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YALE
UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

SKETCH of a TOTJ]

ON THE

CONTINENT.

SKETCH of a TOUR
ON THE
CONTINENT,
IN THE YEARS 1786 AND 1787,
B Y
JAMES EDWARD jSMITH, M. D. F. R. S.
MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMIES OF TURIN,
UPSAL, STOCKHOLM, LISBON, &C. &C
PRESIDENT OF THE LINNiEAN SOCIETY. .

IN THREE V O L U M E S.
VOL. III.

" Italy is only a fine well-known academy figure, from which
we all fit down to make drawings, according as the light falb, and
our own feat affords opportunity." Mrs. Pioxxi'i Travels, toI. i. 28S. ,

L 0 ND 0 Ni
1
PRINTED FOS THE AUTHOR, EY J. DAVIS ; SOLD BY
B. AND J. WHITE, FLEET-STREET.
1793.

CONTENTS

O F

VOL. III.

CHAP. XXXV.
"ROM Venice to Padoua, Vicenza, Ve
rona, Mantua, Parma, Piacenza, and
Milan — — — Page I
CHAP. XXXVI.
Milan — Pavia, and from thence to Genoa p. 44
CHAP. XXXVII.
Genoa in return — — p. 80
CHAP-

VI

CONTENTS.

CHAP. XXXVIII.
From Genoa to Turin -<- . — Page 104
CHAP. XXXIX.
From Turin to Mount Cenis — Savoy —
Geneva — — — ¦ p. 126
CHAP. XL.
Glaciers of Savoy — Martighi — Salt Mines
of Bex — Lake of Geneva — Laufanne —
Berne — Grave of Haller — p. 153
CHAP. XLI.
Tomb of Mrs. Langhans — Bafle — Straf-
burgh — Nancy to Paris — p. 176
CHAP. XLII.
Piris in return — — p. 1 80
CHAP. XLIII.
From Paris to Amiens, Boulogne, Dover,.
Canterbury and London . • — p. 227

APPENDIX.

C O N T, E N T S. . vtt
APPENDIX.
Containing an enumeration of guide-books
and local publications, arranged in the
order of the Tour. To which is added,
an account of fome of the general
works on Italy, difpofed in alphabetical
order ; — — Page 241
General works, relating to Italy more efpe-
cially, in alphabetical order Page 263
Index to the Natural Hiftory — Page 289
General Index  Page 313

SKETCH

tl I «

SKETCH of a TOUR

ON THE

CONTINENT.

CHAP. XXXV.
.FROM VENICE TO PADOUA, VICEN£Af
VERONA, MANTUA, PARMA, PIA
CENZA, ' AND MILAN.
i
May 28. ABOUT feven in the morning.
we went on board the public barge for Pa
doua, in company with a young Livonian,
whom we had known at Paris. The paf-
fengers were at leaft fifty in all, moftly of
Vol. III. B «

( 2 )
agreeable appearance ; and although crowded,
we had a very pleafaht voyage. As the
barge was towed by boats through the la-
g uni, fome cuftom-houfe officers came on
board ; but a few pence faved us the trouble
of opening trunks. A young ftudent of
, law amufed the company by reading fome
of the Pucelle d'Orleans in French, and then
•tranflating it, for the benefit of the ladies,
( into Italian, which he did with fo much
readinefs, we thought for fome time he had
a printed veriion in his book. He contrived
to get through moft of.it with great humour,
and no breach of delicacy, at leaft according
to the manners of his country. Whether
this faid reading opened the confidence of
the company more than would otherwife
have been the cafe, I cannot tell j but we
were highly diverted with fome articles of
the fcandalous chronicle of Venice, though,
from the ftyle of relating them, much was,
loft Ion us foreigners.
"We were towed up the Brenta, a pretty
rapid river, by horfes. The banks are oc
cupied by country-houfes and little towns*.
neat enough, and much refembling Holland. Here

( 3 )
Here the noble Venetians have their villas^
many of which are in a great ftyle of mag
nificence, efpecially that of the Procurator
Tron, whofe lady is particularly celebrated
at Venice for her brilliant affembiies, where
flrangers", £tnd particularly the Ehglifh, meet
with the moft flattering attentions.
We dined but indifferently at Dolo. The
waiter, had his hair ornamented with ripe
cherries, a ftyle of decoration more fuitable
for the ringlets of a pretty girl. The peo
ple Of both fexds in this country generally
'ftick flowers in their hair, often with great
tafte. In the afternoon fome of our party ad
journed to the roof of the boat. Paffed
the fuperb Villa Pifani, and about five entered
Padoua, by a gate of an elegant defign, ex-;
cept that the upper part is too heavy. Np
examination here. .
Padoua is a large fcattered town, like an
immenfe village, with much open ground,
and little appearance of bufinefs. Moft ofthe
ftreets are conftru&ed with arcades, as at
Bologna ; but not fo well built. We lodged
at the Stella d'Oro,, no very excellent inn.
' B 2 The

( 4 )
The curiofities of this place are far from
numerous. St. Anthony's church is a fpa-
cious gothic edifice,, not very richly orna
mented ; but furnifhed with many fepulchrai
monuments, for the moft part in a heavy
turgid ftyle ; the Only one in a fine tafte be
ing that of Cardinal Bembo, the architecture
of which is in Palladio's manner, and the.
buft of the Cardinal good. Among other*
appears a monument for the famous learned
Lady Helena Lucretia Cornelia Pifcopia, re
lated to the Cornaro family, who received
the doctoral laurel in this univerfity. She .
died in 16S8, aged thirty-eight. Several
tombs are here fufpended againft the walls,
as at Venice and Pifa. The chapel of St.
Anthony-, richly ornamented with architec
ture and fculpture, has feveral huge lamps
of filver conftantly burning, which, op-
pofing their feeble and ill-coloured rays to
the fplendouf of the noon-tide fun, are but
too ftriking an emblem of the fpirit of tha$
devotion, which feems to evince its ardour
chiefly by fuch worthlefs facrifices, too ofteg,
I fear fubftituted for the incenfe of the heart,
The body of St. Anthony lies in the altar
Here

( 5. )
Here are feveral alto-relievos by Campagna
and others. Oppofite is the more antique
chapel of St. Felix, the fecond pope, whofe
relicks repofe in an altar of porphyry. The
walls are painted in frefco, by Giotto and
his contemporaries. Among other hiftorical
pieces, he has reprefented the Siege of Milan
by the Emperor' Charles IV. - The choir of
this church is handfomely ornamented with
red Verona marble, common in all the build
ings of Padoua/ with a fine candelabrum of
bronze, the work of Crifpo Ariofto. Over
the high altar Hands the bronze crucifix, by
Donatello, mentioned in the Manuel, and
five bther ftatues by the fame fculptor. They
did not appear to me at all worth notice.
Over the Halls are fome bad baflb-relievos
of the fame metal. • A haridfome chapel be
hind the choir contains the tongue of St.
Anthony, that very tongue which preached
to the fifh ; and if it were continually preach-
in^ now, as it hangs, it could not be held in
greater veneration. The Martyrdom of St.
Agatha, by Tiepolo, is far from a good pic
ture ; the colouring too gay, and not natural ;
the faint's head is the beft part.
B 3 , The

( 6 )
The fineft church in Padoua, with refpecl;
to architecture, is St. Giuftina, which Addi-r
fon and common report attribute to Palladio ;
but De la Lande and Profeflbr Martyn men^
tion Andrea Riccio as the archite£t, , The
building is fpacious, and in a very great ftyle,
particularly the great dome, and thofe of the
crofs aifles. ' The roof and walls are of a
plain ftone-colour, but the altars richly
adorned with inlaid flowers and other orna-
ments in pietre dure, very well done, though
many of them already in decay. On one
of the altars ftands a marble group, as large
as life, of our Saviour taken from the Crofs,
'with the Virgin, St. John,. and Mary Mag
dalen ; which has fome merit, though not
much. The latter is a very awkward figure ;
St. John is better. "\o the criticifm in
Cochin and the Manuel, on the high altar-
piece, by Paul Veronefe, I have only to add
that the fky is now totally changed, and be-*
come quite green. The colouring of the
figures in the Glory, efpecially their drapery
is very hard* and bad. Under this altar re-
pofes the body of St. Giuftina, who, it feems, was

( 7 )
was a Padouan faint, and is now the pa-
tronefs of the town.
The Prata della Valle, before this church,
is a thing unique in its kind ; a green oval
enclofure, furrounded with a canal, along
whofe banks are ranged numerous ftatues of
illuftrious men of the country, ftanding on
handfome pedeftals, which are not yet all
occupied ; nor are the intended four bridges
over the canal yet completed. Within this
enclofure the annual fair is held.
The cathedral has little worth feeing.
Giotto's Virgin is kept with great venera
tion, its face covered with gauze. That
of Titian happily is not fo honoured, though
infinitely more wTorthy. Its compofition
and colouring reminded me of Raphael's
fine Holy Family in the Treafury at Loretto.
Hereis Petrarch's portrait among thofe of
other canons of Padoua. If he refembled
jt, Laura's coldnefs feems lefs wonderful.
I fhall not repeat old quotations and con-
troverfies about the fuppofed tomb of Ante-(
nor ; nor the hiftory of the lapis vituperii in
the great public hall, which is one of the
largeft rooms, without columns, in Europe,
B 4 three

( 8 )
three hundred feet by one hundred, an#
contains a meridian line. Its walls are or-.
namented with old bad paintings, .and bufts
of fome illuftrious men, among others Livy ;
all which have been defcribed over and over-
again. The building of the Univerfity is of a
fquare form, with a court in the centre, fur^
rounded with arcades, in a good ftyle ; de-*
figned by Palladio, or, according to fome,
by Sanfovino. Its walls are covered with coate
of arms, and names- of thofe who have taken
degrees here, among whom we found feve?!
,ral Englifh and Scotch.. The anatomy fchool
is the worft I ever faw ; very fmall, and fo
dark that, incredible as it may feem, the
lectures are always given by torch-light, the
ftudents being arranged in galleries one above
another as in the operation-room at Edin
burgh, but much more perpendicular, fo ,
that the whole is like a chimney ; and the
ftudents rnuft be delicioufly fumigated with
the fmoke of the torches, and the fteams qf
the body on the table.
The Botanic Garden, one of the beft I
have-feen in Italy, contains many uncomr- mon.

I 9 }
pion plants, though we obferved nothing
#bfolutely new. Many things grow here
in a ftate of luxuriance unknown in our
climate. Bignonia tetraphylla, now full of
flowers, covered a large wall in the open
air with its beautiful feftoons, and Sterculia
platanifolia^ a tree thirty feet high, has
fometimes ripened its fruit' here. Profeffor
Marfigli was from home ; but the gardener
gave me feeds of the Sterculia.
We had letters to the celebrated Mr. Ar-*
jduino, formerly profeffor of botany, but
rjow of agriculture. From him the Arduina
was named ; and he fent LinnSeus thofe rare
Brafil plants, chiefly deferibed in the Man*
tifia, and by himfelf in his fecond Specimen
Animadverfionum Botaiticarum, He told
me they were gathered by Father Panegai^
#n aftronomer.
Profeffor Arduino is a great maker of ex*
periments relative to agriculture and ceco-
nomical objects. He fhewed us. thread
made of the bark of Palma Chrifii, Ricinus
communis, and very good thread, with ftrong
cloth, from the fame part of Afckpias fruti-*
6 fofa,

( io ),
o
fofa, with another kind of cloth made of
the down of its feeds, carded, and fpun,
which his fons ufed to wear for clothing,
and which he affured us was very ftrong.
It looks and feels like tolerably fine woollen
cloth. I obferved, with furprife, that it was
moth-eaten, which Mr. Arduino attributed
to its being dreffed with oil. This Afclepias
grows without any trouble in Italy, though
a Cape plant, and produces abundance of
feed. He alfo fhewed us good fugar and
treacle procured from Holcus Cafer, defcri-
bed and figured by himfelf, among other
fpecies, in a differtation on that genus.
Surely the large Hold would be worth cul
tivating in Europe for fugar. They are
annuals of quick growth, and very large
bulk, abounding with faccharine juice as
much as th® fugar-cane, at leaft in Italy.
The profeffor has invented a machine for
lowing feed, of the merits of which I do not
prefume to judge.
Dr. Gailini, Profeffor of the Theory of
Medicine in this Univerfity, feemed well in
formed concerning the neweft medical pub
lications and difcoveries. He is faid to be
the.

( II )
the author of a Venetian Medical Journal, in
which haying fpoken rather flightly of Dr,
Mafcagni's difcoveries at Sienna, he received
a fort of indignant letter from Mafcagni.
Writers of critical publications muft never
expect to fatisfy every author, even by im.
difcriminate praife, much lefs by cenfure,
efpecially if it be merited, I had heard
much of an author of the name of Rofa,
who wrote againft the circulation of the
blood a few years fince ; and I now, for the
firft time, learned that he is Profeffor of the
Theory of Medicine at Modena, an inge
nious man, who, from a thirft for celebrity,
undertook to invalidate the grounds upon
which the Harveian doctrine is built. His
opinions were publifhed in» five letters, now
very rare ; and having never' feen them, I
can be no judge of their ingenuity, which
is their only poflible merit. Dr. Gallini in
formed us, that intermittent fevers are fre
quent at Venice in Auguft, as well as about
Padoua; alfo a very fevere kind, which
proves fatal in the fecond fit, if not flopped
by great dofes bf bark, with a purge. The
Jaft-mentioned circumftance is curious. I
remember

( 12 )
remember the St. Lucia bark, Cinchona flori-
bunda, when tried a few years fince at St.
Bartholomew's Hofpital, ufed frequently to
prove emetic, but cured the ague neverthe-
Jefs. ¦ The collection of Natural Hiftory at the
College here was made by Valifneri, and
has not fince been augmented. It is faid to
be very poor ; we did not fee it.
This evening it rained violently, with fine
zigzag lightning, as reprefented in pictures.
The feafon feemed not at all more advanced
here than commonly in England at the fame
period. May 30. Left Padoua in a voiture of four
places, and had a* p*leafant morning's ride to
Vicenza, where, at the Due Rote, we met
with good accommodation and great civility 5
and foUnd a fplendid memorial, juft erected,
of the Duke of Buccleugh's having lately
been entertained there.
Vicenza is a fmall city, abounding , in
palaces built by Palladio, which contribute
much to its beauty, and are the chief objects,
of a ftranger's curiofity. Every one is wor-» thy

( 13 )
thy of notice; fome extremely elegant.
Palazzo Tiene is fingular for having each of
its windows narrower at top than at bottom,
each fide floping inwards perhaps three
inches ; the reafon of which I cannot guefs,
unlefs the architect confidered the narrow-
nefs of the ftreet, and meant to give them a
kind of perfpective ; but whatever might be
his intention, the effect is bad.
The Palazzo Publico della Ragione is no:
Iefs elegant than magnificent ; but the moft
curious of all the buildings here is the cele
brated Teatro Olympico, ; now ufed for
mafquerades and balls only, for which it
feems fcarcely large enough. This jewel of
architecture gives a good idea of the theatres
of the ancients, which it was meant to imi
tate. The arena is a femicircle, notfpacious,
above which rife the feats for the fpectators,
exactly like thofe at Nifmcs ; and the upper
feat is crowned with a femicircular colonnade,
with many ftatues, above which is a gallery.
On the oppofite fide of the arena is. the
ftage, as in our theatres, raifed about five
feet, and in the place of the fcene a very
noble piece of architecture, decorated with
many

( H )
many ftatues, perhaps rather too many. Iii
this are three great apertures, prefenting
three ftreets, reprefented by models of build
ings, diminilhed according to the rules of
perfpective, which look well Only from the
centre of the lower feats of the amphitheatre^
and from every other point of view appear
diftoftedj painted fceries are better. The
ftatues are of plafter only. Adjoining is a.
handfome faloon. The whole belongs to
the Academy of Belles Lettres, who call
themfelves Olympici.
*The triumphal arch at the Campo di
Mar'te did riot pleafe us at all ; it is of -the-
Doric order, with ruftic intermixed.
We went to the church of Sk Corona, on
purpofe to fee the Adoration of the Magi,
by Paul Veronefe, and thought our pains
Well beftowed. The compofition much re-'
fembles that in St. Silvefter's at Venice, but
wants the figure which ¦ I there fuppofed to
be a portrait. The drapery and colouring
are admirable ; the Virgin's head pleafing,
and very graceful. Little Jefus feems to be
about to weep. The fame church contains
a. picture by Bellino, and one by Mantegna* both

( 15 )
both worth looking at. The cathedral ha§
nothing particular about it.
May 31. We left this pretty town at fix
in the morning, in the fame voiture, for
Verona, thirty miles diftant. The road very
flat, and in fome places overflowed. It
makes a great curve round the bafe of that
chain of mountains crowned by Monte
Baldo, fo celebrated by Italian botanifts ;
but whofe top was now covered with fnow, as
well as the neighbouring much lefs elevated
hills, fo that we were reluctantly obliged to.
give up the thoughts of exploring it. Dined
poorly at an inn feventeen miles from Vi
cenza. The country is a moft fertile plain,
with fine fwelling hills beyond; in fome
parts producing corn, in others laid out in
paftures, bordered with white mulberry trees,
and vines hanging about them in luxuriant
feftoons. The principal plants we noticed
among the corn,, were the beautiful purple
.Cow-wheat, Melampyrum arvenfe; Corn flag,
Gladiolus communis, which, is one of their
moft troublefome weeds ; Adonis ajlivalis,
Lathyrus . Aphaca, and Coriandrum tefticula- tum ;

( 16 J
turn ; the latter, when bmifed, fmelling like!
the flowers of Hydcihihtis racemofus, or like
ftarch. Entered Verona about fix, without any
examination. The red Verona marble, al
ready fo often mentioned, every where pre-
fents itfelf in pofts, bridges, &c. The
town is large, and of handfome appearance,
efpecially when feen from the bridge over
the Adige, in the middle of the city.
June i . Provided as ufual with a guide,
we began our perambulations,- firft examin
ing the Palazzo del Podefta, or town-houfer
an old irregular building, whofe walls are
covered with bufts and coats of arms, in
ftone, of numbers of great men who have
formerly deferved well of the country. AH
the infcriptions of thefe monuments have
been erafed, the reafon of which we enquir
ed in vain. Poffibly it was done when the
Venetians became mafters of the town : if
fo, I was inclined to think, by the leave of
thofe fapient politicians, their proceeding
rather injudicious ; for one would imagine
the dumb eloquence of thefe erafures more
galling

( *7 )
galling to a manly fpiritj and more likely to
ftir up the noble rage of the foul, than any
infcriptions whatever; But perhaps the
conquerors have judged) that although fuch
might be the cafe with the then prefent
generation, following ones would find lefs
food for reflection in thefe blanks, than in
a fignificant infeription, and I do not doubt
their being in the right.
Oppofite to this edifice, at the corner of
a ftreet, one cannot avoid remarking a fmall
piece of ground, enclbfed with a marble
wall and iron rails, occupied by feveral very
ancient tombs of the Scaligeri, formerly
lords of Verona* Two of thefe maufoleums
are very fuperbly conftructedj being a kind
of lofty gothic temples, or canopies, at whofe
corners are ftatues, and a farcophagus raifed
high in the middle of each, enclofing the
bodies. At St. George's church are two celebrated
performances of Paul Veronefe. That over
the high altar^ St. George's Martyrdom, is
the beft ; the other has more of the peculiar
manner of this rnafter. The faint is repre-
Vol. III. C fented

• t Iff )
fented refufirig to worfhip idols, and his ex-'
preflion is good.
The cathedral, a gloomy gothic pile, pof-
feiTCs nothing worth going to fee, except
Titian's Affumption of the Virgin, and that
is a dark dirty picture,, with little to recom
mend it. The Manuel praifes it quite
enough. I cannot help obferving how much
'this fubject has been multiplied by painters.
For one affumption of Chrift, we find twenty
of the Virgin, and fifty miracles of- pre
tended faints for one of the authentic events
of fqripture. The reafon of this is not dif
ficult to difcover. It is expedient to imprefs
molt on the minds of the people,, thofe
legends whofe hiftorical evidence is the
weakeft ; more efpecially if they tend to
fupport what fcripture and reafon do not
authorize. How' majeftically does the Amphitheatre
of Verona exalt itfelf in the centre of the
town, above all the furrounding works of
modern days ! On approaching this vene
rable fabrick, we admire it as a ruin, like the
Coloffeo at Rome ; for of the outer wall
fcarcelv

( *9 )
fcarcely any thing remains. But when we'
find ourfelves in the area, with the feats
riling around to the very top, abfolutely per
fect and entire, we almolt forget that it is
not ftill in ufe, arid that thefe fine marble
fteps have braved the inclemency of 1706
feafons. De la Lande calculates twenty-two
thoufarid people might conveniently fit in
this theatre, and that it held even a greater
number when the Pope paffed through Ve
rona irt 1782. The Emperor Jofeph II:
was entertained here with a bull-fight in
1 769. The ranges of feats are forty-five, but
it appears there have been confiderably more^
the uppermoft being ruined. De la Lande
fuppofes the building was never completed;
Here we gathered Potentilla grandiflorti;
Melica cilia'ta, and fome other plants which
had riot yet occurred in our journey ; and,
frorii the top enjoyed a pretty complete view
bf the, town* with the fine furrounding
country^ crowned by the fnow-clad fummits
bf Mount Baldus.
Porta dei Borfari, faid to have been a
triumphal arch of the Emperor Gallienus$
is of an unufual forni, being two equal arches
C'a ty

( 20 )
by the fide of each other. Its ftyle is feeble
and degenerate, as becomes a triumphal arch
of Gallienu6.
The Theatre defigned by Palladio dif-
plays his fine tafte, efpecially the Ionic por
tico. Adjoining is a collection of antique
infcriptions and fculptures made by the late
Marquis Scipio Maffei. I noted, a Greek
codicil to a will on red porphyry, and a
little bit of fculpture, of doubtful antiquity,
in a kind of porphyry I never faw before ;
like the common red, but with very diftinct
white fpots, and yellow ones intermixed.
They call it here Egyptian granite. The
collection contains nothing very remarkable.
The Caftel Vecchio, a gothic building con-
ftructed and inhabited by one of the Scaligers
in the middle of the fourteenth century, has
a gothic bridge adjoining, whofe central arch
i§ very wide, and, if I remember right, there
are four arches befides, all femicircular.
San Micheli's famous Porta del Pallio is;
fimply a range of four or five arches, with
intermediate Doric columns, and a cornice,
nb pediment. I muft ingenuoufly confefs
we could not difcover its extraordinary per
fection.

{ 21 )
fection. Its fimplicity is undoubtedly beau
tiful, and the defign faultlefs ; but the cha
racter is like that of a Venetian picture,
wanting both the great fublimity of Michael
Angelo, and the refined elegance of Raphael.
The building of the fair, or the Dogana, by
the fame architect has a very elegant colon
nade at the extremity of the court. Not far
diftant ftands a palace, likewife defigned by
him. He feems to have been much averfe
to pediments.
An apothecary of this town poffeffes a
very extenfive collection of fifh in fand-
ftone, like thofe of Mr. Seguier at Nifmes.
He faid the Emprefs of Ruflia was then in
treaty for the whole, and that he had fent
her a catalogue. We purchafed two or
three little fpecimens not catalogued. That
fo much talked of, in which pne fifh appears
to have been petrified in the act of fwallow-
ing another, is not conclufive to me; or
rather, I am perfuaded, it is a deception,
though as the two fkeletons happen to lie,
they have that appearance.
Near the theatre we found one of the
prettieft,and indeed moft magnificent, coffee*
C 3 houfes

( 22 )
houfes in Italy, and pleafantly fituated. The
town in general is rather fpacious and airy
than other wife.
jfum 2. Our Li vonian friend, Mr.Liljen-:
feldt, was inclined to go the neareft way to
Milan ; we could not think of . miffing
Mantua, Parma, a*nd Piacenza, and therefore
here took leave of him. Mantua is twenty-
five miles from Verona : the road flat. The
country reminded me of fome of the Effex
part of the road from Newmarket to Lon
don ; but we could have fpared fome decor
rations, which pur own heretical country
happily does not know, feveral ftone croffes
where people had been affaflinated, one fo
lately as the preceding January.
On' entering the Mantuan territories, our
trunks were flightly vifited, and, at our de-
fire, feakd up to prevent trouble at ^ny cf
the following doganas; but this is of little
Confequence, as the pilfering officers may
vifit, if they pleafe, not with ftanding the feals,
and generally look for a trifling gratification
if they do not. We have found the Impe
rial dominions, and efpecially the Milanefe, beft

( 23 )
beft regulated in this refpect. The officers
there are generally civil, and neither impofe
upon travellers, nor trouble them unneceffa-
rily. Petty princes, like the Duke of Parma,
and their fervants, have little elfe to do than
to bufy themfelves about fuch matters, and
their formalities are endlefs.
Mantua is more v. famous and more re
markable as the birth-place of Virgil, who
was born at leaft in its neighbourhood, than
for any thing elfe: Few towns are more
fingulariy fituated, as it is environed with
much more water than dry land, and the
fortifications are very ftrong. The approach
from Verona is through feven or eight gates
along a caufeway. The lake, however beau
tiful an object, muft furely render the town
unhealthy. It was now the time of the
fair,held in a circular building like St. Mark's ;
but after that, this Marituan. fair had not
charms fufheient to detain us. - Whether we
were in a fit of ennui I cannot tell ; but the
town feemed uncommonly dull. We looked
into the large church of St. Andrew, which
is in a good ftyle of architecture, but co?
yered with paltry painted decorations. An
C 4 infeription

( 24 )
infcription informed us that fome of Chrift'a
blood was preferved there, which, as has
been faid by the reputed eleven hundred
rooms in the Vatican, we had rather believe
than examine. The cathedral was fhut.
The ' Ducal palace, fpoiled of its former
riches, is faid to have little to tempt a ftranger
to walk through its deferted apartments ;
nor did we vifit it. After a bad maigre din
ner, we found a voiturin to conduct us to
Parma for three fequins.
Arriving at Borgo forte on the banks of
the Po, croffed that river in a large ferry
boat. The banks abound with Lombardy
Poplars, defcendants, no doubt, of Phaeton's
fifters. We journeyed along in the cool of
the evening, ftill
"  rJPhaetontea fub umbra,"

and reached Guaftalla in the Duke of Parma's
dominions, where a traveller is very decently
accommodated. The road hither was chiefly
along a bank, the country' very low, almofl
overflowed ; but richly planted with white
mulberries^ vines, and corn,
Jum

( 25 )
June 3. (Sunday.) The road lay along a
bank as yefterday. The foil being clay,
muft be extremely bad in rainy weather ;
probably the very counterpart of that delect
able caufeway between Bologna and Ferrara.
In the environs of the little town of Brefullo
we met numbers of ruftic beaux and belles;
the former with the crowns of their hats
encircled with real or artificial flowers, and
the women with remarkably fmall round
ftraw hats, not fo broad as a plate, fome bf
them ridiculoufly loaded with trumpery
finery. Thefe hats being quite infufficient
to fcreen their faces from the burning fun,
moft of thefe ladies difplayed their fans with
an air of much coquetry, to guard com
plexions already like thofe of the moft tawny
country man in England. Thefe peafants
appear cheerful, as Lady Miller obferves,
and not poor ; their countenances are fenfi-
ble and agreeable ; but I could not, agree with
her ladyfhip in admiring the tafte of their
drefs, tb.ough very much in the ftyle of
opera fhepherds and fhepherdeffes.
The road improved towards Parma. The
country on each fide is extremely rich and
beautiful,

¦( 26 )
beautiful, crowded with vines intermixed
with corn. The chain of Apennines be
tween Bologna and Florence, bounds the pro-
fpecTrpn the left, and their tops covered with
everlafting fnow, are a majeftic termination
ofthe landfcape. Their effect was peculiarly
ftriking in the afternoon from the bridge of
Parma, when the parts unoccupied by fnow
had acquired the purple evening tinge.
Parma is a very handfome neat town ;
the ftreets well built and fpacious,, efpecially
the principal one. I have feen few places of
a more agreeable afpect, not even Turin.
Numbers . of officers and abbes, lounging
about the ftreets and coffee-houfes, do not
tempt one to a permanent refidence there, ,
Here we began to experience fornething
like heat, not however fufficient to impede
our routine of .bufinefs. , We had letters to
Father Affb, firft librarian to the royal' pub
lic library, and found him at the Convent
of the Annunciata, fitting in his own little
library, in the drefs of a Francifcan. He
received us very kindly, and with great af-r
jability. His countenance and manners
were by no means thofe pf a mortified friar,
though

( 27 )
though Dr. Younge made an entomological
remark upon his drefs, which happily efcaped
me, to be attributed, 'no doubt, to the odious
difufe of linen, which thefe monks think a
part of their duty. However fimple.^this
good Father might be in his own apparel,
his library was elegant and neat, moft of the
books being finely bound. His favourite
ftudy is hiftory, in which he has eminently
•diftinguifhed himfelf, particularly by a hif
tory of Guaftalla in three volumes 4to. and
memoirs of feveral eminent men of his
country, Parmiggianino among others.
In the convent is a picture by that cele
brated painter in his early manner, more cu
rious for fhewing the progrefs of his ftyle,
than fpr any very eminent merit ; there are
great faults in the drawing. The church of
this convent, of an oval form, with a very-
bold arched roof, contains an Annunciation
pf Corregio, much impaired ; but the heads
of the Virgin and Angel. are both admirable ;
far fuperior in grace and propriety of ex-
preffion to moft I have feen.
The church of the Capucini is the burial-
place ofthe famous Alexander Farnefe, whofe tomb-

( 28 )
tomb-ftone is in the middle of the nave.
He was interred in the habit of a capuchin.
Such a piece of mummery, or any other
fign of fuperftitious horror at the approach
of death, might have become the more bloody
flaves of the butcher of Europe, Philip II.
fuch as the Duke of Alva ; Alexander Far-
nefe rriuft have had great latent faults and
weakneffes in his character to have been ca-
pable of it. The altar-piece, by Annibal
Carracci, reprefents a dead Chrift, with the
Virgin fainting in the arms of angels, and
St. Francis fhewing his ftigmata in an exult
ing mariner before the dead body. The
thought is fingular, and the picture, on the
whole, not agreeable.
• The Madonna della Steccata, a dark church
in itfelf, was now rendered more fo by fome
red curtains, it being Trinity Sunday, fo
that we could hardly fee the famous fpirited
painting, by Parmiggianino, of Mofes break
ing the Tables, which, however, is well
known by the print;
Atthe cathedral the principal curiofity is
the cupola, painted by Corregio ; but it is
fo high, and has fuffered fo much, we could
make

( 29 )
make nothing of it, and were abfolutely
unable to underftand the defign, nothing-
being difcernible, except fome very finely
drawn figures boldly forefhortened, which
made us the more regret the injuries time
has done to this celebrated performance, ori
ginally an Affumption of the Virgin, who.
is, indeed, now quite removed from mortal
fight. The other celebrated cupola of the fame
painter, at St. John the Evangelift's, is fcarcely.
more diftinguiihable, being, though in better
prefervation, very ill lighted. I do not pre-
fume to criticife thefe productions. A figure
of St. John, likewife by Corregio, on the
wall over the door of the facrifty, was much
more within reach of my comprehenfion, as
well as of my vifual organs. Nothing can
be more beautiful or more fublime than this
head ; the hands and arms are not equally
gpod. Two other pictures of the fame
artift, mentioned by Cochin and the Manuel,
difappointed us.
At St. Sepolchro we were exceffively
charmed with the Madonna della Scodella,
the firft work of Cbrregio's that anfwered
my

I 3® }
my expectations; I wonder Cochin layS
" la couleur n'eft pas bien forte." We
thought it remarkably rich and brilliant, and
the chiar' ofcuro very good, with all the'
clear foftnefs of this mafter. The Virgin's
head is charming. She prefects a difh', Sco-
della, to St. John, who is filling it with water 5
not ivdrrrt water, like Cupid in Angelica
Kauffman's fuppofed picture, in that droll
pamphjet the Anticipation ofthe Exhibition.
Jofeph is gathering dates and giving them
to the infant Jefus, whofe figure is very en
gaging- The public walks here are not ftriking*
We fa w the Duchefs in . her coach in the
ftreet : fhe feemed a majeflic figure, and af»
fumed an air of ftatelinefs bordering on the
ridiculous, as if fhe was afraid of being fup
pofed to fee, much lefs to be pleafed with,
the genuflections of the people as fhe paffed*
I could name fovereigns who fecure the
hearts as well as the refpect of their fubjects^
by a different and more natural demeanour*
As to mere majefty of carriage, without
much winning fweetnefs, the unforttinate
Qtieen of France poffeffed it in a fuperiof
5 degree"

..£ 3i- )
degree to any human being I ever faw. She
might be known frOm all her court, like
Calypfo among her nymphs.
June 4. We attended Father Affb, by
appointment, to the public library, eftablifh-
ed by the fovereign within thefe twenty
years, and open' to every body who choofes
to ftudy there. The principal .room is a
fine gallery ; the more rare books being in
lefler apartments adjoining.
Here we faw the fame edition of Apollo
nius Rhodius, as at Venice. Henry VHIth's
book in defence of the church. Hypnbro-,
tomachia Poliphili, in Latin, date 1499, and
one of the French editions of the fame
(Songe de Poliphile) with the fine wooden
cuts, faid to have been defigned by Raphael
or his fcholars. The author of this famous
and finguiar book was Francis Colonna,
a Dominican friar at £tome. We were alfo
fhewn a book of law, by Lanfranc, printed
by Francefco de Silva at Turin, 1497. ^"
bertus Magnus de Animalibus, Venice, 1495.
Six rare editions of Pliny's Natural Hiftory,
viz, Romce, in ad, Maximorum, 1470: by
Jen/on,

t 3* )
Jetlfon, 1^72 : P armee, §teph. Coralio,i^y,6i
P armee, 1480: P armee, 1481:, Brixia ^
1496. Hermolai Barbari Caftigationes iri
Plinium, 1495. A book, whether in Latta
or Italian I forget, relating to the interment
of St. Francis Xavier, printed in China on
Chinefe paper, with wooden blocks made in
that country. Alfo a fuperb Chinefe book,
printed with gold characters on blue paper*
A fine Homer, printed at Florence very
early. Ariftotle, by Aldus, extremely rare*
A botanical manufcript in French, three vo
lumes folio, with rude coloured drawings of
plants, the work of Jacques Reboul, a phy«-
fician of Provence,, who, having loft his
eye-fight before this book was finifhed, com
pleted feveral chapters afterwards with his
own hand. They have here the <Hortus
Malabaricus, Salvianus de Pifcibus ; but none
of Jacquin's works, nor any rare ones of
Linnaeus. The richeft part of this library
are the hiftorical books. Father Affd, being
the firft librarian, is particularly attentive tb
all publications on hiftory.
Some trifling antiquities found at Velleia,
are kept in a room adjoining, and travellers are

( 33 )
hie fhewn a fmall bronze medal, which pre
tends to have been ftruck at Ithaca, and the
head upon it is, bf courfe, fuppofed to be a
portrait of Ulyffes— few people probably
will believe that Ulyffes "fat for it, and even
the perfon wlio fhewed us the collection
acknowledged this medal had no pretenfions
to authenticity.
The great Theatre, fo juftly celebrated for
its fize and the magnificence of its defign^
is riow difufed, and falling into decay, the
•decorations being all wood. It is too large.
for the town, and the expence of lighting it up
is fo confiderable, that there has fcarcely been
a theatrical exhibition here thefe fifty years j
nor is this noble edifice of any ufe, except
very rarely for a mafquerade, or fomething
bf that kind, on great feftivals. There are
pipes and machines for filling the pit with
water for naval exhibitions ; but this has nbt
been practifed firtce the time of the Farnefe
family, who built the theatre; It is feen to
great difadvantage by day, arid one feels, as
Lady Miller remarks, as if under ground in
avail deep and dark mine ; but any great
theatre has the fame effect when not lighted
Vol. III. -D - up,

( 34 )
up, and I can conceive this, with its full a?*-
chitectural decorations all in due proportion,
would, if clean, well illuminated, and filled
with company, be extremely magnificent ;
nor can any judgment be formed now in its
empty ftate, of what effect muiic would have
in It if full. The finguiar diftinctnefs with
which the leaft noife on the ftage is heard
in every part of the houfe, is the moft curi
ous circumftance attending this building ;
nor has the caufe been difcovered. A frriall
very elegant theatre adjoining, feems like a.
mere opera box, after coming out, of the
other. Here the Farnefe family ufed fome-
times to amufe themfelves with acting plays
in perfon.
Under the fame roof the Academy of
Painting and Sculpture has apartments. The
fpecimens of the fcholars performances in
general do them honour. Here is the
m after-piece of Corregio, the Virgin and
Child, with an angel holding a book to the
latter, the Magdalen on one fide kneeling
to kifs the infant's foot, and St. Jerome ftand-
ing on the other. I had not feen,. or at leaft
did not remember,, Lady Miller's extrava gant

( 35 )
gant philippic againft this picture ; but Was
as much difpleafed as herfelf with the odd
ugly mouth and chin of the little Jefus, as
well as the too great width, and rather filly
expreffion, of the angel's mouth. Thefe
faults are very ftriking at the firft glance ;
but a little contemplation of this charming
picture makes one forget all its defects. The
child, though ugly, is perfectly natural, and
Lady Miller's remarks on the Magdalen
appear to me totally erroneous. She ap
pears, about to kifs the child's foot, while at
the fame moment he has caught hold of her
hair, and this occafions that gentle and moft
natural inclination of the head, yielding to
his grafp, which Lady Miller fays makes it
impoffible for her to apply any thing to
the foot but her ear. The action is fo juft,
I have no doubt it was taken from the ob-
fervation of nature. The angel behind,
with the vafe, has certainly an ideotic flare,
and St. Jerome looks like a baboon, as- the
Italians generally paint him. But the chief
merits of this famous painting are of a kind
more calculated to engage the admiration of
profound connoiffeurs and artifts, than ama-
D 2 teurs.

( 36 )
teurs. The exquifite clearnefs and beauty
of colouring in the fiefh, except only the
Virgin's head ; the moft delicate things ren
dered, as Cochin fays, feemingly by accident,
with other effects of mafterly execution,-
will ever, in fpight of faults of compofition,
and even of drawing, rank this performance
among the treafures of Italy. Unhappily
thofe very perfections are the moft difficult
to be imitated,, and therefore few copies of
this picture fhew any thing but ifs defects,-
The blackened fhades of the Virgin's head:
are eafily, and always faithfully, retained,.
while the delicate colouring of the Magda
len can fcarcely be feen, but in the originaL
This painting is in excellent prefervation,-
and kept with great care. Some particular
perfons are permitted to copy it, under great
reftrictions, with an overfeer to prevent da
mage. An Abbe was at work when we
were there, and his performance tolerable.
A very great curiofity in its way is the
Parma printing-office, carried on under the
direction of Mr. Bodoni, who has brought
that art to a degree of perfection fcarcely
known before him. Nothing could exceed? hi*«

( 37 )
Ms civility in fhewing us numbers of the
beautiful productions of his prefs, of which
he gave us fome fpecimens, as we'll as the
operations of carting and finifhing the letters.
He was extremely anxious to procure a cer
tain kind of very fmall files, only to be had
at Sheffield, and which he faid feveral tra
velling gentlemen and noblemen had pro-
mifed to fend him, but without keeping
their word. We were happy in fupplying
him immediately on our return. The ma
terials of his types are antimony and lead,
as in other places ; but he fhewed us fome
of \fteel. He has fets of all the known al
phabets, with diphthongs, accents, and other
peculiarities, in the greateft perfection. His
Greek types are peculiarly beautiful, though
of a different kind of beauty from thofe of
old Stephens, and perhaps lefs free and flow
ing in their forms, His paper is all made
at Parma. The manner in which Mr. Bo-
doni gives his works their beautiful fmooth-
nefs, fo that no imprelfion of the letters is
perceptible on either fide, is the only part of
his bufinefs that he keeps fecret. This effect
is produced fufficiently well by means of a hot
D 3 prefs,

( 3* )
prefs, as practifed in London. Our Shake-
fpear prefs indeed leaves nothing to be de
fined in that of Parma.
We found books in this town generally
dear. I bought a magnificent copy of
Plumier's Filices, indeed, for thirty-five fhil-
lings, not a third of its value ; but I verily
believe the bookfeller intended, to the beft
of his knowledge, to make me pay very
dear for it, fo exorbitant were his demands
for every thing elfe. ,
June 5. Engaged a voiture for Milan,
price five fequins, without being fed. We
found the innkeepers in the north of Italy
honefl enough to be trufted, at leaft fo much
as only to afk the price of our accommoda
tion on entering, and even if that precaution
was neglected, wi were feldom much im-
pofed on. Left Parma at five in the morn
ing. The road level, through a pleafant
and rich, though low, country, to Firenzuola.
Reached Piacenza in the afternoon.
This is a neat little fortified town, but the
ftreets narrow, and paved with fmall fharp
Hones, without foot-walks. In the princi pal

( 39 )
pal piazza are the equeftrian ftatues of Alef-
fandro and Rainulfo Farnefe, mentioned in
all books. The former looks as if he were
riding againft a high wind. Both have great
beauties and great defects : the drapery is
fine. Cochin's criticifm on thefe ftatues is
elaborate and juft.
June 6. Paid an early vifit to the cathe
dral, a gothic edifice, tolerably handfome
within. The altar was covered with filver,
and a large chandelier of the fame metal de
corated each pillar of the nave, as a prepa
ration for the feaft of Corpus Domini, This
finery however was certainly lefs attractive
to us than the painted cupola of Guercino,
the only thing which brought us hither, nor
did we repent. It is one of the beft of his
works ; though in frefco, having all the
beauty of oil, at leaft as much as his famous
Aurora at . Rome. The compofition is in
eight compartments, each of them occupied
by a prophet, with little cherubs below. In
the choir are two pictures relating to the
funeral and afcenfion of the Virgin, by Lu-
dovico Carracci, in a great but unpleafant
D 4 ftyle

( 4°' )
ftyle. The figures are much too coloffat
for their fituation, and the colouring cold
and dead. An altar-piece on the fouth fide
of the nave is a good Crucifixion, by a fe-r
male Bolognefe painter : although rather
ftiff, the figures have merit. Near it is the
Death of St. Francis Xavier, by Fiamingo,
in which are fome pretty cherubs, and the
expreffion of the faint is good.
Leaving this place about ten, we foon
croffed the Po, even here a confiderable river,
and after travelling four or five miles farther,
entered the Milanefe territories. The civil
officers at the cuflom-houfe trufting to our
words that wTe had nothing contraband, put
their feals upon our trunks unexamined, fo
that We entered Milan without farther trou
ble. The road here is fo extremely fandy,
that we could not get to Lodi, twenty-one
miles from Piacenza, till five o'clock. The
Gambaro at Lodi is a very decent inn.
The Cathedral, an ugly t,*]ding, was orna?-
merged for to-morrow's feftival with indifr
ferent tapeflry, made after thofe very car
toons of Raphael, now at Windfor-caftle,
about the bad prefervation and neglect of,
which

( 4i )
which fo many ftories have been told by
party calumny, as ill-founded as the gene^
rality of political tittle-tattle, that occafionally
frets or amufeS John Bull.
June 7. Left Lodi early. The morning
was very fine ; the road new and good,
through a flat country, watered by .ditches
and canals pf various levels, often carried
acrofs each other on bridges. This is for
the purpofe of inundating the rice fields,
numerous in the plains of Lombardy, each
pf which is enclofed with little banks to
keep in the water. The young plants of
price were now about fix inches in height.
Great appearance of population and opu
lence as we approach Milan, whofe gates
we entered by ten. 1 The principal ftreets
were covered with awnings and ornamented
with tapeftry in honour of the day; but
the proceffion of Corpus Domini had already
finifhed its rounds, during our proceffion
from Lodi to Milan. In the evening, how
ever, we faw the fame ceremony on a leffer
fcale in the cathedral.
Oa

i 42 )
On our arrival we experienced one of the
moft irkfome difappoint ments a traveller can
know. A friend had given us leave to order
our letters from home to be directed to the
houfe ofthe Abbe Oriani, Aftronomer Royal,
but had neglected to inform Mr. Oriani of
this arrangement. Accordingly we found
our letters had been returned to the poft-
office, and there was much reafon to fear,
had been fent after a perfon of my name to
Venice. No farther information could be
had till next morning, on account of the
feftival. Even the obliging attentions of
Mr. Oriani could fcarcely make the reft of
this day pais tolerably; but on the following
our anxiety was removed by finding all fafe
at the poll-office, when feventeen packets
fell to my fhare. This introduction to the
Abbe Oriani, imperfect and awkward as it
was, procured us fo much kindnefs and affift-
ance from this amiable man, as I cannot
fufficiently acknowledge. He had no rea
fon to be prepoffeffed in favour of our
countrymen, having juft before experienced
very different behaviour from certain great
perfonagess

( 43 )
perfonages in his own line in England,
notwithftanding the beft recommendations j
but he treated us as if he were paying a
debt of gratitude, inftead of humanity. I
have ever fince been proud to cultivate his
friendfhip.

{ 44 )

C H A P. XXXVI.

