stucco, all now mutilated, although one of them was perfect when discovered, but which was stolen by some early visitors to the excava tion. The walls appear to have been also covered with stucco, but of which not a trace remains. On the floor are several sarcophagi, some of a good period of sculpture, representing the fables of Adonis, of Phaedra and Hip- polytus, of Bacchus and Ariadne, &c, probably of the time of the An- tonines; and in the centre a huge one in marble 9 ft. long, of a later period, and in the same style as the urns of the children of Theodosius in the ch. of SS. Nazario e Celso at Ra venna (Handbook for N. Italy). It has, which is unusual, places for two bodies, the skeletons of which were found nearly entire ; the sides and pyramidal or house-roof cover are without any kind of ornament. Dating probably from the 5th or 6th cent., it was evidently placed here after the original construction of the tomb ; indeed, from the door being enlarged and the vault of the outer chamber broken down, it is clear this sarco phagus, of a semi-barbarous period of art, had nothing to do with the original occupants of this magnificent sepul chral chamber. No trace has been yet Sect. I. § 16. COLUMBARIA. 79 found t» enable the archaeologist to fix the date of this second tomb ; but from the elaborate nature of the decorations, and from the total absence of cinerary urns, all the monuments being for corpses entire, it cannot date from an earlier period than the reigns of the Antonines.* Extensive constructions of what appear to have belonged to a suburban villa surround these tombs, especially towards the road. Tomb of Vibius Marianus, near the 6th m. on the ViaCassia,the modern road from Rome to Florence (see Handbook for Cen tral Italy, p. 357), commonly called the tomb of Nero, for what reason is an enigma. It consists of a massive oblong sarcophagus, with a huge cover in mar ble ; in front is an inscription to Vibius Marianus, who was Procurator of Sar dinia, Prefect of the 2nd Italian Legion, and a native of Dertona (the modern Tortona), and to his wife Reginia Maxima ; the monument was raised by their daughter Vibia to her parents, and dates probably from the end of the second century. Columbaria. — On all the great roads leading out of ancient Rome consider able numbers of this class of sepulchres have been found, and particularly on the Appian, Latin, andFlaminianWays. They bear so great a similarity to each other, that the description of one will, with few exceptions, apply to all. They were called Columbaria, from the rows of little niches, resem bling the nests in a modern pigeon- house, which contained the ollce, or urns, in which the ashes of the dead were deposited. In some cases the ashes are contained in marble urns, on which are engraved the names of the deceased ; but they are more generally placed in earthenware ollce, sunk into the brick- work of these recesses, with the names on a marble tablet above. These Columbaria, from their construc tion, were capable of containing the ashes of large numbers of persons : they were more generally set apart for the middle classes, freedmen, and per- * Au account of these discoveries will be found in Sig. L. Fortunati's 'Relazione degli Scavi e Scoperte lungo la Via Latina : Roma 1859.'—! vol. 4to. sons attached to the service of great families, and were often erected near the tombs of their patrons. Many of the extensive Columbaria about Rome appear to owe their origin to speculators ; in which places for urns were sold, as a certain number of square feet or metres of burying-ground are now-a-days at Kensal Green or Pere la Chaise. Such was evidently the origin of the numerous Columbaria laid open along the Via Appia and Via Latina, between the tomb of the Scipios and the Aurelian wall. It will not be out of place here to add a few words on the mode of burial adopted by the Romans at different periods. In early times., and until towards the 5th century of Rome, the bodies of almost all classes were buried entire, as appears to have been also the more usual custom amongst the Etrus cans. About the 6th century of Rome burning the remains of the dead became nearly general, although the great Pa trician families still continued to follow the ancient mode of interment. During the first Caesars cremation was uni versal, and continued to be so until the age of the Antonines, when the system of burying the bodies entire was again introduced, and generally followed in the latter half of the 2nd, the 3rd, and 4th centuries of our era. It is to this latter period that are to be referred most of the large sepulchral urns to be met with in ' our museums. At a still later period coffins of terra cotta became common, especially in the 5th and 6th centuries. It is scarcely necessary to add that the early Christians, like the Jews, were interred in coffin-like urns, or in niches in the catacombs, but the bodies always entire ; no instance to the contrary, in the hundreds of Christian cemeteries, and from the earliest period, having been yet discovered. Tomb in the Vigna di Lozzano, about J mile beyond the Porta Pia, on the rt. of the gate, near the E. wall of the Castrum Praetorium, and probably on the line of the Via Patinaria, which led out of the Porta Viminalis. It con sists of a cruciform chamber of tra vertine ornamented with a cornice 80 § 16. COLUMBARIA. Rome. and contained three marble sarcophagi covered with bas-reliefs representing Orestes and the Furies, and the Nio- bides, which have been removed to the Lateran Museum. An upper chamber, supposed to have been circular, had entirely disappeared. The masonry of the existing fragment is of the best kind, but nothing has been discovered to enable us to fix the date of its con struction. The following are the Columbaria about Rome best worth visiting : — Columbaria in the Vigna Codini, on the Appian Way, immediately beyond the garden in which the tomb of the Scipios is situated. These Co lumbaria, of which 3 are well pre served, contain cinerary urns chiefly of persons attached to the family of the Ctesars, and are by far the most inter esting and instructive monuments of the kind that now exist in Rome or its environs. That most anciently dis covered consists of a large square chamber, with a massive pier in the centre, supporting the roof, and pierced throughout with pigeon-holes for re ceiving urns. An ancient flight of steps leads from the door above to the bottom of the Columbarium, the walls of ' which were covered with frescoes and arabesques, some of which are still well preserved, representing birds and animals. Near this is a second Columbarium equally capacious, but without the central pier ; it is called improperly that of the Liberti of Pompey : in it are several inscriptions to persons attached to the household of the family of the Csesars, as Mc- dieus, Obstetrix, Argcntarius, Cimbalista, and to a certain Hymnus Aure- lianus, the librarian of the Latin Library in the Portico of Octavia. On the floor are 2 rows of smaller urns belonging to the members of a musical confraternity or club. A third Colum barium, but nearer the road, discovered in 1853, is perhaps the most interesting of the three, and appears to have been tenanted by a superior and more wealthy class of occupants than the other two ; it contains what might be designated family vaults, as several of the ollse or pigeonholes are the property of the same person, purchased, as stated on the inscriptions, to receive the ashes of himself and his descendants, and often enclosed in a larger and deco rated recess. The greater number of the inscriptions appear to belong to the time of Tiberius, as many of his household are named — amongst others two officers of the Library of Apollo on the Palatine ; a certain Sotericus, librarian of the Greek Library in the Portico of Octavia. A curious record, placed by a Roman lady, named Synoris Glaucoma, over the ashes of her favourite dog, whose portrait accompa nies the inscription, in which he is de signated the pet or delictum of his mis tress. A very touching one in verse, of Julia Prima to her husband, &c. The paintings in this Columbarium are well preserved. The larger urns or sarco phagi on the floor were placed here long after the original construction of the columbarium. Out of this Colum barium open a series of dark subterra nean chambers, excavated in the tufa rock, containing graves of slaves, it being of rare occurrence to find that persons of that class were burned, their bodies being thrown pelemele into pits near the sepulchres of their masters; or, according to others, of Gnostic Chris tians. The triangular space comprised be tween the Via Appia and Via Latina, and the more modern city wall of Au relian, appears to have been occupied by numerous Columbaria, forming a vast necropolis. That called the C. of Campana, from its discoverer, near the Porta Latina, contains several well- preserved inscriptions of the time of the early Caesars. The key of it is kept at the ch. of San Giovanni Evangelista close by. Columbarium of Lucius Arruntius, &c. — Between the Porta Maggiore and the temple of Minerva Medica are two Columbaria situated one on each side of the road which follows the di rection of the ancient Via Prsenestina. That on the 1. hand was constructed (a.d. 6) by L. Arruntius, the consul, to receive the ashes of his freedmen and slaves, as we learn by an in scription found over the entrance Sect. I. § 17. AQUEDUCTS. 81 in 17?u. It has 2 small subterra nean chambers with cinerary urns. The other is supposed to have be longed to different plebeian families : it consists of a single chamber, decorated with stucco ornaments on the walls, and a painted ceiling. It has been preserved entire, and the urns and the inscriptions may still be seen in their original positions. Columbarium called of the Freedmen of Augustus, on the Appian, beyond the ch. of Domine quo vadis, now partly con cealed by the Vagnolini vineyard. It had 3 chambers, one of which con tained 6 rows of niches for urns. Seve ral inscriptions were found, but most of them, together with the sculptures and marbles, have been removed. 3 plates of this Columbarium have been published by Piranesi. This also ap pears to have been a burying-place in common, so that there is no authority for the name given to it. Columbarium of the Liberti of Livia, also situated on the Via Appia, immedi ately beyond the latter, and on the same side of the road, in the Benci vineyard. It was discovered in 1726, and was justly considered by an tiquaries as a valuable relic ; but it has been recently destroyed, and no trace of it now exists above ground. It is well known by the works of Gori and Piranesi ; the latter published upwards of 300 inscriptions found among the ruins, most of which may now be seen in the Vatican and Ca pitoline museums. Columbaria in the Villa Pamfili- Doria. — An extensive series of sepul chral chambers were discovered a few years ago in the grounds of this villa. In one of them are paintings of the story of Niobe and her children, of Hercules and Prometheus, &c. Of some since filled up, the inscriptions found in them have been collected and preserved. Several tombs, marking the line of the Via Aurelia, were found near this Columbarium, and in the grounds of the neighbouring Villa Corsini, now included in the Pamfili- Doria grounds. § 17. Aqueducts. No monuments of ancient Rome are at once more picturesque and stupen dous than theAqueducts,and many tra vellers are more impressed with the grandeur of their long lines of arches, bestriding the plain of the Campagna, than with any ruins within Rome itself. The following are the princi pal ancient aqueducts, arranged in their chronological order. With the excep tion of the two first, some vestiges above ground of all the others still remain. 1 . Aqua Appia, the oldest aqueduct of Rome, constructed by Appius Clau dius Csecus, B.C. 311, after the com pletion of his Appian Way. It had its source near Rustica, on the Via Colla- tina, about 5 m. from the city ; in later times another aqueduct, the A. Au gusta, was added to it, and their united streams entered Rome near the Porta Maggiore 27 feet below that of the Anio Vetus, from which they were carried along the Cselian and Aventine as far as the Porta Trige- mina, near the modern Arco Salaro, and were entirely subterranean, except a portion 60 paces long near the Porta Capena. Its waters were distributed over the oldest quarters of the city, and in the Transtiberine region. Some por tions of the watercourse may be seen in the quarries, in the Vigna Torlonia, and on 1. of road leading to Sta. Sabba, as well on the eastern declivity of the Aventine, and below the ch. of Santa Sabina; it is high and pointed. The whole length of the Appian aqueduct was 11,190 paces; and its water, from its sources being in the volcanic dis trict, must have been good, similar to the modern Acqua Vergine. 2. Anio Vetns, constructed by Man- lius Curius Dentatus, B.C. 272. It had its source near Augusta, in the valley of the Anio, 20 m. beyond Ti voli, and pursued a course of 43 m. to the walls of Rome: only 221 paces were above ground. The only frag ment now visible is beneath the level of the road, and under the A. Marcia, outside of tbe Porta Maggiore. 3. Aqua Marcia, brought to Rome by Q. Marcius Rex, the praetor, B.C. 145. Its source was lj m. beyond Ro- viano, near the 37th m. on the Via Sublacensis, at the modern La- ghetto di Santa Lucia. It was sub- E 3 82 § 17. AQUEDUCTS. Rome, terranean except for the last 6 m. This latter portion is that magnificent line of arches near the roads to Frascati and Albano, which still forms so grand a feature in the Campagna; but there are reasons for believing that a great portion of the existing arches date from the time of Augustus. The arches now standing are built of peperino. Near the Arco Furba, on the road to Frascati, this aqueduct is crossed by the Claudian, which runs parallel to it for some distance. The specus may be seen in the ruined fragment form ing part of the Aurelian wall outside the Porta Maggiore ; and its fine chan nel, 6 ft. in height, built of massive blocks of travertine, within and under the Aurelian wall, and a short way on the rt. of the Porta S. Lorenzo, with the diverticulum by which a part of its waters were thrown into the Rivus 'Herculaneus, which, after being dis tributed over the Cselian hill, ended near the Porta Capena.* * At the moment we are writing, a gigantic project for bringing the waters of the Aqua Marcia to Rome, under the name of Aqua Fia, is com pleted. Commencing at the sources of the Aqua Marcia, near Roviano, in the Laghetto of Santa Lucia, and sources of La Serena, 33 miles from Rome, it will be carried by means of a canal excavated in the rock, and through numerous tunnels parallel to the Anio, to Tivoli, ending in a reservoir opposite that town at Quinti- liolo, and from here by an immense syphon, formed by iron tubes, to Rome, which it will enter at the Porta Pia; the length of this syphon being 21 kil., or Hi m. Descending from Quintiliolo, which is 184 kil., or 600 feet above the sea, it will reach the Anio, where it crosses that river at an elevation of 65, to rise to Porta Pia, the level of which is 257 feet, from which it will be distributed over the highest districts of the capital. The object of this new aqueduct, the work of a joint-stock company, is to supply many parts of the city to which the present watercourses do not reach. The total length from its source will be 33 Eng. miles, of which about one-half is in iron tubes, the quantity brought in the first instance being 3000 oncie, or 30,000 cubic metres, which can be doubled or tripled. One of the advantages of the water will be its low temperature, 47° at its source. It is the coolest in Rome ; its quality is excellent. The height of the sources is 31S metres, or 1020 Eng. feet above the sea. It will be extensively employed for irrigation of the many market-gardens, on the Quirinal, Caslian, and Esquiline hills. The water was brought into Rome on Sept. 10, 1870, in the presence of the Pope, a few days before being driven from his throne by Victor Emmanuel. It supplies the fine fountain near the rly. stat. 4. Aqua Tepula, constructed by Cneius Servilius Caepio, and L. Cassius Longinus, B.C. 126. It had its source near the 10th m. on the Via Latina, and was carried into Rome over the Marcian arches. The specus may be seen at the Porta S. Lorenzo and P. Maggiore, between those of the Marcian and the Julian. 5. Aqua Julia, commenced by Augus tus, b.c. 34, and so called in honour of Julius Caesar. Its source was 2 m. beyond that of the Tepulan, and the water was conveyed in a channel con structed above that aqueduct, and con sequently upon the Marcian arches. The. specus may also be seen in the city wall, outside and on the 1. of the Porta Maggiore, from where it passed to the Porta S. Lorenzo, on which is the inscription of the time of Augustus. 6. Aqua Virgo, constructed by Augus tus, A.u.c. 735. It derives its name from the tradition that its source was pointed out by a young girl to some soldiers. The sources may be seen at the Torre Salona, between the 7th and 8th m. on the Via Collatina. Its course is sub terranean, with the exception of about 1240 paces, of which 700 are on arches. It was restored by Nicholas V., under the name of the Aequo. Vergine, and is still in use. Its water is the best in Rome, and supplies 13 large fountains, including the Fontana di Trevi, those of the Piazza Navona, of the Piazza Farnese, and of the Barcaccia of the Piazza, di Spagna, furnishing daily a. mass of 66,000 cubic metres of water; it enters Rome on the Pincian hill, near the Porta Pinciana. A portion of the aqueduct which conveyed the Aqua Virgo from the Pincian to the Campus Martius may be seen in the house No. 1 2 of the Via del Nazzareno, near the Piazza del Bufalo, before it reaches the Fontana di Trevi. The arches and piers are completely buried in the ground, but on the face of the aqueduct is an interesting inscription stating that it was repaired by Claudius in a.d. 52, after having been ruined (distur- batos) by Caligula in the construction of his wooden amphitheatre. It is probable that the line of the aqueduct at this point crossed a public thoroughfare. Sect. I. § 17. AQUEDUCTS. 83 7. Mjua Alsietina, constructed by Augustus on the rt. bank of the Tiber, for the use of his Naumachia. It was afterwards restored by Trajan, who introduced a new stream collected from sundry sources along the hills on the W. side of the Lake of Bracciano, the ancient sources of the Augustan aqueduct being round the smaller, La- eus Alsietinus, the modern Lago di Maitlgnano, W. of Baccano. It was about 30 m. long. It was restored by the popes, and especially by Paul V., and now enters the Trastevere, under the name of the Acqua Paola. It supplies the fountains in the piazza of St.Peter's, the Fontana Paolina, and turns nu merous flour-mills on the declivity of the Janicule, one of its principal uses both in ancient and modern times. This water is the least pure in Rome ; its sources having diminished in quantity, that of the Lake of Bracciano were admitted to supply their place. 8. Aqua Claudia, commenced by Caligula, a.d. 36, and finished by the emperor Claudius, a.d. 50. Its source was at the 38th m. on the Via Sublacensis, near the village of Agosta. It pursued a course of more than 46 m. in length. For about 36 m. it was subterranean, and for the remain ing 10 m. it was carried over arches. Of this magnificent work, a line of arches no less than 6 m. in length still bestrides the Campagna, forming the grandest ruin outside the walls of Rome. It was repaired by Septimius Severus and by Caracalla. Sixtus V. availed himself of its arches in con structing his aqueduct of the Acqua Felice, which has its source near the Osteria de' Pantani, on the road to Palestrina, and supplies the Fontana de' Termini, near the Baths of Diocle tian, of the Tritone in the Piazza Bar berini, the fountain of Monte Cavallo, and 24 others in different parts of the modern city. 9. Anio Novus, brought to Rome also by Claudius. Its source was of all the waters the most distant, being near the 42nd m. on the Via Subla censis. It was the longest of all the aqueducts, no less than 62 m., of which 48 were underground ; it entered the I city at a higher level than all the others, on the 1. bank of the Tiber. The specus may still be seen above that of the Aqua Claudia over the arches of the Porta Maggiore. From what precedes it will be seen that few modern cities were better sup plied with water than ancient Rome ; out of the 8 aqueducts on the 1. bank of the Tiber, of which we have spoken, only one is still in use, the Aqua Virgo. The great supply was on this side, from sources in the upper valley of the Anio ; but as all these, even to the present day, contain a certain quantity of calcareous matter in solution, it is probable the aqueducts became choked up with travertine concretions and rendered useless. This was cer tainly the case with the Anio Novus, as we see at the Villa Braschi near Tivoli (see p. 382). In consequence of the sources from which the modern aqueducts of Rome derive their sup plies being situated in the volcanic strata, the water is excellent and salubrious, and unattended with detri ment, from deposit or incrustation, to the aqueducts which convey it. Such are the Acque Vergine, Felice, and Paola.* The aqueducts that entered Rome on the 1. bank of the Tiber, with the single exception of the Acqua Vergine, did so nearly at the same spot, between the Porta Tiburtina (St. Lorenzo) and Porta Prsenestina (Maggiore), the highest point on this side of the cityf (about 190 ft. * According to Cavallieri, the celebrated hy draulic engineer, the quantity of water that enters Rome in 24 hrs. by the 3 great aqueducts is, by Cub. Metres. The Acqua Vergine . . 155,271 Acqua Felice 21,638 Acqua Trajana or Alsatina. 80,871 257,775 cub. met., or about 9 millions Eng. cub. feet, of which 1,050,000 are diverted for turning mills, the rest being employed for domestic purposes ; thus giving nearly 3400 cub. feet, or 2400 Imperial gallons, for each individual in habitant, irrigation, &c. This does not include the Acqua Pia. f It may prove useful to insert here a table of the greatest height (above the sea) of the prin cipal hills about Rome : — Eng. Ft. Janiculum, at S. Pietro in Montorio . 197 Esquiline, at Sta. Maria Maggiore . .187^ Palatine, ch. of Sta. Buenaventura . 170£ Viminal, at St. Lorenzo Pane-Pernis . 170^ Cselian, floor of St. Giovanni in Late- rano 168^ 84 § 18. TARPEIAN ROCK. above the sea), and superior to the levels of the Cselian, Capitoline, and Quirinal hills, which rendered the dis tribution of their waters over the whole of the ancient city possible. The point to which all these aqueducts converged was known by the name of Spes Vetus, from a temple of Hope, which dated from the 3rd century of Rome. The following table shows the rela tive levels of the bottom of the chan nels of the several ancient aqueducts, where they entered Rome, at the Porta Maggiore:- EngFe^ Aqua Appia . . . . . 121 Anio Vetus 149 Aqua Marcia 173 Aqua Tepula . . .... 182 Aqua Julia 191 Aqua Claudia . . . . 203 Anio Novus ... ... 212 Aqu Pia, at Porta Pia . . . 257 § 18. Miscellaneous. Tarpeian Rock. — On the south-eastern summit of the Capitoline hill, which faces the Palatine and is now called the Monte Caprino, antiquaries place this celebrated rock. It is surrounded by buildings, and covered with the garden annexed to the Instituto Archae- ologico and the German hospital : the soil has accumulated in such consider able quantities at the base as to have taken away considerably from its height ; but enough remains to mark " the steep Tarpeian, fittest goal of Treason's race, The promontory whence the Traitor's leap Cured all ambition." Childe Harold. There are two precipices, however, which lay claim to this celebrated name. If we enter from the Piazza di Ara Cceli, by the Via di Tor di Specchi, the first lane on the 1. will bring us to an open space, in which one front of the precipice may be seen, beneath the Palazzo Caffarelli. On the other side of the hill, towards the Pala tine, in the gardens of the German Hospital, on the Monte Caprino, we Eng. Ft. Capitoline, floor of ch. of Ara Cceli . . 159 Pincian, floor of ch. of la Trinita de' Monti 1591 Quirinal, ground floor of Pope's Palace. 157i Aventine, floor of ch. of St. Alessio . 155i Vatican, floor of the Basilica of St. Peter's . . . . 99 MAMERTINE PRISONS. Rome. may look down on another abrupt pre cipice which cannot be much less than 70 feet in height. Both consist of a mass of red volcanic tufa, belonging to the most ancient igneous productions of the Latian volcanoes. The latter is the cliff more generally shown to stran gers as the Tarpeian Rock. The cus tode of the Instituto Archseologico keeps the key of the garden ; it may also be seen from below in the court yard of the house No. 18 in the Via di Monte Tarpeo. This certainly answers better to the descriptions of ancient authors ; for Dionysius tells us that Cassius was hurled down from the pre cipice in view of the people assembled in the Forum, which could only have occurred on tbis side of the hill. Mamertine Prisons, on the declivity of the Capitoline, near the Arch of Septimius Severus. This celebrated prison is one of the few existing monu ments of the kingly period : it is built in the most massive style of Etruscan architecture. It was begun .by Ancus Martius, stnd enlarged by Servius Tul lius, from whom it took the name of Tullian. It consists of two chambers or cells : the upper one is still below the level of the surrounding soil. Livy mentions the prisons of Servius Tul lius (lib. i. cap. 33) as: — "Career ad terrorem increscentis audacice, media urbe, imminens Foro, cedificatur." In another passage, in his 34th book, describing the punishment of Quintus Pleminius, he says, " In inferiorem demissus car- cerem est, necatusque." The first of these passages at once sets at rest all question as to the locality, and the latter distinctly points to the lower of the 2 prisons which are still visible. If any other evidence were required, it is supplied by Sallust; and we think that it is hardly possible to imagine any ancient description more applicable than that in which this historian relates the circumstances attending the fate of the accomplices of Catiline: — "In the prison called the Tullian," he says, "there is a place about 10 feet deep, when you have descended a little to the 1. : it is surrounded on the sides by walls, and is closed above by a vaulted roof Sect. I. 18. MAMERTINE PRISONS. 8,3 of stonl. The appearance of it, from the filth, the darkness, and the smell, is terrific." To these interesting state ments we will simply add that the pecu liar style of their construction proves a very high antiquity, approaching to that which we see in the Etruscan monuments of Caere, and of other sites anterior to the Roman period. The prison consists of 2 chambers, evi dently excavated in the tufa rock, and placed one over the other. They are situated beneath the ch. of S. Giu seppe dei Falegnami. A flight of steps leads to the upper chamber, into which a modern door has been opened for the accommodation of the devotees, who are attracted by the Church tradition which has given pecu liar sanctity to the spot. This cham ber is about 16 feet high, 30 feet in length, and 22 in breadth ; and is con structed with large masses of stone, without cement. This is considered the most ancient portion of the prison, and the original construction of An- cus Martius. The lower cell, called the Tullium, from Tullius, the spring in it, or from having been con structed by Servius Tullius, forms nearly two-thirds of a hollow globe 20 ft. in diameter, originally a lautumia or quarry. Its sides are formed, like those of the upper chamber, on 3 of its sides, of large masses of volcanic tufa, arranged in courses, converging to wards the roof, not on the principle of an arch, but extending horizontally to a centre, as in some of the tombs at Tarquinii and Caere. The fourth side is excavated in the tufa rock. On exa mining the stones which form the roof of this lower chamber, it will be seen that they are held together by strong clamps of iron. In the centre of the vault is a circular aperture, through which it is supposed the prisoners were let down into it. It is hardly possible to imagine a more horrible dungeon. Ad mitting that these are the Mamertine prisons, and of which there can be little doubt, it must have been in this cell that Jugurtha was starved to death ; that Vercingetorix, the Gaulish chief, was murdered by order of Julius Caesar ; that Cethsegus, Lentulus, with other accomplices of Catiline, were strangled by order of Cicero ; that Sejanus, the minister of Tiberius, perished a.d. 31 ; and that Joras, the son of Simeon, the Jewish general, was put to death in the reign of Vespasian. Some of the older antiquaries doubted whether these were the Mamertine prisons, inasmuch as their small size was insufficient for the requirements of the population. The well-known passage of Juvenal, referring to those happy times under the kings and tri bunes when one place of confinement was sufficient for all the criminals of Rome, is considered to allude to this prison : — " Felices proavorum atavos, felicia dicas Sfficula, qui quondam sub Rcgibus atque Tli- bunis Viderunt uno contentam carcere Romam." Sat. iii. We know from Livy that the de cemvir Appius Claudius constructed a prison for plebeian offenders near the Forum Olitorium ; and other au thorities might be adduced which strengthen the opinion that the Mamer tine prisons were peculiarly set apart for political prisoners, and were con sequently not disqualified by their size for the necessities of the state. The researches of Mr. J. H. Parker, how ever, and of other antiquaries ( 1 870-7 1 ), have shown that these dungeons led into much more extensive prisons, capable of holding hundreds of prisoners. The following inscription on the frieze upon the front, c vibivs . c. F. rvfinvs M. COCCEIVS . NERVA . COS . EX. S. C, records the names of the 2 consuls by whom the prison is supposed to have been repaired, in a.d. 22. The Scalse Gemonise, from which the bodies of executed criminals were exposed to the people, were in front of the prison, to wards the Forum. The tradition of the Church has consecrated this prison as the place in which St. Peter was con fined in the reign of Nero. The pillar to which he was bound is shown, to gether with the fountain which mira culously sprang up to enable him to baptize his gaolers, Processus and Martinianus ; although it is distinctly alluded to by Plutarch in the excla- 86 § 18. CLOACA MAXIMA. Rome. mation of Jugurtha when thrown into this horrid cell. On the side of the descent into the lower prison a curious relic is pointed out to the visitor, — the pretended impression of St. Peter's head on the surface of the rock, driven against it by his jailors, to recognise which requires no small degree of de votional credulity. The upper cham ber is fitted up as an oratory, dedicated to the Prince of the Apostles. The ch., dedicated to S. Giuseppe de' Fa- legnami, the patron of the Roman joiners, was built in 1539. Cloaca Maxima, a subterranean Canal, extending from the Velabrum to the river, well known as the opening of the great common sewer of ancient Rome into the Tiber. This stupendous work is a lasting memorial of early Roman architecture. It is still as firm as when its foundations were laid, and is one of the very few monuments of Rome whose antiquity has never been assailed by the scepticism of an tiquaries. It was built by Tarquinius Priscus, the 5th king of Rome, 150 years after the foundation of the city, for the purpose of draining the marshy ground between the Palatine and the Capitoline hills. Livy records the fact in the following passage : — " Infima urbis loca circa Forum, alias- que interjectas collibus convalles, quia ex plants locis haud facile evehebant aquas, cloacis e fastigio in Tiberim ductis sic- cat." — Lib. i., c. 38. Strabo says that a waggon laden with hay might have passed through the cloaca in some places ; and Dionysius describes it as one of the most striking evidences of the greatness of the Romans in his time. Pliny speaks of it with admira tion, and expresses surprise that it had endured for 700 years, unaffected by earthquakes, by the inundations of the Tiber, by the masses which had rolled into its channel, and by the weight of ruins which had fallen over it. Nearly 25 centuries have now passed over since its foundation, and this noble struc ture of the Roman kings still serves its original purpose. There are few other remains of ancient Rome which present so many elements of durabi lity, and promise more to excite the admiration of posterity for an equal lapse of centuries. The archway where it opens on the Tiber is composed of 3 concentric courses of large blocks of that variety of peperino called gabina, from Gabii near which it was quarried, put together without cement. The borings executed by Lenotte give this archway a height of at least 12 feet where it enters the Tiber ; but the surface of the river rarely sinks more than 4 feet below the keystone. The interior of the sewer is constructed of red volcanic tufa, similar to that of the Tarpeian rock. Many of the blocks are more than 5 feet in length, and nearly 3 feet in thickness. The length of the cloaca, from opposite the ch. of St. Giorgio in Velabro to the Tiber, is 800 feet; it forms two bends, passes beneath the facade of the ch. of Sta. Maria in Cosmedin, and nearly under (a little to the rt. of) the round Temple of Mater Matuta (Vesta). The engi neer who executed the work had pro vided for the cleansing of the channel, 1 st, by a considerable fall ; 2ndly, by the oblique angle of 60° at which it enters the Tiber ; and 3rdly, by the gradual contraction of the diameter from 13 to W\ feet. In consequence of the rise in the level of the bed of the Tiber, this channel has been choked up to at least 2-5ths of its original height. The part which may be most con veniently examined is near the arch of Janus, following a narrow alley opposite the ch. of S. Giorgio in Velabro ; from this point the channel is entire throughout its course to the river, into which it opens at a short distance below the Ponte Rotto. This portion was the only part covered in originally, an open drain extending to it, from the site of the Lake of Curtius, the Forum, and the Velabrum. At a subsequent period this open canal was also arched over, as we may see under the floor of the Basilica Julia, where it still serves for its original purpose. Close to its extremity, in the Velabrum, issues a large mass of beautifully clear water, called the Acqua Argentina, still held in repute by the lower orders as a remedy in certain maladies: it is considered by some antiquaries as one Sect. I. § 18. AGGER AND WALLS OF SERVIUS TULLIUS. 87 of the sources of the Lake of Juturna, and as the spot where Castor and Pol lux were seen watering their horses after the battle of the Lake Regillus. Higher up is another, issuing from beneath an arch of brickwork : it is used as a washing-place by the poor inhabitants of the quarter. Lower down the river, and between it and the site of the Pons Sublicius, are openings of two other cloaca, but less remarkable for their size and masonry, and still farther, but on the opposite bank, inserted in a massive wall, but covered with brushwood, three re markable out-jutting corbels, in the form of lions' heads, in a very ancient style, pierced with holes or channels, which most probably served to attach the chains by which the entrance of the river was closed. These curious remains were recently rediscovered by J. H. Parker, F.S.A., of Oxford. They were, however, long known. The Porto dei Leoni, not Porta, as incorrectly given to the quay on the opposite side of the river, the great horse-slaughter house of Rome deriving probably its name from them. Quay called the Pulchrum Littus. — At the mouth of the Cloaca Maxima we may trace the commencement of a line of wall, built of large blocks of travertine, which evidently formed a quay or embankment on the 1. bank of the Tiber. There is also a fine por tion of it where the Marrana empties itself into the Tiber. Its construction would seem to refer it to the period of the kings, and it may possibly be iden tified with the xaXn xxrn, or the " pul chrum littus," mentioned by Plutarch in his description of the house of Ro mulus. A road led from this quay to the Scalm Caci, at the foot of the Pala tine, by which the Palace of the Caesars was reached from' the Ara Maxima of Hercules (see p. 31). Agger and Walls of Servius Tullius. — In the grounds of the Villa Barberini, on the 1. of the Via di Porta Pia, among the ruins of the gardens of Sallust, are vestiges of this celebrated rampart, which may be traced in the rear of the Baths of Diocletian, through the Cen tral Rly. Stat, to behind the ch. of St. Antonio on the Esquiline, and the arch of Gallienus, which stands nearly on the site of the Porta Esquilina, The most perfect fragment is that in the Central Rly. stat.,* at the foot of the Monte de Giustizia, on which stands a colossal statue of Rome. At this angle of the Servian circumval- lation the Agger is of considerable width; the portion of it laid bare consisting of several tiers of massive blocks of Alban peperino, some weigh ing as much as 5 tons, bound together by iron clamps, this gigantic wall forming its outer facing towards the country : unfortunately a part of this magnificent specimen of Roman con struction was destroyed to extend the rly. stat. in 1 863 ; the ditch which protected the Agger was 100 ft. wide and 30 ft. deep ; they have subse quently had Imperial constructions placed on them, or rather outside the wall. 3 other very fine portions of the walls of Servius Tullius have been discovered in the Vigna Torlonia or of the Collegio Romano on the S. side of the Aventine, not far from the ch. of Sta. Prisca (opposite to which is the gate leading to them), composed of large quadrilateral blocks of tufa quarried near the spot; these blocks are laid alternately long and cross ways, as in Etruscan constructions ; the portion laid open is 15 yards high, and supports a fine arch in the Etruscan character. Another fragment on the declivity of the Aventine, overlooking the Tiber, in the gardens below thech. of Sta. Sabina,, the continuation of the Servian wall towards the Porta Trige- mina, and a third in 1865, on the sum mit of the Quirinal, upon which was subsequently built the vast substruction in rubble work of the Temple of the Sun, raised by Aurelian.t * Permission will be obligingly granted by the officials at the rly. stat. to visit this unique specimen of Roman masonry, in the interval of the arrival and departure of the trains. f The Agger of Servius Tullius, which formed a portion of the walls of kingly Rome, raised by that sovereign (a.u.c. 200), about 5£ centuries before Christ, for the purpose of defending Rome on the side of its rivals the Sabincs, extended from the Porta Esquilina, now marked by the Arch of Gallienus near Sta. Maria Maggiore, to the declivity of the Quirinal hill, which forms § 18. PORTICO OF OCTAVIA. Rome. Campus Sceleratus. — Near the point where the Strada di Porta Pia is in tersected by the Via del Maccao stood the Porta Collina of the walls of Ser vius Tullius ; outside which, in the space between it and the Aurelian wall, antiquaries place the Campus Scele ratus, the spot where the Vestal virgins who had broken their vows were buried alive, like the nuns in the middle ages. House and Gardens of Sallust. — The gardens of the Vigna Barberini, bor dering on the Via di Porta Pia, enclose some interesting objects. Besides a fragment of the Agger of Servius Tul lius, we find here the ruins of the Temple of Venus Erycina, the Circus Apollinaris, and vestiges of the palace of the historian Sallust, subsequently a favourite retreat of Nero, Nerva, Aurelian, and other emperors. It was destroyed by Alaric, and little now remains but traces of vast sub structions. Extensive ruins, belonging probably to the carceres of the Circus, exist in the neighbouring villa Ri- gnano-Massimo (see p. 56). 1 he upper part of the gardens of Palust are occu pied by the handsome Villa Spithover, belonging to the well-known bookseller. the southern boundary of the valley in which subsequently was erected the Circus of Sallust, In every other portion of the Servian circum- vallation the wall was carried more or less along the declivities of the six hills on the rt. bank of ihe Tiber; but in the space between the Porta Esquilina and P. Collina, it was necessary to adopt a different mode of defence, as it ran along the tableland or neck that connected the Viminal and Quirinal hills. The Agger, pro perly speaking, was a huge embankment, faced on Us outer side or towards the country by a massive wall of gigantic blocks of Alban pe perino, the portion best preserved being tbat alluded to above as existing within the precincts of the Central Rly. stat. This portion, of only 4 tiers of blocks, formed the outer facing, inside of which extended the Agger or earth-work, composed of a mass of volcanic tufa, dus out upon the spot in making the fosse, the width of which is 100 ft. at the foot of the wall: according to Dionysius, the length of the Agger was 7 stadii, which agrees with the measurement from the Arch of Gallienus to the N. extremity of the Agger near the Porta Salaria, s}5 paces (passl Geomctrici). From subsequent excavations the upper courses of the Servian wall are seen to consist of smaller blocks of a pumician tufa, similar to that of the walls of Servius Tullius, on the Aventine and Quirinal ; this probably belongs to the additions made by Tarquinius Superbus ; the width of the wall here is about lo£ ft. Portico of Octavia, erected by Augustus on the site of that raised by Quintus Metellus, and near the theatre of Mar cellus, as a place to which the spec tators might retire for shelter in case of rain. Of all the edifices of ancient Rome, the architectural disposition of none is better established, a consider able portion of the plan of it and of the temples within its area being preserved on the general one of the ancient city (the Pianta Capitolina) preserved in the Capitoline Museum. It formed a parallelogram, surrounded by a double arcade, supported by 270 columns, enclosing an open space, in the centre of which stood the temples of Jupiter and Juno, erected by the Greek architects Batracus and Saurus. The ruins which now remain are situated in the Pescheria, the modern fish-market, one of the filthiest quarters in Rome, and formed the en trance to the portico. This vestibule had 2 fronts, each adorned with 4 fluted columns and 2 pilasters of white marble of the Corinthian order, supporting an entablature and pediment. The portico was destroyed by fire in the reign of Titus, and was restored by Septimius Severus and Caracalla. Two columns of the fragment now remaining disap peared in this fire, and the restorations of Septimius Severus may easily be re cognised in the large brick arch con structed to supply their place, as a support to the entablature. The 2 columns and pilasters in the front, the 2 pillars and 1 pilaster in the inner row, with those in the vestibule of the ch. of St. Angelo, towards the portico, are sufficient to show the magnificence of the original build ing: the style of the existing ruin is grand and simple, and the pro portions and details are in every respect worthy of the Augustan age. On the architrave is an inscription recording the restorations by Septimius Severus and Caracalla. The portico is celebrated by ancient writers for its Greek and Latin libraries, which stood behind the temples, and its valu able collections of statuary and paint ing, among which were the Cupid of Praxiteles, a Venus by Phidias, an Sect. I. § 18. PRAETORIAN CAMP. 89 iEscul^fius and a Diana by Praxiteles, &c. Most of these doubtless perished in the fire ; but the group of Mars and Cupid, in the Villa Ludovisi, is said to have been discovered within the pre cincts of the portico. Santo Bartoli tells us that the Venus de' Medici was also found here, in opposition to those writers who state that it was dis covered among the ruins of Hadrian's villa near Tivoli. In a house of the neighbouring street are 3 columns and a portion of the Cella of the Temple of Jupiter, which stood, as we have seen, in the area of the portico. And in the dirty alley on the 1. of the ruins in the Pescheria, are 2 Corinthian columns built into a wall, which formed a part of the portico itself. Vivarium and Spoliarium. — At the base of the Cselian hill, extending from behind the Passionist Convent of S. Giovanni e Paolo to the Coliseum, are some extensive ruins, which are con sidered to belong to the ancient Viva rium, the place in which the wild ani mals were kept before they were turned into the arena. Beneath the convent are vaults consisting of 8 immense arches built of blocks of travertine: there are 2 stories, the lower is now underground. The older antiquaries gave them the name of Curia Hostilia, but their position and arrangement sufficiently justify their modern name ; more recent authors, however, suppose that these arches were destined to support the area in which was placed the Temple of Claudius, now occupied by the garden and grounds of the convent. Beneath are some subter ranean caverns, excavated in the tufa as quarries in ancient times, which still retain marks of the workmen's tools. Praitorian Camp, built by Sejanus, the minister of Tiberius, outside the walls of Servius Tullius. It is now occupied by the Villa Maccao, an extensive vineyard which has lately been pur chased from the Jesuits by Duke Grazioli, situated at a short distance behind the Baths of Diocletian, and soon to be converted into a new quarter by speculators. The camp was dismantled by Constantine, and 3 sides of the enclosure were in eluded by Aurelian in his new wall. To this circumstance we are indebted for the preservation of the exact form of this celebrated camp, memorable as the scene of the principal revolutions which occurred during the first 3 cen turies of the Christian era. The vine yard no doubt conceals much of the ancient foundations; but considerable remains of the corridors are still visi ble, retaining in some places their stucco and even their paintings. Se veral inscriptions have been found from time to time, confirming the his tory of the locality. There were four gates leading into the principal one towards the city, that on the N. side is the best preserved, although the space between the angular towers on each side of it was walled up by Aurelian. The circuit of the 3 sides, which now forms a quadrangular pro jection in the city walls, is 5400 feet. A part of the southern side has been roughly rebuilt with large and ir regular stones, probably the work of Belisarius. There is a coin of Claudius, on which the camp is re presented. On this site has been recently erected a huge barrack in the form of a Parisian railway station, to lodge the modern Praetorians of Rome ; in an adjoining vineyard have been discovered some inscriptions to soldiers, natives of Pannonia, who belonged to the Praetorian bands in the time of the Gordians. Reservoir or Nymphwum, called the Trophies of Marius, a picturesque ruin at the head of the Via Maggiore, so called from the trophies now on the balustrade in front of the Capitol which were found here. There is no longer any doubt that the name of Marius has been erroneously applied both to the trophies themselves and to this ruin. Winckelmann regards the style of the sculpture of these trophies as indicating the age of Domitian; and more recent writers have referred them and the building on which they stood to an age as late as Alexander Severus. Excavations made a few years back by the French Academy fully confirmed the opinion of Piranesi, that this ruin was either a reservoir for 90 § 18. FOUNTAIN OF EGERIA. Rome. the waters of one of the aqueducts, or a fountain. He found by measure ment that the building must have served as the reservoir of the Aqua Julia, which was conveyed from the Porta S. Lorenzo by an aqueduct, of which 6 arches are still standing. Fa- bretti considered that it must have served likewise as one of the reser voirs of the Claudian aqueduct, whose waters were brought to it from the Porta Maggiore. Nibby refers the building to the times of Septimius Severus, who restored the aqueducts, but agrees with the other authorities in considering it a reservoir. From the works of art which have been found in the vicinity, the monument appears to have been richly decorated. Fountain of Egeria, placed by the more ancient Roman antiquaries, in opposition to all classical authority, in the valley of the Almo, now called the Valle Caffarella, about 2 miles from the Porta di San Sebastiano, and at the foot of the height on which rises the so-called Temple of Bac chus, midway between the modern high road to Naples and the Via Appia. It is a mere vaulted chamber with niches, hollowed out of a steep bank, and built chiefly of reticulated brickwork, which appears from its con struction not to be older than the reign of Vespasian. It has 3 niches on each of the sides, and a larger one at the extremity, with a recumbent male statue much mutilated. The inte rest of the spot was derived from the tradition that it represents the sacred fountain where Numa held his nightly consultations with the nymph, and which he dedicated to the Muses in order that they might there hold counsel with Egeria. The authority for this tradition is the following passage from Livy (lib. i. 21) : — " Lucus erat quern medium ex opaco specu fons pcrenni rigabat aqua : quo quia se perstepe Numa sine arbitris, velut ad cougressurn dcai, inferebat, Camcenis eum lucum sacravit ; quod earura ibi consilia cum conjuge sua Egeria essent."The older antiquaries implicitly be lieved the_ tradition, and a few years grotto on the first Sunday in May to drink the water, which they considered to possess medicinal virtues, being im pregnated with carbonic acid gas, like many issuing from the volcanic strata. For nearly 3 centuries the name pre vailed almost without contradiction ; but since the recent excavations it has been generally admitted that, even if the valley of the Almo had been the Egerian valley described by Juvenal, the grotto is merely one of several similar cells that formerly existed in it, and that it had been converted either into a nymphseum or a bath. The discovery of small reservoirs around the spot, the remains of con duits still traceable in walls of the chamber, of passages for collecting the water from the springs in the hill behind, and the copious supply which continually flows through the build ing, give great weight to this opinion. Perhaps the best explanation of the poetical legend is that expressed so beautifully by Lord Byron : — " Egeria I sweet creation of some heart Which found no mortal resting-place so fair As thine ideal breast : whate'er thou art Or wert,— a young Aurora of the air. The nympholepsy of some fond despair ; Or, it might be, a beauty of the earth, "Who found a more than common votary there, Too much adoring ; whatsoe'er thy birth, Thou wert a beautiful thought, and softly bodied forth. " The mosses of thy fountain still 'are sprinkled With thine Elysian water-drops ; the face Of thy cave-guarded spring with years un- wrmkled, Reflects the meek-eyed genius of the place, Whose green, wild margin now no more erase Art's works ; nor must the delicate waters sleep, Prison'd in marble, bubbling from the base Of the cleft statue, with a gentle leap The rill runs o'er, and round fern, flowers, and ivy creep, " Fantastically tangled : the green hills [grass Are clothed with early blossoms, through the The quick-eyed lizard rustles, and the bills Of summer-birds sing welcome as ye pass; Flowers fresh in hue, and many in their class, Implore the pausing step, and with their dyes Dance in the soft breeze in a fairy mass ; The sweetness of the violet's deep blue eyes, Iuss'd by the breath of heaven, seems colour'd by its skies." From the fragments of various kinds which have been found among the ruins, it appears that the grotto was 5 " " j~~..j ..una, ii, .i|i|n,u^ iii.ii 1,11c glUUU Wtl& since the Romans still repaired to the | paved with green porphyry, and the Sect. I. § 19. OBELISKS. 91 walls Qg*rered with slabs of marble. The ruin is now clothed with ever greens, the Adiantum capillus waves over the fountain, and long tufts of creeping plants hang over its roof. The quiet seclusion of the spot is well cal culated to make the traveller desire to believe in the truth of the tradition. The real position of the Egerian valley was immediately outside the ancient Porta Capena, and within the present city walls, on the 1. of the modern municipal nursery - grounds, and the ch. of S. Sisto, which stands nearly upon the site of the grove of the Camaenee, alluded to by Livy, and by Juvenal in the well-known verses of the 3rd Satire (see p. 367). § 19. Obelisks. There are no monuments of Rome of such undoubted antiquity as the stupendous obelisks which the em perors brought from Egypt as memo rials of their triumphs, and which the popes have so judiciously applied to the decoration of the modern city. Sixtus V. has the honour of having first employed them for the latter purpose. The obelisk of the Vatican was the first raised, and Fontana was con sidered by the engineers of the 16th century to have accomplished a task not far short of a miracle when he successfully placed it on its pedestal. The following is a list of the obelisks in the order of their erection on their present sites. Obelisk of the Vatican, erected by Sixtus V. in 1586. This obelisk is one solid mass of red granite without hieroglyphics. It originally stood in the circus of Nero, and is therefore now not far from its original situation. It was brought from Heliopolis to Rome in the reign of Caligula. The account of its voyage is given by Pliny, who says that the ship which carried it was nearly as long1 as the left side of the port of Ostia. Suetonius confirms the immense magnitude of this ship, by telling us that it was sunk by Claudius to form the foundation of the break water he constructed at the mouth of his new harbour, near the mouth of the Tiber and the modern Porto. The obelisk previous to its removal stood nearly on the site now covered by the sacristy of St. Peter's. It is the only one in Rome which was found in the place it was originally intended for, which may account for its being still entire. As stated above, it was placed on the present pedestal in 1586 by the celebrated architect Domenico Fontana, who has left a. highly in teresting account of the operation. No less than 500 plans had been sub mitted to the pope by different engin eers and architects, but the result fully justified his choice. 600 men, 140 horses, and 46 cranes were employed in the removal. Fontana calculated the weight of the mass at 963,537 Roman pounds ; the expense of the operation was 37,975 scudi; the value of the machinery and materials, amounting to half this sum, was presented to Fontana by the pope as a reward for his successful services. The operation is described at length by the writers of the time, and a fresco representa tion of it is painted on one of the walls in the Vatican library. Many curious facts connected with the pro cess are mentioned : — the ceremony was preceded by the celebration of high mass in St. Peter's ; the pope pro nounced a solemn benediction on Fon tana and the workmen ; and it was ordered that no one should speak during the operation, on pain of death. It is stated, however, that the pro cess would have failed from the ten sion of the ropes, if a man named Bresca had not infringed the order by calling upon the workmen to wet the ropes. The common story of tra vellers attributes this suggestion to an English sailor, but there is not the slightest ground for the statement. The Bresca family, indeed, still possess the privilege of supplying St. Peter's with palm-leaves (which are brought from the vicinity of Bordighera, in Li- guria, whence the Brescas originally came) on Palm Sunday, which Sixtus V. granted them as an acknowledgment of the service of their ancestor on this occasion. The height of the shaft, exclusive of all the ornaments, is 82 ft. 6 in. ; the height of the whole from the ground to the top of the bronze cross is 132 ft. 2 in. ; its weight 92 § 19. OBELISKS. Rome. 300 tons ; the breadth of the base is 8 ft. 10 in. The cross at the top was renewed in 1740, when some relics of our Saviour were deposited in a per foration made to receive them. The following is the dedication by Caligula to Augustus and Tiberius, which is still visible on 2 sides of the lower part of the shaft: — divo. caes. divi . ivlii . F. AVGVSTO — . TI. CAESARI DIVI . AVC. F. — AVGVSTO SACRVM. Obelisk of S. Maria Maggiore, erected also in 1587 by Fontana, and during the pontificate of Sixtus V. It is of red granite, broken into three or four pieces, and is without hieroglyphics. It was one of a pair which originally flanked the entrance to the mausoleum of Augustus. They are supposed to have been brought from Egypt by Claudius, a.d. 57. The present one was disinterred by Sixtus V. ; the other was placed on the Monte Ca vallo by Pius VI. The height of this obelisk, without the ornaments and base, is 48 ft. 5 in. Obelisk of the Lateran, the largest obe lisk now known, erected also by Fon tana, in the pontificate of Sixtus V., in 1588. It is of red granite and covered with hieroglyphics. It was brought from Heliopolis to Alexandria by Con stantine the Great, and was removed to Rome by his son Constantius, who placed it on the spina of the Circus Maximus. It was conveyed from Alexandria to the mouth of the Tiber in a vessel of 300 oars, and was landed 3 m. below Rome, a.d. 357. Accord ing to Champollion's interpretation of the hieroglyphics upon it, it comme morates Thothmes IV. of the 18th dynasty, the Mceris of the Greeks. When it was discovered it was lying in the Circus Maximus, broken into 3 pieces. In order to adapt these frag ments, it was necessary to cut off a portion of the lower part; notwith standing this, it is still the loftiest obelisk in Rome. The height of the shaft, without the ornaments and base, is 105 ft. 7 in. ; the whole height from the ground to the cross is 141 ft. The sides are of unequal breadth at the base : two measure 9 ft. 8J in., the other two only 9 ft. ; one of these sides is slightly convex. The weight of the shaft has been estimated at 455 tons. Obelisk of the Piazza del Popolo, erected by Fontana in 1589, during the pontificate of Sixtus V. It is of red granite, broken into 3 pieces, and is covered with hieroglyphics. This is one of the most interesting obelisks which . have been preserved. It stood before the Temple of the Sun at Heliopolis, where, according to Cham- pollion, it was erected by one of the two brothers Maudouci and Susirei, who reigned before Rhamses II. : whilst Lepsius attributes it to Meneptha, only 1500 years before our era, and Ungarelli to Rhamses III. (Sesostris). It was removed to Rome by Augustus after the conquest of Egypt, and placed in the Circus Maximus (b.c 23). It had fallen from its pedestal in the time of Valentinian, and remained buried until 1587, when Sixtus V. removed it to its present site. The height of the shaft, without base or ornaments, is 78} feet; the entire height from the ground to the top of the cross is about 112 feet. On the sides facing the Porta del Popolo and the Corso is the following inscription, show ing that Augustus renewed the de dication to the Sun : — imp. caes. DIVI . F. AVGVSTVS — PONTIFEX . MAXIMVS — IMP. XII. COS . XI. TRIB . POT . XIV. — AEGVPTO . IN. POTESTA- TEM . — POPVLI . ROMANI . REDACTA. — SOLI . DONVM . DEDIT. Obelisk of the Piazza Navona, erected in 1651 by Bernini, in the centre of his great fountain, during the pontificate of Innocent X. It was formerly called the Pamphilian Obelisk, in honour of the pope's family name. It is of red gra nite, covered with hieroglyphics, and is broken into 5 pieces. It was found in the Circus of Romulus, near the Via Appia, and from the style of the hieroglyphics is now supposed to be a Roman work of the time of Domitian. It formed the subject of a long and elaborate dissertation by Father Kir- cher, who endeavoured to show that it was one of the obelisks of Heliopolis, but this conjecture has been exploded by modern researches. In its present position it stands on an artificial rock- Sect. I. § 19. OBELISKS. 93 work aBbut 40 ft. high. The height of the shaft itself is 51 ft. Obelisk of tlie Piazza della Minerva, erected in 1667 by Bernini, in the pontificate of Alexander VII. It is a small obelisk of Egyptian granite with hieroglyphics indicating that it dates from the reign of Hophres, a king of the 26th dynasty; it is supposed to have been one of a pair which stood in front of the temple of Isis and Serapis in the Campus Martius, whose site is now occupied by the gardens of the Doinenican convent of the Minerva. Both these obelisks were found here in 1665; one was erected in front of the Pantheon; the other,the one now before us, was placed by Bernini in the worst taste on the back of a marble elephant, the work of ErcoleFerrata. Its height without the base is about 17 ft. Obelisk of the Pantheon, erected in 1 71 1 by Clement XL It is a small obelisk of Egyptian granite, with hieroglyphics of the time of Psammeticus II. , the fellow of the preceding one. It stands in the midst of the fountain of the Piazza, to which it was removed by Clement XI. Its height without the base is about 1 7 feet. - Obelisk of the Monte Cavallo, erected in 1786, according to the inscription, in the 12th year of Pius VI.'s pontificate, by Antinori. It is of red granite, with out hieroglyphics, and is broken into 2 or 3 pieces. It formerly stood in front of the mausoleum of Augustus, being the fellow of that in front of S. Maria Maggiore, and was consequently brought from Egypt by Claudius, a.d. 57. The height of the shaft, without the base, is 45 feet. At the sides of this obelisk stand the Colossal Equestrian Group which have been called Castor and Pollux by recent antiquaries. They are undoubtedly of Grecian workmanship, and, if we could believe the Latin inscription on the pedestals, they are the work of Phidias and Praxiteles. But as they were found in the Baths of Constantine, there is good reason to doubt the truth of the in scriptions; the statues are evidently centuries older than the age of Con stantine, and no inscriptions of his time can be worth much as authority. Canova entertained no doubt of their Greek origin, and admired their fine anatomy and action. Obelisk of the Trinita dei Monti, erected also by Antinori in 1789, during the pontificate of Pius VI., an obelisk of red granite, with hieroglyphics. It formerly stood in the Circus of Sallust. The height of the shaft, without the base and ornaments, is about 48 feet. Obelisk of Monte Citorio, also erected in 1792 by Antinori, an obelisk of red granite, covered with hieroglyphics, and broken into 5 pieces. This is one of the most celebrated of these monuments : it has been illustrated with great learning, and has been admired for the remarkable beauty of the hieroglyphics which remain. According to Lepsius' interpretation of these hieroglyphics, it was erected in honour of Psammeticus I., of the 26th dynasty, 6^ centuries before Christ. It was brought to Rome by Augustus, from Heliopolis, and placed in the Campus Martius, where, as we learn from the well-known description of Pliny, it was used in the construc tion of a celebrated gnomon or sun-dial. It was first discovered, underground in the Piazza dell' Impresa, in the time of Julius II. , but was not removed until that of Pius VI. ; the pedestal, with the inscription, is situated beneath one of the chapels on the W. side of the ch. of S. Lorenzo in Lucina. The fragments of the Aurelian column, which was found near where this obelisk now stands, were employed to repair it, and to form the pedestal. The height of the shaft without the base and ornaments is 72 feet ; the height of the whole, from the ground to the top of the bronze globe, is 134} feet. Obelisk of Monte Pineio, sometimes called della Passeggiata, from being placed in the centre of the handsome public promenade on the Pincian, in 1822, by Pius VIL: a small granite obelisk, with hieroglyphics, found near the ch. of Santa Croce in Geru- salemme, on the site of the Circus Varianus. According to Champollion's interpretation of the hieroglyphics, it was erected in honour of Antinous, in the name of Hadrian and Sabina. The height of the shaft without the base is 30 feet. 94 § 20. HOUSE OF COLA DI RIENZO. Rome. There is a small obelisk in thegrounds of the Villa Mattei, on the Caelian, found near the Capitol. It is partly ancient, and was found, with that in the Piazza della Minerva, on the site of the temple of Isis. It bears an hieroglyphical inscription of the time of Psammeticus II. § 20. Buildings of the Middle Ages. House of Cola di Rienzo, called by the people that of Pilate, and formerly described as the Torre di Manzone, a remarkable brick building of 2 stories, at the end of the Vicolo della Fonta- nella, near the Temple of Fortuna Virilis, and the E. side of the Ponte Rotto. This strange and incongruous structure is covered with fragments of columns and ancient ornaments of various periods, capriciously thrown together, without any regard to the principles of taste or architectural uni formity. . On the side fronting the V. della Fontanella is an arch, supposed to have been once a doorway, over which is a long inscription, which has given rise to more than the usual amount of antiquarian controversy. It is in the worst style of the old rhyming verse, of which the last 5 lines may be quoted as an example : — " Primus de primis magnus Nicolaus ab imis, Erexit patrum decus ob renovare suorum, Stat Patris Crescens matrisque Theodora nomen, Hoc culmen clarum caro de pignore gessit, l.)avidi tribuit qui Pater exhibuit." At the upper part of this inscription are numerous initial letters, which would be an inexplicable enigma to any but a Romau antiquary ; the Padre Gabrini, however, has endeavoured to show that they represent the titles of Cola di Itienzo, the last of the Roman tribunes : the following explanation of a part of them may be received as a specimen of the whole : — n. t. s. c l. p. t. f. g. r. s. nic. d. D. T. D. D. F. s. Nicolaus, Tri- bunus, Severus, Clemens, Laurenti (Libe rator 1), P. (Patriae''), Teuthonici, Filius, Gabrinius, Romce, Senator, Nicolaus, declit, domum, totam, Davidi, Dilecto, Filio, suo. This conjecture assumes that the long Latin inscription refers also to Cola and to the bequest of the house to his son David. Whatever may be thought of the ingenuity or imagination of the antiquary, it is cer tain that this pompous phraseology corresponds with the titles assumed by Cola di Rienzo in his official acts. In that extraordinary document, dated from the Piazza of the Lateran, Aug. 1, 1347, citing the emperors and electors to appear before him, which will be found quoted by Zeferino Re, in his curious work ' La Vita di Cola di Rienzo,' published at Forli in 1828, the Tribune styles himself, " Nicola severe e clemente, liberatore di Roma, zelatore dell' Italia, amatore del mondo intero, Tribuno augusto." On the archi trave of one of the windows is the following inscription, ascribed by the antiquaries to Petrarch: — adsv . ro- MANIS . GRANDIS . HONOR . POPVLIS. It can hardly be expected that the true meaning of these inscriptions can ever be much more than mere matter of conjecture; and it would be an un profitable task to pursue the subject further. It will be sufficient to state that recent writers consider the architecture to belong to the 11th century, and gather from the inscrip tions that Nicholas, son of Crescen- tius and Theodora, fortified the house and gave it to David his son; that this Creseentius was the son of the celebrated patrician who roused the people against the Emperor Otho III. ; and that the building may have been inhabited by Cola di Rienzo 3 cen turies later (1347). Others sup pose that it was destroyed 1313 by Arlotto degli Stefaneschi, and rebuilt by the Roman tribune in its present form. The popular tradition is in favour of this opinion, and there is no doubt that the interest of the building is entirely derived from its presumed connection with the "Spirto gentil" of Petrarch, to whom the author of ' Childe Harold ' has given additional immortality : — " Then turn we to her latest tribune's name. From her ten thousand tyrants turn to thee, Redeemer of dark centuries of shame — The friend of Petrarch— hope of Italy — Rienzi I last of Romans ! While the tree Of Freedom's wither'd trunk puts forth a leaf, Even for thv tomb a garland let it be — Sect. I. § 20. TOR DE' CONTI. § 21. FOUNTAINS. 95 The forum's champion, and the people's chief — Her new-born Numa thou— with reign, alas ! too brief." The style of the edifice and its de corations marks a period when art was at its lowest ebb ; and the strange collection of ornaments and fragments of antiquity cannot be regarded as an illustration of the taste and character of the times of, or contemporaneous with, "the last of the Roman Tri bunes." Torde' Conti, a huge brick tower on the W. declivity of the Quirinal, in the street of the same name and near the Piazza delle Carette, erected by Nicholas I. in 858, and rebuilt in 1216 by Inno cent IIL, both popes being of the Conti family, from whom it derives its name. It formed, like the other towers of the same kind, a place of safety and defence during the troubled times of the middle ages. It was in jured by the earthquake of 1348, and was partly pulled down by Urban VIII. The view from the summit will well repay the fatigue of the ascent. This tower, or what now remains of it, is supposed to stand upon, or very near the site of the temple of Tellus or of the Earth, which was situatednear the house of Spurius Cassius, the Consul, who in B. c. 485 was hurled from the Tarpeian rock, and in later times of Pompey. Torre delle Milizie, on the Quirinal, at the head of the Via Magnanapoli, and within the grounds of the con vent of Sta. Caterina da Siena. This large brick tower has been called by the ciceroni the Tower of Nero, and pointed out to unsuspecting travellers as the place from which Nero beheld the fire of Rome. We know from Tacitus that the emperor witnessed the destruction of the city from the Esquiline, and the masonry of this building shows that it is of mediaeval period. Its construction is generally attributed to Pandulfo della Suburra senator of Rome, in 1210, although some writers suppose that it dates from the reign of Boniface VIIL, nearly a century later (1303), and to stand on a site occupied by the barracks in which the troops of Trajan were quartered. There are two well-preserved spe cimens of mediaeval towers, although smaller, in the same neighbourhood, on the W. declivity of the Quirinal ; one, the Torre del Grillo, at the corner of the Via del Grillo, behind the Forum of Augustus ; and the second in the Via delle 3 Cannelle, which appears to have belonged to the Colonnas from their armorial column upon it ; built into one side of it are some good and ancient architectural sculptures, placed here by a certain Gualdus Arimini, as stated on an inscription beneath. Both these towers are square, of fine brick work, and surmounted by a gallery or projecting parapet, the supports of which, in white marble, still remain. There are 2 similar towers, but less well preserved, behind the ch. of S. Martino Monti (p. 1 84) , in the valley between the Esquiline and Viminal hills, and several mutilated ones in the Trastevere ; that at the N. extremity of the Ponte Sisto bears the name of the Pierleone family. The one called the Tor di Forti, attached to a stronghold of the Counts of Anguil- lara, near the Piazza de San Crisogono, dates from the 13th or 14th century. § 21. Fountains. La Fontana Paolina, on the Janicu lum, the most abundant, and perhaps the most imposing, of all the Roman fountains. It was erected by Paul V. in 1612, from the designs of Fontana: both their names are commemo rated in that of the fountain. The elevation of the fountain is an imita tion of the facade of a church ; it has 6 Ionic columns of red granite, taken from the Temple of Minerva, which stood in the Forum Transitorium (see p. 41). Between the columns are 5 niches, 3 large and 2 smaller. In the larger ones 3 cascades fall into an immense basin, and in the smaller niches are 2 dragons, the armorial bearings of the pope, each of which pours out a stream of water into the same basin. The water is collected from springs about the lake of Brac ciano, and conveyed to Rome by the aqueduct called the Acqua Paola, which, after forming this noble foun tain, serves to turn the chief part of the city flour-mills, situated in the streets between the Janicule and the 96 § 21. FOUNTAINS. Rome. Tiber. The style of the fountain is not in the best taste, but the effect of the water can hardly be surpassed. The view from this fountain, which is now reached by an excellent road leading to S. Pietro di Montorio and the Porta di S. Pancrazio, over the whole of Rome and the Campagna, is very fine. Fontana del Tritone, the fountain in the Piazza Barberini, which now oc cupies the site of the Circus of Flora. It is composed of 4 dolphins supporting a large open shell, upon which sits a Triton, who blows up the water from a conque shell, which he holds in his hands, to a great height. It is from the design of Bernini. Fontana delle Tartarughe, in the Piazza of the same name, near the Palazzo Mattei, so called from the 4 tortoises which ornament it. It has 4 bronze youthful figures in very grace ful attitudes ; one supports a vase, from which the water flows into the basin. The design, by Giacomo della Porta, has been incorrectly attributed to Ra phael by Passavant ; the figures are by Taddeo Landini. Fontana di Trevi, the largest and most celebrated of the modern fountains in Rome, was erected by Clement XII. in 1735, from the designs of Niccolb Salvi. The water is made to fall over artificial rocks ; above which, in a large niche in the centre of the facade, is a colossal figure of Neptune standing in his car drawn by horses and attended by Tritons. It was scarcely to be ex pected that the very questionable taste of this design would escape the cri ticism of Forsyth : he calls it " another pompous confusion of fable and fact, gods and ediles, aqueducts and sea- monsters ; but the rock- work is grand, proportioned to the stream of water, and a fit basement for such architecture as a castel d' acqua required, not for the frittered Corinthian which we find there." The Tritons, horses, &c, and other figures of the fountain, are by Pietro Bracci. The facade of the Palazzo Conti, against which it stands, has 4 columns and 6 pilasters of tra vertine, of the Corinthian order ; between the columns are statues of Salubrity and Abundance, sculptured by Filippo Valle ; above them are 2 bas-reliefs,— one by Andrea Bergondi, representing Marcus Agrippa, who brought the Aqua Virgo into Rome; the other by Giovanni Grossi, repre senting the young virgin who pointed out the springs to the soldiers of Agrippa, as mentioned in the account of that aqueduct (seep. 82). Between the pilasters are 2 rows of windows. The whole is surmounted by an attic, bearing an inscription in honour of Clement XII. Close to the fountain in the Via della Stamperia Camerale is the entrance to the Sala Dantesca, a large elegant hall, where public concerts, balls, and entertainments are frequently given during the winter. Fountains of the Piazza Navona. — This piazza contains 3 fountains. Those at the extremities were erected by Gregory XIII. The Triton holding a dolphin by the tail is by Bernini ; but there is nothing in any of the figures to call for particular notice. The central fountain, which supports the obelisk brought from the Circus of Romulus, was raised by Bernini in the pontificate of Innocent X. It forms a circular basin, 73 feet in di ameter, with a mass of rock in the centre, to which are chained 4 river- gods, representing the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile, and the Rio della Plata. In grottoes pierced in the rock are placed a sea-horse on one side, and a lion on the other. The figures and the design of the whole fountain are almost below criticism ; Forsyth calls it " a fable of iEsop done into stone." The Piazza Navona has been already mentioned as the site of the ancient Circus Agonalis, or Circus Alexandri. During the summer months it is in undated twice a week for the amuse ment of the people, when the appear ance of the piazza recalls an ancient Naumachia. Fontana della Barcaccia, in the Piazza di Spagna, in the form of a boat, from which it derives its name. It was designed by Bernini. It has little beauty to recommend it. The Piazza di Spagna is more celebrated for the magnificent flight of steps leading to the Trinita de' Monti, begun in the reign of Innocent XIII., at the expense of a French nobleman, Geuffier, and Sect. I. § 22. PIAZZAS. 97 finishedjp 1725, from funds bequeathed by him for that purpose. Fontana delV Acqua Felice, more generally called the Fontana de' Ter mini, near the Baths of Diocletian. Under the former name it has been celebrated by Tasso in some of his finest Rime. This fountain was de signed by Domenico Fontana. It has 3 niches. In the central one is a colossal statue of Moses striking the rock, by Prospero da Brescia, who is said to have died of grief at the ridi cule excited by his performance. In the side niches are figures of Aaron, by Giobattista della Porta, and of Gideon, by Flaminio Vacca. The fountain was formerly adorned by 2 ancient Egyptian lions, which have been replaced by modern ones in grey marble ; the originals, of black granite, have been removed to the Egyptian Museum at the Vatican. They were found in front of the Pantheon. Fountains in the Piazza of St. Peter's. — These magnificent but simple vases are better calculated to give general pleasure than any other fountains in Rome. They were designed by Carlo Maderno. The water is thrown up to a height of about 18 feet, and falls back into a basin of Oriental granite, 1 5 feet in diameter ; it runs over the sides of this into an octagonal basin of travertine, about 28 feet in diameter, forming a mass of spray, upon which the sun at times paints the most beautiful rainbows. The height of the jet above the pavement of the piazza is 64 feet. Fountains of the Piazza Farnese. — Like the fountains in the Piazza of St. Peter's, these are simple jets falling into magnificent oblong granite basins, each 17 feet long, found in the Baths of Caracalla. Fountain of the Ponte Sisto, placed op posite the Via Giulia, near the bridge from which it takes its name. This pretty fountain was constructed by Paul V., from the designs of Fontana. It is formed of 2 Ionic columns, sup porting an attic. From an aperture in the large niche the water falls in a body into a basin below. Fontana del Campidoglio, at the foot of the flight of steps leading to the [Borne.] Palace of the Senator on the Capitol. It was erected by Sixtus V., and is ornamented with 3 ancient statues. That in the centre is a sitting marble figure of Minerva, draped with por phyry, found at Cori. The colossal recumbent figures at the side represent the Nile and the Tiber. They were found among the ruins of the Baths of Constantine on the Quirinal, and are referred to the time of the Antonines. Fountain of the Quirinal, erected by Pius VII., a simple but pretty jet, flowing from a noble basin of grey Oriental granite, 25 feet in diameter, which was found in the Roman Forum, and brought to Monte Cavallo, to complete the decorations in front of the Papal palace. This Piazza has been much lowered, and a better approach effected by diminishing the declivity of the Via della Dataria, during the works for which immense substructions in rubble-work of Aure- lian's Temple of the Sun, extending into the Colonna Gardens, and a portion of the Servian Wall, were discovered. Along this ascent have been placed in niches several Senatorial statues, and a huge modern inscription in honour of Pius IX., and of the ephemeral municipal authorities under whom the works were conducted. § 22. Piazzas. The Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Na vona, Piazza del Popolo, and all the great squares in front of the principal churches, are sufficiently described in the account of the monuments or public buildings from which they de rive their names. The only one which remains to be noticed is the least at tractive, though not the least cele brated, the Piazza di Pasquino, at the angle of the Braschi Palace, near the Piazza Navona. It derives its name from the well-known torso called the statue of Pasquin, a mutilated fragment of an ancient one found here in the 16th centy., and considered to repre sent Menelaus supporting the dead body of Patroclus. Notwithstanding the injuries it has sustained, enough remains to justify the admiration i F S A£. ±"1AZ,ZAS. Rome. has received from artists. Baldinucci, in his Life of Bernini, tells us that it was considered by that sculptor the finest fragment of antiquity in Rome. It derives its modern name from a tailor called Pasquino, who kept a shop opposite, which was the rendez vous of all the gossips of the city, and from which their satirical wit ticisms on the manners and follies of the day obtained a ready circula tion. The fame of Pasquin is per petuated in the term pasquinade, and has thus become European ; but Rome is the only place in which he flourishes. The statue of Marforio, which for merly stood near the Arch of Septi mius Severus, was made the vehicle for replying to the attacks of Pasquin, and for many years they kept up a constant fire of witand repartee. WhenMarforio was removed to the museum of the Capitol, the Pope wished to remove Pasquin also ; but the Duke di Braschi, to whom it belonged, would not give his consent. Adrian VI. attempted to arrest his career by ordering the statue to be burnt and thrown into the Tiber ; but one of the pope's friends, Lodo- vico Suessano, saved him, by sug gesting that his ashes* would turn into frogs, and croak more terribly than before. The modern Romans seem to regard Pasquino as part of their social system : in the absence of a free press, he has become in some measure the organ of public opinion, and there is scarcely an event upon which he does not pronounce judgment. Some of his sayings are extremely broad for the atmosphere of Rome, but many of them are very witty, and fully main tain the character of his fellow-citizens for satirical epigrams and repartee. On the visit of the emperor Francis of Austria to Rome, the following ap peared: — " Gaudium urbis, Fletus pro- vinciarum, Risus mundi." On the elec tion of Pope Leo X., in 1503, the following satirical acrostic appeared, to mark the date mccccxl. : — " Multi cceci cardinales creaverunt cacum deci- mum (X) Leonem." During a bad har vest in the time of Pius VI., when the pagnotta, or loaf of 2 bajocchi, had decrease^ considerably in size, the passion of the pope for the inscription which records his munificence on so many of the statues in the Vatican was satirised by the exhibition of one of these little rolls, with the inscrip tion " Muniflcentia Pii Sexti." The proceedings of Pius VI. were fre quently treated by Pasquino with con siderable severity. When the sacristy of St. Peter's was completed the fol lowing inscription was placed over the principal door : — " Quod ad Templi Vaticani ornamentum publica vota flagita- bant, Pius VI. fecit," &c. Pasquin's reply was as follows : — " Publica I mentiris ; Non publica vota fuere, Sed tumidi ingenii vota fuere tui." Canova exhibited his draped figure of Italy for the monument of Alfieri during the French invasion ; Pasquin immediately exhibited this criticism: — " Canova questa volta 1' ha sbagliata, Ha 1' Italia vestita, ed e spogliata." Soon after certain decrees of Napoleon had been put in force, the city was desolated by a severe storm, upon which Pasquin did not spare the em peror : — " L'Altissimo in su, ci manda la tempesta, L'Altissimo qua giu, ci toglia quel che resta, E fra le Due Altissimi, Stiamo noi malissimi." His satires frequently consist of dia logues, of which the following are fair examples : — " I Francesi son' tutti ladri. Non tutti— ma Buonaparte." On the marriage of a young Roman, called Cesare, to a girl called Roma, Pasquin gave the following advice :— " Cave, Caisar, ne tua Roma Respublica fiat ! " On the next day the man replied, " Casar imperat!" Pasquin, however, would not be outdone, and answered, " Ergo coronabitur." His distich on the appointment of Hol- stenius and his two successors, as librarians of the Vatican, is histor- rically interesting. Holstenius had abjured Protestantism, and was suc ceeded in his office by Leo Allatius, a Chian, who was in turn succeeded by a Syrian, Evode Assemani. Pasquin Sect. 1. § 23- PROMENADES. § 24. BASILICAS. 99 noticed these events in the following lines i*. " Projfuit hosreticus. Post himc, schismaticus. At nunc Praest Turca. Petri bibliotheca, vale 1 " Another remarkable saying is recorded in connection with the celebrated bull of Urban VIIL, excommunicating all persons who took snuff in the churches of Seville. On the publication of this decree Pasquin appropriately quoted the beautiful passage in Job, " Wilt thou break a leaf driven tq and fro ? and wilt thou pursue the dry stubble ?" Contra folium, quod vento rapitur, osten- dis potentiam tuam, et stipulam siccam persequeris 1 § 23. Promenades, Public Walks, or Passeggiate. The municipal authorities of Rome have done much of late years towards increasing and ornamenting these places of public resort. The most beautiful and frequented is that in the Monte Pincio, occupying all the level space between the Muro Torto and the gardens of the Villa Medicis. These gardens are ap proached by a fine drive rising from the Piazza del Popolo, constructed in the reign of Pius VII. On this ascent has been placed as a fountain an im mense urn in Egyptian granite, which formed a fountain in the Piazza di Venezia, but originally found in a vine yard beyond the Porta S. Lorenzo ; it is one of the largest masses of this material in Rome, measuring more than 850 cubic feet; and by another from the ch. of la Trinita dei Monti. They are handsomely laid out in flower-gardens, drives, and walks. In the centre is the obelisk, discovered in the Circus of Varianus, noticed at p. 93, and dedicated by Hadrian to Antinous. From the terraces over looking the Piazza del Popolo we descry one of the finest prospects of Rome, with the Vatican and Jani- cule hills in the background. It is from here that the celebrated Giran- dola, pr fireworks on Easter Monday and on the evening after the festival of St, Peter's, are now exhibited. This promenade is the most fashionable and frequented at Rome, especially during the fine afternoons of winter and spring. The Passeggiata di S. Gregorio, near the ch. of that name and the Coliseum, is planted with mimosas, and affords an agreeable place of re sort for the inhabitants of the neigh bouring poorer quarters during the heat of the summer months. . Connected with the public walks, may be mentioned the municipal nur sery grounds (Seminanzo Comunale), nearly opposite the Thermse of Cara calla, for the purpose of raising plants to ornament the gardens and thorough fares. They are near the ch. of S. Sisto, on the site of the gardens of the Camena;, and close to the real locality of the fountain of Egeria (see pp. 90 and 367). § 24. Basilicas. There are 5 great Basilicas, and 8 lesser ones, in Rome and its imme diate vicinity. The first are called Patriarchal, in honour of the patriarchs of the Catholic Church, viz. of Rome itself, of Constantinople, Alexandria, Antioch, and Jerusalem ; and are, the Vatican or St. Peter's, the Lateran or St. John's, the Liberian or Santa Maria Maggiore, the Ostian or San Paolo, and San Lorenzo, the two latter being without the walls. Of the minor basilicas, the most remarkable are the Sessorian or Santa Croce in Gerusa- lemme, the Appian or S. Sebastiano, the Constantinian or SS. Apostoli, the Eudoxian or S. Pietro in Vincula, &c. The five principal basilicas we shall describe first, as constituting the most important ecclesiastical edifices in the capital of Christianity ; the minor ones will be included in our description of the churches properly speaking. Many of the first churches were un doubtedly those edifices which, during the Pagan rule, had served as courts of justice, or seats of the public tri bunals, and which as such bore the name of Basilicas. On the establish ment of Christianity, or, more properly speaking, when its exercise was per mitted in public, after the Peace of the Church under Constantine, the F 2 100 § 24. BASILICAS^ST. PETER'S. Rome. churches which were erected expressly for the new worship appear to have been built on the plan of these pre existing edifices. Their design was at once simple and grand: the form was oblong, consisting of a nave and two side aisles, which were separated by lines of columns ; arches sprang from these columns, supporting the high walls which sustained the wooden roof. These walls were pierced with windows, by which the whole building was lighted. In most instances, the tribune, or absis, was raised above the level of the nave, and its vault covered with mosaics. In front there was an enclosed square called the quadripor- ticus, having a colonnade round 3 of its sides; both of which dispositions may be seen in the interesting ch. of San Clemente (see p. 151). The Roman basilicas have undergone nu merous additions and alterations in modern times, and many of them have lost their characteristic features; but they still retain their ancient rank as metropolitan churches. The old ch. of St. Peter's had all the peculiarities of the basilica; and for this reason the present building preserves the same title, although all that characterises the original edifice have disappeared. We shall commence our description of the churches with this most mag nificent of Christian temples, which the great historian of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire has so truly designated as " the most glorious struc ture that ever has been applied to the use of Religion." 1. St. Peter's. — As early as a.d. 90, St. Anacletus, bishop of Rome, who had received ordination from St. Peter himself, erected an oratory on the site of the present structure, to mark the spot where the remains of the Apostle were deposited after his crucifixion on the hill of S. Pietro in Montorio, and where so many of the early Christians had suffered martyr dom. In 306 Constantine the Great founded a basilica here, which con tinued from that time to be the great attraction of the Christian world. The facade of this basilica may be seen in Raphael's fresco of the Incendio del Borgo ; and the interior is introduced in that representing the coronation of Charlemagne, and still better on a paint ing in the chapel of Sta. Maria in Portico in the subterranean ch. In the time of Nicholas V. (1450) ruin menaced it, and that pope had already begun a new and more extensive building on the plans of Leon Battista Alberti and Bernardino Rossellini, when the pro gress of the works was arrested by his death. Paul II. continued the design ; but it was advancing very slowly at "the accession of Julius II. , who determined, with his well-known energy, to resume the works on a grander and more systematic plan. Vasari tells us that he was animated to the task by the design for his tomb, which Michael Angelo had just com pleted. He accordingly secured the assistance of Bramante, who entered upon his duties in 1503, and began by pulling down a part of the walls which had been erected by his predecessors. His design was a Greek cross, with an hexastyle portico, and an immense cu pola in the centre, to be supported upon 4 colossal piers. In 1506 Julius II. laid the foundation of Bramante's building, under the pier against which the statue of S. Veronica now stands. The 4 piers, and the arches which spring from them, were the only parts completed before Bramante's death in 1514. In the previous year Julius had been succeeded by Leo X. The new pontiff appointed as his architects Giu- liano di Sangallo, Giovanni da Verona, and Raphael, who has left some very interesting letters relating to his ap pointment. Sangallo, however, died in 1517, and Raphael was carried off pre maturely in 1520. Raphael's plan, which may be seen in Serlio's work on architecture, was a Latin cross ; but neither he nor his colleagues had done much more than strengthen the 4 piers, which had been found too weak before the death of Bramante. Leo X. then employed Baldassare Pe- ruzzi, who, despairing of being able to meet the expense of Raphael's plan, changed the design from a Latin to a Greek cross. The death of Leo in 1 521 checked the progress of the works, Sect. I. § 24. st. peter'! 101 and his two immediate successors were unable to contribute in any material degree towards the execution of the design, so that Peruzzi could do little more than erect the tribune, which was completed during the pontificate of Clement VII. The next pope, Paul IIL, on his accession in 1534, employed Antonio di Sangallo, . who returned to the plan of a Greek cross, and altered the arrangement of the whole building, as may be seen from his model, which is preserved in the Vatican, but he died before he could carry any of them into effect.* The pope appointed Giulio Romano as his successor ; but here again the same fatality occurred, and the death of that artist in the same year prevented his entering on the engagement. The work was then committed to Michel Angelo, at the time in the 72nd year of his age. The letter conferring this appointment is still preserved. The pope gave him unlimited authority to alter, or pull down, or remodel the building, pre cisely on his own plans. Paul III. died in 1549, and his successor, Julius IIL, in spite of all opposition from con temporary artists, confirmed the ap pointment of Michel Angelo. Several letters exist, in which the illustrious artist describes the annoyances to which he was subjected in the pro gress of his task; and one written to him by Vasari is well known, in which he advises him to "fly from the ungrateful Babylon, which was un able to appreciate his genius." Michel Angelo immediately returned to the design of a Greek cross, enlarged the tribune and the' 2 transepts, strength ened the piers for the second time, and began the dome on a plan different from that of Bramante, declaring that * The models of Sangallo's church and of Michel Angelo's cupola are preserved in an apartment on the roof of St. Peter's, over the chapel of St. Gregory. It is entered from the stairs leading to the roof of the Basilica. To visit them a special permission from the Economo, or head of the Administration of the Fabrica di S. Pietro, now Monsignore Theodoli, is necessary, and will be granted on making a written appli cation to that dignitary. Sangallo's design of a Greek cross would have been preceded by a heavy vestibule, flanked by two detached bell-towers or campaniles. he would raise the Pantheon in the air. The drum of the dome was com pleted when the great artist was carried off in 1563, at the age of 89. The chief peculiarity of his dome consisted in being double, leaving a consider able space between the outer and inner walls — a plan which was fortunately adopted by his successors, who finished it on the precise plans and measure ments whichhehadlaiddown. Another part of his design was to make the front a Corinthian portico like that of the Pantheon, which, combined with the ground plan in the form of a Greek cross, would have allowed the whole mass of dome to be visible from the piazzabelow. Three years after his death, in 1566, Pius V. appointed Vignola and Pirro Ligorio as his successors, with strict injunctions to adhere in every parti cular to the designs of M. Angelo. Vignola erected the 2 lateral cupolas, but neither he nor his colleague lived to complete the dome. This honour was reserved for Giacomo della Porta, who was appointed under Gregory XIII. ; he brought it to a successful termination in 1590, in the pontificate of Sixtus V., who was so anxious to see it finished, that he devoted 100,000 gold crowns annually to the work, and employed 600 workmen upon it night and day. When the dome was finally completed it was calculated that 30,000 lbs. weight of iron had been used in its construction. Giacomo della Porta continued to be employed by Clement VIIL, and adorned the in terior of the dome with mosaics. Up to his death, in 1601, the plans of Michel Angelo had been faithfully followed so far as the works had then ad vanced, and the only portions re maining to be added were the facade and portico. In 1605 Paul V. was elected pope, and, being desirous of see ing the whole building completed during his reign, pulled down all that was then standing of the old basilica, and laid the foundation of the front as it now stands, in 1608. He employed Carlo Maderno, the nephew of Fon tana, as his architect, who abandoned the plan of Michel Angelo, and re turned to the Latin cross, as originally 102 § 24. BASILICAS — ST. PETER'S. Rome. designed by Raphael. He also built the facade, which all critics concur in condemning as ill suited to the ori ginal design. Its great defect is that it conceals the dome, which is so much hidden by the front, that there is no point of the piazza from which it can be combined in its full pro portions with the rest of the fabric. The effect of its gigantic size is there fore lost, and the front, instead of being subservient to the dome, is made to appear so prominent that the grandest feature of the building hardly seems to belong to it. Notwithstanding this defect, it can scarcely be doubted that Maderno has been more severely criti cised than he deserved. The circum stances which controlled his design seem to have been altogether forgotten, for, although the heavy balconies which intersect the columns of the facade lessen the effect and size, it is obvious that they were necessary for the papal benediction, and that any front in which they did not form an essential part would have been as great an ano maly as the balcony in our own St. Paul's, where it is not required. The judgment of Forsyth, which it has been the fashion to adopt without reflection, dwells on Maderno's works with a harshness of criticism strangely in contradiction to his praise of the nave and vestibule. The plan of the Latin cross was not a novelty, but merely a return to the designs of Raphael : a pro ceeding rendered necessary by the de termination of the pope to include that portion of the site of the old basilica which had become sacred from its shrines, and which had been entirely excluded in the plan of Michel Angelo. The nave was finished in 1612; the facade and portico in 1614 ; and the ch. was dedicated by Urban VIII. on the 18th November, 1626. Under Alexander VIL, Bernini began in 1667 the magnificent colonnade which surrounds the Piazza. Pius VI., in 1780, erected the sacristy from the de signs of Carlo Marchionni, gilded the roof of the interior, and placed the 2 clocks on the facade. From the first foundation, therefore, in 1450, to the de dication of the basilica by Urban VIIL, the building occupied a period of 176 years ; and if we include in the calcu lation the works of Pius VI., we shall find that it required 3£ centuries to bring the edifice to completion, and that its progress during that period extended over the reigns of no less than 43 popes. The expenses of the works were so great that both Julius II. and Leo X. resorted to the sale of indulgences for the purpose of meeting them. The excess to which this practice was carried is well known to have created that re action which led to the Reformation. At the close of the 17th century the cost was estimated by Carlo Fontana at 46,800,498 scudi (10,000,000?.), ex clusive of the sacristy (900,000 scudi), bell-towers, models, mosaics, &c. The space covered by the buildings of St. Peter's is said to measure 240,000 square feet ; the original plan of Bra mante would have covered 350,000, or about 8 English acres. The annual expenditure on repairs, superintend ence, &c, is now 30,000 scudi (6300Z.). After this general sketch of the his tory of this grandest of Christian temples, we shall proceed to a more detailed description of its different parts, beginning with the Colonnades. — It is scarcely possible to imagine anything so perfectly adapted to the front of the basilica, or 60 well contrived to conceal the build ings on each side of the piazza, as these noble porticoes. They were designed by Bernini, in the pontificate of Alex- anderVII. (1657-67), and are generally considered as his masterpiece in archi tecture. They are semicircular, 55 feet wide, supported by 4 rows of columns, 48 feet high, arranged so as to leave sufficient room between the inner rows for the passage of 2 car riages abreast. The number of co lumns in the 2 colonnades is 284, be sides 64 pilasters. On the entablature stand 192 statues of saints, each 12 feet in height. The whole structure and the statues are of travertine. The area enclosed by these colonnades measures in its greatest diameter or breadth 787 English feet. The colonnades ter minate in 2 Galleries, 360 feet long and 23 feet wide, which lead to the Sect. I. § 24. ST. peter's. 103 vestibule of St. Peter's. These gal leries are not parallel to each other, converging towards the E., and form ing with the front an irregular square, which becomes broader as it ap proaches the facade of the basilica. This arrangement tends to diminish considerably the effect of the building when seen from the opposite extremity of the piazza; for the eye is quite unable to appreciate the great distance from the end .of the colonnades to the facade, and it is only by walking up to the steps that the visitor can be lieve that there is a space of 296 feet from the point where the colonnades terminate to the front of the basilica. At the bottom of the flight of steps are 2 colossal statues, of St. Peter by De Fabris, and St. Paul by Tadolini, erected by Pius IX. The Facade is built entirely of tra vertine, from the designs of Carlo Ma- derno. It is 379 feet long and 148J feet high. It has 3 stories and an attic, with 8 columns and 4 pilasters of the Corinthian order. Each story has 9 windows, and is disfigured by the heavy balconies from which the pope bestows his benediction on certain festivals. The columns are 8f feet in diameter and 92} feet high, including the capitals. On the attic are 13 colossal statues, 18} feet high, representing the Saviour and the Twelve Apostles. The inscription on the frieze of the entablature records its completion by Paul V. Five open entrances lead into the magnificent Vestibule (kk), 468 feet long, 66 feet high, and 50 feet wide, including the 2 extremities. At each end of the vestibule is an equestrian statue ; that on the rt. (m) is Bernini's of Constantine, that on the 1. (s) of Charlemagne by Cornacchini. Over the central entrance to the vestibule, and consequently oppo site the great door of the basilica, is the celebrated mosaic of the Navicella, representing St. Peter walking on the sea, sustained by the Saviour. It was executed by Giotto in 1298, assisted by his pupil Pietro Cavallini, and was placed over the E. entrance to the qua- driporticus in front of the old basilica. On the destruction of that edifice, the mosaic changed places several times, and was at length placed in its present position. It has suffered much from restorations, and Lanzi says it " has been so much repaired, that it has lost its original design, and seems to be executed by an altogether different artist." There are 3 entrances leading into the basilica, corresponding with these to the vestibule. The bronze doors of the central one, which are only opened on great occasions, belonged to the old basilica, and were executed in the 1 5th century, byAntonio Filarete, and Simone, brother of Donatello. The bas-reliefs of the compartments re present Our Saviour and the Virgin above, SS. Paul and Peter deliver ing the keys to Eugenius IV., and below the martyrdoms of St. Peter and St. Paul, and some events in the his tory of Eugenius IV., during whose pon tificate they were cast, particularly the coronation of the emperor Sigismund and the council of Florence. The bas- reliefs of the frame-work are by no means in character with the other sub jects; they consist of medallions of Ro man emperors, satyrs, nymphs, and even mythological subjects, such as Leda and the Swan, Ganymede, the fable of the Fox and the Stork, surrounded by arabesque reliefs of fruit and flowers, &c. One of the side doors on the rt. (l), which is walled up and with a bronze cross in the centre, is called the Porta Santa, which is pulled down by the pope on the Christmas-eve of the jubilee, which has taken place every 25th year. The pope begins the demolition of the door by striking it 3 times with a silver hammer, and at the close of the ceremony the dates of the last 2 jubilees are placed over the entrance. The only jubilee which has taken place in the present century was that of 1825, in the pontificate of Leo XII. ; those of 1800 and 1850 were not celebrated, owing to the political cir cumstances of those eventful years. Between the doorways opening into the ch. are 3 inscriptions of some historical interest, which stood in front of the ancient basilica : the copy of the bull of Boniface VIIL granting certain indul gences on the occasion of the institution of the jubilee in 1 300 ; the verses com- 104 § 24. BASILICAS — ST. PETER'S. Rome. posed by Charlemagne in honour of Pope Adrian I. ; and the grant of cer tain olive-grounds by Gregory II. to supply oil for the lamps of the church. The Interior, in spite of all the criti cisms of architects, is worthy of the most majestic temple of the Christian world. Whatever may be the defects in particular details, whatever faults the practised eye of the architect may detect in some of the minor ornaments, we believe that the minds of most per sons who enter it for the first time are too much absorbed by the unrivalled unity of its proportions to be influenced by such professional pedantry. The one great de fect is the apparent want of magnitude which generally strikes every one at first sight. The mind does not at once become conscious of its immensity, and it is only after its different parts have been examined, and perhaps only after several visits, that the gigantic scale of the building can be appreciated. There can be no doubt that the colossal size of the statues contributes to a certain degree to diminish the real magnitude of the building ; the eye is so unaccustomed to figures of such proportions, that they supply a false standard by which the spectator mea sures the details of the edifice around, without being immediately sensible of the fact. " But thou, of temples old, or altars new, Standest alone — with nothing like to thee — Worthiest of God, the holy and the true. Since Zion's desolation, when that He Forsook his former city, what could be, Of earthly structures, in his honour piled, Of a sublimer aspect ? Majesty, Power, glory, strength, and beauty— all are aisled In this eternal ark of worship undented. "Enter : its grandeur overwhelms thee not; And why ? it is not lessen'd ; but thy mind, Expanded by the genius of the spot, Has grown colossal, and can only find A fit abode wherein appear enshrined Thy hopes of immortality ; and thou Shalt one day, if found worthy, so defined, See thy God face to face, as thou dost now His Holy of Holies, nor be blasted by his brow." Childe Harold. The measurements of St. Peter's have been stated very differently by the several authorities. On the central pavement of the nave are marked the respective lengths of St. Peter's and of some of the other principal churches of Christendom. St. Peter's is there stated to be 837 palms within the walls, without 862-8 (additis parie- tibus), which, calculating the palm at 8-795 English inches (or 8| nearly), will give 613A Eng. ft.; St. Paul's, London, 710 palms (520£ft.); Milan Cathedral, 606 palms (443 feet); St. Paul's, Rome, 572 palms (419 J ft.); St. Sophia, Constantinople, 492 palms (360J feet). The height of the nave near the door is 152} ft., the width at this portion is 119 palms (87} ft.). The width of the side aisles is 46 palms (33$ ft.). The width of the nave and side aisles, including the pilasters that separate them, is 262 palms (197-| ft.) The extreme length of the transepts, from end to end, is 446} ft. The height of the baldac- chino, from the pavement to the top of the cross on it, is 95j ft. The circum ference of the 4 great pilasters that support the dome is 253 ft. The dia meter of the cupola, including the outer walls, is 195^ ft. ; the diameter of the interior of the cupola is 139 ft, 3 ft. less than that of the Pantheon. The height of the dome from the pave ment to the base of the, lantern is 405 ft. ; from the pavement to the top of the cross outside, 448 ft. According to these measurements, St. Peter's ex ceeds our St. Paul's, in length, by 93^ ft. ; in height to the top of the cross, by 64 ft. ; and in the diameter of the cupola, including the thickness of its walls, by 50 ft.* The Nave (a a) is vaulted and orna mented with sunken coffers, richly * To render our description of St. Peter's more intelligible, we have inserted a ground- plan of the interior of the Basilica ; to the place of each object worthy of notice, letters and num bers are affixed — the Roman capitals indicate the great features of the building, the numerals the chapels and altars, the smaller letters the sepulchral monuments. The same system has been adopted in the more detailed plan of the subterranean church, at p. 112, and in those of the other ecclesiastical edifices inserted in the text. In the plan of St. Peter's the outline of the crypt has been Introduced, but in a lighter shade, to show its form and place relatively to the more modern church. The circular dotted lines show the position of the dome and several cu polas, by which the interior of the Basilica re ceives its light. GrEOTJND PlAJS OF St. PETER'S. . Nave. . Tfibui A A. B. "Tribune. ~;| C C. Transepts. Dl D2 D3. Pilaaters of Great Dome, E. Statue of St. Peter, F. Chairof St. Peter and Altar, (Chapels and Altars of — ._ I. La'Pieta. 2. The Crucifix. i. S. Sebastian. 1. The Sacrament. f The Madonna. I del Soccorso. 6. S. Jerome, 7. S. BaBil. G. Entrance to Sacristy. H. Entrance to Cupola. K K. reat Vestibule. L. La Porta Santa. M N. Statues of Constantine and Charlemagne. Sepulchral Monuments of- <*• LeoXlf. I J Christina of I Sweden. Innocent XII. The portion in a lighter tint represents the subteiTanean church ; the circular dotted lines (he several cupulas. P 3 106 § 24. BASILICAS — ST. PETEIt's. Rome. decorated with gilding and stucco ornaments. Five massive piers, sup porting 4 arches, separate the nave from the aisles: each pier is faced with 2 Corinthian pilasters in stucco, having 2 niches between them; the lower niches contain colossal statues of saints, founders of the different re ligious orders. Corresponding with the great arches of the nave are cha pels in the side aisles, which tend to break the general effect by their inter rupting lines, and reduce the aisles to the appearance of passages. With the exception of the upper portions of the pilasters, the walls and piers are gene rally faced with slabs of marble, richly varied with medallions and other sculp tures. Many of the upper decorations are in stucco; the two recumbent Virtues over each arch are of this material. The pavement is entirely composed of marbles, originally from the designs of Giacomo della Porta and Bernini. The portion in the rt. aisle near the Porta Santa, and opposite the Capella della Pieta, recently completed, is extremely beautiful. The Basins for holy water, supported by cherubs, afford a striking example of the im mense scale of the building. On entering the ch. the cherubs appear of the size of ordinary children, and it is only when they are approached or compared with the human figure that they are found to be in reality that of full-grown persons. The Dome is the great object which commands the admiration of the stranger who visits St. Peter's for the first time. Its measurements have already been given. Nothing can sur pass the magnificence of its stupen dous vault, resting on the 4 colossal piers ; and no language can do justice to its sublime effect. The surprise of the beholder is increased by the recol lection that there is another outer cupola, and that the stairs which lead to its summit pass between the two. Each of the 4 piers that support it has 2 recesses, one above the other, looking towards the high altar (15). The lower ones (d, d', d'2, d3) contain the statues of S. Veronica holding the Sudarium, by Francesco Mochi; S. He lena with the Cross, by Andrea Bolgi ; S. Longinus, the soldier who pierced the side of our Saviour, by Bernini; and St. Andrew, by Fiammingo (Du Quesnoy). Each of these is about 16 feet high. The St. Andrew is that which possesses the greatest merit as a work of art. Above them are 4 balconies, in which are preserved the relics of the respective saints. In that over the statue of S. Veronica is kept the Sudarium, or handkerchief, contain ing the impression of the Saviour's features, which is exhibited with so much ceremony to the people during the holy week. In the balcony over St. Helena is a portion of the true cross ; and in that over St. Andrew the head of the saint, which was stolen in 1848, but subsequently re covered, having been hidden outside the walls between Porta di Cavalligeri and Porta S. Pancrazio, where a sta tue of St. Andrew has been erected by Pius IX. No one is allowed to visit these relics who has not the rank of a canon of the Church; and it is said that the sovereigns and princes who have been admitted to examine them have first received that rank as an honorary distinction. The spiral columns in the recesses of the balconies belonged to the old basi lica. Above these recesses, on the spandrils of the arches, are 4 mosaic medallions, representing the Evan gelists, with their emblems ; the pen in the hand of St. Luke is 7 feet long. On the frieze, running round the cir cumference of the base of the dome, is the following inscription in mosaic ; the letters are 6 ft. long: tv.es. petrvs.et. SVPEK..HANC .PETRAM . AEDiriCABO . EC- CLESIAM . MEAM.ET . TIBI . DABO . CLAVES. hegni.coelob.vm. The drum of the cupola is formed of 32 coupled pilasters of the Corinthian order.andpiercedwith 16 windows. The cupola above is di- videdinto 16 compartments, ornamented with gilded stuccoes and 4 ranges of mosaics, the lowest representing the Saviour, the Virgin, and the Apostles. On the ceiling of the lantern is a mosaic of the Almighty, by Marcello Pro vencal, from a painting of Cav. (d'Arpino. "The cupola," says For- Sect. I. § 24. st. peter's. 107 syth, *is glorious, viewed in its design, its altitude, or even its de corations; viewed either as a whole or as a part, it enchants the eye, it satisfies the taste, it expands the soul. The very air seems to eat up all that is harsh or colossal, and leaves us nothing but the sublime to feast on : — a sublime peculiar as the genius of the immortal architect, and comprehensible only on the spot. The 4 surrounding cupolas, though but satellites to the majesty of this, might have crowned 4 elegant churches. The elliptical cupo- lettas are mere expedients to palliate the defect of Maderno's aisles, which depend on them for a scanty light." The Baldacchino, or grand canopy covering the high altar (15), stands under the centre of the dome. It is of bronze, supported by 4 spiral columns with composite capitals, and covered with the richest gilt ornaments and foliage. It is 95j feet high to the summit of the cross. It was cast from the designs of Bernini in 1633, partly from the 8374 lbs. of bronze stripped from the Pantheon, partly from metal purchased at Venice by Urban VIII., whose armorial device, 3 bees, may be recognised on several parts of the work. The cost of the gilding alone is said to have been 40,000 scudi; of the whole canopy 100,000, nearly 22,000?. The High Altar, under the baldacchino, stands immediately over the relics of St. Peter. It is only used on the great festivals of the Church, and the Pope alone can celebrate mass at it, or a cardinal, when authorised by a special Apostolic brief. The sunk space before the Confession is surrounded by a cir cular balustrade of marble. On this are suspended 93 lamps, which are burning night and day. A double flight of steps leads down to the shrine. The first object which attracts attention is the kneeling statue of Pius VI. (x), one of the finest works of Canova. The pope is represented praying before the tomb of the Apostle : the attitude and position of the figure were pre scribed by Pius himself during his captivity. On the rt. side of the nave, placed against the last pier, is the well- known bronze Statue of St. Peter (e), on a marble chair, with the foot ex tended. On entering the basilica, de votees kiss the toe of this foot, pressing their forehead against it after each salutation. Some antiquaries state that it was cast by St. Leo from the bronze statue of Jupiter Capitolinus ; other writers of more recent date assert that it is the identical statue of Jupiter himself, transformed into that of the Apostle. The rude execu tion of the figure conclusively proves that it is not a work of classical times ; and it seems much more likely to be long to the early ages of Christianity, when sculpture, like architecture, was copied from heathen models. The Tribune (b), decorated from the designs of Michel Angelo, is very rich in ornaments : at the farther end is the famous Chair of St. Peter in bronze (f) ; it encloses the one in which, according to the Church tradition, St. Peter and many of his succes sors officiated. The bronze covering was executed by Bernini in 1667. It is supported by four fathers of the Church, — St. Augustin and St. Ambrose of the Latin, St. Chrysostom and St. Athanasius of the Greek.* Between these and beneath the chair a handsome altar was dedicated with great pomp in January, 1859, by Pius IX. The side walls of the Tribune have been dis figured by inserting a series of inscrip tions relative to the publication here, in Dec. 1854, of the dogma of the Imma culate Conception, with the names of all the cardinals and prelates who were present on that occasion. The Sepulchral Monuments, with the exception of those of recent date, are, for the most part, scarcely worthy of St. Peter's as works of art. Many of them have aUegorical figures in the style of Bernini. The altars of the * A good photograph of this very curious monumeDt has been lately published for the first time, and may he had at Spithover's library. It appears to us very unlikely to belong to the period mentioned in the text; both 1ho woodwork and the ivory ornaments being of a mediaeval period, the latter resembling in style those upon the altar front in the sacristy at the Cathedral of Salerno, and which are supposed to be of Byzantine origin. 108 § 24. BASILICAS ST. PETER'S. Rome. chapels are, for the most part, deco rated with mosaic copies of celebrated paintings, and as a whole it is diffi cult to imagine a series more beau tifully executed. We shall notice the most remarkable of these, and the principal tombs, in making the cir cuit of the basilica. Beginning from the tribune, on the rt. of St. Peter's chair is the mausoleum of Paul III. (n), by Guglielmo della Porta, to whom its execution was confided, by the advice of Michel Angelo. It is the finest of the sepulchral monuments in St. Peter's. The statue of the pope is of bronze : the 2 allegorical female figures, in marble, of Prudence and Justice are said to be portraits of the pope's mother, Giovanna Caetani, and of his sister, Giulia Farnese. The Justice is said to have been so truly modelled to nature as to ren der drapery necessary; the present in painted lead was added by Bernini. This monument, which formerly stood where the statue of St. Veronica now is, cost 24,000 scudi ; the statues of Peace and Abundance, at present in the Farnese Palace, formed pendants to those remaining, and were removed in 1629, when the tomb was placed where it now stands by Urban VIII. On the opposite side of the tri bune is the monument of Urban VIII (m). The bronze statue of the pope is by Bernini; those of Justice and Charity, in marble, by his pupils. Proceeding onwards along the S. side of the building by the 1. transept, the first mosaic we meet with (16) is a copy of Mancini's St. Peter and St. John. Opposite to it is the tomb of Alexander VIII. (o) (Ottobuoni), by Arrigo di San Martina : it has a bronze statue of the pope, and 2 marble figures of Religion and. Prudence, by Angelo Rossi; the bas-relief represents the canonization of 5 saints by this pope. Near it is the altar of St. Leo (17), over which is the immense bas-relief by Algardi, representing that pope threat ening Attila with the vengeance of St. Peter and St. Paul if he should approach Rome : it is perhaps the largest bas- relief ever executed in marble. In front of it is a circular marble slab covering the remains of Leo XII., with an inscription written by himself. Further on towards the transept is the tomb of Alexander VII. O), the last work of Bernini. The pope is re presented kneeling, surrounded by 4 allegorical figures of Justice, Prudence, Charity, and Truth : the latter, only by Bernini, was considered by Innocent XI. so naked as to necessitate the drapery which now covers it. Opposite this tomb is a finely-coloured oil paint ing on slate by Francesco Vanni (19), representing the Fall of Simon Magus ; it is one of the few pictures in oil in this basilica. Entering the S. transept, at the central altar (21) is a copy in mosaic of Guido's celebrated picture of the Crucifixion of St. Peter. The mosaic of the Incredulity of St. Thomas at the adjoining altar, dedicated to him (20), is from a picture by Camuccini, and, on the opposite side, in the chapel, of St. Francis receiving the Stigmata (22), after the painting by Domenichino, now in the ch. of the Cappuccini. Farther on, over the altar of St. Peter and St. Andrew (23), is the mosaic of Ananias and Saphira, from Roncalli's picture in S. Maria degli Angeli ; and opposite over the door G leading to the sacristy, the last raised sepulchral monument in St. Peter's, that to Pius VIII. by Tenerani, a poor work, on which the Pontiff is represented in the foreground upon his knees, with a statue of the Saviour behind, in the act of giving his benediction to the Pontiff, and others of St. Peter and St. Paul on either side ; two alto-relievos of Justice and Mercy are on the pediment below ; this monument was raised from a legacy of Cardinal Albani, who was Secretary of State during Pius VIII.'s short pontificate. The mosaic over the altar of St. Gregory the Great (25) represents the Miracle of that saint, from A. Sacchi's picture in the Pinacotheca. Close by is the tomb of Pius VII., by Thorwaldsen (q), erected at a cost of 27,000 scudi, be queathed for that purpose by his devoted minister and friend Cardinal Consalvi. The pope is represented seated upon his throne between 2 angels or genii representing History and Time, and Sect. I. § 24. st. peter's. 109 lower d»wn 2 larger figures of Power and Wisdom. By some the tomb is not regarded as worthy of its great sculptor, or of one of the most be nevolent and virtuous pontiffs who ever wore the papal tiara. Against the pier opposite is the altar of the Transfiguration (24), over which is the mosaic copy of Raphael's cele brated picture of that subject, the copy being somewhat larger than the original painting. From here entering the 1. aisle, under the arcade is the tomb of Leo XI. (r), by Algardi, with a bas-relief representing the abjuration of Henry IV. of France, before the pope's legates, one of whom was Car dinal de Medicis, afterwards Leo XI. Opposite is that of Innocent XL (s) (Odescalchi),by Monot, a French artist : the bas-relief represents the raising of the siege of Vienna by John Sobieski ; the 2 marble figures Religion and Justice. The Capella del Coro or the Choir (26) near here, in which divine service is celebrated daily before the assembled canons, has 3 rows of stalls and 2 fine organs ; the walls and ceiling are richly decorated with gilding and stucco ornaments, from the designs of Giacomo della Porta. The mosaic altarpiece of the Conception is a copy of the picture by Pietro Bianchi now in Sta. Maria degli Angeli. Under the arch leading to the neighbouring chapel is the tomb of Innocent VIII. (u), of the Cibo family : it is entirely of bronze, and is a very fine work of Pietro and Antonio Pollojuolo : on a bracket is a sitting statue of the Pope, holding a spear-head, in allusion to the gift of Bajazet II. to the pontiff of the spear which pierced the side of our Saviour. Opposite is the memorial in stucco of Gregory XVI. (t) ; the niche it occupies is appropriated as the tem porary resting-place of the last pontiff, whose remains lie here until the death of his successor, when they are removed to the subterranean ch. or placed in a separate monument. The Chapel of the Presentazione (27) contains a mosaic copy of the Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple, by Francesco Romanelli. Close to this chapel are 2 monuments which will not fail to interest the English traveller. The first on the rt. hand, over the door (h) leading to the roof and the dome, is that of Maria Clementina Sobieski, wife of the Pretender James III., called here Queen of Great Britain, France, and Ireland: she died at Rome in 1745. It consists of a porphyry sarcophagus with alabaster drapery and a Genius holding a medallion portrait of the queen in mosaic, and was designed by Filippo Barigioni, and executed by Pietro Bracci, at the expense of the " Fabbrica" of St. Peter's. Opposite to this is O- nova's Monument of the Stuarts (v). It represents the entrance to a mausoleum guarded by genii, which, having ap peared too naked to the over-fasti dious authorities in the time of Leo XII., have been breeched with stucco drapery. The principal expense of this monument was defrayed from the privy purse of George IV. The fol lowing is the inscription : — JACOBO III. JACOBI II. MAGNiE BBIT. REGIS FILIO, KAROLO EDVAEDO, ET HENRICO, DF.CANO PATRVM CAKDINALIYM, JACOBI III. FILIIS, REGLJE STIRPIS STVARDI.