YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY MARCUS WHITMAN PATHFINDER and PATRIOT STATUE OF MABCUS WHITMAN MAI^CUlT'V^HITMAN RATHFINDER and PATRIOT REV. ,MYRON EELLS, D. D. Author of "Indian Missions," "Ten Years at Skokomisk," "Fattier Mis;' Etc. SEATTLE THE ALICE HAKRMA'N COMPANY MCMIX COPYRIGHT, 1909, BY THE ALICE HARRIMAN COMPANY All Rights Reserved 1^ "Nfc PRESS OF LOWMAN «f HANFORD CO. PLATES BY MARING & BLAKE SEATTLE, WASHINGTON TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Early Life. Page. Birth — Ancestry — Lincoln Family — Saved from Death — Conver sion — Education — Missionary Zeal — Narcissa Prentiss— An cestry and Early Life — Desire for Missionary Work — Early History of the Pacific Coast — Introduction of Indians to Christian Religion — Four Nez Perces Go to St. Louis — Jason Lee and Methodist Missions — Rev. S. Parker — He and Dr. Whitman Start for Oregon — Return of Dr. Whitman from Rocky Mountains — H. H. Spalding — W. H. Gray — Marriage. - 31 CHAPTER II. Crossing the Continent. Leaving Home — To St.1 Louis — The Fur Company Leaves Them — Overtakes It — Danger from Buffalo — Mrs. Spalding's Ill ness — Fourth of July at South Pass — Sacred Ceremony — Meeting With the Indians — American Rendezvous and Its Scenes — The Wagon — Left at Boise — Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. Spalding— Dr. Whitman— Arrival at Fort Walla Walla— At Vancouver — Selecting Stations and Settling at Them. 32 CHAPTER III. Crossing the Continent (Continued). Mrs. Whitman's Journals and Letters — Sabbath at Chester — At St. Louis — American Rendezvous — Fort Hall — Blue Moun tains — Walla Walla — Vancouver. 54 Table of Contents CHAPTER IV. Mission Work. Page. Indians, Numbers and Customs — Birth of Alice — Trouble — Sick ness Among the Indians — Temperance and Clothes — School — Religious Work — Farming — Mails — Railroad Across the Isth mus — First Visit to Lapwai — Baptism of Children — Series of Meetings — Organization of Church and Its History — Rein forcement of 1888 — Tshimakain— Kamiah — Printing Press — Death of Alice — Catholic Missionaries — Death of Mr. Pam- burn — A. McKinley — Encouragements — J. S. Griffin and A. Munger — Dr. Geiger — T. J. Farnham and His Description of Life at Wai-i-lat-pu — Peoria Party — Horse Meat — First Cow Beef and Pork — Mission Work — Sickness — Death of Joseph Mahi— Rev. H. Clark, A. T. Smith and P. B. Littlejohn— Housekeeping — Building — Difficulties With the Indians — Con tentment — Mr. Drayton — Tshimakain — Kamiah — Lapwai — Resignation of Messrs. Smith, Rogers and Gray — Methodist Mission — Immigrations and Settlers. 96 CHAPTER V. Mission Work (Continued). Difficulties in the Mission — Journey East in 1842 — Checkered Af fairs at the Doctor's Station — Mrs. Whitman's Letters and Feelings — Mills — Prospects and Future Plans — Children — Mission Work at the Other Stations — Close of the Methodist Mission — Political Constitution of Oregon. 126 CHAPTER VI. National Work. Period of Early Discovery on the Pacific Coast — Of Fur Traders — Struggle for Possession — Withdrawal of France, Spain and Russia — Hudson Bay Company — American Fur Companies — Location of American and Catholic Missionaries — Efforts of the Hudson Bay Company to Retain Region — American Ef forts — Provisional Government — Dr. Whitman's Ideas — Ash- burton's Treaty — Dr. Whitman's Journey East — A. J. Love- joy's Account — At St. Louis, Cincinnati, Ithaca, Washington, New York and Boston. 193 Table of Contents CHAPTER VII. National Work — Objections. Page. (1) That Dr. Whitman Did Not Go East with Any National Ob ject in View — Evidences of C. Eells, W. Geiger., Mrs. M. R. Walker, W. ,H. -Gray, H. H. Spalding, A. L. Lovejoy, P. B. Whitman, Dr. Barrows, H. H. Field, E. Hale, J. Otis, A. Ram sey, S. Reed, John Tyler, Jr., Hines' History of Oregon, Cir cumstantial Evidence, and Dr. Whitman. (2) That Dr. Whit man Did Nothing Worthy of Mention When in Washington — Evidence of Messrs. Geiger, SpaLding, Gray, P. B. Whitman, Lovejoy, Otis and Dr. Whitman — Governor Simpson at Washington. (3) That it Wss Impossible for Dr. Whitman or A^y One to H*«e; Salved Oregon, as There Was No Dan ger of Losing Jk-HLgnofia-nce About Oregon-*— Webster's Posi tion — Sir Robert Peel — Trade fox California or Newfound land — Judge G. H. Williams — Papers Not Necessary — Web ster's Statement — British Colonial Magazine. (4) That It Was Not Published Earlier— Unwise — Would Bring Dis grace on the Mission — Almost Impossible — Evidence to Show That it Was Known by Many from 1846 to 1857. 163 CHAPTER Viri. Dr. Whitman -and the Immigration of 1843. (5) Objection that Dr. Whitman Did Nothing Worthy of Men tion to Incite People to Start for Oregon — What He Did Do. (6) '"That He 'Did Nothing of Importance to Assist the Immi grants on the Route — What He Did Before Reaching Fort Hall— At Fort Hall— Afterwards— Dr. Whitman's Ideas- Testimonials. 306 CHAPTER IX. Whitman Controversy. Reason for It— Mistakes of Some' Writers— Incidetit at Fort Walla Walla— Controversy of 1880, 1885, 1895, 1897, 1900-1— Mistakes of Those Who Call the Story a Myth— Increase of Evidence. 233 Table of Contents CHAPTER X. Difficulty With the Indians. Page. Troubles of a Physician Among Savage Indians — About Presents Received from Indians — Wood, Water and Land — About Pay for Indians Who Had Died — Mrs. Whitman — Talk of War — Council About Immigration and Land — Elijah Hedding — Catholics — Dr. Whitman Fears — Judge Thornton to Washing ton. 249 CHAPTER XL The Catholics. Arrival of Messrs. Blanchet and Demers — Farnham's Description — Dr. Whitman's Fears — Policy of Catholics — Arrival of Father Brouillet. 270 CHAPTER XII. The Whitman Massacre. Those at Dr. Whitman's Station — His Trip to Umatilla — Massacre — Escape of J. Osborne and Family — Burial of Dead — Cap tives and Their Rescue by P. S. Ogden — Cayuse War — J. L. Meek Sent to Washington — Governor Lane's Arrival — He Secures and Hangs Five Murderers — Tomahawk. 279 CHAPTER XIII. Monuments. Whitman College — Whitman County — Stone Monument — Efforts in the Legislature by Oregon Pioneer and Historical Society —The Grave — By Whitman Monument Association — Dedica tion of It — Services at Washington, D. C. — Statue at Phila delphia. 290 CHAPTER XIV. Results — Conclusion. Dr. Whitman's Wagon in 1836 — First White Woman to Cross the Continent — Mr. Spalding's Eulogy — The Trip of 1842-3 — Rev. J. W. Bashford on the Trip — Testimonials — Poem. 301 APPENDIX. (A) Rev. Samuel Parker 315 (B) Rev. Henry Harmon Spalding 317 (C) " William H. Gray 320 (D) Rev. Asa Bowen Smith 323 (E) Rev. E. Walker.... 325 (F) Rev. Cushing Eells, D. D _ 327 (G) Cornelius Rogers 329 (H) Edwin Oscar Hall 331 (I) Mr. Andrew Rodgers 333 (J) Letter and Synopsis of Bill by Marcus Whitman 335-337 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Statue of Marcus Whitman _ Frontispiece Rev. Samuel Parker _ Facing Page 26 Birthplace of Mrs. Whitman. Church at Angelica, N.Y. Fourth of July, 1836..._ Fort Laramie and Independence Rock Fort Boise _ _ Rev. Henry Spalding. William H. Gray. Fort Hall _ - Fort Walla Walla Fort Vancouver _ ,. The Whitman Mission, 1843 The Printing Press Tshimakain, 1843 Columbia River and The Dalles Lost in the Snow _ - _ Hon. A. L-. Lovejoy _ Four Pioneer Catholics Dr. John McLoughlin. Gov. P. S. Ogden Rev. Cushing Eells. Rev. Elkanah Walker Grave of Massacre Victims Whitman Monument _ 303438 44 587082 90 100 114 124138156 168 268 286 290296 300 Bird'seye View — Map Inserts PREFACE It is not strange that the writer has been interested in the life of Dr. Whitman. His father was an associate of the Doctor in the Oregon Mission from 1838 to 1847, and the founder of Whitman Seminary and College. In 1882 the writer published a book on Protestant Indian Missions on the North Pacific Coast, in which considerable reference was made to the Doctor's work and the results of it. Growing more interested in the work, he planned something larger, and in 1887-90 pub lished a series of fifty-one articles in the San Francisco Pacific, in regard to the Doctor and his work, intending in a few years to put these in book form. Various things delayed, however. In the mean time other books were published much in the same line, as, How Marcus Whitman Saved Oregon, by Dr. O. W. Nixon; The Story of Marcus Whitman, by J. G. Craighead, D. D. ; Marcus Whitman and the Early Days of Oregon, by Dr. W. A. Mowry; and some pamphlets, with many magazine articles ; so that the writer at one time thought that it would not be wise for him to go forward with his book, and gave it up. But of late there has seemed to be a demand for something different from what has yet been published. In it the writer has been encouraged from sources which he did not expect, even those who have already written on the subject. Says Dr. Nixon, of Chicago, March 29, 1900: "It seems to me that it is a duty incumbent upon you to write a complete history of Early Ore gon and the great part enacted by the patriotic Christian mis sionaries." Says President S. B. L. Penrose, of Whitman Col lege, February 9, 1901 : "It delights me to hear that you are engaged on a life of Dr. Whitman. I hope that you will soon be able to push on with the work, and have it ready for the public." Says Dr. W. A. Mowry, of Hyde Park, Massachu- Preface setts, February 1, 1899 : "I have supposed that at the proper time you would publish a Life of Dr. Whitman which will prove the last word. You will make it so full, so complete, so authoritative, that no one can afterward object. I certainly hope you will do that." Says Dr. S. H. Wiley, of California, January 2, 1889, who had written a series of articles in regard to "the work of the A. B. C. F. M. on the Pacific Slope and related matters," after referring to the series of articles spoken of above in the Pacific : "I want to see the thorough work you have done put in permanent form, ere long, work that will satisfy candid inquirers, far and near ;" and again, March 4 : "You have got hold of the handle of this matter, which means that Providence intends that you should carry it through." Others who have encouraged the writer are Hon. J. W. Fair- bainks, who has delivered his lecture in, the East many times on The Bide That Saved an Empire; Rev. W. A. Tenney, of Oakland, California, formerly of Oregon, who has written con siderably about the missions on the northwest coast for news papers and magazines ; Colonel W. F. Prosser, President of the Washington State Historical Society, and editor of the Wash ington Historical Magazine; and Dr. A. J. Anderson, first President of Whitman College. In 1883, the author published a pamphlet of thirty-four oc tavo pages, entitled Marcus Whitman, M. D. Proofs of his work in Saving Oregon to the United States and in promoting the immigration of 18^8. In it are a large number of letters, most of which were written to the author on these subjects. This in some of the chapters will be referred to as Eells' Whit man Pamphlet. The books, pamphlets and newspapers to which the writer is indebted for aid in preparing the following pages are very many, and are generally mentioned in the foot notes. The writer also here wishes to thank the many persons who have in answer to his inquiries written him in regard to various subjects herein treated. Their names are generally mentioned in their proper places. Twana, Washington, January 1st, 1907. • Preface ADDITIONAL. This much had Dr. Eells written at the time of his death early in January, 1907. He was exceptionally qualified to write the history of Oregon, both by the qualities of mind which he inherited from his distinguished father, and by his lifelong residence upon its soil. Clear-sighted, patient and industrious, he combined in a rare degree the unflagging zeal of the scholar with a warm-hearted devotion to the interests of truth and right. He was mentally and morally honest to the core. The name of Dr. Whitman was to him a household name from childhood, and to the personal knowledge of him derived from Eev. Cushing Eells, Dr. Whitman's associate and friend, Myron Eells added the knowledge gained by thirty years of pains taking investigation into the written and unwritten records of pioneer history. It may be doubted if any other man ever lived who was so fully and accurately informed concerning that early period. We may hope, moreover, that future generations will appre ciate the simple heroism and sublime self-sacrifice of this grad uate of Pacific University and of Hartford Theological Sem inary who devoted his life to preaching the Gospel of Jesus Christ to the Indian tribes scattered along the shores of Hood's Canal. He lived among the Indians of the Skokomish reser vation from 1874 until his death, always a faithful missionary, yet always also a student of anthropology, language, and his tory. The noble traditions of his New England ancestors were worthily exemplified in him, scholar, hero and saint. The publication of the present work, left in manuscript completed at Dr. Eells' death, has been made possible by the generous financial assistance of the following persons, to whom grateful acknowledgment is hereby given: Mr. K. L. McCor mick, of Tacoma, Hon. Thomas Burke, Miss M. L. Denny, Mr. Lawrence J. Colman, Eev. Edward Lincoln Smith, D. D., Mr. S. L. Crawford, Mr. W. T. Dovell, ex-Gov. John H. McGraw, Mrs. Edmund Bowden and Mr. J. A. Hall, of Seattle. Preface In the revision of the manuscript valuable aid has been ren dered by Judge Cornelius H. Hanford, Mr. W. H. Gilstrap, secretary of the Washington State Historical Society, and Miss Mary Banks, reference librarian, Seattle Public Library. The illustrations used are due to the courtesy of Whitman College, the Washington State Historical Society, Oregon His torical Society, and Silver, Burdette Company. MARCUS WHITMAN PATHFINDER and PATRIOT MARCUS WHITMAN PATHFINDER and PATRIOT CHAPTEE I. EARLY LIFE. Dr. Marcus Whitman was born at Eushville, Yates County, New York, September 4, 1802; the third son of Beza and Alice Whitman. His father was a native of Goshen, Massachusetts, and moved from Windsor, Massachusetts, in 1799, living first in Hopewell, and next settling in Gorham, now Eushville, where Marcus was born. He built and kept the first public house in Eushville, and died April 6, 1810 -1 1 From a work published by Fowler and Wells it would seem that the original Whitman stock predominated over all those that inter married with it, not only in imparting age, but also in rendering the descendants conspicuous for high moral and religious feelings and strong common sense. John Whitman, called "the ancestor" of the Whitman family, lived to be about ninety. None of his sons died un der eighty-two, and several of them reached ninety years. A de scendant of Deacon Whitman died at the advanced age of one hun dred and seven. It is also interesting to note that in very early days the families of Abraham Lincoln and Marcus Whitman were related. Samuel Lincoln came from Norfolk County, England, in 1637 and set tled in Salem, Mass. Of his ten children, the fourth was Mordecai. John Whitman, of Weymouth, Mass., was the founder of the Whit man family in America. His eldest child was Sarah Whitman, who married in 1683 Abraham Jones, of Hingham, Mass. They had seven children, one of whom, Sarah Whitman Jones, married Mordecai Lin coln. They left four children, of whom Mordecai was great-great grandfather of President Lincoln. Says the Chicago Inter-Ocean of June 2, 1896, "Two grander names have not figured in American his tory than those of Lincoln and Whitman,'' and "these facts lead di rectly to the pleasing fact that the martyr President, Abraham Lin coln, and the old hero-missionary, Marcus Whitman, were descen dants of the same family.'' The direct line from John Whitman is as follows: John Whitman, born probably in 1602, came, as near as can be learned, from Herefordshire, England, to Weymouth, Mass., before 1638, as he was there at that time, and died in 1692. The oldest son 22 Marcus Whitman Beza Whitman left a family of five surviving children — Au gustus, Marcus, Henry G., Samuel and Alice. In the infancy of Marcus, his parents lived in a log house. The country was new and wild, and his father was a tanner and a currier. His mother, being lonely, often used to go and sit with her husband in the little shop opposite the house, binding shoes. Having left Marcus, a baby, in his cradle, one evening, she was much startled, on her return, to find that a log had fallen from the fireplace and burned the lower end of the cradle, and that he was nearly suffocated by the smoke. His life was, however, preserved for a great work. In the fall of 1810, after the death of his father, he was sent to live with his paternal grandfather, Deacon Samuel Whitman, at Plainfield, Mass. He dated his conversion from a revival at this place in 1819, though he did not join any church until five years later, when he united with the Congre gational Church at Eushville, January, 1824. He remained a member of this for nine years, when he joined the Presbyterian Church at Wheeler, February 9, 1833, of which he was elected a ruling Elder the next month. February 2, 1836, he was dis missed from this to "where the Providence of God may cast his lot," after which, about 1838, he joined the Mission Church in Oregon, which was Presbyterian in name and Congrega tional in practice. Having remained at Plainfied four years, he unexpectedly i-eturned home for a visit of three weeks. Coming in at even ing, he went up to his mother, and reached out his hand, say ing, "How do you do, mother." She drew back, not knowing him. This so grieved him that he burst into tears. He re turned to Plainfield for five years longer, and began a course of Latin under Rev. Moses Hallock, after which he returned to and child of John Whitman and Ruth, his wife, was Thomas, who was born in 1629, married Abigail Bryam, and died in 1712. Their third son and child was Nicholas, born 1675, married Sarah Vining, and died in 1746. Their second son and child was John, born 1704, mar ried Elizabeth Cary, and died in 1792. Their oldest child was Sam uel, born 1730, married Mrs. Sarah Waterman, and died in 1824. Their fifth son and child was Beza, born 1773, married Alice Green, March 9, 1797, and died in 1810. Early Life 23 Eushville, where he finished this part of his studies under Rev. David Page. His heart was set on studying for the min istry, but he was opposed by his brothers, who thought his lim ited means would compel him to be a charity scholar, and they persuaded him, against his will, to take up the study of medi cine. Many a time were tears seen on his face, as he thought of his disappointment in this object of life. He took up a three-years' course of medical study with Dr. Ira Bryant, of Rushville, and received his diploma at Fairfield in 1824. Dur ing his studies he was severely afflicted with a pain in his side, to which he remained subject all his life, but he was a man of remarkable energy and perseverance, and seldom yielded to bodily pain or weariness. His first practice in medicine was four years in Canada, after which he went home, determined to study for the min istry, but he was again assailed by the pain in his side and conquered by it, whereupon he went to Wheeler, where he practiced medicine for four years more. At one time he was associated with his brother Henry in owning and running a saw mill near Potter Center. He always had a great passion for adventure and explora tion in new and uncivilized regions, and being of a strong re ligious tendency, he panted for missionary work that would gratify and satisfy these desires. Consequently, he wrote the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions at Boston, the missionary society of the Congregational and Pres byterian Churches, about it. In this letter, dated at Wheeler, N. Y., June 3, 1834, he said : "I regard the missionary cause as based on the atonement and the commands and promises of the Lord Jesus Christ to his ambassadors and church; and that it involves the holiness and happiness of all that may be reclaimed from sin. I am willing to go to any field of useful ness at the direction of the American Board. I will cooperate as physician, teacher or agriculturist, so far as I am able, if required." 1 His wife, Narcissa Prentiss, was born in Prattsburg, New York, March 14, 1808. She was the daughter of Judge Stephen 1 "Missionary Herald," January, 1898, p. 9. 24 Marcus Whitman Prentiss, and like Dr. Whitman, she could trace her ancestry in America back to the first part of the Seventeenth Century, soon after the landing of the Pilgrims.1 Her father had nine children, and she was the third. He and his wife and all of these children were members of the Congregational Church in Prattsburg. She was the subject of early religious impressions, and at the age of eleven, in 1819, she united with that church, and was ever afterwards known as an active Christian worker. Seventy others united with that church on that day. H. H. Spalding, though not then a Christian, was a spectator of the scene. About five years later he united with the same church, and for several years they were members also of the same school in Prattsburg. Miss Prentiss received a part of her education at Miss Willard's Seminary at Troy, N. Y., and completed it at Frank lin Academy at Prattsburg. Afterwards she and her sister, Jane Abigail, established an infant school at Bath, the county seat of Steuben County. In 1834 she moved to Angelica, where she united with the Presbyterian Church. There she was very active in Sabbath School and prayer meetings. She was the life of the ladies' prayer meetings, and in fact it was owing to her efforts that they were established. She was very anxious that her friends should come to a knowledge of Christ, and for this object would visit them and urge them to come to Him. After her conversion her mind was drawn to the subject of foreign missions, and it became her ardent wish to carry the news of salvation to the heathen. She had written to the American Board in regard to her wishes, and that Society had about determined to send her to some tribe east of the Rockies. 1 The first was Henry Prentice, a planter, who was born in Eng land, but was in Cambridge, Mass., before 1640. Himself and family were members of the Cambridge Church. He died in 1654. Second, Solomon Prentice, son of Henry, born in Cambridge 1646, died there 1719. Third, his son Solomon Prentice, Jr., born 1673, died 1758. Fourth, Stephen Prentice, born in Cambridge, 1720. He moved to Grafton, Mass. Fifth, Stephen Prentice, second son of the last, born in Grafton, 1744. He moved to Walpole, New Hampshire. Sixth, Stephen Prentiss (the spelling of the name was then changed), born in Walpole, 1777, died in West Almond, N. Y., 1862. He was the father of Narcissa. Early Life 25 In her offer of herself to the Board she wrote: "Feeling it more my privilege than duty to labor for the conversion of the heathen, I respectfully submit myself to your direction."1 The Prudential Committee of the American Board thought at first of sending him to some tribe of Indians east of the Rocky Mountains, but God had been preparing him for another work. He had given the Doctor a desire to preach the Gospel ; had caused him to be a ruling elder in the church, the highest office in its gift next to the ministry; had brought him into revival work; had given him a medical education, which he found to be the necessary one for him when in Oregon;2 had taught him how to manage a mill,8 and finally had brought the Doctor and the Missionary Board into friendly intercourse. After the period of discovery of the North Pacific Coast, which was in the main done by water by Berkeley or Barclay in 1788, Quadra in 1790, Vancouver and Gray in 1792, and by land by Mackenzie in 1795, and Lewis and Clark in 1804-6, came the era of the Fur Hunters. Of these there were at least fourteen companies, of which the Hudson's Bay Company was the principal. This began its business on the Pacific Coast in 1821. From some of these explorers the Indians obtained in formation about God, the Bible, the Sabbath, and the Christian religion. Lewis and Clark had told them that in these were the secret of the white man's power. The Hudson's Bay Com pany had their flag put up every Sabbath, so that the day had come to be known among the Indians as the "flag day." A certain trapper spent hours in reading the Book and talking silently to an unseen Being above. The Indians wanted to know more about the new religion. They were told that after a while missionaries from the East would come and teach them. They waited for them and talked about the subject around their council fires, but they waited in vain. Hence, after years of waiting, they concluded to send five Nez Perces to the East for missionaries and the Book. They went in 1832 ; ""Missionary Herald," January, 1898, p. 9. 'His field stretched two hundred miles in every direction from his home, with not another physician in it as long as he lived. 'He was the only member of the Oregon Mission of the Ameri can Board who at first had the necessary knowledge. 26 Marcus Whitman only four of them, however, reaching St. Louis. There they found their old friend, General Clark, Superintendent of In dian Affairs, whom they had seen in 1805-6. They made known their wants to him, but for some reason he avoided making public the object of their visit. He, however, treated them kindly, entertained them, and showed them the sights of the city. They were taken to the cathedral and shown the altar and the pictures of the saints. But they did not obtain the object of their coming. Two of their number died, and the other two prepared mournfully to return to their homes. As they were about to leave the office of General Clark, one of their number made the following farewell address to him, which was overheard by a young man near by and written down. It was as follows : "I came to you over a trail of many moons from the setting sun. You were the friend of my fathers who have all gone the long way. I came with one eye partly opened, for more light for my people who sit in darkness. I go back with both eyes closed. How can I go back with both eyes closed? How can I go back blind to my blind people? I made my way to you with strong arms, through many enemies and strange lands, that I might carry back much to them. I go back with both arms broken and empty. The two fathers who came with us — the braves of many winters and wars — we leave asleep by your great water and wigwam. They were tired in many moons and their moccasins wore out. My people sent me to get the white man's book of Heaven. You took me where you allow your women to dance, as we do not ours, and the book was not there ; you showed me the images of good spirits and pictures of the good land beyond, but the book was not among them to tell us the way. I am going back the long sad trail to my people of the dark land. You make my feet heavy with burdens of gifts, and my moccasins will grow old in carrying them, but the book is not among them. When I tell my poor blind peo ple, after one more snow, in the big council, that I did not bring the Book, no word will be spoken by our old men or by our young braves. One by one they will rise up and go out in silence. My people will die in darkness, and they will go on the long path to the other hunting grounds. No white man KBV. SAMUEL PARKER Early Life 27 will go with them and no white man's book will make the way plain. I have no more words." The young man, who was religiously inclined, wrote to his friends in the East an account of these Indians, their desires, and this address, and it was made public early in 1833, as a call from the "Wise men from the West." When it was first published, there were some who doubted, and some denied the truth of it, and even in the latter third of the century, there were some who denied the story. George Catlin, the cele brated painter of Indian portraits, had, however, seen it, and afterwards asked General Clark in regard to it, who said that it was true.1 When this story was made known in the East, it aroused the Christian people. The Methodist Episcopal Church soon invited Rev. Jason Lee, of Canada East, to take charge of the mission they proposed to establish in Oregon. In 1834, he with his nephew, Rev. Daniel Lee, Cyrus Shepherd and P. L. Edwards, crossed the continent in the company of N. J. Wyeth, and began work in the Willamette Valley. The call also attracted the attention of Rev. Samuel Parker, then in Middlefield, Mass. He had often thought of the region beyond the Rockies, and when he heard the story, it became a fire in his bones, so that he offered himself to the American Board to go to Oregon the same year.2 The offer was not, however, immediately accepted, and when it was, and Mr. Parker reached St. Louis, he found himself too late to join the annual fur traders' caravan of 1834. He returned, therefore, to the State of New York, to which he had recently moved, and spent the next winter in lecturing on Oregon, endeavoring to interest the churches in the work and to secure assistants. 1 Mr. Catlin had painted the portraits of these two young chiefs and had traveled two thousand miles with them on their return home. These portraits are now in the National Gallery of Portraits at Wash ington. The name of one was Hee-oh'ks-te-kin (The Rabbit Skin Leggings), and of the other H'co-a-h'co-a-cotes-min (No Horns on His Head). The latter died near the mouth of the Yellowstone River on his way home, the former alone reaching his people. — Cat- lin's North American Indian, pp. 561-2. 2 For a short sketch of Mr. Parker's life, see appendix "A." 28 Marcus Whitman Several persons promised to go, at least five, but of them all, only two ever started, and these were Dr. Whitman and his wife.1 Dr. Whitman was accepted by the Board to go in 1835 with Mr. Parker. He reached St. Louis about the first of April, and was joined a fe wdays later by his companion.2 Leaving St. Louis April 8th, they went up the Missouri, most of the way by steamer, until they reached Liberty, where they joined the annual caravan of the American Fur Company. Nothing of special note seems to have occurred until they reached the place of rendezvous on Green River, a branch of the Colorado, on the 18th of August, except that some employes of the Company became hostile to them, and declared their de termination to kill the missionaries because of their Sabbath- keeping and their temperance principles. When, however, the cholera broke out among them, Dr. Whitman's professional skill, together with Mr. Parker's nursing, were mainly instru mental in saving the lives of the men in the Company. At the rendezvous Dr. Whitman was called upon to perform some important surgical operations. He extracted an iron 1 Whether they were acquainted in 1834 or not seems to be un certain, but probably not. This is at least the impression of Dr. S. J. Parker, a son of Rev. Samuel Parker. He also thinks that his father wrote Dr. Whitman that he had better go and see her at her father's house, and that Mrs. Whitman said in Mr. Parker's parlor before leaving for Oregon: "We had to make love somewhat ab ruptly, and must do our courtship now that we are married." Mr. Parker's letter to his family in regard to it was dated December 5, 1834. In it he says: "I have found some missionaries. Dr. Whitman, of Wheeler, Steuben County, New York, has agreed to offer himself to the Board to go beyond the mountains. He has no family. Two ladies offer themselves, one a daughter of Judge Pren tiss, of Amity, Alleghany County, the other a Miss McCoy, of Cuba, offers herself; also one minister, very promising, except his health; also a Mr. Clark, and Rev. Samuel May, brother to Mrs. Powell." 2 It is not known that any journals of his, giving an account of any of his trips across the Continent, are in existence. Hence, in the accounts which will be hereafter given, most of the information is taken from journals and statements made by his companions, especial ly Messrs. Parker, Gray, Lovejoy, and some of the emigrants of 1843, and Mrs. Whitman. Early Life 29 arrowhead, three inches long, from the back of Captain Brid- ger, which he had received three years before in a skirmish with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a difficult operation, because the arrow was hooked at the point, and a cartilaginous sub stance had grown around it. The Doctor performed the oper ation with great self-possession and firmness, and his patient was equally firm. He also extracted from the shoulder of one of the hunters another arrow which had been there for two and a half years. His reputation having thus become favorably established, calls for medical and surgical aid were almost incessant.1 They remained at the rendezvous nine days, gaining all the information they could from traders, trappers and Indians. The prospect seemed to be so favorable that it was thought best for Dr. Whitman to return at once to obtain missionary help, instead of going on with Mr. Parker to assist in the explora tions and then return for the needed assistance. Mr. Parker was to go on with the Nez Perces and Flathead Indians to their countries ; visit the English trading posts on the Colum bia River; learn the prospects of the proposed mission field; the number and character of the Indian tribes; the character of the unknown country, its climate and soil ; the character of the Hudson's Bay Company, whether missionaries could depend on their friendship or not; whether bread and clothing could be obtained, or whether the missionaries would be compelled to depend on wild game, roots, berries and skins ; the next year he was to return to the rendezvous and make his report to Dr. Whitman and any associates he might bring to it. Dr. Whitman first proposed this plan, which would save a year in the work, but afterward he felt doubtful about leaving Mr. Parker to go on alone with the Indians. Mr. Parker, however, took the responsibility of the risk upon himself. On the 22nd of August they separated, not again to meet until 1843, when 1 This reputation proved to be of great assistance to the missionary party the next year, when the Fur Company seemed determined to run away from them and leave them to their fate in the wilderness. Dr. Whitman's reputation for kindness and skill seemingly turned the scale, and brought them at last the protection which they absolutely needed. 30 Marcus Whitman Dr. Whitman returned East on his great mission to save Ore gon. As Dr. Whitman returned East with the caravan, he took with him two Indian boys, Richard Tac-i-tu-i-tas and John I-tes, one of them the son of a chief. This was done on a promise "to return them in due time, alive and unharmed, to their friends and tribe, under penalty of his life." Dr. Whit man did it that he might show the American Board specimens of the aborigines of the country. He reached St. Louis Novem ber 4th, and after visiting New York City, returned to his home at Rushville late on Saturday night. He greatly sur prised the congregation the next morning by walking boldly into the Presbyterian Church, followed by his two Indian boys, without the least hint that he might be looked for. As they supposed him to be three thousand miles away, he produced a sensation that was fresh in the memory of many members of the congregation forty years afterwards.1 That winter Dr. Whitman spent in work for the American Board, in interesting the people in Indian missions, and in trying to obtain assistance for Oregon. It was necessary that a minister should be obtained, a" married man, and after a long search he secured in March Rev. H. H. Spalding and wife, then under appointment by the Board to the Osage Mission and on their way to it through the deep snow of Western New York.2 William H. Gray, of Utica, N. Y., completed the missionary band, augmented by Dr. Whitman's marriage. The wedding took place on the eve of starting. It was while laboring in a protracted meeting at Angelica that he had sought her as his companion, to share with him the toils and labors of a missionary life beyond the Rocky Mountains. He told her of the long, toilsome journey before they should reach their field of labor. Nothing daunted, she replied, "It is God's cause ; I will go." They were married in the church 1 Both boys went to school that winter, improved rapidly, and went with him the next spring to Oregon. After the death of Dr. Whitman, Richard was appointed Chief by Indian Agent H. A. G. Lee, but later was killed by another Indian. 2 For sketch of the lives of Messrs. Spalding and Gray, see ap pendix "B" and "C." BIRTHPLACE OF NABCISSA WHITMAN, PRATTSBURG, N. Y. CHURCH IN WHICH DB. AND MBS. WHITMAN WEBE MARRIED, 1836 Early Life 3 1 at Angelica, in February, 1836, the ceremony being performed by Rev. Everett Hull. She and her sister were members of the choir. The hymn, "Yes, my native land I love thee, All thy scenes I love them well, Friends, connections, happy country, Now, I bid you all farewell," was given out. The whole congregation joined in singing it, but before they were half through, one by one, they began to stop. Sobs were heard in the large audience, and the voice of Mrs. Whitman was the only one which held out unwavering to the close, she singing the last stanza alone. The hymn, "Gently, Lord, O gently lead us," was also sung, and the bene diction of all present followed those who were soon to leave. CHAPTER II. ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Early in March Dr. and Mrs. Whitman left home on their bridal tour of a few thousand miles. Through snow and mud, by sleigh and stage, they went to Pittsburg. From there they traveled by steamer to St. Louis, being joined by Rev. H. H. Spalding and wife at Cincinnati. It was their first intention to go far up the Missouri River by boat, as Lewis and Clark had done, but they failed in securing passage in a boat of the American Fur Company, and, therefore, had to make their journey entirely by land. While at St. LOuis, they secured the pledge of protection for their journey from the American Fur Company, who were then fitting out their annual expedition for the mountains. They went by boat to Liberty Landing, where Mr. Gray joined them. ^From this point Mr. Spalding started by land with the horses, cattle and two wagons for Council Bluffs, while Dr. Whitman waited with the women and goods for the Company's boat. After some days the boat passed, purposely leaving them behind. Because of this bad faith he was obliged to send forward to Mr. Spalding for horses, and then the very serious question arose whether they could overtake the Company, which by that time had four or five days the start of them. It was a desperate race, but they won it. Dr. Whitman had the four-horse farm wagon; Mr. Spalding the light two-horse wagon, and Mr. Gray, with the help of the two Indian boys, took charge of the horses, mules and cows. Late in May they overtook the Company on the Loup Fork, which was about as far as it was safe for the missionary band to travel without protection. From this place they moved on well until they reached Fort Laramie. Here the Fur Company had been accustomed to leave their carts, but Dr. Whitman was determined on account of the ladies to take one of the wagons Across the Continent 33 farther. The Company decided to try the experiment with him, as it would be for their interest in the future to take carts farther, and they took one of their carts along, putting Dr. Whitman in charge of both. The first day they had some difficulty because of fallen timber in the river bottom, but at night the Doctor came into camp puffing and blowing, in good spirits, right side up, having upset the wagon only once, and the cart but twice. The next day the Company gave him two additional men to assist in ex ploring and locating the road and getting over the difficult places. The day they reached Independence Eock there was a thrill ing episode. The caravan came near being run over by a heavy herd of buffalo, which were hidden by the hills until the travel ers were close upon them, and suddenly stampeded. The cara van, which was about two miles long, closed up as fast as pos sible, and the guard and every man that could be spared dashed out upon the head of the column of buffalo pouring down from the hills as if there were no end to it. On they came, in spite of many rifles pouring powder and balls into them trying to turn them off. The head of the column seemed about to strike the caravan amidships, and the men, still striving to turn aside the buffalo, were actually mingling with the travelers. The horses and mules were snorting and bounding to break their lines and be off, and it seemed as if nothing could save the party from being trampled to death or stripped of their ani mals. But at last kind Providence interposed, the leaders yielded to the shower of balls, turned to the right, and the living torrent of "God's cattle upon a thousand hills" swept alongside the caravan with eyes gleaming fire, uttering a ter rible, unearthly groan, and causing the earth to tremble by the tramp of their countless thousands, leaving a dozen or so lying dead on the ground. "The scene," says Mr. Spalding, "was fearful, thrilling and grand beyond the power of language." Mrs. Spalding's health was very poor much of the way, especially after reaching the buffalo country, for after that there was no bread, no food but buffalo meat, and it did not agree with her. Sometimes she seemed to eat nothing, but to subsist on the odor of camphor and spirits of turpentine and 34 Marcus Whitman of the sage brush filling the air. Once she fainted. Then she was taken from her horse, laid down, fanned until she revived, and then was placed on her horse again, weeping and saying, "Oh, that I had one crust of bread from my mother's swill pail." Again she begged to be left to the Indians. "I cannot sit upon that horse in this. burning sun any longer. Oh, this sickness, this terrible pain." She said to her husband, "I can not live much longer. Go on and save yourself, and carry the Book of God to those Indians. I shall never see them; my work is done, but bless God, he has brought me thus far. Tell my mother I am not sorry that I came." July 4th they entered the South Pass of the Eocky Moun tains, the dividing line between the Atlantic and Pacific Slopes. There, on Independence Day, they alighted from their horses, and, kneeling down, with the Bible and the American flag in their hands, they took possession of the Pacific Coast as the home of American mothers and for the Church of Christ. They thanked God for His sustaining, protecting care over them, for the buffalo food sent to them daily, and humbly commended themselves, especially Mrs. Spalding, in her sinking, feeble state, to His protecting care for the rest of the journey. "And standing as we did," says Mr. Spalding, "upon the summit of those sky-built mountains, with the bright forms of Brainerd, of Butler, of Elliott, and Worcester, early missionaries to the Indians on the Atlantic shores, almost in sight, bending over the pearly gates of Heaven to bid us God speed, we especially commended and consecrated our mission, to be commenced somewhere in the yet far-off West, to Him who had sent four Indians from beyond the mountains to the rising sun, with the Macedonian cry for the Book of God and missionaries to teach it. The moral and physical scene was grand and thrilling. Hope and joy beamed on the face of my dear wife, though pains racked her frame. She seemed to receive new strength. 'Is it a reality or a dream,' she exclaimed, 'that after four months of hard and painful journeyings I am alive, and actually standing on the summit of the Eocky Mountains, where yet the foot of white woman has never trod ?' There were no mar tial hosts, no fife and drum, no booming cannon, no orator of the day, nor reading of the Declaration of Independence, but Odao Across the Continent 35 there have been few more memorable or prophetic scenes than that when they took possession of the Pacific Coast 'in the name of God and the United States.' " From Independence Eock an express had been sent forward announcing the movements of the caravan and the time it ex pected to reach the rendezvous. This information reached not only the trappers and traders but also the Indians, and conse quently a few of the Nez Perces and Flathead Indians came on to welcome the missionaries. They met them on the even ing of the fourth, where they were camped on the Little Sandy, a tributary of Green Eiver, two days before their arrival at the rendezvous. Among them were Tak-ken-su4-tas (Eotten Belly) and Is-hol-hol-hoats-hoats (Lawyer) with a letter from Mr. Parker. The letter told them of his kind reception by the In dians, of the arrival of Eev. Jason Lee and party, and of his kind treatment by the Hudson's Bay Company, who, however, were really opposed to American influence in the country, es pecially in the way of trade. The letter was not very satisfac tory, for Mr. Parker was evidently afraid he might write some thing which would be detrimental to the mission work, through the influence of the Hudson's Bay Company. The Indians were very happy when they saw that Dr. Whitman and their own boys had returned, and that with them were a minister, the la dies, and the cattle. They wanted to know if the Book of God was there also, and stated that they had come to welcome them and assist them in going to the Indian country. They wished the missionaries to promise to go directly there. On the evening of July 6 they arrived at the rendezvous. This was really any place in the Eocky Mountains, previously agreed upon, where the fur companies, traders, trappers and Indians of various tribes met for trade, and where, for the time, there was to be peace among all parties, however hostile they might be at other times and places. From it each fur com pany returned to its own side of the mountains, not daring to infringe on the territory of the other. This year the rendez vous was on Green Eiver, a branch of the Colorado. Here the trappers had been about twelve days when the missionaries ar rived, and here the Nez Perces came to meet them in large num bers, giving them the hand with a hearty welcome as they rode 36 Marcus Whitman by. There were a large band of young women with their raven black hair in two plaits, and white dresses of goat skins, orna mented with glass beads and haiqua shells (the native money), glistening in the shining sun. Eiding gracefully, with a plain tive song and smiling countenances, these gave the white women such a hearty shake of the hand as to almost make them forget that they were in a land of savages. The older women and children came next, fully enveloping their white sisters, not satisfied until they had taken them from their horses and saluted them with a kiss. Lastly, the mountain men and free trappers came, wishing to see the white women, as many of them had not seen one for years, since they had been in the mountains. "From that day," said one of them, as he thought of the home of his early childhood, of his mother and his sisters and purity, "I was a better man." Mrs. Spald ing soon became favorite with the Indian women, for she paid them the more attention, and also possibly because of her poor health, for which they pitied her. Mrs. Whitman, on the other hand, seemed to have more influence over the mountain men, to whom she paid the more attention. They were rough men who appreciated the education and refined manners of the daughter of Judge Prentiss. The rough old mountain hunter would touch his hat in a way absolutely ridiculous, often even failing to express the compliment intended, which the mischief or good humor of Mrs. Whitman sometimes enjoyed as a good joke. The influence which she exerted over them was felt in the wildest regions long after her death. It was well that each of the women worked silently on a different class of persons, for they thus undoubtedly did far more good than they could have done had both been popular with the same class. Here were four or five hundred mountain men and about fifteen tribes of Indians. There were three classes of the whites; first, those permanently connected with the fur com panies, who usually either came from the settlements and re turned to them each year, or perhaps wintered at some fort where they had regular duties; second, the regular employes of the fur companies, who were hired to pack to the mountains, trap one, two or more years, as they should choose, and return when they wished to the settlements, the furs they obtained Across the Continent 37 when thus trapping being sold to the company which employed them ; third, the free trappers, who hunted on their own hook, went and came as they pleased, and sold their furs where they could get the best prices. On account of the dangers to which they were exposed, especially from the Indians, their average life in the mountains was only about four and a half years; but notwithstanding the dangers it was a wild and free life, foil of adventure, and very attractive to some men. On the third day a grand review of the Indians was given. We give it mainly in Mr. Spalding's words.1 "A national salute was given to the whites by the several nations. The Blackfeet tribe led off and fairly won the ad miration of the whites by their war equipments and fearfully painted horses, black or yellow, red or white, according to the natural color of the horse. Next followed the Nez Perces and Flathead tribes, who received equal applause for their masterly horsemanship, very natural sham fights, and their national airs consisting of a few striking words oft repeated, but sung in a plaintive tone, in which they were joined by a large band of young women, riding in an extended column behind, their wonderfully sweet voices keeping most excellent time, floating far through the air, their dresses profuse with heavy bands of white and blue cut glass beads, alternated with bands of mother-of pearl and haiqua shells, brilliant in the sunbeams, their saddles rising in front and behind — natural and impor tant supports — and their heavy cruppers and breast bands of the finest blue or scarlet red, elaborately decorated and hung with hawk-bells and steel-top thimbles and fine bead work, hung with phylacteries of elk teeth and tin coils, producing a regular, loud, but not harsh jingle as their fiery steeds pranced slowly along, seemingly unconscious, not only of their own fiery dispositions, but of their female riders. "Several days were taken up with the reviews of one tribe after another. By general consent each tribe was afforded suf ficient time and a fair opportunity for their display. Although 1 "Oregon States Rights Democrat," 1867. 38 Marcus Whitman there was some difference in the songs and equipments of the different tribes, the more hostile ones presenting the most wild and furious spectacle, yet the general order was the same. After silence had settled down for a few minutes, the attention would be suddenly called to a cavalcade of horsemen coming in sight around a point of timber or hill and sweeping out upon the plains, moving forward in a slow trot or prance, presenting an extended and unbroken breast many columns deep, every horseman, except the women, without saddles, and riding upon a mountain panther or medicine wolf skin, thrown loosely over the horse, twenty or thirty of the war chiefs or warriors, upon their best horses, painted fearfully, and some wearing buffalo horns and bear's claws, sweeping up and down in front of the long column, haranguing in a loud and distinct voice, some of the tribe nearly naked with buffalo horns upon their heads and silver fox skins at their heels; most of them with buckskin shirts and moccasins elaborately decorated with fine beads and porcupine quills, and with full grown white wolf or panther skins streaming in full length behind them, and with wild war caps of eagle feathers, black, with red tips, extending far be hind—all streaming and gleaming fearfully in the air, as these Jehus would sweep up and down, now brandishing their spears or muskets, and bows, and now balancing them high over their heads; now wheeling and cross-riding; now throwing them selves on one side of the horse, and wheeling and throwing themselves upon the other side, and darting the spear under and before the horse's breast ; and all accompanied by the con stant pounding of a great number of Eocky Mountain gongs, or Indian drums, the terrific screams of a number of whistles made of the leg-bone of the gray eagle and swan, the constant jingle of the medicine rattle box, and the heavy clang of the hawk-bells, tin coil, bear claws, and human bones trimmed with human scalps, hanging upon every horse — interrupted now and then by a terrific battle yell, rounding off in a vibrating war- whoop, almost sufficient to curdle the blood in our veins. In the center, and a little in advance, is seen an aged and pat riarchal one, wearing an American coat and hat, and bearing in one hand the American flag, and in the other an enormous calumet, or the great pipe of peace. PORT LARAMIE Si^%2£B ¦**%' B5a«flwfe3&aiSs INDEPENDENCE BOCK Across the Continent 39 "At a sufficient distance the white men and friendly tribes are gathered round, forming three sides of the great ring, while the hostile tribes in close squads, each under their own strong guard, form the other side. As the flag reaches within twenty rods of the great stone house, the old man stops; the young women close up and continue their singing, and with the strong watch continue stationary, while the warriors and young men engage in a sham battle, the American leaders standing in the door of the store, also holding the American flag. Suddenly the horsemen collect near the flag, and in an instant this great throng of horses, thickly crowded together, stands empty and quiet, their riders gone for the instant; but as if by magic, and before the eye can follow them, they are seen already col lected in a thick group near by, bounding up and down in the scalp dance, all as one being, first upon one leg and then the other, taking three steps, keeping the most perfect time with the beat of the drum and the voice of the singers. "Suddenly the flag drops and all is still. The old man ap proaches the white captain, the hand of friendship is extended, the pipe of peace passed around, and in a few moments the beaver belonging to that tribe begins to come in from the rear, and pack after pack is thrown down at the old patriarch's feet, who does the trading for this tribe. The price of each skin and the goods are fixed, and the articles required are handed to the old man as fast' as four or five clerks can attend to them, and he again hands the articles back into the crowd to whom they belong. "This tribe retires amid the shouts of the white crowd, to give place to another tribe, except perhaps the scalp dance is sometimes prolonged to give a late successful warrior an oppor tunity to act over again his bloody contest with his fallen foe, and exhibit the number of real scalps he had taken, while the enemy he had thus afflicted are looking on with sullen counte nances, waiting to turn the tables next day upon this warrior and his tribe, by exhibiting an equal or greater number of scalps which they had taken in some battle. "The mountaineers seemed to adopt very readily the man- 40 Marcus Whitman ners, dress, habits and even the gestures and walk of the In dian. A greater compliment could not be paid to a free trap per than to persuade him that he had been mistaken for an Indian brave. His hair, suffered to attain full length, is care fully combed out, and suffered to fall carelessly over his should ers, or plaited and tied up with otter or white weasel skin. A hunting shirt of buckskin, with heavy phylacteries and cir cles of porcupine quills, falls to his knees, below which, leggings of the same, closely fitted to his calves, and beautifully orna mented with fine beads and heavy fringes, reaches to a pair of moccasins curiously wrought with scarlet beads and porcu pine quills. His blanket is girt about him with a red sash or otter skin, in which is bestowed his pipe, knife, and tobacco pouch, the latter wrought with beads. His gun is lavishly decorated with brass tacks, vermillion, and eagle's feathers. His horse, the noble minister to the pride, profit, pleasure, and often safety of the mountaineer, is often caparisoned in the most dashing and fantastic style. His Indian wife, with her horse, selected for his prancing, and her saddle and baby cradle, are still more elaborately and expensively decorated with pounds of white and black beads, haiqua shells and tin coils, elk teeth and hawk-bells, finger rings and heavy brace lets, steel top thimbles and cut-glass beads, all glistening in the sunbeams and producing a cheery jingling, as she gallops alongside of her American 'hama' (man) ; their babe lashed in its cradle, and swung to the forehorn of her saddle, while two white parflesh portfolios, beautifully decorated with painted figures, and heavy phylacteries, containing her root- stick, fire steel, sinews, awl, kimp and other necessaries, are hung to the hind one. "The yearly rendezvous was a hey-dey for these modern nimrods. They would collect together at the place appointed, and await the arrival of the traders' caravan with watchful anxiety, and greet the newcomers (pork-eaters) with a hearty good cheer. They would entertain each other for hours with prodigious tales of wonders seen and wonders endured ; of In dian fights, narrow escapes, and comrades scalped; of fated decoys, by means of Indians dressed in elk skins and apparent- Across the Continent 41 ly feeding about ; of starvations ; of buffalo hunts and buffalo feasts ; of climbing snow mountains and carrying sweet cotton- wood back to keep their animals from perishing ; of swimming ice-floating rivers with packs on their backs in search of beaver signs; of Balaamite mules, up to Indians in ambush; of beaver up to trap of the luck stream, where he is brought to medicine. The eventful hours were also relieved by a display of horsemanship, in all their gay and fluttering attire; by horse races and foot races ; by wrestling, jumping and pound ing noses ; by boasting and counter-boasting. "In the meantime a brisk trade is kept up; the log stores of the company or rival companies are thronged late and early till beaver are gone, credit gone, whisky gone, grass gone, stores emptied, and the appointed day to break up camp dawns, when suddenly the narrow valley of the Green Eiver for ten miles is all alive with horses and mules and human beings. The thou sands, perhaps tens of thousands of horses are driven into their several camps and horse pens, lodge poles taken down, lodges rolled up and packed, beaver bales packed, and pack saddles on the mules, and the long cavalcade for St. Louis impatient to be in motion ; the hearty shake of the hand and soul invigorat ing 'God bless you' goes around. The home-bound partner gives the signal by firing his piece, followed instantly by a thousand volleys. The Canadians lead off in that soul-vivify ing Canadian boat song, followed by the Mexican, the English, and the many Indian tongues. As these many natives and languages start off in all directions, the home-bound caravan for the rising sun, the Indian tribes for their distant' mountain homes; the mountain trappers moving camp with them, or collecting in small bands, move off to choice trapping fields in the secluded glens of the distant dark mountains, to live over again their life of peril, danger, starvation and feasting, and to come together again with numbers greatly reduced by other sleepless foes. And the romantic valley relapses into its pristine stillness and solitude." Such is Mr. Spalding's description of life at the American rendezvous in 1836, when the missionary party were there. 42 Marcus Whitman After they had been at this place a few days, Captain Na thaniel Wyeth appeared, direct from the Columbia.1 He was on his way East with a party of the Hudson's Bay Company under Thomas McKay and John McLeod. He gave the missionaries far more information than they had gained from Mr. Parker's letters and all other sources. He told them that there were thousands of bushels of wheat raised around the Company's forts; and that there were flour mills at Col- ville and Vancouver; that Vancouver contained shops and stores where the necessaries of life could be obtained; and that, while the Company would resist all interference in the fur trade by Americans, yet as the missionaries had their wives along, and had come for the purpose of Christianizing the Indians, they would probably be very kindly received and aided in every reasonable way. He soon introduced them to Messrs. McLeod and McKay, and advised the missionaries to put themselves under the protection of these gentlemen when they should return to the Columbia. This was welcome intelli gence to the missionaries, who did not know how they were to manage for the rest of the journey, unless they were to join some band of Indians and perhaps winter in the mountains. This arrival seemed to them the more providential because pre vious to this time the Hudson's Bay Company had not been accustomed to send their traders to this place of rendezvous. 1 He had first crossed the Continent in 1832 with the view of trad ing in furs and canning salmon on the Lower Columbia. He sent a ship around Cape Horn, but it was never heard from, and the enter prise proved to be a failure for that year. He then returned East and in 1834 sent another vessel around the Horn, while he crossed the continent, starting with seventy men (Rev. Jason Lee had been in his company at this time). He built Fort Hall, then went to the mouth of the Columbia, where he met his vessel, and built Fort William on Sauvie's Island. He was fairly in the country of the Hudson's Bay Company, and they built Fort Boise, where they un dersold him. His enterprise on Sauvie's Island proved a failure, and he found himself obliged to sell out to the Company in 1837, although he returned East in 1836, after having lost a fortune of thirty thousand dollars. His was the end of all American efforts in the fur trade west of the Rocky Mountains. To use his expression, he "had been politely bowed out of the country" by the superior advantages of the Hudson's Bay Company. Across the Continent 43 Messrs. McKay and McLeod did all that Captain Wyeth ex pected they would in assisting the missionary band. They chose the best route for them, especially for the ladies, as sisted them in regard to food, and accommodated their march to that of the cattle, wagon and ladies of the missionaries. When Captain Bridger, the famous mountaineer, said good-bye at this rendezvous to Dr. Whitman, he thanked the Doctor very heartily for extracting an arrow-head from his backbone the year before, and promised to send his half-breed daughter, Mary Ann, to Dr. Whitman's mission when she should be old enough. This promise he fulfilled, and she remained at the Doctor's as long as he lived. All parties except the Indians advised Dr. Whitman to leave his wagon at this place, but he was determined to take it along. The Indians, getting some of his spirit, assisted him in finding a wagon road. Messrs. McLeod and McKay said that they didaiot believe it possible to take a wagon through the rugged mountains of the Bear Eiver and the volcanic burning sand deserts of the Snake Country, though they would select the possible passes and give him a chance to settle the question whether wagons, women and cattle could be taken through the "great and terrible wilderness." From Soda Springs to Fort Hall was the most difficult part of the way, jet the Doctor persevered. Mr. Gray, after traveling the same road again, says he does not see how it was done. At Fort Hall an assistant of the missionary party, Miles Goodyear, a boy of sixteen, determined to leave the party if the Doctor should go farther with the wagon. The Doctor did not give up, so Goodyear left. Advice was strong against taking the wagon farther, largely on account of this loss of help, and partly on account of this advice a compromise was effected. The wagon was made into a cart, the extra wheels and axle- tree were packed on the cart, and Dr. Whitman proceeded. In crossing Snake Eiver, the cart and mules were both up set in the river, and the mules, becoming entangled in the har ness, came near being drowned, but their ever-present angel, Thomas McKay, went to their relief as quickly as possible on a strong horse. With the help of a lasso rope and two strong horses, with two men swimming behind to steady it, he at last 44 Marcus Whitman took it ashore, to the great joy of Mrs. Whitman, who saw her husband struggling in the waters.1 When they reached Fort Boise, Mr. McKay stopped, as he was in charge of the Fort. He and Mr. McLeod and others of the Company told the Doctor that it was impossible to take the wagon farther unless he should take it to pieces, bend the iron tires, and pack it on mules, with the danger even then of losing a part of it by the mules and their loads falling down precipices. After some consultation the Doctor com promised the matter by agreeing to leave it, with the under standing that he or Mr. Gray should return and get it after the mission should be located.2 For a time after reaching the rendezvous Mrs. Spalding continued to grow weaker. The following is from her journal : "July 8. My illness rather increases, but all is in the hands of my Saviour, who knows and will do what is for the best. I am happy to sink into his will concerning what awaits me." The next day Captain Dripps found somewhere a handful of dried apple and a little flour, and brought them to her. Her stomach retained this food, and the fever left her. The Indians also brought her dried kamas root biscuit which she could eat, and she began to recover. Salmon were afterwards obtained, and with other meat beside buffalo she regained her strength so that she made the rest of the journey comfortably. Thrice she had very narrow escapes from death. The first was in the Bear Eiver Valley. The Indian hunters had started some antelope, and all, antelope and Indians yelling after their 1 Some years later the Doctor, by his medical skill, saved his de liverer from a serious disease. Still later, this friend left his home in the Willamette with a company of men to avenge the massacre at Walla Walla. 