JMILAN — PAVIA, AND FROMJHENCE TO
GENOA,

Wi

E began our examination of Milan
with fcientific matters, and with them I mail
therefore begin my account.
The college of Brera is a noble inftitution*
The building belonged to the Jefuits, and is
very magnificent, with beautiful galleries
and colonnades of granite, fpacious apart
ments, where the arts and fciences are now
taught gratis, and where the various profef-
fors are comfortably, and even fumptuoufly,
lodged. The collection of calls from all
the moft efteemed antique fculptures are
very good. ' Our kind guide introduced us
to the Profeffor of Sculpture, who was then
at work on a very good buft, and feemed a
mari

( 4S )
man of enthufiafm and tafte. The obfef-*
Vatory is furnifhed with feveral fine inftru-
ments, fome made in England, other* in
France; and there are fome of Milanefe
workmanfhip far from defpicable. The
library is rich in hiftory, and more particu
larly fo in natural hiftory, for it contains
part of the library of Haller, bought, with
his Herbarium, for 2000 louis d'or, and di-
'vided by the Emperor between this place'
and Pavia. The books of Haller amounted
in all to fourteen or fifteen thoufand volumes*
I faw a copy of the lafi edition of his Hif-
toria Stirpium Helveticarum interleaved, with
notes* His hand-writing is very fmall, not
much unlike that of Linnaeus, but lefs legi
ble. The remarkable books we were fhewix
befides, were Fuft's bible, dated 1462 ; a
fine Livy printed at Milan' in 1480, and
Dante in 1478 likewife at Milan ; St.
Jerome's EpifUes, 'Rome 1468; a very cu
rious old volume of -wooden cuts, of at leaft
as early a date as 1440, according to the
librarian. It reprefents the life . of Anti-
chrift — not of the pope, or his allies, the
devil and pretender,, but of a perfon who h

( 46 )
is always attended by devils, and believes
neither the mafs, nor the immaculate purity
ofthe Virgin ; or what is even worfe, doubts
the honefty of monks. One might add
fome chapters to this curious work, if a new
edition fhould be called for.
The Botanic Garden is the pooreft thing
about this College , nor did I perceive in it
any new or remarkable plants. Arum Dra-
cuncidus in full flower, fmelt exactly like the
ftinking fifh-market of St. Mark at Venice.
The Collegio Helvetico, founded by St.
Charles Boromeo, is now converted into
fome public offices. The building confifts
of two handfome quadrangles, furrounded
with colonnades of the pale red granite of
this country. ,
The Ambrogian Library is by no means
fo considerable as I expected. Its principal
curiofities fhewn to travellers are, a Chinefe
chair, remarkably eafy tp fit on. Some calls,
far from good, of famous ftatues, among
others a fine crucifix, of Michael A ngelo's
at the Efcurial. Fragments of moft elaborate
and delicate carving in marble, once belong
ing to the tomb. of Gallon de Foix, nephew of

( 47 )
of Louis XII. of France. This young herd
was buried at Milan, but his tomb Was de-
flroyed in fome of the wars which fo long
harraffed this country between the French
and Germans ; and which form fo fevere a
fatire on the character of princes, who ought
to be the protestors and peace-makers of
mankind. The more jull their right to a
ftate, the more ought they to avoid, like the
true mother before Solomon, cutting, their
children in pieces. How few will ftand
fuch a teft ! Even Louis XII. defervedly
called the father of his French people, made
nofcruple of facrificing thoufands even of
them, whenever he fancied he could affert
his pretenfions to the Milanefe with any
ihadow of fuccefs; and the " fwinifh multi
tude " celebrate fuch exploits as heroic !
In this library are a few pictures ; as, the
Four Elements, by^ Breughel, very highly
finifhed ; a Holy Family, and two or three
heads, by Bernardino Luvino, a fcholar and
clofe imitator of Leonardo da Vinci.
Everybody has heard of the great folio
manufcript on mechanicks, done by the la'ft-
jnentioned painter with his own hand, illuf-
trated

( 4 )
ffated with innumerable drawings Of rii&*
chines in pen and ink, and written backward*
for engraving. James I. of England is faid
to have offered an immerife fum for this
book, which might as well have been ac
cepted, for no ufe^ has ever been made of
its contents* A no lefs curious manufcript
is the Latin tranflation of Jofephus, by Ru
finus, written in the old Lombardy charac
ter on papyrus, and on both fides of the
leaves', a very unufual circumflance. This-
muft be as old as the fourth century, Rufinus1
having been a contemporary of St. Jerome.-
Dr. Mofchati, principal phyfleian to the
great hofpital here, procured us the complete
inflection of that noble charity, and evert
accompanied us himfelf through part of it=
The building is extremely fpacious and
noble, the great court particularly fo. The
internal regulations feemed more methodical
and judicious than in any hofpital I almoft
ever faw ; nor did I ever enter one fo free'
from bad fmells. The number of patients
is generally about 900 or 1 000 iri the houfe
at a time. Separate wards are allotted for
cutaneous diforders ; fevers of all kinds to
gether.

( 49 )
gether, which is a ftrange overfight; furgical
cafes, and fome others ; one ward is' fet apart
for a difeafe almofl peculiar to this country.
It appears at firft in the form of a fcaly
eruption, which if not taken care of in time,
by administering the warm bath, with good
nourifhing diet and wine, incurable madnefs
follows. Such , is the account we had from
pur very intelligent guide, which is ex
tremely finguiar, and affords much room
for reflection.
. A fmaller hofpital adjoining is chiefly al
lotted to venereal diforders, and the fmall-
pox. Even in the wards where the. patients
were rubbing in mercury, no offenfive fmeli
was perceptible. The triturated preparations
bf mercury are ufed here, not thofe made
with acids. We , looked into a fmall very
neat hofpital^ ferved by fome Augufline
friars, and defigned for fervants chiefly, as
fomething is required to be paid for the
fupport of the perfotfs admitted. They are
very well accommodated.
There is a very good hofpital for lunatics,
in a retired fituation a little way out of town,
kept with great neatnefs and regularity.
Vol. III. E The

( 5° )
The patients are generally about 100 at a
time ; all nations and religions are admitted
indifcriminately. We were told fcarcely any
ever went mad here from devotion, but
rnany for love. Dr. Younge obferved, in
looking over the regulations, that the patients
in all thefe hofpitals are allowed a great deal
of cheefe ; whereas Dr. Home, of Edin
burgh, fays the Britifh hofpitals are in ge
neral moft accufed of giving the patients too
much of that food.
The cathedral of Milan is juftly efteemed
the moft magnificent in Italy, after St. Peter's
at Rome, and beyond comparifon the fineft
Gothic edifice in the whole country, where
indeed buildings, in that ftyle are rare. Yet
this fine church is ' unfinifhed, owing, it is
faid, to the allotment of considerable fums
for that purpofe from time to time, which
are to continue to be, paid annually till the
whole is finifhed, a fure method of prevent
ing the defired end ; nor is a fixth part of
the money, according to De la Lande, em
ployed for the intended purpofe. This
might in fome meaiure be pardoned, if what
is employed were jud icioufly laid out;, but
i St.

( 5i )
St. Charles Bbrromeo allowed a frontifpiece
in a Grecian ftyle to be clapped to this Go
thic building, and even that is ftill unfinifh
ed. In vain does De la Lande apologize for
it, as in a certain middle ftyle between.
Grecian and Gothic. There is no middle
between them, nor is this frontifpiece any
thing elfe than Grecian. It has always ap
peared wonderful to me that Inigo Jones
fell into the fame incongruity in his weft
front to the old church of St. Paul, burnt in
the fire of London.
No church in the world perhaps has more
ftatues about it than this of Milan, ' Moft
of them are bad ; I can fcarcely except the
famous one of St. Bartholomew holding his
fkin. It is intolerably hard, and ftiff; nor
is it of much confequence whether the muf-
cles be accurate or not. True fcience is
fhewn by reprefenting the mufcles of a body
in action, with the fkin over them ; there is
no merit in copying them when laid bare
and at reft.
Before the high altar, in a fubterraneous
chapel, repofes St. Charles Borromeo. This
chapel is one ofthe moft remarkable things-
E 2 about

C 52 )
About the cathedral. Nothing can be richer.'
The hangings are cloth of gold j the archi
traves of the doors, the cornice, in fhort
every thing but the hangings, is of maffy
filver. The cornice , is fupported by large
ftatues of angels j an& adorned with fine alto-
relievos, all ofthe fame metal. On the back
part of the altar, and raifed a little above it,
lies the faint's body in a tranfverfe pofition,
in a cafe made of large ffices, fix or eight
inches fquare, of very fine rock cryftal,- fet
in frames of filver, given by Philip IV. of
Spain, who was eight years in fearch of a
fuffitient quantity of cryftal. The body is.
moft magnificently dreffed in archiepifcopal
robes, with abundance of jewels. The face
only is vifible, and looks like that of an
Egyptian mummy. The nofe is nearly
gone, which, added to the drawing back' of
the lips from the teeth, gives the counte
nance a horrible and ghaftly look. St..
Charles died in 1584, aged forty-fix, and
refted peaceably in his grave about twenty-
four years, till he was made a faint of, and
placed here, which muft have fhocked his
boafted humility very much could he have
forefeea

( 53 )
fprefeen it. His motto was humilitas. This
fuperb fhrine is kept covered with a cafe of
wood blackened and ornamented, which is
removed for a fmall gratuity when ftrangers,
come. The common people here have a
tradition, that when the canonization of this
great archbifhop was - in contemplation, the
only flaw found in his character was his
having erected, when legate at Bologna, the
famous naked ftatue of Neptune in the great
fquare of that town ; and that this impiety
was very near preventing his being dubbed
a faint at all. He muft be allowed to be
one of the moft refpectable of the modern
Romifh faints, for he had many great and
good qualities, though an inclination to a
perfecuting fpirit. His munificence and
zeal in forwarding ufeful eftablifhments, at
leaft as he believed them, his courage and
benevolence in the time of the plague of
Milan, entitle . him to the veneration of his
countrymen. Nor can they be charged with
want of gratitude ; for St. Charles has quite
eclipfed the fame of their former patron
St. Ambrofe, and engroffed all their devo^
tion. E 3 We

C 54 >
We afcended to the top of the dome, and
almofl to the fummit of the little fpire in its
centre, from whence the eye commands the
rich and extenfive plains ¦ of Lombardy,
bounded on one fide by the Apennines, and
on the other by the Alps covered with fnow.
This dome and pinnacle are entirely of the
fineft white marble, and look quite new ;
nor indeed has the upper part been finifhed
many years. The workmanfhip is wonder
fully delicate, and in fome places the marble
is cut fo thin as to be femitranfparent,
and having a reddifh tinge, refembles the
alabafter crofs at Saint Maria, in Campitelli,
at Rome. See vol. ii. p. J53. In "moft
parts it looks like frozen friow, or fine fugar,
both in grain and colour. Upon the roof
are workfhops for the people employed in
the building, who feem to be very numerous;
and unlefs they, like Penelope, deftroy what
they finifh, one can fee no reafon why the
whole might not be very foon 'completed.
We took great delight in walking in this
church about dufk, when almofl every body
had left it. The declining light through
the noble painted windows; the vaulted roofs.

( 55 ) ,
roofs riling almofl out of fight ; the labyrinth
of taper columns ; the fcattered lamps glim
mering from Subterraneous chapels and foli-
tary fhrines and altars,
" "While more than echoes creep along the walls/'
excite apleafing folemnky of thought, which,
from an affociation of ideas, eafily becomes
a fpurious kind of devotion, and is generally
miftaken for the true.
The Madonna di San Celfo, a very rich
church, is beft worth feeing after the cathe
dral. Its architect was Bramante, who has
built a fmall kind of cloifter, very Simple
and elegant, before the entrance. The front
of the church, though handfome, is made
up of too many fmall parts, wanting fome
great bold portico, or at leaft columns. In
the lower part Stand two admirable ftatues
of marble, reprefenting Adam and Eve, by
Artaldo di Lorenzi : they are preferved with
great care, having lattice-work over them.
In the church are fome good ftatues by1
Fontana, noticed by Cochin and the Manuel.
The altar of the Madonna is adorned with
four large filver columns, in a fine tafte, arid
furrounded with many great filver lamps.
E 4 St.

( 56 )
St. Aleffandro alfo is very rich, efpecially the
high altar decorated with fine jafpers, and the
tabernacle cf gilt bronze, very profufely fec
with precious ftones, among which are feve
ral fine rubies.
St. Euftorchio is' chiefly remarkable for the
elegant Gothic fhrine of alabafter, containing
the body of St. Peter the Dominican mar
tyr, whofe death is fo finely painted by Titian
at Venice. Fle was inquifitor general of
this province under Pope Gregory IX. ; but
certain heretics, not liking to be roafted in
this world .as well as the next, returned him
good for evil, ' and fent him to heaven.
St. Lorenzo, in the fame quarter of the
town, has a welkfprmed cupola ; but the
upper part of the four great maffes on which
it refts, is very Singularly pannelled, and pro
jects in a heavy manner. Before this church •
ftands a row of fixteen fine antique fluted
columns of the Corinthian order, fupportiiig
a cornice, faid to have belonged to a temple
of Hercules. They are in a good ftyle,
but have fuffered much. This is the only-
ruin of any confequence in Milan. '
The monument, mentioned in the Manuel, to;

( 57 )
to be feen in St. Mark's cloifter, Sculptured
with the three Graces, is not antique, but
done in the fixteenth century.
At the Madonna delle Grazip, in the re
fectory, may be feen the celebrated frefco of
the Laft Supper, by Leonardo da Vinci ; a
picture admirable for drawing and expreffion,
but the colouring is much hurt. The ftory
pf this painting having been white-wafhed
by order of a Superior of the convent, be-
caufe the face of Judas happened to refemble
his, and recovered by acpident, is well known.
To thaf misfortune, pprhaps, is to be attri
buted its defective colouring. The figures
are fomewhat larger than life. We were.
too much occupied by the merits of this
picture, to find out that St. John is repre-
fented with fix fingers on one hand, as cu
rious perfons remark. In the church is a
yery capital performance of. Titian, Chrift.
crqwned with thorns. -The heads are very
fine. Alfo a picture of great merit, in many
f efpects, by Gaudentio di Ferrara, painted in
j 543, a whole-length of St. Paul the apoftle.
Th.ere is much character in the head, and
|he feet are admirably finifhed. The colours
4 are

( 58 )
are very brilliant, though hard ; and the
apoftle's red beard reminded me of Butler's
defcription of that of Hudibras :
" In fhape and hue fo like a tile,
" It might a fudden view beguile."
In the old church of St. Ambrogio lies the
body of that truly great faint, fo celebrated
for his courageous repulfe of the Emperor
Theodofius, and for feveral other heroic
actions, as well as for his -piety. His re
mains are under the altar, which is furround
ed by four pillars of brecciated red porphyry,
fupporting a Gothic canopy. De Ja Lande
tells us the Ambrofian ritual is flill retained
at Milan, out of refpedt tb their ancient arch-
bifhop ; and he is at the pains to defcribe in
what refpects this fervice • differs from the
Roman ritual. Thefe are trifling variations
about the manner of celebrating mafs, the
time when the prieft Should wafh his hands,
and when the creed fhould be faid, &c.
about all which a certain canon, whofe name
I will not preferve though he does, is faid
to have projected a very large work. ¦¦> '>,
" Strange that fuch difference there fhould be,
<* 'Twixt .tweedle dum, and tweedle dee !"
One

( 59 )
One cannot help fmiling at one peculiarity
pf the Ambrofian ritual. The gofpel is read
from a lofty pulpit, at the lower end of the
choir, " that the people," fays De la Lande,
" may hear it." Why then is it not in the
vulgar tongue, that they may underftand it?
St. Francis is a large handfome church of
modern architecture, in which, however, we
noted nothing particular, except a Very to
lerable picture over an altar on the left
hand near the door, the Subject of. which I
forget, and the painter's name could not
learn ; but it has not been long done, and is,
neverthelefs, much above the common run
of recent productions of the pencil.
St. Victor is a rich church, belonging to a
fuperb monaftery of Olivetani. Its altar ex
hibits a profufion of decorations in hard
ftones ; fuch as jafper, agate, &c. The roof
of the building, as well as its pillars, are too
gaudily painted. Over the fecond or third
altar on the left, is a very excellent picture
of a friar of this order, in their white habit,
administering the Sacrament to a Sick man ;
with another friar of the fame order affift-
ing him. The chiar' ofcuro and colouring
are very fine, Cochin does not notice this
painting,

( 6o )
painting, though he fpeaks of another whieli
efcaped us.
The chapel of the great hofpital contains
an Annunciation by Guercino, very admir
able, thpugh npt one pf his beft works. I
cannot admire the attitude of the Angel ; the
Glory, with God the father, find, Cherubs, are.
excellent. The capuchins' church, called il Giardino,
has a vpry remarkable roof, of a great width,
cpnfifting of ribs of mafonry, the reft being
of wood".
We thought the theatre of Milan fcarcely
inferior to that bf St. Carlo at Naples. Its
decorations were very magnificent. Here,
for the firft time, we heard the inimitable
Marchefi, whoSe talents and perfonal merit;
procure him general refpect, even in his own
country, arid haye been .honoured as they
deferve in ours.
At the zecca or mint we were Shewn the
whole procefs of coining, even the manner
of milling, which in fome places is kept
fecret, at leaft from the vulgar ; but is too
well known to thofe converfant at all with,
the Subject to need a defcription here.
The

( 61 )
The caftle of Milan feems very corife-
quential, and is faid to be worth feeing;
but we omitted to vint it. The public walks
are noble. I never faw fo many deformed
people any where as in this town, efpecially
about the legs. Moft of thefe unfortunate
perfons are rickety all over ; few have only
the hump-back.
The police of Milan is good, and the go
vernment jud and humane. The archduke,
a very amiable and popular prince, lives in
habits of great familiarity with his Subjects ;
his ear is acceffible to the meaneft, and his
hand open to all who are in diftreSs. Living,
always among his people, he interefts himSelf,
with the moft engaging benignity, about in
numerable circumftances, fuch as feldorn
come to a fovereign's knowledge, and reaps,
in perfon, that genuine reward, fo rare to
princes' ears, Sincere and deferved praife.—
Neither does Science efcape the archduke's
attention, for he is curious to infpect every
literary publication iri his dominions; and
the introduction of valuable exotic plants
has been one object of his care.
Several Milanefe noblemen have a tafte

for

( 62 )
for fcientific purfuits. The merits of the
Count Landriani, in chemiftry and natural
philofophy, are well known. The Caftigli-
oni family poffefs considerable zeal arid
knowledge in natural hiftory, one of them*
who vifited England in 1 785, having tra
velled to America for botanical purpofes ;
and I regretted extremely his abfence from
Milan during our flay there.
June 15. A voiture conveyed us before
dinner to Pavia, twenty miles diftant from
Milan ; the road very level and Straight ;
the country highly cultivated, with many
rice fields, and plenty of Lombardy poplars.
Four miles Short of Pavia we pafled the
magnificent Carthufian monaftery, now dif-
folved. It ftands • about a mile from the
road, at the extremity of a fine alley of
cypreffes. We ought not to have paffed it
Unvifited, but the weather was extremely
rainy, and we began to grow indifferent to
every thing of this kind that was not of
firft-rate eminence. We were alfo in im
mediate purfuit of objects of a different na
ture. Pavia

( 63 )
Pavia is a long fortified town, confuting
chiefly of. one Street, the other parts being
much Scattered like Padoua. There is a fin
guiar bridge over the river Ticino, covered
with a tiled roof. The Albergo di Lom-
bardia is an excellent inn. Here we paid
eight pauls each, near four millings, by the
day for our dinner and lodging, whieh is
the common rate of the country.
This is at prefent the moft celebrated uni-
verfity in Italy, and perhaps better furnished
with able profeffors, men of real genius and
activity, than moft at prefent exifting in the
world. The lofs of one bright ornament we
have now indeed to regret, the -celebrated
Scopoli, who was at this time Profeffor of
Botany here ; and to him our firft vifit was
paid. We found him 5. man verging towards the
decline of life, of a plain but animated coun
tenance, not at all refembling his portrait in
the Flora Carniolica, and entirely devoid of
the Stupid gravity So remarkable in that print.
He received us very kindly ; talked much of
his own works, particularly of one in Ger
man, on Mining, the manufcript of which
' was-

( $4 )
Was then before him. He is the editor or
an Italian translation of Macquer's Diction
ary of Chemiftry, with many notes'.'
Breakfafting with this profeffor next rriorri^
ing, I took an opportunity bf offering hirri
any affiftance the Linnxan Herbarium could
afford, by which he firft underftood it was iri
my poffeffion, having but Slightly read over
our French introductory letters. He was quite
overjoyed ; gave me a moft cordial embrace,
and from that moment we fcarcely feparated
during my abode at' Pavia. He prefented
me with his Entoinologia Carniolica, with
its rare unpublished plates, his Fundamenta
Botanica, and Element! di Chimica. Having
had his whole collection of the infects of
Carniola engraved as far as No. 815, Apis
terrejlris, the reft of the fpecimens were
found fo much damaged, he gave up the
work. We faw their remains, entirely
crumbled to dull. It is pity the figures, as
far as they go, were not published ; they
wpuid be very ufeful, his work being one
of the few claffical ones iri Entomology'.'
What is become of the plates I know
riot, The.

t 65 )
The botanic garden of Pavia is large, and
as well furnifhed as moft out of England.
In one part the plants are arranged ac
cording to the Linnsean fyflem ; in another
after their natural claffes. The profeffof's
houfe is pleafantly fituated in the middle.
Here Haller's ^herbarium is preferved ; the
plants fixed upon coarfe Strong paper, put,
up in large books, and much eaten by" in
fects. We looked over the Orchideee with
care, but got little information. There are
great numbers of fpecimens bf each fpecies
fent him by different people, with names and
Synonyms, fome right arid fome wrong, as
ufual; but fcarcely ever corrected by hinifelf.
It would therefore be dangerous tb 'draw
any important conclusions from this herba
rium, unlefis it were Studied with great care;
and then perhaps certain marks might be
found to diftinguifh froiri the reft his origi
nal Swifs fpecimens. Such marks make the
peculiar value of the herbarium of Linneus ;
as by them we can detect the original fpeci
mens which our great mafier had before
him at the publication of each of his works,
Vol. III. S and

( 66 )
and have feldom, therefore j to truft even
to his opinion as to the identity of a plant.
One morning at feven o'clock, we attend
ed a botanical lecture of Profeffor Scopoli's,
in a room at the garden. It was in Italian,
chiefly on graffes, their nature, arrangement,
and; ufes. He obferved that there are really
no limits between Bromus and Fejluca ; but
that, neverthelefs, Linnxus's arrangement of
the genera and fpecies in general, was the
beft, as . well as the firft, ever feen. He
fpoke of corn, beer, &c. in a very general
way ; for the lectures in this univerfity are
unufually fhort, feldom much exceeding half
an hour. . ,
,v We were no lefs happy in the acquaintance
.of Profeffor Scarpa, the celebrated teacher
pf anatomy. With him we Surveyed the
College, and its collection of anatomical pre
parations, all of which had been made within
three years, and do the Profeffor great ho
nour. The moft ftriking things appeared
to me, firft, An uterus, about a fortnight after
impregnation, whofe infide is extremely
villous, and , which Shews the manner in
which

( 67 )
which the ovum attaches itfelf to that part ;
thefe villi Mr. Scarpa thinks become the
membrana decidiia of Dr. Hunter. Second,
A tefticle very finely inje&ed with mercury,
and fo difpofed that the internal as well as
external tubuli are vifible, with the epidi
dymis and vas deferens, more diftinct than
in any I have feen, and yet very nearly in
their proper fituations. Here is alfo a moft
Curious collection of comparative anatomy,
made by the profeffor of that branch, a pu
pil of Mr. Scarpa. The nervous fyftem of
the black Aug Limax ater, the organs of ge
neration of the Gryllus, with feveral other
pieces,are extremely mafterly and instructive.
If this mufeum goes oil as it has begun, it
will be the firft thing in its way.
The hofpital is fpacious, airy^ and hand
fome ; the , patients about 400 ; the room,
or rather hole, for operations, very bad ; but
a new one was about to be built. Among
the patients we faw a woman who had an
immenfe extravafation of milk in one of
her breafts, which, on an incifion being
made, difcharged eight pounds of pure milk.
The breaft was now faft returning to its
F 2 proper

( 68 J
proper fize, though ftill full of finufes.' Her
health was good.
We were fortunate in hearing Mr. Scar
pa's concluding lecture for this feafon, on
the veins of the lower extremities. The
anatomical theatre is new and handfome j
but too near the Street.
We had alfo an opportunity of feeing the
degree of Doctor of Phyfic conferred at the
college upon three young genflernen, who;
defended their thefes againft the objections
of the profeffors very decently, and Spoke'
Latin readily enough, if not quite accurately.
Profeffor Scarpa, their promoter, afterwards^
put a gold ring upon the finger of each^
waved the hat very gracefully over their
heads, and" made a Sign of embracing them ;•
though not with the clofe hug of Montpel-
lier. The bufinefs concluded with a. very
good Latin oration from "Profeffor Scarpa^
relating to the 'Study and practice of medi
cine. The room appropriated to this cere
mony is new and elegant. The Emperor
Jofeph decreed, that no graduate here fhould
be obliged to publish any thing more than
four or five detached thefes or propositions j
no

i 69 )
fxo differtation, unlefs he choofes. By which.
order certainly much lofs pf time and la
bour is fpared to the poor ftudent, capable
pf being far better employed in instructing
himSelf, than in attempting to teach others.
The college library is a very good one, open
to every body every day, except festivals;
•the profeffors alone have the privilege of
borrowing books. Here is the greater por
tion of Haller's library; but I could not
find his celebrated copy of Rivinus's plates,
Containing the Orchidia, which moft copies
want. The librarian infilled on its being
at Milan, if any where. At Milan we were
told it was at Pavia. Here if another copy
pf the Hill. Stirp. Helvet. with notes ; alfc*
jhe Anatomical Tables of the fame author.
interleaved, with many manufcript notes in,
his own hand. We were alfp fhewn a fmall
work of Dr. Whytt's, in 8vo, or i2mo, in,
anfwer to Haller, on the Subject of irritabi
lity, from which all the appendix was vio
lently torn put, and the following words, or
fomething like them, written in Englifh
Upon one of the remaining leaves. " The
f„' whole of this appendix was at my re~_
F 3 " queft

C 7P )
?' queft omitted iri the edition of all the au-
** thor's works." This note was not Hal-
ler's, but in a fair large hand, probably
written by the perfon who fent him th^
book ; and it fhould feem that he tore put
the appendix in indignation, of which he
was very capable.
The Abbe Serafino Volta, keeper of the
public mufeum, very obligingly fhewed us
that collection, which is magnificently dif-
pofed. The ferpents are uncommonly nu
merous and fine, as well as the fifh : the
minerals good ; other departments in gene
ral not capital. ' The cabinet of natural phi-
lofophy is furnifhed with two orreries, by
Adams ; an air-pump, by Martin ; and one
on a newer construction, by Nairne ; with
feveral other capital instruments. The Abbe
Aleffandro Volta, brother of the above-
mentioned, is profeffor of natural philofophy,
and one of the moft eminent men in that
line in Europe. He was at this time from
home. Profeffor Scopoli introduced us to the
celebrated Father Gregorio Fontana, Profef
for of Mathematics, brother to the Abbe
Fontajia

( 7* )
Jbntana .pf Hqrence. This gentleman rarely
<juits his chamber on account of nervous
djfbrders ; bufe his conversation- is all chcer-
fulnefs and intelligence ; nor does Ms know
ledge of mathematics, however profound,
fo entirely abfofb his mind, as to prevent bis.
being extenfively converfant with other
branches of natural knowledge, and litera
ture in general. Little could I imagine, when
I enjoyed the pleafure of bis converfation,
and admired the acuteneis and verfatility of
his genius, that he fhould ever condeicend,
as he has fince done, to become the tranflator
and commentator of any production of
mine*; but his candour is equal to his abi
lities. It is needlefs here to enter into the parti
culars of the celebrated fracas which hapr
pened at Pavia not long fince, relative to
fome articles miffing in the public mufeurri.
Nothing is more painful than tp find ble
mishes in a diftinguifhed character; nor
fhould I mention the matter at all, but for
* Difcorfo preliminare agli Atti della Societa Linneana
di Londra, &c. tradopo fedelmente dai? idioma Inglefe^
con note. Pavia, 1 792, 8vo.
F 4 the

( 7« )
the purpofe of juftifying the innocent. All
the above-mentioned profeffors were unani-
rrious in their account. The*government
was alfo well informed of the truth, and the"
Emperor Jofeph II. took care to have his
Sentiments known. But, unwilling' to lofe a
perfon whofe fcieritific abilities were of im
portance to the univerfity, the accufers were
fomewhat harfhly condemned to Silence.
Poor Scopoli, one of the moft concerned
in the bufinefs, died of grief the following
year ; and his only juftification was a print
ed circular letter, fent to the principal literati
of Europe, in which the real caufe of his
death was mentioned, and which authority
itfelf did not fupprefs. May my honeft,
though feeble, endeavours * help to revive
his blafted laurels, and protect a name which
ought to be dear to every good man, and!
doubly fo to every naturalift ! It is the privi
lege pf an Englishman, thank Heaven !
Safely to affert the caiife of juftice, whether
in his own cafe or in that of another ; 3
* See Plant. Icones ex Herb. Linn. fafc. 2, i. 34,
page 2. privilege

C 73 )
privilege which, under even a mild and be
neficent Sovereign, cannot, we find, be al
ways obtained in an unlimited government,.
May. happy Britain long moft jealoufly
watch and preferve this ineftimable bleffingj
May fhe be cautious too of hazarding it im
purfuit of other advantages, however flatter
ing, remembering how much She has to lofe,
but how little to gain \
We anxioufly wifhed to hear a lecture
from the famous profeffor of natural hiftory^
the Abbe Spallanzani, not choofing to be.
prefented to him ; and it fortunately fell out
that our euriofity was gratified. His coun
tenance is auftere and proud, in form in
clining to the African. His delivery fo ex
tremely deliberate, drawling, and monoton
ous, it could fcarcely be heard with a grave
face ; but the compofition of his lecture fo,
admirable, as to make us forget all the reft.
The Subject was the different lengths of time
which different butterflies remain in the
chryfalis, and hoW far their exit may be
hastened by heat ; with Reaumur's experi
ment of putting the infects in that Slate
under a hen, and fo producing the firft but-
4 terflies

( 74 )
terflles perhaps, as the profeffor faid, that
were ever hatched by a bird. He concluded
with fome conjectures upon the poffibility
of laying Jarge animals, as men, in a trance
for any length of time ; an idea of Mn
Hunter's, which Spallanzani dreffed out
with all the graces of imagination j sud at-s
though the greater part of his lecture may
he found in the plain unadorned pages of
Reaumur, yet he made the whole fo much.
his own by his decorations and mafteriy
arrangement, it would be invidious to deny
hrm his due praife.
The profeffors live here in a very handfome
ftyle, on ample faiaries, and thofe fakries not
fmecures, nor the reward of political in
trigue. We could gladly have made a long re
sidence in this feat of real Science, and left it
with much regret. Our laft yilit was to
Profeffor Scopoli, who enriched me with
feveral plants, gathered by himfelf the pre
ceding year in theTyrol, freely offering any
botanical communications in his power.
With what pleafure did this good man anti
cipate my promifed communication of Ame
rican and other feeds not known in Italy, as

'-$ 75 }' _ ,
as 'he took his eyening walk in the "garden,
and his pupils "crowded around to klfs his
hands ; but unhappily I had never an op
portunity of gratifying him or myfelf in
this way. '
Walking on the ramparts of Pavia, thofe
celebrated ramparts where every ftep recalls
the hiftory of a Charles and a Francis, we
enjoyed in an evening the mufic of the gar-
rifon, with all that was gay and pretty in the
tovvn liftening to hear it. Nothing could
be 'more delicious than the clearnefs and
temperature of the air, though almofl every
evening was attended with forked lightning
In abundance, without thunder/ We found.
none but common well-known plants- about
the town.
The opera here is extremely bad, and
feems chiefly intended to gratify the ftudents,
whofe principal pleaSure confifls in enjoying
their privilege of talking louder than the
perforis on the Stage, and laughing, not
always unaptly, at any tragical part meant
to be particularly fine.
Independently of all the entertainment and
friendly attentions we experienced at Pavia, I left

( 76 )
I left it with peculiar regret, for I here quit*
ted the companion of my tour. Unavoid
able engagements called him home, while
the well-known attractions of Genoa, and
the untried ones of Turin, were, on my
part, not to be refifted. Dr. Younge re
turned to Milan, purfuing his route home
ward by Mount Simplen, through Switzer-
land, June tig. After dinner, aMilanefe cpunt„
who was trayelling to Genoa in great ftate,
in the coach of a Spanifh cardinal, without
fcruple admitted me and my fervant to fhare
his magnificence ; and we foon ftruck a bar-
gain with his driver.
The country is very fwampy, being even
at this feafon under water ; accordingly agues,
are very frequent. We croffed in a boat a,
little branch of the Teffino, landing in the
king of Sardinia's dominions, and were then,
ferried over the Po. Slept at Voghera in a,
moft comfortable inn. Great numbers, of
luminous infects were flying about in the
dufk, emitting light every moment by ftarts.
I flattered myfelf they had been Fulgora cuz
ropceay

( 77 )
ropeea^ but they proved only the winged!
males of the Italian glow-worm, Lampyris
itdlica, in which both fexes are luminous.
When we came to pay our bill in the
morning, I wasfurprifed to find no demand
made, but the whple left to the difcretion of
my companion, who paid in all, for himfelf
and for me, much lefs perhaps than I fhould
have paid alone ; as was the cafe all the Way
to Genoa. Such is the advantage of travel-*
ling under the protection of an inhabitant
of the country.
June ao. Paffed through Tortone, defend
ed by a considerable fortrefs, arid came to
Novi in the Genoefe State.
This is a pretty neat little town, fituated
among hills. Mr. Colliris, an Englishman,
who has a fabrick of raw filk, was fo oblig
ing as to Shew us the worms fpintting. The
women who Superintend them, efteem dark-
" coloured worms the beft to breed from, and
take care to faye them for that purpofe.
Moft of the country people and fervants
hereabouts breed filk- worms in their cham
bers, Supplying them with flicks arid branches of

( 7^ )
of trees to fpin upon; They odcafibh, €
faint unpleafant fmell in the apartment,- and!
I fhould think the more1 airy Stages, cori-
flructed' on purpofe rin fpacious buildings/
muft be more healthy for the animals, and
better for the filk. The Novi filk is co'arfe,-
and generally ufed unthrown;
A hilly road,- through a very pictufefque
country, brought us to Voltaggio, where is1
a poor inn, though not the worft in Italy.
June 21. We were early upon duty, hav-
irig to crofs the famous high mountain called
the Bbcchetta, by which is the only approach
to Genoa by land, except along the coaft.
The country is . extrerriely romantic ; the
road fteep, and winding, very much ovet the
hills. I obServed feveral rare and pretty
plants, as Phyteuma fpicata, Coronilla varia,
Juncus niveus, and Hieracium Auricula. Se
veral numerous parties of mules were upon
the road, with fmall wooden boxes hung
acrofs their faddles, chiefly containing, as I
was told, the gold coin of Milan, which i's
exchanged with Genoa to a very great ad1-
vantage. Indeed, fo I found it by the little
2 I had)

C 79 )
1 had with me ; but the Milanefe will not
let a ftranger Share any of this profit that
they can help. ' If I remember [right, the
gain is about nine per cent, in favour of
Milan. At the bottom of the hill, on the other
fide, ftands Campo Marone, a little fcattered
romantic village, named from the number
of chefnut trees about it. Nothing can be
more charming than the reft of the road to
Genoa, among hills clothed with wood, cul
tivated wherever the ground will admit of
it, and ftudded with villas, churches, and.
cottages.

CHAP.

( 80 )

CHAP. XXXVIt

GENOA IN RETURN.'
iLNOUGH has been already faid of the
palaces, churches, and pictures of Genoa in
fhe early part of this work. I have fpoken
'of its magnificence, let us now take a view"
pf its enjbyrrients.
Many of the noble Genoefe have a fort
of hanging gardens upon the baftions of
the town, which, although often confined in
fpace, have a peculiarly romantic and Angu
lar effect. Bowers of paffion flower, treil-
lages of vines, terraces, and grafs-plats, de
corated with all forts of fweet-fmelling
flowers, offer themfelves unexpectedly one
after another without end ; and every ftep,
in general, prefents a profpect of the bay
and furrounding country, equally rich, va
ried, and extenfive. The great advantage
of thefe gardens is their fituation within the

( fc j
the walls, which makes them acceflible at all
times j whereas the town-gates being Shut
about eight or nine o'clock, tb return from
a country villa, after thofe hours, is imprac
ticable, at leaft without the trouble of an ex*
prefs pefmiffion ofthe council, which coxild
not be obtained by every body every day.
To thefe villettaf, as they are called, their
Owners retire in the cool bf the evening*
either tbfolitary ftudy, or to the fociety of a
few moft feiect friends. There nb ftate nor
ceremony is allowed to intrude.
From fome of thefe elevated fitiiations the
view of the town on the eve of St. John
Baptift, the great feftival of Genoa, was the
mofi finguiar I evei4 beheld. The town was
brilliantly illuminated; while along the glow
ing purple coaft to the weft, the laft rays ofthe
fetting fun .ftill trembled on the hills, and
the moon arofe in the eafl. To thefe three
contrafted lights was added the finguiar ef
fect of the innumerable flying glow-worrns,
darting their momentary fpleridour through
all the Streets, gardens, and rooms. We ufed
frequently to catch thefe little infects, arid
entangle them In the ladies' hair arid head-
VOL. Ut G drefs ;

( §2 )
drefs; a decoration the Women in fonte
"countries adopt thenrfejves. A lady of Genoa
told me a Singular anecdote bf fome Moorifh
women of rank/ taken priforiers ' by the
Genoefe, arid detained for a rarifom. They
were lodged at a villa out of the town, and
vifited, during their flay; by Several families.
A party going to fee them/one furn'mer's
evening after a hot day, were furprifed to
find all, their doors and windows clofe' Shut,
and themfelves in the uthioft terror arid aif-
trefs. They had conceived an idea, that
thefe luminous flies were the difturbed fouls
of their departed relatives. The comrnbn
:¦ , i".y:\; >. ¦ ..¦-,'¦
people of Genoa too fuppbfe them to be of
a Spiritual nature, and to come out of the
graves — of courfe they are beheld with ab-

horrence.

After looking down on the illuminations,
we„ joined the crowd in the ftreets, which
was, very numerous, and confifted of per-
fpns of all ranks ; the, ladies of quality, lean
ing on their cavalieri ferventi, were followed
by their chairs, with innumerable footmen
and .flambeaux. Every window in the prin
cipal ftreets was lighted up j but I faw rio

( .83 )
transparencies, nor .other devices, as. in ouf ¦
London illuminations.
, ; TJhd.vill.et.ta pf the Cbuntj)urazzo has ail
^dyantage, not very enviable in a place of
letirement, that of commanding the ground
for piaying at the Paliohe, or great ball, a
favourite game here. The players are di
vided into two parties, and each takes its
.ftation at One end of the ground, a line of
partition being drawn acrofs the middle*
Their right arms are guarded with a large
thick bracelet fet with points. With this
they ftrike the ball, which is large, but light ;
their chief aim being to keep it up as long
as they can, and, above all, to, prevent its
falling in their own ground. The Specta
tors are very numerous, even of perfons of
fafhion, placed in boxes like thofe of a the
atre. They bet very high, and feem much
interefted in the game.
The chief promenade of the Genoefe in
an evening, is a fquare called Piazza d'Aqua
Verde. This is planted with a few trees,
but for the moft part furrounded with dead
walls, and void of all beauty ; being fpacious
and airy however, and almpft the only flat
Gi fpace

( §4 )
fpaCe'of any extent within the walls', it is
much frequented by all ranks of people.
On the 4th of July I had an opportunity,
under the protection of the Durazzo family,
of feeing the great council, and the final
election of the Doge, the pnly occafion on
which ftrangers can be admitted at all to that
auguft affembly. The fight of fo many hun
dred perfons in an elegant full-drefs of black
filk, for the French Ambaffadof only was in
regimentals, added to the magnificence of
the great hall, with its pillars of brocatello
marble, was very ftriking. No fwords are
allowed to be worn on this Occafion. The
tedious mode of electing this phantom of a
Sovereign, has been often defcribed. The
fix were already chofen, and waited in an
adjoining room, till one of their number
was balloted for by the whole great council
in the ufual way, and at laft Rafaele di Fer
rari was declared duly elected. Proper
officers then brought the new Doge into the
great affembly, where he was inverted with
the crimfon robe, and took the oaths and
his feat on the throne. All the company
afterwards paffed him one by one, Saluting him

( 85 I
ram with a bow. The mob were then ad
mitted into the lower end of the hall, as far
as a barrier placed acroSs the apartment;
and their acclamations were as loud as if
they had any concern in the matter, or any
reafon to be glad or forry. We went into
the Doge's private apartments, where num
bers of ladies were waiting to pay him their
compliments. He foon appeared, and feated
himSelf under a canopy in one ofthe rooms,
when all the company went and bowed to
him as before, which compliment he returned.
The office of this chief magistrate lafts two
years, during which he muft not, without
permiftjon of the Senate, go out of his
palace. If, however, he does not retire be
fore the two years are expired, the law fays
he may be thrQwn out of the window.
Moft Doges choofe to anticipate the fatal
period a few hours. They are then fenators,
with the title of eccelentifimq , for life. After'
this bufinefs was over, odes of congratula-r
tion were distributed about the town,
The Doge fometimes goes in Hate to the
qpera, and makes really a magnificent ap-'
pearance, fitting in his robes in the central
G 3 box

(4 86 )
box, and attended by numerpus pages in verjF
rich liveries.
. The country about Geripa is fo extremely
hilly, the only way of travelling into the ;
interior parts is in fedan chairs. I under
took a botanizing excurfion of this kind
among the mountains, with my friend Dr,
Pratolongo jun. and certainly never expe
rienced a more finguiar one. We dined the
firft day at Pino, a romantic country-Seat of
his excellency the Senator Marcellino Du
razzo, owner of the great palace in Strada
Balbi, This gentleman received ¦ us very
kindly, and gave an entertaining narrative
•of his going to France in the yeaf* 1747, to
folicit the affiftance of Louis XV. againft
the Germans. All the Genoefe coaft being
occupied by the enemy, he was obliged to
return by fea from Marfeilles; and that har
bour being blocked up by the Engliih fleet,
he efcaped in the difguiSe of a fifherman,
with a million of French livres. For this
Service, and his good conduct when Doge,
he has had the almoft unprecedented honour
pf a ftatue in the great Council Chamber,
greeted in his life-time. At dinner we were
8 joined.