& POSTREMIS, ANNO MDCCCXIX. BEATI MORTUI QUI IN DOMINO MORIUNTUK. " Beneath that unrivalled dome,'' says Lord Mahon, " lie mouldering the remains of what was once a brave and gallant heart; and a stately monument from the chisel of Canova, and at the charge, , as I believe, of the House of Hanover, has since arisen to the memory of James the Third, Charles the Third, and Henry the Ninth, Kings of England, — names which an Englishman can scarcely read without a smile or a sigh ! Often at the present day does the British traveller turn from the sunny crest of the Pincian, or the carnival throng of the Corso, to gaze in thoughtful silence on that .mockery of human greatness, and that last record of ruined hopes ! The tomb before him is of a race justly expelled ; the magnificent temple that enshrines it is of a faith wisely re formed; yet who at such a moment would harshly remember the errors of 110 § 24. BASILICAS — ST. PETEIt's. Rome. either, and might not join in the prayer even of that erring Church for the de parted, ' Requiescant in pace ! ' " The title of King of England is only given here to the first Pretender, whilst we shall see it applied to all three in the subterranean church, where their remains are in reality deposited. The chapel of the Baptistery (28), the last on this side of the basilica, contains the ancient vase of red porphyry which formed the cover of the tomb of the emperor Otho IL, as it did more an ciently that of Hadrian ; it now serves as a baptismal font. The mosaic of the Baptism of Christ is a copy from Carlo Maratta; the St. Peter baptizing his gaolers in the Mamertine prisons is from Passeri ; and the Baptism of the Centurion is from a picture by C. Pro- caccini. In the N. side aisle beginning from the entrance door, the first chapel is called the Capella della Pieta (1), from the celebrated Pieta by Michel Angelo, a marble group represent ing the Virgin with the body of the dead Saviour on her knees. It was one of the great sculptor's first works, being executed when he was only in his 24th year, at the expense of the French ambassador, Cardinal Jean de Villiers, abbot of St Denis. The critics of Michel Angelo's own time objected to the youthful appear ance of the Virgin, and to the Son being represented older than the mother; but he justified it on the ground that it afforded an additional proof of the pure and spotless charac ter of the Virgin. The group is not seen to advantage in its present posi tion, and indeed seems lost : some por tions of it are extremely beautiful, and it is much to be regretted that it is not better placed. Michel Angelo has inscribed his name on the girdle of the Virgin ; it is said to be the only work on which he ever did so. In the well-known letter written by Francis I, to Michel Angelo in 1507, in which the king requests him to send some of his works to Paris to adorn one of the royal chapels, this Pieta and the statue of Christ in S. Maria sopra Minerva are particularly mentioned. The king entreats M. Angelo to sell to the bearer of his letter, who was the painter Prima- ticcio, some works of the same kind, " pour l'amour de moi," and de scribes these productions "comme de choses que l'on m'a asseure' estre des plus exquises et excellentes en votre art." On each side of the altar of the Capelladella Pieta are 2 smaller chapels, enclosed by bronze doors : that on the 1., built from the designs of Bernini, called Del Crocifisso(2) from containing a crucifix sculptured by Pietro Caval- lini, and a mosaic by Cristofari, repre senting St. Nicholas of Bari. Here are preserved the principal relics belonging to St. Peter's, from which they are conveyed in great ceremony to the balcony over the statue of St. Helena when exposed to public view on great festivals. The other chapel, called the Capella della Colonna Santa, contains a column, in white marble, said to have been brought from the Temple at Jerusalem, and to be the one against which our Saviour leaned when he disputed with the doctors ; it is highly ornamented with reliefs and spiral fiutings, and is enclosed in a pyra midal cage of iron-work. Here also is a marble Sarcophagus, on which for merly stood the baptismal font, and bears the name of Anicius Probus, pre fect of Rome in the 4th century. It has five compartments with bas-reliefs re presenting Christ and the apostles; and, though highly interesting as a Christian monument, is less remark able as a work of art than the sarco phagus of Junius Bassus in the subter ranean church. Returning into the aisle, is the statue of Leo XII. (a) by Fabris, raised by Gregory XVI., who caused that of Innocent XII., which stood here, to be removed ; and opposite to it the monument of Christina queen of Sweden (6), who died at Rome in 1 6S9. It was erected by Innocent XII., from the designs of Carlo Fontana, and is ornamented with a bas-relief by Tendon, a French artist, representing thequeen's abjuration of Protestantism in the cathedral of Innspruck, in 1655. The mosaic in the adjoining chapel of St. Sebastian (3) is a copy of the pic- Sect. I. § 24. st. peter's. 111 ture of the martyrdom of the saint, by Domenichino, now in Sta. Maria degli Angeli. Under the next archway are the monuments to Innocent XII. (o), by Filippo Valle, in which the pope is re presented sitting, supported by Charity and Justice ; and that of the Countess Matilda (d), by Bernini; she died in 1115, and was buried in the convent of St. Benedict at Mantua; Urban VIII. had her remains removed to St. Peter's in 1635; the bas-relief on the front of the sarcophagus represents Gregory VII. giving absolution to the emperor Henry IV. in the presence of the countess. The Chapel of the Holy Sacra ment (4) contains, among other rich ornaments, a beautiful tabernacle of lapis lazuli and gilt bronze in the form of Bramante's circular temple at S. Pietro in Montorio. The altarpiece of the Trinity is a fresco by Pietro da Coriona, who designed the stucco bas- reliefs and mosaics of the roof and cupola. This chapel contains, before the altar of St. Maurice, the tomb of Sixtus IV. (e), in bronze, ornamented with bas-reliefs by Antonio delPollajuolo, a very beautiful specimen of sepulchral sculpture. Julius II., of the same fa mily, is also buried under this monu ment ; the only memorial to this extra ordinary pontiff, who so mainly con tributed to the raising of the magnifi cent edifice in which his ashes now lie so neglected, being a small marble slab let into the pavement; the wish of the ambitious pope to be interred in the tomb by Michel Angelo now erected in the ch. of S. Pietro in Vincoli having never been fulfilled — an eternal stigma on his family, whom he had enriched and raised to power, and on the heads of that church whose temporal in terests he had so greatly advanced. The mosaic altarpiece in this chapel is a copy of M. A. Caravaggio's Entomb ment in the Pinacotheca of the Vatican. Under the adjoining arch is the tomb of Gregory XIII. (/), of the Buon- compagni family, during whose pon tificate took place the reform of the calendar : it is by Camillo Rusconi ; the statue of the pope is supported by figures of Religion and Power. The bas-relief in front represents the cor rection of the calendar. Opposite is the tomb of Gregory XIV. ( Sect. I. § 25. S. ANDREA DEI SCOZZESI. 145 moved o#its being pulled down. The St. Sebastian in the 3rd chapel on 1. is by Giovanni de' Vecchi. In the Rucellai chapel, the 2nd on the 1., is the tomb of Giovanni della Casa, the learned archbishop of Benevento, who died in 1556. He was the bio grapher of Cardinal Bembo, and the author of the Galateo, or Art of Living in the World. Another tomb of some interest is that of Cardinal Gozzadino, nephew of Gregory XV. The Barberini chapel, 1st on 1., con tains an Assumption by Domenico Pas- signani ; and 4 statues, of which S. Martha is by Francesco Mochi, St. John the Evangelist by Buonvicino, the Bap tist by Pietro Bernini, and the Magdalen by Cristoforo Santi. The Feast of the Epiphany is celebrated with great pomp here, and sermons in different languages preached during its Octave. This ch. is supposed to occupy the site of the Curia of Pompey, and very near to where Caesar fell. Close by is the Palazzo Valle, belonging to a family that has given its name to the adjoin ing quarter,the paternal house of Pietro della Valle, the celebrated traveller of the 14th century. S. Andrea dei Scozzesi, in the street leading from the Piazza Barberini to the Quirinal, is chiefly interesting to our northern fellow-countrymen from being the last resting-place of many Scottish families who died at Rome ; it dates from 1649, when it was erected by the Marchioness of Huntley and Count Leslie. The large picture-of the Martyrdom of St. Andrew, over the high altar, is by Gavin Hamilton ; the 2 oblong ones, of different saints, by Jamieson, a Scottish artist, the fellow pupil of Vandyke, and in the style of the latter. This ch. is annexed to a College for the Education of Roman Catholic Priests natives of Scotland, having been much enlarged and re built, from donations chiefly from Scottish Roman Catholics. S. Angelo in Pescheria, close to the Por tico of Octavia, supposed to occupy a part of the site of the Temple of Juno, noticed under the head of Anti quities in our description of that por tico ; but it is chiefly remarkable from [Some.} its connexion with the history of Cola di Rienzo. It was upon the walls of this ch. that he exhibited the alle gorical picture of Rome, which first roused the people against the nobles. It was here also that he assembled the citizens by sound of trumpet to meet at midnight on the 20th May, 1347, in order to establish the " good estate." After passing the night in religious observances, Cola marched out of the ch. in armour, but with his head un covered, attended by the papal vicar and numerous followers bearing alle gorical standards of Peace, Liberty, and Justice. He proceeded in this way to the Capitol, and there, standing before the lion of basalt, called on the people to ratify the articles of the Good Estate. This memorable scene terminated by the elevation of Cola to power as the Tribune and Liberator of Rome. This ch. underwent an almost entire reconstruction in 1860. The Jews, whose Ghetto is close by, are compelled to pay an annual tax to this ch., as well as to the neigh bouring Casa dei Neofiti, or House of the Converts to Christianity, from amongst their co-religionists. S. Antonio Abate, near Santa Maria Maggiore, supposed to stand upon the site of a temple of Diana; the only part remaining of the edifice rebuilt in 1481 is the handsome Lombard porch which led formerly into the Hospital, and now forms the principal entrance to the ch. In the chapel of the saint, on the rt. on entering, are two curious specimens of coloured mosaic repre senting tigers tearing young bulls. The walls in the interior, which was restored in the last century, are covered with frescoes representing scenes in the life of the saint, painted by Gio vanni della Marca, in most of which the Devil plays a conspicuous part ; those of the cupola of the chapel of the patron saint are by Pomarancio. On the feast of St. Anthony (January 17th) and during the whole of the following week the ch. was much resorted to by the peasantry to have their domes tic animals blessed and sprinkled with holy water. On the 24th, or octave, all the postmasters abput Rome used to R 146 § 25. CHURCHES — SS. APOSTOLI. Rome. send their horses mounted by their postilions in their smartest liveries for the same purpose. Those of the pope, of the Church dignitaries, and Roman princes, are brought between 12 and 1 o'clock, decorated in their richest trappings. The ceremony was for merly an interesting one, and enabled the visitor to see the finest studs of the Roman aristocracy, but of late years the great families have ceased to send their horses to be blessed. The ancient ch. of S. Andrea in Barbara, which stood on the site of the Basilica Sicini- ana in the rear of this ch., and which existed until the 17th centy., has en tirely disappeared. Sant' Antonio dei Portoguesi, near the Via della Scrofa, the national ch. of the Portuguese, is a handsome edifice in ternally, of the 1 7th century, its walls being richly decorated with various kinds of coloured marbles and Sicilian jasper; none of the paintings are of any great merit ; it contains numerous tombs of Portuguese who have died at Rome. S. Apollinare, in the square of the same name, near the ch. of S. Agos- tino, is a handsome edifice, supposed to stand on the site of a temple of Apollo, converted into a Christian ch. by St. Silvester. The present edifice dates from the time of Benedict XIV., and consists of a large vestibule, and an undivided nave; the choir and high altar were erected by the architect Fuga at his own expense. In the vestibule at the altar on the 1. is a painting of the Umbrian school of the 1 6th century, representing the Madonna with SS. Peter and Paul, erroneously attributed to Perugino. The adjoining extensive convent, formerly possessed by the Jesuits, is now the ecclesiastical seminary of the diocese of Rome. This ch. is celebrated for its collection of sacred relics. SS. Apostoli, in the piazza of the same name behind the Corso, founded by Pelagius I. in the 6th century, rebuilt by Martin V. about 1420 ; it is known amongst early writers as the Basilica Constantiniana. The tribune was added by Sixtus IV., and the portico by Julius II. when Cardinal della Rovere. The interior was restored by Francesco Fontana. Under the portico in front of the church is an antique bas-relief of an eagle standing in a crown of oak leaves, much admired as a specimen of ancient decorative art. At the opposite end is the simple monument erected by Canova to his early friend and countryman Volpato, the celebrated engraver: it represents in bas-relief » figure of Friendship weeping before the bust of the deceased. The interior of the ch. is remarkable for another fine work of Canova, the monument to Clement XIV., placed over the door in the 1. aisle which leads into the sacristy. By the inscription on that to Volpato we are told that the monument was executed by Canova in his 25th year, and we may therefore regard it as one of the first successful efforts of the new school of sculpture. It consists of a sitting statue of the Pope, and 2 figures representing Tem perance and Meekness, and was raised to his patron at the expense of Carlo Giorgi, who had received many fa vours from Clement XIV., and who commissioned his friend Volpato to employ Canova. The remains of the pontiff are laid in the cloisters. A Latin inscription, placed on one of the pilasters in the rt. aisle, marks the spot where the praecordia of Maria Cle mentina, wife of the first Pretender, are deposited : her monument we have al ready noticed in St. Peter's. The paint ings in this ch. are not remarkable : the picture over the high altar, represent ing the Martyrdom of the Apostles Philip and James, to whom this church was originally dedicated, and whose remains are beneath the high altar, is by Domenico Muratori: it is one of the largest altarpieces in Rome ; and is painted on the wall. The Triumph of the Franciscan Order on the vault over the nave is by Baciccio. The St. Anthony, in the chapel of that saint, by Benedetto Luti, is mentioned by Lanzi as one of his most esteemed works. A highly-decorated chapel, 2nd on rt., dedicated to the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, with a large modern painting by Coghetti, has been erected at an expense of 20,000 scudi, Sect. I. .§ 25. S. BALBINA. S. BARTOI.OMKO. 147 bequeathed by a banker named Chia- veri. In the choir is a good sepul chral monument of the 15th century, raised by Sixtus IV. to his kinsman Pietro Riario ; and opposite to it those of Garundo Anseduno in the same style, and of Cardinal Raphael Riario, from the designs of Michel Angelo. The festival of St. Bonaven tura is celebrated in this ch. on the ] 4th July, in the presence of the col lege of cardinals. The adjoining con vent is the head-quarters of the Order of the Black Friars, or Minor Conven tuals, of which Sixtus IV. and Cle ment XIV. were members ; in it were written the celebrated letters of the latter which made so much noise in the last century. In the clois ters of the convent are several monu ments, removed for the most part from the older church, amongst which are worthy of notice two to the memory of Cardinal Bessarion, the eminent Patriarch of Constantinople, who con tributed so much to the introduction of Greek literature into Western Europe since the revival : born at Trebizond, he attached himself to the Roman church, and became bishop of Tus culum in 1466 ; he raised, during his lifetime, one of these memorials, with a Greek and Latin inscription from his own pen ; the other was placed in the church, after his death at Ravenna, in 1472, by the monks, when his remains were brought here ; it is surmounted by a very characteristic portrait of the deceased in relief. The cenotaph to Michel Angelo, who died in this parish in March 1614, and who was buried here before his remains were removed clandestinely (clam), as stated on the modern inscription above, to Florence, where they were laid in the ch. of Santa Croce, has upon it a recumbent figure of the old man, with his very striking likeness. In a recess, formerly the door leading from the cloister into the ch., has been placed a memorial over the grave of Clement XIV., whose remains were removed here from St. Peter's in 1802. On the side wall is one of the memorials to Bessarion, surmounted by his bust in relief ; in the centre of the outer cloister is a large ancient marble vase, supposed to be the Cantharus, or vessel used for ablutions, which stood in the atrium of the primitive basilica. Attached to the convent is an ecclesiastical seminary founded by Sixtus IV. Ara Caili : see Santa Maria di Aracceli, near the Capitol (p. 170). Sta. Balbina, a very ancient ch., sup posed to date from the 6th centy.,on the Aventine, Itis intheform of the smaller basilicas, with 3 wheel windows in the front; the interior has been entirely modernized, the only objects worthy of notice being the tomb of Stefano Sordi, by one of the Cosimatis, adorned with mosaics and having a recumbent figure of the deceased. The bas-relief on the opposite side of the ch. was broughtfrom an altar erected by Cardinal Barbo in the old basilica of St. Peter's. The convent of Sta. Balbina, which is sur rounded by mediaeval walls, with a tower of the same period, when it served as a stronghold of the Roman barons, has been lately converted into a penitentiary for young criminals. The ch. is seldom open (on the 2nd Tuesday in Lent, and on March 31, the saint's anniversary) ; its principal interest is in its situation, commanding fine views over the Caelian, the valley between it and the Aventine, the ruins on the Palatine, and the Baths of Caracalla. i?. Bartolommeo in Isola, in the island of the Tiber, and on the site of a temple of Jupiter, or, as some antiqua ries will have it, of jEsculapius. The present ch., as we read on an inscription in hexameters over the central door, was erected in 1113 by Paschal II., to receive the bodies of certain mar tyrs ; and was successively restored by Gelasius II. and Alexander III. : it was nearly ruined during the frightful inundation of 1557. It acquired its present form in the reign of Gregory XIII., from the designs of Martino Longhi. The interior consists of a nave and 2 aisles, separated by 14 ancient granite columns with composite capitals. The urn under the high altar is a fine specimen of red porphyry, containing the relics of St. Bartholomew and other saints: before it is aputeal or mouthpiece H 2 148 § 25. CHURCHES — THE CAPPUCCINI. Rome. of a well, with bas-reliefs of the 12th century. The paintings in the differ ent chapels are chiefly of the 17th cen tury ; none of them are worthy of par ticular notice. In the garden of the adjoining Franciscan convent may be seen remains of the substructions which surrounded the island, giving to it the form of a ship, as stated in our chapter on the Antiquities (p. 36). A handsome cross, with 4 statues of saints, was erected in front of this ch., in 1870, by Pius IX. S. Bernardo, in the Piazza de' Ter mini, a circular building of consider able interest as one of the halls which stood at the angles of the outer circuit of the Baths of Dio cletian. It has been preserved entire by the pious care of Caterina Sforza, countess of Santa Fiora, who in 1598 converted it into a ch. dedicated to St. Bernard, and presented it to the Cister cian monastery which she founded and endowed. The ch. has been lately restored ; and the rents which menaced ruin to the beautiful roof, with its sunk square panels, repaired. There are several inscriptions to members of the Sforza family interred here ; and the slab tomb of Cardinal Passionei, the learned librarian of the Vatican. A good monument to the sculptor Finelli, who died in 1853, by Rinaldi, has been placed in this ch. S. Bibiana, not far from the Porta di San Lorenzo, founded in the 5th cen tury on the site of the house of the saint, near the Licinian Palace, and entirely remodelled by Urban VIII. from the designs of Bernini, who added the facade. The 8 columns, 6 of granite and 2 of marble, the latter with spiral fiutings and Corinthian capitals, sepa rating the nave from the aisles, are antique. On the walls of the nave are 10 frescoes of events in the life of the saint; those on the rt. are by Agostino Ciampelli; the opposite ones by Pietro da Cortona. The statue of S. Bibiana at the high altar is generally admitted to be the masterpiece of Ber nini. It is graceful in style, and forms a contrast to the fantastic taste which characterises his later works. Beneath the altar is a magnificent sarcophagus of Oriental alabaster 17 feet in cir cumference; it contains the remains of Bibiana and of 2 other saints of her family. Near the door, enclosed in an iron cage, is the stump of a column, to which Sta. Bibiana is said to have been tied when she suffered martyrdom — being flogged to death. This ch. is rarely open, except on the anniversary of the patron (Dec. 2nd, the St. Swithin's day of the Romans, who have a saying, that if it rains on that day it will continue to do so for the next forty) and on the 4th Friday in Lent. The Cappuccini, or S. Maria della Con- cezione, in the Piazza Barberini, built by Cardinal Francesco Barberini, a member of the Capuchin order, brother of Urban VIII. It is celebrated for the picture of the Archangel Mi chael by Guido (in the first chapel on the rt.), classed by Lanzi among his best works in the softer man ner. Forsyth calls it the Catholic Apollo. " Like the Belvedere god," he says, " the archangel breathes that dignified vengeance which animates without distorting; while the very devil derives importance from his august adversary, and escapes the laugh which his figure usually pro vokes." The Lucifer is said to be a likeness of Cardinal Pamfili, after wards Innocent X., who had dis pleased Guido by his criticisms. The common story tells us that it is the portrait of Urban VIIL ; but the fact that the picture was painted for Cardinal Barberini, the pope's bro ther, must throw discredit on the statement, even if it were not esta blished that the satire was directed against his predecessor, Innocent X. In the same chapel is a fine picture, by Gherardo della Notte, of Christ tempted and crowned with thorns, &c. Cardinal Barberini is buried in the ch. before the high altar ; his grave is marked by the simple inscription on the pave ment, Hie jacet pulvis, cinis, et nihil. On the wall above the entrance door is the cartoon by Francesco Beretta, re presenting St. Peter walking on the waters, used in restoring the Navicella which Giotto executed in mosaic, now under the portico of St, Peter's, In Sect. I. § 25. S. CARLO — S. CATERINA. 149 the chapel opposite to Guido's Arch angel is the Conversion of St. Paul, one of the best works of Pietro da Cor- tona. " Whoever," says Lanzi, " would know to what lengths he carried his style in his altarpiece should examine the Conversion of St. Paul in the Ca puchin ch. at Rome, which, though placed opposite to the St. Michael of Guido, nevertheless fails not to excite the admiration of such professors as are willing to admit various styles of beauty in art." The Ecstasy of St. Francis, by Domenichino, in the third chapel on the rt., was painted gratui tously for the ch. A fresco by Dome nichino, formerly in the convent, repre senting the death of St. Francis, has been recently placed here. The Dead Christ in the 3rd chapel on 1. is by his pupil, Andrea Camassei. On the l.-hand side of the high altar is the tomb of prince Alexander Sobieski, son of John III., King of Poland: he died in Rome in 1714. Under the ch. are 4 low vaulted chambers, entered from the con vent, which constitute the cemetery of the friars. The earth was originally brought from Jerusalem. The walls are covered with bones and skulls, fantas tically arranged ; several skeletons are standing erect in the robes of the order. Whenever one of the friars dies, he is buried in the oldest grave, from which the bones of the last occupant are removed to this general ossuarium. The adjoining convent is the head quarters of the Capuchin Friars, so widely distributed over the Roman Catholic world, and the residence of the General of the Order. Annexed to it is a large garden, which adjoins the grounds of the Villa Ludovisi. S. Carlo a Catinari, so called from the manufacturers of catini or dishes and earthenware in general, who lived in the vicinity. The ch. was built in 1612, from the designs of Rosati and Soria. The cupola is one of the highest in proportion to its diameter in Rome, and is celebrated for the 4 frescoes on the spandrils of the cupola, by Domenichino, representing the Cardinal Virtues, Prudence, Justice, Temper ance, and Fortitude. In the choir, opening out of the sacristy, is a half-figure of S. Carlo, in fresco, by Guido, formerly on the facade of the ch. Over the high altar is the large picture representing the Procession of S. Carlo bearing the Sudario during the Plague at Milan, by Pietro da Cortona. The vault above is painted by Lan franco. The death of St. Anna, in the second chapel on the 1., is the master piece of Andrea Sacchi. The Annun ciation, in the first chapel on the rt., is by Lanfranco. S. Carlo in the Corso, the national ch. of the Lombards, with a heavy, ill- portioned front. The interior is from the designs of Martino Lunghi (1614), completed by Pietro da C6rtona: it consists of a nave and side aisles di vided by Corinthian pilasters, and is handsome. At the high altar is the large picture of S. Carlo Borromeo in glory, with St. Ambrose and S. Sebastian, considered to be one of the best works of Carlo Maratta. The rich chapel of the rt. transept has a mosaic copy of the Assumption, by the same painter, now in the Cibo chapel at S. Maria del Popolo ; the statue of David, is by Pietro Pacilli ; and that of Judith, by Lebrun. The painting of St. Barnabas in the next chapel is by Francesco Mola. On the floor of the nave and near the pulpit is the slab tomb of count Ales sandro Verri, the author of the ' Notti Romane,' who died at Rome in 1816. The festival of S. Carlo Borromeo, on the 4th November, is celebrated with great pomp here, high mass being performed at 10 a.m. by a cardinal priest, in the presence of the pope and the sacred college. S. Caterina dei Funari, near the Pa lazzo Mattei, at the foot of the Capitol, and on the site of the Flaminian Circus. The front, erected at the expense of Card. Cesi, is a good specimen of the architecture of the 18th centy. There is little worthy of notice in the interior. The name of Funari given to this ch. is derived from its being built on the rope-walk, into which a part of the Flaminian Circus had been converted. S. Caterina di Siena, on the ascent from the Piazza Trajano to the Quiri nal. A very handsome ch., decorated with coloured marbles, gilding, and 150 § 25. CHURCHES — S. CECILIA. Rome. stuccoes. It is attached to an ex tensive convent of Dominican nuns. The anniversary of the marriage of St. Catherine is celebrated here on Feb. 3, when amongst other relics one of her shoulder-bones is exhibited. The huge mediaeval tower, called the Torre delle Milizie, is included within the convent grounds. S. Cecilia, at the extremity of the Trastevere, near the Quay of la Ripa Grande, built on the site of the house of the patron saint. Its foundation dates from 230, in the pontificate of Urban I. It was rebuilt by Paschal I., in the form of one of the smaller basilicas, in 821, and entirely restored and re duced to its present form by Card. Sfron- dati in 1599, and subsequently redeco rated by Card. Doria, as we now see it, in 1725, when the ranges of columns which formed the nave ofthe original ch. were built round and converted into the present heavy pilasters to support the roof ; and the gallery, with its marble columns, enclosed so as to form thegrated cells, where the nuns can assist at the ceremonies ofthe ch. without being seen from below. In the fore-court is an antique marble vase or cantharus, which stood in the quadriporticus ofthe primi tive basilica. The portico which pre cedes the ch. has on the frieze some early arabesques in mosaic, with portraits of saints, supposed to date from the 9th cen tury. On each side of the cross which forms the centre are rude likenesses of St. Cecilia. Entering the ch., and on the rt. of the door, is the tomb of Cardinal Adam, of Hertford, who was administrator of the diocese of Lon don (ob. 1398) and titular cardinal of this ch. This prelate, a very learned man, took part in the opposition to Urban VI., and, having been arrested, with five other cardinals, at Lucera, was carried by that vindictive pope to Genoa : he alone was saved by the interference of the English crown, the others being barbarously put to death in the convent of S. Giovanni di Pre, where their remains were discovered a few years ago. On the sarcophagus are the arms of England, at that time 3 leopards and fleurs-de-lis quartered. On the 1. ofthe entrance is the handsome urn of Cardinal Fortiguerra (ob. 1473), who played an active part in the contests of Pius II. and Paul II. with theMalatestas in the Romagna, the Savellis, and the Counts of Anguillara, in the 15th cent. The body of St. Cecilia, which lay originally in the catacombs of St. Calisto, from which it was removed by Paschal I. to this ch., is deposited in the Confession beneath the high altar ; the silver urn in which it had been placed disappeared during the first French occupation. The re cumbent statue of St. Cecilia, by Stefano Maderno, is one of the most expressive and beautiful specimens of sculpture which the 17th century has produced. It represents the body of the saint in her grave-clothes, in the position in which it is de scribed to have been found when her tomb was opened. At the extremity of the rt. aisle, and near a chapel with a cinquecento bas-relief of the Virgin and Child, is a painting of St. Cecilia appearing to Paschal I., to make known where her remains lay in the catacombs, where they had been deposited by S. Ur.banus : it stood under the outer por tico in former times, and is supposed to be as old as the 9th cent. The tribune, the least altered part of the original ch., contains an ancient episcopal seat and some curious mosaics which belonged to the ch. as it was rebuilt by Pas chal I. in the 9th century. Those on the vault represent Our Saviour holding a scroll in one hand, and giving his benediction with the other, having St. Paul, St. Cecilia, and St. Paschal on one side, and St. Peter, St. Valerian, and St. Agata. Over the head of \he Saviour is a handsome hand grasping a wreath, and on the arch the mono gram of Paschal I. ; below a lamb and 6 sheep on either side, emblematical of the Saviour and Apostles. The high- altar, placed on a raised presbytery over the Confession, is beneath a very hand some Gothic canopy in white marble, supported by 4 columns ofthe beautiful nero-bianco marble. The paintings on the roof of the nave are by Seb. Conca. From the extremity of the rt. aisle, near the entrance, a pass age leads to the chapel of Santa Ce- Sect. I. § 25. S. CLEMENTE. 151 cilia, erected in a part of the house in which she lived, and which appears, from the traces of a furnace and leaden pipes, to have been connected with a bath-room. The martyrdom of the saint over the altar here has been at tributed to Guido ; the landscapes are by Paul Brill, but a good deal injured by damp. The adjoining monastery, one ofthe largest in Rome, is inhabited by nuns of the order of St. Benedict. The ch. of St. Cecilia, except on feast- days, is closed at an early hour in the forenoon. The feast of the saint (Nov. 22) is celebrated with great pomp and fine music; and on the 2nd Wednesday in Lent the numerous relics pos sessed by the nuns are exposed, with a. grand display of mediaeval reli- quiaries and plate. The outside of the apse, and a portion of the nave towards the Via di S. Maria in Orto, preserves unaltered the style of the 9th century. The square and massive bell-tower is probably of a later period. The catacombs of San Callisto, on the Via Appia, where the remains of St. Cecilia were first laid, are lighted up on Nov. 22, and much resorted to. San Cesareo, called in Palatio, from its vicinity to what was the palace and baths of Caracalla, a ch. on the rt. of the Via Appia, at the bifurcation of the Via Latina, and a short way before reaching the Porta St. Sebastiano. It has much the form of its neighbour SS. Nereo ed Achilleo (p. 185). It is prin cipally remarkable for its raised pres bytery", enclosed by a marble screen. Behind the high altar is an ancient episcopal chair, ornamented with mo saics ; its marble pulpit stands on torse columns decorated with mosaics and heads of sphinxes, sheep, &c, in relief. The more modern mosaic ofthe tribune is from designs by Cav. Arpino. San Clemente, in the valley between the Caelian and Esquiline hills, and in the street leading from the Coliseum to the Lateran. This ch., long considered as one of the most ancient and un altered of the early Christian edifices of Rome, has lost a good deal of its interest from the recent discovery of a still more ancient one beneath, and to which the history hitherto attributed to the modern in many parts applies : still the present ch. offers much worthy of notice in its architectural imitation of the one that preceded it, and the works of art which it contains. According to the traditions of the Church, Clement, San Clemente. (Upper Church.) A. Entrance to B. Atrium, and &. Quadri- porticus, c. Entrance to monastery. C. Nave. ! D. Choir. 1, 2. Ambones. 3. Ancient marble screen. 4. High altar. E. Presbytery and Tribune. 5. Episcopal chair. 6, 1, 8, 9. Chapels of St. John, of the Rosary, of the Passion of our Saviour, and of St. Dominick. a. Side entrance to the ch. from the street. b. Entrance to the sacristy and subterranean ch. 152 § 25. CHURCHES — S. CLEMENTE. Rome. the third Bishop of Rome, the fellow- labourer of St. Paul, and a member of the Flavian family, by some indeed considered the nephew of Flavius Cle mens, an Imperial Christian martyr, erected an oratory in his own house on the Esquiline; this was probably enlarged from time to time after the Peace of the Church,* until it was replaced by a basilica of considerable magnitude, possibly that which has been laid open by the recent exca vations ; it was in this that Gregory the Great must have read his 32nd and 38th homilies as we are told, as it was to it that St. Jerome must have referred in his writings. This ancient ch., however, had been long forgotten, until, in the lattermonths of 1857, some repairs having become necessary in the adjoining convent, which belongs to the Irish Dominicans, its zealous and very intelligent prior, Father Mullooly, came upon a wall covered with very ancient paintings, at a level of nearly 20 ft. below the modern ch. ; further research showed that this was the aisle of a very extensive edifice, and that it stood on massive construc tions of a Pagan period, some, probably, of the early times of the Empire. So interesting was the discovery consi dered, that researches on an extensive scale were undertakeu under the direc tion of the prior, which up to the pre sent time have resulted in the clearing out of both the aisles and a large por tion of the nave, and in opening out the line of columns which divided them, and in tracing a considerable area of the Roman edifice, upon which it as well as the more modern ch. rested. A visit to those subterranean disco veries will greatly interest the Chris tian archajologist ; they can be easily reached by a commodious flight of steps from the sacristy; and not being considered as within the precincts of the convent, ladies are admitted on ap plication to the sacristan in charge of the modern ch. * Writers on Church History designate under this name the period after Constantine's con version, when religious persecution ceased, and the celebration openly of Christian worship was permitted in public. It is impossible to fix with pre cision the date of the older basilica, or of the more modern one which stands upon it : all that is mentioned in history as regards the former is, that it was considerably restored in the 8th centy. (a.d. 772) by Adrian I. ; and, as we shall hereafter see, it is probable that John II. erected the choir in the 6th cent., which, on the completion of a subsequent ch., was removed to it. It was probably destroyed in 1084, when Robert Guiscard burned all the public edifices from the Lateran to the Capitol. With respect to the upper ch., it pro bably does not date from beyond the 12th cent., when it is mentioned as having been nearly rebuilt by Paschal II. (1099-1118), although, from its containing the choir with the supposed monogram of John II, , its construction had been attributed to that pontiff, whereas it is all but certain that the choir formerly stood in the older ch., and was removed here when the present one was built. The oldest fixed record in the upper ch., the mosaics on the vault of the tribune, are of the end of the 13th centy. We shall now proceed to describe the different parts of this interesting church, commencing with the upper one, and its atrium. The atrium and quadriporticus are the only perfect at present in Rome, although traces of similar ones are to be seen adjoining other early churches: * it is 62 ft. by 50, and sur rounded on 3 of its sides by granite columns with Ionic capitals. In the pavement are numerous fragments of green Ophite porphyry, derived from some Roman edifice in the vicinity : the Cantharus or vase for ablution before entering the ch. has been replaced by a fountain. The entrance to this atrium is by a gate, over which rises a Gothic * S. Cecilia, SS. Quattro Coronati. In these atria the poor asked for alms from the faithful, as penitents implored their prayers ; here those who had incurred penance, exposed to wind and rain, and hence called Hyemnomtes, were obliged to remain until they were permitted to return to the ch., the quadriportlci were also used as places of interment before it was allowed within the sacred edifices themselves. Sect. I. § 25. S. CLEMENTE. 153 canopy ofthe 13th centy. ; flanked by rude Ionic and composite columns. The style of this door is barbarous, and the jambs formed of marble slabs having dissimilarly sculptured tracings on each of its fragments, showing that they were derived from a much more an cient Christian edifice, and very care lessly put together.* The ch. consists of a nave, separated from the aisles by 1 6 ancient columns of different ma terials and orders. The aisles are of unequal width, that on the right being the narrowest by some feet, from the circumstance of the side wall resting on the line of columns ofthe subjacent ch., which the builders of the modern one selected for its foundation. In front of the tribune and high altar, but standing in the middle of the nave, is the curious choir, enclosed by walls of marble, having sculptured on them, in addition to other Christian emblems, the supposed monogram of Pope John II., who reigned from 532 to 535, from which it was concluded that the whole edifice in which it stands dated from that period ; but from the careless manner in which the blocks are adjusted and the wall on which they stand run up in so rude a manner, it is now generally believed that this choir once stood in the basilica beneath, from which it was removed when, for some unexplained reason — for history is entirely silent, as we have already stated, on the subject — the latter was abandoned. On the sides of the choir are the Ambonesf or pul pits: from that on the 1. (1), which is ascended to by a double stair, with a * The present quadriporticus, although retain ing probably Its primitive plan and dimensions, was originally surrounded by pilasters, as we see on the E. side ; the open portico of Ionic columns is of a more recent date. There is every reason for supposing, as we now see it, that it dates from the construction of the ad joining ch. by Pascal II. T The visitor will remark how these ambones occupy different sides from what is seen in the few churches of Rome where such monuments are still preserved. Thus in the churches of Sta. Maria In Cosmedin (p. 173), and San Lorenzo fuori le Mura, the Gospel ambo, with its adjacent candelabrum, is on the rt. hand looking towards the high altar, another reason for supposing how carelessly the choir of S. Clemente had been set up when removed from the church beneath. handsome candelabrum in mosaic-work alongside for the Paschal candle, the Gospel was read; whilst from the op posite one, with reading-places turned towards the tribune and the nave, the Epistle was read and the papal edicts published. The presbytery is sepa rated from the choir by a screen of sculptured marble panels, of the same period as the choir, but put together in a still more careless manner, and evidently intended for another place. In front of the tribune stands the high altar, beneath which lie the remains of Flavius Clemens, of SS. Clement and Ignatius of Antioch. In the centre of the presbytery is a marble episcopal seat, having engraved on it the name of Anastasius, who was titular Car dinal of the ch. in 1 1 08. The wall and vault of the tribune are covered with mosaics of two periods — those on the face of the arch are probably contem poraneous with the reconstruction of the ch. by Paschal II., whilst those upon the vault, from an inscription placed over the Ciborium, were executed in 1297, at the expense of Cardinal Tomassio, a nephew of Boniface VIII. : the latter represent our Saviour on the Cross surrounded by handsome arabesques, interspersed with small figures — amongst others, of the 4 great doctors of the Church — ¦ SS. Jerome, Augustin, Ambrose, and Gregory. At the foot pf the Cross issue the 4 rivers of Paradise, with shepherds and their flocks, and birds, especially peacocks, one of the Chris tian emblems of immortality. The mosaics on the face of the arch are more interesting still. Above is the Saviour, having on either side 2 angels and the emblems of the 4 Evangelists. Below are SS. Peter and Clement, with Jeremiah on one side, SS. Paul, Law rence, and Isaiah on the other ; and lower down still, the holy cities Beth lehem and Jerusalem, with the mystic lamb and sheep, emblematical of our Lord and the 12 Apostles. The hand, with a wreath of flowers, in the clouds is probably of the same period, here, as elsewhere, the emblem of the Al mighty power. The fresco paintings on the walls beneath have been attri- H 3 154 § 25. CHURCHES — S. CLEMENTE. Rome. buted to Giovenale da Orvicto, or da Ce- lano, who lived about a.d. 1400. In the Chapel of the Sacrament, on the rt. of the tribune, the statue of St. John the Baptist is by Simone, the brother of Donatello; and in the corresponding one of the Rosary, on the opposite side, the picture of the Virgin is by Seb. Conca. The good sepulchral monu ment of Cardinal Venerio (ob. 1479) A. Entrance from the Sacristy of Upper Church. B. Narthex of ancient Basilica. C. Nave. D, D. Aisles. E. Primitive Tribune or Apse. F, G. Supposed chambers of the House of Clement, possibly his Oratory, beneath the Apse, and opening on M, or Ambu latory, and on N, a large chamber, supposed to be an iEdes of Mithras of the age of Hadrian. H. Supposed site of Tomb of S. Cyril. I. Entrance to stairs leading to Oratory of Clement. J. Massive wall of Republican period. K. Altar of Mithra, found in chamber E. L. Modern Altai*. M. Ambulatory. N. Shrine of the god Mithras. Paintings on the Walls of Sub. tekbanean basilica. 1. Of S. Catherine of Alexandria ; 2. of the Virgin; 3. of a Council; 4. of Our Saviour; 5. of the Crucifixion of S. Peter ; 6. Baptism of S. Cyril ; 7. Mi racle of S. Libertinus; 8. Miracle of Sicinus; 9, 10. of S. Antoninus, and Daniel among the Lions ; 1 1. Life and Death of S. Alexius; 12, 13. S. Giles and S. Blasius ; 14. S. Prosperius ; 15. Crucinxia; 16. the Maries at the Se pulchre ; 17. the Assumption of the Virgin ; 18. Translation of the Relics of S. Clement from the Vatican to this church; 19. Miracle at the Tomb of S. Clement at Kherson ; 20. Christ Igiving his Benediction, with Saints; 21, 22. very ancient male figures, pro bably of the Imperial period. San Clemente. (Lower Church.) has two handsome half-columns, with basket-work capitals and covered with foliage reliefs. The Chapel of the Pas sion, on the 1. of the great entrance, retains its pointed architecture of the 13th centy., and has on its walls the once interesting frescoes by Massaccio, representing the Crucifixion and other events in the lives of our Saviour, of St. Clement, and St. Catherine of Alex andria. They have suffered much from restoration. The chief subjects are — outside the arch, The Annuncia tion, and St. Christopher carrying the infant Christ over the stream ; within, St. Catherine forced to Idolatry; her Instruction of the daughter of king Maximilian in prison ; her Dispute with the Alexandrian Doctors before Maximilian ; the Miracle of her Deli verance ; her final Martyrdom, with her burial and transport to heaven by angels in the background. Opposite is the History of St. Clement, and over the altar the Crucifixion of our Lord. In the rt. aisle, near the high altar Sect. I. § 25. S. CLEMENTE. 155 and the chapel of St. John the Baptist, is the tomb of Cardinal Roverella, bearing the date of 1476. Let us now descend into the lower ch., reached from the Sacristy by wide stairs, which open into the Narthex (the walls of which are covered with ancient inscriptions and sculptures dis covered during the recent excavations), aisle, and nave : the outer side of the former consists of a massive brick wall of fine ancient masonry, the inner of a range of 8 columns of divers marbles, the most remarkable being one of verde antico, a magnificent specimen, the other of breccia coral- lina. On the stucco of the wall of the rt. aisle are several traces of paintings, the best preserved being, in a niche, figures of the Virgin and Child, with two females, one probably St. Catherine ; a large figure of Christ in the act of giving the benediction, the head un fortunately destroyed; the whole of this side of the aisle appears to have been covered with paintings, of which it is difficult to fix the period with any degree of certainty ; by some they have been referred to the 7th or 8th centy., when the ch. was restored by Adrian I., whilst, from the absence of the nimbus round the heads of many of the figures, others suppose they belong to an earlier period. A range of columns separated this aisle from the nave ; on them had been erected, as upon a foundation, the outer wall of the ch. above ; pene trating beyond them into the nave, a more modern wall was discovered, which supported the columns of the rt. aisle of the modern church. At one extremity of the narthex are marks of a door opening on what ap pears to have been the ancient quadri- porticus,* like the ch. nearly 20 ft. below the level of the modern one. Here two sarcophagi were found, now removed into the narthex, which would indicate a very early period of interment within the walls of the * San Clemente, i.e. the lower church, had evidently 3 doors opening probably from the quadriporticus, aswc see in nearly all the smaller basilicas, and especially of the earliest periods — St. Agnese fuori le Mura, like which It has the same number of columns in the nave. It is very possible it had also an upper or triforium gallery. sacred edifice. Portions of the marble pavement were also discovered, amongst others an inscription bearing the name of two consuls of the time of Constantine. At the opposite ex tremity of the N. aisle a few steps lead to the raised tribune, a part of the floor of which alone remains. A painting of Christ liberating Adam from Hades, at tributed by De Rossi to the 7th centy., is seen on a pier at the extremity ofthe N. aisle. Beneath the floor of this N. aisle are several chambers of the Ro man period, the whole resting on an extensive area cased with huge blocks of volcanic tufa, having a kind of cornice in travertine, of a construction resembling that of the Forum of Au gustus (p. 26.) There is reason to attribute these substructions to the outer wall of a very extensive edifice of the early period of the Empire. It may have belonged to the house of Maecenas, or to the Mint or Moneta, which were situated hereabouts, al though some of the Roman antiquaries suppose it much more ancient, even to be as old as the walls of Servius Tullius. In some ancient chambers behind the apse have been discovered traces of elegant stucco-work ; an in scription bearing the name of Rv- finvs. The latest discovery behind the apse, is that of a sacellum or chapel dedicated to the worship of the Divinity Mithras : this has been fully excavated by Father Mullooly, and an altar found here has been re placed on its basis. It bears a bas- relief of Mithras sacrificing the bull, probably concealed here from the public view when that superstitious worship was forbidden. There is reason for supposing the largest of these chambers to have been the Memoria or Oratory of St. Clement. Close to this is a modern entrance that opens upon an ancient Roman stairs leading into a series of rooms beneath the apse of the primitive ch., one of which, previously men tioned, is supposed to have been the Oratory of the Saint, alluded to by St. Jerome. In other rooms near this has been discovered a statue of St. Peter in the character of the Good Shepherd. The visitor may descend 156 § 25. CHURCHES — S. CLEMENTE. Rome. along the wall of massive blocks for about 30 yards, which will bring him into the southern aisle ; here, on the walls, he will observe some fragments of paintings, which are supposed to have represented the 12 Apostles, one of the most curious being the feet of a figure turned upwards, very probably of St. Peter on the Cross ; adjoining are mutilated groups which are believed to form part of a large composition relative to St. Cyril, who was probably buried in the neighbouring empty brick tomb at the S.W. corner of the aisle. The S. aisle is of the same form and dimensions as that on the opposite side of the Basilica, its outer walls having been also painted, and separated from the nave by a line of columns of dif ferent marbles, some of which have, however disappeared; all have been built into massive square pilasters, on which exist, in excellent preserva tion, paintings of great interest, both as works of art and as elucidating facts in Church history. On that nearest the apse, a series of 3 sub jects representing the induction of St. Clement into the Papal chair by St. Peter surrounded by other saints, all having their names annexed ; the same Clement celebrating mass, very curious, as showing that the ecclesi astical vestments of the time differed little from those now used in the sacred ceremonies ; and the erection of the ch., with the names of several individuals. According to the inscrip tion beneath, the person who dedi cated some of these paintings was a certain Beno de Rapiza : now, as the name of that personage is mentioned in some local chronicles as an inha bitant of this quarter of the city in 1080, it may be presumed that they were executed towards the end of the 11th cent., soon before the supposed de struction of the basilica in 1084 by R. Guiscard. The representation of the erection of the ch., on which are several figures with their names, especially of a certain Sisinus, who is known to have lived in the reign of Trajan, is worthy of notice. On other parts of this pilaster is Daniel in the lions' den farther on, upon a similar pier, envelop- ing also a column, are paintings of events in the life of St. Alexius, who, abandoning his paternal home to follow a life of penitence and charity, returns to it to die, in the presence of his father the Senator Euphemianus and of his family ; of St. Antoninus, probably the martyr of that name who suffered in the reign of Diocletian ; and of St. Blasius, who is represented extracting a thorn from the mouth of a child. The paint ings on both these pilasters are in the same, almost Byzantine style ; and the inscriptions beneath in well-formed Roman letters ; the arabesque orna ments that surround them graceful. At the eastern extremity of the nave are the columns of the narthex, showing that the ch. was in the style ofthe Con- stantinian basilicas of S. Agnese (p. 139) and San Lorenzo (p. 135); but they had been built up also in walls, and their surface covered with paint ings. Looking towards the nave are several sacred subjects : the As sumption of the Virgin, with the Apostles below, and on each side figures of a pope — Leo, probably St. Leo IV., and St. Vitus. As the former has a square green halo round the head, it is concluded he was alive when the painting was executed, in the middle of the 9th cent. (845-57). The other paintings here, possibly of an earlier date, are the Crucifixion, with the Virgin and St. John the Evangelist at the foot of the Cross; the Supper at Cana ; Christ releasing 2 persons, supposed to be Adam and Eve, from Hades ; and the Maries round the Saviour's empty tomb. At the extremity of the 1. aisle near here, and beneath the chapel of the Passion in the ch. above, have been uncovered some paintings which ap pear to be of the 9th or 10th centy. On the pier a mutilated figure of St. Prosperius, with the name. This saint, a native of Aquitaine, and a great admirer of St. Jerome, was a strong advocate against the Pela gian heresy, which was condemned in this ch. by St. Zozimus in 411 ; the principal supporter of the Pelagian I doctrines being a certain Celestius, who is mentioned by St. Jerome as Sect. I. § 25. S. CLEMENTE. 157 feeding on Scotch porridge, Pulptibus Scotorium. On the walls are 3 subjects relative to the legend of St. Libertinus, which are mentioned in the 1st Book of St. Gregory's Dialogues. The Abbot of Fondi's appearing before him to ask his pardon for having mal treated him; St. L. resuscitating a dead Child near Ravenna ; and his discovery and pardon of robbers in the Convent garden. All these paintings appear to belong to an earlier and ruder period than those on the piers of the nave.* On the opposite side of this wall, forming one of the sides of the narthex, are two large composi tions, one representing the removal of the body of a saint from the Vatican : from the inscriptions beneath, it is sup posed of St. Cyril in a.d. 863, in the time of S. Nicholas I.f The painting is well preserved, and, from the inscrip tion on it, was executed for a certain Maria Macellaria : its style being simi lar to that of St. Alexius, it probably dates from the same period. In a cor responding position, on the rt. side of the entrance from the narthex to the nave, is another painting of consider able interest representing a miracle operated at the tomb of St. Cle ment, the cure of a widow's child that had been laid near the tomb of the saint, and which is mentioned in the legend of Clement. The site of the miracle was at the town of Cher- son, in the Crimea, where he was buried. The painting represents the sepulchral urn, on which tapers are burning, with the child raised by the widowed mother ; on one side is a procession of tonsured priests with a * Photographs of all these paintings, made from accurate drawings, may be procured in the Sacristy at S. Clemente. as well as anotice on the ' History of the Excavations,' by Father Mullooly, and a more detailed work in English (' St. Clement and his Basilica in Rome,' 1 vol., Svo.) by the same learned prior. Another very learned description of S. Clemente has just been published (Feb. 1871) by Cav. de Rossi, in which all the more recent discoveries have been described : it is of great interest. t St. Cyril, the patron of the Sclavonic Church, who died at Rome A.D. 863, was first buried at St. Peter's, from which his remains were transferred to S. Clemente. For his life, see Leger's 'Etude sur Cyrille et Methode,' Paris, 1868. bishop at their head, issuing from the gate of a town, on which is written the word Cersona, evidently Kerson, near the modern tnkermann and Se- bastopol. At the side of the tomb is the instrument of the martyrdom of St. Clement, who was hurled into the sea, an anchor attached to his neck. There are several inscriptions, the most interesting being that of Beno de Rapiza and his wife, who caused the painting to be executed ; beneath is a large head of St. Clement, with a nimbus; and on the sides, figures of Beno de Rapiza and his wife, with two of their children, Clement and Altilia. The arabesque paintings round this fresco are elegant ; the whole composi tion is surrounded by the sea, to indi cate which numerous marine animals, cuttle fish, and ordinary fishes are intro duced. A most curious painting fills the space between two of the columns of the outer wall of the narthex. It represents our Saviour in the centre, a remarkably fine head, perhaps the best of the early representations of our Lord ; the head surrounded by a broad nimbus, holding in the 1. hand a book, and with the rt. giving his benedic tion ; but not according to the Roman manner, but as practised in the Greek Church. Before him, on each side, stand the Archangels Michael and Ga briel, with their names above, present ing 2 tonsured personages, supposed to be Cyril and his brother St. Metho dius ; and on either side of the latter, SS. Andrew and Clement, full-length figures, with their names in vertical lines, the name of the latter being written with a terminal e as by modern Italians. A long devotional inscription beneath is so injured as to be almost illegible. Cav. de Rossi supposes this painting to be of the 10th centy., and those, of two heads, on the brick wall, beyond, to belong to the primitive ch. of S. Clement, and to date from the 4 th, although one of them, a female, has re mains of a halo round the head. On all these paintings are numerous graffite or scratched inscriptions of persons, chiefly priests, who visited this part of the basilica. As Nicholas I. made considerable additions to the ch., it is 158 § 25. CHURCHES — S. COSMA — S. COSIMATO. R ome. not improbable that the monogram on the walls of the marble choir in the ch. above, hitherto attributed to Pope John II. (a.d. 532-535) is that of St. Nicholas. On the walls of the narthex have been placed several Roman and Christian inscriptions, discovered during the excavations. It is evident, therefore, that there existed a very extensive Christian basilica at this lower level, founded on Pagan constructions of the early Imperial if not Republican period ; that, this basilica having been destroyed and the aisles and nave filled up with rubbish, the modern ch. rose upon it, probably under Paschal II. (1099-1118) who was titular cardinal before his elec tion to the Papacy, which took place in it; and that the latter resembled in form, though with diminished dimen sions, in width particularly, the more an cient one. It is singular that no men tion exists in ecclesiological history of the destruction of the lower ch. or the erection of the upper one; it is probable, however, that, when that de struction took place, the difficulty of erecting so wide a roof as would have been necessary to cover a nave of the di mensions of the older ch. obliged Pas chal II., if he was the founder of the upper one, to adopt the lesser dimen sions we now see ofthe nave ; and that it was then that the choir of the time of John II., with its ambones and Paschal candelabrum, were removed to where we now see them. A handsome altar, under a canopy supported by elegant columns of marble, has been erected beneath that in the upper church, under which are placed the relics of St. Ignatius, with those of St. Clement recently dis covered. Behind this altar a door leads to an excavated space where may be seen a portion of the apse of the primitive church, once covered with marble slabs. The excavations at S. Clemente are open on application at the Sacristy. As the progress of the works is en tirely dependent on the assistance of the public, it is expected that visitors will make a donation towards enabling Dr. Mullooly to continue them. His Holiness Pius IX. has from his private purse been a most generous contributor, and given every encouragement to our worthy countryman the prior, whilst the English visitors to Rome have been very liberal in their offerings towards this most interesting amongst the recent ecclesiological discoveries of Rome, — none more so, and on more than one occasion, than H.R.H. the Prince of Wales ; a book in which contributors put down their names will be found in the sacristy. The sub terranean basilica is brilliantly lighted upon the feasts of St. Clement (Nov. 23) and St. Ignatius (Feb. 1), and on the 2nd Monday in Lent, the most favour able occasions for visiting it, &c. SS. Cosma e Damiano, a very ancient ch., built near the site of a Temple of Remus, noticed under that head in the description of the Antiquities (p. 45). Over the tribune is an ancient mosaic, supposed to date from a.d. 530, the por tion on the face of the inner arch repre senting in the centre the mystic Lamb on a throne, upon which is a Cross and an open book, between the seven candlesticks, angels, and what remains of the emblems of the Evangelists, for the lateral portion of this mosaic, in every respect similar to that at S. Prassede (p. 191), has been destroyed; the mosaics on the vault, with the figure of the Saviour in the centre, to whom 6 figures, 2 in white togas, supposed to be SS. Peter and Paul, are presenting SS. Cosmus and Dami- anus, whilst S. Felix holding his ch., and S. Theodoras, are of posterior date, and have been much restored. The band beneath, of the mystic hand and 12 sheep, are emblematical of our Saviour and the Apostles. San Cosimato, or more properly SS. Cosma e Damiano in Trastevere, not far from S. Calisto in that quarter, a ch. attached to a large convent of Nuns of St. Claire. The present edifice was erected in 1475, by Sixtus IV., the facade of a gable form, and possibly from designs of Baccio Pintelli. Over the high altar is a miracle-working image ofthe Virgin, and on the 1. a fresco repre senting the Virgin enthroned, with SS. Francis and Claire, a work of the Umbrian school, which has been attri- Sect. I. § 25. S. COSTANZA — S. ORISOGONO. 15'J buted to Pinturicchio. In a chapel off the 1. aisle is an altar decorated with good Renaissance bas-reliefs brought from the Cibo chapel in Santa Maria del Popolo. Before the ch. is a fore court in which stands a large granite urn once used as a bath ; the Gothic gateway by which the fore-court is entered is ofthe 11th or 12th century. S. Costanza, beyond the Porta Pia, near the ch. of S. Agnese, erroneously considered by the older antiquaries to have been a temple of Bacchus. It was built by Constantine as a baptistery, in which the two Constantias, his sister and daughter, are supposed to have been baptized. The building is circu lar, 73 ft. in diameter, surrounded by 24 coupled granite columns with Corinthian capitals supporting the drum of the cupola. The vault of the circular aisle between the range of columns and the outer wall is covered with mosaics of animals and birds ; some of the latter — pheasants, guinea-fowl, and partridges — very cor rectly represented, with vine-leaves and bunches of grapes, and different operations ofthe vintage, which gave rise to the idea that it had belonged originally to a temple of Bacchus. But, independently of the evidence afforded by the style of architecture and the construction of the build ing, which belong clearly to the de cline of art, the porphyry sarco phagus of the family of Constantine, which was removed from the recess behind the altar to the museum of the Vatican by Pius VI., is covered with bacchanalian symbols ofthe same kind, which are now well known to have been frequently adopted as emblems by the early Christians. The festoons of grapes and pomegranates surround ing the mosaic of Christ, with 2 of the apostles on the side doors, are of a much later period, probably of the 8th century. As works of art they are greatly inferior to the mosaics on the vault. The columns were evi dently taken from ancient edifices. The capitals are richly worked. It was consecrated as a ch. by Alexander IV., in the 13th century, and dedicated to St. Constantia, whose remains were then removed from this porphyry urn, and deposited, with the relics of other saints, under the altar in the centre of the edifice. Beyond but near to this ch. is an oblong enclosure, formerly called the Hippodrome of Constantine. It is now shown to have been a Chris tian cemetery, connected with the basi lica of St. Agnese. San Crisogono, an interesting ch. in the Trastevere, which is supposed to date from the time of Constantine the Great, and dedicated to St. Chrysogonus, who suffered martyrdom at Aquileja under Diocletian ; it was rebuilt in 731 by Gregory III., and restored in its pre sent form by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, in 1623, after the designs of Soria. The interior, like the neighbouring more magnificent edifice of Sta. Maria in Trastevere, consists of a nave and 2 aisles, separated by 22 fine granite co lumns, supposed to have belonged to the baths of Sept. Severus, with modern Ionic capitals. The arch before the tribune is supported by 2 very large columns of red porphyry. The high altar is under a canopy resting on columns of modern grey alabaster, only remarkable for their size. The mosaics which covered the vault of the tribune have disappeared, except a fragment of the Virgin and Child, with SS. Chrysogonus and James ; the others have been replaced by gilt bas- reliefs. The central portion of the floor of the nave is formed of a well- preserved specimen of mediaeval opus Alexandrinum. In the centre of the highly decorated roof is a copy of Guercino's picture of the patron saint borne to heaven by angels (the original is now in the Duke of Suther land's gallery in England); and over the Tabernacle, the Virgin and Child, by Cav. Arpino. The other pictures here are little worthy of notice. Before the ch. is a portico supported by 4 Doric columns of oriental granite. Stephen Langton, who filled the see of Canter bury at one of the most interesting pe riods of our history, was titular cardinal of this ch. The mediaeval bell-tower has been modernized and whitewashed. The adjoining convent of the Order of the Cruciferi has been lately rebuilt 160 § 25. CHURCHES — S. CROCE. Rome, by a devout Roman lady, the Princess Odescalchi, in return for her cure from a supposed malady by the intercession of one of the members of the Order. In the Via di Monte di Ferro, open ing out of the Piazza di S. Crisogono, have been discovered, at a considerable depth below the surface, remains of an ancient edifice, the floors of which are covered with mosaics representing ma rine monsters, &c, with a pentagonal water cistern in the centre, the walls of the entire edifice being painted, espe cially the small recessed iEdiculus or Lararium. On these walls are numerous scratched inscriptions (Graffite) which render it probable that the edifice served as a barrack of the 7th Legion of the Vigili or Firemen, who were quartered here in the reign of Alexander Severus. (In a narrow lane off the neighbour ing Via di Lungaretta is the mediaeval Torre dei Forti, on the summit of which, during the Epiphany week, is exhibited acurious representation of our Saviour's Nativity, which is much resorted to, especially by mothers and their chil dren. This tower belonged to the Auguillara family, a branch of the Orsinis, who, in the middle ages, were powerful in the Trastevere). 4. Basilica of Santa Croce in Geru- salemme, the 4th of the Roman basilicas, was founded in 331 by Constantine, on the siteof the Sessorian Palace of Sextus Varius, the father of Elagabalus, from which it is also called the Sessorian Ba silica. It is close to the Amphitheatrum Castrense. It derives its present name from the portion of the true cross de posited in it by the Empress Helena, and from the earth from Jerusalem which was brought here and mixed with the foundations. It was consecrated by St. Silvester, and was entirely repaired by Gregory II. in the 8th century. The bell-tower dates from 1196. It underwent frequent alterations under later popes, and was reduced into its present form by Benedict XIV. in 1774. It scarcely preserves any trace of its original form. The facade and the oval vestibule were then added, and some of the columns were cased with masonry, forming piers to support the roof. Eight of the original columns, 3 of which are fine masses of red Egyptian granite, the others of grey, all with composite capitals, still remain, and divide the nave from the two aisles. The high altar is remarkable for the ancient urn in green basalt, with 4 lions' heads, in which the remains of SS. Caesarius and Anastasius are de posited. Two of the 4 columns which support the baldacchino are of the rare marble called Breccia Corallina. The vault of the tribune is covered with frescoes representing the Discovery of the Cross, and the transfer of a por tion of it by St. Helena to this church. The author is unknown : Pinturic chio has been supposed, but on very doubtful authority, to have painted them, from some of the heads being repetitions of those in the frescoes at Spello (see Handbook for Cent. Italy). They were probably executed by some of his pupils. Underneath and behind the choir, and reached by stairs on the 1., is the chapel of St. Helena, the roof of which is de corated with mosaics of the 16th century, attributed to Baldassare Pe- ruzzi ; they replaced others said to have been of the time of Valentinian III. ; the statue of St. Helena occupies the place over the altar of a picture by Rubens, now in England ; the floor of this chapel is said to be formed of earth brought by St. Helena from Jeru salem. At the entrance to it is an altar dedicated by a certain Julius Maxi- milianus to St. Helena. Ladies will observe a notice upon a marble slab near it, that their entrance to the chapel is- forbidden, under pain of excommu nication, except on the 20th of March, the anniversary of its dedication. The consecration of the golden rose, which the popes in former times sent an nually to sovereign princes, took place in this basilica. During the first French occupation the library was removed to the Vatican ; it was sub sequently restored, but many of the rarer manuscripts had been stolen or lost. The fragment of the true cross is exhibited on the 4th Sunday in Lent, on Good Friday, and May 3. The sepulchral inscription of Benedict VII., who was buried in this ch., has Sect. I. § 25. SS. DOMENICO E SISTO S. FRANCESCA. 161 been let^nto the wall on the rt. of the entrance. Pope Silvester II. expired as he was celebrating mass in this basilica, and a story of his death, somewhat si milar to those told of our Henry IV. and Robert Guiscard, has been handed down. Silvester, who had acquired magical knowledge from the Mahomedans in Spain, having had a brazen head made which answered questions put to it by him, received on one occasion a reply that he would not die before he had celebrated mass in Jerusalem. SS. Domenico e Sisto, on the Quirinal, at the head of the Via di Magnanapoli, a very handsome ch. attached to a large convent of Domini can nuns, at present a military hos pital. It was erected by the archi tect della Grecca in 1611. The front, built of travertine, is handsome, and approached by a double flight of steps. The interior is highly decorated, although the principal ornaments are in stucco: the frescoes over the nave and the high altar are by Canuti ; the marble group of our Saviour and the Magdalen by Raggi, in the 1st chapel on the rt. ; the Crucifixion in the 3rd chapel on 1. is by Lanfranco. On the anniversary of the marriage of St. Catherine (July 19) her desiccated hand is exhibited for the veneration of the faithful, in her chapel, the 2nd on 1., over the altar of which stands a picture of her marriage, by Allegrani. The painting of the Virgin of the Rosary, in the 1st chapel on 1., is by Bomanelli. The adjoining Dominican convent has been seized upon by the Govern ment, and converted into the Corte dei Conti, General Audit Office, or Court of Accounts. S. Francesca Romana, near to the Basi lica of Constantine, partly built on the site of the Temples of Venus and Rome, by Leo IV. and Nicholas I. in the 9th century, and restored by Paul V. It contains some curious mosaics of the time of Nicholas I. (a.d. 862) on the vault of the apse, representing the Virgin, with SS. John, James, Peter, and Andrew on either side, each in compartments formed by columns in the shape of palm-trees, and twisted. The hand within a wreath over the head of the Virgin, emblematical of the Almighty, as well as the mono gram of Christ, in the centre of the arch, are beautiful as designs. All the mosaics once on the face of the tribune have disappeared. Between the 2 flights of steps leading to the tribune is the confessional tomb of St. Fran cesca, covered with rich marbles and bronzes ; and in the rt.-hand transept a monument to Gregory XL, erected in 1584 by the senate and people, with a bas-relief of the return of the Papal Court to Rome from Avi gnon, in 1377, after an absence of 72 years, from the designs of Pietro Olivicri. Near this monument are 2 stones let into the wall, bearing a double depression, made, it is averred, by St. Peter's kneeling on them when Simon Magus was carried off by the demon. In the l.-hand transept is a handsome marble ciborium, with sculp tures in the style of Mino da Fiesole. There are 2 sepulchral monuments in the 2nd chapel on rt. ; one to Cardinal Vulcani, who died in 1 322 ; the other to Antonio Rido, with his bas-relief on horseback — this Rido, born at Padua, was commander of the Papal forces under Nicholas V., and died in 1475. There formerly existed, in the Sala Capitolare of the adjoining con vent, now tenanted by Olivetan monks, a picture, by Pierino del Vaga, of Paul III. and Card. Pole. It is said to have been lately removed to the apartment ofthe superior. At the festival of S. Francesca Romana, on the 9th March, high mass is celebrated in this ch. in thepresence of thecollege of cardinals. Her body, reduced to a skeleton, is exhibited on this and the preceding day in the crypt. Santa Francesca Romana was a noble lady of the Ponziani family, remarkable for her piety. She founded the order of Oblate nuns, who are all of noble families, principally occupying themselves with education, and of whom the convent of Tor di Specchi, near the Capitol, is the principal house in Rome. Gentile da Fabriano, the celebrated painter of the Umbrian school, was buried in this ch ; the bell-tower is a fine specimen of this class of mediaeval edifices, and is 162 § 25. CHURCHES — IL GESU — S. GIORGIO. Rome. one of the best preserved of the period (13th centy.). S. Francesco a Ripa, at the extre mity of the Trastevere, founded in the 1 3th century, in honour of St. Francis of Assisi, who resided in the convent and hospital adjoining during his visits to Rome. The present ch. and con vent were rebuilt by Cardinal Lazzaro Pallavicini, from the designs of Matteo Rossi. The ch. contains some works of art, among which are the recumbent statue of the blessed Ludovica Alber- toni, by Bernini, in the Paoluzzi chapel, which forms the 1. transept, a very cha racteristic specimen of this master's style. The painting over the altar, of a Holy Family with St. Anne, is by Baciccio. The Pallavicini chapel in the opposite transept contains two se pulchral monuments of the Rospigliosi- Pallavicinis, in the very debased style of the early part of the last century. In the convent the apartment occupied by St. , Francis is shown, and in the garden an orange-tree planted by him. i7(r it contains a very valuable collection of small Greek and Roman antiquities in bronze, ivories, glass, &c, conaisting principally of lamps, vases, and personal ornaments : some antique mosaics. The carvings in ivory, affixed to the shutters of the cabinets, having, for the greater part, been found attached to the Christian sepulchres in the catacombs : they date from the 2nd to the 7th cen- 252 § 26, PALACES — VATICAN — LIBRARY. Rome. tury: amongst them is a remarkable group of a triumphal car drawn by four horses, a close resemblance to that of the large bas-relief of Marcus Aurelius on the stairs of the Palazzo de' Conaervatori, in the Capitol. The collection of modem cameos in pietra- dura by Girometti, purchased by Gre gory XVI., and a very beautiful cup in amber, with reliefs. Two works of Cellini, repreaenting the fable of Perseus, and the wars of the Tro jans, have been placed here. Here alao are the nails, tilea, and other fragments of the framework of Caesar's viEa, found in the lake of Nemi, and long supposed to be the timbers of an ancient ahip ; several vases and articles of domestic economy ; and the hair of a Roman young lady, tastefully tressed up, found with her skeleton in a sarco phagus. The principal manuscript treasures of the library are the following : — The celebrated Codex Vaticanus or Bible of the early part of the 4-th century, in Greek, containing the oldest of the Septuagint versions of the Scripturea, and the firat Greek one of the New Testament. It is aupposed to have been one of the 50 copiea procured at Alexandria by Euaebius, by order of Conatantine, for the churches at Constantinople. Thi3 most important monument of biblical literature, and which had remained so long unedited, had been printed under the superinten dence of the late Cardinal Mai seve ral years since, but scruples had arisen to prevent its publication until lately, when the reigning Pontiff withdrew the interdict of his predecessor.* The Vir gil of the ith or 5th century, with 50 miniatures, including a portrait of Vir gil, well known by the engravings of Santo Bartoli. The Terence of the 9th century, with miniatures. These ver sions of Virgil and Terence belonged to Cardinal Bembo, and passed with his other collections into the ducal * Vetus et Novum Teatamentum, ex antiquis- slmo Codice Vatiennd, ed. Akgkmis Maius, S.K.E.. Card., Rome,] 857, Spithover; and Novum lestamcntum, Roma;, 1859, Spithover. library of Urbino : the Terence was pre sented to his father, Bernardo Bembo, by Porcello Pandonio, the Neapolitan poet. A Terence of the 4th or 5th century, the oldest known. Fragments of a Virgil of the 12th century. The Cicero de Republica, the celebrated pa limpsest discovered by Cardinal Mai under a version of St. Augustin's Com mentary on the Psalms. This is con sidered the oldest Latin MS. extant. The Palimpsest of Livy, lib. 91 , from the library of Christina queen of Swe den. The Plutarch from the same col lection, with notes by Grotiua. The Seneca of the 14th century, with com mentaries by the English Dominican monk Triveth, from the library of the dukes of Urbino. A Pliny, with intereatingfigureaofanimala. TheMeno- logia Grceca, or Greek calendar, of the 10th century, ordered by the emperor Basil : a fine example of Byzantine art, brilliantly illuminated with representa- tions of basiheas, monasteries, and mar tyrdoms of various Baints of the Greek Church. The Somilies of St. Gregory Nazianzenus, of the year 1063, and the Four Gospels of the year 1128, both Byzantine MSS. of great interest ; the latter is from the Urbino library. A Greek version of the Acts of the Apostles, written in gold, presented to Innocent VIII. by Charlotte queen of Cyprus. The large Sebrew Bible, in folio, from the library of the duke of Urbino, for which the Jews of Venice offered its weight in gold. The Com mentaries on the Neiv Testament, with miniatures of the 14th century, by Nic- cold da Bologna. The Breviary of Matthias Corvinus of the year 1492, beautifully written and illuminated by Attavanti. The Parchment Scroll of a Greek MS. of the 7th century, 32 feet long, with miniatures of the history of Joshua. The Officium Mor tis, with beautiful miniatures. The Codex Mexicanus, a calendar of im mense length. The dedication copy of the Assertio Septem Sacramentorum adversus Martinum Lutherum, by Senry VIIL, printed on vellum at London in 1521, with the king's signa- Sect. I. § 26. VATICAN — LIBRARY. 253 ture and the autograph inscription on the last page but one, " Finia. Henry Rex." " Anglorum rex Henricus, Leo Decime, mittit. Hoc opus et fidei teste et amicitie." 2 Letters from Senry VIII. to Anne Boleyn, in French and English. The Dante of the 15th century, with minia- turea by Giulio Clovio. The Dante del Boccaccio, in the very beautiful writing of the author of the Decameron, to which hia signature as Johannes de Certaldo ia affixed, and with notes aaid to be by Petrarch ; the poem is preceded by Boccaccio' s dedicatory epistle to the poet. A volume of Tasso's Autographs, containing a sketch of the firat 3 cantos of the Gerusalemme, written in hia 19th year, and dedicated to the duke of Urbino ; and aeveral of his Fssays and Dialogues. Petrarch's Autographs, in cluding the Rime. The Latin poem of Donizo, in honour of the Countess Matilda, with a full-length portrait of that celebrated personage, and several historical miniatures of great interest ; among which are the repent ance of the emperor Henry IV., his abaolution by Gregory VII., &c. The Lives of Duke Federigo di Montefeltro, by Muzio, and of Francesco Maria I. della Rovere, by Leoni, the latter with 5 fine miniatures by Giulio Clovio. The autograph copy of the Annals of Cardinal Baronius, in 12 volumes. The Treatise of the Fmperor Frederick II. on Sawking, from the Heidelberg library. Several Manuscripts of Luther, and the principal part of the Christian Catechism, translated into German by Melanchthon, 1556. The moat interest ing, to the general visitor, of these MSS. are now exhibited to the public, being placed in 2 handsome inlaid cabinets, in the large hall of the library, which will be opened by the custode ; to examine the others a spe- cial permisaion of the Prefect of the library is neceaaary. We wish we could draw the attention ofthe proper authorities to the manner in which one of the most important collections, and literary depots in the world — the Vatican Library — is shown to visitors : they are hurried through it by a servant, more intent on receiv ing his fee than anything else. The selected collections ofthe most valuable MSS. formerly exhibited to the public are seldom shown except by special permission ; the sight of the Medals and Coins is still more difficult. As to the Library of printed books and the Stanze Borgia, so interesting for their paintings by the great artists of the 16th century, they are closed. The library authorities at the Vatican would do well to imitate the liberality shown and facilities granted in other countries to the foreign visitor, e. g. at the Bri tish Museum, in the Imperial Libraries in Paris and Vienna, and in those of Florence, Venice, Milan, Turin, &c. Manufactory of Mosaics. — Persons who have admired the beautiful mosaics of St. Peter's should visit, before they leave the Vatican, the studio in which they are manufactured. The number of enamels of different tints preserved for the purposes of the works amounts to no less than 10,000. The manu facture is by no means bo mechanical as is generally supposed : great know ledge of art is requisite to do justice to the subjects which are thus invested with durability ; some idea of the dif ficulty of the proceas may be formed from the fact that many of the large picturea have occupied from 12 to 20 years in their execution; that few of the smaller ones occupy less than 5 or 6 ; and that the rough portraits of the popes, now in progresa for the Basilica of St. Paul's, can seldom be completed in less than 12 montha. Visitors are admitted daily, by means of an order, easily procured through their bankers : the entrance to the manufactory is from a corridor at the comer of the Court of S. Damaso, and on the ground floor. Gardens of the Vatican. — Few tra vellers visit these interesting gardens, which deserve to be better known: they are entered from the further end of the long gallery of the Museo Chiara monti. The first portion is that called the Giardino della Pigna, in the quad rangle formed by the Museo Chiara- 254 § 26. PALACES — VATICAN— GARDENS. Rome. monti, the Braccio Nuovo, the Etruacan Museum, and the long gallery of the library : it was begun by Nicholas V., and enlarged by Julius II. from the designs of Bramante, who constructed the 4 facades. In front of the princi pal facade is a large semicircular niche, containing the 2 bronze peacocks and the colossal pigna or pine-cone, 11 feet high, found in the mausoleum of Hadrian, and suppoaed to have stood on the summit of the building. In the centre of the garden is the pedestal of the Column of Antoninus Pius, found on Monte Citorio in 1709, and removed to this spot after the in effectual attempt of Fontana to raise the shaft, which was discovered at the same time. It is 11 ft. high, 12 ft. on each of its sides, and ornamented with high reliefs, representmg the apotheosis of Antoninus and Faustina, funeral games, allegorical figures of Rome, and a genius holding an obelisk. The in scription has been already quoted in the account of the column (p. 56). A flight of steps descends from the quadrangle of the Giardino della Pigna to the terrace of the Navicella, so called from a large fountain with a bronze ship in the centre, from every point of which water is made to flow. The view from this terrace over the northern part of Rome ia very fine. Several very ingenioua devices of waterworks play in this gar den. In one place the visitor is made to stand on a circular space to admire the bronze Pigna, when water spouts from invisible openings in the ground around him. A similar mischievous device awaits him as he unpreparedly passes down the stairs to the terrace of the Navicella. The Gardena of the Vatican, properly speaking, extend beyond the long line of buildings of the library and palace, along the declivity of the hill, occupy ing the space between the wall of Leo IV. and the modern fortified enceinte of Urban VIII. They are very extensive, with casinos, formal flower-gardens, long alleys bordered with box hedges, and even rides where the pope can take horse exercise, which court etiquette would not permit his doing outside his own grounds. No order to visit the gardens is necessary ; a franc to the custode will be the best passport. The Casino del Papa, built by Pius IV. from the designs of Pirro Ligorio, is one of the moat elegant villaa in Rome. It is decorated with paintings by Baroccio, Federigo Zucchero, and Santi di Tito, and has a beautiful foun tain which pours its watera into a basin of pavonazzeto, adorned with antique groups of children riding on a dolphin. Among its antiquities is an interesting series of bas-reliefs in terra-cotta, col lected by d'Agincourt and Canova. In the upper part of the gardens a portion of the mediaeval wall of Leo IV. with two fine round towera is still standing, beyond which Pius IV. and Urban VIII. extended the present bastions. It was from the most western and elevated point of the latter, which enfilade the post- road from Civita Vecchia, that the French army suffered so severe and unexpected a repulse on their firat ap proach to Rome in April 1849. The Pontifical Armoury, behind the Sacristy of St. Peter's, contains numeroua cannon, bombardes, &c. ; the moat remarkable object is the iron armour of the Constable de Bourbon, which he wore, when killed before the Castle of St. Angelo, in 1527 ; a melancholy record of the cruel pillage winch devastated Rome more than all the attacks of the barbarians, neither sparing the monuments of antiquity nor the works of the great masters of the Revival. His sword is preserved in the Kircherian Museum at the Collegio Romano. To visit the Armoury an order from the Pope's Majorduomo is necessary. The Zecca, or Pontifical Mint, is also behind St. Peter's ; open daily, except on Sundays and holy days, from 9 to 3. To see the workshops, an order from the Director will necessary. Here are pre served all the dies of Papal medals struck since 1531, under Pope Martin V., 749 in number. The entire col lection, in bronze, costs 985 frs. Any separate medal can be obtained. Sect. I. § 26. PALACES — CAPITOL. 255 The Capitol. The square of palaces which now covers the summit of the Capitoline Hill under the name of the Piazza del Campidoglio, was erected by Paul III. from the designa of Michel Angelo. The effect aa we approach it from the Piazza di Ara Coeli is imposing,although it may disappoint our preconceived ideas of the magnificence of the Roman Capitol. The easy ascent by stepa a cordoni waa opened in 1536, on the occasion of the entrance of the emperor Charles V. At the foot of the central stairs are 2 Egyptianlions, brought here by Pius IV. from the ch. of S. Stefano in Cacco. At the summit of the steps, on the angles of the balustrades, are 2 colossal statues, in marble, of Castor and Pollux stand ing by the side of their horses : they were found in the Ghetto, in the middle of the 16th century. Near these are the celebrated marble sculp tures called the Trophies of Marius. We have already noticed this misno mer in the description of the ruina (p. 89) near whicli they were disco vered. Their style shows that they are imperial works ; Winckelmann referred them to the time of Domitian, and recent antiquaries have even assigned to them so late a date aa that of Alexander Severua. Next are the sta tues of Conatantine and his son, found in his baths on the Quirinal. At the extremity of the balustrade, on the rt. of the ascent, is the Mil liarium, or milestone, which marked the first mile on the Via Appia : it waa found in 1584 in the Vigna Naro, a short distance beyond the modem Porta di San Sebastiano, and has in scribed on it the namea of Vespasian and Nerva: as a pendant, on the opposite baluatrade, is that which stood at the 7th mile on the same road, and which was brought here from the Giuatiniani palace. In the centre of the piazza ia the bronze equeatrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. In the middle ages it was suppoaed to be a statue of Constantine, a fortunate error for the interests of art, since it was this belief which preserved it from destruction. There is a great uncertainty aa to where it originally stood, some supposing it was in the fore-court in front of the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina in the Forum, others on the brick pedestal at the foot of the arch of Septimius Severus ; it was subsequently placed in front of the Lateran, and waa removed to its present position by Michel Angelo in 1538. It stands on a pedestal of marble formed from a single block of an architrave found in theForum of Trajan. It is one of the very few ancient eques trian statues in bronze which has been preserved entire, and, as a apecimen of ancient art, ia admitted to be the finest in existence. It waa originally gilt, as may be seen from the traces of the gold still visible on the horse's head. The admiration of Michel Angelo for the statue is well known ; it is related that he said to the horse " Cammina," and declared that its action was full of life. So highly is it prized, that even in recent years an officer was regularly appointed to take care of it, under the name of the Cus tode del Cavallo. A bunch of flowers is ' annually presented to the chapter of the Lateran basilica as an acknowledgment that it belongs to them. While the statue stood in front of the Lateran in 1347, it played an important part in the festivities on the elevation of Cola di Rienzo to the rank of tribune. On that occasion wine was made to flow out of one nostril and water out of the other. On the 3 sides of the piazza are the separate buildings designed by Michel Angelo. The central one ia the Pa lace of the Senator; that on the rt. the Palace of the Conservators ; that on the 1. contains the Museum of the Capitol. Palace op the Senator, Founded by Boniface IX. at the end of the 14th century, on the ruins of the Tabularium, as a fortified residence for the Senator. The facade was orna mented by Michel Angelo with Corin- 256 § 26. PALACES — CAPlTOL. Rome, thian pilasters, and made to harmonise with his new palaces. In front it is approached by a double flight of stairs. At the base is a large fountain con structed by Sixtua V., and ornamented with 3 statues : that in the centre, of Minerva, in porphyry, found at Cori, commonly called Rome tri umphant; the marble head and arms are modern : the 2 others are colossal figures of the Nile and the Tiber, found in the Colonna gardens, and referable to the time of the Antoninea. The principal apartment in this palace is the hall, decorated in the worst taste : it contains statues of Paul III., Gregory XIII., and Charles d'Anjou as Senator of Rome in the 13th centy. In the upper rooms are the offices of the Municipality, the local police courts, the apartments of the Academy of the Lincei, and, high above all, the Obser vatory of the Capitol attached to the Chair of Astronomy, at the Univer sity, now filled by Prof. Righetti. From near this we may aacend to the summit of the Tower, remark able for one of the most inatructive views of Rome, described in a pre ceding page (p. 11). The great bell of the Capitol, the celebrated Paiarina, captured from Viterbo in the middle agea, ia suapended in this tower, and is rung only to announce the death of the pope and the opening of the Carnival. In the lower floor, occupying the portico of the Tabula rium, are several fine fragments of ancient Architecture discovered in the subjacent Forum, and lower down still the passages leading to aome interest ing remains of the substructions of the Capitol and of the Tabularium, which well deserve a visit. (See p. 23.) [The museum and gallery of the Capitol belong to the municipal body (the S. P. Q. R.), and are supported from its funds : they are open to the public on Mondays and Thuradays, from 12 until 4 p.m. until May 1, and afterwards during the summer months from 2 to 6 p.m. Admission at other times is easily obtained by a small feo to the custode at the gate.] Palace op the Conservatoes, On the W. side of the square, contain ing the Protomoteca, or collection of busts of illustrious Italians, the Gal lery of Pictures, the Halls of the Conservators, with the Bronze Wolf and the Fasti Consulares. Under the arcade, within the court, on the rt. hand ia a colossal statue of Julius Caesar (2 a) ; on the 1. one of Au gustus (2 b), with the rostrum of a galley on the pedestal, an allusion probably to the battle of Actium. In different parts of the court are several interesting fragmenta : a colossal marble head of Domitian ; the massive marble pedestal on which stood the cinerary urn of Agrippina (3 a), wife of Ger manicus, discovered near the Mauso leum of Augustus, with the very inter esting inscription — OSSA — AGEIPPINiE. M. Ao-EiPPiE F — Divi. Aug. Neptis. Vxoeis. — Geemanici Gzesaeis. — Ma- ieis C Gesaeis Au& — Geemanici Peincipis ; — a cavity cut in it served aa the standard measure for grain — Rubiatella di grano, as it ia styled in Gothic letters — in the middle ages ; the inacription to Agrippina ia of the time of Caligula, when he caused the ashes of his mother to be removed to the imperial mausoleum, from the place where Tiberius had caused them to be buried; — a fragment of a colossal column in red porphyry, found in the basilica of Constantine. The feet 'and hand of 2 colosaal atatuea, in marble, are intereating fragmenta ; they are suppoaed to have belonged to the statue raised on the Capitoline by Lucullus to Apollo, and to a aecond effigy of the aame god, 30 cubits high, fragments of which were found behind the Basilica of Constantine. In the back part of the court are the atatue of Rome Triumphant (4 a), and on its pedestal the keystone of an Arch of Trajan, with a bas-relief of a captured province, probably Dacia ; 2 captive Numidian kings, in grey marble ; the group of the lion attacking a horse, found in the bed of the Almo, remark able for its fine workmanship and for Sect. I. § 26. CAPITOL — PROTOMOTECA. 257 Plan or the Palace op the Consebtatoes — Geound Flooe. c b d G a •n 3 -@ 7 ©¦ Off 9 flij 2 •1 — \ — 7i 7a •v 7e 1 I— e e Piazza del Campidoglio. 1. Entrance from Piazza. 2. Lower Corridor. 3. Great Court, a. Cippus of Agrippina. 4 a. Rome Triumphant. the reatorations by Michel Angelo ; a hand and head of a colossal bronze statue, supposed to be portions of that of Commodus. The Protomoteca (7), a auite of 7 rooms preaented to the Arcadian Academy by Leo XII. They con tain a aeries of busts of illustrious personages, including those which for merly atood in the interior of the Pantheon. Room I. (a) In this room are placed the regulations of Pius VIL, defining the privilege of ad- 5. Stairs leading to Upper Floor. 6 a, b, c, d. Bas-reliefs of M. Aurelius. 7. E-ooms of Protomoteca. mission to this new Temple of Fame. The busts of eminent foreigners pre served here, placed in the Pan theon among the native celebrities, on the ground that they had become entitled by their long residence at Rome to the honour of naturaliaed Italians, are those of Nicholaa Pous sin, Raphael Mengs, Winckelmann, Angelica Kauffmann, d'Agincourt, and Joseph Suvee, director of the French Academy. Room II. (b) containa buata of celebrated musical composers — Saechini, Zingarelli, Corelli, Palestrina, 258 § 26. PALACES — CAPITOL. Rome. Pasiello, and Cimarosa, the latter sculp tured by Canova, at the expense of Car dinal Consalvi. Room III. (c), or the great gallery, has the busts of celebrated artists, orators, litterati, and scientific men — Marchi, Mantegna, Morgagni the anatomiat, Donatello, Giotto, Fra Angelico, Gaudenzio Ferrari, Ma- saccio, Coreggio, Palladio, Perugino, Raphael, Dante, Petrarca, Tasso, Co lumbus, B. Cellini, Titian, Michel Angelo, Aldus Manutius ; and of Vic toria Colonna, presented by her col lateral descendant, the present Princess Torlonia ; Tasso, Palladio, Ariosto, Muratori, Columbus, Dante, Galileo, Petrarca ; a good buat of Canova, by Baruzzi ; and Leo XII. by Fabris. In Room IV. (d) is the fine bust of Pius VII., by Canova, and, round the walls, of the great artista of Italy, from the 13th to the 16th century— L. da Vinci, Bramante, P. Veronese, Brunelleschi, N. da Pisa, Orcagna, L. Ghiberti, San Michele, Fra Bartolommeo, L. Sig- norelli, A. del Sarto, G. Romano, II Moretto da Brescia, Flaminio Vacca, Baroncino, Taddeo Zucchero, Polidoro di Caravaggio, Garofalo, D. Ghirlandajo, Gio. d'Udine, Seb. del Piombo, Fred. Zucchero, M. A. Raimondi, and Mura tori. Room V. (e) Artists of the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries— M. Benefial, An. Caracci, Domenichino, P. da Cortona, Bracci the sculptor, Rapini, Pickler the engraver of gems, R. Stern the architect, Piranesi, &c. Room VI. (f) Men of eminence in every department — Goldoni, Venuti the archaeologiat, Metastasio, Giorgio Triasino, Alfleri, A. Caro (a bust pre sented by the late Ducheas of Devon shire), Beccaria, Verri the author of the Notti Romane, Di Cesaris the poet, Bodoni the celebrated printer, and Tiraboschi. Room VII. (g) Tliia chamber contains a monument to Canova, with hia recumbent statue above, erected by Leo XII., executed by Fabris, and the bust of Duke Emanuel Philibert of Savoy by Cauda. By far the greater number of these busta were executed at the expense of Canova, othera by the families of the peraons represented, and a few by pub- lic-apirited benefactors. Re-entering the square court of the palace at the foot of the staircase, Mi chel Angelo's restoration of the Duilian Column (c), with the fragment of the ancient inscription, will not fail to at tract attention : the fragment of an in scription on the pedestal is relative to the first naval victory over the Cartha ginians, by Caiua Duiliua, A.u.c. 492. On the ataircase are some interesting bas-reliefs : that of Curtius leaping into the gulf is curious, the gulf being here represented aa a marsh : it is of a very rude style of art, and was found near where the event represented is supposed to have occurred, opposite the church of Sta. Maria Liberatrice. The long inscription on the opposite wall in Gothic characters is relative to the gift of the Caroccio, or Chariot, sent to Rome as a trophy by the Emperor Frederick II., by whom it was taken in 1237 from the Milaneae, at the battle of Corte Nuova. The aeries of large baa-reliefs, on the walls of the first and second landing- places, represent events in the life of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, and are not only interesting aa works of fine sculp ture, but as showing several monuments of Rome as they existed during the reign of that sovereign. The four on the first landing-place represent (6a) Marcus Aurelius aaerificing before a Temple of Jupiter ; (6b) his triumphal entry into Rome ; (6c) hia granting peace to the Germans ; and (Gd) the Emperor pre sented with globe of power by an alle gorical figure of Rome : theae four fine reliefs had long been preserved in the church of Santa Martina in the Forum ; the other two, at the head of the atairs, representing an harangue by Marcus Aurelius (3a), and the Apotheosis of Faustina the elder (35), were taken from the arch dedicated to that em peror and to Lucius Verus, which for merly existed in the Corso, near the Palazzo Fiano, and which waa taken down in 1563 by Alexander VII. to widen that great thoroughfare of the modern city. Of the others which Sect. I. § 26. CAPITOL HALL OP CONSERVATORS. 259 were on the same arch, one ia in posaeasion of Duke Torlonia. In the centre of the firat landing-place ia a pedeatal on which stands a good bust of Hadrian, and below a dedicatory inacription to that emperor by the Magistri Vicorum Urbis ofthe 14 Re- giones of Rome, and containing the names ofthe 1st, 10th, 12th, 13th, and 14th, with the names of the respective streets. Sails of the Consenatori, not open to the public, but access is at all times easily obtained by a small fee to the custode. 1st Room (7a), painted in fresco by Cav. d' Arpino, with subjects taken from the history of the Roman kings : the finding of Romulua and Remus, the foundation of Rome, the rape of the Sabines, Numa Pompilius sacrificing with the vestals, battle between Tullus Hostilius and the army of Veii, battle of the Horatii and Curiatii, &c. The other objects of interest are the marble statues of Leo X. (a very poor produc tion by G. del Duca), of Urban VIII. by Bernini, and of Innocent X., in bronze, by Algardi ; medalliona of Christina of Sweden, and of Maria Casimira queen of Poland; and a re presentation of a sturgeon of the size beyond which all caught in the Tiber Plan op the Palace op the Conseevatoks— Uppee Floor. 7> 2. Stairs. 3. Upper Corridor. 4, 5. Rooms leading to Picture Gallery. 6. Landing-place, with Bas-reliefs of M. Au relius, a, b, c, d., and dedicatory1 pedestal, d. to and hust of Hadrian. 1. Halls of the Conservators. 1 a. Great Salone. lb. Hall ofthe Capitani. 7 c. Hall of the Wolf. 7 d. Hall of the Fasti Consulares. 7 e. Hall of Audience. If. Hall of the Throne. 7 h. Chapel. 7 i. Hall of Etruscan Pottery, Bronzes, &c. 8. Passage to Picture Gallery. 9. Passage leadiDg to Monte Caprino. 260 § 26. PALACES — CAPITOL. Rome. belong to the Senatus Populusque Ro- manus. 2nd Room, Sala dei Capitani (7b), painted by Laureti, with subjects from the history of republican Rome : Mu- tiua Scsevola burning his rt. hand be fore Porsenna, Brutus condemning his two sons to death, Horatiua Coclea on the Sublician bridge, the battle of Lake Regillus. The statues in this room are of celebrated Roman generals in modern times : Mare Antonio Colonna, the conqueror of the Turks at Lepanto ; Tommaso Rospigliosi; Francesco Aldo brandini ; Alessandro Farnese, duke of Parma, distinguished as a commander in Flanders ; and Carlo Barberini, brother of Urban VIII. 3rd Room (7c), painted in fresco by Laureti, wrongly attributed to Dani ele da Volterra, with subjects taken from the wars with the Cimbri. This hall contains the celebrated Bronze Wolf of the Capitol, one of the most interest ing relics of the early arts and history of Italy. *' And thou, the thunder-stricken nurse of Rome ! She-wolf! whose brazen-imaged dugs impart The milk of conquest yet within the dome Where, as a monument of antique art, Thou standest : — Mother of the mighty heart, Which the great founder suck'd from thy wild teat, Scorch'd by the Roman Jove's ethereal dart, And thy limbs black with lightning — dost thou yet Guard thine immortal cubs, nor thy fond charge forget?" — C'hilde Harold. It would be easy to fill a volume with a recital of the controversies to which this specimen of ancient art has given rise. Some authorities identify it with the wolf mentioned by Diony- siua and Livy, others regard it aa that alluded to by Cicero, while Winckel mann and later antiquaries confound the two, and describe the wolf men tioned by the historian aa the same which waa struck with lightning in the time of the great orator. The wolf mentioned on the authority of a more remote writer, Fabius Pictor, by Diony sius, was an ancient work of bronze, standing when he saw it. The wolf mentioned by Cicero, both in the Cati line orations and in hia poem on the Consulate, as a smaU gilt figure of Romulus sucking the teat of a wolf which was struck with lightning, and which his hearers remembered to have seen in the Capitol : — " Tactus est ille etiam qui banc urbem condidit Romulus, quern inauratum in Capitolio parvum atque lactentem, uberibus lu- pinis inhiantem fuisse meministis." — Catilin., iii. 8. It is generally admitted that the wolf of Cicero is not the one mentioned by Dionysius; while the gliding, still traceable on that before us, and the fracture in the hind leg, which to credulous eyes appear to have been caused by lightning, have in duced some writers to regard it as the one alluded to by Cicero in the passage above quoted. There is little doubt of - its high antiquity : the workmanship is manifestly of an early period, at least the workmanship of the wolf; for the twins are modern. The great diffi culty which has arisen in the solution of the question is the discrepancy in the statements of the antiquaries respecting the precise sppt on which it was dis covered. It would lead us beyond our limits to follow the authoritiea on this subject ; but the reader will find the whole question ably examined in Sir John Hobhouse's note to the pas sage of Childe Harold quoted above. In regard to the main fact, "it is," he says, " a mere conjecture where the image was actually dug up ; and perhaps, on the whole, the marks of the gilding and of the lightning are a better argument in favour of its being the Ciceronian wolf than any that can be adduced for the contrary opinion. At any rate it is reasonably selected in the text of the poem as one ofthe most in teresting relica of the ancient city, and is certainly the figure, if not the very animal, to which Virgil alludes in his beautiful verses : — ¦ " ' Geminos huic uhera circum Ludere pendentes pueros, et lambere matrem lmpavidos : illam tereti cervice reflexam Mulcere alternos, et corpora fingere lingua.' " JEneid, viii. 630. Sect. I. § 26. CAPITOL — HALL OP CONSERVATORS, 261 Among otl»r objects in this chamber the following are worthy of notice: — The bronze statue of the youth extract ing a thorn from his foot, called the Shep herd Martius ; a bronze bust of Junius Brutus, with the eyes in enamel ; a bust of Michel Angelo, said to have been executed by himself; a small marble Diana Triformis ; a bas-relief of a sarcophagus, representing the gate of Hades with 2 genii on each side, not older probably than the 4th century ; and an interesting bas-rehef, represent ing a splendid edifice called the Temple of Solomon, with a team of oxen or buffaloes drawing a vehicle laden with architectural decorationa. The picture of S. Francesca Romana on the wall is a good work by Romanelli ; that of the Dead Christ opposite ia by Cosimo Piazza. ith Room (7d), containing the cele brated Fast i Consulares, found near the three columns in the Roman Forum, supposed to belong to the Temple of Mi nerva Chalcidica. Theaeinscriptiona con tain a list of all the consuls and public officers to the time of Augustus : they are much mutilated, and broken into numeroua fragmenta ; but they are atill legible, and have been illustrated with great learning by the late Cav. Bor- ghesi : they give the names of the consuls from A.u.c. 272 to the reign of Augustus. The records preserved by these inscriptions, however, had not been uniformly kept ; after a.u.c. 600 (b.c. 143) they become imperfect, Beveral magistrates after that time are alto gether omitted, only one of the 10 tribunes being mentioned. Theae in- tereating recorda, attributed by some to Verrius Flaccna, were discovered in the reign of Paul IIL, when they were arranged by Bottari, Michel Angelo having deaigned the architec tural decorations by which they are surrounded: some portions more re cently found were added by Fea in 1820. The bust of Gabriele Faemos here is one of the few executed by Michel Angelo. There ia a fine column of Egyptian breccia supporting a buat of Hadrian in the centre of this room. It is remarkable mineralogically from the great number of rolled fragments of red granite which it contains. 5th Room (7e) (Hall of Audience), containing a bust in rosso antico, called on no authority Appius Clau dius, a bust of Tiberius, 2 bronze dueks found among the ruins in the gardens of Sallust, a small head of Isis in bronze, a head of Medusa by Bernini, and a Holy Family, after Raphael, attributed to Giulio Romano. There are other ancient buata in this room, called Alcibiadea, Socrates, Diogenes, and Sappho. 6th, the Throne Room (7f), is orna mented with a frieze in fresco by Daniele da Volterra, representing events in the life of Alexander the Great, in 8 compartments. The walls are hung with faded tapeatry, made in the hoapital of San Michele from the deaigna of Rubena and Pouasin. The busts in the corners of this room have had the names of Ariadne, Poppa;a, 7th Room (7g), painted in fresco with aubjects taken from the hiatory of the Punic war3, by Daniele da Volterra. 8th Room (7h), a chapel containing on the 1. wall a fresco, Madonna and Child throned, with adoring angels on either side, attributed by some to Pinturicchio — more probably by I'In- gegno : the 4 Evangeliats, by M. A. Caravaggio; the Almighty, on the roof, by the School of the Caracci; Sta. Cecilia, S. Alexis, S. EuBtachius, and B. Luigia Albertoni, by Romanelli. The altar-picture, the Madonna and Child with St. Peter and St. Paul, is by Avanzino Nucci. 7i. Room of early Italian pottery, chiefly ofthe ante-Roman period, from Cervetri, Tarquinii, Veii, &e., bronzes, ivories, &c, formed by Sig. Agoste Cas tellani, the celebrated jeweller, and most liberally bestowed by him on the Muni- 262 § 26. PALACES— CAPITOL PICTURES. Rome. cipal Museum of his native city in 1867. On the walls of the two rooms (4 and 5) leading to the Picture Gallery are placed the modern Fasti Consulages Capitolini, a series of inscriptions of the names of the Roman Conserva tors, from the year 1540 to the present time. Around one of these rooms stand 4 standard measures of wine and oil of the 14th eenty. Galleey op Pictures. Although, aa regards actual numbers, much more extensive than the Pina cotheca of the Vatican (there are about 230 picturea in all), the Capitoline gallery is greatly inferior as regards the value of its contenta. It has few works, indeed, of first-rate merit, the greater number being of a second and third class. It waa founded by Bene dict XIV. in the last century, and is open on the same days, and under the same regulations as to copying, &c., as the Muaeum. An abridged printed catalogue ia sold by the Custode. First Room. — 2, Guido, The Holy Spirit rising to Paradise. 6, F. Ro manelli, Santa Cecilia. 7, Pietro da Cortona, The Triumph of Bacchus. 9, Albani, A Magdalene. 10, L. Gior dano, Worahipping the Golden Calf. 13, Guercino, St. John the Baptist. 14, N. Poussin, The Triumph of Flora, a repetition of the same subject in the Louvre. 16, Guido, The Magdalene. 18, D. da Volterra, St. John the Bap tist. 20, Domenichino, The Cumeean Sibyl, an inferior repetition of the same subject in the Borghese gallery. 21, F. Romanelli, David with the head of Goliah. 23, Mazzolino da Ferrara, The Marriage of the Madonna. 25, Ag. Caracci, Sketch of his large picture of the Communion of St. Jerome in the Gallery at Bologna. 26, Tintoretto, The Magdalene, bearing the painter's signa ture. 27, Fra Bartolommeo, The Pre sentation in the Temple. 28, An. Ca racci, A copy of Oorreggio's picture of St. Catherine in the Gallery at Naples. 30, Albani, A Holy Family. 31, Maria Sublegras, A copy in miniature of the Magdalene before Christ, painted by her husband. 32, 33, An. Caracci, Two Madonnas. 34, Guercino, The Sibilla Peesica. 36, F. Mola, Hagar and Ishmael. 29, Dosso Dossi, Christ dis puting with the Doctors. 40, Pietro da Cortona, Portrait of Urban VIII. 41, Poussin, Orpheus. 42, Palma Vec- chio, The good Samaritan. 44, Gau- denzio Ferrari (?), Madonna and Child. 46, Giacomo Bassano, The Adoration ofthe Magi. 47, Pietro da Cortona, The Rape of the Sabines. 48, Lud. Caracci, St. Francis. 49, Domenichino, S. Sebaatian. 52, Sandro Botticelli, A Virgin, with SS. Martin and Nicholas. 55, Ag. Caracci, A Holy Family. 54, 56, Garofalo, Sta. Catherine and a Holy Family. 58, Pietro da Cortona, Iphi- genia. 61, Guido, His own Portrait. 61, Lud. Caracci, The Baptism of Our Saviour. 62, Scarsellino, The Adora tion of the Magi. 65, 67, Garofalo, A Madonna in Glory, and Sta. Lucia. 69, 74, Giorgione, Portraits. 76, Pol. di Caravaggio, Meleager, in chiaro scuro. 78, Francia, Madonna and Saints, extremely doubtful as to the master ; painted, according to the in scription, in 1513, for Alberico Mala- testa. 79, 87, Gio. Bellini, S. Sebastian, and the portrait of a Bishop. 80, Ve lasquez, His own portrait. 89, Romulus and Remus. 91, Guido, A Sketch of the Holy Spirit ascending to Paradise. Second Room. — 94, G. Bassano, The Forge of Vulcan. 97 and 99, Guido, Cleopatra, and Lucretia. 198, Man- tegna, A Holy Family. 101, Fil. Lippi, Christ disputing with the Doctors. 103, Domenichino, Sta. Barbara. 104, Maz zolino da Ferrara, The Infant Saviour 100, 106, Vandyke, Portraits of persons unknown. 108, Tintoretto, The Bap tism of Our Saviour. 109, Guercino, St. John the Baptist. 114, Tintoretto, The Flagellation. 117, Guercino, Au gustus and Cleopatra. 115, 118, Bas sano, Christ driving the Dealers from the Temple, and our Saviour crowned Sect. I. § 26. MUSEUM OP THE CAPITOL. 203 by God tho Father. 119, 122, 125, Lud. Caracci, St. Sebastian, a Holy Family, and St. Francis. 124, Titian, The Baptism of Christ, with thepainter' a portrait in profile. 126, Guercino, St. Matthew. 127, Perugino, A Madonna and Child. 128, M. Caravaggio, A for tune-teller. 131, Guido, Christ and St. John. 132, 136, Gio. Bellini, Portraits, the first supposed to be his own. 133 and 135, An. Caracci, Madonnas with St. Francis ; 134, Portrait of Michel Angelo, formerly attributed to himself. 137, Domenichino, Hercules, with a Landscape. 139, Gio. Bellini, St. Ber nard. 142, Albani, The Nativity ofthe Virgin. 143, Gueecino, Santa Petro- nilla, considered as one of the finest productions of the master, and certainly the chef-d'oeuvre of the Gallery of the Capitol. The lower part of this large composition represents the grave of the martyr, where her body is shown to Flaccus, a Roman Senator, to whom she had been betrothed : in the upper part the Saint is ascending to heaven. Thia picture formerly stood in St. Peter's, where it has been replaced by a copy in mosaic, perhaps one ofthe moat aucceas- ful facaimilea in that branch of copying. 147, Andrea Sacchi, A Holy Family. 148, 149, P. Veronese, Peace and Hope. 154, Id., The Magdalene. 123, Gau- denzio Ferrcvri, The Woman taken in Adultery. 150, Giulio Romano, The Fornarina. 151, Searsellino, The Flight into Egypt. 153, Cav. Arpino, Diana. 157, Giulio Romano', Judith. 159, 162, Teodone, Two peasants. 161, 164, 166, Garofalo, The Annunciation, and the Madonna and Child in Glory. 163, Gaudenzio Ferrari, Chriat in the cradle. 169, Carlo Cignani, A Madonna and Child. 170, Claude, A doubtful land scape. 175, 177, 178, Guido, Small pictures attributed to. 176, Tintoretto, The Crowning with Thorna. 180, Ti- tian(?), The Woman taken in Adul tery. 188, Guido, Europa. 189, Sear sellino, The Converaion of St. Paul. 190, Pietro da Cortona, The Defeat of Dariua at Arbela. 193, Lud. Caracci, Santa Cecilia. 193, P. Veronese, The Ascension. 196, Cola d' Amatrice (a rare master at Rome), The Assump tion, and the Death of the Virgin. 200 and 204, Garofalo, A Madonna with certain Doctors of the Church, and the Adoration of the Magi. 203, 206, Polemburg, Landscapes. 208 to 217, G. Vanvitelli, Views of the Ponte Sisto, of Monte Cavallo, of the Ponte Rotto, ofthe Castel Sant' Angelo, and other monuments at Rome. 218, F. Mola, David and Nathan. 222, Bassano, Christ in the house of Simon the Pharisee. 223 and 224, P. Ve ronese, SS. Mary and Anna with Angels. The Rape of Europa, a repetition of the picture in the Ducal Palace at Venice. 228, Luca Cambiasi, A Virgin and Child. The pictures formerly hi the Secret Cabinet at the Capitol have been trans ferred to the gallery of the Academy of St. Luke's ; and will be found noticed at p. 313. Museum op the Capitol. The building on the E. side of the piazza, opposite to the palace of the Conservators, contains the Museo Capi- tolino, or Gallery of Scnlpture. It was begun by Clement XII., and aug mented by Benedict XIV., Clement XIII., Pius VI., Pius VIL, and Leo XII. It ia a most intereating col lection, although much less extensive than that of the Vatican. The old cata logue, no longer sold, is very imperfect : a new one is in preparation. At the bottom of the Court (6) is the colossal recumbent statue of the^Ocean, known by the popular name of Marforio, de rived from its having stood in the Fo, rum of Mars (Martis Forum) near the Capitol, and celebrated as having had pasted on it the replies to the satirical witticiama of Pasquin. The 2 sarco phagi on either aide (a, b) in marble- with Chriatian emblems, one belong ing to a certain Licentius, who died A.i). 406, during the Conaulate of Arcadius and Aniciua Probus, and the other, of nearly the same period, be- 264 § 26. MUSEUM OP THE CAPITOL. Rome, Museum op the Capitol — Geound Floor. lJm*^tv del CamhiUogltQ . 1. Portico, on Piazza. 2. Entrance from ditt& 3. Lower Corridor. 4. Hall of the Bronzes. longing to the public orator (Rhator Urbis), Flavius Magnus, were disco vered under the basilica of S. Lo renzo fuori le Mura. Built into the side wall are consular fasces in relief. In the Lower Corridor (3) on each side of the entrance are the following ob jects : — 1. Endymion and his dog. 3. Colossal statue of Minerva. 4. Frag ment of a statue of Hercules with the Hydra. 5. Apollo. 6. A Sarcophagus, with Bacchanalian reliefs. 9. A bas- relief of a Roman province. 10. Co lossal head of Cybele, found at Had rian's villa. 21. Colossal statue of Diana. '23. Polyphemus. 24. Mer cury. 26. Hadrian in sacrificial cos tume, found near S. Stefano Rotondo. 29. Colossal statue of a warrior, called Pyrrhus or Mars, found on the Aven tine; the armour elaborately sculp tured. 30. Hercules alaying the Hydra. Near this is a portion of a eoloasal statue in red porphyry. There are several fragments ofthe bases and capi tals of the columns from the Temple of Concord in this vestibule, which will interest the architect, from the elabo rate manner in which they are exe cuted ; and the pedestals supporting Nos. 15 and 16 found near the Pyramid 4'. 4" Marbles, chiefly inscriptions. 5. Halls ofthe Urns. 6. Hemicycle and Statue of Marforio. of Caius Caestius (see p. 71), with in- scriptiona relative to its erection, with the names of his heirs, M. Valerius, Meaaalla Corvinus, P. Rutilius Lupus, Junius Silanus, L. Pontius Mela, D. Marius Niger, and M. Agrippa, names well known in history. At the extremity of the corridor, on the 1., is the Sail of the Bronzes (4) . — Here are preserved most of the bronzes belong ing to the Capitoline collection. In the centre is the bronze horse disco vered in the Trastevere in 1849, with fragments of a bull from the same lo cality ; the foot of a male statue with an elaborately ornamented sandal ; an other foot (66) of a colossal statue found on a pedestal before the pyramid of Caius Caestius, and supposed to have belonged to a statue of that personage; the statue of a boy (I), called one of the young Camilli, or youthful priests, in stituted by Romulua ; a bronze vase (2) found in the sea at Porto d'Anzio — the Greek inscription on the rim states that it waa presented by Mitbridatea King of Pontua to a Gymnasium of the Eupa- torists. Of the two large globes, one stood formerly upon the Mllharum be fore the Capitol, and is said to have Sect. I. § 26. MUSEUM OF THE CAPITOL. 265 been that bfld by the colossal statue of Trajan on the summit of his column (p. 57), and, by a singular error, to have contained the ashes of that em peror ; the origin of the second globe is unknown. A small group of the Diana Triformis (3) . On the wall ia a tablet having engraved on it an inacrip- tion in honour of Septimius Severus , and his sons, with portraits of the em peror and Caracalla ; the name of Geta has been effaced on it, aa we have seen on their arches. Beyond this, 2 rooms, 4' 4", in which are arranged several inscriptions forming the Sarti and Melchiorri collection, and others found in the excavations at the New Cemetery near San Lorenzo fuori le Mura. In the centre standa a statue of the Diana MultimammaBa (47), the head and hands in bronze. Sails ofthe Urns (5, 5', 5"). — At the opposite extremity of the ground floor corridor are 3 rooma, containing a seriea of Imperial and Consular inscriptions, arranged on the walls, down to the reign of Theodosius, and some interest ing specimena of ancient aculpture. In the first room (5), a square altar of Greek marble (c), found at Albano, with bas-reliefs of the Labours of Hercules, in the best Greek style, is particularly worthy of notice; upon it ia a good bust of Hadrian. In the 2nd room (51), called the Sail of the Sarcophagus, is a sarcophagus (d) discovered some years since near the second mile on the Via Appia ; the bas-reliefs in front represent a combat between the Gaula and Ro mans, in which the former are repre sented with cords round their necks, as on the statue of the Dying Gladiator. The Gaulish chief in the foreground in the act of killing himaelf is aup- poaed to be Ancorestus, defeated in a.u.c. 417 by the Consul Atilius Regu- lus. In this same room is a sepul chral cippua (No. 13) of T. Statiliua Aper, measurer of the public build ings, with reliefs in which the com passes, the plummet, a measure of length, and various instrumenta of his [.Rome.] ' profession, are introduced. The latter shows that the ancient Roman foot, divided into 16 parts, was not quite 12 English inchea (11-59) in length. A Milliarium, marked VII., of the reign of Maxentius. The walls of this room are covered with a aeries of inscriptions, extending from the time of Nero to Honorius and Valentinian. In the 3rd room (5") the most remarkable ob ject ia the fine sarcophagus (7) (e), cele brated for ita bas-reliefa represent ing the history of Achillea ; the sub ject in front is the diapute between Achillea andAgamemnon about Briaeia, the opening scene of the Iliad ; on the rt. aits Agamemnon on hia throne, and on the 1. an aged peraonage, Neator or Chalcas, whilst in the foreground is a group of Achillea drawing his sword to avenge the wrong inflicted on him, whilst Briseia and Minerva persuade him to resheath it ; the other figures are of Ulyaaes and Diomed. On one of the end aides is Achilles with the daughters of Lycomedes, and his departure from Scyros ; and on the other the Greek chieftains atTroy begging him to avenge the death of Patroclus. At the back but more roughly executed, is Priam interceding for the body of Hector. This interesting urn was found in the tumulua called the Monte del Grano, 3 m. from the modern Porta Mag giore, on the road to Frascati. The Portland Vase, now in the British Muaeum, was found inside of it, and contained the aahes of the persons to whom the tomb was erected. The 2 figures on the lid of the sarco phagus have been called Alexander Severua and Mammsea hia mother, but without any kind of authority. A sitting statue of Pluto with Cer berus, found in the Baths of Titus. Several early Christian inscriptions from near the ch. of Santa Costanza are let into the walls of this room. A good Roman mosaic of a Hon sur rounded by Cupids, with a male figure standing by and apmning, allegorical probably to the story of Hercules con quered by Love. The circular baa-re- fief, called the Shield of Achilles, from N 266 § 26. MUSEUM OF THE CAPITOL. Rome. representing events in the life of that hero, formed a part of one of the Am- bones in the eh. of the Ara Coeli, which explains why there is a mediaeval mo saic in the centre. Staircase (7). — On the walls of the staircase leading to the upper halls of the Museum are the fragments of the celebrated Pianta Capitolina, the ground-plan of ancient Rome en graved on marble, found beneath the ch. of SS. Cosma and Damiano, on the aite of the Temple of Romulus and Remus (see p. 45), in the Roman Forum : its date cannot be earlier than the time of Septimius Severus or Cara calla, aa aeveral of the edificea erected by the3e emperors are marked upon it. These fragments, in 26 compartments, are of great value to the Roman topo grapher, and have more than once enabled him to throw light on disputed questions connected with the position of several monuments. One of the moat perfect fragmenta contains a large por tion of the ground-plan of the Theatre of Pompey ; another of the Portico of Octavia, with the Templea of Jupiter and Juno within that enclosure ; a third of the Basilica Ulpia ; and a fourth of the Theatre of Marcellus, with the names annexed. A further portion has been discovered in 1867 behind the ch. of SS. Cosma and Damiano near the site of the Portico of Livia. The Gallery (8).— At the top of the staircase are 2 finely -preserved busts (1 and 3) of Marcus Aurelius and Septimius Severus. The walls of the gallery are covered with the inscriptions found in the Columbaria on the Appian Way ; many of which are very curious as conveying the names of persons at tached to the imperial household of the Augustan age, and eapecially the desig- nation of their occupationa, &c. Among the buata and statues are the following : — 2. Bust of Faustina, wife of Anto ninus Pius. 5. Silenus. 10. A curious sepulchral relief : the deceased ap pears to be in the act of making his will. 12. Satyr playing on a flute. Museum op the Capitol — Upper Flooe. r"n 7. Stairs, Pianta Capitolina. 8. Upper Corridor. 9. Hall of Dying Gladiator. 10. Hall of the Faun. 11. Saloon. 12. Hall of Illustrious Men. 13. Hall ofthe Emperors. 14. Reserved Cabinet. 15. Hall of the Doves. Sect. I. § 26. MUSEUM OF THE CAPITOL. 267 13. An antique repetition of the Cupid of Praxiteles, of which we have already noticed othera in the Museum of the Vatican. 16. Statue of TrajanUB De- ciua. 17. Cecrops. 19. Agrippina and Nero. 20. An old Bacchante. 21. Mar cus Aurelius. 23. A laughing Bac chus. 27. Paris. 28. Sarcophagus, with bas-rehefs of the Rape of Proser pine. 29. An octagonal cinerary urn, with 7 finely-sculptured Cupids, in re lief. 33. A Satyr playing on the flute. 36. A Discobolus, badly restored, as a wounded warrior. 37. A wine-vase, with satyrs and bacchantes in low re lief. 38. Colossal bust of Juno, grand, beautiful, and finely preserved. 40. A statue like one in the group of the child ren of Niobe. 42. The Della Valle bust of Jupiter, so called from the family to whom it belonged. 44. Diana Luci- fera. 48. Sarcophagus, with bas-reliefs of the birth and education of Bacchus. 53. Psyche with the wings of a butterfly. 54. Bust of Antinoua. 55. Venus. 56. A sitting female ; the drapery, though coarsely executed, has eonaiderable grandeur of style. 57. Hermes of Jupiter Ammon. 59. Cerea. 62. Buat of Tiberius. 63. Bacchus, with a pan ther. 64. Good statue of Jupiter, with the eagle. On the altar underneath is a bas-relief of the history of the vestal Quinctia. 65. Jupiter Serapis. 67. Bust of Hadrian, the mask in alabaster. 70. Bust of Commodus, young. 71. Mi nerva, found at VeUetri. 73. Silenus. 74. Domitius iEnobarbua, father of Nero. 75. Caracalla. 76. The fine marble vase which formerly gave the name of "Hall of the Vase" to the next room, in which it stood. It was found near the tomb of Caecilia Metella. It standa on a circular altar, with bas- reliefa of 12 divinities, found at Net- tuno, considered by some as a speci men of Etruacan art, and by others aa an example of the early Greek style. The divinities are arranged in the fol lowing order: — 1. Jupiter; 2. Juno; 3. Minerva ; 4. Hercules ; 5. Apollo ; 6. Diana ; 7. Mars ; 8. Venus ; 9. Vesta; 10. Mercury; 11. Neptune; 12. Vulcan. Sail of the Dying Gladiator (9) . — Nearly all the sculptures in thiB hall are of the highest order as works of art, the greater part of which, having been carried to Paris in 1796, were brought back here in 1816. The first is the celebrated figure from which it derives its name : — 1. The Dyin& Gladiatoe (a). There is little doubt that this wonderful figure is a Gaul, probably a Gaulish herald, and it is generally supposed by the most emi nent modern aculptors that it formed one of a aeries of figures illustrat ing the incuraion of the Gaula into Greece. The cord round the neck is seen as one of the distinctive characters of the Gaula in the bas-rehef on the sarcophagus found on the Via Appia, and noticed at p. 265, and the horn has been considered conclusive as to the office of the herald. Montfaucon and Maffei supposed it to be the statue by Cresilas, the contemporary of Phi dias, which Pliny describes as " a wounded man dying, who perfectly ex pressed how much life was remain ing in him." (N. H., xxiv. 8, § 74). But that masterpiece was of bronze, and, if the present statue be conaidered to agree with Pliny'a description, it can only be regarded as a copy. The rt. arm and the toes of both feet have been admirably reatored. "I see before me the gladiator lie : He leans upon his hand — his manly brow Consents to death, but conquers agony, And his droop'd head sinks gradually low — ' And through his side the last drops, ebbing slow From the red gash, fall heavy, one by one, Like the first of a thunder-shower ; and now The arena swims around him — he is gone, Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hail'd the wretch who won. He heard it, but he heeded not— his eyes Were with his heart, and that was far awayj He reck'd not of the life he lost nor prize, But where his rude hut by the Danube lay, There were his young barbarians all at play, There was their Dacian mother — he, their sire, Butcher'd to make a Roman holiday. All this rush'd with his blood— shall he ex pire, And unavenged? Arise, ye Goths, and glut your ire ! " CMlde Harold. H2 268 § 26. MUSEUM OP THE CAPITOL. Rom One of the most accurate critics, John Bell, describes the anatomy of the Dying Gladiator as perfect in every respect. "It is," he saya, "a most tragical and touching representation, and no one can meditate upon it with out the most melancholy feelings. Of all proofs this ia the surest of the effect produced by art. Although not colossal, the proportions are beyond life, perhaps 7 feet ; and yet from its symmetry it does not appear larger than life. The forms are full, round, and manly ; the visage mom-nful; the lip yielding to the effect of pain ; the eye deepened by despair ; the skin of the forehead a little wrinkled ; the hair clotted in thick sharp-pomted locks, as if from the sweat of fight and exhausted strength; the body large ; the shoulders square ; the balance well preserved by the hand on which he rests ; the limbs finely rounded; the joints alone are slender and fine. No affectation of anatomy here ; not a muscle to be distinguished, yet the general forms perfect as if they were expressed. The only anatomical feature discernible is that of full and turgid veins, yet not ostentatiously ob truded, but seen slightly along the front ofthe arms and ankles, giving, like the clotted hair, proof of violent exertion. The singular art of the sculptor ia par ticularly to.be discerned in the extended leg : by a less skilful hand the posture might have appeared constrained ; but here, true to nature, the limbs are seen gently yielding, bending from languor, the knee sinking from weakness, and the thigh and ankle-joint pushed out to Bupport it. The forms of the Dying Gladiator are not ideal or exquisite, like the Apollo; it ia all nature, all feeling." It was found among the ruins in the gardens of Sallust, and waa for some time in the gallery at the Villa Ludovisi; it was purchaaed by Clement XII. 2. Apollo with a lyre, or the Lyeian Apollo, found at the Sol- fatara, on the road to Tivoli. 