2 The wagon was made at Holland Patent, New York, for Mr. and Mrs. Spalding, when they expected to work among the Osage Indians, and started with that intention. Mr. Spalding made the bed, cover, and some of the running gear with his own hands. With the snow about five feet deep when he left, he placed the bed on runners and hauled the wheels until they reached ground, but finding no reliable bottom, it was put on board the steamer at Pittsburg and taken to Liberty, Missouri. It is probable that to the day of its death it remained at Fort Boise. FOBT BOISE, Exterior FORT BOISE, Inlerior Across the Continent 45 prey, with feathers and flags streaming in the air, flew through the train, frightening the mules which were hitched to the wagon driven by Mr. Spalding. The mules broke into a run towards the horse which Mrs. Spalding was riding and which was taking everything quietly. There was a crash and a stifled scream. Mr. Spalding struck the ground, stopped pulling, and immediately the mules stopped. He got up and saw his wife's horse getting up, but she lay motionless on the ground. He raised her, and to his joy found her not much hurt, only jarred ; but how she and the horse could have been knocked down and run over by the cart with so little injury was very strange. Only a kind Providence preserved her. Again, the day they left Fort Hall her horse, a perfectly gentle animal, stepped into a wasps' nest and jumped and kicked violently. She was thrown on her head and shoulders, with her foot hanging in the stirrup. Thomas McKay, riding near, first sprang to her relief, with his rifle drawn, ready to shoot the horse should he attempt to run, but he did not. No bones were broken, and she was able to move on by being placed in the wagon. At the crossing of Snake Eiver, August 14th, too, Mrs. Spalding had a dangerous experience. The river was about a thousand feet wide, divided by two islands into three channels. Usually it was too deep to ford, but at this time the tallest American horses were about nine inches above water. The two tallest were selected for the women and led by two French men. It was necessary to cross one channel diagonally up stream. As they reached the middle of the channel and her horse leaned heavily against the water, her head began to swim and she to fall into the water. "In an instant more," says Mr. Spalding, "her fate would be sealed. No human arm could overtake and rescue her from the broad, sweeping flood. I yelled, 'Look at those deer coming down that mountain ; we will have meat for supper.' She righted immediately, and 1 instantly replied, 'Keep your eye on that mountain, and let it not look at the water again or you are lost !' She understood me, and said she saw no more of the river till they reached the shore all safe." Through such dangers these first two women journeyed to 46 Marcus Whitman Oregon, and it was not strange that Mr. Spalding wrote to the Home Board, "Never send another woman over those moun tains, if you have any regard for human life." But the deed was done, never to be undone, and two years later, four more women followed, other missionary women for two years more, and then the emigrants. Still, it was a mighty undertaking for them. At Cincin nati and St. Louis, mountain men pronounced the undertaking scarcely less than manslaughter, and suggested the idea of stopping Mrs. Spalding and Mrs. Whitman by the civil author ities. George Catlin, who had spent many years among the tribes of the Upper Missouri in painting Indians and Indian scenes, said that they could not take the women through. The hostile Indians that hover about the convoy would fight against any odds to capture them. One woman tried it, but the com pany was massacred, and she was dragged away and never heard of again. They were told that strong men, of the parties of Hunt, Henry and Bonneville, had suffered stupendous hardships, had lost their horses, had starved, had been com pelled to live on rosebuds and old horse hides nearly all winter in getting through, had arrived in small parties, mere skele tons, barefoot and nearly naked; that some had perished out right; that others had been left, too weak to go on, and had been picked up by the Digger Indians, who were themselves al most starving on a scanty supply of cakes made of roots and black crickets — to be found the next year by their companions. After they were well on their way, and saw how weak Mrs. Spalding was, Captains Sublette and Fitzpatrick united in re monstrance against her proceeding farther, saying that she could not live to get through to the Columbia; that after she should leave the rendezvous they would be in a hostile Crow and Blackfoot country, with no probability of meeting any traders there who would conduct them through; that then they would be obliged to go with the Nez Perces by their route, which would lead them, in order to get buffalo meat for the year, through the Wind Eiver, Salmon Eiver and Bitter Eoot Mountains, probably to be caught in the snow; that the Crows and Blackfeet would fight to get possession of them, for they were always at war with Across the Continent 47 the Nez Perces and Flatheads, who were continually losing people and horses in these conflicts. Mr. Spalding, at Fort Laramie, urged her to remain there until the Fur Company should return, and then to go back with them to the Osage Indians, and enter upon that work. But all this did not move her. Mrs. Spalding said, "What mean ye to weep and break my heart, for I am ready not to be bound only, but to die at Jerusalem or in the Eocky Mountains, if need be, for the name of the Lord Jesus." "Duty is mine ; my life, my strength, the dangers of the way are His." "I like the command just as it is, 'Go ye into all the world,' and no exceptions for poor health." In her journal she wrote: "June 10. I have been quite unwell for several days, and I attribute my illness wholly to change of diet, which has been from necessity. Our dependence for food is buffalo meat through the remainder of our journey, which we do not expect will end until September, if even then. But I am resolved not to feel anxious about what awaits me, for my destiny is in the hands of Him who doeth all things well." "June 21. This day we leave this post (Laramie). Only He who knows all things knows whether this dilapidated frame will survive the undertaking. His will, not mine, be done." Eev. Jason Lee, after personally examining the whole route, pronounced it, as all other travelers had done, impossible for a white woman to endure its hardships and dangers, and sent for his women missionaries to come around Cape Horn. Two weeks after Mrs. Spalding and Mrs. Whitman had started this opinion of Mr. Lee reached the East. Says Mr. Spalding: "Had our wives seen this opinion of Mr. Lee, they would have been deterred, and had they come at all, they would doubt less have come around Cape Horn." He also adds, "These feeble women were selected of God to settle the question by their own sacrifices and trials and hardships that white women and wagons and cattle could cross the mountains. The gold of California and of the world could not have induced them to undertake what they did. But God knew the power that would move them. He brought a single short sentence from 48 Marcus Whitman the words of Jesus, 'Go teach all nations,' to bear upon their minds, and, behold, the stupendous national results." We must also remember, as has already been stated, that it was on account of the women that Dr. Whitman determined to take the wagon on from Fort Laramie — the wagon which first fairly went into Oregon, and prepared the way for the first emigra tion by wagon. Mr. Gray, in his History of Oregon, gives the following de scription of Dr. and Mrs. Whitman at this time : "Dr. Whit man was a man of easy, don't-care habits, that could become all things to all men, and yet a sincere and earnest man, speaking his mind before he thought a second time, giving his views on all subjects without much consideration, correcting them and changing them, when good reasons presented, and, when fixed in the pursuit of an object, adhering to it with unflinching tenacity. A stranger would consider him fickle and stubborn, yet he was sincere and kind, and generous to a fault, devoting every energy of his mind and body to the welfare of the In dians and objects of the mission, seldom manifesting fears of any danger that might surround him. At times he would become animated and earnest in his argument or conversation. In his profession he was a bold practitioner, and generally successful. He was above medium height, of spare habit, pe culiar hair, a portion being white and dark brown, so that it might be called iron-gray, deep blue eyes, and large mouth. He could accommodate himself to circumstances, such as dipping the water from the running stream with his hand to drink, cut and eat his food with only a hunter's knife; in fact, could rough it without qualms of stomach. "Mrs. Whitman was a lady of refined feelings and com manding appearance ; she had very light hair, light sandy com plexion. Her features were large, her form full and round. At the time she arrived in the country in the prime of life she was considered a fine, noble-looking woman, and free to con verse with all she met. Her conversation was affable and cheerful. Firmness with her was natural, and to some, es pecially the Indians, it was repulsive. She had been brought Across the Continent 49 up in comparative comfort, and moved in the best religious society in the place of her residence. She was a good singer, and one of her amusements, as well as that of her traveling companions, was to teach the Doctor to sing, which she did with considerable success; that is, he could sing the native songs without much difficulty. The mountain men thought she was a woman of too much refinement to be thrown away on Indians, and that she must have had considerable romance in her disposition to have undertaken such an expedition with such a common, kind, good-hearted fellow as the Doctor." On the 2nd of September they reached Fort Walla Walla, one of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts. At Fort Walla Walla (now Wallula) they were received with extra demon strations. These must have been seen to have been realized. ''The gates of the Fort were thrown open," says Mr. Gray, in his History of Oregon, "the ladies assisted from their horses, and every demonstration of joy and respect manifested. The party were soon led into an apartment — the best the establish ment had to offer. Their horses and mules were unloaded and cared for, the cattle were not neglected. It appeared we had arrived among the best of friends, instead of total strangers, and were being welcomed in the most cordial man ner. We found the gentleman in charge, Mr. P. C. Pambrun, a French Canadian by birth, all that we could wish, and more than we expected." The choice game of the prairies, well- cooked, a small supply of potatoes, corn, and a few melons was a great and agreeable change from the dried and pounded buffalo meat on which the party had mainly lived for a long time. After a few days they went down the Columbia to Vancouver, where they were received with still greater demon strations of joy than at Walla Walla. A special table was prepared, called the ladies' table, at which Governor McLough lin or the next highest officer of the Fort usually presided. The wives of the governor and chief clerk at first were not permitted to eat with them, as there was too much native blood in their veins, and so it was felt that they were not sufficiently accomplished. Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. Spalding, however, soon learned the family connections, and introducing them- 50 Marcus Whitman selves to the two principal mothers of the Fort not long after, in opposition to the wishes of their husbands, brought them to the table, with the youngest daughter of the Governor. They took considerable pains to make themselves generally useful, so that when, at the end of two weeks, the men of the mission determined to return east of the Cascades to select their sta tions and homes, the Governor would not allow the ladies to depart until the men should first go and do the preliminary work. Here Dr. Whitman received his first insight into the monop oly which the Hudson's Bay Company held. When he inquired about obtaining cattle from the Company, he was told that he could have them on the same terms that other settlers ob tained them. This was to take wild oxen, break them, use them until the Company required them, and then return them ; to take cows, use the milk, and return the cows and their in crease, and, in case one should get lost or killed, to replace it from the mission band ; for there were no cattle in the country at that time except those owned by the Company and the few that the missionaries had just brought. Dr. Whitman con cluded not to mortgage the few he had in that way. Dr. Whitman was in favor of beginning work on the Co lumbia Eiver, at the mouth of the Cowlitz, below Vancouver, but, on account of the influence of the Company, and the in structions of the Home Board, it was thought best to locate east of the Cascades. In two weeks after their arrival the gentlemen of the mission, together with Mr. Pambrun, who had come from Walla Walla with them, went up the Columbia, by way of exploration. Dr. Whitman and Mr. Gray liked The Dalles, but Mr. Spalding and Mr. Pambrun opposed it. Dr. Whitman's idea was that there were many Indians at The Dalles, as it was a great fishery, and that if a mission were established there, a ship could come from Boston so near to them that the mission would be independent in time. This was plainly what the Hudson's Bay Company did not want, for it might in time lead to the undermining of the Company's power and profits. The Company urged the establishment of stations farther up the Columbia, and promised to furnish Across the Continent 51 the supplies necessary for the mission without the need of a special ship.1 Dr. McLoughlin gave them an order on Fort Colville for all the grain and wheat they should need for two years, expect ing, after that, that they would be able to raise their own wheat and build their own mill. It was also for the Com pany's interests to oppose a mission on the Cowlitz, for they did not want any Americans to settle on the north side of the Columbia. They believed that if England should not obtain all of Oregon the Columbia would be the dividing line, and they felt that it might jeopardize England's interests, and with her's those of the Hudson's Bay Company, if Americans made settlements of any kind in that region. In regard to a station at The Dalles they also stated that the Indians there were the worst in the region, because they held the gateway between the regions east and west of the Cascade Mountains, and so could charge a heavy toll, and were much addicted to thieving. This was true. Still, Dr. Whit man's ideas were correct, for a few years later the Methodists established a mission at the place, which proved to be their most successful one by far ; the only one they did not close up in 1845, and which Dr. Whitman bought in 1847 just before his death. But the ideas of Mr. Pamburn and the Company prevailed at that time and the men proceeded up the river. Dr. Whitman's station was selected on the Walla Walla Eiver, at the mouth of Mill Creek, six miles from the present city of Walla Walla, and twenty-five from the Hudson's Bay Company's fort of that name. It was named Wai4-lat-pu, "the place of rye grass." A house was soon built, the mission horses, cattle and goods brought there, and Mr. Gray left in charge, while Mr. Spalding and Dr. Whitman went to the Nez Perces country to select a station for Mr. Spalding. Dr. 1 This promise was thoroughly fulfilled as long as the mission lasted. All that the missionaries had to do was to make out their orders for goods, which were sent by the Company to England, and were paid for by drafts on the American Board. Generally, too, when these goods arrived by ship at Vancouver, the Company sent them up the Columbia as far as Fort Walla Walla at a very reasonable charge for freight. 52 Marcus Whitman Whitman then returned to his station to erect more buildings, and Mr. Spalding went to Vancouver for the ladies. He pro cured an outfit valued at over a thousand dollars, clothing, bedding, material for building and farming, medicines, Indian goods and the like, and with the ladies, with whom, however, Dr. McLoughlin was quite loth to part, left Vancouver, Novem ber 3rd, arriving at Fort Walla Walla on the 13th. Here they were met by a large party of Nez Perces, who in council granted Mr. Spalding, according to a promise made at the American rendezvous, a title to the Lapwai ' mission station as a home for himself and wife for life. Soon afterward Mr. Spalding and wife left for that place, where they arrived November 29th. They had to camp in a lodge made of buffalo skins until December 23rd, when their house was so far fin ished that they moved into it. After remaining about three weeks at the Fort at Mr. Pam- burn's earnest request, Mrs. Whitman reached her home at Wai-i-lat-pu on the 10th of December. There she found, as a result of the Doctor's labors, a house and lean-to enclosed, with a good chimney and fireplace and the floor laid; but with no doors or windows (except blankets), nor bedstead, chairs or table, or anything from which to make them except green Cot tonwood, and all boards to be sawed by hand. The long bridal tour was ended, and they were ready to receive callers. She was happy, and wrote, "Where are we now, and who are we that we should be thus blessed of the Lord? I can scarcely realize that we are thus comfortably fixed and keep ing house, so soon after our marriage, when considering what was then before us." Besides Mr. and Mrs. Spalding, who were about ninety miles distant, their nearest missionary neighbors were the Methodists in the Willamette Valley, near where Salem now is, about three hundred and fifty miles away. There were four men, Eev. Jason Lee, P. L. Edwards, Eev. Daniel Lee, and Cyrus Shepherd. These had crossed the Continent in 1834 and begun mission work, having established a school called "The Oregon Mission Manual Labor School," where some dozens of Indian children were in attendance. They had sent for rein forcements to come by way of Cape Horn, and these had Across the Continent 53 started, but had not yet arrived. They were noble pioneers, who then and there laid the foundations of what proved to be the first American settlement on the Pacific Coast, and laid it, providentially and fortunately, with Christianity at the center. Besides these neighbors there were the Hudson's Bay Com pany's forts; Boise, about two hundred and fifty, and Hall, five hundred miles toward the east; Walla Walla, twenty-five, and Vancouver, three hundred miles westward; Umpqua, two hundred miles southerly from Vancouver ; Colville and Okano gan, two hundred or two hundred and fifty miles northward; and Astoria, the earliest settlement in the country, at the mouth of the Columbia, almost deserted, except by a few em ployes of the Company. This was all except Indians. CHAPTEE III. ACROSS THE PLAINS — CONTINUED. Mrs. Whitman's Journal. As the journey of Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. Spalding was the first one ever made by white women across the Continent, the following account of it by Mrs. Whitman is given.1 The first part is in the form of letters; the latter in that of a journal.2 On Board Steamboat at Siam, March 15, 1836. Dear, Dear Mother — Your proposal concerning keeping a diary as I journey, comes before my mind often. I have not found it practicable while traveling by land, although many events have passed which, if noted as they occurred, might have been interesting. We left Pittsburg this morning at ten o'clock. It is delightful passing down the waters of the beau tiful river. March 28. We have just come on board the Majestic. It is rightly named, for it is one of the largest boats on the river. We are now sailing on the waters of the great Mississippi. We arrived at Cincinnati Thursday noon; found Brother Spalding. Said he had been waiting for us anxiously for a 1 A few unimportant parts are omitted. Mrs. Spalding also kept a journal during the journey, but it is entirely different from that of Mrs. Whitman's, being mainly an account of her own religious feel ings and experiences, and, in the words of Hon. S. A. Clark, is too sacred for the public gaze. 2 These were obtained by the author and G. H. Himes, Secretary of the Oregon Pioneer Association, and were first published in the Walla Walla Union of January, 1889, and in the Transactions of the Oregon Pioneer Association in 1891 and 1893. Across the Continent 55 fortnight. Spent the remainder of the week in making ar rangements for our journey, and on the Sabbath had a very interesting time with the disciples of Jesus there ; felt strength ened and comforted as we left them to pursue our journey into the wilderness. Much good feeling was manifested in the churches — a deep interest appeared to be taken in the missions. Especially our two Indian youths attracted the gaze and ad miration of a crowd on Sabbath evening. We left Tuesday noon on the Junius and expected to arrive in St. Louis before the Sabbath, but our expectation was not realized, and Satur day night found us on the waters of the Mississippi, eighty- nine miles from St. Louis. We felt it our duty not to travel on the Sabbath, and determined to leave the boat, although many on board tried to persuade us to remain, and have preaching on the Sabbath, and of the number, one was a Pres byterian minister from New York, who appeared quite anxious to detain us. At ten o'clock we landed at Chester, Illinois, and had a most delightful Sabbath of rest, with the few dis ciples of Jesus we found there. An aged minister who had been toiling in this part of the vineyard ever since the year 1817, we found of a kindred spirit. He preaches to several congregations. Said he had not had a brother minister to preach for him since he had been there, and to have a mission family call and enjoy the privileges of the Sabbath with him, seemed like angels' visits. He had heard of their passing and repassing often. Mr. Spalding preached in the forenoon, and in the afternoon my husband requested the children and youth to meet in a Sabbath School, and we distributed a number of books among them. Of the number, we found one young man who professed to be a Eoman Catholic — said he wanted to know our religion — had not a Protestant Bible, but if he had one would read it attentively. My husband gave him a Testa ment, for which he appeared grateful. Since we came on board, we have come on very pleasantly. Our accommodations are better here than on any previous boat. 19th, Tuesday morning. We shall expect to see St. Louis today. Evening. We are now in port. Husband has been to the office expecting to find letters from dear, dear friends at 56 Marcus Whitman home, but found none. Why have they not written? Seeing it is the very last, last time they will have to cheer my heart with intelligence from home, home, sweet home, and the friends I love. But I am not sad. My health is good. My mind com pletely occupied with present duty and passing events. St. Louis has a commanding situation. Wednesday, 30 th. A boat is in port, ready to take us up the Missouri, and will leave today. When we were in Pitts burg we heard that the Fur Company's steamboat, "Diana," had left St. Louis. We then expected to make our journey from Liberty to Bellview by land, probably on horseback, 300 miles of which would have been the most difficult part of the journey, on account of the season and high water. But Provi dence has ordered it otherwise. Since we arrived here we learn that the "Diana" snagged herself and sunk, but in shal low water, so that no lives were lost. We have the promise of overtaking her before we reach Liberty. She is now lying up for repairs and drying her freight. We had a call from a gentleman this morning who has resided in the mountains. Richard knew him very well — is going back with us. He was formerly from Cincinnati. It seems to me now that we are on the very borders of civilization, although we shall pass many towns on our way to Liberty. At this moment my feel ings are peculiar. I hardly know how to define them. I have not one feeling of regret at the step which I have taken, but count it a privilege to go forth in the name of my Master, cheerfully bearing the toil and privation that we expect to en counter. I intend to write home from Council Bluffs if I am not prevented, and give some statements which I cannot now. We could not pack all contained in that box sent us from An gelica. What we could not, Brother Whitman took home to sell for us, and send the avails to St. Louis. How anxiously I looked for a line or two from some one of the dear family in that box somewhere, but I saw none. Jane, don't forget to write to them for me. It is out of my power to write as much as I should like to. How often I think of Christians in Angelica — those beloved sisters and brothers, with whom we have knelt before the altar of prayer. Surely, now I feel the influence of their prayers, although widely separated. Say Across the Continent 57 to them we wish them to rejoice with us, and thank God for His kind protection, and the prosperity which has attended us since we left home. We are making arrangements for crossing the mountains, and shall expect to, unless prevented in the Providence of God. I think I should like to whisper in mother's ear many things which I cannot write. If I could only see her in her room for one-half hour ! This much I can say, mother, I have one of the kindest husbands, and the very best every way. I have become very much interested in the Nez Perces lads. They are very affectionate and seem to wish to please us in everything. We think they will be of great service to the mission in various ways. On Board Steamboat Chariton. Thursday, March 81, 1886. We left St. Louis immediately after dinner, passed many delightful residences in Missouri on the banks of the Missis sippi, just as we leave the city. Twilight had gone when we entered the waters of the great Missouri, but the moon shone in her brightness. It was a beautiful evening. My husband and myself went upon the top of the boat to take a more commanding view of the scenery. How majestic, how grand was the scene. "Surely, how admirable are Thy works, O Lord of Hosts." I could have dwelt on the scene still longer with pleasure, but Brother Spalding called us to prayers, and we left beholding the works of God for His worship. April 1st. Nothing of much importance occurred today. My eyes are satiated with the same beautiful scenery all along the coasts of this mighty river, so peculiar to this western country. One year ago today my husband first arrived in St. Louis on his exploring route to the mountains. We are one week earlier passing up the river this year than he was last year. April 2nd. Evening, ten o'clock. We have come on well since we left St. Louis. Sailed all night last night, which is a rare thing on this river, on account of the snags and sand bars. We are now at Jefferson City, about half-way to Liberty from St. Louis. Monday, fyth. We passed the wreck of the steamer Siam today about noon. It is indeed a melancholy sight. She ran 58 Marcus Whitman upon a snag and sank last winter. She was not quite a year old. No lives lost. We stopped today at Chariton about an hour. Thursday, 7th. Very pleasant, but cold. Mary, we have had a sick one with us all the way since we joined Dr. Sat- terlee. Mrs. Satterlee has had a very bad cough and cold which has kept her feeble. She is now recovering, and is as well as can be expected.1 The rest of us have been very well, except feeling the effects of drinking the river water. I am an exception, however; my health was never better since 1 have been on the river. I was weighed last week and came up to 136 pounds. I think I shall endure the journey well, perhaps better than any of the rest of us. Mrs. Spalding does not look or feel quite healthy enough for our enterprise. Riding affects her differently from what it does me. Everyone who sees me compliments me as being the best able to endure the journey over the mountains. Sister S. is very resolute, no shrinking with her. She possesses much fortitude. I like her very much. She wears well upon acquaintance. She is a very suitable person for Mr. Spalding, has the right temperament to match him. I think we shall get along very well together. We have so far. I have such a good place to shelter — under my husband's wings. He is so excellent. I love to confide in his judgment and act under him. He is just like mother in telling me of my failings. He does it in such a way that I like to have him, for it gives me a chance to improve. Jane, if you want to be happy, get as good a husband as I have got, and be a missionary. Mary, I wish you were with us. You would be as happy as I am. Since we have been here we have made our tent. It is made of bedticking. Is a conical form, large enough for us all to sleep under, viz : Mr. Spalding and wife, Dr. Whitman and wife, Mr. Gray, Richard Tak-ah-too-ah-tis, and John Aitz ; quite a little family; raised with a center pole, and fastened down with pegs, covering a large circle. Here we shall live, eat and sleep for the summer to come at least, perhaps longer. Mary, you inquired concerning my beds and bedding. I will tell 1 She died soon after. t ifl» *Cs fi* ^v# (¦«< .><¦¦ REV. HENRY H. SPALDING WILLIAM H. GRAY Assistant Missionary to Dr. Whitman Across the Continent 59 you. We five spread our India rubber cloth on the ground, then our blankets, and encamp for the night. We take plenty of Mackinaw blankets, which answer for our bed and bedding, and when we journey, place them over our saddle and ride on them. I wish you could see our outfit. I had made for me in Brother Augustus' shoe store in Eush ville a pair of gentleman's boots, and from him we supplied ourselves with what shoes we wanted. We have each of us a life preserver, so that if we fall into the water we shall not drown. They are made of India rubber cloth, air tight, and when filled with air and placed under the arm, will prevent one from sinking. Each of us take a plate, knife and fork and tin cup! Husband has got me an excellent side saddle and a very easy horse. He made me a present of a mule to ride the other day. I do not know which I shall like best. I have not tried the latter. Eichard says, "That's a very bad mule — can't catch buffaloes." That is the test with him. An animal's speed makes him good, in his eye. I will write you from Council Bluffs, and at every opportunity (to send) when Mr. Parker returns. We have lately received a letter from Mrs. Parker. O, what a spirit it breathed. When we were there she said, if we could not get a minister to go with us, we might keep Mr. Parker until one came, if we would only go on, and even now she has given permission for him to stay a year longer, and visit another tribe to the South. Alas ! My husband does not come tonight. The wind has blown so hard that I expect he has not been able to cross the river. Brother Gray is with him ; I shall not feel so anxious about him on that account, so adieu for tonight. It is most ten o'clock, and the family have all gone to rest. I should like to tell you how the western people talk, if I had room. Their language is so singular that I could hardly understand them, yet it is very amusing. In speaking of quantity, they say, "heap of man, heap of water, she is a heap sick," etc. If you ask, "How does your wife do today?" "O, she is smartly better, I reckon, but she is powerful weak ; she has been mighty bad, what's the matter with your eye?" Platte River, just above the Forks. June 8, 1836, Friday eve, six o'clock. We have just encamped for the night near the 60 Marcus Whitman bluffs, over against the river. The bottoms are a soft, wet plain, and we were obliged to leave the river yesterday for the bluffs. The face of the country yesterday afternoon and today has been rolling sand bluffs, mostly barren, quite unlike what our eyes have been satiated with for weeks past. No timber nearer than the Platte, and the water tonight is very bad, got from a small ravine. We have usually had good water previous to this. Our fuel for cooking since we left timber (no timber except on rivers) has been dried buffalo dung. We now find plenty of it, and it answers a very good purpose, similar to the kind of coal used in Pennsylvania (I suppose now Harriet will make up a face at this, but if she were here she would be glad to have her supper cooked at any rate in this scarce timber country). The present time in our journey is a very impor tant one. The hunter brought us buffalo meat yesterday for the first time. Buffalo have been seen today, but none taken. AVe have some for supper tonight. Husband is cooking it. No one of the company professes the art but himself. I ex pect it will be very good. Stop; I have so much to say to the children that I do not know in what part of my story to begin. I have very little time to write. I will first tell you what our company consists of. We are ten in number — five missionaries, three Indian boys and two young men employed to assist in packing animals. Saturday, lfih. I wrote last night till supper. I told you how many bipeds there were in our company; now for the quadrupeds : Fourteen horses, six mules, and fifteen head of cattle. We milk four cows. We started with seventeen, but we killed one calf, and the Fur Company, being out of pro vision, have taken one of our cows for beef. It is usually pinching times with the Company before they reach the buf falo. We have had plenty, because we made ample provision at Liberty. We purchased a barrel of flour, and baked enough to last us with killing a calf or two until we reached the buffalo. The Fur Company is large this year ; we are really a mov ing village; nearly four hundred animals, with ours, mostly mules, and seventy men. The Fur Company have seven wag- Across the Continent 61 ons, drawn by six mules each, heavily loaded, and one cart drawn by two mules, which carries a lame man, one of the proprietors of the Company. We have two wagons in our Company. Mr. and Mrs. S., husband and myself ride in one. Mr. Gray and the baggage in the other. Our Indian boys drive the cows, and Dulin the horses. Young Miles leads our forward horses, four in each team. Now, E., if you want to see the camp in motion, look away ahead, and see the pilot, and the Captain, Fitzpatrick, just before him; next the pack animals, all mules, loaded with great packs. Soon after you will see the wagons, and in the rear our Company. We all cover quite a space. The pack mules always string along, one after the other just like Indians. There are several gentlemen in the Company, who are going over the mountains for plea sure. Captain Stewart,1 he is an Englishman, and Mr. Celam. We had a few of them to tea with us last Monday evening. Captains Fitzpatrick, Stewart, Major Harris and Celam. I wish I could describe to you how we live, so that you can real ize it. Our manner of living is far preferable to any in the States. I never was so contented and happy before, neither have I enjoyed such health for years. In the morning as soon as the day breaks, the first that we hear is the words, "Arise, Arise!" Then the mules set up such a noise as you never heard, which puts the whole camp in motion. We en camp in a large ring, baggage and men, tents and wagons on the outside, and all the animals, except the cows, which are fastened to pickets, within the circle. This arrangement is to accommodate the guard, who stand regularly every night and day, also when we are in motion, to protect our animals from the approach of Indians, who would steal them. As I said, the mules' noise brings every man on his feet to loose them and turn them out to feed. Now, H. and E., you must think it very hard to have to get up so early after sleeping on the soft ground, when you find it hard work to open your eyes at seven o'clock. Just think of me; every morning at the word "Arise," we all spring. While the horses are feed ing, we get breakfast in a hurry and eat it. By this time the 1 Mr. Lee speaks of him in his journal — he went over when he did, and returned. 62 Marcus Whitman words, "Catch up! Catch up!" ring through the camp for moving. We are ready to start usually at six, travel till eleven, encamp, rest and feed, start again about two, travel until six or before, if we come to a good tavern, then encamp for the night. Since we have been in the prairie we have done our own cooking. When we left Liberty we expected to take bread to last us part of the way, but could not get enough to carry us any distance. We found it awkward work to bake out of doors at first, but we have become so accustomed to it now that we do it very easily. Tell mother I am a very good house keeper on the prairie. I wish she could just take a peep at us while we are sitting at our meals. Our table is the ground, our tablecloth is an India rubber cloth, used when it rains as a cloak. Our dishes are made of tin, basins for tea cups, iron spoons and plates for each of us, and several pans for milk and to put our meat in when we wish to set it on the table. Each one carries his own knife in his scabbard, and it is always ready for use. When the table things are spread, after making our own forks of sticks, and helping ourselves to chairs, we gather around the table. Husband always pro vides my seat, and in a way that you would laugh to see. It is the fashion of all this country to imitate the Turks. Messrs. Dunbar and Allis1 supped with us, and they do the same. We take a blanket and lay down by the table, and those whose joints will let them follow the fashion; others take out some of the baggage (I suppose you know that there are no stones in this country; not a stone have I seen of any size on the prairie). For my part, I fix myself as gracefully as I can, sometimes on a blanket, sometimes on a box just as it is con venient. Let me assure you this, we relish our food none the less for sitting on the ground while eating. We have tea and a plenty of milk, which is a luxury in this country. Our milk has assisted us very much in making our bread since we have been journeying. While the Fur Company has felt the want of 1 Missionaries who started for Oregon in 1834 with Rev. S. Parker, but who settled among the Pawnees, when he found he could not get to Oregon that year. Across the Continent 63 food, our milk has been of great service to us ; but it was con siderable work to supply ten persons with bread three times a day. We are done using it now. What little flour we have we shall preserve for thickening our broth, which is excellent. 1 never saw anything like buffalo meat to satisfy hunger. We do not want anything else with it. Supper and breakfast we eat in our tent. We do not pitch it at noon. Have worship immediately after supper and breakfast. Noon. The face of the country today has been like that of yesterday. We are now about thirty miles above the Forks, and leaving the bluffs for the river. We have seen wonders this forenoon. Herds of buffalo hove in sight. One, a bull, crossed our trail, and ran upon the bluffs in rear of the camp. We took the trouble to chase him so as to have a near view. Sister Spalding and myself got out of the wagon, and ran upon the bluff to see him. This band was quite willing to grat ify our curiosity, seeing it was the first. Several have been killed this forenoon. The Company keeps a man out all the time to hunt for the camp. I wish you were all here with us, going to the dear Indians. I have become very much attached to Eichard. He's the one you saw at our wedding. I love to teach him, to take care of him, and hear him talk. There are five Nez Perces in the Company, and when they are together they chatter finely. Samuel Temoni, the oldest one, has just come into camp with the skin and some of the meat of a buffalo which he has killed. He started this forenoon of his own accord. It is what they like dearly, to hunt buffalo. So long as we have him with us we shall be supplied with meat. Now the man from the mountains has come who will take this to the office. We have just met him and we have stopped our wagon to write a little. Give my love to all. I have not told you half I want to. We are all in health this morning and making rapid progress in our journey. By the Fourth of July our Captain intends to be at the place where Mr. Parker and husband parted last fall. We are a month earlier pass ing here than they were last spring. Tell mother that if I had looked the world over I could not have found a husband more 64 Marcus Whitman careful and better qualified to transport a female such a dis tance. Husband says "stop." Farewell to all I1 Platte River, south side, six days above the Fort Laramie Fork, near the foot of the Rocky Mountains, June 27, 1836. Dear Brother and Sister Whitman: We were in perplexity when we left Liberty, but it has been overruled for good. I wrote Mother Loomis from the Otoe Agency. We were in still greater perplexity there, while crossing with, our baggage. Hus band became so completely exhausted with swimming the river on Thursday, May 9th, that it was with difficulty he made the shore the last time. Mr. Spalding was sick ; our two hired men were good for nothing; we could not obtain much assis tance from the Otoes, for they were away from the village. We had but one canoe, made of skins, and that partly eaten by the dogs the night before. We got everything over by Fri day night. We did not get ready to start until Saturday af ternoon. By this time the [American Fur] Company had four and a half days the advance of us. It seemed scarcely' possible for us to overtake them, we having two more difficult streams to pass before they would pass the Pawnee villages. Beyond there we dared not venture more than one day. We were at a stand ; but with the advice of Brethren Merrill and Dunbar — missionaries among the Pawnees — after a concert of prayer on the subject, we concluded to start and go as far as it would be prudent for us. Brother Dunbar kindly consented to become our pilot, until we could get another. He started with us and came as far as the Elkhorn Eiver, then the man Major Dougherty sent for, for us, came up, and Mr. Dunbar returned. We had passed the river on Monday morning and taken down the rope, when our pilot and his Indian came up. It was with difficulty we crossed him and returned Mr. Dun bar. While on the opposite shore, just ready to leave us, he called to us to receive his parting advice, with a word of caution, which will never be forgotten. Our visit with him and Brother Merrill's family was indeed refreshing to our thirsty spirits — kindred spirits rejoicing in the self-denials 1 Dr. Whitman wrote a letter from this place also, at this time, but as it is almost entirely a repetition of what has already been given, it is not inserted. Oregon Pioneer Transactions, 1893, p. 109. Across the Continent 65 and labors of missionary life. The next day, in the morning, we met a large party of Pawnees going to the fort to receive their annuities. They seemed very much surprised and pleased to see white females ; many of them had never seen any before. They are a noble Indian — large, athletic forms, dignified coun tenances, bespeaking an immortal existence within. When we had said what we wished to them, we hurried on, and arrived ac the Elkhorn in time to cross all our effects. Here, I must tell you how much good Eichard, John and Samuel did us. They do the most of driving the cattle and loose horses. Oc casionally husband and myself would ride with them as com pany and encouragement. They came up to the river before us, and seeing a skin canoe on the opposite side, they stripped themselves, wound their shirts around their heads, and swam over and back again with the canoe by the time we came up. We stretched a rope across the river and pulled the goods over in the canoe without much difficulty. Monday and Tuesday we made hard drives — Tuesday es pecially. We attempted to reach the Loup Fork that night, and a part of us succeeded. Those in the wagons drove there by 11 o'clock, but it was too much for the cattle. There was no water or feed short of this. We rode with Eichard and John until 9 o'clock, and were all very much fatigued. Eich ard proposed to us to go on and he and John would stay on the prairie with the cattle, and drive them in in the morning. We did not like to leave them, and so we concluded to stay. Husband had a cup tied to his saddle, in which he milked what we wanted to drink ; this was our supper. Our saddle blank ets, with our India rubber cloaks, were our beds. Having of fered up our thanksgiving for the blessings of the day, and sought protection for the night, we committed ourselves to rest. We awoke in the morning much refreshed and rode into camp before breakfast — five miles. The Fur Company was on the opposite side of the river, which we forded, and, without unloading our wagon much, were ready to move again about noon. We wished to be with the Company when they passed the Pawnee village. This obliged us to make a day's drive of the camp in half a day, which was too bad for our horses. We did not reach them until 1 o'clock at night. The next day we 66 Marcus Whitman passed all their villages. We, especially, were visited by them, both at noon and at night; we ladies were such a curiosity to them. They would come and stand around our tent, peep in, and grin in their astonishment to see such looking objects. Since we came up with the camp I rode in the wagons most of the way to the Black Hills. It is astonishing how well we get along with our wagons where there are no roads. I think I may say it is easier traveling here than on any turn pike in the States. On the way to the buffalo coun.try we had to bake bread for ten persons. It was difficult at first, as we did not understand working out doors; but we became ac customed to it, so that it became quite easy. June found us ready to receive our first taste of buffalo. Since that time I have had but little to do with cooking. Not one in our num ber relishes buffalo meat as well as my husband and I. He has a different way for cooking every different piece of meat. I believe Mother Loomis would give up to him if she were here. We have had no bread since. We have meat and tea in the morn, and tea and meat at noon. All our variety consists in the different ways of cooking. I relish it well, and it agrees with me. My health is excellent. So long as I have buffalo meat, I do not wish anything else. Sister Spalding is affected by it considerably — has been quite sick. We feel that the Lord has blessed us beyond our most san guine expectations. We wish our friends at home to unite with us in thanksgiving and praise for His great mercies to us. We are a month earlier this year than husband was last, and the Company wish to be at Eendezvous by the 4th of July. We have just crossed the river and shall leave here tomorrow morning. Now, Sister Julia, between you and me, I just want to tell you how much trouble I have had with Marcus, two or three weeks past. He was under the impression that we had too much baggage, and could not think of anything so easy to be dispensed with as his own wearing apparel ; those shirts the ladies made him just before he left home, his black suit, and overcoat — these were the condemned articles. Sell them he must, as soon as he gets to the fort. But first I would not believe him in earnest. All the reasons I could bring were of no avail — he still said he must get rid of them. I Across the Continent 67 told him to sell all of mine, too; I could do without them better than he could. Indeed, I did not wish to dress unless he could. I finally said that I would write and get Sister Julia to plead for me, for I knew you would not like to have him sell them, better than I should. This was enough; he knew it would not do to act contrary to her wishes, and said no more about it. July 16th. When I wrote this letter I expected an oppor tunity to send it immediately, but we did not meet the party expected, and have had no opportunity since. We are now at the Eocky Mountains, at the encampment of Messrs. McLeod and McKay, expecting to leave on Monday morning for Walla Walla. It seems a special favor that that company has come to Rendezvous this season; for otherwise we would have had to have gone with the Indians a difficult route, and so slow that we should have been late at. Walla Walla, and not had the time we wanted to make preparations for winter. Hus band has written the particulars of our arrival, meeting the Indians, etc., to Brother Henry. One particular I will men tion, which he did not. As soon as I alighted from my horse I was met by a company of matron native women, one after another shaking hands and saluting me with a most hearty kiss. This was unexpected and affected me very much. They gave Sister Spalding the same salutation. After we had been seated a while in the midst of the gazing throng, one of the chiefs, whom we had seen before, came with his wife and very politely introduced her to us. They say they all like us very much, and thank God that they have seen us, and that we have come to live with them. It was truly pleasing to see the meeting of Eichard and John with their friends. Eichard was affected to tears. His father is not here, but several of his tribe and brethren are. When they met, each took off his hat and shook hands, as re spectfully as in civilized life. Eichard does not give up the idea of again seeing Eushville. July 18th. Under the protection of Mr. McLeod and his company we left the Eendezvous and came ten miles in a southwesterly direction. The Flatheads and some of the Snake Indians accompanied us a short distance. We make but one 68 Marcus Whitman camp a day. On the 22nd we had a tedious ride, as we trav eled till half-past 4 p. m. I thought of mother's bread as a child would, but did not find it on the table. I should relish it extremely well; have been living on buffalo meat until I am cloyed with it. Have been in a peaceful state of mind all day. Had a freedom in prayer for my beloved parents; blessed privilege that such a sinner as I may have access to a mercy seat, through such a Saviour as Jesus Christ. It is good to feel that He is all I want, and all my righteousness; and if I had ten thousand lives, I would give them all for Him. I long to be more like Him — to possess more of His meek spirit. 25th. Came fifteen miles today; encamped on Smith's Creek, a small branch of Bear Creek. The ride has been very mountainous — paths winding on the sides of steep mountains. In some places the path is so narrow as scarcely to afford room for the animal to place his foot. One after another we pass along with cautious step. Passed a creek on which was a fine bunch of gooseberries nearly ripe. Husband has had a tedious time with the wagon today. It got stuck in the creek this morning when crossing, and he was obliged to wade considerably in getting it out. After that, in going between the mountains, on the side of one, so steep that it was difficult for horses to pass, the wagon was upset twice ; did not wonder at this at all ; it was a greater wonder that it was not turning somersaults continually. It is not very grateful to my feelings to see him wearing out with such excessive fatigue, as I am obliged to. He is not as fleshy as he was last winter. All the most difficult part of the way he has walked, in laborious attempts to take the wagon. Ma knows what my feelings are. 26th. Did not move camp today. Mr. McKay has been preparing to send out trappers from this place. Husband has been sick today, and so lame with the rheumatism as to be scarcely able to move. It is a great privilege that we can lie still today, on his account, for he needs rest. 27th. Had quite a level route today — came down Bear Eiver. Mr. McKay sent off about thirty of his men as trap pers today. Several lodges of Indians also left us to go in Across the Continent 69 another direction, and we expect more to leave us tomorrow. They wish to go a different route from Mr. McLeod, and desire us to go with them ; but it would be more difficult and lengthy than Mr. McLeod's. We are still in a dangerous country ; but our company is large enough for safety. Our cattle endure the journey remarkably well. They supply us with sufficient milk for our tea and coffee, which is indeed a luxury. We are obliged to shoe some of them because of sore feet. Have seen no buffalo since we left Eendezvous. Have had no game of any kind except a few messes of antelope, which an Indian gave us. We have plenty of dried buffalo meat, which we have purchased from the Indians — and dry it is, for me. It appears so filthy ! I can scarcely eat it ; but it keeps us alive and we ought to be thankful for it. We have had a few meals of fresh fish, also, which we relish well, and have the prospect of obtaining plenty in one or two weeks more. Have found no berries; neither have I found any of Ma's bread (Girls, do not waste the bread ; if you knew how well I should relish even the dryest morsel, you would save every piece carefully). Do not think I regret coming. No, far from it; I would not go back for a world. I am contented and happy, notwith standing I sometimes get very hungry and weary. Have six weeks' steady journeying before us. Feel sometimes as if it were a long time to be traveling. Long for rest, but must not murmur. Feel to pity the poor Indian women, who are continually traveling in this manner during their lives, and know no other comfort. They do all the work and are the complete slaves of their husbands. I am making some little progress in their language; long to be able to converse with them about the Saviour. 28th. Very mountainous all the way today ; came over an other ridge ; rode from 8 a. m. till 2 p. m. We thought yester day the Indians were all going to leave us, except two or three ; but not one has. They fear to on account of the Blackfeet tribe, who would destroy them all, if they could. One of the axle-trees of the wagon broke today; was a little re joiced; for we were in hopes they would leave it, and have no more trouble with it. Our rejoicing was in vain, for they 70 Marcus Whitman are making a cart of the back wheels this afternoon, and lash ing the fore wheels to it — intending to take it through in some shape or other. They are so resolute and untiring in their efforts that they will probably succeed. Had some fresh fish for breakfast and some antelope for supper sent us by Mr. McLeod and other friends in camp. Thus the Lord provides and smooths all our ways for us, giving us strength. July 29th. Mr. Gray was quite sick this morning, and in clined to fall behind. Husband and I rode with him about two hours and a half, soon after which he gave out entirely. I was sent on, and soon after husband left him, to come and get the cart; but I overtook an Indian, who went back and soon met husband, and both returned to Mr. Gray. The Indian helped him on his horse, got on behind him, supported him in his arms, and in this manner slowly came into camp. This was welcome relief, and all rejoiced to see them come in ; for some of us had been riding seven hours, others eight, without any nourishment. [The next sheet of the journal is missing, which contains the account of their arrival at Fort Hall, where, she says] : We were hospitably entertain by Captain Thing, who keeps the fort. It was built by Captain Wyeth, a gentleman from Boston, whom we saw at the Rendezvous on his way East. Our dinner consisted of dry buffalo meat, turnips and fried bread, which was a luxury. Mountain bread is simply coarse flour and water mixed and roasted or fried in buffalo grease. To one who has had nothing but meat for a long time this relishes well. For tea we had the same, with the addition of some stewed service berries. The buildings of the fort are made of hewed logs, with roofs covered with mud brick, chimneys and fireplaces also foeing built of the same; no windows except square holes in the roof, and in the bastion a few port holes large enough for guns only. The buildings are all enclosed in a strong log wall. This affords them a place of safety when attacked by hostile Indians, as they frequently are, the fort being in the Black- foot country. Since dinner we visited the garden and corn fields. The turnips in the garden appeared thrifty — the tops very large and tall, but the roots small. The peas looked POET HALL, Exterior Tr"yin> rnjr fc4HB *mm I .: k of V-1ppl«f T PC ? 1 y i wte 1.1 ! 1 f1^ WIS FORT HALL, Interior \ Across the Continent 71 small, but most of them had been gathered by the mice. Saw a few onions that were going to seed, which looked quite nat ural. This was all the garden contained. He told us his own did extremely well until the 8th of June, when the frost of one night completely prostrated it. It has since come up again but does not look as well as it did before. This is their first attempt at cultivating. The buildings at Fort William, on Laramie Fork of the Platte, are made the same, but are larger and more finished than here. Here we have stools to sit on — there we had very comfortable chairs bottomed with buffalo skin. Thus you see we have a house of entertainment almost or quite as often as Christian of the Pilgrim's Progress did. We expect one more before we get to Walla Walla; that is Snake Fort [Boise.], belonging to Mr. McKay, who is journeying with us. From this on our company will be small. The Indians all leave us today, except one or two, who go with us to assist in driving the cattle — Kentuck, who went with Mr. Parker last year, and the chief, Rottenbelly. The whole tribe are ex ceedingly anxious to have us go with them. They use every argument they can invent to prevail on us to do so — and not only argument, but strategy. We all think it not best; we are very much fatigued, and wish to get through as soon as possible. To go with them would take us two months or more, when now we expect to go to Walla Walla in twenty-five days. When we get there rest will be sweet to us; so it will be to the Christian when he gets to Heaven. Will father and mother get there before I do? If so, then they will be ready to greet me on the threshold. Here we have raised our Eben- ezer, saying, "Hitherto the Lord hath helped us." Now we leave it and pass on. Our animals are nearly ready. It is now half-past two, and we expect to go but a short distance and encainp. August 5th. Morn. Came all of ten miles last evening and did not arrive here until after dark. Mr. McLeod and his company started earlier than we did, intending to come but a little way. We could not get ready to come with him, and the man who piloted us led us wrong — much out of the way. Those on whom we depended to drive cattle disappointed us. 12 Marcus Whitman Husband and myself fell in behind them to assist John Aits, who was alone with them. This made us later into camp than the rest of our company. We came through several swamps, and all the last part of the way we were so swarmed with mosquitoes as to be scarcely able to see — especially while crossing the Port Neuf, which we did just before coming into camp. It is the widest river I have forded on horseback. It seemed the cows would run mad for the mosquitoes ; we could scarcely get them along. Mr. McLeod met us and invited us to tea, which was a great favor. Thus blessings gather thick around us. We have been in the mountains so long we find the scenery of this valley very grateful to the eye — a large stream on my right and one on my left, skirted with timber. At Fort Hall was our first sight of Snake River. We shall follow the south side of it for many days. We have passed many places where the soil is good, and would be fertile if there were frequent rains ; but usually the country is barren, and would be a sandy desert were it not for the sage brush. Eve. We passed the American Falls on Snake River just after dinner. The roar of the water is heard at a considerable distance. We stopped during the greatest heat for rest and dinner. Now that the Indians are no longer with us, we shall expect to make two camps. I expect this to be a great mercy to us weak females, for it was more than we could well endure to travel during the heat of the day without refreshment. August 6th. Route very bad and difficult today. We crossed a small stream full of falls. The only pass where we could cross was just on the edge of rocks above one of the falls. While the pack animals were crossing, both ours and the Company's, there was such a rush as to crowd two of our horses over the falls, both packed with dried meat. It was with great difficulty they were got out, one of them having been in nearly an hour, much to his injury. We have a little rice to eat with our dry meat, given us by Mr. McLeod, which makes it relish quite well. August 7th. Sabbath. Came fifteen miles and camped on a fine place, with plenty of good grass for our weary animals. Across the Continent 73 Thus are blessings so mingled, that it seems as if there was nothing else but mercy and blessing all the way. Was there ever journey like this performed, where the sustaining hand of God has been so manifest every morning. Surely the children of Israel could not have been more sensible of the pillar of fire by night than we have been of that hand that has led us thus safely on. God has heard prayer in our behalf, and even now, while I am writing on this holy day, is the sweet incense of prayer ascending before the throne of Heavenly grace. Nor are we forgotten by our beloved churches, at home in the pray ers of the Sanctuary, we are too sensible of its blessed effects to believe otherwise; and Oh! how comforting is this thought to the heart of the missionary. We love to think and talk of home, with such feelings as these. It warms our hearts and strengthens and encourages us in the work of our beloved Master, and makes our journeyings easy. August 8th. Snake River. We have an excellent camp ground tonight; plenty of feed for the cattle and horses. We think it remarkable that our cattle should endure the journey as well as they do. We have two sucking calves that appear to be in very good spirits; they suffer some from sore feet, otherwise they have come on well and will go through. Have come eighteen miles today, and have taken it so deliberately that it has been easy for us. The hunters came in last night well loaded; they had been in the mountains two days after game, and killed three elk and two antelope. This is the first elk meat we have had, and it is the last opportunity we expect to have of taking any more game. We are told that many have traveled the whole distance from Rendezvous to Walla Walla without any fresh meat. We think ours will last us until we reach the salmon fishing at Snake Falls. Thus we are well provided for, contrary to our expectations. Mr. McLeod has excellent hunters ; this is the reason why we live so well. There is but little game, and that is found at great distance from the route. 11th. Tuesday and Wednesday have been tedious days, both for man and beast — lengthy marches without water; rocky and sandy. Had a present tonight of a fresh salmon ; also a plate of fried cakes from Mr. McLeod (Girls, if you 74 Marcus Whitman wish to know how they taste, you can have the pleasure by tak ing a little flour and water, make some dough and roll it thin, cut it into square blocks, then take some beef fat and fry them. You need not put either salt or pearlash in your dough. Believe me, I relish them as well as I ever did any made at home). 12th. Friday. Raised camp this morning at sunrise, and came two hours' ride to the salmon fishery. Found a few lodges of Diggers of the Snake tribe, so-called because they live on roots during winter, who had just commenced fishing. Ob tained some and boiled it for our breakfast. Find it good eating; had we been a few days earlier we should not have been able to obtain any fish, for they had but just come up. They never go higher than these falls, and come here every season. Friday Eve. Dear Harriet, the little trunk you gave me has come with me so far, and now I must leave it here alone. Poor little trunk, I am sorry to leave thee, thou must abide here alone, and no more by thy presence remind me of my dear Harriet. Twenty miles below the falls on Snake River, this shall be thy place of rest. Farewell, little trunk, I thank thee for thy faithful services, and that I have been cheered by thy presence so long. Thus we scatter as we go along. The hills are so steep and rocky that husband thought it best to lighten the wagon as much as possible, and take nothing but the wheels, leaving the box with my trunk. I regret leaving any thing that came from home, especially that trunk, but it is best. It would have been better for me not to have attempted to bring any baggage whatever, only what was necessary to use on the way, it costs so much labor, besides the expense of animals. If I were to make the journey again, I would make quite different preparations. To pack and unpack so many times, and cross so many streams where the packs frequently get wet, requires no small amount of labor, besides the injury of the articles. Our books, what few we have, have been wet several times. In going from Elmira to Williamsport, this trunk fell into the creek and wet all my books, and Richard's, too, several times. The sleigh box came off, and all of us came near a wetting likewise. The custom of the country is Across the Continent 75 to possess nothing, and then you will lose nothing while travel ing. Farewell for the present. 13th. Saturday. Dear Harriet, Mr. McKay has asked the privilege of taking the little trunk along, so that my soliloquy about it last night was for naught. However, it will do me no good, it may him. We have come fifteen miles and have the worst route in all the journey for the cart. We might have had a better one, but for being misled by some of the Company, who started out before the leaders. It was two o'clock before we came into camp. They were preparing to cross Snake River. The river is divided by two islands into three branches, and it is fordable. The packs are placed upon the tops of the highest horses, and in this way we crossed without wetting. Two of the tallest horses were selected to carry Mrs. Spalding and myself over. Mr. McLeod gave me his, and rode mine. The last branch we rode as much as half a mile in crossing and against the cur rent, too, which made it hard for the horses, the water being up to their sides. Husband had considerable difficulty in crossing the cart. Both the cart and mules were turned up side down in the river, and entangled in the harness. The mules would have been drowned but for a desperate struggle to get them ashore. Then after putting two of the strongest horses before the cart, and two men swimming behind to steady it, they succeeded in getting it across. I once thought that crossing streams would be the most dreaded part of the jour ney. I can now cross the most difficult stream without the least fear. There is one manner of crossing which husband has tried, but I have not, neither do I wish to. Take an elk skin and stretch it over you, spreading yourself out as much as pos sible, then let the Indian women carefully put you on the water, and with a cord in the mouth they will swim and draw you over. Edward, how do you think you would like to travel in this way? 15th. Yesterday Mr. McLeod, with most of his men left us, wishing to hasten his arrival at Snake Fort, leaving us a pilot and his weakest animals to come in with us at our leisure. This is a relief to us, as it is difficult to bring our cattle up to the speed they wish to travel. We passed the hot springs just 76 Marcus Whitman before noon, which was quite a curiosity. Boiled a bit of dry salmon in one of them in five minutes. 16th. This eve found plenty of berries called hawthorn on the stream where we have encamped. They are large as a cherry and taste much like a mealy sweet apple. Our route on this side of Snake River is less hilly and difficult than on the south side, and said to be two days shorter. 19th. Arrived at Snake Fort [Boise] about noon. It is situated on Bigwood River, so called because the timber is larger than any to be seen this side of the mountains. It con sists chiefly of cottonwood and is small compared with timber in the States. Snake Fort is owned and was built by Mr. Thomas McKay, one of our Company, whom we expect to leave here. He, with Mr. McLeod, gave us a hearty welcome ; dined with them. Mr. McLeod was ready to leave on the morrow, but said he would stay a day longer to give us the opportunity of doing some necessary work, for which we were thankful. 20th. Saturday. Last night I put my clothes in water, and this morning finished washing before breakfast; this is the third time I have washed since I left home, once at Fort William and once at Rendezvous. Mr. McLeod called this evening to see if we were ready to leave. He observed we had been so engaged in labor as to have no time for rest, and pro posed for ourselves to remain over the Sabbath. This I can assure you was a favor for which we can never be too thankful, for our souls need the rest of the Sabbath as well as our bodies. 21st. Sabbath. Rich with heavenly blessings has this day of rest been to my soul. Mr. Spalding was invited to preach iii the Fort at 11 o'clock. The theme was the "Character of the Blessed Saviour." All listened with good attention. 