YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

THE ROOF OF THE WORLD

Printed by R. &° R. Clark
FOR
EDMONSTON & DOUGLAS, EDINBURGH.
LONDON . . . HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.
CAMBRIDGE . . MACMILLAN AND CO.
GLASGOW . . . JAMES MACLEHOSE.

LOWER KUMDAN CLACl ER - S H YOK

THE

ROOF OF THE WORLD
BEING
THE NARRATIVE OF A
JOURNEY OVER THE HIGH PLATEAU OF TIBET
TO THE RUSSIAN FRONTIER AND THE
OXUS SOURCES ON PAMIR

BY

Lieutenant-Colonel T. E. GORDON, C.S.I.
HONORARY AIDE-DE-CAMP TO THE VICEROY OF INDIA
LATELY ATTACHED TO THE SPECIAL MISSION TO KASHGHAB,

ILLUSTRATED WITH SIXTY-SIX DRAWINGS DONE ON THE SPOT
AND MAP

EDINBURGH
EDMONSTON AND DOUGLAS
MDCCCLXXVI

PREFACE.

I have avoided in this narrative going into detail concerning
those countries which have already been fully described by
modern European travellers, and accordingly little is said about
the well-known route from Leh to Yarkand, and thence to
Kashghar. I offer my sketches so far, more to illustrate the
works and writings of Thompson, Shaw, Hayward, Henderson,
and Bellew, than my short account of it and its scenes. Where
we left the old trodden paths, as in the Tian Shan and Pamir
highlands, I have attempted a more minute account of what we
saw and heard in those new fields of exploration and research.
My book, however, makes no pretension to be in any way a
record of scientific exploration : it merely relates what fell
under " every-day " observation, with the addition of occasional
information gathered here and there as we travelled. The idea
of my writing it was suggested by my sketches forming such a
complete series "from the Indus to the Oxus " as to merit pub
lication simply on the ground of representing to a very great
extent life and scenery never before pictured. In considering
the form of descriptive text to accompany the sketches, I decided
on that of a narrative as better calculated to give interest to the
work. The whole of the Illustrations (with the exception of the
four coloured plates) are facsimile copies of my sketches made

vi PREFACE.
on the spot, beings reproductions under the litho-photographic
process, executed by Messrs. George Waterston and Son of
Hanover Street, Edinburgh. I trust that the authenticity of
these sketches, made from nature in localities most of which
are entirely new to us in illustration, will compensate in some
degree for occasional roughness and want of pictorial effect.
The four coloured plates are faithful copies of my original
water-colour drawings.
I desire to thank my travelling companions, Captains Bid-
dulph and Trotter, for kind assistance in the subject matter of
this book. Captain Biddulph, besides furnishing that which I
have acknowledged in the text, helped me in the account of
the form of Budhism now obtaining in Tibet, to which Captain
Molloy, British Joint Commissioner at Leh, also obligingly
contributed. The Map and all the notes of elevation above sea-
level are by Captain Trotter, and in my account of our journey
to Chadir Kul on the Tian Shan plateau I have borrowed from
his letter published in the proceedings of the Royal Geo
graphical Society of 15th June 1874.
Fergan, the latest Russian territorial acquisition in Central
Asia, extends the frontier of that Power down towards the
scene of our Pamir exploration ; and, influenced as the adjoining
small States must necessarily be by their strong neighbour, the
opportunity will doubtlessly soon be given for a complete ex
amination of the interesting regions near the head waters of the
Oxus which remain yet unexplored.

T. E. GORDON.

2 Eoyal Parade,
Cheltenham, 1st May 1876.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
Arrival at Leh, on the Indus — Preparations for the onward Journey — Hemis
Monastery — Masquerade and Burlesque by the Llamas — Budhist
Priesthood — Polo — Dancing Men and Women — Cordial Co-operation
of Kashmir Authorities — Departure from Leh — Baggage and Eiding
Yaks — European Governors of Ladak — Characteristics of the Tartars
— Shyok and Nubra Valleys — Pack-horses on Karakoram Journey —
Dras and Kurgil Ponies — Yaks and "Zos" — Potato Cultivation in
Shyok Valley ..... Pages 1-14

CHAPTEE II.
Susser Pass — Shyok Stream — Winter and Summer Eoutes' — Kumdan and
Eemu Glaciers — Mountain Hares — Tartar Porters — Mortality among
Traders' Pack-horses — Wolves and Eavens — Karakoram Pass — Suget
Pass — Karakash Valley — Yarkand Officials and Frontier — Captain
Biddulph's Party joins — Chang-Chemno and Khoten Eoutes — Pangong
Lake navigated — Load-carrying Sheep . . . 15-28

CHAPTEE III.
Halt at ShahiduUa — Yakub Khan, Kashghar Envoy — Special Couriers —
Annual Yarkand Caravans — Party proceeds to Sanju — Kirghiz and
Yaks — Sanju Pass — Bullock Carriage — Mirza Bahaudin — Abu-Bakr's
Fort — Kilian Kirghiz — Mission and Envoy reach Sanju — Kargalik-*-
Yarkand — Visit to the Governor: to the City — Dress and Appearance
of the People — Streets and Bazaars — Market Day — Hunting-Eagles
— Beggars — Population — Mission Quarters— Soldiers — Carts . 29-45

CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE IV.

Departure for Kashghar— Post Houses— Commandant of Yangi-Hissar Fort
—Guns carried by all Officials— Yangi-Hissar— Kashghar— Eeception
by the Atalik— City— Cotton Manufactures— Export Trade— Silk-
Wool — Chinese and Tunganis — Domestic Slaves— Skating — Mechanics
and Artisans ..... Pages 46-56

CHAPTEE V.
Departure for the Tian Shan — Artush Valley and Stream — Russian Merchants
— Toyan Valley and Stream — Forts of the Chakmak Defile — Caravan
Route — Old Volcano — Ovis Poli and Black Ibex — Eussian Kazaks
and Kara Kirghiz — Herds of Ponies — Manner of Hunting Ovis Poli —
Kirghiz Soldiers and Sportsmen — Chadir Kul Lake — Watershed —
Tian Shan Eange — Severe Cold — Captain Trotter's Work — Strict
Church Discipline — Excavated Eooms at Artush . . 57-67

CHAPTEE VI.
Captain Biddulph's Departure for Maralbashi — His Account of Journey and
Country — Forest — Wild Camels — Gazelle — Hawking Pheasants and
Hares — Maralbashi Town and Fort — Dolan People — Soldier's Story
¦ — Tigers — Trained Hunting-Eagles — Ancient City — Stages to Aksu
— Eeturn to Kashghar — Presents of Game — Ovis Poli — Black Ibex —
Gazelle — Frozen Drawing Studies — Maral — Wild Boar Hunting —
Mr. Forsyth's Visit to Artush — Dr. Stoliczka and Captain Trotter's
Explorations — Turkish Protectorate of Kashghar — Yangi Shahr 68-88

CHAPTEE VII.
The Army — Artillery — Jemadar Dadkhwah — Infantry — Taifurchis —
Chinese Corps at Drill — Army System — Kashgharis — Food Supply —
Transport — Annual Visit of Governors to the Capital — Khoten
Eevenue — Jade — China Tea Trade — Political System — Severity of
the Laws — Sheep and Cattle Stealing — The Amir's Personal Govern
ment — Mission leaves Kashghar — Arrives at Yangi Hissar — Yakub
the Polish Deserter . . . . .89-102

CONTENTS. ix

CHAPTEE VIII.
Departure for Sirikol — Chinese Fort — Kirghiz — Severe Winter Weather —
" Strike " of Kashghari Attendants — Kirghiz Yuzbashi — Kaskasu
Pass — Chihil Gumbaz — Torut Pass — Tangi Tar — Chichiklik Pass —
Eeach Sirikol Valley — Tashkurgan — Extent of Valley — Capture of
Sirikol — Deportation and Eeturn of Inhabitants — Origin of the
People — Old Tashkurgan — Cultivation — Animals, Domestic and Wild
— Climate — Source and Names of Eiver — Taghdungbash Pamir and
Kirghiz — Eoad to Kunjut — Slave's Story — Atalik's Fort — Tagharma
and Kizil Art Plains — Great and Little Karakul Lakes — Meaning of
"Sirikol" ..... Pages 103-120
CHAPTEE IX.
Eoof of the World — Previous Knowledge of Pamir Topography — Departure
for Wakhan — Neza Tash — Eich Grass — Aktash Valley- — Little
Pamir : its Lake and Stream — Watershed — Sarhadd Stream —
Extent of Little Pamir — Beach Sarhadd — Met by the " Mirzada " —
Ibex-Hounds — Eeach Kila Panja on the Oxus — Welcomed by the
Mir : visit him in his Fort — Present State of Peace and Security —
Tribute paid to Kabul — Population — Condition of the People — Ani
mals—Crops—Through Trade— State Debt paid off . 121-137
CHAPTER X.
Wakhan — Friendly Relations with Kunjut — People of Kunjut — Shighnan
friendly with Wakhan — My Messenger to Shighnan — Short Account
of Country — Murghab (Great Karakul) River — Ruby Mines — Shiah
gect — Kafir Forts — Mir Wali supposed Murderer of Mr. Hayward —
Yassin— Alif Beg of Sirikol— Slavery . . . 138-149
CHAPTER XI.
Severe Weather — Supplies — Snow on Great Pamir — Signs of Spring — De
parture for Great Pamir — Captain Biddulph goes to the Little Pamir
— Ali Murdan Shah's Signet Ring — Kirghiz of Great Pamir — Eoad
— Wood's Victoria Lake — Great Pamir Watershed — Deep Snow —
Pamir Paths — Captain Biddulph rejoins — Alichor and Siriz Pamirs —
Eang Kul — Tashkurgan on Siriz Pamir — Wild Animals — Gigantic

CONTENTS.
Pair of Ovis Poli Horns— Rarefaction of the Air— Local Name of
Lake Victoria — General Description of the Pamir Plateau — Meaning
of "Pamir" — Hot Springs — "Bolor" — Aktash — Short Supplies —
Difficult Defile— Return to Sirikol . . Pages 150-165
CHAPTER XII.
Return towards Yarkand — Sudden Change from Winter to Summer — Yarkand
— Crops — Summer Dress of People — Leave Yarkand for Leh — Kogiar
Route — Snow-Melting Floods — Yangi-Dawan Pass — Return of Winter
— Karakoram Pass — Death of Dr. Stoliczka — Letter and Presents
to Mir Futteh Ali Shah of Wakhan — His Death, and Succession of
Ali Murdan Shah ..... 166-172

LIST OF FULL PAGE ILLUSTEATIONS.

1. Lower Kumdan Glacier, on the bed op the Shyok
Steeam (ta face page 17) .... Frontispiece. TO FACE PAGE
2. Hemis Budhist Monastery, Ladak ... 2
3. End of the Upper Kumdan Glacier, on the Shyok
Stream ....... 18
4. The Eemu Glacier, Upper Shyok — looking N.W. — before
the snow-storm . . . . . .19
5. The .Eemu Glacier, Upper Shyok — looking W. — Outline of
the high range and peaks obscured by a snow-storm . 20
6. The Karakoram Peak, from the Southern side of the Pass of
that name — Elevation of the spot from which the view
taken, about 17,500 feet ..... 22
7. View from the Summit of the Karakoram Pass, looking
N.E.; elevation 18,550 feet. A rough stone pillar erected
in honour of the " Genii of the Mountain," similar to what is
seen on most Himmalayan passes, shows on the left of the
foreground . . . . . .23
8. Eiding Yaks, mounted for the ascent of the Sanju Pass . 32
9. Street Scene, Yarkand . . . . .42
10. Taifurchis of the Yarkand Governor's Guard, "Field
Practice " with the Taifu .... 44
11. View in the Toyan Valley, near Chung Terek, Tian
Shan — looking South . . . . .60

xii LIST OF FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. TO FACE PAGE
12. Panoramic View of the Chadir Kul Lake on the Tun
Shan Plateau, Eussian frontier; wild sheep in the foreground 65
13. The Trained Hunting Golden Eagle of Eastern Tur-
kistan ....... 78
14. Chinese Taifurchis, Kashghar Army . . •• 93
15. Eoad Scene, Kashghar . . . . .96
16. The Yangi Shahr, Kashghar, Fort Residence of the Amir,
from the roof of the Embassy Quarters — the Kizil Art
Mountains in the distance, and Kirghiz Felt Tent in the
court-yard of the " Elchi-Khana " in the foreground . . 99
17. The Muztagh (Tagharma Peak, 25,500 feet), from Tash
kurgan, Sirikol — looking North; part of the old Fort of
Varshidi on the left ; and Kirghiz, Akoi, and Yaks in the
foreground . . . . . .119
18. The Aktash Valley — looking North-West . . . 125
19. The Little Pamir— looking West from near Onkul, about 20
miles east of Gazkul (the Little Pamir Lake) ; wild sheep in
the foreground . . . . . .127
20. Kila Panja on the Oxus — looking East ; showing the Forts
and the approaches to the Great and Little Pamirs . . 131
21. Family Party, Inhabitants of Patur, Wakhan . . 135
22. Victoria Lake, Great Pamir — looking West . . 155
23. The Aktash Valley — looking South-East — showing the
Aktash rock from which the valley takes its name; ice
breaking up on the Aksu in the foreground . . 157
24. Large Ovis Poli Horns, from the Great Pamir . . 160
25. Map . . . . . . .172

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS IN TEXT.

Baggage Yak ....
Masquerading Monks, Lamas at Hemis
Polo Play in Tibet
Tibetan Ballet-dancers and Vocalists
Eiding Yak ....
Upper Part of Lower Kumdan Glacier
Karakoram Brangsa .
Load-carrying Sheep of Tibet
Kirghiz Youth ....
Kirghiz Young Woman
Kirghiz Old Woman (Grandmother) .
Yarkandi Officul
Yarkandi Woman, in Out-door Winter Dress
Yarkandi Woman „ „
A Woman of Sanju ....
Khul Muhammad, Commandant at Yangi Hissar
Bai Baba, a Khokandi Officer at Yangi Hissar
Kassim Akhun, alias Chawliang Khwaitang
Usher of the White Eod at Yangi Hissar .
Black Ibex of the Tian Shan Mountains
Kirghiz Soldiers and Ponies, Tun Shan
The Djeran (Gazelle) of Eastern Turkistan
Head of the Maral (Stag) of Eastern Turkistan

PAGE 1
589
12
18
2327 313435
37 38
4045 47
4853 5657
677185

xiv

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS IN TEXT.

Hunting Eagle seizing a Fox.
Jigit Soldier, Kashghar Army
Jigit Soldier, Kashghar Army
Kalmak Archer, Kashghar Army
Kalmak Archer, Kashghar Army
Kirghiz in Winter Dress
Sirikol Valley — looking South
Kirghiz Ak-oi (White House) .
Little Pamir Lake, Eastern End
Little Pamir Lake, Western End
Sirikoli Attendant of Alif Beg's
Kafir Fort near Hissar- Wakhan
Wakhi Falconer with Young Hawk
Yol Mazar (Eoadside Shrine) on the Great
of the Oxus
Great Pamir (Victoru) Lake — Eastern End
Double-humped Camel of Eastern Turkistan
Double-humped Camel of Eastern Turkistan
Ladies' Summer Fashions, Yarkand .
Laden Yaks on the March

Pamir

Branch

PAGE 88 909194 95
104 110120 121
127 137
138 149 150155165 166168
172

CHAPTEE I.
ARRIVAL AT LEH, ON THE INDUS— PREPARATIONS FOR THE ONWARD JOURNET— HEMIS
MONASTERY— MASQUERADE AND BURLESQUE BT THE LAMAS— BUDHIST PRIEST
HOOD— POLO— DANCING MEN AND WOMEN— CORDIAL CO-OPERATION OP KASHMIR
AUTHORITIES— DEPARTURE FROM LEH— BAGGAGE AND RIDING TAKS— EUROPEAN
GOVERNORS OP LADAK— CHARACTERISTICS OF THE TARTARS— SHTOK AND
NUBRA VALLETS— PACK-HORSES ON KARAKORAM JOURNEY— DRAS AND KURGIL
PONIES- YAKS AND "ZOS"— POTATO CULTIVATION IN SHYOK VALLEY.
The .return Mission from the
Viceroy of India to the Amir of
Kashghar, reached Leh, on the
Indus, the capital of Western
Tibet, on the 20th of Septem
ber 1873. An advanced party,
under the leadership of Captain
baggage yak. Biddulph, had previously passed
on, taking the eastern route by the Pangong Lake, and over the
Lingzi Thang plains, with instructions to join the Mission head
quarters at ShahiduUa, on the frontier of Yarkand.
The final arrangements for the long journey to the almost
unknown land of Eastern Turkistan were made at Leh. Here
the camp-followers were again inspected, and the horses, ponies,
and travelling equipments finally examined as to fitness for
continued severe work and exposure. The departure of the
Mission had been unavoidably delayed considerably beyond the
favourable time originally fixed, and provision had to be made
for meeting the greater cold of the later season. Full-length
B

2 TEAVELS IN TURKISTAN.
sheep-skin coats, with felt stockings and coverlets, were issued
to every man, to supplement the liberal supply of warm
clothing previously given, and extra felt-lined blankets were
also prepared for the riding and baggage-train animals. The
result proved the sound economy of these careful precautions,
the Mission reaching Yarkand with its establishment and
baggage-train in perfect working order. Great extremes of heat
and cold were felt during the journey, the thermometer in
the course of three months ranging from over 100° in tents at
Eawal Pindi, in the Punjab, where the camp was formed in
July, to 25° below zero, as experienced by Captain Biddulph's
party in October, shortly before reaching ShahiduUa.
Captain Trotter and Dr. Stoliczka accompanied Captain
Biddulph in advance; while Dr. Bellew, C.S.I., Captain Chapman,
and myself, proceeded with the Envoy, Mr. (now Sir) Douglas
Forsyth, C.B.*
Eight days were occupied at Leh in making the necessary
further preparations for the journey across the Karakoram.
Advantage was taken of the halt to visit the Budhist Monas
tery of Hemis, which enjoys a high reputation in Ladak for its
wealth and sanctity. Hemis is twenty-five miles from Leh, on
the south bank of the Indus. This monastery was first built in
1635 by Takchan Ealpha, a Lama, brother of the Ladak Baja
Singa Namgyel, and was enlarged by Galtais Lama in 1793.
During the first invasion and conquest of Ladak by Zorawur
Sing in 1834-35, the monasteries escaped plunder. After the
destruction of Zorawur Sing's army by the Chinese, in 1841,
* Two very able native officers, Resaidor Muhammad Afzul Khan of the
11th Bengal Cavalry, and Inspector Muhammad Ibrahim Khan ofthe Punjab
Police, were also attached to the Mission.

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TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN. 3
the Ladakis for a short time entertained the hope of entirely
shaking off the Dogra yoke. This hope was quickly extin
guished by the advance into Ladak of a fresh army under
Dewan Hurrl Chund and Wuzir Lakpat Eai, on which occa
sion the monasteries were less fortunate. Hemis alone escaped
being plundered, in consequence of the Head Lama tendering
early submission to Hurri Chund, and promising to feed the
whole Dogra army for six months. The agreement was faith
fully carried out ; and, though the other monasteries have never
recovered the losses they then experienced, Hemis has been able
to retain some of its ancient glories and reputation.
The form of Budhism now obtaining in Tibet has altered
somewhat since its first introduction, and differs considerably
from what may be regarded as the purer form practised in
Ceylon and Burma. Budhism was first introduced into Tibet
in the third century B.C., by Sakya Thubba, who inculcated
merely a mystical belief in the Supreme Budha. Lamaism,
with its monasteries and prayer-wheels, was founded later by
Urgyan Padma, a successor of Sakya Thubba, when considerable
changes were made in the importance attached to forms and
ceremonies, and the superior sanctity of Lamas. Later on, a
reformer known as Tson Khappa appeared, who founded the
sect of Gelukpa " the virtuous," and strove to bring back Bud
hism to its purer and simpler form. In course of time it was
found that the precepts enjoined were too rigorous for frail
humanity, and the sect of Kahguitpa, " believers in the succes
sion of precepts," was founded. These now form the two
sects into which Lamas are divided, but have many minor sub
divisions that take their names from some celebrated monastery,
retaining the distinctions of dress and tenets of the great sects

4 TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.
from which they spring. Both sects wear a red dress, but the
Gelukpas are distinguished by a yellow cap, and follow the
tenets laid down in the book " Do," " the Aphorisms," which is
amplified and assisted by thirty-three minor volumes. They
are more puritanical in their religious observances than the
Kahguitpas, and strictly abstain from meat, spirituous liquors,
and marriage. The Dalai Lama of Lhassa belongs to the
Gelukpa sect, which owns the Gahldang, Despung, Sera, and
Tashi-Lhunpo subdivisions. The Kahguitpas wear a red cap,
and practise the tenets laid down in the book Gnall or Gyuit,
which is amplified in twenty minor volumes. They do not
observe such strict abstinence as the Gelukpas, and, though the
practice is not common, are allowed to marry. A married
monk is obliged, however, to leave the monastery, and cease
exercising his functions as a priest. The Lamas of Hemis
belong to the sect of Kahguitpa, which owns the Dukpa, Sekya,
Birgonpa, Taklung, and Sarboo subdivisions.
The resemblance between these religious subdivisions and
the many monastic orders of the Roman Catholic Church is
curious. It is not to be wondered at that the first Jesuit
missionaries who visited Tibet, studied its system of monas
teries, clerical celibacy, worship of a Trinity, and acknowledgment
of a spiritual head on earth, and watched the religious services ac
companied by incense-burning, music, and chanting, should have
imagined that they had at last found the home of Antichrist.
Lhassa, the Borne of Budhism, is still regarded with vene
ration, and a great annual fair, called Shishu, is held at Hemis
on the same day that similar ones are held at the Dachan-
chunga and Sungasooling monasteries in Lhassa, which belong
to the same order.

TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.

Hemis is chiefly known to modern travellers on account of
a masque performed by the monks for a small gratuity. The
dresses, which are extremely grotesque, as a glance at the accom
panying sketch will show, are all brought from Lhassa. The
origin of the pantomime is unknown, but it is doubtless of great
antiquity, possibly dating from times before the introduction of
Budhism, to which it has no apparent affinity. I am not
aware of any similar ceremony mentioned by travellers in
countries where Budhism prevails. Through the kindness of
Mr. Johnson, the "Wuzir of Ladak, we were treated to a full-dress

MASQUERADING MONKS.

performance, at which the Lamas of three neighbouring monas
teries assisted. The play seemed to be a pantomimic burlesque
of the pomp and pleasures of a royal court. First came a band
of courtiers sweeping the way for the approach of the King, then
a party of musicians with children's rattles, followed by a
masquerade of devils, blue, red, and white, monsters, fairies,
fools and philosophers, all dancing to the loud-sounding pipe,
drum, and cymbal, before the King, who came and reposed
under a great canopy, looking silly and contemptuous. Our

6 TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.
breakfast, sent on ahead, had gone astray ; but the Lamas, on
hearing of it, provided us with a capital repast of fowls, bread,
and eggs, with tea served in coarse china.
The following account of polo played at Leh, and of the
Tartar ballet, is by Captain Biddulph : —
" The game of Polo, which promises to become nationalised
in England,, has been played in Ladak for centuries. Every
village of any pretensions has its polo (pronounced Pooloo)
ground attached, consisting of a smooth space of greensward or
shingle, from 200 to 300 yards long and 80 yards broad. Low
parallel walls about eight or ten inches high mark the sides of
the ground, the ends being left open. Cunningham, writing of
Ladak more than twenty years ago, gives the following excellent
description of the game : —
" ' The favourite amusement of the Botis, both of Ladak and
of Balti, is polo, in which all parties from the highest to the
lowest can take a part. I saw the game played at Mulbil, in a
field 400 yards long and 80 yards broad, which was walled
round for the purpose with a stone dyke. There were twenty
players on each side, all mounted on ponies and armed with
sticks about four feet long, and bent at the lower end. One
player took the ball and advanced alone into the middle of the
field, where he threw up the ball, and as it fell, struck it towards
one of the goals. The goals were formed of two upright stones
placed about twenty-five or thirty feet apart. When the ball
was driven through a goal, one of the successful party was
obliged to dismount and 'pick it up ; for if the opposite party
should have driven it back before it was picked up, the goal did
not count. The game consisted in winning a certain number of
goals, .either five, seven, or nine. Numerous musicians were in

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 7
attendance, who made a most lively din whenever a goal was won,
and the noise was increased by the cheers of the successful party.
" ' The game is a very spirited one, and well calculated for
the display of bold and active horsemanship. Accidental blows
occur frequently, but the poor ponies are the principal sufferers.
The game was once common in India under the name of
Chaogan, but it is now completely forgotten. The old Chaogan-
grounds still exist in every large town in the Punjab hills — in
Bilaspur, Nadaon, Shujanpur, Kangra, Haripur, and Chamba,
where the goal-stones are still standing. The game is re
peatedly mentioned by Baber, but after his time it gradually
became obsolete. It was introduced by the Mussulman con
querors, and the very first king, Kutb-ud-din Aibak, was killed
by a fall from his horse when playing at Chaogan in a.d. 1210.
The Pathan kings of India still continued to join in the game
down to the time of Sikander Lodi in a.d. 1498, when* one day,
while the king and his court were playing at Chaogan, the bat
of Haibat Khan Shirwani by accident came in contact with the
head of Suliman, the son of Darya Khan Lodi, who received a
severe blow. This was resented on the spot by Khizir Khan,
the brother of Suliman, who, galloping up to Haibat Khan,
struck him violently over the skull. In a few minutes both
sides joined in the quarrel, and the field was in uproar and
confusion. Mahmud Khan Lodi and Khan Khanan Lodi inter
posing, endeavoured to pacify Haibat Khan, and succeeded in
persuading him to go home quietly with them. The King,
apprehensive of a conspiracy, retired immediately to the palace ;
but nothing more transpiring, he made another party at the
same game a few days after.'
? Brisgs's Ferishta.

TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.

" The main street of Leh is an old polo-ground, round which
houses have been built, and many a good game is still played
there. During our halt at Leh, preparing ourselves to face the
Karakoram, some of our party wishing for a game, the Wuzfr,
Mr. Johnson, sent the requisite notice to the villages round.
" The next afternoon, at the appointed time, players, leading
their shaggy little ponies, appeared from Sabu, Chushot,
and other places; some having come ten or twelve miles
for a game, and riding home the same evening. The street
had been carefully swept and watered, and none but the
players were allowed in it, except the town band, which was
placed on one side half-way between the two goals. The flat
roofs of the houses lining the ground were covered with
lookers-on, who watched the game with unflagging interest.

POLO PLAY IN TIBET.

" Sides were chosen by all the polo sticks being thrown on
the ground and divided into pairs. The two choosers of sides
then took a stick from each pair; sticks were reclaimed by
their owners, and the game began. Pipe and drum struck up
a monotonous tune, which warmed up for a few discordant
moments each time a goal was taken. The players formed a
picturesque group with their streaming pig-tails, urging on

TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.

their rough little ponies with the short Tartar whip, spurs
being unknown. The pace was good, and there was plenty of
hard hitting. The back-handed hitting on the near side was
especially good, and the length of reach greater than is usually
seen among English players. From the narrowness of a Tartar
polo-ground, goals are frequent, but the interest of the game
does not appear to be diminished in consequence. The picking
up of the ball after a goal is hit is a curious feature : if before
this can be done one of the other side can hit the ball out
again between the markers, which here were eighteen feet apart,
the game goes on, and no goal is reckoned. After nearly two
hours' play, everybody had had enough, and the proceedings
terminated by a dance in the street. The performers were pro
fessional dancers, men and women. The latter were very robust

TIBETAN BALLET-DANCERS.

damsels, dressed in gay colours, with a red and green cloak
hanging from their shoulders ; the men were not dressed in any
distinctive costume, with the exception of a flat overhanging
cap and very long sleeves to their coats. The dance itself was
very monotonous, the performers following one another in a
circle with a slow short step and very grave faces. They would
c

10 TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.
not, perhaps, have been thought remarkable for grace or beauty
at Her Majesty's Theatre, but at Leh it was looked on as a
wonderful display of elegance."
When travelling up the valley of the Indus, a great gather
ing of Tartars took place on the 12th of September to play polo
before us, and the same band of dancers described by Captain
Biddulph performed for our amusement at Leh. I was thus
enabled to make the accompanying sketches, illustrative of
both, from the life.
The most liberal arrangements were made by the Maharajah
of Kashmir for the provisioning and transport of the Mission to
his frontier across the Karakoram, where we were to be met
by the Kashghar authorities. Food for men and animals, with
a sufficient supply of firewood, was placed under a guard at
every stage in the mountain wilderness beyond Changlung (the
green pasture), in Nubra, the last inhabited spot on the Kara
koram route. Mr. Johnson, the Governor of Ladak, carried
out the Maharajah's orders in the most complete manner, so that
in the icy desert of High Tartary we travelled with a degree of
comfort almost equal to what we had in the Lower Himma-
layas. But while the head-quarter party thus fared well, that
in advance, travelling by the easterly or Chang-Chemno route,
had to face difficulties and hardships, which, however, were met
cheerfully and overcome successfully. They proceeded for a
short distance together, and then separated to follow different
tracks, and thus examine thoroughly the country to the east of
the Karakoram pass. They met with greater cold, and crossed
loftier heights than we did, and they experienced many dis
comforts to which we were strangers.
We left Leh on the 29th of September. Snow had com-

TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN. 11
menced to fall on the surrounding hills, and the first day we
had the thermometer at 15° by 9 p.m. We started with
entirely yak transport, and kept it till the long and difficult
Susser pass was left behind. The Khardung pass (17,229 feet),
crossed the following day, took us to the valley of the Shyok,
down which we travelled for two days, and then turned up the
Nubra stream, making three marches to Changlung. Two
hundred and fifty baggage ponies were here provided, to be taken
into use after crossing the Susser. Heavy snow was now falling
daily on the heights, and a severe journey was expected ; but,
fortunately for us, the snow ceased the day before we ascended
from Changlung ; and, so far from suffering, we benefited by
what had fallen, as it filled up the spaces between the boulders
and rocks, and in many places almost smoothed our path. A
number of laden yaks had passed ahead and trodden down the
new fall before we arrived. The yak is admirably fitted for
this work, the shortness of its legs keeping it from sinking to
any great depth, and instinct teaching it to avoid soft drifts
where footing is difficult to find.
We used yaks for riding purposes on three occasions only :
when crossing the Khardung and Sanju passes, and ascending
the first rise from the Nubra valley towards the Susser.
Recourse was had to yaks then, chiefly on account of the deep
snow at the two first-mentioned places, and to spare our horses
at the third, where the ascent is unusually long and steep.
But horses can be ridden up all, as was done by many of our
people. Throughout the whole of the journey to Russian
Turkistan beyond Kashghar, and over the Pamir to the Oxus, I
always found the paths perfectly practicable f<?r a horse or pony.
Ladak has had the advantage, unusual in a native state, of

12

TRAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

being for several years past under a European governor. Mr.
Drew was Wuzir there for a considerable time, and on his
departure, Mr. Johnson, the first successful traveller of modern
times in Eastern Turkistan, was appointed to the charge. The
Tartars there appreciated so thoroughly the rule of an English-
Lman, that when left under a
flS* native governor for a short
fc time after Mr. Drew's de
parture, a number of them
are said to have gone to
Srinuggur to complain in
person to the Maharajah.
71 ' Jp^fj^U^The Tartars throughout
Ladak are under "Kar-
V j 1 ,_- jgi i JB ""~l____Cfi °~ • >
i "**-+*, C3a££&&>' dars " (Headmen) of their
RIDING YAK. Qwn ^^ ^J^ ^
Maharajah appoints. Foreigners (Hindus and others) were
tried in this capacity, but the people would not accept
them. They are said to suffer to any extent under a
Tartar Kardar without complaining, but in no way can be
made contented under a stranger so placed over them. The
explanation probably is that they are as a rule well treated by
the one, and not by the other. They are peaceful, patient, and
hardy ; and if to their quality of extraordinary power of endur
ance were added that of courage, they would be invaluable as
soldiers in those regions. But the Tartars of Ladak are more
inclined to arms than their neighbours, and the Maharajah of
Kashmir has made a beginning towards utilising them in a
military capacity. There is now a Ladaki corps, numbering
over 100 men, stationed at Leh, and employed in the surround-

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 13
ing district. The men are obtained by conscription, and are
tolerably well paid. They are said to take quickly to the use
of arms, and to give promise of being faithful and brave under a
leader whom they believe in. This corps furnished the men
who protected the supplies laid out for our Mission on the
uninhabited part of the Karakoram road between Leh and
the Yarkand frontier.
The Shyok and Nubra valleys show signs of increasing
prosperity, the result, I believe, of the fostering care bestowed
upon Ladak by Messrs. Drew and Johnson, at the instance of
His Highness Rumbhir Sing, the present Maharajah of Kashmir,
whose state expenditure in that province considerably exceeds the
income. The inhabitants of these valleys benefit considerably by
the Yarkand trade, in selling flour, grain, and forage for the
" kafilas " of pack horses passing and repassing. All the jungle
and grass lands near the villages are carefully enclosed with
strong thorn fences for grazing purposes, a charge being made
for the horses when turned in. Lucerne grass is extensively
grown, and similarly enclosed for grazing. The traders feed
their horses well before entering upon the severe portion of
the Karakoram journey, which extends for eleven stages from
the Nubra valley to the Karakash river near ShahiduUa, over a
wild, desolate, and elevated country destitute of grass. While
passing over this distance, a few pounds of barley only form
the daily food of the trader's pack horse, which generally carries
a load of 240 lbs., inclusive of the saddle. Grass is neither
good nor plentiful at ShahiduUa, and forage, such as a horse
requires after the Karakoram journey, is not obtainable till
Sanju, six stages farther on, with the difficult pass of that name
intervening, is reached. Accordingly the fodder and supplies

14 TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.
of the Nubra and Shyok valleys are in great demand- in the
" kafila " coming and going seasons, to prepare for and recover
from the effects of this killing work. The stages there are
very short, and the traders move leisurely along, halting and
marching according to the condition of their horses. The 250
ponies which I have mentioned as joining our camp to relieve
the baggage yaks, were sent on to these pastures to pick up
their last grass before commencing the toilsome journey beyond.
These ponies were strong hardy animals from Dras and Kurgil,
districts lying between Ladak and Kashmir. Ponies are exten
sively bred at these places, and the Kashmir state can always
depend upon obtaining a great number there, when transport
on a large scale is wanted. Ladak can similarly furnish very
many yaks, but they are of no use lower than Leh, being only
capable of work at high altitudes. The yak is a slow beast of
burden, becoming footsore if driven fast or far. It is invalu
able when time is no object, carrying as it does a very heavy
load, and finding its own food in the most unlikely and impos
sible looking places. The " zo," which appears to be the link
between the cow and the yak, is found below Leh, and is much
used for carriage purposes. In connection with the Shyok
and Nubra valleys it may be interesting to know that Mr.
Johnson, has introduced the potato there, and with success, as
proved by an excellent crop grown in 1873 at the village of
Deskit, near the junction of the Shyok and Nubra streams.
It is considered probable that the Tartars will now carry on
the cultivation.