( H )
joined by his brother, the abbe, a celebrated
preacher, and, an ex-jeSuit, ftill wearing the
habit ; a very pleafant, fenftble, and accom-
plifhed man.
We dined, al frefco, in a room fitted up
like a grotto, adjoining to an apartment fur-
nifhed with baths ; the walls of which are
well painted by Domenico Parodi, efpecially
a Diana bathing, of great merit. The Ger
mans having poffeffion of this villa in 1 746,
fo completely reverfed the order of things,
as to make a fire in this bath, and entirely
blackened the picture with fmoke ; but a
fponge and water afterwards perfectly re
stored it. In retreating they fet fire to" the
houfe, and its upper part was burnt down.
We proceeded in the evening about two
miles farther, through a moft picturefque and
hilly country, to a country-houfe of Dr.
Pratolongo's, at St. Orfefe, By the Way
found Linum hirfutum, and Hieracium Auri
cula f I had obferved on a funny bank this
morning, not far from Genoa, great plenty
of the Catananche ceerulea, well known in
our gardens, beautifully intermixed with
fflagopogon Dalechampii, and here and
G 4 there

C 8S )
there Centaurpa paniculatd. That moft ele
gant and remarkable infect Myrmeleon libel-
luloides was flying about in great numbers,
and was eafily caught by the hand. The
common people call it mazza prete, or the
prieft-killer, for what reafon I could rib?
learn. The next morning being very hot, we
botanized in a wood by the fide of a rivulet
running from the mountains, and found
Hieracium cymofum very common all about
thefe hills, with Melittis Melijfophyllum, Ari-
Jlolqchia rotunda, &c.
In the evening afcended one of the hills,
and in a moift pafture I found, for the firft
time, Serapias Lingua, the only plant of the
Orchis tribe, perhaps, whofe colour is abfo-
, Jutely unchanged by drying. A rock afford
ed us fome alpine Lichens, and a dry pafture
Linum tenuifolium. This is one of the moft
romantic places I ever faw. The hills are
very abrupt, nor is there an inch of level
ground. But every fpot is turned to account.
Little corn-fields, vineyards, paftures, and
cottages, Sheltered with mantling vines, di
versify the Scene. The paftures abound with

( $9 )
With the everlafting pea, LathyruV latifoliusj,
having narrow leaves however, the charm^
ing Coronilla varia," among feveral other
elegant plants, and of courfe' innumerable
infects of great beauty, for where plants
abound, infects are fure to come.
On the third day we returned by the Pol-
cevera, or Bocchetta, road to Genoa.
Another delightful expedition was, by the
fame extraordinary conveyance, in company
with my late friend Mr. Oaffarena, the
Heffian Conful, to his country-houfe at La
Caftagna, four miles from Genoa to the
eaft, in a moft fweet fituation. A rich
country covered with vines and olive-trees,
makes the foreground of the landfcape ; with
a lofty and gradually fwelling hill decked
with villas and churches on the left, and on
$he right the fea.
Here the Count Doria has fome fanciful,
but too artificial, gardens; yet even the moft
faftidious devotee of unfettered nature muft
Surely be Struck with aftonifhment, if not
admiration, at the covered walks of orange
and lemon trees, whofe rpofs prefent one
continued glow of golden fruit, while
through

('( 9* )
. through, the«,t]reillage of their frdes every
gale wafts fragrance from their bloffsms.
¦ From Xa Caftagna we yifited a little con
vent pf Capuchins, and in returning drank
tesit| a^rpcky recefs on the-jfea beach., Here
grew myrtles and hpneyfuckles, with Lotus
hirfutus and Crithwurq ' maritimum. Upon
this and: other cqafls of the Mediterranean,
may be picked up abundance of denfe com
pact balls, formed of the woody fibres of
marine plants, knit firmly together by
the action of the waves. If this caufe
. . . i. . : x x.
alone is Sufficient to produce, fuch bodies,
no wonder fimilar ones are formed of
hair and vegetable fibres in th'e ftomachs
and interlines of animals, where mucus and
various fubftances affift their cohefion.
My laft country excursion was with the
Durazzo family. Mr. Jacomp Durazzo, wlio
has for fome time paft been collecting a library
of rare and curious books, particularly the
productions of Aldus' s prefs, poffeffes,- at his
poble villa pf Corniglianq, a very refpect-
able piufeum of Natural Hiftory, of which
&s. younger brother, Mr, Hippplito, has
been

( 9* )
been the projector and fuperintendant.— ^
Four of the moft delightful days J of my
fecond vifit to Genoa were fpent at this
villa, With its amiable* owner and his family.
Our mornings were employed in the mu-
feum, which confifts of three fpacious apart- ,
ments, furrounded with glafs cafes, contain
ing minerals, quadrupeds, birds, fifties,
corals, and a fine collection of fhells. In
the firft room are good marble bulls of Ari~
ftotle, Pliny, Linnseus, and Bergman. The
minerals are difpofed according to the Scia-
graphia of the latter ; the reft after the Lin-
nasan fyftem. Pr. Caneferi, Profeffor of
Natural Hiftory, was of our party, and
every one had their department affigned ;
fome labouring at the determination bf the
fhells, others at the birds. The jafpers arid
agates from Sicily in this collection are ex
tremely fine, and are fet in the window-
Shutters; a good method enough, as they
thns'take no room, and their hardnefs fecures
them from injury. ' <
We generally liad company at dinner,
after which, thofe Who chofe it amufed
themfelves with billiards, and, the evenings were

were employed in walks and rides, Or vifi.t.8-
in the neighbourhood, y The Duke of Gri-
maldi, one of th? perfons I moft wifhed to
have feen, was from home, This noble
man, the well-known prime minifter pf the
late king of Spain, would fain have tempted
Linnaeus to fettle in that country. The
liberal offers made to that distinguished man,,
of letters pf nobility, the ffee exercife of
his religion, and an ample Salary, are Suffi
ciently known ; a§ well as his mpdeft refufal.
I am poffeffed ofthe original correfpppdence^
which ,doe§. honopr tp both parties, On his,
own refufal, Linnseus was requefted tp re-:
commend one pf his piipils, to examine the
natural hiftory of Spain and South, Airierica,
He fent Loefling, who unfortunately died
young. Afterwards wars, the curfe of na?
tions; and the invariable ruin of ah their beft
interefts, diverted the attention of theSpanifb
court from this object. They have fince
refumed it with fuccefs, and much is to be
expected from the perfons they haye encour
raged.. .... .#
On the fea beach, under the garden wa}l
at Cprnigliano, grew the rare Echinophorp
2 fp'mofa,

( ¦# )
fpinofa, zxA. Euphorbia Peplis. I rriucb.
doubt whether' the former has a right to be
reckoned an Englifh plant, and whether
fomething elfe has not been miftaken fork,
; though it is not eafy to guefs what. Nobody
can now find Echinophora in the place men
tioned by Ray.
At a villa of Count Durazzo's not far
. diftant, among feveral other curious trees
and Shrubs, I obferved DurantaEUifii, twelve
or fourteen feet high, moft beautifully co
vered with flowers, in the natural ground.
Thefe flowers much refemble Veronica Cha-
meedrys, fo common under all our hedges;
and I mean the comparifon as a high com
pliment, for nothing can be more elegant
than this Veronica.
Now I anf.on the Subject of Natural
Hiftory, the following curious infects, found
about Genoa, deferve to be mentioned :
Scarabeeus ficJicus ; very common.
— , — __ — r" prifchii; more rare,
* — — - — fpeciofjjimus', Scopoli Delic. Infubr.
fafc. I. /. 21. f A,
one in the garden at
Cor nigi iano. Scarabaus

( 94 )
ficarahaus fuliginofus / JLjufd* t. 11. f. 15,
riot cjbmmdn.
,Hifter guadrimqculatui ; of this, rare infect rl
picked -up orie fpeci-
men in Italy, but dm
not quite fure. whe
ther at Genoa, of
farther, fouth.
jLqmpyris Italica / Very common, even
in- all the Streets and
houfes in an evening*
If trpddeiiupon, and
the foot is drawn
along the ground, a
luminous line re
mains for fome mi
nutes. I found a few
winglefsfemaleglow worms, diftinct from
the above, and which
agree exactly with
the common Lam*
\%pyris nocJiluca, ex
cept rin being twice
as large as our Eng-
X lifh

Meloe cichorti',

lifh onea,.'andt\bwilwBt
in proportion.
iJ- endlefs varieties, diffef-
ing chiefly in kh&VtjafiL-
ous pfopltMiefos of black
and yellow inthe elytra^
are^ to be found in the
heat of the day feeding
UipOTF/ScolymuJ Jhacula-*
tus, "in. wafte /ground
about tfie light-houfe
and other places.- . -Af'.
[ very common on all the
trees/making a moft dif-
agreeable fhrill chirping.
Ray has long agcrfhewn
the error of tranllators,
who: call this, which is
the Cicada bf Virgil, a
grafs-hopper ; but the
lattef infect, -neverthe
lefs, ftill retains .¦; its:u-
furped privilege
" to point a moral, or adorn' a tale"

Cicada plebeja ;

Citne».

•r Circe, Fabir. Sp.
Inf. ri. 344,

( 9* )
ItHtatUxi ; very toihrriorii &&
well as at Pavia and
-A A;: -, MontpeUier.
APapilio rPodaHriUi ; extremely plentiful.
— — — , Antiope ; ditto; one caught in a
-garden at La Cafe
tagna.
hinx Phegea ; near the fea.
Phaleena Hera ; in a wood at Corrii-
--' I" ; ¦ :. '.: gliario.
Myrmeteon libelluloides ', common, as before
*•].!.'_• uo x mentioned.
Of collections of Natural Hiftory in Genoa
itfelf, little can be faid. That at the palace
of the Univerfity I have already mentioned,
vol. i. 257. Science, or rather patronage,
x ia here in its dawn.
" Sint MecasnateS, non d'eerunt, FlacCe, Maroneis."
A fmajl and poof botanic garden is, ari
appendage to the college.
Dr. Rofftni has a Select collection of mU
nerals, in which the^ptneft things are, as
-x . C J y
mocoa ftorie of uncbriimon beauty ; a good
\ Pculus mundi, and an extremely fine flice^
about

I 07 i
about fix inches broad, apparently a kind of
unformed mafs of emeralds, perhaps what
Ihe Italians properly mean by pldfma di fine*
raldo ; but I had no bpportunity of examin**
ing the Specimen minutely. If Seemed, how
ever, very diftinct from green jafper or agate,
and more transparent. See Father Petrini's
Gabinetiti Miner alogico', published at Roriie,
179 1 and 1792, vol. i. p. 2 5 8.
At a convent of Capuchins, out of St.
Catharine's gate, is preferved an Herbarium,'
made by Boccorie, cortfiftirig of two volumes
of Corficati plants, one of Ligurian, and
one mifcdllarieous. I looked the whole
through, but obferved few rare plants, arid
no nondefcripts. Gnaphaliurh fupinum Linn.
is called Gnaphalium alpinum nanumv
' The druggifts' Shops afford fome curious
articles of Materia Medica-. Fungtfx Meli-
ienfts ( Cynomorium coccineum Linn.) may be
had in any quantity very cheap, though Mr.
Colle, of Marfeilles', fhewedme a miferable
Specimen' as a great treafure. Vanilla '(Epi-
dendrurh Vanilla ) is^ld very good at two
Shillings,' Englifh, '¦ the Ounce ; ari ''inferior
fort at one fhilling.' '*'
Vol. HI. H The

. TheGenoefe fea is reputed to be deftitut$
of fifh ; there appeared, rteverthelefs, plenty
of the beft kinds in the market, as Johrj
Dory's, Pipers, CuttIefifh».S?:c. Raja Forpedv
is often eaten here. At the M&rq^s Du-
razzp's table, on meagre days, we had fifh
in fuch profuiion and variety as I never be
fore witneffed. I was politely offered meat
on thofe days, but difcretion, as well as in-r
clination, made me decline, it ; for the moft
unre^fojoabJle epicure might he fatkfied with,
a meagre dinner at Genoa, and* itnleJ^ told,
Wpuld never fufpect half .their difhes were/
not anima] food ; nor that any of them were;
intended to mortify the fleih.
Firuij is plentiful enough in the .markets,
and very fine, particularly figs pf various-
kinds, peaches, and in the wintertime pome
granates, and feveral moft excellent Sorts of
appJeSa one ©fwhich, called flg ^>2^,has
a jP^vour nofrunjike that pf a pineapple, arid
ij>' in many parts femitranSparent. Dates;
frpm the Levant are in much greater per
fection than with us,, an^he roots of Cy^erm
efcukntus are not unfrequent. The latter
t»fte like very fweet filberds, but ate full of

< 99 )
Woody fibres; The common people eat
rnuch of a bread made of chefnuts; far from
pleafant, and a fort of pudding of Chick
peas, Cicer ar\etinumi
One of the moft finguiar things about
Genoa, is its public baking-office, under the
direction of a particular magiftrate, where
alpne bread can lawfully be made for fale ;
yet much is made and fold in a contraband
Way in various parts of the town, as well as
a great deal in private families for their own
ufe. Happily for me this office was one of
the lafi things I faw at Genoa, for I could
with difficulty bear the fight of bread during
the reft of my flay. A fcene of more dif-
jgufting filthineSs carl fcarcely be conceived.
The workmen, who labour all night, and
reft in the day, on account of the heat, are
naked, except a fmall cloth for decency, and
a pair of flippers ; but they actually knead
the dough with their naked feet. Every
part of the proc«fs is in harrnony with this
elegant practice. There were five or fix
ovens then in ufe ; i&Lit I expected to fee a
rnuch more vaft undertaking, considering the
popUloufnefs of the town. When will gp-
FI 2 vernments

( *ob )
vernments learn the perfiicious' confequences^
of fuch exclufive privileges ?
Artificial flowers are very well made here,
and writing-paper is excellent. I am told
all the paper ufed for playing-cards in Eng
land eomes from Genoa.
I do not think the character of the Genoefe
in general is well understood, at leaft of
the higher ranks. There may, indeed, be
many ignorant, trifling, and proportionably
proud people among the nobility, and what
country is entirely without-Such ? But there1
are feveral quite the reverfe, to whom-their
rank is not an opprobrium but an honour*
As to fociety, the line is indeed very dif»
tinctly drawn between nobles and plebeians;
but this "feems to be mPre felt by thofe im
mediately below the high ranks-, than- by the
bulk of the people. The latter are eafy and
free in their manners, without Servility, and
with much republican fpirit. A noble Ge
noefe always behaves to them with extreme'
affability. The people have more than once
been formidable to their rulers ; and when
the King of Naples vifited Genoa a few
years- ago, they fhewed fo great a partiality to

to him, that, to avoid honours and troubles
for which he had no inclination, his Majefty
ip faid to have made a precipitate retreat.
The public manners are very decent, and
the police pretty good. The ftrange cuftom
of Cicefbeos, or Cavalier i ferventi, exifts
here in full force ; but the real nature of
this cuftom, with all its remote confequences,
is too intricate a labyrinth for a ftranger to
develop. No doubt it may be a great fource
of immorality; but it is not neceffarily fo
and it is often as burthenfome to one of the
parties as the heavieft matrimonial yoke can
be. I have known young men ofthe higheft
fafhion who had the courage to refufe their
wives this facrifice to cuftom, and the man-
linefs to fcorn the office of cicefbeo them-
felves ; but few can long refift the torrent of
opinion. The Genoefe are extremely attentive to
their religion, conftant at maSs, and engaged
in many fraternities of penitents, for the pur-
poSe of vifiting the Sick and burying the
dead. I never had much converfation on this
fubjedt with my particular friends, though I
have occafionally been aSked queftions about
H 3 otf

( 164 )
out Englifh church by other perfons* As
my only airii in any religious converfation
is always to promote charity, and foften,
aritipathies, I conducted myfelf accordingly"
on thefe occafions. thofe With whom I
GOnverfed infilled upon the neceffity of cbfi-
feffion. I told them our church provided
that cpnfolation for thofe: who requirtd it,
and that every feet allowed of fpiritual con
sultation with ministers pf the gofpel. This
however was not, thought fatisfactofy ; fop
Catholics confider confeffion as an indifpenSa-
ble duty. I ventured to hint the miSehiefs;
that might arife from corrupt eohfeffors, &c.
They 'would hot allow thai" any could arife,
for that fcarcely any cohfeffor had ever at*
tempted to violate his oath of Secrecy ; and
fome who had made this impious attempt
had been miraculoufly ftruck dumb ! What
appears moft abSurd to Papifts, is our King
being the head of the church ; but they for
get no abfurdity can exift, Unlefs We have
fome fixed point pf reafon to' argue from,
which all muft allow to be totally wanting
here ; nor do Eriglifhmeri underftand any
thing elfe by the King being the head of their,
church.

t 103 )
church, than that ' the Pope is not fo, I
allowed my Genoefe friends therefore to
make thermfelves as merry with this idea as
they pleafed, I really believe they felt no
thing towards me but charitable pity ; and
when I reprefented to them the more valu
able parts of proteftantifm, they feemed to
confider me as almojl a Christian; faying
probably within themfelves, " Would to God
ifhou wert not only almofl, but altogether
fiich 1"
It is remarkable that the Genoefe confider
fhe Englifh much in the farrie light as we
do them ; a referyed proud people, affociat-
ing together rather than with ftrangers.
They are much pldafed when an Eriglifhman
will enter intox their focieties, adopt their
manners, language, and fafhions, or admire
the curiofities of their town. Our manu
factures are in high requeft among them,
though they commonly follow the French
in drefs. Notwithftanding it is fo , very
ufuaji to walk in the ftreets, men feldom ufe
any other than a chapeau de bras, for it would
be indecorous to go into company with the.
hair difordered by a hat.
H4 CHAP.

( 104 )

CHA P. XXXVIII,

FROM GENOA TO TURIN,
July 30. 1 TOOK leave of Genoa with,
feelings that would have been much more
infupportable than they were, if I had been
firmly perfuaded I could never fee it again \
and while the fluggifh mules flowly crawled
up the Bocchetta, I fcarcely wifhed to haften
their pace. At length we baited at Vpltag-.
gio, and flept at Novi.
July 31. After fome time we left the
Milan road, and paffed through Aleffandria,
a very uncomfortable, looking town, which
had a warlike birth, having been built by the
followers of Pope Alexander III. when he
went againft the Emperor Frederick Barba-
roffa, and it has ever fince been perpetually
bandied about from one potentate to another.
.x ¦ . A ¦< '< - .. I'-'? ¦ ,
It-

{ 105 }
It has repofed a little" fince the king pf
.Sardinia had it, and is Strongly fortified.
As to magnificence, the town has made hut
fmall prpgrefs fince it was nick-named
Alexandria di pagliai or pf ftraw, being now
^chiefly of prdinary dirty brick. Its chief
trade is, I believe, in raw filk.
We dined at a poor place named Felizanoj
and Slept in an old dirty inn at Afti.
Aug. i, After a fatiguing ride in the
morning, the day proved fo extremely hot,
jhat we were glad to repoSe. a little at Poirino.
Not that I had the boldnefs to truft myfelf
upon any fuch animated dunghills as the
beds feemed to be ; but by placing an old
high-backed chair Sloping againft the wall,
as far from the bed as poffible, I could in
fome fort bid defiance to the nurherous fquar-
drons, black, white and brown, that were
advancing from all quarters, and which,
having no way to get at me but by the two
hind legs of the chair that touched the
ground, could not come in any- very great
numbers at once. It is literally true, that at
this fe^ifon the interftices of the brick floors in

( ro6 )
iri inns' throughput Italy fwatfrii With lleis.
Even at Genoa, though theapartrilefttis I oc
cupied wete kept tolerably clean, it was im*
poffible tp Stand a minute in any ofthe more
frequented parts of the1 hotel, without having
one's ftpckirigis covered in a marmet with
thefe troubleforrie ihfeetss
'" In the evening We arrived at Turin,
through a very rieh and beautiful _ country,
.exhibiting great variety of cultivation, and
iriterfperfed with verdant rrieadows bordered
with white mulberry trees,
Moft of the public buildings and pictures
of Turin are fo amply defcribed in every
book, travellers generally beginning- their Spe
culations ori Italy with this town, that I may
be excrifed for mentioning them in a curfory
manner only, in order to pafs on to lefs trite
fubjects. The Royal Palace, built and fitted up be
fore the time of Victor Amadeus, the firfj:
King of Sardinia, is richly, and indeed rathef
gaudily, furnifhed. Among its pictures, the
Dropfical Woman, by Gerard DoW, is not
Celebrated above its merits. The Prodigal
' Son, by Guercinp, is very excellent ; but
there

c «* y
there ig'r€#€m©fiy father tfeaa uriarfe&ai
CrihEfiliblri fxftfeffed iri fhp "Bnwlflirigne& of
the foil te enbsr his father's" htsrife. Befides-
the pictures recorded ih the Maknil, I pb-
fdtved the Queen of Sheba before Sblbiribny
a capital performance of Paul Veronefe, and
another work of the farrie painter,, the Sub
ject of Which I forget. Prince Thdrrtafc of
$avby, by Vandyke, is Worthy of all praife.
The Cathedral Would Scarcely be vifited
by ftranger*, biit for the celebrated chapel
bchittd the high altar, whete the fac'fetf
Windirig-fheet of Chfift is faid tb be pre-
letved. This chapel is of blaek rriafbie, of
0. circular form, and nbt very fpacious ; rt*
dome" Vety Singularly ugly arid whiriiSica^
bf little Segments bf atch.es piled orie upori
another, With windows in thd iriterftices.
The like is no Whete elfd to be feeri, whick
fhbfe Who have riot foen this' heed not much;
regret. La Superga is really a noble chitreli iri
one of the fineft elevated Situations in Eu
rope, five miles ffbrii Turin. Here is a
kind of college for the education of ecclefi- -
allies, who 'are called cations, and refide. here

( *o8 )
feere till they ire promoted farther. Th^
church is circular, in a great Style of archiy
lecture, and adorned with handfome marbles
ofthe country. Its beft picture is St. Charles,
Borromep ,, adminiftering the facrament to
people dying of the plague ; a performance
of great merit which Ido not find noticed ;
nor do I know the painter. There are two/
large alto-relievos, in the ftyle of thofe of
Algardi, which are tolerable, and a third
{the Nativity) much inferior to the . other
two. The Subterraneous chapel, containing
the tombs of the royal family, is oblong,
with a tranfverSe aifle at the extremity, and
yichly adorned with Piednaontefe marbles.
At the extremity of the tranfept on the left
ftands the maufoleum of Victor Amadeus
the founder. In the infcription he is ftyled
gloriofifimus, which I pointed out to the
canons, our guides, as an expreffion of doubt
ful purity when ufed in a complimentary
fenfe., recpllecting the remark of Dr. John-
fon in his Life of Milton, p. 160, note.
Pur intelligent conductors, however, affured
me this infcription was clofely imitated
from one on Trajan, to be found in Grsevius and

( *°9 )
and Gronovius, which, neverthelefs, I have"
fought for in Vain. If it be fo, our pro*
feffed critic has rather Shewn his ertmity ta
Miltbn, than his accuracy, in the note above
referred to j for although the age of Trajan
may not be of fupreme authority in fuch a
cafe, the reft of this infcription is elegant
and faultkfs; and notwithftanding Latin
adjectives in ofus, expreffiye of qualities of
the mind, are generally ufed in an unfavour
able fenfe, as religiofus a formalist, gloriofus1
a boafter, yet I believe no example can be
found of their being fo employed in the
fuperlative degree. Johnfon feems not to
have been aware of this diftinction. I do
not preSume to infift upon it, but rather wifh
for an elucidation of the matter from thofe
more in the habit of verbal criticifm, a fub-
ject on which I have now perhaps : detained
the reader too lbng.
Oppofite to the above-mentioned monu
ment is the more fumptuous one of the late
King Charles, very well executed by an artift
of Turin. This prince's body refts at pre
fent in a tomb before the altar of the chapel,
where it will remain till the prefent king dies

dies and takes its place. Thus the afhes of
the laft departed fovereign continue f^o re
ceive a mark of diftin£tiou above thofe ed
his anceflprs. The fame ceremony ufed tb
be obferved towards the kings of France at
St. Denis. So fweet are power and pre
eminence to human nature, that it cling*
even to their Shadow ! King Charles, who)
eontrived this empty pofthumous distinction
for his illuftrious father, Victor Amadeus*
thought perhaps by that means to make fome!
eompenfation for having withheld "from him
$je reility at the elofe of life ; for filial piety
can eafily be very dutiful to the dead.
The wife of Victor Amadeus, and the
three wives of Charles, lie iri niches near*
their hufbands, each of which is clofed with
a black marble Sarcophagus, bearing an in
fcription in handfome gold letters. There
are Several vacant niches. The late queea
Kes in orie near the dobf, with a rieh monu
ment, iri which is a place open for the king.
Oppofite ate niches for the prince and prin-
eeSs of Piedmont.
In the faorifty of this church we law a Sil
ver chalice bf highly laboured worfcaaaBflHpr
,u.» * the

( in }
Tlie library is not large, but contains feyeraf
huge works, fit only for public libraries..
From the. top of the dome the view on
all fides is amazingly extenfive and very
beautiful. In a clear day Milan may be
feen from hence.
Of the king's hunting ffeats I vifited only
the Veneria reale. . The palace is handfome ;
the park large, difpofed in cut walks and
avenues, but not unpleafant, being fhady and
on a large fcale. In the apartments are fome
indifferent pictures ; among others, all the
kings of France in one room, and all thofe
. .1 .1 . '' :>.' - ¦
of England in another adjoining. The lat
ter are very bad, and for the moft part void
of refemblance. , For inftance, Edward IV.
is reprefented as an old grey-headed man,
and Edward V. a man about v forty years
old! With refpect to literary and accomplished
characters, I cannot but efteem mySelf pecu
liarly fortunate in my acquaintances at Turin.
Profeffor Allioni, the father of Natural'
Hiftory here, is ftill ardent in its purSuit,
though much engaged in the practice of
phyfic, and not blefled with a ftrong confti-
tution.

C *« J
dition.. The moft" dreadful misfortune to' &
naturaiiff, a weak fight, has hitherto pre-*
vented his publifhirig an Entomolqgf'a Pede-
fnantana, for. which he has collected ample
materials. His collection of Piedmontefe
infects amounts to about four thoiifand. Yet
even the misfortune of this venerable proi
feffor1 Has turned tb his advantage in pro
curing him an honour of which, I will ven
ture to fay,- he riever dreamed; that of be
ing celebrated for fentiriient by a fair Englifh
traveller*, whofe magic pen has transform
ed the rheum of infirmity into Cryftal drops
of feritimental piety, and who., while She
performed the part of a " fe'cordihg angel,"
perhaps dropped a tear herfelf upon the pa
thetic Story of " poor dear Doctor Allioni"
— not that there is a word in it which ought
to have been " blotted out" as dishonourable
either to herfelf or to him. Her tearful tri
bute is but a return for his pretty tale of the
cryftallized fpotted trout.
I was happy to find this diftinguifhed
character, three years after Mrs. Piozzi faw
* Mrs. Piozzi, vol. i. p. 49.
him.

( "j j
ninhi ftill in the perfect enjoyment of his
abilitieSj and employing them In the fervice
of fcience and mankind ; and I hope they
Will yet be fo employed. The lois of his
friendly correspondence and communications
I Should very much, regret.
Among the foffils of Profeffor Allioni are
fome very curious petrified woods, one of '
which is penetrated with filiceous matter,
bitumen and felenite; Another piece of
Wood, very little changed, has its cavities
¦ occupied by felenitic eryftals.
The Arfenal, which I vifited becaufe it is a
Celebrated thingj and becauSe all Englishmen
are allowed to See it, was moft interesting to
me on account of its fine collection of mi
nerals of the country. The gold ores are
rich ; the petrified woods good. Among
the latter is an ineftimable Specimen of wood
that had been perforated by the caterpillar pf
Phaleena Coffus, which had < changed to its
chryfalis there, and the impreffion of the
Chryfaiis is very perfect. The cavity in,
which it lay is now lined with little eryftals,
and the various perforations, made by the
animal in its progrefs, filled up with filiceous
VOL. III. I matter,

( "4 }
matter, with which alfo the fubftance ofthe
wood is entirely penetrated, though its grain
is very dillinct. Here is a chemical labora
tory, where fpecimens of the native ores are
examined to fee if their mines be worth
working. The Cabinet of Natural Hiftory at Turin
is in its infancy, but promifes well under
the aufpices of the very able Profeffor Dana,
to whofe care it is entrusted. This gentle
man accompanied me to the Botanic Garden,
at the Royal Palace called Valentino, Situated
at the extremity of one of thofe fine avenues ,
which ferve the town for a corfo, and are
much frequented by all forts of company in
an evening. This garden is not remarkably
rich in exotics, but is well and accurately-
kept. The female Datifca cannabina forms
feeds, which, for want of the fecundating
pollen, never vegetate.
Count Canal has a little botanic garden
about two miles out of the town, where I
was Shewn Plumieria rubra flowering, and
P. alba ; Nyjfa aquatica, a fine Shrub, in a
pot overflowed with water ; and many of
the Shrubs mpft rare in our gardens. In

( II* )
Ifl the garden of Dr. Bellardi, a moft ex
cellent botanift, I Saw Mimofa Julibriffin
(Hort. Kew.) as large as a common apple-
tree, in the open ground, and covered with
its elegant flowers like purple and white filk
taffels. This tree Surely might bear our
winters, which are often milder than thofe
of Turin. Dr. Bellardi has much enriched
the Flora Pedemontana of his mafier Allioni^
and has lately published an Appendix to it.
Medicine and Surgery appear to be on a
moft refpectable footing at Turin. Dr.
Cigna, Profeffor of Anatomy, feemed per
fectly well informed about our anatomical
and chemical authors, with all the moft recent
difcoveries and observations in thoSe Sciences.
Mr. Penchienati, Profeffor of Surgery, has
diftinguifhed himfelf by feveral papers in
the Memoirs of the Turin Academy, and is
a man of much ability and acutenefs. I had
letters alfo to a celebrated furgeon named
Malacarna, whofe unaffected plainnefs and
native genius Were very ftrongly marked in
the little conversation I had with him.
The Count St. Martin de la Motte, Secre
tary to the Academy of Painting and Sculp-
I 2 ture,

( "6 )
ture, very obligingly accompanied me through
that School of the arts, which is properly
Stored with every thing neceffary for the ufe
of ftudents. Here tapeftry is made on the
fame plan as at the Gobelins, and in great
perfection. At the Univerfity is a mufeum,
not very rich, of Egyptian and Roman an
tiquities, which boafls however one unique,
curiofity, the celebrated table of Ifis, once in
the poffeffion of Cardinal Bembo, of which
Montfaucon and others have laboured fo
much to explain the numerous and complex
hieroglyphics. This table is about five feet
by three and a half ; of copper inlaid with
filver. If any antiquarian wants amufement,
he may probably find it here without fear
of exhaufling the Subject. The cabinet of
medals is rich and well arranged ; the medals
remarkable in general for good prefervation.
Here is alfo, a large library, in which I no-.
ticed a fine Manufcript of Pliny's Natural
Hiftory, and a large collection of drawings
of plants that have flowered in the royal
garden, on the plan of thofe at Paris, and
very well executed. Thefe drawings are
always

( n7 )
always quoted by Profeffor Allioni in his
Flora Pedemontana. ¦ i
The art of engraving dies for medals is in
great perfection at Turin. An artift in this
line has executed a Series of the Princes of
the houfe of Savoy, which does him great
credit indeed.
The only entomologift I met with at
Turin, befides Profeffor Allioni, was Mr.
Giorna, to, whofe liberal communications
my collection is much obliged, arid who
has all the candour and modefty of real
merit. From him I obtained plenty of
Papilio Latonia and Rumina, among other
rarities. The Mcecenas of Botany, and indeed of
general fcience, at this period, was the Che
valier de SouSa Coutinho, the PortugueSe
Ambaffador. At his table was a weekly
affembly, of literary men, in whofe conver-
fation and purSuits he bore a very intelligent
part, always making himfelf completely one '
of the company by his knowledge and en-
thufiaSm, no lefs than by his winning affa
bility. In his library I obServed moft pf our
beft and more liberal Englifh writers. At
I 3 my

( "8 )
my firft vifit I had the unexpected pleafure
of meeting the Abbe Correa, who had left
Rome fome time after me, and was now on
his way to Lifbon, where he has ever fince
been labouring, not unSucceSsfully, to Sow
the feeds of fcienc-j and literature. I heartily
hope he will live to reap the fruits of his
benevolent aims. Mr. de Soufa has now
left Turin for Vienna, which my friend Bel
lardi jullly laments*. Among the Corps
Diplomatique, to many of whom Mr. de Soufa
was fo good ' as to preSent me, the French
Ambaffador, Mr. de Choifeul, feemed the
moft accomplished. He was the only one
of the family pf the famous Duc de Choifeul
who was not involved in that minifter's dif-
grace, and had now been twenty years refi-
dent in this court. Whether the Turin no
bility are much devoted to the cultivation of
the mind I am not informed. I found a
very favourable fpecimen of, them in the
young Baron de la Turbie, who had juft
accomplished a journey to Egypt, and other
parts of the Levant, in purSuit of knowledge,
* dppendix ad Flo. Pedemont. p. 12. and

( H9 )
and then meditated an expedition to India,
about which we formed together many air-
built fchemes. But having fince married
the prime-miniSter's daughter, he is now
more likely to be diftinguifhed in the diplo
matic line.
A great trade is carried on at Turin in
raw filkj much of which comes to England.
The Piedmontefe filk being very ftrong, even
and regular in fize, and free from roughneffes
and inequalities, is peculiarly ufeful in Some.
of our finer manufactures in which that ar
ticle is combined with worfted. Manufac
tured by itfelf in Stockings, &c. it is alSo
very durable, though leSs brilliant than that
of fome other countries. The worms are
kept here, as in moft parts of Italy, by poor
people, who bring to market their little har-
vefl of cocons, which are bought up in large
quantities by perfons whole bufinefs it is to
have the filk Wound from them. This is
performed by women and children in large
airy apartments. The cocons are put into
hot water with a little gum, refembling gum
arable (as I was told), and which I preSume
is gum Senegal, or perhaps plum-tree gum,.
I 4* Five.

( !2° )
Five or fix of the threads fpun by the worm
are reeled off" together, adhering fo as to
make one ; and two of thefe compound
threads^ kept feparate, are wound at once,
The refuSe of the cocons is carded and fpun.
The operation of throzving the filk» that
is, twifling two of the above threads into
one"', is done by mills, in the country, like
thofe at Derby, Sheffield, and other parts of
England, the plan of whofe conftruction
was brought from Italy by the famous Sir
Thomas Lombe, and which need not be de-
fcribed here. -
In the town of Turin is an office, under
government authority, in which the filk is
dried, or conditioned as it is termed, previous
to its being packed and weighed, in order
that it may neither Suffer damage from
damp, nor the buyer be impofed on with
refpect tp weight by that means, as this Sub
stance is capable of imbibing much moifture
from the atmoSphere. Flere the filk is hung
up, in bunches of about a pound each, on
frames all round the room, the windows at
this SeaSon being open, and the Several rooms
all expoSed to the fun, fo that I obferved
6 Reaumur's

( 121 )
Reaumur's thermometer flood at 25 (that is,
88 of Fahrenheit) at feven in the evening.
In winter each room is kept heated, by a
ftove in the centre, to 18 or 20 ofthe fame
thermometer. The filk is obliged to remain
in this fituation 24 hours ; after which it
is taken home to the merchant's houfe, and
immediately packed in pitched cloths for
exportation. The exportation of raw filk is chiefly in the
hands of Proteftant merchants, either SwiSs or
Vaudois, the government having learned, for
its own intereft, rather than from motives of
humanity or christian charity, to allow them
to live at peace, though not publicly to pro-
fefs their religion, That privilege theSe poor
people are only allowed in their own coun
try, after every infernal means has been ufed
jn vain to deprive them of it. There they
have churches, in which they boaft that
chriftianity, pure and undefiled from its firft
promulgation, has been taught and practiSed,
There they bury their dead, and frequently
go to worfhip ; and as the inSolent Sufferance
they receive in the capital
" But binds them to their native mountains more," they

( 122 )
they all look to a peaceful retirement in the
bofom of their country, as the great object
of their wifhes for declining life.
In treating of thefe fubjects one is almoft
out of patience with ' human nature. Our
indignation at the execrable malevolence
of fuch governments, is overcome by our
contempt for their folly. How many more
hundreds of years will they reckon by the
name of the merciful Lord of all mankind,
before they learn that the methods they take
to root out truth (for I have not the charity
to believe they always think they are oppof-
ing error) are the very means of giving it
Strength ? An honed defire to be right, too
apt to decay in the lap of eaSe and prosperity,
thrives with moil vigour in adverfity. Or
even if, according to the vulgar opinion, there
be merit in mere belief, it muft be greateft
when that belief is attended with danger:
there can be little value in the moft perfect
orthodoxy, embraced for the fake of eafe or
emolument. Perhaps therefore authority
would moft effectually, though indirectly,
promote purity of doctrine, together with
hbnefty of principle, by. felecting dbfurdity
- » for'

( 123 ')¦"
for its patronage ; and indeed one is fome-
times tempted to think this is really its plan.
However that may be, it is certain that the
exercife of undue authority over the mind "
ever counteracts its own intentions. I be
lieve our eftablifhed church of England is
more pure and correct than others, very
much in proportion as it is more free from
a perfecuting or dogmatical fpirit ; for it is a
trite obfervation, that pofitivenefs and want
of temper are Signs of weaknefs of argument
and error of judgment.
My departure from Turin was haftened
by a very tempting invitation from Mr. jde
Soufa to join a party of naturalifts, who
propofed to fpend a few days on Mount
Cenis. This was not to be refufed ; and in
deed the infufferable heat of Turin, where
Reaumur's thermometer flood, on the 4th of
Auguft, at twenty-fix and a half or twenty-
feven ( 92 of Fahrenheit), made me long to
climb the fnowy fummits of the Alps, which
tower above the plains of Piedmont, bound
ing them on the north like a vaft wall.
Their neighbourhood is the caufe of the
fevere cold often felt at Turin in winter, where

( ^4 )
where ice two or three inches thick is form
ed on the meadows overflowed for that pur
pofe. This ice, Stored in reServoirs, proves
a moft comfortable refource in the heats of
fummer, and feems one of the neceffaries of
life. Juft about dinner-time every body's
Servants are feen carrying difhes of folid ice
from the public offices where it is fold ; and
it is enough pure and clean to be mixed in
fubftance with every thing that is drunk. It
was now almofl impoffible to walk out in
the day time ; and even after dark thofe
fides of the ftreets where the Sun had Shone
felt- like an oven.
Perfons of any fort of figure feemed to
me to ufe their legs very little here at any
time. A carriage is efteemed quite neceffary
to a gentleman ; and when I wifhed now
and then to make a Sriendly vifit without
ceremony, I was told it would ruin my re
putation for ever to go on foot, or at beft
could only be excufed bn the Score of my
being a ftranger ! Nor are the Turin peo
ple lefs ceremonious in drefs. A vifit to a
Superior cannot poffiblv be paid without a
fword ar.d chapeau.de bras I
,-:.--u French

( i25 )
French is very generally fpoken here. The
PiedmonteSe is So wretched a jargon as to be
quite unintelligible to ftrangers ; but there
are very few of the town's people who can
not fpeak either French or Italian fo as to be
underftood. In the markets of Turin I bought the
berries of Cornus mafcula, the Cornelian
cherry, which are pleafantly acid, and in a
fcarcity of grapes are ufed in the country to
make wine of.

CHAP.

( 126 )

CHAP. XXXIX,

, FROM TURIN. TO MOUNT CENIS— '
SAVOY— GENEVA.
Aug. ii. ABOUT eleven at night I fee
out from Turin along with Mr. de Soufa,
Dr. Bellardi, Dr. Buonvicino a mineralogist,
and the Abbe VaSco a natural philoSopher.
Aug. 12. Early in the morning we found
ourfelves among the narrow paffes about the
foot of the Alps, with majeftic Scenery in
termixed with cultivation, and here and there
a not very flourishing village. Palled through
Suze, the key of Piedmont, which of courfe
is very ftrongly fortified ; its baftions are
cut out of the live rock. The country grew
more hilly and romantic at every ftep. At
the miSerable village of la Novalaife we were
obliged to quit our carriages for mules ; and
after a tedious afcent by a zigzag ftony road,
no

( 127 )
no way dangerous however, we reached the
top, that is, the plain of Mount Cenis, to
wards, noon.
Within about a mile of the fummit I
foundijuncusfliformis in a wet place on the
left of the road, and Lichen polyrhizos on a
rock near it. Not far from hence, on a fmall
plain before we arrived at the great one,
- grew Bartfa alpina in feed, Trifolium agra-
/"MOKof Linn. (Dickfon'sDriedPlants,No. 8o),;
widely different, from that of English writers,
and many other rare plants. On our right
a magnificent caScade fell clofe to the road.
All along a great part of the way I had ob
ferved various alpine fpecies of Anemone and
Pedicularis, moftly in Seed, with a novelty of
appearance in the herbage highly encourag
ing, and a luxuriance at which (having no
idea of alpine paftures) I was SurpriSed. I
lamented only the advanced Slate of thefe
plants, rand feared we were too late for the
feafon ; but when 1 found, the plain of
Mount Cenis all flowery with the rareft al
pine productions, fuch as we delight to fee
even dragging on a roiferable existence in
our gardens, and the greateft'part of which,
¦'. -x diSdainful

( 128 )
difdainful of our care and favour, fcorft id
breathe any other air than that of their na-*
tive rocks, none but an admirer of nature"
cart enter into my feelings. Even the moft
common grafs here was Phleum alpinum^,
and the heathy plain glowed with Rhodo-
dendrum ferrugineum and Arnica montana.
Well might Clufius fo beautifully Say—
" Non carent altijjtmi montes prceruptique fco-
pulifuis etiam deliciis * ;" nor need one have
the fcience of a Clufius to feel pleafure in fuch
fcenes. Scarcely any traveller paffes the Alps
in fumfner without either lamenting the " neg
lect of his botanical ftudies," or more honeftly
regretting that he had never attended to this
Source of pleafure at all. I have long ago
perhaps tired the reader with my admiration
of the works of art. If he has had indul
gence enough for me to get thus far, he muft
now lay in a frefh ftock of patience while
I expatiate on the productions of nature ;
unlef%Jie fhould chance to be a botanift, and
then all 1 can Say will not Satisfy his curiofity.
* " The moft lofty mountains and moft rugged
precipices are notWithout their own peculiar charms.*'
(Cluf. Panon. 316).
Dr.

( !29 )
Dr. Bellardi and myfelf were accommo
dated at the Hofpital, built for the reception
bf travellers in bad Weather, which is now
under the direction of an abbe named Tua j
the good father Nicholas, fo much celebrated
by Lady Miller, being, dead long firice. This
is a good ruftic fort of inn ; fo far from be
ing intolerable, that the Englifh Ariibaffador,
Mr. Trevor, and his Ladyj had lately refided
fome weeks here ori a party of pleafure. Mf.
de Soufa and the reft bf our company took
refuge in a tent not far diftant; belonging tb
the Chevalier de St. Real, then Intendant of
the province of Matf rienne, arid now of the
valley d'Aoft, who with an ihgehibus young
officer of Chambery, Mr. Martinel, had
fpent feveral Weeks here, and as many in
the preceding fufrttnef, in order to investigate
thoroughly the geography and natural hif
tory of the environs, In fociety like this,
no kfs pleafarit than inftfuctive, and amid
fuch fcenery, the time paffed but too quick
ly ; and I could not but regret the impoffibi-
lity bf my fpending the three following Sum
mers here with the worthy Intendant, who
had allotted five years in all for the accom-
VoLi Illi K plifhment

( 13° )
pllfhment of his undertaking* «# His obferva-
tions muft be ineftimable ; but it was thought
the whole would hardly be given. to the
public, as the Sardinian court very juftly ob
ject to making their French- neighbours too1
wel acquainted, with all the Secrets of their
natural bulwaric. •
This hofpital .Stands by the high-road fide
half way over thej plain,, which is at leafl.two
miles in length; and about the middle, which
is "its broadeft part, it may be a mile acrofs.
It is entered- at each extremity by a narrow
pafs, and furrounded on both fides with-
very lofty mountains capped with eternal
fapw. -The plain itfelf is, full of inequalities.
Towards the northern extremity are two or
three beautiful lakes, with an r$and in the
principal one clothed with Shrubs and rich*
pallurage. This lake empties itSelf to the
fouth by a fmall river, whofe rocky channel
often forms considerable cafcades bf great
beauty, and is overhung with luxuriant her
bage, and Shrubberies of Rofa alpina,Mefpihut
(or rather Crataegus) Chaintfmtfpiius, Sec, &c.
This part of Mount Cenis is feldom vifited"
by travellers £ but, being within a moderated :walk .

{ i3i )
walk from the poft-hoiife or the hofpital,
richly deferves attention. On the other fide
of the rivulet, about the bottom bf the hills,
are fome alders, which, being fheltered by
the craggy rocks, attain a considerable height;
btherwiSe no tree in general, not even the
fir, grows to any fize So high ori the Alps.
A little farther up are moft delicious paftures,
Interacted with alder thickets, and bordered
with Cacalia alpina, Aquilegia alpina, Ranun
culus aconitifolius , Sijyfnbrium tanacetifolium,
Pyrold minor, Juncus Jpicatus, and other ra
rities. l This beautiful Aquilegia, which far
exceeds our garderi kind, was very fparirigly
in flower, and I am obliged for its detection
tb my faithful attendant Francis Borone,
Who here imbibed that tafte for botany
ivhich afterwards led him to Sierra Leone ;
and by whofe acutenefs and activity I have
often profited.
Some little hillocks on the left of the front
ofthe hofpital are covered with Rhododendrum
ferruginmm, among which grew Pyrold ro-
tundifolia, and in the clefts of rocks the very
rare Saponaria lutea (Smith Spicileg. bof.t.j).
Here I firft found -Lfchen cucullatus-^ TranS.
K 2 of

( 132 )
of Lirin. Soe. vol. i. 84, t. 4, f. 7, which t
am aftonifhed any body can confound with
L. nivalis : the latter too grows here, as does-
L. ochroleucus, Dickfon fafc. crypt, iii. 19,
Defcending towards the river Icame to a
moft delightful little valley, like the vale of
Tempe in miniature, with a meandering ri
vulet, fcarcely three or four feet broad, run
ning through it, and bordered with abrupt
precipices not much more in height, in which
were feveral fairy caves and grottos, their
entrances clothed with a tapeftry of mantling
bufhes of Salix reticulata and retufa. Thefe
dwarf willows grow clofe preffed to the rocks,
whether horizontal or perpendicular, almofl
like ivy, and may be Stripped off in large
woody portions. By the rivulet, which
iffued in Several Streams from thefe caves,
was a profufion of Anthericum calyculatum
and Leontodon aureum, , with many other
things equally Urtcoinmon, and in full bloom.
Aug, 14. We all fallied forth on foot
about five in the morning to afcend little
Mount Cenis, one of the' moft -'considerable
hills that front the hofpital on the other fide

( 133 )
fide of the lake. Purfuing a winding path
through the thickets, we came to a few cot
tages, in furely one of the moft retired ha
bitable fpots in Europe, and which probably
are feldom four months in the year uncovered
with fnow. Yet at this feafon who would
not have envied their fituation ? No low
land Scenes can give an idea of the rich en
tangled foliage, the truly enamelled turf of
the Alps. Here we were charmed with the
purple glow of Scutellaria alpina ; there the
grafs was Studded with the vivid blue of in
numerable Gentians, mixed with glowing
Crowfoots, and the lefs oftentatious AJlrantia
major and Saxifraga rotundifolia, whoSe blof-
foms require a microfcope to difcover all
their beauties ; while the alpine rofe, Rofa
alpina, bloomed on the bufhes, and, as a
choice gratification for the more curious bo-
tanift, under its fhadow by the pebbly margin
of the lake, Car ex fliformis prefented itSejf.
The riches of nature, both as to colout'and
form, which expand fo luxuriantly in tropi
cal climates, feem here not dirriinifhed but
condenSed. The farther we afcended, the
more every production lefferied. By the
K 3 fandy

( 134 )
fandy bed of a torrent, which rung from the
glaciers above, the very elegant Saxifraga
icefia feemed to emulate- the gliftening of
the hoar froft about it.
At length about eleven o'clock we reached
a fmall plain full two-thirds of the way tp
the top. Here we divided. Some of our
party were adventurous enough to climb thq
very fiimmit ; but being already got to the
utmoft limits of vegetation, and near thofe
of perpetual fnow, I had no bufinefs higher.
Indeed this plain appeared to be clothed with
a fhort barren turf that promifed Uttle ; nor
was it till I examined it on my hands and
knees, that I difcovered this turf to be a rich
affemblage of Cherleria fedoides, Alchemilla.
pentaphyllea, Chryfanthemum atratum, Genti-
ana nivalis, and other diminutive inhabitants,
of the higheft Alps, among which one of
the moft beautiful is a dwarf variety of the
common Eye-bright, Euphrafa officinalis^
with large purple flowers.
This plain was occafionally funk, on the
margin of the declivity, into little hollows,
Watered by very fmall trickling rills, and
there vegetation appeared extremely luxuri- ant.