22nd. Left the Fort yesterday, came a short distance to the crossing of Snake River, crossed and encamped for the night. The river has three branches, divided by islands, as it was when we crossed before. The first and second places were very deep, but we had no difficulty in crossing on horseback. The third was deeper, still ; we dare not venture on horseback. This being a fishing post of the Indians, we easily found a Across the Continent 77 canoe made of rushes and willows, on which we placed our selves and our saddles (Sister Spalding and myself), when two Indians on horseback each with a rope attached to the canoe towed us over. O! if father and mother and the girls could have seen us in our snug little canoe, floating on the water ! We were favorites of the Company. No one else was privileged with a ride on it. I wish I could give you a correct idea of this little bark. It is simply bunches of rushes tied to gether and attached to a frame made of a few sticks of small willows. It was just large enough to hold us and our saddles. Our baggage was transported on the top of our tallest horses, without wetting. As for the wagon, it is left at the Fort, and I have nothing to say about crossing it at this time. Five of our cattle were left there also, to be exchanged for others at Walla Walla. Perhaps you will wonder why we have left the wagon, having taken it so nearly through. Our animals were failing and the route in crossing the Blue Mountains is said to be impassable for it. We have the prospect of obtaining one in exchange at Vancouver. If we do not, we shall send for it, since we have been to so much labor in getting it thus far. It is a useful article in the country. Now for Edward's amusement, and that he may know how to do when he comes over the Rocky Mountains, I will tell how we got the cattle over the rivers. Our two Indians boys, Richard and John, have had the chief management of driving them all the way, and are commendable for the patience they have manifested. They have had some one or two to help usually, but none are so steady drivers as themselves. When a stream is to be crossed, where it is necessary for the animals to swim, Richard comes to my husband and asks if he may go over with his horse and clothes and then come back after the cows. Having obtained consent, he rides over, accompanied by his fellow drivers, all stripped to the shirt. Then they return with their horses if the stream is wide and difficult. If not, they leave their horses, tie their shirts over their heads, swim back, collect the cows and drive them through, all swim ming after them. If the stream is very wide, and they return with their horses, they drive them swimming on their horses 78 Marcus Whitman behind them. This saves them from the too great fatigue of swimming the river twice. They love to swim, as they love to eat, and by doing so, have saved me many an anxious feeling, for the relief it has given my husband many times. In this case all the horses and mules were driven across likewise. Usually, the best Indian swimmer was selected, and mounted the horse that was good for leading to go before the animals as a guide, while many others swam after them to drive them over. When once under way, such a snorting and halloaing you never heard. At the same time you can see nothing save so many heads floating upon the water. Soon they gain the opposite shore, triumphantly ascend its banks, shake them selves, and retire to their accustomed employment. 26th. Friday. On account of our worn out cattle and horses, it was thought best to separate from Mr. McLeod's party, at least some of us, and travel more deliberately. Two mules and a horse have almost entirely given out. It is neces sary for some of our party to go to Vancouver immediately for supplies and to see Mr. Parker before he leaves. It was thought best for my husband and Mr. Gray to go, as Mr. Mc Leod intended to make but a day's stop at Walla Walla. We came on with him, leaving Mr. and Mrs. Spalding, the hired man, with most of our baggage, and the Nez Perces chief, Rot- tenbelly, to pilot them in. We parted from them about three o'clock, and came as far as the Lone Tree. The place called "The Lone Tree" is a beautiful valley, in the region of Powder River, in the center of which is a solitary tree, quite large, by the side of which travelers usually stop and refresh them selves. We left our tent for Mrs. Spalding, as we expect to be out only a few nights, while she may be out many. Mr. McLeod kindly offered his for my use, and when I arrived in camp, found it pitched and in readiness for me. This was a great favor, as the wind blew quite hard, and the prospect was for a cool night. August 27th. Came in sight of the hill that leads to Grand Ronde. This morning Mr. McLeod remained behind in pur suit of game, and did not come into camp until we had made a long nooning. Although we had begun to feel a little con cerned about him, yet about three o'clock he came into camp Across the Continent 79 loaded with wild ducks, having taken twenty-two. Now, mother, he did just as he always did during the journey, sent over nine of them. Here also Richard caught fresh salmon, which made us another good meal, and if we had been out of provisions we might have made a dinner upon the fresh water clams, for the river was full of them. Girls, how do you think we manage to rest ourselves every noon, having no house to shelter us from the scorching heat, or sofa on which to recline? Perhaps you think we always encamp in the shade of some thick wood. Such a sight I have not seen, lo, these many weeks. If we can find a few small willows, or a single lone tree, we think ourselves amply pro vided for. But often our camping places are in some open plain, and frequently a sand plain ; but even here is rest and comfort. My husband, who is one of the best the world ever knew, is always ready to provide a comfortable shade with one of our saddle blankets spread upon some willows or sticks placed in the ground. Our saddles, fishamores and the other blankets, placed on the ground, constitute our sofa, where we recline and rest until dinner is ready. How do you think you would like this? Would you not think a seat by mother in some cool room preferable? Some times my wicked' heart has been disposed to murmur, thinking I have no rest from the heat when we stopped, but have always been reproved for it by the comfort and rest received. Under the circum stances I have never wished to go back. Such a thought never finds a place in my heart. "The Lord is better to us than our fears." I always find it so. 28th. This morning lingered with husband on the top of the hill that overlooks the Grand Eonde, at the foot of which is a beautiful cluster of pitch and spruce pine trees, but no white pine like that I have been accustomed to see at home. Grand Eonde is, indeed, a beautiful place. It is a circular plain, surrounded by lofty mountains, and has a beautiful stream coursing jthrough it, skirted with quite large timber. The scenery, while passing through it, is quite delightful in some places, and the soil rich; in other places we find the white sand and sedge, as usual, so common to this country. We nooned upon the Grand Eonde Eiver. 80 Marcus Whitman The camas grow in abundance, and it is the principal re sort of the Cayuses and many other tribes to obtain it, as they are very fond of it. It resembles an onion in shape and color ; when cooked is very sweet and tastes like a fig. Their manner of cooking them is very curious ; they dig a hole in the ground, throw in a heap of stones, heat them to a red heat, cover them with green grass, upon which they put the camas, and cover the whole with earth. When taken out it is black. This is the chief food of many tribes during the winter. After dinner we left the plain and ascended the Blue Mountains. Here a new and pleasing scene presented itself— mountains covered with timber, through which we rode all the afternoon ; a very agreeable change. The scenery reminded me of the hills in my native county of Steuben. 29th. Had a continuation of the same scenery as yesterday afternoon. Eode over many logs and obstructions that we had not found since we left the States. Here I frequently met old acquaintances in the trees and flowers, and was not a little delighted; indeed, I do not know as I was ever so much af fected with any scenery in my life. The singing of birds, the echo of voices of my fellow travelers, as they were scattered through the woods, all had a strong resemblance to bygone days. But this scenery was of short duration ; only one day. Before noon we began to descend one of the most terrible mountains for steepness and length, I have yet seen. It was like winding stairs in its descent, and in some places almost perpendicular. The horses appeared to dread the hill as much as we did. They would turn and wind around in a zigzag manner all the way down. The men usually walked, but I could not get permission to, neither did I desire it much. We had no sooner gained the foot of this mountain, when another more steep and more dreadful was before us. After dinner and rest we descended it. Mount Pleasant in Prattsburg would not compare with these Mount Terribles. Our ride this after noon exceeded anything we have had yet, and what rendered it the more aggravating was the fact that the path all the way was very stony, resembling a newly macadamized road. Our horses' feet were very tender, all unshod, so that we could not make the progress we wished. The mountain in many places Across the Continent 81 was covered with this black broken basalt. We were very late in making camp tonight. After ascending the mountain we kept upon the main divide until sunset, looking in vain for water and a camping place. While upon this elevation, we had a view of the valley of the Columbia Eiver. It was beau tiful. Just as we gained the highest elevation, and began to descend, the sun was dipping his disk behind the western hori zon. Beyond the valley we could see two mountains, Mount Hood and Mount St. Helens. These lofty peaks were of a conical form, separated from each other by a considerable distance. Behind the former, the sun was hiding part of his rays, which gave us a more distinct view of this gigantic cone. The beauty of this extensive valley contrasted well with the rolling mountains behind us, and at this hour of twilight was enchanting, and quite diverted my mind from the fatigue un der which I was laboring. We had yet to descend a hill as long but not as steep or as stony as the other. By this time our horses were in haste to be in camp, as well as ourselves, and mine made such lengthy strides in descending that it shook my sides surprisingly. It was dark when we got into camp, but the tent was ready for me, and tea, also, for Mr. McLeod invited us to sup with him. Dearest mother, let me tell you how I am sustained by the Lord in all this journey. For two or three days past I have felt weak, restless, and scarcely able to sit on my horse, yesterday in particular. But see how I have been diverted by the scenery, and carried out of myself by conversation about home and friends. Mother will recol lect what my feelings were, and had been for a year previous to my leaving home ; the last revival I enjoyed on my visit to Onondaga, and the scenes there. These I call my last im pressions of home, and they were of such a character that when we converse about home, these same feelings are revived, and I forget that I am weary and want rest. This morning my feelings were a little peculiar; felt remarkably strong and well, so much so as to mention it ; but could not see any reason why I should feel any more rested than on the morning pre vious. When I began to see what a day's ride was before me, then I understood it. If I had had no better health today than yesterday I should have fainted under it. Then the 82 Marcus Whitman promise appeared in full view. "As thy days so shall thy strength be," and my soul rejoiced in God, and testified to the truth of another evidently manifest, "Lo, I am with you always." 30th. In consequence of the lengthy camp yesterday and failure of animals, two of the Company's men left their ani mals behind, with packs also. These occasioned some anxiety, lest the wolves should destroy their beaver. Today they sent back for them, and we made but a short move, to find more grass. On following the course of the stream on which we en camped last night, we found cherries in abundance, and had time to stop and gather as many as we wished. They are very fine, equal to any we find in the States. When we arrived, Mr. Gray had the dinner waiting for us. This afternoon the men rested and made preparations to enter Walla Walla. The men who went for the animals returned late. We all regretted this hindrance, for Mr. McLeod intended to see Walla Walla today, and return again with a muskmelon for Mrs. Whitman (so he said). He will go in tomorrow. It is the custom of the country to send heralds ahead to announce the arrival of a party, and prepare for their reception. 31st. Came to the Walla Walla Eiver, within eight miles of the Fort. [Now Wallula]. Husband and I were very much exhausted with this day's lengthy ride. Most of the way was sandy, with no water for many miles. When we left Mr. Spalding, husband rode an Indian horse, which he had never mounted before, and found him a hard rider in every gait, except a gallop; and slow in his movements, nor could he pace, as mine did, so for the last six days we have galloped most of the way, where the ground would admit of it. September 1st, 1836. You can better imagine our feelings this morning than we can describe them. I could not realize that the end of our long journey was so near. We arose as soon as it was light, took a cup of coffee, ate of the duck we had given us last night, and dressed for Walla Walla. We started while it was yet early, for all were in haste to reach the desired haven. If you could have seen us you would have been surprised, for both man and beast appeared alike to be im pelled by the same force. The whole company galloped almost FORT WALLA WALLA Across the Continent 83 the whole of the way to the Fort. The first appearance we saw of civilization was the garden, two miles this side of the Fort. The fatigues of the long journey seemed to be forgotten in the excitement of being so near the close. Soon the Fort ap peared in sight, and when it was announced that we were near, Mr. McLeod, Mr. Pambrun, the gentleman of the house, and Mr. Townsend [a traveling naturalist], sallied forth to meet us. After the usual introduction and salutation, we entered the Fort and were comfortably situated in cushioned arm chairs. They were just eating breakfast as we rode up, and soon we were seated at the table, and treated to fresh salmon, potatoes, tea, bread and butter. What a variety, thought I. You can not imagine what an appetite these rides in the mountains give a person. I wish some of the feeble ones in the States could have rode over the mountains ; they would have said, like me, that victuals, even the plainest kinds, never relished so well before. After breakfast we were shown the novelties of the place. While at breakfast, however, a young rooster placed himself upon the sill of the door and crowed. Now, whether it was the sight of the first white woman, or out of compliment to the company, I know not, but this much for him, I was pleased with his appearance. You may think me simple for speaking of such a small circumstance. No one knows the feelings oc casioned by objects once familiar after a long deprivation, es pecially when it is heightened by no expectation of meeting with them. The door yard was filled with hens, turkeys, and pigeons. In another place we saw cows and goats in abun dance, and I think the largest and fattest cattle and swine I ever saw. We were soon shown to a room which Mr. Pambrun said he had prepared for us, by making two bedsteads, or bunks, on hearing of our approach. It was the west bastion of the Fort, full of port holes in the sides, but no windows, and filled with firearms. A large cannon, always loaded, stood behind the door by one of the holes. These things did not disturb me. I am so well pleased with the possession of a room to shelter me from the scorching sun that I scarcely notice them. Having arranged our things, we were soon called to a feast 84 Marcus Whitman of melons, the first I think, I ever saw or tasted. The musk melon was the largest, measuring eighteen inches in length, fifteen around the small end, and nineteen around the large end. You may be assured that none of us were satisfied or willing to leave the table until we had filled our plates with chips. At four o'clock we were called to dine. It consisted of pork, turnips, cabbage, tea, bread and butter — my favorite dishes, and much like the last dinner I ate with Mother Loomis. I am thus particular in my description of eatables, so that you may be assured that we find something to eat beyond the Eocky Mountains as well as at home. We find plenty of salt, but many here prefer to do almost and some entirely without it on their meats and vegetables. Sept. 2. Have busied myself today in unpacking my trunk and arranging my things for a visit to Vancouver. Mother will wonder at this, and think me a strange child for wishing lo add three hundred miles to this journey ; not from necessity, but my husband is going, and I may as well go as to stay here alone. If we were obliged to go on horseback, I think I should not wish to undertake it, but we are going in a boat, and it will not take us more than six days to go there. It is a very agreeable change and I think that I shall enjoy it as well as to stay here. I feel remarkably well and rested, do not need to lounge at all, and so it is with us all. I can scarcely believe it possible of myself, but it is true. I feel as vigorous, and as well able to engage in any domestic employment as I ever did in my life. I have not yet introduced you to the lady of the house. She is a native from a tribe east of the moun tains. She appears well, does not . speak English, but her native language and French. The cooking and housework is done by men, chiefly. Mr. Pambrun is from Canada, and much the gentleman in his appearance. Sept. 3. Mr. McLeod and Townsend left for Vancouver today, but Mr. McLeod is so loaded as not to be able to give us a comfortable passage. Mr. Pambrun is going by himself next week, and offers us a passage with him. About noon Mr. and Mrs. Spalding arrived with their com pany, having made better progress than was anticipated. Here Across the Continent 85 we are all at Walla Walla, through the mercy of a kind Provi dence, in health, and all our lives preserved. What cause for gratitude and praise to God. Surely, my heart is ready to leap for joy at the thought of being so near the long desired work of teaching the benighted ones the knowledge of the Sa viour, and having completed this journey under such favorable circumstances. Mr. Pambrun said to us the day we arrived, that there never had been such a company previous to ours that came into the Fort so well fed as ours for the last days of the journey. All our friends of the East Company, who knew anything about the Company, dreaded this part for us very much, but the Lord has been with us, and provided for us all the way, and blessed be His holy name. Another cause for gratitude is the preservation of our animals, in this diffi cult, dangerous and lengthy route, while many parties pre vious to ours have had every animal taken from them, and left on foot in a dangerous land, exposed to death. Two horses have given out with fatigue and have been left, two have been stolen or lost, but most that we have now have come all the way from the settlements, and appear well. Two calves have been lost ; the remainder came on well, except those we left at Snake Fort. Sabbath, J^th. This, has been a day of mutual thanksgiving with us all. Assembled at the Fort at twelve o'clock for wor ship; our feelings are better imagined than described. This first Sabbath in September, a Sabbath of rest, first after com pleting a long journey, first in the vicinity of our future labors. All of us here before God. It is not enough for us alone to be thankful; will not my beloved friends at home, the disciples of Jesus, unite with us in gratitude and praise to God for His great mercy? It is in answer to your prayers that we are here, and are permitted to see this day under such circum stances. Feel to dedicate myself renewedly to His service among the heathen. And may the Lord's hand be as evidently manifest in blessing our labors among them, as it has in bring ing us here, and that, too, in answer to your prayers, beloved Christian friends. 5th. Mr. and Mrs. Spalding have concluded to go with us to Vancouver, as nothing can be done by either of the party 86 Marcus Whitman about location until the Indians return from their summer's hunt. Expect to leave tomorrow. Have had exceedingly high winds for two days and nights past, to which this place is subject. Our room shakes, and the wind makes such a noise that we can scarcely hear each other converse. Sept. 7, 1836. We set sail from Walla Walla yesterday at two o'clock p. m. Our boat is an open one, manned with six oars and the steersman. I enjoy it much ; it is a very pleasant change in our manner of traveling. The Columbia is a beauti ful river. Its waters are clear as crystal and smooth as a sea of glass, exceeding in beauty the Ohio ; but the scenery on each side of it is very different. There is no timber to be seen, but there are high perpendicular banks of rocks in some places, while rugged bluffs and plains of sand in others, are all that greet the eye. We sailed until near sunset, when we landed, pitched our tents, supped our tea, bread and butter, boiled ham and potatoes, committed ourselves to the care of a kind Provi dence, and retired to rest. This morning we arose before sunrise, embarked and sailed until nine o'clock, and are now landed for breakfast. Mr. Pambrun's cook is preparing it, while husband and myself are seated by a little shrub, writing. We are this moment called. Farewell. 8th. Came last night quite to the Chute [above The Dalles] , a fall in the river not navigable. There we slept, and this morning made the portage. All were obliged to land, un load, carry our baggage, and even the boat for half a mile. I had frequently seen the picture of the Indians carrying a canoe, but now I saw the reality. We found plenty of Indians here to assist in making the portage. After loading several with our baggage and sending them on, the boat was capsized, then placed upon the heads of about twenty of them, who marched off with it, with perfect ease. Below the main fall of water are rocks, deep, narrow channels, and many frightful precipices. We walked deliberately among the rocks, viewing the scene with astonishment, for this once beautiful river seemed to be cut up and destroyed by these huge masses of rock. Indeed, it is difficult to find where the main body of water passes. In high water we are told that these rocks are Across the Continent 87 all covered with water, the river rising to such an astonishing height. After paying the Indians for their assistance, which was a twist of tobacco about the length of a finger to each, we re loaded, went on board, sailed about two miles, and stopped for breakfast. This was done to get away from a throng of In dians. Many followed us, however, to assist in making an other portage, three miles below this. Sept. 9th. We came to The Dalles just before noon. Here our boat was stopped by two rocks of immense size and height, all the water of the river passing between them in a very nar row channel, and with great rapidity. Here we were obliged to land and make a portage of two and a half miles, carrying the boat also. The Dalles is the great resort of Indians of many tribes for taking fish. We did not see many, however, for they had just left. Now, mother, if I was with you by the fireside, I would re late a scene that would amuse you, and at the same time call forth your sympathies. But for my own gratification I will write it. After we landed, curiosity led us to the top of a rock to see the course of the river through its narrow channel. But as I expected to walk that portage, husband thought it would be giving me tbwntuch fatigue to do both. I went with him to its base, t(**refn.wn there until his return. I took a handful of hazel nuts and thought I would divert myself with cracking and eating them. I had just seated myself in the shade of the rock, ready to commence work, when feeling some thing unusual on my neck, I put my hand under my cape and took from thence two insects, which I soon discovered to be fleas. Immediately I cast my eyes upon my dress before me, and to my astonishment, found it was black with these crea tures, making all possible speed to lay siege to my neck and ears. This sight made me almost frantic. What to do I knew not. Husband was away, Sister Spalding had gone past hear ing, to stand still I could not. I climbed up the rock in pur suit of my husband, who soon saw and came to me. I could not tell him, but showed him the cause of my distress. On opening the gathers of my dress around the waist every plait was lined with them. Thus they had already laid themselves 88 Marcus Whitman in ambush for a fresh attack. We brushed and shook, and shook and brushed for an hour, not stopping to kill, for that would have been impossible. By this time they were reduced very considerably, and I prepared to go to the boat. I was relieved from walking by the offer of a horse from a young chief. This was a kindness, for the way was mostly through sand, and the walk would have been fatiguing. I found the confinement of the boat distressing on account of my miserable companions, who would not let me rest for a moment in any one position. But I was not the only sufferer. Every one in the boat was alike troubled, both crew and passengers. As soon as I was able to make a change in my apparel, I found relief. We made fine progress this morning till 9 o'clock, when we were met with a head wind, and obliged to make shore. We met the crew last night with the Western Express. This express goes from and returns to Vancouver twice a year. Eve. Have lain still all day because of the wind. This is a detention, as we intended to have been at Vancouver by to morrow evening. A party of Indians came to our camp this eve. Every head was flattened. These are the first that I have seen near enough to be able to examine them. Their eyes have a dull and heavy expression. * 10th. High winds, and not alrW^y A at all today. 11th. We came to the Cascades for breakfast; another important fall in the river, where we are obliged to make a portage of a mile. The boat was towed along by the rocks with a rope over the falls. This is another great place for salmon fishing. A boat load was just ready for Vancouver when we arrived. I saw an infant here whose head was in the pressing machine. This was a pitiful sight. Its mother took great satisfaction in unbinding and showing its naked head to us. The child lay upon a board between which and its head was a squirrel skin. On its forehead lay a small, square cushion, over which was a bandage drawn tight around, pressing its head against the board. In this position it is kept three or four months or longer, until the head becomes a fash ionable shape. There is a variety of shapes among them, some being sharper than others. I saw a child about a year old Across the Continent 89 whose head had been recently released from pressure, as I sup posed from its looks. All the back part of it was of a purple color, as if it had been sadly bruised. We are told that this custom is wearing away very fast. There are only a few tribes of this river who practice it. Sept. 12. Breakfasted at the sawmill five miles from Van couver, and made preparations for entering it. You may be surprised to hear of a sawmill here, when I said that there was no timber on the Columbia. Since we passed the Cascades the scene is changed, and we are told there is timber all the way to the coast. Eve. We are now in Vancouver, the New York of the Pa cific Ocean. Our first sight as we approached the fort was two ships lying in the harbor, one of which, the Neriade, Cap tain Eoyal, had just arrived from London. The Columbia, Captain Dandy, cajnje last May, and has since been to the Sand wich Islands and returned. On landing we first met Mr. Town- send, whom we saw at Walla Walla. He is from Philadelphia, and has been in the mountains for two years. He is sent here by a society to collect the different species of bipeds and quad rupeds, peculiar Ao. Ais ceuntry. We brought a parcel of let ters to him, "the fir^rhe^had received since he had left home. Mr. Townsend led us into tke Fort. But before we reached the home of the chief factor, Dr. McLoughlin, we were met by several gentlemen, who came to give us a welcome, Mr. Doug las, Dr. Tolmie, and Dr. McLoughlin, of the Hudson Bay Com pany, who invited us in, and seated us on the sofa. Soon we were introduced to Mrs. McLoughlin and Mrs. Douglas, both natives of the country — half-breeds. After chattering a little we were invited to walk in the garden. What a delightful place this is; what a contrast to the rough, barren sand plains, through which we had so recently passed. Here we find fruit of every description, apples, peaches, grapes, pears, plums and fig trees in abundance ; also cucumbers, melons, beans, peas, beets, cabbage, tomatoes and every kind of vegetable too numerous to mention. Every part is very neat and tastefully arranged, with fine walks, lined on each side with strawberry vines. At the opposite end of the garden is a good summer house covered with grape vines. Here 90 Marcus Whitman I must mention the origin of these and apples. A gentleman, twelve years ago, while at a party in London, put the seeds of the grapes and apples which he ate into his vest pocket. Soon afterwards he took a voyage to this country and left them here, and now they are greatly multiplied. After promenading as much as we wished, and returning, we were met by Mrs. Copendel, a lady from England, who ar rived in the ship Columbia last May, and Miss Maria, daughter of Dr. McLoughlin, quite an interesting young lady. After dinner we were introduced to Eev. Mr. Beaver and lady, a clergyman of the Church of England, who arrived last week in the ship Neriade. This is more than we expected when we left home, that we should be privileged with the acquaintance and society of two English ladies. Indeed, we seem to be nearly allied to Old England, for most of the gentlemen of the Com pany are from there and Scotland. We have not found Eev. Samuel Parker here, to our great disappointment. He went to Oahu in the ship Columbia, a few weeks before we arrived. We have mourned about it con siderably, for we thought it would be so acceptable to our dear parents and friends at home to hear him say that he had seen us alive here after completing this logjg, unheard-of journey. Besides, I wish to send home many things which I cannot now. More than all this, his counse^aud advice would have been such a relief to us, at this important time, as to location, char acter of the Indians, and the like. But it was wisely ordered, and we submit. He appears to have been a favorite here, and to have done much good. The Messrs. Lee left Vancouver on Saturday last for their station on the Wallamet. Mr. Daniel Lee has been out of health, and for the year past has been at Oahu. He returned on the Neriade, benefited by his visit. Sept. 13. This morning visited the school to hear the chil dren sing. It consists of about fifty-one children who have French fathers and Indian mothers. All the laborers here are Canadian French, with Indian wives. Indeed, some of the gentlemen of the Company have native wives and have adopted the customs of the country not to allow their wives to eat with them. French is the prevailing language here. English is spoken only by a few. Across the Continent 91 Just before dinner we went on board the Neriade, the first ship I ever saw. She is a man-of-war, and goes to the North west coast soon. The Columbia returns to London this fall. The Company have lost three ships on the coast. Sept. llf. We were invited to a ride to see the farm — have rode fifteen miles this afternoon. We visited the barns, stock, etc. They estimated their wheat crops at four thousand bush els this year, peas the same, oats and barley between fifteen and seventeen hundred bushels each. The potato and turnip fields are large and fine. Their cattle are numerous, estimated at a thousand head in all the settlements. They have swine in abundance, also sheep and goats, but the sheep are of an inferior kind. We find also hens, turkeys and pigeons, but no geese. You will ask what kind of beds they have here. I can tell you what kind of bed they made for us, and I have since found it a fashionable bed for this country. The bedstead is in the form of a bunk, with a rough board bottom, upon which are laid about a dozen of the Indian blankets. These with a pair of pillows, covered with calico cases, constitute our beds, sheets and covering. There are several feather beds in the place, made of the feathers of wild ducks, geese, cranes and the like. There is nothing here suitable for ticking. The best and only material is brown linen sheeting. The Indian ladies make theirs of deer skin. Could we obtain a pair of geese from any quarter I should think much of them. Sept. 16. Every day we have something new to see. We went to the stores, and found them filled above and below with the cargo of the two ships, all in unbroken bales. They are chiefly Indian goods, and will be sent away this fall to the several different posts of the Company in the ship Neriade. We have found here every article for comfort and durability that we need, but many articles for convenience, and all fancy articles are not here. Visited the dairy also, where we found butter and cheese in abundance. Saw an improvement in the manner of raising cream. Their pans are an oblong square, quite large but shallow, flaring a little, made of wood and lined with tin. In the center is a hole with a long plug. When 92 Marcus Whitman the cream has risen, they place the pan over a tub or pail, re move the plug, and the milk will run off, leaving only the cream in the pan. I think that these must be very convenient in a large dairy. They milk between fifty and sixty cows. On visiting the mill, we did not find it in a high state of im provement. It goes by horsepower, and has a wire bolt. This teemed a hard way of getting bread, but better so than no bread, or to grind by hand. The Company have one at Col- ville that goes by water, five days' ride from Walla Walla, from whence we expect to obtain our flour, potatoes and pork. They have three hundred hogs. Dr. McLoughlin promises to loan us enough to make a beginning and all the return he asks is that we supply other settlers in the same way. He appears desirous to afford us every facility for living in his power. No person could have received a more hearty welcome or be treated with greater kind ness than we have been since our arrival. Sept. 17th. A subject is now before the minds of certain individuals, in which I feel a great interest. It is that we ladies spend the winter at Vancouver, while our husbands go to seek their locations and build. Dr. McLoughlin is certain that it will be the best for us, and I believe is determined to have us stay. The thought of it is not very pleasant to either of us. For several reasons I had rather go to Walla Walla, where if we failed to make a location, or of building this fall, we could stay very comfortably, and have enough to eat, but not as comfortably or have as great a variety as here; besides there is the difficulty of ascending the river in high water, not to say anything of a six months' separation, when it seems to be least desirable; but all things will be ordered for the best. Sept. 18. Mr. Beaver held two services in a room in Dr. McLoughlin's barn today. Enjoyed the privilege much. This form of worship, of the Church of England, differs in no way from that of the Episcopalians in the States. The most of the gentlemen of the Fort are Scotch Presbyterians, very few being Episcopalians. The great mass of the laborers are So man Catholics, who have three services during the Sabbath, one of which is attended at this house, at which Dr. McLough- Across the Continent 93 lin officiates in French. He translates a sermon or a tract and reads a chapter in the Bible and a prayer. The singing in Mr. Beaver's church was done by the children, some of their tunes having been taught them by Eev. Mr. Parker, and others by the Mr. Shepherd, of the Methodist Mission. Sept. 19. The question is decided at last, that we stay here about four or five weeks. There is so much baggage to be taken up now, that the boat will be sufficiently loaded without us. Have the cheering promise that our husbands will come for us in a short time if prospered. One thing comforts us, they are as unwilling to leave us as we are stay, and would not, if it were possible for us to go now. From this we are sure that they will make every effort to return for us soon. We are told that the rainy season will commence soon, and con tinue through the winter and late in the spring, while at Walla ¦Walla there is none. Vancouver, too, is subject to fever and ague. These are quite good reasons for preferring Walla Walla, even if we had to live in a lodge. Have been making some necessary purchases for our two Indian boys, Eichard and John, which we are glad to do, partly as a reward for their faithful care of the cattle during the journey. We left them at Walla Walla. They regretted our leaving them, and now I cannot feel willing to stay away from them all winter. Their anxiety to study continues the same, especially Eichard. We love them both, and feel deeply interested in their welfare, and shall treat them as our own as long as they deserve it. Sept. 20. Dr. McLoughlin gave my husband a pair of leather pantaloons today. All the gentlemen here wear them for riding, for economy. Eiding horseback and carrying a gun is very destructive to cloth pantaloons. Our husbands have been making preparations to leave us today, but have found so much to do, that they could not get ready to leave much before tonight. They have concluded to start the boat a short distance and camp, while they, with Mr. Pambrun and Mr. Gray, remain in the Fort, to leave early in the morning. Sept. 21. Our friends left us this morning early. One thing I should have mentioned, as decided upon before they 94 Marcus Whitman left, was the propriety of making two stations. After consid eration, it was decided best to do so for several reasons. The Cayuses, as well as the Nez Perces, are very anxious to have teachers among them. They are a numerous tribe,1 and speak the same language as the Nez Perces. There are other fields open, ready for the harvest, and we wish that there were many more laborers here ready to occupy them immediately. Sev eral places have been recommended, which our husbands in tend visiting before they fix upon any place. You will recol lect that we had Grand Eonde in view as a location when we left home. Our reasons for not fixing upon that place are in surmountable. The pass in the Blue Mountains is so difficult, and the distance so great that it would be next to impossible to think of obtaining supplies sufficient for our support. We could not depend upon game, for it is very scarce and uncer tain. Mr. Parker recommends a place on the Kooskooska (Clearwater) Eiver, six days' ride above Walla Walla. 1 hope to give you our exact location before I send this. Sept. 22. Dr. McLoughlin has put his daughter in my care, and wishes me to hear her recitations. Thus I shall have enough to do for diversion while I stay. I could employ all my time in writing and work for myself if it were not for his wishes. I have not given you a description of our eatables here. There is such a variety I know not where to begin. For break fast we have coffee or cocoa, salt salmon and roast ducks with potatoes. When we have eaten our supply of them, our plates are changed and we make a finish on bread and butter. For dinner we have a greater variety. First we are always treated to a dish of soup, which is very good. All kinds of vegetables in use are taken, chopped fine, and put into water with a little rice and boiled to a soup. The tomatoes are a prominent article, and usually some fowl meat, duck or other kind, is cut fine and added. If it has been roasted once it is just as good (so the cook says), and then spiced to the taste. After our soup dishes are removed, then comes a variety of meats to prove our tastes. After selecting and changing, we 1 Not numerous, but wealthy and influential. Across the Continent 95 change plates and try another, if we choose, and so at every new dish have a clean plate. Eoast duck is an everyday dish. Boiled pork, tripe, and sometimes trotters, fresh salmon or sturgeon, yea, articles too numerous to be mentioned. When these are set aside, a nice pudding or an apple pie is next intro duced. After this a water and a muskmelon make their ap pearance, and last of all cheese, bread or biscuit and butter are produced to complete the whole. But there is one article on the table I have not yet mentioned and of which I never par take, that is wine. The gentlemen frequently drink toasts to each other, but never give us an opportunity of refusing, for they know that we belong to the Teetotal Society. We have talks about drinking wine, but no one joins our society. They have a Temperance Society here and at Wallamet, formed by Mr. Lee. Our tea is very plain. Bread and butter, good tea, plenty of milk and sugar. Sept. 80th. We are invited to ride as often as once a week for exercise, and we generally ride all the afternoon. Today Mrs. McLoughlin rode with us. She keeps her old habit of rid ing gentleman fashion. This is the universal custom of In dian women, and they have saddles with high backs and fronts. We have been recommended to use these saddles, as a more easy way of riding, but we have never seen the necessity of chang ing our fashion. I sing about an hour every evening with the children, teach ing them new tunes, at the request of Dr. McLoughlin. Thus I am wholly occupied, and can scarcely find as much time as I want to write. Oct. 18th. The Montreal Express came this afternoon, and a general time of rejoicing it is to every one. News from dis tant friends, both sad and pleasing. Mr. Spalding has come with it, and brought a letter from my husband filled with pleasing information. The Lord has been with them since they left us, and has prospered them be yond all expectations. They have each selected a location, my husband remains there to build, while Mr. Spalding comes after us. Cheering thought this, to be able to make a beginning in our pleasing work so soon. CHAPTEE IV. MISSION WORK. The Cayuse Indians, among whom Dr. Whitman settled, were a small, but rich, powerful and influential tribe. Early writers differ largely in their estimates of their number. Eev. S. Parker, in 1836, gives two thousand, which is evidently far too high. Captain C. Wilkes, in 1841, puts the number down as five hundred. Dr. A. G. Dart, Superintendent of Indian Af fairs for Oregon, says that in 1851 there were 38 men, 48 wo men, and 40 children, a total of 126. A census of 1853 says a hundred and twenty. When Dr. Whitman went there it is probable that they did not number over three hundred. But they had very large bands of horses, and were a proud and haughty tribe. Joining them on the west were the Walla Wallas, which Mr. Parker places at 500, Captain Wilkes at 200, Dr. Dart at 130. To the northeast were the Nez Perces, where Mr. Spalding had located, which was by far the strongest, most numerous, and most friendly to Americans of all the tribes east of the Cascade Mountains. All estimates place them be tween seventeen and twenty-five hundred. North were the Spokanes, numbering eight hundred, according to Mr. Parker, 232 according to Dr. Dart, and 450 according to the census. of 1853. The Cayuses originally had a language of their own, but having intermarried largely with the Nez Perces, they had mainly adopted that of this tribe, so that when books were printed in the Nez Perces, the Cayuses used them. The Walla Wallas likewise used largely the same language, so that Dr. Whitman could reach them and also assist Mr. Spalding when needed. All belonged to the Sahaptin family, while the Spo kane language belongs to the Selish family, which is spoken in British America and in northern and western Washington. Dr. Whitman's account of some of their manners and cus- Mission Work 97 toms, which was published in the Missionary Herald for Sep tember, 1843, is as follows : Migrations. "Their migrations are much in the following order and manner. The spring return is the most general and uniform. During this period, the congregations on the Sabbath are from two to four hundred, and from twenty to fifty on weekday evenings. Planting commences about the middle of April, which is also the period for commencing the raush harvest. To obtain this farinaceous root, known to travelers and traders as the biscuit root, they disperse along the streams coming out of the Blue Mountains. Some are not more than ten or fifteen miles from the station, while others are thirty or forty. This root forms a great staple of native food, and will be likely to continue such for a long time. From six to eight weeks are spent in gathering, drying and deposit ing this root. During this time, and about the 10th or 15th of May, the salmon arrive, and some fruits are ripe, which re ceive their share of attention. At this season all the smaller tributaries of the Columbia are barred by a web or wicker-work of willows for taking salmon. The skill of the natives is fa vorably displayed in this simple contrivance, and their toil is amply repaid by the quantity taken. While thus occupied, they visit the station to attend to the cultivation of their crops — a labor, in most cases, performed with ease and neat ness. The latter part of June is the usual period for buffalo hunters to set out on their expedition. A migration of from forty to sixty miles takes them across the Blue Mountains into the Grande Eound. The river of Grande Eound is well supplied with fish, and the mountains abound with bear, deer, etc. The wheat harvest, which begins the latter part of July, and the care of their other crops, bring many to the station, who remain till the 1st of October, or until the potato harvest is past. During this period there are more in the neighborhood of the station than at any other period, except the spring. Our congregation averages from fifty to two hundred. A great number come and remain for a short time, and then leave, while others take their places. During this period, their at tention is divided between their crops and herds, hunting and fishing, and preparing dried fruit. Soon after the potatoes 98 Marcus Whitman are secured, they begin to disperse to their winter quarters. From fifty to sixty only remain during the winter." Indian Superstitions. "Their belief is that the present race of beasts, birds, reptiles and fish were men, who inhabited the globe before the present race. Although doomed to their pres ent state their language is still retained, and these beasts, birds, reptiles and fish have the power to convey this language to those people into whom they see fit to pass. To obtain this boon, boys are required to leave the lodge and repair to the mountains alone, and there to stay for several days without food in order to be addressed by some of these supernatural agencies. Some return without any assurance of the kind; others believe themselves to be addressed, and they are very free to communicate what was said to them, while others pro fess great secrecy and claim great reverence on account of their mysterious possession. "At these times they profess to be told what is to be their future character, and in what way they may secure honor, wealth and long life; how they will be invulnerable, and if wounded, by what means they will be healed. The surgical knowledge imparted generally consists in directions how to cast off the extravasated blood, and then to sit in a stream of water and sing according to certain rules. At these times they say that one person becomes possessed of power to strike or shoot another with an invisible influence or arrow, so that disease and death will follow. This is the foundation of the system of sorcery, as seen in the so-called medicine-men. "Most of their efforts to cure the sick consist in obtaining one medicine-man to counteract another, who is supposed to have caused the sickness. The sorcerer employed for this pur pose calls to his aid a number of persons, who sing and beat upon sticks with a horrible noise, while he himself sings and talks and practices sundry contortions, using at the same time a variety of incoherent expressions, supposed to be the lan guage of the former race of men, as delivered to him by the beast, bird, reptile or fish which is helping him in his conjura tions. After a sufficient display of this sort of machinery and Mission Work 99 a full lecture to his coadjutors about the disease, its cause and cure, he proceeds to extract the evil by placing his hands on the diseased or painful spot, and then, if successful, he casts himself upon the floor, with his hands in water, as though what he had extracted burnt him. He then shows what he has drawn out, and afterwards drives it off into the broad space and prognosticates a cure; but when he sees a prospect of death, he often points out some one who, he says, is causing the sickness, and declares the other to be possessed by a more powerful agent than himself, so that he cannot overcome him. Should death occur in such a case as this, they watch the dying person to see if any expression of his fastens suspicion upon the person named; and all are careful to remember if any hard words had passed, or any cause whatever confirms the supposition. Very often in cases of this kind, nothing can save the conjuror. The number and horror of such deaths that have come under my observation have been great. "In the same way individuals arrogate to themselves power over the winds, the clouds, the rain, the snow, and the seasons — in short, all and every desired or desirable object is sought for from this source. Some are losing their confidence in such things, while others are yet strong in the belief of their reality. A Mode of Gaining Supernatural Power. "A young man shot himself through the body last July, in order to convince his countrymen of the strength of his supernatural protecting agent. The ball entered the abdomen a little to the right and below the umbilicus, and came out by an oblique line above and near the spine on the same side. This occurred sixty miles from my house, at the Grande Eound, and the third day he encamped near me for the night, and I saw him and examined his wound in the morning. He was walking about and making his preparations to depart; and soon he rode off on horseback. This was the second trial of his strength, hav ing shot himself through in much the same way, about two years before. The body was preserved from the flash by his leather shirt. He will now be regarded as a strong mystery, or medicine-man." 100 Marcus Whitman Beginning of Missionary Work. During the first year or two everything was favorable for missionary work. The Indians had received some instruction from members of the Hudson's Bay Company, so that at the lodge of the chief of the Cayuses religious worship was held every morning, night, and on the Sabbath. This consisted of singing, a form of prayer, and an address from the chief. Hence the Indians received the Doctor gladly, and were dis posed to accept religious instruction. A year after he first be gan work, he made a journey to Lapwai, Mr. Spalding's sta tion, leaving his own premises, stock and produce almost en tirely without protection, and on his return found everything safe. On the 4th of March, 1837, on Mrs. Whitman's twenty-ninth birthday, their first and only child was born, a daughter. She was named Alice Clarissa^ after her two grandmothers. For a time she was visited almost daily by the Indian chiefs and principal men, while the women thronged the house to see her. They called her Cayuse te-mi (girl) because she was born on Cayuse land, and as long as she lived she was a strong bond between the missionaries and the Indians. In regard to her, Mrs. Whitman wrote to her home relations: "O, the respon sibilities of a mother. To be a mother in heathen lands, among savages, gives feelings that never can be known only to those who are such. You see our situation. If ever we needed your prayers and sympathies, it is at the present time. Ye mothers of the maternal associations, let me beg an interest in your prayers, especially, for your unworthy sister, now that she has - become a mother, and for her little one. I feel utterly, incom petent for the place, and were it not for the strong hand of the Lord, I should sink under the responsibilities resting upon me." One trouble which the Doctor had at first was that, when he needed help, he could not depend on the Indians, because they did not like to work steadily. He was assisted in this trouble, however, by employing a few Hawaiians, of whom there were a number then in the country. Another trouble which he met was in regard to sickness and the medicine men. In the spring of 1837 many of the Indians were sick with inflammation of -$!* ' *ii>\:c*OL < f' - THE WHITMAN MISSION (WAIILATPU) IN 1843 Mission Work 101 the lungs. The Doctor attended them, but many of them after getting better would overeat or expose themselves, and have relapse, after which they must have their medicine men. One old chief, Umtippe, told the Doctor that if his wife should die one night, he would kill him. The anxiety and excitement nearly made the Doctor sick, but fortunately none died to whom the Doctor gave medicine. Notwithstanding these trials Mrs. Whitman, however, felt that their situation was far pref erable to that of some missionaries east of the Eocky Moun tains, because no alcohol was to be Had, the Indians did not steal (so that she left her clothes out over night, feeling as safe about them as when in Prattsburg), and there was not a man or woman, and scarcely a child but what was clothed, some with American clothes, some with a shirt and leggings/ with a blanket or buffalo robe over their shoulders, and the women and girls with dresses made entirely of skins. By March, 1838, the Doctor wrote to the Board : "During the winter we have been greatly favored by having a few very kind Indians near us, so that we have had a school of from fif teen to twenty scholars, many of whom have made good pro ficiency in learning to read the English language. Those who have been away for the winter hunt are now returned, and the present number of children is greater than we have books or ability to teach. The only books we have for teaching were kindly and gratuitously furnished us by our Methodist breth ren of the Willamette Mission." This school was kept in their kitchen, which was crowded much of the time. Mrs. Whitman copied a book of seventy-two pages, in the Nez Perces language, which Mr. Spalding intended to send to the Sandwich Islands, that it might be printed. This was probably not done, as a press was received from the Islands the next year. Doctor Whitman added : "The disposition of the Indians appears much more friendly than last year, but still I need not tell you we have many perverse dispositions to encounter, for which we' often feel we lack wisdom, and should be dis couraged were it not for the promises of God to be with us and enlighten us. We have two meetings for the Indians on 102 Marcus Whitman the Sabbath, and in the evening what we call a Sabbath school for the children and youth. The attention to religious instruc tion is good and solemn. Worship is strictly maintained in the principal lodges morning and evening. Lately I have been explaining the Ten Commandments and our Saviour's first and great commandment, to which they listen with strict at tention, and, from their inquiries, I think they understand them. "My plan for teaching the children is not to take them to board, but let them live with their parents, and come for in struction. When their parents are to be gone for a short time I will give them food and let them lodge in my Indian room until their parents return. Some of the parents begin to be unwilling to be absent, because it takes their children off from learning to read. "The Indians are making arrangements for planting, and I am in hopes they will do much. But their fear that other In dians will steal from them is a great hindrance to them, and all are anxious to plant where I can watch their crops; for, as they say, the Indians fear me, but do not fear them. In dians from a distance are continually coming for seed to plant, and as I am not straightened, it affords me great pleasure to give them. There seems to be a general interest among the neighboring Indians to plant. I am anxious to cultivate large ly, as I expect we may have associates, and perhaps some of our friends from the Sandwich Islands may spend some time with us for their health. Our situation renders it necessary to en tertain many friends and passing strangers. "It has seemed important to make a beginning that would encourage the Indians at the outside, that we might the sooner gain access to them, and try the influence of cultivation and a settled manner of life, not forgetting that it is the gospel which ve come to bring, and that our great business is with the mind, and not the body. But while we acquire their language, and are preparing to instruct them, they are not idle spectators. They must be encouraged in the most useful habits. Every thing seems encouraging in our prospects. May the Lord bless us, and direct our efforts in the best way !" Mission Work 103 The summer of 1838 was very favorable for vegetation, and the mission crops were abundant. Many of the Indians also had fair crops, enough to show them how much more comfort ably they might live by agriculture than by the chase, and many more prepared to follow their example the following year. In March, 1838, Mrs. Whitman wrote her parents that two years had passed and she had not received a single letter from the loved ones there. The following July, on the 11th, two years and four months after leaving home, she received the first letters, dated January and August of the year before. More were received in August, brought by the band of missionaries who came that year, and then she had to wait two years longer for her next letters from the East. Of newspapers, too, she says, in September, 1838, that she had seen none of any kind except a few numbers of the New York Observer for 1836. She wrote her sister about that time that they must calculate that it would be three years before either of them could expect to receive an answer to any letter which they should write. She, however, wrote, September 25, 1838, "When the contem plated railroad over the Isthmus of Darien shall have been opened, which is expected to take place within two or three years, I hope communications will be more frequent than they are at the present time." This is the first mention of a rail road at that place seen by the author, and seems strange, when we take into consideration the state of the coast at that time. Visits, too, were very infrequent. It was not until Novem ber, 1837, that she was able to go and see her nearest white female neighbor, Mrs. Spalding, after a separation of about a year. At that time the four parents gave their two daughters to God in baptism, for Mr. and Mrs. Spalding had their little Eliza, born November 15th, 1837. Of this event, Mrs. Whit man wrote: "We had the unspeakable satisfaction of giving away our babes to God, and having the seal of that blessed covenant placed upon their foreheads. Surely, dear mother, if this is a comfort to mothers in a Christian land, it is doubly so in the midst of heathen. We also had the privilege of com memorating the dying love of the Saviour, a blessing which we 104 Marcus Whitman have not enjoyed since we sat at the table with our beloved friends in Angelica, on the eve of our marriage. O, ye privil eged ones, who can sit together in heavenly places, and mount upon wings as eagles, little do you realize the feelings of the solitary missionary in the land of darkness, as Egyptian dark ness itself." A visit in the spring of 1838 from Eev. Jason Lee, of the Methodist Mission in the Willamette Valley, greatly refreshed them. He had arrived in the country in 1834, and was in 1838 returning East for more laborers. He also carried with him a memorial to Congress, signed by thirty-six persons, about three-fourths of all the white male inhabitants of the Willam ette Valley, asking our government to take formal and speedy possession of the country. His preaching, his visit, here and at Mr. Spalding's, his conference on religious questions, and without doubt also on the national subject of the possession of the country, were all like a refreshing rain to a thirsty land.1 In August, 1838, the Indians at Dr. Whitman's seemed so much interested in the Gospel that the Doctor sent for Mr. Spalding, who came, and a series of meetings was held. It seemed as if some had decided for Christ. At the close of these meetings, August 18th, a church was organized of seven members, Mr. and Mrs. Spalding, Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, Jo seph Mahi and wife, Hawaiians, and Charles Compo, a settler from the mountains and Mr. Parker's interpreter in 1835, who had become a Christian at Dr. Whitman's. This church was Presbyterian in name, the first of that denomination on' the Pacific Coast. It was, however, Congregational in practice, as long as the mission lasted, not being connected with any Presbytery or Synod, but being governed by a majority of its members. When the reinforcement to the mission arrived, the latter part of the month, all united with it, making sixteen members. Mr. Spalding was pastor of it, a position he held 1 Rev. H. K. Hines has described this event graphically in his mis sionary "History of the Pacific Northwest," Chapter 8. Mission Work 105 for thirty-eight years, until his death, and Dr. Whitman was chosen its ruling Elder.1 After the first winter it was thought that the need for more missionaries was so great that Mr. Gray was sent East in 1837 to obtain the needed help. He was successful in this, and re turned to Oregon in 1838 with his wife, Eeverends A. B. Smith, Elkanah Walker, and Cushing Eells and their wives, and Mr. Cornelius Eogers. Mr. Gray and his wife during the latter part of the journey went ahead of the others and arrived at Walla Walla on August 14th, the rest on August 29th. Messrs. Walker and Eells went north the same fall and selected a sta tion among the Spokane Indians, called Tshim-a-kain, but they were not able to prepare homes in which they could winter, and consequently wintered at Dr. Whitman's. There, Decem ber 7th, 1838, Cyrus Hamlin Walker was born, who, though not the first American white boy born on the coast, was the first to live to be of any age. The next March these two families left for their place of work, where they remained nine years. Mr. Smith and wife stayed at Waiilatpu during the winter, but the next spring began a new station among the Nez Perces at Kamiah, sixty miles east of Mr. Spalding's. Mr. Gray and his wife and Mr. Eogers went to Lapwai for the winter. From a letter received by the Board, written by Dr. Whitman in July, it appeared that previous to their arrival he had given up all hope of having any help for that year at least, but when they arrived, he wrote, "We feel like Paul when he met the brethren from Eome, we thank God and take courage." 1 Although the mission was broken up after the massacre of Dr. Whitman in 1847, yet so many Indians united with it that it remained in existence until after Mr. Spalding's return to Lapwai in 1871, when it grew rapidly, having at one time several hundred members. In 1888 its semi-centennial was celebrated at Walla Walla and Dr. Whit man's grave. A large number of prominent persons were present at that time, among them Hon. W. H. Gray, who had joined it almost fifty years previous, and Rev. Myron Eells, who was baptized in it in his infancy, and who by request represented the American Board at that time. All of the original seven members were then dead, and of the sixteen mentioned above who united with it in 1838, the only ones living besides Mr. Gray were Rev. Cushing Eells, then at Ta coma, Washington, and Mrs. M. R. Walker, at Forest Grove, Oregon. 106 Marcus Whitman In April, 1839, a printing press arrived from the Sandwich Islands, for the benefit of the mission. It was the first one on the Pacific Coast, and on it was done the first printing on the coast. It had been sent by the American Board in 1819 to the Sandwich Islands to be used by the mission there. That was the year when the first missionaries were sent to those islands, and, in 1822, their language had been so far reduced to writing that the press came into use. It was the pioneer press there as well as now on the Pacific Coast. It was a Ramage writing, copying and seal press, No. 14. After using it for twenty years the Hawaiian mission had grown so that it needed a larger press, and consequently, the native church at Honolulu bought it, with type, furniture, paper and a few other articles, altogether valued at five hundred dollars, and donated it to the Oregon Mission of the American Board. E. 0. Hall, a practical printer, at the Islands, came to Oregon with it. His wife's health was quite poor, and it was hoped that the voyage and change would do her good, and as there was no printer in Oregon, he came also to teach the art of printing. On April 30th Dr. and Mrs. Whitman and Mr. and Mrs. Spalding met it and Mr. and Mrs. Hall at Fort Walla Walla. By common consent it was taken on horseback to Lap wai, where, on the sixteenth of May, it was set up, and on the eighteenth the first proof sheet was struck off. On the twenty- fourth a small booklet of eight pages in Nez Perces was printed.1 1 Lapwai remained the home of the press until 1846, and during that time, as near as can now be learned, there were printed an elemen tary book of twenty pages, another of fifty-two pages of 800 copies, an other in 1840 of eight pages, some simple laws adopted through the influence of Dr. E. White, U. S. Sub. Indian Agent, in 1843, a small Nez Perces and English vocabulary, a hymn book, 1842, and a trans lation of Matthew. All of these were in the Nez Perces language. Dr. Whitman was appointed by the mission to prepare the one of 800 copies, but he was so busy professionally and felt that Messrs. Smith and Rogers were so much better qualified in the language that he employed them to prepare it. The rest were prepared, as far as can be learned, by Mr. Spalding. In 1842 one of sixteen pages in the Spo kane language was printed. This was prepared by Messrs. Walker and Eells, chiefly by the former, who may properly hence be called the pioneer book writer of the State of Washington, as Mr. Spalding Mission Work 107 On Sabbath, June 23rd, 1839, Dr. and Mrs. Whitman met with their first great sorrow through the death by accidental drowning of the only child they ever had, Alice Clarissa, aged about two years and three months. Without the knowl edge of her parents she had gone to the banks of the Walla Walla River, not far from the house, taking a cup to get a drink where they were accustomed to get water for family use, and fell in. Her mother was in the house, her father a short distance away on the premises. The alarm was conveyed to them almost instantly, and they and others rushed to the stream, seeking for their child with frantic eagerness. But the strong current had carried her down and lodged her in a clump of bushes under the bank. They passed the spot a number of times while life remained in the child; but they found her too late. Word was immediately sent to Mr. Spald ing, who, with his wife and Mr. Hall, came to Dr. Whitman's as soon as possible. Mr. Spalding says : "Our brother and sister appear to be remarkably reconciled to the afflictive Providence which has removed from them their dearest earthly treasure. Her par ents feel that their sins have made it necessary for their Heav- was of Idaho. Mr.- Hall remained in the country until 1840, when he returned to the Sandwich Islands. By that time he had taught Messrs. Spalding and Rogers the art of printing so well that they carried it on with the help of some of the Indians. In 1844 M. G. Foley, an emigrant of that year, was employed to take charge of it, and his name appears as printer on some of the booklets. In 1846, six persons in Salem, Oregon, wished to publish a paper: Daniel Leslie, Joseph Holman, W. H. Wilson, J. B. McClaine and Messrs. Robinson and Judson. They sent A. Hinman to see if the mission press could be obtained. Having interviewed all the missionaries, he obtained it on certain conditions, and packed it on horseback to The Dalles. The conditions were such, however, that the company de clined to accept them, and the press remained at The Dalles until •iter the Whitman massacre, when, with the consent of Mr. Spalding, Rev. J. S. Griffin took it to his home near Hillsboro, and printed on it eight numbers of the "Oregon American and Evangelical Unionist." It remained with Mr. Griffin for a score or so of years, when it was taken to Salem and deposited in the State Historical Rooms. After wards the Oregon Historical Society obtained it, and removed it to their rooms for historical relics at Portland, where it now rests. It has not been used since about 1849. 