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MEMOIRS, ILLUSTRATIVE OF
THE LIFE AND WRITINGS
OF
JOHN EVELYN, ESQ. F.R.S.
AUTHOR OF THE "SYLVA," &c. &c.
COMPRISING HIS DIARY, FROM THE YEAR 1641 TO 1705-6,
AND A SELECTION OF HIS FAMILIAR LETTERS.
TO WHICH IS SUBJOINED,
Cfje ;Prtoate Correspondence
BETWEEN
KING CHARLES I. AND HIS SECRETARY OF STATE,
SIR EDWARD NICHOLAS,
WHILST HIS MAJESTY WAS IN SCOTLAND, 1641, AND AT OTHER TIMES DURING THE CIVIL WAR ;
ALSO BETWEEN
SIR EDWARD HYDE, AFTERWARDS EARL OF CLARENDON,
AND SIR RICHARD BROWNE,
AMBASSADOR TO THE COURT OF FRANCE, IN THE TIME OF KING CHARLES I. AND THE USURPATION.

THE WHOLE NOW FIRST PUBLISHED, FROM THE ORIGINAL MSS.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
Edited by WILLIAM BRAY, Esa.
FELLOW AND TREASURER OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES OF LONDON.

SECOND EDITION.— VOL. I.

LONDON : PRINTED FOR HENRY COLBURN, CONDUIT STREET ;
AND SOLD BY JOHN AND ARTHUR ARCH, CORNHILL.
1819-

\

Printed by Nichols, Son, and Bentiby,
(ted Lion Passage, Fleet Street, London.

TO

JOHN EVELYN OF COTTON IN SURREY, ESQ.

SIR,
The last sheets of this Work, with a Dedication to the late Lady
Evelyn, under whose permission it was to be given to the Public, were
in the hands of the Printer, when it pleased God to release her from a
long and painful illness, which she had borne with the greatest fortitude
aqd resignation to the Divine Will.
These papers descended, with the estate, from the celebrated John
Evelyn, Esq. (a relative of your immediate ancestor), to his great-
great-grandsOn, the late Sir Frederick Evelyn, Bart. This gentleman
dying without issue, intrusted the whole to his Lady, whose loss we
have now to lament; of whose worth, and of the value of whose friend
ship, I have happily had long knowledge and experience. Alive to the
honour of the family, of which she was thus made the representative,
she maintained it in every point, and with the most active benevolence;
and her care extended to every part of the property attached to the do
main. Mr. Evelyn had formed in his own mind a plan of what he
called an " Elysium Britannicum," in which the Library and Garden
were intended to be the principal objects : could he return and visit
this his beloved seat, he would find his idea realized, by the arrange
ment and addition which her Ladyship had made to his library, and
by the disposition of the flower-garden and green-house, which she had

IV

embellished with the most beautiful and curious flowers and plants,
both native and exotic/
In completion and full justification of the confidence thus reposed in
her, her Ladyship has returned the estate, with its valuable appendages,
to the family, in your person.
I have, therefore, now to offer these Volumes to you, Sir, with a
wish, that you and your posterity may long enjoy the possessions, and
continue the line of a Family so much distinguished in many of its
branches, for superior vworth and eminence.
I am, Sir,
Your most obedient,
and most humble servant,
Shere, 2 Jan. 1818. WILLIAM BRAY.

PREFACE.

The following pages are taken from the Journal of John Evelyn,
Esq. author (amongst many other works) of the celebrated Sylva, a
Treatise on Forest Trees, and from which he has often been known by
the name of The Sylva Evelyn. The Journal is written by him in a
very small, close hand, in a quarto volume containing *J00 pages, which
commences in 1641 and is continued to the end of 1697, and from
thence is carried on in a smaller book till within about three weeks of
his death, which happened 27 Feb. 1705-6, in the 86th year of his age.
These books, with numberless other papers in his hand-writing, are
in the valuable Library at Wotton, which was chiefly collected by him-
Lady Evelyn, the late possessor of that very respectable old Mansion,
after much solicitation from many persons, consented to favour the
Public with this communication. The last sheets were in the hands
of the Printer, when the death of that Lady happened.
The Editor who has been intrusted with the preparation of tbe
work for the press, is fully diffident of his competence to make a
proper selection, and is even aware that many things will be found in
its pages which, in the opinion of some, and not injudicious, Critics,

vi PREFACE.
may appear too unimportant to meet the public eye : but it has been
thought that some information, at least some amusement, would be
furnished by the publication ; it has been supposed that some curious
.particulars of persons and transactions would be found in the accompa
nying notes ; and that, though these papers may not be of importance
enough to appear in the pages of an Historian of the Kingdom, they
may in some particulars set even such an one right ; and, though the
notices are short, they may, as to persons, give some hints to
Biographers, or at least may gratify the curiosity of those who are
inquisitive after the mode in which their ancestors conducted business,
or passed their time. It is hoped that such will not be altogether
disappointed. Thus, when mention is made of great men going after dinner to
attend a Council of State, or the business of their particular Offices, or
the Bowling Green, or even the Church ; of an Hour's Sermon being
of a moderate length ; of Ladies painting their faces being a novelty ;
or of their receiving visits of Gentlemen whilst dressing, after having
just risen out of bed ; of the female attendant of a lady of fashion
travelling on a pillion behind one of the footmen, and the footmen
riding with swords ; such things, in the view above-mentioned, may
not be altogether incurious.
For many Corrections, and many of the Notes, the Editor acknow
ledges, with great pleasure and regard, that he is indebted to James
Bindley, Esq.* of Somerset House, a Gentleman who possesses an
invaluable Collection of the most rare Books and Pamphlets, and

* Since the first Edition of this Work, the Editor has to lament the loss of this valuable Friend;
who died, in the 81st year of his age, Sept. 11, 1818, just as the printing of this second edition
was begun.

PREFACE. VU
whose liberality in communications is equal to the ability afforded by
such a collection.
He has also most cheerfully to acknowledge how much he is obliged
for many historical notes and elucidations to a literary Gentleman very
conversant with English History, whose name he would gladly give,
were it not withheld by particular request, and whose research, through
upwards of seven hundred contemporary volumes of Manuscripts and
Tracts, has doubtless given additional interest to many of the Letters.
The Editor, finally, returns his best thanks to Mr. Upcott, of the
London Institution, for the great and material assistance received from
him in this Publication, besides his attention to the superintendance
of the Press.

LIST OF PLATES, &c.

Portrait of John Evelyn, Esq. from the Picture by Sir G. Kneller  Frontispiece to Vol. I.
Exterior View of Wotton Church  Vol. I. p. xii.
Interior View of the same  Ibid.
Dormitory, or Burial-place, of the Evelyn Family in Wotton Church  Vol. I. p. xxiv.
Wotton House, in Surrey, in its present state, (folded,)  Vol. I. p. 2.
Portrait of John Evelyn, Esq. by R. Nanteuil  Vol. I. p. 245.
Plan of Deptford, 1623, from an original pen and ink Sketch, with additional Remarks, by
John Evelyn, Esq. (folded)  Vol. I. p. 328.
Portrait of Mary, wife of John Evelyn, Esq. . . . ,  Frontispiece to Vol. II.
Wotton House,, in Surrey, drawn and etched by John Evelyn, Esq. 1653  Vol. II. p. 94.
Portrait of Sir Edward Nicholas  Vol. II. Part II. p. I.
Portrait of Sir Richard Browne, Bart  Vol. II. Part II. p. 177.
Pedigree of the Family of Evelyn  .'  To face Vol. I. p. ix.

LONG DITTON, HUNTERCOMB,
SURREY. BUCKS.
Tbe family came to Harrow, from Evelyn, near Tower Castle, in
the hundred of South Bradford, in Shropshire, 1410.
Avelyn, or Evelyn, 1440.
William Avelyn, or Evelyn, of Harrow on the Hill,T= 
Middlesex, died 17 Edw. IV. 1470. |

Roger, 1490.=j=Alice, daughter and heir of  Aylward.
 I
John] of Kingston, 1520.=j=  dau. of David Vincent, esq.
1 Rose, daughter and heiress of =f George, of Long Ditton=j=2- Joan, daughter

Thomas Williams, brother and
heir of Sir John Williams, Kt

and Wotton, died 1603,
aged 73, only son.

of  Stint,
died 1613.

GODSTONE, SURREY.

WEST DEAN,
WILTS.

NUTF1ELD, SURREY.

1  daughter^pTHOMAS,

of sir 
Moore, kt. tet. 20
In 1571.

of Long
Ditton.

I 
Sir Thomas, of
Long Ditton,
1623, married
Anne, daugh
ter and heir
ess of Hugh
Gold, of Lon
don, mer
chant, died
1669, aged 77.

!. Frances, daughter of
..„  Harvey, of
Chesington, sister of
lord Harvey.

Mary.— Richard Hatton, esq.
of Long Ditton, 3d son
of Richard Hatton, esq.
of Shrewsbury.

2 Susanna,=John Evelyn,=F1. Elizabeth, daughter

of GODSTONE,
Esq. in 1623.

1. Jane, wife
of Sir John
Bod ley, of
Stretham, Kt.
2. Mary, wife
of Otwell
Worsley.

George, of
Hunter-
combe, near
Burnham,
Bucks, died
1657, mar
ried Dudley
Bayles, of
Suffolk,died 1661.

„ 1 — T I I I I
Charles.
Francis.
Vincent.
Arthur. Thomas, died Jan.
1649-50.
1. Anne.
2. Maria, marr 
Ironside.
3. Jane.

Edward, created a Bart.
1683, died
1692, marr.
Mary,
died 1696,
aged 61.

— r-rT~r~rT~\
William, a clergyman.
Elizabeth, wife of Hen. Constantine,
of Merley, co. Dorset.
Dorothy, wife of James Docwray, of
co. Cambridge.
Frances, wife of Edward Ventris, of
Cambridge.
Rose, wife of Thomas Keightley, of
Staffordshire.
Catherine, wife, 1st, of .. .. Ken-
rick, and, 2ndly, of William Bray-
don, of London.
Susanna, wife of William Christmas,
of London.

I 
Sir John, of Lee
Place, in God-
stone, Kt. mar-
riedThomasine, daughter and
coheiress of
William
Heynes, Esq.
of Chesington,
died 1643.

and heiress of Wil
liam Stevens of King
ston.

— r
ROBBH ofG« cftS E

George, of
Everley
and West
Dean, Wilts,*
married
Elizabeth,
daughter and
heiress of sir
John Rivers,
son of John,
mayor of
London.

•m

TTTTTT
James, third son.
1. Elizabeth, wife of Edward Engham.
of Godnedon, co. Kent.
2. Frances, wife of Sir Francis Clerk, ol
Merton Abbey, Kt.
3. Margaret, wife of John Saunders, of
Redneck, co. Berks, Esq.
4. Jane, wife of Sir Anthony Benn, Kt
Recorder of London, and afterwards of
Sir Eustace Hart, Kt.
5. Ann, wife of John Hartopp, Esq.
6. Susan, ? djed jnfantSi
7. Sarah, S
8. Elizabeth, unmarried 1623.

TT"1
1. Thomas,
2. George,
both living
in 1661.
3. William.
Frances.

Sir John, of the same, created Bart. 1660, died 1671, n. i.
married, 1st, Mary, daughter of George Farmer, Esq.
Prothonotary of the Common Pleas, died 1663, n. i. ;
2ndly, Ann, daughter of Serjeant Glynne, of Henley
Park, Surrey, n. i.
George, died an infant, 1637-
Richard, died an infant, 1637.
Thomasine, died an infant, 1633.
Jane, wife of Sir William Leech, of Westerham, Kent.
Elizabeth, wife of Edw. Hales, of Bougbton Malherbe, Kent.

1. Mar
garet, died 1683.

i ! ¦¦ i — i — i  ¦ r-r-r
George, died 1685, aged 22. John, died of
Penelope, wife of Sir Joseph Alston, Bart. the small pox
Mary, wife of William Glynn, Esq. Oct. 1702,
Sophia, wife of Sir Stephen Glynn, unmarried.
daughters and coheiresses. Two daugh-
Other children died young. ters.

George, of Nutfield,=^2. Mary, daughter

=George,=P2.Frances. Sir John, of

o

of Nut-

the same,

!.

field,

married

heir to

Elizabeth,

1

his

daughter of

D

brother,

Robert

i

born

Cockes, of

S

1641, died

London.

1699.

1

1
commander in the
army in Holland ;
married, 1st, 
by whom no issue.
of Thomas
Garth, Esq.
re-married to
Charles Boone,
Esq.
Edward, of Fellbridge,
died 1751, setat. 71,
married Julia, natural
daughter of the Duke
of Ormond. =f=
 1
Richard, married Jane
Mead.
1. FRAStF
dauglta
and ht :¦¦¦
of Vfil.
liam G. ¦
ville Esq
r-r-T  ' — '
Ann, wife of Daniel
Boone, esq.
Mary. Elizabeth, wife of Peter
Bathurst, of Clarendon
Park, Wilts, Esq.
Julia Mar
1. Annabf.lla,=^
garet,
sister of Geo.
married
Medley, Esq.
of Buxted,
Sayer, Esq.
1 ' 
Sussex.
J
¦James, of =j=2
the same,
died 1793,
aet. 75.
Jane, daugh
ter of Sir
Richard Cust,
of Belton,
co. Lincoln.
Julia ANNABELLA,=pSir George Shuck-
heiress to her
father, and to
her uncle Med
ley.
burgh, Bart.
took the name of
Evelyn, died
1804.
Anne, died
unmar
ried 1791.
r-r
William, Dean of
Elmsley in Ire
land, died about
1776, marr. Mar
garet Chamber
lain.1^
Frances, heiress to
her mother, mar
ried the Hon. Ad
miral Edward Bos-
cawen, who died
1761. =F
William, an officer,
1776, killed in Ame
rica, unmarr.
George, died unmar
ried about 1756.
John, of
Wotton, married
Ann Shee.
n — r
William.
William Evelyn, of St.
Clere, marr. Susanna,
daughter and coheiress
of Thomas Borrett,
Esq. of Shoreham in
Kent. =?= 1 
 I  "
Georgii mond Ert
died Dee
1770,1m at ««
stout
Henry Duke of Beau-
J
I 
Julia Evelyn Medley, died April 8,
1804; married the Honourable Chas.
Cecil Cope Jenkinson, brother of
Robert Banks, Earl of Liverpool. =p
_T
Elizabeth, married
fort, K. G.
George Evelyn, third Viscount Falmouth. --S
Frances, married Admiral John Leyeson Gower.
I I
A son died before 91.
Frances, married colon
Alexander Hume, tookfl
name and arms of Eitl
only, July 22, 1797.
n— 1 
William, an officer, lost in a transport in
the gulf of St. Lawrence 1805 or 1806.
George, in the Guards.
Frances.
r~T~r
Henrietta Anne, now Countess of Rothes, marr. Geo.
Gwyther, who has taken the name of Leslie, 1817. ?+>
J"
Amelia, died unmarried.
Mary,
n
Two daughters.
„ r-r-r
CharlotteJulia, died
an infant 1 802.
Elizabeth Jane.
Georgiana, died un
marr. 1814.
„ r
SUSAJj) marr.
tunat nam
Two sonsj
* This George was
at Everf
PEDIGREE OF THE EVELYN FAMILY
IN THE DIFFERENT BRANCHES.

Arms. Azure, a Griffin passant Or; a chief
of the last.
Crest. On a wreath a Griffin passant Or,
ducally gorged, beak, and legs, Azure.

ST. CLERE,
KENT.

WOTTON, SURREY.

WOODCOTE, IN EPSOM,
SURREY.

bert, 3d son,=f=SusAN, daughter

ilGodstone, 10. Surrey,
Esq.

of Gregory
Younge, of co.
York.

i r
Richard. Arthur.

 1
Catherine,= Thomas
died 1610. Stoughton,
of Stoughton,
near Guildford, Esq.

l_

Richard, 4th:
son, of
Wotton,
died 1640.

1. George,
son and
heir, mar
ried Jane,
daughter
of Richard
Crane, of
Dorset-

n i i
2. George, s. p.
3. Arthur, living
1636; marriedAnne
Harrington.
Elizabeth, only
daughter, married
Sir John Tyrell,
of Springfield, co.
Essex.

 1 I I I I I I I '1
2. Robert, died in the West
Indies.
3. James.
1. Susan.
2. Elizabeth, wife of Antho
ny Gamegge, of co. York.
3. Anne, wife of Henry
Staynes, of London.
4. Frances, wife of Henry
Kelsey, of co. Hants.
5. Rose, a nun.
6. Maria, a nun.
7. Margaret, wife of John
Knatchbull.
~l l_

1 . Mary, dau.:
and coheiress
of Daniel
Caldwell, of
Horndon,
co. Essex,
Esq. died
1644.

:George,: of Wot
ton,
died
1699,
aged 82.

— i ii i in
George, died an infant.
Mountjoy. Charles.
John.
Jane, married 
Fellman of Glouces
ter.
Rebecca, 2nd daughter.

„ I I t I I T — '
George, died 1676.
John, died 1661.
Richard, died 1656.
Another died 1662.
Elizabeth, married
Sir Cyril Wych.
Jane, died 1723.
3 sons died infants.

:2.MARY,widow of Sir John
Cotton, of co.
Kent, daugh
ter of sir
Robert Offley,
of Dalby,
co. Leicester,
died 1664.

JOHN :
EVELYN, of
SAYES
COURT, died
1705,
aged 85.

:Elianor, daughter and
heiress of John Stans-
field, Esq. of Lewes, co.
Sussex, died 1635.

Others died.

Mary.
Elizabeth, married
Rev. Dr.
Fulham.

=MARY,dau. and heiress
of Sir
Richard
Browne,
by a dau.
of Sir Juhn
Pretyman, died
1709,
aged 74.

Richard,

Elizabeth,

jANE.wife

of Wood-

wife of

of Wil

COTE IN

Edward

liam

Epsom,

Darcie,

Glan ville,

married

Esq. of

Esq.

Eliza

Dartford,

of co.

beth, dau.

co. Kent.

Devon.

and heir

ess of

George
Mynne,
Esq. of
Wood-
John,- died
before his
father, 1698.
JNCES,:;hterjeiressffil- Glan- Esq.
.^William Evelyn=|=2. Bridget, sister
Glanville, of St.
Clere, in Kent,
Esq. took the name
of Glanville.
and coheiress of
Jones Raymond,
Esq. of Langley,
co. Kent.
— n — I
Three
daughters.
I
Elizabeth, daughter
and heiress,
married
. I I -TT~T~\
-Martha, Four sons died infants.
daughter Mary, died unmarried.
and co- Elizabeth, married
heiress of .... son of Sir John
Richard Tippet, n. i.
Spencer, Susanna, married Wil-
Esq. died liam Draper, Esq. of
1726. Adscomb in Croydon.
Ann, daughter
and heiress,
married
William
Mountagu,
Esq. son of
the Lord
Chief Baron,
n. i.
William Glan
ville,
married
Pierrepoint.
Elizabeth, mar
ried Simon,
son of
Viscount Har-
court ; died
1760. =p
J
se Ray-
Evelyn
Dec. 23,
, buried
God-
olonel ik the
>elyn
=j=Lady Jane Elizabeth
Leslie, became coun
tess of Rothes in 1773,
and died June 2, 1816,
having re-married Sir
Lucas Pepys, Bart.
A daughter, mar
ried .... Lang
ton, Esq.
Another daughter
married Chase
Price, Esq. =j= 1 
I 
Simon, Earl Har-
court.
John, created Baronet
1713, died 1763, aged
B2, mar. Ann, daugh
ter of Edward Bos-
cawen, Esq. died
1751.
J_
Frances, died
1719, aetat. 22,
married Wil
liam Evelyn,
Esq. of St. Clere.
43
Martha, died
1794, married
George Ve-
nables Lord
Vernon.
Sir John, died 1767, aged
61, married Mary,
daughter of Hugh Lord
Viscount Falmouth,
died 1749.
T
I. Henrietta =pGeorge William,1
Ann, daugh
ter of Lord
Pelham, obiit
1797.
Earl of Rothes in
right of his
mother 1810, died
1817-
=2 . Charlotte
Julia, daugh
ter of Colonel
Jno. Campbell,
of Dunoon.
A daughter
married
Gascoign, Esq.
Edward,
archbishop of York,
(1807.)
 1 
Charles, mar
ried 
daughter and
heiress of
Peter Prideaux,
Esq.=f=
„' 111
General William, Col. 29th regt.
foot, died unmarried 1783.
Sydney, died unmarried.
Ann, died 1771.
Mary, died 1779,
both unmarried.
r r~ T
Lucy, died 1754, unmarried.
Mary, died unmarried.
Augusta, died 1812, n.i. marr. the
Rev.Dr. Hen. Jenkin, Rector of Wot
ton and Abinger, died Dec.21,1817.
Sir Frederick, died
1812, n. i. mar
ried Mary, dau. of
Will. Turton, Esq.
died Nov. 12, 18 IT.
Charles, married
Philippa, dau. of
Capt. Fortunatus
Wright.
anna Prideaux Evelyn,
jrr. John Ellworthy For-
natus Wright, Lieute-
nt R. N. =j=
 I
rrrr ,
s and four daughters.
T- T
John, succeeded to the title on
the death of Sir Frederick
Evelyn.
Charles, died in India unmarr.
1. Major^ Phi- =p2. Wilbra-
Hough- lippa. ham
ton. Liardet, Esq.
1 1 r
Two sons and one daughter.
Martha Boscawen,
died in America,
married Nicholas
Vincent. =r=
T I T
Edward, died an infant.
Hugh.Maria, died in France
unmarried.
— m
One son and two daughters.
— m
Two sons.
Frances Louisa,
married the
Rev. John Grif
fith. =y=
r~i 
Two daughters.
t Dean Church 22 February following.
IX

MR. EVELYN lived in the busy and important times of King
Charles I. Oliver Cromwell, King Charles II. King James II. and
King William, and he early accustomed himself to note such things
as occurred which he thought worthy of remembrance. He was known
to, and had much personal intercourse with, the Kings Charles II.
and James II. ; and was in habits of great intimacy with many of the
Ministers of those two Monarchs, and with many of the eminent men
of those days, as well amongst the Clergy as the Laity. Foreigners
distinguished for learning or arts, who came to England, did not leave
it without visiting him.
In the first edition of the Biographia Britannica in folio, Dr. Camp
bell has a long article relating to this gentleman. Dr. Hunter, in his
edition of the Sylva in 177^, has copied great part of what Dr.
Campbell had written. Dr. Kippis added several particulars in the
second edition of the Biographia in 1793. Mr. Chalmers has added
some information in his Biographical Dictionary, in 8vo. (1816) ; but
the following pages will produce farther particulars of this eminent
man. They will shew that he did not travel merely to count steeples,
as he expresses himself in one of his letters : they will develope his
private character as being of the most amiable kind. With a strong
predilection for monarchy, with a personal attachment to Kings
Charles II. and James II. , formed when they resided at Paris, he
was yet utterly averse to the arbitrary measures of those Monarchs.
Strongly and steadily attached to the doctrine and practice of the
Church of England, he felt the most liberal sentiments for those who
differed from him in opinion. He lived in intimacy with men of all
persuasions, nor did he think it necessary .to break connexions with
any one who had even been induced to desert the Church of England,
vol. i. b

and embrace the doctrines of that of Rome. In writing to the brother
of a gentleman thus circumstanced, in 1659, he expresses himself in
this admirable manner : " For the rest, we must comitt to Providence
the successe of times and mitigation of proselytical fervours ; having
for my owne prticular a very great charity for all who sincerely adore
the blessed Jesus, our common & deare Saviour, as being full of
hope that God (however the pcsent zeale of some, & the scandals taken
by others at the instant [present] affliction of the Church of England
may transport them) will at last compassionate our infirmities, clarifie
our judgments, & make abatement for our ignorances, superstructures,
passions, & errours of corrupt tymes & interests, of which the Romish
persuasion can no way acquit herself, whatever the present prosperity
& secular polity may pretend. But God will make all things manifest
in his own tyme, onely let us possess ourselves in patience & charity.
This will cover a multitude of imperfections."
He speaks with great moderation of the Roman Catholics in general,
admitting that some of the Laws enacted against them might be miti
gated ; but of the Jesuits he had the very worst opinion, consider
ing them as a most dangerous Society, and the principal authors of
the misfortunes which befell King James IL, and the horrible perse
cutions of the Protestants in France and Savoy.
He must have conducted himself with uncommon prudence and dis
cretion, for he had personal friends in the Court of Cromwell, at the
same time that he was corresponding with his father-in-law Sir Richard
Browne, the Ambassador of King Charles II. at Paris; and at the
same period that he paid his Court to the King, he maintained his
intimacy with a disgraced Minister.
In his travels he made acquaintance not only with men eminent for
learning, but with men ingenious in every art and profession.
His manners we may presume to have been of the most agreeable
kind, for his company was sought by the greatest men, not merely by
inviting him to their own tables, but by their repeated visits to him at
his own house ; and this was equally the case with regard to the ladies
of many of whom he speaks in the highest style of admiration, affec
tion, and respect. He was master of the French, Italian, and Spanish

XI

languages. That he had read a great deal is manifest, but at what
time he found opportunities for study, it does not seem easy to say ; he
acknowledges himself to have been idle while at Oxford; and when on
his travels he had little time for reading, except when he stayed about
nineteen weeks in France, and at Padua, where he was likewise
stationary for some time. At Rome he remained a considerable time;
but whilst there he was so continually engaged in viewing the great
abundance of interesting objects to be seen in that City, that he could
have found little leisure for reading. When resident in England,
he was so much occupied in the business of his numerous offices, in
paying visits, in receiving company at home, and in examining what
ever was deemed worthy of curiosity or of scientific observation, that it
is astonishing to think how he found the opportunity to compose the
numerous books which he published, and the much greater number of
papers, on almost every subject, which still remain in manuscript * ; to
say nothing of the very extensive and voluminous Correspondence which
he appears to have carried on during the period of his long life, with
men of the greatest eminence in Church and State, and the most distin
guished for learning, both Englishmen and Foreigners. In this cor
respondence he does not seem to have made use of an amanuensis, and
he has left transcripts in his own hand of great numbers of Letters both
received and sent. He observes, indeed, in one of these, that he seldom
went to bed before 12, or closed his eyes before 1' o'clock.
He was happy in a wife of congenial dispositions with his own, of
an enlightened mind, who had read much, was skilled in etching and
painting, yet attentive to the domestic concerns of her household, and
a most affectionate mother. Of her personal beauty an idea may be
formed from the print accompanying this Work, engraved from a most
exquisite drawing in pencil by that celebrated French artist Nanteuil,
in 1650. In the Appendix is given a character of her by the Rev.
Dr. Bohun, who had the best opportunity of being acquainted with
it, from having resided in Mr. Evelyn's house for a considerable time
as tutor to their son. A few of her letters are also given, to prove
the truth of what the Doctor says of them.
* Amongst these is a Bible bound in 3 volumes, the pages filled with notes.

Xll

So many particulars of Mr. Evelyn have been given in the Biogra-
phia Britannica*, and in Mr. Chalmers's valuable memoir in the
Biographical Dictionary, that it is unnecessary to repeat them here ;
but some circumstances have been there omitted, and others, which are
there mentioned, admit of elucidation or addition, and such it is pro
posed to notice here, in addition to the foregoing personal sketch.
His grandfather, George, was not the first of the family who settled
in Surrey; John, father of this George, was of Kingston in 1520,
and married a daughter of David Vincent, Esq. Lord of the Manor of
Long Ditton, near Kingston, which afterwards came into the hands
of George, who there carried on the manufacture of gunpowder. He
purchased very considerable estates in Surrey, and three of his sons
became heads of three families, viz. Thomas, his eldest son, at Long
Ditton; John at Godstone, and Richard at Wotton. Each of these
three families had the title of Baronet conferred on them at different,
times, viz. at Godstone in 1660, Long Ditton in 1683, and Wotton
in 1713.
The r manufacture of gunpowder was carried on at Godstone as well
as at Long Ditton, but it does not appear that there ever was any mill
at Wotton, or that the purchase of that place was made with such a
view. " Nor does it appear from the words quoted in the "Biographia"
that Mr. Evelyn's grandfather planted the timber, with which Wotton
was, and always has been, so well stored. The soil produces it natu
rally, and it has at all times been carefully preserved, besides what has
been planted, furnishing abundance for cutting at proper seasons.
It may be not altogether incurious to observe, that though Mr.
Evelyn's father was a man ©f very considerable fortune, the first rudi
ments of this son's learning were acquired from the village school
master over the porch of Wotton Church. Of his progress at another
school,* and at college, he himself speaks with great humility; nor did
he add much to his stock of knowledge whilst he resided in the Middle
Temple, to which his father sent him, with intention that he should
apply to what he calls " an impolished study," which he says he never
liked. More will be said of this in a subsequent page.
* Second edition, 1793, vol. V.

fe

y

IITE1M1 OF WOTT0I CHU1CI, SUE.I8.ir.

Published December- 20^1018.

Xlll

The tlBiographia" does not notice his tour in France, Flanders, and
Holland, in 1641, when he made a short campaign as a Volunteer in
an English Regiment then in service in Flanders.
Nor does it notice his going with intent to have joined King
Charles I. at Brentford ; but after the battle there he desisted, consi
dering that his brother's, as well as his own estates, were so near
London as to be fully in the power of the Parliament. In this dan
gerous conjuncture he asked and obtained the King's leave to travel.
Of these Travels, and the observations he made therein, an account is
given in the Diary.
The public troubles coming on before he had engaged in any settled
plan for his future life, it appears that he had thoughts of living in
the most private manner, and that, with his brother's permission, he
had even begun to prepare a place for retirement at Wotton. Nor did
he afterwards wholly abandon this intention, if the plan of a College
which he sent to Mr. Boyle in 1659, was really formed on a serious
idea. The scheme of this is given at length in the " Biographia," and
in Dr. Hunter's Edition of the " Sylva" in 177^ ; but *L mav be observed
that he proposes it should not be more than 25 miles from London.
His answer to Sir George Mackenzie's panegyric on Solitude, in
which Mr. Evelyn takes the opposite part, and urges the preference to
which public employment and an active life is entitled, might be sup
posed a playful essay of one who, for the sake of argument, would con
trovert another's position, though in reality agreeing with his own
opinion, if we think him serious in two letters to Mr. Abr. Cowley,
dated 12 March and 24 Aug. 1666, in the former of which he writes :
" You had reason to be astonished at the presumption, not to name it
affront, that I, who have so highly celebrated Recesse, and envied it
in others, should become an advocate for the Enemie, which of all
others it abhors and flies from. I conjure you to believe that I am still
of the same mind, and that there is no person alive who dos more
honor and breathe after the life and repose you so happily cultivate and
advance by your example ; but, as those who prays'd Dirt, a Flea, and
the Gowte, so have I Public Employment in that trifling essay, and
that in so weake a style compared with my Antagonist's, as by that

XIV

alone it will appeare I neither was nor could be serious, and I hope
you believe I speake my very soule to you,
" Sunt enim Musis sua ludicra, mista Camoenis
Otia sunt  -"
In the other he says, " I pronounce it to you from my heart as oft
as I consider it, that I look on your fruitions with unexpressible emu
lation, and should think myself more happy than Crowned heads, were
I, as you, the arbiter of mine own life, and could break from those
gilded toys to taste your well-described joys with such a Wife and such
a Friend, whose conversation exceed all that the mistaken world calls
happiness." But, in truth, his mind was too active to admit of solitude,
however desirable it might at some times appear to him in Theory.
After he had settled at Deptford, which was] in the time of Crom
well, he kept up a constant correspondence with Sir Richard Browne
(his father-in-law) the King's Ambassador at Paris ; and though his
connection must have been known, it does not appear that he met with
any interruption from the Government here. Indeed, though he re
mained a decided Royalist, he managed so well as to have intimate
friends amongst those nearly connected with Cromwell ; and to this we
may attribute his being able to avoid taking the Covenant, which he
says he never did take. In 1659 he published " An Apology for the
Royal Party," and soon after he printed a paper which was of great
service to the King, entitled " The late News or Message from Brus-
sells unmasked," which was a pamphlet designed to represent the King
in the worst light.
On the Restoration we find him very frequently at Court, and he
became engaged in many public employments, still attending to his
studies and literary pursuits. Amongst these is particularly to be
mentioned the Royal Society, in the establishment and conduct of
which he took a very active part. He procured Mr. Howard's library
to be given to them ; and in 1667 the Arundelian Marbles to the Uni
versity of Oxford.
His first appointment to a public office was in 1662, as a Commis
sioner for reforming the buildings, ways, streets and incumbrances, and
regulating Hackney coaches in London. In the same year he sat as a

XV

Commissioner on an enquiry into the conduct of the Lord Mayor, &c.
concerning Sir Thomas Gresham's charities. In 1664 he was in a
Commission for regulating the Mint ; and in the same year he was
appointed one of the Commissioners for the care of the Sick and
Wounded in the Dutch War ; and was continued in the same employ
ment in the second War with that Country.
He was one of the Commissioners for the repair of St. Paul's Cathe
dral shortly before it was burnt in 1666.
In that year he was in a Commission for regulating the farming and
making Saltpetre.
In 1671 he was made a Commissioner of Plantations on the establish
ment of the Board, to which the Council of Trade was added in 1672.
In 1685 he was one of the Commissioners of the Privy Seal during
the absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who held that office), on his
going Lord Lieutenant to Ireland.
On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital in 1695, he was one of
the Commissioners ; and on 30 June 1696, he laid the first stone of
that building. He was appointed Treasurer with a salary of 200Z. a
year, but he says it was a long time before he received any part of it.
When the Czar of Muscovy came to England in 1698, he was de
sirous of having the use of Sayes Court, as being near the King's
Dock-yard at Deptford, where that Monarch proposed instructing
himself in the art of Ship-building. During his stay he did so much
damage, that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of .^.150 for it. He par
ticularly regrets the mischief done to his famous holly hedge, which
might have been thought beyond the reach of damage*.
Oct. 1699, his elder brother George Evelyn dying without male
issue, aged eighty-three, he succeeded to the paternal estate; and in
May following he quitted Sayes Court and went to Wotton, where he
passed the remainder of his life, except going occasionally to London,
where he had a house.
In the great storm in 1703 he mentions, in his last edition of the
Sylva, that above 1000 trees were blown down in sight of his house.
* It is said that one of Czar Peter'9 favourite recreations was to demolish the hedges by riding
through them in a wheelbarrow.

XVI

He died at his house in London, 27 Feb. 1705-6, in the eighty-sixth
year of his age, and was buried at Wotton. His Lady survived him
nearly three years, dying 9 Feb. 1708-9, in her seventy-fourth year,
and was buried near him at Wotton. The Inscriptions on their Tombs,
and on those of his father and mother, are subjoined. His personal
character was truly amiable. In the relative duties of father, husband,
and friend, few could exceed him.
Of Mr. Evelyn's children, one son, who died at the age of five, and
one daughter, who died at the age of nineteen, were almost prodigies.
The particulars of their extraordinary endowments, and the deep
manner in which he was affected by their deaths, may be seen in
pp. 309, 588, and cannot be read without exciting the most tender
emotions. Their epitaphs are also subjoined.
One daughter was well and happily settled ; another less happily,
but she did not survive her marriage more than a few months.
The only son who lived to the age of manhood inherited his father's
love of learning, and distinguished himself by several publications.
Mr. Evelyn's employment as a Commissioner of the Sick and Wounded
was a very laborious one, and from the nature of it must have been ex
tremely unpleasant. Almost the whole labour was in his department,
which included all the Ports between the River Thames and Portsmouth ;
he had to travel in all seasons and weathers, by land and by water, in the
execution of his office, to which he gave the strictest attention. It was
rendered still more unpleasant by the great difficulty which he found
in procuring money for support of the Prisoners. In the Library at
Wotton are copies of numerous letters to the Lord Treasurer and
Officers of State, representing, in the strongest terms, the great distress
of the poor men, and of those who had furnished lodging and neces
saries for them. At one time there were such arrears of payment to
the victuallers, that on landing additional sick and wounded, they lay
some time in the streets, the publicans refusing to receive them, and
shutting up their houses. After all this trouble and fatigue he found
as great difficulty in getting his accounts settled *. In Jan. 1665-6 he
.  . — .  1  .  . — ,  
* 2 Oct. 1665, he writes to the Lord Chancellor, Lord Arlington, Sir Willi&m Coventry, and
Sir Philip Warwick, complaining of want of money for the Prisoners, and praying that whilst he

XVII

formed a plan for an Infirmary at Chatham, which he sent to Mr.
Pepys, to be laid before the Admiralty, with his reasons for recom
mending it ; but it does not appear that it was carried into execution.
His business relating to the repair of St. Paul's (which, however,
was very short), that of a Commissioner of Trade and Plantations, and
for building Greenwich Hospital, were much better adapted to his in
clination and pursuits.
As a Commissioner of the Privy Seal in the reign of K. James II.
he had a difficult task to perform. He was most steadily attached to
the Church of England, and the King required the Seal to be put to
many things incompatible with the welfare of that Church. This on
some occasions he refused to do, particularly to a Licence to Dr. Obadiah
Walker to print Popish books * ; and on others absented himself, leav
ing it to his brother Commissioners to act as they thought fit. Such,
however, was the King's opinion of him, that he shewed no displeasure
on this account.
With respect to Mr. Evelyn's attempt to bring Col. Morley (who was
Cromwell's Lieutenant of the Tower, and who held it at the time im
mediately preceding the Restoration) over to the King's interest, an
imperfect account of it is given in the Biographia, partly taken from
the additions to Baker's Chronicle, published with a continuation in
1696. The fact is, that there was great friendship between these gentlemen,
and Mr. Evelyn did endeavour to engage the Colonel in the King's
interest ; he saw him several times, and put his life into his hands by
writing to him on 12 Jan. 1659-60 f; he did not succeed, and Col.
and his brother Commissioners adventure their persons, and all that is dear to them, in this
uncomfortable service, they may not be exposed to ruin, and to a necessity of abandoning their
care ; they have lost their officers and servants by the pestilence, and are hourly environed with
the saddest objects of perishing people. — " I have," says he, " 15 places full of sick men, where
they put me to unspeakable trouble ; the Magistrates and Justices, who should further us in aur
exigencies, hindering the people from giving us quarters, jealous of the contagion, and causing
them to shut their doors at our approach."
* Dr. Walker had been a member of the Church of England (see vol. I. p. 627), but had re
nounced it, and turned Papist.
t A copy of this letter, with a note of Mr. Evelyn's subjoined, is given among the Illustrations
at the end of this Volume, p. 665. C

xviu

Morley was too much his friend to betray him : but so far from the
Colonel having settled matters privately with Sir Anthony Ashley
Cooper, or General Monk *, as there stated, when the Restoration took
place, Col. Morley actually applied to Mr. Evelyn to obtain his pardon,
and Mr. Evelyn obtained it accordingly, though, as the latter states, the
Colonel was obliged to pay a sum of money. This could not have hap
pened if he had previously joined with General Monk.
There are some mistakes in the Biographia as to Mr. Evelyn s
Works. Dr. Campbell, who wrote the article in the original edition,
took some pains to vindicate Mr. Evelyn's book intitled "Navigation
and Commerce, their Original and Progress," from the charge of being
an imperfect work, unequal to the expectation excited by the title. But
the Doctor, who had not the information which this Journal so amply
affords on this subject, was not aware that what was so printed was
nothing more than an Introduction to the History of the Dutch War ;
a work undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express command of King
Charles II., and the materials for which were furnished by the Officers
of State. The completion of this work, after a considerable progress
had been made in it, was put a stop to by the King himself; for what
reason does not appear ; but perhaps it was found that Mr. Evelyn was
inclined to tell too much of the truth concerning a transaction which it
will be seen by his Journal he utterly reprobated. His copy of the
History, as far as he had proceeded, he put into the hands of his friend
Mr. Pepys of the Admiralty, who did not return it, and giving his
books and manuscripts to Magdalen College, Cambridge, it was hoped
it was there preserved. The Editor went to Cambridge for the purpose
of seeing it ; was favoured with access to the Library, and with the
most obliging personal attendance of the Hon. Mr. Fortescue, one of
the Fellows of the College ; but, after a diligent search for several
hours, it could not be found.
Dr. Campbell understood " The Mystery of Jesuitism" to be a single
volume, but there were three published in different years. The trans-

* Colonel Morley's name is scarcely mentioned in the account of General Monk's conduct on this
occasion written by John Price, D. D. (who was sent to him on the King's behalf, and had con-
linual intercourse with him) published in 1680, and reprinted by Baron Maseres in 1815.

xix

lation of the second was undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express desire
of Lord Clarendon and his son, as appears by a letter of Mr. E. to
Lord Cornbury, dated 9 February 1664. The third was translated by
Dr. Tonge for Mr. Evelyn ; but a fuller statement of this will be found
in vol. I. p. 371.
In giving a list of Mr. Evelyn's Publications, the Authors of the
Biographia say, " As several of these treatises were printed before the
Author's return to England, and others without his name, we must de
pend on the general opinion of the world, and the authority of Mr.
Wood, for their being his ; yet there is no great reason to suspect a
mistake." * They say, " We know nothing of the ' Mundus Muliebris ;
or, the Ladies' Dressing Room unlocked,' except that it has had a place
in the Catalogue of our Author's Works, from which therefore we have
no right to remove it." -\
There is no doubt of his being the author : under 1685 Mr. Evelyn,
in his account of his daughter Mary, says she " put in many pretty sym
bols in the ' Mundus Muliebris,' wherein is an enumeration of the im
mense variety of the modes and ornaments belonging to the sex."
In a letter to Lord Cornbury, dated 9 February 1664, he speaks of
having written a Play.
The Authors of the Biographia say, " The account which Mr. Boyle
received from Mr. Evelyn J of the method used by the Italians for pre
serving snow in pits, is an admirable specimen of that care with which
he registered his discoveries, as well as the curiosity which prompted
him to enquire into every thing worthy of notice, either natural or arti
ficial, in the countries through which he passed. It is much to be
regretted that a work so entertaining and instructive as the History of
his Travels would have been, appeared, even to so indefatigable a per
son as he was, a task too laborious for him to undertake ; for we should
then have seen clearly, and in a true light, many things in reference to
Italy which are now very indistinctly and partially represented; and we
should also have met with much new matter never touched before, and
of which we shall now probably never hear at all." §

* Biog. Brit. vol. V. 2d edit. p. 611. note E. + Id. p. 624. note S.
+ Boyle's Works, vol. II. p. 306. § Biog. Brit. vol. V. p. 610, note D

XX

What is thus said of Mr. Evelyn's travels is partly supplied in the
following volume, but not so fully as could be wished. That he made
many observations which will not be found here, appears by the above
quotation from Mr. Boyle, and by an account of the manner of making
bread in France, which he communicated to Mr. Houghton, a Fellow of
the Royal Society, who published it in some papers which he printed
weekly in 1681 and following years. It must be presumed that Mr.
Evelyn had made many other observations not found in this Journal,
and the notes of which have not been discovered amongst his papers.
From the numerous Authors who have spoken in high terms of this
Gentleman, we will insert the two following characters of him :
In the Biographia Dr. Campbell says, " It is certain that very few
Authors who have written in our language deserve the character of able
and agreeable writers so well as Mr. Evelyn, who, though he was ac
quainted with most sciences, and wrote upon many different subjects,
yet was very far, indeed the farthest of most men of his time, from
being a superficial writer. He had genius, he had taste, he had
learning; and he knew how to give all these a proper place in. his
works, so as never to pass for a Pedant, even with such as were least in
love with literature, and to be justly esteemed a polite Author by those
who knew it best." *
Mr. Horace Walpole (afterwards Earl of Orford), in his Catalogue
of Engravers, also gives the following admirably -drawn character of
him, p. 85, 86 : " If Mr. Evelyn had not been an Artist himself, as I
think I can prove he was, I should yet have found it difficult to deny
myself the pleasure of allotting him a place among the Arts he loved,
promoted, patronized ; and it would be but justice to inscribe his name
with due panegyric in these records, as I have once or twice taken the
liberty to criticise him : but they are trifling blemishes compared with
his amiable virtues and beneficence ; and it may be remarked, that the
worst I have said of him is, that he knew more than he always commu
nicated. It is no unwelcome satire to say, that a man's intelligence and
philosophy is inexhaustible. I mean not to write his Life, which may

* Biog. Brit. vol. V. p. 614, note I.

xxi

be found detailed in the new edition of his « Sculptura,' in Collins's
' Baronetage,' in the ' General Dictionary,' and in the new ' Biogra
phical Dictionary;' but I must observe, that his life, which was extended
to 86 years, was a course of enquiry, study, curiosity, instruction, and
benevolence. The works of the Creator, and the minute labours of the
creature, were all objects of his pursuit. He unfolded the perfection of
the one, and assisted the imperfection of the other. He adored from
examination ; was a courtier that flattered only by informing his prince,
and by pointing out what was worthy for him to countenance ; and
really was the Neighbour of the Gospel, for there was no man that might
not have been the better for him. Whoever peruses a list of his works
will subscribe to my assertion. He was one of the first promoters of
the Royal Society ; a patron of the ingenious and the indigent ; and
peculiarly serviceable to the lettered world ; for besides his writings and
discoveries, he obtained the Arundelian Marbles for the University of
Oxford, and the Arundelian Library for the Royal Society. — Nor is it
the least part of, his praise, that he, who proposed to Mr. Boyle the
erection of a Philosophical College for retired and speculative persons,
had the honesty to write in defence of active life against Sir George
Mackenzie's Essay on Solitude. He knew that retirement, in his own
hands, was industry, and benefit to mankind ; but in those of others,
laziness and inutility."
His son, Mr. John Evelyn, was of Trinity College, Oxford, and when
about 15 years old he wrote that elegant Greek Poem which is prefixed
to the second edition of the " Sylva." He translated Rapin on Gardens,
in four books, written in Latin verse. His Father annexed the second book
of this to the second edition of his " Sylva." He also translated from
the Greek of Plutarch the life of Alexander the Great, printed in the
fourth volume of " Plutarch's Lives, by several Hands ;" and from the
French, the History of the Grand Viziers Mahomet and Achmet Co-
progli. There are several Poems of his, of which some are printed in
Dryden's Miscellanies, and more in Nichols's Collection of Poems.
In December 1688 he was presented to the Prince of Orange at
Abington by Col. Sidney and Col. Berkley, and was one of the volunteers

XXII

in Lord Lovelace's troop, when his Lordship secured Oxford for the
Prince. In 1690 he purchased the place of Chief Clerk of the Trea
sury ; but in the next year he was by some means removed from it by
Mr. Guy, who succeeded in that office. In August 1692 he was made
one of the Commissioners of the Revenue in Ireland, from whence he
returned to England in 1696 in very ill health, and died 24th March,
1698, in his father's life-time.
He married Martha, daughter and coheir of Richard Spenser, Esq.
a Turkey merchant, by whom he had two sons and three daughters.
The eldest son, and the eldest daughter, Martha-Mary, and youngest
daughter, Jane, died infants. The surviving daughter, Elizabeth, mar
ried Simon Harcourt, Esq. son of the Lord Chancellor Harcourt.
September 18, 1705, the son John, who had succeeded his grandfather
at Wotton, married Anne, daughter of Edward Boscawen, Esq. of the
county of Cornwall ; and by letters patent, dated 30 July 1713, was cre
ated a Baronet. He inherited the virtue and the taste for learning, as
well as the patrimony, of his ancestors, and lived at Wotton universally
loved and respected. He built a Library there, 45 feet long, 14 wide,
and as many high, for the reception of the large and curious collection
of books made by his grandfather, father, and himself, and where they
now remain. He was a Fellow of the Royal Society, was long the
First Commissioner of the Customs, and died July 15, 1763, in the
eighty-second year of his age.
By his lady, who died before him, he had several children, and was
succeeded by John the eldest, who married Mary daughter of Hugh
Boscawen, Viscount Falmouth, and died 11 June, 1767, in the sixty-
first year of his age. He .was Clerk of the Green Cloth to Frederick
Prince of Wales, father of the present King, to this King when Prince
of Wales, and after lie came to the Crown. He represented the Bo
rough of Helston in several Parliaments, and to the time of his death.
He had only one son, Frederick, who succeeded to the title and estate,
and three daughters. Of the daughters, two died unmarried ; the third,
Augusta, married the Rev. Dr. Henry Jenkin, Rector of Wotton and
Abinger, but she died without issue. Sir Frederick was in the army
in the early part of his life, and was in Elliot's Light-Horse when

xxm

that Regiment so highly distinguished themselves in the famous
Battle of Minden in Germany in 1759. He married Mary, daugh
ter of William Turton, Esq. of Staffordshire, and, dying without
issue in 1812, he left his estates to his Lady. She lived at Wotton,
where she fully maintained the honour and great respect which had
so long attended the family there. Her taste for botany was displayed
in her garden and green-house, where she had a curious collection of
exotic, as well as native, shrubs and flowers. The Library shared her
attention ; besides making additions to it, she had a complete Cata
logue arranged by Mr. Upcott of the London Institution.
This lady by her will returned the estate to the family, devising it to
John Evelyn, Esq. who descended from George Evelyn, the purchaser
of this estate in 1579.

XXIV

The following are Epitaphs to the memory of the writer of this
Diary, and part of bis family, interred in the Dormitory adjoining Wot
ton Church, of which: an engraving is annexed.
For his Grandfather, who settled at Wotton, on an alabaster monu
ment, written by Dr. Comber, Master of Trinity College,, Cambridge,
a.nd afterwards Dean of Durham. D. O. M. S.
Geqrgio Evelino, Arm. non minus
Vitae et Morum exemplo, quam dignitate
conspicuo, quem plenum annis (inoffensae
vitae decurso itinere, quale sibi opta-
runt magni ilh, qui inane strepitum
tranquillitati posthabendum putarunt)
. Mors immatura abstulit, namq;
rebus omnibus, Deo omnia bene vertente,
affluens, quibus vita beata efficitur,
repetito non infelici delectu matrimo
nio, Liberos ad filios 16, octoque-
filias, pene octogeriarius decessit seriex ;
Parenti charissimo, et bene merenti
Richardus Evelinus, tiliorum natu minimus,
Monumentum cum carmine mcerens
posuit, quod non tarn Patris vivo hominum
ore victuri, quam propria? Pietatis
testimonium esset.
Obiit 30 die Maii, An. Dom. 1603.
^Etatis suae 73.
On another alabaster monument are the figures of a man and his wife
kneeling, and five children; below is this inscription :
Epitaph ium ,
vere generosi, et praenobilis Viri, D. Richardi
. Evelini, armigeri, in agro Surriensi, hie
subter in terra conditi.
Quem Pietas, Probitas, claris natalibus ortum,
Prolis amor dulcis, Vitaq. labe carens,
Religionis opus, quem Vota Precesq; suorum,
Et morum niveus candor, aperta manus,
Reddebant olim charum patriaeq; suisq;
Vertitur in cineres hac Evelinus humo.
Lector, ne doleas, cum sis mortalis, abito
Et sortis non sis immemor ipse tuae.

I. 6bnef I/d'-LSi^.

;<VM,-**f

*^V" .KttW- ttf^.

tarta,-

x/

^ ^%^

471/ tL/cZ.ltltf U

^rifsrwicm/ CAu/lc/i; ^jAewt-na /ne ^&mAj c/-i_John. Oi/elyn. cit a:. a?uz.^lla'/.i/ /icj///ti/e.

JUAfcrhed J>ec.rzJ?U&& byJ3iervy GjBnun. Cbnduxt Street, Zondon..

XXV

Qbiit Gjuinquagenarius
corporis statu vegeto, vicesimo die Decembri
Salutis humanae
16*40, Liberorum quinq. Pater,
relictis quatuor superstitibus, tribus
cm I nine Pimi

scil. filiis cum
unica fantum filia.
Festinantes sequimur.
On another monument, fixed to the same wall :
To
the precious memory of
Ellen Evelyn,
the dearly beloved wife of Richard Evelyn, Esq.
a rare example of Piety, Loyalty, Prudence, and Charity,
a happy Mother of five Children,
George, John, Richard, Elizabeth, and Jane ;
who in the 37th year of her age,
the 22d of her marriage,
and the 1635 th of Man's Redemption,
put on Immortality,
leaving her name as a monument of her perfections,
and her Perfections as a precedent for imitation.
Of her great worth to know, who seeketh more,
Must mount to Heaven, where she is gone before.
On a white marble, covering a Tomb shaped like a coffin raised about
three feet above the floor, is inscribed :
Here lies the Body
of John Evelyn Esq,
of this place, second son
of Richard Evelyn Esq;
who having serv'd the Publick
in several employments, of which that
of Commissioner of the Privy-Seal in the
Reign of King James the 2d was most
honourable, and perpetuated his fame
by far more lasting monuments than
those of Stone or Brass, his learned
and usefull Works, fell asleep the 27 day
of February 1705-6, being the 86 year
of his age, in full hope of a glorious
Resurrection, thro' Faith in Jesus Christ.
Living in an age of extraordinary
Events and Revolutions, he learnt
(as himself asserted) this Truth,
which pursuant to his intention
is here declared —
That all is vanity which is not honest,
d

xxvi
and that there is no solid wisdom
but in real Piety.
Of five Sons and three Daughters
born to him from his most
vertuous and excellent Wife,
Mary, sole daughter and heiress
of Sir Rich. Browne of Sayes
Court near Deptford in Kent,
onely one daughter, Susanna
married to William Draper
Esq; of Adscomb in this
County, survived him ; the
two others dying in the
flower of their age, and
all the Sons very young ex
cept one named John, who
deceased 24 March 1698-9,
in the 45 year of his age,
leaving one son, John, and
one daughter, Elizabeth.
On another monument at the head of, and like the former :
Mary Evelyn,
the best Daughter, Wife,
and Mother,
the most accomplished of women,
beloved, esteemed, admired,
and regretted, by all who knew her,
is deposited in this stone coffin,
according to her own desirej as near
as could be to her dear Husband
John Evelyn,
with whom she lived almost
Threescore years,
and survived not quite three, dying
at London, the 9 of Feb. 1708-9,
in the 74th year of her age. >
In the Church of St. Nicholas, Deptford, on the East wall, to the
South of the altar, is a marble mural tablet with the following In
scriptions to the two Children of Mr. Evelyn, whose early loss he has
so feelingly lamented in his Diary :
R. Evelyn. I. F.
Quiescit hoc sub marmore,
Una quiescit quicquid est amabile,
Patres quod optent, aut quod orbi lugeant ;
Genas decentes non, ut ante, risus
Lepore condit amplius ;

xxvn
Morum venustas, quanta paucis.contigit,
Desideratur omnibus.
Linguae, Latina, Gallica,
Quas imbibit cum lacte materno, tacent.
Tentarat Artes, artiumque principiis
Pietatis elementa hauserat.
Libris inhaesit improbo labore
Ut sola mors divelleret.
Quod indoles, quod disciplina, quod labor
Possint, ab uno disceres.
Puer stupendus, qualis hie esset senex
Si fata vitae subministrassent iter!
Sed aliter est visum Deo :
Correptus ille febricula levi jacet,
Jacent tot una spes Parentum !
Vixit Ann. V. M. V. Ill super D.
Eheu ! delicias breves.
Quicquid placet mortale, non placet diu,
Quicquid placet mortale, ne placeat nimis.
Mary Evelyn,
Eldest Daughter of John Evelyn,
and Mary his wife, borne the last day of
September 1665, att Wootton in
the County of Surrey. A beautifull
young woman, endowed with shining
Qualities both of body and mind, infinitly
pious, the delight of her Parents and Friends.
She dyed 17 March 1 685 at the
Age of 19 Years, 5 Months, 17 Dayes,
regretted by all persons of worth
that knew her value.
A tablet adjoining the foregoing, is thus inscribed :
M.S.
Neere this place are deposited ye bodys
of Sir Richard Browne of Sayes-Court in Deptford, Knt;
Of his wife Dame Joanna Vigorus of Langham in Essex,
deceased in Nov. 1618 aged 74 years.
This Sir Richard was younger son of an ancient family of
Hitcham in Suffolk, seated afterwards at Horsly in Essex, who (being
Student in the Temple) was by Robert Dudley, the great Earle of Leicester,
taken into the service of the Crowne when he went
Governor of the United Netherlands, and was afterwards
by Queene Elizabeth made Clearke of the Greene Cloth,
in which honorable office he also continued under King James untill the
time of his death, May 1604, aged 65 yeares ;
Of Christopher Browne, Esq. son and heire of Sir Richard, who
deceased in March 1645, aged 70 yeares ;
Of Thomasin his wife, dar of Benjamin Gonson of Much Bado

XXV111
in Essex, Esq. whose grandfather William Gonson, and father Benjamin,
were successively Treasurers of the Navy to King Hen: VIII., to K. Ed. VI.,
to Queene Mary, and Q. Elizabeth ; and died June 1638, aged 75 years ;
Of Sir Richard Browne Knt. and Baronet, onely son of Christopher ;
Of his wife Dame Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Pretyman of
Dry-field in Glocester shire, who deceased vi Octobr
1652, aged 42 years.
This Sir Richard was Gentleman of the Privy Chamber to
K. Charles ye First, and Cleark of the Council of his Ma% and to
K. Charles ye Second, and (after several foraigne and honorable employments)
continued Resident in the Court of France from K. Char, the I. and
from K. Char. IId to the French-Kings Lewes XIII. and Lewes XIV. from
the years 1641 (the beginning of our un-naturall civile-warr) untill the happy
Restauration of K. Char.ye lld 1660 ; deceased xn. Feb. A0 1682-3 aged 78 yrs ;
and (according to ancient custome) willed to be interred in this place.
These all deceasing in the true Faith of Christ,
hope, through his merits, for a joyfull and blessed
Resurrection. X. A. P. D.
This Title was erected by John Evelyn Esq. of
Sayes-Court, who maried Mary sole daughter
and heiresse of Sir Richard.
Arms. — Quarterly, 1. Or, a chief Sable, an augmentation granted
to Browne; 2. Gules, a griffin passant Or, a chief of the second —
Browne ; 3. Argent, a fret G. 4. Quarterly, indented Or and G.
In the Church-yard is the Tomb of Sir Richard, with this inscription ;
M. S. Richardus Browne de Sayes Court Deptford iae in comitatu Cantii,
eques auratus et baronettus, Regibus Carolo I. et II. a sanctioribus conciliis
secretarius, necnon utriusque Regis totos viginti annos adLudovicosXIII.etXIV.
Galliae Reges prplegatus. ^Etatis confectus in ccelestem patriam migrans
exuvias corporis hie deposuit aetatis anno 78, reparatae salutis 1683, unica
relicta filia. Johanni Evelyno nupta. Monumentum in parte ecclesiae interiore
GenerP.P.

KALENDARIUM.

1 WAS borne at Wotton, in the county of Surrey, 31st Oct. 1620,
after my Father had been married about 7 yeares *, and my Mother
had borne him two daughters and one sonn, viz. Eliza 28th Nov.
1614; Jane 16 Feb. 1615; George 18 June 1617. They had another
sonn after me, Richard, born 4th Decr. 1622.
My Father, named Richard, was of a sanguine complexion, mixed
with a dash of choler : his haire inclining to light, which tho' very
thick became hoary by that time he was 30 yeares of age ; it was
somewhat curled towards the extremity ; his beard, which he wore a
little picked, as the mode was, of a brownish colour, and so continued
to the last, save that it was somewhat mingled with grey haires about
his cheekes : which, with his countenance, was cleare, and fresh co-
lour'd, his eyes quick and piercing, an ample forehead, manly aspect ;
low of stature, but very strong. So exact and temperate, that I haue
heard he had never been surprised by excesse, being ascetic and sparing.
His wisdom was greate, his judgment acute ; of solid discourse, affable,
humble, and in nothing affected ; of a thriving, neate, silent, and
methodical genius ; discreetly severe, yet liberal on all just occasions,
to his children, strangers, and servants ; a lover of hospitality ; of a
singular and Christian moderation in all his actions ; a Justice of the
Peace and of the Quorum ; he served his Country as High Sheriff for
Surrey and Sussex together f. He was a jstudious decliner of honours

* He was married at St. Thomas's Church, Southwark, 27 Jan. 1613.
f Formerly the two Counties had, in general, only one Sheriff, though sometimes distinct ones ;
in 1637 each County had its Sheriff, and so it has continued ever since.
VOL. I. B

2
honours and titles, being already in that esteem with his country that
they could have added little to him beside their burden *. He was a per
son of that rare conversation, that upon frequent recollection, and calling
to mind passages of his life and discourse, I could never charge him
with the least passion or inadvertence. His estate was esteem'd about
,§£.4,000 per ann. well wooded and full of timber.
My Mother's name was Elianor, sole daughter f and heyresse of John
Standsfield Esq; of an ancient and honorable family (though now ex
tinct) in Shropshire, by his wife Elianor Comber of a good and well
knowne house in Sussex. She was of proper personage; of a browne
complexion ; her eyes and haire of a lovely black ; of constitution in-
clyned to a religious melancholy, or pious sadnesse ; of a rare memory
and most exemplary life ; for ceconomie and prudence esteemed one of
the most conspicuous in her Country. . •
So much touching my parents ; nor was it reasonable I should speake
lesse of them to whom I owe so much.
Wotton, the mansion house of my father, left him by my grandfather,
(now my eldest brother's) is situated in the most Southern part of the
Shire, and tho' in a vally, yet really upon part of Lyth Hill, one of the
most eminent in Engl'd J for the prodigious prospect to be seen from
it* sum'it, tho' by few observed. From it may be discerti'd 12 or 13'
Counties, with part -of the Sea on the Coast of Sussex, in a serene day;
the house large and ancient, suitable to those hospitable times, and so
sweetly environed with those delicious streams and venerable woods, as
in the judgement of Strangers-a$ well as Englishmen it may be com
pared to one of the most pleasant Seates in the Nation, and most tempt
ing for a great person and a wanton purse to render it conspicuous : it
has rising grounds, meadows, woods, and water, in abundance. "
The distance from London little more than 20 miles §'/ and yet so
securely placed as if it were 100; three miles from Dorking, which
 ¦  -X  .  __  ,_  ,  „;,ti|. ,,.y., ,  __:  . 
* " Rd the 29. Octr 1630, of Rich* Evlinge of Wottone in the Countye of Surr' Esq; by waie of
composic'one to the use of his Ma*^ ' being apointed by his Matie Collector for the same, for his
Fine for not apearinge at the time and place apoynted for receavinge order of Kth'dod, the sommb of
fivetey pound I say receaved Tho. Crxmes." . ,i:-tii/.. .*f ! m. '
t She was born 17 Nov. 1598, near Lewes in Sussex.  J 993 feet.
§ Computed miles; it is a little more than 2G measured miles. .,. .,„,, >,,

f''thv'' DwteumS del

tfc/m. o co fir- sculp

}/r//// (_jyc///,/L. (-J.j/?,

i Mwny /y7Z.

m- /fa/ ''fJ^ifor/r.rj' ' .

1624—1627.] 3
serves it abundantly with prbvisions as well of land as sea; 6"lVom
Gilford, 12 from Kingston *. I will say nothing of the ayre, because
the prseeminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil being dry and
sandy; but I should speake much of the gardens, fountaines, and groves,
that adorne it, were they not as generaly knowne to be amongst the
most natural, and (til this later and universal luxury of the whole
nation, since abounding in such expenses) the most magnificent that
England afforded, and which indeede gave one of the first examples to
that elegancy since so much in vouge and follow'd in the managing
of their waters, and other ornaments of that nature. Let me add,
the contiguity of five or six Mannors f, the patronage of the livings
about it, and, what is none of the least advantages, a good neighbour
hood. All which conspire to render it fit for the present possessor, my
worthy brother, and his noble lady J, whose constant liberality give
them title both to the place and the affections of all that know them.
Thus, with the poet,
Nescio qua fiatale solum dulcedine cunctos
Ducit, et im'emores non sinit esse sui.
1624. I was not initiated into any rudiments till I was four years
of age, and then one Frier taught us at the church porch of Wotton ;
and I perfectly remember the great talk and stir about il Conde Gun-
damar, Ambassr from Spain (for near about this time was the match
of our Prince with the Infanta proposed).
1625. I was this year sent by my Father to Lewes in Sussex, to
be with my, Grandfather Standsfield, with whom I passed my child
hood. This was the year in which the pestilence was so epidemical
that there dy'd in London 5,000 a week; and I well remember the
Strict watcUes and examinations upon the ways as we passed.
1626. My picture was drawn in oyle by one Chanterell, no ill
painter. >. ' vO-
1627- My Grandfather Standsfield dyed this yeare on 5 Feb. : I
remember the" solemnity at his funeral. He was buried in the parish
¦church of All Soules, where my Grandmother, his second wife, erected
a monument. About this time was the consecration of the Church of,
* 8, aad 14. + 7 Manors, 2 Advowsons, and a Chapel of Sir John Cotton. % Lady Cotton, widow.

4 £1628—1634.
South Mailing, near Lewes, the building whereof was chiefly pro
cured by my Grandfather, who having the Impropriation, gave 20/.
a-vear out of it to this Church. I afterwards sold the Impropriation.
I layd one of the first stones at the building of the Church, which was
consecrated by Bishop Field, Bishop of Oxf d, the sermon being
preached by Mr. Coxhall, afterwards minister there.
It was not till the yeare 1628 that I was put to learne my Latine
rudiments, and to write, of one Citolin, a Frenchman, in Lewes. I
was put to schoole to Mr. Potts, in the Cliffe at Lewes ; and in 1630
from thence to the Free-schole at Southover neere the town, of which
one Agnes Morley had been the foundresse, and now Edward Snatt
\vas the master, under whom I remained till I was sent to the Univer
sity*. This yeare my Grandmother (wth whom I sojourn'd) being
married to one Mr. Newton, a learned and most religious gent., we
went from the Cliff to dwell at his house in Southover.
1631. There happen'd an extraordinary dearth in England, corne
bearing an excessive price ; and, in imitation of what I had seene my
Father do, I began to observe matters more punctualy, which I did
use to set downe in a blanke almanac.
21st Oct. 1632. My eldest Sister was married to Edwd Darcy
Esq; who little deserved so excellent a person. I was soone afterwards
sent for into Surrey, and my Father would willingly have weaned me
from my fondness of my too indulgent Grandmother, intending to
have placed me at Eaton ; but I was so terrified at the report of the
severe discipline there, that I was sent back to Lewes, which per-
versenesse of mine I have since a thousand times deplor'd. Whiles - 1
was now trifling, at home I saw London, where I lay one night onely.
The next day I dined at Beddington, where I was much delighted
with the gardens and curiosities. Thence we returned to the Lady
Darcy's at Sutton, thence to Wotton, and the 16th of Aug. 1633,
back to Lewes.
1634, My Father was appointed Sheriff for Surrey and Sussex before
they were disjoyned. He had 116 servants in liverys, every one livery'd
in greene sattin doublets ; divers gentlemen and persons of quality
* Long after, Mr. Evelyn paid great respect to this gentleman, as appears by his letters.

1634—I635.] 5
waited on him in the same garbe and habit, which at that time (when
30 or 40 was the usual retinue of the. High Sheriff) was esteem'd a
great matter. Nor was this out of the least vanity that my Father
exceeded (who was one of the greatest decliners of it), but because
he could not refuse the civility of his friends and relations, who vo
luntarily came themselves, or sent in their servants. But my Father
wa.s afterwards most unjustly and spitefully molested by yl jeering jud°-e
Richardson*, for repreeVing the execution of a woman, to gratifie my
L. of Lindsey, then Admiral ; but out of this he emerged with as much
honor as trouble.
1 5 December 1 634. My Sister Darcy departed this life, being arriv'd
to her 20 yeare of age, in vertue advanc'd beyond her yeares, or the
merit of her husband, the worst of men. She had been brought to
bed the 2d of June before, but the infant died soon after her. My
Sister was interr'd in a very honorable manner in our dormitory joyn-
ing to the parish church f, where now her monument stands.
1635. My deare Mother departed this life upon the 29th September,
about the 37th of her age and 22d of her marriage ; her death has
tened by excessive grief for the losse of her daughter. When near her
death, she summoned all her children then living (I shall never forget
it), and express'd herself in a manner so heavenly, with instructions so^
pious and Christian, as *nade us strangely sensible of the extraordinary
losse then imminent ; after which, embracing every one of us, she
gave to each a ring, with her blessing. Then taking my Father by
the hand, she recom'ende'd us to his care ; and having importun'd him
that what he design'd to bestow on her funeral he would rather dispose
among ye poore, she labour'd to compose herselfe for the blessed
change which she now expected. There was not a servant in the
house whom she did not expressly send for, advise, and infinitely affect
with her counsell.
* He was made a Chief Justice of the Common Pleas in 1626,, and of the King's Bench in 1631.
There is a monument for him in Westminster Abbey. Fuller says he lived too near the time to
•speake fully of him. He took on him to issue an order- against keeping wakes on Sundays, which
Laud, then Bishop of Bath and .Wells, took up as an infringement of the rights of Bishops, and
got him severely reprimanded at the Council Table. He was owner of Starborough Castle in Ling-
field in Surrey. Manning and Bray's History of Surrey, vol. II. p. 345.. t Of Wotton.

6 [1636—1637.
Though her Physicians, Dr. Merwell, Dr. Clement, and Dr. Rand,
had given over all hopes of her recovery, and Sr Sanders Duncombe
tried his celebrated and famous powder, she was many days impairing,
and endur'd the sharpest conflicts of her sicknesse with admirable
patience and most Christian resignation, retaining her intellectuals and
ardent affections for her dissolution to the very article of her departure.
When near her dissolution, she laid her hand on every one of her
children, and taking solemn leave of my Father, with elevated heart
and eyes she quietly expired, and resign'd her soule to God. She was
interr'd, as neere as might be, to her daughter Darcy, the 3d of October,
at night, but with no meane ceremony.
* 1636. This yeare being extreamely dry, the pestilence much in
creased in London and divers parts of England.
13 Feb. I was admitted into the Middle Temple, London, though
absent, and as yet at schoole.
3d April, 1637; - 1 left schoole, where, till about the last yeare, I
had been extreamly remisse in my studies, so as I went to the Univer-
sitie rather out of shame of abiding longer at schoole, than for any
fitnesse, as by sad experience I found, which put me to re-learne all.
that I had neglected, or but perfunctorily gain'd.
10 May. I was admitted a fellow com'uner of Baliol College, Ox
ford, and on the 29th I was matriculated in the Vestry at St, Marie's,
where I subscribed the Articles and took the oaths, Dr. Baily, head
of St. Johns, being Vice Chancelor, afterwards Bp. The Fellow
Com'uners in Balliol were no more exempt from exercise than the
meanest scholars there, and my Father sent me thither to one Mr.
Geo. Bradshaw, (nomen invisum ! yet the son of an excellent father,
beneficed in Surrey f .) I ever thought my Tutor had parts enough, hut
as his ambition made him much suspected of ye College, so his grudge
to Dr. Lawrence, the governor of it, (whom he afterwards supplanted)
tooke up so much of his tyme, that he seldom or never had the oppor
tunity to discharge his duty to his scholars. This I perceiving, asso-
* An account of the visit made by K. Charles I. and his Queen to the University of Oxford, in
Sept. 1636, is given at the end of this Volume, in a letter from George Evelyn, Esq. to his Father.
\ Rector of Ockh'am.

163.7—1638.] 2
ciated myself with one Mr. James Thicknesse, (then a young man of
the Foundation, afterwards a Fellow of the House,) by whose learned
and friendly conversation I received great advantage. At my first
arival, Dr. Parkhurst was Master ; and after his discease, Dr. Law
rence, a chaplaine of his Ma'ties and Margaret Professor, succeeded,
an accute and learned person ; nor do I much reproch his severity, con
sidering that the extraordinary remissenesse of discipline had (til his
coming) much detracted from the reputation of that Colledg.
There came in my tyme to the Coll: one Nathaniel Conopios out of
Greece, from Cyrill the Patriarch of Constantinople, who returning
many years after, was made (as I understand) Bishop of Smyrna. He
was the first I ever saw drink coffee,. wch custom came not into England .
till 30 years after. * »
After I was somewhat settled there in my formalities (for then was
the University exceedingly regular, under the exact discipline of Wil
liam Lawd, Archbishop of Canterbury, then Chancelor,) I added, as
benefactor to the Library of the Coll. these books :
Zanchii Opera, vols. 1, 2, 3.
Granada in Thomam Aquinatem, vols. I, 2, 3,
Novarini Electa sacra, and Cresolii Anthblogia sacra, authors (it
seems) desired by the students of Divinity there.
1637- At Christmas the Gentlemen of Exeter College presented a
Comedy to the University.
I was admitted into the dauncing and vaulting Schoje, of which late
activity one Stokes, the Master, set forth a pretty hook, which was
published with many witty elogies before it*.
1638. My Father order'd that I should begin to manage myne
owne expenses, which till then my Tutor had done ; at which I was
much satisfied.
* It being now become extremely scarce, the title of it is here given : " The Vaulting Master,
or the Art of Vaulting. Reduced taa method comprized under certain Rules. Illustrated by ex
amples, and now primary set forth, by Will. Stokes. Printed for Richard Davis in Oxon, 1655."
A small oblong quaHoTwitfi' the author's portrait prefixed, and a number of plates beautifully
engraved (most probably by Glover) representing feats of activity on horseback that appear extra
ordinary ones at this time ofday. From the communication of James Bindley, Esq.a gentleman
whose collection of scarce and valuable books is perhaps hardly to be equalled.

8 [1639—1640.
1639. I began to look on the rudiments of musick, in which I af
terwards ariv'd to some formal knowledge, though to small perfection
of hand, becaus I was so frequently diverted by inclinations to newer
trifles. 20 May. Accompany'd with one Mr. Jo. Crafford, (who after
wards being my fellow-traveller in Italy there chang'd his religion,) I
tooke a journey of pleasure to see ye Sumersetshire Bathes, Bristoll,
Cirencester, Malmesbury, Abington, and divers other townes of lesser
note, and returned the 25th.
1640. Came my bro. Richard from schole to be my chamber-
feUow at the University. He was admitted the next day, and matricu
lated the 31st.
11th April. I went to London to see the solemnity of his Maties
riding through the Citty in state to the Short Parliament, which began
the 13th following, a very glorious and magnificent sight, the King
circled with his royal diademe and the affections of his people.
27th April. I went to London to be resident in the Middle Temple.
My being at the University, in regard of these avocations, was of very
small benefit to me.
5th May was the Parliament unhappily dissolved.
20th May I return'd with my bro. Geo. to Wotton, who on the 28th
of the same month was married at Aldbury to Mrs. Caldwell (an heiress
of an ancient Leicestershire family *).
10th June I repaired with my Brother to the Tearme, to goe into our
new lodgings, (that were formerly in Essex Court,) being a very hand
some apartment just over against the Hall-Court, but four pair of stairs
high, w'ch gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect, but did not
much contribute to the love of that impolish'd study, to w'ch (I suppose)
my Father had design'd me, when he paid 1451. to purchase our pre
sent lives, and assignments afterwards.
London, and especially the Court, were at this period in frequent dis
orders, and greate insolencies were com'itted by the abus'd and too
happy Citty: in particular the Bish. of Canterbury's Palace at Lam-
* A daughter of Daniel Caldwell, Esq. by Mary, daughter of Geo. Duncomb, Esq. of Albury.
She died 15 May 1644, and he afterwards married the widow of Sir John Cotton.

1640—1641.] 9
beth was assaulted by a rude rabble from South wark; my Lord Cham-
berlayne imprison'd, and many scandalous libells and invectives scat-
ter'd about the streetes, to yu reproch of Government and the fermen
tation of our since distractions.
27th June. My Father's indisposition augmenting, by advice of the
physitians he repaired to the Bathe.
7 July. My brother Geo. and 1 understanding ye peril my Father
was in, rod post from Guildford towards him, and found him extraor
dinary weake ; but on 8 Sept. I returned home with him in his litter.
15 Oct. I went to the Temple, it being Michaelmas Tearme *.
30th. I saw his Ma' tie (com'ing from his Northern Expedition) ride
in pomp and a kind of ovation, with all the marks of a happy peace,
restor'd to the affections of his people, being conducted through Lond:
with a most splendid cavalcade ; and on 3 Nov. following (a day never
to be mention'd without a curse) to that long, ungratefull, foolish, and
fatal Parliament, the beginning of all our sorrows for twenty yeares
after, and the period of the most happy Monarch in the world : Quis
taliafando ! f
My Father's disorder appeared to be a dropsy, an indisposition the
most unsuspected, being a person so exemplaryly temperate. On the
24th Dec. he died, retaining his senses and piety to the last, which he
most tenderly expressed in blessing us, whom he now left to the world,
and the Worst of times, whilst he was taken from the evill to come.
1641. 2 January. We at night followed the mourning hearse to
the Church at Wotton, when, after a sermon and funeral oration, my
Father was interred neere his formerly erected monument, and mingled
with the ashes of our Mother, his deare wife. Thus we were bereft of
both our parents in a period when- we most of all stood in need of theire
counsell and assistance, especially myselfe, of a raw, vaine, uncertain,
and very unwary inclination ; but so it pleased God to make tryall of
mv conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest and most prodigious hazard
that ever the youth of England saw. If I did not amidst all this
  — — ^____— — — — —  r .' **  '  " — ' 
* The Term then began in October.
t Notwithstanding this expression, it will afterwards appear that Mr. Evelyn by no means
approved of arbitrary or tyrannical measures.
VOL. I. C

K) [1641.
peach my liberty, nor my vertue, with the rest who made shipwreck of
both, it was more the infinite goodness and mercy of God than the
least discretion of myne owne, who now thought of nothing but the
pursuite of vanity, and the confused imaginations of young men.
15. I went to London, to heare and see the famous tryall of the
Earle of Strafford, who on 22d March before had been summon'd
before both Houses of Parliament, and now appear'd in Westminster
Hall, which was prepar'd with scaffolds for the Lords and Com'ons,
who together with the King, Queene, Prince, and flower of the
Noblesse, were spectators and auditors of the greatest malice and the
greatest innocency that ever met before so illustrious an assembly.
The E. of Arundell and Surrey, Earle Martial of England, was made
High Steward. The sequel is too well known.
27- Came over from Holland the young Prince of Orange, with
a splendid equipage, to make love to his Ma' ties eldest daughter, the
now Princess Royal.
That evening was celebrated the pompous funerall of the Duke of
Richmond, who was carried in effigie in an open chariot thro' London
in great solemnity.
12th May. I beheld on Tower Hill the fatal stroke which sever'd
the wisest head in England from the shoulders of the Earle of Straf
ford ; whose crime coming under the cognizance of no human law, a
new one was made, not to be a precident, but his destruction ; to such
exorbitancy were things arived.
28 June. I went to London with my sister Jane, and the day after
sate to one Vanderborcht for my picture in oyle, which I presented to
her, being her request, on my resolution to absent myself from this ill
face of things at home, which gave umbrage to wiser than myselfe, that
the medaill was reversing, and our calamities but yet in their infancy.
The 16th July, having procur'd a passe at the Costome-house, I
went to Gravesend, accompany' d with one Mr. Caryll and our servants,
with a purpose to take .the first opportunity of a passage for Holland;
but the wind as yet not favourable. On the 19th we rode to Rochester
and Chatham, to see the Soveraigne, a monstrous vessel so called,
being for burthen, defense, and ornament, the richest that ever spread

HOLLAND. 1641.] 11
cloth before the wind*, and especialy for this remarkable, that her
building cost his Ma'tie the affections of his subjects, who quarrell'd
with him for a trifle, refusing to contribute either to their own safety
or his glory.
21. We embarqued in. a Dutch Fregat, bound for Flushing, con
voyed and accompanied by 5 other stoute vessells, whereof one was a
man of war. The next day at noon we landed at Flushing.
Being desirous to overtake the Leagure f , which was then before
Genep J, 'ere the Summer should be too far expir'd, we went this
evening to Midelbrogh and Derveer. From Derveer we passed over
many townes, houses, and ruines of demolish'd suberbs, &c. which
have formerly ben swallow'd up by the sea, at what time no Jess than
8 of those Hands had ben irrecoverably lost.
The next day we ariv'd at Dort, the first towne of Holland, fur-
nish'd with all German commodities, and especialy Rhenish wines and
timber. It hath almost at the extremity a very spacious and venerable
Church ; a stately Senat-house, wherein was holden that famous Synod
against the Arminians in 1618, and in that hall hangeth a picture of
the Passion, an exceeding rare and much esteemed- piece.
From Dort, being desirous to hasten, towards the Army, I tooke
wagon to Roterdam, where we were hurried in lesse than an houre,
though it be 10 miles distant, so furiously do these Foremen drive.
I saw the publiq statue of the learn'd Erasmus, of brasse. They shew'd
us his House, or rather the meane Cottage wherein he was borne, over
which there were extant these lines in capital letters:
JEDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS
ARTIBUS INGENUIS, RELIGIONE, FIDE.
The 26th I passed through Delft to the Hague; in which journey
I observ'd divers leprous poor creatures dwelling in solitary huts on the
* Accidentally burnt at Chatham in 1696.
t Mr. Evelyn means, by this expression, to be in time to witness the siege, &c.
X On the Waal — a place which having been greatly strengthened by the Cardinal Infante D.
Fernando in 1635, was at this time besieged by the French and Dutch. There is a full account of
the siege in the great work of Aitzema, a man who with extraordinary patience compiled mate
rials for the History of the United Provinces during the greater part of the seventeenth century.
One of his brothers was mortally wounded at this siege.

12 [HOLLAND, 1641.
brink of the water, and permitted to aske the charity of passengers,
which is convey'd to them in a floating box that they cast out.
Ariv'd at the Hague, I went first to the Queene of Bohemia's
Court ; there were several of the Princesses her daughters, Prince
Maurice newly come out of Germany, and my Ld. Finch not long
before fled out of England from the fury of the Parliament. It was a
fasting-day with the Queene, for the unfortunate death of her husband;
and the Presence Chamber had been hung with black velvet ever since
his discease.
The 28th I went by Leyden ; and the 29th to Utricht. We then
came to Rynen, where the Queene of Bohemia hath a neate Palace
or Country-house, built after the Italian manner as I remember. Then
by Nimeguen. And, 2d of August, ariv'd at the Leagure, where was
then the whole Army encamped about Genep, a strong castle on the
river Wahale ; but being taken 4 or 5 days before, we had only a sight
of the demolitions. The next Sunday was the thanksgiving sermons
perform'd in Col. Goreing's Regiment (eldest sonne of the since Earle of
Norwich) by Mr. Goffe his Chaplin (now turned Roman and Father
Confessor to the Queen-Mother). The evening was spent in firing
canon, and other expressions of military triumphs.
Now, according to the compliment, I was received a Volunteere
in the Company of Cap. Apsley, of whose Capt. Lieutennant Hony-
wood (Apsley being absent) I received many civilities.
3 August, at night, we rod about the lines of circumvallation, the
Gen'll being then in the field. The next day I was accomodated with
a very spacious and com'odious tent for my lodging, as before I was
with an horse, which I had at com'and, and an hutt, which durino- the
excessive heates was a greate convenience, for the sun piercing the
canvass of the tent, it was, during the day, unsufferable, and at night .
not seldome infested with mists and fogg, which ascended from the
river. 6 August. As the turne came about, I watched on a home worke
neere our quarters, and trailed a pike, being the next morning reliev'd
by a company of French. This was our continual duty till the Castle
was re -fortified.

HOLLAND. 1641-] 13
The 7th I went to see a Convent of Franciscan Friers, not far from
our tents ; the Chapell and Refectory full of the goods of such poor
people as at the approch of- the Army had fled with them thither for
sanctuary. On the day following I went to view all the trenches,
approches, and mines, &c. of the Besiegers, and in particular the
wheel-bridg, which engine his Excellency had made to run over the
moate when they storm'd the castle. The walls and ramparts of earth,
which a mine had broaken and crumbled, were of prodigious thicknesse.
8. I din'd in the Horse quarters with Sir Robert Stone and his
Lady, Sir William Stradling, and fivers Cavaliers, where there was
very good cheere, but hot service for a young drinker asxl then was. —
Being pretty well satisfied with the confusion of Armies and Sieges (if
such that of the United Provinces may be called, where their quarters
and encampments are so admirably regular, and orders so exactly
observed as few Cittys exceede it for all conveniences), I tooke my
leave of the Leagure and Camerades.
12 August, I embarked on the Waal, in company with 3 grave
Divines, who entertayn'd us a greate part of our passage with a long
dispute concerning the lawfulness of Church Musick. We touch'd at
Bommell, that had divers English in garrison. It stands upon Contri
bution land, which subjects the environs to the Spanish incursions.
We passed Lovestine, famous for the escape of the learned Grotiusr,
whose lady conveyed him out as a trunk of books. We lay at Gorcum.
13. We arived late at Roterdam, where was their annual marte or
faire, so furnished with pictures (especially Landskips and Drolleries, as
they call those clounish representations) that I was amaz'd. Some I
bought and sent into England. The reson of this store of pictures and
their cheapness proceedes from, their want of land to employ their stock,
so that it is an ordinary thing to find a com'on Farmer lay out two or
.gg.3,000 in this com'odity. Their houses, are full of thenij and they vend
them at their faires to very greate gaines.. Here I first saw an Eliphant.
I passed thro' Delft, and visited the Church,, where was the monument
of Prince William of Nassau, and his sonn and successor, Grave Mau
rice. The Senat-house hath a very stately Portico, supported with very
ehoyse pillars of black marble, as I remember, of one entire stone.
WkhLn,, there hangs a weighty vessell, not unlike a Butter Churne,

14. [HOLLAND. 1641.
which the adventurous woman that hath two husbands at one time is to
weare for a time about the towne, her head com'ing out at the hole,
and the rest hanging on her shoulders, as a pennance for her incon-
tinency. Risewick is a stately country-house of the Prince of Orange,
for nothing more remarkable than the delicious walkes planted with
lime trees, and the moderne paintings within.
19 August. We vissited the Haffov Prince's Court at the Hague,
with the adjoining gardens, which were full of ornament, close-walks,
statues, marbles, grotts, fountains, and artificiall musiq *, &c. There
is a stately Hall, not much inferior to ours of Westminster, hung
round with colours and other trophys taken from the Spanyards ; and
the sides below are furnish'd with shopps f . Next day I returned to
Delft, Rotterdam, the Hague, Leyden, Haerlem, and Amsterdam,
where I went to a Synagogue of the Jews, being Saturday ; the cere
monies, ornaments, lamps, law, and scholes, afforded matter for my
wonder and enquiry. The women were secluded from the men, being
seated above in galleries, and having their heads muffled with linnen
after a fantasticall and somewhat extraordinary fashion. They have a
seperate burying-ground, full of sepulchres with Hebrew inscriptions,
some of them very stately. In one, looking through a narrow crevice,
I perceiv'd divers bookes lye about a corpse, for.it seems when any
learned Rabbi dies, they bury some of his books with him. With the
help of a stick I raked, out some of the leaves, written in Hebrew cha
racters, but much impaired. — We stepp'd in to see the Spin-house, a
kind of Bridewell, where incorrigible and lewd women are kept in dis
cipline and labour, but all neate. — We were shew'd an Hospital for
poor travellers and pilgrimes, built by Queeqe Eliz. of England ; and
auother maintained by the Citty.
The State or Senat-house, if the designe be perfected, will be a
magnificent piece of architecture, especialy for the materialls and the
carvings. In the Doole is paynted on , a very large table Marie de
Medices statue to the breast, supported by foure royal diademes, the;
work of one Vandall, who hath set his name thereon, 1 September 1638.
* As at Enstone in Oxfordshire, see afterwards.
t Westminster Hall used to be so in Term time and the sitting of Parliament, in the beginning
of the reign of George III.

HOLLAND. 1641.] 15
I went to heare an English sermon at the Presbyterian Congrega
tion, where they had chalked upon a slate the psalms that were to be
sung, so that all the congregation might see it without the bidding of a
Clerk. After such an age no minister was permitted to preach, but
had his maintenance continu'd during life.
I changed my lodgings out of a desire to converse amongst the Sec
taries that swarm'd in this Citty. It was at a Brownist's house, where
we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension with us my
L. Keeper Finch, and one Sir Jo. Fotherbee. Here I also found an
English Carmelite, with another Irish gentleman. I went to see the
Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter-house, for the education of
decay'd persons, orphans, and poore children, where they are taught
several occupations. The girls are .so well brought up to housewifry,
that men of good worth who seeke that cheifly in a woman, frequently
take their wifes from this seminary. We went to see the Rasp-house,
where the lusty knaves are compell'd to labour, and the rasping of
Brasill and Logwood is very hard labour. Thence to the Dull-house,
for madmen and fooles. But none did I so much admire as an Hos-
pitall for their lame and decrepid souldiers, it being for state, order,
and acom'odations, one of the worthiest things that the world can shew
of that nature. Indeede it is most remarkable what provisions are here
made and maintain'd for publiq and charitable purposes, and to protect
the poore from misery, and the country from beggers.
On Sunday morning about 11, after their sermons were ended, I
went to see their Dog-market, which lasts till two in the afternoon. I
do not look on the structure of the Exchange to be comparable to that
of Sir Tho. Gresham in or Citty of London, yet in one respect it ex
ceeds, that ships of considerable burthen ride at the very key conti
guous to it. It is by extraordinary industry that as well this Citty, as
generalv the townes of Holland, are so acom'odated wth graffs, cutts,
sluces, moles, and rivers, that nothing is more frequent then to see
a whole navy of marchands and others environ'd with streetes and
houses, every man's barke or vessell at anker before his very doore,
and yet the streete so exactly straite, even, and uniforme, that no
thing can be more pleasing, especialy being so frequently planted and

lg ^HOLLAND. 164T.
shaded with the beautiful! lime-trees, set in rows before every man's
house. The next day we were entertain'd at a kind of tavern called the
Briloft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where, in the upper roomes
of the house were divers pretty waterworkes, rising 108 foote from the
ground ; here were many quaint devices, fountaines, artificiall musiq,
Tioyses of beasts, and chirping of birds, &c. There was a lamp of
brasse, with eight socketts from the middle stem, like those we use in
churches, having counterfeit tapers in them, streams of water issuing
as out of their wickes, the whole branch hanging loose upon 
the middst of a beame, without any other perceptible com'erca with
any pipe, so that, unlesse it were by compression of the ayre with a
syringe, I could not comprehend how it should be don. There was a
chime of purselan dishes, which fitted to clock-worke rung many
changes and tunes.
The Keisers Graft, or Emperors Streete, appears a citty in a wood
through the goodly ranges of the stately lime-trees planted before each
man's doore, and at the margent of that goodly aquae -duct, or river,
so curiously wharfed with clincars (a kind of white sun-bak'd brick)^
and of which the spacious streetes on either side are paved. This part
of Amsterdam is gained upon the maine Sea, supported by piles at an
im'ense charge. Prodigious it is to consider the multitude of vessels
which continualy ride before this Citty, which is certainly the most
busie concourse of mortalls now upon the whole earth, and the most
addicted to com'erce.
The Steeples are adorned after a particular manner for cost and inven
tion ; the Chimes of Bells are so rarely manag'd, that being curious to
know whether the motion were from any engine, I went up to that of
St. Nicholas (as I take it), where I found one who play'd all sorts of
compositions from the tablature before him, as if he had fingered an
organ, for so -were the hammers fastened with wires to several keys,
put into a frame 20 foote below the bells, upon which (by help of a
wooden instrument, not much unlike a weavers shuttle, that guarded
his hand) he struck on the keys and play'd to admiration : all this while
through the clattering of the wires, din of the too nearly sounding bells,

HOLLAND. 1641-] 17
and noise that his wooden gloves made, the confusion was so greate
that it was impossible for the musician, or any that stood neare him, to
heare any thing himselfe ; yet to those at a distance, and especialy in the
streetes, the harmony and the time were the most exact and agreeable.
Generaly there are in all the Churches in Holland, organs, lamps,
monuments, &c. carefully preserved from the fury and impiety of po
pular reformers, whose zeale has foolishly transported them in other
places rather to act like mad-men than religious.
I went to Hundius's shop to buy some mapps, greatly pleased with
the designes of that indefatigable person. Mr. Bleaw, the setter forth
of the Atlas's and other workes of that kind, is worthy seeing. At ano
ther shop I furnish'd myselfe with some shells and Indian curiosities.
Towards the end of August I returned to Haerlem by the river 10
miles in length, straighte as a line and of competent breadth for ships
to saile by one another. They shew'd us a cottage where, they told us,
dwelt a woman who had been married to her 25th husband, and being
now a widdow was prohibited to marry in future, yet it could not be
proved that she had ever made any of her husbands away, though the,
suspicion had brought her divers times to trouble.
This is a very delicate towne, and hath one of the fairest Churches, of
the Gotiq design, I had seene. There hang in the steeple two silver
bells said to have been brought from Damiate in Egypt by an Earle
of Holland, in memory of whose successe they are rung out every even
ing. In the Nave hang the goodliest branches of brasse for tapers
that I had seene, esteem'd of great value for the curiosity of the work
manship ; also a faire payre of organs, which I could not find they
made use of in divine service, or so much as to assist them in singing
psalmes, but only for shewe, and to recreate the people before and after
their devotions, whilst the Burgomasters were walking and conferring
about their affaires. — There hang near the West window two modells
of shipps compleetely equipp'd, in memory of that invention of saws
under their keeles with which they cutt the chayne before the Port of
Damiatse. Having vissited this Church, the Fish-market, and made
some enquiry about the Printing-house, the invention whereof is sayd
to have been in this towne, I returned to Leyden.
vol. 1. D

18 [HOLLAND. 1641.
At Leyden I was carried up to the Castle, or Pyrgus, built on a
very steepe artificial mount, cast up (as reported) by Hengist the
Saxon on his returne out of England, as a place to retyre to in case of
any sudden inundations.
The Churches are many and very faire ; in one of them lyes interr'd
that prodigy of learning the noble and illustrious Joseph Scaliger,
without any extraordinary inscription, as having himself left so many
monuments of his worth behind him, more lasting than marble, besides
giving his Library to this University.
28. I went to see their CoUedge and Schooles, which are nothing
extraordinary, and was matriculated by the then Magnificus Professor,
who first in Latine demanded of me where my lodging in the towne was,
my name, age, birth, and to what faculty I addicted myself ; then, re
cording my answers in a booke, he administered an oath to me that I
should observe the statutes and orders of the University- whiles I stay'd,
and then deliver'd me a ticket by virtue whereof I was made excise-free,
for all which worthy privileges and the paines of writing, he accepted
of a rix-dollar.
Here was the famous Dan. Heinsius, whom I so long'd to see, as
well as the Elzivirian printing-house and shop, renown'd for the polite
ness of the character and editions of what he has publish'd through
Europe. I visited their garden of simples, wch was indeede well stor'd
with exotic plants, if the Catalogue presented to me by the Gardiner be
a faithfull register.
I was much pleased with a sight of their Anatomy schole, theater,
and repository adjoyning, which is well furnish'd with natural Curiosi
ties ; skeletons from the whale and eliphant to the fly and spider, which
last is a very delicate piece of art, to see how the bones (if I may so
call them) of so tender an insect could be seperated from the mucila
ginous parts of y* minute animal. Amongst a great variety of other
things, I was shew'd the knife newly taken out of a drunken Dutch
man's guts by an incision in his side, after it had slipped from .his
fingers into his stomach. The pictures of the chyrurgeon and his
patient, both living, were there.
There is without the Towne a faire Maill curiously planted.