( 135 )
ant. ABartfa alpina, Was here but in flower,
along with Satyrium nigrum ; the latter
.fmelling like Vanilla. I obferved a pair of
Papilio Apollos in this exalted region, flutter
ing about and celebrating their, innocent
.nuptials,
- After enjoying from hence the view cf
the plain of Mount Cenis, with the lake and
woods about it, we defcended on the fide
fronting the hofpital, and arrived there by fix
©'clock, not a little fatigued, having been all
day on our legs, without any refreshment
except what a fervant had carried with us ;
Jbut I believe our Satisfaction much exceeded
our fatigue.
Aug. 15. This day Dr. Bellardi and my
self afcended the hill called Ronche, imme
diately behind the hofpital, where, Profeffor
Allioni firft difcovered Viola Cenifa and
Campanula Cenifa. Dr. Bellardi found them
this day, though, I was not fo fortunate;
nor did I meet with any thing very definable
except Junius Jacquini ; and in the boggy
fides of a little rivulet, in the very higheft
part pf the mountain, a little Carex of great
K 4 rarity,

( 136 )
rarity, the juncifolia of Allioni's Flora Pede-
montana. This is certainly the fame fpecies
as Lightfoot's C. incurva, though on the Alps
its ftem is feldom curved. I have it alfo
from Iceland. Juncus triglumis grew along
with it-; and in other parts of the hill Curex
fastida of Allioni, and C. atratat with Antir
rhinum multicaule.
Before the poft-houfe are fome remark
able white limeftone rocks, on which grow
Dianthus virgimus, and the real Feftuca
Jpadicea (fee Tranf. of Linn. Soe. vol. i.
p. m). Below thefe rocks by the lake I
gathered the moft beautiful Gentiana afclepi-
adea, and in the furrounding paftures Agro-
fema Flos Jovis, Senecio Doronicum, Afer
alpinus, Ceniaurea uniflora,, Arnica mqntana,
and the Rumex arif alius of Linnaeus's Supple
ment, which laft is, I prefumej more cer
tainly a native of the Alps than of Abyffinia.
Immediately before the- hofpital is great
plenty of Rumex alpinus, and a little farther
on I joyfully waded up to my knees in a
fwamp to gather Swertia perennis. All the
plain abounds with the beautiful Dianthus
alpinus, the leaves of which differ fo much in

( m )
in narrownefs and fharpnefs from the Au-
ftrian one, that I have fometimes fufpect-
ed them to be diftinct fpecies. Nothing
however, is more common on Mount Certi&
than Dryas oEtopetala, forming thick tufts
many feet in breadth, covered with its ele
gant flowers and feathery heads of feeds.-
On this elaftic alpine couch we frequently
repofed when tired with walkirig, and the
delicious temperature of the air made any
fhelter perfectly indifferent.
Such are a part of the botanical riches of
this interesting mountain, not to mention
numerous fpecies of Arenaria, Silene, Achil
lea, AJlragalus, Juncus, and graffes of vari
ous kinds. Of all thefe treafures I laid in as
large a ftock as I could well bring away,
multiplying my own enjoyments in the an
ticipation of the pleafure I fhould have in
Supplying my friends at home. The felfifh
dealer in myfteries and fecrets, the hoarder
of unique fpecimens, knows nothing of the
beft pleafures of fcience.
Aug. 1 6. My Turin friends returned
Jjome ; but as Mr. de St. Real and his com
panion

jpanion were to take leave of their alpine
abode a few days after, I was induced to
itay, and accompany them into Savoy. To
thefe gentlemen I am obliged for the follow
ing measurements :
Tmfes. Fr.feet. Eng. feet. '
The height ofthe furface of >
T *the lake of Mount Cenis * 962 5772 6151
¦ above the fea is J „ 
Hofpital — ¦—. 996 5976 6369;
Summit of little Mount Cenis 1557 934? 9956
po. of Roche Melun, the-}
ihigheft hill in the neigh- £ 1873 1123$ 11977
bourhood 3 ,..."; J
On the top of this hill, which is more
{ban three times as high as any in Britain*
grows Geum reptans or G. montanum, I could
not, from the Specimen I faw, exactly deter
mine which. In order to reach phis elevated
fpot, even from the plain of Mount Cenis,
One day is not fufficient. Mr. de St. Real
and his friend were obliged to pafs the night
in a chapel built a confiderable way up Roche
Melun, and which is itfelf fo difficult of
accefs as to be fcarcely vifited more than once
a year by fome of the neighbouring peafants, Aug.

( m )
Aug. 1 7. This day the mountaineers be
gan to foretel, by certain Signs beft known
|to themfelves, the approach, of bad weather,
and the conclusion of their tranfitory fum-
mer. We profited of their hint. The tent
was furled, and our departure fixed for the
next day. In the afternoon I had the fubliriie
fatisfactiop, of contemplating the coming on,
of an alpine Storm. The wind began to rife
in the north. Small denfe clouds, entered
the valley at that end one by one, Silently
polling themfelves about the bafes of the hills
pn each fide, and waiting there till the gar
^hering tempeft advanced in all its majefty,
when thefe little fcouts or out-guards joined
the main army of clouds and Storms in its
progrefs along the plain.
Aug. 1 8. A dull but not rainy day, we
defcended toLanflebourg after dinner on foot,
for the fake pf botanizing. I turned afide
into the fir fprefts on the left, where among
trickling moffy rills grew the beautiful Pyrola
uniflora in flower, which fmells exactly like
Lily ofthe valley, with P. minor axi&fecunda
f n fruit ; alfo, among other things of lefs
note,

( *4° )
note, Viola biflora and the real Melampyrum
fylvaticum of Linnaeus. Towards Lanfle-
bourg I obferved Sambucus racemofa full of
red berries, and Gentiana cruciata.
Mr. de St. Real faved me from all trouble
and impofition by arranging every thing, re
lative to our conveyance, with the Commis,
at whofe houfe we fupped. The whole of
our journey to St. Jean de Maurienne was
nothing but a fucceffion of vifits,
Aug. 19 (Sunday). After the pious part
of our company had heard mafs, we left
Lanflebourg, and proceeded along a tolerably
level road, through a mountainous and rocky
country, to a little town three or four miles
diftant, where we dined with a pretty large
party at the habitation of the Cure. Salvia
glutinqfa was here in flower by the road fide.
After dinner we proceeded on foot with moft
of the party to a houfe a mile diftant, and
then continued our journey through a very
romantic valley, paffing the lofty cafcade of
la pu celle, to the houfe of' another of the
Chevalier's acquaintances, who works a lead
mine. Here among other company was a
£r€?at

( Hi )
great cultivator of animal magnetifm, at
whofe whimfies, when not too contemptible,
we laughed among ourfelves. The men
fubmitted to his experiments without effect,
for want of faith, and the ladies could not
be perfuaded to fubmit to them at all. The
mere propofal excited fuch terror in them,
as to be fufficient to account moft abun
dantly for any confequences that might have
followed if they had been magnetized.
Aug. ao. We arrived by dinner-time at
the fpacious old manfion of the Chevalier,
in the town of St. Jean de Maurienne. In
the afternoon we had various vifitors. The
ladies were obliging enough to entertain us
with Songs, fome of them in a ftyle of free
dom, which in more refined, though perhaps
not more innocent, countries, would be
thought worfe than indelicate.
Aug. 21. Dr. Marcoz, a phyfician and
botanift, conducted me to a place called
Roche noire to look for Cypripedium Calceolus
(Ladies' Slipper), but it was eritirely wither
ed. I gathered here on trees Lichen fatur- ninus.

( H2 )
hums, Tranf. of Linn. Soe. vol. i. 84 j and
all the fhady clefts ofthe tjeighbouring rock*
abounded with the moft beautiful Melampf*
rum nemero/um ywhofe red and yellow flowers,:
amid fky-bke arid purple bractese, form the
richeft combination poffible, which, but in
the hands of Nature, Would be tawdry. Well
might Linnaeus efteem this plant worthy to
decorate the palace of Flora herfelf (Fh.
Suec.J. I found alfo a Car ex whofe capfules
refemble the feeds of Coriander, arid which
I cannot determine in any fyftefnatic author.
It appears to be figured in Plukenet, tab. 91.
fig. 2. ,
After dinner we vifited the Bifhop, who
talked much with me about the Englifh
language, our celebrated writers, our ftyle of
gardening, &c. on all which Subjects he
feemed well informed;
Aug. 22. F took leave of my kind hoft,
and travelled poll to Chambery, through a
pleafant and romantic country. The distance
is fix polls and a half ; the expence (as I had
no carriage of my own) amounted to five
livres a poll, with twenty fous to the driver,
.' which

( 143 )
which are five more than he could lawfully
dernand. A voiturin undertook to convey
me to Geneva for two louis d'or. There
was fome little demur with the poft-mafter,
as every traveller who comes to a place by
the poft muft, by law, remain twenty-four
hours before he can travel with a voiturin ;
and I believe by the fame law, if he comes
with a voiturin, he cannot immediately take
the poft. The reafon of this I am unac
quainted with ; but the voiturin fettled the
point by fome means or other, and we left
Chambery without delay.
The Manuel mentions this as the " dreary
capital of a very dreary province;" but I have
feldom feen a more beaufiful, nor apparently
a richer, country than on this fide Cham
bery, It confifts of corn-fields intermixed
with chefnut groves, and rifes gradually oti.
the right and left to the mountains, whofe
fides are clothed with Wood, and Studded
with villas and hamlets. The road is excel
lent. We flept at VEcu de France, the firft
ppft, a moft comfortable neat little inn.
• From the Specimen I had of Savoy, I can
not fay much to the credit bf its inhabitants in

( 144 )
in general as to neatnefs, any more that!
mental delicacy, which I believe go very'
much together. In the higher ranks un
equal marriages (as to age) are very com
mon, which is not a favourable omen of the
morality of a country. :.
Aug. 23. I reached Geneva in the afterf
noon. By the road fide the elegant and fra-
grant Dianthus fuperbus, ragged Pink, was
in bloom* The Suburbs of Geneva are very
extenfive and populous* We entered the
town without any examination.
The firft thingl heard here Was everybody
in the ftreets finging airs but of Rouffeau's
Devin de Village, which is often acted here j
and his portrait with various honorary devices
is to be found in every houfe and fhop. What
do, we learn from hence? That the more pub
lic opinion is mifled for a time, and made the
tool of unjuft perfecution, it afterwards, with
the more violence, takes a contrary bent,.
when once it finds itfelf the dupe of defign-
ing villany or bigotry ; efpecially as cruelty'
is the moft deteftable of vices, all focialf
crimes being black in proportion as they'
partake-

( H5 )
. partake of it. And as power combined with
cruelty is the moft odious form in which
human nature in Society can appear, who
ever Suffers from its malignity, naturally ob
tains our pity and indulgence, and we ex
aggerate all his merits. Hence fome cha
racters acquire celebrity with very weak pre- ,
tenfions ; and hence even the belt perhaps
have often providentially derived a fplendour
and authority which human virtue and wif-
dom are in themfelves feldom unmixed or
exalted enough to deferve, and Still more
feldom conSpicuous enough to the (( Swinifh
multitude " to obtain. Let it be remember
ed therefore, by all whom it may concern,
.that difcuflion can never finally injure truth,
nor perSecution root but error; that the way
to render a people truly religious and truly
loyal is to make them intelligent and happy ;
and the government which does this in the
greateft perfection, whatever its form may
be, need fear neither atheifts, revolutionists?
nor levellers ; while all thofe which fail in
thefe points, have fo far in themfelves the
feeds of their own destruction.
., Geneva is too well known to render a de-
Vol. III. L Icription

( 146 )
fcription neceffary. The ftately Rhone,
¦ ruihing out of its lake in the middle of the
town, is a magnificent and indeed a tremen
dous object. The inhabitants of the trem
bling houSes around muft Surely be in con-
Slant dread for their children playing on its
brink, and indeed for themfelves in dark or
flippery weather. Some of the ftreets, con
fiding principally of Shops, have the foot-
Way fheltered by a very finguiar kind bf
wooden arches, called domes, as high as the
roofs of the houfes. They are exceffively
clumfy, and make the houfes very dark.
I had many vifits to pay at Geneva, and
was much pleafed with the livelinefs and ge
neral intelligence of the people, which re
minded me of our large commercial towns
in England. The women are for the moft
part handfome and well-made, much fuperior
in this refpect to the men. It is a favourite
amuSement here to fing fatirical fongs againft
the Catholic religion to the old Calviniftic
pfalm tunes, and that even on a Sunday.
The church pSalmcdy itfelf is very much in
the Sternhold and Hopkins Style, and the
mufic not unfuitable. " But

( M7 )
** But pitying Heav'n the mind alone regards,
And tuneful fouls, not tuneful founds, rewards.
Oh happy fouls, to whom fuch grace is giv'n,
That founds infernal make them dream of heav'n !"
This town poffeffes rnany celebrated lite
rary characters. I had the pleaSure of at
tending, along with Dr. Butini, jun. a fort
of medical conv erf azione, compoSed of the
chief phyficians, who meet every Saturday
at each other's houSes, and take it hy turns
to give an account of what remarkable cafes
may have occurred In their practice* Dr.
Butini, fen. very eminent in his profeffion,
and a candid well-informed man, fpoke of
the effects of Lacerta agilis, the common
lizard, a very popular medicine at that time
in Geneva for cutaneous complaints, and,
like all popular medicines, for many others*
It is remarkable however for hurting the
lungs; occafioning coughs and fpitting of
blood. The muScular parts only of the
animal are taken raw in a bolus as Soon as
killed, and prove violently fudorific. Such
is the account I heard. The good effects of
magiftery of biSmuth, in SpaSmodic disorders
of the ftomach, were likewiSe mentioned.
L 2 The

( 148. )
The dofe is four grains four times a day.
It is faid to be perfectly innocent, notwith-
flanding Mr. Fourcroy's SuSpicions, in his
Elemens de Chymie.
Mr. Tingry, an apothecary and excellent
chemift, has a capital collection of minerals.
His filver ores, particularly Luna cornea, are
extremely fine, as are the different forms of
FeldtSpath found at Mount St. Gothard by
Father Pini.
Mr. Tingry conducted me to Mr. De Luc,
the brother of our great and amiable natural
philofopher of Windfor, in order to fee his
fuperb cabinet of Shells and extraneous foffils.
Among the former are feveral nondefcripts,
and among the latter an Echinus in flint with
its fpines, which when found feparate are
called the Lapis Judaicus ; alio a moft curi
ous and undoubtedly new Species of Turbo,
allied to the wenteltrap (T. fcalaris), but
not fo long ; its ribs are clofer together, and
the circumvolutions contiguous. Mr. De
Luc's minute foffil Shells are alSo numerous
and fine.
The celebrated hiftorian of Geneva, Mr.
Senebier, was fo kind as to Shew me the
public

( H9 )
public library, which is not very large. The
moft curious things are feveral manuScript
maps by BenincaSa, dated 1476, in which
fome of the Weft Indian iflands, as Cuba,
are delineated, though, if this date be au
thentic, the maps are anterior to Columbus's
firft voyage. The tablets of wax contain
ing an account of the houfehold of Philip
le bei of France, and a manufcript of St.
Auguftine's epiftles on papyrus. On all
theSe things Mr. Senebier has published.
This gentleman is alSo distinguished for his
experiments relating to the phyfiolpgy of
vegetables. But the moft illuftrious philolopher of
Geneva, Mr. Bonnet, muft not be forgotten.
I vifited him at the village of Genthod, on
the north-eaft banks of the lake. He re
ceived me with the greateft kindnefs ; and
though almoft deprived of fight and hearing,
he converfed long and moft instructively on
our favourite Subjects, affording a frefh proof
of the truth of what I have obferved in
fpeaking of the venerable Father Jacquier at
Rome (vol. uv p. 60). His moft remark
able observation, that the vegetable circula-
L 3 tion

( !*> )
tion may probably be one day detected, I
have elfewhere recorded (Phil. Tranf. for
1788, p. 164). He believes the ftyle of
vegetables is always perforated, and gapes to
admit the pollen. Mr. Bonnet told me the
quarto edition of his works was much more
correct than the octavo, and concluded his
difcourfe with an earneft exhortation to pur-
fue the phyfiology of vegetables, in prefer
ence to nomenclature, though I had even
then but juft experienced the neceffity of the
latter, having been utterly unable to make
this good man underftand what I meant by,
Berberis vulgaris (not happening to recollect
the French name Epine vinette), about which
I wanted much to talk to him, and on which
he himfelf has fo parti-cularly written. Surely
experimental naturalists are greatly obliged
to thoSe who help them to know one thing
from another, for want of which knowledge
one of the moft famous of their tribe took
young fnails in the aqueduct of Genoa for
a Tremella, and then (which is no wonder)
proved it to be of an animal nature.
Having made fome attempts in both thefe
different, walks of fcience, I may prefume to
fay

( TJI )
fay it appears to me, as the objects of natural
hiftory are fo immenSely numerous, and So
intricately connected, that to excel in me
thodical arrangement requires more clearneSs
of judgment, more acute difcrimination in
the mind, than is neceffary to attain all that
has yet been attained in phyfi'ology ; and I
believe none ever defpifed the Systematic
part of this fcience, but thofe who had either
never considered it at all, or who had labour
ed in vain to acquire it. The moil able and
ingenious people that I know in either de
partment, are invariably thofe who equally
refpect both.
In the garden of a Mr. Sion, well flocked
in exotics, chiefly from theFrench collections,
I for the firft time faw in flower Pajfiflora
incarnata, the firft fpecies of Paffion-flower
brought into Europe, though now the P.
ceerulea is become infinitely more common.
Juft So the Tropceolum, majus has taken place
of the minus in England, though the latter
only is cultivated in all the courts and bowers
of Geneva.
I had an interview of a few minutes only
with Mr. De Sauffure, who was then juft
L 4 deScended

( *5* )
descended from the fumnrit of Mont Blantft
His expedition is too well known to need
any illustration here.
I fortunately met at Geneva with the cele
brated zoologift, Profeffor Zimmerman bf
Brunfwick, who was travelling with a young
Englishman of quality. We had indeed
met at Venice. Geneva always abounds
with Englifh travellers, who naturally enough
affociate together. But it is more advifable
for the young, who go abroad for instruction,
to Seek the company of the intelligent and
accomplished natives of the countries where
they are, rather than to be eternally defpifing
all that is not Englifh, and labouring perhaps
to make up a miserable horfe-race, or fome
fuch diverfion, which after all can be but a
bad Substitute for what they have in greater
perfection at home.

CHAP.

( *53 )

C H A P. XL.

GLACIERS OF SAVOY — MARTIGNI — SALT
MINES OF BEX — LAKE OF GENEVA 
LAUSANNE — BERNE — GRAVE
OF HALLER.
Aug. 36. 1 UNDERTOOK an expedition,
indiSpenSable to every naturalift or admirer
of Iandfcape who comes to Geneva, that of
the circuit of the lake by the Glaciers of
Savoy. The firft night I Slept at Salenche,
paffing a very pleaSant evening with two
gentlemen who were returning from the
country I was going to vifit, and Whofe
mules and guide ferved me the next day.
Aug. 31. I began to enter on the alpine
fcenery, proceeding along the valley till the
road led acrofs a very high hill. Paffed a
moft beautiful little lake on the left, fmooth as

( 154 ) ,
as a looking-glafs, bordered with velvet banks
and hanging groves, juft like a piece of
water in a* pleafure-ground, and finely con
trasted with the rugged objects around. This
lake empties itfelf under a bridge over which
the road paffes, and the water is precipitated
down a very craggy channel into the valley
below. At Servos, a village at the entrance of the
valley of Chamouni, I called on Mr. Excha-
quet, Superintendant of the neighbouring
mines, in order to fee his model of the
Glaciers and valley of Chamouni, and was
extremely pleafed to have fuch a compre
hensive view in miniature of the noble fcenes
I was going ±o admire. This model is
carved in wood, and coloured ; the ice being
well imitated by broken glafs. Its fcale is
abput a line to 18 toifes, that is 15552 times.
lefs than the vaft original !
From hence the road leads through the
valley, or rather along the north fide of a
hill, part of the ample bafement of Mont
Blanc. The fcenery became more and more
fublime and picturefque ; vaft woods of fir
hanging above and below me, whpfe gloomy colour

( 155 )
colour was Strikingly contrasted with fertile
meadows, and with the towering mountains
which crowned the whole, capped with eter
nal fnow.
When I had baited at the little fequeftered
town of Chamouni, 1 examined the Glacier
of Boffons the fame evening. After a long
painful afcent through the fir forefts, where
however I gathered Pyrola minor andfecunda,
and caught CerambyxSutor, I croffed the gla
cier or valley of ice. Every one muft be
ftruck with the novelty, beauty, and grandeur
of this fcene : rocks of the mpft Spotlefs
fnow, or rather icej oppofed to the vgloomy
groves around ; the clear blue fky ; the re-
. fulgence of the fetting fun on the mountain
tops ; the filent valley beneath already ob-
fcured with the duSk of the evening. I ad
mired the fea-green or blue colour which
appears in the clefts of the ice, and drank
of the pure water that flows in thefe clefts,
and forms as it were fprings in the icy
rocks. This water is excellent in tafte, and
the guide affured me it was the moft whole-
fome of all water ; in which he is more likely
to be right than thofe who gratuitoufly fup-
pofe

( i5<5 )
pofe goitres to be owing to the ufe of fnoW
Water, and who " ftrut in the livery and brafe
buttons of the ancients, and call their fervi-
lity learning *."
Sept. i. A bright frofty morning, like out
weather in the end of October, I afcended
the hill called Montanvert, whofe top looks
down on the fineft of all the glaciers, the
Mer de glace. <
Having gone a confiderable way through
*
the pine forefts, and the road becoming too
bad for our mules, We were obliged to pro
ceed on foot. Here grew Afrantia minor,
and plenty of Lichen aphthofus in full fructi
fication. After a very long difficult afcent,
we reached one of the Summits of the hill
above moft of the woods, commanding the
Mer de glace', which with the high peaked
rocks above it, and the black woods below,
formed a fcene beyOnd defcription. We
deScended the fide of the hill and walked a
confiderable way upon the ice, but found it
impoffible to go to the extremity, called the
,. * Richardfon's Grandifon, vol. i. letter 12.
8 Idc

( *57 )
lac du Tacul, it being three hours walk,
Neverthelefs I do not doubt but we fhould
have thought our pains Well repaid had the
day been long enough for the, undertaking.
I was obliged to content myfelf with this
view of the icy ocean, which fomebody has
well compared to a fea inftantaneoufly frozen
in a violent Storm. It is bounded on every
fide, except at the outlet towards Chamouni,
with towering granite jocks called needles,
fo fteep and pointed that no fnow can lie
upon them. Their Summits are fo flender
and full of cracks, that one would expect
every froft and thaw Should Shiver down
fragments of their points ; but they are faid
never apparently to change their form. On
the margin of the Mer de glace I gathered
the beautiful and rare Lichen croceus, and on
a perpendicular rock that overhangs it Gen-
tiana purpurea. The root of this Gentian
is full as bitter as the G. lutea ; it ferves the
fame medical purpofes as the latter in fome
countries, and, a Ship from Norway, once
brought a quantity of it to Edinburgh,
where it was ufed with good fuccefs, and
found its way into the Edinburgh Pharma copoeia,

( *5$')
coporia by the name of Curfuta, a Word which
has puzzled all etymologists, but which
I conceive to be a corruption of Skar-sote
(Mountain foot), its Norway name. See
Gunner's Flo. Norveg. 46.
We afcended again the eminence we had
juft left, and dined on fome cold provifions
in a little hut built a few years ago by a Mr.
Blair, at a fmall expence, to accommodate
travellers, for which he merits the thanks of
all thofe who vifit this fpot. Two poor
women, who had of their own accord ac
companied us, treated us with Strawberries
and rafpberries juft gathered on the hills,
and employed themfelves with knitting while
we flayed. They received a fmall gratuity
with great thankfulnefs, and dined on our
bread and cheeSe, for it being Saturday, they
would on no account touch meat. In this
neighbourhood grow feveral good Lichens^
among others L. encaufus, Tr. of Linn. Soe.
vol. i. 83,^ tab. 4, f. 6, which my worthy
friend Mr. Davall has fince found near Orbe
in Switzerland. The neighbouring inhabi
tants are allowed to cut as much wood as they
like in thefe forefts, for paying a fmall an
nual tax to his Sardinian majefty. By

( ^59 )
By another road we defcended to the
fource of the river Arveron, which owes its
origin to feveral caScades falling from this
glacier, and probably to fome fprings belbw
it. In the fir wood on its banks lay a huge
cubic rock, many yards broad, which had
rolled down from the mountain not many,
years ago. Smaller maffes of flone, fepa
rated by frofl, frequently fall down into the
valleys along with portions of ice in the
fummer. The branches of the trees in all
thefe forefts are hung with feitoons of Lichen
divaricatus, and their trunks ornamented
with the real L. juniperinus of Linnseus, not
that of Britifh writers. All the rocks in the
valley abound with umbilicated Lichens, as
pufulatus, probofcideus , and polyrhizos, or
velleus, for 1 believe they are one and the
fame. Sept. 2. The valley of Chamouni is doled
at its eaflern extremity by a high mountain
called the Col de Balme, which we were
therefore obliged to crofs. Its fummit com
mands a noble view both ways. The valley
of Chamounilay like a map at our feet, with
§ Montan-

( 160 )
Montanvert crowned by the majeftic Mont
Blanc on the left hand, and feveral glaciers
interSecting the fir woods in different places
below. The boggy turf of the Col de Balme
afforded me many rare plants, which in lefs
elevated fpots flower in the early part of
fummer, but which here were now in bloom,
as Cardamine bellidifol'ia, Azalea procumbens,
Juncus f lif ormis , Veronica alpina and aphylla,
the latter being only in feed, among many
things found on Mount Cenis. We walked
. down the hill through a very romantic old
foreft, and flopped at a little hamlet in the
valley, whofe houfes were built in the moft
maffy Style, not of boards but of huge beams,
very neat and comfortable .within, in the
form of their apartments not unlike a Ship,
We dined truly in the paitoral manner on
eggs, milk, butter and honey. This valley
abounds with the moft luxuriant herbage,
JnterSperSed with many ftately plants, as
Gentiana lutea and Veratrum album. It is in
fuch places only that the larger alpine vege
tables are found, and they grow much more
luxuriantly here than in any garden. We
had afterwards another rugged hill to climb ;
and .

( ttt )
arid then defcended on the other fide to
Martigni by a very bad fteep road, but amid
fuch fcenery as
" Made a paftime of each weary ftep.".
¦ Here I firft gathered Potentilld rupefris^
by the road fide. Martigni is' a pretty little'
town, fituated at the -entrance of the valley
which bears its name, and of which we had
a noble view in defending the hill. This
valley is watered by- the Rhone-, and bounded
on each fide by lofty and very abrupt hills.
, Tt feerried about- a riiiie in . breadth, ve^y
level, arid, extends eaftWard a long way to
wards. Mount St. Gothard. On our right
was san alpme pafs, leading to the great
Mount St. Bernard;"-- s  . .:
Therinn at Maftighi is riot unaptly called
la grandee ma fon.- ."-It is quadrangular, with1
a court' in the centre, furrounded by a clumfy
colonnade, and' 'Wag built, as the landlord
told m;@,:to receive a Princefs of Piedmont
about 700 years%gb. Nothing could be a,
better theatre for a romantic tale of chivalry
and apparitions. On a' rock in this toWn:
are the remains of a -Roman fortrefs. The
. Vo*} III. M country

i 162 )
country is very beautiful,, planted with chef-
nut and other trees, and the foil feems rich>
Sept. 3. Our road lay northward along
ihe valley which makes nearly a right arigle
with that of Martigni, and like that is wa
tered by the Rhpne in its way to the lake
of Geneva. .We croffed the Durance, which
is here very rapid, and about two miles far
ther the Nant du Trient, a river that appears
to fpring from a vaft chafm iri the rock on
the left. A little farther on is the beautiful
cafcade filthily, though not undefcriptively,
named Piffe Vache, which burfts forth from
an opening about half Way, up the perpen
dicular rock. The fun now formed a rain
bow in its fpray at the bottom. Papilio An
tiope was here flying about, and many large
Grylli. Geranium palufre. grows in the
ditches. We foon reached St. Maurice, a
pretty confiderable town, with an old bridge
of one arch over the Rhone, which we
croffed, and entered the Ganton of Berne,
and. two miles farther came to the village of
Bex. Here my fervant found a Proteftant French
prayer-

( 163 )
prayer-book in the kitchen, where God was
addreffed in the finguiar number, tu, at which
he was exceflively fcandalifedj Catholics al
ways praying in the plural, ag being moft
refpectful. This was my firft opportunity
of giving him a lecture Pn Chriftian charity,
for «to that alone do I ever try to* make con
verts. Let me not in the mean time fin
againft it myfelf, by neglectirig to record the
liberality of this young man's confeffor at
Milan ; who in giving him inftructions, of
which no divine need have been afhamed,
when he heard he had engaged himfelf to
an Englifh mafier, told him, fimply, " not to
neglect his religion as too many people did
in England," but never mentioned bur faith
being different from his, nor Was he ac
quainted with this circumftance till I in
formed him of it.
Bex is chiefly famous for its falt-works,
which are eafily acceffible on a civil applica
tion to the director.
The firft part Shewn is the batiment de
graduation, a long fhed, covering a vaft pile
of fmall flicks, laid loofely upon each other,
fo as to form a fort of filter. The falt-water
M 2 as

( *H )
as,it cpmesi from the mine, is conveyed by
pumps to the top pf thefe, flicks. •, andas they
are open on all fides to.the air, though Shel
tered from rain, in trickling through them
about- half the pure water evaporates, and
the brine 'collected, in a large ciftern below
fit for boiling, is twice as .ftrong as before
this operation, containing about $5 per cent.
•weight of fait. A calcarebus cruftis like-
wife gradually, deposited, on thefe flicks, and
wfien overloaded with it. they are changed
for new ..ones. Tn -a place adjoining are
cauldrons for boiling the brine. till the fait /is
, ciyftallizedTrom if. '
From hence about half an hour's ride up
the mountain, among very pleafarit fields
and groves, .brought us to the firft mine.
This isj entered by a Subterraneous gallery,
hewn out of the folid rock, leading to a well
of a vaft depth, out of which the Salt-water is
pumped. ; Here, too we were Shewn a Stu
pendous refervoir, 100 feet long, about 50
broad, and fc\ea or eight in depth, like wife
cut out ofthe rock, to hold water for. work
ing in winter, when the pumps are fometimes
Stopped by froft.- ;; At

( i6c )
At fome difla-nce "farther up the* Kill" Is the
principal mine, which we entered by a very
longpaffage or gallery cut in the rock. The,
huge wheel which Works all the pumps is
really Stupendous/ When one confiders
that it has been conveyed piece- meatthrough
a fmall paffage in the rock above,'and that
the vaft cavity in which it turns-, -with all
thefe dark wells and paffages,t have been
hewn out of the "live Stone, which is of no
incOrifiderable hardnefs, the whole -is i;orie of
the moft ftriking monuments bf human iri-J
duflry; -• "-- ¦" ' ' ¦ ¦-'";¦."'<<'
Thefe works -are Supplied :£rbrh- feveral
fprings-of Salt-water, fonte of them Sulphu
reous ; but the Sulphur evaporates, in the
batimerit- de graduatibhx, and Such fprings are
not efleemed inferior to the pure- fait ones.
The Stone from' 'which all thefe waters run
is foft and black.^-' The mines are, faid to
yield feveri or eight thoufand quintals per
annum.- A quintal is one hundred pounds;
of eighteen ounces to the pound. This fait
is ufed chiefly in the Canton of Berne. It
is prohibited in Italy, and the French and
0ermans do not want it. I was- afterwards
M 3 informed

( 166 )
informed that thefe mines are kept up for
oStentation only ; that the government lofes
by them, and the country is really fupplied
in a great meafure with French fklri
i Sept. 4. From hence I fent back the mules
pf Chamouni, hired at Sajenche, .with their
owner, and proceeded to Ville-neuve in a
(bar a banc, a finguiar fpecies of vehicle, in
which one rides Sideways very little raifed
above the dirt or duft of the road, and quite
open to it. The valley here is dilated into
a moft beautiful tract of country diverfified
with fields and trees, bounded on each fide
with a variety pf mountainous and rocky
fcenery, and terminated by the lake of Ge
neva, into which the Rhone enters at its ex
tremity clofe to Ville-neuve. ,
, Often had I, in various places, imagined I
had found fcenes equal to any thing Switzer
land could prefent ; but when I came to this
celebrated country itfelf, I was obliged tb
pwn it far fiirpaffed my expectations. No
where is there fuch variety of magnificence,
harmonioufly combined with fo many fofter
charms j fuch lakes, fo be&utifully bordered ;
. -:..:. fuch

( i<7 )
fuch varied and luxuriant verdure ; fo grace
ful an outline, and "fuch a diverfity of hill
artd dale, mountain and valley, from the
gently undulating corn-field and vineyard,
to the moft rugged and Stupendous precipice,
towering above the dark impenetrable foreft,
and crowned with eternal fnow.
A boat conveyed me over the fmooth blue
Surface of the lake to Vevai. Clouds hung
about the middle of the hills, but the fun
Shone, bright, and there was fcarcely a, breath
of air. Clarens, immortalized by Rouffeau,
is a little village crowned with a romantic
old, manfion-houfe, which I conceived might
have been Julia's refidence, and could not
help remarking a high and abrupt part of
the Shore, not far diftant, as the Spot where
her maternal fondnefs might probably have
colt her her life. On the oppofite banks I
contemplated the blue rocks of Meillerie, and
longed to vifit them.
Vevai is, a pretty little town, of whofe
fituation Aberli's charming print gives a very
accurate idea, with Ville-neuve, Clarens,
Meillerie, and all Ihave juft been deScribing.
It was market day. The people looked
M 4 , cleanly,

( -^8 :)
cleanly, bufy, and cheerful, and I fancied1
myfelf in England, .from this, place < to
Laufanne the road is narrow and bad, ; but
bordered with pleafant vineyards, and com-
manding fine views of the lake. , It remind
ed me fomewhat of the riviera ,or coaft of
Genoa. Laufanne ftands in the moft delightful
fummer fituation that can be imagined j the
view from , the principal church, once the
cathedral, is particularly beautiful. . Many
Englifh are generally refident here, and th§
, accommodations for Strangers are very con*
venient. I "yifited the celebrated phyfician Mr.TIf-
fot, though unprovided wich letters of in
troduction, and found him a tall thin, man
about fixty years of age, not unlike Profefc
for Gbuan of MontpeUier. He received
me at firft with great ftiffnefs, taking me
probably for a patient, but was afterwards
very polite and conyerfible. He fpoke with
fome afperity of the great ignorance of the
prefent Roman and Venetian phyficians, of
which I have heard other accounts, not per
haps altogether falfe ; but I beg leave here to
offer

( i% ;)
\. \ •*
finer one remark on the differerice bf opiriioa
among phyficians of different countries, ast-d
the treatment ofthe fame diforders-*,- Every
phyficiau knows befy, the nature of thelcli-
jmateand of the prevailing difeafes ; of,. the
country where be has moft ftudied and praci
tifed,.and.pan judge, of their type (ifl may
ufe a technical word); better thari any-; fo
reigner, ; -In tome countries, for inftance,
bleeding is more advifeable in fevers than in
others; in Italy consumptions are found to
be very .contagious, though lefs evidently fo
in Englandv .In fome places the evening, in
others the night, air is ; unwholefome, and
dangers, of which we do not dream,: are to
be apprehended from the cheerful beams of
the fun. Hence the advantage of travelling
to a medical, man pf a penetrating difcrimi-
native mind, and its danger to a fervile plod
ding copier, who does What he fees other
people do, without knowing the reafon why,
and thinks a j unable of.-indigefted bbferva-
tion will ftand him in the ftead of experience*
Oh, Nature ! . how merciful .art thou, to be
fp feldom j diverted from thy good purpofe
by anything- we can do, though ever ready tp

¦( J7° )
to be afliftcd by us ! and what a kind veil
haft thou caft over the real fuccefs of our
endeavours !
Mr. Tiffot prefented me with a little pam<-
phlet of his own on the Vapours, of which
he had juft printed a few copies to give away.
It is a Sketch of an intended more ample
work. ' 'In converfation he did great juftice
to the late Dr. Cullen, though he differs from
him in fome theories.
I had letters to Mr. Van Berchem, jun. an
ingenious botanift, author ofthe Journal d 'an
Voyage dans la haute Faucigny, with whom
I drank tea in the Englifh manner, and met
Mr. Reynier, mentioned in that work, a
young man of great ardour, who thought
he had obtained fertile feeds from a flower
of Alcea rofea, though the ftamina and ftyle
were cut away before it expanded. He
feemed to be convinced of the accuracy bf
his experiment, arid to be much fatisfied with
rits refult. Thofe who have any doubt on
this fubject, ought, to repeat fuch experi
ments with great care. I have not hitherto
been ftaggered by any of them, but that is

fl£no

( 17' ) .
oo reafon other perfons fhould rely on my
opinion. The mail diligence conveyed me to Berne,
eighteen leagues diftant, in about eleven
hours, by night, arriving there in the morn
ing of Thurfday.
Sept. 6. This was a faft-day, the only one
in the year obferved here. The occafion I
know not. The fhops were fhut; moft
people at church, and many in mourning.
There are few prettier cleaner towns than
Berne, nor many whofe public walks are fo
charming and fo varied ; particularly that
out of the gates, from whence Aberli's
view of this town is taken, and from whence
rite fnowy Alps, in the centre of Switzerland^
make a noble appearance, efpecially when
tinged with gold by the Setting fun. In the
wood at the end of this walk Ablcea fpicata
grows wild, and Buxbaumia aphylla.
The Falcon is an excellent inn, with a good
table d'hote, at which I became acquainted
with one of the fons of the great Haller,
who refembles his father (as I was told) in
perfon, fondnefs for botany, verfatility and
-6 even

( w )
^venrftrength of genius ; but not altogether
in application. -'¦'-•"¦ - >
I was much indebted to the poiitenefs of
Mr. Wyttenbach, one of the chief ^clergy
men of this place, a moft eftimable charac
ter, who has cultivated natural hiftory (espe
cially mineralogy) with much SucceSs. We
vifited together a Mr. Spriingly, at a Small
ditftance from the .town, who has -nearly a
complete ebllection of the Swifs birds, arid
a very choice cabinet of Shells.
.Criminals may be feen in the ftreets here
chained and drawing dung-carts; as delineat
ed in Mr, Howard's book on PriSons. Thefe,
it is to be preSrimed' have merited their fate,
and it is to be hoped will be amended by it;
but what can the poor bears have done, tp
deferve being kept prifoners of State in the
ditch of the town ramparts, except having
the misfortune to make a figure in the arms
of Berne ? Ancient cuftom oecafions them
to be maintained here at the public expence,
and they afford no fmall amufement to paf-
fengers, whp look at them from the, road
over a parapet wall, Their keepers . attend
them fearlefsly in the area where they run
loofe

( *73 )
loofe about ; but one of thefe poor people
accidentally waiting upon them one day in
his holiday clothes, to which they were not
accuftomed, was in a moment torn to pieces.
I one afternoon was prefent at the' funeral
of a lady iri the principal burying-ground.
Her hufband attended, with a large company
befides. The relations aecompariied the
corpSe to -the grave ; the reft of the party
remained in the Street talking. The coffin,
made of wood blacked, without ornament
or infcription j was laid in the earth, and im
mediately covered up ; no prayers were faid,
nor did it at all refemble a religious ceremony,
except that the company kept their hats off
while in the burying-grbund. Surely this
is running into an ill-judged extreme. With
out any" idea of prayers being of Service to
the dead, they may be highly uSeful to the
living; and a funeral appears to me a moft
favourable opportunity of impreffing the
mind with wholeforne reflections, which a
good moral legiflatiire ought not to neglect.
They never bury in churches here, in which
we Should do well to imitate them ; nor do
they often erect monuments, or mark the
i- 5 Jpot

( '74 )
Spot of the interment of any one. I ob-?
ferved but two memorials Of this kind, one
of them for Fabricius Hildanus, the Surgeon.
The illuftrious Haller lies undiftinguifhed
in this cemetery. I inquired in vain for the
exact fituation of his grave *. He was not
popular in his own country, having imbibed
notions in Germany not exactly fuited to its
republican fpirit ; but his name will live
when changes now unthought of fhall have
taken place ; when Switzerland may be en-
flaved or deferted ; or when on the contrary
her banners of virtuous liberty Shall
" Gather in their fhade the living World."
The omiffion of a monument to Haller
is, however, a lefs reflexion upon his coun
trymen, than the fale of his famous and very
capital library and herbarium to the Em
peror, the very fame year that they expended
more than the fum for which it was fold, in a
firework at Berne, to celebrate, I know not
what marriage or birth of one of fhe Auftrian
* Since my vifit to Berne, this fame fpot has received
tlie aflies of the celebrated naturalift and traveller
Ferber. family i

( '75 )
family ! Surely Haller could have had rio
more fervility than this ! Nor dp I believe
this impeachment of his character can have
originated in any thing elfe than party ca
lumny; for his beautiful poems certainly
breathe a very different fpirit, and are no lefs
manly in fentiment (perhaps to a degree
which fome might term the enthufiafm of
liberty) than rich in imagery, and ii\
" The pure and precious pearls of fplendid thought."
They were Written indeed before he went to
Germany, but often republifhed afterwards
under his own infpedtiori.

CHAP

( ».?« )

CHAP. XLT.

TOMB OF, MRS. LANGHANS-^B ASLE-
STRASBURGH— NANCY. TO PARIS.