CHAPTER II.
SUSSER PASS— SHYOK STREAM-WINTER AND SUMMER ROUTES— KUMDAN AND REMU
GLACIERS— MOUNTAIN HARES— TARTAR PORTERS-MORTALITY AMONG. TRADERS'
PACK-HORSES— WOLVES AND RAVENS— KARAKORAM PASS— SUGET PASS— KARAKASH
VALLEY— YARKAND OFFICIALS AND FRONTIER — CAPTAIN BIDDULPH'S PARTY
JOINS— CHANG-CHEMNO, AND KHOTEN ROUTES— PANGONG LAKE NAVIGATED—
LOAD-CARRYING SHEEP.
The cold steadily increased as we progressed. We left the
Nubra valley on the 6th of October, and encamped that night
at the foot of the Susser pass, the most difficult in the whole
journey. The thermometer marked 11°. The pass was crossed
the following day without any mishap, notwithstanding the
great extent of snow and ice, which, especially at the last part
of the ascent, caused much scrambling and struggling among
men and horses. The state of the numerous huge glaciers
clinging to the sides of the overhanging mountains, and
presenting the appearance of being merely temporarily checked
in their downward course, points to the probability of this pass
being choked up at no very distant date, and obstructed for traffic,
similarly as that which leads from near the head of the Kufe-
lung source of the Yarkand river into the Nubra valley is said
to have been. This latter was in ancient times on the main
route by which the hosts of mounted invaders crossed into
Little Tibet, but now it is only passable by men on foot. At
present, the only travellers by it, are the hardy inhabitants of

16 TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.
Baltistan, to whom it makes a great saving of time and distance
when communicating with their brethren who have settled in
Yarkand. A colony of Baltis has long existed at Yarkand,
chiefly engaged in agriculture, and a journey to and fro is
made every year. The thermometer marked 18° at 3 p.m. on
the summit of the Susser pass (17,800 feet), and it sank during
the night to 6° below zero.
On descending the pass we again came upon the Shyok,
which we had crossed and left a few days before. The Shyok
is the principal mountain tributary of the Indus, and rises in
the Karakoram mountains to the south-east of that pass. It
flows south-east to as far south as Leh, when it turns abruptly
to the north-west, and continues in that direction till the Indus
is reached at Keris. Its upper course is rushing and turbulent
down a narrow glen, but its middle course is either broad or rapid,
or divided into numerous branches ; in the lower part it is
generally a furious rapid, confined between precipitous cliffs.
In the depth of winter, when completely frozen, the stream is
followed for a great part of the Karakoram journey, thus
avoiding the troublesome Susser pass, and the long road over
the high Dipsang plain, both of which come in the summer
route. The precipitous nature of its banks and the adjoining
mountains prevent any passage along it when the ice breaks
up. Mr. Johnson arranged to return by the river route on his
way back after parting with us at the frontier, to examine the
locality, with the view of bringing engineering skill to bear on
its difficulties ; but I believe that the necessary operations to
open a road were found to be too extensive to be undertaken
at present. Considering the extraordinary and extreme diffi
culties of climate and want of grass always to be met with in

TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN 17
this direction, it would, I think, be far more profitable for our
commerce to seek out a new trade route "to Eastern Turkistan
by which the severe and barren elevated wastes of the Kara
koram may be avoided.
Winter having set in severely when we reached the Shyok
again on the 9th of October, the partially frozen and low state
of the stream admitted of our passing up it towards its source.
The supplies, however, having been laid out on the summer
route over the Dipsang plain, . in anticipation of our earlier
journey as expected, the main portion of the camp was sent
that way, while we proceeded by the winter path. We took a
few yaks to carry the supplies, and the rest were sent back, the
ponies furnished in Nubra being taken into use. We passed
the lower Kumdan glacier the first day. It comes from the
high peaks to the north-west, and continues down the right
bank of the stream for over two miles, forming a perfect wall
of ice rising from the water about 120 feet, and showing a
surface covered with countless pinnacles and points. Portions
of it yet stand at several places on the opposite bank, where the
original mass was forced against the great* up-rising red cliffs,
and blocked up the stream, thus forming a lake, which at last
burst this ice barrier by the increasing pressure of its collected
waters. We encamped that night at Kumdan under a high cliff
on the deep shingly bed of the old lake formed in the
manner just described. I remained behind the party sketching
the various remarkable parts of the glacier, and often in
making my way through the stream got into the line of
baggage yaks, which, moving in their usual leisurely manner,
appeared to me to run the chance of being caught in the
D

18

TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.

forming ice. The cold was excessive, as shown by the mass of
icicles on the long-haired yaks and rough-coated ponies when

UPPER PART OF LOWER KUMDAN GLACIER.

they emerged from the stream. The doubtful nature of the
narrow fords, and the painful prospect of a possible accidental
dip in the stream in such a low state of temperature, checked
all attempt to hasten forward by leaving the line of cautious
deliberative yaks. The great peaks from which the lower
Kumdan glacier springs, had their " snow banners " in full dis
play as we passed up, these being the continuous light clouds of
powdery snow blown off the surface, similar to what is seen in
the Alps.
On the 10th we continued in the same general northerly
direction, and passed the upper Kumdan glacier, which shoots
down from a lateral valley to the north-west, and almost
touches the opposite side of the main valley. It probably, at
one time, formed the barrier for a long and extensive shallow
lake above. We encamped that night at Gipshun, in a ravine
close to the broad pebbly bed of the Shyok. A little scattered

s:
o>

o

<
Q_53X<x.LU
CLCL n
LU X
I—u_o

THE REMU GLACIER— UPPER-SHYOK, LOOKING W.

TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN. 19
and scanty grass appears in the soft hollows about here, mak
ing the neighbourhood, as we were told, an occasional haunt of
the huge wild yak, and the graceful Tibetan antelope. I
went up towards the great Remu glacier to the north-west, in
quest of wild yaks, the fresh marks of which I had noticed ; but
I saw no game except a couple of mountain hares, which are
found in small numbers all over this wild country. On the
return journey the following year, the two ibex-hounds we brought
from Wakhan coursed them to no purpose, on the Karakoram, at
an elevation of over 1 7,000 feet. There the hares had by far the
advantage of the dogs, which soon came to a stand-still, pant
ing and breathless from the extreme rarefaction of the air.
The hares, on the contrary, held on their way without any
apparent inconvenience. I found the Remu glacier too distant
to allow of reaching and returning before nightfall, so I had to
make my way back to camp, from a point about two miles short
of it. The thermometer marked 2° below zero that night, and
the danger of being benighted in such a climate was too great
a risk to run.
The following day we passed up the Daolat-Beg-uldi stream
bed to the east of north, and as we crossed the great gravelly
flat at its junction with the Shyok, we had a very fine view of
the north-western portion of the Remu glacier, which showed
right down in the main valley, with an even surface, wonder
fully sea-like. After proceeding farther, and looking back, a
truly magnificent sight appeared — a great glacier from the
valley to the west, joined by several from its lateral ravines,
and uniting in the plain below with that from the north-west
to form one extended sea of ice. Above them rose stupendous
peaks, whose outline was lost in the snow-storm clouds which

20 TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.
hung about them. As far as the personal observation of European
travellers has noted, this great Remu glacier stands unrivalled
in its grandeur of extent and close resemblance to a frozen sea.
The glaciers of the Western Himmalayas are twice as exten
sive as those of the Alps, and are probably the largest in the
world, or, at all events, larger than any others out of the Polar
regions. One in the Muztagh range is believed to be 34
miles long, with fifteen distinct moraines ; while in its
immediate vicinity is another 31 miles in length, which
may be said to join with it in making 65 miles of con
tinuous ice. The Remu glacier, shown in the accompanying
sketches, rises amongst peaks and ridges from 19,00.0 to 24,000
feet high. It is about 21 miles in length, and from 1 to If mile
broad, terminating at an elevation of 15,800 feet above the sea
with a width of about 3 miles of gigantic cliffs of ice fully 250
feet high. This glacier, owing to the action of the river Shyok,
comes to an end at a much greater altitude than glaciers in that
part of the Himmalayan system generally do. The river, cut
ting away successive blocks of ice, usually prevents farther
extension. The glacier, however, has been known on several
occasions to protrude right across the valley of the Shyok, so as to
dam up the stream and form a large lake, ending in a cataclysm
when the water finally bursts through the ice and rushes down
the valley in a mighty and destructive flood wave, similarly as
has been observed of the Kumdan glaciers lower down.
The whole country around is singularly desolate-looking.
It was believed for some time that the disastrous inundation
of the Indus in 1841 was caused by the damming up ofthe
Shyok by these glaciers; but the later opinion of some well
acquainted with Ladak, who went closely into the questionj

s_
oo _J I
X
o> r
w<rLUQ-a
_DQ_"LU
o<_lo

UJ CE

TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN. 21
inclines to the belief that that mighty flood-wave resulted
from a huge landslip blocking up the main river somewhere in
the unknown portion of its course lying in Dilail and Chilas,
near the Punjab frontier, where it is said to be unusually con
fined and shut in by precipitous cliffs and high steep mountains.
We met our camp again at Daolat-Beg-uldi, which place it
reached in three stages of 43 miles in all, from the Shyok, while
the route we followed made the distance about 30 miles, a great
saving in such an inhospitable waste.
The elevation of Daolat-Beg-uldi is 16,700 feet. It lies on
the verge of the Dipsang plateau, about 17,500 feet high, which
we crossed on our return journey. The distress in man and
beast produced by rarefaction of the air, which had troubled us
on the Khardung pass, lasted for a very short time, as the
descent there led down to comparatively low ground, but the
Susser landed us on the high undulating bleak plateau which
extends for about 100 miles from that pass on the south to the
Suget on the north, and our party suffered continuously more or
less during the seven days occupied in marching over it.
An energetic Hindu trader arrived at Daolat-Beg-uldi the
same day as ourselves, pushing on with his goods for the Yar
kand market. The anxiety of the Maharajah of Kashmir to
provide against all possible mishap was such that double the
amount of supplies required for our camp was laid out over
the Karakoram, and accordingly the local carriage, generally
available for traders, was fully engaged in this service. The
great demand for transport having raised the charges to one
rupee (about two shillings) per load of 80 lbs. per stage, the
Ladaki porters undertook the carriage of goods at these remune
rative rates, and Kan Chand, the trader I have referred to, was

22 TRAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
on his way over with eighty porters, each carrying a load of nearly
80 lbs. weight. The fact that these men, so laden, made an
average daily journey of fourteen miles for eleven days, over the
high desert regions of Tibet, under peculiarly distressing condi
tions of climate, proves the great endurance of the Ladakis
previously noticed.
The skeletons of horses lie in numbers round the halting-
places and along the mountain desert road. The extreme dry
ness of the air in this rainless region, and the intense cold, kill
all putrid tendencies, and there is no smell of decaying matter.
Ravens appeared to follow our camp the whole way over, on
the outlook for the usual casualties among the pack animals.
Wolves are also said to frequent the route with the same object,
but I did not hear or see any during the journey. Both ravens
and wolves were disappointed of their usual feast when following
our " kafila," as the excellence and liberality of the transport
arrangements prevented any horses or ponies being worked to
death, though, as might be expected with such a large number,
a few died from other causes.
We crossed the Karakoram pass (18,550 feet) on the 12th
of October. Starting from our high camp at Daolat-Beg-uldi,
and halting that night at Karakoram Brangsa on the other side,
at an elevation of 17,030 feet, we found the ascent and descent
comparatively easy, but the "head troubles" from the great
altitude increased in many of the party to a disagreeable extent.
I hesitated long on the summit of the pass before I could make
up my mind to sit down and sketch. While I was at work
with my pencil, two wagtails hopped about me, quite at home
apparently there, 18,550 feet above the sea.
The whole of the country in this high-lying mountain desert

THE KARAKORAM PhAK- FROM THE SOUTHERN SIDE OF THE PASS -LOOKING N. W

N\\\ Ifeliife

oa

o
oci

en

o __:<or<__:
LU
X

X
OD

Ou_LU

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

23

is singularly wild and desolate looking. There is nothing
strikingly grand in the scenery, excepting the glaciers : the
mountains, rising as they do from such an elevated level, appear
mere hills. This was particularly noticeable in the view from
the top of the pass. There is a great absence of rock and
precipice, and gravel spreads far and wide over the slopes and
fiats. The capped peak shown in the sketch of the southern side
of the pass is called Karakoram (black gravel), from the dark
gravel which crumbles from the rock at its summit. This is the
peak which gives its name to the range.

... ... ._»,__.-' . • , yp. ¦„
-5>>*?.iV?-5-T".A_1J_^«

KARAKORAM BRANGSA.

Snow commenced to fall in the evening, at our camp at
Karakoram Brangsa, and continued throughout the night, and
the following morning found the whole country deeply covered
with it. We made a long march of 26 miles to Aktagh, to
escape from it, and after one day's halt there crossed the Suget
pass (17,618 feet), and reached the Karakash valley in a day's
journey of 28 miles. We were glad to escape from the heights,
where the cold at our last camp reached to 15° below zero. Cap-

24 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
tain Trotter and Dr. Stoliczka joined us from the eastern route
the day after we crossed the Karakoram. We came upon grass
and wood at Suget, four miles from ShahiduUa, and halted there
a day, to give our tired cattle a rest. We were there met by
some of the Yarkand officials, who came from ShahiduUa to
receive and entertain us with the usual profuse hospitality of
the country, in the form of a " dastar-khwan " (table-cloth) of
soups, stews, sweets, bread, fruit, and tea. The place, with its
bushes, grass, and running water, appeared charming to us after
the barren frozen wastes of the Karakoram. The air, notwith
standing 7° of frost at night, felt soft and mild in comparison to
what we had just left.
We moved to ShahiduUa on the 17th. Here we were re
ceived by the Yarkand authorities, those of Kashmir having
accompanied us, and arranged for our progress so far. The
former had a number of Kirghiz yaks ready to relieve our
baggage ponies. Very tired did the ponies look after their
hard march and heavy work in the rarefied air of the Kara
koram heights. Mr. Johnson gave a feast of many sheep to
the Ladak, Kurgil, and Dras men, previous to the return journey
with him to Nubra and Leh.
Captain Biddulph joined on the 18th, and then, for the
first time, the whole of the officers of the mission were assembled
together in camp. Captain Biddulph's party brought very
complete reports of the Chang-Chemno route. Notwithstand
ing the easier nature of the country there, and the belief which
at one time prevailed, that the traders were anxious to adopt it
in preference to the Karakoram road, the latter continues to be
used by them to the total exclusion of the former. The old
road offers to them the advantages of a considerable saving in

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 25
distance on the whole journey, and less ground to pass over,
where carriage of food for man and beast is absolutely neces
sary, — advantages which, in their experience, outbalance the
toil and risks of a rougher route and the severe Susser pass.
Khoten is the most flourishing, and in point of productive
industry the most important of the provinces of Kashghar. It
has no direct trade with India, though it is very advantageously
situated for such. The desire is to keep Khoten secluded on
account of its gold fields, which contribute largely to the state
treasury. An easy route from Leh leads over the less elevated
plains to the east of the Lingzi Thang, by the Pangong lake
and the vicinity of Rudok, to Polu, the frontier village of
Khoten in that direction. The great superiority of this route
consists in fuel being abundant, and a good supply of grass
procurable throughout ; it is, moreover, said to be quite practi
cable for the hardy Bactrian camel, which is extensively bred
and used in Khoten. But a great portion of it lies in Chinese
territory; and while the " pushm" (shawl wool) merchants of the
adjoining districts under British and Kashmir rule are permitted
to frequent the Rudok district markets, the national obstructive
policy is opposed to any through traffic.
Captain Trotter carried on his journey an indiarubber
boat, by means of which he and Captain Biddulph navigated
for the first time the waters of the Pangong lake, lying at the
great elevation of 13,900 feet above the sea. The party was
accompanied by a flock of the load-carrying sheep of Tibet,
laden with flour and grain, a description of which is given in
Moorcroft's Travels and Cunningham's Ladak. The following is
Captain Biddulph's account of this novel transport train with
which he joined our camp at ShahiduUa : —
E

26 TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.
" I left Tankse on 18th September, taking with me thirty
sheep carrying loads of grain and flour. Wishing merely to
test their marching capabilities, I looked upon the supplies they
carried as extra, and their loads remained intact till within four
marches of ShahidooUa, when I was forced to commence using
them. " The Tartars usually make their sheep carry a load of
32 lbs., and march seven or eight mUes a day only, making
frequent halts ; as, however, I expected to be marching hard at
times, I put only a load of 20 lbs. on each sheep. Beyond this
I took no care of them, and they simply took their chance.
"A great part of the route was over rough and stony
ground, but only one sheep broke down, though many of them
showed signs of footsoreness at times.
" The loads, secured by breast and breech ropes, ride weU,
sinking into the fleece, and not being Uable to shift.
" On fair ground, where they travelled with a broad front,
they marched at the rate of one and three-quarter mUe an
hour ; a large number would no doubt travel slower, and much
must depend on the breadth of the road.
"The greatest difficulty they had to contend with was
crossing streams, and while marching in the Karakash vaUey
they were sometimes obliged to cross the river three or four
times in a day. Not only were their loads liable to become
damaged, but the weight of water hanging in their fleeces, and
on several occasions freezing, greatly impeded progress.
" On the days on which they had no grass, they had Uterally
nothing to eat, as they refused grain, not being accustomed to it.
" One man was sufficient to manage the lot, and two men
I should say, could easUy drive and manage a hundred.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

27

" On arrival in camp they were unloaded, and turned out
to shift for themselves till dark, when they were herded for the
night. "The fact that a flock of sheep carrying 20 lbs. loads
should be able to march 330 miles in a month with only one
casualty, through a country in which forage is always scanty,
and at a very inclement season of the year, is remarkable.
After the first march the elevation was never less than 11,000
feet, and the thermometer at night sank to 15° and 16° below
zero. The sheep, however, apparently did not feel either cold
or elevation. Euture exploring parties on the Karakoram will,
I feel certain, find a flock of sheep a most useful addition to
their camp. Not only are they very easUy looked after, but
they can feed themselves as they go along, which ponies cannot
do, and can pick up a subsistence on the scanty pasture grounds
and among the rocks where horses would starve. Besides this,
when their loads are disposed of, they can themselves be eaten.

LOAD-CARRYING SHEEP OF TIBET.

28

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

"The accompanying Table will show the particulars of the
marches they made. I was accompanied the whole time by a
Survey Pundit, who paced the distance each day.

" Table showing Marches taken by a flock of thirty Sheep
carrying loads of 20 lbs.

Makch.

Date.

Miles.

Remarks.

1873.

Tankse to Tchur-ka-talab

18th Sept.

14

Lukung .
19th ,,
7i
Chagra .
Rimdi .
21st ,,
22d „
8
13
Cross Lunkar La, 18, 400 feet.
Pamzal .
23d „
13
Gogra . . .
24th „
12£
Simmmal Lungpa .
Camp near Nischn
26th „
27th Sept.
1214J
No grass. Cross Changlung La, 19,300
feet.
„ on Lingzi Thung
28th „
16J
No grass.
Camp .
Sumnal .
29th ,,
30th „
20421J .
No grass.
Cross Kizzil Dawan, 17,600 feet; did
not arrive in camp till dark.
Kizzil Jilga
1st Oct.
11
Chung Tash
7th „
24
Grass very scarce ; did not arrive till
after dark.
Sumnal .
9th „
13
Camp .
10th „
101
Grass very scarce.
»»
11th „
15
No grass.
j) •
12th ,,
16|
No grass. One sheep broke down on
march.
Sorah .
13th „
54
Camp .
14th „
13
>> •
15th „
18
Supplies not begun to be used till this
evening.
>> •
16th „
104
Gulbasher
17th „
18
ShahidooUa
18th „
23
Total 3304 miles. The last eleven
marches being down the valley of
the Karakash."
CHAPTEE III.
HALT AT SHAHIDULLA— YAKUB KHAN, KASHGHAR ENVOY— SPECIAL COURIERS— ANNUAL
YARKAND CARAVANS— PARTY PROCEEDS TO SANJU— KIRGHIZ AND YAKS— SANJU
PASS— BULLOCK CARRIAGE-MIRZA BAHAUDIN— ABU-BAKR'S FORT— KILIAN KIR
GHIZ-MISSION AND ENVOY REACH SANJU— KARGALIK— YARKAND— VISIT TO THE
GOVERNOR : TO THE CITY— DRESS AND APPEARANCE OF THE PEOPLE— STREETS
AND BAZAARS— MARKET DAY— HUNTING-EAGLES — BEGGARS-POPULATION— MIS
SION QUARTERS— SOLDIERS— CARTS.
The Mission was under orders to halt on the frontier till
joined by Yakub Khan Tora, the Kashghar Envoy to the Vice
roy of India. Yakub Khan, after completing the preliminaries
of the commercial treaty which he was sent to negotiate, pro
ceeded to Constantinople, where it was arranged with the
Sultan's government to declare Kashghar a protected state of
Turkey, with Muhammad Yakub Khan (known as the Atalik
Ghazi) as ruler, under the title of Amir. The Envoy found
the formalities of the Sultan's court sadly against quick de
spatch of business, and his departure for the return journey was
delayed considerably beyond his calculations and our plans.
The progress of the camp from Bawal Pindi, where it was
organised, was slow; the halts were long, pending definite
orders, which depended entirely on the return of the Kashghar
envoy. Our feeling of suspense during all that time of doubt
was painful, and our delight was great when we were secured
against bitter disappointment; for had the envoy not come

30 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
back when he did, we would probably have lost for a time the
opportunity of visiting Eastern Turkistan and exploring the
Pamirs. Yakub Khan succeeded, however, by dint of good
arrangements and hard travelling, in reaching ShahiduUa on the
23d of October. We were overtaken on the 3d, at Tagar, in
the Nubra valley, by MuUa Artuk, the envoy's special messenger
to the Atalik, who also brought a letter from the same to Mr.
Forsyth. The MuUa had travelled so far from Egypt in twenty-
eight days, and reached ShahiduUa, a distance of 177 mUes
farther on, over the high Susser, Karakoram, and Suget passes,
on the 9th, six days later.
The distances done by these special couriers, riding the
same horses day after day, is remarkable. Mulla Artuk, above
mentioned, reached ShahiduUa with the same horses that he
took from our camp in Nubra. Haji Mehmet, another sincdlar,
messenger, overtook me on the 24th, 36 miles beyond Shahi
duUa, riding direct from Aktagh, which he left the previous
day, travelling 62 miles in twenty-nine hours, and crossing the
high Suget and Sanju passes. He was despatched by Yakub
Khan to announce to the Atalik his arrival at the frontier.
The rate of travelUng- is of course greatly increased in the open
country, and on the roads between the large towns, where
posting-stations are established for rapid communication. The
horses are urged to the utmost by the riders, whose exertions
are largely stimulated by hope of reward and fear of punish
ment. A rapid journey is invariably rewarded, and delay is
immediately noticed in a converse manner, no excuse being
allowed. No feeling of "kismut" influences the messenger
as he struggles hard, and spares neither himself nor horse in
the endeavour to out-gaUop aU others and get a higher reward,

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

31

though he acknowledges the "inevitable" in the issue if dis
appointing. The annual caravans from Yarkand to Leh and India began
to reach ShahiduUa as we arrived, and we soon found that the
pasture there was not sufficient to subsist our horses as weU as
theirs, nor was the food supply enough for the whole party to
keep together tiU the Kashghar envoy should join. It was
therefore arranged that a great portion of our camp should pro
ceed to Sanju, five days' journey on in the inhabited country,
where supplies were plentiful; and Captains Biddulph and
Trotter, Dr. StoUczka, and myself, accordingly left for that place
on the 21st of October. Our Indian servants had at once occa
sion to regret the change from Tartar to Kirghiz, the former
I being patient and obliging
to a degree, ever ready to
I do anything and every-
I thing for them, while
I the latter smUingly de-
Iclined to assist in any
I way beyond preparing the
yaks, regulating their
loads, and driving the
[animals when laden. We
[crossed the Sanju pass
1 (16,650 feet)
; k^ on the 23d. It
I was deep with
fresh snow, and
here, for the third and last time during my journey, riding yaks
were used. The yaks furnished on this occasion by the Kir-

KIRGHIZ YOUTH.

32 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
ghiz appeared better movers than the Ladaki animals previously
ridden. They were subject in a greater degree to control and
guidance by the single rope attached to the nose ring, and were
capable of being managed and urged by the rider with less
difficulty than the simUar Ladaki steed, which consents to carry
its burden only under loud protest, and after much pulling and
pushing at head and tail. After halting a day at the foot of
the pass, to exchange the yak for buUock carriage, sent from
the low country to meet us, we proceeded towards Sanju,
and reached on the 27th. We met several caravans at
the foot of the pass, all checked by the late heavy snow,
which completely closed the way to them, unassisted by
the Kirghiz and their yaks. These Kirghiz are the nomadic
inhabitants of the Kilian lulls, in the vicinity of Sanju,
and came originally from the Sirikol district. The drivers
with the new (bullock) transport were very different from
the indolent independent Kirghiz. Though speaking Turki,
a language utterly unknown to our camp servants, they
contrived, in their extreme wUlingness to help, to understand
how to make themselves useful in many ways ; and the dis- ,
couraging effect on our attendants of their first experience of
the temper of the new people they were to be thrown among
was thus soon removed.
After crossing the Sanju pass my party was joined by
Mirza Bahaudin, from ShahiduUa. He was one of the first
officials sent from Yarkand to meet the Mission, and write the
reports for Kashghar. He was, as far as I could gather, a
secretary appointed direct by the Atalik to reside at Yarkand
and keep him acquainted with all occurrences, in the manner
practised in eastern governments from the earliest times. He

RIDING YAKS-MOUNTFD FORTHE ASCENT OF THE SANJU PASS.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 33
was a wise and discreet " mirza," full of information on many
subjects, but very chary of imparting it. In part return for
many complimentary attentions and civUities on his part, I
made a flattering likeness of him in my sketch-book (which he
was always examining with the utmost curiosity), which, whUe
pretending indifference to for some time, he afterwards showed
his decided approval of, by speaking of it in such a manner as
to cause his admirers to come often and look at it.
The low state of the Sanju stream permitted us to pass
down along it the whole way instead of taking the " Chu-chu "
circuitous route, which is followed in summer when the stream
is high. Winter had quite set in when we reached Turkistan,
and the country was everywhere " burnt up," as the expression
there is, with frost. The ruins of a stone fort and barrier waU
are seen at the junction of the Chu-chu road with the main one.
The story told in connection with the place is, that between
three and four hundred years ago, Abu-Bakr, a ruler of Yarkand,
when driven out by a successful rival, built this fort, and levied
contributions from all passers by. He gave such trouble,, and
so defied all attempts to capture him or his fort, that at
last a large reward was offered for his head, and his death was
effected through the treachery of one of his adherents. His
head was taken to Yarkand, and the body was buried on
the banks of the Karakash, near the northern approach to
the Sanju pass. We saw the "akoi" (white house) felt
tents of the Kirghiz here and there in sheltered spots
by the Sanju stream before reaching the cultivated and
inhabited country lower down. A small present at a hamlet
of these enabled me to obtain several " studies " for my
sketch-book. When the first disinclination to "sit" was

34

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

overcome, and the suspicion at the unusual request was dissi
pated by seeing the work of the pencil, the head of the
-*~^gg& "Kosh" (famflies) hurried off the
(^ youngest and prettiest woman
"~2|f) among the onlookers, re-ap-
^k_ -~lljif peared with her dressed in a
_*4^lillii-§?ffirai£k_. r~rfm'ty flowered robe, with a
baby in her arms, and in
troduced her as worthy of
special notice. As a
head-dress the Kirghiz
worn en wear a white cloth
rolled evenly, fold on
fold, over a
close - fitting
red or other

KIRGHIZ YOUNG WOMAN.

coloured cap with ear lappets, the whole finished off by passing
the end of the turban over the ear-lappets and under the chin.
The robes are of white and coloured cotton cloth, quilted with
raw cotton for winter wear. The old Kirghiz grandmother
wore a silver bangle on her right arm, and a sUver " shawl-pin "
to confine the inner robe close to the throat. This was the only
occasion on which I observed jeweUery worn by women in
Eastern Turkistan. I found the whole party of women engaged
in making felt. The dress of the Kirghiz men differs in no
materia] manner from that of the settled inhabitants.
^ The head-quarters of the Mission, accompanied by the
Kashghar envoy, reached Sanju on the 30th. A halt of two
days was made to allow of Yakub Khan's heavy baggage
coming up, especially the two mountain battery rifled guns

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

35

presented to the Atalik by the Khedive of Egypt, for the
conveyance of which and other heavy cases several Bactrian

KIRGHIZ OLD WOMAN (GRANDMOTHER).