3. A Roman Matron, aa Priestess, with a consecrated vessel in her hand. 4. Bust of Bacchus. 5. The Amazon, one of the grandeat figures of its clasa— much finer than the repetition in the Vatican. 6. Bust of Alexander the Great. 7. Colossal statue of Juno or Ceres, known as the Juno of the Capitol. 9. Bust of Junius Brutus. 10. Isis, called also Electra or Pandora. 11. Flora, finely draped, found in Hadrian's villa. 13. The Antinous of the Capitol, found also in Hadrian's villa. This exquisite sta tue has commanded the admiration of all critics by its exceeding beauty. "In the Antinous," says John Bell, "the anatomist would look in vain to detect even the slightest mistake or miscon- ception ; yet such is the simplicity of the whole composition, so fine and un dulating the forms, that a trifling error would appear as a gross fault. Every part is equally perfect : the bend of the head and declining of the neck most graceful ; the shoulders manly and large without clmnBinesa ; the belly long and flat, yet not diafigured by leanneaa ; the awell of the broad chest under the arm admirable; the limba finely tapered; the ease and play of the disengaged leg wonderful, having a aerpentine curve arising from an accurate obaervance of the gentle bending of the knee, the half turning of the ankle, and the elaatic yielding natural to the relaxed state in that position from the many joints of those parte." The statue contains on the rt. leg a red stain ; and a smaller one on the breast, produced by iron. 15. A repetition of the Faun op Praxi teles. We have already noticed others in the Vatican ; this is the most beau tiful of all ; the arms and feet are re stored ; it was found in the Villa d' Este at Tivoli. 16. A colossal statue of Atinia Faustina, wife of Antoninus Pius, with the attributes of Concordia, discovered in excavating the central Rly. Stat, on the Viminal. It stands upon an altar dedicated to Hercules. 17. A good statue of Zeno, found at Civita Lavinia, in the ruins of a villa of Antoninus Pius. A large column of the finest variety of white Oriental ala baster: it waa found at the Marmo rata, or quay, on the Tiber, at the foot of the Aventine, where the marbles were landed. Sect. I. § 26. MUSEUM OP THE CAPITOL. 269 Sail of the Faun (10) .—On the wall is the celebrated Table of Bronze, in scribed with part of the Lex Regia, or the Decree of the Senate conferring the imperial power on Veapaaian. On this table Cola di Rienzo expounded to hia followers the power and rights of the Roman people. It was found near the Lateran. The reliefs on the walls occur in the following order : — Four cars drawn by ele phants, leopards, deer, and sheep, led by Cupids, with the attributea of Apollo, Bacchus, and Mercury. Front of a Christian sarcophagua, representing Cu pids employed in the operationa of the vintage. 1. The celebrated Faun (c) in rosao antico, found in Hadrian's villa, valuable not only for the rare material but for its fine sculpture: it stands on an altar dedicated to Serapis. 3. Colossal head of Hercules, on an altar dedicated to Neptune. 6. A fine colossal head of Bacchus, also on a rostral altar. 7. This altar, dedicated to Neptune, and the 2 preceding to Tranquilitaa and the Winds, were found in clearing the harbour of Porto d'Anzio, and are supposed to have been votive offerings from sailors. 13. Sar cophagus, with bas-reliefa representing the story of Diana and Endymion. 15. The boy with a comic mask, full of nature, and very fine aa a work of art. 20. Ibis, restored with a head of Juno. 21. A repetition of the boy and goose in the gallery of the Vatican, but in ferior in execution ; the altar beneath it is dedicated to the Sun. 26. Sar cophagus (b), with baB-reliefs of the battle of Theseus and the Amazons, among which is a group of extraor dinary beauty, representing a soldier dragging an Amazon from her horse, while another seizes his hand and inter- eedes for her companion. It is men tioned by Flaxman in his lecturea as one of the finest specimens of ancient reliefs ; on the lid is another fine group of mourning Amazons. This fine Sarco phagus was found near Torre Salona, on the Via Collatina. Upon the walla are numeroua Roman inacriptions, with an intereating seriea of the Signa Tegu- laria, or private marks of the Roman brick-makers. The Saloon (11), (a fine room, with a heavy painted and gilt roof, in sunk panels, of the time of Innocent X.). — The 2 fluted columns oiportasanta mar ble on each sideof the niche in this saloon were found near the tomb of Ca3cilia Metella. The 2 Victories which sup port the arms of Clement XII. are said to have belonged to the Arch of Marcus Aurelius in the Corso. In the middle of the hall are — 1. Jupiter (/), in black marble, on a circular altar found at Porto d'Anzio. 2 and 4. The beautiful centaurs in bigio- morato (gg), amongst the fine works of ancient sculpture in Rome, were found in Hadi'ian' s villa. On tho base are the names of the sculptors, •Aristeas and Paphiaa of Aphrodisium. A colossal statue of the infant Her cules, in green basalt (d), found on the Aventine. 5. iEsculapius, in nero antico (e), on a circular altar, with reliefs rela tive to Jupiter, both found at Porto d' Anzio. 6. Roman matron (Julia Pia?). 7. Lucius Antonius. 8. Apollo with a lyre. 9. Statue of Marcus Au relius. 10 and 25. Amazons wounded. 11. Statues as Mars and Venua, found on the Isola Sacra at the mouth of the Tiber. 12. Isia with a lotus on the head. 15. The Pythian ApoUo. 3, 16. 2 statues of Minerva Belliea. 17. Co- loasal bust of Trajan with a civic crown. 18. A naked atatue with the head of Augustus. 19. Female Btatue with the head of Lucilla. 21. Naked statue of Hadrian, as Mare, found near Ceprano. 22. A Roman in his toga, called Marius, fromwhich Chantreycopiedhis statue of Canning in Palace Yard. 24. Hercules (h), in gilt bronze, found in the Forum Boarium; one of the few ancient atatuea in which the gilding ia preserved. The altar underneath has in front a bas- rehef of a Bitting figure of Fortune or Abundance. 27. A gladiator. 28. A Prsefica or hired mourner at funerals. 31. Colossal bust of Antoninus Pius. 33. A hunter with a hare, found near the Porta Latina. 34. Harpocrates, 270 § 26. MUSEUM OP THE CAPITOL. Rome. with bis finger on hia mouth, found at Hadrian's villa in 1744. • Sail of Illustrious Men (12). — The baa-reliefa on the walls are the follow ing: — Frieze, conaisting of 5 piecea, probably from a temple of Neptune, representing sacrificial instruments, with 3 good reliefs of trident prows of galleys and other naval emblems. Death of Meleager, the front of a sarcophagus. Calliope instructing Orpheus. An in terment. Conveying a dead body to the funeral pile. A victory. A sacrifice to Hygeia, in roaso-antico. A bacchic scene, with the name of the sculptor Callhnachns, found at Orte. In the centre of the hall ia a fine sitting atatue (i), suppoaed to be of Marcus Claudius Marcellus, one of the greatest generals of antiquity, the conqueror of Viridomar, B.C. 222. Round the room, on 2 rangea of ahelves, are placed 93 busta of philosophers, poets, and his torians : — 1. Virgil, very doubtful ; by some called Alexander the Great. 4, 5, 6. Socrates. 7. Alcibiadea. 8. Carneades. 10. Seneca. 11. Aspasia (?). 13. Ly- cias. 16. Marcus Agrippa, a colossal bust. 17. Hieron. 19. Theopbrastus, colossal. 20. Marcus Am-elius. 21. Diogenes. 22. Plato. 23. Thales. 24. Aaclepiades. 25. Theon. 27. Pytha goras. 28. Bust, called Alexander the Great. 30. Aristophanes (?). 31, 32. Demosthenes. 33. Pindar. 34. Sopho cles. 37. Hippocratea. 38. Aratus. 39, 40. Democritus. 41, 42, 43. Euri pides. 44, 45, 46. Homer. 48. Cor- bulo. 49. Bust of Scipio Africanus, with the wound on the left side of his head carefully worked out. 51. Pompey. 52. Cato the Censor. 53. Aristotle. 54. Sappho. 55. Cleopatra. 57. Lysias. 59. Herodotus (?), according to some Arminius. 60. Thucydides. 62, 94. Epicurus. 63. Double Hermea of Epicm-us and Metrodorua. 65. Pytho- daris. 68, 69. Maainissa. 70. Antis- thenes. 72, 73. The Emperor Julian. 75. Cicero, supposed by some to be Asiniua Pollio. 76. Terence (very doubtful), roughly executed, with a comic mask on the shoidder, discovered on the Via Latina. 82. iEschylus. There are several heads which bear the name of Plato, but they are more pro bably busta of the bearded Batoohua. Sail of the Emperors (13). — On the walls are a series of bas-reliefs, arranged in the following order: — Triumphs of Bacchus, and children at the games of the Circus. Bacchus on a tiger, with fauns and satyrs. The Muaes. A good bas-relief of Peraeua delivering An dromeda. Socrates with Philosophy, and Hesiod with a Muse ; the 2 latter reliefs are caats from a aarcophagus in Paris. A sleeping Endymion with his dog, found on the Aventine. A bas-rehef dedicated by a freed man of Marcus Aurelius to the Fountains and Nymphs: in front a river-god, with a group of 3 Nymphs, similar to the celebrated group of the Graces in the Gallery at Siena; and on the other side, Hylaa carried off by the river-nymphs. In the middle of this hall ia the sitting Statue (k) of Agrippina the elder, the daughter of M. Agrippa, wife of Ger- manicus, and mother of Caligula, re markable for the eaae of the position and the arrangement of the drapery ; archaeologiats are not, however, agreed on the personage whom it represents. Around the room are arranged 83 buata of the Roman emperora and empresses in chronological order, a collection of great value, presenting us the por traits of some of the most remarkable personages in history ; beneath each is affixed the name. The following are the most interesting: — 1. Julius Caesar. 2. Augustus. 3. The young Marcel lus (?). 4, 5. Tiberius. 6. Drusus, his brother. 7. Drusus, hia aon. 8. Antonia, the wife of the first Drusus, mother of Germanicus and Claudius. 9. Germanicus. 10. His wife, Agrip pina. 11. Caligula, in green basalt. 12. Claudius. 13. Messalrna, the fifth, and, 14. Agrippina, the sixth wife of Claudius. 15, 16. Nero. 17. Poppcea, his wife. 18. Galba. 19. Otho. 20. Vitellius. 21. Vespasian. 22. Titus. 23. Julia, his daughter. 24. Domitian. 25. Domitia Longina. 26. Nerva, Sect. I. § 26. THE LATEEAN. 271 Bupposed to be modern and by Algardi. 27. Trajan. 28. Plotina, wife of Trajan. 29. His sister Marciana. 30. His daugh ter Matidia. 31, 32. Hadrian. 33. Julia Sabina, hia wife. 34. iElius Caeaar, his adopted son. 35. Antoninus Pius. 37. Annius Verus. 38. Marcus Aurelius. 39. Faustina, his wife. 41. Lucius Verus. 42. Hia wife, Lucilla. 43. Commodua. 44. Criapina, hie wife. 45. Pertinax. 46. Di'Hus Julianua. 48. Peacenniua Niger. 49. Clodius Albinus. 50,51. Septimius Severus. 52. His wife, Julia Pia, with a wig. 53. Caracalla. 54. Geta. 55. Macrinus. 56. Didumenianus. 57. Elagabalus. 58. Annia Faustina, his wife. 59. Julia Maesa. 60. Alexander Severus. 61. Julia Mammaea, his mother. 62. Maxi- miniua. 63. Maximus. 64. Gordian the elder. 65. Gordian the younger. 66. Pupienus. 67. Balbinus. 68. Gordianus Pius. 70. Trajanua Deems. 71. Quintns Herennius. 72. Hostilianua. 73. Trebonianus. 74, 75. Volusianus. 76. Gallienus. 77. Salonina, wife of Gallienus. 78. Saloninus, their son. 79. Carinus. 80. Diocletian. 81. Con stantius Chlorua. 82. Julian. 83, Magnua Decentius, a specimen of the extreme degradation which sculpture had reached in the 5th centy. The Reserved Cabinet (14), a small room on the rt. of- the gallery, may be seen on any other than the public days by giving a paul to the custode. It con- taina the Venus op the Capitol, one ofthe most noble of all the representa tions of that goddess ; is in Pentelie marble ; and waa found, it is said, in a walled-up chamber in the Suburra on the Viminal, and ao entire that the only parta fractured were the point of the nose and one of the fingers. Leda and the Swan, of very inferior workman ship ; and the Cupid and Psyche found on the Aventine, two graceful figures. The Sail of the Doves (15).— 37. The Iliac Table, a bas-relief repre senting the principal events in the history of the Iliad and the fall of Troy, with the deliverance of iEneas by Stesichorus; engraved and illus trated by Fabretti, who refers it to the time of Nero. 41. Triumph of Bacchus. 69. The fine sarcophagus of Gerontia, with bas-reliefs of the history of Diana and Endymion. Above it are 2 mosaic masks, found in the vineyard of the Jesuits on the Aventine. 77. Diana of Ephesus, or Multimammtea. 100. A small sarcophagus, with intereating re- liefa, representing the creation and de struction of the soul according to the doctrmes of the later Platonists. 101. The celebrated Doves of Pliny, one of the finest and most perfectly pre served specimens of ancient mosaic. It repreeents 4 dovee drinking, with a beautiful border surrounding the com position, and is formed of natural stones, so small that 160 pieces are contained in a square inch. It is sup posed to be the mosaic by Sosus, de scribed by Pliny as a proof of the per fection to which that art had reached in his day. He aays there is at Pergamos a wonderful specimen of a dove drinking, and darkening the water with the shadow of her head ; on the lip of the vessel others are pluming themselves. " Mirabilia ibi columba bibens, et aquam umbra capitia infua- cans. Apricantur aliae scabentes aese in cathari labro." It waa found in Villa Adriana in 1737 by Cardinal Furietti, from whom it was purchased by Clement XIII. In the recess of one of the windowa ia a collection of writing styles, discovered a few years ago in cleaning out the flight of steps leading from the Tabularium of the Capitol to the Forum (see p. 23) ; and on the shelves a large collection of busts, evidently portraita, several of which are finely executed ; and upon the walls above, some Pagan and early Christian inscriptions. The Tabularium of the Capitol (the entrance is on the 1. side of the descent towarda the Forum ; the Cus tode who lives next door will open it on application) has been fitted up to form a kind of Architectural Museum. It contains several frag- 272 § 26, LATERAN MUSEUM. Rome, ments discovered in the excavationa of the neighbouring Forum and Ba- edica Julia : two very fine apecimens from the Templea of Vespasian and Minerva Chalcidica have been placed here, and restored so as to convey a correct idea of the entablature and friezes of these chefs-d'oeuvre of the Ro man Corinthian style. The visitor will do well to descend the remarkable Btaira recently cleared out which led to the Forum, and by which the Vitellian bands are supposed to have invaded the Capitol (see pp. 23 and 32). The Lateeas. The Lateran was the palace of the popes from the time of Constantine to the period of the return of the Holy See from Avignon (1377), when Gre* gory XL transferred the papal residence to the Vatican. The ancient palace was deatroyed by fire in the pontificate of Clement V., and was rebuilt by Sixtua V. from the designs of Fontana. It waa converted into an hoapital by Innocent XII. in 1693 ; and in 1843 into a Muaeum by Gregory XVI., as the beat meana of preventing the build- 1 u 15 . 16 • , * ! ID c in LATERAN MUSEUM GBt«T E COURT Ground Floor. : fcjtjj jlj l_l -h-M _^ 3L LATERAN PALACE AND MUSEUM, Grotmd Floor. A. Principal entrance. B 3 3. Lowor corridors or portico, C, North entrance, closed up. (), East entrance. E, Great court F, Grand staircase leading to state apartments. 0, Corridor leading to Christian Museum, fc, Entrance to Christian Museum. c c c c, Doors opening into Halls of Sculptures. . Hall of Mosaic d, Ancient Mosaic of Boxers. Architectural fragments. Antique Sculptures fromOstia andVia Appin, 5. '„ the Stag. 6, ,, the family of the Ciesars, from Cervetri. 7. ,, Sophoclos (r>). p, Faun. 8. „ Neptune ( e 9 1 yl 1 ill k\ ~SX 1 m i L_ fc_t_ I xm -! I L. JL Jo.y*.- a. Entrance from Court. o. Raphael's Entombment. c. Correggio's Danae. d. Domenichino's Sibyl. e. „ Chace of Diana. printed hand-catalogues for the use of visitors. We shall therefore only notice here the most remarkable paintings out of upwards of 850 which constitute thia magnificent collection. Room I. — 1. S. Botticelli. Madonna and Child. — 2. Lor. de Credi. A Holy Family. — 3. Paris Alfani. A Holy Family.— 30, 34. Perugino. A Nazzareno and Madonna. — 32. Leonardo da Vinci. The Saviour. — 35. Raphael. A Portrait of himaelf in his youth (?). — 36. F.Lippi. Portrait of Savonarola. — 48. Perugino. San Se bastiano. — 49, 57. Pinturicchio. Events in the life of Joaeph ; the namea of the principal persona are written underthem. — 43, 61. Franeia. Virgin and Child, and a half-figure of St. Anthony.— 69. A. Pollajuolo. TheNativity . And seve ral pictures ofthe schools of Perugino, Raphael, and Leonardo da Vinci. Room II. — 2 handsome fountains in ala- bastro fiorito are placed in the centre of this room.— 1, 2, 5, 8, 10, 13. Garofalo. The Deposition, No. 9, a fine picture. — 6. Franeia. Madonna and Saints. — 21. Raphael. A very fine portrait of a cardinal. — 25. Ra phael. A portrait called Caesar Bor gia. — 18. Giulio Romano. Copy of | /, g. Albano's four Seasons. h. Raphael's Archers. i. Sacred and Profane Love. k. Vandyke's Entombment. Raphael's Julius II. — 39. Fra Barto lommeo. A Holy Family. — 36. A. del Sarto. Holy Family. — 38. Raphael. His magnificent picture of the Deposi tion or Entombment of Christ (b). The Entombment was painted by Raphael in his 24th year. It was executed by the illustrious artist after his return from Florence for the ch. of St. Fran cesco at Perugia, being a commission from Atalanta Baglioni, soon after Giovanni Paolo Baglioni had regained the sovereignty of that city. On one side of the composition the Saviour ia borne to the sepulchre by 2 men, whose ve hement action contrasts strongly with the lifeless body ; the intensity and varied expression of grief are finely shown in the S. Peter, the S. John, and the Magdalen, who surround the corpse, while, on the other side, the Virgin, overwhelmed by her affliction, has fainted in the arms of her attendants. It bears the signature Raphael Urbinas, and date m.d.vii. Some sketchea for this picture were in Sir Thos. Law rence's collection ; the finest in that of the Uffizi at Florence. The subjects of the predella, 3 figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity, are in the Pina- 286 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES. — P. BORGHESE. cotheca at the Vatican. — 44. So doma. A Holy Family. — 51. Eeancia. S. Stephen, a very fine picture ; and 55, 56. 2 Madonnas. — 65. Giulio Romano. A copy of Raphael's Fomarina of the Barberini Gallery.— 34, 35. Andrea del Sarto. Holy Families. — 53. Timoteo da Urbino. An interesting portrait of young Raphael. — 54. Garofalo. The Madonna, with S. Peter and S. Paul, a small picture; and several othera by the same painter, under the Noa. 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, and 67.-59. Maz- zolino da Ferrara. The Adoration of the Magi. — Room III. — 1. A. Solario. Chriat bearing the Croas. 4. Vasari. Lucretia. — 7, 8. MichelAngelo. 2 Apos tles, paintings on panel, in his early manner. — 18. Vasari. Leda. — 24, 28, and 29. Andrea del Sarto. Madonna and Child, with Angels and S. John, the second a fine picture. — 32 and 33. Pierino del Vaga. A Madonna and a Holy Family. — 34. Pontormo. S. Se bastian. — 35. Andrea del Sarto. Venus and Cupid. — 40. Correggio. Da nae (e) ; a very fine and celebrated pic ture. — 42. Bronzino. Portrait of Cosi mo I. de Medicis. — 46. Sassoferrato. Virgin and Child. — 48. Sebastian del Piombo. Our Saviour at the column, said to have been sketched by Michel Angelo as the original design for the well-known painting in S. Pietro Mont orio. 49. Andrea del Sarto. A fine Mag dalen. Room IV. — 1. An. Caracci. A Deposition from the Crosa. — 2. Do menichino. The Cum-Ean" Sibyl (d), one of hia most celebrated and graceful paintings. — 3.Lod. Caracci. S. Caterina da Siena bome to Heaven by Angela. — Ag. Caracci. A Pieta. — 10. Cav. Arpino. The Rape of Europa. — 15. Guido Cagnacci. A good Sibyl. — 23. An. Ca racci. S. Francis. — 33. Luca Giordano. S. Ignatius devoured by wild heaats in the ampitheatre. — 20. Guido. Head of S. Joaeph. — 30. Cigoli. S. Franeia.- — 29. An. Caracci. S. Dominick. — 37. Id. Head of Christ. — 21. Flisabetta Sirani. Lucretia. 36, 37. Sassoferrato. A Madonna ; an Adolorata. Madonna and Child. Room V. — 5. Scipione Gaetano. A Holy Family. — 6. Cam. Arpino. The Flagellation. — 11, 12, 13, 14. Albano. 4 fine cir cular pictures (f, g), representing the Seasons. — 15. Domenichino. The Chase of Diana (e), a very celebrated picture ; the goddess, attended by her nymphs, ia awarding, the prize of the bow and quiver to one of them who has just shot off her arrow. — 21. Francesco Mola. S. Peter released from prison. — 25. Fed. Zucchero. A Deposition. — ¦ 26. Caravaggio. Madonna and Child, with Santa Anna. — 27. Padovanino. Venus dressing. RoomYI. — 1. Guer cino. La Madonna Adolorata. — 3. An drea Sacchi. Portrait of Orazio Giusti- niani. — 5. Guercino. The Return of the Prodigal Son. — 7. Pietro da Cortona. Portrait of G. Ghislieri, in imitation of Vandyke's style. — 10. Ribera. St. Sta nislaus with the infant Christ. — 13. Sassoferrato. Copy of Titian's Three Ages of Man.- — 24, 25. Gaspar Poussin. 2 landscapes. Room VII. — A long gal lery, called the Stanza degli Specchi, the walls being covered with mirrors. On 2 tables of red porphyry are an tique bronze statuettes, and in the centre one formed of an immense variety of ancient marbles. The paintings on the mirrors are for the putti by Giro- firi ; the flowers by Mario dei Fiori. Room VIII. — 3. Tempesta, Battle- piece. — 33. Salvator Rosa. A land scape. — 100. Paul Potter. Cattle feed ing. — 87. Paul Brill. Madonna with animals. There are some mosaics by Matteo Provenzale in this room : the best, No. 1, a portrait of Paul V. Room IX. — 1, 2, 3. Frescoes from the so-called Casino of Raphael, afterwarda the Villa Olgiati, which once stood in the grounds of the Villa Borghese, from the walls of which they were detached; the two first (1 and 2) represent the marriage of Alexander and Roxana. No. 3 (h) is the cele brated painting of Archers Shooting at a target with the arrows of the sleeping Cupid, allegorical to the Passions, sup posed to be from a design by Michel Angelo; a magnificent composition, perhaps unequalled in fresco-painting. There are aome other frescoes of the Sect. I. § 26. P. BRASCHI P. BONAPARTE. 287 school of Giuflio Romano, from the Villa Lante on the Janiculum. Room X. — Thia and the following room are chiefly dedicated to the Venetian school. — 2. Titian. The Three GraceB. — 3. Paul Veronese. Sta. Cecilia. — Luca Cambiase. Venua and Adonis. — ¦ 13. Giorgione. David bearing the head of Goliah. — 14. Paul Veronese. St. John preaching in the Desert. — 16. Titian. San Dominick. - — 19. Bassano. His own portrait. — 21. Titian. Saceed andPropane Love (*) ; an allegorical composition representing 2 figures sitting near the edge of a foun tain : one clothed in white with a red sleeve, the other with a red drapery over the 1. shoulder ; a young Cupid is looking into the water. 22. Lionello Spada. A Concert. 34. P. Veronese. SS. Cosimo e Damiano. — Giov. Bellini. Virgin and Child.— 43. The Preach ing of Our Lord : a sketch for a large picture. RoomUl. — 1. Lorenzo Lotto. A Madonna and Saints. — 2. Paul Veronese. S. Antony preaching to the Fishes. — 3. Titian. Holy Family with St. John. — 11. Luca Cambiaso. Venus on a Dolphin. — 15, 16. Bonifazio. Jesus in the house of Zebedee, and the Return of the Prodigal Son, 2 good specimens of the master. — 17. Titian. Samson. — 32. Palma Vecchio. Madonna and Saints. — 33. Licino da Pordenone. Hia own portrait, aurrounded by hia family. — 31. Gian Bellini. Madonna and Child, with S. Peter. Room XII. The pictures in thia room are of the Dutch and Flemish schools. — 1. Vandyke. Christ on the Cross. 7. The En tombment (k). — 22. Paul Potter. Cat tle. — 26. Rembrandt (?) Boors on the Ice. Portrait of Marie de Medicis. — 15. Rubens. The Visitation of S. Elizabeth. — 20, 24, 35. Solbein. 3 unknown por traits. — 19. Albert Durer. Portrait of Louis VI., duke of Bavaria. — 23. Back- huysen. A magnificent sea-piece. — 36. Luca Cranach. A portrait. 44. A Venus and Cupid. — 49. Sandthorst. Lot and his Daughters. In Room XIII., gene rally closed, but which will be opened by the custode, is a collection of more than 100 small subjects, chiefly of artists of the 15th centy., with a very handsome Madonna and Child of the school of Raphael, recently purchased by Prince Borghese. Palazzo Braschi, forming the angle of the Piazza di Pasquino, built at the close of the last century by Pius VI., for his nephew the duke Braschi, from the designs of Morelli. It is re markable for its imposing staircase, ornamented with 16 columns of red oriental granite, and 4 statueB of Corn- modus, Cerea, Achilles, and Bacchus. This palace once contained a small col lection of pictures, but they have been dispersed within the last few years. The P. Braschi stands on the site of the Carceres of the Circus Agonalis. The celebrated statue of Pasquin, which is placed against one of the outer walls of this palace, has already been noticed at p. 97. Palazzo Bonaparte, formerly Ri- nuccini, at the corner of the Piazza di Venezia and Corso, built in 1660 from the designs of Gio. de' Rossi. It waa formerly the property of Madame Mere, the mother of Napoleon, who died here, and at present belongs to her great- grandson, Prince Napoleon Charles Bo naparte, and occupied by his brother Card. Bonaparte. It contains some modern pictures connected with the history of the first French Empire, chiefly portraits of members of the Imperial family. Falazzo della Cancelleria, one of the moat magnificent palaces in Rome, begun by Cardinal Mezzarota, and completed in 1495 by Cardinal Riario, nephew of Sixtus IV., from the deaigna of Bramante. It waa built with tra vertine taken from the Coliseum ; the 44 columns of red granite which sustain the double portico of its court are sup posed to have belonged to the Theatre of Pompey. The gateway was de signed by Fontana. The great saloon is decorated with freacoes by Vasari, Salviati, &c, the firat repreaenting eventa in the hiatory of Paul III. Thia palace is the official reaidenee of the Cardinal Vice-Chancellor, and the seat 288 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES. — P. CENCI. Rome. of several Ecclesiastical Boards or Con- gregazioni. In June 1848 it was the place of meeting of the Roman Par liament, summoned by Pius IX. at the commencement of the reforms which finally drove him fromhis capital. In the next month it was the scene of the me morable outrage in which the mob burst into the ehamberwhilethe deputiea were sitting, and demanded an immediate declaration of war againat Auatria. In the November following it acquired an infamous celebrity as the scene of the assassination of Count Rosbi, the en lightened minister of Pius IX., on going to a meeting of the Chambers, then aa- sembled here ; this atrocious crime took place at the foot of the great staircaae, on the 1., near to a door now cloaed. The inner court of the palace is very beautiful, surrounded by a double Doric portico, surmounted by an elegant attic ornamented with Corinthian pilasters. The front, towards the Piazza and ad joining atreet, ia alao very fine, although spoiled near the W. angle by eome un seemly conatructiona, and by the mean bell-tower of the ch. of St. Lorenzo in Damaso ; the great entrance of Fon tana is not in the best harmony with the architecture of Bramante's edifice. Palazzo di Caserta, or Caetani, hi the Via delle Botteghe Scure, formerly a portion of the P. Mattei. It is the residence of the Duke di Sermoneta, the head of the great baronial family of Cae tani. The first floor, which is hand somely furnished, contains several fa mily pictures, and is generally let to rich foreigners, the situation near the foot of the Capitol being healthy at all seasons. The family archives pre served in this palace are perhaps the most complete of any of the great Roman houses ; some deeds of dona tion to the Caetanis being of the 9th and 10th centuries. The Caetanis were once lords of all the country from Velletri to Fondi ; they gave 2 popes to the throne of St. Peter, Gelasiua II. and Boniface VIIL, and were the rivals of the Colonnas and Orsmis in thefr long contests with the popes in the 11th and 12th centuries. Their vast estates were confiscated by Alexander VI. in favour of one of his bastard sons, but aub- sequently restored, with the ducal title borne by the family, now the oldest amongst the princely Roman houses. The preaent head of the family is the talented Duke of Sermoneta, well known aa Don Michel Angelo Caetani, and Prince of Teano, to many of our countrymen who have reaided at Rome. Palazzo Cenci. — There are 2 palaces known by thia name in Rome. The firat, called also P. Macearani, from its present owner, ia aituated oppo- aite the church of S. Eustachio, near the Pantheon ; it was built in 1526 from the designs of Giulio Romano, ' and is only remarkable for its archi tecture. The second Cenci Palace, the ancient residence of the family, stands partly on the site of the Theatre of Balbus, near the western entrance to the Ghetto. Opposite to the pa lace is the little church of S. Tommaso a' Cenci, founded in 1113 by Cencio bishop of Sabina, and granted by Julius II. to Rocco Cencio, whose descendant, the notorious Count Francesco, re built it in 1575, as we see by in scriptions over the doors. The ch. is small, much neglected, .and seldom open. The Cenci chapel, restored in 1661, is covered with frescoes, in a good style, of hiatoriea of the Virgin, with a handaome roof decorated with stuccoes and arabesque paintings. Although erected as a sepulchral chapel for the family, it does not contain a single monument to the Cencis. The palace, an immense and gloomy pile of massive architecture, was for manyyears deserted and left without doors or windows or any sign of human habitation, to tell, as forcibly as a building could, the story of crime : it seemed to have been stricken with the curse of which Bea trice Cenci was the victim. Within the last few years, however, it has been rendered habitable. It has recently been purchased by the Government. Shel ley notices the court supported by granite columns, and adorned with an- Sect. I. § 26. P. COLONNA. 289 tique friezes of fine workmanship, and built up according to the ancient Ita lian fashion with balcony over balcony of open work. He was particularly struck with one of the gates, formed of immense stones, and leading through a dark and lofty passage (now closed up) opening into gloomy subterranean chambers. Ita position in the most ob scure quarter of Rome, and its gloomy aspect, are perfectly in keeping with the atrocities perpetrated within its walls, which led to the tragedy enacted at another place (Petrella — Sandbook of South Italy, Rte. 142), which has given auch a melancholy interest to the name of Cenci. Palazzo Chigi, forming the N. side of the Piazza Colonna, built in 1526 from the designs of Giacomo della Porta, and completed by Carlo Ma derno. In one of the antechambers are the Skull and the Sleeping Child, sculptured by Bernini, as emblems of life and death. In the saloon are 3 ancient statues : a Venus, in Parian marble, with a Greek inscription ; Mercury with the caduceus ; and an Apollo, supposed to be of the time of Hadrian. The pictures are in the apartments occupied by the family, and are consequently not open to the public. Among them the following may be noticed: — I. — Guercino. St. Francis. — Guido. St. Cecilia; a Na tivity. — Caravaggio. St. John the Bap tist drinking at a spring. II. — Pietro da Cortona. A Guardian Angel. — Guer cino. Christ at the column. — Agostino Caracci. A dead Christ. — Salvator ' Rosa. A satyr disputing with a phi losopher, who ia said to be a portrait of Salvator himself. — Titian. Two por traits. — Spagnoletto. A Magdalen. III. — Andrea Sacchi. Sketch for the picture of S. Romualdo, in the Vatican ; a Saint; the BlessedBernardoTolomei of Siena. — Guido. A Pieta. In the upper rooms is a cabinet adorned with sketches by Giulio Romano, Bernini, Andrea Sacchi, &c. The Library is the most interesting part of the palace. It was founded by Alexander VIL, [Rome.] and is rich in MSS. of great interest. Among these are the Chronicles of St. Benedict and St. Andrew, the Chro nicle of the Monastery of San Oreste or Soracte, a Dionysius of Halicar- nassua of the 9th century, a Daniel of the Septuagint vereion, an illuminated Miasal of 1450, a folio volume of French and Flemish music, containing motettes and masses, dated 1490 ; a letter of Henry VIII. to the Count Palatine, requesting him to show no mercy to Luther ; several inedited letters of Melanchthon,some sonnets of Tasso, 20 volumes of original documents relating to the treaty of Westphalia, and a large collection of inedited and almost unknown materials for the literary and political history of Europe. Near the Palazzo Chigi, forming the W. side of the Piazza Colonna, is that belonging to the Hospital of San Mi- chele, remarkable for its fine Ionic por tico ; the principal part of the columns having been discovered amongst the ruins of the Roman Municipium of Veii. Thia palace, formerly occupied by the Post and other public offices, is now a club-house for the officers of the French garrison. The other palaces forming the sides of the Piazza Colonna are on the E. the Palazzo Piombino, belonging to the head of the Buon- eampagni Ludovisi family; and on the S. the Palazzo Terraioli. The P. Chigi stands on the site of the Temple of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus. Palazzo Cicciaporci, now Falconieri, in the Via de' Banchi Nuovi, not far from the S. extremity of the Ponte di S. Angelo, built in 1526, is remarkable for its architecture by Giulio Romano. Near this ia the Palazzo Cesarini, inha bited by the ducal family of that name ; it was the residence of Alexander VI. when Cardinal Lenzuoli Borgia, before his elevation to the pontificate. Palazzo Colonna, in the Piazza di SS. Apoatoli, commenced by Pope Martin V. in the 15th century, and completed in later timea. It formed at one period the residence of Julius II. 0 290 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES — P. COLONNA. Rome. Geound Plan op the Picture Galleet at the Colonna Palace, ""H — ~ 1 A I 111 I C ra ¦of o VY J3L and subsequently of San Carlo when Cardinal Borromeo. It now belongs to the princely family whose name it bears ; a portion of the state apartments have been let for several years past, and now form the residence of the Ambas sador of France. The apartment on the ground-floor contains some frescoes by Tempesta, Pomarancio, and Gaspar Poussin ; those on the ceilings have been even attributed to Perugino. The Colonna picture gallery, once the moat conaiderable in Rome, although it haa been much reduced by diviaion amongst the outgoing branches of the family, still contains some fine worka, which are arranged in a series of rooms leading to the Hall or Gallery for which the palace is so celebrated. The gallery, which is entered from the great stairs leading from the N. corner of the court, and whicli leads to the apartments of the French Ambassador, ia open on Monday, Thursday, and Saturday, from 10 to 3 o'clock. The names of the masters only are affixed on each paint ing. In the three rooms (a b c) pre ceding those of the pictures are several specimens of Gobelins and Arras tapeatry, and a good buat called Vi- tellius. Room l.—S. Botticelli. Ma donna and Child. — Luca Lunghi. A good Holy Family. — Bagnacavallo. A Military Cavalcade. — Melozzo da Forli. St. Roch. — Giovanni Sanzio. Portrait of a Boy in a red cap. — Luini. A good Virgin and Child. — Giacomo di Avanzi of Bologna. A Crucifixion. — Albano. Two large Landscapes, with groups of figurea. — Giulio Romano. TheMadonna and Child. — Gentile da Fabriano. A Madonna surrounded by angels. — Par- Sect. I. § 26. P. COLONNA. 291 migianino. A. Holy Family. — Innocenzo da Imola. A Holy Family. — Guercino. Moaea. — P. da Cortona. The Reaurrec- tion ; below are portraits of aeveral persons rising from their sepulchrea. VanFyk 1 2 picturea ofthe Virgin, sur rounded by small medallions of histories of her life. Passing through the Throne- room (II.), is, Room III. — Titian. A good portrait of Onofrio Panvinio, the celebrated antiquarian, as an Austin friar. — Girolamo da Trevigi. A por trait, supposed to be of Poggio Brac- ciolini, the Florentine historian. These portraits were long considered to be by Titian, and called Luther and Calvin, for which there waa not the remoteat foundation. — Bronzino. A Holy Family. — Carletto Cagliari. A Lady playing on the guitar. — Guercino. The Guardian Angel. — Albano. The Rape of Europa. — An. Carraci, the Mangia Faggioli, a ridiculoua carica ture, but true to life. — Lo Spagna. S. Jerome in the Deaert. — Paris Bordone. A Holy Family, with St. Sebastian and other Saints. — Bonifacio. A Holy Family, with SS. Anne and Jerome. — Salviati. A Madonna. — Solbein. A portrait of Lorenzo Colonna, brother to Martin V. — Paul Veronese. A fine male portrait. — D. Crespi. San Carlo. —F. Mola. Death of Abel. — Guido. S. Agnes. — Sassoferrato. A Madonna. — Guercino. The Angel Gabriel. — Giov. Bellini. S. Bernardo. — Salviati. The Resurrection of Lazarus. — Rubens. Joseph and his Brethren ; a sketch. — ¦ Scarsellini. The Apparition of the Virgin to some Franciscan friars. The paintings in the centre of the ceiling, representmg the Apotheosis of Martin V., are by Luiti and Pompeo Battoni. Room IV. — This room, which forms one of the extremities of the great gal lery, ia covered with landscapes ; eight in tempera, by Gaspar Poussin. — A small pretty Claude. — Poussin. Apollo and Daphne. — Wouvermans. 2 large battle-pieces. — Salvator Rosa. A sea shore scene. 2 good landscapea by Swanevelt; several by Orizonte and Crescenzio di Onofri ; some Berghems, P. Brills, and Canalettis. On one side of this hall is a handsome cabinet, with 27 bas-reliefs in ivory, executed by the German artist Steinhart, and copied from Michel Angelo's Last Judgment in the Sistine Chapel, and from 26 of Raphael's subjects in the Loggie. — The Great Sail or Gallery (V.), one of the finest in Rome, is ornamented with ancient statuea, none of which are of any merit; the walls are de corated with Venetian mirrors, painted with wreaths of flowers and Cupids, the former by Mario dei Fiori, the latter by Carlo Maratta. In the recess of one of the windows on the rt. a good bas-relief of a colossal head of Mmerva. On the tables are some antique bronzes, and a small bronze statue of a faun, by Sansovino ; the roof ia covered with frescoes relative to the deeds of the Colonna family ; the largest, in the centre, by Coli and Gherardi, represents the Battle of Lepanto. The following are the principal picturea on the sides of the Great Hall, and the raised one beyond it towards the garden : — Rubens. An Assumption. — C. Allori. The Descent into Hades. — B. Strozzi. La Carita Romana. — Subtermans. Portrait of Federigo Colonna. — Two St. Jeromes by Guercino and. Spagnoletto. — Salviati, Adam and Eve in the Garden. — Van dyke. Fine portrait of C. Colonna, Dukede'Marai. — Guercino. Martyrdom of S. Emerenziana. — Albano. An Ecce Homo. — Sc. Gaetano. Portrait of Antonio Colonna. — Several membera of the Colonna family round a table, with their names, by the same artist. — 67. Cagliari. Portrait of Stefano Colonna. — Salviati. Adam and Eve. — Tinto retto. Narcissus. — Vasari. Two re cumbent figures of Venus. — Ghir landajo. Two pictures of the Rape of the Sabines, and the Peace celebrated between the Romans and Sabines. — Palma Vecchio. St. Peter presenting a Donatario to the Madonna and Child. — Titian. A Holy Family. — Vandyke. Portrait of Lucrezia Colonna. — L. de Leyde. The Temptations of St. Antony. — Bronzino. Venus and Cupid. — Salviati. The same subject, but less chaste. — Ag. Caracci. Portrait of Car- o 2 292 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES. — P. CORSINI. Rome. dinal Pompeo Colonna. — Giorgione^ Portrait of Giacomo Sciarra Colonna. — Simone da Pesaro. S. Sebastian. — Poussin. Shepherdesses, some asleep. — S. Rosa. St. John in the Desert, and St. John preaching in the Wilderness; the painter is aaid to have introduced his own likeness into the first picture. — Two fine male portraits. — Nicola da Foligno. A curious picture of the Madonna libe rating a child from the Demon. — An. Caracci.. The Magdalen in Glory. — Lanfranco. St.PeterinPriaon. — Guido. S. Francis and Angels. In the centre of (VI.) the hall next the garden is the so- called Colonna Bellica (b), a torse column in red marble, surmounted by a statue of Mars; round the column run a series of low reliefs, commencing with a sacri fice and continued with military pro- ceasions, the whole probably a work of the 16th century. The gardens behind the palace extend along the western slope of the Quirinal, and consist of a series of terraces rising to the summit, and are well planted in avenues of box and ilexes. There are considerable ruins in them, consisting of large halls and massive brick-walls, and upon the sum mit two portions of a gigantic frieze and entablature, one measuring 1490 cubic feet of white marble, and weigh ing upwards of 100 tons : they belonged probably to the Temple of the Sun, erected by Aurelian on the Quirinal. The entrance to the gardens ia from the extremity of the gallery, which will be opened by the cuatode, near to which are two statues of Proapero and Marc Antonio Colonna, the torsos of which are ancient. The palace itself stands upon the site of the S.W. extremity of the portico winch led to the Temple of the Sun. Palazzo della Consulta, on Monte Cavallo, built by Clement XII., from the designa of Fuga, in 1730. The palace is considered one of Fnga's most successful works. It ia now about to be attached to the Quirinal Palace for the use of the Court. Palazzo Corsini, in the Lungara of theTrastevere,built by the Riario family, enlarged and altered into its present form by Clement XII., in 1729, from the designs of Fuga. In the 17th century it was the residence of Chria- tina queen of Sweden, who died in it in 1689. A grand double staircase leads to the gallery, which is open on Mondays, Thuradays, and Saturdays, on the 1st and 15th of every month, and every day from Palm Sunday until that after Eaater, from 10 un til 3 ; there are hand-cataloguea in Italian and French in all the rooma. Opening out of the great hall of the palace (XII.), we enter Room I. A marble sarcophagus, found near Porto d'Anzio, ornamented with reliefs of Tri tons and Nereids ; and overthe entrance door a portion of an early Christian urn, with reliefs representing the vintage. — 9. Teresa Muratori. The Plague at Milan. — 6. Baroccio. Holy Family. — 10. C. Maratta. Marriage of St. Catherine. —17, 18, 20, 21. Locatelli. Rural scenes in the style of Teniers. — 24, 26. Canaletti. Views of Venice. Room II. contains no paintings worth noticing : out of it opens on the 1. Room III., or the Gallery, where there are some fine pictures. 1. Guercino. An Ecco Homo. 2. Carlo Dolce. Madonna and Child. — 6. Inn. da Imola, and 9. Andrea del Sarto ? Holy Families. — 10. Lodovico Caracci. The Nativity of the Virgin. — 15. A. del Sarto. A small Virgin and Child. — 17. Michael A. Caravaggio. The same subject. — 26. Fra Barto lommeo. A Holy Family. — 28. Teniers. Dutch Boers. — 36. Garofalo. A Holy Family. — 39. Albani. Mercury and Apollo. — 44. Portrait of Julius II., attributed to Raphael. — 45. Pietro da Cortona. The Nativity of the Virgin. — 49. Carlo Dolce. St. Apollonia. — 50. Titian. Portrait of Philip II. of Spain. — 51. C. Cignani. Good group of the Infant Saviour and S. John the Baptist. — 52. C. Sarracini. Vanity, personified by a female arranging her dress, with an old attendant holding a mirror before her. — 53. P. Veronese. Marriage of S. Catherine. — 54. C. Ma ratta. A Holy Family; and 70 the Flight into Egypt. — 61. Vasari. A Sect. I. § 26. r. corsini. 293 Plan op Pictuee Gallery at the Coesini Palace. Holy Family.— 88. C.Dolce; and 89. Guido. Two Ecce Homos, placed, with the same subject (1) by Guercino, near each other, to show the respective powers of expresaion by theae three masters. Room IV. 11. Guido. Hero- dias. — 18. Andrea Sacchi. A small Crucifixion of St. Andrew. — 19. Guido. The Crucifixion of St. Peter.— 20. Guercino. St. John. — 22. F. Baroccio. Our Saviour and the Magdalene. — 27. Lod. Caracci. 2 good colossal heads. — 28. Titian. St. Jerome. — 41. Giulio Romano. A copy of Raphael's Fornarina of the Uffizi Gallery at Florence. — 43. Carlo Maratta. A Holy Family. — 44. Albert Durer. A hare. — 45. Carlo Dolce. A Magdalene. — 51, 52. Albano. Two oval paintings of Venus and Cupids. — 53. Spagnoletto. Deathof Adonis. — 55. Lodovico Caracci. A Deposition. And 11 small subjects by Callot representing scenes in the life of a soldier. An ancient chair (b) in marble, supposed to be Etruscan, discovered near the Lateran ; the low reliefs upon it repreaent »¦ proceaaion of warriors, a boar-hunt, and sacrificial ceremonies. On one of the tables ia an ancient silver vase, covered with reliefs representing Oreatea before the Council of the Areo- pagua. RoomY. 12. Carlo Dolce. St. I -14. Carlo Maratta. An An- 1 nunciation. — 16. Schidone, and 19. Del Rosso. Holy Families. — 23. Al bani. Virgin and Child. — 24. Guer cino. Christ and the Samaritan woman at the well; and 40, id. An Annuncia tion. — 28. Giorgione. Christ and St. Peter. — 30. Parmigianino. A Holy Family. — 37, 38, 39. Guido. An Adolorata, Ecce Homo, and St. John ; and 45. A small Crucifixion. Room VI. All the paintings in this room are portraits. Titian. Two Sona of Charles V. — 31, 35. Solbein. Hia own and his Wife's portraits. — 43. Albert Durer. Portrait of Cardinal Albert of Branden burg. — 40. Bronzino. Portrait of Car dinal Bibiena, very doubtful. — 47. Campiglia. Portrait of Rubens. — 50. Titian. Card. Alessandro Earneae. — 54. Bronzino. Portrait of Lorenzo de' Medicia. — 67. A pretended minia ture of Mary Queen of Scota, attributed to Oliver. — 68. Baciccio. Card. Neri Corsini. Room VII. 11. Mueillo. Fine picture of Viegin and Child. — 13. G. Poussin. Fine Landscape. — 21. Luca Giordano. Christ disputing with the Doctors. — 22, 23, 24. Fra Angelico. 3 small paintings on panel, repre senting the Descent of the Holy Spirit, the Ascension, and our Lord in Glory These three portions formed a trip tych; the miniaturj heada of the aainta 294 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES. — P. CORSINI. Rome. . are fine. — 15. Rubens. St. Sebastian. — 18. Garofalo. Christ bearing the Cross, the head of the Saviour remark able for the resignation and placidity of its expression; — 20, 25. G. Poussin. Good Landscapea. — 26. Lodovico Car acci. Martyrdom of St. Bartholomew. — 27. C. Maratta. An Annunciation. — 28, 34. Orizonte. Two good Land scapea. — 30. Titian. The Woman taken in Adultery. — 35. Domenichino. Portrait of a Gonfaloniere of the Church. — 48. Pomarancio. Charity. On one of the tables here is a re markable large piece of native amber. Room VIII. 2. Franeia. Virgin and Child. — 6. Claude. A good apecimen. ¦ — 8. Vandyke. Jeaua before Pilate. — 10. P. da Caravaggio. A drawing of Niobe and her Children, dated 1567. — 11. Poussin. A Holy Family. — 13. Guido. Contemplation. — 15, 21, 23, 40, 41, 42. G. Poussin. 6 landscapes. — 18. Domenichino. Susannah at the Bath. — 24. Guercino; and 25. Spagno- letto. Two pictures of St. Jerome. — 29. Correggio (?). Christ in the Garden. — Mosaic portraits of Clement XII., and of his nephew Cardinal Neri Corsini. In a cabinet opening out of Room VIII. are some small triptychs attributed to Orgagna, Duccio of Siena, Giottino, Simone Memmi, Stamina, Benozzo Gozzoli, Filippino IAppi, &c, and, No. 10, a fine drawing in crayons of an Ecce Homo by Guido. — 11. A Susanna, by Cos. Roselli ; and 6, Christ and the Samaritan, by Guercino. Room IX. 2. Teniers. Interior of a Dutch Farm-house. — 6. N. Poussin. The Triumph of Ovid — 9. Velasquez. Por trait of Innocent X. — 12. Salvator Rosa. Prometheus devoured by the Vul ture. — 18- Solimena. St. John in the Desert.— 21. C. Maratta. The Trinity. —25, 28, 29, 35. S. Rosa.— Battle- piecea. — 32. Domenichino. Christ laid in the Sepulchre. In a room (X.) be yond this, but generally closed, are — ¦ a bronze baa-relief of the Rape of Europa, attributed to Cellini; an an' tique moaaic representing oxen fright ened by thunder ; and a portrait of Clement XII. in pietra dura. The Corsini Library — entrance from No. 11 in the Lungarar — founded by Clement XII., contains upwards of 1300 MSS., some autographs of Christina of Sweden, and a great number of cinque cento editions. It is open to the public every day, except Wednesdays and festivals, for 3 hours before sunaet. The number of printed booka, rich in editions of the 15th century, is about 60,000, well arranged, with good cata logues, and easily accessible ; the col lection of engravings is one of the finest and most extensive in Italy. The series by Marc Antonio Raimondi after Raphael is the most complete to be met with. Behind the palace are the gardens and the pretty Villa Corsini, placed on the declivity ofthe Janiculum. The view from it embraces a magni ficent panorama of Rome. Palazzo Costaguti, in the Piazza delle Tartarughe, built by C. Lombardi : it is remarkable for ita fine ceilings, painted in fresco by Domenichino, Guercino. Albano, and other eminent artists of their time. There are 6 ceilinga, in the following order: — I. Albano. Her cules wounding the Centaur Nessus. II. Domenichino. Apollo in his car Time discovering Truth, &c. III. Guer cino. Rinaldo and Armida on a cha- riot drawn by dragons. IV. Cav. cV Arpino. Juno nursing Hercules Venus with Cupids and other divini ties. V. Lanfranco. Justice and Peace. VI. Romanelli. Arion saved by the dolphin. Curia Innocenziana, more generally known as the P. di Monte Citorio, from the piazza in which it is situated, an imposing edifice, begun in 1642 by Innocent X. from the designa of Ber nini, and completed by Innocent XII. from thoae of Carlo Fontana. It was appropriated by the latter pontiff as the seat of the higher courts of law, under the name of the Curia Innocen- tiana. It contains on the ground-floor the offices of the Director-General of Police and of Passports ; on the first- floor those of the Auditors of the Ca- Sect. I. § 26. P. DORIA-PAMPHILI. 295 Geound Plan of the Doeia Galleet. mera and Segnatura, and the Civil Court of the First Instance. This palace is supposed to stand on the site of an Amphitheatre of Statilius Taurus. Palazzo Doria-Pamphili, in the Corso. — This immense edifice, the most magnificent perhaps of all the Roman palaces, interesting to English tra vellers from its connexion with our great house of Talbot, was erected at various times and by different architects. The Bide facing the Corso ia from the designs of Valvasori ; that facing the Collegio Romano was designed by Pietro da Cortona, the vestibule being added by Borromini. The Gallery, which ia open on Tuesdays and Fridays, from 10 to 2 [o'clock, contains many first-rate works, with a greater number naturally of a second-rate character. There are upwards of 800 pictures, dis tributed over 18 rooms and galleries, which are most liberally thrown open to the public, with good hand catalogues in each room of its contents. In the order in which strangers visit the gallery, the following are the most remarkable pictures : — Entering from the principal stairs, in the l.-hand corner of the great quadrangle (a), the great Hall (1), a very beautiful apartment lately erected : it is decorated with ancient marbles and pictures, chiefly land scapes, the most worthy of notice being several by Gaspar Poussin, espe cially No. 23 and 19, and a Marina by N. Poussin. Amongst the marbles are 3 sarcophagi with baa-reliefs ; a statue of a bearded Bacchus ; a frag ment of a Chimaera, found in the ruins of Lorium ; a group of Ulysses con cealed under the body of a sheep ; and a portion of the table of a Triclinium with handsome arabeaques, discovered in the ruins of Pompey's Villa at Albano, the site of the modern Villa Doria. Opening out of this Hall, on the 1., are a series of rooms, occu pying 3 sides of the palace. The paintings which cover their walls are in general second-rate ; the following, how ever, may be noticed. Room II. — 5. Gian. Bellini. A Circumcision. — 27. Taddeo Bartolo. A Triptych, with Ma donna and Saints. — 28. Fra Filip po Lippi. The Annunciation. — 33. 296 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES. — P. DORIA-PAMPHILI. Rome. Guercino. The Martyrdom of St. Agnes : the fine group of the Centaur in rosso and nero antico marbles in the centre of tlffe room, discovered in the grounds of the Villa Doria at Albano : the 2 groups of children are by Algardi. In the bedroom (III.), opening on the rt., are, 15, a Holy Family by A. del Sarto, and, 9, a Virgin by Sassoferrato. Room IV. — Some bronzea, amongat which a curi ous water-pail or Situla, with subjects scratched upon it, in the Etruscan style ; a recumbent figure of the Nile in green basalt of the time of Hadrian ; and a bronze bust of Innocent X. by Bernini. RoomV. — 1. Vasari. A Holy Family. — 17. Quentin Matsys. A group of Misers. — 21. Beccafumi. The Mar riage of St. Catherine. The marble group of Jacob and the Angel is by the school of Bernini. Room VI. — 5. Sandro Botticelli. A Holy Family. — 22. Domenichino. A small As sumption. In the adjoining Cabinet (b), opening out of Room VIL, are Beveral small subjects attributed to Breughel. A bust, by Algardi, of Olym- pia Maidalchini Pamfili, and of the pre sent Prince Doria by Tenerani. In the 4 following rooms, VIL, VIIL, IX., and X., there is little to detain the visitor : from the latter he will enter the quadrangular gallery surrounding the 4 sides (a) ofthe Great Court of the palace, in which are placed the best picturea in the collection. Geeat Gal lery, XIII. W. Branch, on the 1. (1° Braccio). — 3. A. Caracci. The Mag dalene. — 4. Pierino del Vaga. Galatea. — 9. Sassoferrato. A Holy Family. — 15, 37. A. del Sarto. Holy Families. — 16. Breughel. The Creation of Animals. — 21. Guercino. The Prodigal Son. — 25. Claude. The Flight into Egypt. —26. Garofalo. The Viaitation of St. Elizabeth.— The 3 Agea of Man by Titian, without a number. — 36. The Flight into Egypt; the landscape by Gaspar, the figures by Nicholas Poussin. — 38. N. Poussin. A copy ofthe Nozze Aldobrandini (see p. 249): the differ- cncea between this-copy and the original fresco arise from reatorationa made on ' the latter and since removed. — 45. Guido. The Virgin in Adoration be fore the Infant Saviour. — 47. Albano. Holy Family and 2 female Saints. — 49. Paolo Veronese. Angel playing on tambourine. — 51. Dosso Dossi. The Expulsion of the Vendors from the Temple.— Titian. The Three Ages of Man. West Branch of Gallery, XIV. (2° Braccio). — 5. Guercino. St. Peter. — 14. Raphael. Portraits of Andrea Navagero and Agostino Brazzano, friends of Card. Bembo, for whom they were painted, generally known as Baldo and Bartolo, amongst the noblest and finest portraits by Raphael. — 17. Titian. A fine Male Portrait. — 21. Vandyke. Portrait of a Widow. — 25,30,60,65. Breughel. The Pour Ele ments ; the animals and plants beauti fully rendered. — 26. Titian. Sacrifice of Isaac. — 37. Rubens. Portrait of his wife ; and 50, of a Friar, called his Confessor. — 53. Leonardo da Vinci. Portrait of Joanna II. of Aragon, Queen of Naples, a lovely picture. — 61. Benvenuto da Ortolano. The Nativity, a good painting of this rare master. — 63. Breughel. The Creation of Eve; and 70. Id. Paradise. — 66. Garofalo. A Holy Family.— 69. Cor- reggio. A cartoon of Glory crown ing Valour. — 76. Teniers. A Village Feast. — 80. Portraits of Titian and Ms wife, attributed to himself. N. Branch of Gallery (33 Braccio)—!, 6, 14, 19, 28, and 34. An. Caracci. A series of good paintings, in the form of lunettes, re presenting the Assumption, the Flight into Egypt, the Nativity, the Adora tion of the Magi, and the Entombment of Our Saviour.— 18. Id. A fine Pieta or Dead Christ.— 5. Claude. Mercury driving away the Cattle of Apollo. — 12. Id. The celebrated Molino, one of Claude's finest landscapes. — 23. Id. The Temple or Sacrifice of Apollo. — 33. Id. The Hunting Diana, a small picture inferior to the 2 last. — 11. The por trait of Machiavelli, attributed to A. del Sarto and Bronzino, with the inscription Nicolaus Maqhiavellus, Sistoriar Scriptor. — 10. Titian. Por trait of his Wife. — 16. Christ on the Sect. I. § 26. P. FARNESE. 297 Cross, attributed, on doubtful grounds, to Michel Angelo. — 21. Garofalo. St. Catherine. — 25. Schidone. St. Roch. — 27. Giorgione. A fine portrait. — 29. Paul Veronese. A pretended portrait of Lucretia Borgia. — 30. Guercino. Endymion. — 31. Fra Bartolommeo. Holy Family. — 35. Dosso Dossi. Por trait of Caterina, called la Venozza, the mother of Casar and Luerezia Borgia. In the Cabinet (c) at the ex tremity of this branch of the gallery have been placed some pictures con nected with the history of the Doria family. — No. 2. A portrait of the cele brated Andrea Doria, aurrounded by naval emblems, attributed to Seb. del Piombo. — 3. Another of Gianetto Doria, by Bronzino. — 5. Innocent X., the founder of the Pamfili family, by Velasquez. The bust of the late Princess Mary Talbot Doria Pamphily is by Tenerani. — 6. The Deposition, with the portraits of the Donatorii, a good specimen of Sans Semeling. The Gallery of the Mirrors, XVI. (G. de' Specchi), which runs parallel to the Corso, ia profuaely decorated with look- ing-glassea and ancient atatuea, none of any great value ; the frescoes on the roof are by the brothers Melani, painters of the last century. Beyond the Great Gallery are a series of rooms, generally closed (XI., XII., &c), communicating with those inhabited by the family, which, as well as the elegant chapel, can only be visited with a permission from Prince Doria. One of these, the Throne Room, contains several works by Poussin, amongst othera his celebrated land scape of the Ponte Lucano ; and beyond the splendid Ball-room, the most magnificent of all those in Rome. The space now covered by the Doria, Si- monetti, and Bonaparte Palaces, and indeed all the side of the Via Lata from the Via di Caravita to the Piazza di Venezia, was formerly occupied by the Septa Julia erected by Agrippa, the Campus Agrippes being on the opposite one. Palazzo Falconieri, in the Via Giulia, built in the 17th century from the designs of Borromini. This palace was formerly celebrated for the gallery of Cardinal Fesch, by whom it was oc cupied for many years prior to his death in 1839. Palazzo Farnese* the property of the deposed King of Naples, by whom it was inherited, as the descendants of Eli zabeth Farnese, the last of her line ; be gun by Paul III., while Cardinal, from the designs of Antonio di Sangallo, it was finished by his nephew, Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, under the direction of Michel Angelo (1526). The facade towards the Tiber, with its Loggia, was added by Giacomo della Porta. The architecture of this palace is beyond all doubt the finest in Rome ; but it loses much of its interest when we know that the blocks of travertine of which it is constructed were taken from the theatre of Marcellus and the Coliaeum, of whose ruin, says Gibbon, " the nephews of Paul III. are the guilty agents, and every traveller who views the Farnese palace may curBe the sa- crilege and luxury of theae upstart princes." The piazza, adorned with 2 handsome fountains, is arranged in such a manner that the palace is seen to great advantage. The granite basina of the fountains, 17 feet in length and 4 feet in depth, were found in the Baths of Caracalla. On entering the palace the size of the blocks of travertine, and the precision with which they are fitted, will not fail to attract attention. Nothing can surpass the solidity of the construction: the basement ofthe court, which was laid down by Vignola on the original plan of Sangallo, and the first story, by Vignola himself, are worthy of the best times of architecture. All the upper part of the building, with the imposing entablature, are by Michel Angelo. The court waa originally aur rounded by two ranges of open porticos, as we have seen at the P. della Cancel leria (p. 287), the lower Doric still open; the upper Ionic has had its arches closed in recent times with brickwork * Open Fridays, 11 to 2— a fee to the custodian. 03 298 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES — P. FARNESE. Ro and windows, which takes much away from the grandeur of this once superb atrium. Above the Ionic portico rises the attic with its Corinthian pilasters, by Michel Angelo. Two sarcophagi are said, but on doubtful authority, to have been found in the tomb of Cecilia Me tella. The form, as well as the rude style of the bas-rehefs of scenes of the chace upon the one, are evidently of a period posterior to the timea of the wife of Crasaua. The other is Chriatian, of the 4th centy. During the siege of Rome in 1849 the palace waa atruck by several shot from the breaching batteries of the French : its cornice and roof were somewhat injured, but no damage was done to the interior. In former times the palace was re markable for ita fine collection of statues, now in the British Museum. The frescoes of An. Caracci and his scholars are the great attraction of the Gallery on the upper floor. These fine works occupied no less than 8 yeara in execution, and were rewarded with the small sum of 500 gold crowna (1201.). The centre-piece represents the Triumph of Bacchus and Ariadne, attended by fauns, satyrs, and bac chantes, and preceded by Silenus on an ass. The other subjects are, — Pan bringing goatskins to Diana ; Mercury presenting the apple to Paris ; Apollo carrying off Hyacinthus ; the Eagle and Ganymede ; Polyphemus playing on the Pipes ; the pursuit of Acis ; Perseus and Andromeda (by Guido) ; contest of Perseus andPhineus; Jupiter and Juno; Galatea, with tritons and nymphs ; Apollo flaying Marayaa ; Boreaa carry ing off Orythia ; recall of Eurydice ; Europa on the Hull; Diana and Endy- mion ; Herculea and Iole ; Aurora and Cephalus in a car ; Anchises and Venus ; Cupid binding a Satyr ; Sala- mucis and Hermaphroditus; Syrinx and Pan ; Leander guided by Cupid swim ming to meet Hero. The 8 small sub jects over the niches and windows are by Domenichino ; they represent Arion on his dolphin ; PrometheuB ; Herculea killing the dragon of the Hesperides ; the deliverance of Prometheus ; the fall of Icarua ; Caliato in the bath ; the same nymph changed into a bear; Apollo receiving the lyre from Mercury. In an apartment not open to the public, called the Gabinetto, are other freacoes by An. Caracci; on the roof is an oil- painting of Herculea between Vice and Virtue, a copy of a picture by this master which has been removed to Naples. The frescoes are, — Herculea supporting the globe ; Anapius and Amphinome saving their parents from an eruption of JEtna; Ulysses and Circe ; Ulyssea passing the island of the Sirens; Perseus and Medusa; Hercules and the Nemaean Lion.* In the wing of the palace looking out on the Piazza are two large halls, one occupying the height of two floors, and upwards of 60 feet in elevation ; it has a heavy oak roof, with deep sunk panels, and was in former timea the anteroom to the atate apartments. In it are preserved a few of the sculpturea of the Farnese collection — aome good ancient archi tectural fragments, and the recumbent statues of Piety and Abundance, by Giacomo della Porta, which once be longed to the tomb of Paul HI. in St. Peter's. The second hall, or of the Guards, has also a heavy panelled roof; the walls are covered with frescoes of sub jects connected with the Farneae family, painted by Vasari, Salviati, and the two Zuccheri. The principal represent the signing of the treaty of peace between Charles V. and Francis I. on one side of the Pope, and on the other the dispute between Luther and the papal nuncio Card. Cajetan (Caetani). The colossal group of Alessandro Farnese crowned by Victory, with the Scheldt and Flanders at his feet, the work of Moschino, was sculptured out of a column taken from the Basilica of Constantine. The Farnesina, in the Lungara of the Trastevere, opposite the Coraini Palace (open on the 1st andl5th of every month from 9 to 12), recently sold by the King of Naples to the Spanish Duca * The frescoes in this palace have been suc cessfully photographed by Cuccioni, and may be procured at his shop, 18, Via Condotti. Sect. I. § 26. P. IARNESINA. 299 di Ripalda, built in 1506, by Agostino Chigi, the great banker of the 16th century, from the designs of Baldas sare Peruzzi. It is celebrated for its frescoes by Raphael and his scholars, Giulio Romano, Francesco Penni, Gio vanni da Udine, and Raffaello del Colle. Several of them were retouched by Carlo Maratta, so that, although we still have the designs of the illustrious master, the original colouring haa been much injured. I. — The large entrance- hall facing the court-yard, originally an open loggia : the painting upon the ceil ing represents the fable of Cupid and Psyche, aa told by Apuleius, almost entirely from the designs of Raphael, but executed for the greater part by his scholars. • Commencing by the penden- tentives upon the wall on the 1., the subjects are — 1. Venus ordering Cupid to punish Psyche for her vanity. 2. Cupid showing Psyche to the three Graces ; the one with her back turned to the spectator is entirely from the hand of Raphael, perhaps the loveliest female figure ever painted. 3. Juno and Cerea interceding with Venua in behalf of Psyche. 4. Venus in her car drawn by doves hastening to claim the inter ference of Jupiter. 5. Venus before Jupiter praying for vengeance against Psyche. 6. Mercury flying to publish the order of Jupiter. 7. Psyche borne by Cupids, with the vase of paint given by Proserpine to appease the anger of Venua. 8. Psyche presenting the vase to Venus. 9. Cupid complaining to Jupiter of the cruelty of his mother, one of the most graceful compositions of the series. 10. Mercury carrying Psyche to Olympus. On the flat part of the vault are 2 large frescoes, one representing the Council of the gods on the appeal of Cupid, before whom Venus and Cupid are pleading their causes ; this painting is by Giulio Ro mano ; and the Banquet of the Gods in Celebration of the Marriage of Cupid, by Francesco Penni. In the lunettes are graceful figures of young Cupids, with the attributea of different divini- tiea who have acknowledged the power of Love. II. Hall of the Galatea. — In the exqniaite composition from which this room derives its name, Galatea is represented in her shell, drawn by dolphins, surrounded by tritons and nymphs, and attended by Cupids sport ing in the air, the whole characterized by a grace and delicacy of feeling which bespeak the masterhand. With the exception of the group of the Tritona, with wreaths on their heads, in the background, it was entirely painted by Raphael* The frescoes of the roof, re presenting Diana in her car drawn by oxen, and the fable of Medusa, are by Baldassure Peruzzi according to Vasari, although stated by others to have been painted by D. da Vol terra. The figures in chiaroscuro and the other ornaments are by the same artist. It ia said that when first painted the effect of those in chiaroscuro waa such that Titian thought they were ornaments in relief, and desired that a ladder might be brought, in order that he might ascertain the fact. The lunettes, painted by Sebastiano del Piombo soon after his arrival in Rome, and Daniele da Volterra, represent Icarus and Daedalus, Dejanira, Her cules, Iris, Phaeton, &c. ; the large figure of Polyphemus is alao by Sebas tiano del Piombo. In one of them is a colossal head, sketched in charcoal by Michel Angelo. As the story runs, the great painter had come to see D. ad Volterra, and, after waiting for some time to no purpose, he adopted this mode of apprising Daniele of hia visit. The landacapes on the walls were painted long subsequently by Gaspar Poussin. The pavement in scagliola, with the vulgar emblazonments on it, and on the walls, of the Bermudez family, as well as the shield in the centre of the vault, have replaced those of the Chigis and Farneses. The paintings in the 3rd hall on the grand floor are by very inferior artists. III. In the upper story are 2 halls : in the first and largest the architectural * These frescoes of Raphael have been re produced in photography by Dovizzielli, 136, Via Babuino, and still better by Mr. Braun of Dornock, near Colmar, in France. 300 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES.— PAL. OF THE INQUISITION. Rome. paintings are by Baldassare Peruzzi; the Forge of Vulcan, over the chimney, and the large frieze repreaenting eub- jecta from the Metamorphosea of Ovid, are attributed to Giulio Romano : in the second room Alexander offering the crown to Roxana, and the Family of Dariua at the feet of Alexander, are by Sodoma. The groups of Cupids in the first, and of young females in the second, are extremely beautiful. Upon the 3rd wall a very inferior painting is interesting as containing a view of the ruins of the Basilica of Constantine as they existed in the 16th centy., showing the fine Corinthian column which was afterwards removed by Paul V. to support the statue of the Virgin in front of the ch. of Santa Maria Maggiore (see p. 128). The Farnesina Palace acquired great celebrity during the reign of Leo X. as the residence of Agostino Chigi. He waa a liberal though an ostentatious patron of litera ture and the arts, whose chief pride was the exhibition of princely magnifi cence, not only as the Mecamas of his time, but as the great Amphitryon of Rome. His entertainment to Leo X., the cardinals, and the ambassadors, in 1518, was the most coatly banquet of modern times. Tizio, who was present on the occasion, tells ua that the price of 3 fish served up at the banquet amounted to 250 crowns ; and it is related that the plate used was thrown into the Tiber, by Chigi's orders, as it was removed from table. The Farnesina is said to have been built purposely for the entertainment, and as a monu ment of his luxury and taste. The palace afterwards became the property of the Farnese princes, and passed, like all their other possessions, to the royal family of Naples, who established in it an Academy of Painting, where a number of pupils were maintained at the expense of the Government of Naples until lately. In the garden are some frescoes in the style of Raphael, and on the outer wall are remains of paintings by Baldassare Peruzzi. The best preserved portion of the Aurelian wall in the Trastevere forms one of the walls of thia garden. Palazzo di Firenze, in the Piazza of the same name, not farfrom the Palazzo Borgheae, rebuilt b$ Vignola about 1560, remarkable only for ita architecture. It ia the property of Tuscany, and waa the residence of its minister to the Holy Palazzo Giraud, in the Piazza Scoa- aacavalli of the Borgo. It, haa an in terest for English travellers as the palace of the representatives of England at the Court of Rome before the Reformation. It was , built in 1506 by Bramante, for Cardinal Adriano da Corneto, who presented it to Henry VIIL, and for some years it was the residence of the English ambassador. It was given by Henry VIII. to Cardinal Cam- peggio, and was subsequently converted into an ecclesiastical college by Innocent XII. On the removal of the college to near the Ponte Sisto, the palace was purchased from the Government by the Marquis Giraud; the principal gateway, quite out of harmony with the rest of the fine facade, was added at a comparatively recent period. A few years since it became the property by purchase of the banker Torlonia. Card. Wolsey resided here during his last visit to Rome. Palazzo Giustiniani, near the ch. of San Luigi dei Francesi, and the post- office, begun by Giovanni Fontana in 1580, and completed by Borromini, formerly celebrated for ita paint ings and sculptures. It is built on a portion of the site of Nero's Baths : its museum was celebrated for ita an- tiquitiea, many of which were found upon the apot. The greater part of these treasures have been dispersed; amongst those remaining are, on the stairs, good statues of Vesta, of Marcus Aurelius, and of Bacchus seated on a panther. There are several bas-reliefs in the walls round the court, which belonged to sepulchral urns, one of which, more remarkable than the rest, represents a Bacchanalian procession, in which are Asiatic elephants, panthers, and what appears to be a giraffe, well delineated, and a chariot drawn by lions. Palace of the Inquisition, a vast Sect. I. § 26. P. MATTEL 301 edifice built by Pius V., near the Porta Cavallegieri, and behind St. Peter's, formerly used as a prison for mem bers of religious communities, or for persons in holy orders. The archives which had been collected in this In stitution for centuries past are said to be of the highest interest, includ ing the details of many important trials, such as those of Galileo and of Giordano Bruno, the correspondence relating to the Reformation in England, and a seriea of Decreea from the year 1549downtoourowntimea. There was also a very extensive library here, which contained copies of the original editions of the works of the Reformers in the 16th and 17th centuries, now become extremely rare. The tribunal of the In quisition was suppressed by the Roman Assembly in February, 1849, but was re-established in June of the same year by Pius IX., in an apartment at the Vatican. The building has been of late years occupied as a barrack by the French troops. The prison, conaisting of three tiera of cells, may be seen by applying to the guard at the gate. Palazzo Lante, near the ch. of St. Eustachio. It contains a few ancient statues, of which the most remarkable is the group placed on the fountain in the court, representing Ino nursing Bacchus. Palazzo Madama, built in 1642 by Catherine de' Medici, from the designs of Paolo Marucelli. It occupies a por tion of the site covered by Nero's Baths. It contains nothing to interest the stranger, and is remarkable only for its architecture. It is now occupied by the offices of the Minister of Finances, and the Post-office. The lottery is drawn in front of it every Saturday. Palazzo Massimo, delle Colonne, near the ch. of S. Andrea della Valle, begun in 1526 from the designs of Baldassare Peruzzi. The fine portico of 6 Doric columns, the double court and ita pretty fountain, may be clasaed among the good examples of modern architecture ; the palace is considered as Baldassare's masterpiece. It is also interesting as the last work he exe cuted. It contains the celebrated Dis cobolus, found on the Esquiline in 1781, near to where the so-called Trophies of Marius stood. This noble statue is supposed to be a copy of the famous one in bronze by Myron, and is one of the finest specimens of ancient sculpture in Rome. The lesser front of the palace, towards the Piazza Navona, has some frescoes in chiaro-acuro by Daniele da Volterra. In a room on the upper floor, now con verted into a chapel (open to the public on the 16th of March), took place the miraculoua reauscitation of one of the Maasimo family by S. Filippo Neri, in 1584. It was in the adjoining Pal. Pirro, so called from the statue of Pyrrhus or Mars, now in the Capitoline Museum, that Pietro de' Massimi, in 1467, established the earliest printing- office in Rome, and where the first worka that iasued from it, the Apuleius, and St. Auguatine's de Civitate Dei, were printed by Sweynheim and Pan- nartz. There is another Pal. Maaaimo, the residence of the ducal branch of this celebrated family, in the Piazza di Ara Coeli, at the N. foot of the Capitol. Palazzo Mattei, built on the site of the Circus of Flaminius by duke Asdrubal Mattei, from the designs of Carlo Maderno (1615). It is a fine building, and still contains some an cient marbles in the court and under the portico of the 1st floor. The gal lery of pictures, once celebrated, has been dispersed aince the extinction of the family in the male line ; of the few worka of art that remain the follow ing are most worthy of notice : — I. The roof of the first room is painted in fresco by Pomarancio. The principal pictures are Charles I. and Charles II. of England, by Vandyke; Sta. Bona ventura, by Tintoretto; 4 landscapes, by Paul Brill. II. The two Seasons, by Paul Brill ; Holy Family, by the school of the Caracci; 4 pictures of 302 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES. — P. ROSPIGLIOSI. Rome. dealers in fish and other eatables, by Passerotti. III. The two Seasons, by Paul Brill, forming the suite to those in the preceding room. IV. The roof painted by Lanfranco. The Sacrifice of Isaac, by Guido. V. The gallery ; the roof painted by Pietro da Cortona. — Lanfranco. The Sacrifice of Isaac. — Tempesta. The Entry of Charles V. into Bologna. — Pietro da Cortona. The Nativity. IV. The roof painted in chiaroscuro, by Domenichino. This palace forms only a portion of what the Pal. Mattei once was ; the present P. Caetani, towards the Via delle Botteghe Sacre, having formed one division of it ; and the Pal. Longhi, from the designs of Vignola, in the Piazza Paganica, another. Palazzo de Montevecchio, in the small Piazza of that name, near the ch. of S. Maria della Pace, in one of the dirtiest quarters of the city. The archi tecture ia attributed on very doubtful grounds to Raphael, although its gene ral style reaembles that of some of the edifices raised from the great painter's designs. It consists of a rustic base ment with three round-headed entrances and two upper stories with handsome windows separated by Ionic pilasters. Close to it in the adjoining Vicolo is a palace in the good Tuscan style. Both these houses will interest the archi tectural visitor. PalazzoMuti-Papazurri,inthe~Pi&zzsi- of the SS. Apostoli, interesting to English travellers from having been the residence for many years of the Pretender Charlea Edward, who died in it in 1788. Palazzo Niccolini, nearly oppoaite Giulio Romano's Cicciaporci Palace, in the Via de' Banchi Nuovi, remarkable for ita fine architecture by Giacomo di Sansovino (1526). Palazzo Odescalchi, or Bracciano, opposite the ch. of the SS. Apostoli, formerly a Chigi palace, built by Car dinal Fabio Chigi from the designs of Bernini, and completed from those of Carlo Maderno: the facade is by Bernini. The collectiona of pictures, statues, and especially of gems, once preserved here, have been sold and dis persed. Palazzo Orsini, formerly the P. Savelli, built in 1526 'by Baldassare Peruzzi on the ruins of the Theatre of Marcellus. It is remarkable chiefly for the vestiges of the ancient theatre which are still traceable beneath and around it. Palazzo Pamfili, in the Piazza Ne - vona, on the 1. of the ch. of S. Agneae, built by Innocent X. from the designs of Girolamo Rainaldi, in 1650. The roof of the gallery was painted by Pietro da Cortona, the frescoes representing the adventures of iEneas : there are alao some by Romanelli and G. Poussin in the different apartments. This palace was the residence of Olimpia Maidal- chini Pamfili, whose adventurous life has been noticed in our description of Viterbo. (Sandbookfor Central Italy.) Palazzo Rospigliosi, on the Quirinal, built in 1603, by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, from the designs of Flamrnio Ponzio, on the site of the Thermae of Constantine. It afterwards belonged to Cardinal Bentivoglio, and was pur chased from him by Cardinal Mazarin, who enlarged it from the deaigna of Carlo Maderno. It was from that time until 1704 the residence of the French ambassadors, and finally pasaed into the Rospigliosi family. The Ca sino,' which alone is shown, and is open to viaitors on Wednesdaya and Saturdays, consista of 3 halla on the garden floor; on the roof of the cen tral one is the Aurora by Guido, one of the moat celebrated frescoes in Rome ; Aurora is represented scattering flowers before the chariot of the sun, drawn by 4 piebald horses ; 7 female figurea, in the most graceful action, surround the chariot, and typify the advance of the Houra. The compoBi- tion is extremely beautiful, and the Sect. I. § 26. P. SCIARRA. 303 colouring brilliant beyond all other ex amples of the master. A large mirror has been so arranged as to enable the visitor to view the fresco with greater facility. The frescoes of the frieze are by Tempesta,the landscapes by Paul Brill. There are some busts round this hall, and a statue of Diana. In the adjoining rooms are — I. Sail on the right. A large and fine picture of Adam and Eve in Paradise after the Fall, by Domenichino ; the Death of Samaon, by Lodovico Caracci; the Head of Guido, by himself; a portrait, by Van dyke; and a bronze horae found in the ruins of the Baths of Titus.- — II. Hall on the left. The Triumph of David, by Domenichino ; 13 pictures of the Sa viour and the 12 Apoatlea, by Rubens, many of them copies ; the Saviour bear ing the Croas, by Daniele da Volterra ; Poussin, hia own portrait; Tobiaa, by Cigoli; a Pieta, by Passignani; bronze busta of Seneca, Septimius Severua, &c. During the siege of Rome in 1849, a 241b. shot (it is preserved with an inscription in one of the rooms) from the French batteries, after pass ing close to the equestrian statues on the Monte Cavallo, struck the roof of one of the lateral pavilions of the Casino, and knocked to pieces some of the woodwork; but no mischief was done to the worka of art. In the garden are several fragments of antique sculp tures, found chiefly among the ruins of the Baths of Constantine, and one of the largest trees in Europe ofthe South American Schinus Molle. The apartments of the palace, inhabited by Prince Rospigliosi and hia brother Prince Pallavicini, contain aeveral good paintinga, and an intereating bust of Scipio Africanus in green basalt, said to have been found at Liternum: they are seldom shown to strangers. The Pal. Rospigliosi stands on the centre of the Thermae of Constantine ; the Casino, with its garden, and the adjoining Pal. della Consulta, on their Frigidarium and the Northern Hemicycle. Palazzo Ruspoli, in the Corso, built by the Rucellai family, from the designs of Bartolommeo Ammanati. The stair case, composed of 115 stepa of white marble, erected by Martino Lunghi for Cardinal Caetani, is considered the finest construction of thia kind in Rome. The ground floor is occupied by the Cafe Nuovo. Palazzo Sacchetti, in the Via Julia (No. 66), built by Antonio di Sangallo for hia own reaidence, early in the 17th century, and completed by NanniBigio. The architecture ia much admired. Only 2 aidea have been completed, thoae to wards the E. and N., which show the beautiful cornice by which the walls are surmounted. At the death of San gallo the palace became the property of Cardinal Ricci, who formed in it a valu able collection of statuea and antiques. The palaceand its antiquities passed suc cessively from the Ricci family to those of Caroli, Acquaviva, and Sacchetti, and ultimately came into the possession of Benedict XIV., who removed the sculptures to the Capitol, where they became the foundation of the present museum. The palace once bore the arms of Paul IIL, and the inscription, Tu mihi quodcumque hoc rerum est, a grateful record of Sangallo's obhgationa to the pope, who firat diacovered his genius, and encouraged it by hia con- atant patronage : both, however, have been wantonly effaced. Farther on in the Via Giulia are some massive sub structions of an edifice commenced by Bramante, as a Palace of the Law Courts for Juliua IL, which haa never been continued. Palazzo Sciarra, in the Piazza Sci arra, built in 1603 by Labacco, with a Doric doorway attributed to Vignolai The gallery is small, but contains some first-rate works of art : it is arranged in 4 rooma on the firat floor, and a. open to the public on Saturdaya, when the family ia resident in the palace.* * During the absence of the family 6 of the best of the paintings have been removed to an apartment on the ground floor, but the numbers given in the text have been preserved, where some indifferent ancient sculptures are also pre served. 304 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES. P. SCIARRA. Rome. Many of the best pictures were formerly in the Barberini collection : — C6 A'AP O a Room I. 2, Cav. Arpino, an Ecce Homo ; 3, P. da Cortona, Santa Bar bara ; 9, Lanfranco, Cleopatra ; 10, a copy of Raphael's Transfiguration, at tributed to Giulio Romano ; 13, Inn. da Imola, Virgin and Child ; 5 and 15, Valentin, two large pictures of the Decollation of St. John the Baptist, and of Rome Triumphant; 16, Garofalo, the Samaritan at the well ; 19, Carlo Dolce, a small Crucifixion ; 20, Titian, a small but very pretty Madonna and Child ; 21, Carlo Maratta, full-length portrait of a Cardinal Barberini. Room II. ia chiefly filled with land scapes. 14, 22, Paul Brill, two good landscapes in his second manner ; 17, 18, Claude, the Flight into Egypt, and a beautiful Sunset ; 26, a large pic ture of a religious ceremony in the Church of II Geau, the figures by A. Sacchi, the arcliitectural portion by Galiardi; 37, 39, Claude (?), two Land scapes in his first manner ; 36, N. Poussin, St. Matthew and the Angel ; Canaletti, a View of the Castel Novo, at Naples ; 4 and 54, Paul Brill, good Landscapes in his first manner. Room III. 5, Baroccio, a Deposition ; 6, Franeia, a Holy Family; 8, Mix. Sir ami, Charity; 9, Garofalo (?), a hunting scene ; 17, Gaudenzio Ferrari, a large allegorical picture, called the Old and New Testament — there is a good group of an angel leading a Franciscan friar to the judgment-scat in the fore ground, below a strange rocky land scape ; 19, P. da Cortona, a small picture of S. Bruno; 23, Garofalo, a small Noli me tangere; 26, Id., La Vestale Claudia; 27, Albano, a Holy Family; 29, Teniers, Dutchpeasantssmoking; 32, C.Maratta, a Holy Family; 33, Giulio Romano, a copy of the Barberini Fornarina ; 36, Lucas von Leyden, Madonna and Angels, Bigned and dated 1504, an ela borately worked small picture; 41, Garofalo, the Adoration of the Magi; and four large indifferent Bassanos. Room IV. 1, Fea Bartolommeo, a lovely group of the Madonna, Child, and St. John ; 5, 7, Guercino, St. John the Evangelist, and St. Mark ; 6, Ra phael, the Player on the Violin, dated 1518; 8, Giorgione, the Execu tioner presenting the Head of St. John to Herodias ; 12, Agostino Caracci, Conjugal Love ; 16, Caravaggio, the Three Gamesters; 17, Leonardo da Vinci, Modesty and Vanity, one of the finest and most characteristic picturea of the maater ; 19, Guido, a Magdalen ; 15, 20, Breughel,two small Landacapea ; 22, a small picture in six compartments, representing events in the life of our Saviour, attributed to Giotto ; 26, Perugino, a good St. Sebastian ; 27, N. Poussin, Martyrdom of St. Erasmus ; 28, Guercino, St. James; 29, Titian, the so-called Bella Donna di Tiziano, one of Titian's finest portraits ; 31, Albert Durer, the Death of the Virgin ; 32, Guido, THE MadDALENA DELLE RadICI. P. De Regis or Silvestri, formerly Farnesino (sometimes called della Li- notta), in the dirty lane called the Via dell' Aquila, leading from the Via de' Baullari to the Palace of the Can celleria, ia a very beautiful specimen Sect. I. § 26. P. SPADA. 305 of the cKmestie architecture of the 16th cent. Little is known of its his tory ; it bears on the frieze the lilies of the Farneses, and has been attributed to Bramante, A. di Sangallo, and B. Pe ruzzi, and even to Michel Angelo, and was once known as the Farnesino of M. Angelo. Its small Doric cortile is very handsome : unfortunately it is sur rounded by mean buildings, and ia in a filthy quarter : it is now in a neglected state. Palazzo Spada (alia Regola), in the Piazza di Capo di Eerro (open on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, from 10 to 3), near the Farnese Palace, begun by Cardinal Capo di Ferro in 1564, from the designs of Giulio Maz- zoni, a pupil of Daniele da Volterra's. It was decorated by Borromini, who has left in the smaller court a specimen of his capricious taste in the fantastic colonnade of Doric columns, erected for the sake of its perspective. The great treasure of this palace ia the Statue of Pompey, which stands in the principal antechamber which pre cedes the picture-gallery, on the 1st floor, a colossal figure holding the globe, found, as we have elsewhere atated, in the Vicolo de' Leutari, near the Can celleria, in 1553. Thia noble figure has been regarded for about 300 years as the identical statue which stood in the Curia of Pompey, and at whose base "great Csesar fell." It is 11 feet high, and of Greek marble. We are told by Suetonius that Augustus removed it from the Curia, and placed it on a marble Janus in front of the basilica. The spot on which it was found corresponds precisely with this lo cality. When it was discovered the head was lying under one house and the body under another: and Elami- nio Vacca tells us that the two pro prietors were on the point of dividing the statue, when Julius III. inter posed, and purchased it for 500 crowns. The disputes and scepticism of anti quaries have led, aa usual, to abundant controversy on its authenticity, but, after having been called Augustus, Alexander the Great, and an unknown emperor, by successive critics, the an cient belief has triumphed, and it is likely to preserve the title of the Spada Pompey long after all its critics have been forgotten. " And thou, dread statue 1 yet existent in The austerest form of naked majesty, Thou who beheldest, 'mid the assassins' din, At thy bathed base the bloody Cfflsar lie, Folding his robe in dying dignity, An offering to thine altar from the queen Of gods and men, great Nemesis I did he die, And thou, too, perish, Pompey ? have ye been Victors of countless kings, or puppets of a scene ? " In a note to this passage of 'Childe Harold,' Lord Broughton examines the evidence on the authenticity of the statue. " The projected division of the Spada Pompey," he says, " has already been recorded by the historian of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. Gibbon found it in the me morials of Flaminio Vacca ; and it may be added to his mention of it, that Pope Julius III. gave the contending ownera 500 crowna for the atatue, and preaented it to Cardinal Capo di Ferro, who had prevented the judgment of Solomon from being executed upon the image. In a more civilized age thia statue was exposed to an actual opera tion ; for the French, who acted the Brutus of Voltaire in the Coliseum, resolved that their Caesar should fall at the base of that Pompey which was sup posed to have been sprinkled with the blood of the original dictator. The nine-foot hero waa therefore removed to the arena of the amphitheatre, and, to facilitate its transport, suffered the temporary amputation of its right arm. The republican tragedians had to plead that the arm was a restoration; but their accusers do not believe that the integrity of the statue would have pro tected it. The love of finding every coincidence has discovered the true Caesarian ichor in a stain on the 1. leg and foot ; but colder criticism has rejected not only the blood,* but the portrait, * Red stains of this description are frequent in statues of Greek marble, and produced by the alteration of a minute quantity of iron pyrites ; not so in those of Carrara or Paros. 306 § 26. PRIVATE PALACES — P. SPADA. Rome. and assigned the globe of power rather to the first of the emperors than to the last of the republican masters of Rome. Winckelmann is loth to allow an heroic statue of a Roman citizen, but the Grimani Agrippa, a contemporary al most, is heroic ; and naked Roman figures were only very rare, not abso lutely forbidden. The face accords much better with the ' hominem in tegrum et castum et gravem,'. than with any of the busta of Augustus, and is too stern for him who was beautiful, says Suetonius, at all periods of his life. The pretended likeness to Alexander the Great cannot be discerned, but the traits resemble the medal of Pompey. The objectionable globe may not have been an ill-applied flattery to him who found Asia Minor the boundary, and left it the centre, of the Roman empire. It seems that Winckelmann has made a mistake in thinking that no proof of the identity of this statue with that which received the bloody sacrifice can be derived from the spot where it was discovered. Flaminius Vacca Baya sotto una cantina, and this cantina ia known to have been in the Vicolo de' Leutari, near the Cancelleria ; a posi tion corresponding exactly to that of the Janus before the basilica of Pom- pey's Theatre, to which Augustus trans ferred the statue after the curia was either burnt or taken down. Part of the Pompeian shade, the portico, ex isted in the beginning of the 15th cen tury, and the atrium was still called Satrum. So says Biondo. At all events, so imposing is the stern majesty of the statue, and so memorable is the story, that the play of the imagination leaves no room for the exercise of the judgment, and the fiction, if a fiction it is, operates on the spectator with an effect not less powerful than truth." During the siege of Rome in 1849 the statue had a wonderful escape from destruction ; several shot from the French batteries struck the walls of the palace, some breaking through the mas sive structure, and two struck the wall ofthe room next to that in which stands the statue without injuring it. Among the other antiques of this palace (in two roomB on the ground-floor), the most remarkable are in the first — the sitting statue of a philoaopher, generaEy believed to be Aristotle, not only from the beat authenticated likenesses, but from the first letters (ARIS) of the name engraved on the base, although some antiquaries will have it that it is Aristides ; and the beautiful bas-rehefs which formed the pavement of St. Ag nese beyond the Porta Pia, where they were discovered in the last century, with the sculptured sides downwards. Their subjects are, — 1. Paris on Mount Ida ; 2. Bellerophon watering Pegasus; 3. Amphion and Zethus ; 4. Ulysses and Diomede robbing the temple of Mi nerva ; 5, Paris and GJnone ; 6. Per seus and Andromeda; 7. Adonis or Meleager ; 8. Adraatua and Hypsipyle finding the body of Archemorua; 9. Pasiphae and Daedalus. The two plaster casts are from the originals in the Mu seum of the Capitol. Three of the 32- pound shot from the French batteries that fell on and near the palace in 1849 are preserved here. The Gallery has a collectionof pictures, the greater number of which are of very doubtful authen ticity, arranged in 4 rooms on the upper floor. Room I. — 10. Sc. Gaetano. Por- traitof JuliusIII. — 32.Lanfranco. Cain and Abel. — 41. Camuccini. Portrait of Cardinal Patrizzi. — 45. Guercino. David. — 56. Luca Giordano. The Sacri fice of Iphigenia. Room II. — 9- Guido. Judith with the head of Holofernes. — 19. N. Poussin. Jacob and his Bro thers. — 17. Leonardo da Vinci. A copy of his Dispute with the Doctors, in our National Gallery. — 8,10. Breughel. The Preaching of St. John. — 2. Titian. Por trait of Cardinal Fal. Spada. — 26. Albano. Bacchantea. — 32, 33. Guercino. St. John the Evangelist, and Santa Lucia. Room III., or Gallery. — 20. Guido. The Rape of Helen. — 24. Titian. Good Portrait of a Cardinal Spada. — 27, 28. Mantegna. Chriat bearing the Cross, with the Almighty above. — 33. Vandyke. A Man playing on the Violoncello. 2. A copy of the St. John in the Borghese Gallery, attributed to Sect. 1. § 27. HISTORICAL HOUSES. 307 Paolo Veronese. — 48. Guercino. The Death of Dido. — 49. M. A. Caravaggio. Goliath. — 71. A Portrait of Balthasare Castiglione. In the room between the Hall of the Pompey and the Picture Gallery are some frescoes by Luzio Romano. Palazzo Torlonia, in the Piazza di Venezia, built by the Bolog- netti family, about 1650, from the designs of Carlo Fontana, and pur chased at the beginning of the present century by Torlonia, the great Roman banker. All its collections were formed by him, and the principal works it contains are the productions of modern artists. The ceilings of the rooms are painted by Camuccini, Pelagi, and Landi : and in a cabinet built for the purpose is Canova 's statue of Hercules hurling Lycas into the sea. Most of the objects of art were bequeathed to the public by the late poaseasor, aa well as the gallery ; but there has hitherto been some difficulty in gaining ad mittance. Palazzo Turd, No. 123, Via del Governo Vecchia, near the ch. of S. M. in Vallicella, is remarkable only for its architecture, said to have been built from the designs of Bramante, for Pietro Turci, one of the Pope's secre tary's, as we are told by the inscription on the facade, in 1500; it is a good spe cimen of the street architecture of the Renaissance, in the style of the Can celleria and Pal. Giraud. Palazzo di Venezia, at the extremity of the Corso, the ancient palace of the republic of Venice. This castellated palace was built in 14-68 by Paul IL, a Venetian, from the designa of Giuliano da Majano. The materials, like thoae of the Farneae Palace, were taken from the Coliaeum. The palace waa sold by Clement VIII. to the republic of Venice. It remained in the possession of the re public until its fall, when it passed to the emperor of Austria. Its battle- mented walls give it the air of a feudal fortress. It is now the residence of the Austrian ambassador. Palazzo Vidoni, originally Coltrolini, and subsequently P. Stoppani, near the ch. of S. Andrea della Valle, interest ing aa the moat important building in Rome designed by Raphael (1515). The upper part is a subsequent addi tion, and harmonises badly with the handsome architecture of the two lower floors. At the foot of the stairs is a statue of Marcus Aureliua. Amongst other objects of interest in this palace are the fragments of the ancient Roman Calendar found in the last century at Palestrina by Cardinal Stoppani, and illustrated by Nibby. The Emperor Charles V. inhabited this palace during Ms visit to Rome. § 27. Historical Houses. The attractions offered to the tra veller by the palaces and the museums of Rome too frequently distract atten tion from the unobtrusive houses which are identified with the memory of great names in the history of the fine arts. The first in interest is the Souse of Raphael, situated in the Via dei Coronari (formerly No. 124), a street near the Ponte di S. An gelo. In this house the great painter resided for many years before he re moved to that built for him by Bra mante in the Piazza Rusticucci, in which he died, and whicli was pulled down to enlarge the Piazza of St. Peter's.* It is the house with which he endowed the chapel in the Pan theon where his ashes still repose. It waa renovated and partly rebuilt in 1705, when Carlo Maratta painted on the facade a portrait of Raphael in * This palace was situated at the end of the Borgo : the only part of it now remaining is one pier, which forms the corner of the Pal. Accorombonl in the Piazza Rusticucci. A sketch of it made by Laffrerio in 1549 shows that it was an elegant building, having 5 win dows in front, with a rustic basement and a handsome pediment and cornice supported by Doric pilasters. 308 § 27. HISTORICAL HOUSES. Rome. chiaro-scuro. This interesting record is almost effaced. In the Vicolo del Merangolo (No. 35), near the ch. of S. Egidio, in the Trastevere, is another houae, suppoaed to have been built and tenanted by Raphael, the site of his re lations with La Fornarina : it is now a low osteria. Beaides these, Raphael had a studio at No. 3 of the Piazza di Sta. Apollonia, where he painted the last and grandest of all hia worka, the Transfiguration ; and another in the Borgo Santangelo, No. 129-134, the latter number being over the door which formed the entrance to his atudio. Souse of Pietro da Cortona. — In the Via Pedacchia, near the Capitol, is the houae built and inhabited by Pietro da Cortona : there is a marble slab with an inscription over the door. His skill and judgment in architecture are shown even on the small scale on which his house is constructed; the windows, the door, the portico, and the little court are of the Doric order, and still exhibit many traces of the peculiar taste of this talented artist. Souse of Bernini, now Silvestrelli, No. 11, Via delle Mercede, was the resi- dence of the artist : in another, bearing the same name and tenanted by his descendants, in the Corso, opposite to the P. Ruspoli, is his semi-colossal statue of Truth under the gateway. Souse of the Zuccheri. — At the northern extremity of the Via Sistina is the house formerly called the Palazzo della Regina di Polonia, in comme moration of Maria Casimira queen of Poland, who resided in it for some years. It is interesting as having been built by Taddeo and Federigo Zucchero for their private residence. The ground- floor was adorned by Federigo with frescoea, representing portraits of his own family, conversazioni, &c. A few yeara ago the palace waa the resi dence of the Prussian consul-general Bartholdi, under whose auspices it became remarkable for a high clasa of freacoes, painted in one of the upper chambers by aome of the most eminent German artists of the day. They are illustrative of the history of Joseph : the Joseph sold by his brethren is by Overbeck; the scene with Potiphar's wife, by PA. Veit; Jacob's Lamentation, and the interpretation of the Dream in prison, by TV. Schadow ; the inter pretation of the king's dream, &e., by Cornelius; the 7 years of plenty, by Ph. Veit; the 7 years of famine, by Overbeck. Souse of Poussin, in the Piazza della Trinita, No. 9, near the Trinita de' Monti. For nearly 40 years thia house was occupied by Nicholas Poussin. Many of the great painter's most in teresting letters are dated from it, and lie died there at an advanced age in 1665. The Pincian is identified with the names of the most celebrated land scape-painters. Opposite the house of Poussin was the Souse of Claude Lor raine ; and that of Salvator Rosa waa not far diatant. Souse of Conrad Sweynheim. — Ad joining the Palazzo Massimo delle Co- lonne is the Palazzo Pirro (seep. 301), in which Conrad Sweynheim and Ar nold Pannartz established the firat printing press at Rome in 1467. They had settled previously at Subiaeo ; but in consequence of a disagreement with the monks they removed to Rome, and established here the second print ing press in Italy. The imprint of their works specifies the locality " in domo Petri de Maximis." The De Oratore of Cicero and the De Civitate Dei of St. Auguatin were printed here in 1468. The house waa restored about 1510 by Baldassare Peruzzi. The house of the great architect D. Fontana was at No. 24 of the Vicolo della Palline, in the Borgo, near the Castle of St. Angelo. All memory of the house where Michel Angelo lived and died, which waa in the parish of the SS. Apostoli, is lost ; but his studio is supposed to have been on the ascent to the Piazza del Campidoglio, the last house on the right, marked by a mas- Sect. I. § 28. COLLEGIO ROMANO. 309 sive doorwayin a good style of archi tecture.* § 28. Colleges and Academies. Collegio della Sapienza, the Univer sity of Rome, founded by Innocent IV. in 1244, as a school for the canon and civil law. It was enlarged in 1295 by Boniface VIIL, who created the theo logical schools ; the philological profes- sorahipa were added in 1310 by Cle ment V. Subsequent pontiffs enlarged the plan by the introduction of scienti fic studies, and endowed the university with the taxes on various articles of excise. The present building was begun by Leo X. from the designs of Michel Angelo, and finished in 1576, under Gregory XIII., by Giacomo della Porta. The oblong court, with its double por tico, supported in the lower tier by Doric and in the upper by Ionic pilas ters, was built by this able architect. The ch. and its spiral cupola are in the most fantastic style of Borromini. The university derives the title of the Sapi enza from the inscription over one of the entrances, Initium Sapiential timor Domini. Its organisation was entirely remodelled by Leo XII. in 1825. It is under the direction of the Cardinal- President of the Congregation of Stu diea, ofthe Cardinal Camerlengo, and of a rector : it has 5 faculties — theology, law, medicine, natural philosophy, and philology. The number of profes- sora is 42, 5 of whom are attached to the college of theology, 7 to the col lege of law, 13 to the college of medi cine, 11 to that of natural philosophy, * It is remarkable that, in a city upon which so much has been written, no work has been published on the residences of the many great men who have lived in It: the only attempt being a series of articles about 20 years ago in the ' Diario di Roma,' by the Advocate Bello, afterwards collected in a small volume (Delle Case abitate in Roma da parecchi Uomini IUustri, 8vo., Roma, 1852), but in which the most remarkable names are omitted, such as Michel Angelo, Bramante, Galileo, Montaigne, Goethe, &c, whilst those of several modern celebrities, never beard of beyond the Alps, are inserted. ¦ and 6 to that of philology. All their lectures are gratuitous, their salaries, about 400 scudi yearly, being paid by the government. The number of stu dents by the last returns amounted to 1094. Attached to the university is a Library, founded by Alexander VIL, and liberaUy increased by Leo XII. It is open dailyfrom 8 tol2,and for 2 hours in the afternoon, with the exception of Thursdays. The Museum contains a very good collection of minerals, recently much increased by the purchase of that of Monsignore Spada, particu larly rich in Russian specimens ; a collection of gems bequeathed by Leo XII. ; an extensive series of geological specimens illustrative of Brocchi's work on the " Suolo di Roma; " a col lection of fossil organic remains from the environs of Rome ; a series of the principal varieties .of marbles and stone used in the ancient monuments of Rome, formed by Signor Belli; a cabinet of zoology and comparative anatomy ; an extensive one of philoso phical inatruments, &c. Attached to the medical faculty is a small Botanic Garden, adjoining the Salviati Palace, in the Trastevere, and to that of natural philoaophy, the Astronomical Observa tory on the summit of the Capitol, directed by Professor Respighi. Collegio Romano, built in 1582 by Gregory XIII., from the designs of B. Ammanati ; it is also called the Universita Gregoriana, and is exclu sively under the management of the Jesuits. The course of instruction em braces the learned languages, theology, rhetoric, and different branches of natural philosophy, astronomy, and mathematics. Number of pupils 1248. Attached to the college are a library ; the muaeum founded by the learned Father Kircher ; and the Obaervatory. The Library — very rich in Bibles and worka on biblical literature — contains several Chinese works on astronomy collected by the Jesuit missionaries, and some editions of the classics with notes by Christina queen of Sweden. It was formerly celebrated for its literary trea- 310 § 28. COLLEGIO ROMANO. Rome. sures, but many of the most valuable works have disappeared. The Kvrche- rian Museum — entrance by a stair leading from the cloister on 2nd floor, the same as aacends to the Obser vatory — contains a very rich collec tion of classical antiquities and other objects, many of which are most interest ing. Gentlemen are admitted on Sun days from 10 to midday, when they will experience every civility and information from its learned Director, Father Ton- giorgi. The cabinet of medals embraces a very complete series of Roman and EtruscaD coins, and the most perfect known of the Roman As. The Etrus can antiquities were long considered unique, but the Gregorian Museum in the Vatican has now thrown this part of the Kircherian collection into the shade. Among the specimens of Etrus can workmanship are chains, bracelets, necklaces, and curious ornaments. The Roman bronzea are numerous, all kinds of vases for domestic uses, balances, mirrors, and some vessels in a peculiar yellow metal, an alloy of copper with about 4 per cent, of tin, remarkable for the little alteration it has under gone. Amongst the very interesting objects is the celebrated Cista Mistica, a cylindrical bronze vase and cover, a prize-box given to gladiators, and by them used for containing all the requisites for their toilette before enter ing the arena : it is supported upon 3 elaborately-worked eagle's claws press ing on as many toads, and covered with engravings, representing on one side a gladiator landing from a boat with the cista in his hand, and on the other Amyous vanquiahed, attached to a tree by Pollux, and surrounded by the Argonauts; thia curioua apecimen of an cient art, diacovered near Praeneste, haia been illustrated bythe late Padre Marchi in hia ' Descrizzione della Cista Mistica trovata a. Palestrina.' Another is a fine bronze seat discovered near Osimo : the bars of the feet are beautifully inlaid with silver tracings, and with very chaste figures of the heads of a swan, of an asa, and of a Silenua on the arms. The bronze sculptures and terra cottas are also interesting : amongst the former a beautiful statue of Bacchus; a head of Vesta cut out of a mass of copper ore or pyrites, which resembles bronze in its colour, perhaps unique, the material being one of the hardest and most difficult to work of all those employed in ancient sculpture ; a series of the so-called Phoenician bronze figures found in the island of Sar dinia; a very important collection of Roman weights andmeaaures — amongst the former some standard ones, having marked upon them the weight, and the inscription of templi opis auo, in relief characters of ailver, such stan dards were preserved in that temple ; and an unique collection of Missilia, or Glandes Missiles, in lead, as thrown from slings, several bearing inscrip tions or messages between the be siegers and besieged. Some found at Perugia are very curious, and date from the siege of that town by Au gustus ; in one, the besiegers tell their adversaries that they are aware they are reduced to the last straits, ESATEIS ET ME CELAS, one of the replies to which ia in terms of gross disrespect to Octavian. Among the additions to the Kircherian Mu seum are a series of silver vases, some of great beauty from their ex quisite ornaments, discovered at Vicar- ello, the ancient Aquae Aureliae, on the Lake of Bracciano ; 3 of these vasea have engraved upon them itinerariea from Cadiz to Rome, giving the name of the several stations and the dis tances between each, forming important documents for the ancient geography of this portion of the Roman world. They date from the times of Augustus, Vespasian, and Nerva, as those of the two last reigns contain stations established in the interval, and not enumerated in the list of those of Augustus ; these vases are supposed to have been thrown into the mineral springs, where they were discovered, by inhabitants of Gades, who, having been cured of their infirmities at these baths, offered them to the divinity that presided over the waters. Round the Sect. I. § 28. COLLEGIO ROMANO. 311 walls are hfmg several mosaics (one of guinea-fowl is interesting). In the anteroom, which opens out of the cloister into the Museum, are numerous Roman cippi and inscriptions. Among the other curiosities preserved here is the sword of the Constable de Bourbon, of Eastern manufacture, bearing hia name on the blade and those of 2 Italian generals to whom it had previously be longed ; a large beam, with its nails, of the supposed shipof Tiberius, discovered at the bottom of the lake of Nemi; and in the long gallery several ancient marbles and frescoes, most of the latter ruined by restorations. At the extremity of this gallery opens a room entirely de dicated to early Christian antiquities: round the walls are placed a series of inscriptiona, and aepulchral bas-reliefa from the Catacomba and the churchea which stood over the latter; in glasa cases are several small lamps in terra cotta, with Christian emblems, — one having a relief of Constantine, with the Cross on his helmet and shield, is worthy of notice ; two handsome tazze in agate, found on graves in the Cata combs ; several glass vessels, bronze figures, and early Christian sculptures in ivory; a figure of our Saviour in silver and enamel, from the church of Sta. Maria in Trastevere, and supposed to date from the 5th centy., the oldest specimen of thia kind of work yet disco vered. Over the door are some ancient inscriptions to Jews, chiefly in Greek ; one to two persons called Barzaharona, and another to a certain Faustina ; both have the 7-branch candlestick and the HebrewwordShalombeneath: theywere found near the Ripagrande, and on the Via Appia. In another part of the Mu seum is a very curious Grqffite, or scratching on the stucco of a wall, re presenting an ass attached to a cross, with two men alongside, and the inscrip tion below — A\e|o/tej/os tre/Be-rc Seov (Alexomenos adoring his God) — a cari cature ofthe early Christian adoration of our Saviour'B suffering ; it was found on the walls ofthe Palace ofthe Caesars (see note at p. 33). In fact, Alexomenos, a Christian, is representedin the caricature in an act of adoration of the Saviour hanging on the cross, and this graffito is the earliest representation of the Cruci fixion. The inscription bears testimony to the important fact that our Lord was worshipped by the primitive Christians as God. In a long gallery, forming another side of the quadrangle, ia de posited the Collection of Natural His tory formed by Father Kircher ; it is in great confusion as to arrangement, but contains many interesting apecimena, eapecially of fossil organic remains of the country about Rome. In the cloister opposite the entrance to the Museum is a large mosaic discovered on the Aventine, representing scenes and animals of the Nile, &e. [Ladies are only admitted to this museum by a special permiasion from the Pope, which it ia very difficult to obtain, in consequence of its being in the interior of a convent.] The Observatory of the Collegio Romano is one of the most important of the recent additions to this seat of learning, and at thia time the moat complete establishment of the kind in Italy; formerly placed in a rickety tower at the S.E. quadrangle of the convent, it now stands on two of the immenae aolid piera raiaed by Cardinal Ludoviai to support the never-com pleted cupola of his church of S. Ig- nacio. Besides the instruments for cur rent astronomical researches, such as the transit instrument, mural circle, &c, it possesses a magnificent equatorial by Merz of Munich, a donation from a member ofthe order, aided by Pius IX., who has contributed most liberally from his private funds to the flourishing state of the Observatory. The ap paratus for registering the atmospheric pressure, invented by the preaent di rector, will intereat our acientific coun trymen. Attached to the eatablishment is a good Astronomical Library and a Magnetic Observatory well supplied with English instrumenta. The viaitor will always experience every attention from the able director, Father Secchi, a Fellow of the Royal Society of London, 312 § 28. COLLEGIO DI PROPAGANDA FIDE. Ro and of many of our British scientific bodies, in visiting the Observatory, which he has made one of the most efficient and really useful working esta blishments of the kind on the conti nent of Europe. Ordinary visitors are admitted (not ladies) every Sunday from 10 to 12 o'clock A.M., on apply ing for permission from the director; and scientific men on the week-days before midday, by writing beforehand to Professor Secchi. The Collegio di Propagandd Fide, in the Piazza di Spagna. The College of the Propaganda was founded in 1622 by Gregory XV., for the purpose of educating as missionaries young foreigners from infidel or heretical countries, who might afterwards return and spread the Roman Catholic faith among their countrymen. The present building was erected by Urban VIII. from the designs of Bernini, and com pleted under the direction of Borromini. It contains a library of upwards of 30,000 volumes, chiefly of works on divinity and canon law; annexed to which is the Museo Borgia, bequeathed to the institution by the Cardinal of that name, who was prefect of the Pro paganda in the last century. This Museum is chiefly interesting for its collection of Oriental MSS. ; for the cele brated Codex Mexicanus, published in Lord Kingsborough's magnificent work; for an illuminated Church Service on vellum, of the time of Alexander VI., with the portrait of that notorious Pope; for a second Church Service, prepared on the occaaion of the coro nation of Charles V. at Bologna by Clement VIL, containing a painting of the ceremony, and portraits of several ofthe personages present at it ; and for a precious relic of Raphael — a letter to his uncle Simone di Ciarla, written from Florence on the 21st April, 1507, in a bold hand, and signed "Vostro Raphaello, Depintore di Fio- renze" — it has been published in Bot- tari's edit, of Vasari, of 1792. There are several curiosities sent by the mis sionaries from different parts of the world. The Museo Borgia can only be seen on application to the Rector of the College, or to the Secretary of the Propaganda. The celebrated printing- office of the Propaganda is rich in Oriental types, and has produced many works of great typographical beauty. There is a shop in the Via di Propaganda where all the worka pub lished by the institution can be seen and procured. The annual examina tion of the pupils, which takes place in January, is an interesting acene, which few travellera who are then in Rome omit to attend; the pupila reciting poetry and speeches in their several lan guages, accompanied also by music, as performed in their respective countries ; the number of pupils was, by the last returna, 226. In front of the college has been erected a column of cippolino marble, of the Corinthian order, surmounted by a bronze statue of the Virgin, by Obicci, which, as a work of art, does little honour to the modern Roman school of sculpture, in commemoration of the publication by Pius IX., in 1854, ofthe Bull establishing the dogma of the Im maculate Conception. Round the base are statues of David by Tadolini, Moses by Revelli, and Ezekiel by Chelli, with indifferent bas-rehefs : that looking to wards the College, of the ceremony in St. Peter's on the occasion, contains several cotemporary portraits of Car dinals, &c, but as a work of art the whole monument is a very poor affair. The fine shaft of cippolino is sadly spoiled by the fantastic bronze network extending up two-fifths of its height. The English, Irish, and Scottish Col leges are noticed under the description of the Churches attached to them — S. Tommaso degli Inglesi (p. 200), S. Agata dei Goti (p. 139), and S. Andrea dei Scozzeai (p. 145). The American Col lege, recently established for the educa tion of ecclesiastics from the United States, occupies the spacious Convent of rUmilta, near the Piazza of the Sant' Apostoli, which was bestowed on it by Pius IX. : it is supported by con tributions from the United States, and Sect. I. § 28. ACADEMY OF ST. LUKE. 313 by the fros of its inmates, now 50 in number. There is another American college, for natives of the Spanish American States, in the Piazza della Minerva (46 pupils in 1864). In addition to the above are the 3 semi- naries (Romano, Pio, and Vaticano), for the education of Italian clergy, con taining at preaent upwards of 200 pu pils, and that of San Luigi, for natives of France. The Academy of St. Luke, No. 44, Via Bonella, near the Forum. — The Roman Academy of the Fine Arts was founded in 1588 by Sixtus V., who endowed the confraternity of painters with the ch. adjoining, formerly dedicated to St. Martina. The academy is com posed of painters, sculptors, and archi tects, who direct the several schools. The collection of pictures, which haa been much enlarged, contains several very fine specimens, amongst others all those which formed the Secret Cabinet at the Capitol, and which, from a feeling of false delicacy, were there shut up from public view. The paintings are arranged in one long hall, into which two smaller ones open : we have annexed a plan showing the places of the principal pictures ; a cata logue is sold by the custode : — n' II. ROOM op P 0 li T R A I T S. NEW GALLERY. 4' 4 2 1 i — raT" a. Entrance to Gallery from intercom. I | 1. Poussin T*flccim3 & Ariadne. I TE" I 2. v^....{^-,ra'""d boom. S. Titian St. Jerome. I I ¦"-"¦• 4,5. Vtrrtet MfE'-enas. !| } HALL V. Albani Holy Fnrnily. «» _s.j 1 3 7. p. v«™aJv.,ST BACCHUS AND S. Harlow Cardinal Wolsey. I _ l 1? t a II W V 9. OZoucfe Seaport I ' A ±1 L A 1/ JJI &, 10. Cav. Arpino.. Andromeda. 11. Raphael Fresco of Child. 13. Titian Calista and Nymphs. I] GUIDO. 14. Guercino Venus and Cupid. IB. Guido Cagnaed Lncretia. 36. Guido Fortune. -if, „ i t fSt. Luke painting the 17. Ba$haa....{ Madonna and Child. „ 18. Schnelt Cain. ' " ¦-¦"-"'¦ PLAN OF GALLERY OF ACCADEM1A DI S. LUCA AT EOME. [Rome.] v 314 § 28. ACADEMIES, ETC. Rome. I. Large Sail, or New Gallery. — 11. Poussin, Bacchus and Ariadne; 13. Vandyke, Virgin, Child, and 2 An gela; 18. Titian, St. Jerome, a sketch for a large picture ; 22 and 35. Joseph Vernet, two aea-pieces ; 40. Paolo Ve ronese, Vanity, personified by a lady looking at herself in a mirror ; 49. Titian, Vanity, a recumbent naked figure; 43. Vandyke, a female portrait, called erroneously Queen Elizabeth; 45. Sarlow, Wolsey receiving the car dinal's hat from the hands of Cardinal Campeggi in Canterbury Cathedral; 54. Claude, a beautiful picture of a seaport ; Cav. Arpino, Andromeda, a very pretty small picture ; 6. S. Sem- ling, the Virgin and Child. II. Room of Portraits of Members of the Academy, mostly modern; that of T. Zuchero by himself is an exception. Amongst other academicians figure (236) the father of the present "King of Spain, and (238) the late Duke of Sus sex in a Highland costume, the 2 veri est daubs in the collection ; Velasquez, Portrait of Innocent XL ; an excellent Portrait of John Gibson, the celebrated British sculptor, by hia talented friend Penry Williams. III. Salone di Raffaelle. — Guido' 's picture of Bacchua and Ariadne. 28. Veronese, Suaanna. 29. Titian, Caliata and Nymphs : thia picture, which be longed to the Ossuna family, being pur chased in England by Signor Pellegrini, waa given by him to the Academy ; it is a fine, but not very delicate picture to look on. 22. Guercino, Venua and Cupid, painted originally in fresco and tranaferred to canvaa. 25. Guido Ca- gnacci, Tarquin and Lucretia, one of the beat productions of the master; this was one of the pictures most screened from public view in the Secret Cabinet. 6. Galatea, by Raphael, copied by G. Romano. 27. Gizmo's celebrated Fortune. 15. Raphael, St. Luke painting the portrait ofthe Virgin and Child, on panel ; a fine fragment. There is reason to believe that only a portion of this picture, the Madonna and infant Christ, is by Raphael. 26. Raphael, a freaco of a Child, a lovely composition. It formerly was one of the supporters of an armorial shield of Julius II. in a hall of the Vatican, 13. Titian, the Saviour and the Pha risee. 12. Baroccio, St. Bartholomew and St. Andrew. 32. Palma Vecchio, Lot and Children, and Samson and Delilah. 33. Palma Giovane, 3 Graces, and David with Bathsheba. 41. Titian, his sketch for the picture of Paul III. and hia 2 nephews, now in the Gallery at Naples. In one of the presses in this room is Bhut up the skull which for so long a time passed as that of Raphael, until the real one was found on opening his grave in the Pantheon (see p. 44). The skull in question is now considered to be that of Raphaele Adjutorio, who founded a religious confraternity of paintera in the same church. In a suite of apartments under the gallery are preaerved the picturea and drawings which have received the aca demical prizes of late years, some casts of the works of Canova, Thorwald- sen, &c, and a aeries of those of the Egina marbles presented by the King of Bavaria to Pius IX. The galleries of the Academy of St. Luke are open every day, on giving a small fee to the cuatode. Accademia Archeologica includes among its members some of the most learned archaeologists of Europe. It has published several volumes of trans actions ; it holds its meetings monthly (on Thursdays), in one of the halls of the University of the Sapienza. Accademia degli Arcadi. — Few ofthe Italian societies are so celebrated as the Arcadian Academy of Rome, founded in 1690 by Gravina and Crescimbeni. Its laws, says Mr. Spalding, " were drawn out in 10 tables, in a style imi tating the ancient Roman. The con stitution was declared republican ; the first magistrate was styled cuatos ; the membera were called ahepherds ; it was solemnly enacted that their number Sect. I. § 28. ACADEMIES, ETC. 315 should not exceed the number of farms in Arcadia ; each person on hia admis sion took a pastoral name, and had an Arcadian name assigned to him; the buaineaa of the meetings waa to be con ducted wholly in the allegorical lan guage, and the speechea and verses as much so as possible. The aim of the academy was to rescue literary taste from the prevalent corruptions of the time : the purpose, the whim, and the celebrity of some among the originators made it instantly fashionable ; and in a few years it numbered about 2000 members, propagating itself by colonies all over Italy. The association com pletely failed in its proposed design, but its farce was played with all gravity during the 1 8th century ; and besidea Italians, acarcely any distinguiahed foreigner could eacape from the City of the Seven Hilla without having entered ita ranks. In 1788 Goethe_ was en rolled as an Arcadian, by the title of Megalio Melpomenio; and received, under the academic seal, a grant of the lands entitled the Melpomenean Fields, sacred to the Tragic Muse. The Ar cadia has survived all the changes of Italy ; it still holds its meetings in Rome, listens to pastoral sonnets, and christens Italian clergymen, English squires, and German counsellors of state by the names of the heathens. It publishes, moreover, a regular jour nal, the Giornale Arcadico ; which, although it was a favourite object of ridi cule with the men of letters in other provinces, condescends to follow slowly the progress of knowledge, and often furnishes foreigners with interesting information, not only literary but scientific." Accademia de' Lincei, the earliest scientific society in Italy, founded in 1603 by Prince Federigo Cesi and other contemporary philosophera, amongst others Galileo. It derives its name from its device, the lynx, emblematical of watchfulness. It was re-organized in 1849 by Pius IX., and is still devoted to the physico-mathematical and natu ral sciences. The meetings are held at 1 o'clock on the first Sunday of every month, in the upper rooms of the Palace of the Senator at the Capitol. Pro fessor Volpicelli, a volumninous writer on Physica, is the Secretary. It pub lishes regularly its transactions. Accademia Tiberina, founded in 1812 for the promotion of historical studies, especially those relating to Rome — the physical sciencea ; and themeetings take place on Sundays in the Palazzo Sa bina, in the Via delle Muratte, near the Piazza Scirra. Accademia Filarmonica, an insti tution of recent date, whose ooncerts afford proof of the taste for music a- mong the educated classes of Rome. The academy is under the direction of a president and council, and holds its assemblies in one of the Roman palaces, where concerta are given during Advent and Lent when the theatres are closed, and sometimes in one of the theatres. These assemblies are often very bril liant, the seats in the pit being the most fashionable ; those in front being reserved for the ladies of the Roman aristrocracy. Foreign visitors will be able to procure admission on applica tion to the president, or to the members of the Academy. Archaeological Institute (Instituto Archeologico), founded some years since under the auspices of the king of Prussia, who contributes most liberally, indeed almoat entirely, to its support. Many eminent German scholars have de livered lectures at the Institute, and Bunsen, Gerhard, Lepsius, and Braun have contributed largely to the Transac tions it has published — a most interest ing collection on Archaeological Science. The meetings are held weekly, generally on Fridays at 3 P.M., and to which strangers are freely admitted, in the apartments of the Institute on the Monte Caprino behind the Capitol, when papers are read on archaeological subjects. Dr. Henzel is the present learned and talented secretary of the society. The Giornale of the Society js, by far the most useful of all the pubs p 2 ' f " 316 § 29. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Rome. lications on antiquarian subjects in Rome, and the best record of the dis coveries that are making daily in and around the Eternal City. British Archaiological Society. — This society is almost exclusively formed of our countrymen and citizens of the United States, its objects being to study and convey to visitors infor mation on the antiquities in and about Rome : annual subscription for mem bers 25 lire, for associates 5. During the winter and spring frequent excur sions are arranged under the guidance of some distinguished archseologist, either British or Roman, and lecturea given in their Hall of Meeting on the Palazzo Polo. Mr. J. H. Parker, author of many worka on Britiah Eccleaiastical Architecture, is one of its most active members. This society merits the support and encouragement of British and American visitors to the Eternal City. The Academies of France and Flo rence are establishments where a number of young artists, selected from their respective countries, are educated at the expense of their go vernments for a certain period. The Academy of France is lodged in the Villa Medici, on the Pincian ; that of Florence in the Palazzo di Firenze, which has been converted by the Government into the Ministry of Grace and Justice. A most useful educational establish ment for boys of foreigners is the Ecole des Frires de In Doctrine Chretienne, in the Palazzo Poli, under the protection and partial support of the French Go vernment ; the sanction of the French Ambassador being necessary for ad- miaaion. Roman boya are excluded ; not so Italian from parts of Italy be yond the Roman States. The educa tion is excellent, embracing ancient and modern languages, drawing, music, &c. There are indoor pupils at 54 francs a month, and outdoor at one half, not in cluding extra charges for stationery, &c. ( Fournitures Classiques). The present Dn-ector, Frere Simeon, is an excellent master. There is a large Palseonto- logical collection made by a former Under Director, Frere Dindes. The institution is well known to the Editor of this Handbook : it is admirably managed in every respect ; no inter ference with the religious tenets of the pupils. Flementary Fducation. — In addition to the Parochial Schools, in which there are about 2000 boys and 2495 girls, there are many other establishments for primary gratuitous education, admit ting 9632 males and 8888 females, and private paying educational estabhsh ments, with 6571 boys and girls ; or in all 25,091. § 29. Hospitals and Charitable Institutions. Pew cities in Europe are so distin guished for their institutions of public charity as Rome, and in none are the hospitals more magnificently lodged, or endowed with more princely liberality. The annual endowment of these esta bhshments is no less than 258,390 scudi, derived from lands and houses, from grants, and from the Papal trea sury.* Formerly administered by * According to the Returns published by Monsiguore now Cardinal Morrichini ill 1842, — Scudi. Scudi. The total amount expended in charities in Rome, including hospitals, poor-houses, ele mentary schools, marriage portions for girls, orphans, &c, was 780,700 Of which, from private re venues and contributions . 349,846 By the general treasury . . 430,854 The annual receipts of the 8 hospitals at the same period were, from property and pri vate endowments . . . 156,770 Contributed by the general treasury 102,620 258,390 The poor-houses of S. Michele, with 530 inmates. . . . 60,000 > ' Ditto of Sta. Maria degli An- geli, 950 inmates. . . . 43,20P Of which 39,000 sc. were 83,200 contributed by the trea sury. 13 Sect. I. § 29. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 317 separate confraternities, the hospitals were placed by the French Govern ment under one general board, as in Paris, from which the best results were obtained. Under the rule of the King of Italy, they have been com mitted to the enlightened management of Dr. Pantaleoni. In ordinary times the hospitals can receive about 4000 patients. Formerly ill-administered and badly managed in their domestic ar rangements, considerable improvements have been introduced of late years, espe cially Bince 1849, from diminishing the interference of the clergy and friars, and limiting it to its purely spiritual duties. One of the great ameliorations as re gards the interior economy of the hos pitals dates from the introduction, by the late Princess Doria, of those admirable women, the Sisters of Charity, whose Bervices have brought about a complete revolution in what may be called the domestic management. It is to France, under the direction of the benevolent lady above-mentioned, that the poor of the Eternal City are indebted for this amelioration, and which, however strange it may appear, met with great opposition at first from the ecclesiasti cal element in the management of these useful institutions. Notwithstanding, however, their great wealth, the Roman hospitals are still behind those of Flo rence and of Milan, and it is a remark- Scudi. Scudi. 13 institutions for distributing 970 marriage portions . . . . 35,356 14 Conservatories for the edu cation of 597 female orphans, from private sources . . . 23,570 By the general treasury . 28,620 52,190 Charity distributed a domicilio from the Pope and private charities 46,392 Contributed by the Govern ment 160,000 206,392 Contributed by the Govern ment by employing the poor in public works 52,000 Percentage on the receipts of the lottery for alms 29,376 The number of children receiving education n the Scuole infantile (5136), Scuole regionarie 592), Scuole regolare (4030), and the Scuole nochiale (1100), was 11,758. able circumstance that, with such a wide field for pathological investigation, the Roman medical school is by far the least advanced in Italy, behind those of the secondary provincal towns of Tuscany and Lombardy, a better proof of which cannot be adduced than that in the present century Rome has not produced an eminent medical man from its own school, and that there is not a single medical periodical published in this great centre of disease and suffering, and, what may appear still more atrange to our medical readera, not a medical society of anv description in the capital of the Christian world, with its 180,000 inhabitanta. In general the hoapitals are clean and well ventilated, owing to the large wards, which in the climate of Rome can be adopted. In the larger establishments the wards generally converge towards a centre, where the altar stands under a dome, a form also contributing to good ventilation. This system of large wards also renders the general service easier and more econo - mical. The principal hospitals of Rome are — • The great one of Santo Spirito, on the right bank of the Tiber, near St. Peter's. Founded at the end of the 12th centy. by Innocent III., on the site of a more ancient charity, founded in the 8th centy. by Ina, King of the West Anglians, it has gone on increasing, so as now to form almost a small town within itself : it is so richly endowed that it has acquired the title of il phi gran Signore di Roma, possessing large property in the city, and a considerable extent ofthe country which the traveller passes over between Rome and Civita Vecchia. Its finances are said to have been ill-managed, being under the direction of an ecclesiastical administration. At present its net revenues for sick and foundlings alone amount to 959,500 lire. Santo Spirito consists of an hospital properly speaking for ihe sick, of the male sex only, of a clinical ward, of a founding hospital, and a lunatic asylum for both sexes. The hospital contains in ordinary times about 350 medical and surgical cases 318 §29. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Rome. (in 1865, 8007 patients, of whom 861 died), and 430 lunatics ; but on extra ordinary occasions, as on the outbreak of an epidemic, or when ague sets in during the summer months amongst the labouring population of the Cam pagna, the accommodation is scarcely sufficient. All diseases are admitted, and the number of patients annually is 8000 ; the deaths averaging 9^ per cent. This small amount of mortality may be attributed to the circumstance that a large proportion ofthe admissions are cases ofthe ordinary intermittent fever, which seldom proves fatal in the outset, and which is soon relieved by an early administration of quinine. Attached to the hospital is a clinical ward. There is also a Pathological Museum, and a library, a great part of the books and instruments in which were bequeathed by the eminent physician Lancisi. The Foundling Hospital in S. Spirito, called the Pia Casa degli Esposti, contains upwards of 3000 children ; the number annually received 1150. In 1865, the last date for which we have seen returns, embracing a period of 10 years, out of 11,425 received in the hospital, 9260 died. It must be observed that a great proportion of the foundlings are sent out to nurse in the country. In addition to this hospital, there are others in Rome, which swell the number of fouudlings : they offer such facilities for admission, that children are brought here from all parts of the Papal States, and from the neighbouring provinces of the late kingdom of Naples. The Lunatic Asylum — Ospedale di Santa Maria della Pieta de Poveri Pazzi — contains about 620 inmates. Owing to the confined nature of the locality, to the want of gardens and large courts, the hospital is a real prison ; whilst the neighbourhood ofthe river engenders bad air — the situa tion in every way unfit for its object.* * This evil is now remedied by the ad- Junction of large gardens on the hill above, reached by a covered way from the hospital, and by the wards being considerably enlarged and constructed on an improved system, but the great drawback is still the non-employment of the unhappy inmates. Much has beeu done to improve this hospital, from the munificence of Pius IX, and by the constructions executed at his charge by the architect Azurri. The wards are very cleanly kept, and the poor inmates well attended to, especially in the female division, since the introduction of the Sisters of Charity. One of the most frequent predisposing causes of mental aliena tion met with here arises from reli gious exaltation ; the relative propor tion of ecclesiastics and nuns to the other inmates is therefore considerable. The other hospitals in Eome are the Saniissimo Salvatore, near S. Giovanni di Laterano, for sick and aged females, with a clinical ward also, fouuded in 1219, soon after Santo Spirito, by Car dinal Colonna; it can admit 5 60 patients the number, however, rarely exceeds half this number— in 1865, 2230 pati ents, of whom 400 died. The mortality is here greater than in any other hospital in Rome, being upwards of 1 7 per cent. on the inmates, owing to the insalubri ous situation in which it is placed, and to its admitting many old people affected with chronic diseases. A clinical ward and an obstetrical school has been lately added to this hospital. — San Gia- ' como in Augusta, in the Corso, a surgi cal and Lock hospital for both sexes, with about 450 beds ; in 1865, 2002 patients, of whom 192 died; the annual admissions about 2000 ; this hospital has been lately enlarged. — La Consola- zione, or Santa Maria in Portico, on the S.E. declivity of the Capitoline Hill, receives patients of both sexes for sur gical diseases, and especially operations and accidents. The average number of patients is about 40; in 1865, 815 patients, of whom 58 died. From being situated near the populous quarters of the Monti and Trastevere, most of the cases of stabbing are taken to it. The wards are clean and airy, and the situa tion healthy, which will account in some measure for the low annual rate of mortality — 7J per cent. — San Giovanni di Calabita, or dei Benfratetti, in the island of the Tiber, and, curiously enough, on the site of an hospital at tached in ancient times to the temple of Esculapius : its more recent name of Fate bene, FrateUi, "Do good, brethren," has been derived from the inscription on the begging-box of the friars of the order of the Spanish San Juan de Sect. I. § 29. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 319 Dios de Calabita, by whom it was founded in 1 538 : it only receives male patients affected with acute diseases. It has 74 beds, but the average number of patients does not exceed 40 ; the mortality 7i per cent. This hospital may be considered as a private in stitution, being supported by con tributions, and independent of the General Administration of the Roman hospitals. It is a model establishment in every respect. One of its wards, containing 20 beds, called the Sala Amici, has been fitted up with every comfort — from a legacy bequeathed by a person whose name it bears — under the superintendence of the architect Azurri, into which patients are ad mitted on paying a moderate daily re tribution. — San Gallicano, in the Tras tevere, for diseases of the skin and for persons of both sexes. Average num ber of patients 100; iu 1865, 668 patients, of whom 1 7 died. The build ing, founded in 1724, is well suited for the purpose, and contains 2 large and well-ventilated wards with accommoda tion for 240 in-door patients. The principal cutaneous diseases found here are psora and ringworm, the latter very prevalent in the maritime districts about Eome, particularly on the declivities of the Volscian hills, about Sezze, Piperno, &c. — Sta. Trinita de' Pelle grini, near the Ponte de' Quattro Capi, an hospital chiefly for convalescents, where poor patients are removed from the other institutions : on their re covery they are admitted here for 3 days or more, and receive clothing if necessary on leaving. The average daily number of patients who are re ceived amounts to 90. This institu tion, the utility of which cannot be too highly spoken of, forms a part of the great establishment for the reception of pilgrims, founded by S. Filippo Neri in 1500. In ordinary years about 4000 of these pilgrims are lodged in it, but in those of Jubilees (every quarter of a century) 300,000 have received relief; in 1625, as many as 582,760; in 1725, 382,140 ; and in 1825, 263,592 pilgrims have been assisted here. — San Jiocco, a small lying-in hospital, near the Port ofthe Ripetta, with 26 beds : although with seldom more than 10 inmates, there is great liberality as to the admission of patients, and nothing can exceed the precautions adopted to ensure secresy, and to avoid everything that can hurt the feelings or injure the reputation hereafter of those who are admitted into it ; neither the ecclesias tical or police jurisdiction is allowed to enter its walls. — Ospedale Torlonia, an hospital situated on the ascent to the Ch. of Sant Onofrio, founded by the Father of, and very liberally sup ported by the present Prince Torlonia, for patients labouring under diseases of the eyes, and for surgical cases when operations are neeessary. It is under the direction of the eminent surgeon Mazzoni, and is admirably attended to by Sisters of Charity. At tached to it is a home for orphans (Orfanatrofio) founded by the same prince ; the institution is situated in a healthy situation, with a large garden. A work entitled ' Resocouto degli Ospedale di Roma,' published by the Roman Government, will interest the professional visitor. In addition to these public hospitals, there are several small institutions of a more private nature belonging to different nations and corporations : the Germans, Spaniards, Portuguese, Lom bards, Florentines, and Lucchese have each their separate hospitals ; that of the German Protestants, founded by sub scriptions, chiefly at the instigation of the late Chevalier Bunsen, on the Monte Caprino, near the Capitol, for poor Pro testants, deserves particular mention. It can accommodate 8 or 10 patients, who are received gratuitously,or,if they can afford it, on payment of a small daily retribution. The hospital is under the protection of thePrussian Legation, near to which it is situated: the sick ward forms a floor in a large building overlooking the Forum and the Pala tine, the upper part of which is occu pied by the officers of the Archaeolo gical Institute, its library, &c, and by apartments let out chiefly to artists or foreign literary men visiting Rome. The hospital department is well deserv ing of the support of our countrymen who visit Rome, as the only one where 320 §30. HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Rome, poor British Protestants can be received without being subjected to the perse cution of the friars and attendants in the other hospitals to bring about their conversion to Romanism ; upon no cha rity in Rome can the contribution ofthe English Protestant be more worthily bestowed ! Besides the other charitable institu tions of the cj,ty, there are numerous confraternities for visiting the sick, for burying the dead, and for distributing marriage portions to young girls. In the latter way a sum of 35,000 scudi, distributed in 925 portions, is annually granted, not including similar gifts from private families. It is not to be sup posed, however, that this figure repre sents the number of marriages, as in many cases the same girl will receive a portion from more than one insti tution. Another very laudable mode of charity is the distribution of relief at the homes of the poor by different con fraternities or Commissioni de' Sussidii, as they are designated ; one of the most active and useful being that of S. Vincent de Paul, which holds its meetings in the Convent of II Gesu. In this way upwards of 225,000 scudi (45,0l)0?.) are expended annually, of which the general treasury contributes 179,364 scudi. All this is independent of the large sums given by local con fraternities, and the rich aristocratic families, whose estates are many of them heavily burdened for the pur pose. It may surprise the traveller therefore, with such a profusion of charities in every shape, that mendi city exists at Rome to such a glaring extent. There is no doubt that public charity is in many cases indiscrimi nately, and often injudiciously bestowed, and offers a premium to idleness; it has the effect of drawing to the capi tal those hordes of sturdy beggars by whom the traveller is assailed at every turning in the strangers' quarter ; but it is also to be feared that this system is encouraged by the Catholic Church to an extent that is attended with con sequences the contrary to those in tended to be obtained. There is no large city in which street-begging is practised with more annoyance to the public than Rome, and few places where, from the large sums bestowed in charity, it ought less to exist. The Sospital of San Michele, at the Ripa Grande, in the Trastevere, is an immense establishment, formerly in tended as an asylum for poor children and infirm persons ; but of late years converted into an institution for in dustrial purposes. The hospital, pro perly so called, now consists of a house of industry for children of both sexes, a house of correction for women and juvenile offenders, and schools oi the industrial and fine arts, in which drawing, painting, music, sculpture, &c, are taught: in the industrial por tion upwards of 800 persons are em ployed; the organization of this part of the establishment is due to the efforts of the late director Cardinal Tosti. The school of arts perhaps aims at an education beyond the power of the pupils, although it has produced some men of eminence, amongst others the celebrated engravers Calamata and Mercurij. The education of the boys might be turned perhaps to more practically useful objects. An nexed to this hospital, but entirely dis tinct from it, is a large prison, chiefly for the reception of political offenders, and for persons accused of serious offences. Worhltouse of Sta. Maria degli An- geli. — This establishment, founded by Leo XII. in 1824, in the granaries of the Government, at the Baths of Dio cletian, contains nearly 1000 boys and girls, including about 100 deaf and dumb, who are selected amongdeserving objects in different parishes of the city. The boys are taught trades and music, and girls what is necessary for do mestic service. The establishment is supported chiefly by the Government, which contributes 39,000 scudi an nually, and from the profits of the labour of its inmates. There is no workhouse in our English sense for old people in Rome, which may be considered as one of the causes of the excessive amount of street men dicity. The visitor to Rome, desirous of Sect. I. § 30. PROTESTANT BURIAL-GROUND. 321 more detailed information on the hospitals, educational and charitable institutions, and prisons of Rome, will find it in Cardinal Morichini's work, of which a new edition has been recently published, entitled Degli Institute di Carita, e di Educazione di Roma,] 1 vol., 8vo., 1870. § 30. Protestant Burial-ground. The Protestant Burial-ground is one of those objects which all foreign tra vellers will regard with melancholy interest. It is situated near the Porta di S. Paolo, close to the Pyramid of Caius Cestius. The silence and seclu sion of the spot, and the inscriptions which tell the British traveller in his native tongue of those who have found their last resting-place beneath the bright skies of the Eternal City, ap peal irresistibly to the heart. The cemetery has an air of romantic beauty which forms a striking contrast with the tomb of the ancient Roman and with the massive city walls and towers which overlook it. Among those who are buried here are the poets Shelley and Keats ; Richard Wyatt and John Gibson the sculptors, and John Bell the celebrated surgeon. The tomb stone of Shelley is in the upper part of the new burial-ground, under the Aurelian wall, with this inscription : — " Percy Bysshe Shelley. Cor Cor- dium. Natus iv Aug. mdccxcii. obiit vm Jul. MDCCCXXII. " Nothing of him that doth fade, But doth suffer a sea change Into something rich and strange." The expression Cor Cordium, "the heart of hearts," is in allusion to the story that, when his body was burnt on the shores of the gulf of Spezia, the heart was the only por tion that the fire did not consume. In the old cemetery, near the entrance- gate, is the monument of John Keats, with the following inscription : — "This grave contains all that was mortal of a young English poet, who, on his deathbed, in the bitterness of his heart at the malicious power of his enemies, desired these words to be engraven on his tombstone : ' Here lies one whose name was writ in water.' February 24, 1821." The grave of John Bell, the eminent writer on anatomy and surgery, is close by. By far the greater number of monuments bear the names of Englishmen; the other Protestants^ interred here are chiefly citizens of the United States, Germans, and Swiss. There are also several Russians, the fol lowers ofthe Greek Churchbeingconsi- dered at Rome as beyond the pale ofits church, or "Acatolici." Themonuments are in better taste than those of the Eng lish cemetery at Leghorn, although less so perhaps than one might expect to find in this capital of the Fine Arts : there is a great deal too much affeeta tion, and a display of sentimentalism in many of the inscriptions which would be better placed in Pere la Chaise. There are, however, exceptions, and we would direct the steps of our fellow countrymen to the plain travertine slab, with its simple and feeling inscrip tion, erected by the Hon. Capt. Spencer, R.N., to 5 British sailors who were drowned, "when on duty from their ship off Fiumicino, in May, 1825, as a testimony of respect and regret of their captain." Near the entrance is a memorial to the amiable Chev. Koestner, well known amongst the British com munity of Rome, raised by his friends, chiefly English. The grave of John Gibson is in the upper part of the hew cemetery, near those of Mr. Woodward, so long clergyman of the British Pro testant Church, and of the popular banker of Rome, Mr. E. Macbean, a very creditable specimen of Mr. Cardwell's talent. The building in the lower part of the cemetery is a dead-house for the temporary reception of Protestants of every nation, pending their being sent to their last homes, liberally erected at the expense of Mrs. King, mother to the last Envoy of the United Sxates at Rome — the usage being very general amongst American citizens to have the remains of their relatives conveyed to their native country. The ground is remarkably well and neatly kept. A p 3 322 § 31; Climate. Rome, deep trench surrounds the old ceme tery, which was abandoned as the plantations round the graves were likely to mask the view of the pyramid of Caius Cestius. The new burial- ground, which has been much enlarged, is enclosed by a wall raised at the expense of the papal government. A Sum amounting to about 1000 scudi, subscribed by British and other Pro testants, is invested in the Roman funds, the interest of which is applied to defray the salary of a keeper, who is always in attendance, and the ex penses of repairs. The fees for the purchase ofthe ground for graves are moderate, 65 lire; in a leaden coffin double that sum. Protestant Funerals. — Everything re garding the interment of Protestants is placed under the superintendence ofthe committee of the English Church, who have fixed a tariff of charges, which will be presented by the Custode or keeper of the ground, or the person who per forms the duty of undertaker, to the family of the deceased. This tariff includes everything, such as hearse, coffin, mourning-carriages, charges to the Roman municipality for the ground, fees to the Officers, &c. The funerals are divided into 3 classes: 1st, 620 francs, or 251., including a vault for supporting a large monument ; 2nd, 270 frs.j without a vault, but in every other respect decent ; 3rd, for per sons unable to incur the expense, as certified by the British or United States Consuls, a fee of 65 frs. only for cemetery fees. These charges do not include a leaden coffin, which will cost 50 cents, per lb. weight ; car riages for friends, crapes, gloves, &c. The clergyman attending the funeral generally receives a gratuity of from 2 to 3 napoleons. Sig. Giovanni Truechi and his son, who live at No. 7, Piazza Montanara, are the undertakers ap pointed by the British Church Burial Committee, and for whose charges they are responsible. As there have been loud, and in very many cases well-founded, com plaints on the subject of the exorbitant funeral charges to British and Ameri can Protestants, it will always be well to submit the bills of the custode of the cemetery, or of the undertaker who may be employed, to the approval of the British Church Committees. Sig. Truechi will also attend to the erection of monuments and railiDgs and keeping them in order. As it is a common practice amongst citizens of the United States to remove the remains of their relatives to their own country, it may be as well to state for their information, that in such cases embalmment of the bodies is necessary, an operation generally confided to Pro fessor Mazzoni, the eminent Roman surgeon (Via Mario dei Fiori, No. 79), whose charge, everything included, is 1100 francs. A building in the ceme tery has been erected at the expense of Mrs. King, widow of the representative of the United States, where the corpses are deposited provisionally. The usual mode of transmission is by steamer from Civita Vecchia to Leghorn, and thence by sailing vessels ; in the case of English, direct by steamer to Mar seilles, and thence by railway. Signor Truechi, the Custode ofthe Cemetery, will be the best person to employ, having agents at Leghorn, Marseilles, and Liverpool ; the charge of convey ing bodies to Liverpool is about 25J. sterling from Leghorn, and from there to the United States 150 dollars. Funerals of British and American Roman Catholics are under the direc tion of the curate of the parish in which the death takes place. The church charges, as well as those at the extramural cemetery of S. Lorenzo, are regulated also by a fixed tariff. Since the introduction of the government of the King of Italy all intramural burials in churches, &c, are forbidden. § 31. Climate. Our notice of the Protestant burial- ground, where so many monuments bear the names of our countrymen who have visited Rome in the pur suit of health, may naturally lead to the consideration of its climate. Sir James Clark, in his work on Climate, describes it as " mild and soft, but rather relaxing and oppressive. Its mean annual temperature, as deter- Sect. I. § 31. climate. 323 mined byflS years' observations at the Collegio Romano, is 60° 1', or lj° be low that of Naples, and 4^° below that of Madeira. The mean temperature of winter still remains 10° higher than that of London, and is somewhat higher than that of Naples, but is 1 1 ° below that of Madeira. In spring the mean temperature is 9° above London, 1° colder than Naples, and 4° colder than Madeira. In range of tem perature Rome has the advantage of Naples, Pisa, and Provence, but not of Nice. Its diurnal range is nearly double that of London, Pen zance, and Madeira. In steadiness of temperature from day to day Rome comes after Madeira, Nice, Pisa, but precedes Naples and Pau." In regard to moisture, Rome, although a soft, cannot be considered a damp climate. Upon comparing it with the dry, parching climate of Provence, and with that of Nice, we find that about one-third more rain falls, and on a greater number of days. It is, how ever, considerably drier than Pisa, and much more so than the S.W. of France.* The frosts which occur in December and January are sel dom of long continuance, being more the effect of radiation under a brilliant clear sky than of a freezing atmo sphere, as in more northern latitudes, generally occurring during the night and disappearing before the noonday sun. (The month of January, 1858, afforded a remarkable exception to this, it having frozen nearly every night during the last half of the month, the thermometer falling on two occasions to 22° Fahr.) The thermometer in an ordinary winter seldom falls lowerthan 25° Fahr., although it has been as low as 17° (inEebruary, 1845). December * The average annual quantity of rain that falls at Rome is 16 -jjj inches (41 mill.) Oct. Is the most rainy month as to quantity ; Nov. as to the number of rainy days. Upon an average of several years, rain falls on 95 days, 155 are fine, 122 cloudy, of which 88 are sunless. Dur ing the winter— from Dec. 1870 to Feb. 1871 — the fall of rain was excessive; more than 20 inches having fallen in 2 months ; which raised the level ofthe Tiber to above 17* metres (57* feet)— the greatest height reached during the present century, — producing most destructive floods in all the lower parts of the city. I and February are the coldest, and July and August the hottest months in the year, their respective mean temperatures being 47° 2' and 75° 9', and the greatest heat in the shade 93° 7'.* Snow is not common, and seldom lies on the ground for more than 24 hours. The N. wind, or tramon- tana, prevails often for a considerable time during the winter and spring, as it did in the year 1860 for nearly 3 months: when long-continued, it is mo derate and agreeable ; but it is some times harsh and penetrating : this, however, seldom extends beyond 3 days, though the years 1868, 1869 were remarkable exceptions. The sirocco, or S. and S.E. winds, although relaxing, produce little inconvenience during the winter months ; in summer their debilitating effects ¦ are more marked and oppressive. All classes at Rome agree in regarding the hour immediately following sunset as the most unhealthy time of the day, and in summer especially few of the natives expose themselves to its in fluence. Another local peculiarity is the care with which the Romans avoid the sunny side of the street and exposure to the sun generally: it is a saying that none but English men and dogs walk in the sunshine at Rome, and the practice of our countrymen certainly justifies the pro verb. In a city built like Rome the native practice in this instance is un questionably the most prudent ; for the rapid transition from a powerful sun to shady streets open to the keen spring winds is severely felt by inva lids. The malaria fevers, which have existed from the earliest period of which we possess any correct details, have no doubt been increased by the depopulation of the country. They are of the same nature, both in their pro ducing causes and general characters, as the fevers which are so common in the fens of Lincolnshire and Essex in our own country, in Holland, and in * On July 14, 1841, the therm, in the shade stood at 107° 6', a most unusual degree of heat. From 25 years' observations at midday, the greatest heat in the shade, 844°, took place between July 20 and Aug. 10. 324 § 31. CLIMATE. Rome. marshy districts over every part of the globe, and at inconsiderable height above the sea. The form and symp toms under which these fevers manifest themselves may differ according to the intensity of the producing cause, or to local circumstances in the nature of the climate or season when they occur ; but it is the same disease, from the fens of Lincolnshire and the swamps of Walcheren to the pestilential shores of Africa, only increased in severity, ceteris paribus, as the temperature in creases. Malaria fevers seldom occur epidemically at Rome before July, and they cease early in October with the first autumnal rains, a period during which few strangers reside there. The fevers of this kind which exist at other seasons are generally relapses, or complicated with other diseases, such as affections of the lungs : the months of January and February 1858 were remarkable instances of this fact, when the mortality amongst the native population was at one time increased three-fold by influenza, accompanied by fever. One of the most common predis posing causes of this fever is exposure to currents of cold air, or chills in damp places, immediately after the body has been heated by exercise and in a state of perspiration. This is a more fre quent source of other diseases also among strangers in Italy than is gene rally believed by those who are un acquainted with the nature of the climate. Exposure to the direct in fluence of the sun, especially in the spring, is also an exciting cause, and a frequent determining one of re lapses. Another is improper diet. An idea prevails that full living and a liberal allowance of wine are necessary to preserve health in situations sub ject to malaria. This is an erroneous opinion ; and many of our countrymen suffer in Italy from acting on it. Sir James Clark remarks the long-observed exemption of the populous parts of large towns, in consequence of the greater dryness of the atmosphere, and adds, " A person may, I believe, sleep with perfect safety in the centre of the Pontine marshes by having his room kept well heated by a fire dur ing the night." According to the experience of the Romans, the mias mata which produce malaria fevers rise chiefly from the Campagna, and from the damp grounds of the de serted villas ; they are dense and heavy, hanging upon the ground like the night fogs of Lincolnshire. They are invariably dispelled by fire, and their advance is prevented by walls and houses. Hence we find that the con vents on some of the hills within the immediate circuit of the city walls are occupied from year to year by reli gious communities with comparative innocuity, while it would be dangerous to sleep outside the same walls for a single night. Nothing is now better understood than that the progress of malaria at Rome is dependent on the extension ofthe population. Whenever the population has diminished, the dis trict in which the decrease has taken place has become unhealthy; and whenever a large number of persons has been crowded in a confined space, as in the Ghetto and the more densely- peopled quarters around the Capito line Hill, the salubrity of the situation has become apparent in spite of the uncleanly habits of the inhabitants : to persons affected with gout, rheumatism, and nervous affections, a southern aspect in their dwellings is of the greatest im portance. The Roman writers, who have collected some curious proofs of these facts, state that street pavements and the foundations of houses effectually destroy malaria by preventing the ema nation of the miasmata; and that, whenever a villa and its gardens are abandoned by the owners as a mere appendage to the family palace, the site becomes unhealthy, and remains so as long as it continues uninhabited. It is also well known that the body is more susceptible of the influence of malaria during sleep than when awake : hence the couriers who carried the mails at all seasons between Rome and Naples made it a rule not to sleep whilst crossing the Pontine marshes, and generally smoked as an additional security. In regard to Rome as a residence for invalids, it is generally considered one of the Sect. I. § 31. CLIMATE. 325 best in Ifaly in the early stages of consumption. In this class of ma ladies, the symptoms which had con tinued during the outward journey frequently disappear after a short residence ; but in the advanced stages the disease generally proceeds more rapidly than in England. In bron chial affections and in chronic rheu matism it has been found bene ficial ; but to persons disposed to apo plexy, or who have already suffered from paralytic affections, and vale tudinarians of a nervous melancholic temperament, or subject to mental despondency, the climate of Rome is not suitable : in many such cases, even a residence at Rome is unattended with danger ; nor is it proper for persons disposed to hsemorrhagic affec tions, or for those who have suffered from intermittent fevers, at a preced ing period, however distant.* The following remarks are of import ance to the invalid : — " There is no place where so many temptations exist to allure him from the kind of life which he ought to lead. The cold churches, and the still colder museums of the Vatican . and the Capitol, the ancient baths, &c, and we may add the Catacombs, are fraught with danger to the invalid ; and if his visits be long or frequently re peated, he had better have remained in his own country. It is a griev ous mistake to imagine that when once in such a place the evil is over, and that one may as well remain to see the thing fully. This is far from being the case : a short visit to these places is much less dangerous than a long one. The body is capable of maintaining its temperature and of resisting the injurious effects of a cold damp atmosphere for a certain length of time with comparative impunity ; but if the invalid remain till he be comes chilled, and till the blood, for- * The average number of deaths annually at Rome has of late years been 5742 ; the fewest in April and Sept. 267 and 416 ; the greatest in Oec. 606, and Jan. 550. But during the pre sent winter (1872) the mortality has greatly increased from small-pox, diphtheria, fever, &c, or to more than 2000 deaths in the months of December, January, and February. saking the surface and extremities, is forced upon the internal organs, he need not be surprised if an increase of his disease, whether of the lungs or of the digestive organs, be the con sequence of such exposure. Excur sions into the country when the warm weather of spring commences, particu larly when made on horseback, are another and a frequent source of mis chief to delicate invalids, especially if returning ' after sunset." In selecting theirplacesof residence, invalids cannot be too careful in avoiding damp quar ters, and should bear in mind the well- known Roman saying, that, where the sun does not enter, the physician invariably must. The following observations on the climate of Rome, especially in its rela tion with disease, has been drawn up for the Editor by one of the most eminent Italian physicians long esta blished there : — " It has been the fashion of late years to abuse the climate of Rome in con sumptive cases, just as much as its beneficial action had been overrated before. It is the usual course of human opinions. We shall endeavour to repre sent things as they really are, for the information not only of invalids, but of medical men, who do not seem generally to possess very clear notions on the nature of the Roman climate. " It is a common impression amongst the natives that the air of Rome thickens the blood (addensa il sangue). The fact is, this climate is particularly favourable to the sanguification, in creasing the quantity and improving the quality of the blood. The climate will, therefore, prove very beneficial in scrofulous cases, to persons of a lymphatic disposition with debilitated constitutions, and generally in cases accompanied with languid circulation and general debility. It is well known that pulmonary consumption originates in the greater number of instances in such constitutions, and, therefore, the climate of Rome proves particularly beneficial in all cases of slow or pro tracted consumption and in the first stages of the disease, or when it is not so far advanced as to be accompanied 326 §31. CLIMATE. Rome. with fever and an inflammatory action of the system. Should this last be the case, or consumption be suddenly de veloped in a sanguineous temperament and an inflammatory constitution, the climate of Rome produces a very prejudicial action, and the disease hurries at a rapid pace to its fatal termination — a remark indeed appli cable to all southern climates. " The peculiarities already noticed as belonging to the Roman climate will explain how it acts unfavourably in full or plethoric habits, disposed to apoplexy and to abdominal congestions. " Rome is very injurious in what is generally known by the designation of weak stomachs; and it is particularly prejudicial in cases of atonic dyspepsia and hypochondriacal affections. On the contrary, it is beneficial to per sons affected with inflammatory action or irritation of the mucous membranes, and in well-defined gastritis. " It is a very common prejudice amongst foreigners that the climate of Rome is unfavoufable to children. If they are delicate, it is quite the re verse ; for in general it proves very ad vantageous to the youngest ages. If the English will persist, however, in send ing out their children clothed as they would do at home, with bare legs and in summer dresses in the winter and spring, they must not attribute their sufferings to the unfavourable effect of the climate. This is a practice strongly to be reprobated, being the most frequent cause of illness amongst our infantine countrymen. " It has also been said that the climate of Rome is prejudicial to per sons subject to diarrhoea and dysentery. Such is not the case, excepting in the hottest months of the year, when few foreigners, and of the better classes amongst natives, remain in the city. " Much idle talk has been circulated about Roman fevers. The real Roman fever is nothing else than the ordinary intermittent fever or ague, the same which exists in all marshy countries of temperate and Southern Europe. This fever, however, at Rome, assumes sometimes, though in rare cases, a very malignant character, then called the Febbre Perniciosa, and if not attended to or cut short in time is very likely to prove fatal ; on the other hand, if properly attended to at the outset, it is easily subdued. The other fevers which are occasionally met with at Rome are exactly the same as every where else, and only ignorance of their nature has given to them the name of Roman fevers. Typhus fever, so preva lent in more northern countries, is almost unknown at Rome. Instead ot it, another form, called Febbre nervosa, or nervous fever, by the natives, which presents some of the characters of the typhus, is not rare amongst foreign visitors ; but it is altogether different, less dangerous, and, above all, not con tagious. Of late years numerous cases of this fever have appeared amongst foreigners arriving from Naples, and have been attributed to the unhealthy situations near the Chiaja where they had resided, arising from the bad water and open and pestilential sewers in that part of Naples ; several of these cases have ended fatally amongst foreigners both in Rome and at Florence. " Atonic gout is generally deve loped, or thrown out on the joints, with much advantage to the constitution, by the climate of Rome, and chiefly if the residence of the invalid has been protracted through the hotter months. " There is a good deal of difference in the intensity of action of the cli mate on health and disease in the different quarters of Rome. Consump tive, delicate, and feeble persons will find the situation best suited to their ailments in the level or lower portion of the city — in the Rione di Campo Marzo, for example, where little move ment exists in the atmosphere, and where the temperature is more equable, and less subject to sudden changes. But persons endowed with better health would do well to fix their residence in the higher, hilly portion of the city, about the Via Sistina, Via Gregoriana, or Via delle Quattro Fontane, and avoid the Via di Babuino, which is con sidered by all physicians as less healthy on the approach of summer, espe cially towards the Piazza del Popolo, than the other portions of the foreign Sect. I. § 31. CLIMATE. 327 quarter of^he city. But in every case it will always be matter of the greatest importance that the apart ments should have a southern or western aspect, as in no place more than in Rome is the saying true — dove non va il sole va il medico." — D. P. To the above details on the diseases prevalent at Rome we may add that many cases of typhoid fever, or Gastro enteritis, have occurred, especially in ] 869-1870 ; amongst foreigners with an unusual amount of mortality ; in many instances in persons arriving from Naples, which has led to its being de signated as Neapolitan fever — a very improper name, as it attached amongst travellers who had never visited the Southern Capital. This typhoid is a low, long, and debilitating malady ; it seldom degenerates into true typhus ; it can scarcely be called contagious, although during the present year it has been more frequent in certain hotels than others, possibly from their indif ferent drainage. The number of deaths from it have exceeded sixty, of which thirteen amongst the foreigners in habiting what may be called the strangers' quarter. Travellers must be particularly cau tioned against an unworthy practice of innkeepers, and other interested parties at Nice, Florence, and even in Paris, and to which the newspapers have un fortunately lent themselves, in dis crediting the sanitary state of Rome, thereby preventing strangers resorting to it, by representing epidemics of every kind as raging in it; indeed, the same thing has been practised in Rome itself, as regards Naples. Let the traveller shut his ears to such reports, or in case of doubt apply to some of the respectable medical men at Rome or Naples for precise informa tion on the subject. There is another subject to which we are painfully obliged to allude, the haste of some hotel keepers to hurry out of their houses the bodies of the deceased, in some cases removing them in a moat indecent manner to an ' outhouse, momentarily used as a dead one. This practice ought to be resisted. The object being probably to re-let the apartment in which the foreigner has died. We have known an instance of the body of a British gentleman, who died of a noncontagious malady, being carried in a cart to the stable of the coffin maker ; and another of an American lady, who died from a disease of the liver, being stowed away in a coach-house by an hotel-keeper, in both cases without any notice being given to the relatives who were on the spot. Although somewhat indirectly con nected with the sanitary matters at Rome, it may not be out of place here to allude to what is frequently a sub ject of complaint amongst foreign visi tors. — The exorbitant demands made by a few hotel keepers, and the letters of lodgings generally, in the shape of indemnities in cases of death occurring in their houses. That they are fully entitled to such in case of deaths from infectious diseases, such as typhus fever, scarlatina, or small-pox, there can be no doubt, — as for re-paper ing the rooms and destruction of the carpets and bedding, or making them over to some charitable establishment, as is generally the case in hotels, after purification ; but the ease is different in the ordinary run of fatal maladies. In Rome, as elsewhere in Southern Europe, pulmonary consumption, in its later and final stages, is considered — and.with some appearance of reason — ¦ to leave behind it infectious conse quences : hence it has been a general custom to believe it to be dangerous to inhabit an apartment where a person labouring under phthisis has died, with out a thorough disinfecting, — the re moval of papering, carpets, bedding, &c. ; families must, therefore, be pre pared for a demand under such circumstances, whereon it will be better to come to an understanding through their banker, or physician. In northern climates such could not be entertained ; but, although there is no legal claim for indemnity, an appeal to a court of law would always prove disagreeable, and be attended with doubts as to the judicial decision. In cases of noncontagious complaints no claim can be made by the hotel- or' lodging-house keeper, beyond that on 328 § 32. GE0L0G5T. Rome. account of the deterioration of carpets, bed-linen, bedding, mattrasses, &c. ; and it must be observed that in the latter cases the indemnity demanded is generally moderate. §32. On the Geology of the Country about Rome. As many travellers take an interest in this attractive branch of natural science, a short description of the physical structure of the district in which the Eternal City is situated may not be entirely out of place in a work like the present. As has been already stated (p. 1), the extensive low country which bears the general name of the Campagna, forms a kind of amphitheatre, closed towards the N.E., E., and S.E. by the last declivities of the Umbrian and Sabine Apennines, and of the Volscian mountains, whilst it is open towards the shores of the Mediter ranean. In this amphitheatre have risen the volcanic groups of the Alban hills, so fine an object in the Roman landscape, and of the Monte Cimino, forming the southern boundary of the great plain of Etruria; and the two insulated offshoots from the Sabine Apennines — the Montes Corniculani, or hills of Monticelli, and the classical Soracte. The highest points ofthe encircling mountains on the E. of the Campagna are the Monte Genaro to the N. of Tivoli, 4165 feet ; and the Monte di Semprevisa, south of Rocca Massima in the Volscian range, 5038. The geological formatious that enter into the composition of the part of Italy under consideration are refer able to the Secondary, Tertiary, and Quaternary periods, and to the volcanic eruptions of different. ages. Secondary Rocks. — The great mass of the Umbrian and Sabine mountains consist of limestone, referable, as far as has been hitherto ascertained, to the Oolitic and Neocomian periods. The greater part of the Apennines between Narni and Palestrina appear to belong to the former, as well as the detached I groups of Soracte and ofthe Corniculan I hills: whilst a large portion of the Volscian range, extending from Rocca Massima to Terracina, with the outly ing mass which forms the Circean promontory, appear to belong to the older Cretaceous or Neocomian. The most ancient beds appear to be referable to the inferior oolite, or even to the lias, of which they contain charac teristic fossils (at Monticelli): some traces of the anomalous fossil Aptycus, found in the same locality, and in the rocks behind Tivoli, would indicate for certain^ beds an age contemporaneous with that of our British middle and Upper oolites. The insulated ridge of Soracte, which rose as an island in the Tertiary sea, and amidst the dejec tions of the most ancient volcanoes of the district, as it still stands in the midst of the Campagna, consists en tirely of limestone containing fossils analogous to those of our inferior oolite. Upon some of the higher points of the Sabine Apennines, beds of Neocomian limestones have been discovered ; but these are much more developed in the mountains of the Hernici and the Volsci, the latter separating the Pontine marshes from the valley of the Sacco, and which, after having thrown off the spur, the " saxis late can- dentibus," at the base of which Ter racina stands, the Monte Circello, and the promontory of Gaeta, continue into the kingdom of Naples, to where the river Liris rounds its S.E. ex tremity, before emptying itself into the sea as the modern Garigliano. The best locality for examining the secondary strata in the more imme diate vicinity of Rome will be at Monticelli, one of the group of the Montes Corniculani, at the W. foot of Monte Genaro, and about 18 miles from the capital. The conical hill on which that picturesque village is situated is formed entirely of beds of limestone, the base consisting of a white variety, which, from the great number of Terebratulae (T. resupinata) it contains, may be referred to the middle lias of the British Islands, whilst the central part, remarkable for a red bed, gene rally known by the Italian geologists as their calcareo ammonitico rosso, and Sect. I. § 32. GEOLOGY. 329 which is**extremely abundant in am monites (A. insignis, A. tatrieus, A. bifrons, A. discoides, A. comensis, A. fimbritus, A. heterophyllus, A. norm an - ianus, A. thouarensis,A.sternalis,&c.), is referable to the upper lias and inferior oolite. Higher up still the existence of the Aptychus and Terebratula diphya would indicate an age contemporaneous with the Upper oolites or Lower creta ceous deposits of N. Europe. The cal careous rock is partially dolomitized at Monticelli, where it is extensively quarried for making lime, supplying in modern times the whole of that material used in the constructions ofthe capital. No trace of the Upper cretaceous rocks exists in this neighbourhood, but all round the base of the 3 hills of Mon ticelli, S. Angelo, and Poggio Cesi, may be observed the Pliocene marls in horizontal strata, characterised by fossils similar to those of the Vatican. particularly at Formello, at the S. extremity of the group, where clay- pits to supply brick-kilns have been opened in them. The rocks of the cretaceous period consist of a compact grey limestone con taining Hippurites, Inocerami, Rudisti, Radioliti (in the Volscian Mountains and at Monte Cassino above San Ger- mano), &c, and of a macigno or calcare ous sandstone entirely similar to that so common in Tuscany , and by some geo logists referred to the Eocene rocks of the Tertiary period. This macigno is extensively developed in the upper val ley of the Anio and in the mountains of the Hernici, and nearer the Mediter ranean in the mountains of La Tolfa, forming their last declivities towards the coast, as may be seen near to Civita Vecchia, forming the line of shore between that port and Santa Marinella, it may be well examined in the deep cuttings of the railway between these two stations. Tertiary Rocks. — If we include the Macignos noticed in the last paragraph amongst the cretaceous rocks, as is now generally done, the tertiary 0 rocks of this part of Central Italy in general, and of the environs of Rome ia particular, can be only referred to the pliocene period, described by Brocchi and the Italian geologists under the general designation of Sub- apennine marls and sands ; it is doubt ful that any rocks of the eocene period exist in the district under considera tion. The Pliocene group in the more im mediate vicinity of the capital con sists of a very thick mass of blue argillaceous marls, known by the local name of creta, with numerous re mains of fossil Pteropodous mollusca — Cleodora, Cymbulia, Cuvieria, Hyalea, &c. (base of the Vatican hills, &c.) ; 2, an extensive series of strata of greyer marls, passing gradually into, 3, the sands which constitute the upper part of the series. All these beds are well developed on the range of hills parallel to the right bank of the Tiber, between the Monte Mario and the S. extremity ofthe Janicule, where the blue marls are extensively dug for making bricks and tiles ; and the yellow sands and gravel on the road leading from the Porta de' Cavallegieri to the Villa Pamphili-Doria, a part of the lovely grounds of which is situ ated upon them. Professor Ponzi, who has examined more carefully than any other geologist the formations about Rome, has sub divided these tertiary beds into several separate zones, but the whole seems to belong to one and the same period, and are in every respect identical with the great tertiary marl deposits of other parts of Italy, so well described by Brocchi, and consisting of a great in ferior argillaceous deposit, and a supe rior one of sands and gravel. The best localities for obtaining the fossil shells are — for the different species of Pteropodi, in the blue marl pits behind the Vatican palace and St. Peter's, and in the Val d' Inferno, lead ing towards Monte Mario ; and for those in the grey marly superincum bent beds, and of the sands above, on the E. declivity of the Monte Mario, near the Villa Madama, and in Boschi della Farnesina, N. ofthe military exercising ground near the Tiber, on the 1. after crossing the Ponte Molle (see also p. 344). 330 § 32. GEOLOGY. Rome. More than 300 species, identical for the most part with those of the Sub- apennine formations of Tuscany and of the hills bordering on the valley of the Po, and described in Brocchi's ' Conchiologia Fossile Subapennina, have been discovered in the environs of the Eternal City, chiefly by the Count de Rayneval, for many years French ambassador at Rome, who had com pleted a geological monograph of the district, with a description of its fos sils, and which was on the eve of publication, when that excellent man, and eminent public servant, was cut off, to the loss of science and of the public service of his country, of which he was so brilliant an ornament. Sig- nor Paolo Mantovani, a young and rising Roman geologist, has also made a large collection, which may be seen at his house in the Via Babuino, No. 136. The localities best adapted for the examination of the tertiary strata will be the line of hills bordering the rt. side of the valley of the Tiber, from about a mile N. of the villa Mel- lini that crowns the Monte Mario, to Pozzo Pantaleo and S. Passera at the S. extremity of the Monte Verde, and in the cuttings of the railway as far as La Magliana. Monte Mario itself is formed of Pliocene marls and sands, on the sides of which rest the more modern volcanic conglomerates of the Campagna. Behind the Vatican Basi lica and Palace are numerous clay-pits in the lowest Pliocene beds, covered with beds of yellow marine sands, which form the continuation ofthe Ja niculum; and immediately outside the walls the Monte della Creta, which fur nish at the present day, as they did in ancient times, the greater part of the earth for bricks used in the construc tion of Rome. Farther S. the compact or older volcanic tufas rest immediately on the latter; the series of longi tudinal ridges which are crossed by the carriage-road that leads from Rome to Civita Vecchia, and to Porto, being composed, in the bottom of the in tervening valleys between them, also of tertiary rocks. Within Rome itself, and on the 1. bank of the Tiber, traces of the marine deposit have been dis covered on the E. side of the Capitol under the hospital of la Consolazione (p. 318), and in excavating on the summit of the Quirinal, the central mass of which is composed of marine marls with shells, and on the Pala tine, beneath the supposed ruins of the temple of Jupiter Stator (1867). On the N.E. part of the Campagna, but at some distance from Rome, the Pliocene beds are largely developed on the lines of the Vise Nomentana and Salara, forming the greater part of the lower hilly region between the Tiber and the base of the Sabine calcareous Apennines, characterised here by its oak-woods and vine yards ; and beneath the volcanic con glomerates on the opposite bank of the river. In the bottom of the val leys of Leprignano, and in the envi rons of Rignano, the tertiary marls contain remains of a species of fossil elephant, a very rare occurrence in the lower Pliocene beds of Italy. Between Soracte and the Tiber are the tertiary hills of Ponzano, extend ing to Ponte Felice, beyond which the formation is connected with the Sub- apennine region of Central Italy, Tus cany, &c, along the valleys of the Nera, of the Tiber, and of the Chiana. Volcanic Rocks. — By far the greatest part of the surface of the Campagna in the environs of the capital is formed of materials of igneous origin. They may be classed under two heads, very different in their mine- ralogical characters, as they are in the mode in which they have been depo sited, their age, &c. The more ancient, which appear to have immediately succeeded the ter tiary marine deposits, or even to have been contemporaneous with them, and to be the result of submarine volcanic action, consists, in the more immediate vicinity of Rome, and within the city itself, of a red volcanic tufa formed by an agglomeration of ashes and frag ments of pumice : it has been desig nated under the name of Tufa lithoide by the local geologists ; and was, and Sect. I. § 32. GEOLOGY. 331 still is, much used for building pur- | lowed out, and probably the more com poses. It forms the lower part of most of the Seven Hills on the 1. bank of the Tiber, constituting the Tarpeian rock beneath the Capitol, the lower portion of the Palatine, Quirinal, Esquiline, and Aventine. It reposes probably on the marine beds, but hitherto no ma rine organic remains have been dis covered in it. It is extensively quarried at the foot of Monte Verde, outside the Porta Portese, and near the ch. of Santa Agnese, on the Via Nomen tana, for building-stone, where it is covered by a quaternary deposit, in which the numerous remains of ele phants of that celebrated Pala^onto- logical locality are embedded. No trace of the craters which produced this older tufa can now be discovered. A certain interval appears to have occurred between the latter deposit and the more modern volcanic rocks of the Campagna, during which the land seems to have been raised, and several parts of it covered with freshwater lakes or marshes. It is to this period that belong the strata of cinders, ashes, &c, which form the more immediate sur face, which are often very regularly stratified, and contain impressions of leaves of land plants, and here and there beds of calcareous gravel and marls, with land and freshwater shells, and sometimes of fossil bones, as we have seen at the Monte Verde. Of the first, the beds forming the Mons Sacer, on each side of the Via Nomen tana, may be cited as an example ; of the latter, which may be referred per haps, with some reason, to the diluvial or quaternary deposits, the marls with lymnese beneath the statue of Marcus Aurelius on the Intermontium of the Capitol, and the tufaceous beds, on which rests the city wall, above the Porta di S. Spirito in the Trastevere. But the greater part of these more re cent volcanic rocks have been deposited on dry land ; the beds are in general horizontal : the deposits of Pozzolana or volcanic ashes, so extensively used for making mortar, belong to this period of subaerial volcanoes, the red tufa granolare in which the Catacombs I or early Christian cemeteries are hoi- 1 pact varieties of tufa known under the name of Peperino, quarried at Albano and Marino,* and that which borders the Lago di Castiglione, the ancient Lacus Gabinus. To this second period of volcanic action belong also all the modern craters in the vicinity of Rome, and the numerous masses of lava which appear in the shape of currents, pro truded masses, or dykes. Craters. -^ The most remarkable crater of the Latian volcanoes is the Monte Cavo, forming the highest point ofthe Alban range ; the central opening at the summit now forms the so-called Campo d'Annibale (see p. 401). It is one ofthe finest examples of that species of volcanic vents called craters of elevation by the late cele brated Von Buch. Numerous masses of lava have protruded from its sides ; at its base are several smaller craters, of which the lakes of Albano and Nemi, and the Val Lariccia on its west side, are the most remarkable. Extensive currents of lava descend from the de clivities of the Alban hills, the longest being that which can be traced from near Marino to the tomb of Cfecilia Metella on the Appian Way, giving off a branch which runs from near le Frattocchie at the bottom of the ascent to Albano to near the Tiber at I'Ac quacetosa and Vallerano, beyond the Basilica of S. Paul's. Another under lies the hill of Tusculum ; a third forms that on which Colomia is perched and a considerable extent of the country around ; a fourth, the hill of Civita Lavinia, the ancient Lanuvium ; a fifth protrudes under the eminence on which Velletri stands ; whilst seve ral less extensive are cut through by the line of railway between the Albano and Frascati stations. In the northern * Professor Ponzi supposes, from the exist ence of fossil wood in the Alban peperino, that it has resulted from mud eruptions : its greater solidity may with more probability be attri buted to gaseous emanations passing through it subsequent to its deposit in the form of vol canic ashes. This rock, and the incoherent dejections in the midst of which it is worked appear to be the most modern of all the productions of the Latfan volcanoes. 332 § 32. GEOLOGY. Rome. part ofthe Campagna we have the great crateriform depressions, now filled by the Lakes of Bracciano and Bol sena ; and the picturesque elevation crater of Vico, on the S. declivity of the Ciminian range. The designation of craters given to the Lakes of Gabii and of the Solfatara are misnomers. That of Leprignano, which a few years ago burst forth, is of the nature of the Modenese and Sicilian Salses or mud volcanoes, being produced by a sud den emanation of carbonic acid gas through the subjacent tertiary strata. There can be little doubt that all the existing volcanic openings were sub-aerial vents, and that, whilst those which vomited the earlier igneous deposits were subaqueous, and have en tirely disappeared, those of the sub- aerial craters of the Roman Campagna have all the characters of volcanoes actually in operation on the surface of our continents. To the mineralogist the volcanic rocks of the vicinity of Rome will furnish several interesting species of simple minerals. In the lava, so ex tensively quarried for paving-stone in the quarries of Capo di Bove, a short distance beyond the tomb of Con cilia Metella, he may procure Pseudo- nepheline, Gismondite, Breislakite, Mei- onite, &c. ; and in the masses of pre-existing rocks imbedded in the peperino or tufa of Marino and Albano, many of the same simple minerals as are found in the dejections of the Fosso Grande on the declivity of Vesuvius— such as fine crystals of Leucite, of Lazulite, Carnet, Vesuvian, Pleonaste, Augite, Meionite, Nepheline, Mica, and numerous fragments of compact and dolomitized limestone. Gaseous emanations, Mineral springs, §c, to be referred to quarteDary pe riods abound in the vicinity of Rome, and may be considered as one of the last or expiring efforts of volcanic action. The most remarkable now in activity are those called Solfataras, emitting carbonic acid and sulphur etted hydrogen gases ; and when in contact with springs giving rise to those acidulated waters which abound round the capital. When rising through the purely volcanic rocks, these waters con tain but a small quantity of mineral substances, whereas nearer to the lime stone beds of the Apennines they are largely impregnated with calcareous matter, and have produced those ex tensive deposits of travertine or fresh water limestone so abundant in many parts of the Campagna. The most re markable of these springs are the small lakes of the Lago di Tartari and Sol fatara near Tivoli (see p. 374) ; that they were formerly much more widely distributedis evident from the massesof calcareous incrustations found amongst the stratified volcanic deposits, as we see within Rome itself on the declivity of the Aventine towards the Tiber, and on the northern prolongation of the Monte Pincio between the Villa Borghese and the Ponte Molle. The acidulated mineral springs of the Ac- quacetosa, near the Ponte Molle, so much resorted to by the Romans in the summer mornings, and of the Acqua Santa on the read to Albano, are the best known near the capital. Diluvial Quaternary Deposits Fossil Mammalia, 8tc. — It is not an easy matter in the classification of the ter tiary deposits around Rome to fix where those belonging to the Pliocene end, and those of the Post-Pliocene or Diluvial period commence. The upper portion of the former, consisting of beds of sand and calcareous gravel, appears to pass insensibly into those similarly composed, but characterised by the presence of scattered remains of fossil animals. The quaternary deposits oc cupy exclusively the valleys of the Tiber and Anio. As a general cha racter, also, they contain a greater pro portion of de'bris of volcanic rocks, the beds of pebbles alternating with lacustrine deposits containing fresh water shells. The best localities for examining them will be in the gravel- pits on the N. side ofthe Ponte Molle, containing silex arrow-heads, where they form the line of elevations which extend from the ancient Via Flaminia on the rt. bank of the Tiber to the base ofthe range of Monte Mario, crossed by the modern roads to Civita Castellana and to La Storta (the Via Cassia), and Sect. I. § 32. GEOLOGY. 333 bordering on the N. the military ex ercising ground of the Farnesina ; and at the base of the Monte Sacro, near the Anio, at a short distance beyond the Ponte Nomentana, where nume rous remains of a gigantic and extinct species of ox and of 2 species of elephant have been found in the gravel deposit. Tn this diluvial deposit, consisting of sands and gravel, are bones of the elephant (E. meridionalis), rhinoceros (tichorinus), hippopotamus, one or two extinct species of ox, buffalo, horse, hog, and deer, with those of a species of Felis, very nearly allied to the lynx, which still lives in this country. In a similar position, and in the ravine of I'Inviolata, on the old road to Monticelli, have been found bones of extinct quad rupeds, with flint arrowheads, the de posit being a quaternary volcanic tufa. The quarries of S. Agnese, before reaching the Ponte Nomentana, in this deposit, will be worth visiting. The beds of volcanic tufa, on which re poses that of quaternary gravel, offer ing such well characterised wave and ripple-marks of the waters in which were deposited. Fossil Mammalia. — The list in the preceding paragraph embraces nearly all the extinct quadrupeds that are found in the most modern geological deposits of the environs of Rome. There is one circumstance, however, which deserves to be more particularly noticed, — the existence of three species of elephants, and of different geologi cal ages ; the one in the lower Pliocene marls, the others in the quaternary diluvial and contemporaneous vol canic deposits. The existence of the elephant in the Pliocene strata is a recent discovery in the history of paleontology, having been found in the tertiary marine beds near Rig- nano at the foot of Soracte, where an undisturbed skeleton was dug out in 1858. The species appears to be the Elephas antiquus of Falconer. The second, or E. meridionalis, is remarkable for its colossal stature and the large dimensions of its tusks , its bones, scattered in the beds of diluvial sand and gravel, have seldom been found united ; some of the largest have been discovered in the beds of fluviatile volcanic tufa on the declivity of Monte Verde, out side of the Porta Portese, and in the cuttings for the railway, beyond the latter, in the Monte delle Piche, near la Magliana. A few bones of the E. priscus have also been found here. The Elephas primogenius, so abundantly- found in Northern Europe, has been met with but rarely in Central Italy. Remains of a mastodon (M . arvernensis) exist in a local fresh-water deposit at Montoro, in the valley of the Nera, 4 m. S.W. of Narni. Amongst the very curious geolo gical discoveries of recent date, in the environs of Rome, has been that of an ossiferous cavern, containing bones] of extinct and recent animals, which is due to a very active and zealous ex plorer, the Rev. Brother Indes, of the schools of the Freres Chretiens in the Palazzo Poli. The cavern, which is situated on the Monte delle Gioie, N, at a short distance on the rt., after cross ing the railway bridge over the Teve- rone and the Ponte Salaro, is exca vated in the volcanic tufa, which here rests on the gravel deposits, probably the same as those of the Via Nomentana and Monte Sacro. The number of species hitherto discovered is about 30, of which, amongst the extinct and no longer living in the country, are a very large species of Felis (Felis Verneuillii) of the size of the tiger, the Ursus fossi- lis, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, fossil Equus, Bos primogenius, &c. ; whilst in the upper and more modern portion are almost all the living animals of the country, and which is still the resort and den of foxes, of reptiles, birds, and fishes, which appear to belong to those of the neighbouring rivers, although now at a considerable elevation above their level. Naturalists interested in such matters will be enabled to see these different remains at the educational establishment of the Freres Chretiens, in the Pal. Poli, mentioned at p. 316. Post-pliocene Deposits — Alluvial Formations. — The most remarkable deposits of this kind are those at the mouth of the Tiber, and which will be 334 § 33. VILLA ALBANI. Rome noticed more particularly in describing the classical sites of that district, under the heads of Excursions to Ostia, Porto, &c. (pp. 448, 449). The Isola Sacra, which occupies an area of several square miles, has been entirely formed within the historical period by the alluvium of the Tiber, and which is still encroaching on the sea at the rate of upwards of 12 ft. annu ally. The district of the Pontine Marshes is an immense deposit of a similar nature, extending from the base of the Volscian mountains on the E., and the volcanic region of Latium on the N., to the shores ofthe Mediterra nean, and which is also extending from similar causes, and the banks of sand thrown up by the sea. A post-Plio cene deposit of another kind consists of a loose and porous calcareous rock, which forms the plain parallel to the coast, nearly in the whole extent from Palidoro, on the road from Rome to Civita Vecchia, to Leghorn; it con tains recent marine shells, and con sists of a loose travertine and agglo merated sand, with extensive beds of gravel regularly stratified ; it is quar ried for building-stone between Pali doro and Palo, and beyond the latter forms the low land at the base of the hills of Cervetri and La Tolfa, as it does in the environs of Civita -Vecchia ; it is similar to that quarried so exten sively behind Leghorn under the name of Panchina, for the hydraulic works of the port ; in some places it is seen as high as 40 and 50 ft. above the present sea-level. To the same period may be referred the rocks so extensively used for the hydraulic works at Brindisi, on the Adriatic. Connected with the very recent date of some of the volcanic eruptions of the environs of Rome, is the discovery of vases and human remains beneath or in the igneous deposits. This subject given rise of late to much discussion. Vases consisting of pottery of a very peculiar and primitive style have been found in the volcanic ashes beneath the; masses of Alban peperino, especi ally near the town of Marino, the Parco di Colonna, and near at Monte Cucco, overlooking the Lake of Al- berno, in Fratocchie. If established, which in our opinion it has not yet been satisfactorily done, this discovery would lead to the conclusion that the last eruptions of the Alban hills were posterior to historical periods, and to the existence of man in this part of Italy. Travertine may, be considered as a comparatively modern deposit : in this part of Italy it is confined to the valleys oftheTiberandAnio. Themostexten- sive masses of travertine exist near the base of the calcareous Apennines, and especially in the plain below Tivoli, and have furnished all that stone so exten sively used in the ancient and modern monuments of Rome. In former times the action which produced it was much more active than at present, and, as already remarked, may be considered the expiring effort of the volcanic agency in this part of Italy. The travertine seldom contains traces of other organic bodies than vegetables. The non-existence of animal remains may be attributed to the waters by which it was deposited containing in solution carbonic acid and sulphuretted hydrogen gases, which rendered it unfit for animal life. Travertine exists with in the city, on the declivity of the Aventine, and forms, outside the Porte Flaminia, a great part of the low range of Monti Parioli, extending from the Porta del Popolo to the Ponte Molle. Professor Ponzi has published 2 geological maps of this district, one embracing the capital and the volcanic region of Latium, the other the en virons of Civita Vecchia and of the metalliferous district of La Tolfa, and of the country extending from the Lake of Bracciano to the sea. The same savant is engaged on a more general Geological Map of Central Italy. The geologist will find in the Mu seum of Mineralogy, at the University ofLaSapienza(p. 309), avery extensive collection of the rocks and fossils of the hills within the walls of Rome, formed by the eminent geologist Broc chi, to illustrate his work ' Descriz- zione del Suolo di Roma,' 1 vol. 8vo. ; Sect, I. § 33. VILLA ALBANI. 335 the serieff formed by Prof. Ponzi, the most eminent of the living Roman geologists; and a fine one of the simple minerals from the lava current at Capo di Bove and in the peperino Albano, forming part of the collection sold by the late Count Medici Spada to the Roman government. Sig. Paolo Mantovani, already mentioned, who is well acquainted with the geology of the environs of Rome, has also a good collection. He lives at No. 136, Via Babuino, and will always be glad to show it to the geological traveller. The author has been indebted to his friend Count Edouard de Verneuil, one of the most eminent among living geologists, who has during many years studied the environs of Rome, for much of the new information contained in this article of our present edition. § 33. Villas. "A few cardinals," says Forsyth, " created all the great villas of Rome. Their riches, their taste, their learn ing, their leisure, their frugality, all conspired in this single object. While the eminent founder was squandering thousands on a statue, he would allot but one crown for his own dinner. He had no children, no stud, no dogs to keep. He built, indeed, for his own pleasure, or for the admiration of others ; but he embellished his coun try, he promoted the resort of rich fo reigners, and he afforded them a high intellectual treat for a few pauls, which never entered into his pocket. His taste generally descends to his heirs, who mark their little reigns by successive additions to the stock. How seldom are great fortunes spent so elegantly in England! How many are absorbed in the table, the field, or the turf! — expenses which centre and end in the rich egotist himself." Villa Albani ("purchased by Prince Torlonia, with all its contents, for a sum exceeding 125,000?. sterling), to be seen on Tuesdays from 12 to 4, by an order, to be obtained at the bank of Messrs. Spada, Flaminini, Via Condotti, or through a banker, a short distance on the rt. beyond the Porta Salara, built in the middle of the last century by Cardinal Alessan dro Albani. The design was entirely his own, and was executed under his superintendence by Carlo Marchionni. " Here," says Forsyth, " is a villa of exquisite design, planned by a pro found antiquary. Here Cardinal Al bani, having spent his life in collecting ancient sculpture, formed such porti coes and such saloons to receive it as an old Roman would have done : porticoes where the statues stood free upon the pavement between columns proportioned to their stature ; saloons which were not stocked but embel lished with families of allied statues, and seemed full without a crowd. Here Winckelmann grew into an an- I tiquary under the cardinal's patronage and instruction ; and here he projected his history of art, which brings this collection continually into view." At the first French invasion the Albani family incurred the displeasure of Napoleon, who carried off from the villa 294 pieces of sculpture. At the peace of 1815, the spoils, which had been sent to Paris, were re stored to prince Albani, who, being unwilling or unable to incur the ex pense of their removal, sold them, with the single exception of the Anti nous, to the king of Bavaria. Notwith standing these losses, the villa is still rich, being surpassed only by the Mu seums of the Vatican and the Capitol. Fortunately for the interests of art, the mansion did not suffer, as some others about Rome did, during the insurrec tionary movements in 1849, and it therefore remains in all its beauty, with its charming grounds, its sculp tures, and other artistic treasures un injured. The objects of art are con tained in the Casino and the Coffee-house, between which is an extensive parterre, or ornamental garden, laid out with great taste. I. The Casino consists of a fine portico, decorated with columns of granite and cippolino, surmounted by a suite of halls, and having on each side wings in the form of galleries, opening from as many vestibules, all of which are decorated with sculptures. 336 § 33. VILLA ALBANI. Rome, There is a detailed catalogue sold on the spot ; each object has its name attached, most of the determinations having been made by Winckelmann. Commencing with the Great Portico, the most remarkable objects in it are sitting statues of (51) Augustus, and (79) Agrippina, (54) of Tiberius, and (6l) of a female, supposed to be Faus tina. Statues in niches of (55) Tiberius, (59) Lucius Verus, (64) Trajan, (72) Marcus Aurelius, ( 77 ) Antoninus Pius, and (82) Hadrian ; few, if any, of these statues have, however, their original heads. (66, 74) 2 altars with reliefs of a dance of the Hours and 3 fine basins in pavonazzetto and cippolino marble. Ofthe many Hermes, that of (52) Mercury with a Greek in scription is the most interesting. On the 1. ofthe portico is (Il.)the Vestibule or Atrio del Cariatide, so called from a (19) statue of a Caryatid, bearing on the back of the basket the names of the sculptors Criton and Nicholaus of Athens, who are supposed to have lived in the time of Augustus ; on each side are ( 1 6-24) statues of Canephorse. From the vestibule opens the 1. gallery, used as a conservatory, in which are placed a series of busts, the most deserving of notice being those of (48) Alexander the Great, (45) Scipio Africanus, (40) Hannibal, Homer, and Epicurus ; of the statues in the niches — (46) a male figure grasping a dagger, called Brutus, probably a combatant in the arena; (110) a Faun with fruit in his lion-skin covering, a Muse, and a handsome Vase, with dolphins for the handles. Returning through the great portico, on the rt. are a series of rooms forming the corresponding wing of the casino, a vestibule, followed by the Conservatory, out of which opens a series of smaller rooms, divided off as follows: — 1. Atrio di Giunone con tains statue of (93) Juno and several busts. 2. The Second Gallery with se veral statues ; (106) a Faun and young Bacchus, in the centre a vase with Bacchanalian reliefs ; ( 1 20 ) Caius Coosar, the son of Augustus ; Hermes of (158) Euripides, (118) Seneca, and (112) Numa. The next room, 3. Sala delle Colonne, with an ancient mosaic pavement, has a remarkable column of alabaster of the variety called Fiorito, found near the Navalia or Marmorata of the Emporium. The sarcopha gus (131) which stands here, with reliefs of the marriage of Peleus and Thetis, has been pronounced by Winckelmann to be one of the finest bas-reliefs in existence ; a circular altar with reliefs representing a triumphal dance; (132) a good bust of Lucius Verus; an Etruscan priestess; (143) Livia sacrificing, ith Room, Gabinetto Prima, or of the Terra-cottas. — (161) A curious bas-relief representing Diogenes in a large jar receiving Alexander; ( 1 64) a bas-relief of Daedalus and Icarus in rosso - antico ; a colossal mask of a river-god ; (165) an ancient fresco representing a landscape ; several inte resting terracotta bas-reliefs, found in the grounds of the Villa Caserta, now the Convent of the Liguorini, on the Esquiline, the most remarkable being, (181 ) Minerva presenting a sail to the Argonauts in the fitting out of the shipArgo; Latona and Artemis; a frieze of the Hours ; Silenus in a bacchana lian scene, &c. 6th Room, Gabinetto Secundo. — In the centre a large tazza with the Labours of Hercules, found near the temple of that demigod erected by Domitian on the Via Appia ; (195) statue of Leda and the Swan ; on the walls are several Ro man inscriptions. 1th Room, Gabinetto Terzo. — (205) Small bas-relief repre senting Iphigenia in Tauris recog nizing Orestes and Pylades ; (222) an interesting mosaic ot the Nile, with several of the animals inhabiting its banks; (202) a bas-relief in Pa vonazzetto marble of a bacchanalian feast ; several Roman inscriptions. 8th Room, Gabinetto Quarto. — (219) A Faun in Parian marble. This room opens on a terrace shaded with ilexes, leading to the Bigliardo, and on which are placed numerous sepul chral cippi, bas-reliefs, inscriptions, &c. Over the door is (223) a bas-relief, supposed to represent Achilles and Memnon. The Bigliardo is hand somely decorated with marbles, and has a few indifferent statues. Re turning to the Great Portico of the Sect. I. § 33. VILLA ALBANI. 337 Casino, from an oval vestibule opens a flight of steps leading to the 1st floor of the palace: in this vestibule are statues of Ceres and Isis, Bacchus and Hercules, and some colossal masks. At the foot of the staircase are a statue of Rome triumphant ; and an ancient painting of two females, called Livia and Octavia, sacrificing to Mars ; and as we ascend (885) bas-reliefs of the death of the children of Niobe ; (895) a colossal mask in rosso-antico : and over the side doors (893) fragments of friezes, supposed to represent the dis tribution of corn to the people by Antoninus Pius in honour of his wife, and a procession of draped females, called the orphan children of Faustina. Apartments on 1st floor. — 1, Sala Ovale : (905) a good sitting statue of Apollo. The statues round the room are (906) an athlete attributed to Stephanos, a pupil of Praxkeles; (915) a Cupid bending his bow; (913) Fauns; a Silenus; and (922) a Mercury. On each side of the win dow are 2 very good columns of giallo- antico ; and above a curious bas-relief of a race of children; in which are represented the carceres of a circus. The door on the rt. leads into the Galleria Nobile, a fine room, opening out of which are several smaller ones: the roof is painted by Mengs, and represents Parnassus with Apollo and the Muses; the walls are richly ornamented with marbles and mosaics, and have several bas-reliefs let into them, the most remarkable of which are (1008) Hercules and the Hesperides; (1009) Dasdalus and Icarus; (1013) a male personage called Antinous holding a horse in front of a Corinthian por tico; figures of Antoninus with the caducaaus, and Faustina, personifying Peace and Rome. Over the prin cipal entrance (1014) a bas-relief in the archaic style, representing a sacri fice, with a Corinthian temple in the background : the figures sacrificing are those of Victory, Diana, Venus, Apollo. (1023) Busts of Gordian IIL, and (1026) of Messalina; heads in white marble, busts in alabaster. In the 1st room on the rt. are Hermes busts of (1040) Socrates, (1034) Theq, [Rome.] phrastus, and (1436) Hippocrates, and over the chimney (1031) a very ancient bas-relief of Zethus, Antiope, and Am- phiou. The frescoes of ancient edifices on the walls are by P. Anesi ; the Venus and Cupid on the roof drawn by swans by Becchiarari. In the 2nd and 3rd room is a collection of pictures removed from the Palazzo Albani, at Rome, the bestofwhichare — (37) Perugino,a. paint ing in 5 compartments, representing the Adoration of the infant Saviour by the Virgin with saints, the Crucifixion, the Magdalen, and an Assumption, signed and dated 1491, consequently one of Perugino's early works. (36) Nicolo du Fuligno, a large Ancona in compart ments. Giulio Romano, 2 composi tions in water-colours of bacchanalian scenes. Guido, the head of an old man. Titian, small portrait of Paul III. Luca Giordano, 2 pictures of children. Giorgione, a good male portrait. Tinto retto, a Crucifixion, and another of the same subject attributed to Vandyclc. Albano, a small Holy Family. Vander werf, a Descent from the Cross. (35) Luca Signorelli, the Virgin and Child, with SS. Lawrence, James, Sebastian, and the Douatorio, for whom the pic ture was painted ; in the next room are (49) a small painting or sketch of the Transfiguration attributed to Raphael himself ; it is about 4 ft. square, and stood formerly in the bedroom of the Princess Albani; (7 1) Carlo Maratta,the Death of the Virgin and Resurrection of Lazarus. Returning to the Galleria Nobile, the 1st Room on the left contains the celebrated bas-relief of Antinous crowned with the lotus-flower, found in the ruins of the Villa Adriana, and which Winckelmann has described with rapture : " as fresh and as highly finished," he says, "as if it had just left the sculptor's studio. This work, after the Apollo and the Laocoon, is perhaps the most beautiful monument of antiquity which has been transmitted to us." 2nd Room. — Four Etruscan sepulchral urns in alabaster from Vol terra; (977) bas-reliefs or plaster casts, Hercules and Apollo contesting for the tripod ; (990) a series of bas-reliefs in an archaic or Etruscan style, of a priestess b.efqre Berenice, the wife of 9 338 § 33. VILLA ALBANI. Rome. Ptolemy Evergetes; and (980) of Leucothea with young Bacchus and Nymphs; (985) a large bas-relief of Lynceus and Pollux, a good piece of Greek sculpture, stated to have been brought from the Parthenon ; statues of an Etruscan priest and priestess. In the 3rd Room are some paintings, amongst others (18) a bacchanalian scene in Aquarello by Giulio Romano; (21) a portrait of Tomas Morus attributed to Holbein; (20) a copy of Raphael's Barberini Fornarina; (33) a curious painting, supposed to represent the lamily of Raphael and its genealogy, the author, one of his descendants, Antonio Sani, holding the inscription " Genalogia Raphaelis Sanctii Urbinatus ;" the portrait of Giovanni, the father of the great painter, is supposed to have been painted in 1 589 by Raphael himself. From this we enter the Gabinetto at the eastern extremity of the casino, which contains several good specimens of ancient art : (952) the bronze Apollo Sauroctonos, considered by Winckel mann as the original statue by Praxi teles, described by Pliny— it was found on the Aventine, and has been much restored ; a small bronze statue of Minerva ; ( 933 ) an ancient copy, also in bronze, of the Farnese Her cules ; fine bas-relief of the Repose of Hercules, with a Greek inscription, and (960) another, in marble, supposed to be of the poet Persius ; (948) a Diana in alabaster, with head and hands of bronze ; (964) a legless statue of iEsop in Pentelic marble; (942) a small one of Diogenes. In the re maining 3 rooms leading to the Sala Ovale have been placed a series of indifferent tapestries from Flemish de signs, executed at Rome ; some paint ings by Giorgione, the 2 best (10 and 13) Bacchanalian scenes ; in the 3rd or last, portraits of Card. Albani, the founder of the villa, by Carlo Ma ratta, of Clement XL, a picture of his election as Pope, and of several pos sessions of the family. The Coffee-house. — The second part of the Villa Albani consists of a semicir cular portico, supported by columns of granite. Under the arcade are several statues, busts, and masks, all much re stored. Amongst the former, those most worthy of notice are Isocrates, (610) Chrysippus, (634) a veiled Caligula, (607) Antisthenes, 2 statues of Carya tids, and others of Bacchus and Her cules. In the vestibule, leading from the portico to the Gallery, is a very large tazza in Egyptian breccia, with statues of (641) Marsyas, (711) Juno, and (704) Silenus. The Gallery, Galleria del Canopo, is a very handsome apartment ; it contains (691) a Canopus in green Egyptian basalt, probably ofthe time of Hadrian. — Ancient mosaics form the pavement ; statues of Juno and a nymph — on the pedestals on which they stand are ancient mosaics, one of which, (696) found at Atina, near Arpino, represents the delivery of Hesione from the monster — the other, (663) a school of philosophers, from Sarsina, in the Romagna; (682) an Ibis with a ser pent in rosso-antico ; a handsome can delabrum ; statues (684) of Atlas bear ing on his shoulders a Zodiac with its signs, and Jupiter in the centre ; and of the Bona Dea with a Fawn ; (676) a large bust of Jupiter Serapis in green basalt and marble ; and (678) a Boy concealed behind a comic mask. Egyp tian Hall. — In an open portico beneath 1iie coffee-house have been arranged several specimens of Egyptian sculp ture— (562) a statue of the goddess Pascht, in black granite, and (558) another of Ptolemy Philadelphus, colossal ; in the centre of the room is (559) an elephant in the same material, true to nature, of the Asiatic species ; 4 sphinxes in limestone, 2 in black marble, all probably of the Roman period of the time of Hadrian : several specimens of sculpture and inscriptions are let into the adjoining wall, which forms one of the foundations of the parterre ; in one of the alleys lead ing from the entrance-gate towards the Casino is a colossal bust of Winckel mann, by Woolf, placed here in 1857 at the expense of the King Lewis of Bavaria: and on each side of stairs, descending from the Casino to the parterre, colossal busts of Trajan and Titus. Near the entrance to the grounds on the 1. is a marble pillar, supposed to have been a Met a from some circus, Sect. I. § 33. VILLA BORGHESE. 339 The view of the Sabine and Alban ranges from the upper part of this villa, and especially from the windows and roof of the Casino, is very fine. Villa Altieri, opening off the road that leads from Sta. Maria Maggiore to Santa Croce ; it was once a magnificent retreat, now it is falling into decay, the grounds being let out to market-gar deners. The curious labyrinth formed by box plantations, which formerly ex isted here, has been cut down and con verted into a cabbage-garden by its new owner. Villa Bonaparte, in the Via di Porta Pia, formerly Paolina, from thePrincess Pauline Bonaparte Borghese, the sister of the first Napoleon, to whom it be longed : it occupies all the space along the Aurelian Wall from the Porta Salara to the Porta Pia. The Casino is elegantly fitted up, and the gardens handsomely laid out. It now belongs to Prince Napoleon Charles Bonaparte, the youngest son of the late Prince of Canino. From a terrace on the city wall there is a magnificent view over the Campagna to the Sabine and Alban hills. This beautiful resi dence was greatly injured by the shells of the beseiging Italian- armies on Sept. 20, 1870, and which on that day entered Rome by a breach in the Au relian Wall by which it was enclosed. Villa Borghese, outside the Porta del Popolo, and extending to near the Via Salara ; open to the public every day, after 12 o'clock ; and the Casino, with its galleries of statues, on Saturdays, from 2 until 4 in winter and spring, and after 3 p.m. during the summer months. The Villa Borghese, one of the favourite resorts of the Roman people in summer, and the most con venient promenade for the upper classes and foreign residents at all seasons, had remained comparatively closed for some years, in consequence of the restorations and new laying out of the grounds, rendered necessary by the devastations committed, and the cutting down of the plantations Plan oe Gallery at Casino Borghese — Ground Floor. a. Entrances. &. Stairs to Second Story. c. Cabinet. do 1 oS ,.-:..-- — nn— .jnj.^-Tni — an- Scale 15 SO-yarjZf 1. Vestibule, d, d. Candelabras. II. Salone. III. Hall of Juno. b. Statue of Juno. IV. Hall of Hercules, e. Amazon. V. Hall of Apollo, g. Statue of Apollo. V[. Galleria. VII. Hall of the Hermaphrodite, h. Statue of Hermaphrodite. VIII. Hall of Tyrteus. i. Statue of Tyrteus. IX. Egyptian Hall. 1c. Statue of Palsemon. X. Hall of the Faun, I. Statue of Faun. 340 § 33. VILLA BORGHESE. Rome. during the siege in 1849. It is now open with increased facilities, and during the winter and spring months forms the most fashionable and agree able of all the drives and walks round the capital. A French corps having succeeded in forming a lodg ment on the range of heights ex tending from the Ponte Molle to the Porta del Popolo, and in the grounds of the Villa Borghese itself, in 1849, the Roman Commission of Defence was obliged, from strategic considerations, to order the destruction of the trees extending on the slopes towards the city walls, to deprive the besiegers of a cover in case of their attacking Rome on this side. It is to be regretted, however, that the unjustifiable de struction of an aqueduct, for the less honourable motive of stealing the leaden pipes, was perpetrated by per sons unconnected with the authori ties, as well as other very extensive damage, and for which the noble owner has received no compensation. The Casino remained luckily untouched, as did the specimens of sculpture which it contains, although at one time it was proposed to remove the latter to the Vatican for the sake of security. The principal attraction of the Villa Borghese is the Casino, formerly used as a summer residence, but now con verted into a museum of statuary. It was erected by Card. Scipio Borghese, from the designs of Vansanzio, en larged during the last century, and converted into a gallery of sculpture by the present Prince Borghese, under the direction of the eminent architect Canina, to whom also are due the interior arrangements, de corations, &c. The Borghese family formerly possessed a very rich col lection of ancient sculpture found in excavating od their numerous posses sions, and especially at Gabii, which were arranged here and in another casino close by called the Museum Gabinum. The most valuable of these were removed to Paris by Napoleon, for which an indemnity of 15 millions of francs was promised to Prince Bor ghese, but of which » large sunj re mained, as it still does, unpaid at the fall of the French empire. A great portion, therefore, of the present col lection of the Villa Borghese has been made by the two last princes. The Casino consists of 2 floors, the rooms on the lower one being confined to ancient sculpture, those above to modern statuary and pictures. There are catalogues for each floor, which will be lent to the visitor, upon appli cation to the custode. I. The entrance is from a portico 70 ft. long, enclosed by an iron grating, under which are ranged — 2, 11, 23. ancient candelabras; three mutilated bas-reliefs from the Arch of Claudius, which stood near the Piazza Sciarra ; 14. a sarcophagus, with bas-reliefs of naval sports, with the representation of a harbour and a lighthouse. — II. Great Hall or Salone. This magnificent 7room, the ceiling of which, painted by Mario Rossi in the last century, represents the ar rival of Camillus at the Capitol, is paved with ancient mosaics of gla diators and combatants in the amphi theatre, discovered in 1834, amongst the ruins of a Roman villa at la Giostra, near Torre Nuova, one of the Borghese possessions on the Via La bicana. These mosaics are interesting for the costumes of the figures repre sented, and the animals they are com bating — lions, tigers, panthers, oxen, deer, buffaloes, antelopes, and ostriches. Many of the figures have names an nexed : a certain Astacius, who waves a flag over his fallen antagonist Astivus ; another, designated as Alumnus Victor, holds up in mark of triumph the bloody knife which he has just drawn from the mortal wound inflicted on his ad versary ; a third, Serpenus killing a panther : many of the combatants wear helmets with closed visors and have long shields. As works of art these mosaics have little pretensions, and date probably from the latter part of the 3rd century. It is supposed, like a 6omewhat similar one discovered in the Thermae of Caracalla and now in the Lateran Museum, to have deco rated the gladiators' unrobing-room in the Roman villa above mentioned. The principal specimens of sculpture Sect. I. § 33. VILLA BORGHESE. 341 in the Salone are— 1. a statue of Diana ; 5. the colossal bust of Juno ; and 3. another of Isis ; 4. a colossal dancing faun ; 7. a statue of Tiberius ; 9. Augustus as Pontifex Maximus ; 11. a statue of Bacchus, forming part of a group of that divinity and Ampelus ; 15. a colossal figure of Bacchus ; a statue of Caligula; 14 and 16. colossal busts of Hadrian and Antoninus Pius. — Bas-reliefs of young Bacchus and Pan, beneath No. 11 ; and the large alto-relievo of Curtius leaping into the gulf. The busts of the 1 2 Caesars, in coloured marble, are modern, as well as the medallions on the pi lasters; the frescoes of animals on the roof are by Peters. Opening out of the Salone on the rt. is Room III., the Sala di Giunone, so called from, 1 . the statue of Juno Pronuba (b), which stands in the centre, discovered in a Roman villa near Monte Calvo, at the 32nd mile on the Via Salara : the other statues are, 3. Urania; 9. Leda and the Swan with Cupid ; 4. Ceres ; 5. a Venus Genitrix ; 20. an interesting bas- relief, discovered at Torre Nuova, representing the birth of Telephus; 11. a bas-relief of Cassandra borne from the altar. The paintings of the roof are by De Angelis ; that in the centre representing the Judgment of Paris. — Room IV., called the Sala di Ercole, from the many sculptures relating to Hercules which it con tains. The group in the centre is that of a combating Amazon (/); 2 bas-reliefs (e e) (3, 4, 17, and 18), which formed the sides and covers of sarcophagi, ofthe Labours of Hercules ; another sarcophagus, with, 1 0. a bas- relief of Tritons and Sea Nymphs, with a mask ofOceanus in the centre; 21. a statue of Venus, not unlike that of the Capitol; several statues, and, 6. a colossal bust of Hercules ; one, 45. a statue of Hercules in female attire with a distaff; casts of the legs of the Farnese Hercules, formerly in the possession of the Borghese family, now in the Museo Borbonico. — Room V., or Camera di Apollo. This room, decorated with columns of Egyptian granite, has paintings of Apollo and Daphne, by Angeletti; of the Valle of Tempe, by Moore ; and of Apollo and Diana, by Labruzzi : in the centre is, 1. a statue of Apollo (g) ; and round it others of the Muses. 3. A bust of Scipio Africanus; 4. A statue of the Metamorphosis of Daphne into a laurel ; 6. A good group of Venus and Cupid ; 7 and 11. Busts of Bacchantes; 8. A statue of Melpomene ; 10. of Clio ; 13. A sitting figure of Anacreon, from Monte Calvo ; 14. A colossal bust of Lucilla, wife of Lucius Verus; 16. Erato; 18. Polymnia. A passage (ci leads to Room VI., the Galleria, or Great Gallery, a magnificent hall, 60 ft. long, opening on the garden, decorated with paintings by Marche tti and De Angelis. The story of Galatea is painted by the latter. 2 columns and the pilasters are in oriental alabaster ; the medallions by artists of the last century. The series of busts, in porphyry with alabaster torsos, of the 12 Cassars are modern. The porphyry urn, in the centre of the room, is said to have been brought from the Mausoleum of Hadi'ian. 32. A bronze statue of the young Geta. — Room VII. Gabinetto, or of the Her maphrodite. 7. The statue (h) of that fabulous creation, was found near the ch. of Sta. Maria della Vit- toria, with that of the same subject now in the Louvre. 3. A statue of a Faun or Satyr ; 6. Bust of Titus; 11. A copy in marble of the bronze statue of the shepherd Martius in the Palazzo dei Conservatori at the Capitol ; 10. A bust of Tiberius ; 13. ofCorbulon; 15. A headless statue of a youth, supposed to be Ilo, of fine workmanship, discovered in 1830 near Mentana, the ancient Nomentum. The ancient mosaics on the floor, repre senting fishing scenes, were found near Castel Arcione, on the road to Tivoli, and are interesting as showing that the mode of fishing with a round or cast net was exactly the same as is now practised on the banks of the Tiber. — Room VIII. Camera di Tirteo, formerly called della Candelabra, the candelabra having been lately re moved to the Vestibule to make room for — 1. the statue of Tyrtaeus («'), now in the centre of this apartment. The Borghese Gladiator, one of the finest 342 § 33. VILLA BORGHESE. Rome. statues in the Louvre, formerly stood here. The paintings, by Pecheux and Thiers, represent the Death of Milo, Polydamas, and Theseus. Of the other statues the most remarkable are — 2. Minerva Polias ; 4. Apollo in a toga, with a griffon and a tripod ; 5. A colossal bust called Lucilla ; 7. A triple Caryatid or Canephora; 10. Leda and the Swan, discovered near Frascati in 1823 ; 1 5. jEsculapius and Telesphorus ; a bas-relief of 3 draped figures, a female in the centre, from the sepulchral monument of some sena torial family. — Room IX., or Camera Egizziaca. In the centre stands a mar ble group of a boy on a dolphin (li), try ing to force open its mouth, and called Palaemon, son of Alamos and Ino; 3. Isis ; 4. Paris ; 8. Ceres in black marble; 10. A modern statue of a Gipsy, in bronze and marble ; 19. A colossal bust of Hadrian ; 20. An in- I different statue of a Venus. — Room X. Camera del Fauno. 1. The fine statue of the Dancing Faun in the centre of this room was discovered in 1832, with several others purchased by P. Bor ghese, in the ruins of a Roman Villa at the 32nd mile on the Via Salara. 2. Good draped statue of Ceres ; 3. c Mercury Liricinus, or inventor of the ceiling, are by Gavin Hamilton, an lyre; 4. Satyr; 8. Copy of the Faun | English artist settled in Rome in the of Praxiteles, in Parian marble; 9. the celebrated antiquary, by Bisetti.— Roomll. Camera deiRitratti. 1. The bust of Paul V. by Bernini; 27. the portraitof Marc Antonio Borghese, father of that pope, by Guido ; 7. that of Paul V, by Caravaggio ; 3. the bust of Card. Scipi- one Borghese is also by Bernini. The numerous other family portraits here are of little interest as works of art. Opening out of this room is one with architectural subjects by Mar- chetti; and beyond the latter a cabi net, on the ceiling of which is a paint ing of a Satyr and sleeping Venus, by Gagnereau, called also Jupiter and Antiope.— Room V. Camera della Venere Vincitrice, so called from the, 1. statue of Princess Pauline Borghese, sister of the first Napoleon, by Ca nova, who has represented her as Venus Victrix. She was one of the most beautifully-elegant women of her l day. The bas-reliefs over the_ four doors, in giallo-antico, by Pocetti, re present— 2. Jupiter and his Eagle; 3. Venus and Cupid ; 6. Paris ; 7. Apollo. The statues, 4 and 5. of Venus and Paris are by Penna. The paintings on the walls, of Helen and Paris, the Death of Achilles, the De parture of Helen, and those on the Pluto; 14. Sitting statue of Periander. Busts; 6. of Seneca; 7. of Minerva Gorgolapha, or with the head of Me dusa on her helmet. 19. Group of Bacchus and Libera. The Upper Story is reached from the Galleria at b by a winding staircase, and is entered by — Room I., or the Galleria. The frescoes on the ceiling are by Lan franco ; the Landscapes on the side- walls by Hackaert and Marchetti. The three principal groups of statues in the centre are by Bernini, and represent, 2. jEneas carrying off Anchises, one of the artist's earliest works, said to have been executed when he was only 15 years old; 1. Apollo and Daphne, when he was in his 18th year; and 3. David in the act of slaying Goliath, one of Bernini's finest works. The seve ral marble vases are modern. On one of the tables is a bust of Canina, last century. The Presentation of the Infant Paris to Hecuba, in the octagon above the central window, is one of the earliest works of Cammuccini. —Room VI., Camera di Orizonte, has its walls covered with pictures, painted by Bloemer, of Antwerp, called Ori zonte by the Italians. The sculptures on the chimney-piece, in rosso-antico, of a bacchanalian procession and sacri fice are by A. Penna; and the modern statue of a Bacchante playing on the lyre, with a Cupid, by Tadohm. On the opposite side of the Casino, and on the same floor, are 2 _ rooms containing a number _ of indifferent pictures, amongst which, 4 of ani mals by Peters ; a San Marino, by Pompeo Battoni ; a representation of a tournament at the Vatican, in the presence of the pope and his court, is interesting for the costumes, and for the view of St. Peter's, then in progress, Sect. I. § 33. VILLA LUDOVISI. 343 when the raising of the dome had only been commenced ; and an indifferent modern statue of Diana by Cavaceppi. In the upper part of the grounds stood the Villa Olgiati, better known by its traditional name of the Casino of Raphael. It consisted of 3 rooms deco rated with frescoes, arabesques, and medallions, in which Raphael's beauty of design was combined with the most delicate fancy. They were fortunately removed to the Borghese Palace before the events of 1849 (seep. 285), when the casino was demolished. The fresco ofthe Rape of Helen, attributed also to Raphael,was removed before the Casino came into Prince Borghese's possession, and was included in the portion of the Campana collection sold to the Emperor of Russia in 1861 : it is well known as being reproduced on the earthen ware of Urbino and Gubbio. In another part of the park is a fac-simile of a small Roman temple dedicated to Faus tina, the peristyle consisting of 2 granite columns with their ancient Corinthian capitals, and with copies before it of the Greek inscriptions, now at the Louvre, found on the site of the Villa of Herodes Atticus, on the Via Appia. Villa Lante, on the Janiculum, built from the designs of Giulio Romano, contained 4 rooms painted in fresco by Giulio Romano and his scholars. These frescoes have been removed to the Pa lazzo Borghese. As the villa has been converted into a convent of the nuns of the Sacre" Coeur, it is closed except to ladies. Villa Ludovisi, was founded by Card. Ludovisi, the nephew of Gregory XV., and is now the property of the prince of Piombino, of the Buoncompagni family, the descendant also of the Ludovisis, with whose order it may be seen on Thursdays, during the winter and spring, when not inhabited by the family. The grounds, which are very extensive, reaching from the Porta Pinciana to the Porta Salara, include a portion of the Gardens of Sallust. They contain 3 casinos. The largest, on the_l. of the entrance, built from the designs of Domenichino, has nothing worthy of notice in the interior ; it is in habited by the younger members of the family. The 2nd casino, on the rt., con tains a rich collection of ancient sculp tures, arranged in two rooms on the ground floor, with good catalogues for the use of visitors. — Room I. The prin cipal objects in this hall are statues of — 1 . Hercules Thermalis ; 4. Pan teach ing the flute to Olympus; 11. Venus coming out of the Bath ; 13. Another Venus; 15. A senatorial figure, having the name of the sculptor, Zeno of Aphro- disium, cut on the toga ; 16. A series of sepulchral bas-reliefs representing the Labours of Hercules; 19. Urania; 9. Bust of Geta ; 20. Colossal bust of Juno in an archaic style; 28. Semi- colossal bust of Venus ; 42, 46. Hermes of Mercury and Minerva ; 48. Hercules Victor of Archelous ; 34. A fine co lossal mask in rosso-autico marble ; 39, 40. Busts of Vespasian and Hadi'ian. — Room II. Containing, 1. the fine group of the sitting Mars reposing with a Cupid at his feet, found within the precincts of the Portico of Octavia, and restored by Bernini, — it is supposed to have formed a group of Mars and Venus ; 2. Bust of Claudius ; 3. Statue of Apollo; and 5. of Mi nerva Medica ; 7. The celebrated group considered by Winckelmann to represent Orestes discovered by Elec- tra, bearing the name of a Greek sculptor, Manelaus pupil of Stephanus ; 9. A fine statue of a youth with goat's ears, called a Satyr, the torso and legs alone ancient ; Colossal bust in bronze of Marcus Aurelius ; 23. Good heroic statue of Antoninus Pius ; 26. A statue much restored, supposed to be of Bac chus ; 30. A statue of Bacchus ; 1 7. A bronze bust of Julius Ca?sar, con sidered to be one of the finest portraits of that great man; 28. The group of Partus stabbing himself after his wife Arria had given him the example, is considered by Winckelmann to re present Canace receiving the sword sent by her father iEolus ; 30. Statue of Mercury ; 34. A statue ofthe Venus of Cnidos coming out of the bath ; 41. The fine colossal head known as the Ludovisi Juno ; 43. Bernini's cele brated group of Pluto carrying off Proserpine, one of his finest works; 344 § 33. VILLA MADAMA. Rome, 44. A bust of Hygeia; 46, 50. Busts of Augustus (?) and Antinous ; a colossal Minerva, the Pallas Iliaca, by Antio- chus of Athens ; 52. A bust of Clo dius Albinus; 54. The sitting statue of a Hero.* In the Casino of the Aurora, occupying the highest part of the grounds, and inhabited by the family in May and June, is the cele brated, fresco, by Guercino, represent ing Aurora in her car driving away Night and scattering flowers in her course. In one of the lunettes is Day break, represented as a youth holding a torch in one hand and flowers in the other. In another opposite is Evening, as a young female sleeping. In one of the adjoining rooms on 1. are 4 landscapes in fresco, with a circle of angels in the centre of the vault ; 2 painted by Domeni chino, and 2 by Guercino; and in another some very beautiful groups of Cupids, by T. Zucchero. On the ceil ing of the upper saloon, above the Hall ofthe Aurora, is a fine fresco of Fame, accompanied by Force and Virtue, also by Guercino ; from the terrace on the roof opens one of the most extensive panoramas over Rome and the ad joining Campagna. The garden con tains many statues, antique marbles, and other sculptures ; among which are a Satyr attributed to Michel Angelo ; a Sepulchral Urn, with high reliefs of a combat between Romans and some barbarous nation ; and opposite the entrance gate a co lossal block of Egyptian granite, on which is supposed to have stood the Sallustian Obelisk (p. 93) ; it measures 323 cubic feet, and weighs nearly 25 tons ; it was found within the precincts of this villa. The grounds are taste fully laid out in pleasure-grouuds, and well pierced with drives and alleys of box, evergreen oaks, and cypresses: near the entrance, on the 1., are two gigantic specimens of the Platanus orientalis, amongst the largest that exist of this tree. Villa Mudama, on the eastern slopes * The finest statues in the Ludovisi gallery have been photographed by Mr. Anderson; these photographs may be procured at Spithover's Li brary. of Monte Mario, about lj m. from the Porto del Popolo. This interesting villa derives its name from Margaret of Austria, the natural daughter of Charles V., who married Alessandro de' Medici. It was built by Giulio Romano for Cardinal Giulio de' Medici (afterwards Clement VIL), but from the desigus of Raphael. It became the property afterwards of Ottavio Farnese, duke of Parma, and now belongs to the ex-king of Naples, but has long remained untenanted. The villa consists of a beautiful loggia, opening on a terrace garden, and richly decorated with paintings by Giulio Romano and Giovanni da Udine : the three cupolas of its vault are particu larly beautiful, especially its frieze in fresco of griffons, and the white reliefs upon a blue ground on the pendentives. In two rooms on the E. side of the building are some good frescoes ; those forming the deep frieze round the large hall and the ceiling, representing Apollo and Diana in their chariot, drawn by horses and oxen, with birds and animals in the compartments, and the Medicean arms in the centre, are by Giulio Romano. These frescoes are engraved in Griiner's work on ' The Architectural Decorations of Rome during the 15th and 16th Centuries.' The front towards Rome was to have consisted of a hemicycle, decorated with Doric half-columns and niches, but was never completed ; the opposite front, formed for the greater part by the loggia of 3 arches, is Ionic. A road opening out of that connecting the Ponte Molle with the Porta Angelica leads to the Villa Madama, which can now be visited, the family of the gar dener of the neighbouring grounds re- sidingin it. The house is better cared for than it formerly was, and the beautiful loggia, formerly open to all weathers, is now enclosed. From the terrace opening out of the great hall there is a lovely view over the plain of the Tiber, the N. part of the city, and the Sabine Mountains. The geologist will be interested in examining the strata close to the Villa Madama ; they contain a great quantity of fo sil marine shells of the pliocene period. Sect. I. § 33. VILLA SALUSTIANA — VILLA MASSIMO. 345 A path from here through the woods leads to the top of Monte Mario, and to the Villa Mellini. Villa Massimo, formerly Giustini- ani, near the Lateran, to be seen by an order from Prince Massimo, remark able for its frescoes illustrating the chefs-d'oeuvre of Dante, Ariosto, and Tasso, by modern German masters. The first room contains subjects from the Divina Commedia, by Koch and Ph. Veit; the subjects of the 2nd, by Schnorr, are from the Orlando Furioso ; those of the 3rd, by Overbeck and Fiihrich, are from the Gerusalemme Liberata. Villa Massimo Rignano, or Salus- tiana, near the Villa Ludovisi, entered from the Via di San Basilco, the pro perty of Duke Massimo, the head of the second branch of that historical family. It derives its second name from its position on the site of the Gardens of Sallust. The Casino is one of the most elegant of the villas within the walls of Rome, the flower gardens exceeding all others for their beauty, variety of plants, &c. In its great dining-room is placed a mar ble statue of the unfortunate Count Rossi, who was so barbarously assassi nated in June, 1 848, when proceeding as Minister of Pius IX. to the Legis lative Assembly. It is perhaps the finest statue by Tenerani (see p. 88). A portion of the Carceres of the Circus of Sallust exist in the upper part of the grounds. There is a fine entrance to this villa, with iron gates, from the Via di San Nicolo di Tolenteno, one of the first objects to attract the notice of the traveller on entering Rome from the railway station. Villa Mattei, on the Cselian. The grounds, which belong to a religious confraternity, are not easily entered, command splendid views — that of the Alban hills, with the aqueducts of the Campagna and the walls of Rome in the foreground, is, perhaps, unsurpassed ; the view over the baths of Caracalla and the Aventine is also very fine. Several speci mens of ancient marbles are placed in different parts ofthe grounds, many of which have been found on the spot; of the latter, on each side of the fine alley of ilexes, two pedestals of statues dedicated to Marcus Aurelius by the officers and soldiers ofthe 5th cohort of the Vigili, who were stationed here ; their names are all inscribed on them. The principal interest of the Villa Mattei is from its situation and the magnificent views from its grounds. The wall of Servius Tullius encircled the part of the Cselian on which the Villa Mattei stands, and the modern bastion, raised by Paul III. at its extremity, rests upon the ruins of these more ancient defences. Villa Medici.— This fine villa, on the Monte Pincio, the seat of the French Academy, and the property of the French government, was built by Car dinal Ricci, of Montepulciano, from the designs of Annibale Lippi, with the exception of the garden facade, which is attributed to Michel Angelo. It was subsequently enlarged by Card. Alessandro de'Medici, prior to his being elected Pope as Leo XI. The situation is one of the finest in Rome, and the grounds of the villa are ^nearly a mile in circuit. The villa contains a large collection of casts, and in the garden is a colossal statue of Rome. The French' Academy, founded in 1666 by Louis XIV., was established in this villa in the beginning of the present century ; an annual exhibition of pic tures by French artists takes place here every year in May. The gardens have been liberally opened to strangers of late years, a great advantage to the foreign families residing about the Piazza di Spagna. Upon the walls of the palace towards the garden are several interesting fragments of an cient sculpture, amongst others a curious relief of H. Coccles on the Sublician Bridge, and some represent ing temples and other edifices of an cient Rome. Villa Mellini, on the summit of the Monte Mario, about a mile from the Porta Angelica by an excellent car riage road: open to visitors. It was built by Mario Mellini, from whom the hill on which it stands derived Q 3 346 § 33. VILLA PAMPHILI-DORIA. Rome. its name. It is situated in one of the finest situations about Rome, its great attraction being the magnificent view it commands over the city, the Cam pagna, and the distant mountains.* The casino offers little interest, ex cept for the view from the Belvidere on its summit. The Monte Mario is an interesting point in a geological point of view, being composed of beds of the tertiary marine strata clays and sands, on which rest those of volcanic tufa. The marine beds, especially those of gravel and sand, are rich in fossil shells of the Subapen- nine or Pliocene period, more than 300 species having been obtained from this locality ; the best points where they can be procured are on the slopes toward the Tiber, behind the Villa Madama, and along a path leading through oak woods, and about § m. farther N., particularly in the ravine which opens into the meadows of la Farnesina, now used as a military exer cising ground, and at its N.W. ex tremity. Villa Negroni, or Massimo, near S. Maria Maggiore, formerly one of the most beautiful villas within the walls of Rome ; a considerable part of its grounds has beeu included in the Cen tral Railway Station. A portion of the famous agger of Servius Tullius may be traced through the grounds of this villa. The mound called the Monte della Giustizia in it, planted with cypresses and surmounted by a statue of Rome, commands an exten sive view of the ancient and modern city. All the antique statues and marbles which have been dug up at various times within the precincts of this villa are now dispersed. A con siderable portion of it is now in cluded in the Central Railway Station, where the finest existing portion of the agger and wall of Servius Tullius may be seen. Villa Palatina, formerly the Villa Spada, and now converted into a con vent of Visitandine nuns, and therefore closed to visitors. The remains of ¦*' The panorama from the Villa Mellini has been photographed very successfully by Llr. Anderson, to be procured at Spithover's. the Palace of the Csesars, still visible in the grounds of this interesting villa, and' the Casino, painted by Giulio Romano, have been already no ticed (p. 33). The gardens are prettily laid out, but the house — half Chinese, half Gothic — offers a singularly dis agreeable contrast with the classic scenery and ruins by which it is sur rounded. The entrance is from the street leading from the Arch of Titus to the ch. of San Bonaventura, and close to the latter. Villa Pamphili-Doria, entered by a grand approach about J m. beyond the Porta S. Pancrazio (open to the public on Mon. and Frid. including carriages, private or hired, provided drawn by 2 horses ; on Sund. only by special permission from Prince Doria), the most extensive villa on this side of Rome, the grounds exceeding 4 m. in circuit. It was presented by Innocent X. to Olimpia Maidalchini, the wife of his brother, in 1650, and was arranged from the designs of Antinori and Al gardi. The grounds are laid out in gardens, avenues, terraces, and planta tions, among which the lofty pines, which form so conspicuous a fea ture in all views of Rome on this side, add considerably to the beauty of the spot. The fountains and cas cades are in the fantastic style of the 17th century. The Casino was also built by Algardi. In 1849 the casino and the grounds of the villa were occupied by the republican troops of Garibaldi, who maintained his position here for many weeks against the whole power of the French army. The advantages of the situ ation soon made it essential to the success of General Oudinot's opera tions that the Romans should be dis lodged, and, after having been taken and retaken several times, the casino and its grounds were finally occupied by the French troops. Some portions of the building suffered during these operations, but have since been com pletely restored, the loss falling en tirely on the owner. During the fre quent struggles between the contend ing armies on this spot, several men fell on both sides ; and it is needless Sect. I. § 34. CATACOMBS. 