£eptA8: IN the evening I fet out -in the
diligence for Bafle, and arrived . there to
brea%L , ,,;;.,,,,_ , ,ii(i .,
A few miles from'Berne puffed the church
of Hindelbanck, where I 'Should have been
glad to have flopped, had that been poffible,
to vifit the monument of Mrs. Langhans,
fo well known by a fine French print, ' and
by an Englifh one after it. Of its hiftory
however I heard more than is commonly
known in England.
This lady was the wife of the clergy
man of the parifh, and a very beautiful wo
man. The fculptor, whofe name, if ever
I heard it, has efcaped me, refided fome
time in her hufband's houfe, and was fut
pedted

( *71 )
pected of being fecretly enamoured of he?
charms. He was employed to erect a mau*
foleum in this church for fome great man of
the neighbourhood, which, when finished,
the taftelefs heirs caufed to be dawbed over
with paint and gilding. This treatment of
his performance fo mortified the artift, that
he refolved to execute fome work on the
fpot which fhould entirely draw off all at
tention from the tawdry bauble by which he
thought himfelf difgraced. He accordingly
gratified at once his revengeful and his tender
feelings by executing the monument of Mrs.
Langhans, who died juft at the time. She
is repreferited with her infant in her arms
riling through the horizontal tomb-Stone,
which appears as if broken by her effort,
and eafily yielding to let her pafs. It is not
of marble, but of the common Stone of the
country. The epitaph in German is only
this : " Here I am, oh Lord ! with the child
that thou haft given me." A thought wor
thy of the monument.
Bale or Bafil. is an old irregular town, ill—
paved,but the houfes almoft as neat as in Hol-
land.TheThree Rings isan excellent inn,with
Vol. III. N a very

( 178 )
a' very pleafant open gallery, in Which I dined
at the table d'hote, with a fine view of the
river. The Rhine is here about as broad
and rapid as the Rhone at Lyons, and milch
refembles that river. The dinner hour is
half paft eleven, true time, which the peo
ple of Bale, from an ancient cuftom peculiar
to themfelves, are pleaSed to call half paft
twelve, their clocks being always kept an
hour forwarder than their neighbours'.
The moft memorable thing in the princi
pal church is the tomb of Erafmus, a plain
red marble flab, with an infcription in gold
letters, beginning Deo Triuno, but too long
and tedious to copy. In a kind of cloifter
adjoining I recognized Some monuments of
the Bauhiiis, but their epitaphs are much
effaced. This cloifter is in great ufe as a
burying-place. Near it is a delightful little
publie walk oa a very high terrace, com
manding the river and town with the rich
country around.
The public library is particularly intereft- -
ing, on account of various relicks of Eraf
mus and his friend- Hans Holbein ; and the
Profeffors. are always ready i one or other of
"'¦ tbem,

{ '79 )
them, to Shew it in detail to ftrangers of cu
riosity. Of its various treafures Dr. Youngc
had informed me by letter, and Ffound no^
thing had efcaped his accuracy. This li
brary was founded ahout 300 years ago, and
is a very good one. There is a room full of
paintings and Sketches, chiefly by 'Holbein*
arid m his belt rrianner. The Paflion of our
Saviour in eight feparate compartments, ap
parently intended for the doors of a fmall
organ, feems as frefh as if done yefterdayi
The countenances have not that great ftiff-
nefs remarkable in moft paintings of this
date (about 1520), and the colouring is fine:
The Laft Supper is a larger piece, with.
figures nearly the fize of life, the characters
of which are well expreffed, and the colour*
ing very admirable. There is a moft capital
miniature of Erafmus by Holbein, and an
other portrait ofthe fame eminent character1
writing, a profile, which Still Seems, to think
and to write ; truer representations of nature
than thefe two pictures can fcarcely any
where be found. The marginal drawings
by Holbein iri the Eulogium Stultitia are
what have been engraved, except One which
N 3 I do

( i8o )
I do not recollect in the printed copies, of
Mars and Venus awake in bed, and Vulcan
putting a chain round them, to which they
make no refiftance. Here are alfo the Will
of Erafmus. in his own hand-writing; the
manufcript .Decree of the Council of Bafil
for the fufbenfion of the Papal authority;
and, among the printed books, the Offices of
the Romifh Church by Full, dated 1459, the
firft book, ever printed with moveable types.
In the houfe of a Counfeljor Pfyfch (Fifh)
I was Shewn a collection -of pictures and
drawings well worthy of notice, chiefly of
the Flemifh fchool, among which is an ad
mirable Sketch of the Refurrection of Laza
rus by Rubens. There are alSo a few Italian
productions ; two pictures by Raphael in his
earlieft manner, and a juvenile performance
of Andrea, del Sarto, Stiff but very delicate.
Above all I admired the original drawing by
Raphael of God the Creator with out-Spread
hands, Separating the light from the dark-
neSs, as painted in the Vatican. This draw
ing is much Superior to tlie painting, and
Shews the genius of Raphael in great perfec
tion.
One

( i'8i )
, One of the moft capital print-Shops in
Europe is at Bale, belonging to Mr. Mechell.
The famous painting of the Dance of
Peath is ftill to be feen on the wall of a
church-yard in this town : the -figures are as
large as life. Death is reprefented Seizing
each rank and condition in a different way.
This finguiar performance is faid to have
been executed by a pupil of Holbein, but
probably after his own Sketches. There are
feveral different editions, if I may fay fo, of
the fame defign in print. One of them in
wooden cuts was obligingly given riie by
Mr. Touchon, minifter of this parifh. The
compofition and figures of it are fimilar to
the painting, but not the fame.
Mr. Bernouilli, an excellent chemift and
mineralogist, has a handSome general cabinet
of Natural Hiftory. I obferved a piece of
petrified wood, with the agate nuclei of two
frefh- water fnails attached to it, and petrified
along with it. Alfo one or two very good
drawings of birds, marked G. H. faid to be
by Holbein ; but this cannot be Hans Hol
bein, unfefs he meant to write his christian
name in Italian, Giovanni, N 3 Dr,

f( i8a-;)
Dr.Socin, Profeffor of Natural Philofophy,
a very ingenious wellTinformed man, was
phyficiarrtp the latePrinceSs of Heffe Gaffel,
daughter, of King George 11. He'fhewed
me two . very interesting experiments : one
of 'firing gunpowder with the electric fluid
in very fmall quantity, by interppfihg. a glafs
tube with its in fide moift in any, part ofthe
conducting" chain, and So making, the com
munication weak, in that part ; the other of
firing touch-wood with, a , concave ihirror
and -lighted charcoal,' as defcribed by himfelf
iri: Rollers Journal for October, 1785, page
268. The celebrated botanical Profeffor, Mr.
De Lachenal,. allowed me to infpect the her-
bariurri ofthe Bauhins, which he bought for
a mere trifle, after it had long lain neglected
in a garret, and had in part been demolished,
The remainder he has incorporated with his
own. The Specimens are, loofe, with loofe
tickets. Mr. De Lachenal was a great friend of
Haller, arid gave confiderable affiftance to his
great work.: He is faid to have lPng been
meditating a Flora, Helvetica, according to
the

( *H )
the Linnaean fyftem. His botanical library
is one of the beft I ever faw, and he was fo
kind as to prefent me with a copy of th,e
firft edition of Columna's Phytobafanos, that
rare book which I had fought for through
Italy in vain. His copy of Rivinus has the
Orchidese, though Haller's (he fays) had four .
plates more than his, Moft copies finifh
with the Pyrolee.
Dr, Younge fpared me the trouble of
hunting for curious botanical books at Bale,
having taken that pains himfelf to no pur
pofe, One crufty old fellow wondered he
fhould afk for fuch things there.
Sept. 12. The diligence for Strafburgh
fet out at fix in the morning. We flept
within one poft of that place, and arrived
there next day to breakfaft,
Dr. Herman, Profeffor of Botany, received
me Very cordially, and we fpent the firft
morning together in his mufeum, I have
feldom converfed with a man of a more acute
or more enlarged mind, tp which his publi*
Cations on zoology bear ample teftimonyk
Nor was I lefs obliged to Profeffor Schurer,
N 4 teacher

( i»4 )
teacher of Natural Philofophy,' the friend of
Profeffor Oriani of Milan. His apparatus
feemed very gopd,
The botanic garden here is among the
beft^furriifhed academical gardens, which are
riot generally the richeft. Public affairs are
not often fo well conducted as private ones.
Rich profeffors feldom have much zeal, and
zealous ones often want money or encou
ragement. Ample funds, extenfive corre
spondence and intereft, with a Superintendant
of unbounded zeal, activity, and knowledge,
ean alone make and keep up a good botanic.
garden. Dr. Lawth, Profeffor of Anatomy at Straf-
burgh, is a man of ability, and has heen in
England. Every body has heard of the cathedral of
this town, and its fpire, the higheft in Eu^
rope. The Structure of the latter is very
light elegant Gothic, in perfect prefervation,
of a browflifh ftone, harder than marble.
From its top, to which I afcended, is a very
extenfive view, but the furrounding country
is flat' and uninterefting. The infide of the
church is large, but not handfome. Its fa
mous.

( 1 85 )
mous old clock is much out of order; nor
did I fee any of its puppet-fhews. This
church, like that of Antwerp, was originally
intended to have two fpires, but only one
has been completed., . . :
In the Proteftant church of St. Thomas*
the monument of Marechal Saxe is Shewn
to all travellers. This was executed by Pi-
gale ; it much excels his performance at
Notre Dame for the Comte d'Harcourt, and
would be regarded with admiration even in
Italy. The figures are of white marble, as,
large as life. Death is fummoning the Mare
chal to the tomb ; France ftrives in vain to re
tard his defcent, and he marches intrepidly to
wards the yawning Sarcophagus, while Her-,
cules, Standing by, leans on his club in a
mournful pofture. I defcended into the
vault below,where his body, wrapped in lead,
refts in a ftone Sarcophagus, This monu
ment has' not been finifhed . many years.
When it was firft diSplayed to public view,
the body was removed hither from fome
other church with great pomp. The wall
at the back was then hung with black, which
perhaps had a better effect, than the prefent.
ground of grey marble. Louis XV. wifh-

( 186 >
irig tQ horibur this hero, as he deferved, with
a fplendid funeral, had no place in his domi
nions, except Strafburgh, where it could be
done with propriety, the Marechal being a
Proteftant. In this town', by the peace of
Ryfwick iq 1697, -Proteftarits and Catholics
obtained equal liberty, half the magiftrates be-!
ing- always chofen of one religion, and half
of the other. I was told they acted together
in great harmony, and that religious animo-
fity Was not prevalent here. Pity but this
calm had continued ! but that could hardly
be expected in the prefent agitation pf poli
tical Opinipns around.
In a fmall room adjoining to the church
of St. Thomas, are the embalmed bodies of
feveral German noblemen* in handfome
pewter coffins, with glafs windows over the
faces of two of them. They look black an,d
hideous like mummies,
Sept. 15.. I left Strafburgh in the Paris-
diligence ; the price is four louis for an inr
fide place, and the time employed in the
journey five days and one night. My com
panions all the way were a, French Sculptor- with

( i87 }
with his wife, young child, and dog; but %ve
took up arid fet down Various perfons by
the way, fome of them very entertaining:
Among others we met with a nun of the
refpectable order of la Cfharite, already riierta
tioned (vol, i. 142), whom I Should have'
thought no lefs intelligent than amiable, but
for one unlucky difcovery. A genteel young
officer of our party, who had been, in Eng
land, and was very polite in hi$ cbnveffation
refpecting bur country, endeayoiired.togive
this nun' a charitable opinion of us, though
heretics. She heard him long with apparent
pleafure^' afking now and then fbrne peftir
nent queftiohs ; but at length, " I thought,'*
faid She; if all the people irt thofe hot coun
tries had been black." This' curious anc?
unexpected fpeech leading to farther expla
nations, we found the good woman really as
ignorant of all that related to England,, ex
cept that the people were heretics, as we are
pf the internal parts of Africa, and even
more fo, for She had riot the leaft idea of its
fituation or diftance. I have met with in
credible instances of bigotry and ignorance
jn my own beloved country, efpecially in
3 Lpndpnjj

( *88 )
London, and even among thofe who can
read and write ; but not quite equal to this.
I cannot help remarking that fuch inftances
are often accompanied by great rectitude of
intention, and, as in this nun, with much be
nevolence, where the infanity of prejudice
does not interfere.
Our road lay through the elegant little
town of Nancy, built by the depofed King
of Poland, Staniflaus. It is exactly like a
piece pf fcenery for a theatre, or a thing
prepared on purpofe for fome public fhew.
I called on Mr. Willemet an eminent
apothecary, and his fpn the Profeffor of
Botany, who is now I believe phyfician to
our great Indian adverfary Tippoo. Here
is an indifferent botanic garden, with a buft
of King Staniflaus its founder, infcribed with
the fpllpwing pretty diftich ;
*' Inter vitales herbas, fuccofque falubres,
,c Quam bene flat populo vita falufque fua,"
Nothing material occurred till our arrival
at Paris on the evening pf September 19.

CHAP,

( iSS )

CHAP. XLII.

PARIS IN RETURN.

L/ N returning to Paris, many things which
I had either not feen at all, or feen in a
hurry, demanded my attention ; the pleafure
of vifiting them was doubled by the com
pany of a belpved brother, to whom every
thing here was new. I was furprifed to find
wliat rude fhapelefs maffes the ftatues of
Verfailles appeared, how inaccurate their out
lines, and how rugged their furfaces, to dn
eye juft come from ftudying the antique.
This difference is peculiarly fhocking in the
marble copies of celebrated ftatues. The
antique Cincinnatus however, iri the palace,
atoned for all thefe. , „
' In the apartments I obferved fome very
excellent pictures. The gallery of Le Brun
' - ' 'is

{ *9<> )
is well known by the prints, and furely
merits great praife as to compofition, what
ever we may think of the vain tyrant whom
it was meant to flatter. This flattery is the
more delicate, though perhaps the more for
cible, for its being the hiftory of Alexander
which is here deUaea,ted, vyhofe figure is
every where the portrait of Louis XIV.
He indeed was worthy in beauty of form,
as well as in extravagance of mind, to per
forate " Macedonia's madman."
Vandyke's portrait of Charles I. is among
his belt works. ! Perhaps that at Hampton
Court maybe equal, if not Superior, to it;
but k is difficult to afcertain fueh a point by
memory. The death of St. Francis, by Anriibal Car
racci, ftruck me very much, as did a charm
ing -peFformanee of Domenichino's remark
able for its lights. The Subject I do not re
member. There were two very large pieces by Paul
Veronefe, and many other excellent pictures.:
In the Qjaeen's apartments, which were
Very rich, I obferved a vafe of gold, and
another of lapis lazuli, prefented to hef
Majefty

( *9* )
Majefty by the city bf Paris on the birth ©£
the Dauphin. The laft-mentioned was one
pf the largeft pieces bf that ftone ever known,
though not of a fine colour. The King's
bed-chamber contained a porphyry buft of
Louis XIV. which muft have coft infinite
labour in wprking it, the ftone being fo very
hard. What is now become of aU thefe treafures
I know not. They are probably difperfe<l
like thofe of the Garde -Meuble in the Plage
de Louis XV. which ufed to be open to pub
lic infpection on the firft Tuefday of every.
month, and contained a prodigious quantity
of Gobelin tapeftry, Some after Alexander's
battles by Le Brun, and fome of filk inter
woven with gold. There was alfo a great
deal of curious armour ; among other things
the armour of Philip de Valpis, Francis I.
and Henry II. We fancied a •little injury
might be perceived in the part over the
right eye of the latter, and thought this might
poffibly have been the armour he wore at
the fatal tournament. The affemblage of
vafes of cryftal, agate, and other precious
ftones, was one bf the richeft I have feen.
There

( 19* )
There were' alfo fome good antique arid
modern bronzes, and above all the precious
Roman Shield of filver, found in the Rhone;
with all its fculpture in perfect prefervatiori.1
Of all thefe fine things, and, alas ! ofthe
noble monuments I have defcribed at St.
Denis, we can now only fay they were — the
admirable ftatue of Henry IV. on the Pont
Neuf, that too is no more I In lamenting
their downfall, and the concomitant events,
much as we may admire and venerate the
arts when confecrated to virtue, it is not
merely the destruction of fuch monuments
that wev deplore ; it is the vaft wreck of hu
man happinefs that engroffes " every pang
of fympathy" — the innocent confounded
With the guilty — the difperfion of families —
the diffolutibn of the fweet bonds bf focial
intercourfe. . Even the chaftifements of un
bounded vic"e and depravity are become fo
terrible, that we Stand appalled at their irre-
fiftible unrelenting Severity, even till eompaf-
fion arifes for their abject victims. The'
world impatient'ly waits to fee Frenchmen
atone for all this. If they finally obtain a
good government, its greateft merit will be
that

( *93 )
that of rendering impoffible for the future
fuch actions as Shall have led to its establish
ment. — But I mean not yet to enter on this
Subject. Some previous remarks on the
French nation are neceffary.
We vifited the celebrated Orleans collec
tion of pictures at the Palais Royal, the
Flemish part of which have Since been exhi
bited in London, and therefore need no de
scription here. The St. John of Raphael I
have already twice mentioned. , The famous
group of the Virgin fainting, by Annibal
Carracci, is a diminilhed copy of part of the
picture of Daniel de Volterra, at the Trinita1
dei Monti at Rome. This copy is very ex-,
cellent, much Superior in colouring to the
original. A fine print" of it is extant.
The 9th of October was the day of St.
Denis, when every body flocked to the fair
at the town which bears his name, and the
relicks ofthe abbey were all expofed in pomp
to the fight arid veneration of the faithful.
Amorig them appeared the head of the Saint
in a rich cafe, and the nail of Chrift's crofs,
likewife magnificently fet. I believe one of
thefe relicks is about as authentic as the other'.
Vol. Ill, O Many

( *94 )
Many volumes have been "written for and
againft the identity of this head ; but it is fo
good a head to the monks, they muft be the
moft foolifh and perverfe of all heretics to
have any doubts concerning it, or not to
labour ail in their power to imprefs the peo
ple with their own falutary belief. All the
chapels were fet open this day, fo that the
monuments could be infpected at leifure.
Our return to Paris in the evening was a
moft curious Spectacle, the great avenue be
ing crowded with every fort of vehicle that
can be conceived. The moft general were
carts with boards nailed acroSs by way of
feats, and the company was by no means
filent. They feemed to emulate each other
In ftraining their throats with all forts of
ribaldry. On the 23d of October we were prefent
at a very different fcene at the Englifh nun
nery. A young lady from Cumberland that
day took the veil, She had a year before
jriade her profeffion, the manner of which,
ceremony J have defcribed in Speaking pf
Venice, vpl, ii. 386. The taking the veil is.
th? final irrevocable fcene, which concludes ths

( 195 )
the existence, in a manner, of the fair victim
as a member of fopiety. By it She becomes
dead to the world. The monaftery is her
tomb, and this awful ceremony the celebra
tion of her funeral.- Every part of it -is
contrived to imprefs this idea. She is after
a while extended on the cold ground, wrap
ped in a large flowing robe of black, and
folds a crucifix to her breaft. In the mean
time the mufic and the fervice are Suited to
fo folemn an exhibition. No wonder that
moft of the Spectators were in tears* and
that fome ladies of her acquaintance were
almoft too much affected to flay in the
church. We obtained admifiion to this curious and
affecting Spectacle by the favour of a nun of
this monaftery, to whom I had a letter from
one of my moft worthy friends of the Ca
tholic perfuafion in England. I had often
been ufed, during my firft #ftay in Paris, to
vifit this lady, and Was on fuch occafions ad
mitted to a little parlour, furnifhed on one
fide with- a grate, very clofely barred, and' a
cylindrical turning box, in art. opening of
which the good nuri' ufed td place my tea,
O 2 and

( *P6 )
and then turn it round fo that I could take
it out on the other fide. By this contrivance
I believe it would have been impoffible for my
facrilegious touch to have profaned even her
finger ; and the bars of , the grate were not
only fo clofe, but So thick, that I do not be
lieve the lips of any nun in the community
could have been Sufficiently protruded to
have reached mine, Should any one have
been charitably difpoSed to fraternize me.
Such calculations, I cannot but confefs, now
and then came acrofs my mind ; for what is
the effect of foolifh and abfurd reftraint, but
to excite ideas and wifhes hoftile to its inten
tions ? I was more frequently induced fe-
rioufly to lament thofe prejudices, and that
miftaken piety, which lead to unprofitable
mortification rather than to virtue ; for vir
tue is the ufeful exercife of our powers in
fociety, not " laying by pur talents in a nap
kin." Thefe Fj^lifh nuns indeed are more
ufefully employed than moft others; their
convent being a place of education, a fort of
, boarding ^nd day-fehooi for girls, with whofe
relations and, friends,- they have much inter-
cpurfe; and I always found my fair reel ufe
better

( 197 )
better informed of the news of the day than
moft people who range the world at liberty,
as every body tells every thing to thoSe who
cannot go out. Yet on the other hand even
this muft tend to keep up an intereft in the
world they have renounced, though not per
haps equal tp that excited by the impreffions
of memory on the young and feeling mind,
fo beautifully defcribed by a recent poet.
*' The beauteous maid, that bids the world adietf i
Oft of that world will fnatcha fond review j
Oft at the lhrine negleft-her beads, to trace
Some focial fcene, fome dear familiar face,
Forgot when firft a father's ftern controul
Chas'd the gay vifions of her opening foul :
And ere, with iron tongue, the vefper-bell
Burfts thro' the eyprefs-walk, the convent-cell,
Oft will her warm artd wayward heart revive,
To love and joy ftill tremblingly alive ; , ,
The whifper'd vow, the chafte carefs prolong,
Weave the light dance, and fwell thek choral fong j
- With rapt ear drink the enchanting ferenade,
And, as it melts along the moonlight-glade,
To each foft note return as foft a figh,
Andblefs the youth that bids her {lumbers fly."
Rogers's Pleafures of Memory, part ii. ver. 27—42.
O 3 I can-

( *9S )
I cannot withhold the next four lines on
account of the exquifite fimile at their con
clusion.
" But not till time has calm'd the ruffled breaft,
Are thefe fond dreams of happinefs confeft.
Not till the ruthing winds forget to rave,
Is heav'n's fweet fmile reflected on the wave."
Bid. ver. 43—46.
Concerning botany I have little to fay in
my fecond refidence at Paris. I was often
employed with Tournefort's herbarium, and
with looking over the acquisitions of my
friend Desfontaines in Barbary. I faw in
full flower at Mr. Cels's, the Lawfonia iner-
mis, feeds of which were brought by the laft
mentioned gentleman. It is highly fragrant,
in form refembling a Malpighia, but of a pale
buff-colour. The plant is now I believe
loft. An elegant Peruvian fhrub was fhewn m«
in the Jardin du Roi, which Profeffor Jacquin
and Mr. Curtis have fince figured by the
name of Celfa linearis, though, as the latter
remarks, it very ill accords with that genus.
The plant is in fact an Hemimeris ; and as we
.. . ix I- ' '
now

( 199 )
how have it in our gardens, the following
character and Synonyms may not be unact
ceptable. Hemimeris linearis.
H- didynama, foliis linearibus fubferratis.
Celfia linearis. Jacq. Coll. v. a. afo. lc. rar.
v. a. Curt. Mag. t. 210.
This, like fome other Peruvian plants, as
Verbena triphylla of L'Heritier and Fuchfa
coccinea Hort. Kew. has generally ternate
leaves, though in the Futbfa they feem moft
naturally to be oppofite only.
It was curious to remark in the fummer
of 1786, a very prevalent fafhion of wear
ing one Solitary carnation, of an uniform
pale red, clofe Stuck in the button-hole, in
the place of the ribbon of St. ,Louis, Which
thefe flowers exactly refembled in colour,
and might at a distance be mistaken for it.
Although I may incur cenfure for charging
even French vanity with fuch a foible, I can
not help believing the imitation was defign-
ed. A Frenchrnan might retaliate upon me
by noticing a fimilar fafhion, very common
in London not long ago, of encircling the
coats of arms upon carriages with an orna-
O 4 ment

( 200 }
ment looking as like a garter as it dared, and
this was more particularly pradtifed by thofe
who were fartheft removed from all poffible
chance of a real garter. Human nature is
every where much the fame.
Paris began at this feafon to grow very
dirty and difagreeable, on account of the al
moft perpetual wet The want of foot
ways in fo large a town is a glaring defeft ;
in confequence of it the general ftyle of
walking about Pari* in dirty weather is only
Stepping from one great Slippery ftone to
another, and perhaps Sliding into the ditches
of mud between. To thefe comforts may
be added the perpetual danger of being run
over by all forts of carriages, rattling and
whirling along without either fear or dexte
rity in their drivers. In no refpect is this
nation more awkward than in all the tackle
belonging to carriages. Their rope harneffes,
and clurnfy yokes, are fo unmanageable, it
is impoffible to drive their carts and waggons
with any accuracy; and their prepofterous
axletrees, projecting half a yard farther on
each fide than they pught, Seem purpofely
calculated to take hold of all the pofts they can

{ 2D.I )
can find, or, like the faulchipns ofthe war-
chariots of old, to Sweep down every living
being that comes in their way.
No wonder then accidents were fo fre
quent. To be run over might be reckoned
a fort of natural death in Paris. I have heard
that about I oo perfons generally made, this
kind of exit every year. Many a time, as
I have Shrunk into a corner to avoid thefe
formidable axletrees, have I thought of the
fate of poor Tournefort, who was crufhed
by one of them fo feverely, that he acquired
a Spitting of blood, which in time proved
fatal. I faw no Signs of their being more
inclined to fpare one botanift than another ;
and when I happened to be in a carriage, I felt
little lefs apprehenfion for thofe who were
then at the mercy of my v.heels. For not
being one of the noblejfe, thofe refined orna<-
ments of fociety, I could not drive through
a erowd carelefs whether it were age or in
fancy that might be crufhed in my, progrefs.
It is incredible what a happy tranquillity per
fons of any figure had acquired on this Sub
ject. I have actually Seen a poor old man
run over by a gentleman's carriage with the
moft

( 2G2 )
moft wanton careleffnefs on the part of the
coachman. Not being able to reftrain the in
dignation natural to an Eriglifhmari, " Why,'*
faid I, " is not the carriage ftopped, and the
fellow fecured ?" ' A fhrug and a flare were
the only anfwer. " Was it not the fault- of
the coachman ?" " AJfurement. Cef la
voiture de quelque feigneur .'"
No one that has not been in France can
imagine how far this ariftocratic influence
extended. The liveried flaves of a perfon
of the leaft rank or figure, might behave with
any degree of Infolence to the moft refpect-
able tradefman; nor were. blows even to be
always refented.
If a well-dreffed perSon in England has
occafion to enquire his way, or to afk any
other queftion, of a fentinel, he thinks he
pays him Sufficient refpect in treating him as
a fellow-citizen, and calling him friend. In
France none of thefe gentlemen were ever
addreffed without -Monfeur and a refpectful
bow, and it was then ten to one whether or
not Monfeur would deign to return a civil
anfwer. But above all did the tyranny of the higher
5 powers

( *Q3 ) ,
powers Shine out in its native glory with
refpect to game. Not to mention innume
rable inftances befides, I remember taking a
walk with a friend and his family out of the
gates one evening, in a place about as much
trodden as the moft public part of Hyde
Park, or St. George's fields before they were
fo much covered with buildings. A fellow
in rags, without any infignia of office, though
with all the infolence of it, came up to my
friend and told him he muft not walk on
the grafs. " Why not ?" Becaufe of the
King's game. " There can be no game off'
any kind here, nor within fight, and every
body does walk here." This Signified no
thing; and as we could not tell but this
might be a game-keeper, though he might
poffibly be only a ruffian, who not daririg
to attack and rob fo many of us, gratified
his fpleen by this pretence to interrupt our
recreation, we were obliged to comply ;
elfe we might have had a chance of being
lodged in the Bicetre, or fome other bf the
** King's caftles at Paris ;" not till our cafe
had been fairly judged, but till we had made
iriteieft with fome great man to get us out, ty

( 204 )
by as little attention to law as we had been
got in. ¦ None but poor unknown villains*
unconnected with greater ones, ever fuffered
from fo obfolete a thing as the law.
In walking over the Prince of Conde s
grounds at Chantilly, with the perfon ap
pointed to fhew them, we came to a very
low wall, with a little wicket which was
locked. After waiting fome time, and call
ing to no purpofe, I propofed Stepping over
the wall, which was not three feet high ;
but our guide Started with horror, and told
me I fhould certainly be Shot by the game
keeper. I inquired whether my appearance
as art Englifh traveller, this man's prefence,
and the errand we were evidently come on
to fee the grounds, would not protect me.
He anfwered in the negative ; which the
game-keeper, when he came, very ferioufly
and poiitively confirmed.
The infolent airs of all thefe fervants and
hangers-on exceeded imagination, but they
were proportionably fervile to all who
they had reafon to think had any intereft
with their lords. Not that they were capa
ble of the manly attention, the generous re-
fpeaful

( 205 )
fpectful benevolence, which beams from the
countenances of honeft Englifh domefticsi
on all thofe whom they know to be valued
by their good mafier ; the cringing of a
Parifian was ever precifely the fame in all
ranks, from a fhoe-black on the Pont neuf
to a Duke in the drawing-room.
The moft truly refpectable people, as
Mercier well obferves in his Tableau de
Paris, were thofe of the middle ranks of
life, people of trade or profeffions. Among
thefe was to be found a great deal of princi
ple, and much domeftic felicity, with fome
Share of information. This rank was the
moft free from the general fpirit of artifice
and chicanery which made a Striking part
of the Parifian character. But it muft be
-confeffed that among this order of men ori
ginated that fpirit of enquiry and judgment,
and the confequent indignation, that have
led to the wonderful convulsions which now
engage the attention of Europe, and which
have run to the lengths they have, in cortfe-
quence of the lovveft orders of Society not
being proportionably informed or virtuous.
I cannot help offering a few remarks on the
Subject

( 206 )
fubjedt of this great revolution, though with
that diffidence which fo unexampled a phse-
nomenon requires ; more efpecially as I con
ceive Spectators, and ftill lefs the parties
concerned, are by no means cool or difinte-
refted enough at prefent to judge it accurately
or impartially.
I was furprifed, on being introduced into
various Parifian circles in 1786, to hear much
unreferved political talk, and that of a nature
Which I had fuppofed would infallibly lead
to the Baftile. Its prevailing tenour was,
that neither the finances nor the authority of
government could long be Supported ; that
the pe°pfe would not long bear the exceffive
taxes and exceffive pppreffion under which
they groaned ; and that the French in gene
ral were ardently defirous, and ftrongly flat
tered themSelves with the hopes of being, in
a very few years, governed as we are. Xhis
was the converfation of people of considera
tion and property, even connected with the
court, and Sinning in the elevated walks of
life. The prevailing Sentiments of moft
ranks were much, in favour of the Englifh,
as the wonderful adoption of our taftes and
fafhions

( 207 )
fafhions of late years, and the avidity with
which Our publications were read, abundantly
evince. I conceive the works of Mr. Mer
cier, efpecially his Tableau de Paris, have
contributed to the prevalence of thefe fenti-
ments more than moft books.
In October 1787, the public fentiments
began to be greatly agitated. The banish
ment of the Parliament of Touloufe was
much talked of; and when people's tongues
were once let loofe, they began with one ac
cord to hunt out all perfons fufpected of be
ing fpies of government, and to treat them
with juft indignity. One of thefe people be
ing in the Gaffe de Chartres leaning his head
and arms on a marble table, was known to
a gentleman, who believed him to be liften
ing to, the conversation of the place, and
without any ceremony gave him a violent
blow on the back of his head, which drove
his nofe againft the table, and Sent him bleed
ing out of the room. The. company Starting
with furprife and indignation, the perSoft
who gave the blow coolly Said, " Ce nefl
quune mouche A It is but a fly. ^Alluding
%o the term motichard,. by which fuch people were

( 208 }
were distinguished, from their manner of
blowing the nofe as a Signal to each other.
Upon this the company were perfectly fatis-
fied, and the poor motichard never returned.'
Such occurrences however were but trifles
compared with what happened in the next
and the following years. Thofe events it
would be fuperfluous to detail. Their great
features are Sufficiently well known, though
a little distorted one way or other by party
mifreprefentation. They exhibit, I conceive,
in the beginning, one of the nobleft fpecta-
cles the world ever beheld. A great, rich,
and powerful people, burfting indignant from
their long-oppreffive chains, with a fincere
defire to learn to be what God and Nature
intended they fhould be. Such I doubt not
was their prevailing impulfe, and fuch, I
will ftill farther venture to fay, was the aim
of the firft leaders of this vaft undertaking.
I am authorifed to think fo by the almoft
unanimous declarations of better judges than
myfelf, who now fay, that if the French had
contented themfelves with the' constitution
they firft eftablifhed, nobody could have ob
jected to it, as they had an undoubted right to

( 209 )
to amend a government which wanted it fo'
much as their old one did. Such perfons
indeed did not make this declaration im 7 89
or 1790. They inveighed then againft
every thing that was doing in France, as'
much as they do againft all the fucceeding
horrors. But I fpeak of their judgment,
not of their confiftency.
A much more reSpectable fet of politicians
think the French revolution is nothing more
than the reSult of the fchemes rif a fet of
defigning men, who for the laft thirty years.
have been deliberately undermining all prin
ciple whatever ; firft preaching fine-fpun
fyftems of morality and fentiment; then
gently infinuating that fuch fyftems wanted
not the aid of religion, or at leaft of revela
tion ; and in the end finally aiming to over
turn all Subordination, all regular govern
ment, and it feems all regular fociety, along
with every thing mankind had hitherto held
moft facred. Accordingly the ingenious per-
fonage who faid in a public affembly
" there is no God," was a legitimate de-
feendant of others who had fome time before
faid it " in their hearts." Heaven knows
Vol. III. P how

( 2io y
how many pretended philofophers may have
come under this, defcription ! but Heaven
forbid that all who have endeavoured to in
struct mankind, and who have notwithstand
ing been mistaken in Some points, fhould be
branded with it ! Thofe who live in a coun
try of free difcuffion, under a tolerant and
rational religion, can form but inadequate
conceptions of the indignant Struggles of a
manly and honeft mind, labouring to Shake
pff fhackles rivetted on in early youth, whofe
miSchiefs are interwoven with all the private
vices, and all the public abufes continually
before his eyes. Who Shall Say for himfelf
he could in fuch circumftances discriminate
truth from the multiplicity of falfehood fo
artfully connected with it ? Who could truft
his mind, when fo mifled from the begin
ning, to perceive and to love truth itfelf when
difcovered ? It furely becomes the friends
of true christian piety to have great indul
gence for thofe. who have not been favoured
with candid rational instruction, like them
felves perhaps, but on the contrary have al
ways been furrounded with perfons evidently
impofing upon others more than their own
hearts

( *It )
hearts believed, while their martrtei's difcre*
dited every thing they pretended to reverence*
The moft honeft and fagaeious enquirer
might not always be able to , avoid fuch
" Stumbling-blocks." A Sincere lover of
truth, firm in his own principles, will refpect
thofe who honeftly feek it, whether they
meet his eonclufions or not.
It is hard and unchristian, therefore, to fup-
pofe that all who have oppofed and Satirized
corrupt religions and corrupt governments
are enemies to true and good ones ; nor can
one, in that point of view, clearly fee what
end thefe fubverters of eftablifhed opinions
propoSed to themSelves. Not profit nor
worldly honour, for theSe lay in a contrary
path'. The love of Singularity is Said to have
been their aim ; yet their opinions were in
general too prevalent to be called Singular.
It is rational to imagine their efforts would
not have Succeeded, had they not attacked
what was in many points weak ; and as to
their motives, thoSe might be various in pu
rity, it is not for us to judge them. Happy
would it have been if the parties attacked
had difarmed their adverSaries, by adopting
P 2 their

( 212 )
their advice when good, and refuting it when
erroneous ! It is ftrange nobody has yet
tried fuch an experiment any where for pre-
ferving peace and good order !
A moft remarkable feature in the prefent
revolution is that change from fulfome loyalty
in the French nation, to the moft ferocious
antipathy to their fovereign ; but I believe
this change is more apparent than real. This
people originally loved their kings ; and the
national loyalty, along with its pride, Was
carried to a degree of enthufiafm under
Louis XIV. But as it is not in our nature
to love what has nothing amiable about it,
the title of well-beloved given to Louis XV.
was little more than " mouth honour," like
the title oijuf given to the paltry Louis XIII.
becaufe he was born under the fign of Libra,
the balance ; and the one nick-name was as
wife as the Other. The profligacy of the
court under Louis XV. far exceeded that of
his predeceffor ; and while the purfes of his
people were drained to fupply his extrava
gance, and their families ranfacked for new
victims to his luft, fuch a father of his peo
ple might be feared, but not loved. Not even the

( 213 )
the " Corinthian pillars of the polifhed fo-
ciety" of which he was the head, found it
very eaSy to be the pandars of his Sacred
Majefty, though that was, a principal road
to honour. His Sated appetite required al
moft every day a frefh Supply; and the fa-'
mous Madame du B**** is faid to have fe-
cured the duration of her dominion, folely
by affuming, or rather practifmg, at her in
troduction, the direct contrary behaviour to
virgin delicacy and referve. All the courtly
pimps were aftonifhed to find themfelves'
week after Week, and month after month,
deftitute of employment, and were obliged
to lay afide their old trade to pay their de
votions to the favourite fultana. I have
thefe particulars - from very high authority.
Other private anecdotes refpecting this
prince's reign were whifpered to me at Paris,
for the truth of which I can by no means
vouch, and indeed they bear an internal evi
dence of falfehood, but they will the more
fully fhew his title of well-beloved was not
without exceptions.
The attempt of Damien on the life of this
King is reported to have been the contri-
P 3 vance

(: H4-- )..
yance of the.- Queen,, in league with the Dau
phin ; and in confequence, when the plot.
(fome years after) was difcovered, the Queen,
with the Dauphin arid Dauphinefs, were all
fecretly taken off; and fuch it is faid was
the favage and impolitic vengeance, of
Louis XV. that he. even wifhed to have, de
stroyed their children, but was diffuaded
from it.
Now, in the firft place, the attempt pf
Damien was made in 1757; the Dauphin
died in December 1 765, his Confprt fifteen
months afterwards, and the Queen not till
June r768. Why was the moft, guilty, as
She is pretended to have been, fuffered to
live the longeft ? and why any of the parties
fo long ? For what reafon were the inno
cent children to have been involved in the,
punifhment I an(l is it not contrary to all
example for the fuppofed tyrant to have"
wifhed the extinction of his own race ? From
She accounts upon record u of the Dauphin's
illnefs and death,, he evidently appears to
have died of a pulmonary confumption, and.
it is no lefs apparent that the Dauphinefs
(a moft exemplary princefs) caught hisjdhw prefer

( 215 )
order by too clofe an attendance upon him.
In fhort, the whole Story is evidently a ma
lignant forgery ; nor Should I have noticed
it but for its curiofity, though I have heard
it related with additional circumftances, by
perfons who ought to have known better.
It ferves to Shew that the moft arbitrary
power, armed with tortures and baftiles,
cannot Silence its enemies, but rather aggra
vates their malice. The character and the
perfon of a king are much more Safe in a
country where every little difcontent finds
vent in a venal newfpaper or a caricature
print, and which, if unjuft, widely counter
acts its own aims.
The unfortunate Louis XVI. one of the
beft-meaning princes that ever Sat ¦ on the
throne of France, or any other, was wel
comed on his acceffion as all princes are ;
for the people are always fond of a new
fovereign, expecting he fhould be free from
any failings his predeceffor might have had,
and never dreaming that he may have other
and worfe faults. In this cafe however they
would not have been difappointed, had he
been bleft with abilities to-execute his good
P 4 intentions,

( 2l6 )
intentions, or rather had not domeftic chagrin
led him into habits fatal to the employment
of the abilities he poffeffed/ I have heard
it afferted, before this revolution began, that
Louis XVI. was by no means a weak man ;
an affertion which his laft behaviour furely
has amply verified. But what could his
fpotlefs example alone do to reform the
manners of a court, already almoft paft re
formation, while firen pleafure and lavifh
profufeneSs, under a moft attractive form,
led the too willing crowd a contrary way !
The benevolent monarch, and the too partial
hufband, refigned himfelf to indolence, and
tried to find comfort in apathy, from which
however he was Occasionally roufed by infult
or neglect. The readinefs with which he
liftened to a fcherne of reform, fhewed how
uneafy he was at the State of his government.
Had he but been a Staniflaus, to have joined
wifdom and firmneSs with rectitude, he
would neither have deferted his honour and
his people, nor they perhaps have difap-
pointed him ! Interefted and ferocious par
ties would in vain have tried to turn the
popular tide again,ft him, had he not, at fo
critical

( 2I7 )
critical a period, been induced, by evil coun-
fellors, to forfeit the confidence of his Sub
jects, and feparate their intereft from his
own- But how dearly has he paid for the
guilt and folly of others ! How dearly has
the partner of his fate paid for her faults,
let them have been what they would ! May
the errors of this moft wretched princeSs be
remembered only as a warning ; and may
her Sufferings have corrected and atoned for
them ! Of her political faults, during her
profperity, I prefume not to form an idea ;
for who could dive into the intricacies of one
of the moft intriguing of all courts ? Her
fubfequent conduct, her plots as they are
called, her treafon againft her oppreffors,
none that can put themSelves in her fituation
will wonder at or blame. Her private faults
I will not palliate. They were but too Well
known when fhe was in a fituation that
might be fuppofed out of the reach of all
juftice, except the divine ; but they will not
fail now to be blackened, no doubt, where
that can be done. Let it however be re
membered, that the State priSons revealed no
fecrets to the difhonour of this unfortunate Queen,

( 218 )
Oueen, no victims of her jealoufy or refent-
ment, though they were often filled with
thofe of the . worthlefs miftreSfes of former
kings. The canting Madame Maintenon
Spared no pains to. entrap and to confine for
life a Dutch bookfeller who had expofed her
character : but Marie Antoinette took not
the leaft vengeance ofthe moft abufive things
written and published by perfons within her
own power. I had, given me at Paris a fong,
compofed and even publicly fung on the
birth of the firft Dauphin, the licence of
which is beyond imagination ; nor is it in
deed fit to be read. I judge it as I do the
above-mentioned report about Louis XV.
Its malignity is a proof of its falfehood.
The French appear to have a great many
faults of their own to purge off, before they
are capable of fettling into a well-regulated
State — faults, which I am ready to allow in a
greattneafure originated from their former
bad government. It has of late been a fa
vourite idea, borrowed from one of their
fatirifts, that a Frenchman is like an animal
begotten between a monkey and a tyger. If
this illiberal reflection were juft, could it be
expected

( 219 )
expected that fuch an animal, having beeri
long chained up, goaded, and half-ftarved,
Should not be a little unruly when, he 'had
broke from his confinement ? nor would the
gpaders deferve a great deal of pity if they
felt his fangs. His wounds indeed are dread
ful, and no wonder honeft John Bull is eafily
made to believe him as bad as a fiery dragon,
and to brandifh his horns a little in his own
defence; but when he fhall find this monfter
keeps at home, and has perhaps chafed and
fretted himfelf afleep, or, which is rather to
be hoped, has lain down, quietly, defining
only to eat and drink in peace without a
chain, his own generous nature will Surely
not grudge fuch comforts, even to his pre
tended " natural enemy," but will rather
regret that the poor animal has found him
felf obliged to take fo much trouble to ob
tain them. He may alfo thankfully learn
from this example, to eat his own grafs in
quiet, without running at any body that
does not offend him, but to beware pf a
chain, even though it were of filk or gold.
To drop allegory, let us, as 1 have un
awares been led fo far into this fubject, con
fider

( 220 )
fider a little the applications to be made from
it, I have always wondered at thofe who
made the cafe of the French fo much our
own, whether they thought our government
wanted a reform, or not. It feems more
peculiarly injudicious in the latter clafs to
have done fo, as the neceffity for the French
to amend their condition was undoubted,
and we had long held them in contempt for
not attempting it. Exclamations of danger
to ourfelves from their attempt (fo long as
they kept to their own affairs) implied there
fore a confcious weaknefs and error at home.
On the contrary, I believe fome of the firft
Englifhmen who exulted with manly open-
nefs at the beginnirig of the French revolu
tion, never thought of any dangerous appli
cation here till it had been made for them ;
and when that application w^as made, all the
really turbulent and defigning Spirits were
glad to Shelter themfelves under Such re
spectable banners, while the truly good and
honeft bore all the odium, and their enemies
gladly took advantage of it. A bellua mul
tarum capitum, a " fwinifh multitude " of all
ranks, is always ready at hand to be directed by

( 221 )
by one party or another, now againft Catho
lics, now againft Diffenters, according as it
may happen to Suit the politics of the day.
I conceive the public mind might have
been with more certainty kept quiet from
the beginning by temperate intelligible pub
lications, commending the zeal of our neigh
bours for liberty, and encouraging the hope
that by their obtaining , a rational govern
ment like ours, inftead of the tyrannical and
intriguing one they had before, a lafting
alliance might originate between us, without
fear of thofe bloody wars, in which fo many
human beings have been facrificed at the
whim of a favourite or a courtezan, and
without the bulk of either nation knowing
why they were undertaken. If alarms had
arifert at home, it might have been Suggested
that we had already gone through what the
French wanted, a revolution in government
and a reformation in religion ; and whether
we had readied perfection or riot, prudence
required waiting at leaft till our neighbour
excelled us. When that vigorous ftep was
fet, of abolishing all nobility, inftead of
childifh declamation and lamentations, it
would

( 222 )
would have been more to the purpofe to have
Shewn -what the French nobility as a body
really were, how infinitely numerous, how
abSurdly privileged, how proud, idle, and
diffipated ; Surely it was a great injustice to
our own nobility, who are legiflators, or a
determinate part of the government, to con
found them with thofe of France ! What
ever the latter might have been originally,
they had long loft all beneficial powers and
privileges, for which the court had compen-
fated them, at the expence of the nation, by
allowing them all manner of noxious ones,
fuch as no manly rational people ought to
bear. On this Subject 1 cannot refer to bet
ter authority than Mr. Arthur Young's
Travels, to prove the mifchief of thefe pri
vileges relative to the important article of
agriculture. As to the order of nobility, in itfelf ab
stractedly confidered, much may be faid for
arid againft it. When it has no pernicious
powers, independent of thofe great laws of
a State, by which even Sovereigns are bound,
it has many advantages'. It is an economi
cal way of rewarding merit, and its very
existence.

( 22j )
existence as a thing of value depends upon
its not being riiade cheap. It is at its own
peril too that it debaSes itfelf by any means,
and the main intereft of the whole order
jointly arid Separately confifts in its members
not difgracing their rank. I Speak of no
bility now as a thing whofe fole value de
pends on/opinion, as mere titles. When ex
emptions from law are connected with thefe,
the cafe becomes different.
' Difputes about forms of government too
are endlefs. Some are undoubtedly bad, as
an abfolute monarchy ; but that a limited
one fhould therefore be bad, is very far from
the truth. At firft fight an hereditary mo
narchy of any kind appears ineligible, and
perhaps fo much fo, that human reafon might
never have contrived it. On this ground it
has been cavilled at, and the cavillers an
fwered over and over again ; for k is a Suf
ficient anfwer that this plan is found to be
attended with fewer inconveniences in prac
tice, than many others more fpecious in ap
pearance. Upon thefe Subjects thinking
men may fpeculate, and their difcuffions be
33 free as air, that the world may profit, as
1 it

( 224 )
it always muft, by the exercife of reafon.
It ill* becomes thofe who differ in opinion to
defcend to the illiberality of fanatics,' and
call one another names. Neither is it ad-
viSeable for them to force their experiments
upon mankind. Rational beings fhould be
guided by reafon. When a new govern
ment is recommended, or an old one de
fended, let the arguments be laid down
plainly and fairly, void of all declamation,
fatire, or wit. The one fcheme is not to be
tried becauSe it is new, nor the other retain
ed becauSe it is old ; but if the former be
evidently much better than the existing State
of things, and therefore would compenfate
for the great difficulty and trouble of a
change, then alone could it deServe any at
tention ; or if, on the contrary, the old esta
blishment fhould appear to anfwer its pur
pofe well, or to be capable of amending it
felf, the hazard of fupplanting it by another
is by no means advifeable.
A few plain fober considerations of the
above complexion, free from all political
cant, fuperftition, party aggravations, and
interefted deceptions, would, I am perfuaded, have

( 225 )
have kept old England perfectlyfafe from*
the beginning^ without f having recourfe to
dangerous palliatives, fuch as railing a hor
ror of innovation, and Oppofing the rage of
party againft party, and feet agiinft Sect}
which have So often been tried with fuch
very bad and even fatal fuccefs. And well
they may, for they are only making ufe of
the follies of mankind. What a reproach
is it upon our Species that we So often ad-
drefs ourfelves to thefe follies, rather than
to our "nobler faculties and principles !
I little thought I fhould ever have writ
ten fp much upon any political Subject ; for
the fmall benefit I have always perceived to
be derived to the wiSdom, happinefs, or ho-
nefly, of thofe who intereft themlelves much
in thefe matters, has rather deterred me from
the Study of partial politics. The general
great interests of truth and humanity are
indeed a worthy and exalting enquiry. Hif
tory, as it Serves to develope theSe, is a no
ble Study ; and a good man may in Some
meafure be indemnified for fullying his
mind with the contemplation of court in-
Vol. III. Q_ trigues,

i 226 >
trigtres, and wearying his patience with the
iquabbles of herpes, to learn* why all his,
fellow creatures are npt happy, and how
they may have a chance of becoming fb,
even in ¥pite of their own mistaken- en?
deavriurs.

CHAP.

( 227 )

CHAP. XLIII,

FROM PARIS TO AMIENS, BOULOGNE,
DOVER, CANTERBURY AND LONDON.