(double-humped) camels were waiting. We aU left on the 2d
of November, and reached the flourishing town of Kargalik on
the 5th. Here we found such weU-built, spacious, and comfort
able quarters prepared for us, our followers, and horses, that
in our extreme anxiety to proceed we feared these elaborate
arrangements to mean detention and a lengthened stay. The
carpeted rooms and cheery fires, in fireplaces with smokeless
chimneys, were otherwise very enjoyable after our cold journey
from Leh. Kargalik is situated on the main road from Yar
kand to Guma and Khoten, and is the meeting point of the
roads from Leh by the Sanju, KiUan, and Yangi Dawan passes,
and from Tashkurgan, Sirikol, by the Tong route. The
Chinese recognised the strategic importance of Kargalik, and

36 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
had a fort there, now in ruins. The Hakim of Guma visited
the Mission as it passed through a portion of his district be
tween Sanju and Kargalik. In a present of game sent by
him we saw for the first time the " Shaw " pheasant, which to
the ordinary eye looks exactly Uke our own home bird. We
heard of ibex on the heights above Sanju, but were unable to go
out after them.
We reached the city of Yarkand on the 8th of November,
and were remarkably weU received by the people as well as by
the officials. Yakub Khan, as the successful ambassador to
India and Constantinople, received a warm welcome, and was
made much of. We were met by the Governor's son at the
head of a mounted guard, and by crowds of the townspeople
mounted and dressed in holiday bright-coloured garments. Our
escort of cavalry and infantry of the Punjab Guide Corps (num
bering twenty -two) attracted attention by their neat appear
ance. The horses of the troopers had been weU cared for on
the journey over the Karakoram, and showed in good condition.
We " mounted " the infantry soldiers from the first, and, looking
after their own ponies, each man came to smarten his animal
and riding equipment as carefully as if he had belonged to the
cavalry branch of the service.
We visited Muhammad Yunas, the Dadkhwah (Governor,
lit. "demander of justice") of Yarkand, the day after our
arrival. Serjeant Ehind (our camp serjeant, who belonged to
the 92d Highlanders) created a sensation by appearing in the
fuU Highland costume of his kilted uniform. The Dadkhwah
was courteous and kindly in his manner, and expressed much
pleasure at again welcoming Mr. Forsyth to Yarkand. He
seemed pleased with the presents given to him, among which
was a large musical box, brought in playing " Come where my

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

37

love lies dreaming." We found our robes of honour, signifying
high favour, awaiting us on return to the Mission residence, a
delicate piece of attention and consideration on the part of the
Dadkhwah. These robes are always of startling " thunder-and-

YARKAND OFFICIAL.

lightning" patterns; and had the custom been foUowed of
giving them at the time of our visit, and throwing them over

38

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

our shoulders as usual on such occasions, to be worn and exhi
bited in public on the way back, we would have presented an
amusing if not absurd appearance, dressed in uniform as we
were. 
We were allowed to visit the city and go about the country
as we chose, the only condition being that we should always be
accompanied by one of the Governor's officials. This was perfectly
reasonable, and was easily explained as necessary for several rea
sons, without mentioning the real object. We rode through the
town and its bazaars on the day foUowing our visit to the Gover
nor. No restrictions
had been placed on
the appearance of
females in the streets,
as was done at the time
of Mr. Forsyth's first
mission in 1870 ; and
in their eager curiosity
to see us, we had many
opportunities of study
ing ladies' " winter
fashions " in Yarkand.
I say "winter fashions,"
because on our return
from the Oxus in May,
| we found a thorough
revolution in ladies'
; dress, extending to
hats and shoes. In
winter the head covering consists of an exaggerated "rink"
fur cap, generally made of black lamb's wool, with a top trim-

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 39
ming of otter fur, and a crown of coloured silk or cotton cloth.
This is worn over a large square of white muslin which hangs
down the back, and is sometimes brought over the
shoulders and tied in front. I have seen it held by the
teeth to act as a pretence for a veil. The hair is generally
plaited in two long tails, but is at times worn loose in ringlets.
The robes are long and ample, and cut straight ; the outer one
showing by the chevrons across the chest whether the wearer
is married or not, the chevrons being the distinguishing mark of
a wife. Long leather or embroidered coloured cloth boots, with
high heels, complete the costume. The outer robes are made of
thick strong cotton cloth, wadded with the raw material, and of
aU colours and patterns, from the brightest to the quietest. The
chevrons are always of a colour to contrast with that of the
robe. The colours most in vogue with the mass are grey,
chocolate, dark green, and blue. The inner robes are generaUy
white, with red chevrons. On holiday occasions they show in
dresses of Khoten and Andijani silk, with large Chinese-like
patterns on bright grounds, and conspicuous borders and
linings, with embroidered cloth boots, neatly trimmed with floss
sUk rosettes, all in good keeping with the prevafling colour.
The inner robes on such occasions are also of. bright colours.
The children have simUar attention and taste displayed in their
dress on fete days, and some were seen with coloured sUk bows
and bands, and equally neat shoes. The superior class wear
fur-Uned sUk robes, and caps made entirely of the valuable
Siberian otter fur, a skin of which sells there at nine " tillas,"
equivalent to £5. No jewellery appears to be worn.
The "height of fashion" is to connect the eyebrows
straight across, increase the hair plaits to the utmost that can

40

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

possibly be thought natural (when the wearer has not abundant
locks), and give colour to the cheeks by artificial means.
The horn-shaped head-dress mentioned by Shaw is occasion-
aUy seen. The tunic, of light muslin, sometimes thrown over
it, is simply a light summer dress worn with it as a wrapper.
The veU is worn, but is seldom used. It is thrown coquettishly
back over the cap, or put up under it. The custom used to be
for the women to go about un-
veUed, but under the Atalik's
severe appHcation of Muham-
madan law this is now forbid
den, and on the approach of
the "Kazi" (religious magis
trate) on his rounds, there is
always a general rush among
the women in the streets to
escape from his observation,
or to get out and puU down
their veUs. At first when we
used to ride through the city,
the Yuzbashi or other attend
ant official would ride ahead,
and call to the women to veU
before the strangers, but lat
terly they ceased this, and our
approach caused no alarm or
hurried escape.
The ordinary dress of the men is a close-fitting cap lined
with lamb's wool or fur, turned up aU round at the bottom, the
same style of robe as the women, but confined at the waist by a
cotton girdle, and long plain leather riding boots, with felt

YARKAND WOMAN.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 41
stockings. The better class wear the high " tilpak " cap, lined
with otter or other expensive fur, and fur-lined robes. Turbans
are also worn with or without the fur cap, but they are an
article of luxury not often within the reach of the lower class.
For the latter, sheepskin, with the wool attached, is the uni
versal warm material for winter caps and coats, and it, with
felt and cotton coverlets, forms the bedding of aU classes.
Fair complexions and black hair prevaU. In figure both
men and women are middle sized, strong, and robust. The
women are often rather handsome, with fresh-coloured pleasant
faces, and neat small feet. As a people they are of a merry,
happy disposition, fond of amusement, music, and dancing, but
under the present priestly rule they are considerably restricted
in these pleasures.
The streets of Yarkand city present a busy, cheerful appear
ance. Everything is well ordered and arranged. Separate
bazaars, some of them covered, are appointed for the sale of
different kinds of merchandise and manufactures ; and loud-
voiced hawkers, with trays of smaU wares, pie-men with
barrows, and market gardeners carrying baskets in the Indian
" banghy " fashion, suspended from a supple pole laid over the
shoulders, go about from place to place. Water-carriers also
carry water buckets in the same " banghy " fashion, as weU as
in one long deep bucket with a pole passed through the handles,
resting on the shoulders of two men. Whenever we stopped at
a shop to purchase, or make inquiry as to cost, the moderate
prices asked of the native buyers were at once raised extra
vagantly high, and a crowd immediately collected to see the
" Firangi." This was the term by which we were known and
spoken of by the people at first, but it was not used in an
offensive sense as is sometimes supposed to be the case in India.
G

42 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
All Europeans are known in Turkistan as "Firangi." In
Wakhan, where we were in high favour with all the people, an
old man who remembered Wood, the famous traveller, spoke of
him in the most respectful manner after he was informed of his
being a countryman of ours, as " Firangi." We always found
the crowds, through which we had to press' our way on horse
back, respectful and good humoured to a degree. .
Every town has its one weekly market day, when the
people, of the surrounding country flock in to buy and sell.
Yarkand is crowded to excess on its market day. Our first visit
to this weekly gathering drew a great foUowing of inquisitive
villagers wherever we appeared. On such days 'the shops do a
brisk trade, and the cries of rival vendors in praise of their
goods are deafening and unceasing. The Chinese cooks shout
out the delights of their " made " dishes, ready to be served up
hot and steaming in pottery bowls at the clean well-scrubbed
tables inside their tidy restaurants. Horses and cattle, sheep
and goats, are there sold in their different market places outside
the city walls. The gaUows, described by Mr. Shaw as occupy
ing a very conspicuous place in the city when he made his first
adventurous visit in 1868, now stands in a corner of the sheep
market. Women are to be seen riding to market in " cavalier "
fashion, and making their purchases in a thoroughly business
like manner. The sex holds a much more honourable position
in the household in Turkistan than in India.
We saw the "burgut" (mentioned by Marco Polo and
Atkinson), hunting golden eagle, at Yarkand for the first time.
A gazelle, killed by trained eagles, was sent to us, and on our
expressing a desire to see some sport with these birds, seven
were sent out to meet us at some likely ground beyond the city.
We were not fortunate enough to find any large game, and two

< tz

o CO

ill mM

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 43
"flights" at heron proved unsuccessful. Captain Biddulph,
however, had some sport with them during a trip he made from
Kashghar to Marulbashi, which I shall mention farther on in
my narrative, and Ulustrate with drawings made from the life
on the occasion now noted, and Captain Biddulph's personal
description of the manner in which the bird strikes and seizes
its prey. On returning from our morning's ride with the
eagles, we feU in with a large party of the town's people playing
at " oghlak," the game on horseback so weU described in Shaw's
Yarkand. Some of us joined in it with the attendant officials,
who rode weU, and greatly enjoyed the fast and furious fun.
Beggars are a recognised and regular institution in Yar
kand, forming quite a professional body. Beggars marry there,
and the chUdren grow up to follow their parents' example.
Beggars ride in their travels through the country with bells
attached to the horses' necks, to draw attention to the profes
sion of the rider, and the fact that alms are expected. This
privileged class do not beg in the usual manner, but loudly
demand charity in the name of " Allah," as a religious obliga
tion due to them, addressing the passers-by with cries of " Hakk,
hakk," meaning " the rights, the dues,"' and giving thanks by
the usual stroking of the beard with both hands, and the
" AUa-ho-akbar." It is amusing to see the female beggars
gravely making the same beard-stroking gesture. But while
the characteristic reUgious government of the " Atalik Ghazi "
thus tolerates mendicants as a professional body, the able-bodied
find no place in it, and a "sturdy beggar" is never seen.
Various causes combine to remove such to an active and useful
life, as soldiers or servants. Vagrancy is not permitted; aU
vagabonds and men unable to give a good account of themselves,
are, if capable of service, pressed into the ranks of the army.

44 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
The city walls of Yarkand are weU kept up, and smaU guards
hold its gateways. The space enclosed by the walls is great, a
fact which appears hitherto to have had a misleading effect in
calculating the number of inhabitants. The accounts previously
given of the population were based on the supposition that
there was little open space or garden ground within the city waU,
but this is now known to be incorrect. We estimated the
population at 40,000.
During our stay we occupied the quarters which were
assigned to Mr. Forsyth on his first visit in 1870. These were
situated within the " Yangi-Shahr," or fortified cantonment
outside the city, where the Governor and his officials reside.
The Dadkhwah, Muhammad Yunas, is the second dignitary in
the kingdom, and keeps up considerable state. His guards
were the first of the regular troops we saw. They are composed
of a great mixture of classes and nationahties. A party of five
sent to us to be " pictured " consisted of two Tashkendis, one
Khokandi, one Kashgari, and one Yarkandi. His artillery
guard were the only soldiers with whom uniform was attempted.
They serve odd pieces of ordnance parked near the Governor's
" urda " (palace), besides long wall pieces caUed "taifu," which
they also carry and use in the field.
On the 25th of November the cases and packages contain
ing the presents for the Amir, and our heavy baggage, were
despatched to Kashghar in the excellent fight carts of the
country. These carts are said to have been introduced by the
Chinese; they carry about 16 cwt.,. and are dragged by four
horses, of which one is in the shafts and three in front. Only
the wheeler and near leader have driving-reins, the others in
front being connected with the latter by coupling-reins. Th6
leaders' traces run from their coUars to the body of the cart

ANDIJANl TAIFURCHIS OF THE YARKAND GOVERNOR'S GUARD.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

45

underneath, and are supported by wooden hoops Suspended to
both ends of the shafts. These carts are of great breadth
between the wheels, and remarkably easy of draught. The
usual traveUing complement of horses is four, harnessed as
already mentioned, but for ordinary work or short distances
they are often used with one horse, and sometimes with two in
tandem fashion. I have even seen four leaders to one in the
shafts, but the extra horse appeared to be undergoing training
with steady companions. The field artillery guns at Kashghar
are harnessed with three horses unicorn fashion.

A WOMAN OF SANJU.

CHAPTEE IV.
DEPARTURE FOR KASHGHAR— POST HOUSES— COMMANDANT OF YANGI-HISSAR FORT-
GUNS CARRIED BT ALL OFFICIALS— TANGI-HISSAR-KASHGHAR— RECEPTION BY
THE ATALIK — CITY — COTTON MANUFACTURES— EXPORT TRADE — SILK— WOOL —
CHINESE AND TUNGANIS — DOMESTIC SLAVES — SKATING — MECHANICS AND
ARTISANS.
We were entertained by the Dadkhwah on the 27th with a
wonderful effort of cookery in countless dishes, prepared in the
Chinese fashion, after which we said good-bye to our kind host,
and took our departure for Kashghar the foUowing day. We
traveUed by the same road that Messrs. Shaw and Hayward
went by in 1868, and which has been fully described by them.
Pheasants and gazelles were seen on the way, but our dafly
journeys were too long to allow of sport. We made five stages
to Kashghar, of 25, 30, 32, 22, and 15 miles respectively, halt
ing two days at Yangi-Hissar. The staging houses along the
road had been prepared for our reception, and we found in the
blue, red, and white " posts " comfortable accommodation, very
different from what we would have had in our tents in the
severe cold then prevailing. Bobat is the Turki for posthouse,
and on the Yarkand-Kashghar road, Kok, Ak, and Kizil Eobat
are met with ; — the blue, white, and red " posts," so called from
local peculiarities.
Khul Muhammad, Pansad-Bashi (head of 500), Command
ant of the Yangi-Hissar fort, met the Mission half-way from

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

47

Yarkand, and conducted us to Ak-Bobat, a posting stage
in the desert, where we were welcomed with a hot break
fast. The Commandant was accompanied by a weU-mounted
and equipped guard of nineteen men, armed with percussion-
lock rifles, manufactured in Kashghar after an obsolete Euro-

KHUL MUHAMMAD.

pean army pattern. The men were uniformly dressed in
yellow tanned leather long coats and wide trousers, edged with
fur. They waited on us at breakfast, as aU such guards and
attendants do, spreading the "dastar-khwan" cloth, and
handing in the dishes in a noiseless and. ready manner.
Khul Muhammad, Bai Baba, a strikingly good-looking, fair-
haired Khokandi officer with him, and the "Usher of the

48

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

white rod," in attendance on the Mission during the stay at
Yangi-Hissar, all gave me opportunities of sketching them in

my pocket-book. A peeled willow wand is the mark of special
duty, and is often seen carried by mounted couriers as weU as
by subordinate officials on ceremonial occasions. Every

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 49
official who bears arms, from the highest to the lowest, carries
a gun or rifle, and never moves out on important duty or
pubUc business without it. Yakub Khan, the Atalik's nephew,
and Kashghar envoy, who returned with us, was the only
exception I observed to this rule; and though he appeared
without the usual gun, he carried at his belt, in the prevaUing
fashion, powder and baU bags and " priming" horn, with numer
ous other gun appliances and appendages. I saw Beg-Kuli-
Beg, the Amir's eldest son, ride past the Mission residence at
Kashghar, with Niaz Beg, the governor of Khoten, both carrying
guns slung over their shoulders in the ordinary manner, and
Nubbi Buksh, the principal mUitary commander, who showed
the troops to us there, bore a double-barreUed rifle.
The view on approaching Yangi-Hissar is very pretty. The
town was crowded with people assembled to see us pass. It
has a long covered bazaar with numerous busy shops, and looks
as if it were the centre of a thriving local trade. A lofty
gaUows fitted for three occupies a conspicuous place at one end
of the town. The fort is built on the usual Chinese rectangular
plan with projecting towers, and ditch and glacis ; it appears
comparatively new, and is said to be well garrisoned and
provided. We reached Kashghar on the 4th of December. Mirza
Ahmed Kush-Begi, formerly governor of Tashkend under the
Khokand government, and now holding high rank at the
Atalik's court, met the Mission some distance off for the
usual " istikbal " (honourable reception), and conducted us to the
" Elchi Khana," a very commodious set of quarters opposite the
entrance to the Atalik's fortified palace (the Yangi-Shahr or
mUitary cantonment of Kashghar). Here was found comfort-
H

50 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
able accommodation for the whole party, including the escort,
servants, and foUowers. Good stabling was provided for the
riding horses, and the pack animals were weU sheltered behind
the high protecting waUs of the enclosure. Ihrar Khan Tora,
who had visited India some years before as envoy from Kash
ghar, was appointed Mihmandar (in charge of guests),
with the royal instructions to see that the "king's guests"
should want for nothing. We were summoned by the Atalik to
pay him a private visit on the day of our arrival. A large crowd
had assembled to see us come, and remained all day about the
place to see us again when we issued to make our visit. We were
received by the Atalik in the most friendly manner, indicative
at once of the perfect honour and safety in which our stay
there was made throughout the winter, and as long as we were
in Kashghar territory. Nothing else was to be expected con
sidering the high auspices under which we proceeded there,
and the uniformly kindly disposition which the Atalik Ghazi
has always shown towards Europeans.
Etiquette forbade our visiting the city tiU our formal reception
by the Atalik, and the presentation of her Majesty the Queen's
and the Viceroy's letters had taken place. The Atalik's absence
on a short pilgrimage to a saintly shrine in the neighbourhood
delayed this till the 11th, when all was done with the utmost
ceremony and display. We went to the city on the 12th, and
the inhabitants then saw Europeans for the first time within its
walls. Alish Beg, the Dadkhwah of Kashghar, entertained us
at a bewildering banquet of over one hundred dishes, and for
the more convenient attention to which he had caused tables
and chairs to be made for our especial use. We had also found
tables and chairs in our well-carpeted rooms in the Elchi

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 51
Khana, showing how all our wants and ways had been con
sidered and provided for. A guard of Tunganis with " taifu "
wall pieces held the city gate by which we entered.
The city of Kashghar is not so large as that of Yarkand,
being three mUes in circumference, whUe the latter is three and
a half. Both are surrounded by mud waUs of great thickness,
with many projecting square towers. Both towns are buUt
entirely of mud, and have no pretensions whatever to anything
remarkable in architecture. Two branches of the " KizU Su," or
Kashghar river, flow past the city, the one on the north and the
other on the south, meeting at a short distance below. Both
of these branches are crossed by well-constructed wooden
bridges. Kashghar is the terminus of a considerable trade with
the Eussian possessions extending from Tashkend to Kuldja.
The manufactures of the country are confined chiefly to
sUk and cotton, both of which are abundantly produced in it.
The silk mainly comes from Khoten, where it is worked up by
itself, and also mixed with cotton, into a variety of fabrics for
home use and foreign export. The stout cotton cloths of
Eastern Turkistan are well known for their durability in the
markets of Badakhshan and Eussian Turkistan beyond the
Tian Shan ; and there is a steady export trade in them from
Kashghar, Yarkand, and Khoten. The only foreign cotton
goods that find a sale in Eastern Turkistan are the fine kinds,
and muslin, chintzes, and prints, the manufacture of which is
not yet understood, but the demand for these is limited by
being beyond the means of the mass of the population. This
fact should, I think, settle the question of any important
market in that part of Central Asia for Manchester goods.
The raw silk of Khoten is coarse and inferior, simply from

52 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
want of skUl and care in its preparation. The absence of a
better market than the country itself affords is against any
change at present, but the opening of a direct trade with India
by the easy route I have mentioned would soon correct this, and
bring about an improvement, simUar to what is now being
effected with Kashmir sUk, which promises fair to equal yet the
good produce of other countries. This trade between Khoten
and India could be carried on by an extension of the operations
of the present shawl wool traders who visit the Eudok districts
annually, with flocks of load-carrying sheep, taking rice, flour,
coarse cloths, and other articles to barter for the " pushm " of
the shawl goat. The sUk of Khokand is superior to that of
Khoten, and it again is exceUed by that of Bokhara, which
commands the highest price in the Indian market. With
direct routes and more freedom of action to merchants in Eastern
Turkistan, India might compete with China in silk as she is now
doing in tea. The Khokand trade, of course, would be subject
to Eussian influence.
Felt and carpets are the only woollen fabrics made in Eastern
Turkistan, except in the remote corner of Sirikol, where a rough
" homespun " is produced for domestic use. Foreign cloths are
imported to Eastern Turkistan, and sold at a high price princi
pally to the upper class. There is a vast consumption of sheep
in the country by its great meat-eating population, and the
skins, with wool attached, are worked up into coats, caps, and
bedding, as I have already told. In winter the sheepskin forms
the covering of the labouring people night and day. Khoten
and Kogiar, to the south of Yarkand, are famous for their
superior felts.
Mention has been made of the. inhabitants of the country

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

53

about Lop Nor wearing " clothes made of the bark of trees." I
observed one of the Kashghari officials who accompanied me to
the Tian Shan wearing a robe made of something very like
linen duck, or fine canvas, and on asking concerning it, he said
that he got the cloth at Aksu, and that it came from Lop, where
it was made and used by the people. This would seem to point
to flax plants being the
"trees" spoken of as
furnishing in their bark
material for clothes.
A considerable num
ber of pure Chinese are
to be seen at Kashghar
and Yarkand. Almost
aU, with the exception
of those serving in the
army, are in poor cir
cumstances, as artizans
and menial servants,
or as street
hawkers,the last re-
source of
the old and
worn out.
The late
successive revolutions
KASSIM AKHUN, ALIAS CHAWLIANG KHWAITANG. ari<l Mu-
hammadan risings, which ended in the firm establishment ofthe

54 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
present sovereignty, reduced the Chinese, who saved their lives
by embracing the faith of the conquerors, to poverty and
slavery. AU these proselytes had to abandon their Chinese
names and take the Muhammadan ones given by the triumphant
MuUas. One of them, a small shopkeeper in Yarkand, used to
frequent our quarters there with Chinese curiosities for sale. He
spoke sorrowfully of the change by which he lost his old name
of Chawliang Khwaitang, and his pigtafl, when told that he was
thenceforth Kassim Akhun, a true believer. Seeing a chance of
profitable sale for old china, he offered to show a very rare piece,
but explained that secrecy was absolutely necessary in the
transaction, in order to conceal his possession of such a costly
article as it was. The simple fellow made his appearance the
following. evening, and produced most cautiously from under his
capacious robe a coarse European earthenware figure of a sheep,
with a movable top, such as is seen as an ornament on a cottage
mantelpiece. The original price was probably one shilling, but
the owner valued it at about two pounds sterling. We left him
in undisturbed possession of his treasure, which he firmly
believed in, regarding our account of its Western manufacture
as an invention with the object of depreciating its value. Tun-
ganis are also seen in the position of slaves, probably captives
brought by returning warriors from the Eastern campaigns
about Turfan, and permitted to be kept as household servants.
Under the Atalik, slavery is forbidden by law, but this practi
cally only extends to public traffic. Slavery in the modified
form of domestic bondage still exists, but only as a foreign
institution, in which the mass of the population have no share
or interest. Several of our party had come provided with skates, and

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 55
these were soon put in requisition, to the surprise and astonish
ment ofthe people, who had never seen the like before. Skating
is known, though not practised, in Khokand. It has probably
been seen by many of the inhabitants in the neighbouring Eussian
cantonments. It was a very popular amusement with us, and
one which some of our escort tried hard to learn how to enjoy.
The most perfect imitations of our skates were produced for us in
the Atalik's workshops, and an attempt was made to induce the
courtiers to take to the amusement. Two were found willing to
try, but the awkward contortions and struggles of a beginner
were too much in opposition to the solemn and serious deport
ment of the court, and after the first attempt the exercise was
condemned as " undignified and ridiculous." We continued to
indulge in it, however, to our own thorough enjoyment, and the
amusement of the spectators, who sometimes regarded an
occasional rare good fall at full-power speed as a part of the
exercise, and loudly expressed their admiration of the per
formance. Many of the mechanics and artizans employed in the Atalik's
workshops are said to be Hindustanis and foreigners. Among
the presents to the Atalik were sewing machines, one of which,
a highly ornamental one, was broken in transit, and on inquiry
as to the possibUity of repair at Kashghar, a Khokandi was sent,
who not only did all that was required, but also showed perfect
acquaintance with the working of the machine. He told me
that he gained his knowledge at Tashkend. We took up steam
and other useful models, which, however, did not excite much
interest. The electric telegraph, which I erected and worked
with Captain Biddulph, attracted little or no attention, and the
proposal to extend the wire into the Atalik's palace was not

56

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

received in a manner to encourage its taking a practical form.
The galvanic battery and wheel of life, as usual, proved most
popular.

USHER OF THE WHITE ROD.

CHAPTEE V.

DEPARTURE FOR THE TIAN SHAN— ARTUSH VALLEY AND STREAM— RUSSIAN MERCHANTS
—TOYAN VALLEY AND STREAM— FORTS OF THE CHAKMAK DEFILE— CARAVAN
ROUTE— OLD VOLCANO— OVIS POLI AND BLACK IBEX— RUSSIAN KAZAKS AND KARA
KIRGHIZ — HERDS OF PONIES — MANNER OF HUNTING OVIS POLI— KIRGHIZ
SOLDIERS AND SPORTSMEN — CHADIR KUL LAKE — WATERSHED — TIAN SHAN
RANGE— SEVERE COLD— CAPTAIN TROTTER'S WORK— STRICT CHURCH DISCIPLINE
—EXCAVATED ROOMS AT ARTUSH.

The Envoy, Mr.
Forsyth, having ob
tained permission
from the Amir for
a party from the
Mission to visit the
Chadir -Kul lake,
on the Tian Shan
plateau, lying to
the north of Kash
ghar, Dr. Stoliczka,
Captain Trotter,
and myself, left for
that place on the 31st of December. We were asked by the
local authorities to trust entirely to their hospitality for tents,
food, and baggage animals, and accordingly as " guests " were
obliged to accommodate ourselves to their arrangements. We
thus found our roving propensities considerably restricted. The

BLACK IBEX,

58 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
official appointed to accompany us did not share our anticipations
of pleasure in visiting the Tian Shan highlands, and could not un
derstand our desire to leave the comfortable quarters in Kashghar
and travel in the mountains in the severe Arctic cold then pre
vailing there. Our intention, at starting, was to visit both the
Torugat and Terekty passes over the southern crest of the Tian
Shan, but we were obliged to content ourselves with the trip to Cha-
dir-Kul over the former, and return, leaving the latter unvisited.
Our first day's journey was to Bezakh, twenty-six mUes
from Yangi-Shahr, Kashghar, a village in the upper Artush
district. The road lay in a northerly direction past the city of
Kashghar, and through about four miles of gardens and fields to
an open stony plain, leading by a gentle rising slope to a smaU
spur from a low range of hills running from west to east, and
through a gap in which the river Artush has forced its way.
The road passes along the river bed through the range, and
crosses to the north bank, there reaching the valley of Artush,
a broad and far-extending fertile plain, studded with vUlages
and hamlets, showing signs of thriving population and careful
farming. This well -irrigated and closely-cultivated vaUey is
well watered by never -failing streams from the Tian Shan and
Terek ranges, and produces wonderfully rich and abundant
harvests. We passed here two large camel caravans coming
from Vernoe (Almati) to Kashghar with Eussian goods, of which
cast-iron cooking pots formed a considerable portion. These
Eussian iron vessels are in general use throughout Eastern
Turkistan, and among the Kirghiz. The caravans take back the
thick durable cotton cloths which form the staple article of the
Kashghar export trade. We were accommodated for the night
in the house of the Bai (head) of the viUage, who, unfortunately

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 59
for us, was absent, otherwise we would probably not have
suffered from a short supply of food as we did that night, owing
to hasty arrangements, and possibly the desire of our attendant
official to magnify difficulties and discomforts, so as to induce
compliance with his wish for early return.
We continued our journey the foUowing day in a westerly
direction for tliree mUes across the Artush vaUey to the mouth
of the Toyan valley and stream, up which we proceeded to
Chung Terek (big poplars), a distance of twenty miles. The
Toyan stream, which flows from the Torugat pass, divides into
two branches where it debouches into the plains in the Artush
valley ; the upper one flows nearly due east, and is the principal
source of irrigation in this fertile plain. The south or main
branch flows south-east into the river Artush, which is said to
rise in the Terek mountains on the road to Khokand.
On entering the Toyan vaUey, here about two mUes wide,
we may be said to have fairly entered the Tian Shan m'oun-
tains. The ridge we had crossed on the previous day's journey
(and which at its highest point is only a few hundred feet above
the plain) is rather an isolated ridge than a portion of the main
range. In marching up this open valley we had in view the
rough serrated edges of the Ming-yol hill, a prominent object in
the panoramic view from the roof of the Embassy buildings in
Kashghar, from which it has the appearance of a large isolated
lull. On going partially round it, however, it appeared to be
only the end of a long ridge of nearly uniform height, running
in a direction a little north of west, towards the angle formed by
the junction of the Tian Shan with the Alai range.
In continuing our march up the valley, we saw in front, at
a distance however of only a few miles, some snowy peaks, the

60 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
same that are visible from Kashghar, behind the Artush range,
and which thence appear to be peaks of the main range running
south of the Chadir-Kul. They are not so, however, but form a
lower range of hills running nearly parallel to the main range,
i.e. from west to east. At six miles from the Artush is the
Khitai (Chinese) or Tessik-tash Karawal (guard-house), a fittle
square fort used as a customs post, and now held by a smaU
party of Kashghar troops. This was the most advanced post in
this direction held by the Chinese during their occupation of
the country.
Chung Terek is a most picturesque spot, and in summer the
scenery there must be singularly beautiful. The river banks at
some places below Chung Terek have a height of fuUy 200
feet, and are cut by rivulets into remarkably regular-looking
pillars and turrets, presenting the appearance of imitation by
nature of human art. We saw Kirghiz scattered over the whole
vaUey, located wherever grazing was available for their flocks
and herds. Many of their " akoi " hamlets show signs of settled
habitation in patches of irrigated and cultivated ground, which
are probably attended by the famUy elders when the annual
summer move to the high pasture lands takes place.
Leaving Chung Terek on the third day, we reached the
Chakmak forts, twenty-one miles up the Toyan, over a gentle
but regular ascent the whole way. About two miles above Chung
Terek the valley suddenly narrows, and continues confined
between precipitous hUls for about twenty miles. At ten miles
from the commencement of this defile is the fort of Mirza Terek,
a carefully constructed work which could give a great deal of
trouble to an enemy advancing from the north ; both here and
at Chakmak, nine mUes farther up the stream, the overhanging

VIEW IN THE TOYUIM VALLEY NEAR CHUNG TEREK, TIAN S H AN - LOO Kl N G S.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 61
heights are so precipitous and inaccessible that it would be
almost impossible for the enemy to effect a lodgment in them.
The fort itself sweeps the whole of the approach, in addition to
which an extended curtain wall, secured against view and
enfilade, affords a ' strong flank defence. The Chakmak fort is
a place of remarkable strength, its natural advantages having
been greatly increased by skUfully placed works, and weU
selected fines of defence. These fortifications are said to have
been designed and built four years ago by Beg-Kuli-Beg, the
eldest son of the Atalik. Mahmud Beg, the "Toksabai" (Lord
of the Standard) in command, welcomed us kindly and treated
us most hospitably, accommodating us in comfortable quarters
inside the fort, a pleasant change from the smaU, tattered
Kirghiz felt tent, admitting a distressing amount of cold, in
which we had passed the previous night.
We continued in the same general north-west direction on
the fourth day, passing the Suyuk Karawal, eight miles up the
Toyan, where the Suyuk stream joins, flowing from the pass
of the same name. The Suyuk pass, distant thence about two
days' journey, is little more than a footpath, and is not fit for
horses ; but the road from the Torugat pass, about thirty mUes to
the north, is used by laden camels, and is open throughout the
year. The Torugat is the most used caravan route from the
north to eastern Turkistan. The road is good all the way, and
the only difficulties are where it crosses the stream. In winter the
stream is, as we found it, partially frozen over for almost its
entire length. The slope from the Artush valley, height about
5300 feet, to the Torugat pass, 12,760 feet, a distance of eighty
miles, is tolerably uniform throughout, and gives therefore
a regular rise of about 100 feet per mile.
On leaving Chakmak our conductor tried to deter us from