108 Marcus Whitman enly Parent thus sorely to afflict them. Mrs. Whitman very humbly remarked, 'It has been a great pleasure to take care of our little one thus far, and I can cheerfully give her up.' " She was buried on the 27th, Mr. Pambrun of Fort Walla Walla, and a few domestics being present. Mr. Spalding preached the sermon from II. Kings iv:26. "She is the first of our num ber," he said, "to find a grave in these dark regions." He and his wife remained at Waiilatpu for a week, after which the Doctor and Mrs. Whitman went home with them for a short time. The missionaries were not angels, but human beings, and there was considerable trouble between some of them about this time, especially between Messrs. Gray, Spalding, Whitman and Smith. On account of this Dr. Whitman had concluded to leave the mission and take the consequences ; but the read ing of Henry on "Meekness" checked him, and the death of Alice completely broke down all his hard feelings. Thus the affliction was so overruled that it played no unimportant part in keeping the Doctor in the mission, and consequently in the performance of his subsequent great life-work. In regard to this event Mrs. Whitman wrote that on that morning, at family prayers, Alice had chosen for the hymn to be sung, "Rock of Ages," which was a favorite of hers. It being the Sabbath, it was sung again at the services at noon. She sang it with great clearness and with such ecstacy as al most to lift her out of her chair. "And no wonder," says her mother, "for what words could be more appropriate to her than those : 'While I draw this fleeting breath, When my eyelids close in death, When I rise to worlds unknown, And behold Thee on Thy throne, Rock of Ages ! cleft for me Let me hide myself in thee.' " Her mother added, "That we loved her most ardently is true, and it is no less true that we feel keenly the severe pangs of a separation from her, who was so much the joy and comfort of our hearts in our lonely situation, yet it is the Lord that Mission Work 109 hath done it and He hath dealt with us as a tender parent deals with the children whom he loves. O, how often have I felt and thought what a privilege it would be, if I could see and unburden to my dear parents the sorrows of my broken and bleeding heart, since we have been bereft of our dear, sweet babe. Although deprived of this inestimable consolation, yet, dearest father, I desire to ask you to unite with us in praise and gratitude to God, that He has so mercifully sustained me, and that when crushed to the earth, because His hand lay heavily upon me, His grace was manifest to preserve and sus tain my soul from murmuring or repining at His dealings with us. This unspeakable consolation is ours, and our daughter is at rest in the bosom of Him who said, 'Suffer little children to come unto me, for of such is the kingdom of Heaven.' We rejoice, too, that we have been permitted to become parents, and that she has been spared to us as long as she was, and for the pleasure we had of witnessing the development of her ardent, active mind. "On what a tender thread hang these mortal frames, and how soon we vanish and are gone. She will not come to me, but I shall soon go to her. You know not, neither can I tell you, how much He comforts and sustains me in this trying moment. He enables me to say, 'The Lord gave, and the Lord hath taken away; blessed, ever blessed be the name of the Lord.' " The arrival of Catholic missionaries about this time was a source of trial to Dr. Whitman. The first were Vicar General F. N. Blanchet and Rev. M. Demers, who reached Fort Walla Walla November 18th, 1838. They remained at first but one day, celebrating mass and baptising three persons. As this was the nearest that these priests came to any of the mission stations of the American Board, it was not strange that Dr. Whitman was more affected than the other missionaries. Mr. P. C. Pambrun, then in charge of the Fort, was a Catholic, and although his family were at Vancouver, yet his three girls and wife were baptized there in December, and the marriage of Mr. and Mrs. Pambrun was blessed on the same day by the priest. While Mr. Pambrun was personally very kind to the Whitmans, yet Mrs. Whitman says that he secured the baptism 1 1 0 Marcus Whitman of one of the principal Cayuses, and acted upon his band, keeping many away who would gladly have come to them. In 1841 he was accidentally injured by a horse and died. His place was then filled by Archibald McKinley, a Scotch Presby terian, and a very true friend to the Whitmans. Both the Catholic and Protestant missionaries of that day agree in saying that the object of the Catholics at that time was to draw the minds of the Indians away from the Protes tant missionaries. In October, 1839, Mrs. Whitman wrote: "A Catholic priest has recently been at Walla Walla, and held meetings with the Indians, and used their influence to draw all the people away from us. Some they have forbidden to visit us again, and fill all of their minds with distraction about the truths we teach and their own doctrines; say we have been talking about their bad hearts long enough, and too long, say we ought to have baptized them long ago, etc., etc. The con flict has begun; what trials await us we know not." Still there was some encouragement. In October, 1839, Mrs. Whitman wrote, "We never had greater encouragement about the Indians than at the present time." The Cayuses became much interested in the books printed in their language, and that was an incentive to them to attend the school, so that in the same month the Doctor wrote that the school had aver aged sixty or eighty scholars for a month. The following incident, of which the Doctor wrote, which occurred about this time, was one of the encouraging items of his life. An Indian boy lay dying. The father said to him, "You are dying now, do you know it?" He replied, "I am not dying ; I shall always live. This will be but for a little while, and then I shall always live." The father again said, "Do you think?" He replied, "Yes, I think." "What do you think about?" was the question. "About Heaven. I love God more than any one else," was the reply; and he died without a struggle or groan, like going to sleep. In 1839 Rev. J. S. Griffin, Mr. A. Munger, and their wives arrived at Dr. Whitman's. They were independent mission aries to the Indians, not being under any missionary society, but intending to support themselves. Mr. Griffin and his wife soon went to Mr. Spalding's, where they worked during the Mission Work 1 1 1 winter. Afterwards, having tried one or two plans for work ing alone among the Indians, and finding them impracticable, they went to the Willamette Valley, settled near Hillsboro, and remained there as long as they lived, both dying at a good old age. Mr. Munger was a good mechanic, and as Dr. Whitman was needing one, he remained at Waiilatpu during the winter. Afterwards he became partly deranged, and it was thought best for him to return East. He started with his wife and infant child, in company with a Hudson's Bay Company party, in 1841. When, however, they reached the American Rendez vous on Green River, they found no representatives of the American Fur Company there, and so had to turn back. On the way he became worse, and burned and otherwise injured himself so that he died. Mrs. Munger then went to the Will amette, married Henry Buxton, Sr., and lived at Forest Grove for many years. Another person, afterwards well known in Oregon, to come to Dr. Whitman's that year was William Geiger, who, with a Mr. Johnson from New York, arrived in August, 1839. Mr. Geiger had lived in Mrs. Whitman's town of Angelica. He passed on to the Willamette, but came back in 1842 and had charge of Dr. Whitman's station during the winter of 1842-3, while the Doctor went East. He was there again in 1845 and 1846 as teacher. He settled at Forest Grove, Oregon. Another person to arrive was Mr. T. J. Farnham. He did not remain long in the country, but was quite a writer, publish ing two books about his travels on the Pacific Coast. In his Travels Across the Great Western Prairies, the Anahuac and Rocky Mountains,1 he gives the following account of his arrival and visit at Dr. Whitman's, which is here given both because it is by one not connected with the mission, and because it is much more full on some points than any by the missionaries : "September 23rd. A ride of five miles brought us in sight of the groves around the mission. We crossed the river, passed the Indian encampment hard by, and were at the gate of the mission fields in presence of Dr. Whitman. He was speaking "P. 147, etc. 1 1 2 Marcus Whitman Skyuse [Cayuse] at the top of his voice to some lazy Indians, who were driving their cattle from his garden, and giving or ders to others to yoke the oxen, get the axes, and go into the forest for the lower sleepers of the new mission house. Mr. Hall, printer at the Sandwich Islands, soon appeared in work ing dress, with his ax on his shoulder. Next came Mr. Munger, pulling the pine shavings from his plane. All seemed desirous to ask me how long a balloon line had been running between the States and the Pacific, by which single individuals crossed the Continent.1 The oxen were, however, yoked and axes glis tening in the sun, and no time to spend, if they would return from their labor before nightfall, so that the whence and the wherefore of my sudden appearance among them were left for an after explanation. The Doctor introduced me to his ex cellent lady and departed to his labor. "The afternoon was spent in listless rest from the toils of my journey. At sunset, however, I strolled out and took a bird's-eye view of the plantation and plain of the Walla Walla. The old mission house stands on the northeast bank of the river, about four rods from the water side, at the southeast corner of an enclosure containing about two hundred and fifty acres, two hundred of which are under good cultivation. The soil is a thin stratum of clay, mixed with sand, and a small proportion of vegetable mold, resting on a base of coarse gravel. Through this gravel water from the Walla Walla filtrates, and by capillary attraction is raised to the roots of vegetation in the incumbent earth. The products are wheat, Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, Irish potatoes, etc., in the fields ; and beets, carrots, onions, turnips, rutabagas, water, musk and nutmeg melons, squashes, asparagus, tomatoes, cucumbers, peas, etc., in the garden — all of good quality and abundant crops. The Doctor returned near night with his timber, and appeared gratified that he had been able to find the requisite number of sufficient size to support the floor. Tea came on and passed away in earnest conversation about native land, and friends left there, of the pleasures they derived from their present oc- 1 Mr. F. had come the last part of the way alone, except as he had his Indian guide and the guide's family for company. Mission Work 1 1 3 cupation, and the trials that befell them while commencing the mission, and afterwards. "The morning of the 24th opened in the loveliest hues of the sky. When the smoking vegetables, the hissing steak, bread white as snow, and the newly churned butter, graced the table, and the happy countenances of countrymen and countrywomen shone around, I could with difficulty believe my self in a country so far distant from, and so unlike my native land and all its features. But during breakfast this pleasant illusion was dispelled by one of the causes which induced it. Our steak was horseflesh! On such meat this poor family live on most of the time. It enables them to exist, to do the Indians good, and thus satisfies them. But can it satisfy those who give money for the missionaries that the allowance by their agents for the support of those who abandon parents and home, and surrender themselves not only to the mercy of the savages, but their offspring also, and should be so meager as to compel them to eat horseflesh? This necessity existed in 1839 at Walla Walla. "The breakfast being over, the Doctor invited me to stroll over his premises. The garden was first examined — its loca tion on the banks of the Walla Walla, the beautiful tomato and other vegetables burdening the grounds. Next, to the fields. The Doctor's views of the soil and its mode of receiving moisture from the river were such as I have previously ex pressed. Then, to the new hous§. The adobe walls had been erected a year. It was about 40x120 feet, and one and a half stories high. To the main building was attached another of equal height, designed for a kitchen, with chambers above de signed for servants. Mr. Munger and a Sandwich Islander were laying the floors, making the doors, etc. The lumber was a very superior quality of yellow pine plank, which Dr. Whitman had cut with a whip-saw among the Blue Mountains, fifteen miles distant. Next, to the 'corral.' A fine yoke of oxen, two cows, an American bull, the beginning of a stock of hogs, were thereabouts. At last, to the grist-mill. It con sisted of a spherical wrought-iron burr, four or five inches in diameter, surrounded by a counterburred surface of the same materials. The spherical burr was permanently attached to a 1 1 4 Marcus Whitman shaft of a horizontal waterwheel. The surrounding surface was firmly fastened to timbers in such a position that when the water-wheel was put in motion the operation of the mill was similar to that of a coffee mill. It was a crazy thing, but for it the Doctor was grateful. It would, with the help of him self and an Indian, grind enough in a day to feed his family for a week, and that was better than to beat it with a pestle and a mortar. It appeared to me quite remarkable that the Doctor should have made so many improvements since the year 1836 ; but the industry which crowded every hour of the day, his untiring energy of character, and the very efficient aid of his wife in relieving him in a great degree from the labors of the school, are perhaps circumstances which render possi bility probable, that in three years one man, without funds for such purposes, without other aid for that business than that of a fellow missionary for short intervals, should fence, plow, build, plant an orchard, and do all the other laborious acts of opening a plantation on the face of that distant wilderness, learn an Indian language, and do the duties, meanwhile, of physician to the associate stations on the Clearwater and Spo kane. In the afternoon Dr. Whitman and his lady assembled the Indians for instruction in reading. Forty or fifty children between the ages of seven and eighteen, and several older peo ple, gathered on the shady side of the new mission house, at the ringing of a hand bell, and seated themselves in an orderly manner on ranges of wooden benches. The Doctor then wrote monosyllables, words, and instructive sentences on a large blackboard suspended on a wall, and proceeded first to teach them the nature and power of the letters, in representing the simple sounds of the language, and then the construction of words, and their uses in forming sentences expressive of thought. The sentences written during these operations were at last read, syllable by syllable, and word after word, and ex plained, until the sentiments contained in them were compre hended. And it was delightful to notice the undisguised avid ity with which these people would devour a new idea. It seemed to produce a thrill of delight that kindled up the coun tenances, and animated the whole frame. A hymn in the Nez Perce language, learned by rote from their teachers, was then THE PRINTING PRESS Mission Work 1 1 5 sung, and the exercises closed with prayer by Dr. Whitman in the same tongue. "Twenty-fifth. I was awakened at early dawn by the merry sounds of clapping boards, the ax, the hammer, and the plane — the sweet melodies of the parent of virtue at the cradle of civilization. When I rose, everything was in motion. I said everything was alive. Not so. The Skyuse village was in the deepest slumber, save a few solitary individuals, who were stalking with slow and stately tread up a neighboring butte to descry the retreat of their animals. Their conical skin lodges dotted the valley above the mission, and imparted to the land scape a peculiar wildness. As the sun rose, the inmates began to emerge from them. "This is the imperial tribe of Oregon. They are also a tribe of merchants (often doing the trading between the Indians east of the Blue Mountains and those towards The Dalles). They own large numbers of horses. A Skyuse is thought to be poor who has not fifteen or twenty of them. One fat, hearty old fellow owns something over two thousand, all wild except so many as he needs for use or sale. "Twenty-seventh. I attended the Indian school today. Mrs. Whitman is an indefatigable instructress. The children read in monosyllables from a primer lately published at the Clear water station. They afterwards sung. They learn music readily. At nightfall I visited the Indian lodges in company with Dr. Whitman. The Skyuse have two distinct languages — the one used in ordinary intercourse, the other on extraor dinary occasions, as in war, councils, etc. Both are said to be copious and expressive. They also speak the Nez Perce and Walla Walla. "The course pursued by Dr. Whitman and the other Pres byterian missionaries to improve the Indians is to teach them the Nez Perce language, according to fixed grammatical rules, for the purpose of opening to them the arts and religion of civilized nations through the medium of books. They also teach them practical agriculture and the useful arts for the purpose of civilizing their physical condition. By these means they hope to make them a better and happier people. "This was the evening before the Sabbath, and Dr. Whit- 1 1 6 Marcus Whitman man, as his custom was, invited one of the most intelligent In dians into his study, translated to him the text of Scripture, from which he intended to teach the tribe on the morrow, ex plained to him its doctrines, and required of him to explain in return. This was repeated again and again, until the Indian obtained a clear understanding of its doctrines. "The 29th was the Sabbath. At 10 o'clock, the Skyuse as sembled for worship in the open air. The exercises were ac cording to the Presbyterian form — the hymn, the prayer, the hymn, the sermon, the hymn, and the blessing, all in the Nez Perce tongue. The principal peculiarity about the exercises was the mode of delivering the discourse. When Dr. Whitman arose and announced the text, the Indian, who had been in structed on the previous night, rose and repeated it, and as the address proceeded, repeated it also, by sentence or para graph, till it was finished. This is the custom of the Skyuse in all their public speaking; and the benefit resulting from it, in this case, apparently, was giving the doctrines which the Doctor desired to inculcate a clearer expression in the proper idiom of the language. During the recess the children assem bled in the Sabbath-school. In the afternoon the service was similar to that of the morning. Everything was conducted with much solemnity. After the service the Indians gathered in their lodges and conversed together concerning what they had heard. If doubt arose as to any point, it was solved by the instructed Indian. Thus passed the Sabbath among the Skyuse." Mr. Farnham had belonged to what was called the "Peoria Party," organized at Peoria, Illinois, in the spring of 1839, largely because of the lectures and influence of Rev. Jason Lee of the Methodist mission, who had returned in 1838 for more help. It was originally composed of nineteen men, none of whom knew anything of mountain life. Their avowed object was to take possession of Oregon for the United States, and they carried a flag, given them by Mrs. Farnham, on which was the motto, "Oregon or the Grave." When asked if they thought their party sufficient to drive out the Hudson's Bay Company, their Captain, Mr. Farnham, replied, "O, yes, plenty." They did not, however, get along well together ; seven Mission Work 1 1 7 returned to Peoria. The rest became demoralized, and divided. A few reached Oregon that year, others wintered in the moun tains and finished their journey the next year. Among them was Robert Shortess, who wintered at Dr. Whitman's and pro ceeded down the Columbia the next March. In his account of the party, he speaks quite favorably of Dr. Whitman's mission and the few Indians there.1 Mr. Farnham in this account refers to the eating of horse flesh. During all the earlier years of the mission cattle were altogether too scarce and too valuable to use for food. The Hudson's Bay Company had all there were in the country, ex cept those owned by the missions, and that Company would not sell any. The missionaries wished to get enough cattle for their own use, and also enough to begin small bands for the Indians; hence they seldom, if ever, at first, killed them for food, and so horseflesh was a common article of food. The horses, however, used for this purpose were not those which were old and worn out and good for nothing else; but as horses were very abundant, they used the best there were, fattened on the rich bunch grass of the region, and not as unpalatable as some might suppose. It is said that at one time, after cattle became so abundant that beef was occasion ally used, there was company at the Doctor's, one man of whom said he would never eat horseflesh; he would go with out meat rather than do it. At meal time the Doctor said: "Gentlemen, there are two kinds of meat on the table — beef and horseflesh. I shall not help you to either, but you may help yourselves, .and we will see whether you can tell the dif ference." They looked at both carefully, helped themselves, and when they had finished that man was quietly told that he had eaten the horseflesh and left the beef. In 1837 Mrs. Whitman wrote that they had bought and killed ten wild horses of the Indians as a supply for their men and visitors, but she added in the letter to her friends, "This will make you pity us, but you had better save your pity for more worthy subjects. I do not prefer it to other meat, but can eat it very well when we have nothing else." 1 For a full account of this party see "Oregon Pioneer Transac tions," 1896, p. 92. 1 1 8 Marcus Whitman In 1838 the first cow used for beef east of the Cascades was killed. She was twenty years old, without a tooth in her head, and belonged to the Hudson's Bay Company. Being useless to keep longer, she was beefed at Fort Walla Walla and a part was sent to Dr. Whitman's station. In October, 1841, horse-meat went out of use there. Seven hogs were killed that fall at Dr. Whitman's, also a beef fed on grass, which yielded a hundred and forty-eight pounds of tal low after it was tried out. Mrs. Whitman then wrote, "We do not need to kill any more horses for meat." Returning now to the missionary work, we find that the next winter there were but few Indians at the station, they being absent for food, but they returned in the spring so as to plant their crops. The interest in agriculture seemed to in crease. They wished to buy hoes and plows for themselves, and they seemed to feel that they cultivated the land for their own benefit, and not to please the Doctor as they had previ ously done. The school during that winter numbered ten schol ars, and was taught by Mrs. Whitman ; but as the Indians re turned it increased to forty or fifty. A new book, just printed, of fifty-two pages, larger and more correct than the first one, made a fine addition to their means of instruction. The following winter (1840-41) the Doctor and his family were much afflicted with sickness, and consequently were able to do but little for the Indians. The Doctor, however, held the usual Sabbath services, except when he was sick abed, and then Mr. Gray supplied his place. The Indians were very quiet, having settled some important difficulties among themselves; a troublesome chief, Cutlip, died, and the rest appeared better disposed than ever toward the mission work. The demand for plows was greater than the supply, and the interest in farming increased. In a letter to his brother, dated May, 1841, the Doctor gives the following account of his labors and sickness: "My labor was excessive last fall, after the death of our dear Joseph. At the same time I was called suddenly to go to Mr. Smith's sta tion, which I did, without sufficient precaution for my health. After I got home, we had much to do to prepare for winter, and, winter approaching, we had much to do to prepare a race Mission Work 1 1 9 for our mill, at which I worked very hard. By these several causes I was reduced to the same affliction of which I com plained before I left the United States. "After taking medicine for two weeks, and feeling some what relieved, I was called to see a sick man at Walla Walla, twenty-five miles distant. Mrs. Whitman went with me. We stayed two nights. In the morning we found that the water had risen, so that on returning it was most difficult to cross. Mrs. Whitman was on a strong horse, and, by having her saddle set up high, and putting on my boots, she came across safely. Unfortunately, I chose a tall but weak horse, and set myself with both feet on one side of the horse, to try and keep out of the water. But in crossing the beast rolled and tumbled until she threw me into the water, and I had to swim some rods to the shore. J had on a great many clothes to keep me from ex posure, as 1 had been taking blue pills for nearly three weeks. It was the last of December. Some Indians, in passing at the same time, were there and had a fire, and rendered us very im portant assistance. We were yet twelve miles from home, but by means of two blankets, which we had kept dry, I was en abled to wrap up and keep comfortable, while my clothes were so far dried as to enable me to come back by substituting a blanket for my overcoat. But the second day after I found myself so much worse that I was obliged to be bled, and for' some weeks I kept my bed and room, and from that time to this I have not recovered, nor do I ever expect fully to do so. I am, however, now in comfortable health, but unfit for bodily labori I have no idea that you know how hard I have worked in this country, besides all my care, both of my family and the Indians, and the labor of acquiring the language and teaching the people and going at the calls of the mission." The following item from a letter of March, 1841, shows plainly Mrs. Whitman's feelings about herself: "Of all per sons, I see myself to be the most unfit for the place I occupy on heathen ground. I wonder that I was ever permitted to come; not that I would shrink from anything the Lord would call me to endure, but that I am unworthy of a place or a name among His chosen people, especially His dear missionaries." The Joseph mentioned in the Doctor's letter was a Ha- 120 Marcus Whitman waiian who had been with the Doctor some years, and was one of the original members of the church. He was very faithful ; the Doctor depended much on him, and felt his loss greatly. He died August 8, 1840. Mrs. Whitman says of him : "Our loss is very great. He was so faithful and kind ; always anx ious and ready to relieve us of every care, so that we might give ourselves to our appropriate missionary work, increasingly so to the last. He died as a faithful Christian missionary dies — happy to die in the field — rejoiced that he was permitted to come and labor for the good of the Indians, while his heart was in Heaven all the time. Who that could witness him in his dying moments and see the calm and sweet serenity of his countenance, but would feel it to be a privilege to be a mis sionary and be the means of saving one suah soul from the midst of a heathen darkness. His wife is just as faithful, but she is a feeble person. I know not how we could do with out her." She, however, returned to the Sandwich Islands in 1841 with Rev. A. B. Smith. In 1840 Rev. Harvey Clark and Messrs. P. B. Littlejohn, Alvin T. Smith and their wives arrived at Dr. Whitman's and stayed for a while. They also came as independent mission aries to the Indians, but found it impracticable. Mr. Clark settled at Forest Grove, in Oregon, where he organized a Con gregational Church, and laid the foundation of Tualatin Acad emy and Pacific University. He died there March 25, 1858. Mr. Smith went to Mr. Spalding's and worked for a time, but afterwards settled at Forest Grove, where he was known as a firm, upright Christian, and where he died at a good old age. This company remained at Dr. Whitman's at least two months, and their society was appreciated. Mrs. Whitman wished that Mr. Clark had been connected with the mission of the American Board, for she felt that he would have been a very valuable acquisition, but under their instructions from the Board it could not be. That fall these three couples, besides Mr. Griffin, Mr. Mun ger, Mr. Gray and their wives, were all at the Doctor's at one time, making two houses full. In regard to this plan of independent missionaries, Mrs. Whitman wrote: "We wish Mission Work 121 that they had come out under the Board, both for our sakes, theirs, and the mission cause. We fear they will suffer. At any rate, they cannot do anything at present, and for a good while to come, of missionary work, but take care of themselves. We hope no more will come in this way. Those who came last year got themselves into difficulties when they started; it in creased all the way, and they still are not reconciled, and we fear never will be. They are living upon us ; have done noth ing yet, but explore a little, and appear to know not what to do, but rather die than to give up their plans and say to the Christian world, 'It is wrong to go out in opposition to the Board.' " The housekeeping arrangements were for a long time a trial. Even as late as 1840 the Whitmans were living in the house they first built, which was very open. It was of adobes, or sun burnt brick. They began a new one in 1838, but were not able to finish it so as to move into it until 1840, after Mr. Munger came to help them. There was no good wood for boards nearer than the Blue Mountains, about fifteen miles away, and no wagons, so that it was necessary to drag some of the timber on sleds that distance, and then saw them with pit-saws. At other times they sawed them in the mountains and packed the boards on horses to the station. For tables, bedsteads and the like, they used the alder which grew near home. For lime to whitewash the adobes they burned fresh water clam shells. It was a great relief for them when the house was finished, to move where they could have a room or two to themselves, after living thus for four years, where Mrs. Whitman had to do her cooking generally in the presence of the Indians, who would come in whenever they wished. To clean after them was also a great trial both to her feelings and also to her strength, but she felt that she must do it, for they had come to elevate the Indians, and not to sink down to a level with them. A cook stove received in 1842 is spoken of as a great comfort and help. During 1841 there was much trouble with the Indians, who demanded the right to go into any room they pleased, to have pay for the use of their lands, to have Dr. Whitman teach them that part of the Bible which they wanted to hear and not 1 22 Marcus Whitman what he thought best (for they did not like to hear about their sins), to turn their horses into his gardens and corn field, and the like, but as all this may have some reference to his death, it will be reserved for a separate chapter. Yet, notwithstand ing all these difficulties, there was not a word of murmuring or complaint or a desire to return East, even on a visit. In 1840 Mrs. Whitman wrote: "Our united choice would be to live and die here, to spend our lives for the salvation of this people. We have ever been contented ¦ and happy, notwith standing all our trials, and let come what will, we had rather die in the battle than to retreat, if the Lord will only appear for us, and remove all that is in the way of His salvation, take up every stumbling block out of our hearts and from this mis sion, and prosper His own cause here. Our ardent prayer is, 'Lord, let not this mission fail,' for our Board says it is the last effort they will make for the poor Indians." We will now take another view of Dr. Whitman's mission, as it was seen by Mr. Joseph Drayton, of Commodore Wilkes' exploring squadron, which visited the Coast in 1841. He and his companions reached the place about dark, and were wel comed by Dr. Whitman and Mr. and Mrs. Gray. This account says that there were two houses built of adobes to insure cooler habitation in summer. "All the premises looked comfortable. They have a fine kitchen garden, in which grow all the vegetables raised in the United States, and several kinds of fine melons. The wheat — some of which stood seven feet high — was in full head and nearly ripe. Indian corn was in tassel, and some of it meas ured nine feet in height. They will reap this year about three hundred bushels of wheat, with a quantity of corn and pota toes. The missionaries live quite comfortably and seem con tented. They are, however, not free from apprehensions of Indian depredations. Dr. Whitman, being an unusually large and athletic man, is held in much respect by the Indians, and they have made use of his services as a physician, which does not seem to carry with it so much danger here as among the tribes of the lower country, or farther north. The mission aries have quite a number of cattle and horses, which require little or no attention. As respects missionary success, it is Mission Work 123 very small here. The Indians are disposed to wander, and seldom continue more than three or four months in the same place. After they return from the Grand Ronde, which is in July, they remain for three or four months, and then move off to the north and east to hunt buffalo. Dr. Whitman has 124 on his rolls, male and female, that receive instruction in the course of the year. He preaches to them on the Sabbath when they are on the Walla Walla River. The school consists of about twenty-five scholars daily, and there is some little dispo sition to improve in these Indians. The great aim of the missionaries is to teach them that they may obtain a sufficient quantity of food by cultivating the ground. Many families have now patches of wheat, corn and potatoes growing well, and a number of these are to be seen near the missionary farm. The Indians have learned the necessity of irrigating their crops by finding that Dr. Whitman's succeeded better than their own. They therefore desired to take some of the water from his trenches, instead of making new ones of their own, which he very naturally refused. They then stopped up the Doctor's. This had well-nigh produced much difficulty, but finally they were made to understand that there was water enough for both, and they now use it with as much success as the mis sionaries." At the other stations of the mission the work was carried on with varying success. At Tshimakain, where Messrs. Walker and Eells labored, there was a school most of the time and regular preaching. At first the Indians were quite enthusiastic, but as the novelty wore off, the work became more difficult. The Spokane Indians were by no means as intelli gent and enterprising as the Nez Perces and Cayuses, and the work during the lifetime of the mission was never as encour aging as that among the other tribes, but it was quite deep and in the end brought forth excellent results. At Kamiah, among the Nez Perces, where Mr. Smith and his wife had gone, there had been some troubles, mainly about land in 1840, so that Mr. Spalding and Dr. Whitman had been called to go there to assist in settling them, but before they arrived all had been peaceably settled. However, in the spring of 1842 Mr. Smith found his own health somewhat impaired and that 124 Marcus Whitman of Mrs. Smith alarmingly so, and they felt it best to leave the place and go to the genial climate of the Sandwich Islands. This they did in 1841, and the station was not afterwards oc cupied by any missionaries of the American Board. At Mr. Spalding's there was more successful work than at any other of the stations. The Indians took great interest in agriculture, the school, and religion. Two protracted meet ings were held among them, one in the winter of 1838-9, and the other during that of 1841-2. Thousands attended these, and here in November, 1839, the first two Indians joined the mission church, Timothy and Joseph. The former was ever noted as a friend to the whites and one who clung to his re ligion, even when all teachers had been driven away; but the latter turned at the time of the massacre of Dr. Whitman, pillaged Mr. Spalding's house, and was the father of the young Joseph who became renowned as the leader in the war against the whites in 1877. There were discouragements here, how ever, so that both Mr. Spalding and his wife were insulted, his mill dam was torn away, and the gate at the head of his ditch was carried away. In 1841 Mr. Eogers resigned his connection with the mis sion and went to the Willamette Valley, and ih 1842 Mr. Gray and family followed him, thus leaving three stations, with four men and their wives to manage them. Two missionaries, how ever, had been sent from the East by the Board to join the mission in November, 1840, Eev. J. D. Paris and Mr. W. H. Eice, with their wives. These started by water and reached the Sandwich Islands in May, 1841. The Methodist missions in the Willamette received three reinforcements by way of Cape Horn. The first arrived in May, 1837, and consisted of Dr. E. White, A. Beers, and their wives, W. H. Wilson, Miss Susan Downing, Miss Elvira John son and Miss Ann M. Pitman. Of these Miss Pitman was mar ried to Eev. Jason Lee and Miss Downing to Cyrus Shepherd July 16th, 1837, the first white marriages on the Pacific Coast. Mrs. Lee died July 16th, 1838. Dr. White remained in con nection with the mission until 1841, when he resigned and re turned East, whereupon he was appointed Sub-Indian Agent for Oregon, the first United States officer for the Pacific Coast. Mission Work 125 He continued in this capacity until 1845, when he returned East to remain. The second reinforcement arrived in Septem ber, 1837, and consisted of Eev. Mr. Leslie and family, Eev. H. K. W. Perkins and wife, and Miss Margaret Smith. The third reinforcement arrived in May, 1840, because of the per sonal work of Rev. J. Lee, whose return East in 1838 has al ready been mentioned. This consisted of thirty-six adults and seventeen children. Among them were Reverends A. F. Waller, G. Hines, J. L. Parrish, L. H. Judson and J. Olley, Dr. L. H. Bagcock, and Mr. (afterwards Governor) George Abernethy. With this assistance missions were begun among the Indians at Clatsop under Mr. Parrish, at Nisqually under Mr. Richmond, and at The Dalles under Messrs. D. Lee and Perkins, while others labored among the whites. Of other settlers in Oregon in 1840, nearly all of whom were in the Willamette Valley, there were, outside of the Hudson's Bay Company, thirty-six Americans, twenty-five of whom had native wives. Many of these had been trappers in the moun tains, but had settled at last in the garden spot of Oregon. Including all who were connected with the missions there were a hundred and thirty-seven Americans and sixty-three Canadian French. In 1841 Mrs. Whitman speaks of an emi gration of twenty-four persons, two of them with a large num ber of children. In 1842 a larger emigration came, organized mainly through the efforts of Dr. E. White, who came with it after his appointment as Sub-Indian Agent. It consisted of about a hundred and ten persons, over fifty of whom were eighteen years old or upwards, and capable of bearing arms. CHAPTER V. MISSION WORK CONTINUED. Some troubles existed in the mission from 1838 to 1842, es pecially between Messrs. Gray, Smith, Spalding and Whitman, and these facts, together with the fact that the Indians did not seem to be as many as were at first estimated and other dis couragements, decided the Prudential Committee of the Board at Boston to send an order to discontinue the stations among the Cayuses and Nez Perces, to discharge Messrs. Spalding, Gray, Rogers and Smith, and to transfer Dr. Whitman to the station among the Spokanes. By the time, however, that this order was received, in the fall of 1842, Messrs. Smith, Gray and Rogers had left the mission voluntarily, and affairs had taken such a favorable turn that a meeting of the mission was held at Dr. Whitman's, September 26-28, 1842, at which it was determined to see if this decision could not be reversed. The mission, as a body, sent a petition to the Board to this ef fect. Mr. Spalding wrote earnestly on the subject. Messrs. Walker and Eells wrote privately their earnest protest, because it would open the way for the Catholics; because it would soon be the death of their station among the Spokanes, as it could not live long if the others should be discontinued, and because, if the southern stations should remain, they would have beneficial influence on the whites who were sure to come. Mr. A. McKinley, then in charge of Fort Walla Walla, wrote in the same line, and Dr. Whitman determined to make a per-' sonal appeal to the Board. There is no evidepce, however, that he would have gone East during the dead of that winter, if at all, had he not had other objects in view. He believed that there was great danger that the Northwest Coast, or a part of it, would fall into the hands of Great Britain, and he wished to visit Washington to see if he could not do some thing to prevent it, and also, as another means for the same Mission Work 127 object, to induce as many emigrants as he could to come to Oregon. But as these are subjects of great importance, they will be discussed separately hereafter. At the same time, however, he intended to try to accomplish two missionary objects. One was to try to induce the Board, if possible, to reverse the decision which would destroy his station and that of Mr. Spalding, and in this he was successful ; the other was to induce a few lay Christian families to come as missionaries, so as to release the regular missionaries from secular pursuits, to contribute to the social and religious advancement of the Indians, and to form the nucleus of settlements, in order to withstand Roman Catholic influence. In this he was not suc cessful, to his great regret. A report of these difficulties reached the Sandwich Islands, so that when Messrs. Paris and Rice arrived there, because of this report and the great need of laborers at the Islands, it was thought best for them to remain there temporarily, an arrangement which was afterwards made permanent by the Board. A part of the immigration of 1842 arrived at Dr. Whitman's September 14. Says Captain Medorem Crawford in his journal of that date : "I was never more pleased to see a house or white people in my life; we were treated by Dr. and Mrs. Whitman with the utmost kindness. We got what provision we wanted on the most reasonable terms." In the immigration was A. L. Lovejoy, then about thirty-two years old. Dr. Whitman asked him if he thought he could go East during that winter, and Mr. Lovejoy thought it might be pos sible. Then the Doctor asked him if he would accompany him, and after a little thought he consented to do so. As this journey was undertaken mainly for the purpose of doing what he could to save the country to the United States, the account of it will be given in a later chapter. After Dr. Whitman's visit to Washington and other places on national business, he went to Boston, where he arrived March 30, 1843. He attended to the missionary business at Boston and secured the rescinding of the order to discontinue the two southern stations of the mission. After spending three days at his former home in New York State, he bade it good-bye forever on the 20th of April, and stated West, with 128 Marcus Whitman his nephew, Perrin B. Whitman, then a young man. Nearly every incident of this journey, worthy of note, has reference to his assistance to the emigration of that year, the first one to reach the Columbia River with wagons, and these services were so great that they will be discussed separately, after this sketch of his missionary life is completed. While at Boston Dr. Whitman made the following state ment about the results of his mission work : "Many are bene fitted by this station who seldom, if ever, bring their families here. Individuals from different places visit us for the pur pose of being taught or receiving medicine, or other favors. Occasional visits are also made to some of these places, and instruction is imparted. In this way an extensive acquain tance is made, and much useful information and religious in struction given. "Those who resort to this station are the Waiilatpu, Walla Walla and Numipa Indians. The attention given to us during religious worship is generally good; instruction is listened to with solemnity and interest. Worship is maintained by the principal men, morning and evening, at which most are pres ent. Those who do not attend have what comes nearer to family worship in their separate lodges. Their migrations do not occasion any departure from this practice, as far as I am apprised. "I have abundant evidence of the restraining power of re ligious truths upon the minds of the natives, both from their remarks and my own observation. A chief of great notoriety for his jugglery has often told me what he would have done in such and such cases, which he named, intimating in what way he would have taken revenge ; but, he added, 'I am now made weak by what I have been taught of my future accountability.' Murder, violence and revenge are a terror to him now. The most violent and ungovernable fits of rage I have ever seen among them have calmly passed into kindness, and perhaps submission, under the restraining influence of the gospel." During the absence of the Doctor in the East, affairs at his station were somewhat checkered. Mrs. Whitman was left there, and arrangements were made for Mr. William Geiger, a young Christian man who had come to the country in 1839, Mission Work 129 to have charge. But Dr. Whitman left so suddenly that Mr. Geiger, who was then in the Willamette Valley, did not arrive until after the Doctor left. Before he arrived, however, and only four days after the Doctor left, an Indian entered the house one night, and attempted to insult Mrs. Whitman; but her own efforts and the presence of a young man in the house, prevented this. Thinking it not prudent to remain there longer, at the urgent request of Mr. McKinley of Fort Walla Walla, who sent a wagon for her, she left the station and went to the fort. Shortly after, she went to the Methodist mis sion at The Dalles, where she remained during the winter, as her health was not very good and she did not feel able to go by land to either of the other stations of the American Board. In May, 1843, she visited her own home, when Dr. E. White held a council with the Cayuses, after which she went to the Willamette and Astoria to visit friends. In November, 1842, the Doctor's grist-mill and several hun- dren bushels of grain were burned by an Indian. Yet, not withstanding these adverse events, before the Doctor returned in the fall of 1843, the Indians seemed anxious to have him come back, and one of them said to Mrs. Whitman, "Oh, that I could eat the word of God to the full !" The following extracts from letters written by her during this time are here inserted, as being of interest. October 4, 1842, she wrote to the Doctor: "The line you sent me today by Aps. did me great good. I thought I was cheerful and happy before it came, but, on the perusal of it, I found that it increased my happiness fourfold. I believe the Lord will pre serve me from being anxious about you, and I was glad to hear you say, with so much confidence, that you trusted in Him for safety. He will protect you, I firmly believe. Night and day shall my prayer ascend to Him in your behalf, and the cause for which you have sacrificed the endearments of home, at the risk of your life, to see advancing more to the honor and glory of God. Mr. Gray and family did not leave here till this morning." Saturday evening, 8th. I do not feel as lonely this evening as I have always formerly done when you have been away. I hope you do not have a sad moment about me. Where are you 1 30 Marcus Whitman tonight, my love, preparing to spend the holy Sabbath? My heart has met thine at the mercy-seat, and I trust blessings are in store for you on the morrow, both for body and mind; and, methinks, you have taken leave of Monsieur Payette and gone a comfortable day beyond. Again, let me say, be not anxious for me, for the sympathies of all are excited for me the moment they hear you have gone. I shall be well taken care of, and, no doubt, have more letters to answer than I am able to write. Received one today from Mr. Spalding, express ing the kindest sympathy and concern, both for you and my self, and desire for the success of your undertaking. It is the Lord sustains me. I know it is that, or I should not feel as happy about you as I do. Oh, may we continue to feel it until we are both brought together again, rejoicing in His goodness! . . . How will you feel, dear husband, when you seat yourself in sister Julia's house, or with our mothers, and do not see the windows filled with Indians, and the doors, also? Will you not feel lost? I can scarcely imagine how you will feel. Could it, consistently with duty, have been so, I should rejoice to be a partaker with you of the feelings pro duced by a visit to those dear firesides, but I am happy in re maining while you are permitted the prospect, and I hope the reality, of seeing those beloved objects once more. 9th. Sabbath Eve. My dear husband would like to know what kind of a Sabbath we have had here, for I know his heart is with this people. Ellis [a Nez Perce Chief], who brought me Mr. Spalding's letter, was their minister today. This af ternoon I had a Bible class in English with him, John and Mungo [Hawaiians], besides the time I spent with the chil dren. He read, and appeared to understand very well. He thinks he loves the Saviour. I urged the duty of secret prayer, in addition to family worship, and showed him the passage in Matthew. He said he would in the future attend to the duty daily. He told me yesterday that if he had been here he would have gone with you to the States. Although I am alone as to associates, and my husband is gone, yet I have not been lonely today. The presence of the Saviour fills every vacancy. My little children appear thoughtful and solemn." Under date of February 7, 1843, Mrs. Whitman wrote from Mission Work 131 Washkopam (The Dalles) to her parents, as follows: "It is with feelings of interest that I think of the home of my child hood; and why should I not, since every object I hold most dear on earth is there? Last evening was monthly concert; being too feeble to meet with the brethren and sisters here, I spent most of the evening in my room. How can I describe the hallowed influences that seemed to be shed around me, the inward peace and sacred sense of the presence of God in my soul. I could think of nothing else, but surely beloved friends must be praying for me. This cannot be in answer to my own individual prayers that I perceive all this. I felt as if in spirit I was in the midst of that loved circle, feeling the in fluence, and enjoying the sweets with you. My father, my mother, my sisters and brothers, and my beloved husband, too — what earthly objects can be dearer to me than these? They are my all, yet widely separated from me. I speak as if you were enjoying the society of my dear husband, and at this time, if the Lord has spared his life, and prospered him, according to his and my expectations, you are. Beloved parents, what do you think of your lonely child in this lonely world? You pray for her, I know; you must, or she would not feel the al most constant support of the Saviour's presence, which is granted under the trying circumstances in which I am placed. How do you like to see your son? How do you enjoy his so ciety, after so long an absence? Did you ever dream of seeing him there without me? I flatter myself that it would add a little to the happiness of you all, if I was there with him. I am sure it would to mine, but if you enjoy his and make him happy, I shall be satisfied. I never have felt much as though I should see my friends again in the flesh. Since my husband has gone without me, I feel it more doubtful than ever; but we know not in what way the Lord may lead us. It is a great satisfaction to me to think that he will see them, and be able to give me information concerning them which I can get in no other way, and from no other source, should the Lord spare him to me. . . . My eyes are almost gone ; my poor health affects them materially, and writing is very injurious to me. I am spending a very happy winter here, and I trust that it has been, and will be for my spiritual good. The society and 132 Marcus Whitman progress of such a society of living and growing Christians is very refreshing to me1 after having lived so much alone, im- merged in care and toil." Most of the rest of the letter is occupied with an account of the burning of their mill, the councils with the Cayuses, a visit with Mr. C. Rogers and his death, and that of others at Oregon City by drowning, and her feelings about it. She closes with the following, which with the foregoing, probably gives the best picture of her own inner life extant : "It is very try ing to be here in this desolate land without my husband, and were it not for sustaining grace I should sink under it; but the favors of the Lord are many and great, in giving us so many friends to cheer and comfort us. My health is very poor. This increases the trial. In consequence, I have too many gloomy and despairing and dark forebodings, which I have not strength to rise above. The Lord gives me much of His gracious presence and increased spiritual enjoyment in communion with Him, for which I desire to be thankful. My paper will not contain all that a poor heart pants to pour forth into the bosom of dear, long-absent parents ; a privilege which would doubtless be too much for my weak nature to endure. With pleasing delight I look forward to that happy time when we may meet in yonder happy world, and enjoy in full fruition what eye hath not seen nor ear heard of things prepared for us. I love you all increasingly, and shall till I die. Believe me, dear friends, I am happy in making this sacrifice for Christ — it is for Him we have made it, and I rejoice in it; yea, and will rejoice, however trying to the flesh. I see no reason to regret my husband going home without me, nor shall I, if I suffer loss in all things. "May we all meet in Heaven, prays your unworthy, your lonely, but your ever loving daughter, NARCISSA." On his return, when Dr. Whitman arrived at the Grand Eonde Valley, he received a letter from Mr. Walker, urging him to hasten on, as Mr. and Mrs. Spalding were very sick. Accordingly he went direct to Mr. Spalding's, where he ar- "That society consisted of Rev. D. Lee, Rev. H. K. W. Perkins, Mr. H. B. Brewer and their wives. Mission Work 1 33 rived Sept. 25th. He found them both convalescent, but his presence was very needful, as both of their children were taken with the same disease. He then went home, but soon pro ceeded to the station among the Spokanes, on professional business, arriving on the 3rd of October. Having remained there a few days, he returned to his station, with Mr. Walker, reaching it about the 10th, and soon after went down the Co lumbia for his wife. He met her at The Dalles, on her way to join him, in company with Eev. Jason Lee. Writing to the Board, November 1st, he stated that the Indians had succeeded well in cultivating the soil that year, and had never treated him or the mission as well as then. Those at his station also treated the immigrants very kindly, though other Indians, the lowest and least formidable, had annoyed the immigrants. He urged the Board to send a min ister for his station, fitted to preach to the Indians, and also to come. in contact with the frontier men and to be able to meet the Eomanists. He also says: "You will do as you think best about encouraging teachers and others to come out as immigrants, and labor for a time for the mission. There can be no doubt that this upper country will soon be settled, and we very much need good men to be located, two, three or four in a place, to secure a good influence for the Indians, and form a nucleus for religious institutions, and keep back Eo- manism. The country must be occupied by Americans or for eigners ; if it is by the latter, they will be mostly papists."1 A letter written by Mrs. Whitman, May 18, 1844, to Miss L. C. Porter, of Prattsburg, shows that she, too, was very de sirous of having good people come to the country. Among other things she says : "I try to induce my friends to come to see me, and seek a home in Oregon. A wide door of useful ness is open here to the most philanthropic and benevolent heart. Multitudes are flocking to this land, and will in still greater numbers, and for every purpose. And our anxious de sire is that the salt of the earth should be found among them, also; and that this entire country may be seasoned with heavenly influences from above. The powers of darkness have 1 "Missionary Herald," 1844, p. 177. 1 34 Marcus Whitman long held undivided sway over this land, and we feel that Satan will not quietly yield his dominions to another. He is on the alert with all his hosts, and in as many ways as he has num bers employed, to gain the entire victory, to keep and drive from the field all who disturb or molest his quiet. Many souls are here for whom Christ died, and multitudes more, unconcerned, are hastening to this far-distant land to seek their fortune of worldly goods, regardless of their treasures in Heaven. But thanks be to the Hearer of Prayer, many have al ready found Christ in Oregon who have long rejected Him in a gospel land." She also mentions that, soon after her return to her home, for three months her health was in a very precarious condi tion, and that at one time she was very near the gates of death. During the first part of the next winter — -1844-45 — there were but few Indians at the station, and the school was sus pended, but by the close of February nearly all had returned, and two or three hundred attended public worship. There was no marked change, but a gradual increase of knowledge, and less attachment to papal forms. There were at this time several causes of disquiet among the Indians, which had an adverse influence on missionary work, partly on account of troubles between whites and In dians, and partly because of trouble between the Indians. The laws made by Dr. E. White. U. S. Sub-Indian Agent, in the spring of 1843, of which more full mention will be made here after, did not prove to be as successful as had been at first hoped. The Indians resorted to them chiefly to support claims against the whites, but not to settle difficulties among them selves. Their own offenders often went unpunished. A quar rel had also arisen between the Cayuses and the Snake In dians. An Indian doctor was also murdered at Dr. Whitman's station. There was trouble, too, at Oregon City between the whites and Molalla Indians, in which Mr. G. W. Le Breton was killed. This excited the Cayuses, as they and the Molallas talked the same language, it being said that they had been separated in some ancient wars. From this time there are but few letters from Dr. Whit- Mission Work 135 man in the Missionary Herald. There was an increasing de sire by the Indians for the instruction of their children both in English and Indian, an increase in religious knowledge, and an upward tendency to industry and enterprise, owing partly to better markets, occasioned by the annual immigrations, while at the same time there was more cavilling and opposition to religion. In 1844 the Doctor rebuilt his flouring mill, and the next year he built a saw-mill in the Blue Mountains, on Mill Creek [which obtains its name from this fact], about twenty miles from his station. As teachers and assistants he had with him Mr. A. Hin man, during the winter of 1844-45; Mr. William Geiger, in 1845 and 1846 ; and Mr. Andrew Eodgers, an emigrant of 1845, from that time till the massacre. Mr. Eodgers, while there, began studying for the ministry with the expectation of becom ing a missionary. Of Dr. and Mrs. Whitman and their work, Mr. Eodgers wrote in 1846 as follows: "I think Mrs. Whitman is one of the best women in the world. She has a family of eleven children (and also one of Mr. Walker's during the winter), and, strange to say, not one of them is her own [In a later letter he calls her 'my mother']. I can hardly tell you what kind of a man the Doctor is, for he is so much of an all-sorts-of-a-man, yet a very kind, generous, persevering man. I suppose, as to taking the lead in mission ary affairs, he takes the lead. Of the difficulties and trials of a missionary life, few of us in the States have any definite idea. Indeed, no one can well do so until he has been among them for some time. Those things that are regarded as trials at home (leaving home and friends) are not considered such at all when they get here. They have doubtless done much good here, but it respects temporal affairs more than spirit ual. Not that they have not labored as much for the latter as the former — much more. But the natural heart is always and in every place averse to religion, both in savage and civilized countries — Indians or white men." In May, 1847, the Doctor wrote : "We think the affairs of this station, in regard to the Indians, are in a very favorable state, such as gives promise of continued prosperity." Dr. 1 36 Marcus Whitman Whitman still prosecuted his labors with cheerfulness and assiduity. As, at this time, there was unusual sickness, he spent much time in administering to their wants, not forget ting, however, their spiritual necessities. It was his purpose, at no distant time, to build a place of worship for the Indians, and he was taking measures to build some store houses for their use. Dr. Whitman was also very anxious to provide means of grace for the whites, who were crowding into the country. In his latest communication to the Board he dwelt with great earnestness on this topic, and was urgent that the American Home Missionary Society and American Tract Society should enter the field without delay. The destinies of Oregon, he thought, depended, in a very important sense, upon the in fluences which should be thrown into it during the first years of its history, and he could not shut his eyes to the fact that Eomanism and irreligion were gaining a strong position in places which promised to be central points at a future day. October 18, 1847, less than a month and a half before his death, he wrote to the Board : "It is a matter of surprise to me that there are so few pious men, who are ready to asso ciate together and come to this country, where they could be so useful in setting up and maintaining religious society, and es tablishing the means of education. Is it indeed so, that none of the good people of the East can come to Oregon, for the double purpose of availing themselves of the government bounty of land, and of doing good to the country? Or do I lose my object in writing you so often upon the subject? Is it a matter of regret to you, and to the pastors generally, to lose a few of the best members of society, and church and business men, that they may benefit both themselves and the cause of religion, education, and their country? It is not too late yet, I hope, but I am sure if anything is done as it should be, that the people should come next year. The interior of Oregon is unrivalled probably for the growing of stock, of which sheep are the best. This interior will not be sought after, and I fear we are to have the half-breed and French population from the Willamette, as they show a disposition to sell out there and come here. It cannot be that we shall let Mission Work 137 them have the ascendancy here. If we do, you may well see what will be the consequence. My plan is for you to confer with the pastors and individuals in some way, and lay the mat ter open before them. Let there be either a selection of men for the work or volunteers. Let them be the best of pastors and church members, for it is a work that needs good men. Why will pastors neglect to select their best and worthiest men to do good by their persons, their property and their in fluence? Can a mind be found so narrow as not to be willing to part with a pastor; or a pastor not willing to part with a church member, simply because they are good men and useful where they are? I fear this is the feeling, and I remember a conversation I had with you, which clearly showed that you knew that spirit prevailed to a considerable extent. I do be lieve ministers can be found, who will send out either good men for general distribution in the colony, as the wants of the colony shall be seen by them, or who will come out with those who will locate, so as to make a religious society. One or more ought to be with the intent to found a college. I know of no place so eligible as The Dalles, close by our station. There is a salubrious climate and near proximity to market, and the main settlement will be secured. A good school there would not want for support even now ; and this might be the embryo of the intended college." Here then were some of Dr. Whitman's far-reaching plans — colonies for the benefit of the Indians and the future good of the white settlement, with good schools and a college in view. The Dalles had been transferred during that season as a mis sion station by the Methodists to the American Board, through Dr. Whitman's agency. Mr. Walker had been requested to occupy it, and had at first concluded to do so, but had after wards declined. It was hence temporarily occupied by Mr. A. Hinman and P. B. Whitman, the Doctor's nephew. Accord ing to his nephew, the Doctor himself intended to move there in the spring of 1848, not however with the idea of abandoning his station, but of manning it in some other way. The last letter which the author has seen by Mrs. Whit man, dated July 6, 1847, and written to her mother, speaks in much the same way. She was especially anxious to have her I 38 Marcus Whitman brother and sister, Edward and Jane, come and help in the work, and she also speaks of the importance of The Dalles. Of the work among the Indians, she says : "Our prospects as a mission, we feel, were never brighter than at the present moment." And in the same letter, under date of August 23, she adds: "Very many of the principal Indians are dying, and some have been killed by other Indians, in going south into the regions of California. The remaining ones seem at tached to us the closer, cultivate their farms quite extensively, and do not wish to see any Americans settle among them here. They are willing to have them spend the winter here, but in the spring they must all go on. They would be willing to have more missionaries stop, and those devoted to their good. They expect that eventually this country will be settled by them, but they wish to see the Willamette filled up first. Husband is wearing out fast. His heart and hands are so full all the time that his brethren feel solicitous about him. His benevo lence is unbounded, and he often goes to the full extent of his ability, and often beyond, in doing good to the Indians and white men. Last winter my family averaged twenty, this summer sixteen." Mrs. Whitman also speaks of the last meeting of the mis sion at which it was determined to build more mission houses at their station, so that the mission families could winter there and send their children to a school there ; and so take a large amount of work from her hands, work occasioned by her board ing some of these mission children. Mr. Walker was to move to The Dalles ; Mr. Eells to Dr. Whitman's, spending the win ters for the benefit of the whites, and his summers itinerating among the Indians ; and Mr. Spalding's family was also to be there. Fortunately, as the result proved, Mrs. Walker's health was such that she did not feel able to move to The Dalles, as contemplated, consequently Mr. Eells remained among the Spo kanes with him, and, for some reason not given, Mr. Spalding, too, stayed at his home. Father Brouillet has published a statement made by Mr. Thomas McKay that the Doctor had told him that for a couple of years before his death "he had ceased to teach the Indians because they would not listen to him." But the statement COLUMBIA RTVER AND THE DALLES Mission Work 139 above, given directly by both the Doctor and Mrs. Whitman about the very favorable condition of their mission, must set tle that point. Mrs. Whitman also speaks of her large family. She had no child of her own, but had opened her heart to take care of those of others. In 1841 she took two half-breed girls, Mary Ann, the daughter of James Bridger (out of whose back the Doctor had cut an arrow in 1835), and Helen Mar, the daughter of Joseph L. Meek, another mountain man, who afterwards set- tied near Hillsboro, in the Willamette, where he became quite prominent. The next year a half-breed boy, whose father was a Spaniard, but who had left him, was brought to Mrs. Whitman by his grandmother. He was about two years old, and was called David Malan. He had been put down by his mother in a hole and left to die, but was rescued by other relatives. Again he was found by an interpreter in the same place, surrounded by other boys, who were tormenting him by burning his naked body with sticks of fire. When Mrs. Whit man learned this, she could not shut her heart against him. Among the immigrants of 1844 was a man named Sager, who had a family consisting of his wife and seven children, between the ages of infancy and thirteen. The father died of typhoid fever on Green Eiver, and the mother sank under her burdens when she reached Snake Eiver and there died. The immigrants cared for the children until they reached Dr. Whitman's, but would take them no farther. The Doctor and his wife took the strangers in at first for the winter, but af terwards adopted them and cared for them as long as they lived. Mrs. C. S. Pringle, one of these children, afterwards gave the following account of this event. It was written in answer to a charge made by Mrs. F. F. Victor that the Doctor was mercenary, making money out of the immigrants. "In April, 1844, my parents started for Oregon. Soon after starting we were all camped for the night, and the conversation after a while turned upon the probability of death before the end of the journey should be reached. All told what they would wish their families to do in case they should fall by the way. My father 140 Marcus Whitman said, 'Well, if I should die, I would want my family to stop at the station of Dr. Whitman.' Ere long he was taken sick and died, but with his dying breath he committed his family to the care of Captain Shaw, with the request that they should be left at the station of Dr. Whitman. Twenty-six days after his death, his wife died. She, too, requested the same. When we were in the Blue Mountains, Captain Shaw went ahead to see about leaving us there. The Doctor objected, as he was afraid the Board would not recognize that as a part of his labor. After a good deal of talk he consented to have the children brought, and he would see what could be done. On the seventeenth day of October we drove up to the station, as forlorn a looking lot of children as ever was. I was a cripple, hardly able to walk, and the babe of six months was danger ously ill. Mrs. Whitman agreed to take the five girls, but the boys must go on (they were the oldest of the family). But the 'mercenary' Doctor said, 'All or none.' He made arrange ments to keep the seven until spring, and then if we did not like to stay, and he did not want to keep us, he would send us below. An article of agreement was drawn up in writing be tween him and Captain Shaw, but not one word of money or pay was in it I had it in my possession for years after I came to the (Willamette) Valley, having received it from Cap tain Shaw. Before Captain Shaw reached The Dalles he was overtaken by Dr. Whitman, who announced his intention of adopting the seven, on his own responsibility, asking nothing of the Board for their maintenance. The next summer he went to Oregon City and legally became our guardian, and the ac tion is on the records of Clackamas County. Having done this, he farther showed his mercenary nature by disposing of our father's estate in such a way that he could not realize a cent from it. He exchanged the oxen and old cows for young cows, and turned them over to the two boys to manage until they should grow to manhood ; besides this he gave them each a horse and saddle, which, of course, came out of his salary, as we were not mission children, as the three half-breeds were that were in the family. After doing all this he allowed the boys opportunities to accumulate stock by work or trade. Of ten he has said to us, 'You must all learn to work, for father Mission Work 141 is poor and can give you nothing but an education. This I intend to do to the best of my ability.' " Besides these, for the sake of the school which was kept at Dr. Whitman's, they had one or two of Mr. Spalding's and Mr. Walker's children. These, with the teacher and a few others stopping with them, sometimes made a family of about twenty. Another incident with an immigrant is here related, given almost in the words of the narrator, Joseph Smith, who came to the country in 1846. He says : "I was mighty sick cross ing the Blues, and was so weak from eating blue mass that they had to haul me in the wagon till we got to Dr. Whitman's place on the Walla Walla Eiver. Then Mother Whitman came and raised the wagon cover and says, 'What is the matter with you, my brother?' 