Oti. 29. JL I RED with the dirt of Paris,
and fatiated with the humours of the Palais
Royal, the fireworks of the Sieur Ruggeri,
the operas, and all the other very fine things
which make Paris fo delightful to a French
man, and fo entertaining at firft fight to an
Englishman, we had for fome time begun
\o turn our thoughts homeward, and this
morning early we fet out poft in a cabriolet
towards England.
As I have mentioned the French opera,
and few perfons would at this moment like
to go to Paris to fee it, I beg leave to affure
thofe who do not know what it is, that they
may get a very tolerable idea if they will
but take the trouble of feeing the farce of
Q_ 2 the.

( 228 )
the Prize at the Haymarket. Storace's fong
is fcarcely a caricature,
We dined at Chantilly. The lawn to
wards the Prince of Co ride's is much over
run with Euphorbia CypariJJias. Slept at
the Ange couronnee at Breteuil, where we
were ill-ferved, not verf civilly treated, and
yet, as the French fay, ccorches.
¦OSt. 30, Breakfafted at Amiens, a confix
derable town, which makes a fine appear
ance on the fide towards Paris. Its lofty
Gothic cathedral rifes above the reft of the
buildings, and is a noble pile ; but furely
jnferior to many of our Englifh ones in
magnificence and elegance, though it reSem-
bles them in Style, haying in fact bepn built;
by the Englifh,
At Bernay we found a moft neat and
comfortable little inn. On this road, it feems,
the inns of a fecond rank in appearance are
much the moft comfortable for travellers of
the Sober Sort.
Oct. 31. /We fet put very early, hoping to

( 229 y
to have Saved the tide this day at" Boulogne*,
but were disappointed,
Nov. I. Another disappointment. Hav
ing paffed our baggage at the Cuftom-houfe,
the weather proved unfavourable. In vain
did we feek for amufement in ranfacking our
inn for chefs-boards, books, or any other
refource. I was fo much out of humour, I
difdained to go church-hunting ; but my
brother, who had feen fewer churches than
I had, pradtifed that diverfion, as he faid,
with ' fome fuccefs, which thofe who Shall
hereafter be detained at Boulogne may be
glad to know, if the wicked Frenchmen
leave a church any where Standing to thank
God in for a peace, and provided they have
*' grace enough," as Dr. Johnfon fays, " to
thank God for any thing."
.Nov. 2. The failors having tantalized us
With their hopes, fears, and prognostications
as ufual, at laft .came after dinner to fay the
wind was fair. We •joyfully went on board
the packet. The wind w.as fair .indeed, be
ing ri early foiith, but, fo .high, that We were
Q^ 3 blown

( 230 )
'blown over to Dover, full thirty miles, in
two hours and three-quarters. This favour
able gale for us was in reality the beginning
of a violent Storm, in which great part of the
Duke of Gloucester's baggage was loft off
the coaft of Portugal, I believe, in coming
from Italy.
As the agitation ofthe veffel wras confider
able, and we had many frefh-water failors
-¦on board, feveral ludicrous fcenes occurred.
The company was at firft very chatty and
in good Spirits ; but after fome time, a ge
neral filence enfued, which proved but the
forerunner bf a very different kind of foci-
ability. Then as fymptoms of ficknefs pre-;
yailed or fubfided, apprehenfions of danger
rofe and fell ; the wind was fomefimes-
thought higher and higher, and the failofs
were often fuppofed to be exerting them
felves to fave our lives.—  " Oh, filter !"
faid a lady in one of her more tranquil inter
vals, " what did you do with the bundle ?"
" Good Lord," replied the other,," what
is the bundle to us that are all loft'4?'- —
¦" Dear Sir," exclaimed another lady, to one
of the few 'gentlemen whp happened juft
then

t 231 )
then to be neither fick nor kugUngi " wfyat
is it that you heard the failors fay laft?"
" Indeed, Madam," replied he, " the laft
fchitig j heard them eonfulting about; was '
what they.fhould.have for Supper at Dover.'*1*
" Oh, Sir !" rejoined the -lady; " don't de
ceive lis ! -pray let ri,s: have time tb prepare
bur poor fouls !"
While this converfation, and rhbre fuch,
/was paffing, a young French- woman prefent,
who underftobd not a word of Englifh; be*
came truly an object of pity ; for .thought
She was reafonable enough tb perceive there
¦ could riot be a Shadow of danger, the ap-
prehfenfions fb .prettily acted by my fair
country- Womeil, really alarmed her; I found
the fame good-natured gentleman, who had
tried to pacify the other lady, in vain at>
tempting to explain matters to her. He had
been inany months travelling about France,
arid had actually refided Some time iii the
.-Southern provinces, without learning a word
of French. All he could fay tb the poor
frightened damfel, was " point danger, Ma-
jdamj, point da. tiger." Which being Spoken
4s Englifh, fhe either did not underftand,,
0^4 °*

( 232 )
or elfe, having no farther explanation of the
apparent terror around her, did not believe.
When the real State bf the cafe was explained
to her, fhe felt herfelf as much at a lofs to
comprehend why people fhould wilfully
frighten themfelves Without reafon. But
before fo lorig an explanation as that queftion
required could take place, all apprehenfions,
both real and fictitious, vanifhed on our
finding ourfelves in the harbour of Dover.
It is really worth while to go abroad for
fome time for the pleafure of coming home
again.. To hear every body talking Eng
lish ; to walk on boarded floors, without
w,ading through — 1 will not fay what ; to
be- waited on by maid-fervants, the general
want, of which abroad muft really be a moft
uncomfortable circumftance to female travel
lers— thefe and numberiefs other littie parti
culars, forgotten during' ab fence, recall do
mestic ideas, and have a wonderful effect on
the fpirits. ' On the contrary, the new and
"ftrange appearance of every thing when one
firft bnte'rs a foreign country, gives, to a' per
form whofe. curiofity is not very1 much on tip
toe, thofe" forlorn fenfations that a' child has
6 when

( 233 )
when left by its mother among ftrangers j
few people fo entirely lay afide their child
hood as to be infenfible to fuch impreffions.
Human felicity however is never without
alloy. Left Englifhmen fhould be too hap
py in coming home to their dear country, it
is wifely, I prefume, ordained that its coafts
fhould be furnifhed with a valuable and re
spectable Set of perfons called cuftoiri-houSe
officers, whoSe duty it is to moderate the
joy as well as the worldly affluence of all
thofe that come in their way. - What our
fair companions in the veffel did .with their
bundle I know not, for it feemed to be of
confiderable dimenfioris ; and they were
both in bulk themfelves To confiderable by
nature, that they could hardly pafs it off as
a part of their own perfons, without the ad
dition appearing incredible, as pads were not
then in fafhion. For my own part I had
nothing I wifhed to: conceal, except the holy
trinkets of Loretto, being uncertain whether
they were prohibited of not. They had
generally travelled all the way from the holy
houfe in my coat pockety only.occafionally
retiring, in cafe of any violent, alarm, to quar-
„ , r ters

¦( 2i4 )
.tets of greater fafety, a-s hh Holiriefs wjheri
.frightened takes refuge in the caftle of St.
.Angelo. They certainly were in no danger
from the heretical cuftom- houfe officers of
.England. As to my trunks and baggage, I difdained
the pettifogging fpirit of finuggling any thing
ibrrthe pleafure of doing fo, and therefore
fub mitted all my property to ihe inspection
of his Majefty's faithful fervants, iri hope
that they would be gracioufly pleafed to re-"
leafe me fonhwith. But I did not recollect
what great perfonages I had to deal with.
That evening nothing could he done ; (6
we behoved, as they fay in Scotland, to take
up our abode at Dover for the night.
Nov.. 3. Although it really did. not require1
half an hour to trarifact our bufinefs, we
could not get releafed till noon,; we were
therefore obliged to dine at Canterbury, and
to Sleep at Rocheftet.
> -On Some trees by a ftnall foHtaty inn be
tween Dover and- Canterbury, where we"
(topped- to water pur horfes, I had the good
luck of gathering a 'beautiful new ffypnitinj
2 Which

C 235 )
which my good friend Mr. Dickfbn has
been pleafed to name IL, Smithii. It was
not in fructification, and might eafily have
been overlooked, had I not already found
it repeatedly at Genoa and Florence in per
fection. The cathedral of Canterbury is much Su
perior in fize and beauty to that of Amiens,
and indeed to moft in England. The place
where the rich fhrine of St. Thomas a.
Becket once Stood is ftill fheWn. It is faid
pilgrimages are Sometimes made from the
Continent to this fipot. I know the fhrine
of Edward the Confeflbr, in Weftmmfter
Abbey, is often vifited from motives of de
votion. I contemplated with more veneration the
maufoleum of the great and amiable Edward,
called the Black Prince, and not without
intereft the plain unadorned tombs of Cardi
nal Pole and Archbifhop Langton.
, While I was examining theie monuments,
afternoon prayers were beginning, and X
received an admonition from the verger, to
the propriety of which I could not but. at
fenf,

( ^o* > )
fent, however' difufed to attend to fuch de"-
-eorum fince I left England. In Catholic
countries nobody thinks of any fuch thing;
and indeed as - twenty different fervices are
often going on at once in the fame church,
fome beginning, while others are ending,
no one perfon can be fiuppofed to attend to
them all ; befides; it is a part of the profit
of the churches for Strangers to vifit their
curiofities, and it is their intereft that they
fhould find all poffible accommodation.
~ *Butlet us have done with Catholic churches
and xeremonies, curious and entertaining as
they are, and novel (thank Heaven and our
forefathers) to an Englifhman of the. prefent
day. Who can approach London without
being ftruck with the nobler object bf a
great induftrious and flourishing nation,
'made up of people of all perfuafions, none
of whom would authority dare to moleft
(could it ever be foolifh enough to wifh it),
unlefs bigotry and intolerance begin . with
.themfelves. May they long continue fo 1
and; may each order of, the. community
know" their 'own belt 'intereft, ; and live at
peace ;

( 237 )
peace ; and if any attempts fhould ever be
made at home or abroad, hoftile to the ge
neral happinefs and greateft good of the
whole, may Englifhmen always have cou
rage and wiSdom to repel them I

APPENDIX.

„'>¦' l\?x&

APPENDIX,

>? /yr-

APPENDIX.

Ari enumeration of the guide-books and
local publications which I have ufed,
arranged in the order of the Tour. To
which is added, an account of fome of
the general works on Italy which have
fallen in my way, difpofed in alphabetical
order.

Amsterdam. Le guide ou nouvelle de*
fcription dC Amferdam, &c. avec une defcrip
tion de fa belle Maifon de Ville. Covens £9*
Mortier. Amferdam. 1772. 8v0. 332 pages.
Several plates.
This is an uncommonly Complete and
intelligent guide-book, containing indications
Vol, III. R of

( 242 )
of every thing curious ; copies and transla
tions of infcriptions ; the hiftory of every
principal edifice, as well as its defcription ;
and all forts of information about ftreets,
charges, ufages and accommodations.

Defcription of the, City Houfe of Amferdam.
P. Mortier. Amferdam. 1782. xamo.
98 pages.
A ridiculoufly bad Englifh tranflation of
the account of the Stadt houfe in the laft-
mentioned book.

Antwerp. Defcription des principaux ou
vrages de peinture & fculpture, a&uelle-
ment exiftans dans les eglifes, couvents Esf
lieux publics de la Ville d'Anvers. Ber-
bie. Atitwerp. I amo. 1 03 pages.
A mere enumeration of pictures and
other works of art, fo far tolerably com
plete. Brussels.

( H3 )

^watoe-^oooo-q*

Brussels. Defcription de la Ville de Bruxel
les, ou V etat prefent, tant ecclifafique que
civil, de cette ville. Par M.l 'Abbe Mann.
Lemaire. Brujfels. 1785. Svo. 238
pages, with a view and plan.
The name of the author is a fufficient
recommendation of this work. Its arrange
ment is alphabetical, with a feparate enume
ration of the curiofities of the town, ac
cording to their fituation. There is another
work by the fame hand on the hiftory of
Bruffels.Paris. Defcription des curioftes des eglifes
de Paris &f des environs. Guejfier.
Paris. 1 759. Svo. 365 pages.
This is a tolerable hiftorical catalogue,
but encumbered with much monkifh trafh,
R 2

( 244 )

Hi/loir e de V Abb aye royale de Saint Denis en
France^ par Dom. Michel Felibien,
Religieux BenediStin de la Congregation
de St. Maur. Leonard. Paris. 1706.
Folio. 815 pages. Several plates.
A fplendid hiftory of this famous abbey,
with a detail of all its politics from the be
ginning. The learned and prudent author
is a zealous, but difcreet, affertor of its rights.
The defcriptions of its curiofities are very
complete, and the fine plates of the principal
maufoleums are now become doubly pre
cious fince the destruction of the originals.
The details of ceremonies- of various kinds,
which have been exhibited at this abbey, are
curious to antiquaries, and accompanied by
numerous anecdotes relative to the French
hiftory, npt elfewhere to be found. The
work is well written, not unworthy of the
age pf Louis XIV.
Lifts of the tombs and relieks Were com
monly

( 245 )
monly to be had at the abbey, before' the

revolution.

Voyage pittorefque des environs de Paris, par
M. Z)***. De Bure. Paris. 1755.
8vo. 364 pages.
' A defcription of the chief country-feats
about Paris, efpecially of Verfailles, with a
preface, in which the water-works are de
fended againft Some reflections that had been
caft upon them, and the gardens of England
are held very cheap becaufe they have no
fuch fquirting exhibitions. Statues are faid
in this work to be the foul of a garden !

NlSMES, Eclairciffemens fur les Antiquites
de la ville do N'fmes, par M. "***,
R 3 Avocat

( 246 )
Avocat de la meme ville. Belle. Nifmes,
1785. Svo. 56 pages. Plates.
Hiftorical. The plates are wretched.
<CHj>"fi?"flE0,friQ'O,0i'O
Genoa. Defcription des beautes de Genes
y de fes environs. Gravier. Genoa.
1 78 1. Svo. 143 pages. Plates.
Very full upon pictures. The plates are
good arid numerous. This feems to be an
extract of fome general work pn Italy, but
I have not found out of what.

iG>OOl©10©^€'0-0'

PiSA. 11 forefiero erudito, 0 feno compen-
diofe notizie fpettanti alia citta di Pifa.
Polloni &? fons. Pifa. 1773. Svo. 159
pages.
Begins with an entertaining compendious
fketch of the hiftory of this ancient republic.
Dante

( 247 )
Dante is here accufed of blackening the cha
racter of the Pifans with refpedt to Count
Hugolino's hiftory. Some of the children
of this unfortunate traitor to his country
were riot in their infancy, but actively par
took of their father's guilt, and therefore
perifhed with him. Our great Sir Jofhua
Reynolds has perpetuated their cataftrophe,
as related by Dante, in one of his fineft pic
tures. It is a miftaken idea, however, that
the family was all deftroyed.
The accounts of the buildings of Pifa,
the pictures, &c. are concife, but intelligent,
and interfperfed with hiftorical particulars.
The author defends the opinion of the in
clined tower having been purpofely built in
that pofition.

Florence. lAantiquario forentino, o fa
Guida per ojfervar con metodo le cofe
notabili della citta di Firenze. Florence.
Cambiagi. 1 781. Svo. 270 pages.
Map.
R 4 A pretty

( 248 )
A pretty full enumeration of all the cu
riofities pf this rich mine of the arts, but
fomewhat encumbered with florid defcrip
tions and bpmbaft cbmmendation, which a
traveller on the Spot does npt want, unlefs
jt be of an amufing kind, as in the follow
jng article,

Defcription de la Galerie Royale de Florence^
par M. Frangois Zaccbiroli, Ferrarois.
AHegrini, Florence, 1783. Svo,. 493
pages.
Of this publication I have already given
both a character and a fpecimen in Speaking
of the Florentine Gallery, vol. i, p. 291.
It is well written, with much tafte, and a
noble freedom, of thought ; but an ambition
pf Shining, and a defire to keep up the atten
tion, has frequently led the author into a fort
of affectation, bordering upon the Sentimental
French ftyle. He commends and cenfures
With equal warmth. Bad princes are execrated without.

< 249 )
without referve. The Medicis, as encou-
ragers of the arts, are highly extolled ; but
his moft exquifitely refined compliments are
reServed for the then reigning Duke Leopold.
His panegyrics of that prince might have
(lamped their author for a courtier — if (to
ufe his own ftyle) they had not been de-
ferved. They are however a fomewhat flat
tering picture of the fair parts of this prince's
character, and it is not to be expected that
a panegyrift fhould give any other.

Rome. La citta di Roma, overo breve de-
fcrizione di quefa fuperba citta. Mo-
naldini. Rome, ijjg. Svo. 446 pages,
with plans.
This is the book I have quoted by the
name of Magnani, which is faid Jo be that
of the author. It is a very complete and
intelligent guide on the whole. There are
feveral others, many of them perhaps as
good. The older ones are the moft tedious,
§s well as erroneous, witnefsthe next article.

( 250 )

Mirabilia Roma. Without place or date.
Svo. i $ pages.
In a bookfeller's fhop at Vicenza I by
accident met with this old Latin pamphlet,
the type and ftyle of printing of which fhew
it to be one of the earlieft productions of
the prefs, to all appearance between the
years 1470 and 1480. The abbreviations
are fo numerous, and the fpelling fo bad, it
cannot always be decyphered without diffi
culty. No author's name appears, yet I have an
imperfect recollection of having fomewhere
found this work mentioned as written by
orte bf the firft authors who have given the
ftory of Pope Joan, and it is referred to as a
proof that the faid author deferved no credit
for any thing, as will amply appear when I
give an extract or two prefently.
This curious publication begins with an
enumeration of the towers and gates of the
city.

( 251 )
city. Then follow the feven lulls, : the
bridges, fites of imperial palaCes, triumphal
arches, and arches not triumphal ; baths,
theatres, cemeteries, temples, &c. in the
mentioning of which are various errors not
worth noticing. The following ftory i$
among the beft in the book.
" Below the Capitol was a palace, for the
*( moft part of gold, and ornamented with
*' precious ftones, faid to be equal in value
** to one third part of the whole world.
" Here flood as many ftatues as there are
*' provinces in the world, and each of therft
" had a bell about its neck, fo contrived
*' by mathematical art, that when any coun-
" try rebelled againft the Roman govern-
" ment, the corresponding Statue of that
" country turned its back upon the figure bf
" Rome, which was larger than the reft, and
" exalted above them as the miftreSs of all,
" and thus the bell at the neck of the rebel
" Statue immediately rung. Upon which
" the priefts of the Capitol, to whofe care
" thefe figures were entrusted, related the
" matter to the Senate, and legions were Sent
" without delay to quell the rebellion." Here

( 252 )
Here is a triumph for the venerators of
ancient learning ! What are our Cambridge
profeffors, our NewtOns, to fuch mathema
ticians as thefe ! The celebrated opinion
that former inhabitants of this earth had tails,
feems no longer fo very improbable. If
they were as ingenious as this account makes
them, they probably had horns and cloven
feet into the bargain.
But to proceed with this wonderful book
of the wonders of Rome. Here follows
its account ofthe two ftatues on Monte Ca-
vallo. " The marble horSes with the two naked
*' men, and the woman Surrounded with
** Serpents, fitting with a porphyry Shell be-
*' fore her, Signify as follows : In the reign
" of the Emperor Tiberius, there came to
*' Rome two young philofophers, named
li Praxiteles and Phidias, who profeffed to
*' be endued with fuch wiSdom, that what-
" ever the Emperor fpoke in his chamber,
" they, though abfent, would repeat to him
"word for word. This they performed,
'¦' requesting that, inftead of any pecuniary
" reward, their memory might be immor-
" talized,

( *53 )
" talized. , Thefe philofophers therefore hav-
" ing two horfes ftriking the earth with their
" hoofs, figrtify the princes of this world.
" Their arms are lifted up, and their fingers
" bent, in the action of explaining futurity ;
" and they are reprefented naked, to fhew
" that all mundane wifdom was naked and
" open before them.
" The woman furrounded with ferpents,
" having a fhell before her, fignifies baptifm
" and preaching ; that whoever defired to
" go to the Lord could not, unleSs he were
il firft wafhed in the fhell, that is, in the
" baptiSmal font."
After this authentic account, curious an
tiquaries may fave themfelves the trouble of
enquiring whether the above figures repre-
fent Alexander taming his Bucephalus, or
Caftor and Pollux. One thing however we
really learn from this blundering narrative,
that the names of Praxiteles and Phidias,
engraved on their bafes, are not of a very
modern date, but at leaft as old as the dark
ages, and (considering the form of their let
ters) probably much older. They may there^ fore

( 254 )
fore be more authentic than has generally
been fuppofed.
But here follows a ftill better ftory, con
cerning the equeftrian ftatue in the Capitol,
now ignorantly called Marcus Aurelius.
" Ofthe peafant fitting on a brazen horfe.
*' At the Lateran palace" (it was there for
merly) " is a certain brazen and gilt horfe,
" called the horfe of Conftantine ; but it is
w not So. Let thoSe who wifh to know the
", truth, read what follows. In the time of
" the Confuls and Senators, a certain very
" powerful King from the eaft came towards
" Rome, afflicting the Romans with great
" ravages and combats. Upon which a cer-
" tain warlike • ruftic, of great fortitude and
" valour, arofe and fagacioufly faid to the
ct Confuls and Senators, ' What would he
** defence from the Senate who fhould deli-
" ver you from your prefent tribulation ?'
They anfwered him, faying, * Whatever
** he Shall afk^ that Shall he obtain.' . Upon
M which he replied, ' Give me thirty talents :
" of gold, and immortalize my memory by
** caufmg to be made a brazen horfe, with j
*' my

%i

( 255 )
** my figure upon it ; on thefe conditions I
*' will deliver you in a fhort time.' They
" all agreed to the conditions. * Then (faid
" he) arife in the middle of the night, and
" be all well armed, waiting in the cave be-
" low the walls, and do whatever I fhall bid
*' you.' They inftantly agreed to this. The
" ruftic directly mounted his largeft horfe
*' without any faddle, and, taking a fcythe,
" went into the fields as if meaning to gather
" grafs, when he faw the King for fome ne-
" ceffary occafion coming to a tree, upon
*' which a bird Sat Singing moft delightfully.
" This being perceived by the peafant, he
" approached very near it; which the King's
" attendants obferving, and fuppofing him
*' to be one of their own people, began to
" cry out, * Fellow, don't touch the King ;
" if you meddle with him you fhall be hang-
" ed.' The ruftic, however, deSpifing their
" threats, and being a ftrong fellow and the
" King but of fmall Stature, he Suddenly
" Seized him, and catching him up, placed
" his Majefty before him upon the horfe,
" flying with all fpeed to the city, crying
** with a loud voice to the citizens, who were
r " con-

( 256 )
" cbricealed in the caves, ' Come forth arid
" deftroy the King's army, for here he is hlrri-
'* felf, before me, a captive.' Upon which
" they all came out and made a great flaugh-
" ter, the remainder of the enemy's army
" being put to flight. After the triumph
" the Romans paid him the gold he had de-
" manded, and made a ftatue in memory of
" him, which they erected before the Late-
" ran palace, fitting on a brazen horfe gilt,
" his right hand, with which he feized the
" King, being Stretched forth, and upon the
¦" horfe's head they placed a reprefentation of
" the bird, whofe finging had been the oc-
*' cafion of their victory. There was alfo
" the figure of the King, of a fmall fize,
" with his hands tied behind him as he was
" taken, placed under the horfe above men-
" tioned." After this follows a pretended account of
the Colifeum as it was originally. St. Sil
verier is here faid " to have commanded
" this temple, and many others, to be d«-
" ftroyed, left ftrangers vifiting Rome on
" account of thefe ancient edifices, and the
" fame of the gods, inftead of the churches " and

( 257 )
ct and faints, fhould occafion a decay of
a ' x. "
piety. It is improbable that St. Silverier had
poWer enough to accomplish So execrable a
defign, if he had the will. The very fame
thing^ has been laid to the charge of St. Gre-
gory the Great ; but Platina, and even Bayle,
reject the accufation.
The reft of this ridiculous pamphlet is
taken up with accounts of yifions feen by
Agrippa and Auguftus, arid of the anger of
Totila againft the Servants bf God. The
reader maty readily difpenfe with any farther
extracts.

Spiegazione de BaJJirilievi ehe f ofervano
nelV uma fepolchrale detta volgarmente
d' Aleffandro Severo, &c. Publicata
dall' Abate Ridolfno Venuti. Amidei.
*¦ Rome. 1 756. 4/0. ^7 pages, 4 plates.
Referred to in my fecond vol, p. 209.
Vol. III. S Villa

( 258 )

Villa Borghefe fuori di Porta Pinciana. By
Domenico Montelatici. Rome. 1 700.
Svo. 321 pages. Plates.
A very full defcription of this celebrated
villa and its curiofities, as they were arranged
in the beginning of this century. The
whole has been repaired, and the difpofition
of many parts changed within thefe few
years, but nothing has been taken away.
The plates of this work are numerous ;
and though they by no means exprefs the
perfections ofthe feulptures they reprefent,
any more than prints in general, yet they
give an idea of their form and defign.

Loretto. Notizie della Santa Cafa di
Maria Vergine venerata in Loreto.
Sartorii. Loretto, 1786. Svo, 88 pages,
3 plates. The

( 259 )
The contents of this publication may
eafily be imagined. The entire hiftory of
this holy houSe from the beginning, with its
various journies, are related moft circumftan-
tially, as if the author really credited them,
and he all along quotes his authorities. This
is a fimilar proof, with the Mirabilia Romee,
that there is nothing fome people will not
write, and others believe. The whole would
be amufing enough, were it not intermixed
with matters too ferious to be jefted with,
among which the frequent mention of divine
agency, and the operations of " uncreated
wifdom," make one fhudder.
As to the prefent exifling ftate of the holy
houfe and its appurtenances, this is a moft
complete and faithful defcription. The fe
veral articles of its really aftonifhing treafury
are detailed with great accuracy, with the
names of the feveral contributors to it. The
cuts are in wood.

S 2 Bologna.

( 26a )

B o L o gn A . Pitture fcolture ed architetture
delle chiefe, luoghi publici, palagzi &f
cafe della Citta di Bologna & fuoifub*
borghi. Longhi, Bologna, 1782. Svo.
599 pages.
A very full enumeration of every thing
belonging to the arts to be feen in this fa
mous city, with an ample index. The names
of the artifts, with fome account of them
generally added, is a peculiar merit in this
guide-book.

Venice. Forejliero illuminato intorno le
cofe piu rare e curiofe antiche e moderne
% della Citta di Venezia. Albrizzi. Venice,
1784. Svo. 439 pages. Plates.
Of-all guide-books this has the quality of
faying moft with the leaft benefit to the
reader. One would fcarcely imagine there
5 could

( 26l )
could be fo much difference as there gene
rally is in the merit of fuch books. This
of Venice is crammed with accounts of
nonfenfical relicks, while the numerous pic
tures in every church are only mentioned
in the lump, with the painters' names all
together, and fcarcely ever an account of
the fubject of each particular performance,
much lefs a criticifm on their merits.
The moft valuable part of this book are
the views of all the churches and public
buildings, which, though fmall, are' not ill
executed, and in fo intricate a town are really
ufeful. The Venetians (as well as the Bolognefe)
have been extremely polite to all the patri
archs and worthies of the Old Teftament, in
giving them the tide of Saint ; fo that we
find here churches dedicated to St. Moles,
St. Job, St. Jeremiah, &c. by which the
degradation of the title in fome other in
ftances is counterbalanced, and it is kept
from becoming a term of reproach.
A catalogue ofthe Farfetti pictures is
given at the palace of that name.
S3 GENERAL

( 263 )

GENERAL WORKS,

RELATING TO ITALY MORE ESPECIALLY,

IN ALPHABETICAL ORBER,

xXDDlSON. Remarks on feveral parts of
Italy, &c. in the years 1701, 1702, 1703.
Svo. Tonfon. London, 1705.
A work fufficiently well known. Its
Strength lies in the illustrations of claffic au
thors, and apt quotations from them ; with
much unqualified fatire againft the Catholic
fuperftitions and abuSes ; a Subject upon
which no Englishman at that time could be
lukewarm. The ftyle of this book is much
inferior to the fucceeding performances of
its illuftrious author.
S 4 Baretti.

( 264 )

Baretti. An account of the manners and
cufoms of Italy, with obfervations on the
mi/lakes of fome travellers with regard
to that country. By Jqfeph Baretti.
Svo. 2 vols. Davis. London,, 1768.
This is a profeffed attack upon thofe tra
vellers who are fuppofed to have given Su
perficial and unfavourable accounts of Italy,
' principally Mr. Sharp. The attack, though
acrimonious, is not always ill-founded ; but
the author in vain attempts to refcue the
reputation of Venetian morals, or of his
country in general, on the heads of cieifbeifm
and affaffi nation ; two fubjects on which
the lefs is faijd by an Italian the better. The
Scheme of Addifpn and others for the feizing
, pf Lprettp, is happily ridiculed;, and de-
fervedly cenfured. Its contrivance is a me
lancholy proof that religious bigotry will fo
far make the beft- man a villain, of which
indeed nobody need look; -far for. proofs in
any

( 2 65 }
any age or country. I believe the truth oh
the whole lies between Mr. Sharp and Mr,
Baretti ; but with refpect to intention and
temper, the work ofthe former gives a much..
more favourable impreffion than that of the
latter.

Cochin. Voyage d' Italie ou recueil de notes /
fur les ouvrages de Peinture Es? de Sculp
ture, qu'on voit dansles principales villes
d' Italie. Par M. Cochin. Svo, 3 vols.
Tombert. Paris, 1773,
A profeffed artift-like criticifm, in whkh.
lefs regard is paid to the defign and expref-
fion of painting than one could have wifhed.
The author feldom takes the trouble of en
quiring what the fubject of a picture is,
except it may happen to be a Holy Family,
or fomething equally obviovis. About hif
tory in general he feems altogether ignorant
and incurious. Neverthelefs, on the Subjects
he underftands, he is deep and intelligent, fuch

( 266 )
fuch as ^grouping, colouring, and effect.
This is So far from being a complete account
of Italy, even with refpect to the arts, that
Rome is totally undefcribed, and the accounts
of feveral other places are wanting, part of
the author's notes having been loft.
The Manuel has made great uSe of Cochin's
work.

Coyer* Voyage cCltalie, par M. V Abbe
Coyer. ?>vo. 2 vols. Duchefne. Paris ',
1776.
In a feries of letters addreffed to a lady
under the name of Afpafia, but intermixed
with particulars which in ' many countries
would not be .addreffed to a lady, and every
where with much affectation, which it is to
be hoped ladies in fome countries would de-
fpiSe. The firft paragraph is a model of the
French fentimental Style.
" Quand vous recevrez cette lettre, re
spectable Afpafie, j'aurai deja fait quelques
lieues vers la; patrie des Cefars 65 des Papes,
Mq

( 267 )
Mepardonnerez-vous de vous avoir trompee?
Vous vous attendiez a un adieu; a. vous!
Laiffons ce mot aux fimples connoiffances.
L'amitie en fouffre trop. Suis-je juftifie ?"
If the reader can get through a few fimi
lar paffages, he will find the reft a pleafant
fort of defultory chit-chat, mingled with ini
formation,

De la Lande. Voyage en Italic, par M.
De la Lande, Svo. 9 vols, and 1 vol.
of maps. Second edition. Defaint,
Paris, 1786,
The moft univerfal affemblage of every
thing relative to Italy that any traveller can
Want to know ; but fuch univerfal works
cannot excel in every department. This is
profeffedly a compilation digefted and cor
rected from the actual obfervation of the
compiler. Neverthelefs he has not always
been fo perfectly on his guatd, but that bad
authorities have often milled him ; nor does
he feem to poffefs much knowledge of the
fine

( 2,68 )
€nc arts. His account of laws and govern
ments, as well as what relates to natural
philofophy (not natural hiftory), has much
greater merit. That many errors are to be
found in fo great an undertaking is not to
be wondered at, nor that the national par
tiality of a Frenchman Should frequently ap
pear.

Dupaty. Travels through Italy, in a fries
of Letters written in the year 1785.
By the Abbe Dupaty. Tranf ated from
the French. Svo. Robinfons. London^
J788.
Lively, fentimental and fententious, with
more fufceptibility of the impreffions, of na
ture than of the principles of art, mor&
generous warmth of feeling than cold
difcrimination of judgment, and greater
purity of moral tafte than veneration for
the authority of others. It could have been
wifhed there had been fomewhat lefs of that
Studied vivacity of ftyle, which looks fo
much

{ 269 )
much like, affectation, and which makes one
fufpect the author had been fometimes
tempted to fay a brilliant thing rather than
a juft one ; few books however, written in
this ftyle, have more folidity or truth of fen-
timent, moft of them have a great deal lefs.

Ferber. Travels through Italy in the years
1 77 1 and 1772, defcribed in a fries of
Letters to Baron Born, on the Natural
Hijlory, particularly the mountains and
volcanos of that country. By John
James Ferber, Profeffor of Natural
Hifory at Mietaw. Tranf ated from
¦the German by R.E, Rqfpe, with notes.
Svo. Davis. London, 1776.
Very deep and inftructive on the mine
ralogy of Italy, with good defcriptions of
the antique, as well as recent, marbles, por
phyries, &c. interfperfed with fome botanical
remarks, and accounts* of the naturalists then
living, and their collections, Keysler.

( 270 )

Keysler. Travels through Germany, Hun*
¦ gary, Bohemia, Switzerland, Italy and
Lorrain. By John George Keyfer,
F.R.S. ' Tranf ated from the German,
by M. Godfrey Schutze. Svo. 4 vols.
Scott. London, 1758.
A plain, full, and circumftantial narrative,
written in fictitious letters, but without any
artifice to make therii feem real ones. No
^cafual variations of humour or fpirits can be
laid to the charge of this writer. Such pro-
penfities and prejudices as he has, appear
always in the fame degree on every fimilar
occafiori. He is no friend to the French,
and is particularly angry at Louis XIV.
vol. i. p. 127, for having a time-piece in
which the Imperial eagle was made to trem
ble at the crowing of a cock. Mr. Keyfler
thinks it might have been a lion, or a figure
of St. Peter; in fhort any thing but an
eagle. The baby monarch has had an ho
nour

{ 271 j
Hour which could hardly have been expect
ed, that a man of fcience fhould write half-
a-fcore lines either in praife or difpraife of
his toy.
There is an Englifh edition of this work
in quarto.

Manuel. Manuel de I'etranger qui voyage
en Italie, &c. Svo. Duchefne, Paris,
1778, with maps.
This little pocket volume I found of emi
nent fervice. It contains a compendious enu
meration of the moft celebrated objects in
every place, with a Sketch of the merits of
many of them ; what relates to pictures is
chiefly taken from Cochin and De la Lande.
There are eight maps of the roads, and an
Introduction of 76 pages on the fine arts, well
and fenfibly written, and highly worthy the
attention of thofe who are about to enter on
the ftudy of them, either as artifts or ama
teurs. I do not know the author of this
work. Martyn.

( 272. )

Martyn. A Tour through Italy. Mf
Thonidi Mdrtyn, B. D. F. R. S. Pro
feffor of Botany in the Univerfity of
Cambridge. Svo. Kearf'ey. London, 17 91.
¦ Map.
By far the moft accurate, comprehensive^
and commodious guide for a journey through
Italy. It is much more full than the work
laft mentioned, containing ample catalogues
of pictures and fculptures, the characters and
accounts of which are remarkably concife,
and no lefs difcriminative. The defcriptions
©f Rome, Florence, Naples, and Venice, are
more full than the reft, but not more diffufe.
The amiable writer, content with being ufe-
ful, has left unattempted what is generally
efteemed more brilliant, fame, though un
doubtedly at his command. A habit of pe
netration and difcrimination, with a facility
pf clear communication, acquired by the
fyfteiriatic Study of nature, are remarkably
difplayed in this performance,. Miller.

( 273 )

Miller. Letters from Italy in the years
1770 and 1 77 1, by an Englijh-woman.
Svo. 3 vols. Dilly. London, 1 776.
A A
The writer of thefe letters is uniformly
fuppofed to have been the late Lady Miller
©f Bath-eafton. They exhibit an eafy, na
tural, and entertaining account of Italy,
abounding with Strokes of humour, as well
as intelligent remarks. Whether their fair
authorefs may happen to be in a cheerful or
contemplative mood, her company is always
pleafant, and not the lefs fo for the confpicu-
ous figure herfelf and her own feelings make
in every fcene. Thefe letters have all the
internal evidence. of genuinenefs. Whether
they may have been at all amplified for pub
lication I will not determine. It fhould
feem, as far as I have followed them and
compared them with other books, that each
letter was compofed from aretrofpect ofthe
bufinefs of the preceding days, .with the
Vol. III. T affiftajice

( 274
affiftance of books, principally De la Lande's
work. Hence many paffages are an epitome
of his defcriptions ; but they confift of a
tolerably judicious felection from his indif-
criminating details, and are accompanied
with fo many new remarks, that it is eafy to
perceive Lady Miller had really feen every
thing with her own eyes. She indeed fub-
mits her judgment too much to the direction
of her guide, but occasionally burfts from
fuch trammels, and always with advantage.

Montaigne. Journal du Voyage de Michel
de Montaigne en Italie par la Suijfe £sf
V Attemagne en 1580 et 1581. \2mo.
- 3 vols-. Le Jay. Paris, 1774.
This recital was evidently compofed for
thearhufement ofthe author and his friends
rather than for publication, and it accord*
ingly remained in obfcurity for near two
centuries. Of its authenticity the ftyle and
- ¦ • 3 turn

( *15 )
turn of thought, fo like Montaigne's Effays,
are a fufficieni; proof. It is rather a hiftory
of the author than of the countries he vifit-
ed, and So far highly curious. Every page
brings him prefent to his readers, and his
own delightful naivete is every where con-
fpicuous.

Moore. A View of Society and Manners
in Italy, with Anecdotes relating to fome
eminent characlers. By John Moore,
M. D. Svo. 2 vols. Str aban and Cadell.
London, 1781.
A moft lively and well-written Sketch of
an Italian tour, too much celebrated and ad
mired to need any new commendation. The
Subject of painting is purpofely omitted.
The anecdotes of the Venetian hiftory are
highly interefting. Who has not dropped
a tear over the ftory of Fofcari ?

T 2 Pelham.

( 276 )

Pelham. Tour of Holland, Dutch Brabant,
the Aufrian Netherlands, and part of
France, &c. Svo. Kearfey. London,
1772.
Written by the late Counfellor Pelham :
it was published afterwards with his name.
The, author faw the conjunction of a rab
bet and a hen at Bruffels. This may be,
but 1 ftill doubt whether any body has yet
feen their progeny.

Piozzi. Olfervations and Refeclions made
in the courfe of a Journey through France,
Italy, and Germany. By Hefer Lynch
Piozzi, Svo. 2 vols. Strahan and Cadell,
, London, 1789.
This publication is too well known, and
its authorefs too celebrated, to need a criti- cifm

( 277 )
cifm here. It is ftamped with the character
of genius, and few books are more full of
ideas. Indeed it may be faid of Mrs.
Piozzi, as of Cowley,
" Her turns too clofely on the reader prefs •_,
" She more' had pleafed us had ihe pleafed us lefs."
i"
I know not whether we have a right to cen
fure the Style of this publication, or to re
gret that paffages ofthe moft dazzling beauty
are introduced amid inaccuracies of compo
fition, which might be taken for careleffnefs,
were they not evidently laboured to repre-
fent eafe. The whole is fo peculiar, and
fo'mafterly in its own way, we have no
Standard to judge it by, and had better, per
haps, Submit to be pleafed, though we do
not know exactly .why.

Richard. Defriptim hiforique &? critique
de I' Italie, par M. V Abbe Richard. Svo.
6 vols. Des Ventes. Dijon, 1766. With
maps,
T 3 Thia

( 278 )
This is perhaps a more full, though fome
what lefs voluminous, account of Italy than
even De la Lande's work ; if is alio much
lefs of a compilation, and the ftyle and fen-
timents are of courfe more uniform. It
feems not to have been enough known to
our Englifh travellers in general, though
much the beft defcriptive work for their ufe,
De la Lande's being in great part collected
from the local guide-books which they will
.find in every town. The Abbe Richard
appears tp be a man of general knowledge
and tafte, who fees, judges, and determines
for himfelf. Although he writes with great
decorum, particularly with regard to religion,
it is eafy to difcover from his own obferva-
tions, as well as from the hiftorical facts he
records, that he is no bigpt to the defects of
any religion, nor of any government, One
could fometimes have wifhed that his acr
counts of buildings, pictures, &c. had been
more difcriminative and appropriate : his ob-
' fervations on men arid manners are candid,
and faithful.

8AN9y§,

( 279 )

SanDys. A relation of a journey ^ begun
A. D. 1610, foure bookes, containing
a defcription of the Turkifh Empire, of
JEgypt, ofthe Holy Land; ofthe remote
parts of Italy and. Ifands adjoyning.
Sixth edition. Folio. London, 1670.
240 pages. 50 plates.
Written by George Sandys, the youngeft
fon of Edwin Sandys, Archbifhop of York
in Queen Elizabeth's time. He appears to.
haye been an accomplished fcholar and in
telligent obferver, though an indifferent
writer. His Style in proSe is pedantic and n
crabbed, and nothing can be more ludicrous
than his poetical tranflations of paffages from
the claffics, which paffages however he ge
nerally quotes with much learning and pro
priety. Naples and its environs are the only
part of Italy ijluftrated in this book.
T 4 .Sharp.

( 2§0 )

Sharp. Letters from Italy, defcribing the
Gufioms and Manners of that Country,
in the years 1765 and 1766. By
Samuel Sharp, Efq. Svo. Cave. London,
Third edition.
A much more authentic account of Italy
than Mr. Baretti will allow, though it can
not be called a polite or a favourable one.
The feverity with which it was treated, 00-
cafioned the publication of
A view of the cufoms, manners, drama,
1$c. of Italy, as they are defcribed in the
Frufta Letter aria, and in the account of
Italy in Engli/h, written by Mr. Baretti;
compared with the letters from Italy,
written by Mr. Sharp. By S. Sharp,
Efq. Svo. Nicoll. London, 1768,
82 pages.
In this the cenfures of Italy, at which
Mr. Baretti took fo much offence, are Shewn \9

( 28l )
"tb be mild and flattering to what he had
himfelf written on the fame Subject.- Mr.
Sharp repels his attacks with great modera
tion and juftice, and has infinitely the beft
pf the argument.

Smollett. Travels through France and
Italy. By T, Smollett, M. D. 2 vols.
Svo. Baldwin, London, 1766.
We perceive, immediately on entering
upon the firft page of this work, that we
are vifiting a fick and unfortunate friend, to
whofe peevifhnefs and complaints we think
it charitable to lend an ear, out of gratitude
for the pleafure he has afforded us when in
health. In the prefent cafe we are fhocked
to find certain little afperities, which always
gave a tartnefs to our friend's character,
even in his beft humour, increafed into
frightful deformities. We find him unfor
tunate in Some ofthe things he narrates, but
miftaken

( 282 )
miftaken iri others. We avoid contradicting
him, out of compaftion. We-wiflrhim bet
ter, and take leave with a refolution not to
fuffer our own humour to be Contaminated
by his.

Walker. Ideas fuggefed on the f pot, in
a late excurfon through Flanders, Ger
many, France, and Italy. By A. Walker,
Letturer on Experimental Philofophy.
Svo. 442 pages. Robfon. London, 1790.
Wooden cuts.
This has ,the appearance of what it
profeffes to be, a genuine unaffected narra
tive. The refpectable author fcrupuloufly
avoided all correction of his original re
marks, by which means, what is loft in ele
gance is made up in fidelity. The ftyle is
prbfeffedly familiar, but nothing requires
more delicate management than a familiar
pen. Mechanics form the principal and
moft original feature in this tour ; the fine arts

( ^3 )
arts are not the moft correct one. Proper
names throughout are printed with wonder
ful inaccuracy.

WlNKELM ANN. Hifoire de l'Art de V An-
tiquite, par M. Winkelmann, traduite
de V Allemand par M. Huber. 3 vols,
^to, Breif kopf. Leipzig, 178 1. Plates.
In fpite of all the puny attacks which
have been made upon the character of Win
kelmann as a critic in the arts, this work
will ever prove him a firft-rate genius and a
moft acute obferver, His own freedom
from difguife, and his warmth verging to
wards petulance when contradicted, or when
in the company of infenfible taftelefs people,
made him feveral enemies, all of whom may
be referred to two claffes, the ftupid and the
envious. Thofe who have ftudied the ob
jects he illuftrates with his book before them,
wilj be ftruck with his acute penetration, and

:.( 284 ) •
and ingenuity of conjecture, on a thoufand
different occafions ; and, unlefs very un
grateful, will acknowledge that he has given
them at once more pleafure, and more in
formation, than any other writer in the fame
line of ftudy. He may how and then be
carried away by a theory ; but thole who
read him muft have profited very little by
his instructions, or be themfelves very de
ficient in judgment, if they know not in
every cafe how far to follow him.

Wright. Some Obfervations made in tra
velling through France, Italy, SsV. in
tbe years 1720, 1 721, and 1722. By
Edward Wright, Efq. 2 vols. 4/0.
Millar. London, 1 764, Second edition.
Plates.
Why thefe obfervations were fo long
withheld from the public I know not, nor
in what year the firft edition appeared ; il
was

( *85 )
was certainly but a fhort time before the
publicatiori of the fecond. This is a work
rather of learning than tafte, and of a very
general fcope. The ftyle is far from elegant,
much interlarded with Latin, French, or
Italian words and phrafes. Some of the
fineft Grecian ftatues are called genteel. The
plates are rude, and totally deftitute of the
grace or expreffion of the originals they re-
prefent.