62 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
going on by warnings about the cold, and only took us a
distance of ten miles that day, to Gulja-bashi, a spot in a
sheltered valley with abundant pasturage and bush fuel. Our
party was there joined by tliree Yuzbashis and a Kirghiz
guard from the Chakmak garrison. The following day we made
a march of fifteen miles to Torugat-bela, an interesting road, as
after passing through volcanic rocks we came to a place where
the banks, rising to many hundreds of feet in perpendicular
height, bore unmistakable signs of being the crater of an
extinct volcano. Our geologist, Dr. Stoliczka, who had pre
viously expressed his belief in the existence of an old volcano in
this quarter, was of course delighted. Sir Henry Eawlinson,
the President of the Eoyal Geographical Society of England,
in addressing the meeting of the 15th June 1874, said with
reference to this that the discovery of an extinct crater on the
outer skirts of the Tian Shan was a most important addition
to our knowledge of the physical geography of the region,
confirming, as it did, what the great Humboldt always main
tained with regard to the Tian Shan, but what the Eussian
geographers have recently disputed.
We saw on this day's journey, for the first time, the " Ovis
poli," hitherto regarded as a half mythical animal. On leaving
the road and wandering over the grass-covered undulating hills
and long sloping flats to the west, we saw several large flocks
of this gigantic wUd sheep, but were not fortunate enough to
shoot any. One of our party, in his intense eagerness to be the
envied " first " to bag a specimen, undertook a long and slow
stalk round the summit of a ridge about 14,000 feet high, and
was frost-bitten on the fingers from the cold contact of the rifle
barrel before he got the chance of the shot, which he missed.
The thermometer marked 26° below zero that night outside,

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 63
and 8£° below zero inside our felt tent, pitched in the sheltered
ground of Torugat-bela some distance below. The Torugat-bela
pastures were occupied by Kara Kirghiz and Kazaks from the
Narin valley, who come over every year from the Eussian side
with about 5000 ponies, for winter grazing on the southern
slopes of the pass, and pay revenue while there to Kashghar.
We saw great numbers of their stout well-made ponies all about.
Both they and the men look enduring and active, and they
must be hardy to a degree to stand as they do the chnling
bitter wind of these heights in mid-winter.
The camp halted at the foot of the pass on the 5th January,
and we went about twelve miles towards the west to look out for
Ovis poli, of which we saw several large flocks, one numbering as
many a,s eighty-five. We found them on open ground on the flat-
topped spurs and rounded hills, but when alarmed they took to
precipitous rocks as easily and confidently as ibex. I saw a
black ibex, which I stalked tiU I was nearly frozen, but without
getting a shot. Previous to this, not wishing to return empty-
handed to camp, I had sent off two of my attendant mounted
Kirghiz to try for Ovis poli, and they rejoined me on my way
back with a fine ram. Finding that I had been unsuccessful,
they pressed me hard to allow them to say that the " kUl " was
mine ! Late in the evening another party of our Kirghiz
escort returned with two Ovis poli, a female and a young male.
We obtained in these an excellent supply of meat for our camp.
This "mountain mutton" was good and pleasant to the taste,
with a sUght flavour of venison.
The nature of the country admits of the Ovis poli and the
ibex even, when they come down to feed on the low ground as
I saw, being stalked, followed, or met by the sportsman riding
mounted on a trusty pony. With rifle slung, and accompanied

64 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN
by a couple of mounted Kirghiz, he wanders along, always
approaching a ridge very carefully and peering cautiously over
the edge. If game be seen the guides are consulted, and an
understanding as to the course to be followed is arrived at.
If the ground is very open it wiU probably be necessary to dis
mount and stalk' in the ordinary manner, with aU the science
and care requisite on such occasions. If, however, as is often
the case, in going along a broad open vaUey, a flock is seen to
disappear behind a ridge perhaps a mile off, as hard a pace as
the ground will admit of in the ponies carries up to a stalking
point selected by the Kirghiz. The advantage of this sport Ues
in the excitement of the gallop, and the stalk as weU, and the
great extent of ground that can be covered in a day.
A number of the soldiers in the Chakmak command are
Kipchaks, and Chirik, Alai, and Andijani Kirghiz. Mounted
on the sturdy ponies for which the country is famous, good
shots, and knowing thoroughly the surrounding country, they
are admirably fitted for " scouting " and mounted infantry pur
poses. In the present time of peace they keep their ponies,
hands, and eyes, in capital training, in hunting the Ovis poli and
the ibex. We heard of about one hundred Ovis poli and ibex
shot by the Kirghiz soldiers of the neighbouring parts, having
been distributed on one occasion by the Atalik amongst the
poor of the city of Kashghar during our stay there ; and we
were shown in the Chakmak fort the frozen carcases of about
fifty Ovis poli and black ibex stored as part of the winter food
supply for the garrison, all shot by the Kirghiz belonging to it.
On the 6th we went to the Chadir-Kul lake and back to camp,
a ride of about thirty-two miles. Starting early in the morn
ing, with the thermometer several degrees below zero, we rode
about thirteen miles to the pass, a gentle ascent up the valley till

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 65
' within a mile of the crest, when the rise, though stUl very easy,
is somewhat steeper (about 400 feet in the last mUe). We had
a lovely day for the trip, and Captain Trotter was able to
carry on his work right up to the pass, which he made to be
12,760 feet. On reaching the pass we did not come at once, as
we had expected, into view of the lake, but had to go along a
spur for about three miles in a northerly direction, when we
burst suddenly into full view of the lake, and a perfect forest
of peaks beyond extending from west to east. We were here
about thirty-two miles from the Eussian fort of Narin, by the
Tash Eobat pass, which lay immediately opposite us.
The lake lies east and west, and according to Eussian
accounts its elevation is 11,050 feet above sea-level, the length
14 miles, average breadth 6, depth inconsiderable, and water
brackish. It has no outlet; it rises with the melting of the
snow, and faUs in the dry season. The plateau in which it lies
extends towards the east into the Aksai table-land, where the
Aksai stream rises, and flowing eastward, joins the Kashghar
river below Aksu. The opening to the west leads towards the
source of the Arpa, which finds its way into the Jaxartes (Sir).
When we saw it, the lake was frozen and covered with snow,
which made it difficult to distinguish between it and the nearly
level plain by which it is surrounded, and which was covered
with a white saline efflorescence.
Looking from our elevated position above the lake, there
appeared to be two ranges of mountains, — the Torugat, on a spur
of which we were standing, and the Tashrobat, on the opposite
side of the lake. Both are portions of the Tian Shan range,
which westward, like the Karakoram eastward, seems to lose
its identity, and merges into several comparatively unimportant

66" TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
minor chains, of which it is impossible to say which is the main
one. Hence there is some difficulty in defining the watershed,
and consequently the boundary between Eussia and Kashghar.
The general run of the Torugat range is from west to east ; the
peaks also decrease in height as the range approaches the pass :
the highest within a few miles of it being about 15,000 feet ;
others, away to the west, being apparently 2000 feet or more
higher. East of the pass, again, the hills are still lower, but it
was impossible to judge of their general direction, though, from
the Eussian maps, it would appear to be south-east. We had
hoped to cross the high undulating lands eastward to the Terekty
pass, thirty or thirty-five miles distant, but the officials seemed
to think we had seen enough, and we had to return to Kashghar.
Notwithstanding the intensity of the cold, Captain Trotter
carried on his special work successfully throughout the journey.
He had to take star observations, with the thermometer standing
at 10° below zero, a bitter wind blowing, and no shelter available.
To Captain Trotter belongs the distinction of being the first to
carry the scientific survey of England across that of Eussia in
the East; the road from Kashghar to the crest of the Tian
Shan being a link in the chain across Asia which is now common
to both. Many of the Kashghari servants slept out in the open by
the horses, and appeared none the worse of the exposure. We
were particularly struck with the excellent church discipline
kept up by our Muhammadan hosts, who regularly intoned the
call to prayers, and assembled outside the tents in obedience to
it, at break of day, in a temperature of 25° below zero. Our
Indian Muhammadan servants made no pretence of such extreme
piety in that severe climate.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

67

On the return journey we saw Kirghiz near Chakmak loading
camels with blocks of ice cut in the Toyan, for transport up a
side vaUey, where they were located with their flocks, their
supply of water being thus obtained till the approach of warm
weather releases the frost-bound springs. In leaving the Artush
vaUey, we observed high up in the vertical face of the ridge,
where the stream cuts its way through towards the Kashghar
plain, three excavated chambers, each with an inner apartment
behind. The only history of these excavations I could obtain
was, that some eighty years ago the Chinese Amban (Governor),
of Kashghar had a daughter so surpassingly lovely that all his
friends and neighbours wished to marry her, and his enemies
strove to steal her. The Amban idolised his daughter, and
fearing to lose her had these chambers made and sumptuously
fitted for her reception. An enemy desiring to do him the
utmost injury tried to poison the food which used to be let down
to her from the summit of the precipice ; and the Amban after
that, in suspicion of all prepared food, subsisted her on grapes.
A wasp concealed in the grapes stung the beauty in the throat,
and caused her death.

" -s-mz

KIRGHIZ SOLDIERS AND PONIES.

CHAPTEE VI.
CAPTAIN BIDDULPH'S DEPARTURE FOR MARALBASHI— HIS ACCOUNT OF JOURNEY AND
COUNTRY— FOREST— WILD CAMELS— GAZELLE— HAWKING PHEASANTS AND HARES
—MARALBASHI TOWN AND FORT-DOLAN PEOPLE— SOLDIER'S STORY— TIGERS-
TRAINED HUNTING -EAGLES — ANCIENT CITY — STAGES TO AKSU — RETURN TO
KASHGHAR— PRESENTS OF GAME— OVIS POLI— BLACK IBEX— GAZELLE— FROZEN
DRAWING STUDIES — MARAL — WILD BOAR HUNTING — MR. FORSYTH'S VISIT TO
ARTUSH — DR. STOLICZKA AND CAPTAIN TROTTER'S EXPLORATIONS — TURKISH
PROTECTORATE OF KASHGHAR— YANGI SHAHR.
Maralbashi (the stag's haunt), lying away to the east towards
Aksu, was visited by Captain Biddulph while we were away in
the Tian Shan. Captain Biddulph is the first European tra
veller in that direction, and the following is his description of
the country and journey : —
" The Ameer's permission for my going to Maralbashi hav
ing been granted, I left Yengi Shahr, Kashghar, on 31st De
cember, accompanied by Mirza Sufee, a Punjabashi, who had
orders to look after me and make all necessary arrangements.
" I reached Maralbashi in seven marches, the distance from
Kashghar being about 120 miles. The road runs for the entire
distance along the course of the Kizzfi Su or Kashghar river,
which it crosses about sixty-six miles from Yengi Shahr.
"Passing the viUages of Barin, Eandomar, Arowah, and
Yandomel, we crossed by bridges two considerable streams, the
Terbuchek and the Chokanak, flowing from the south into the
KizzU, about three miles apart, and darkness having come on
We halted for the night in the viUage of Sang.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 69
" The Punjabashi knocked at the door of the first house we
came to, and demanded quarters for the night. No difficulty
was made, though of course we were unexpected guests, and I
do not suppose any European had ever been seen in Sang, I
was shown into the principal room, where they were preparing
for the evening meal before retiring to rest. The family teapot
and soup kettle were on the fire, and a quarter of mutton hang
ing up showed they were well off for eatables. The room was
clean and neat, affording a great contrast to a house of like
pretensions in an Indian village. The walls were truly made,
with neat niches to serve as cupboards, and in front of the
fireplace was a wooden block, sunk level with the ground, to
chop wood upon. A seat was made for me by the fire, and
while the master of the house went off with the Punjabashi to
get ready another room, his wife produced melons and invited
me to partake, and without any awkwardness or shyness kept
her place by the fire, trying to keep up as much conversation
as my limited knowledge of Toorkee would permit. My small
dog, which sat up and begged, seemed to afford her great
amusement, and she pulled a small boy out of bed to look at it.
*' Leaving Sang early next morning we marched to Fyzabad,
a large market town, which gives its name to the flourishing
district around. At two mUes from Sang we crossed the Fyzabad
stream, flowing from the south into the KizzU. This and the
two streams crossed the previous day are united into one
stream, called the Yamanyar, at no great distance from where
I crossed them. Farther on we passed the villages of Kazan
Kul and Shaptul ;' a weekly market is held at the latter.
r "Beyond Fyzabad habitations became scarcer, and ceased
altogether at Yengi Awat, forty-six mUes from Kashghar. Beyond

70 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
Yengi Awat the country is covered with low bush jungle and
sand-hUls, graduaUy changing to forest, which becomes con
tinuous shortly after crossing the Kizzil Su. Between Yengi
Awat and Maralbashi the only habitations met with are robats or
post-houses, at intervals of about fifteen miles, which are erected
for the use of travellers. These are all of inferior construction,
with little accommodation, one of them only consisting of a
single room. As I took no tents with me, I used the post-
houses during the whole time of my absence from Kashghar.
" The forest, though apparently of great extent, contains no
fine timber, the only tree being the poplar (tograk) of stunted
growth ; the undergrowth consists of a bush growing to a
height of about eight feet, a thorny bramble, and camel thorn, but
there is no grass. The soil is very dry, alluvial, and covered
with a thin hard crust of soda, which crackles under foot at
every step, and in which horses sink up to their fetlocks. The
forest abounds with gazelles (Antilopa gutturosa) and hares,
but is otherwise singularly wanting in animal life. For a space
of about three-quarters of a mile on each side of the river there
are no trees, but in their stead a belt of thick high grass, like
what is known in Indian jungles as nurkut, growing to a height of
from eight to twelve feet. In this are tigers, wolves, the large
deer called by the natives " bugha " or " maral," gazeUes, foxes,
and pheasants. This treeless belt is doubtless caused by periodical
changes of the river-bed, of which there are many evidences.
The fall of the country to the eastward is little over 500 feet in
100 miles, according to aneroid readings taken daily. The
river makes frequent turns and windings, and is level with its
banks, so that a very slight flush of water would cause an over
flow. The current is not rapid, and the river is frozen so hard

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

71

in winter that loaded carts cross it without difficulty. It is
crossed in summer by a bridge, which, however, I did not see,
as I was able to save several miles by taking a short cut and
crossing on the ice in another place. It varies from 70 to 100
feet in width.
" At one of the robats I had an interesting conversation
with a traveller who was also putting up there for the night.
He was an Aksu official, and had lately come from there with a
presentation horse for the Ameer, and having delivered it was
on his way to Khoten, where his brother was a Cazee. He told
me there was a direct road from Aksu to Khoten, lying through
jungle the whole way. He had visited Turfan, and said he had
himself seen wild camels two marches to the east of it, and spoke
of them as not being very wary, but smaller than domestic ones.
I questioned him as to the existence of wild horses or asses
in the desert eastward, but he said he had never heard of any.
" At Togha Sulook, between 40 and 50 miles from Maral
bashi, I stopped for a day's shooting. The only game I got was

THE DJERAN.

one very good specimen of the gazelle, or, as the people there
call it, djeran. The buck measures 27^ inches at the shoulder,
and greatly resembles the common Indian gazeUe, except that

72 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
the horns are rather longer and curve outwards, the tips being
turned sharply inwards towards one another, making a very
handsome head.
" The next day on the march I was met by a Yuzbashi, who
had been sent out to meet me. He had brought a pair of
trained hawks with him, and as we marched we beat along,
keeping a few yards off the road, and took several hares with
them. The hawks seemed to have no trouble in holding a full-
grown one, and the hare was often taken within 30 or 40 yards
of where he was put up, even among the brambles and bushes.
The trembling of the hares when taken from the hawk was very
curious ; they seemed quite paralysed with terror, in a way I
never saw before in animals of the kind ; otherwise they were
quite uninjured. Just as we got to our halting-place for the
night, one hawk was flown at a cock pheasant, which, after a
flight of 150 yards through the high trees, dropped in some
thick brushwood ; the hawk at once took perch above him, and
we put up the pheasant again. In this way we had three
flights, the pheasant escaping at last in a large extent of
brambles, out of which we could not put him. This was in
thick forest, but the men said if both hawks had been flown
they would have killed. It was curious to see the hawk each
time perching guard over the places where the pheasant had
dropped, waiting for us, and watching every movement whUe
we beat. The flight of the pheasant, when once fairly on the
wing, though short, is so rapid that the hawk has no chance of
striking him, but by perching high above him when down he is
generally able to strike him as he rises a second time.
" Within four miles of Maralbashi the forest ceases, and the
country is covered with long grass, varied by occasional patches

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 73
of scrub and swamp, much resembling the EohUcund Terai. In
this are dotted, about small villages, with patches of cultivation
round them. The grass jungle extends over a great extent of
country, as weU as I could gather, to the north-east, south
west, and. eastward, being doubtless formed by the overflows
and changes of course of the Kizzil and Yarkund rivers. The
latter, I was informed, flows close to Aksakmaral, about 32
mUes south-west of Maralbashi.
" Maralbashi, which is also known as Burchuk and Lai
Musjid, contains about 1500 inhabitants, and is at the junction
of the road from Yarkund with the Kashghar and Aksu road.
It contains a fort and small garrison of about 200 men ; it
could, however, from its position, be easily and quickly rein
forced from Aksu, Kashghar, or Yarkund, if necessary. In the
time of the Chinese occupation it was no doubt an important
point, as they had internal rather than external troubles to
guard against.
" The fort is of the same kind as others we have seen in the
country, with earthen rampart about 30 feet thick and 25 feet
high, a low parapet forming a kind of covered way, and ditch.
It forms a square of about 170 yards, with projecting circular
bastions at the angles, three of them having square towers on
them : also a circular bastion in the centre of each face.
"The river Kizzil flows under the walls of the fort, and
during the late rebellion against the Chinese was made use of
by being dammed up and turned on to the fort to break down
the rampart. Where I crossed it on the road from Kashghar
it is 100 feet wide, level with the bank, but flows here in a
greatly diminished stream about 25 feet wide between high
banks, 20 feet below the level of the surrounding country. Its

74 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
character was so altered that it was only after repeated assur
ances from the people that I satisfied myself as to its being the
same stream.
" Close outside the fort is a palace lately built by the
Ameer, who often stays here on his way to and from Aksu.
" The natives of the district are called Dolans ; they have a
more Tartar-like cast of countenance than Yarkundees and
Kashgharees, and are said to be distinguished by their fondness
for music and singing. They are said to be descended from
prisoners brought in the fourth century of the Hejra by Haroun
Bugra Khan from Transoxiana, and forcibly settled in the
country between Maralbashi and Kuchar. In the jungle vil
lages they excavate houses out of the ground, making grass
roofs level with the surface. The term Dolan is, I believe,
applied generally to people of mixed parentage.
" The present Hakim Beg of Maralbashi, Ata Bai, has the
title of Mirakhor. He is an Andijani, about thirty-five years
of age, with especially pleasant address, and seems much liked
by the people, who all speak well of him. He was not in
Maralbashi when I first arrived, having been away for ten
months with the troops at Orumchee and Manass. Four days
after my arrival he returned with about 120 men. I was told that
during the recent campaign under the Ameer's son, a great number
of desertions had occurred in the army; upwards of 400 men, it
was said, had deserted into Eussian territory. Of the contingent
from Maralbashi four had been killed and twenty had deserted.
" In Ata Bai's absence I was received by the deputy
governor, Moolla Samsakh, who showed me every attention.
The whole of the public robat was placed at my disposal, and
aU supplies I stood in need of were furnished.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 75
" On one occasion a man forced his way into my room and
rather rudely demanded in Persian a turban as a present, simUar
to one I had given another man the day before. He told me
that he was the MooUa Aloyar, and a Cazee, and reiterated his
demand for the turban in a very impudent way. I told him
that I was not in the habit of giving turbans to people who
asked for them, and he went away as abruptly as he had
entered. I sent for the Punjabashi, and told him that I did not
like people coming into my room without invitation, and would
never give anything if I was asked for it. He said it should
not happen again, and half-an-hour afterwards I received a
message from the MooUa Samsakh, saying that I should not be
troubled again, and that the Cazee had been severely beaten
for his insolence. I was told afterwards that the punishment
had given great satisfaction in the bazaar, where Moolla Aloyar
was disliked on account of his constantly asking people for
things which they dared not refuse;
" At Maralbashi I found a Punjabee, named Gholam Khadir,
serving as a soldier. His son, a sharp lad of thirteen years of
age, was sent over to stay in the robat to interpret for my
servants. I told him I should like to see his father, who accord
ingly came over the same evening. I had a long and interest
ing conversation with him, in which he told me his history as
follows : — ' Two years ago I left Sealkote with six ponies laden
with merchandise to seU at Leh. When I arrived there I found
no sale for my goods, so I resolved to come on to Yarkund,
being advised to do so by Mr. Shaw. In crossing the Suget
pass aU my ponies perished, much snow having faUen, and I
lost everything. There was only my son, the boy you have
seen, with me, and a servant who went mad with the troubles

76 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
of the journey. Another trader helped me on to Sanju, and
from there the Hakim forwarded me on to Yarkund. I was
taken before the Dadkhwah, who was very good to me, and
gave me two hundred tangas and some clothes, and told me I
should go back to the Punjab in the spring. When I again
went before him in the spring, he told me I ought to be married,
that everybody in the country was married. I protested that I
had a wife in Sealkote, but he said that did not matter, and
sent for a Moollah, who was ordered to find me a wife, and I
was married. When all my money was gone, I went again to
the Dadkhwah, who sent me to Kashghar, where I was recog
nised by Mirza Shadee, who had seen me in Sealkote. I used
to make medicines, and give them to people at Sealkote, and
gave some to Mirza Shadee when he was there. I once gave
some to Ata Bai, the Hakim here, and cured him. He gave
me a robe and eight tangas for it. I was taken before the
Atalik, who asked me what I could do. I answered that I
doctored people, and I was sent off to this place with my son.
Guns were put into our hands, and we have been here ever
since. Four months after my arrival my wife was sent to me
here from Yarkund. My son and I get each a robe once a year,
enough to eat, and one hundred tangas between us. All
soldiers get about the same, a few get eighty to an hundred
tangas yearly. A Punjabashi gets three hundred tangas and
two robes, a Yuzbashi three hundred tangas and three robes.
Zemindars are never taken to be soldiers, but all men who can
give no account of themselves are made to serve in the ranks.
The Chinese used to take zemindars for soldiers. Two hundred
men went from here with Ata Bai to Orumchee, where there
has been much fighting. About 300 Chinese prisoners were

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 77
sent from there some months ago, and forced to become
Mussulmans. Ata -Bai is a good man, so is the Yarkund
Dadkhwah. There is much petty theft here, but no burglary ;
robbers are not daring as they are in India. The first time a
man is caught steaUng he is led aU round the bazaar and beaten,
the second time he has one ear cut off, the third time his right
hand. I have never heard of a man being hanged for stealing.
I once saw a man's throat cut in the bazaar, but that was for
murder. I have never seen a man hanged. The gaUows is
put up to frighten people. The punishment of death is only
inflicted for murder. I remember two murders while I was in
Yarkund. Everybody is married, even all the soldiers : when
one dies, his wife is given to another. All marriages are
arranged by the Moollahs. When a man wishes to get rid of
his wife, he turns her out of his house, and has by the Sharyat
to pay her ten tangas, and give her clothes. At the end of
tliree months she may marry again. The women here are very
bad, they have no shame. AU eatables, except mutton, are
very cheap. A great deal of beef and horse flesh is eaten.
Taxes on produce are paid in kind to the extent of 4 per cent.
People are constantly saying that there used to be much fun
and wine-drinking in the time of the Chinese, now there is
none. The women especiaUy are continually lamenting this.
When people were very poor they used to sell their children to
the Chinese for a yamboo (£17). If at the end of a year they
could repay the yamboo, the children were returned to them.
When you arrived in Yarkund, it was rumoured that 700 or 800
sahibs had come : that you had come in consequence of the
visit of the Eussian Embassy last year. I was in Kashghar
then and saw them. The Ameer is much pleased at your

78 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
coming. When Mr. Shaw first came he was placed in ' nuz-
zurbundee ' (under surveUlance) ; so was the sahib who came
afterwards to Yarkund : now the Ameer knows you better, and
you are aUowed to go where you like.'
" From Maralbashi I went to Charwagh, a vUlage of about
250 inhabitants, 14 miles on the Aksu road. I was especiaUy
anxious to shoot a tiger, of which there were many about, but
was unsuccessful in the sea of high grass with which the
country is covered. From footprints and skins, and judging
by what I was told, there is no doubt that the tiger here is
altogether a smaller animal than the Indian one. He seems
also to differ considerably in his habits, prowling round villages
at night, killing dogs and sheep, and behaving more like an
Indian panther than .a tiger. The people spoke of men being
killed by tigers occasionally, but it does not appear to be a
common occurrence.
" I had, however, good sport shooting gazelles and pheasants
which abounded, and I also saw the burgoots* or trained
eagles kill gazelles and foxes. I was not fortunate enough to
see them kill a wolf, though they were twice flown, but the
animals on both occasions being in thick bush jungle, and at a
great distance, the birds did not sight them. Their owners,
however, spoke of it as an ordinary occurrence. When the
jungle is not too high, they sight their prey at a great distance,
and sweep up to it without any apparent effort, however fast it
may be going. Turning suddenly when over its head, they
strike it with unerring aim. If a fox they grasp its throat with
the powerful talon and seize it round the muzzle with the other,
keeping the jaws closed with an iron grasp, so that the animal is
* The bearcoot of Atkinson.

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TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 79
powerless. From the great ease with which an eagle disposes of
a fuU-grown fox, I could see that a wolf would have no better
chance. Gazelles are seized in the same way, except those with
horns, in which case the eagle first fastens on to the loins of the
animal, and watching his opportunity transfers his grasp to the
throat, avoiding the horns. The burgoot, however, is not very
easy to manage, and requires the whole of one man's care. Its
dash and courage are great, but if flown unsuccessfully once or
twice, it will often sulk for the rest of the day. When it kiUs
it is always allowed to tear at its game for a little time ; the
men told me that if prevented doing so while its blood was up,
it would very probably attack our horses.
" I was enabled by sextant observations to fix the latitude of
Maralbashi at 39° 46' 25" N.
" Nine mUes to north-east of the . Maralbashi is a huge
black rock, apparently basaltic, with a treble peak, rising to a
height of some 2500 feet above the plain. It is very rugged
and quite inaccessible, and forms a conspicuous landmark. It is
called ' Pir Shereh Kuddum Moortaza Ali Tagh,' ' the Prophet
Ali's footstep.' At its foot on the north side is a Mazar of
great sanctity. The Aksu road runs within a mile of it, and
traveUers on catching sight of the shrine dismount and say a
prayer. "From Charwagh I was asked to come on to Tumchuk,
some miles farther on the Aksu road. As nothing had been
said about it before leaving Kashghar, I decided not to do so, and
had reason to repent my decision. On returning to Kashghar I
was told that at Tumchuk are the ruins of a very ancient stone
city. It happened that, on one occasion while shooting, I came
upon a hewn stone looking like part of an hexagonal piUar, but

80 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
though I made several inquiries of the men with me, none of
them said a word about the ruined city. I also noticed that
the jungles contained many signs showing that at one time
there had been considerable cultivation.
"The country round Maralbashi is weU. watered, and the
soil rich, and seems only to want population.
" The stages beyond Charwagh on the Aksu road were
given me as foUows by the MooUa Samsakh, who told me that
there was a robat at each stage : —

1. Chadyrkul.
2. Yakakuduk.
3. Zoidu.
4. Chilan.
5. Clmlkuduk.

6. Soi Langri.
7. Oikul.
8. Kumbash.
9. Aksu.

" I returned to Kashghar on the 23d January in five
marches from Maralbashi. The day before I left I paid a visit
to Ata Bai in the fort, and thanked him for all the civility I had
experienced, presenting him at the same time with a pair of
binoculars and a pound of English powder. He presented me
in return with a pony, and the next morning a man overtook
me on the march with a trained hawk, also sent me as a present.
" No attempt was made at any time in any way to control
or direct my movements. I received whatever suppfies I was
in need of, and was treated by all officials with the greatest
civility." Besides the daily present of bread, fruit, and sweets, sent
from the Atalik's table to mark the steady continuance of the
high favour in which we stood, a weekly one, on an extensive
scale, was always brought by our noble "Mihmandar" Ihrar
Khan Tora, when sent by the Atalik to inquire, in the most

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 81
formal and complimentary manner, after the health of the envoy
and the officers of the Mission. This weekly present used to
consist of game, large and smaU, chests of pears aU the way from
Kuchar, in the far east, famous for that fruit, bags of frozen
butter, loaves of Moscow sugar, and trays of Eussian " motto "
bon-bons. Of game there were Ovis poli and black ibex, the
"Jerun" gazeUe, the pheasant (Shaw) of the plains, and the
snow species of the hills, " chikor " or hUl partridge, hares, and
many kinds of wUd fowl.
The Ovis poli was the gem of our coUection of new and rare
animals. The foUowing is the description of it given by Dr.
Stoliczka, the naturalist to the Mission, to accompany a sketch
made by me, and sent by the Envoy to the London Zoological
Society, from Kashghar, in February 1874.
" Ovis Poli, Blyth.
" Male, in winter dress. — General colour above hoary brown,
distinctly rufescent or fawn on the upper hind neck and above
the shoulders, darker on the loins, with a dark line extending
along the ridge of taU to the tip. Head above and at the sides
a greyish-brown, darkest on the hind head, where the central
hairs are from 4 to 5 inches long, while between the shoulders
somewhat elongated hairs indicate a short mane. Middle of
upper neck hoary white, generaUy tinged with fawn ; sides of
body and the upper part of the limbs shading from brown to
white, the hair becoming more and more tipped with the latter
colour. Face, aU the lower parts, Umbs, taU, and aU the hinder
parts, extending weU above towards the loins, pure white. The
hairs on the lower neck are very much lengthened, being from
5 to 6 inches long. Ears hoary brown externaUy, almost white
M

82

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

internally. Pits in front of the eye distinct, of moderate size
and depth, and the hair round them generaUy somewhat darker
brown than the rest of the sides of the head. The nose is
slightly arched and the muzzle sloping. The hair is strong,
wiry, and very thickly set, and at the base intermixed with
scanty, very fine fleece ; the average length of the hairs on the
back is from 2 to 24 inches. The iris is brown. The horns are
subtriangular, touching each other at the base, curving gradually
with a long sweep backwards and outwards ; and after complet
ing a fuU circle, the compressed points again curve backwards and
outwards; their surface is more or less closely transversely ridged.
" The foUowing are measurements taken from a full-grown
male, though not the largest in the Mission collection : —
Inches.
" Total length from between the horns to tip of tail . 62
Length of head
Tail (including the 1 J" long hair at tip)
Distance between snout and base of ear (the
below this connecting line) .
Distance between base of ear and the eye
Distance between snout and eye
Distance from the contact of horns to snout
Breadth between the anterior angle of eyes
Length of ear in front
Height of shoulder (the hair being smoothed, beginning
from the edge of the middle of the hoof at the side) 44

eye lies

13.25 5-5
12-75 3258-5
12 6
4-75

Girth round the breast
Length of one horn along the periphery
Circumference of one horn at base
Distance between the tips

51-548 15
38

" The colour of full -grown females does not differ essentiaUy
from that of the males, except that the former have much less
white on the middle of the upper neck. The snout is sometimes
brown, sometimes almost entirely white, the dark eye-pits

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 83
becoming then particularly conspicuous. The dark ridge along
the tail is also scarcely traceable.
" In size, both sexes of Ovis poli appear to be very nearly
equal ; but the head of the female is less massive, and the horns,
as in allied species, are comparatively small : the length of horn
of one of the largest females obtained is 14 inches along the
periphery, the distance at the tips being 15 inches, and at the
base a little more than 1 inch. The horns themselves are much
compressed ; the upper anterior ridge is wanting on them ; they
curve gradually backwards and outwards towards the tip,
though they do not nearly complete even a semicircle.
" In young males, the horns at first resemble in direction and
slight curvature those of the female, but they are always thicker
at the base and distinctly triangular.
" The length of the biggest horn of male along the periphery
of curve was 56 inches, and the greatest circumference of a horn
of a male specimen at the base 18^ inches.
" Mr. Blyth, the original describer of Ovis poli, from its horns,
was justified in expecting, from their enormous size, a corre
spondingly large-bodied animal ; but, in reality, such does not
appear to exist. Although the distance between the tips of the
horns seems to be generaUy about equal to the length of the
body, and although the horns are very much larger, but not
thicker or equally massive with those of the Ovis Amnion of the
Himalayas, the body of the latter seems to be comparatively
higher. Still it is possible that the Ovis poli of the Pamir may
stand higher than the specimens described, which were obtained
from the Tian Shan range.*
* The Tian Shan wild sheep has since been described as the Ovis Karelini,
a species somewhat smaller than the true Ovis poli which frequents the
Pamirs.