347 to say that the gardens, fountains, statues, and other edifices, were seri ously injured. From the side of the grounds overlooking St. Peter's we have a better view perhaps of the flank of the basilica than can be obtained from any other place. The colum baria and tombs discovered in these grounds mark the line of the ancient Via Aurelia. The most complete columbarium, a very large one, and surrounded by several smaller, is imme diately behind the new Chapel ; it also suffered during one of the combats in 1849, by the fall of its walls; it contains some hundred urns, but few inscriptions ; and is considerably below the surface. Near it has been recently erected a semicircular church decorated with ancient Corinthian columns for the use of the family, and communicating with the casino by a subterranean passage, and on the opposite side a Swiss cottage and dairy ; the former tenanted during May and June by the junior members of the family. A monument to the French who fell in the sanguinary struggles about the villa has been raised, at the ex tremity of one of the great avenues of evergreen oaks; it consists of an octagonal temple, having a. statue of the Virgin on its front, covered by a canopy supported by 4 white marble Doric columns, with the names of several of the dead who lie beneath in scribed on the basement. The popular name of Belrespiro, given to the Villa Pamfili by the Romans, can allude only to the delightful variety of its scenery, not to the salubrity of its air, as the park is uninhabitable from ma laria in July and August. Nearer the Porta di San Pancrazio, the villas ofthe Vascello, Corsini, and of the Quattro Venti, being nearer to the walls, and exposed to the fire and the frequent sorties of the besieged, were reduced to an irremediable state of ruin. The two latter have been since purchased by Prince Doria, and a part of their grounds added to the Villa Pamfili, forming a new approach from the Porta di San Pancrazio. An ancient paved way has been discovered near the Orangery of the Villa Pamfili, | which is supposed to have been a cross road from the Via Aurelia to the Via Vitellia. The Vila Wolkonshi, formerly Pa- lombara, on the Esquiline, occupies, with the Villa Massimo, a considerable extent between the two roads leading from Santa Maria Maggiore to the Basilicas of the Lateran and of Santa Croce: it is now the property of a Russian princess. The grounds are handsomely laid out. From the highest point there is a fine view over the' Campagna, the Alban hills, and the line of the Claudian Aqueduct, which car ried its waters from the Porta Mag giore to the Cselian. A curious Colum barium, consisting of 3 chambers superposed, has been opened in the grounds of this vilra, near the aque duct ; on the front which faced the ancient Via Labicana is an inscription in fine Eoman characters, stating it to have belonged to a certain T. Claudius Vitalis, an architect, and erected by Eutychius, one of the ¦ same trade ; it is of brick, and supposed to date from the time of Nero. The terracotta sarcophagus in the lower chamber, with bones, is of a much later period. Strangers are admitted into the grounds with a permission to be obtained from the agent at the Russian embassy. The Casino is a mere garden-house, and devoid of interest. § 34. Catacombs. A review of the Pagan and Christian monuments of Rome would be incom plete without a brief notice of those subterranean excavations which served as places of refuge and of worship to the earliest followers of our faith during the persecutions they had to suffer under the predecessors of Con stantine, and of rep'ose after death to so many thousands, from the earliest period of Christianity to the 6th cent. of our era. It is not easy to fix the origin of the name of Catacomb, now generally applied to all these excavations; it appears to have been first employed in the 7th cent, to designate a limited § 34. CATACOMBS. Romi, space or vault beneath the Basilica of St. Sebastian, on the Appian Way, ad Catacumbas, where the remains of St. Peter and St. Paul were deposited when recovered from certain Greeks who were carrying them off by stealth to their country. Its general appli cation, however, to these Christian sepulchres, was only at a much later period, for we find these caverns of Christian resort and interment uni versally designated, in the Acts of ¦the Martyrs and early fathers of the Church, as Cemeteries, or Places of Repose. The Catacombs are distributed in considerable numbers — about sixty in all — in every direction outside the walls of the city. It is very doubtful that any exist within the precincts of modern Rome, even inside of the Aure lian wall, much less of the more ancient precinct of Servius Tullius, a circum stance easily accounted for by the strict observance of the enactment of the 12 Tables which forbade intramural interment, and by the secrecy which the early Christians were compelled to observe, in resorting when alive, and conveying the remains of their brethren when dead, to these places of retirement and repose. A very erroneous explanation of the origin of these subterranean cemeteries has been long entertained, that they were originally Arenaria, or sandpits, from which the Romans extracted that peculiar variety of volcanic ashes called Arena by the ancients and Pozzolana by the moderns, so extensively used in the composition of their mortars. A more careful examination of the several catacombs now scarcely permits of attributing any portion of those used for interment to such an origin ; but on the contrary, renders evident that they were formed expressly for the purpose we now see them used, and in no way connected with the Arenaria;, except, when lying beneath these Pagan ex cavations, the latter were converted into passages leading to them, and of which we shall see a remarkable ex ample in the Catacombs of Sant' Agnese (p. 352). In order to understand the mode of excavation employed, it will not be out of place to inform our readers how the region about Rome in which the cata combs are situated is mineralogically constituted. The immediate surface of the Campagna consists of vol canic rocks, and in the part which more particularly interests us, as con nected with the catacombs, and on the 1. side of the Tiber, almost exclusively so. These volcanic rocks are, however, of different natures and ages ; the most ancient a rather compact conglomerate, called tufa lithoide by the local writers, the most ancient deposit of the Latiau volcanoes, and still extensively em ployed as building-stone ; and of inco herent dejections of ashes and scorise, which, lying on the former, constitute, with a few currents of solid lava, a great portion of the surface ofthe Campagna. It is in the second deposit, which often solidified from having been deposited under water, called ,tufa granolare, that nearly all the Catacombs have been excavated, its dry and porous nature rendering it easy of being hollowed out into galleries without artificial sup port, whilst it afforded a comparatively healthy retreat for the living who fre quented them. The pozzolana above referred to generally forms insulated deposits, rarely of considerable extent, in the tufa granulare. These volcanic deposits constitute a series of low hills intersected by valleys, so that each cemetery may be considered as an in sulated group, never crossing the inter mediate depressions or ravines.* The Catacombs consistof an immense net-work of subterranean passages or galleries, generally intersecting each other at right angles, sometimes tor tuous, more rarely diverging from a centre, as may be seen in those near S. Lorenzo fuori le Mura. These galleries vary in length and height ; in general they may be stated to be 8 ft. high by 3 to 5 ft. wide ; the roof is either horizontal or slightly vaulted, and seldom requires any other support than * The geological description of the strata in which the Catacombs are excavated, as given in Di Rossi's 'Roma Sotterranea,' is written evi dently by one little conversant with the science he professes to treat of. Sect. I. § 84. CATACOMBS. 349 its sides in the tufa in which are excavated the sepulchral loculi or graves, forming tiers above each other. These graves are irregular in size, persons of all ages being interred close to each other, as well as in depth, sometimes being destined to contain a single corpse, in other cases two or three. The average number of graves in each tier is about 5, and their length 8 ft., and when undisturbed are found closed with marble slabs or tiles, on which inscriptions and Christian em blems are often cut or painted. Besides these loculi confined to the walls of the galleries, wider spaces called Arcosolia, consisting of an arch over a grave, or a sarcophagus hollowed in the tufa, are frequent, forming a kind of small apse over the place where the body was deposited. A third class, in theshape of sepulchralchambers, surrounded with loculi and arcisolia, occur at intervals, and which have often also been con verted into family vaults and places of worship : to these the name of Cubicula has been applied. A fourth descrip tion of crypts or chapels of larger dimensions were destined for places of meeting and worship. Very exaggerated notions have been entertained as to the horizontal extent of the Catacombs, even to supposing them to reach as far as Tivoli on one side and to Ostia on the other ; from the most accurate surveys made of late years, it is now certain that most of them form insulated systems of excava tions, having an inconsiderable lateral extent and seldom communicating with each other. About sixty have been enumerated, most within a cir cle of 3 m. from the modern walls, the farthest removed being that of St. Alexander, about 6 m. on the Via Nomentana. An attempt has been made to calcu late the number of bodies deposited in these early cemeteries by that of graves which exist within a given area in those already explored ; but as the knowledge possessed of the extent of galleries in each is very incomplete, the results deduced from such calculations are unsatisfactory, amounting to little better than guess work. Padre Marchi, who had paid more attention to Christian archaeology than any modern author, supposed that each cemetery contains 100,000 graves, and, there being sixty in all, it would follow that up to the end ofthe 6th cent., after which the Christians enjoyed unrestricted liberty of worship and of interment for their dead above ground, the number deposited in the Catacombs would amount to six millions.* As to the age of the Catacombs, some date soon after St. Peter's martyrdom, but by far the greater number are subsequent to the middle of the second cent. ; they were often repaired in later times, when they became the resort of penitents and pilgrims to the tombs of the martyrs and early popes. Many of the crypts or Cubicula, originally family vaults, were sub sequently converted into places of wor ship, and may be considered as anterior to the time of Constantine : it was only after the conversion of that Emperor to Christianity that its rites were per mitted to be celebrated in public, but long afterwards, from the sanctity of the localities, these crypts continued to be resorted to for devotional purposes. It was in later times that oratories and churches were erected over the entrance of the principal cemeteries, with more convenient means of access in the form of stairs. Several of these churches have been subsequently amongst the most celebrated in and about Rome. St. Peter's was erected over the cemetery of the Vatican, St. Paul's over that of Santa Lucina, San Lorenzo over those of S. Hypolitus and S. Cyriaca, and the beautiful basilica of S. Agnese over the catacomb in which that virgin martyr was interred. Although the greater number of the Christian dead were deposited in Loculi, Arcosolia, or Cubicula, » few were placed in marble urns decorated with Christian emblems; some of these sarcophagi may be still seen in situ, * Sig. Michele di EossI calculates that the galleries of the Catacombs in the immediate vicinity of the city occupy a length of 957,800 yards (876,000 metres), or 587 geographical miles— a very small portion only of which has been explored. 350 § 34. CATACOMBS. Rome. and others in the Christian Museum at the Lateran, although it is probable that the greater number of the latter were in the churches at the entrance of the Catacombs, or in the vestibules of the basilicas subsequently erected on their sites. The history of the Christian ceme teries about Rome has occupied a good deal of attention of late years. They were for the first time most thoroughly explored by a Maltese named Bosio ; his researches being published after his death in a ponderous folio,* which contains a detailed description of most of the catacombs then known, with a few ground-plans and copies of their paintings and inscriptions. The perusal of this work will well repay those interested in Christian archseology. It is only, however, during our own times that this branch of antiquarian research has been resumed in a really scientific manner, and with the view of connecting the early Christian paintings and sculptures with the history and cere monies ofthe primitive Church : for this we are indebted in a great measure to the late Father Giuseppe Marchi, a learned Jesuit, the most accurate modern interpreter of early Christian archseology. His workf is a model of learning and diligent research ; it is to be regretted that circumstances had prevented his following it up as was intended with a description of the im mense number of inscriptions, sculp tures, paintings, &c, which exist in the Museums of the Vatican, of the Lateran, Collegio Romano, &c. A French work on a magnificent scale has been since published under the patronage of the Academie des In scriptions, and at the expense of the Imperial Government, on the Roman Catacombs, by Mr. Perret ; J it contains copies of many of the inscriptions pub lished by Bosio, and of the most re- * La Roma Sottoranea di Antonio Bosio. 1 vol. folio. Roma, 1632. t MonumentiPrimitivi delle Arti Christianc, nella Metropoll del Christianismo, designati ed illustrati, in 4°. Roma. 1844-45. The work with its 70 plates, is confined to the topography and architecture of the catacombs. j Les Catacombes de Rome, par Louis Perret. 6 vols, folio. Paris, 1852, 185:!. markable paintings discovered in them : it is to be regretted that the latter have been too artistically worked upon, to give them a degree of pre-Raphael-like beauty which does not exist on the originals, thus depriving them of much of their primitive interest and rude artistic character. Following in the steps of Padre Marchi, his pupil Cav. de' Rossi is now engaged, under the patronage of Pius IX., in preparing for publication a complete collection of all the Christian inscriptions, extending to the end of the 6th cent., amounting to upwards of 11,000.* The works of Gerbet, Gaume, Raoul, Rochette, &c, in French, of Maitland and Macfarlane in English, are compiled from Italian sources, and have small pretensions to originality. An interesting, and, as far as its limited size permitted, a useful little workf upon the Roman Cata combs has been published by the Rev. Spencer Northcote, a Roman Catholic clergyman, who has made them the sub ject of his studies during a prolonged residence at Rome; his book, by far the best abridgment we have seen on the Christian cemeteries round the Eternal City, and its museums of early * Inscriptiones Christianas TJrhis Romse sex prioribus a Christo sasculis posit*e, 1 vol. fol. of 600 pp., 1861, to be procured at Spithover's library. Cav. de' Rossi is also engaged on a move general work upon the Catacombs, under the title of 'Roma Sotteranea Cristiana, the first two volumes of which embrace the general history of the Catacombs, and the description of that of S. Callixtus. Cav. de' Rossi also publishes, though somewhat irregularly, a bimonthly journal (Bul- letino dell' Archeologia Cristiana) in which new discoveries in the Catacombs are announced. Upon the subject of the paintings at present visible in the Catacombs, there is a great exagge ration of a recent English author's statement that " they have in a very large proportion been renewed in the eighth and ninth centuries, ac cording to the fashion and ideas of that period. Many have also been renewed In the 18th century." Catalogue of a series of Photographs illustrative of the Archseology of Rome : Oxford, 1867. t The Roman Catacombs, or some Account of the Burial-places ofthe early Christians in Rome, by the Rev. J. Spencer Northcote, 1 vol. 12mo. 2nd edit. London, 1859. More recently the Rev. J. W. Burgon, of Oriel College, has inserted a series of letters on the early Christian Inscrip tions and Monuments of Rome in the ' Guardian ' newspaper from Aug. to Dec. 1860 ; since col lected in a volume entitled 'Letters from Home to Friends in England,' 1 vol. l2mo. 1862. Sect. I. § 34. CATACOMBS. 351 Christian art, will prove a conve nient manual to those who take an interest in this branch of archseology. A very interesting work has appeared on the Roman Catacombs, " Roma Sot- toranea, or some Account of the Roman Catacombs," by the Revs. J. Spencer Northcote and R. Brownlow (London, 1 vol. 8vo., 1869), in which the visitor will find the best description of them in our language ; although it purports to be the abridgment of an Italian work, it contains much general information on the early Christian Cemeteries, and will be the best guide to our country men at Rome on a subject now attract ing so much and well deserved atten tion. Cardinal Wiseman's Fabiola contains much useful information on the Cata combs, derived chiefly from Marchi and de' Rossi, mixed up with a great deal of fiction : although it cannot serve as a Guide, the elegant style of its author, and his extensive know ledge on the history of the early Church, will render its perusal interest ing after visiting the sacred localities referred to in its pages. Connected with the Catacombs, the work of Father Garucci now in progress of publication, on the minor monuments, utensils, &c, of the early Christians, and discovered for the most part in these cemeteries, will prove a valuable addition to this department of antiquarian research. The catacombs are placed under the jurisdiction of the Cardinal Vicar of Rome, assisted by a Board or Com mission of Sacred Archseology. Ex cept for those of St. Sebastian, which are at all times accessible, a, special permission to visit the others must be obtained at the Cardinal Vicar's office, No. 70, in the Via della Scrofa, where it is always very obligingly granted on application to the Secretary of His Eminence, or it may be obtained through the managers of Piale's or Spit hover's Libraries . These permissions are generally issued for the Catacombs of S. Agnese, S. Callisto, and SS. Nereo and Achilleo, the two latter being situ ated near each other; the orders are only available for Sundays. The cus- todes will in general procure the neces sary lights, for whicli a gratuity will be expected. To visit the Catacombs and Basilica of S. Alexander on the Via Nomentana a permission will also be necessary, to be obtained from the Secretary of the Propaganda College, to which the site belongs. After this general sketch of the Cata combs we shall now give a brief de scription of the most remarkable in their topographical order, entering more into detail on those best worth the stranger's notice, as we pass in re view the several localities. Commencing on the 1. bank of the Tiber: outside the Porta del Popolo, rises a ridge of hills, the Monti Parioli, which extend to the river near the Ponte Molle, being the prolongation of the Pincian ; it is chiefly composed of a freshwater deposit, in which have been excavated several cemeteries ; the most remarkable are those of Pope St. Julius before reaching the Casino di Papa Giulio, and farther on of St. Va- lentinus. There are some paintings in the latter, a Virgin and Child, and a representation of the Cross, but dating probably from as late as the 12th cent. On the opposite side of this hill are the Catacombs of SS. Gianutus and Ba- silla, Ermetes and Pamphilus, and farther on in the direction of the Via Salaria those of SS. Priscilla and Bri- gida ; in the first of these is one of the longest subterranean galleries yet discovered, and in the last, to which the entrance is from a villa, belonging to the Jesuits, on the 1. of the road, a very curious circular chapel, and a Cubiculum decorated with mosaics — of rare occurrence in the catacombs — representing Daniel in the lions' den, and the resuscitation of Lazarus. At a short distance outside the Porta Salara, beyond the Villa Albani, and entered from the Ciampi and Carcano Vineyards, is the Cemetery of Sta. Fel icita or S. Antonio ; it has 3 tiers of galleries much dilapidated. Not a trace remains of the ch. over it men tioned by William of Malmesbury. Thj Cemetery of SS. Thraso and Sa- tunoinus, which opens from the Villa Goigolanti, on the opposite side of the road, and a short way farther on, is 352 § 34. CATACOMBS — S. AGNESE. Rome. very extensive, but of difficult access. It contains numerous chambers, with the usual painted subjects. In one is an inscription, " Dormitio Silvestri " — the sleeping-place of Silvester. The last catacomb of any interest on the Via Salara is that of Santa Priscilla, near the descent towards the Anio — the entrance from the farm buildings of the Vigna Belloni, near the high road : in one of its chapels is a painting of a bishop seated, giving a veil to a female, whilst others surround her, amongst whom one holds a child in her arms, supposed to be Santa Pris cilla, with one of her daughters, Prax edes or Pudentiana, converted by St. Pius, or Santa Domitilla, by St. Cle ment; and on the vault over a grave, a group of a female with a child, in which the partisans of early Mariolatry see the Virgin and infant Christ, which they believe to date from the 2nd cen tury ; if so it would be the most ancient known representation of the Mother of our Saviour. The space which lies between the Via Salara and Via Nomentana is rich in sepulchral exca vations, the soil, a friable volcanic tufa, being well suited for the purpose. On the Via Nomentana, outside the Porta Pia, and in the precincts of the Villa Patrizzi, is the small Catacomb of S. Nicomedus, and at li m. from the gate one of the most interesting of all the early Christian cemeteries — The Catacombs of Saint Agnese. The entrance is from a vineyard on the 1., about £ m. beyond the beautiful ba silica of the same name (see p. 139). The cemetery of S. Agnese has long been celebrated for its good preserva tion, for the many paintings contained in its crypts, for its places of worship, and for its connection with an exten sive arenaria, which forms a part of it; there are two tiers of galleries, the uppermost the most ancient. Descend ing the stairs, which probably date from the time of Constantine, we find ourselves in a gallery of considerable height, the walls of which are hollowed out into loculi, all of which have been long rifled of their contents. The visitor will remark the unequal size of these graves— that several are much deeper than others, when destined to contain side by side more corpses than one. Near some may be yet seen the Cubiculi in Catacombs or S. Agnese. i '•'•e'-W i r-j— til d ! \ / / V ^t" X«J J^mehvp A, A. Gallery of Cemetery. B, C. Cubicula, or Sepulchral Chapels, opening out of it. d, d, d. Arcosolia, or Altar Sarcophagi. g, g. Ordinary Graves, or Loculi. e, e. Seats for Priests or Instructors. /, i. Projecting Ledge for moveable Paintings. Sect. I. § 34. CATACOMBS— S. AGNESE. 353 impression Of the glass vessel attached to the wall of the grave, which is sup posed to have contained the blood of a martyr. At a short distance from the entrance is a rudely-scratched inscrip tion, on the mortar closing of a grave, to a certain Abundantia and Turbantia, with the names of the Consuls of the year a.d. 336, thus fixing the age of this part of the cemetery. About 100 yds. farther on is the first cubiculum of any importance. It contains several graves, and, near the entrance from the gallery, a Sedia, or arm-chair, cut in the rock. This chamber is supposed to have served as a place of meeting for cate chumens, the seat being that ofthe in structing priest or deacon. Not far from this is a chamber for female cate chumens, devoid of all kind of orna ment, but having a seat on each side of the door, it being the rule amongst the primitive Christians that there should always be two priests or instructors, or a priest and a deaconess, present in as semblies of females. Proceeding far ther, we enter a cubiculum with a vaulted roof; the altar, as usual, is in an arcosolium,* near which in one of the corners is a credence table, cut out of the tufa rock. The whole of this chapel is covered with stucco, on which are paintings of Moses taking off his sandals before ascending to the Mount, and his striking the rock ; and over an arcosolium on the rt., the Good Shepherd,- with Daniel in the Lions' Den on one side, and the Three Children in the fiery Furnace on the other. From here turning into the neighbouring gallery, we find a cubi culum, the paintings on which are well preserved. Over the arcosolium facing the entrance we see Christ between six of the Apostles, the latter without nimbi round the head. The roof is divided into compartments in which are painted Jonas under the arbour, Moses striking the rock, Adam and Eve, and an Orante or female with uplifted arms in the act of adoration, with the Good Shepherd in the centre, * From Arcus and Solium, a sarcophagus cut in the rock. The prototype of the arched Gothic recess-tombs in our early English churches. surrounded by representations of fruits and flowers, &c. There is also in this chamber a small credence-table. One of the most interesting recesses in this catacomb is that known by the name of Cathedral or Basilica; it is not far from the entrance, but in the lower tier of galleries; it consists of 3 divisions ; the most remote, the Pres bytery, contains the episcopal chair, having low seats on each side for the priests. From the damp nature of the rock here, there are no paintings on the walls or vault, but on a projecting cornice are supposed to have stood moveable pictures during the celebra tion of the sacred rites, and two niches, possibly for small statues, and on the opposite side of the gallery a smaller cubiculum, also with columns, dividing it into 2 portions ; it is supposed to have been destined for females, whilst the male portion of the congregation re sorted to the larger basilica. The visitor who can afford time will do well before leaving this catacomb to examine the arenaria or pits from which pozzolana was extracted before the excavation of the cemetery. They are at its farthest extremity, nearly under where the basilica of S. Agnese stands, and consist of a series of large gloomy caverns, very different in form from the sepulchral galleries. They appear to have been made use of as a vestibule to the latter, as stairs lead from them into the sepulchral gal leries, and a deep excavated shaft, by which the corpses were probably lowered to their last resting places. It would exceed the limits of a work like this to describe even a tenth part of the particularities of this cemetery ; but there is one which no visitor ought to omit to see. From a painting in it, it is generally known as the crypt or chapel of the Virgin ; it is in the lower tier of galleries, and not far from the entrance to the catacomb ; it consists of a square cubiculum approached by a flight of steps, and preceded by an oblong vestibule ; at the farthest ex tremity is an altar under an arcoso lium, over which is a painting — which unfortunately has been mutilated by a grave being cut through it in more 354 § 34. CATACOMBS — S. AGNESE. Rome. recent times — of a female with out stretched arms, as an Orante or in the attitude of praying, with a boy in front, supposed to represent the Virgin and the youthful Saviour ; whilst on either side is the labarum or mono gram of Constantine, which shows that it is at least not older than the 4th cent. The absence of the aureola of glory, or nimbus, would indicate that it was anterior to the middle of the 5th cent., when that ornament ap pears to have been first introduced. On the arch above is a figure of our Saviour with others in adoration on either side. In the lowest tier of galleries, and not far from the chapel of the Virgin, is a well-preserved chamber, called the Baptistery : from a spring running through it, it has been supposed to have been used in the baptismal rites ; in its corners are rude imitations of columns, cut in the tufa rock, and on one side a deep niche, probably to contain the sa cred vessels; theroof being covered with stalactite, all the paintings have been lost. In passing through the sepulchral galleries it will be seen that, although most of the graves had been opened, there are several still intact, some of which bear inscriptions either cut on the slabs of marble, or painted on the tiles, by which they are closed ; on some are roughly scratched, upon the closing cement, Christian emblems; amongst others, rude representations of a palm-branch, supposed to mark the resting-place of those who suffered martyrdom ; on others, impressions of coins, more rarely of glass vases, and often names. The visitor will also re mark that the numerous chambers used for worship are for the most part in pairs in this cemetery, that is, that two open opposite to each other, out of the sepulchral gallery, as is shown in the annexed woodcut, in which A represents this gallery ; B C the altar cubicula ; d the arcosolia behind the altars ; e e seats for instructors or priests cut in the tufa ; / / ledges near the entrance, on which are supposed to have been placed move able paintings ; g g loculi or graves cut subsequently in the walls of the cubi culum. The smaller cubiculum C is supposed to have been destined for females. No inscription has been found in this cemetery of an earlier date than the end of the 2nd cent. ; indeed, the greater part of it may be referred to the 3rd and 4th ; it does not appear to have been much used at a later period. Resuming our topographical survey, about 4 m. beyond S. Agnese, and close to the Via Nomentana, is that of S. Alessandro, over which has been dis covered of late years the basilica dedi cated to that pontiff of the 2nd cent., and which will be more fully noticed in our excursions from Rome (see p. 428). On each side of the Via Tiburtina, and before reaching the Anio, are several cemeteries, especially near the basilica of San Lorenzo, which is placed over that of Santa Cyriaca : the late exca vations behind this ch. for enlarging the adjoining Cemetery have laid open several of its sepulchral galleries (see p. 138). On the opposite side of the road is the Cat. of St. Hypolitus. The most remarkable cemeteries on the Via Labicana, which follows, are those of S. Castulus, 1 m. outside the Porta Maggiore, of SS. Peter and Mar cellinus, and of St. Helena, noticed in our description of the tomb of that empress (p. 72) at Torre Pignattarra. The catacomb of SS. Peter and Marcel linus is remarkable for some of its paintings — an Agape, or Love Feast ; the Virgin receiving the Offerings of two of the Magi ; Christ between S. Peter and S. Paul, and below, 4 saints buried here — Petrus (not the Apostle), Gorgonius, Marcellinus, and Tibur- tius, and four streams issuing from be neath a mound, on which stands the mystic lamb ; over one is written the word jobdas; the entrance to this cemetery is from the ch., that of S. Helena from the Vigna del Grande, a little farther on. The vicinity of the Via Latina is rich in catacombs; 1 m. beyond the Au relian wall is that of Santa Eugenia ; and at the 2nd milestone beyond the Porta Maggiore, where the ancient road is intersected by the modern one to Albano, is the cemetery of i Santi Quattro, on the 1., near the recent excavations which have led, amongst Sect. I. § 34. CATACOMBS — S. CALLIXTUS. 355 other discoveries, to that of the basilica of St. Stephen, erected by St. Leo I. in the 5th cent, (see p. 406). The other catacombs on the Via Latina are those of Aproniauus, Gordianus, Tertullinus, &c. But of all the roads leading out of Rome there is none near 'which we meet with more interesting Christian excavations than along the Via Appia, and its neighbouring em branchment the Via Ardeatina, the most celebrated of which are those of S. Callixtus and S. Pretextatus on the former, and SS. Nefeus and Achilleus on the latter, and which now, being easy of access, can be visited with great facility. The Catacombs of S. Callixtus, which have acquired an historical interest from the recent discoveries of the sepulchral inscriptions of some of the early popes, are situated beneath that triangular space which separates the Via Appia from the Via Ardeatina or Strada della Madonna del Divino Amore, and which in classical time was occu pied by the Campus of the Divus Rediculus (p. 38), and at present by the Vigna Amendola ; the entrance to them is near where stood the second Milliarium on the Via Appia, and is easily found by a marble tablet having the name engraved over the door lead ing into the vineyard. As well as those of SS. Nereus and Achilleus, they are only open to visitors on Sunday, and who must be provided with a permission from the Cardinal Vicar. The Ceme tery of S. Callixtus, long confounded with that beneath the basilica of St. Sebastian, appears to be distinct from the latter; it is very extensive and has been only partially examined ; its most curious portions being in the ^imme diate vicinity of the entrance. As this catacomb is one of the most interesting and frequently visited, we have an nexed a ground-plan of its very im portant portion. Descending by a flight of ancient steps (A), which date from a period subsequent to Constan tine, and near which stood a ch., in which Pope Damasus and his family were buried (some fragments of the walls may be seen in the neighbouring farm-buildings), we arrive in a kind of open space or- vestibule (B) sur rounded with loculi or graves, and re markable for the numerous inscriptions (a a) scratched on its stuccoed walls by devotees and pilgrims who had come here to visit the resting-places of the saints whose remains lay in the neighbouring chambers. They consist chiefly in invocations to these saints and martyrs, mostly written in a very bar barous style. From here, after passing a sepulchral cubiculum (F), a narrow gallery brings us to the sepulchral Chamber (C) of the Popes, in which were deposited, as shown by their inscriptions in Greek characters (6 66 5), the bodies of Eutychianus, a.d. 275 ; of Anterus, a.d. 235 ; of Fabianus, a.d. 236 ; and of Lucius, a.d. 232. To the names of the two latter are added the designations of epis and martyr. Some of the graves remain without inscriptions ; there is reason to suppose that S. Urbanus, a.d. 223, lay in one of them, as well as S. Sixtus, martyr ized in the neighbouring cemetery of Pretextatus. At the end of this crypt is supposed to have been laid Pope S. Six tus IL, who suffered martyrdom under Valerian (a.d. 258). Where stood the altar (a) is an inscription composed by Pope Damasus, who died in a.d. 384, engraved in the peculiar beautiful cha racters which we see in the numerous inscriptions set up in the different cata combs by that pontiff ; it is interesting as alluding to the popes buried here, ending with a wish to be laid near them himself, but which, in his humility and respect, he dared not aspire to : — ¦ " Hie fateor Damasus volui mia coxdere Membra Sed cineres timeo sakctos vexare Piorum.'" Round this cubiculum are fragments of torse marble columns, with Corinth ian capitals, the base of one served probably to support a credence-table, and fragments of a sarcophagus of a later period. Opening out of the cu biculum of the popes, we reach by a narrow passage a larger crypt (G) of an irregular form, called the Cubi culum of St. Coecilia, in which, under a wide arcosolium, is a sarcophagus (a) 356 § 34. CATACOMBS— S. CALLIXTUS. Rome. Geound Plan of the pab-t of the Catacombs of St. Callixtus containing the Papal Cbtpt. A. Entrance. B. Vestibule with scratched Inscriptions. C. Chapel of the Popes. a. Altar. c. Inscription of P. Damasus. b. Graves of the Popes. D. Stairs leading to Gallery with cut in the tufa, in which the body of that saint was deposited by Urbanus, after her martyrdom, and which it is known was removed by that general plunderer of the catacombs, Paschal I., to her ch. in the Trastevere, where it now lies (p. 150) under the beautiful statue by Stefano Maderno. On the side of this arcosolium are some cu rious paintings — one of our Saviour, in a, circular recess (6), the head sur rounded by a nimbus, where burned a lamp at the tomb of the mar- F, F, F, F, Cubicula, or Sepulchral Chapels with Arcosolia, a, a, a, a. G. Cubiculum of Sta. Caxilia. a. Arcosolium. b. Portrait of Christ. c. Paintings of SS. Urbanus and Cfficilia. H. Gallery leading to the Cubiculum of S. Cornelius. tyr ; on the adjoining wall (c) a full- length figure of St. Urbanus with his name, and above, of a Roman lady in rich attire, most probably intended to represent St. Csecilia. These paint ings are now supposed not to be an terior to the 7th centy. From here we may explore numerous long galleries : out of that marked E E in the plan open several cubicula (F F), interesting for their paintings, chiefly referable to Baptism and the Eucharist, the fish being the principal emblem of the Sect. I. § 34. CATACOMBS — S. CALLIXTUS. 357 latter. "In one of these crypts is a painting of four male figures with uplifted hands, each with their names, placed over an arcosolium ; in another are representations of peacocks, the emblems of immortality ; in a third, Moses striking the rock, and as cending to the Mount ; in a fourth, a Grave-digger (Fossor) surrounded with the implements of his trade ; in a fifth, the Good Shepherd, with the miracle of the paralytic taking up his bed ; in a sixth, a Banquet of 7 persons, supposed to be the seven disciples allud ed to in the 21st chap, ofthe Gospel of S. John. These paintings, as well as the greater part of the Catacomb, are referred to the last half of the 3rd cent. In a more distant cubiculum is a mas sive cover of a sarcophagus in marble, with sculptures at the angles of the Good Shepherd sitting under a palm- tree, on which stands a cock : the urn to which it belonged has not been dis covered, but is supposed to have con tained the body of Pope Melchiades (a.d. 313) ; the cover is roofed-shaped, not unlike one lately discovered in the paiuted tomb at the second mile on the Via Latina (see p. 78). In this cubi culum is a low seat or bench, with two higher ones, destined probably for catechumens and their instructors. In a seventh is a deep altar recess sur mounted by an arch with rude mo saics, a branch of art of rare occurrence in the catacombs. Recently in another crypt have been discovered three large sarcophagi in marble, containing the bodies, which have been preserved under glass. The urns are of a good period of Christian art, probably ofthe 4th cent. One with masks at the angles of the cover has a bas-relief of a female in adoration (Orante), with a venerable bearded figure on either side ; in this group some archaeolo gists pretend to recognise the Virgin with SS. Peter and Paul. The second urn has a figure of the Good Shep herd, with the wave ornamentation of the pagan sarcophagi of the 3rd and 4th cent.: the space for the name of the deceased had never been filled up. On the third sarcophagus are early Christian reliefs of th,e often-repeated subjects — the resuscitation of Lazarus, Adam and Eve and the serpent, the miracle of the paralytic. The last chambers we shall notice are a large circular one without any paintings, out of which open 4 cubicula filled with graves — it is generally known as the Rotonda ; and not far from it one that contains a curious memorial of Pope Damasus, a long inscription in verse in honour of S. Eusebius, but which is the more interesting as having the name of the person who cut it in two vertical lines, a certain Furius Dyonisius Filocalus ; it is engraved on a slab of marble which had served at an earlier period for a very different purpose, a laudatory inscription to Caracalla by M. Asinius Sabinianus. The inscription of Pope Damasus is curious from its reference to the Heresy of Heraclius, during which Eusebius, who is designated simply as Rector, became a voluntary exile, re tiring to Sicily, where he died. In the part of the cemetery nearest to the Via Appia, and which formed a separate one in earlier times, and the examination of which generally con cludes the visitor's tour over the Ca tacomb of S. Callixtus, is the Chapel or Cubiculum of St. Cornelius : it is in the form of a square chamber, having over what constituted the altar a wide grave or hculus, from which the body of the saint was removed to Germany. This pope, who lived in the middle of the 3rd cent., suffered martyrdom at Civita Vecchia. Fragments of an inscription, with the letters se and livs martve, were discovered near the sur face during the first excavations here. and at a later period, built into an adjoining wall, the fragment wanting to complete it as now seen — Cornelius Martyr Ep. On the side walls are rude paintings of SS. Cornelius and Cyprian : the latter saint was not buried here, but his feast was cele brated on the same day. Before the cubiculum is a stumpy pillar, on which stood a lamp that was kept constantly burning before the shrine, the oil from which was sent as a most precious gift, in th.e middle ages, to sovereigns, ass 358 § 34. CATACOMBS — S. CALLIXTUS. Rome. we see in the list of the relics bestowed by St. Gregory on Theodolinda, and be queathed by her to the Cathedral of Monza (Handbook for N. Italy), where it is designated as Ex Oleo Sancti Cornelii. On the adjoining wall are rude paint ings of S. Sixtus, who suffered mar tyrdom in this cemetery in a.d. 128, and a mutilated Damasiau inscription. Before leaving the cemetery of St. Cornelius, the visitor will do well to examine two chambers beyond the Al tar of the Martyr, in one of which are paintings of the Good Shepherd and other early Christian emblems ; and afterwards to descend into the lower tier of galleries by the fine stairs, which traverse 3 tiers of these subterranean passages. In the lower or fourth story are several undisturbed loculi: on the marble slab closing one is the name of Rufina in Greek letters, and on another a Greek Cross beneath the name of the occupant. It is probable that the paint ings in the upper part of this Cata comb date from the 2nd centy. ; those at a lower level being of a later period, it being the custom of the early Christ ians to commence their excavations near the surface, and to extend them downward as the upper galleries be came filled with corpses. The cemetery of S. Callixtus is of considerable extent, and consists of two higher tiers of galleries, with three intermediate lower ones or entresols: they are in general fiat on the roof, and several are lighted by vertical shafts or luminaria, narrowing towards the surface, and funnel-shaped down wards, one illuminating at the same time two or more crypts. It appears to have been in ancient times one of those most resorted by pilgrims, and to have been considered with very par ticular devotion by the early Christians. Amongst these pilgrims, two from the diocese of Salzburg have left a very interesting diary of their visit to this catacomb in the 8th centy., which has guided Cav. de' Rossi in his curious researches on the sepulchres of the early popes. In the Vigna N. of that in which is situated the opening to that of St. Callixtus, Cav. de' Rossi has redis covered in 1867 another historical Catacomb, that of Santa Balbina, which will probably afford many interesting relics. No excavations have been yet undertaken in it. On the opposite side of the Via Appia, from the Catacomb of St. Cal lixtus, in the vineyard behind the Casale delle Pupazze, is one of the en trances to the Catacomb of Pretextatus, the 2nd great Christian cemetery on the Appian ; it is of considerable ex tent, forming the 1. side of the road leading to the ch. of S. TJrbano, and is celebrated in the history of the Martyrs, under the names of Pre textatus and Januarius, as that of Callixtus, of S. Callisti ad Sextum. Hitherto it has been little examined, but it offers the unique example of a large square crypt, covered with some of the finest early Christian paintings and arabesques, representing foliage and birds, and consists of brick, with a large luminare at the intersection of its arches. From some inscriptions it appears to date from the end of the 4th centy., and to have contained the re mains of SS. Januarius, Agapetns, and Felicissimus, deacons of Pope S. Sextus, who suffered martyrdom here in a.d. 162. In later times 2 churches dedicated to SS. Tiburtius, Valerian, and Maximus, companions in martyr dom of Sta. Csecilia, were built over it. Excavations are now progressing with every prospect of interestingdiscoveries being made. In another part of this catacomb, but which appears entirely distinct, and separated from the Chris tian portion, some Mithraic paintings and inscriptions exist over 3 of its arcosolia. These paintings have been the objectof much controversy amongst writers on Christian archseology. The 3rd great Christian cemetery on the Via Appia is that of the Catacombs, properly so called, under the church of S. Sebastian, and which are noticed at p. 197. Beyond the catacomb of Pretextatus, but separated from it by a cross-road that leads from the Appian to the ch. of Sant' Urbano, is the Vigna Ran- danini, in which was discovered in Sect. I. § 34. JEWISH CATACOMB. 359 1859 a *wish subterranean cemetery. The entrance to this Vigna is nearly opposite to the ch. of S. Sebastian. , Jewish Catacomb. — There are 2 open ings by which access can be had to this cemetery ; the principal one, abut ting to the road leading to S. Urbano, consists of an oblong atrium; the other by a flight of steps from near the Casale of the Vigna. The first is to be preferred. Here we descend into an oblong chamber open to the sky, but originally vaulted over, the floor being of white and black mosaic, the walls in opus reticulatum* but subse quently cased over, and arcosolia pierced or built in it. There is every reason to suppose that this chamber formed a, part of a pagan dwelling, added by the Jews to their 'cemetery at a time when this mode of interment was no longer forbidden by the Roman authorities. From this atrium, in which remains of a richly-decorated marble sarcophagus, with Jewish symbols, was found, and several graves sunk in the floor, a door opens into the purely subterranean portion of the catacomb, by a square chamber, in which are remains of a well, and of several graves and sarcophagi sunk in the floor. From this a low door leads into one of the principal galleries, out of which open 6 square chambers or cubicula, one of which is very remark able from the paintings of the seven- branched candelabrum on the roof and walls, and for a large white marble sarcophagus ¦ sunk beneath the floor, the bas-reliefs and other sculptures on which were gilt. This sarcophagus resembles in its style those of the 4th centy. Along the gallery are numerous loculi or graves, some with the seven- branch candelabrum scratched on the mortar with which they are closed. A lateral passage leads to several other * This species of construction, described by Vltruvius, consists of a facing, on an ordinary stone or brick wall, formed of prisms of volcanic tufa, arranged obliquely so as to resemble a net-work. It appears to have been in use from the time of Sylia, and to have been used until the reign of Hadrian. It resembles vertically the modern pavement of the city, the prisms being generally of tuffa, seldom of lava as in the latter. square chambers, and to a large irre gular open space, which has all the appearance of a real arenaria, or sandpit, as we have seen in the cata comb of S. Agnese (p. 352). A tor tuous passage forms the continuation of the principal gallery, beyond which are several of those graves called Cocim by Rabbinical writers. They are sunk in the floor of the gallery, and at right angles with its direction. These cocim consist, like those in the atrium at the entrance, of several tiers of cells placed one above the other, each capable of holding a corpse. Farther on still is a very curious double cubiculum, remarkable for the paintings on the roof and walls of human figures, a female with a cornu copia, a winged Victory with a palm or wreath, genii, symbolsof the seasons, birds, fruit, a caduceus, &c, but with out a trace of Jewish emblems. Near here is the minor entrance to the cata comb, which opens towards the Via Appia, near the Casale of the Vineyard. It is preceded by an oblong atrium, round which are raised benches or seats, probably for the persons who attended the dead to their last resting- places. The inscriptions on marble slabs that have been discovered amount to nearly 200. Not one of a Pagan or Christian character has been hitherto met with : about two- thirds are in Greek letters, although generally ex pressing Latin words ; the remainder in Latin. When they refer to the oc cupations of the deceased, it is always to functionaries of the synagogue, such as rulers (apx<""r€s)> scribes (ypa^- narei), &c. ; and many proper names unmistakably Hebraic, as all the em blems are — the seven-branched candel abrum, the lulab, &c. Not a single trace of the Hebrew character has yet turned up ; only one gives a clue to a date, and this of the Consulate of Avienus in a.d. 502. From the vast quantity of marble fragments, it is evident that this catacomb had been rifled of its valuable contents, and at repeated periods. Most of the inscrip tions were displaced: they are now 360 § 34. CATACOMBS — SS. NEREUS AND ACHILLEUS. Rome. fixed on the sides of the galleries near the places where they were dug up. The absence of every Christian emblem, the numerous representations of undoubted Hebrew symbols met with, and the designation of the offices in the synagogue, show that this ceme tery belonged exclusively to the Jews, and who we know inhabited in con siderable numbers the nearest quarter of Rome about the Porta Capena and the Valley of Egeria, as noticed by Juvenal in speaking of the journey with his friend Umbricius : — Nunc sacri fontis Nemus, et delubra locantur Judeis. — Sat. iii. A small Hebrew Catacomb has been recently discovered in the Vigna Cu- narro, behind the ch. of St. Sebastian, in the angular space between the Via Ardeatina and the road leading to it from opposite the Circus of Maxentius. It is probably more ancient than that of the Vigna Randanini. The inscrip tions, which are in Greek characters, are all relative to officers in the syna gogue, the emblems purely Jewish. The only other Jewish cemetery dis covered about Rome was on the side of the hill outside the Porta Portese : it was explored by Bosio, but all trace of it has been lost. It was also near a Hebrew quarter, the Jews during the first two centuries of our era having inhabited the Transtiberine quarter of the Eternal City. In another part of the Vigna Ran danini, a large Pagan Columbarium has been opened ; it resembles other sepulchral monuments of this class. From the inscriptions found over the cinerary urns, it dates from the early period of the Empire — the most in teresting belonging to Liberti of mem bers of the Junii Silani, a celebrated senatorial family. Not far from the modern entrance to this Catacomb has been discovered the entrance to a smaller one, which appears to be entirely detached from it. It is excavated in the declivity of a rising ground, preceded by a hand some atrium or vestibule in Opus Laterizatum, and which Cav. di Rossi supposes to have been the original Cemetery of Domitilla. It opens into a gallery having chambers on either side, in which were originally sepul chral urns, all of which have dis appeared, and on the walls of which are paintings in an excellent style, re presenting urns, foliage, and human figures, in the style of those dis covered in the Villa of Livia on the Via Flaminia (see p. 440). There are few Loculi excavated in the walls. The same learned authority supposes this portion of the cemetery to be of a very early period; Cav. di Rossi has arrived at the conclusion that the earliest mode of Christian burial was in sarcophagi placed in detached chambers, as in the Jewish ceme tery (p. 359), and that the Loculi or narrow niches cut in the tufa rock were of a later time. Adjoining the Atrium is a smaller chamber over a well-mouth, and on the other side a large edifice in tufa construction lead ing to galleries pierced with the ordi nary Loculi of the 3rd centy. It is probable that the vestibule of the cemetery of Domitilla was a schola or place of meeting used during the sepulchral ceremonies. Catacombs of Saints Nereus and Achilleus, situated at a short distance from those of St. Callixtus, on the rt. of the Via Ardeatina, the entrance being close to the farm-buildings of Tor Marancia, where stood in Imperial times a rich Roman villa, probably of Flavia Domitilla, who lived in the reign of Commodus ; during the ex cavation of whicli in 1827 by the Duchess of Chablais several works of art now in the Vatican Museum were discovered here (p. 225). The most ancient part of this cemetery appears to date from the reign of Trajan, and to have contained the remains of SS. Nereus and Achilleus, and of Petronilla, a Roman lady of the family of the Aurelii, by some erroneously supposed to have been a child of St. Peter's, from his desig nating her as his daughter in piety. Flavia Domitilla, who opened this cemetery, is supposed to have been tlie daughter or piece of Flavius. Sect. I. § 34. CATACOMBS — SS. NEREUS AND ACHILLEUS. 361 Clemejps, the first member of the Imperial family who suffered mar tyrdom. Domitilla afterwards retired to the islaud of Ponza, but returned during the reign of Trajan, bringing with her the remains of her servants Nereus and Achilleus, which she depo sited here. Such is the accouut given by ecclesiastical writers ; if true, this would be the most ancient Christian cemetery about Rome, and which is in some degree confirmed by the good style of its paintings, and of the masonry of the vestibule in the best form of Roman brickwork. It con sists of two principal tiers of gal leries with as many lower and inter mediate ones, a great part of which date from the 2nd cent. The entrance is from a handsome vestibule lately erected, in which we see some Christian inscrip tions, and a marble sarcophagus found in a cemetery on the surface. From here we descend by a wide flight of steps into the galleries of the upper tier. These stairs are ancient, and the requent walling of the galleries, many parts of which were widened subse quently to their original excavation, is attributed to Pope John I. in the 6th cent., in order to render the entrance more easy to the numerous devotees who resorted to the tombs of the mar tyrs. Near the bottom of the stairs is a chamber ornamented with Christian emblems and arabesque ornaments, in which it is supposed Santa Petronilla was interred. One of the peculiarities of this cemetery is a very large Lumi- nare, which served to light one of the extensive sepulchral chambers on the lower tier, the floor of which is paved with marble slabs. Near to here was discovered a curious inscription to a certain Quintus Corelius, who was Pre fect of Rome, and died in the reign of Tiberius ; it is in handsome letters, but appears never to have been used for its intended purpose, perhaps from containing some errors of Latin ; it was subsequently employed to close a Christian grave. It would be beyond our limits to notice even a tithe of the interesting objects here ; we shall, therefore, only point to a few of the most remarkable. On the lower tier a [Rome.] circular chapel, or rather two semicir cular apses, with a narrow intermediate gallery, on one of which is a painting of Christ, represented as a young man in the midst of the twelve Apostles. On the floor is a vessel containing scrolls of papyri; the seated figure on the rt. of the Saviour is considered to be St. Paul, that on the 1. St. Peter. In the opposite apse is a representation of the Good Shepherd. In another chamber is an inscription to a certain M. A. Resti- tutus, and to his family fidentibus in domino, and in which the cubiculum is designated as an Hypogeum. In a third a representation of Orpheus, one of the few Pagan personages in troduced into the Christian paintings, as symbolical of the charm of the word of God over barbarous nations. The painting of Elijah ascending to heaven from his chariot is not unlike the bas-relief of the same subject in the Lateran Museum, but, by a strange oversight of the artist, Mercury is represented at the horses' heads, which can be best explained by his having copied a pagan design. At each cor ner of this chamber are pilasters cut out in the tufa, covered with stucco, which had been painted; the painting on the vault has been supposed by Bosio and others to represent Christ. Not far from here, and on the walls of the gal lery over an ordinary grave, is a curious representation ofthe Virgin and Child, to whom 4 of the Wise Men are bearing gifts, 2 on each side : it is supposed to date from the end ofthe 2nd cent. ; if so, to be the most ancient representation of the Mother of Christ; much im portance has therefore been attached to this painting by the advocates of early Mariolatry. The reader will re mark that 4 Magi are here repre sented, contrary to the generally sup posed number 3 ; but as we have seen in the Museum of the Lateran, the number differs in the early Christian paintings and bas-reliefs, although that of 3 * is the most general. The visitor will observe how frequently * The earliest written authority for this number is S. Leo the Grc:it, in the middle of 1h 5th century, allhough earlier Christian sculp tures represent 2, 3, and 4. It 362 § 34. CATACOMBS. Romei Greek inscriptions occur in this cata comb, and, what is singular, the fre quent employment of Greek letters in the spelling Latin words. The ceme tery of SS. Nereus and Achilleus was very carefully examined by Bosio, who spent a long time in it, and who, having lost his way in its labyrinths, describes the precautions he took to avoid a repe tition of such an occurrence. In some of the chambers may be still seen his name written on the walls, as well as that of d'Agincourt, who was also an indefatigable explorer of the Roman cemeteries. These Catacombs are ex cavated in the most recent volcanic deposits of the Campagna, which here is very abundant in crystals of de composed leucite. In some parts of the lower galleries may be seen pro jections of the older red lithoid tufa, similar to that ofthe Tarpeian rock. In the space between the Via Ardea tina and the Via Ostiensis are numerous Christian excavations: the two most re markable, of Sta. Lucina, or, according to De' Kossi, of Sta. Commodilla, over which stands the Basilica of St. Paul's, and where the remains of the apostle were deposited after his martyrdom ; farther on, near the Ponticello di S. Paolo, is another cemetery ; and still farther that of SS. Zeno and Anastasius ad Aquas Salvias, over which are the churches of le Tre Fontane, noticed in our description of those edifices (p. 187). There are few of the catacombs on the rt. bank of the Tiber of much in terest for their extent, their monuments, or associations, if we except those ofthe Vatican. This was owing to the smaller amount of population in the Transti- berine district in ancient times ; and to the geological nature of the soil, com posed of marine marls, sands, and gravel, much less adapted for the pur poses of excavation and of interment than the light, porous, and consistent volcanic tufa which forms the greater part of the Campagna on the opposite bank of the river. On the rt. side of the Via Ostiensis, and at a short dis tance beyond the modern Porta Por- tese, is the Cemetery of St. Pontiauus, excavated for the most part in the gravel-beds ; it is chiefly remarkable as containing what has been supposed to be a Christian baptistery, from a stream of water running through it, the channel of which had been di verted into a reservoir to form a font. Behind the latter is painted on the wall a cross with flowers and leaves, and two candlesticks. On the arch over the font is a representation of the Baptism in the Jordan, pro bably of the 6th cent. The ceme tery of Abden and Semen appears to form a portion of that of Pontianus ; those of St. Julius, and of Santa Generosa, on the same road, are dis tinct excavations. Farther on, and high above the road, and here in the volcanic tufa, is the cemetery of Santa Passera, of inconsiderable extent ; be yond the Porta di San Pancrazio, the ancient Porta Aurelia, stands the church of S. Pancrazio (p. 187) ; over the cemetery of Calepodius, and on the side of the Via Aurelia, a few hundred yards beyond the new en trance to the Villa Pamfili-Doria, that of S. Agata. It is well known that a cemetery existed at the foot of the hill of the Vatican, which acquired great celebrity as the place where St. Peter's remains were deposited after his crucifixion on the neighbouring height of S. Pietro in Montorio, and over which Constantine at the com mencement of the 4th cent, erected the basilica in his honour which has since become the most magnificent edifice of the Christian world. The cemetery of the Vatican is over a more an cient one, the latter offering an almost unique example of being excavated in the marly strata ; it must therefore have been of very inconsiderable ex tent. On the Via Triumphalis, near the Monte Mario, there are some se pulchral excavations, but it is doubt ful if they are Christian. Descending along the Tiber, and near the 5th mile on the ancient Via Campana, in the Monte delle Piche, is a small catacomb of some interest, beneath the site of the Sacred Wood of the Fratres Arvales. It bore the name of Sania Generosa ad Sextum Philipps, and has some celebrity as the Sect. I. § 35. SIGHTS OF ROME LOCALLY ARRANGED. last fasting-place of the Martyrs Sim- plicius, Fondanus, and Beatrix, who suffered in the reign of Diocletian, by being hurled from the Pons Lapideus. In one of the vaults is a painting of our Saviour, giving the benediction in the Greek manner, surrounded by Saiuts ; it may date from the fith or 7th cen tury (for description of the site of the F. Arvales, see p. 445). 363 § 35. Plan for visiting the Sights of Rome in 8 Days, according to Local Arrangement. To furnish to the traveller a greater facility for exploring the Mirabilia of Rome, we shall conclude our descrip tion of them by arranging the differ ent objects in topographical order. We have already alluded to the dis advantages of a work written on this plan, and pointed out the objections to the attempt to lionize Rome in a given number of days, on the prin ciple laid down in certain guide books. Upon these points the tra veller will no doubt form his own judgment independently of books. By describing the monuments of Rome on a classified system, we have en abled him to select those that may most interest him ; and by now sup plying a topographical index, with references to the pages where each is noticed, he will be able to portion them off into districts, and visit them according to his own convenience, and to the time at his disposal. I. Porta del Popolo to the Capitol. PAGE Porta del Popolo and Piazza 5 Obelisk 92 Cn. of S. Maria del Popolo 179 Hospital of S. Giacomo 318 Ch. of S.Carlo in Corso .,. . . .149 Pal. Euspoli " . . . 303 Ch. of S. Lorenzo in Lucina 166 Pal. Chigi , 2S9 Piazza Colonna and the Antonine Column (Col. of Marcus Aurelius) ... .56 Curia Innocenziana 294 Obelisk 93 Piazza di Pietra (Forum of Antoninus Pius) 27 Temple of Neptune (Custom-house) . . . 42 Pal. Sciarra ... ...... 303 TAGE Ch. of S. Ignazio 165 Collegio Romano 309 Ch. ol S. Marcello 161 Ch. of S. Maria in Via Lata 183 Pal. Doria . . 295 Pal. Bonaparte 287 Piazza and Pal. di Venezia .... 307 Pal. Torlonia 307 Ch. of S.Marco 168 Tomb of Bibulus 69 Tomb of the Claudian Family ... 69 Pal. Altieri 282 Ch. of ilGesti 162 II. Tlie Capitol to the Lateran. Capitoline Hill .... . . . , Piazza . . . Fountain Palace of Senator View from the Tower ... . . . Pal. of the Conservators Gallery of Pictures Museum Ch. of S. Maria di Ara Coeli Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus . . . . Tarpeian Rock ... . . Mamertine Prisons Roman Forum Tabularium Milliarium Aureum Clivus Capitolinus . . . . . . Ancient Rostra Temple of Saturn Temple of Vespasian ... Temple of Concord. . . . . Arch of Septimius Severus Column of Phocas . . Basilica Julia ... .... Forum of Julius Caesar . ... Academy of St. Luke Ch. of S. Martina Basilica iEmilia (Ch. of S. Adriano) . . . Temple of Minerva Chalcidica . . Cm-ia Julia Ch. of S. Teodoro Via Sacra Temple of Antoninus and Faustina . . . Temple of Remus (Ch. of S. Cosma e Da miano) . . 45, Basilica of Constantine .... Ch. of S. Francesca Romana Arch of Titus Palatine Hill Palace ofthe Cffisars Villa Palatina . . ¦ Temple of Venus and Rome .... Coliseum . . . . .... Meta Sudans. ... Arch of Constantine GellanHill Ch. of S. Gregorio Ch. and Convent of S. Giovanni e Paolo Arch of Dolabella , Ch. of S. Maria della Navicella . Villa Mattei Ch. of S. Stefano Rotondo . ... Cb. of i Santi Quattro . . . Ch. of S. Clemente E 2 13 257 97 255 11 25?262 263 170 40 848521 2123 24 24 , 46 4837615724 27 313 1S4 244125 200 2530 15S 35 161 61 13 273347 5053 58 13 164 163 59 177 315 199 194151 364 § 35. SIGHTS OF ROME LOCALLY ARRANGED. Rome. III. The Lateran to the Quirinal. PAGE Villa Massimo 345 Obelisk ofthe Lateran 92 Basilica of the Lateran 122 Baptistery .126 Lateran Palace and Museums .... 272 Scala Santa 128 Gate of S. Giovanni ... . . 7 Porta Asinaria 7 Basilica of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme . 160 Temple of Venus and Cupid 47 Amphitbeatrum Castrense ... .54 Porta Maggiore . . . . . 7 Aqueducts 81 Tomb of the Baker Eurysaces . . .69 Temple of Minerva Medica 41 Columbarium of Lucius Arruntius ... 80 Trophies of Marius . ... . .89 Ch. of S. Bibiana . .... 148 Porta S. Lorenzo 7 Basilica of S. Lorenzo .... .135 Arch of Gallienus .... . . 60 Ch. of S. Antonio Abate .... 145 Ch. of S. Prassede 191 Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore. . . 128 Obelisk . . . -> 91 Cb. of S. Pudentiana 193 Ch. of S. Martino at Monti 184 Ch. of S. Pietro in Vincoli .... 189 Vicus Sceleratus 191 Baths of Titus, 65 Sette Sale 67 Tor de' Conti 95 Forum Transitorlum ....... 26 Forum of Augustus 26 Temple of Mars Ultor 40 Portico of Pallas Minerva 41 Forum of Trajan 26 Trajan's Column 57 Ch. of S. Maria di Loreto 174 Colonna Palace and Gardens . . : . 289 Temple of the Sun 46 Ch. of SS. Apostoli 146 Pal. Odescalchi 302 Pal. Muti-Papazurri Savorelli . . . .302 IV. Tlie Quirinal to the Mausoleum of Augustus. Quirinal Palace and Gardens 279 Monte Cavallo and Obelisk . . . . 93 Fountain .... 97 Pal. della Consulta 292 Pal. Rospigliosi . . . ... 302 Baths of Constantine 64 Ch. of Silvestro 198 Ch. of SS. Domenico e Sisto . 161 Ch. of S. Agata de' Gotl 139 Torre delle Mlllzie 95 Temple of Quirinus .... . . 45 Ch. ofS. Vitale 202 Ch. of S. Andrea al Qulrinalo .... 144 Fontana de' Termini 97 Ch. of San Bernardo 148 Baths of Diocletian .64 Ch. of S. Maria degli Angeli 168 PraHorian Camp 89 Ch. of S. Maria della Vittoria . . . . 184 Sta. Susanna 199 PAGE Porta Pia 6 Columbarium of the Vigna di Lozzano . . 79 Ch. of S. Agnese fuori le Mura . . . 140 Ch. ofS.Costanza 159 Porta Salara . . 6 Campus Sceleratus 88 Villa Albani 335 Agger of Servius Tullius 87 Gardens of Sallust in the Vigna Barberini . 88 Circus of Sallust . . . . . 56 Villa Ludovisi 343 Piazza Barberini (Circus of Flora) . . 55 Fontana del Tritone 96 Ch. of Cappuccini . . . ... 148 Pal. Barberini 282 Fontana di Trevi . 96 Ch. of S. Maria a Trevi (Crocifera) . 1S2 Ch. of S. Andrea delle Fratte . . . 143 Propaganda College 312 Piazza di Spagna and the Barcaccia Fountain 96 Ch. of la Trinita de' Monti . . 201 Obelisk 93 Houses of the Zuccheri and of Poussin . . 308 Villa Medici (Academy of France) . . .345 Pincian Hill 14 Public Walks on Monte Plncio .... 99 Porta Pinciana . . . . . . 6 Villa Borghese 339 V. Mausoleum of Augustus to the Velabrum. Mausoleum of Augustus . Hospitals of S. Giacomo and S. Rocco Pal. Borghese ... Pal. di Firenze .... Pantheon .... Ch. of S. Maria sopra Minerva Biblloteca Casanatense Pal. Lante .... University (La Sapienza) . Pal. Madama . . Pal. Giustiniani .... Ch. of S. Luigi de' Francesi Ch. of S. Agostino . Angelica Library . Pal. AUemps .... House of Raphael (Via de' Coronari Pal. Clcciaporci . Pal. Nicolinl .... Ch. of S. Maria in Vallicella Pal. Turci S. Maria della Pace Pal. Moutevecchio . Ch. of S. Maria dell' Anima Piazza Navona (Circus Agonalls Fountains Obelisk . . . . Pal. Pamflll . ... Ch. of S. Agnese . . . Pal. Braschi .... Stjitlfe of Pasquin Pal. Massimo .... Ch. of S. Andrea della Valle Theatre of Pompey Pal. Vldoni Pal. Mattei .... Circus Flaminius . . , . 67 318, 319 . 284 . 300 . 42 . 174 . 177 301 . 309 . 301 . 300 . 167 . 142 . 142 . 232 . 307 . 289 . 302 . 183 . 307 178 . 302 . 169 . 55 . 95 . 92 . 302 . 139 . 2S7 . 97 . 301 . 144 49 . 307 . 301 , 65 Sect. I. § 35. SIGHTS OF ROME LOCALLY ARRANGED. 365 m PAGE Pal. di Caserta 288 Fountain of the Tavtarughe . . . 96 Pal. Costaguti . . 294 Portico of Octavia .88 Ch. oTS. Angelo in Peschcria 145 Theatre of Marcellus 49 Pal. Orsini ... 302 Ghetto (Jews' quarter) . . 3 Pal. Cenci 238 Theatre of Balbus 49 Forum Olitorium 27 Ch. of S. Niccolo in Cavccre (Temple of Juno Sospita, &c) 38, 185 Hospital of the Consolazionc 318 Tarpeian Rock .84 VI. The Velabrum to the Fabrician Bridge. Forum Boarium 27 Arch of Janus Quadrifrons ... .00 Arch of Soptimius Severus 60 Ch. of S. Giorgio in Velabro 162 Cloaca Maxima and Acqua Argentina . . 86 Vigna Nussiner (Walls of Romulus and Palace ofthe Ctesars) 33 Ch. of Sta. Anastasia . 143 Circus Maximus . . . ... 54 Baths of Caracalla 62 Ch. of SS. Nereo edAchilleo 185 Tomb of the Scipios ..... 75 Columbaria in the Vigna Codini, Ac, . . 80 Arch of Drusus 60 Porta S. Sebastiano 8 Tomb of Priscilla 76 Columbarium of the Freedmen of Augustus 81 Columbarium of the Liberti of Livia . . 81 Basilica of S. Sebastiano . .... 197 Catacombs 348 Circus of Romulus 55 Temple of Romulus 45 Tomb of Caxiliti Metella 69 Tomb of the Servilii .... 16, 369 Temple of Bacchus 26 The so-called Fountain of Egeria . . 90 Temple ofthe Divus Rediculus . . 3S Basilica of San Paolo 132 Ch. of S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane . . . 187 Porta S. Paolo . . 8 Pyramid of Caius Cestius . . ... 71 Protestant Burial-ground 321 Monte Testaccio .14 Emporium and Marmorata 8- Pons Sublicius . . .... 1 1 Aventine ... 13, 192 Ch. of S. Prisca 192 Remains of Servian Wall in the Vigna del Collegio Romano 87,194 Ch. of S.Saba 194 Ch. of S. Sabina . . . . .194 Ch. of S. Alessio ... . 143 Ch. of S. Maria Aventinense 172 Ch. of S. Maria in Cosmedin 173 (Temple of Ceres and Proserpine) ... 37 Bocca della Verita 37 Temple of Vesta .48 Temple of Fortuna Virilis 38 House of Cola di Rienzo 94 Ponte Rotto 10 VII. The Fabrician Bridge to the Ponte di S. Angelo. PAGE Ponte de' Quattro Capi (Pons Fabricius) . 10 Hospital of Benfratelli 3L8 Island of the Tiber, and Temp, of .Esculapius 35 Ch. of S. Bartolommeo 147 Ponte di S. Bartolommeo (Pons Gratianus) 10 Trastevere . . 3 Ch. of S.Cecilia 150 Ch. of S. Maria del Orto 173 Ripa Grande and Hospital and Prison of S, Michele . ... ... 320 Porta Portese .9 Ch. of S. Francesco a Ripa . . . . 162 Ch. of S. Maria in Trastevere 181 Hospital of S. Gallicano . . . . 319 Ch. of S. Crtfcogono 159 S. Pietro in Montorio . .... 188 Fontana Paolina 95 Porta S. Pancrazio 9 Ch. of S. Pancrazio and Catacombs of Cale podius . 187 Villa Pamfili-Doria and Columbaria . . 346 Pal. Corsini . . . 292 Pal. Farnesina 298 Bolanic Garden . .309 Cb.ofS. Onofrio . ¦ 186 Ponte Sisto 10 Fontana di Ponte Sisto .... .97 Ch. of La Trinita du' Pellegrini . . . .202 Hospital of the Pellegrini 319 Ch. of S. CarloaCadnati 149 Pal. della Cancelleria 287 Ch. of SS. Lorenzo c Damaso 166 Pal. Stlvestri 301 Pal. Farnese 297 Fountains .... . . . . 97 Pal. Spada 305 Pal. Falconieri 297 English College and Ch. of S. Tommaso degli Inglesi ... ... 200, 312 Pal. Sacchetti 303 Ch. of S. Giovanni de' Fiorentini . . 163 Ruins of the Pons Triumphalis ... 10 VIII. Bridge of S. Angelo to Monte Mario, Borgo or Citta Leonina 4 Ponte di S. Angelo . 9 Mausoleum of Hadrian 72 Hospital of Santo Spirito 317 Pal. Giraud 300 Piazza of St. Peter's 102 Obelisk . ... . . 91 Fountains 97 Basilica 100 Palace of the Vatican 202 Sixtine Chapel .204 Museum .207 Gallery of Pictures 240 Stanze of Raphael 232 Library .216 Manufactory of Mosaics ... . . 253 Gardens .... 253 Pontifical Armoury 254 Porta Cavalleggleri 9 Porta Angelica . 9 Monte Mario 345 Villa Madama 344 Villa Mellini 345 ( 366. ) SECTION II. EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF R03IE. PAGE Acquacetosa 439 Affile .... 387, 421 Agosta 385 Alba Longa 399 Albano 408 Allia 431 Ampiglione .... 383 Anguillara 444 Anio, Falls 380 Antemna? 436 Anticoli 385 Antium 457 Ardea 456 Ariccia 410 Arsoli 385 Astura 459 BoviUaj 407 Bracciano 442 Canino ... . . 476 Cantalupo 384 Canterano 385 Castel Arcione . . . 373 Castel Fusano .... 453 Castel Gandolfo. . . .403 Castel GiubeLeo . . . 437 Castello d'Osa . . . .426 Castiglione 425 Castro 479 Cave 421 Cavo, Monte . . . .401 Cecchina, la 406 Ceri Nuovo 467 Cervara 3*5 Cervaro 427 Cervetri 461 Ciciliano 384 Civita Laviuia .... 411 Civitella, la 387 Coazzo 428 Collatia 427 Colonna 414 Corioli 412 Corneto 467 Decima 449 Eretum 430 Farnese 479 Fiano. . ... 440 Ficulea 429 Fidena? 436 Fiumicino 445 Frascati 391 Frattocchie, le . . . .407 PAGE Gabii 424 Galera . . ^ . . . . 441 Gallicano 423 Genazzano . . . 387,421 Genzano 41 2 Graviscaj 472 Grotta Ferrata .... 396 Horace's Sabine Farm . . 387 Ischia 479 Isola Farnese .... 436 Isola Sacra 453 Lake of Albano. . . .403 Bracciano .... 440 Gabii 426 Kemi 413 Regillus . . . .415 Lanuvium 411 Lariccia 411 Laurentum 454 Lavinium 455 Licenza 388 Lunghezza 427 Magliana . . , . 445 Manciano 481 Marano 385 Marcigliana . . . .431 Marino 397 Mentana 430 Monte Cavo 401 Compatri .... 415 Genaro . . . .388 Giove 411 Porzio 41 5 Rotondo .... 430 Sacro 428 Montemerano .... 481 Monticelli 374 Musignano 476 Nemi 413 Nettuno 459 Nomentum 430 Numicus 455 Olevano .... 387, 422 Oriolo 443 Ostia 448 Palazzola 400 Palestrina 415 Paliano 422 Palidoro 462 Palo 461 Palombara 371 TAGE Ponte della Badia . . . 472 Ponte Galera . . 445 Ponte di Nona . . 425 Porto d'Anzio . . . 457 Pratica . . , . . 455 Prima Porta . . . . 43S Rocca di Cave . . . . 421 Giovine . . . 388 di Papa ¦ . . 401 Priora . . 395, 420 San Cosimato . . 384 Sant' Angelo in Capoci ia . 374 . 426 Tor Paterno . . . . 454 Tor Pignatarra . . . 416 Tor de" Scbiavi . . . 424 Tor Tre Teste . . . 425 Torre Lupara . . . 429 Torre Nuova . . . 416 Trevignano . . . 444 Tuscania. . . . 477 Via Appia Nova . . 406 Villa Adriana . . . 375 The Via Appia. This is one of the most interest ing excursions from Rome, arid one of those most easily accomplished, the ancient road being now open for carriages in its entire extent, from the city gates to Albano. For the casual visitor a few hours 'will suf fice ; but the antiquarian traveller will find matter for several visits, in the many curious monuments and inscriptions which line this Regina Viarum, between the Porta di San Se- ¦ ;-¦¦ .. ".f-lT--. ¦ VIA;.APEIA.j.-.'ir ..^: .'.¦.„. 367 Z& Cffallaer Sculp* Sect. II. . . VIA APBIA. 367 bastiano *nd Frattoechie, in an extent of nearly 1 1 Roman miles. The Via Appia was one of the most celebrated lines of communication which led from the capital of the Roman World: it was commenced A.u.c. 441, or B.C. 312, by Appius Claudius Caucus, the Censor. At first it only extended to Capua, but was afterwards prolonged to Brundusium, and became not only the great line of communication with Southern Italy generally, but with Greece and the most remote Eastern possessions of the Roman' Empire. qua limite noto Appia longarum teritur Regina Viarum. Stat. Sylo. II. 2. Until the reign of Pius IX. the greater part of the Via Appia, beyond the tomb of Cajcilia Metella, or between the 3rd and 11th m., was almost con founded with the surrounding Cam pagna, and only marked by the line of ruined sepulchres which form such picturesque objects in that solitary waste: it was reserved for the present Pontiff, aided by the late Commander Jaeobini, his enlightened Minister of Public Works and Fine Arts, to lay it open in the most interesting part of its extent to the study of the archaeologist. Commenced in 1850, the works of excavation were com pleted in 1853, under the direction of the late Commendatore Canina, who published a most interesting work on the discoveries made, with de tailed topographical plans and restora tions of the principal monuments, one of the very important contributions made of late years to ancient topo graphy by that lamented archaso- logist, and which ought to be in the hands of all those who wish to examine in detail this very classical locality.* Referring therefore to Canina's work for more ample information,weshall confine ourselves here to point out the most remarkable objects between Rome and le Frattoechie, near the site of the ancient Bovilte. * La prima parte della Via Appia dalla Porta Capena a Boville, descritta e dimostrata con i Monumenti superstiti : Roma, 1853. 2 vols. 4to. It may not be unnecessary to inform the reader that the Via Appia com menced nearly 1 m. within the Porta Appia of the Aurelian wall, the modern gate of S. Sebastiano, at the Porta Ca pena, the position of which was about 300 yards beyond the modern Via di San Gregorio, corresponding to the narrow est part of the valley, between the Cielian and Aventine hills, crowned respectively by the Villa Mattei on the 1., and the ch. of Santa Balbina on the rt. The distance from this point to the modern Porta di San Sebastiano is 1480 yards, being the space included between the more ancient wall of Ser vius Tullius and that of Aurelian. Leaving the Porta Capena, we soon after cross the Maranna, the ancient Aqua Crabra, which, entering the city near the Porta Metronia, after running through the valley of the Circus Maximus, empties itself into the Tiber near the opening ofthe Cloaca Maxi ma: beyond this and on the 1. the modern Horticultural Gardens are supposed to occupy the site of the grove and Temple of the Camena?, near which, in more ancient times, were the Fountain and Valley of Egeria, the site of Nuriia's interviews with that mysterious nymph. The locality is clearly fixed by Juvenal's description of the journey of his friend Umbricius and himself, in whose time the place appears to have lost all its romance, being inhabited by the lower orders, chiefly Jews — Sed dum tota domus rheda componitur unit, Substitit ad veteres Arcus.madidamque Capenam; Hie, ubi nocturnal Numa constituebat arnica;. Nunc sacri fontis nemus, et delubra locantur Judeis. . . . In vallem Egeria? descendimus et speluncas Dissimiles veris .... Jm. SatAll The site is further confirmed by a very ancient scholiast of Juvenal, who states, when commenting on the above verses, " Stetit expectans rhedam, ubi solent Proconsules jurare in Via Appia ad Portam Capenam, id est ad Camsenas." Farther on still on our 1. stands the ch. of San Sisto, the supposed site of the Temple of Honour and Virtue, founded by Marcus Marcellus, and mentioned 368 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome, by Cicero. Here the Via Latina sepa rated on the 1., and in the triangular space between it, the Via Appia, and the Aurelian Wall, are the tombs of the Scipios iu the Vigna Sassi, the Columbaria ofthe neighbouring Vigna Codini, which are described at p. 80, and some substructions of ancient edi fices and sepulchres on the opposite side of the road, in the Vignas Moroni and Casali. The Arch of Drusus fol lows, and 120 yds. beyond the Porta di S. Sebastiano on the rt. was found the 1st milestone ofthe Via Appia, which is now placed on the balustrade before the Capitol. It was in the space on the 1. outside of the modern gate that the best authorities place the Temple of Mars, where the armies entering Rome in triumph used to halt ; the descent being the ancient Clivus Martis men tioned on a beautifully cut inscription in the Galleria Lapidaria at the Vati can. Passing under the railway via duct and crossing the Almo, the huge mass of ruin on the 1. is supposed to be the sepulchre of Geta, and that on the opposite side of the road of Pris cilla, the wife of Absacanthus, a minion of Domitian's, in front of which is the modern Osteria di Acquataccio : the tomb of Priscilla is surrounded by niches, which probably contained sta tues ; the circular tower placed upon it is a mediaeval construction. A few hundred yards farther, the modern Strada della Madonna del Divin' Amore, branches off on the rt. ; at this bifurcation is the ch. of Domine quo vadis, so called from the tradi tion that it was here St. Peter in his flight from Rome met our Saviour, who to the above inquiry of the Apostle replied Venio llomam iterum crucifigi. On the floor of the ch. is a marble slab, with a facsimile of the foot-marks of our Saviour, which are said to have been left upon the block of the road pnvement on which he stood ; the original, in white marble, is preserved amongst the most precious relics of the neighbouring basilica of San Sebastiano (see p. 197). After pass ing Domine quo vadis, the road leading to the Valle Caffarella, to the so-called Fountain of Egeria (p. 90), and the Temple of Bacchus (p. 36), branches of! on the 1. : the space which intervenes between this and the descent to the ch. of S. Sebastian is a kind of table land, the centre of which corresponds to the second m. On the 1. are the Columbaria of the Liberti of Augustus and of Livia, and of the family of the Volusii, in the Vigna Vignolini, and on the rt. of the Cecilii : behind the latter, in the Vigna Ariemendola, or Molinari, the best authorities place the site of the Temple or iEdicola of the Divus Rediculus. The Casale dei Pupazze on 1. is built on the massive ruins of a tomb : the adjoin ing vigna stands over the Catacomb of Pretextatus; and nearly opposite is the entrance to the Catacombs of St. Callixtus, remarkable for the many interesting monuments of the early Christians discovered in them, espe cially the sepulchres of some of the popes of the 2nd and 3rd centys. It is known that the remains of St. Peter and of his immediate successors, which had been deposited in the catacombs of the Vatican, were removed by the Chris tians to these catacombs when the space over the former was converted into a circus by Nero, A. Severus, and Elaga- balus. At the invasion of the Longo- bards most of the relics of the early Bishops of Rome interred here were re moved by Pascal 1., but the inscriptions were left behind, and it is by the dis covery of these that the last resting- places of S. Fabianus, S. Cornelius, and several other early pontiffs, were as certained in 1S54. Beyond the Vigna dei Pupazze a road leads to the ch. of Sant' Urbano. On the descent to S. Sebastian are numerous sepulchral re mains, that nearest the ch. belonging to the tomb of Claudia Semne. In the Vigna Randan ini, on the opposite side of the road, some curious tombs were discovered in May, 1859, com municating' with a catacomb, on the walls and graves in which are nu merous inscriptions of officers of the synagogue and representations of the seven-branch candlestick and other Hebrew emblems, showing that it be longed to the Jews. Most of the in scriptions found in it are in Greek Sect. II. VIA APPIA. 369 characters^io Christian emblem having been discovered is in favour of its Hebrew origin. In one ofthe cubicula a marble sarcophagus, with richly gilt bas-reliefs, was found. The Temple of Romulus and the Circus of Maxentius on the 1. have been fully noticed already (pp. 4fi, 55). The 3rd mile stone on the Appian corresponds to half way between the tomb of Caecilia Me tella and the eastern portion of the ma- chicolated wall of the Caetani fortress. The ruined chapel of the Caetanis is interesting as one of the few Gothic edifices about Rome : it consists of an oblong nave, at the extremity of which are the ruins of an apse : there are traces of a circular wheel-window in the opposite gable, and 6 pointed ones on each side : the roof is destroyed, but the spring of the arches shows that they were pointed and corresponded in number with that of the windows. The tomb of Caecilia Metella is situ ated, as already stated, at the extre mity of a lava current, which de scended probably from near Marino, and which may be well seen in the numerous quarries of Capo di Bove, to the 1. of the road, and from which a considerable portion ofthe paving-stone of the modern city is obtained. From this point the Via Appia runs almost in a straight line as far as Albano, its direction being very nearly S. 39 3 E. 1 m. beyond this, on the 1., or close to the 4th m., on a modern pier, have been placed several fragments of sculpture, and an inscription belonging to the tomb of M. Servilius Quartus, which stood here: it was excavated by Ca nova. A few yards beyond this on the 1. is a very interesting bas-relief, placed upon a modern pedestal, sup posed to represent the death of Atys, the son of Croesus, killed in the chace by Adrastus ; the sitting figure is Crcesus, before whom Adrastus is kneeling, the b ody of Atys borne behind, and followed by the Fates, emblematical of his des tiny as predicted to the father in a dream. This bas-relief, one of the most interesting discoveries during the late excavations, was evidently the ornament of a sepulchral monu ment; and as it is well known, as stated by Tacitus, that it was at the 4th m. on the Appian, and con sequently near this spot, that Seneca was murdered in one of his villas, by order of Nero, there is reason to sup pose that the tomb of the philoso pher was here, and, as no inscrip tion would have been permitted to be placed upon it during the tyrant's life time, that this bas-relief, emblematical of the instability of life in the midst of the greatest apparent prosperity, and of the unerring hand of destiny, was placed on the tomb of Seneca, who, as Solon did of old by Croesus, endeavoured to reform the mind and ways of his imperial pupil. Beyond this interesting site is the sepulchral inscription in verse of the sons of Sextus Pompeius Justus, a freedman of one of the Sexti, descendants of Pompey the Great: close to it are the ruins, in the form of two massive fragments of wall, of a small temple supposed to have been dedicated to Jupiter, where numerous Christians suffered martyr dom. This temple, which might have been easily and appropriately con verted into a ch. dedicated to the mar tyrs who had suffered near it, was de spoiled by Prince Torlonia, the owner ofthe soil, in 1850, before the govern ment excavations were commenced, in order to remove its granite columns to adorn his tasteless villa on the Via Nomentana. From this point we enter on a real street of tombs, which con tinue uninterruptedly for nearly 4 m. : between the 4th and 5th m. the most re markable are — on the rt. a cippus raised to Plinius Eutychus by Caius Plinius Zosimus, probably the favourite freed man of Pliny the younger, who speaks of him in one (lib. v., let. 19) of his letters ; then comes the tomb of Caius Licinius, and still farther a Doric tomb, a very ancient republican construction in peperino, with bas-reliefs represent ing a warrior and warlike instruments ; and one of a later period to several members of the family of the Secun- dini, an inscription on which is curious — TITO . CLAVDIO . SECVNTJO . PHILIP. PIANO . C0ACT0W . FLAVIA . IRENE . vxoki indvlgentissimo; from which it would appear that the deceased was B 3 370 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome, a tax-gatherer, and the best of hus bands, in modern lapidary phraseo logy ; the monument is probably of the time of Trajan; — of Rabirius Her- modorus, of Rabiria Demaris, and Usia Prima, a priestess of Isis, with bas- relief portraits of each ; and a little farther another republican monument in peperino, of a very early style, but without an inscription. After passing the 5th m., on the rt. is a circular mound, on which stands a modern tower, and a short way beyond 2 larger ones, surrounded by a base ment of blocks of peperino, which Canina supposes to be the tombs of the Horatii and Curiatii, where antiquaries place the Fossa Cluilia, raised by the Romans in their contests with the Albans : their form and construction are very different from the sepul chres of the Imperial period; they resemble some of those decidedly Etruscan, such as the Alsietian mound tombs near Monterone on the road to Civita Vecchia, whilst their position corresponds exactly with the distance from Rome where we are told by Livy those heroes fell ; in which case the level ground behind would be the site of the entrenched camp of the Albans in their attempt to oppose the progress of the Romans under Tullus Hostilius. This appears to have been subse quently converted into an Ustrinum, or open space where human bodies were consumed, some fragments of its enclosing wall being still visible. On the opposite side of the road, and extend ing considerably in every direction, is a large mass of ruins, formerly confounded under the denomination of Roma Vecchia, but which are now considered to have formed a large sub urban villa belonging to the Quintilii, and afterwards to the Emperor Com- modus. The huge pyramidal ruin on the 1. near this, called without any foundation the Sepulchre of the Metel li, is at the same time one of the most picturesque objects on the Via Appia, the most remarkable from its massive solidity : the narrow pedestal on which the great mass is supported, like a mushroom on its stalk, is owing to the large blocks of stone which formed the outer part of the base being carried away in more recent times for build ing purposes. Near this is an. inscrip tion of a member of the family of Caecilii, in whose sepulchre, as we are told by Eutropius, Pomponius Atticus was buried, near the 5th m. on the Appian ; and close to it of the Terentii, the family of the wife of Cicero, in timately allied with that of P. Atticus. Between the 5th and 6th m., on the 1., are the memorials of Sergius Demetrius, a wine-merchant (Vinarius), who lived in the Velabrum, of Lucius Arrius, and Septimia Galla. At the 6th m. is one of the most remarkable ruins on the Via Appia, the large circular sepulchre called Casale Rotondo, of such huge dimensions, that not only there is a house and farm-buildings, but an olive- garden, upon its summit. Recent ex cavations have led to the discovery of several fragments of sculpture and inscriptions, one bearing the name of Cotta in fine large letters. There is reason to believe that it was erected to Messalla Corvinus, the historian, orator, and poet, the friend of Augustus and Horace, one of the most wealthy and influential of the great senatorial families, of the time — Cotta Pieridum lumen, presidiumque fori. Maternos Cottas cui Messallasque paternos Maxima nobilitas ingeminata dedit— Ovid. Epist. xvi. — who died in the 11th year of our era, by his son Marcus Aurelius Messallinus Cotta, who was Consul a.d. 20. The inscription on it has been thus re stored by the late Cav. Borghesi — M. AURELIUS M. F. M. COTTA, MESSALLA corvino patri. The tomb was one of the most colossal outside the gates of Rome : as it now stands, it is 342 Eng. ft. in diameter, or one-third more than that of Cascilia Metella; it is built of small fragments of lava, embedded in a strong Pozzolana cement in the centre, bound together by large blocks of travertine, and was cased in a coat ing ofthe same stone, and covered with a pyramidal roof formed of slabs so sculptured as to imitate thatch or tiling, over which rose a lantern, orna mented withbas-reliefs, tripods, cornice Sect. II. VIA APPIA. 371 marks, *c. ; the base was formed by huge masses of the same material, and the whole monument surrounded on the side of the Campagna with a wall of peperino, on which stood pedestals and cippi, which probably supported ornamental vases and statues. Some fine specimens of sculpture were found near it ; amongst others, a short column, which probably formed a pedestal for a statue, with a circular bas-relief of Tritons and marine animals of beau tiful design. All these fragments of sculpture have been placed od the face of a high wall close to the huge sepulchral pile, arranged according to Canina's restoration of the monu ment, where they are seen to advan tage. In front of the tomb are re mains of hemicycles for seats, or resting-places, for travellers on the side of the Via Appia. The view from the summit of this tomb is one of the finest over the Campagna and the Alban hills. Beyond Casale Rotondo stood, on the rt. the tombs of P. Quin- tius, Tribune ofthe 16thLegion; of a Greek comic actor ; of Marcus Julius, a steward of the emperor Claudius ; of Publius Decumius Philomusus, the inscription being flanked by what might be called an armorie parlante, 2 well-executed bas-reliefs of mice ; and of Cedritius Flaccianius, a military Tribune: whilst on the 1. are the Torre di Selce, a tower of the middle ages, erected upon a huge circular sepulchre belonging to some great un known ; the tombs of Titia Eucharis, and of Atilius Evhodus, a seller of ornaments of female attire, who had his shop on the Sacra Via: the in scription on it is entire and curious ; it appeals to those who pass to respect it, with an eulogium of the deceased Margaritarius de Sacra Via, and the designation of the persons who were to be interred in it. Between the 6th and 7th m. the road descends, and deviates slightly from the straight line, to avoid the too rapid descent, and to follow the escarpment of the lava-current at a higher level. It would appear, how ever, that in the origin the road fol lowed the direct course, as indicated by some more ancient tombs which are seen on the 1. ; the large semicir cular ruin on the 1. is supposed to have been an Exhedra or resting-place for wayfarers, erected probably when Ves pasian or Nerva repaired the road. Between the 7th and 8th m. there is no tomb of any note; the large cir cular mound on the rt. is probably of the republican period. Corresponding with the site of the 8th m. are consider able masses of ruins, and particularly several columns in an early Doric style and of Alban peperino, surround ing a portico, which, from the dis covery of an altar dedicated to Silva- nus, is supposed to have been the area of that divinity raised during the republic. In the space between the area of Silvanus and the neigh bouring large circular mound faced with blocks of Alban stone, stood the temple of Hercules, erected by Domi tian, and to which Martial alludes in several of his Epigrams ; the more ancient iEdicula of Hercules, near which it stood, was probably in the area of Silvanus. Behind the temple was the villa of Bassus, and further on and on the same side that of Persius, of which there are some walls standing. A few yards far ther is an inscription to Q. Cassius, a marble-contractor (redemptor) ; and be yond and on the 1. of the road the only tomb bearing an inscription is that of Q. Veranius, possibly the same who was consul a.d. 49, and who died in Britain a.d. 55; the ownership of the high ruin called the Torraccio, with a shepherd's Hut on the summit, near it, has not been ascertained. Exactly corresponding with the site of the 9th m., and on the rt. side of the Via Appia, is a considerable ruin supposed to be the tomb of Gallienus, and in which at a later period was buried the Emperor Alexander Severus, who died at the neighbouring Mutatio or halting- place of the Tres Tabernse. The mass of walls behind mark the site of the villa of Gallienus, which we know from Aurelius Victor was here. This site was excavated during the last centy., by Gavin Hamilton, an English artist settled at Rome, when the Discobolus, now in the Museum of the Vatican, 372 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. and several other good specimens of ancient sculpture, were discovered. The Roman station ad Nonam, or Tres Tabernae, was close to this spot. From the tomb of Gallienus the road descends to the torrent of the Ponticello, beyond which stood the 10th milestone ; the most remarkable sepulchre in this space being on the rt., a massive circular one, like those of the Horatii and Curiatii, and for its size one of the most remarkable on all the road we have described: it marks the S.E. limit of the Agro Romano. From the Ponticello the Via Appia ascends gradually for the next m. : half-way on the 1. is a large round tomb of the Imperial period, decorated with columns and niches. About 150 yards beyond the place corresponding to the 11th m., and on the 1., is a massive ruin, with a chamber in the form of a Greek cross in the centre, and with a pointed roof, which now serves as a dwelling for shep herds. The last monument of any importance before reaching le Frat toechie, where the recently excavated portion of the Via Appia joins that now forming with the Via Appia Nova, the post or direct road between Rome and Albano. It was near this latter sepulchre, and about 50 yds. be yond the mark of the 1 1th ancient mile, that was situated the S.E. extremity of the base-line measured by Boscovich and Maire, in 1750, by order of Bene dict XIV., the other being the tomb of Cascilia Metella. The length of this base-line was 13,090 English yards, or nearly 7i m., the object of the measurement being to connect by a series of triangles the shores of the Adriatic and the Mediterranean, and to furnish data for a more correct topographical survey of the States of the Church. The ancient pavement exists on a great part of the road we have travelled over for the last 8 m., and in many places with the sideway for foot pas sengers bordered by a parapet, espe cially between the 8th and 10th m. The blocks of silex employed for the pave ment were obtained from the numerous quarries of lava which border the road on either side. It is in general much worn into deep ruts by the wheels ofthe vehicles that passed over it, so as to make it none of the smoothest for the visitor in his modern carriage. Traces of fountains, and semicircular ex- hedrm for the use of the Roman way farer, may be seen alongside some of the tombs. All the milestones have disappeared, but their positions have been carefully determined, adopting for the length of the Roman mile the distance between the Porta Capena and the spot where that bearing the inscrip tion via appia. I. was discovered, and which, as well as a similar one found at the 7th m. on this road, have been removed to the balustrade in front of the intermontium of the Capitol. It may not be out of place to men tion that the whole expenditure for re-opening the Via Appia has little exceeded 3000Z. sterling, in which has been included, not only the re moval of several feet of earth and rubbish that had accumulated during so many centuries, but the erection of walls to defend it from the encroach ments of the neighbouring landowners, many of whom (considering the ancient monuments as their property) threw difficulties without end in the way of the praiseworthy operation which by Commendatore Jacobini's and Canina's perseverance was so happily brought to a conclusion. It still remains to place many of the frag ments of sculpture and inscriptions which have been discovered, in such a manner as to be more available to the antiquarian visitor, and to pre vent their mutilation ; and carry down the excavations to the level of the Via Appia of Imperial times ; for there is reason to believe that a good deal of the road, formed of poly gonal blocks of lava, as now exposed, is of a more recent date, and that the causeway over which Horace and Virgil, Augustus and Germanicus, travelled on their way to Brundusium, will one day be discovered, beneath the more barbarous work of the middle ages. Sect. II. TIVOLI, 373 Tivoli, 18 miles. There are few places in the envi rons of Rome which present so many objects of natural beauty as Tivoli and its surrounding valleys. The enjoy ment of the excursion depends in a great measure on the time which the traveller can devote to it. It is not unusual to start from Rome at an early hour, visit the cascades and the temples, and return in -the evening of the same day.* A hurried excursion of this kind will be scarcely satisfactory : the fine scenery about Tivoli cannot be properly explored in less than 2 or 3 days ; and those who are desirous of visiting the classical sites among the neighbouring mountains will find it necessary to make arrangements for a still longer visit. The usual charge for a carriage to go and re turn iu the same day is 5 to 6 scudi, exclusive of the driver's buonamano. Public conveyances start twice a day from the Piazza degli Orfanelli, per forming the journey in 4 hours. Leav ing Rome by the Porta S. Lorenzo, we soon pass the basilica of that name, cross the rly. to Ancona ; and following the Via Tiburtina, at a distance of 4 m. from the city gate cross the Anio, the modern Teve- rone, by the Ponte Mammolo. This bridge, the ancient Pons Mammaeus, derived its name from Mammaca, the mother of Alexander Severus, ,by whom it was repaired. In later times it was destroyed by Totila, and rebuilt by Narses in its present form. It was partly destroy ed by the French in 1849, and completely so by the Pope's foreign troops in 1867 ; it has been repaired for the purpose of carrying across the Anio the gigantic iron pipes of the sy phon of the Acqua Pia. A new one has been erected a short way lower down the stream. The Anio, or Teverone, which we here cross, rises on the frontier of the former kingdom of Naples ; it se parated Latium from the country of the Sabines, and falls into the Tiber 2 m. from Rome, below the Ponte Sa- * The gates of Rome are closed at 10 o'clock, and can only be opened on presenting a per mission from the military authorities. laro. After crossing the river, an ascent of a mile brings us into the wide plain through which flows the torrent of Le Molette, descending from the group of hills of Santangelo and Monticelli — 1J m. after crossing which, by a gradual rise, we reach the Osteria^ del Fornaccio, and 2 large farm-build-* ings belonging to Princes Borghese and Torlonia. Before reaching this place some curious monticules of tufa and square mediteval towers are seen on the rt., bordering on the Anio, and in which are excavated the caverns or ancient quarries of Cerbara near the opposite bank. From II Fornaccio a road branches off on the 1., which leads to Monticelli, and the first 2 m. of which was the ancient Via Ti burtina, the modern road for the next 3 m. running more to the rt. At the 9th m. is the Osteria delle Ca- panacce, the highest point between the Anio at Ponte Mammolo and Ponte Lucano. About the 10th m. we pass over a considerable portion of the ancient road, paved with polygonal blocks of lava. Near the 12th m. is the Osteria of Le Tavernucole, close to which a column on the road-side marks the boundary between the Agro Romano and the territory of Tivoli. Before reaching Le Tavernucole are seen on the 1., and at a short distance from the road, the extensive ruins of Castel Arcione, a mediaeval stronghold which belonged to the family of that name. Having become, in the early part of the 15th centy., a resort of brigands, it was reduced to its present dismantled state by the people of Tivoli. The wooded region seen on the rt. beyond the Anio comprises the Tenute (farms) of Lunghezza and Castiglione, the former near the site of Collatia, the latter of the no less cele brated Gabii. It was not far from the 12th m. that the monument erected to Julia Stemma by her children, now in the Vatican Museum, was discovered a few years ago. The appearance of the country alters near this, and the vegetation is less luxuriant, owing to the change in the geological na ture of the soil, which from Rome has been entirely volcanic, whereas 374 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome. we now enter on the Travertine region, which extends to the base of (the Apennines. The view of the hills be fore us is very fine from hereabouts, and indeed all the way to Tivoli. The 3 low pointed hills on the 1., capped with castles and villages, are Santangelo in Capoccia, on the site of Medullia, Poggio Cesi, and Monticelli, on that of Corniculum ; whilst between the latter and Monte Gennaro, one ofthe highest peaks in this part of the Apennines, we discover Palombara, the ancient Ca- rneria. About ljm. beyond Le Taver nucole, and close to the road, on the 1. hand, is the Logo de' Tartari, so called from the incrusting quality of its waters, which produce the stone called Travertine, and deposit a calcareous coating on vegetable and other sub stances. The margin has been so much contracted by the deposits from the water that its surface goes on gradually diminishing in extent. Its sides are formed by large masses of a coarse cal careous incrustation. Near this a road on the 1. leads to Palombara and Mon ticelli; and another, a branch of the ancient Via Tiburtina, to Tivoli by the Ponte dell' Acquoria, the ancient Pons Aureus, but is superseded by the more recent one over the Ponte Lucano. 1 m. beyond the Lago de' Tartari we arrive at the bridge which crosses the canal that drains the lakes of La Solfatara, the ancient Aquae Albulae, and carries its sulphurous waters into the Teverone. The canal is 9 ft. wide and 2 m. long. It was cut by Cardinal Ippolito d'Este, whilst governor of Tivoli, in order to prevent the inundations and ma laria to which the country was liable from the overflow of these lakes, the more ancient and tortuous emissary having been choked up. The" water is of a milky colour : it runs in a strong current, and is always marked by a disagreeably-fetid smell of sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The lakes are about 1 m. from the bridge, and are filled with reeds and aquatic vegetables : the petrifying quality of the water is con tinually adding to the rocky margin around them. In the middle ofthe 17th cent, the larger ofthe two was a mile in circuit, but was so contracted that its greatest diameter, in 1857, was 2527 ft., that ofthe smaller one being only 233 ft. The floating masses of vegetable matter on its surface have been called " Isole Natante. " The lake is mentioned by Strabo, who says that its waters were used medicinally, and that they were much esteemed in various maladies. Near it are the ruins of the Baths of Agrippa, frequented by Augustus and enlarged by Zenobia, in recollection of whom they are still called " Bagni di Regina." The water was examined by Sir Humphry Davy, who ascertained that the temperature was 80° Fahren heit (in 1859 it had decreased to 72°, according to the observations of the late Professor Daubeny, and of the Editor of the present work), and that it contains more than its own volume of carbonic acid gas, with a small quantity of sulphuretted hydro gen.* The sulphurous odour impreg nates the air for a considerable dis tance, and the depth of water may be proved by the volumes of gas which rise to the surface a certain time after a stone thrown into it has reached the bottom. These lakes were once con sidered as unfathomable, but recent measurements have shown that their greatest depth does not exceed 185 English ft. Besides the principal lake, called Lago delle Isole Natante, nearest the road, there are 2 others ; the largest, of Le Colonelle, is 185 ft. deep, com municating with that of the Solfa tara, and which, from its higher level, furnishes the water to the baths. Out of the smallest lake issues the current which finds its way to the Teverone by the Canal d'Este. The classical tra veller will look in vain for any traces of the grove of the lofty Albunea, or * A more accurate examination of these waters was made by Dr. Vlale Prela in 185t ('Sulle Acque Albule presso Tivoli,' Roma, liil), who found the temperature of the upper lake to he ?5°, of the lower 72£° Fahr.; the greatest depth of the lower lake 162* ft., of the upper one, or of Le Colonelle, 185 ; that each litre of water contained2i grammes of solid matter, con sisting of sulphate of lime, of muriates of soda and magnesia, of borate of soda, and a small proportion of organic substances; and the gases emitted to be carbonic acid and sulphuretted hydrogen, with a minute quantity of al'seniu- retted hydrogen. Sect. II. TIVOLI — VILLA ADRIANA. 375 of the Telflple of Faunus, which Virgil celebrates as the oracle of all Italy : — " lucosque sub alta Cotlsulit Albunea ; nemorum quae maxima sacro Fonto sonat, saavamque exhaiat opaca mc- phitim. Hinc ItaUe gentes, omnisque CEnotria tellus, In dubiis responsa petunt." — sEneid vil. A road of J m. leads on 1. from the bridge to the sulphureous baths, and another of 2 m. to the modern quarries of travertine, near the Osteria Nuova. A little more than 2 m. beyond the canal we cross the Anio by the Ponte Lucano, one of the most picturesque objects in the whole route, which G. Poussin has rendered celebrated by the well-known picture in the Doria Palace. The tomb of Plautius Lucanus, which adds so much to the peculiar character of the landscape, is one of the best preserved of the many sepulchral monuments about Rome. It is similar in form, although of smaller dimensions, to that of Caecilia Metella, on the Via Appia. Like it, it stands on a square base, and is surmounted by mediaeval fortifica tions of the time of Pius II. The de corated front, flanked by pilasters, although ancient, is posterior to the body of the tomb, which was erected in the year preceding our era (752 of Rome), by M. Plautius Silvanus, for himself and his wife Lartia, and his child by a former marriage, Urgula- ricus. It was subsequently used by his descendants, one of whom, Tiberius Plautius Silvanus, served in Britain, and died in A.u.c. S29, as we see by the long inscription on its eastern side. The entrance to the sepulchral chamber was from behind. Near this bridge, at Barco, and in different parts of the plain between the road and the Anio, are the quarries from which ancient Rome derived her supplies of traver tine. Those that supply the modern city are along the modern road. The piers of the Ponte Lucano and 2 of the arches are ancient, but are not re markable for their masonry. A short distance beyond the bridge some ruins may be seen in a garden on the rt., supposed, by Canina, to have belonged to the approaches to the Villa Adriana, on one of which is a mutilated bas- relief of a man and horse, called by the local ciceroni Alexander and Buce phalus. Farther on, the old road, the Via Constantina, proceeds to the 1. in a direct line to Tivoli, the more modern one passing to the rt.: from the latter the road to Hadrian's villa branches off; the carriage-road ascending to the town amidst plantations of gi gantic olive-trees. Near the foot of this ascent may be seen some por tions of an ancient road that led from Gabii to Tibur. The rise from the Anio to the hill on which Tivoli is built is well managed. The road, about 1^ m. in length, with an ascent of 650 ft., was made by the Braschi family in the last centy., and who, during the pontificate of Pius VI., the founder of their fortunes, purchased large posses sions in the vicinity. As the traveller will probably return by the carriage- road, arriving he will do well to leave the vehicle where the old road to Tivoli branches off on the 1. ; ascend ing the latter he will see on the side an inscription of the time of Constan tine relative to its repairs, and be able to visit before reaching the town (in a vineyard) on the rt. the circular edifice called the Temple of la Tosse, higher up the iron-works and the villa of Mecaenas, the cathedral, &c. Villa of Hadrian (Villa Adriana), lately purchased by the Italian Go vernment, of its owner, the Duke of Braschi. This villa is situated on the plain at the base of the hill of Tivoli, and was built from the em peror's designs, in order to include in one spot all he had seen most striking in the course of his travels. It covered a space said by the Roman antiquaries to be from 8 to 10 m. in circuit ; when first built it must have been more like a town than a villa. Nothing in Italy can be compared to its imposing ruins. It contained a Lyceum, an Academy, a Poecile in imitation of that at Athens, a Vale of Tempe, a Serapeon of Ca- nopus in imitation of that at Alexan dria, a stream called the Euripus, Greek and Latin Libraries, Barracks for the Guards, a Tartarus, Elysian Fields, and 376 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. numerous temples. Hadrian was residing here when he was seized with the illness of which he died at Baiae. The villa is supposed to have been ruined during the siege of Tibur by Totila: for many cen turies subsequent to that event it was plundered by the Romans, who con verted its marbles into lime, and re moved its statues and columns to adorn their palaces and churches. The most remarkable ruins are the follow ing : — The entrance-gate and the alley of trees beyond are supposed to occupy the site of the portico (1), which leads to the Odeum, or Greek Theatre (2), one of three which formerly existed in the villa. The seats, the corridors beneath them, and a portion of the proscenium are still traceable. The modern casino is supposed to stand on the Nymphgsum (3), on the 1. of which, and extending to wards the valley and the Peneus which runs through it, is a confused mass of buildings called the Palestra (4). On the opposite side of the river are the re- mainsof the Latin Theatre (5). Crossing the olive-garden to the rt. we arrive at the Pacile (6), built in imitation of that at Athens, described by Pausanias. The lofty reticulated wall of the portico, nearly 600 feet in length, is still stand ing, the most remarkable, perhaps, of all the ruins of the Villa Adriana. At its eastern extremity is a circular- building, to which the name of Scuola (7) has been given by Canina, but which is more generally known by the desig nation of the Hall of the Seven Philo sophers, with 2 niches for statues, supposed to have been lined with slabs of porphyry. Teatro Marltimo, from the discovery of a mosaic with Villa Adriana. 1. Portico. 2. Odeum. 3. Nymphamm. 4. Palestra. 5. Latin Theatre. 6. Poecile. 1. Scuola. 10. Imperial Palace, with Temples of Diana and Venus, and Libraries. 11. Stadium and Thermae. 12. Passage to the Tartarus. 15. Serapeon of Canopua. 1 &. Roads from Rome and Tivoli. 17. A second Theatre. Sect. II. TIVOLI. 377 representatWns of sea-monsters on the pavement. The beautiful statue of the Faun, in rosso antico, now in the Capi toline Museum, was discovered here. On the 1. of this latter are some ruins called the Greek and Latin Libraries. Beyond the Hall of the Philosophers, are two semicircular buildings, called the, 9. Temples of Diana and Venus, probably, at least the latter, baths, and at their S.E. extremity the Temple of Castor and Pollux or of Bacchus. Imperial Palace (10), a name given to an extensive ruin apparently of two stories: in the lower one are some remains of paintings, with crypts or cel lars. The upper story has a large quad rangular portico. Near this is a long line of arches divided into 3 floors, proba bly the dwelling of slaves or servants. Upon it rise the ruins called the Palace of the Imperial Family, opposite to which is a large circular hall, belonging to a block of buildings called The Therma (11), the roof of which is well pre served, and has some fragments of stucco reliefs. Returning to the Pcecile (5), and traversing the great square space in front, in the centre of which are traces of a piscina, are the Barracks of the Praetorian Guard, a number of chambers of two and three stories, called the Cento Camerelle, with re mains of galleries on the outside from which they were originally entered. On the rt. of the barracks is the great square, nearly 600 ft. in length, supposed by some antiquaries to be the site of the Circus or Hippodrome. Following a terrace towards the Thermae, and bordered on the I. by large vaulted chambers, we arrive at an oblong depression surrounded by ruins ; this was the Serapeon of Canopus (15), in imitation of the edifice bearing the same name at Alexandria. The oblong Atrium in front is supposed to have been filled with water, as several conduits and covered channels may be seen behind the temple. Some chambers called the apartments of the priest, and a semicircular gallery with a painted ceiling, are still standing. The works of art discovered among these ruins are preserved in the Egyptian Mu seum of the Vatican. Beyond the Sera peon are the ruins of the Accademia, and of another Theatre (17). On the 1. of the circus is a fosse (12) leading to some subterranean corridors, supposed to be connected with the Tartarus; and the presumed site of the Elysian Fields. Still farther on to the 1. is the Vale of Tempe, which has little resem blance to the famous vale of Thessaly, although a small stream is carried through it bearing the name of Peneus. Beyond the ruins of the Academy and the l?oman theatre, and on the space between the valleys of the Peneus and Alpheus, which bound on either side the Villa Adriana, are confused ruins, to which the names of Prytaneum and Cynosargus have been given ; and J m. farther still, near the church of San Stefano, a large fragment of walls, known by the name of Torre di Timone, which is supposed to have formed part of the Lyceum, close to which are the ruins of a bridge or aqueduct upon a double tier of arches. The number of precious works of art discovered in Hadrian's villa add greatly to the inte rest of the spot : the beautiful mosaic of Pliny's Doves in the Capitol, many of the Pseudo-Egyptian antiquities in the Vatican, and numerous statues of the highest class, noticed in the account of these museums, were found among its ruins. It disputes with the Portico of Octavia the honour of having con tained the Venus de Medicis, and many of the museums of the great European capitals are indebted to it for some of their most valuable treasures. The ascent to Tivoli by the carriage- road, through a grove of olives, is pic turesque. On the height on the rt. before reaching the gate are the ruins of the villa of Cassius. The principal entrance to the town on this side is by the Porta di Santa Croce, from the terrace near which, called the Veduta, and in front of the Jesuits' College and the Palazzo Santa Croce, there is a magnificent view over the Campagna. Tivoli. Inn: La Sibilla, situated close to the Temple of the Sibyl, and with the best views of the Old Falls, has its situation to recommend it, for the fare, tolerable— a fair dinner, with 378 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome, wine, 4 frs. — the sleeping accommo dation is inferior. Beds, however, clean, without vermin (Dr. H., April, 1869). but make your bargain before hand. Visitors may do better to provide themselves with a cold lunch before leaving Rome, which they can eat comfortably at the conclusion of their excursions under the shady avenues of the Villa d'Este, or on the terrace below the temple of the Sibyl. By leaving Rome early, in the season when these excursions are made with most enjoyment, — April and May, — the visitor will have time to see everything of interest in the immediate vicinity of the town, and to get back before dark. The following itinerary of the prin cipal objects of interest in the more immediate vicinity of Tivoli will oc cupy about 4 hours :— Temples of Vesta and the Sibyl; Grotto of Neptune, tunnels of the Anio cut through the Monte Ca- tillo ; Ruins of the Villa of Vopiscus and ofthe ancient Roman bridges ; excur sion on foot or on horseback by the Chapels of St. Antonio and the Madonna di Quiutiliolo to the Ponte dell' Aoquoria, returning to Tivoli by the ancient Via Tiburtina, and visiting the Tem- pio della Tosse, the Iron-works, and Roman ruins round the latter ; the Villa d'Este, the Ch. of S. Francesco, and the Cathedral. Leaving the Villa d'Este on the return journey to Rome, the old Castle near the Porta di Santa Croce, and the Aqueduct at the Villa Braschi; can be visited. Aquarterofanhourwill bring us to the Villa Adriana, to go over the ruins of which will require above an hour, and by which the day's ex plorations will terminate. From the Villa Adriana the journey to Rome will occupy between 2 and 3 hours. Tivoli, the ancient Tibur, a city of the Sicani, founded nearly 5 centuries before Rome, was one of the early rivals of the Eternal City, and was reduced to obedience by Camillus. The Roman historians tell us that the Sicani were expelled by Tiburtus, Corax, and Ca- tillus, grandsons of Amphiaraus, who came from Greece with Evander ; and that the settlement derived its name from the eldest of these brothers. This circumstance is frequently alluded to by the poets : — " Turn gemini fratres Tiburtia moenia lin- quunt, Fratris Tiburti dictam cognomine gentem, Catillusque, acerque Coras, Argiva juventus." Yirg. JEn. vii. 670. " Moania Tiburis Udi Stabant Argolicaa quod posuere manus." Ovid. Fusti, v. 74. " Nullam, Vare, sacra vite prius severis arbo- rcm Circa mite solum Tibuvis, et mcenia Catili." Itor. Od.I. xviii. 1 . The classical associations of Tivoli have made it a memorable spot in the estimation of the scholar ; its scenery inspired some of the most beautiful Lyrics of Horace, who has sung its praises with all the enthusiasm of a fond attachment : — " Me nee tam patiens Lacedannon, Nee tam Larissa? percussit campus opima3, Quam domus Albuneas resonantis, Et praeeps Anio, et Tiburni lucus, et uda Mobilibus pomaria rivis." — Lib. I. vii. 10. He tells us that he often composed his verses while wandering among the groves and cool pastures of the sur rounding valleys, and expresses his anxious wish that it may be his lot to spend his old age in its retreats : — " Tibur Argceo positum colono, Sit niea? sedes utinam senectaj ; Sit modus lasso maris et viarum Militiaique." Lib. II. vi. 5. In the early period of the empire Tibur was the favourite residence of many of the poets, philosophers, and states men of Rome, the ruins of whose villas are still shown in different parts of the valley. The epithet of " Sn- perbum Tibur," given to it by Virgil, is still borne as the motto on the city arms ; and Catullus and Propertius have commemorated the beauty of its position with a partiality scarcely less remarkable than that of Horace. Among the historical records of the city, we know that Syphax king of Numidia died in its territory B.C. 202, 2 years after his captivity. He had been brought from Alba Fucensis to grace the. triumph of Scipio, and was honoured, as Livy tells us, with a public funeral. Zenobia also, after gracing the triumph of Aurelian, spent Sect. II. TIVOLI. 379 the latter y%ars of her life in the neigh bourhood of Tibur, surrounded with all the pomp of an eastern princess. During the Gothic war, when Rome was besieged by Narses, Tibur was occupied by the troops of Belisarius. It was afterwards defended by the Isau- rians against Totila, and treacherously surrendered by the inhabitants, whom the Goths repaid with such fearful barbarities that Procopius declares it impossible to record their cruelties. Totila, after being defeated in his attempt to take Rome, retired to Tibur, and rebuilt the town and citadel. In the 8th century it lost its ancient name, and assumed that of Tivoli. Its history during the middle ages' is a con tinued record of sieges and struggles against the emperors and the popes. Among these, the most interesting to English travellers is the retreat it afforded to our countryman Adrian IV. and Frederick Barbarossa after the insurrection caused at Rome, in 1155, by the coronation of the emperor, who is said, by the car dinal of Aragon, to have issued a di ploma exhorting the people of Tivoli to acknowledge their allegiance to his Holiness. At this period Tivoli appears to have been an imperial city inde pendent of Rome, and to have been the frequent subject of contention between the emperors and the Holy See. In 1241 it was seized by Frederick II., assisted by the powerful house of Co lonna, and was for some time the stronghold of the Ghibeline party. Tivoli appears to have been the head quarters ofthe Ghibeline chiefs until the cardinals assembled at Anagni elected Sinibaldo dei Fieschi to the papal chair under the name of Innocent IV. In the 14th century Cola di Rienzo made it his head-quarters during his expedition against Palestrina : he resided there for some days, and harangued the people in the square of S. Lorenzo. In the following century it was occupied by Braccio Fortebraccio of Perugia and the Colonnas. To control the people and reduce them to obedience, Pius II. erected the present castle. Modern Tivoli is one of the most im portant cities of the Comarca. It is situated on the slopes of Monte Ripoli, supposed to have been so called from Rubellius, the proprietor of one of the Tiburtine villas. Its height above the level of the sea is 830 feet. The popu lation of the city is about 6750. The chief interest of Tivoli is derived from its picturesque position, from the falls of the Anio, and from the ruins of the temples and villas which still attest its popularity among the rich patricians of ancient Rome. It has little modern interest. Its uncertain and stormy cli mate, and the number of deaths annu ally, which give a bad impression of its salubrity, are commemorated in the popular distich : — " Tivoli di mal conforto," 0 piove, o tira vento, o suoua amorto." Two of its churches, S. Andrea and La Carifa, date from the fifth century. Among the ancient edifices of the town the most important is the Temple of Vesta, although generally attributed to the Tiburtine Sibyl, a beautiful building of the best period of art, finely placed on the rock overhanging the valley of the cascades, on which is supposed to have stood the Arx of the ancient Greek colony, and from which in more recent times this part of Tivoli received the name of Castro Vetere; Nibby, how ever, contends that it is the Temple of Hercules Saxonus. It is a circular edi fice, 21i feet in diameter, surrounded by an open portico of 18 columns, 10 of which remain. They are of stuccoed travertine, of the Corinthian order, and are 18 feet high exclusive of the capitals, which are ornamented with lilies. The entablature is sculptured with festoons of flowers and heads of oxen ; and the architrave bears the inscription L . gellio . L . The cella is composed of small polygons of tufa and travertine, and has two windows. Close to this temple is that now gene rally considered to have been dedicated to the Tiburtine Sibyl (Sibilla Albunea). It is an oblong edifice of travertine, with an open portico of four columns of the Ionic order. It is now converted into a church dedicated to St. George. From the Temple of the Sibyl a pretty path, commenced by General Miollis, and 380 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome. greatly improved by the present Govern ment, which has done much to render this lovely locality as accessible as possible to the visitor, leads to the Grottoes of Neptune and the Sirens, the two points from which the Falls of the Anio were seen, a few years since, to the greatest advantage. The water was carried over a massive wall erected by Sixtus V., and fell into the dark gulf called the Grotto of Nep tune, producing by its contrast with the foam and spray of the cataract one of the most striking scenes of the kind. The inundation of 1826 completely changed the character ofthe cascade: a great portion of the wall of Sixtus V. was destroyed by the rush of waters, which swept away the church of S. Lucia and 36 houses on the 1. bank of the river. It undermined the base of the rock below the temple, and made it necessary to divert the course of the river, in order to preserve it and the part of the town where it stands, from destruction. These changes have de prived the grottoes of much of their in terest, but they are still well worth a visit for the purpose of studying the fine sections of the travertine rock.* The new Falls were formed by cutting two tunnels of 885 and 980 Eng. ft. through the limestone rocks of Monte Catillo, on the other side of the valley. This was ably executed by the Roman engineer Folchi, and the Anio was turned into its new channel in 1834, in the presence of Gregory XVI. The river falls into the valley in one mass from a height of about 320 feet. The effect of its cascade is scarcely inferior to that of the upper portion of the Falls of Terni. The catastrophe of 1826, by diverting the course of the river, laid bare the ruins of portions of two ancient bridges and several Roman tombs. The * The illumination of the Grotto of Neptune, by means of torches and Bengal lights, is one of the interesting sights at Tivoli; the expense, varying according to the number of lights em ployed and the length of the exhibition, from 6 to 1 5 scudi. On returning from the grotto it is generally the custom to light up the cascade, which produces a line effect, and afterwards tho Temple of the Sibyl, which, thus seen from the ascent on the opposite side of the valley, is per haps the finest part of this grand scenic exhibi tion. first bridge, at the eastern extremity of the town and highest up the river, was probably the Pons Valerius, over which the Via Valeria passed in its course up the valley. The subsequent works of Folchi for the new tunnels discovered the second bridge near their mouth: it is better preserved than the first, and may also have led to the Via Valeria ; it is generally designated as the Pons Vopisci, from the name of the owner of the adjoining Roman villa, with which it appears to have been connected ; some antiquaries suppose that it was ruined by the inundation which took place a.d. 165, recorded by Pliny. The cemetery near this ruin was discovered at the same time : it contained many sepulchral monuments ; the most remarkable was that of Lu cius Memmius Afer Senecio, pro-consul of Sicily, who died a.d. 107. Good walks have been cut on both sides of the valley leading to the different points which command the best views of the Falls. There is also a road lead ing, along the base of Monte Catillo, to the circular terrace constructed by Gregory XVI., from which was the finest view of the falls, and to the Oratory of St. Antonio, from where the older ones were best seen ; and farther on to the Madonna di Quin- tiliolo, the best point for viewing the Cascatelle : a path along the margin of the valley amidst a grove of magnificent olive-trees, and from every point of which the views of the Lower Casca telle are the finest, leads from the Ma donna di Quintiliolo to the Ponte dell' Acquoria, where one of the massive arches of the Roman bridge by which the Via Corniculana crossed the Anio to reach Tivoli, is still in excellent preservation. A steep ascent from here leads to the lower part of Tivoli, by the ancient Clivus Tiburtinus, on which portions of the Roman road may be seen in good preservation. Near to where the Clivus Tiburtinus joins the Via Constantina, is the Tempio della Tosse, and higher up the Villa of Mecamas and the modern Villa d'Este. After the objects already mentioned the most worthy of notice are the pre- tendedVilla of Mecaenas andtheTempio Sect. II. TIVOLI. 