HOLLAND. 1641.] 19
I was shew'd the statue, cut in stone, of the happy Monke whom
they report to have been the first inventor of Typography, set over the
doore ; but this is much controverted by others, who strive for the
glory of it, besides John Guttenberg.
I was brought acquainted with a Burgundian Jew who had married
an apostate Kentish woman. I asked him divers questions; he told
me, amongst other things, that the world should never end, that our
soules transmigrated, and that even those of the most holy persons did
pennance in the bodys of bruits after death, and so he interpreted the
banishment and salvage life of Nebucodnezer; that all the Jewes should
rise againe and be lead to Jerusalem ; that the Romans only were the
occasion of our Saviour's death, whom he affirm'd (as the Turks do)
to be a greate Prophet, but not the Messias ; he shewed me severall
bookes of their devotion, wch he had translated into English for the
instruction of his wife ; he told me that when the Messias came, all the
ships, barkes, and vessells of Holland should, by the powere of cer-
taine strange whirle-winds be loosed from their ankers and transported
in a moment to all the desolat ports and havens throughout the world
where ever the dispersion was, to convey their breathren and tribes to
the holy Citty ; with other such like stuff. He was a merry drunken
fellow. 1 Sept. I went to Delft and Roterdam, and two days after back to
the Hague, to bespeake a suite of armore which 1 caused to be made to
fit me, with the harnesse of a horseman. I went to see one of the
Prince's Palaces, called The Hoff Van Hounslers Dyck, which is a
very magnificent cloyster'd and quadrangular building. The gallery is
prettily paynted with severall Huntings, and at one end a Gordian knot,
with several rusticall instruments so artificially represented as to deceive
an accurate eye, to distinguish it from actual relievo. The ceiling of
the staire-case is painted with the Rape of Ganymede, and other pen
dent figures, the worke of F. Covenberg, of whose hand I bought an
excellent drollery, which I afterwards parted with to my brother George
of Wotton, where it now hangs*. To this Palace joynes a faire gar
den and parke, curiously planted wth limes.
* It is now there.

20 [HOLLAND. 1641.
8th Sept1' to Rotterdam thro' Delfts-haven and Seedam, where was
at that time Coll: Goring's winter-quarters. This towne has heretofore
been much talk'd of for witches.
10. I took waggon for Dort, to be present at ye reception of the
Queene Mother, Maria de Medices, Dowager of France, Widdow of
Henry the Greate, and Mother to the French King Lewis xiij and
the Queene of England, whence she newly arived, toss'd to and fro by
the various fortune of her life. From this Citty she design'd for Collin,
[Cologne] conducted by the Earle of Arundell and the Here Van Bre-
derod. At this interview I saw the Princesse of Orange, and the
Lady her daughter, afterwards married to the House of Brandenbourg.
There was little remarkable in this reception befitting the greatnesse of
her person, but an universal discontent, which accompany'd that un
lucky woman wherever she went.
12 Sepr. I went towards Bois le Duke. We arrived on the 16th,
when the New Citidall was advancing with innumerable hands, and in
comparable inventions for draining off the waters out of the fenns about
it, being by bucketts, mills, cocklea's, pumps, and the like. Here
were now 16 companies and 9 tropes of horse. They were cutting a
new river to passe from the Towne to a Castle not far from it. Here
we split our skiff, falling fowle on another through negligence of the
master, who was faine to run on ground, to our no little hazard. A
Soldier convey'd us to the Governor, where our names were taken, and
or persons examin'd very strictly. I was permitted to walk the round
and view the workes, and to visite a Convent of religious women of the
order of St. Clara, who by the capitulation were permitted to enjoy
their monastery and maintenance undisturbed at the surrender of the
towne 12 years since. We had a collation, and very civil entertaynment.
They had a neate Chapell, in which the heart of the Duke of Cleve,
their founder's, lies inhum'd under a plate of brasse. Within the Cloys-
ter is a garden, and in the middle of it an overgrowne lime-tree, out
of whose stem, neere the roote, issue 5 upright and exceeding tall suckers
or boles, the like whereof for evenesse and heighth I had not observ'd.
The cheife Church is curiously carved within and without, with a
paire of organs, and a most magnificent font, all of copper.

HOLLAND. 1641.] 21
18th. I went to that most impregnable towne and fort of Hysdune,
where I was exceedingly obliged to one Coll: Crombe the Lieutenant
Governor, who would needes make me accept the honor of being Capt:
of the Watch, & to give the word this night.
18th. We departed towards Gorcum. Here Sr Kenelme Digby
travelling towards Colin met us.
19th. We arived at Dort, passing by the Decoys, where they
catch innumerable quantities of fowle.
22. I went to Roterdam to receive a passe which I expected from
the Cardinal Infante, then Governor for his brother the K. of Spaine, in
Flanders, being desirous to see that country in my returne for England,
whither 1 was now shaping my course ; and within 2 days after, having
obtain'd another frm the Pr. of Orange, on the 24th Sepr I departed
through Dort, but met with very bad tempestuous weather, being several
times driven back, and oblig'd to lie at anker off Keele, other vessells
lying there waiting better weather. The 25th and 26th we made other
essays, but were driven back to the harbor, where lay 60 vessels waiting
to sail. But on the 27th we, impatient of the tyme and inhospitable-
nesse of the place, sailed again with a contrary and impetuous wind,
and a terrible sea, in greate jeopardy, for we had much ado to keepe
ourselves above water, the billows breaking desperately on our vessel ;
we were driven into Williamstadt, a place garrison'd by the English,
where the Govr had a faire house. The workes and especialy the Coun-
tercamp are curiously hedg'd with quick, and planted with a stately
row of limes on the Rampart. The Church is of a round structure with
a Cupola. 28th. Failing of an appointement, I was constrained to returne
to Dort for a bill of exchange, but it was the 1st of Octr ere I could
get back; at Keele 1 numbered 141 vessells who durst not yet venture
out ; but animated by the master of a stout bark, after a small en
counter of weather, we ariv'd by 4 that evening at Stene-bergen. In
the passage we sailed over a sea call'd the Plaet, which is an exceeding
dangerous water, by reason of 2 contrary tydes which meete there very
impetuously. Here, because of the many shelfes, we were forc'd to
tyde it along the Channell; but, ere we could gaine the place, the ebb

22 [HOLLAND. 1641.
was so far spent, that we were compell'd to foote it at least a league
thro' a most pelting shower of raine.
2nd Octr. I went in a cart (for it was no better, and no other acco
modation could be procured) of 2 wheeles and one horse to Bergen-op-
Zome, meeting divers partys of his Highn8 Army retiring towards their
winter quarters. The Fort was heretofore built by the English.
The next morning I embarked for Lillo, having refused a convoy of
horse which was afforded me. The tyde being against us, we landed
short of the Fort, on the beach, where we marched half leg deep in
mud ere we could gaine the dyke, wch being 5 or 6 miles frm Lillo, we
were forced to walke on foote very wett and discompos'd, and then en
tering a boat we pass'd the Ferry, and came to the Castle. Being
taken before the Governor, he demanded my passe, to which he set his
hand, and asked 2 rix-dollars for a fee, wch methought appeared very
unhandsome in a Soldier of his quality. I told, him that I had already
purchased my passe of the Commissaries at Roterdam ; at which, in a
greate fury snatching the paper out of my hand, he flung it scornfully
under a table, and bad me try whether I could get to Antwerp without
his permission ; but when I drew out the mony, he return'd it as scur-
vily again, bidding me pay 14 Dutch shill. to the Cantone, or Searcher,
for my contempt, which I was also glad to do with a greate deale of
caution and danger, concealing my Spanish passe, it being a matter of
imprisonment, for that the States were therein treated by the names of
Rebells. Besides all these exactions I gave the Com'issary 6 shill., to
the soldiers something, and 'ere perfectly cleare of this frontiere 31
stivers to the man of war who lay blocking up the river 'twixt Lillo
and the opposite sconce called Lifkinshoeck.
4th Oct. We passed several Spanish Forts, out of one of which
came some Dons, to whom I shewed my Spanish passe, which was
signed by one, and I gave him 6 guilders. We pass'd by another
man of war, to which we lower'd our topsails ; and at length ariv'd at
Antwerp. The lodgings here are very handsome and convenient. I lost little
tyme, but with the conduct of one Mr. Lewkner visited divers
Churehes, Colledges, Monasteries, &c. The Church of the Jesuits

FLANDERS. 1641.] 23
is most sumptuous and magnificent, a glorious fabrig without, and
within wholly incrusted with marble, inlay'd and polish'd into
divers representations of histories, landskips, flowers, &c. On the
high altar is plac'd the Statue of the B. Virgin and our Saviour in
white marble. The quire is a glorious piece ; the pulpet is supported
by foure angels, and adorn'd with other carvings. There are rare
pictures by Rubens, now lately deceased, and divers votive tables
and reliques. The tower of Notre Dame d'Anvers, which is the Ca-
thedrall Church, is a very venerable fabriq, built after the Gotick
manner; the Tower is of an excessive heigth. I assended it to take
a better view of the country. The sun shon exceeding hot, and darted
the rayes without any intermission, affording so bright a reflection to
Us who were above, and had a full prospect of both land and water
about it, that I was much confirmed in my opinion of the moon's
being of some such substance as this earthy globe consists of; per
ceiving all the subjacent country, at so small a horizontal distance, to
repercuss such a light as I could hardly look against, save where the
river, and other large water within our view, appeared of a more dark and
uniforme colour, resembling those spotts in the moone supposed to be seas
there, according to our new philosophy, and viewed by optical glasses.
We went to see Jerusalem Church, affirmed to have been founded by
one who, upon divers greate wagers, went to and fro betweene y1 Citty
and Antwerp on foote, by which he procur'd greate sums of mony,
which he bestow'd in this pious structure. Hence to St. Mary's Cha-
pell, where I had some conference with two English Jesuites, Con
fessors to Coll. Gage his regiment. These Fathers conducted us to, ye
Cloyster of religious women, where we heard a Dutch sermon at a
Quarantia, or exposure of the Sacrament as they tearme it. The Senat-
house of this Citty is a very spacious and magnificent building.
5th Octr I vissited the Jesuits schole, wch for the fame of their me
thod & institution I had greately desir'd to see. They were divided
into 4 classes with a several inscription over each ; as, 1. Ad majorern
Dei gloriam ; over the 2d, Princeps diligenties ; the 3d, Imperator
Byzantiorum ; over the 4th and upmost, Imperator Romanorum.
Under these the scholars and pupils had their places or formes, with

24 [flanders. 1641.
titles and priority according to their proficiency. Their dormitory and
lodgings above were exceeding neate. They have prisons for the of
fenders and lesse diligent ; a court to recreate themselves in, wherein is
an aviary of birds, eagles, foxes, monkeys, &c. to divert the boys at
their times of remission. To the house joyn music and mathematical
scholes, and lastly a pretty chapell. The greate streete is built after a
mere Italian mode, and is very faire and noble, cleane and sweete.
The Oesters house, belonging to the East India Company, is a most
beautifull palace, adorn'd with more than 300 windows. From hence
walking into the Gun-garden, I was suffered to see as much of the
Citadell as is easily permitted to strangers. It is a matchless piece of
modern fortification, accom'odated with logiaments for the souldiers
and magazines. The graffs, ramparts, and platforms, are stupendious.
Returning by the shop of Plantine, I bought some bookes for the
namesake onely of that famous printer.
But there was nothing about this Citty which more ravished me than
those delicious shades and walkes of stately trees, -which render the
fortified workes of the towne one of the sweetest places in Europ ; nor
did I ever observe a more quiet, cleane, elegantly built, and civil place,
then this magnificent and famous Citty of Antwerp. In the evening I
was invited to Sigr Duert's, a Portuguese by nation, an exceeding rich
merchant, whose palace I found to be furnish'd like a prince's; his
three daughters entertain'd us with rare musiq, vocal & instrumental,
wch was finish'd with a handsome collation. I tooke leave of the Ladys,
and of sweete Antwerp, as late as it was, embarquing for Bruxelles
on the Scheld, in a vessel which delivered us to a second boate (in ano
ther river) drawn or tow'd* by horses. In this passage we frequently
chang'd our barge, by reason of the bridges thwarting our course.
Here I observed numerous families inhabiting their vessels, and
floating dwellings, so built and divided by cabins, as few houses on
land enjoy'd better accom'odation, stor'd with all sorts of utensills,
neate chambers, a pretty parlour, and kept so sweete that nothing
could be more refreshing. The rivers on which they are drawne are
very cleare & still waters, and passe through a most pleasant country
on both the bankes. We had in our boate a very good ordnary, and

FLANDERS. 1641.] 25
excellent company. The cutt is straight as a line for 20 English miles.
What I much admir'd was, neere the midway, another artificial river
which intersects this at right angles, but on an eminence of ground,
and is carryed in an aqueduct of stone so far above the other as that
the waters neither mingle nor hinder one another's passage*.
At Villefrow all the passengers went on shore to wash at a foun-
taine issuing out of a pillar, and then came aboard again. On the
margin of this long tract are aboundance of Shrines and Images,
defended from the injuries of the weather by niches of stone in which
they are placed.
7th Octr. We arriv'd at Bruxelles at 9 in the morning. The State
house, neere the market-place, is for the carving in freestone a most
laborious and finished piece, well worthy observation. The flesh-
shambles are also built of stone. I was pleased with certain small
engines by which a girl or boy was able to draw up, or let downe,
greate bridges, wch in divers parts of this Citty crossed ye channell,
for the benefit of passengers. The walls of this Town are very intyre,
and full of towers at competent distances. The Cathedrall is on a very
high and exceeding steepe ascent, to which we mounted by faire stepps
of stone. Hence I walked to a Convent of English Nunns, with whom
I sate discoursing most part of the afternoone.
8th Ocf. being the morning I came away, I went to see the Prince's
Court, which is an ancient, confus'd building, not much unlike the
Hofft at the Hague ; there is here likewise a very large Hall, where
they vend all sorts of wares. Through this we passed by the Chapell,
which is indeed rarely arch'd, and in the middle of it was the hearse
or catafalco of the late Arch-Dutchesse, the wise & pious Clara Eu
genia. Out of this we were conducted to the lodgings, tapistry'd
with incomparable arras, and adorn'd with many excellent pieces of
Reubens, old and young Breughel, Titian, and Stenwick, with stories
of most of the late actions in the Netherlands.
By an accident we could not see the Library. There is a faire ter
race which looks to the Vine-yard, in which, on pedestalls, are fix'd
* As the Duke of Bridgewater's, in Lancashire.
VOL. I. E

26 [flanders. 1641.
the statues of all the Spanish Kings of the House of Austria. The
opposite walls are paynted by Rubens, being an history of the late
tumults in Belgia ; in the last piece the Arch-Dutchesse shutts a
greate payre of gates upon Mars, who is coming out of hell, arm'd,
and in a menacing posture. On another, the Infanta is seen taking
leave of Don Philip.
From hence we walked into the Parke, which for being intirely
within the walls of the Citty is particularly remarkable ; nor is it less
pleasant than if in the most solitary recesses, so naturally is it furnish'd
with whatever may render it agreeable, melancholy, and country-like.
Here is a stately heronry, divers springs of water, artificial cascades,
rocks, grotts, one whereof is composed of the extravagant rootes of
trees cunningly built and hung together. In this Parke are both fallow
and red. deare.
From hence we were led into the Manege, and out of that into a
most sweete and delicious garden, where was another grott, of more
neate and costly materials, full of noble statues, and entertaining us
with artificial musiq ; but the hedge of water, in forme of lattice- worke,
which the fontanier caused to ascend out of the earth ' by degrees, ex
ceedingly pleased and surpris'd me, for thus with a pervious wall, or
rather a palisad hedge, of water, was the whole parterre environ'd.
There is likewise a faire Aviary, and in the court next it are kept
divers sorts of animals, rare & exotic fowle, as eagles, cranes, storkes,
bustards, pheasants of several kinds, a duck having 4 wings, &c. In
another division of the same close, are rabbits of an almost perfect
yellow colour.
There was no Court now in the Palace, the Infante Cardinal, who
was the Governor of Flanders, being dead but newly, and every one
in deepe mourning.
At near 11 o'clock, I repaired to his Majesty's Agent Sir Henry De
Vic, who very courteously receiv'd me and accommodated me with a
coach & six horses, which carried me from Bruxelles to Gant, where
it was to meete my Lord of Arundel, Earle Marshal of England, who
had requested me when I was at Antwerp to send it for him, if I went
not thither myselfe.

FLANDERS. 1641.] 27
Thus taking leave of Bruxelles and a sad Court, yet full of gallant
persons (for in this small Cittyp the acquaintence being universal, Ladys
and Gentlemen, I perceiv'd, had greate diversions and frequent meetings),
I hasted towards Gant. On the way I met with divers little wagons
prettily contrived and full of pedling merchandises, drawne by mastive-
dogs, harnessed compleately like so many coach-horses, in some 4, in
others 6, as in Bruxelles itselfe I had observed. In Antwerp I saw, as
I remember, 4 dogs draw 5 lusty children in a charriot : the master
com'ands them whither he pleases, crying his wares about the streetes.
After passing through Ouse, by 6 in the evening I arriv'd at Ghent.
This is a Citty of so great a circumference that it is reported to be 7
leagues round, but there is not half of it now built, much remaining in
fields and pastures, even within the wall, which has strong gates
towards the West, and two faire churches.
Here I beheld the Palace wherein John of Gaunt and Cha. V. were
borne ; the statue of the latter stands in the Market-place, on an high
pillar, with his sword drawn, to which (I was told) the Magistrates and
Bergers were wont to repaire on a certaine day every yeare wth reaps
about their necks, in toaken of submission & pennance for an old Re
bellion of theirs ; but now the hemp is changed to a blew ribbon. Here
is the Basilisco, or great Gun, so much talked of. The Ley and the
Scheldt meeting in this vast City divide it into 26 Islands, which are
united by many bridges, somewhat resembling Venice. This night I
supp'd with the Abbot of Andoyne, a pleasant and courteous priest.
8th Octr. I passed by boate to Bruges, taking in at a redoutt a
convoy of 14 musketeers, because the other side of the river being
Contribution land, was subject to the inroads and depredations of the
bordering States. This river was cut by the famous Marquiss Spinola,
and is in my judgment a wonderfull piece of labour, and is a worthy
publiq worke, being in some places forced thro' the maine rock, to an
incredible depth, for 30 miles. At the end of each mile is built a small
redout, which com'unicates a line to ye next, and so the whole way,
from- whence we received many vollies of shot in compliment to my
Ld Marshall, who was in or vessel, a passenger with us. At 5 that
evening we were met by the Magistrates of Bruges, who came out to

28 [flanders. 1.641.
convey my Lord to his lodgings, where he was entertaynd that night
at their cost.
The morning after we went to see the State-house and adjoyning
Aquseduct, the Church, and Market-place, where we saw cheeses and
butter piled up in heapes; also the Fortifications and Grafts, which
are extreamly large.
The 9th we arived at Ostend by a straighte and artificial river.
Here, wth leave of the Captaine of the Watch, I was carried to survey
the river and harbour, with fortifications on one side thereof : the East
and South are mud & earth walls. It is a very strong place, and lately
stood a memorable siege 3 yeares, 3 moneths, 3 weeks, & 3_dayes.
I went to see the Church of St. Peter, and the Cloysters of the
Franciscans. 10th Octr. I went by wagon, accompany'd wth a jovial Com'issary,
to Dynkirk, the journey being made all on ye sea sands. On or arrival
we first viewed the Court of Guards, the Workes, the Towne-house,
and the New Church ; the latter is very beautifull within ; and another,
wherein they shew'd us an excellent piece of our Saviour's bearing the
Crosse. The Harbour in two channels coming up to the Towne was
ehoaked wth a multitude of prizes.
From hence, the next day, I marched three English miles towards
the packet-boate, being a pretty fregat of 6 guns, which embarked us
for England about 3 in the afternoone.
At our going off, the Fort against which our pinnace ankered saluted
my Lord Marshall with 12 greate guns, which we answered with 3.
Not having the wind favorable, we ankered that night before Calais.
About midnight we weighed ; and at 4 in the morning, tho' not far
from Dover, we could not make the Peere till 4 in the afternoon, the
wind proving contrary and driving us Westward ; but at last we got on
shore, Octr the 12th.
From Dover I that night rod post to Canterbery. Here I visited
the Cathedrall, then in great splendour, those famous windows being
intire, since demolish'd by the Phanatiqs. The next morning by Sit-
tinbourn I came to Rochester, and thence to Graves-end, where a
Light-horse-man (as they call it) taking us in, we spent our tide as far

1642.] 29
as Greenwich. From hence, after we had a little refresh'd ourselves at
the CoUedge (for by reason of ye contagion then in London we baulked
the Inns), we came to London, landing at Arundel-stayres : here I
took leave of his Lordship, and retyred to my lodgings in the Middle
Temple, being about 2 in the morning.
16th Octr. I went to see my brother at Wotton. On the 31st of
that moneth (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion, which broke out on
the 23rd), I was one and twenty yeares of age.
7 Nov. I visited my Lord Marshal at Albury.
23 Novr. I returned to London ; and on the 25th saw his Majesty
ride thro' the Citty after his coming out of Scotland, and a Peace pro-
claym'd, wth greate acclamations and joy of the giddy people.
15th Decr. I was elected one of the Comptrolers of the Middle
Temple-revellers, as the fashion of ye young Students and Gentlemen
was, the Christmas being kept this yeare with greate solemnity ; but
being desirous to passe it in the Country, I got leave to resigne my
staffe of office, and went with my brother Richd to Wotton.
10th Jan^ 1642. I gave a visite to my cousin Hatton of Ditton.
19. I went to London,, where I stayed till 5th March, studying a
little, but dancing and fooling more.
3rd Oct1'.. I went to Chichester,, and hence the next day to see the
Seige of Portsmouth, for now was that bloody difference betweene the
King and Parlm1 broken out, which ended in the fatal tragedy so many
yeares after. It was on the day of its being render'd to Sir Wm Waller,
which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave of Coll. Goring the
Governor, now embarqueing for France.
From thence I went to South'ton and Winchester, where I vissited
the Castle, Schole, Church, and King Arthur's Round Table, but
especialy the Church, and its Saxon Kings Monuments, which I es
teemed a worthy antiquity.
3 Oct. was fought that signal Battaile at Edgehill.
12th Novr was the Battle of Braineford surprisingly fought, and to
the greate consternation of the Citty had his Majesty (as twas believed
he would) persu'd his advantage. I came in wth my horse and armes
just at the retreate, but was not permitted to stay longer than the 15th

30 [i643<
by reason of the Army's marching to Glocester, which would have left
both me and my brothers expos'd to ruine, without any advantage to
his Matie.
7th Dec'. I went from Wotton to London to see the so much cele
brated line of com'unication, and on the 10th returned to Wotton, no
body knowing of my having ben. in his Maties Army.
1643. 10th March. I went to Hartingfordberry, to visite my
cousin Keightly.
11th. I went to see my Lord of Salisbury's Palace at Hatfield,
where the most considerable rarity besides the house (inferior to few
then in England for its architecture) was the garden and vineyard
rarely well watered and planted. They also shew'd us the picture of
Secretary Cecil in mosaiq worke, very well don by some Italian hand.
I must not forget what amazed us in the night before, viz. a shining
clowd in the ayre, in shape resembling a sword, the point reaching to
the North : it was as bright as the moone, the rest of the sky being
very serene. It began about 11 at night, and vanish'd not rill about
one, being seen by all the South of England.
I made many journies to and from London.
15 April. I went to Hatfield, and neere the Town of Hertford I
went to see Sir J. Harris [Harrison] his house new built *. Returning
to London, I called to see his Majesty's house and gardens at Theobalds,
since demolish'd by the rebels.
2nd May. I went to London, where I saw the furious and zelous
people demolish that stately Crosse in Cheapside. On the 4th I r6-
turn'd, with no little regrett for the confusion that threaten'd us-
Resolving to possess myselfe in some quiet if it might be, in a time of
so great jealosy, I built by my Brother's permission a study, made a
fishpond, an island, and some other solitudes and retirements, at Wotton,
which gave the first occasion of improving them to those water-works
and gardens which afterwards succeeded them.

* Now called Balls Park, belonging to Lord John Townshend, who inherits it from his grand
mother, Lady Viscountess Townshend, who was a Miss Harrison, and wife to Charles Viscount
Townshend, Secretary of State to George jthe Second.

FRANCE. 1643-] 31
. 12 July. I sent my black manege horse and furniture with a friend
to his Matie then at Oxford.
23. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myselfe ; but finding it
impossible to evade the doing very unhandsome things, and which had
been a greate cause of my perpetual motions hitherto between Wotton
& London, Oct. 2nd I obtayned a lycence of his Matie, dated at Oxford
and sign'd by the King, to travell againe.
6 Nov. Lying by the way from Wotton at Sir Ralph Whitfield's, at
Blechinglee, (whither both my Brothers had conducted me), I ariv'd
at London on the 7th, and 2 days after took boate at the Tower-wharfe,
which carry 'd me as far as Sittingburne, tho' not without danger, I being
onely in a payre of oares, expos'd to a hideous storme ; but it pleas'd
God we got in before the perill was considerable. From thence 1 went
by post to Dover, accompany'd with one Mr. Thicknesse, a very deare
friend of mine *.
Having a reasonable good passage, though the weather was snowy
and untoward enough, we came before Calais, where, as we went on
shore, mistaking the tyde, or shallop struck on ye sands, with no little
danger, but at length we got off.
Calais is well fortified', in the old Castle and new Citadell, reguarding
the Sea. The haven consists of a long banke of sand, lying opposite to
it. The Market-place and the Church are remarkable things, besides
the reliques of our former dominion there. 1 remember there was en
graven in stone on the front of an ancient dwelling wch was shew'd us,
these words in English, God save the King, with the name of ye ar
chitect and date. The walls of the towne are substantial, but the situa
tion towards the land is not pleasant, by reason of the marishes and low
grounds about it.
12 Novr. After diner we tooke horse with the Messagere, hoping
to have ariv'd at Bollogne that night ; bnt there fell so great a snow,
accompanied wth hayle, rain, and suddaine darknesse, that we had much
adoe to gain the next village ; and in this passage being to crosse
a vally by a causeway and a bridge built over a small river, the raine
that had fallen making it an impetuous stream e for neere a quarter
¦ * The gentleman he mentioned as so much assisting his studies at Oxford, p. 7-

'32 [FRANCE". 10*43.
of a mile, my horse slipping had almost been the occasion of my perish
ing. We none of us went to bed, for the souldiers in those parts
leaving little in the villages, we had enough to do to "get ourselves dry
by morning, between the fire and the fresh straw. The next day early
we ariv'd at Bollogne* a«* < 1 ¦ *x*
This is a double towne, one part on a high Rock, or downes, the
other, call'd ye Lower Towne, is yet wth a greate declivity towards the
Sea. There is a strong Castle on a notable (eminence. • Under the
towne runs the river, which is yet but an inconsiderable-brooke. Hen.
8th. in the siege of this place is said to have used those greate leatherne
guns which I have since seen in the Tower of London,- inscribed Non
Marte opus est, cui non deficit Mercurius, if at least the history be
true, wch my Lord Herbert doubts *. • ¦ < ¦ ,
The next morning, in some danger of party's ^Spanish] surprising
us, we came to Monstreuil, built on the sum'it of a most conspicuous
hill, environ'd with faire and ample meadows, but all the suburbs had
been from time to time ruin'd, and were now lately burnt by the Spa
nish inroads. This towne is fortified with 2 very deep dry ditches ;
the walls about the bastions and citadal are a noble piece of masonary.
The Church is more glorious without then within. The Market
place is large, but the inhabitants are miserably poore. The next day
we came to Abbeville, having pass'd all this way in continual expecta
tion of the volunteeres^ as they call them.* This Towne affords a good
aspect towards the hill from whence we descended, nor does it deceive
us, for it is handsomely built, <und has many pleasant and useful
streames passing through it, the maine river being the Some, which
discharges itselfe into the Sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the
towne. The principal Church is a very hanadsOme piece of«Gothiq
architecture, and the ports and ramparts planted for ornament. They
brought us choice of guns and pistolls to; sell a* reasonable rates, and
neately made, being 'here a merchandize of greate iaccount, the towne
abounding in gun-smiths. .errors bo ijiit>.i\ i<> !ui« x
Hence we advanced to Beauvaisj a town of good noate, and having
the first vineyards we had seen. The next day to Beaumont, and the
— 7 ' ' ' '*"  ' ' " "' — " ' ¦ ' * . .
* In his History of that King.

FRANCE. 1643<] 33
morrow to Paris, having taken our repast at St. Denys, 2 leagues from
that greate Citty. St. Denys is considerable only for its stately Cathe
dral, and the dormitory of the French Kings, there inhum'd as ours
at Westmistr Abbey. The treasury is esteemed one of the richest in
Europe. The Church was built by King Dagobert, but since much
enlarged, being now 390 foote long, 100 in bredth, and 80 in height,
without comprehending the cover ; it has a very high shaft of stone,
and the gates are of brasse. In the choir are the sepulchres of the
most ancient Kings : without it are many more ; amongst the rest that
of Bertrand du Guesclin, Constable of France ; in the Chapell of Chas
V. all his posterity, and neere him the magnificent sepulchre of Fran
cis I. with his children, warres, victories, and triumphs, engraven
in marble. Above are bodies of several Saints ; below, under a state
of black velvet, the late Lewis xiij. Every one of the 10 chapels, or
oratories, had some Saints in them ; amongst the rest, one of the Holy
Innocents. The treasury is in the sacristy above, in which are crosses
of massy gold and silver, studded with precious stones, one of gold 3
feet high. Amongst the still more valuable reliques are a naile from
our Saviour's Cross, in a box of gold full of precious stones ; a crucifix
of the true wood of the Crosse, carved by Pope Clement III. inchas'd
in a crystal covered with gold ; a box in which is some of the Virgin's
haire ; some of the linnen in wch our blessed Saviour was wrapped at
his nativity ; in a huge reliquary modelled like a church, some of our
Saviour's blood, hair, cloathes, linnen with which he wiped the
Apostles feet ; with many other equally authentic reliques. Amongst
the treasures is the Crowne of Charlemagne, his 7 foote high scepter
and hand of justice, his sword, belt, and spurrs of gold ; the Crowne
of St. Lewis, cover'd with precious stones, amongst which is one vast
ruby, uncut, of inestimable value, weighing 300 carrats, (under
which is set one of the thorns of our blessed Saviour's crowne,) his
sword, seal, and hand of justice. The 2 crownes of Hen IV. his
sceptre, hand of justice, and spurrs. The 2 crowns of his son Lewis.
In the cloak royal of Anne of Bretagne is a very greate and rare rubie.
Divers bookes cover'd with' solid plates of gold and studded with pre
cious stones. T\vo vasas of berill, 2 of achate, whereof one is
VOL. I. F

34 [paris. 1643;
esteemed for its bignesse, colour, and carving imboss'd, the best now to
be seene ; by a special favour I was permitted to take the measure &
dimensions of it ; the story is a Bachanalia. It is really antique. There
is a large gundola of chrysolite, a huge urn of porphyry, another of
chalcedone, a vasa of onyx, the largest I had ever seen of that stone ;
2 of chrystal ; a morsel of one of the water-pots in which our Saviour
did his first miracle ; the effigies of the Queen of Saba, of Julius, Au
gustus, Marc Antony, Cleopatra, and others, upon saphyrs, topazes,
agates, and cornelians ; that of the Queen of Saba has a Morish face ;
those of Julius and Nero on achates rarely colour'd and cut. A cup
in which Solomon was us'd to drinke. Apollo on a great amethyst.
There lay in a window a miroir of a kind of stone said to have belonged
to the poet Virgil. Charlemayne's chessemen, full of Arabiq charac
ters. In the presse next the doore, the brasse lanthorn full of crystals,
said to have conducted Judas and his company to apprehend or B. S.
A faire unicorne's horn, sent by a K. of Persia, about 7 foote long.
In another presse (over which stands the picture in oil of their Orleans
Amazon with her sword), the effigies of the late French Kings in wax,
like ours in Westminster, covered with their robes, with a world of
other rarities. Having rewarded or courteous fryer, we tooke horse for
Paris, where we ariv'd about five in the afternoone. In the way were
faire crosses of stone carv'd with fleurs de lys at every furlong's end,
where they affirme St. Denys rested and layd down his head after mar
tyrdom, carrying it from the place where this monastery is builded. We
lay at the Ville de Venice; I went to visite Sir Richd Browne, his
Maties Resident with the French Kinsf.
5 Dec. The Earl of Norwich* came as Ambassador Extraordinary ;
I went to meet him in a coach and six horses, at the palace of Monsr de
Bassompiere, where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, and
rare prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the 'ceremonies,
and a greate cavalcade of men of quality1, to the Palais Cardinal, where
on the 23d he had audience of the French King and the Queen Regent
his mother, in the golden chamber of presence. From thence I con
ducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. Denys, and so tooke my leave.
* So created, having been George Lord Goring.

paris. 1643-] 35
24th. I went to see the Isle encompassed by the Seine and the
Oyse. The City is divided into 3 parts, whereof the Towne is greatest.
The City lyes between it and the University, in form of an island.
Over the Seine is a stately bridge called Pont Neuf, begun by Hen. 3.
in 1578, finished by Hen. 4. his successor. It is all of hewn free stone
found under the streets, but more plentifully at Mont-Martyre, and
consists of 12 arches, in the midst of which ends the poynt of an island,
on which are built handsome artificers houses. There is one large pas
sage for coaches, and 2 for foot passengers 3 or 4 feet higher, and of
convenient breadth for 8 or 10 to go abreast. On the middle of this
stately bridge on one side stands that famous statue of Hen. the Great
on horseback, exceeding the natural proportion by much ; and on the 4
faces of a stately pedestal, (which is compos'd of various sorts of polish' d
marble and rich mouldings,) inscriptions of his victories and most sig
nal actions are engraven in brasse. The statue and horse are of copper,
the worke of the greate John di Bologna, and sent from Florence by
Ferdinand the First, and Cosmo the 2d, unkle & cousin to Mary di
Medices, the wife of this K. Henry. It is inclos'd with a strong and
beautifull grate of yron, about which there are allways mountebancs
shewing their feates to idle passengers. From hence is a rare pro
spect towards the Louver and suburbs of St. Germaines, the Isle of du
Palais, and Notre Dame. At the foote of this bridge is a water
house, on the front whereof, at a great height, is the story of our
Saviour and the Woman of Samaria powring water out of a bucket.
Above is a very rare dyal of severall motions, with a chime, &c. The
water is convey'd by huge wheeles, pumps, and other engines, from
the river beneath. The confluence of the people and multitude of
coaches passing every moment over the bridge, to a new spectator is
an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there are, as that of Notre
Dame ; and the Pont au Change, &c. fairly built, with houses of stone,
which are laid over this river : only the Pont St. Anne, landing the
suburbs of St. Germaine at the Thuilleries, is built of wood, having
likewise a water-house in the^middst of it, and a statue of Neptune
casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but much inferior to the
Samaritane.

36 [paris. 1643-
The University lyes South West on higher ground, contiguous to,
but the lesser part of Paris. They reckon no less than 65 Colleges, but
they in nothing approch ours at Oxford for state and order. The book
sellers dwell within the University. The Scholes (of which more
hereafter) are very regular.
The suburbs are those of St: Denys, Honore, St. Marcel, Jaques,
St/ Michel, St. Victoire, and St. Germaines, which last is the largest,
and where the nobility and persons of the best quality are seated; and
truely Paris, comprehending the suburbs, is, for the material the
houses are built with, and many noble and magnificent piles, one of
the most gallant Cittyes in the world; large in circuit, of a round
forme, very populous, but situated in a botome, environ'd wth gentle
declivities, rendering some places very dirty, and making it smell as if
sulphure were mingled wtb the mudd; yet it is pav'd with a kind of
free-stone, of neere a foote square, which renders it more easy to walk
on than our pebles in London.
On Christmas eve I went to see the Cathedrall of Notre Dame,
erected by Philip Augustus, but begun by K. Robert, son of Hugh
Capet. It consists of a Gotiq fabriq, supported by 120 pillars, which
make 2 ailes in the Church round about the quire, without comprehend
ing the Chapells, being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 100 high. The
Quire is enclos'd wth stone worke graven with the sacred history, and
containes 45 Chapells cancell'd wth iron. At the front of the chiefe en
trance are statues in relievo of the Kings, 28 in number, from Childe-
bert to the founder, Philip ; and above them are two high square Tov/ers,
and another of a smaller size, bearing a Spire in the middle, where the
body of the Church formes a Crosse. The greate Tow'r is ascended by
389 steps, having 12 gallerys from one to ye other. They greately re
verence the Crucifix dver the skreene of ye Quire, wth an image of the B.
Virgin. There are some good moderne paintings hanging on the pil
lars : the most conspicuous statue is the huge Colosse of St. Christopher,
wth divers other figures of men, houses, prospects, & rocks, about this
gygantiq piece, being of one stone, and more remarkable for its bulke
than any other perfection. This is the prime Church of France for dig
nity, having Arch-deacons, Vicars, Canons, Priests, and Chaplaines

PARIS. 1644.] 37
in good store, to ye number of 127- It-is also the Palace of the Arch
bishop. The young King was there wth a greate and martial guard,
who enter'd the Nave of the Church wth drums and fifes, at the ceasing
of which I was entertain'd with the church musiqs
1644. 4 Jany. I pass'd this day with one Mr. Jo. Wall, an Irish
gentleman, who had been a Frier in Spaine, and afterwards a Reader in
St.Isodors Chayre at Rome, but was, I know not how, getting away, and
pretending to be a Souldier of fortune, an absolute Cavaliere, having as
he told us been Capt. of Horse in Germany. It is certaine he was an
excellent disputant, and so strangely given to it that nothing could
passe him. He would needes perswade me to goe with him this
morning to the Jesuites CoUedge, to witnesse his polemical talent.
We found the Fathers in their Church at the Rue St. Anthoine, where
one of them shew'd us that noble fabriq, which for its cupola, pavings,
incrustations of marble, the pulpit, altars (especially the high altar),
organ, lavatorium, &c. but, above all, the richly carv'd and incom
parable front, I esteeme to be one of the most perfect pieces of archi
tecture in Europ, emulating even some of the greatest now at Rome
itself ; but this not being what or Frier sought, he led us into the ad-
joyning Convent, where having shew'd us the Library, they began a
very hot dispute on some poynts of Divinity, which or Cavalier con
tested onely to shew his pride, and to that indiscreete height that the
Jesuits would hardly bring us to our coach, they being put beside all
patience. The next day we went into the University, and into the
College of Navarre, which is a spacious well-built quadrangle, having
a very noble Library.
Thence to the Sorbonne, an antient fabriq built by one Robert de
Sorbonne, whose name it retaines, but the restauration which the late
Cardinal de Richlieu has made to it renders it one of the most excellent
moderne buildings ; the sumptuous Church, of admirable architecture,
is far superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole designe of
the Church is very magnificent.
We went into some of the Scholes, and in that of Divinity we found
a grave Doctor in his chaire, with a multitude of auditors, who all
write as he dictates; and this they call a Course. After we had sate a

38 [paris. 1644.
little, or Cavalier started up, and rudely enough began to dispute wtb the
Doctr; at which, and especialy as he was clad in ye Spanish habit,
which in Paris is the greatest bugbare imaginable, the Scholars &
Doctor fell into such a fit of laughter that nobody could be heard speake
for a while; but silence being obtain'd, he began to speake Latine, and
make his apology in so good a style, that their derision was turn'd to
admiration, & beginning to argue, he so baffled the Professor, that with
universal applause they all rose up and did him greate honors, waiting
on us to the very streete and our coach, testifying greate satisfaction.
3rd Feb. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to the build
ings is very noble, but the gallerys where they sell their petty merchan
dize are nothing so stately as ours at London, no more than the place
where they walke below, being onely a low vault.
The Palais, as they call the upper part, was built in ye time of
Philip the Faire, noble and spacious. The greate Hall annex'd to it
is arched with stone, having a range of pillars in the middle, round
which and at the sides are shops of all kinds, especialy Bookesellers.
One side is full of pewes for the Clearkes of the Advocates, who swarme
here (as ours at Westminster). At one of ye ends stands an altar, at
which Masse is said daily. Within are several Chambers, Courts,
Treasuries, &c. Above that is the most rich and glorious Salle d'Au-
dience, the Chamber of St. Lewis, and other superior Courts where the
Parliament sits, richly guilt on embossed carvings & fretts, and exceed
ing beautified.
Within the place where they sell their wares is another narrower
gallery full of shopps and toys, &e. which lookes downe into ye Prison
yard. Descending by a large payre of stayres, we passed by St. Cha-
pelle, which is a Church built by St. Lewis, 1242, after the Gotiq
manner ; it stands on another Church wch is under it, sustain'd by
pillars at ye sides, wch seeme so weak as to appear extraordinary in
ye artist. This Chapell is most famous for its Relicques, having, as
they pretend, almost the intyre Crowne of Thornes ; the Achat Patine,
rarely sculptur'd, judg'd one of the largest & best in Europ. There was
now a very beautifull Spire erecting. The Court below is very spacious,
capable of holding many coaches, and surrounded with shopps, especially

PARIS. 1644-] 39
Engravers, Goldsmiths, and Watchmakers. In it is a fayre Fountaine
& Portico. The Isle du Palais consists of a triangular brick building,
whereof one side, looking to the river, is inhabited by Goldsmiths.
Within the court are private dwellings. The front looking on the
greate bridge is possess'd by Mountebanks, Operators, and Puppet-
players. On the other part is the every day's market for all sorts
of provisions, especially bread, hearbs, flowers, orange-trees, choyce
shrubbs ; here is a shop called Noah's Arke, where are sold all curio
sities naturall or artificial, Indian or European, for luxury or use, as
cabinets, shells, ivory, porselan, dried fishes, insects, birds, pictures,
and a thousand exotic extravagances. Passing hence we viewed the
Port Dauphine, an arch of excellent workmanship ; the street, bearing
the same name, is ample and straite.
4 Feb. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where is a noble
Church and Palace, heretofore dedicated to the Knights Templars, now
converted to a Piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent Garden, but
larger and not so pleasant, tho' built all about with divers considerable
palaces. The Church of St. Genevieve is a place of greate devotion, dedicated
to another of their Amazons sayd to have deliver'd the Citty from ye
English, for which she is esteem'd the tutelary Saint of Paris. It
stands on a steepe eminence, having a very high spire, and is govern'd
by Canons Regular.
At the Palais Royale Hen. IV. built a faire quadrangle of stately
Palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of a spacious area stands
on a noble pedestal, a brazen Statue of Lewis XIII. wch tho made in
imitation of that in ye Roman Capitol, is nothing so much esteem'd as
that on f Pont Neuf.
The Hospital of the Quinz-Vingts in Rue St. Honore is an excellent
foundation ; but above all is the Hotel Dieu for men and women, neare
Notre Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the
Charite' gave me great satisfaction in seeing how decently and Chris-
tianly the sick people are attended, even to delicacy. I have seen them
served by noble persons, men and women. They have also gardens,
walks, & fountaines. Divers persons are here cutt for the stone with

40 [PARIS. 1644.
greate successe yearly in May. The 2 Chasteletts (supposed to have
been built by Julius Caesar) are places of Judicature ia Criminal
Causes, to which is a strong Prison, The Courts are spacious and
magnificent. 8 Feb. I took coach and went to see the famous Jardine Rpyale,
which is an enclosure walled in, consisting of all varieties of ground
for planting and culture of medical simples. It is well chosen, having
in it hills, meadows, wood and upland, naturall and artificial, and is
richly stor'd with exotic plapts. In the middle of the Parterre is a faire
fountaine. There is a very fine house, chapel, laboratory, orangery,
& other accomodations for the President, who is allways one of the
King's cheife Physitians.
From hence we went to the other side of the towne, and to some
distance from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going by the Bastille, wch
is the Fortresse Tower and Magazine of this great Citty. It is very
spacious within, and there the Grand Master of the Artillery has his
house, with faire gardens and walks.
The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble Castle, with
magnificent apartments, fit for a Royal Court, not forgetting the
Chapell. It is the chiefe Prison for persons of quality. About it there
is a parke walled in, full of deere, and in one part is a grove of gopdly
pine-trees. The next day I went to see the Louvre with more attention, its severall
Courts and Pavilions. One of the quadrangles, begun by Hen. IV.
and finish'd by his son and grandson, is a superb but mix'd structure.
The cornices, mouldings, & compartments, wth the insertion of severall
colour'd marbles, have been of great expence.
We went through the long gallery, pav'd wth white & black marble,
richly fretted and paynted afresca. The front looking to the river, tho'
of rare worke for ye carving,, yet wants of. that magnificence which a
plainer and truer designe would have contributed to it.
In ye Cour aux Thuilleries is a princely fabriq; the winding geo
metrical stone stayres, with the cupola, I take to be as bold and noble
a piece of architecture as any in Europ of the kind* To this is a Corps
de Logis, worthy of so greate a Prince. Under these buildings, thro'

PARIS. 1644.] 41
a 'garden' in which is an ample fountaine, was the King's printing-
house, and that famous letter so much esteem'd. Here I bought
divers of the classiq authors,1 poets & others.
We return'd through another gallery, larger, but not so long, where
hung the pictures of all the Kirtgs and Queenes and prime Nobility of
France. Descending hence, we went into a lower very large room, call'd the
Salle des Antiques, which is a vaulted Cimelia, destin'd for statues
only, amongst 'which stands the so celebrated Diana of the Ephesians,
said to be the same which utter'd oracles in that temple. There is a
huge globe suspended by chaynes. The pavings, inlayings, and in
crustations of this Hall are very rich.
In another more privat garden towards the Queene's apartment is a
walke or cloyster under arches, whose terrace is paved with stones of a
greate breadth ; it looks towards the river, and has a pleasant aviary,
fountaine, stately cypresses, &c. On the river are seene a prodigious
number of barges and boates of great length, full of hay, corne, wood,
wine, &c. Under the long gallery dwell goldsmiths, paynters, sta
tuaries, and architects, who being the most famous for their art in
Christendom, have stipends allowed them by the King. We went
into that of Mon" Saracin, who was moulding for an image of a Ma-
dona to be cast in gold, of a greate size, to be sent by the Queene
Regent to Lauretto, as an offering for the birth of the Dauphine, now
the youtig King.
I finish'd this day- with a walke in the greate garden of the Thuil-
leries, which is rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or company, by
groves, plantations of tall trees, especialy that in ye middle, being of
elmes, another of mulberys. There is a labyrinth of cypresse, noble
hedges of ' pomegranates, fountaines, fishponds, and an aviary. There
is an artificial echo, redoubling" the words distinctly, and it is never
without some faire nymph singing to it. Standing at one of the focus's,
which is under a tree, or little cabinet of hedges, the voice seems to
descend from the clouds; at anbther as if it was under-ground. This
being at the bottom of ye garden/ we were let into another, which
being kept with all imaginable accuratenesse as to the orangery, pre-
VOL. I. G

42 ' [st. cloes. 1 644-
cious shrubes, and rare fruites, seem'd a paradise. From a tarrace in
this place we saw so many coaches, as one would hardly think could
be maintained in the whole Citty, going, late as it was in the
year, towards the Course, which is a place adjoyning, of neere an
English mile long, planted with 4 rows of trees, making a large circle
in the middle. This Course is walled about, neere breast high, wth
squar'd freestone, and has a stately arch at the entrance, with sculpture
and statues about it, built by Mary di Medices; Here it is that the
gallants and ladys of ye Court take the ayre and divert themselves, as
with us in Hide Park, the circle being capable of containing an hun
dred coaches to turne com'odiously, and the larger of the plantations
for 5 or 6 coaches a brest.
Returning through the Thuilleries, we saw a building in which are
kept wild beasts for the King's pleasure, a beare, a wolfe, a wild
boare, a leopard, &c.
27 Feb. Accompany'd with some English gent", we tooke horse to
see St. Germains en Lay, a stately country-house of the King, some
5 leagues from Paris. By the way we alighted at St. Cloes, where,
on an eminence neere the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a garden,
for the house is not very considerable, rarely water'd and furnish'd
with fountaines, statues, and groves ; the walkes are very faire ; the
fountain of Laocoon is in a large square pool, throwing the water neere
40 feet high, and having about it a multitude of statues and basines,
and is a surprising object ; but nothing' is more esteem'd than the
cascade falling from the greate stepps into the lowest and longest
walke from the Mount Parnassus, which consists of a grotto, or shell
house, on ye sum'it of the hill, wherein are divers water-workes and
contrivances to wet the spectators ; this is covered with a fayre cupola
the walles paynted with the Muses, and statues placed thick about it,
whereof some are antiq and good. In the upper walkes are two per
spectives, seeming to enlarge the allys. In this garden are many
other contrivances. The Palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. The
outer walles onely paynted afresca. In ye Court is a Volary, and the
statues of Chas. IX. Hen. III. IV. and Lewis XIII. on horseback,
mez-zo-relievod in plaster. In the garden is a small chapell ; and

RUELL. 1644.] 43
under shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvi-
dere original, wtb others. From the tarrace above is a tempest well
paynted, and there is an excellent prospect towards Paris, the mea
dows, & river.
At an inn in this village is an host who treats all the greate persons
in princely lodgings for furniture and plate, but they pay well for it,
as I have don. Indeed the entertainment is very splendid, and not
unreasonable, considering the excellent manner of dressing their meate,
and of the service. Here are many debauches and excessive revellings',
being out of observance.
About a league farther we went to see Cardinal Richelieu's villa at
Ruell. The house is small, but fairely built, in form of a castle,
moated round. The offices are towards the road, and over against it
are large vineyards walled in.
Though the house is not of the greatest, the gardens about it are so
magnificent that I doubt whether Italy has any exceeding it for all
rarities of pleasure. The garden nearest the pavilion is a parterre,
having in ye middst divers noble brasse statues, perpetually spouting
water into an ample bassin, with other figures of the same metal ; but
what is most admirable is the vast enclosure, and variety of ground,
in ye large garden, containing vineyards, cornefields, meadows, groves
(whereof one is of perennial greens), and walkes of vast lengthes, so
accurately kept and cultivated, that nothing can be more agreeable. On
one of these walkes, within a square of tall trees, is a basilisc * of
copper, wch managed by the fountaniere casts water neere 60 feet high,
and will of itself move round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape
wetting. This leads to the Citroniere, where is a noble conserve of all
those rarities ; and at the end of it is the Arch of Constantine, painted
on a wall in oyle, as large as the real one at Rome, so well don that
even a man skill'd in painting may mistake it for stone and sculp
ture. The skie and hills which seem to be betweene the arches are so
naturall that swallows and other birds, thinking to fly through, have
dashed themselves against the wall. At the further part of this walke

* The imaginary animal or serpent so called.

44 [ST. GERMA»*S. 1644.
is that plentiful though artificial cascade which rolls down a very steepe
declivity, and over the marble steps and bassins, wth an astonishing
noyse and fury ; each basin hath a jetto in it,- flowing like sheetes of
transparent glasse, especialy that which rises over the greate shell of
lead, from whence it glides silently downe a channel! thro' the middle
of a spacious gravel walke terminating in a grotto. Here are also foun
taines yl cast water to a great height, and large pondg, 2 of which
have islands for harbour of fowles, of which there is- store. One of
these islands has a receptacle for them built of vast pieces of rock,
neere 50 feet high, growne over with mosse, ivy, &c- shaded at a
competent distance with tall trees: in this the fowles* Jay eggs and
breede. We then saw a large and very rare grotto of shell-worke, in
the shape of • sa tyres and other wild fancys : in yE middle stands a
marble table, on which a fountaine playes in forms of glasses, cupps,
crosses, fanns, crownes, &c. Then the fountaineere represented a
showre of raine from the topp, mett by small jetts from below. At
going out two extravagant musqueteeres shot us wth a streme of water
from their musket barrells. Before this grotto is a long poole into
which ran divers spouts of water: from leaden escollop bassins. The
viewing this paradise made us late at St. Germains.
The first building of this palace is of Cha. V. called the Sage; but
Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it compleate, speaking as < to. the
style of magnificence then in fashion, which was wth too greate a mix
ture of ye Gotic, as may be seen in what there is remaining; of his in
ye old Castle, an irregular peece as built on ye old foundation, and
having a moate about it. It has yet some spacious & handsome roomes
of state, & a chapell neafely paynted. The new Castle is at some
distance, divided from this by a court, of a lower but more modern
designe, built by Hen. IV. To this belong 6 tarraces built of brick
& stone, descending in cascads towards the river, cut out of the naturall
hill, having under them goodly vaulted galleries; of these, 4 have sub
terranean grotts & roeks, where are represented severall objects in the
manner of sceanes, and other motions by force of water, shewn by the
light of torches onely; amongst these is Orpheus wth his musiq, &
the animalls, wch dance after his harp ; in ye 2a is the King and Dol-

PARIS. 1644-] 45
phin*; in the 3d is Neptune sounding his trumpet, his charriot drawne
by sea-horses ; in the 4th Perseus & Andromeda ; mills; hermitages,;
men fishing ; birds chirping ; and many other devices. There is also a
dry grott to refresh in, all having a fine prospect towards ye river and
the goodly country about it, especialy the forrest. At the bottom is
a parterre; the upper tarrace neere half a myle in length, wth double
declivities, arched and baluster'd wth stone, of vast and royal cost.
In the Pavilion of ye new Castle are many faire roomes, well paynted,
and leading into a very. noble garden and parke, where is a pall-maill,
in ye midst of which, on one of the sides, is a Chapell, with stone
cupola, tho' small, yet of an handsome order of architecture. Out of
ye parke you goe into ye forrest, which being very large is stor'd with
deare, wild boares,- wolves, and other wild game. The Tennis Court,
and Cavalerizzo for ye menag'd horses, are also observable.
We return'd to Paris by Madrid, another villa of the King's, built
by Francis I. and called by that name to absolve him of his oath that
he would not go from Madrid, in which he was prisoner in Spayne, 1
but from whence he . made his escape. This house is also built in a
park, walled in. We next called in at the Bonnes hommes, well situ
ated, with a faire Chapel & Library.
1 March. I went to see the Count de Liancourt's Palace in ye Rue
de Seine, which, is well built. Towards his study and bedchamber
joynes a: little garden, which tho' very narrow, by the addition of a
well painted perspective is to appearance greatly enlarged ; to this there
is another part, supported by arches, in which runs a streame of water,
rising in ye aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to flow for some miles,
by being artificially continued in the painting, when it sinkes downe
at the wall. It is a very agreeable deceipt. At the end of this garden
is a little theater, made to change wth divers pretty seanes, and the
stage so ordered that with figures of men & women paynted on light-
boards, and cut out, and, by a person who stands underneath, made to
act as if they were speaking, by guiding them, & reciting words in
diferent tones as the parts require. We were led into a round cabinet,
, • * Dauphin.

46 [PARIS. 1644.
where was a neate invention for reflecting lights by lining divers sconces
with thin shining plates of gilded copper.
In one of the rooms of state was an excellent paynting of Poussin,
being a Satyre kneeling; over ye chimney, the Coronation of ye Virgin
by Paulo Veroneze ; another Madona over the dore, and y' of Jos. by
Cigali ; in the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta attended by his page, sayd
to be of Mich. Angelo ; the Rape of Proserpine, wth a very large land-
skip of Corregio. In ye next roome some payntings of Primaticcio,
especially the Helena, the naked Lady brought before Alexander, well
paynted, and a Ceres. In the bedchamber a picture of yc Cardinal de
Liancourt of Raphael, rarely colour'd. In ye cabinet are divers pieces
of Bassano, 2 of Polemburg, , 4 of Paulo Brill, the skyes a little too
blew. A Madona of Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone ; a
Judith of Mantegna ; 3 Women of Jeronimo ; one of Stenwick ; a
Madona after Titian, and a Magdalen of the same hand, as the Count
esteemes it : 2 small pieces of Paulo Veroneze, being the Martyrdoms
of St. Justina & St. Catherine; a Madona of Lucas Van Leyden, sent
him from our King ; 6 more of old Bassano ; 2 excellent drawings of
Albert ; a Magdalen of Leonardo da Vinci ; 4 of Paulo ; a very rare
Madona of Titian, given him also by our King ; the Ecce Homo, shut
up in a frame of velvet, for the life and accurate finishing exceeding
all description. Some curious medals, and a chaplet of admirable
invention, the intaglias being all on fruit-stones. The Count was so
exceeding civill that he would needes make his Lady goe out of her
dressing-roome, that he might shew us the curiosities and pictures in it.
We went thence to visite one Mons. Perishot, one of the greatest
virtuosos in France, for his collection of pictures, achates, medalls, and
flowers, especialy tulips & anemonies. The chiefest of his payntings
was a Sebastian of Titian.
From him we went to Monsr. Frene's, who shew'd us many rare
drawings, a Rape of Helen in black chalke ; many excellent things of
Sneider ; some of Julio & Mich1. Angelo ; a Madona of Passignano ;
some things of Parmensis, & other masters.
The next morning being recom'ended to Mons. de Hausse, Pre
sident du Parliament, and once Ambassador at Venice for the French

CHARENTON. 1644.] 47
King, we were very civily receiv'd, and shew'd his Library. Amongst
his paintings were, a rare Venus fy Adonis of Veroneze, a St. Anthony
after the first manner of Corregio, and a rare Madona of Palma.
Sunday 6 March. I went to Charenton, 2 leagues from Paris, to
heare & see the manner of the French Protestant Churches service.
The place of meeting they call ye Temple, a very faire and spacious
roome, built of free-stone, very decently adorn'd with payntings of the
Tables of ye Law, the Lords Prayer & Creede. The pulpit stands at
the upper end in the middle, having an enclosure of seates about it,
where the Elders, & persons of greatest quality and strangers, sit ; the
rest of yc congregation on formes & low stooles, but none in pewes as
in our Churches, to their greate disgrace & nothing so orderly, as
here the stooles & other comber are remov'd when yc assembly rises. I
was greatly pleas'd with their harmonious singing the Psalms, which
they all learn perfectly well, their children being as duely taught as
their Catechisme.
In our passage we went by that famous bridge over ye Marne, where
echo returnes the voice of a good singer 9 or 10 times.
7th March. 1 went with some company towards Fontainebleau, a
sumptuous palace of the King's, like ours of Hampton Court, about
14 leagues from the Citty. By the way we pass through a Forest so
prodigiously ericompass'd with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone,
heaped one on another in mountainous heights, that I think the like is
not to be found elsewhere. It abounds wth staggs, wolves, boares,
& not long after a lynx or ounce was kill'd amongst them, which had
devour'd some passengers. On the sum'it of one of these gloomy pre
cipices, intermingl'd wth trees and shrubs, the stones hanging over,
& menaceing ruine, is built an Hermitage. In these solitudes rogues
frequently lurke & do mischiefe (& for whom we were all weir ap
pointed w,h our carabines), but we arived safe in the evening at
the village, where we lay at the Home, going early next morning to
the Palace.
This house is nothing so stately and uniforme as Hampton Court,
but Francis I. began much to beautifie it ; most of all, Hen. IV. and
not a little'the late King. It abounds with faire halls, chambers, and

48 [fontainbleau. 1644-
gallerys; in the longest, which is 360 foote long, & 18 broad, are
paynted the Victories of that great Prince Hen. IV That of Francis I.
call'd the grand Gallery, has all the King's Palaces paynted in it; above
these, in 60 pieces of excellent worke in fresca is the History of Ulysses,
from Homer, by Primaticcio in the tyme of Hen. III. esteemed the
most renown'd in Europ for y* designe. The Cabinet is full of excellent
pictures, especialy a Woman of Raphael. In the Hall of the Guards is
a piece of tapistry painted on ye wall, very naturally, representing the
Victorys of Cha. VII. ovCr our countrymen. In the Salle des Festins
is a rare Chimny-piece, & Hen. IV. on horseback, of white marble,
esteemed worth 18,000 crowns ; Clementia & Pax, nobly don. On
columns of jasper, 2 lions of brasse. The new Stayres, and a halfe
circular Court, are of modern and good architecture, as is a Chapell
built by Lewis XIII. all of jasper, with several incrustations of marble.
in the inside.
Having seene the roomes we went to ye Volary, wch has a cupola in
the middle of it, greate trees and bushes, it being full of birds who
drank at two fountaines. There is a faire Tennis Court & noble Stables ;
but the beauty of all are the Gardens. In ye Court of ye Fountaines
stand divers antiquities and statues, especialy a Mercury. In ye
Queenes Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountaine, with numerous other
brasse statues.
The Greate Garden, 180 toises long and 154 wide, has in the centre
a fountayne of Tyber of a Colossean figure of brasse, 'with the Wolfe
over Romulus & Rhemus. At each corner of the garden rises a foun
taine. In the Garden of the Fish Pond is a Hercules of white marble.
Next is the Garden of the Pines, and without that a Canale of ah
English mile in length, at ye end of which rise 3 jettos in the form of
a fleur de lys, of a great height; on the margin are excellent walkes
planted wth trees. The Carps come familiarly to hand [to be fed].
Hence they brought us to a spring, which they say being first discbver'd
by a dog, gave occasion of beautifying this place, both wth the Palace
and Gardens. The rocks at some distance in the' Forest yeald one1 of
the most august & stupendous "prospects imaginable. The Parke about
this place is very large, & the Towne is full of noblemen's houses.

FRANCE. 1644.] 49
Next morning we were invited by a Paynter, who was keeper of ye
pictures and rarities, to see his owne collection. We were lead thro' a
gallery of old Rosso's worke, at the end of which, in another cabinet,
were 3 JMadonas of Raphael, and 2 of Andrea del Sarto. In yb Aca
demy where ye Paynter himselfe wrought, was a St. Michael of
Raphael, very rare ; St. Jo. Baptist of Leonardo, & a Woman's head;
a Queene of Sicily & St. Margaret of Raphael ; 2 more Madonas,
whereof one very large, by ye same hand ; some more of del Sarto ; a
St. Jerome of Perino del Vaga ; the Rape of Proserpine, very good ;
and a greate number of drawings.
Returning part of our way to Paris that day, we visited an house
cal'd Maison Rouge, having an excellent prospect, grott, & fountaines,
one whereof rises 50 feet, & resembles -the noise of a tempest, battailles
of gunns, &c. at its issue.
We went to Essone, a house of Monsr. Essling, who is a greate
Vertuoso ; there are many good payntings in it, but nothing so observ
able as his gardens, fountaines, fishe-pooles, especialy y* in a triangular
forme, the water cast out by a multitude of heads about it ; there is a
noble cascade and pretty bathes, with all accommodations. Under a
marble table is a fountaine tif serpents twisting about a globe.
We alighted next at Corbeil, a towne famous for the seige of
Hen. IV. Here we slept, & return'd next morning to Paris.
18 March. I went with Sr Jo. Cotton, a Cambridg-shire Knl. a
journev into Normandy. The first day we passed by Gaillon, the
Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. The gardens are highly com'ended,
but we did not go in, intending to reach Pontoise by dinner. This
towne is built in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge over the Oize,
and is well refresh'd wth fountaines.
This is the first .{owne in Normandy, and the farthest that the Vine
yards extend to on this side of the country, which is filler of playnes,
wood, and enclosures, wth some townes towards ye sea, very like
England. We lay this night at a vilage call'd Magny. The next day, descending
a verj steepe hill, we din'd at Fleury, and after rode 5 leagues downe
St. Catharine, to Rouen, which affords a goodly prospect to the ruines
VOL. I. H

50 [FRANCE. 1644.
of that chapell & mountaine. This country so abounds with wolves,
that a shepherd whom we met told us one of his companions was
strangled by one of them the day before, & that in the midst of his
flock. The feilds are mostly planted wth pears & apples & other cider
fruites. It is plentifully furnish'd wth quarries of stone & slate, & hath
iron in abundance.
I lay at the White Crosse in Rouen, which is a very large Citty, on
ye Seine, having two smaller rivers besides, call'd ye Aubelt and Lobes.
There stand yet the ruines of a magnificent bridge of stone, now sup
ply 'd by one of boates only, to which come up vessells of considerable
burthen. The other side of ye water consists of meadows, and there
have ye Reformed a Church.
The Cathedrall Nostre Dame was built, as they acknowledge,
by the English ; some English words graven in Gotic characters
upon the front seeme to confirm it. The Towers & whole Church
are full of carving. It has 3 steeples wth a pyramid ; in one of
these I saw the famous bell so much talk'd off, 13 foote in height,
32 round, the diameter 11, weighing 40,000 pounds. In the Chapel
d'Amboise, built by a Cardinal of that name, lies his body, with
several faire monuments. The Quire has behind it a greate dragon
paynted on the wall, wth they say had don much harme to the inha
bitants till vanquished by St. Romain their Archbishop, . for which
there is an annual procession. It was now neere Easter, and many
images were expos'd with scenes & stories representing ye Passion,
made up of little puppets, to which there was great resort and devotion,
with offerings. Before the Church is a faire Palace. — St. Owen is an
other goodly Church and an Abby wth fine gardens. Here the King
hath lodgings when he makes his progresse through these parts. The
structure where the Court of Parliament is kept is very magnificent,
containing very faire halles & chambers, especialy La Ghambre d'Ore'e.
The Towne-house is also well built, and so are some gentlemen's
houses ; but most part of the rest are of timber, like our merchants of
London, in the wooden part of the Citty.
21 March. On Easter Monday we din'd at Totes, a solitary inn
between Rouen & Diepe, at which latter place we arived. This towne

FRANCE. 1644.] 51
is situated betweene two mountaines, not unpleasantly, and is washed
on yfc North by our English seas.
The Port is com'odious, but the entrance is difficult. It has one
ample & faire streete, in which is a pretty church. The Fort Pollet
consists of a strong earth-worke, and com'ands the Haven, as on the
other side dos the Castle, which is also well fortified, wth the Citadel
before it ; nor is the Towne itself a little strong. It abounds with
workmen, who make and sell curiosities of ivory and tortoise-shells ; &
indeed whatever the East Indies afford of cabinets, purcelan, natural &
exotic rarities, are here to be had wth abundant choyce.
23 March. We pass'd along the Coast by a very rocky and rugged
way, which forc'd us to alight many times before we came to Havre de
Grace, where we lay that night.
The next morning we saw the Citadel, strong and regular, well
stored with artillery, &c. The works furnish'd with faire brasse canon,
having a motto, Ratio ultima Regum. The allogiaments of the garri
son are uniforme ; a spacious place for drawing up the soldiers, a pretty
chapell, and a faire house for the Governor. The Duke of Richelieu
being now in the fort, we went to salute him; who receiv'd us very
civily, and com'andeo1 that we should be show'd whatever we desired
to see. The Citadel was built by the late Card, de Richelieu, unkle of
the present Duke, and is very strong. The haven is very capacious.
We embarqued ourselves and horses to passe to Honfleur, about 4
or 5 leagues distant, where the Seine falls into the Sea. It is a poore
fisher towne, remarkable for nothing so much as the odd yet usefull
habites which the good women weare, of beares and other skinns, as
of raggs at Dieppe, and all along these coasts.
25 March. We ariv'd at Caen, a noble and beautifull towne, on
the river Ome, which passes quite thro' it, the 2 sides of the towne
joyn'd only by a bridg of one arch. We lay at the Angel, where we
were very well us'd, the place being abundantly furnish'd with provi
sions at a cheap e rate;
The most considerable object is the great Abby and Church, large
and rich, built after, the Gotic manner, having two spires and middle
lanterne -at the West end, all of stone. The quire round and large,

52 [France. 1644.
in ye centre whereof, elevated on a square, handsome, but plain se
pulchre, is this inscription :
" Hoc Sepulchrum invictissirni juxta et clementissimi Conquestoris, Guli
elmi, dum viveret Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Caenomanorumque Prin-
cipis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris : Cum anno 1562 vesano
hereticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae
religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit,
a0 D'ni 1642. D'no Johanne de Baulhache ascetarii Protopriore. P. D. D. P."
On the other side are these monkish rhymes :
" Qui rexit rigidos Normanos, atq. Britanos
Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit,
Et Caenomanenses virtute coercuit enses,
Imperiique sui legibus applicuit,
Rex magnus parva jacet hie Gulielm5 in urna^
Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino.
Ter septem gradibus se volverat atq. duobus
Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hie obi it."
We went to ye Castle, which is strong and fayre, and so is the
Towne-house, built on the bridg which unites the two townes. Here
are Scholes and an University for the Jurists.
The whole Town is handsomly built of y* excellent stone so well
knowne by that name in England. I was lead to a pretty garden,
planted with hedges of Alaternus, having at the entrance a skreene at
an exceeding height, accurately cutt in topiary worke, with well under
stood Architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, freezes, and other orna
ments, wth greate curiosity; some of the columns wreathed, others
spiral, all according to art.
28 March. We went towards Paris, lying the first night at Evreux,
a Bishop's seate, an ancient Towne, wth a faire Cathedral.
The next day we arived at Paris.
1 April. I went to see more exactly the roomes of the fine Palace
of Luxemburge, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains, built by Mary de
Medices, and I think one of the most noble, entire, and finish'd piles,
that is to be seen, taking it with the garden and all its accomplish
ments. The gallery is of the painting of Rubens, being the history of
the Foundresses life, rarely designed ; at the end of it is the Duke of

FRANCE. 1644.] 53
Orleans's Library, well furnished wth excellent bookes, all bound in
maroquin and gilded, the valans of the shelves being of greene velvet,
fnng'd with gold. In the cabinet joyning it are onely the smaler
volumes, with 6 cabinets of medails, and an excellent collection of shells
and achates, whereof some are prodigiously rich. This Duke being
very learn' d in medails and plants, nothing of that kind escapes him.
There are other spacious, noble, and princely furnish'd roomes, which
looke towards the gardens, which are nothing inferior to the rest.
The Court below is formed into a square by a corridor, having over
the chiefe entrance a stately cupola, covered with stone ; the rest is
cloistered and arch'd on pillasters of rustiq worke. The tarrace ascend
ing before the front, pav'd wth white & black marble, is balustred with
white marble, exquisitely polish'd.
Onely the Hall below is lowe, and the stayrecase somewhat of an
heavy designe, but the faciata towards the parterre, which is also arched
& vaulted wtb stone, is of admirable beauty, and full of sculpture.
The Gardens are neere an English mile in compasse, enclos'd wtb a
stately wall, and in a good ay re. The parterre is indeed of box, but so
rarely design'd and accurately kept cut, that the embroidery makes a
wonderful effect to the lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided into 4
squares, & as many circular knots, having in ye center a noble basin
of marble neere 30 fc diameter (as I remember), in which a triton of
brasse holds a dolphin that casts a girandola of water neere 30 foote
high, playing perpetualy, the water being convey'd from Arceuil by
an aqueduct of stone, built after ye old Roman magnificence, About
this ample parterre, the spacious walkes & all included, runs a border of
freestone, adorn'd wth pedestalls for potts and statues, and part of it
neere the stepps of the terrace/ with a raile and baluster of pure white
marble. The walkes are exactly faire, long, & variously descending, and so
justly planted with limes, elms, & other trees, that nothing can be
more delicious, especially that ,of the hornebeam hedge, wch being high
and stately, butts full on the fountaine.
Towards the farther end is an excavation intended for a vast fish-
pool, but never finish'd. Neere it is an inclosure for a garden of

54 [FRANCE. 1644.
simples, well kept, and here the Duke keepes tortoises in greate
number, who use the poole of water on one side of the garden. Here is
also a conservatory for snow. At the upper part towards the Palace is
a grove of tall elmes cutt into a starr, every ray being a walk, whose
center is a large fountaine.
The rest of the ground is made into severall inclosures (all hedge-
worke or rowes of trees) of whole fields, meadowes, boxages, some of
them containing divers acres.
Next the streete side, and more contiguous to ye house, are knotts
in trayle or grasse worke, where likewise runs a fountaine. Towards
the grotto and stables, within a wall, is a garden of choyce flowers,
in which the Duke spends many thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing
is wanting to render this palace and. gardens perfectly beautifull & mag
nificent ; nor is it one of the least diversions to see the number of
persons of quality, citizens and strangers, who frequent it, and to whom
all accesse is freely permitted, so that you shall see some walkes &
retirements full of gallants and ladys ; in others melancholy fryers ; in
others studious scholars ; in others jolly citizens, some sitting or lying
on ye grasse, others runing, jumping, some playing at bowles and
ball, others dancing and singing ; and all this without the least dis
turbance, by reason of the largeness of the place.
What is most admirable is, you see no gardners or men at worke,
and yet all is kept in such exquisite order as if they did nothing else
but work ; it is so early in the morning, that all is dispatch'd and don
without yc least confusion.
I have been yc larger in the description of this Paradise, for the
extraordinary delight I have taken in those sweete retirements. The
Cabinet and Chapell neerer ye garden front have some choyce pictures.
All the houses neere this are also noble palaces, especialy petite Lux-
emburge. The ascent of the streete is handsome from its breadth,
situation, and buildings.
I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques steeple,
esteem'd the highest in the towne, from whence I had a full view of
the whole Citty and suburbs, both which, as I judge, are not so large as
London : though the dissimilitude of their formes and situations, this

FRANCE. 1644.] 55
round, London long, renders it difficult to determine ;• but there is no
comparison between the buildings, palaces, and materials, this being
entirely of stone and more sumptuous, tho' I esteeme our piazza's to
exceede their's.
In St. Innocent's Church-yard, where the story of the devouring
quality of the ground (consuming bodys in 24 hours), the vast charnells
of bones, tombs, piratnids, and sepulchres, took up much of my time,
together with the hieroglyphical characters of Nicolas Flamen's philo
sophical worke, who had founded this church, and divers other cha
ritable workes, as he testifies in his booke.
Here divers clarks get their livelyhood by inditing lettrs for poor
mayds & other ignorant people who come to them for advise, & to
write for them into ye Country, every large grave-stone serving for a
table. Joyning to this Church is a com'on fountaine, with good
relievo's on it.
The next day I was carried to see a French gentleman's curious col
lection, which abounded in faire & rich jewels of all sorts of precious
stones, most of them of greate sizes and value ; achates & onixes,
some of them admirably colour'd & antique ; nor inferior were his
landskips from the best hands, most of which he had caused to be
copy'd in miniature ; one of which, rarely painted on stone, was broken
by one of our company, by the mischance of setting it up ; but such
was the temper & civility of the gentleman, that it altered nothing of
his free & noble humor.
The next morning I went to the Garden of Monsr. Morine, who
from being an ordinary gardner is become one of ye most skillful &
curious persons in France for his rare collection of shells, flowers, &
insects. His Garden is of an exact oval figure, planted wth cypresse cutt flat
& set as even as a wall : the tulips, anemonies, ranunculus's, crocus's,
&c. are held to be of the rarest, and draw all the admirers of such
things to his house during the season. He lived in a kind of Hermitage
at one side of his garden, where his collection of purselan and coral,
whereof one is carved into a large Crucifix, is much esteemed. He has
also bookes of prints, by Albert [Durer], Van Leyden, Calot, &c.

56 [FRANCE. 1644.
His collection of all sorts of insects, especialy of Batterflys, is most
curious ; these he spreads and so medicates that no corruption invading
them, he keepes-them r irtd'rawers, so plac'd as to represent a beautifull
piece of tapistry.
He shew'd me the remarks he had made on their propagation,
wch he promis'd to publish. Some of these, as also of his best
flowers, he had caus'd to be painted in miniature by rare hinds, and
some in oyle. '« •
I went to see divers of the fairest Palaces, as that of Vendosme, very
large and stately ; Longue ville ; Guyse ; Condi ; Chevereuse. ; Nevers,
esteem'd one of the best in Paris towards the river.
I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed, by Richelieu to the
King, on condition that it should, be called by his name ; at this time
the King resided in it because of the building of the Louvre. It is a
very noble house, tho' somewhat low ; the gallerys, paintings of the
most illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queenes bathes, presence
chamber with its rich carved and gilded roofe, theatre, & large garden,
in which is an ample fountaine, grove and maille, are worthy of remark.
Here I also frequently went to see them ride and* exercise the Greate
Horse, especialy at the Academy of MonsT. du PJessis, and de Veau,
whose scholes of yt art are frequented by the Nobility \, and here also
young gentlemen are taught to fence, daunce, play', on musiq/and
something in fortification & ye mathematics. The design© is admirable,
some keeping neere an hundred brave horses, all managed to >y* greate
saddle. .. ,v >.»-
12th. I took coach to see a general muster of all the gerasi d'armes
about ye Citty in the Bois de Boulogne before their Majesties and all yB
Grandees. They were reputed to be neere > 20,000,. besides the spec
tators who much exceeded them in* number. Here they performed all
their motions, and being drawne up, horse & foote, into several figures,
represented a battell.
The sum'er now drawing neere, I determined to spends the rest of it
in some more remote towne on the river Loire ; and on 19 April I
tooke leave of Paris, and, by the way of the messenger, agreed for my
passage to Orleans.

FRANCE. 1644-] 57
The way, as indeed most of the roades in France, is paved with a
small square free-stone, so that there is little dirt and bad roads, as in
England, onely 'tis somewhat hard to ye poore horses feete, which
causes them to ride more temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or
grand pas, as they call it. We passed several wall'd townes or villages ;
amongst others of note, Chartres and Estampes, where we lay the first
night. This has a faire church.
20 April. We had an excellent road, but had like to come short
home ; for no sooner were we entred two or three leagues into ye Forest
of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the company behind
us were set on by rogues, who, shooting from ye hedges and frequent
covert, slew foure upon the spot. This disaster made such an alarme in
Orleans at or arival, that the Prevost Martial, wth his assistants, going
in persuite, brought in two whom they had shot, and exposed them in
ye greate market-place, to see if any would take cognizance of ym. I
had greate cause to give God thankes for this escape. I lay at the
White Lion, where I found Mr. John Nicholas, eldest son to Mr. Se
cretary [Nicholas]. In the night, a cat kitten'd on my bed, and left on
it a young one having six ears, eight leggs, two bodys from the navil *
downwards, and two tayles. I found it dead, but warm, in the morning
when I awaked.
21 April. The citty is well built of stone, on the side of the Loyre.
About the middle of ye river is an island, full of walkes and faire trees,
with some houses. There is a stately stone bridge, reaching to the
opposite suburbs, built likewise on the edge of an hill, from whence is
a beautifull prospect. At one end of the bridge are strong toures, and
about the middle, on one side, is the statue of ye Virgin Mary or Pieta,
with the dead Christ in her lap, as big as the life. At one side of the
Crosse kneeles Cha. VII. arm'd, and at ye other, Joan d'Arc, arm'd
like a cavalier, wth boots and spurrs, her hayre dischevel'd, as the deli-
veress of the towne from our countrymen, when they besieg'd it. The
figures are all cast in copper, with a pedistall full of inscriptions, as well
as a faire columne joyning it, which is adorn'd with fleurs de lys and a
crucifix, wth two saints proceeding as it were from two branches out
of its capital. The inscriptions on the Crosse are in Latine : " Mors

58 [FRANCE. 1644.
Christi in cruce nos a contagione labisetseturnorum morborum sanavit."
On the pedestal : " Rex in hoc signo hostes profligavit, et Johan'a
Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab impiis diruta, restituta
sunt hoc anno D'ni 1578. Jean Buret, m. f." — " Octannoq' Galliam
servitute Britannica liberavit. A Domino factum est illud, et est mira-
bile in oculis nostris ; in quorum memoria hsec nostras fidei Insignia."
To this is made an annual procession on 12 May, Masse being sung.
before it, attended with great ceremony and concourse of people. The
wine of this place is so strong, that the King's cup-bearers are, as I
was assured, sworne never to give the King any of it; but it is a very
noble liquor, and much of it transported into other countrys. The
town is much frequented by strangers for the greate purity of the lan
guage here spoken, as well as for divers other priviledges ; and the
University makes the towne much frequented by strangers, especialy
Germans, which causes the English to make no long sojourne hear,
except such as can drinke and debauch. The Citty stands in the County
of Beaulse, was once stiled a Kingdom, afterwards a'Dutchy, as at pre
sent, belonging to the second son of France. Many Councils have been
held here, and some Kings crown'd. The University is very antient,
divided now by the students into that of four nations, French, High
Dutch, Normans, - and Picardins, who have each their respective pro
tectors, severall officers, Treasurers, Consuls, Seales, &c. There are in
it two reasonable faire publiq Libraries, whence one may borrow a booke
to one's chamber, giving but a note under hand, wch is an extraordinary
custome, and a confidence that has cost many Libraries deare. The
first church I went to visit was St. Croix ; it has been a stately fabric,
but has been much ruin'd by the late Civil Warrs. They report the
towre of it to have been the highest in France. There is the beginning
of a faire reperation. About this cathedrall is a very spacious cemeterie.
The towne-hous is nobly built; with a high tower to it. The .market
place and streetes, some whereof are deliciously planted with limes, are
ample and straite, so well paved wth a kind of pebble, that I have not
seen a neater towne in France. This Citty was by Francis I. esteemed
the. most agreable of his great dominions.

FRANCE. 1644.] 59
28 April. Taking boate on the Loir, I went towards Blois, the
passage and river being both very pleasant. Passing Mehun, we dined
at Baugency, and slept at a little towne called St. Dieu. Quitting our
barke, we hired horses to Blois, by the way of Chambourg, a famous
house of ye King's, built by Francis I. in ye middle of a solitary parke,
full of deere ; the enclosure is a wall. I was particularly desirous of
seeing this palace, from the extravagance of the designe, especialy the
stayre-case, mentioned by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen
were constantly employ'd in this fabric for twelve yeares ; if so, it is
wonderful! that it was not finish'd, it being no greater than divers gen-
tlemens houses in England, both for rome or circuit. The carvings are
very rich and full. The stayre-case is devised wth four entries or ascents,
which cross one another, so that tho' four persons meete, they never
come in sight, but by small loopeholes, till they land. It consists of
274 stepps (as I remember), and is an extraordinary worke, but of far
greater expense than use or beauty. The chimnys of the house appeare
like so many towres. About the whole is a large deepe moate. The
country about it full of come and wine, with many faire noblemens
houses. We ariv'd at Blois in the evening. The town is hilly, uneven, and
rugged. It stands on the side of the Loire, having suburbs joyn'd by a
stately stone bridg, on which is a pyramid with an inscription. At the
entrance of the castle is a stone statue of Lewis XII. on horseback, as
large as life, under a Gothic state ; and a little below are these words :
" Hie ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo
Sumpsit honorata regia sceptra manu ;
Faelix quae tanti fulsit Lu* nuncia Regis
Gallica non alio principe digna fuit."
Under this is a very wide payre of gates, nailed full of wolves
and wild-boars' heads. Behind ye castle the present Duke Gastion
had begun a faire building, through which we walked into a large
garden, esteemed for its furniture one of the fairest, especialy for
simples and exotic plants, in which he takes extraordinary delight.
On the right hand is a longe gallery full of ancient statues and in
scriptions, both of marble and brasse ; the length, 300 paces, divides

60 [FRANCE. 1644.
the garden into higher and lower ground, having a very noble fountaine.
There is the portrait of an hart, taken in the forest by Lewis XII.
which has 24 antlers on its head. Iii the Collegiate Church of St. Sa
viour we saw many sepulchres of the Earls of Blois.
Sunday, being May day, we walked up into ye Pall Mall, Very long,
and so rtobly shaded wth tall trees (being in the midst of a greate wood),
that, unless that of Tours, I had not seene a statelier.'1
From hence we proceeded with a friend of mine through the adjoin
ing forest, to see if we could meete any wolves, which are here in such
numbers that they often come and take children out of the very streetes ;
yet will not the Duke, who is sov'raigne here, permite them to be de
stroy 'd. We walked five or six miles outright, but met with none ; yet
a gentleman, who was resting himselfe under a tree, wth his horse' grazing
by him, told us that, halfe an houre before, two wolves had set upon his
horse, and had in probability devour'd him, but for a dog wch lay by
him. At a little village at the end of this wood we eat excellent
creame, and visited' a castle builded on a very steepe cliff.
Bloys is a towne where the language is exactly spoken ; the inhabi
tants very courteous ; the ayre so good, that it is the ordinary nursery of
the King's children. The people are so ingenious, that, for goldsmith's
worke and watches, no place in France affords the like. The pastures
by the river are very rich and pleasant.
2 May. We took boate, passing by Charmiont^a proud castle on
ye left hand; before it is a sweete island, deliciously shaded With tall
trees. A little distance from hence we went on shore at Ambois, a very
agreeable village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue slate,
as the towns on the Loyre generally are ; but the castle chiefely invited
us, the thicknesse of whose towers, from the river to ye top, was admi
rable. We enter'd by the draw- bridg, which has an invention to let
one fall, if not premonished. It is full of halls and spacious chambers,
and one stayre-case is large enough, and sufficiently com'odious, to re
ceive a coach, and land it on the Very towre, as they told us had been
don. There is some artillery. In the ancient chapell is a stag's head
or branches, hung up by chayns, consisting of twenty brow antlers, the

RANCE. 1644.J 61
beanie bigger than a man's middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed
it is, monstrous, and yet I cannot conceive how it should be artificial:
they shew also the ribs and vertebra? of the same beast; but these might
be made of whalebone.
Leaving the Castle we pass'd Mont Louis, a village having no house
above ground, but such onely as are hewn out of the maine rocks, wch
arc of excellent free-stone. Here & there the funnell of a chimny ap
pears on the surface amongst the vineyards which are over them, and
in this manner they inhabite ye caves, as it were sea -cliffs, on one side
of the river for many miles.
We now. come, within sight of Tours, where we were design'd for the
rest of the time I had resolv'd to stay in France, the sojournment being
so agreeable. Tours is on the easy side of an hill on the river Lqyre,
having a faire bridge of stone, called St. Edme ; the streetes are very
long, straite, spacious, well built, & exceeding cleane ; the suburbs
large and pleasant, joyn'd to the citty by another bridg. ' Both the
Church and Monastry of St. Martin are large, of Gotic building, having
4 square towers, faire organs, and a stately altar where they shew the
bones & ashes of St. Martine, with other reliques. The Mall without
comparison is the, noblest in Europe for length and shade, having 7
rowes of tfye tallest and goodliest elms I had ever beheld, the innermost
of which do so embrace each other, & at such a height, that nothing can
be more solemn and majestical. Here we play'd a party or two, and
then walked about the Towne-walles, built of square stone, fill'd wth
earth, & having a moate. No citty in France exceeds it in beauty or
delight. 6 May. We went to St. Gratian, reported to have been built by our
countrymen; the dyal and clock-work are much esteem'd. The Church
has tyvo handsom towres & spires of stone, and the whole fabric is very
noble & venerable. To thjs joynes the Palace of the Archbishop, of old
and new building, with many faire roomes, and a faire garden. Here I
grew acquainted with one Mqnsr. Merey, a very good Musitian. The
Arplibishop treated me very courteously. We visited divers other
Churches, Chapells, & Monasteries, for the most part neatly built, &

62 [FRANCE. 1644.
full of pretty payntings, especialy the Convent of ye Capucines, which
has a prospect over the whole Citty, and many faire walkes.
8th. I went to see their manufactures in Silke (for in this towne
they drive a very considerable trade wth silk-wormes), their pressing &
watering the grograms and chambletts, with weights of an extraordinary
poyse, put into a rolling engine. Here I took a master of the language
and studied the tongue very diligently, recreating myself sometimes at
the Maill, and sometymes about the Towne. The house opposite my
lodging had been formerly a Palace of the King's, the outside was
totaly cover'd with fleurs de lyes, emboss'd out of ye stone. Here Mary
de Medici had her Court when she was compell'd to retire from Paris
by the persecution of the Cardinal.
25. Was the FSte Dieu, and a goodly procession of all the religious
orders, the whole streetes hung with their best tapistrys, and their,
most precious moveables expos'd ; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, ,and
pictures in abundance; the streets strew'd wth flowres, and full of
pageantry, banners, and bravery.
6 June. I went by water to visit that goodly and venerable Abby of
Marmoustier, being one of the greatest in the Kingdome. There is a
large Church of stone, wth a very high pyramid. Amongst other re
liques the Monkes shew'd us is" the Holy Ampoule, the same wth that
which sacres their Kings atRhemes, this being the one which anoynted
Hen. IV. Ascending many stepps we went into the Abbot's Palace,
where we were shew'd a vast Tun (as big as that at Heidelberg),
which they report St. Martin (as I remember) filled from one cluster
of grapes growing there.
7. We walked about 2 miles from ye Citty to an agreeable solitude
called du Plessis, a house belonging to ye King. It has many pretty
gardens, full of nightingales. In the Chapell lyes buried the famous
Poet Ronsard.
Returning, we stepp'd into a Convent of Franciscans called St.
Cosmo, where the Cloister is painted with the miracles of their St.
Francis a Paula, whose ashes lie in their Chapell, with this inscrip
tion : « Corpus Sancti Fran, a Paula 1507. 13 Aprilis. concrematur ver6

FRANCE. 1644-] 63
ab Hsereticis a° 1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hie jacent." The
tomb has 4 small pyramids of marble at each corner.
9 June. I was invited to a Vineyard, which was so artificialy planted
and supported wth arched poles that stooping downe one might see
from end to end, a very greate length, under the vines, the bunches
hanging down in abundance.
20 June. We took hors to see certain natural Caves, called Goutiere,
neare Colombiere, where there is a spring within the bowells of ye
earth very deepe, & so excessive cold that the dropps meeting wth some
stony matter it converts them into an hard stone, which hangs about
like icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures and sugar
plums as wee call them,
Neere this we went under the ground almost two furlongs, lighted
VIth candles, to see the source and spring which serves the whole Citty,
by a passage cut through the maine rock of free-stone.
28. I went to see the Palace and Gardens of Chevereux, a sweete
place. 30. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche Corbe, to the
ruines of an old & very strong Castle sayd to have ben built. by the
English, of great height, on the precipice of a dreadfull cliff, from
whence the country and river yeald a most incomparable prospect,
27 July. I heard excellent musiqat the Jesuites, who have here a
Schole and Convent, . but a meane Chapell. We had now store of those
admirable melons so much celebrated in France for the best of the
kingdom. 1 Aug1. My valet, one Garno, a Spaniard borne in Biscay, having
misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him ; he demanded of me (be
sides his wages) n° lesse then 100 crownes to carry him to his country;
refusing to pay it, as no part of our agreement, he had the impudence
to arrest me : the next day I was to appear in Court, where both our
Advocats pleaded before the Lieutennant Civile. The Judge imme
diately acquitting me, after he had reproached the Advocate who tooke
part wlb my servant, he rose from the Bench, and making a courteous
excuse to me, that being a stranger I should be so us'd, he conducted
mee through the Court to yc streete-dore. This varlet afterwards

64 [FRANCE. 1644-
threatened to pistol me. The next day I waited on the Lieutennant;. to
thanke him for his greate civility.
18 Aug. The Queene of England came to Tours, having newly
ariv'd in France, and going. for Paris. She was very nobly receiv'd by
the People and Cleargy, who went to meete her with the trained bands.
After the harangue the Archbish'p entertain'd her at his Palace, where
I paid my duty to her. The 20th she set forward to Paris.
8 Sept. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris to this place, where
I settled them in their pension and exercises.
14. We tooke post for Richlieu, passing by ITsle Bouchart, a vil
lage.— 15. We ariv'd at the Towne, and went to see the Cardinal's Palace
neare it. The Towne is in a low, marshy ground, having a small river
cut by hand, very even and straite, capable of bringing up a small vessell.
It Consists of onely one considerable streete, the houses on both sides
(as indeed throughout ye towne) built .exactly uniforme, after a modern
handsome designe. It has a large goodly Market-house and Place j oppo
site to which is the Church built of free-stone, having two. pyramids of
stone, wch stand hollow from the towers. The Church' is well-built, of a
well-ordered architecture, handsomely pav?d and adbrn'd. To this' towne
belongs an Academy, where,' besides ye exercise of the horse',' armes,
dauncing, &c. all the sciences are taught1 in the vulgar French by Pro
fessors stipendiated by the greate Cardinal, who by this, the cheape
living there, & divers priviledges, not only design'd the improvem* of
the vulgar language, but to draw people and strangers to the towne;
but since the Cardinal's death it is thinly inhabited, standing so much
out of the way, and in a place not wCll situated for health or pleasure.
He was allured to build by the name of the place, and an old house
there belonging to his ancestors. This pretty town is handsomly wall'd
about & moated, wth a kind of slight fortification, two faire gates. &
draw-bridges. Before the gate towards the Palace is a spacious circle,
where the Faire is annually kept. About a flite-shot from the towne is
the Cardinal's house, a princely pile, tho' on an old designe, not al
together Gotiq, butmix'd, inviron'd by a cleare moate. The roomes
are stately, most richly furnish'd with tissue, damask, aras, and velvet,

FRANCE

. 1644.] 65

pictures, statues, vases, & all sorts of antiquities, especialy the Csesars
in oriental alabaster. The long gallery is paynted wth the famous acts
of the Founder ; the roofe wth the life of Julius Caesar ; at the end of it
is a Cupola or singing theatre, supported by very stately pillars of black
marble. The Chapell anciently belonging to the family of the Founder.
The Court is very ample. The Gardens without are very large, and
the parterres of excellent imbrodry, set with many statues of brasse and
marble ; the groves, meadows, and walkes are a real paradise.
16. We return'd to Tours, from whence, after 19 weekes sojourne,
we went towards the more Southern parte of France, minding now to
shape my course so as I might winter in Italy.
16 Sept. With my friend Mr. Thicknesse and o1' guide we went the
first day 7 leagues to a castle called Chenonceaux, built by Cath. de
Medici, and now belonging to the Duke of Vendosme, standing on a
bridg. In the gallery, amongst divers other excellent statues, is that
of Scipio Africanus, of oriental alabaster.
21st. We pass'd by Ville Franche, where we din'd, and so by
Muneton, lying at Viaron au mouton, wch was 20 leagues. The next
-day by Murg to Bourges, 4 leagues, where we spent the day. This is
the capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch,
situated on the River Eure. It stands high, is strong, & well placed
for defence. It is inviron'd with meadows and vines ; the living here
is very cheap. In the suburbs of St. Prie there is a fountaine of sharp
water wch they report wholesome against the stone. They shew'd us «.
vast tree wch they say stands in the center of France. The French
tongue is spoken with great purity in this place. St. Stephen's Church
is ye Cathedrall, well built a la Gotic, full of sepulchres without-side,
with the representation of the final judgment over one of the ports.
Here they shew the Chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a famous soul dier,
who had serv'd six Kings of France in their warrs.
St. Chapell is built much like that at Paris, full of reliques, and the
bones of one Briat, a gyant of 15 cubits high. This was built by
John Duke of Berry,, and they shew'd the coronet of the dukedom.
The great tour is a Pharos for defence of the towne, very strong, in
thicknesse 18 foote, fortified with a grafj and workes ; there is a garri-
VOL. I. K

66 [FRANCE. 1644.
son in it, and a strange engine for throwing great stones, and the yroii
Cage where Lewes Duke of Orleans was kept by Chas. VIII. Neere
ye Towne-house stands the CoUedge of Jesuites, where was heretofore
an Amphitheatre. I was courteously entertayned by a Jesuit, who had
us into ye garden. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth seeing.
Bourges is an Archbishopric, Primate of Aquitain. I tooke my leave
of Mr. Nicholas and some other English there; & on the 23d proceeded
on my journey by Pont du Charge ; and lay that evening at Coulaiure,
13 leagues.
24th, by Franchede St. Menou, thence to Moulins where we din'd.
This is the chiefe towne of the Bourbonois, on yc river Allier very
navigable. The streetes are faire ; the Castle has a noble prospect,
and has been the seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty parke and gar
den. After dinner came many who offered knives and scissars to sell,
it being a towne famous for those trifles. This Dutchy of Bourbon is
ordinarily assigned for the dowry of the Queenes of France.
Hence we tooke horse for Varenne, an obscure village;, where we lay
that night. The next day we went somewhat out of ye way to see the
towne of Bourbon l'Archambaut, from whose ancient and ragged
castle is deriv'd the name of the present Royal Family of France. The
castle stands on a flinty rock, overlooking the towne. In the midst of
the streetes are some bathes of medicinal waters, some of them excessive
hot, but nothing so neately wall'd & adorn'd as ours in Somersetshire ;
and indeede they are chiefly for drinking, our Queen being then lodged
there for that purpose. After dinner I went to see the St. Chapel, a
prime place of devotion, where is kept one of the thornes of our Saviour's
crowne, & a piece of the real crosse ; excellent paintings on glasse,
and some few statues of stone and wood, which they shew for curio
sities. We went forward to Palisse, a village that lodged us that
night. 26 Sept. We ariv'd at Roan, where we quitted our guide and
tooke post for Lions. Roan seem'd to me one of the pleasantest and
most agreeable places imaginable for a retyred person: besides the
situation on the Loire, there are excellent provisions cheape itnd
aboundant.