64 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
" Large flocks of Ovis poli were observed on the undulating
high plateau to the south of the Chadir-Kul, where grass vege
tation is abundant. At the time the officers of the Mission
visited this ground, i.e. in the beginning of January, it was the
rutting season."
The horns of wild animals are deposited at the shrines in
Kashghar, similarly as at the temples and other places of mark
in the Himmalayahs, and at a shrine in the Artush valley
Mr. Forsyth saw a pair of Ovis poli horns which measured 61
inches. In the course of this narrative I shaU tell of a pair
measuring 65^ inches, which I obtained on the Great Pamir,
and had the pleasure of adding to the National coUections in the
British Museum.
The Tian Shan ibex merely differs from the Himmalayan
species in being darker in coat, — so dark, however, as to cause us
to designate it the " black ibex." It appears to frequent the
Tian Shan and Terek ranges. The same ibex are said to be
found in the Kuen Luen to the south-east of Yarkand. Those
I saw on the Great Pamir were of the light-coloured Himmalayan
kind. The " Jerun " gazelle has been already noticed in Captain
Biddulph's account of his Maralbashi journey. We had a tame
one at Yarkand, of which I was enabled to make many draw
ings. The game often reached us at Kashghar in a frozen state,
when by half thawing selected specimens, I was able to put
t.hem into position to be again frozen, and so fixed as studies for
the sketch book.
The "Maral," the stag of the Maralbashi and Eastern
Turkistan, appears to the ordinary eye to be the same as the
" Hungal " (stag) of Kashmir, and by all accounts it is similar

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

85

to the - Persian stag. Alish Beg, the governor of Kashghar,
presented Mr. Forsyth with a full-grown maral which had been
caught when young, and tamed to a certain extent. It stood
14 hands high at
the shoulder. Its
horns were not of
any great size ;
but of two very
fine pairs ob
tained in the city,
I show the best
in the sketch, the
bead being that
of our maral.
This stag was too
riotous to permit
of his being
brought away with the other animals collected for despatch to
India, and was returned to his original owner on our departure
from Kashghar. Of two burgut (golden eagles) sent with this
collection it was fortunate that one reached alive to confirm our
accounts of the bird being trained for sport like the hawk, as my
sketches of the hunting scenes in which they figure were some
times regarded suspiciously, as Atkinson's first description of
the sport was.
WUd hog of an unusually large size are found in the reed
thickets on the banks of the Kashghar river, and the sporting
propensities of the people are admirably shown in the spirited
way in which they hunt the wild boar there. During the
Envoy's tour in the Artush district, in the end of February,

HEAD OF THE MARAL.

86 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
the villagers at one place assembled to show this sport. They
were mounted on the strong active little horses of. the country,
and carried clubs bent at the end like hockey-sticks, with
which they strike the animal on the head tfll he is stunned,
when the death-blow is generally given with some other weapon.
As we in India in hog-hunting ride for " first spear," so do
these sportsmen ride for "first club." The trained eagle is
used in this sport : it is " flown " at the hog on the first favour
able opportunity, and generally succeeds, by its sharp and
powerful attack, in bringing it to bay, when the men close in
with their clubs. On the occasion alluded to a splendid "tusker"
was killed in this manner. But from all I heard I should say
that the wild boar of these parts is not equal in fighting spirit
to his brother of Bengal.
Mr. Forsyth and the main portion of the Mission officers
went out on the 14 th of February for a tour in the Artush
district, Captain Biddulph and myself remaining in Kashghar.
The Envoy, with Dr. Bellew and Captain Chapman, returned
on the 26th, leaving Dr. Stoliczka and Captain Trotter to
pursue their explorations towards Uch Turfan, which they did
most successfuUy, reaching as far as the Belosti pass. Captain
Trotter in his " Notes on Eecent Exploration in Central Asia,"
published in last September number of the Geographical Maga
zine, says of this journey, that it led to the discovery that " that
portion of the Tian Shan mountains lying to the north and
north-east of Kashghar, marked on our maps as ' the Syrt,' and
hitherto represented as a high table-land rising immediately
above the plains of Turkistan, in reality consists of a series of
parallel mountain ranges, running as a rule from west to east,
each range increasing gradually in height from the lowest ridge

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 87
on the south to the main ridge on the north — each range also
decreasing in height as it runs eastward. Between these ranges,
and running parallel to them, are extensive level plains, at first
very little higher than the plateau of Eastern Turkistan, but also
successively rising higher and higher towards the north, while
at the same time they slope down towards the east ; thus, the
Tughamati plain, about 45 miles north of Kashghar, is higher
by 2000 feet ; while the Jai Tupa plain, about the same dis
tance east of the Tughamati plain (of which in all probabUity
it is the continuation) is only about 1000 feet higher than
Kashghar. These large plains have generally much grass and
fuel, though but little water. At one of our camps, which was
under snow, the Kirghiz who were encamped there told me that
it was only in mid-winter they could keep their flocks at that
particular place, as the snow then lying on the ground served
as a substitute for water, which was not obtainable at any other
season of the year."
At the festival of the " Kurban " (the sacrifice) on the 28th
of January, the Atalik publicly announced the Sultan's protecto
rate of Kashghar, and assumed the title of " Amir," conferred on
him by that sovereign. The Sultan's name was ordered to be
used for the future in the " Khutba " or prayer for the reigning
sovereign at all the mosques, and coin was struck bearing the
name of " Abdul Aziz Khan," and purporting to be issued from
the mint of "the protected State of Kashghar." Gold tiUas
(value about eleven shillings) of the new coinage were dis
tributed in largesse that day by the Amir to his troops and
attendants. The Yangi-Shuhr or fort residence of the Amir at Kashghar
encloses quite a smaU town, besides accommodating a very

88 TRAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
large guard and a numerous body of attendants. The daily
traffic between it and the city, five miles off, is considerable.
Covered carts passed to and fro continually carrying passengers,
and there was a regular " stand " of these vehicles near the gate.
Some of them were " reserved " for women, who appeared to go
about and visit a great deal. The daily traffic and passing of
people was an interesting scene, and I used to walk on the roof
of the Elchi-khana, and take advantage of the opportunity to
sketch whatever appeared remarkable.

HUNTJT.G EAGLE SEIZING A FOX.

CHAPTEE VIL
THE ARMY— ARTILLERY — JEMADAR DADKHWAH — INFANTRY — TAIFURCHIS — CHINESE
CORPS AT DRILL — ARMY SYSTEM— KASHGHARIS — FOOD SUPPLY— TRANSPORT —
ANNUAL VISIT OF GOVERNORS TO THE CAPITAL— KHOTEN REVENUE— JADE-
CHINA TEA TRADE— POLITICAL SYSTEM— SEVERITY OF THE LAWS— SHEEP AND
CATTLE STEALING — THE AMIR'S PERSONAL GOVERNMENT — MISSION LEAVES
KASHGHAR— ARRIVES AT YANGI HISSAR— YAKUB, THE POLISH DESERTER.
We had opportunities during our stay at Kashghar of seeing
the "regular forces" there, which doubtlessly weU represented
the character and condition of the Amir's army distributed
throughout his territory, to Khoten on the south and Turfan
on the east. The army is divided into artUlery, Taifurchis,
and infantry. There is no cavalry in our acceptation of the
term; a great proportion of the infantry is mounted, but
they dismount to use their arms, and the use of the sword on
horseback is not understood or ever practised. On one occasion,
during our stay at the capital, a display of " tent-pegging " and
turnip slicing, with spear and sabre, by the expert troopers of
our guide corps escort showed the Andijanis and Kashgaris how
far behind their warlike neighbours they are in that respect.
Artillery is Uttle understood by the Uzbegs, though they
have an immense respect for that arm. Hindustanis and
Affghans are much sought after as artillerymen, some of those
now serving having been in our Indian army, or that of the
Maharajah of Kashmir, and made their way to Kashghar as a
place that offered many advantages to adventurous spirits, and
N

90

TRAVELS IN TURKISTAN.

perhaps, in some instances, a refuge from that steadily pursuing
punishment which year after year overtakes the notorious
murderers of 1857. The chief artiUery officer is Nubbi Buksh,
a native of Sealkote in the Punjab
and a bookbinder by trade, who was
trained as a gunner in the Sikh
Durbar force under Sher Sing and
Tej Sing. He was
at Peshawur with
Captain Bowie and
the other British officers
when the Punjab cam
paign of 1848-49 took
place, and left India shortly after
wards to seek his fortune in Central
Asia. He made his way through
Kashmir and Ladak to the Yar
kand territory, entering it by
the KUian pass, where he was de
tained for three months by the
[Chinese, then holding Eastern Turki
stan. EventuaUy he passed on
to Khokand, and took service
JIGIT SOLDIER, KASHGHAR ARMY. y^fa ^q (J^gf Qf ^^ khanate.
He served there for about ten years, and was present in the
action with the Eussians when his master, Alum Kul, the
regent, was mortally wounded. While in Khokand he became
acquainted with Muhammad Yakub Khan, the present ruler of
Kashghar; and. after the fall of Tashkend in 1865, he made his
way over the Terek pass with 4000 men and joined the Atalik's

^jgV A '^jfr, ^f&MZOj*-

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

91

standard. Nubbi Buksh is held in high esteem by the Amir as
a successful commander who has served him faithfully and well.
He is known as the " Jemadar Dadkhwah," and has the reputa
tion of being kind to
his countrymen, and
assisting them when
in need. He is the
" Affghan of gigantic
stature " noticed by
the Eussian officers composing
the mission sent in 1872 to con
clude the existing treaty be
tween Eussia and Kashghar. The
" Jemadar Dadkhwah's " special
command consists of a regiment of
comparatively well-armed infantry, I
with field guns dragged by horses
harnessed unicorn-fashion, placed
between the companies. He driUed \
all together before us ; the move- 1
ments were made very slowly, and
tolerably precisely on the
pattern of thirty years ago
then foUowed in the Sikh
army. His words of com
mand were apparently intended for English, and every move
ment was accompanied by vigorous maxching bugle music.
Two other similar corps are drUled professedly after the
Eussian and Turkish systems. Nubbi Buksh showed us some
fair shell-practice with a 12-pounder howitzer and a 10-inch

JIGIT SOLDIER, KASHGHAR ARMY.

92 TRAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
mortar, at a distance of 1000 yards. He seemed glad to see us,
and to talk of the English officers he had seen at Peshawur.
He had almost forgotten the Hindustani language, and our con
versation with him was chiefly carried on in Persian.
The infantry may be divided into two classes, viz. Jigits
and Sarbaz, the proportion being about three-fourths of the
former to one of the latter. The Jigits may be described as
mounted infantry, every man having a horse which carries all
his belongings. They are able to make long and rapid marches,
and keep up a daily average of thirty miles for a great distance.
In action they dismount to fire, their horses being disposed of
in rear, but there is little driU or system among them. The
Sarbaz have no horses ; as a rule they are better armed and
drilled ; they are, moreover, kept together in regularly-appointed
barracks, and thus subjected to superior discipline. The infantry
is distributed in small corps numbering from 200 to 500 men,
according to the estimation in which the commanders are held.
The firearms are of every kind and bore; matchlocks, fitted
with a forked rest projecting beyond the muzzle when closed,
Kashmir-made guns, old European sporting guns and rifles, and
well executed imitations manufactured in the workshops of
Kashghar, Aksu, and Yarkand. The flint-lock is never seen
either with gun or pistol. Some American "Spencer"
repeating rifles were taken by the Amir's envoy from Con
stantinople in 1873, and these, I imagine, are the "breech-
loading weapons" aUuded to in a late rumour as forming
the armament of a force despatched from Kashghar to aid
in repelling the reported Chinese advance from Hami and
Barkul. Target-shooting is* much practised. Every town
where there is a garrison has a number of musketry butts out-

CHINESE TAIFURCHIS -KASHGHAR ARIVIY.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 93
side the gates; and during the whole time of our stay at
Kashghar, target practice was going on four times a week ; it is
not, however, conducted on any system, matchlocks, rifles, and
double-barrelled guns being all used at the same range together.
Lead, sulphur, and saltpetre are very plentiful; the powder
made is good, and the dry nature of the climate is favourable to
its preserving its quality long.
The Taifurchis are men armed and drUled on Chinese mUi
tary principles ; those in the Amir's service are mostly Chinese
and Tunganis. The " Taifu " is a rude sort of wall-piece about
six feet long, mounted with a stock ; some are used with a
matchlock and trigger, others with a priming vent and the old
portfire "linstock." It carries a ball varying from one and a
half to three ounces, and is managed by four men, two of whom
support the stock and muzzle while being fired. They make
good practice at 250 yards.
The Chinese Taifurchi corps at Kashghar was paraded for our
inspection. About 1200 men were present, divided into com
panies of ten "taifus" each, accompanied by Andijani standard
and colour bearers. There was also a body of spearmen and
Kalmak archers with about thirty swordsmen dressed up as
tigers, who acted as skirmishers. The " tigers " had large gro
tesquely painted shields, with short matchlocks fastened across
them inside. The movements of each company were directed
by fuglemen, and they worked with great precision and
rapidity, forming line and column, changing front, firing
independently and in volleys, and finally "marching past,"
the whole being directed by a Chinese commander (the Khu-
'Dalai) by means of flag signals and beat of drum, forming
altogether an interesting sight, and showing an immense

94

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

aptitude for driU on the part of the men. The "tigers" went
through their old Chinese drill of " terrifying appearances " by
" tumbling " movements, rolling over and over, advancing firing
from behind their shields,
and forming themselves
into tortoise-like masses
to "receive cavalry." The
Kalmaks had bows fully
five feet long with arrows
forty inches

in length, thirty of which
they carried in quivers
slung on the back as
shown in the sketch.
The Amir keeps the
management of the army
entirely in his own hands.
The decimal division of
command is observed,
the ranks being those of
commanders of ten, fifty,
one hun

dred, and
five hun
dred, stop
ping short

KALMAK ARCHER, KASHGHAR ARMY.
of "Ming-bashi" (head of 1000), though there is " Lashkar-
bashi" (head of an army). A great mixture of nationalities is
found amongst the soldiers, consisting of natives of the country,
Andijanis, Kashmiris, Hindustanis, Affghans, Kunjutis, Wakhis,

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 95
Badakhshis, pure Chinese, Tunganis, and Kalmaks. Kirghiz
are extensively employed in the frontier militia.
The Kashgharis (by whom I mean the inhabitants of the
country extending south- Hr
east), though by nature I __^_^Im
hardy ancl remarkably ^^S^^/mlU
able-bodied, are unwar- I j'^^M l Mm
like, and much averse to j^ Im
military service. The I tm
Andijanis, in- ^^s>-^ «fflA
eluding aU the natives oi\ Jm JlfiJi|H
Khokand, are of a war- \ M '* m I iff
like spirit, and form the n*. fi~lM
dominant race in Kash- I |p ~^>_
ghar. Kashmiris (those / i^M'MM m
in the Amir's army are / J|RHPc:>1'
principally Hindu apos- 1 / i^wtKllli
tates), Hindustanis, and I / mm m |Bwm '
Affghans are much valued /
as soldiers, and are distri
buted in small par- :.ss£gj|g^5 ^^•^•apwHLy ,_,-_g|E|pr_
ties among the i^^^^^^^^z^^^^^^^^^^^^^
various corps and
garrisons The kalmak archer, kashghar army.
Chinese, Tunganis, and Kalmaks, are chiefly prisoners of war,
who had their lives spared on consenting to become Muham-
madans and serve in the ranks. The pay is small, but is in
addition to food and clothing furnished by the State. Desertion
is severely punished.
Food is wonderfully plentiful and cheap throughout the

.96 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
country. At Aksu a sheep sells for two shiUings, and at
Yarkand for about four and sixpence. The sheep there are
heavy and well fed, very unlike the smaU, spare animals sold at
similarly low rates in India. Wheaten flour sells at eighty
pounds for two shillings, and Indian corn or maize at forty
pounds for sixpence, while large tracts of fertile land lie uncul
tivated for want of population.
Horses, camels, donkeys, and oxen exist in great numbers.
The horses of the country are powerful, hardy, and enduring,
averaging fourteen hands in height, and much resembling Welsh
ponies in appearance. They carry a load of 250 pounds with
ease ; the best are bred by the Kalmaks near Karashahr ; the
average price at Kashghar is £4 : 10s. The camels are of the
double-humped species, powerful animals, carrying a 480 pounds
load, and capable of standing great extremes of heat and cold.
Khoten produces the best and most of these useful animals.
The donkeys ofthe country carry a load of 150 pounds, and are
very extensively used in transport between the towns. Carts
are also freely used in the traffic of the country ; they are gene
raUy drawn by four horses, carry 1800 pounds weight, and
travel at a rate of three miles an hour on the unmetalled road.
Beasts of burden abound to that extent that foot traveUers are
rarely seen ; every one rides on camel or horse, ox or ass.
Indian corn, chopped straw, and dry or green Lucerne grass,
according to the season, form the food of aU these animals.
Lucerne grass grows most luxuriantly, three crops being
obtained in one season off the same field, and the same plants
produce for three years. Altogether the food supply is so
abundant that a starved animal is never seen. WhUe noticing
this, also I observed that a corpulent man was never seen. We

% t T.E.GO/iO'ON-

ROAD SCEN E - KASHGHAR.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 97
must suppose that the uncertainties and worries of life under
an absolute despotism are against obesity.
About the end of our stay at Kashghar the distant governors
began to arrive, according to custom, with the annual imperial
revenue and offerings from their provinces, which they always
present in person when peace prevails. Hyder Beg, the Hakim
of Guma, arrived first, and was foUowed by Niaz Beg of Khoten,
who led in a caravan of 450 camels laden with carpets, sUks,
cottons, felts, tents, metal dishes, and other local manufactures ;
two "arabas" (carts) each carrying 1500 jings (equal to about
1800 pounds) of gold and silver ; two similar cart-loads of " su-
tash" (superior jade); 150 led horses, and 500 donkeys laden
with copper coin other than that of Khoten, calculated to repre
sent about Es. 40,000 or £4000.
The jade is taken by merchants to Kuldja, there to be
bartered for tea, and it thence finds its way to China. The
rebellion and revolution by which Eastern Turkistan was lost
to China caused an entire stoppage of aU trade between the two
countries, but latterly it has been revived by the Nogai and
other Eussian merchants trading from Almati as a centre with
Kashghar and Kuldja (Hi). Thus jade is now suppfied to meet
the continued Chinese demand, and Kashghar gets cheap China
black tea, which is largely consumed there. Shaw mentions the
great increase in the price of China tea at Kashghar during his
stay there in 1868-69, from what it was during the Chinese
rule; but the price has fallen considerably since, and in the
winter of 1873-74 China black tea from Kuldja was selling there
at two shillings and twopence per pound. Indian tea was then
for the first time introduced to the Kashghar market by a
Hindustani trader, but I did not hear with what result. The
0

98 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
mass of the people require a cheap article, and now that the
China market is made to supply them through Eussian means,
the Indian traders must be satisfied in the future with less great
profit than they have been in the habit of getting. With a
shorter and easier route than that now in use, they could yet
successfuUy compete with the Almati merchants, by supplying
good Indian black tea instead of the expensive green kind which
they at present carry to the Yarkand market.
The Hakim of Khoten was to be foUowed by the Dadkhwah
of Yarkand, whose brother, Ishak Jan, preceded him with a
preliminary present of nine (the lucky number) of everything ;
but the approaching departure of our Mission in the direction of
his province caused the visit to be postponed.
I have already alluded to the Amir's Mirzas or secretaries
appointed to reside at the local capitals and send direct to him
reports of all occurrences and rumours. By means of these
and the secret police the Amir keeps himself acquainted with
all that is said or done, true or false, and is fully prepared for
the discussion of local affairs with the governors, when they
appear annually before him. There seems to be no system of
accounts : the local administration pays its own expenses, civil
and military, and contributes to the imperial treasury. Increase
of this contribution is of course understood to carry with it rise
in the royal favour, and continuance in power, if it comes
unaccompanied by weU-founded complaints of oppression or
excessive taxation. The political system may be said to be that
of ancient Persia, which is almost always foUowed in the East.
Snow feU twice only, during our winter at Kashghar : once
in the end of February, when it hardly covered the ground,
and again on the 12th of March, when it lay to the depth of a

THE YANGI SHAHR- KASHGHAR FROM THE ROOF OF THE EMBASSY QUARTERS LOOKING S -THE KIZILART MOUNTAINS IN THE DISTANCE.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 99
foot. Up to the latter time the atmosphere had never been
quite clear all round : the haze peculiar to Eastern Turkistan
always obstructed any complete view of the surrounding moun
tains. But after the second snowstorm the air was clear, and
we had a glorious panoramic view, extendmg from the Tagharma
peak in the south, round by the Kizil Art, Alai and Terek ranges
towards the west, to the Tian Shan in the north, and dying
away towards Uch Turfan in the far east.
The stern application of severe law, doubtlessly very neces
sary to put down the violence and disorder which must have
grown up in the country after years of internal war, has resulted
in a security to life and property probably unequalled for ages
past in a purely Eastern state. Crime accordingly is rare. We
only heard of one execution during our stay at Kashghar — that
of a man for the murder of a boy, whom he killed with the view
of removing the evidence against him of the theft of a goat.
Ordinary theft is no longer punished with the loss of a hand,
but sheep and cattle stealing is still so punished, with the object
of giving greater protection to property, the nature of which
exposes it to increased risks. I heard of a case of horse-stealing
at Kashghar, in which four men were punished with the loss of
a hand each, for the theft of a horse ; one being the thief, the
second and third the buyer and seller, proved to have been
aware of the animal being stolen property, and the fourth, a
witness convicted of perjury. The last-mentioned came at once
to the Mission hospital (having heard of the very skUful surgeon
there), carrying his severed hand, and asked to have it put on
again ! Dr. BeUew was away from Kashghar at the time, and
his Hindustani assistant reported the matter to me, and dressed
the arm, after which the poor wretch went away taking the

100 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
hand with him. I have no doubt that he departed beUeving
that had the famous English Hakim (physician) himself been
there his hand would have been restored as the other. Dr.
BeUew was well known wherever the Mission went for kind and
successful treatment of the many medical cases brought to him.
We had our final interview with the Amir on the 16th
March, previous to our departure the foUowing day. We were
his honoured guests from first to last whUe within his territory,
and were everywhere weU received by his people. At one of
our previous interviews, on Mr. Forsyth mentioning the good
services rendered to us by the Mihmandar Ihrar Khan Tora,
and the Dadkhwah of Kashghar, Alish Beg, the Amir said in
reply, " Every one is ready to serve my guests, be he Tora or
Khoja, Dadkhwah or MuUa " (prince or priest, ruler or scribe).
Whatever the severities he practised when striving for power,
or the means he took to secure and strengthen his supremacy, it
seems certain that now his rule is good, though stern. He is
about fifty -five years of age, and in fuU vigour of mind and
body. He exercises a very watchful care over aU the affairs of
his kingdom, and appears determined to keep and hold, by his
individual energy, what he has gained by his own boldness of
action, superior ability, and military skill. The fatalist's creed
is not his. He does not give himself up to pleasure and
indolence, and say, as many Orientals under simUar circum
stances would, " God gave me the country, and if He wishes
me to keep it He will keep it for me." Muhammad Yakub
shows by his energetic and vigorous personal government
that this is not his way of thinking. He works for beneficial
results, and for continuing good from his own labours. With a
settled succession and a firm rule such as he has established, the

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 101
tranquillity of Eastern Turkistan is secure, and its prosperity
certain. The Mission left Kashghar on the 17th March, the envoy
being saluted with artillery simUarly as on arrival. Synd Yakub
Khan Tora accompanied us part of the way. All those who
had been about us seemed sorry to see us go ; they had aU
learnt to like us; we never had any trouble with them, and
gave them none. The roads were in a very different state from
that in which we found them on the way up in December.
Now they were deep with mud and melting snow, the effect of
the snow-storm of the 12th. Our old friend, Khul Muhammad,
the Pansad-bashi in command of the Yangi-Hissar fort, met us
some distance off with a repast as before. The Governor received
us near the town, and the troops were drawn up outside the fort
as we passed to the same quarters which we occupied on the
journey up.
Shortly after our arrival at Kashghar when out for an after
noon ride, we were joined by a man, who, entering into
conversation, offered to show us shooting in the neighbourhood.
We spoke in Persian, but once or twice I thought he used the
word " Yes " in reply to questions and remarks. He had light
hair and a fair complexion. I began to suspect him to be
European, and noticing his poor circumstances, I offered him
service in our baggage train, for which a few men were then
wanted. He expressed his readiness to take service, and made
his appearance the next day to engage in it ; but on Mirza
Yakub, the official in direct charge of all about the embassy,
hearing the matter, he had the man removed, saying that he
was a Dah-bashi (commander of ten) in the Amir's service, and
could not be allowed to lower himself to menial service. Yakub,

102 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
for that was this waif's name, showed again one day with a
burgut (eagle) for sale, on which occasion I took his likeness.
On the day of our departure he was among the crowd at the
gateway, and being in want of a man to ride one of the ponies
in an ambulance for a sick trooper of the escort, he volunteered
to accompany us for the work. He mounted and came away
without any further preparation. While I was sketching at
Yangi-Hissar on the 20th, he and others came about me, and
when I had finished they asked me to show the other drawings
in the book. I showed what I had done of Khul Muhammad,
to see if any would recognise him. Yakub, looking over my
shoulder, read slowly what I had written under the sketch, ren
dering " the Pansad in command " as " Pansad komadan." I
at once turned round, and said to him in English and Persian,
" You are English," on which he covered his face with both
hands, saying laughingly in Turki, "No, no." He was again
removed as before, but knowing that I was to leave for Wakhan
the following day he contrived to show himself as I passed the
tent of the Yuzbashi, who had taken him in charge, and made
a signal of good-bye.
Yakub stated that he was a Nogai Tartar, and spoke of
wounds he had received in action, but gave no further account
of himself. He lived on charity at a shrine in the neighbour
hood of Kashghar, and had a wife and famUy there. M.
Berzenczey, the Hungarian traveller, who reached Kashghar
from Almati and Narin after we left, told me at Leh, where we
met some months after, that Yakub was a Polish deserter from
the Eussian service.

CHAPTER VIII.
DEPARTURE FOR SIRIKOL - CHINESE FORT - KIRGHIZ — SEVERE WINTER WEATHER —
"STRIKE" OP KASHGHARI ATTENDANTS— KIRGHIZ YUZBASHI— KASKASTJ PASS—
CHIHIL GUMBAZ-TORUT PASS— TANGI TAR— CHICH1KLIK PASS— REACH SIRIKOL
VALLEY-TASHKURGAN— EXTENT OP VALLEY— CAPTURE OP SIRIKOL— DEPORT
ATION AND RETURN OP INHABITANTS — ORIGIN OP THE PEOPLE — OLD TASH
KURGAN — CULTIVATION — ANIMALS, DOMESTIC AND WILD — CLIMATE — SOURCE
AND NAMES OF RIVER— TAGHDUNGBASH PAMIR AND KIRGHIZ— ROAD TO KUNJUT
—SLAVE'S STORY— ATALIK'S FORT— TAGHARMA AND KIZIL ART PLAINS— GREAT
AND LITTLE KARAKUL LAKES— MEANING OP " SIRIKOL. "
Dr. Stoliczka, Captains Biddulph and Trotter, and myself, left
Yangi-Hissar for Sirikol and Wakhan on the 21st March. In
cluding ourselves, our party numbered forty-one, with fifty-
eight riding and baggage horses. We were accompanied by
Yuzbashi Eustum and five Kashghari soldiers, who, with our
own five sepoys of the Punjab Frontier Guide Corps, formed
our escort to Wakhan and back. We were preceded by Eesai-
dar Muhammad Afzal Khan, who left the previous day with a
letter to Mir Futteh Ali Shah, the ruler of Wakhan, informing
him of our proposed visit. Muhammad Afzal- reached Kila
Panja on the 2d April, and rendered admirable service in making
preparations there for our arrival.
Our first day's journey was to Egiz-yar, a large viUage on
the verge of the plain, and the last in the inhabited country
towards the hiUs. The road lay in a south-westerly direction,
passing by several flourishing viUages amidst extensive cultiva
tion. Six miles beyond Egiz-yar the road enters the hUls along

104

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

the course of a feeder of the Yangi-Hissar river. At this point
the passage frorn Sirikol to the plains is defended by an old
Chinese fort situated on the left bank of the stream, with high
loopholed walls extending up the hills on both sides of the
narrow valley mouth. The
plain preserves its even surface
right up to the high ranges
and ridges which stand out
and rise from it, without any
undulating or broken ground
intervening. The appearance
thus presented is strikingly
like that of high bold head
lands rising from the sea. A
small fortified work, three
mUes farther up the stream,
commands a path which there
branches off to Kashghar, vid
Opal. Small parties of troops
are stationed at both of these
posts. Kirghiz compose the popu
lation (a very
scanty one) be
tween the plains
and Sirikol. They
live almost en
tirely by their flocks and herds, only attempting a little scattered
cultivation in the lower valleys. They were kind and attentive
to us throughout the journey. We always found their felt tents

<^''4^4^

KIRGHIZ IN WINTER DRESS.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 105
prepared for our accommodation at each halting-place, till within
two days of Tashkurgan, when we entered the inhabited part
of the Sirikol valley. The Khirgiz tents, having roof openmgs,
admit of fires inside, and were thus infinitely more comfortable
than our own in the severe cold then prevaUing.
The signs of approaching spring were showing when we left
Yangi-Hissar, but we found ourselves back almost in the depth
of mid-winter immediately we entered the hills. The streams
were nearly all frozen, and snow lay everywhere, whUe fresh
falls were frequent, the whole way to Wakhan and during our
stay there. The snowfall in those regions generally takes place
in February and March, and it lies tiU April and May. We
started on our journey at almost the most unfavourable time of
the year for exploration on the great Pamir highlands, but as it was
a matter of no choice, and of the work being done then or pro
bably never by us, advantage was taken of the only opportunity
offered. The Turki baggage drivers, whom we engaged at
Kashghar for service with our transport train, objected strongly
to a return to winter weather, and on the third day " struck "
work and refused to proceed. During all our journeys and stay
in Eastern Turkistan, we were always treated and known as the
Amir's " guests," and an allusion made to the Yuzbashi regard
ing the inconvenience that would result to the " guests " from
these men being aUowed to leave, had the effect of bringing
about an arrangement by which they were induced to remain.
These same men, fourteen days afterwards, on reaching Sar
hadd, and finding the weather becoming worse instead of better
as expected, left the baggage ponies and declared their de
termination to return with the Sirikolis, then going back to
Tashkurgan ; but the Yuzbashi Eustum succeeded in impressing
p