'I am sick, and I don't want to be pestered much, either.' 'But, but, my young friend, my hus band is a doctor, and can probably cure your ailment ; I'll go and call him.' So off she clattered, and purty soon Doc. came, and they packed me in the cabin, and soon he had me on my feet again. I eat up a whole band of cattle for him, as I had to winter with him. I told him I'd like to work for him, to kinder pay part of my bill. Wall, Doc. set me to making rails, but I only made two hundred before spring, and I got to wor- ryin' 'cause I hadn't only fifty dollars, and a saddle horse, and I reckoned I owed the Doctor four or five hundred dollars for my life. Now, maybe I wasn't knocked out when I went and told the Doctor I wanted to go on to Webfoot and asked him how we stood ; and Doctor p'inted to a Cayuse pony, and says, 'Money I have not, but you can take that horse and call it even, if you will.' " A memorable event was the death of Joseph S. Findley at their house in 1846. He was an immigrant of 1840, and became an earnest Christian while at Dr. Whitman's. He had con sumption, but Mrs. Whitman spoke of it as the triumphant death of a brother in Christ, whom she saw enter joyfully the New Jerusalem above. He had united with the church in Feb ruary, and died the 28th of March. At Tshimakain very little of importance occurred in the missionary work. There were no great encouragements, nor special discouragements. At Mr. Spalding's there was a little 142 Marcus Whitman more to encourage. In 1844 nineteen were received into the mission church, all but one of whom at least were Nez Perces. A single Cayuse was thus received. The Methodist missions had been much more discouraging. The Indians had largely vanished, one or two scholars in their school had died, and this prejudiced the parents against it; other difficulties arose, so that in 1844, while the Superintend ent, Eev. J. Lee, had gone East, he was superseded by Rev. George Gary. Having examined the field, in 1845 he closed all the missions among the Indians except the one at The Dalles. In 1847 this was transferred, as already stated, to the American Board. Thus their foreign missionary work in Ore gon closed. In the meantime large immigrations came every year, be ginning with 1843, and the Willamette Valley was rapidly fill ing up. In 1843 a provisional government had been formed, to provide for the government of the people until the United States should extend its jurisdiction over the country. In 1846 the treaty had been made with England, which settled the boundary line between the two nations, though the provis ional government was not superseded by the regular territorial government until 1849, owing to the slow action of Congress. CHAPTER VI. NATIONAL WORK. As the subject of the national bearings of Dr. Whitman's work has been discussed more than any other with which he was concerned, and even more widely than any other historical subject on the Pacific Coast, the treatment of it will be divided into three parts : First, a statement concerning the early his tory of Oregon and its political conditions in 1842; second, a statement of what, in the author's opinion, the Doctor did ac complish according to the evidence; third, a consideration of six objections which have been raised to the claim that he went East with a national object in view. I. Oregon, as first known, included the country between the Pacific Ocean on the west, the Rocky Mountains on the east, the forty-second degree of north latitude, or the northern boundary of California, on the south, and fifty-four degrees, forty minutes, on the north. Its first discoverers belonged to different nations. Juan De Fuca, a Greek pilot, is said to have entered a large opening between the forty-seventh and forty- eighth degrees of latitude in 1592, and to have spent twenty days in exploring it. Some writers believe the story to be a myth, but his name is forever fixed to a part of Puget Sound. To rediscover this opening was the desire of the nations. Vis- caino, a Spaniard, sailed north to forty-three degrees in 1602 and 1603. Juan Perez, another Spaniard, in 1774 and 1775 sailed to the fifty-eighth degree, seeing land at a few places. About 1775 Heceta and Bodega, Spaniards, sailed to the forty- eighth degree, probably also discovering the mouth of the Co lumbia River, but not entering it. Captain James Cook, an Englishman, discovered Cape Flattery in 1778. La Perouse, a Frenchman, made further discoveries in 1786. Portlock and Dixon, Englishmen, were at Queen Char lotte's Island in 1787. The next year Duncan and Colnett, 144 Marcus Whitman Englishmen, made further discoveries in the same region. In 1787 Captain Berkely, an Englishman, rediscovered the Straits of Juan De Fuca, though he did not explore the passage. Lieutenant Meares, another Englishman, but sailing under the Portuguese flag, in 1788 bought some land of the Indians at Nootka Sound, where he says he raised the British flag. He also saw the Straits of Fuca. In 1792 Captain Robert Gray, an American, discovered the Columbia River, which he named after his vessel, entering its mouth. The same year Vancou ver, an Englishman, explored Puget Sound thoroughly, and after Gray's discovery of the Columbia entered it, proceeded some distance up the river, and took possession of it in the name of England. Russia, too, coming from Asia by way of Bering Straits had made some discoveries, just when is a lit tle uncertain, but by means of them she claimed the country between Bering Strait and the mouth of the Columbia. Two prominent overland journeys were also made; one by Alexander Mackenzie, a subject of Great Britain, who reached the Pacific Coast, between latitude fifty-two and fifty-three, in 1793; and the other under the direction of President Jeffer son, by Lewis and Clark, who reached the mouth of the Co lumbia in 1805. This practically completed the period of exploration, in which the Spanish, Russians, English and Americans had the main share, while the French had a small part. They, how ever, under De Soto, had discovered the Mississippi River, and, according to some writers, claimed not only all the coun try drained by its branches to the Rocky Mountains, but by contiguity still further west to the Pacific Ocean. Others deny this, and it matters but little, because in 1803 the United States bought of France Louisiana and all the rights of the French on the continent in connection with the discovery of the Mississippi. The next period was that of the fur hunters, although some of the vessels already mentioned had visited the coast far more for furs than for discovery. The first of these was the North west Company of Montreal. Simon Frazier, of that Company, built a fort on Frazier's Lake, in about fifty-four degrees, north latitude. In 1809 William Weir and nine others, Amer- National Work 1 45 icans, crossed the Eocky Mountains, trapped down the Co lumbia, and wintered on its lower waters. The Missouri Fur Company made the first American settlement west of the Eockies in 1809, establishing Fort Henry on the headwaters of Snake Eiver [It was abandoned in 1810 because of the hostility of the Indians] . In 1810 Captain Jonathan Winship sent a vessel around Cape Horn and established a post on the south side of the Columbia near its mouth, but it was flooded by the June freshet of the Columbia and abandoned. In 1811 John Jacob Astor built Astoria, intending it to be the head quarters on the Pacific Coast of the Pacific Fur Company, a very great enterprise, but on account of the war of 1812 be tween England and the United States, it passed into the hands of the Northwest Company of Montreal, which from 1813 to 1821 reigned supreme in Oregon. It is said that Astor's com pany lost a million dollars in this enterprise. Thus both Great Britain and the United States had strong claims to the country. An attempt was made in 1818 to settle the question of ownership by treaty between them, but it was impossible to do so, and it was agreed that for ten years the country should be open to the vessels, citizens, and subjects of the two powers. It being no more possible to settle the ques tion ten years later, it was agreed to continue the same arrange ment indefinitely, either party being at liberty to withdraw from it by giving twelve months' notice. This is known as the period of "Joint Occupancy." Spain, too, had some strong claims, but in 1819 the United States bought from her Florida and also all of her rights on the Pacific Coast north of Cali fornia, thus eliminating her from the contest. Eussia, al though in 1821 she had by public decree claimed all the coun try as far south as forty-five degrees and fifty minutes, yet be cause of strong protestations both by the United States and Great Britain in 1824, withdrew them so far as to claim noth ing south of fifty-four degrees and forty minutes. The contest for possession was accordingly narrowed down to Great Brit ain and the United States. When the treaty of 1818 was made, the Northwest Company had virtually complete possession. About that time trouble arose between it and the Hudson's Bay Company which re- 146 Marcus Whitman suited in bloodshed in Manitoba. The British government set tled the trouble by consolidating the two companies in 1821, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company. From that time for about twenty years it reigned supreme in Oregon, although Americans made several attempts to gain a foothold. In 1821 the brig Owyhee and schooner Convoy, owned in Bos ton, entered the mouth of the Columbia to trade with the In dians, and returned the next year. The Eocky Mountain Fur Company was composed of Will iam Sublette, David Jackson and Jedediah S. Smith. The latter crossed the Continent into California in 1827, and at tempted to come north into Oregon, but was attacked in the Eogue Eiver Valley by the Indians. He lost all his furs, and all but Smith and three others were killed. They found their way to Vancouver. Dr. McLoughlin obtained from the In dians some of the furs, which he bought of Smith, but the Eocky Mountain Company retired from the field. The North American Fur Company was formed by Astor, after the failure of his enterprise at Astoria, for trade east of the Eockies. Usually it kept on its side, but agreed with the Hudson's Bay Company to meet their traders and the In dians for trade at some rendezvous in the Eocky Mountains each summer, after which each company retired to its own side. After a time its traders crossed the mountains, but never dared lo go very far, and never built any post west of them. Major Pilcher in 1828 conducted a private enterprise with forty-five men on Snake Eiver and Flathead Lake, going to Fort Colville, and then returning East. His party were all cut off except himself and two men, and it is said that his furs were taken by the Hudson's Bay Company. Ewing Young in 1829 led the next band of American trap pers into the field of the Hudson's Bay Company. He went mainly into Northern California, where the Company had by this time gone, and into Southeastern Oregon. He afterwards gave up the business, returned to Oregon, and settled in the Willamette Valley, dying there in 1840. Captain B. L. E. Bonneville, of the United States Army, in 1832 obtained leave of absence for two years to explore Oregon and the Eocky Mountains. He came as far as Walla National Work 147 Walla, but owing to the competition of the Hudson's Bay Company his enterprise was financially a failure.1 Captain N. J. Wyeth in 1832 crossed the Continent with a view to trading in furs and canning salmon on the Lower Columbia. He sent a ship around the Horn, but it was lost on the way, and the enterprise proved a failure for that year. He returned East, and in 1834 sent another vessel around the Horn, the May Dacre, while he crossed the Continent, starting with seventy men. He built Fort Hall, and then came to the mouth of the Columbia, where he met his vessel, and built Fort William on Sauvie's Island. Fort Hall was fairly in the country of the Hudson's Bay Company, and they built Fort Boise, where they undersold him. His enterprise on Sauvie's Island also proved a failure, and he found himself obliged to sell out to the Hudson's Bay Company in 1837. He himself returned East in 1836, having lost a fortune of about thirty thousand dollars. This was practically the end of the American fur trade west of the Eocky Mountains.2 One more enterprise ought, however, to be mentioned. In 1827 Hall J. Kelley, a school teacher in Boston, who had be come much interested in Oregon, presented a petition to Con gress, asking for a grant of land for an association of emi grants. But Congress felt that the United States had not fully acquired Oregon and consequently could grant no title to any land in it. He then obtained a charter for an emi gration company from the Legislature of Massachusetts in 1830-31. He started with a small party by way of Mexico and California. His party deserted him, but still he kept on, and having met Ewing Young, to whom reference has already been made, they came together to Oregon in 1834. He was then sick, and was sent home by Dr. McLoughlin by way of the Sandwich Islands. After that he worked for Oregon in the way of lectures and with Congress, but his efforts for a colony were fruitless, although he scattered much information about the country which in after years bore good fruit. He never returned to Oregon. 1 "Bonneville's Adventures," by Washington Irving. 2 "Wyeth's Journals," by Oregon Historical Society 148 Marcus Whitman Thus, between 1808 and 1838 the Americans made twelve efforts, either individually or in companies, to trade with the Indians on the Northwest Coast, or to settle in it, and all proved failures. By 1834, when the first missionaries came to the country, there remained between latitudes 42 and 54 of all those who had been in it not more than fifteen persons whose presence was not attributable to the Hudson's Bay Company, and hardly one-half of these remained permanently in the country. They were mostly free trappers, adventurers, mountain men, sailors, and persons connected with Wyeth's first expedition. Several of them were married to native women. Even early in 1836 when Captain Wyeth left the country, there were only three more permanent residents, all of whom belonged to Wyeth's party, exclusive of the four Methodist missionaries, and not an American white woman was among them. This was a poor showing for peopling the country with Americans, when hundreds had entered it, and hundreds of thousands of dollars had been spent by Americans in trying to build up a business in it. The Hudson's Bay Company had thus made joint occupancy to mean occupancy by themselves, and they intended if possible to have it continue. They did this both as loyal British sub jects, and because, as Chief Factor McDonald, of Fort Colville, said to Dr. Cushing Eells, if England should obtain it, it would be made over to the Hudson's Bay Company as a fur producing country. Mr. McDonald expected that England would obtain it, and in the hearing of Dr. Eells asked the question: "Who fifty years hence will compose the inhabi tants of the country ?" and then himself answered the question by saying, substantially, "The descendants of the Hudson's Bay Company." Dr. Whitman said with reference to the same class (of mixed blood) : "Fifty years hence they will not be found."1 For this reason Dr. McLoughlin, ruler of the Hud son's Bay Company on this coast, placed all the American mis sionaries either south or east of the Columbia, for while he had strong hopes that Great Britain would obtain all of Ore gon, he believed that she would certainly retain all north of 1 "Missionary Herald," December, 1866, pp. 370-371. National Work 149 that river, and he did not wish any Americans north of it. When the Bishop of Juliopolis wrote to Sir George Simpson, asking that two Catholic priests might go under the protection of the Hudson's Bay Company to Oregon, he replied, Febru ary 17, 1838 : "When the Bishop first mentioned this subject, his view was to form a mission on the banks of the Willamette, a river falling into the Columbia from the south. To the establishing of a mission there the Governor and Committee in London and the Councils in Hudson's Bay had a decided objection, as the sovereignty of that country is still undecided ; but I last summer intimated to the Bishop that if he would establish the mission on the banks of the Cowlitz Eiver, or on the Cowlitz Portage, falling into the Columbia from the northward, and giving his assurance that the missionaries would not locate themselves on the south side of the Columbia Eiver, but would form their establishment where the Com pany's representatives might point out as the most eligible situation on the north side, I should recommend to the Gov ernor and Committee to afford a passage to the priests, and such facilities towards the successful accomplishment of the object in view as would not involve any great inconvenience or expense to the Company's service." The Bishop yielded to these suggestions, and Governor Simpson added that the Company would assist them. It did so.1 The Company knew the value of the country, its resources of timber, agriculture, fish, minerals and the like, though they made special effort to produce the impression that it was of little value. In their business of collecting furs they had an opportunity to travel its whole length and breadth and see its value. Previous to 1843 Mrs. McDonald, wife of the Chief Factor at Fort Colville, had a collection of mineral specimens, a part of which she presented to Mrs. Eells. In 1843 employes of that Company told Charles A. Geyer, a German botanist, who was traveling with them, that they knew that precious metals existed in a certain place from actual investigation. In fact gold had been taken from near the Columbia Eiver, sent 1 "History of the Catholic Church in Oregon," p. 24. 150 Marcus Whitman to England, made into a watch seal, brought back, and worn by a gentleman connected with the Company. Still, special effort was made to produce the impression that the country was of little value. When the Company saw that the Americans were beginning to come into the country in considerable numbers, they brought in 1841 a colony of about eighty persons from the Eed Eiver settlement of Manitoba, whom they at first settled near the waters of Puget Sound, so as to counteract American settlers. But they intended, if possible, to hold all of Oregon. In 1841-2 Sir George Simpson, Governor-General of the Company, made a tour around the world. In his book about it he discusses the question of the possession of the country quite fully. He says: "The United States will never possess more than a nominal jurisdiction, nor long possess even that, on the west side of the Eocky Mountains; and supposing the country to be divided tomorrow to the entire satisfaction of the most un scrupulous patriot in the Union, I challenge conquest to bring my prediction and its own power to the test, by imposing the Atlantic tariff on the parts of the Pacific." After discussing the question a little further to the detri ment of the claims of the United States, and showing its de fects, he concludes by saying: "On behalf of England direct arguments are superfluous, for until some other power puts a good title on paper, actual possession must be held of itself conclusive in her favor."1 This powerful Company not only had virtual possession, but determined to continue in the possession, even if it should cost them a hundred thousand pounds sterling. As early as 1827, when the renewal of the treaty of 1818 was under con sideration, England had said: "In the interior of the terri tory in question the subjects of Great Britain have had for many years numerous settlements and trading posts, several of these posts on the tributary streams of the Columbia, sev eral upon the Columbia itself, some to the northward, and others to the southward of that river. And they navigate the Columbia as the sole channel for the conveyance of their pro- 1 Simpson's "Journey Around the World," pp. 151-152. National Work 1 5 1 duce to the British stations, nearest the sea, and for the ship ment of it from thence to Great Britain. It is also by the Columbia and its tributary streams that these posts and settle ments receive their annual supplies from Great Britain. In the whole territory in question the citizens of the United States have not a single settlement or trading post. They do not^use that river either for the purpose of transmitting or re ceiving any produce of their own, to or from other parts of the world."1 At the same time, according to Greenhow, they "claimed and received the aid and consideration of government for their energy and success in expelling the Americans from the Co lumbia regions, and forming settlements there by means of which they were rapidly converting Oregon into a British Colony."2 After a treaty continuing "Joint Occupancy" had been re newed indefinitely from 1828, occasional references were made in official circles to the subject. In August, 1831, Edward Livingston, Secretary of State, instructed Martin Van Buren, our minister at London, to open discussion at the Court of St. James with the view of settling the Oregon question. Nothing of importance, however, was done. On February 7, 1838, Senator Linn, of Missouri, introduced a bill into the United States Senate to authorize the occupation of the Columbia or Oregon Territory, building a fort, occupy ing the country with the military force of the United States, and extending the revenue laws over the territory, but the bill did not pass. In March of the same year Eev. Jason Lee and P. L. Edwards prepared a memorial to Congress which was signed by J. L. Whitcomb and thirty-five others, and carried to Washington by Mr. Lee of the Methodist Mission. This spoke of the advantages of the country and asked our Govern ment to take formal and speedy possession of Oregon. This was supplemented in January, 1839, by a letter from Mr. Lee to Hon. Caleb Cushing, pressing the subject still further. 1 Greenhow's "Oregon and California," p. 454. 2 Barrows' "Oregon," p. 67. 152 Marcus Whitman Again, in 1839, Eev. D. Leslie and about seventy others sent to Congress another memorial from Oregon, asking for the formation of a territorial government for Oregon. In 1840 two memorials from Ohio and one from Kentucky were sent to Congress on the same subject. Two of these, one from Ohio, and the one from Kentucky, asked for grants of land, and the other that the laws of the United States might be extended over Oregon. In March, 1840, Mr. Linn intro duced further resolutions asking the government to settle the Oregon boundaries, establish a line of military posts from Fort Leavenworth to the Eocky Mountains, grant a thousand acres of land to every white male inhabitant of Oregon over eighteen years of age, and appoint an Indian Agent.1 In December, 1841, President Tyler in his first annual mes sage recommended the establishment of a line of military posts from Council Bluffs to the Pacific Ocean.2 But nothing was done for two reasons: Southern people were afraid on account of the slavery question, for the acqui sition of Oregon would probably add more territory to the non- slaveholding North; and some Northern persons were afraid that it would cause unfriendly relations between the United States and Great Britain. In the meantime some efforts were made in the Willamette Valley looking towards the organization of a provisional gov ernment for Oregon ; that is, a government which should last until the United States should extend her jurisdiction over the region. The first effort was in February, 1841, owing to the death of Ewing Young, with a large estate and no known heirs. For several reasons the effort failed. The next year the subject was revived, but by that time the Government had done one thing which led the people to hope that the desired action by Congress was about to be taken. This was the send ing out of Dr. Elijah White as Sub-Indian Agent. Dr. White had come to Oregon in 1837 as a physician of the Methodist Mission. He remained until 1841, when he resigned and re turned East, and was then appointed by the Government in the 1 Brown's "Political History of Oregon," vol. 1, pp. 54-61. 2 "Messages and Papers of the Presidents," vol. 4, p. 87. National Work 153 above mentioned capacity.1 Commodore Wilkes, then in the Columbia Eiver with his vessels, also advised that nothing be done. The next year, 1843, after Dr. Whitman had gone East, and before his return, this provisional government was organized. It continued in operation until 1849, when the United States assumed complete control. Such was the condition of the country in 1842 before Dr. Whitman went East. He had not been long on the Coast be fore he gained quite correct ideas of the situation. It became clear to him that the Hudson's Bay Company were using their utmost endeavors to obtain the country for England, so that it might be made over to them for their own use. He had learned, too, of its value and resources, having then traveled over a considerable part of it, both east and west of the Cas cade Mountains, and he had met many persons, Americans as well as British subjects, who had been over parts where he had not been. He wrote Eev. Mr. Walker several times about it. One expression was as follows : "This country will soon be settled by the whites; it belongs to the Americans; it is .-a great and rich country; what a country this would be for the Yankees; why not tell them about it?"2 Says Hon. A. L. Lovejoy, who went East with him: "My party camped some two miles below Dr. Whitman's place. The •day after our arrival, Dr. Whitman called at our camp, and asked me to accompany him to his house, as he wished me to draw up a memorial to Congress to prohibit the sale of ardent spirits in this country. The Doctor was alive to the interests of this coast, and manifested a very warm desire to have it properly presented at Washington." ' Eev. H. K. W. Perkins, a missionary of the Methodists at 'The Dalles in the early forties, wrote in 1849: "He (Dr. Whitman) looked upon them (the Indians) as doomed at no •distant day to give place to a settlement of enterprising Amer icans. With an eye to this, he laid his plans and acted. His 1 Brown's "Political History of Oregon," vol. 1, pp. 82-88, and lEells' "Indian Missions," pp. 187-189. 2 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 11. * "Life of Rev. G. H. Atkinson, D. D.," p. 272. 154 Marcus Whitman American feelings, even while engaged in his missionary toils, were suffered to predominate. He wanted to see the country settled. . . . With his eye bent on this he was willing, meantime, to do what he could for the poor, weak, feeble, doomed Oregonians" (Indians).1 He felt strongly on the subject. At the time his missionary associates thought that he was disturbed to an unwarranted degree, but afterwards they acknowledged that he was right.2 For many years the eastern boundary question, especially between Maine and British America, had been a source of con stant trouble. It had never been settled since the United States had become a nation. In December, 1841, the British Government determined to send Lord Ashburton to the United States, with full power to settle this question and all other subjects in controversy between the two governments. This included the Oregon question. Lord Ashburton arrived at Washington April 4, 1842, and on the eleventh Governor Fair field of Maine was notified of his arrival and its object. The Maine boundary was settled by the treaty made by Lord Ash burton and Daniel Webster, then Secretary of the United States, signed on August 9, 1842. The Oregon question came up for consideration, but nothing was done about it. In re gard to it, President Tyler, in a special message to the Senate, August 11, 1842 (written by Mr. Webster), said: "After sun dry informal communications with the British Minister on the subject of the claims of the two countries to territory west of the Eocky Mountains, so little probability was found to exist of coming to any agreement on that subject at present that it was not thought expedient to make it one of the subjects of formal negotiation, to be entered upon between the govern ment and the British minister, as part of his duties under his special mission." * 1 "Oregonian," November 21, 1895. '"Missionary Herald," 1866, pp. 371, 372, and Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 11. 8 "Webster's Works," vol. 6, pp. 270, 272, 273, 351, and "Messages and Papers of the Presidents," p. 166. National Work 155 The pressing of this subject at this time, it was feared, would have endangered the other questions, believed to be more important. The treaty was confirmed the same month. II. What Dr. Whitman did. On May 16, 1842, the emigration of that year left Inde pendence, Missouri, for Oregon. This had been for many years the place of rendezvous for the emigrants before making their regular start across the Continent. The start was made forty- two days after Lord Ashburton's arrival at Washington. In this emigration were a hundred and twelve persons, among whom were A. L. Lovejoy, Medorem Crawford and Dr. E. White, the newly appointed Indian Agent for Oregon. The two latter kept journals of this trip which have been published. Mr. Crawford arrived at Dr. Whitman's September 14, but Dr. White several days earlier, having left the main party August 23rd [They left their wagons at Fort Hall]. They brought letters for Dr. Whitman and news about Oregon and Lord Ashburton. Some of the letters had reference to the discon tinuance of the southern stations of the mission, which has already been treated of in the last chapter. These emigrants gave Dr. Whitman information about the danger of the United States losing Oregon. This aroused him still more. He called a meeting of the mission to discuss various subjects, the most important one being that a purpose of his to go East imme diately to do what he could to save Oregon to the United States be approved. The meeting was held September 26-28, and although Messrs. Walker and Eells thoroughly disap proved of it, yet when they found how earnest he was, and that he was determined to go, even if he had to resign his connection with the mission to do so, they voted in favor of it, as did all the rest. The time set for his departure was October fifth, and letters were to be prepared and forwarded to him to carry East accordingly. For some reason he started two days earlier, and when the letters of Messrs. Walker and Eells reached his station, he was already two days on the way. Mr. Lovejoy, under date of February 14, 1876, furnished 156 Marcus Whitman the following graphic description of the sufferings endured during this journey ? "We left Waiilatpu October 3, 1842, traveled rapidly, reached Fort Hall in eleven days, remained two days to re cruit and make a few purchases. The Doctor engaged a guide, and we left for Fort Winte. We changed from a direct route to one more southern, through the Spanish country, via Salt Lake, Taos and Santa Fe. On our way from Fort Hall to Fort Winte we had terribly severe weather. The snows re tarded our progress and blinded the trail, so we lost much time. After arriving at Fort Winte, and making some pur chases for our trip, we took a new guide and started for Fort Uncumpagra, situated on the waters of Grand Eiver, in the Spanish country. Here our stay was very short. We took a new guide and started for Taos. After being out some four or five days we encountered a terrific snow storm, which forced us to seek shelter in a deep ravine, where we remained snowed in for four days, at which time the storm had somewhat abated, and we attempted to make our way out upon the high lands, but the snow was so deep and the winds so piercing and cold, we were compelled to return to camp and wait a few days for a change of weather. Our next effort to reach the highlands was more successful; but, after spending several days wandering around in the snow, without making much headway, our guide told us that the deep snow had so changed the face of the country that he was completely lost and could take us no further. This was a terrible blow to the Doctor, but he was determined not to give it up without another effort. We at once agreed that the Doctor should take the guide and return to Fort Uncumpagra and get a new guide, and I remain in camp with the animals until he could return, which he did in seven days with our new guide, and we were now on our route again. Nothing of much import occurred but 1 This letter was written to Rev. G. H. Atkinson, D.D., and was first published in an address of his delivered before "The Pioneer and Historical Society of Oregon," Feb. 22, 1876. It appears in the "Biography of Dr. Atkinson," p. 272. A very similar one to W. H. Gray is found in Gray's "History of Oregon," p.' 324, dated Novem- ber 6, 1869. LOST IN THE SNOW National Work 157 hard and slow traveling through deep snow until we reached Grand Eiver, which was frozen on either side about one-third across. Although so intensely cold, the current was so very rapid that about one-third of the river in the center was not frozen. Our guide thought it would be dangerous to attempt to cross the river in its present condition, but the Doctor, noth ing daunted, was the first to take the water. He mounted his horse; the guide and myself shoved the Doctor and his horse off the ice into the foaming stream. Away he went, com pletely under water, horse and all, but directly came up, and after buffeting the rapid foaming current, he reached the ice on the opposite shore a long way down the stream. He leaped from his horse upon the ice and soon had his noble animal by his side. The guide and myself forced in the pack animals, and followed the Doctor's example, and were soon on the op posite shore, drying our frozen clothes by a comfortable fire. We reached Taos in about thirty days, having suffered greatly from cold and scarcity of provisions. We were compelled to use mule meat, dogs and such other animals as came in our reach. We remained at Taos a few days only, and started for Bent's and Savery's Fort, on the head waters of the Arkansas Eiver. When we had been out some fifteen or twenty days we met George Bent, a brother of Governor Bent, on his way to Taos. He told us that a party of mountain men would leave Bent's Fort in a few days for St. Louis, but said we would not reach the fort with our pack animals in time to join the party. The Doctor, being very anxious to join the party so he could push on as rapidly as possible to Washington, concluded to leave myself and guide with the animals, and he himself, tak ing the best animal, with some bedding and a small allowance of provision, started alone, hoping by rapid travel to reach the fort in time to join the St. Louis party, but to do so he would have to travel on the Sabbath, something we had not done before. Myself and guide traveled on slowly and reached the fort in four days, but imagine our astonishment when on mak ing inquiry about the Doctor we were told that he had not ar rived nor had he been heard of. I learned that the party for St. Louis was camped at the Big Cottonwood, forty miles from the fort, and at my request Mr. Savery sent an express, tell- 158 Marcus Whitman ing the party not to proceed any further until we learned something of Dr. Whitman's whereabouts, as he wished to ac company them to St. Louis. Being furnished by the gentle man of the fort with a suitable guide, I started in search of the Doctor, and traveled up the river about one hundred miles. I learned from the Indians that a man had been there who was lost and was trying to find Bent's Fort. They said they had directed him to go down the river and how to find the fort. I knew from their description it was the Doctor. I returned to the fort as rapidly as possible, but the Doctor had not arrived. We had all become very anxious about him. "Late in the afternoon he came in very much fatigued and desponding; said that he knew that God had bewildered him to punish him for traveling on the Sabbath. During the whole trip he was very regular in his morning and evening devotions, and that was the only time I ever knew him to travel on the Sabbath. "The Doctor remained all night at the fort, starting early on the following morning to join the St. Louis party. Here we parted. The Doctor proceeded to Washington. I re mained at Bent's Fort until spring, and joined the Doctor the following July near Fort Laramie, on his way to Oregon, in company with a train of emigrants." When they reached Fort Hall Captain Grant, desirous to prevent the Doctor from going, told him a falsehood, that a war had broken out between the Pawnees and Cheyennes, and that it was not safe for him to proceed. But this did not stop the Doctor, though he took a route far to the south through New Mexico; but it was evidently his salvation, for because of the great depth of snow which fell that winter and the extra severe cold, the party would probably have perished had they taken the usual route. The width of the Grand Eiver where they crossed it was about six hundred feet, making two hundred feet of ice on each side. General Lovejoy afterwards told Colonel J. K. Kelley, who was at one time United States Senator from Ore gon, that when "they were penned in that dreadful ravine, they one evening saw a camp fire on the bluffs above, and Whitman made his way up the steep bank to learn if they were savages National Work 1 59 or white men. He had reached where a fallen tree protected him from their view, and soon saw that they were whites, though they used the Spanish language. They were surprised when he appeared, and seized their guns, but when they real ized his being a white man, greeted him cordially, and sent some down to assist his friends up there with their animals. They were a company from Taos, New Mexico, who had hunted buffalo. They had abundance of jerked meat, fed them bounti fully, treated them kindly, and took them to Taos. It was a friendly procedure."1 On account of the loss of valuable time provisions became short. A dog that had followed them was eaten; a mule came next, presumably not fat, after its journey, but it lasted them to Santa Fe. When they came to one of the tributaries of the Arkansas Eiver it was frozen over, but with ice hardly thick enough to bear a man, and the firewood was all across the river. Wood they must have ; so the Doctor took the ax and wormed himself across the stream. Having obtained plenty of wood he skated it back and returned it safety; but unfor tunately split the ax-helve. It was tied up with a piece of fresh deer skin, but as it lay at the edge of the tent that night a hungry wolf, wishing for the piece of deer skin, stole it and also the ax. Had this occurred a thousand miles back, there is no telling what might have been the result, for an ax was one of the most necessary articles of camping.2 When Dr. Whitman arrived at St. Louis he made his home at the house of Dr. Edward Hale, a dentist. In the same house was William Barrows, then a young school teacher, af terward a clergyman and author of Barrows' Oregon. Beaching Cincinnati, he went to the house of Dr. Weed.8 Here, according to Prof. Weed,* he obtained a new suit of clothes, but whether he wore them all the time until he left 1 "Pioneer Days of Oregon History," by S. A. Clarke. 2 "How Marcus Whitman Saved Oregon," by O. W. Nixon, pp. 117, 118. 3 The father of Professor George L. Weed, who has written two articles about him, one in the "Philadelphia Public Ledger" of May 25, 1895, and the other in the "Ladies' Home Journal" of November, 1897. 4 Barrows' "Oregon," Chapter 18. 1 60 Marcus Whitman the East or not is a question. Some writers speak of him as appearing in his buckskins, or something akin to them, after wards both at Washington and Boston. Some, as Dr. S. J. Parker, say he was not so dijessed. It is just barely possible that both may be true — that he kept his buckskins and buffalo coat and occasionally wore them. It is quite certain that he did not throw them away, as according to accounts he wore his buckskins in returning to Oregon the next summer.1 The next visit on record was at Ithaca, New York, at the home of his old missionary friend and fellow traveler, Eev. Samuel Parker. Here after the surprise of his arrival was over, he said to Mr. Parker : "I have come on a very important errand. We must both go at once to Washington, or Oregon is lost, ceded to the English." Mr. Parker, however, did not think the danger to be so great, and not for lack of interest in the subject, but because of other reasons, did not go. Dr. Whitman went alone, and reached Washington.2 The Doctor, or his brother, had been a classmate of the Secretary of War, James M. Porter. Through him the Doctor obtained an introduction to Daniel Webster, then Secretary of State, with whom he talked about Oregon and the saving of it to the United States, but Mr. Webster received him very coolly, and told him it was too late, as far as he was concerned, for he had considered it, decided it, and turned it over to the President, who could sign Oregon away or refuse to do so. Accordingly Dr. Whitman went to President Tyler, and for some time they talked about Oregon. Even the Cabinet were called together, it is said, and an evening was spent on the sub ject. The objection was made that wagons could never be taken to Oregon and that consequently the country could never be peopled overland by emigrants, while the distance around Cape Horn was altogether too great to think of taking settlers to the country in that way. In reply to this, Dr. Whitman told of the great value of the country and of his plans to lead an emigration through with their wagons the next summer. He stated that he had taken a wagon into Oregon six years "Barrows' "Oregon," pp. 174-177. 2 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 15. National Work 161 before to Fort Boise, that others had taken one from Fort Hall to Walla Walla, and that with his present knowledge, having been over the route twice, he was sure he could take the emi grant wagons through to the Columbia. The President then said that he would wait, before carrying the negotiations any further, until he could hear whether Dr. Whitman should suc ceed, and if he should there would be no more thought of trad ing off Oregon. This satisfied the Doctor. He then went to New York to see Mr. Horace Greeley, who was known to be a friend of Oregon. He went there dressed in his rough clothes, much the same that he wore across the Continent. When he knocked at the door a lady came, Mrs. Greeley or a daughter, who, on seeing such a rough-looking person, said to his inquiries for Mr. Greeley, "Not at home." Dr. Whitman started away. She went and told Mr. Greeley about him, and Mr. Greeley, who was of much the same style and cared but little for appearances, looked out of the window, and seeing him going away, said to call him in. It was done, and they had a long talk about this Northwest Coast and its political relations.1 From New York Dr. Whitman went to Boston, where the officers of the American Board at first received him coldly, be cause he had left his station for the East without permission from them, on business so foreign to that which he had been sent to Oregon to accomplish. Afterwards, however, they treated him more cordially. From Boston he went to New York State and visited rela tives. Then taking with him his nephew, Perrin B. Whitman, he bade them good-bye and left for Missouri. While there he did all he could to induce people to join the emigration for Ore gon, then went with the emigration, assisting the guide, Cap tain Gantt, until they reached Fort Hall, and aiding the emi grants very materially. Fort Hall was as far as Captain Gantt had agreed to guide them, and from that place Dr. Whit man guided them or furnished an Indian guide, so that the emigrants reached the Columbia Eiver safely with their wagons. 'Testimony of Hon. A. Hinman, Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 14. 162 Marcus Whitman "Over the hills rode Whitman, Scaled the snow-capped mountain wall, Over the pathless plains in winter, Boldest rider of them all. Down deep ravines, in canyons hoary, Over roaring, rapid streams, Through savage lands, with murder gory, The eye of the statesman gleams ; For he sees far off in the future For his own fair country won, The wonderful vales and hills and dales, Of bounteous Oregon. Over the hills rode Whitman, Bearing an empire's fate, From sea to sea on his good gray steed, A courier that could not wait — Far away to the west was a fairer land Than Moses beheld of old, A land of fruits and evergreen hills, Where the gray Columbia rolled. Over the hills rode Whitman, And into the halls of State, Where Webster sat with kingly men Engaged in high debate. There in the nation's Congress Our missionary won The rich veined hills and laughing rills Of bounteous Oregon."1 'Mrs. E. E. Dye, in October, 1891. CHAPTEE VII. NATIONAL WORK. OBJECTIONS. Six objections have been made to the statements in the last chapter in regard to what Dr. Whitman did. It has been said that he did not go East with any national object in view, or even to Washington; that he did not do anything to save Oregon or any part. of it to the United States; that at that time it was impossible for him or any one to have done so, as there was no danger of Oregon being lost;" that the whole story was an immense afterthought, gotten up for some special purpose ; that he did nothing worthy of mention to induce the immigration of 1843 to start ; and that he likewise did nothing worth speaking of to enable it to reach the Columbia Eiver. These objections will now be considered, the first four in this chapter and the remaining two in the next. It is true that much of the evidence given is from memory and written many years after the events occurred, but the reason is that the objections were never made public until thirty-five or forty years after Dr. Whitman went East. It has been said that such evidence is not good when unaccom panied with contemporary written documents, but to the au thor this objection is of little weight. Members of the West ern historical and pioneer societies know well that one great object of these societies is to rescue from oblivion important items of history, while the actors and witnesses are living, even though they may be three score and ten or four score years old, and though the events may have occurred forty to sixty years previous. There are very many persons in the West who have seen and helped to make important events of history, 164 Marcus Whitman but who never had the advantage of a good education and to whom writing is so great a task that they seldom write any thing for publication. These historical societies are glad to write down and publish the statements of such persons, even if they are made two or three score years after the events oc curred. 1. The first objection to be considered is that Dr. Whit man, when he went East, went solely on missionary business, to save his station and that of Mr. Spalding from being given up, and to procure more laborers, but that he had no national object in view, and that he did not even go to Washington. (a) Dr. Cushing Eells arrived in Oregon in 1838, was one of Dr. Whitman's co-laborers, was present at the meeting of the Oregon mission which authorized the Doctor to go, and was its clerk. He says in a statement, sworn before L. E. Kellogg, a Notary Public in Spokane County, August 23, 1883: "Sep tember, 1842, a letter written by Dr. Whitman, addressed to Eev. Messrs. E. Walker and C. Eells at Tshimakain, reached its destination, and was received by the persons to whom it was written. By the contents of said letter, a meeting of the Oregon Mission of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions was invited to be held at Waiilatpu. The object of said meeting, as stated in the letter named, was to approve of a purpose formed by Dr. Whitman that he go East on behalf of Oregon, as related to the United States. In the judgment of Mr. Walker and myself that object was foreign to our assigned work. With troubled thoughts we anticipated the proposed meeting. On the following day, Wednesday, we started, and on Saturday, P. M., camped on the Touchet, at the ford near the Mullan bridge. We were pleased with the prospect of enjoying a period of rest, reflection and prayer — needful preparation for the antagonism of opposing ideas. We never moved camp on the Lord's Day. On Monday, A. M., we arrived at Waiilatpu, and met the two resident families of Messrs. Whitman and Gray. Eev. H. H. Spalding was there. All the male members of the mission were thus together. In National Work — Objections 165 the discussion the opinion of Mr. Walker and myself remained unchanged. The purpose of Dr. Whitman was fixed. In his estimation the saving of Oregon to the United States was of paramount importance, and he would make the attempt to do so, even if he had to withdraw from the mission in order to ac complish his purpose. In reply to considerations intended to hold Dr. Whitman to his assigned work, he said: 'I am not expatriated by becoming a missionary.' The idea of his with drawal could not be entertained, therefore to retain him in the mission a vote to approve of his making the perilous endeavor prevailed. He had a cherished object, for the accomplishment of which he desired consultation with Eev. David Greene, secre tary of correspondence with the mission at Boston, Mass., but I have no recollection that it was named in the meeting. A part of two days was spent in consultation. Eecord of the date and acts of the meeting was made. The book containing the same was in the keeping of the Whitman family. At the time of their massacre, Nov. 29, 1847, it disappeared. The fifth day of October following was designated as the day on which Dr. Whitman would expect to start from Waiilatpu. Accordingly letters, of which he was to be the bearer, were re quired to be furnished him at his station in accordance there with. Mr. Walker and myself returned to Tshimakain, pre pared letters, and forwarded them seasonably to Waiilatpu. By the return of the courier information was received that Dr. Whitman started on the 3rd of October. It is possible that transpirings at old Fort Walla Walla hastened his departure two days. "Soon after his return to this coast, Dr. Whitman said to me he wished he could return East immediately, as he believed he could accomplish more than he had done, as I understood him to mean, to save this country to the United States. I asked him why he could not go. He said, 'I cannot go without seeing Mrs. Whitman.' She was then in the Willamette Valley." I 66 Marcus Whitman This meeting was held September 26-28, according to Dr. Eells' memory and Mr. Walker's journal of that time.1 (b) Mrs. Mary E. Walker came to Oregon at the same time as Dr. Eells and was the wife of Eev. E. Walker. As it had not been publicly denied at this time that Dr. Whitman went East for national purposes, it was not possible to obtain the evidence of Mr. Walker, because he died in 1877. Mrs. Walker says: "Forest Grove, Oregon, June , '83. Rev. M. Eells : Sir — In answer to your inquiries about Dr. Whitman, I will say that he went East in 1842, mainly to save the country from falling into the hands of England, as he believed there was great danger of it. He had written Mr. Walker several times before about it. One expression I well remember he "The following is from Mr. Walker's journal of September 28, 1842: "Then (some time after breakfast) the question was submitted to us of the Doctor's going home, which we felt that it was of too much importance to be decided in a moment, but finally came to the conclusion that if he could put things at that station in such a state, we would consent to his going, and with that left them and made a start for home." At first it seems as if this contradicted Dr. Eells' statement in regard to their having heard of this desire before leaving their station, but it is not necessarily so. If either of the two wit nesses were to arise today and say that the letters were received as Dr. Eells states; that they went to Dr. Whitman's dreading all the time to discuss the matter; that on arrival on Monday they had at first heard nothing about his proposed trip East and hoped that the project had been abandoned, and themselves had said nothing on the subject, but that on Wednesday he spoke of it, we would believe them. The writer has been through exactly similar experiences. No one who knew Dr. Eells will believe that he either forgot or mis stated purposely the above, as he was noted for his integrity and his tenacious memory. Before Mr. Walker's journal had been searched, the writer heard Dr. Eells trying to fix the date of the meeting. Hav ing October 3rd as the date of Dr. Whitman's leaving, for a starting point, he then counted backward the camping places of the trip and what he did each day, until he had fixed September 26-28 as the date of the meeting, exactly as recorded in Mr. Walker's journal, although between thirty-five and forty years had intervened. Dr. Eells did forget many things, but what he remembered he remembered very correctly almost universally. National Work — Objections 167 wrote, about as follows: 'This country will soon be settled by the whites. It belongs to the Americans. It is a great and rich country. What a country this would be for Yankees ? Why not tell them of it.' He was determined to go East on this business, even if he had to leave the mission to do so."1 [Rev. H. H. Spalding came to Oregon in 1836 with Dr. Whitman. He died in 1874, before the controversy in regard to Dr. Whitman arose, hence his statement with direct refer ence to this subject was not obtained. In a general way, however, he left a statement, but it is evidently so full of mis takes that it will be considered separately in Chapter IX.] (c) Hon. W. H. Gray came to Oregon in 1836 with Dr. Whitman, and was connected with the mission from that time until 1842. He says that the Doctor said to him, as he bade him good-bye and mounted his horse to see what could be done at Washington, "If the Board dismisses me, I will do what I can to save my country." He also said, "My life is of but little worth if I can save this country for the American people." 2 (d) William Geiger, M. D., lived at Forest Grove, Oregon, a man of unquestioned integrity. In a statement sworn to be fore S. Hughes, a Notary Public of that place, he says : "Forest Grove, Oregon, June 5, 1883. Rev. M. Eells : Sir — In answer to your inquiries about Dr. M. Whitman I will say that I came to this country in 1839, and was at Dr. Whitman's request in charge of his station in 1842-3 while he went East, and remained there after his return about three weeks, and had many conversations with him on the object of his going, after his return. I was there again in 1845 and 1846. His main object in going East was to save the country to the United States, as he believed there was great danger of its falling into the hands of England. Incidentally he intended to obtain more missionary help, and for this object I sent provis ions to Fort Hall for them in 1843. The immigration of 1842, especially Mr. A. L. Lovejoy, brought word that there was dan- 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 11. 2 Gray's "History of Oregon," p. 609. 1 68 Marcus Whitman ger that the English would obtain Oregon, hence Dr. Whit man went East." 1 (e) Hon. Alanson Hinman now lives at Forest Grove, Oregon. He has been a member of the Oregon Legislature; since 1854, one of the trustees of Pacific University, at Forest Grove, and for twenty years President of the Board. His tes timony is as follows: "Forest Grove, Oregon, June 8, 1883. Rev. M. Eells : Sir — In answer to your inquiries about Dr. Whitman, I will say that I came to this coast in 1844, and remained that winter at Walla Walla (then Waiilatpu) teaching school for Dr. M. Whitman. About the next June (1845), I came to the Willamette with Dr. Whitman. In 1847, at the time of his massacre, I was temporarily in charge of the station at The Dalles, with Mr. P. B. Whitman. Dr. Whitman told me that he went East in 1842 with two objects, one to assist the mission, the other to save the country to the United States. I do not think he would have gone that winter had it not been that the danger seemed to him very great that the country would be obtained by England, but would have deferred the journey until spring." (f ) A. L. Lovejoy was Dr. Whitman's traveling companion during his journey East in 1842-3. Afterwards he was several times a member of the Oregon Legislature, President of its Council (Senate), Attorney-General of the Territory, its Chief Justice, Mayor of Oregon City, and a member of the convention that formed the constitution of Oregon. Few of the pioneers have done more for the State or have been more honored by it than Mr. Lovejoy. He says that "The whole burden of Dr. Whitman's speech during the long ride was to immediately terminate the treaties of 1818 and 1828, and extend the laws ot the United States over Oregon." 2 Says the editor of the Willamette Farmer: "Mrs. Lovejoy assures us that he (Mr. Lovejoy) was aware of Whitman's aims 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 3. "Paper by Miss M. S. Barlow, in "Oregon Pioneer Transactions," 1895, p. 74. A. L. LOVEJOY National Work — Objections 169 and motives; knew that his great object in the journey was to save Oregon from British rule, and gives him credit in great part for accomplishing his patriotic intention."1 Again, after giving an account of his trip across the Conti nent: "Here we parted (at Bent's Fort). The Doctor pro ceeded to Washington. I remained at Bent's Fort until spring and joined the Doctor the following July near Fort Laramie on his way to Oregon, in company with a train of emigrants. He often expressed himself to me about the remainder of his journey, and the manner in which he was received at Washing ton." 2 (g) Perrin B. Whitman came to Oregon in 1843 with his uncle. He says, October 11, 1880 : "Dr. Whitman's trip East, in the winter of 1842-43, was for the double purpose of bring ing an immigration across the plains, and also to prevent, if possible, the trading off of this Northwest Coast to the British Government. . . . While crossing the plains I re peatedly heard the Doctor express himself as being very anx ious to succeed in opening a wagon road across the Continent to the Columbia River, and thereby stay, if not entirely pre vent, the trading of this Northwest Coast, then pending be tween the United States and the British Government. In after years the Doctor, with much pride and satisfaction, re verted to his success in bringing the immigration across the plains, and thought it one of the means of saving Oregon to his government. I remained with him continuously till Au gust, 1847, when he sent me to The Dalles." a Again, "I heard him say repeatedly on the journey, and after we reached his mission, Waiilatpu, that he went to the States in the winter of 1842 and 1843 for the sole purpose of bringing an immigration with wagons across the plains to Ore gon." (h) Rev. William Barrows, D.D., afterwards author of Barrows' Oregon, but then a school teacher in St. Louis, met Dr. Whitman there. He says : "It was my good fortune that 'Seattle "Post-Intelligencer," Nov. 17, 1882. 2 "Biography of G. H. Atkinson," p. 274. '"Weekly Astorian," Dec. 17, 1880, and Eells' "Whitman Pamph let," p. 13. 1 70 Marcus Whitman he should be quartered at St. Louis as a guest under the same roof, and at the same table with myself. The announcement of his arrival in the little city of twenty thousand, as it was then, came as a surprise and novelty. In those times it was a rare possibility for one to come up in mid-winter from Bent's Fort or Santa Fe, much more from Fort Hall and the Colum bia. The Rocky Mountain men, trappers and traders, the ad venturers in New Mexico, and the contractors for our military posts, the Indian men laying up vast fortunes, half from the government and half from the poor Indian, gathered about Dr. Whitman for fresh news from their places of interest. Those who had friends on the plains or in the mountains or in Span ish territory, sought opportunity to ply him with questions, for none had come over since the river closed, or crossed the frontier inward since the winter set in. What about furs and peltries? How many buffalo robes would come down by June on the spring rise of the Missouri? Were the Indian goods at the posts in flush, or fair or scant supply? What tribes were on the war path? What were the chances of breaking Indian treaties, and for removals from old reserva tions? Who seemed to have the inside favor with the Indian Agents? What American fur traders had the Hudson's Bay Company driven to the wall? What could he say of the last emigrant company for Oregon in which one Amos Lawrence Lovejoy went out? What had become of so and so, who were in previous companies that broke up at Fort Hall ? "But the Doctor was in great haste, and could not delay to talk of beaver and Indian goods, and wars, and reservations, and treaties. He had questions and not answers. Was the Ashburton treaty concluded? Did it cover the Northwest? Where and what and whose did it leave Oregon? He was soon answered. Webster and Ashburton had signed that treaty on the 9th of August preceding. On the 26th the Sen ate had ratified it, and on the tenth of November President Tyler had proclaimed it the law of the land. Then instantly he had other questions for his St. Louis visitors. Was the Oregon question under discussion in Congress? What opin ions, projects or bills concerning it were being urged in Senate and House? Would anything important be settled before the National Work — Objections 1 71 approaching adjournment on the fourth of March? Could he reach Washington before the adjournment? He must leave at once, and he went. "Marcus Wfiitman once seen, and in our family circle, tell ing of his one business — he had but one — was a man not to be forgotten by the writer. With all the warmth, and almost burden, of skin and fur clothing, he bore the marks of the ir resistible cold and merciless storms of his journey. His fin gers, ears, nose, and feet had been frost-bitten, and were giving him much trouble. Dr. Whitman was in St. Louis, midway be tween Washington and Oregon, and carried business of weighty import, that must not be delayed by private interests and cour tesies. In the wilds and storms of the mountains he had fed on mules and dogs, yet now sumptuous and complimentary dinners had no attraction for him. He was happy to meet men of the army and of commerce and fur, but he must hasten on to see Daniel Webster. Exchanging saddle for stage — for the river was closed by ice — he pressed on, and arrived at Washington March 3rd."1 (i) Rev. Henry M. Field, D. D., afterwards for about forty years editor of the New York Evangelist, was in 1842-3 pastor of a Presbyterian church in St. Louis. He says: "I there met and welcomed Dr. Whitman, still bearing on his person the marks of his fatigue and sufferings, and was one of those who cheered him on his way to Washington, where he made reports to government, based upon a personal knowl edge of the country, of which hardly another man at the cap ital knew anything."2 (j) Samuel J. Parker, M. D., was the son of the Rev. Samuel Parker, who came to Oregon in 1835, and with whom Dr. Whitman then traveled to the Eocky Mountains. Dr. S. J. Parker was in 1843 twenty-four years old. In a letter from Ithaca, N. Y., dated February 16, 1883, to the author, he wrote : "I was at home in the room in which I now write (I own the old homestead), when Dr. Whitman unexpectedly arrived in a rather rough, but not as outlandish a dress as some writers 1 Barrows' "Oregon," pp. 174-177. 