FRANCE. 1644. J 67
It being late when we left this towne, we rode no farther than
Tarrare that night (passing St. Saforin) a little desolate village in a
vally neere a pleasant streame, encompass'd with fresh meadows and
vineyards. The hills which we rod over before we descended, and after
wards on the Lions side of this place, are high and mountainous ; fir
and pines grow frequently ort them. The ayre methought was much
alter'd, as well as the manner of the houses, which are built flatter,
more after the Easterne manner. Before I went to bed I tooke a land-
skip of this pleasant terrace. There follow'd a most violent tempest of
thunder and lightning.
27. We rod by Pont Charu to Lions, which being but 6 leagues
we soone accomplish'd it, having made 85 leagues from Toures in seven
days. There at the Golden Lion, rue de Flandre, I met divers of my
acquaintance, who coming from Paris design'd for Italy. We lost no
time in seing the Citty, because of being ready to accompany these
gentlemen in their journey.
Lions is excellently situated on the confluence of the rivers Soane
and Rhodanus, which wash the walls of the Citty in a very rapid
streame ; each of these has its bridg ; that over the Rhone consists of
28 arches. The two high cliffs called St. Just and St. Sebastian are
very stately; on one of them stands a strong fort, garrison'd. We
vissited the Cathedrall, St. Jean, where was one of the fairest clockes
for art and buisy invention I had ever seene. The fabriq of the Church
is Gotic, as are likewise those of St. Estienne and St. Croix. From
the top of one of the towers of St. Jean (for it has 4) we beheld the
whole citty and country, with a prospect reaching to the Alpes, many
leagues distant. The Archbishop's Palace is fairely built. The Church
of St. Niser is the greatest ; that of the Jacobins is well built. Here
are divers other fine Churches, with other noble buildings. We went
to that of the Charite", or greate Hospital for poor infirm people, en
tertaining about 1500, with a schoole, granary, gardens, and all con
veniences, maintained at a wonderfull expence, worthy seeing. The
place of the Belle Court is very spacious, observable for the view it
affords, so various and agreeable, of hills, rocks, vineyards, gardens,
precipices, and other advantages, presenting themselves together. The

68 [FRANCE. 1644.
Pall Mall'is sett with faire trees. This stately, cleame, and noble Citty
built all of stone, abounds in persons of quality and rich merchants.
Those of Florence obtain greate privileges above the rest. In the
Towne-house they shew 2 tables of brass on wch is engraven Claudius's
speech to the Senat as to giving the Towne the Roman priviledges.
There are also other antiquities.
30 Sept. We bargain'd with a waterman to carry us to Avignon on
the river, and got the .first night to Vienne in Dauphine*. This is an
Archbishoprick, and the Province gives title to the Heir Apparent of
France. Here we supped and lay, having, amongst other dainties, a
dish of trufles, an earth nut, found out by an hogg train'd to it, and
for which those animals are sold at a great price *. We were shew'd
the ruines of an Amphitheatre pretty entire ; and many handsome Pa
laces, especialy that of Pontius Pilate not far from the towne, at the
foote of a solitary mountain neere the river, having 4 pinnacles. Here
'tis reported he pass'd his exile, and precipitated himselfe into the lake
not far from it. The house is modern, and seemes to be the seate of
some gentleman, being in a very pleasant place. The Cathedral of
Vienne is St. Maurice ; and there are many other pretty buildings, but
nothing more so then the Mills where they hammer and polish the
sword-blades. Hence the next morning we swam (for the river here is so rapid
that the boat was only steered) to a small village called Tain, where
we dyn'd.
Over against this is another towne named Tournon, where is a very
strong castle under a hig^h precipice. To the castle joynes the Jesuits
CoUedge where they have a fay re library. The prospect was so
tempting that I designed it with my crayon.
We then came to Valence, a capital Citty carrying the title of a
Dutchy, but the Bishop is now sole lord temporal of it and the coun
try about it. The towne having an University famous for the study of
the civil law, is much frequented ; but the Churches are none of the
fairest, having been greatly defaced in the time of the warrs. The

In England they are found by dogs.

FRANCE. 1644-] 69
streets are full of pretty fountaines. The Citadell is strong, and gar-
rison'd. Here we pass'd the night. The next morning by Pont St.
Esprit, which consists of 22 arches ; in the piers of the arches are
windowes as it were, to receive the water when it is high and full.
At this place we went on shore, it being very dangerous to passe the
bridg in a boat.
Hence leaving our barg we tooke horse, seing at a distance the Towne
and Principality of Orange, and lodging one night on the way we
ariv'd at noone at Avignon. This towne fias belonged to the Popes
ever since the time of Clement VI. being in 1352 alienated by Jane
Queene of Naples and Sicily. Entering the gates the soldiers at the
guard tooke our pistols and carbines, and examin'd us very strictly;
after that, having obtain'd the Governor's leave and the Vice-Legat's
to tarry three days, we were civilly conducted to our lodging. The
City is on the Rhodanus, and divided from the newer part or towne,
which is on the other side of the river, by a very faire stone bridge
(which has been broken) ; at one end is a very high rock, on which is
a strong castle well furnish'd with artillery. The walls of the Citty ate
of large square free-stone, the most neate" and best in repaire I ever saw.
It is full of well-built Palaces; those of the Vice-Legate and Archbishop
being the most magnificent. There are many sumptuous Churches,
especialy St. Magdalene and St. Martial, wherein [the tomb of] the
Card1. d'Amboise is the most observable. Clement VI. lies buried in
that of the Celestines, the altar whereof is exceeding rich. There is
the tomb of Laura the celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We saw the
Arsenal, the Pope's Palace, and the Synagogue of the Jewes who here
are distinguished by red hats. Vaucluse, so much renowned for the
solitude of Petrarch, we beheld from the Castle, but could not go
to visit it for want of time. We now took mules and a guide for
Marseilles. 30th Sept. We lay at Loumas ; the next morning came to Aix,
having pass'd that extremely rapid and dangerous river of Durance. In
this tract all the heathes or com'ons are cover'd with rosemary, lavender,
lentiscs, and the like sweet shrubes, for many miles together, which to
me was very pleasant. Aix is the chiefe Citty of Provence, being a

^0 [FRANCE. 1644-
Parliament and Presidential Town, with other Royal Courts and Metro
politan jurisdiction. It is well built, the houses very high and the
streetes ample. The Cathedrall, St. Saviour's, is a noble pile adorn'd
with innumerable figures especialy that of St. Michael ; the Baptisterie,
the Palace, the Court, built in a most spacious Piazza, are very faire.
The Duke of Guise's house is worth seeing, being furnished with many
antiquities in and about it. The Jesuites have here a Royal CoUedge,
and the City is an University,
7 Octr. We had a most delicious journey to Marseilles, thro' a
1 country sweetely declining to the South and Mediterranean coasts,
full of vine-yards and olive-yards, orange trees, myrtils, -pomegranads,
and the like sweete plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated
villas to the number of above 1500 built all of freestone, and in
prospect shewing as if they were so many heapes of snow dropp'd out
of the clouds amongst those perennial greens. It was almost at the
shutting of the gates that we arived. Marseilles is on the sea coast,
on a pleasant rising ground, well walled, with an excellent port for
ships and gaily s, secur'd by a huge chayne of yron drawn across the
harbour at pleasure, and there is a well-fortified tower with 3 other
forts, especialy that built on a rock ; but the castle commanding the
Citty is that of Nostre dame de la Guard. In the Chapel hung up
divers crocodiles skinns.
We went to visite the Gallys, being about 25 ; the Captaine of the
Gaily Royal gave us most courteous entertainement in his cabine, the
slaves in the interim playing both loud and soft musiq very rarely-
Then he shew'd us how he commanded their motions with a nod and
his whistle, making them row out. The spectacle was to me new and
strange, to see so many hundreds of miserably naked persons, having
their heads shaven close and having onely high red bonnets, a payre
of course canvas drawers, their whole backs and leggs naked, doubly.
chayn'd about their middle and leggs, in couples, and made fast to
their seates, and all commanded in a trise by an imperious and cruell
seaman. One Turke he much favor'd, who waited on him in his
cabin but with no other dress than the rest, and a chayne lock'd about
his leg but not coupled. This gaily was richly carv'd and gilded, and

FRANCE. 1644-] 71
most of the rest were very beautifull. After bestowing something on
the slaves, the captain sent a band of them to give us musiq at dinner
where we lodged. I was amaz'd to contemplate how these miserable
catyfs lie in their gaily crowded together, yet there was hardly one but
had some occupation by which, as leisure and calmes permitted, they
gat some little monye, insomuch as some of them have, after many
yeares of cruel servitude, been able to purchase their liberty. Their
rising forward and falling back at their oare is a miserable spectacle,
and the noyse of their chaines with the roaring of the beaten waters
has something of strange and fearfull to one unaccustom'd to it. They
are rul'd and chastiz'd by strokes on their backs and soles of theire
feete on the least disorder, and without the least humanity ; yet are
they chereful and full of knavery.
In the church of St. Victoire is that Saint's head in a shrine of
silver which weighs 600 lb. Nostre Dame is well built ; it is the
Cathedrall. The Duke of Guyse has a Palace : there is the Palais of
Justice, the Maison du Roy, but nothing is more strange than the
great number of slaves working in the streets, and carrying burthens,
with their confus'd noises and gingling of their huge chaynes. The
cheife trade of the towne is in silks and drougs out of Africa, Syria,
and Egypt, and Barbary horses which are brought hither in great
numbers. The towne is govern'd by 4 Captaines, has three Consuls
and one Assessor, three Judges Royal ; the Merchants have a Judge
for ordinary causes. Here we bought umbrellas against the heats, and
consulted of our journey to Canes by land, for feare of the Pickaron
Turkes, who make prize of many small vessels about these parts, we
not finding a gaily bound for Genoa, whither we were design'd.
9 Oct'. We tooke mules,, passing the first night very late in sight
of St. Baume, and the solitary grott where they affirme Mary Magda
len did her pennance. The next day. we lay at Perigueux, a Citty
built on an old foundation, witnesse the ruines of a mOst stately am
phitheater which I went out to design, being about a flight shoote
from the Towne ; they call it now the Rolsies. There is a strong towre
neere the Towne call'd the Visone, but the Towne and Citty are at
some distance from each other. It is a bishoprick; has a Cathedral ;

72 [mediterranean. 1644.
with divers noblemen's houses in sight of the sea. The place was for
merly call'd Forum Julij, well known by Antiquaries.
10th Octr. We proceeded by the ruines of a stately aqueduct. The
soile about the Country is rocky, full of pines and rare simples.
11. We lay at Canes, which is a small Port on the Mediterranean ;
here we agreed with a seaman to carry us to Genoa, and having pro-
cur'd a bill of health (without which there is no admission at any towne
in Italy,) we embarq'd on the 12th. We touched at the Islands
of St. Margaret and St. Honore, lately retaken from the Spanyards
with great bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here, having payd some
small duty, we bought some trifles offer'd us by the souldiers, but
without going on shore. Hence we coasted within 2 leagues of An-
tibes, which is the utmost towne in France. Thence by Nice, a Citty
in Savoy built all of brick, which gives it a very pleasant appearence
towards the sea, having a castle built very high, which com'ands it.
We sailed by Morgus, now cal'd Monaco, having passed Villa Franca,
heretofore Portus Herculis, when, ariving after the gates were shut,
we were forc'd to abide all night in the barg, which was put into the
haven the wind coming contrary. In the morning we were hastned
away, having no time permitted us by our avaricious master to go up
and see this strong and considerable place ; it now belongs to a Prince
of the family of Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has put both it and himself
under the protection of the French. The situation is on a promontory
of solid stone and rock. The towne walls very fayre. We were told
that within it was an ample court, and a palace, furnish'd with the most
rich and princely moveables, and a collection of statues, pictures, and
massie plate to an immense amount.
We sailed by Menton and Vintimiglia, being the first Citty of the
Republiq of Genoa : supp'd at Oneglia, where we anker'd and lay on
shore. The next morning we coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica
and St. Remo, where the shore is furnish'd with evergreens, oranges,
citrons, and date^trees ; we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morning
by Diano Aroisso, famous for the best corrall fishing, it growing in
aboundance on the rocks deepe and continualy covered by the sea.
By Albenga and Finale a very faire and strong towne belonging to

mediterranean. 1644.J 73
the King of Spain, for which reason a Monsieur in our vessell was
extreamely afraide, as was the patron of our barke, for they frequently
catch French prizes as they creepe by these shores to go into Italy;
he therefore ply'd both sayles and oars to get under the protection of a
Genoese gaily that pass'd not far before us, and in whose company we
sayl'd as far as the Cape of Savona, a towne built at the rise of the
Apenines; for all this coast (except a little at St. Remo) is an high
and steepe mountainous ground consisting all of rock marble, without
any grasse, tree, or rivage, formidable to looke on. A strange object
it is to consider how some poore cottages stand fast on the declivities of
these precipices, and by what steps the inhabitants ascend to them.
The rocks consist of all sorts of the most precious marbles.
Here, on the 15th, forsaking our gaily, we encounter'd a little foule
weather, which made us creepe Terra, Terra, as they call it, and so a
vessell that encounter'd us advised us to do; but our Patron, striving to
double the point of Savona, making out into the wind put us into
great hazard, for blowing very hard from land betwixt those horrid
gapps of the mountaines, it set so violently as rais'd on the sudden so
great a sea that we could not recover the weather -shore for many
houres, insomuch that, what with the water already enter'd, and the
confusion of fearful passengers (of which one who was an Irish Bishop,
and his brother, a priest, were confessing some as at the article of
death), we were almost abandon'd to despaire, our pilot himselfe giving
us up for lost. And now, as we were weary with pumping and laving
out the water, almost sinking, it pleas'd God on the suddaine to
appease the wind, and with much ado and greate perill we recovered the
shore, which we now kept in view within halfe a league, in sight of
those pleasant villas, and within scent of those fragrant orchards wch
are on this coast, full of princely retirements for the sumptuousnesse of
their buildings and noblenesse of the plantations, especialy those at St.
Pietro d'Arena, from whence, the wind blowing as it did, might*
perfectly be smelt the joys of Italy in the perfumes of orange, citron,
and jassmine flowers for divers leagues seaward *.
* Mr. Evelyn was so struck with this circumstance of the fragrancy of the air on this coast, that
he has noticed it again in his Dedication of the Fumifugium to King Charles the Second.
VOL. I. L

74 [GENOA. 1644.
16 Octr. We got to anker under the Pharos, or watch-tower, built
on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole of Genoa, the weather being
still so fowle that for two houres at least we durst not stand into
the haven. Towards evening we adventured, and came on shore by
the Prattiq-house, where, after strict examination by the Syndics, we
were had to the Ducal Palace, and there, our names being taken, we
were conducted to our inne kept by one Zacharias an Englishman.
I shall never forget a story of our host Zachary, who on the relation
of our perill told us another of his owne, being shipwreck'd, as he
affirm'd solemnly, in the middle of a greate sea somewhere in the West
Indies, that he swam no lesse than 22 leagues to another island, with
a tinder-box wraped up in his hayre, which was not so much as wett
all the way ; that picking up the carpenter's toOles with other provi
sions in a chest, he and the carpenter, who accompany'd him, (good
swimers it seemes both) floated the chest before them, and ariving at
last in a place full of wood, they built another vessell and so escaped.
After this story we no more talked of our danger, Zachary put us
quite downe.
17 Octr. Accompany'd by a most courteous merchand call'd Tom-
son, we went to view the rarities. The Citty is built in the hollow or
bosom of a mountaine, whose ascent is very steepe, high, and rocky,
so that, from the Lantern and Mole to the hill, it represents the shape
of a theater ; the streetes and buildings so ranged one above another
as our seates are in play-houses ; but, from their mater/ials, beauty,
and structure, never was an artificial scene more beautifull to the eye,
nor is any place, for the size of it, so full of well-design'd and stately
palaces, as may be easily concluded by that rare booke in a large folio
which the great virtuoso and paynter Pauli Rubens has published, tho'
it contains [the description of] only one streete and 2 or 3 churches.
The first Palace we went to visit was that of Hieronymo del Negros,
to which we pass'd by boate crosse the harbour. Here I could not but
observe the sudden and devilish passion of a seaman, who plying us
was intercepted by another who interpos'd his boate before him and
tooke us in ; for the teares gushing out of his eyes, he put his finger in
his mouth and almost bit it off by the joyrit, shewing it to his anta-

GENOA.

1644.] 75

gonist as an assurance to him of some bloudy revenge if ever he came
neere that part of the harbour again. Indeed this beautifull Citty is
more stayn'd with such horrid acts of revenge and murthers than any
one place in Europ, or haply in the world, where there is a political
government, which makes it unsafe to strangers. It is made a gaily
matter to carry a knife whose point is not broken off.
This Palace of Negros is richly furnish'd with the rarest pictures ;
on the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove of stately trees amongst
which are sheepe, shepherds, and wild beasts, cut very artificially in a
grey stone ; fountaines, rocks, and fish-ponds : casting your eyes one
way, you would imagine yourselfe in a wildernesse and silent country;
sideways, in the heart of a greate citty; and backwards, in the middst
of the sea. All this is within one acre of ground. In the house I
noticed those red-plaster flores which are made so hard, and kept so
polished, that for some time one would take them for whole pieces of
porphyrie. I have frequently wonder'd that we never practic'd this in
England for cabinets and rooms of state *, for it appears to me beyond
any invention of that kind ; but by their carefull covering them with
canvas and fine mattresses, where there is much passage, I suppose
they are not lasting in their glory.
There are numerous other Palaces of particular curiositys, for the
merchands being very rich have, like our neighbours the Hollanders,
little or no extent of ground to employ their estates in : as those in
pictures and hangings, so these lay it out on marble houses and rich
furniture. One of the greatest here for circuit is that of the Prince d'Orias,
which reaches from the sea to the sum'it of the mountaines. The
house is most magnificently built without, nor less gloriously furnish'd
within, having whole tables -j* and bedsteads of massy silver, many
of them sett with achates, onyxes, cornelians, lazulis, pearls, turquizes,
arid other precious stones. The pictures and statues are innumerable.
To this Palace belong three gardens, the first whereof is beautified with

* There are such at Hard wick Hall in Derbyshire, a seat of the Duke of Devonshire.
f One of which, Lassells says, weighed 24,000 lbs, (p. 94).

^6 [GENOA. 1644-
a terrace, supported by pillars of marble : there is a fountaine of eagles,
and one of Neptune with other Sea-gods, all of the purest white
marble; they stand in a most ample basine of the same stone. At
the side of this garden is such an aviary as Sr Fra. Bacon describes in
his Sermones fdelium, or Essays, wherein grow trees of more than
two foote diameter, besides cypresse, myrtils, lentiscs, and other rare
shrubs, which serve to nestle and pearch all sorts of birds, who have
ayre and place enough under their ayrie canopy, supported with huge
iron worke, stupendious for its fabrick and the charge. The other two
gardens are full of orange-trees, citrons, and pomegranads, fountaines,
grotts, and statues ; one of the latter is a Colossal Jupiter, under which
is the sepulchre of a beloved dog, for the care of which one of this
family receiv'd of the K. of Spaine 500 crownes a yeare during the life
of that faithfull animal. The reservoir of water here is a most ad
mirable piece of art ; and so is the grotto over against it.
We went thence to the Palace of the Dukes, where is also the Court
of Justice ; thence to the Merchants Walke, rarely covered. Neere *
the Ducal Palace we saw the publiq armoury, which was almost all
new, most neatly kept and order'd, sufficient for 30,000 men. We
were shew'd many rare inventions and engines of warr peculiar to that
armory, as in the state where gunns were first put in use. The garrison
of the towne chiefly consists of Germans and Corsicans. The famous
Strada Nova, built wholly of polish'd marble, was design'd by Rubens,
and for statelinesse of the buildings, paving, and evennesse of the
streete, is far superior to any in Europ, for the number of houses ; that
of Don Carlo d'Orias js a most magnificent structure. In the gardens
of the old Marquiss Spinola I saw huge citrons hanging on the trees,
apply'd like our apricots to the walls. The Churches are no less
splendid than the Palaces : that of St. Francis is wholly built of Parian
marble ; St. Lawrence, in the middle of the City, of white and black
polish'd stone, the inside wholly incrusted with marble and other pre
cious materials ; on the altar of St. John stand 4 sumptuous columns of
porphyry ; and here we were shew'd an emerald supposed to be one
* Lassells says, in the Palace.

GENOA. 1644.] f7
of the largest in the world *. The Church of St. Ambrosio belonging
to the Jesuites, will, when finish'd, exceed all the rest, That of the
Annunciada, founded at the charges of one family f , in the present and
future designe can never be outdone for cost and art. The Mole is a
worke of solid huge stone stretching neere 600 paces into the main sea,
and secures the harbour, heretofore of no safety. Of all the wonders of
Italy, for the art and nature of the designe, nothing parallels this J.
We pass'd over to the Pharos, or Lantern, a towre of very great height.
Here we tooke horses and made the circuite of the Citty as far as the
new walles would let us ; they are built of a prodigious height, and with
Herculean industry, witnesse those vast pieces of whole mountaines
which they have hewn away, and blown up with gunpowder, to render
them steepe and inaccessible. They are not much lesse than § 20 Eng
lish miles in extent, reaching beyond the utmost buildings of the City.
From one of these promontories we could easily discern the Island of
Corsica ; and from the same, Eastward, we saw a Vale having a great
torrent running thro' a most desolate barren country; and then turning
our eyes more Northward we saw those delicious Villas of St. Pietro
d'Arena, which present another Genoa to you, the ravishing retire
ments of -the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much paine, we de
scended towards the Arsenale, where the gallys lie in excellent order.
The inhabitants of this City are much affected to tbe Spanish mode
and stately garbe ||. From the narrowness of the streetes they use
sedans and litters, and not coaches.
* Lassells calls it a great dish, in which they say here that our Saviour ate the Paschal Lamb
with his Disciples; but he adds that he finds no authority for iHn any ancient writer, and that
Venerable Bede writes that the dish used by our Saviour was of silver. Of an authentic relic of St.
John he observes that Baronius writes credibly.
f Two brothers, named Lomellini, allow the third part of their gains. Lassells.
% The Break-water now (1816) forming at Plymouth is at least as stupendous a work.
§ Lassells says, finished in IS months, and yet 6 miles in compass, p. 83.
|| Thus described by Lassells : broad hats without hatbands, broad leather girdles with steel
buckles, narrow britches with long-waisted doublets and hanging sleeves. The great ladies go in
guard infanta's (child preservers) ; that is, in honible overgrown vertigals of whalebone, which
being put about the waiste of the lady, and full as broad on both "sides as she can reach with her
hands, bear out her coats in such a manner that she appears to be as broad as long. The men look
like tumblers that leap thro' hoops, and the women like those that anciently danced the Hobby
horse in country mummings. p. 96.

78 [pisa. 1644.
19 Octr. We embarqUed in a filuca for Ligorne [Leghorn], but the
sea running very high we put in at Porta Venere, which we made with
peril, between 2 narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed
with great velocity ; but we were soone delivered into as great a calme
and a most ample harbor, being the Golpho di Spetia. From hence
we could see Pliny's Delphini Promontorium, now call'd Cap fino.
Here stood that famous City of Luna, whence the Port was named Lu-
naris, being about 2 leagues over, more resembling a lake than an
haven, but defended by castles and excessive high mountaines. We
landed at Lerici, where, being Sunday, was a great procession, carry
ing the Sacrament about the streetes in solemn devotion. After dinner
we took post horses,, passing through whole groves of olive-trees, the
way somewhat rugged and hilly at first, but afterwards pleasant. We
passed thro' the townes of Sarazana and Massa, and the vast marble
quarries of Carrara, and lodged in an obscure inn at a place called
Viregio. The next morning we ariv'd at Pisa, where I met my old
friend Mr. Thos. Henshaw, who was then newly come out of Spaine,
and from whose company I never parted till more than a yeare after.
The City of Pisa is as much worth seeing as any in Italy ; it has con
tended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia, Sicily, and even Carthage. The
Palace and Church of St. Stephano (where the order of knighthood called
by that name was instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside thereof
being altogether of polish'd marble ; within it is full of tables relating to
this order; over which hang divers banners and pendents, with other
trophies taken by them from the Turkes, agairist whom they are particu
larly oblig'd to fight; tho' a religious order, they are permitted to marry.
At the front of the Palace stands a fountaine, and the statue of the greate
Duke Cosmo. The Campanile, or Settezonio, built by John Venipont,
a German, consists of several orders of pillars, 30 in a row, desip-n'd to
be much higher. It stands alone on the right side of the Cathedrall,
strangely remarkable for this, that the beholder would expect it to fall,
being built exceedingly declining*, by a rare addresse of the architect;
and how it is supported from falling I think would puzzle a good geome-

Sec pp. 82, 171.

PISA. 1644.J 79
trician. The Domo, or Cathedrall, standing neere it, is a superb struc
ture, beautified with 6 columns of greate antiquity ; the gates are of
brasse, of admirable workmanship. TheCemetere cal'd Campo Santo is
made of divers gaily ladings of earth formerly brought from Jerusalem,
said to be of such a nature as to consume dead bodies in fourty houres.
'Tis cloistred with marble arches ; here lies buried the learned Philip
Decius who taught in this University. At one side of this Church
stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessell which heretofore
contain'd the tribute paid yearly by the Citty to Caesar. It is plac'd, as
I remember, on a pillar of opilestone, with divers other antiq urnes.
Neere this, and in the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni,
built of pure white marble and cover'd with so artificial a cupola that
the voice uttered under it seemes to breake out of a cloud. The font and
pulpit supported by 4 lyons is of inestimable value for the preciousnesse
of the materials. The place where these buildings stand they call the
Area. Hence we went to the CoUedge, to which joynes a Gallery so
furnish'd with natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells, dry'd animals,
skelletons, &c. as is hardly to be seen in Italy. To this the Physiq
Garden lyes, where is a noble palm-tree and very fine water-workes.
The river Arno runs through the middle of this stately Citye, whence
the streete is named Longarno. It is so ample that the Duke's gallys,
built in the Arsenal here, are easily conveyed to Livorno; over the river
is an arch, the like of which, for its flatness, and serving for a bridge, is
no where in Europ. The Duke has a stately Palace, before which is
placed the statue of Ferdinand the Third ; over against it is the Ex
change, built of marble. Since this Citty came to be under the Dukes
of Tuscany it has been much depopulated, tho' there is hardly in Italy
any wcb exceeds it for stately edifices. The situation of it is low and
flat, but the inhabitants have spacious gardens and even fields within
the walls.
21 Oct". We tooke coach to Livorno, thro' the Great Duke's new
Parke full of huge corke-trees, the underwood all myrtils, amongst
which were many buffalos feeding, a kind of wild ox, short-nos'd, with
homes revers'd ; those who worke with them com'and them as our
bearewards do the beares, with a ring thro' the nose, and a cord.

80 [leghorn. 1644.
Much of this Parke, as well as a greate part of the country about it, is
very fenny, and the ayre very bad.
Ligorne is the prime Port belonging to all the Duke's territo
ries ; heretofore a very obscure Towne, but since Duke Ferdinand
has strongly fortified it (after the moderne way), has drain'd the
marshes by cutting a channell thence to Pisa navigable 16 miles, and
has rais'd a Mole, emulating that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it
is become a place of great receipt; it has also a place for the gallys,
where they lye safe. Before the sea is an ample Piazza for the market,
where are the statues in copper of the fower slaves, much exceeding
the life for proportion, and, in the judgm* of most artists, one of the
best pieces of modern worke *. Here, especialy in this Piazza, is
such a concourse of slaves, Turkes, Mores, and other nations, that
the number and confusion is prodigious ; some buying, others selling,
others drinking, others playing, some working, others sleeping, fight-
ino-, singing, weeping, all nearly naked, and miserably chayn'd.
Here was a tent, where any idle fellow might stake his liberty against
a few crownes, at dice or other hazard, and, if he lost, he was imme
diately chayn*d and led away to the gallys, where he was to serve a
tearm of yeares, but from whence they seldom return' d : many sottish
persons in a drunken bravado would try their fortune in this way.
The houses of this neate Towne are very uniforme, and excellently
paynted a fresca on the outer walls with representations of many of
their victories over the Turkes. The houses, though low on account
of the earthquakes wcb frequently happen here (as did one during
my being in Italy) are very well built ; the Piazza is very fayre and
com'odious, and with the Church whose 4 columns at the portico are
of black marble polish'd, gave the first hint to the building both of
the Church and Piazza in Covent Garden with us, tho' very imper
fectly persu'd.
22 Oct. From Livorno I took coach to Empoly, where we lay, and
the next day ariv'd at Florence, being recommended to the house

* They had attempted to steal a galley, meaning to have rowed it themselves, but were taken
in this great enterprize. Lassells, p. "233.

FLORENCE. 1644.J 81
of Sig. Baritiere, in the Piazza dal Spirito Santo, where we were
exceedingly well treated. Florence is at the foot of the Appenines,
the West part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified
with more than a thousand houses and country palaces of note, belong
ing to gentlemen of the towne. The river Arno runs through this
Citty, in a broad but very shallow channell, dividing it, as it were,, in
the middle ; and over it are fower most sumptuous bridges of stone.
On that nearest to our quarter are the 4 Seasons in white marble ;
on another are the goldsmiths shops ; at the head of the former stands
a column of opite on which is a statue of Justice with her balance
and sword, cut out of porphyrie, and the more remarkable for being
the first which had been carved out of that hard material, and brought
to perfection after the art had been utterly lost ; they say this was done
by hardening the tools in the juice of certaine herbs. This §tatue was
erected in that corner because there Cosmo was first saluted with the
newes of Sienna being taken.
Neere this is the famous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely piece, of
architecture, in a- rustiq manner. The Palace of Pitti was built by
that family, but of late greatly beautified by Cosmo with huge square
stones of the Doric, Ionic, and the Corinthian orders, with a terrace
at each side having rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that ends
in a cascade seen from the great gatej and so forming a vista to the
gardens. Nothing is more , admirable than the vacant stayrecase,
marbles,- statues, urnes, pictures, courte, grotto, and waterworkes. In
t|ie quadrangle is a 'huge jetto of water in a volto of 4 faces, with
noble statues at each square, especialy the Diana of porphyrie above
the grotto. We were here shew'd a prodigious greate load-stone.
The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves, aviaries,
vivaries, fountaines, especialy one of five jettos, the middle basin being
one of the longest stones I ever saw. Here is every thing to make
such a paradise delightful!. In the garden I saw a rose grafted on an
orange-tree. There was much topiary worke, and columns in archi
tecture about the hedges. The Duke has added an ample laboratorye,
over against which stands a Fort on a hill where they told us his
VOL. I. M

82 [FLORENCE. 1644.
treasure is kept. In this Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, living
with his Swiss guards after the frugal Italian way, and even selling
what he can spare of his wines, at the cellar under his very house,
wicker bottles dangling over even the chiefs entrance into the Palace,
serving for a vintner's bush.
In the Church of St0 Spirito the altar and reliquary are most rich.
full of precious stones ; there are 4 pillars of a kind of serpentine, and
some of blue. Hence we went to another Palace of the Duke's, called
Palazzo Vecchio, before which is a statue of David by Michael
Angelo, and one of Hercules killing Cacus, the work of Baccio Ban-
dinelli. The quadrangle about this is of the Corinthian order, and in
the hall are many rare marbles, as those of Leo the Tenth and Cle
ment VII. both Popes of the Medicean family ; also the acts of Cosmo
in rare painting. In the Chapell is kept (as they would make one
believe) the original Gospel of St. John, written with his owne hand ;
and the famous Florentine Pandects, and divers precious stones. Neere
it is another pendant Towre like that at Pisa, always threatning mine.
Under the Court of Justice is a stately Arcade for men to walke in,
and over that the shops of divers rare artists who continualy worke
for the great Duke. Above this is that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or
Repository, wherein are hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of
marble and mettal, vases of porphyrie, &c. ; but amongst the statues
none so famous as the Scipio, Boare, the Idol of Apollo brought from
the Delphic Temple, and two triumphant columnes. Over these hang
the pictures of the most famous persons and illustrious men in arts or
armes, to the number of 300, taken out of the. Museum of Paulus
Jovius. They then led us into a large square roome in the middle of
which stood a Cabinet of an octangular forme, .so adorn'd and fur
nish'd with christals, achat, sculptures, &c. as exceeds, any description.
This cabinet is called the Tribuna, and in it is a pearl as big as a
hazale nut *. The cabinet is of ebonie, lazuli, and jasper ; over the
* Sir Gore Ouseley brought from Persia a picture of the Khan, now (1816) in his house in Bru-
ton-street, on whose dress are represented pearls of such a size as to make the one here spoken of
very insignificant.

FLORENCE. 1644.] 83
door is a round of M. Angelo ; in the Cabinet, Leo the Tenth, with
other paintings of Raphael, del Sarto, Perugino, and Coreggio, viz.
a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy, 2 Apostles, 2 Heads of Durer, rarely
carved. Over this cabinet is a Globe of ivory, excellently carved ; the
Labours of Hercules in massy silver, and many incomparable pictures
in small. There is another, which had about it 8 oriental columns of
alabaster on each whereof was placed a head of a Caesar, cover'd with
a canopy so richly set with precious stones that they resembled a firma
ment of starrs. Within it was our Saviour's Passion and 12 Apostles
in amber. This cabinet was valued at two hundred thousand crownes.
In another, with Calcidon pillars, was a series of golden medaills.
Here is also another rich ebony Cabinet cupola'd with a tortoise-shell
and containing a collection of gold medails esteem'd worth 50,000
crownes; a wreathed pillar of oriental alabaster, divers paintings of
Da Vinci, Pontorno, del Sarto, an Ecce Homo of Titian, a Boy of
Bronzini, &c. They shew'd us a branch of corall fixed on the rockv
which they affirme dos still grow. In another roome is kept the Ta
bernacle appointed for the Chapel of St. Lawrence, about which are
placed small statues of Saints, of precious materials; a piece of such
art and cost, that, having been these 40 years in perfecting, it is one
of the . most curious things' in the world. Here were divers tables of
Pietra Comessa, which is a marble ground inlay'd with severall sorts
of marbles and stortes of various colours, representing flowers, trees,
beasts, birds, and landskips. In one is represented the town of
Ligorne by the same hand who inlay'd the altar of St. Lawrence,
Domenico Benotti. I purchased of him 19 pieces of the same worke
for a cabinet. In a presse neere this they shew'd an yron naile, one
halfe whereof being converted into gold by one Thornheuser, a
German chymist, is look'd on as a greate rarity, but it plainly ap
peared to have been soldered together. There is a curious watch, a
monstrous turquoise as big as an egg, on which is carved an emperor's
head. In the Armory are kept many antiq habits, as those of Chinese kings ;
the sword of Charlemain ; Hannibal's head-piece ; a loadstone of a
yard long, which bears up 86 lbs. weight, in a chaine of 17 links,

84 [FLORENCE. 1644.
such as the slaves are tied to. In another roome are such rare tourne-
ries in ivory as are not to be described for their curiosity* There is
a faire pillar of oriental alabaster ; 12 vast and compleate services
of silver plate, and one of gold, all of excellent workmanship ; a rich
embrodred saddle of pearls sent by the Emperor to this Duke; and
here is that embrodred chaire set with precious stones in which he
sits, when, on St. John's Day, he receives the tribute of the Citties.
25 Octr. We went to the Portico where the famous statues of Judith
and Holofemes stand, also the Medusa, all of copper ; but what is
most admirable is the Rape of a Sabine with another man under foot,
the confusion and turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of
one entire marble, the worke of John di Bologna, and is most stupen-
duous ; this stands directly against the greate Piazza, where, to adorne
one fountaine, are erected four marble statues and eight of brasse, re
presenting Neptune and his family of sea-gods, of a Colossean- magni
tude, with four sea«-horses in Parian marble of Lamedrati ; this is in
the midst of a very great basin, a work, I think, hardly to be parallel'd.
Here is also the famous statue of David by M. Angelo ; Hercules and
Cacus by Baccio Bandinelli ; the Perseus in copper by Benevento,
and the Judith of Donatelli, wcb stand publickly before the old palace
with the Centaur of Bologna, huge Colossean figures. Neere this. stands
Cosmo di Medici on horseback, in brasse on a pedistal of marble, and
four copper bass relievos by John di Bologna, with divers inscriptions;
the Ferdinand the First on horseback is of Pietro Tacca. The brazen
Boare which serves for another publiq fountaine is admirable.
After dinner we went to the church of Annunciata,. where the Duke
and his Court were at their devotions, being a place of extraordinary
repute for sanctity ; for here is a shrine that dos greate miracles,
[proved] by innumerable votive tablets, &c. covering almost the walles
of the whole church. This is the image of Gabriel who saluted the
Bl. Virgin, and which the artist finish'd so well that he was in despaire
of performing the Virgin's face, whereupon it was miraculously don
for him whilst he slept; but others say it was painted by St. Luke
himselfe. Whoever it was, infinite is the devotion of both sexes to it.
The altar is set off with four columns of oriental alabaster, and lighted

SIENNA. 1644-] 85
by thirty greate silver lamps. There are innumerable other pictures by
rare masters. Our Saviour's passion in brasse tables inserted in marble
is the worke of John di Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli.
To this church joynes a Convent whose cloister is painted in fresca
very rarely. There is also neere it an Hospital for 1000 persons, with
nurse children, and several other charitable accom'odations.
At the Duke's Cavalerizzo, the Prince has a stable of the finest
horses of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gennets, English, &c.
which are continualy exercis'd in the manege.
Nere this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, as wolves,
catts, beares, tygers", and lions. They are loose in a deep wall'd court,
and therefore to be seene with more pleasure than at the Tower of
London, in their grates. One of the lions leaped to a surprising height
to catch a joynt of mutton which I caused to be hung downe.
* There are many playne brick towers erected for defence when this
[Sienna.] was a free state. The highest is called the Mangio, stand
ing at the foote of the Piazza, which we went first to see after our
arival. At the entrance of this tower is a Chapel, open towards the
Piazza, of marble well adorn'd with sculpture.
On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice, well built a
la moderna of brick ; indeed the bricks of Sienna are so well made
that they look almost as well as porphyrie itselfe, having a kind of na
tural polish.
In the Senate House is a very faire hall where they sometimes en
tertain the people with publiq shews and operas as they call them.
Towards the left are the statues of Romulus and Remus with the '
Wolf, all of brasse, plac'd on a columne of ophite stone which they
report was brought from the renowned Ephesian Temple. These en-
signes being the armes of the towne, are set up in divers of the streetes
and publiq waves both within and far without the cittv.
The Piazza compasses the faciata of the Court and Chapel, and, being
made with descending steps, much resembles the figure of an escalop
shell. The white ranges of pavement intermix'd with the excellent
bricks above mentioned, with which the town is generally well paved,
* There seems to be an omission in the MS. as to their leaving Florence and going to Sienna.

86 [SIENNA. 1644.
render it very clean. About this market-place (for so it is) are many
faire palaces, though not built with excesse of elegance. There stands
an Arch the worke of Baltazar di Sienna, built with wonderfull inge
nuity so that it is not easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has
some imperceptible contiguations wcb do not betray themselves easily
to the eye. On the edge of the Piazza is a goodly fountaine beautified
with statues, the water issuing out of the wolves mouths, being the
worke of Jacobo Quercei, a famous artist. There are divers other pub
liq fountaines in the Citty, of good designe.
The Sapienza is the University, or rather Colledg, where the High
Germans enjoy many particular priviledges when they addict themselves
to the Civil Law. This place has produced many excellent scholars,
besides those three Popes, Alexander, Pius the IInd, and the IIId of
that name the learned iEneas Sylvius, and both were of the antient
house of the Piccolomini.
The chiefe streete is called Strada Romana, in which Pius the IId
has built a most stately Palace of square stone with an incomparable
portico joyning neere to it. The towne is com'anded by a Castle which
hath four bastions and a garison of souldiers. Neere it is a List to ride
horses in, much frequented by the gallants in summer.
Not far from hence is the Church and Convent of the Dominicans,
where in the Chapel of St. Catherine of Sienna they shew her head,
the rest of her body being translated to Rome. The Domo or Cathedral,
both without and within, is of large square stones of black and white
marble polish'd, of inexpressible beauty, as is the front adorn'd with
sculpture and rare statues. In the middle is a stately cupola and
two columns of sundry streaked colour'd marble. About the body of
the Church on a cornice within, are inserted the heads of all the Popes.
The pulpit is beautified with marble figures, a piece of exquisite worke ;
but what exceeds all description is the pavement, where (besides the
various emblemes and other figures in the nave) the quire is wrought
with the History of the Bible, so artificialy express'd in the natural co
lours of the marbles that few pictures exceede it. Here stands a Christo
rarely cut in marble, and on the large high Altar is a brasen vessell of
admirable invention and art. The organs are exceeding sweete and well 1

SIENNA.

1644.] 87

tun'd. On the left side of the altar is the Library, where are painted
the acts of JEneas Sylvius and others by Raphael. They shew'd us an
arme of St. John the Baptist, wherewith, they say, he baptized our
Saviour in1 Jordan; it was given by the King of Peloponesus to one of
the Popes, as an inscription testifies. They have also St. Peter's Sword
with which he smote off the ear of Malchus.
Just against the Cathedral we went into the Hospital, where they
entertain and refresh for three or four days, gratis, such pilgrimes as go
to Rome. In the Chapel belonging to it lies the body of St. Susorius
their founder, as yet uncorrupted though dead many hundreds of yeares.
They shew one of the nailes which pierced our Saviour, and St. Chry-
sostom's Comment on the Gospel written by his owne. hand. Below
the hill stands the pool called Fonte Brande, where fish are fed for
pleasure more than foode.
St. Francis's Church is a large pile, neere which, yet a little without
the Citty, growes a tree which they report in their legend grew from
the Saint's staff, which on going to sleepe he fix'd in the ground, and
at his waking found it had grown a large tree. They affirme that the
wood of it in decoction cures sundry diseases.
2 Nov. We went from Sienna, desirous of being present at the Ca
valcade of the new Pope Innocent X. * who had not yet made the grand
procession to St. John de Lateran. We set out by Porto Romano, the
country all about the towne being rare for hunting and game. Wild
boare and venison are frequently sold in the shops in many of the townes
about it. We pass'd neere Mont Oliveto, where the Monastrie of that
Order is pleasantly situated and worth seeing. Passing over a bridg,
which, by the inscription, appears to have been built by Prince Matthias,
we went through Buon-Conventa, famous for the death of the Emperor \
Hen. VII. who was here poison'd in the holy Eucharist. Thence we
came to Tormiero, where we din'd. This village is in a sweete vally
in view of Monte Alcini, famous for the rare Muscatello ¦{*. After
three miles more we go by St. Querico, and lay at a privat Osteria
neere it, where, after we were provided of lodging, came in Cardinal
* John Baptista PamphiJi, chosen Pope in October 1644, died in 1655. f A wine.

88 [ITALY. 1644.
4
Doughi, a Genoese by birth, now come from Rome ; he was so civil as
to entertaine us with greate respect, hearing we were English, for
that, he told us, he had been once in our country. Amongst other dis
course he related Viow a dove was seen to sit on the chayre in the Con
clave at the election of Pope Innocent, which he magnified as a greate
good omen, with other particulars which we enquir'd of him, till our
suppers parted us. He came in great state with his owne bedstead
and all the furniture, yet would by no meanes suffer us to resigne the
room we had taken up in the lodging before his arival. Next morn
ing we rod by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly called, Monte Mantu-
miato, which is of an excessive height, ever and anon peeping above
any clowds with its snowy head, till we had climbed to the inn at Radi-
cofany built by Ferdd the greate Duke for the necessary refreshment
of travellers in so inhospitable a place. As we ascended we entered a
very thick, solid, and dark body of cloudes, wch look'd like rocks at a
little distance, which lasted neare a mile in going up ; they were dry
misty vapours, hanging undissolved for a vast thicknesse, and obscuring
both the sun and earth, so that we seemed to be in the sea rather than
in the cloudes, till, having pierced through it we came into a most
serene heaven, as if we had been above all human conversation, the
mountaine appearing more like a greate island than joyn'd to any other
hills, for we could perceive nothing but a sea of thick cloudes rowling
under our feete like huge waves, every now and then suffering the top
of some other mountaine to peepe through, which we could discover
many miles off; and betweene some breaches of the cloudes we could
see landskips and villages of the subjacent country. This was one of
the most pleasant, newe, and altogether surprizing objects that I had
ever beheld.
On the sum'it of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a very strong
Fort, garrison'd, and somewhat beneath it is a small Towne ;. the pro
visions are drawne up with ropes and engines, the precipice being
otherwise inaccessable. At one end of the towne lie heapes of rocks
so strangely broaken off from the ragged mountaine as would affright
one with their horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the
inn gushed out a plentifull and most useful fountaine, which falls into

ITALY. 1644.] 89
a great trough of stone, bearing the Duke of Tuscany's armes. Here
we din'd, and I with my black lead pen tooke the prospect*. It is
one of the utmost confines of the Etrurian State towards St. Peter's
Patrimony since the gift of Matilda to Gregory 7, as they say.
Here we passe a stone bridg built by Pope Gregory XIV. and thence
immediately to Aquapendente j-, a town situated on a very ragged
rock, down which precipitates an intire river with a horrid roaring
noise. From this river it has its name. We lay at the Post-house,
on which is this inscription :
" L'Insegna della Posta, e" posta a posta,
In questa posta, fill che habbia a sua posta
Ogn' un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta."
Before it was darke we went to see the Monastery of the Franciscans,
famous for 6 learned Popes and sundry other great scholars, especialy
the renowned physician and anatomist Fabricius de Aquapendente,
who was bred and borne here.
4 Nov. After a little riding we descend towards the Lake of Bol-
sena,- which being above 20 miles in circuit yields from hence a most
incomparable prospect. Neere the middle of it are 2 small islands, in
one of which is a Convent of melancholy Capucines, where those of the
Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls it Tarquiniensis Lacus, and
talks of divers floting islands about it, but they did not appear to us.
The Lake is environ'd with mountaines, at one of whose sides we pass'd
towards the towne Bolsena, anciently Vulsinium, famous in those
times, as is testified by divers rare sculptures in the court of St. Chris
tiana's Church, the urne, altar, and jasper columns.
After 7 miles riding, passing thro' a wood heretofore sacred to Juno,
we came to Monte Fiascone, the head of the Falisci a famous people
in old time, heretofore Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine,
as now for the story of the Dutch Bishop, who lyes buried in Faviano's
Church with this epitaph :
" Propter Est, Est, dqminus meus mortuus est."
* An etching of it, with others, is in the Library at Wotton.
T 12 miles from the Duke's Inn, according to Lassells.
VOL. I. N

90 [ITALY. 1644.
Because having ordered his servant to ride before, enquire where the
best wine was, and there write Est, the man found some so good that
he wrote Est, Est, and the Bishop drinking too much of it died.
From hence we travell a plain and pleasant champain to Viterbo,
which presents itselfe wifh much state afarr off, in reguard of her many
lofty pinnacles and toweres ; neither dos it deceive our expectation, for
it is exceedingly beautified with publiq fountaines, especialy that at the
entrance which is all of brasse and adorn'd with many rare figures, and
salutes the passenger with a most agreeable object and refreshing
waters. There are many Popes buried in this Citty, and in the Palace
is this odd inscription :
" Osiridis victoriam in Gigantes litteris historiographicis in hoc antiquissimo
marmore inscriptarn, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi Laurentij Templo transla-
tam, ad conversam: vetustiss: patriae monumenta atq' decora hie locandum
statuit S. P. Q. V.
Under it :
Sum Osiris Rex Jupi- Sum Osiris Rex qui Sum Osiris Rex qui
ter universo in terrarum ab Italia in Gigantes ex- terrarum pacato Italiam
orbe. ercit u veni, vidi, et vici. decern a'nos quorum in
ventor fui."
Neere the towne is a sulphureous fountaine which continualy boils.
After dinner we tooke horse by the new way of Capranica, and so
passing near Mount Ciminus and the Lake, we began to enter the
plains of Rome, at which sight my thoughts were strangely elevated,
but soon allay'd by so violent a shower which fell just as we were con
templating that proud mistress of the world, and descending by the
Vatican (for at that gate we entered), that before we got into the Citty
I was wet to the skin.
I came to Rome on the 4 Nov. 1644, about 5 at night, and being
perplexed for a convenient lodging wandered up and down on horseback,
till at last one conducted us to Monsr Petit' s, a Frenchman, near 'the
Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and having bargained with my host
for 20 crownes a moneth I caused a good fire to be made in my chamber
and went to bed, being so very wet. The next morning (for I was
resolved to spend no time idly here) I got acquainted with several per
sons who had long lived in Rome. I was especialy recommended to

ROME. 1644.] 91
Father John, a Benedictine monke and Superior of his Order for the
English College of Douay, a person of singular learning, religion, and
humanity ; also to Mr Patrick Cary, an Abbot, brother to our learned
Lord Falkland, a witty young priest who afterwards came over to our
Church ; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs*, physicians who had dependance
on Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an excellent poet; Father
Cortnee, the Chiefe of the Jesuites in the English CoUedge; my Lord
of Somerset brother to the Marquiss of Worcester, and some others,
from whom I received instructions how to behave in towne, with direc
tions to masters and bookes to take in search of the antiquities, churches,
collections, &c. Accordingly the next day, Novr 6th, I began to be
very pragmatical f.
In the first place our Sights-man J (for so they name certain per
sons bere who get their living by leading strangers about to see the
City) went to the Palace Farnezi, a magnificent square structure, built
by Michael Angelo of the 3 orders of columns after the ancient man
ner, and when Architecture was but newly recovered from the Gotic
barbarity. The court is square and tarrass'd, having two payre of
staires, which leade to the upper roomes, and conducted us to that
famous gallery painted by Agdstino Caracci, than which nothing is
more rare of that art; so deepe and well-studied are all the figures, that
it would require more judgement than I confesse I had, to determine
whether they were flat or emboss'd. Thence we. passed into another
painted in chiaro oscuro, representing the fabulous history of Hercules.
We went out on a terrace, where was a pretty garden on the leads, for
it is built in a place that has no extent of ground backwards. The

* James Alban Gibbs, a Scotchman bred at Oxford, who resided many years at Rome, where he
died in 1677, and was buried in the Pantheon therewith an epitaph to his memory under a
marble bust of him. He was an extraordinary character. In Wood's Athense is a long account of
him, and also some curious particulars in Warton's Life of Dr. Bathurst. He was a great writer of
Latin Poetry, a small collection of which he published at Rome, to which is prefixed his portrait
neatly engraved.
f Mr. Evelyn must, intend this in a good sense, very active and full of business, viz. what he
came upon, to view the antiquities and beauties of .Rome, both ancient and modern.
\ The present name for these gentlemen is with the Italians a Cicerone, but they affect univer
sally the title of Antiquaries.

92 [ROME. 1644.
greate Hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, furnish'd with
statues, one of which being modern is a figure of one of the Farnese in
a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy of admiration. Here
we were shewed the Museum of Fulvius Ursinos repleate with innu
merable collections ; but the Major Domo being absent, we could not
at this time see all we had a desire to see. Descending into the court
we with astonishment contemplated the 2 statues of Hercules and Flora,
so much celebrated by Pliny. There is a modern statue of Hercules
and two Gladiators not to be despis'd. In a second court was a tem
porary shelter of boards over the most stupendous and never to be suf
ficiently admir'd Torso of Amphion and Dirces, represented in 5 figures
exceeding the life in magnitude, of the purest white marble, the con
tending work of those famous statuaries, Apollonius and Taurisco in
the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire stone, and remaining
unblemished, to be valued beyond all the marbles of the world for its
antiquity and workmanship. There are divers other heads and busts.
At the entrance of this stately Palace stand 2 rare and vast fountaines
of garnito stone, brought into this Piazza out of Titus's Bathes. Here
in sum'er the gentlemen of Rome take the fresco in their coaches and
on foote. At the sides of this court we vissited the Palace of Sign.
Pichini, who has a good collection of antiquities, especialy the Adonis
of Parian marble, which my Lord Arundel would once have purchas'd
if a greate price would have been taken for it.
7 Nov. We went into the Campo Vaccino by the ruines of the
Temple of Peace built by Titus Vespasianus, thought to be the
largest, as well as the most richly furnish'd, of all the Roman dedi
cated places ; it is nowlan heape rather than a temple, yet the roofe
and volto continue firme, shewing it to have been formerly of incom
parable workmanship. This goodly structure was, none knows how,
consum'd by fire the very night, by all computation, that our Saviour
was born.
Hence we passed by the place into wch Curtius precipitated him
self for the love of his country, now without any sign of a lake or
vorago. Neere this stand some columns of white marble, of exquisite
worke, supposed to be part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans built by

ROME. 1644-] 93
Augustus ; the worke of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave
is excellent, full of sacrificing utensils. There are 3 other of Jupiter
Stator. Opposite to these are the Oratories or Churches of St. Cosmo
and Damiano, heretofore the Temples of Romulus and Remus, a pretty
odd fabriq, with a Tribunal, or Tholus- within, wrought all of Mosaic.
The gates before it are brasse, and the whole much obliged to Pope
Urban the 8th. Here lie the bodies of those 2 Martyrs; and in a Chapel
on the right hand is a rare painting of Cavaliero Baylione. We next
entered St. Laurenzo in Miranda. The portico is supported by a range
of most stately columns; the inscription cut in the architrave shews it to
have been the Temple of Faustina. It is now made a faire Church, and
has an Hospital which joines it. On the same side is St. Adriano,
heretofore dedicated to Saturne. Before this was once placed a Miliary
Column, supposed to be set in the center of the Citty, from whence they
us'd to compute the distance of all the citties and places of note under
the dominion of those universal Monarchs. To this Church are likewise
brazen gates and a noble front. Just opposite they shew'd us heapes
and ruines of Cicero's Palace. Hence we went towards Mons Capitoli-
nus, at the foote of which stands the Arch of Septimius Severus, full and
entire^ save where the pedestal and some of the lower members are
choaked up with ruines and earth. This Arch is exceedingly inrich'd
with sculpture and trophies, with a large inscription. In the terrestrial
and naval battailes here graven is seen the Roman Aries [the battering-
ram]. This was the first triumphal arch set up in Rome. The Capi
tol, to which we climbed by very broad steps, is built about a square
court, at the right hand of which going up from Campo Vaccino
gushes a plentifull streame from the statue of Tybur in porphyry, very
antiq, and another representing Rome ; but above all is the admirable
figure of Marforius casting water into a most ample Concha. The
front of this court is crowned with an excellent fabriq containing the
Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal Notary sits, and others. In
one of the Halls they shew the statues of Gregory XIII. and Paule III.
with several others. To this joynes a handsome Tower, the whole
faciata, adorn'd with noble statues both on the outside and on the bat
tlements, ascended by a double payre of staires, and a stately Posario.

94 [rome. 1644.
In the center of the court stands that incomparable Horse bearing
the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the life, of Corinthian'
mettal, placed on a pedestal of. marble, esteemed one of the noblest
pieces of worke now extant, antique and very rare. There is also
a vast Head of a Colossean magnitude, of white marble, fixed in
the wall. At the descending stayres are sett two Horses of white
marble governed by 2 naked Slaves, taken to be meant for Castor and
Pollux, brought from. Pom pey's Theatre. On the balustrade the Tro
phies of Marius against the Cimbrians, very, ancient and instructive.
At the foote of the stepps towards the left hand is that Colonna Mi
liaria with the globe of brasse on it, mention'd to have been formerly
sett in Campo Vaccino. On the same hand is the Palace of the Seg-
niori Conservatory or 3 Consuls, now the Civil Governors of the Citty,
containing the Fraternities or Halls (or Guilds, as we call them) of
sundry Companys, and other offices of state. Under the Portico within,
are the statues of Augustus Caesar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned
Colonna Rostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi relievi. In a
smaller court are the statue of Constantine ou a fountaine, a Minerva's
head of brasse, and that of Com'odus to which belongs an hand .the
thumb of which is at least au ell long, but the rest of the Colosse is
lost. In the corner of this Court stand an horse and lyon fighting, as
big as life, in white marble, exceedingly valu'd ; likewise the Rape of
the Sabines ; 2 cumbent figures of Alexander and Mammea ; 2 mon
strous feete of a ColOsse of Apollo ; the sepulchre of Agrippina ; and
the Standard, or antiq measure of the Roman foote. Ascending by the
stepps of the other corner, are inserted fower basse relievo's, viz. the
triumph and sacrifice of -Marcus Aurelius, which last, for the antiquity
and rareness of the worke, I caused my painter Carlo Neapolitano to
copy. There are also 2 statues of the Muses, and one of Adrian the
Emperor; above stands the figure of Marius, and by the wall Mar-
sias bound to a tree ; all of them excellent and antique. Above, in the
Lobby, are inserted into the walls those ancient laws on brasse call'd
the 12 Tables ; a faire Madona of Pietro Perugino, painted on the
wall ; neere whieh are the Archives full of ancient records. In the

ROME. 1644.] 95
great Hall are divers excellent paintings of Cavaliero Giuseppe d'Ar-
pino, a statue in brasse of Sixtus V. and of Leo X. of marble. In an
other Hall are many modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors,
set about with fine antique heads ; others are painted by excellent mas
ters, representing the actions of M. Scaevola, Horatius Codes, &c. —
The room where the Conservatori now feast on solemn days is tapisstred
with crimson damasq embrodred with gold, haveing a state or baldu-
quino of crimson velvet very rich, the freeze above rarely painted.
Here are in brasse, Romulus and Remus sucking the wolfe, with the
shepherd Faustulus by them ; also the Boy plucking the thorne out of
his foote (in brasse) so much admir'd by artists. There are also holy
statues and heads of Saints. In a Gallery neere adjoyning are the names
of the ancient Consuls, Praetors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by
the learned ; also the figure of an old woman ; 2 others representing
Poverty ; and more in fragments. In another large roome furnish'd
with velvet are the statue of Adonis very rare, and divers antiq heads.
In the next chamber is an old statue of Cicero, one of another Consul,
an Hercules in brasse, 2 women's heads of incomparable worke, six
other statues; and over the chimny a verv rare basso relievo and other
figures. In a little Lobby before the Chapell is the statue of Hannibal,
a Bacchus very antiq, bustos of Pan and Mercury, with other old
heads. All these noble statues, &C. belong to the Citty, and cannot be
dispos'd of to any privat. person or remov'd hence, but are preserv'd
for the honor of the place, though greate sumes have been offer'd for
them by divers greate Princes lovers of art and antiquity. We now
left the Capitol, certainely^one of the most renown'd places in the
world, even as now built by the designe of the famous NM. Angelo.
Returning home by Ara Coeli, we mounted to it by more than, 100
marble stepps, not in devotion as- 1 observed some to do on their bare
knees, but to see those two famous statues of Constantine in white
marble, placed there out of his Bathes. In this Church is a Madona,
reported to be painted by St. Luke, and a column, on which we saw the
print of a foote which they affirme to have been that of the Angel, seene
on the Castle of St. Angelo. Here the feast of our blessed Saviour's

QQ [ROME. 1644.
nativity being yearely celebrated with divers pageants, they began to
make the preparation. Having viewed the Palace and Fountaine at
the other side of the stayres, we return'd weary to our lodgings.
On the 7th we went againe towards the Capitol, towards the Tar-
peian rock, whence it has a goodly prospect of the Tybur. Thence
descending by the Tullianum, where they told us St. Peter was impri
soned, they shew'd us a Chapell in which a rocky side of it beares the
impression of his face. In the nave of the Church gushes a fountaine
which they say was caused by the Apostle's prayers, when having con
verted some of his fellow-captives he wanted- water to baptize them.
We then walked about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine, and thence
to the Circus Maximus, capable of holding 40,000 spectators, now a
heap of ruines converted into gardens. Then by the Forum Boarium,
where they have a tradition that Hercules slew Cacus, some ruines of
his Temple remaining. The Temple of Janus quadrifrontis, having 4
arches importing the 4 Seasons, and on each side niches for the Mo
netises, is still a substantial and pretty entire antiquity. Neere this is
the Arcus Argentariorum. Bending now towards the Tyber we went
into the Theater of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000 persons, built
by Augustus and dedicated to his nephew ; the architecture from what
remaines appears to be inferior to none. It is now wholly converted
into the house of the Savelli, one of the old Roman families. The
people were now generally busye in erecting temporary triumphs and
arches with statues and flattering inscriptions against his Holinesse's
grand procession to St. John de Lateran, amongst which the Jewes
also began one in testimony of gratitude for their protection under the
Papal State. The Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's
Architect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from the size to be. as princely an
object as any moderne building in Europ. It has a double Portico, at
the end of which we ascended by 2 paire of oval stayres all of stone and
voide in the well. One of these led us into a stately Hall, the volto
whereof was newly painted afresca by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini
di Cortona. To this is annex'd a Gallery compleately furnish'd with
whatever Art can call rare and singular, and a Library full of
worthy Collections, medails, marbles, and manuscripts, but above all

ROME. 1644.] 97
an Egyptian Osyris, remarkable for the material being unknown and
for its antiquity. In one of the roomes neere this hangs the Sposaliccio
of St. Sebastian, the original of Annibal Caracci, of which I procured a
copy little inferior to the prototype ; a table in my judgment superior
to any thing I had seen in Rome. In the Court is a vast broaken
Gulio Obelisq having divers hieroglyphics cut on it.
8 Nov. We visited the Jesuites Church, the front whereof is
esteem'd a noble piece of architecture, the designe of Jacomo della
Porta and the famous Vignola. In this Church lies the body of their
renown'd Ignatius Loyola, an arme of Xaverius, their other Apostle,
and at the right end of their high altar their Champion Card: Bellar-
mine. Father Kircherus (professor of Mathematics and of the Oriental
tongues) shew'd us many singular courtesies, leading us into their
Refectory, Dispensatory, Laboratory, Gardens, and finally (through an
Hall hung round with pictures of such of their order as had been
executed for their pragmatical and buisy adventures) into his own
study, where, with Dutch patience, he shew'd us his perpetual motions,
catoptrics, magnetical experiments, models, and a thousand other
crotchets and devices, most of them since published by himselfe or
his industrious scholar Schotti.
Returning home we view'd the Palazzo de Medici, which was a
house of the Duke of Florence, neere our lodging, on the brow of
Mons Pincius, having a fine prospect towards the Campo Marzo. It
is a magnificent, strong building, having a substruction very remark
able, and a portico supported with columns towards the gardens, with
two huge lions of marble at the end of the balustrade. The whole out
side of the faciata is incrusted with antiq and rare basse-relieves and
statues. Descending into the garden is a noble fountaine govern'd by
a Mercury of brasse. At a little distance on the left is a lodge full of
fine statues, amongst which the Sabines is antiq and singularly rare.
In the arcado neere this stand 24 statues of great price, and hard by is
a mount planted with cypresses representing a fortresse, with a goodly
fountaine in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with white
marble, covered over with the natural shrubbs, ivy, and other per
ennial greenes, divers statues and heads being placed as in niches.
voL. 1. o

98 [ROME. 1644.
At a little distance are those fam'd statues of Niobe and her family, in
alt 15, as large as the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny,
esteemed among the best pieces of worke in the world for the passions
they expresse, and all other perfections of that stupendous art. There
is in this garden a faire obelisq full of hieroglyphics. In going out,
the fountaine before the front casts water neere 50 foote in height
when it is received in a most ample marble basin. Here they usually
rode the greate-horse every morning, which gave me much diversion
from the tarrace of my owne chamber, where I could see all their
motions. This evening I was invited to heare rare musiq at the Chiesa
Nova; the black marble pillars within led us to that most precious
Oratory of Philippus Nerius their founder, they being of the oratory
of secular priests, under no vow. There are in it divers good pictures,
as the Assumption of Girolamo Mutiano ; the Crucifix ; the Visitation
of Elizabeth; the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin; Christo
Sepolto of Guido Rheno, Caravagio, Arpino, and others. This faire
Church consists of 14 altars and as many chapells. In it is buried
(besides their Saint) Caesar Baronius the greate annalist. Through
this we went into the Sacristia, where, the tapers being lighted, one of
the Order preach'd ; after him stepp'd up a child of 8 or 9 years old
who pronounced an oration with so much grace, that 1 never was better
pleas'd than to heare Italian so well and so intelligently spoken. This
course it seemes they frequently use, to bring their scholars to a
habit of speaking distinctly, and forming their action and assurance,
which none so much want as ours in England. This being finish'd
began their Motettos, which, in a lofty cupola richly painted, were
sung by eunuchs and other rare voices, accompanied with theorbos,
harpsicors, and viols, so that we were even ravish'd with the enter
tainment of the evening. This roome is painted by Cortona, and has
in it two figures in the niches, and the Church stands in one of the
most stately streetes of Rome.
10th Novr. We went to see Prince Ludovisio's villa where was
formerly the Viridarium of the poet Sallust. . The house is very mag
nificent, and the extent of the ground is exceeding large considering
that it is in a Citty ; in every quarter of the garden are antiq statues,

ROME. 1644-] 99
and walkes planted with cypresse. To this garden belongs a house of
retirement built in the figure of a crosse after a particular ordonance,
especially the stayrecase. The whiteness and smoothness of the par
geting was a thing I much observ'd, being almost as even and polish'd
as if it had been marble. Above is a faire prospect of the Citty. In
one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of Bassano, the one a
Vulcan, the other a Nativity ; there is a German clock full of rare and
extraordinary motions, and in a little room below are many precious
marbles, columns, urnes, vasas, and noble statues of porphyry, Oriental
alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabriq is an ample area,
environ'd with 16 vast jarrs of red earth wherein the Romans us'd
to preserve their oyle, or wine rather, which they buried, and such
as are properly call'd Testae. I must never forget the famous statue
of the Gladiator spoken of by Pliny? so much follow'd by all the
rare artists as the many copies testifie, dispersed through almost all
Europ both in stone and metal. There is also an Hercules, a head
of _ porphyrie, and one of Marcus Aurelius. In the Villa-house is a
man's body, flesh and all, petrified and even converted to marble, as
is was found in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to one of the
Popes ; it lay in a chest or cofin liu'd with black velvet, and one of
the armes being broken, you may see the perfect Jaone from the flesh
which remains intire. The Rape of Proserpine in marble is of the
purest white, the worke of Bernini. In the cabinet neere it are innu
merable small brasse figures and other curiosities. But what some
looke upon as exceeding all the rest, is a very rich bedstead (which
sort of grosse furniture the Italians much glory in, as formerly did our
grandfathers in England in their inlaid wooden ones) inlaid with all
sorts of precious stones and antiq heads, onyxs, achates* and corne
lians, esteem'd to be worth 80 or 90,000 crownes. Here are also
divers cabinets and tables of the Florence work, besides pictures in the
gallery, especialy the Apollo. There is a chayre to sleepe in with the
leggs stretcht out, with books, and pieces of wood to draw out longer
or shorter.
From this we went to see Sign. Angeloni's study, who very courte
ously shew'd us such a collection of rare medaills as is hardly to be

\QQ [ROME. 1644.
parallel'd ; divers good pictures, and many outlandish and Indian
curiosities and things of nature.
Hence we went to Monte Cavallo, heretofore call'd Mons Quiri-
nalis, where we saw those two rare horses, the worke of the rivals
Phidias and Praxiteles, as they were sent as a present to Nero [by Tiri-
dates King] out of Arminia. They were placed on pedestals of white
marble by Sixtus V. by whom I suppose their injuries were repair'd.
They are governM by 4 naked slaves like those at the foote of the
Capitol. Here runs a most noble fountaine, faceing fower of the most
stately streetes for building and beauty to be seen in any Citty of
Europ. Opposite to these statues is the Pope's Sum'er Palace, built
by Gregory XIII. and in my opinion for the largeness and the archi
tecture one of the most conspicuous in Rome. It has a stately portico
which leads round the court under columns, in the center of which runs
a beautifull fountaine. The chapell is incrusted with such precious
materials, that nothing can be more rich or glorious, nor are the other
ornaments and moveables about it at all inferior. The hall is painted
by Lanfranci and others. The garden, which is call'd the Belvedere di
Monte Cavallo, in emulation to that of the Vatican, is most excellent
fjor ayre and prospect, its exquisite fountaines, close walkes, grotts,
piscinas or stews for fish, planted about with venerable cypresses, and
refresh'd with water-musiq, aviaries, and other rarities.
12th Nov. We saw Dioclesian's Bathes, whose ruines testifie the
vastnesse of the original foundation and magnificence; by what
M. Angelo tooke from the ornaments about it, 'tis sayd he restor'd
the then almost lost art of architecture. This monstrous pile was
built by the labour of the primitive Christians, then under one of the
ten great persecutions. The Church of St. Bernardo is made out of
one onely of these ruinous cupolas, and is in the form of an urne
with a cover.
Opposite to this is the Fontana delle Therme, otherwise call'd Fons
.Felix ; in it is a basso relievo of white marble representing Moses
striking the rock, which is adorn'd with camels, men, women, and
children drinking, as large as life ; a worke for the designe and vast
nesse truly magnificent. The water is convey'd no lesse than 22 miles

ROME. 1644.] 101
in an aquaeduct by Sixtus V. ex agro Columna by way of Praeneste,
as the inscription testifies. It gushes into three ample lavors rais'd
about with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black
stone very rare and antiq. Neere this are the Store-houses for the
Citty's corne, and over against it the Church of St. Susanna where
were the gardens of Sallust. The faciata of this church is noble, the
soffito within is guilded and full of pictures ; especialy famous is that
of Susanna, by Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar is
of exquisite worke, from whose marble stepps you descend under
ground to the repository of divers Saints. The picture over this altar
is the worke of Jacomo Siciliano. The foundation is for Bernadine
Nunns. Sta Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most ravishing front.
In this church was sung the Te Deum by Greg. XV. after the signal
victory of the Emp' at Prague ; the standards then taken still hang up,
and the impresse waving with this motto over the Pope's armes, Ex-
tirpentur. The high altar was much frequented for an image of the
Virgine. There are some rare statues : there is Paule ravish'd into
the third heaven, by Ger. Fiamengo, and some good pictures.
We went again to Dioclesian's Bathes, never satisfied with contem
plating that immense pile, in building which 150,000 Christians were*
destin'd to labour 14 yeares and were then all murther'd. Here is a
Monastery of Carthusians call'd Sta Maria degli Angeli, the architec
ture of M. Angelo, the cloister encompassing walls in an ample garden.
Mont Alto's Villa is enter'd by a stately gate of stone built on the
Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious parke full of fountaines,
especialy that which salutes us at the front ; stews for fish ; the
cypresse walkes are so beset with statues, inscriptions, relievos, and
other ancient marbles, that nothing can be more stately and solemn.
The citron-trees are uncommonly large. In the Palace joining to it
are innumerable collections of value.
In St. Agnes Church is a tribunal of antiq Mosaiq, and on the
altar a most rich Ciborio of brasse with a statue of St. Agnes in
Oriental alabaster. The Church of Sta Constanza has a noble cupola.
Here they shew'd us a stone ship borne on a column heretofore sacred

102 [ROME. 1644.
to Bacchus, as the relievo intimates by the drunken emblemes and
instruments wrought upon it. The altar is of rich porphyrie, as I
remember. Looking back we had the intire view of the Via Pia
downe to the two houses before the Monte Cavallo before mention'd,
one of the most glorious sights for state and magnificence that any
Citty can shew a traveller. We return'd by Porta Pia and the Via
Salaria, neere Campo. Scelerato, in whose gloomy caves the wanton
vestals were heretofore im'ured alive.
Thence to Via Felix a straite and noble streete but very precipitous,
till we came to the Fountaines of Lepidus, built at the abbutments of 4
stately wayes, making an exact Crosse of right angles; and at the
Fountaines are as many cumbent figures of marble under very large
niches of stone, the water pouring into huge basins. The Church of
St. Carlo is a singular fabriq for neatnesse, of an oval designe, built of
a new white stone ; the columns are worth notice. Under it is another
Church of a structure nothing lesse admirable.
Sta Maria Maggiore is on the Esquiline Mountaine, which gives it a
most conspicuous face to the streete at a greate distance. The design
is mix'd, partly antiq, partly moderne. Here they affirme that the Bl.
Virgin appearing, shew'd where it should be built 300 yeares since.
The first pavement is rare and antiq ; so is the portico built by P. P.
Eugenius II. The Ciborio is the worke of Paris Romano, and the
Tribunal of Mosaic. We were shew'd in the Church a Concha of por
phyrie wherein they say Patricius the founder lyes. This is one of
the most famous of the 7 Roman Churches, and is in my opinion at
least, after St. Peter's, the most magnificent. Above all, for incompa
rable glory and materials, are the two Chapels of Sextus V. and
Paulus V. That of Sextus was design'd by Dom. Fontana, in which
are two rare greate statues, and some good pieces of painting ; and here
they pretended to shew some of the Holy Innocents bodyes slaine by
Herod. That renown'd tabernacle of metall gilt, sustain'd by 4 angels
holding as many tapers, is placed on the altar. In this Chapel is the
statue of Sextus in copper, with basse relievo's of most of his famous
acts in Parian marble. But that of P. Paulus opposite to this, is beyond
all imagination glorious and beyond description. It is so incircl'd with

ROME. 1644-] 103
achates and other most precious materials as to dazzle and confound the
beholders. The basse relievo's are for the most part of pure snowy
marble, intermixed with figures of molten brasse double gilt on lapis
lazuli. The altar is a most stupendous piece ; but most incomparable
is the cupola, painted by Cavaliero Giuseppe Rheni and the present
Baglioni, full of exquisite sculptures. There is a most sumptuos Sa-
cristia ; and the piece over the altar was by the hand of St. Luke, if
you will believe it. Paule V. hath here likewise built two other altars;
under the one lye the bones of the Apostle St. Mathias. In another
Oratory is the statue of this Pope, and the head of the Congo Ambas
sador who was converted at Rome and dy'd here. In a third Chapel
design'd by M. Angelo lyes the body of Platina, and the Cardinal of
Toledo, Honorius III. Nicephorus IV. the ashes of St. Hierom, and
many others. In that of Sextus V. before mentioned was shew'd us
part of the crib in which Christ was sWaddl'd at Bethlerri ; there is also
the statue of Pius V. Going out at the further end is the resurrection
of Lazarus by a very rare hand. In the portico is this late inscription :
" Cardinali Antonio Barberino Archipresbytero, aream marmoream
quam Christianorum pietas exculpit, laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesia,
ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, Franciscus Gualdus Arm. Eques
S. Stephani, e suis redibus hue transtulit et ornavit 1632." Just before
this portico stands a very sublime and stately Corinthian columne of
white marble, translated hither for an ornament from the old Temple
of Peace built by Vespasian, having on the plinth of the capital the
image of our Lady gilt on mettal ; at the pedestal runs a fountaine. —
Going downe the hill we saw the Obelisq taken from the Mauso
leum of Augustus, and erected in this place by Domenico Fontana,
with this epigraphe : " Sixtus V. Pout. Max. obeliscum iEgypto ad-
vectum, Augusti in mausoleo dicatum, eversum deinde et in plures
eonfractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum jacehtem, in pristinam
faciem restitutum, Salutiferae Cruci felicius hie erigi jussit anno
M.D.L.XXXVIII. Pont. III."
At the foote of this hill is the Church of St. Pudentia, in which is a
well fiil'd with the blood and bones of several Martyrs, but grated over

104 [ITALY. 1644.
with yron ; it is visited by many Devota's. Neere this is the Church
of her sister S. Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a
little obscure plaee cancelled in with yron worke, is the Pillar or Stump
at which they relate our Bl. Saviour was scourged, being full of bloudy
spotts, at which the devout sex are always rubbing their chaplets, and
convey their kisses by a stick having a tassel on it. Here, besides a
noble statue of St. Peter is the tombe of the famous Cardinal Cajetan,
an excellent piece. Here they hold that St. Peter sayd his first masse
at Rome with the same altar and the stone he kneeled on, he having
been first lodged in this house, as they compute, about the 44th yeare
of the incarnation. They also shew many reliques, or rather raggs, of
his mantle. In the Church of St. Laurence in Panisperna is the Grid
iron on which that Martyr was broyl'd. St. Brigit is buried in this
Church under a stately monument. In the front of the pile is the suf
fering of St. Laurence painted a fresca on the wall. The fabriq is
nothing but Gotic. On the left is the Therma Novatii, and on the
right Agrippina's Lavacrum.
14 Nov. We pass'd againe thro' the stately Capitol and Campo
Vaccino towards the Amphitheatre of Vespasian, but were first stay'd
to looke at Titus's triumphal Arch erected by the people of Rome in
honour of his victory at Jerusalem, on the left-hand whereof he is
represented drawne in a charriot with 4 horses abreast ; on the right-
hand, or side of the arch within, is sculptur'd in figures, or basse re
lievo as big as the life, and in one intire marhle, the Arke of the Cove
nant, on which stands the seaven-branch'd candlestick describ'd in Le
viticus, as also the two Tables of the Law, ajl borne on men's shoul
ders by the barrs, as they are describ'd in some of St. Hierom's Bibles ;
before this go many crown'd and laureated figures, and 12 Roman
fasces, with sacred vessels. This much confirmed the idea I before
had ; and, for the light it gave to the Holy History, I caused my
paynter Carlo to copy it exactly. The rest of the worke of the Arch is
of the noblest, best understood composita.
Sca Maria Nova is on the place where they told us Simon Magus
fell out of the ayre at St. Peter's prayerr and burst himselfe to pieces

ROME. 1644.] 105
on a flint. Neere this is a marble monument erected by the people of
Rome in memory of the Pope's returne from Avignon.
Being now pass'd the ruines of Meta sudante (which stood be
fore the Colosseum) provided to refresh the gladiators, we enter
the mighty ruines of the Vespasian Amphitheatre, begun by Ves
pasian, and finished by that excellent prince Titus. It is 830 Ro
man palmes in length (i. e. 130 paces), 90 in breadth at the area,
with caves for the wild beasts which us'd to be baited by men in
stead of doggs ; the whole oval peripheria 28884- palmes, and ca
pable of containing 87,000 spectators with ease and all accom'o-
dation : the 3 rowes of ' circles are yet entire ; the first was for the
senators, the middle for the nobility, the third for the people. At
the dedication of this place were 5000 wild beasts slain in 3 months
during which the feast lasted, to the expence of 10 millions of gold.
It is built of Tiburtine stone, a vast height, with the 5 orders of
architecture, by 30,000 captive Jewes. It is, without, of a perfect
circle, and was once adorn'd thick with statues, and remained intire
till of late that some of the stones were carried away to repaire the Citty
walls and build the Farnesian Palace. That which still appeares most
admirable is, the contrivance of the porticos, vaults, and staires, with
the excessive altitude, which well deserves this distich of the poet :
" Omnis Caesario cedat labor Amphitheatro,
Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus."
Neere it is a small chapell call'd Sta Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo,
which is erected on the steps or stages very lofty at one of its sides
or ranges within, and where there lives only a melancholy hermite. I
ascended to the very top of it with wonderfull admiration.
The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta sudante
before mentioned, at the beginning of the Via Appia on one side of
Monte Celio, and is perfectly intire, erected by the people in memory
of his victory over Maxentius at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole.
In the front is this inscription :
IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO
P. F. AVGVSTO S. P. Q. R.
QVOD INSTINCTV DIVINITA TIS MENTIS
MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO
TAM DE TYBANNO QVAM DE OMNI E1VS
VOL. I. p

106 [ROME. 1644.
FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS
REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS
ARCVM TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DICAVIT.
Hence we went to St. Gregorio in Monte Celio, where are many
privileged altars, and there they shew'd us an arme of that Saint and
other reliques. Before this Church stands a very noble portico.
17- I walked to Villa Borghesi, a house and ample garden on
Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the Citty walls, circumscrib'd by
another wall full of small turrets and banqueting-houses, which makes
it appeare at a distance like a little towne. Within it is an elysium
of delight, having in the centre a noble PalacC ; but the enterance of
the garden presents us with a very glorious fabrick or rather dore-
case adorn'd with divers excellent marble statues. This garden
abounded with all sorts of delicious fruit and exotiq simples, fountaines
of sundry inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also ad
joining to it a vivarium for estriges, peacocks, swanns, cranes, &c. and
divers strange beasts, deare, and hares. The grotto is very rare, and
represents among other devices artificial raine, and sundry shapes
of vessells, flowers, &c. which is effected by changing the heads of
the fountaines. The groves are of cypresse, laurell, pine, myrtil,
olive, &c. The 4 sphinxes are very antique and worthy observation.
To this is a volary full of curious birds. The house is square, with
turrets from which the prospect is excellent towards Rome and the
invironing hills covered as they now are with snow, wch indeed com
monly continues even a great part of the sum'er, affording great
refreshment. Round the house is a balustre of white marble, with
frequent jettos of water, and adorn'd with a multitude of statues. The
walls of the house are cover'd with antiq incrustations of history, as
that of Curtius, the Rape of Europa, Leda, &c. The cornices above
consist of frutages and festoons, between weh are niches furnish'd with
statues, wch order is observ'd to the very roofe. In the lodge at the
entry are divers good statues of consuls, &c. with two pieces of field
artillery upon carriages (a mode much practized in Italy before the
great men's houses), which they looke on as a piece of state more than
defence. In the first hall within are the 12 Roman Emperors, of
excellent marble: 'twixt them stand porphyry columns and o'ther

ROME.

1644.] 107

precious stones of vast height and magnitude, with urnes of Oriental
alabaster. Tables of Pietra-Commessa. Here is that renown'd Diana
wch JPompey worshipp'd ; the most incomparable Seneca, of touch
bleeding in an huge vasa of porphyrie, resembling the dropps of
his blood ; the so famous gladiator, and the Hermaphrodite upon
a quilt of stone. The new piece of Daphne, and David, of Ca-
valiero Bernini, is observable for the pure whiteness of the stone,
and the art of the statuary wch is stupendious. There are a multitude
of rare pictures of infinite value by the best masters ; huge tables of
porphyrie, and two exquisitely-wrought vases of the same. In another
chamber are divers sorts of instruments of musiq : amongst other toyes
that of a satyre with so artificialy express'd an human voice, with
the motion of eyes and head, that it might easily affright one who was
not prepared for that most extravagant sight. They shew'd us also a
chayre wch catches any who sitts downe in it so as not to be able l
to stirr out, by certaine springs concealed in the armes and back
thereoff, which at sitting downe surprizes a man on the suddaine, lock
ing him in by the armes and thighs, after, a true tretcherous Italian
guise. The perspective is considerable, compos'd by the position of
looking-glasses, which render a strange multiplication of things re
sembling divers most richly-furnish'd roomes. Here stands a rare clock
of German worke ; in a word, nothing but what is magnificent is to be
seen in this paradise.
The next day I went to the Vatican, where in the morning I saw
the ceremony of Pamfilio the Pope's nephew receiving a Cardinal's
hat ; this was the first time I had seen his holiness in pontificalibus.
After the Cardinals and Princes had met in the Consistory, the cere
mony was in the Pope's Chapell, where he was at the altar invested with
most pompous rites.
17 Novr. I visited St. Peter's, that most stupendious and incom
parable Basilicum, far surpassing any now extant in the world, and
perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, any that was ever built. The
largeness of the piazza before the portico is worth observing, because it
affords a noble prospect of the Church, not crowded up as for the most
part is the case in other places where greate churches are erected. In
this is a fountaine out of which gushes a river rather than a streeme,

108 [romf. 1644;
which ascending a good height breakes upon a round embosse of marble
into millions of pearles that fall into the subjacent basons with
greate noise ; I esteeme this one of the goodliest fountaines I ever saw.
Next is the Obelisq transported out of Egypt- and dedicated by
Octavius Augustus to Julius Caesar, whose ashes it formerly bore
on the sumit ; but being since overturn'd by the Barbarians, was re-
erected with ,vast cost and a most stupendious invention by Domenico
Fontana, architect to Sixtus V. The Obelisk consists of one intire
square stone without hieroglyphic, in height 72 foote, but compre
hending the base and all 'tis 108 foote high. It rests < on 4 lyons of
gilded copper. You may see through the base of the Obelisq and plinth
of the piedestal. Upon two faces of the Obelisq is engraven : x
DIVO CAES. DIVI
IVLII F. AVGVSTO
TI. CAES. DIVI AVG.
F. AVGVST. SACRVM.
It now beares on the top a crosse in which 'tis sayd that Sixtus V.
inclosed some of the holy wood; and under it is to be read by good eyes:
SANCTISSIMAE CRVCI
SIXTVS V. POINT. MAX.
CONSECRAVIT.
E PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM
ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB.
I. 1.. ABLATVM M.D.LXXXVI.
On the foure faces of the base below :
1. CHRISTVS VINCIT.
CHRISTVS REGNAT.
CHRISTVS IMPERAT.
CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO
PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT.
2. SIXTVS V. PONT. MAX.
OBELISCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM
IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM
AD APOSTOLORVM LIMINA
OPEROSO LABORE TRANSTVLIT
AN. M.D.LXXXVI. PONT. II.
3. ECCE CRVX DOMINI
FVGITE PARTES
ADVERSAE
VINCIT LEO
DE TRIBV IVDA.
4. SIXTVS V. PONT. MAX.
CRVCI INVICTAE

ROME. 1644.] 109
OBELISCVM VATICANVM
AB IMPIA SVPERST1T10NE
EXPIATVM IVSTIVS
ET FELICIVS GONSECRAVIT
AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. II.
A little lower :
DOMINI CVS FONTANA EX PAGOMILIAGRI NOVOCOMENSIS TRANSTVLITET EREXI1 .
It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have cost 37,975
crowns, the labor of 907 men and ^5 horses ; it was the first of the 4
Egyptian Obelisks set up at Rome, and one of the 42 brought to the
Citty out of Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by the
Goths, Barbarians, and Earthquakes. See Platina in Vita Pontiff, p.
315. — Some coaches stood before the stepps of the ascent, whereof
one belonging to Card'. Medici had all the metall worke of massy
silver ; viz. the bow behind and other places. The coaches at Rome,
as well as cover'd wagons wch are also much in use, are generally
the richest and largest I ever saw. Before the faciata of the Church is
an ample pavement. The Church was first begun by St. Anacletus
when rather a Chapel, on a foundation as they give out of Constan-
tine the Great, who in honour of the Apostles carried 12 baskets full of
sand to the work. After him Julius II. tooke it in hand, to which all
his successors have contributed more or less.
The front is suppos'd to *be the largest and best studied piece of
architecture in the world; to this we went up by 4 stepps of marble.
The first entrance is supported by huge pilasters ; the volto within is
the richest in the world, overlayd with gold. Between the 5 large
anti-ports are columns of enormous height and compass, with as many
gates of brasse the worke and sculpture of Pollajuolo the Florentine,
full of cast figures and histories in a deepe relievo. Over this runs
a terrace of like amplitude and ornament, where the Pope at solemn
times bestowes his benediction on the vulgar. On each side of this
portico are two campaniles, or towers, whereof there was but one per
fected, of admirable art. On the top of all runns a balustrade wch
edges it quite round, and upon this at equal distances are Christ and
the 12 Disciples of gigantic size and stature, yet below shewing no
greater than the life. Entring the Church, admirable is the bredth of
the volto or roofe wch is all carv'd with foliage and roses overlayd wth
gold in nature of a deepe bass relievo, a V antiq. The nave, or body,

110 [ROME. 1644.
is iu forme of a crosse, whereof the foote part is the longest ; and at the
intemodium of the transept rises ye cupola, wch being all of stone and
of prodigious height is more in compasse than yt of the Pantheon (wch
was the largest amongst the old Romans, and is yet intire) or any other
in yc world. The inside or concave is cover'd wth most exquisite Mo
saic] representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by Giuseppe d'Arpino, full
of starrs of gold ; the convex or outside expos'd to ye aire, is cover'd
wth lead wth great ribbs of metall double guilt (as are also the ten
other lesser cupolas, for no fewer adorn this glorious structure) which
gives a great and admirable splendor in all parts of ye Citty. On the
sum'it of this is fix'd a brasen globe gilt, capable of receiving 35
persons. This I entered and engrav'd my name amongst other travel
lers. Lastly is the crosse, the access to wch is betweene the leaden co
vering and the stone convex or arch-worke, a most truly astonishing
piece of art. On the battlements of the Church, also all overlayd wth
lead and marble, you would imagine yourself in a town, so many are
the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, juttings, and not a few houses inhabited
by men who dwell there, and have enough to do to looke after the vast
reparations wch continually employ them.
We descended into the body of the Church, which is full of col
lateral! Chapells and large Oratories, most of them exceeding the size
of ordinary Churches ; but the principal are fowre incrusted with most
precious marbles and stones of various colours, adorn'd with an infinity
of statues, pictures, stately altars, and innumerable reliques. The
altar-piece of St. Michael being of Mosaiq I could not passe without
particular note, as one of the best of that kind. The Chapel of Gre
gory XIII. where he is buried, is most splendid. Under the cupola,
and in ye center of the Church, stands the high altar, consecrated first
by Clement VIII. adorn'd by Paul V. and lately cover'd by Pope
Urban VIII. with that stupendous canopy of Corinthian brasse which
heretofore was brought from the Pantheon ; it consists of 4 wreath'd
columns partly channel'd and incircl'd with vines, on ' which hang
little puti, birds and bees (the armes of the Barbarini), sustaining
a baldachino of the same mettal. The 4 columns weigh an hundred
and ten thousand pounds, all over richly gilt; this with the pedes-
talls, crowne, and statues about it, form a thing of y* art, vastness,

ROME. 1644.] Ill
and magnificence, as is beyond all that man's industry has produced
of the kind : it is the work of Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect,
painter, and poet, who, a little before my coming to the Citty, gave a
publiq Opera (for so they call shews of that kind) wherein he painted
the scenes, cut the statues, invented the engines, compos'd the musiq,
writ the comedy, and built the theatre. Opposite to either of these
pillars, under those niches which with their columns support the
weighty cupola, are placed 4 exquisite statues of Parian marble, to
which are 4 altars ; that of St. Veronica made by Fra. Mochi, has over
it the Reliquary, where they shew'd us the miraculous Sudarium in
dued wth the picture of ov Saviour's face, with this inscription : " Salva-
toris imaginem Veronicee Sudario excepta" ut loci majestas decenter
custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmoreum signum et Altare
addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit."
Right against this is yl of Longinus, of a Colossean magnitude, also by
Bernini, and over him the Conservatory of ye iron lance inserted in a most
precious chrystal, with this epigraph : " Longini Lanceam quam Inno-
centius VIII. a Basagete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. sta-
tua apposita, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium transtulit."
The third Chapel has over the altar the statue of our country
woman St. Flelena the mother of Constantine the Great, the worke of
Boggi, an excellent sculptor; and here is preserved a greate piece of the
pretended wood of the holy'crosse, which she is said to have first detected
miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope
with this inscription : " Partem Crucis quam Helena Imperatrix e Cal-
vario in Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. e Sissoriana Basi
lica desumptam, additis ara et statua, hie in Vaticano collocavit."
The 4th hath over the altar, and opposite to that of St. Veronica,
the statue of St. Andrew, the worke of Fiamingo, admirable above all
the other; above is preserv'd the head of y* Apostle richly inchas'd.
It is said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed
in a disadvantageous light by Bernini the chiefe architect, who found
himselfe outdone by this artist. The inscription over it is this :
" St. Andreae caput quod Pius II. ex Achaia in Vaticanum asportandum
curavit, Urbanus VIII.- novis hie ornamentis decoratum, sacrisq' statuae, ac
Sacelli honoribus coli voliiit."