Young. Travels during the years 1787,
1788, and 1789, undertaken more par
ticularly with a view of afcertaining the
cultivation, wealth, refources, and na
tional profperity ofthe kingdom of France.
By Arthur Young, Efq. 4/0. Rackham.
Bury St. Edmunds. Map.
Full and intelligent upon every thing re
lative to agriculture, the profeffed object of
fhe work. It is moreover one of the ftrong- eft

( 286 )
eft publications in the Englifh language
againft all forts of ariftocratic tyranny, and
undue authority of every kind, being found
ed at every ftep, not on fpeculative theories,
but on actual obfervation. We meet with
peculiarly warm remarTcs of this kind.
" A grand feigneur will at any time, and
in any country, explain the reafon of im-
proveable land being left wafte." p. 43. — ¦
Again, fpeaking of wars between France
and England,
" What a fatire on the government of
the two kingdoms, to permit in one the
prejudices of manufacturers and merchants,
and in the other the infidious policy of an
ambitious court, to hurry the two nations for
ever into wars that check all beneficial works,
and Spread ruin where private, exertion was
bufied in deeds of profperity !" p. 47. This
indeed is fomewhat paradoxical, as the
"prejudices of manufacturers and merchants"
are generally againfl wars.
" What have kings, and ministers, and
parliaments, and ftates, to anlwer for their.
prejudices, feeing millions of hands that
would be induftrious, idle and Starving, through

( 287 )
through the execrable maxims of defpotifm,
or the equally detellable prejudices of a feu
dal nobility !" p. 84. " The deftruftion of
rank" is faid (p. 151) " not to imply ruin."
The authorv though generally an enthu-
fiaft for his plough, is fometimes in danger
of becoming a cicifbeo. p. 204 and 208.
He is every where entertaining, always in
structive in his own line, and fometimes in
other walks of knowledge.

INDEX

INDEX

T O T H E

NATURAL HISTORY.

A.
A.BRICOTS du Pape, i. 72
Acanthus, ii. 68
.Achillea, iii. 137
Aconite, i. 324
Acor us Calamus, ii. 330
Acrojlichum Mar ant a, i. 261
Aitaa fpicata, iii. 171
Adianium Capillus-Veneris, i. 256 \. 99
Adonis aflivalis, iii. 15
Aetites, ii. 416
Agaricus deliciofus, i. 180
Agave amerhanar i. 192, 260. ii. 121, 291
Vol. III. TJ Agave

( 29° )
Agave vivipara, ii. 353
Agroflema Flos Jovis, iii. 136
Air a canefcens, i. 34
Aitonia rupeflris, \, 175
jilcea rofea, iii. 170
Alchemilla pentaphyllea, iii. 134
Allium Chama-tnoly, ii. 92
Aloe, i. 192
,  perfoliata, ii. 122
«— — perlata, i. 25
Alyffum montanum, ii. 305
Amethyft tables, ii. 410
Amamum verum, ii. 416
Amyris Opobalfamum, ii. 287
Andropogon Schoenanthus, ii. 417
Anemone, iii. 127
— :  apennina, ii. 90, 145, 307
 coronaria, ii. 64
 hortenjis, ii. 64, 281
— — — nemorpfa, ii. 145
Antelope, i. 71
Antennae of Infe£ts, i. 38
Anthemis leucantha, i. 31
Anthericum calyculatum, iii. 132
Antirrhinum multicaule, iii. 136
Apocynum venetum, ii. 415
Apples of Genoa, iii. 9S
Aquilegia alpina, iii. 131
Arbutus Unedo, i. 199, 256
Arenaria_ iii. 137
Arethufa capenfis, i. 31
Argtnauta Argot i. 14

Ariftohchtd

( 29I )
Ariftolochia rotunda, iii. 88
Arnica montana, iii. ,128, 136
—*  pilofelloideSi i. 31
Artemifia, ii. 112
«  arborefcens, ii. 68
Arum Arifarum, i. 209
— 1— Dracunculus, iii. 46
Arundo Calamagrojlis, i. 34
 Donax, i. 215
 epigejos, i. 34
Afbeftos cloth, ii. 201
Afclepias fruticofa, iii. 9
Afpalathus pinntita, i. 31
— —- — — quinquefolia, ibid.
Afphodelus ramofus, ii. 68, 284, 2991
After alpinus, iii. 136
Aflragalus, iii. 137
Aftrantia major, iii. 133
 - »n»?r, iii. 156
Athanafia Itsvigata, i. 31
Aucuba japonica, i. 25
Azalea procumbensr iii. 160. B.
Balfam of Mecca, ii. 287
Bartfta alpina, iii. 127, 135
Bears prifoners of ftate, iii. 173
Berberis vulgaris, iii. 1 50
Bidens tenella, i. 31
Bignonia tetraphylla, iii. 9
Birds of Switzerland, iii. 172
Bif cut elia, i. 176
U 2 Bifmutb,

( 292 )
Bifmuth, its ufe, iii. 147
Blafta pufilla, i. 215, ii. 72
Borbonia ericifolia, i. 31
Bos Bubalus, ii. 144
Box-tree, i. 149
Breccia, ii. 195, 251, 256, 367
Bryum ccefpititium, ii. 112
— —- pyriforme, ii. 72
— ;  rigidum, i. 191
Buchnera africana, i. 3a
Buffalos, ii. 144
Buphthalmum capenfe, i. 31
Buxbaumia aphylla, iii. 171. C.
Gacal'va alpina, iii. 131
Catlus Opuntia, i. 209, 262
¦ pendulus, i. 25
Calamus aromattcus, ii. 330, 417
Callkarpa americana, ii. 353
Caltrops, water, i. 70
Campanula Cenijia, iii. 135
w  — Speculum, ii. 305
Camphorofma monfpeliaca, i. 150
Cancer Manas, ii. 366, 418
Mantis, ii. 321
 P agur us, ii. 91
Caper tree, i. 186
Capparis fpinofa, i. 1 86
Car damine bellidifolia, iii. 160
Carex atrata, iii. 136
— — lih Coriander, , m. 142.

Carex

( 293 )¦
Carex filiformis, iii. 133
fcetida, iii. 136
¦ incurva, ibid.
 juneifolia, ibid.
Carob-tree, i. 219
Carp, tame, i. 91
Catananche ccerulea, iii,. 87
Celjia linearis, iij. 198
Centaurea paniculata, iii. 88
1 — falmantica, i. 152
¦  unifkra, iii. 13$
Cerambyx Sutor, iii. 155
Ceratonia Siliqua, i. 219
Ceratofpermum, i. 316
Cercis Siliquafirum, i. 148. ii. 2$5, 300,^ 305, 308
Chama gigantea, i. 78
Chamtsrops, i. 12
Chafte-tree, i. 223
Cheiranthus africanus, i, 30
, — -  ! — incanus, ii. 98
Chenopodium ambroftoides, ii. 72
Cherleria fedoides, iii. 134 .
Chironia jafminoides, i, 30
Chryfanthemum atratum, iii. 134
Cicada plebeja, iii. 95
Cicer arietinum, iii. 99
Cimex lineatus, iii. 96
Cinchona foribunda, iii. 12
Cineraria linifolia, i. 31
Cipolino marble, ii. 39, ic»jf
Ciflus, i. 150, 191, 223
 albidus, i. 164, 225
— — (apenfis, i. 31 U 3 • Ciflus

( 294 )
Cijlus monfpelienfis, i. 225
—— falicif alius, ii. 285
 Tuberaria, i. 199
Clathrus cancellatus, ii. 3138
Cloth made of Afclepias fruticofa, iii. ia
Clypeola maritima, i. 179,229. ii. 96, 108
Cneorum tricoccum, i. 164
Coccinella, ii. 73
Colours of flower$, their changes, ii. 108
Columba crijlata, i. 71
Convallaria multif.ora, 1. 35
:  Polygonatum, ibid.
Convolvulus cantabricus, i. 176
|Cfl«z« Cedo-nulli, i. 37
Coriandrum tefliculatum, iii. 15
Poriaria myrtifolia, i. 202
Cork-trees, i. 338
Cornelian Cherry, iii. 125
Cornflag, iii. 15
Cornus mafcula, iii. 125
Coronilla Emerus, ii. 98, 291, 292
¦ varia, iii. 78, 89
Cotyledon Umbilicus Veneris, i. 2IQ
Cow- wheat, iii. 15
Craffula flrigoja, i. 30
Crefpigno, ii. 65
Crithmum maritimum, iii. gq
Crotalaria perforata, i. 31
Crowfoots, iii. 133
Cupani's figures pf plants, ii, 90
Curfuta, iii. 157
Cyclamen, ii, 97, 292 f CjnojporittM

( t9$ )
Cynomorium coccineum, iii, 97
Cyperus efculentus, iii. 98
 Papyrus, ii. 353
Cypreffes, old, ii. 233
Cypripedium Calceolits, iii. 14!
Cytifus, ii. 1 10. D.
Daguigno, a fhrub, ii. 308
Daphne collina, ii. 129
¦ Gnidium, i. 164, 223
Datifca cannabina, iii. 1 14
Datura arborea, i. 118
Dianthus alpinus, iii. 136
¦ carthuftanorum, i. 226
 fuperbus, iii. 144

¦ virgineus, iii. 136
Dolichos capenjis, i. 31,
Draba muralis, ii. 109
Dracana Draco, i. 25, 314
Dragon's blood, i. 314
Drugs, i. 183. ii. 415 — 418. iii. 97
Dryas oclopetala, iii. 137
Duranta EUifri, iii. 93. E.
Echinophora fpinofa, i. 201. iii. 92
Echinus efculentus, ii. 70
Echfnus, foflil, iii. 148
Echites, i. 12
Emeralds in the rock, ii. 318
Entomology, iii. 112, 117
Bpidendrum Vanilla, iii. 97 -
U 4 Eping

( ^ )
Epine vinette, iii. 150
Erica arborea, i. 199, 200, 225, 226, 256. Ut 73, IOi,
103
 calycina, i. 31
¦ corifolia, ibid.
 gnaphalodes, ibid.
 multijlora, i. 185, 261
— — fcoparia, i. 225
Eryngium campe/fre, i. 4
Eryngo, /foW.
Euphorbia Characias, ii. 138
 Cyparijfiat, iii. 22S
¦  dendr aides, i. 210, 223
— — ¦  Peplis, iii. 93
 fer rata, i. 152
 fpinofa, i. 199, 218, 223
Euphrafia latifolia, ii. 245 ¦
¦  officinalis, iii. 134
Eyebright, ?i/V. F.
Ferula communis, ii. 300 ,
Fejluca fpadicea, iii. 136
Figs, Indian, ii. 68
Filb, foflil, i. 169. iii. 21
 , Genoefe, iii. 98
Flexible marble, ii. 214
Flint, ftratum of, i. 176
Fowls, finguiar breed of, i. 91. iii, 276
Fraxinus Ornus, ii. 30s
Fruit at Genoa, iii. 98
Fuchfia^ coccinea, iii, 199 Fucut

( m )
fueus natans, ii. 98
p-  felaginoides, ibid,
Fumaria bulbofa, ii. 145
fungifs Melitenfis, i. 183. iii. 97.
G,
Galanthus nivalis, ii. 145
Gardens, botanical, i. 10, 25, 32, 71, 117, 158, 187,
265, 314. ii. 296, 353. iii. 8, 46, 65, 96, 114,
115,151, 184
G-aridella, a new fpecjes of, i. 71
Gentians, Hi. 133, 134, 140,157, i6p
Gentiana afclepiadea, iii. 136
 cruciata, i. 35, iii. 140
>' ' .,- lutea, iii. 157, 160 -
¦  nivalis, iii. 134

 purpurea, 111. 157
G cranium incanum, i. 30
 paluflre, iii. 162
Geum reptans, otmontanum, iii, 138
Ginkgo, i, 12
Gladiolus communis, iii. 15
Glinus diclamnoides, i. 3 1
Globularia Alypum, i. 186
.  vulgaris, ii. 3§7
Glow-worms, winged, iii. 77, 8 J
Gnaphalium cylindricum, i. 3 1
¦  difcoloruih, ibid.
s  ¦ — ericoides, ibid,
:  Stcechas, i. 147
:  :  fupinum, iii. 97
fioat Moth, i. 37

JBraffes,

C 298 )

GrafTes, lecture on, iii. 66
GrylTi, iii. 162
G unde lia, i. 118. H.
Hedge-nettle, ii. 68
Helix de collata, i. 163
¦— — lufitanica, i. 163
Helleborine, ii. 68
He lieb or us fcetidus, i. 324
 — hyemalis, ibid.
,niger, ibid. ,
— — — viridis, i. 260
Hemimeris linearis, iii, 199
Herbariums, ,i. 12, 29, 71, m, 118, 126, 148, 164,
169, 190, 195, 315. ii. 90. iii. 65, 97 •
Hermannia triphylla, i. 30
Hteracium Auricula, iii. 78, 87
 capenfe, i. 31
— — — cymofuniy iii, 88
Hlppophae rhamnoides, i. 34
Hjfter quadrimaculatus, iii. 94
Holcus cafer, iii. 10
Hyacinthus comofis, ii. 292
 non fcriptus, ii. 145
¦ racemofus', iii. 16
— — romanus, ii. 293, 320
Hypnttm gracile, i. 333
—  fciuroides, i. 333,, 336
' Smithii, i. 256, 312. iii. 234
> 1 taxifalium, ii, 64. Indigofertt

( *99 )
I.
Jndigefera racemofa, i. 3 1
Infects, ii. 73, 145, 330. iii. 64,89
¦¦ their hearing, ii. 91
John Dory's, i. 215
Iris Florentina, ii. 292
¦ — —pumila, i. 223
Ifs nobilis, 1,313. ii. 330
Ifoetes lacufiris, i. 163.
Judaicus lapis, iii, 148
^Judas-tree, ii. 285
Juncus filiformis, iii. 127, 160
*  1— Jacquini, iii, 135
1 niveus, iii, 78
*  fpicatus, iri . j 3 1
 ¦ — - triglumis, iii. 13$
fxia Bulbocodipim, ii. 65, 5184. &
Kalmia glaufa, i. 120, t,
JLacerta agilis, ii. 64. iii. 147
Lagurus ova i us, i. 198
Lamium bifidum, ii. <f6
; ' macula turn, ii. 146
fcampyris Italica, iii. 77, 94
:  nocliluca, iii. 94
fjathraa Squamaria, ii. 90
fiathyrus amphicarpos, i. 164
» 1.1. Aphaca, iii. 15

Itdthyms;

(i 3°° )
Lathy rus lat if alius, iii.. 89J.
Lava, ii. J13 — 120, 123
Lavandula Spica, i. 148, 225
¦  r Stcechas, i, 163, 225
Laurus-tinus, i. 220
Lawfonia inermis, iii. 198
Lead- wort, i, 210
Lentifcus, ii. 68, 98
Leontodon aureum, iii. 132
Lepidium veficarium, i. 7 1
Lichens, i. 160, 164, 175, 215,. 261, 312, 331, 336.
ii. 113. iii. 88, 127
LUhen apthofus, iii. 156
¦  r- articulatus, i. 312, 336
•  caper atus, i. 196
—  > cartilagineus, ii. 285
. '— chryfopthalmus, i. 163
—  corrugatus, i. 47
— — — croceus, iii. J57
- cucullatuSp iii. 131
<  deufus, i, 104
 divaricatus, iii. 159
¦ encauflus, iii. 158
exdnthematicus, i. 1.7 1
fuciformis, i. 198
— — geographicus, 1.331
— — — glaucus, i. 336
 glamuliferus, i. 333, .336,
,¦ immerfus, i. 171
 — juba t us, i. 336
¦  juniperinus, iii. 159-
 : — luridus, i. 222 JLichen

( 3°i )
Lichen niger, \. 331
¦ nivalis, iii. 132
¦ .throleucus,, ibid.
¦ '¦ parellus, i. 33 I
—  pafchalis, ii. U3, 118
. perlatus, i. 225, 260
¦ polyrhizos, iii. 127, 1 59
¦ probofcideus, iii. 159
¦I puflulatus, ibid.
 ¦ pyxidatus, ii. 113 -
 Reccella, i. 198
——— faturninus, iii. 141 •
¦ fcrobiculatus, i. 336
 • tar tar eus, i. 198. ii. 146
¦ " tumidulus, i. 171
velleus, iii. 159

Lignum aloes, ii. 416
¦ afphaltum, ibid.
 nephriticum, ibid.
Liguftrum vulgare, i. 35
¦Lily of the Valley, ii. 146
Ltmodorum Tankervillia, i. 32
Linum hirfutum, iii. 87
 tenuifolium, iii. 88
Lithofpermum fruticofum,\, 160,225
—  ¦ — purpuro-caruleum, ii. 97
Lizards, ii. 64. iii. 147
Lotus hirfutus, iii. 90 .
Lumachello marble, ii. 140, "167
Luna cornea, iii. 148
Lupinus integrifolius, i. 31
Lychnis dioicafii. 146 2 Eycopodium

Lycopodium denticulatum, ii. 69
Lycopfis bulldta, ii. 96
,  — variegata, ibid. M.
Maiden-hair, i. 256
Mantis religio fa, i. 16 1
Marchantia hemifphtsrica, ,i. 175
 triandra, ii. 148
Maftic-tree, i. 160. ii. 68, 73, 138
Materia medica, i. 183.il. 330, 415— -418. iii. 97
May, Italian, ii. 304
Mazza-prete, iii. 88
Meadows, alpine, iii. 135, 160
Medals of ftalaftite, ii. 59
Medic ago arborea, ii. 1 10
Melanthium punitatum, i. 30
Melampyrum' arvenfe, iii. 15
 — nemorofum, iii. 142
 fylvaticum, iii. 140
Melianthus, ii. 296
Melica ciliata, iii. 19
Meliffa Nepeta, i. 149
Melittis Meliffophyllum, iii. 88
Meloe dehor ii, iii. 95
Menyanthes nymphoides, i. 7, 20
Mercurialis tomentofa, i. 160
Mefptlus Chamamefpilus, iii. 130
¦ Pyracanthus, i. 324.
Mezereon, ii. 129
Mignonette, ii. 63
Mimefa Julibrijftn, iii. 115

Minerals,

( m )
Minerals, collections ofj ii. 58, 331. iii, 96
Models of fucculent plants, i. 314
Monnieria, i. 71
Mufcle, ftone-eating, ii. 107
Mufeums of Natural Hiftory, i. 14, 31, 36, 118, 133,
134, 144, 165, 168, 257, 312—316, 329.
"• 57> 33°. 4H- »»• "j 66, 70, 90, 96, 113,
114, 148, 172, 183
Myrita ,trifoliata, i. 31
Myrmeleon libelluloides, iii. 88, 96
Myrobalans, ii. 416
Myrtle-leaves, their ufe, ii. 72
Myrtus communis, i. 189, 20 1, 222, 256. ii. 99, 128
MytHus lithophagus, ii. 107. N.
NarciJJus pfeudo-narciffus, ii. 146
Nephriticus, lapis, ii. 416
Nerium Oleander, i. 220
Nicotiana fruticofa, ii; 107
Nomenclature, i. 38, 121. iii. 150
Nymphaa alba, 1. 7
Nyffa aquatica, iii. 1 14. O.
Olea laur if alia, i. 12
Oleander, i. 220
Olives, i. 15 r, 223
Onifcus variegatus, i. 176
Ononis capenfts, i. 31
 cernua, ibid.
Onofma, echioides, ii. 308 - Onofmct,

( 304 )
Onofma, a new fpecies, i. 71
Ophrys adrachnites, ii. 295
 anthropophora, ii. 307
 • apifera, ibid.
 aranifera, ii. 284
caffra, i. 31
 catholica, i. 31

" cructgera, 11. 295
Orange-trees, i. 186, 191, 203. iii* 89
Oranges, red, ii. 65
Orchall, i. 198
Orcfiidea, iii. 65
Orchis b'icornis, i. 31
 cor nut a, ibid.
¦¦ ' - fiexuofa, ibid.
——.- militaris, ii. 294, 295
" moravica, ii. 295
— — morto, ii. 294
 papilionacea, ibid.
—  rubra, ii. 284, 294
— — - fatyrioides, i. 31
<  varie gat a, ii. 307
Orobanche major, ii. 308
Oftrich, i, 14
Ofyris alba, i. 160
Oyfters, foflil, i. 163. P.
Palm-trees, i. n, 190, 265
Papilio's, rare fpecies of, i. 14, ng
Papilio Antiope, iii. 96, 162.-'
¦ Apollo, iii. 135 Papilla

( 3°5

Papilio Circe, iii. 96
¦  Eleclra, i. 218
-J  Hecuba, i. 1 18
—  Latonia, iii. 117

— Podalirius, i. 72. iii. 96
— R.umina, iii. 117

Papyrus, ii. 353
Parian marble, ii. 39, 320
Parietdria lufitanica, ii. 294
 officinalis, ii. 74
Pajferina hirfuta, ii, 101
Pajfiflora carulea, iii. 151
 incarnata, ibid.
Pedicularis, iii. 127
Pelican, i. 71
Perdicium femiflofculare, i. 31
Perfpiration of trees, ii. 325
Petrifactions, iii. 113
Phalana Coffus, i. 37. iii, 1 13
- Hera, iii. 96
Phalaris paradoxa, ii. 293
— — —- utriculata, ii. 64, 293
Phleum alpinum, iii. 128
Phcenix'daflylifera, i. 1 90
Phofphorusof Bologna, ii. 354
Phyfiology of Vegetables, iii. 150
Phyteuma fpicata, iii. 78
Pinus Pinea, ii. 149, 226
Piflacia Lentifcus, i. 160. ii. 68, 138
Pifum Ochrus, i. 338
Plants, remarks on, ii. 63 — 65, 145, 293—296
Plafma di Smeraldo, iii. 97
Vol. III. # Plumbago

( 306 )
Plumbago europxa, i, 21,0
Plumieria alba, iii. 114
— —  rubra, ibid.
Poa bulbofa, ii. 170
 Eragrojlis, i. 226
Polycarpon tetraphyllum, ii. 294
Polypodium leptophyllum, i. 189. ii. 105,
Pomegranates, i. 201
Poplars of Lombardy, iii. 24, 62
Porphyries, i. 268
Potentilla anferina, ii. 2g6
—  grandifora, iii. 19

— rupeftris, iii. 161

Praftum maj us, ii. 68
Privet, i. 35
Prunellas, i. 194
Pforalea projlrata, i. 31
Pteris aquilina, ii. 99
-;  ere tic a, ii. 90
Pulmonaria officinalis, ii. 145
Pyr ola minor, iii. 131, I39j 15.5
¦ rotundifolia, iii. 131
 fecunda, iii. 139, 155
— — — unifora, iii. 139.
Quercus coccifera, i. 163
¦ Ilex, ibid. R.
Ragwort, marfh, i. 46
Rana arborea, i. 161

Ranunculus

( 307 )
Ranunculus aconitif alius, iii. 131
Red marble, antique, ii. 38
Ref eda Phyteuma, ii. 63
Rhapis fabelliformis, i. 12, 265
Rhinanthus Elephas, ii. 92 '""¦
Rhinoceros, i. 71
Rhododendrum ferrug'ineum, iii. 12S, 1 31
Rhus Cotinus, ii. 308
Riccia glauca, ii. 64
JLicinus communis, iii. 9
Rofa alpina, iii. 130, 133
 gallic a, i. 222
Rofmarinus officinalis, i. 164
Roflb antico marble, ii. 38, .171, 194
 di Verona marble, ii. 33a, 349, 377. iii. 5, 16
Roy ena luc'ida, i . 1 2
Rubus fruticofus, i. 222. ii. 73
.Rumex alpinus, iii. 136
» ar if alius, ibid.
Rupinia lichenoides, i. 1 75
Rufcus, i. 172. S.
Salix reticulata, iii. .132
 retufa, ibid.
 triandra, ii. 325
Salvia glutinofa, iii. 14Q
Sambucus racemofa, ibid.
Saponaria lutea, iii. 131 ' r
Saflafras, oriental, ii. 416
Satureja Thymbra, i. 150
Satyr ium capenfe, i. 31
¦ '- ' nigrum, iii. 135 X 2 Saxifraga.

( Jo8 )
Saxifraga cafia, iii; 134 v
' rotundifolia, iii. 133
Scabiofa gramuntia, i. 163
Scarabtsus Frifchii, iii. 93
— —  fuliginofus, iii. 94
•  fpeciofijfimus, iii, ^
 fliclicus, ibid.
Schoenanthus, i 1.417
S cilia bifolia, ii. 145
— — r campanulata, ii. 295
Scirpus Holofchasnus, i. 164, ,265
Scolymus maculatus, iii. 95
Scorpio Europesus, ii. 287
Scotino, a fhrub, ii. 308 ,
Scutellaria alpina, iii. 133
Selago csccinea, i. 30
<  Lychnidea, ibid.
Senecio Doronicum, iii. 136
¦  paludofus, i. 46 '
 perftcif alius, i. 31
— — umbellatus, ibid.
Senna, Scorpion, ii. 98, 291
Serapias Lingua, ii. 68. iii. 88
Serpentine ftone, ii.,178, 221
Sexes of Plants, iii. 170
Sheep, their favourite food, ii. 321
Silene, iii. 137 '
.  pendula, ii. 284
' Silpha grifea, ii. 288
Sinapis erucoides, i. 197
Sifymbrium tanacetifolium, iii. 131
Snowdrop, i. 332. ii. 145

Solanum

C 309 )
Solanum Pfeudo-Capficum, i. 187
Sonchus tenerrimus, ii. 296
Spartium capenfe, i. 30
¦  junceum, ii. 112
Sphinx Nerii, i. 220
Spica Ccltica, ii. 417
Spiraa hypericifolia, ii. 304
Stapelia hirfuta, i. 314
¦ variegata, i. 187
Sterculia platanifolia, iii. 9
Stock-flower, ii. 98
Storax tree, ii. 286—289, 291
Strelitzia regina, i. 12,25
Styrax officinale, ii. 286 — 289, 291
Sugar made from the Holcus, iii. 10
Sumach, myrtle-leaved, i. 203
Swtrtia perennis, iii. 136
Syngnathus Hippocampus, ii. 91
T.
Tamarix gallica, ii. 321
Targionia hypophylla, i. 175, 189. ii. 68, 69,' 73, 148
Tefludo coriacea, ii. 331
Teucrium flavum, \\. 296
— ,  Marum, i. 189
 Polium, i. 147, 148
Theliganum Cynocramhe, ii. 68, 295
Theriaca, ii. 415
Thlafpi faxatile, ii. 307
Thymus alpinus, ibid.
• vulgaris, i. 149
Tobacco, fhrubby, ii. 107 X 3 Toothwort*

( 3*° )
Toothwort, il. 81, 90
Touchftone, pretended, ii.8o, 250
Trachelium caruleum, ii. 296
Tragopogon Dalechampii, iii. 87
Trapa natans, i. 70
Tremella, its animal nature, iii. 150
Trifolium agrarium, iii. 127
¦ ¦ ; refupinatum, ii. 294
Trochus folaris, i. 37
Tropaolum aduncum, i. 158

majus, 111. 151
minus, ibid.

Turbo fcalaris, iii. 148
Tufftlago hybrids, ii. ,307.
u. V.
Vanilla, iii. 97
Ver at rum album, iii. j6o
Verbena triphylla, iii. 199
Verde antico, marble, ii. 193, 341, 374
Veronica acinjfolia, ii. 234
 . — alpina, iii. 160
—  aphylla, ibid.
' Chamadrys, iii, 93
Viburnum Tinus, i, 220
Viola bifora, iii. 140
¦ cenifa, iii. 135
Vitex Agnus cafus, i. 223
Umbilicus Veneris, ii. 416
Ungues odorati, ii. 417
Urchin, fea, ii. 70
Urtica wens, ii. 73

Water

( 3» )
W.
Water-lilies, i. 7
Willows, alpine, iii. 132. X.
Xanthium fpinofum, i. 160, Y.
Yellow antique marble, ii. 28.
z.
Zebra, i. 71.

X 4 GENERAL

GENERAL INDEX.

A,

wBBES, i. 140, 160, 263
Aberli, his views, iii. 167, 171
Academies of Arts, iii. 34, 44, J 15
.  ¦  bf Sciences, i. 130—132, 165, 181. ii. 62,
329
A&ors, ancient and modern, ii. 199
Acuto, Giovanni, i. 302
Adam, Cardinal, ii. 174
Adanfon, Mr. i. 121
Addifon, i. 284. ii, 302. iii. 263
Adige, river, ii. 361. iii. 16
Adonis, ftatue of, i. 285
Adrian, bulls of, ii. 223, 412
, his tomb, ii- 1 77, 278
— -— — , his villa, ii. 194, 286
Affp, Father, iii. 26, 31 S. Agatha,

( SH )
• S. Agatha, inn of, ii. 72
Agnano, lake of, ii. 108
S. Agnes, at Bologna, ii. 334
—— — — , at Rome, ii. 43
Agriculture, Society of, i. 126, 130
Agrippina, her fmppofed tomb, ii, 9$ '
Aix, i. 177
Albani, Cardinal, ii. 253
 , villa, ii. 245, 253—257
Albano, (painter) ii. 340, 345, 353
— :  * town of, -ii. 66
Albany, Duchefs of, ii. 47, 259
Albenga, i. 222
Albergo at Genoa, i. 243
Albertus magnus, ii, 368
Aldobrandini villa, ii. 148, 240
Aleflandria, iii. 104
Alexander VI. Pope, i. 354. ii. 244, 279
,  *. VII. Pope, i. 352
Algardi, i. 349. ii. 171,333. iii. 108
Algarotti, i. 270
Aliberti theatre, ii. 54
AHarnand, Profeflbr, i. 13, 16
Allaflio, i. 219
Allegorical pictures, ii. 217, 405
Allioni; Profeflbr, iii. ] n-r-i 13, 135
Almanack, Ruffian, ii. 199
Alps, iii. 123, 126—139, *53
Ambafladors at Turin, iii. 1 1 8, 12$
Ambrogian library, iii. 46
3. Ambrofe, iii. 53, 58
Atnethyft -tables, ii. 410

Amiens,

i 3*5 )
Amiens, iii. 228 > ,
Amphitheatres, i. 151, 197.11.104,117, 2801, 282. iii. 15
Amfterdam, i. 21 — 31
Anatomical preparations, i. 15, 327
 fchools, ii. 330. iii. 8, 66
Ancona, ii, 320
S.Andrew, churches of, ii, 156, 158
S. Angelo, caftle of, ii. 278
S. Angiolo in Pefcheria, ii, 1.73
Animals, ftatues of, ii, 190
Antenor, tomb of, iii. 7
S. Anthony, i. 238. ii. 134
1  —  of Padua, iii. 4, 5
Antibes,. i. 201
Antichrift, hiftory of, ii. 45
Antinous, ftatues of, ii. 186, 208,255, 256
Antoninus Pius, ii. 235, 254
Antwerp, i. 48 — 56
S. Apollinare, ii. 260
Apollo, temple of, ii, 102
—  ftatues of, i. 278, 282. ii. 182
Apoftles, church ofthe, ii. 166
Appian wajj, ii. 105
A quapendente, i. 332
Aqueducts, i. 156, 192, 197. ii. 304
Arcadi, academy of, ii. 62
Archangelo, ii, 323
Archduke of Milan, iii. 61
Arches, triumphal, ii. 203, 280, 310, 320, 322, 323,
iii. 14, 19
Architecture, its delicacy, i. 280
^rcofeJiice, ii. 10$ Arduino,

( 3*°* >
Arduino, an Englifh faint, ii. 144
.  — , Prbfeflbr, iii. 9
Aretin, his tomb and character, ii. 37CV
, Leonard, i. 300
Ariadne, bufts of, ii. 194, 209
Ariofto, Crifpo, iii. 5
Ariftocratic tyranny, iii. 202—205, 286
Arno, vale of, i. 274
¦Arpino, Cavalier, ii. 148, 175, 202, 216
Arria and Poetus, fuppofed group of, ii. 235
Arfenals,ii. 368. iii. 113
Arveron, river, iii. 159
Afbeftos cloth, ii. 201
Afcenfion day at Venice, ii. 395
Aft* Wednefday, its ceremonies, ii. 56
Afinelli, tower of, Ji. 328
Auban, Mr. i. 186
Aubenton, Mr. i. 119 ,
Avernus, lake of, ii. 10 1, 105
Sr Auguftine, ii. 152
Auguftus, ftatue pf, ii. 17
Avignon, i. 172— TI77
Auriol, i. 148
Aurora of Guercino, ii. 238
Auftfians routed, i, 242. iii. 87
Autun, i. 138. B,
Baias, ii. 96— 103
Baking-office of Genoa, iii. 98
Balbi palaces, i. 251 — -254, 256
Baldus, mount, ii. 329. iii, 15, 19 Baleftra,

( 3*7 )
Baleftra, ii. 378
Bandinelli, i. 275
Bandini chapel, ii. 171
Bannal, Mr. i. 158
Baptifm, ceremony of, i. 325
Baptifteries, i. 272, 301, 325. ii. 35
Barbarigo palace, ii. 406
Barbaro, monte, ii. 103
Barberini chapel, ii. 159
 —palace, ii. 63, 214 — 218
Barclay, John, his burial-place, ii. 18
Baretti, iii. 264, 280
S. Bartholomew, church of, ii. 173
 , ftatue of, iii. 51
Bafle, iii. 176 — 183
Baffin, ii. 215, 384, 404
 Leandro, ii. 371
Batt, Dr. i. 229, 257, 326
Battaille, Mr. i. 190
Battoni, ii. 43, 164
Bauhins, their herbarium, iii. 182
 — , their tombs, iii. 1 78
Beauchamp, Mr. i.207
Beggars, ii. 74
Bellardi, Dr. iii. 1 15, 126, 129, 135
Bellarmin, his tomb, ii. 156
Belleval, Richier de, i. 158
Bellica, colonna, ii, 223
Bellino, ii. 345>.377> 379- »•• H
Belvedere Apollo, ii. 182 — 186
 gallery, ii. 1 81, 198
¦ gardens, ii. 64

Bembo,

( 3*8 )
Bembo, Cardinal, his tomb, iii. 4
S. Benedict, his relicks, ii. 139
Benedict XIII. Pope, ii. 154
 XIV. Pope, ii. 202, 204 — 207, 281,331
Benedictines, ii. 141, 177, 381
Berchem, Mr. Van, iii. 170
S. Bernard, Mount, iii. i6x
Bernay, iii. 228
Berne, iii. 171 — 175_
Bernini, i. 350, 352. ii. 4, 25, 73, 156, 158, 170, 175,
• 218, 238, 248
Bernouilli, Mr. iii. 181
Bertier, Mr. i. 128
Beflbn, Mr. i. 134
Bex, iii. 162 — 166
Bianchi, ii. 165
S. Bibiana, ii. 170
Bilivert, i. 293
Bifmuth, ks ufe, iii. 147
Blair's hut, iii, 158
Blanc, Mont, iii. 152, 154, 169
Blood of S. Januarius, ii. 79
 of Chrift, iii. 24
Boboli garden, i. 311
Bocca della verita, ii. 41
Bocchetta mountain, iii. 78, 104
Boccone, i. 12. iii. 97
Bodoni, Mr. iii. 36
Boerhaave, i. 10, 15
Boleyn, Anne, her letters, ii. 200 ,
Bologna, ii. 328 — 354
¦  , Giovanni di, i. 266. ii. 233, 349
3 Bolfene,

( 3^9 )
Bolfene, i. 333
Bonanno, i. 267 ,
Bonazza, ii. 372
Bonfadio, u 239
Boniface, Mr. i. 148 \
Bonnet, Mr. iii. 149
Bordone, Paris, i. 254. ij. 373
Borghefe, Cardinal Scipio, ii. 15S, 246
 chapel, ii. 31
 palace, ii. 212—214
¦  villa, ii. 245 — 253- iai. 25S.
Borghetto, ii. 301
Borgo forte, iii. 24
Boromeo, S. Charles, iii. 46, 5 c — 53
Borone, Francis, iii. 131, 162
Boffbns, glacier of, iii. 155 '
Both, landfcape painter, i. 55. ii. 227
Uouflers, Duke de, i. 234
Boulogne, iii. 229
Bourbon, Abbe de, ii. 75— 78
Bourdon, Sebaftian, i. 166
Bower's Hiftory ofthe Popes, ii. 140
Boys in bird's nefts, ii. 190
 in a difh, ii. 22 £
Bracciano palace, ii. 258
Bramante, ii. 316. iii. 55
Brandi, Giacinto, ii. 177
Breccia, ii. 195, 251, 256, 367
Brenta river, iii. 2
Brera, College of, iii. 44
Brefullo, iii. 25
Breteuil, iii, 228

Breughel,

( 32° )
Breughel, i. 252, 254. ii. 226. iii. 47
Brigancieres, i. 191
Brignole palace, i. 254
Brignolles, i. 194
Brill, the, i. 4
Bronzino, Angelo, i. 293
Brouffonet, Mr. i. 68, 126, 154
Bruges, John of, ii. 410
Brule, Alberto di, ii. 38 1
Brun, le, i. 82. iii. 189, 191
Bruffels, i. 57 — 6©
Buccleugh, Duke of, iii. 12
Bucentaur, ii. 369, 396 — 398
BufFon, Count de, i. 38, 120
Bulliard, Mr. i. 125
Buon Convento, i. 330
Buonvicino, Dr. iii. 126
Burial, i. 307. ii. 283, 309
Burman, Profeflbr, i. 29
Burrini, ii. 333
Bufts, antique, i. 249, 290 — 293
Butini, Dn iii. 147. C.
Cselius, mons, ii. 42
Csefalpinus, i. 301. ii. 288
CafFarena, Mr. iii. 89
Caffeaus, ii. 231
Calandrelli, Abbe, ii. 58
Calafhes, Neapolitan, ii. 1 12
Caligula's bridge, ii. 97
Calvart, ii. 340, 353 Camaldulenfes,

C -32t )
Camaldulenfes, ii. 90, 159
Cambray, i. 6t — 63
Campagna, ii. 391. iii. 5
Campania felice, ii. 105
— —  of Rome, i. 338. ii. 149, 281
Campo Marone,. iii.-79
' Santo, i. 269 ,
— — vaccino, ii. 43, 280
Canacea, fuppofed figure of, ii. 236
Canaletti, ii. 410
Canal, Count, iii. 114
Canals of, Holland, i. 6, 8
Caneferi, Dr. i. 256. iii- 91
Caniacci, Guido, ii. 224, 353
Cannes, i. 201
Canoniei, Abbe, ii. 413
Canterbury, iii. 234^23(5
Capitol, ii. 1 — 3, 202^211. iii. 251
Capo di Monte palace, ii. 86
Cappucino, i. 251
Capua, ii. 73, 132 ;
S. Carlo ai catenari, ii. 172
.. al corfo, ii. 28
 theatre of, at Naples, ii. 86
Carnival, i, 318. ii. 45 — 54
Carracalla, ii. 256, 281
Carraci, Annibal, i. 24g, 250. ii. 18, 27, 87, 225,
228, 242, 341, 345, 349- «»• ,28> '?0> IQ3
, Agoftino, ii. 332, 348, 349
-, Ludovico, ii. 226, 339, 340, 345, 347, 350,
;, :352- "i- 39
Carriages, French, iii. 200
.V©L, III. ' Y Carthufians,

• ( ' $** )
Carthufians, ii. 83—85, 161 — 166. iii. 62
Cartoons, iii. 40
Cafcade of Terni, ii. 302
 of Tivoli, ii. 291
Caferta, ii. 1 26 — 132
Caflino, Monte, ii. I26, 134—144
Caftagna, la, iii. 89
Caftello nuovo, ii. 300
.  San Pietro, ii. 325
Caftelnau, i. 160
Caftiglione, ii. 216, 228
Gzftiglioni family, iii., 62
Caftor and Pollux, ii. 3
Cafts, their defects, i, 277. ii. tSz
Catacombs, ii. 88
. Catharine of Medicis, i. 83, 85. ii. 44.
 Vigri, Saint, u. 342, 343
Cathedral of the world, ii. 32
Cattaneo, Marquis, i. 237 1
Cattolica, la, ii. 322
Cavallo, Monte, if. 3, 229
Cavedone, ii. 338
Cavolini, Don, ii. 90
Cavona, fculptor, ii. 167
Caylus, Count, i. 82
S.Cecilia, monaftery of, ii. 174
Cellini, Benvenuto, i. 475
Cenis, Mount, iii. 127—139
Cento Camere," ii. 105
Cepede, Count de la, 'i. at
Ceremonies, i. 325. ii. 21, 31, £&V77j 165, 168,259,
•,.,_ 276> 2&3> 338, 39S«sHfc 4*' -r* ;
A.i '^^erini,

( 3*3 )
Cerini, ii. 349
Cefene, ii. 323
Ceftius, his tomb, ii. 283 '
Chalons, i. 138
Chambery, iii. 143
Chamouni, iii. 154 — 159, 166
Chantilly, i. 90 — 96. iii. 204, 228
Charnace, Count de, i. 144, 168
Chartreux at Naples, iu §3—85
 at Rome, ii. 161 — 166.
S. Chiara, ii. 78
Chiarini, ii. 352
Chienti, river, ii. 307
Chigi'chapel, ii. 25
China manufactory, ii,- 89 r ,
Chiufa, ii. 361
Chrift, fine ftatues of, ii, 81, ,154
Chriftina, Queen, i. 345,. 350. ii. 232, 3.18
S. Chryfogonus, ii. 175
Church-hunting, iii. 229 .. . • mi-
Church of S. Peter at Rome, ). 344—35^.
Churches of Bologna, ^, 33,2-— 342
— — — Florence^ i.' 298—309
¦ 1  Genoa, i. 232—235 -
— —  Milan, iii. co — 60
— rrr^rrr- fcfoples,. ii? 7J8— 8§
— — — — '¦ — Padoua, iii. 4— -7
 '¦¦  Paris, i. 76-^8^ 0 , :, .'. ( _.
 Rome, i. 344—356- & ^-r^^^^T
179 j , ~9V.\

Venice, ii. 366 — 394

Cicciaporci palace, ii. 231 J 2 Cicero,

( 324 )
Cicero, his monument, ii. 70
¦— — ;  villa, ii-r 71, 147
Cicifbeos, iii, 101
Cielings, their decoration, i. 355
Cigna, Dr. iii. 115
Cignano, Carlo, ii. 215
Ciprano, ii. 144
Circello, Monte, ii. 67, 106
Circulation of the blood, i. 333. iii. 11
Civita Caftellana, ii.'Jbo
Clarens, iii. 167 ,
Claude Lorraine, i. 323
Clement VII. Pope, ii. 154
 VIII. ii. 31
'• XII. ii. 34, 202, 324, 414
 XIII. ii. 202
 XIV. ii. 166, 243, 3*3
Cleopatra, pretended, ii. 192 - ¦-
Climate of the Apennines, ii. 307
 Rome, ii. 235, 297
¦ Turin, iii. 123
—  Venice,; ii. 369, 383, 39^
Clitumnus, river, ii. 304
Club of literati, ii. 61
Clufius, i. 11. iii. 128
Cochin, ii. 88, 338, 339, 343, 346: iu.^^6j- —
Coffee, ii. 324 n '"
Coglione, Bartolomeo, ii. 370 ¦
ColSng^u/60 '' •\1-,-ir£.
Col de Balme, iii. 159
Colbert, i. 81 A^l
Colle, Mr. i. 183 Colorina

( 325 )
.Colonna palace, ii. 221— 224
Colofleum, ii. 64, 280.. iii. 256
Columbus, i. 237. iii. 149
Columna's Ecphrafis, i. 317
'  ~ Phytobafanos, iii. 183
Conca, Chevalier, i. 329 '
Conception, church of, ii. 27
Conde, the great, i. 94
Confervatories of Venice, ii. 375^ 376
Contarini, ii. 406
Conti, i. 57
Cprniche rpad, i. 205, 2J.6— 226
Cornigliano, iii.- 90
Corpus Domini, iii. 39, 41
Corradini, ii. 82
Correa, Abbe, ,i, 340. iii. uS
Corregio, i. 252. iii. 27—30, 34.-36
Corfini chapel, ii. 34
 —palace, ii. 258
Corfo at Rome, ii. 46
Cortona, Pietfoda, i. 310. ii. 28, 29, 171, 172, 216
Cofmo I, his ftatue, i. 276
Cottignac, i, 194
Coyer, Abbe, iii. 266
Coypel, i. 94
Cranmer, Archbifhop, i. 295
Crater of VefUvius, i. 114 — 116
Crefpi, ii. 344
Criftofori, ii, 230
S. Crpce in Gerufalemme, ii. 170
Crofs, adoration ofthe, ii. 265 — 267
Cuma, ii. 105
Y3 C^i,

I 3** )
Cupi, ii. 332
Cupid and Pfyche, ii. 11 — 16
Cuffbn, Mr. i. 164
Cuftom-houfe officers, iii. 22, 40, 233, 234
Cyrilli, Dr. ii. 90, 90. D. ;
Damien, iii. 213.
Dana, Profeffor^ iii. 1 14
Dante, iii. 247
Daphne, ftatue of, ii. 248
David, ftatue of, ibid.
Dauphin, father of Louis XVI. i, 137. iii, 214
Davall, Mr. iii. 158
Dealer in pictures, ii. 410
Death, dance of, iii. 181
De la Lande, ii. £33, 247, 316. iii. 50, 58, 267
Delci, Cardinal," ii.' 169
Delft, i. 7, 39—43
De Luc, Mr. iii. 148
Denis, Abbey pf St. i. 84 — 88. iij. 244
— -, St. feftival of, -iii. 1,93
De Sauffure, Mr. iii. 152'
Desfontaines, Profeffor, i. 125
Devin de village, iii. 144
De vos, i. 52
Diana of Ephefus, ii, 256
Diogenes, portrait of, ibid.
Doctor's degree conferred, i. 165. iii. "68
r—  ¦  : — — — '.on a ladjyiji, 4

Doge of Genoa, iij- 84—8.6
, ' * ' -'- C .'.. ,':tx: ,- r- ;.
 of Venice, ii. 395 — 398
sDjolce, Carlo, i. 249 Polo,