2 "Oregonian," Nov. 21, 1895. 1 72 Marcus Whitman say he had on. After the surprise of his arrival was over, he said to my father, 'We must both go at once to Washington, or Oregon is lost, ceded to the English.' " 1 (k) Dr. Edward Hale, M. D., then seventy years old, wrote to Eev. H. H. Spalding, in a letter from North Cornwall, Conn., dated July 19, 1871 : "I had the pleasure of entertaining Dr. WThitman at St. Louis on his last visit Eastward to confer with the President and heads of departments in relation to the set tlement of the northeastern boundary question with Great Britain, by bartering away for a song the whole of the North west Pacific Territory. Also on his return to Oregon my house was his home while in St. Louis." ' (1) Says Judge James Otis, of Chicago, in a letter to Eev. Thomas Laurie, D. D., of Providence, E. I., in 1885 : "In the month of April, 1843, Dr. M. Whitman and myself were at the same hotel in Buffalo, N. Y., waiting for the ice to leave the harbor so that we could take the steamboat for Cleveland, Ohio. After some four days we took the stage for Dunkirk, and thence went by boat to Cleveland. He was a good talker and a man of great observation. He gave me an account of his experience among the western Indians ; his trip to Wash ington." s (m) Says Governor Alexander Eamsey, of Minnesota, in a letter to the author, dated August 15, 1883 : "Dear Sir: I was first elected to Congress from Pennsyl vania in October, 1842. For technical reasons the election went for naught, and I was re-elected in 1843, and again in 1845, serving throughout the 28th and 29th Congresses, from December, 1843, to March, 1847. In the winter of 1842-43 I visited Washington and called upon Mr. Joshua Giddings, who was at that time boarding at Mrs. , on Capitol Hill, in what was then called Duff Green's Eow. The building is still standing. When so visiting, Mr. Giddings introduced me to Dr. Whitman, who talked to me and others of the diffi- 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 15. 2 This letter is now in the possession of the author's heirs. 2 "Missionary Herald," 1885, pp. 353, 354. National Work — Objections 1 73 culties of his journey, of the character of the country, Indian affairs, British encroachments, etc." 1 (n) Dr. Silas Eeed saw Whitman in Washington.2 (o) John Tyler, a son of the President, and his private sec retary, said that "he remembered Whitman very well, that he was in Washington 1842-3, full of his project to carry emi grants to Oregon, that he waited on the President, and re ceived from him the heartiest concurrence in his plans." " (p) Hines' History of Oregon, although not published un til 1851, was evidently written about 1845, the year he closed his connection with the Methodist mission and returned East, for it gives no material history of the country after that year. In his journal of April 1, 1843,4 he gives an account of the Indian troubles, which Dr. E. White, the Sub-Indian Agent, was called to Walla Walla to settle, Mr. Hines accompanying him. He says: "The arrival of a large party of emigrants at this time (1842), and the sudden departure of Dr. Whitman to the United States, with the avowed intention of bringing back with him as many as he could enlist for Oregon, served to hasten them to the above conclusion," that is, that there was "A deep laid scheme of the whites to destroy them, and take possession of their country." " (q) Questions may here be asked. According to the tes timony at the meeting of the mission which authorized the Doctor to go East, it was expected that he would start on the fifth of October. Messrs. Walker and Eells were to pre pare a letter which the Doctor was to carry. When this letter reached the Doctor's station he had been about two days on the way. So the letter was carried back." It is addressed to the American Board, and is a strong plea for not abandoning the 1 "Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 16. 2 "Life and Times of the Tylers," vol. 2, p. 439. 8 Letter of President L. G. Tyler, a son of President John Tyler, and himself president of College of William and Mary, Virginia, to Dr. W. A. Mowry, dated June 6, 1898. 1 Hines' "Oregon," p. 143. 5 Hines' "Oregon." 8 A copy of it was afterwards sent to the Board. The original is now in the possession of the author's son. I 74 Marcus Whitman stations of Messrs. Whitman and Spalding, covering fourteen pages of letter paper. If now the Doctor went purely for missionary purposes, to save his station, why did he not wait for this letter, which would have been a great help to him ? (r) Although the order had been given to discontinue the station of Messrs. Whitman and Spalding, yet in view of changed conditions at the time when this order was received (namely, the withdrawal of Messrs. Smith, Gray and Eogers from the mission, the reconciliation of all parties remaining in the mission, the importance of Dr. Whitman's station to Americans who should come to the country, and to the success of Mr. Spalding's work among the Nez Perces), it had been voted by the mission to continue those stations until new rep resentations could be made to the Board and new instructions received. Was it then necessary for Dr. Whitman to risk his life to secure what he had already secured, when most certainly his station would have been continued, if he had waited until spring to go? (s) At first he was not cordially received at Boston. Says Dr. Geiger: "Mr. Hill, treasurer of the Board, said to him, in not a very pleasant way, 'What are you here for, leav ing your post?' Says P. B. Whitman, 'The Board censured him in very strong terms for leaving his post of duty ; also in formed him that they had no money to spend in opening the western country to settlement.' " Says Dr. Whitman, in a let ter to the Board, dated April 1, 1847: "I often reflect on the fact that you told me that you were sorry I came" (East) . Af ter this he speaks of the great value of his services to the emi gration and of the influence the emigration virtually had in securing Oregon to the United States. Now, why was the Board so sorry he went, if he went solely or mainly to help his mission? (t) Why did the Doctor go to Washington at all, or to Washington first, if his intention was wholly or mainly to save his station? To have done so would have been the height of absurdity — would have made him one of the most foolish of human beings — to have hastened to Washington to prevent the American Board at Boston from discontinuing his mission sta tion. When Eev. Jason Lee went East in 1838 mainly on mis- National Work — Objections 1 75 sionary business, yet carrying a petition from the people of Ore gon to our government, asking for the extension of the laws of the United States over Oregon, he hastened first to report to his home Board in New York, and afterwards went to Wash ington. Not so Dr. Whitman, which shows which business he thought the most important. (u) Lastly, the testimony of Dr. Whitman in regard to where he went and why he went should be introduced. After his return to his station, in accordance with a request made by the Secretary of War, he prepared and sent to him a bill v,hich it was hoped would be passed by Congress for establish ing a line of military posts from the western boundary of Missouri to the Willamette Valley for promoting safe inter course with the Territory of Oregon, and for various purposes. Accompanying it was a letter from the Doctor, which was not dated, but which was endorsed as having been received at Washington, June 22, '44. It begins with these words : "To the Honorable James M. Porter, Secretary of War. In, compliance with the request you did me the honor to make last winter, while at Washington, I herewith transmit you the synopsis of a bill."1 Again, April, 1847, he wrote his home Board as follows : "It was to open a practical route and safe passage, and secure a favorable report of the journey from the emigrants, which in connection with other objects, caused me to leave my family, and brave the toils and dangers of the journey, notwithstanding the unusual severity of the winter and the great depth of snow."2 Thus, according to the testimony of Hon. A. Hinman, Hon. A. L. Lovejoy, Dr. Edward Hale, Judge James Otis, Dr. H. M. Field, Dr. S. Eeed, John Tyler, Governor A. Eamsey, and 1 Brown's "Political History of Oregon," vol. 1, p. 148. 2 "Missionary Herald," 1885, p. 350. Prof. Bourne tries to get rid of this evidence by saying, "As the years passed, Dr. Whitman at tached so much importance to his services to the emigration, that he evidently came to regard such services as the purpose of his journey tc the East." This plainly means that the Doctor got so twisted by the results, that he claimed for the object what was not the object, and that the Professor has learned what it was fifty-seven years af terwards, better than the Doctor did five years after. I 76 Marcus Whitman Whitman himself, he went to Washington ; and, from evidence given by Dr. Cushing Eells, W. H. Gray, Hon. A. L. Lovejoy, Mrs. M. E. Walker, Dr. William Barrows, Dr. S. J. Parker, Hon. A. Hinman, Dr. W. Geiger, P. B. Whitman, John Tyler, Dr. E. Hale, Hines' History of Oregon, and Whitman him self, he went not alone for missionary purposes, but mainly to do what he could to save Oregon to the United States. One reason why some of those who were acquainted with the Doctor, especially some of the immigrants of 1843, have said that they did not believe he went for any other than mission ary purposes, was because in their travels with him they never heard him say anything about it. But this proves nothing, for all know that a person may go to a place with several objects in view, some of which he will tell to certain friends, while he will not tell others, for reasons perfectly satisfactory to himself. This subject will be discussed more fully later.1 2. The second objection to be considered is the assertion that he did not do anything to save the North Pacific Coast or any part of it to the United States. In reply, the following evidence is given : (a) Says Dr. William Geiger : "Either himself or brother had been a classmate of the Secretary of War, and Dr. Whit man went to him, and through him obtained an introduction to Secretary Webster. But Webster said that it was too late, that he had signed the papers and given them to the President. He would not introduce him to the President. Dr. Whitman went back to the Secretary of War, and through him obtained an introduction to the President, who heard his statements of the' value of Oregon, and the possibility of taking an emigra tion there. At last the President promised to wait before pro ceeding further in the business, until Dr. Whitman should see whether he could get the emigration through. 'That is all I want,' said Dr. Whitman. He immediately sent back word to Missouri to those who wished to go, and had it published in the papers and in a pamphlet. "He then went to Boston. When he first met Mr. Hill, Treasurer of the Board, Mr. Hill received him quite roughly. 1 See objection "four" in this chapter. National Work — Objections 1 77 Mr. Hill said, 'What are you here for — leaving your post?' And at last said, in a not very pleasant way, as he offered him some money, 'Go and get some decent clothes.' Dr. Whitman turned on his heel and left. The next day Mr. Hill was more cordial. If Dr. Whitman told me this once, he told it to me perhaps twenty times. He told it to me first on his return at Mr. Spalding's station, as I was there temporarily on account of sickness in Mr. Spalding's family. About the same time he told Mr. Spalding the same. He afterwards told it to us both, and in riding together afterwards on the road he said the same, and these repeated statements, which were always precisely alike, impressed it on my mind, or I might perhaps have forgotten them. As far as I know, he told this only to Mr. Spalding and myself, and said he had his reasons for not telling everybody."1 Again : "Dr. Whitman praised the country as of immense value to the United States, and said that he had heard that there was a possibility of its being transferred to Great Brit ain. But Webster replied, 'You are too late, Doctor, Oregon is already bargained away.' Whitman still pleaded strongly for Oregon, but with no effect. Webster knew that the fisher men of his state had millions of annual interest in the New foundland fisheries, and he cared far more to favor them than to save Oregon. So he spoke of the distance, of the worthless- ness of the country, and of the impossibility of making roads to Oregon. Finally he said that the question had been consid ered and turned over to President Tyler, who could sign Ore gon away or refuse to do so, but so far as he had an interest in it, it was already decided, and had passed entirely from his hands. "Through the Secretary of War Dr. Whitman then was introduced to the President, and for three or four hours they talked about the country. Finally the President said that if they could get a wagon road across from the western fron tier, that fact would settle the question, but if it could neither be practically settled by land or by sea, as claimed, it would be better to let the country go, than to try to retain, settle and 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," pp. 3, 4. 1 78 Marcus Whitman defend it. Dr. Whitman responded, 'Hold on and I will take an emigration and their wagons through next summer.' They talked it all over, and the Doctor explained his plans at length. The President said he had signed no papers, and would hold now to see the issue of Dr. Whitman's undertaking. 'If you succeed,' he said, 'we will keep Oregon.' And this was the stimulus which made the Doctor so persevering on that point, all the next summer. Dr. Whitman replied emphatically, bringing his hand down vigorously on his thigh, 'I'll take them through.' And as Dr. Whitman and Dr. Geiger rode along from Lapwai to Walla Walla, he exultingly added, striking another significant blow with his hand, 'And I have brought them through.' " 1 (b) Says Eev. H. H. Spalding: "The Doctor pushed on to Washington, and immediately sought an interview with Sec retary Webster — both being from the same state — and stated to him the object of his crossing the mountains, and laid be fore him the great importance of Oregon to the United States. But Mr. Webster lay too near Cape God to see things in the same light with his fellow statesman, who had transferred his worldly, interests to the Pacific Coast. He awarded sincerity to the missionary, but could not admit for a moment that the short residence of six years could give the Doctor the knowl edge of the country possessed by Governor Simpson, who had almost grown up in the country, and had traveled every part of it, and represents it as one unbroken waste of sand deserts and impassable mountains, fit only for the beaver, the gray bear, and the savage. Besides he had about traded it off with Governor Simpson to go into the Ashburton treaty ( !) for a cod fishery in Newfoundland. "The Doctor next sought through Senator Linn an inter view with President Tyler, who at once appreciated his solici tude and his timely representations of Oregon, and especially his disinterested though hazardous undertaking to cross the Eocky Mountains in winter to take back a caravan of wagons. He said that although the Doctor's representations of the char- 1 "Oregonian," June 1, 1895, and "Whitman College Quarterly," March, 1898. National Work — Objections 1 79 acter of the country, and the possibility of reaching it by wagon route, were in direct contradiction to those of Governor Simp son, his frozen limbs were sufficient proof of his sincerity, and his missionary character was a sufficient guaranty for his honesty, and he would therefore as President rest upon these and act accordingly; would detail Fremont with a military force to escort the Doctor's caravan through the mountains; and no more action should be had toward trading off Oregon till he could hear the result of the expedition. If the Doctor could establish a wagon route through the mountains to the Columbia Eiver, pronounced impassable by Governor Simpson and Ashburton, he would use his influence to hold on to Ore gon. The great desire of the Doctor's American soul, Chris tian withal, that is, the pledge of the President that the swap ping of Oregon with England for a cod fishery should stop for the present, was attained, although at the risk of life, and through great sufferings, and unsolicited and without the promise or expectation of a dollar's reward from any source. And now, God giving him life and strength, he would do the rest, that is, connect the Missouri and Columbia Eivers with a wagon track so deep and plain that neither national envy nor sectional fanaticism would ever blot it out." 1 (c) Says Hon. W. H. Gray, in a letter to the writer: "I met him in Oregon City in my own home, after his return from Washington. Spent an afternoon and evening with him, and learned of him the result of his visit to Washington, and the treatment he received from Webster and from the Pru dential Board or Committee of Missions.1 What I learned from Dr. Whitman personally was : "Mr. Webster was favor able to making a change of the eastern boundary, and giving the western or Oregon country for what had recently been in dispute, as Mr. Webster thought it would be a good exchange ; and was not induced to listen to his (Dr. Whitman's) reasons against such a change. But the President listened more fa vorably, and said no such change or giving up of Oregon should be made, if he could get wagons and an emigration into 1 "Executive Document, No. 37," 41st Congress, third session Sen ate 1871, p. 22. •Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 9. 180 Marcus Whitman Oregon. . . . Mr. Webster was strongly in favor of the Newfoundland codfishery. He was held in check by Benton, Adams and others. Benton had a better knowledge of Ore gon than Webster, who had been or become unpopular for his yielding on the Eastern or Maine question with Ashburton. The petition that had been sent by the missionaries, and the statements made by different parties, added to the personal representations made by Dr. Whitman, as to the practicability of a wagon route, and the fact that the Doctor's mission in 1836 had taken cows and wagons to Fort Boise, and that they could be taken to the Columbia Eiver — that fact, as affirmed by Dr. Whitman, stopped all speculations about giving up Ore gon, till the practical road question was settled." l (d) Says P. B. Whitman, in a letter to the author dated February 10th, 1882 : "Secretary Webster received him coolly. He said he almost 'snubbed him,' but the President, Mr. Tyler, treated him and the possibility of a wagon road across the plains to the Columbia Eiver, with a just consideration. He, the President, gave the Doctor a hearing, and promised him that the Ashburton treaty, then pending [a mistake], would not be signed until he would hear of the success or failure of the Doctor in opening a wagon road to the Columbia Eiver."2 Again he adds: "Dr. Marcus Whitman arrived at my uncle's house about noon on the fifteenth of April, 1843, At the dinner table the Doctor asked me if I would accompany him to Oregon. I promised to go provided Captain Green [his great uncle] and my father would consent. My mother died four years before, when I was nine years old. Dr. Whitman started immediately after dinner, taking me with him to visit my father in Yates County. We arrived at Middlesex, the home of the Doctor's mother, where we found my father that day. We remained there four or five days visiting his people, some of whom he had not seen for seventeen years. He was, of course, pressed to extend his visit, but he always replied that he would sacrifice not only the pleasure of a visit with his mother, but all else in the world rather than fail to meet an en- 1 Pamphlet by W. H. Gray, "Did Dr. Whitman Save Oregon," p. 17, and Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," pp. 8-9. 2 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 13. National Work — Objections 181 gagement to be on the west side of the Missouri Eiver at the appointed time to conduct a party of American citizens across the plains. He said, 'They have my pledge to guide a wagon train to the Columbia Eiver before the summer is over.' "During the visit with his mother and my father I heard him say repeatedly that he had been to Washington City, and had an interview with President Tyler about the colonization of Oregon with American citizens. He said also that the President had promised anxiously to wait for news of the suc cess or failure of the attempt to cross the mountains to the shores of the Columbia with wagons. The success or failure of the effort would in a measure determine the question of title to the Oregon country. I know Dr. Whitman carried home to the Pacific this promise from President Tyler, and that the ambition to save Oregon to the United States spurred him on to great self-sacrifice and labor that required almost more than mortal strength. ... On April 20, 1843, Dr. Whitman bade his mother farewell, and we departed for Oregon, making the first halt at Westport, Missouri. The rendezvous of the emigrants was at Independence, a few miles from Westport. The Doctor remained for a time at the home of Dr. Waldo, a brother of the Oregon pioneer, Hon. Daniel Waldo, of Marion County. He gave Dr. Waldo an account of his trip across the great plains, and emphasized the fact that it was made to save the Pacific Northwest to the United States government. His whole soul was in the success of the wagon journey to the banks of the Columbia, and he assured Dr. Waldo that the President had promised him to withhold the transfer of the territory to the British until he learned whether he succeeded or not. He talked of this object of his visit with the enthus iasm of a sanguine nature, and he had but one object — to save Oregon. "While waiting for the large train of immigrants to or ganize for the journey, Dr. Whitman visited for a week with Eev. Mr. Berryman, Superintendent of the Methodist Indian Mission. During that visit I heard him repeat the substance of that interview with the officials in Washington City, and recite his hopes and fears about the dangers and blessings upon 1 82 Marcus Whitman the failure or success of his effort to colonize Oregon with true Americans."1 (e) Says Hon. A. L. Lovejoy: "He often expressed him self to me about the remainder of his journey, and the manner in which he was received at Washington, and by the Board of Foreign Missions at Boston. He had several interviews with President Tyler, Secretary Webster, and a good many members of Congress, Congress being in session at that time. He urged the immediate termination of the treaty with Great Britain relative to this country, and begged them to extend the laws of the United States over Oregon, and asked for liberal induce ments to emigrants to come to this coast. He was very cor dially and kindly received by the President and members of Congress, and without doubt the Doctor's interviews resulted greatly to the benefit of Oregon and to this Coast." 2 (f) Says Judge J. Otis, in a letter to Dr. Thomas Laurie: "They (the President and Cabinet) were called together, and Dr. Whitman spent an evening with the Cabinet, answering their questions, and giving them his views as to the importance of Oregon, and the steps that needed to be taken in order to secure it for this country." This Dr. Whitman told him at Buffalo, N. Y.3 (g) Dr. Whitman, November 5, 1846, wrote to Eev. L. P. Judson : "I had adopted Oregon as my country, as well as the Indians for my field of labor, so that I must superintend the emigration of that year, which was to lay the foundation for the speedy settlement of the country if prosperously con ducted and safely carried through; but if it failed and be came disastrous, the reflex influence would be to discourage for a long time any further attempt to settle the country across the mountains, which would be to see it abandoned al together. ... I have returned to my field of labor, and on my return brought a large immigration of about a thousand individuals safely through the long and the last part of it an untried route to the western shores of the Continent. . . . 1 "Oregonian," December 4, 1895. 2 "Biography of Dr. G. H. Atkinson," p. 275. ""Missionary Herald," 1885, p. 354. National Work — Objections 183 "Time is not so short yet but it is quite important that such a country as Oregon should not on one hand fall into the ex clusive hands of the Jesuits, nor on the other under the English government"1 April 1, 1847, soon after Dr. Whitman heard of the treaty between the United States and Great Britain, he wrote to his home Board: "I often reflect on the fact that you told me you were sorry I came East. It did not then nor has it since altered my opinion in the matter. American interests, ac quired in the country, which the success of the immigration in 1843 alone did and could have secured, have become the foundation of the late treaty between England and the United States in regard to Oregon, for it may be easily seen what would have become of American interests had the immigra tion of 1843 been as disastrous as have been the two attempts in 1845 and 1846 to alter the route then followed [both of these years his route having been abandoned for another]. The disaster was great again last year to those who left the track which I made for them in 1843, as it has been on every attempt to improve it, not that it cannot be improved, but it demon strates what I did in making my way to the States in the winter of 1842-3, after the third of October. . . . Any one can see that American interests as now acquired have had more to do in securing the treaty, than our original rights. From 1835 till now it has been apparent that there was a choice of only two tilings: (1) the increase of British interests to the exclusion of all other rights in the country, or, (2) the establishment of American interests by citizens (on the ground) ."1 There is no doubt that Dr. Whitman, after his experience at Washington and with the immigration of 1843, knew what he was saying fully as much as those who have denied him any political or national intent (and who had then hardly learned to read). These statements of his fit as exactly into those Messrs. Geiger, Spalding, P. B. Whitman and Gray, as a 1 "Transactions Oregon Pioneer Association," 1893, p. 200. 1 For another letter of similar import dated October 18, 1847, see close of Chapter VIII, p. 231. 184 Marcus Whitman tenon does into a mortise. It is plain from this and other writings of the Doctor that he felt that the Catholics and Hud son's Bay Company were in reality working together; that if the Catholics won, it would not only break up his mission, but the English would obtain the country; and if the English won, the result would be the same. Hence, in order to save the whole mission the country must be saved to the United States. It is alleged that the statement about Governor Simpson being in Washington about that time has no good foundation. The statement was first made by Mr. Spalding, but afterwards contradicted by some who denied the claims made for Dr. Whitman. The only reason given for this contradiction was that Governor Simpson could cot have been in Washington be cause of his journey around the world, and because Mr. Spald ing's statement was unsupported by other evidence. As Governor Simpson reached London, after his journey around the world, in October, 1842, he could very easily have been in Washington by February, or March, or before. Dr. W. F. Tolmie came from England to Oregon in 1834, and for a long time was in charge of Fort Nisqually, under the Hudson's Bay Company. When that Company closed its business on the American side of the line, he moved to Victoria, where he lived many years and where he died, always loyal to England. December 15, 1884, he wrote to the author as follows : "Mrs. Victor is decidedly mistaken in stating on the alleged authority of George Barber Eoberts, recently deceased at Cathlamet, Washington Territory, that George Simpson, afterwards Sir George, was not at Washington, D. C. Recol lect having heard that he had been there diplomatizing for the Company. Cannot recall to mind in what year. ... It was not the custom of the leaders of the H. B. Company to let their business in its intricacies be known to persons in the po sition held by the late Mr. Roberts" [a subordinate clerk at Vancouver] . As there is not a particle of evidence from his book or any other source that Governor Simpson was not at Washington either before his journey around the world or after the spring of 1843, the possibility is that he was there as Messrs. Gray National Work — Objections 185 .and Spalding say. Moreover, Mr. Buchanan in March, 1844, ^quoted from Simpson, who extolled the country, and said that the possession of it by Great Britain may become an object of very great importance, and that they were strengthening their •claims to it (independent of their claims of prior discovery and occupation for the purpose of the Indian trade), by forming the nucleus of a colony through the establishment of farms, and the settlement of some of their retiring officers and ser vants as agriculturists.1 W. H. Gray says that Dr. Whitman while at Fort Walla Walla learned about the Hudson's Bay •Company having arranged for English settlers to come and to ..settle in Oregon, and at the same time that Governor Simpson was to go to Washington and secure the settlement of the question as to boundaries on the ground of the most numerous .and permanent settlement in the country.2 As Governor Simpson had said that they were "resolved, even at the cost of one hundred thousand pounds sterling to • expel the Americans from traffic on that coast,"5 it would cer tainly be in accordance with this statement that he would use all of his influence to carry it out, even to his going to Wash ington; also, that while there he would not go to work with •some one who had no influence, but would work with Mr. Webster, who had considered the question while negotiating the Ashburton treaty, who had very low views of the value of Oregon, and who hoped to negotiate the treaty which would settle the Oregon question. 3. The third objection which has been waged is that it was impossible at that time for Dr. Whitman or any one else to have done anything to save Oregon, as there was nothing to save, for all was safe; that there is no evidence that any treaty was then in progress; and that no State papers have been found which speak of Webster trading off Oregon for the Newfoundland codflsheries. Here the question very seriously 1 "Congressional Record," vol. 13, p. 349. 2 Gray's "History of Oregon," p. 289. 3 Barrows' "Oregon," p. 85. 186 Marcus Whitman arises, shall we accuse these witnesses of falsehood, and reject all their evidence, especially that of Messrs. Gray, P. B. Whit man, Geiger, and Marcus Whitman, as well as that of Mr. Spalding. In the author's opinion it is not necessary to do so, for so much light has already been found that no one need to be accused of falsehood, and it can be shown how these state ments may be reconciled with known events at Washington. It is, however, not necessary to find any papers which would prove that a formal treaty was then in progress. Hon. George H. Williams, of Oregon, late Attorney-General of the United States, who was one of the commissioners to negotiate the treaty of Washington which settled the Alabama claims, says that no record of a treaty is made until it is negotiated and approved by the President; and that cabinet officers and foreign ministers negotiate treaties for the President to ap prove.1 Here is where some have made, unknowingly perhaps, a great mistake, because they believed that papers referring to a treaty must be found, or else no treaty could have at the time been under consideration. A treaty is simply an acquiescing on both sides in rights already secured. The treaty with Eng land by which she acknowledged the independence of the United States was not the main event which made us an inde pendent nation. Back of that was the Eevolutionary War which compelled England to sign the treaty. That "de facto" made us independent. So the treaty with Mexico was not the main event which gave Texas to the United States, but the Mexican War, which compelled Mexico to sign the treaty. Numerous instances of this kind might be cited, of wars, or discoveries, or prior settlements, or other things which were previous to the treaty and the cause of it, the treaty being merely the formal gathering up of rights already secured. So in this case, even if a treaty had not been actually in progress, the preliminaries to one might have been, and might be upset by Dr. Whitman's work, and so might he "de facto" save the country. The friends of Dr. Whitman claim this to be a fact, 1 "Oregonian," June 1, 1895. National Work — Objections 187 taking his interviews at Washington into consideration, in con nection with his work with the immigration.1 It is proper here to consider what were the views of promi nent men in Congress, of Government, and of Daniel Webster, Secretary of State, concerning Oregon, and then to learn what negotiations or correspondence there were. (a) The views of Prominent Men in Congress : That some of these men were friendly to Oregon, such as Senators Benton, Linn and others, is clear, but that a majority were friendly is not so evident. In the United States Senate, in 1844, a reso lution was offered to give the necessary twelve months' notice to Great Britain for the termination of the treaty which granted joint occupancy to both nations. All the senators claimed our rights to be good as far north as 49 degrees, and yet for various reasons a majority opposed the motion — some for fear it would involve us in war, some for fear that it would have a bad effect on the negotiations which it was said would soon be made, and for which preliminary arrangements were in progress, some because of the worthlessness of the country, and some because they wanted no more territory. In regard to these latter points, Mr. Dayton, of New Jersey, said (Febru ary 23 and 26, 1844), as he quoted a description of the country from the Christian Advocate of February 7th: "With the exception of the land along the Willamette and strips along a few of the water courses, the whole country is among the most irreclaimable barren wastes of which we have read, except the Desert of Sahara. Nor is this the worst of it. The climate is so unfriendly to human life that the native population has dwindled away under the ravages of its malaria to a degree which defies all history to furnish a parallel in so wide a range of country." 1 The author once asked Dr. C. Eells if he knew whether any treaty was in progress at Washington, which was prevented by Dr. Whit man's visit, as no records of one could be found. His reply was sub stantially that he did not, but that something was going on which the Doctor thwarted, and thus saved the country. Gray's discovery of the Columbia River, the settlement at Astoria, and the purchase of Florida and the Spanish rights on the Pacific Coast had much to do in securing Oregon to the United States, though done long before. 188 Marcus Whitman He also read from the Louisville Journal, as republished in the National Intelligencer, of Washington : " 'Of all the coun tries on the face of this earth, it (Oregon) is one of the least favored by Heaven. It is the mere riddlings of creation. It is almost as barren as the Desert of Africa, and quite as un healthy as the Campania of Italy. Now, that such a terri tory should excite the hopes and cupidity of citizens of the United States, inducing them to leave comfortable homes for its heaps of sand, is, indeed, passing strange. " 'Eussia has her Siberia, and England has her Botany Bay, and if the United States should ever need a country to which to banish its rogues and scoundrels, the utility of such a re gion as Oregon would be demonstrated. Until then we are perfectly willing to leave this magnificent country to the In dians, trappers and buffalo, that roam over its sand banks and by the sides of its rushing and unnavigable rivers.' "I confess these descriptions are somewhat below my esti mate. I had thought it a poor country as a whole, but not quite so poor as these authentic accounts would make it. Yet, these accounts are substantially correct as applied to the coun try as a whole, though I have no doubt there are some green spots, some strips along the streams, which may be good and even perhaps rich, for agricultural purposes, and it is to these spots that the glowing descriptions have been applied. . . . Judging from all sources of authentic information to which I have had access, I should think the territory, taken together, a very poor region for agricultural purposes, and in that re spect unworthy of consideration or contest at the hands of this government. "How will the speedy settlement of Oregon affect us? In my judgment is must be injuriously. . . . The admission of Oregon as a state of this Union seems to me as undesirable on the one hand as it is improbable on the other — undesirable because, by the aid of the representative principle, we have already spread ourselves to a vast and almost unwieldly ex tent. I have no faith in the unlimited extension of this gov ernment by the aid of that principle. . . . We have al ready conflicting interests, more than enough, and God forbid that the time should ever come when a state on the banks of National Work — Objections 189 the Pacific, with its interests and tendencies of trade all look ing toward the Asiatic nations of the East, shall add its jarring claims to our already distracted and overburdened confed eracy. "But it is not only in my judgment undesirable, but im probable. Distance and the character of intervening country are natural obstacles forbidding the idea. By water, the dis tance around Cape Horn is said to be about 18,000 miles. By land, the distance by the only line of travel is about five thou sand miles from this spot to Vancouver in the Valley of the Willamette. We are much nearer to the remote nations of Europe than to Oregon. And when considered with reference to the facilities of communication, Europe is in comparison our next door neighbor. And this state of things must continue unless some new agent of communication shall cast up. The power of steam has been suggested. Talk of steam communi cation — a railroad to the mouth of the Columbia. Why, look at the cost and bankrupt condition of railroads proceeding al most from your capital, traversing your great thoroughfares. A railroad across twenty-five hundred miles of prairie, of des ert and of mountains. The smoke of an engine across those terrible fissures of that rocky ledge, where the smoke of a vol cano only has rolled before ! Who is to make this vast inter nal or rather external improvement? The State of Oregon or the United States. Whence is to come the power? Who supply the means? The mines of Mexico and Peru disem boweled would scarcely pay a penny in the pound of the cost. Nothing short of the lamp of Aladdin will suffice for such an expenditure. The extravagance of the suggestion seems to me to outrun everything which we know of modern visionary scheming. The South Sea bubble, the Dutchman's speculation in tulip roots, our own in the town lots and multicaulis, are all common-place plodding in comparison. But all the suggestion seems to me properly part and parcel of this great inflated whole." This connection being out of the question, Mr. Dayton pro ceeded to discuss the question if Oregon might not be a colony, similar to the British colonies, and of this idea he made as much sport as he did of the railroad. 190 Marcus Whitman Other senators said that if we obtained Oregon we could not hold it, as it would set up itself as an independent nation after a time. Mr. Archer, after describing the difficulties in getting to the Willamette, and the worthlessness of the intervening re gion, said: "These led to the third and last tract of valley oa the seaboard of the Pacific, suited for an Asiatic (not an American) dependency, if it were to be regarded of value as a dependency at all. This was destitute of harborage and could never command any by art. The country, taken in its whole extent, could at no day certainly have a very large production, nor any considerable trade."1 Said Hon. Charles Sumner, of Massachusetts, in 1845: "By a presumptuous assertion of a disputed claim to a worth less territory beyond the Eocky Mountains, we have kindled anew on the hearth of our mother country the smothered fires of hostile strife. . . . What just man would sacrifice a single human life to bring under our rule both Texas and Ore gon. . . . Some stolen Texas, some distant, worthless Oregon." 2 George A. Prentice, in March, 1844, inveighed against en tering into a war for the attainment of a lot of worse than useless territory, referring to Oregon. Senator Winthrop, of Massachusetts, in 1844, quoted and commended these sentences from Senator Benton's speech of 1825 (although in 1844 Benton had entirely changed his views) : "The ridge of the Eocky Mountains may be named as a convenient, natural, and everlasting barrier. Along this ridge the western limits of this republic should be drawn, and the statue of the fabled god, Terminus, should be erected on its highest peak, never to be thrown down." Again, in 1845, he added: "Are our western brethren straitened for elbow room, or likely to be for a thousand years ? Have they not too much land for their own advantage al ready? .... I doubt whether the West has a particle of real interest in the possession of Oregon. . . . The West 1 "Congressional Globe," vol. 13, p. 275, etc. 'Seattle "Post-Intelligencer," April 23, 1891. National Work — Objections 191 has no interest, the country has no interest in extending our territorial possessions." 1 Senator McDuffie, of South Carolina, in January, 1843 (a little while before Dr. Whitman reached Washington), after ridiculing steam power to connect the Pacific and Atlantic coasts, said: "I would not for that purpose (of agriculture) give a pinch of snuff for the whole territory. If there were an embankment of five feet to be removed, I would not consent to expend five dollars to remove it, and enable our population to go there. I thank God for His mercy in placing the Eocky Mountains there." 2 (b) On the actions of the government Benton said : "The great event of carrying the Anglo-Saxon race to the shore of the Pacific Ocean, and planting that race firmly on that sea, took place at this time, beginning in 1842, and largely increas ing in 1843. It was not an act of the government, leading the people and protecting them; but like all the other great emi grations and settlements of that race on our Continent, it was the act of the people going forward, without government aid or countenance, establishing their possession, and compelling the government to follow with its shield and spread it over them. So far as the action of the government was concerned, it operated to endanger our title to the Columbia, to prevent emigration, and to incur the loss of the country. . . . The title to the country being thus endangered by the acts of the government, the evidence of it devolved on the people, and they saved it." In doing so, he refers to the emigration of 1843, and adds: "To check these bold adventurers was the object of the government; to enact them was the object of some western members of Congress, on whom (in conjunction 1 Barrows' "Oregon," p. 200. 2 "How Marcus Whitman Saved Oregon,'7 pp. 41, 42. It is a little refreshing to know that some of these statements were answered by quotations from the missionaries, Messrs. Parker, Spalding, and oth ers, and that Mr. Wentworth, of Illinois, said, January 24, 1844, "Re ligious enterprise and missionary zeal have done the most that has been done thus far for the settlement of Oregon." "Congressional Record," vol. 13, p. 92. 192 Marcus Whitman with the people) the task of saving the Columbia evidently de volved." 1 Albert Gallatin, in 1846, said: "It is a remarkable fact that although the convention has now been in force twenty- seven years, Congress has actually done nothing with respect to either of those objects (the promoting of emigration, or the protection of our citizens). Enterprising individuals have, without any aid or encouragement by government, opened a wagon road eighteen hundred miles in length, through an arid or mountainous region, and made settlements on or near the shores of the Pacific, without any guaranty for the possession of the land improved by their labors." 2 In 1843 a bill passed the Senate making some legal provis ions for Oregon, but it was lost in the House under an adverse report made by John Quincy Adams.8 The further indifference of government may be seen from the fact that it was more than two years after the treaty of 1846 was made before Congress organized the Territory of Oregon; notwithstanding the great desire of the people of Oregon to have it done. Because of the appeal of Dr. Whit man to the provisional government of Oregon, as he felt that there was great danger from the Indians unless the govern ment should extend its protection over the people, Governor Abernethy sent J. Q. Thornton, in 1847, to Washington to urge speedy action in the matter. He went by water. Because of the Whitman massacre soon after Judge Thornton left, the Legislature of Oregon sent J. L. Meek, in the winter of 1847-8, to Washington to still further show the need. The two worked together, and on the last day of the session, August 13, 1848, the Territory of Oregon was organized by Congress. Even further Congress showed its indifference for the Ore gon settlers by not passing any law by means of which these thousands of settlers in Oregon could have any title to their land for two years longer, until September, 1850. (c) Webster's Position. It is important to know Web- 1 "Benton's Thirty Years," vol. 2, chapter 112. 2 "Oregon Question," by Albert Gallatin, p. 36. 2 Barrows' "Oregon," p. 198. National Work — Objections 193 ster's position, because he was, in March, 1843, Secretary of State, with power largely to shape the foreign policy of the United States ; because he had already negotiated the Ashbur ton treaty, in which the Oregon question had been considered ; and because he was remaining in the cabinet with the hope of being "the one to negotiate the treaty which should settle the Oregon question. The plan of the administration was this: Either a special mission to England, on which it was expected Mr. Webster would be sent, so that he might be better able to negotiate the treaty ; or a mission to China, to which Mr. Ever ett, our minister to England, would be transferred, thus al lowing Mr. Webster to go to England in Mr. Everett's place, where he could still negotiate the treaty. But the special mis sion to England failed in Committee, the mission to China passed Congress, but Mr. Everett declined to go to China, and so Mr. Webster failed to go to England. Thus his hopes of reaching England for that purpose died, and this having been his main reason for remaining in the Cabinet, he soon resigned, and all danger of England ever gaining all or any part of Ore gon then passed forever.1 But in March, 1843, Mr. Webster had not given up these hopes, and hence the necessity of knowing his position. True, in 1846, in a speech before the Senate, he stated that when he made the Ashburton treaty in 1842 he had said : "The govern ment of the United States has never offered any line south of 49 degrees, and it never will." As far as the last sentence is concerned, "it never will," when said in 1842, this was merely his opinion, as he could not tell what the government would certainly do. As far as the first sentence is concerned, Mr. Benton gives the reason. In 1843, he said, senators were sounded by the American negotiator, Mr. Webster, each on the point which lay nearest to him which was to go into the treaty, and whatever they agreed to was put into the treaty, in order that they might feel bound to sustain the treaty by their votes. "The President said that there were conferences about Ore gon, qualified as informal, which is evidence there would have been formal negotiations if the informal had promised suc- 1 "Oregon Historical Society Quarterly," September, 1900, p. 240. 194 Marcus Whitman cess. The informal did not so promise, and the reason was that the two Senators from Missouri, being sounded on the subject of a conventional divisional line, repulsed the sug gestion with an earnestness which put an end to it. If they had yielded the Valley of the Columbia would have been di vided. . . ." Hence, according to Mr. Benton, Mr. Webster was willing privately to yield all north of the Columbia in August, 1842, and would have done so had it not been for Senators Benton and Linn. While we accept Mr. Webster's statement made above, that the government had never offered any line south of forty-nine degrees, yet that statement does not settle the question of Mr. Webster's private opinion, nor any change which may have taken place in his opinion between August, 1842, when the Ashburton treaty was made, and March, 1843 (when Dr. Whit man reached Washington), on account of the influence of Sir George Simpson or others. Nor does it settle the point but what Webster, although he may have claimed that the rights of the United States extended as far north as forty-nine de grees, may have been willing to have exchanged some of those rights for an "equivalent" consideration. On these points other evidence must be introduced.1 As to his private opinion at the time the Ashburton treaty was made, Mr. Webster himself said in 1846, in the same speech in which he had stated that "The United States had never of fered any line south of forty-nine degrees," that he had added, that while this "must be regarded as the general line of boun dary, not to be departed from for any line farther south," yet, "the use of the Columbia River by England, permanently or for a number of years, and the use of the straits and sounds in the adjacent sea, and the islands along the coast, would be all matters of friendly negotiations." This evidently means that he was willing to yield all this to England. His idea of the value of Oregon may be gathered from the fact that in 1846 he said that the St. John's River, on the northeast boun dary of Maine, was for all purposes of human use worth a 1 Benton's "Thirty Years," vol. 2, p. 476. National Work — Objections 195 hundred times as much as the Columbia was or ever would be.1 This was three years after Dr. Whitman was there, and after Oregon as a national question had entered into the presiden tial election of 1844, and about the time the Oregon treaty was made. Twiss, an English writer, in his Oregon Territory, says: "It were idle to speculate upon those future destinies, whether the circumstances of the country justify Mr. Webster's antici pations that it will form at some not very far distant day an independent confederation, or whether the natural divisions of Northern and Southern Oregon are likely to attach, ultimately, the former by community of interests to Canada, and the lat ter to the United States."2 In 1845, too, before the Oregon treaty was made, Mr. Web ster said, in opposing the admission of Texas: "The govern ment is very likely to be endangered, in my opinion, by a fur ther enlargement of the territorial surface, already so vast, over which it is extended,"3 thus like Winthrop and many others placing himself on record against the territorial enlarge ment of the United States. Thus far Mr. Webster's private opinions have been given. Here then we have Mr. Webster's' ideas : Oregon not worth much, not a hundredth part as much as the Valley of the St. Johns; not wanted because the United States already had as much territory as she ought to have; and that it might set it self up as an independent confederation, even if the United States should obtain a nominal title to it. (4) But there was talk of trading off Oregon. In 1827 a resolution had been introduced into Congress by Mr. Knight, of Rhode Island, asking the President to open negotiations with Great Britain to exchange Oregon for Upper Canada. In 1844, Mr. Choate, Senator from Massachusetts [Mr. Webster's state, Webster not then being in the Senate, having left it to accept the position of Secretary of State, and then in 1843 having resigned that position], hinted again at "equivalents 1 "Webster's Speeches," vol. 5, p. 102. 2 P. 264, written January, 1846. ' Barrows' "Oregon," p. 200. 196 Marcus Whitman for Oregon." This alarmed Mr. Breese, of Illinois, who did not know what was meant unless it might be money or some thing like Mr. Knight's idea of 1827. Thus there was talk of trading off Oregon. Early in 1844 a bill was introduced before the Senate ask ing for all the correspondence and instructions on the subject of Oregon since March 4, 1841. January, 1844, Mr. Benton said while discussing this bill : "The Senator from Ohio, Mr. Allen, has read you a part of the debate in Parliament in Feb ruary last (1843),1 in which the British minister, Sir Robert Peel, has made a very extraordinary declaration — a declara tion in full terms — that President Tyler has made propositions on the subject of Oregon, which would render it impossible for him to have signed the bill which passed the Senate at the last session to grant land to the Oregon settlers. His word is 'impossible.' " Mr. Benton was indignant that anything should have been done which would render it impossible for the Presi dent to have signed a bill passed by the Senate, and wanted to know why the American people could not know as much on the subject as the British Parliament. The bill, however, before the Senate was lost by a vote of 31 to 14, the correspondence was not obtained, and the writer has not been able to learn any more about the communication of the President to Great Britain. But it is plain from this that some very important papers had about that time been sent to England which threatened the possession of Oregon by the United States. In a speech of Senator D. R. Atchison, of Missouri, Febru ary 22, 1844, in Congress, he said : "Give us the countenance of our government; give us your protection; give us govern ment and laws and we will soon fill up the country (Oregon), we will take possession of it, and we will keep that possession. Do but assure us that we will not be traded off— that we are not to become British subjects — that we are to remain mem bers of the glorious Republic, we will take possession, and we will keep that possession in defiance of British power." 2 ^his was just before Dr. Whitman reached Washington. 2,See "Oregonian," November 26, 1897. National Work — Objections 197 Another item, too, is significant. Soon after the Ashbur ton treaty was signed in August, 1842, Lord Aberdeen had, through H. S. Fox, the British minister at Washington, con sulted with Secretary Webster about resuming negotiations on the Oregon question. This was October 18, 1842. On Novem ber 25, following, Mr. Webster had replied, saying that the President concurred in the suggestion and would make a communication to our minister in England at no distant day. The next letter extant, however, is dated nearly a year later, October 9, 1843. Then Hon. A. P. Upshur, who had succeeded Mr. Webster as Secretary of State, wrote Edward Everett, our minister in London, saying: "The offer of the forty-ninth parallel of latitude, although it has been once rejected, may be again tendered, together with the right of navigating the Co lumbia River upon equitable terms; beyond this, the Presi dent is not prepared to go." Why was this delay of nearly a year? It certainly gave time for the President to know practically that the immigration which Dr. Whitman had promised to lead through was a large one, and so that Oregon could be peopled overland from the United States. If this is not so, can any one answer the question, why, when the Presi dent had said he would make the Oregon question the subject of immediate attention, and promised that at no distant day a communication would be sent on the subject, none is now on record for nearly a whole year? If all the statements made can thus be reconciled, there is no contradiction, and they after all make Dr. Whitman a saviour of Oregon. The saving of Oregon was undoubtedly like a chain of several links, of which if any one had been broken, all attached to the end would have been lost. This was one of the links, and he prevented it being broken. The evidence is that both he and Governor Simpson were unofficial earnest workers for their respective countries, and that he won. In confirmation of this a writer, E. D. F., in the New York , of January 27, 1870, says that an eminent legal gentleman of Massachusetts, a personal friend of Mr. Webster with whom he had several times conversed on the subject, re marked to the writer of this article : "It is safe to assert that our country owes it to Dr. Whitman and his associate mission- 198 Marcus Whitman aries, that all the territory west of the Rocky Mountains and south as far as the Columbia River is not now owned by Eng land and held by the Hudson's Bay Company." l 4. The fourth objection which has been raised is that the story cannot be true because it was not published earlier. Says Mrs. F. F. Victor in the Astorian: "This I do say, and can substantiate it, that until Mr. Gray, about 1866, set this story afloat, nobody had ever heard of it." Says Hon. E. Evans : "No living person in Oregon or Washington prior to July 4, 1865, ever heard national motive or political influence attributed to the winter journey of Dr. Whitman in 1842-3."2 He also asserted his belief that no one on this coast originated the myth, but that it was done by the American Board at Bos ton, that in 1864-5 the Hudson's Bay Company were prosecut ing their mammoth claim against the United States, "one huge item of which was for having mollified the savage dispo sition of the natives," and that if the Company could gain a reward for this, how much more would the Board gain, if it could be proved that political benefits had accrued from the presence of the missionaries in the country, and that grants of land would be but a trifle for such services ; that Dr. S. B. Treat originated the story, and then sent to the Pacific Coast for proofs of it. Professor Bourne also takes the position that the story can not be true because it was not published earlier than 1864. It may here be stated (1) that it was first published about 1864; (2) that it was heard long before by different parties. The first time that the writer knows that it was published was in 1 864 in the Sacramento Union and San Francisco Pacific. The winter before, the tomahawk with which Dr. Whitman had been killed was presented to the State of Oregon at the Legis lature. At that time this story about Dr. Whitman's trip East was related as told to the speaker, Speaker Moore. Hon. 1This article has always been credited to the "New York Inde pendent," but a search in that paper has failed to find it. The writer has the whole printed article found in Mr. Spalding's papers after his death, and signed "E. D. F.," or "E. D. B.," the last letter being slightly torn. 2 "Oregonian," December 23, 1884. National Work — Objections 199 S. A. Clarke wrote it out and sent it to the Sacramento Union. The San Francisco Bulletin published the same about the same time.1 About the same time Mr. Spalding sent it to The Pa cific. In 1866-8 it was published in a long series of articles by Mr. Spalding in the Albany (Oregon) Democrat, and by Mr. Gray in the Astorian. Dr. Cushing Eells, by request, sent it to the American Board in 1866, and it was published in the Missionary Herald in December. There were three reasons why it was not published earlier. (a) The work had been done in 1843. The seed thus sown did not bring forth fruit until 1846 when the treaty was made. One reason why the story was not published soon after was that it would have been very unwise to have done so before the breaking up of the mission in 1847. The mission was en tirely dependent on the Hudson's Bay Company for their sup plies. Far inland as they were situated, they could not have existed without the help of the Company and its protection. Had Dr. Whitman proclaimed what he did, which was to take away the country from the English and so from the Company, and thus break up their business in Oregon, as was really done, it would undoubtedly have alienated and angered them, and thus broken up the mission. The evidence, however, is that Dr. Whitman or some one who knew of his motives did tell it at first. What is written in Mr. Hines' journal about the Doctor's avowed intention to bring back as many emigrants as he could was evidently written before his return. P. B. Whitman says that Mr. A. McKinley told him that the Doctor made that great ride to rob his people of a vast territory, and that he openly declared his purpose before he made the jour ney.2 The evidence is that Dr. Whitman did say this before he went, but that afterwards, seeing the danger to the mission of its being made public, he was far more guarded. Hence, on his way back it does not appear that he told it to any of the immigrants, for they were to settle in the Willamette Valley, and would have constant intercourse with the officers of the 1 See "Danville Advertiser," N. Y., May 4, 1865, which copied it. 2 "Oregonian," December 4, 1895. 200 Marcus Whitman Hudson's Bay Company at Vancouver. Likewise, Dr. Geiger says that "he had his reasons for not telling everybody,"1 and that he "asserted that he was so anxious to prevent trouble and hold in check the hostility that would be natural in those who upheld British interests, that he never alluded to his wish to save Oregon from British ascendancy nor conversed with any one on that subject on the journey." ' (b) Mrs. Walker gives a second reason: "Much," she says, "was said about that time about the Methodist mission aries coming here, and then leaving their legitimate missionary calling to make money, and for other purposes, and some dis grace was brought on the missionary cause. Mr. Walker and associates felt that Dr. Whitman, in leaving missionary work and going on this business, was likely also to bring disgrace on the cause, and were so afraid of it that for a long time they would hardly mention the object of Dr. Whitman's journey publicly. I remember plainly that Mr. Walker often prayed after Dr. Whitman had gone, that if it was right for him to go on this business he might be preserved, but if not his way might be hedged up. When the statements first began to be made publicly of this political object of Dr. Whitman's journey East, we were then afraid that disgrace would be brought on our mission."8 To show that there was reason for this fear, a few quotations are in order, for while the author does not say that they are true, yet they show what was said at the time. Rev. C. G. Nicolay says of the missionaries : "On the Willam ette they sink into political agents and would-be legislators."* Rev. Stephen Olin, a Methodist bishop, says, concerning the same mission : "The missionaries were in fact mostly engaged in secular affairs — concerned in claims to large tracts of land, claims to city lots, farming, merchandizing, grazing, horse keeping, lumbering, and flouring. We do not believe that the history of missions exhibits another such spectacle," and he adds that "the mission became odious to the growing popula- 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 4. 2 "Oregonian," June 1, 1895. 3 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 11. * Nicolay's "Oregon Territory," edition 1846, p. 178. National Work — Objections 201 "tion." 1 These things having been written by Protestant clergy men, it is easy to see what remarks would be made by rough mountaineers, who cared almost nothing for religion, however unjust their remarks might have been ; and hence, the justness •of the reasons given by Mrs. Walker. (c) A third reason why the story was not published earlier, even after the death of the Doctor, was that neither Messrs. Walker or Eells were writers for the press. Outside ¦ of their reports to the Board, which it was necessary for them to make, and some sermons and addresses written for delivery but published by request, one or two articles is all that either ever wrote, and none previous to 1866. To them it was a great task to write for the press. Mr. Spalding was, however, a willing writer. But in 1843 the one great thing uppermost in his mind was the causes of the Whitman massacre. He be lieved the Catholics to be the prime cause. To prove this was "his great desire, for it overshadowed all other subjects. He published his views in the Oregon American and Evangelical ¦ Unionist of Hillsboro, Oregon, which was edited by Rev. J. S. •Griffin. This was in 1848-9. But Mr. Griffin's printer left for the recently discovered gold mines of California after Mr. Spalding had written a few" articles. These articles were se vere against the Catholics. No other printer could be ob tained, and the paper suspended. It was not long before Mr. ; Spalding sought other papers in which to publish his views. But newspapers in those early days were very few in Oregon, ; and they refused him the use of their columns, for they knew how severe he was on the Catholics, and did not wish to an tagonize them. He felt it keenly and often spoke of it to his friends. Hence it was not until 1864 that he found a place for publishing his articles, and it was in The Pacific. By this time years had passed, and he was led to look at other sub jects connected with the missions as being of equal importance, and so wrote of Dr. Whitman's trip East. Had Mr. Spald ing lived fifteen years longer than he did, he would undoubtedly have thought it a little hard to be told that the story was not 1 "History of the Catholic Church in Oregon," p. 13. 