106 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
upon the leaders so forcibly the necessity of continuing with our
party as long as he did, that we had no further trouble with
them. It was very different with the natives of India who
accompanied us throughout that trying journey. They bore
the intense cold and hard work with remarkable endurance and
courage. We foUowed the Yangi-Hissar tributary stream by a fair
road up to the Kaskasu pass (12,850 feet), which we crossed on
the fourth day. Snow and ice made the crossing of it (which
is otherwise easy) extremely difficult. Our baggage ponies
managed to clamber laboriously up the icy ascent, but the deep
fresh snow at the descent necessitated their relief by yaks,
which were furnished by the friendly Kirghiz. Our party was
joined here by Hyat Muhammad, a Kirghiz Yuzbashi, in mili
tary command of the Kirghiz in the Sirikol district, and in
direct charge of the roads leading to Yarkand and Yangi-Hissar.
He professed to be a true Kirghiz, but from his regular features
and full beard, great height and muscular appearance, was very
unlike one of that people. He more resembled the Kipchaks,
who form the link between the nomad and non-nomad inhabit
ants of Turkistan. Hayat Muhammad gave much valuable
information, which we had afterwards many opportunities of
testing and confirming, by inquiring from Sirikolis, Wakhis,
and Kirghiz. He accompanied us to Tashkurgan, and again
joined us there on the return journey.
For about thirty miles from the plains on the road to Sirikol
the hills are bold and precipitous, rising abruptly from the
valleys. Poplar and willow trees, and grass, grow by the
streams, but the hill-sides are almost wholly devoid of vegeta
tion. Beyond that distance the hills become sloping and

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 107
rounded, and in summer are covered with excellent pasture,
affording extensive grazing for the flocks ofthe roving Kirghiz.
The descent from the Karkasu pass is to Chihil Gumbaz
(forty domes), where we expected from the name to find some
interesting ruins. We were also encouraged to expect this from
the place being sometimes spoken of as Chihil Situn (forty pil
lars), and the combined mention of dome and pillar naturally
led to the idea of a building more remarkable than any yet seen
by us in Eastern Turkistan. We found, however, only one or
two small clay-brick domed Kirghiz tombs in a ruined state,
and learnt that the name of the place was derived from forty
such having at one time existed there. A road branches off
from this point to Yarkand, distant 110 miles, passing down the
Charling vaUey and stream, and bearing about due east. In the
time of the Chinese occupation this passage was watched by an
outpost. The streams from the southern side of the Kaskasu
pass and the eastern of the Torut unite here and form the Char-
ling, which flows into the Yarkand river.
The fifth day's journey took us over the Torut pass (13,330
feet), which, with the hUls all about, had an almost unbroken
covering of deep snow. We saw a great many snow-pheasants
on this pass. WiUow and poplars are plentiful in the valleys
below, and give an abundant supply of firewood. Cultivation
on a small scale is carried on at Bas Eobat, the halting-place
between the Torut and Chichiklik passes. The streams from
these unite at Bas Eobat, and flow in a south-easterly direction
into the Yarkand river.
We proceeded on the sixth day to the foot of a great ele
vated slope leading to the Chichiklik pass, plain, and lake
(14,480 feet). Two or three mUes of this day's march lay

108 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
through the " Tangi Tar " (narrow way), over about the worst
bit of road we met with throughout the journey. The Tangi Tar
is a very narrow defile, with a stream rushing over boulders
and fallen blocks of rock flowing through it, and occupying the
roadway to such an extent that in many places its bed is the
only available passage. Holes cut in the wall-like sides of the
rocky banks, at one particularly confined part, show that in
former times the passage was by means of a supported stage-
way above the water. The attendant Kirghiz also mentioned
this. There are several hot springs in this gorge, temperature
about 116°, and there are many at the Yambulak (hot spring)
pass in its immediate vicinity. Birch, wiUow, and gigantic
juniper grow plentifully here. As the season advances, the
Tangi Tar and Shindi defiles become impassable, by the streams
which flow through them to the east and south from the Chi
chiklik slopes swelling from the melting of the snow, and then
the road by the higher Yambulak and Kok Moniok passes is fol
lowed. Both of these passes lead down to the Chichiklik plain
and small lake, which lie between them in a loop formed by the
ranges which they traverse.
The snow lay deep and heavy on the Chichiklik slope, and
our horses, stiffened with their hard struggle the previous day
over the sharp rocks and through the half-frozen torrent of the
Tangi Tar, had a toilsome pull up it, followed by a very
troublesome descent through the stony Shindi ravine leading to
the Yarkand or Sirikol river, which we reached on the 28th.
We here came upon the first Sirikoli vUlage and cultivation. I .
had no difficulty in conversing with the people, all appearing to
have a good knowledge of Persian, which was our medium of
communication. From this we travelled twelve miles in a

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 109
westerly direction up the open banks of the Sirikol river to the
western descent from the Kok Moniok pass and the junction of
the Tagharma stream, at which point the main river, flowing
from the south, makes a sharp bend to the east. The open
valley of Sirikol begins here, and extends south for a very con
siderable distance towards the Kunjut mountain range. We
encamped on the 29th in the open valley, at a small military
post about four miles from the fort (Tashkurgan), where we
were met by some of the Kashghari governor's people, sent to
welcome us in his name to Sirikol. We reached Tashkurgan
the following day, the 30th, and were weU received and hospi
tably entertained by the governor, Hussun Shah, who came out
some distance to meet us. He was accompanied by a mounted
guard, remarkably well appointed, and neatly dressed. Hussun
Shah himself we remarked to be almost the best dressed and
equipped officer we had seen in the Atalik's service. He has
the title of Toksabai (Chief of the Standard). We estimated
Tashkurgan to be 124 miles by road from Yangi-Hissar, in a
general south-easterly direction.
The Sirikol valley is 10,250 feet above the sea. It extends
eight miles north of Tashkurgan, to the bend of the river east,
and appears to stretch far away south. The average breadth is
about three miles. Cultivation is confined chiefly to the western
slopes, and is the work entirely of its Tajik inhabitants, who
occupy a length of about 1 5 miles of the valley above and below
the fort. The level part, through which the river flows, is used
as a pasture- ground, and affords rich and abundant grazing.
The houses are built of stone and mud, and are all coUected in
viUages and hamlets, none being scattered over the cultivated
land as in Kashghar and Yarkand. Most of the viUageswe

110

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

SIRIKOL VALLEY — LOOKING SOUTH.

saw were in a miserable state, the houses having faUen greatly
to ruin after the late total deportation of the inhabitants to
Kashghar. During the Chinese occupation of Eastern Turkistan,
Sirikol was ruled by a hereditary chief of its own, who, how
ever, professed allegiance to that power. A visit was made to
Yarkand every second or third year, to pay a nominal tribute
and receive valuable presents, including gold and silver. The
money thus given represented a yearly payment of fourteen
"yambus" (a little over £200), which was regarded as a subsidy
for the military protection of the frontier and the road towards
Badakhshan. The Atalik, in the early years of his rule, had too much in the
way of more important conquest to occupy him in the east, to
permit of attention being paid to minor matters in the west, and
Sirikol, under its chief Alif Beg, escaped notice tiU 1868. Alif
Beg succeeded his father Babash Beg in 1865. The eldest son,

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. Ill
Abul-Assam, having some defect of speech and weakness of
inteUect, was set aside in the succession in favour of the second,
Alif Beg. The Atalik, in ignorance of this, summoned the
eldest son to make his submission and acknowledge fealty.
Abul-Assam obeyed the command, and presented himself before
the Atalik at Turfan. On the mistake being discovered, Alif
Beg was summoned without the elder brother being permitted
to return. The detention of his brother so alarmed Alif Beg,
that he ignored the order and remained in Sirikol, fearing to trust
himself in the hands of the then dreaded Atalik. In the end of
1868 troops were sent to enforce the neglected summons, and
Alif Beg, on their approach, fled to Wakhan without attempt
ing resistance. Abul-Assam was given rank and employment
in the Atalik's army, and also a residence at Aksu, where
he now lives. Alif Beg found an asylum with Futteh Ali Shah,
the Mir of Wakhan, a hill chief of characteristic independence
and generosity, who, to use his own words to me, considered it
" shameful to refuse bread and shelter to the unfortunate who
are driven into exile by cruel fate."
The Sirikol people were said to be greatly attached to Alif
Beg, and the Atalik, fearing insurrection from this cause, if not
from hatred of the change to a Suni rule, they being Shiahs,
deported the whole population to Kashghar in 1870. They
were sent back to their native country after two years' exile.
There are now about 600 families of them in the valley and the
neighbouring Tagharma plain, representing about 2500 or 3000
souls. They appear contented with the Kashghar rule, and
appreciate thoroughly the peace and security they enjoy under
it, and their immunity from the terrible " alaman " (raids) of the
Kunjutis, Kirghiz, and Shignis, to which they were formerly

112 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
much exposed. Notwithstanding fellowship of creed, the
Kunjutis and Shignis appear to have had no scruples in carry
ing off and selling into slavery their Shiah brethren of Sirikol.
The Sirikolis are Shiah Muhammadans. They say that they
have been in the valley for seven generations as a distinct
people, under a chief of their own, and are the descendants of
wanderers who came from all quarter's — from Badakhshan,
Wakhan, Shighnan, Hindustan, Kungut, and Turkistan. Hence,
as my informant, Dada Ali Shah, a Sirikol MuUa, said, " The
language peculiar to us is a mixture of what is spoken in all
these countries." Persian, however, is also spoken by them in
common with the inhabitants of the other Shiah states adjacent
to the head waters of the Oxus.41" They differ in appearance
from the Kirghiz, Uzbegs, and inhabitants of Eastern Turkistan,
in having regular features and full beards. Their salutation of
respect is made with the hand to the forehead, and not with the
arms crossed in front as among the Turks. On inquiring for
books or MSS., I was told that all had been lost long ago,
carried off or destroyed in the repeated slave-hunting raids from
which they had suffered cruelly for many years. The MuUa
said that he had been plundered of all his books in these dread
ful " alamans," of which he had witnessed no less than twenty,
but that now they were quite unknown since the estabUshment
of the Atalik's strong rule.
The ancient name of Tashkurgan is Varshidi. The ruins
show it to have been of square or rectangular form, with pro-
* The idea that they were a remnant of the Uigurs, the original inhabitants of
Eastern Turkistan, must give way, I think, to the opinion that they are of Persian
lineage, similar to the alien populations of the other small principalities in their
neighbourhood, and like them spring from the west.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 113
jecting towers, and built of rough unhewn stone. It does not
appear to have been of great antiquity, or very remarkable in
any wajr. The lay Jesuit, Benedict Goes, who passed through
Sirikol in 1602-3 on his way from Wakhan to Yarkand, was
the first and only European traveller before us who had visited
this place. Several accounts from other sources of information
had described the fort as a building of hewn stone, and of very
ancient date, going back even to the time of the legendary con
queror Afrasiab. The MuUa I have mentioned did not know
of it as older than their own history as a distinct people. The
construction of its walls appeared simUar to that of the old
stone towers still standing in most of the viUages, which were
built for refuge and defence in the man-stealing times to which
I have already referred.
The cultivation consists mainly of barley (huskless), beans,
peas, carrots, and turnips. The domestic animals are camels,
yaks, ponies, oxen, sheep, and goats. The yaks are smaller than
the Tibetan species : they are used in the plough for agricul
tural purposes, but, objecting most obstinately to be driven,
they can only be utilised by being led. A murrain carried off
nearly all the oxen and cows a year ago, and fresh cattle were
being obtained from the lower hills. Of wUd animals there are
the Ovis poli and the ibex, and wild fowl of several kinds. For
clothing the universal sheepskin is used with a rough woollen
cloth, spun and made up into cloaks and lower garments,
similar to what are seen in Wakhon and the countries beyond.
Sheepskin stockings with stout leather soles, a cotton or wooUen
girdle, and sheepskin cap, with a scanty cotton turban when
obtainable, complete the ordinary dress of the people. Coarse
cotton garments are worn at times by those who can afford the
Q

114" TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
luxury, the material being obtained from Yarkand and its
villages. For roofing and other purposes, poplar is the only
timber procurable, and it is grown in sheltered spots near the
villages. Stunted willow is abundant near the numerous
watercourses in the valley flats. The climate is severe. Hussun
Shah, the present governor, who has had five years' experience of
it, says that there only two seasons, summer and winter, the
former lasting three months, the latter nine.
The Sirikol river rises in the Taghdungbash Pamir and
Kunjut range at a probable distance of eighty mUes from Tash
kurgan. It is variously called Taghdungbash, from that Pamir ;
Tashkurgan, from the fort ; Sirikol, from the valley ; Tisnaf,
from a large village of the name at the foot of the valley ; and
Yarkand, from the local belief that it is the main head stream
of that river. It was of considerable size when we first crossed
it, March 29th ; the perfect clearness of its waters, the steadi
ness of its flow (equality of volume day and night), and the
severity of the cold, then showed it to be at the usual low
winter ebb. It flows east after leaving the valley, and is said
to be joined about fifty miles lower down by the Tong, a stream
as large as itself, and also flowing from the Kunjut range. A road
to Kargalik, with a branch to Yarkand, passes down the river.
When we returned from Wakhan, we tried to arrange to pro
ceed by it, but were told that the " Tong " pass, over a moun
tain of that name, necessarily crossed on the way, was not
practicable till the " apricots were ripe," meaning a month later.
Alif Beg, the ex-ruler of Sirikol, told me of the difficult
nature of this road till the heavy snow ofthe "Tong" moun
tain clears off in summer. The Sirikol valley, after extending
south for some considerable distance, bends towards the west,

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 115
and merges in the Taghdungbash Pamir, which appears to be
merely a continuation of the valley at a higher elevation. This
Pamir lies to the north of and nearly parallel to the Little Pamir,
from which it is separated by a broad chain of hiUs joining with
the Neza Tash mountains west of Sirikol, and forming one un
broken range. Kirghiz occupy it for pasture as far as the Kash
ghar boundary, said to be twenty " tash " (about eighty miles)
beyond the fort. The Taghdungbash Kirghiz were originally
subject to Kunjut, but some seven or eight years ago, on being
attacked and plundered by the Hunza people, they moved bodUy
to the Sirikol district and settled in Tagharma. On Sirikol
falling under the Kashghar rule, the Taghdungbash Pamir was
annexed, and its old nomad inhabitants now pasture their
flocks there in perfect security. A daughter of Ghazan Khan,
the present chief of Hunza Kunjut, is one of the many wives of
the Atalik, and this connection, added to the wholesome dread in
which the Amir is held, has had a good effect in restraining to
some extent the plundering and slave-stealing propensities of
the cruel Kunjutis. Mir Futteh Ali Shah, of Wakhan, brother-
in-law to the Hunza chief, also took credit to himself for this
improved state of things. He told me that, at the Atalik's
request, he used his influence with Ghazan Khan, and induced
him to order the discontinuance of robbery by his people in
Kashghar territory and on the Yarkand and Tibet road.
The road between Sirikol and Hunza lies along the Tagh
dungbash Pamir to the descent on the southern side of the
Muztagh range, and the distance is said to be a little over 100
miles. The Taghdungbash Pamir slopes appear to lead
gradually up to the mountain crest, judging from the account
given to me by Eusulla, a native of Jummu, and formerly a

116 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
soldier in the service of the Maharaja of Kashmir, who was
taken prisoner in Kunjut and sold into slavery. I give the
story of his capture and liberation in his own words :— "Nine
or ten years ago I was one of about eighty of the Kashmir
troops garrisoning the fort of Chabrot, in Hunza, Kunjut.
There were numbers of Kunjutis in the fort also, and they
in concert with others outside attacked us when unprepared
for resistance, and made us prisoners. About four (three Hindus
and one Musulman) were killed in the struggle. We were
distributed among our captors and sold as slaves. I was given
to a Taghdungbash Kirghiz, and remained with him in Tagh
dungbash and Sirikol for three years, after which he exchanged
me with an Alai Kirghiz for a camel. I travelled with my new
master to the Alai, by Tagharma and the Kizil Art, and was
there employed in tending cattle and sheep. On becoming old
and feeble, six years after j the Mir of the Alai Kirghiz, Timor,
son of Ashnadir, gave me my liberty and sent me to Kashghar
with some of his people. We went to the house of Abdul Bab-
man, to whom Timor is related. He asked me to what country
I belonged. I said Hindustan, on which he told me of the
English being in Kashghar and Hindustanis with them. I went
to them and got employment." Eusulla was afterwards sent to
Aktagh, on the road between Yarkand and Karakoram, in
charge of provisions placed there for use on the return journey,
and on our party passing he accompanied the camp to Kashmir.
The information he gave regarding the Taghdungbash Pamir
corroborates that previously obtained by Mr. Shaw.
The present fort held by the Atalik's troops is a stone and
mud structure built on a commanding position among the ruins
of the ancient Varshidi (Tashkurgan). It forms the residence

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 117
of the governor of the district, Hussun Shah, an energetic,
resolute-looking man, said to be a native of Karategin. He
showed extreme jealousy of our entering his fort, and indicated
in the plainest but most courteous manner his desire not to
see any of us inside it. When he met us, on arrival, he con
ducted us with all ceremony to the camp of " akois " (felt tents),
which he had prepared for us, a short distance beyond the
fort, taking care, however, to lead us by a circuitous route, so as
to avoid passing close under its walls. On his leaving, I
expressed our wish to pay him a visit of respect that day, and
asked what time would be most convenient, but he begged us
not to take the trouble, saying that we as the guests were to be
visited by him. I regarded this as a mere conventionality of
speech, and sent up our attendant Yuzbashi in the afternoon, to
say that if agreeable, we proposed to visit him then. This at
once brought him down to our camp to pay us a visit. We halted
there two days, and the day before departure I again sent the
Yuzbashi to offer a visit from us, but with the same result as
before ; he came to see us, and said he was ashamed to receive
us in such a poor apartment as the best in the fort was, and
begged us not to think of going, adding that we had already
done him great honour in intimating our intention to visit him.
This, with the objection that had been made to any of our
servants entering the fort, induced us to give up all attempt to
obtain any view of the old ruins at a closer distance than a few
hundred yards. We passed by the old walls on our way to
Wakhan, and saw sufficient to enable us to form the opinion re
garding it already given.
The Tagharma plain lies about three miles to the north-east
of the Sirikol valley, and is of the same elevation. It is a fine

118 TRAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
open crescent-shaped flat, about twelve miles long by seven
broad, extending from the south-west to the north-east, and is
well watered by a stream which flows through it from the
north-eastern end, and falls into the Sirikol river. There is an
abundance of rich grass in it, and willows grow thickly by the
streams. The numerous hot springs in many parts of the plain
caused the vegetation in their close vicinity to be considerably
in advance of the season. Besides its Sirikoli Shiah inhabitants,
who cultivate and reside in villages on the slopes, 100 Taiyat
Kirghiz families, under their chief, Krumchi Bi, pasture their
flocks and herds on the plain. This plain is separated from that
of the Kizil Art on the north by a low rounded ridge, formed by
projecting spurs from the opposite mountain ranges — the Neza
Tash to the west, and the Tagharma to the east. The ridge
forms the watershed between the two plains, the drainage to the
north passing into the Little Karakul lake, said to be about
twenty miles distant thence, and that to the south into the
Tagharma stream. The Bardish pass leads from the watershed
over the Neza Tash range into the Aktash valley, which runs
almost paraUel to the Kizil Art. The Bardish pass leads out
nearly opposite the eastern end of the Great Pamir, and about
forty miles above Ak-Balik, the point of junction of the Great
Karakul lake stream and the Aksu.
According to the accounts given by the Kirghiz, and cor
roborated by Wakhis and others acquainted with the country,
the Kizil Art plain extends in a northerly direction from the
Tagharma to the Alai for about 130 miles. It is separated
from the Alai by a mountain range, the pass over 'which is
easy. The Kizil Art is of about the same elevation as the
Tagharma, and is similar in character to it, beino- well

THE MUZTAGH (TAGHARMA PEAK) FROM TASHKURGAN, S I Rl KOL" LOOKI N 0 N.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 119
watered and abounding with grass and bush fuel. It is
bordered on the east by the mountain range extending and
sweepino- round from the direction of the Khokand Terek pass
and the Alai, and on the west by the Neza Tash. The Little
Karakul lake lies in the lower and the Great Karakul in the
upper end of this plain. The former gives exit to the Gez or
Yamanyar stream, which flows eastward through the Gez
defile under the lofty Muztagh (the Tagharma peak) into
the Kashghar plain, and there joins some of the numerous
branches or canals of the Kashghar river. This lake is said to
be about fifteen or twenty miles in circumference, and very
deep. The Great Karakul is stated to be between forty and
fifty miles in circumference. It receives feeders from the Alai
dividing range, and gives rise to the Murghab, which finds its
way westward, and flows through Shighnan and Eoshan into
the Oxus. The Kizil Art is permanently occupied by 1000
Kipchak and Kirghiz families, who emigrated from Khokand
seven years ago, under their present chief, Abdul Eahman.
We halted for two days at Tashkurgan, to make arrange
ments for our journey onwards to Wakhan. The winter was
unusually late and severe, and we were warned to expect con
siderable difficulty on the way over the Little Pamir from deep
snow and intensely cold winds. The weather was bright and
clear during our stay in the Sirikol valley, and we had a glori
ous view from our camp of the majestic Tagharma peak (known
there as the Muztagh, " mountain of ice "), about forty miles to
the north, towering to a height of 25,500 feet, as estimated by
Captain Trotter. It looked a perfect mass of snow and ice, and
glistened with numerous glaciers.
The meaning of the name " Sirikol " has been made a subject

120

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

of discussion and difference among writers and geographers. Lat
terly it has been generally accepted as signifying the " yellow
valley," from the Turki " sarik," yellow, and " kol," valley. Hus
sun Shah explained to me that he considered the name to be a
corruption of the Persian " Sir-i-koh," from the place being at a
great elevation. On finding the valley to be a continuation of
the Taghdungbash Pamir, I looked upon the governor's ex
planation as very probable, from the fact of " Sir-i-koh " being
the Persian literal translation of the Turki Taghdungbash, both
meaning "head ofthe mountain." Nothing seems more likely
than that the Persian-speaking Sirikolis should, on settling in
the valley, give it a Persian name, literally interpreting its
Turki one.

KIRGHIZ AK-OI (WHITE HOUSE).

LITTLE PAMIR LAKE, EASTERN END.

CHAPTER IX.

ROOF OP THE WORLD— PREVIOUS KNOWLEDGE OF PAMIR TOPOGRAPHY — DEPARTURE
FOR WAKHAN— NEZA TASH— RICH GRASS— AKTASH VALLEY— LITTLE PAMIR : ITS
LAKE AND STREAM- WATERSHED— SARHADD STREAM— EXTENT OF LITTLE PAMIR
—REACH SARHADD— MET BY THE "MIRZADA"— IBEX-HOUNDS- REACH KILA PANJA
ON THE OXUS— WELCOMED BY THE MIR : VISIT HIM IN HIS FORT— PRESENT STATE
OF PEACE AND SECURITY- TRIBUTE PAID TO KABUL— POPULATION— CONDITION
OF THE PEOPLE— ANIMALS— CROPS— THROUGH TRADE— STATE DEBT PAID OFF.
We were now about to cross the famous " Bam-i-dunya," " The
Eoof of the World," under which name the elevated region of
the hitherto comparatively unknown Pamir tracts had long
appeared in our maps. The first noteworthy travellers across
the Pamirs were the Chinese pilgrims, Hwui Seng and Sun Yun,
who passed in a.d. 518, and were followed in 644 by the more
famous Hwen Tsang. Then came that grand old traveUer Marco
Polo, in 1272, and Benedict Goes in 1602. The accounts, how
ever, given by these were too vague and general to convey any
correct idea of the true nature of the country. Wood, in 1838,

122 . TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
was the first European traveller of modern times to visit the
Great Pamir, and to trace the Oxus to one of its chief sources
there. His accurate and full description of the route from Kila
Panja to the western end of the Great Pamir lake, as we found
on passing over the same ground, left little to be desired or
done. Colonel Montgomery's native explorer, the "Mirza,"
crossed from Wakhan by the Little Pamir, and was the first to
" tie together the basins of the Oxus and Tarim by a chain of
route measurements and compass bearings with several deter
minations of latitude." Faiz Buksh, in 1870, crossed by the
Great Pamir to Sirikol and Yarkand, and furnished a very
detailed and useful itinerary of the journey. There remained,
however, several important doubtful points to be cleared up
before the topography of the Pamir lands could be under
stood. The only available descriptions of the Great Pamir
eastward of the lake were so meagre and misleading as stUl to
encourage the idea of a far-extending "steppe" from Wood's
lake to the Alai. The flow of the Aksu northward from the
eastern end of the Little Pamir was considered improbable, by
reason of the belief in the existence of this high plain at a
greater elevation than the Little Pamir, and the report of a
careful observer like the " Mirza " as to the continued flow east
ward of the Little Pamir stream, went far to confirm this im
pression. The geographical information, however, collected by
the late Mr. Hayward, and furnished by Muhammad Amin and
Faiz Buksh, indicated an indentation in this supposed plain,
along which from Aktash a stream flowed north-west " towards
Darwaz." Colonel Yule showed in his introductory essay to
Wood's Oxus that the question of the flow of this stream was a
very important one for the adjustment of Pamir topography.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 123
The other doubtful points were the supposed double exit from
the Pamir lakes and the Kizil Art Karakul, and the general
character and height of the so-called Pamir steppe. The infor
mation we obtained from Kirghiz on the Tagharma plain,
Wakhi guides (several of whom spoke to having taken part in
former years in raids as far as the Alai), and others, determines,
I think, the question of the direction of discharge from both
Karakul lakes. Colonel Yule, in his essay, says on this point
that most of the evidence up to that time tended to the Karakul
discharging towards the west, and Mr. Shaw was the first to
throw some light on the story of its double discharge, east and
west, by teUing of the eastern flow from the Little Karakul.
We left Tashkurgan on the 2d of April, escorted by Hussun
Shah, who accompanied us to the mouth of the Shindan defile
leading out of the valley to the west, on the Badakhshan road.
The Governor rode a very fine Turkoman horse, fitted with gold
mounted trappings. This was the first and only horse of that
breed wliich we saw in Turkistan. It was a grey, of light
muscular body, thin neck, spare head, and firm flat legs of iron
like strength. Our first day's journey was to the foot of the
Neza Tash pass, sixteen miles in a south-westerly direction up
the Shindan stream, which flows through the defile of the same
name and falls into the Sirikol river. The defile at several
places is extremely narrow, and shut in closely by precipitous
rocks and bold steep hills which rise high above it. The fallen
stones and stream boulders make the road particularly bad for
many mUes. WiUow and thorn bushes grow plentifully at the
head of the defile, and the hiUs there lose their bold character,
and become rounded and sloping. Our camp was in snow, but
large patches of grass free from it were found in the vicinity

124 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
sufficient for our horses, which ate it greedily, preferring it
greatly to the chopped straw we carried for mixing with their
grain. This grass was similar to what we found in many parts
of the Pamirs, and in the Aktash valley, rich and sweet to the
smell, resembling English meadow hay, and relished immensely
by our animals. Judging from what we saw of it in the end of
winter, it is easy to believe in its fattening properties in summer,
as related by Marco Polo and other travellers, and also told us
by the Wakhis. Neza Tash, meaning spear-stone, is named from
a spear-like pointed rock near the place.
On the second day we crossed the Neza Tash pass (14,920
feet), leading over a high range running about north-west, and
encamped at the mouth of the ravine leading down from it to
the Aktash valley, traveUing a distance of seventeen miles in a
general westerly direction. Snow fell in the night time, and
our journey for this and the following three days, covering a
total distance of seventy-eight miles, was made mainly through
snow. We found plenty of grass in scattered patches and brush
wood fuel at this day's camping place. We were here joined by
a party of Sirikolis with yaks and ponies carrying supplies sent
by Hussun Shah to accompany us to Wakhan. Nothing could
exceed the Amir's hospitality and kindness to us throughout our
long and difficult journey. We and our whole establishment
were abundantly suppUed with provisions ; and on arrival at
each day's halting place, even on the wild and desolate Pamir
lands, notwithstanding snow and long travel, we were always
welcomed with a repast of some sort, prepared by people sent
ahead for the purpose. Orders were given for a strong escort,
if desired to accompany us from Tashkurgan, but we considered
ourselves safe enough with the small party we started with from

AKTASH VALLEY— LOOKI NG N.W.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 125
Yangi-Hissar, and passed on without adding to our numbers.
I afterwards learnt that Eustum, our attendant Yuzbashi, was
well provided with gold, and directed to use it in the purchase
of supplies in Wakhan should necessity arise.
On the third day we proceeded south up the Aktash valley
to its head, where it merges into the Little Pamir, extending
east and west, the appearance being that of the same valley
making a sharp turn from south to east. The Aktash (white
stone) valley takes its name from a high light-coloured rock
near its head on the east, and the stream which flows through
it towards the north is caUed Ak-su (the White Water). We
followed up this stream into and through the Little Pamir, and
traced its rise to the Gaz or Oi Kul (Goose Lake), in that Pamir.
This is the stream that I previously mentioned as an important
one in determining the flow of Pamir drainage to the east.
Colonel Montgomery's famous explorer, the "Mirza" whom I have
alluded to in connection with the Aksu, probably lost the stream
in the deep snow which lay at the foot of the little Pamir and
the head of the Aktash valley, when he passed in February 1869,
and the low appearance of the hills at that point led him most
likely to believe that the stream he had followed so far there
made its way through the Neza Tash range and joined the
Sirikol river. It must be borne in mind that the Mirza worked
under great difficulties, and had to make inquiries and take
observations secretly, so as to avoid, as much as possible, the
suspicion with which he was regarded. On the whole, we proved
his information to be extremely accurate.
We reached the Little Pamir lake on the fourth day from
Tashkurgan, marching forty-five miles on that and the previous
day, in a general westerly direction from the Aktash valley.

126 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
The thermometer only marked 5° below zero, but we suffered
more severely from the cold than we did on the Tian Shan in
January, with fifty-eight degrees of frost. Then the air was still
in the valleys, but here we were exposed to a strong steady wind
from the west, which accordingly blew against us and could not
be avoided when travelling. That, added to the sun-glare off
the snow — for we had bright weather till the 9 th — cut our faces
and inflamed our eyes in a very painful manner. On the first
of these two days our difficulties w^ere greatly increased by the
track being lost in the extensive snow- beds at the head of the
Aktash valley, by wliich our progress was much delayed.
The Aktash valley at about six miles from its head is 12,600
feet above the sea. It runs in a northerly direction from the
Little Pamir, across the eastern openings of the Great and
Alichor Pamirs, and sweeps into the Siriz Pamir at Ak-balik,
the junction of the Aksu with the Great Karakul Lake stream,
the Murghab. Its length is said to be about sixty miles, and
its average breadth, judging from the twenty miles extent of it
over which we passed, is about three miles. It is thickly covered
with grass, and is a pasture resort of the KizU Art Kirghiz.
Willow grows abundantly in it and the adjacent ravines where
streams run. We left our last firewood at the mouth of the
ravine leading from the Neza Tash pass into the Aktash valley.
Up to that we had willow and myricaria, but from that on to
Langar, west of the Little Pamir Lake, a distance of seventy-
eight miles, nothing but a small prickly shrub six or eight inches
high, resembling the lavender plant, is to be got for cooking
purposes. No wood of any kind grows upon the Pamirs, but
this wild lavender plant is found in abundance all over them,
and by reason of its woody roots forms a good substitute for

o3

_£Zo

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

127

bush fuel. It is the same plant which grows all over the high
lands of Tibet, and furnishes the only bush fuel obtainable
there.

LITTLE PAMIR LAKE, WESTERN END.