112 [ROME. 1644.
The Reliques shew'd and kept in this Church are without number,
as are also the precious vessels of gold, silver, and gems, with the vests
and services to be seene in the Sacristy, which they shew'd us. Under
the high altar is an ample grot inlaid with Pietra Com'essa, wherein
half of the bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserv'd ; before hang
divers greate lamps of the richest plate burning continually. About
this and contiguous to the altar runns a balustrade in forme of a
theatre, of black marble. Towards the left as you goe out of the
Church by the portico, a little beneath the high altar is an old brasse
statue of St. Peter sitting, under the soles of whose feete many devout
persons rub their heads and touch their chaplets. This was formerly
cast from a statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another place stands a
columne grated about wlh vron, whereon they report that our Bl. Sa
viour was often wont to leane as he preached in the Temple. In the
work of the reliquary under the cupola there are 8 wreathed columns.
wcU were brought from the Temple of Solomon. In another Chapell
they shew'd us the chayre of St. Peter, or as they name it, the Apos
tolical Throne ; but amongst all the Chapells the one most glorious
has for an altar-piece a Madona bearing a dead Christ on her knees
in white marble, the work of M. Angelo. At the upper end of the
Cathedral are several stately monuments, especialy that of Urban VIII.
Round the cupola and in many other places in the Church are cori-
fession-seates for all languages, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish, Italian,
French, English, Irish, Welsh, Sciavonian, Dutch, &c. as it is written
on their freezes in golden capitals, and there are still at confessions
some of all nations. Towards the lower end of the Church and on
the side of a vast pillar sustaining a weighty roofe, is the depositum
and statue of the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, wth basso-relievos
about it of white marble, the worke of Bernini. Here are also those
of Sextus IV. and Paulus III. &c. Amongst the exquisite pieces in
this sumptuous fabriq is that of the Ship with St. Peter held up from
sinking by or Saviour ; the emblems about it are the Mosaiq of the
famous Giotto, who restor'd and made it perfect after it had been,
defaced by the Barbarians. Nor is -the pavement under the cupola to
be passed over without observation, which with the rest of the body
and walls of the whole Church, are all inlaid with the richest of

ROME. 1644.J 113
Pietra Com'essa, in the most splendid colours of polish'd marbles,
achats, serpentine, porphyry, calcedone, &c. wholy incrusted to ye
very roofe. Coming out by the portico at which we entred, we were
shew'd the Porto Santo, never opened but at the year of jubilee. This
glorious foundation hath belonging to it 30 Canons, 36 Beneficiates,
28 Clearks benefic'd, with in'umerable Chaplaines, &c. a Cardinal
being always Arch-Priest ; the present Cardinal was Franc. Barberini,
who also stiled himselfe Protector of the English, to whom he was
indeede very courteous.
20 Nov. I went to visite that ancient See and Cathedral of St. John
de Laterana, and the holy places thereabout. This is a Church of
extraordinary devotion, though for outward forme not comparable to St.
Peter's, being of Gotiq ordonance. Before we went into the Cathedral,
the Baptisterie of St. John Baptist presented itselfe, being formerly
part of the Greate Constantine's Palace, and as it is sayd, his chamber
where by St. Silvester he was made a Christian ;' it is octagonal, hav
ing before the entrance 8 faire pillars of rich porphyrie, each of one
intire piece, their capitalls of divers orders supporting lesser columnes
of white marble, and these supporting a noble cupola, the moulding
whereof is excellently wrought. Women are prohibited from entering
this chamber, for the malice of Herodias who caus'd him to loose his
head. Here are deposited several sacred reliques of St. James, Mary
Magdalen, St. Matthew, &c. and two goodly pictures. Another Cha
pel or Oratory neere it is called St. John the Evangelist, well adorn'd
wth marbles and tables, especialy those of Cavalier Giuseppe, and of
Tempesta, in fresco. We went hence into another called St. Venan-
tius, in which is a Tribunal all of Mosaiq in figures of Popes ; here is
also an altar of the Madona much visited, and divers Sclavonish Saints,
companions of Pope John IV- The portico of the Church is built of
materials brought from Pontius Pilate's house in Jerusalem.
The next sight which attracted our attention was a wonderful con
course of people at their devotions before a place call'd Scala Sancta,
to which is built a noble front. Entering the portico, we saw those
large marble stayres, 28 in number, which are never ascended but on
the knees, some lip-devotion being us'd on every step, on which you
vol. 1. Q

144 [ROME. 1644.
may perceive divers red specks of blood under a grate which they
affirme to have been drops of or Bl. Saviour at the time he was so bar
barously mis-us'd by Herod's souldiers, for these stayres are reported
to have been translated hither from his Palace in Jerusalem. At the
top of these stayres is a Chapell, whereat they enter, but we could not
be permitted, by gates of marble, being the same our Saviour passed
when he went out of Herod's house. This they name the Sanctum
Sanctorum, and over it we read this epigraph : Non est in toto sanc-
tior orbe locus. Here, through a grate, we saw that picture of Christ
paynted as they say by St. Luke to the life. Descending again, we
saw before the Church the Obelise, which is indeed most worthy of
admiration. It formerly lay in the Circo Maximo, and was erected
here by Sixtus V. in 1587, being 112 foote in height without the base
or pedestal ; at ye foote 9§ one way and 8 the other. This pillar was first
brought from Thebes at the utmost confines of Egypt, to Alexandria,
from thence to Constantinople, thence to Rome, and is said by Ammi-
anus Marcellinus to have been dedicated to Ramises King of Egypt.
It was transferr'd to this City by Constantine the sonne of the Great,
and is full of hieroglyphics, serpents, men, owles, falcons, oxen, instru
ments, &c. containing (as Father Kercher the Jesuit will shortly tell
us in a book which he is ready to publish) all the recondite and abstruse
learning of that people. The vessel, gaily, or floate y* brought it to
Rome so many hundred leagues must needs have been of wonderful big
nesse and strange fabriq. The stone is one and intire, and [having
been thrown down] was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana for that
magnificent Pope Sixtus V. as the rest were ; 'tis now cracked in many
places, but solidly joyn'd. The Obelisk is thus inscrib'd at the several
faciatas :
Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum a patre suo
motum diuq; Alexandria; jacentem trecentorum remigum impositum navi
mirandi vastitatis per mare Tiberimq; magnis molibus Romam convectum in
Circo Max. ponendum S. P. Q. R. D. D.
On the second square :
Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christianae fidei Vindex & Assertor Obeliscum
ab iEgyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum sedibus avulsum suis per Nilum

ROME. 1644-] 115
transfer. Alexandriam ut novam Romam ab se tunc conditam eo decoraret
monumento. On the third :
Sixtus V. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximia temporum calamitate
fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo limoq; alte demersum, multa impensa
extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit, formaeq; pristinae accurate
vestitum, Cruci invictissimae dicavit anno M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. IIII.
On the fourth :
Constantinus per Crucem Victor a Silvestro hie baptisatus Crucis gloriam
propagavit. Leaving this wonderful monument (before which is a stately publiq
fountaine, wth a statue of St. John in the middle of it) we visited his
Holyness's Palace, being a little upon the left hand, the designe of Fon-
tana architect to Sixtus V. ; this I take to be one of the best Palaces in
Rome; but not staying, we enterd the Church of St. John de Lateran,
wcb is properly the Cathedral of the Roman See, as I leam'd by these
verses engraven upon the architrave of the portico :
Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali
Quod sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiaru"
Hinc Salvatoris ccelestia regna datoris
Nomine sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt ;
Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto
Nostra quod haec aedes tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes.
'Tis call'd Lateran from a noble family dwelling it seems here
abouts, on Mons Caelius. The Church is Gotiq, and hath a stately
tribunal ; the paintings are of Pietro Pisano. It was the first Church
y* was consecrated with the ceremonies now introduc'd ; and where
altars of stone supplied those of wood, heretofore in use and made like
large chests for the easier removal in times of persecution, such an
altar is still the greate one here preserved, as being that on which (they
hold) St. Peter celebrated masse at Rome, for which reason none but the
Pope may now presume to make that use of it. The pavement is of all
sorts of precious marbles, and so are the walles to a great height, over
which 'tis painted a fresca with the life and acts of Constantine the
Greate, by most excellent masters. The organs are rare, supported

116 [ROME. 1644.
by 4 columns. The suffito is all richly gilded and full of pictures. Op
posite to the porte is an altar of exquisite architecture with a tabernacle
on it all of precious stones, the worke of Targoni ; on this is a Ccena of
plate, the invention of Curtius Vanni, of exceeding value ; the tables
hanging over it are of Giuseppe d'Arpino. About this are 4 excellent
columnes transported out of Asia by the Emperor Titus, of brasse double
gilt, about 12 foote in height; the walls betweene them are incrusted
wth marble and set with statues in niches, the vacuum reported to be fill'd
with holy earth wch St. Helena sent from Jerusalem to her sonn Constan-
tine, who set these pillars where they now stand. At one side of this is
an Oratory full of rare paintings and monuments, especially those of the
great Connestable Colonna. Out of this we came into the Sacristia, full
of good pictures of Albert and others. At the end of the Church is a flat
stone supported by 4 pillars which they affirme to have beene the exact
height of our Bl. Saviour, which they say never fitted any mortal man
that tried it, but he was either taller or shorter ; two columns of the
vaile of the Temple which rent at his passion ; the stone on which they
threw lots for his seamelesse vesture, and the pillar on which the cock
crow'd after Peter's denial ; and, to omit no fine thing, the just length
of the Virgin Mary's foote as it seems her shoemaker affirm'd. Here is a
most sumptuous crosse beset with precious stones, containing some of
the very wood of the holy crosse itselfe; with many other things of this
sort. Here are many most magnificent monuments, especialy those of
St. Helen of porphyrie; Cardinal Farneze; Martine the first of copper.
The pictures of Mary Magdalen, Martine V, Laurent. Valla, &c. are of
Gaetano ; the Nunciata, designed by M. Angelo ; and the greate Cru
cifix of Sermoneta. In a Chapel at one end of the porch is a statue of
Henry IV. of France in brasse, standing in a darke hole, and so has
don many yeares; perhaps from not believing him a thorough proselyte.
The 2 famous Oecumenical Councils were celebrated in this Church by
Pope Simachus, Martin the first, Stephen, &c.
Leaving this venerable Church (for in truth it has a certaine majesty
in it) we pass'd through a faire and large Hospital of good architecture,
having some inscriptions put up by Barberini, the late Pope's nephew.
We then went by St. Sylvia, where is a noble statue of St. Gregory P.

ROME. 1644.] 117
began by M. Angelo, a St. Andrewe, and the Bath of St. Cecilia. In
this Church are some rare paintings, especialy that story on the wall of
Guido Rheni. — Thence to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the Friers are
reported to be greate chymists. The quire, roofe and paintings in the
Tribuna are excellent. — Descending the Mons Caelius we come. against
the vestiges of the Palazzo Maggiore, heretofore the Golden House of
Nero ; now nothing but an heape of vast and confused ruines, to shew
what time and the vicissitude of human things dos change from the
most glorious and magnificent to the most deformed and confused. — We
next went into St. Sebastian's Church, which has an handsome front.
We then pass'd by the place where Romulus and Remus were taken
up by Faustulus ; the Forum Romanum ; and so by the edge of the
Mons Palatinus, where we were shew'd the ruines of Pompey's house,
and the Church of St. Anacletus ; and so into the Circus Maximus,
heretofore capable of containing an hundred and sixty thousand spec
tators, but now all one entire heape of rubbish, part of it converted into
a garden of pot-herbs. We concluded this evening with hearing the
rare voices and musiqat the Chiesa Nova.
21 Nov. I was carried to see a great virtuoso Cavaliero Pozzo,
who shew'd us a rare collection of all kind of antiquities, and a choice
library, over which are the effigies of most of our late men of polite
literature. He had a great collection of the antiq bassi-relievos about
Rome, wcb this curious man hadcaus'd to be design'd in several folios;
many fine medails ; the stone which Pliny calls Enhydrus ; it had
plainly in it the quantity of halfe a spoonfull of water, of a yellow
pebble colour, of the bigness of a walnut. A stone in a ring without
foiles, paler than an amethyst,, which yet he affirm'd to be the true
carbuncle, and harder than a diamond ; 'twas set in a ring, without
foile or anything at the bottom, so as it was transparent, of a greenish
yellow, more lustrous than a diamond. He had very pretty things
painted on crimson velvet, design'd in black, and shaded and heighten'd
with white, set in frames; also a number of choice designs and drawings.
Hence we walked to the Suburra and Erariu Saturni, where yet
remaine some ruines and an inscription. From thence to St. Pietro in
Vinculi, one of the 7 Churches on the Esqueline, an old and much fre-

118 [rome. 1644.
quented place of greate devotion for the relicks there, especially the
bodyes of the seaven Maccabean breathren which lye under the altar.
On the wall is a St. Sebastian of Mosaic, after the Greeke manner :
but w* I chiefly reguarded was that noble sepulchre of Pope Julius II.
the worke of M. Angelo, with that never sufficiently to be admired
statue of Moses in white marble, and those of Vita Cdntemplativa and
Activa by the same incomparable hand. To this Church belongs a
Monastery, in the Court of whose Cloisters grow two tall and very
stately palme-trees. Behind these are the Bathes of Titus with pro
digious receptacles for water, which the vulgar call the Setti Sali, now
all in heapes.
23 Nov. There was the solemne and greatest ceremony of all the
Ecclesiastical States, viz. the procession of the Pope (Innocent X.) to
St. John de Lateran. Standing on the stepps of Ara Celi, neere the
Capitol, I saw it passe in this manner : — First went a guard of
Swissers to make way, and divers of the avant guard of horse carrying
lances. Next follow'd those who carried the robes of the Cardinals,
two and two; then the Cardinals Mace - bearers ; the Caudatari on
mules ; the Masters of their Horse ; the Pope's Barber, Taylor, Baker,
Gardner, and other domestic officers, all on horseback in rich liveries ;
the Squires belonging to the guard ; 5 men in rich liveries led 5 noble
Neapolitan horses white as snow cover'd to the ground with trappings
richly embroidered, which is a service paid by the King of Spaine for
the kingdomes of Naples and Sicily, pretended feudatorys to the Pope ;
3 mules of exquisite beauty and price, trapp'd in crimson velvet: 3 rich
litters with mules, the litters empty ; the Master of the Horse alone,
with his Squires ; 5 Trumpeters; the Amerieri estra muros; the Fi scale
and Consistorial Advocates ; Capellani, Camerieri de honore, Cubicu-
lari and Chamberlaines, call'd Secreti ; 4 other Camerieri with 4 capps
of the dignity Pontifical, which were Cardinals' hatts carried on staffs ;
4 Trumpets; after them a number of noble Romans and gentlemen of
quality very rich, follow'd by innumerable Staffieri and Pages; the Secre
taries of the Chancellaria, Abbreviatori-Acoliti in their long robes and
on mules ; Auditori di Rota ; the Deane of the Roti and Master of the
sacred Palace on mules, with grave but rich foote clothes, and in flat

ROME. 1644.] 119
episcopal hatts ; then went more of the Roman and other Nobility and
Courtiers, wth divers Pages in most rich liveries on horseback; 14 Drums
belonging to the Capitol; the Marshalls with their staves; the 2
Sindics; the Conservators of the Citty in robes of crimson damask; the
Knight Confalonier and Prior of the R. R. in velvet tocques ; 6 of his
holynesses Mace-bearers ; then the Captaine or Governor of the Castle
of St. Angelo upon a brave prancer ; the Governor of the Citty ; on
both sides of these 2 long ranks of Swissers ; the Masters of the Cere
monies ; the Crosse-bearer on horseback, wth two Priests at each hand
on foote ; Pages, Footmen, and Guards in aboundance ; then came the
Pope himselfe, carried in a litter or rather open chaire of crimson velvet
richly embrodred, and borne by two stately mules ; as he went he held
up two fingers, blessing, the multitude who were on their knees or
looking out of their windows and houses, wth loud viva's and acclama
tions of felicity to their new Prince. This was follow'd by the Master
of his Chamber, Cupp-bearer, Secretary, and Physitian ; then came
the Cardinal Bishops, Cardinal Priests, Cardinal Deacons, Patriarchs,
Archbishops, and Bishops, all in their several and distinct habits, some
in red, others in greene flat hatts wtb tassells, all on gallant mules
richly trapp'd wtb velvet and lead by their servants in great state and
multitudes ; then came the Apostolical Protcnotari, Auditor, Tresurer,
and Referendaries ; lastly, the Trumpets of the reare-guard, 2 Pages
of Armes in helmets wtb feathers and carrying launces ; 2 Captaines ;
the Pontifical Standard of the Church : the two Alfieri or Cornets of
the Pope's Light Horse, who all follow'd in armor and carrying launces;
which, with innumerable rich coaches, litters, and people, made up
the procession. What they did at St. John di Laterano I could not see
by reason of the prodigious crowd ; so I spent most of the day in
viewing the two triumphal arches which had been purposely erected a
few days before, and till now covered ; the one by the Duke of Parma
in the Foro Romano, the other by the Jewes in the Capitol, wtb flat
tering inscriptions. They were of excellent architecture, decorated with
statues and aboundance of ornaments proper for ye occasion, since they
were but temporary, and made up of boards, cloath, &c. painted and
fram'd on the suddaine, but as to outward appearance solid and very

120 [ROME. 1644.
stately. The night ended wtb fire-workes. That wcb I saw was that
which was built before the Spanish Ambassrs house in the Piazza del
Trinita, and another of the French. The first appear'd to be a mighty
rock, bearing the Pope's armes, a dragon, and divers figures, which
being set on fire by one who flung a roquet at it, tooke fire immediately,
yet preserving the figure both of ye rock and statues a very long time,
insomuch as it was deemed ten thousand reports of squibbs and crackers
spent themselves in order. That before the French Ambassrs Palace
was a Diana drawne in a chariot by her doggs, with aboundance of other
figures as large as yc life, which plaied wth fire in the same manner. In
the meane time the windows of the whole Citty were set with tapers put
into lanterns or sconces of several colour'd oyl'd paper, that the wind
might hot annoy them ; this render'd a most glorious shew. Besides
these there were at least 20 other fire-workes of vast charge and rare art
for their invention befor diverse Ambass", Princes, and Cardinals Pa
laces, especialy that on the Castle of St. Angelo, being a pyramid of
lights, of greate height, fastned to ye ropes and cables wcb support the
standard-pole. The streetes were this night as light as day, full of
bonfires, canon roaring, musiq playing, fountaines running wine, in
all excesse of joy and triumph.
24. Nov. I went to the Jesuites CoUedge againe, the front whereoff
gives place to few forks architecture, most of its ornaments being of rich
marble. It has within a noble Portico and Court, sustain'd by stately
columnes, as is the Corridor over the Portico, at the sides of which are
the Scholes for the Arts and Sciences, which are here taught as at the
University. Here I heard Father Athanasius Kercher upon a part of
Euclid, wch he expounded. To this joynes a glorious and ample Church
for ye Students ; a second is not fully finish'd ; and there are two noble
Libraries where I was shew'd that famous wit and historian Famianus
Strada. Hence we went to the house of Hippolito Vitellesco (after
wards Bibliothecary of ye Vatican Library) who shew'd us one of the best
collections of Statues in Rome, to which he frequently talkes as if they
were living, pronouncing now and then orations, sentences, and verses,
sometimes kissing and embracing them. He has an head of Brutus
scarr'd in the face by order of the Senate for killing Julius; this is much

ROME. 1644.] 121
esteem'd. Also a Minerva and others of greate value. This gentleman
not long since purchased land in the kingdome of Naples, in hope by
digging ye ground to find more statues ; which it seemes so far suc
ceeded as to be much more worth than ye purchase. We spent the
evening at the Chiesa Nova, where was excellent musiq ; but before
that began the courteous Fathers led me into a nobly-furnish'd Library
contiguous to their most beautifull Convent.
28. I went to see the garden and house of the Aldobrandini, now
Cardinal Borghese's. This palace is, for architecture, magnificence,
pompe and state, one of the most considerable about the Citty. It has
4 fronts, and a noble Piazza before it. Within the Court, under arches
supported by marble columns, are many excellent statues. Ascending
the stayres there is. a rare figure of Diana of white marble. The St. Se
bastian and Hermaphrodite are of stupendious art. For paintings, our
Saviour's head by Corregio ; several pieces of Raphael, some of which
are small ; some of Bassano Veroneze ; the Leda, and two admirable
Venus' s, are of Titian's pensill ; so is the Psyche and Cupid ; the head
of St. John borne by Herodias ; two heads of Albert Durer, very ex
quisite. We were shewn here a fine cabinet and tables of Florence -
worke in stone. In the garden are many fine fountaines, the walls
cover'd wtb citron-trees, which being rarely spread invest the stone
worke intirely ; and towards the streete, at a back gate, the Port is so
handsomely cloath'd with ivy as much pleas'd me. About this Palace
are many noble antiq bassi relievi, two especialy are placed on the
ground, representing armor and other military furniture of the Romans ;
beside these stand about the garden numerous rare statues, altars, and
urnes. Above all, for antiquity and curiosity (as being the onely rarity
of that nature now knowne to remaine) is that piece of old Roman
paynting representing the Roman Sponsalia, or celebration of their
marriage, judged to be 1400 yeares old, yet are the colours very lively
and the designe very intire, tho' found deepe in the ground. For this
morcell of painting's sake onely 'tis sayd that Borghesi purchased the
house, because this being on a wall in a kind of banqueting house in ye
garden could not be removed, but passe with the inheritance.
vol. 1. k

122 [rome. 1644*
29 Nov. I a second time visited the Medicean Palace, being neere
my lodging, the more exactly to have a view of the noble collections y*
adorne it, especialy the bass relievi and antiq frezes inserted about the
stone worke of the house. The Saturne of mettal standing in the
portico is a rare piece ; so is the Jupiter and Apollo in the hall. We
were now led into those roomes above we could not see before, full of
incomparable statues and antiquities ; above all, and happly preferable
to any in the world, are the two Wrestlers, for the inextricable mix
ture wtb each others armes and legges is stupendious. In the greate
chamber is the Gladiator whetting a knife ; but the Venus is without
parallel, being the master-piece of whose name you see graven under it
in old Greeke characters ; nothing in sculpture ever approached this
miracle of art. To this addMarcius, Ganymede, a little Apollo playing
on a pipe ; some relieui incrusted on the palace walls ; and an antiq vasa
of marble neare 6 foote high. Among the pictures may be mentioned
the Magdalen and St. Peter weeping. I passe over the cabinets and
tables of Pietra Com'essa, being the proper invention of the Floren
tines. In one of the chambers is a whimsical chayre, which folded
into so many varieties as to turn into a bed, a bolster, a table, or a
couch. I had another walk in the garden, where are two huge vasa's
or bathes of stone.
I went farther up the hill to the Pope's Palace at Monte Cavallo,
where I now saw the garden more exactly, and found it to be one of
the most magnificent and pleasant in Rome. I am told the gardener is
annualy alowed 2000 scudi for the keeping it. Here I observ'd hedges
of myrtle above a man's height ; others of laurell, oranges, nay of ivy
and juniper ; the close Walks, and rustic grotto ; a crvpta, of which
the laver or basin is of one vast, intire, antiq porphyrie, and below this
flows a plentifull cascade ; the stepps of the grotto and the roofs being
of rich Mosaiq. Here are hydraulic organs, and a fish-pond in an
ample bath. From hence we went to taste some rare Greco, and so
home. Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept within, for the
most part, till the 6th December, and during this time I entertain'd
one Signr. Alessandro, who gave me some lessons on the theorba.

ROME. 1644.] 123
The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed in a ferry-
boate, to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in Transtevere, fairely
built, but famous onely for the painting a fresca on the volto of the
portico towards the garden; the story is the Amours of Cupid and
Psyche, by the hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbin. Here you
always see Painters designing and copying after it, it being esteemed
one of the rarest pieces of y* art in the world, and with greate reason.
I must not omit that incomparable table of Galatea (as I remember),
so carefully preserved in the cupboard at one of the ends of this walke,
to protect it from ye aire, being a most lively painting. There are
likewise excellent things of Baldassare and others.
Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of Bracciano, fairely
built, with a stately court and fountaine. — Next we walked to St.
Mary's Church, where was the Taberna Meritoria, where the old Ro
man soldiers received their triumphal garland, which they ever after
wore. The high altar is very faire, adorn'd with columns of porphyrie ;
here is also some mosaic worke about ye quire, and the Assumption is
an esteem'd piece. It is sayd that this Church was the first that was
dedicated to the Virgin at Rome. In the opposite Piazza is a very
sumptuous fountaine.
12. I went againe to St. Peter's, to see the Chapells, Churches, and
Grotts under the whole Church (like our St. Faith's under Paules,) in
which lie interr'd a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes ; amongst
them our countryman Hadrian IV- in a chest of porphyrie ; St. Jo:
Chrysostom ; Petronella ; the heads of St. James Minor, St. Luke,
St. Sebastian, and our Thomas & Becket ; a shoulder of St. Christo
pher ; an arme of Joseph of Arimathea ; Longinus ; besides 134 more
Bishops, Souldiers, Princes; Scholars, Cardinals, Kings, Emperors,
their wives, too long to particularize.
Hence we walked into the Cemitery cal'd Campo Santo, the earth
consisting of severall ship loads of mould transported from Jerusalem,
which consumes a carcasse in 24 houres. To this joynes that rare
Hospital, where once was Nero's Circus ; and next to this is the In
quisition house and prison, the inside whereoff, I thanke God, I was
not curious to see. To this joins his Holinesse's Horse-guards.

124 [rome. 1644.
On Christmas Eve I went not to bed, being desirous of seeing the
many extraordinary ceremonies performed then in their Churches, as
midnight masses and sermons. I went from Church to Church the
whole night in admiration at the multitude of sceanes and pageantry
which the Friers had with much industry and craft set out, to catch the
devout women and superstitious sort of people, who never parted with
out dropping some money into a vessell set on purpose ; but especialy
observable was the pupetry in the Church of the Minerva, representing
the Nativity. I thence went and heard a sermon at the Apollinare, by
which time it was morning. On Christmas Day his Holinesse saing
Masse, the artillerie at St. Angelo went off, and all this day was ex
pos'd the cradle of our Lord.
29. We were invited by the English Jesuites to dinner, being their
greate feast of Thomas [a Becket] of Canterbury. We din'd in their
common Refectory, and afterward saw an Italian Comedy acted by
their alumni before the Cardinals.
1645. Jan. We saw passe the new officers of the people of Rome;
especialy for their noble habits were most conspicuous yc 3 Consuls,
now call'd Conservators, who take their places in the Capitol, having
been sworne the day before betwene the hands of the Pope. We ended
the day wtb the rare musiq at the Chiesa Nova.
6 Jan. Was the ceremony of our Saviour's Baptisme in the Church
of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Celi was a greate procession, del Bam
bino as they call it, where were all the Magistrates, and a wonderfull
concourse of people.
7- A Sermon was preach'd to the Jewes at Ponte Sisto, who are
' constraint to sit till the houre is don ; but it is with so much malice in
their countenances, spitting, hum'ing, coughing, and motion, that it
is almost impossible they should heare a word from the preacher. A
conversion is very rare.
14. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are exposed at St. J. La-
terano. 15. The Zitelle, or young wenches, which are to have portions
given them by the Pope, being poore, and to marry them, walked in
procession to St. Peter's, where the Veronica was shew'd.

ROME. 1645-] 125
I went to the Ghetto, where the Jewes dwell as in a suburbe by
themselues ; being invited by a Jew of my acquaintance to see a Cir
cumcision. I passed by the Piazza Judea, where their Seraglio begins ;
for, being invirori'd wtb walls, they are lock'd up every night. In this
place remaines yet part of a stately fabric, which my Jew told me had
been a palace of theirs for the ambassador of their nation when their
country was subject to the Romans. Being lead through the Syna
gogue into a privat house, I found a world of people in a chamber : by
and by came an old man, who prepared and layd in order divers instru
ments brought by a little child of about 7 yeares old in a box. These
the man layd in a silver bason ; the knife was much like a short razor
to shut into ye haft. Then they burnt some incense in a censer, wch
perfum'd the rome all the while the ceremony was performing. In the
basin was a little cap made of white paper like a capuchin's hood,
not bigger than the finger ; also a paper of a red astringent powder,
I suppose of bole ; a small instrument of silver, cleft in the middle at
one end to take up the prepuce withall ; a fine linen cloth wrapped up.
These being all in order, the women brought the infant, swaddl'd, out
of another chamber, and delivered it to the Rabbie, who carried and
presented it before an altar or cupbord dress'd up, on which lay the 5
Bookes of Moses, and the Commandments a little unrowled ; before
this, with profound reverence, and mumbling a few words, he waved
the child to and fro awhile ; then he deliver'd it to another Rabbie,
who sate all this time upon a table. Whilst the ceremony was per
forming, all the company fell a singing an Hebrew hymn in a barbarous
tone, waving themselves to and fro, a ceremony they observe in all
their devotions. — The Jewes in Rome all wear yellow hatts, live onely
upon brokage and usury, very poore and despicable, beyond what they
are in other territories of Princes where they are permitted.
18 Jan. I went to see the Pope's Palace, the Vatican, where he for
the most part keeps his Court. It was first built by Pope Simachus,
and since augmented to a vast pile of building by his successors. That
part of it added by Sixtus V. is most magnificent. This lead us into
divers tarraces arched sub dio, painted by Raphael wtb ye Historys of
the Bible, so esteem'd, that artists come from all parts of Europe to

126 [rome. i645«
make their studies from these designes. The foliage and grotesq about
some of the compartments are admirable *. In another rome are repre
sented at large mapps and plotts of most countries in the world, in vast
tables, with briefe descriptions. The stayres wcb ascend out of St.
Peter's portico into the first hall, are rarely contriv'd for ease ; these
leade into the hall of Gregory XIII. the walls whereof, halfe way to
the roofe, are incrusted wth most precious marbles of various colours
and workes. So is also the pavement inlaid worke ; but what ex
ceeds description is ye volta or rooff itselfe, which is so exquisitely
painted, that 'tis almost impossible for the skilfullest eye to discerne
whether it be the worke of the pensil upon a flatt, or of a toole cutt
deepe in stone. The Rota dentata in this admirable perspective, on
the left hand as one goes out, the Stella, &c. are things of art incom
parable. Certainly this is one of the most superb and royall apparte-
ments in the world, much too beautifull for a guard of gigantic Swissers,
who do nothing but drinke and play at cards in it. Going up these
stayres is a painting of St. Peter walking on the sea towards our Saviour.
Out of this I went into another hall, just before the chapell called
the Sola del Conclave, full of admirable paintings ; amongst other is
the Assassination of Colignij, the greate [Protestant] French Admiral,
murder'd by ye D. of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of
Hen. IV. with Queen Margarite ; under it is written, " Coligni et
sociorum caedes :" on the other side, "Rex Coligi necem probat."
There is another very large picture, under which is inscribed,
"Alexander Papa III. Fredrici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum fugiens
abdidit se Venetijs; cognitum et a senatu perhonorifice susceptum, Othone
Imperatoris filio navali praelio victo captoq; Fredericus pace facta supplex
adorat ; fidem et obedientiam pollicitus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Rep.
beneficio restituta mclxxviii." -f-
* Painted by John of Udine, scholar of Raphael, from the designs of Raphael. Painter's Voyage
of Italy, p. 17.
f Pope Alexander III. flying from the wrath and attack of the Emperor Frederick I. took
shelter at Venice, where he was acknowledged, and most honourably received by the Senate. The
Emperor's son Otho being conquered and taken in a naval battle, the Emperor, having made"
peace, became a suppliant to the Pope, promising faith and obedience. Thus his dignity was
restored to the Pontiff by the aid of the Republic of Venice, mclxxviii.

ROME. 1645-] 127
This inscription I the rather took notice of, because Urban VIII.
had caused it to be blotted out during the difference betweene him and
that State ; but it was now restor'd and refresh'd by his successor, to
the greate honor of the Venetians. The Battaile of Lepanto is
another faire piece here.
Now we came into the Pope's Chapell, so much celebrated for the
Last Judgment, painted by M. Angelo Buonarotti. It is a painting in
fresca upon a dead wall at the upper end of the Chapell, just over ye
high altar, of a vast designe and miraculous fancy, considering the
multitude of naked figures and variety of posture. The roofe also is
full of rare worke. — Hence we went into the Sacristia, where we were
shew'd all the most precious vestments, copes, and furniture of yb
Chapell. One priestly cope, with the whole suite, had been sent from
one of our English Henrys, and is shewn for a greate rarity. There
were divers of the Pope's pantofles that are kissed on his foote, having
rich Jewells embrodred on the instep, cover'd wtb crimson velvet ; also
his tyara, or triple crown, divers miters, crosiers, &c. all bestudded with
precious stones, gold, and pearle, to a very great value ; a very large
crosse, carved (as they affirme) out of the holy wood it selfe ; numerous
utensils of chrystal, gold, achat, amber, and other costly materials for
the altar.
We then went into those chambers painted wtb the Historys of the
burning of Rome, quenched by the procession of a Crucifix ; the Vic
tory of Constantine over Maxentius ; St. Peter's delivery out of Prison;
all by Julio Romano *, and are therefore cal'd the Paynters' Academy,
because you always find some young men or other designing from
them ; a civility wcb is not refused in Italy where any rare pieces of
the old and best masters are extant, and wch is the occasion of breeding
up many excellent men in that profession.
The Sala Clementina's Suffito is painted by Cherubin Alberti, with
an ample landskip of Paul Brill's.
We were then conducted into a new Gallery, whose sides were
painted with views of the most famous places, towns, and territories in

* A famous scholar of Raphael.

128 [rome. 1645-
Italy, rarely don, and upon the roofe the chiefe acts of the Roman
Church since St. Peter's pretended See there. It is doubtlesse one of
the most magnificent galleries in Europ.— Out of this we came into ye
Consistory, a noble roome, the volto painted in grotesq, as I remember.
At the upper end is an elevated throne, and a baldachino or canopy of
state, for his Holinesse, over it.
From thence, through a very long gallery (longer, I think, then the
French king's at the Louvre), but onely of bare walls, we were brought
into ye Vatican Library. This passage was now full of poore people,
to each of whom, in his passage to St. Peter's, the Pope gave a mezzo
grosse. I believe there were in number neer 1500 or 2000 persons.
' This Library is the most nobly built, furnish'd, and beautified of any
in the world; ample, stately, light, and cherefull, looking into a most
pleasant garden. The walls and roofe are painted, not with antiques
and grotescs, like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, dia
grams, and the like learned inventions, found out by the wit and in
dustry of famous men, of which there are now whole volumes extant.
There were likewise the effigies of the most illustrious men of letters
and fathers of the Church, with divers noble statues in white marble
at the entrance, viz. Hippolitus and Aristides. The Generall Councils
are painted on the side walls. As to ye ranging of the bookes, they
are all shut up in presses of wainscot, and not expos'd on shelves to the
open ayre, nor are the most precious mix'd amongst the more ordinary,
which are shew'd to the curious onely ; such as are those two Virgils
written in parchment, of more then a thousand yeares old ; the like a
Terence ; the Acts of ye Apostles in golden capital letters ; Petrarch's
Epigrams, written with .his owne hand ; also an Hebrew parchment
made up in the ancient manner, from whence they were first call'd
Volumina, wtb ye Cornua ; but what we English do much enquire after,
the booke which our Hen. VIII. writ against Luther*.
* This very book, by one of those curious chances that occasionally happen, has recently been
brought to England, where the Editor has seen it j and what is very remarkable, wherever the
title of Defender of the Faith is subjoined to the name of Henry, the Pope has drawn his pen
through the epithet. The name of the King occurs in his own hand-writing both at the beginning
and end ; and on the binding are the royal arms. The present possessor purchased it in Italy for
a few shillings from an old book-stall.

ROME. 1645-] 129
The largest roome is 100 paces long; at the end is the gallery of
printed books ; then the gallery of the D. of Urbans librarie, in which
are MSS. of remarkable miniature, and divers China, Mexican, Sama
ritan, Abyssin, and other Oriental books.
In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all the bookes
taken from Heidelburg, of which the learned Gruter and other greate
scholars had been keepers. These walls and volto are painted with
representations of the machines invented by Domenico Fontana for
erection of the obelisqs ; and the true designe of Mahomet's sepulchre
at Mecca.
Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during a vacancy,
the Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed upon a new election, the
whole manner whereof was describ'd to us.
Hence we went into the Pope's Armory under the Library. Over
the dore is this inscription : " Urbanus VIII. Litteris Arma, Arma
Litteris." I hardly believe any Prince in Europ is able to shew a more
compleately furnish'd Library of Mars for the quality and quantity,
wch is 40,000 compleate for horse and foote, and most neately kept.
Out of this we pass'd againe by the long Gallery and at the lower end of
it downe a- very large payr of stayres, round, without any stepps as usualy,
but descending with an evenesse so ample and easy that a horse-litter or
coach may wth ease be drawne up ; the sides of the vacuity are set wth
columns : those at Amboise on the Loire in France are something of
this invention but nothing so spruce. By these we descended into the
Vatican Gardens cal'd Belvedere, where entring first into a kind of
Court we were shew'd those incomparable statues (so fam'd by Pliny
and others) of Laocoon with his three sonns embrac'd by an huge ser
pent, all of one entire Parian stone very white and perfect, somewhat
bigger then the life, the worke of those three celebrated sculptors
Agesandrus, Polidorus, and Artemidorus, Rhodians ; it was found
amongst the ruines of Titus's Baths, and placed here. Pliny says this
statue is to be esteem'd before all pictures and statues in the world ; and
I am of his opinion, for I never beheld any thing of art approch it.
Here are also those two famous images of Nylus with the Children
playing about him, and that of Tyber ; Romulus and Rhemus with the
VOL. I. S

130 [rome. 1645.
Wolfe ; the dying Cleopatra ; the Venus and Cupid, rare pieces ; the
Mercury ; Cybel ; Hercules ; Apollo ; Antinous : most of which are, for
defence against the weather, shut up in niches with wainscot dores. We
were likewise shew'd the reliques of the Hadrian Moles, viz. the Pine, a
vast piece of mettall which stood on the summit of that mausoleum; also
a Peacock of coper supposed to have been part of Scipio's monument.
In the Garden without this (wcb containes a vast circuit of ground)
are many stately fountaines, especialy two casting water into antiq
lavors brought from Titus's Bathes ; some faire grotts and water
works, that noble cascade where the ship daunces, with divers other
pleasant inventions, walkes, terraces, meanders, fruite-trees, and a
most goodly prospect over the greatest part of the Citty. One fountaine
under the gate I must not omitt, consisting of three jettos of water
gushing out of the mouthes or proboscis of bees (the armes of the late
Pope), because of the inscription :
Quid miraris Apem, quae mel de floribus haurit ?
Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam.
23. We went without the walls of ye Citty to visite St. Paules, to
which place 'tis sayd the Apostle bore his owne head after Nero had
caus'd it to be cut off. The Church was founded by the Greate Con-
stantine ; the maine roofe is supported by 100 vast columns of marble,
and the Mosaiq worke of the greate arch is wrought with a very ancient
story A0 440 ; as is likewise that of the faciata. The gates are brasse
made at Constantinople in 1070, as you may reade by those Greeke
verses engraven on them. The Church is neere 500 foote long and 258
in breadth, and has 5 great iles joyn'd to it, on the bases of one of whose
columns is this odd title : " Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Praef. Urbis V. S. I.
reparavit." Here they shew'd us that miraculous Crucifix wcb they say
spake to St. Brigit : and just before the Ciborio stand two excellent sta
tues. Here are buried part of the bodys of St. Paule and St. Peter.
The pavement is richly interwoven wtb precious oriental marbles
about the high altar, where are also 4 excellent payntings whereof
one, representing the stoning of St. Stephen, is by the hand of a Bo-
lognian lady named Lavinia. The tabernacle on this altar is of excel
lent architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacramento are of

ROME. 1645-] 131
Lanfranchi. Diuers other reliques there be also in this venerable
Church, as a part of St. Anna ; the head of the Woman of Samaria ;
the chayne wcb bound St. Paule, and the' Eculeus us'd in tormenting
the primitive Christians. The Church stands in the Via Ostensis
about a mile from the walls of the Citty, separated from any buildings
neere it except the Tria Fontana, to which (leaving our coach) we
walked, going over the mountaine or little rising upon wcb story says
an hundred seaventy and 4 thousand Christians had been martyr'd by
Maximianus, Dioclesian, and other blody Tyrants. On this stand
St. Vincent's and Anastasius ; likewise the Church of St. Maria Scala
del Cielo, in whose Tribuna is a very faire Mosaiq worke. The Church
of the Tre Fontane (as they are call'd) is perfectly well built tho' but
small (whereas that of St. Paule is but Gotiq) having a noble cupola
in the middle ; in this thev shew the pillar to which St. Paule was
bound when his head was cut off and from whence it made three pro
digious leaps, where there im'ediately broke out the 3 remaining foun
taines which give denomination to this Church. The waters are reported
to be medicinal; over each is erected an altar and a chayned ladle for
better tasting of the waters. That most excellent picture of St. Peter's
crucifixion is of Guido.
25. I went againe to the Palazzo Farnese, to see some certaine sta
tues and antiquities wch by reason of the Major Domo not being within
I could not formerly obtaine. In the hall stands that triumphant Colosse
of one of the family, upon 3 figures, a modern, but rare piece. About it
stood some Gladiators; and at the entrance into one of the first chambers
are two cumbent figures of Age and Youth brought hither from St. Pe
ter's to make roome for the Longinus under the cupola. Here was the
statue of a ram running at a man on horseback, a most incomparable ex
pression of Fury cut in stone; and a table of Pietra Com'esse very curious.
The next chamber was all painted a fresca by a rare hand, as was the
carving in wood of the cieling weh as I remember was in cedar as the
Italian mode is, and not poore plaster as ours are ; some of them most
richly gilt. In a third rome stood the famous Venus, and the child
Hercules strangling a serpent of Corinthian brass antiq, on a very cu
rious bass-relievo; the sacrifice to Priapus; the Egyptian Isis in the hard

132 [ROME. 1645.
black ophit stone taken out of the Pantheon, greately celebrated by the
Antiquaries ; likewise two tables of brasse containing divers old Roman
laws. At another side of this chamber was the statue of a wounded
Amazon falling from her horse, worthy .the name of the excellent
sculptor, whoever the artist was. Neere this was a bass relievo of a
Bacchanalia wtb a most curious Silenus. The 4th room was totally in-
viron'd with statues ; especialy observable was that so renowned piece
of a Venus looking backward over her shoulder, and divers other naked
figures by the old Greeke masters. Over the doores are two Venus' s,
one of them looking on her face in a glasse by M. Angelo, the other
is painted by Caracci. I never saw finer faces, especialy that under the
masque whose beauty and art are not to be describ'd by words. The
next chamber is also full of statues most of them ye heads of Philoso
phers, very antiq. One of the Caesars and another of Hannibal cost
1200 crownes. Now I had a second view of that never to be sufficiently
admired gallery painted in deepe relievo, the worke of 10 yeares study
for a trifling reward. In the wardrobe above they shew'd us fine
wrought plate, porcelan, mazers of beaten and solid gold set with dia
monds, rubies, and emeralds; a treasure, especialy the workmanship
consider'd, of inestimable value. This is all the Duke of Parma's.
Nothing seem'd to be more curious and rare in its kind then the com-
pleate service of the purest chrystal for yc altar of the Chapell, the
very bell, cover of a book, sprinkler, &c. were all of the rock, incom
parably sculptur'd with the holy story in deepe Levati ; thus was also
wrought the crucifix, chalice, vasas, flower-pots, the largest and purest
chrystall that my eyes ever beheld. Truely I looked on this as one of
the greatest curiosities I had seene in Rome. In another part were
presses furnish'd with antiq armes, German clocks, perpetual motions,
watches, and curiosities of Indian workes. A very ancient picture of
Pope Eugenius ; a St. Bernard, and a head of marble found long since,
supposed to be a true portrait of our B: Saviour's face.
Hence we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and countryman of
ours, who had some intendency in an Hospital built on the Via Tri-
umphalis, called Christ's Hospital, wcb he shew'd us. The Infirmitory
where the sick lay was paved with various colour'd marbles, and the

ROME. 1645] 133
walls hung wth noble pieces ; the beds are very faire ; in the middle is
a stately cupola, under wch is an altar decked wth divers marble statues,
all in sight of the sick, who may both see and heare masse as they lye
in their beds. The organs, are very fine, and frequently play'd on to
recreate the people in paine. To this joyns an apartiment destined for
ye orphans ; and there is a schoole : the children weare blew like ours
in London at an Hospital of the same appellation. Here are 40 nurses
who give suck to such children as are accidentaly found expos'd and
abandon'd. In another quarter are children of bigger growth, 450 in
number, who are taught letters. In another, 500girles under the tuition
of divers religious matrons, in a Monastry, as it were, by itselfe. I
was assur'd there were at least 2000 more maintain'd in other places. I
think one appartiment had in it neere 1000 beds ; these are in a very
long rome having an inner passage for those who attend, with as much
care, sweetenesse, and conveniency as can be imagin'd, the Italians
being generaly very neate. Under the portico the sick may walke
out and take ye ayre. Opposite to this are other chambers for such as
are sick of maladies of a more rare and difficult cure, and they have
romes apart. At yc end of the long corridore is an apothecary's shop,
fair and very well stor'd ; neere which are chambers for- persons of
better quality who are yet necessitous. Whatever ye poore bring is at
their coming in deliver'd to a treasurer, who makes an inventory and
is accoumptable to them or their representatives if they dye. To this
building joynes the house of the com'endator, who wtb his officers at
tending the sick, make up 90 persons; besides a convent and an ample
church for the friers and priests who daily attend. The church is ex-
treamely neate, and the sacristia very rich. Indeede 'tis altogether one
of the most pious and worthy foundations I ever saw : nor is the benefit
small wch diuers young physitians and chirurgeons reape by the expe
rience they learne here amongst the sick, to whom those students have
free accesse. Hence we ascended a very steepe hill neere ye Port St.
Pancratio to yl stately fountaine call'd Acqua Paula, being the aquee-
duct wcb Augustus had brought to Rome, now re-edified by Paulus V. ;
a rare piece of architecture, and which serves the City after a journey
of 35 miles, here pouring itselfe into divers ample lavors, out of ye

134 [ITALY. 1645.
mouthes of swans and dragons, the armes of this Pope. Situate on a
very lugh mount, it makes a most glorious shew to ye Citty, especialy
when the sun darts on ye waters as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on
it are :
Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquaeductus ab Augusto Caesare
extructos, aevi longinqua vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem formam restituit
anno salutis M.D. CIX. Pont. V.
And towards the feilds,
Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi tem-
poris injuria pene diruto, sublimiorem 
[One or more leaves are here wanting in Mr. Evelyn's MS. descriptive of
other partsof Rome, and of his leaving the City.]
Thence to Veletri, a towne heretofore of the Volsci, where is a
publiq and faire statue of P. Urban VIII. in brasse, and a stately foun
taine in the streete. Here we lay, and drank excellent wine.
Jan: 28. We dined at Sermoneta, descending all this morning downe
a stony mountaine, unpleasant, yet full of olive-trees ; and anon passe
a towre built on a rock, kept by a small guard against ye Banditti who
infest these parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord Ban
bury and his company found to their cost a little before. To this guard
we gave some mony, and so were suffer'd to passe, wcbwas still on ye
Appian to the Tres Tabernae (whither the breathren came from Rome
to meete St. Paule, Acts, c. 28) ; the ruines whereof are yet very faire,
resembling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as may be
judged by the vast stones and fairenesse of yc arched worke. The
country invironing this passage is hilly, but rich ; on the right hand
stretches an ample playne, being the Pomptini Campi. We repos'd
this night at Piperno, in the Post-house without the towne; and here
I was extreamely troubled with a sore hand from a mischance at Rome,
wcb now began to fester, upon my base, unlucky, stiff-necked, trotting,
carrion mule, which are in the world the most wretched beasts. In
this towne was ye Poet Virgil's Camilla borne.
The day following we were faine to hire a strong convey of about 30
firelocks to guard us through the Cork -woods (much infested wth yc
Banditti) as far as Nova Fossa, where was ye Appii Forum, and now
stands a Church with a greate Monastry, the place where Thomas

ITALY. 1645] 135
Aquinas both studied and lyes buried. Here we all alighted, arid were
most courteously received by the Monks, who shew'd us many reliques
of their learned Saint, and at the high altar the print forsooth of the
mule's hoofe wch he caused to kneele before the Host. The Church is
old, built after the Gotiq manner ; but the place is very agreeably me
lancholy. After this, pursuing the same noble [Appian] way (wcb we
had before left a little) we found it to stretch from Capua to Rome
itselfe, and afterwards as far as Brundusium. It was built by that
famous Consul, 25 foote broad, every 12 foote something ascending for
the ease and firmer footing of horse and man; both the sides are also
a little rais'd for those who travell on foote. The whole is paved with
a kind of beach-stone, and, as I sayd, ever and anon adorn'd with some
old ruine, sepulcher, or broken statue. In one of these monuments
Pancirollus tells us that in the time of Paul III. there was found the «
body of a young lady swimming in a kind of bath of precious oyle or
liquor, fresh and entire as if she had been living, neither her face disco-
lour'd, nor her haire disorder'd ; at her feete burnt a lamp which sud-
dainely expir'd at ye opening of the vault ; having flam'd, as was com
puted, now 1500 yeares, by the conjecture that she was Tulliola the
daughter of Cicero whose body was thus found, and as the inscription
testified. We din'd this day at Terracina, heretofore ye famous Anxur,
wcb stands upon a very eminent promontory, the Cercean by name.
Whilst meate was preparing I went up into yc town, and view'd the
fayre remainders of Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a Church,
adorn'd with most stately columns ; its architecture has been excellent,
as may be deduc'd from the goodly cornices, mouldings, and huge
white marbles of which 'tis built. Before the portico stands a pillar
thus inscrib'd :
Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta
Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco.
for it seemes Theodoric drayn'd their marches.
On another more ancient :
Imp. Csesar Divi Nervae Filius Nerva Trajanus Aug. Germanicus Dacicus.
Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xviii. lmp.vi. Cos. v. p.p. xviii. Silices sua pecunia.
stravit.

136 [ITALY. 1645-
Meaning doubtlesse some part of the Via Appia. Then,
Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Proouratori et Praefect. Classis — Ti. Ju
lius T. Fab. optatus 11 vir.
Here is likewise a Columna Miliaria with something engraven on it,
but I could not stay to consider it. Coming down againe I went to
wards the sea side to contemplate that stupendious strange rock and
promontory, cleft by hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within
this is the Cercean Cave, which I went into a good way ; it makes a
dreadfull noyse by reason of the roaring and impetuous waves continualy
assaulting the beach, and that in an unusual manner. At the top at au
excessive height stands an old and very greate castle. We ariv'd this
night at Fundi, a most dangerous passage for robbing; and so we pass'd
by Galba's Villa, and anon entred the kingdome of Naples, where
at the gate this epigraph saluted us : " Hospes hie sunt fines Regni
Neopolitani ; si amicus advenis, pacate omnia invenies, et malis moribus
pulsis, bonas leges." The Via Appia is here a noble prospect ; having
before consider'd how it was carried through vast mountaines of rocks
for many miles, by most stupendious labour : here it is infinitely
pleasant, beset w,b sepulchres and antiquities, full of sweete shrubbs
in the invironing hedges. At Fundi we had oranges and citrons for
nothing, the trees growing in every corner, charged with fruite.
29. We descried Mount Caecubus, famous for the generous wine it
heretofore produe'd, and so rid onward the Appian Way, beset with
myrtils, lentiscus, bayes, pomegranads, and whole groves of orange-
trees and most delicious shrubbs, till we came to Formiana, where they
shew'd us Cicero's Tomb standing in an olive grove, now a rude heap
of stones, without forme or beauty ; for here that incomparable Orator
was murther'd. I shall never forget how exceedingly I was delighted
with the sweetenesse of this passage, the sepulcher mixed amongst all
sorts of verdure ; besides being now come within sight of the noble
Citty Cajeta, wch gives a surprizing prospect along the Tyrrhen Sea
in manner of a Theater : and here we beheld that strangely cleft rock,
a frightfull spectacle, wch they say happen'd upon the passion of our
Bl. Saviour ; but the hast of ov Procaccio did not suffer us to dwell so
long on these objects, and the many antiquities of this towne, as we
desired.

NAPLES. 1645-] 137
At Formia we saw Cicero's grott, dining at Mola, and passing Se-
nuessa, Garigliano (once the Citty Minterna), and beheld the ruines of
that vast amphitheatre and aquaeduct yet standing ; the river Liris, wcb
bounded the old Latium, Falernus, or Mons Massicus, celebrated for
its wine, now named Garo ; and this night we lodged at a little village
called Agatha, in the Falernian Feilds neere to Aurunca and Sessa.
The next day, having passed [the river] Vulturnus, we come by the
Torre di Francolesse, where Hannibal in danger from Fabius Maximus
escaped by debauching his enemyes ; and so at last we enter'd the most
pleasant plaines of Campania, now call'd Terra di Lavoro ; in very truth,
I thinke, the most fertile spot that ever the sun shone upon. Here we saw 1
the slender ruines of the once mighty Capua, contending at once both
with Rome and Carthage, for splendor and empire, now nothing but a
heape of rubbish, except shewing some vestige of its former magnificence
in pieces of temples, arches, theaters, columns, ports, vaults, colossas,
&c. confounded together by the barbarous Goths and Longobards ;
there is however a new Citty, neerer to ye road by two miles, fairely
rays'd out of these heapes. The passage from this towne to Naples
(wcb is about 10 or 12 English post miles,) is as straight as a line, of
great breadth, fuller of travellers than I remember any of our greatest
and most frequented roads neere London ; but what is extreamely
pleasing, is the great fertility of the feilds, planted with fruit-trees,
whose boles are serpented with excellent vines, and they so exuberant
that 'tis commonly reported one vine will loade 5 mules with its grapes.
What adds much to the pleasure of the sight is that the vines, climbing
to the summit of the trees, reach in festoons and fruitages from one tree
to another, planted at exact distances, forming a more delightful pic
ture than painting can describe.- Here growi rice, canes for suggar,
olives, pomegranads, mulberrys, cittrons, oranges, figgs, and other
sorts of rare fruits. About the middle of the way is the towne Aversa,
whither came 3 or 4 coaches to meete our lady-travellers, of whom we
now tooke leave, having ben very merry by the way with them and the
capitano their gallant.
31 Jan. About noone we enter'd the Citty of Naples, alighting at
the 3 Kings, where we found the most plentifull fare all the tyme we
vol. 1. T

138 [NAPLES. 1645-
were in Naples. Provisions are wonderfully cheape ; 'we seldom sat
downe to fewer than 18 or 20 dishes of exquisite meate and fruites.
The morrow after or arival, in the afternoone, we hired a coach to
carry us about the towne. First we went to the Castle of St. Elmo,
built on a very high rock, whence we had an intire prospect of ye whole
Citty, which lyes in shape of a theatre upon the sea brinke, with all
the circumjacent islands, as far as Caprese, famous for the debauched
recesses of Tiberius. This Fort is the bridle of the whole Citty, and
was well stor'd and garrison'd with native Spanyards. The strangenesse
of the precipice and rarenesse of the prospect of so many magnificent
and stately Palaces, Churches, and Monasteries, wtb the Arsenall, the
Mole, and Mount Vesuvius in the distance, all in full com'and of ye
eye, make it one of the richest landskips in the world.
Hence we descended to another strong Castle, cal'd II Castello
Nuovo, which protects the shore, but they would by no intreaty per
mit us to go in ; the outward defence seemes to consist but in 4 towrs,
very high, and an exceeding deepe graft with thick walls. Opposite
to this is the Toure of St. Vincent, wcb is also very strong.
Then we went to the very noble Palace of the Viceroy, partly old
and part of a newer work, but we did not stay long here. Towards y*
evening we tooke the ayre upon the Mole, which is a streete on the
rampart or banke rays'd in ye Sea for security of their gallys in port,
built as that of Genoa. Here I observed a rich fountaine in the middle
of the Piazza, and adorn'd with divers rare statues of copper repre
senting the Sirens or Deities of the Parthenope, spouting large streames
of water into an ample shell, all of cast metall, and of great cost ; this
stands at the entrance of ye Mole, where wee mett many of the Nobility
both on horseback and in their coaches to take the fresco from the Sea,
as the manner is, it being in the most advantageous quarter for good
ayre, delight, and prospect. Here we saw divers goodly horses who
handsomly become their riders, the Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole
is about 500 paces in length, and paved with a square hewn stone.
From the Mole we ascend to a Church, of greate antiquity, formerly
sacred to Castor and Pollux, as the Greeke letters carv'd on the archi
trave and the busts of their two statues testify. It is now converted
into a stately Oratory by the Theatines.

NAPLES. 1645.] 139
The Cathedrall is a most magnificent pile, and, except St. Peter's
in Rome, Naples exceeds all Cittys for stately Churches and Monas
teries. We were told that this day the blood of St. Genuarius and his
head should be expos'd, and so we found it, but obtain'd not to see the
miracle of the boiling of this bloody as was told us. The next we went
to see was St. Peter's, richly adorned, the Chapel especialy, where that
Apostle sayd masse, as is testified on the walle.
After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they shew'd us the
Crucifix that is reported to have sayd these words to St. Thomas, " Bene
de me scripsisti Thoma." Hence to the Padri Olivetani, famous for
the monument of the learned Alexand. ab Alexandro.
We went the next day to visite the Church of _Sta Maria Maggiore,
where we spent much tyme in surveying the Chapell of Joh. Jov. Pon-
tanus, and in it the severall and excellent sentences and epitaphs on
himselfe, wife, children, and friends, full of rare witt and worthy of
recording as we find them in severall writers. In the same Chapell is
shew'd an arme of Titus Livius wtb this epigraph ; "Titi Livij brachium
quod Anton. Panormita a Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus
multos post annos hoc in loco ponendum curavit."
Climbing a steepe hill we came to the Monastery and Church of the
Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly prospect towards the Sea
and Citty, the one full of gallys and ships, the other of stately palaces,
churches, monasteries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows,
Mount Vesuvius smoaking, the Promontory of Minerva and Misenum,
Capreae, Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipe, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtlesse
one of the most divertisant and considerable vistas in ye world. The
Church is most elegantly built ; the very pavements of the common
cloyster being all layd wtb variously polish'd marbles richly figur'd.
They shew'd us a massie crosse of silver much celebrated for the work
manship and carving, and sayd to have been 14 yeares in perfecting.
The Quire also is of rare arte ; but above all to be admir'd is the yet
unfinish'd Church of the Jesuites, certainly if accomplished not to be
equal'd in Europe. Hence we pass'd by the Palazzo Caraffi, full of
ancient and very noble statues : also the Palace of the Ursini. The
next day we did little but visite some friends, English merchants resi-

140 [NAPLES. 1645.
dent for their negotiation; onely this morning at the Viceroy's Cava-
lerizzo I saw the noblest horses that I had ever beheld, one of his sonns
riding the menage with that addresse and dexterity as I had never seene
any thing approch it.
4 Feb. We were invited to the collection of exotic rarities in the
Museum Of Ferdinando Imperati, a Neapolitan nobleman, and one of
the most observable palaces in the Citty, the repository of incom
parable rarities. Amongst the naturall Herbals most remarkable was
the Byssus marina and Pinna marina ; the male and female Came-
lion ; an Onacratulus ; an extraordinary greate Crocodile ; some of the
Orcades Anates, held here for a great rarity; likewise a Salamander;
the male and female Manucodiata, the male having an hollow in the
back, in wcb 'tis reported the female both layes and hatches her egg;
the Mandragoras of both sexes ; Papyrus made of severall reedes, and
some of silke; tables of the rinds of trees written wtb Japoniq charac
ters ; another of the branches of palme ; many Indian fruites ; a
chrystal that had a quantity of uncongealed water within its cavity ; a
petrified fisher's net; divers sorts of Tarantulas, being a monstrous
spider with lark-like clawes, and somewhat bigger.
5 Feb. The next day we beheld the Vice-king's procession, wcb was
very splendid for the reliques, banners, and musiq, which accompanied
the B. Sacrament. The ceremony tooke up most of the morning.
6 Feb. We went by coach to take the ayre, and see yfc diversions
or rather maddnesse of the Carnival ; the courtisans (who swarme in
this Citty to the number, as we are told, of 30,000, registred and pay
ing a tax to ye State) flinging eggs of sweete water into our coach as
we passed by the houses and windows. Indeed the towne is so pester'd
with these cattell, that there needes no small mortification to preserve
from their enchantment, whilst they display all their naturall and ar-
tificiall beauty, play, sing, feigne compliment, and by a thousand
studied devices seeke to inveigle foolish young men.
7- The next day being Saturday we went 4 miles out of towne on
mules to see that famous Volcano Mount Vesuvius. Here we passe a
faire fountaine cal'd Labulla, wch continually boyles, suppos'd to pro
ceed from Vesuvius, and thence over a river and bridg, where on a

VESUVIUS. 1645.] 141
large upright stone is engraven a notable inscription relative to the
memorable eruption in 1630*.
Approching the hill as we were able with our mules, we alighted
crawling up the rest of the proclivity with great difficulty, now wtb our
feete, now with our hands, not without many untoward slipps which did
much bruise us on the various colour'd cinders wtb which the whole
mountaine is cover'd, some like pitch, others full of perfect brimstone,
others metaliq, interspers'd with innumerable pumices (of all wcb I
made a collection), we at the last gain'd the sum'it of an excessive
altitude ; turning or faces towards Naples, it presents one of the good
liest prospects in the world ; all the Baiae, Cuma, Elyssian Fields, Ca-
preae, Ischia, Prochita, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly Citty, with
a great portion of the Tyrrhan Sea, offering themselves to your view
at once, and at so agreeable a distance, as nothing can be more de-
lightfull. The mountaine consists of a double top, the one pointed
very sharp, and com'only appearing above any clouds, the other blunt.
Here as we approch'd we met many large gaping clefts and chasms,
out of which issued such sulphureous blasts and smoke that we durst
not stand long neere them. Having gain'd the very summit, I layd
myself downe to looke over and into that most frightfull and terrible
vorago, a stupendious pit of neere three miles in circuit and halfe a mile
in depth, by a perpendicular hollow cliffe (like that from the highest
part of Dover Castle), with now and then a craggy prominency
jetting out. The area at the bottom is plaine like an even'd floore,
which seemes to be made by the winds circling the ashes by its eddy
blasts. In the middle and center is a hill shaped like a greate browne
loafe, appearing to consist of sulphurous matter, continualy vomiting
a foggy exhalation, and ejecting huge stones with an impetuous noise
and roaring like the report of many musquets discharging. This horrid
Barathrum engaged our attention for some houres, both for the strang-
nesse of the spectacle and ye mention which the old histories make of
it, as one of the most stupendious curiosities in nature, and which made
the learned and inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect the causes,
* It may be seen at length in Wright's Travels, and in Misson's New Voyage to Italy, vol. I. p. 431 .

142 [Vesuvius. 1645,
and to loose it in too desperate an approch. It is likewise famous for
the stratagem of the rebell Spartacus, who did so much mischiefe to
the State, lurking amongst and protected by these horrid caverns, when
it was more accessible and lesse dangerous than now it is ; but espe
cialy notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in an° 1630, it
burst out beyond what it had ever don in the memory of history,
throwing out huge stones and fiery pumices in such quantity as not
onely inviron'd the whole mountaine, but totaly buried and overwhelm'd
divers townes and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more than an
hundred miles, and utterly devastating all those vineyards where for
merly grew the most incomparable Greco; when bursting thro' the
bowels of the earth it absorb'd the very Sea, and with its whirling
waters drew in divers gallyes and other vessells to their destruction, as
is faithfully recorded. We descended with more ease than we climb'd
up, thro' a deepe vallie of pure ashes, wcb at the late eruption was a
flowing river of mealted and burning brimstone, and so came to our
mules at the foote of the mountaine.
On Sunday we with our guide visited the so much celebrated Baiae
and natural rarities of the places adjacent. Here we enter the moun
taine Pausilipo, at the left hand of which they shew'd us Virgil's
sepulchre erected on a steepe rock, in forme of a small rotunda or
cupolated columne, but almost overgrowne with bushes and wild baye
trees. At the entrance is this inscription :
Stanisi Cencovius.
158Q.
Qui cineres ? Tumuli haec vestigia, conditur olim
Ille hoc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura, Duces.
Can. ReeMDLIIL*
After we were advanc'd into this noble and altogether wonderfull
crypt, consisting of a passage spacious enough for two coaches to go
* Such is the inscription, as copied by Mr. Evelyn ; but as its sense is not very clear, and as the
Diary contains' instances of incorrectness in transcribing, the Editor has thought it desirable to
subjoin the distich said by Keysler in his Travels, vol. II. p. 433, to be the only one in the whole
mausoleum : " Quae cineris tumulo haec vestigia ? conditur olim
Ille hoc qui cecinit, pascua, rura, duces."

NAPLES. 1645-] 143
on breast, cut thro' a rocky mountaine neere three quarters of a mile, (by
the ancient Cimmerii as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius,
who employ'd an hundred thousand men on it,) we came to the mid
way, where there is a well bor'd through the diameter of this vast moun
taine, which admitts the light into a pretty chapel, hewn out of the natu
ral rock, wherein hang divers lamps perpetualy burning. The way is
pav'd under foote, but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so exces
sively in this much frequented passage that we were forc'd at mid-day
to use a torch. At length we were deliver'd from the bowels of the
earth into one of the most delicious plaines in the world : the oranges,
lemons, pomegranads, and other fruites, blushing yet on the perpe
tualy greene trees ; for the summer is here eternal, caus'd by the natu
ral and adventitious heate of the earth, warm'd through the subterranean
fires, as was shewn us by our guide, who alighted, and cutting up a
turf wtb his knife, and delivering it to me, was so hot I was hardly able
to hold it in my hands. This mountaine is exceedingly fruitfull in
vines, and exotics grow readily. We now came to a lake of about two
miles in circumference, inviron'd with hills ; the water of it is fresh
and swete on the surface but salt at botome, some mineral salt con
jectured to be the cause, and 'tis reported of that profunditude in the
middle that it is botomelesse. The people call it Lago di Agnano
from the multitude of serpents which involved together about the
spring fall downe from the cliffy hills into it. It has no fish, nor
will any live in it. We tried the old experiment on a dog in the
Grotto del Cane, or Charon's Cave ; it is not above three or four
paces deepe, and about the height of a man, nor very broad. What
ever having life enters it presently expires. Of this we made tryal
with two doggs, one of which we bound to a short pole to guide him
the more directly into the further part of the den, where he was
no sooner enter'd, but without the least noyse, or so much as a
struggle, except that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue,
his eyes being fix'd ; we drew him out dead to all appearance, but
immediately plunging him into ye adjoyning lake, within lesse than
halfe an houre he recover'd, and swimming to shore ran away from
us. We tried the same on another dogg without the application of the

144 [NAPLES. 1645.
Water, and left him quite dead v The experiment has been made on
men, as on that poore creature whom Peter of Toledo caus'd to go in;
likewise on some Turkish slaves ; two souldiers, and other foole-hardy
persons, who all perished, and could never be recover'd by the water of
the lake as are doggs, for which many learned reasons have ben offer' d}
as Simon Majolus in his booke of the Canicular-dayes has mention'd,
eolloq. 15. And certainely the most likely isj the effect of those hot and
dry vapours which ascend out of the: earth and are condensed by the
ambient cold, as appeares by their converting into chrystaline drops on
ye top, whilst at the botome 'tis so excessively hott that a torch being
extinguished neere it, and lifted a little distance, was suddainely re
lighted. Neere to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain, of
the nature of sudatories, in certaine chambers partition 'd with stone for
the sick to sweate in, the vapours here being exceedingly hot, and of
admirable successe in the goute and other cold distempers of the nerves.
Hence we climb'd up an hill, the very highway iu several pl&ces'even
smoaking wtb heate like a fournace. The mountaines were by the
Greekes called Leucoyei, and the fields Phlaegrean. Hercules here van
quished the Gyants assisted with lightning. We now came tothe-Court
of Vulcan, consisting of a valley neere a quarter of a mile in breadth,
the margen't inviron'd with steepe cliffs, out of whose sides and foote
break forth fire and smoke in aboundance, making a noyse like a tem
pest of water, and sometimes discharging in lowd reports like so many
guns. The heate of this place is wonderfull, the earth itselfe being
almost unsufferable, * and which the subterranean fires have made so
hollow, by having wasted the matter for so many yeares, that it sounds
like a drum to those who walke upon it ; and the water thus struggling
with those fires bubbles and spoutes aloft into the ayre. The mouthes
of these spiracles are bestrew'd with variously- colour'd cinders, which
rise wtb the vapour, as do many colour'd stones, according to the quality
of the combustible matter, insomuch as 'tis no little adventure to
approch them; they are however daily frequented both by sick and well,
the former receiving the fumes have been recover'd of diseases esteem'd
incurable. Here we found a greate deal of sulphure made, which they
refine in certaine houses neere the place, casting it into canes, to a very

NAPLES. 1645.J 145
greate value. Neere this we were shew'd an hill of alume, where is one
of the best mineries, yielding a considerable revenue. Some flowres of
brasse are found here; but I could not but smile at those who perswade
themselves that here are the Gates of Purgatory, (for which it may be
they have erected very neere it a Convent and named it St. Januarius,)
reporting to have often heard screeches and horrible lamentations pro
ceeding from these caverns and vulcanos; with other legends of birds
that are never seene save on Sundayes, which cast themselves into the
lake at night, appearing no more all yfc weeke after.
We now approch'd the ruines of a very stately Temple or Theater of
172 foote in length and about 80 in breadth, throwne downe by an
earthquake not long since. ; it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under
the ground are many strange meanders, from wch it is nam'd the
Labyrinth ; this place is so haunted with batts that their perpetual flut
tering endanger'd the putting out our liukes.
Hence we passed againe those boiling and smoking hills till we came
to Puzzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli, the landing-place of St. Paule
when he came into Italy after the tempest described in the Acts of
the Apostles. Here we made a good dinner, and bought divers me-
dailes and other curiosities, antiquities, &c. of the country people, who
daily find such things amongst the very old ruines of those places. This
Towne was formerly a Greeke Colonie, built by the Samians, a reason
able commodious Port, and full of observable antiquities. We • saw
the ruines of Neptune's Temple, to whom this place was sacred, and
neere it the stately palace and gardens of Peter de Toledo, formerly
mentioned. Afterwards we visited that admirably built Temple of
Augustus, seeming to have ben hewn out of an intire rock, tho' in-
deede consisting of several square stones. The inscription remaines
thus, " L. Calphurnius L. E. Templum Augusto cum ornamentis
D. D." and under it ; " L. Coccejus L, C. Postumi L. Auctus Archi-
tectus." It is now converted into a Church, in which they shew'd us
huge bones, wcb they affirme to have ben of some gyant.
We went to see the ruines of the old Haven, so compact with that
bituminous sand in which the materials are layd, as the like is hardly
to be found, though all this has not ben sufficient to protect it from the
VOL. I. U

146 [NAPLES. 1645.
fatal concussions of several earthquakes (frequent here) which have
almost demolish'd it, 13 vast piles of marble onely remaining, a stu
pendous worke in the bosome of Neptune ! To this joynes the bridg of
Caligula, by which (having now embarqu'd ourselves) we sail'd to the
pleasant Baiae, almost 4 miles in length, all which way that prowd
Emperor would passe in triumph. Here we row'd along towards a
villa of the orator Cicero's, where we were shew'd the ruines of his
Academy, and at the foote of a rock his Bathes, the waters recipro
cating their tides wth the neighbouring sea. Hard at hand rises Mount
Gaurus, being, as I conceiv'd, nothing save an heape of pumices,
which here floate in aboundanee on the sea, exhausted of all inflam
mable matter by the fire, wcb renders them light and porous, so as the
beds of niter wcb lye deepe under them having taken fire dos easily eject
them. They dig much for fancied treasure said to be conceil'd about
this place. From hence we coasted neere the ruines of Portus Julius,
where we might see divers stately palaces y* had ben swallow'd up by
the sea after earthquakes. Coming to shore we passe by the Lucrine
Lake, so famous heretofore for its delicious oysters, now producing few
or none, being divided from ye sea by a banke of incredible labour, the
suppos'd worke of Hercules ; 'tis now halfe chock'd upw4- rubbish, and
by part of the new mountaine, which rose partly out of it, and partly
out of the sea, and that in the space of one night and a day, to neere
the altitude of a mile, on the 29th Sept 1538, after many terrible
earthquakes wcb ruined divers places thereabout, when at midnight the
sea retiring neere 200 paces, and yawning on yc sudaine, it continued
to vomit forth flames and fiery stones in such quantity as produced this
whole mountaine by their fall, making the inhabitants of Puzzole to
leave their habitations, supposing the end of the world had ben come.
From the left part ' of this we walked to the Lake Avernus, of a
round forme, and totaly inviron'd wth mountaines. This lake was
fain'd by the Poete for the gates of Hell, by wcb iEneas made his
descent, and where they sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The
waters are of a remarkable blaek colour, but I tasted of them without
danger; hence they faigne y* the river Styx has its sourse. At one
side stand the handsome ruines of a Temple dedicated to Apollo, or

NAPLES. 1645-] 147
rather Pluto, but 'tis controverted* Opposite to this, having new
lighted our torches, we enter a vast cave, in which having gon about
two hundred paces, we passe a narrow entry, which lead us into a roome
of about 10 paces long, proportionable broad and high; the side walls
and roofe retaine still the golden Mosaiq, though now exceedingly
decay'd by time. Here is a short cell, or rather niche, cut out of yu
solid rock, somewhat resembling a couch, in which they report that
the Sibylla lay and utter'd her oracles ; but is supposed by most to have
been a bath onely. This subterranean grott leads quite through to
Cuma, but is in some places obstructed by the earth wch has sunk in,
so as we were constrain'd back againe &to creep on our bellys before
we came to the light, 'Tis reported Nero had once resolved to cut a
channel for two greate gallys y* should have extended to Ostia, an 150
miles distant. The people now call it Licola.
From hence we ascended to y* most ancient Citty of Italy, the re
nowned Cuma/ built by ye Grecians. It stands on a Very eminent pro
montory, but is now an heape of ruines. A little below stands the
Arco Felice, heretofore part of Apollo's Temple, with the foundations
of divers goodly buildings ; amongst whose heapes are frequently found
statues and other antiquities, by such as dig for them. Neere this is
the -Lake Acherutia and Acheron. Returning to the shore we came
to the Bagnie de Tritoli and Diana, wch are onely long narrow pas
sages cut through the maine rock, where the vapours ascend so hot
that entring wth the body erect you will even faint wtb excessive perspi
ration, but stooping lower as suddaine a cold surprizes. These suda
tories are much in request for many infirmityes. Now we enter'd the
haven of the Baiae, where once stood that famous Towne, so call'd
from the Companion of Ulysses here buried ; not without greate reason
celebrated for one of the most delicious places that the sunn shines on,
according to that of Horace :
" Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis praelucet amoenis."
Though as to the stately fabrics there now remaine little save the
ruines, whereof the most intire is that of Diana's Temple, and another
of Venus. Here were those famous pooles of lampreys that would

148 [NAPLES. 1645-
come to hand when call'd by name, as Martial tells us. On the
sum'ite of the rock stands a strong Castle garison'd to protect the shore
from Turkish Pyrates. It was once the retyring place of Julius Caesar.
Passing by ye- shore againe we entered Bauli, observable from the
monstrous murther of Nero com'itted ori his mother Agrippina. Her
sepulchre was yet . shew'd us in the rock, wch we enter'd, being cover'd
with sundry heads and figures of beasts. We saw there the rootes of a
tree turn'd into stone, and are continualy dropping.
Thus having view'd the foundations of the old Cimeria, the palaces
of Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other, villas and antiquities,
we proceeded towards the Promontory of Misenus, renown'd for yfc
sepulchre of iEneas's Trumpeter. 'Twas once a greate Citty, now
hardly a ruine, sayd to have ben built from this place to the Promon
tory of Minerva, 50 miles distant, now discontinu'd and demolished
by the frequent earthquakes. Here was the villa of Caius Marius,
where Tiberius Caesar died ; and here runs the Aquaeduct, thought to
be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, heretofore nobly arched ,w^h
marble, as the ruines testifie. Hence we walked to those receptacles
ofj water cal'd Piscina Mirabilis, being a vault of 500 feet longj and
22 in breadth, the roofe prop'd up with 4 rankes of square pillars,
12. in a row ; the walls are brick plaster'd over wth such a composi
tion as for strength and politure resembles white marble. 'Tis con-
ceiv'd to have hen built by Nero, as a conservatory for fresh water ;
as were also the Centi Camerelli, into which we were next led. All
these Crypta being now almost sunke into yc earth, shew yet then?
former amplitude and magnificence.
Returning towards the Baiae we againe passe the Elyssian Fields,
so , celebrated, by t;he Poetes, nor unworthily, for their situation and
verdure, being full of myrtils and sweete shrubs, and having a most
delightful prospect towards the Tyrrhen Sea. Upon the verge of these
remaine the ruines of the Mercatp di Sabato, formerly a Circus; over
the arches stand divers urnes full of Roman ashes.
Having well satisfied our curiosity : among these Antiquities, we
retir'd to our felucca, wch row'd us back againe towards PuzzqIo,
at the very place of St. Paule's landing; Keeping along the, shore

NAPLES. 1645-] 149
they shew'd us a plaice where the sea-water and sands did exceedingly
boyle. Thence to ye Island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph ; and thus
We leave the Baiae, so renowned for the sweete retirements of the most
opulent and voluptuous Romans. They certainly were places of uncom
mon amcenitie, as their yet tempting site and other circumstances of
natural curiosities easily invite me to believe, since there is not in'the
world so many stupendious rarities to be met with as in the circle of a
few miles which inviron these blissfull aboades.
8 Feb. We went to see the Arsenal, well furnish'd with gallies
and other vessells. The Citty is crowded with inhabitants, gentlemen
and merchants. The Government is held of the Pope by an annual
tribute of 40,000 ducats and a white Genet ; but the Spanyard trusts
more to the power of those his natural subjects there ; Apulia and
Calabria yielding him neere 4 millions of crownes yearely to maintaine
it. The country is divided into 13 Provinces, 20 Archbishops, and 107
Bishops. The estates of the Nobility, in default of the male line, re
verting to the King. Besides the Vice -Roy there is amongst the Chiefe
Magistrates an High Constable, Admiral, Chiefe Justice, Greate Cham-
berlaine, and Chancelor, with a Secretary; these being prodigiously
avaricious, do wonderfully inrich themselves out of the miserable
people's labour, silks, manna, sugar, oyle, wine, rice, sulphur, and
alome, for wtb all these riches is this delicious country blest. The
manna falls at certain seasons on the adjoyning hills in formeof a thick
deuw. The very Winter here is a Summer, ever fruitefull, so that in
the middle of February we had melons, cheries, abricots, and many
other sorts of fruite.
The building of the Citty is for the size the most magnificent of any
in Europe, the streetes exceeding large, well paved, having' many
vaults and conveyances under them for" the sullage, wcb renders them
very sweete and cleane even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth
more than 3000 Churches and Monasteries, and those the best built
and adorn'd' of any in Italy. They greately affect the Spanish gravity
in their habite ; delight in good horses ; the streetes are full of gallants
on horseback, in coaches and sedans, from hence brought first into
England by Sir Sanders Duncornb.. The women are generaly well.

150 [NAPLES. 1645-
featur'd, but excessively libidinous. The country-people so jovial and
addicted to musick, that the very husbandmen almost universary play on
the guitarr, singing and composing songs in prayse of their sweetehearts,
and wil commonly goe to the field wtb their fiddle; they are merry,
witty, and genial, all weh I much attribute to the excellent quality of
the ayre. They have a deadly hatred to the French, so that some of our
company were flouted at for wearing red cloakes, as the mode then Was.
This I made the non ultra of my travels, sufficiently sated with
rolling up and downe, and resolving within myselfe to be no longer
an individuum vagum if ever I got home againe, since from the report
of divers experienc'd and curious persons I had ben assur'd there
was little more to be seene in the rest of the civil world, after Italy,
France, Flanders, and the Low Country, but plaine and prodigious
barbarisme. Thus about the 7th of Feb. we sat out on our return to Rome by the
same way we came, not daring to adventure by Sea, as1 some oPoUr
company were inclin'd to do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering on
that coast ; nor made we any stay save at Albano, to view the celebrated
place and sepulchre of the famous Duelists who decided the ancient
quarrell betweene their imperious neighbours wtb the loss of their lives.
These brothers, the Horatij and Curiatij, lye buried neere the high
way, Under two ancient pyramids of stone, now somewhat decay'd and
overgrOwne with rubbish. We tooke the opportunity of tasting the
wine here, which is famous.
Being arived at Rome on the 13th Feb. we were againe invited to
Sign^. Angeloni's study *, where wtb greater leysure we survey'd the
rarities, as his cabinet and medaills especialy, esteem'd one of the best
collections of them in Europe. He also shew'd us two antiq lamps,
one of them dedicated to Palas, the other Laribus Sacru' , as appeared
by their inscriptions ; some old Roman rings and keyes ; the iEgyptian
Isis cast in yron ; sundry rare bass-relievos ; good pieces of paynting,
principally the Christ of Corregio, wth this painter's owne face ad
mirably don by himselfe ; divers of both ye Bassarlos ; a greate number
* See p. 99.

ROME. 1645-] 151
of pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs; an infinity of naturall
rarities, dry'd animals, Indian habits and weapons, shells, &;c. ; divers
very antiq statues of brasse ; some lamps of so fine an earth , that they
resembled cornelians for transparency and colour ; hinges of Corinthian
brasse, and one greate nayle of the same mettal found in the ruines of
Nero's golden house..
In the afteraoone we ferried over to Transtevere, to the Palace of
G.ichi *, to review the works of Raphael : and returning by St. Angelo,
we saw the Castle as far as was permitted, and on the other side con
sidered those admirable pilasters suppos'd to be of the foundation of
the Pons Sublicius, over which Hor. Codes pass'd ; here ankor 3 or 4
water-mills invented by Belizarius : and thence had another sight of
the Farnesi's gardens f, and of the tarrace where is that admirable
paynting of Raphael, being a. Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought
h fresca, preserv'd in shutters of wainscott, as well it merites, being
certainely one of the most wonderful pieces of worke in the world.
14 Feb. I went to Sta Cecilia, a church built and endow'd by
Card1. Sfrondaeti, ,, who has erected a stately altar, neere the body of
this martyr, not long before found in a vesture of silk girt about, a
veile on her head, and the bloody scarrs of 3 wounds on the neck; the
body is now in a silver chest, wtb her statue over it in snow-white
marble. Other Saints lie here decorated with splendid ornaments,
lamps, and incensories of greate cost. A little farther they shew us
the Bathe of St. Cecilia, to wcb joynes a Convent of Friers, where is the
picture of the Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns of the Portico
taken from the Bathes of Septimius Severus.
15 Feb. Mr. Henshaw and I walked by the Tyber and visited the
Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew's), formerly cut in the shape
of a ship, and wharfed with marble, in which a lofty obelisq repre
sented the mast. In the Church of St. Bartholomew is the body of
the Apostle. Here are the ruines of the Temple of iEsculapius, now
converted into a stately Hospital and a pretty Convent. Opposite to it
is the Convent and Church of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing
* See p. 123. f Seep. 91.

152 [rome. 1645-
remarkable save an old broken altar. Here was the Temple of Fortuna
Virilis. Hence we went to a cupola, now a Church, formerly dedi
cated to the Sun. Opposite to it Sta Maria Schola Graeca, where for
merly that tongue was taught, said to be the second Church dedicated
in Rome to the Bl. Virgin, bearing also the title of a Cardinalat.
Behind this stands the greate altar of Hercules, much demolished..
Neere this, being at the foote of Mount Aventine, are the Pope's salt-
houses. Ascending the hill we came to St. Sabina, an ancient fabric,
formerly sacred to Diana; there in a Chapel is an admirable picture,
the work of Livia Fontana, set about with columns of alabaster, and in
the middle of the Church is a stone, cast as they report, by the Devil
at St. Dominic whilst he was at masse. Hence we travelled towards
an heape of rubbish called the Marmorata on the bank of the Tyber, a
magazine of stones, and neere which formerly stood a triumphal arch
in honor of Horatius vanquishing the Tuscans. The ruines of the
bridg yet appeare.
We were now got to Mons Testaeceus, an heape of potshards almost
200 foote high, thought to haye ben amassed and thrown there by
the subjects of the Commonwealth bringing their tribute in earthen
vessells, others (more probably) that it was a quarter of the towne
where potters lived ; at the sum'it Rome affords a noble prospect.
Before it is a spacious greene called the Hippodrom, where Olympic
games were celebrated, and the people muster'd, as in our London
Artillerie-ground. Going hence to the old wall of the Citty, we much
admir'd the pyramid or tomb of C. Cestius, of white marble, one of
the most ancient intire monuments, inserted in the wall, with this
inscription :
" C. Cestius L. F. Pob. Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr. pi. VII. Vir.
Epulonum." And a little beneath :
" Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti P. F.
Cla. Melae Heredis et Pothi L."
At the left hand is the Port of St. Paule, once Tergemina, out of
which the 3 Horatii pass'd to encounter the Curiatii of Albano.
Hence bending homewards by St. Saba, by Antoninus's Bathes (which

ROME. 1.645.] 153
we enter'd) is the marble Sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of
me walls and stately ruines shew the enormous magnitude of these
Bathes. Passing by a corner of the Circus Maximus, 'we view'd the
place where stood the Septizonium, demolished by Sixtus V. for feare
of its falling. Going by M.'Caelius, we beheld the devotions of St.
Maria in Navicula, so nam'd from a ship carv'd out in white marble
standing oh a pedestal before it, suppos'd to be the vowe of one escaped
from shipwreck. It has a glorious front to the streete. Adjoining to
this are the Horti Mathaei, which only of all the places about ye Citty
I omitted visiting, tho' I was told inferiour to no garden in Rome for
statues, ancient monuments, aviaries, fountaines, groves, and especialy
a noble obelisq, and maintain'd in beauty at the expense of 6000
'crownes yearely, which if not expended to keepe up its beauty' forfeits
the possession of a greater revenue to another family ; so curious are
they in their villas and places of pleasure, even to excesse.
The next day we went to the once famous Circus Caracalla, in the
midst of which there now lay prostrate one of the most stately and
ancient Obelisks, full of ^Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was broken into
4 pieces when o'rethrowne by the Barbarians, and would have ben pur-
chas'd and transported into England by the magnificent Thomas Earle
of Arundel, could it have ben well removed to the sea. This is since
set together and placed on the stupenduous artificial rock made by
Innocent X. and serving for a fountaine in Piazza Navona, the worke of
Bernini, the Pope's Architect. Neere this is the Sepulchre of Mefellus,
of massy stone, pretty entire, now cal'd Capo di Bove. Hence to a
small Oratorie nam'd Domine quo vadis, where the tradition is, that
our B. Saviour met St. Peter as he fled, and turn'd him back againe.
St. Sebastians was the next, a meane structure (the faciata excepted)
but is venerable especialy for the reliques and grotts in wcb lie the ashes
of many holy men. Here is kept the pontifical chaire sprinkled wtb the
blood of Pope Stephen, to.w°b greate devotion is paid j also a well full
of Martyrs' bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebastian, with one of the
arrowes [used in shooting him] ; these are preserved by the Fulgentine
Monks, who have here their Monasterie, and who led us down into a
grotto which they affirm'd went divers furlong's under ground ; the sides
VOL. I. X

154 [rome. 1 645*
or walls wch we passed were fill'd with bones and dead bodies, laid as
it were on shelfes, whereof some were shut up wtb broad stones, and"
now and then a crosse or a palme cut in them. At the end of some of
these subterranean passages were square roomes with altars in them,
said to have ben the receptacles of primitive Christians in the times of
persecution, nor seems it improbable.
17 Feb. I was invited after dinner to the Academie of the Hu
morists, kept in a spacious hall belonging to Signr. Mancini, where the
Witts of the towne meete on certaine daies to recite poems, and debate
on severall subjects. The first yl speakes is cal'd the Lord, and stands
in an eminent place, and then the rest of the Virtuosi recite in order.
By these ingenious exercises, besides the learn'd discourses, is the
purity of the Italian tongue daily improv'd. The roome is hung round
with devises or emblemes, wtb mottos under them. There are severall
other Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical titles. In this
of the Humorists is the picture of Guarini, the famous author of the
Pastor Fido, once of this society. The cheife part of the day we spent
in hearing the academic exercises.
18 Feb. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere ; it has a faire front,
and within are parts of ye bodys of St. Mark and Marcellino ; on the
Tribuna is a painting of Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval. Baglioni,
with some other rare paintings. Coming round from hence we passed
by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now totaly in ruines. In
the afternoon we visited the English Jesuites, with whose Superior, P.
Stafford, I was well acquainted ; who received us courteously. They
call their Church and College St. Thomasso de gli Inglesi, and is a
Seminarie. Amongst other trifles they shew the relicq of Beckett,
their reputed Martyr. Of paintings there is one of Durante, and many
representing the sufferings of severall of their society executed in
England, especialy F. Champion.
In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. Trinita I had seen the feete
of many pilgrims wash'd by Princes, Cardinals, and Noble Romans,
and serv'd at table, as the Ladys and Noble Women did to other poore
creatures in another roome. 'Twas told us that no lesse than four
hundred fourty-foure thousand men had ben thus treated in the Jubilee

ROME. 1645.] 155
of 1600, and 25,500 women, as appeares by the Register, wcb brings
store of money.
Returning homeward I saw the Palace of Cardinal Spada, where is
a most magnificent hall painted by Daniel da Volterra and Giulio Pia-
centino, who made the fret in the little Court ; but the rare perspectives
are of Bolognesi. Neere this is the Monte Pieta, instituted as a Bank
for the Poore, who, if the sum be not greate, may have mony upon
pawns, &c. To this joynes St. Martino, to wcb belongs a Schola
or Corporation that do many works of charity. Hence we came
through Campo di Fiori, or Herb Market, in the midst of which is
a fountaine casting water out of a dolphin in coper ; and in this Piazza
is common execution don.
I went this afternoone to visite my Lord John Somerset, brother to
the Marques of Worcester, who had his appartment in Palazzo della
Cancellaria, belonging to Cardinal Francesco Barberini as Vice-chan-
celor of the Church of Rome and Protector of the English. The
building is of the famous Architect Bramante, of incrusted marble, with
4 ranks of noble lights ; the principal enterance is of Fontana's designe,
and all of marble ; the portico within sustain'd by massie columns ;
on the second peristyle above, the chambers are rarely painted by
Salviati and Vasari ; and so ample is this Palace that 6 Princes with
their families have ben receiv'd in it at one time, without incommoding
each other.
20 Feb. I went (as was my usual costome) and spent an afternoone
in Piazza Navona, as well to see what antiquities I could purchase
among the people who hold mercat there for medaills, pictures, and
such curiosities, as to heare the Montebanks prate and distribute their
medicines. This was formerly the Circus or Agonales, dedicated to
sports and pastimes, and is now the greatest mercat of ye Citty, having
three most noble fountaines, and the stately Palaces of the Pamfilij,
St. Giacomo de Spagnoli belonging to that nation, to which add two
Convents for Friers and Nuns, all Spanish. In this Church was
erected a most stately Catafalco, or Capella ardente, for the death of
the Queene of Spaine; the Church was hung with black, and heare I
heard a Spanish sermon or funebral oration, and observed the statues,

156 [ROME. 1645.
devises, and impreses hung about the walls, the Church and Pyramid
stuck with thousands of lights and tapers, which made a glorious shew.
The statue of St. James is by Sansovino ; there are also some good
pictures of Caracci. The facciata too is faire. Returning home I
pass'd by the stumps of old Pasquin at the corner of a streete call'd
Strada Pontificia ; here they still past up their drolling lampoons and
scurrilous papers. This had formerly ben one of the best statues for
workmanship and art in all the Citty, as the remaining bust does
still shew.
21 Feb. I walked in the morning up the hill towards the Capuchins,
where was then Cardinal Onufrio (brother to the late Pope Urban VIII.)
of the same order. He built them a pretty Church, full of rare pictures,
and there lies the body of St. Felix, that they say still does miracles.
The piece at ye great altar is by Lanfranc. 'Tis a lofty edifice, with a
beautifull avenue of trees, and in a good aire. After dinner passing
along the Strada del Carso, I observed the column of Antoninus,
passing under Arco Portugallo, which is but a relic, heretofore erected
in honor of Domitian, cal'd now Portugallo from a Cardinal living
neere it. A little further on the right hand stands the column, in a
small piazza, heretofore set up in honor of M. Aurelius Antoninus,
comprehending in a basse-relievo of white marble his hostil acts against
the Parthians, Armenians, Germans, &c. but it is now somewhat decay'd.
On the su'mit has been placed the image of St. Paule of gilded coper.
The pillar is said to be 161 foote high, ascended by 207 steps, receiving
light by 56 apertures, without defacing the sculpture.
At a little distance are the relicques of the Emperors Palace, the
heads of whose pillars shew them to have ben Corinthian.
Turning a little down we came to another piazza, in which stands a
sumptuous vase of porphyrie, and a faire fountaine ; but the grace of
this merket, and indeede the admiration of the whole world, is the
Pantheon, now called S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all the
Gods, and still remaining the most entire antiquitie of the Citty. It
was built by Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the architrave of the portico
sustain'd by 13 pillars of Theban marble, 6 foote thick and 53 in height,
of one intire stone. In this porch is an old inscription.

ROME.

1645-] 157

Entring the Church we admire the fabric, wholly cover'd with one
cupola, seemingly suspended in the aire, and receiving light by a hole
in the middle onely. The structure is neere as high as broad, viz
144 foote, not counting the thicknesse of the walls, wcb is 22 more
to the top, all of white marble, and til Urban VIII. converted part
of the metall into ordnance to warr against the Duke of Parma, and
part to make the high altar in St. Peters, it was all over cover'd with
Corinthian brasse, ascending by 40 degrees within the roof or convex
of the cupola, richly carved with octagons in the stone. There are
niches in the walls, in wcb stood heretofore the statues of Jupiter and
the other Gods and Goddesses ; for here was that Venus which had
hung in her ear the other Union * that Cleopatra was about to dis
solve and drink up as she had done its fellow. There are severall of
these niches one above another for the celestial, terrestrial, and sub
terranean deities, but the place is now converted into a Church dedi
cated to the B. Virgin and all the Saints. The pavement is excel
lent, and the vast folding gates of Corinthian brasse. In a word,
'tis of all the Roman antiquities the most worthy of notice. There lie
interr'd in this Temple the famous Raphael da Urbino, Perino del
Vaga, F. Zuccharo, and other painters.
Returning home we passe by Cardinal Cajetan's Palace, a noble
piece of architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, wcb is the grace of the
whole Corso.
22 Feb. I went to Trinita del Monte, a monasterie of French, a
noble Church built by Lewis XI. and Charles VIII. the Chapells well
painted,, especialy that by Zuccari, Volterra, and the cloyster wtb the
miracles of their St. Francis di Paulo and the heads of the French

* And in the cup an union shall he throw,
Richer than that which four successive kings
In Denmark's crown have worn.
Shakespeare, Hamlet, Act V. Sc. 2 ; ed. Johnson and Steevens.
Theobald says, an union is the finest sort of pearl, and has its place in all crowns and coronets.
Steevens cites from Soliman and Perseda — " Ay, were it Cleopatra's union" — adding the following
elucidation of the term from P. Holland's Translation of Pliny's Natural History : " And here
upon it is that our dainties and delicates here at Rome, &c. call them unions, as a man would say
singular and by themselves alone." Edit.