202 Marcus Whitman true because not published earlier, when for many years he had been trying in vain to reach the public through the press. But although not published earlier, it was known to many. In reply to inquiries made by the author he has received sev eral letters on this subject, which are here given, together with a little more evidence in the same line. As this objection was not raised until early in the eighties, most of the witnesses had to depend on their memories.1 Rev. G. H. Atkinson, D. D., came to Oregon in 1848. Under date of March 19, 1885, he wrote: "I filed many letters that came to me in early years, and his (Mr. Spalding's) among the rest, and packed them in a box, but mice and rats got in and made their nests, and the larger portion were lost. Hence I cannot fix the date (when I first heard the story). It had been in my mind some years (previous to 1865) as a great historical fact to the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and to Chris tian institutions on this Northwest Coast, and to the nation as well. While East in 1865, I called upon Rev. S. B. Treat, secretary of the A. B. C. F. M., and made known the facts as stated to me by Mr. Spalding. He was much surprised that Dr. Whitman had done so much to save Oregon, and thus prepare the way to secure California by concurrent events. He intimated that Brother Spalding wrote and said extravagant things sometimes, and that they must be careful of quoting and relying on him implicitly. I replied that I knew Brother Spalding's rather erratic way of leaping to conclusions, but on more acquaintance I usually found him very correct in the statement of facts, though strong in prejudice against the Jesuits and some who seemed to uphold them. I then said to him, 'Mr. Treat, I wish you to know these facts, as they are for the honor of God in your missions in Oregon, and for the encouragement of the churches. I refer you to Rev. Cush ing Eells to confirm what I say. He is very careful in all his statements. You all rely upon him.' He said, 'We do, and I will write him.' He did so, and your father (C. Eells) con firmed what I said, and added more facts, which they used 1 Nearly all of this was published in the "Oregonian" of May 21, 1885. National Work — Objections 203 at their annual meeting at Pittsfield and made a strong impres sion." Dr. A. H. Steele, late of Olympia, in referring to the state ment of Mr. Evans that no one knew, before 1865, that it was claimed for Dr. Whitman that he had saved the country, said: "Mr. Walker told me that in Oregon City ten years before that." Prof. Thomas Condon, of Eugene, Oregon, wrote that he heard Mr. Spalding speak of Dr. Whitman's journey East the same year he came to Oregon, 1855, but heard more especially about his intentions and efforts to induce emigrants to come to Oregon. Mr. G. F. Colbert, of Crawfordsville, Oregon, wrote, April 8, 1885 : "As to the facts in the case about Dr. Whitman and his winter journey East, I know nothing, as it all took place before I came to the country, but when Victor, Evans and Com pany say that nobody ever heard that the Doctor's object was to save Oregon to the United States until 1865 or 1866, they are mistaken. I certainly heard Mr. Spalding tell about it in the fall of 1852, and it doejs appear to me that I heard him tell it a dozen times before 1865." Mrs. Colbert went to Brownsville to teach school in the fall of 1852, and while boarding around made her home for a time in Mr. Spalding's family. She be lieves she heard that statement about Dr. Whitman privately from him at that time, though she thinks she heard it pre viously in public from him in a sermon. Rev. Horace Lyman came to Oregon in 1849, and says that he heard within a year or two after his arrival that Dr. Whit man's main object in going East was a political one.1 Judge R. P. Boise, of Salem, Oregon, came in 1857, and im mediately visited his fellow townsman, Cushing Eells, at For est Grove. In his address before the Oregon Pioneer Asso ciation in 1876, he alludes to this visit, and says that he (Mr. Eells) thought that while the missions to the Indians had in a measure been a failure, yet that God had guided here the feet of the missionaries as the forerunners of civilization ; that had they not been here in those early days, and advised the '"Oregonian," February 15, 1885. 204 Marcus Whitman United States government of the value of the country, it would have passed under the British crown, and the flag of the Union never floated over it.1 The late Rev. O. Dickinson, of Salem, who came to Oregon in 1853, says under date of March, 1885: "I cannot call to mind any circumstance which will fix the date of hearing about Dr. Whitman's specific object in his journey to the States, the winter spoken of, but I know I heard both Mr. Atkinson and Mr. Spalding speak of it at quite an early day, and as I recol lect about 1857." Says Mr. Luther White, of Brownsville, Oregon, in a letter dated April 8, 1885 : "I became acquainted with Rev. H. H. Spalding in the summer of 1849. Sometime in September following I had an interview with him. I asked him what he thought was the probable cause of the massacre. Mr. Spalding related the incident of Dr. Whitman's journey in the winter to the Atlantic States as perhaps the prime cause. I heard Jo siah Osborne relate the same thing in substance. I think Mr. Osborne said he received his information from Dr. Whitman. The conversation with Mr. Osborne was after the conversation with Mr. Spalding, I think in 1850." 2 Says Mr. James Blakely, of Brownsville, under date of April 14, 1885 : "I heard Rev. H. H. Spalding speak of Dr. Whitman's going East for purposes stated in your letter (to do what he could to save the country), as early as 1849, and am ready at any time to make affidavit to that effect." Mr. H. L. Brown, of Brownsville, who came across the plains in 1846, wrote April 7, 1885: "My first acquaintance Avith Rev. H. H. Spalding was in the winter of 1848-9, when he and P. B. Whitman came to my house and remained several days, and to the best of my recollection he made the statement to me at that time that the object of Dr. Whitman's trip back East in 1842-3 was to use his influence with the authorities at Washington for the purpose of saving Oregon to the American 1 Transactions Oregon Pioneer Association, 1876, p. 26. 2 This letter was written in reply to one asking Mr. White when he first heard that Dr. Whitman's main object in going East was t: save the country. Mr. Osborne came to Oregon in 1847, and with his family was at Dr. Whitman's at the time of the massacre. National Work — Objections 205 people, and bringing a train of emigrants across the plains in 1843. I then went to California in the spring of 1849, and did not return home until January, 1850, when I found H. H. Spalding my nearest neighbor, and from that time on for sev eral years I can state positively that I "heard Mr. Spalding fre quently relate that the main object of Dr. Whitman's trip back East was to use his influence with the authorities as above stated, and to bring a train of emigrants across the plains to the Columbia River. "Also I can further state that I was a member of the terri torial Legislature of Oregon in 1854-5, when I became ac quainted with Hon. A. L. Lovejoy, who was a member of said Legislature, when I heard him relate the story of his trip across the plains with Dr. Whitman in 1842-3, and to the best of my recollection, his statement in regard to the object of Dr. Whitman's trip back East was substantially the same as that made by H. H. Spalding." The late Mr. Horace Hart, of Prescott, Washington, a broth er of the first Mrs. Spalding, April 10, 1885, wrote : "In regard to the story about Dr. Whitman's journey East in 1842-3, to save a part of this Northwest Coast to the United States, I will state that both Mr. Spalding and his wife told me of it in the fall of 1846, and I feel tolerably certain that I heard Dr. Whit man and Mr. Spalding talking about it in the winter of 1847, while the Doctor was at Mr. Spalding's mission on the Lap wai." Thus here are eleven witnesses (not even counting Dr. At kinson), who heard this story from the three men connected with the mission at its close, H. H. Spalding, E. Walker and C. Eells, and also from A. L. Lovejoy and J. Osborne, from 1846 to 1857. Dr. Atkinson's statement as to how the American Board first fully realized it, is not new to many who were ac quainted with him. CHAPTER VIII. THE IMMIGRATION OF 1843. (5) A fifth objection has been raised that Dr. Whitman did nothing worth mentioning to induce any of the immigrants of 1843 to start for Oregon. Some writers claim that three things determine what nation shall possess any new country — priority of discovery, taking formal possession, and actual set tlement, especially the first and last. The first with relation to Oregon was a disputed point between Great Britain and the United States. It was becoming plain, therefore, that the last, the actual settlement, was to decide the question. The English saw it and were working for it. As far as trade was concerned, the Hudson's Bay Company had gained the victory, and had driven from Oregon every American company which had at tempted to engage in the fur business. But they knew that fur traders alone would not hold Oregon. Actual settlers would do far more than they could do. A settlement, begun by the Methodist missionaries and in creased by free trappers and a few others, was growing up in the Willamette Valley. The Hudson's Bay Company could not drive them out by means which could possibly be recognized as legal, as they had the fur companies. It was necessary to re sort to other tactics. They realized that the only way to overcome the influences of this settlement was to bring enough of their own people to outnumber the Americans. It was not very difficult to do this at that time. In the fall of 1840, according to Gray's History of Oregon, there were 137 Americans in the country, including mission aries, settlers, women and children, and early in 1842 the number was not far different. At the same time there were 63 Canadians, exclusive of those who were directly in the em ploy of the Hudson's Bay Company. Hence, it would not re quire a great increase of British subjects to outnumber the The Immigration of 1843 207 Americans, especially when we consider what use might have been made of the persons directly connected with the Company, of whom there were more than flve hundred west of the Rocky Mountains. Accordingly, in 1841, an immigration of about eighty persons was brought from the Red River settlement at Manitoba, and there is good reason to believe that it was the intention of the Company to bring another immigration a year or two later. At least that is the testimony of one of the im migrants of 1841; but they were so dissatisfied with their treatment by the Company after their arrival that the colony scattered, and so no more immigrants came from that place. In 1811-12 the same company had adopted a similar policy to cut off the trade of the French Northwest Fur Company, and the Red River settlement, directly in the line of their trade, was the result. Dr. Whitman realized these facts, evidently, more clearly than any other American on the Coast. A favorite idea with Senator Benton was that the best way to settle the Oregon question was to plant thirty thousand rifles in the Willamette Valley. These, he thought, would hold the country. But to do this was not very practical, as it would involve action by the government, which at best is usually slow, and would also look as if the United States intended to take military posses sion of the country, which would be an infraction of the treaty then existing, allowing joint occupation. Dr. Whitman believed in the same principle of possession by settlement, but had a more practical plan of carrying it out. It was to plant a few thousand settlers in the country with sheep instead of rifles. It is not, however, true that he in duced the whole of the immigration of 1843 to start, for other causes had been at work. Some of those immigrants never heard of him until they were well on their way. Senator Ap pleton had prepared a Congressional report, which was read by some people with care. Senator Linn, of Missouri, had not long previously introduced a bill into Congress granting six hundred and forty acres of land to each man and one hundred and sixty acres to each child who should emigrate to Oregon. With his colleague, Senator Benton, he worked earnestly for the Northwest Coast, and this had the effect of inducing more 208 Marcus Whitman of the people of Missouri to come among the first immigrant® than came from any other state. Consequently, Hon. J. M. Shively, late proprietor of As toria, Oregon, began in November, 1842, to work earnestly for the object, holding meetings in Missouri and going to Washing ton to further the cause. Senator Linn's bill did not finally pass as it was first introduced, but there was considerable prob ability that it would, and this was one means of interesting Hon. P. H. Burnett in the subject, who also held meetings with the same object in view. Mr. Robert Shortess had crossed the plains in 1839, and he wrote letters to friends in Missouri describing the country, which caused the Applegates and some others to determine to come, and by the use of the press they aroused others. But Mr. Shortess, according to Rev. J. S. Criffin, who also came in 1839, wrote some of his letters from Dr. Whitman's and doubtless received some of his information from the Doctor. It would not be strange if the Doctor knew of these efforts of Mr. Shortess. Dr. White in 1842 brought an immigration of 137 persons, and the efforts aroused others who could not come that year, but who did come in 1843. Mr. James Athey, of Oregon City, and Hon. J. W. Nesmith were among those thus influenced to come. The immigration of 1842, by far the largest which had then come, showed very plainly the growing interest about Oregon in the States. Even as early as May 12, 1842, Mr. Gray had written to the Board : "There will probably be a large party of emigrants coming to this country in the spring of 1843. Some young men are now returning with the expectation of bringing out a party next spring." (a) We will first consider the Doctor's intentions and ef forts in this line. One of his reasons for going East was, as Rev. Gustavus Hines expresses it, "With the avowed inten tion of bringing back with him as many as he could enlist for Oregon." " Says P. B. Whitman: "Dr. Whitman's trip East, in the winter of 1842-43, was for the double purpose of bringing an immigration across the plains, also to prevent, if possible, the 1 "American Historical Review," January, 1901, p. 294. The Immigration of 1843 209 trading off of this Northwest Coast to the British Govern ment." Dr. S. J. Parker, son of Eev. Samuel Parker, in speaking of Dr. Whitman's two visits to his father, in 1843, both before going to Washington and after, says: "At both times the subject of emigration was talked of. Dr. Whitman said many in Illinois and Missouri, etc., were ready to go and would go in the spring, as soon as the grass grew." 1 Says Dr. Geiger, after giving his account of Dr. Whitman's interview at Washington, and of the promise he received from the President that he would wait before proceeding further with the Oregon business, until the Doctor should see whether he could get the immigration through, "he immediately sent back word to Missouri to those who wished to go, and had it published in the papers and in a pamphlet." 2 The following was written by Whitman from the Shaw nee mission near Westport, Missouri, May 28, 1843, to his brother-in-law, J. G. Prentiss: "You will be surprised to learn that I am here yet. I have been, as it were, waiting for three weeks. When I got to St. Louis I found I had time and so I went to Quincy (111.) and saw sister Jane, but Edward was not there. ... I shall start tomorrow or next day. Some of the emigrants have been gone a week and others are just going. The number of men will be over two hundred, be- 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 26. 2 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 4. The objection has been raised more than once that this was not so, because no such pamphlet and no such statements in any papers have been found. This to the au thor is no valid objection, for he has lived so long on the frontier as to know that many pamphlets go so completely out of existence that some are never found, and some only by the merest chance. It is almost or quite impossible to obtain full files of many of the news papers published in the forties. He has never heard that any search has been made among the papers of Missouri of 1843 for anything of this kind. Even books go to the unknown. For example, he had never seen Palmer's "Journal of Travels Over the Rocky Mountains in 1845-6," a book of 189 pages, although two editions were published, in 1847 and 1852, and yet he has tried both in the East and West to obtain a copy. All he knows of it is from the testimony of those who have seen it. It is many more times probable that a small pamphlet of 1843 would go to the unknown. 210 Marcus Whitman sides women and children. This tells for the occupation of Oregon. A great many cattle are going, but no sheep, from a mistake of what I said when passing. Next year will tell for sheep. . . . You will be best judge what can be done, and how far you can exert yourself in these matters, and whether the secret service fund can be obtained. As now de cided in my mind, this Oregon will be occupied by American citizens. Those who go only open the way for more another year. Wagons will go all the way, I have no doubt, this year. . . . Sheep and cattle, but especially sheep, are indispensable for Oregon. ... I mean to impress on the Secretary of War that sheep are more important to Oregon interests than soldiers. We want to get sheep and stock from Government for Indians, instead of money for their lands. I have written him on the main interests of the Indian country, but I mean still to write him a private letter touching some particular in terests. I shall not be at all surprised to see some, if not all, of you on our side of the mountains. Jackson talked favor ably." 1 From this it will be seen that he was trying to induce his friends to go to Oregon, and that he had said something about immigrants going there when he was passing through Missouri, on his way East, as he was misunderstood about sheep. The following, written by Mr. Prentiss to the author, from West Almond, N. Y., November 18, 1883, bears further on the subject : "If I could see and talk to you of what the Doc tor said to me on the subject of his trip, and how anxious he was to continue his journey and get all to go with him he came in contact with in this town, and eight miles from here at West Almond, where I then lived, and on his way to Cuba, where my father and mother lived at that time, it would explain much that he wrote me about. His project was, so far as the In dians were concerned, to induce the Government to pay them off for their land in sheep, and leave them to be a herding peo ple. Hence he wrote in his letter to me about a secret fund that was controlled by the Cabinet, etc., and in his urgent solicitations was so anxious to have Mr. Jackson, a brother-in- 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 33. The Immigration of 1843 211 law, and myself to go. He would have it, my aged parents, Judge Prentiss and wife, might endure the journey, and his solicitations outside of the family were just as urgent, portray ing the beauties of that country to all that would listen to his story." 1 To induce people to emigrate to Oregon and to make sure cf their reaching the Columbia Eiver with their wagons, was to be the proof of his statement at Washington that Oregon was worth saving. (b) How much the Doctor did accomplish the author has for many years endeavored to learn from the emigrants of 1843. Thus far he has learned in various ways from thirty- eight. It is not necessary here to reproduce the letters of those who were not influenced in any way by the Doctor to come. They were Hon. Lindsay Applegate and Hon. Jesse Ap- plegate, and A. Hill, who were induced to start because of Mr. Shortess' letter; Mr. Matheny, W. J. Dougherty, John B. Mc- Lane, J. G. Barker, J. M. Shively, N. K. Sitton (who came be cause of reading Lewis and Clark's expedition), Mrs. Jesse Looney, P. G. Stewart, W. C. Hembree, H. A. Straight, D. S. Holman, William Wilson, S. M. Gilmore, H. D. O'Bryant, O. Brown, James Athey, and Hon. J. W. Nesmith (who came be cause of Dr. White's work the year before), and Gov. P. H. Burnett, and W. T. Newby (who came because of the Linn bill), twenty-two persons in all.2 On the other hand, the following letters and statements give evidence that Dr. Whitman did induce some to start who would not otherwise have done so. William Waldo, January 21, 1883, wrote : "I have to say that Dr. Whitman was in some of the Eastern States in the winter of 1842 and 3, and wrote several newspaper articles in relation to Oregon, and particularly in regard to the health of the country. These letters decided my father to move to this country, as he had already determined to leave Missouri. . . . I first saw him on the Big Blue Eiver. ... I was then about ten years of age, but I remember him very dis- 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 34. 2 See Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet" for letters from some of these. 212 Marcus Whitman tinctly, for the reason that he was a very remarkable man in many respects." ! Mrs. C. B. Cary, February 21, 1883, wrote the author: "It was a pamphlet Dr. Whitman wrote that induced me to come to Oregon. Met him first on the plains." John Hobson, January 30, 1883, wrote : "My father's fam ily came to St. Louis in March, 1843, from England on our way to Wisconsin, but on account of snow and ice in the river we could not proceed, and while detained there we met the Doctor (Whitman) and several others, who were talking of coming to Oregon ; so by his description of the country, and proffered assistance in getting here free of charge, my father with fam ily, and Miles Eyers and family, Messrs. Thomas Smith, a Mr. Eicord, and J. M. Shively, all agreed to come. All came. Mr. Eyers was drowned in Snake Eiver, while crossing above Boise. Thomas Smith went to California in 1847. Mr. Eicord went to the Sandwich Islands and never returned. J. M. Shively re sides in Astoria, when at home, but is now in California for his health. The Doctor assisted Eyers and father in purchas ing wagons and mules in St. Louis." John Zachrey, February 7, 1868, wrote to Eev. H. H. Spald ing : "My father and his family emigrated to Oregon in 1843, from the State of Texas. I was then 17 years old. The occa sion of my father starting that season for this country, as also several of our neighbors, was a publication by Dr. Whitman, or from his representations concerning Oregon, and the route from the States to Oregon. In the pamphlet the Doctor de scribed Oregon, the soil, climate, and its desirableness for Amer ican colonies, and said he had crossed the Eocky Mountains that winter, principally to take back that season a train of wagons to Oregon. We had been told that wagons could not be taken beyond Fort Hall; but in this pamphlet the Doctor assured his countrymen that wagons could be taken from Fort Hall to the Columbia River, and to The Dalles, and from thence by boats to the Willamette; that himself and mission party 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 30. J. M. Shively afterwards said he did not start because of Dr. Whitman's work. The Immigration of 1843 213 had taken their families, cattle and wagons through to the Columbia six years before. It was this assurance of the mis sionary that induced my father and several of his neighbors to sell out and start at once for this country." 1 Mrs. C. S. Pringle, March 24, 1884, wrote the author : "In early life I resided near Uncle Enoch Garrison and wife, who came in '43. Mrs. Garrison often told me the incidents of the trip, and said that they read circulars issued by Dr. Whit man that caused them to come to Oregon, and I think that she said that they saw and talked with him about it." William Martin, present sheriff of Umatilla County, was living in Missouri in 1842 when the Oregon fever seized the Waldo family, and engaged himself to work for the Waldo family for one year, which included the journey to Oregon, and six months after his arrival. He and his cousin, James P. Martin, came with the Waldo outfit. He also remembers that in the winter preceding his departure from Missouri the news came in St. Louis papers that Mr. Whitman had arrived from Oregon and gave notice that he would pilot an emigration across the plains and take them through to the Columbia with their wagons. This encouraged many to make the journey, who would not otherwise have come." 2 Hon. Nineveh Ford, July 23, 1888, wrote the author : "In relation to Dr. Whitman, he went back to the States, '42. In my opinion the history that he gave of Oregon induced hun dreds of persons to Oregon, me with others." " The evidence also is that Nathan Eaton, Charles Eaton, A. J. Hembree, J. A. Stoughton, and P. B. Whitman came be cause of the representations of the Doctor.* This makes sixteen out of thirty-eight, or over two-fifths. P. G. Stewart, already referred to as saying he was not in duced through Di, Whitman's efforts to start, added, August 1 Spalding's "Congressional Pamphlet," p. 26. 2 "Oregonian," January 3. ' It is said that Mr. Ford, after writing the above, positively denied before his death that anything that the Doctor did induced him to immigrate. '"Oregonian," November 21, 1895, and "Whitman College Quar terly," March, 1898. 214 Marcus Whitman 4, 1887, in a letter to the author : "My recollection is that Dr. Whitman joined us several days after we started. There were a number of wagons overtook us about the same time. These people I have since learned were induced to come to Oregon by Dr. Whitman." (6) The sixth and last objection is that Dr. Whitman did nothing worth mentioning to help the immigrants, so that they should reach the Columbia River with their wagons. According to Governor P. H. Burnett, on the 18th of May, the immigrants who were at the rendezvous twelve miles west of Independence, Mo., and just beyond the State line, held a meeting and appointed a committee to see Dr. Whitman and attend to other business, and then adjourned to meet at the Big Springs on Saturday, May 20th. On that day Governor Burnett says he attended the meeting and met Dr. Whitman.1 As it has been denied that Dr. Whitman was there at that time, I will add that Senator Nesmith, in a letter to the author, says that he met Dr. Whitman for the first time either on that day or a day or two afterwards. Captain John Gantt, an old army officer, who had been over a part of the route several times with the fur trappers, was then employed as guide as far as Fort Hall. According to other authority, Dr. Whit man did not wish to serve as guide, as he did not wish to take that responsibility on himself. He worked, however, in har mony with the guide, according to Hon. Jesse Applegate, and his knowledge of the country and of the best ways of traveling at times made him guide de facto. On the 22nd of May the immigration started on their untried journey, or at least that part of it started in which Gov. Burnett was, though from Dr. Whitman's letters it is plain that he did not leave the Paw nee mission until several days later. They numbered 295 men over 16 years of age, capable of bearing arms; about 875 per sons, including women and children, 111 wagons, and about two thousand horses and cattle. At first the main body of the immigrants organized with the intention of traveling in one body, but it was soon found that it was too cumbrous to travel successfully. Mr. W. J. Dough- 1 "Recollections of an Old Pioneer," p. 101. The Immigration of 1843 215 erty says there was then considerable discussion as to whether or not it would be safe to divide into two companies. Dr. Whitman, he says, thought it was, and advised them to do so. This advice was followed and proved to be safe. At the cross ing of the Big Blue this division was made, and the two col umns traveled within supporting distance of each other as far as Independence Rock, on the Sweetwater. From this point all danger from the Indians was over, and the immigrants sep arated into small parties better suited to the narrow mountain paths and the small pastures. The Laramie River was so high from the melting of the snow that it could not be forded. Boats were made out of wagon-beds to form a ferry, and then it was necessary that a line be passed to the opposite shore. Says Mr. Waldo : "No one was willing to risk himself in swimming the river and car rying the line but Dr. Whitman, which he did successfully. With the line made fast around his waist, he plunged in and soon landed safe on the other shore, thus forming a complete ferry." "Those who saw him at the North Fork of the Platte River in June (July), where he bid them throw away their skin boats, prepared for crossing, and saw him for three days crossing and re-crossing that wide stream, swimming his horse to find the best ford ,and at last heard him order the one hun dred or more teams and wagons to be chained together and driven in one long line, to ford for two miles that river, swollen by spring floods, cheering the drivers, permitting not a mo ment's halt lest they should sink in the quicksands, will never forget the man and the deed." 1 One man, Thomas Ayres, it is said, then recently married, did not fancy this mode of crossing; so with his bride in a light wagon he started across independent of the train and Dr. Whitman's advice, but after both of them had received a thorough wetting because of their rashness, he acknowledged that the Doctor knew more than he did about the business, and that newly married people should not put on too much style in an emigrant train. 1 G. H. Atkinson's "Address before the Pioneer and Historical So ciety of Oregon," p. 10. 2 1 6 Marcus Whitman Says Hon. Jesse Applegate, in A Day With a Cow Column in 1843: "But a little incident breaks the monotony of the march. An emigrant's wife, whose state of health has caused Dr. Whitman to travel near the wagon for the day, is now taken with violent illness. The Doctor has had the wagon driven out of the line, a tent pitched, and a fire kindled. Many conjectures are hazarded in regard to this mysterious pro ceeding, and as to why this lone wagon is to be left behind; and we, too, must leave it, hasten to the front and note the proceedings, for the sun is getting low in the west. There are anxious watchers for the absent wagon, for there are many matrons who may be afflicted like its inmate before the journey is over, and they fear the strange and startling practice of the Oregon doctor will be dangerous. But as the sun goes down the absent wagon rolls into camp, the bright, speaking face and cheery look of the Doctor, who rides in advance, declare without words that all is well, and both mother and child are comfortable." "I would fain now and here pay a passing tribute to that noble and devoted man, Dr. Whitman. I will obtrude no other name upon the reader, nor would I his, were he of our party, or even living ; but his stay with us was transient, though the good he did was permanent, and he has long since died at his post. From the time he joined us on the Platte until he left us at Fort Hall, his great experience and indomitable energy were of priceless value to the migrating column. His constant advice, which we knew was based on a knowledge of the road before us, was, 'Travel, travel, travel; nothing else will take you to the end of your journey ; nothing is wise that does not help you along; nothing is good for you that causes a mo ment's delay.' His great authority as a physician, and com plete success in the case above referred to, saved us many pro longed and perhaps ruinous delays from similar causes, and it is no disparagement to others to say that to no other individual are the emigrants of 1843 so much indebted for the successful conclusion of their journey as to Dr. Marcus Whitman. . . . The encampment is a good one. One of the causes that threat ened much future delay has just been removed by the skill and energy of that 'good angel' of the emigrants, Dr. Whit- The Immigration of 1843 217 man, and it has lifted a load from the hearts of the elders. Many of these have assembled around the good Doctor, at the tent of the pilot (which is his home for the time being), and are giving grave attention to his wise and energetic counsel. The careworn pilot sits aloof, quietly smoking his pipe, for he knows the brave Doctor is strengthening his hands. But time passes ; the watch is set for the night. . . . Even the Doc tor and the pilot have finished their confidential interview, and have separated for the night." 1 Dr. Whitman then went ahead and soon wrote back a letter stating that the Catholic missionaries had discovered, by the help of their Flathead guide, a pass through the mountains by way of Fort Bridger, which was shorter than the old route, and the emigrants followed this route to their advantage. "At the crossing of Snake River, all the teams were chained together in a long string, the strongest in the lead, and the weakest in the middle," says Hon. S. A. Clarke. "For quite a space the water was swift and deep. As soon as the teams were in position, Dr. Whitman tied a rope around his wrist, and starting his horse into the swift stream, swam him over it. He then called for several others to do the same, and when there were enough of them to give the required force, the lead team was started into the current, and by the strength of the men and horses on the other side, they were drawn across. The long line of cattle swung down the stream in the ¦center, carried down by the strong current, but as soon as the lead teams touched bottom on the further side, everything was -safe." Hon. Nineveh Ford added the following incident in a con versation with the editor of the Walla Walla Gazette, in 1890 : •"In crossing the Snake River Dr. Whitman hitched all the wagons together. I had a stout team of oxen and I thought I could make it without hitching on. I drove in last behind the caravan. The wagons and teams formed a dam and raised the water and threw it back on me until it was beating my team down to a precipice and a whirlpool not more than thirty yards Ibelow. I turned the heads of the team up-stream, or tried to, '"Transactions Oregon Pioneer Association," 1876, pp. 63-64. 218 Marcus Whitman to see if they could not hold up, but they could not move. We stood there until the whole train went out on land on this side of the Snake River, Dr. Whitman leading the caravan. They got out all safe, and left me way back in the river. Dr. Whit man saw me and rode back on his horse and threw a rope to me and told me to hitch it on my lead oxen, and he then put it to the horn of his saddle. In this way he towed me out on main land. I have felt grateful to him ever since, and when he was massacred it affected me very much." Nothing more of special interest occurred until they reached Fort Hall. This was held by the Hudson's Bay Company as the key to Oregon, as far as wagons, and, consequently, any large emigration were concerned, and they did not propose to turn this key and unlock this gateway, if they could help it, or allow any one else to do so. Mr. John Dunn, who was for eight years in the employ of the Hudson's Bay Company, and who wrote his work on the Oregon Territory in 1843 or 1844,1 says that those who have passed through the gorge and over the towering heights of the Eocky Mountains give as their testimony that there is no se cure, expeditious or commodious track which can ever be used as a highway; and that, although more favorable ac counts had been given by those who had passed over during the previous year or two, yet these accounts were mere bravado. In 1840 Eev. H. Clark and a few missionary associates had come as far as Fort Hall with wagons. They were told by the agents of the Hudson's Bay Company that it was im practicable, if not impossible, to take their wagons to Walla Walla. Consequently, their teams and wagons were exchanged for pack animals and fixtures. In 1842 the same misrepresentations were again successful with the first regular company of emigrants of 137 persons, led by Dr. E. White,2 and now, in 1843, the same plan was again tried. Even two years later, in 1845, after the emi grants of 1843 and 1844 had taken their wagons to the Colum bia, says Gen. Joel Palmer, "the two crossings of Snake Eiver 1 Dunn's "Oregon Territory," pp. 345, 346. 2 Hasting's "Oregon and California," p. 20. The Immigration of 1843 219 and the crossing of the Columbia and other smaller streams were represented by those in charge of this fort as being at tended Avith great danger; it Avas also said that no company heretofore attempting the passage of those streams succeeded but with the loss of men from the violence and rapidity of the currents. In addition to the above, it was asserted that three or four tribes of Indians in the middle regions had combined for the purpose of preventing our passage through their coun try. In case we escaped destruction at the hands of the sav ages, we were told that a more fearful enemy, famine, would attend our march, as the distance was so great that winter would overtake us before making the Cascade Mountains. On the other hand, as an inducement to pursue the California route, we were informed of the shortness of the route, when compared with that to Oregon, as also of the many other su perior advantages it possessed." But the emigrants of 1845 knew that those of 1844 and 1843 had taken their wagons through ; those of 1844 knew the same to be true of those of 1843; but those of 1843 had no such precedent before them — in fact, no precedent but failure. Dr. Whitman evidently realized as much as Captain Grant did that here was the key to Oregon, and he proposed to un lock the door. It is doubtful whether any other man could have done so. He knew that in 1836 he had taken a cart as far as Fort Boise. He knew that in 1840 Dr. Robert Newell, Col. J. L. Meek, and two others, had taken three wagons to Walla Walla; and, although Dr. Newell had found it so dif ficult that he had on his arrival at Dr. Whitman's expressed his regret that he had undertaken the job, yet Dr. Whitman had said to him : "Oh, you will never regret it. You have broken the ice, and, when others see that wagons have passed, they, too, will pass, and in a few years the valley will be full of our people." At an opportune moment when Dr. Whitman was absent from camp at Fort Hall, similar discouraging representations were made to the emigrants of 1843. They were told that they must trade off their wagons or go to California. When Dr. Whitman came into camp, he found them in a sad state ; some in tears, some almost ready to accept the statements made, 220 Marcus Whitman and some, according to Mrs. C. S. Pringle, about ready to deal summarily with the Doctor for having induced them to come on such a trip. But he knew that "what man had done man could do," and, at this juncture, is said to have addressed them substantially as follows: "My countrymen, you have trusted me thus far ; believe me now. I will take your wagons to the Columbia River." Says Hon. J. W. Nesmith of this event: "Captain Grant endeavored to dissuade us from proceeding further with our wagons, and showed us the wagons that the emigrants of the preceding year had abandoned as an evidence of the impracti cability of our determination. Dr. Whitman was persistent in his assertion that wagons could proceed as far as the Grand Dalles of the Columbia River, from which point he asserted they could be taken down by rafts or batteaux to the Willam ette Valley, while our stock could be driven by an Indian trail over the Cascade Mountains, near Mount Hood. Happily, Whitman's advice prevailed, and a large number of the wagons, with a portion of the stock, did reach Walla Walla and The Dalles, from which points they were taken to the Willamette the following year. Had we followed Grant's advice, and aban doned the cattle and wagons at Fort Hall, much suffering must have ensued, as a sufficient number of horses to carry the women and the children of the party could not have been ob tained; besides, wagons and cattle were indispensable to men expecting to live by farming in a country destitute of such ar ticles."1 Gov. P. H. Burnett adds similar testimony as fol lows: "We had now arrived at a most critical period in our most adventurous journey, and we had many misgivings as to our ultimate success. We had yet to accomplish the untried and most difficult portion of our long and exhaustive journey. We could not anticipate at what moment we might be com pelled to abandon our wagons in the mountains, pack our scant supplies upon our poor oxen, and make our way on foot through this terribly rough country, as best we could. We fully comprehended the situation, but we never faltered in our inflexible determination to accomplish the trip, if within the 1 "Transactions Oregon Pioneer Society," 1873-5, p. 47. The Immigration of 1843 221 limits of possibility, with the resources at our command. Dr. Whitman assured us we could succeed, and encouraged and aided us with every means in his power. I consulted Mr. Grant as to his opinion of the practicability of our taking our wagons through. He replied that, while he would not say that it was impossible for us Americans to make the trip with our wagons, he could not see himself how it could be done. He had only traveled the pack trail, and, certainly, no wagons could follow that route ; but there might be a practicable road found by leaving the trail at certain points." 1 Says Mr. J. Baker, in a letter to the author: "He (Dr. Whitman) was up every morning and getting all hands ready for the day's march. Some time before we arrived at Fort Hall, the Doctor left us and said he would go on and, if he could not find a pilot to conduct us through, he would wait at Fort Hall till we came up. "The Doctor remained there until we came up, and told us that he could not get a pilot that he could rely upon to con duct us through. Captain Grant, after advising us to aban don our wagons or leave them and pack through, said, 'I was going to say that it was impossible to get through with your wagons, but I will not say that for if the Americans took a notion to remove Mount Hood they. would do it.' This I got from Captain Grant's own mouth. "Dr. Whitman was present, and said, at the same time, 'Never leave your wagons. I will take you through to my place this season, and I think you can go to The Dalles; but you cannot cross the Cascade Mountains this year.' " Orus Brown, of the same emigration, adds in a letter to Rev. H. H. Spalding, January 16, 1868: "I asked Captain Grant if he thought we could get through with our wagons; he answered, 'Yes, if you have a regiment to each wagon.' " H. D. O'Bryant also says in a letter to the same gentleman, March 5, 1868, that he heard Captain Grant repeatedly make the assertion that the wagons of the emigrants could not reach Oregon; that it was a worthless country, that there was no timber on the Columbia River except driftwood, but California 1 "Recollections of an Old Pioneer," p. 117. 222 Marcus Whitman was a splendid country, and he advised the emigrants by all means to go to California. Says P. B. Whitman: "When we arrived at Fort Hall I heard the commandant tell the immigrants that Dr. Whitman would starve them all to death if he got them down in the Green (Snake) River country. He said they could never get their wagons to the Columbia in their lives. I went and told Dr. Whitman about it, and he got the immigrants together and gave them a harangue. He told them he could get them to the Columbia River if he lived ; that they had just to stick to their wagons and follow him and he would get them through. There had been other small immigrations with wagons, but they had all come just that far and left their wagons, and got rid of their cattle, by driving them off or giving them away. 1 heard Dr. Whitman urge his followers to hold their cattle, as they were the ones that would make them a living when they got to the Willamette. He also told them they could not break the soil properly with Indian ponies. They all stuck to their wagons." 1 On account of the need of his professional services at the Lapwai mission, it became necessary for the Doctor to leave the main body of the emigrants, as they left Fort Hall, and proceed ahead. With the expectation that Dr. Whitman would bring some emigrants back with him, especially those who would aid in missionary work, Mr. Wm. Geiger, in charge of Dr. Whitman's station during his absence, had sent some provisions by Indians to Fort Hall. Most of these Dr. Whit man distributed to the emigrants before he started. Says J. B. McLane in a letter to the writer : "The Doctor was a man among men, and was a warm friend of mine. You may judge something of the man by the follow ing facts : When we left Fort Hall we secured a light wagon and put two horses to it for the purpose of leaving a track for the wagons to follow; from the fact that he expected Mrs. Spalding, and I think your mother, to be sick about that time, he left us at Grande Ronde and went on (to Mrs. Spalding's) before going home to his place. The Indians had brought con- 1 "Whitman College Quarterly," June, 1898, p. 35. The Immigration of 1843 223 siderable flour to him at Fort Hall, and the morning we left there he distributed all the provisions he had to the needy emigrants, except about fifty pounds for flve of us who were in his mess, and the only ones who went ahead of the wagons. I was the driver of the light wagon. I must state another fact — that he picked up some beef bones the morning we left Fort Hall, and a young calf that was dropped that morning; and of course, it was too young to traArel, and it was knocked on the head and put in my wagon for us to eat. But I lost that calf out before we arrived at camp ; it was rather young for us." While the Doctor preceded the main emigration and left a wagon track, he also procured Indian guides for those behind him. Says Hon. J. W. Nesmith: "Istikus, a Cayuse chief, and other Indians were returning from the buffalo country, and Dr. Whitman recommended him as a guide. He was a faithful old fellow, perfectly familiar with all the trails and topography of the country from Fort Hall to The Dalles, and although not speaking a word of English, and no one of our party a word of Cayuse, he succeeded by pantomime in taking us over the roughest wagon road I ever saw." In relation to the latter part of the journey, Dr. Whitman wrote: "I tried to leave the party at different points, but found that I could not do so without subjecting the emigrants to considerable risk. At the Grande Ronde, east of the Blue Mountains, I received a letter from Mr. Walker urging me to hasten to Mr. and Mrs. Spalding, who were both dangerously sick. Having engaged one of the Cayuses to conduct the party across the Blue Mountains into the main Columbia Valley, which he did in a very judicious manner, I went directly to Mr. Spalding's, where I arrived on the 25th of September." Having visited Dr. and Mrs. Spalding, whom he found convalescent, he went to his station, and then north a hundred and fifty miles to the station of Messrs. Walker and Eells on a professional visit, and then returned to greet some of the emi grants, who were by that time arriving at his own station. Says Governor Burnett : "On the 10th of October we arrived within three miles of Dr. Whitman's mission, and remained in camp until the 14th. 224 Marcus Whitman The exhausting tedium of such a trip and the attendant vexa tions, have a great effect upon the majority of men, especially those of weak minds. Men under such circumstances become childish, petulant and obstinate. I remember, while we were at the station of Dr. Whitman, who had performed much hard labor for us, and was deserving of our warmest gratitude, he was most ungenerously accused by some of our people of selfish motives in conducting us past his establishment, where we could procure fresh supplies of flour and potatoes. This fool ish, false and ungrateful charge was based upon the fact that he asked us a dollar a bushel for wheat and fifty cents for po tatoes. As our people had been accustomed to sell their wheat at from fifty to sixty cents a bushel, and their potatoes at from twenty to twenty-five cents in the Western States, they thought the prices demanded by the Doctor amounted to something like extortion; not reflecting that he had to pay at least twice as much for his own supplies of merchandise, and could not af ford to sell his produce as low as they did theirs at home." r Yet, as Dr. Whitman's mill had been burned by the Indians during his absence, it was necessary to transport the flour for them from the station of Rev. H. H. Spalding, a hundred miles distant. He also, it is said, furnished them a guide to The Dalles free of cost, and they went on their way rejoicing. While a few of the emigrants felt as Governor Burnett states, the larger share felt very grateful to him. Extravagant statements have been made of the confidence which they learned to have in him. It is reported that one man said that they were so ready to trust him that, if he had told them to drive up a fir tree, he believed they would have made the attempt. Mr. Jesse Applegate presented him with a cow in appreciation of his services. The following testimonials have been received by the writer from a few of the emigrants of that year. Says Mr. Wm. Waldo : "I was then about ten years of age, but remember him very distinctly for the reason that he was a remarkable man in many respects. If there was a river to cross, he was always 1 "Recollections of an Old Pioneer," p. 126. The Immigration of 1843 225 the first to pass over and report whether it was fordable or not; always full of life and energy, and never shrinking from any danger or responsibility." Says Mr. S. M. Gilmore: "The Doctor gave us a great deal of valuable information concerning our outfit and the manner we should travel, and told us many things about the country, and was the means of greatly encouraging the emi gration. He impressed on us the necessity of taking with us nothing but what we really needed for our journey. I will say that every time I talked with him he gave me valuable in formation, and I found him always as ready to give as I was to receive information. He was certainly one of the most in dustrious and energetic men I ever knew. He was of ines timable value to our emigration." Hon. J. Hobson says : "At the Indian mission, a few miles from Westport, he (Dr. Whitman) assisted us in getting more teams and horses. He did everything it was possible for a man to do to encourage with his presence and assist with labor to relieve the trip of its weariness, for he always was on hand when there was anything to do. After arriving at his station, he did all that he could to assist us with provisions, such as were to be had. Our part of the emigration being late, we were compelled to leave our teams and wagons until the fol lowing spring. We also left two of my sisters with the Doc tor. In the spring of 1844, I with some of our neighbors, went up after our teams and brought them down. I brought one of my sisters down and left one with the Doctor. She remained until 1846. He did not charge us anything for keeping the girls, neither did he charge us, or anybody that I ever heard of at the time, for his time or trouble ; but seemed to be satis fied that he had accomplished his object in safely bringing the emigration through." Says Hon. J. W. Nesmith : "Dr. Whit man was an honest, self-sacrificing, good man. I was a young man of twenty-three years, and, unincumbered with family or teams, spent much of my time in company with the Doctor, riding in advance to hunt the best wagon route. His courage and energy and devotion won my youthful admiration." In an address before the Pioneer Society of Oregon, in 1880, Mr. Nesmith also adds: 226 Marcus Whitman "I regard him as a quiet, unassuming man, and of great purity of character. He was of a powerful physical organiza tion, and possessed a great and a good heart, full of charity and courage, and utterly destitute of cant, hypocrisy, shams and effeminacy, and always terribly in earnest. While with us, he was clad entirely in buckskin, and rode upon one of those pa tient, long-eared animals without pride of ancestry or hope of posterity. The Doctor spent much time in hunting out the best route for the wagons, and would plunge into streams in search of practicable fords, regardless of the depth or temperature of water ; and sometimes, after the fatigue of a hard day's march, would spend much of the night in going from one party to another to minister to the sick. While his moral example was of the highest character, he said more to us about the practical matters connected with our march than he did about theology or religious creeds, and I believe that his conduct among the Indians was of the same practical and useful char acter." 1 Mr. W. C. Hembree adds : "Dr. Whitman was a noble man in deeds of kindness to the emigrants of 1843. He was all that could be wished, always ready to assist the emigrants in any way he could." Says Captain H. D. O'Bryant: "Now, as regards the services the Doctor rendered to the government as regarded the then situation of Oregon, they were invaluable. The ser vices the Doctor rendered the emigrants before reaching Fort Hall were of immense value. "From the Fort the journey commenced in earnest. This was the most difficult part of the way, and the portion of country that Captain Grant said the wagons could never pass, and it was useless to undertake it ; but in the face of all this the Doctor brought the emigration, wagons and all, through safely. And I say without fear of contradiction that the ser vices the Doctor rendered the emigration from Fort Hall to The Dalles were invaluable, and to prove it I will just refer you to the emigrants of 1845, who were in the Meek's cut-off, 1 "Transactions Oregon Pioneer Association," 1880, p. 22. The Immigration of 1843 227 and the emigration of 1846, who were in Applegate's (of Ump- qua) cut-off."1 Says P. G. Stewart: "The Doctor was of more service to us to that point (Fort Hall) than was our pilot. I do not know what we would have done, had not Dr. Whitman told us how and where to cross and recross Snake River and he saved us much time in getting through the Burnt River country, be sides he sent an Indian to pilot us through the Blue Mountains. Finally I would say that if Dr. Whitman did not get up the emigration of 1843, he fetched us safely through."2 Dr. Whitman's co-laborer, Rev. H. H. Spalding, sums up his work of that season as follows, in his flowery style: "And through that great emigration, during the whole summer, the Doctor was their eA'erywhere present angel of mercy minister ing to the sick, helping the weary, encouraging the wavering, cheering the mothers, mending wagons, setting broken bones, hunting stray oxen, climbing precipices, now in the rear, now in the center, now at the front ; in the rivers looking out fords ; through the quicksands; in the deserts looking out water; in the dark mountains looking out passes, at noontide or mid night, as though these thousands were his own children and those flocks were his own property. Although he asked not and expected not a dollar's reward from any source, yet he felt himself abundantly rewarded when he saw the desire of his heart accomplished, the great wagon route over the moun tains established, and Oregon in a fair way to be occupied with American settlements and American commerce. And especially he felt himself doubly paid when, at the end of his sucessful expedition, and standing alive at his home again, on the banks of the Walla Walla, these thousands (hundreds) of bis fellow summer pilgrims, way-worn and sunbrowned, took him by the hand and thanked him with tears for what he had done." 3 The President sent out General J. C. Fremont that year, it is said, to make the road for this emigration, and protect them 1 Letter to H. H. Spalding, March 15, 1868, now in possession of the author. 2 Letter to the author, August 4, 1887. 8 Spalding's "Congressional Pamphlet," p. 22. 228 Marcus Whitman from the Indians ; but while he left the frontier about the same time as the emigrants, he took a different route, and did not arrive at Walla Walla until the 23rd of October, nearly a month after Dr. Whitman's arrival, and two weeks after Governor Burnett's section of the emigration had reached that place. The great Pathfinder found that the path had been opened and protected by the vigilance of our humble mission ary. As far as it is known, the emigrants of that year did not lose a man from hostile Indians. This emigration outnumbered all of the Hudson's Bay Com pany employes and Red River emigrants, and showed our Government that an emigration could reach the Columbia River, so that after that the Americans had no idea of allow ing any of the country south of the present line which divides Washington from British Columbia to fall into the hands of Great Britain. It actually saved the country to the United States. Judge William Strong, in an address before the Oregon Pioneer Society, in 1878, said: "The arrival of the emigra tion of 1843 may be considered the turning point in the history of Oregon. It gave the American population in the Territory control of its civil affairs, attracted the attention and excited the interest of the citizens and public authorities of the United States in this then almost unknown land, and thus contributed materially to the determination of the boundary question. It made Oregon of too great importance to permit diplomacy to trifle it away. It brought the valley a large band of improved horses and cattle. It afforded the settlers the means of mak ing themselves at home in the country, and filled their hearts with hopes of being again surrounded by American citizens." * And Hon. Elwood Evans, in a letter to the writer, says: "We zealously unite in ascribing to that visit the greatest re sults in the future of Oregon ; the grandest services to that large train; the importance that flowed from his successful leading of that train through the Columbia with their wagons. Those results, those conclusions, are glorious to Dr. Whitman's memory." 1 "Transactions Oregon Pioneer Association," 1878, p. 15. The Immigration of 1843 229 This emigration determined which of the two countries should hold the country by right of settlement. Nor did Dr. Whitman's influence cease with the year's emigration. The success of this company in reaching Oregon induced another company to start the next year. Says Mrs. C. S. Pringle, who came in 1844, after speaking of Dr. Whitman's making the route and guiding the emigrants of 1843: "So well known was this fact in the Western States that Whitman and Oregon were the watch-words of the emigration of 1844." So his in fluence goes on down from year to year and from generation to generation, and will be felt on this Northwest Coast as long as time shall last. There at Fort Hall the final victory was won, which re sulted in the United States obtaining possession of a good share, at least, of this Northwest Coast. Previous to 1836, when Dr. Whitman came to the coast, in nearly every contest which the Americans had had with the British subjects, they had been defeated. Several fur companies, among which were the Pa cific Fur Company, with John Jacob Astor at its head; the Missouri Fur Company, the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, Wyeth's Salmon Cannery and Trading Company, Captain Bon neville, and others, had fought the battle with the Hudson's Bay Company and retired in defeat. The v American Society for Encouraging Settlers in the Oregon Territory, with Hall J. Kelly at its head, had lost |30,000 and retired from the field. Astoria, built in 1811, before the Hudson's Bay Company were here, and Fort Hall, built in 1834, by N. J. Wyeth, had fallen into the hands of the enemy. Thus, previous to 1834, every American effort was defeated. In that year Rev. Jason Lee and others crossed the Continent, and though it was not in their first plan, actually began a settlement in the Willamette, which greatly assisted in the final victory. The same year Rev. Samuel Parker began to arouse the Congregational and Presbyterian Churches and the American Board of Commis sioners for Foreign Missions in regard to missions on this Coast, and the next winter found Dr. Whitman and interested him in the work. Then it was that the tide began to turn in favor of the United States. In 1836 when Mrs. Spalding and Mrs. Whitman crossed the Rocky Mountains, the first white 230 Marcus Whitman women who ever did so, it was a victory. When, during the same journey, Dr. Whitman brought the first wagon that ever broke the sage brush from Fort Laramie to Fort Boise, it was another victory. When, four years later, Dr. Robert Newell and company took three wagons to Walla Walla, the enemy was again overcome. When, again, Dr. Whitman made his journey East in 1843, through terrible suffering, and gave such information at Washington that the opinions of the rulers as to the value of the country and the possibility of reaching it with wagons were changed, still another victory was won. But the results of all these would have been well nigh or com pletely lost had Captain Grant at Fort Hall induced the emi gration of 1843 to do as he wished. There was no flourish of trumpets or sound of drums, no rattle of musketry or roar of cannon at that battle. The contest was simply between two men, and was a battle of brains and diplomacy, but the results of it were greater than oftentimes when many thousands have been slain. Each of the parties felt in a measure the responsi bility, and Whitman won. Fort Hall had been built nine years previously by an Ameri can but in the contest between the trading companies it quickly fell into the hands of the British. Now it was the scene of another contest when settlements, not furs, were at stake, and the Americans gained the victory. All that was done after this was simply to gather up the spoils and make the treaty of peace. And when, in 1846, the treaty was signed between Great Britain and the United States, it was simply writing in an official way what had been written "de facto" three years previous at Fort Hall. Says Dr. William Barrows, in his Oregon address: "In later days, when the spirit of war was aroused for the whole of Oregon or war, the question was raised whether it was to be taken under the walls of Quebec or on the Columbia. Neither was the place. Oregon was taken at Fort Hall; for it will be seen that from this time the grand result in the Ore gon case was no longer an open and doubtful issue; only de tails and minor adjustments required attention." Dr. Whitman took the same view of affairs, for he wrote to his wife's father and mother, May 16, 1844: "I did not The Immigration of 1843 231 misjudge as to my duty to return home. The importance of my accompanying the immigration on one hand and the conse quent scarcity of provisions on the other, strongly called for my return, and forbade my bringing another party that year. As I hold the settlement of this country by Americans rather than by an English colony most important, I am happy to have been the means of landing so large an immigration on to the shores of the Columbia, with their wagons, families and stock, in safety." 1 Again, October 18, 1847, about six weeks before his death, he wrote to his Home Board : "Two things, and it is true those which were the most important, were accomplished by my re turn to the States. By means of the establishment of the wagon road, which is due to that effort alone, the emigration was secured and saved from disaster in the fall of 1843. Upon that event the present acquired rights of the United States by her citizens hung. And not less certain is it that upon the results of emigration to this country the present existence of this mission and of Protestantism hung also." And in England the same view has been taken. A writer in the British Colonial Magazine said : "By a strange and un pardonable oversight of the local officers missionaries from the United States were allowed to take religious charge of the population, and these artful men lost no time in introduc ing such a number of their countrymen as reduced the influence of the British settlers to complete insignificance." Says Senator Benton: "So far as the action of the Gov ernment was concerned, it operated to endanger our title to the Columbia, to prevent emigration, and to incur loss of the country." His first reason given was because the question was not settled in 1818; second, because it was not settled in 1828; third, nor in 1842; and fourth, because of the recom mendation of President Tyler, discountenancing emigration to Oregon by withholding the land from emigrants until the two governments should settle the title to the country. This title being thus endangered, "the saving of the country devolved 1 "Oregon Pioneer Transaction," 1893, p. 64. For another letter of similar import see chapter 7, obj. 2, g. dated April 1, 1847. 232 Marcus Whitman upon the people, and they saved it. In 1842 (1843) upwards of a thousand went to the country, and in 1843 (1844) some two thousand more." Hence, Rev. H. H. Spalding was not far from the truth when he wrote that, when the rear of Dr. Whitman's caravan emerged "From the western shades of the Blue Mountains upon the plains of the Columbia, the greatest work was finished ever accomplished by one man for Oregon." Hon. S. A. Clarke adds: "While he was on terms of in timacy and the kindest feeling with Dr. McLoughlin and many others of the British party, it is nevertheless true that he did more to break their prestige than all others combined. They knew and understood his sentiments, and respected him for holding them and living up to them. He was a remarkable man, and only such a man could have sustained such personal relations, and have pursued such an effective policy to over throw British rule. His presence in Oregon at that time was a providence that we may well appreciate who reside in the land that he did so much for ; a land that possesses every gift nature can bestow, and whose people should remember suitably to honor the memory of Marcus Whitman. When the hour came that Oregon needed a champion, he was raised up to enact the part, 'the hour and the man.'" "It is forty years, to this very year, Since the first bold wagon train, With man's deep vow and women's tear, Struggled across the plain. Brave Whitman piloted the way, As on four months they pressed, They pass the plains with summer day, With Autumn gain the West." 1 Soon after reaching his station, he notified the Secretary of War of the safe arrival of the immigration, giving a descrip tion of it, in the letter which accompanied his proposed bill for the action of Congress.' *S. AT Clarke, in "Willamette Farmer," 1883. Benton's "Thirty Years," vol. 2, p. 469. CHAPTER IX. THE WHITMAN CONTROVERSY. The story of Dr. Whitman going East to do what he' could lo save Oregon to the United States, and of what he accom plished while there, both at Washington and with the emigra tion of 1843, was first published in 1864 by Mr. Spalding and .Hon. S. A. Clarke, as already stated, but it was put into more jpermanent form by Dr. C. Eells in the Missionary Herald for December, 1866, by W. H. Gray in his History of Oregon in .1870, and by Rev. H. H. Spalding in 1871, in Executive Docu ment No. 37, 41st Congress, third session. As first published, there were, however, several mistakes, most of which were made by Mr. Spalding, though other writers made one or two or else copied those made by Mr. Spalding. In Executive Document, No. 37, 41st Congress, 3rd Session, .Senate, 1871, pp. 20-22, Mr. Spalding said: "The peculiar «event that aroused Dr. Whitman and sent him through the mountains of New Mexico during that terrible winter of 1843 to Washington, just in time to save this now so valuable -country from being traded off by Webster to the shrewd Eng lishman for a 'cod fishery' down East, was as follows: In 'October, 1842, our mission was called together on business at Waiilatpu, Dr. Whitman's station, and while in session Dr. W. was called to Fort Walla Walla to visit a sick man. While there the brigade for New Caledonia, fifteen bateaux, arrived -at that point on their way up the Columbia, with Indian goods for the New Caledonia or Frazer River country. They were •accompanied by some twenty chief factors, traders and clerks -of the Hudson's Bay Company, and Bishop Demois [Demers], who had crossed the mountains from Canada in 1839 [1838], the first Catholic priest on this coast. Bishop Blanchet came .