The Little Pamir is similar in character to the Aktash valley,
and of about the same breadth. It has the same grassy downs,
slopes, and flats. It is bounded on the south by the continuation
of the Neza Tash range which separates it from the Taghdung
bash Pamir. That range appears to sink considerably in height
when it turns to the west from the Aktash valley. A broad
chain of rounded hills extends on the north of the Little Pamir,
and separates it from the Great Pamir. These hills are low
towards the Aktash valley, and rise gradually as they approach
the lake. The lake is three miles long, and a little under a
mile broad. It is broad and deep at the western, and narrow
and shaUow at the eastern end. We found it and the stream
from it frozen. I judged' of the relative depth of the opposite
ends by observing the surface of the ice towards the east to be

128 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
undulating, while at the west it was perfectly level. The height
of the lake is 13,100 feet. The hills on both sides rise about
2000 feet higher, and those to the south were covered with deep
snow. Extensive glaciers and snow-beds lie near the western
end. The name " Barkat Yasin " applied to the lake by some
native travellers is properly that of a rocky ravine to the north
at its head called " Burgut-Yursi," the "eagle's place or nest."
The " r " in " Yursi " is dropped in the pronunciation, as is
common in many Turki words, and this probably led to "Yasin"
being recorded. Looking due east from the lake, a very fine
peak, apparently about 22,000 feet high, showing the glistening
of a great glacier near its summit, was very prominent in the
range in the far distance.
Our farther journey lay west past the lake. At less than
half-a-mile from its head a watercourse choked up with ice and
snow appeared, leading west down the vaUey. Between the
lake and this point the rise is very small indeed, and it might
almost be supposed that the accumulated debris from the ava
lanches, and melting snow torrents of succeeding years, had at
last banked up a barrier at the narrow valley head there, and
driven the lake outlet to the east, where the shores are low and
the valley is unconfined. Six miles west of the lake we came
upon the ruins of Kirghiz mud and stone huts, and a burial-
ground. A stream from the eastern Taghdungbash Pamir joins
here. A road leads up this stream to Kunjut over the Khijrui
pass. The valley closes in at a distance of ten miles below the
lake, and the Little Pamir towards the west may be said to
terminate there. This gives that Pamir a length of fifty-eight
miles east and west, estimated from the southern extremity of
the Aktash valley. The stream (the Little Pamir affluent of the

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 129
Oxus, known afterwards as the Sarhadd stream) then runs in a
deep set course between high banks rising up to the long
mountain slopes, along which, by the right bank, the road leads to
Langar, twenty-five miles from the lake. A deserted viUage and
traces of cultivation were observed here, and numerous yaks and
cattle were seen grazing on the opposite side of the valley. A
stream of considerable size also joins at Langar, flowing from the
south-east, and a road goes by it to Kunjut, over the Kura pass.
From Langar the road continues in a general westerly direc
tion along the banks of the stream to Sarhadd. In the depth
of winter the frozen surface of the river makes passage up and
down easy. We found the ice beginning to break up here and
there, and our path had to be sought across and back over the
rocky bed, and up and down the high steep banks, making the
journey tedious and severe to a degree. In summer the sweU-
ing of the stream makes this road extremely difficult, and it is
then that the Great Pamir route is followed in preference.
Twenty-five miles below the lake, birch, willow, and gigantic
juniper appear in thick clumps, and firewood is plentiful from that
the whole way to Wakhan and Badakhshan. The valley opens
out a mUe above Sarhadd, and remains more or less wide to
Kila Panja and beyond. Habitation and cultivation commence
at Sarhadd and continue down the vaUey, with large tracts of
dense thorn and willow jungle and pasture flats intervening
between the villages.
A letter of welcome from Futteh Ali Shah, the Mir of
Wakhan, was received at Langar, and we were met at Sarhadd
by his eldest son, the " Mirzada " Ali Murdan Shah, who was
sent to escort us to his father's fort residence at Kila Panja
on the Oxus. The son is a young man of about twenty-five

130 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
years of age, with fair hair and blue eyes, and pleasing manners.
Like all the Wakhis he is very fond of field sports, and spoke
much of their summer hunting excursions on the Pamirs and
the neighbouring hUls in pursuit of large game, chiefly the Ovis
poli and ibex. He was accompanied by a number of men with
hawks and dogs. Among the dogs were a pair of ibex hounds,
two spaniels from Kolab, and a terrier nondescript from Chitral,
but looking uncommonly like an importation from the British
infantry quarter of Peshawur. The ibex hounds appeared to
me to be merely the Persian greyhound, with a longer and
thicker coat from being born and bred in the colder country of
Wakhan. They are used in the chase merely as an aid to the
hunter. When ibex are found near precipitous cliffs, the
passage from which can be so occupied by a few men as to pre
vent escape, the dogs are let loose and the ibex generally take
to the rocks, where, ascending to the farthest points, they
become almost paralysed with alarm, and fall an easy prey to
the matchlockmen, who follow them up tiU within easy shot.
Dogs are similarly used for ibex-shooting in Upper Chitral, as
observed by Mr. Hay ward in 1869, and also in the Wardwan
district of Kashmir. Ali Murdan Shah told me that his ibex
hounds had no chance with Ovis poli, which always escape from
them with ease if not wounded. The hawks are used against
the " chikor " (hUl partridge) which is found throughout the
lower valleys. This bird is met with from the lower Hima-
layahs adjoining the plains of Hindustan, to the southern
slopes of the Tian Shan range. An old man among the
attendants of the "Mirzada" remembered Wood the traveller
weU, having been at Langar Kisht when he passed through
on his way to the Great Pamir in 1838.

KILA PANJA ON THE OXUS -LOOKING EAST

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 131
We reached Sarhadd at the seventh day from Sirikol, and
Kila Panja on the twelfth. The extreme severity of the
weather compelled us to make short journeys the first three
days from Sarhadd. A violent and blinding snowstorm met us
each day on the march, accompanied by a wind so intense in its
coldness as to freeze the driven snowflakes on our faces. On
the fourth day we encamped at Zong, a large village on the
right bank of the Oxus, immediately below the junction of the
Great and Little Pamir streams. We reached KUa Panja on
the following day, the 13th of April. Mir Futteh Ali Shah
rode out to meet us, and conducted us to our camp, which was
pitched on an open plain in the close vicinity of his fort. The
Mir was an old man of taU form and good face, but feeble from
age and infirmity. He welcomed us to Wakhan, and expressed
himself in the usual Oriental complimentary terms as happy to
see us at Kila Panja.
KUa Panja is on the left bank of the Oxus (or the Panja as
it is there caUed), about five mUes below the junction of the
two Pamir streams. The place is so called from five forts
which stand together there. Only two, however, can properly
be styled forts even according to local notions, the other three
being merely towers planted on high upstanding rocks in their
vicinity. The principal fort is occupied by the Mir ; it is an
irregular buUding of stone and mud, with high walls and many
towers, situated on an eminence close to the river. We found
the river about sixty yards broad and easily fordable ; when in
flood it is crossed by means of inflated skin rafts.
We visited the Mir in his fort in the evening. We were
received in a centre room with a roof opening to act as both
chimney and window, and spaces on the four sides, exactly

132 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
similar in style to the village houses, but larger and higher.
The entrance was, as with them, through the stables. The Mir
received us attended by many of the " Aksakals " (elders) of
the people. There was no attempt at display of any kind, the
chief being dressed in the plainest manner possible, his people
likewise, and the. room comfortless in the extreme. Everything
was rough except manners, which were good to a degree. We
observed what we had seen before with the Mirzada, respect
paid by kissing the hand ; the people kissing the Mir's hand on
arrival, on departure, and on receiving an order.
Futteh Ali Shah"" was a younger brother of Muham
mad Eahim, who was Mir when Wood visited Wakhan.
The family claims descent from Alexander of Macedon ; and
Futteh Ali Shah said that the ruling famUies of Chitral, Shigh
nan, and other neighbouring states spring from his ; but this, I
imagine, is what each says of all the others who similarly trace
their ancestry to the great Sikandar. Muhammad Eahim was
succeeded by a cousin who only ruled one year, when Futteh
Ali Shah seized the Mirship, which he has held ever since, a
period of thirty-five years. He was full of information, and
told us much during our frequent meetings at Kila Panja. He
appeared to have much influence over his people, and to be
regarded by them with great deference and respect. He was
believed, by them to be a magician, and one of the first questions
he asked about us was if we could do anything wonderful in
magic. He was on excellent terms with the rulers of Shighnan
and Kunjut, and this caused the peace to be kept by their
subjects towards each other, while the Atalik's reputation for
* Mir Futteh Ali Shall died about -nine months after our visit.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 133
swift and severe repression of all attempts at disorder checks
very effectually any inclination among his people to return to
the old chronic state of robbery and violence. We had a proof
during our visit to the Pamirs of the Atalik's promptness to
restrain and punish even the wUd Kirghiz lately settled on the
Kizil Art, in the fonWing instance : —
About the time of our arrival at Sarhadd, nineteen yaks
were stolen from the Wakhi pasture lands near Langar by two
Kirghiz. Mir Futteh Ali Shah wrote to Hussun Shah, the
governor of Sirikol, about the case, and mentioned that the
thieves were believed to be Kirghiz from his district. On our
departure for Tashkurgan, the Mir asked me to press the
matter with Hussun Shah, saying that it was the first robbery
which had been committed on the Pamir for many years, and
his people were alarmed lest it might lead to a return of the old
state of insecurity and lawlessness which had happily ceased
long ago. He hinted at reprisal by his people, and asked
wdiether such would be advisable in order to deter the Kirghiz.
I told him that he could not do better than leave aU to the
weU-known sharp and decisive justice of the Atalik, and I
promised to speak to Hussun Shah about it. On mentioning
the matter to Hussun Shah at Tashkurgan, he told me that the
thieves had been apprehended, and were awaiting the AtaUk's
orders for punishment ; that they were KizU' Art Kirghiz . under
Abdul Eahman, and that restitution of the stolen property would
be made. I mentioned this in a letter to.. Futteh AU Shah
which I sent from Sirikol.
Wakhan has always been a dependency of Badakhshan.
Mir Futteh Ali Shah went to Faizabad, the capital, in September-
October 1873, to give his tribute to the Affghans on Hafizula

134 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
Khan assuming the deputy-governorship. The tribute con
sisted of two camels, twelve horses, twelve cows, and twelve
blankets, and this has been fixed as the yearly due from Wakhan.
The Mir said to me " No money is asked, for the country has
none." He spoke bitterly of the cruel exactions made by the
Badakhshi Mirs, and said that he greatly preferred the Affghans
as masters. Mir Futteh Ali Shah took part with the Atalik and Buzurg
Khan in the siege of Kashghar, and was engaged in the battle
of Kanarik in 1865.. He commanded a Wakhi force which, with
a Badakhshi contingent, crossed the Great Pamir in the summer
of that year, and proceeded to Kashghar by the Tagharma plain
and Bas Eobat route. A Tungani flag, taken at Kanarik, was
shown to us at Kila Panja as a trophy of that battle.
The number of inhabitants in Wakhan is said to have greatly
decreased during latter years. One thousand famUies were
spoken of as its former population, but now there are not more
than five hundred, giving a total of about three thousand souls.
There is a large colony of Wakhis in the Sanju district of
Yarkand, and fifty families are said to have emigrated to the
Sirikol valley during the reign of Mir Futteh Ali Shah. The
people, as a rule, are very poor, but they have the reputation of
being avaricious and particularly fond of money. They resemble
the Sirikolis in appearance, and like them believe themselves to
be descended from wanderers who assembled and settled in
Wakhan, from many quarters. They are Shiah Muhammadans,
and acknowledge Aga Khan of Bombay as their spiritual head,
to whom they annually send offerings of one-tenth of aU produce
of their flocks and lands. This payment is also made by the
people of the neighbouring states and districts of Shighnan,
Eoshan, Chitral, Munjan, and Sanglig.

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TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 135
The snow-storms which prevailed during our first five days
in Wakhan compelled us sometimes to seek shelter in the houses
of the viUagers, where we had several opportunities of observing
their domestic life. The houses are flat-roofed and built of
stone and mud. The outer enclosed rooms are used as stables
for horses and cattle. The family occupy one large centre room,
which has an opening immediately above an oven-like fireplace
sunk in the middle of the floor. On the four sides round this
room are raised platform sleeping places, one of which is partly
enclosed, and allotted to the women and children. The men
are warlike, hardy, and enduring ; they are aU given to field
sports, and appear fond of arms. Every house showed the arms
of its male occupants slung on the walls. The principal arm is
the long rifled matchlock with the forked rest, in general use
throughout Turkistan. The women are delicate-looking, con
sidering the wild mountain country in which they live ; they do
not veil, and appear to have more control in the household than
is usual in the East. We observed the same, in this respect,
among the Kirghiz. Whenever a present was given in return
for shelter and hospitality, the female head of the house was
generally called to receive it. The men do all the field work,
the women being left to manage aU about the house. The
Wakhis as a people are good looking, and many faces of extreme
regularity of feature were seen. Fair hair and blue eyes are not
uncommon. They all speak Persian, besides their own peculiar
dialect. Their dress is somewhat simUar to that of the Sirikolis,
the men wearing long robes of home-spun woollen stuffs, and
sheepskin coats, and the women having white cotton garments,
with a narrow piece of cotton rolled flat round the head. The
men who can afford the luxury affect the pointed Affghan
coloured cap with the usual blue and white checked turban.

136 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
The majority of the inhabitants move with their flocks and
herds in summer to grazing grounds on the heights in their
neighbourhood. A few people remain in each village to attend
to the growing crops, which are harvested on the return from
the summer pasture lands. The flocks and herds consist of
sheep and goats, cattle and yaks. The horses of the country
are small, hardy, and well bred. Wheat, huskless barley, beans
and peas, are the principal crops in Wakhan. Melons and
apricots ripen at Zong, near Kila Panja. The climate of the
Sarhadd district, for thirty-five miles down from the first
village at the head of the valley, is too cold for wheat. The
only timber grown is the white poplar, and that, by reason of
the violent winds of the country, requires a sheltered position.
Stunted red willow and other hardy bush woods are plentiful in
the sandy stretches along the river banks. There appears to be
no mineral wealth in Wakhan. Salt of a very inferior quality
and iron are procured from Badakhshan. We found great
difficulty in getting horse-shoes or iron to make them, and it was
only by working up some iron tent-pegs, a ploughshare, and a
cooking pot, that we were able to complete the number required
for our return journey over the Great Pamir.
The present trade between Eastern and Western Turkistan
is small. It consists chiefly of " ehurrus " (intoxicating drug)
and cotton cloth of Khoten and Yarkand manufacture from the
former, and of horses, indigo, kincob, and sundries from the
latter. The indigo and kincob are obtained from India. The
Mir of Wakhan levies transit-dues at a uniform rate of one
Muhammad-shahi rupee (equal to about two shillings and four-
pence) per horse load, irrespective of value. No dues are levied
for Kashghar at Sirikol, this being done on the goods reaching

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

137

their destination. The Badakhshan currency is the coin of
Wakhan, but there is very little of it in the country, and almost
all trade transactions are effected by barter. We found the Mir
at the time of our arrival in great straits for the means to
satisfy a merciless creditor, who had come from Badakhshan to
press a claim for a sum equivalent to about £45. Payment in
the form of the precious metals was wanted, and we were in need
of provisions to a considerable extent daily, as weU as a stock for
our farther journey, and the use of a large number of horses to
carry it ; so in return for all, our gold was given at this opportune
time to relieve Wakhan of its state debt.

C'.CTci^-k-a.MJ-o^ AUf Be$'.s

KAFFIR FORT NEAR IIISSAR-WAKHAN.

CHAPTER X.
WAKHAN — FRIENDLY RELATIONS WITH KUNJUT — PEOPLE OF KUNJUT — SHIGHNAN
FRIENDLY WITH WAKHAN— MY MESSENGER TO SHIGHNAN— SHORT ACCOUNT OF
COUNTRY— MURGHAB (GREAT KARAKUL) RIVER— RUBY MINES— SHIAH SECT— KAFIR
FORTS — MIR WALI SUPPOSED MURDERER OF MR. HAYWARD — YASSIN— ALIF BEG
OF SIRIKOL-SLAVERY.

Futteh Ali Shah was closely connected with Ghazan Khan,
the chief of Hunza, to whose sister he had long been married,
and to whom he lately gave one of his own daughters in
marriage. Ali Murdan Shah, the eldest son, was said to be the
nephew of the Kunjut chief. He always appeared with a
foUowing of Kunjutis, and told me that he made a yearly visit
to Hunza, generally staying there several months. The journey
from KUa Panja occupies from eight to ten days, and the paths
and passes are described as rough and difficult. The best road
leads up the stream which joins the Little Pamir one at Langar,
and crosses by the Kura pass, which, however, is closed by

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN: 139
snow for three months in winter. The road which branches off
from the Little Pamir one higher up is open throughout the
year, but is not passable by horses. The Kunjutis are Shiah
Muhammadans, but they are little trammelled by their religious
obligations, as shown by their free indulgence in wine, music,
and dancing. Wine is made from the grape and mulberry,
which grow luxuriantly in the deep warm sheltered ravines of
Kunjut. They send no offerings to their spiritual chief, Aga
Khan, as their co-religionists in the neighbourhood do. The
country of Kunjut is divided between the two smaU states of
Hunza and Nagar, both of which have latterly been, more
or less, in a state of hostility to each other. The people are
alike in character and refigion. They have an evil reputa
tion with their neighbours as robbers and man-stealers, treacher
ous, cruel, and cowardly.
The relations between Wakhan and Shighnan are of the
most friendly nature, and have been so for a long time. Futteh
Ali Shah mentioned having visited the Shah of Shighnan five
times during past years. Desiring to obtain further knowledge
of the course of the Oxus, advantage was taken of the friendship
existing between these chiefs to send Captain Trotter's inteUi-
gent assistant surveyor, under Futteh Ali Shah's protection, with
a compUmentary letter and present to Eusuf Ali Khan of Shigh
nan. This explorer proceeded as far as Wamur, passing along
about 100 miles of the unknown portion of the river northwards
from Ishkashim. He was weU received by Eusuf Ali at Wamur,
and the following information about the country in that
direction is taken from his account. The ruler of Shighnan
claims the title of Shah. The present Shah, Eusuf Ali, rules
over both Shighnan and Eoshan. One of his sisters is married

140 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
to the Amir of Kashghar, another to Muhammad Alum Khan,
the Affghan governor of Balkh and Badakhshan, and a third to
Khodayar Khan of Khokand (the ruler lately driven out by an
insurrection of the people), The country of Shighnan and
Eoshan is sometimes called Zujan (two-lived), its climate and
water being considered so good that a man on entering it is said
to have come into the possession of two lives. Bar Panja, the
capital of Shighnan, containing about 1500 houses, stands on
the left bank, and Wamur, the capital of Eoshan, on the right
bank of the Oxus; but the greater portion of both countries
is on the right bank. The Murghab, also known as the Bartang
river, joins the Panja at Wamur, and is there larger in volume
and more rapid in current than the latter. The united
streams retain the name of Panja carried from Wakhan, tUl
Kolab is reached, after which it is known as the Amu or Hamu.
The Murghab may, however, be considered the largest and
longest of all the affluents of the Oxus. The Suchan, formed
by two large streams, the Shakh-Darrah and the Ghund, joins
the Panja from the east nearly opposite Bar Panja. The men
are great sportsmen, and all, even to the Shah, play on horse
back at " chaugan" (the polo of that part), but with larger horses
and longer sticks than are used in Ladak. The baU, moreover,
is a soft leather one. Among the game animals are the Ovis poli,
ibex, and a small antelope. Much wine is made and drunk in the
country. It is a red sweet liquor produced from the cherry.
There are now about 4700 houses or families in Shighnan and
Eoshan together, but the population is said to have been much
greater in former times. Shighnan and Eoshan used to receive
from the Chinese, during their occupation of Eastern Turkistan,
a yearly payment similar to that made to Sirikol, Kunjut, and

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. HI
Wakhan, for the protection of the frontier and the trade routes.
The ruby mines of Gharan are now being worked under the
orders of Sher Ali, the Amir of Kabul. It was said that one
large ruby the size of a pigeon's egg, as weU as some smaller
ones, were found lately and sent to the Amir. The working
of these mines appears to be attended with considerable risk
and great hardship.
According to Shighni accounts, the famUy of the Shah of
Shighnan originally came from Persia, and the first arrival from
that country (said to have been, between 500 and 700 years
ago) was the Shah-i-Khamosh, who was a Syud and a Fakir.
"The country was at that time in the hands of the Zardushtis
(ancient Guebers — fire- worshippers), a powerful and learned
race. The Shah-i-Khamosh commenced to teach these people
the Koran. There were already at this time Musulmans
in the neighbouring country of Darwaz, and many of them
flocked into Shighnan as followers of the Shah-i-Khamosh.
In about ten years he had converted large numbers of the
people, and a religious war commenced, which ended in this
leader wresting the kingdom from Kahakah, the ruler of
Shighnan and Eoshan under the Zardushtis, the seat of whose
government was then at Balkh. After this the teaching of the
people continued, and in ten years more aU had been converted
to the Shiah form of the Muhammadan faith.
If this be true it is probable that proselytising expeditions
were sent into Wakhan and the neighbouring hill countries, and
extended their operations even to Sirikol and Kunjut, gaining
aU over to the Shiah faith which they now profess. The ruins of
three forts, said by the natives to have been erected by the " Atash-
parastan " (fire- worshippers), still exist in Wakhan : one caUed

H2 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
"Kahkaha" in the Ishtrak district; another named "Maichun"
in the vicinity of Khandut ; and the third, Kila Sangibar, close
to the hamlet of Hissar. The first was the residence of the ruler
of the Zardushtis, and is said to bear signs of having been better
built than the others. It consisted of a single square building
of stone and lime, situated close to the Panja and on its right
bank. The "Maichun" ruins show stone walls rising suc
cessively one above the other, with a space of about 200 yards
between them. These walls are made of rough stone and Ume.
A stone causeway, still in good preservation, leads to the upper
fort from the bank of the Panja. The lower wall is entirely in
ruins, but aU the others are in good condition ; the facing of
the waUs is bound with lime. Within the upper fort is an oval-
shaped space of level ground, about 150 paces long and 75 wide,
originally containing houses, of which no vestige now remains.
The fort at Hissar is buUt on a solitary rock standing out high
on the plain, near the junction of the two Pamir streams, and is
said to be of very ancient date. We examined the ruins, and
found them to show no signs of greater antiquity or of having
been more remarkable than the Tashkurgan (stone-fort) of
Sirikol. The mud used as cement in the waUs indicated no
great age. No hewn stones were seen in the whole place, and
neither in it nor the other ruins are inscriptions of any sort to
be found. Eesaidar Muhammad Afzul Khan, who was sent on to
Wakhan to prepare for our arrival there, found the Mir at first
reluctant to receive us. A report had gone abroad that the
real object of our visit was to seize and carry off Mir Wali Khan,
the alleged murderer of Mr. Hayward, who was then residing at
Kila Panja. Mr. Hayward, the bold and adventurous traveUer,

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 143
who penetrated to Kashghar in 1868 at the same time as Mr.
Shaw, was disappointed in his design of passing thence to the
Pamir, and on his return to Kashmir determined to make the
attempt by the Gilgit and Yassin (Upper Chitral) route. He
visited Yassin in the spring of 1870, and formed the acquaint
ance of Wali Khan, the Mir of the place. He found the
Darkote pass leading over the Hindu Kush range to Wakhan and
the basin of the Oxus closed with snow, and went back to India,
after arranging with Mir Wali, the chief, to return in summer,
and cross to Wakhan with his assistance. He came back again
in July of the same year, and was brutally murdered by Mir
Wali, acting under the Chitral chief's orders, in Yassin territory,
at the foot ofthe Darkote pass, about twenty miles from Sarhadd,
Wakhan. All Mr. Hayward's servants and followers were
murdered at the same time as their master, with the exception of
his Munshi (writer), who was spared to be made use of, but was
afterwards put to death, at Chitral it is said. Poor Mr. Hayward
was believed to be in possession of a considerable amount of gold
and valuable presents for the chiefs beyond Yassin, and the
desire to obtain these, as well as the Chitral ruler's wish to take
the traveller's life, appears to have induced Mir Wali to commit
this infamous act. Aman-ul-Mulk, the Chitral ruler and
father-in-law of Mir Wali, on hearing of the indignation the
crime had caused, promptly expressed his intention to slay his
son-in-law, and despatched a force to seize him. Mir Wali fled
to Wakhan, where he obtained protection from Mir Futteh AU
Shah. His Mirship was confiscated and conferred on his cousin
Pahlvan Khan, a nephew of Aman-ul-Mulk. Mir Wali, after a
short stay in Wakhan, went to Chitral, and presenting himself
before his father-in-law, begged for his life for his wife's sake.

144 .TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
He remained with Aman-ul-Mulk for about two years, when
having rendered him the hideous service of murdering an
obnoxious nephew, he was rewarded by reinstatement as Mir of
Yassin, displacing Pahlvan Khan, who about the same time had
been similarly engaged in ridding himself of his half-brother,
Ghazi Khan, whom he suspected of intriguing to supplant
him. Mir Wali ruled in Yassin after this but a little over a year,
when Pahlvan Khan was restored to favour, and was a second
time sent by Aman-ul-Mulk with a force to capture and kill
Mir Wali, who, however, as before, received timely information
and escaped to Wakhan. Mir Wali on this occasion was
accompanied in his flight by a great number of Yassini famifies,
numbering about one thousand souls, who feared the return of
Pahlvan Khan, and preferred exile with their hereditary chief.
These people were distributed in the villages of Wakhan, and
continue to reside there. Aman-ul-Mulk has several times
demanded the surrender of these Yassinis, but Futteh AU Shah
declined to give them up, leaving the matter of return to their
own choice. They, however, dread and dislike the Chitfalis
too much to desire to go back.
Mir Wali succeeded his father thirteen years ago. About
three years previously the father of Aman-ul-Mulk made an
attempt to subjugate Yassin, and invaded the country with a
force, but was repulsed by Mir Wali's father. The Chitral
ruler died shortly after, and was succeeded by his son now in
power. Friendship was re-established between Yassin and
Chitral, but on the death of Mir Wali's father Aman-ul-Mulk
advanced with a force and renewed the old claim to Mastuch
and Yassin. Mir Wali submitted without a struggle, and was

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 145
permitted to retain the Mirship on agreeing to the Chitral
terms. His dependence was further secured by receiving in
marriage a daughter of Aman-ul-Mulk. Pahlvan Khan was
appointed Mir of Mastuch.
Mir Futteh Ali Shah asserted that Aman-ul-Mulk ordered
Mir Wali to murder Mr. Hayward, threatening him with death
in case of disobedience, and on this ground he regarded Mir
Wali as comparatively guiltless. He held that Mir Wali, as
the vassal, was exonerated by the order of his feudal lord, and
that the latter is alone to blame. He therefore pitied, he said,
Mir Wali in his misfortune, and gave him and his people
" shelter and bread " when they asked of him. He added that
Aman-ul-Mulk took the plunder and burdened Mir Wali with
the shame. We have other evidence also of the Chitral ruler's
possession of the ill-fated traveller's property.
Mr. Hayward's rifles were breech-loaders, and we gathered
from what we saw and heard at Panja, that these, in being
handled and shown as curiosities in firearms by his murderers,
had caused two serious and fatal accidents. The old Mir asked
to see our weapons, and on my offering to put a breech-loading
rifle into his hands and to show him how to open the breech and
load, he drew back with alarm, saying that they in Wakhan did
not understand, such "guns," that in their hands' they were
dangerous even to one's friends ; and he then mentioned that
such another gun, on being shown at Panja some time before,
had exploded and severely wounded a man, and that the same
thing had happened under similar circumstances at Zebak, the
gun again exploding there and killing the brother of the man
who held it, besides wounding another so badly that he died
shortly after. Other matters also conduced to the belief that
u

146 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
the only breech-loading arms previously seen at Panja were poor
Hayward's, taken by Mir Wali on his flight from. Yassin and
subsequent journey to Chitral vid Zebak, when they passed into
the possession of his father-in-law Aman-ul-Mulk.
Mir Wali was at Kila Panja while we journeyed over, and
we heard at Sirikol that he regarded our expected visit with
considerable anxiety, and we afterwards found that Mir Futteh
Ali Shah had shared this anxiety, believing that evil might
result to himself for having given an asylum to him who was
the instrument of the murder of one of our countrymen. He
stated his fears in public, saying, " I have incurred the displeasure
of the .Atalik for sheltering Alif Beg of Sirikol, and now I am
threatened with the anger of the English for giving protection to
Mir Wali." This was repeated to Mir Wali, who, after proving
his innocence, according to their notions of rude feudafism,
by showing the order under which he acted in murdering Mr.
Hayward, left for Faizabad, Badakhshan, before our arrival.
Alif Beg, the ex-ruler of Sirikol, was residing with the
Mir of Wakhan during our stay at Kila Panja, and paid me a
visit two days previous to our departure. A report had been
spread that the Kashgharis in our camp intended with our
assistance to take him by force to Sirikol, and he had accord
ingly been in a state of alarm for some days after our arrival.
On the conviction becoming general that the rumours concern
ing us were false, he determined to make our acquaintance.
He carried out his intention, however, in a manner which
showed that he had not entirely set aside all fear and suspicion.
He came to my tent without giving any notice, and entering
abruptly, shook hands, informing me, in reply to my question,
that he was Alif Beg. He sat all the time of his visit with his

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 147
hand resting on a pistol in his belt, while one of his foUowers
stood guard at the tent door with a gun on his shoulder. He
conversed with me for a long time about Sirikol and the neigh
bouring countries. He had lately returned from a visit to some
of the garrison towns of Eussian Turkistan, and he talked much
of what he had seen there. His sister, who was a widow of the
late ruler of Shighnan and Eoshan, is married to Ali Murdan
Shah of Wakhan.
Slavery still continues to be the curse of many of the Shiah
states round about Badakhshan. Notwithstanding its prohibi
tion by the Amir of Kabul, the disgraceful trade in human
beings, with all its attendant crime and cruelty, still flourishes.
A man has about the same value as a woman, and the selling-
price of a slave is from £12 to £18, or ten to fifteen buUocks,
five to eight yaks, or two Kirghiz guns. The open slave-
market certainly is closed, but beyond that nothing seemingly
is done to suppress the shameful and horrible traffic, which is
otherwise carried on as briskly as ever. The Affghan occupa
tion of Badakhshan has had the good effect of abolishing the
tribute in slaves which used to be demanded and enforced by
the ruling Suni Mirs from their feudatories with subjects pro
fessing the heretical Shiah creed. Futteh Ali Shah of Wakhan
told me that the tribute he paid in September 1873 was the
first ever given of which slaves did not form a part. Muhammad
Khan, the late ruler of Shighnan, is said to have sold great
numbers of his subjects into slavery during his short reign of
four years. He died in 1869, and was succeeded by the present
Shah, Eusuf Ali, who not only discontinued the enslaving of
the people, but also refused to give any as slaves in the tribute
to Badakhshan. The tribute is now paid in horses. It was

148 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
reported that during the absence of Mir Wali many of the
inhabitants of Yassin and Mastuch had been sold into slavery by
order of Aman-ul-Mulk, the ruler of Chitral, and that one mer
chant alone had lately taken away nearly a hundred slaves.
When Mir Wali was in Balkh during our visit to Wakhan, he
told the governor of Badakhshan that many of his subjects
were being brought into the country as slaves, and obtained
permission to attack the slave-merchants for the purpose of
rescuing them. Mir WaU fell upon a slave party at Zebak in
the end of May, and recovered many of his people.
Both the Great and Little Pamirs have remained unvisited
for summer pasture by Kirghiz or Wakhis for a long time now,
solely on account of the feuds, raids, and reprisals caused by the
slave traffic. Kidnapping Kunjutis and Kirghiz, Shignis and
Wakhis, attacked and harried one another to that extent that the
open country was abandoned, and each kept to their own
confined valleys. Avarice and greed urged Shiah even to steal
Shiah, for sale to the Suni, who considers the enslaving of the
" accursed Eafizi " a meritorious act, giving the heretic an
opportunity of benefiting by example, and being rescued from
perdition by conversion to the orthodox faith. In those days
traders could only cross the Pamirs in numerous well-armed
bands, but all that violent state of things has since changed to
one of peace and security. Merchants now pass and repass at
all seasons in small parties without molestation, and the neigh
bouring states do their utmost to prevent any return to the old
condition of violence and lawlessness. I have already mentioned
an instance of the readiness with which international complaints
between subjects of Wakhan and Kashghar are listened to, and
wrongs redressed. The Atalik's reputation for prompt and

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

149

severe action in all cases of disorder and disturbance by his own
subjects or his neighbours' has done much to bring about this
improvement, and shows the great good already proceeding from
the establishment of his strong government among rude
unsettled small states unable or unwilling of themselves to con
trol their subjects to the satisfaction of others.

WAKIII FALCONER WITH YOUNG HAWK.

YOL MAZAR (ROADSIDE SHRINE) ON THE GREAT PAMIR BRANCH OF THE OXUS.