158 [rome. 1645-
Kings. In ye pergolo above, the walls are ivrought with excellent
perspective, especialy the St. John ; there are the Babylonish dials in
vented by Kircher the Jesuite. This Convent so eminently situated on
Mons Pincius, has the intire prospect of Campus Martius, and has a
faire garden which joynes to the Palazzo di Medici.
. 23d. I went to heare a sermon at St. Giacomo de gli Incurabili,
a faire Church built by F. Volaterra, of good architecture, and so is
the Hospital, where only desperate patients are brought. I pass'd the
evening at St. Maria del Popolo, heretofore Nero's sepulchre, where his
ashes lay many yeares in a marble chest. To this Church joynes the
Monasterie of St. Augustine, wcb has pretty gardens on Mons Pincius,
and in the Church is the miraculous shrine of the Madona wch Pope
Paul III. brought barefooted to the place, supplicating for a victory
over the Turks in 1464. In a Chapell of the Ghisi are some rare
paintings of Raphael and noble sculptures. Those two in the Choire
are by Sansovino, and in the Chapel de Cerasii a piece of Caravaggio.
Here lie buried many greate scholars and artists, of which I tooke
notice of this inscription :
Hospes, disce novum mortis genus ; improba felis,
Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo.
Opposite to the faciata of the Church is a superb obelise full of hiero
glyphics, the same that Sennesertus K. of Egypt dedicated to the Sun,
brought to Rome by Augustus,- erected in the Circus Maximus, and
since placed here by Pope Sixtus V, It is 88 foote high, of one intire
stone, and placed wtb greate art and engines by the famous Domenieo
Fontana. •
Hence turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo, we came to
Justinian's gardens neere the Muro torto, so prominently built as
threatning every moment to fall, yet standing so for these thousand
yeares. Under this is the burying-place for the com'on prostitutes,
where they are put into the ground sans ceremonie.
24 Feb. We walked to St. Roches and Martines neere the brink of
the Tyber, a large Hospital for both sexes. Hence to the Mausolaeum
Augusti 'twixt the Tyber and the Via Flaminia, now much ruin'd,

ROME. 1645-] 159
which had formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It was
intended as a cemeterie for the Roman Emperors, had twelve ports, and'
was cover'd with a cupola of white marble, inviron'd with stately trees
and innumerable statues, all of it now converted into a garden. We
pass'd the afternoone at the Sapienza, a very stately building full of
good marbles, especialy the Portico, of admirable architecture. These
are properly the Universitie Scholes, where lectures are read on law,
medicine, and anatomie, and students perform their exercises.
Hence we walk'd to St. Andrea della Valle neere the former Theater
of Pompey, and the famous Piccolomini, but given to this Church and
the Order who are Theatines. The Barberini have in this place a
Chapell, of curious incrusted marbles of severall sorts, and rare paint
ings. Under it is the place where St. Sebastian is said to have ben
beaten with rods, before he was shot with darts. The cupola is paynted
by Lanfranc, an inestimable work, and the whole fabric and Monas
tery adjoining are admirable.
25 Feb. I was invited by a Dominican Frier, whom we usually
heard preach to a number of Jewes, to be god-father to a converted'
Turk and Jew. The ceremonie was perform'd in. the Church of Sta
Maria sopra la Minerva, neere the Capitol. They were clad in white,
then exorcis'd at their entering the Church with aboundance of cere
monies, and when led into the Choir were baptiz'd by a Bishop m
pontificalibus. The Turk lived afterwards in Rome, sold hot waters,
and would bring us presents when he met tis, kneeling and kissing the
hems of our cloaks ; but the Jew was believ'd to be a counterfeit.
This Church, situate on a spacious rising, was formerly consecrated to
Minerva. 'Tis well built and richly adorn'd, and the body of St. Ca
therine di Sienna lies buried here. The paintings of ye Chapel are by
Marcello Venuti; the Madona over the altar is by Giov. di Fiesole,
cal'd the Angelic Painter, who was of the Order of these Monks.
There are many charities dealt publiqly here, especialy at the Proces
sion on the Annunciation, when 1 saw his Holinesse, with all the Car
dinals, Prelates, &c. in pontificalibus ; dowries being given to 300
poore girls all clad in white. The Pope had his tiara on his head, and
was carried on mens shoulders in an open, arm-chaire, blessing the

160 [ROME. 1645.
people as he pass'd. The statue of Christ at the Columna is esteem'd
one of the master- pieces of M. Angelo : innumerable are the paintings
by the best artists, and the organ is accounted one of ye sweetest in
Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred here. We return'd by St. Marcs,
a stately Church, with an excellent pavement, and a fine piece by Pem-
gino, of the two Martyrs. Adjoyning to this is a noble Palace built
by the famous Bramanti.
26 Feb. Ascending the hill we came to the Forum Trajanum,
where his column stands yet intire, wrought with admirable bass-
relievo recording the Dacian war, the figures at the upper part appear
ing of the same proportion with those below. 'Tis ascended by 192
steps, enlightened with 44 apertures or windows, artificialy dispos'd ;
in height from the pedestal 140 foote.
It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where now stands
St. Peter's of gilt brasse, erected by Pope Sixtus V. The sculpture of
this stupendious pillar is thought to be the work of Apollodorus ; but
what is very observable is the descent to the plinth of the pedestale,
shewing how this ancient Cittie lies now buried in her ruines, this mo
nument being at first set up on a rising ground. After dinner we took
the aire in Cardinal Bentivoglio's delicious gardens, now but newly
deceas'd. He had a faire Palace built by several good masters on part
of the ruines of Constantine's Bathes : well adorn'd wth columns and
paintings, especialy those of Guido Rheni.
27 Feb. In the morning Mr. Henshaw and my selfe walked to the
Trophies of Marius, erected in honour of his victorie over the Cim-
brians, but these now taken out of their niches are plac'd on the ba
lusters of the Capitol, so that their ancient station is now a ruine.
Keeping on our way we came to St. Crosse of Jerusalem, built by Con-
stantine over the demolition of the Temple of Venus and Cupid, which
he threw down ; and 'twas here they report he deposited the wood of
the true Crosse found by his mother Helena in honour whereof this
Church was built, and in memory of his victory over Maxentius when
that holy signe appear'd to him. The edifice without is Gotiq, but
very glorious within, especialy the roofe, and one tribune well painted.
Here is a Chapel dedicated to St. Helena, the floore whereoff is of earth

ROME. 1645-] 161
brought from Jerusalem ; the walls are of faire Mosaic, in which they
suffer no women to enter it save once a yeare. Under the high altar
of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, in Lydian marble, and Bene
dict VII. and they shew a number of reliques, expos'd at our request,
with a phial of our B. Saviour's blood ; two thornes of his Crowne ;
three chips of the real Crosse ; one of the nailes, wanting a point ;
St. Thomas's doubting finger; and a fragment of the title [put on the
Cross], being part of a thin board ; some of Judas's pieces of silver,
and many more, if one had faith to believe it. To this venerable Church
joynes a Monasterie, the gardens taking up the space of an ancient
amphitheater. Hence we pass'd beyond the walls out at the Port of
St. Laurence to that Saint's Church, and where his ashes are enshrin'd.
This was also built by the same great Constant'rne, famous for the
Coronation of Pietro Altisiodorensis, Emperor of Constantinople, by
Honorius the Second. 'Tis sayd the corps of St. Stephen the proto-
martyr was deposited here by that of St. Sebastian, which it had no
sooner touch'd but Sebastian gave it place of its own accord. The
Church has no lesse than 7 privileg'd altars and excellent pictures.
About the walls are painted this martyr's sufferings, and when they
built them, the bones of divers Saints were translated to other Churches.
The front is Gotic. In our return we saw a small ruine of an aquaeduct
built by Q. Marcius the praetor ; and so pass'd thro' that incomparable
strait streete leading to Sta Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, sufficiently
tired. We were taken up next morning in seeing the impertinences of the
Carnival, when all the world are as mad at Rome as at other places ;
but the most remarkable were the 3 races of the Barbarie horses, that
run in the Strada del Corso without riders, onely having spurrs so
placed on their backs, and hanging downe by their sides, as by their
motion to stimulate them ; then of mares, then of asses, of buffalos,
naked men, old and young, and boys, and aboundance of idle ridiculous
passetime. One thing is remarkable, their acting comedies on a stage
placed on a cart, or plaustrum, where the scene or tiring-place is made
of boughs in a rural manner, which they drive from streete to streete
vol. 1. y

162 [rome. 1645-
with a yoake or two of oxen, after the ancient guise. The streetes
swarm wth prostitutes, buffoones, and all man'er of rabble.
1 March. At the Greeke Church we saw ye Eastern ceremonies
perform'd by a Bishop, &c. in that tongue. Here the unfortunate
Duke and Dutchess of Bullion received their ashes, it being the first
day of Lent ; there was now as much trudging up and downe of devotees
as the day before of licentious people, all Saints alike to appearance.
The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very full of sta
tues and antiquities, especialy urnes, amongst which is that of Min.
Felix ; a Terminus that formerly stood in the Appian Way, and a huge
colosse of the Emperor Justinian. There is a delicate aviarie on the
hill ; the whole gardens furnish'd with rare collections, fresh, shady,
and adorn'd wth noble fountaines. Continuing our walke a mile farther,
we came to Pons Milvius, now Mela, where Constantine overthrew
Maxentius, and saw the miraculous signe of the Crosse, " in hoc signo
vinces." It was a sweete morning, and the bushes were full of night-
ingals. Hence to Aqua Claudia againe, an aqueduct finish'd by that
Emperor at the expence of 8 millions. In the afternoone to Farneze's
gardens, neere the Campo Vaccino ; and upon the Palatine Mount to
survey the ruines of Juno's Temple in the Piscina, a Piazza so call'd
neere the famous bridg built by Antoninus Pius and re-edified by Pope
Sixtus IV.
The rest of this weeke we went to the Vatican, to heare the sermons
at St. Peter's of the most famous preachers, who discourse on the same
subjects and texts yearely, full of Italian eloquence and action. On
our Lady-day, 25. March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp
to the Minerva, the greate guns of the Castle St. Angelo being fired,
when he gives portions to 500 zitelle [young women], who kisse his feete
in procession, some destin'd to marry, some to be nunns. The scholars
of the CoUedge celebrating the B. Virgin with their compositions. The
next day his Holinesse was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent
to severall greate Princes; the Procurator of the Carmelites preaching on
our Savior's feeding the multitude with 5 loaves, the ceremony ends.
The Sacrament being this day expos'd and the reliques of the Holy

rome. 1645-] 163
Crosse, the concourse about the streetes is extraordinarie. On Palm
Sunday there was a greate procession after a papal masse.
11 April. St. Veronica's haudkercheif [with the impression of our
Saviour's face] was expos'd, and the next day the speare, with a world
of ceremonie. On Holy Thursday the Pope said masse, and afterwards
carried the Host in procession about the Chapell, with an infinitie of
tapers ; this finish'd, his Holinesse was carried in his open chaire on
men's shoulders to the place where, reading the Bull in Cozna Domini,
he both curses and blesses all in a breath; then the guns are againe fired.
Hence he went to the Ducal hall of* the Vatican, where he wash'd the
feete of 12 poore men, with almost the same ceremonie as 'tis don at
Whitehall ; they have clothes, a dinner, and almes, wcb he gives with
his owne hands, and serves at their table ; they have also gold and silver
medailles,- but their garments are of white wollen long robes, as we paint
the Apostles. The same ceremonies are don by ye Conservators and
other Officers of State at St. John de Lateran ; and noW the table on
wcb they say our Blessed Lord celebrated his last supper, is set out, and
the heads of the Apostles. In every famous Church, they are busy in
dressing up their pageantries to represent the Holy Sepulchre, of which
we went to visite divers.
On Good Friday we went againe to St. Peter's, where the Hand
kerchief, Launce, and Crosse were all expos'd and worshipp'd toge
ther. All the confession-seates were fill'd with devout people, and at
night was a procession of several who most lamentably whipped them
selves till the blood stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others
upon the bare back, having vizors and masks on their faces; at every 3
or 4 steps dashing the knotted and ravelled whipcord over their shoul
ders, as hard as they could lay it on, whilst some of the religious orders
and fraternities sung in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going
before, making altogether a horrible and indeede heathenish pompe.
The next day there was much ceremony at St. John de Lateran, so
as the whole weeke was spent in running from Church to Church,
all the towne in buisy devotion, greate silence, and unimaginable
superstition. Easter-day I was awaken'd by the guns from St. Angelo : we went to

164 [ROME. 1645-
St. Peter's, where the Pope himselfe celebrated masse, shew'd the
reliques before named, and gave a publiq benediction.
Monday we went to heare music in the Chiesa Nova, and tho' there
were aboundance of ceremonies at the other greate Churches, and greate
exposure of reliques, yet being wearied with sights of this nature, and
the season of the yeare, summer, at Rome being very dangerous by rea
son of the heates, minding us of returning Northwards, we spent the rest
of our time in visiting such places as we had not yet sufficiently seene.;
onely I do not forget the Pope's benediction of the Corf alone, or Stand
ard, and giving the hallowed palmes ; and on May-day the greate pro
cession of the Universitie and the Mulatiers at St. Antonie's, and their
setting up a foolish May- pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. We
therefore now tooke coach a little out of towne, to visite the famous
Roma soterranea, being much like what we had seen at St. Sebas
tian's. Here in a cornfield, guided by two torches, we crept on our
bellies into a little hole, about 20 paces, which delivered us into a large
entrie that led us into several streetes or allies, a good depth in the
bowells of the earth, a strange and fearefull passage for divers miles,
as Bosio has measured and described them in his book*. We ever
and anon came into pretty square roomes, that seem'd to be Chapells
with altars, and some adorn'd with very ordinary ancient painting.
Many skeletons 'and bodies are plac'd on the sides one above the other
in degrees like shelves, whereof some are shut up with a coarse flat
stone, having ingraven on them Pro Christo, or a Cross and Palmes,
wch are supposed to have been martyrs. Here, in all likelyhood, were
the meetings of the primitive Christians during the persecutions, as
Pliny the younger describes them. As I was prying about, I found a
glasse phiale, fill'd as was conjectur'd with dried blood, and 2 lachry
matories. Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for there appear'd
nothing else) lay so intire as if plac'd by the art of the chirurgeon, but
being only touched fell all to dust. Thus after wandering two or three
miles in this subterranean meander, we retum'd almost blind when we
came into the day-light, and even choked by the smoake of the torches.

* Intituled Roma Sotteranea, folio, Rom. 163%.

ROME. 1645-] 165
It is said that a French Bishop and his retinue adventuring too far in
these denns, their lights going out, were never heard of more.
We were entertain'd at night with an English play at the Jesuites,
where we before had dined ; and the next at Prince Galicano's, who
himself composed the musiq to a magnificent opera, where were present
Cardinal Pamphilio the Pope's nephew, the Governors of Rome, the
Cardinals, ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility and strangers.
There had been in the morning a Just and Tournament of severall young
gentlemen on a formal defy, to which we had been invited ; the prizes
being distributed by the ladies after the knight-errantry way. The
launcers and swordsmen running at tilt against the barriers, with a
greate deale of clatter, but without any bloodshed, giving much diversion
to the spectators, and was new to us travellers.
The next day Mr. Henshaw and I spent the morning in attending
the entrance and cavalcade of Card. Medici, the Ambassrfrom the Grand
Duke of Florence, by the Via Flaminia. After dinner we went again
to see the Villa Borghesi, about a mile without the Cittie; the garden
is rather a park or paradise, contriv'd and planted with walkes and shades
of myrtils, cypresse and other trees and groves, with aboundance of
fountaines, statues, and bass -relievos, and several pretty murmuring
rivulets. Here they had hung large netts to catch woodcocks. There
was also a Vivarie, where amongst other exotic fowles was an ostridge ;
besides a most capacious aviarie ; and in another inclosed part, an herd
of deere. Before the palace (which might become the courte of a
great prince) stands a noble fountaine of white marble, inrich'd with
statues. The outer walls of the house are incrusted with excellent
antique basse-relievos of the same marble, incornish'd with festoons
and niches set with statues from the foundation to the roofe. A stately
Portico joynes the palace, full of statues and columns of marble, urnes
arid other curiosities of sculpture. In the first hall were the 12 Caesars
of antiq marble, and the whole apartments furnish'd with pictures of the
most celebrated masters, and two rare tables of porphyrie of greate
value. But of this already *, for I often visited this delicious place.
* See p. 106.

166 [rome. 1645.
This night were glorious fire-works at the palace of Card. Medici
before the gate, and lights of severall colours all about the windows
through the Cittie, which they contrive by setting the candles in little
paper lanterns died with various colours, placing hundreds of them
from storie to storie, which renders a gallant shew.
4 May. Having seen the entrie of ye Ambassr of Lucca, I went to
the Vatican, where, by favour of our Cardinal Protector, Fran. Barberini,
I was admitted into the Consistorie, heard the Ambass1" make his ora
tion in Latine to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state or throne, and
changing two pontifical miters ; after which I was presented to kisse
his toe, that is, his embroder'd slipper, two Cardinals holding up his
vest and surplice, and then being sufficiently bless'd with his thumb and
two fingers for that day, I return'd home to dinner.
We went againe to see the medails of Sig1 Gotefredi, which are ab
solutely the best collection in Rome.
Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human figure lies,
found on the snowy Alps ; I measured the Hidra, and found it not a
foot long; the three necks and 15 heads seeme to be but patch'd up
with several pieces of serpents skins.
5 May. We tooke coach, and went 15 miles out of the Cittie to
Frascati, formerly Tusculanum, a villa of Card1 Aldobrandirai, built
for a country-house, but surpassing, in my opinion, the most delicious
places I ever beheld for its situation, elegance, plentifull water, groves,
ascents, and prospects. Just behind the palace (wcb is of excellent
architecture) in the center of ye inclosure rises an high hill or moun
taine all over clad with tall wood, and so form'd by nature as if it had
been cut out by art, from the sum'it whereof falls a cascade, seeming
rather a greate river than a streame precipitating into a large theater
of water, representing an exact and perfect rainebow when the sun
shines out. Under this is made an artificiall grott, wherein are curious
rocks, hydraulic organs, and all sorts of singing birds moving and chirp
ing by force of the water, with severall other pageants and surprising
inventions. In the center of one of these roomes rises a coper ball that
continually daunces about 3 foote above the pavement by virtue of a
wind conveyed secretely to a hole beneath it ; with many other devices

FRA.SCATI. 1645-] 167
to wett the unwary spectators, so that one can hardly step without
wetting to the skin. In one of these theaters of water is an Atlas
spouting up the streame to a very great height ; and another monster
makes a terrible roaring with an horn ; but above all, the representation
of a storm is most naturall, with such fury of raine, wind, and thunder,
as one would imagine ones self in some extreame tempest. The garden
has excellent walkes and shady groves, abundance of rare fruit, oranges,
lemons, &c. and the goodly prospect of Rome, above all description, so
as I do not wonder that Cicero and others have celebrated this place
with such encomiums. The palace is indeed built more like a cabinet
than any thing compos'd of stone and mortar ; it has in the middle a
hall furnish'd with excellent marbles and rare pictures, especially those
of Gioseppi d'Arpino ; the moveables are princely and rich. This was
the last piece of architecture finish'd by Giacomo de la Porta, who built
it for Pietro Card1 Aldobrandini in the time of Clement VIII. *
We went hence to another house and garden not far distant, on the
side of a hill called Mondragone, finish'd by Card1 Scipio Borghese, an
ample and kingly edifice. It has a very long galerie, and at the end a
theater for pastimes, spacious courts, rare grotts, vineyards, olive
grounds, groves, and solitudes. The aire is so fresh and sweete, as
few parts of Italy exceed it ; nor is it inferior to any palace in the cittie
itselfe for statues, pictures, and furniture ; but it growing late we could
not take such particular notice of these things as they deserv'd.
6 May. We rested ourselves ; and next day in a coach tooke our
last farewell of visiting the circumjacent places, going to Tivoli or the
old Tyburtine. At about 6 miles from Rome we passe the Teverone,
a bridge built by Mammea yB mother of Severus, and so by divers an
cient sepulchres, amongst others that of Valerius Volusi ; and neere it
passe the stinking sulphurous river over the Ponte Lucano, where we
found an heape or turret full of inscriptions, now call'd the Tomb of
Plautius. Arriv'd at Tivoli we went first to see the Palace d'Este*
erected on a plaine, but where was formerly an hill. The palace is very

* Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected Pope in January 1592 by the name of Clement
VIII. and died in March 1605.

J68 [tivoli. 1645.
ample and stately. In the garden on the right hand are 16 vast
conchas of marble jetting out waters ; in the midst of these stands a
Janus quadrifrons, y1 cast forth 4 girandolas, call'd from the resemblance
[to a particular exhibition in fireworks so named] the Fontana di
Speccho [looking-glass.] Neere this is a place for tilting. Before
the ascent of ye palace is the famous fountaine of Leda, and not far
from that 4 sweete and delicious gardens. Descending thence are two
pyramids of water, and in a grove of trees neere it the fountaines of
Tethys, Esculapius, Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora ; then the
prancing Pegasus, Bacchus, the Grott of Venus, the two Colosses of
Melicerta, and Sibylla Tibertina, all of exquisite marble, coper, and
other suitable adornements. The Cupids pouring out water are espe
cialy most rare, and the urnes on which are plac'd the 10 nymphs.
The Grotts are richly pav'd wtb Pietra Commessa, shells, corall, &c.
Towards Roma Triumphans Jeades a long and spacious walk, full of
fountaines, under which is historized the whole Ovidian Metamorphosis
in rarely sculptur'd mezzo relievo. At the end of this, next the wall, is
ye Cittie of Rome as it was in its beauty, of small models, representing
that Cittie, with its Amphitheaters, Naumachia, Thermae, Temples,
Arches, Aqueducts, Streetes, and other magnificences, with a little
streame running thro' it for the Tyber, gushing out of an urne next the
statue of ye river. In another garden is a noble aviarie, the birds arti
ficial, and singing till an owle appeares, on which they suddainly change
their notes. Near this is the fountaine of Dragons casting out large
streames of water with great noises. In another Grotto called Grotto
di Natura, is an hydraulic organ ; and below this are divers stews and
fish -pounds, in one of which is the statue of Neptune in his chariot on
a sea-horse, in another a Triton ; and lastly a garden of simples. There
are besides in the palace many rare statues and pictures, bedsteds richly
inlaied, and sundry other precious moveables ; the whole is said to have
cost the best part of a million. Having gratified our curiositie with
these artificial miracles, and din'd, we went to see the so famous natural
precipice and cascade of the river Anio, rushing down from the moun
taines of Tivoli, with that fury that, what with the mist it perpetualy
casts up by the breaking of the water against the rocks, and what with

ROME. 1645-] 169
the sun shining on it and forming a natural Iris, the prodigious depth
of the gulph below, it is enough to astonish one that lookes on it. Upon
the sum'ite of this rock stand the ruines and some pillars and cornishes
of the temple of Sibylla Tybertina, or Albunea, a round fabric, still disco
vering some of its pristine beauty. Here was a greate deal of gunpowder
drying in the sun, and a little beneath, mills belonging to the Pope.
And now we returned to Rome. By the way we were shew'd at some
distance the citty Praeneste, and the Hadrian Villa, now onely an heape
of ruines, and so came late to our lodging.
We now determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, ex
cept what should happen to come in our way when my companion
Mr. Henshaw and myself should go to take the aire : onely I may not
omit that one afternoone, diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a
Montebank there to allure curious strangers, taking off a ring from
his finger, wcb seemed set with a dull, darke stone, a little swelling
out, like w' we call (tho' untruly) a toadstone, and wetting his finger a
little in his mouth and then touching it, it emitted a luculent flame as
bright and large as a small wax candle ; then blowing it out, he re
peated this several times. I have much regretted that I did not pur
chase the receipt of him for making that composition at what price
soever ; for tho' there is a processe in Jo. Baptista Porta and others
how to do it, yet on severall trials they none of them have succeeded.
Amongst other observations I made in Rome are these : As to Coins
and Medails, 10 Asses make the Roman Denarius, 5 the Quinarius,
10 Denarii an Aureus ; which accompt runs almost exactly wtb what
is now in use of Quatrini, Baiocs, Julios, and Scudi, each exceeding
the other in the proportion of ten. The Sestertius was a small silver
coyne marked h. s. or rather ll% valu'd 2 pound and half of silver,
viz. 250 Denarii, about 25 golden Ducati. The stamp of the Roman
Denarius varied, having sometimes a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma
armed, or with a charriot arid two horses, which were call'd Bigi; if
with 4, Quadrigi ; if with a Victoria, so nam'd. The marke of the
Denarius was distinguish'd >I< thus, or X ; the Quinarius of halfe
value, had on one side ye head of Rome and V, the reverse Castor and
Pollux on horseback, inscribed Roma, &c.
vol. 1. z

170 [ROME. 1645-
I observ'd that in the Greek Church they made the signe of the
Crosse from the right hand to the left ; contrary to the Latines and the
Schismatic Greekes ; gave the benediction with the first, second, and
little finger stretched out, retaining the third bent down, expressing a
distance of the third Person of the Holy Trinity from the first two.
For sculptors and architects we found Bernini and Algardi were in
the greatest esteeme ; Fiamingo as a statuary, who made the Andrea
in St. Peter's, and is said to have died madd because it was placed in
an ill light. Amongst the painters, Antonio de la Cornea, who has
such an addresse of counterfeiting the hands of the ancient masters so
well as to make his copies passe for originals; Pietro de Cortone, Monsr
Poussine a Frenchman, and innumerable more. Fioravanti for armour,
plate, dead life, tapistry, &c. The chiefe masters of music, after
Marc Antonio the best trebble, is Cavalier Lauretto an eunuch ; the
next Card. Bichi's eunuch, Bianchi tenor, and Nicholai base. The
Jewes in" Rome wore red hatts til the Card, of Lions, being short
sighted, lately saluted one of them thinking him to be a Cardinal as
he pass'd by his coach ; on which an order was made that they should
use only the yellow colour. There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward,
an English devotee, who much solicited for an Order of Jesuitesses.
At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hang'd in his cloak and hatt
for murder. They struck the malefactor wtb a club y* first stunn'd him,
and then cut his throat. At Naples they use a frame, like ours at
Halifax (a guillotine).
It is reported that Rome has ben once no lesse than 50 miles in com
pass, now not 13, containing in it 3000 Churches and Chapells, Mo
nasteries, &c. It is divided into 14 Regions or Wards ; has 7 Moun
taines, and as many Campi or Vally's ; in these are faire Parks or Gar
dens call'd Villas, being onely places of recesse and pleasure, at some
distance from the streetes, yet within the walls.
The Bills of Exchange I tooke up from my first entering Italy till I
went from Rome amounted but to 616 ducati di Banco, though I pur-
chas'd many books, pictures, and curiosities.
18 May. I intended to have seen Loretto, but being disappointed
of monies long expected, I was forc'd to returne by the same way I

ITALY. 1645-] 171
came, desiring, if possible, to be at Venice by the Ascension, and
therefore I diverted to take Legorne in the way, as well to furnish me
wth credit by a merchant there, as to take order for transporting such
collections as I had made at Rome. When on my way, turning about
to behold this once and yet glorious Citty, from an eminence, I did not
without some regret give it my last farewell.
Having taken leave of our friends at Rome, where I had sojourn'd
now about 7 moneths, Autumn, Winter, and Spring, I tooke coach in
company with two courteous Italian Gentlemen. In the afternoone we
ariv'd at an house, or rather castle, belonging to the Duke of Parma,
called Caprarola*, situate on the brow of an hill that overlooks a little
town, or rather a naturall and stupendous rock; witnesse those vast
caves serving now for cellarage, where we were entertain'd wth most ge
nerous wine of severall sorts, being just under the foundation. The
Palace was built by ye famous Architect Vignola at the cost of Card1
Alexr. Farnese, in forme of an octagone, the court in the middle being
exactly round, so as rather to resemble a fort or castle ; yet the cham
bers within are all of them square, which makes the walls exceeding
thick. One of these rooms is so artificialy contriv'd that from the two
opposite angles one may hear the least whisper j .they say any perfect
square dos it. Most of the paintings are by Zuccari. It has a stately
entrie, on which spouts an artificiall fountaine within the porch. The
hall, chapell, and great number of lodging chambers are remarkable,
but most of all the pictures and witty inventions of Hannibal Caracci ;
the dead Christ is incomparable. Behind are the gardens full of statues
and noble fountaines, especialy that of the Shepherds. After din'er
we tooke horse, and lay that night at Montrosso, 20 miles from Rome.
19 May. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at St. Laurenzo. Next day
at Radicofani, and slept at Turnera.
21. We dined at Sienna, where we could not passe admiring the
greate Church f built intirely both within and without with white and
black marble in polisb'd squares, by Macarino, shewing so beautifull

* Caprarola. There is a large descriptive account published of this Palace, with magnificent
plates of the buildings, pictures, and statues. t See p. 86.

172 - [ITALY. 1645.
after a showre has fall'n. The floore within is of various colour'd mar
bles, representing the storie of both Testaments admirably wrought.
Here lies Pius the Second. The Bibliothec is painted by P. Perugino
and Raphael. The life of iEneas Sylvius is in fresco ; in the middle
are the 3 Graces of antiq marble, very curious, and the front of this
building, tho' Gotic, is yet very fine. Amongst other things they shew
St. Catharine's disciplining Cell, the doore whereof is half cut out into
chipps by the pilgrimes and devotees, being of deale wood.
Setting out hence for Pisa, we went againe to see the Domo in which
the Emperor Henry VII. lies buried, poyson'd by a Monk in the Eu
charist. The bending Tower was built by Busqueto Delichio, a Gre
cian architect, and is a stupendious piece of art *. In the gallery of
curiosities is a faire mummy ; the taile of a sea-horse ; corall growing
on a man's skull ; a chariot automaton ; two pieces of rock chrystall,
in one of which is a drop of water, in the other three or foure small
wormes ; two embalm'd children ; divers petrifactions, &c. The gar
den of simples is well furnish'd, and has in it the deadly yew or taxus
of the ancients ; wcb Dr. Bellueccio, the superintendant, affirmes that
his workmen cannot endure to clip for above the space of halfe an houre
at a time, from the paine of the head which surprizes them.
We went hence for Ligorne by coach, where I took up 90 crownes
for the rest of my journey, wtb letters of credit for Venice, after I had
sufficiently complain'd of my defeate of correspondence at Rome.
The next day I came to Lucca, a small but pretty territorie and state
of itselfe. — The Citty is neate and well fortified, with noble and plea
sant walkes of trees on the workes, where the gentry and ladies use to
take the aire. 'Tis situate on an ample plaine by the river Serchio, yet
the country about it is hilly. The Senat-house is magnificent. The
Church of St. Michael is a noble piece, as is also St. Fredian, more
remarkable to us for the corpse of St. Richard, an English Kingf , who
died here in his pilgrimage towards Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb :

* See pp. 78, 8<2, for other bending towers at Pisa and Florence.
t Who this Richard King of England was, it is impossible to say j the tomb still exists, and has
long been a crux to Antiquaries and Travellers. — Editor.

LUCCA.

1645-] 173

Hie rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus :
Rex fuit Anglorum, regnum tenet iste polorum.
Regnum demisit pro Christo cuncta reliquit.
Ergo Richardum nobis dedit Anglia sanctum.
Hie genitor Sanctae Wulburgae Virginis alrnae
Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Yinebaldi,
SufFragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum.
Next this we visited St. Crosses, an excellent structure, all of marble
both without and within, and so adorn'd as may vie with many of the
fairest even in Rome; witness the huge Crosse valued at ag.15,000,
above all venerable for that sacred volto which (as tradition goes) was
miraculously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus,
whilst the artist, finishing the rest of the body, v/as meditating what
face to set on it. The inhabitants are exceedingly civill to strangers,
above all places in Italy, and they speake ye purest Italian. 'Tis also
cheape living, which causes travellers to set up their rest here more
than in Florence, tho' a more celebrated Citty ; besides, the ladys here
are very conversable, and the religious women not at all reserv'd ; of
these we bought gloves and embroidred stomachers generaly worn by
gentlemen in these countries. The circuit of this state is but two easy
days journey, and lies mixed with the Duke of Tuscany's, but having
Spain for a Protector (tho' the least bigotted of all Roman Catholics),
and being one of the best fortify' d Cifties in Italy, it remains in peace.
This whole country abounds in excellent olives, &c.
Going hence for Florence, we dined at Pistoia, where besides one
church there was little observable: onely in the highway we crossed
a rivulet of salt water tho' many miles from the sea. The country is
extreamly pleasant, full of gardens, and the roads straight as a line for
the best part of that whole day, the hedges planted with trees at equal
distances, watered with cleare and plentifull streames.
Rising early the next morning we alighted at Poggio Imperiale,
being a Palace of the Greate Duke, not far from yc Citty, having omitted
it in my passage to Rome. The ascent to the house is by a stately
gallery as it were of taile and overgrown cypresse trees for neere half a
mile. At the enterance of these ranges are placed statues of the Tyber
and Arno, of marble ; those also of Virgil, Ovid, Petrarch, and Dante.

174 [FLORENCE. 1645-
The building is sumptuous and curiously furnish'd within with cabinets
of Pietra Commessa in tables, pavements, &c. which is a magnificence
or work particularly affected at Florence. The larger pictures are, Adam
and Eve by Albert Durer, very excellent ; as is y* piece of carving in
wood by the same hand standing in a cupboard. Here is painted the
whole Austrian line ; the Duke's Mother, sister to the Emperor, the
foundresse of this Palace, than which there is none in Italy that 1 had
seene more magnificently adorn'd or furnish'd.
We could not omit in our passage to revisit the same and other curio
sities which we had omitted at our first being at Florence. We went
therefore to see the famous piece of Andrea del Sarto in ye Annunciata ;
the storie is, that the Painter in a time of dearth borrow'd a sack of
corne of the religious of that convent, and repayment being demanded,
he wrought it out in this picture, which represents Joseph sitting on a
sack of corn and reading to the B. Virgin ; a piece infinitely valued.
There fell down in the Cloister an old man's face painted on the wall in
fresco, greately esteem'd, and brake into crumbs ; the Duke sent his
best painters to make another instead of it, but none of them would
presume to touch a pencil where Andrea had wrought, like another
Apelles ; but one of them was so industrious and patient, that, picking
up the fragments, he laied and fastned them so artificialy together, that
the injury it had received was hardly discernable. Andrea del Sarto
lies buried in the same place. Here is also that picture of Bartolomeo
who having spent his utmost skill in ye face of ye Angel Gabriel, and
being troubl'd that he could not exceede it in the Virgin, he began the
body and to finish the clothes, and so left it, minding in ye morning to
work on the face ; but when he came, no sooner had he drawn away
the cloth that was hung before it to preserve it from ye dust, than an
admirable and ravishing face was found ready painted, at which miracle
all the Citty came in to worship ; 'tis now kept in ye Chapell of ye Sa
lutation, a place so enrich'd by the devotees that none in Italy save
Loretto is said to exceede it. This picture is always cover'd with 3
shutters, one of which is of massie silver ; methinks it is very brown,
the forehead and cheekes whiter, as if it had ben scraped. They report
that those who have the honour of seeing it never lose their sight 

FLORENCE. 1645-] 1^5
happy then we ! There is belonging to this Church a world of plate,
some whole statues of it, and lamps innumerable, besides the costly
vowes hung up, some of gold, and a cabinet of precious stones.
Visiting the Duke's repository againe, we told at least 40 ranks of
porphyry and other statues, and 28 whole figures, many rare paintiugs
and relievo's, 2 square columns wtb trophies. In one of ye galleries
24 figures and 50 antiq heads ; a Bacchus of M. Angelo, and one of
Bandinelli ; a head of Bernini, and a most lovely Cupid of Parian
marble; at the further end, two admirable women sitting, and a man
fighting wtb a Centaur ; 3 figures in little of Andrea ; an huge candle
stick of amber ; a table of Titian's painting, and another representing
God ye Father sitting in the aire on the 4 Evangelists ; animals ; divers
smaller pieces of Raphael; a piece of pure virgin gold as big as an egg.
In the third chamber of rarities is the square cabinet valued at 80,000
crownes, shewing on every front a variety of curious work ; one of
birds and flowers of Pietra Commessa ; one, a descent from the crosse,
of M. Angelo; on the third our Bl. Saviour and the Apostles, of amber;
and on the 4th a crucifix of yc same. 'Twixt the pictures two naked
Venus' s by Titian ; Adam and Eve by Durer ; and severall pieces of
Pordenone and del Frate. There is a globe of 6 foote diameter. In
the Armourie were an entire elk, a crocodile, and amongst ye harnesse
several targets and antiq horse armes, as that of Cha. V. Two set with
turcoises and other precious stones; a horse's taile of a wonderfull length.
Then passing the Old Palace, which has a very greate hall for feasts
and comedies, the roofe rarely painted, and the side walls with 6 very
large pictures representing batailes, the worke of Gio. Vassari. Here
is a magazine full of plate ; a harnesse of emeralds ; the furnitures of
an altar 4 foote high and six in length, of massy gold ; in the middle is
placed the statue of Cosmo II. the bass relievo's of precious stones, his
breeches cover'd wtb diamonds ; the mouldings of this statue, and other
ornaments, festoons, &c. are gamish'd with Jewells and great pearls,
dedicated to St. Charles, with this inscription in rubies :
Cosimus Secundus Dei gratia Magnus Dux Etruriae, ex voto.
There is also a King on horseback of massy gold 2 foote high, and an
infinity of such like rarities. Looking at the Justice in copper, set up

176 [FLORENCE. 1645-
on a column by Cosmo in 1555 after ye victory over Sienna, we. were
told that when the Duke asking a Gentleman how he liked the piece,
he answered that he liked it very well, but that it stood too high for
poore men to come at it.
Prince Leopold has in this Citty a very excellent collection of paint
ings, especialy a St. Catharine of P. Veroneze ; a Venus of marble, veiled
from the middle to ye feete, esteem'd to be of y* Greeke workman who
made the Venus at the Medici's Palace in Rome, altogether as good,
and better preserved, an inestimable statue, not long since found about
Bologna. Sigr Gaddi is a letter'd person, and has divers rarities, statues and
pictures of the best masters, and one bust of marble as much esteem'd
as the most antiq in Italy, arid many curious manuscripts ; his best
paintings are, a Virgin of del Sarto, mention'd by Vassari, a St. John
by Raphael, and an Ecce Homo by Titian.
The Hall of the Academie de la Crusca is hung about with impresses
and devices painted, all of them relating to corne sifted from the brann;
the seates are made like bread baskets and other rustic instruments us'd
about wheate, and the cushions of satin, like sacks.
We took our farewell of St. Laurence, more particularly noticing that
piece of the Resurrection, which consists of a prodigious number of
naked figures, the work of Pontarno. On the left hand is the Martyr
dom of St. Laurence by Bronzini, rarely painted indeed. In a Chapell
is the tomb of Pietro di Medici and his brother John, of coper, excel
lently designed, standing on 2 lions' feete which end in foliage, the
work of M. Angelo. Over against this are sepulchers of all the ducal
family. The altar has* a statue of the Virgin giving suck, and two
Apostles. Paulus Jovius has the honour to be buried in the cloister.
Behind the quire is the superb chapell of Ferdinand I. consisting of
eight faces, foure plaine, foure a little hollow'd, in the other are to be
ye sepulchres and a niche of paragon for the statue of the Prince now
living, all of coper gilt ; above is a large table of porphyrie for an
inscription for the Duke in letters of jasper. The whole Chapell, walls,
pavement, and roofe are full of precious stones united with ye mouldings,
which are also of gilded coper, and so are the bases and capitals of the

FLORENCE. 1645-] 177
columns. The tabernacle with ye whole altar is inlaid with cornelians,
lazuli, serpentine, achats, onyxes, &c. On the other side are 6 very
large columns of rock chrystal, 8 figures of precious stones of several
colours, inlayed in natural figures not inferior to yB best paintings,
amongst which are many pearls, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, sump
tuous and sparkling beyond description. The windows without side are
of white marble. The library is the architecture of Raphael ; before yc
port is a square vestibule of excellent art, of all ye orders without con
fusion ; the ascent to it from the library is excellent. We number'd
88 shelves, all MSS. and bound in red, chain'd; in all about 3500
volumes, as they told us.
The Arsenal has sufficient to arme 70,000 men, accurately preserv'd
and kept, with divers lusty pieces of ordinance, whereof one is for a
ball of 300 pounds weight, and another for 160 which weighs 72,500
pounds. When I was at Florence the celebrated masters were, for Pietra
Commessa (a kind of mosaiq or inlaying of various colour'd marble,
and other more precious stones) Dominico Benetti and Mazzotti ; the
best statuarie, Vincentio Brochi ; painter, Pietro Beretino di Cortona.
This statuary makes those small statues in plaster and pasteboard wch
so resemble coper, that till one handles them they cannot be distin-
guish'd, he has so rare an art of bronzing them. I bought 4 of him.
This Duke has a daily tribute for every courtezan or prostitute allowed
to practice that infamous trade in his dominions, and so has his holi-
nesse yfc Pope, but not so much in value.
Taking leave of our two jolly companions Sigr Giovanni and his fel
low, we tooke horses for Bologna, and by the way alighted at a villa
of the Grand Duke's called Pratoline. The house is a square of 4 pavi
lions, with a faire platform about it, balustred with stone, situate in
a large meadow, ascending like an amphitheater, having at the bottom
a huge rock with water running in a small channell like a cascade ;
on ye other side are ye gardens. The whole place seems consecrated to
pleasure and summer retirement. The inside of the palace may com
pare with any in Italy for furniture of tapissry, beds, Sec. and the gar
dens are delicious and full of fountaines. In the grove sits Pan feeding
vol,. 1. 2 a

1^8 [PRATOLINE. l645«
his flock, the water making a melodious sound through his pipe ; and
an Hercules whose club yields a shower of water which falling into a
greate shell has a naked woman riding on the backs of dolphins. In
another grotto is Vulcan and his family, the walls richly compos'd of
corals, shells, coper, and marble figures, with the hunting of severall
beasts, moving by ye force of water. Here, having ben well washed
for our curiosity, we went down a large walke, at the sides whereof
several slender streams of water gush out of pipes concealed underneath,
that interchangeably fall into each others channells, making a lofty and
perfect arch, so that a man on horseback may ride under it and not
receive one drop of wet. This canopy or arch of water, I thought one
of the most surprising magnificencies I had ever seene, and very refresh
ing in the heate of. the sum'er. At the end of this very long walk
stands a woman in white marble, in posture of a laundress wringing
water out of a piece of linen, very naturally formed, into a vast lavor
the work and invention of M. Angelo Buonarotti. Hence we ascended
Mount Parnassus, where the Muses plaied to us on hydraulic organs.
Neere this is a greate aviarie. All these waters came from the rock in
ye garden, on which is the statue of a gyant representing the Apen
nines, at the foote of which stands this villa. Last of all we came to
ye labyrinth in which a huge colosse of Jupiter throws out a streame
over the garden. This is 50 foote in height, having in his body a
square chamber, his eyes and mouth serving for windows and dore.
We tooke horse and supped that night at II Ponte, passing a dread-
full ridge of the Apennines, in many places capped wtb snow, which
covers them the whole sum'er. We then descended into a luxurious
and rich plaine. The next day we passed through Scarperia, mounting
the hills againe where the passage is so strait and precipitous towards
the right hand that we climbed them with much care and danger ;
lodging at Fiorenzuolo, which is a fort built amongst the rocks and
defending the confines of the greate Duke's territories.
The next day we passed by the Pietra Mala, a burning mountaine.
At the sum'it of this prodigious masse of hills we had an unpleasant
way to Pianura, where we slept that night and were entertain'd wtb
excellent wine. Hence to Scargalasino, and to bed at Loiano. This
plaine begins about six miles from Bologna.

BOLOGNA. 1645-J 179
This towne belongs to the Pope, and is a famous University, situate
in one of the richest spots of Europe for all sorts of provisions. 'Tis
built like a ship, whereof the Torre d'Asinello may go for the main
mast. The Citty is of no greate strength, having a trifling wall
about it, in circuit neere 5 miles, and 2 in length. This Torre d'Asinello,
ascended by 447 steps of a foote rise, seems exceedingly high, is very
narrow, and the more conspicuous from another tower call'd Garisenda
so artificially built of brick (which increases the wonder) that it seems
ready to fall : 'tis not now so high as the other, but they say the upper
part was formerly taken down for feare it should really fall and do
mischief. Next we went to see an imperfect Church cal'd St. Petronius, shew
ing ye intent of the founder had he gon on. From this our guide led
us to ye Schooles, which indeede are very magnificent. Thence to St.
Dominic's, where that saint's body lies richly inshrin'd. The stalls, or
seates of this goodly church have the historic of the Bible inlaied wth
severall woods very curiously don, the work of one Fr. Damiano di
Bergomo and a frier of that order. Amongst other reliques they shew
the two bookes of Esdras written with his own hand. Here lie buried
Jac. Andreas and divers other learn'd persons. To the Church joynes
the Convent, in ye quadrangle whereof are old cypresses, said to have
been planted by. their Saint.
Then we went to the Palace of the Legat, a faire brick building,
as are most of the houses and buildings tor the whole towne, full of
excellent carving and mouldings, so as nothing in stone seemes to be
better finish'd or more ornamentall ; witnesse those excellent columns
to be seene in many of their churches, convents, and publiq buildings,
for the whole towne is so cloyster'd that one may passe from house to
house through the streetes without being expos'd either to raine or sun.
Before ye stately hall of this Palace stands the statue of Paule IV.
and divers others ; also ye monument of the coronation of Charles V.
The Piazza before it is the most stately in Italy, St. Mark's at Venice
onely excepted. In the center of it is a fountain of Neptune, a noble
figure in coper. Here I saw a Persian walking about in a very rich
vest of cloth of tissue, and severall other ornaments, according to the

180 [bologna. 1645-
fashion of his country, which much pleased me ; he was a young hand-
som person, of the most stately mien.
I would faine have seene the Library of St. Saviour's, famous for ye
number of rare manuscripts, but could not, so we went to St. Francis's,
a glorious pile and exceedingly adorn'd within.
After dinner I enquired out a priest and Dr. Montalbano, to whom
I brought recom'endations from Rome ; this was he who invented or
found out the composition of the lapis illuminabilis, or phosphorus.
He shew'd me their property (for he had severall), being to retaine ye
light of the sun for some competent time, by a kind of imbibition, by a
particular way of calcination. Some of these presented a blew colour
Jike the flame of brimstone, others like coals of a kitchen fire. The
rest of the afternoone was taken up in St. Michael in Bosco, built on
a steepe hill on the edge of ye Citty, for its fabrick, pleasant shade
and groves, cellars, dormitory, and prospects, one of the most delicious
retirements I ever saw, art and nature contending which shall exceede ;
so as till now I never envied the life of a frier. The whole towne and
country to a vast extent are under com'and of their eyes, almost as far as
Venice itselfe. In this Convent there are many excellent paintings of
Guido Rheni, above all, the little cloister of 8 faces painted by Carracci
in fresco. The carvings in wood in the sacristy are admirable, as
is the inlay'd work about ye Chapell, which even emulates the best
paintings, the work is so delicate and tender. The paintings of St.
Saviour are of Carracci and Leonardo, and there are excellent things
of Raphael which we could hot see.
In the Church of St. John is a fine piece of St. Cecilia by Raphael.
As to other paintings, there is in the Church of St. Gregorie an excel
lent picture of a Bishop giving the habit of St. Bernard to" an arm'd
souldier, with severall other figures in the piece, the work of Guerchino.
Indeede this Citty is full of rare pieces, especialy of Guido, Domenico,
and a virgin named Isabella Sirani, now living, who has painted many
excellent pieces, and imitates Guido so well that many skilfull artists
have been deceiv'd.
At the Mendicants are the Miracles of St. Eloy by Rheni, after the
manner of Caravagio, but better ; and here they shew'd us that famous

BOLOGNA. 1645.] 181
piece of Christ calling St. Matthew, by Hannibal Carracci. The Mar
ques Magniani has ye whole freeze of his Hall painted in fresco by the
same hand.
Many of the religious men here nourish those lap-dogs which the
ladies are so fond of, and which they here sell. They are a pigmy sort
of spaniels, whose noses they break when puppies, which in my opinion
deforms them.
At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the dormitorie of
St. Michael I found a paper pasted neere the window, containing the
dimensions of most of the famous Churches in Italy compar'd with their
Toures here, and the length of this Gallery, a copy whereof I tooke.

St. Pietro di Roma, longo —

Braccia*.

Piedidi Bolognia.

Cana di Roma.

284

473

84

Cupola del murro, alta —

210

350"

60

Torre d'Asinello, alto —

208*

348

59pr> 6

Dorniitorio de St. Mich, a Bologn.

longo — — —

254

423 1

72f

From hence being brought to a subterranean territorie of cellars, the
courteous Friars made us taste a variety of excellent wines, and so we
departed to our Inn.
This Citty is famous also for sausages ; and here is sold greate quan
tities of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo, Caviare, &c. which makes
some of their shops perfume ye streetes with no agreeable smell. We
furnish'd ourselves with wash-balls, the best being made here, and
being a considerable commodity. This place has also been famous for
lutes made by the old masters, Mollen, Hans Frey, and Nicholas
Scpnvelt, which were of extraordinary price ; the workmen were cheifly
Germans. The cattle used for draught in this country (which is very
rich and fertile, especialy in pasturage) are cover'd with housings of
linnen fring'd at the bottome, that dangle about them, preserving them
from flyes, wcb in sum'er are very troublesome.
From this pleasant Citty we went now towards Ferrara, carrying
with us a bulletino or bill of health, (customary in all these parts of

* A measure of half an ell.

182 [ferrara". 1645.
Italy, especialy in the State of Venice,) and so put ourselves into a
boate that was tow'd with horses, often interrupted by the sluices (in
ventions there to raise the water for the use of mifls, and to fill the ar
tificial canalls) at every of which we stayed till passage was made. We
went by yc Castle Bentivoglio, and about night ariv'd at an ugly inn
call'd Mai Albergo, agreeable to its name, whence, after we had supp'd,
we embark'd and pass'd that night thro' the Fenns, where we were so
pestered with those flying glow-worms called Luecioli, that one who
had never heard of them would think the Country full of sparks of fire ;
beating some of them downe, and applying them to a book, I could
reade in the dark by ye light they afforded.
Quitting our boate we took coach, and by morning got to Ferrara,
where, before we could gain entrance, our gunns and armes were taken
from us of custom, the lock being taken off before as we were advis'd.
The Citty is in a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The
houses and streetes have nothing of beauty, except the Palace and
Church of St. Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried ; and there are some
good statues, the Palazzo del Diamante, Citadel, Church of St.
Dominico. The Market-place is very spacious, having in its center the
figure of Nicholao Olao, once Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in coper.
It is in a word a dirty towne, and tho' the streetes be large they re-
maine ill pav'd ; yet it is an University, and now belongs to the Pope.
Tho' there are not many fine houses in ye Citty, the inn where we
lodg'd was a very noble palace, having an Angel for its sign.
We parted from hence about 3 in ye afternoone^ and went some of
our way on ye Chanell, and then imbark'd on the Po, or Padus, by the
poets called Eridanus, where they faine Phaeton to have fallen after
his rash attempt, and where lo was metamorphos'd into a cow. There
was in our company, amongst others, a Polonian Bishop, who was
exceeding civill to me in this passage, and afterwards did me many
kindnesses at Venice. We supp'd this night at a place called Corbua,
neere the ruines of the ancient Citty Adria, which gives name to ye
Gulph, or Sea. After 3 miles, having passed 30 on the Po, we im-
barked in a stout vessell, and thro' an artificial chanell, very strait, we
entred the Adice, which carried us by breake of day into ye Adriatic,

VENICE. 1645.] 183
and so sailing prosperously by Chioza, (a towne upon an island in this
Sea,) and Palestina, we came over against Malamocco, (the cheife
port and ankerage where our English merchantmen lie that trade to
Venice,) about 7 at night, after we had stayed at least 2 houres for
permission to land, our bill of health being deliver'd according to cos-
tome. So soone as we came on shore we were conducted to the Do-
gana, where our portmanteaus were visited, and then we got to our
lodging, which was at honest Sigr. Paulo Rhodomante's at the Black
Eagle near the Rialto, one of the best quarters of the towne. This
journey from Rome to Venice cost me J pistoles and 13 julios.
June. The next morning, finding myself extreamly weary and
beaten with my journey, I went to one of their bagnios, where you are
treated after the Eastern manner, washing with hot and cold water,
with oyles, and being rubbed wtb a kind of strigil of seal's-skin, put on
the operator's hand like a glove. This' bath did so open my pores that
it cost me one of the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for want of
necessary caution in keeping myselfe warme for some time after; for
coming out I im'ediately began to visit the famous places of the Citty;
and Travellers who come into Italy do nothing but run up and downe to
see sights, and this Citty well deserved our admiration, being the most
wonderfully placed of any in the world, built on so many hundred
islands, in the very Sea, and at good distance from ye Continent. It
has no fresh water except what is reserv'd in cisterns from raine, and
such as is daily brought from terra firma in boates, yet there was no
want of it, and all sorts of excellent provisions were very cheape.
'Tis said that when the Huns overran Italy some meane fishermen
and others left the maine land and fled for shelter to these despicable
and muddy islands, which in processe of time, by industry, are growne
to the greatnesse of one of the most considerable States, considered as
a Republic, and having now subsisted longer than any of the foure an
cient Monarchies, flourishing in greate state, wealth, and glory, by
the conquest of greate territories in Italy, Dacia, Greece, Candy,
Rhodes, and Sclavonia, and at present challenging the empire of all
the Adriatiq Sea, which they yearly espouse by casting a gold ring
into it wtb greate pomp and ceremony on Ascension Day : the desire of
seeing this was one of the reasons that hastened us from Rome.

184 [VENICE. I645.
The Doge, having heard masse in his robes of state (which are very
particular, after the Eastern fashion,) together with ye Senat in their
gownes, imbark'd in their gloriously painted, carved, and gilded Bu-
centora, inviron'd and follow'd by innumerable gallys, gondolas, and
boates, filled wtb spectators, some dressed in masquerade, trumpets,
musiq, and canons ; having rowed about a league into ye Gulph, the
Duke at the prow casts a gold ring and cup into the Sea, at which a
loud acclamation is ecchoed from the. greate guns of the Arsenal and at
the Liddo. We then return'd.
Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water-coach (for
land^ones there are many old men in this Citty who never saw one, or
rarely a horse), we rowed up and downe the Channells, which answer
to our streetes. These vessells are built very long and narrow, having
necks and tailes of Steele, somewhat spreading at the beake like a
fishe's taile, and kept so exceedingly polish'd as to give a greate lustre ;
some are adorn'd with carving, others lined with velvet (commonly
black), with curtains and tassells, and the seates like couches, to
lie stretch'd on, while he who rowes stands upright on the very edge
of the boate, and with one oare bending forward as if he would fall
into the Sea, rows and turnes with incredible dexterity ; thus passing
from channell to channell, landing his fare or patron at what house he
pleases. The beakes of these vessells are not unlike the ancient Roman
rostrums. The first publiq building I went to see was the Rialto, a bridge of
one arch over the grand Canall, so large as to. admit a gaily to row
under it, built of good marble, and having on it, besides many pretty
shops, three ample and stately passages for people without any incon
venience, the two outmost nobly balustred with the same stone; a piece
of Architecture much to be admir'd. It was evening, and the Canall
where the Noblesse go to take the air, as in our Hide-park, was full of
ladys and gentlemen. There are many times dangerous stops by reason
of the multitude of gondolas ready to sink one another ; and indeede
they affect to leane them on one side, that one who is not accostom'd
to it would be afraid of over-setting. Here they were singing, playing
on harpsicords and other musick, and serenading their mistresses ; in

VENICE. 1645.] 185
another place racing and other pastimes on ye water, it being now ex
ceeding hot.
Next day I went to their Exchange, a place like ours frequented by
merchants, but nothing «o magnificent : from thence my guide led me
to the Fondigo di Todeschi, which is their magazine, and here many of
the merchants, especialy Germans, have their lodging and diet as in a
college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by Giorgione da
Castelfranco, and Titian himselfe.
Hence I pass'd thro' the Merceria, which is one of the most deli*
cious streetes in the world for the sweetnesse of it, and is all the way
on both sides tapistred as it were with cloth of gold, rich damasks and
other silks, which the shops expose and hang before their houses from
ye first floore, and with that variety that for neere halfe ye yeare spent
cheifly in this Citty I hardly remember to have seene ye same piece
twice expos'd ; to this add the perfumes, apothecaries shops, and
the innumerable cages of nightingales which they keepe, that enter
taine you with their melody from shop to shop, so that shutting
your eyes you would imagine yourselfe in the country, when indeede
you are in the middle of the Sea. It is almost as silent as the middle
of a field, there being neither rattling of coaches nor trampling of
horses. This streete, pav'd with brick and exceedingly cleane, brought
us thro' an arch into the famous Piazza of St. Marc.
Over this Porch stands that admirable Clock, celebrated next to
that of Strasburg for its many movements ; amongst which, about 12
and 6, which are their houres of Ave Maria when all the towne are
on their knees, come forth the 3 Kings led by a starr, and passing by
ye image of Christ in his Mother's armes do their reverence, and enter
into ye clock by another doore. At the top of this turret another auto
maton strikes *ye quarters ; an honest merchant told me that one day
walking in the Piazza, he saw the fellow who kept the Clock struck
with this hammer so forceably, as he was stooping his head neere the
bell to mend something amisse at the instant of striking, that being
stunn'd he reel'd over the battlements and broke his neck. The build
ings in this Piazza are all arch'd, on pillars, pav'd within with black
and white polish'd marble even to the shops, the rest of the fabrie as
vol. 1. 2 b

Ig6 [venice. 1645-
stately as any in Europ, being not only marble but the architecture is
of y° famous Sansovini, who lies buried in St. Jacomo at the end of
the Piazza. The battlements of this noble range of building are rail'd
with stone, and thick set with excellent statues, which add a great
ornament. One of ye sides is yet much more Roman-like than the
other which reguards the Sea, and where the Church is plac'd. The
other range is. plainly Gotiq : and so we entred into St. Marc's Church,
before which stand two brasse piedestals exquisitely cast and figur'd,
which beare as many tall masts painted red, on which upon greate fes
tivals they hang flags and streamers.. The Church is also Gotic; yet
for the preciousnese of the materials being of severall rich marbles,
aboundance of porphyrie, serpentine, &c. far exceeding any in Rome,
St. Peter's hardly excepted. I much admired the splendid historie of
our B. Saviour compos'd all of Mosaic over the faciata, below which and
over the cheife gate are four horses cast in coper as big as the life, the
same that formerly were transported from Rome by Constantine to By
zantium, and thence by the Venetians hither *. They are supported by
8 porphyrie columns of very great size and value. Being come into ye
Church, you see nothing, and tread on nothing, but what is precious. The
floore is all inlayed with achats, lazuli's, calcedons, jaspers, porphyries
and other rich marbles, admirable also for the work ; the walls sump
tuously incrusted and presenting to ye imagination ye shapes of men,
birds, houses, flowers, and a thousand varieties. The roofe is of most
excellent Mosaic; but what most persons admire is the new work of the
emblematic tree at the other passage out of the Church. In the midst
of this rich volto rise five cupolas, the middle very large and sustayn'd
by 36 marble columns, Sight of which are of precious marbles : under
these cupolas is ye high altar, on which is a reliquarie of severall sorts
of jewells, engraven with figures after the Greeke maner, and set to
gether wtb plates of pure gold.- The altar is cover'd with a canopy of
ophit, on which is sculptur'd the storie of the Bible, and so on the pil
lars, wcb are of Parian marble, that support it. Behind these are four
other columns of transparent and true Oriental alabaster, brought hither
* They were taken away by Buonaparte to Paris, but in 1815 were sent back to Venice. Edit.

VENICE. 1645-] 187
out of the mines of Solomon's Temple as they report. There are many
chapells and notable monuments of illustrious persons, Dukes, Cardi
nals, &c. as Zeno, Jo. Soranzi, and others : there is likewise a vast
baptisterie of coper. Among other venerable reliques is a stone on
which they say our Blessed Lord stood preaching to those of Tyre and
Sidon, and neere thedoore is an image of Christ, much ador'd, esteeming
it very sacred, for that a rude fellow striking it, they say, there gushed
out a torrent of blood. In one of the corners lies the body of St. Isi
dore, brought hither 500 years since from ye island of Chios. A little
farther they shew the picture of St. Dominic and Francis, affirm'd to
have ben made by the Abbot Joachim (many yeares before any of them
were born.) Going out of the Church they shew'd us the stone where
Alexander III. trod on ye neck of yu Emperor Fred. Barbarossa, pro
nouncing that verse of the psalm, " super basiliscum," &c. The dores
of ye Church are of massie coper. There are neere 500 pillars in this
building, most of them porphyrie and serpentine, and brought cheifly
from Athens and other parts of Greece formerly in their power. At
the corner of the Church are inserted into the maine wall four figures as
big as lite cut in porphyrie, which they say are the images of four bro
thers who poysoned one another, by which meanes there escheated to
ye Republiq that vast treasury of relicques now belonging to the Church.
At the other entrance that looks towards the Sea, stands in a small
chapell that statue of our Lady, made (as they affirme) of the same
stone or rock out of which Moses brought water to the murmuring
Israelites at Horeb or Meriba.
After all that is said, this Church is in my opinion much too dark and
dismal, and of heavy work ; the fabric, as is much of Venice both for
buildings and other fashions and circumstances, after the Greekes, their
next neighboures.
The next day, by favour of the French Ambassador 1 had admittance
with him to see the Reliquary call'd here Tresoro di San Marco, which
very few even of travellers are admitted to see. It is a large chamber
full of presses. There are twelve breast-plates, or pieces of pure golden
armour studded with precious stones, and as many crownes dedicated to
St. Mark by so many noble Venetians who had recovered their wives

188 [VENICE. 1645.
taken at sea by the Saracens ; many curious vases of achats ; the cap
or comet of the Dukes of Venice, one of which had a rubie set on it
esteemed worth 200,000 crownes ; two unicorns homes ; numerous vasas
and dishes of achat set thick with precious stones and vast pearles ;
divers heads of Saints inchas'd in gold ; a small ampulla or glasse with
our Saviour's blood ; a greate morcell of the real crosse ; one of the
nailes ; a thorn ; a fragment of ye column to which our Lord was
bound when scourged ; the standard or ensigne of Constantine ; a piece
of St. Luke's arme; a rib of St. Stephen; a finger of Mary Magda
lene ; numerous other things which I could not remember ; but a priest,
first vesting himselfe in his sacerdotals with the stole about his neck,
shew'd us the Gospel of St. Mark (their tutelar patron) written by his
own hand, and whose body they shew buried in the Church, brought
hither from Alexandria many years ago.
The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of P. Veroneze, espe
cialy the Magdalen.
A French Gentleman and myself went to the Courts of Justice, the
Senate-house, and Ducal Palace. The first Court neere this Church is
almost wholly built of several colour'd sorts of marble, like chequer
work on the outside ; this is sustain'd by vast pillars, not very shapely,
but observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three no two" are
alike. Under this fabrick is the Cloyster where Merchants meete mor
ning and evening, as also the grave Senators and Gentlemen, to confer of
state affaires in their gownes and caps like so many Philosophers ; 'tis
a very noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle stood two
square columns of white marble, carved, which they said had ben
erected to hang one of their Dukes on who design'd to make himselfe
Soveraigne. Going through a stately arch there were standing in
niches divers statues of greate value, amongst which is the so celebrated
Eve, esteem'd worth its weight in gold ; it is just opposite to ye staires
where are two Colossus's of Mars and Neptune by Sansovino. We went
up into a Coridore built with several Tribunals and Courts of Justice ;
and by a well-contriv'd stair-case were landed in the Senate-hall, which
appears to be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in Europ, being
76 paces long and 32 in breadth. At the upper end are the Tribunals of

venice. 1645-] 189
the Doge, Council of Ten, and Assistants ; in the body of the hall are
lower ranks of seates capable of containing 1500 Senators, for they
consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over the Duke's throne are the
paintings of the Final Judgment by Tintoret, esteem'd amongst the
best pieces in Europe. On the roofe are the famous Acts of the Repub-
lick painted by severall excellent masters, especialy Bassano; next them
are the Effigies of the several Dukes, with their Elogies. Then we
turned into a great Court painted with the Battail of Lepanto, an ex
cellent piece ; thence into the Chamber of the Council of Ten, painted
by the most celebrated masters. From hence, by the special favour of an
Illustrissimo, we were carried to see the private Armorie of the Palace,
and so to the same Court we first enter'd, nobly built of polish'd white
marble, part of which is the Duke's Court pro tempore ; there are two
wells adorn'd with excellent work in coper. This led us to the sea-side,
where stand those two columns of ophite stone in the intire piece, of a
greate height, one bearing St. Mark's Lion, the other St. Theodorus ;
these pillars were brought from Greece, and set up by Nic. Baraterius
the architect ; betweene them publique executions are performed.
Having fed our eyes with the noble prospect of ye Island St. George,
the gallies, gondolas, and other vessells passing to and fro, we walked
under the Cloyster on the other side of this goodly Piazza, being a
most magnificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went
into the Zecca, or Mint ; at the entrance stand two prodigious Giants or
Hercules of white marble : we saw them melt, beate, and coyne silver,
gold, and coper. We then went up into the Procuratorie, and a Li
brary of excellent MSS. and books belonging to it and the Publiq.
After this we climb'd up the Toure of St. Mark, which we might have
don on horseback, as 'tis said one of the French Kings did, there being
no stayres or steps, but retumes that take up an entire square on the
arches 40 foote, broad enough for a coach. This Steeple stands by
itselfe without any Church neere it, and is rather a watch toure in the
corner of ye greate Piazza, 230 foote in height, the foundation exceeding
deepe ;• on the top is au Angel y* turns wtb ye wind, and from hence is
a prospect down the Adriatic as far as Istria and the Dalmatian side,
with the surprizing sight of this miraculous Citty, which lies in the

190 [venice. 1645-
bosome of the sea, in the shape of a lute, the numberless Islands tacked
together by no fewer than 450 bridges. At the foote of this Toure is a
public Tribunal of excellent work in white marble polish'd, adorn'd with
several brasse statues and figures of stone in mezzo relievo, the worke
of some rare artist.
It was now Ascension Weeke, and the greate Mart or Faire of ye
whole yeare was now kept, every body at liberty and jollie. The noble
men stalking with their ladys on choppines; these are high-heel'd
shoes, particularly affected by these proude dames, or, as some say,
invented to keepe them at home, it being very difficult to walke with
them ; whence one being asked how he liked the Venetian dames, re
plied, that they were mezzo carne, mezzo ligno, half flesh, half wood,
and he would have none of them. The truth is, their garb is very odd,
as seeming allwayes in masquerade ; their other habits also totaly dif
ferent from all nations. They weare very long crisped haire, of severall
strakes and colours, which they make so by a wash, dischevelling it on
the brims of a broade hat that has no head, but an hole to put out their
heads by ; they drie them in the sunn, as one may see them at their
windows. In their tire they set silk flowers and sparkling stones, their
peticoates coming from their very arme-pits, so that they are neere
three quarters and an half apron; their sleeves are made exceeding
wide, under which their shift sleeves as wide, and commonly tucked up
to the shoulder, shewing their naked armes, thro' false sleeves of tiffany,
girt with a bracelet or two, with knots of points richly tagged about
their shoulders and other places of their body, which they usually cover
with a kind of yellow vaile of lawn very transparent. Thus attir'd they
set their hands on the heads of two matron-like servants or old women,
to support them, who are mumbling their beades. 'Tis ridiculous to
see how these ladys crawle in and out of their gondolas by reason of
their choppines, and what dwarfs they appeare when taken down from
their wooden scaffolds ; of these I saw near thirty together, stalking
halfe as high again as the rest of the world, for courtezans or the citi
zens may not weare choppines, but cover their bodies and faces with
a vaile of a certaine glittering taffeta or lustree, out of which they now
and then dart a glaunce of their eye, the whole face being otherwise

VENICE. 1645.] 191
entirely hid with it ; nor may the com'on misses take this habit, but
go abroad barefac'd. To the corners of these virgin-vailes hang broad
but flat tossells of curious Point de Venize ; the married women go in
black vailes. The nobility weare the same colour, but of fine cloth
lin'd wtb taffeta in Summer, with fur of the bellies of squirrells in ye
Winter, which all put on at a certaine day girt with a girdle emboss'd
with silver ; the vest not much different from what our Bachelors of
Arts weare in Oxford, and a hood of cloth made like a sack, cast over
their left shoulder, and a round cloth black cap fring'd with wool which
is not so comely ; they also weare their collar open to shew the diamond
button of the stock of their shirt. I have never seene pearle for colour
and bignesse comparable to what the ladys wear, most of the noble
families being very rich in Jewells, especialy pearles, which are always
left to the son or brother who is destined to marry, which the eldest
seldome do. The Doge's vest is of crimson velvet, the Procurator's,
&c. of damasc, very stately. Nor was I lesse surprised with the strange
variety of ye severall nations which were seen every day in the streetes
and piazzas ; Jews, Turks, Armenians, Persians, Moores, Greekes,
Sclavonians, some with their targets and boucklers, and all in their
native fashions, negotiating in this famous Emporium, which is allways
crowded with strangers.
This night, having with my Lord Bruce taken our places before, we
went to the Opera where comedies and other plays are represented in
recitative musiqby the most excellent musicians vocal and instrumental,
with variety of sceanes painted and contrived with no lesse art of per
spective, and machines for flying in the aire, and other wonderfull
motions ; taken together it is one of the most magnificent and expensive
diversions the wit of man can irfvent. The history was, Hercules in
Lydia ; the sceanes changed thirteen times. The famous voices, Anna
Rencia, a Roman, and reputed the best treble of women ; but there was
an eunuch who in my opinion surpass'd her ; also a Genoeze that sung
an incomparable base. This held us by ye eyes and eares till two in the
morning, when we went to the Chetto de san Felice, to see the noble
men and their ladies at Basset, a game at cards which is much used,
but they play not in public, and all that have inclination to it are iu

192 [fadua. 1645.,
masquerade, without speaking one word, and so they come in, play,
loose or gaine, and go away as they please. This time of licence is
onely in Carnival and this Ascension Weeke ; neither are their Theaters
open for that other magnificence or for ordinary comedians save on
these solemnities, they being a frugal and wise people and exact ob
servers of all sumptuarie laws.
There being at this time a ship bound for the Holy Land, I had re
solved to imbark, intending to see Jerusalem and other parts of Syria,
Egypt, and Turkey ; but after I had provided all necessaries, laid in
snow to coole our drink, bought some sheepe, poultry, biscuit, spirits,
and a little cabinet of drouggs in case of sickness, our vessell (whereoff
Capt. Powell was master) happen'd to be press'd for the service of the
State to carry provisions to Candia, now newly attacqued by the Turkes,
which altogether frustrated my designe, to my greate mortification.
On the . . . June we went to Padua, to the Faire of their St. Anthony,
in company of divers passengers. The first terra firma we landed at
was Fusina, being onely an inn, where we changed our barge and
were then drawne up by horses thro' the river Brenta, a strait chanell
-as even as a line for 20 miles, the country on both sides deliciously
adorned with country villas and gentlemen's retirements, gardens
planted with oranges, figs, and other fruit, belonging to ye Venetians.
At one of these villas we went ashore to see a pretty contriv'd Palace.
Observable in this passage was buying their water of those who farme
the sluices, for this artificial river is in some places so shallow that
reserves of water are kept with sluices, which they open and shut with
a most ingenious invention or engine, govern'd even by a child. Thus
they keep up the water/ or let it go, till the next channell be either
filled by the stop, or abated to the levell, of the other, for which every
boate pays a certaine dutie. Thus we stay'd neere halfe an houre and
more at three severall places, so as it was evening before we got to Padoa.
This is a very ancient Cittie if the tradition of Antenor's being the founder
be not a fiction ; but thus speakes the inscription over a stately gate :
Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium asylum, cujus agrum ferti-
litatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit an'o ante Christum natum
M.Cxviii, Senatus autem Venetus his belli propugnandis ornavit.

padua. 1645-] 193
The towne stands on the river Padus, whence its name, and is gene
rally built like Bologna on arches and on brick, so that one may walk
all round it, dry, and in the shade, wcb is very convenient in these hot
countries, and I think I was never sensible of so burning a heate as I
was this season,- especialy the next day, which was that of y* Faire,
fill'd with noble Venetians by reason of a greate and solemn procession
to their famous Cathedral. Passing by St. Lorenzo I met with this
inscription : Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem*
Transtulit hue Henetum Dardanidumq; fuga,
Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem,
Quem tegit hie huniili marmore csesa domus.
Under the tomb was a cobler at his work. Being now come to St.
Antonies (the streete most of ye way strait, well built, and outsides
excellently painted m fresco) we survey'd the spacious piazza, in which.
is erected a noble statue of coper of a man on horseback, in memorie
of one Catta Malata f, a renowned captaine. The Church a la Greca
consists of five handsome cupolas leaded. At the left hand within is
the tomb of St. Anthony and his altar, about wcb a mezzo relievo of
the miracles ascrib'd to him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by
the three famous sculptors Tullius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus,
and Hieron. Compagno. A little higher is the quire, wall'd parapet
fashion with sundry colour'd stone halfe relievo, the work of Andrea
Reccij. The altar within is of the same metall, which with the candle
stick and bases is in my opinion as magnificent as any in Italy. The
wainscot of the quire is rarely inlayed and carved. Here are the se
pulchres of many famous persons, as of Rodolphus Fulgosi, &c. and
among the rest one that for an exploit at sea has a gaily exquisitely
carved thereon. The Procession bore the banners with all the treasure
of the cloyster, which was a very fine sight.
Hence walking over the Prato delle Vaile, I went to see ye Convent
of St. Justina's, than wch I never beheld one more magnificent. The
* Keysler very justly observes that the first line of this inscription, conveys no meaning
Vol. III. p. 220, .
f Lassells calls him. Gatta Mela, the Venetian General; nicknamed Gala, because of his watch
fulness, p. 429.
VOL. i. 2c

I<j4 [padua. l645>
Church is an excellent piece of architecture of Andrea Palladio, richly
pav'd, with a stately cupola that covers the high altar inshrining the
ashes of y* Saint. It is of Pietra Commessa, consisting of flowers very
naturally don. The quire is inlay'd with severall sorts of wood repre
senting the holy history, finish'd with exceeding industry. At the far
end is that rare painting of St. Justina' s martyrdom by P. Veronese ;
and a stone on wcl' they told us divers primitive Christians had ben
decapitated. In another place (to wch leads a small cloister well
painted) is a dry well cover'd with a brasse-work grate wherein are the
bones of divers martyrs. They shew also the bones of St. Luke in an
old alabaster coffin /three of the Holy Innocents ; and ye bodys of St.
Maximus and Prosdocimus*. The Dormitory above is exceeding com
modious and stately, but what most pleas'd me was the old cloyster so
well painted with the legendarie Saints, mingled with many ancient
inscriptions, and pieces of urnes dug up it seemes at the foundation of
the Church. Thus having spent the day in rambles, I return'd the
next day to Venice.
The Arsenal is thought to be one of yc best furnish'd in yc world.
We entred by a strong port always guarded, and ascending a spacious
gallery saw armes of back, breast, and head, for many thousands ; in
another were saddles, over them ensignes taken from the Turks. An
other Hall is for the meeting of the Senat ; passing a graff are the
smiths forges, where they are continualy at work on ankers and iron
work. Neere it is a well of fresh water, which they impute to two
rhinoceros's horns which they say lie in it and will preserve it from
ever being empoison'd. Then we came to where the carpenters were
building their magazines of oares, masts, &c. for an hundred gallys and
ships, which have all their aparell and furniture neere them. Then
the founderie, where they cast ordinance ; the forge is 450 paces long,
and one of them has thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon weighing
16,573 lbs. cast whilst Henry the Third dined, and put into a gaily
built, rigg'd, and fitted for launching within that time. They have
also armes for 12 galeasses, wch are vessells to rowe, of almost 150
* St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua. Lassells, p. 430.

VENICE. 1645.] 195
foote long and 30 wide, not counting prow or poop, and contain 28
banks of oares, each 7 men, and to carry 1300 men, with 3 masts.
In another a magazin for 50 gallys, and place for some hundreds more.
Here stands the Bucentaur, with a most ample deck, and so contriv'd
that the slaves are not seene, having on the poop a throne for the Do<*-e
to sit, when he gos in triumph to espouse the Adriatic. Here is also a
gallery of 200 yards long for cables, and over that a magazine of hemp.
Over against these are their saltpetre houses, and a large row of cells
or houses to protect their gallies from yc weather. Over the gate as
we go out, is a roome full of greate and small guns, some of which
discharge six times at once. Then there is a court full of can'on, bul
lets, chaines, grapples, granados, &c. and over that armes for 800,000
men, and by themselves armes for 400 taken from some that were in a
plot against the State ; together with weapons of offence and defence
for 62 ships ; 32 pieces of ordnance on carriages taken from the Turks,.
and one prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, 'tis not to be reckoned
up what this large place containes of this sort. There were now 23
gallys, and 4 gally-grossi of 100- oares of a side. The whole Arsenal is
wall'd about and may be in compasse about 3 miles, with 12 towres for
ye watch, besides y* the sea invirons it. The Workmen, who are ordi
narily 500, march out in military order, and every evening receive their
pay thro' a small hole in ye gate where the Governor lives.
The next day I saw a wretch executed who had murther'd his master,
for wcb he had his head chop'd off by an axe y4 slid down a frame of
timber *, between the two tall columns in St. Mark's Piazza at the sea
brink ; the executioner striking on the axe with a beatle, and so the
head fell off the block.
Hence by Gudala we went to see Grimani's Palace, the portico
whereof is excellent work. Indeed the world cannot shew a Citty of
more stately buildings considering the extent of it, all of square stone,
and as chargeable in their foundations,vas superstructure, being all built
on piles at an immense c6st. We return'd home by the Church of St.
Johanne and Paulo* before which is in coper the statue of Bartolomeo
*¦ The maiden at Halifax, in Yorkshire, and the guillotine in France,

196 [VENICE. 1645*
Colone on horseback, double gilt, on a stately pedestal, the work of
And. Verrochio, a Florentine. This is a very fine Church, and has in
it many rare altar pieces of ye best masters, especialy that on the left
hand of yL Two Friers slaine, which is of Titian.
The day after, being Sunday, I went over to St. George's to yfc cere
monie of ye schismatic Greekes, who are permitted to have their
Church, tho' they are at defiance with Rome. They allow no carved
images, but many painted, especialy the story of their patron and his
dragon. Their rites differ not much from the Latines, save that of
communicating in both species, and distribution of the holy bread.
We afterwards fell into dispute with a Candiot concerning the proces
sion of ye Holy Ghost. The Church is a noble fabric.
The Church of St. Zachary is of Greeke building, by Leo ye 4th
Emp. and has in it the bones of that prophet with divers other Saints.
Neere this we visited St. Luke's, famous for the tomb of Aretine *.
Tuesday we visited severall other Churches, as Sta Maria, newly in-
crusted with marble on the outside, and adorned wtb porphyrie, ophit,
and Spartan stone. Neere the altar and under ye organ are sculptures,
that are said to be of the famous artist Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul
I went purposely to see the tomb of Titian. Then to St. John the
Evangelist, where amongst other heroes lies Andr. Baldarius, the in
ventor of oares applied to greate vessells for fighting.
We also saw St. Roch, the roofe whereof is, with the school or hall
of that rich confraternity, admirably painted by Tintoret, especialy the
Crucifix in ye sacristia. We saw also ye Church of St. Sebastian, and
Carmelites monasterie.
Next day taking our gondola at St. Mark's, I pass'd to ye Island of
St. George Maggiore, where is a Convent of Benedictines, and a well
built Church by Andrea Palladio, the greate architect. The pave
ment, cupola, choire, and pictures, very rich and sumptuous. The
* This epitaph has been made for this Satyrist and Atheist :
Here lies the man who no man spared,
When the angry fit was on him ;
Nor God himself had better fared,
•If Aretine had known him.

padua. 1645.] 197
cloyster has a fine garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, tho'
this is an island a little distant from ye Cittie ; it has also an olive
orchard all inviron'd by the sea. The new cloyster now building has a
noble stayrecase pav'd wth white and black marble.
From hence we visited St. Spirito and St. Laurence, faire Churches
in severall islands; but most remarkable is that of ye Padri Olivetani
in St. Helen's island, for the rare paintings and carvings, wlh inlay'd
work, &c.
The next morning we went againe to Padoa, where next day we
visited ye market, which is plentifully furnish'd and exceedingly cheape.
Here we saw ye greate hall, built in a spacious piazza, and one of ye
most magnificent in Europe ; its ascent is by steps a good height, of
a reddish marble polish'd, much us'd in these parts and happly found
not far off; 'tis almost 200 paces long and 40 in breadth, all cover'd
wtb lead, without any support of columns. At ye farther end stands the
bust in white marble of Titus Livius the historian. In this town is the
house wherein he was borne, full of inscriptions and pretty faire.
Neere to the monument of Speron Speronii, is painted on ye cieling
the celestial zodiaq and other astronomical figures ; without side there
is a corridor in manner of a balcony, of the same stone ; and at the
entrie of each of the three gates- is the head of some famous person, as
Albert Eremitano, -Jul. Paullo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In the
piazza is the Podesta and Capitano Grande's Palace, well built ; but
above all the Monte Pieta, the front whereof is of most excellent archi
tecture ; this is a foundation of which there is one in most of the Citties
in Italy, where there is a continual banq-of mony to assist yc poorer sort,
on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, together wtb magazines for
deposit of goods till redeemed.
Hence to ye Scholes of this flourishing and ancient University, espe
cialy for ye studie of physic and anatomie. They are fairly built in qua
drangle, with cloysters beneath, and above wtb columns. Over the greate
gate are the armes of ye Venetian State, and under ye lion of St. Marc :
" Sic ingredere ut teipso quotidie doctior ; sic egredere ut indies Patriae
Christianaaq; Reipublicae utilior evadas ; ita demiim Gymnasium a te feliciter
ornatum existimabit. cio.ix."

198 [padua. 1645:.
About ye court walls are carv'd in stone and painted the blazons 6f
the Consuls of all the nations that from time to time have had that
charge and honor in the Universitie, which at my being there was my
worthy friend Dr. Rogers, who here tooke that degree.
The scholes for ye lectures of the severall sciences are above, but none
of them comparable, or so much frequented as the theatre for anatomie,
which is excellently contriv'd both for the dissector and spectators. T
was this day invited to dinner, and in the afternoone (being 30 July)
received my Matricula, being resolved to spend some moneths here at
study, especialy physic and anatomie, of both which there was now the
most famous professors in Europe. My Matricula contained a clause,
that I, my goods, servants, and messengers, should be free from all
toll and reprises, and that we might come, pass, return, buy or sell,
without any toll, &c.
The next morning I went to see ye Garden of Simples, rarely fur
nish'd wtb plants, and gave order to ye gardener to make me a collection
of them for an hortus hyemalis, by permission of ye Cavalier Dr. Vest-
lingius, then Prefect and Botanic Professor as well as of Anatomie.
Next morning the Earle of Arundel *, now in this Citty, a famous
Collector of paintings and antiquities, invited me to go with him to see
ye Garden of Mantua, where as one enters stands a huge colosse of
Hercules. From hence to a place where was a roome cOver'd wtb a
noble cupola, built purposely for musiq; the fillings up, or cove 'twixt
the walls were of urnes and earthen pots for yc better sounding ; it was
also well painted. After dinner we walked to ye Palace of Foscari all'
Arena, there remaining yet some appearances of an ancient theater,
tho' serving now for a court onely before ye house. There were now
kept in it two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheepe, a stag, and sundry
foules, as in a vivarie.
Three days after, I return'd to Venice, and pass'd over to Murano,
famous for ye best glasses of the world, where having viewed their
furnaces and seene their work, I made a collection of divers curiosities
* The celebrated Thomas Earl of Arundel, part of whose collection was eventually procured
for the University of Oxford by Mr. Evelyn, and is distinguished by the name of Marmora
Arundeliana,

Venice. 1645-] 199
and glasses, which I sent for England by long sea. 'Tis the white
flints wcb they have from Pavia, which they pound and sift exceedingly
small and mix with ashes made of a sea-weede brought out of Syria,
and a white sand, that causes this manufacture to excell. The Towne
is a Podestaria by itselfe, at some miles distant on ye sea from Venice,
and like it built upon severall small islands. In this place are excellent
oysters, small and well tasted like our Colchester, and they were the
first, as I remember, that I ever could eate, for I had naturally an
aversion to them.
At our returne to Venice we met several gondolas full of Venetian
ladys, who come thus far in fine weather to take the aire, with musiq
and other refreshments. Besides that Murano is itselfe a very nobly
built Towne, and has divers noblemen's palaces in it and handsome
gardens. In coming back we saw ye Hands of St. Christopher and St. Michael,
the last of which has a Church inrich'd and incrusted with marbles and
other architectonic ornaments, which the Monkes very courteously
shew'd us. It was built and founded by Margaret iEmiliana of Verona,
a famous courtezan, who purchased a greate estate, and by this founda
tion hoped to commute for her sins. We then rowed by ye lies of
St. Nicholas, whose Church with the monuments of the Justinian
family entertain'd us awhile ; and then got home.
The next morning Capt. Powell, in whose ship I was to embark
towards Turkey, invited me on board, lying about 10 miles from Venice,
where we had a dinner of English pouder'd beefe and other good meate
with store of wine and greate gunns, as the manner is. After dinner
the Captaine presented me with a stone he lately brought from Grand
Cairo, which he tooke from the Mummy-pitts, full of hieroglyphics ;
I drew it on paper with the true dimensions, and sent it in a letter to
Mr. Henshaw to com'unicate to Father Kircher, who was then setting
forth his greate work Obeliscus Pamphilius, where it is described, but
without mentioning my name. The stone was afterwards brought for
me into England and landed at Wapping, where before I could heare
of it, it was broken into severall fragments and utterly defaced, to my no
small disappointment.

200 [VENICE. 1645.
The boatswaine of ye ship also gave me a hand and foote of a
mummy, the nailes whereof had been overlaid with thin plates of gold,
. and the whole body was perfect when he brought it out of Egypt, but
ye avarice of ye ship's crue broke it to pieces and divided the body
among them. He presented me also with two Egyptian idols, and
some loaves of ye bread which the Coptics use in ye Holy Sacrament,
with other curiosities.
8 August. I had newes from Padoa of my election to be Syndicus
Artistarum, which caused me after two days idling in a country villa
with ye Consul of Venice, to hasten thither, that I might discharge my
selfe of that honour, because it was not only chargeable, but would have
hind'red my progresse, and they chose a Dutch gentleman in my place,
which did not well please my countrymen, who had labour'd not a
little to do me the greatest honour a stranger is capable of in that
Universitie. Bejng freed from this impediment, and having taken
leave of Dr. Janicius, a Polonian, who was going physician in ye
Venetian gallys to Candy, I went againe to Venice, and made a col
lection of severall books and some toys. Three days after, I return'd
to Padoa, where I studied hard till the arival of Mr. Henshaw, Bram-
stone, and some other English gentlemen whom I had left at Rome,
and who made me go back with them to Venice, where I spent some
time in shewing them what I had seene there.
26 Sept. My dear friend, and till now my constant fellow traveller,
Mr. Thicknesse, being obliged to returne to England upon his parti
cular concerne, and who had served his Ma*? in the warrs, I accom
panied him part of his way, and on the 28th returned to Venice.
29. Michaelmas day, I went with my Lord Mowbray (eldest son to
the Earle of Arundell and a most worthy person) to see the collection
of a noble Venetian, Sign. Rugini. He has a stately Palace richly
furnish'd with statues and heads of Roman Emperors, all plac'd in an
ample roome. In the next was a cabinet of medals, both Latin and
Greek, with divers curious shells and two faire pearles in two of them ;
but above all he abounded in things petrified, wallnuts, eggs in which
ye yealk rattl'd, a peare, a piece of beefe with ye bones in itr an whole
hedge-hog, a plaice on a wooden trencher tum'd into stone and very

VENICE. 1645-] 201
perfect, charcoale, a morsel of cork yet retaining its levitie, sponges,
and a piece of taffety part roll'd up, with innumerable more. In
another cabinet supported by twelve pillars of Oriental achat and rail'd
about with chrystal, he shew'd us severall noble intaglias of achat,
especialy a head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath wtb her dog, some rare
cornelians, onixes, chrystals, &c. in one of which was a drop of water
not congeal'd, but moving up and down when shaken ; above all, a
diamond which had a very faire rubie growing in it ; divers pieces of
amber wherein were several insects, in particular one cut like an heart
that contained in it a salamander without the least defect, and many
pieces of Mosaic. The fabriq of this cabinet was very ingenious, set
thick with achats, turquoises, and other precious stones, in the midst
of wch was an antiq of a dog in stone scratching his eare, very rarely
cut and comparable to the greatest curiositie I had ever seene of that
kind for ye accuratenesse of the work. The next chamber had a bed
stead all inlay'd wtb achats, chrystals, cornelians, lazuli, &c. esteemed
worth 16,000 crownes ; but for ye most part ye bedsteads in Italy are
of forged iron gilded, since it is impossible to keepe the wooden ones
from ye chimices.
From hence I returned to Padoa, when that towne was so infested
wtb souldiers that many houses were broken open in the night, some
murders comitted, and the nunns next our lodging disturb'd, so as
we were forc'd to be on our guard with pistols and other fire-armes to
defend our doores ; and indeede the students themselves take a barba
rous liberty in the evenings when they go to their strumpets, to stop all
that passe by the house where any of their companions in folly are with
them ; this costome they call Chi vali. so as the streetes are very dan
gerous when the evenings grow dark ; nor is it easy to reforme this
intollerable usage where there are so many strangers of severall nations.
Using to drink my wine cool'd wtb snow and ice, as the manner
here is, I was so afflicted with an angina and soare-throat that it had
almost cost me my life. After all the remedies Cavalier Vestlingius,
cheife professor here, could apply, old Salvatico (that famous physi
cian) being call'd made me be cupp'd and scarified in the back in foure
places, which began to give me breath, and consequently life, for I was
vol. i. 2d

202 [paoua. 1645-
in ye utmost danger; but God being mercifull to me, I was after a
fortnight abroad againe, when changing my lodging I went over
against Pozzo Pinto, where I bought for winter provision 3000 weight
of excellent grapes, and pressed my owne wine, which proved incompa
rable liquor.
This was on 10 Oct. Soon after came to visite me from Venice
Mr. Henry Howard, grandchild to ye Earle of Arundel, Mr. Bramstone,
son to ye Lord Cheif Justice, and Mr. Henshaw, with whom I went
to another part of ye Citty to lodge neere St. Catherine's, over against
the Monasterie of Nunns, where we hired the whole house and lived
very nobly. Here I learned to play on yc theorba, taught by Sig.
Dominico Bassano, who had a daughter married to a Doctor of Laws,
that played and sung to nine severall instruments, with that skill and
addresse as few masters in Italy exceeded her ; she likewise compos'd
divers excellent pieces. I had never seene any play on the Naples viol
before. She presented me afterwards with two recitativos of hers, both
words and musiq.
31 Oct. Being my birth-day, the Nunns of St. Catharine's sent
me flowers of silk-work. We were very studious all this winter till
Christmas, when on twelfth day we invited all the English and
Scotts in towne to a feast, which sunk our excellent wine considerably.
1646. In January Sign. Molino was chosen Doge of Venice, but
the extreame snow that fell, and the cold, hindered my going to
see the solemnity, so as I stirred not from Padoa till Shrovetide
when all the world repaire to Venice to see the folly and madnesse of
theCarnevall; the women, men, and persons of all conditions disguising
themselves in antiq dresses, with extravagant musiq and a thousand
gambols, traversing the streetes from house to house, all places being
then accessible and free to enter. Abroad, they fling eggs fill'd with
sweete water, but sometimes not over sweete. They also have a bar
barous costome. of hunting bulls about ye streetes and piazzas, which is
very dangerous, the passages being generally narrow. The youth of
the severall wards and parishes contend in other masteries and pastimes,
so that 'tis impossible to recount the universal madnesse of this place
during this time of licence. The greate banks are set up for those who

VENICE. 1646.] 203
will play at bassett ; the comedians have liberty, and the operas are
open ; witty pasquils are thrown about, and the mountebanks have
their stages at* every corner. The diversion which cheifely tooke me up
was three noble operas, where were excellent voices and musiq, the
most celebrated of which was the famous Anna Rencha, whom we
invited to a fish dinner after foure daies in Lent, when they had given
over at the theater. Accompanied with an eunuch whom she brought
with her, she entertain'd us with rare musiq, both of them singing to
an harpsichord. It growing late, a gentleman of Venice came for her
to shew her yc gallys, now ready to sayle for Candia. This entertain
ment produced a second, given us by ye English Consul of ye mer
chants, inviting us to his house, where he had the Genoeze, the most
celebrated base in Italy, who was one of the late opera band. This
diversion held us so late at night, that conveying a gentlewoman who
had supped with us to her gondola at the usual place of landing, we
were shot at by two carbines from out another gondola in which was
a noble Venetian and his courtezan unwilling to be disturb'd, which
made us run in and fetch other weapons, not knowing what the matter
was, till we were 'informed of the danger we might incur by pursuing
it farther. Three days after this I tooke my leave of Venice, and went
to Padoa to be present at the famous Anatomie Lecture, which is
here celebrated with extraordinary apparatus, lasting almost a whole
moneth. During this time I saw a woman, a child, and a man dis
sected with all the manual operations of ye chirurgeon on the humane
body. The one was performed by Cavalier Vestlingius and Dr. Jo
Athelsteinus Leonaenas, of whom I purchased those rare Tables of
Veines and Nerves, and caus'd him to prepare a third of ye Lungs,
Liver, and Nervi sexti par: wth ye Gastric Veines, which I sent into
England, and afterwards presented to the Royall Society, being the first
of that kind that had been seen there, and for aught I know in ye
v^orld, tho' afterwards there were others. When ye Anatomie Lec
tures, which were in ye mornings, were ended, I went to see cures don
in the Hospitals ; and certainly as there are ye greatest helps and the
most skilfull physitians, so there are the most miserable and deplorable
objects to exercise upon. Nor is there any, I should think, so power-

204 [VENICE. 1646.
full an argum* against yc vice reigning in this lieentious Country, as to
be spectator of the miserie these poore creatures undergo. They are
indeede very carefully attended, and with extraordinary charity.
20 March. I return'd to Venice, where I tooke leave of my friends.
22. I was invited to excellent English potted venison at Mr. Hobb-
son's, a worthy merchant.
23. I tooke my leave of the Patriarche and ye Prince of Wir-
temburg, and Mons. Grotius (son of the learned Hugo) now going a
comander to Candia, and in the afternoone receiv'd of Vandervoort
my merchant, my bills of exchange of 300 ducats for my journey.
He shew'd me his rare collection of Italian books, esteem'd very
curious and of good value.
The next day I was conducted to the Ghetta, where the Jewes
dwell together as in a tribe or ward, where I was present at a marriage.
The bride was clad in white, sitting in a lofty chaire, and cover'd with
a white vaile ; then two old Rabbies joyned them together, one of
them holding a glasse of wine in his hand, which in the midst of the
ceremony, pretending to deliver to ye woman, he let fall, the breaking
whereof was to signify the frailty of our nature, and that we must ex
pect disasters and crosses amidst all enjoyments. This don, we had
a fine banquet, and were brought into ye bride-chamber, where the
bed was dress'd up wth flowers, and the counterpan strewed in workes.
At this ceremony we saw divers very beautifull Portuguez Jewesses,
with whom we had some conversation.
I went to y* Spanish Ambassador with Bonifacio his confessor, and
obtained his passe to serve me in the Spanish dominions, without which
1 was not to travel, in this pompous form :
" Don Caspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Senor Le Le-
rena y Verazuza, Comendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant Yago, Alcalde
Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de Ia Civdad de Sevilla, Gentilhombre de
la Camara de S. M. su Azemilero Mayor, de su Consejo, su Embaxador ex
traordinary a los Principes de Italia, y Alemania, y a esta serenissima Repub-
lica de Venetia, &c. Haviendo de partir de esta Ciudad para La Milan el
Sig' Cavallero Evelyn Ingles, con un Criado, mi han pedido Passa-porte para
los Estatos de su M. Le he mandado dar el presente, firmado de mi mano,

PADUA. 1646.] 205
y sellado con el sello de mis armas, por el qual encargo a todos los menestros
de S. M. antes quien le presentase y a' los que no lo son, supplico les dare pas-
sar libramente sin permitir que se le baya vexacion alguna antes mandar le
las favor para continuar su viage. Fecho en Venecia a 24 del mes de Marzo
dell an'o 1646. Mar. de la Fuentes, &c."
Having pack'd up my purchases of books, pictures, castes, treacle,
&c. (the making and extraordinary ceremonie whereof I had ben cu
rious to observe, for 'tis extremely pompous and worth seeing) I de
parted from Venice, accompanied with Mr. Waller (the celebrated
Poet), now newly gotten out of England, after ye Parliament had ex-
treamely worried him for attempting to put in execution ye Commis
sion of Aray, and for which the rest of his Collegues were hanged by
yb Rebells.
The next day I tooke leave of my comrades at Padoa, and receiving
some directions from Dr. Salvatico as to ye care of my health, I pre
pared for my journey towards Milan.
It was Easter Monday that I was invited to breakfast at the Earle
of Arundel's *. I tooke my leave of him in his bed, where I left that
greate and excellent man in teares on some private discourse of crosses
that had befall'n his illustrious family, particularly the undutifull-
iiesse of his Grandson Philip's turning Dominican Frier (since Car
dinal of Norfolk), and the miserie of his Countrie now embroil'd in
civil war. He caus'd his Gentleman to give me directions, all written
with his owne hand, what curiosities I should enquire after in my
journey ; and so, enjoyning me to write sometimes to him, I departed.
There stayed for me below, Mr. Henry Howard (afterwards Duke of
Norfolk), Mr. J. Digby son of Sir Kenelm Digby, and other gentle
men, who conducted me to the coach.
The famous Lapidaries of Venice for false stones and pastes so
as to emulate the best diamonds, rubies, &c. were Marco Terrasso and
Gilbert.

* Lassells, who travelled a short time after Mr. Evelyn, says, that the Earl died here, and that
lis bowels are buried under a black marble stone, inscribed " Interiora Tliomae Howard Comity .
Anjndeliae." p. 119.

206 [VINCENZA. 1646.
An Accompt of what Bills of Exchange I tooke up at Venice since
my coming from Rome, till my departure from Padoa :
11 Aug1 1645  200
7 Sept.  135
lOct'  100
15 Jan. 1646  100
23Aprill  300 835 Ducati di Banco.

In company then with Mr. Waller, one Capt. Wray (son of Sr
Christ1, . whose father had ben in armes against his Ma*y, and therefore
by no meanes wellcome to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and learned
man, we got that night to Vincenza, passing by ye Eugandan hills,
celebrated for the prospects and furniture of rare simples, which we
found growing about them. The wayes were something deepe, the
whole country flat and even as a bowling greene. The comon fields
lie square, and are orderly planted wtb fruite trees which the vines run
upon and embrace for many miles, with delicious streamcs creeping
along the ranges.
Vincenza is a Citty in ye Marquisate of Treviso, yet appertaining
to ye Venetians, full of gentlemen and splendid palaces, to which ye
famous Palladio, borne here, has exceedingly contributed, as having
ben the architect. Most conspicuous is the Hall of Justice ; it has a
toure of excellent work ; the lower pillars are of the first order ; those
in the three upper corridors are Doric ; under them are shops in a spa
cious piazza. The hall was built in imitation of that at Padoa, but of
a nobler designe, a la moderna. The next morning we visited y.e
Theater, as being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and
built by Palladio, in exact imitation of the ancient Romans, and ca
pable of containing 5000 spectators. The sceane, wcb is all of stone,
represents an imperial citty, ye order Corinthian, decorated with sta
tues. Over ye Scenario is inscribed, " Virtuti ac Genio Olympior:
Academia Theatrum hoc a fundamentis erexit Palladio Architect:

VINCENZA. I646.] 207
1584." The sceane declines 11 foote, the suffito painted with cloudes.
To this there joynes a spacious Hall for sollemn days to ballot in, and
a second for the Academics. In ye Piazza is also the Podesta, or Go,
vernor's house, the faciata being of yc Corinthian order, very noble.
The Piazza itselfe is so large as to be capable of justs and tournaments,
the Nobility of this Citty being exceedingly addicted to this knight
errantry and other martial diversions. In this place are two pillars in
imitation of those at St. Marc's at Venice, bearing one of them a
winged lion, the other the statue of St. Jo. Baptist.
In a word, this sweete Towne has more well-built Palaces than any of
its dimensions in all Italy, besides a number begun and not yet finished
(but of stately designe) by reason of the domestic dissentions 'twixt
them and those of Brescia, fomented by ye sage Venetians least by
combining they might think of recovering their ancient liberty. For
this reason also are permitted those dissorders and insolences committed
at Padoa among the youth of these two territories. It is no dishonor
in this country to be some generations in finishing their palaces, that
without exhausting themselves by a vast expence at once, they may at
last erect a sumptuous pile. Count Oleine's Palace is neere perfected
in this manner. Count Ulmarini * is more famous for his gardens,
being without ye walls, especialy his Cedrario or Conserve of Oranges
eleaven score of my paces long, set in order and ranges, making a
canopy all the way by their intermixing branches for more than 200 of
my single paces, and which being full of fruite and blossoms was a
most delicious sight. In the middle of this garden was a cupola made
of wyre, supported by slender pillars of brick, so closely cover'd with
ivy, both without and within, that nothing was to be perceived but
greene ; 'twixt the arches there dangled festoones of the same. Here
is likewise a most inextricable labyrinth.
I had in this towne recommendation to a very civil and ingenious
apothecarie call'd Angelico, who had a pretty collection of paintings.
I would faine have visited a palace call'd the Rotunda, which was a
mile out of towne belonging to Count Martio Capra, but one of our
* Lassells calls him Valmerana, p, 435.