-at the same time. 234 Marcus Whitman "While this great company were at dinner, an express ar rived from Fort Colville announcing the (to them) glad news that the colony from Red Eiver had passed the Eocky Moun tains, and were near Fort Colville. An exclamation of joy burst from the whole table, at first unaccountable to Dr. Whit man, till a young priest, perhaps not so discreet as the older, and not thinking there was an American at the table, sprang to his feet, and swinging his hand, exclaimed, 'Hurrah for Columbia (Oregon) ! America is too late; we have got the country.' In an instant, as if by instinct, Dr. Whitman saw through the whole plan, clear to Washington, Fort Hall and all (i. e., the stopping of all immigrant and American wagons at Fort Hall by the Hudson's Bay Company every year to that time). He immediately rose from the table, and asked to be excused, sprang upon his horse, and in a very short time stood with his noble 'cayuse' white with foam before his door, and without stopping to dismount, he replied to our anxious in quiries with great decision and earnestness, 'I am going to cross the Eocky Mountains and reach Washington this winter, God carrying me through, and bring out an immigration over the mountains, or the country is lost.' The events soon de veloped that if that whole-souled American missionary was not the 'son of a prophet,' he guessed right when he said 'a deep-laid scheme was about culminating, which would deprive the United States of this Oregon, and it must be broken at once or this country is lost.' On reaching the settlements, Dr. Whitman found that many of the now old Oregonians, Waldo, Applegate, Hamtree, Keyser and others, who had once made calculations to come to Oregon, had abandoned the idea, be cause of the representations from Washington that every at tempt to take wagons and ox teams through the Eocky and Blue Mountains to the Columbia had failed. Dr. Whitman saw at once what the stopping of wagons at Fort Hall every year meant. The representations purported to come from Sec retary Webster, but really from Governor Simpson, who, mag nifying the statements of his chief trader, Grant, at Fort Hall, declared the Americans must be going mad from their repeated fruitless attempts to take wagons and teams through the im passable regions of the Columbia, and that the women and The Whitman Controversy 235 children of those wild fanatic's had been saved from a terrible death only by the repeated and philanthropic labors of Mr. Grant at Fort Hall, in furnishing them with horses. The Doctor told these men as he met them that his only object in crossing the mountains in the dead of winter, at the risk of his life, through untold sufferings, was to take back an Ameri can immigration that summer through the mountains to the Columbia with their wagons and teams. The route was prac ticable. We had taken our cattle and our families through seven years before. They had nothing to fear but to be ready on his return. The stopping of wagons at Fort Hall was a Hudson's Bay Company scheme to prevent the settling of the country by Americans till they could settle it with their own subjects from the Selkirk settlement. This news spread like wildfire through Missouri, as will be seen from Zachary's state ment. The Doctor pushed on to Washington, and immediate ly sought an interview with Secretary Webster — both being from the same state — and stated to him the object of his cross ing the mountains, and laid before him the great importance of Oregon to the United States. But Mr. Webster lay too near Cape Cod to see things in the same light with his fellow states man, who had transferred his worldly interests to the Pacific Coast. He awarded sincerity to the missionary, but could not admit for a moment that the short residence of six years could give the Doctor the knowledge of the country possessed by Gov ernor Simpson, who had almost grown up in the country, and had traveled every part of it, and represents it as one unbroken waste of sand deserts and impassable mountains, fit only for the beaver, the gray bear and the savage. Besides, he had about traded it off with Governor Simpson to go into the Ash burton treaty ( !) for a cod fishery in Newfoundland." Mr. Gray states that this visit was in September, 1842; that the express came from Canada, and adds: "Two hours after this conversation at the Fort, he dismounted from his horse at his door, at Wai-i-lat-pu. I saw in a moment that he was fixed on some important object or errand. He soon explained that a special effort must be made to save the coun try from becoming British territory. ... In twenty-four 236 Marcus Whitman hours time, they (Dr. Whitman and A. L. Lovejoy) were well mounted and on their way to the States." 1 There are plainly six mistakes in these statements. (1) That the taunts and boasts at Fort Walla Walla were the prime cause of the Doctor's going East. This could not have been true, because, as already stated in chapter seven, his going had been approved by vote at the meeting of the mission, September 28. Mistake (2). That these boasts were made because it was there announced that the Red River immigration had just crossed the mountains. This could not have been true, because that immigration- came in 1841 not in 1842. There never was but one such immigration. Among the immigrants were John Flett, Charles McKay, and Henry Buxton, all of whom wrote to the author in 1881, stating that they came in 1841.2 Mr. Spalding's journal of September 10, 1841, in giving an ac count of a journey of himself and family to Fort Colville, says : "Arrived at Colville. Mr. McDonald's brother is here from a party of twenty-three families from the Red River, crossing the mountains to settle on the Cowlitz, as half servants of the company. They started with oxen and carts. The carts are left and they are packing their oxen. There are in all eighty persons [probably counting children]. The man returns to morrow with provisions." 3 In a letter of Dr. Whitman's, also, to the American Board, dated November 18, 1841, he speaks of the same persons being at Fort Walla Walla near that time.4 Mistake (3). The express did not then come from Canada, as the Canadian express came later. Mrs. Whitman remained at their station a few days after the Doctor left, then went to Fort Walla Walla, and then to Vancouver, October 22nd, with the express which had just then come from Canada. Hon. Archibald McKinley, then in charge of Fort Walla Walla, and Dr. Whitman's friend, though English at heart, denies any truth in the whole story, and his statements are entitled to con- 1 Gray's "History of Oregon," p. 288. 2 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," pp. 17, 18. 8 Eells" "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 18. '"Transactions Oregon Pioneer Association," 1891, p. 158. The Whitman Controversy 237 si deration. He says: "No taunt, no toast, no York Factory Express, no New Caledonia boats, no factors, no traders, no clerks, no bishops, no priests, no political discussion, no fishery negotiation, ever heard of at Walla Walla October 2, 1842." While the writer does not intend to question Mr. McKinley's truthfulness, yet, as he says that he did not hear of that story until some time after it was published, more than twenty or perhaps thirty years later, it is possible that he may have for gotten some incident which was the foundation of the story. Something did, probably, occur at the Fort as the foundation for such a story. Dr. C. Eells refers to it in his evidence in chapter seven, saying "it is possible that transpirings at old Fort Walla Walla hastened his departure two days," because Dr. Whit man had left on the third of October and not on the fifth, as had been the plan when Messrs. Walker and Eells left the Doctor's station for their home. P. B. Whitman says: "Mr. McKinley told me that Dr. Whitman made the great ride to rob his people of a vast ter ritory, and that -the Doctor openly declared his purpose before he made the journey, and also that his exceeding zeal caused Ms untimely end."1 In order to settle this point as far as possible, the author Avrote Dr. Geiger, and received the following reply, under date of October 17, 1881: "Your letter just received asking about the taunt to Dr. Whitman. I think there is a misconception in the matter. Dr. Whitman had got information of Mr. Lovejoy and others of the immigration of 1842, that the United States was about to exchange this country for the Newfound land banks fisheries, or a share in them, through the represen tations of the Hudson's Bay Company, that the whole country was a barren waste. But the Doctor, knowing the value of this country (Pacific Coast), went to Fort Walla Walla to find out about it (the proposed trade), and -was informed that that Avas the expectation. (As witness the Red River emigration). He, Dr. Whitman, determined to check the transaction, if pos sible. ... I think the special year of this emigration had nothing more to do with the matter than here represented. I 1 "Oregonian," December 4, 1895. 238 Marcus Whitman can not call to mind any other features of the transaction from any or all of my conversations or writings with Dr. Whitman. But this condition I had so burned into my memory that I cannot forget it." 1 P. B. Whitman gives another explanation — that another immigration was to come the next year and settle in the Yak ima Valley.2 Dr. William Barrows states that Sir George Simpson, Gov ernor-General of the Hudson's Bay Company, had planned for one in 1842, larger than the one of 1841." Mistake (4). That Mr. Webster stated to Dr. Whitman that he had about traded off Oregon for the Newfoundland cod fisheries to go into the Ashburton treaty. This could not have been, as that treaty had been signed in August, 1842. Mistake (5). That Messrs. Applegate, and others who had once intended to come to Oregon, had given up the idea be cause of the representations made in the East by the agents of the Hudson's Bay Company, but that through Dr. Whit man's statements they were induced to come. Mr. Applegate denies this, and says he never saw Dr. Whitman till he over took the immigrants on the Platte. Mistake (6). That the Doctor originated the immigration of 1843. From statements made in the last chapter it is plain that he did not originate, although he did much to promote, increase, and help it to reach Oregon safely.4 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 18. 2 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 18. 2 Barrows' "Oregon," p. 155. * Some allowance ought to be made for Mr. Spalding, although he made these statements. At the time of the Whitman massacre he was on his way from the Umatilla to Dr. Whitman's station. On the road he met a Catholic priest who told him of Dr. Whitman's death, and that the intention of the Indians was to kill him and his family. He turned and fled, and by a round-about way reached his home, after a week's travel, most of the way on foot, and barefoot, followed a part of the way by an Indian who tried to find him and kill him, traveling by night, with almost no food except roots and berries that he obtained on the way, haunted with the fear of the death of his family, knowing that his oldest daughter was at Dr. Whitman's, a captive, or murdered. During this time his sufferings were such that they would have killed many men, and it is not strange that his mind was somewhat unbalanced afterwards on some subjects. The Whitman Controversy 239 It was but natural, when such mistakes as these were made, that Dr. Whitman's enemies should challenge such writers as Governor E. Evans and Mrs. F. F. Victor, who had advocated the story, to produce proofs of their statements. When they found that they could not prove all of their statements, they then went completely to the other extreme, and asserted that Dr. Whitman had no intention of saving Oregon when he started, but went on missionary business; that there was no proof that he went to Washington; that if he went there, he accomplished nothing, and that he did nothing to promote the immigration of 1843. These objections have all been thoroughly discussed in chapter seven. They have constituted what has been called the "Whitman Controversy." 1 Owing to special causes this controversy has had its periods of activity and rest. (a) It was not until about 1880 that these writers began to make their changed views public, although it was known that they had changed their views previous to this time. Mrs. Victor did so in the Californian in 1880, in reply to an article published a short time previous in the same magazine and writ ten by Hon. S. A. Clarke. Mr. Gray answered her in the As torian, and there was considerable correspondence between them. Mr. Gray afterwards gathered his articles into a pamphlet of nineteen pages. Gov. Evans made his change of views public in Seattle, in an address in 1878. This was, however, not published until 1880, when it came out in the North Pacific Coast. In 1881 he wrote a long article for the Seattle Post-Intelligencer, in 1 It has been stated that because these mistakes were made the whole case was destroyed; but the writer has never been able to accept this. If some statements are mistaken, it does not prove that all are mistaken. For instance, several years ago a murder was com mitted at Port Townsend, in the State of Washington, amidst a crowd of people. When the case was tried in court, some of the witnesses testified that the murder occurred before a certain event took place which all saw, and some testified that it was after that event. There was a mistake by some of the witnesses, but that did not prove that there was no murder. So now the fact that some of the witnesses have made mistakes does not prove this story to be a myth. 2 Published April 30, 1881. 240 Marcus Whitman which he took a more extreme position than he had previously done. The author, in collecting materials for a work on In dian Missions, had gathered some information on this subject, and by the advice of friends replied to Gov. Evans.1 As he continually gained more evidence on the subject from his per sonal acquaintance with some of those old pioneers who had known Dr. Whitman, he embodied it in 1883 in a pamphlet of thirty-four pages, entitled "Marcus Whitman, M. D. Proofs of His Work in Saving Oregon to the United States, and in Promoting the Immigration of 1843." In this was embodied testimony, most of which has been quoted in the three previous chapters. (b) In 1884 Dr. William Barrows published his work on "Oregon, the Struggle for Possession." Following Messrs. Spalding and Gray, he incorporated in it their story of what occurred at Fort Walla Walla. This opened the way for again beginning the controversy, and it was carried on, mainly in the Oregonian of Portland, Oregon, in nine long articles, Mrs. Vic tor writing one, and Governor Evans, two, denying the claims made for Dr. Whitman; while in reply Hon. E. C. Ross wrote two, Hon. W. H. Gray one, and Rev. M. Eells three.2 Dr. Thomas Laurie, of Providence, Rhode Island, also wrote two articles in Dr. Whitman's defense, which were published in the Missionary Herald of Boston.3 The article by Mr. Gray, the two by Mr. Ross, and the first two by Mr. Eells, were after wards published in a pamphlet of sixty-eight pages, and those of Dr. Laurie in another pamphlet. (c) In 1895 Dr. O. W. Nixon's book, How Marcus Whit man Saved Oregon, was published, and another period of con troversy followed. Hon. H. W. Scott, editor of the Oregonian, Mrs. F. F. Victor, and Rev. H. H. Hines, D. D., denying the claims made by Dr. Nixon, and Dr. Nixon, Hon. S. A. Clarke, 1 Published in the "Seattle Post-Intelligencer," May 28, 1881. '"Oregonian" of Nov. 7, Dec. 9, Dec. 26, 1884; Jan. 11, Jan. 20, Feb. 8, Feb. 15, March 12, 20, May 21, 1885. " Feb. and Sept., 1895. The Whitman Controversy 241 G. H. Hines, Rev. M. Eells, and P. B. Whitman replying to these attacks.1 •(d) On November 29th and 30th, 1897, the fiftieth anni versary of the Whitman massacre was celebrated at Walla Walla by the dedication of the Whitman monument. Rev. Dr. L. H. Hallock and Rev. Dr. J. R. Wilson delivered the principal addresses.' Professor E. S. Meany and G. H. Hines had pre viously written articles for the Seattle Post-Intelligencer and the Portland Oregonian, preparatory to the dedication. All of these claimed great national benefits to have resulted from Dr. Whitman's work. The addresses were widely published in the Walla Walla Union, Oregonian, Post-Intelligencer, of ap proximate dates, and the Whitman College Quarterly. Rev. M. Flohr denied these claims, and again Rev. M. Eells came to the defense.8 (e) In December, 1900, the controversy was again opened by -Professor E. G. Bourne, who read a paper before the Ameri can Historical Society at its annual meeting at Ann Arbor, Michigan, in which he called the whole story of Dr. Whitman either doing anything or attempting to do anything to save Oregon to the United States a legend; also denying that he had been of any great benefit to the immigration of 1843.4 This called forth a very large number of replies, both East and West. Among these writers were Dr. O. W. Nixon, Dr. W. A. Mowry, President S. B. L. Penrose, Professor W. D. Lyman, Hon. J. W. Fairbanks, and Rev. M. Eells.6 1 "Oregonian" of May 24, June 1, Nov. 21, Nov. 25, 26, and Dec. 4, 1895; "San Francisco Call" Sept. 5 and 8, 1895; "Pacific Christian Advocate," of Portland, Oregon, Oct. 23; "Walla Walla Gazette," Wash., June 1, 1895; "Post-Intelligencer," Seattle, Wash., July 7, 1895, and "Pacific Advance," Seattle, of December. 2 See chapter 14. '"Seattle Post-Intelligencer," Nov. 21, Dec. 7, 1897; Feb. 6, 1898; "Oregonian," Nov. 26, 1897; "Whitman College Quarterly," Dec, 1897, and March, 1898. 4 "American Historical Review," Jan., 1901. '"Chicago Inter-Ocean," Dec. 30, 1900; Jan. 9, 11, 15, 21, 26; Feb. 9, 1901; "Boston Journal of Education," Jan. 24, 1901; "Walla Walla Union," Jan. 20, 1901; "Walla Walla Statesman," Jan. 28, 1901; "Fitchburg (Mass.) Sentinel," Feb. 12, 1901. 242 Marcus Whitman Very many other articles have appeared in various papers east and west at various times, especially in the Boston Con- gregationalist, Chicago Advance, and Chicago Inter-Ocean, in the latter of which Dr. Nixon for very many years annually published an editorial highly commendatory of Dr. Whitman on the anniversary of his death, November 29. Dr. Nixon had come to the Pacific Coast in 1850, was the hero of H. But- terworth's book, the Log Schoolhouse on the Columbia, and from what he heard at that early day was always an ardent admirer of Dr. Whitman's work. To the author it has seemed very singular that those who opposed the claims made for Dr. Whitman have made exceed ingly many mistakes, far more than Mr. Spalding did, and with apparently less excuse; some of them to all appearances knowingly. The following are some of these mistakes : Mrs. Victor says,1 "He (Dr. Whitman) had been six years in the Cayuse country without having benefited or conciliated the Indians." The immigration of 1843 spoke very highly of Istikus, a Christian Cayuse chief, who piloted them through the Blue Mountains, who in the war of 1855-6 furnished our troops with scouts and provisions when most needed, and who rang his bell and called his band together for church as long as he lived. The result of the seed sown by the Doctor is now seen in the Presbyterian Church on the Umatilla Reservation.2 L. W. Hastings, in 1842, said: "He appears to be rendering great service in christianizing and civilizing the natives."* Again Mrs. Victor says: "Admitting that he (Dr. Whitman) feared the treaty of boundary would draw the line in British territory, could he hope to reach Washington before it was concluded?"4 Every good scholar knows that if the Colum bia River had been the line, it would not have left Dr. Whit man's station in British territory, but in the United States; and Mrs. Victor had visited his station previous to the time ^'Oregonian," Nov. 7, 1884. 'Eells' "History of Indian Missions," 64, 237. "Report of Con gregational Association of Oregon and Washington," 1882, p. 18, and "Transactions Oregon Pioneer Association," p. 48. ' Hastings' "Oregon and California," p. 21. 4 "Oregonian," Nov. 7, 1884. The Whitman Controversy 243 she wrote the above. Again she says that in going East the Doctor had a "secret motive" known to Mr. Eells, but not. mentioned at the meeting of September, 1842. Dr. Eells had said that Dr. Whitman had a "cherished object," not a "secret motive." She also charged Dr. Whitman with being "either ignorant and conceited or a falsifier," that he deceived his fellow mis sionaries and Hon. A. McKinley as to reasons for going East, and went in order to obtain an office and enrich himself at the expense of his missionary character; and that because Gov ernor George Simpson was at Vancouver, November 30, 1841 [reaching London, Oct. 29, 1842], he could not have been in Washington by February or March, 1843 ! 1 Gov. Evans said that from 1831 to October 18, 1842, there were no negotiations between Great Britain and the United States,2 while Webster says that Lord Ashburton, with whom he made the treaty of August, 1842, had power to settle all questions between the two countries, and that they considered the Oregon question, but could not come to an agreement, and so omitted it." The Governor added that Webster never at any time partici pated in negotiations on any branch of the Oregon question, and that Lord Ashburton had neither official power nor per sonal discretion on the Oregon question, while Webster said that both had power in regard to this question, and did consult about it. Governor Evans said that no one of the immigration of 1842 had heard of Lord Ashburton's appointment or arrival in the United States before leaving for Oregon, and so could not have given Dr. Whitman any information about him.4 As Edward Everett, our minister at London, had notified our gov ernment, September, 1841, that Lord Ashburton would be sent, and he had arrived at Washington April 4, 1842, forty-two days before the emigration of 1842 left Independence, Mis- 1 "Oregonian," Nov. 7, 1884. "'Oregonian/' March 20, 1885. * "Webster's Works," vol. 6, p. 351. 4 "Oregonian," March 20, 1885. 244 Marcus Whitman souri, on May 16, 1842,1 there was time enough for them to have learned of his arrival. Again Gov. Evans quoted the author as indicating in regard to Dr. Whitman's work for the country that it "was not known or realized till 1866," 2 while the author had only said, "The A. B. C. F. M. did not fully realize or perhaps fully know of this great effort until 1866." Gov. Evans, too, tried hard to prove that no meeting of the Oregon mission was held in the fall of 1842 to approve of Dr. Whitman's going East, while the Missionary Herald, as he admitted, says there was such a meeting; he said that Mr. Gray was not present, but was in the Willamette Valley, while Messrs. Eells and Gray both said that he was present, and Mrs. Whitman's letters proved that he did not move away until October, 1842, though he had himself been to the Willamette during the previous summer to make preparations for moving.' Because Governor A. Ramsey said that he saw Dr. Whitman in Washington in 1843, both Mrs. Victor and Gov. Evans tried to disprove it, the former by saying it must have been Dr. White, the names being similar and the difference in dates but one year;4 while Gov. Evans thought he saw Rev. Jason Lee, as contemporary evidence establishes the fact that he was there during the winter of 1843-4. Contemporary evidence estab lished the fact that Mr. Lee was not in Washington at that date, but was in Oregon and on the Pacific Ocean. He left the Sandwich Islands for the East the 28th of February, 1844, to go by schooner across the Pacific, and then through Mexico, and was in Washington in June, 1844. Gov. Evans also said that according to Dr. Cushing Eells the records of the mission meeting of September, 1842, were de stroyed in the fire which consumed his house in 1872, and he blamed him for not consulting these records before that time.8 Dr. Eells had not said this, but had published that those rec- 1 Hastings' "Oregon and California," p. 6, and "Journal of Medorem Crawford," p. 7. 2 "Oregonian," March 20, 1885. 8 "Oregonian," Dec. 26, 1884. 4 "Oregonian," Nov. 7, 1884. 1 Hines' "History of Oregon," chapter 10. The Whitman Controversy 245 ords were in Dr. Whitman's keeping and disappeared when he was killed in 1847.1 Another class of the Governor's arguments, gleaned from his article, are the following, "false claim," "falsehood," "peti- fogging," "unmitigated falsehood," "glaringly false statement," "venerable gentlemen . . . who have for the once doffed their saintly calling," "so-called reverends," "doughty cham pions," "melange of absurdity, nonsense, fiction, and false hood," "reverend champions of fable," "baseless fabrications," "extravaganza," "wriggling policy of the Eells," "slanders of the dead," "Gulliver, Munchausen and Quixote." 2 Dr. H. H. Hines, too, in order to depreciate Dr. Whitman's influence, especially in bringing his wagon to Fort Boise in 1836, stated that the Rocky Mountain Fur Company in 1829 was the first to bring a wagon across the Eocky Mountains, and also that Captain Bonneville had brought twenty loaded wagons a hundred miles west of the summit in 1832. In order to prove the first statement, he quoted from President Jack son's message of 1831, which said that they brought ten wagons to the head of Wind River where it issues from the Rocky Mountains." As the waters of Wind River flow into the Mis souri, this "proof" has no foundation. Still the friends of Dr. Whitman have steadily acknowledged that wagons had been brought into the Rocky Mountains. Captain Bonneville did so, taking them fifty-five miles west of the summit to Green River, a branch of the Colorado, not of the Columbia. There they stopped. Why? Because of jaded teams? — for their teams, he says, were jaded. This was not the reason, says Bonneville, but because the nature of the country through which he was about to travel rendered it im possible to proceed with wagons. His trouble was to take them farther. Bonneville did not, but Dr. Whitman did take his in 1836 to Fort Boise. Dr. Hines seems to have swung almost around the circle. In The Ladies' Repository for September, 1868, he published an article, in which he claimed that Dr. Whitman accomplished 1 Eells' "Whitman Pamphlet," p. 10. 2 "Oregonian," March 20, 1885. "'Pacific Christian Advocate," October 23, 1895. 246 Marcus Whitman all that his most ardent admirer ever claimed, even to the boasts and taunts at Fort Walla Walla and his influence over Webster and the statement about the Ashburton treaty. By 1895 and 1897 he was disposed to deny that the Doctor went East with any political intent, or accomplished anything while there, or appreciably influenced any emigrants to come that year, or even did much to help the immigration across the plains. In 1899 he praised Dr. Whitman very highly, both as a missionary and patriot, and as a patriotic worker for Oregon in Washington and after he had returned to his station ; only he praised Rev. Jason Lee as having done more in this line, and as having in quite a measure inspired Dr. Whitman to do what he did;1 while in 1901 he spoke of him as "a man of singular intensity of purpose, determination in action, and with the most patriotic devotion to the interests of his country."2 Father Flohr went so far as to say that the government at Washington was better posted on the value of Oregon than Whitman himself, and that the advocates of the myth "have the gall to tell us that the government at Washington was wait ing for Whitman to come to Washington to enlighten them on the Oregon question" (although they had never said it). He called a pamphlet, entitled "A New Chapter From the Acts of the Apostles," by President S. B. L. Penrose of Whitman Col lege, thus entitled "by way of blasphemy." 3 Prof. Bourne, too, in support of his statement that Dr. Whitman's visit neither dispelled ignorance nor inspired en thusiasm about Oregon, brought as proof the statement that "Greenhow's exhaustive history was being distributed as a public document" (in March, 1843), when he himself had said three pages previous that "its preface was written in Feb ruary, 1844," and the book was not published until 1845. He gave as another reason that at the same time "Fremont was under commission to explore the Rockies," when Fremont did not start with his expedition until May 29th of that year, 1 "Missionary History of the Pacific Northwest," chapter 17. 2 "Oregonian," April 7, 1901. '"Post-Intelligencer," Dec. 8, 1897. The Whitman Controversy 247 and did not make his report until 1845. He also said that Dr. E. White was then writing frequent reports to his su periors at Washington as Sub-Indian Agent in Oregon, when not one such report had even left Oregon by April 1, 1843.1 It is very noticeable how much evidence has come to light, since the controversy first began, in favor of the claims made for Dr. Whitman. In May, 1881, the author published his first article on the subject in reply to Gov. Evans. In June, 1881, he learned of Dr. Geiger's knowledge on the subject; in June, 1882, he found new statements made by Hon. A. Hin man and Mrs. M. R. Walker. The next year he obtained Dr. Parker's and Governor Ramsey's statements. Late in 1885, after the first period of controversy had passed, as published in the Oregonian, the letters of Dr. Whitman to the American Board appeared, stating why he went to Washington and what in his opinion he had accomplished; also the statement of Judge Otis and his interview with Dr. Whitman at Buffalo. In 1891 the letter of Dr. Whitman to the Secretary of War was found at Washington, stating that he had been to Washington, together with his proposed bill. In 1898 the statements of Dr. Silas Reed and John Tyler, Jr., appeared. Since the author made his first full statement in his pamph let about Dr. Whitman, and drew his conclusions from the evidence there printed, he has seen no reason to make any es sential change in his position from the evidence furnished, namely, that on account of Dr. Whitman's visit to Washington a part or the whole of Oregon was saved to the United States, and that he did much to promote the immigration of 1843, and led it through with the wagons, to the Columbia River. Still, the author has never claimed that Dr. Whitman alone saved thus much of the country, for he has time and again given the Methodist mission full credit for sending the first missionaries to the Pacific Coast in 1834, for sending earnest petitions to Washington in the thirties and forties, for doing very much to organize the Provisional Government of Oregon 1 "American Historical Review," January, 1901, p. 289. "Fremont's Exploring Expedition," pp. 123, 125, and White's "Thrilling Adven tures," pp. 171, 172. 248 Marcus Whitman (claiming that without the help of the Methodist mission it would not have been organized), for furnishing the flrst United States officer for Oregon, Dr. E. White, and for furnishing the first Governor of Oregon, George Abernethy. CHAPTER X. niFFICDLTIES WITH THE INHIANS. Much has been said about the troubles which existed at different times between Dr. Whitman and the Indians. It has been thought best to speak of these difficulties in a separate chapter, so that it can easily be seen what they were. (a) The first trouble on record was in 1837, and was about the Doctor administering medicine to the sick. It has always been a custom with the Indians when severely sick to call on their medicine men for help. The help thus given is not, how ever, medicine, but incantations and jugglery. The Indians believe that sickness is caused by an evil spirit, which enters the individual. This is sent or shot into him by a bad medi cine man in an invisible manner. Sometimes they believe he can thus shoot a bullet, stone, or poison into the heart of a person and sometimes to send a woodpecker, squirrel, bear, or any treacherous animal to his heart, to eat it, plague him, and make him sick. Then the patient or his friends employ a good medicine man to draw this out, and it is done by incantations, such as pounding on sticks, beating an Indian drum, helloing, singing, and the like. If after the use of all his means the patient dies, the relatives have the right to kill the medicine man, unless he shall give these relatives property enough to satisfy them for the death of their friend. Dr. Whitman en countered this trouble during his first year among the Cayuses, as related in the chapter on Mission Work.1 It does not seem, however, as a general thing, that the In dians considered the Doctor in the light of one of their medi cine men. He afterwards said so to Rev. C. Eells, and added that if they did, it would not be safe for him to remain among them, but he did not believe that they did so consider him. 1 Chapter 4, p. 98. 250 Marcus Whitman (b) Several years previously, probably about 1834, Rev. Jason Lee, while on his way to the Willamette, had received a present of some horses from the Indians. Not knowing the Indian custom, that when such a present is made another of about equal value is expected in return, he had taken the horses but had not given them much, if anything, in return, as he evidently supposed that they were a free gift to help him in his Christian work. But the Indians did not forget it. It is said that they were told by Mr. J. Toupin, interpreter for the Hud son's Bay Company, that Mr. Lee had as good as stolen their horses. After Doctor Whitman's arrival — as he was a white man and a missionary, the same as Mr. Lee — some of the In dians made considerable trouble with him on this subject.1 (c) Another trouble was that at times the Indians de manded pay for the wood, water and land which the Doctor used. In Father Brouillet's pamphlet in regard to the causes of the massacre is a statement by John Toupin, interpreter at Fort Walla Walla, who says that he interpreted for Rev. Sam uel Parker in 1835, and that Mr. Parker promised to send them a missionary who would not take their lands for nothing, but would give them ploughs and hoes, and that a big ship would come every year with goods to be distributed among the In dians. How much of this is true is uncertain. There is no other proof of it, and if anything was said on this subject Mr. Parker probably had reference to treaties by government and annuity goods. Mr. Toupin's statements as given in that pamphlet have not all been found to be reliable. When Dr. Whitman established his station the Indian chiefs promised him the free use of the land, but because of the statements made to the Indians by malicious persons, after a time the Indians did demand pay for their use. The most serious time which the Doctor had because of this was in November, 1841. In a letter to the American Board the Doctor gives the following account of it: "I-a-tin, an Indian, who had been to the Willamette settlement, undertook to embarass Mr. Gray in his building operations, forbidding him to cut timber without pay and others joined him in talking of charg- 1 Hines' "Oregon," p. 183. Difficulties With the Indians 251 ing us for firewood. There has often been talk of causing us to pay for the land we occupy. I-a-tin said he was told while at the Willamette that if any one came on the white man's land, and he refused to go off, he was kicked off.1 "The plantation of this station has been in common with the Indians upon a point of land between two streams ; as soon as our wheat was off the Indians put their horses in, to the great injury of our garden, corn and potatoes. We have been hitherto unable to make fences for the want of timber and strength and time to do it ; now we expect we will be able to do it in the spring, as Mr. Gray is associated with us at this station, by digging a ditch around our fields, which answers the purpose of irrigation also (none of our fields have any fences), as well as that of some of the Indians. "While Mr. Hale, of Boston, who belongs to the U. S. Ex ploring squadron, was here, Til-ka-na-ik, another Indian, was most insolent because, when his horses were eating up our corn, I sent some Indians to catch them. He said I was likely to get the Indians whipped, for if I sent them to catch his horses he should beat them, and added that he put his horses there lest they should stray, for he had no servant, and that was a shut-up place, and that if I had them put out, he would take one of our horses and ride him to hunt for his until he tired him out and then leave him. I then told him that I thought our field was a plantation and not for a horse pen; but if he thought it good to eat up our crops, I had no more to say about it. He then said that this was his land and that he grew up here and that the horses were only eating the growth of the soil, and demanded of me what I had ever given him for his land. I answered 'nothing' and that he might de pend upon it I never would pay him anything. "He then made use of the word 'shame' which is used in Chinook the same as in English and its parallel in Nez Perces. I requested him to wait while I spoke, and then told him of the original arrangement for us to locate here, and that we did not come of ourselves, but by invitation from the Indians, and that the land was fully granted us. Here I left him; but in '"Transactions Oregon Pioneer Association," 1891, pp. 155, 162. 252 Marcus Whitman a short time I was met by one of the chiefs, who said it was troublesome to see those horses eating up the corn. "I then related to him what had just passed with Til-ka- na-ik, and told him I had no intention to remove them. While we were talking Til-ka-na-ik came along, having overheard us, and came up to me and asked me how many times I was going to talk, and struck me twice severely on my breast, and com manded me to stop talking. I told him I had been in the habit of talking from my childhood, and intended to keep on talk ing. This Indian, Til-ka-na-ik, has for the year past been practicing the ceremonies of the Papists. "Following this in order of time was another trial with I-a-tin, the first named Indian. His son had been employed to take care of our horses and cattle, but had been very unfaith ful, having left them for four weeks, causing us to pay him off before his engagement had expired. I asked him how much I was to pay his son; he said just what I pleased. I then gave him the full value of what was agreed upon within five balls and powder, but it did not please him, and only caused him to raise a bitter complaint that he could not obtain justice. I then told him I would exchange some of the articles and give the full value of our first bargain in the things originally prom ised, and that then he would be in debt to me for the four weeks which his son neglected to take care of the cattle, and for the unexpired time yet to be fulfilled in his bargain. I told him, also, that when, on the morning of the same day, I was grind ing his wheat for him, I little thought he would treat me thus. At this he was much displeased and said to one of my family, and also in camp, that he would burn our mill. Mr. Gray is living in our old house, one part of which was in use as a workshop and kitchen. It was much used also as a place to store many small articles and tools, so that no Indians was allowed to go in there. One morning an Indian named Pit-am-an-in-muks-muks went in and seated himself by the fire along with a hired man, the Hawaiian, and an Indian who was there by order to cook for Indians who were laboring. "The woman made complaint to Mr. Gray, and he desired him to go out, but he at once asked if he thought he would steal. Mr. Gray told him many things had been stolen, and if Difficulties With the Indians 253 he allowed one, he must another, and that even if some would not steal, yet if they were admitted, others would follow them, and on that account he wanted no one to come in there. Upon this, he became insolent, and Mr. Gray put him out of the room. He then went at once to the horse pen, and threw his rope upon one of Mr. Gray's horses. Mr. Gray followed him and cut his rope off and put him out of the pen. In the after noon of the same day he came when I was at work and took the same horse in my presence. He was on a horse with an other Indian and others had gathered around. I simply asked him if he made himself a thief how he could cleanse himself. His brother, Sa-ki-aph, said it would be good to kill our cat tle. I told him he had now shown his heart, and if he thought so he could kill them. I then sent to apprise Mr. Gray, who was at work upon his house. We soon saw Til-an-ka-ik, a relative of Pitamaninmukmuk's, with his young men coming toward the house. I requested Mr. Gray not to answer him, but to allow me to do it. He came up to us in the building and began to address Mr. Gray, who took no notice of what he said, and he failed to create any excitement, but ordered Mr. Gray to stop building and remove the next day. I told him it was the Sab bath and he could not go. It seemed strange to him to speak of reverence for the Sabbath at such a time. I then went down from the building and he soon followed me and began to com plain of my taking the part of Mr. Gray, and said if he were to go to our country he should be very careful how he con ducted himself lest he should be sent off. He said again that Mr. Gray was laboring in vain, for he must leave. I told him it was natural for us to labor, and we would not desist although we might labor in vain. I told him, also, that if Indians came into Mr. Gray's or my house and refused to do as we desired, it was right for us to put them out. He then took hold of my ear and pulled it and struck me on the breast, ordering me to hear, as much as to say, we must let them do as they pleased about our houses. When he let go I turned the other to him and he pulled that, and in this way I let him pull first one and then the other until he gave over and took my hat and threw it into the mud. I then called on the Indians who were at work for Mr. Gray to give it to me and I put it on my head, when he 254 Marcus Whitman took it off again and threw it in the same place. Again the Indians gave it to me and I put it on. With more violence he took it off and threw it in the mud and water, of which it dipped plentifully. Once more the Indians gave it back to me and I put it on, all mud as it was, and said to him, 'Per haps you are playing.' At this he left us. A day or two after this McKay, another Indian, made a violent speech and forbade all the Indians to labor for us. "We intended to take no notice of these things, not even to mention them, but the superintendent of Fort Walla Walla, Mr. McKinley, sent up his interpreter to inquire about it as he had heard exciting stories from the Indians. I wrote him all was quiet and we had no concern, but at the same time I gave him the last mentioned case and also told him I feared Joe Gray, a half-breed Iroquois, for a long time a servant of the company, but who was in the camp of the Waiilatpu and Walla Walla Indians from April to September, contributed to cause this excitement, for I was told by an Indian after the affair that Joe Gray had told Til-an-ka-ik while at his camp and fishery that we were rendering the Indians miserable and that we ought to pay for the lands. This Gray is a Romanist and held worship in the forms of that church among the In dians. Mr. McKinley espoused our cause warmly and sent word to the Indians that he felt the insult offered to us as of fered to himself, and that those who conducted themselves so much like dogs would not be permitted to see him with com placency. The interpreter added much to this, according to the Indian's stories. He told them that when Governor Simp son, of the Hudson's Bay Company, heard of the death of Chief Factor Block, who was killed at Thompson's River Fort last winter in his own house by an Indian, he felt that it was not to have his people killed that he sent and had forts built and brought the Indians goods. He at once resolved to come him self and that he had gone past and was now in the lower country. "He pointed to the fact of the company bringing a large number of men into the country, for a large party of settlers, as half servants to the company, were at that time at the fort on their way from the Red River, to settle on the Cowlitz, and Difficulties With the Indians 255 that the company had during the last summer removed a large part of the cattle from the upper country as evidence of a state of readiness to avenge Chief Factor Block's death, and that company were prepared and determined to avenge any other like outrage of the Indians, whether it occurred in one or two or three years, whether it might be here or among any other Indians. This excited them very much, for they did not know how to take it; they felt that they had committed themselves and been compared to dogs. After a meeting among them selves, they came to have a talk with us. Mrs. Whitman came and called me, as I was not in the house at the time, and Mr. Gray and myself came in. They persisted in entering through the kitchen into the dining room, and let in all who presented themselves at their accustomed door. While we were talking, Pa-la-is-ti-wat, an old Indian, commenced threatening Mrs. Whitman at the window with a hammer, in order to force open the door and at the same time Sa-ki-aph, who was in the house, was trying to unlock another door in order to throw open the house. I called on him to stop and also asked the Chief to stop him, but called in vain. I then went and took the key from the door. He went directly into the kitchen removed the fastening and opened the door, but I followed him, and as he opened the door to let others in I put him out, and fastened the door, returned and sat down. Having got the hammer from Pa-la-is-ti-wat, he beat the door, and the others took a large American ax, by which means they broke the kitchen door and a horde of lawless savages took possession of the house. At the same time Sa-ki-aph came in with the hammer and Pa-la-is-ti-wat with the ax to attack us. Mr. Gray met the former and myself the latter and disarmed them. After I got hold of the ax I did not excite myself to take it away until I had waited to see if the chief would speak to restore order, but waited in vain. After I took the ax away he held to my collar and struck me with his fist and tore my clothes. Mrs. Whitman took the ax from me while I was being held by the Indian, and Mr. Gray put both ax and hammer upstairs. Sa- ki-aph soon returned with a club and advanced upon me. As I arose to take the club I dodged the blow he was leveling at me, for which I was greatly ridiculed by them as fearing death. 256 Marcus Whitman While I was telling them I did not fear to die, if I did not partake of the sin of causing my death, Sa-ki-aph came in again with a gun and presented it to me and asked me if I did not fear to die. Our hired men were in the house by this time and one went and stood so as to command the gun. They persisted in saying that because I said I was not afraid to die that it was as though I had challenged them to kill me ; but I told them 'no' I did not challenge them nor did I want to suffer pain ; but still I did not fear to die, as I had just said. At the same time I showed them the consequences of killing us and sending us in advance of themselves into the presence of God. They wanted me to say that we would not shut any of our doors against them, and said if we would do so we would live in peace. We told them that so long as we were allowed to live and occupy our houses we should order our doors, and if they wished to live in peace they must not oppose such regu lations. Til-an-ka-ik now exclaimed that it was impossible to bully us into a fight. Wap-tash-tak-mahl next said that there was property in the house and that they were accustomed to have it given them when they had a difficulty. I told them they would not get the value of a single awl or pin for their bad conduct, and if they wanted property in that way they must steal it. He thought it very hard language. I told them that I felt that this was not an excitement of the moment, but that it was the result of what Joe Gray had told them while on the Grande Ronde River. At first they were disposed to call me to account for my authority, but Wap-tash-tak-mahl arose and said it was true ; he had told them so but had forbid them to tell of it lest he should be blamed. He then related what he had told them. That formerly the whites came on to the Iroquois land, they killed two and drove them off ; after that they killed two more, and then when the whites wanted to buy their land they loved them and said they wanted them for their children, but at last they bought them and gave a great sum of money and after that all lived as brothers. They now broke up and went away, saying they would go and see if Mr. McKinley would call them dogs. We thought but to apprise him of their intention and sent accordingly to the Fort in the night. Difficulties With the Indians 257 "The next day was the Sabbath and it was a sad day to us. Many stayed away from worship and some went to the Fort carrying their arms. Others were insolent and reckless of evil. They did many violent acts such as breaking our windows and troubling our animals. We now felt that we had showed the example of non-resistance as long as it was called for, and as we went to bed we put ourselves in a state of defense, should anything occur at the Fort and the Indians return upon us. We also resolved to go to the Fort and take our families and stay for a time, until we could either arrange to go away or return, as might seem best. "On Monday I received a letter from Mr. McKinley, giving an account of their conduct there, a copy of which I will give you, dated Walla Walla, Oct. 4, 1841 : " 'My Dear Sir : 'I have the pleasure to inform you that there is every prospect of your being allowed to keep peaceful possession of your place and that you will not be further molested by the Indians. (It was rumored that they intended to break into the Fort Sabbath night, which caused them to keep watch and mount all their guns and cannons, and load them with nails, old pieces of iron, etc., to be ready in case they should need them). Rogers would have told you how matters stood when he left. All, however, was quiet during the night. Af ter breakfast, this morning, I sent for the Indians, and when they came into the hall, I told them I wished to know their hearts, and at the same time, tell the state of my own, for, al though I sent for horses the other day, I would not trade one till such times as I knew whether we were to have war or not. That for my own part I did not care which; I dared them to take my fort from me, for that I had a sufficient number of men to protect myself, but that I could not protect you, but if they persisted in doing you harm that I would instantly send to Chief Factor McLoughlin, who would send up a suffi cient number to avenge the whole, and that the plunder of their horses would be sufficient payment for the trouble. That I knew they might kill you before assistance came, but that it afforded me great satisfaction they could not send you to hell. That it is the first time I had heard of Indians in my 258 Marcus Whitman part of the country treating missionaries being obliged to pay for the lands they occupied. I concluded by saying that if they were willing to acknowledge their faults and promise better conduct in future, I was sure you would forgive the past, and that if you did I would do so, also. That spilling of blood was far from my wish, but that it was time we un derstood each other's hearts. Wap-tash-tak-mahl, McKay and Til-an-ka-ik all spoke one after the other. It is unnecessary for me to tell you all that they said at present. Let it suffice, therefore, till we meet that what one and all of them said, ex pressed deep contrition for what had passed, and many prom ises that they conduct themselves well in future. In fact, they spoke most reasonably and acknowledged that they were al together in the wrong. I then told them that I was very willing to blot from my memory their dogly conduct, and that I was sure you would do so likewise. So I think you will find it to the advantage of all concerned to forget and forgive the past. But pray put your face against paying them for their bad conduct. In hopes that you will agree with my plans, I remain your sincere well wisher, ARCHIBALD McKINLEY.' "On Tuesday, the 5th, we called the Indians to hold a talk with them; the result of which was to gain a full acknowl edgment of the first understanding we had with them before the establishment of the mission. This talk was fully inter preted to them by the interpreter at Walla Walla, and I do not know that it could have been more complete in all the re lations required for the station. We told them plainly that unless they were ready to protect us and enforce good order, we would leave them ; that we did not come to fight them, but to teach them. The first agitators were very full in their expressions of sorrow for their conduct, but Wap-tash-tak- mahl, who asked to be paid for their bad conduct and had pretended to be friendly, in the case showed duplicity and how loth he was to relinquish the hope of getting property, as he has also at other times since. A brother of Iich-ish-kais- kais, not at the time at the station, but who soon after ar rived, made a feast at which, as usual on such occasions, sub- Difficulties With the Indians 259 jects of interest were discussed. He then proposed to require of us that we must distribute our cattle among them, or else they would require us to leave. Wap-tash-tak-mahl consented to the same, but Tak-an-ka-ik, who had been the principal agi tator before, entreated them not to do it, assuring them that they should not extort cattle by fear, and desired them not to follow in his bad track, for which he was justly censured by the superintendent at Walla Walla, and incurred the name of a dog. It is said this brought tears into the eyes of Iich- ish-kais-kais, and a promise that he would not mention it again. Ka-mash-pa-hi, another who had arrived since the dis turbance, said he advised all to be still and say no more about causing themselves to be paid for the land, wood, water, etc. He did not think we expected such things when we located on the vacant lands." 1 (d) In 1842, a Nez Perces Indian, who had been at school at Red Eiver, died, and his relatives managed to frighten some Columbia Eiver Indians as being the cause of his death. In order to satisfy them the Eiver Indians gave many horses and much property to some prominent relatives of the deceased. As these relatives passed the Doctor's station on their way home, he tried to show them the wickedness of their conduct, and to induce them to return it. Twelve or fourteen of them gathered at the Doctor's, quite angry, be cause of his plain talk, with a rope, bow and arrows with iron points, and a war club. Mrs. Whitman was present, and after considerable talk and some suspicious actions, which she saw, with the rope and war club, she went out slyly and called in some friends. When they came in the Indians saw that they were foiled, and at last promised to restore all the prop erty they had received.2 It has already been briefly stated that soon after Dr. Whit man left for the East, in October, 1842, one night an Indian entered Mrs. Whitman's house with wicked intentions. Her own account of this in a letter dated October 7th, 1842, to her husband, is as follows: "I got dreadfully frightened last 1 "Transactions Oregon Pioneer Association," 1891, pp. 154, 162. 2 Letter of Mrs. Whitman in "Oregon Pioneer Transactions," 1891, pp. 141, 143. 260 Marcus Whitman night. About midnight I was awakened by some one trying to open my bedroom door. At first I did not know what to understand by it. I raised my head and listened a while, and then lay doAvn again. Soon the latch was raised and the door opened a little. I sprang from the bed in a moment and closed the door again, but the ruffian pushed and I pushed and tried to latch it again, but could not succeed. Finally he gained upon me until he opened the door again, and as I supposed, disengaged his blanket (at the same time I calling John), and ran as if for his life. The east dining room was open. I thought it was locked, but it appeared that it was not. I fastened the door, lit a candle and went to bed, trembling and cold, but could not rest till I had called John [a Hawaiian] to bring his bed and sleep in the kitchen. It was in such a time that I found that he was too far off. Had he persisted I do not know what I should have done. I did not think of the war-club, but I did think of the poker. Thanks be to our Heavenly Father, He mercifully delivered me from the hands of a savage man. Mungo [a Hawaiian] arrived in the night some time, and came in to see me this morning. I told him about the Indian's coming into my room; the first time I spoke of it to any one. Soon after he went to Walla Walla, and left his wife with me. I did not think to write by him. He returned this eve, bringing letters from Mr. McKinley and Brother Gray, who, it seems, is not off yet, urging me to re move immediately to Walla Walla. Mungo told them of my fright last night. It alarmed them very much. Mr. Mc Kinley and wife were coming here tomorrow, and she was going to stay some time with me, but he says he will not do it now, but insists on my removing there immediately. He has told Mungo to stay until he comes on Monday, and tomorrow he sends back the wagon for me to be ready to go on Tuesday. I shall go if I am able. They appear to be so anxious about me. Doubtless it is not safe for me to remain alone any longer. In talking to McKay and Fea'ther Cap today about it, I told them I should leave and go below; I could not stay and be treated so. I told them I came near beating him. "They said it would have been good if I had done so, and laid him flat so that they might have all seen who he was. Difficulties With the Indians 261 Some think there will be no further danger. I think it safe for me to go now, as our friends are so anxious about me, and Mr. McKinley so kindly offers to prepare a room to make me comfortable." ' Dr. E. White says it was an Indian chief who was the mis creant. Accordingly, Mrs. Whitman left her station as here tofore stated. Of it she says : "The Indians did not like my leaving very well — seem to regret the cause. I felt strongly to prefer to stay, if it could be considered prudent, but the care and anxiety were wearing on me too much." She was so unwell as to be obliged to lie down in the wagon most of the way to Walla Walla — twenty-five miles. (f) Soon after she left the grist mill near their house Avas burned. This was a damage to the mission of twelve or fifteen hundred dollars. Mr. McKinley says it was supposed to have been set on fire by the Indians. Of this Mrs. Whit man wrote in a letter to her parents: "This was very af flicting news to me, for all our living came out of the mill, principally, and not only ours at the station, but multitudes in the country in different ways were benefited by it. Prob ably there were more than two hundred bushels of wheat and corn and some flour burned — the mill bolt, threshing mill, even to a part of the waterwheel, were burnt. My poor husband will feel this sadly; so much of his labor lost and so much, too, that saves labor. I think sometimes that if I had not left, perhaps it would not have been burnt; but it will all work for the best for us and for the poor Indians, too. I left a good man there (William Geiger), but he could do nothing alone, as it was set on Are in the night and not discovered until it had made considerable progress. It is pretty difficult to ascertain whether it was the result of design or careless ness. It is said that two boys (and we know them to be of malicious habits) were fishing and threw fire down on the bank of the river, that communicated with the straw. The sensible part of the Cayuses feel the loss deeply, and they will feel it still more when they want their wheat ground. We hope it will be a good lesson to them, and be one means of 1 "Oregon Pioneer Transactions," 1891, p. 163, etc. 262 Marcus Whitman making them a better people. Husband had prepared adobes to surround the mill before he left, but being called away so suddenly, Mr. Spalding engaged to see them put up. He had arriA-ed at Waiilatpu when I left Walla Walla, and com menced work, but was sent for in great haste, as Mrs. Spald ing was taken very sick, and was unable to take care of her self or children. This left the mill unfinished and unpro tected." a In December, 1842, Dr. E. White, U. S. Sub-Indian Agent, met some of the Cayuses, when Feather Cap acknowledged that in his opinion the mill was purposely burnt by some per sons who were disaffected to Dr. Whitman. At that time it Avas expected to hold a council with the Cayuses, but they were scattered and so disaffected that it was not possible. It was, hoAvever, arranged to hold one the next May. This was held ai the appointed time.2 In the meantime there arose a great excitement, which at first began with the Indians of the inter ior of Oregon, as the Walla Walla, Cayuses, Nez Perces and others, but which spread to those in the Willamette Valley. The cause of this was that the Indians feared that the whites were coming to take possession of their lands, of which more will be said hereafter. The excitement was so great that Mrs. Whitman, April 11, 1843 wrote Mrs. Walker : "All the talk is war, war, among the Indians ; that some of the whites in the Willamette wished Dr. White to build a strong fortification in the center of the settlement; and that others wished him to take an armed force to the interior, and if words would not answer, make powder and balls do it." The Doctor, however, preferred more peaceable means, and taking only Eev. G. Hines and one more attendant, with an in terpreter, went first to Mr. Spalding's. Mrs. Whitman and Rev. H. K. W. Perkins joined them at The Dalles. After a pleasant interview with the Nez Perces they returned with Mr. Spalding to Dr. Whitman's station. Chief Ellis and five or six hundred Nez Perces also came. At the first meeting of these, with about three hundred Walla Wallas and Cayuses, "'Oregon Pioneer Transactions," 1891, p. 172. 2 White's "Thrilling Adventures," p. 191. Difficulties With the Indians 263 all mounted in the plain in front of Dr. Whitman's, there was great excitement; so that Chief Ellis said he thought the Cayuses really meant to fight them, and there had been rumors that war was expected between the two tribes ; but Mr. Spald ing's tact as this time in calling them off for worship, calmed them down. Four days were occupied with the council, at which the various matters were discussed and settled. A cow was given them for each horse which had been presented to Rev. J. Lee. Laws similar to those adopted by the Nez Perces the previous winter were adopted by them. Five Crows was elected head chief, and the whole affair was fin ished with a feast, for which Dr. White gave them an ox, he having given them another during the council, while Mrs. Whitman gaAre them a hog. Thus the whole affair ended peaceably, although Dr. McLoughlin strongly advised Dr. White against this course as being dangerous; and the In dians were ready to fight, as they supposed that Dr. White Avas coming with an armed force.1 (g) The land question still, however, continued to trouble the Indians; not that they still demanded pay from the Doctor for the amount that he used, so much as they feared that the Americans were about to take away all that they had. When Dr. Whitman departed in October, 1842, says Rev. G. Hines, with the avowed intention of bringing back with him as many as he could enlist for Oregon, they saw a deep laid scheme of the whites to destroy them, and take possession of their lands. Accordingly, the Nez Perces dispatched one of their chiefs on snowshoes during that winter to visit the Indians in the buf falo country east of Fort Hall for the purpose of exciting them to cut off the immigrants of 1843, but this was happily pre vented. The Cayuses talked freely with Mr. William Geiger, who had charge of Dr. Whitman's station during his absence in the East, and whom they considered their friend, of their fears on the subject. During that winter there was a rumor that the whites in the Willamette intended to march on them with 1 White's "Thrilling Adventures," chapters 9, 20, and Hines' "Ore gon," chapter 9. 264 Marcus Whitman an army, kill them all, and take their land. When they first heard of it, the young men were in favor of immediately march ing to the Willamette and cutting off the whites ; but the older chiefs were in favor of more caution. They thought it best to wait for more information. They often told Mr. Geiger that they did not wish to go to war, but if the Americans should come to conquer them, they would fight so long as they had a drop of blood left. They said that they had obtained their information about the intentions of the Americans from Baptiste Dorio, who was a half-breed, son of Madame Dorio, a heroine of Irving's Astoria, and who understood the Nez Perces well. Mr. Geiger tried to induce them to cultivate the ground, as they had done the year before, but they refused, saying that Baptiste Dorio had told them that it would be of no use, as the Americans would come in the summer, kill them all, and destroy their plantations. Accordingly, they sent Yellow Ser pent, a Walla Walla chief, to Vancouver to consult with Dr. McLoughlin about it. When he returned he said the Doctor had told him that he had nothing to do in a war with the In dians; that he did not believe that the Americans had de signed to attack them and that if they did, the Hudson's Bay Company would not assist them. On learning this from the great Doctor, they became more calm, and many of them began cultivating their patches of ground.1 After Dr. Whitman's return from the East there is no evi dence that any personal violence was used against him until the time of his death. Two or three causes, however, conspired to trouble the Indians, and to make the Doctor feel uneasy at times about his personal safety, and to cause his friends like- Avise to feel uneasy about him. (h) In the fall of 1844 another circumstance occurred which greatly excited the Indians. It was the killing in Cali fornia of Elijah Hedding, a young chief, the son of a promi nent chief of the Walla Walla tribe. A number of the Walla Wallas, Cayuses and Spokanes combined to go to Californa to get more cattle. They obtained them. All went well until in 1 Hines' "History of Oregon," pp. 164, 165. Difficulties With the Indians 265 an excursion for elk and deer skins they met a marauding party of mountain freebooters, fought and conquered them, and took twenty-two horses from them, all of which had previously been stolen from the whites. According to the narrative' of the In dians the Spaniards claimed the horses, and even offered fifteen cows for them, but the chief would not consent to deliver them up, and the negotiations, unhappily, broke off. A day or iavo afterwards, an American saw his mule among the captured animals, and said he would have it. "Will you?" said Elijah Hedding, and stepping into his lodge he immediately loaded his rifle, and coming out, said, "Now go and take your mule." The American, much alarmed, said, "I hope you are not going to kill me." "No," said the young chief; "I am going to kill yonder eagle," which was perched on a neighboring oak. Not liking the appearance, the man left without attempting to take his mule. A day or two afterwards, the Indians walked down to Fort Sutter to church. After service, according to the In dians, Elijah was invited into another apartment, where he Avent, taking with him his uncle, a brave and sensible chief of about forty-five years. While there, unarmed and defenseless, the whites commenced threatening them about things alleged against the Indians of their region, in which none of them had participated, calling them thieves, dogs, and the like. The American then said: "Yesterday you were going to kill me; now you must die," at the same time drawing a pistol. Eli jah, who had been five or six years at the Methodist mission near Salem, and had learned to read, write and speak English, rsaid, "Let me pray a little first," and, kneeling down, began -to do so. While thus engaged, he was shot dead on the spot. Every measure, the Indians said, was taken to cut them all off l>y the Spaniards, who brought out cannon and other firearms and hotly pursued them, but after much suffering all the rest arrived safely at home, leaving the herds they had paid for in California. When they arrived at home all the Indians were much ex-