C 3*7* )
Dolo, iii. 3 t
Dombey, Mr. i. 71
Si Domenic, i. 349. H..334 ¦
Domenichino, i. 250, 348. ii. 18, 158, 171, ijra, 176*
2'3>334> 336, 352. in. 190
Domes of Rome, i. 338
Domitian, ftajue of,:ji. 254
Donatello, iii. 5
Doria, "Andrew, i. 237
 -, Count, iii. 89
 palace, ii. 224 — 229
Dorthes, Mr. i. 162, 164
Dover, iii. 232 — 234
Doves, mofaic of, ii. 209) ', -
Dow, Gerard, iii. 106
Draguignan, i. 196
Drivers, French, iii. 201
Browning, accidental, ii. 401-
Duchefsr of-Parma, iii. 30
Duellifts, i. 187
DuBaty, i. 244. iii, 268
Durance, river, i. 177. iii. 162
Durazzo famify, i. .22B, .233,. 237, 246—251, 257.
iii. 83, 84, 86, 90, 93
f<  *— palaces, i. 246 — 2§i
Durer, Albert, ii. 225, 352; 408
Dutch, their character, i. 43 — 45^ 50.
r- i
E. ;:
Eafter, its ceremonies, ij« 27*— $-278 ;;
Egeria, fountain of, ii; 283
Egyptian ftatues, ii. 194, 2373 E515, .256, a8§
Y 4 Election

( 1*8 )
Election of a Doge of Genoa, iii. 84
Electricity, iii. 182
5. Elmo, caftle of, ii. 84
E'lyfian fields, ii. 97
Embalmed bodies, iii. 186
Emerald cup, i. 232
Emperors, their bufts, i. 249, 290— 293
Epitaphs, i. 27, 42, 53, 54, 82, 87, 99, 299, 3©©.
ii.26, no, 153, 162, 163, 176, hi, 177, 178
Erafmus, remains of, iii. 178 — 18.Q
.  — his ftatue, i. 6 1
'¦ ' his tomb, iii. 178
Ermenonville, i. 96 — 105
Efculapius, temple of, ii. 173
Efte, villa of, ii. 28g
Etrufcan altar, ii. 252
Exchaquet, Mr. iii. 154
Expreffion, i. 23, 37, 40, 51, 81, 169, 244, 253, 279-.
284, 290,293, 297, 350, 352.fi. 7—1-6,-23, 27,
40, 157, 159,165, 171, 173,182,187,189,
192, 204, 219, 227, 229, 238, 240, 333,
346, 392. iii. 107
Eyes, how reprefented in fculpture, i. 297;
F.
Fabricius ab Aquapendente, i. 333
Fabroni, Mr. i. 31$
Faenza, ii. 315, 325
Fair of Mantua, iii. 23 .Ii
 : — S. Mark/ ii. 399, 42 j
— — — Padoua, iii. 7 '-.
Jalernuwyiwine of, ii. 103 Faaif,

( 32-9 )
Fame, painting of, ii. 239 .
Familiar ftyle, its delicacy, iiii 282
Fano, ii. 322
Farnefe, Alexander, his tomb, iii. 27
 palace, ii, 1 8
¦ '» pictures, ii. 86
Farnefina, ii. ji
Faroudi, Mr, i, 203
Farfetti palaCe, ii. 467 — 41 0
Fafting, ii, 274
Faujas, Mr. i. J48, 200
Faun, dancing, i. 282
 fleeping, ii. % 18
S. Felice, ii. 132
S. Felix, ii. 305
¦ II. Pope, iii, 5
Felizano, iii. 105
Fenelon, i. 62
Ferber, ii. 287. iii. 174, 269
Ferrara, ii. 359
\ Criftoforo di, ii. 392
' '. Gaudenzio di, iii. 57
a . Scarcellino di, ii. 350
Feuille, i. 133
Fiamingo, ii. 158. iii. 40
Fiafcorie, Monte, i. 334
Finale, i. 224
Fiorentino, Julio, ii. 351
Firenzuola, iii. 38
Fireworks, ii. 277
Fleury, Cardinal, i. 197
Flexible marble, ii. 214

Flora,

C 3& j
Flora, antique ftatues of, ii. 20, 224
Florence, i. 275—322
Eloris, i, 52, 294
Foix, Gafton de, iii. 46
Foligno, ii. 305
Fondi, ill 68
Fontana, Abbe, i. 314
— — — '- Father, iii. 70
 Lavinia, ii. 348, 356
— — - fculptor, iii. 55
Forli, ii. 324
Fortuna virilis, temple of, ii. 42
Forum, columns of, i. 280
Fountains, i. 177, 345. ii- 4—6, 284
Fountayne, Mr, his colkaion of Raphael's, earthen.
ware, ii, 315
S. Francefca Romana, u. 43
Francefchini, ii, 351
S. Francefco a ripa, ii. 1 74
Francis I. i. 78, 86, 204. iij. 191
Francucci, ii. 350
Frafcati, ii. 147
Frederick the Great, i. 276
Frejus, i. 197
French, their character, i. 63-~6,5, 134. iii, 199 — 208,
212
Frefco painting, fine, iii. 39, . __, .
1 1 - remarks on, ii* 238 ;;;'
Froffard, Mr. i. 143
Fumiani, ri. 390 ., -;' v- ¦'} •
Funerals, ii, 77, 168, 169. iii."i7| ;... V-; ....
./'AA
Gabrielle

( 33* y

G.
Gabrielle d'Eftrees, i. 104
Gaetano, ii. 213
Galatea, ii. 16
Galileo, i. 301
Gallery of Florence, i. 275 — 298
Galley flaves, i. 204
Gallienus, iii. 19
Gallini, Profeffor, iii. 10
Game-laws, iii. 202
Ganganelli, his tomb, ii. 166
Garde meuble, iii, 191
Garden of Caferta, ii. 1 27
Gardens, Dutch, i. 7, 33
 of Genoa, iii. 80,, 89
 of Rome, ii. 149, 233^235-, 246,257, 290
Gardon, river, i. 1 50
Gariflendi, tower of, ii. 329
Garofalo, Benvenuto, ii. 242, 333
Generofity, Italian, ii. 362
Geneva, iii. 144—152
 , lake of, iii. 166 — 1'68
Genoa, i. 227 — 259, iii. 80—103
Genoefe, their character, i. 240', 251, 258. iii. 100—
103
Genthod, iii. 149
Gerard, Mr. i. 193—196'
$. Germain en laye, i. 71
S. Germano, ftoves of, ii. to8
v. — ••,  , town of, ii. 133— 137, I42 Gesu>

( 33* )
Ges% chu/ch of, ii. 155
Gherardo delle notti, ii. 218
Giallo antico marble, ii. 28
Gillibert, Mr. i.143 "¦
Grnetti chapel, ii. 159 ,
Giordano, Luca, i. 249, 254, 293, 294, 308, ii. 83,
*39> 228, 383, 410
Giofna, Mr. iii. 1*7
Giotto, i. 269. ii. 333. iii. 7
S. Giovanni in Laterano, ii. 32—38
Giraad villa, ii. 258
S. GirOlamo, ii. 176
Giudeca, canal of, ii. 398
Gtulia villa, ii. 243
S. Giuftina's church at Padoua, iii. 6
Giuftiniani palace, ii. 218— 22 1
Glaciers, iii. 153— 16©
:Gladiator, ii. 235, 248
Glafs, antique, ii. 122
— — , manufactory of, ii. 418—420
Gloriofiffimus, its meaning, iii. 1 08
Gloucefter, Puke of, ii. 268 ¦
Gobelin tapeftry, ii. 52, 222
Goethe, M, von, ii. 129
Goitres, iii, 156
Gold lace, antique, ii, 123
Golfa della Spetia, i, 262
Gondolas of Venice, ii. 398
Gonzaga, S. Louis, ii. 156
S, Gothard, Mount, iii. 161
Gothic architecture, iii. 50, 55,. 228,235
Gouan, Profeflbr, i. 164 Governments,

( 333 5
Governments, i. 26, 49, 140, 259, 319. iii. 223, 22+
Graduati©ns,medicali i. 165. iij. 68
Graffer, Mr. ii. 127 — 129
Gramont, wood of, i. 163
Granier, Mr. u 10S
Granite columns, i. 267, 272
Graffi palace, ii. 407'
Gratiani, ii. 337
Grecian fculpture, i. 279. ii. 7 1, 188,385,412
Greek patriarch, ii. -271
S. Gregory the Great, ii. 41
Gregory XI. Pope, ii. 43
Grimaldi, Duke of, iii. 92
Grotius, i. 42
Grotta del cane, ii. 109
Guarini, his manufcript, ii. 413
Guaftalla, iii. 24, 27
Gaercino, i. 347. ii. 204, 215, 217, 229, 238, 336—
338> 3+o, 344> 345. 348, 351. iii. 39* So,
106 „.,
Guidebooks, iii. 241—261
Guido Rheni/i, 234, 252, 254. ii 27, S^ #7,204,
205, 214, 215,222, 22g> 230, 333, 338—34^
343. 345—348, 35?
Guftavus HL king of Sweden, i. -97, 262..
H..
Haerkm, i. 20, 21, 3T, 32
Hague, the, i. 33—39
Haller, his library and herbarium, iii. 45,65,69,174
¦ his poems, iii. 175
his -fen, iii,! 171 '
:-,'¦ i, HameJ,

( 3.H )
H^meT^ Mr,, du, i. 11$. ii. 325
Hamilton, SirWilfiam, ii. 91, 126, 129, 13a
Hanging towers, i. 271. ii.328,. 329
Harewood in Ybrkfhire, i. 356
Harwich, i. 2
Hawkwood, Sir John, i. 302 ,
Heights on Mount Cenis, iii. 13&
Helvetic College, iii. 46
Helvoetyi. 3 ,
Henry II. of France, i. 83, 85. iii. 191
 III. ii. 318
 IV. i. 87, 94, 104, 130, 158, 166, 287. iii. 192
 VIII. of England, his lexers and. book, ii. 200

 IX. of Great Britain, ii. 290
Herculaneum, ii. 117
Hercules of Farnefe, ii. 19
— of the Vatican, ii. 189
Heretics, danger of their getting to Heaven, ii, 283
.Herman, i. 13 ; ,, _ -
.  , Profeffor at Strafburgh, iii. 183
Hermaphrodite, ftatues of} i. 284. ii. 15,7* 251
HtWamis^ Fabricius, .his {emh,. iij. IJS4,,
Hindelbanck, iii> 179V. .
Hiftpry, ftudy of, iii. 225
Holbein, ii. 227. iii. 178 — 181
Holy week, its ceremonies, ii. 259—274
Homer, his apotheofis, ii.224
Honthorft, ii. 218, 252 s
Horace mifquoted, ii. 99
H9fi>ifcds> ;i,.lI4^.i^fiijAS#JsfS4%*'^4ti<tJP8fi »*• 4^
5°>v66 H1 -:
Hofpital on Mount Cenis, u\.\j^(y,\i.
:i 3 Hot

(-335 )
"Hot baths, il. loo ,
Houghton colkaion, its fad fate, ii. 206
Houyttin, Dr. i. a-8 ,'-t. ¦
Hugoiino, Count, i. 264* iii. -247
S. Humphrey, ii. 18
Hunting feats, iii. 1 1 1
Hyeres, i. 188 — 191
Hypocrify,, its fuccefs, ii. 2^o» .
. r.
James II. of England, i. 80
S. Januarius, ii. 79, 104
Jaquier, FathiF, ii. 59 — 61
Jafmine, fhowerof, ii 31
"Ice, how ufed at Turin, iii.. J 24
Idolatry, u 56. ii. 325
S.1 Jean de Maurienne, iii. 140 — 142
S. Jerome, pi&ures of,' ii. J76. iiu 35
Jefuits, ii. 168, 279, 414. iii. 87
———, their churches, ii. 155, 156,374
— — , their colleges, ' ii. 58. iii. 44
Jews, i. 26. ii. 280, 409
 converted, ii. 276
S. Ignatius, his church, ii. 156
 , his fhrine, ii. 155
Illumination of Genoa, iii. 81
Image worfhip, ii. 30, 325* 338
Imbert, Mr. i. 144 " '
Imoia, ii. 325
Improvifatori, ii. 401
Infallibility of the Pope, ii. 201, 414

Inlaid

.( 33* >
Inlaid work, i. 59, 285, 308, 311,325. ii. 28, 152,
367*374- i"-6
Innocent X. Pope, ii. 43, 202, 241
¦ XI. Pope, i. . 352
Inns, i. 146, 220, 262, 273, 32r, 332, 337, 339.
ii. 72, 136, 149, 301, 307,325,. 362. iii. 12,
38, 77> i°5, 177
Infcriptions, i. 35, 56, 78, 9$, 101, 103, 105, 120,
*38>239> 270. ii. 26, 40, no, 144, 153, 162,
163,, 171, i7M9$> 198, 206, 249,306, 314,
325. iii. 16, 188
Inftituto di Bologna, ii. 329
Inftruments, mathematical, iii. 45, 70
Intermittent fevers, iii. ir
Invalids, Hotel des, i. 84
Joan queen of Naples, ii. 242
S. John Baptift, his relicks, i. 233
John ef Bologna, i. 275, 308
S.John Lateran, ii. 32—38
S.John of Raphael, i. 282—284. "• 343
John, king of England, his brutal tyranny, ii. 409
Johnfon, Dr. i. 108. iii. 108
Jomelli, ii. 260
Jonah, ftatue of, ii. 23
S. Jofeph, his fete, i. 191
Jofeph II. emperor, i. 97, 241, 271. ii. 264. iii. 19, 72
Joyius, Paul, i. 294, 317
Ifis, table of, iii. 116
 , temple of, ii. 336
Italinflca, Mr. ii. 92
Itri, ii. 69
Julius II. Pope, i. 353. ii. 39 Juljus

r 33? >
Julius HI. ii. 243
Juna, ftatue of, ii. 194
Jupiter,, ftatues of, ii. 192, 221, 269 "
<  Serapis, temple of, ii. 106
Juflieu, Mr. de, i. 122
Juftice, French, iii. 203, 204.
.A.- - K...
Kauffman, Angelica, ii. 91
Keyfler, iii. 270
Kid, how various in quality, ii. 301
King of Naples, ii. 13O. iii. 100
Kings of England, their portraits, i. 295. iii. in
¦ Sardinia, their tombs, iii. 108— 1 ix>
Kircher's Mufeum, ii. 58
Knavery, Neapolitan, ii. 70, 75, 137, 147
— ¦  , Venetian, ii. 420, 421,
\ ' " '
L.
Lachenal, Profeffor de, iii. 182
Lalande, M. de, ii. 23.3, 247, 316. iii. 50, 58, 267
Lamark, M. de, i. 123
Lancker, Van, i. 55
Landriani, Count, iii. 62
Landfcape, i. 323. ii. 114, 142, 149, 291. iii. 26, 54,
88, in, 131, 143, 154— 157> J59> Io6
Lanfranc, ii. 216
Langhans, Mrs. her tomb, iii. 176
Lanflebourg, iii. 139, 14P
Laocoon, ii. 188
Lapis vituperii, iii. 7-
Lauretti, ii. 202
Vol. HI. 2 ¦ Laufanne,

( 338 )
Laufanne, iii. 168 — 171
La wth, Profeffor, iii. 184
Leaures, i. 266. iii. 66, 68
Leewenhoek, i. 40
Le Gros, i. 349. ii. 156
Leo III. Pope, ii. 36
¦ — X. ii. 154
Leopold, Grand Duke, i. 307, 319 — 321. iii. 249
Lepanto, battle of, ii. 224
Lerici, i. 262
Leyden, i. 9 — 19
 , its fiege, i. 17
L'Heritier, Mr? i. 68, 124
Liberi, ii. 371 .
Libraries, i. 14, 132, 143, 169, 317, 329. ii. 63, 90,
139, r98> 287> ii0' 412—414. iii. 31, 45,46,
69, 90, 116,149, *78» l83
Lightning, forked, iii. 12, 75
Linnseus, i. 38,71, 72, 121, 329. ii. 65, 92, 142
L'Ifle, i. 176 .
Ladano, i. 223
Lodi, iii. 40
Loefling, iii. 92
Lorenzetto, ii. 24
Lorenzi, Artaldo di, iii. 55'
S. Lorenzo, i. 333. ii. 284
Loretto, ii. 310 — 319. iii. 259, 264"
Lorgues, i. 196
S. Louis, i. 79
Louis XII. iii. 47
¦  ~ XIII. i. 72, 85. iii. 212
 XIV. i. 72, 86. iii. 19-, 191, 212, 270
1 - Louis

( 3ttfJ
Louis XV. i. 78. iii. 185, 212— 21 §
 XVI. 1. 69, 73. iii. 215—217
S. Louifa Albertoni, ii. 175
Lucano, Ponte, ii. 286
Lucas van Leyden, i. 252, 254
Lucatelli, ii. 222
Lucius Verus, bufts of, ii. 249, 256
Lucrine lake, ii. 100
Ludovifi villa, ii. 64, 234
Lunghera, Baldiffera, ii. 383
Luvino, Bernardino, iii. 47
Lyonet, Mr. i. 36
Lyons, i. 141 — 144. M.
Macerate, ii. 309
Machiavel, i. 300
Maderno, ii. 174 ,
Madonna di Loreto, ii. 158
 del Sole, ii. 41
 della Vittoria, ii. 157
Maefe, river, i. 4, 46
Maeftricht fluice, i. 5
Maffei, Marquis, iii. 20
Magnani's guide-book, i. 342; ii. 159, 253. iii. 249
Magnetifm, animal, iii. 141
Maintenon, Madame, iii. 218
Maifon carree, i. 170
Malacarna, Mr. iii. 115
Mantegna, Andrea, ii. 227, 242. iii. 14
Mantua, iii. 23, 24
Manuel, ii. 70, 72, 165, 322, 384. iii. 5, 6, 56, 143,
271 Z 2 Marattij

f

340 )

Maratti, Carlo, ii. 26, 162, 172, 198, 216, 230
Marcellus, buft of, ii. 256
 , the conful, ii. 221
Marchefi, Signor, iii. 60
Marchona, Rocco, ii. 381
Marcoz, Dr. iii. 141
jWarcus Aurelius, i. 290. ii. 3, 249, 254. iii. 254
Marforio, ftatue of, ii. 207
S. Maria in ara coeli, ii. 151
 in campitelli, ii. 153
 in cofmedin, ii. 41
 maggiore, ii. 30 — 32
 1- fopra Minerva, ii. 153
 alia navicella, ii. 169
¦ del popolo, ii. 22

— in traftevere, ii. 175
— in vallicella, ii.. 29
in via lata, ii. 153

S. Mark's place at Venice, ii. 364., 421
S. Mark the Pope, ii. 172 .
Marriage of the fea, ii. 395
Mars, ftatues of, ii. 233, 235
Marfeilles, i. 178 — 183
Marfigli, Count, ii. 331, 335
Martigni, iii. 16;, 162
Martinel, Mr. iii. 129
Martinelli, John, i. 293
Martyn, Profeffor, iii. .272
S. Mary the gipfey, ii. 42
Mary,, queen of Scots, j. 88, 93 •
 of Medicis, i. '85
Mafcagni, Profeffor, i. 326. iii. 11 Mafquerade,

( i 34i )
Mafquerade, ii. 54
Mafs, ceremony of, ii. 272.
Mafter-piece of Corregio, iij. 34
•  ¦ Michael Angelo, ii. 39
 .  Raphael, i. 348. ii. 6
-;  A. Sacchi, ii. 159
 — Tintoret, ii. 391
¦ Titian, ii. 371
 P. Veronefe, i. 248
Mathematicians, iii. 251, 252
Matfys, Quintin, i. 52, 53
Maundy Thurfday, ii. 261
Maurice, port, i. 218
S. Maurice, town of, iii. 162
Maufoleums, i. 26, 35, 40, 53, 54,80—88, ()(), 137,
266, 270, 298—302, 35^p54- "'. 25, 28,
3°5 35>-39> 43> 7°, 80, 82, 152, 154, 162, 166,
174, 283, 370, 380, 389. iii. 4, 17, 108— 1 10,
i74> ^A7%, 185,244
Mazzola, Giufeppe, ii. 218
Meager dinners, ii, 275. iii. 98
Mechlin, i. 57
Medals, engraving of, iii. 117
Medicine, iii. 115, 147
Medicis family, ii. 34, 154
¦ ' their tombs, i. 303—306
"  — villa, ii. 232
Meillerie, iii. 167
Meleager, ftatues of, ii. 186, 190
Men in women's clothes, ii. 49, 55
Mengs, 11.-238
Mento, Mount, i. 176
Z 3 , Mer

( 342 )
Mer de glace, iii. 156
Mercier, Mr. iii. 205, 207
Mercury, temple of, ii. 99
Meridian lines, ii. 161,337
Metaphyfics, i. 309. ii. 140
Michael Angelo Buonarota, i. 244, 280, 285, 298*
306, 350. ii. 2, 16, 27, 39, 57, 154, 159, 161,
189, 201, 203, 226, 234, 335. iii. 46
—  r—.  da Caravaggio, i. 252. ii- 84, 213,
217, 227,228, 252, 348, 351
Micheli the botanift, i. 299, 315
Milan, iii. 41 — 62
Miller, Lady, i. 244, 331. ii. 34, 120, 223, 241, 264,
3/5— 3J7: «!'25, 33>34»273
Milton, iii. 108 .^^
Mint of Milan, MP60
Mirabilia Romse, iij. 250 — 257
Mifenum, cape of, ii. 97
Miferere, ii. 263, 266
Models, anatomical, i. 312
:  : — , architeftural, in pumice, ii. 408,
—  of the glaciers, iii. 154
Modefty, temple of, ii. 41
Moine, Le, i. 78
Mola di Gaeta, ii. 6q
Monaco, principality of, i. 206 — 211
Monks, i. 47, 309. ii. 85, 135, 140, 143, 300. iii. 27,
46
Monnier, Mr. Ie, i. 71
Mons, i. 60
Montaigne, iii. 274
Montanyert, iii. 156 — 159 Monte

( 343 )
Monte Cavallo, ii. 3, 229-^-231. iii. 252
Montelimar, i. 148
Montereau, i. 136
Montmorency, Conftable, i. 93
Montone, ii. 146
MontpeUier, i. 153 — 167
Moore, Dr. iii. 275
Moorifh prifoners at Genoa, iii. 82
More, Sir Thomas, i. 295
Mofaics, ii. 30, 34, 121, 152, 175, 194, 197,209,389
Mofchati, Dr. iii. 48
Mofes, ftatue of, ii. 39
Motte, Count de la, iii. 115
Mouchards, iii. 207
Murano, ii. 418 — 420
Murders at Genoa, i. 240
Mufe, fala delle, ii. 193
Mufeums of antiquities, i. 277—297. ii. 201, 207,
412. iii. 20, 1 16
Mufeum Capitolinum, ii. 202 — 211
— Pio-Ckmentinum, ii. 180 — 197
Mufic, ii. 22, 29, 78, 79, 129, 152,1153, 260, 263,
266,269,375,376,386. N,
Nancy, iii. 188
Nant du Trient, river, iii. 162
Nantes, edia of, i. 140
Naples, ii. 74 — 125
Narcifla, i. 159
Narciffus, antique, ii. 191
Narni, ii. 302 Z 4 Navona,

( 344 )
Navona, piazza, ii. 4—^6
Negri, ii. 391
Negrone villa, ii. 233
Nera, river, ii. 304
Neri, Saint Philip, ii. 29
Nero, fatire on, ii. 118
Newton, Roman editor of, ii, 59
Nice, i 202 — 264-
Nicholfon, Margaret, i. 74
Night- Thoughts, author of, i. 159
Nile, ftatue of the, ii. 191
Niobe, i. 286
¦  , her children, ii. 2^9
Nifmes, i. 151, 168 — 170
Noailles, Marechal de, i. 71, 73
Nobility, jji. 221 — 223
. ', Chinefe, ii. 173
— :  , Genoefe, i. 258
*—.  , Neapolitan, ii. 93
 ,- Spanifh, i. 43
Noble ladies, their privileges, ii. 41
Novalaife, la, iii. 126
Novella, la, i. 332
Novi, iii. 77
Nozze Aldobrandine, ii. 240
Nuovo, Monte, ii. 103
Nuncio of the Pope, ii. 396, 397
Nuns, i. 142. iii. 187, 194 — 198.
 , ceremony of making one, iii. 194
¦  , profeffion of one, ii. 386 — 388
¦  , how proteaed, iii. 195 ¦
Nymphgum, ii. 244.
2 Obelifks,

( 345 )
o.
Obelifks, ii. 4, 5, 36
Obfervatories, i. 133, 166, 265. iii. 45
Olanda, Luca di, ii. 351
Olivetani, iii. 59
Olympia, Donna, ii. 43, 241
Olympici of Vicenza, iii. 14
S. Onuphrius, his church, ii. 18
Operas, i. 257, 317— 319. ii. 55, 86, 421. iii. 60, 75,
227
Orcy, Mr. d', i. 134
Oreftes and Ekara, group of, ii. 237
Orford, Earl of, ii. 206
Organ at Haerlem, i. 21, 32
•  at Monte Caflino, ii. 139
Oriani, Abbe, iii. 42
Orizonte, ii. 222, 226
Orkans colkaion of piaures, ii. 27. iii. 193
Orphan of the caftk, fcenery defcribed therein, i. 185
S. Orfefe, near Genoa, iii. 87
Orfini palace, ii. 2J2
Otricoii, ii. 301
Otway, 11. 422
Overturn, ii. 133.

P.

Pacifico, Abbe, ii. 90
Padouo, iii. 3 — 12
Padou4nino, ii. 406, 409
Painted ftatues, ii. 148

Painters,

( 346 )
Painters, portraits of, i. 288
Paintings, antique, ii. 117, 121, 218, 240
 ; — , indecent, ii. 243
Palaces of Bologna, ii. 343—353 ' '
 Genoa, i. 246 — 255
¦ ¦ Rome, ii. 212 — 231
— —  Venice, ii. 402 — 410
Palavicjni chapel, ii. 1 74
Pakftrina, ii. 362
Palladio, ii. 380, 381, 385, 403. iii. 6,8, j.2— 14, 29
Pallone, game of, iii. 8^
Palm Sunday, ii. 259
Palma the elder, ii. 378,406
•  younger, ii. 350
Pamphili villa, ii. 64, 258
Pancin, Profeffor, i. 177
Pantheon, i. 340. ii. 35
Paolina fountain, ii. 6.
Papa Giulio, ii. 243 >
Papirius and his mother, ii. 235
Paris, i. 65 — 68,76 — 89, 117 — 134. iii. 189— 227
Parifian charaaer, iii. 202, 205 — 208
Parma, iii. 26 — 38
Parmentier, Mr. i. 127
Parmiggianino, ii. 87, 213, 217, 219, 337, 341, 348,
351. iii. 27, 28
Parodi, Domenico, iii. 87
Pavements, fine, ii, 28, 78, 161, 367, 372, 379
Pavia, iii. 62—76
Paul, Father, his manufcripts, ii, 412
S. Paul, ftatue of, ii. 233
r  the hermit, ii. 171 Paul

( z\t )
1 HI, Pope, i. 351
- V. ii. 31, 246
line chapel, ii. 261, 262, 265
'aulo fuori delle mure, ii, 177
filippo, grotto of, ii. 95
"ants, fantaftic, iii. 25
y gardens, i, 256
lam's tour, iii. 276
:hienati, Profeffor, iii. 115
umes hated by women, ij. 32
inne, i. 63
>u, place de, i. 156
ecution, its ufe, iii, 144
igino, ii. 172
ro, ii. 322
— Simone da, ii. 344, 352
:1, Profeffor, i. 17
is inguinaria, ii. 26
eter, famous piaure of, ii. 346
— in montorio, ii. 6
— in vaticano, i. 338, 344 — 356. ii. 201, 2585
264—273
— the Dominican, iii. 56
arch, i. 173, 175, iii. 7
ini, Father, iii. 97
etronilla, famous piaure of, ii. 229
etronio, ftatue of, ii. 337
p IV. of Spain, ii. 317, 318. iii. 52
ic, its intricacy, iii. 169
porta, ii. 284
;nza, iii. 38 — 40
za del pbpolo, ii. ?3 — 26 Piazza

(( 348 )
Piazza di Spagna, ii. 26
Piazzetta, ii. 406
Picus Mirandolae, i. 309
Pigak, i. 79. iii. 185
Pilaer and Beeckmans, i. 55
Pilgrims, i. 330. ii. 319
Pinciana, porta, ii. 246
Pino, villa of, iii. 86
Piombo, Sebaftiano de], i. 254
Piozzi, Mrs. ii. 367, 413. iii. 112,276
Pifa, i. 263—273
Pifani palace, ii. 406
 villa, iii. 3
Pifcina mirabile, ii. 97
Piffe-vache, cafcade of, iii. 162
Pius IV. Pope, ii. 284
— — V. ii. 31
 VI. ii. 179, 261, 267, 269—274, 323
Plurnier, i. 120
—  ,-his ferns, iii. 38
Pluto and Proferpine, ii. 238
Po, river, ii. 360. iii. 24, 40, 76
Poetry, Dutch, i. 39
Poggiboufi, i. 324
Poirino, iii. 105
Police of Milan, iii. 61
Pompeia, ii. 118 — 122
Pent S. Efprit, i. 149
 du Gard, i. 150, 171
Ponte centino, i. 332
 : rotto, ii. 41
Pontine marfhes, ii. 67 Pope,

'( 349 1
Pope, his private apartments, ii. 197
¦  , his journey to Vienna, ii. 179
Popes, portraits of, ibid.
Popolo, piazza del, ii. 23 — 26
•  , porta del, i. 339
Porta the phyfician, his tomb, ii. 80
» , William della, i. 351. ii. 19
Portici, ii, 112, 117, 122 *»
Portland vafe, ii. 209
Porto Venere, i. 262
Portraits of illuftrious men, i. 294
—  painters, i. 288
 popes, ii. 179
Pouflin, Gafpar, ii. 222, 224 — 226
¦  , Nicholas, ii. 215, 219, 222, 231
S. Praffede, church of, ii. 38
Pratolongo, Dr. iii. 86, 87
Pretender, the, i. 354. ii. 47 — 49
 :  , confort of the, i. 352. ii. 166
Prieftley, Dr. i. 101
Priefts, celibacy of, i. 139
Prince of Orange, the great, i. 40
—  , his murder, i. 42
Printing, fine, iii. 36 — 38
Prints, colkaions of, i. 246
Procaccino, i. 254
Proteftants oppreffed, i. 140, 155
.  at Turin, iii. 121 — 123
Pfalmody, iii. 146
Puget, i. 235, 244
Puzzuolo, ii. 96, 103—107, 118.

(jyeen

( 350 )
Queen of France, iii. 30, 217, 218
 Naples, ii. 128, 131
Queirolo, ii. 82
Quercia, Giacomo della, i. 329
Quillen, i. 53 * R.
Races, ii. 50, 323
Radicofani, i. 331
Raphael, i. 166, 279, 283, 288, 310, 348. ji. 6 — 17,
23—25, 152, 169, 212—215, 219,' 305, 315,
3*9> 336> 343> 349> 4°8- »'. 40, 180, 193
Rauwolf, i. 12
Razzi, i. 285
Reaumur, iii. 73, 74
Rebou1. a botanift, iii. 32
Religion, conyerfations on, i. 139. iii. 102
 , its true fpirit, ii. n, 22, 275. iii. 4
Rembrandt, i. 24, 37, 55, 249. ii. 408
S. Remo, i. 212 — 216
Refurreaion of Chrift, ii. 269
Revolution of France, iii. 192,205" — 222
... Genoa, i. 242
Reynier, Mr. iii. 170
Reynolds, Sir Jofhua, i. 288. ii. 91. iii. 247
Rhine, river, iii. 178
Rhone, river, i. 149, 173. iii, 146, 161
Rialto, ii. 422
Ricci, Father, ii. 279
Riccio, Andrew, iii. 6 Rice*

( 35i )
Rice-fields, iii. 41
Richard, Abbe, ii. 100, 287. iii. 277
S. Richard, king of England, ii. 85
Richlieu, Cardinal de, i. 80
— — — -, Marechal de, i. 236
Ricorfi, i. 331
Ridolfi, Abbe, ii. 414
Rimini, ii. 322
Rifon, ii. 252
Rituals, iii. 58
Rivinus's plates, iii. 69, 183
Robert, his drawings, i. 132
S. Rocco, ii. 177
Rochefoucauld, Due dela, i. 128
Roche Melun, iii. 138
Romanelli, ii. 216
Romano, Julio, i. 288. ii. 213, 215, 231, 344
Romans, their charaaer, ii. 274
Rome, i. 337—356. ii. 1—65, 149—299
S, Romualdo, ii. 159
6. Romulo, i. 216
Ronche mountain, iii. 135
Ronciglione, i. 336
Rofa, Profeffor, iii. 1 1
 , Salvator, i. 310. ii.26, 163,219, 222 — 224*227
Rofary, Virgin of the, ii. 325, 336
Rofi, monte, i. 337
Roffini, Dr. iii. g6
Roftral column, ii. 203
Rotterdam, i. 5
Rouge, i. 132, 155
Rouffeau, Jean Jacques, i. 97 — n6, 147. iii. 144
Royen, Profeffor Van, i. 10, 15 Rubens,

( 352 )
Rubens, i. 50—55, 59, 234, .246, . 249, '252— 254,
285, 287. ii. 204, 223, 227. iii. 180
Rubicon, ii. 323
Ruins of Rome, ii. 280—283
Ruiter, Admiral, i. 26
Running footmen, ii. 327
Ruyfch, i. 15. S.
Saechi, Andrea, ii. 36, 159, 172, 215, 2f6, 230
Sacchini, ii. 62
Sacrifly of St. Peter's, i. 354
Sage, M. le, i. 133'
Saint Real, Chevalier de, iii. 129, 137
Salara, porta, ii. 253
Saknche, iii. 153
Salimbeni', i. 269
Salt, French, i. 63
Salt-works, iii. 163 — 166
S. Salvatore, ii. 332
,Sampieri palace, ii. 344
Sandifort, Profeffor, i. 15
Sandys'. travels, ii. ioi.iii. 279
Sangrp family, ii. 81
SanMartino, fculpto'r, ii. 82
San Micheli, architea, iii. '20, 21
Sannazarius's tomb, ii. no
Sanfovino, ii. 316, 381, 412. iii. 8
Santa Croce, fculptor, ii. in
Sarcophagi of porphyry, ii. 35., 15^, 195
Sarto, Andrea del, i.268, 310. ii. 410. iij. i8d
Satyr and goat, ftatues of, ii. 1 23 Savignano,

( 353 )
Savignano, ii. 323
Sauli palace, i. 255
Savone, i. 226
Savoyards, charaaer of, iii. 141, 143
Saxe, Marechal, his tomb, iii. 1 85
Scaligeri, their tombs, iii. 17
Scarcellino, ii. 350
Scarpa, Profeffor, iii. 66 — 68,
Scenery, alpine, iii. 131 — 135
Schelde, river, i. 49
Scheveling, i. 34
Schidone, Bartolorfleo, ii. 87, 226
Schools of Venice, ii. 373, 390 — 392
Schurer, Profeffor, iii. 183
Science, its lafting relifh, ii. 60. iii. 149
Scirocco, ii. 321
Scopoli, Profeffor., iii. 63, 66, 72, 74
Sea, luminous appearance of, i. 211
S. Sebaftian, gate of, ii. 283
Secundus, Johannes, i. 14
Seguier, Mr. i. 168
Semenzi, Dr. i. 326
Senator of Rome, ii. 2
Senebier, Mr. iii. 148
Seneca, portraits of, ii. 250
Sens, i. 137
¦Serra palace, i. 255
Serravalk, ii. 306
Servos, iii. 154
Seftri di Levante, i. 26 1
£. Severino, convent of, ii. 78
S. Severo chapel, ii. 81
Vol. HI. A a Seyboi*,

( 354 )
Seybolt, his portrait, i. 288
Sezza, ii. 72
Sharp's Travels, iii. 264, 2S0
Siddons, Mrs. i. 244, 245. ii. 16, 200
Sienna, i. 324 — 329
Silk, fabrick of, iii. 77, up — 121
S. Silvefter, ii. 171. iii. 257
Sinigaglia, ii. 320
Sixtine chapel, ii. 56, 263 — 266, 268
Sixtus IV. Pope, i. 353
 V. ii. 30, 36, 234, 414
Skeleton, petrified, ii. 240
Slanbufch, Mr. ii. 92, p f
Slave, ftatue of, i. 281
Slave-trade, i. 143
Sion, Mr. iii. 151
Smollet, i. 153, 156, ii. 27. iii. 281
Soane, river, i. 139,
Socin, Dr. iii. 182
Solfatara, ii. 103, 235
Solimene, i. 236. ii. 81, 139
Soraae, Mount, ii, 300
Sovereigns peace-makers, iii. 47
Souza, Chevalier de, iii. 117, 123, 126, 129, 137.
Spagnuoletto, i. 250, 254.11. 83,215
Spallanzani, Abbe, iii. 73
Spaventi, George, ii. 376
Spies, ii. 364 iii. 207
Spitting-boxes, ii. 161
Spclete, ii. 304
Springs, tepid, i. 149, 177
Spriingly, Mr. iii 172 ¦ ¦ JoStadt-

( 355 )
[t-houfe of Amfterdam', i. 24
chadum' Infulse, i. 1 89
rcafe, holy, ii. 37
ues the foul of a garden ! iii. 245
tefano rotondo, ii. 169
10, his book defolido, &c. i. 317
m defcribed, iii. 139,
-res of S. Germano, ij. jo8
fburgh, iii. 183 — 186
>zzi chapel, ii. 159
irt family, i. 88. ii. 47
iendo, its meaning, ii. 359
jeas, the favourite ones of Italian painters, jii. 18
leyras, ii. 164, 222
rrbe, its meaning, ii. 359
erga, church of, iii. 107 — in
*ery, iii. 115
ufanna, ii. 157, 158
e, iii. 1,26
fs foldier, his impiety, ii. 270
tzerland, its beauties, iii. 1 66
il's cave, ii. 102
em, its ufe, iii. 150. T.
ul, lake of, iii. 157
aro palace, ii. 347
ning, materials for, ii. 72, 308
eftry, i. 60. ii. 5 1
b, his burial-place, ii. 18
tro Olympico, iii. 13 A a 2 Temple

( 356 ),
Temple of Solomon, ii. 280
 ofVefta, ii. 289
Terence, manufcript of, ii. 199
Termini, ii. 256
Terni, ii. 302
Terracina, ii. 67
Theatres, ii. 54 — 56, 86, 282. iii. 33, 60
S. Therefa, ftatue of, ii. 157
Thouin, Mr. i. 126
Thunberg, Profeflbr, i. 29
Tiarini, ii. 339
Tibaldi, Pelegrino, ".-351
Tiber, ftatue of, ii. 191
Tiberius, ii. 96
Ticino, river, iii. 63, 76
Tiene palace, iii. 13
Tiepolo, iii. 5
Tingry, Mr. iii. 148
Tintoret, ii. 252, 372, 373, 378, 382, 390—392,
403—405
Tiffot, Mr. iii. 168—170
Titian, i. 282. ii. 87, 205, 213, 216, 224 — 228, 242J
252> 345> 35°> 37 '> 375> 377> 384» 389> 4°3>
404, 406, 410. iii. 7, 18, 57
Titus, arch of, ii. 280
 -, baths of, ii. 282
Tivoli, ii. 284 — 292
Tokntino, ii. 308
Toleration, i. 26, 27. ii. 10, 22, 262, 274, 314.
iii. 163, 186, 210
Tongue of St. Anthony, iii. 5
Toothdrawing, royal, ii. 409 Toro

( 357 )
Farnefe, ii. 20
, Flaminio, ii. 352
fieri, i. 331
, antique, ii. 189
rie, iii. 77
n, i. 186
efort, i. 118
 , his death, iii. 201
r of S. Mark, ii. 422
rs, hanging, i. 271. ii. 328
ky, Mr. his colkaion, i. 279
tti, Dr. Targioni, i. 267, 315
n, column of, ii. 282
ubftantiation, ii. 8
, fountain of, ii. 4
town of, ii. 305
nium of S. Leo, ii. 36
;a de' monti, ii. 26, 277
— de' pekgrini, ii. 276
p, Admiral, i. 40
, how offenfive, i. 114, 301
> Lombardo, ii. 377
e, Baron de la, iii. 118
me, Vifc. de, i. 86
, iii. 106 — 125
dum, ii. 147.

u. v.

int, i. 118
mara, ii. 307
ice, i. 147
iciennes, i- 61

Valens,

( 358 )
Valens, Emperor, ii. 164 -
Valentin, ii. 230
Valiere, Ducheffe de la, i. 82
Valifneri, iii. 12
Valois family, their tombs, i. .83, 85 *
Vandyke, i. 24, 250, 251, 253, 254. ii. 91, 343, 344.
iii. 107, 190
Vanity, French and EngHftt, iii, 199
Vanlo, i. 79
V^nni, ii. 164
Vanvitelli, ii. 127, 320
Var, river, i. 202 , ;
Vafco, Abbe, iii. 126 
Vafes, antique, ii. 19*% 209,, 219
Vatican, ii. 10 v
 library, ii. 198 — 202
 — mufeum, ii. 180-57*197
Vauclufe, i. 173—176- ;
Vegni, Abbe de, ii. 59 ,
Vesae, ii. 309
Velafquez, Diego, i. 293. ii. 226
Veletri, ii. 66
Velino, river, ii. 302
Velleia, iii. 32
Venereal difeafe, its introduaion, ii. 26
Veneria reale at Turin, iii. 1 1 1
Venetians, their charaaer, ii. 364, 400. iii. 2
Venice, ii. 362 — 423
Venturini, Oaavio, i. 293
Venus cceleftis, i. 285
 aux belles fejfes, ii. 17, 89
 of Medicis, i. 276 — 279 . ,
.At Venus

t 359 y
Venus fleeping, ii. 192
—  , tem pie 'of, ir. 98
 of TJtrarr, i. 282
 viarix, i. 285
Venuti, Abbe, ii. 209. iii. 257
Verona, iii, 15—22
Veronefe, Paul, i. 248, 250, 254. ii. 204, 213, 2'69,
252, 35°> 372> 2f5, 376, 379. 382> 385. 3»9.
393> 4°3— 4°5> 4°7« »'• 6, 14, 17, 107,1:90-
S. Veronica, ii. 264
Verfailles, i. 69 — 71. iii. 189 — 191
—  , its water-works, i. 7b, 75, 345. ii. 363.
iii. 245
Vefuvius, Mount, ii. 61, 112-^116
Vefta, te-mpk of, ii/41
Vevai, iii. 167
Via Pia, ii, 67
Vjcentino, Andrea, i. 293
Vicenza, iii. 12—15
Viaor Amadeus, his tomb, iii. i'68
Vienne en Dauphine, i. 147
Vigna, la, ii. 301
Villa Adriana, ii. 194, 286
Villas of Rome, ii. 232 — 257
Ville-neuve, iii. 166
Villers, Mr. i. 144
Villettas of Genoa, iii. 81, 83
Vinci, Leonardo da, ii. 87, 92, 215, 242, 344. iii. 4-7^
57
Virgil, fuppofed buft <>f, ii. 2ti8
.  •, his Cicada, iii. 95
 , manufcript of, ii; 19'a Virgil,

C tfo )
Virgil, his tomb, ii. 109
Virgin, figures of the, i. 47, 223. ii. 321?
Virtues of plants from their form, ii. 80
Vitellius, buft of, i. 249
Viterbo, i. 335
Vittoria, Alexander, his tomb, ii. 380
Ulyffes, medal of, iji. 33
Univerfity of Padoua, iii. 8 — 12
 — Pavia, iii. 63 — 75
• Voghera, iii. 76
Voiturins, i. 145, 273, 323. iii. 143
Volta, Abbe, iii. 70
Voltaggio, iii. 78
Volterra, Daniel di, ii. 27. iii. 193
Voyage from Bologna to Venice, ii. 355 — 362
.  — •— — Boulogne to Dover, iii. 229 — 232
.  Harwich to Holland, i. 3
,  .  Venice to Padoua, iii. 1 — 3
Urban VIII. Pope, i. 350. ii. 216, 249, 32a
Vulturnus, river, ii. 129. W.
Walker's Travels, iii. 282
Walking in Paris, iii. 200
Walpole, Honourable Horace, ii. 2o6
Watch towers, i. 258
Werter, author of The Sorrows of, ii. 129
Wilkmet, Mr. iii. 188..
Winding-fheet made of Afbeftos, ii. 201
¦  Chrift's, iii. 107
Windows, French, ii. 92
Winkelmann, account of, ii/253. iii. 283 Winkelmann,

r 361 )
Winkelmann, remarks of, ii. 182 — 190, 209, 235-r-
237, 250, 255
Wolf with Romulus and Remus, ii. 202
Women in men's clothes, i. 318. ii. 49
Workfhop pf M°fa'cs> "• J97
Wouvermans, i. 55
Wreftlers, group of, i. 281
Wright of Derby, ii. 277
Wright's Travels, ii. 339. iii. 284
Wynperfe, Dr. V ander, i. 15
Wy«enbach, Mr- iii- 172. Y.
York, Cardinal of, ii. 290
Young, Mr. Arthur, i. 307. ii. 356. iij. 222, 285,
Z.
Zacchiroli, his defcription of the Florentine Gallery,
i. 276 — 295. iii. 248
Zambeccari palace, ii. 349
Zanchi, ii. 391
Zerbino at Genoa, i. 255
Zimmerman, Profeflbr, iii. 152
Zuccheri, ii. 213.

FINIS,

£ R R A T Ai
Vol. i. page 99, line 1 2, read et de la Verite.
16^,  2, for pldnorbis, read lufitdnka. -
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