208 [verona. l646«
companions hasting to be gone, and little minding any thing save
drinking and folly, caus'd us to take coach sooner than we should have
done. A little from the towne we pass'd ye Campo Martio, set out in imi
tation of ancient Rome, wherein ye noblesse exercise their horses, and
the ladys make the Corso ; it is entred by a stately triumphal arch, ye
invention of Palladio.
Being now set out for Verona, about midway we din'd at Ostaria
Nova, and came late to our resting-place, which was the Cavaletto,
just over the monument of the Scaligeri *, formerly Princes of Verona,
adorn'd with many devices in stone of ladders, alluding to ye name.
Early next morning we went about ye Citty, which is built on ye
gentle declivity and bottome of an hill, inviron'd in part with some
considerable mountaines and downes of fine grass like some places in
ye South of England, and on the other side having the rich plaine
where Caius Marius overthrew ye Cimbrians. The Citty is divided in
ye midst by ye river Athesis, over which are divers stately bridges, and
on its banks are many goodly palaces, whereof one is well painted in
chiaro oscuro on the outside, as are divers in this drie climate of Italy.
The first thing y* engaged our attention and wonder too, was the
amphitheater, which is the most entire of ancient remaines "now ex
tant. The inhabitants call it the Arena : it has two portico's, one
within ye other, and is 34 rods long, 22 in bredth, with 42 ranks of
stone benches or seates which reach fo ye top. The vastnesse of ye
marble stones is stupendious. " L. V. Flaminia Consul, ano. urb. con.
tin." This I esteeme to be one of the noblest antiquities in Europ,
it is so vast and intire, having escaped the ruines of so many other
public buildings for above 1400 yeares.
There are other arches, as that of ye victorie of Marius ; temples,
aquseducts, &c. shewing still considerable remaines in severall places
of the towne, and how magnificent it has formerly ben. It has three
strong castles, and a large and noble wall. Indeede, the whole Citty
is bravely built, especialy ye Senate house, where we saw those cele-

* Or della Scala.

VERONA. 1646.] 209
brated statues of Cornelius Nepos, Emilius Marcus, Plinius, and Vi-
truvius, all having honoured Verona by their birth, and of later date
Julius Casar Scaliger, that prodigie of learning.
In ye evening we saw ye garden of Count Giusti's villa, where are
walkes cut out of the maine rock, from whence we had ye pleasant pro
spect of Mantua and Parma, though at greate distance. At the en
trance of this garden growes the goodliest cypresse I fancy in Europ,
cut in pyramid ; 'tis a prodigious tree both for breadth and height, en
tirely cover'd and thick to ye base.
Dr. Cortone, a Civilian, shew'd us amongst other rarities a St. Do
rothea of Raphael. We could not see the rare drawings, especialy of
Parmensis, belonging to Dr. Marcello, another advocate, on account
of his absence.
This Citty deserv'd all those elogies Scaliger has honoured it with,
for in my opinion the situation is the most delightfull I ever saw, it is
so sweetly mixed with rising ground and vallies, so elegantly planted
with trees on which Bacchus seems riding as it were in triumph every
autumn, for the vines reach from tree to tree ; here of all places I have
seene in Italy would I fix a residence. Well has that leam'd man given
it the name of ye very eye of the world ; —
Ocelle mundi, Sidus Itali cceli,
Flos Urbium, flos corniculumq' amcenum,
Quot sunt, eruntve, quot fuere, Verona.
The next morning we travell'd over the downes where Marius
fought, and fancied ourselves about Winchester and the country
towards Dorsetshire. We dined at an inn call'd Cavalli Caschieri,
neere Peschiera, a very strong fort of the Venetian Republic, and
neere the Lago di Garda, which disembogues into that of Mantua,
neere 40 miles in length, highly spoken of by my Lord Arundel to
me, as the most pleasant spot in Italy, for which reason I observ'd it
with the more diligence, alighting out of the coach and going up to a
grove of cypresses growing about a gentleman's country house, from
whence indeede it presents a most surprizing prospect. The hills and
gentle risings about it produce oranges, citrons, olives, figs, and other
tempting fruits, and the waters abound in excellent fish, especialy
vol.. 1. 2 E

210 [ITALY. 1646.
troutts. In yfc middle of this lake stands Sermonea on an island ; here
Capt. Wray bought a pretty nag of the master of our inn where we
dined, for eight pistoles, which his wife, our hostesse, was so un
willing to part with, that she did nothing but kisse and weepe and .
hang about the horse's neck till the captaine rid away.
We came this evening to Brescia, which next morning we traverst
according to our custom in search of antiquities and new sights. Here
I purchas'd of old Lazarino Cominazzo my fine carabine, which cost
me 9 pistoles, this Citty being famous for these fire-armes, and that
workman, with Jo. Bap. Franco, the best esteem'd. This Citty con
sists most in artists, every shop abounding in gunns, swords, armorers,
&c. Most of the workmen come out of Germanic The Citty stands
in a fertile plaine, yet yc Castle is built on an hill. The streetes
abound in faire fountaines. The Torre della Pallada is of a noble
Tuscan Order, and the Senate-house is inferior to few. The Piazza is
but indifferent ; some of the houses arched as at Padoa. The Cathe
drall was under repaire. We would from hence have visited Parma,
Piacenza, Mantua, &c. but the banditti and other dangerous parties
being abroad, committing many enormities, we were content with a
Pisgah sight of them.
We din'd next day at Ursa Vecchia, and after dinner pass'd by an
exceeding strong fort of yc Venetians cal'd Ursa Nova, on their fron
tier. Then by the river Oglio and so by Sonano, where we enter the
Spanish dominions, and that night ariv'd at Crema, which belongs to
Venice, and is well defended. The Podesta's Palace is finely built,
and so is ye Domo or Cathedral and the Tower to it, with an ample
Piazza. Early next day, after 4 miles riding, we enter'd into the State
of Milan, and pass'd by Lodi *, a greate Citty famous for cheese
little short of the best Parmeggiano. We din'd at Marignano, 10 .miles
before coming to Milan, where we met halfe a dozen suspicious Cava
liers, who yet did us no harme. Then passing as through a continual
garden, we went on with exceeding pleasure, for it is the paradise of
* Famous for the victory gained by Buonaparte over the Austrians in 1796.

MILAN. 1646.] 211
Lombardy, the highways as even and straite as a line, the fields to a
vast extent planted with fruit about the inclosures, vines to every
tree at equal distances, and water'd with frequent streames. ' There
was likewise much come, and olives in aboundance. At approch of ye
Citty some of our company, in dread of ye Inquisition (severer here
than in all Spain), thought of throwing away some Protestant books
and papers. We arived about 3 in the afternoone, when the officers
search'd us thoroughly for prohibited goods, but finding we were onely
gentlemen travellers, dismiss'd us for a small reward, and we went
quietly to our inn, the Three Kings, where for that day we refreshed
ourselves, as we had neede. The next morning we delivered our let
ters of recommendation to ye learned and courteous Ferrarius, a Doctor
of the Ambrosian College, who conducted us to all the remarkable
places of the towne, the first of which was the famous Cathedral. We
enter'd by a portico so little inferior to y* of Rome, that when it is
finish'd it will be hard to say which is ye fairest ; the materials are all
of white and black marble, with columns of great height of Egyptian
granite. The outside of the Church is so full of sculpture, that you
may number 4000 statutes all of white marble, amongst wcb that of
St. Bartholomew is esteemed a masterpiece. The Church is very spa
cious, almost as long as St. Peter's at Rome, but not so large. About
the Quire the sacred storie is finely sculptured in snow-white marble,
nor know I where it is exceeded.' About ye body of the Church are
the miracles of St. Char. Boromeo, and in the vault beneath is his body
before the high altar, grated, and inclos'd in one of ye largest chrystals
in Europe. To this also belongs a rich treasure. The cupola is all of
marble within and without, and even cover'd with great planks of
marble, in the Gotick designe. The windows are most beautifully
painted. Here are two very faire and excellent organs. The fabriq is
erected- in the midst of a faire Piazza, and in the center of the Citty.
Hence we went to the Palace of the Archbishop, which is a quad
rangle, the architecture of Theobaldi, who design'd much for Philip II.
in the Escurial, and has built much in Milan. Hence I went into ye
Governor's Palace, who was Constable of Castile ; tempted by the
glorious tapissries and pictures, I adventur'd so far alone, that peeping

212 [milan. 1646
into a chamber where the greate man was under the barber's hands, he
sent one of his Negro's (a slave) to know what I was ; I made the best
excuse I could, and that I was only admiring the pictures, which he
returning and telling his lord, I heard the Governor reply that I was
a spie, on which I retir'd with all the speede I could, pass'd the guard
of Swisse, got into the streete, and in a moment to my company, who
were gone to the Jesuites Church, which in truth is a noble structure,
the front especialy, after ye moderne. After dinner we were conducted
to St. Celso, a church of rare architecture, built by Bramante ; the
carvings of the marble faciata are by Hannibal Fontana, whom they
esteeme at Milan equal to the best of the ancients. In a roome joyn-
ing to the Church is a marble Madona like a Colosse, of the same
sculptor's work, wcb they will not expose to the aire. There are two
Sacristias, in one of which is a fine Virgin of Leonardo da Vinci, in
the other is one by Raphael d'Urbino, a piece which all the world ad
mires. The Sacristan shew'd us a world of rich plate, Jewells, and
embroder'd copes, which are kept in presses.
Next we went to see ye Greate Hospital, a quadrangular Cloyster of
avast compasse, a truly royal fabric, with an annua] endowment of
50,000 crowns of gold. There is in the middle of it a crosse building
for the sick, and just under it an altar so plac'd as to be seene in all
places of ye Infirmarie.
There are divers Colleges built in this quarter, richly provided for
by ye same Borromeo and his nephew ye last Card1 Frederico, some not
yet finish'd, but of excellent designe.
In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly lay the bodyes of the 3 Magi,
since translated to Colin '(Cologne) in Germany; they however pre
serve ye tomb, which is a square stone, on which is engraven a star,
and under it, " Sepulchrum trium Magorum."
Passing by St. Laurence we saw 16 columns of marble, and ye ruins
of a Temple of Hercules, with this inscription yet standing :
Imp. Caesari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medico Parthico Max. Trib.
Pot. VII. Imp. II1I. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini pij Divi Hadriani Nepoti
Divi Trajani Parthici Pro Nepoti Divi Nervae Abnepoti Dec. Dec.

MILAN. 1646.] 213
We concluded this day's wandring at the Monasterie of Madona della
Gratia, and in the Refectorie admir'd that celebrated Coena Domini of
Leonardo da Vinci, which takes up the intire wall at the end, and is
the same that the greate Virtuoso Francis the First of France was so
enamour'd of, that he consulted to remove the whole wall by binding
it about with ribs of iron and timber to convey it into France. It is
indeede one of the rarest paintings that was ever executed by Leonardo,
who was long in ye service of that Prince, and so deare to him that ye
King coming to visite him in his old age and sicknesse, he expired in
his armes. But this incomparable piece is now exceedingly impair'd *.
Early next morning came the learned Dr. Ferarius to visite us, and
took us in his coach to see the Ambrosian Librarie, where Card1. Fred.
Borromeo has expended so vast a sum on this building and in furnishing
with curiosities, especialy paintings and drawings of inestimable value
amongst painters. It is a schole fit to make the ablest artists. There
are many rare things of Hans Breugill, and amongst them ye Four
Elements. In this room stands the glorious [boasting] inscription of
Cavaliero Galeazzo Arconati, valueing his gift to the librarie of severall
drawings by Da Vinci, but these we could not see, the keeper of them
being out of towne and he always carrying the keys with him ; but mv
Lord Martial, who had seene them, told me all but one booke are
small, that an huge, folio contain'd 400 leaves full of scratches of
Indians, &c. but whereas the inscription pretends that our King Charles
had offer'd a^.1,000. for them, the truth is, and my Lord himselfe told
me, that it was he who treated with Galeazzo for himselfe in the name
and by permission of the King, and that the Duke of Feria, who was
then Governour, should make the bargain : but my Lord having seene
them since, did not think them of so much worth.

* It is not noticed in the Painter's Voyage of Italy, published 1679, probably from its decay.
The painting is still there, but having been often retouched, on account of the dampness of the
wall, is certainly not what it once was. The picture has been again drawn into notice in England
from the magnificent print of it lately engraved in Italy by Raphael Morghen, which is esteemed
one of the finest works of art in this kind that has ever been executed. There is also an old en
graving from it by Peter Soutman, but which by no means exhibits a true delineation of the cha
racters of the piece, as designed by Leonardo,,

214 [MILAN. I646.
In the great roome, where is a goodly librarie, on ye right hand of
yc doore is a small wainscot closset furnish'd wtb rare manuscripts. Two
original letters of ye Grand Signor were shew'd us, sent to two Popes,
one of which was (as I remember) to Alexr VI. (Borgia), and the other
mentioning the head of the launce wch pierc'd our B. Saviour's side
sent as a present to ye Pope: I would faine have gotten a copy of
them, but could not ; I hear, however, that they are since translated
into Italian, and that therein is a most honourable mention of Christ.
We revisited St. Ambrose's Church. The high altar is supported by
4 porphyrie columns, and under it lie the remaines of that holy man.
Neere it they shew'd us a pit or well (an obscure place it is) where they
say St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine and recited ye Te Deum, for
so imports the inscription. The place is also famous for some Councils
that have ben held here, and for the coronation of divers Italian Kings
and Emperors, receiving the Iron Crown from the Archbishop of this
see *. They shew the History by Josephus written on the bark of trees.
The high altar is wonderfully rich.
Milan is one of the most princely Ci tries in "Europe : it has no
suburbs, but is circled wth a stately wall for 10 miles, in ye center of a
country that seemes to flow with milk and hony. The aire is excellent ;
the fields fruitfull to admiration, the market abounding with all sorts of
provisions. In the Citty are neere 100 Churches, 71 Monasteries,
40,000 inhabitants ; it is of a circular figure, fortified with bastions,
full of sumptuous palaces and rare artists, especialy for works in
chrystal, which is here cheape, being found among the Alpes. They
are curious straw worke among the nunns, even to admiration. It has
a good river, and a citadell at some small distance from ye Citty, com
manding it, of greate strength for its works and munition of all kinds.
It was built by Galeatius the Second, and consists of 4 bastions, and
works at ye angles and fronts ; the graff is fac'd with brick to a very
great depth ; has 2 strong towres as one enters, and within is another
fort and spacious lodgings for ye souldiers and for exercising them.
No accommodation for strength is wanting, and all exactly uniforme.

* Buonaparte took it and<gnrt it on his own head.

MILAN. I646.] 215
They have here also all sorts of work and tradesmen, a greate
magazine of armes and provisions. The fosse is of spring water with
a mill for grinding corn, and the ramparts vaulted underneath.
Don Juan Vasquez Coronada was now Governor ; the garrison Spa
niards onely.
There is nothing better worth seeing than the collection of Sigr.
Septalla *, a canon of St. Ambrose, famous over Christendome for his
learning and virtues. Amongst other things he shew'd us an Indian
wood that has the perfect scent of civet; a flint or pebble, that has a
quantity of water in it, wch is plainly to be seen, it being cleare as achat;
divers chrystals that have water moving in them, some of them having
plants, leaves, and hogs bristles in them ; much amber full of insects,
&c. and divers things of woven amianthus -J\
Milan is a sweete place, and tho' the streetes are narrow they abound
in rich coaches, and are full of noblesse, who frequent the course every
night. Walking a turn in the Portico before ye Dome, a cava Hero who
pass'd by hearing some of us speaking English, looked a good while
earnestly on us, and by and by sending his servant desir'd we would
honour him the next day at dinner. We looked on this as an odd
invitation, he not speaking to us himselfe, but we returned his civilitie
with thanks, tho' not fully resolv'd what to do, or indeed what might
be the meaning of it in this jealous place ; but on enquirie 'twas told
us lie was a Scots Colonel who had an honorable command in the Citty,
so that we agreed to go. This afternoone we were wholly taken up in
seeing an opera represented by some Neapolitans, performed all in
excellent music with rare sceanes, in which there acted a celebrated
beauty. Next morning we went to the Colonel's, who had sent his servant
* The Painter's Voyage particularizes 85 pictures in this Collection, but few of them by great
Masters. f There are two descriptive Catalogues of the Museum; in its day, one of the most celebrated
in all Italy ; both are in small quarto, the one in Latin, the later and most complete one in
Italian. To this is prefixed a large inside view of the Museum, exhibiting its curious contents, of
busts, statues, pictures, urns, and every kind of rarity natural and artificial.
Keysler in his Travels laments the not being able to see it, on account of a law-suit then
depending, and it has been long since dispersed, probably in consequence of it.

216 [MILAN. 1646.
againe to conduct us to,h^s house, which we found to be a noble palace
richly furjfish'd. There were other guests, < all souldiers, one of them
a,^cotch^nan, but we qoi^ld i>ot leam, one of their names. At dinner
he excus'd his jrjidenessejtl^t he had not himselfe spoken to us, telling
us it was his custome .wfien , he heard of any English travellers (who
butrarely would.be kpowne to passe thro' that Citty for feare of the
Inquisition) to invite" them to , his. house, where they might be free.
We, had a sumptuous dinner, ( and ihe wine was so tempting that after
some healths had, gon about, and we lhad risen from table, the Colonel
led us into his hall, where there hung up divers colours, saddles,
bridles, pistols, and other armes, being trophies ^which he had taken
with his owne hands from .the enemy ; amongst them he would needs
bestow a paire of pistols on Capt. Wray, one of our fellow-travellers
and a good drinking gentleman, and on me a Turkish bridle woven with
silk and very curiously emboss'd, with other silk trappings, to which
hung a. halfe moone finely wrought, which he had taken from a basshaw
whom he had slaine. With this glorious spoile, 1 rid the rest Of my
journey as far as Paris, and brought it , afterwards into England. He
then shew'd us a stable of brave horses, with his menage and cavale-
rizzo. Some of the horses he caus'd to be brought out^ which he
mounted, and performed all the motions of an excellent, horseman.
When this was don, and he had alighted, contrary to the advice of
his groome and page, who knew ye nature of yc beast and that their
master was a little spirited with wine, he would have a fiery horse
that had not yet been menaged and was very ungovernable, but was
otherwise a very beautifull .'creature; this he mounting, ye horse getting
ye reines in a full carriere, rose so desperately that he fell quite back,
crushing the Colonel! so forceably against the wall of the menage, that
tho' he sat on him like a Centaure, yet recovering the jade on all foure
againe, he desir'd to be taken down and so led in, where he cast him
self on a pallet, and with infinite lamentations, after some time we
tooke leave of him being now speech lesse. The next morning going
to. visite him, we found before the doore the canopie which they usually
carry over y° host, and some with lighted tapers, which made us
suspect he was in very sad condition, and so indeede we found him,

MILAN. 1646.] 217
an Irish Frier standing by his bed side as confessing him, or at least
disguising a confession, and other ceremonies us'd in extremis, for we
afterwards learn'd that the gentleman was a Protestant and had this
Frier his confidant, which was a dangerous thing at Milan, had it ben
but suspected. At our enterance he sighed grievously and held up
his hands, but was not able to speake. After vomiting some blood, he
kindly tooke us all by the hand, and made signes that he should see us
no more, which made us take our leave of him with extreame reluctancy
and affliction for the accident. This sad disaster made us consult about
our departure as soon as we could, not knowing how we might be
enquir'd after or engag'd, the Inquisition being so cruelly formidable
and inevitable on the least suspicion. The next morning, therefore,"
discharging our lodgings, we agreed for a coach to carry us to the foote
of ye Alpes, not a little concern'd for the death of yc Colonell, which we
now heard of, and who had so courteously entertain'd us.
The first day we got as far as Castellanza, by which runs a consi
derable river into Lago Maggiore ; here at dinner were two or three
Jesuites, who were very pragmatical and inquisitive, whom we declin'd
conversation with as decently as we could: so we pursu'd our journey
thro' a most fruitfull plaine, but the weather was wet and uncomfort
able. At night we lay at Sesto.
The next morning leaving; our coach we embarked in a boate to
carry us over ye Lake (being one of the largest in Europe) and whence
We could see the touring Alps, and amongst them the greate San Ber
nardo, esteemed ye highest mountaine in Europe, appearing to be
some miles above the clouds. Thro' this vast water passes the river
Ticinus, wcb discharges itselfe into ye Po, by which meanes Hel
vetia transports her merchandizes into Italy, which we now begin to
leave behind us.
Having now sailed about two leagues, we were hal'd ashore at
Arona, a strong towne belonging to the Dutchy of Milan, where
being examin'd by the Governor and paying a small duty, we were
dismiss'd. Opposite to this fort is Angiera, another small towne, the
passage very pleasant with the prospect of the Alps cover'd with
pine and fir trees, and above them snow. We pass'd the pretty Island
vol. 1. 2 1'

2ig [the alps. 1646.
Isabella*, about the middle of the Lake, on which is a faire house built on
amount, indeede the whole island is a mount ascended by several ter
races and walks all set about with orange and citron trees.
The next we saw was Isola + , and we left on our right hand the Isle
of St. Jovanni +, and so sailing by another small towne built also on an
island, we ariv'd at night at Margazzo, an obscure village at the end
of the Lake, and at the .very foote of the Alpes, which now rise as it
were suddenly after some hundreds of miles of the most even country in
the world, and where there is hardly a stone to be found, as if Nature
had here swept up the rubbish of the Earth in the Alpes to forme and
cleare the Plaines of Lombardy, which we had hitherto pass'd since
our coming from Venice. In this wretched place I lay on a bed stuff'd
with leaves, which made such a crackling, and did so prick my skin
thro' the tick, that I could not sleepe. The next morning I was fur
nish'd with an asse, for we could not get horses ; instead of stirrups we
had ropes tied with a loope to put our feete in, which supplied the
place, of other trappings. Thus with my gallant steed, bridled with my
Turkish present, we pass'd thro' a reasonably pleasant but very narrow
valley till we came to Duomo, where we rested, and having shew'd
the Spanish Passe, ye Governor would presse another on us that his
Secretary might get a croune. Here we exchang'd our asses for mules,
sure footed on the hills and precipices, being accustom'd to passe them ;
hiring a guide, we were brought that night thro' very steepe, craggy
and dangerous passages to a village called Vedra, being the last of
the King of Spain's dominions in yc Dutcby of Milan. We had a very
infamous wretched lodging.
The next morning we mounted again thro' strange, horrid andfearfull
, craggs and tracts, abounding in pine trees, and onely inhabited by
beares, wolves, and wild goates ; nor could we any where see above a
pistol shoote before us, the horizon being terminated with rocks and
mountaines, whose tops cover'd with snow seem'd to touch ye skies,
and in many places pierced the clowdes. Some of these vast mountaines
were but one entire stone, 'twixt whose clefts now and then precipitated
* t + These are called " the Borromean Islands in the Lago Maggiore,- belonging, to the great
Milanese family of Borromeo."

THE ALPS. 1646.] 219
greate. cataracts of mealted snow and other waters, which made a ter
rible roaring, echoing from ye rocks and cavities ; and these waters in
some places breaking in the fall wett us as if we had pass'd thro' a
mist, so as we could neither see nor heare one another, but trusting to
our honest mules we jogged on our way. The narrow bridges in some
places, made onely by felling huge fir trees and laying them athwart
from mountaine to mountaine over cataracts of stupendious depth, are
very dangerous, and so are the passages and edges made by cutting
away the maine rock ; .others in steps ; and in some places we passe be
tweene mountains that have ben broken and fallen on one another, which
is very terrible, and one had neede of a sure foote and steady head to
climb some of these precipices, besides that they- are harbours for beares
and wolves who have sometimes assaulted travellers. In these straights
we frequently alighted, now freezing in the snow, and anon frying by
the reverberation of the sun against the cliffs as we descend lower, when
we meete now and then a few miserable cottages so built upon the de
clining of the rocks as one would expect their sliding down. Amongst
these inhabite-a goodly sort of people having monstrous gullets or
wenr.s of fleshe growing to their throats, some of which I have seene
as.big as an hundred pound bag of silver hanging under their chinns,
among the women especialy, and that so ponderous as that to ease
them many wear linen cloth bound about their head and coming under
the chin to support it ; but quis tumidum guttur miratur in Alpibus?
Their drinking so much snow-water is thought to be the cause of it ;
the men using more wine are not so strumous as the women. The truth
is, they are a peculiar race of people, and many greate water drinkers
here have not these prodigious tumours ; it runs as we say in the bloud,
and is a vice in the race, and renders them so ugly, shrivel'd and de-
form'd by its drawing the skin of the face downe, that nothing can be
more fritefull ; to this add a strange puffing dress, furrs, and ye barba
rous language, being a mixture of corrupt High German, French and
Italian. The people are of greate stature, extreamely fierce and rude,
yet very honest and trustie.
This night thro' almost unaccessible heights we came in prospect of
Mons Sempronius, now Mount Sampion, which has on its sum'it a

220 [the ALPS. 1646.
few liuts and a chapell. Approching this, Captaine Wray's' water-spa
niel (a huge .filthy cur that had follow'd him out of England) hunted an
heard of.goates downe the roeksJ into a river made by the melting of the
snow. Ariv'd at our ieo\d harbour (tho' the house had a stove in every
roome) and supping on cheese and milk with wretched wine, we went
to bed in cupbords^ so high from the floore that we climb'd them by a
ladder; we were covered with feathers, that is we lay between two ticks
stuff 'd with them, and all little enough to keepe one warme. The
cielings of the rooms are strangely low for those tall people. The. house
was now, in September, halfe cover'd with snow; nor is there a tree or
bush growing within many miles.
From this uncomfortable place we prepared to hasten away the next
morning, but as we were getting on our mules, comes a huge young
fellow demanding mony for a goat wch he affirm'd that Capt. Wray's
dog had kill'd ; expostulating ye matter and impatient of staying in the
cold, we set spurrs and endeavour'd to ride away, when a multitude of
people being by this time gotten together about us (for it being Sonday
morning and attending for the priest to say masse) they stopp'd our
mules, beate us off our saddles, and disarming us of our carbines, drew
us into one of the roomes of our lodging, and set a guard upon us. Thus
we continu'd prisoners till masse was ended, and then came halfe a score
grim Swisse, who taking on them to be magistrates sate 'downe on the
table, and condemn'd us to pay a pistole for the goate and ten more for
attempting to ride away, threatening that if we did not pay it speedily,
they would send us to prison and keep us to a day of publiq justice,
where, as they perhaps wouldhave exaggerated the crime, for they pre
tended we had prim'd our carbines and would have shot some of them
(as indeede the Captaine was about to do) we might have had our heads
cut off, as we Were told afterwards, for that amongst these rude people
a very small misdemeanor dos often meete that sentence. Tho' the
proceedings appear' d highly unjust-}*, on consultation among ourselves
Ave "thought it safer to rid ourselves out of their hands and the trouble
* They have such in Wales.
t Surely these poor people were right, and this is not; expressed with Mr. Evelyn'9 usual
liberality.

THE ALPS.. 1646.] 221
we were brought Hntoj- and therefore we patiently layd downe the mony
and with; fierce (countenances had our mules and armes deliver'd to us,
apd: glad we were to escape as we did. This was cold en tertai timent
ibj&t our journey after was colder, the rest of the way having ben as they
told us cover'd with snow since the Creation ; no man remember'd it to
be. without; and because by the frequent snowing the tracts are continualy
fill'd up, we passe by severall tall masts set up to guide travellers, sO as
fpr many miles they stand in ken of one another like to our beacons. -In
some places where, there is a cleft between 2 mountaines the snow fills
it up, whilst the bottome being thaw'd leaves as it were a frozen arch of
snow, and that. so hard as to beare the greatest weight; for as it snows
often, so it perpetualy freezes, of which I was so sensible that it flaw'd
ye very skin of my face.
Beginning now to descend a little, Capt. Wray's horse (that was
our sumpter and carried all our baggage) plunging thro' a bank of loose
snow slid downe a- frightfull precipice, which so incens'd the choleriq
cavalier his master that he was sending a brace of bullets into the poore
beast, least our guide should recover him and run away with his bur
den ; but just as he was lifting up his carbine we gave such a shout,
and so pelted ye horse with snow-balls., as with all his might plunging
through the snow he fell from another steepe place into another bot
tome neere a path we were to passe. It was yet a good while ere we
got to him, but at last we recover'd the place, and easing him of his
charge hal'd him out of the snow, where he had ben certainly frozen
in if we had not prevented it before night. It was as we judgM
almost two miles that he had slid and fall' n, yet without any other
harme than the benuming of his limbs for ye present, but with
lusty rubbing and chafing he began to move, and after a little walking
perform'd his journey well enough. 'All this way, affrited with the
disaster of this horse, we trudg'd on foote driving our mules before
us ; sometimes we fell, sometimes we slid thro' this ocean of snow,
which after October is impassable.. Towards night we came into a
larger way, thro' vast woods of pines which clothe the middle parts of
these rocks. Here they were burning some to make pitch and rosin,
piling the knotty branches as we do to make charcoale, reserving what

222 [sion. 1645-
mealts from them, which hardens into pitch. We pass'd severall cas
cades of dissolv'd snow, that had made channels of formidable depth in
y= crevices of yc mountaines, and with such a fearfull roaring as we
could heare it for 7 long miles. It is from these sources that the Rhone
and the Rhyne which passe thro' all France and Germanie, derive their
originals. Late at night we got to a towne called Brigs, at the foote
of y* Alpes, in the Valtoline. Almost every doore had nail'd on the
outsjde and "next ye streete a beare's, wolfe's, or foxe's head, and
divers of them, all three; a savage kind of sight, but as the Alps are
full of these beasts the people often kill them. The next morning we
return'd our guide, and tooke fresh mules and another to c6nduct us
to the Lake of Geneva, passing thro' as pleasant a country as that we
had just travel'd was melancholy and troublesome. A strange and
suddaine change it seem'd, for the reverberation of the.- sun -beames from
the mountaines and rocks that like walls range it on both sides, not
above two flight shots in bredth for a very great number of miles, ren
ders ye passage excessively hot. Thro' such extreames we continu'd
our journey, that goodly river the Rhone gliding by us in a narrow and
quiet channell almost in ye middle of this Canton, fertilising the coun
try for grasse and corne, which grow here in aboundance. (J f
We ariv'd this night at Sion, a pretty towne and citty, a bishop's
seate, and the head of Valesia. There is a Castle, and the Bishop who
resides in it has both civill and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. Our host,
as the costome of these Cantons is, was one of the chiefest of the
towne, and had ben a Colonell in France ; he us'd us with extreame
civility, and was so displeas'd at the usage we receiv'd at Mount
Sampion, that he would heedes give us a letter to the Governor of the
Country who resided* at St. Maurice, which was in our way to Ge
neva, to revenge the affront. This was a true old blade, and had ben
a very curious virtuoso^ as we found by an handsome collection of
books, medails, pictures, shells, and other antiquities. He shew'd two
heads and homes of the true capricome, which animal he told us was
frequently kill'd among ye mountaines ; one branch of them was as
much as I could well lift and neere as high as my bead, not much un
like the greater sort of goates, save that they bent forwards, by help

martigni. 1645.] 223
whereof they climb up and hang on inaccessible roeks, from whence the
inhabitants now and then shoote them y they speak prodigious things of
their leaping from crag to crag, and of their sure footing notwithstand
ing their being cloven footed, unapt One would think to take hold and
walke so steadily on those horrible ridges as they do.' The Colpnell
would have given me one of these beames, but the want of a convenience
to carry it along with me caus'd me to refuse his courtesie. He told
me that in the Castle there were some Roman and Christian antiquities,
and he had some inscriptions in his owne garden. He invited us to
his country-house, where he said he had better pictures and other
rarities ; but our time being short, I could not persuade my companions
to stay and visite the places he would have had us seene, nor the offer
he made to shew us the hunting of the beare, wolfe, and other wild
beasts. The next morning, having presented his daughter, a pretty
well-fashioned young woman, with a small rubie ring, we parted some
what late from our generous host. Passing thro' the same pleasant
vally betweene the horrid mountaines on either hand, like a gallery
many miles in length, we got to Martigni, where also we were well
entertain'd.- The houses in this country are all built of firr boards
planed within, low, and seldom above one story. The people very
clownish and rustickly clad after a very odd fashion, for ye most part
in blew cloth, very whole and warme, with little variety Or distinction
?twixt the gentlemen and common sort, by a law of their country being
exceedingly frugal. Add to this their greate honestie- and fidelity,
tho' exacting enough for what they part with. I saw not one beggar.
We paied the value of 20 shill. English for a day's hire of one horse.
Every man gos with a sword by his side^ the whole country well dis-
cipKn'd, and indeed impregnable, which made the Romans have such
ill successe against them ; one lusty Swisse at their narrow passages is
sufficient to repell a legion. 'Tis a frequent thing here for a young
tradesman or fermor to leave his wife and children for 12 or 15 yeares,.
and seeke his fortune in the warrs in Spaine, France, Italy, or Germanie,
and then returne againe to work. I look upon this country to be the
safest spot of all Europ, neither envyed nor envying; nor are any of
them rich, nor poore ; they live in greate simplicity and tranquillitie ;

224 [ST. MAURICE. 1645.
and tho' of the 14 Cantons halfe be Roman Catholics, the rest Re
formed, yet they mutualy agree, and are confederate with Geneva, and
are its onely security against its potent neighbours, as they themselves
are from being attack'd by the greater Potentates, by the mutual jea-
lousie of their neighbours, as either of them would be overbalanc'd
should the Swisse, who are wholy mercenarie and auxiliaries, be sub
jected to France or Spaine.
We were now ariv'd at St. Maurice, a large handsome towne and
residence of the President, where justice is don ; to him we presented
our letter from Sion, and made known the ill usage we had receiv'd for
killing a wretched goate, which so incens'd him as he sware if we would
stay he would not onely help us to our mony againe, but most severely
punish the whole rabble ; but our desire of revenge had by this time
subsided, and glad we were to be gotten so neere France, which we
reckon'd as good as home. He courteously invited us to dine with him,
but we excus'd ourselves, and returning to our inn, whilst we were
eating something before we tooke horse, the Governor had caus'd two
pages to bring us a present of two great vessells of cover'd plate full of
excellent wine, in which we drank his health, and rewarded ye youthes ;
they were two vast bowles supported by two Swisses, handsomely
wrought after the German manner. This civilitie and that of our host
at Sion perfectly reconcil'd us to the highlanders ; and so proceeding on
our journy we pass'd this afternoone thro' the gate which divides the
Valois from the Dutchy of Savoy, into which we were now entering,
and so thro' Montei we ariv'd that evening at Beveretta. Being ex-
treamly weary and complaining of my head, and finding little accom
modation in the house, I caus'd one of our hostesses daughters to be
removed out of her bed and went immediately into it whilst it was yet
warme, being so heavy with pain and drowsinesse that I would not stay
to have the sheetes chang'd; but I shortly after payd dearly for my
impatience, falling sick of the small pox so soon as I came to Geneva,
for by the smell of frankincense and ye tale ye good woman told me of
her daughter having had an ague, I afterwards concluded she had ben
newly recover'd of the small pox. Notwithstanding this I went with
my company the next day, hiring a bark to carry us over the Lake ;

GENEVA. 1646.] 225
and indeede sick as I was, the Weather was so serene and bright, the
water so calrrie, and aire so temperate, that never had travellers a sweeter
passage. Thus We sail'd the whole length of the Lake, about -30
miles, the countries bordering on it (Savoy and Berne) affording one
of the most delightful! prospects in the world, the Alps cover'd with
snow; tho' at a greate distance yet shewing their aspiring tops. Throf
this Lake the river Rhodanus passes with that velocity as not to mingle
with its exceeding deep waters, which are very cleare, and breed the
most celebrated troute for largenesse and goodness of any in Europe.
I have ordinarily seene one of three foote in length sold in the market
for a small price, and such we had in ye lodging where we abode, which
was at the White Crosse. All this while I held up tolerably, and the
next morning having a letter for Signr John Diodati, the famous Italian
Minister and translator of the Holy Bible into that language, I went
to his house, and had a greate deal of discourse wtb that learned person.
He told me he had been in England, driven by tempest into Deale,
whilst sailing for Holland, that he had seene London, and was ex
ceedingly taken with the civilities he receiv'd. He so much approv'd of
our Church Government by Bishops, that he told me the French Pro
testants would make no scruple to submitt to it and all its pomp, had
they a King of the Reform'd Religion as 'we had. He exceedingly
deplor'd the difference now betweene his Ma** and the Parliament.
After dinner came one Monsr Saladine with his little pupil the Earle of
Carnarvon, to visit us, offering to carry us to the principal places of
the towne, but being now no more able to hold up my head, I was
constrain'd to keepe my chamber, imagining that my very eyes would
have dropp'd out ; and this night I felt such a stinging all about me
that I could not sleepe. In the morning I was very ill, but sending for
a doctor he persuaded me to be let bloud. He was a very learned old
man, and as he said had ben physician to Gustavus the greate King of
Sweden, when he pass'd this way into Italy under yK name of Monsr.
Garse, the initial letters of Gustavus Adolphus Rex Sueciae, and of
our famous Duke of Buckingham on his returning out of Italy. He
afterwards acknowledg'd that he should not have bled me had he sus
pected ye small pox, which brake out a day after. He afterwards
vol. 1, 2 G

226 [geneva. 1646.
purg'd me and applied leaches, and God knows what this would have
produc'd if the spots had not appear'd, for he was thinking of blooding
me againe. They now kept me warme in bed for 16 daies, tended by
a vigilant Swisse matron, whose monstrous throat, when I sometimes
aWak'd out of unquiet slumbers, would affright me. After the pimples
were come forth, which were not many, I had much ease as to paine,
but infinitely afflicted with the heat and noysomenesse. By God's mercy
after five weeks keeping my chamber I went abroad. Mons. Saladine
and his lady sent me many refreshments. Mons. Le Chat, my physi
cian, to excuse his letting me bloud told me it was so burnt and vicious
as it would have prov'd the plague or spotted feaver bad he proceeded by
any other method. On my recovering sufficiently to go abroad, I dined
at Mons1. Saladine's, and in the afternoone went crosse the water on
the side of the Lake, and tooke a lodging that stood exceeding pleasant
about halfe a mile from the Citty for the better ayring ; but I stay'd
onely one night, having no company there save my pipe ; so the next
day I caus'd them to row me about the Lake as far as the greate stone
which they call Neptune's Rock, and on which they say sacrifice was
anciently offer'd to him. Thence I landed at certaine cherry-gardens
and pretty villas by the side of the Lake and exceedingly pleasant.
Returning I visited their conservatories of fish ; in which were trouts of
6 and 7 foote long as they affirm d.
The Rhone, which parts -ye Citty in ye middst, dips into a cavern
underground about 6 miles from it, and afterwards rises againe and runns
its open course like our Mole or Swallow by Dorking in Surrey. The
next morning (being Thursday) I heard Dr. Diodati preach in Italian,
many of that Country, especialy of Lucca his native place, being in
habitants of Geneva and of the Reform'd Religion.
The towne lying between Germanie, France, and Italy, those three
tongues are familiarly spoken by the inhabitants. 'Tis a strong well
fortifi'd Citty, part of it built on a rising ground. The houses are not
despicable, but the high pent-houses (for I can hardly call them
cloysters, being all of wood) thro' which the people passe drie and in
the shade winter and summer, exceedingly deforme the fronts of the
buildings. Here are aboundance of bookesellers, but their bookes are

GENEVA. 1646.] 227
of ill impressions ; these, with watches (of which store are made here),
chrystal, and excellent screw'd guns, are the staple commodities. All
provisions are good and cheape.
The Townehouse is fairely built of stone ; the portico has foure black
marble columns, and on a table of the same under the Citty arms, a
demie eagle and a crosse between crosse-keys, is a motto, " Post Tene-
bras Lux," and this inscription :
Quum anno 1535 profligata. Romana Anti-Christi Tyrannide, abrogatisq;
ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hie in suam puritatem,
Ecclesia in rneliorem ordinem singulari Dei beneficio reposita, et simul pulsis
fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa in suam Libertatem, non sine insigni miraculo,
restituta fuerit; Senatus Populusq; Genevensis Monumentum hoc, perpetuae
memoriae causa, fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quo suam erga Deum gra-
titudinem ad posteros testatum fuerit.
The territories about the towne are not so large as many ordinary
gentlemen have about their country farmes, for which cause they are
in continual watch, especialy on the Savoy side ; but in case of any
siege the Swisse are at hand, as this inscription in the same place
shews, towards the streete : D. O. M. S.
.Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum veteri Libertate Genevae restituta, et
quasi novo Jubileo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et foris insidiis et superatis
tempestatibus, et Helvetiorum Primari Tigurini aequo jure in societatem per-
petuam nobiscum venerint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum
novo adstrinxerint, S. P. Q. G. quod felix se velit D. O. M. tantj beneficii mo
numentum consecrarunt, anno temporis ultimi cio.id.xxxiv.
In the Senat house were 14 antient urnes, dug up as they were
removing earth in the fortifications.
A little out of the towne is a spacious field which they call Campus
Martius ; and well it may be so tearm'd with better reason than that
of Rome at present (which is no more a field but all built into streetes),
for here on every Sonday after the evening devotions this precise people
permitt their youths to exercise armes, and shoote in gunns and in the
long and crosse bowes, in which they are exceedingly expert, reputed
to be as dexterous as any people in the world. To encourage this, they
yearely elect* him who has won most prizes at the mark to be their

228 [geneva. 1646.
king, as the king of the long-bow, gun, or crosse-bow. He then
weares that weapon in his hat in gold wth a crowne over it, made fast
to the hat like a broach. In this field is a long house wherein their
armes and furniture are kept in severall places very neately. To this
joynes a hall where at certain times they meete and feast ; in the glass
windows are the armes and names of their kings [of armes]. At y*
side -of the field is a very noble Pall-Mall, but it turns with an elbow.
There is also a bowling- place, a tavern, and a true-table, and here
they ride their menaged horses. It is also the usual place of publiq
execution of those who suffer for any capital crime tho' committed in
another country, by which law divers fugitives have been put to death
who have fled hither to escape punishment in their own country.
Amongst other severe punishments here, adultery is death. Having
seene this field and play'd a game at Mall, I supped with Mr. Saladine.
On Sonday I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and after the
French mode, in a gowne with a cape and his hat on. The Church
Government is severely Presbyterian, after the discipline of Calvin and
Beza who set it up, but nothing so rigid as either our Scots or Eng
lish Sectaries of that denomination. In yc afternoone Monsr. Morice
a most learned young person and excellent poet, cheif Professor of
the University, preach'd at St. Peter's, a spacious Gotick fabrifik.
This was heretofore a Cathedral and a reverend pile. It has 4 turrets
on one of which stands a continual sentinel ; on another cannons are
mounted. The Church is very decent within ; nor have they at all
defaced ye painted windows, which are full of pictures of Saints ; nor
the stalls, which are all carv'd with ye history of our B. Saviour.
In the afternoone I went to see the young towne's-men exercise in
Mars Field, where prizes were pewter plates and dishes ; 'tis said
that some have gain'd competent estates by what they have thus won.
Here I first saw huge ballstae or crosse-bows shot in, being such as they
formerly us'd in wars before greate guns were known ; they were plac'd
in frames, and had greate screws to bend them, doing execution at an
incredible distance. They were most accurate at the long-bow and
musket, rarely missing the smallest mark. I was as buisy with the
carbine I brought from Brescia as any of them. After every shot I

GENEVA. 1646.] 229
found them go into the long house and cleanse their guns before they
charg'd againe.
On Monday I was invited to a little garden without yc workes
where were many rare tulips, anemonies, and other choice flowers.
The Rhone, running athwart ye towne out of ye Lake, makes halfe ye
Citty a suburb, which in imitation of Paris they call St. German's
Fauxbourg, and it has a church of the same name. On two wooden
bridges that crosse the river are several water-mills, and shops of trades
especialy smiths and cuttlers ; between the bridges is an island in the
midst of which is a very ancient Tower said to have been built by Julius
Caesar. At the end of the other bridge is yfc Mint, and a faire Sun-dial.
Passing againe by ye Towne-house I saw a large crocodile hanging
in chaines ; and against the wall of one of the chambers seaven judges
were painted without hands, except one in the middle, who has but
one hand ; I know not ye storie. The Arsenal is at the end of this
building, well furnish'd and kept.
After dinner Mr. Morice led us to the CoUedge, a faire structure ;
in the lower part are the scholes, which consist of 9 classes ; and an
hall above, where the students assemble; also a good library. They
show'd us a very antient Bible of about 300 yeares old in the vulgar
French, and a MS. in ye old Monkish character : here have the Pro
fessors their lodgings. I also went to see the Hospital, which is very
commodious ; but the Bishop's Palace is now a prison. .
This towne is not much celebrated for beautifull women, for even at
this distance from the Alps the gentlewomen have something full
throates, but our Captain Wray (afterwards Sir Wm. eldest son of that
Sir Christopher, who had both ben in armes agains this Majesty for
ye Parliament) fell so mightily in love with one of Mons1. Saladine's
daughters that with much persuasion he could not be prevail'd on
to think on his journey into France, ye season now coming on ex
tremely hot.
My sicknesse and abode here cost me 45 pistoles of gold to my host,
and five to my honest doctor, who for six weekes attendance and the
apothecarie thought it so generous a reward, that at my taking leave
he presented me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written

230 [FRANCE. 1646.
with his own hand in Latine. This regimen I much observ'd, and I
bless God pass'd the journey without inconvenience from sicknesse, but
it was an extraordinarily hot unpleasant season and journey by reason of
ye craggie waies.
5 July, 1646, we tooke or rather purchas'd a boat, for it could not
be brought back against the streame of the Rhone. We were two days
going to Lions, passing many admirable prospects of rocks and cliffs,
and neere the towne down a very steepe declivitie of water for a full
mile. From Lions we proceeded the next morning, taking horse to
Rohan, and lay that night at Farrara. At Rohan we indulged our
selves with ye best y4 all France affords, for here ye provisions are
choice and plentifull, so as the supper we had might have satisfied a
prince. We lay that night in damask beds, and were treated like em-
perours. The towne is one of the neatest built in all France, on ye
brink of the Loire; and here we agreed with an old fisher to row us
as farr as Orleans. The first night we came as far as Nevers, early
enough to see the towne, the Cathedral (St. Cyre), the Jesuits Col-
ledge, and tbe Castle, a Palace of the Duke's, with the bridge to it
nobly built.
The next day we pass'd by La Charite, a pretty towne somewhat
distant from the river. Here I lost my faith full spaniel (Piccioli) who
had follow'd me from Rome ; it seemes he had ben taken up by some
of the Governor's pages or footemen, without recovery, which was a
greate displeasure to me because the curr had many useful qualities. "
The next day we ariv'd at Orleans, taking our turns to row, of
which I reckon my share came to little less than 20 leagues. Some
times we footed it thro' pleasant fields and medows; sometimes we shot
at fowls and other birds, nothing came amiss ; sometimes we play'd at
cards, whilst others sung or were composing verses, for we had yc
greate Poet Mr. Waller in our companie, and some other ingenious
persons. At Orleans we abode but one day ; the next, leaving our mad Cap
taine behind us, I ariv'd at Paris, rejoic'd that after so many dissasters
and accidents in a tedious peregrination I was gotten so neere home,
and here I resolv'd to rest myselfe before I went further.

PARIS. 1647.] 231
It was now October, and the onely time that in my whole life I spent
most idly, tempted from my more profitable recesses ; but I soone reco
ver'd my better resolutions and fell to my study, learning the High
Dutch and. Spanish tongues, and now and then refreshing my daunce-
ing and such exercises as I had long omitted and woh are not in mueh
reputation amongst the sober Italians.
1647, January 28, I chang'd my lodging in the Place de Mons1. de
Metz neere the Abby of S' Germains; and thence on the 12th Feby to
another in Rue Columbier, where I had a very faire appartement which
cost me 4 pistoles per moneth. The 18th I frequented a course of Che-
mistrie, the famous Mr. Le Febure operating upon most of the nobler
processes. March 3, Mons1 Mercure began to teach me on y" lute, tho'
to small perfection.
In May I fell sick and had very weak eyes, for which I was foure
times let blood.
22 May. My valet (Hebert) robb'd me of cloths and plate to the
value of threescore pounds, but thro' the diligence of Sir Richard
Browne, his Majesty's Resident at the Court of France, and with whose
lady and family I had contracted a greate friendship (and particularly
set my affections on a daughter) I recover'd most of them, obtaining of
the Judge with no small difficulty that the processe against the thiefe
should not conceme his life, being his first offence.
10 June. We concluded about my marriage, in order to which I
went to St. Germans, where his Majesty, then Prince of Wales, had
his court, to desire of Dr. Earle, then one of his Chaplains (since
Dean of Westminster, Gierke of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisburie)
that he would accompany me to Paris, which he did, and on Thursday 27
June, 1647, he married us in Sir Richard Browne's Chapell betwixte the
houres of 11 and 12, some few select freinds being present: and this
being Corpus Christi feast was solemnly observ'd in this country ; the
streetes were sumptuously hung with tapissry, and strew'd with flowers.
10 Sept. Being call'd into England to settle my affaires after an
absence of about 4 yeares, I tooke leave of the Prince and Queene,
leaving my wife, yet very young, under the care of an excellent lady
and prudent mother.

232 [ENGLAND, l647-
4 Oct, I seal'd and declared my Will, and that morning went from
Paris, taking my journey thro' Rouen, Dieppe, Ville-dieu, and St.
Vallerie where I staied one day with Mr. Waller with whom I had
some affaires, and for which cause I tooke this circle to Cajais, where
I ariv'd on the 11 th, and that night imbarking in the paquet-boate,
was by one o'clock got safe to Dover, for which I heartily put up my
thanks to God who had conducted me safe to my owne country, and
ben mercifull to me thro' so many aberrations. Hence taking post I
ariv'd at London the next day at evening, being the second of October
new style.
5 Oct. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to my brother, and
on the 10th to Hampton Court, where I had the honour to kisse his
Majesty's hand, and give him an account of severall things I had in
eharge, he being now in the power of those execrable villains who not
long after murder'd him. I lay at my cousin Serjeant Hatton 's at
Thames Ditton, whence on the 13th I went to London.
14th. To Sayes Court at Deptford in Kent, (since my house), where
I found Mr. Pretyman my wife's uncle, who had charge of it and the
estate about it during my father-in-law's residence in France. On the
15th I again occupied my owne Chambers at the Middle Temple.
9 Nov. My sister open'd to me her marriage with Mr. Glanvill.
1648. 14 Jan. From London I went to Wotton to see my young ne
phew; and thence to Baynards [in Ewhurst] to visite my brother Richard.
5 Feb. Saw a Tragie-comedy acted in the Cockpit, after there had
ben none of these diversions for many years during the warr.
28. I went with my.noble friend Sir Wm Ducy (afterwards Lord
Downe) to Thistleworth, where we din'd with Sir Clepesby Crew,
and afterwards to see the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver and rounds of
plaster, and then the curious flowers of Mr. Barill's garden, who has
some good medails and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine Indian hang
ings and a very good chimney-piece of water colours by Breugel, which
I bought for him.
26 April. There was a greate uprore in London that the Rebell
Armie quartering at Whitehall would plunder the Citty, on which
there was publish'd a Proclamation for all to stand on their guard.

1648.] 233
4. May. Came up the Essex Petitioners for an agreement 'twixt his
Majesty and the Rebells. The 16th the Surrey men address'd the Par
liament for the same ; of which some of them were slayne and murder'd
by Cromwell's guards in the New Palace Yard. I now sold the Impro
priation of South Mailing neere Lewes in Sussex to Mr. Kemp and
Alcock for .=£.3000.
30 May. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of Norwich
being at the head of them. Their first rendevous was in Broome field
next my house at Says-Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so
to Colchester, where was that memorable siege.
27 June. I purchas'd the Manor of Hurcott in Worcestershire of
my brother George for ^.3300.
1 July. I sate for my picture, in which there is a Death's head, to
Mr. Walker, that excellent painter.
10. Newes was brought me of my Lord Francis Villers being slaine
by ye Rebells neere Kingston.
16. Aug. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the wedding of my
brother Richard, who married the daughter and coheire of Esq1- Minn
lately deceas'd, by which he had a greate estate both in land and monie
ou the death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and bride-
groome were, was overturn'd in coming home, but no harm was done.
28. To London from Says Court, and saw ye celebrated follies of
Bartholomew Fair.
Sept. 16. Came my lately married brother Richard and his wife to
visite me, when I shewed them Greenewich and her Majesties Palace,
now possessed by the Rebells.
28. I went to Albury to visite the Countess of Arundel, and return'd
to Wotton.
31 Oct. I went to see my Manor of Preston Beckhelvyn and the
Cliffhouse. 29th Nov. My selfe with Mr. Tho: Offley and Lady Gerrard,
christned my niece Mary, eldest daughter of my brother George Eve
lyn by my Lady Cotton his second wife. I presented my niece a piece
of plate which cost me ^.18, and caused this inscription to be set on it:
vol. 1. 2 H

234 [1649.
" In memoriam facti
Anno clo.lx.xlnx. Cal. Decemb. vm. Virginum castiss: Xtianorum inno-
centiss: Nept: suaviss: Mariae, Johan: Evelynus Avunculus et Susceptor
Vasculum hoc cum Epigraphe L. M. Cj. D.
Ave Maria, Gratia sis plena; Dominus tecum."
2 Dec. This day I sold my Manor of Hurcott for ,£.3400 to one
Mr. Bridges.
13. The Parliament now sat up the whole night and endeavour'd
to haye concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty, but were surpriz'd by the
Rebell Army, yte Members dispers'd, and greate confusion every where
in expectation of what would be next.
17. I heard an Italian sermon in Mercers Chapel, one Dr. Mid
dleton, an acquaintance of mine, preaching.
18. I got privately into the Council of ye Rebell Army at White
hall, where I heard horrid villanies.
This was a most exceeding wet yeare, neither frost nor snow all the
Winter for more than 6 days in all. Cattle died every where of a
murrain. 1649, 1 Jan. I had a lodging and some bookes at my father in law's
house, Sayes Court.
2 Jan. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveller Mr. Hen
shaw, who had 2 rare pieces of Stenwyck's perspective.
17- To London. I heard the Rebell Peters incite the Rebell Powers
met in the Painted Chamber to destroy his Ma1*, and saw that arch-
tray tor Bradshaw, who not long after copdemn'd him.
19. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger of being
drowned by our wherries falling foule in the night on another vessell
then at anker, shooting the bridge at 3 quarters ebb, for which His
mercy God Almighty be prais'd.
21. Was publish'd my Translation of Liberty and Servitude, for
ye Preface of which I was severely threatend.
22. I went thro' a course of Chymistrie at Sayes Court. Now was
the Thames frozen over, and horrid tempests of wind.
The villanie of the Rebells proceeding now so far as to trie, condemne
and murder our excellent King on ye 30th of this month, struck me

1649-] 235
with such horror that I kept the day of his martyrdom a fast, and
would not be present at that execrable wickednesse; receiving the sad
account of it from my brother George and Mr. Owen, who came to
visite me this afternoone, and recounted all the circumstances.
1 Feb. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Norwich, Lord
Capell, &c. at their tryal before the Rebells Neiv Court of Injustice.
15. I went, to see ye collection of one Trean, a rich merchant, who
had some good pictures, especialy a rare perspective of Stenwyck ; from
thence to other Virtuoso's. The paynter La Neve has an Andromeda,
but I think it a copy after Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in
France. Webb at the Exchange has some rare things in miniature
of Breugel's, also Putti * in 12 squares, that were plunder'd from Sir
James Palmer. At Du Bois we saw 2 tables of Putti, that were
gotten, I know not how, out of the Castle of St. Angelo by old Petit,
thought to be Titian's; he had some good heads of Palma, and one of
Stenwyck. Bellcar shew'd us an excellent copy of his Majesty's
Sleeping Venus and the Satyr e with other figures, for now they had
plunder'd, sold, and dispers'd a world of rare paintings of ye King's
and his loyall subjects. After all, Sr Wm Ducy shew'd me some ex
cellent things in miniature, and in oyle of Holbein's, S* Tho. More's
head, and an whole figure of Edward 6th, which were certainly his
Majesty's, also a picture of Queene Elizabeth, the Lady Isabella
Thynn; a rare painting of Rothenhamer, being a Susanna; and a
Magdalen of Quintin the Blacksmith ; also an Hen. 8. of Holbein ;
and Francis ye first, rare indeede, but of whose hand I know not.
16. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de Conde, my
wife being shut up with her father and mother, I wrote a letter of con
solation to her ; and on the 22d having recommended Obadiah Walker f,
a learned and most ingenious person, to be tutor to and to travell with
Mr. Hillyard's two sonns, returned to Says Court.
25. Came to visite me Dr. Joyliffe, discoverer of the lymphatic ves
sells, and an excellent anatomist.
* Putti— Boys' Heads.
t Mr. Evelyn has added in the margin against Walker's name, " Since an apostate." He was
master of University College, Oxford.

236 [1649-
26. Came to see me Capt. Geo. Evelyn* my kinsman ye greate
traveller, and one who belie v'd himself a better architect than really he
was, witness the Portico in the garden at Wotton ; yet the greate roome
at Albury is somewhat better understood. He had a large mind, but
overbuilt every thing.
27- Came out of France my wife's unkle (Paris still besieged) being
rob'd at sea by the Dunkyrk pirates : I lost among other goods my
Wife's picture painted by Monsr Bourdon.
5 March. Now were the Lords murder'd in the Palace Yard f.
18. Mr. Owen, a sequester'd and learned minister, preach'd in my
parlour, and gave us the blessed Sacrament, now wholly out of use in the
Parish Churches, on which the Presbyterians and Fanatics had usurp'd.
21 Mar. I receiv'd letters from Paris from my wife, and from Sir
Richard [Browne] with whom I kept a political correspondence, with
no small danger of being discover'd.
25. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in these days) in St.
Peter's at Paul's Wharf, London ; and in ye morning the Archbishop
of Armagh, that pious person and learned man, Usher, in Lincoln's
Inn Chapell.
April 2. To London, and inventoried my moveables that had hitherto-
ben dispersed for feare of plundering : wrote into France touching my
suddaine resolutions of coming over to them. On the 8th againe heard
an excellent discourse from Archbp. Usher on Ephes: 4. v. 26-27-
My Italian collection being now ariv'd, came Moulins ye greate
Chirurgeon, to see and admire the Tables of Veins and Arteries which
I purchas'd and caus'd to be drawne out of several humane bodies at
Padua. 11. Received newes out of France that peace was concluded : dined
with Sir Jo. Evelyn at Westminster ; and on the 13th I saw a private
dissection at' Moulins' house.
17- I fell dangerously ill of my head ; was blistered and let blood
behind ye eares and forehead : on the 23rd began to have ease by using
* Son; of .Sir John Evelyn of Godstone; see Pedigree in the History of Surrey, vol. II. p. 150,
but where he is by mistake stated to be brother of Sir John.
t Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Holland, and Lord Capel.

1649-] 237
the fumes of cammomile on embers applied to my eares after all the
physitians had don their best.
29. I saw in London an huge ox bred in Kent, 17 foote in length,
and much higher than I could reach.
12 May. I purchased the Manor of Warley Magna in Essex : in
the afternoone went to see Gildron's collections of payntings, where I
found Mr. Endymion Porter of his late Maties Bedchamber.
17- Went to Putney by water in barge with divers ladies, to see the
Schooles or Colledges of the young gentlewomen *.
19. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, who had some good
paintings, especialy a Monk at his beades.
30 May. Un-kingship was proclaim'd, and his Majesty's statues
thrown down at St. Paul's Portico and the Exchange.
7 June. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton (brother to Sir Ralph, Lord
Hopton, that noble hero), who having ben Ambass1 Extraordinary in
Spaine, sojourn'd some time with my Father-in-law at Paris ; a most
excellent person. Also Signora Lucretia, a Greeke Lady whom I
knew in Italy, now come over with her husband, an English gentleman.
Also the Earle and Countesse of Arundel, taking leave of them and
other friends now ready to depart for France. This night was a scuffle
betweene some rebell souldiers and gentlemen about the Temple.
10. Preach'd the Abp. of Armagh in Lincoln's Inn from Ro
mans 5. verse 13. I received the Blessed Sacrament preparatory to
my journey.
13. I din'd with my worthy friend Sir John Owen, newly freed
from sentence of death among the Lords that suffer'd. With him was
one Carew, who play'd incomparably on the Welsh harp : afterwards I
treated divers Ladies of my relations, in Spring Garden.
This night was buried with great pomp Dorislaus, slaine at the
Hague, the villain who manag'd the trial against his sacred Majesty.
17- I got a passe from the rebell Bradshaw, then in greate power.
20. I went to Putney and other places on ye Thames to take
* Kept probably by Mrs. Bathsua Makins, the most learned woman of her time : she had been
tutor to the Princess Elizabeth, King Charles's daughter. There is a very rare portrait of her
by Marshall.

238 [1649-
prospects in crayon to carry into France, where I thought to have them

engrav'd *

2 July. I went from Wotton to Godstone (the residence of Sir John
Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn of Wilts, when I took leave
of both Sir Johns and their ladys. Mem. the prodigious memory of
Sir John of Wilts daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepoint, and
mother of ye present Earle of Kingston. I returned to Says Court
this night.
4. Visited Lady Hatton, her Lord sojourning at Paris with my
father-in-law. 9. Dined with Sir Walter Pye and my good friend Mr. Eaton,
afterwards a Judge, who corresponded with me in France.
11. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse, the Divine, Historian
and Poet; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and other friends, to take
leave of me.
12. It was about 3 in ye afternoon I tooke oares for Gravesend, ac
companied by my cousin Stephens and sister Glanvill, who there supp'd
with me and return'd ; whence I tooke post immediately to Dover,
where I ariv'd by 9 in the morning, and about 1 1 that night went
on board a bark guarded by a pinnace of 8 guns ; this being the first
time the pacquett-boate had obtain'd a convoy, having severall times
before ben pillag'd. We had a good passage, tho' chas'd for some
houres by a pyrate, but he durst not attaq our fregat, and we then
chas'd him till he got under the protection of the Castle at Calais. It
was a small privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. I carried over
with me my servant Ri. Hoare, an incomparable writer of several
hands, whom I afterwards preferr'd in the Prerogative Office f at yfc
return of his Majesty. Lady Catharine Scot, daughter of ye Earle of
Norwich, follow'd us in a shallop with Mr. Arthur Slingsby, who left
England incognito. At the entrance of the towne the Lieut. Governor
being on his horse with yb Guards let us passe courteously. I visited
Sir Richard Lloyd, an English Gent, in the towne, and walked in the

* One of these he etched himself. The plate is nov/ at Wotton.
t Where specimens of his writing in the entry of Wills about this date may now be seen.

paris. 1649.] 239
Church, where the ornament about the high altar of black marble is
very fine, and there is a good picture of the Assumption. The Citadell
seemes to be impregnable, and the whole country about it to be laied
under water by sluices for many miles.
16. We departed for Paris in company with that very pleasant lady,
and others. In all this journey we were greatly apprehensive of parties,
which caus'd us to alight often out of our coach and walke separately
on foot with our guns ready in all suspected places.
1 Aug. At 3 in the afternoone we came to St. Denis, saw yK rarities
of ye Church and Treasury, and so to Paris that evening.
The next day came to wellcome me at dinner the Lord High Trea
surer Cottington, Sr Edward Hide Chancellor, Sr Edwd Nicholas Secre
tary of State, Sr George Cartret Governor of Jersey, and Dr. Earle,
having now ben absent from my Wife above a yeare and halfe.
18. I went to St. Germain's to kisse his Majesty's hand; in ye
coach, which was my Lord Wilmot's, went Mrs. Barlow the King's
mistresse and mother to ye Duke of Monmouth, a browne, beautifull,
bold, but insipid creature.
19. I went to salute the French King and the Queene Dowager;
and on the 21st returned in one of the Queenes coaches with my Lord
Germain, Duke of Buckingham, Ld. Wentworth, & Mr. Croftes, since
Lord Croftes.
7 Sept. Went with my Wife and deare Cosin to St. Germains, and
kissed the Queene-mother's hand ; din'd with my L. Keeper and Lord
Hatton. Divers of the greate men of France came to see the King;
the next day came the Prince of Conde. Returning to Paris we went
to see the President Maison's Palace, built castlewise of a milk-white
fine freestone; the house not vast, but well contriv'd, especialy the
staire-case and the ornaments of Putti about it. 'Tis inviron'd in a. dry
moate, the offices under-ground, the gardens very excellent with extra
ordinary long walkes set with elmes, and a noble prospect towards the
forest and on the Seine towards Paris. Take it altogether, the meadows,
walkes, river, forest, corne-ground, and vineyards, I hardly saw any
thing in Italy exceede it. The yron gates are very magnificent. He has
pulled downe a whole village to make roome for his pleasure about it.

240 [paris. 1649.
12. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman and one of his Maties Chaplaines, a
learned Grecian who set out yc Council of Florence, preached.
13. The King invited ye Prince of Conde' to supper at St. Cloud ;
there I kiss'd the Duke of York's hand in ye Tennis Court, where I
saw a famous match 'twixt Monsr. Saumeurs and Col. Cooke, and so
returned to Paris. 'Twas noised about that I was knighted, a dignity
I often declin'd.
1 Oct. Went with my cousin Tuke (afterwards Sir Samuel) to see ye
fountaines of St. Cloud and Ruel, and after dinner to talke with yc poore
ignorant and superstitious Anchorite at Mount Calvary, and so to Paris.
2. Came Mr. William Coventrie (afterward Sr Willm) & the Duke's
Secretary, &c. to visite me.
5. Dined with Sir George Radcliffe ye greate favourite of the late
Earle of Strafford, formerly Lord Deputy of Ireland, decapitated.
7- To the Louvre to visite the Countesse of Morton, Governesse to
Madame. 15. Came news of Drogheda being taken by ye Rebells and all put to
yL' sword, wch made us very sad, fore-running the losse of all Ireland.
21. I went to heare Dr. D'Avinson's lecture in ye physical garden,
and see his laboratorie, he being Prefect of yt excellent Garden and
Professor Botanicus.
30. I was at ye funerall of one Mr. Downes, a sober English
gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to Charenton, where he was
interr'd in a cabbage-garden, yet with the office of our Church, wch was
said before in our Chapell at Paris. Here I saw also where they buried
ye greate Souldier Gassion, who had a tombe built over him like a foun
taine, the designe and materials meane enough. I returned to Paris
with Sir Phil: Musgrave, & Sir Marmaduk Langdale, since Lord Lang
dale. — Memorandum. This was a very sickly and mortal Autumne.
5 Nov. I receiv'd divers letters out of England, requiring me to
come over about settling some of my concerns.
7- Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester) preach'd in
our Chapell on Matt: 4. verse 3.
18. I went with my Father-in-law to his audience at the French
Court, where next the Pope's Nuncio he was introduced by ye Master

PARIS. 1649-] 241
of Ceremonies, and after delivery of his credentials, as from our King
since his Father's murder, he was most graciously receiv'd by the King
of France and his Mother, with whom he had a long audience. This
was in the Palais Cardinal.
After this, being presented to his Majesty and ye Queene Regent,
I went to see ye house built by ye late greate Cardinal de Richelieu,
The most observable thing is the gallerie painted wth the portraits of the
most illustrious persons and signal actions in France, with innumerable
emblemes 'twixt every table. In ye middle of ye gallery is a neate
chapell rarely paved in worke and devices of severall sorts of marble,
besides yc altar-piece and 2 statues of white marble, one of St. John,
ye other of ye Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of ye apartments
are rarely gilded and carv'd, wth some good modern paintings. In
the presence hang 3 huge branches of chrystal. In yc French King's
bed-chamber is an alcove like another chamber, set as it were in a
chamber like a moveable box, with a rich embroidred bed. The fabric
of the Palace is not magnificent, being but of 2 stories, but the garden
is so spacious as to containe a noble basin and fountaine continually
playing, and there is a Mall, with an elbow or turning to protract it.
So I left his Majesty on ye terrace, buisie in seeing a bull -baiting, and
return'd home in Prince Edward's coach with Mr. Paule, ye Prince
Elector's agent.
19. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr. Holden, an English
Sorbonne Divine, we fell into some discourse about Religion.
28 Dec. Going to waite on Mr. Waller, I view'd St. Stephen's
Church ; ye building tho' Gotic is full of carving ; within it is beautifull,
especialy the quire and winding staires. The glasse is well painted, and
the tapissry hung up this day about the quire, representing the conver
sion of Constantine, was exceeding rich.
I went to that excellent engraver Du Bosse, for his instruction about
some difficulties in perspective which were delivered in his booke.
I concluded this yeare in health, for wch I gave solemn thanks to
Almighty God *.
* This he does not fail to repeat at the end of every year, but it will not always be necessary to
insert it in this book.
VOL. I. 2 I

242 [paris. 1650.
29. I christned Sr Hugh Rilies child with Sr Geo. Radcliffe in our
Chapell, the parents being so poore that they had provided no gossips,
so as severall of us drawing lotts it fell on me, the Dearie of Peterborow
(Dr. Cosin) officiating : We named it Andrew, being on the eve of y1
Apostle's day.
1650. Jany 1. I began "this Jubilie with ye publiq office in our Cha
pell : din'd at my Lady Herbert's, wife of Sir Edw: Herbert, after
wards Lord Keeper.
18. This night was ye Prince of Conde" and his Brother carried pri
soners to ye Bois de Vincennes.
Feb. 6. In the evening came Sign1-. Allessandro, one of ye Card1.
Mazarine's musitians, and a person of greate name for his knowledge in
v1 art, to visite my wife, and sung before divers persons of quality in
my chamber.
1 March. I went to see ye masquerados wch was very fantastic,
but nothing so quiet and solemn as I found it at Venice.
13. Saw a triumph in Monsr. del Camp's Academie, where divers of
the French and English Noblesse, especialy my Lord of Ossorie, and
Richard, sonns to the Marquis of Ormond (afterwards Duke), did their
exercises on horseback in noble equipage, before a world of spectators
and greate persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation.
Aprill 25. I went out of towne to see Madrid, a palace so call'd,
• built by Francis ye First (see p. 45.) 'Tis observable onely for its open
manner of architecture, being much of tarraces and galleries one over
another to ve very roofe, and for ye materials, which are most of earth
painted like Porcelain or China-ware, whose colours appeare very fresh,
but is very fragile. There are whole statues and relievos of this pot-
terie, chimney-pieces and columns both within and without. Under
the chapell is a chimny in the midst of a roome parted from the Salle
des Gardes. The house is fortified with a deepe ditch, & has an admi
rable vista towards the Bois de Boulogne & River.
30. I went to see ye collection of ye famous sculptor Steffano de la
Bella returning now into Italy, and bought some prints : and likewise
visited Perelle ye landskip graver.

paris. 1650.] 243
3 May. At ye Hospital of La Charite I saw ye operation of cutting
for ye stone. A child of 8 or 9 yeares old underwent ye operation with
most extraordinary patience, and expressing greate joy when he saw the
stone was drawn. The use I made of it was to give Almighty God
hearty thankes that I had not ben subject to this deplorable infirmitie,
7- I went with Sr Richard Browne's lady and my wife, together with
ye Earle of Chesterfield, Lord Ossorie and his brother, to Vamber, a
place neere y" Citty famous for butter ; when coming homewards, being
on foote, a quarrel arose between Lord Ossorie and a man in a garden,
who thrust Lord Ossorie from the gate with uncivil language, on which
our young gallants struck the fellow on the pate, and bid him aske par
don, which he did with much submission, and so we parted ; but we
were not gon far before we heard a noise behind us, and saw people
coming with gunns, swords, staves, and forks, and who followed fling
ing stones ; on which we turn'd and were forc'd to engage, and wth our
swords, stones, and the help of our servants (one of whom had a pistol)
made our retreate for neere a quarter of a mile, when we took shelter in
a house, whe're we were besieg'd, and at length forc'd to submit to be
prisoners. Lord Hatton with some others were taken prisoners in the
flight, and his lordship was confin'd under 3 locks and as many doores
in this rude fellow's master's house, who pretended to be steward to
Monsr. St. Germain, one of the Presidents of the Grand Chambre du
Parliament and a Canon of Notre Dame. Severall of us were much
hurt. One of our lacquies escaping to Paris, caused ye bailiff of St.
Germain to come with his guard and rescue us. Immediately afterwards
came Monsr. St. Germain himselfe in greate wrath on hearing that his
housekeeper was assaulted ; but when he saw the King's Officers, the
Gentlemen and Noblemen, with his Majesty's Resident, and understood
the occasion, he was ashamed of the accident, requesting the fellow's
-pardon, and desiring the ladys to accept their submission and a supper
at his house. It was 10 o'clock at night ere we got to Paris, guarded
by Prince Griffith, (a Welch hero going under that name, and well
known in England for his extravagances,) together with the scholars of
two academies who came forth to assist and meete us on horseback,' and

244 [paris. 165°-
would faine have alarm'd ye towne we receiv'd ye affront from, which
with much ado We prevented.
12. Complaint being come to ye Queene and Court of France of j*
affront we had receiv'd, the President was ordered to aske pardon of Sr
R. Browne, his Majesty's Resident, and the fellow to make submission
and be dismiss'd. There came along with him President de Thou, sonn
of the greate Thuanus [the historian], and so all was compos'd. But
I have often heard that gallant gentleman my Lord Ossorie affirme so
lemnly that in all the conflicts he ever was in at sea or on land, (in the
most desperate of both which he had often ben) he believ'd he was never
in so much danger as when these people rose against us. He us'd to
call it the battaill de Vambre, and remember it with a greate deale of
mirth as an adventure en cavalier.
24. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a running at ye
Ring, where were many brave horses, gallants and ladys, my Lord
Stanhope entertaining us wth a collation.
12 June. Being Trinity Sunday the Dean of Peterborough preach'd ;
after which there was an ordination of two Divines, Durell and Brevent
(ye one was afterwards Deane of Windsor, ye other of Durham, both
very learned persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with greate
gravity, after a pious and learned exhortation declaring ye weight and
dignitie of their function, especialy now in a time of yc poore Church of
England's affliction ; he magnified ye sublimity of the calling, from the
object, viz. the salvation of men's soules, and the glory of God ; pro
ducing many humane instances of the transitorinesse and vanity of all
other dignities ; that of all the triumphs the Roman Conquerors made,
none was comparable "to y* of our Blessed Saviours when he lead Cap-
tivitie captive, and gave gifts to men, namely that of the Holy Spirit, by
which his faithfull and painefull Ministers triumphed over Satan as oft
as they reduc'd a sinner from the errour of his ways. He then pro
ceeded to ye ordination. They were presented by the Deane in their
surplices before, the altar, the Bishop sitting in a chaire at one side *
and so were made both Deacons and Priests at ye same time in re-
guard to the necessitie of the times, there being sci few Bishops left in
England, and consequently danger of a failure of both functions.

paris. 1650.] 245
Lastly they proceeded to ye Communion. This was all perform'd in
Sir Richard Browne's Chapell at Paris.
13 June. I sate to the famous sculptor Nanteuil, who was after
wards made a knight by the French King for his art. He engrav'd
my picture in copper *. At a future time he presented me with my
own picture -j*, done all with a pen ; an extraordinary curiosity.
21 June. I went to see the Samaritan or Pump at ye end of ye Pont
Neuf, which tho' to appearance promising no greate matter, is, besides
the machine, furnish'd with innumerable rarities both of art and na
ture; especialy ye costly Grotto, where are the fairest corals growing
out of yc very rock, that I have seen ; also great pieces of chrystal,
amethysts, gold in ye mine, and other mettals and marcasites, with
two greate conchas, which the owner told us cost him 200 crownes at
Amsterdam. He shew'd us many landskips and prospects very rarely
painted in miniature, some with the pen and crayon ; divers antiquities
and relievos of Rome; above all, that of the inside of the Amphitheater
of Titus incomparably drawn by Monsr. St. Clere J himselfe; two boys
and three skeletons moulded by Fiamingo; a booke of statues with the
pen made for Hen. IV. rarely executed, and by which, one may dis
cover many errors in the taille douce of Perrier, who has added divers
conceits of his owne «that are not in ye originals. He has likewise an
infinite collection of taille douces richly bound in Morocco. He led us
into a stately chamber furnish'd to have entertain'd a. prince, with pic
tures of the greatest masters, especialy a Venus of Perino del Vaga ;
y* Putti carved in the chimneyrpiece by the Fleming ; the vasas of
porcelan, and many design'd by Raphael ; some paintings of Poussin
and Fioravanti; antiques in brasse; the looking-glasse and stands
rarely carved. In a word, all was greate, choice and magnificent, and
not to be pass'd by as I had often don, without the least suspicion that
there were such rare things to be seene in that place. At a future visit
he shew'd a new grotto and bathing-place, hew'd thro' ye battlements

* Now in the Library at Wotton, an impression from which is here given.
f Also those of his Lady and Sir R. Browne, which are also at Wotton, most beautifully executed.
X This was the name of the owner.

246 [1650'.
of yfi arches of Pont Neuf, into a wide vault at ye intercolumniation, so
that ye coaches and horses thunder'd over our heads.
27 June. I made my Will, and taking leave of my wife and other
friends tooke horse for England, paying the Messager 8 pistoles for me
and my servant to Calais, setting out with 17 in company well arm'd,
some Portugezes, Swisse and French, whereof 6 were Captaines and
Officers. We came the first night to Beaumont ; next day to Beauvais,
and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reach'd Abbeville ; next
din'd at Montreuil, and proceeding met a company of foote (being now
within the inroades of the parties which dangerously infest this day's
journey from St Omers and the Frontiers) which we drew very neere
to, ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly were order'd
and led by a captaine of our traine ; but as we were on yc speede, they
cal'd out, and prov'd to be Scotchmen newly rais'd and landed, and few
arm'd among them. This night we were well treated at Bollogne.
The next day we march'd in good order, the passage being now ex
ceeding dangerous, and got to Calais by a little after 2. The sun so
scorch'd my face that it made ye skin peel off.
I din'd with Mr. Booth his Majesty's Agent, and about 3 in ye af
ternoone imbark'd in the packet-boat : hearing there was a pirate then
also setting saile, we had security from molestation, and so with a fair
S. W. wind, in 7 hours we landed at Dover. The buisy watchman
would have us to the Major to be searched, but the gent, being in bed
we were dismiss'd.
Next day, being Sonday, they would not permit us to ride post, so
that afternoone our trunks were visited.
The next morning by 4 we sat out for Canterbury, where I met with
my Lady Catherine Scot, whom that very day twelve months before I
met at sea going for France ; she had ben visiting Sr Tho. Peyton not
far off, and would needes carry me in her coach to Gravesend. We
din'd at Sittingbourn, came late to Gravesend, and so to Deptford,
taking leave of my lady about 4 the next morning.
5th July. I supped in the Citty with my Lady Cath. Scott at on
Mr. Dubois, where was a gentlewoman call'd Everard, that was a very
great Chymist.

1650.] 247
Sunday 7 July. In the afternoone having a mind to see what was
doing among the Rebells, then in full possession at White-hall, I went
thither and found one at exercise in the Chapell, after their way; thence
to St. James's, where another was preaching in the Court abroad.
17- I went to London to obtain a passe, intending but a short stay
in England. ,
25th. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sr Rob. Cook and my
sister Glanvill ; the country was now much molested by souldiers, who
tooke away gentlemen's horses for the service of the State as then call'd.
4 Aug. I heard a sermon at the Rolls ; and in the afternoone wan-
der'd to divers churches, the pulpits full of novices and novelties.
6th. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who shew'd me an excellent
copie of Titian.
12 July. Sat out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and so that
night to Canterbury, where being surpriz'd by the souldiers, and
having only an antiquated passe, with some fortunate dexterity I got
cleare of them, tho' not without extraordinary hazard, having before
counterfeited one with successe, it being so difficult to procure one of
the Rebells without entering into oathes, which I never would do.
At Dover money to the searchers and officers was as authentiq as the
hand and seale of Bradshaw himselfe, where I had not so much as my
trunk open'd.
13. At 6 in the evening set saile for Calais, the wind not favour
able I was very sea sick, coming to an anker about one o'clock ; about
five in the morning we had a long boate to carry us to land tho' at a
good distance ; this we willingly enter'd, because two vessells were
chasing us, but being now almost at the harbour's mouth, thro' inad
vertency there brake in upon us two such heavy seas as had almost
sunk the boate, I being neere the middle up in water. Our steeresman
it seemes apprehensive of the danger was preparing to leape into ye sea
and trust to swimming, but seeing the vessell emerge, he put her into
the Pier, and so, God be thanked ! we got to Calais, tho' wett.
Here I waited for company, ye passage towards Paris being still in
fested with volunteers from the Spanish frontiers.

248 [FRANCE. 1650.
16. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about 1400 horse and
foote (amongst them was a Capt. whom I knew), being come to towne,
I took horses for myselfe and servant, and march'd under their protec
tion to Boulogne. 'Twas a miserable spectacle to see how these tatter'd
souldiers pillag'd ye poore people of their sheepe, poultry, corne, catell,
and whatever came in their way ; but they had such ill pay that they
were ready themselves to starve.
As we pass'd St. Denis the people were in uproar, ye guards doubl'd,
and every body running with their moveables to Paris, on an alarme
that the Enemy was within 5 leagues of them, so miserably expos'd
was even this part of France at this time.
The 30th I got to Paris, after an absence of two moneths onely.
1 Sept. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner; Paris, and indeede
all France being full of loyall fugitives.
Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which the Popish
midwife had baptiz'd.
Oct. 15. Sr Tho. Osborn (afterwards Lord Treasurer) and Lord
Stanhop shot for a wager of 5 Louis to be spent on a treat ; they shot
so exact that it was a drawn match.
Nov. 1. Took leave of my Lord Stanhop going on his journey to
wards Italy : also visited my Ld Hatton, Comptroller of his Maties
Household, the Countesse of Morton Governesse to the Lady Hen
rietta, and Mrs. Garder one of the Queen's Maids of Honour.
6. Sr Tho. Osborn supping with us, his groome was set upon in
the streete before our house and receiv'd two wounds, but gave the
assassin nine, who was carried off to the Charity hospital. Sr Tho.
went for England on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to my
friends. 16. I went to Monsr Visse's, the French King's Secretary, to a con
cert of French music and voices, consisting of 24, two theorbo's and but
one bass viol, being a rehearsal of what was to be sung at vespers at
St. Cecilia's, on her feast, she being patronesse of Musitians. News
ariv'd of the death of the Pr. of Orange of the small pox.
14 Dec. I went to visite Mr. Ratcliffe, in whose lodging was an
impostor that had like to have impos'd upon us a pretended secret of

paris. 1650-1.] 249
multiplying gold ; 'tis certain he had liv'd some time in Paris in extra-
ordinarie splendor, but I found him to be an egregious cheate.
22. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visite me.
31. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection the past yeare,
and made up my accompts, which came this yeare to 7015 livres, neere
.^.600 sterling.
1651. 1 Jan. I wrote to my brother at Wotton about his garden
and fountaines. After evening Prayer Mr. Wainsford called on me :
he had long ben Consul at Aleppo, and told me many strange things
of those countries, the Arabs especially.
27- 1 had letters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my grandmother-in-
law ; she had a most tender care of me during my childhood, and was a
woman of extraordinarie charity and piety.
29. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. 34, shewing the mischiefe of
covetousnesse. My Ld Marq. of Ormond and lnchiqueen, come newly
out of Ireland, were this day at Chapell.
9 Feb. Card1 Mazarine was proscrib'd by Arret du Parlement, and
great commotions began in Paris.
23. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a Convent that has a fayr
cloister painted with ye lives of the Eremites ; a glorious altar now
erecting in the chapell; the garden on a rock with divers descents, with
a fine vineyard and a delicate prospect towards the Citty.
24. I went to see a Dromedarie, a very monstrous beaste, much
like the Camel but larger. There was also dauncing on the rope ; but
above all surprizing to those who were ignorant of the addresse, was the
water-spouter*, who drinking only fountaine water, rendred out of his
mouth in severall glasses all sorts of wine and sweete waters, &c. For
a piece of money he discover'd the secret to me. I waited on Frier
Nicholas at the Convent at Challiot, who being an excellent chymist
shew'd me his Laboratorie and rare collection of Spagyrical remedies.
He was both physitian and apothecarie of yB Convent, and insteade of
ye names of his drogues painted his boxes and potts with ye figure of
ye drug or simple contain'd in them. He shew'd me as a raritie some
* Florian Marchand. He afterwards exhibited himself in England. Prefixed to an Account of
his exploits is a wood-cut of him.
VOL. I. 2 K

250 [paris. 1651.
S of antimonie* : he had cur'd Monsr Senetan of a desperate sicknesse,
for wch there was building a monumental altar that was to cost ^.1500.
11th March. I went to the Chatelet or Prison, where a malefactor
was to have the question or torture given to him, he refusing to con
fess the robbery with which he was charg'd, which was thus : they
first bound his wrist with a strong rope or small cable, and one end of
it to an iron ring made fast to ye wall about 4 foote from ye floore, and
then his feete with another cable, fastned about 5 foot farther than his
uttmost length to another ring on the floore of the roome : thus sus
pended and yet lying but aslant, they slid an horse of wood under the rope
wch bound his feete, which so exceedinglystiffned it, as sever'd the fellow's
joynts in miserable sort, drawing him out at length in an extraordinary
manner, he having onely a paire of linnen drawers on his naked body :
then they questioned him of a robbery (the Lieutenant Criminal being
present, and a clearke that wrote), which not confessing, they put an
higher horse under the rope, to increase the torture and extension. In
this agonie, confessing nothing, the Executioner with a home (just
such as they drench horses with) stuck the end of it into his mouth,
and poured the quantity of two bouketts of water down his throat and
over him, which so prodigiously swelled him, as would have pittied and
affrighted any one to see it ; for all this, he denied all that was charged
to him. They then let him downe, and carried him before a warme
fire to bring him to himselfe, being now to all appearance dead wh
paine. What became of him I know not ; but the gent, whom he
robbed constantly averr'd him to be the man, and the fellow's suspitious
pale lookes, before he knew he shold be rack'd, betraied some guilt : The
Lieutenant was also of y* opinion, and told us at first sight (for he was
a leane, dry, black young man) he would conquer the torture ; and so
it seemes they could not hang him, but did use in such cases, where the
evidence is very presumptive, to send them to the gallies, which is as
bad as death.
There was another Malefactor to succeede, but the spectacle was so
uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay the sight of another. It
* Qu. some preparation of it ; since perfected by Dr. James, whose name it now bears.

paris. 1651.] 251
represented yet to me, the intolerable sufferings which our Blessed
Saviour must needes undergo when his body was hanging with all its
weight upon the nailes on the crosse.
20. I went this night with my wife to a Ball at the Marquiss de
Crevecceur's, where were divers Princes, Dukes and greate persons, but
what appeared to me very meane was that it began wth a puppet-play.
6 May. I attended the Ambassador to a Masque at Court, where
the French King in person daunced five enteries : but being ingag'd in
discourse and better entertained with one of the Queene Regent's Secre
taries, I soon left the entertainment.
11. To the Palais Cardinal, where ye Masf of Ceremonies plac'd
me to see ye royal masque or opera. The first sceane represented a
chariot of singers compos'd of the rarest voices that could be procur'd,
representing Cornaro* and Temperance; this was overthrowne by
Bacchus and his Revellers ; the rest consisted of severall enteries and
pageants of excesse, by all the Elements. A Masque representing Fire
was admirable ; then came a Venus out of ye Clouds. The conclusion
was an Heaven whither all ascended. But the glory of the Masque
was the greate persons performing in it, the French King, his brother
the Duke of Anjou, with all the Grandees of the Court, the King per
forming to the admiration of all. The music was 29 violins vested
a V antiq, but the habits of the Masquers were stupendiously rich and
glorious. 23 May. I went to take leave of yc Ambassrs for Spaine, which
were my Lord Treassr Cottington and Sr Edw. Hide; and as I return'd
I visited Mr. Morine's-j* garden and his other rarities, especialy coralls,
minerals, stones and natural curiosities ; crabs of ya Red Sea, the body
no bigger than a small bird's egg, but flatter, and the 2 leggs or
claws a foote in length. He had aboundance of shells, at least 1000
sorts, which furnish'd a cabinet of greate price ; and had a very cu
rious collection of scarabees and insects, of which he was compiling a
natural historic He had also the pictures of his choice flowers and
plants in miniature. He told me there were 10,000 sorts of tulips
* The famous Venetian writer on Temperance. f See p. 55.

252 [paris. 1651.
onely. He had taille douces out of number ; the head of ye rynoceros
bird, which was very extravagant, and one butterflie resembling a per
fect bird.
25. I went to visit Mr. White, a learned priest and famous philo
sopher, author of the booke De Mundo, with whose worthy brother I
was well acquainted at Rome. I was shew'd a cabinet of Maroquin or
Turkey leather, so curiously inlaid wth other leather, and guilding, that
the workman demanded for it 800 livres.
The Dean (of Peterboro') preach'd on ye feast of Pentecost, per-
stringing those of Geneva for their irreverence of ye Blessed Virgin.
4 June. Trinity Sunday I was absent- from Church in ye afternoone
on a charitable affaire for the Abbesse of Boucharvant, who but for
me had been abus'd by that chymist Du Menie*. Returning I stept
into ye grand Jesuites, who had this high day expos'd their Cibarium,
made all of solid gold and imagerie, a piece of infinite cost. Dr. Croy
don, coming out of Italy and from Padua, came to see me on his return
to England.
5. I accompanied my L. Strafford and some other noble persons to
heare Madame Lavaran sing, wch she did both in French and Italian
excellently well, but her voice was not strong.
7 June, Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession, all the
streetes tapisstred, severall altars erected there, full of images and
other rich furniture, especialy that before the Court, of a rare designe
and architecture. There were aboundance of excellent pictures and
great vases of silver.
13. I went to see ye collection of one Mons1 Poignant, which for
variety of achates, chrystals, onyxes, porcelain, medails, statues, relievos,
paintings, taille douces and antiquities, might compare with the Italian
virtuosos. 21. I became acquainted wth Sr Wm Curtius, a very learned and
judicious person of the Palatinate. He had ben scholar to Alstedius
the Encyclopedist, was well advanc'd in yeares, and now Resident for
his Matie at Frankfort.
* Qu. The person mention'd in page 248 as pretending to have found out ye art of multiplying gold ?

paris. 1651.] 253
2 July. Came to see me the Earle of Strafford, Lord Ossory and his
Brother, Sr John Southcott, Sr Edw: Stawell, two of my Lord Spen
cer's Sonns, and Dr. Stewart Deane of St. Paules, a learned and pious
man, where we entertained the time upon severall subjects, especialy
the affaires of England and the lamentable condition of our Church.
The Lord Gerrard also called to see my collection of sieges and battles,
21 July. An extraordinary fast was celebrated in our Chapell, Dr.
Steward Dean of St. Paul's preaching.
2 Aug. I went with my wife to Conflans, where were aboundance
of ladys and others bathing in the river ; the ladys had their tents
spread on the water for privacy.
29 Aug. Was kept as a solemne Fast for the calamities of our poore
Church now trampled on by ye Rebells. Mr. Waller being at St. Ger
mains, desir'd me to send him a coach from Paris to bring my wife's
god-daughter to Paris, to be buried by the Common Prayer.
6 Sept. I went with my wife to St. Germains to condole with Mr.
Waller's losse. I carried with me and treated at dinner that excellent
and pious person the Deane of St. Paul's Dr. Steward, and Sir Lewes
Dives (half-brother to ye Earle of Bristol) who entertain'd us with
his wonderful escape out of prison in White-hall the very evening before
he was to have ben put to death, leaping down out of a jakes two
stories high into the Thames at high water, in the coldest of winter
and at night ; so as by swimming he got to a boate that attended for
him, tho' he was guarded by six musqueteeres. After this he went
about in womens habite, and then in a small-coale-man's, travelling
200 miles on foote, embark'd for Scotland with some men he had
raised, who coming on-shore were all surpriz'd and imprison'd on yc
Marq. of Montrose's score, he not knowing any thing of their barbarous
murder of that hero. This he told us was his fifth escape, and none
less miraculous, with this note, that the chargeing thro' 1000 men
arm'd, or whatever danger could befall a man, he believ'd could not
more confound and distract a man's thoughts than the execution of a
premeditated escape, the passions of hope and feare being so strong.
This knight was indeede a valiant gentleman, but not a little given to '
romance when he spake of himselfe. I returned to Paris the same
evening.