381 della Tosstf amongst the ancient ; the Villa d'Este, the Old Castle, and the Cathedral, amongst the modern. The Villa of Mecamas is the most ex tensive ruin about Tivoli ; the name it now bears rests on no classical autho rity, and dates from the time of Pirro Ligorio. It is generally considered to have formed a portion of the lower porticoes which constituted the ap proaches to the great Temple of Her cules, that occupied a large portion of the space covered by the modern town, as we shall see the Temple of Fortune did at Praeneste. The present ruins consist of massive substructions, since converted partly into the iron works, and of the remains of a square atrium, which was surrounded by a Doric portico, with a temple on the raised space in the centre. The Via Constantina, or road leading from the Ponte Lucano to Tivoli, passed under the long covered way or corridor now occupied by the forges and mills of the ironworks. These ruins were converted by Lucien Buonaparte into workshops, where large quantities of bars and other articles in iron are still manufactured. The visitor ought to ascend to the ter race over the works to enjoy the view of the valley, and from which a gate leads into the garden, round which may be seen the ruins of the Doric portico above mentioned. The Tempio della Tosse, on the rt. of the Via Constantina, and a short way below the iron-works. The singular designation of Temple of the Cough appears to date from the 16th cent., and to be a corruption ofthe name of Turcia, a family of whom it was probably the sepulchre, and which, from an inscrip tion relative to the repairs of the road, had existed here in the 4th centy., Lucius' Arterius Turcius having exe cuted this work in the reigns of Con stans and Constantius. The Tempio della Tosse is a circular edifice covered with a dome having an opening to admit the light in the centre, like the Pan theon ; around are circular niches — one, on the rt. of the entrance, has on its stuccoed walls traces of early Chris tian paintings representing the Sa viour and the Virgin, which led some antiquaries to consider the edifice as a Christian temple. The general form and the style of the masonry bear so great a resemblance to the tomb of S. Helena, the modern Tor Pignatarra (see p. 416), that it is more probable it was intended for a sepulchral monu ment ; and the best authorities now consider that it was erected about the same period as that of the mother of Constantine, and contained the ashes of the Turcia family. Although smaller in its dimensions, it is very similar in form, in its vaulted roof, and semicir cular niches, with their intermediate open spaces, to the so-called Temple of Minerva Medica on the Esquiline in Rome (see p. 41). The Cascatelle, a series of pretty cas cades formed by the waters of the Anio, which are diverted from the main stream above where it enters the tunnel under Monte Catillo, and after they have served the purposes of the many mills in Tivoli, and the iron manufactories. The first and largest stream forms two cascades ; the other those which issue from the Villa of Mecaenas, and fall into the valley from a very considerable height. The effect of these cascades, contrasted with the brilliant vegetation which at all seasons borders them, the rich colour ing of the massive brickwork of the villa, and of the town in the back ground, is one of the most beautiful amongst the many lovely landscapes of this splendid panorama. Of the many villas of the Roman period which existed about Tibur, the sites of only a few can now be deter mined. The church of the Madonna di Quintiliolo is built on the ruins of the Villa of Quintilius Varus, com memorated by Horace : its situation on the slopes of Monte Peschiavatori is one of the most beautiful that can he imagined: the ruins are of great ex tent, and the upper terrace commands a fine view of the Villa of Mecaenas, the Cascatelle, and the Campagna of Rome, extending in fine weather to the sea. The magnificence of the villa is 382 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome. proved by the numerous statues, mo saics, and other works of art which have been found among its ruins, many of which have been already noticed in our description of the Vatican and other museums. The other villas which are known to have existed at Tivoli, and of which the local antiquaries profess to point out the sites, are those of Vopis- cus, Piso, Cassius, Munatius Plancus, Ventidius Bassus, Fuscus, Propertius, &c. With the exception of the Villa of Cassius, many of the names given these ruins are merely conjectural, and it would be an unprofitable task to follow the speculations upon which, more or less, their authenticity depends. The walls which support the terraces of the supposed villas of Brutus and of Bassus are polygonal ; and that of Fuscus, below the Strada di Carciano, is a fine specimen of Roman work, more than 100 ft. in length. At Carciano, under the Casino of the Greek College, are all that remains of the Villa of Cassius. The ruins of this noble villa are still very extensive, and have con tributed largely to the principal mu seums of Europe. In the 16th century Cardinal Ferdinando de' Medici and Archbishop Bandini of Siena made considerable excavations and brought to light many beautiful specimens of ancient art The researches of De Angelis in 1774 were still more im portant : the statues and marbles which he discovered were purchased by Pius VI. for the Vatican, and are justly classed among the valuable trea sures of that museum. Nearly all the statues and busts in the Hall of the Muses at the Vatican were found here, together with many others which have been noticed in our description of the Museo Pio-Clementino. We have already mentioned the Villa of Vo- piscus, near the modern cascades. There is no clue to enable us to dis cover where the Villa of Horace stood, although placed by the local ciceroni near the chapel of S. Antonio. Near to the entrance of Tivoli, by the Porta Santa Croce, is the Villa d'Este, built in 1549 from the designs of Pirro Ligorio for Cardinal Ippolito d'Este, son of Alfonso JL, duke of Fer rara : it belongs to the Duke of Modena as successor of that celebrated family. Though picturesquely situated, it is now in a great measure uninhabited. The casino, decorated with frescoes by Federigo Zucchero, Muziano, and others, represents events in the his tory of Tivoli. Its formal planta tions and clipped hedges find few admirers after the natural beauties of the surrounding scenery ; and the wa terworks, called the Girandola, are now justly regarded as a strange perversion of taste in the neighbourhood of the grand cascades. Notwithstanding these defects, the beautiful ilexes and cy presses of the gardens make them a favourite resort of artists and of picnic parties, and the prospect from the ter race over the expanse of the Campagna is one ofthe finest scenes in Tivoli. No thing can come up to the view of the setting sun on an April or May even ing from this charming spot. The Casino and the gardens are liberally thrown open to the public. Near the Villa d'Este stands the church of St. Francesco, once a Gothic edifice, but entirely modernized in the interior, only the principal door, with a canopy over it, surmounted by the shield of a cardinal ofthe house of Anjou (1393), and a pointed arch under the gallery remaining, of the original architecture. Outside the Porta di Santa Croce is the College of the Jesuits, from the terrace in front of which, called La Veduta, opens one of the finest pano ramic views over the Campagna, with Rome in the distance, and in fine weather even the sea in the back ground ; a little way beyond this is the Villa Braschi, from which this splen did panorama is still more extensive. This villa, the property of the grand- nephew of Pius VI., is built over the Aqueduct of the Anio Novus, which may be well seen in the wine-cellars beneath ; those of the Anio Vetus and Aqua Marcia running at a lower level, close to the modern road leading to Carciano. The specus or channel, 9 ft. high by 4 wide, had become choked up with calcareous incrustations ; where this has been removed its fiue Roman brick-work lining may be seen. Sect. II. SUBIACO. 383 Of medioj^al Tivoli the most re markable monument is the Castle, erected in its present form by Pius II. ; it is near the Porta Santa Croce, and may be visited on leaving the town ; it consists of an enclosure surrounded by five circular towers, which form very picturesque objects in the view of the town, from the road leading to Su- biaco, and from that between Quin tiliolo and the chapel of S. Antonio. Beyond the Porta S. Giovanni, lead ing to Subiaco, about ^ m. distant, are the remains of a circular tomb supposed to be that of C. Aufestius Soter, a phy sician, whose inscription was found near the spot. About \ m. farther, the road to Ampiglione, the ancient Empulum, passes under the arches of the Marcian aqueduct, where it crosses the valley, and near this the specus of the Anio Vetus is visible. Further on we see the magnificent arches of the Claudian aqueduct, surmounted by a tower of the middle ages, built by the Tiburtines as a defence against the attacks of the Orsinis, lords of Castel Madama : they are 45 ft. high and 25 ft. in span. Travellers who are desirous of ex ploring the classical sites of the Sabine hills should make Tivoli their head quarters for some days, and arrange a series of excursions to the most interest ing localities. It would be impossible within the limits of a work of this kind to describe the numerous objects of historical interest and natural beauty for which every valley in the neighbour hood is remarkable. Many of these sites are celebrated by Horace, and others still retain in their names and ruins the traces of cities whose origin is anterior to that of Rome. The most interesting excursions from Tivoli will be to Su biaco, up the valley of the Anio ; to Licenza, and the site of Horace's Sabine farm; to Ampiglione, the ancient Em pulum; to St. Angelo, Monticelli, and Palombara; and the ascent of Monte Genaro. The road to Subiaco, follow ing for some miles the Via Valeria, is good the whole way, and practi cable for carriages; but that to Li cenza and the ascent of Monte Genaro must be accomplished for several miles on horseback or on foot. The pedes trian will find an endless source of enjoyment in the mountains around Tivoli, provided, as he now can be, with the excellent topographical sur veys published by the French and Austrian Governments. There is now a very good road from Tivoli to Palestrina by which this in teresting town can be reached in 3J hours ; it passes near the Villa Adriana, an dalong the base ofthe hills, through a picturesque country, by way of Passerano, with its fine old castle, a fief of the Barberinis, near to Gallicano, and through Zagarolo ; beyond which it joins the Via Labicana, or high road from Rome by La Colonna ; from thence to Palestrina, 4 m. By means of this new road, practicable even for heavy carriages, the tourist can visit Palestrina without returning to Rome and going twice over the same ground. Subiaco, 26 m. from Tivoli, and 44 from Rome. The road, which is very good for carriages, during the whole distance ascends along the rt. bank of the Anio. (A public conveyance leaves Tivoli daily for Subiaco on the arrival of the early coach from Rome.) On leaving Tivoli it runs round the base of Monte Catillo, presenting on its sides nu merous fragments of ancient walls in Opus reticulatum. About 1 m. beyond the town, u portion of the Claudian aqueduct, consisting of several arches crowned by a square tower, spans the valley on the rt. leading to Ampiglione. At the 4th m. a bridle-road strikes off (on the 1.) to Santo Polo, a mountain village perched on the declivity of the Apennine above, and by which the ascent to Monte Genaro is most con veniently effected. Between the 5th and 6th m. from Tivoli, Castel Ma dama, a large village, rises on an emi- 384 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome. nence beyond the Anio, and soon after close to the road the ruined mediae val fortress of Sacco Muro, built on a. monticule of volcanic tufa. Near this, but on the opposite side of the Anio, are seen some arches of the Claudian aqueduct spanning the torrent which washes the E. base of the hill on which stands Castel Madama ; and a short dis tance farther, on the road-side, has been placed an inscription discovered here in 1821, recording the name of C. Maenius Bassus, praefect of the Fabbri (chief engineer) at Carthage, under Marcus Silanus, the father-in-law of Caligula, whose name is so often mentioned by Tacitus. The tomb of Bassus stood probably near this spot, judging from the numerous fragments of marble found around. At this place the geologist will remark a very interesting superposition of the semi- columnar volcanic conglomerate on the ancient travertine breccia of the valley ofthe Anio. At the 7th m. from Tivoli is Vicovaro, the ancient Varia* with a population of 3000 Inhab. ; the road runs at the foot ofthe hill of travertine and calcareous breccia on which the village stands. Some portions of the ancient walls may be seen on ascending from the ch. of St. Antonio, on the roadside, to the town, of very fine construction, formed of huge oblong blocks of travertine, some of which measure 160 cubic ft. The style is entirely similar to that of the walls of the Tabularium at Rome, but more colossal in the dimensions of the blocks. In the upper town is a beau tiful octagonal chapel, dedicated to St. James, in the Italian Gothic style of the 15th centy. ; it was built for one of the Orsinis of the branch of the counts of Tagliaeozzo, from the designs of Simone, a pupil of Brunelleschi, who, according to Vasari, died here when engaged on the work. The front turned towards the E. is decorated with small statues of saints ; the interior has been modernized, except the Gothic pilasters in the angles, and the two Gothic windows on the sides. Vicovaro is a fief of the Bolognetti family, who have a large straggling palace in it, built on the ruins of a mediaeval castle. 1^ m. from Vicovaro is the church and convent of San Cosimato, on a narrow elevated platean between the rivers Licenza and Anio, and beneath which, at a considerable depth, the latter river runs in a most picturesque ravine : in the vertical cliffs of travertine whicli form its sides are several curious ca verns, in one of which St. Benedict is said to have passed some time. From S. Cosimato a good road of 1 m. (on 1.), after crossing the Licenza, leads to Cantalupo Bardella, on a hill, occupy ing the place ofthe Mandela of Horace ; the large palace on the site of its baronial castle belongs to the Marquis of Roccagiovine. A short distance from San Cosimato, the Licenza (here called Petescia) torrent is crossed on a modern bridge near its junction with the Anio. Some very ancient sepulchral openings have recently been discovered near here, containing human bones, and numerous flint implements, remarkable for their careful execution , arrow-heads, knives, &c, with re mains of domestic animals, and which are evidently anterior to the earliest period of Rome. The wide valley beyond the latter river, on the rt., is that of Sambucci, up which a bridle path leads to Ciciliano, the ancient Cicelion, and from thence across a mountain pass to Genazzano. The mountains on the 1. bank of the Teve rone hereabouts are wooded. Opposite the 10th m. from Tivoli, and perched like an eagle's nest on a conical peak at a height of 2500 ft. above the river, is the village of Saracinesco, with 600 Inhab., in a most singular and inaccessible position. This town is said to have been founded by a colony of Saracens, after their defeat in the 9th centy. by Berengarius; and it is remarkable that many of the inhab. have preserved their Arabic names : se veral ofthe mountaineers in picturesque costumes seen at Rome during the win ter, and who loiter about the Piazza di Spagna, offering their services as painters' models, come from this village. The valley of the Anio was desolated by the incursions of the Saracens about the year 876, and there is no doubt that a party of the invaders formed a settle- Sect. II. 385 ment on thinepot, as the name occurs in an inscription of the year 1052, in a list of the possessions of the monastery of Santa Scolastica at Subiaco, now in one of the cloisters there, under the designation of Saraceniscum. The valley widens before reaching the Os teria o t la Ferrata or La Spiaggia, the halfway halting-place between Tivoli and Subiaco ; the village of La Scarpa § m. on 1. 2 m. beyond this, and perched upon a hill on the 1., is the vil lage of Roviano, with a feudal eastle be longing to the Sciarra family, to whom it gives the title of prince. From this point the valley bends to the S.S.E. as far as Subiaco. 1 m. beyond Roviano the Via Sublacensis separates from the Valeria, the latter branching off on the 1., the former continuing along the rt. bank of the Anio to Subiaco. The Via Valeria, after passing by Arsoli, a fief of the Massimos, soon reaches the Neapolitau frontier at il Passo di Ritorto and Cava liere, and continues through Carsoli, the ancient Corseoli, into the Abruzzi (see Handbook for S. Italy, I?te. 144). Itis the most direct road from Rome to the lake of Fucino, but is to be travelled only on horseback or in the common cars ofthe country, as far as Tagliaeozzo. The papal frontier-station is at the village of Arsoli. The road from Roviano to Subiaco is beautiful. On the 1. bank of the Anio, nearly opposite to Roviano, is Anticoli, and near the river, and farther on, the village of Marano, a short way beyond which the road passes below Agosta, a. picturesque village ; before reaching which are the springs called Le Sirenc, which burst in large volumes of bright crystal water from the base of the mountains at a temperature of 8J per cent. ; these springs form the principal sources of the Modern Aque duct of the Acqua Pia : the ancients believed that they were derived through subterranean channels from the lake of Fucino. Beyond Agosta, on a peak 3300 feet high, and apparently inac cessible, is the populous village of Cer * tiara, close to the Neapolitan frontier, and on the opposite side of the Anio the towns of Canterano and of Rocca Canterano towering over it on the 1., and out ofthe reach of the malaria which [.Rome.] desolates the lower grounds in the au tumn. Subiaco is seen for the first time from about here ; nothing can be more picturesque than its position among the richly-wooded hills by which it is surrounded. Subiaco (Inns : Locanda della Pernice, kept by Gori, very good, with a most attentive landlord ; the L. dell' Europa, civil people. Very fair quarters for persons intending to make a stay at Subiaco may be procured in the sup pressed convent or Casa della Missione, which has been fitted up comfortably by Francesco Malagricci, a civil and obliging man — Col. A., April, 1859. This house is not far from the Pernice), the ancient Sublaqueum (Simbruina Stagna), is the chief town of a distretto of the Comarca, with a population of 6330 souls. It derived its ancient name from the 3 artificial lakes ofthe Villa of Nero, below which (sub lacu) it was built. The modern town is more remarkable for the beauty of its situation, which can be seen from its Public Walk, thau for any object of interest within its walls. The falls of the river below the town, the fine old castle on the summit of the hill, which for many ages was the summer residence of the popes, the magnificent forests of the valley, and the noble monasteries which have given it such celebrity in the ecclesiastical history of the middle ages, all combine to make it one of the favourite resorts of the landscape-painters in the sum mer. The dark and narrow streets of the town itself are by no means inviting to the stranger ; the houses have an air of antiquity which carries us back to the middle ages more than any other town in the vicinity of Rome. The church was built by Pius VI., who was abbot of the monastery for many years before his elevation to the pontificate : the palace of the abbots was also en larged and modernised by the same pontiff. About a mile from the town, on a hill above the river, we may still trace the ruins of Nero's Villa. It was here, as we are told by Tacitus, that the supper of the tyrant was struck by lightning while he was in the act of feasting, and the table thrown down S 386 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. by the shock. Near this is the cele brated Monastery of Santa Scolastica, founded in the 5th century, and restored in 981 by the abbot Stephanus. It has 3 cloisters : the first is of recent date, but contains some ancient monuments ; among which may be noticed a sarcor phagus with bacchanalian bas-reliefs, a bacchic head, a fine column of por phyry and another of giallo antico, said to have been found in the ruins of Nero's villa. The second cloister dates from 1052, and is very interesting as one of the earliest examples of the pointed style of architecture : one of the arcades is of marble, ornamented with bas-reliefs, and surmounted by a statue ofthe Virgin throned between 2 lions. Under the portico is a curious relief of a stag and a wolf drinking ; an inscription recording the founda tion of the church in 981 ; another relates to the construction ofthe tower, and enumerates the possessions of the monastery in 1053. The third cloister, as well as the Refectory, was erected by Abbot Lando, in 1 235 ; the mosaics on the arcade of the cloister are by the Co- simatis. The ch., dedicated to S. Scolas tica, contains nothing which calls for particular notice ; consecrated originally by Benedict VIL, in 981, it was com pletely altered in the last century : be neath, in the crypt, is a finely painted chapel, in which are preserved the re mains of a venerable Bede, a Genoese, not our countryman, who lies at Durham. The monastery was once famous for its library, rich in MSS. and charters. Nearly all these have been dispersed ; but it has obtained a cele brity in the history of typography as the first place in Italy in which the printing-press was established by the Germans Sweynheim and Pannartz. Their edition of Lactantius was their first production : it appeared in 1465, and a copy is still preserved in the monastery. They remained at Su biaco until 1467, when they removed to Rome. l£m. from S. Scolastica is the Sacro Speco, the well-known monas tery of St. Benedict. The ascent is steep, and the scenery is grand. St. Benedict retired here about a.d. 450, when only 14 years old. The monastery was rebuilt in 847 ; the lower ch. dates from 1053, the upper from 1066, and the cloister from 1235. It is built against the rocky hill on 9 arches of considerable height, and consists of 2 long stories. The cavern in the lower part, the retreat of St. Benedict, is supposed to be of great antiquity, and is identified by some authorities with an oracle of Faunus. A huge mass of rock overhangs the monastery, where it is believed to be miraculously sus pended : it was over it that Romanus is said to have lowered his food to St. Benedict, when he retired to this cavern. The chapel of St. Lawrence, leading to it, was painted in 1 2 1 9 by Consolo, one of the earliest Italian masters, who has re corded his name in " Conxolus pinxit." This painter, who preceded Cimabue by some years, is supposed to have come from Greece. In the chapel of San Gregorio, in another part of the Speco, the paintings represent the Consecra tion of the ch. by Gregory the Great, with the figure of the monk Odo. In other chapels of the Sacro Speco are some paintings worthy of notice. Rude sketches on the sides of the lower grotto, in the style of what we see in the catacombs, may date 'from the 6th centy. ; those of the middle and upper chapels, of scenes in the lives of St. Benedict and Santa Scolastica, are of the 15th. In the little Chapel of S. Lorenzo Loricato is a Virgin and Child, with S. Gregory, by Stammatico, a Greek painter, which, if it did not bear the date (1479), we might from its style attribute to a considerably earlier period. The architecture is pointed, and by many attributed to so early as the 10th centy. ; if so, the oldest specimen of what has been called the Gothic style in Italy. The gar den below is still remarkable for its plantations of roses, said to be descended from those which St. Benedict culti vated. Another legend states that they were originally a bed of thorns on which St. Benedict rolled himself to extinguish the violence of his passions, and were miraculously converted into roses by St. Francis when he visited the monastery in 1223. On the oppo site bank of the river is the picturesque Sect. II. Horace's sabine farm, and monte genaro. 387 mass of tflonte Carpineto, covered with hornbeams (carpini), from which it de rives its name. On the slopes of the hill are ruins of a Nymphaeum, sup posed to belong to Nero's Baths. From Subiaco a bridle-road, afford ing a very delightful ride of 4 hours, leads over the lower slopes of Monte Carpineto to the pioturesque towns of Olevano and Genazzano by Affile (which has preserved unaltered its ancient name). Olevano is about 13 m. and Genazzano 17 m. from Subiaco ; but as they are more generally visited from Palestrina, we shall reserve our account of them for our excursion to the latter place ; a carriage-road is now in pro gress to Palestrina, passing near Civi- tella, the ancient Vitellia, from which there is a noble view over the Cam pagna and the mountains of the Hernici : this road will soon be con tinued to Genazzano and Palestrina: the scenery along it is very beautiful. An agreeable excursion up the valley of the Anio can be made in a day to Trevi, the Trebia or Augusta Treba of the Romans, a town of the Equi, once of some importance from being placednear the frontier of the Hernici : there are some Roman fragments in the piazza. From Trevi the tourist could prolong his explorations into the country of the Hernici, to the Certosa of Trisulti, passing by Guarcino a large village, by Alatri and Collepardo, near the latter visiting the celebrated grotto, and the remarkable depression called the Pozzo di Antullo ; returning to Rome from Alatri by Fererrtino, Anagni, &c. (See Handbook for South Italy, Route 40.) Another very agreeable excursion may be made during the spring or summer months from Subiaco into the moun tains extending to the Neapolitan frontier, leaving the town by the Ma donna della Croce, and passing the cb. of the Capucins through the high plains at the foot of Monte Livata and Campo d' Ossa, 4 m. beyond which the path passes along the Monte Au- tore, one of the highest peaks in this part of the Apennines. From here abouts the views are splendid, ex tending on the one side over the valley of the Anio and the Campagna to the sea; and on the other embracing the Lake of Fucino, the Monte Velino, and the central chain on the N. to the Terminillo Grande. On one of the spurs of the Autore is a chapel dedi cated to the Holy Trinity, a place of great resort during the month of June by the mountaineers of the Abruzzi, close to one of the highest sources of the Vairone and Anio, on the banks of which is the hamlet of Valle Pietra. The scenery is very picturesque here abouts. Through the valley on the N. of Monte Autore, called Campo di Pietra, runs the Fiojo torrent, one of the highest branches of the Turano, a tributary of the Velino. This excur sion must not be attempted without experienced guides, which may be procured at Subiaco. At present this region is very unsafe from the lawless bands that infest it. Horace's Sabine Farm,* and Monte Genaro. The distance from Tivoli to the Sabine Farm of Horace is 1 1 m. The road, as far as Vicovaro, is described in * The description of the site of Horace's Farm given in the text is on the authority of Cbapuy, whose ideas were adopted by Gell -and Nibby without a sufficient examination of the localities. Recent researches of a very laborious and con scientious topographer, Sig. Rosa, place the poet's villa near the Capella della Casa, on a kind of plateau at the foot of the Monte Corri- gnaleto, which Sig. Rosa considers to be Horace's Lucretilis. This site is at a short distance from Roccagiovine, and near the ancient road that led from Favum Vacunm to Tibur; it certainly corresponds better with the " Arduos Sabinos," with the " Montes " and " in .Arcem," and with the "Ha?c tibi dictabam post Fanum Putre Vacuna " of the poet, than the low situation nearer Licenza. Another strong confirmation of Signor Rosa's view is the existence of the perennial and abundant spring still known to the peasantry as the Fontana degli Oratini, which gushes out at a short distance from the Madonna della Casa. The reader will find a notice on this interesting piece of antiquarian topography, by M. Noel des Vergers, in Didot's small and beautiful edition of Horace's works, published at Paris in 1855, accompanied by maps and photographic views of the localities. S 2 388 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. the preceding excursion ; beyond which a new one, practicable for carriages, has been recently carried as far as Rocca Giovine, from which the journey must he performed oh horseback or on foot. R. Giovine, 3 m. from Vicovaro, is situated on a steep rock above the road, and supposed to be the ancient Arx Junonis (Rocca Giunone). Near the ch. is preserved an inscription recording the restoration of a Temple of Victory by Vespasian. Antiquaries regard this as a proof that it is the Fanum Va- cunae, or the Temple of Juno Vic- trix, celebrated by Horace, which would confirm the etymology of the modern name. On the opposite side of the torrent is seen Cantalupo, Horace's Mandela, between which and the Li cenza are fragments of polygonal walls, supposed to be the substructions of a temple. About 2 m. beyond Rocca Giovine, farther up the valley, is Licenza, the ancient Digentia, — " Me quoties reficit gelidus Digentia rivus, Quern Mandela bibit rugosus frigore pagus." Ear. Ep. I. xviii.— a mountain -village of 930 Inhab., beautifully situated on a hill above the bright clear stream which Horace celebrates under the same name. The site of the villa of Horace is placed by some on the rt.of the road, about midway between it and the river, a short dis tance before we reach the village. Little now remains but some fragments of a white mosaic pavement partly covered by a vineyard. There are 3 terraces and some massive substructions of a more magnificent villa, and of a later date, on the site of that of the poet. The names of many places in the neighbourhood preserve some record of classical times: gli Orasini, or Oratini, on the slopes of the Monte Rotondo, cannot be mistaken: and La Rustica, on the rt. side of the valley as we ascend, recalls the Ustica of the poet : — " Utcunque dulci, Tyndari. fistula Valles, et UsticBe cubantis Lawia personuere Saxa." Od. I. 17. Higher up the valley, in a romantic spot under Monte Cornazzano, are two springs, identified by some antiquaries with the Fons Blandusiae : — " 0 FonB Blandusiae, splendidior vitro Dulci digne mero, non sine fioribus Cras donaberis hoedo." Od. HI. 13. 1 m. beyond Licenza is the village of Civitella, from which a bridle-path leads over the mountains to Palombara, 6 m. distant. The Ascent of Monte Genaro is made more conveniently from Rocca Giovine than from any other point in the valley of the Licenza. The excur sion to Monte Genaro from Tivoli will require 4 or 5 hours, for which guides are easily obtained ; the hire of horses for the journey is 5 francs, and the guides will expect 2 or 3. Those who ascend direct from Tivoli follow the route taken by the peasants in going to the festa of the Pratone, the mea dow between the two summits of the mountain. They take the road leading to Santo Polo, situated 2250 ft. above the sea. The road here ceases, and we follow for some distance a bridle-path commanding fine views of the valley of the Licenza, and at length strike into the forest beneath the singular insulated limestone mass of Monte della Morra. The last ascent to the Pratone from this side is steep, but the opening of the plain is so beautiful, that the contrast of scenery renders it by no means the least interesting portion of the journey. The ascent from the side of Licenza to the Pratone is less dif ficult, and follows the depression in the chain between the Monte Morica on the rt. and Monte Rotondo. The Pratone is celebrated for its pastures, and the tra veller will generally find it covered with cattle. The annual festa at its little chapel is attended by the peasantry from all parts of the Sabine hills. From this plain we ascend to the summit of Monte Genaro, which is 41 65 feet above the sea, and, with the exception of Monte di Semprevisa (5038 ft.), above Rocca Mas sima, is the highest point of the chain which bounds the Campagna on the E. There is no doubt that the Mons Lucre- tilis, which Horace has celebrated in his beautiful ode already quoted, was one of the peaks of this ridge, and many writers identify it with Monte Genaro Sect. II. FRASCATI. 389 itself. 'The view commanded during the ascent over the immense plains of the Campagna is one of the finest in Italy, and will amply repay the fatigue of the excursion. It embraces the line of coast as far as Monte Circello, the line of the Volscian mountains beyond the Alban hills, and commands nearly all the valleys of the Apennines from the Neapolitan frontier to Soracte and the Monte Cimino on the N.W. On the summit is a pyramid of loose stones, used as a trigonometrical sta tion by Boscovich, in his trigonome trical survey of the Papal States. Travellers who are desirous to vary their route in returning to Tivoli may descend by the pass called La Scar- pellata, a mountain zigzag, con structed in parts with solid masonry. During the descent we command some fine views of the small group of hills which stand detached from the Sabine chain, and form so conspicuous an object from Rome. On one of their summits is the picturesque town and castle of Monticelli ; on another the village of Sant' Angelo, in Capoccia, the ancient city of Medullia. The pass leads down to the hollow called La Mar- cellina, at the foot of the Monte Morra. Near this are some fine examples of poly gonal walls. Farther on we pass the ruins of a Roman villa at a spot oalled Scalza- cane, opposite to which are the low hills named the Colli Farinelli. Between them and the road is a small valley, in which we may still see some ruins of a temple, and a cippus with the in scription — L. MVNATIVS . PLANCVS . TIB. COS. IMP. INTER .VII. VR. EPVLON . TRIVMPH . EX . RHflETIS . EX . TEMPLO. SATVRNI . ET . COS . IMP . EXERCITI . IN Italia . et . gallia. The name ofthe temple is no doubt that given in this in scription, which records the name of an illustrious Roman, whom the beautiful lines of Horace have made familiar to the scholar : — " Sic tu sapiens finire memento Tristitiam vitaaque lahores Molli Plance, mero : seu te fulgentia signis Castra tenent, seu densa tenebit Tiburis umbra tui." Od.1.1. Beyond this we leave the convent of Vitriano on the rt., and enter the valley of the Anio through the fine groves of olives which clothe the slopes of the Monte di Quintiliolo, as far as the Ponte dell' Acquoria. The excursion from Licenza to Pa- lombaro is by a bridle-road, passing by the Fonte Blentusia, and to the foot of Monte Genaro: from the summit of the mountain a path more to the N. than that to Marcellina and Tivoli descends near the Romitorio di S. Nicola, through a rocky ravine. To the geologist this excursion will prove most interesting, as affording an excellent section of the secondary strata so rarely found together and within so limited a space in the Southern Apennines. Leaving Licenza, the path crosses suc cessively the lias and oolitic strata ; the second forming the most elevated point of Monte Genaro, the neocomian and cretaceous strata being entirely want ing. In the depression separating Palom- baro from the group of St. Angelo and Monticelli will be found the pliocene or subapennine series (well characterised at Formello on the road from Monticelli to Rome), whilst the hills on which these 3 towns are so picturesquely situated are formed of a compact limestone, in places changed into dolomite, and con taining well-characterised fossils (am monites and a species of aptycus) of the age of our British lias and inferior and middle oolites. — See p. 32S. Frascati, 12 m. Since the completion of the railway the excursion to Frascati, including a visit to the ruins of Tusculum, and to Grotta Ferrata, can be easily performed in a day, by leaving Rome by an early train and returning by the latest. [An excursion of 2 or 3 days will enable the tourist, even parties of ladies, to explore very conveniently the different localities about the Alban hills, and in the following order, commenc ing with Frascati: — 1st day, Frascati, 390 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. the ruins of Tusculum, the extinct crater of la Molara, the different villas about Frascati, and especially the Villa Aldobrandini : 2nd day, By starting early the party can breakfast at Grotta Ferrata or Marino, visiting the ch. of the Basilian convent at the former, and the valley of the Aqua Ferentiua close to the latter town; aud proceed from thence (on foot or horseback) by the supposed site of Alba Longa to Rocca di Papa and Monte Cavo, descend ing afterwards to Albano by the convent of Palazzuola : 3rd day, Castel Gan- dolfo, the Emissarium of the Alban Lake, and Lariccia by the road leading from the convent of the Cappuccini of Albano ; from Lariccia we would advise the pedestrian to follow the Via Appia below the town on his way to Genzano, which will enable him to examine the massive substructions over which it was carried, and the opening of the Emis sarium of the lake of Nemi beyond, and arrive in an hour at Genzano: from Genzano a forenoon will be suffi cient to see the lake and town of Nemi and to return to Albano or even to Rome to sleep : visiting on his way the viaduct of Genzano, the still more gigan tic one between Lariccia and Albano, and the Tomb of Aruns: a 4th day may be well spent at Albano, com bining excursions to Civita Lavinia, the ruins of Bovillae, and Castel Sa velli, returning to Rome by the ancient Via Appia. Families would do well to engage a carriage at Rome for the whole excursion, the only part during which it cannot be used being the ascent to Monte Cavo, in which case it can be sent round to Albano.] The charge for a carriage with 2 horses, to go to Frascati and return to Rome on the same day, will be 30 frs., not including the coachman's buona- mano. Tourists may find it convenient to proceed in the first instance by railway to Frascati, where they will find vehicles for hire for the rest of the excursion. Trains perform the journey in J hr. ; carriages, horses, and donkeys are always in waiting at the Frascati terminus to convey them to the town. We shall describe, in the first instance, the carriage-road, which leaves Rome by the Porta S. Giovanni : for a few hun dred yards beyond the gate it follows the ancient Via Asinaria, the Via La tina running parallel on the rt. It soon after crosses the Mariana stream, and, passing over the raised causeway of the Via Appia Nova to Albano, branches off on the 1. About 3 m. from the gate we pass under the arch of the Acqua Felice, called the Porta Furba, constructed on the line of the Claudian and Marcian aqueducts, a short .way beyond which and on the 1. is the lofty tumulus of the Monte del Grano, supposed without a shadow of authority to be the sepul chre of Alexander Severus. It is an im mense mound, 200 ft. in diameter at the base, which is constructed of masonry. Towards the end of the 16th century it was explored from the summit: an entrance was made by removing the stones of the vaulted roof, and a sepul chral chamber was discovered con taining the magnificent sarcophagus of white marble which gives its name to one of the rooms in the museum of the Capitol, and is noticed in our account of that collection (p. 265). The cele brated Portland Vase, preserved in the British Museum, was found in this sarcophagus. The road crosses the rail way immediately beyond the Porta Furba. About 1^ m. beyond the tu mulus, on the rt. hand, and on the line of the Via Latina, are some ruins, near the Osteria del Tavolato, interest ing as marking, in the opinion of modern antiquaries, the site of the temple of Fortuna Muliebris, erected in honour of the wife and mother of Corio- lanus, who here dissuaded him from his threatened attack on Rome. About 2\ m. beyond the Porta Furba are, on the rt. of the road, the ruins called the Sette Bassi, also Roma Vecchia di Frascati. The first name is supposed to be a corruption of Sep timius Bassus the consul, a.d. 317: it is interesting as marking the site of an imperial villa of great mag nificence and extent. The ruins now visible are at least 4000 ft. in circum ference : their construction shows two distinct periods; that portion towards Rome corresponds with the style of Sect. II. PRASCATI. 391 the buiWings under Hadrian, while that towards Frascati belongs to the time of the Antonines. Antiquaries generally agree in regarding it as a suburban villa of Hadrian or Commo- dus: the quantity of marble discovered among the foundations attests the splen dour of the edifice. Less than a mile farther is the Osteria del Curato, the half-way house, near which the road divides ; that on the rt. leads to Grotta Ferrata, and that to the 1. to Frascati. The large plantations of stone-pines seen on the 1. surround the farm of Torre Nuova, belonging to Prince Borghese. At the foot of the ascent. to Frascati is a handsome fountain, and a mile farther the Osteria di Vermicino : the ruins seen on the rt. belong to the Julian aqueduct. A road on the rt. leads to the Villa Midi, long, the resi dence of Cardinal York. The high road now crosses a valley, from which a long ascent brings us to Frascati. By Railway. — Leaving the centra] station, the railway passes the temple of Minerva Medica on the rt., and, cutting through the city wali near the Porta Maggiore, runs for some dis tance parallel to the aqueduct of the Acqua Felice until reaching the Monte di Grano, from which it follows the line of the Mariana stream in the direc tion of Marino, as far as the 9th m., where, suddenly changing its direc tion to E. by N., it runs along the foot of the hilly region that extends from Maririo to Frascati; near Ciampino it cuts through a lava-current, de scending from Marino by means of a tunnel, and from thence through a series of cuttings in the recent volcanic dejections of the Alban volcanoes, and through a lovely region of olive- grounds and vineyards, until reaching the station of Frascati in a very pic turesque situation, but at a distance of more than a mile from the town, and nearly 400 ft. below it. Carriages and donkeys are in attendance to convey the passengers, employing 20 minutes in the ascent. Frascati. — This town is prettily situated on one of the lower emi nences of the Tusculan hills, with a population of 5000 souls. (Inns: H. de Londres, in the Piazza, just within the Porta Romana.) Frascati is one of the favourite resorts of the Roman families during the villeggiatura season, and in the summer months every house is filled with company. English fami lies who spend the summer in this part of Italy prefer it to every other place in the neighbourhood of Rome : the climate is healthy, and the excursions in its neighbourhood, if not more beau tiful, are more accessible, than those in the vicinity of Tivoli. Frascati arose in the 13th century from the ruins of ancient Tusculum. The walls are built on the ruins of a villa of the time of Augustus, which is said to have afforded shelter to the inhabitants after the cruel destruction of their city by the Romans in 1191. The modern name is a corruption of Frascata, the appella tion given to the hill as early as the 8th century, as a spot covered with trees and bushes. The town itself is less re markable than the beautiful villas which surround it. Some of the older houses retain their architecture of the 14th and 15th centuries; the ch. of S. Rocco, formerly the cathedral of St. Sebastian, and still called the Duomo Vecchio, is supposed to have been built by the Orsinis, lords of Marino, in 1309. The Duomo Vecchio has a low campanile built in the Gothic style of the 14th centy. Near it is the old castle, now the Palazzo Vescovile, a build ing of the 15th, restored by Pius VI. The fountain near it bears the date 1480, and the name of Cardinal d'Estouteville, the ambassador of France and the founder of the ch. of S. Agos- tino at Rome, to whom the foundation of the castle is also attributed. The principal edifice of recent times is the Cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, from the designs of C. Fontana. It was com pleted under Clement XI., in 1700. It contains a mural monument erected by Cardinal York, who was for many years bishop of the diocese, to his brother Charles Edward, the young Pretender, who died Jan. 31, 1788, with the follow ing inscription : — Heic situs est Karolus Odoardus cui Pater Jacobus III., Rex 392 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome. Anglim, Scotia, Francwe, Hibernia, Pri mus Natorum, paterni Juris, et Regiw dignitatis successor et heres, qui domicilio sibi Romm delecto comes Albanyensis dictus est. Vixit annos 67 et mensem decessit in pace. — Pridie Hal. Feb. Anno 1788. The ch. of the Cappuccini, finely situated above the town, has some in teresting pictures : among these may be noticed a Holy Family, attributed to Giulio Romano ; a St. Francis, by Paul Brill ; and a Crucifixion by Muziano. In the sacristy is Guide's sketch for his celebrated picture of the Crucifixion over the high altar in the ch. of S. Lo renzo in Lucina at Rome. The only Roman remains at Frascati are a huge circular tomb, called the Sepulchre of Lucullus, in the road leading from the Porta Romana to Tusculum ; there is no authority for the ownership attributed to it. Villas. — The villas of Frascati, which constitute its most remarkable feature, date chiefly from the 1 7th century. The most important is the Villa Belvidere or Aldobrandini. Shortly before we arrive at the gate of this noble villa, by the road that leads to Tusculum, we pass on the 1. hand the small casino of the Villa Piccolomini, remarkable as the retreat in which Cardinal Baronius composed his celebrated Annals. The Villa Aldo brandini was built by Cardinal Pietro Aldobrandini, nephew of ClemeutVIII., after he had succeeded in attaching the duchy of Ferrara to the States of the Church. It was designed by Giacomo della Porta, and was the last work of that architect. The buildings were completed by Giovanni Fontana, and the waterworks were designed by the same artist and finished by Olivieri of Tivoli. From the extreme beauty of its position, and the extensive prospect which it commands over the Campagna, it was long known by the name of the Belvedere. Thevilla subsequently passed by inheritance into the Pamfili family, and in the last century became the pro perty of the Horgheses ; it now belongs to prince Aldobrandini, the head of a junior branch of that family. The casino, built upon a massive terrace, is richly decorated with marbles and frescoes by Cav. d' Arpino. The subjects of these paintings are taken from the Old Testament, and represent the death of Sisera, David and Abigail, the history ofthe Fall, the death of Goliath, and Judith. The walls of the anterooms are hung with maps of the manorial possessions of the house of Borghese. Opposite the entrance to the casino to wards the hill is a large hemicycle with two wings, and a fine cascade in the centre. Near it is a building called II Parnasso, once remarkable for its frescoes by Domenichino. It con tains a large relief of Parnassus with the different divinities, and a Pegasus. The water is made to turn an organ, one of those fantastic applications which seem to have been popular in the Roman villas of the period. The grounds of the villa can hardly be surpassed in picturesque beauty. At the extremity of the park Prince Aldobrandini has established a manufactory of pottery, the clay being derived from the decom posed volcanic ashes of the neighbour ing Tusculan volcanoes. — Villa Mont- alto, now the property of the college of the Propaganda, built on the ruins of an ancient villa towards the close of the 16th centy. The casino is deco rated with frescoes by the scholars of Domenichino, the Caracci and the Zuccheri. — The Villa Muti, the sup posed site of a villa of Cicero's, long inhabited by Cardinal York when Bishop of Frascati ; and the Villa Pal lavicini, nearer the plain and the high road. — The Villa Sora, belonging to Prince Piombino, above the railway station, in a charming situation, is celebrated as the residence of Gregory XIII., where took place the meetings for the reform of the Calendar dur ing his Pontificate. — Villa Conti, now Torlonia, situated outside the Porta Romana. The grounds, with the cas cade fountains, are very beautiful ; the views from the terrace in front over the Campagna and Rome magnificent. — Villa Taverna, about J m. beyond the town, on the road to Monte Porzio and Colonna, built by the cardinal of that name in the 16th centy., from the designs of Girolamo Rainaldi. It is the property of the Borghese family, Sect. II. TUSCULUM. 393 and one 9f their most frequented country seats ; it was the favourite residence of PaulV. Not far from here is the more extensive Villa Mondragone, also belonging to Prince Borghese, founded by Cardinal Altemps as an agreeable surprise to Gregory XIII. The casino, designed principally by Vansanzio, con tains no less than 374 windows. The grand loggia of the gardens was de signed by Vignola, the fountains and waterworks by Giovanni Fontana ; this villa, long uninhabited, is now under going repairs; a portion of it has been converted into a college under the direction of the Jesuits. — Villa Fal- conieri, formerly the Ruffina, the oldest of all the Frascati villas, founded by bishop Ruffini in 1548. The casino, built by Borromini, is remarkable for a ceiling painted by Carlo Maratta, and an interesting series of caricatures by Pier Leone Ghezzi. Villa Ruffinella, now belonging to Prince Lancelotti,and formerly to Lucien Buonaparte. The casino, built by Vanvitelli, is supposed to stand on the site of the Accademia of Cicero's villa. Under the portico are numerous inscriptions and other antique fragments discovered among the ruins of Tusculum. In one part of the grounds is a hill called Par nassus, arranged by Lucien Buona parte. On the slopes were planted in box the names of the most celebrated authors of ancient and modern times. In Nov. 1818 the Villa Ruffinella ob tained a disagreeable notoriety from a daring attack of banditti, who ob tained admission while the family were at dinner, intending to seize the daughter of Lucien Buonaparte, who was on the point of being married to prince Ercolani of Bologna. The family made their escape, but the brigands seized the secretary and two servants, and carried them off to the hills above Velletri, from which they were not re leased until the prince paid ¦* ransom of 6000 scudi. Tusculum. — This excursion, the most interesting about Frascati, can be made in a couple of hours, the distance being about 2 m. ; there are plenty of donkeys and horses for hire, the charge being 3 and 4 pauls. The tourist will do well to go by the road that passes by the Villas Ruffini, Taverna, and Mondra gone, and the convent of the Camaldoli ; and after visiting Tusculum, to return to Frascati by the Villa Ruffinella, the Capuccini, and the Villa Aldobrandini, thus embracing all the most remarkable sites about Frascati. The ruins of Tusculum occupy the crest of the hill above the Villa Ruffi nella. Its foundation is ascribed by the poets to Telegonus, the son of Ulysses and Circe : — Et jam Telegoni, jam Moenia Tiburis udi Stabant : Argolica; quod posuere Manus. Ovid, Fast. IV. Its position, fortified by Pelasgic walls of great solidity, was so strong as to resist the attacks of Hannibal, and the Romans set so high a value on its alii ance that they admitted its inhabitants to the privileges of Roman citizens. It afterwards became more memorable as the birthplace of Cato, and as the scene of Cicero's Tusculan Disputations. It is known that the city was entire at the close of the 12th century, when it embraced the Imperial cause, and for some years maintained a gallant struggle with Rome. In 1167, on the march of Frederick I. into the Papal States, the Romans attacked Tusculum in the name ofthe pope. Count Rainone of Tusculum was assisted by a Ghi- belline army under Raynaldus arch bishop of Cologne, and Christian arch bishop of Mayence : a general engage ment took place in the plain near the city (May 30, 1167), in which the Romans, 30,000 strong, were totally defeated, with great slaughter ; the Romans are stated to have left 2000 dead upon the field. Machiavelli says that Rome was never afterwards either rich or populous, and the contemporary historians confirm the accounts ofthe carnage by calling the battle the Cannae of the middle ages. The action lasted from 9 in the morning until night ; and on the next day, when the Romans came out to bury their dead, the count of Tusculum and the archbishop of Mentz surrounded them, and refused to grant the privilege of burial except s 3 394 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome. on the humiliating condition that they should count the number of the slain. In the following year the Romans again attacked the city, and the inhabit ants, abandoned by their count, sur rendered unconditionally to the pope (Alexander III.). The cause of the pope was not then 'the cause of the Roman people, and the surrender of Tusculum to the Church was regarded as an act of hostility by Rome, whose vengeance was deferred but not extin guished. The pope however repaired to Tusculum, which became for many years his favourite residence. It was here, in 1171, that he received the ambassadors sent by Henry II. of England to plead his innocence of the murder of fiecket. On the death of Alexander in 1181, Tusculum again became an imperial city. The Romans renewed their attacks, and in 1191 ob tained possession of the citadel by the cession of Celestin III., and put the inhabitants to the sword. They razed the houses to their foundations, destroyed the fortifications, and reduced the city to such a state of desolation that it was impossible to recover from its effects. No attempt was ever made to restore Tusculum on its ancient site, and Frascati, as we have already stated, rose from its ruins on the lower slopes. of the hills. A visit to the ruins is highly interesting : and the view alone is an inducement which even in this district of beautiful scenery will amply repay the trouble of the ascent. Pro ceeding from the Villa Ruffinella by a shady road, the ancient Via Tusculana, the first object of interest which we meet, in a depression between two hills overlooking the valley of the Ruffinella, is the Amphitheatre, of re ticulated work, 225 feet long and 166^ broad : the style does not show an anti quity corresponding to the other ruins, and it is regarded as the most recent Roman building of Tusculum yet dis covered. Near it, along a rising ground commanding a fine panoramic view over the Campagna, including Rome and the sea beyond Ostia, are extensive ruins, called by the local ciceroni the Villa di Cicerone. They formed, apparently, the substructions or ground floor of an ex tensive building; and are regarded, with some probability, as the lower part of a villa of Tiberius, which may have been built on the site of that of Cicero. Near this we find an ancient pavement formed of polygonal masses of lava, some, remains of baths, and the ground floor of a house with an atrium and cistern. Proceeding from the Amphi theatre along the ancient pavement, we arrive where a road strikes off on the 1. ; the road on the rt. leads to a wide open space, the supposed site of the Forum of Tusculum, behind which is the Theatre, the best preserved monu ment of the ancient city ; beyond it are fragments of the city walls. The thea tre was first excavated by Lucien Buo naparte, and afterwards, in 1839, by the queen of Sardinia ; it was a diurnal one, and is very perfect, most of the seats for the spectators, as well as the or chestra and scena, being well preserved. On one side of the theatre runs a. Ro man road, and on the other are some remains of steps, called by the ciceroni a theatre for children ; behind is a large subterranean piscina or cistern, which was arched over, the roof supported by 3 rows of piers. At the back of this reservoir rises abruptly the hill ou which stood the citadel ; its top is about 200 ft. above the level space of the city below, and 2218 above the sea. The site of the arx occupied an oval plateau, the sides of which descend precipitously on every side, and which have been in some places cut down for purposes of defence. It had two gates, one towards the west, which may be easily traced behind the theatre, and the other towards the valley and the Via Latina, excavated in the volcanic rock. From the sum mit the view is grand beyond de scription, and on a fine day there is scarcely a more interesting point from which one can gaze over the classical region of ancient Latium. Looking towards the N. we see the Camaldo- lese convent, beyond it Monte Porzio, and in the plain, between the Alban and Sabine mountains, the sites of Col- atia and Gabii; still farther on the whole range of the Sabine Apennines, with Tivoli, Monticelli, Palombara, Sect. II. TUSCULUM. 39c Soracte, and on the more distant hori zon the volcanic chain of Monte Ci- mino. Towards Rome stretches the great breadth of the Campagna, with the sea beyond, and the thickly wooded hills of Frascati with its villas in the foreground. In the opposite di rection, looking east, the eye extends over the whole Latin valley, separating the central mass of Monte Cavo and Monte Pila from the outlying range, on which Rocca Priora, Monte Com- patri, Monte Porzio, and Tusculum are situated. Closing in this valley on the E. is the Monte de' Fiori ; beyond which is easily made out the bluff of the Volscian mountains, on the sides of which stands the Pelasgic town of Segni ; more to the rt. the peak of Rocca Massimi in the same range, followed by Monte Pila, the Campo di Annibale, with Rocca di Papa, the long ridge of Alba Longa, and the more distant one of Castel Gandolfo, with Marino and Grotta-Ferrata on the declivity. The Via Latina is seen at our feet, passing by the farm of La Molara, bounded on either side by the farms of Prince Aldobrandini. The hill of the citadel of Tusculum is very interesting in a geological point of view ; formed chiefly of a volcanic conglomerate of yellow cinders, under which has risen a protruded mass^of lava, which con stitutes the precipice on the S. side. In the vicinity of this lava the volcanic conglomerate dipping N.W. has been so hardened, or baked, as to form a very solid rock, called by the Italian writers sperone, the lapis Tusculanus, and which is seldom met with elsewhere amongst the Latian volcanoes ; it is composed almost entirely of garnet, and is the stone used in all the sub- acent ruins, which has proved nearly as durable as travertine. There are traces of ancient edifices on the plateau of the citadel, which antiquariesidentify with temples known to have been erected to Jupiter Maxi mus, to Castor and Pollux, &c. &c. Descending from the Arx, at a short distance from the theatre, may be seen some good specimens of the walls of the ancient town, formed of square blocks of sperone, and of the gate, flanked by 2 fluted Doric pilasters, which led on the N. side of the forum to the Via Labicana. A milestone, marking the 15th m. from Rome, stands a little lower down. The road is paved with the ordinary polygonal blocks of lava : on its side is a fountain with an inscription recording its having been built by the Ediles Q. C. Latinus and Marcus Decimus, by order of the Senate ; close to it is a singular subterranean chamber, the roof in the shape of a pointed Gothic arch, formed like the gates of Arpino and Mycenae, of horizontal courses, laid so as to converge from below, and the projecting portions after wards cut away so as to form the ogive. This chamber, which served as a reservoir for water collected from sources under the hill of the cita del, has been considered one of the oldest constructions of Tusculum, ante rior to the use of the circular arch, and coeval with the Mamertine prisons at Rome, whilst the adjoining walls of the city are supposed to belong to the period when the lower town was founded, or when its population increasing de scended from the citadel above, after the destruction of Alba Longa, its rival, by Tullus Hostilius. The in troduction of the arch, properly so called, cannot be traced to an earlier period than the times of Tarquinius Priscus. The water was brought iuto this chamber by a conduit, 5^ ft. high and 2 ft. broad. About I m. from Tus culum the tourist can visit the Camal- doli, a. monastery beautifully situated. It was the retreat of Card. Passionei, who built for himself some cells on the plan of those occupied by the monks, decorated their walls with engravings, and converted a small spot of ground adjoining into a pretty garden, which he cultivated with great taste. He col lected in his garden no less than 800 inscriptions found among the ruins of Tusculum, and indulged his classical tastes by the addition of a valuable library. One of his frequent guests in this retreat was the Pretender, James III. of England. 396 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome. Grotta Ferrata, about 2 m. from Frascati, in the direc tion of Albano. The road is beautiful, passing through olive grounds and the fine old wood of Grotta Ferrata. The village, which contains 800 Inhab., is a mere dependency of the immense castellated monastery of S. Basilio. [Grotta Ferrata may also be reached by the road that branches off from that between Rome and Frascati near the Osteria del Curato, following the ancient Via Latina, or from the rly. stat. of Ciampino. At the 9th milestone the ascent commences through olive- grounds and vineyards, passing on the 1. some extensive ruins of the Julian aque duct, and, 2 m. farther, the old castle of Borghetto, an imposing mediaeval strong hold of the 10th centy. ; it belonged to the Savellis during the time of their power.] This monastery of Basilian monks of Grotta Ferrata is the only one of the order in the Papal States. Tra dition tells us that the place derives its name from an ancient grotto closed with an iron grating, in which a miraculous image of the Virgin, now in the church, was formerly preserved. The monastery was founded in the beginning of the 10th century by St. Nilus, who was invited- to Rome by the emperor Otho III., at the time when the shores of southern Italy were ravaged by the in cursions of the Sicilian Saracens. In the 15th century it was given by Sixtus IV., in commendam, to a cardinal ; and the first cardinal-abbot whom he ap pointed was his celebrated nephew Giuliano della Rovere, afterwards Ju lius II. This warlike prelate converted it into a fortress, strengthening it with towers, and surrounding the whole building with a ditch. His armorial bearings may be seen on various parts of the castle, and in the capitals of the columns in the palace ofthe abbot. The ch. was in part rebuilt in 1754 by Cardinal Guadagni, abbot of the monas tery. The vestibule, which is much more ancient, is remarkable for the bas- reliefs on the outer entrance, said to have belonged to the original monas tery of St. Nilus. The portion which forms the architrave appears to be part of an ancient sarcophagus, an imperial work, probably of the time of Septimius Severus. The door of the church belonged also to the old building erected in the 11th century. The Greek inscription over it, ex horting all who enter to put off im purity of thought, is perhaps of an earlier period. In the interior, on the vault over the high altar, are mosaics ofthe 12 apostles. In the right aisle is a curious Greek inscription, containing the names of the first 12 nyot/fcmi, or abbots, from the foundation of St. Nilus : the dates are reckoned in the Greek manner, from the creation ofthe world, 6513 being given instead of a.d. 1005, the year in which St. Nilus died. Another interesting monument of the middle ages is the sepulchral slab in the 1. aisle, with au eagle in mosaic, the armorial bearings of the counts of Tusculum. It is said to have belonged to the tomb of Benedict IX., who was a member of that family. The Chapel dedicated to St. Nilus and St. Bartholomew, both ab bots of this monastery, is celebrated for its frescoes by Domenichino. He was employed by Odoardo Farnese, while abbot, to decorate it, at the particular recommendation of his mas ter Annibale Caracci. He was then in his 29th year, as we learn from the date, 1610, which may be observed on the ceiling. These fine works have generally been classed among the masterpieces of Domenichino : they represent the acts and miracles of St. Nilus and St. Bartholomew. Begin ning from the 1. of the altar, the sub jects occur in the following order: — 1. The demoniac boy cured by the prayers of St. Nilus with oil taken by St. Bartholomew from the lamp of the Virgin. In the lunette is the death of St. Nilus, surrounded by the monks. 2. The Virgin in glory, surrounded by angels, giving a golden apple to the two saints. 3. The meeting of St. Nilus and the emperor Otho III., one ofthe finest compositions and most powerful paintings of the series : the trumpeters are justly regarded as a prodigy of expression. The figure in green hold- Sect. II. GROTTA FERRATA — MARINO. " 1 1 * ing the emperor's horse is Domeni chino himself, the person leaning on the horse is Guido, and the one behind him is Guercino ; the courtier in a green dress dismounting from his horse is Giambattista Agucci, one of Dome- nichino's early patrons; the youth with a blue cap and white plume, retreat ing before the prancing horse, is the young girl of Frascati to whom Dome nichino was attached, but was unable to obtain from her parents. 4. The miracle of the saint sustaining the fall ing column during the building of the monastery : remarkable for its per spective and for the great number of episodes introduced. 5. St. Nilus pray ing for the cessation of a storm which threatens the harvest. 6. The saint praying before the crucifix. 7. The Annunciation. These frescoes, which had suffered greatly from damp and neglect, were cleaned and very well restored in 1819 by Camuccini, at the cost of Cardinal Consalvi, who was abbot of the monastery. This en lightened statesman at the same time placed in the ch. the marble bust of Domenichino executed by Signora Teresa Benincampi, a favourite pupil of Canova's. The altarpiece, an oil painting representing the two saints praying to the Virgin, is by Annibale Caracci. The service of this ch. is performed in the Greek language and according to the Greek ritual. The principal MSS. of the conventual library were removed a few years since to the library of the Vatican. The Palace of the Abbot, remarkable for its fine architecture, contains some interesting fragments of ancient sculp ture found in the neighbourhood of the monastery and among the ruins of a Roman villa. In one of the rooms is a monument to the memory of Cardinal Consalvi, who died here. The circumstances attending his death are still involved in painful mystery, and the few facts which have come to light rather tend to confirm the popular belief that he fell a victim to poison. Travellers should endeavour to attend the Fair held here on the 25th of March, to see the varied costumes of the peasantry of the environs. Marino, about 4 miles from Grotta Ferrata, (there is a direct road to Marino, with out passing through G. Ferrata, joining that here described at the Ponte degli Squarciarelli), prettily situated near the extremity of one of the offshoots descending from Monte Cavo. The road descends from Grotta Ferrata to the Ponte degli Squarciarelli, by which it crosses the stream which drains the Latin Valley. The hill on the 1. is formed by a current of lava, resting upon a bed of red tufa. After crossing the bridge a road (3J m.) on the 1. leads to Rocca di Papa, whilst that to Marino, narrow, hilly, and much out of repair, continues to ascend for about 3 m. among vineyards, a new, wide, and good road is now nearly completed. .Close to and before entering the town is the Villa di Bel poggio on thert., from which there is a splendid view over the Campagna. [Marino may be also reached by a more direct route than by Grotta Ferrata from Frascati ; and the Railway to Albano has a station about 3 m. below the town.] Marino has been supposed to occupy the site of ancient Castrimcenium,* and contains a population of 6530 souls. It is interest ing in the history of the middle ages as a stronghold of the Orsini family, who first appear in the 1 3th century in con nexion with their castle of Marino. In 1347 it was attacked by Rienzi and gallantly defended by Giordano Orsini, whom the tribune had just expelled from Rome. In the following century Marino became the property of the Colonnas, who still retain it as one of their principal fiefs in the Roman States. It was the residence of Martin V. in 1424. During the contests of the Colonnas with Eugenius IV. it was besieged and captured by Giuliano Ricci, archbishop of Pisa, the com mander of the papal troops. The * Recent researches of Sig. Rosa, however, lead to suppose that the Roman town was more to the north, where portions of the city wall have been laid bare, and a mutilated inscription discovered, having on it the word Castrirae- nienses. 398 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome, Colonnas, however, recovered the town, and again fortified it against Sixtus IV. in 1480, by erecting the walls and towers which still surround it, and add so much to its picturesque beauty. From the situation of Marino, on a height above the plain (1330 ft. above the sea), the climate is healthy ; during the summer it is frequented by families from Rome, attracted by the cool pure air and by the shady walks in the neighbourhood. Before the restoration of the Via Appia by Pius VI., the high post-road from Rome to Terracina passed through it. The long street called the Corso, the piazza of the Duomo, and the fountain, would do credit to many towns of more importance. The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Barnabas, contains a picture of St. Bartholomew by Guercino, seriously injured by restorations. The ch. of La Trinita, on the 1. of the Corso, has a picture of the Trinity, by Guido. In the Madonna delle Grazie is a St. Roch, attributed to Domenichino. The direct road from Rome to Ma rino (14 m.) is the same as that to Al bano, by the Via Appia Nova, as far as the 9th m., from which it ascends, gradually at first, bordered by cliffs of volcanic tufa or peperino, which has been extensively quarried, this district offering the best qualities, and that most extensively used in ancient times for building purposes at Rome ; the rise to the town is precipitate, very fatiguing for horses, and the road in indifferent condition. At the foot of the hill of Ma rino, lying between it and the ridge which encloses the Lake of Albano, is a wooded glen, called the Paroo di Colonna ; the entrance to it is on 1. of the viaduct, over which the new road to Castel Gandolfo is carried. This valley will interest the classical tourist as the site of the Aqua Feren- tina, memorable as the locality on which the Latin tribes held their ge neral assemblies, from the destruc tion of Alba to the consulship of P. Decius Mus, B.C. 340. Many coun cils of the confederation which took place in this valley are mentioned by Dionysius and Livy : among these were the assemblies at which Tarquinius Su- perbus compassed the death of Turnus Herdonius ; that at which the deputies decided on war with Rome to restore the Tarquins to the throne ; that held during the siege of Fidenae ; and that which preceded the battle of Lake Regillus. One of the interesting facts connected with these meetings is that recorded by Livy, in describing the death of Turnus Herdonius, the chief tain of Aricia. He tells us that Tar quinius Superbus had convened an assembly of the chiefs at daybreak, but did not arrive himself till even ing, when Turnus, who had openly expressed his anger at the slight, in dignantly quitted the meeting. Tar quin, to revenge himself for this pro ceeding, hired a slave to conceal arms in the tent of Turnus, and then accused him of a conspiracy to assassinate his colleagues. The arms were of course discovered, and Turnus was thrown into the fountain, " caput aquae Ferentinae," where he was kept down by a grating and large stones ' heaped upon it, until he was drowned. The traveller may trace the stream to the " caput aquae," which he will find rising in a clear volume at the base of a mass of tufa. From Ma rino a well-managed road and via duct obviate the former dangerous descent to the bottom of the val ley, here extremely picturesque and deeply excavated between precipices of massive peperino, on the edge of one of which Marino stands, which from this point appears to great advantage. Crossing the Aqua Ferentina, an ascent of J m. through a lovely wood of oaks and ilexes brings us to a little roadside oratory, where the whole of the lake of Albano suddenly bursts upon us. Here is the lowest point of the lip-crater in which the lake lies, and over which at a very remote period the waters flowed into the Vallis Ferentina, before the cutting of the emissarium by which, as we shall see, it is now emptied. From here a path on the 1. strikes off to Palazzola and Monte Cavo along the ridge of Costa Casella, on which Alba Longa is supposed by some topo graphers to have stood. A little farther Sect. II. ALBA LONGA. 399 we cross smother depression, in which Sir W. Gell thought he could discover traces of the road that once connected Laurentum and Alba, and through which he considered the lake emptied itself into the Rivus Albanus, a theory no longer tenable. The view from here over the Campagna, extending to the sea on one side, and over the Alban Lake with the M onte Cavo behind on the other, is particularly fine. Follow ing the ridge of Monte Cucco after passing the village cemetery and the Villa del Drago, we soon reach Castel Gandolfo. The views over the Cam pagna to Rome and the sea are very fine from this part of our route (see p. 403). Alba Longa. For many years most of the Roman antiquaries had fixed the site of this celebrated city at Palazzola, on the eastern side of the lake of Albano, although the space appeared too limited to agree with the descriptions of Livy and Dionysius. The expression of the former historian, " sub Albano Monte . . . quos ab situ porrectai in dorso urbis Longa Alba appellata," could with difficulty have applied to the knoll of Palaz- zuola itself; Sir William Gell, believ ing that the older antiquaries had not examined the locality, undertook its survey for the purpose of deciding this doubtful point of classical topography. The pointing out of a new site for Alba Longa is due to our learned country man. He supposes that it was situated on the ridge stretching along the north ern side of the lake. The road we have travelled over from Marino leads us to a depression near the base of Monte Cucco, about 1 m. N. of Castel Gandolfo, where he supposes the Ro mans made an artificial cutting to carry the waters of the lake into the Rivus Albanus before the construction of the Emissarium. Here he also thought he had discovered some traces of an ancient road which ran from near the ruins of Bovillae on the high post-road to Albano, marked by a line of ruined tombs, and traces of cuttings in the rock high above the N. shore of the lake, to allow of the passage ofthe road. The whole space is now covered with vegetation, without a trace of wall or edifice older than the Imperial period, except some massive blocks of peperino, which our author considers to be sub structions of the ancient city. This ridge, Costa Casella, bounded on one side by the precipices towards the lake, may explain how a city so situated was designated by the term longa. There would be room only for a single street, whose length could not have been less than 1 m. According to Gell's views, Palazzola was one of the citadels which defended the town at its south-eastern extremity: Nie- buhr's idea that Rocca di Papa was the chief citadel of Alba is quite irrecon cilable with the distance and localities. The road leading from this site to the plain across the Rivus Albanus was sup posed by Sir W. Gell to be the line of communication between Alba and La- vinium. The place where the latter stood may easily be recognised by the high tower of Pratica, the modern representative of that famous city* * We have given a sketch of Sir W. Gell's views as to the position of Alba Longa, although we must confess that where our countryman would fix its site is open to insuperable objec tions, since Dionysius, on whose authority he chiefly relies, states that Alba was backed by a mountain, between which and the lake the town stood, and no such mountain exists behind Gell's Alba : but all researches on the site of a place de stroyed centuries before any description of it that has come down to us was written, are little better than idle speculations, founded as they are on the vague topographical indications of Livy and Dionysius. Our readers will recollect that Alba was destroyed at least 650 years before the time of these historians. Some light may be thrown on the subject, however, by the labours of Signor Rosa, who has made a detailed topographical survey of the districts bordering on the Lakes of Albano and Nemi, and who has come to the conclusion that the most probable site of Alba was at Palazzola. Connected with this vexed question, we insert an extract from the note book of a friend. "I have walked over the whole ridge, along the N. shores of the Alban Lake, where Gell places the site of Alba Longa; and with the exception of some walls of a villa of the period of the Antonines, I have been unable to discover a trace of any ancient constructions. I cannot under stand how Alba could have occupied a site deprived of water, and so difficult to defend ; and I am obliged to side with the older topographers inj placing it near Palazzola, probably in the 400 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. There are few spots in the neighbour hood of Rome which the poetry of Virgil has made so familiar to the scholar as Alba Longa: — " Signa tibi dicam : tu condita rnente teneto. Cum tibi sollicito secreti ad fluminis un- dam, Litoreis ingens inventa sub ilicibus sus Triginta capitum foetus enixa jacebit, Alba, solo recubans, albi circum libera nati. Is locus urbis erit; requies ea certa laho- rum." Jin., iii. 388. It would be out of place here to exa mine the arguments by which Niebuhr has established the mythic character of the early history of Rome. By separating history from poetic fable, the Prussian historian by no means questions the existence of the ancient cities which figure so conspicuously in the legends of the poets. No one who has explored the country, and has examined the gigantic ruins still standing on the spots described by the Roman writers, can regard their existence as a romance ; and the fact that the poets have associated them with the events of their legendary history must at least be received as an argument in favour of their high anti quity. There can hardly be a doubt that Alba was a powerful city anterior to the foundation of Rome : Niebuhr considers that it was the centre of a confederation, distinct from that ofthe Latins, but in alliance with it. The Roman writers state that Alba was destroyed by Tullus Hostilius (b.c. 650), after the famous contest of the Horatii and Curiatii ; but Niebuhr doubts whether its destruction took place at that period, and believes that the city was first seized by the Latin confederation. All the authorities, however, agree that after the ruin of Alba its inhabitants removed to Rome, and settled on the Caelian hill. In later times the Julian and other il lustrious families traced their descent from these Alban colonists. level space beyond — a site to which the 'sub Albano Monte condidit (Ascanlus) quaaabsitu porrectfe In dorso urbis Longa Alba appellata ' of Livy, and the short notice of Dionysius, will apply. As to fixing the Arx Albana at Rocca di Papa, I am afraid its distance must exclude it, as at no time could the town of Ascanius have extended so far." Returning to the road from Marino, the tourist can visit Castel Gandolfo and descend to the shore of the lake, for the purpose of examining the ancient Emissarium; or he may proceed along the ridge overlooking the lake to Palazzola, by a bridle-path of about 4 m., and from thence by the road through the woods of the Madonna del Tufo to Rocca di Papa and Monte Cavo. Palazzola, a Franciscan monastery, beautifully situated at the foot of Monte Cavo, overlooking the lake of Albano, and commanding a splendid panorama over the subjacent lake, with the Campagna and Rome itself, even including, in fine weather, the shores of the Mediterra nean. The garden of the monastery is remarkable for a consular tomb. It is excavated in the rock, and is supposed to be as old as the 2nd Punic war. It was first discovered in 1 463 by Pius II. (jEneas Sylvius J, who had it cleared of the ivy which had concealed it for ages. It was not completely exca vated until 1576, when considerable treasure is said to have been found in the interior. The style of the monu ment closely resembles that of the Etruscan sepulchres — a fact which bespeaks its high antiquity, inde pendently of the consular fasces and the emblems of the pontiff sculptured on the rock. Ricci considers, with some probability, that it may be the tomb of Cneius Cornelius Scipio His pallus, the only person who died in vested with the double dignity of consul and Pontifex Maximus, and who ismen- tioned by Livy as having been seized with paralysis while visitingthe temple on the. Alban mount (B.C. 176) : he died at Cuma;, but his funeral obsequies were celebrated at Rome, where his remains were brought for that purpose : and it is very possible th ey were deposited where he was first attacked with his fatal malady. This tomb must have stood on the side of the road that led from the Via Appia to the Via Numinis and Temple of Jupiter, on the Mons Sect. II. ROCCA DI PAPA. — MONTE CAVO. 401 Latialis anove. Near the monastery are the remains of extensive artificial caverns, supposed to have belonged to a Nymphaeum of the Imperial period. Rocca di Papa. From its elevation above the sea, Rocca di Papa enjoys a cool climate, and is free from alL traces of malaria ; it has the additional advantage of varied and pleasant rides and walks through the adjoining woods and over the highest parts of the Alban hills. There is a very fair carriage-road to it from Frascati. From whatever side we approach this picturesque mountain-village, whether from the valley of Grotta Ferrata and Marino, or through the magnificent woods behind Palazzola, it is scarcely possible to convey any idea of the scenery which presents itself at each turn of the road. Rocca di Papa occupies the site of the Latin city of Fabia, mentioned by Pliny as existing in his time, and is supposed by some topographers to mark the position ofthe Arx Albanaof Livy, to which the Gauls were repulsed in their attack on Rome. •Many antiquaries consider the modern name a corruption ofthe ancient Fabia, whilst others derive it from the circum stance that it was one of the strong holds of the popes as early as the 12th century. It is a straggling village of 2600 souls, at an elevation of 2648 ft. above the sea, built on a steep de clivity of lava thrown up on the edge of the great crater of the Alban mount. It is first mentioned under its mo dern name in the chronicle of Fos- sahuova, where it is stated that pope Lucius III. (1181) sent Count Bertoldo, the Imperial lieutenant', to defend Tusculum against the Romans, and to recapture Rocca di Papa. In the 13th century it became, like Ma rino, a fief of the Orsini family, who held it until the pontificate of Martin V. in 1424, when it passed to the Colonnas, who still possess it. During the 2 following centuries it was a stronghold of that celebrated family, and was frequently besieged and captured in the contests between the Roman barons. In 1482 it was taken by the duke of Calabria ; in 1484 by the Orsinis; and in 1557, during the contests between the Ca- raffeschi and the duke of Alba, it was besieged by the people of Velletri, and compelled by famine to surrender. On the extreme point of the rock some ruins of the ancient citadel may still be seen. From this village we ascend for about 2 miles to Monte Cavo, through chesnut forests of great luxuriance. Monte Cavo. Immediately behind the village of Rocca di Papa commences the circular crater-like depression, the plain form ing the bottom of which is called the Campo di Annibale, from a tradition that it was occupied by Hannibal in his march against Tusculum and Rome. It is more probable that it was the position of the Roman garrison which, Livy tells us, was placed here to com mand the Appian and the Latin Ways during the invasion of the Carthagin ians. The outline of the crater may be distinctly traced during the ascent : the side nearest Rome has disappeared, but Rocca di Papa, situated upon one of the several lava eruptions of the volcano, occupies the N.W. portion of its margin. In different parts of the plain are deep roofed pits, in which the snow collected on the neighbour ing heights for the supply of Rome is preserved. Monte Cavo, the highest point of the Alban group of hills which bound the Campagna on the E. and S., is 3130 English ft. above the level of the sea. [The easiest way to reach Monte Cavo will be by Palazzola, and from thence to Rocca di Papa, passing the chapel of La Madonna del Tufo (3 m.) ; from here a road in the midst of the chesnut forest will bring the tourist in half an hour to Rocca di Papa ; or he will find a path a short way be yond the chapel, which, by taking him to the upper part of the village, will much abridge his walk, and bring him at once into the road leading from 402 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome, it to the Monte Cavo. There are some shorter paths through the woods, suited only for pedestrians, but which no one unaccompanied by a guide ought to attempt. Monte Cavo is about 7 m. from Albano, and 6 from Nemi ; on horseback it can be reached in less than 2 hrs. from the former. The best season for visiting it will be in April or May, and in the morning or evening, the subjacent country being often enveloped in fog at other times. In a spring day the excursionist will be able to ascend the mountain, examine the Campo di Annibale, descend to Nemi, and, fol lowing the west side of its beautiful lake, return to Albano before dark. By means of the railway to Albano, this excursion may be performed in the same day from Rome.] On the summit stood the Temple of Jupiter Latialis, erected by Tarquinius Super- bus, as the common place of meeting of the Romans, Latins, Volsci, and Hernici, and memorable in Roman history as the scene of the Feriae Latinae, the solemn assemblies of the 47 cities which formed the Latin confederation. In the last mile of the ascent from the Campo di Annibale we join the ancient Via Triumphalis, the road by which the generals to whom were granted the honours of the lesser triumph, or ovation, ascended on foot to the temple. Amongst those who enjoyed this honour were Julius Caesar, as dictator ; M. Claudius Marcellus, after his victory at Syracuse ; and Q. Minu- tius Rufus, the conqueror of Liguria. The pavement of this ancient road is perfect during the upper part of the ascent, and, by pushing through the . underwood, may be followed for a con siderable distance ; the kerb-stones are entire in many parts of it, and about 9 feet apart. Some of the large po lygonal blocks of which it is com posed bear the letters N. V., sup posed to signify " Numinis Via." On the summit is a broad platform, on which stood the celebrated temple, commanding the extended plains of ancient Latium. In the beginning of the last century the ruins then exist ing were sufficient to show that the temple faced the S. ; that it was 240 ft. long and 120 ft. broad; and that it had been decorated with columns of white marble and giallo antico. Many statues and bas-reliefs were also found upon the spot, which proved the mag nificence of the edifice under the em perors. In 1783 all these remains were destroyed by Cardinal York for the purpose of rebuilding the ch. of the Passionist convent. The Roman antiquaries justly denounced this pro ceeding of the last of the Stuarts as an act of Vandalism, and it is greatly to be regretted that so ardent an admirer of ancient art as Pius VI. did not interpose his authority to prevent it. The temple was one of the national monuments of Italy ; and no profaning hand should have been allowed to remove a stone of an edifice so sacred in the early annals of Rome. The only frag ment now visible is a portion of the massive wall, on the southern and eastern side of the garden of the convent, composed of large rect angular blocks, and evidently a part of the ancient substructions of the temple. The ch., dedicated to the Holy Trinity by Cardinal York, con tains nothing worthy of notice. At the foot of the mountain are the lakes of Nemi and Albano, with the towns of Genzano, Lariccia, Albano, and Castel Gandolfo. Beyond this rich foreground are the wide-spread plains of Latium, on which, as upon a map, we may follow the principal events of the last 6 books of the ^Eneid, and the scenes of the first achieve ments of Rome. Immediately at the foot of the Alban hills we see the vine-clad hill of Monte Giove, the supposed site of Corioli, and Civita Lavinia, the modern representative of Lanuvium. On the S.E. the Pon tine marshes are concealed by the ridge of Monte Artemisio, but we may trace the line of coast from the pro montory of Porto d'Anzio, the ancient Antium, to near Civita Vecchia; and as the eye moves along the dark band of forests which spread along the shore for nearly 60 miles, we may recognise the position of ancient Ardea; of Lavinium, Sect. II. LAKE ALBANO. — CASTEL GANDOLFO. 403 the modern 9orre di Pratica; of Lau- reutum, at Tor Paterno; of Ostia, near the double mouth of the Tiber ; the Etruscan Caere, at Cervetri ; the crater of the lake of Bracciano ; and the hills of La Tolfa. On the N. and E. we recognise the Monte Cimino, the in sulated mass of Soracte, Monte Genaro, with the group of the Montes Cornicu lani at its base, and far beyond the lofty outline of the Apennines which en circle the valley ofthe Velino. Within the amphitheatre formed by the Sabine hills we see Tusculum, the site of Gabii, and the heights of Tivoli ; the view of Palestrina is intercepted by- Monte Pila, which rises above the south-eastern extremity of the Campo di Annibale. Behind Monte Pila, to the rt., is the " gelidus Algidus " of Horace, on which Lord Beverley dis covered, some years since, the ruins of a circular temple. This may pos sibly be that of Diana which Horace celebrates : — " Quaique Aventinum tenet Algidumque, Quindecim Diana preces virorum Curet ; et votis puerorum arnicas Applicet aures." Beyond this, at the opening ofthe plain of the Sacco, is the town of Valmon- tone. The last and greatest feature of the landscape is Rome itself, which is seen from this point in all its glory :— " Quaque iter est Latiis ad summam fascibus Albam, Excels^ de rupe procul jam conspicit Ur- bem." Lucan, v. The summit of this hill is well known to the classical reader as the spot from which Virgil makes Juno survey the contending armies previous to the last battle described in the jEneid : — ' ' At Juno e summo, qui nunc Albanus habe- tur, (Turn neque nomen erat, nee honos, autgloria, monti,) Prospiciens tumulo, campum adspectabat, et ambas Laurentum Troumque acies, urbemque La- tini." jBn. xii. 133. Lord Byron has beautifully described the magnificent panorama from the Alban Mount : — " And afar The Tiber winds, and the broad ocean laves The Latian coast, where sprung the epic war. ' Arms and the man,' whose reascending star Rose o'er an empire ; — but beneath my right Tully reposed from Rome ; and where yon bar Of girdling mountains intercepts the sight, The Sabine farm was till'd, the weary bard's delight." Childe Harold, iv. Hi. Lake of Albano. The ascent from Marino to Castel Gandolfo, through the woods which clothe this side of the lake, commands one of the most beautiful scenes in Italy : it crosses the depression of the edge of the crater, over which ran the primitive watercourse by which the lake emptied itself before the ex cavation of the present emissarium, from whence it ascends gradually along the Monte Cucco to Castel Gandolfo. Another road leads from Rocca di Papa to Castel Gandolfo, through Pa- lazzuola, and along the southern margin of the lake, traversing the lower avenue (galleria) below the con vent of the Cappuccini of Albano, through a thick wood, and from thence through the magnificent upper galleria of ilexes, passing by the Franciscan convent and the Villa Barberini, be fore reaching the E. gate of Castel Gandolfo. From whatever side the lake is approached, the traveller can not fail to be struck by its exceeding loveliness. Castel Gandolfo, a town of 1446 Inhab., derives its chief importance from the summer palace of the popes, which forms so conspicuous an object from all parts of the country around. In the 12th century it was the property of the Gandolfi family, whose Turris or Cas- trum de Gandulphis is mentioned in many documents of the period. Un der Honorius III., in 1218, it passed into the hands of the Savellis, who held it as their stronghold for nearly 400 years, defying alternately the popes, the barons, and the neigh bouring towns, although they were 404 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome, occasionally driven from their posi tion by superior force. In 1436 it was sacked and burnt by the troops of Eugenius IV., because Cola Savelli had afforded an asylum in it to Antonio da Pontedera, who had rebelled against the pope. On this occasion the castle was confiscated ; but the Savellis again obtained possession of it in 1447, in the time of Nicholas V. This illus trious family continued to hold it, with occasional interruptions, until 1595, about which time Sixtus V. had erected it into a duchy in favour of Bernardino Savelli ; but the fortunes of his noble house were too much reduced to support the dignity, and he sold the property to the government for 150,000 scudi, an immense sum for the time. In 1604 Clement VIII. in corporated it with the temporal pos sessions of the Holy See. Urban VIIL, about 1630, determined to convert it into a summer residence for the sovereign pontiffs, and began the palace, from the designs of Carlo Maderno, Bartolommeo Breccioli, and Domenico Castelli. In 1660 the plans were enlarged and improved by Alex ander VIL, and the whole building was restored and reduced to its pre sent form by Clement XIII. in the last century. Since that time several Roman families, and particularly the Barberinis, the Del Dragos, and Tor lonia, — the latter recently purchased by the King of Italy, — have erected villas in the vicinity. The situation of Castel Gandolfo is extremely picturesque : it occupies an eminence above the north western margin ofthe lake ; and from its lofty position, 1450 feet above the Mediterranean and 460 above the lake, its climate is pure and its air bracing, whilst it is free from malaria, the pest of the subjacent Campagna on one side, and of the shores of the lake on the other. The Papal palace, the most frequented country residence of the sovereign, is a plain, unorna- mented building, with some large and convenient apartments : the view from it, over the lake, is extremely fine. The ch. adjoining, dedicated to St. Thomas of Villanuova, was built in 1661, by Alexander VIL, from the designs of Bernini, in the form of a Greek cross. In the interior is an altar-piece by Pietro da Cortona, and an Assumption by Carlo Maratta. A path leads down from the town to the shores of the lake, which swarm with frogs in the summer. The lake of Albano, one of the most beauti ful pieces of water in the world, and, in respect to scenery, beyond compari son the finest of those of purely vol canic origin in Italy, is 3825 yds. (2£ m.) in length, 2300 yds. (1J m.) in width, about 6 m. in circuit, and is probably one of those craters of eleva tion well known to geologists, its sides being formed of beds of volcanic tufa dipping away from the centre. The Emissartum. The most remarkable circumstance connected with the Alban lake was the formation of the emissary, by which the Romans, while engaged in their contest with the Veientes(B.c.394), suc ceeded in lowering the waters, which by their accumulation threatened to inundate the subjacent country. This emissary is a subterranean canal or tunnel, 1509 yds. in length, excavated in the tufa ; it varies in height from 5 J to 9 or 10 feet, and is never less than 3j in width. The upper end is of course on a level with the surface of the lake, or 964J Eng. feet above the sea, the lower 954, giving a fall of 1 0 ft. or of 1 in 452. It runs under the hill and a little east of the town of Castel Gandolfo, and opens at la Mola, 1 m. from Albano, from which its waters run to the Tiber by the stream which passes by Vallerano. The sum mit of Monte Cavo, on the opposite side of the lake, rises 2166 feet from its waters. Certain vertical openings or shafts, by the Romans called Spira- mina and Spiracula, intended to give air to the tunnel below during its ex cavation, are said to be visible in vari ous parts of the hill under which it runs. In summer the water is seldom more that 2 feet deep in the emis- sarium, and does not run with rapidity, as may be observed by means of a Sect. II. THE EMISSARIUM. 40" candle place#upon a float and allowed to follow the current. Over the open ing towards the lake is a low flat arch of 7 stones ; the blocks with which it is constructed are large, and of the pe perino of the country ; they form what may be called a, flat arch : the blocks, being wedge-shaped,support each other — a style we see employed by the Etruscans, and even during the Repub lican period at Rome, in the Tabula rium of the Capitol. It is now indeed sustained by a modern round arch, and by a wall of masonry. Within the enclosure formed by this arch and wall are some ancient stone seats, with a moulding, the place having probably been converted at a subsequent period into a Nymphseum, which existed when Domitian took so much delight in this locality. A quadrilateral court, well walled in with large stones in parallel courses, succeeds to the flat arch ; oppo site to which the water enters a nar rower passage, and then passes into the interior ofthe mountain. The fine old trees which overshadow the Alban lake render it a cool and delightful retreat in the hot months ; and the number of blocks, the remains of terraces and buildings, at the water's edge all round its shores, prove how much the Ro mans, during the period of the first em perors, enjoyed itspicturesquebeauties. A large grotto or cave, near the water's edge, and at a little distance to the N. of the emissarium, decorated with Doric triglyphs, was probably used as the summer triclinium of the emperor Domitian, whose palace was situated on the hill above. These retreats were of course constructed long after the emissary, when the experience of ages had shown that there was no further danger to be apprehended from the rising ofthe water. To these observations we may add, that, from appearances on the sides of the lake, it is evident, as confirmed by his tory, that its waters were considerably higher than the present surface : the depression' between Castel Gandolfo and Marino, at the lowest edge of the crater, serving to carry off the waters into the little stream which now flows below the hill on which Marino stands. The terms of the oracle of Delphi, as handed down by Livy, however, cannot refer to this channel, directing, as it did, that the waters should not be allowed to escape by their own river, in mare manare (aquam) suo flumine, as it would have flowed into the Tiber, and not into the sea. The connexion of the emissary with the siege of Veii is easily explained : the oracle directed the construction of the emissary, in re ference to the hint of the Etruscan soothsayer that they would enter Veii by means of a mine, the art of form ing which was then unknown to the Romans. By the exercise of their skill in the operations of the emissary they obtained sufficient knowledge to enable them to sink a mine, which gave them possession of the citadel of Veii.* Travellers who visit the lake from Albano will always find donkeys in the town ready for hire at 3 pauls each. The cicerone will expect 5 pauls, and the custode at the emissary, who finds lights, 2. A very beautiful road of 2 m., shaded by ilexes, and skirt ing the grounds of the Villa Barberini, passing before the Convent of S. Fran cesco, leads from Castel Gandolfo to Albano. It is called the Galleria di Sopra, and is well known as a de lightful drive, and for its fine views over the lake and of Monte Cavo. * The lowest part of the rim of the crater which encloses the Lake of Albano, and over which only its waters could have flowed before the excavation of the emissarium, is situated between the top of the ascent by the road from Marino (p 397) and the base of Monte Cucco. Sir W. Gell supposed that he had discovered traces of an artificial cutting at the base of the latter hill, and hence made the ancient waters to flow into the dry bed of a river in the ravine below, and which he considered to be the Rivus Albanus. More recent researches on the topo graphy of the locality have shown that the lowest part of the rim is nearer the small oratory men tioned at p. 398. rendering it probable that over this point once ran the waters of the lake, and into the stream rising in the Parco di Colonna, and flowing under Marino, and which is further confirmed by the discovery of an inscription at Marino, in which the latter stream is desig nated as the Rivus Albanus. According to the French surveyors, the lowest part of the edge of the crater is 246 feet above the level of the lake. 406 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. Via Appia Nova — Albano. The Railway will now be the most expeditious way of reaching Albano, although the station — La Cecchina — is at an inconvenient distance, about 3 m. from the town ; and the drive tedious from its continuous ascent. Trains leave Rome several times a day, performing the journey in l£ hrs. A very rickety omnibus, fare 15 soldi on ascending, 10 on returning from the town ; carriages from 3 to 4 frs. Persons may do well to order beforehand from the inn a vehicle to be in waiting their arrival at La Cecchina. The rly. from Rome to Albano is the same as that to Frascati as far as the station of Ciampino, 9 m. from the city; here the Albano branch, which continues to Naples, diverges to the rt., encircling the base of the Alban hills as far as Velletri, passing below Marino, where there is a small station about 4 m. from the town, and soon after crossing the post-road and the ancient Via Appia, at the 1 1th m. below the Osteria delle Frattoechie ; beyond this there are several deep cuttings through the lava-currents descending from the Alban craters. The stream which empties the lake is crossed at a short distance below its exit from the Emissarium. Fine views of Castel Gandolfo and Albano are had from this part of the rly., which runs round the base of Castel Savelli, until it reaches La Cecchina stat., situated near the edge of the Val Ariccia. From La Cecchina the pedestrian can take the road through Ariccia to Albano, about 4 m. ; the carriage road, 3 m., runs more to the 1. As some travellers may wish to visit Albano from Rome, or on their way to Naples, it may be as well to describe here the road leading to it from the capital, which comprises the first 14 miles on the Via Appia Nova. Leaving Rome by the Porta San Gio vanni, the road immediately crosses the Mariana stream, and soon after separates from that leading to Frascati: at the second milestone we cross the ancient Via Latina, the direction of which is marked by a line of ruined sepulchres ; two of which in brick, and now converted into temporary farm-buildings, at a short distance on the 1., are in good preservation. At this point, and beyond where the modern road intersects the Via Latina, and in the space between them and the Clau dian Aqueduct, upon the farm of the Arco Travertiuo, or del Corvo, excavations were made during 1858, which led to the discovery of some most interesting sepulchral monuments of the age of the Antonines, and of the Basilica of St. Stephen, founded in the pon tificate of St. Leo in the middle of the 5th centy. Several marble columns, with ancient Composite and Ionic capi tals, have been dugout, some ofthe latter with the cross sculptured on the volutes, and 2 curious inscriptions, one relative to the foundation of the primitive ch. by Demetria, a member of the Anician family ; the other to the erection of the Bell Tower by a certain Lupus Gri- garius, in the middle of the 9th cen tury, 30 years after the rebuilding of the Basilica by Pope Leo III. The ground-plan of the basilica, which is now laid open, shows that it was similar to the sacred edifices ofthe same period. The church, dedicated to St. Stephen, as restored by St. Leo IIL, consisted of a vestibule and portico, forming the front turned towards the E., opening into the aisles and nave, which were separated by a range of marble columns, most of which are unfortunately now removed. At the extremity of the nave is a semicircular tribune, with remains of the altar ; and on the rt. or N. side of the latter a square baptistery, with a sunk font in the centre, evidently for baptism by immersion. One of the pe culiarities of this basilica is the edicola in the centre of the nave and in front of the tribune, and which, placed over the relics of martyrs, was retained and included in the Leonine edifice : it con sists of two chambers, entered by a de scending staircase; over it may have stood the presbytery or choir. From the mass of ruins laid open during the excavations between the basilica and the road, this part of the Via Latina must have been occupied by an extensive Sect. II. VIA APPIA NOVA — ALBANO. 407 villa, of whifh probably the ruins op posite the 2nd mile on the 1. formed a part, and by a Hue of tombs like those on the Via Appia, several of which were laid open in 1860. Not far from these ruins are the Catacombs of i Santi Quattro, in the Vigna del Fiscale. Be tween the 3rd and 4th m. is the Osteria del Tavolato, on the rising ground be tween which and the arches of the aqueduct is supposed to have stood the Temple of Fortuna Muliebris, where Coriolanus was dissuaded by his wife and mother from marching on Rome. The distance from the capital and the locality both agree with the accounts of Dionysius and Valerius Maximus, who place it at the fourth milestone on the Via Latina. There are no ruins of any consequence, although the walls of the casale are composed of fragments of marble, and numerous remains of co lumns, &c, have been found in the vicinity. There is no other spot to which the site of the temple can with so much probability be assigned, and we may therefore regard it as the spot where Coriolanus found that he was not "of stronger earth than others :" — " Ladies, you deserve To have a temple built you : all the swords In Italy, and her confederate arms, Could not have made this peace." From this point and for the next 7 m. the post-road runs parallel to the ancient Via Appia, which is marked on the rt. by the well-known tomb of Caecilia Metella, followed by a long line of others, the most remark able of which are noticed in our ex cursion to that most celebrated of the great highways leading out of Rome. The magnificent line of arches on the I. marks the course ofthe united aqueducts of the Aqua Claudia, and Anio Novus. 3 m. from the gate and on the 1. is the Torre Fiscale, a lofty mediaeval tower. Opposite to the 5th milestone, on the rt., are extensive ruins called by some Roma Vecchia, which extend to the Via Appia, and which are now gene rally supposed to belong to a villa of the Quintilii; they occupy a mile in length, and stand on an escarp ment of the lava current, which ends at the tomb of Caecilia Metella. An elegant brick tomb of the age of the Antonines, near the Casale delle Ca- panelle, between the 5th and 6th mile stones, has been confounded with the Temple of Fortuna Muliebris. The great circular tomb on the Appian seen to the rt., and covered with farm-build ings and an olive-garden, is Casal Rotondo, the Sepulchre of Messalla Corvinus (see p. 370). Before the 7th m. is the Torre di Mezza Via, close to which a ruined aqueduct crosses the road in the direction of the Villa of the Quintilii, to convey water to which it appears to have been exclusively destined. A plain is tra versed by the post-road for the next 3 miles. Beyond the 9th milestone the road to Marino branches off on the 1., and soon after a small stream called the Fossa del Ponticello is crossed. Between this and the foot of the Al ban hills at the 11th mile where the rly. crosses, some emanations of sulphuretted hydrogen gas are seen and smelt in the space lying between the modern and ancient Appian Ways, the most extensive being designated by the name of la Solfarata : it is marked by white efflorescence on the surface. Before reaching the 11th milestone the post-road bends to the rt., towards the Osteria delle Frattoechie, where it joins the ancient Via Appia, the line of which it follows to Albano : the villa on the 1. ofthe read here, belongs to the Colonna family : from le Frat toechie the high road to Nettuno and Porto d'Anzio strikes off to the rt. Be tween le Frattoechie and the next m. (12), several ruined sepulchres bound the ascent on either side, and on the rt. are the ruins of Bovilla, with the re mains of a circus and a theatre. Higher up is the site of the more ancient Bo- villae, founded by Latinus Sylvius, well known for its conquest by Coriolanus, and as the Sacrarium of the Julian family. Frattoechie is supposed to be on or near the site of the fatal quarrel between Milo and Clodius, and which forms the subject of Cicero's cele brated oration . ' Pro Milone.' The ascent from le Frattoechie to Albano is gradual, although considerable, the difference of level from the bottom of 408 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. the hill to the gate of the town being nearly 650 feet. A little beyond the ,12th mile stone the road crosses the dry bed of the river by which Sir William Gell supposes the Alban lake to have dis charged its waters anterior to the exca vation of the emissary. A modern road leads on the 1. from near this to the Villa Torlonia at Castel Gan dolfo : a short distance beyond this traces of an ancient one have been discovered, which is supposed to have led from Laurentum to Alba Longa. Numerous tombs, many of which are shown by inscriptions to have be longed to eminent families of an cient Rome, border the road on each side during the ascent to Albano. Between the 12th and 13th milestone the road is lined on the rt. by mas sive substructions of tufa blocks for some distance. About 1 mile before reaching the town a massive square tomb, about 30 feet high, with 3 niches within and places for urns or sarcophagi, was long supposed to be the tomb of Clodius, in spite of the express statement of Cicero that his body was burnt in the Roman Forum and cast out half consumed to be preyed upou by dogs, " spoliation imaginibus, exequiis, pompa, laudatione, infelicissimis lignis, semiustulatum, noc- turnis canibus dilaniandum." The view looking back during the ascent presents one of the most impressive scenes in Italy. It commands the whole Cam pagna as far as Soracte : in the middle of the plain Rome is seen with its domes and towers in solitary gran deur, like an oasis in the desert, amidst the ruins of the desolate plain. Beyond, on the 1., the long line of the Mediterranean completes this striking picture. Close to the gate of Albano, and on the I. of the road, are the re mains of a high tower-shaped sepulchre, with binding-blocks in white marble, and with which the entire structure of 4 stories appears to have been origin ally covered. It contains a sepulchral chamber 12 ft. by 8, and is generally admitted to be the tomb of Pompey the Great, whose ashes were brought from Egypt and deposited here by his wife Cornelia. The statement of Plutarch, who tells us that the tomb of Pompey was close to his villa at Albanum, corresponds with this locality. On the rt. of the gate is the Villa Al tieri, and on the 1. the road leading to Castel Gandolfo. After entering the town, we pass on the rt. the Villa Doria, in the finest situation of the modern city. Albano, 14 m. from Rome. (Inns: Hotel de Paris, formerly de la Poste, very good, but expensive, "I paid 81 frs. a day for self and wife, 2 babies, and 3 servants, 0. R., June, 1870;" Hotel de Rome, very good, in the Borgo della Stella, near the viaduct, more reasonable in charges than the Hotel de Paris ; Hotel de Russie at the opposite extremity of the town, near the Villa Doria; fine views over the sea from the upper windows ; all the hotels are much improved, Albano being much resorted to by strangers in the spring and early summer.) Carriages and donkeys can be procured at these inns, but tourists will do well before hand to come to an understanding about the charges ; if not, they must make up their minds to be imposed upon. [For persons whose time is limited the following itinerary, which will in clude most of what is to be seen in the town and the neighbourhood, may be useful, and which in a carriage may be gone through in 5 hours. Leaving Al bano — Tomb of Aruns, Viaduct of Laric cia, town of Ariccia, and, leaving there the carriage, examine the ancient walls and the substructions on the line ofthe Via Appia below the town ; a drive of half an hour to the Villa Cesarini at Genzano, to see which and the gardens overlooking the Lake of Nemi a per mission had better be obtained before leaving Rome. Drive to the Capuchin Convent at Genzano, from which a walk of an hour to Nemi ; visit the Monte Parco on returning, for the fine view ; drive from Ariccia through the woods to the Capuchin Convent of Albano, and from there by the Upper Gallery to Castel Gandolfo, returning to Albar.0 by the Lower Gallery, visiting on the way the ruins in the Villa Barberini. Sect. II. VIA APPIA NOVA. ALBANO. 409 The principal sights at Albano will be the Villa Doria; the Cathedral; the Church of San Paolo ; the Roman Amphitheatre ; and the Church of Santa Maria della Rotonda. An excursion to Palazzola, Rocca di Papa, and Monte Cavo will require 5 hours ; the return journey to Rome in a carriage, along the line ofthe Via Appia, 3£ hours, on foot 5 or 6.] An episcopal town of 6260 souls, 1250 English ft. above the sea, cele brated for the beauty of its scenery and the purity of its air. Albano and Lariccia have been called the Hamp- stead and Highgate of Rome, and during the summer months they are much frequented by visitors. Albano, particularly, is a favourite resort of the Roman nobility during the vil- leggiatura season from June to October. Although the situation is generally healthy, its close vicinity to the Cam pagna below, and to the region of malaria, cannot be regarded without suspicion; during the extreme heats of summer intermittent fevers sometimes show themselves, even at this consider able elevation. The present town occu pies part of the grounds of the villas of Pompey and Domitian : traces of the former exist in the masses of reticulated masonry in the grounds of the Villa Doria, and in still more extensive ruins within the precincts of the Villa Barberini on the roadto Castel Gandolfo ; but as Domitian included both the villas of Pompey and of Clo dius in his immense range of buildings, it would be extremely difficult to de termine the position of the more ancient structures. The neighbourhood of the town was covered with villas of the Ro man patricians, many of which are still traceable. The most remarkable re mains at Albano are those of the Amphi theatre erected by Domitian (between the ch. of S. Paolo and the Cappuccini), mentioned by Suetonius and by Juve nal as the scene of the most revolting cruelties of the last and worst of the 12 Caesars; it was nearly perfect in the time of Pius II, with its seats partly excavated in the rock. Near the ch. of S. Paolo are the ruins of the Praetorian camp : a great portion of the walls and \Romei\ one of the gates still exist. The walls are built of quadrilateral blocks of peperino, many of which are 12 ft. long. In the lower part of the town is a cir cular building, now the ch. of S. Maria della Rotonda, iu the jambs of the door of which are some beautiful acanthus- leaves in marble, portions of an elegant frieze of some ancient edifice, probably from the villa of Domitian : the build ing itself is supposed to have been origin ally a temple dedicated to Minerva. In the Strada di Gesu e Maria are remains of baths. The ch. and con vent of the Cappuccini, between thy town and the lake, celebrated for its lovely position and its magnificent views from the upper part of the gar den, into which ladies are not admitted, and especially from the raised terrace, over the highest station of the Via Crucis, occupies a part of the villa of Domitian. More extensive remains are found among the pine-groves of the Villa Barberini. The principal modern villas at Albano are those of Prince Doria, near the Roman gate, and of Prince Piombino, at the opposite ex tremity of the town, both commanding fine views over ancient Latium and the Mediterranean ; of the Massimo, Ros pigliosi, Feoli, and Sacchetti families. The wine of Albano, from the vine yards on the slopes below the town, still keeps up the reputation it enjoyed in the days of Horace : — ¦ " Ut Attica virgo Cum sacris Cereris, procedit fuscus Hydaspes, Cascuba vina ferens : Alcon Chium maris ex- pers. Hie herus: Albanum, Maecenas, sive Faler- num Te magis appositis delectat ; hahemus utmm- que." Sat. II. viii. 13. Albano has been the seat of a bishop since a.d. 460. Adrian IV. (Nicholas Breakspeare), the only Englishman who ever sat on the papal throne, was bishop of Albano for some years prior to his being raised to the Pontificate ; it forms one of the six suburban sees always filled by a car dinal bishop. The Via Appia Nova passes in a straight line through Albano, until reaching the gigantic viaduct that T 410 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. connects it with Ariccia ; and a short distance beyond the last houses of the town, before arriving at the viaduct, the sepulchral monument so often described as that of the Horatii and Curiatii is seen on the rt. The older Italian antiquaries who sug gested this idea had taken no pains to examine how far such a suppo sition was borne out by history ; but in recent years a diligent search into authorities, and above all a more accurate acquaintance with Etruscan remains, has not only entirely dis proved the assertion, buthas established beyond a doubt the Etruscan origin of the tomb, and the probable occasion of its erection. The base is 49 ft. long on each side, and 24 high: upon this rise at the angles 4 cones, in the centre of which is a round pedestal 26 feet in diameter, containing a small chamber, in which an urn with ashes was discovered in the last century. The traveller who will take the pains to compare this with the descrip tion of the tomb of Porsenna at Chiusi, as given in the 36th book of Pliny, on the authority of Varro, will hardly require a stronger argument in favour of the conclusions of Piranesi, D'Hancarville, and Nibby, that it is the tomb of Aruns, the son of Porsenna, who was killed by Aristodemus in his attack upon Aricia. The tomb of the Horatii and Curiatii stood near the spot where these heroes fell, which was distant only 5 miles from Rome, and on the ViaAppia(p. 370). Until 1853 a steep descent, and a proportionately dangerous ascent, led from Albano to Lariccia, to obviate which a gigantic viaduct was undertaken by Pius IX., to connect these towns, and by which travellers now pass on a level from one to the other. This celebrated work, perhaps one of the most remarkable of its kind in modern times, spans the deep ravine which separates Albano from Lariccia : it -n as commenced in 1846, and completed in 1853, the archi tect being the late Cavaliere Ber- tolini, under the direction of the en lightened Minister Jacobini, who pre sided over the department of public works. This magnificent viaduct con sists of 3 superposed ranges of arches, 6 on the lower tier, 12 on the central, and 18 on the upper one, the height of each being 60, and the width 49 feet between the piers. The length of the way is 1020 feet, including the ap proaches, and of the upper line of the arches alone, or of the viaduct properly speaking, 890 feet, and the greatest height above the bottom of the valley 192J feet. The whole is constructed of square blocks of peperino quarried near the spot, the quantity employed being 8,000,000 cubic feet, and, what is not the least surprising circumstance connected with this extraordinary work, at a cost of only 140,000 scudi (30,000?. sterling). The viaduct opens immediately on the Piazza of Ariccia, before the ch. and the Chigi palace. The view from the pathway and to wards the sea is very fine. Ariccia, about 1 m. from Albano, separated from it by a deep hollow : there is a small clean-looking Inn on the Piazza (the Hotel Martorelli). The old post- road left the Appian near the tomb of Aruns, and proceeded by a steep but picturesque ascent to Lariccia, through which the interest of the Chigi family succeeded in carrying the modern one, although the old line of the Via Appia afforded a straight and more direct course. The deep ravine which separates Ariccia from Albano abounds in beautiful scenery. The modern town, with a population of 1675 Inhab., is on the summit of the hill, and occupies the site of the citadel of Aricia, one of the con federate cities of Latium, whose his tory and connexion with the nymph Egeria are so often alluded to by the Latin poets. It was supposed to have been founded by Hippolytus, who was worshipped under the name of Virbius, in conjunction with Diana, in the neigh bouring grove. We gather from Virgil Sect. II. MONTE GIOVE. — CIVITA LAVINIA. 411 that it waa»one of the most powerful towns of Latium at the arrival of jEneas : — At Trivia Hippolytum secretis alma recondit Sedibus, et Nymphaa Egeriaa nemorique rele- gat ; Solus ubi in sylvis Italis ignobilis aavum Exigeret, versoque ubi nomine Virbius esset." /En. vii. 114. It was the first day's resting-place out of Rome in Horace's journey to Brun- dusium : — ' Egressum magna- me accepit Aricia Rom& Hospitio modico." 