CHAPTEE XL
SEVERE WEATHER-SUPPLIES— SNOW ON GREAT PAMIR— SIGNS OF SPRING— DEPARTURE
FOR GREAT PAMIR — CAPTAIN BIDDULPH GOES TO THE CHITRAL PASSES — ALI
MURDAN SHAH'S SIGNET RING — KIRGHIZ OF GREAT PAMIR — ROAD — WOOD'S
VICTORIA LAKE— GREAT PAMIR WATERSHED— DEEP SNOW— PAMIR PATHS— CAPTAIN
BIDDULPH REJOINS— ALICHOR AND SIRIZ PAMIRS— RANG KUL— TASHKURGAN ON
SIRIZ PAMIR— WILD ANIMALS— GIGANTIC PAIR OF OVIS POLI HORNS-RAREFAC
TION OF THE AIR— LOCAL NAME OF LAKE VICTORIA— GENERAL DESCRIPTION
OF THE PAMIR PLATEAU— MEANING OP "PAMIR" — HOT SPRINGS — "BOLOR" —
AKTASH^SHORT SUPPLIES— DIFFICULT DEFILE— RETURN TO SIRIKOL.

We remained thirteen days at Kila Panja. The weather was
very severe most of that time. Snow fell on six days, and an
intensely cold wind blew regularly till within three days of our
departure. Wood speaks in his Journey to the Source of the
Oxus of the withering blast of the " bad-i-Wakhan " (wind of
Wakhan), blowing down the valley. This wind prevailed dur
ing a great part of our stay at Panja, and only ceased occasion-

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 151
ally, to be followed by an equally chilling wind from the opposite
direction, Badakhshan. These winds swept across the open
plain on which we were encamped with a cutting violence which
made our tent life there rather miserable at times.
Our party was a large one, amounting, with our Sepoy guard
of five men of the Guide Corps, and a similar number of Kash-
gharis, to forty-eight men, with seventy -two horses. We had
arrived at the most unfavourable time of the year for supplies,
most of the excess above the wants of the inhabitants being sold
in the end of summer and during the autumn to the merchants
who pass with their " kafilas " about that time. The matter
of our daily supplies, and a sufficiency to take us back over the
Pamir, was one of considerable difficulty.
We had been told that the Great Pamir, on account of snow,
is rarely passable tUl the end of June, and were assured that it
would be impossible for a large party like ours to succeed in
any attempt to cross it earlier. On the 15th April I despatched
a Sepoy of the Guides with two of the Mir's men towards the
Great Pamir lake to report on the depth of snow, so that we
might take advantage of any possible chance of passage that
way. They returned in eight days, bringing such an account
of the road as induced us to determine on trying it. They
found the snow deep and heavy in the drifts and hollows, but
the fact of their having been able to reach the lake made us
regard the journey as less difficult than had been previously
represented. The Mir visited us the day after the return of the
guides, and referring to their report, said that he would give all
assistance in his power to gratify our desire to see the Great
Pamir lake, and go back by a different route from that by which
we came. Our baggage horses had not recovered from the

152 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
severe effects of the journey over, but the Mir gave ns the use
of several fresh animals, to allow of occasional relief to those
which had suffered most. The Mir also made arrangements for
the provision and carriage of eight days' supply of food and
grain for men and horses on the return journey.
Ploughing and flooding of the fields to facilitate the break
ing up of the ground in preparation for sowing were commenced
during our stay at Kila Panja. The streams of the side ravines
issuing from the glaciers and deep snow-beds of the high ranges
which rise from the valley here, principally the Hindu Kush
on the southern side, give an abundant water-supply for
irrigation purposes throughout the summer, which, with the
extreme regularity of the season in this country of scanty rain
fall, enables the inhabitants to reckon very confidently on an
unfailing harvest. On the 25th the weather changed suddenly
from cold to mild, and a faU of rain that night, succeeded by a
warm day without wind, gave sure sign of coming spring.
On the 26 th we paid a farewell visit to the Mir, and
left Kila Panja; Dr. Stoliczka, Captain Trotter, and my
self, for the Great Pamir, and Captain Biddulph, accompanied
by Eesaidar Muhammad Afzal Khan, for the Little Pamir, a
spot in the Aktash valley being appointed as our rendezvous
on the 4th of May.
We (the Great Pamir party) halted the first day at Langar
Kisht, a considerable village on the right bank of the Great
Pamir stream, and about two miles above its junction with that
of the Little Pamir. It is the last village in the valley leading
to the lake. The Mir's son, Ali Murdan Shah, visited us in the
evening to say good-bye, and present a pair of ibex-hounds,
which were evidently considered a valuable gift. The sporting

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 153
tastes of the Wakhis lead them not to regard the dog as a mean
animal as other Muhammadans do. Wood mentions how
a man slave was exchanged for a dog, and the Mir, when we
took leave of him, said that he would be always glad to see our
countrymen, and that even a dog of theirs would be welcomed,
and he would himself rise in the night time to see food cooked
for it. On asking Ali Murdan Shah at parting what he wished
particularly to be sent from India as a memento of our visit, he
requested a signet ring, similar to my own, with the following
couplet engraved on it in the Persian character : —
Ba fazl-i-an Khudawind-i-nigahban
Ali Murdan ghulam-i-Shah-i-Murdan.
By the grace of the Protecting Lord,
Ali Murdan, the servant of the King of Men.
The excellence of the Delhi engravers' work is weU known
beyond our Indian frontier, and the Mirzada was gladdened in
due course by the receipt of a perfect specimen of their handicraft
in the manner he desired.
The ring was included in the presents sent to the Mir on
our return to India, and was used by the son in his reply to my
letter which accompanied it.
From Langar Kisht our road lay in a general north-easterly
direction, at some height along the slopes of the mountains on
the right bank of the stream. The mountains on each side rise
in a very gradual incline from the deep rocky gorge in which
the stream flows. The Zerzamin and Mutz streams join from
the north at eight and nineteen miles from Langar Kisht. The
upper or summer road to Shighnan leads along the latter. Bar
Panja, the capital, is said to be reached in eight days by it, and
Shakh-Darrah in three. Shakh-Darrah was at one time a small
x

154 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
independent Mirship, but it is now absorbed in Shighnan. The
Kirghiz who formerly occupied the winter villages, the ruins of
which we saw in sheltered spots towards the western end of the
Great Pamir, are now located in Shakh-Darrah, and make the
Alichor Pamir their summer pasture resort. According to the
Wakhis, the Mutz stream has a course of about twenty-five
miles, rising near the crest of the mountain range to the north
which forms the boundary between Wakhan and Shighnan.
The Great Pamir appears to begin twenty-five miles above
Langar Kisht. The valley is narrow up to that point, with the
base of the mountains touching the bed of the stream, but it
there opens out, and the hills show low and rounded. Thence
the road lay in the same general north-easterly direction, over
flats and long easy slopes the whole way to the lake. Birch
and willow are plentiful to within twenty -five miles of the lake,
and from that on, the never-failing wild lavender plant affords
a sufficient supply of fuel. Excellent grass, simUar to that
of the Little Pamir and the Aktash and Sirikol vaUeys, is
found throughout. The partially frozen and extremely low
state of the stream facilitated our journey, by aUowing us to
pass over its surface, and along its bed at places where later in
the season the increased flow of wTater necessitates a hio-her
path being followed. We saw snow pheasants and hares
west of the lake, and wild fowl all along the stream up to
its source. The lake stream in the first sixteen mUes of its
course flows between high gravelly banks, which rise to far-
extending downs, dying away in the long and easy mountain
slopes. We were remarkably fortunate in meeting with com
paratively little snow as far as the lake. There was a consider
able fall on the night of the 29th at our camp, twenty-five
miles below the lake.

VICTORIA LAKE, GREAT PAMIR,- LOOKING W.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

155

V^*--*^=____^'-_. i?f^ -¦ -  "¦ ~ . ™vrf*x_\
GREAT PAMIR (VICTORIA) LAKE — EASTERN END.
We reached the Great Pamir or Wood's Lake on 1st May.
It was entirely frozen over, and covered with a thin coating of
snow. Its water is perfectly fresh, judging from what we used
for two days high up from the stream which flows out of it.
It extends east and west, and is about ten miles long by three
broad. The water-marks on the shores, however, indicated a
considerable enlargement in summer. The southern shore is
even, the northern broken and irregular. Many signs of con
siderable depth were observed. At three miles from the foot
a high promontory runs out from the northern shore and
approaches the southern side to within less than a mile. The
hills to the south slope very gradually from the edge of the
lake, and the peaks rise to a height of four or five thousand feet
above it. Broad plains and low undulations for about three
miles lie between it and the hills to the north, which appear
much lower than those to the south. Captain Trotter made the
lake to be 13,900 feet above the sea.

156 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
The valley closes in at the head of the lake, and continues
narrow for about eight miles, when it again opens out with a
steady fall to the east. Captain Trotter, by close examination,
made the watershed to be at this point 14,300 feet. Two small
frozen lakes were observed near the head of the lake, under the
high snowy mountains which close in there from the south.
They presented the appearance of ice accumulations, and pro
bably, after furnishing feeders to the lake for a short time,
finally disappear in summer. A valley at the head of the lake
leads to the Wurm pass over the southern range, by which the
Little Pamir, Langar, and Sarhadd are reached in one and two
days respectively.
There was a great deal of snow about the lake, and it lay so
deep on the high ground at its head, and in the vaUey leading
down east from the watershed, that the easy regular road
that way could not be followed. We were accordingly forced
to seek a path along the low hills to the north, and had con
siderable difficulty in forcing our way through the heavy snow
drifts. The snow ceased about eighteen miles from the lake.
The eastern stream from the watershed is there joined by one
from Shash-Darrah (six valleys) in the range between the
Great and Little Pamirs. Several paths lead from this point to
the Little Pamir and the Aktash valley. We followed the
united stream, here called the Isligh, down to the Aktash valley,
a distance of fifty-eight miles, over a gentle fall the whole way.
The hills right and left there are low and rounded, with great
openings and depressions appearing everywhere. We were
accompanied by a large party of Wakhis, acting as guides,
and in charge of the horses carrying our supplies. On one of
the guides being asked if paths lay in the direction of certain

TH

E AKTASH -ROCK IN THE AKTASH VALLEY - LOOKI NQ S.E- ICE BREAKING UP ON THE AKSU.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 157
openings pointed out, the answer was, " Yes, there are paths all
over the Pamir ; it has a thousand roads ; with a guide you
can go in all directions." We reckoned the length of the Great
Pamir from its western limit to the Aktash valley to be 108
miles, with an average breadth of about three miles. We
travelled eighteen miles south-east up the Aktash valley, to the
halting - place which had been agreed upon with Captain
Biddulph as the place of meeting on 4th May. Both parties
reached punctually on that date, we marching thirty-seven
miles to keep the engagement. The ice was then breaking up
on the Aksu, and we had some difficulty in finding a safe cross
ing-place on its frozen surface.
Captain Biddulph succeeded in his lovely journey by the
Little Pamir route, and made valuable additions to the results
of our exploration work. The snow, which lay deep when we
all passed over to Wakhan, had almost entirely disappeared by
the time he returned, and the lake outlet, with the flow of its
stream, the Aksu, was again carefully examined and noted.
The Alichor Pamir runs east and west, almost parallel to
the Great and Little Pamirs. According to Wakhi accounts, it
is similar in character to them, broad at the eastern and narrow
at the western end. It is connected with the Great Pamir by
the " Dasht-i-Khargoshi," a desert flat twenty miles long, which
extends across from a point about twenty miles west of Wood's
Lake. A road passes along it and branches from the Alichor
to Shighnan and Khokand. A stagnant lake called " Tuz " and
" Sussik Kul " (salt putrid lake) lies near the western end of
the Alichor. The water of it was described to me as being salt
to the taste. The native traveller, Abdul Mejid, noticed this

158 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
lake as at the first stage from Khargoshi on his way to Kho
kand, but some lingering doubts concerning it led to the idea
that possibly Wood's Lake was meant, and that its water was
brackish. Our evidence, however, confirms the accuracy of
Colonel Yule's opinion, that it was " difficult to conceive that a
lake with so copious an effluent as it (Wood's lake) should have
salt waters." East of the Sussik Kul a fresh-water stream rises
and flows into the Yeshil Kul (green lake), lower down in the
Alichor, from which another stream issues and joins the Murg
hab, below its junction with the Aksu. The Kashgharis who
fled with the Khojas in the last century, before the Chinese
when they took possession of Eastern Turkistan, passed up the
Alichor Pamir in their flight to Badakhshan. They were over
taken by a pursuing Chinese force near the Yeshil Kul, and are
said to have driven their women and children, mounted on
camels and horses, into the lake, to meet their death by drown
ing rather than they should fall into the hands of the enemy.
The Kirghiz have a legend that the sounds of lamentation, and
of people and animals in terror of death, are often heard near
the lake.
I have already mentioned the Siriz Pamir when speaking of
the Aktash vaUey. This Pamir appears to be a continuation of
the Aktash valley, similarly as the Little Pamir is, and as the
Taghdungbash is of the Sirikol vaUey. It seems to run from
Ak-Balik in the east to Bartang in the west. Bartang is the
beginning of inhabited and cultivated Shighnan in that direc
tion. It is described as abounding with fruit-bearing trees, and
must therefore be much lower than KUa Panja, with a very
different climate. It is easy to believe this, when the long
course of the Aksu-Murghab, with a steady fall, is considered.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 159
The Kirghiz spoke of the Eang (Ibex) Kul, a large lake
about one day's journey from Ak-Balik, and situated in the
Siriz Pamir. This probably is the Eang Kul of Pamir Khurd,
mentioned in Colonel Yule's Essay on the Geography of the
Oxus, the Aktash valley being there regarded as the Little
Pamir, of which it is but the continuation, as I have already
explained. By the Kirghiz accounts, the Great Karakul is four
days', the Little Karakul three, the Eang Kul one, the Yeshil
Kul two and a half, and Bartang four days' journey from Ak-
Balik. I estimate the day's journey in these accounts at fifteen
miles in a direct line. The Tagharma Kirghiz told me of the
ruins of an old " Tashkurgan " (stone fort) near Ak-Balik similar
to that in the Sirikol valley.
The animals of the Pamirs are the Ovis poli, ibex, brown
bear, leopard, lynx, wolf, fox, marmot, and hare. These remain
throughout the year. WUd fowl swarm on the lakes in summer.
The wild yak is not known on or near the Pamirs. We were
not fortunate in pursuit of game. We saw a great many Ovis
poli, but on the way over to Wakhan the snow lay too deep to
permit of sport, and on the journey back our limited supplies
would not admit of a halt for the purpose. The only Ovis poli
obtained was one shot by Captain Trotter on a long march of
thirty-seven miles. That same day I had my " stalk " of some
fine males spoilt by a wolf, which was similarly engaged in
approaching them. The horns of the Ovis poli and the ibex lie
in great numbers (especially the former) at many places on the
Pamirs. These animals suffer heavily from the leopards and
wolves, which prey almost entirely on them. A murrain is also
said to have made great havoc among both some years ago. I
brought from the vicinity of the Great Pamir Lake a gigantic

160 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
pair of Ovis poli horns, measuring sixty-five and a half inches
in length round the curve, fifty-three inches in a straight line
from tip to tip, and sixteen inches round the base. I presented
this magnificent head to the British Museum, where it is now to
be seen. This large head was exhibited at a meeting of the
Zoological Society in London on the 15th of June last by Mr.
Edwin Ward, F.Z.S., of Wigmore Street, to whose care I had
sent it from India. There was read on that occasion a paper by
Sir Victor Brooke on the wild sheep of the Tian Shan and other
Asiatic Argali, and reference was made in it to certain points of
distinction between the large wild sheep of the Tian Shan and
the Pamirs, observed by Captain Biddulph, and also to the state
ments of the Eussian naturalist and traveller, M. Severtzoff,
from which it appeared that the Tian Shan species is, in every
respect, smaUer than that which frequents the Pamirs. The
ibex are similar to the Himmalayan species, and accord
ingly differ from those we saw in the Tian Shan range,
which were of the black kind, also found in the Kuen Luen.
I had the hounds presented by Ali Murdan Shah tried after
ibex on the Great Pamir, but though they went eagerly and
well after the game, they failed to drive them to the selected
rocks, and no opportunity of a shot was given.
We experienced none of the symptoms of great height, viz.
headache and difficulty of respiration, on the Pamirs, in the
exaggerated degree that native travellers have described. None
of our camp followers or people suffered in any unusual way,
beyond becoming breathless when exertion was made. All were
free from severe headache except our mess butler, who was quite
like a mountain barometer in indicating a height of 12,000
feet, as he invariably then became a victim. There was perfect

LARGE OVIS POLI HORNS FROM THE GREAT PAMIR.

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 161
health among our party throughout the journey. One of the
Wakhis who accompanied us with the supplies over the Great
Pamir died suddenly from heart disease, on the last march to
Aktash, and this was the only casualty or sickness even among
the numbers of men who were attached to our camp, when
»
crossing and recrossing the Pamirs. All the natives of India
with us worked well and cheerfully through this intensely cold
journey, and suffered no bad effects from the severe exposure.
The Pamir plateau may be described as a great, broad,
rounded ridge, extending north and south, and crossed by thick
mountain chains between which lie elevated valleys, open and
gently sloping towards the east, but narrow and confined, with
a rapid fall, towards the west. The waters which run in aU,
with the exception of the eastern flow from the Taghdungbash,
collect in the Oxus; the Aksu, from the Little Pamir lake,
receiving the eastern drainage which finds an outlet in the
Aktash valley, and joining the Murghab, which obtains that
from the Alichor and Siriz Pamirs. As the eastern Taghdung
bash stream finds its way into the Sirikol and Yarkand rivers,
and the Great and Little Karakuls send their waters to the
Oxus and the Kashghar river respectively, the Neza Tash
range and Kizil Art plain must be regarded as forming the
watershed between Eastern and Western Turkistan.
I have explained how the name of a place was mistaken for
that of the Little Pamir lake. A similar mistake appears to
have been made in the name "Sirikol" given to the lake of
Great Pamir. When speaking of and arranging for our journey
up to the lake, we were told of halting-places caUed "Bun,
Bekh, and Payan-i-Kul" (base, root, foot of the lake), "Miyan
and Barabar-i-Kul" (middle, half-way up the lake), and "Bala

162 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
and Sir-i-kul " (above and head of the lake). " Sir-i-kul " was
most frequently mentioned, being the usual caravan stage, and
it was said in such a way as to lead easily to the idea of its
being the name of the lake. When the guides were asked
pointedly as to the real name of the lake, they answered, " It is
called ' Kul-i-Kalan ' (the great lake), because there is no other
lake here equal to it in size." The name " Kul-i-Sikandar "
(Alexander lake), mentioned by a late native traveller, was not
recognised by the guides, with whom I used to converse con
cerning these local details day after day whUe travelling.
Therefore the name " Victoria " given by Wood to the Great
Pamir lake displaces no distinctive local one, and may well be
introduced into our maps without any risk of causing that
geographical confusion, the fear of which made him hesitate to
apply it.
Eegardirig the name " Pamir " the meaning appears to be
wUderness, a waste or place abandoned, yet capable of habita
tion. In answer to my questions as to its application (we were
then below the western end of the great lake) one of the guides
said, " In former days, when this part was inhabited by Kirghiz,
as is shown by the ruins of their villages, the valley was not all "
called Pamir as it is now. It was then known by its village
names, as is the country beyond Sirikol, which being now
occupied by Kirghiz, is not known by one name but partly as
Charling, Bas Eobat, etc. If deserted it would be Pamir."
The term appears to be a generic one applied to extensive pasture
flats and plains as distinguished from mountain grazing grounds
resorted to only in summer. The Shewa plain to the north-east
of Faizabad, Badakhshan, celebrated for its summer delights, is
also known as the " Shewa Pamir."

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 163
We saw a hot sulphurous spring on the bank of the Little
Pamir stream at Patur, thirty-five miles below Sarhadd, tem
perature 130°. Its waters are conducted into several roughly-
built stone baths, which are used for rheumatic and other com
plaints. An equally hot spring in the immediate vicinity
disappeared two years ago on the stream-bed extending over it.
We also visited the mineral spring near Hissar mentioned by
Wood. We found extensive hot springs at Isligh, between the
Great Pamir lake and the Aktash valley. The thick grass grow
ing close within their warming influence had been made a
resting-place by bears the night before our visit, judging by the
quite fresh traces seen all about.
We made repeated inquiries from Kirghiz and Wakhis and
from Mir Futteh Ali Shah regarding " Bolor " as a name for any
mountain, country, town, river, or place, but all professed perfect
ignorance of it. Colonel Yule had previously expressed his
opinion with reference to the apocryphal topography of the
Oxus regions in which " Bolor " occupied a prominent position,
that there was no real evidence for the existence of such a place
on the western side of Pamir, and urged its exclusion from
geography for the future.
We reached Aktash on the 4th of May, having traveUed
157 miles from Kila Panja. Our appointed place of meeting
with Captain Biddulph was about three miles beyond the
ravine by which the road to Sirikol passes, and allowing for
this, we made the Great Pamir route from that place to Kila
Panja to be almost exactly the same in distance as that of the
Little Pamir, about 185 miles. We were fortunate in finding
two days' supplies for our camp awaiting our arrival at Aktash,
where they had been sent from Tashkurgan by the Governor

164 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
according to my request. I had reason to anticipate some
difficulty in obtaining a sufficient quantity to subsist the whole
party as far as Tashkurgan, and as a provision against failure
sent a messenger from Wakhan some days previous to our
departure, with a letter to Hussun Shah, asking the assistance
which we met at the Aktash frontier as desired. I understood
enough of a conversation in the Wakhi dialect that took place
in my tent at Langar Kisht between the " Mirzada " and the
Aksakal of that viUage, to make me suspect a deficiency in the
amount of food and grain contracted for, and took steps to
secure a proper supply ; but after the first march I found that
through the cupidity and cunning of those entrusted with the,
Mir's orders to provide, sufficient for five days only instead of
eight had been furnished. I at once communicated with the
Mir himself on the subject, and received a letter from him the,
following day, saying how annoyed he was at the dishonesty
that had been practised towards us and himself, and promising
extra supplies, which reached our camp in good time. We had
no fear of being absolutely starved, for seeing horseflesh in
common use for food in Kashghar, where, as it is there con
sidered a delicacy, we doubtlessly often ate it in the numerous
made dishes at the many feasts we were entertained with, we had
learnt to look upon our horses as a last resource always in case
of extreme necessity. We halted a day at Aktash to rest our
tired animals, and to arrange for the return of the Wakhis to
Panja. Fifty of them with fifty-two horses accompanied us on
the journey, and rendered us excellent service. We rewarded
them liberally, and sent them back with a letter of thanks to
their Mir, and a sum of money for the famUy of " Naoroz," the;
poor Wakhi who died the previous day. His companions

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. ¦ 165
started, carrying the dead body with them for burial at Zong, the
deceased's native viUage.
From Aktash we retraced our steps to Tashkurgan by the
same road that we travelled before. The snow had almost
entirely disappeared from the Neza Tash pass, and no ice re
mained in the Shindan defile. But this, which facilitated the
journey over the former to the laden horses, increased their
difficulties immensely in passage through the latter, as many of
the stream crossings which were easy before, over snow and ice,
were now hazardous and dangerous, through a wild torrent and
over sharp shifting rocks. Some of the baggage animals,
weakened by continuous fatiguing work, seemed to succumb
under fear, and had to be left in the defile till the foUowing
day, to recover from, the paralysing numbness which seized
upon them. We were again most kindly received and enter
tained at Tashkurgan by the governor, Hussun Shah.

- —^__-__ ..-;¦:____- Z-.z^j.. ^r-i*^.ci^_^ .---_' c? v-
CAMEL.

DOUBLE-HUMPED CAMEL OF EASTERN TURKISTAN.

CHAPTEE XII.

RETURN TOWARDS YARKAND— SUDDEN CHANGE FROM WINTER TO SUMMER— YARKAND-
CROPS— SUMMER DRESS OP PEOPLE— LEAVE YARKAND FOR LEH-KOGIAR ROUTE
—SNOW-MELTING FLOODS— YANGI-D A WAN PASS— RETURN OF WINTER—KARAKORAM
PASS -DEATH OF DR. STOLICZKA— LETTER AND PRESENTS TO MIR FUTTEH ALI
SHAH OF WAKHAN— HIS DEATH, AND SUCCESSION OF ALI MURDAN SHAH.

After three days' halt and rest at Tashkurgan we proceeded on
our return journey towards Yarkand, accompanied again by our
old companion, Hyat Muhammad, the Kirghiz Yuzbashi, whose
tents and people we visited on the way some days after. We
traveUed the first day to the foot of the Kok Moinok pass,
taking a long round by the Tagharma plain, where we enjoyed
the hospitality of Krumchi Bi, the chief of the Kirghiz located
there. We had a long and interesting conversation with him
and his Kirghiz about the neighbouring KizU Art plain and its
lakes and streams. This plain, with numerous camels, horses,
yaks, sheep, and goats grazing on its fine pasture grounds, was

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 167
a very pleasant sight to us after the extended wilderness and
wastes of the Pamirs. Like the yak, the camel, besides being
useful as a beast of burden, also yields raw material for the
manufacture of blankets in its long hair and the soft thick
undergrowth of down which it gets in winter in common with
all animals exposed to the severe cold of these elevated mountain
lands. The camel's winter coat is cut in spring, bushy shags
being left on the head, neck, humps, and shoulders, as shown in
my sketch. Eastern Turkistan is the home of the double-
humped camel, whose original stock, in a wild state, is said to
be found stUl in the east, towards Turfan. The domestic species
is less in size than the ordinary camel seen in India, and the
wfid animal is said to be still smaller.
We saw at Tagharma, for the first time, the yak yoked to the
plough, but he was led, as he would not be driven, at work.
We crossed the Kok Moinok pass (15,800 feet) the following
day, and joined the road by which we had travelled up at the
little lake on the high Chichiklik plain.
We had a fall of snow at Chihil Gumbaz on the night of the
14th of May, and cold weather till the 18th, when we were at
once plunged into extreme heat at Egiz Yar, on, the Eastern
Turkistan plain. This place was quite "burnt up" with the
winter's frosts when we passed through it less than two months
before, and now we found it in full summer foliage and verdure.
The walnut and apricot trees, which were leafless then, were now
bearing fruit as large as marbles, and the crops were up about
two feet ; vegetation was being rapidly forced by copious irriga
tion and an atmosphere heated even throughout the night.
The water everywhere was thick and brown with a fertilising
fine soil, and our drinking supply was obtained by melting

168

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

lumps of ice, of which every viUage stores large quantities in
deep pits, for the preservation of fruit, and for general use in the
hot summer months. From Egiz Yar we struck across country
to Kizil Eobat, the first stage on the road from Yangi-Hissar to
Yarkand. We reached Yarkand on the 21st May, and halted there a
week to rest our tired horses, dispose of those unfit for the
severe Karakoram journey still before us, and purchase and
hire others to complete our train. The Dadkhwah and his
officials were kind and hospitable to the utmost, and we con
tinued to be treated as " honoured guests " to the last, tiU the
frontier at Aktagh (twenty-six miles from the Karakoram pass)
was reached.
Yarkand was farther advanced in summer than the Yangi-
Hissar neighbourhood ; the wheat was higher, and barley was
beginning to show in ear, while the fruits were larger, and
mulberries were actually ripe. The Lucerne grass was at its full

ladies' summer fashions, yarkand.

height, and being cut for cattle and horses. In the dress of the
people a great change had also taken place— stout white cotton

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 169
being worn in place of sheepskin and quilt. For the men the
same shaped garments as seen in winter remained, but for the
Dther sex " fashion" produced smaU, close-fitting, and large dome-
Like caps and hats of every colour, with flowers stuck coquettishly
behind the ears, showing to the front, or fixed to the side of the
hat, white robes with scarlet chevrons on the right breast, wide
white trousers with scarlet braiding, and embroidered high-heeled
shoes with floss-sUk rosettes. Coloured gauze wrappers and
scarlet garments with white braiding were also worn. The
ladies' summer and winter "fashions" of Eastern Turkistan differ
most essentially from those of more civilised countries in never
changing their style.
We left Yarkand on the 28th May, and the next day reached
Kargalik, travelling so far on the same road as that by which
we came the previous year. Thence we proceeded by the
Kogiar and Yangi-Dawan route to the Yarkand river, up which
we passed to Aktagh, where the old road was again joined and
foUowed to Leh, which was reached on the 29th of June 1874.
The Kogiar and Yangi-Dawan route avoids the difficult Sanju,
and the long Suget passes, but is only practicable for caravans in
winter when the upper parts of the Tiznaf and Yarkand streams
are in a low and frozen state.
We encountered great difficulties along this road from the
melting snow torrents which made the main streams impass
able every day for a certain length of time. By the end of
a summer's day the sun's heat has reached weU into the
glacier or snow-bed, and drawn out a stream, which continues
running, tiU in a similar manner the night's cold penetrates
to the same depth and shuts up the flowing springs. The
duration and extent of the floods and torrents thus produced

170 TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.
are affected of course by the state of the day, whether
cloudy or bright, and the time of the summer season as
regards its degree of heat. TraveUing up the streams as we did
towards their sources, we met the floods earlier each evening,
and were able accordingly to commence our journey sooner" each
morning. The twisting and turning of the rivers in the narrow
vaUeys and close ravines through which the route passes necessi
tated innumerable crossings, which in the swollen and turbulent
state of the waters became each one more difficult than the
other, from the alarm of the horses and mules, and their reluc
tance to face the tumbling, furious torrent ; every crossing was a
scene of wild uproar and struggle, and many a load was thrown
or dragged under water. The ammunition of the escort was
carried in small iron-bound cases, two forming a load, and these
being always under the direct care of a guard were generaUy
supposed to contain treasure. One of the ponies so loaded was
swept down the stream into a deep pool, where in getting it
ashore one of the boxes sfipped and was lost in the depths.
The Yarkandis seemed to take particular notice of the spot, and
doubtlessly the place was disappointedly visited with the object
of recovering the lost treasure when the stream feU low enough
to admit of search for it.
A heavy fall of snow on the night of the 8th of June
enabled us to cross the Yangi-Dawan pass (16,000 feet), and
traverse the deep rocky gorge leading from it down to the
Yarkand river, with comparative ease. The gorge was filled
with masses of ice, broken up by the action of the summer
torrents ; and the head-quarter party of the Mission, which
preceded us, had made this passage with much difficulty and
labour. The greater cold and the gloom foUowing upon the

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN. 171
previous night's snowfaU kept the stream down, and we worked
our way over the ice blocks and fissures without the fear of
troubling torrents as usual. We were fortunate in this respect
with faUs of snow on the 11th, 12th, 13th, and 16th June, as
we pursued our journey over the Karakoram towards Leh. The
return of cold weather checked the flow of the streams long
enough to allow us to pass easUy, and we met with no diffi
culties from floods in that part of the road as experienced by
Mr. Forsyth's party which had passed before us.
Three days after crossing the Karakoram pass, while jour
neying by the elevated Dipsang route mentioned at page 21, we
suffered the deep affliction of losing by death one of our party,
Dr. Stoficzka, a highly valued friend and talented companion.
This sad event has deprived the scientific world of much of the
great store of knowledge which Dr. Stoficzka laid up in Tibet
and Turkistan ; for although his notes and papers on the special
subjects of his research were preserved, and the result of his
labours is to be given to it under most competent guidance, still
it is not to be expected that the work can be produced in the
perfect form that it would have assumed had the gifted author
been spared to complete it. He was buried at Leh, where a
handsome memorial tablet has been erected over his tomb by
the Government of India.
Mir Futteh Ali Shah of Wakhan died in the early part of
this year, and was succeeded by his son, Ali Murdan Shah. It
was a matter of great satisfaction to us that the old Mir,
who, as I mentioned, was feeble and infirm from age, lived
long enough to receive the letter and valuable presents
which the Viceroy of India caused to be sent to him on
our return, in acknowledgment of his kind hospitaUty, aid,

172

TEAVELS IN TUEKISTAN.

and protection to us. The letter and presents were safely
•delivered by a trusty native officer, who proceeded with them
from Peshawur ; and replies were received from both father
and son, expressing great pleasure at being remembered by their
English friends.

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