254 [paris. 1651.
7 Sept. I went to visite Mr. Hobbs, the famous philosopher of
Malmsbury, with whom I had long acquaintance. From his window
we saw ye whole equipage and glorious cavalcade of the young French
Monarch Lewis XIV. passing to Parliament when first he tooke the
kingly government on him, now being in his 14th yeare, out of his
minority and ye Queene Regent's pupillage. First came ye captaine of
the King's aydes at the head of 50 richly liveried ; next the Queene
Mother's light horse, an hundred, the lieutenant being all over cover'd
with embroiderie and ribbans, having before him 4 trumpets habited in
black velvet, full of lace and casques of ye same; then the King's
light horse, 200, richly habited, with 4 trumpets in blue velvet em
brodred with gold, before whom rid yc Count d'Olonne coronet [cornet^
whose belt was set with pearle ; next went yfc grand Prevost's company
on foote wth ye Prevost on horseback ; after them the Swisse in black
velvet toques led by 2 gallant cavalieres habited in scarlet-colour'd
sattin after their country fashion, which is very fantastick : he had in
his cap a pennach of heron with a band of diamonds, and about him 12
little Swisse boyes with halberds ; then came the Ayde des Ceremonies ;
next the grandees of court, governors of places, and lieutenants gen1, of
provinces, magnificently habited and mounted, among whom I must
not forget the Chevalier Paul, famous for many sea-fights and signal
exploits there, because 'tis said he had never been an Academist, andV
yet govem'd a very unruly horse, and besides his rich suite, his Malta
Cross was esteem'd at 1 0,000 crownes ; these were headed by 2
trumpets, and the whole troup cover'd with gold, jewels, and rich
caparisons, were follow'd by 6 trumpets in blew velvet also, preceeding
as many heralds in blew velvet semee with fleurs de lys, caduces in
their hands and velvet caps on their heads ; behind them came one
of the mastrs of ye ceremonies ; then divers marishalls & many of
the nobility, exceeding splendid ; behind them Count d'Harcourt,
grand escuyer, alone, carrying the King's sword in a scarf, wch he
held up in a blew sheath studded wth fleurs de lys; his horse had
for reines 2 scarfs of black taffata ; then came aboundance of footemen
and pages of the King, new liveried with white and red feathers ; next
yc guard de corps and other officers ; and lastly appear'd the King him-

paris. 1651.] 255
selfe on an Isabella Barb, on wch a houssing semee with crosses of ye
Order of the Holy Ghost, and fleurs de lys ; the King himselfe like a
young Apollo, was in a sute so cover'd with rich embrodry, that one
could perceive nothing of the stuff under it ; he went almost the whole
way with his hat in hand, saluting the ladys and acclamators who
had fill'd the windows with their beauty, and the aire wth Vive le Roy.
He seem'd a prince of a grave yet sweete countenance. After the King
follow'd divers greate persons of ye Court exceeding splendid, also his
esquires, masters of horse on foote, then the company of Exempts des
Gards, and 6 guards of Scotch ; 'twixt their files were divers princes of
ye blood, dukes, and lords ; after all these, the Queene's guard of
Swisse, pages, and footemen ; then the Queene Mother herselfe in a
rich coach, wth Monsieur ye King's brother, the Duke of Orleans, and
some other lords and ladys of honour ; about the coach march'd her
Exempts des Gards, then the company of the King's Gens d'armes
well mounted, 150, with 4 trumpets and as many of the Queene's;
lastly, an innumerable company of coaches full of ladys and gallants.
In this equipage pass'd the Monarch to ye Parliament, henceforth
exercising his kingly government.
15 Sept. I accompanied S1' Richd Browne, my father-in-law, to
the French Court, where he had a favourable audience of the French
King and the Queene his Mother, congratulating the one on his
coming to ye exercise of his royal charge, and the other's prudent and
happy administration during her late Regency, desiring both to preserve
ye same amitie for his Master, our King, as they had hitherto don,
which they both promis'd with many civil expressions and words of
course upon such occasions. We were accompanied both going and
returning by ye Introductor of Ambassadors and Ayd of Ceremonies. I
also saw yc audience of Morosini ye Ambassador of Venice, and divers
other Ministers of State from German Princes, Savoy, &c. After
wards I tooke a walke in ye King's gardens, where I observ'd that the
Mall gos the whole square thereof next yc wall, and bends with an
angle so made as to glace [glance] ye ball ; the angle is of stone.
There's a basin at the end of the garden fed by a noble fountaine and
high jetto. There were in it 2 or 3 boates in wch the King now and

256 [paris. 1651.
then rowes about. In another part is a compleate fort, made with
bastions, graft, halfe-moones, ravelins, and furnish'd wth greate gunns
cast on purpose to instruct the King in fortification.
22. Ariv'd ye news of ye fatal battail at Worcester, which exceed
ingly mortified our expectations.
28. I was shew'd a collection of books and prints made for the D.
of York.
1 Oct. The Dean of Peterborough [Dr. Cosin] preach'd on 13
Job v. 15, encouraging our trust in God on all events and extremities,
and for establishing and comforting some ladys of greate qualitie, who
were then to be discharg'd from our Q. Mother's service, -unlesse they
would go over to ye Romish Masse.
The Dean dining this day at our house, told me the occasion of pub
lishing those Offices which among the Puritans were wont to be call'd
Cosin's cousining Devotions*, by way of derision. At the first coming
of the Queene into England, she and her French ladys were often
upbraiding our religion, that had neither appointed nor set, forth any
houres of prayer or breviaries, by which ladies and courtiers, who have
much spare time, might edify and be in devotion, as they had. Our
Protestant ladys, scandaliz'd it seemes at this, mov'd the matter to ye
King, whereupon his Ma1* presently call'd Bishop White to him,
and asked his thoughts of it, and whether there might not be found
some formes of prayer proper on such occasions, collected out of some
already approv'd formes, that so the court ladys and others (who spend
much time in trifling) might at least appeare as devout, and be so too,
as the new-come-over French ladys, who tooke occasion to reproch our
want of zeale and religion. On weh the Bishop told his Ma** that it
might be don easily and was very necessary ; whereupon ye King com
manded him to employ some person of ye Cleargy to compile such a
work, and presently ye Bishop naming Dr. Cosin, ye King injoyn'd him
* So called by Mr. Prynne in his brief survey of this book. The Dean was sequestered from all
his preferments by the Parliament, and went abroad to Paris 1643. He kept up the service of the
Church of England in Sir Richard Browne's chapel there, see pp. 244, 252. On the Restoration
he was made Bishop of Durham, to which See, as well as to Peter House, at Cambridge, of which
he had been Master, he was a most munificent benefactor. He died in 1671. See Biog. Brit, the
new Edition by Dr. Kippis.

PARIS. 1651.] 257
to charge ye Dr in his name to set about it immediately. This the
Dean told me he did, and 3 monethes after bringing the book to ye
King, he commanded ye Bishop of London to reade it over and make
his report ; this was so well lik'd that (contrary to former custome of
doing it by a chaplain) he would needes give it an imprimatur under
his owne hand. Upon this there were at first onely 200 copies printed;
nor, said he, was there any thing in yc whole book of my owne com
posure, nor did 1 set any name as author to it, but those necessary
prefaces, &c. out of the Fathers, touching the times and seasons of
prayer, all the rest being intirely translated and collected out of an
Office publish'd by authority of Q. Elizabeth, a0 1560, and our owne
Liturgie. This I rather mention to justify that industrious and pious
Deane, who had exceedingly suffer'd by it, as if he had don it of his
owne head to introduce Popery, from which no man was more averse,
and one who in this time of temptation and apostacy held and confirm'd
many to our Church *.
29 Oct". Came newes and letters to the Queene and Sr Rich. Browne
(who was ye first that had intelligence of it) of his Ma1*15 miraculous
escape after ye fight at Worcester, which exceedingly rejoiced us.
7 Nov. I visited Sr Kenelm Digby, with whom I had much discourse
of chymical matters. I shew'd him a particular way of extracting oyle
of sulphur, and he gave me a certaine powder wth wch he affirm'd that
he had fix'd $ (mercury) before the late King; he advis'd me to try
and digest a little better, and gave me a water wch he said was onely
raine water of the autumnal equinox exceedingly rectified, very volatile;
it had a taste of a strong vitrioliq, and smelt like aqua fortis. He in
tended it for a dissolvent of calx of gold ; but the truth is, Sir Kenelm
was an errant mountebank. — Came news of ye gallant Earle of Derby's
execution by ye Rebells.

* The Clergy who attended ye English Court in France at this time and are mentioned to have
officiated in Sr Rich4 Browne's Chapel were : The Bishop of Galloway ; Dr. Geo. Morley, after
wards Bishop of Winchester ; Dr. Cosin, Dean of Peterborough, afterwards Bishop of Durham;
Dr. Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's ; Dr. Earle ; Dr. Clare ; Dr. Wolley, no great Preacher j Mr.
Crowder ; Dr. Lloyd ; Mr. Hamilton ; Dr. Duncan.
VOL. I. 2 L

258 [paris. 1651.
12. Dr. Clare preach'd on 28 Gen, v. 20, 21, 22," upon" Jacob's
vowe, which he appositely applied, it being ye first Sonday his Ma*
came to Chapell after his escape. I went in the afternoone to visite
the Earle of Norwich ; he lay at ye Lord of Aubignies.
16. Visited Dean Stewart, who had ben sick about 2 daies, when
going up to his lodging I found him dead, which affected me much, as
besides his particular affection and love to me, he was of incomparable
parts and great learning, of exemplary life, and a very greate losse to ye
whole Church. He was buried yc next day with all our Church's cere
monies, many noble persons accompanying the corps.
17. I went to congratulate ye marriage of Mrs. Gardner, maid of
honor, lately married to that odd person Sir Hen. Wood : but riches
do many things.
I went to see Monsr Febur's course of Chymistrie, where I found
Sr Kenelm Digby and divers curious persons of learning and qua
lity. It was his first opening the course and preliminarys in order to
operations. 1 Dec. I now resolv'd to returne into England.
3. Sir Lewis Dives din'd with us, who relating some of his adven
tures, shew'd me divers pieces of broad gold which, being in his pocket
in a fight, preserv'd his life by receiving a musket-bullet on them,
which deaden'd its violence so that it went no further, but made such a
stroake on the gold as fix'd the impressions upon one. another, battering
and bending severall of them ; the bullet itselfe was flatted, and retain'd
on it the colour of the gold. He assur'd us that of an hundred of them,
which it seems he then had in his pocket, not one escap'd without
some blemish. He affirm* d that his being protected by a Neapolitan
Prince who conniv'd at his bringing some horses into France, contrary
to the order of ye Vice-roy, by assistance of some banditti, was the oc
casion of a difference betweene those greate men, and consequently of
ye late civil war in that kingdom, the Vice-roy having kill'd the Prince
standing on his defence at his owne castle. He told me that the second
time of the Scots coming into England, the King was six times their
number, and might easily have beaten them, but was betraied, as were
all other his designes and councils by some, even of his bed-chamber,

paris. 1651.] 259
meaning M. Hamilton, who copied Montrose's letters from time to
time when his Ma* was asleepe.
11. Came to visite me Mr. Obadiah Walker of University College,
wth his two Pupils the sons of my worthy friend Hen. Hyldiard, Esq.*
whom I had recommended to his care.
21. Came to visite my wife Mrs. Lane, the lady who conveied the
King to the sea-side at his escape from Worcester. Mr. John Cosin,
son to ye Dean, debauch'd by ye Priests, wrote a letter to me to me
diate for him with his father. I prepar'd for my last journey, being
now resolv'd to leave France altogether.
25. The King and Duke receiv'd the Sacrament first by themselves,
ye Lords Biron and Wilmot holding ye long towell all along the altar.
26. Came news of ye death of that Rebell Ire ton.
31. Breached Dr. Wolley, after which was celebrated ye Holy
Communion, wh I received also, preparative of my journey, being now
resolved to leave France altogether, and to returne God Almighty
thanks for his gracious protection of me this past yeare.
1652, 2 Jan. News of my sister Glanville's death in childbed,
which exceedingly affected me.
I went to one Mark Antonio, an incomparable artist in enamailing.
He wrought by the lamp figures in bosse of a large size, even to ye life,
so that nothing could be better moulded. He told us greate stories
of a Genoese Jeweller who had the greate Arcanum, and had made
projection before him severall times. He mett him at Cyprus travell
ing into Egypt, in his returne from whence he died at sea, and the
secret wth him, that else he had promis'd to have left it to him ; that
all his effects were seized on and dissipated by the Greekes in the ves
sell to an immense value. He also affirm'd, that being in a Gold
smith's shop at Amsterdam, a person of very low stature came in and
desir'd the goldsmith to mealt him a pound of lead, which don he un-
screw'd ye pummel of his sword, and taking out of a little box a small
quantity of powder, casting it into the crucible, pour'd an ingot out,
which when cold he tooke up, saying, " Sir, you will be paid for

* Of East Horsley in Surrey.

260 [paris. 1652,
your lead in the crucible," and so went out immediately. When he
was gon the goldsmith found 4 ounces of good gold in it, but could
never set eye againe on ye little man, tho' he sought all yB Citty for
him. This Antonio asserted with greate obtestation, nor know I what
to think of it, there are so many impostors and people who love to tell
strange stories, as this artist did, who had been a greate rover, and
spake 10 different languages.
13 Jan. I tooke leave of Mr. Waller, who having ben pmscrib'd
by the Rebells, had obtain'd of them permission to returne, was going
to England.
29. Aboundance of my French and English friends and some Ger
mans came to take leave of me, and I sat out in a coach for Calais, in
an exceeding hard frost which had continued some time. We got that
night to Beaumont; 30. to Beauvais ; 31. we found the ways very
deepe wtb snow, and it was exceeding cold ; din'd at Pois ; lay at
Pernee, a miserable cottage of miserable people in a wood, wholly un-
furnish'd, but in a little time we had sorry beds and some provision,
wch they told me they hid in yc wood for feare of the frontier enemy,
the garrisons neere them continually plundering what they had. They
were often infested with wolves. I cannot remember that I ever saw
more miserable creatures.
1 Feb. 1 din'd at Abbeville ; 2. din'd at Montreuil, lay at Bol-
logne ; 3. came to Calais by 11 in the morning; I thought to have
embarqu'd in the evening, but for feare of Pyrates plying neere the
coast, I durst not trust our small vessell, and staid till Monday follow
ing, when 2 or 3 lusty vessells were to depart.
I brought with me frOm Paris Mr. Christr. Wase, sometime before
made to resigne his fellowship in King's Coll. Cambridge, because he
would not take the Covenant. He had ben a souldier in Flanders, and
came miserable to Paris. From his excellent learning, and some rela
tion he had to Sr R. Browne, I bore his charges into England, and
clad and provided for him till he should find some better condition ; and
he was worthy of it *. There came with us also Capt. Griffith, Mr.
Tyrell, brother to Sr Timothy Tyrell of Shotover (near Oxford).
* Mr. Evelyn did afterwards procure him a situation.

1652.] 261
At Calais I dined with my Ld Wentworth, and met with Mr. Heath,
Sr Richd Lloyd, Capt. Paine, and divers of our banish'd friends, of
whom understanding that the Count de la Strade Governor of Dyn-
kirke was in the towne, who had bought my wife's picture, taken by
Pyrates at sea the year before (my wife having sent it for me in Eng
land) as my Lord of Norwich had inform'd me at Paris, I made my
addresse to him, who frankly told me that he had such a picture in
his owne bed-chamber amongst other ladys, and how he came by it ;
seeming well pleas'd that it was his fortune to preserve it for me, and
he generously promis'd to send it to any friend I had at Dover ; I
mentioned a French merehant there, and so tooke my leave *.
6 Feb. I embark'd early in yc packet->boat, but put my goods in a
stouter vessell. 'Twas calm, so that we got not to Dover till 8 at
night. I tooke horse for Canterbury, and lay at Rochester; next day
to Gravesend, tooke a pair of oares, and landed- at Sayes Court, where
I stayed 3 days to refresh and look after my packet and goods, sent by
a stouter vessell. I went to visit my co: Rich. Fanshawe, and divers
other friends.
March 6. Saw the magnificent funeral of that Arch-rebell Ireton,
carried in pomp from Somerset House to Westm1, accompanied with
divers regiments of souldiers horse and foote ; then marched ye
mourners, Gen1. Cromwell (his father-in-law), his mock-parliament-
men, officers, and 40 poore men in gownes, 3 led horses in housings
of black cloth, 2 led in black velvet, and his charging-horse all co
ver'd over with embrodery and gold on crimson velvet ; then the guy-
dons, ensignes, 4 heraulds carrying the armes of the State (as they
cal'd it), namely, ye red crosse and Ireland, with the casq, wreath,
sword, spurrs, &c. ; next, a chariot canopied of black velvet and 6
horses, in which was the corps ; the pall held up by the mourners on
foote ; the mace and sword, with other marks of bis charge in Ireland
(where he died of ye plague), carried before in black scarfs. Thus in a
grave pace, drums cover'd with cloth, souldiers reversing their armes,
they proceeded through the streetes in a very solemn manner. This
* The picture was afterwards sent accordingly, see p. 263.

262 [1652.
Ireton was a stout rebell, and had ben very bloudy to the King's party,
witnesse his severity at Colchester, when in cold blood he put to death
those gallant gentlemen, Sir Cha. Lucas and Sir George Lisle. My
co. R. Fanshawe came to visite me and informe me of many consider
able affaires. Sir Henry Herbert presented me with his brother my
Ld Cherburie's book " De Veritate."
9. I went to Deptford, where I made preparation for my settle
ment, no more intending to go out of England, but endeavour a settl'd
life, either in this or some other place, there being now so little appear
ance of any change for the better, all being entirely in ye Rebells
hands, and this particular habitation and the estate contiguous to it
(belonging to my father-in-law actually in his Majesty's service), very
much suffering for want of some friend to rescue it out of the power of
the usurpers ; so as to preserve our interest, and take some care of my
other concernes, by the advice and endeavour of my friends I was ad
vis'd to reside in it, and compound with the souldiers. This I was be
sides authoriz'd by his Maty to do, and encourag'd with a promise that
what was in lease from the Crowne, if ever it pleas'd God to restore
him, he would secure to us in fee-ferme. I had also addresses and
cyfers to correspond wth his Maty and Ministers abroad : upon all which
inducements I was persuaded to settle henceforth in England, having
now run about the world, most part out of my owne country, neere 10
yeares. I therefore now likewise meditated sending over for my wife,
whom as yet I had left at Paris.
14 Mar. I went to Leusham, where I heard an honest sermon
on 2 Corinth. 5, 7, being the first Sonday I had ben at church since my
returne, it being now a rare thing to find a priest of the Church of Eng
land in a parish pulpit, most of which were fill'd with Independents
and Phanatics.
15 Mar. I saw yK Diamond and Ruby launch'd in ye Dock at
Deptford, carrying 48 brasse cannon each. Cromwell and his Gran
dees present with greate acclamations.
18. That worthy divine Mr. Owen of Eltham, a sequestered per
son, came to visite me.
19. Invited by Lady Gerrard I went to London, where we had a

1652.] 263
greate supper; all the vessells, which were innumerable, were of Porce-
lan, she having the most ample and richest collection of that curiositie
in England.
22. I went with my brother Evelyn to Wotton to give him what
directions I was able about his garden, which he was nov/ desirous to
put into some forme; but for which he was to remove a mountaine
overgrowne wth huge trees and thicket, wth a moate within 10 yards of
the house. This my brother immediately attempted, and that without
greate cost, for more than an hundred yards South, by digging downe
the mountaine and flinging it into a rapid streame, it not onely carried
away the sand, &c. but filled up the moate, and level'd that noble area,
where now the garden and fountaine is*. The first occasion of my bro
ther making this alteration was my building ye little retiring place be
tweene the greate wood Eastward next the meadow, where sometime
after my father's death I made a triangular pond, or little stew, with
an artificial rock after my coming out of Flanders.
29 Mar. I heard y' excellent Prelate the Primate of Ireland (Jacob :
Usher) preach in Lincoln's Inn, on 4 Heb. 16, encouraging of peni
tent sinners.
5 April. My brother Geo. brought to Says Court Cromwell's Act of
Oblivion to all that would submit to the Government.
13. News was brought me that Lady Cotton, my brother George's
wife, was deliver'd of a son.
I was moved by a letter out of France to publish the letter which
sometime since I sent to Deane Cosin's proselyted son ; but I did not
conceive it convenient, for feare of displeasing her Maty the Queene.
15. I wrote to ye Deane touching my buying his library, which
was one of the choicest collections of any private person in England.
The Count de Strade most generously and handsomely sent me the
picture of my wife from Dynkirk (see pp. 236, 2611 in a large tin case,
without any charge. It is of Mr. Bourdon, and is that which has ye
dog in it, and is to the knees, but it has been something spoil'd by
washing it ignorantly with soap-suds.
* The fountain remains (1818.)

264 [1652.
25. I went to visit Aid. Kendrick, a Fanatic Lord Mayor, who
had married a relation of ours, where I met with a Captain who had
been thirteen times to the East Indies.
29. Was that celebrated eclipse of the sun so much threatened by ye
astrologers, and which had so exceedingly alarm'd the whole Nation
that hardly any one would worke, nor stir out of their houses. So
ridiculously were they abus'd by knavish and ignorant star-gazers.
We went this afternoone to see ye Queene's House at Greenwich,
now given by the rebells to Bulstrbde Whitlock, one of their unhappy
counsellors, and keeper of pretended liberties.
10 May. Passing by Smithfield I saw a miserable creature burning
who had murder'd her husband. I went to see some workmanship of
that admirable artist Reeves, famous for perspective and turning curio
sities in ivorie.
29. I went to take order about a coach to be made against my
wife's coming, being my first coach, the pattern whereof I brought out
of Paris.
30. I went to obtain of my Lord of Devonshire that my nephew
George might be brought up with my young Lord his son, to whom I
was recommending Mr. Wase. I also inspected the manner of cham-
bletting silk and grograms at one Monsr La Dorees in Morefields, and
thence to Coll. Morley, one of their Councel of State, as then call'd,
who. had ben my scholefellow, to request a passe for my wife's safe
landing, and the goods she was to bring with her out of France, wch he
courteously granted, and did me many other kindnesses, that was a
greate matter in those daies.
30. In the afternoone at Charlton Church, where I heard a Rabi-
nical sermon. Here is a faire monument in black marble of Sir Adam
Newton, who built that faire house neere it for Prince Henry, and
where my noble friend Sir Henry Newton succeeded him.
3 June. I receiv'd a letter from Coll. Morley to ye Magistrates and
Searchers at Rie, to assist my wife at her landing and shew her all
civility. %
4. I set out to meet her now on her journey from Paris, after she
had obtain'd leave to come out of y1 Citty, wch had now ben besieged

1652.] 265
some time by ye Prince of Conde's armie in ye time of the rebellion,
and after she had ben now neere twelve yeares from her owne country,
that is since five yeares of age, at wch time she went over. I went to
Rie to meet her, where was an embargo on occasion of the late conflict
wth the Holland fleete, the two Nations being now in warr, and which
made sailing very unsafe.
On Whitsunday I went to the Church (wch is a very faire one), and
heard one of their Canters, who dismiss'd the assembly rudely and
without any blessing. Here I stay'd till yc 10th with, no small impa
tience, when I walk'd over to survey the ruines of Winchelsea, that
ancient Cinq-port, which by the remaines and ruines of ancient streetes
and public structures discovers it to have ben formerly a considerable
and large Citty. There are to be seene vast caves and vaults, walls
and towers, ruines of monasteries and of a sumptuous church, in which
are some handsom monuments, especialy of the Templars, buried just
in the manner of those in the Temple at London. This place being
now all in rubbish, and a few despicable hovells and cottages onely
standing, hath yet a Major. The sea wch formerly render'd it a rich
and commodious port has now forsaken it.
11. About 4 in ye afternoone being at bowles on ye Greene, we dis-
cover'd a vessell, which prov'd to be that in which my wife was, and
which got into ye harbour about 8 y* evening to my no small joy. They
had ben three days at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleete, thro' which
they pass'd, taken for fishers, wch was great good fortune, there being
17 bailes of furniture and other rich plunder, wch I blesse God came all
safe to land, together wth my wife, and my Lady Browne her mother,
who accompanied her. My wife being discompos'd by having been so
long at sea, we set not forth towards home till ye 14th; when hearing
the small-pox was very rife in and about London, and Lady Browne
having a desire to drink Tunbridge waters, 1 carried them thither and
staied in a very sweete place, private and refreshing, and tooke the
waters myself till the 23d, when I went. to prepare for their reception,
leaving them for yc present in their little cottage by the Wells. The
weather being hot, and having sent my man on before, I rod negli
gently under favour of the shade, till within three miles of Bromley, at
vol. 1. 2 m

266 [1652.
a place call'd the Procession Oake, two cut-throates started out, and
striking with long staves at ye horse and taking hold of the reines threw
me downe, tooke my sword, and haled me into a deepe thickett some
quarter of a mile from the highway, where they might securely rob
me, as they soone did. What they got of money was not considerable,
but they took two rings, the one an emerald with diamonds, the other an
onyx, and a pair of bouckles set with rubies and diamonds, which were of
value, and after all bound my hands behind me, and my feete, having
before pull'd off my bootes; they then set me up against an oake, wtb
most bloudy threats to cutt my throat if I offer'd to crie out or make any-
noise, for they should be within hearing, I not being the person they
looked for. I told them if they had not basely surpriz'd me they should
not have; had so easy a prize, and that it would teach me never to ride neere
an hedge, since had I ben in ye mid-way they durst not have adventur'd on
me; at which they cock'd their pistols, and told me they had long guns too,
and were 14 companions. I begg'd for my onyx, and told them it being
engraven with my armes would betray them, but nothing prevail'd. My
horse's bridle they slipt, and search'd yc saddle, which they pull'd off, but
let the horse graze, and then turning againe bridl'd him and tied him to a
tree, yet so as he might graze, and thus left me bound. My horse was
perhaps not taken because he was mark'd and cropt on both eares, and
well known on that roade. Left in this manner grievously was I tor
mented with flies, ants, and ye sunn, nor was my anxiety little how I should
get loose in that solitary place, where I could neither heare or see any
creature but my poore horse and a few sheepe stragling in the copse.
After neere 2 houres attempting I got my hands to turn palm to palm,
having been tied back to'back, and then it was long before I could slip
the cord over my wrists to my thumb, which at last I did, and then
soone unbound my feete, and saddling my horse and roaming awhile
about I at last perceiv'd dust to rise, and soone after heard the rattling
of a cart, towards which I made, and by the help of two country men
I got back into the high way. I rode to Coll. Blount's, a greate jus-
ticiarie of the times, who sent out hue and cry immediately. The next
morning, sore as my wrists and armes were, I went to London and
got 500 tickets printed and dispers'd by an officer of Goldsmiths Hall,

1652.] 267
and within 2 daies had tidings of all I had lost except my sword which
had a silver hilt, and some trifles. The rogues had pawn'd one of my
rings for a trifle to a goldsmith's servant before the tickets came to the
shop, by which meanes they scap'd ; the other ring was bought by a
victualler, who brought it to a goldsmith, but he having seen the ticket
seiz'd the man. I afterwards discharg'd him on his protestation of
innocence. Thus did God deliver me from these villains, and not onely
so, but restor'd what they tooke, as twice before he had graciously don,
both at sea and land ; I meane when I had ben rob'd by pyrates, and
was in danger of a considerable losse at Amsterdam ; for which, and
many, many signal preservations, I am extreamly oblig'd to give
thanks to God my Savtour.
25 May. After a drowth of neare 4 monethes there fell so violent a
tempest of haile, raine, wind, thunder, and lightning, as no man had
seene the like in this age ; the haile being in some places 4 or 5 inches
about, brake all glasse about London, especialy at Deptford, and more
at Greenwich.
29. I return'd to Tunbridge, and againe drank y? water, till 10 July.
We went to see the house of my Lord Clanrickard at Summer-hill
near Tunbridge (now given to that villain Bradshaw who condemned
the King.) 'Tis situated on an eminent hill, with a park, but has no
thing else extraordinary.
4 July. 1 heard a sermon at Mr. Packer's * Chapell at Grooms-
bridge -j-, a pretty melancholy seate, well wooded and water'd. In this
house was one of the French Kings J kept prisoner. The Chapell was
built by Mr. Packer's father, in remembrance of K. Charles the First
his safe returne out of Spaine §.
9. We went to see Penshurst, ye Earl of Leicester's, famous once
for its gardens and excellent fruit, and for the noble conversation which

* Clerk of the Privy Seal to King Charles I.
f In the parish of Speldhurst in Kent, 4 miles from Tunbridge.
+ The Duke of Orleans taken at the battle of Agineourt 4 Hen. V. by Richard Waller, then
owner of this place. Hasted's Kent, vol. I. p. 431.
§ With this inscription over the door, " D. O. M. 1625. ob felicissimi Caroli Principis ex Hispa-
uia reducis Sacellum hoc D. D. I. P." over it the device of the Prince of Wales. lb. 432.

268 [1652.
was wont to meete there, celebrated by that illustrious person Sr Philip
Sidny, who there compos'd divers of his pieces. It stands in a park,
is finely water'd, and was now full of company on yB marriage of my
old fellow collegiate Mr. Rob* Smith, who married my Lady Dorothy
Sidny* widdow of the Earle of Sunderland.
One of the men who robb'd me was taken ; I was accordingly sum-
mon'd to appeare against him, and on the 12th was in Westmr Hall, but
not being bound over nor willing to hang the fellow I did not appeare,
coming onely to save a friend's bade, but" the bill being found he was
turn'd over to the Old Bailev. In the meane time I received a petition
from yB prisoner, whose father I understood was an honest old farmer
in Kent. He was charg'd with other crimes, alid condemn'd, but re-
priev'd. I heard afterwards that had it not been for his companion, a
younger man, he would probably have kill'd me. He was afterwards
charg'd with some other crime, but refusing to plead, was press'd to death.
23. Came my old friend Mr. Spencer to visite me.
30 July. 1 took advice about purchasing Sir Richard's [Browne]
interest of those who had bought Sayes Court.
1 Aug. Came old Jerome Lennier of Greenwich, a man skill'd in
painting and musiq, and another rare musitian call'd Mell. I went to
see his collection of pictures; especialy those of Julio Romano which
surely had ben the King's, and an Egyptian figure, &c. There were
also excellent things of Polydore, Guido, Raphael, Tintoret, &c.
Lennier had been a domestic of Qu. Elizabeth, and shew'd me her
head, an intaglia in a rare sardonyx, cut by a famous Italian, which
he assur'd me was exceeding like her.
24. ' My first child, a sonn, was born precisely at one o'clock.
Sept 2. Mr. Owen, the sequestered Divine of Eltham, christened
my sonn by the name of Richard.
25. I went to see Dr. Mason's house, so famous for the prospect
(for the house is a wretched one) and description in Barclay's Icon
Animarum -j".

* Mr. Waller's Sacharissa, daughter of Philip Earl of Leicester.
t The book here referred to is in the British Museum, intitled, " Joannis Barclaii Icon Anima
rum," printed at London 1614, small 12mo. It is written in Latin, and is dedicated to Lewis

1652.] 269
22. I went to Woodcot, where Lady Browne was taken with a
scarlet fever and died. She was carried to Deptford, and rnterr'd in the
Church neere Sir Richard's relations with all decent ceremonies, and
according to the Church Office, for which I obtain'd permission, after
it had not ben us'd in that Church of 7 yeares. Thus ended an excel
lent and virtuous lady, universally lamented, having ben so obliging
on all occasions to those who continualy frequented her house in Paris,
which was not only an hospital, but an asylum to all our persecuted and
afflicted countrymen during 11 yeares residence there in that honorable
situation. 5 Nov. I went to London to visite some friends, but ye insolencies
were so greate in ye streetes that I could not returne till ye next day.
Dr. Scarborough was instant with me to give the Tables of Veins
and Arteries to ye CoUedge of Physitians, pretending he would not
onely reade upon them, but celebrate my curiositie as being the first
who caus'd them to be compleated in that manner, and with that cost ;
but I was not so willing yet to part with them, as to lend them to the
CoUedge during their anatomical lectures, wch I did accordingly.
22. I went to London, where was propos'd to me the promoting that
greate work, (since accomplish'd by Dr. Walton, Bishop of Chester)
Biblia Polyglotta, by Mr. Pierson that most learned divine.
25. Christmas day, no sermon any where, no Church being per
mitted to be open, so observ'd it at home. The next day we went to
Lewesham, where an honest divine preach'd.
31 Dec. I adjusted all accompts, and render'd thanks to Almighty
God for his mercys to me the yeare past.
1 Jan. 1653. I set apart in preparation for the B. Sacrament which
the next day Mr. Owen administered to me and all my family in »Sayes
Court, preaching on 6 John 32. 33. shewing the exceeding benefits of

XIII. of France, for what reason does not appear, the Author speaking of himself as a subject of
this Country. It mentions the necessity of forming the minds of youth, as a skilful gardener forms
his trees; the different dispositions of men in different nations ; English, Scotch, and Irish, &c.
Cap. 2, contains a florid description of the beautiful scenery about Greenwich, but does not men
tion Dr. Mason or his house.

270 [1G53-
our blessed Saviour takiqg our nature upon him. He had christened
my son and churched my wife in our own house, as before noticed.
17 Jan. I began to set out the ovall garden at Sayes Court, which
was before a rude orchard and all ye rest one intire field of 100 acres,
without any hedge, except ye hither holly hedge joyning to yc bank of
the mount walk. This was the beginning of all the succeeding gardens,
walks, groves, enclosures, and plantations there.
21. I went to London and seal'd some of the writings of my pur
chase of Sayes Court.
30 Jan. At our own parish Church a stranger preach'd. There was
now and then an honest orthodox man got into the pulpit, and tho' the
present incumbent was somewhat of the Independent, yet he ordinarily
preach'd sound doctrine, and was a peaceable man, which was an ex
traordinary felicity in this age.
1 Feb. Old Alexr Rosse (author of " Virgilius Evangelizans," and
many other little bookes) presented me with his book against Mr.
Hobbs's " Leviathan."
19. I planted yb Orchard at Sayes Court, new moone, wind West.
22. Was perfected the sealing, livery and seizin of my purchase of
Sayes Court. My brother Geo. Glanvill, Mr. Scudamor, Mr. Offley,
Co. Wm Glanvill (son to Serj1 Glanvill, sometime Speaker of the House
of Commons), Co. Stephens, and severall of my friends dining with me.
I had bargain'd for ^.3200, but I paid ^.3500.
25 Mar. Came to see me that rare graver in taille douce Monsr
Richett ; he was sent by Card1 Mazarine to make a collection of pictures.
11 April. 1 went to take the aire in Hide Park, where every coach
was made to pay a shilling, and horse 6d. by the sordid fellow who had
purchas'd it of the State as they were cal'd.
17 May. My servant Hoare, who wrote those exquisite severall
hands, fell of a fit of an apoplexie, caus'd, as. I suppose, by tampering
with g (mercury) about an experiment in gold.
29. I went to London to take my last leave of my honest friend
Mr. Barton now dying : it was a greate losse to me and to my affaires.
On the sixth of June I attended his funeral.

165S-] 271
8 June. Came my brother George, Capt. Evelyn the greate tra
veller, Mr. Muschamp, my Co. Tho. Keightly, and a virtuoso fantas
tical Symons *, who had the talent of embossing so to ye life.
9 June. I went to visite my worthy neighbour Sir Hen. Newton [at
Charlton], and consider the prospect, which is doubtless for city, river,
ships, meadows, hill, woods, and all other amenities, one of the most
noble in the world; so as had ye house running water, it were a princely
seate. Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in-law came to visite me, and he
presented me with a seleniscope.
19. This day I paid all my debts to a farthing, 6 blessed day !
21. My Lady Gerrard and one Esquire Knight, a very rich Gent.
living in Northamptonshire, visited me.
23. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, came to see my Collections.
27- Monsr. Roupel sent me a small phial of his aurum potabile,
with a letter shewing the way of administering it, and ye stupendous
cures it had don at Paris ; but ere it came to me, by what accident I
know not, it was all run out.
17 Aug. I went to visite Mr, Hyldiard at his house at Horsley
(formerly ye great Sr Walter Raleigh's f), where met me Mr. Oughtred
the famous mathematician ; he shew'd me a box or golden case of divers
rich and aromatic balsams, which a chymist a scholar of his had sent
him out of Germany.
21. I heard that good old man Mr. Higham the parson of the parish
of Wotton where I was born, & who had baptized me, preach after his
very plaine way on Luke, comparing this troublesome world to the sea,
the ministers to the fishermen, and the saints to yc fish.
22. We all went to Guildford to rejoice at the famous Inn, the Red
Lion, and to see the Hospital, and the monument of Arch Bish. Abbot
the founder, who lies buried in the chapell of his endowment.
28 Sept. At Greenwich preach'd that holy martyr Dr. Hewer on
Psalm 90. v. 11. magnifying the grace of God to penitents, and threat-

-* Abraham Simons, a strange character, but most excellent modeller after life, and engraver
of medals.
f This is a mistake; Mr. Hyldiard was of East Horsley, Sir Walter of West.

272 [16*53-
ning the extinction of his Gospel light for the prodigious impiety of
the age.
11 Oct. My sonn John Stansfield was borne, being my second
child, ahd christned by the name of my mother's father, that name now
quite extinct, being of Cheshire. Christen'd by Mr. Owen in my Li
brary at Sayes Court, where he afterwards churched my wife, I always
making use of him on these occasions, because the Parish Minister durst
not have officiated according to the forme and usage of the Church of
England, to wch I always adhered.
25. Mr. Owen preach'd in my Library at Sayes Court on 18 Luke,
7- 8. an excellent discourse on ye unjust judge, shewing why Almighty
God would sometimes be compared by such similitudes. He afterwards
administered to us all ye Holy Sacrament.
28. Went to London to visit my Lady Gerrard, where I saw that
cursed woman call'd the Lady Norton, of whom it was reported that she
spit in our King's face as he went to the scaffold. Indeede her talke
and discourse was like an impudent woman.
21 Nov. I went to London to speak with Sir John Evelyn mv
kinsman about ye purchase of an estate of Mr. Lambard's at Westram,
wch afterwards Sir John himself bought for his son-in-law Leech.
4 Dec. Going this day to our Church I was surpriz'd to see a trades
man, a mechanic, step up ; I was resolv'd yet to stay and see what he
would make of it. His text was from 2 Sam. ch. 23. v. 20. " And Ben-
aiah went downe also and slew a lion in the midst of a pit in yc time of
snow ;" the purport was, that no danger was to be thought difficult
when God call'd for shedding of blood, inferring that now ye Saints
were call'd to destroy temporal governments ; with such feculent stuff;
so dangerous a crisis were things growne to.
25. Christmas Day. No Churches or publiq assembly. I was faine
to passe ye devotions of y* blessed day with my family at home.
1654. 20 Jan. Came to see me my old acquaintance and the most
incomparable player on the Irish harp, Mr. Clarke *, after his travells.
He was an excellent musitian, a discreete gentleman, borne in Devon-

* See under the year 1668, November.

1654.] 273
shire (as I remember). Such musiq before or since did I never heare,
that instrument being neglected for its extraordinary difficulty ; but in
my judgment far superior to the Lute itselfe, or whatever speakes with
strings. 25. Died my son J. Standsfield, of convulsion fits; buried at
Deptford on ye East corner of ye Church, near his mother's great
grandfather, &c.
8 Feb. Ash Wednesday. In contradiction to all costome and de
cency, the Usurper Cromwell feasted at the Lord Maior's, riding in
triumph thro' the Citty.
14. I saw a tame lion play familiarly with a lamb ; he was a huge
beast, and I thrust my hand into his mouth and found his tongue rough
like a cat's ; a sheepe also with 6 leggs, wch made use of 5 of them to
walke ; a goose that had 4 leggs, 2 crops, and as many vents.
29 March. That excellent man Mr. Owen preached in my Library
on Matt. 28. v. 6. a Resurrection Sermon, and after it we all received
the Holy Communion.
6 April. Came my Lord Herbert, Sr Kenelme Digbie, Mr. Denham,
and other friends, to see me.
15. I went to London to heare the famous Dr Jeremy Taylor (since
Bishop of Downe and Connor) at St. Greg: on 6 Matt. 48. concerning
evangelical perfection.
5 May. I bound my laquay Tho. Headly apprentice to a carpenter,
giving with him five pounds & new cloathing ; he thrived very well,
and became rich.
8. I went to Hackney to see my Lady Brook's garden, which was
one of the neatest and most celebrated in England, the house well fur
nish'd, but a despicable building. Returning, visited one Mr. Tombs's
garden ; it has large and noble walks, some modern statues, a vineyard,
planted in strawberry borders, staked at 10 foote distances ; the bau-
quetting-house of cedar, where the couch and seates were carv'd a V an
tique ; some good pictures in the house, especialy one of Vandyke's,
being a Man in his shirt ; also some of Stenwyck. I also call'd at Mr.
Ducie's, who has indeede a rare collection of the best masters, and one
VOL. I. 2 N

e

274 Cl654
of ye largest stories of H. Holbein. I also saw Sir Tho. Fowler's aviarie
wch is a poore businesse.
10. My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden*, now y
onely place of refreshment about the towne for persons of yfc best qua
lity to be exceedingly cheated at ; Cromwell and his partisans having
shut up and seiz'd on Spring Garden, wch till now had ben ye usual
rendezvous for the ladys and gallants at this season.
11. I now observed how the women began to paint themselves, for
merly a most ignominious thing and us'd only by prostitutes.
14. There being no such thing as Church Anniversaries in yfc Paro
chial Assemblies, I was forced to provide at home for Whitsonday.
15. Came Sir Rob*. Stapleton, ye translator of Juvenal, to visite me.
8 June. My wife and I set out in a coach and 4 horses, in our way
to visite relations of hers in Wiltshire and other parts, where we
resolved to spend some moneths. We din'd at Windsor, and saw the
Castle and the Chapell of St. George, where they have laied our blessed
Martyr King Charles in the vault just before ye altar. The Church
and workmanship in stone is admirable. The Castle itselfe large in cir
cumference, but ye roomes melancholy and of antient magnificence. The
keepe, or mount, hath besides its incomparable prospect a very pro
found well ; and the terrace towards Eaton, with the park, meandring
Thames, and sweete meadows, yield one of ye most delightful pro
spects. That night we lay at Reading. Saw my Lord Craven's house
at Causam [Caversham] now in ruines, his goodly woods felling by
the Rebells.
9. Din'd at Marlborough, which having ben lately fir'd was now
new built. At one end* of this towne we saw my Lord Seymour's
house -\, but nothing observable save the Mount, to which we ascended
by windings for neere halfe a mile. It seems to have ben cast up by

* Buckingham House (now the Queen's Palace) was built on the site of these gardens : see
Dr. King, III. 73, ed. 1776; Malcolm's Londinium Redivivum, IV. 263 ; but the latter afterwards,
p. 327, says that the piece of ground called the Mulberry Garden was granted by Charles II. in 1672
to Henry Earl of Arlington ; in that case it would be what is now called Arlington Street, unless it
extended up to the Queen's Palace.
t Now ye famous inn there.

1654.] 2/5
hand. We pass'd by Coll. Popham's, a noble seate, park and river.
Thence to Newberry, a considerable towne, and Donnington Castle fa
mous for its battle, siege, and castle: that this last had ben ye possession
of old Geofrie Chaucer. Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Hum
phry Forster's, built a la moderne. Also that exceedingly beautifull
seate of my Lord Pembroke, on yc ascent of an hill, flank'd with wood,
and reguarding the river ; and so at night to Cadenham, ye mansion of
Ed. Hungerford, Esq. uncle to my wife, where we made some stay.
The rest of the weeke we did nothing but feast and make good cheere
to welcome my wife.
27- We all went to see Bathe, where I bathed in the Crosse Bathe,
Amongst tbe rest of the idle diversions of the towne, one musitian was
famous for acting a changeling, which indeede he personated strangely.
The faciate of this Cathedrall is remarkable for its historical carving.
The King's Bath is esteem'd ye fairest in Europe. The towne is in
tirely built of stone, but the streetes narrow, uneven, and unpleasant.
Here we trifled and bathed, and intervisited with the company who fre
quent the place for health, &c. till ye 30th, and then went to Bristoll, a
Citty emulating London, not for its large extent but manner of build
ing, shops, bridge, traffiq, exchange, market-place, &c. The Gover
nor shew'd us the Castle, of no greate concernment. The Citty wholly
mercantile, as standing neere the famous Severne, commodiously for
Ireland and the Western world. Here I first saw the manner of re
fining suggar and casting it into loaves, where we had a collation of
eggs fried in the suggar furnace *, together with excellent Spanish
wine : but what was most stupendious to me was the rock of St. Vin
cent, a little distance from ye towne, the precipice whereoff is equal to
any thing of that nature I have seene in ye most confragose cataracts,
of the Alpes, the river gliding betweene them at an extraordinary
depth. Here we went searching for diamonds, and to the Hot Wells
at its foote. There is also on the side of this horrid Alp a very roman
tic seate : and so we return'd to Bathe in the evening, and 1 July
to Cadenham.
* A kind of entertainment like that we now have of eating beef-steaks drest on the stoker's
shovel and drinking porter at the famous brewhouses in London.

276 [1654.
4 July. On a letter from my wife's uncle, Mr. Pretyman, I waited
back on her to London, passing by Hungerford, a towne famous for
its troutes, and the next day ariv'd at Deptford, which was 60 miles,
in the extremity of heate.
6. I went early to London, and ye next day met my wife and com
pany at Oxford, ye eve of ye Act.
8. Was spent in hearing several exercises in the scholes, and after
dinner ye Proctor opened ye Act at St. Marie's (according to custome)
and ye Prevaricators their drolery. Then the Doctors disputed. We
supp'd at Wadham College.
9. Dr. French preach'd at St. Marie's on 12 Matt. 42. advising the
Students the search after true wisdome, not to be had in the bookes of
Philosophers, but in the Scriptures alone. In ye afternoone the famous
Independent, Dr. Owen, perstringing Episcopacy. He was now Crom
well's Vice-Chancelor. We din'd wth Dr. Ward, Mathematical Pro
fessor (since Bp. of Sarum), and at night supp'd in Balliol Coll. Hall,
where I had once ben Student and Fellow Commoner, and where they
made me extraordinarily welcome.
10. On Monday I went againe to ye Scholes to heare the severall
Faculties, and in ye afternoone tarried out the whole Act in St. Marie's,
the long speeches of the Proctors, the Vice-Chancellor, the severall
Professors, creation of Doctors by ye cap, ring, kisse, &c. those antient
ceremonies and institution being as yet not wholy abolish'd. Dr.
Kendal, now Inceptor amongst others, performing his Act incom
parably well, concluded it with an excellent oration, abating his Pres
byterian animosities, which he witheld not even against that learned
and pious divine Dr. Hammond. The Act was clos'd with ye speech
of ye Vice-Chancellor, there being but 4 in Theologie, 3 in Medicine,
which was thought a considerable matter, the times consider'd. I din'd
at one Monsr. Fiat's, a Student at Exeter College, and supp'd at a
magnificent entertainment in Wadham Hall, invited by my deare and
excellent friend Dr. Wilkins, then Warden (after Bishop of Chester.)
11. Was ye Latin sermon, wch I could not be at, tho' invited, being
taken up at All Souls, where we had music, voices, and theorbos, per
form'd by some ingenious scholars. After dinner I visited that miracle

1654.] 277
of a youth Mr. Christopher Wren, nephew to ye Bishop of Ely. Then
Mr. Barlow (since Bishop of Lincoln) Bibliothecarius of ye Bodleian
Library, my most learned friend. He shew'd us ye rarities of that
most famous place, manuscripts, medails, and other curiosities.
Amongst the MSS. an old English Bible, wherein ye Eunuch men
tioned to be baptized by Philip is called the Gelding : " and Philip and
the Gelding went down into the water," &c. The original Acts of the
Council of Basil 900 yeares since, with the bulla or leaden affix, wch
has a silken cord passing thro' every parchment ; a MS. of Venerable
Bede of 800 yeares antiquity ; ye old Ritual secundum usum Sarum,
exceeding voluminous ; then amongst ye nicer curiosities, the Proverbs
of Solomon written in French by a lady *, every chapter of a severall
character or hand the most exquisite imaginable ; an hieroglyphical
table or carta folded up like a map, I suppose it painted on asses hide,
extremely rare ; but what is most illustrious, there were no less than
1000 MSS. in 19 languages, especialy Oriental, furnishing that new
part of ye Library built by Abp. Lawd from a designe of Sir Kenelme
Digby and ye Earle of Pembrook. In ye closet of the Tower they shew
some Indian weapons, urnes, lamps, &c. but ye rarest is the whole
Alcoran written on one large sheet of calico, wch is made up in a priest's
vesture or cope, after the Turkish and Arabic character, so exquisitely
written as no printed letter comes neere it; also a roll of magical
charms, divers talismans, and some medails.
Then I led my wife into ye Convocation House, finely wainscoted ;
ye Divinity Schole and Gotic carv'd roofe ; the Physick or Anatomie
Schole, adorn'd with some rarities of natural things, but nothing ex
traordinary save ye skin of a jaccall, a rarely colour'd jacatoo or prodi
gious large parrot, 2 humming birds not much bigger than our humble
bee, which indeede I had not seene before, that I remember.
12. We went to St. John's, saw yfc Library and the 2 skeletons
which are finely cleans'd and put together ; observable is here also ye
store of mathematical instruments, cheifely given by ye late Abp. Lawd,
who built here an handsome quadrangle.

* Mrs. Esther IngKslu married to Bartholomew Kello, Rector of Willinghall Spain in Essex.
See an account of her curious penmanship in Massey's Origin and Progress of Letters.

278 Ll654.
Thence we went to New College, where the Chapel was in its an
cient garb, notwithstanding the scrupulositie of the times. Thence to
Christ's Church, in whose library was shew'd us an Office of Hen. 8,
the writing, miniatures, and gilding whereof is equal if not surpassing
any curiosity I had seene of that kind ; it was given by their founder,
Cardinal Wolsey. The glasse windows of ye Cathedrall (famous in my
time) I found much abus'd. The ample Hall and columne that spreads
its capital to sustaine ye roofe as one goes up ye stayres is very remark
able. Next we walked to Magdalen College, where we saw ye Library and
Chapell, wcl1 was likewise in pontifical order, the altar onely I think
turn'd table-wise, and there was still the double organ, which abomi
nations (as now esteem'd) were almost universaly demolish'd ; Mr.
Gibbon, that famous musitian, giving us a taste of his skill and talents
on that instrument.
Hence we went to yfe Physick Garden, where the sensitive plant was
shew'd us for a greate wonder. There grew canes, olive-trees, rhu
barb, but no extraordinary curiosities, besides very good fruit, which
when the ladys had tasted, we returned in our coach to our lodgings.
13. We all din'd at that most obliging and universally-curious Dr.
Wilkins's, at Wadham College. He was the first who shew'd me the
transparent apiaries, which he had built like castles and palaces, and
so order'd them one upon another as to take the hony without destroy
ing the bees.. These were adorn'd with a variety of dials, little statues,
varies, $cc. and he was so aboundantly civil, as finding me pleas'd with
them, to present me with one of ye hives which he had empty, and
wch I afterwards had in my garden at Sayes Court, where it continu'd
many years, and which his Majestie came on purpose to see and con
template with much satisfaction. He had also contriv'd an hollow
statue which gave a voice and utter'd words, by a long conceal'd pipe
that went to its mouth *, whilst one speaks through it at a good
distance. He had above in his lodgings and gallery variety of shadows,

* This reminds us of the speaking figures so long exhibited in Spring Gardens, and in Leicester
Fields, some years ago.

1654.] 279
dyals, perspectives, and many other artificial, mathematical, and magi
cal curiosities, a way-wiser, a thermometer, a monstrous magnet, conic
and other sections, a ballance on a demi-circle, most of them of his
owne and that prodigious young scholar Mr. Chr. Wren, who presented
me with a piece of white marble, which he had stain'd with a lively red,
very deepe, as beautiful as if it had ben natural.
Thus satisfied with yB civilities of Oxford, we left it, dining at Fa-
ringdon, a towne wch had ben newly fir'd during yc warrs ; and passing
neere ye seate of Sir Walter Pie *, we came to Cadenham.
16. We went to another uncle and relative of my wife's, Sir John
Glanvill, a famous lawyer, formerly Speaker of ye House of Commons ;
his seate is at Broad-Hinton, where he now liv'd, but in ye Gate
house, his very faire dwelling-house having ben burnt by his owne
hands to prevent ye rebells making a garrison of it. Here my cousin
Will. Glanvill, his eldest sonn, shew'd me such a lock for a doore, that
for its filing and rare contrivances was a master-piece, yet made by a
country black-smith. But we have seene watches made by another with
as much curiositie as the best of that profession can brag off; and not
many yeares after, there was nothing more frequent than all sorts of
Iron-work more exquisitely wrought and polish'd than in any part of
Europ, so as a dore-lock of a tolerable price was esteem'd a curiositie
even among forraine princes.
Went back to Cadenham, and on ye 19th to Sir Ed. Baynton's at
Spie Park, a place capable of being made a noble seate ; but the hu
mourous old Knight has built a long single house of 2 low stories on
yc precipice of an incomparable prospect, and landing on a bowling
greene in ye park. The house is like a long barne, and has not a win
dow on ye prospect side. After dinner they went to bowles, and in the
meanetime our coach -men were made so exceedingly drunk, that in re
turning home we escap'd greate dangers. This it seems was by order
of the Knight, that all gentlemen's servants be so treated ; but the
custome is barbarous, and much unbecoming a Knight, still lesse a
Christian.

* Pye — ancestor of the late Poet Laureat.

280 [1654.
20. We proceeded to Salisbury ; the Cathedral I take to be the com-
pleatest piece of Gotic worke in Europe, taken in all its uniformitie.
The pillars, reputed to be cast, are of stone manifestly cut out of y"
quarry ; most observable are those in ye Chapter-house. There are some
remarkable monuments, particularly the antient Bishops founders of the
Church, Knights Templars, the Marques of Hartford's, the cloysters of
the palace and garden, and the greate mural dial.
In the afternoone we went to Wilton, a fine house of ye Earl of Pem
broke, in which ye most observable are ye dining-roome in yc modern
built part towards the garden, richly gilded and painted with story by
De Creete ; also some other apartments, as that of hunting landskips
by Pierce ; some magnificent chimny-pieces after the best French
manner ; a paire of artificial winding-stayres of stone, and divers rare
pictures. The garden, heretofore esteem'd the noblest in England, is
a large handsom plaine, with a grotto and water- works, which might be
made much more pleasant were the river that passes through cleans'd
and rais'd, for all is effected by a meere force. It has a flower garden
not inelegant. But after all, that which renders the seate delightful
is its being so neere ye downes and noble plaines about the countrv
contiguous to it. The stables are well order'd and yeild a graceful 1
front, by reason of the walkes of lime-trees, with the court and foun
taine of the stables adorn'd with the Caesar's heads.
We returned this evening by the plaine, and 14 mile race, where out
of my lords hare-warren we were entertained with a long course of an
hare for neere 2 miles in sight. Neere this is a pergola or stand, built
to view the sports : and so we came to Salisbury, and viewed the
most considerable parts of the Citty. The merket place with most of
the streetes are water'd by a quick current and pure streame running
thro' ye middle of them, but are negligently kept, when with small
charge they might be purg'd and render'd infinitely agreeable, and
made one of ye sweetest townes, but now the common buildings are
despicable and ye streetes dirty.
22 July. We departed and din'd at a ferme of my uncle Hunger-
ford's, call'd Darneford Magna, situate in a vally under ye plaine, most

1654.] 281
sweetly water'd, abounding in trouts catch'd by speare in the night
when they come attracted by a light set in ye sterne of a boate.
After dinner, continuing our returne, we pass'd over yb goodly
plaine, or rather sea of carpet, which I think for evenness extent
verdure, and innumerable flocks, to be one of ye most delightful pro
spects in nature, and reminded me of the pleasant lives of shepherds we
reade of in Romances.
Now we were arived at Stone-henge, indeede a stupendious monu
ment, appearing at a distance like a castle ; how so many and huge
pillars of stone should have ben brought together, some erect, others
transverse on yc tops of them, in a circular area as rudely representing
a cloyster or heathen and more natural temple, is wonderfull. The
stone is so exceeding hard, that all my strength with a hammer could
not breake a fragment ; wch hardness I impute to their so long ex
posure. To number them exactly is very difficult, they lie in such
variety of postures and confusion, tho' they seem'd not to exceede 100 ;
we counted onely 95. As to their being brought thither, there being
no navigable river neere, is by some admir'd ; but for yc stone there
seemes to be ye same kind about 20 miles distant, some of which
appeare above ground. About the same hills are divers mounts rais'd,
conceiv'd to be ancient intrenchments or places of burial after bloudy
fights. We now went by the Devizes, a reasonable large towne, and
came late to Cadenham.
27- I went to the hunting of a sorel deere, and had excellent chase
for 4 or 5 houres, but the venison little worth.
29 July. I went to Langford to see my cousin Stephens. I also
saw Dryfield, ye house heretofore of Sir John Pretyman, grandfather to
my wife, and sold by her uncle ; both ye seate and house very honour
able and well built, much after the modern fashion.
31. Taking leave of Cadenham, where we had ben long and nobly
entertain'd, we went a compass into Leicestershire, where dwelt another
relation of my wife's ; for I indeede made these excursions to shew
her ye most considerable parts of her native country, who from her
childhood had liv'd altogether in France, as well as for my owne
curiosity and information.
vol. 1. 2o

282 [1654.
About two miles before coming to Gloucester, we have a prospect
from woody hills into a most goodly vale and country. Gloucester is a
handsome Citty, considerable for the Church & monuments. The Minster
is indeede a noble fabric. The whispering gallery is rare, being thro'
a passage of 25 yards, in a many-angled cloister, and was, I suppose,
either to shew the skill of the architect, or some invention of a cunning
priest, who standing unseene in a recesse in the middle of the Chappell,
might heare whatever was spoken at either end. This is above the
quire, in which lies buried K. Stephen under a monument of Irish oake,
not ill carved considering the age. The new Librarie is a noble tho' a
private designe. I was likewise pleased with ye Severne gliding so
sweetely by it. The Duke's house, the Castle workes, are now almost
quite dismantl'd; nor yet without sad thoughts did I see the Towne,
considering how fatal the siege had ben a few yeares before to our
good King.
1 Aug*. We sat out towards Worcester by a way thick planted with
cider-fruit. We deviated to the Holy Wells, trickling out of a vally
thro' a steepe declivity towards the foote of the greate Mauvern Hills ;
they are said to heale many infirmities, as king's evil, leaprosie, sore
eyes, &c. Ascending a great height above them to the Trench
dividing England from South Wales, we had the prospect of all Here
fordshire, Radnor, Brecknock, Monmouth, Worcester, Glocester, Shrop
shire, Warwick, Derby shires, and many more. We could discern
Tewxbery, Kings-rode towards Bristol, &c. so as I esteeme it one of the
goodliest vista's in England,
2. This evening we ariv'd at Worcester, the Judges of Assise and
Sheriff just entering as we did. Viewing the Towne the next day, we
found ye Cathedral much ruin'd by the late warrs, otherwise a noble
structure. The Towne is neately pav'd and very cleane, the goodly
river Severne running by it, and standing in a most fertile country.
3. We pass'd next thro' Warwick, and saw the Castle, the dwelling-
house of the Lord Brook, and the furniture noble. It is built on an
eminent rock weh gives prospect into a most goodly greene, a woody
and plentifully watred country ; the river running so delightfully under
it, that it may passe for one of the most surprising seates one should

1654.] 283
meete with. The gardens are pretily disposed, but might be much
improv'd. Here they show us Sr Guy's greate. two-handed sword,
staff, horse-armes, pott, and other reliques of yl famous knight errant.
Warwick is a faire old Towne, and hath one Church full of antient
monuments. Having viewed these, I went to visite my worthy friend
Sir H. Puckering at the Abby, and tho' a melancholy old seate, yet in
a rich soile. Hence to Sir Guy's Grott, where they say he did his
penances and dyed. 'Tis a squalid den made in the rock, crown'd yet
with venerable oakes and looking on a goodly streame, so as, were it
improv'd as it might be, 'twere capable of being made a most romantiq
and pleasant place. Neere this we were shew'd his chapell and
gigantic statue hewn out of the solid rock, out of which there are like
wise divers other caves cut, & some very capacious. The next place to
Coventry. The Crosse is remarkable for Gotic worke and rich gilding,
comparable to any I had ever seene except that of Cheapeside in
London, now demolish'd. This Citty has many handsome churches, a
beautifull wall, a faire free-schole and librarie to it ; the streetes full of
greate shops, cleane and well pav'd. At going forth the Gate they
shew us the bone or rib of a wild boare said to have ben kill'd by Sir
Guy, but which I take to be the chine of a whale.
4. Hence riding thro' a considerable part of Leicestershire, an open,
rich, but unpleasant country, we came late in the evening to Horning-
hold, a seate of my wife's unkle [not nam'd].
7- Went to Uppingham, the Shire-towne of Rutland, pretty and
well built of stone, which is a rarity in that part of England, where
most of the rural parishes are but of mud, and the people living as
wretchedly as in the most impoverish'd parts of France, which they
much resemble, being idle and sluttish. The country (especially Lei
cestershire) much in common ; the gentry free drinkers.
9. To the old and ragged Citty of Leicester, large and pleasantly
seated, but despicably built, ye chimney flues like'so many smiths forges;
however, famous for the tombe of the Tyrant Richard the Third, which
is now converted to a cistern, at which (I think) cattel drink. Also
here in one of the Churches lies buried the magnificent Cardinal Wolsey.
John of Gaunt has here also built a large but poore Hospital, neere

284 [lfi54.
which a wretch has made him an house out of the ruines of a stately
church. Saw ye ruines of an old Roman Temple, thought to be of
Janus. Entertain'd at a very fine collation of fruits, such as I did not
expect to meet with so far North, especially very good melons. We
return'd to my unkle's.
14. I tooke a journey into the Northern parts, riding thro' Oakham,
a pretty towne in Rutlandshire, famous for the tenure, of the Barons
(Ferrers), who hold it by taking off a shoe from every noble-man's
horse that passes with his Lord thro' the streete, unless redeem'd with
a certain piece of money. In token of this are severall gilded shoes
nail'd up on the Castle-gate *, which seemes to have ben large and
faire. Hence we went by Brook, a very sweete seate and parke of the
old Lady Camdens. Next by Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke
of Buckingham f , and worthily reckon'd among the noblest seates in
England, situate on the brow of an hill, built a la moderne neere a park
wall'd in, and a fine wood at the descent.
Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seate belonging to Mr.
Heath, sonn to the late Ld Cheif Justice of that name. Here, after
dinner, parting with the company that conducted us thus far, I pass'd
that evening by Belvoir Castle, built on a round mount at the point of
a long ridge of hills, which affords a stately prospect, and is famous
for its strenuous resistance in the late civil warr J.
Went by Newark on Trent, a brave towne and garison. Next by
Wharton House, belonging to ye Lord Chaworth, an handsom seate :
then by Home, a noble place belonging to the Marques of Dorchester,
and pass'd the famous river Trent, which divides the South from the
North of England, and sb lay that night at Nottingham. This whole
Towne and County seemes to be but one entire rock as it were, an
exceeding pleasant shire, full of gentry. Here I observ'd divers to

* A shoe was paid for by the Duke of York in 1788.
t Called Burleigh on the Hill, for distinction from the Earl of Exeter's near Stamford. The
Duke of Buckingham sold it to the Family of Finch, now Earl of Winchelsea and Nottingham, to
whom it belongs.
\ New apartments built by the present Duke, but the old part was burnt down in Oct. 1816,
suspected to be by incendiaries.

1654.] 285
live in the rocks and caves, much after yc manner as about Tours in
France *. The Church is well built on an eminence ; there is a faire
house of the Lord Clare's, another of Pierrepoints ; an ample merket-
place ; large streetes full of crosses ; the reliques of an ancient castle
hollow'd, beneath wch are many caverns, especialy that of the Scots
King, and his work whilst there. This place is remarkable for being
the place where his Ma*y first erected his standard at the beginning of
our late unhappy differences. The prospects from this citty towards
the river and meadows are most delightfull.
15. We pass'd next thro' Sherewood Forest, accounted the most
extensive in England. Then Paplewick, an incomparable vista with
the pretty castle neere it. Thence we saw Newstead Abby belonging
to ye Lord Biron, situated much like Fontaine-bleau in France f, ca
pable of being made a noble seate, accommodated as it is with brave
woods and streames ; it has yet remaining the front of a glorious Abby
Church. Next by Mansfield Towne ; then Wellbeck, the house of the
Marques of Newcastle, seated in a botome in a park, and environ'd
with woods, a noble yet melancholy seate. The palace is a handsom
and stately building. Next to Worksop Abby, almost demolish'd ; the
Church has a double flat towre intire, and a pretty gate. The Mannor
belongs to the Earle of Arundel, and has to it a faire house at the foote
of an hill in a park that afords a delicate prospect. Tickel, a Towne
and Castle, has a very noble prospect. All these in Nottinghamshire.
16. We ariv'd at Doncaster, where we lay this night; it is a large
faire towne, famous for greate wax-lights and good stockings.
17- Pass'd thro' Pontefract ; the Castle, famous for many sieges
both of late and ancient times, and the death of y* unhappy King mur
dered in it (Richard II.) was now demolishing by the Rebells ; it
stands on a mount and makes a goodly shew at a distance. The
Queene has an house here, and there are many faire seats neere it,
especialy Mr. Pierrepoint's, built at the foote of an hill out of the
Castle ruines. We all alighted in ye highway to drink at a cristal
spring wch they call Robin Hood's Well ; neere it is a stone chaire,
* Seep. 61. t Seep. 47-

286 Cl654-
and an iron ladle to drink out of, chain'd to the seate. We rode to
Tadcaster, at the side of which we have prospect of the Archbishop's
Palace (wch is a noble seate), and in sight of divers other gentlemen's
faire houses. This tract is a goodly, fertile, well-water'd and wooded
country, abounding with pasture and plenty of provisions.
17 Aug*. To York, the second Citty of Engknd, fairely wall'd, of
a, circular forme, water'd by the brave river Ouse, bearing vessels of
considerable burthen on it ; over it is a stone bridge emulating y* of
London, and built on, the middle arch is larger than any I have seene
in England, with a wharfe of hewn stone, which makes the river ap
peare very neate. But most remarkable and worthy seeing is St. Pe
ter's Cathedrall, which of all the greate churches in England had ben
best preserv'd from ye furie of yc sacrilegious *, by composition with
the Rebells when they tooke the Citty, during the many incursions of
Scotch and others. It is a most intire magnificent piece of Gotic archi
tecture. The skreene before ye quire is of stone carv'd wth flowers,
running work and statues of ye old Kings. Many of the monuments
are very ancient. Here, as a greate rarity in these dayes and at this
time, they shew'd me a Bible and Common Prayer Book cover'd with
crimson velvet, and richly emboss'd with silver gilt ; also a service for
yc altar of guilt wrought plate, flagons, basin, euer, chalices, patins, &c.
with a gorgeous covering for ye altar and pulpit, carefully preserv'd in
ye Vestrie, in the hollow wall whereof rises a plentifull spring of ex
cellent water. I got up to y* Towre, whence we had a prospect
towards Duresme, and could see Rippon, part of Lancashire, the
famous and fatal Marston Moore, ye Spaws of Knaresbrough, and
all the environs of that admirable country. Sir  Ingoldsby has
here a large house, gardens, and tennis court ; also the King's house
and Church neere the Castle, which was modernly fortified with a pa-
lizade and bastions. The streetes are narrow and ill pav'd, the shops
like London.
18 Aug. We went to Beverly, a large towne with 2 stately
churches, St. John's and St. Marie's, not much inferior to the best of
* By Sir Thomas Fairfax.

1654.] 287
our Cathedrals. Here a very old woman shew'd us the monuments,
and being above 100 yeares old, spake ye language of Queen Marie's
daies, in whose time she was born ; she was widow of a Sexton who
had belong'd to ye church an hundred yeares.
Hence we pass'd thro' a fenny but rich country to Hull, situate like
Calais, modernly and strongly fortified with three block-houses of brick
and earth. It has a good mercat-place and harbour for ships. Famous
also (or rather infamous) is this towne for Hotham's refusing enterance
to his Ma4'. The Water-house is worth seeing. And here ends the
South of Yorkshire.
19. We passe the Humber, an arme of the sea of about 2 leagues
breadth. The weather was bad, but we cross'd it in a good barg to
Barton, " the first towne in that part of Lincolnshire. All marsh
ground till we came to Brigg, famous for the plantations of licorice,
and then had brave pleasant riding to Lincoln, much resembling Salis
bury Plaine. Lincoln is an old confus'd towne, very long, uneven,
steepe, and ragged ; formerly full of good houses, especialy churches
and abbies. The Minster almost comparable to y* of York itselfe,
abounding with marble pillars and having a faire front. Herein was
interr'd Q. Elianor, the loyal and loving wife who suck'd the poison
out of her husband's wound ; the Abbot founder, wth rare carving in
ye stone ; the greate Bell, or Tom, as they call it ; I went up the
steeple, from whence is a goodly prospect all over the country. The
souldiers had lately knocked off most of the brasses from the grave
stones, so as few inscriptions were left ; they told us that these men
went in with axes and hammers, and shut themselves in, till they had
rent and tome off some barge-loads of mettal, not sparing even the mo
numents of the dead, so hellish an avarice possessed them ; besides wch
they exceedingly ruin'd the Citty.
Here I saw a tall woman six foote two inches high, comely, middle
gg'd and well proportion'd, who kept a very neate and cleane ale
house, and got most by people's coming to see her on account of her
height. 20. From hence we had a most pleasant ride over a large heath
open like Salisbury Plaine, to Grantham, a pretty towne, so well situ-

288 [1654.
ated on the side of a bottome, which is large and at distance inviron'd
with ascending grounds, that for pleasure I consider it comparable to
most inland places of England : famous is the Steeple for the exceeding
height of the shaft, which is of stone.
About 18 miles South we passe by a noble seate, and see Boston
at a distance. Here we came to a parish of which the parson has
Tithe Ale.
Thence thro' Rutland we brought night to Horninghold, from
whence I sat out on this excursion.
22. I went a setting and hawking, where we had tolerable sport.
25. I went to see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord Hatton's
in Northamptonshire, built a la moderne ; the garden and stables
agreeable, but tbe avenue ungraceful and the seate naked : returned
that evening.
27- Mr. Allington preach'd an excellent discourse from Romans 6.
19. This was he who publish'd those bold sermons of the members
warring against the mind, or the Jewes crucifying Christ, applied to
the wicked regicides, for which he was ruin'd. We had no sermon
in the afternoone.
30. Taking leave of my friends who had now feasted me more than
a moneth, I, with my wife, &c. set our faces towards home, and got
this evening to Peterborow, passing by a stately palace (Thorpe) of
St. John's (one deepe in ye bloud of our good King), built out of the
ruines of the Bishops Palace and Cloyster. The Church is exceeding
faire, full of monuments of greate antiquity. Here lies Queene Catha
rine, the unhappy wife of Hen. VIII. and the no lesse unfortunate
Mary Q. of Scots. On the steeple we view'd the Fens of Lincolnshire,
now much inclos'd and drained with infinite expence, and by many
sluices, cutts, mounds, and ingenious mills, and the like inventions, at
which the Citty and country about it, consisting of a poore and very
lazy sort of people, were much displeas'd.
Peterborow is an handsome towne, and hath another well-built
Church. 31. Thro' part of Huntingdon shire we passe that towne, faire and
ancient, a river running by it. The country about it so abounds in

1654-j 289
wheate, that when any King of England passes thro' it they have a
costom to meet him with an hundred plows.
This evening to Cambridge; and went first to see St. John's Col-
ledge, well built of brick, and Librarie, which I think is ye fairest of
that University. One Mr. Benlowes* has given it all ye ornaments of
Pietra Commessa-f-, whereof a table and one piece of perspective is
very fine ; other trifles there also be of no great value, besides a vast
old song book or service, and some faire manuscripts. There hangs in
ye library the picture of John Williams Abp. of York sometime Lord
Keeper, my kinsman and their greate benefactor.
Trinity College is said by some to be the fairest quadrangle of any
University in Europ, but in truth is far inferior to that of Christ Church
in Oxford ; the hall is ample and of stone, yb fountaine in ye quadrangle
is graceful!, the Chapell and Library faire. There they shew'd us the
prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, but the passage and em
blem which they would apply to our late King, is manifestly relating to
the Swedish ,- in truth it seemes to be a meere fantastic rhapsody, how
ever the title may bespeake strange revelations. There is" an Office in
manuscript with fine miniatures, and some other antiquities given by ye
Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII. and the before mention'd
Abp. Williams when Bishop of Lincoln. The Library is pretty well
stor'd. The Greeke Professor had me into another large quadrangle
cloister'd and well built, and gave us a handsome collation in his own
chamber. Thence to Caius, and afterwards to King's College, where I found the
Chapel altogether answer'd expectation, especialy the roofe all of stone,
wch for the flatness of its laying and carving, may I conceive vie with
any in Christendome. The contignation of the roof (wch I went upon)
weight and artificial joyneing of the stones is admirable. The lights
are also very faire. In one ile lies the famous Dr. Collins so celebrated
for his fluency in the Latin tongue. From this roofe we could descry

* Edward Benlowes, Esq. a writer of Divine Poesy, of a good family in Essex, and of a good
estate, but which he wasted by improvident liberality, and buying curiosities, as Wood says.
Wood's Fasti, 876.
f Marble inlaid of various colours representing flowers, birds, &c.

VOL. I. 2 P

290 [1654.
Ely, and ye incampment of Sturbridge faire now beginning to set up
their tents and boothes ; also Royston, Newmarket, &c. houses belong
ing to the King. The Library is too narrow.
Clare Hall is of a new and noble designe, but not finish'd.
Peter House formerly under ye government of my worthy friend Dr.
Jo. Cosin Deane of Peterborow*; a pretty neate College having a deli
cate Chapell. Next to Sidney, a fine College.
Catharine "Hall, tho' a meane structure, is yet famous for^the learned
Bp. Andrews, once Master. Emanuel CoUedge, that zealous house,
where to the Hall they have a parler for ye Fellows. The Chapell is
reform'd, ab origine, built N. and South, meanely built, as is yB
Librarie. Jesus College, one of the best built but in a melancholy situation.
Next to Christ College, a very noble erection, especialy the modern part,
built without the quadrangle towards ye gardens, of exact architecture.
The Schooles are very despicable, and Public Librarie but meane,
tho' somewhat improv'd by the wainscotting and books lately added by
the Bp. Bancroft's Library and MSS. They shew'd us little of anti
quity, onely K. James's Works, being his owne gift and kept very
reverently. The Mercat-place is very ample, and remarkable for old Hobson the
pleasant Carrier's beneficence of a fountaine -j\ But the, whole towne is
situate in a low dirty unpleasant place, ye streetes ill paved, the aire
thick and infected by the Fennes, nor are its churches (of wcb St.
Marie's is the best) any thing considerable in compare to Oxford J.
From Cambridge we went to Audley End, and spent some time in
seeing that goodly palace' built by Howard Earl of Suffolk, once Lord
Treasurer. It is a mixt fabric 'twixt antiq and modern, but observable
for its being compleately finish'd, and without comparison is one of the
stateliest palaces of the kingdom. It consists of two courts, ye first very
large, wing'd with cloisters. The front hath a double entrance; the
hall is faire, but somewhat too small for so august a pile. The kitchen
* Ejected from all his preferments in 1640 or 1 64 1 . Afterwards Bishop of Durham.
t It is rather a conduit.
X The reader must remember that an Oxford man is speaking.

1654.] 291
is very large, as are the cellars arch'd wth stone, very neate and well
dispos'd ; these offices are joyn'd by a wing out of ye way very hand
somely. The gallery is the most cheerfull, and I thinke one of the
best in England ; a faire dining-roome, and the rest of ye lodgings
answerable, with a pretty chapell. The gardens are not in order, tho'
well inclos'd. It has also a bowling-ally, a nobly well wall'd, wooded,
and water'd park, full of fine collines and ponds : the river glides before ye
palace, to which is an avenue of lime trees, but all this is much diminish'd
by its being plac'd in an obscure bottome ; for the rest, it is a perfectly
uniform structure, and shewes without like a diadem, by ye decorations
of the cupolas and other ornaments on ye pavilions ; instead of railes
and balusters, there is a bordure of capital letters, as was lately also on
Suffolk House neere Charing Crosse, built by the same Lord Tress1-*.
This house stands in the parish of Saffron Walden, famous for ye
aboundance of saffron there cultivated, and esteem'd the best of any
forraine country,
3 Oct. Having din'd here we pass'd thro' Bishop's Stortford, a
pretty water'd towne, and so by London late home to Sayes Court,
after a journey of 700 miles, but for the variety an agreeable refresh
ment after my turmoil and building, &c.
10. To my brother at Wotton, who had ben sick.
14. I went to visit my noble friend Mr. Hyldiard, where I met
that learned gentleman my Lord Aungier, and Dr. Stokes, one of his
Ma*" Chaplains.
15. To Betch worth Castle to Sr Ambrose Browne, and other gen
tlemen of my sweete and native country.
24. The good old parson Higham preach'd at Wotton Church : a
plaine preacher, but innocent and honest man.
23 Oct. I went to London to visit my co. Fanshawe, and this day I
saw one of the rarest collections of achates, onyxes, and intaglios, that I
had ever seene either at home or abroad, collected by a conceited old
hatt-maker in Black Friers, especialy one achat vase, heretofore the
greate Earle of Leicester's.
* Where Suffolk Street is now built.

292 [1654-
28. Came Lady Langham, a kinswoman of mine, to visit us ; also
one Capt". Cooke, esteem'd ye best singer after ye Italian manner of
any in England ; he entertain'd us with his voice and theorba.
31. My birth-day, being the 34th yeare of my age: blessing God
for his providence I went to London to visite my brother.
3 Dec. Advent Sunday. There being no office at the churoh, but
extemporie prayers after yK Presbyterian way, for now all formes were
prohibited, and most of the preachers were usurpers, I seldome went to
church upon solemn feasts, but either went to London, where some of
the orthodox sequestred Divines did privately use ye Common Prayer,
administer sacraments, &c. or else I procur'd one to officiate in my
house; wherefore, on the 10th, Dr. RicbA Owen, the sequester'd mi
nister of Eltham, preach'd to my family in my library,and ga ve us ye
holy communion.
25. Christmas Day. No public offices in churches, but penalties on
observers, so as I was constrain'd to celebrate it at home.
1655. Jan.T. Having with my Family performed the publiq offices
of the day, and begged a blessing on the yeare I was now entering, I went
to keepe the rest of Christmas at my brother's, R. Evelyn at Woodcot.
19. My wife was brought to' bed of another son, being my third,
but second living. Christen'd on ye 26th by ye name of John.
28. A stranger preached from 3 Colossians, 2, inciting our affections
to the obtaining heavenly things. I understood afterwards that this
man had ben both Chaplaine and Lieutennent to Admiral Pen, using
both swords, whether ordained or not I cannot say ; into such times
were we fallen !
Feb: 24. I was shew'd a table clock whose ballance was onely a
chrystall ball sliding on parallel wyers without being at all fixed, but
rolling from stage to stage till falling on a spring conceal'd from sight, it
was throwne up to the upmost channel againe, made with an impercep
tible declivity, in this continual vicissitude of motion prettily entertain
ing the eye every halfe minute, and the next halfe giving progress to
the hand that shew'd the houre, and giving notice by a small bell, so as
in 120 halfe minutes, or periods of the bullet's falling on the ejacula-
torie spring, the clock part struck. This very extraordinary piece

1655-] 293
(richly adorn'd) had been presented by some German Prince to our
late King, and was now in possession of the Usurper, valu'd at 200/.
2 Mar. Mr. Simson, ye King's jeweler, shew'd me a most rich
achat cup of an escalop shape and having a figure of Cleopatra at the
scroll, her body, haire, mantle, and vaile of the severall natural co
lours. It was supported by a halfe M. Antony, the colours rarely na
tural, and yc work truly antique, but I conceiv'd they were of severall
pieces ; had they ben all of one stone it were invaluable.
18. Went to London on purpose to heare that excellent preacher
Dr. Jeremy Taylor on 14 Matt. 17- shewing what were the conditions
of obtaining eternal life : also concerning abatements for unavoidable
infirmities, how cast on the accompts of ye Crosse. On the 31st I made
a visit to Dr. Jer. Taylor to conferr with him about some spiritual
matters, using him thenceforward as my ghostly father. I beseech God
Almighty to make me ever mindful of, and thankful for, his heavenly
assistances. 2 April. This was the first weeke that my V. Pret. [Uncle Pretyman]
being parted with his family from me, I began housekeeping, till now
sojourning with him in my owne house.
9. I went to see ye greate ship newly built by the Usurper Oliver,
carrying 96 brasse guns, and 1000 tons burthen. In ye prow was Oli
ver on horseback, trampling 6 Nations under foote, a Scott, Irishman,
Dutchman, Frenchman, Spaniard, and English, as was easily made
out bv their several habits. A Fame held a laurel over his insulting
head ; ve word, God with us.
15. I went to London with my family to celebrate ye feast of Easter.
Dr. Wild preach'd at St. Gregorie's; the Ruling Powers conniving
at ye use of the Liturgy &c. in this church alone. In ye afternoone
Mr. Pierson (since Bp. of Chester) preach'd at East Cheape, but was
disturb'd by an alarme of fire, which about this time was very frequent
in the Cittie.
29 May. I sold Preston to Col. Morley.
June 17- There was a collection for the Persecuted Churches and
Christians in Savoy, remnants of the ancient Albigenses.

294 [1655-
3 July< I was shew'd a pretty Terrella, describ'd with all ye circles,
and shewing all ye magnetic deviations, &c.
1 4. Came Mr. Pratt, my old acquaintance at Rome, also Sir Ed
ward Hales, Sr Jo. Tufton wh Mr. Seamour.
1 Aug. I went to Darking to see Mr. Cha. Howard's amphitheater,
garden, or solitarie recess*, being 15 acres inviron'd by a hill. He
shew'd us divers rare plants, caves, and an elaboratory.
10. I went to Alburie to visit Mr. Howard, who had begun to biiild
and alter ye gardens much. He shew'd me many rare pictures, par
ticularly the Moore on horseback ; Erasmus as big as the life, by Hol
bein : a Madona in miniature by Oliver ; but above all the Skull carv'd
in wood by Albert Durer, for which his father was offer'd 100Z. ; also
Albert's head by himselfe ; with divers rare achates, intalias, and other
curiosities. 21. I went to Rygate to visit Mrs. Cary at my Lady Peterboro's,
in an antient monastery well in repaire, but the parke much defac'd;
the house is nobly furnish'd. The chimney-piece in the greate chamber,
carv'd in wood, was of Hen. 8. and was taken from an house of his in
^Blechinglee. At Rygate was now ye Archbishop of Armagh, the
learned James Usher, whom I went to visite. He receiv'd me exceed
ing kindly. In discourse with him he told me how greate the losse of
time was to study much the Eastern languages; that excepting Hebrew
there was little fruite to be gather'd of exceeding labour ; that besides
some mathematical bookes, the Arabic itselfe had little considerable ;
that the best text was ye Hebrew Bible; that ye Septuagint was finish'd
in 70 daies, but full of errors, about which he was then writing ; that
St. Hierom's was to be valued next the Hebrew; also that the 70
translated the Pentateuch onely, the rest was finish'd by others ; that
the Italians at present understood but little Greeke, and Kircher was a
mountebank ; that Mr. Selden's best book was his " Titles of Honour ;"
that the Church would be, destroyed by sectaries, who would in all
likelihood bring in Poperie. In conclusion he recommended to me ye
— , — . —  , . 1 - - 1 1 ¦ j 1 1 .¦ . . ,  r  ,  ,  „  , — _
* Called Deepden, the property of Thomas Hope, Esq, (IS16.)

1655-] 2^5
study of Philologie above all human studies ; and so with his blessing I
tooke my leave of this excellent person, and returned to Wotton.
27- I went to Box-hill to see those rare natural bowers, cabinets,
and shady walkes in the box copses : Hence we walk'd to Mickleham,
and saw Sir F. Stidolph's seate environ'd with elme-trees and walnuts
innumerable, and of which last he told us they receiv'd a considerable
revenue. Here are such goodly walkes and hills shaded with yew and
box as render the place extreamely agreeable, it seeming from these
ever-greens to be summer all the winter.
28. Came that renown'd mathematician Mr. Oughtred * to see me,
I sending my coach to bring him to Wotton, being now very aged.
Amongst other discourse he told me he thought water to be the philo
sopher's first matter, and that he was well perswaded of the possibility
of their elixir; he behey'd the sunn to be a material fire, the moone a
continent, as appears by the late Selenographers ; he had strong appre
hensions of some extraordinary event to happen ye following yeare
from the calculation of coincidence with the diluvian period ; and added
that it might possibly be to convert ye Jewes bv our Saviour's visible
appearance, or to judge yc world; and therefore his word was, Parate
in occursum ; he said original sin was not met with in the Greeke Fa
thers, yet he believ'd ye thing ; this was from some discourse on Dr.
Taylor's late booke wch I had lent him.
16. Preach'd at St. Gregories one Darnel on 4 Psalm 4. concerning
ye benefit of selfe examination ; more learning in so short a time as an
hour I have seldom heard.
17 Sept. Receiv'd 2600/. of Mr. Hurt for the manor of Warley
Magna in Essex, purchased by me some time since. The taxes were
so intollerable that they eate up the rents &c. surcharged as that county
had been above all others during our unnatural war.
19. Came to see me SrEdw. Hales, Mr. Ashmole, Mr. Harlakenton,
and Mr. Thornhill : and the next day I visited Sir Hen. Newton at
Charleton, where I met the Earl of Winchelsea and Lady Beauchamp,
daughter to the Ld Capel.
* Rector of Albury.

296 [16*55-
On Sunday afternoone I frequently stay'd at home to catechise and
instruct my familie, those exercises universally ceasing in the parish
churches, so as people had no principles, and grew very ignorant of
even the common points of Christianity ; all devotion being now plac'd
in hearing sermons and discourses of speculative and notional things.
26. I went to see Col. Blount's subterranean warren, and drank of
the wine of, his vineyard, which was good for little.
31, Sir Nich. Crisp came to treate with me about his vast designe
of a Mole * to be made for ships in partof my grounds at Sayes Court.
3 Nov. I had accidentally discourse with a Persian and a Greeke
concerning the devastation of Poland by ye late incursion of the Swedes,
27- To London about S1' Nichs Crisps designs.
I went to see York House and gardens belonging to the former
greate Buckingham, but now much ruin'd thro' neglect -h
Thence to visit honest and learned Mr. Hartlib J, a public spirited
and ingenious person, who had propagated many usefull things and
arts. He told me of the Castles which they set for ornament on their
stoves in Germany (he himselfe being a Lithuanian as I remember),
which are furnish'd with small ordinance of silver on the battlements,
out of which they discharge excellent perfumes about the roomes
charging them with a little powder to set them on fire and disperse the
smoke; and in truth no more than neede, for their stoves are sufficiently
nasty. He told me of an inke that would give a dozen copies, moist
sheets of paper being press'd on it, and remaine perfect ; and a receipt
how to take off any print without the least injury to the originall. This
gentleman was master of innumerable curiosities and very communi
cative. I returned home that evening by water, and was afflicted for it
with a cold that had almost kill'd me.
27- This day came forth the Protectors Edict or Proclamation, pro
hibiting all ministers of the Church of England from preaching or
* See hereafter, under 1662, January.
f The Duke's names and titles are still preserved in the buildings erected on the site ; viz,
George Street, Villiers Street, Duke Street, Off Alley, Buckingham Street.
X Samuel Hartlib. Milton's Tractate of Education is addressed tn him. Mr. Todd in his Life of
that Poet prefixed to the last Edition of his Poetical Works, observes that " a Life of Hartlib is a
desideratum in English Biography :" there are ample materials for it in the publications of the time.

J 655.] 297
teaching any scholes, in which he imitated the Apostate Julian ; with
ye decimation of all yr royal parties revenues throughout England.
14 Dec. I visited Mr. Hobbs yfc famous philosopher of Malmesbury,
with whom I had ben long acquainted in France.
Now were the Jews admitted.
25. There was no more notice taken of Christmas day in churches.
I went to London where Dr. Wild preach'd the funeral sermon of
Preaching, this being the last day, after which Cromwell's proclama
tion was to take place, that none of the Church of England should
dare either to preach or administer Sacraments, teach schoole, &c. on
paine of imprisonment or exile. So this was ye mournfullest day that in
my life I had seene, or ye Church of England herselfe since ye Refor
mation ; to the greate rejoicing of both Papist and Presbyter*. So
pathetic was his discourse that it drew many teares from the auditory.
Myself, wife, and some of our family receiv'd ye Communion ; God
make me thankfull, who hath hitherto provided for us the food of our
soules as well as bodies ! The Lord Jesus pity our distress'd Church,
and bring back the captivity of Sion !
1656. 5 Jan. Came to visit me my Lord Lisle, sonn to ye Earle
of Leicester, with Sir Charles Ouseley, two of the Usurper's Coun
cil ; Mr. John Hervey, and John Den ham the poet.
18. Went to Eltham on foote, being a greate frost, but a mist fall
ing as I returned, gave me such a rheume as kept me within doores
neere a whole moneth after.
5 Feb. Was shew'd me a pretty perspective and well represented
in a triangular box, the greate Church of Harlem in Holland, to be
seene thro' a small hole at one of the corners and contriv'd into an
handsome cabinet. It was so rarely don, that all the artists and
painters in town flock'd to see and admire it.
10. I heard Dr. Wilkins f preach before ye Lord Mayor in St.
Pauls, shewing how obedience was preferable to sacrifice. He was a
* The text was 2 Cor. 13. 9. That, however persecution dealt with the Ministers of God's
word, they were still to pray for the flocke, and wish their perfection, as it was the flocke to pray
for and assist their pastors, by the example of St. Paul. J. E.
f Afterwards Bishop of Chester.
VOL. I. 2 Q

298 D656-
most obliging person, who had married the Protector's sister, and tooke
greate pains to preserve the Universities from the ignorant sacrilegious
Commanders and Souldiers, who would faine have demolish'd all
places and persons that pretended to learning.
11. I ventur'd to go to White-hall, where of many yeares I had not
ben, and found it very glorious and well furnish'd, as far as I could
safely go, and was glad to find- they had not much defac'd y* rare piece
of Hen. VII. &c. don on the walles of the King's privy chamber.
14. I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son of Lord Berkeley of Berkeley
Castle, where I renewed my acquaintance with my Lord Bruce, my
fellow-traveller in Italy.
19. Went with Dr. Wilkins to see Barlow, ye famous painter of
fowls, beasts and birds.
4 Mar. This night I was invited by Mr. Roger L'Estrange to hear
the incomparable Lubicer on the violin. His variety on a few notes
and plaine ground with that wonderful dexterity was "admirable. Tho'
a young man, yet so perfect and skilfull, that there was nothing, how
ever cross and perplext, brought to him by our Artists, which he did
not play off at sight with ravishing sweetnesse and improvements, to
the astonishment of our best Masters. In sum he plaid on y* single
instrument a full concert, so as the rest flung down their instruments,
acknowledging ye victory. As to my own particular, I stand to this
hour amaz'd that God should give so greate perfection to so young a
person. There were at that time as excellent in their profession as
any were thought to be in Europ, Paul Wheeler, Mr. Mell and others,
till this prodigie appear'd. I can no longer question the effects we
reade of in David's harp to charme evil spirits, or what is said some
particular notes produc'd in the passions of Alexander, and that King
of Denmark. 12 April. Mr. Berkeley and Mr. Rob* Boyle (that excellent person
and greate virtuoso), Dr. Taylor and Dr. Wilkins, din'd with me at
.Sayes Court, when I presented Dr. Wilkins with my rare burning-
glasse. In the afternoone we all went to Col. Blount's, to see his
new-invented plows.
22. Came to see me Mr. Henshaw and Sr W'n Paston's sonn, since

1656.] 299
Earle of Yarmouth. Afterwards I went to see his Majesty's house at
Eltham, both Palace and Chapell in miserable ruines, the noble woods
and park des troy 'd by Rich the Rebell.
6 May. I brought Monsr. le Franc a young French Sorbonnist, a
proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor; they fell to dispute on ori
ginal sinn, in Latine, upon a booke newly publish'd by the Doctor,
who was much satisfied with the young man. Thence I went to see
Mr. Dugdale, our learned Antiquarie and Herald. Returning, I was
shew'd the three vast volumes of Father Kircher's " Obeliscus Pam-
philius" and " .ZEgyptiacus ;" in the 2nd volume I found the Hiero
glyphic I first communicated and sent to him at Rome by the hands of
Mr. Henshaw, whom he mentions. I design'd it from ye stone itselfe
brought me to Venice from Cairo by Cap. Powell *.
7- I visited Dr. Taylor and prevail'd on him to propose Monsr le
Franc to the Bishop that he might have orders, I having some time
before brought him to a full consent to the Church of England her
doctrine and discipline, in which he had till of late made some diffi
culty ; so he was this day ordain'd both Deacon and Priest, by ye
Bishop of Meath. I paid the fees to his Lordship, who was very poore
and in greate want, to that necessity were our Clergy reduc'd ! In
the afternoone I met Alderman Robinson, to treat with Mr. Papillion
about ye marriage of my cousin George Tuke with Mrs. Fontaine.
8. I went to visit Dr. Wilkins at White-hall, when I first met with
Sir P. Neale, famous for his optic glasses. Greatorix ye mathematical
instrument maker shew'd me his excellent invention to quench fire.
12. Was publish'd my Essay on Lucretius f, with innumerable
errata by ye negligence of Mr. Triplet who undertook the correction of

* See p. 199.
f A Translation into English verse of the first Book only, the Frontispiece to which was de
signed by Mr. Evelyn's Lady. Prefixed to the copy in the Library at Wotton is this note in his
own hand-writing : " Never was book so abominably misused by printer : never copy so negli
gently surveied by one who undertooke to looke over the proofe-sheetes with all exactnesse and
care, namely Dr. Triplet, well knowne for his abilitie, and who pretended to oblige me in my
absence, and so readily offer'd himselfe. This good yet I received by it, that publishing it
vainely, its ill succes.se at the printer's discourag'd me with troubling the worlde with the rest."

300 £1656.
ye press in my absence. Little of yc Epicurean philosophy was then
known amongst us.
28. I din'd with Nieuport ye Holland Ambassador, who receiv'd
me with extraordinary courtesie. I found him a judicious, crafty and
wiseman. He gave me excellent cautions as to the danger of the
times, and the circumstances our nation was in. I remember the ob
servation he made upon the ill success of our former Parliaments, and
their private animosities, and little care of ye public.
Came to visit me the old Marques of Argyle (since executed), Lord
Lothian, and some other Scotch noblemen, all strangers to me. Note,
the Marques tooke the turtle-doves in yc aviary for owles.
The Earl of Southampton (since Treasurer) and Mr. Spencer, bro
ther to the Earle of Sunderland, came to see my garden.
7 July. I began my journey to see some parts of ye North East of
England, but ye weather was so excessive hot and dusty I shortned
my progresse.
8. To Colchester, a faire towne, but now wretchedly demolished
by the late siege, especialy the suburbs, which were all burnt, but
were then repairing. The towne is built on a rising ground, having
faire meadows on one side, and a river with a strong ancient castle,
said to have ben built by K. Coilus, father of Helena mother of Con-
stantine the Great, of whom I find no memory save at ye pinnacle of
one of their wool-staple houses, where is a statue of Coilus in wood,
wretchedly carved. The walles are exceeding strong, deeply trench'd
and fill'd with earth. It has 6 gates and some watch-towres, and some
handsome churches. But what was shewed us as a kind of miracle, at
the outside of the Castle, the wall where Sir Cha. Lucas and Sir Geo.
Lisle, those valiant and noble persons who so bravely behav'd them
selves in the last siege, were barbarously shot, murder'd by Ireton in
cold blood after surrendering on articles ; having ben disappointed of
relief from the Scotch army, which had ben defeated with the King at
Worcester. The place was bare of grasse for a large space, all ye rest
of it abounding with herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged and fac
tious towne, now swarming with Sectaries. Their trading is in cloth
with the Dutch, and baies and saies with Spaine ; it is the only place

1656.] 301
in England where these stuffs are made unsophisticated. It is also fa
mous for oysters and eringo-root, growing here about and candied
for sale.
Went to Dedham, a pretty country towne, having a very faire church
finely situated, the valley well watred. Here I met with Dr. Stokes,
a young gentleman but an excellent mathematician. This is a clothing
towne, as most are in Essex, but lies in ye unwholesome hundreds.
Hence to Ipswich, doubtlesse one of the sweetest, most pleasant, well
built Townes in England. It has twelve faire churches, many noble
houses, especialy yfc Ld Devereux's ; a brave kay and commodious har
bor, being about 7 miles from ye maine ; an ample mercat-place. Here
was born ye greate Cardinal Wolsey, who began a palace here, which
was not finish'd.
I had ye curiositv to visite some Quakers here in prison ; a new
phanatic sect, of dangerous principles, who shew no respect to any
man, magistrate or other, and seeme a melancholy proud sort of people,
and exceedingly ignorant. One of these was said to have fasted 20
daies, but another endeavouring to do ye like, perish'd on the 10th,
when he would have eaten but could not.
10. I return'd homeward, passing againe thro Colchester ; and by
the way neere the antient towne of Chelmsford, saw New Hall, built
in a parke by Henry 7- an<^ 8. and given by Queen Elizabeth to the
Earle of Sussex, who sold it to the late greate Duke of Buckingham,
and since seiz'd on by O. Cromwell (pretended Protector). It is a
faire old house built with brick, low, being only of 2 stories, as the
manner then was ; yc Gate-house better ; the Court large and pretty ;
the staire-case of extraordinary widenesse, with a piece representing
Sir F.Drake's action in the year 1580, an excellent sea-piece; yK
galleries are trifling ; the hall is noble ; the garden a faire plot, and the
whole seate well accommodated with water ; but above all I admir'd
the faire avenue planted with stately lime-trees in 4 rowes, for neere a
mile in length. It has three descents, which is the only fault, and
may be reform'd. There is another faire walk of yc same at the mall
and wildernesse, with a tennis-court, and pleasant terrace towards the
park, which was well stor'd with deere and ponds.