1. Sat. v. 1. Its importance in the time of Cicero is shown by his eloquent description in the third Philippic, when he replies to the attack of Antony on the mother of Augustus, who was a native of the town. During the retreat of Porsenna's army from Rome it was attacked by a detachment under his son Aruns, who was defeated and slain by Aristodemus of Cumre : the Etruscan prince was buried near the battle-field in the tomb above described. The ancient city lay on the southern slope of the hill, extending to the plain traversed by the Via Appia, where numerous ruins still exist. Among these are the city walls, and a highly curious fragment with a perpendicular aperture, through which a sufficient quantity of water is discharged to give rise to the question whether it is the emissary of the lake of Nemi or the fountain of Diana. The most important ruin is that dis covered by Nibby, who considered it to be the Temple of Diana, whose site had been previously sought for on the side of the lake of Nemi. There are several circumstances in favour of this opinion : the account of Strabo, who says that the temple overlooked a sea, does not cor respond so well with the lake of Nemi as with the extensive hollow below these ruins called the Valle- riccia, a crater 4 m. in circumference, which was probably filled with water in his time, like the other volcanic lakes of Albano, Nemi, &c. A still more conclusive argument is the bas- relief found herein 1791 by Cardinal Despuig, who unfortunately sent it to Palma in the island of Majorca, repre senting the priest of the temple in the act of slaying his predecessor, con firming the account of Strabo, who tells us that the barbarous ordinances of the temple required that the high priest, called the Rex Nemorensis, should have killed his predecessor in single combat. The founder of this temple, according to Pausanias, was Hippolytus ; but other writers ascribe it to Orestes, after he had taken refuge at Aricia with Iphigenia. The modern town of Lariccia ha§ a large palace belonging to the Chigi family built by Bernini, and the ch. of the Assumption, raised by Alex ander VII. in 1664, from the de signs of the same architect. Its imposing cupola is decorated with stuccoes by Antonio Raggi. The fresco of the Assumption, and the picture of S. Francesco de Sales, are by Borgo- gnone ; the St. Thomas of Villanova by Vanni ; and the S. Joseph and S. Antony by the brothers Gimignani. About 10 minutes' walk from the vil lage, descending into the valley, is the magnificent causeway, 700 feet in length, and about 40 in width, by which the Via Appia was carried across the northern extremity of the Vallericcia : it is built of quadrilateral blocks of peperino, and is pierced by 3 arched apertures for the passage of water, and in the deepest part of the valley its height is not less than 40 feet; a short distance from its S.E. extremity is the opening of what ap pears to be the emissarium of the Lake of Nemi, from which flows an abundant and pellucid stream, which carries with it fertility into the subjacent plain of Vallericcia. The pedestrian may from this point follow the line of the ancient Via Appia to-below Genzano. Monte Giove (Corioli), and Civita Lavinia (Lanuvibm). From Lariccia and from the road to Genzano, looking over the wide crater t 2 412 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. of the Vallericcia, is seen the hill of Monte Giove, a low eminence of the range which descends from Monte Cavo towards the plain. It is covered with vineyards, and is situated on the left of the road leading to Porto d'Anzio. Monte Giove is interesting as the spot where many antiquaries agree in fixing the site of Corioli, so famous in the history of Coriolanus : — " Cut me to pieces, Volsces, men and lads, Stain all your edges on me. Boy ! false hound I If you have writ your annals true, 'tis there That, like an eagle in a dovecote, I. Flutter'd your Volsces in Corioli : Alone I did it." There are no ruins of the ancient city to be discovered ; indeed, Pliny states that it was deserted in his day, and that its site was without a trace of its existence (periere sine vestigio) . On a projecting hill to the E. is the pic turesque town of Civita Zavinia, or La- vigna, with 950 Inhab., occupying the site of Lanuvium, supposed to have been one of the confederate cities of Latium founded by Diomede. It is celebrated by Livy for its worship of Juno Sospita, or Lanuviana. It is also memorable as the birthplace of Milo and of Muraena, well known by the able advocacy of Cicero, of Rosciusthe comedian, and of the 2 Antonines and Commodus. The modern town is built in part of massive rectangular blocks. evidently the remains of ancient buildings. At the W. and S.E. ex tremities of the hill are the remains of extensive walls, composed of large square blocks, and of an ancient road. In the autumn of 1865 a good imperial statue, attributed to Claudius, with an eagle on the pedestal, a bronze arm, several mutilated architectural frag ments, and massive blocks of a wall, were discovered in making excava tions. The fine statue of Zeno, in the Museum of the Capitol, was found in the ruins of a Roman villa here. Civita Lavinia is reached by rly., a single train going and returning daily; the stat. is also that for Genzano, which is 3 m. off. Genzano, about 4 m. from Albano. Among the most remarkable objects presented by the modern post-road is the via duct of eight arches on leaving La riccia, forming, as it were, a con tinuation of that of Albano, a second of 8 arches beyond Galloro, and " third over the ravine before reaching Gen zano, by which the former tedious route from Lariccia to Genzano is avoided, which was so beset with beg gars, who seemed to be the true re presentatives of those who infested this hill in the time of Juvenal : — " Dignus Aricinos qui mendicaret ad axes, Rlandaque devexrejactaret basia rhedfe." Sat. iv. A fine triple avenue of elms called the Olmata, planted by duke Giuliano Cesarini in 1643, forms the entrance to Genzano. The point where the 3 planted avenues branch off is called the piazza : one of these leads to the Cappuccini and to Nemi, the central one to the palace of the dukes of Cesarini, and the third to the town. Travellers who wish to visit the lake will do well to quit their carriage at this piazza, and proceed to the Cap puccini, from which the descent to its shores will occupy half an hour, and a road leads direct from the lake to Genzano, where the carriage can wait their return. Genzano, a picturesque town of 4850 Inhab., celebrated for its annual fes tival on the Sunday of the Corpus Domini, called the Infiorata di Genzano, from the custom of strewing flowers along the streets, so as to represent arabesques, heraldic devices, figures, and other ornaments. The effect pro duced by this kind of mosaic of flowers is extremely pretty and tasteful; during the festa the town is filled with visitors from Rome and the surrounding vill ages. On one ofthe hills above the town is the mansion of the dukes of Cesarini, in a beautiful position, on Sect. II. LAKE OF NEMI. 413 the lip of the crater, in the bottom of which is the lake of Nemi. Higher up is the convent of the Cappuccini, from the gardens of which — but where ladies are not allowed to enter — the prospect is of even greater beauty. The palace of Duke Cesarini offers no other interest than the view over the lake and town of Nemi : unlike most of the Roman nobility, possessors of in teresting sites, the owner of this does not permit strangers to visit his gardens without a special permission. This difficulty is particularly annoying, as ladies are precluded from enjoying the view over the lake from the Capuchin Convent, and as most travellers are ignorant of the necessity of obtaining it before setting out from Rome. There is nothing in the house worth seeing. Before leaving Genzano we would advise the traveller to visit the prettily situated casino Jacobini, on the Monte Parco, outside the town (the gate leading up to it opens on the Pi azza of the Olmata), from which the view is most extensive over the sea-coast from the mouth of the Tiber to Cape Circello, embracing the Pontine Marshes, the Volscian Mountains, and the Ponza Islands on the far distant horizon. A great deal of wine is made about Genzano and Nemi, in which a considerable trade is carried on with the capital, and in no part of the Papal States does the pea santry appear more healthy, comfort able, and prosperous. Lake of Nemi. From Genzano a short walk will bring us to the lake of Nemi, the Lacus Nemorensis of the ancients. This beautiful little basin occupies the site of an ancient volcanic crater. It is of an oval form, like that of Albano, though smaller, being only 3 m. in circumference, the level of its surface 102 ft. higher, or 1066 above the sea. The road leads to Nemi from Gen zano, passing by the Cappuccini, and brings the traveller to the Fountain of Egeria, one of the streams which Strabo mentions as supplying the lake. This fountain, which so many poets have celebrated in conjunction with the lake and temple, is beau tifully described by Ovid, who repre sents the nymph as so inconsolable at the death of Numa, that Diana changed her into a fountain : — " Non tamen Egcriaa luctus aliena levare Damna valent ; montique jaceus radicibus imis Liquitur in lacrymas : donee pietate dolentis Mota soror Phcebi gelidum de corpore foutem Fecit, et 33ternas artus lentavit in undas." Metam. xv. " Lo, Nemi ! navell'd in the woody hills So far, that the uprooting wind which tears The oak from bis foundation, and wdiich spills The ocean o'er its boundary, and bears Its form against the skies, reluctant spares The oval mirror of thy glassy lake ; And calm as cherish'd hate, its surface wears A deep cold settled aspect nought can shake, All coil'd into itself and round, as sleeps the snake. " And near, Albano's scarce divided waves Shine from a sister valley." Cliilde Harold, iv. 173, Hi. Like the Alban Lake, that of Nemi appears to have stood in former times at a higher level than now attained by its waters, and to have been also drained in the same way by an Emissarium, which opens into the Valle Ariccia, on the line of the Via Appia. As no mention is made of this work by any ancient author, it is impossible to fix its date ; it is 1649 yards long, exceed ing that of the lake of Albano. The village of Nemi, with a popu lation of 870 souls, is beautifully placed on a height above the shores of the lake. (There is a small in different inn.) It belongs, together with a large extent of the neigh bouring country, to Prince Rospig liosi, having passed to that family in the last century, after having be longed successively to the houses of Colonna, Borgia, Piccolomini, Cenci, Frangipani, and Braschi. The old feudal castle with its round tower, still belonging to the latter, was built by the Colonnas. From the hills above, the eye wanders over the vast plains of the Campagna from the Circaean promontory to Porto d'Anzio, 414 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. and from thence to the mouth of the Ti ber, comprehending within this range the scene of half the iEneid. The lake of Nemi acquired considerable notoriety in the 16th century from the disco very of a quantity of timbers, which Leon B. Alberti and Marchi described as the remains of an ancient ship, which they supposed to be 500 ft. in length, and was attributed either to Tiberius or Trajan. The existence of a vessel of this size on the lake of Nemi carried with it an air of impro bability ; and it is now explained by the researches of Professor Nibby, who carefully examined the locality. He found that the beams recovered from the lake were parts of the frame work of an ancient building, of larch and pine, from which numerous metal nails and other fragments were ob tained. The pavement, consisting of large tiles, was laid upon an iron grating, marked in many places with the name Caisar. The tiles, grating, nails, and some of the beams, are now preserved in the Vatican Library and in the Kircherian Museum at the Collegio Romano. From the account of Sueto nius, who says that Caesar began a villa at agreat cost upon this lake, and in a fit of caprice ordered it to be pulled down before it was completed, Nibby infers that these fragments were the founda tions of the villa, which escaped de struction by being under water. On the sides of the lake are some vestiges of ancient buildings. We have already stated the grounds upon which the Temple of Diana is supposed to have been situated below Ariccia, where some inscriptions near the border of the lake, discovered during last autumn, appear to bear out this view. The ciceroni, however, point out its ruins near the lake ; but travellers who are practised in the examination of ancient buildings will see at once that they consist of opus reticulatum, which of course belongs to a much later period than the date of the temple. The grove of Diana extended, as it still does, over the surrounding country and hills for many miles. A short distance beyond Genzano we leave the province of the Comarca to enter into that of Velletri. At the castle and bridge of San Gennaro (the Roman station of Sub-Lanuvium) the post-road quits the Appian, whicli it has followed from Genzano, and makes a detour of some miles in order to pass through Velletri before again joining the ancient line of road near Cisterna. The Via Appia may be seen from this spot traversing the plain in a straight line, marked by a line of ruined tombs. From this and other parts ofthe road Civita Lavinia, noticed in a preceding page, to which a road branches off on the rt., is a conspicuous object. Velletri and the remainder of the road to Terracina and Naples, in cluding the excursions to Cori and Norba, are described in the Handbook for Southern Italy (Rtes. 140, 141). Colonna. A very interesting excursion may be made from Frascati to Colonna, and from Colonna to Palestrina and Genaz zano, visiting the site of the lake of Gabii on the return to Rome. The dis tance from Frascati to Colonna is 5 m., and to Palestrina about 15, requiring 4J hours ; ponies may be hired at Fras cati for these excursions. The road traverses the ancient line of com munication between Tusculum, Labi- cum, and Gabii. About a mile from Frascati it passes near the dried up lake of the Cornufelle, supposed by some antiquarians to be the site of the lake Regillus, the scene of the me morable battle in which the Romans, under the dictator Posthumius, assisted by Castor and Pollux, defeated the most powerful confederation of the Latin tribes, under the Tarquins and Mamilius the chief of Tusculum. The position of the lake immediately under the hills of Tusculum is some argu ment in favour of this locality, which, as Livy tells us, was in the Tus- culan territory, but there are few points in the ancient topography of the environs of Rome more difficult to establish, some placing it at the Lago delle Cave, near the Monte di Fiore, between the 20th and 21st m. Sect. II. COLONNA. PALESTRINA, ETC. 415 on the Via*latina, and others in the great level space occupied by Pantano below Colonna. The lake of Cornufelle was drained in the 17th century by the Borghese family, before which it could not have been much smaller than that of Gabii. It is a curious basin, and its artificial emissary may still be seen. Beyond this the road skirts the base of Monte Porzio, a village of 1390 Inhab., situated on the summit of the hill, and supposed to derive its name from a villa of Cato of Utica, the site of which is placed between Monte Porzio and Colonna, at a spot called Le Cappellette, where there are some ruins. The modern village was built by Gre gory XIII., whose armorial bearings, the Buoncompagni dragons, may be seen over the principal gateway. The only object of interest is the ch., con secrated by Cardinal York in 1766. Beyond this the road passes, at the base of Monte Compatri, another town perched upon a height belonging to Prince Borghese, 'with a population of 2540, and a baronial mansion. It is sup posed to have risen after the ruin of Tusculum in the 12th century ; it con tains nothing of any interest. Colonna occupies the site of the Latin city of Labicum, a colony of Alba : — " Insequitur nimbus peditum, clipeataque totis Agmina densantur campis, Argivaque pubes, A urun casque manus, Rutuli, veteresque Sicani, Et Sacranas acies, efpicti scuta Labici." JEn. vii. 793. The history of the ancient city pre sents few facts which require notice, except its capture and sack by Corio lanus, and the mention made of it by Cicero, who describes Labicum, Bovillae, and Gabii as so much de populated in his time that they could scarcely find any one to represent them at the ceremonies of the Feriae Latinae. The modern village of Colonna holds a conspicuous rank among the towns of the middle ages, as the place from which the princely house of Colonna derives its name, if not its origin. The first mention of the family occurs in the middle ofthe 11th century (1043), when a countess Emilia of Palestrina, the heiress of a branch of the counts of Tusculum, married a baron described as de Columna.* The history of this place during the 12th and 13th cen turies is a continuous record of the contests of the Colonnas with the popes and with the other Roman barons. It was seized in 1297 by Boniface VIIL, and again by Cola di Rienzo in 1354, on his expedition against Palestrina. In the 17th centy, on the extinction of the branch of the Colonna family to whom it belonged, it, together with Gallicano and Zagarolo, passed to the Rospigliosis, their present possessors. The village is now in a state of decay, the number of Inhab. amounting only to about 300. At the base of the hill of Colonna runs the Via Labicana, now the high road to Naples by Frosinone and San Germano. On the rt. of the road to Rome, and about 1| m. below the Osteria della Colonna, and in a line between Colonna and the lake of Gabii, a small pool, not a quarter of a mile in circumference, also regarded by the Roman antiquaries as the lake Regillus. An excellent road of 10 m. leads from the Osteria di Colonna to Palestrina, which as well as the direct road from Rome to Colonna will be described in the following paragraph. Palestrina, etc. Two roads lead from the capital to Palestrina: the best, although some miles longer, is by the Via Labicana, the second by the Via Gabina. In making this excursion the tourist can go by the one and return by the other, thus embracing some of the very inter esting localities of the Campagna; the best plan will be for a party to hire a carriage for the whole time they may be absent. The excursion to Pales trina, and the places to be visited from it, will occupy, with the journey there and back, 3 or 4 days. We shall de scribe here the route by the Via Labi cana, reserving that by the Via Gabina, only a part of which is practicable for carriages (from Rome to the Osteria dell' Ossa, and from Gallicano to Palestrina), until our notice on Gabii, &c. * For a different account of the origin of this great baronial family, see ' Quarterly Review,' No. 229, p. 218. ; 416 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. _ Leaving Rome by the Porta Mag giore, we enter immediately on the Via Labicana (on the rt.) , which runs for the first mile parallel to the Clau dian Aqueduct and the railway to Frascati and Albano. 2 m. from the gate is the Tor Pignatarra, the mauso leum ofthe Empress Helena (see p. 72) ; and 4 miles farther, Torre Nuova, an extensive farming establishment be longing to Prince Borghese, surrounded by those gigantic pine-trees which produce so fine an effect in the land scape of this part of the Roman Cam pagna, and extensive plantations of mulberry-trees, the cultivation of which has been recently introduced here for the first time in the Roman Cam pagna, and with great success. 3 m. beyond Torre Nuova is the solitary Osteria di Finocchio, from which a bridle-road on the 1, of 2 m, leads to the Osteria dell' Osa and Casti- glione, the site of the ancient Gabii. A gradual ascent of 1 m. brings us to a high ground, from which there is an extensive view over Gabii, and the subjacent plain of Pantano with its ex tensive farm-buildings ; a road from the Ponte di Celsi over the Osa at the bottom of the descent leads to the latter — near it are the ruins of an aqueduct of the time of Hadrian. Crossing the plain of Pantano, the sources of the Aqua Felice are seen on the 1.-, marked by its numerous white pyramidal spiracula. From here to the Osteria di Colonna the ascent is long and gradual, passing (on the 1.) the ex tensive quarries of il Laghetto, sur rounding a small circular basin, now dried up, and by some considered to mark the site of the Lake Regillus. The whole of our road for the next 2 m, as well as the hill of Monte Falcone, overlooking the plain of Pan tano on our 1., is situated upon a current of lava, extending to beyond the Osteria della Colonna, the latter about 1 m. below the representative of Labicum, perched upon the volcanic height above. The distance from this osteria to Palestrina is about 10 m, the road good, and the country through which it passes beautiful. 3 m. beyond I' Osteria is S. Cesareo, from which the road descends into a rich valley, where that to Palestrina branches off on the 1.; the Via Labicana continuing by Valmontone to Anagni, Frosinone, &c. 2 m. further still we cross another valley ; here a road on the 1. leads to Zagarolo. Some Roman tombs exca vated in the tufa rock are seen on the road-side. From the bivinm to Zagarolo an ascent of 2 m. brings us to the Parco dei Barberini, a large villa and farmstead, approached by two hand some alleys of elm-trees. During the greater part of these 2 m.the pavement of the Roman road which connected Tusculum with Labicum and Praeneste, with its kerb-stones on either side, is well preserved parallel to the modern highway. 1 m. from the Parco dei Bar berini, or the Villa del Triangolo, as it is more generally called, the road to Cavi and Genazzano branches off on the rt., whilst a gradual ascent brings us to the lower part of Palestrina, which is entered by the Porta del Sole. (There is an Inn, kept by Arena, in the Corso, with tolerable beds, but it will be well to make a bargain be forehand. Atrociously bad. — B. M., March, 1863. Visitors will do better to bring their dinner from Rome, and ask permission to eat it in the Villa Barberini.— -E. M., May, 1863.) Pales trina is the modern representative of the celebrated Prameste, one of the most ancient Greet cities of Italy, and the residence of a king long before the foundation of Rome. Few places in the neighbourhood of Rome afford the traveller so many examples of the different styles of building which prevailed in Italy in the early periods of her history. The ruins of the walls, and of the other edifices for which the ancient city was remarkable, present us with four distinct epochs : in the enormous polygonal masses of the city walls we have a fine example of Pelasgic architecture ; in the smaller polygonal constructions we recognise a later period, when the Pelasgic style was generally imitated in those dis tricts where the local materials were of limestone ; in the quadrilateral massive substructions we see the style of the age of Sylla and of the latter times of Sect. II. PALESTRINA. 417 the republic ; and in the brickwork, known as the " opera laterizia," we have some good specimens of Impe rial times when Praeneste became a Roman municipium. The contests of Praeneste with Rome, and its conquest by Cincinnatus and Camillus, are well known to every reader of history ; Pyrrhus and Haunibal reconnoitred Rome from its citadel ; and the young Caius Marius, after his defeat by Sylla, killed himself within its walls. On his return from the war against Mithridates, Sylla revenged himself on Praeneste for the support given to his rival by destroying the town and putting the inhabitants to the sword ; but he afterwards rebuilt the walls, and to atone for his cruelties embel lished the Temple of Fortune, the magnificence of which made the Athe nian philosopher Carneades declare that he had never seen a Fortune so fortunate as that of Praeneste. Under the emperors, the city was the frequent residence of Augustus, Ti berius, Nero, and Domitian; Hadrian built a magnificent villa in its vicinity, of which considerable remains are still visible. The partiality of Horace for Praeneste is well known : in his epistle to Lollius he tells him that he read the Iliad during his residence in the city (Ep. ii. 1) ; and in one of his most beautiful odes he mentions it among his favourite retreats, classing it with Tibur, Baiae, and his Sabine farm : — " Vester, Camcente, vester in arduos Toiler Sabinos ; seu mihi frigidum Prameste, seu Tibur supinum, Seu liquida? placuere Baire." Od. iii. 4. The modern name of Palestrina oc curs iu ecclesiastical documents as early as a.d. 873. Its whole history during the middle ages is associated with that of the great family of Colonna, who obtained it in 1043 by marriage with the countess Emilia, the descend ants of the Contis, or Counts of Tus culum, as mentioned in our notice of Colonna, to whom it had been infeu- dated by Innocent IV. The ancient citadel and its Pelasgic fortifications were probably perfect at that period, and contributed to render it celebrated as the mountain fastness of the Co lonnas, and as one of the strongholds of the Ghibelines. It would carry us too deeply iuto the history of Rome at this disturbed period to trace the records of the Colonnas during their memorable struggles with the popes ; but the. destruction of the city is so much associated with the reign of Boniface VIII, that it will be necessary to refer briefly to the events which marked the turbu lent career of that Pontiff. The elec tion of Cardinal Caetani as Boniface VIII. was opposed by the two car dinals Giacomo and Pietro Colonna, who retired to Palestrina with their kinsmen Sciarra and Agapito, and refused to admit a papal garrison into any of their patrimonial strongholds. The pope instantly excommunicated them, and issued a bull breathing most violent anathemas against their family, offering plenary indulgence to all who would take up arms against them. He obtained reinforcements from Florence, Orvieto, and Matelica, and in 1298 sent troops against all the fiefs and castles of the family. The cardinals for some time gallantly de fended Palestrina, but were at length compelled to surrender, and with their two kinsmen proceeded to Rieti, where the pope was then residing, and made their submission in full consistory. Boniface summoned to his councils on this occasion the celebrated Guido da Montefeltro, who had entered the mo nastery at Assisi as a Franciscan friar, His perfidious advice, to "promise much and perform little," has been noticed in our account of Assisi, and has been stamped with imperishable infamy by Dante. The pope, acting on this treacherous counsel, absolved the Colonnas from their excommunica tion, and granted them his pardon, at the same time holding out the hope that they would be restored to the possession of Palestrina, whilst he secretly ordered Teodorico Ranieri, bishop of Pisa, to take possession of the city, to dismantle the fortifica tions, and raze all the buildings to the ground, with the exception of the cathedral. So rigorously was this t 3 418 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. order fulfilled, that the ancient custom of driving the ploughshare over the ruins and sprinkling salt upon the fur rows was observed. The property of the inhabitants was confiscated ; they were all driven into the plain below, the site of the Roman municipium of the Imperial period, and there com pelled to build a new town near the ch. of the Madonna dell' Aquila. After these disasters the Colonna family were hunted out of Italy, and the narratives of their wanderings given by the contemporary chroniclers sup ply a curious parallel with the history of our own noble house of Courtenay. Stefano Colonna, who is described by Petrarch as " a phoenix sprung from the ashes of the ancient Romans," as he fled from Rome after the loss of all his possessions, was asked by one of his attendants, " What for tress have you now ?" He placed his hand on his heart, and replied, with a smile, " Eccola .'" The cardinals escaped to France ; Sciarra Colonna fled by sea, was captured by pirates, and after a series of romantic adven tures returned to Rome at the time when the pope was involved in his quarrels with Philip le Bel. Sciarra instantly joined the French party, and avenged the injuries inflicted on his house, by the memorable capture of Boniface at Anagni, which Dante has also handed down to posterity. On the death of Boniface from the conse quences of the barbarous treatment to which he was thus subjected, his succes sor, Benedict XL, absolved the Colonna family from their excommunication, but forbade the rebuilding of Pales trina. This restriction was removed by Clement V, and in 1307 the city began to rise from its ruins under Stefano Colonna. This proceeded so rapidly, that when the emperor, Henry of Luxembourg, came to Rome to be crowned in 1311, Palestrina was in a fit state to receive him and the other Ghibeline chiefs, if the Guelph party, headed by the Orsinis, had offered any opposition. It was also re garded as the head-quarters of Louis of Bavaria, at his coronation in 1328. Stefano Colonna completed the castle in 1332, as we see by the inscription, still legible over the gate. In 1350 this illustrious captain successfully de fended Palestrina against Cola di Rienzo, who made a second attempt to seize it in 1354. The fortress remained for nearly a century strong enough to resist all aggression, but, the Colonnas having allied themselves with Braccio Fortebraccio and Piccinino in 1434, the unscrupulous Cardinal Vitelleschi, legate of Eugenius IV, besieged and captured it in 1436. In the follow ing year he razed it nearly to the ground, and for 40 continuous days laid the town waste with fire and sword, sparing neither the churches nor the convents. In 1438 the Romans completed the work of destruction by destroying the citadel. After this time the inhabitants began to collect their families round the old baronial palace, and in 1448 the Colonnas re built the city, and surrounded it with the walls and towers which we still see. The last historical event worthy of notice is the sale of the city by Francesco Colonna to Carlo Barberini, brother of Urban VIII, in 1630, for the sum of 775,000 scudi, to which family it still belongs, giving to the head of the Barberini family the title of Prince of Palestrina. At the present time Palestrina is an episcopal town of 5320 souls; it is built chiefly on the site of the Temple of Fortune, and upon the de clivity of the commanding hill on which the citadel stood. It contains no mo dern buildings of any interest, except the Barberini Palace of the 17th century, now almost deserted, the Ch. of S. Rosalia, close to the latter, containing an unfinished group ofthe Pieta attributed to M. Angelo(?), and some tombs of the Colonna and Barberini families. The temple of Fortune must have been of immense extent, if we may judge from the ruins still visible, and from terraces on which it stood. One of these latter, the Ripiano della Cortina, is occupied by the Barberini palace, which is built on the foundations of the hemicycle that stood before the Sacrarium of the Divinity, not a fragment of which now remains. The most remarkable ob- Sect. It. PALESTRINA. 419 jects preserved in this palace are some fragments of inscriptions and statues discovered among the ruins; a large hall covered with frescoes attributed to the Zuccheris, representing on the vault Jupiter and Venus in a chariot drawn by doves and peacocks, and Apollo in the centre, with a view of Palestrina on one of the walls ; and particularly the celebrated mosaic pavement found in one of the semicircular niches of the approaches to the temple, well known as the " Mosaic of Palestrina." It was so highly prized when first discovered, that Cardinal Francesco Barberini in 1640 employed Pietro da Cortona to remove it to its present site. There is scarcely any relic of ancient art which has been so much the subject of antiquarian controversy. Father Kir- cher considered its subject to express the vicissitudes of fortune ; Cardinal de Polignac thought it represented the voyage of Alexander to the oracle of Jupiter Ammon ; Cecconi and Volpi that it illustrated the history of Sylla ; Montfaucon regarded it as a represen tation of the course of the Nile ; Winckelmann as the meeting of Helen and Menelaus in Egypt; Chapuy as the embarkation of Egyptian grain for Rome; the Abbe Barthelemy as the voyage of Hadrian to Elephantina; and the Abbe Fea as the conquest of Egypt by Augustus. There can be no doubt that the subject is Egyptian, and it is now generally considered to represent a popular fete at the inundation of the Nile. The names of the animals are given in Greek characters: among these we recognise the rhinoceros, the sphinx, the crocodile, the giraffe, the lioness, the lizard, the lynx, the bear, the tiger, &c. The mosaic has been recently restored and placed by Prince Barberini in the great hall on the first fioor, where it can be well seen, and a new description of it published by Don Sante Pieralisi, Librarian of the Barberini Library at Rome (Osser- vazioni sul Musaico di Palestrina, fol. 1858). From the windows of this hall there is one of the finest views in Italy. The ruins of the Temple of Fortune, restored by Sylla, are very interesting ; the best preserved portion is in the Piazza Tonda, near the Cathe dral, consisting on the outside of 4 Corinthian half-columns, and within of a large hall, converted at one time into the wine-cellar and kitchen of the Semi nary; it is flanked with Corinthian pilasters and terminated by a tribune, the floor of which was formed of the celebrated mosaic above described. Canina considers this building as the eastern one of 2 aisles, which stood upon the second terrace leading to the Temple. The semicircular portico which formed the uppermost terrace, and which preceded the Sacrarium of the Proenestine Fortune, can be easily traced on the front of the baronial palace of the Barberinis, above which rose the temple, and at . a higher point still the scene of the Sortes Prce- nestinw. The fame of this shrine is well known from the description of Cicero, who gives a curious account of the institution of the "Sortes." (De Divin. ii.) A visit to the ancient citadel on the summit of the hill will interest the traveller more than the examination of these ruins. A bridle- road has been made, for which travel lers may procure donkeys at the inn ; but persons wishing to examine the polygonal walls will do better to ascend on foot, through the suburb of il Schi- acciato, at the N. extremity of which they will come upon a portion which extends without interruption to the top of the hill, where it joins the wall of the citadel, and from which another equally massive descends to the Porta de' Cappuccini, the two enclosing a triangular space, of which the fortress forms the summit and the town the base, as we see in the Scaligerian fort resses of Northern Italy. The view commanded during the ascent is alone sufficient to repay the fatigue. As we advance we pass enormous masses of the polygonal walls which united the ancient citadel or Arx with the town below. These walls afford a good example of this style of construc tion, and may be traced on both sides of the ascent, nearly throughout their entire course. The citadel is now called the Castel di San Pietro, from a tradition that it was for some time the 420 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome. residence of the apostle : it contains a few poor houses which have arisen from the ruins of the town erected by the Colonnas. The old fortress of the family, although dilapidated, still preserves many memorials of the mid dle ages. Over the principal gateway is the well-known armorial columna with the initials (S. C.) of Stefano, who rebuilt the town and castle, as we learn by the inscription, in Gothic characters :— magnificus . dns. STEFAN. — DE COLUMNA REDIFICAVIT — ¦ CIVITATEM PRENESTE CO\ MONTE ET arce . anno 1332. The ch, dedicated to St. Peter, was erected in the 17th century, on the site of a pre-existing one of the time of Gregory the Great, and restored in 1730. It contains a picture of the Saviour delivering the keys to St. Peter, by Pietro da Cortona ; a statue of the apostle, by the school of Bernini ; and a cippus, now used for a holy-water basin, on which is an in scription to Publius jElius Tiro, a com mander of the German cavalry in the time of Commodus. The view from this commanding eminence (2512 ft. above the sea) can hardly be sur passed in this district of beautiful panoramas, and the traveller who en joys it cannot be surprised that Pyr- rhus and Hannibal ascended the hill to reconnoitre the localities about Rome. At the extremity of the plain is the capital, with the dome of St. Peter's rising prominently above all the other buildings ; in the middle distance we see the site ofthe lake of Gabii, and the Anio winding through the Campagna from the hills of Tivoli to its junction with the Tiber below the heights of an cient Antemnae. Immediately in front are the villages and towns clustered on the outer craterof the Albanmount, pro minent among which are Rocca Priora, Monte Compatri, and Monte Porzio : at the foot of this range are Colonna and Frascati, while in the centre of the crater, towering above all the rest, is seen the summit of Monte Pila, con cealing Monte Cavo from our view. On the 1. is the valley of the Sacco, in which we recognise Valmontone, Anagni, Paliano, and Cavi; and on the declivity of the Volscian Mountains, Colle Ferro, Monte Fortino, Rocca Massimi, and Segni : on the rt, among the hills of which Palestrina forms a part, are Poli, Monte Affliano (the site of iEsula), and the heights of Tivoli. Immediately behind the citadel are Rocca di Cavi and Capranica, most picturesquely perched on the top of 2 pointed peaks. Among the antiquities discovered at Palestrina may be men tioned the fragments of the Fasti of Verrius Flaccus, mentioned by Sue tonius, found here in 1773 by Car dinal Stoppani, and well known to scholars by the learned dissertation of Nibby. They are now preserved in the Vidoni palace at Rome. At a short distance below the town, near the ch. of the Madonna dell' Aquila, antiquaries place the site ofthe Forum erected by Tiberius and the Roman municipium ; about a mile farther off are the ruins ofthe extensive villa built by Hadrian, and enlarged by Antoninus Pius : they give name to the ch. of S. Maria della Villa, and cover the surface for nearly j m. The style of their construction presents a great similarity to that of Hadrian's villa near Tivoli: the colossal statue of the Braschi Antinous, now in the Lateran Museum, was discovered here. On the road to Cavi a mile beyond the Porta del Sole, we cross the Fosso di Palestrina by the Ponte dello Spedaletto, near which is an octagonal ruin bearing a remarkable analogy to that of the so-called Tempio della Tosse at Tivoli. The older antiqua ries described it as a Serapeon, as a Temple of the Sun, and as the Schola Faustiniana ; it is now generally con sidered to be a Christian church of the 4th or 5th century. In all parts of the country around the lower town are numerous ruins and traces of foundations, the remains probably of patrician villas ; but the description of their imperfect fragments would have little interest, and would in volve many antiquarian theories which it would be a hopeless task to attempt to reconcile. The traveller will be more gratified with the exami nation of the fine fragment of the ancient road which connected the Via Sect. II. CAVE. — GENAZZANO. 421 Praenestiaa with the Via Labicana: it is paved with massive polygonal blocks of lava, and is still perfect for a considerable distance. From Palestrina pleasant excursions may be made to Cave, Genazzano, Olevano, and Paliano. At Genazzano, Olevano, and Paliano the traveller has before him the choice of 3 : the first, from Genazzano to Subiaco, by S. Vito and Civitella, through a very picturesque country ; the second, dur ing the greater part of which there is now a good carriage-road, he may proceed from Olevano to Subiaco by Affile, and, from Subiaco, return to Rome by Tivoli, visiting on his way the site of Horace's Sabine farm, and ascending Monte Genaro ; and in the third, from Paliano he may visit Anagni, Ferentino, Segni, and the valley of the Sacco, described in the Handbook for Southern Italy, and either extend his tour to the Pelasgic fort ress of Alatri, the most convenient point from which the Grotto of Colle- pardo can be reached, and proceed from Veroli by the monastery of Ca- samari and Castelluccio to Isola and Sora, to Arpino beyond the Italian frontier, or return to Rome by Cori, Norba, Velletri, and Albano. A new and excellent road, the Via Pedimontana, of about 15 m, leads from Palestrina to Tivoli, passing through Zagarolo and Passerano. Cave, 3 miles from Palestrina, a town of 1400 Inhab, built on the slopes of the Monte di Mentorella, one of the most picturesque places in this beautiful district. The road is ancient and was probably the line of com munication between Palestrina and the Via Latina near Anagni : in many parts the polygonal pavement is per fect. In following this road we tra verse the battle-field on which C. Aquilius Tuscus defeated the Her nici, B.C. 487. We cross the Ponte dello Spedaletto, before mentioned ; and near Cave pass the fine modern bridge of 7 arches, built in 1827 over the deep torrent of Santa Cristina, one of the tributaries of the Sacco, The town was built by the Colon nas, who held it as early as the 11th century: it was one of the de pendencies of Palestrina, and shared in its fortunes and reverses. It is memorable for the treaty of peace signed in 1557 between the duke of Alba and the Caraffeschi. Above the town is Rocca di Cave, with 500 Inhab, 3 m. distant, upon the summit of a com manding hill. The road from Cave to Paliano is good, and one of the most beautiful in this district. A steep descent on leaving Cave brings us into the valley, whence the road again ascends to the ch. of S. Giacomo and S. Anna, finely situated on a hill over looking the valley of the Sacco. Be yond it a road on the 1. hand, through the Olmata , leads to Genaz zano. Genazzano, a highly picturesque town of 3100 Inhab., on the slopes of a steep hill above the Capranica torrent, sur mounted by a baronial castle, which is cut off from the rest of the hill, and protected by a drawbridge. It derives its name from the an cient Roman family of Genucia, the ruins of whose villa are still visible. It passed to the Colonnas at the same time as Palestrina and Colonna, and was for many cen turies the' stronghold of a branch of their family. It is said to have been the birthplace of Martin V. It is also remarkable for the treacherous murder of his kinsman Stefano Co lonna in 1433. In the following year it was occupied by Fortebraccio, during his attack on Rome. In 1461 Pius II. resided here for some time, and in 1557 it was the head-quarters of the duke of Alba prior to the treaty of Cave. It is now remarkable only for the beauty of its position, and for the rich chapel of the Madonna di Buon Consiglio, one of the celebrated shrines in this part of Italy. At the festa of the Madonna the peasantry assemble from all parts of the surrounding coun try, and from beyond the Neapolitan frontier ; there is probably no place in the neighbourhood of Rome in which the artist will find so many subjects 422 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. R ome. for his pencil as at the Festa of Ge nazzano. There are some pretty pieces of pointed architecture here, especially an upper floor in the principal street : the only Inn in the place is very in different. There is a fair road through the mountains, the Via Empolitana, very picturesque in many parts, passing by San Vito, Pisciano, and Ciciliano, from which it descends the valley ofthe Arpi- lone, the ancient Empulura, to debouch into the valley of the Anio near Tivoli, a very interesting excursion for the pedestrian tourist. Olevano, 6 m. from Genazzano, and 12 from Subiaco, another picturesque town of 3070 souls, built on a rocky hill at the foot of Monte del Corso, in the midst of the most romantic scenery, which has been for ages the study of the land scape-painters of Rome, who resort to it in summer for weeks together. The little inn above the town is de scribed by a correspondent as the " perfectionof rustic comfort." It is en tirely a town of the middle ages ; and is said to have derived its name from the appropriation of its revenues to pro vide certain churches of its territory with the incense called Olibanum. In the 1 2th century it was a baronial castle of the Frangipanis, who subsequently exchanged it for that of Tivera, near Velletri, when Olevano became the pro perty of the Benedictine monastery of Subiaco. In the 13th century it passed to the Colonnas, who held it till the 1 7th, when they sold it to the Borgheses, who still possess it. The approach to Olevano from the side of Subiaco is extremely fine : the old castle of the 13th century, built by the Colonnas on a massive rock, is seen to great advantage ; and the insulated hill of Paliano combines with the distant chain of the Volscian mountains to form one of the most beautiful scenes in Italy. In the Piazza is a fountain with an inscription recording the creation of an aque duct by Pius VI, and its restoration in 1820 by Benedetto Greco, "for the love of his country;" an example of local patriotism which might be advantageously followed in many of the large capitals. The ch, dedicated to Sta. Margherita, is one of the finest buildings in the town. On the E. of Olevano are the ruins of an impe rial villa, in which numerous ancient fragments and a marble urn with bas- reliefs, now preserved in the castle of the Colonnas at Genazzano, were discovered. A rough but interesting and very beautiful path as far as Rojate leads from Olevano to Subiaco, through that village and Affile. Rojate, a moun tain-village of 750 Inhab, appears, from some remains of walls built of large rectangular blocks, to occupy the site of an ancient city. Affile is mentioned by Pliny, and its antiquity is confirmed by numerous inscriptions and marble fragments discovered in its neighbour hood, which we see in the walls of the churches and other buildings. The distance from Olevano to Rojate is 4 m, from Rojate to Affile 5 m, from Affile to Subiaco 5i m. : the road be tween Rojate and Affile is very rough, and the excursion can hardly be per formed in less than 4 hours on horse back. There is a carriage-road from Subiaco to Olevano in progress, already open from the latter as far as Civitella. Paliano, 8 m. from Cave by the direct road, and 5 m. from Genazzano, finely situated on a rocky hill, in the terri tory of the Hernici, and one of the strongest positions at the entrance of the valley of the Sacco. Indeed it is rather a fortress than a town, for it is strongly defended by towers and bastions of the 1 6th century, and it has only one approach, by means of a drawbridge. The population amounts to 4500. Paliano appears to have risen in the 1 0th century, from which time its natural strength made it an important post in the contests of the Roman barons. It was one of the strongholds of the counts of Segni until the pontificate of Martin V, who conferred it on his nephews Antonio and Odoardo Colonna. It is cele brated for its defence by Prospero Co lonna against Sixtus IV., when Pros- Sect. II. ZAGAROLO. — GALLICANO. 423 pero, fea«ng treachery on the part of the inhabitants, seized the children of the principal citizens and sent them to Genazzano as hostages. It remained in the Colonna family until 1556, when Paul IV, in his quarrel with Marc Antonio, deprived him of his feudal possessions, and conferred Pa liano on his own nephew Giovanni Caraffa, who was afterwards beheaded by Pius IV. With this douation.Paul IV. raised Paliano to the rank of a duchy. The fortifications, which now form the chief feature of the town, were built by the Caraffas, and were so perfectly impregnable by the war fare of that time, that Paliano be came a position of some consequence as a frontier fortress against Naples : of late years it has been converted into a prison for criminals condemned to perpetual or lengthened imprison ment. After the victory of Marc An tonio Colonna II. over the Turks at Lepanto, his family were reinstated in their baronial possessions, and have ever since held Paliano : it gives a ducal title to the present head of the Colonna family. A tolerable road leads from Paliano to Anagni, below which we fall into the road and rail way to Naples, by Ferentino, Frosin one, and Ceprano. Zagarolo. Travellers who have visited Colonna on their way to Palestrina will do well in returning to Rome to take the road by Zagarolo and the ruins of Gabii. Zagarolo, the ancient Scaptia, is 6 m. from Palestrina, about 21m. from Rome by the Via Praenestina, and about 3 m. from the modern road, to Naples, at San Cesareo, which follows the Via Labicana. It is a town of 4560 Inhab., situated on the summit of a long ridge of land, almost insulated by two streams that join below the town, which consists of one narrow street nearly a mile in length, and from the numerous antiquities discovered is sup posed to occupy the site of an imperial villa. One of these antiquiiies, a sitting statue of Jupiter with the eagle and thunderbolts, is placed over the gate towards Rome. Many of the houses are as old as the 13 th century : the churches and piazze are decorated with marble columns and inscriptions found upon the spot. Zagarolo was a place of some interest in the history of the middle ages. In the 12th century it belonged to the Colonnas : in the contest of Boni face VIII. with that family it was de stroyed by the papal party, and re built by the Colonnas on their recovery of Palestrina. It was besieged and captured by Cardinal Vitelleschi in the pontificate of Eugenius IV, after a siege of three months, and partly de stroyed. It became memorable under Gregory XIV. as the scene of the con ference of theologians commissioned by that pontiff to revise the edition of the Bible known as the Vulgate. An inscription in the palace records this event, and gives the names ofthe pre lates who took part in it. In the 17th century it became the property of Prince Rospigliosi, to whose eldest son it gives a ducal title. The palace, situated in the middle of the town, commands an extensive view over the Campagna. Gallicano, 3 m. from Zagarolo, and 5 from Palestrina, on the more direct road leading from the latter to Rome ; it is supposed to occupy the site of Pedum, one of the towns of the Latin confede ration; it has a Pop. of 1025 Inhab, and is built on an eminence of volcanic tufa between two torrents, which so completely encircle it as to leave only a narrow neck by which it is entered, as we see in several ancient towns, Veii, Cervetri, &c. Although a fa vourite resort of the Romans, scarcely a vestige of ancient monuments is to be met in it. Cicero, Tibullus, and many other eminent personages had villas at Pedum. The present name is attri buted to Ovinius Gallicanus, Prefect of Rome a.d. 330, who had the honour of being declared a saint in the Ro man calendar. In the middle ages Gallicano was an important fief of the Colonnas, who sold it to the Pallavi- cinis, from whom it has descended to the younger branch of the Rospigliosi, to whom it gives the title of Prince. 424 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Ro Poll About lj m. from Gallicano, towards Poli, the road crosses a deep ravine, which is spanned by the so-called Ponte dell' Acqua Rossa, the point of junctionof the four aqueducts of ancient Rome, which derived their waters from the upper valley of the Anio, viz. the Anio Vetus, Aqua Marcia, Anio Novus, and Aqua Claudia. Farther on a ride of 4 m, ascending by the Fosso della Mola, will bring the tourist to Poli, formerly a dependency of Palestrina, from which it is 8 m. distant : it is near the opening of a valley from the Apennines, through which descends the Mola torrent ; and contains a Pop. of 1120 Inhab. At the foot of the hill on which it stands is the handsome villa Catana, once the property of the Conti family, one of whom, Innocent XIII, enlarged and decorated it : some fres coes by Giulio Romano may still be seen: it now belongs to Duke Tor lonia. Roads lead from Poli to Tivoli (12 m.) through Calape and San Gre- gorio, across the mountains ; to Pales trina, also through the hills, and a picturesque country (8 m.), descend ing to the latter by the Castel di San Pietro; across the Monte Scalandrona to Capranica and Genazzano; and a fourth by S. Vittorino, the Osteria di Corcolle, passing 1 m. N. of Gabii. Gabii. The most convenient mode of visiting the site of this once celebrated city will be from Rome, as, the distance being little more than 12 m, it will form the object of an excursion of 4 or 5 h. only. We have the choice of 2 roads— the one by the Via Labicana, as fax as the Osteria di Finocchio, which is described in the excursion to Palestrina (p. 415), and the second by the Via Gabina or Pramestina, which, although the most hilly, is shorter, and passes over a more interesting part of the Campagna. Emerging from the Porta Maggiore and following the road (Via Praenestina), at the distance of J m. we pass on the 1., in a vineyard belonging to the Irish Dominican friars of S. Clemente, and close to the road, a large circular sepul chre 50 yds. in diameter, having a vine yard on the summit, and one-fifth larger than that of Messalla Corvinus on the Via Appia: it is supposed to have belonged to T. Quintus Atta, ofthe Claudian family, a writer of fables in verse, who died about A.u.c. 678. The outer covering, in Alban stone, has been removed. On the N. side is an opening to the gallery leading to the mortuary cell, in the form of a Greek cross. l£m. from the Porta Maggiore we pass on the rt. the farm of I' Acqua Bollicante, the supposed limits of the territory of ancient Rome, where the Arvales sang their well-known hymn ; and farther on, but to the 1, several masses of ruins, on the Tenuta, or Farm of the Tor dei Schiavi ; those on the 1. are supposed to form part of the villa ofthe Gordian Emperors, described by J. Capitolinus : they consist of the remains of a large reservoir; of a consi derable portion of a circular building which formed a hall ofthe thermas ; of a round temple having still a part of its dome-shaped roof, and some of the circular openings by which it was lighted. This edifice, a fine specimen of brickwork, is circular both without and within, and 43 ft. in diameter. In front is a pediment, on which stood an hexastyle portico, approached by a flight of steps. The inside has 7 niches, alternately round and square. Beneath is a fine crypt, supported by a huge central pier. It had two entrances, on the N. and S. sides, and the same form as the temple above, with a similar number of niches. This very curious crypt was covered with slabs of marble, and may have probably served as a sepulchral chamber. Ac cording to Julius Capitolinus the temple was surrounded by an exten sive portico, the entrance facing the road. The ruins of arches close to it on the E. are supposed to have formed a part of the Tetrastylon mentioned by the same author as being annexed to the villa ofthe Gordians, and which had opening out of it 3 basilicas. Plans of all these edifices restored may be seen in Canina's work on the Environs of Sect. II. GABII. 425 Rome. Thi^most important discovery is 3 rooms, at the base of a circular edi fice, between the Temple and the Tor dei Schiavi, with good floors in black and white arabesque mosaic. The ruins on the opposite side of the road belong to some Roman villas, and to tombs which lined the road. The Via Collatina, which leads to Lung hezza, a short way beyond this strikes off on the 1, and 2 m. farther we pass Tor Tre Teste, a mediaeval tower so called from 3 mutilated bustsin relief built into its walls. Beyond this the road, which crosses several streams descending from the Tusculan hills, offers little interest until the 9th m. from Rome, when it passes over a deep ravine by the fine viaduct called the Ponte di Nona, a remarkable Roman work, erected for the purpose of supporting the Via Prasnestina in a straight line, and on a level . The period of its construction is not known, but from its massive nature, consisting of huge rectangular blocks of lapis ga- binus, and the similarity of its style of masonry to that of the Tabularium of the Capitol, it is considered to belong to the same period (the 7th cent, of Rome). It is certainly the finest con struction of the kind in the vicinity of the capital. By descending into the ra vine, it will be seen to consist of 7 lofty arches of masonry in horizontal courses, almost Etruscan in their style. The ancient pavement is also still preserved. 2 m. beyond this we arrive at the Osteria dell' Osa, on the bank of the stream of that name. The carriage must be left here, and the remainder of the excursion performed on horse back; or the carriage can be sent round to opposite Castiglione, about 2 m. farther on the Via Prasnestina (Strada di Poli). Following the road to Gallicano for less than a mile, but scarcely practicable for a carriage, we arrive at the S. extre mity of the ridge which extends in a N. direction to the tower of Castig lione : we soon reach the ruins of the Temple of Juno and of the Roman municipium. From here following the ridge which separates the plain of Pantano on the S. from that of Gabii on the W, a walk of less than 1 m. will bring us to the farm-buildings of Castiglione, the supposed site of the most ancient Gabii. In proceeding from the osteria to the ruins we traverse the spot where the subterranean noises on the passage of horses over the hol low ground are still heard as de scribed by Pliny: " qumdam vero terro? ad gressus tremunt, sicut in Gabinensi agro non procul urbe Roma jugera fei-me ducenta equitantium cursu." The site of this ancient city was fully ascer tained by prince Marcantonio Borghese in 1792, when many of the valuable sculptures now in the Louvre were dis covered. It is supposed that Castiglione occupies the site of the ancient citadel, and that the city extended from Pan tano along the ridge above the eastern side of the lake, the highest portion of the lip of the crater. The history of Gabii is too well known to require our entering into details on the subject: it will suffice to state that it was of Alban origin, having been founded by Latinus Sylvius ; that it was celebrated by the Roman historians as the place to which Romulus and Remus were sent by Nu- mitor to learn the Greek language ; and that it remained independent until it was seized upon by Tarquinius Su- perbus, aided by the treachery of his son Sextius, and fell under the power of Rome without a struggle. It was subsequently ruined in the wars of Sylla, and Horace describes it as de serted in his time : — " Scis Lebedos quid sit? Gabiis desertior atque Fidenis vicus." Ep. i. 11. From this state of decadence Gabii recovered in some degree during the imperial period : it acquired a certain celebrity for its baths, which had proved beneficial to Augustus, and in the time of Hadrian became of some importance ; to this period probably belong the ruins of the municipium and of the temple of Juno. In the reign of Con stantine it had fallen totally into de cay, and is merely alluded to in some ecclesiastical documents as a farm given to the Lateran Baptistery by that Em peror. The principal ruin, the Temple of Juno Gabina, is celebrated by Virgil : 426 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome. '' quique arva Gabinae Junonis, gelidumque Anienem, etroscida rivis Plernica saxa colunt." JZneid vii. The walls of the cella are still perfect, composed of rectangular masses of stone without cement, in the early Ro man style : many of these blocks are 4 feet long and 2 feet high. The interior of the cella, nearly 50 feet in length, still retains its ancient pavementof white mosaic, with the sacrarium 6 feet deep. Close to this are some fragments of fluted columns of the Ionic order, on which the stucco coating is still visible, and the ruins of the Greek theatre, with remains of a few of the seats. On the right of the neck of the ridge leading from the ruins of the temple to Castiglione is a continued series of excavations, from which ancient Rome derived its supply ofthe volcanic stone called lapis gabinus, and of which many of the earliest monuments of Rome have been constructed. Castiglione retains some of its mediaeval walls and its ruined tower of the 13th century, built on the walls of ancient Gabii, a fine fragment of which, composed of rectangular blocks 5 or 6 courses deep, may be seen at the N.W. angle of the tower. The Lake of Gabii. — It may appear singular that, though the city is noticed by many of the classical writers, no mention of the lake occurs until the 5th century, when it is found in some docu ments relating to the martyrdom of S. Primitivus, who was beheaded at Gabii, and his body thrown into the lake, which is confirmed by the discovery of the ancient emissarium, by which it was drained ; the latter being choked up at an early period, the low land was reduced to a swamp, until the drain into the Osa was repaired. In the 8th century it was called the Lago di Burrano ; and in the 14th, after the building of Castiglione, it took the name of that hamlet. The whole pro perty belonged to the Colonnas, who sold it in 1614 to Cardinal Scipio Bor ghese, in whose family it has since remained. The lake was drained a few years ago by Prince Borghese, under the direction of Canina, who constructed I a new emissarium, which has converted I it from the state of a pestilential marsh into a district of fertility. About a mile from the Osteria, on the I., following the valley of the Osa, is Castello dell' Osa, supposed to occupy the site of the Alban city of Collatia, cele brated as the scene of the death of Lucretia. The walk through this pretty valley is very agreeable, and the tra veller should extend it to Lunghezza, 3 m. lower down, near the junction of the Osa with the Anio, where he may visit its large farm-buildings belong ing to Duke Strozzi. The road from Gabii to Palestrina fol lows the line of the Via Praenestina ; the ancient pavement is still visible through a considerable portion of its extent; it becomes impracticable for carriages after quitting the ruins of Gabii, and iscarried nearly in a straight line over the ridges of hill and valley by which this part of the Campagna is traversed from S.E. to N.W. About 7 m. beyond the Osteria dell' Osa the road crosses that from Tivoli to Zagarolo, and immediately beyond this it is car ried through a deep and picturesque cutting in the tufa rock, evidently a Roman work, as the road here retains throughout its ancient pavement. A little chapel at the entrance of this cutting is called Santa Maria di Cava- monte ; here is also a small osteria. The town of Zagarolo is seen on a hill to the rt. Remains of the Claudian, Marcian, and Anio Novus aqueducts are seen in several places on the rt. before reaching Cavamonte ; in this part of its course it is repeatedly carried by tunnels through the narrow ridge of hills, as well as upon arches across the ravines that separate them. Upon the hill above Cavamonte are numerous remains of a Roman town, probably Pedum, one of the Latin Confedera tion : amongst others, the ruins of an amphitheatre, 145 ft. in its longest diameter. About J- m. after passing through the cutting the road to Pales trina turns abruptly to the rt, leaving that to Gallicano on the 1, and ascends the hill towards the large convent of San Pastore, which is a conspi cuous object from all this neigh bourhood. The Roman pavement Sect. II. LUNGHEZZA. — COLLATIA.- — CERVARO. 427 has here disappeared, but the line is still retained. Shortly beyond the convent remains of tombs show that we are still on the line of the Via Praenes- tina. From San Pastore to Palestrina the road is again practicable for car riages ; it follows the line of a narrow ridge between two deep ravines of the Molella and Cavarello torrents, leaving Zagarolo on the rt, and joins the carriage-road from Rome to Palestrina, the Via Labicana, at the Madonna dell' Aquila, just before entering the town. Lunghezza, Collatia, &c. Amongst the many agreeable excur sions over the Campagna, there is perhaps none which will offer more beautiful scenery, and occupation to the artist and sketcher, than a visit to Lun ghezza and a roam through the woods in its vicinity : it may be easily made in a day, the distance from Rome being about 10 m. The road to Lunghezza is the same as that to Gabii (p. 416) as far as the Tor dei Schiavi, and in the rest is good and adapted for carriages : beyond Lunghezza the tourist must take to foot, or to a light vehicle to be pro cured there. After branching off from the Via Praenestina, the Via Collatina soon gains the line of the aqueduct of the Aqua Virgo, which itfollows for the next 3 m, leavingon the l.thefarms of S. Anastasia, of Bocca di Leone, and Cer- varetto, and on the rt. Tor di Sapienza, a mediaeval tower, with a square battle- mented curtain round the base. Before reaching the latter the road to Cerbara, a very picturesque locality, much fre quented by artists, branches off on the !., the distance being about 1 m, pass ing near Cervaretto ; farther on, to the 1. is the Casale di Rustica, once the pro perty of Lucullus and of Elius the father of Lucius Verus. 8 m. from Rome a steep descent brings us to the farm of Salone, in a marshy valley, where are the sources of the Acqua Vergine. 2J m. beyond Salone we arrive at Lunghezza, a collection of farm-buildings, on the site of a baronial castle, formerly the property of the Medicis, from whom it has descended by inheritance to the Florentine Duke Strozzi: it is situated on a high pro montory, in a sharp bend of the Teverone, commanding a good view of the river, and of the farm of Casa Rossa, on the opposite bank. A short way beyond, the road crosses the river Osa, from which a bridle-path of 2 m. leads to Castiglione ; during which the tourist will enjoy a lovely view of the Sabine and Alban mountains ; or following the 1. bank of the Osa through the woods that clothe its sides, after lj m. he will reach Castello d' Osa, better known among the peasantry as Castel- laccio, the probable site of Collatia, which is marked by a high tower, and an abrupt precipice of lava rising from the bank of the river, corresponding with the description in the ' iEneid ' — " Ne Collatinas imponent montibus Arces." Some remains of an ancient road are met with between Castellaccio and the Osteria dell' Osa, which connected the Via Collatina with that to Prseneste, and a tumulus with some traces of tombs excavated in the tufa rock. It will be scarcely necessary to inform our reader that Collatia was one of the early colonies of Alba, founded by Latinus Sylvius ; that after the destruction of Alba Longa it was held successively by the Sabines and Romans ; that here dwelt Lucretia when she was the victim of the brutality of Sextus, the son of Tarquinius Superbus, which con tributed to the fall of the kingly power at Rome ; and that the first Brutus was probably brought up here — ¦ " Altris Casti Collatia Bruti." The tourist, if a good walker, will be able to visit Collatia, Gabii, Ponte di Nona in the same day, and more easily still on horseback; leaving Rome by the Via Collatina, and returning by Osteria dell' Osa, Ponte di Nona, &c. The geologist win observe in the valley of Castellaccio a fine current of lava, on which numerous quarries were opened in ancient times. Cervaro.- — This picturesque locality is about 4 m. from Rome, and is most easily reached from the Via Collatina. By taking a field-gate on 1. after passing the aqueduct of the Acqua Vergine, descending beyond the farm of Cervaretto, we reach Cervaro, a 428 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. farm-house on a table-land which forms very picturesque escarpments. Here are several grottoes, from which building-stone, a compact variety of vol canic tufa, was formerly extracted in large quantities. One of these, called the Grotta dei Tedeschi, is sometimes resorted to by the German artists during their festival (see p. xxxii). The envi rons of Cervaro are often made during the fine days of April and May the rendezvous of picnic parties. This as well as the neighbouring castellated farm of Cervaretto, or Cervaletto, upon an eminence of tufa, belong to Prince Borghese. The Via Nomentana, Monte Sacro, Catacombs of S. Alessandro, Men- tana, Monte Rotondo, &c. This interesting excursion can be made in a day, embracing the several sites on the Via Nomentana, and re turning by the Via Salara. Mentana is 14 m. from Rome, and returning by Monte Rotondo 17. Leaving Rome by the Porta Pia, we pass a series of villas on the rt. belong ing to the Roman nobility : that near the gate, the property of the Marquis Patrizzi, has been recently rebuilt, having been destroyed during the siege in 1849. On the 1, at some distance, is the Villa Albani, which forms a re markable contrast, in its architectural taste, with its more modern neighbour, the V. Patrizzi. Farther on are the Villas of Duke Massimo and Prince Torlonia, the latter containing some pigmy copies of ancient edifices, alto gether a very gingerbread kind of affair. Beyond this a slight ascent brings us to the ch. of Sant' Agnese fuori le Mura (see p. 140), from which a gradual de scent, during which the line of rly. is crossed, leads to the Anio, whicli is crossed by the Ponte Lomentano. This part of the road deviates slightly from the ancient line, the course of which, farther to the 1, is marked by a large brick tomb, called the Sediaccia, or La Seclia del Diavolo, from its resemblance to a seat as seen from the road, the wall on that side being broken down. The Ponte L. (Pons Nomentanus) was built by Narses after the destruction of a more ancient one by Totila : the upper part and its tower are of the 8th cent, the more recent defences were added in the 15th by Nicholas V, Soon after crossing the river we pass on each side of the road two large ruiued tombs, from which an ascent carries the road over a low hill, the cele brated Mons Sacer, where the Roman Plebeians retired, b.c. 494, under Menennius Agrippa, to assert their liberties. It is supposed that this gathering took place upon the rising ground overlooking the Anio to the rt, where a temple to Jupiter was erected to commemorate it. The name of Sacred, given to the locality, was from the Lex Sacrata decreed on that memorable occasion. 1 m. farther are the castellated farm-buildings and villa of Casal dei Pazzi, before reaching which a road branches off to the 1. leading to the farms of le Vigne Nuove (1 m.), of the Casale delle Belle Donne (4 m.), and the valley of the Allia, a very agreeable drive of 4 m. over the Cam pagna. Beyond Casal de' Pazzi the road skirts the valley of the Cecchina, and on the top of the ascent beyond passes a ruined brick tomb called la Spunta Pietra, an elegant little edifice in the style of that of the Divus Redi culus (p. 38), consisting of an upper and lower chamber, with traces of ornamental stucco-work in the former. Some fragments of the ancient pave ment are seen near here on the side of the modern road. Near the 6th m, and on our 1, are the farm-buildings of Coarzo and Pietra Aurea, and on the opposite side of, and close to, the road, the Oratory and Catacombs of St. Alexander. In speaking of the cata combs in the more immediate vicinity of Rome, we have alluded to the dis covery made here, in 1853, of an early Christian ch. ; it was well known from the History of the Martyrs, that Pope Alexander I, who suffered in the reign of Trajan, a.d. 117, had been buried in this catacomb, with the Presbyter Eventius and the Deacon Theodulus, in a cemetery upon the estate of a Roman lady named Severina, recently con verted to Christianity. On the site, indeed in the Catacomb itself was Sect. II. CATACOMB OF S. ALESSANDRO. 429 erected in^ie 2nd cent, an Oratory to St. Alexander, but after the Peace of the Church, when larger space was required, the oratory, originally under ground, was laid open, and a ch. built over, the ruins of which have been re cently disinterred, and into which the bodies of the martyr pope and his companions had been removed. This ch, now below the general level of the Campagna, consists of 4 por tions : descending by a flight of steps, we arrive in a, kind of vestibule, out of which opens on the rt. the prin cipal oratory, the floor of which is paved with fragments of marble, with some early sepulchral inscriptions ; in the centre stands the altar, the table con sisting of a slab of porphyry, supported by 4 rude Corinthian pillars ; beneath is a sarcophagus composed of slabs, in which lay the body of St. Alexander, enclosed within a marble screen, on which are engraved the words " et alexandro delicatvs vot posvit." The name that preceded the first word was probably that of Eventius. Behind this altar is a kind of apse containing a rude bishop's seat, for we are told that this ch. was served by an Episcopus by the inscription also on the screen round the altar, dedicantf aepis. vrs. (Ursino), and by another, to an Episcopus Diodatus, in the Oratory of S. Theodulus. Opening out of the church on the 1. is a chamber paved in marble, which is called, without any authority, the Oratory of S. Theodulus, near which a door leads into the cata combs or cemetery of S. Alexander, which resemble those we have seen about Rome: the graves, however, have been less disturbed, some with their inscriptions remaining being still closed. One has been opened, and all the objects found in it placed within a grating; on another is an inscription in large letters on the tiles which close it; and on a third, one of those glass cups so frequently seen in the collec tions of early Christian objects. The most important, however, of all the inscriptions in this catacomb marks the grave of a certain Sophia ; another is a singular mixture of Greek and Latin words, but written entirely in Greek letters. These catacombs are of con siderable extent, and as yet have been but partially examined. Returning to the vestibule, which contains the remains of a marble vase found in the vicinity, but without authority called a baptis mal font, and 2 Corinthian columns in granite, we enter on the 1. a second ch. with a semicircular apse, paved with sepulchral inscriptions : this build- ingis supposed to have been destined for catechumens or females. The founda tions of an immense ch. were laid in 1857 by Pius IX,. and considerable progress in its erection made. It will enclose as a crypt the whole of the sub terranean churches, and it was proposed to annex to it a confraternity of Trap- pists, with an Agricultural establish ment under their guidance, an idea which now appears to be abandoned. [To visit the catacombs of S. Alessandro a permission is necessary, which can be obtained without difficuity at the office of the Cardinal Vicar (see p. 351), or from the Secretary of the Propaganda, to which the surrounding estate be longs.] Beyond S. Alessandro we follow the line of the Via Nomentana, portions of the ancient pavement of which are here and there seen for the next 2 m, until we reach the Casale di Capo Bianco. Here the road bifurcates, the branch on the rt. leading to Palombara, the other to Mentana. Following the latter, we pass over for more than J m. an ancient pavement, perhaps the best preserved specimen of a Roman road near the capital, before reaching the farm-buildings of le Case Nuove. From here commence a series of ascents and descents, following the top of the ridge that separates the waters flow ing into the Allia on the 1, and to the Anio in an opposite direction, the road being generally bad. About 1 1 m. from Rome we leave on the 1. the Torre Lupara, one of the finest of the mediaeval defences of this description, consisting of a base of black lava, the centre of red and yellow brick, and the upper portion similar to the base. A short way farther are the ruins of the Casale di Monte Gentile, the pro bable site of Ficulea. Beyond this 2 430 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. ruined tombs mark the direction of the Via Nomentana. [The geologist will here observe that the volcanic rocks dis appear, the hills around being composed of marine tertiary marls (pliocene), abounding in fossil shells ; upon these strata grow the picturesque oak woods, which form such a contrast with the bare Campagna.] From this part of the road the views down the valleys of the Allia and the Fosso di Quarto, towards the Tiber, are very beautiful, whilst those towards the Monte Genaro and the Corniculan hills at its base are extremely grand. The highest part of the road (702 ft.) is attained about J m. before reaching Mentana, to which a well-managed descent leads. Mentana, the ancient Nomentum, one of the oldest of the colonies of Alba in the Sabine territory, and founded by Latinus Sylvius, contemporaneosly with Fidenae, Gabii, and Crustumerium. It is conse quently the only one of these celebrated sites of the Prisci Latini which still continues to be inhabited, owing pro bably to its more healthy and elevated position (700 ft.). Nomentum was a place of some importance during the Roman Empire : its territory was then, as it still is, celebrated for its wines : Ovid, Martial, and Seneca had villas in the neighbourhood : it was the seat of a bishop as early as a.d. 415: during the middle ages we find it designated as Civitas Nomentana. As Mentana, it acquired some celebrity from the meet ing between Pope Leo III. and Charle magne, when the latter came to Rome in a.d. 800 to receive the Imperial Crown ; and in the following cent, as the birthplace of Crescentius, who played an important part in the affairs of Italy in the 10th cent, and who was so barbarously put to death by Otho II. in 996 after his gallant defence of the Castle of S. Angelo against that tyrant. After various vicissitudes Men tana passed by gift of their kinsman Nicholas III. into the hands of the Orsinis, from whom it was purchased for the enormous sum, in those days, of 250,000 scudi by the Perettis: it, as well as its territory, now belongs to the elder branch of the Borghese family. The modern town is a miserable place with 540 Inhab, consisting of one street, the continuation of the high road, and of the baronial castle, sur rounded by an agglomeration of hovels, a sad picture of misery and squalidity. The castle, on the slope of the hill, is founded upon massive substructions towards the valley, which date from the 13th cent. ; the feudal castle itself dates from the 1 5th, and bears the arms of the Perettis ; there is a. good pointed gate in white marble opening into the upper court, with an ancient bas-relief of a horse over it ; and the palace contains a large baronial hall, but has been much neglected. In the street near the ch. are some masses of marble, used as seats by the inhabitants, bearing the names of the families of Herennius and Brutius. The Via Nomentana, heavy after rain for wheeled vehi cles, continues in a northerly direction, passing by the ch. of la Pieta to Grotta Marozza, 3 m, the probable site of the ancient Eretum; from where it con tinued until it joined the Via Salaria, between Correse (Cures) and Nerola. Mentana has acquired some celebrity on account of a victory by the combined Papal foreign troops and their French auxiliaries, in October 1867, over the insurgents under Garibaldi ; the action took place on the S.E. of the village, the centre being occupied by the Vigna San- tucci. A bridle-road leads from Men tana to nearthe Osteria Nuova, 4 m.,from which excursions can be most easily made to Santangelo in Capoccia and Monticelli, the representatives of the ancient Medullia and Corniculum. A fair road of less than 2 m. in dry weather (the soil being astiff clayey marl covered with volcanic tufa) connects Mentana with Monte Rotondo, a town of modern origin, and one of the most important in the province of la Sabina, having a Pop. of 2235 Inhab. The territory around is fertile, planted chiefly in vines, the wine made from which enjoys a high reputation at Rome. From its elevated position its climate is tolerably healthy, and is less exposed to the influence of malaria than Sect. II. VEII. 431 the subjacjpt district along the Tiber. The principal feature of the town is its baronial castle, built on the ruins of one of the mediaeval strongholds of the Orsinis, from whom it passed to the Barberinis : it now belongs, with a considerable part of the surround ing territory, to the Prince of Piom bino. The interior, nearly unfurnished, contains a fine carved ceiling, and some frescoes and decorations of the time of the Barberinis ; its principal attraction, however, is the high tower which rises on it, from which the view over the valley of the Tiber, the N. Campagna, embracing Rome itself, and the whole of the Sabine mountains, encircling the low region occupied by that people, is extensive and magnificent beyond ex ample. There are few points from which the topography of the ancient territory of the Sabines, and of the adjoining parts of Etruria and Latium, can be better surveyed. In the principal church, la Collegiata, there is a picture of the patron, S. Magdalene, attributed to C. Maratta. From Monte Rotondo a good road of 2 m. descends to the Via Salara, at the Railway Stat, 1| m. beyond^which is Fonte di Papa, on the edge of fine meadows extending to the Tiber ; and 1 m. farther the Osteria di Forno Nuovo, on the hill above which is the Casale of Sta. Colomba ; 3 m. beyond this the Casale di Marcigliana stands on an eminence on the 1. ; and 1 m. farther still the bridge of Malpasso over the Allia, close to where that stream enters the Tiber ;* the farm-buildings on the 1. are those of Le Sette Bagni; a slight ascent follows over the low neck of land which joins Castel Giubeleo, the citadel of Fidenae, to the site of the ancient city, rom which a drive of 2 m. over the plain brings us to the Ponte Salaro : the rest of this route being described at p. 437 in this vol. The traveller arriving at Rome by this route from Ancona and Foligno, will have the * Cav. p. Rosa, the best authority on the classical topography of the environs of Rome, supposes that the Allia is represented by the stream called La Scannabecchi, 11 m. from the city, and that the site of the victory of the Gauls was in the plain that extends from below Santa Golomba to La Marcigliana. first view of St. Peter's and of the W. part of the capital on descending into the plain. (See also Handbook for Central Italy, Rte. 98.) The railway from An cona to Rome runs parallel to the Via Salara, until about J m. before reaching the bridge, where it deviates to the 1. to cross the Anio by an iron bridge, and to follow afterwards the 1. bank of that river, to near the Ponte Lomentano. Veii, about 12 m. from Rome, close to the high road to Florence, between the post-stations of La Storta and Baccano. A carriage for 4 persons, to go and return in the same day," may be hired for 25 frs. No beds can be obtained at any place nearer to the ruins than La Storta, so that the traveller'who desires to explore them in detail must take up his quarters there. At Isola a cicerone called Filippo Domesi may be found. He is well acquainted with the localities, and can provide donkeys. To see the Mill, the Ponte Sodo, the gate of the Co lumbarium, and the Painted Tomb will not require more than 2 hrs. The Arx will require another hour. To visit all these, and make the complete circuit of the city, will occupy altogether 4 hrs. The traveller who goes to Veii in a car riage must proceed a short mile from La Storta, just beyond the 10th modern milestone from Rome, where he will find a road on the right leading to Isola Farnese, and to the site of the ancient city. Those who proceed on horseback or on foot will turn off from the high road at the 5th m. near the Tomb of Vibius Marianus, where an ancient road branches off on the rt. hand, which appears, from the vestiges of pavement and foundations of tombs still visible, to be the Via Veientina. One of the latter, near the farm-buildings called Ospedaletto, is remarkable for its size. After crossing the torrent called the Turia, near which are the ruins of another tomb, the road turns to the 1. or N.W, and from this point along the table-land between the valleys of the Turia and of the Valca or Cre- mera. Ascending the valley above the junction of the Cremera with the Fosso de' due Fossi (the 2 streams which 432 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. surround the site of Veii), we see on the height on the 1. the Arco di Pino, an arch in the tufa, by which the road in ancient times is supposed to have descended to the river. The elevated ridge on the side of this valley is sup posed by Sir W. Gell to be that occupied by the Roman camp during the siege. The easiest and most expeditious mode of seeing the different objects about Veii, will be, starting from Isola, descend to the Molino, follow the 1. bank of the torrent as far as Ponte dell' Isola, crossing which, continue along the bank of the Cremera, having the escarpment which supported the walls on the right, and the Necropolis on the other side of the river. Visit the piers of an Etruscan bridge, the Ponte Sodo, and the Porta Spezzeria ; from the latter Campana's painted tomb is about -J m. distant. Tourists having time at their disposal can follow the Cremera in its downward course to its junc tion with the Fosso de' Due Fossi ; but as there is little to see, except the fine scenery, it may be better, after seeing the gate of the Columbarium, inside the Porta Spezeria, and the Roman pavement, to strike across the table-land to the Piazza d'Armi, about If m. off: from the highest part of this path there is a splendid view over the Campagna. From the Piazza d'Armi a walk of less than an hour along the torrent, during which the Arco di Pino can be seen, will bring us back to Isola : the whole of this tour will occupy between 3 and 4 hours. In the interior of the plateau of Veii there is little worth the trouble of a scramble through its brush wood and briers. The discovery of the true site of Veii is one of those interesting results for which we are indebted to the study of Etruscan antiquities, which has made such rapid progress within the last few years. The recent researches among the buried cities of Etruria have done more to elucidate the early history of Italy than the speculations of the anti quaries, or the uncertain records handed down to us by the Romans themselves. As early as the 1 5th century the Italian antiquaries began to discuss the locality of this celebrated city ; and from that period to the beginning of the present century no spot has been more the sub ject of speculation and dispute. Recent discoveries have added Veii to the number of those ancient cities whose existence is proved to be no fable, and have established beyond a doubt that it was situated between the two streams above mentioned, below the rocky citadel of Isola Farnese. Independently of the evidence afforded by the ruins, inscrip tions bearing the names of well-known Etruscan families have been discovered. The most remarkable are those of the Tarquitii celebrated by Virgil, and mentioned by Livy among the families which embraced the cause of Rome during the siege : they gave name to the Libri Tarquitiani used by the aru- spices, and consulted as late as the 4th century by the emperor Julian in his ex pedition against the Persians. Before we proceed to examine the antiquities, we may remind our readers of the de scription of Dionysius, who says, in speaking of the third war in which Romulus was engaged against Veii, that it was the most powerful of the 12 cities of the Etruscan League, distant from Rome 100 stadia, situated on a lofty and insulated rock, and as large as Athens. The distance of 100 stadia is exactly 12^ m. from the capital, cal culating 8 stadia to the Roman mile; the other points of the description will be adverted to hereafter. We shall not dwell on the facts of the early history of Veii : every traveller may be pre sumed to be acquainted with the long wars it sustained against Rome, and with its celebrated siege and capture by Ca- millus, who entered the citadel by means of amine, b.c. 393, after a 10 years' siege. On the fall of the Etruscan city the site was long deserted and apparently forgot ten until the time of Julius Caesar, when an Imperial municipium arose in the centre of it, far within the circuit of the ancient walls. Propertius tells us that the Etruscan area was converted into pastures in his day : — " Nunc intra muros pastoris buccina lenti Cantat, et in vestris ossibus arva metunt." Eleg. 4, 11. In the reign of Hadrian, Floras says, " Who now knows the site of Veii ? Sect. II. VEII. 433 What ruins, what vestiges of it are visible ? *It is difficult to put faith in our annals when they would make us believe in the existence of Veii ;" a remarkable passage, as the Roman mu nicipium was then flourishing within a short distance of the Etruscan walls which we shall presently notice. In the middle ages the situation of the ruins, so near the high road, was not likely to escape the attention of the barons in their system of predatory warfare. Certain ecclesiastical documents inform us that in the beginning of the 10th century a castle existed on the isolated rock which is now considered to have formed the citadel of the ancient city. It derived from its position the name of Isola, being called the Isola di Ponte Veneno, and in more recent times the Isola Farnese. This tower was a posi tion of some strength, as the hostages sent by the emperor Henry V. to pope Paschal II. were placed in it for security. In the 14th century it was held by the Orsinis, and in 1485 was captured by Prospero Colonna. In the contests of Alexander VI. with the Orsinis, Isola was besieged by Caesar Borgia, and cap tured after a 12 days' siege, when the greater portion of the castle was de stroyed. It appears at a later period to have been incorporated with the duchies of Castro and Ronciglione, and to have derived from their possessors the name of Farnese. In the 1 7th centy. it passed to the Government, and was sold in 1820 to the duchess of Chablais, from whom it descended to the queen of Sardinia, and from her to the late empress of Brazil. Although Nardini and Holstenius had both fixed the site of Veii at Isola Farnese, Sir William Gell was the first antiquary who produced a satisfactory plan of the city. He examined and traced the ancient walls throughout the greater part of their circuit; and was convinced that the account of Diony sius, describing the city as being as large as Athens, was not exaggerated. The few fragments of wall thus disco vered, concealed among tufts of brush- wood and by accumulations of soil, are composed of quadrilateral blocks of tufa, some of which, particularly on the northern and eastern sides, are from [Rome.'] 9 to 1 1 feet in length. Sir W. Gell con sidered that the table-land at the east ern extremity of the ancient city, called by the peasants the Piazza d' Armi, was the Etruscan citadel, and that Isola stood outside the walls. Mr. Dennis considers, from the sepulchral caves and niches, " most of them apparently Etruscan, which are hollowed in the rock in every direction, that Isola was nothing more than part of the Necro polis of Veii." Nibby thought that Isola was too commanding and too important an elevation to be allowed to remain without the walls by a people so warlike as the Etruscans, and consequently re garded it as the ancient Arx, on which stood the celebrated Temple of Juno, into which the mine of Camillus pene trated. He considers that the Piazza d' Armi may have been a second Arx, and that the modern name has perhaps pre served a record ofthe fact. In the flanks of Isola are numerous sepulchral cham bers, but no trace of the cuniculus of Camillus has been discovered. The site of Veii, as we have stated above, lies between two streams. The first of these is the Fosso di Formello, the ancient Cremera, well known in the history of the wars of Veii with the Fabii : it rises under the Monte del Sorbo, to the W. of Baccano, and encircles the site of Veii on its N. and E. sides. The second stream rises near Torretta, on the 1. of the Via Cassia, and is tra versed by the modern road near the Osteria del Fosso, 12 m. from Rome: near Veii it precipitates itself in a fine cascade over a rock 80 feet high, and then proceeds along a deep channel, separating Isola from the rest of Veii ; at the south-eastern extremity of Isola it receives two small torrents, called the Storta and the Pino, and is thence called the Fosso de' due Fossi : it joins the Cremera below the Piazza d' Armi. These two streams very clearly define the triangular space occupied by the Etruscan city. We shall now proceed to trace the circuit of the city, and point out the position of the gates which may still be recognised. It is necessary, how ever, to apprise the traveller that the ruins are undergoing such constant U 434 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. changes that no description can hold good even from year to year. Mr. Dennis says, " Every time I visit Veii I am struck with the rapid progress of destruction. Nibby and Gell men tion many remains which are no longer visible. The site has less to show on each succeeding year. Even ma sonry, such as the pier of the bridge over the Fosso di Formello, that from its massiveness might defy the pilfer ing of the peasantry, is torn to pieces, and the blocks removed to form walls or houses elsewhere, so that, ere long, I fear it will be said of Veii, ' her very ruins have perished.' " Begin ning with the road from Isola to Formello, we descend into the valley of the Molino, or Mill, in a very pictu resque situation, where the torrent pre cipitates itself by a handsome cascade over a vertical precipice of volcanic tufa ; there was a gate on the opposite side of the stream here. Proceeding along the rt. bank ofthe river, we soon reach the Ponte dell' Isola, an ancient bridge of a single arch, 22 feet in span : the gate, which opened from it, is supposed to have been the entrance of the road from the Septem Pagi, and has been called from that circumstance the Porta de' Sette Pagi, through which passed the road from Veii to Sutri. Re turning, and following the stream downwards, opposite Isola is a gate which appears to have been formed in the walls which united the town with the citadel on the rock of Isola, and called the Porta dell' Arce. E. of Isola on the plain below the rock, near the junction of the Fosso del Pino with that of Isola, are some mineral springs, and another gate called the Porta' Campana. Beyond, on the S.E, and in the ravine separating the plateau of Veii from its Arx or Piazza d'Armi, are the ruins of a gate in the direction of Fidense, called the Porta Fidenate. Near this a curious postern and a flight of steps of a cemented Etruscan masonry, called " La Scaletta," were discovered in 1840, by Mr. Dennis, but of which not a trace now remains. Descending along the base of the Piazza d'Armi, and afterwards ascending the valley of the Cremera, we may trace the gates in the eastern and northern circuit of the city : the first is the Porta di Pietra Pertusa, in the direction of the Pietra Pertusa, a remarkable cutting by which the road from Veii joined the Fla minian Way. On the road, which is supposed to have opened beyond this gate, is a large tumulus, called La Vaccareccia, with a crest of trees, forming a conspicuous object in the Campagna. It was excavated by the queen of Sardinia ; but nothing was discovered to confirm Gell's suggestion, that it was the tomb of Propertius king of Veii, or of Morrius, the Veientine king who instituted the Salian rites. Higher up the stream is the gate called the Porta Spezieria by Canina: some of the internal fortifications of this gate, forming a kind of piazza, have been preserved, together with the remains of a massive bridge composed of quadrangular blocks of tufa ; two roads led out of it, one to La Pietra Pertusa, the other to Monte Musino, a remarkable conical volcanic hill eastward of Baccano, surrounded by broad artificial terraces, whose sum mit, clothed with fine groves of oaks, and commanding a noble view, is still crowned with the ruins of a circular building supposed to be the Ara Mutiae, the Temple of the Etruscan Venus. Inside the Porta Spezieria are some remains of an Etruscan Columbarium, in the form of pigeonholes irregularly pierced in the vertical walls of the tufa rock ; and higher up a well-preserved f ragmen t.of a Roman road. Between this and the next gate Sir W. Gell describes some fragments of the ancient walls, composed of enormous blocks of tufa, many of which were 10 ft. long and 5 ft. high, but they no longer exist ; the walls rested on a triple course of bricks each about a yard in length, a pecu liarity of construction which has not been observed in any other Etruscan city. The next gate was the Porta Capenate, beneath which is the Ponte Sodo, a bridge excavated, like a tunnel, in the tufa, 240 ft. long, 15 ft. broad, and 20 ft. high, to afford a passage for the river : it is so covered with trees and brushwood that it may easily be Sect. II. 435 passed without notice, although it forms one of the most picturesque objects dur ing the excursion. This gate was pro bably the principal entrance to Veii from the N, and that by which the roads from Capena, Falerii, Nepetum, &c, entered the city. The hills on the N. side of the stream here formed the principal necropolis of the Etruscan city. The tumuli in the neighbourhood of the Ponte Sodo were explored by Lucien Bonaparte, who discovered in them some beautiful gold ornaments. Beyond this is the Porta del Colombario, which derives its name from the ruined Columbarium near it. Some of the polygonal pavement of the road which led from this gate to Formello may still be traced, with its kerb stones and ruts worn by ancient chariot-wheels ; remains of the pier of the bridge are also visible in the bed of the Formello. Farther on are some fragments of the city walls, resting on bricks like the portion already de scribed. The last gate is the Porta Sutrina, a short distance from the Ponte di Formello, a bridge of Roman brick work built upon Etruscan piers. The ancient road which entered Veii by the gate of Fidenae passed put of it here, after traversing the whole length of the city, and fell into the Via Cassia near the 1 2th milestone on the modern road from Rome. The gate faces Sutri, and is supposed to have led to it. This brings us back to the Ponte dell' Isola, from which we commenced our survey. The circuit of the walls we have now described is supposed to be about 6 m. In the plain on the N. side, which they enclose, are several traces of a Roman road and some vestiges of tombs and a columbarium marking the site of the Roman muni cipium, founded by the emperors on the site of the Etruscan city. It was about 2 miles in circumference. The columbarium is now the only repre sentative of the Roman settlement: it was found entire, and the interior was ornamented with stucco and paint ings, but all of these are now destroyed, and the 3 chambers of which the build ing was composed are in a state of ruin. Near it were found the 2 colossal heads of Tiberius and Augustus, the sitting co lossal statue of Tiberius preserved in the Vatican Museum, a mutilated statue of Germanicus, and some other interesting fragments of the imperial period. On the other side of the valley of the Formello, half-way up the slope of the mound called the Poggio Reale, is the very interesting Painted Tomb, disco vered by Marchese Campana in the winter of 1842, the key of which is kept at Isola by the farmer, who will en deavour to exact a dollar for lending it, an imposition that ought to be re sisted, the tomb being the property ofthe government. It is the only tomb which is now open at Veii, and, as it is one of the most ancient which has yet been discovered in any Etruscan city, it will not fail to interest the traveller and anti quary, to whom the discoverer has rendered an important service, by leav ing it with its furniture in the exact condition in which it was when opened . The passage cut in the tufa rock leading to the tomb was guarded by 2 crouch ing lions, and the entrance itself is still similarly guarded. On either side of this passage are traces of two small chambers, which probably served as places of sepulture for dependents. The sepulchral vault consists of two low, gloomy chambers excavated in the volcanic rock, with a door formed of converging blocks of the earliest polygonal construction, and best seen from the inside. The walls of the outer one are covered with grotesque paintings of men, boys, horses, leopards, cats, winged sphinxes, and dogs, remark able for their rude execution, strange colouring, and disproportionate forms. These paintings are of the highest an tiquity, and are remarkadle as being much ruder and less Egyptian in their character than those discovered in the painted tombs of Tarquinii and other Etruscan sites. On either side of the tomb is a bench of rock, on each of which, when it was opened, lay a skele ton, but exposure to the air soon caused both to crumble into dust. One of these had been a warrior, and on the rt.-hand bench are still preserved por tions ofthe breastplate, the spear-head, and the helmet, perforated by the wea- U 2 436 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ROME. Rome. pon which probably deprived the war rior of life. The other skeleton, from the absence of armour, is supposed to have been that of a female. Micali remarks that the style and decorations of this tomb show no imitation of the Egyptian, and that " all is genuinely national, and characteristic of the pri mitive Etruscan school." The large earthen jars, which were found to con tain human ashes, are in the earliest style of Etruscan art. The iuner or smaller chamber has two beams carved relief on the ceiling, with a low ledge cut in the rock round 3 of its sides on which stand square cinerary urns or chests, that contained human ashes, with several jars and vases. In the cen tre is a low bronze brazier about 2 ft. in diameter, which probably served for burning perfumes. On the wall op posite the doorway are painted 6 small many-coloured discs or paterae, the exact nature of which has been the subject of hitherto inconclusive discus sion. Above them are many stumps of nails in the walls, which have rusted away with all trace of the articles which were suspended from them. It is a pecu liarity of this sepulchre that, unlike many other Etruscan tombs, it has no epitaph or inscription, on sarcophagus, urn. cippus, or tile, to record the name of the persons who were interred in it. The antiquarian traveller will find a detailed descriptionof Veii, accompanied by numerous plans, maps and views, in in Canina's ' l'Antica Citta di Veii,' printed at Rome in 1847, at the ex pense of the queen dowager of Sar dinia ; in his great work on the Etruria Maritima; and in the first vol. of Mr. Dennis's work on the ' Cities and Ce meteries of Etruria.' The modern hamlet of Isola is in a state of decay. The buildings are chiefly of the 15th century; the appear ance of the population, which seldom exceeds 100 souls, bears sufficient evi dence of the prevalence of malaria. The church, dedicated to the Virgin and to St. Pancrazio was built in the 1 5th cent, after the siege by Cajsar Borgia; it con tains a fresco ofthe Coronation of the Virgin, a work probably of that period The tourist, instead of returning to Rome by the same road, can descend the valley ofthe Cremera to where it empties itself into the Tiber, about 6 m, between the 6th and 7th m. on the Via Flaminia ; the valley is picturesque, but the trip must be performed on foot or horseback : passing by the Casale di S. Giovanni on the 1, where there are some Roman remains, and afterwards the Casale della Valchetta, on the opposite side of the river, one ofthe supposed sites ofthe de feat of the Fabii ; or by another, but more circuitous, path by the tumulus of the Vaccareccia, and la Pietra Pertusa, to the Via Flaminia beyond the Osteria of Prima Porta, which is about 8 m. from Rome, near the Roman station of Saxa Rubra. Here he can examine the ruins of the Villa Veientina of Livia, afterwards the Villa Caesarum ad Gal- linas Albas, in a lovely situation on the height above the osteria, where some interesting excavations were made in 1863, which led to the discovery of a fine statue of Augustus, now in the Vatican, and of some curious mural paintings of plants and birds that de corated one of the apartments of this favourite villegiatura of the Roman empress. The drive from P. Porta is an agreeable one to Rome, the road crossing the opening iuto the plain of the Tiber, ofthe valleys of the Cremera or la Valchetta, of the Crescenza, and of the Aqua Traversa, and passing J m. before reaching the latter the Sepulchre ofthe Nasos, described at p. 75. In the ravines around Veii the geo logist will find matter for observation ; in the vicinity of Isola, the principal rock is a volcanic conglomerate, con taining huge fragments of black pumice reposing on strata of ashes deposited underwater, whereas the black pumice breccia is amongst the most recent of the subaerial deposits of the Campagna, contemporaneous with the lava-cur rents of Sette Vene, Capo di Bove, &c. &c. FIDEN.E and Antemnj;. The traveller who desires to visit the sites of these ancient cities from Rome will have the choice of two roads : the one which follows the line of the Via Salara runs direct from the Porta Salara; the other quits Rome by the Sect. II. FIDEN.E AND ANTEMNiE. 437 Porta del Popolo, and, leaving the road to Florence at the Casino di Papa Giulio, takes that on the rt. to the Acqua- cetosa, from which a path across the meadows, of less than a mile, leads to the foot of the hill, the site of ancient Antemuae, the "Turrigirae Antemnae" of the iEneid, one of the 3 cities whose daughters became the mothers of the Roman race. " It seems that the high point nearest the road was the citadel of Antem nae ; and the descent of 2 roads now scarcely perceptible, one towards Fide nae and the bridge, and the other to wards Rome, marks the site of a gate. On the other side of the knoll of the citadel is a cave, with signs of artificial cutting in the rock, being a sepulchre under the walls. There was evidently a gate also in the hollow which runs from the platform of the city to the junction of the Aniene and the Tiber, where there is now a little islet. Pro bably there was another gate towards the meadows, on the side of the Acqua- cetosa, and another opposite : and from these 2 gates, which the nature of the soil points out, one road must have run up a valley tending in the direc tion of the original Palatium of Rome ; and the other must have passed by a ferry towards Veii, up the valley near the present Tor di Quinto. It is not uninteresting to observe how a city, destroyed at a period previous to what is now called that of authentic history, should, without even one stone remain ing, preserve indications of its former existence. From the height of An temnae is a fine view of the field of battle between the Romans and the Fidenates, whence Tullus Hostilius despatched M. Horatius to destroy the city of Alba Longa. The isthmus where the 2 roads from Palatium and Veii met unites with the city a higher eminence, which may have beenanother citadel. The beauty of the situation is such that it is impossible it should not have been selected as the site of a villa in the flourishing times of Rome." — Gell. A steep descent by the modern road, which passes near the E. side of the hill of Antemnae, brings us to the Ponte Salaro, a bridge of 3 arches crossing the Anio, the piers of which, built of square blocks of red tufa, may be of the oldest Roman period, subsequently cased with travertine in the 6th centy. by Narses, who rebuilt it. The Ponte Salaro was partially destroyed during the military operations before Rome in 1849, when all the bridges or their ap proaches on this side of the city were blown up to prevent the advances of the French besieging army, and more ruinously in Oct. 1867, by the Pope's troops, in dread of the Gari- baldiau inroad. Beyond the Ponte Salaro we pass the ruins of a Roman sepulchre on the 1, from which the road for the next 2 m. runs across the plain of Prato Rotondo, having the Tiber at a short distance on the 1, and the low range of hills that extend from the rt. bank of the Anio to Fidenae. It was in this plain, rich in meadows and pas turage, that many bloody encounters took place between the Romans and Etruscans during the kingly period, and especially the memorable one with the Fidenates and Veientes, which, in consequence of the treachery of Mettus Fuffetius, the leader of the auxiliaries from Alba Longa, led to the destruction of that town by Tullus Hostilius. It is also in this plain that antiquaries place Hannibal's en campment before Rome after his re treat from Capua. 2 m. beyond the bridge the road runs along the base of the hill on which are situated the Casale of La Serpentara, and, farther on, the Villa Spada, where some topographers place the Villa of Phaon, where Nero put an end to his existence. It is more likely, however, that it was about half way between the Via Salara and Via Nomentana, the whole of which space was occupied by the grounds of that freedman of the em ¦ peror. From the Villa Spada a gradual ascent of about a mile brings us to the highest point of the road, passing over a depression on the hill that sepa rates the table-land on the rt, upon which the city of Fidenae is supposed to have stood, from that of its Arx or Citadel, which is now marked by the farm-buildings of Castel Giubeleo, on a precipitate elevation, overlooking 438 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OP ROME. Rome. from about half a mile the Tiber. No ruins are visible, either on the site of the ancient city or of its citadel, if we except the artificial excavations on the face of the cliffs, some of which were evidently made for sepul chral purposes ; indeed, it was scarcely possible that any should remain, Fi- denae having been destroyed more than four centuries before our era. The modern buildings of Castel Giubeleo date from the time of Boniface VIII. ; the farms around belonging to the Chapter of St. Peter's. " Making the circuit of Castel Giu beleo, you are led round till you meet the road, where it issues from the hollow at the northern angle of the city. Besides the tombs which are found on both sides of the southern promontory of the city, there is a cave, running far into the rock, and branch ing off into several chambers and passages. Fidenae, like Veii, is said to have been taken by a mine ; and this cave might be supposed to indi cate the spot, being subsequently en larged into its present form, had not Livy stated that the cuniculus was on the opposite side of Fidenae, where the cliffs were loftiest, and that it was carried into the Arx. The chief necro polis of Fidenas was probably on the heights to the N.E, called Poggio de' Sette Bagni, where are a number of caves ; and here, also, are traces of quarries, probably those of the soft rock for which FidenaB was famed in ancient times. The walls of Fidenas have utterly disappeared ; not one stone remains on another, and the broken pottery and the tombs around are the sole evidences of its existence. Yet, as Nibby observes, ' few ancient cities, of which few or no vestiges re main, have had the good fortune to have their sites so well determined as Fidenae.' Its distance of 40 stadia, or 5 m, from Rome, mentioned by Diony sius, and its position relative to Veii to the Tiber, and to the confluence of the Anio with that stream, as set forth by Livy, leave not a doubt of its true site." — Dennis* * Sig. Rosa places the Arx of Fideme at the E. extremity of the plateau, on the rt. of the An excursion, including Antemnae, Fidenae, and Veii, may be made in the same day, by a good walker, and leaving Rome at an early hour. Passing through the .Porta Salara, An temnae can be reached in less than an hour ; a couple of hours will suffiee to examine Castel Giubeleo and the site of Fidenae; after which, crossing the Tiber in a boat, which may be some times met with below Castel Giubeleo, a path of about 5 m. will bring him from the Casale delle due Case, where the valley of the Cremera opens into the plain, and near to where that stream empties itself into the Tiber, along the 1. bank of the Cremera to Veii, passing by on the 1. and upon a projecting pro montory the Casale della Valchetta, and on the rt. that of S. Giovanni where there are some Roman ruins, and which may be the spot that wit nessed the defeat of the 300 Fabii. Or, instead of returning by Veii, a very agreeable excursion may be made up the valley of the Sette Bagni, which opens on the rt. half a mile beyond Castel Giubeleo, passing by Redi- ciolli, Bufalotta, and the Casale di Bella Donna : from the latter a good road of 4 m, by Le Vigne Nuove, and the Mons Sacer, celebrated in Roman his tory for the retreat of the Plebeians in A.u.c. 260, will bring the tourist to the Ponte Lomentano, and from thence in 1 hr. to Rome by the Porta Pia. Prima Porta, by the Via Flaminia, the Villa of Livia, and to Fiano, bt the Via Tiberina. This will be one of the easiest made excursions from Rome, and a very agreeable drive, the road being excel lent. The country through which it passes has been described in the Hand book for Central Italy (Rte. 98). On leaving the city by the Porta del Popolo, we follow a long suburb, and between high walls, for nearly 2 m, road; a position more in accordance with the distance from Rome than Castel Giubeleo. Sect. II. PRIMA PORTA TO PIANO. 439 as far as the Ponte Molle. Of the villas that line the road, the only one that merits notice is the Villa Massani, belonging to Prince Bandini. J m. from the gate a road on the rt. leads to the Villa of Papa Giulio, built by Vignola, and from there to the Acquacetosa; and immediately before reaching the Tiber, a path prac ticable for carriages on the rt. strikes off to the same mineral spring (p. 437), at the base of the Monte Paroli. The Ponte Molle, which crosses the Tiber 2 m. from the city, was first erected (b.c 108) by the Censor Mar cus iEmilius Scaurus, and is memorable in history. It was on it that the en voys of the Allobroges, implicated in the Catiline conspiracy, were arrested by order of Cicero (b.c. 63), and it was from its parapets that the body of Maxentius was hurled into the river, with his spoils,* after his defeat by Constantine 5 m. higher up on the Via Flaminia. The present bridge was nearly rebuilt by Pius VII. ; its foun dations, however, are ancient. A tower formerly stood at its N. extremity to defend the passage, which has been converted into a kind of triumphal arch. At each end of the parapets are colossal statues of the Virgin and St. John Nepomueene, of the Saviour and St. John the Evangelist, by Mocchi. In recent times the Ponte Molle has been the scene of military operations, —the last on the 14th May, 1849, when the French invading army under General Oudinot, attempted to carry it, but failed, the insurgents who held Rome having blown up its northern arch. After crossing the Tiber, the mili tary exercising ground is on the 1, the modern Campus Martius of Rome, and on the rt. the line of the ancient Via Flaminia, marked by a ruined sepul chre, — it ran close to the rt. bank of the river ; and farther on the Osteria del Ponte, where the high road to * The story of the 7-branched candelabrum having been thrown into the Tiber after the defeat of Maxentius is a mere legend, founded on no written authority ; indeed Procopius states positively that the treasures from the Temple of Jerusalem were carried from Rome to Car thage by Genseric in A.n. 455. Florence and Ancona (the Via Cassia), and the modern one to Rignano (the Via Flaminia Nova), separate. Fol lowing the latter over a gentle rising ground for 1^ m., we pass on the rt. the mediaeval Tor di Quinto, which derives its name from being near the 5th m, reckoning from the Capitol; and a short way beyond we cross the openings into the plain cf the Tiber, of the valleys of the Aequa Traversa or Crescenza and Inviolatella, up which there are good rides to the Via Cassia and Veii (p. 483). Soon after the plain is bordered on the W. by a ridge of hills, with precipitate escarpments, composed of volcanic con glomerate, which extends all the rest of our way to Prima Porta. Between the 5th and 6th m, an artificial cavern may be seen at the base of the cliff, which once served as a sepulchre, in which were found numerous inscrip tions relative to the Nasos, the family of Ovid (see p. 75). All traces of the paintings upon its walls which existed in the 17th centy. have disappeared, and the inscriptions have been dis persed. The excavation, which has a good deal of the Etruscan character, offers now little interest. From here on the rt. of the road extends a meadow plain to the Tiber, in which are seve ral ruined sepulchres that mark the line of the Via Flammia. It was on this flat that took place the battLe be tween Constantine and Maxentius (a.d. 312), already referred to, which ended in the defeat of the latter, and his flight towards Rome, a victory so important in the history of Christianity. Before reaching Prima Porta the road crosses the Cremera torrent, descending from Veii, and soon after that of Prima Porta from Scrofano. Here the Via Tiberina to Procojo and Fiano branches off on the rt, and a slight ascent brings us to Prima Porta, the stat. of ad Saxa Rubra, on the Via Flaminia, names derived from its being situated in a defile through the hills that enclose the valley of the Tiber on this side. and from the red volcanic tufa of which they are formed. In ancient times it was the first halting-place out 440 EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIKONS Of ROME. Rome. of Rome, and 9 m. distant from the Milliarium Aureum at the foot of the Capitol. On the heights above the Osteria on the rt. stood the Villa Veientina of Livia, in later times known as the Villa Cassarum ad Gal- linas Albas, having descended to the successors of Augustus. Although no doubt could exist as to the site of an edifice so often mentioned by ancient authors, it is extraordinary that ex cavations on it were not attempted until 1863, when amongst the first discoveries was the fine statue of Au gustus, now in the Museum of the Vati can (p. 2 1 1 ). Subsequent researches led to the opening of a suite of chambers, richly decorated, which probably formed the lower floor of the imperial villa, one of which was covered with paintings in excellent preservation, representing a garden, in which the plants, flowers, and birds are designed with great accuracy. Amongst the latter a number of white pigeons * of the same race as seen living at the pre sent day about Rome. The history of this villa, and espe cially of the circumstance from which it derived its name, ad Gallinas Albas, is curious. Founded by Livia on one of her paternal estates, it was at first designated as her Villa Veientina, from being in the territory of Veii. At a later period it was called the Villa Ceesarum ad Gallinas Albas, from a legend recorded by Dion Cassius, Suetonius, t Pliny ,J &c, that an eagle flying over it let fall a white fowl * Not fowls, as stated by an official authority, the Commissarlo Pontificio of Antiquities, who, in a notice of this villa, has pretended they re- presented the white birds from which it derived its name. Nor are the plants exotic or tropical, as stated by a recent traveller (Weld, ' Last "Winter at Rome,' 1865), whose description of the whole edifice is inaccurate. These interesting paintings have, by sheer neglect, been allowed nearly to perish, and are now scarcely visible. f " Livia? olim, post August! statim nuptias, Veientanum suum revlsens pretervolans Aquila gallinam albam ramulum lauri rostro tenentem, ita ut rapuerat demisit in gremium . . . tanta pullorum soboles provenit ut hodie quoque ea villa ad Gallinas vocatur." — Sueton. in Vit. Galbaj. t In villa Csesarum fiuvio Tiberi lmposita, Juxta nonam lapidem Klaminia Via, qua ob id (the same fact as mentioned by Suetonius) voca tur ad Galliims.— Lib. xv., 40. (gallina alba), which, lighting on the lap of Livia, holding a laurel-branch in its beak, was the progenitrix of the race of birds for which it became so celebrated, as the laurel-berries did of the plantations from which the im perial triumphators were crowned. In speaking of the death of Nero, Sue tonius states that, on the approaching extinction of the descendants of the Ju lian line, the white fowls began to pine away, and the laurels to wither, the race of both disappearing with the last of the imperial line of the descendants of Augustus. The villa occupied the table-land above the Osteria of Prima Porta, which is of inconsiderable ex tent, but in a lovely position, command ing a magnificent panorama up and down the valley of the Tiber, over a great extent ofthe territories of Veii and Fidenae, with the Sabina and its lofty Apennines beyond, and of the Alban and Volscian mountains to the south. From Prima Porta the Via Tiberina runs parallel to the river, but along the base of the hills, at some distance from the Tiber, as far as Fiano, a poor village which gives a ducal title to the head of the Papal family of Ottobuoni. Before reaching Fiano, the tourist in terested in agricultural pursuits can visit some of the large breeding-farms for horses and horned cattle — on the 1. the two Procojos, the property of Prince Chigi ; and Riano, belonging to Prince di Piombino, once celebrated for its pure Roman breed of horses. Fiano, which occupies the site of the ancient Flavinia, has a large dilapi dated mansion belonging to its feudal lord. From Fiano there is a bridle- road which follows the rt. bank of the Tiber as far as Ponte Felice, passing by Nazzano and Ponzano, at the E. base of Soracte. Bracciano and its Lake. 26 m. from Rome. A very agreeable excursion may be made to Bracciano and its neighbourhood. Although less often visited than many other places in the environs ofthe capital, it will well repay the journey; with post-horses Bracciano, including Vicarello, may be visited in the same day. A public Sect. II. BRACCIANO AND ITS LAKE. 41 conveyance* leaves the Osteria del Sole, near the ch. of S. Andrea della Valle, daily, performing the journey in 5 hrs. There is a very tidy inn at Bracciano, the Osteria Piva, kept by an obliging landlady, where the not over-fastidious tourist will find fair quarters, and where the artist may spend economically several days in the midst of scenery of a very picturesque character. Leaving Rome, we follow the high road to Florence as far as La Storta, a short distance beyond which we turn off to the 1. to fol low the Via Claudia, which led from the Via Cassia to Cosa. After leav ing La Storta, the road, which con tinues good, passes for the next 5 m. through an uninteresting country consisting of large pasturage farms. At the 14th m. from Rome the Aqua- sona stream, descending from the hills of Cesano, is crossed, and a mile far ther on we reach the Osteria Nuova, very nearly on the site of Careiac, a Roman station of the Antonine Itine rary. Near here a road branches off on the 1. to the large dairy-farms of Santa Maria in Celsano and Casal di Galera. Soon after passing the Osteria Nuova, the Arrone, the outlet of the lake of Bracciano, is crossed, near to where it falls by a cascade over a lava cur rent, into the picturesque valley below. From this place a path of about a mile leads to the deserted village of Galera, and which will be well worth a visit. The ravine through which the Arrone runs is beautiful, enclosed between precipices of tufa and basaltic lava, on one of which is perched the mediaeval town. Although it is very probable that there was an Etruscan or Roman town there, no traces of ancient remains have hitherto been discovered. The modern Galera has existed from the 11th centy, and its counts in the 12th and 13th exercised considerable influence in this part of La Campagna as lords of the district situated between the lake of Bracciano, the range of hills of Baccano, and the Via Claudia. In 1226 Galera became possessed by the Orsini family, who held it until 1670 ; it now belongs, with a part of the neighbour ing valley, to the College of the Hun garian Jesuits at Rome. The town has for half a century been abandoned, owing to the increase of malaria, and presents a strange aspect of deso lation in its unroofed and abandoned churches and houses so lately inhabited, overgrown with a rank vegetation and tenanted only by reptiles. The rock on which it stands is a fine mass of black lava, rising through the volcanic tufa, surrounded on 3 of its nearly vertical sides by the deep ravine at the bottom of which runs the Arrone. The town is entered by a double gate towards the N, over which are the Orsini arms ; many of the houses and 2 steeples of churches are still erect, forming pic turesque objects of abandonment and desolation. The older walls ofthe 11th centy. may be seen at the N.W. angle of the town : on these rises the castle of the Orsinis, a fine brick edifice. The position is exceedingly romantic, and its complete solitude is one of the most impressive examples of the influence of malaria which it is pos sible to conceive. The valley of the Arrone, which extends from Galera to below Castel di Guido, on the road from Rome to Civita Vecchia, is ex tremely picturesque in its upper por tion : watered by the perennial stream flowing from the lake of Bracciano, it is fertile, and contains numerous large meadows and pasturage-farms, upon which great numbers of horses and cattle are reared, and a large quantity of butter produced for the Roman mar ket. The bottom of the valley consists of rich meadows, the hills on the sides of grazing land, over which rise woods of ilex, the cork, and ordinary oaks. The farms of Santa Maria in Celsano and of Casal di Galera, belonging to the Marchese di Rocca Giovane, and lower down of Testa di Lepre, the pro perty of Prince Doria, would well repay a visit for those who take an interest in the agriculture of the Roman Cam pagna ; but in this beautiful valley malaria is the great evil, few of its in habitants being able to remain beyond the end of June. Beyond the Arrone a carriage-road branches off on the rt. to Anguil- lara, by which Trevignano may also be u 3 442 Excursions in the Environs of rome; tome. reached. The plain of the Arrone ex tends in this direction to where the river issues from the lake, and is more fertile than the surrounding Campagna. About 3 m. before reaching Bracciano we enter on a portion of the Roman pavement of the Via Claudia, well preserved for more than a mile ; soon afterwards the town and its castle Come into view, and from no point, perhaps, is the latter » seen to greater advantage. A flat marshy tract, called Lago Morto, from the small pestilential pool that sometimes exists in it, is passed on the 1. From here the lake is first seen, with the village of Trevignano on its opposite shore, backed by the conical peak of Rocca Romana. About a mile before reaching Bracciano the road turns to the rt, the Via Claudia continuing in a straight line by the convent of the Cappuccini S. of the town. Bracciano (Inn : Albergo Piva) con tains a pop. of about 2000 Inhab. From its elevation and distance of nearly a mile from the lake, its climate is less unhealthy than most places around ; it enjoys a certain degree of prosperity from its iron-works, where bars are manufactured from cast iron brought chiefly from Tuscany, fuel being abun dant from the wooded country in the vicinity, as well as good water-power from the surrounding hills for the mills. At the N. extremity of the hill of Bracciano, and overlooking the lake, is the baronial castle, built in the 15th century by the Orsinis ; it is con sidered one of the good, although not very ancient specimens of the feudal castles of Italy, and presents a noble and imposing aspect. Its ground plan is . Apollinare, S., church of, 146. Apollinaris, circus, 56. Apollo, temple of, at Rome, 34. Belvedere, the, 218. Apostoli, SS., church of the, 146. Apothecaries in Rome, xxi. Aquacetosa, mineral spring, 443 AUGUSTUS. Aqua Crabra, 7, 55. Ferentina, 398. Aquaa Albulae, 374. Aureliaa, 443. Cffiretanse, 463. Aquasona, stream, 441. Aqueducts, ancient : — Anio Novus, 83. A. Vetus, 81. Aqua Appia, 8r. A. Alsietina, 83. A. Claudia, 83. A. Julia, 82. A. Marcia, 81. A. Tepula, 82. A. Virgo, 82. Aqueducts, modern : — A. Felice, 83. A. Paola, 83. A. Vergine, 82. Ara Cceli, church of Sta. Maria di, 170. Arches of — Constantine, 58. Dolabella and Silanus, 59. Drusus, 60. Fabius, site of, 24, Gallienus, 60. Janus Quadrifrons, 60. Sept. Severus in the Foro Romano, 60 ; in the Vela brum, 61. Tiberius, site of, 24. Titus, 25, 61. Archaeological Institute of Rome, 315. Arco de' Pantani, 41. Ardea, 456. Ariccia, 410. Armilustrum, position of the, 143. Armoury, pontifical, 254. Arrone, river, 441. Arsoli, village, 385. Artists' studios at Rome, xliii. Aruns, his tomb, 410. Asinaria, Porta, 7. Asso, Castel d', tombs, 478. Astura, village and stream, 459. Augustus's forum, 26 ; mauso leum, 67. Rome. 489 AUREA. CANINA. CAVALLEGG1ER1. Aurea, S^ church of, at Ostia, Bibiana, S., church of, 148. Canino, village of, 476. 450. Bibulus, tomb of, 69. Cantalupo, village of, 384. Aurelia, Porta, 9. Bieda, 482. Canterano, village, 385. Aurelian column, 56. Bishops of Rome, list of, 1. Capena, Porta, 8. Aventine hill, the, 13. Blandusia, fountain of, 388. Capitol : view from the tower, Boacciano, Torre, 452. 11 ; piazza, 255 ; palace of Boarium, Forum, 27. the Senator, 255 ; of the Con B. Bocca della Verita, 37. servators, 257 ; Protomoteca, Bonaparte palace, 287 ; villa, 257 ; halls of the Conserva Bacchus, temple of, 36, 339- tors, 259 ; gallery of pictures, Balbina, S., church of, 147. Books on Rome, xxxviii. 262 ; museum, 263-271 ; sub Balbus, theatre of, 49. Booksellers at Rome, xxi. structions, 23. Banditaccia, the Necropolis of Borghese palace, 284. Capitoline hill, the, 13. Cervetri, 463. villa, 339. Capocotta, site of Laurentum, Bankers at Rome, xxviii. chapel in S. M. Maggiore, 4*4- Baptistery of Constantine, 126. 131. Cappellette, le, 415. Barberini palace, gallery, and Borgia, Gabinetto,Vatican, 250. Cappuccini, church of, at Rome, library, 282. Borgo, Rione, 4. 148 ; at Frascati, 392. at Palestrina, 418. Botanic garden, 309. Caprino, Monte, 13. Barcaccia fountain, 96. Bovillae, its ruins, 407. Caracalla, his baths, 62. Bartolommeo, S., church of, Bracciano, lake (Lacus Sabati- CareiEe, site of, 441. 147. nus), town, and feudal castle Carlo, S., a Catiiiari, church of, , island, 5. of, 440. 149. , Ponte di S., 10. Braschi palace, 287 ; villa, 382. '-, in the Corso, church of, Basilicas, ancient and Pagan :— Bridges, ancient, of Rome, 9. *49- JEmilia, 24. Bridges, modern. See Ponte. Carnival at Rome, xxxi. Constantine, 25, 3$. British Archaeo logical Society, Carriages at Rome for hire, Julia, 24. 316. xvii. Portia, 24. Bronzes, dealers in, xxviii. Carsoli, 385. TJlpia, 26. Buildings of the middle ages, Carvings, wood and ivory, Basilicas, Christian, their cha 94. xxviii. racteristics, 99. Bunsen's Researches on Rome, Casal dei Pazzi, 428. Basilicas, modern and Chris xl. Casanatense, Biblioteca, 175. tian, of — Burial-ground, Protestant, 321. Cascatelle at Tivoli, 381. S. Agnese, 139. Caserta palace, 288. Sta. Croce in Gerusalemme, Cassius, villa of, at Tivoli, 382. 160. C. Castel Arcione, 373. St. John Lateran, 122. d'Asso, 478. S. Lorenzo, 135. Caecilia Metella, her tomb, 69. Fusano, 453. S. Maria Maggiore, 128. Caelian hill, 13. Gandolfo, 403. S. Paolo fuori le Mura, 132. Caere, 460. Giubeleo, 431, 437. the Vatican(St. Peters), 100. Caesar, Julius, site of his temple ¦ Madama, village, 383. S. Sebastiano, 197. and rostra, 25 ; his forum, 27 ; Castello, Porta, 9. St. Stephen, ruins of, 406. villa at Nemi, 4x4. Castiglione, site of Gabii, 42?. Baths, or Thermse : — Caesars, palace of the, 27. Castor and Pollux, equestrian of Agrippa, 62. Cafes of Rome, xiii. group called, 93. Caracalla, 62. Caius Cestius, pyramid of, 71. Castrense, Amphitheatrum, 54. Constantine, 64. Calepodius, cemetery and cata Castrimcenium, now Marino, Diocletian, 64. combs of, 187. 397- Livia (so-called), 32. Calisto, S., convent, 182. Castro, 479, Nero and Alex. Severus, 65. , catacombs of, 356. Catacombs : — Titus, 65. Camaldoli, monastery, 395. in general, 347. Trajan, 66. Campagna, the, 11. S. Agnese, 139, 3%i. Baths, modem ;— Campanili of Rome, description of St. Alexander, 428. Delia Regina (at the Solfa- of, 129. Calepodius, 187. tara), 374. Campitelli, Rione, 4, Callixtus, 355- Stigliano, 444. Campo di Annibale, on Monte S. Ciriaca, 138. Vicarello, 443. Cavo, 401. Jewish, 359. Baths in Rome, xxix. Jemini, 456. SS. Nereo ed Achilleo, 360. Belle Donne, Casale delle, 428. Marzo, Rione, 2. S. Pretextatus, 358. Belvedere, Cortile di, Vatican, Vaccino, the Roman Santi Quattro, 407. 216. Forum, 21. S. Sebastian, 197. Benedict, St., monastery, at Campus Martius, 1. Caterina, S., dei ii'unari, church Subiaco, 385. ¦ Sceleratus, 88. of, 149. Benfratelli, hospital of, 318. Cancelleria, 287. , di Siena, church of, 149. Bernardo, S., church of, 148. Canina's works on Rome, Cavaliere, 385. Berti palace, 284. xxxix, xli, 367. Cavalleggieri, Porta, 9, 490 INDEX. Rome. CAVALLO. CHURCHES. Cavallo, Monte (Quirinal), at Churches in Rome of— Rome, 13. S. Francesca Romana, 161. Cavanelle, la, 431. S. Francesco a Ripa, 162. Cave, village of, 421 ; Rocca di, Gesu, 162. 421. S. Giorgio in Velabro, 162. Cavo, Monte, or Mons Lazialis, S. Giovanni Batista, 163. 401. de' Fiorentini, 163. Cecchina, la, stat., 406. inFonte, 126. Cecilia, S., church of, 150. in Laterano, 122. Celebrities, Roman, list of, xlxix. in Oleo, 164. Cenci palace, 288. e Paolo, 163. Ceremonies, chronological list a Porta Latina, 164. of, liv. S. Giuseppe de' Falegnami, Ceremonies in St. Peter's, 117 ; 164. in the Lateran, 125 ; in S. M, S. Gregorio, 164. Maggiore, 132. S. Ignazio, 165. Ceres and Proserpine, temple S. Isidoro, 165. of, 31. S. Lorenzo, 135. Ceri Nuovo, village, 467. e Damaso, 166. Cervara, village, 385, 427. in Luciua, 166. Cervaro, 427. in Miranda, 166. Cervetri, ancient city, 461. in Panis- Perna, 166. Cesareo, S., church of, 151. S. Luigi dei Francesi, 167. Cesarini palace at Genzano, 414. S. Marcello, 167. at Rome, 289. S. Marco, 168. Charities of Rome, 316. S. Maria Maggiore, 128. Chemists at Rome, xxi. degli Angeli, 168. Chigi palace, 289. dell' Anima, 169. Chiusi, 482. In Aquiro, 170. Chronological tables, xlviii. di Aracoeli, 170. Church, English, xxx. Aventinense, 172. Churches of Rome, 138-202. in Campitelli, 173. Churches in Rome of — della Concezione, 148. S. Agata de' Goti, 139. in Cosmedin, 173. S. Agnese, 139. fuori le Mura, 140. Egiziaca, 38. di Loreto, 174. S. Agostino, 142. adMartyres(Pantheon), S. Alessandro, 428. 42. S. Alessio, 143. sopra Minerva, 174. S. Anastasia, 143. ¦ di Monte Santo, 177. S. Andrea delle Fratte, 143. in Monte, 177. al Quirinale, 144. dei Miracoli, 177. dei Scozzesi, 145. della Navicella, 177. delle Valle, 144. dell' Orto, 178. S. Angelo in Pescheria, 145. della Pace, 178. S. Antonio Abate, 145. del Popolo, 179, de' Portoguesi, 146. ¦ in Portico, 173. S. Apollinare, 146. Scala Coeli, 187. SS. Apostoli, 146. _ del Sole, 46. Aracoeli, 170. in Trastevere, 181. S. Balbina, 147. a Trevi, 182. S. Bartolommeo, 147. in Vallicella, 183. S. Bernardo, 148. in Via Lata, 183. S. Bibiana, 148. della Vittoria, 184. Cappuccini, 148. S. Martina, 184. S. Carlo a Catinari, 149. S. Martino ai Monti, 184.- in Corso, 149. SS. Nereo ed Achilleo, 185. S. Caterina del Funari, 149. S. Nicolo in Carcere, 38, 185 di Siena, 149. S. Onofrio, 186. S. Cecilia, 150. S. Pancrazio, 187. S. Cesareo, 151. S. Paolo fuori le Mura, i?2. S. Clemente, 151. alle Tre Fontane, 187. S. Cosimato, 158. S. Pietro in Vaticano, ico. SS. Cosraa e Damiano, 158. in Montorio, 188. S. Costanza, 159. in Vincoli, 189. S. Crisogono, 159. S. Prassede, 191. S. Croce in Gerusalemme, 160. 11 Priorato, 172. S. Domenico e Sisto, 161. S. Prisca, 192, COLONNA. Churches in Rome of— S. Pudentiana, 193. SS. Quattro Incoronati, 194. S. Saba, 194. S. Sabina, 194. S. Salvatore. in Lauro, 197. S. Sebastiano, 197. S. Silvestro, 198. S. Sisto, 199. S. Stefano Cacco, 199. Rotondo, 199. S. Susanna, 199. S. Teodoro, 45, 200. S. Tommaso degl' Inglesi, 200. La Trinita dei Monti, 201. de' Pellegrini, 202. S. Urbano, 36. SS. Vincenzo ed Anastaslo, 187. S. Vitale, 202. Cicciaporci palace, 289. Cicero, villa of, at Tusculum, 394- Ciceroni and guides, xxix. Ciciliano (Ciceliou), 384. Circuses of ancient Rome :— Agonalis, 55. Apollinaris, 56. Flaminian, 5$. Flora, 55. . Hadrian, 56. Maximus, 54. of Nero, 56. Romulus, or Maxentius, 55. Sallust, 56. Varianus, 54. Ciriaca, Sta., catacomb3 of, 138, 354- Citorio, Monte, 54. Civita Lavinia,town, 412. Civitella, la, village, 388. Clark, Sir Jas., on the climate of Rome, 324. Claudian family, their supposed tomb, 69. Claudius, temple of, 37. Clemente, S., church, of, 151. Climate of Rome, 322. Clivus Capitolinus, 24. Cloaca Maxima, 86. Clubs, xv. Coazzo, farm, 428. Coins, Roman, xlvii. Coliseum, the, 50 ; its flora,53. Collatia, site of, 427, Colleges at Rome : — American, 312. English, 200. Irish, 142. Propaganda, 312. Romano, 309. Sapienza, 309. Scottish, 145. Collina, Porta, 6. Colonna, town of," 414. , palace and gardens at Rome, 289. , Rione, 3. Mome* 491 C^ONNADES. Colonnades of St. Peter's, 102, Colossus of Nero, 54. Columbaria of Rome, 79. Column of Antoninus Pius, 56. of M. Aurelius Antoninus, 56. of C. Duilius, 258. of Phocas, 24, 57. of Trajan, 57. — of the Immaculate Con ception, 312. Commission agents, xxx. Communion of St. Jerome, painting of the, by Domeni chino, 242. Compatri, Monte, village. 415. Concerts, xxxi. Concord, temple of, 37. Conservators, palace of the 256. Consolazione, la, hospital, 318. Constantia, St., her tomb, 72. Constantine, basilica of, 25, 35 ; arch of, 58 ; baths, 64. Consuls, foreign, at Rome, xviii, Consulta, palazzo della, 292. Conti, Torde', 95. Conveyances, public, from Rome, xv. Copyists of old masters, xxvii Corioli, city of, now Monte Giove, 412. Corn-cutters, xxi. Corneto, town, 467. Corniculum, 374. Cornufelle, lake of, 414. Corsini palace, 292. Correse, Cures, 430. Corso, the, 2. Corvinus, Messalla, his tomb, 370. Cosa, site of, 482. Cosimato, S., church of, 158; convent of, 384. Cosma e Damiano, SS-, church of, 158. Costaguti palace, 294. Costanza, S., her sarcophagus, 223 ; church of, 159. Councils, general, 126. Cremera river, 431, 436. Crescenza, valley of, 436. Crisogono, S., church of, 159. Croce, Santa, in Gerusalemme (basilica), 160. Crypts, or Grotte, of St. Peter's, 112. Curia Innocenziana, 294. Julia, 25. D. Dancing, teachers of, xxv, Decima, river of, 449. Dentists at Rome, xxi. FENCING. Digentia, now village of Li cenza, 388. Diligences, xv. Diocletian, his baths, 64. Divus Rediculus, temple of, 38. Dolabella, arch of, 59. Dome of St. Peter's, 106 ; ascent of, 115. Domenico e Sisto, SS., church of, 161. Domine quo Vadis, ch. of, 368. Dominicans, head-quarters of, 176,. Doria palace and gallery, 295 ; villa, 409. Doves of Pliny, 271. Drawing, teachers of, in Rome, xxiv. Drawing materials, xxix. Drusus, his arch, 60. Duilian column, 258. Education, elementary, 316. Egeria, pretended fountain and valley of, near Rome, 90 ; real valley of Egeria, 367, 4U. Egyptian Museum of the Vati can, 230. Electric telegraph, xix. Emperors, Roman, list of, xlviii. Empire, ruins of the, 16. Emporium, ruins of, &c, 196. Engravers of cameos, &c, xxvii. , copperplate engravings, xxii. Eretum, 430. Esquiline, the, 13. Este, d', villa, at Tivoli, 382. Etruscan Museum of the Va tican, 225. Eurysaces the baker, his tomb, 69. Eustachio, S., Rione of, 3. Excursions in the neighbour hood of Rome, 366. F. Fabbrica, Porta, 9. Fabii, supposed site of their defeat, at Veii, 436, 438. Fabius, arch, site of, 24. Falconieri palaces, 289, 297 ; villa. 393. Farnese gardens, 28. Isola, village of, 433, 436, 479- palace, 297. Farnesina palace, 298. Fasti Consulares of the Capitol, 261. Fencing, teacher of, xxv. FOUNTAINS. Ferentina, Aqua, 398. Festivals : — at Rome in general, xxxi. chronological list of, liv. Annunciation, 176. St. Antony (blessing the animals), 145. the Artists', xxxii. the Carnival, xxxi. Sta. Francesca Romana, 161. Infiorata di Genzano, 412. St. John Lateran, 125. Sta. Maria Maggiore, 132. S. Marco, 168. October, xxxii. St. Peter's, 117. S. Pietro in Vincoli, 191. Presepe in Ara Coeli, 172. St. Thomas Aquinas, 176. St. Thomas a Becket, 200. washing the Feet of the Pilgrims, 202. Fiano, 440. Ficulea, 429. Fidentc, 436. Filippo Neri, S., convent and library, 183. Fiora, river, 473, 476, 479. Firenze, palazzo di, 300. Fiumicino, village, 445. Flaminius, his circus, 55. Flavian amphitheatre (Coli seum), 51. Flavinia, site of, 440, Flora, circus of, 55. Fonte di Papa, 431. Foreign ministers at Rome xviii. Fortuna, temples of: at Pales- trina,4i9; Virilis at Rome, 38 . Forums : — of Antoninus, 25. of Augustus, 26. Boarium, 27. of Julius Caesar, 27. of Nerva, 26. Olitorium, 27. Romanum, 21. of Trajan, 26. Transitorium, 26. Foundling hospital of Rome, 318. Fountain of Egeria, at Nemi, 367, 413 ; pretended, at Rome, 90. Fountains, modern : — dell' Acqua Felice, 97. della Barcaccia, 96. del Campidoglio, 97. of the Piazza Farnese, 97. of the Quirinal, 97. Paolina, 95. of the Piazza Navona, 96. in the piazza of St. Peter's, 97. of the Ponte Sisto, 97. delle Tartarughe, 96. de' Termini, 97. 492 Rome. FOUNTAINS. Fountains, modern :— di Trevi, 96. del Tritone, 96. FranceBca Romana, S., church of, 161. Francesco, S., a Ripa, church of, 162. Frascati, town, 391. Fratres Arvales, 445. Frattoechie, le, 407. B'unerals, Protestant, xxxi. 322. Furba, Porta, 390. Fusano, Castel, casino and pine-forest, 453. Gabii, city, 424 ; lake, 426. Galera, deserted town, 441. Galileo, persecution of, 176. Galleries (public) of pictures ; at the Capitol, 262. at the Lateran, 276, Academy of St. Luke, 313. at the Quirinal, 279. at the Vatican, 240. Galleries (public) of sculpture at the Capitol, 263. ofthe Lateran, 273. at the Vatican, 208, 214. Galleries (private) ; Badia, 282. Barberini, 282, Borghese, 284. Colonna, 289. Corsini, 292. Doria, 295. Farnese, 297. Rospigliosi, 302. ' Sciarra, 303. Spada, 305. Gallicano, town, 383, 423. ¦ , S., hospital of, 319. Gallienus, his arch, 60. Gallinas Albas, ad, site of Livia's villa (so called), 440. Gandolfo, Castel, 403. Gardens of the Vatican, 253 ; of the Quirinal, 280. Gates. See Porta. Gell on the environs of Rome, xli ; on the site of Alba Longa, 399- Genaro, Monte, ascent of, 388. Genazzano, town and castle of, 387, 421. Genzano, town, 412. Geology of Rome and its neigh bourhood, 3:8. Gesu, church of, 162. Geta, his tomb, 76, 368. Ghetto, the, at Rome, 3, 145. Giacomo, S., hospital of, 318. Gibbon, his first idea of writing the history of the * Decline and Fall ' in the church of the Ara Cceli, 172. HOUSES. Giorgio, S„ church of, 162. Giovanni, Porta San, 7. Giovanni, S., basilica of, 122. Batista, church of, 163. Evangelista, or a Porta Latina, church of, 164. — — dei Fiorentini, church of. 163. in Fonte, 126. in Oleo, church of, 164. e Paolo, church of, 163. Girandola, the, 75. Giraud palace, 300. Giuseppe dei Falegnami, S., church of, 164. Giustiniani palace, 300. Gladiator, the Dying, of the Capitol, 267. Grano, Monte del, sepulchral tumulus, 390. Graviscae, site of, 472. Gregorio, S., church of, 164. Grillo, Torre del, 95. Grotta Ferrata, village and monastery of S. Nilus at, 396- Grotta Marozza (Eretum), 430. Grotte Vaticane, or crypts of St. Peter's, 112. Guarcino, town, 387. H. Hadrian, his architecture, 46 ; his circus, 56 ; his mauso leum, 72 ; his villa near Tivoli, 375 ; his villa near Palestrina, 420. Hand in a wreath, an emblem, '5°, 153. 181. Helena, the empress, her tomb, 72; her sarcophagus, 223. Henry IV. of France, pillar re cording his change of faith, 132. Hills, the seven, of Rome, 12. about Rome, height of the principal, 83. Hippolito, S., farm, 447. Historical houses at Rome, 307. Horace's Sabine Farm, 387. Horatia, tomb of, 76. Horatii and Curiatii, supposed tombs of, 370. Horticultural gardens, 367. Hospitals, 317. Hotels in Rome, ix. House agents, xii. Housekeeping in Rome, xiii. Houses of remarkable persons : Bernini, 308. Pietro da Cortona, 308. Poussin, 308. Raphael, 307. Houses of remarkable persons : Cola di Rienzo, 94. Sweynheim and Pannartz the printers, 308. the Zuccheri, 308. Howard, Cardinal, 175, 200. Hunting at Rome, xxx. I. Ignazio, St., church of, 165. Illuminations of St. Peter's, 116. Inquisition, palace of the, 300 ; place of meeting, 176. Inscriptions, gallery of, in the Vatican, 207. Institute, Archaeological, at Rome, 316. Ischia, village, 479. Isidoro, St., church, 165. Island of the Tiber (Isola Sa cra), 36, 453. Isola Farnese, 433, 436, 479; Sacra, at the mouth of the Tiber, 447.453- Italian, teachers of, xxiii. J. Janiculum hill, 14. Janus Quadrifrons, arch of, 60. Jewish catacombs, 359, 368. Jews in Rome, xxxviil. Jewellers in Rome, xxvii. John Lateran, basilica of St., 122. Julia, Basilica, 24. Juno, temples of: — Gabina at Gabii, 425. Sospita at Rome, 38. Sospita at Lanuvium, 412. Jupiter, temples of : — Capitolinus at Rome, 4p. Feretrius at Rome, 40. Latialis on the Alban mount, 402. Juturna, lake of, 87. Kingly period, antiquities, 14. Kings, list of, xlviii. Kircherian museum, 310. Labicum, the ancient, 415. Lace-dealers, xxix. Laghetto, il, quarries, 416. Lago Morto, 442. Lakes : — Albano, 403. Bracciano, 440. Rome, 493 LAKES. Lakes : — Cornufelle, 414, Gabii, 426. Nemi, 413. de' Tartari, 374. Regillus, probable site of, 415, 4I6- Languages, teachers of, xxili. Lante palace, 301 ; villa, 343. Lauuvium, city, 412. Laocoon, the, 217. Laquais-de-place, xxix. Lariccia, town of, 411 ; viaduct of, 411. Last Judgment, fresco of, in the Vatican, 206. r Lateran Palace and Museum, 272. Basilica, 122 ; church ceremonies in, 125; councils, 126; cloisters, 126; baptistery, 126 ; oratory, 127 ; Scala Santa, 128. Latina, Porta, 8. Laurentum, ancient, 454. Lava-quarries of Capo di Bove, 7L Lavinium, city, 455. Lente, valley, 480. Letters, conveyance of, xix. Libraries :— Angelica, 142. Barberini, 283. Casanatense, 175. Chigi, 289. Collegio Romano, 309. Corsini, 294. S. Croce in Gerusalemme, 160. S. Filippo Neri, 183. Inquisition, 301, Minerva, 177. Sapienza, 309. Vatican, 246. Libraries, circulating, in Rome, xxi. Licenza, village, 388. Liucei, academy of the, 315. Livery stables, xvii. Livia, villa of, at Prima Porta, 440. Local arrangement of Roman Mirabilia, 363. Lodgings at Rome, xi. Loggie of the Vatican, 239. Lorenzo, S., basilica of, 135 ; churches — e Damaso, 166 ; in Lucina, 166 ; in Miranda, 166; in Panis-Perna, 166. , Porta di, 7. Lucano, Ponte, bridge and tomb of Plautius Lucanus, 375- Ludovisi, villa, 343. Luigi, S , church of, 167. Luke, St., academy of, 3 13. ! Lunghezza, castle of, 427. M. Macchia, la, 457. Madama palace, 301 ; villa, 384. Maggiore, Porta, 7. Magliana, la, 445. \ Malafede, 449, 455. Malpasso, 431. Mamertine prisons, 84. Manciano, village, 481. Mandela, Sabine village, 384. Manziana, village, 444. Maps of Rome, xiii. Maranna river, 367. Marano, 385. Marcello, S., church of, 167. Marcellus, his theatre, 49 ; his tomb, 68. Marcigliana, la, farm, 431. Marco, S., church of, 168. Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, his column, 56 ; his eques trian statue, 255. Marforio, colossal statue of, 98, 263. Maria, S., churches of, 168- 184. Maria Maggiore, S., basilica of, 128. Mariana stream, 390, 406. Marino, town, 397.- Mario, Monte, 14. Marius, trophies of, 89, 255. Markets, xiii. Marmorata, 8, 198. Mars Ultor, temple of, 40. Marta, river, 467, 477. Martina, S., church of, 184, Martino, S., church of, 184. Massimo palace, 301 ; villa, 345- Mater Matuta, temple of, 48. Mattei palace, 230 ; villa, 344. Mausoleum of Augustus, 67 ; of Hadrian, 72. Maxentius, circus of, or of Romulus, 55. Maximus, circus of, 54. Measures, Roman, xlvii. Mecaenas, his gardens on the Esquiline, 66 ; his villa at Tivoli, 381. Medals, cabinets of. See Mu seums. Medici villa, 344. Medullia, ancient, 374- Mellini villa, 345. Mentana, town, 430. Meta Sudans, the, 53. Metronia, Porta, 7. Michael Angelo, his statue of Moses, 189; his frescoes in the Vatican, 205. Michele, S., hospital of, 3 20. MUSE DM. Mignone, valley, 444, 467, Milizie, Torre delle, 95. Milliarium aureum, 23. Minerva, temples of: Chalcidi- ca, 41 ; Medica, 41 ; Pallas Minerva, 41. Ministers, foreign, at Rome xviii. Molara, la, 395. Molino torrent, 432. Mondragone, villa, 393, 444, Money, Roman, xlvii. Montalto, town of, 472. , villa, 392. Monte Algido, 403. Artemisio, 402. Aventino, 13. — Caelio, 13. Capitolino, 13. Caprino, 13. Carpineto, 387. Catillo, 380. Cavallo, 13. Cavo, 401. Citorio, 54. Compatri, 415. — — Cucco, 399. — — Esquilino, 13. Genaro, 388. Giordano, 54. Giove, 411. del Grano, 390. ¦ Gianicolo, 14. Mario, 14. Musino, 443. Palatino, 13. Pila, 395, 403. Pincio, 14. Porzio, 415. Quirinale, 13. Ripoli, 379. — — Rocca Romana, 442, Rotondo, 430. Sacro (M. Sacer), 428. • Tarpeio, 84. — — Testaccio, 14. Vaticano, 14. Verde, 14. Viminale, 13. Montemerano, town, 481. Monterone, antiquities at, 461. Montevecchlo palace, 302. Monti, Rione, 4. Monticelli, village of, 374. Mosaic manufactory at the Va tican, 253 ; artists at Rome, xxviii. Mosaic, the, of Palestrina, 419. Moses, statue of, 189. Muro Torto, 5. Museo Borgia, 312. Chiaramonti (Vatican), 208 ; Pio-Clementinof 214 ; Gregoriano, 225. Museum of early Christian an tiquities : Vatican, 249 ; at the Lateran, 276. 494 Rome. MUSEUM. Museum of Egyptian antiqui ties : Vatican, 230. of Etruscan antiquities : Coll. Romano, 310 ; Vatican, 225. . of Greek and Roman an tiquities: Capitol, 266; La teran, 27 j ; Vatican, 208; Villa Albani, 335 ; "V. Bor ghese, 340; V. Ludovisi, 343. ¦ of medals and coins : Coll. Romano, 310; Vatican, 251. of natural history, 311. of the Sapienza, 309. Music-teachers in Rome, xxiv. Music-shops, xxiv. Musignano, chateau, 476. Muti palace, 302 ; villa, 392. N.' Nasos, tomb of the, 75. Negroni, villa, 346. Nemi, lake, village, and castle of, 413. Neptune, temple of, 42. Nereo ed Achilleo, church of, 185 ; catacombs of, 360. Nero, his so-called tower, 13, 95; his house, 28, 31; his colossus, 54 ; his circus, 56 ; his baths, 65 ; his villa, 385 ; his works at Porto d'Anzio, 457* Nerola, village, 430. Nerva, his forum, 26. Nettuno, town, 459. Niccolini palace, 302. Nicolo, S., church of, 185. Nobility, Roman, xxxiii ; titles of, xxxiv. Nomentana, Porta, 6. Nomentum, ancient, 430. Norchia, 482. Numicus, river, 455. 0. Obelisks of— S. John Lateran, 92. S. Maria Maggiore, 92. Monte Cavallo, 93. Monte Citorio, 93. Monte Pincio, 93. Pantheon, 93. Piazza della Minerva, 93. Piazza Navona, 92. P. del Popolo, 92. Trinita de' Monti, 93. Vatican, 91. Observatory of the Capitol, 309 ; of the Collegio Ro mano, 311. Ootavia, portico of, 88. Odescalchi palace, 302. PALACES. Olevano, town and castle of, 387, 422. Olitorium, Forum, 27, 85. Onofrio, S., church of, 186. Orasini, 388. Oratorios, origin of, 183. Oriolo, village, 443. Orsini palace, 302. Orti Farnesiani, 28. Roncioni, 34. Osa, Castello dell', 426, 427. Oateria Nuova, 430. Ostia, excursion to, 448. Ostiensis, Porta, 8, P. Painted tombs, 78, 435. Painters in Rome, xlv. Painting, teachers of, in Rome, xxiv. Palace ofthe Caesars, 27. Palaces, modern, public : — Capitol, 255. Lateran, 272. Vatican, 202, Quirinal, 279. Palaces, private :— Albani, 281. Altemps, 282. Altieri, 282. Barberini, 282. at Palestrina, 418. Berti, 284. Bonaparte, 287. Borghese, 284. Bracciano, 302. Braschi, 287. Cancelleria, 287. Capranica, 282. Caserta, 288., Cenci, 288. Cesarini, 289. Chigi, 289. Cicciaporci, 289. Colonna, 289. Consulta, 292. Corsini, 292. Costaguti, 294. Doria, 295. Falconieri, 289, 297. Farnese, 297. Farnesina, 298. di Firenze, 300. Giraud, 300. Giustmiani, 300. of the Inquisition, 300. Lante, 301. Maccarani, 288. Madama, 301. Massimo, 301. Mattei, 301. di Monte Citorio, 294. Monte vecchio, 302. Muti-Papazurri, 302. Niccolini, 302. Odescalchi, 302. PETERS. Palaces, private :— Orsini, 302. Pamfili, 302. Piombino, 289. Ricciardi, 284. Rospigliosi, 302. Ruspoli, 303. Sacchetti, 303. Sciarra, 303. Silvestri, Regis, or Linotta, 304. Spada, 305. Torlonia, 307. Turci, 307. di Venezia, 307. Vidoni, 307. Palatina, villa, 33, 346. Palatine hill, the, 13, 32. Palazzola, monastery of, 400. Palestrina, town, 415. Paliano, town and fortress, 422, Palidoro, 462. Pallas Minerva, portico of, 41, Palo, town of, and stat. at, 461. Palombara, village, 374. Pamfili palace, 302 ; villa, 346. Pancrazio, St., church of, 187. , Porta San, 9. Panoramic view of Rome, 11. Pantano, plain of, 41 6. Pantheon, the, 42. Paolo, S., basilica of, 132. , alle Tre Fontane, church of, 187. , Porta di, 8. Parcels conveyance, xxx. Parco di Colonna at Marino, 398. dei Barberini, 416. Parione, Rione, 3. Pasquin, statue of, 97, 263. Passerano, 383. Passport regulations, xiv. Pastore, S., convent, 426. Pater Indiges, grove of, 456. Patricians, Roman, respective ranks of, xxxv ; their privi leges, xxxvi. Paul, St., supposed site of his execution, 187. Peace, temple of,. its site, 25. Peacock's feathers as emblems, 119. Pearls, Roman, xxix. Pertusa, Porta, 9. Peter, St., his prison, 85 ; tra ditional site of his crucifixion, 190, 189 ; his chains, 189, 186 ; his statue and chair, 107 ; his tomb, 114. Peter's, St., basilica: history, 100; colonnades, faqade, 103 ; interior, 104 ; nave, 104 ; ground-plan, 105; dome, 106 ; ascent of dome, 115; bal dacchino, 107; tribune, monu ments,' 107 ; Grotte Vaticane, 112; Chapel of the Confes sional, 114; sacristy, 115; Rome, 495 PETER'S. QUATTRO. RUINS. illuminartbns, 116; church Porta Aurelia, 9. Quintilius Varus, his villa at ceremonies in, 117. Capena, 8. Tivoli, 381. Peter's, St., cathedral at Fras Castello, 9. Quirinal hill, the, 13. cati, 391- Cavalleggieri, 9. palace, 279. Phocas, his column, 24, 57. • Collina, 6. Quirinus, temple of, 45. Photographs, xxiii. Fabbrica, 9. Physicians at Rome, xx. Furba, 390. K. Pia, Porta, 6. di S. Giovanni, 7, 486. Piazzas, 97. Latina, 8. Railways, xv. Picture-dealers, xxix. dl S. Lorenzo, 7, 485. Rank, rules of, xxxv. Pietra Aurea, farm, 428. — — Maggiore, 7, 486. Raphael : his house at Rome, Pietro, S., in Montorio, church • Metronia, 7. 307 ; his tomb, 44 ; the of, 188. ¦ Nomentana, 6. Transfiguration, 243 ; Lojrgie , in Vincoli, church of, 189. Ostiensis, 8. of, 238 ; Tapestries of, 230 ; Pigna, Rione, 3, S. Pancrazio, 9. Stanze of, 232. Pincian hill, 14. ¦ S. Paolo, 8, 486. Reading-rooms, xxi. Pinciana, Porta, 6. Pertusa, 9. Rediciolli, farm, 438. Pitigliano, town, 479. Pia, 6. Regillus, lake, battle of, 414, Plautius, tomb of, 75, 375- ¦ Pinciana, 6. 416. Pliny's Doves, mosaic so called, del Popolo, 5. Regola, Rione, 3- 271. Portese, 9. Religious houses suppressed Poggio Cesi, hill, 374* Salara, 6, 485. since the deposition of Pius Poli, village, 424. S. Sebastiano, 8. IX., lvii. Polline, site of, 442. Spezzeiia at Veii, 432. Remus, temple of, 45. Pompey, theatre of, 49 ; statue Trigemina, 196. Republic, ruins ofthe, 15. of, in the Spada palace, 305 ; ¦ Viminalis, 6. remarkable events during tomb of, 408 ; villa of, 409. Portese, Porta, 9. the, xlviii. Pons iElius, 9. Portico of Octavia, 88, 173. Restaurateurs in Rome, xii. jEmilius, 10. Portland vase, the, 390. Rides about Rome, 482. Cestius, 10. Porto, ancient harbours of Rienzo, Cola dl, his house, 94 ; — — Fabricius, 10. Claudius and Trajan, and his bath, 127 ; his vigil at S. Gratianus, 10. other rains at, 446. Angelo, 145 ; at S. Giorgio, Janiculensis, 10. Porto d'Anzio, 457. 163 ; festivities on his being Nomentanus, 428. Post-office regulations, xix. made tribune, 255 ; at Tivoli, Sublicius, 11. Praetorian camp at Rome, 89 ; 379 ; at Palestrina, 418. ¦ Triumphalis, Aurelii, or at Albano, 409. Rioni of modern Rome, 2. Vaticanus, 10. Prassede, S., church, 191. Rio Torto, 455. Ponte del Acquoria, 3 74. Pratica, 455. Ripa, Rione, 4. S. Angelo, 9. Pratone, the, 388. Ritorto, Passo di, 385. della Badia, 472. Prato Rotondo, 437. Rocca Canterano, 385. S. Bartolommeo, 10. Presentations to the Pope, di Cave, 421. Galera, 445. xxxiii. Giovine, 388. dell' Isola, 432. Pretextatus, S., catacomb of, di Papa, 401. Lomentano, 428, 438. 353. Priora, 420. Lucano, 375. Prima Porta, 439. Rocco, S., hospital of, 319. Mammolo, 373. Printsellers in Rome, xxii. Rojate, village, 422. Molle, 439. Priorato. church of the, 172. Roma Vecchia, casale of, 390. di Nona, 425. Prisca, S., church of, 192. Roman Forum, localities of, 21. de' Quattro Capi, 10. Priscilla, her tomb, 76, 368. Roman nobility, titles, ranks, della Refolta, 449. Promenades, 99. he, xxxiii. Rotto, 10. Propaganda college, 312. Roman pearls, xxix. Salaro, 431, 437. Protestant burial-ground at Romano, Collegio, 309. Sisto, 10. E,ome, 321. Rome, excursions from, 366- Sodo, 412. Protestant Divine worship, 482. Ponte, Rione, 3. xxx. , rides in the vicini ty of, 482 . Pope, presentations to the, Protomoteca of the Capitol, 257. Romulus, temple of, 4;. xxxiii. Public edifices in Rome under , son of Maxentius, temple Popes, list of, in chronological the new regime, lviii. of, 46 ; circus of, 55. order, 1. Pudentiana, S., church of, 193. Rospigliosi palace and casino, Popes, destruction of Roman Pulchrum Littus, 87. 302. monuments by, 19. Pyrgos, site of, 467. Rostra, ancient, 25. Popolo, Porta del, 5, 483. Rotonda, la, 42. Population of Rome, xxxvii. Q. Rotto, Ponte, 10. Populonia, 482. Roviano, village, 385. Porcigliano, 455. Quattro Capi, Ponte di, 10. Ruffinella villa, 392. Porta Angelica, 9, 484. Quattro Incoronati, church of. Ruins of Rome, general review • Asinaria, 7. , 194. of, 14. 496 Rome. RUSELL.E. TEMPLES. TOMBS. Rusellae, ruins at, 482. Sorano, village, 478. Temples at Rome : — Ruspoli palace, 303. Sovana, village, 478. Concord, 37> Rustica, la, 388,427. Spada palace, 305; villa, 28, 437. Divus Rediculus, 38. Spoliarium and Vivarium, 89. Faunus, 36. Sporting at Rome, xxx. Fortuna Muliebris, 390. S. Spunta Pietra, la, tomb, 428. — Virilis, 38. Stanze of Raphael, at the Va Juno Sospita, Hope, and Saba, S-, church of, 194. tican, 232. Piety, 38. Sabina, S., church of, 194. Statilius Taurus, amphitheatre Jupiter Capitolinus, 40 ; Fe- Sacchetti palace, 303. of, 54- retrius, 40. Sacro Speco, at Subiaco, 386. Steamboats on the Tiber, xvif. Mars Ultor, 40. Sacra Via, 25. from Civita Vecchia, xvii. Mater Matuta, 48. Salara, Porta, 6. Stefano, S., churches of, 199. , ruined basilica of, 406. Minerva Chalcidica, 41. Sallust, circus of, 56 ; his house Minerva Medica, 41. and gardens, 88. Stigliano, baths of, 445. Neptune, 42. Salvatore, S., church of, 197. Storta, la, 441. Pallas Minerva, 41. -— hospital, 318. Stranger's Diary, liii. Pantheon, 42. Sambucci, village, 384. Studios of artists at Rome, xlv. Quirinus, 45. Santa Colomba, casale of, 431. Stuarts, the, their monument Remus, 45. Santa Scolastica,monastery,386. in St. Peter's, 109 ; their Romulus, 45. Santangelo, village, 374. tomb in the crypt, 114. Romulus, son of Maxentius, Santa Severa (Pyrgos), 467. ,Chas. Edw., his monument 46. Santo Polo, village and castle, at Frascati, 391. Saturn, 46. 383. , Henry : see York, card. Sun, 46, 292. Santo Spirito, hospital, 317. Suana, ancient, 478. Trajan, 46. Sapienza, university ofthe, 309. Subiaco, town, 385. Venus and Cupid, 47. Saracinesco, village, 384. Sublicius, Pons, 11. Venus and Rome, 47 . Sarriva torrent, 468. Sulphur casts, xxix. Vespasian, 48. Saturn, temple of, 46. Sun, temple of the, 46. Vesta, 48. Saturnia, city of, 480. Surgeons at Rome, xx. Temples at Tivoli : — Saxa Rubra, 436, 439. Susanna, S., church of, 199. Tiburtine Sibyl, 379. Scala Santa, at the Lateran, Sutri, town, 482. Vesta, 378. 128. della Tosse, 381. Scalzacane, 389. Teodoro, S., church of, 200. Scarpellata, la, 389. Testaccio, Monte, 14. Schola Xantha, 23, 481 T. Teverone, or Anio, river, 373, Sciarra palace, 303. 374- Scipio family, their tomb, 75. Theatres, ancient :— Sculptors in Rome, xliv. Tabularium, remains of the, of Balbus, 49. Sebastiano, San, basilica of, 197, 21. atBovillae, 407. , Porta di San, 8. Tapestries of Raphael in the Gabii, 426. Secretarium Senatus, 24. Vatican, 230. of Marcellus, 49. Sediaccia, the, tomb, 428. Tarpeian Rock, 84. Ostia, 451. Sempronil, tomb of the, 77. Tarquinii, Etruscan city, 468. of Pompey, 49. Senator, palace of the, 255. Tartari, lago de', 374. at Tusculum, 394. Seneca, his supposed monu Taverna, villa, 392. Villa Adriana, 376. ment, 369, Teachers of languages at Rome, Theatres, modern, at Rome, Septimius Severus, his arches, xxiii ; of music, singing, xxxi. 60, 61 ; Septizonium, 34. drawing, &c, xxiv, xxv. Thermae, see Baths. Servilii, tomb of the, 16. Temples : — on the Alban Tiber,river,its level at R,ome, r. Servius Tullius, his walls of Mount: Jupiter Latialis, 402. , island of the, 3$, 447, 453. Rome, and his Agger, 87. Anna Perenna, 456. Tiberius, arch, site of, 24. Sette Bassi, ruins, 390. at Civita Lavinia : Juno Titles of nobility, xxxiii. Sale, 67. Sospita, 412. Titus, arch of, 25, 61 ; baths of, Seven hills of Rome, 12. at Gabii : Juno Gabina, 65. Shopkeepers in Rome, xxv. 425. Tivoli, town, 377. Sibyl, temple of the Tiburtine, at Ostia, 451, 452. Tolfa, la, 444. at Tivoli, 379. at Palestrina : Fortune, Tombs, ancient, of— Silvestri palace, 304. 419- Aruns, 410. Silvestro, S., church of, 198. at Porto : Portumnus, 446. Augustus, 67. Bibulus, 69. Sisto, Ponte, 10. at Rome : — , S., church of, 199. ^sculapius, 35, Caecilia Metella, 69, 407. Sixtine chapel in S. M. Mag Antoninus and Faustina, 36. Caius CeBtius, 71. giore, 130; in the Vatican, Apollo, 34. Claudian family, 69. 204. Bacchus, 36. St. Constantia, 72. Solfatara, on the road to Tivoli, Ceres and Proserpine, 37. M.Corvinus, 370, 374- Claudius, 37. the baker Eurysaces 69. ttome. 497 T^MBS. Tombs, ancient, of— Geta, 76, 368. Hadrian, 72, 253. St. Helena, 72. Horatia, 76. Marcellus, 68. . the Nasos, 75, 439. the Painted, on the Via Latina, 78. Plautius Lucanus, 75, 375- Pompey, 408. Priscilla, 76, 368. the Scipios, 75. Sempronii, 77. Seneca (supposed), 369. Servilii, 16. the Via Salaria, 75. Vibius Marianus, 79. Tombs on the Via Appia, 76. on the Via Latina, 77. — on the Via Nomentana, 428. at Cervetri, 463. at Tarquinii, 468. Tommaso, S., ch, of, 200. Topography of Rome, 1. Torlonia palace, 307 ; villa, 392. Torraccio, il, 460. Torre Boacciano, 452. ¦ ¦ de' Conti, 95. • ¦ del Grillo, 95. Lupara, 429. ¦ di Mezza Via, 407. ¦ di S. Michele, 448. delle Milizie, 95. di Nerone, 13. Nuova, 416. Paterno, 454. Pignatarra, 416. — di Quinto, 439. di Sapienza, 427. de' Schiavi, 424. Tre Teste, 425. Vajanica, 456. Toscanella, town, 477. Tosse, Tempio della, 381. Tower ofthe Capitol, 11. Tradesmen in Rome, xxv. Trajan, his forum, basilica, and library, 26 ; his temple, 46 ; his column, 5 7 ; his baths, 66 ; his Portus Trajanus, 447. Transfiguration, painting of the, by Raphael, 243. Translators, xxvii. Trastevere, Rione, 3. Trevi, 387. , Fontana di, 96 ; Rione, 3 . Trevignano, village, 444, 446. Trigemina, Porta, 196. Trinita, la, de' Monti, ch. of, 201. dei Pellegrini, 202. , hospital of, 319. Trophies of Marius, 89, 255. Turci palace, 307. Tuscania, Etruscan city, 477. Tusculum, ruins at, 393. [Rome.~\ V. Ulpia, Basilica, 26. Umbilicus Romae, 24. University of Rome (Sapienza), 3°9- Valchetta, torrent, 437. Valmontone, 403. Valle Pietra, 387. Varia, ancient, 384. Vatican : hill, 14 ; palace and museum, 200 ; history, 200 ; dimensions, 204 ; regulations, 204; Scala Regia, Sala Re gia, 204 ; Capella Sistina, 204 ; roof, 205; Capella Paolina, Sala Dueale, 207 ; museum, Galleria Lapidaria, 207 ; Mu seo Chiaramonti, 208 ; Braccio Nuovo, 211 ; M. Pio-Clemen- tino, 214; Cortile di Belve dere, Porticos and Cabinets, 216-219; Hall of Animals, 2rg; Gallery of Statues, 220; Hall of Busts, Cabinet of Masks, Hall of the Muses, 221 ; Circular Hall or Ro tonda, 222; Hall of the Greek Cross, 223 ; Hall of the Biga, 1 224; Gallery of the Can delabras, 224; Etruscan Mu seum (Museo Gregoriano), 225 ; Egyptian Museum, 230: of the Arazzi or tapestries of Raphael, 230 ; Gallery of Maps, 232 ; Stanze of Ra phael, 232; Capella di San Lorenzo, 238 ; Loggie, 239 ; Pinacotheca, or gallery of pictures, 240 ; Library of the Vatican, 246 ; Museo Cris tiano, 249 ; Gabinetto Borgia, 250 ; Museo Profano, 251 ; manufactory of mosaics, 253 ; Gardens, 253 ; Casino del Papa, 254 ; armoury, 254. Veii, Etruscan city, 431. Venantius, St., oratory of, 127. Venezia, piazza and palazzo di, 307. Venus, temples of: on the Nu micus, 456 ; Venus and Cu pid, 47 ; Venus and Rome, 25, 47- Verde, Monte, 14. Vespasian, temple of, 48. Vesta, temple of, at Rome, 48 ; at Tivoli, 378. Vetulonia, ancient, 482. Via Appia, 76, 366 ; Nova, 390, 406. ¦ Ardeatina, 449, 456. Aurelia, 347. Cassia, 439. VILLAS. Via Claudia, 441. Constantina, 375. Flaminia, 6, 438. Gabina, 415, 424. Labicana, 415. Latina, 77. Laurentina, 449, 454. Nomentana, 428, 437. ¦ Ostiensis, 449. Prsenestina, 424. Portuensis, 445. Sacra, 25. Salara, 431, 436. Severiana, 454. Sublacensis, 385. ¦ Tiburtina, 373. Triumphalis, 58, 402. Valeria, 383, 385. Veientina, 431. Vitellia, 347. Viaducts : of Lariccia, 411, 412. of Galloro, 412. of Genzano, 412. Vibius Marianus, his tomb, 79. Vicarello, baths, 443. Vicovaro, village, 3 84. Vicus Sceleratus, 191. Alexandrinus, 449. Vidoni palace, 307. Villas, ancient, of— Cassius, 382. Cicero, 394, 46c. Domitian, 409. Hadrian, near Tivoli, 375. , near Palestrina, 420. Mecaenas, 381. Pompey, 409. Quint. Varus, 381. Villas, modern : — Albani, 335. Aldobrandini, at Frascati, 392. Altieri, 339. Barberini, 409. Bonaparte, 339. Borghese, 339. Braschi, 382. Cesarini, at Genzano, 414. Doria, at Albano, 409. d'Este, at Tivoli, 382. Falconieri, at Frascati, 393. Lante, 343. Ludovisi, 343. Madama, 344. Massimo, 345. Mattei, 345. Medici, 345. Mellini, 345. Mondragone, at Frascati, 393. Montalto, 392. Muti, at Frascati, 392. Negroni, 346. Palatina, 33, 346. Pallavicini, at Porto, 392, Pamfili-Doria, 346. Ruffinella, 393. Sora, 392. Spada, 28, 437. Z ¦498 INDEX, Rome. VILLAS. WORKHOUSE. ZENOBIA. Villas, modern :— Vivarium and Spoliariun , 89. Tavema, at Frascati, 392. Volterra, 482. Y. Torlonia, 392. Vulci, Etruscau city, 472 York, card., his monument to del Trian goto, 416. the young Pretender, 391 ; Wolkonski, 347. Vibius Marianus, tomb of, 79. Vicovaro, 384. W. destroys temple of Jupiter Latialis, 402 ; his tomb, 109. Viminal hill, the, 13. Walls of Rome, 5. Viminalis, Porta, 6. Water, supply of, 83. Z, Vinceuzo ed Anastasio, SS., Weights, Roman, xlvii. church of, 187. Wolf of the Capitol, the, 260. Zagarolo, town, 383, 423. Vitale, S., church of, 202. Wolkonski villa, 347. Zeno, S., cemetery of, 187. Vitriano, convent of, 389. Workhouse of S. Maria, 3 20. Zenobia, baths of, 374. THE END. LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMTORP STllI.l.T, AND CHARING CROSS. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 1872. The heat Advertising Medium for all who are desirous of attracting the attention of English and American Tourists in all parts of the world. .Annual Circulation, 15,000. 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Petersburg — HOtel d'Angle terre 62 Pisa— Andreoni, Sculptor ... 5 Prague— Hofmann's Glass Manu factory • 9 Rome — Baker, Chemist ... 58 Shea, House Agent .... 14 Rotterdam — Kramers, Bookseller 63 Schaffhause n— HdtelSchwelzer- hof. 46 Stockholm— Fritze, Bookseller . 10 Stbesa — Hdtel des lies borromeea 37 St. Gall— Hdtel Tamlua ... 37 Thun — Sterchi, Sculptor in Wood 6 Turin— Grand HOtel .... 46. Venule— Grand Hotel Victoria . 53 Ponti, Optician 10 Vbyay— Hdtel d'Angleterre . . 38 Hdtel du Lac S3 Hdtel Monnet '48 Page Vienna— Dr. Beigel 60- Empress Elisabeth Hotel ... 82 Klein, Leathern & Bronze Goods 66 Lobmeyr's Glass Manufactory . 9 Villkneute— Hdtel Byron . . 44 Wiesbaden— Four Seasons Hotel 42 Rhine Hotel 40 Wildbad— HOtel Klumpp ... 41 Zoug— Stag Hotel 45 Zurich— Hdtel de I'Epee an Lac . 18 ENGLAND. 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MILAN •£ Mr- ®- ^' Buffet, Piazza di S. Sepolcro, No. I. {Messrs. Fbatelli Bbambilla. Messrs. Ulrich Sc Co. MUNICH i Messrs. Wlmmer & Co., Printsellers, Brienner Strasse. \ Messrs. Bleicheb & Andreis. NAPLES I Messrs. Iggulden & Co. Messrs. W. J. Turnee & Co. Mr. G. X Scala, Wine Merchant. Messrs. Flu. Questa. NEUCHATEL j Messrs. Bouvier Feebes, Wine Merchants. Messrs. Humbert Sc Co., (Suisse) (. Bazaar. NEW YORK Messrs. Austin Baldwin & Co. jdCE ( Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consulate. Messrs. M. & N. X Giobdan. Mr. H. Ullbich, 7, Quai Massena. Freres Mignon. NUREMBERG Mr. A. Pickert, Dealer in Antiquities. Mr. Max Picxret. OSTEND Messrs. Bach 8c Co. PALERMO Messrs. Ingham, Whittaker, & Co. PARIS Mr. L. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix des Petlts Champs, No. 24. PAU Mr. Mhsgrave Clay. PISA (Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint. Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. .' \Mr. G. Andreoni, Sculptor in Alabaster. pi? A pttp 3 Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stern. """»"* I Mr. A. V. Lebeda, Gun Maker. t Messrs. Plowden & Co. Messrs. A. Macbean & Co. Messrs. ROME I Freeborn, Pan-tell, 8c Co. Messrs. Maquay, Hooker, & Co. < Messrs. Furse Bros. & Co. Messrs. E."Welby, Son, & Co. Messrs. | Spada, Flamtni, 8c Co. Mr. J. P. Shea. Mr. A. Tombiki. Mr. \ Luigi Branchini, at the English College. ROTTERDAM...... Messrs. Preston Sc Co. Messrs. C. Hemmann 8c Co. SAN REMO Fratelli Asquasciati. airvnT t v 5 Mr. Julian B. Williams, British Vice-Consulate. Don Juan Akt. SEVILLE ^ Bailly. SMYRNA Messrs. Hanson & Co. ST. PETERSBURG . Messrs. Thomson, Bonae, & Co. Mr. C. Kbugeb. THOUNE j. . . . Mr. Jean Kehrli-Steechi. TRIESTE Messrs. Flu. Chiesa. TURIN Messrs. Rochas, Pere & Fils. f Mr. L. Bovaedi, Ponte alle Ballotte. VENICE -J Messrs. Freres Schielin. Mr. Antonio Zen. t Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal Sc Co. Mr. Carlo Pohti. VEVEY Mr. Jules Gbtaz Fils. vifistnt A S Mr. H. Ullrich, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 3. vuuhiiia I Messrs. J. 8c L. Lobmeyeb, Glass Manufacturers, 940, KSmthner VOLTERRA Sig. Otto; Solaiot. [Strasse. ZURICH Mr. Honegger-FBgli. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. FLORENCE. TELEMACO DI G. BIANCHINI, MANUFACTURER OF TABLE8 AND LADIES' ORNAMENTS OP FLORENTINE MOSAIC, LUNG' ARNO NTJOVO, 1, AND BORG' OGNISSANTI, 2, TNVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where ¦*¦ may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables and other Ornaments executed to any Desiga. T. Bianchini's Correspondents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cbackek, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. BRIENZ — INTERLACKEN. J. GKOSSMANN, SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, Carved and Inlaid Furniture manufactured to any Design, AT INTERLACKEN. TITS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof, *-*¦ where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McChacken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London.. PISA. GIUSEPPiTaNDREONI, Sculptor in Alabaster and Marble and Objects of Fine Art, NO; 872, VIA SANTA MARIA, WHERE A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE ARTS, SCULPTURE, &c, CAN BE SEEN. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'Ckacken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May T H U N. JEAN KEHRLI-STERCHI, AND MANUFACTURES OF SWISS MODELS AID ORBAMEITTS, For 26 years at the Woodwork Establishment at the Giesshach Falls, eldest son of the founder of said establishment, INVITES the attention of English tourists to his Establishment at the Bellevue Hotel, Thun, where a choice assortment of Swiss Wood Carvings may always be seen. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cbacken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, London. MUNICH. WIMMER & CO., GALLERY OF FINE ARTS. 3, BBIENNEB STEEET, Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gallery of Fine Arts, containing an Extensive Collection of M OD ERN PAINTINGS by the best Munich Artists, PAINTINGS ON POBCELAIN AND ON GLASS. also a large Assortment of PHOTOGRAPHS, including the complete Collections of the various Public Galleries. Correspondents in 'England, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. Correspondents in the United States, Messrs. Keller & Lime,' 97, Reade Street, New York. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. GENOA. ¦ 0. HORACE AUGUSTE MOSS A, J" 3S "W ELLEB, AHD MANUFACTURER OF GOLD AND SILVER FILAGREE WORK, Which obtained PRIZE MEDAL at the Universal Exhibition of London in 1851. His Establishments are situated in the Grand© Albergo d'ltalia,. in Via del Campo, near the Porta di Vacca ; he also keeps a Depository in the Grande Albergo di Gerwwa. He undertakes the execution of all Commissions with exactitude, and guarantees his Works to be of pure Gold and Silver,, and Silver doubly gilt. Travellers aie invited to visit his Establishments without obligation to purchase. Correspondents in England— Messrs. J. & K» MeCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. ME. TENNANT, GEOLOGIST, 149, STEAND, LONDON, W.C., gives practical Instruction in Mineralogy and Geology. He can also supply Elementary Collections of Minerals, Hocks, and Fossils, on the following terms :*— 100 Small Specimens, in cabinet, with three irays ......£220 •200 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with five tray a •> 5 6 0 300 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with eight drawers . . . . 10 lo o 400 Specimens, larger, In cabinet, with twelve drawers .... 21 0 0. More extensive collections, to illustrate Geology, at 50 to 160 Guineas each, with every- requisite te assist those commencing the study of this Interesting science, a knowledge of which affords so muchplfiaBure to the traveller mall parts ofthe world. * A collection for Fine Guineas which will illustrate the recent -works on G«ology by Ansted, Buckland, Jukes, Lyell, Murchisoa, Page, Phillips, and contains 200 Specimens, in. a cabinet, with five trays, comprising the following, viz. ; — Minskals Trtrich are ©idler the components of Kocks, or occasionally imbedded in them :— Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Horublende, Augfte, Asbestos, Felspar, Mica, Talc, Tourmal iue, Zircon, Topaz, Spinel, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Seleni te, Bary ta ,. Strontia, Salt, Cryolite, Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet, &c. .Native Metals or Metalliferous Minerals: these are found in masses, in beds, or in veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. Specimens of the following are contained in. the Cabinet :— Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, Platina, &c. RociiG^GraBite.G'neias.MicaH&ate.POTpbyry^ Palaeozoic Fossils, from the LIandeilo,Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and CarbociierocsKocks, Secondary Fossils,. from the Trias, Lias, Oolite, WeaLden, and Cretaceous Groups. Terti aey Fossils, i'rom the Woolwich, Barton, and BraekleshaiD Beds, London Clay , Crag, &c. In ths more expensive Collections some of the Specimens are rare, and all more select. ELEMENTABY LECTITBES ON MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY, adapted to yonng persons, are given by J. TENNANT, FJLG&. at his residence, 14$, STKAITD, W.C., and Private Instruction to Travellers, Engineers, Emigrants. landed, Proprietors, and others, illustrated by an extensive collection of Specimens, Diagrams, Models, &c All the recent works relating to Mineralogy, Geology, Conchology, and Chemistry; also* Geological Maps, Models, Diagrams, Hammers, Bio wpi pes, Magnifying Glasses, Platina Spoons, Electrometer and Magnetic Needle, Glass-top Boxes, Microscopic Objects, Acid Bottles, &c, can be supplied to the Student in these interesting and important branches of Science. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. JOHAM MARIA FARINA, GEGEMBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ (Opposite the JtMch'9 Place), PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES; TO H. M. THE KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF FRANCE; THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., OP THE ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, Which obtained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition 0/1S67. HTHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, -»- part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, indi , but for the most * induces me to request the attention of English travellers to the following statement : — The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it ; and in order to be able to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name, which Is a very common one in Italy. Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina, but also the additional words, gegenilber dem Julich's Platz (that is, opposite the Julich's Place), without addition of any number. Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, situated opposite the Julich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a high price and a bad article. Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters commissioners, &c, offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my house, opposite the Julich's Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three bear my name and firm, Johann Maria Farina, Gegenuber dem Julich's Platz. The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, awarded to me the Prize Medal ; that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1856 ; and received •the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and in *Oporto 1865. Cologne, January, 1869. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ. *,* My Agency in London is at Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C, 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. PRAGUE. WILLIAM HOFMANN, BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER, TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OP AUSTRIA, HOTEL BLUE STAR, Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments. Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. Goods forwarded direct to England, America, $c. INTERLACHEN. GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA, OPPOSIITE THE JUNGFRAU GLACIER. This new and beautiful house contains 210 Rooms ; Music, Reception, and Billiard Rooms, Saloons, &c. ENGLISH AND AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS. OPENING THE FIRST OF. APRIL EVERY YEAR. REDUCED PRICES UNTIL THE FIRST OF JULY. ED. RUCHTI, Proprietor. VI E N NA. The most extensive Warehouse for Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass. J. & L. LOBMEYR, GLASS MANUFACTURERS, No. 13, KARNTHNERSTRASSE. All kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass ; Table, Dessert, and other Services ; Vases, Candelabras,Chandelieis, Looking-glasses; Articles of Luxury, in Crystal Glass, mounted in Bronze, and in Carved Wood. They- obtained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibitions of 1862 and 1867. The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. — The English language is spoken. Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'Cracken, No. 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C, London, will transmit all orders with the greatest care and attention. i 10 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FLORENCE. MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI, ARTISTS, No. 8, VIA ROMANA, Opposite the Museum, of Natural Bittory 'Specula'), and near the Pitti Gallery. Messrs, Costa and Conti keep the largest collection in Florence of original Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. N.B. — English spoken. Correspondents in England, 'Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C, London. STOCKHOLM. C. E. FRITZE, BOOKSMLLEB, fiUITATE ADOIiFS fOBG (Sqsiare), (NEXT HOUSE TO THE RYDBERG HOTEL). Scandinavian, English, French, and German Books. TRAVELLING MAPS AND HANDBOOKS. "Views of Stockholm, and Swedish and Norwegian Peasant Costumes, in Photograph and Lithograph. "BRADSHAW'S RAILWAY GUIDE "-and "HENDSCHEL'S TELEGRAPH." 0. E. FBITZE, Bookseller, Gnstaf Adolfs Totg, Stockholm. VENICE. carlcTponti, OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER, Who gained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whose House is acknowledged to be the first of the kind in the City, is the Inventor of the Optical Instrument known under the name EEGALETH08C0PE, (first called Alethoscope), the most perfect instrument for magnifying photographs and showing them with the effects of night and day. His ISOPEBISCOFIC SPECTACLES gamed Medals at the Exhibitions of Paris and Padua, and were pronounced by the scientific bodies to be superior in principle to all othera, as well as being more moderate in price. His Photographic Establishment is in the Piazza San Marao, No. 52 , near the Cafe Florian ; and his Optical Establishment at Riva dei Schiavoni, No. 4180, near the Albergo Reale. Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'Cracken, 38, Queeu Street, Cannon Street,*E.C. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11 FRANKFORT. P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR KDMEMIAH- FAMCCY GLASS AMB €EYOTAL WAREHOUSE, P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOB, Manufacturer of Bohemias Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of ORNAMENTAL OUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in so high a degree during a considerable number of years, P. A. Tacchi's Successor has a Branch Establishment during the Summer Season at WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, No. 1, OPPOSITE THE THEATRE, Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest Articles from his Frankfort Establishment. Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show Booms of Mr. P. A. Tacchi's Successor. His Correspondent in England, to whom he undertakes to forward Purchases made of him, is Mr. LOUIS HENLE, 3, Budge Row, Cannon Street, London, E.C« J 2 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CHARLES CARR & CO., 14, BISHOPSGATE STREET WITHIN, LONDON, E.O., COMMISSION MERCHANTS, General Agents for the Eeception and Shipment of Goods from and to all Parts of the World, AND WINE MERCHANTS. pHAELES CAER & CO. have the honour to inform VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT, that they receive and pass through the Custom House in London, Liverpool, Southampton, &c, WOBKS of Art, BAGGAGE, and PBQFEBTY of EVEEY DESCBLPTION which are attended to on Arrival under their Personal Superintendence, with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, AKD AT [very Moderate Charges, regulated according to the value of the Packages, and the care and attention required. Keys of all locked Packages should he sent to C. C. & Co., as everything must be examined on arrival, although not liable to duty. CHARLES CAKE & CO. also undertake the FOEWAEDDTG OF PACKAGES OP EVEEY EDTD, which can be sent to the care of their Correspondents, to remain, if required, until applied for by the owners ; also TEE EXECUTION of OKDEES for the PTJECHASE of GOODS, of all kinds, which from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they are enabled to buy en the most advantageous terms. Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering anything they may require from London. INSURANCES EFFECTED, AND AGENCY BUSINESS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION ATTENDED TO. Packages Warehoused at Moderate Rates op Rent. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13 CHA.S. CARR & At Aix-la^vhapelle .... CO. s principal Correspondents are — - Messrs. A. SOUHEUR and CO. „ Antwerp Mr. LOUIS SCHELL. „ Basle Mr. J. WILD, 12,Steinenthorstrasse. „ Berlin Mr. J. A. FISCHER. Agent to the Court. „ Bologna Messrs. ANTONIO MAZZETTI and CO. ' w Bordeaux Messrs. ALBEECHT and FILS. u Boulogne Messrs. L. BRANLY and CO, 81, Rue Napoleon. „ Brussels '. Messrs. P. DE WORST and CO., 2, Qua! a la HouiUe. „ Calais ....... Messrs. L. J. VOGUE and CO. t „ Cologne ; Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and CO. „ Constantinople .... Mr. Ht. LAMB. ,» Dresden Mr. B.WEIGAND. , Messrs. SCHEFFLER, SIEO, & CO. „ Florence Messrs. HASKARD and SON. „ Frankfort ..... Mr. MARTIN BEC1CER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. „ Geneva Messrs. JQLIMAY and CO. Mr. Phb. STRASSE. „ Genoa Messrs. LAZZARONI and HOEFERLEN. Mr. J. V. BUCHLI. ,i Hamburg Messrs. HOFMKISTER, SCHEFFLER, and SIEG. „ Havre Messrs. CHR. EGLIN'and MARINO. * Interlacken Messrs. EITSCHAKD and BORKI. ,, Leipzig Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. „ Leghorn Messrs. J. THOMSON HENDERSON and CO. „ Malaga ...... Mr. GEO. HODGSON. „ Malta Messrs. ROSE and CO. „ Marseilles Messrs. GIRAUD FREEES. „ Men tone , .... Mr. J. OEENGO FILS. „ Milan Messrs. G. BONO and CO., 8, Via Agnello. „ Munich Messrs. GUTLEBEN and WE1DERT. Mr. A. BELTINGER. Messrs. FISCHER and RECHSTEINER. „ Naples Messrs. CEKULLI and CO. Mr. G. CIVALLERI. »Mce Messrs. M. and N. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur le Port.1 „ Ostend Mr. J. DUCLOS ASSANDRI. ,, Paris Messrs. J. ARTHUR and CO, 10, Rue Castiglione. Mons. GUEBON, 20, line Pierre Levee. „ Pau Mr. BERGEP.OT. „ Prague Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hiberaergasse, No. 1000. „ Rome . Mr. J. P. SHEA. 11, Piazza di Spagna. Mr. A. TOMBINI, 23, Piazza S. Lnlgl de' Francesi. „ Rotterdam . . . J . Mr. J. A. HOUWENS. Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO. ' „ Turin . . . . , . Mr. C. A. RATTI. „ Venice Messrs. FISCHER and RECHSTEINER. Mr. F=° TOLOMEI DI F=o Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse, 2 Any other houses will also forward goods to C. C. & Co., on receiving instructions to do so. Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their Packages are consigned direct to CHAS. CARR & CO., 14, Bishopsgate Street Within. PRICE LIST OF WINES IMPORTED BY CHARLES N J CO AGENTS TO GROWERS. Per dozen. Per dozen. Clarets— Medoc .... 15s. to 24s. Hock — Nierstein .... 30s. St.Estephe,Margaux,&c.30s. to 36s. Hochbtim .... 36s. to 42s. St. Julien, &c. . 42s. Other Qualities . . 48s. to 120s. Other Qualities . . . 48s. to 150s. Sparkling Hock & Moselle 42s. to 54s. Champagne 42s. to 72s. Burgundies — Bcaune . 24s. to 30s. Volnay 36s. to 42s. Sherries— Pale, Gold, &c. . 36s. to 60s. Other Qualities 48s. to 84s. Port . . • 36s. to 72s. Chablls 30S. to 54s. Fine Old Vintage Wines . 84s. to 126s. Hock— Oppenhdm . . . 21s. Marsala 26s. to30s. AND OTHER WINES. Clarets, Burgundies, Sherries, &c, by the Hogshead or Half-Hogshead at reduced Prices. ¦Detailed Price Listi may be obtained of C. CARR Mr. ANTON PQKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse, 2. will also forward goods to 0. & C. un receiving dnstructions are requested always to give particular directions that their Packages are consigned direct to OLIVIER &C0., 37, >EINSBHRY SQUARE. PRICES OF \tf ]- N E S IMPORTED BY OLIVIER AND CO., AGENTS TO GROWERS. — o — r , per doz. duty paid. Claret, Shipped by F. Beyerman, Bordeaux .- . . . . 18s.,^24s., 30s., 36s., to 120s. Burgundy ,, Dumoulln aine, 'Savlgny-sous-Beaune . 245., 28s., 36s., to 84s. Hock & InOSelle, Jodocius Freres & Co., Coblentz , .. 21s., 30s., 36s., to 120i\. „ Sparkling, „ . . 48s. to 60s. Champagne 48s. to 72s. Marsala, in Qr.CaskB, from £11 ; HMs. ±'2 1 ..... 26s. tosos. Sherries, Pale, Gold, or Brown, In Qr. Casks, £15 to £35, delivered 42s. to 60s. Claset, Burgundy, and Hock, in the Wood, At Growers' .Prices. Detoikd Price Lists may be had of 0. & Co., 37, Finsbury 18 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. ZURICH. HOTEL DE L'EPEE AU LAC. In the midst of the Town, at the Wein Square on the Lake. High roamed and well aired House. A magnificent View from the Terrace over the Alps and Lake, especially upon the Mountain of Zurich, and from the Glacier Glarnish to the Titlis. DINNER AT EVERY HOUR. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. MILAN. HOTEL POZZO. Excellent Second-Class Hotel, well situated near the Cathe dral ; with ample and excellent accommodation ; is especially recommended for its cleanliness and moderate charges. The Proprietor, who has been some time in England, will pay the greatest attention to Visitors and Families. The Omnibus of the "Hote.1 awaits each train. Aberdeen Polished Granite Monuments, PROM £5. Letter Cutting Accurate and Beautiful. Best Quality Granite and Marble Work of all kinds. Iron Railings and Tomb Furnishings fitted complete. Plans, Prices, and Carriage-free Terms to all parts ofthe World, from LEGGE, SCULPTOR. ABBRDEEIT, SdOTLAHD. MAYENCE. HOTEL D'A.IVGKL.ETERJRE. , HENRY SFECHT, Wine merchant and Grower. This first-rate and excellent Hotel (combining every English comfort), situated in front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the Railway Stations. From its Balconies and Rooms are Picturesque Views of the Rhine and Mountains. Galignani, Times, and Illustrated News taken in. The Table-d'Hote is renowned for its excellence, and for its Genuine Rhenish Wines and Sparkling Hock, which Mr. Specht exports to England at Wholesale Prices. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19 * G EN EVAT F. GRIVAZ, Man.-ufactwrlii.gr Je~wellers No. 10, GRAND QTJAI. Only Proprietor of the celebrated Grotto de Topazes discovered in August, 1868, in the Mountains du Galanstqck, Canton d'Uri. An immense choice of Jewels ia the first taste will be found here, and all the Oriental Stones mounted and unmounted. This house was founded in 1837, and is highly recommended by the numerous travellers who have visited it. CARY'S IMPROVES POCKET TOURIST'S TELESCOPE. (£« * Murray's Handbook.') Makufacturer of all descriptions of Mathematical, Surveying, and Optical Instruments, lor the use of Naval and Military Officers, j&c. Also the new Binocular Reconnoitring Field Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness and durability, so highly spoken of by officers and other gentlemen: from 11. 7s.; ordinary metal from 21. 10s. Gary's improved Achro matic Microscope, with two sets of choice lenses, capable of defining the severe test objects; from 21. 15s. Travelling Spectacles of all kinds. Mathematical and Optical Instrument Maker by special appointment to the War Office, Admiralty, Trinity House, Royal Military College, Sandhurst, Royal Geographical Society, .Christ's Hospital, Trinity House, King's College, &c. ; and Optician to the Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital. GOULD & PORTER, Successors to CARY, 131, STRAND, LONDON. Established upwards of a Century. G E NEVA" GRAND HOTEL DE LA POSTE. (Near the Post-Office.) Kept by G. HELLER. THIS Hotel is situated on the Quay; it offers to Families and single Tourists every comfort, great cleanliness, and first-rato accommodation at the most moderate prices: it contains 100 Bed-rooms, from 1 fr. 50 c. uiid upwards. Breakfast 1 fr. 25 c; Dinner, with Wine included, 3 frs. and 3 frs. 50 c. Service £ franc. Conversation Room, with Library. Eighteen different Newspapers. Smoking-room and Baths. Omnibus at the Station. Not to be confounded with Hotel Ancienni Poste, Rue du Rhone. FRANKFORT O. M. MR. C. A. LGHR. PROPRIETOR OP THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, Begs to recommend his House to English Travellers. THIS large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, and a new splendid Dining-room. The " Roman Emperor" is often honoured by Royal Families and other high personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel — H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURTEMBERG. H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. HXH. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &C.-&C. &c. Table-d'h6te at 1, lfl. 30kr. Breakfast, 42kr. „ E, 2fl. Tea, &2kr. Bed Rooms, from lfl. to 3fl. C 2 20 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, W. J. ADAMS, 59, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.C. Regulations gratis for obtaining Foreign Office Passports. COUNTRY or LONDON Eesidents, by forwarding a Banker's Application, or Certificate of .Identity, .can have a PASSPORT obtained. By this arrangement, the trouble of a personal attendance is unnecessary. Fee obtaining Passport, la. Gd. ; Visaa, i». each. Passports care/fatty Mounted and Cased, and Names lettered thereon in Gold. Passport Cases from Is. 6d. to 5s. 6d\ each. THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. BRADSHAW'S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDBOOKS to France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, Tyrol, Paris, Turkey, Syria, and Palestine (2 vols). Tourist's Handbook to Great Britain, &c. Baedeker's Handbooks, Ball's Alpine Guides, Pack's Pyrenees. Bbajdshaw's Complete Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. Is. each. Bbadshaw's Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 6s. Bbadshaw's Handbooks to Bombay, Madras, and Bengal, 10s. each. Kellar's, Lettthold's, and Zieglee's Maps of Switzerland. Math's Map op the Tthol. Knapsacks, Rugs, Waterproof Coats, Door-fasteners, Handbags, Portmanteaus, Straps, Soap Compasses, Drinking Cups, Conner Bags, Glycerine, &c. Harper & Applkton's Handbook to Europe and the East Black's Guides to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. O'Shea's Spain and Portugal. Phrase Books end Dictionaries. Experienced Couriers engaged upon application. GENEVA HOTEL DES BEKGUES. FREDERICK "WACHTER, Proprietor. PATEONIZED by His Eoyal Highness the Prince of Wales, *nd His Boyal Highness the Prince Alfred. The Hotel, one of the largest in Geneva, is in a delightful situation — near the 'English Chnrch and the General Kail way Station, and it is the ONLY Hotel from which there is an uninterrupted view of Mont Blanc and the Alps. Families, or Single- Gentlemen, will find every accommodation and comfort which a first-class. Hotel can afford. — There are Tables d'H&teat 1, 5, and 8 o'clock. Private Dinners at any time. Bath Establishment lately organized in the Hotel. GEN EVA. L. TISSOT and CO,, Watch Manufacturers, 19, BUE DU BE ONE, GENEVA. Chronometers and Watches of High Accuracy. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 Stanford's Foreign Office Passport Agency, 6 & 7, CHARING CROSS, LONDON, S.W. Passports (which are good for life) mounted on Muslin or Silk, ia Roan, Morocco, or Russia Case, with the name of the Owner lettered on the outside, thus preventing Injury or loss, as well as lessening the delay in examination abroad. For further particulars, Including the Forms of Application,. Cost ot Passport, Visas, &c see Stanford's Passport Circular, which will be forwarded per post on receipt of One Stamp. Gratis on application, or free per post for One Stamp, STANFORD'S TOURIST'S CATALOGUE, Containing Title, Price, *c of the Best Gums Books, Maps, Cosvkbsatiow Books, Dictioh- artes, &c., published in the United Kingdom, the Continent, and America, and kept con stantly in stock by Edwabd Stanford. Lokdoh: EDWARD STANFORD, 6 & 7, Chasing Ceoss, S.W., Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiralty Charts. GENE V E. GRAND HdTElTBEAU RIVAGE. First-class Hotel, with, a new addition, a large Garden and Terrace. It is one of the largest Establishments in the town ; it contains 200 Bed-rooms and Saloons. Splendid view of the Lake Leman, and Mont Blanc. MATES, and KUNZ, Proprietors. GENEVE. PENSION PERRET, 13, RUE LEVRIER. First-class , Family Boarding House, very handsomely fur nished, divided into Apartments suitable for Families of from three to ten persons. Excellent Cuisine ; view of the Lake ; near the English Church, Steamboat Landings, and Eailway Station. 22 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, THE CONTINENT. COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OP DIFFERENT NATIONS. Society of Couriers and Travelling Servants. Established 16 Years. Patronised by the Eoyal Family, Nobility, and Gentry. 12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES'S. THIS Society is composed of Members of different Nations, all of well-established reputation, great experience, efficiency, and respectability. Couriers suitable for any country can be obtained. Italians, Germans, Swiss, French, and Men of other Nations, compose this Society; some of whom, besides the usually required languages, speak Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Turkish, and Arabic, — in- fact, every Continental and European language. Travellers for any part can immediately meet with Couriers and Travelling Servants on application to the Secretary. COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATION^ 12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES'S. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 BONN. THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL. THIS first-rate and unrivalled Hotel, patronized by the English Royal Family, Nobility, and Gentry, is the nearest Hotel to the Railway Station, and to the Landing- places of the Rhine Steamers. The Proprietor, Mr. J. SCHMITZ, begs leave to recommend • his Hotel to Tourists. The Apartments are comfortably furnished and carpeted in the .best style, and the charges are moderate. Arrangements for the "Winter may be made, on the most moderate terms. DIJON. HOTEL DU JURA. Mr. DAVID, Proprietor. THIS Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is a first-class house, and the nearest to the Railway Station. Contains five Salons, sixty Bed-rooms en suite for Families, Drawing-room, Smoking-room, Table-d'hote ; Private Service. Carriages for Drives; Omnibus to all the trains. French, English, and German Papers. English and German spoken. Bureau de Change in the Hotel, where English Bank Notes can be exchanged. A first-rate cellar of the finest Burgundy "Wines. There is a Church of England Service in the Hotel. Yisitors taken en pension, at reduced Pr.xes from the 18th November to 15th May. ¦24 MURRAY'S' HANDBOOK1 ADVERTISER. May, MENTONE. HOTEL DE LA MEDITERRANEE. CHANGE. QF PROPETETOR. THISisi a First-class Hotel,, wdth a> charming position- near the Public Garden-, Promenades, and. the English Church. Thers is a view of the Sea without hearingthe noise ofthe waves. The Hotel has been entirely renewed and newly furnished. Pension at moderate prices. Omnibus to the- Station. GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES. B. A. BKEM&ND, MANUFACTURER, Prize Medal, Paris Exhibition, 1867. WHOLESALE. RETAIL. EXPORTATION. 7, RUE PRADIER,, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND. \ GENE V A. HOTEL I>E J^JL COXJXtOIVIVE. Peopeibtoe, Mr. F. BATJR. THIS ESTABLISHMENT, of the first Rank, completely newly furnished* throughout, situated in front of. the magnificent Pout: da Mont Blanc, the. National Monument, the Sleam-boat landing, and. the English -Garden, enjoys a most extended view of Iiac Reman amd? Mont Blano. Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen. Active attendance, good cuisine and cellar. English and American newspapers. Tables-d'HSte 3 times a day.. Omnibus fromi the Hotel, to every Train, FLjORENCE. BEIZZI AND NIC CO LAI'S Musical Ess+fi/hlisliment. PIANOFORTES, OF~THE~BEST MAKERS, FOB SALE AND ON HIRE. GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. Italian, and- Foreign Music. Musical Lending bibraryi PIAZZA MADONNA, I BRANCH. H0USE fMnsic DkpOi) PALAZZO ALDOBRANDINI. 12, THt CERRETaNL 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 MU DIE'S SELECT LIBRARY. BOOKS. POR ALL READERS. RUST-CLASS SUBSCRIPTION FOR A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST BOOKS, One Griaixijea per ^.xxxLixm., COMMENCING AT ANY DATE. 1 BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. CHEAP BOOKS.— NOTICE. TWENTY THOUSAND VOLUMES OP BOOKS IN ORNAMENTAL BINffiWC FOR PRESENTS. CONSISTING* CBUSM.Y OF WORKS OF THB'HEStE AUTHORS, AND MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUMES of Surplus Copies of other' Popular Boots of the Past Season, ARE NOW ON SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES. Catalogues postage free, on Application. KLUME'S SELECT LIBRARY, Sew Oxford Street, London. CITY OFFICE— 44 King Street, Cheapside. ANTWERP. HOTEL ST. ANTOINE, PLACE V/ERTE, CKPPQSITE THE GATHEDR&L. HTHIS Excellent first-class: Hotel, which enjoys? the weltmerited. favour of. Families and Tourists, has been repurchased by its old and well-known Proprietor, Mr. Sohhitt- Spahnhoven ; who, with his Partner, will do.' everything in their power to- render the visit of all persona who may honour them with their patronage as agreeable and comfortable as possible. Baths in the Hotel. 26 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, By Appointment to H.R.H. The Prince of Wales. ALLEN S PORTMANTEAUS 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. New Illustrated Catalogues of Registered and Patented Articles for 1872 Post Free. ALIENS 'PATENT.) BAC I ALLEN'S PATENT BAG. ALLEN'S PATENT DESPATCH-BOX DESK. ALLEN'S PATENT Quadruple Portmanteau. ALLEN'S SOLID LEATHER, DRESSING-CASE. ALLEN'S EXPANDING PORTMANTEAU. ALLEN'S 10 GUINEA SILVER DRESSING BAG. ALLEN'S NEW DRESSING BAG. ALLEN'S SOLID MAHOGANY DRESSING-CASE. LADY'S WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU. . Allen's Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for Officers joining, Post Free. PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 27 * IRELAND. AJVTRIM -AJRMS HOTEL, PORTBUSH. THIS Hotel is heautifully situated, having an uninterrupted view of the Atlantic! Ocean, the Giant's Causeway, the Skebries, and Lough Fotle. It contains upwards of 100 Apartments, Principally facing the Sea. A NOBLE COFFEE-ROOM, with Drawing-Boom attached, equally available for Ladles and Gentlemen. Table-d'H6te daily during the Season. Cuisine and Wines First-Class. Terms moderate. French spoken. Billiard and Siuoking Rooms. THE SEA BATHS, Recently rebuilt on the Hotel Grounds, by Mr. Brown, will be found to contain every modern Improvement. Separate Apartments for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot, Cold, Shower, and Douche Baths. The Superintendents in each Department being people of experience, visitors to the Baths may depend on every attention. Extensive Posting and Livery Establishment in connection with the Hotel. A Vehicle to tho Giant's Causeway and back daily during the Season. Visitors to Ike Hotel are respectfully requested to be particular in inquiring for the ANTRIM ARMS HOTEL Omnibus. It attends all Steamers and Trains, for the conveyance of Passengers to the Hotel free. J. BKOWN, Proprietor. Portrush is the nearest Railway Station to the Giant's Causeway. London and South-Western Railway. LONDON STATION, WATERLOO BRIDGE. The Cheap and Picturesque Route to PARIS, HAVRE, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN, Via SOUTHAMPTON and HA VRE. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, the last Train from London at 9 p.m. for the Southampton Docks, alongside the Steamer. Fares throughout (London and Paris)— First Class, 31/0; Second Class, 22/9. Return Tickets (available for one month)— First Class, 51/8 ; Second Class, 37/2. JERSEY, GUERNSEY, AND ST, MALO, DAILY MAIL SERVICE, Vid SOUTHAMPTON— The favourite Route. Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey)— 33/0 First ; 23/0 Second Class, Every Weekday. Return Tickets (available for One Month)— 43/ O First ; or 38/0 Second Class. ' The Last Train from London in time for the Steamers leaves at 9 p.m. (except on Saturdays, on which day the Last Train is at 5.15 p m„ for Jersey only) for tfie Southampton Docks, alongside the Steamer. DIRECT SERT1CE TO ST. MALO: Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday according to Tide; DIRECT SERVICE TO CHERBOURG. Every Monday and Thursday, leaving Waterloo Station at 8-5 a.m. For further information apply to Mr. Bennett, 3, Place Vend6me, Paris. — Mr. Langstaff, 47, Grand Quai, Havre. — Mr. Enault, Honfleur. — Mr, E. D. Le Couteur, Jersey. — Mr. Spencer, Guernsey.— Captain Gaudln, St. Malo. — Messrs. Mahieu, Cherbourg.-^— -Or to Mr. E. K. Corke. Steam Packet Superintendent. Southampton. 28 MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, DRESDEN. HOTEL BELLEYUE, DRESDEN. Kept by Mr. EMIL KAYSEK. rTMIIS fine large Establishment, situated on the banks of the Elbe, between the •*- two beautiful bridges, facing the Theatre; Museum, and' Catholic Cathedral, adjoining the Briihl's Terrace, and opposite the Royal Palace and Green Vaults, contains One Hundred Front Rboms. These apaitments combine elegance and comfort, and most of them fronting either the Theatre Square, or public walks and gardens of the Hotel, and. command fine views of the River, Bridges-, and distant Mountains. The Gardens of the Hotel afford its guests an agreeable and private Promenade. Table d'Hote at one and five o'clock. Private Dinners at any hour. To families or single persons desirous of taking, apartments for the winter, very advantageous arrangements will be offered, and every effort made to render their residence in the Hotel pleasant and comfortable.. Carriages, Baths, Riding. Billiard' and' Smoking Rooms. Ladies' Parlour. GENEVE, GRAND QUAI 26. REYHNT^TTD England at the same Prices at which they are published in Germany or France. WILLIAMS & .NORGATE have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock : — t CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 2. THEOLOGICAL CATA LOGUE. 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. 5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC CATALOGUE. 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi- tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. ANT CATALOGUE SENT FOST-iFHEE TOR ONE STAJH>. WILLIAMS & NOEGATB, Importers vft foreign Books, 14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh. BADEN-BADEN. 10. NATURAL HISTORT CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo tany, Geology, Chemistry, 'Mathe matics, &c. 11. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen dent Sciences. 12. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele mentary Books, Maps, &c. 13. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU LARS. New Books, and New Purchases. 14. .SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU LARS. New Books and Recent Purchases. Grand Hotel and Pension Belle Vue, (AllSe de Lichtenthal, close to the English Church). Splendid situation, surrounded by large Heasrure Grounds. This Establishment is fitted up with every comfort and luxury. Bestanrant Table d'hSte at 1 and 6 o'clock. Reading Boom. Carriage at the Hotel. Stabling and Coach-house. C. SILBERRAD, Proprietor. VIENNA. THE EMPRESS ELISABETH HOTEL (KAISEBIN ELISABETH). JOHANN HEUG-L, Proprietor. This Hotel is situated in the centre of the Austrian capital, near St. Stephen's Square, and much frequented by 'English and American families for many years past ; has been entirely and .thoroughly repaired, and all its apartments newly and elegantly furnished by its new Proprietor. Handsome Dining-rooms and Dining- hall, with Garden, Reading and Smoking-rooms, have been added. English, American^ and French Papers on file. Private Dinners a la carte at all hours of the day. English Waiters and Commissioners in attendance. Charges moderate. Cuisine superior. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 m NEUCHATEL, SUISSE. GRAND Hi)TEL~DU MONT BLANC, Kept by Messrs. BA1TMCEKT and EOSEE. THIS splendid Establishment, the largest, most important, and newest in Neuchatel, enjoys a fine view of the Lake and the Mountains, and is surrounded by a garden. It contains a magnificent Salle a Manger, Restaurant, Billiard and Smoking Room, a beautifully decorated Conversation and Reading Room, supplied with the best Newspapers. Baths at the Hotel. The Landlords, who have been for many years at the head of several of the best Continental Hotels, such as Bauer au Sac, Zurich; Grand Hotel, Vevev; Grand Hotel, Nice, will spare no pains to make the Visitors as comfortable as possible. V E V E Y. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. FIKST-CLASS HOUSE, newly Ee-organized, situated on the banks of the Lake of Geneva, in front of the new Steam boat Landing-place. Table d'Hote. Eestaurant a la Carte. Board during the Winter. Bath at the HoteL Omnibus of the Hotel at the Eailway Station. C. HAACK. V E V E Y. GRAND HOTEL DU LAO. EDOUAED DELAJOUX, Peophietob. IDLEST-CLASS HOTEL, entirely new, close to the Lake, -*- and splendid view. SPLENDID SALON and DINING ROOM. Close to the Steam-hoat Landing. GEN EVA. C. E. FLEISCHMANN & Co., FABBICANTS D'HOELOGERIE, GENEVE: 2, GBAND QUAI. CORRESPONDENTS : NEW YORK, LONDON, PARIS, AKD ST. PETERSBOURG. 34 MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GENEVA. HOTEL "VICTORIA RUE DE MONT BLANC. Near the English Church, the Railway Station, and the Steam-boat Landings. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. MALSCH BEETHOUD, Pbopbietob. Salon Smoking Room, and Baths, in the Hotel. GENEVA. A MOUNTAIN RESIDENCE, MONT SALEVE One and a-half hour from Geneve, 3300 ft. above the level of the sea. MOUNETIEB HOTEL DE LA RECONNAFSSANCE, Kept b* PEBEEABD-FAUBAX. OMNIBUSES TO GENEVE TWICE A DAY. LAUSANNE. hOtel gibbon. Mb. EITTEB, Pbopbietob. ICIEST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the finest part of the Tovra, is in every respect very highly recommended. Splendid View over the Lake in all its extent. Large Terrace and Garden attached to the Hotel. PENSION DURING THE WINTER. LAUSANNE. HOTEL RICHE-MONT, Kept by FEITZ EITTEE. HPHIS Hotel is of the first order, worthy of the highest recom- -*¦ mendations, and in a situation of surpassing beauty. It is surrounded by Gardens and Promenades, and offers to Travellers a highly desirable , place of residence, or of temporary sojourn. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 Important to the Travelling Public. PARGEL3 TO AND FROM THE CONTINENT. THE CONTINENTAL DAILY PARCELS EXP1ESS, Known on the Continent as "L'Agence Oontinentale," (ESTABLISHED 1849), SOLE Agency for England of the Belgian Government Railway, the Imperial German Post, and Correspondent of the Northern of France Railway, conveys by Mail Steam Packets, Every Night (Sunday excepted), via Dover, Calais, and Ostend, and rapidly by Rail and Post to destina tion, Parcels and Packages of all kinds, between England and all parts of the Continent, at Through Rates which are very moderate, and include all charges, except Duties and Entries, are to be had gratia on application. Parcels should be booked as follows : — HOMEWARD.— From the Continent. In all Germany. At any Post-office of the Imperial German Post, or of the Countries in connection therewith, viz., Austria, Switzerland, Russia, Denmark, &c. Belgium, At any of the State Railway Stations, at the Office of the Agent in Brussels, A. Ceoot, 90 bis, Montagne de la Cour ; or they can be sent direct to Mr. De Riddek, 54, Rue St. Joseph, Ostend. Holland. In the principal towns, Van Gend and Loos. France. Paris, G. Pritchard, 4, Rue Rossini. To whose care also, parcels for conveyance to England can be despatched, from towns beyond Paris, with advice by Post. Also at the Gard dot Nord, P. Bmeault. OUTWARD.-To the Continent. Ia London. At Chief Office, 53, Gracechurch Street, City (D. N. Bjudge, Manager, to whom all communications should be addressed), or at the Spread Eagle Universal Office, 34, Regent Circus. In Country Towns. At the Agency in Liverpool, Manchester, Sheffield, Hull, Birmingham, Leeds, Glasgow, Dublin, Bradford, Nottingham, South ampton, Dover, and Folkestone, as stated in Books of Rates, which can be had gratis on application to Chief Office. In other Towns, where no Agent may be appointed, parcels should be sent under cover by Railway, to D. N. Bridge, at above , address, with advice of contents and value by Post. N.B. — Persons wishing to send or to obtain goods of any kind from Belgium, can do so through this Express, " Contre Remboursement," i.e., Payment of the Amount of Invoice on delivery of the Parcel. fsLoitDON: Chief Office, 53, Gbacechubch Street, May, 1872. d 2 36 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FLORENCE. HOTEL DE ROME, 8, Piazza Maria Novella, 8. Apartments and Airy Cliambers at moderate Prices. Omnibuses to serve the Visitors. MHENKEL is well aware of the wants of English Visitors, having bad formerly the . management of a large Hotel in London. He has also to let a well-furnished and beautifully-situated Villa, with Bath-rooms, Garden, Stable, and every comfort 'for English Visitors wishing to stay near Florence during eome months of the 'year; FKEIBTJRG in Bresgau, Duchy of Baden. ' HOTEL SOMMER, Zahringer Hof. Xewly built, opposite the Station ; finest view of the Black Forest and the Vosges ; most comfortable and best house there. Baths in the Hotel. Proprietor, Mr. G. H. SOMMER. LUCHON (BAGNERES DE), PYRENEES. Grand Hotel Bonne-Maison et de Londres, Mr. VIDAL, Jim., Proprietor. SITUATED opposite the Thermal Establishment or Bath-rooms. This favourite and first-rate Hotel affords extensive accommodation of the best description for a large number of visitors. It is delightfully situated, and will be found most comfortable for Families or, Gentlemen. The house has been entirely re decorated throughout. BOLOGNA. HOTEL BRUN OR SUISSE, Me. W. WELLEE, Proprietor. rpHE high reputation which this Hotel enjoys among the travelling public, and more especially English and' American Families, is the strongest assurance of its superior arrangement and comfort. Eooms from 2 J francs upwards. Table d'Hote, 4 francs. Beading Eoom, Smoking Boom. Billiard Boom and elegant Dining Eoom. Private Carriages to be obtained from the Hotel. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 37 BADEN-BADEN VICTORIA HOTEL. Proprietor, Mr. JSANZ GROSHOLZ. THIS is one of the finest built and best furnished First-class Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kursaal and Theatre ; it commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to be one of the best Hotels in Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals. BRISTOL. ROYAL H0TEL,"C0LLEGE GREEN. FIEST -CLASS. Central, and pleasantly situated. Very spacious Coffee, Dining, Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Private Apartments en suite. One Hundred and Twenty Bed-rooms. Steam Lift and Laundry. Hot and 'Cold Baths. Telegraph Office and Post-office in the Hotel. Fixed Charges. All Omnibuses pass the door. Night Porter kept. W. SWANSON", Manager. STRESA. (Lake Maggiore.) (The most beautiful Summer Residence.) HOTEL ET PENSION DES ILES BQRROMEES. AFIEST-CLASS Hotel, situated on the most charming point of the borders of the Lake. From its magnificent position, shaded from the sun during the greater part of the day, it enjoys a very mild temperature in all seasons, and freshness even during the great heats of summer. A large Garden and Baths. Bureau of the Swiss Post Office and Telegraph Office in the Hotel. The English Church is held in the Hotel. CANTON DE ST. GALL. RAGATZ LES BAINS. HOTEL TAMINA. Very Comfortable, and Moderate Charges. COMMUNICATION FROM THE HOTEL TO THE BATHS. 38 ( MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GEN EVA. CH. MARTIN AND CO., Watch and Chronometer Makers, 16, GEAND QTTAI, 16. Chronometers, Repeaters, &c, winding up with, or without a Key. Chains of all Descriptions. Correspondents in the principal cities of Europe and America. CHRISTIANIA. (Norway.) HOTEL SCAND1NAVIE. THIS beautifully situated Hotel is well known by the English Nobility for its Cleanliness, Good Attendance, and Moderate Prices. CHR. AUG. SMITH, Proprietor. EGYPT. ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. §g Spratd g^orotmrat to *^S^ "§•%$> % $*»"* »f SHalrs, anir f.f . t\t ^Slr JftfctlHtfrt of %gpi. DAYID ROBERTSON & CO., English Booksellers, Stationers, Photograph Vendors, and General Commission Agents, 10, Grand Square, Alexandria, and The Ezbekieh, Cairo. ¦ 01 A Register of Enghsh and American Travellers is heft at the above Establishment. A very extensive Stock of Photographs of Egypt and Syria liept on hand ; and Visitors wiU receive any assistance or information they may require. English and Indian Newspapers by every Mail. TAUCHNITZ EDITIONS. Passages secured. Baggage collected and forwarded. Letters received and posted to all countries, DAVID EOBEETSON AND CO., ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. »9 jp- _ LUCERNE. HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors. THIS IABfiEBI HOTEL IN SWITZEKLAND. Best Situation on the Quay, with splendid view of the cele brated panorama of the Lake and Mountains. rFHE high' reputation which this establishment enjoys among Travellers, and especially English and American families, is the best and strongest assurance or" ito superior arrangement and comfort. Its new immense Dining-Room, with adjoining Garden-Salon, and large Parlour, attract tlie attention of every Visitor. Seduced Prices (Pension) are made for longer visits in tha early and later parts of the Season. BERLIN. HOTEL D'ANGHjETERRE, 2, PLACE AN DEE BAT/ACADEIOE, 2. SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART Or THE TOWN, Near to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. Single travellers and large families can be accommodated with entire suites of Apartments, consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, Ac., all furnished and carpeted in the best English style. First-rate Table-d'Hote, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and GaKgmmi's Messenger taken in. Resideuce of Her British Majesty's Messengers. R. SIEBELIST, Proprietor. INNSBRUCK. HOTEL GOLDEN SUN.— M. Horandtner, Proprietor.— This first-clasa Hotel, situated in the finest part of the town, and only four minutes' walk from the Railway Station, enjoys a high reputation for being honoured with the patronage of travellers of all nations. The greatest care H giren to th« attendance. Large and email well-furnished Apartment** for Famines and Single Gentlemen. EogljiU spelcen. LUCERNE. SWAN HOTEL.— This Hotel, in the very best situation, enjoys a high character. Mr. HJ2FELI, the Proprietor, has made In the later years a great many improvements, and does his utmost to offer to his visitors a comfortable home. An elegant new Ladles' Drawing-room, besides a Beading-room and Smoking-room. Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. 40 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, DRESDEN. VICTORIA HOTEL, 'T'HIS fine large Establishment, situated on the public Prome- ¦*¦ nade of the English quarter, in the immediate vicinity of all the curiosities, contains One Hundred Rooms. Table d'Hote at One and Five o'clock. The Garden of the Sotel affords its guests an agreeable Promenade. CABBIAGES. READING ROOM WITH ENGLISH AND AMERICAN PAPERS. To Families or Single Persons desirous of taking Apart ments for the "Winter, advantageous arrangements will be offered. Proprietor and Manager of ihe Hotel, CABL WEISS. BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL ROY-A.L. Pbopbietoe— Mb. J. TH. KATJB. F1EST-SATE Hotel for Families and Single Gentlemen, close to the Station. Kursaal and Promenade. Table d'Hote. Private Dinner to order. English spoken by all the attendants. The utmost attention and civility. Keading-room. The Hotel is superintended by the new Proprietor, who has been 10 years in England, during which time he has travelled with Charles Dickens, Esq., the Duke of Sutherland, and other distinguished English families. — Mr. KAOB exports Wines to England. WEISBADEN. RHINE HOTEL. LARGE and splendid New I-Jouse, affording every modern convenience and improvement, opposite the Railway Station, in a fine and healthy situation, with a beautiful garden and large terrace. Excellent cooking. Careful attendance; modern le charge. Table o'HOip at 1 and 5 o'clock. Dining Saloons surrounded by gardens and green houses. Refreshment Saloon. Library. Reading-room, supplied with English, French, German, and American papers. During the winter the whole building and winter- garden are wanned, lighted, and ventilated. Large stock of choicest Rhenish and sparkling Wines (wholesale and retail). Arrangements made for the Winter season at moderate terms. GUSTAVE HERBSTER, Peopkietob. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 CJ^LUMONT (near Neuchatel, Switzerland). HDTEL and pension de chaumont, 0. EITZMANN, Pkopkietob. HIS Hotel, exceedingly well situated for an extensive view of the magnificent Panorama of the Alps and the surrounding scenery, contains large and small Apartments, Saloons, Dining-rooms, Billiard and Reading-rooms. Private Suites of .Rooms for Families. Bath-rooms. New milk and whey suppl.ied on the premises. Leading country and foreign Newspapers. Telegraph Station and Post-office here. Moderate charges. Omnibus journalier depart de Neuchatel a 9 h. du matin. HANOVER. T UlSriON HOTEL. fyHIS well-known first-class and favourite Hotel, for private -*¦ Families and Gentlemen, patronised by Her Royal Highness Piincess Mary and Duke of Cambridge, also Her Majesty the Empress of France, on her way to Wilhelmshbhe, is beautifully and cheerfully situated right opposite the Railway . Station. Elegance and comfort combined. English and French spoken. The utmost attention and civility. A regular Table d'Hote, and Private Dinner to order. Baths in the house. Private Carriages always ready. English and French News papers. The Hotel is open all .night. The new Proprietor, Mr. F. Volkehs, has Just opened a very fine Coffee Eoom and a beautiful Refreshment-room, attached to the Hotel. Pension 6 frs. a day, everything included. WILDBAD. H6tel Klumpp, formerly Hotel de l'Ours, Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. THIS First-class Hotel, containing 38 Salons and 170 Bed-rooms, a separate Breakfast, a very extensive and elegant Dining-room, new Reading and Conversation as well as Smoking Salons, with an artificial Garden over the river, is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and cellar, and deserves Its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. Table-d'hote at Ons and Five o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. New Billiard Table. EXCHANGE OFFICE. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibus of the Hotel to and from each Train. Elegant private carriages, when required. 42 • MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, WIESBADEN. FOUR SEASOMS HOTEL & BATHS. PBOPBIETOB, DB. ZAIS. THIS First-Class Establishment, equal to any on the -*- Rhine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Square, ¦opposite the Kursaal, tho Theatre, the Promenades; close to the Boiling Spring; and the new English Chapel. This Hotel is the largest in the place, containing a great choice of SPLENDID AND OOMTOETABLE APAITMENTS, for Families and Single Travellers ; exquisite Cuisine and first-class Wines, ¦combined with attentive service and moderate charges. TABLE D'HOTE at 1 and 5 p.m., and PEIVATE DDTNEES. The Bathing Establishment is ihe best in the Place. LUCERNE. HOTEL BEAU EIVAGE. Proprietor— Mk. ED. STRUB. FIEST-CLASS HOTEL. Magnificent and unique position on the borders of the Lake. Beautil ul ornamental grounds. Boats for ex cursions on the Lake. Public Drawing-room. Smoking-room. Apartments, for Families. Warm Baths, and bathing in tlie Lake. Newspapers of different countries. Cuisine excellent. Oood attendance. Moderate prices. Arrangements made for a long stay. In Spring and Autumn price of board and lodging 7 francs per day. PEAM-JEFOET-OUr-MAIK-. UNION HOTEL (formerly Weidenbusch).— A First-class Hotel for Families ^ and Single Gentlemen, si tuateii in the richest quarter of the town, near the Statuaus, heatre. BathB, Reading and Smoking Boom. ngements by the Week or Month. BETJNO STETJBELL, Proprietor. the Promenade, Museum, Post-office, and Theatre. BathB, Reading and Smoking Room. Moderate Charges. Arrangements by the Week or Month. Just Published. Price One Franc. WHAT A CONSUMPTIVE PERSON SHOULD DO. By CHAELES EICKETTS, M.E.C.S., SURGEON, ROYAL ARTILLERY. May be obtained from all English Booksellers on the Continent, or from the Author, 12, Boulevard Malesherbes, Paris. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43 FLORENCE. Messrs. Anthony Sasso & Son, Artists, 4, VIA DI BOEGO OGNISSANTI, Distinguished with Medals at the Italian Exbib'tion of 1861, keep the most beautiful and . rich Private Gallery in the City of Ancient and niodern original pictures, copies of the most celebrated pictures in the Public Galleries, water-colour paintings, and beautiful ancient carved cabinets, &c, „ « ENGLISH SPOKEN. Agents and Correspondents in England anil America: — Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, London, E O. Messrs. DUNCAN, SHLRMAN, & CO., and Messrs. AUSTIN, BALD WXN„& CO., New York. NUREMBERG. HOTEL DE BAYIERE IBAYERISCHER HOP). THIS old-established, ficst-class, and best Bituated Hotel, in the centre of the town, close to the river, contains suites of apartments and single rooms, all elegantly furnished in the new style. It is patronised by the most distinguished families. English Divine Service during the season. Foreign newspapers. Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibus to and from each train. Moderate and fixed prices. HEIDELBERG. HOTEL DE LEUROPE. THIS new, magnificent, first-rate Establishment, sur rounded by private and public gardens, with a view of the Castle, and in the very best situation in Heidelberg, enjoys an European reputation. READING EOOM, With English and American Papers. Reduced prices for protruded stay, and for the Winter Season. HiEFELI-GUJER, Proprietor. So Omnibus required, being but 400 feet from the Station. 44 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VILLENEUVE. h£>t:e:l, byron, NEAB TO THB CASTLE OP CHILLON. Kew Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF. Same Proprietor as of the Hotel de I' Ecu at Geneva. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, offering eyery comfort for an agreeable residence ; surrounded by a vast Park and a beautiful Garden, and admirably situated for excursions to the mountains. Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms. Reduced prices for a prolonged stay. Horses and Carriages. Breakfast ; Table-d'Hote. Private Dinners at any hour. English spolcen. Landing place for Steamers. Telegraph Bureau. GENEVA. (SWITZERLAND.) HOTEL X>E L'ECU. New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF. Also Proprietor of Hotel Byron, near Villeneuve. rPHIS unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel has long enjoyed an a. extensive and high reputation among Travellers. Situated in the finest part of the town, and racing the lake, it commands a beautiful view of the environs. Its accommodation is of so superior a character, that touriHts will find it a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn. Table-d'HSte at 1 o'clock. 4 fr. ; at 5 o'clock, 4 ir. Arrangements made with families during the winter months at very reasonable charges. New Reading and Smoking Rooms. G EN EVA. Manufactory of Musical Boxes. » ' -^ SAMUEL TROLL FILS, WHOLESALE, RETAIL, EXPORTATION. 6, EUE BONIVARD, GROUND FLOOR, NEAR THE ENGLISH CHUBCH, GENEVA. DRESDEN. GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE. THIS well-known First-class Hotel/kept by Messrs. MAX and CHARLES DORN, has been recently enlarged and embellished. It contains 150 Front Rooms, and is situated in the centre of the town, at the New Square, in the immediate vicinity of all the curiosities. Table-d'HSte at one and four o'clock, in the splendid dming-hnll first-floor. Carnages, Reading-room, with English and American Papers, and Smoking-room. In Winter a deduction of 20 per cent, is made on everything exceDt Wine. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 45 * DIEPPE. HOTE iTr OTAL, FACING THE BEACH, Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. (THIS 1I0TEL IS OPEN ALL THE YEAR). IT IS ONE OP THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. .Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo dation, at veiy reasonable prices. Large Eeading-room, with French and English Newspapers. The Befreshments, &c, are of the best quality. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray's and other Guide Books. Table-d'Hote and Private Dinners. NUREMBERG. ~ RED HORSE HOTEL (Rothes Ross), PbOpkietoe : M. P. GALIMBERTI. Managee: M. BAUER. THIS excellent old-established Hotel, situated in one of the best quarters of the town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families making a visit to Nuremberg of some duration, and who will find every conceivable comfort and convenience. Table-d'H6te at 1 P.M., and Private Dinners at all hours. The Establishment will be found well worthy of i the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English travellers of the highest rank during many years. ZOUG. STAG HOTEL. Near the Steamboat landing-place. Beautifully situated, and the best Hotel in the town. Moderate prices. A large and elegantly fitted-up Dining Hall. Board and Residence, 5 to 6 francs per day. BRUXELLES. THE GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE, Bue Neuve, 77 and 79, is J- admirably situated close to the Boulevards and Theatres, and is the nearest Hotel to the Railway Stations. The Hotel is considerably enlarged, and has a new Dining-room which will contain 300 persons. Fixed prices :— Plain Breakfast, lit; Dinner at the Table-d'hote, 3if ; Bedrooms, 4-50 f., 5-50 f., 6 f. the first night each bed, Service and Candles included; the second night, 3-75 f., 4-75 f., and 5-25 f.; Sitting-rooms, 3 to 12£; Steaks or Cutlets, ljf- Travellers must beware of coachmen and conductors of omnibuses who endeavour to drive them to some, other hotel. 46 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, RHEINFALL. NEUHAUSEN, SCHAFFHAUSEN. HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. Pboprietob, Mb. WEGENSTEIN. THE HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF, known to English visitors as one of the best Hotels in Switzerland, has been greatly enlarged since last year, and is now a Bplendid first-rate establishment The SCHWEIZERHOF is situate opposite the celebrated Falls of the Rhine, and sur rounded by a fine park and garden. The position is unsurpassed, the eye ranging a distance or above 180 miles— a panoramic view including the whole range of the Swiss Alps and the Mont Blanc. Healthy climate. Church Service. Preserved Trout Fishing. Prices moderate. Pension. Hotel Omnibuses at Neuhausen and Schaffnausen. BARCELONA. GRAND HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. IN THE RAM3LA. Kept by Messrs. FOETIS & CO. 'J1 HIS is a first-rate Establishment, advantageously situated close to -*- the Post-offlce and the Theatre, with a southern aspect, and newly decorated. Table- d'hdte; private service; large and small apartments; many fire-places; baths; reading- rooms ; Spanish and foreign newspapers. Carriages of every description. Omnibus at the Railway Stations. Interpreters. Moderate terms. TURIN. GRAND HOTEL X>E TURIN. Opposite the Arrival Platform of the Porta Nuova Station. Branch Establishment of the Bebkkrhof at Berne and Krafts Hotel de Nice at Nice. 'JVHIS newly-erected first-class Hotel, in a central position, is entirely kept according to the Swiss principles, and combines the greatest comfort wttb moderate charges.' Closed during the Winter season. Table d'Hote at half-past 5 and 8 o'clock. REDUCED PRICES FOR A F r.OTRACTED STAY. Kept by CONSTANT KRAFT. 1S72. MUKKArS fiAJNDtfUUK Al)Vi£l&IlS£B. 47 Ml LAN. Hote?l Cavour, Place Cavour, Just opposite the Public Gardens. KEPT BY J. SUARDI AND CO. THIS first-rate Hotel ia fitted up with every modern appliance, and situated m the finest part of Milan. It commands a fine view of the Promenade near to the Station, the Grand. Theatre, the National Museum, and the Protestant Church. Excellent Table-d'hote. Charges very moderate. Baths on each floor. A Smoking and a Beading Room supplied with foreign newspapers. Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all trains. INTERLACHEN. HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, Kept by Mb. HERMANN RIMPS. EXCELLENT Second-class Hotel, very well situated, containing a 1 branch " Pension Felsenogg," ™ith a fine Garden attached. It baa been recently enlarged. and newly furnished, and contains so Beds. Boarders taken In, per day 5$ francs during the months of May, June, September, October ; and 6J. francs per day during the months of July,. and August English, French, and German Newspapers. Omnibuses; Private Carriages, and Saddle Horses. English spoken. The moderate charges of tlie Hotel Belle Yue are to be particularly noticed. .INTERLAKEN. HOTEL .AJVI> PENSION JUNGFRAU. JP. SEILEK, Proprietor. THIS Establishment, with two branch houses, is situated in the centre of the Hoheweg, and enjoys a splendid view of the Jungfrau and the entire range of the Alps. It recommends itself for its delightful position as well as for its comfortable accommodation. „_^„- Table d'Hote at 2 and 6 o'clock. Diners a la carte. Carriages, Guides, and Horses for mountain excursions. Omnibus waiting at the Landing-places* 48 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, NOTHING LIKE IRON. A FRIEND boasts of his iron constitution, and says that he is always cheerful, ' hearty, and as strong as old nails; such splendid condition of budily and meotal vigour he mainly attributes to good regular living, and the occasional use of PARR'S LIPS PILLS, which clear from the body all hurtful impurities, invigorate the feeble, restore the invalid to health, and do good in all cases. A small box, price 13£&, contains 36 pills, showing it to be the most economical family medicine. Mold by all Chemists and Medicine Vendors. May also be had at all the principal Drug Stores in the East and West Indies, South America, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, New Zealand, &c, LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. THE VALLEY OF ROOKS HOTEL. THIS favourite and beautifully situate' Hotel, "which has lately had extensive alterations, additions, and improvements, combines with moderate charges all necessary means for the accommodation and comfort of Families and Tourists. The splendid Table d'Hote and Coffee Room, Reading Rooms, ladies' Drawing Room, and several private Sitting Rooms, range in a long front overlooking the sea, and looking into' the extensive private grounds of the Hotel. Here the visitor commands uninterrupted views of the Bristol Channel, the Tors, and the Valleys of th« East and "West Lynns, and the Coast of South Wales, &c. The Hotel is also most conveniently tituate as a centre for ri-tit.ng all the places of interest in the district. Post Horses and Carriages. Coaches during the Season to Jlfracombe, Barnstaple, and the West Somerset Railway. JOHN CROOK, Proprietor. VEVAY (Switzerland). h t e l monnet, Hit des 3 Couronnes. Messrs. SCHOTT & CO., Proprietors, and Successors to Mr. Monnet. TBtIS Large and First-class Establishment, situated close to the Lake, affords superior accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. It is extensively patronised for its comfort and cleanliness. Persons remaining some time will find this a most desirable Residence ; and from October 15 to June 1 they can live here moderately en pension. EDUCATION. REV. Et. THOMSON, Graduate ofthe Liondon and Edinburgh Uni versities (Successor to Mr. Maccoll), 12, RUTLAND SQUARE, EDINBURGH, receives into his house for Board and Education, young Gentlemen, vilwse Parents mag wish to go abroad. During the past year one of Mr. Thomson's pupils has taken a Senior Optime Degree at Cambridge, and another has gained, ju open competition at the Edinburgh University, a Scholarship of Ninety Pounds, Two Medals, and Six other Prizes. Reference is kindly allowed to the following gentlemen in Edinburgh, whose son* have been entrusted to Mr. 'I honidon's care : — Andrew Rutherford Clark, Esq.. LL.D., Q.C., Solicitor-General fot Scotland. The Right Hon. Sir William Gibsox Craig, Bart., of Kiccarton. Professor Krllakd, 20, Clarendon Crescent. Arthur Mitchell, Esq., M.D., Commissioner in Lunacy, 5, East Clarcmont Street. ] 1872. M0RRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 49 " A most delicious and valuable article."— Standard. poyq CARACAS COCOA | || | \Jf Prepared with Caracas and other choice growths of Cocoa. " It is the very finest Cocoa ever offered to the public"— court circular. Extract of Cocoa The Fare Cocoa Nib deprived of the superfluous oil. Of great value to invalids and others obliged to avoid rich articles of diet. FRY'S FRY'S Cocoa Paste and Milk Prepared with Pure Condensed Milk. Only requires to lie mixed with boiling water to produce » d»uoious cup of cocoa- Travellers will find any of these articles of great value. J. S. FRY & SONS, BRISTOL & LONDON. GENOA. HOTEL DES QUATEE NATIONS. EMANUELE CEVASCO, Proprietor. THIS Hotel, which, has just ,been renewed and embellished, can be strongly recommended: it is ia one of the best situations in Genoa, and travellers will find there very good rooms, moderate charges, cleanliness,, excellent Table-d'hSte, as well as private service,, combined with great attention and civility j the comfort of visitors being con sulted in every way. English spoken Iff tht Ptpprietor. 50 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mayj , ; ¦, FRANKFORT O. M. PEIEMICH BOHLEB, ZEIL, No. 54, NEXT DOOR TO THE POST OFFICE. PRIZE MEDAL, LONDON. 1862. CARVED STAGHORN AND IVORY ORNAMENTS, CAEVED WOOD WOEK (Vieuxchene) Furniture & Fancy Objects, Clocks', Jump, gamgea, tffeitm, iateg &ttxtlts sA stag gtstripfimt. SPECIALITIES OF GERMAN ARTICLES Vienna Bronzes, Marquetry, Leather and Meerschaum Goods, Travelling Articles, Toilette Eequisites, etc., etc. SUPERIOR COPIES OF THE ARIADNE BY DANNICKER. Genuine Eau de Cologne of Jean Marie Farina, opposite the Jiilichsplatz, FIXED FBICES. The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and B. McCbacken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51 TIES IE NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK of ENGLAND. ESTABLISHED IS THE YEAR 1833. Head Office— BISHOPSGATE STREET, corner of THREADNEEDLE STREET. St. James' Branch— 14, WATERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL. St. Marylebone „ 28, BAKER STREET. Islington „ 173, UPPER STREET. Capital. SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL PAID-UP CAPITAL BESERVE FUND No. of SHAREHOLDERS ..£2,550,000 0 0 .. 1,260,000 0 0 501,840 8 5 ffluxrtortf. Eight Hon. Lord Ernest Augustus Charles Brudenell Bruce, M.P., (7, St. George's Place, Hyde Park Corner, S.W. John Oliver Hanson, Esq., 4, Dorset Square, NVW. John Kingston, Esq., 6, Crosby Square, E.C. Henry Paull, Esq., 33, Devonshire Place. Portland Place, W. John Stetvart, Esq., 26, Throgmorton St., E.C. Sir Jakes Siebald David Scott, Bart., 18, Cornwall Gardens, W. Richard Blanet Wade, Esq., 13, Seymour Street, Portman Square, W. Hon. Eliot Thomas Yorke, 15, 'Park Street, Grosvenor Square, W. Duncan Macdonald, Esq., Weybauk Lodge, Guildford, Surrey, and Belgrave Mansions, Grosvenor Gardens, S.W. George Hakburt Field, Esq., 67, Eccleston Square, S.W. Alex.JRobertsos, Esq., 20, Grafton Street, Berkeley Square, W., and the College, Elgin, N.B. , The National Provincial Bank of England, having numerous branches in England and Wales, as well as agents and correspondents at home and abroad, affords great facilities to parties transacting Banking business with it in London. Customers keeping accounts with the Bank in town may have moneys paid to their credit at its various branches, and remitted free of charge. Current accounts conducted at the Head Office and Metropolitan Branches on the usual terms of London Banks. Deposits at interest receivedin London of sums of 101. and upwards, for which receipts are granted, called " Deposit Receipts ;" and interest allowed according to the value of money from time to time as advertised by the Bank in the newspapers. The Agency of Country and Foreign Banks, whether Joint Stock or Private, is undertaken. Purchases and Sales effected in all British and Foreign Stocks ; and Dividends, Annuities, &C, received for customers. Circular Notes and Letters of Credit are issued for the use of Travellers on the Continent and elsewhere. At the Country Branches, Deposits are received and all other Banking business is con ducted on the usual terms. The Officers of the Bank are bound to Becrecy as regards the transactions of its customers. Copies of the last Annual Report of the Bank, Lists of Shareholders, Branches, Agents, and Correspondents, may be had on application at the Head Office, and at any of the Bank's Branches. By order of the Directors, E. ATKINSON, > Joint > WI. HOLT, i General Managers. E 2 52 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, PENZANCE, CORNWALL. MOUNT'S BAT HOUSE,1 ESPLANADE, PENZANCE, CORNWALL, Has been erected and fitted up expressly as a FAMILY HOTEL &JUl^EIOE^LODGIIfGr-HOUSE. ~M"0 expense or labour haa been spared by the Proprietor. ¦*¦ ' The house is furnished in the most modern style, is well supplied with Hot and Cold Eaths, and replete With every aucomnwdatioa Btritabfe rear Tourists to West Cornwall. All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted an&unsurpassedrievr of that * Beauteous gem set in the' silver sea/ St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the magnificent Bay. Invalids will find in Mount's Bay House the comforts of a home, while the beauty and salubrity of the situation,, and ita nearness to the charming walks on the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful1 residence. Suites of apartments for families of distinction. Choice Wines and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. Charges moderate. E„ LAVES", Pbopbeetob. ANTWERP. HOTEL DU GRAM) LAEOUKEUR, PLACE DE MEIR, 26. This old-established and highly-recommended Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is situated in the finest and healthiest square of the city of Antwerp; its cleanliness and the excellency of the Table-d'Hote and Wines, added to the attention and civility shown to all visitors, have made it deservedly popular. EOT AUD COLD BATHS. ENGLISH AND FRENCH NEWSPAPERS. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. S3 VENICE. GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. (Fobmbrlt REGINA D'INGHILTERRA.) ROBERT ETZENSBERGER, Manager. ^FHE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, most conveniently ~ situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the principal Theatres. 180 Bed rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-room, with Piano, Billiard-room, and Smo'king-room. Baths of every description, great comfort and cleanliness. Service on the Swiss system. Charges more moderate than in any cither first-class Hotel. Arrangements for Pension. English spoken by all the Servants. FLOR ENCE. HOTEL 1*0 ETA EOSSA. Mr. BASSETTI, Proprietor, who speaks English. THE best, largest, and most central of the second-class Hotels, with first-rate Restaurant Highly recommended to Bachelors and Families who wish .to unite economy with good ¦ treatment. T«Ble-o?Hote at fr. 3. SO. Good Rooms from 2 fr, Heading-room with Piano. Omnibus at all Trains. Mrs. BASSETTI is English. M AYE N C E. HOTEL DE^HOLLANDE. TEED. BUDINGEET, Proprietar, THIS fir»t-olass welMaiown Hotel, much frequented by English Families and Tourists, has been greatly enlarged and improved, and contains now 140 Rooms and Saloons. English comfort. This Hotel is situated on the River,1 opposite to the Landing-place of the Rhine .Steamers, and near the JJailwav Station, and affords from its Balconies and Windows splendid views of t3ie Rhine and Taunus Mountains. This Hotel is reputed for its excellent cooking, exquisite Wines, eleanliness and good attendance, English Newspapers. Choice Rhine and Moselle Wines, wholesale and for exportation. 54 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, RUSSIA. HOTEL BILLO, MOSCOW, GREAT LUBIANKA STREET. Pbopbietoe, Mb. EDWARD BILLO. A LEEADT advantageously known for these past 20 Tears, -ci- and of late considerably Enlarged, and newly Furnished with all the requirements of modern times, this FIBST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, entirely Private, has merited, under the careful attention of the Proprietor, for its comfort, cleanliness, and order, the unquestionable patronage of tho most distinguished Travellers. This Hotel is situated in the highest and healthiest part, the very centre of Moscow, with the front to the sunside, and most convenient for visitors on pleasure or business, being near the Imperial Theatre and Opera House, the Kreml, and the Boulevards, and also elose to the City, the Exchange, the Post and Telegraph Offices, and the business plaees in general. Single Eooms and Apartments, excellent Table d'Hote Dinner at 5 J p.m., separate dinners, choice wines. Prices moderate. Ladies' Room, Beading and Smoking Boom, English Newspapers, viz. : ' The Times,' ' The Graphic,' and ' Punch ;' French and German News papers. Every sort of information about the town, its environs, trade, and the inland communications. Own Letter-box. Interpreters and Guides. Bank Notes and Bills of Circular Letters changed. Cold, Warm, Shower Baths, Sponge Tubs. Equipages and Droshkies at the door. No personal trouble whatever with the Passports, which are strictly required by the police office. Own Carriage and attendance at the Peters burg Bailway Station to receive the Travellers and their Luggage. It is advisable to secure Booms beforehand, especially during the time of the Nishny Fair (in August), and during the Carnival time (in January and February). CAUTION.— Travellers are cautioned not to confound the HOTEL BILLO with other establishments of nearly unisonous names, and to take care not to allow themselves to be led away by the Cabmen or Iswoschtschiks and other interested persons, - especially at St. Petersburg, but lo insist on being conducted to the HOTEL BILLO, Great Lubiauka; in Russian, Gostinnitza Billo, Bolshaia Lubianlta. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 55 TO CONTINENTAL TRAVELLERS. DORRELL & SON'S PASSPORT ^G-EI^OY, 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on British Subjects visit ing the Continent will save trouble and expense by obtaining their Pass ports through the above Agency. No personal attendance is required, and country residents may have their Pass ports forwarded through the post. A ' Passpobt Prospectus/ containing .every particular in de- Fee, Obtaining Passport, Is. 6d. ; Visas, Is. each. Cases, in either Language. tail, by post, on applica tion. Passports Mounted, and enclosed In Cases, with the name of the bearer impressed in gold on the outside ; thus af fording security against injury or loss, and pre venting delay in the frequent examination of the Passport when tra velling. Is. 6(2. to 5s. each. THE LATEST EDITIONS - OFJMURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books. Couriers' Bags, Pocket- books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkstands, and a va riety of other Articles useful for Travellers. CANTON DE VAUD, BEX (Switzerland). GRAND HOTEL AND BATHS DES SALINES. L. FELLER, Manager. DR. COSBY, Consulting Doctor. (Lately Souse Surgeon to the Paris Hospital.') HYDROPATHY, RUSSIAN BATHS, TURKISH BATHS. SALOON FOE PULVEEISED SPEAY BATHS OF VAEIOUS MINERAL WATEES. Established after the newest and most perfect systems known. English Church Service in the Hotel. 5G MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, By Royal- KV' "^Psl Command. JOSEPH GILLOTT'S CELEBRATED STEEL PENS, SOLI? BY ALU DEALERS^ THROUGHOUT TH% WORLD. Eyedy Packet bears the Jafrsimilc pf his Signature, GEN EVA. A. GOLAY, LERESCHE & SONS, 31, QUAI DES BEBGUES, and I, PLACE DU POST, MANUFACTURERS OF WATCHES AND JEWELRY. Two large Establishments, completelj furnished with goods of the newest designs. Warranted Watches of all kinds, especially of Chronometers and with complex movements. Also, a ntj. large assortment of Jewelry. House In Paris, Mb. 2, RUE DE LA. PAIX. GENEVA. GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES. A. R1VENC & Co., MANUFACTURERS. WHOLESALE. EXPORTATION. RETAIL- 5, EUE DES ALPES, 5. Adjoining the Hotel de la Paix. Manufactory, Hue Sismondi, 3 au 5'°™°. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. ' 57 BOOKS AND MAPS FOR TRAVELLERS IN 187S. How to see Norway. By Captain J. E. Campbell. With Map and Five Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo., price 5s. Hours of Exercise in the Alps. By John Ttndall, LL.D., F.R.S. Second Edition, with Seven Woodcuts by E.Whymi'er. Crown 8vo., price \2s.ed. The High Alps without Guides; being a Narrative of Adventures in Switzerland, together with Chapters on the l'racticability of such mode of Mountaineering, and Suggestions for its Accomplishment. By the Rev. A. G. Girdlb- stone, M.A. With Frontispiece and Two Maps. Square crown 8vo., price Is. ed. Ball's Guide to the "Western Alps, Mont Blanc, Monte JIGS A, &c Including the whole range of the Alps of Piedmont. Dauphrne, and Savoy, from Nice to the Pass of the Sunplon. New Edition, revised, May, 1870. Post 8vo.r with Maps, &c. .price 10s. ed. Ball's Guide to the Central Alps, including the Bernese Oberland, with Lombardy and the adjoining portion of the Tyrol. New Edition, 1869. Post 8vo., with Maps, &c, price Is. ed. Ball's Guide to the Eastern Alps, ineluding.the Salzburg and Central Tyrolese, Chains, the Styrian Alps, and the Terglon District from the Valley of the Drave to. the Adriatic. New Edition, 1869. Post 8vo., with Maps, &c, price 10s. ed. Zigzagging amongst Dolomites. By the Author of ' How we Spent the Summer.' With upwards of Three Hundred Illustrations in fac simile of Original Sketches by the Auftior. Oblong 4to., price 15s. Cadore, or Titian's Country. By Josiah Gilbert, one of the Authors of the ' Dolomite Mountains.' Witt Map, Facsimile, and 40 Illustrations. Imperial 8vo., price 31s. ed. Map of the Chain of Mont Blane, from an Actual Survey in 1863-1 864. By A. Adams-Reillt, F.R.G.S;, M.A.C. In Chromo. lithography on extra stout Drawing Paper, 28 inches by 17 inches, price 10s. To be had also mounted on Canvas, in a folding case, price 12s. ed. Map of the Valpelline, the Val Tournanche, and the Southern Valleys of the Chain of MONTE ROSA, from an actual Survey in 1866-1866. By A. Adams-Rkiixt, F.R.G A, M.A.C. In pbromo-lithography, on extra stoutDrawing: Paper, 25 inches toy 14 inches, price 6s. To be had also inoonted on Camvas, folded and jointed, for Pocket oe Knapsack, price Is. ed. Pau and the Pyrenees. By Count Henry Ehssell, Member of the Geographical and Geological Societies of France, of the Alpine Club, of the Soci<5t6 Ramond, &c.' With Two Maps and a Panorama. Square fcap. 8vo., price 6s. Guide to the Pyrenees, for the Use of Mountaineers. By Chaki.es Packe. Second Edition, corrected; with Frontispiece and Map, and an Afpehdix. Crown Svo., price Is. ed. The Play-ground of Europe. By Leslie Stephen, late President of the Akjiine Club. Witt Four Woodcut Illustrations by E. Whijifeb. Crown 8vo., price 10s. ed. Travels in the Central Caucasus and Bashan, including Visits to Ararat and Tabreez and Ascents of Kazbek and Elbraia. By Dgcgias W. Fkeshfibld. With Maps and Illustrations. Square crown Svo,, price 18s. LONDON : LONGMANS, GREEN & CO:, PATERNOSTER ROW. 5» MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GENEVA. NO. 2, PLACE DES BERGUES. GEO. BAKER, ENGLISH CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST, PRESCRIPTIONS CAREFULLY PREPARED. ALL KINDS OF PATENT MEDICINES & PEBFUMEB7. Homoeopathic Preparations. Soda and Saratoga 'Water. Medicines and Preparations forwarded with the greatest despatch and safety to all parts of Switzerland by Post. ROME. IN"o- 496, OOE/SO. GEO. BAKER, ENGLISH CHEMIST, GENEVA, INFORMS the Inhabitants and Visitors of Rome that he has opened an Establishment at the above address, for the supply of English specialities and goods adapted for the use of Families at prices far inferior to those hitherto charged in Rome. NICE. PHARMACIE DANIEL ET CIE- QUAI MASSENA. GEO. BAKER, ENGLISH CHEMIST OF GENEVA, INFORMS the Visitors and Residents of Nice, that he has succeeded to the above old established and justly renowned Pharmacy, and that having associated with him Mr. GEORGE BUSBY, who for nine years past has been Assistant Manager of it, he hopes by careful attention and a moderate Scale of Charges, not only to maintain, but to extend, its ancient and well deserved reputation. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 59 ( CONSTANTINOPLE. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. JAMES MISSIRIE, Proprietor. THIS long-established and well-known Hotel, situated in the GRAND RUE DE PERA, commanding a magnificent view of the UNRIVALLED BOSPHORUS, is replete with every oomfcrt and convenience for the Accommodation of Families and Tourists. A Select Table D'Hote. In consequence of the largely increasing number of Visitors to the OTTOMAN CAPITAL, from the futility with which it can now be reached from all parts of Europe, and Passengers who select this agreeable Route to and from INDIA and the EAST, it is requested that Familiea desirous of securing Rooms telegraph or write in anticipation. Every attention will be paid to instructions thus transmitted. CAREFULLY SELECTED INTERPRETERS FOR ALL LANGUAGES. The Attendants and Boats of the Hotel await the arrival of the Steamers. The Miniature Photographic Apparatus for Tourists. NO KNOWLEDGE OF PHOTOGBAPHT BEQUISITE. Sole Manufacturers: KTURRAT & HEATH, Opticians, &c, to Her Majesty, 69, JERMYN STREKT, LONDON, S.W. Description and Prices forwarded ou receipt of stamped envelope. CHAMOUNIX. HOTEL DES ALPES. AVERY Comfortable Hotel, containing Fifty Rooms. Splendid view three sides of the House. First-rate' Cuisine and moderate Charges, and reduction for long residence. English, French, and German Newspapers. Hot and Cold Baths in the House. KLOTZ, Proprietor. 60 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VISITORS TO NAPLES. BRITISH LIBRARY & READING ROOMS, (EttaUuhed in 1837 by Mrs. Vorant), 2 6 7, KIVIEBA DI GHIAJA. MURRAY'S GUIDES FOR RALE AT THE LONDON PRICES. BAEDKKER'S AND OTHER GUIDES. TAUCHN1TZ EDITIONS. The READING JROOMS are rupplied with the hading English, Ameriean, German,) French, and Italian Journals. ANNEXED ENGLISH AND AMERICAN BANK, GEORGE CXVALLEKI. baits: bills, CIRCULAR NOTES, AND LETTERS 07 CREDIT cashed on London »nd 1 'aris. WORKS OP ART AND LUGGAGE warehoued, and forwarded to all parts of the world. CorrMtwnaenti i Messrs. CHARLES CARR & Co., 14, Bishopsgate St.Withir,, in London | Messrs. OLIYIEB & CO, ST, Fiiubury Square. FLORENCE. 13, Lung' Afno Nuovo, and 7, Lung' Arno Corsini. 1W0NTELATICI BROTHERS, cgHumhrtnxtx% ri $laxmtm gtaaits* ASSORTMENT OF CASKETS AND ALBUMS. COMMISSIONS AND EXPORTATION. SUCCUBSALE, BADEN-BADEN, opposite the Hotel d'Angleterre. VIENNA- Dr. HERMANN BEIGEL, 2, Li cht ens te in- Strasse, PARTERRE, VIENNA, Member of the College of Physicians of London. ESSENTIALS JOB TKAYELLING. Thresher's India Tweed Suits. Thresher's Kashmir Flannel Shirts. Thresher's Kashmir Woollen Socks. Thresher's Coloured Flannel Shirts. Thresher's Travelling Bags. 60LD OHLY BY THEESHEK & GLENNY, NEXT DOOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE, STRAND. *«72. MtJRRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 61 BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE BELLE YUE; Proprietor, Mr. EDWARD DREMEL. fPHIS magnificent Hotel, in Bering to the Visitor every kind of comfort and accommodation, has the great adrantaga of being situated adjoining THE PALACE OF THE KING, and facing THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK. It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as Dingle Booms. Table-d'Hote, riMy served. Choice Wines. S STOKING EOOM. BEADING BOOM, With the heat Belgian, English, French, German, and American Daily Papersi and PeriedicaU. Terraces, witbf Splendid .View overlooking tie Park. AEaiiraBicBKTS kadb for thb. wiktbb. Mr. Dremkl, the new Proprietor of this Efotef, hopes to justify the '' i' confidence placed in him, by a carefally arranged system of prompt and civil attendance, combined wftfi. moderate charges. 62 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, APPEAL. TE I^AflffGHE, belonging to the same Proprietor. Excellent Hotel; clean and well-furnishud Rooms at moderate prices. + Warm and CoId> Baths. '''"¦.' ' '" ' ' '"' HOMBOTJKG.— ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.— First-rate for Families' and Single G-ntlemen, close to the Springs and the Kur.-uul ; it is one of the best situated Hotels in the town. A splendid Dining-room, and two suites of airy and quiet apartments (with balconjes), overlooking the fine Trturlus Mountains.' have been, newly added to the Hotel. It has been patronised by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, and several ' other Royal personages. The Proprietor, who has been for years in first-eiass hotels in London, offers visitors the advantages of good and comfortable accommodation. All the attendants speak English. Best French aud English cooking. Excellent Wines. Moderate rhargel— Gustave WeigaKd, Proprietor. :. < . GENOA. GRAND HOTEL DE GENES. MESSES. L. BONERA AND BROTHERS. (PLACE CAKLO FELICE, the most beautiful situation iu the City.) THIS magnificent and first-class Hotel, formerly tlie Palazzi -*- Marchese Spinola, was newly opened and entirely refurnished about two years afco. Its situation, opposite the celebrated Theatre "Carlo Felice," and in the vicinity of the English Church, the Post-Office, and of the principal Public Buildings, ar/d free from the noise of the Railway and the unpleasant odours of the Port, contributes to render this Hotel a most desirable residence. Large and small apartmews, fitted up In the most elegant style. Table d'Hote. Reading and Smoking Saloons. Baths, &c.^ Omnibuses, from the Hotel meet every train. ~ ANTWERP. H6TBL 1>E L'ETJRO^E, Next to the Post Office. The mast agreeable situation in the town. FORMERLY H&TEL DU PARC. rpHIS Hotel has been rebuilt, a magnificent Salle a manger added, as well as many Bed 1 and Sitting Rooms, entirely new tarnished and redecorated ; and the present Proprietor spares no exertion to render it one of the most popular hotels on the Continent. Excellent Table-d Hote. Sot and i Cold Baths. Stabling and Coacii-hoUse. English and French tfewspapera. 1872. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEUTrSER. 69' BRUSSELS. jKUKy? BRUSSELS. SUFFELL'S ENGLISH AND AMERICAN BANK AND EXCHANGE OFFICE, ¦81, MONTAGNE DE LA COUR, {Two doors from the Hotel de l'Europe)i Changes; 'Ciroular and Bank. Notejs, whether addressed' to him or not, Letters of Credit, &c. Gheques cashed at sight, on the Londo'n and County Bank, Coutts, Drummond, Scott, Loudon and Westminster, Union Bank of London, and all other Banks in town or country. Cashes Letters of Credit on Messrs. Brown, Shipley, & Duncan, New York ; Bowles Brothers, & Co. BRUSSELS HOUSE AGENCY. ESTABLISHED 36 , YEARS. Apartments and. Houses. Agency and General • Information. Families can in fnll confidence apply to Mr. SCJFFELL, 81, MontAqnb de LA CotJR, who is English, and established here SS years. Mr. S. accepts no fees whatever for such services, but only solicits, in return, the patronage of his fellow- countrymen in all ,that relates to MoDey-changing and Banking Business in genera). Lists of Prices of Apartments, Houses, Living, Education, &c, on application.- Write post free, and please enclose stamps for reply. SUFFELL'S WINE STORES. — i — , , ¦ i FINE OLD PALE AND GOLDEN SHERRY. PALE BRANDY. ENGLISH SODA. WATER. . . BASS'S PALE ALE. GUINNESS'S STOUT. BOOTH'S OLD GIN. HAVANNAH CIGARS, fioin the London Docks. 81, MOWTAGBTE DE LA COTJR. Agent far the Calais and Ostend Royal Mail Packet Service ; Great Luxembourg, The Rhine and Moselle Company; Cunard, Inman, and the National, tor New York. • - 70 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav, MUKRAY'S STUDENT'S MANUALS: %, Series of Historical Class-Iroflks fur vubbnnub Sfcjplaxs. "This series of 'Student's Manuals/ edited for the tno=.t part by Dr. Wm. Smith, and published by Mr. Mdiihav, possess several distinctive features which render them singularly valuable an Educational Works. While there is an utter absence of flippancy in them, there is thought In every page, which cannot fail to excite thought in thosa who study Hnjm, and we are glad of an opportunity of directing the attention or such teachers a* are not familiar with them to these admirable school-books? — The Museum. THE STTTDE-NT'S MANUALS, after many years' use, have proved the iwtt valuable aids both, to fupih and Masters engaged in preparing /or tiie CIVIL SERVICE and other Competitive Examinations. I.— ENGLAND. THE STUDENT'S HUME; A History of England, from the Earliest Times. By David Hume. Corrected and continued to 186b'. With Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7s. bU %* Questions on the " Student's Hume." 12mo. 2s. THE STUDENT'S CONSTITUTIONAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND. By Henry Hallam, LL.D. With the Author's latest Additions and Corrections. Post 8vo. 7s. 6J. IL— EUROPE'. THE STUDENT'S HISTORY OP THE MIDDLE AGES, including the Supplemental Notes. By Hemev Hallam, LL.D, With the Author's latest Corrections and Additions. Post 870. 7s. 6. *?;;'»'*• *<¦*?"' SURREY AND HANTS — Kingston, Crotdon, Reigate, Guildford, Dorking, Boxhill, Winchester, Southampton, Portsmouth, and the Isle op Wight. Map. Post Svo. 10s. BERKS, BUCKS, AND OXON— Windsor, Eton, Reading, Aylesbury, Henley, KHBbsd, and the Thames. Map. Post 8vo. 7s. ed. WILTS, DORSET, AND SBjfcRSET— Salisbury, Chippenham, Wey mouth, Sherborne, Wells, Bath, Bbistol, Taunton, &o. Map. Post8vo. 10s. DEVON AND COENWALL-^-Exeter, Ilfracombb, Linton, Sidmouth, Dawlish, Teignmodth, Plymouth, Devonport, Tohquay, Launceston, Pen zance, Falmouth, The Lizard, Land's End, &o. M&p. Post 8vo. 10s. . GLOUCESTER, HEREFORD, AND WORCESTERMJirencester, -Ghbl- tenham, Stboud, Tewkesbury, Leominster, Ross, Malvern, Kiddbbm.'nsteb, Dudley, Bromsurove, Evesham. Map. Post 8vo, 7s. td. L DERBY, NOTTS, LEICESTER, AND STAFFORD— Matlock, Bakewell, Chatsworth, The Peak, Buxton, Hardwick, Dove Dale, Ashborne, South. r well, Mansfield, Retford, Burton, Belvoir, Melton Mowbray, Wolver hampton, Lichfield, Walsall, Tamworth. Map. Post Svo. 7s. 6d. SHROPSHIRE, CHESHIRE, and LANCASHIRE.— Shrewsbury, Ludlow, Bridgnorth, Oswestry, Chester, Crewe, Alderley, Stockport, Birken head, Warrington, Bury, Manchester, Liverpool, Burnley, Clitherob, Bolton, Blackburn, Wigan, Preston, Rochdale, Lancaster, Southport, Blackpool. &c. Map. Post 8vo. 10s. YOBlKplE — Doncaster, Hull, Sblby, Beverley, Scarborough, Whitby, Burrooate, Bipon, Leeds, Wakefield, Bradford, Halifax, Hcddebsfield, Sheffield. Map, and Plans. Post8vo. 12s. DURHAM AND NORTHUMBERLAND— Newcastle, Darlington, Bishop Auckland, Stockton, Hartlepool, Sunderland, Shields, Berwick, Tyne- mouth, Alnwick. Map. Fost8vo. 9s. WESTMORLAND AND CUMBERLAND— Lancaster, Furness Abbey, Ambleside, Kendal, Windermere, Coniston, Keswick, Grasmere, Carlisle, Cockermouth, Penrith, Appleby. Map. Fost8vo. 6s. *»* Murray's Map op the Lakes, on canvas. . Ss. ed. NORTH AND SOUTH WALES— Bangor, Carnarvon, Beaumaris* Snow- don, Conway, Carmarthen, Tenby, Swansea, and the Wye. Maps. 2 vols. Post Svo. 12s. SCOTLAND. — Edinburgh, Melrose, Kelso, Glasgow, Dumfries, Ayr, Stirling, Abran, The Clyde, Oban, Inverarit, Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine and Trosaohs, Caledonian Canal, Inverness, Perth, Dundee Aberdeen, Bbaemar, Skye, Caithness, Rosa, and Sutherland. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. TR.TaT.ATJT> — Dublin, Belfast, Donegal, Galway, Wexford, Cork, Limerick, Waterford, Killarnev, Mdnster. Maps. Post 8vo. 12s. CATHEDRALS OF ENGLAND. SOUTHERN CATHEDRALS— Winchester, Salisbury, Exeter, Wells, Rochester, Canterbury, and Chichester. Illustrations. 2 vols, crown Svo. 24s. EASTERN CATHEDRALS— Oxford, Peterborough, Ely, Norwich, and Lincoln. Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 18s. WESTERN CATHEDRALS — Bristol, Gloucester, Hereford, Worcester, and Lichfield. Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 16s. NORTHERN CATHEDRALS— York, Ripon, Durham, Carlisle, Chester, and Manchester. Illustrations. 2 vols. 21s. UTELSH CATHEDRALS— Llandaff, Bangor, St. DAvro'g, and St. Asaph. With Illustrations. August, 1872.