302 [1656.
11. Came home by Greenwich Ferry, where I saw Sir John
Winter's new project of charring sea-coale, to burne out the sulphure
and render it sweete. He did it by burning the coals in such earthen
pots as the glasse-men mealt their mettal, so firing them without con
suming them, using a barr of yron in each crucible or pot, which barr
has a hook at one end, that so the coales being mealted in a furnace wtb
other crude sea-coales under them, may be drawn out of ye potts
sticking to the yron, whence they are beaten off in greate halfe-
exhausted cinders, which being rekindl'd make a cleare pleasant
chamber fire, depriv'd of their sulphur and arsenic malignity. What
successe it may have, time will discover *.
3 Aug. I went to London to receive the B. Sacrament, the first
time the Church of England was reduced to a chamber and conventicle,
so sharp was the persecution. The Parish Churches were fill'd with
Sectaries of all sorts, blasphemous and ignorant mechanics usurping the
pulpets every where. Dr. Wild f preach'd in a private house in Fleete
Streete, where we had a greate meeting of zealous Christians, who were
generaly much more devout and religious than in our greatest pros
perity. In the afternoone I went to the French Church in the
Savoy, where I heard Monsr. d'Espagne catechise, and so return'd to
my house.
20. Was a confus'd election of Parliament cal'd by ye Usurper.
7 Sept. I went to take leave of my excellent neighbour and friend
Sir H. Newton & Lady, now going to dwell at Warwick ; and Mr.
Needham, my dear and learned friend, came to visite me.
14. Now was old Sir Hen. Vane sent to Carisbrook Castle in Wight
for a foolish booke he publish'd ; the pretended Protector fortifying
himselfe exceedingly, and sending many to prison.
2 Oct. Came to visit me my co. Stephens, and Mr. Pierce (since
Head of Magdalen Coll. Oxford) a learned minister of Brington in
Northamptonshire, and Capt. Cooke, both excellent musicians.

* Some years ago Lord Dimdonald, a Scotch nobleman, revived the project, but with the pro
jected improvement of extracting and saving the Tar. Unfortunately his Lordship did not profit
by it. The Gas-Light Company sell the coal thus charred, by the name of Coke, for fuel for many
purposes (1818). f See note, p. 319.

1656.] 303
2 Nov. There was now nothing practical preached or that pressed
reformation of life, but high and speculative points and straines that
few understood, which left people very ignorant and of no steady prin
ciples, the source of all our sects and divisions, for there was much envy
and uncharity in the world ; God of his mercy amend it ! Now indeed
that I went at all to church whilst these usurpers possess'd the pulpets,
was that I might not be suspected for a Papist, and that tho' the Minister
was Presbyterianly affected, he yet was as I understood duly ordain'd,
and preach'd sound doctrine after their way, and besides was an humble,
harmlesse and peaceable man.
25 Dec. I went to London to receive the B. Communion this holy
festival at Dr. Wild's lodgings, where I rejoiced to find so full an
assembly of devout and sober Christians.
26. I invited some of my neighbours and tenants according to cos-
tome, and to preserve hospitality and charity.
28. A stranger preached on 18 Luke, 7> 8. on which he made a
confused discourse, with a greate deale of Greeke and ostentation of
learning to but little purpose.
30. Dined with me Sir Wm. Paston's sonn, Mr. Henshaw and Mr.
Clayton. 31. I begged God's blessing & mercys for his goodnesse to me the
past yeere, and set my domestic affaires in order.
1657- January 1. Having praied wh my family and celebrated ye
Anniversarie, I spent some time in imploring God's blessing the yeare
I was entred into.
7 Jan. Came Mr. Matthew Wren (since Secretary to ycDuke, slain
in ye Dutch war) eldest son to the Bishop of Ely, now a prisoner
in ye Tower; a most worthy and learned gentleman.
10. Came Dr. Joylife, that famous physician and anatomist, first
detector of the lymphatic veins : also the old Marques of Argyle and
another Scotch Earle.
5 Feb. Din'd at ye Holland Am bassrs ; he told me the East India
Company of Holland had constantly a stock of «gg.400,000 in India, and
48 men of war there : he spoke of their exact and just keeping their
books & correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock could possibly

304 [1657.
be lost or defeated ; that it was a vulgar error that ye Hollanders fur
nished their enemies with powder and ammunition for their money,
tho' engag'd in a cruell warr, but that they us'd to merchandize indif
ferently, and were permitted to sell to the friends of their enemies.
He laugh'd at our Committee of Trade, as compos'd of men wholy
ignorant of it, and how they were the mine of commerce, by gratifying
some for private ends.
10 Feb. I went to visit ye Governor of Havanna, a brave, sober,
valiant Spanish gentleman, taken by Capt. Young of Deptford, when
after 20 yeares being in the Indies, and amassing greate wealth, his
lady and whole family except two sonns were burnt, destroy'd and taken
within sight of Spaine, his eldest sonn, daughter and wife perishing
with immense treasure *. One sonn, of about 17 years old, with his
brother of one yeare old, were the onely ones sav'd. The young gen
tleman, about 17, was a well-complexion'd youth, not olive-colour'd ;
he spake Latine handsomly, was extreamely well bred, and born in the
Caraccas, 1000 miles South of the Equinoxial, neere the mountaines of
Potosi ; he had never ben in Europe before. The Governor was an
ancient gentleman of greate courage," of ye order of St. Jago, sore
wounded in his arme, and his ribs broken ; he lost for his owne share
^.100,000 sterling, which he seem'd to beare with exceeding indif
ference, and nothing dejected. After some discourse I went with them
to Arundel House, where they din'd. They were now going back- into
Spaine, having obtain'd their liberty from Cromwell. An example of
human vicissitude !
14. To London, where I found Mrs. Cary; next day came Mr.
Mordaunt (since Viscount Mordaunt, younger sonn to ye Countesse of
Peterborow) to see his Mistress, bringing with him two of mv Ld of
Dover's daughters : so after dinner they all departed.
5 Mar. Dr. Rand, a learned physitian, dedicated to me his Version
of Gassendus's Vita Peiriskii.
25. Dr. Taylor shew'd me his MSS. of Cases of Conscience, or
Ductor dubitantium, now fitted for ye presse.
* This disastrous event is particularly noticed in Waller's Poem on a War with Spain. Fight
at Sea by General Montague 1656.

1657-] 305
The Protector, Oliver, now affecting Kingship, is petition'd to take
the Title on him by all his new-made sycophant Lords, &c. but dares
not for feare of the Phanatics, not thoroughly purg'd out of his
Rebell Army.
21 April. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer of Hanmer in Wales, to see
me. I then waited on my Lord Hatton, wh whom I dined : at my
returne I stept into Bedlame, where I saw several poore miserable
creatures in chaines ; one of them was mad with making verses. I
also visited the Charter-house, formerly belonging to the Carthusians,
now an old neate fresh solitarie CoUedge for decaied gentlemen. It has
a grove, bowling-greene, garden, chapell, and a hall where they eate in
common. I likewise saw Christ-church and Hospital, a very goodly
Gotic building; the hall, school, and lodgings in greate order for
bringing up many hundreds of poore children of both sexes ; it is an
exemplary charity. There is a large picture at one end of the hall,
representing the Governors, Founders, and the Institution.
25. I had a dangerous fall out of yfc coach in Coveht Garden, going
to my brother's, but without harme : the Lord be praised.
1 May. Divers souldiers were quarter'd at my house, but I thank
God went away the next day towards Flanders.
5. I went with my cousin George Tuke to see Baynards in Surrey,
an house of my brother Richard's, which he would have hir'd. This is
a very faire noble residence, built in a park, and having one of the
goodliest avenues of oakes up to it that ever I saw ; there is a pond*
of 60 acres neere it ; the windows of ye cheife roomes are of very fine
painted glasse. The situation is excessively dirty and melancholy f.
15. Laurence, President of Oliver's Council, and some other of his
Court Lords, came in the afternoon to see my garden and plantations.
7 June. My fourth sonn was born, christen'd George (after my
Grandfather) : Dr. Jer. Taylor officiating in the drawing-room.

* This pond belongs to Vachery in Cranley.
t It is in the lower part of the parish of Ewhurst in Surrey, adjoining to Rudgwick in Sussex,
in a deep clay soil. It was formerly the seat of Sir Edward Bray. It belonged to the late Earl of
Onslow, who carried the painted glass to his seat at Clandon.
VOL. I. 2 R

306 [l65?.
18 At Greenwich I ' saw a sort of Catt* brought from the East
Indies, shap'd and snouted much like the Egyptian racoon, in y* body
like a monkey, and so footed ; the eares and taile like a catt, onely the
taile much longer, and the skin variously ringed with black and white ;
with the taile it wound up its body like a serpent, and so got up into
trees, and with it would wrap its whole body round. Its haire was
woolly like a lamb ; it was exceedingly nimble, gentle, and purr'd as
dos ye catt.
July 16. On Dr. Jer. Taylor's recommendation I went to Eltham,
to help one Moody, a young man, to that living, by my interest with
the Patron.
6 Aug. I went to see Col. Blount, who shewed me the application
of the Way-iviser to a coach, exactly measuring the miles, and shewing
them by an index as we went on. It had 3 circles, one pointing to ye
number of rods, another to ye miles, by 10 to 1000, with all the sub
divisions of quarters ; very pretty and useful.
10. Our Vicar, from John 18. v. 36, declaim'd against ye folly of a
sort of enthusiasts and desperate zealots, call'd ye Fifth- Monarchy -Men,
pretending to set up the kingdome of Christ with the sword. To this
passe was this age ariv'd when we had no King in Israel.
21. Fell a most prodigious rain in London, and ye yeare was very
sickly in the country.
1 Sept. I visited Sr Edmund Bowyer at his melancholy seate at
Camerwell. He has a very pretty grove of oakes, and hedges of yew
in his garden, and a handsom row of tall elmes before his court.
15. Going to London with some company, we stept in to see a
famous Rope-dauncer call'd The Turk\. I saw even to astonishment
ye agilitie with which he perform'd ; he walk'd barefooted taking hold
by his toes only of a rope almost perpendicular, and without so much as
touching it with his hands ; he daunc'd blindfold on yc high rope and
with a boy of 12 yeares old tied to one of his feete about 20 foote be
neath him, dangling as he daunc'd, yet he mov'd as nimbly as if it had
* This was probably the animal called a Mocock, well known at present.
t Mr. Evelyn again mentions this person in his Numismata, under the name of the Funamble
Turk.

1657-] 307
ben but a feather. Lastly he stood on his head on ye top of a very
high mast, daunc'd on a small rope that was very slack, and finally flew
downe ye perpendicular, on his breast, his head foremost, his legs and
arms extended, with divers other activities. — I saw the hairy woman *,
20 years old, whom I had before seen when a child. She was borne at
Augsburg in Germany; Her very eye-browes were comb'd upwards,
and all her forehead as thick and even as growes on any woman's head,
neatly dress'd ; a very long lock of haire out of each eare ; she had also
a most prolix beard, and mustachios, with long locks growing on ye
middle of her nose, like an Iceland dog exactly, the colour of a bright
browne, fine as well-dress'd flax. She was now married, and told me
she had one child that was not hairy, nor were any of her parents or
relations. She was very well shap'd, and plaied well on ye harpsi
chord, &c.
17- I went to see. S1' Rob1 Needham at Lambeth, a relation of mine ;
and thence to John Tradescant's Museeum, in which the cheifest rarities
were, in my opinion, the ancient Roman, Indian and other nations
armour, shields, and weapons ; some habits of curiously-colour'd and
wrought feathers, one from ye phoenix wing as tradition goes. Other
innumerable things there were, printed in his catalogue by Mr. Ash-
mole, to whom after the death of the widow they are bequeath'd, and
by him design'd as a gift to Oxford f.
22. To towne to visit ye Holland Ambassr, with whom I had now
contracted much friendly correspondence, useful to ye intelligence I
constantly gave his Majesty abroad.
19 Sept. I went to see divers gardens about London : returning I
saw at Dr. Joyliffe's 2 Virginian rattle-snakes alive, exceeding a yard
in length, small heads, slender tailes, but in the middle nearly the size
of my leg ; when vexed, swiftly vibrating and shaking their tailes, as
loud as a child's rattle : this, by the collision of certaine grissly skinns
curiously jointed, yet loose, and transparent as parchment, by which

* Barbara Vanbeck. There are two portraits of hsr, one an engraving, the other in niez-
zotinto, described by Mr. Granger in his Biography. There is also another representation of her
;n some German Book of Natural History.
f Where they now are in the Ashmolean Museum. See hereafter, under 1678, July.

308 [1657-
they give warning : a providential caution for other creatures to avoid
them. The Doctor tried their biting on ratts and mice, w1? they im
mediately killed : but their vigour must needes be much exhausted
here, in another climate, and kept only in a barrell of bran.
26 Nov. I went to London to a Court of ye East India Company
upon its new union, in Merchant Taylors' Hall, where was much
dissorder by reason of the Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers
oblig'd onely by an engagement, without swearing, that they still might
pursue their private trade ; but it was carried against them. Wednesday
was fix'd on for a General Court for election of officers, after a sermon
and prayers for good successe. The stock resolv'd on was 800,000/.
27. I tooke ye oath at the E. India House, subscribing 500/.
2 Dec. Dr. Raynolds (since Bishop of Norwich) preach'd before
ye Company at St. Andrew Undershaft, on 13 Nehemiah, 31. shewing
by the example of Nehemiah all the perfections of a trusty person in
publique affaires, with many good precepts apposite to ye occasion,
ending with a prayer for God's blessing on the Company and ye un
dertaking. 3. Mr Gunning preached on 3 John, 3. against ye Anabaptists,
shewing ye effect and necessity of the Sacrament of Baptisme. This
sect was now wonderfully spread.
25. I went to London with my wife, to celebrate Christmas-day,
Mr. Gunning preaching in Exeter Chapell, on 7 Michah 2. Sermon
ended, as he was giving us y* Holy Sacrament, the chapell was sur
rounded with souldiers, and all the communicants and assembly sur
priz'd and kept prisoners by them, some in the house, others carried
away. It fell to my share to be confin'd to a roome in the house,
where yet I was permitted to dine with the master of it, ye Countesse
of Dorset, Lady Hatton, and some others of quality who invited me.
In the afternoone came Col. Whaly, Goffe and others, from White-hall,
to examine us one by one; some they committed to ye Marshall, some
to prison. When I came before them they tooke my name and abode,
examin'd me why, contrarie to an ordinance made that none should
any longer observe ye superstitious time of the Nativity (so esteem'd
by them), I durst offend, and particularly be at Common Prayers,

16*57-] 309
which they told me was*but yfc masse in English, and particularly pray
for Charles Steuart, for which we had no Scripture. I told them we
did not pray for Cha. Steuart, but for all Christian Kings, Princes,
and Governors. They replied, in so doing we praied for the K. of
Spaine too, who was their enemie and a papist, with other frivolous
and insnaring questions and much threatning ; and finding no colour to
detaine me, they dismiss'd me with much pitty of my ignorance. These
were men of high flight and above ordinances, and spake spiteful things
of our Lord's Nativity. As we went up to receive the Sacrament the
miscreants held their muskets against us as if they would have shot us
at the altar, but yet suffering us to finish the office of Communion, as
perhaps not having instructions what to do in case they found us in
that action. So I got home late the next day, blessed be God.
1658. 27 Jan. After six fits of a quartan ague with which it pleased
God to visite him, died my deare son Richard, to our inexpressible griefe
and affliction, 5 years and 3 days old onely, but at that tender age a
prodigy for witt and understanding ; for beauty of body a very angel ;
for endowment of mind of incredible and rare hopes. To give onely a
little taste of some of them, and thereby glory to God, who out of the
mouths of babes and infants does sometimes perfect his praises : at 2
years and halfe old he could perfectly reade any of ye English, Latine,
French, or Gottic letters, pronouncing the three first languages exactly.
He had before the 5th yeare, or in that yeare, not onely skill to reade
most written hands, but to decline all the nouns, conjugate the verbs
regular, and most of ye irregular ; learn'd out Puerilis, got by heart
almost ye entire vocabularie of Latine and French primitives and words,
could make congruous syntax, turne English into Latine, and vice
versa, construe and prove what he read, and did the government and
use of relatives, verbs, substantives, elipses, and many figures and
tropes, and made a considerable progress in Comenius's Janua ; began
himselfe to write legibly, and had a stronge passion for Greeke. The
number of verses he could recite was prodigious, and what he remem-
ber'd of the parts of playes, which he would also act ; and when seeing
a Plautus in one's hand, he ask'd what booke it was, and being told
it was comedy, and too difficult for him, he wept for sorrow. Strange

310 [1658.
was his apt and ingenious application of fables'and morals, for he had
read iEsop ; he had a wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by
heart divers propositions of Euclid that were read to him in play, and he
would make lines and demonstrate them. As to his piety, astonishing
were his applications of Scripture upon occasion, and his sense of God ;
he had learn'd all his Catechisme early, and understood ye historical
part of ye Bible and New Testament to a wonder, how Christ came to
redeeme mankind, and bow, comprehending these necessary s himselfe,
his godfathers were discharg'd of their promise. These and the like
illuminations far exceeding his age and experience, considering the
prettinesse of his addresse and behaviour, cannot but leave impressions
in me at the memory of him. When one told him how many dayes a
Quaker had fasted, he replied that was no wonder, for Christ had said
man should not live by bread alone, but by yL" Word of God. He
would of himselfe select yc most pathetic psalms, and chapters out of
Job, to reade to his mayde during his sicknesse, telling her when she
pittied him that all God's children must suffer affliction. He declaim'd
against ye vanities of ye world before he had seene any. Often he
would desire those who came to see him to pray by him, and a yeare
before he fell sick, to kneel and pray with him alone in some corner.
How thankfully would he receive admonition, how soone be reconciled !
how indifferent, yet continualy chereful ! He would give grave advice
to his brother John, beare with his impertinencies, and sav he was but
a child. If he heard of or saw any new thing, he was unquiet till he
was told how it was made ; he brought to us all such difficulties as he
found in books, to be expounded. He had learn'd by heart divers sen
tences in Latin and Greeke, which on occasion he would produce even
to wonder. He was all life, all prettinesse, far from morose, sullen,
or childish in any thing he said or did. The last time he had ben at
church (wch was at Greenewich), I ask'd him, according to costome,
what he remembered of ye sermon ; two good things, father, said he,
bonum gratia? and bonum glorice, with a just account of what ye
preacher said. The day before he died he cal'd to me, and in a more
serious manner than usual told me that for all I loved him so dearly
I should give my house, land, and all my fine things, to his brother

1658.] 311
Jack, he should have none of them ; and next morning, when he
found himself ill, and that I persuaded him to keepe his hands in bed,
he demanded whether he might pray to God with his hands un-joyn'd ;
and a little after, whilst in greate agonie, whether he should not offend
God by using his holy name so often calling for ease. What shall I
say of his frequent pathetical ejaculations utter'd of himselfe ; Sweete
Jesus save me, deliver me, pardon my sinns, let thine angels receive
me ! So early knowledge, so much piety and perfection ! But thus
God having dress'd up a Saint fit for himselfe, would not longer permit
him with us, unworthy of ye future fruites of this incomparable hope-
full blossome. Such a child I never saw : for such a child I blesse
God in whose bosome he is ! May I and mine become as this little
child, who now follows the child Jesus that Lamb of God in a white
robe whithersoever he goes ; Even so, Lord Jesus, fiat voluntas tua!
Thou gavest him to us, Thou hast taken him from us, blessed be ye
name of yb Lord ! That I had any thing acceptable to Thee was from
thy grace alone, since from me he had nothing but sin, but that Thou
hast pardon'd ! blessed be my God for ever, amen !
In my opinion he was suffocated by ye women and maids that tended
him, and cover'd him too hot with blankets as he lay in a cradle, near
an excessive hot fire in a close roome. I suffer'd him to be open'd, when
they found that he was what is vulgarly call'd liver-growne. I caused
his body to be coffin'd in lead and reposited on the 30th at 8 o'clock
that night in the church of Deptford accompanied with divers of my
relations and neighbours, among whom I distributed rings with this
motto, Dominus abstulit ; intending, God willing, to have him trans
ported with my owne body to be interr'd in our dormitory in Wotton
church, in my dear native county Surrey, and to lay my bones and
mingle my dust with my fathers, if God be gracious to me and make
me as fit for Him as this" blessed child was. The Lord Jesus sanctify
this and all other my afflictions, Amen ! *

* In the Preface to his Translation of " The Golden Book of St. Chrysostom, concerning the
Education of Children," is likewise given a very interesting account of this amiable and promising
child.

312 [1658.
Here ends the joy of my life, and for which I go even mourning to
the grave.
15 Feb. The afflicting hand of God being still upon us, it pleased
Him also to take away from, us this morning my youngest sonn, George,
now 7 weekes languishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and ending in a
dropsie. God's holy will be done ! He was buried in Deptford church
yfc 17th following.
25. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor & my Brothers with other friends -to
visite and condole with us.
March 7- To London to hear Dr. Taylor in a private house on
13 Luke 23, 24. After the sermon followed the blessed Communion,
of which I participated. In the afternoone Dr. Gunning at Excester
House expounding part of the Creede.
This had ben ye severest winter that any man alive had known in
England. The crowes feete were frozen to their prey. Islands of ice
inclos'd both fish and fowl frozen, and some persons in their boates.
15 May was a public Fast to avert an epidemical sicknesse, very-
mortal this spring.
20. I went to see a coach-race in Hide Park, and collation'd in
Spring Garden.
23. Dr. Manton, the famous Presbyterian, preach'd at Covent Gar
den, on 6 Matthew 10. shewing what the kingdome of God was, how-
pray for it, &c.
There was now a collection for persecuted and sequester'd Ministers
of the Church of England, whereof divers are in prison. A sad day !
The Church now in dens and caves of the earth.
31. I went to visite my Lady Peterborow, whose sonn, Mr. Mor
daunt, prisoner in the Tower, was now on his trial, and acquitted but
by one voice ; but that holy martyr Dr. Hewer was condemn'd to die,
without law, jury, or justice, but by a mock Council of State as they
call'd it. A dangerous, treacherous time !
2 June. An extraordinary storm of haile and raine, y" season as
cold as winter, the wind Northerly neere 6 moneths.
3 A large whale was taken betwixt my land butting on the Thames
and Greenewich, which drew an infinite concourse to see it, by water,

1-658.] 313
horse, coach, and on foote, from London and all parts. It appear'd
first below Greenewich at low water, for at high water it would have
destroyed all ye boates, but lying now in shallow water incompass'd
with boates, after a long conflict it was kill'd with a harping yron,
struck in ye head, out of which spouted blood and water by two tun-
nells, and after an horrid grone it ran quite on shore and died. Its
length was 58 foote, heighth 16 ; black skin'd like coach leather, very
small eye_s, greate taile, onely 2 small finns, a picked snout, and a
mouth so wide that divers men might have stood upright in it ; no
teeth, but suck'd the slime onely as thro' a grate of that bone which
we call whale-bone ; the throate yet so narrow as would not have ad
mitted the least of fishes. The extreames of the cetaceous bones hang
downewards from the upper jaw, and was hairy towards the ends and
bottom within side : all of it prodigious, but in nothing more wonderfull
then that an animal of so greate a bulk should be nourished onely by
slime thro' those grates.
9. I went to see the Earl of Northumberland's pictures, whereof
that of ye Venetian Senators * was one of the best of Titian's, and an
other of Andrea del Sarto, viz. a Madonar Christ, St. John, and an
Old Woman, &c. a St. Catharine of Da Vinci, with divers portraits of
Van Dyke ; a Nativity of Georgioni ; the last of our blessed Kings
(Charles I.J and ye Duke of York, by Lely ; a rosarie by ye famous
Jesuits of Bruxelles, and severall more. This was in Suffolk House : the
new front towards ye gardens is tollerable, were it not drown'd by a too
massie and clomsie pair of stayres of stone, without any neate invention.
8. That excellent preacher and holy man Dr. Hewer was martyr'd
for haying intelligence with his Majesty f , thro' the Lord Marques of
Ormond. 10. I went to see ye Medical Garden at Westminster, well stored
with plants, under Morgan, a very skilfull botanist.
26. To Eltham to visite honest Mr. Owen.
3 July. To London, and din'd with Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Dorell,

* The Cornaro Family, still one of the grand ornaments of Northumberland House. There is a
fine Print of it, engraved by Baron.
f He was beheaded on Tower Hill. He was Minister of St. Gregory's, London.
VOL. I. 2 s

314 D658.
and Mr. Ashmole, founder of ye Oxford repository of rarities, with
divers doctors of physic and virtuosos.
15. Came to see me my Lord Kilmurrey & Lady, Sr. Robert Need
ham, Ml Offley, and two daughters of my Lord Willoughby of Parham.
3 August. Went to Sir John Evelyn at Godstone. The place is
excellent, but might be improved by turning some offices of the house,
and removing the garden. The house being a noble fabric tho' not
comparable to what was first built by my uncle, who was master of all
ye powder-mills.
5. We went to Squirries * to visit my cousin Leech, daughter to
Sir John ; a pretty, finely wooded, and well water'd seate, the stables
good, the house old, but convenient. 6. Returned to Wotton.
10. I din'd at Mr. Carew Raleigh's, at Horsley, son to the famous
Sir Walter.
14. We went to Durdans [at Epsom] to a challeng'd match at
bowls for 10/. which we wonn.
18. To Sir Ambrose Brown at Betchworth Castle, in that tem
pestuous wind which threw downe my greatest trees at Sayes Court,
and did so much mischeife all over England. It continued the whole •
night and till 3 in the afternoone of the next day, in the South West,
and destroy'd all our winter fruit.
3 Sept. Died that arch rebell Oliver Cromwell, cal'd Protector.
16. Was publish'd my Translation of St. Chrysostome on Education
of Children, which I dedicated to both my Brothers, to comfort them
on the loss of their children.
21. My Lord Berkeley of Berkeley Castle invited me to dinner.
26. Mr. King preach'd at Ashted on 15 Proverbs 24; a Quaker
would have disputed with him. In the afternoone we heard Dr. Hacket
(since Bp. of Lichfield) at Cheame, where the family of the Lumlies lie
buried. 27- To Bedington, that ancient seate of the Carews, a fine old hall,
but a scambling house, famous for the first Orange gardens in England,
being now over-growne trees, planted in ye ground, and secur'd in win
ter with a wooden tabernacle and stoves. This seate is rarely watred,
* At Westerham, in Kent.

1658.] 315
lying low, & inviron'd with good pastures. The pomegranads beare
here. To the house is also added a fine park. Thence to Casshalton,
excellently watred, and capable of being made a most delicious seate,
being on the sweete downes, and a champion about it full planted with
walnut and cherry-trees, which afford a considerable rent.
Riding over these downes and discoursing with the shepherds, I
found that digging about ye bottom neere Sir Christopher Buckle's *,
neere Bansted, divers medails have ben found, both copper and silver,
with foundations of houses, urns, &c. Here indeede anciently stood a
Citty of ye Romans. See Antonine's Itinerary.
29. I return'd home after 10 weekes absence.
Oct. 2. I went to London to receive the H. Sacrament. On the 3d
Dr Wild preached in a private place on the 1 Isaiah 4. shewing the pa
rallel betwixt tbe sinns of Israel and those of England. In the after
noone Mr. Hall (sonn to Joseph Bp. of Norwich) on 1 Cor. 6. 2. of
the dignitie of the Saints, a most excellent discourse.
4. I din'd with ye Holland Ambassador at Derby House : returning
I diverted to see a very white raven, bred in Cumberland ; also a por
cupine, of that kind that shoots its quills, of wch see Claudian; it
was headed like a rat, the fore feete like a badger, the hind feete like
a beare. 19. I was summoned to London by ye Commissioners for new
buildings; afterwards to y° Commission of Sewers; but because there
was an oath to be taken of fidelity to the Government as now constituted
without a King, I got to be excus'd, and return'd home.
22. Saw yc superb funerall of ye Protector. He was carried from
Somerset House in a velvet bed of state drawn by six horses, houss'd
wth ye same ; the pall held up by his new Lords ; Oliver lying in effigie
in royal robes, and crown'd with a crown, sceptre, and globe, like a king.
The pendants and guidons were carried by ye Officers of the Army;
the imperial banners, acheivements, &c. byye hereaulds in their coates;
a rich caparison'd horse, embroider' d all over with gold ; a knight of
¦ — — — — — — ^ .^— — — __  . — ^
* This house is not far from the course of the Roman road from Chichester through Sussex, and
passing through Ockley and Dorking church-yard. Considerable remains of a Roman building
have been found on Walton Heath, South of this house.

316 [1658.
honour arm'd cap-a-pie, and after all, his guards, souldiers, and innu
merable mourners. In this equipage they proceeded to Westminster :
but it was the joyfullest funerall I ever saw, for there were none that
cried but dogs, which the soldiers hooted away with a barbarous noise,
drinking and taking tobacco in the streetes as they went. I returned
not home till the 17th November.
I was summon'd againe to London by the Commissioners for new
foundations to be erected within such a distance of London.
6 Dec. Now was publish'd my " French Gardener," the first and best
of that kind that introduc'd ye use of the Olitorie garden to any purpose.
23. I went with my wife to keep Christmas at my co. Geo. Tuke's,
at Cressing Temple in Essex. Lay that night at Brentwood.
25. Here was no publiq service, but what we privately us'd. I
blessed God for his mercies the yeare past, and 1 Jany begged a con
tinuance of them. Thus for three Sundays, by reason of the incum
bent's death, here was neither praying nor preaching, tho' there was a
Chapell in the house.
1659. 17 Jan. Our old Vicar preach'd, taking leave of the parish
in a pathetical speech, to go to a living in the Citty.
24 Mar. I went to London to speake to ye patron Alderman Cuttler
about presenting a fit pastor for our destitute parish church.
5 April. Came ye Earle of Northampton and the famous painter
Mr. Wright * to visite me.
10 April. One Mr. Littler being now presented to ye living of our
parish, preach'd on 6 John 55, a sermon preparatory to* the Holy
Sacrament. 25. A wonderfull and suddaine change in ye face of ye publiq; ye
new Protector Richard slighted ; several pretenders and parties strive
for ye government : all anarchy and confusion; Lord have mercy on us !
5 May. I went to visite my brother in London, and next day to see
a new Opera -j*, after ye Italian way, in recitative music and sceanes,
* Mr. Michael Wright, who painted the twelve Judges in Guildhall after the great fire. There is
a long account of him in " Walpole's Anecdotes of Painting." See more of him under 1662, Oct.
t Probably Sir William Davenant's Opera, in which the cruelty of the Spaniards in Peru was
expressed by instrumental and vocal music, and by art of perspective in scenes, 4to, 1658. See
the " Biographia Dramatica."

1659-] 317
much inferior to ye Italian composure and magnificence; but it was
prodigious that in a time of such publiq consternation such a vanity
should be kept up or permitted. I being engag'd with company could
not decently resist the going to see it, tho' my heart smote me for it.
7. Came ye Ambassr of Holland and his Lady to visite me, and
staid the whole afternoone.
12. I return'd ye visite, discoursing much of ye revolutions, &c.
19 May. Came to dine with me my Lord Galloway and his son, a
Scotch Lord and learned; also my Brother and his Lady, Lord
Berkeley and his Lady, Mrs. Shirley, and ye famous singer Mrs.
Knight *, and other friendes.
23. I went to Rookwood f, and din'd with Sr Wra. Hicks, where
was a great feast and much company. 'Tis a melancholy old house, in-
viron'd with trees and rooks.
26. Came to see me my Lord Geo. Berkeley, Sir Will. Ducy, and
Sir George Pott's sonn of Norfolk.
29. The Nation was now in extreame confusion and unsettl'd, be
tween the Armies and the Sectaries, the poor Church of England
breathing as it were her last, so sad a face of things had overspread us.
7 June. To London, to take leave of my brother, and see ye founda
tions now laying for a long streete and buildings in Hatton Garden,
design'd for a little towne, lately an ample garden.
1 Sept. I communicated to Mr. Rob1 Boyle, son to ye Earle of
Corke, my proposal for erecting a philosophic mathematic College.
15. Came to see me Mr. Brereton, a very, learned gentleman, son
to my Lord Brereton, with his and divers other ladies. Also Henry
Howard of Norfolk, since Duke of Norfolk.

* Afterwards one of Charles the Second's mistresses,
j- This was a house in Layton in Essex, better known by the name of Rockholt, or Ruckholt,
built by Mr. Parvish, a former owner of the estate ¦ but a new house was afterwards erected near
the site of the former by the family of Hicks, of whom William was created a baronet in 1619.
King Charles II. was entertained here one day when he was hunting, and knighted William the son
of the Baronet. Morant, in his " History of Essex," vol. I. p. 24, printed 1768, speaks of the
new house as having been a beautiful one, pulled down some years ago. Previous to this it had
been a place of public entertainment in a morning, at which visitors were regaled with tea
and music, which is not mentioned by Morant.

318 [1659.
30. I went to visite Sr Wm. Ducie and Col. Blount, where I met
Sir Henry Blount ye famous traveller and water-drinker.
10. I came with my wife and family to London : tooke lodgings at
ye 3 Feathers in Russell. Street, Covent Garden, for all the winter, my
sonn being very unwell.
11 Oct. Came to visite me Mr. Wm. Coventry (since Secretary to
the Duke) son to the Lord Keeper, a wise and witty gentleman.
The Armie now turn'd out the Parliam1. We had now no Govern
ment in the Nation ; all in confusion ; no Magistrate either own'd or
pretended but ye Souldiers, and they not agreed. God Almighty have
mercy on and settle us !
17- I visited Mr. Howard at Arundel house, who gave me a faire
onyx set in gold, and shew'd me his designe of a Palace there.
21. A private Fast was kept by the Church of England^Protestants
in towne, to beg of God the removal of His judgments, with devout
prayers for His mercy to our calamitous Church.
7 Nov. Was publish'd my bold Apologie for the King in this
time of danger, when it was capital to speake or write in favour of him.
It was twice printed, so universaly it took.
9. We observ'd our solemn Fast for ye calamity of our Church.
12. I went to see the severall drougs for the confection of Treacle,
Dioscordium, and other Electuaries, which an ingenious Apothecarie
had not onely prepared and rang'd on a large and very long table, but
cover'd every ingredient with a sheete of paper, on which was very
lively painted ye thing in miniature, well to the life, were it plant,
flowre, animal, or other exotic droug.
15 Nov. Din'd with ye Dutch Ambassr. He did in a manner ac
knowledge that his Nation mind only their own profit, do nothing out
of gratitude, but collateraly as it relates to their gaine or security ; and
therefore the English were to look for nothing of assistance to the ba-
nish'd King. This was to me no very grateful discourse, tho' an inge
nuous confession.
18. Mr. Gunning celebrated ye wonted Fast, and preached on 2
Phil. 12, 13. — Nov. 24. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] invited us to
the 41st wedding-day feast, where was much company of friends.

1659-] 319
26. I was introduced into the acquaintance of divers learned and
worthy persons, Sir John Marsham, Mr. Dugdale, Mr. Stanley, and
others. 9 Dec. I supp'd with Mr. Gunning, it being our Fast-day, Dr.
Fearne, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain, Dr. Henchman, Dr. Wild*,
and other devout and learned Divines, firm Confessors and excellent
persons. Note: Most of them since made Bishops.
10. I treated privately with Col. Morley f , then Lieutenant of the
Tower, and in greate trust and power, concerning delivering it to ye
King and the bringing of him in, to the greate hazard of my life, but
ye Coll. had ben my scholefellow, and I knew would not betray me.
12. I spent in publiq concerns for his Majesty, pursuing the point
to bring over Coll. Morley, and his brother-in-law Fay, Governor of
Portsmouth. 18. Preached y1 famous divine Dr. Sanderson (since Bp. of Line.)
now 80 yeares old, on 30 Jer. 13. concerning the evil of forsaking God.
29. Came my Lord Count Arundel of Wardour to visite me. I
went also to see my Lord Visc Montague.
31. Settling my domestic affaires in order, blessed God for his in
finite mercies and preservations the past yeare.
Annus Mirabilis 1660. Jan. 1. Begging God's blessings for
the following yeare, I went to Excester Chapell, when Mr. Gunning
began the yeare on 4 Galatians v. 3 to 7> shewing the love of Christ
in shedding his blood so, early for us.
12. Wrote to Col. Morley againe to declare for his Majesty.
22. I went this afternoone to visit Coll. Morley. After dinner I
discours'd with him, but he was very jealous, and would not believe
Monk came in to do the King any service ; I told him he might do it
without him, and have all the honour. He was still doubtfull, and
would resolve on nothing yet, so I tooke leave f .

* See p. 302. He was of St. John's College, Oxford, Chaplain to Abp. Laud, Vicar of St. Giles,
Reading. Adhering to the King he preach'd before the Pari* at Oxford. After the Restoration he
was made Bp. of Londonderry in Ireland. He had kept up a religious meeting for the Royalists in
Fleet Street. Wood's Athense, vol. II. p. 251.
f See a detailed account of Mr. Evelyn's communications with Col. Morley, in the Illustrations
at the end of this Volume, No. II.

320 Clff59-
3 Feb Kept ye Fast. Generall Monk came now to London out
of Scotland, but no man knew what he would do, or declare yet he
was met on all his way by the Gentlemen of all the Counties which he
pass'd, with petitions that he would recall the old long interrupted
Parliament and settle the nation in some order, being at this time in
most prodigious confusion and under no government, every body ex
pecting what would be next and what he would do.
' 10. Now were the Gates of the Citty broken down by Gen1 Monke,
which exceedingly exasperated the Citty, the souldiers marching up
and down as triumphing over it, and all the old army of the phanatics
put out of their posts, and sent out of towne.
11. A signal day. Monk, perceiving how infamous and wretched
a pack of knaves would have still usurped the supreame power, and
having intelligence that they intended to take away his commission,
repenting of what he had don to ye Citty, and where he and his forces
quartered, marches to White-hall, dissipates that nest of robbers, and
convenes the old Parliament, the Rump Parliament (so call'd as re
taining some few rotten members of ye other) being dissolv'd ; and for
ioy whereoff were many thousand of rumps roasted publiqly in ye
streetes at the bonfires this night*, with ringing of bells, and universal
jubilee. This was the first good omen.
From 17 Eeb. to 5 April I was detain'd in bed with a kind of double
tertian, the cruell effects of the spleene and other distempers, in that
extremity that my physicians, Drs. Wetherborn, Needham, and
Claude, were in great doubt of my recovery, but it pleas'd God to
deliver me out of this affliction, for which I render him hearty thanks :
going to Church the 8th and receiving the blessed Eucharist.
During this sicknesse came divers of my relations and friends to
visite me, and it retarded my going into the country longer than I in
tended ; however I writ and printed a letter in defence of his Majesty f,

* Pamphlets with cuts representing this were printed at the time.
t The title of it is, " The late News or Message from Brussels unmask'd." This and the pam
phlet which gave occasion for it are printed in " A Collection of interesting Tracts selected from
the Sommers Collection of Tracts," 1 vol. 4to, 1795.

1660.] 321
against a wicked forg'd paper, pretended to be sent from Bruxells to
defame his Majesties person and vertues, and render him odious, now
when every body was in hope and expectation of the General and Par
liament recalling him, and establishing ye Government on its antient
and right basis. The doing this towards the decline of my sicknesse,
and setting up long in my bed, had caus'd a small relapse, out of which
it yet pleas'd God also to free me, so as by the 14th I was able to go
into ye country, which I did to my sweete and native aire at Wotton.
3 May. Came the most happy tidings of his Majesty's gracious
declaration and applications to the Parliament, Generall, and People,.
and their dutiful acceptance and acknowledgment, after a most bloudy
and unreasonable rebellion of neere 20 yeares. Praised be for ever the
Lord of Heaven, who onely doeth wondrous things, because His mercy
endureth for ever !
8. This day was his Majestie proclalm'd in London, &c.
9 May. I was desir'd, and design'd to accompany my Lord Berkeley
with the public Addresse of the Parliament, Generall, &c. to the King,
and invite him to come over and assume his Kingly Government, he
being now at Breda ; but I was yet so weake I could not make that
journey by sea, which was not a little to my detriment, so I went to
London to excuse myselfe, returning the 10th, having yet receiv'd a
gracious message from his Majestie by Major Scot and Coll. Tuke.
24. Came to me Col. Morley, about procuring his pardon, now too
late seeing his error and neglect of the counsel I gave him, by which
if he had taken it he had certainly done ye great work with ye same
ease that Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a
post to have done what he pleas'd, but his jealousie and feare kept him
from that blessing and honor. I address'd him to Lord Mordaunt,
then in greate favour, for his pardon, wch he obtain'd at the cost of
1000/. as I heard. O ye sottish omission of this gentleman ! what did
I not undergo of danger in this negotiation to have brought him over
to his Majesty's interest, when it was intirely in his hands !
29. This day his Majestie Charles the Second came to London after
a sad and long exile and calamitous suffering both of the King and
Church, being 17 yeares. This was also his birth-day, and with at
vol. I. 2 T

322 [1660.
triumph of above 20,000 horse and foote, brandishing their swords and
shouting with inexpressible joy ; the wayes strew'd with flowers, the
bells ringing, the streetes hung with tapissry, fountaines running with
wine ; the Maior, Aldermen, and all the Companies in their liveries,
chaines of gold, and banners ; Lords and Nobles clad in cloth of silver,
gold, and velvet ; the windowes and balconies all set with ladies ; trum
pets, music, and myriads of people flocking, even so far as from Roches
ter, so as they were seven houres in passing the Citty, even from 2 in
yc afternoone till 9 at night.
I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and bless'd God. And all this
was don without one drop of bloud shed, and by that very army which
rebell'd against him : but it was ye Lord's doing, for such a Restaura-
tion was never mention'd in any history antient or modern, since the
returne of the Jews from the Babylonish captivity ; nor so joyfull a
.day and so bright ever seene in this Nation, this hapning when to
expect or effect it was past all human policy.
4 June. I receiv'd letters of Sir RicbA Browne's landing at Dover,
and also letters from the Queene, which I was to deliver at White-hall,
not as yet presenting myselfe to his Majesty by reason of the infinite
concourse of people. The eagerness of men, women, and children to
see bis Majesty and kisse his hands was so greate, that he had scarce
leisure to eate for some dayes, coming as they did from all parts of the
Nation ; and the King being as willing to give them that satisfaction,
would have none kept out, but gave free accesse to all sorts of people.
Addressing myselfe to the Duke, I was carried to his Majestie when
very few noblemen were with him, and kiss'd his hands, being very
graciously receiv'd. I then return'd home to meete Sir Richd Browne,
who came not till the 8th, after a 19 yeares exile, during all which
time he kept up in his chapell the Liturgie and Offices of the Church
of England, to his no small honour, aud in a time when it was so low,
and as many thought utterly lost, that in various controversies both
with Papists and Sectaries our Divines us'd to argue for the visibility of
the Church, from his chapell and congregation.
I was all this week too and fro at Court about buisinesse.
16. The French, Italian, and Dutch Ministers came to make their

t6fJo.] 323
addresse to his Majesty, one Mons1. Stoope pronouncing the harangue
with greate eloquence.
18. I propos'd ye Ambassy of Constantinople for Mr. Henshaw, but
my Lord Winchelsea struck in *.
Goods that had ben pillag'd from White-hall during ye Rebellion
were now daily brought in and restor'd upon proclamation ; as plate,
hangings, pictures, ccc.
21. The Warwickshire gentlemen (as did all the shires and cheif
townes in all the three Nations) presented their congratulatory Addresse.
It was carried by my Lord Northampton.
30. The Sussex gentlemen presented their Addresse, to which was
my "hand. I went with it and kiss'd his Maties hand, who was pleas'd
to own me more particularly by calling me his old acquaintance and
speaking very graciously to me.
3 July. I went to Hide-park, where was his Matie and aboundance
of gallantrie.
4. I heard Sir Sam. Tuke harangue to the House of Lords in
behalfe of ye Roman Catholics, and his account of the transaction at
Colchester in murdering Lord Capel, and the rest of those brave men
that suffer'd in cold bloud, after articles of rendition.
5. I saw his Matie go with as much pompe and splendour as any
earthly prince could do to the greate Citty feast, the first they had
invited him to since his returne, but the exceeding raine which fell all
that day much eclips'd its lustres. This was at Guild-hall, and there
was also all ye Parliament men, both Lords and Commons. The
streetes were adorn'd with pageants at immense cost.
6. His Majestie began first to touch for ye evil, according to cos-
tome, thus : his Matie sitting under his State in ye Banquetting House,
the Chirurgeons cause the sick to be brought or led up to the throne,
where they kneeling, ye King strokes their faces or cheekes with both
his hands at once, at which instant a Chaplaine in his formalities savs,

* It was on his return from this embassy that his Lordship visiting Sicily was an eye-witness of
the dreadful eruption of Mount Mtaa. in 1669, a short account of which was afterwards published
in a small pamphlet, with a cut by Hollar of the Mountain, &c.

324 [1660.
<• He put his hands upon them and he healed them." This is sayd to
every one in particular. When they have ben all touch'd they come
up againe in the same order, and the other Chaplaine kneeling, and
having Angel gold* strung on white ribbon on his arme, delivers them
one by one to his Matie, who puts them about the necks of the touched
as they passe, whilst the first Chaplaine repeats, " That is ye true light
who came into ye world." Then followes an Epistle (as at first a
Gospell) with the Liturgy, prayers for the sick, with some alteration,
lastly ye blessing; and then the Lo. Chamberlaine and Comptroller of
the Household bring a basin, ewer and towell, for his Matie to wash.
The King receiv'd a congratulatory addresse from the Citty of Co
logne in Germany, where he had ben some time in his exile ; his Mat,e
saying they were the best people in ye world, the most kind and worthy
to him that he ever met with.
I recommended Monsr Messeroy to be Judge Advocate in Jersey, by
the Vice-Chamberlain's mediation with the Earle of St. Albans ; and
saluted my excellent and worthy noble friend my Lord Ossory, sonn to
the Marquess of Ormond, after many yeares absence returned home.
8. Mr. Henchman preached on 5 Ephes. 5, concerning Christian
circumspection. From henceforth was the Liturgie publiquely used in
our Churches, whence it had ben for so many yeares banished.
1 5. Came Sir Geo. Carterett and Lady to visite us : he was now
Treasurer of the Navy.
28. I heard his Maties Speech in the Lords House, on passing the
Bills of Tonnage and Poundage ; restauration of my Lord Ormond to
his estate in Ireland ; concerning the Commission of Sewers, and con
tinuance of the Excise.. — In the afternoone I saluted my old friend the
Archbishop of Armagh, formerly of Londonderry (Dr. Bramhall).
He presented several Irish Divines to be promoted as Bishops in that
kingdom, most of the Bishops in the 3 kingdoms being now almost
worne out, and the Sees vacant.
31. I went to visite Sr Philip Warwick, now Secretary to the Ld
Treasurer, at his house in North Cray.
* Pieces of money so called from having the figure of an angel on them.

1660.] 325
Aug. 19. Our Vicar read the 39 Articles to the Congregation, the
National Assemblies beginning now to settle, and wanting instruction.
23. Came Duke Hamilton, Lord Lothian, and several Scottish
Lords, to see my garden.
25. Coll. Spencer, Collonel of a Regiment of Horse in our County
of Kent, sent to me and intreated that I would take a Commission for
a Troope of Horse, and that I would nominate my Lieutenant and En
signs ; I thank'd him the honour intended me, but would by no means
undertake yL trouble.
4 Sept. I was invited to an Ordination by ye Bishop of Bangor in
Henry 7ths Chapell, Westmr, and afterwards saw the audience of an
Envoyee from the D. of Anjou, sent to compliment his Maties return.
5. Came to visit and dine with me ye Envoyee of yc King of Po
land and Resident of ye King of Denmark, &c.
7« I went to Chelsey, to visite Mr. Boyle, and see his pneumatic
engine performe divers experiments. Thence to Kensington, to visite
Mr. Henshaw, returning home y* evening.
13. I saw in South wark at St. Margaret's Faire, monkies and apes
dance and do other feates of activity on ye high rope ; they were gal
lantly clad a, la mode, went upright, saluted the company, bowing and
pulling off their hatts ; they saluted one another with as good a grace as
if instructed by a dauncing-master ; they turn'd heels over head with
a basket having eggs in it, without breaking any ; also with lighted
candles in their hands and on their heads without extinguishing them,.
and with vessells of water without spilling a drop. I also saw an Ita
lian wench daunce and performe all the tricks on ye high rope to admi
ration ; all the Court went to see her. Likewise here was a man who
tooke up a piece of iron cannon of about 400 lb. weight with the haire
of his head onely.
17 Sept. I went to. London to see ye splendid entry of ye Prince
de Ligne, Ambassr extraordinary from Spaine ; he was Generall of ye
Spanish King's horse in Flanders, and was accompanied wth divers
greate persons from thence, and an innumerable retinue. His train
consisted of 17 coaches with 6 horses of his owne, besides a greate
number of English, &c. Greater bravery had I never seene. He was

326 [1660.
receiv'd in the Banquetting House in exceeding state, all ye greate
Officers of Court attending.
13. In the midst of all this joy and jubilee the Duke of Glocester
died of ye small pox in the prime of youth, and a prince of extraor
dinary hopes.
27- The King receiv'd the Merchants Addresses in his closet,
giving them assurance of his persisting to keepe Jamaica, choosing
Sr Edw. Massy Governor. In the afternoone the Danish Ambrs con
dolences were presented, on the death of the D. of Gloucester. This
evening I saw the Princesse Royal, mother to ye Pr. of Orange, now
come out of Holland in a fatal period.
6 Oct. I paid the greate Tax of Poll Money levied for disbanding
the Army, till now kept up. I paid as an Esquire ^8.10, and one
shilling for every servant in my house.
7 Oct. There din'd with me a French Count, with Sr George Tuke,
who came to take leave of me, being sent over to the Queene Mother to
breake the marriage of the Duke with the daughter of Chancellr Hide
The Queene would fain have undon it, but it seemes matters were
reconcil'd on greate offers of the Chancellor's to befriend ye Queene, who
was much in debt, and was now to have the settlement of her affaires
go through his hands.
11 Oct. The Regicides who sat on the life of our late King, were
brought to tryal in the Old Bailey, before a Commission of Oyer and
Terminer. 14. Axtall, Carew, Clements, Hacker, Hewson, and Peters, were
executed. 17- Scot, Scroope, Cook, and Jones, suffered for reward of their
iniquities at Charing Crosse, in sight of the place where they put to
death their natural Prince, and in the presence of the King his sonn
whom they also sought to kill. I saw not their execution, but met
their quarters mangl'd and cutt and reeking as they were brought from
the gallows in baskets on the hurdle. Oh the miraculous providence
of God !
28. His Majesty went to meet ye Queene Mother.
29. Going to London, my Lord Maior's shew stopp'd me in

1660.] 327
Cheapside; one of ye pageants represented a greate Wood, with ye
Royal Oake and historie of his Majesty's miraculous escape at Boscobel.
Oct. 31. Arived now to my Fortieth year, I rendered to Almighty
God my due and hearty thanks.
Nov. 1 . I went with some of my relations to Court, to shew them
his Mat,es cabinet and closset of rarities ; the rare miniatures of Peter
Oliver after Raphael, Titian, and other masters, which I infinitely
esteeme ; also that large piece of ye Dutchesse of Lennox don in ena-
maile by Petitot, and a vast number of achates, onyxes and intaglios,
especially a medalion of Caesar, as broad as my hand ; likewise rare
cabinets of Pietra Commessa ; a landscape of needlework, formerly
presented by the Dutch to King Cha. 1. Here I saw a vast book of
mapps in a volume neere 4 yards large ; a curious ship modell ; and
amongst the clocks, one that shew'd the rising and setting of the Sun
in ye Zodiaq, the Sunn represented by a face and raies of gold, upon
an azure skie, observing ye diurnal and annual motion, rising and
setting behind a landscape of hills, the work of our famous Fromantel ;
and severall other rarities.
3. Ariv'd the Queene Mother in England, whence she had ben
banish'd almost 20 yeares ; together with her illustrious daughter
the Princesse Henrietta, divers Princes and Noblemen accompanying
them. 15. I kiss'd the Queene Mother's hand.
20. I din'd at ye Clerk Comptroler's of the Greene Cloth, being the
first day of ye re-establishment of the Court Diet and settling of his
Majesty's Household.
23. Being this day in ye Bedchamher of ye Princess Henrietta,
where were many greate beauties and noblemen, I saluted divers of my
old friends and acquaintances abroad ; his Majesty carrying my wife to
salute the Queene and Princesse, and then led her into his closet, and
with his owne hands shew'd her divers curiosities.
25. Dr. Rainbow preach'd before ye King, on 2 Luke 14. of the
glory to be given God for all his mercies, especialy for restoring the
Church and government; now ye service was perform'd with musiq,
voices, &c. as formerly.

328 [1660.
27- Came downe ye Cleark Comptroler [of ye Green Cloth] by the
Lord Steward's appointment, to survey ye land at Says Court, on
which I had pretence, and to make his report *.
Dec. 6. I waited on my brother and sister Evelyn to Court. Now
were presented to his Majestie those two rare pieces of Drolery, or
rather a Dutch Kitchin, painted by Dowe so finely as hardly to be
distinguish'd from enamail. I was also shew'd divers rich Jewells and
chrystal vases ; the rare head of Jo. Belino, Titian's master ; Christ
in ye Garden, by Hannibal Caracci ; two incomparable heads by Hol
bein ; the Queene Mother in a miniature, almost as big as the life ;
an exquisite piece of carving, 2 unicorns' homes, &c. This in ye
Closset. 13. I presented my son John to the Queene Mother, who kissed
him, talked with and made extraordinary much of him.
14. I visited my Lady Chancellor, the Marchionesse of Ormond,
and Countesse of Guildford, all of whom we had knowne abroad in
exile. 18. I carried Mr. Spellman, a most ingenious gentleman, grand
child to the learned Sir Henry, to my Lord Mordaunt, to whom I
had recommended him as Secretary.
22. The marriage of ye Chancellor's daughter being now newly
owned, I went to see her, she being Sir Richd. Browne's intimate ac
quaintance when she waited on the Princesse of Orange ; she was
now at her father's at Worcester House in the Strand. We all kiss'd
her hand, as did also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) and Coun
tesse of Northumberland. This was a strange change — can it succeed
well ! — I spent the evening at St. James's, whither the Princesse Hen
rietta was retir'd during the fatal sicknesse of her sister the Princesse
of Orange, now come over to salute ye King her brother. The Prin
cesse gave my wife an extraordinary compliment and gracious accept-
* The King's Household used to be supplied with corn and cattle from the different Counties ;
and oxen being sent up, pasture grounds of the King near town were allotted for them : amongst
these were lands at Deptford and Tottenham Court, which were under the direction of the Lord
"Steward and Board of Green Cloth. Sir Richard Browne had the keeping of the lands at Dept
ford.

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One Loader on Ardcer- Smith anew so rich as tr> build, on
house in the Streete. with Gardens, Orangettes, Canals k other
magndicrnec on a Lea.te.his /other was or' the same trade
an Anabaptist: / .I.IC. I

j3rot

Fei/<{

ii increase, of Buildings may be seene. that the Towne is
an? become neere as bio a.r Bristoil .
<}!sch was no*' built j£*J&ff£.-
i-fital made ior Sea mens IVidowcs. was built by the Trinity
vka. piece of Land given to that Charitable Work by SLEicfrJr'
& kit Daughter M™£uelgn .
ltd House neere the 'ITuzmes was built bp SfHenri/e tiattAen
¦ <*' the L'leete during the Dutch Ware- 1665 tire, upon a Lease
Gvwne to John, B'uelgn £• JTJLSro wnc . as alro the rest of
h Buildings . as tar as #..ter Sluce. / .LE. I

learned .

Ministers of this Parish were be/ore the Rebellion
DrPagc, DrValerUint X.
During tlit Rebellion* >
MTMalorg a quiet presbyter
Alter the Kings Restoration D'iheton ¦ a V
man & M.'Holderi . a lern 'd man . I J.E. I

A Sixde of Perchcr- AnC ithr^ .

I I  IIHIMIIM1 miMillllWllllMlH wwudnmiawirfiia ~~

full, charitable

tJJ/„//.-n ,., .1 i;.M-ti

1660.] 329
ance, for the « Character" she had presented her the day before, and
which was afterwards printed.
21. This day died the Princesse of Orange, of ye small pox, wch
wholy alter'd ye face and gallantry of the whole Court.
25. Preached at the Abbey Dr. Earle, Cleark of his Maties Closet
and my deare friend, now Deane of Westminster, on 2 Luke 13. 14.
condoling the breaehe made in the publiq joy by the lamented death
of ye Princesse.
30. I din'd at Court with Mr. Crane, Cleark of ye Greene Cloth.
31. 1 gave God thankes for his many signal mercies to my selfe,
Church and Nation, this wonderfull yeare.
1661. 2 Jan. The Queene Mother, with ye Princesse Henrietta,
began her journey to Portsmouth, in order to her returne into France.
5. I visited my Lord Chancellor Clarendon, wh whom I had ben
well acquainted abroad.
6. Dr. Allestree preach'd at ye Abby, after which 4 Bishops were
consecrated, Hereford, Norwich ....
This night was suppress'd a bloudy insurrection of some Fifth* Mo
narchy enthusiasts. Some of them were examin'd at the Council the
next day, but could say nothing to extenuate their madnesse and un
warrantable zeale.
I was now chosen (and nominated by his' Majestie for one of ye
Council) by suffrage of the rest of ye Members, a Fellow of yK Philo
sophic Society now meeting at Gressham College, where was an as
sembly of divers learned gentlemen. This being the first meeting since
the King's return ; but it had ben begun some yeares before at Oxford,
and was continued with interruption here in London during the Re
bellion. There was another rising of ye Phanatics, in which some were slaine.
16. I went to ye Philosophic Club, where was examin'd ye Torri
cellian experiment. I presented my Circle of Mechanical Trades, and
had recommended to me ye publishing what I had written of Chalco
graphy. 25. After divers yeares since I had seen any play, I went to see acted
" The Scornful Lady," at a new Theater in Lincoln's Inn Fields.
vol. i. 2 v

330 [i66i-
30 Was the first solemn fast and day of humiliation to deplore V
sinns which so long had provok'd God against this afflicted church and
people, order'd by Parliament to be annually celebrated to expiate the
guilt of y1 execrable murder of the late King.
' This dav (O the stupendious and inscrutable judgments of God !)
were the carcasses of those arch rebells Cromwell, Bradshaw the Judge
who condemn'd his Majestie, and Ireton, sonn-in-law to y° Usurper,
dragg'd out of their superb tombs in Westminster among the Kings,
to Tyburne, and hang'd on the gallows there from 9 in ye morning till
6 at night, and then buried under that fatal and ignominious monument
in a deepe pitt ; thousands of people who had seene them in all their
their pride being spectators. Looke back at Nov. 22, 1658 *, [Oliver's
funeral,] and be astonish'd! and feare God and honor yb King; but
meddle not with them who are given to change !
6 Feb. To London to our Society, where I gave notice of ye visit
of ,ye Danish Ambassador Extraordinary, and was ordered to return
him their acceptance of that honour, and to invite him the next
meeting day.
10. Dr. Baldero preach'd at Ely House, on 6 Matthew v. 33. of
seeking early the kingdome of God ; after sermon yK Bishop (Dr.
Wren) gave us the blessing very pontifically.
13 Feb. I conducted the Danish Ambassador to. our meeting at
Gressham College, where were shew'd him divers experiments in vacuo,
and other curiosities.
21. Prince Rupert first shewed me how to grave in Mezzo Tinto.
26. I went to Lord Mordaunt's at Parson's Green •[.
27- Ash Wednesday. Preached before the King ye Bishop of Lon
don (Dr. Sheldon) on 18 Matt. 25. concerning charity & forgivenesse.
8 March. I went to my Lord Chancellor's, and deliver'd to him yK
state Of my concemement at Says Court.

* P. 315.
t This house remained in the family till 17. . , when the Earl of Peterboro' sold it to Mr.
Heaviside, who a few years after sold it to Mr. Merrick, an army agent j he pulled down the old
house, and built the n"ew one, now standing there (1816).

1661.J 331
9. I went with that excellent person and philosopher Sr Rob*.
Murray, to visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsey, and saw divers effects of the
Eolipile for weighing aire.
13. I went to Lambeth with Sr R. Browne's pretence to ye War-
denship of Merton Coll. Oxford, to which, as having ben about 40
years before a student of that house, he was elected by the votes of
every Fellow except one ; but ye Statutes of ye house being so that
unlesse every Fellow agree, ye election devolves to ye Visitor, who is
ye Archbishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon^), his Grace gave his nomina
tion to Sir T. Clayton, resident there and the Physick Professor ; for
which I was not at all displeas'd, because, tho' Sir Richd miss'd it by
much ingratitude and wrong of ye Archbishop (Clayton being no
Fellow), yet it would have hinder'd Sir Richd from attending at Court
to settle his greater concernes, and so have prejudic'd me, tho' he was'
much inclin'd to have pass'd his time in a collegiate life/ very unfit for
him at that time, for many reasons. So I tooke leave of his Grace,
who was formerly Ld Treasurer in the reigne of Charles I.
This afternoone Prince Rupert shew'd me with his owne hands ye
new way of graving call'd Mezzo Tinto, which afterwards by his per
mission I publish'd in my History of Chalcography ; this set so many
artists on worke, that they soone ariv'd to y* perfection it is since come,
emulating the tenderest miniatures.
Our Society now gave in my relation of ye Pic of Teneriffe in the
Greate Canaries, to be added to more queries concerning divers natural
things reported of that Island.
1 return'd home with my cousin Tuke, now going for France, as sent
by his Ma<y, to condole the death of that greate minister and politican
Card1. Mazarine.
29. Dr. Heylin (author of yK Geography) preach'd at ye Abby, on
5 Cant. 25. concerning Friendship & Charitie ; he was, I think, at this
time quite darke, and so had ben for some yeares.
31. This night his Matie promis'd to make my wife Lady of the
Jewels (a very honourable charge) to the future Queene (but which he
never perform'd).

332 [1661-
1 April. I din'd with that great mathematician and virtuoso Monsr.
Zulichem*, inventor of ye pendule clock, jmd discoverer of the pheno
menon of Saturn's annulus ; he was elected into our Society.
19 To London, and saw ye bathing and rest of ye ceremonies of the
Knights of y* Bath, preparatory to ye Coronation ; it was in f Painted
Chamber, Westmr. I might have receiv'd this honour, but declined it.
The rest of y* ceremonie was in the Chapell at White-hall, when their
swords being laid on y* altar, the Bishop deliver'd them.
22. Was ye splendid cavalcade of his Matie from ye Tower of London
to White-hall, when I saw him in the Banquetting House create 6
Earls, and as many Barons, viz.
Edward Lord Hide f , Lord Chancellor, Earle of Clarendon ; sup
ported by ye Earles of Northumberland and Sussex ; yc Earle of Bedford
carried the cap and coronet, the Earle of Warwick the sword, the Earle
of Newport the mantle.
Next, was Capel, created Earle of Essex;
Brudenell, - - - Cardigan;
Valentia, - - - Anglesea;
Green vill, - - - Bath ; and
Howard, Earle of Carlisle.
The Barons were : Denzill Holies ; Cornwallis ; Booth ; Townsend ;
Cooper ; Crew ; who were all led up by severall Peers, with Garter and
Officers of Armes before them ; when, after obedience on their severall
approches to ye Throne, their patents were presented by Garter King
at Armes, which being receiv'd by ye Lord Chamberlaine and deliver'd
to his Majesty, and by him to the Secretary of State, were read and then
 ,  ^ ¦ i . . . , , — ___^
* See hereafter, under 1664, July.
f In 1656 or 1657, attempts were made to remove the Chancellor (Hyde), by accusing him of
betraying his Majesty's Counsels, and holding correspondence with Cromwell ; but these allega
tions were so trivial and frivolous, that they manifestly appeared to be nothing but the effects of
malice against him, and therefore produced the contrary effects to those which some desired, and
strengthened the King's kindness to him ; as giving him just occasion to believe that these
suggestions against him proceeded all from one and the same cause, namely, from the ambition
which some people had to enter in his room into the first trust of his Majesty's affairs, if once
they could remove him from his station. Life of King James II. from his own papers, 1816,
vol. I. p. 274.

1661.] 333
againe deliver'd to his Matie, and by him to the severall Lords created ;
they were then rob'd, their coronets and collers put on by his Mat!e,
and they were plac'd in rank on both sides the State and Throne, but
the Barons put off their caps and circles and held them in their hands,
the Earles keeping on their coronets as cousins to the King.
I spent the rest of ye evening in seeing the severall areh-triumphals
built in ye streetes at severall eminent places thro' which his Majesty
was next day to passe, some of which, tho' temporary, and to stand
but one yeare, were of good invention and architecture, with inscriptions.
23. Was the Coronation of his Majesty Charles the Second in ye
Abby Church of Westminster ; at all which ceremonie I was present.
The King and all his Nobility went to yc Tower, I accompanying my
Lord Viscount Mordaunt part of the way ; this was on Sunday the 22d,
but indeede his Matie went not til early this morning, and proceeded
from thence to Westm1 in this order * :
First went the Duke of York's Horse Guards. Messengers of ye
Chamber. 136 Esqrs to ye Knights of the Bath, each of whom had
two, most richly habited. The Knight Harbinger. Serjeant Porter.
Sewers of the Chamber. Quarter Waiters. Six Clearks of Chancery.
Clearke of the Signet. Clearke of the Privy Seale. Clearks of the
Council, of the Parliament, and of the Crowne. Chaplaines in ordi
nary having dignities 10. Kings Advocats and Remembrancer. Coun
cil at Law. Mrs of the Chancery. Puisne Serjeants. Kings Attorney
and Solicitor. Kings eldest Serjeant. Secretaries of the French and
Latine tongue. Gent. Ushers, Daily Waiters, Sewers, Carvers, and
Cupbearers in ordinary. Esquires of the Body 4. Masters of stand
ing offices being no Councellors, viz. of ye Tents, Revels, Ceremonies,
Armorie, Wardrobe, Ordnance, Requests. Chamberlaine of the Ex
chequer. Barons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord Chiefe Baron.
Lord C. Justice of the Common Pleas. Master of the Rolls. Lord
C. Justice of England. Trumpets. Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber.
Knights of the Bath, 68, in crimson robes exceeding rich and the noblest

* There is a full account of this Ceremony, with fine Sculptures, in a folio volume, published
by John Ogilby 1662.

334 [16*6*1.
shew of y* whole cavalcade, his Matie excepted. Knt. Marshall. Tfeas1-
of the Chamber. Mr of the Jewells. Lords of the Privy Council.
Comptroller of the Household. Treasurer of the Household. Trum
pets. Serjeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at Armes. Barons. Two
Pursuivants at Armes. Viscounts. Two Heraulds. Earles. Lord
Chamberlaine of the Household. Two Heraulds. Marquisses. Dukes.
Heralds Clarencieux and Norroy. Lord Chancellor. Lord High
Steward of England. Two persons representing ye Dukes of Nor^
mandy and Aquitain, viz. Sir Richd Fanshawe and Sr Herbert Price,
in fantastiq habits of the time. Gentlemen Ushers. Garfef. Lord
Maior of London. The Duke of York alone (ye rest by two's). Lord
High Constable of England. Lord Great Chamberlaine of England.'
The Sword borne by yu Earle Marshal of England. The KING in
royal robes and equipage. Afterwards follow'd Equerries, Footemen,
Gent. Pensioners. Master of the Horse leading a horse richly capa-
rlson'd. Vice Chamberlaine. Captain of the Pensioners. Captain
of the Guard. The Guard. The Horse Guard, The Troope of Vo
lunteers with many other Officers and Gentlemen.
This magnificent traine on horseback, as rich as embrodery, velvet,'
cloth of gold and silver, and Jewells, could make them and their pransing
horses, proceeded thro' the streetes strew'd with flowers, houses hung
with rich tapessry, windoes and balconies full of ladies ; the London
Militia lining the ways, and the severall Companies with their banners
and loud musiq rank'd in their orders; the fountaines running wine,
bells ringing, with speeches made at the severall triumphal arches ; at
that of the^ Temple Barr (neere which I stood) ye Lord Maior was
receiv'd by the Bayliff of Westminster, who in a scarlet robe made a
speech. Thence with joyful acclamations his Matie passed to Whitehall.
Bonfires at night.
The next day, being St. George's, he went by water to Westmr Abby.
When his Matie was enter'd, the Deane and Prebendaries brought all
the regalia, and deliver'd them to severall Noblemen to beare before the
King, who met them at the West dore of ye Church singing an an
them, to ye Quire. Then came the Peers in their robes, and coronets
in their hands, til his Ma,ie was plac'd in a throne elevated before ye

1661.] 335
altar. Then the Bishop of London (ye Archbishop of Canterbury
being sick) went to every side of ye throne to present the King to the
People, asking if they would have him for their King and do him
homage ; at this they shouted 4 times God save King Charles the
Second ! Then an anthem was sung. Then his Matie attended by 3 ¦
Bishops went up to the altar, and he offer'd a pall and a pound of gold.
Afterwards he sate downe in another chaire during yc sermon, which
Was preach'd by Dr. Morley then Bishop of Worcester. After sermon
the King tooke his oath before the altar to maintain the Religion,
Magna Charta, and Laws of the Land. The hymn Veni S. Sp. fol
low'd, and then the Litany by 2 Bishops. Then the Archbishop of
Canterbury, present but much indispos'd and weake, said Lift up
your hearts; at which the King rose up and put off his robes and
upper garments, and was in a wastcoate so opened in divers places that
ye Archb'p might commodiously anoint him, first in the palmes of his
hands, when an anthem was sung and a prayer read ; then his breast
and twixt the shoulders, bending of both armes, and lastly on the
crowne of ye head, with apposite hymns and prayers at each anoynting ;
this don, the Deane clos'd and button'd up ye wastcoate. Then was a
coyfe put on, and ye cobbium, syndon or dalmatic, and over this a
supertunic of cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of ye same, spurrs,
and the sword, a prayer being first said over it by the Archbishop on
yk altar before 'twas girt on by the Lord Chamberlaine. Then the
armill, mantle, &c. Then the Archbishop plac'd the crowne imperial
on the altar, pray'd over it, and set it on his Maties head, at which all
ye Peers put on their coronets. Anthems and rare musiq, with lutes,
viols, trumpets, organs, and voices, were then heard, and the Arch
bishop put a ring on his Maties finger. The King next offer'd his
sword on the altar, which being redeemed was drawn and borne
before him. Then yc Archbishop deliver'd him ye sceptre with the
dove in one hand, and in the other the sceptre with the globe. Then
ye King kneeling, yfc Archbishop pronounc'd the blessing. The King
then ascending againe his Royal Throne, whilst Te Deum was singing,
all the Peeres did their homage, by every one touching his crowne.
The Archbishop and rest of the Bishops first kissing the King; who
receiv'd ye holy sacrament, and so disrob'd, yet with the crowne impe-

336 [i66i.
rial on his head, and accompanied with all the Nobility in the former
order, he went on foote upon blew cloth, which was spread and reach'd
from ye West dore of ye Abby to Westmr stayres, when he tooke water
in a triumphal barge to Whitehall, where was extraordinary feasting.
24. I presented his Matie with his Panegyric * in ye Privy Cham
ber, which he was pleas'd to accept most graciously ; I gave copies to
the Lord Chancellor and most of the Noblemen who came to me for it.
I din'd at ye Marques of Ormonds, where was a magnificent feaste and
many greate persons.
1 May. I went to Hide Park to take ye aire, where was his Majesty
and an innumerable appearance of gallants and rich coaches, being now
a time of universal festivitie and joy.
2. I had audience of my Lord Chancellor about my title to Says
Court. 3. I went to see ye wonderfull engine for weaving silk stockings,
said to have ben ye invention of an Oxford scholler 40 years since ;
and I return'd by Fromantil's ye famous clock-maker to see some pen-
dules, Monsr Zulichem being with us.
This evening I was with my Lord Brouncker, Sr Rob4 Murray, Sr
Pa. Neill, Monsr Zulichem, and Mr. Bull (all of them of our Society
and excellent mathematicians), to shew his Matie, who was present,
Saturn's annulus as some thought, but as Zulichem affirm'd with his
Balleus (as that learned gentleman had publish'd), very neere eclips'd
by ye Moon, neere ye Mons Porphyritis; also Jupiter and Satelites,
thro' his Majesty's great telescope, drawing 35 foote ; on which were
divers discourses.
8 May. His Ma(ie rod in state, with his imperial crowne on, and
all the Peeres in their robes, in great pomp to ye Parliament now
newly chosen (ye old one being dissolv'd) ; and that evening declar'd in
Council his intention to marry the Infanta of Portugal.
9. At Sir Rob. Murray's, where I met Dr. Wallis, Professor of
Geometry in Oxon, where was discourse of severall mathematical!
subjects. .

* Viz. a Poem upon his Majesty's Coronation the 33 of April 1661, being St. George's Day.

1661.] 337
11. My wife presented to his Majesty the Madona she had copied
in miniature from P. Oliver's painting after Raphael, which she
wrought with extraordinary pains and judgment. The King was infi
nitely pleas'd with it, and caus'd it to be plac'd in his cabinet amongst
his best paintings.
13. I heard and saw such exercises at ye election of Scholars at
Westm1 School to be sent to ye University, in Latin, Greek, Hebrew,
and Arabic, in themes and extemporary -verses, as wonderfully asto
nish'd me in such youths, with such readiness and witt, some of them
not above 12 or 13 years Of age. Pity it is that what they attaine here
so ripely, they either not retain or do not improve more considerably
when they come to be men, tho' many of them do ; and no lesse is to be
blamed their odd pronouncing of Latine, so that out of England none
were able to understand or endure it. The Examinants or Posers were,
Dr. Duport, Greek Professor at Cambridge ; Dr. Fell, Deane of Christ
Church Oxon ; Dr. Pierson, Dr. Alestree Deane of Westmr, and any
that would.
14 May. His Majesty was pleas'd to discourse with me concerning
several particulars relating to our Society, and ye planet Saturn, &c.
as he sat at supper in the withdrawing room to his bed-chamber.
16. I din'd with Mr. Garmus, the Resident from Hamburgh, who
continu'd his feast neere 9 whole hours, according to the custome of
his country, tho' there was no greate excesse of drinking, no man
being oblig'd to take more than he lik'd.
22. The Scotch Covenant was burnt by the common hangman in
divers places in London. Oh prodigious change !
29. This was the first Anniversarie appointed by Act of Parliament
to be observed as a day of General Thanksgiving for ye miraculous Re-
stauration of his Majesty : our Vicar preaching ort 118 Psalm 24. re
quiring us to be thankful & rejoice, as indeede we had cause.
4 June. Came Sir Cha. Harbord, his Majesties surveyor, to take
an account of what grounds I challeng'd at Says Court.
27. I saw the Portugal Ambassador at dinner with his Mat,e in
state, where was excellent musiq.
vol. 1. 2 x

338 lim-
2 July. I went to see the New Spring Garden at Lambeth, a pretty
contriv'd plantation.
19. We tried our Diving Bell or engine in ye water-dock at Dept
ford, in which our Curator continu'd half an hour under water; it was
made of cast lead, let down with a strong cable.
August 3. Came my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Ma'ies house
hold, to visite me.
9. I tried several experiments on ye sensitive plant and hunjilis,
which contracted with the least touch of ye sun thro' a burning glassy,
tho' it rises and opens onely when it shines on it.
I first saw ye famous Queen Pine* brought from Barbados and pre
sented to his Matie ; but the first that were ever seen in England were
those sent to Cromwell foure years since.
I din'd at Mr. Palmer's f in Gray's Inn, whose curiosity excell'd in
clocks and pendules, especialy one that had innumerable motions, and
plaied 9 or 10 tunes on the bells very finely, some of them set in parts,
which was very harmonious. It was wound up but once in a quarter.
He had also good telescopes and mathematical instruments, choice pic
tures, and other curiosities. Thence we went to that famous moun
tebank Jo. Punteus.
Sir Kenelme Digby presented every one of us his Discourse of the
Vegetation of Plants ; and Mr. Henshaw, his History of Salt Petre and
Gunpowder. I assisted him to procure his place of French Secretary
to the King, which he purchas'd of Sr Hen. De Vic.
I went to that famous physitian Sir Fr. Prujean, who shew'd me
his laboratorie, his work-house for turning, and other mechanics ;
also many excellent pictures, especialy ye Magdalen of Caracci ; and
some incomparable paisages done in distemper ; he plaied to me likewise
on ye polythore, an instrument having something of the harp, lute, the
orbo, &c. It was a sweete instrument, by none known in England, or
describ'd by any author, nor us'd but by this skilfull and learned Doctor.
* At Kensington Palace is a curious picture of King Charles receiving a pine apple from, his
gardener Mr. Rose, who is presenting it on his knees, See hereafter., under 1668, August.
, -f See vol. II. p. 89.

1661.] 339
15. I went to Tunbridge Wells, my wife being there for the benefit
of her health. Walking about the solitudes, I greately admired at the
extravagant turnings, insinuations, and growth of certaine birch trees
among the rocks.
13 Sept. I presented my Fumifugium *, dedicated to his Ma**, who
was pleas'd I should publish it by his special commands, being much
gratified with it.
18. This day was read our Petition to his Ma1? for his Royal Grant
authorizing our Society to meet as a Corporation, with several privileges.
An exceedingly sickly, wet autumn.
1 Oct. I sail'd this morning with his Ma'? in one of his yachts (or
pleasure-boats), vessells not known among us til the Dutch E. India
Company presented that curious piece to the King, being very excellent
sailing vessells. It was on a wager betweene his other new pleasure
boate, built frigate like, and one of the Duke of York's ; the wager
100/. ; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend and back. The King
lost it going, the wind being contrary, but sav'd stakes in returning.
There were divers noble persons and lords on board, his Ma'? some
times steering himselfe. His barge and kitchen boate attended. I
brake fast this morning with the King at return in his smaller vessell,
he being pleas'd to take me and onely foure more, who were noblemen,
with him ; but din'd in his yatcht, where we all eate together with his
Ma'?. In this passage he was pleas'd to discourse to me about my
book inveighing against the nuisance of ye smoke of London and pro
posing expedients how by removing those particulars I mention'd f, it
might be reform'd ; commanding me to prepare a Bill against ye next
Session of Parliament, being as he said resolv'd to have something don in
it. Then he discours'd to me of ye improvement of gardens and buildings,
now very rare in England comparatively to other countries. He then
commanded me to draw up the matter of fact happening at the bloudy
encounter which then had newly bappen'd betweene the French and
Spanish Ambassrs neere yfc Tower, contending for precedency, at ye

* This pamphlet having become extremely scarce, was handsomely reprinted for Messrs. White
in Fleet Street, in 4to. in 1772.
f In the Fumifugium before mentioned.

340 [1661.
reception of the Sweeds Ambass1 ; giving me order to consult Sr Wm.
Compton, Master of ye Ordnance, to informe me what he knew of it, and
with hisfavourite Sr Cha. Berkley*, captaine of ye Duke's life guard, then
present with his troope and 3 foote companies ; with some other reflec
tions and instructions, to be prepar'd with a declaration to take off the
reports wch went about of his Mal?s partiality in ye affaire, and of his
officers and spectators rudenesse whilst ye conflict lasted. So I came
home that night, and went next morning to London, where froni ye
Officers of the Tower, Sr Wm Compton, Sr Cha. Berkley, and others
who were attending at this meeting of ye Ambassrs 3 dayes before,
having collected what I could, I drew up a narrative in vindication of
his Ma'y and the carriage of his Officers and standers by. On Thurs
day his Ma'y sent one of the pages of the Back Stayres for me to waite
on him with my papers in his cabinet, where was present only
Sr Henry Bennett f (Privy Purse), when beginning to read to his
Ma'y what I had drawn up, by the time I had read halfe a page, came
in Mr. Secretary Morice with a large paper, desiring to speake with
his Ma'y, who told him he was now very buisy, and therefore order'd
him to come againe some other time ; ye Secretary replied that what he
had in his hand was of extraordinary importance, so the King rose up,
and commanding me to stay, went aside to a corner of the roome with
the Secretary ; after a while the Secretary being dispatch'd, his Ma^
returning to me at the table, a letter was brought him from Madame
out of France ; this he read and then bid me proceede from where I
left off. This I did til I had ended all the narrative, to his Ma'?5
greate satisfaction ; and after I had Inserted one or two more clauses, in
which his Ma(? instructed me, commanded that it should that niffht
be sent to ye Post-house directed to the. Lord Ambassr at Paris (the
Earle of St. Alban's) and then at leasure to prepare him a copy
which he would publish J. This I did, and immediately sent my papers
to the Secretary of State, with his MatJS expresse command of dispatch
ing them that night for France. Before I went out of his Ma1?8 closet,

* Afterwards Earl of Falmouth, who was killed by the side of the Duke of York, in the first
Dutch war. f Afterwards Secretary of State, Earl of Arlington, and Lord Chamberlain.
J The Narrative is reprinted in vol. 11. p. 338.

1661.] 341
he cal'd me back to shew me some ivorie statues, and other curiosities
that I had not seene before.
3. Next evening, being in ye withdrawing roome adjoining the bed
chamber, his Maty espying me came to me from a greate crowde of
noblemen standing neere the fire, and ask'd me if I had don ; and told
me he fear'd it might be a little too sharp, on second thoughts, for he
had that morning spoken with ye French Ambassr, who it seemes had
palliated ye matter and was very tame, and therefore directed me where
I should soften a period or two before it was publish'd (as afterwards it
was *). This night also he spake to me to give him a sight of what was
sent, and to bring it to him in his bed-chamber ; which I did, and re
ceiv'd it againe from him at dinner next day. By Saturday having
finish'd it with all his Ma^8 notes, the King being gon abroad, I sent
ye papers to Sr Hen. Bennett (Privy Purse and a greate favourite), and
slip'd home, being myselfe much indispos'd and harrass'd with going
about, and sitting up to write.
19 Oct. I went to London to visite my Lord of Bristoll, having
first ben with Sir John Denham (his Maties surveyor) to consult with
him about the placing of his palace at Greenewich, which I would have
had built between the river and the Queenes house, so as a large square
cutt should have let in yc Thames like a bay ; but Sir John was for
setting it on piles at the very brink of the water, which I did not as
sent to, and so came away, knowing Sir John to be a better poet than
architect, tho' he had Mr. Webb (Inigo Jones's man) to assist himf.
29. I saw the Lord Maior J passe in his water triumph to West
minster, being the first solemnity of this nature after 20 yeares.
2 Nov. Came Sr Hen. Bennet, since Ld Arlington, to visite me,
and to acquaint me that his Ma1? would do me the honor to come and
see my garden, but it then being late 'twas deferr'd.

* Notwithstanding this positive assertion, it is very extraordinary that it has never been inserted
in any Library or Auction Catalogue that a gentleman of the greatest research (Mr. Bindley) ever
saw. Perhaps it was recalled.
f See p. 346.
+ Sir John Frederick. The pageant for this day was called " London's Triumph, at the
Charges of the Grocers Company. By John Tatham."

342 [1661.
3. One Mr. Breton * preach'd his probation Sermon at our Parish
Church, and indeede made a most excellent discourse on 1 John 29. of
God's free grace to penitents, so that I could not but recommend him
to the patron.
10. In the afternoone preach'd at the Abby Dr. Basire, that greate
travailler, or rather French Apostle, who had ben planting ye Church
of England in divers parts of ye Levant and Asia. He shew'd that ye
Church of England was for purity of doctrine, substance, decency, and
beauty, the most perfect under Heaven ; that England was the very
land of Goshen.
11. I was so idle as to go see a play call'd " Love and Honor f." —
Din'd at Arundel House ; and that evening discours'd with his Majestie
about shipping, in which he was exceeding skilfull.
15. I din'd with ye Duke of Ormond, who told me there were no
moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and that but in one county ;
but it was a mistake that spiders would not live there, only they were
not poysonous. Also that they frequently took salmon with dogs.
16. I presented my Translation of " Naudseus concerning Libra
ries" to my Lord Chancellor, but it was miserably false printed.
17- Dr. Creighton, a Scot, author of the " Florentine Council,"
and a most eloquent man and admirable Grecian, preached on 6 Cant.
13. celebrating the returne and restauration of ye Church and King.
20. At ye Royall Society Sr Wm Petty propos'd divers things for
the improvement of shipping, a versatile keele that should be on hinges,
and concerning sheathing ships with thin lead J.
24. This night his Maty fell into discourse with me concerning
bees, &c.
26. I saw Hamlet Prince of Denmark played, but now the old
t plays began to disgust this refined age, since his Majesties being so long
abroad. 28. I din'd at Chiffinch's house-warming in St. James's Park ; he
was his Ma'ys closet keeper §, and had his new house|full of good pic-
* He obtained the Living.
t A Tragi-Comedy by Sir William Davenant ; the performance appears to have been in the
morning. X Of which see more hereafter., § See vol. II. p, 130.

1661.] 343
tures, &c. There din'd with us Russell, Popish Bishop of Cape
Verde, who was sent out to negotiate his Maties match with ye Infanta
of Portugal after ye Ambassr was return'd.
29. I din'd at the Countesse of Peterborows, and went that evening
to Parsons Greene with my Ld Mordaunt, with whom I staid that night.
1 Dec. I went to take leave of my Lo. Peterborow going now to
Tangier, which was to be delivered to the English on the match with
Portugal. 3. By universal suffrage of our philosophic assembly an order was
made and register'd that I should receive their public thanks for the
honourable mention I made of them by the name of Royal Society in
my Epistle dedicatory to the Lord Chancellor before my Traduction of
Naudeus. Too great an honor for a trifle.
4. I had much discourse with ye Duke of York concerning strange
cures, he affirmed of a woman who swallow'd a whole ear of barley,.
which work'd out at her side. I told him of yc knife swallow'd * and
ye pins.
I took leave of the Bishop of Cape Verde now going in the Fleet
to bring over our new Queene.
7- I din'd at Arundel House, ye day when the greate contest in
Parliament was concerning the restoring the Duke of Norfolk; however
'twas carried for him. I also presented my little trifle of Sumptuary
Laws, intitl'd " Tyrannus" [or " The Mode."] f
14. I saw otter hunting with the King, and killed one.
16. 1 saw a French Comedy acted at White-hall.
20. The Bishop of Glocester J preached at the Abby at ye funeral
of ye Bishop of Hereford, brother to ye Duke of Albemarle. It was a
decent solemnity. There was a silver mitre with episcopal robes, born
by ye Herauld before yc herse, which was follow'd by the Duke his
brother, and all the Bishops with divers noblemen.

* This refers to the Dutchman, p. IS, and to an extraordinary case, contained in a " mira
culous cure of the Prussian Swallow Knife, &c. by Dan. Lakin, P. C." quarto, London, 1642,
with a wood cut representing the object himself and the size of the knife.
f Reprinted in vol. II. p. 309, f Dr. William Nicholson.

344 [t 662.
23. I heard an Italian play and sing to the guittar wth extraordi
nary skill before the Duke.
1662 1 Jan. I went to London, invited to the solemn foolerie of
the Prince de la Grange at Lincoln's Inn, where came the King, Duke,
&c. It began with a grand masque, and a formal pleading before the
mock Princes, Grandees, Nobles, and Knights of the Sunn. He had
his Lord Chancellor, Chamberlain, Treasurer, and other Royal Offi
cers, gloriously clad and attended. It ended in a magnificent banquet.
One Mr. Lort was the young spark who maintaln'd the pageantry.
6 Jan. This evening, according to costome, his Majesty open'd the
revells of that night by throwing the dice himselfe in the privy cham
ber, where was a table set on purpose, and lost his 100Z. (The yeare
before he won 1500Z.) The ladies also plaied very deepe. I came
away when the Duke of Ormond had won about 10002. and left them
still at passage, cards, &c. At other tables, both there and at ye
Groom-porter's, observing the wicked folly and monstrous excesse of
passion amongst some loosers ; sorry I am that such a wretched cos-
tome as play to that excesse should be countenanc'd in a Court which
ought to be an example of virtue to the rest of the kingdome.
9. I saw acted " The 3d Part of the Siege of Rhodes." In this
acted ye faire and famous comedian call'd Roxalana from ye part she
perform'd ; and I think it was the last, she being taken to be the Earle
of Oxford's Misse (as at this time they began to call lewd women.) It
was in recitativa musiq.
10. Being call'd into his Ma*ys closet when Mr. Cooper, ye rare
limner, was crayoning of the King's face and bead, to make the
stamps by for the new mill'd money now contriving, I had the 'honour
to hold the candle whilst it was doing, he choosing the night and can
dle-light for ye better finding out the shadows. During this his Ma*?
discours'd with me on several things relating to painting and graving.
11 Jan. I din'd at Arundel House, where I heard excellent musiq
perform'd by the ablest masters both French and English, on theorbos,
viols, organs, and voices, as an exercise against the coming of ye
Queene, purposely compos'd for her chapell. Afterwards my Lord
Aubignie (her Majesty's Almoner to be) shew'd us his elegant lodging

1662.] 345
and his wheele-chaire for ease and motion, with divers other curiosities;
especialy a kind of artificial glasse or purcelan adorn'd with relievos
of paste, hard and beautifull. Lord Aubignie (brother to the Duke
of Lennox) was a person of good sense, but wholly abandon'd to ease
and effeminacy.
I receiv'd of Sir Peter Ball, the Queene's Attorney, a draught of
an Act against the nuisance of ye smoke of London, to be reform'd by
removing severall trades which are the cause of it, and indanger the
health of the King and his people. It was to have ben offer'd to ye
Parliament as his Majestie commanded.
12. At St. James's Chapell preach'd, or rather harangu'd, the
famous orator Monsr Morus*, in French. There was present the
King, Duke, French Ambassr, Lo. Aubignie, Earle of Bristol, and
a world of Roman Catholics, drawne thither to hear this eloquent
Protestant. 15 Jan. There was a general fast thro ye whole nation, and now
celebrated at London, to avert God's heavy judgments on this land.
There had fallen greate raine without any frost or seasonable cold, not
only in England, but in Sweden, and the most Northern parts, being
here neere as warme as at midsommer in some yeares.
This solemn fast was held for yc House of Commons at St. Marga
rets. Dr. Reeves, Dean of Windsor, preach'd on 7 Joshua 12.
shewing how ye neglect of exacting justice on offenders (by which he
insinuated such of the old King's murderers as were yet reprieved and
in ye Tower) was a maine cause of God's punishing a land. He brought
in that of the Gibeonites as well as Achan and others, concluding with
an eulogie of the Parliament for their loyaltie in restoring yfc Bishops
and Cleargie and vindicating the Church from sacrilege.
16. Having notice of ye Duke of York's intention to visit my poore
habitation and garden this day, I return'd, when he was pleas'd to do
me that honor of his owne accord, and to stay some time viewing such
things as I had to entertaine his curiosity. Afterwards he caus'd me
* Probably the famous Alexander Morus (the antagonist of Milton) who was here in the year
1662. He was a very eloquent and much-admired preacher.
VOL. I. 2 Y

346 < [1662.
to dine with him at the Treasurer of ye Navy's house, and to sit with
him cover'd at ye same table.. There were with his Highness the
Duke of Ormond and several lords. Then they view'd some of my
grounds about a project for a receptacle for ships to be moor'd in*, wch
was laied aside as a fancy of Sr Nich8 Crisp. After this I accompanied
the Duke to an East India vessell that lay at Blackwall, where we
had entertainment of several curiosities. Amongst other spirituous
drinks, as punch, &c. they gave us Canarie that had ben carried to and
brought from ye Indies, wch was indeede incomparably good. I re
turn'd to London with his highnesse. This night was acted before his
Ma'y " The Widow," a lewd play.
18. I came home to be private a little, not at all affecting the life
and hurry of Court.
24. His Ma*y entertain'd me with his intentions of building his
Palace of Greenewich f, and quite demolishing the old one ; on wch I
declar'd my thoughts.
25. I dined with the Trinity Company at their house, that Corpo*
ration being by charter fixed at Deptford.
3 February. I went to Chelsey to see Sl Arthur Gorge's house.
11. I saw a comedy acted before ye Dutchesse of York at the Cock
pit. The King was not at it.
17- I went with my Lord of Bristol to see his house at Wimbledon J,
newly bought of ye Queene Mother, to help contrive the garden after
the moderne. It is a delicious place for prospect and ye thicketts, but
the soile cold and weeping clay. Returned that evening with Sr Henry
Bennet; This night was buried in Westminster Abby the Queene 6f Bohemia §,
after all her sorrows and afflictions being come to die in the arms of her
nephew the King: also this night and the next day fell such a storm of
* P. 296. t P- 341.
% It came afterwards to Sarah Duchess of Marlborough, who built a new house there, burnt
down a few years since. Now belonging to Earl Spencer, who has built a smaller house." There
are two scarce and curious views of the old house, engraved by Winstanley.
§ Elizabeth Electress Palatine, daughter of James I. a woman of excellent understanding and
most amiable disposition.

1662.] 347
hail, thunder and lightning, as never was seene the like in any man's
memorie, especialy the tempest of wind, being South West, which sub
verted besides huge trees, many houses, innumerable chimnies (amongst
others that of my parlour at Says Court), and made such havoc at land
and sea that severall perish'd on both. Divers lamentable fires were
also kindl'd at this time, so exceedingly was God's hand against this
ungrateful and vicious Nation and Court.
20. I return'd home to repaire my house, miserably shatter'd by
ye late tempest.
March 24. I returned home wh my whole family, which had ben
most part of the winter since October at London in lodgings neere the
Abby of Westminster.
6 April. Being of the Vestry, in the afternoone we order'd that the
Communion Table should be set as usual altar- wise, with a decent raile
before It, as before the Rebellion.
17 April. The young Marquis of Argyle, whose turbulent father
was executed in Scotland, came to see my garden. He seem'd a man
of parts.
7 May. I waited on Prince Rupert to our Assembly, where were
tried severall experiments in Mr. Boyle's vacuum. A man thrusting in
his arme upon exhaustion of ye aire had his flesh immediately swelled
so as the bloud was neare bursting the veines : he drawing it oute we
found it all speckled.
14. To London, being chosen one of the Commlssls for reforming
£he buildings, wayes, streetes, and incumbrances, and regulating the
hackney coaches in the Citty of London, taking my oath before my
Lord Chancellor, and then went to his Matys Surveyor's office in Scot
land Yard about naming and establishing officers, adjourning till ye
16th, when I went to view how St. Martin's Lane might be made more
passable into ye Strand. There were divers Gent" of quality in this
Commission. 25. I went this evening to London, in order to our journey to
Hampton Court to see the new Queene, who having landed at Ports
mouth had ben married to ye King a weeke before by the Bishop of
London.

348 D662,
30. The Queene ariv'd with a traine of Portuguese ladies in their
monstrous fardingals or guard-infantas, their complexions olivader*
and sufficiently unagreeable. Her Ma* in the same habit, her foretop
long and turn'd aside very strangely. She was yet of the handsomest
countenance of all ye rest, and tho' low of stature pretily shaped, lan
guishing and excellent eyes, her teeth wronging her mouth by sticking
a little too far out ; for the rest lovely enough.
31. I saw the Queene at dinner ; the Judges came to compliment
her arival, and after them the Duke of Ormond brought me to kisse
her hand.
2 June. The Lord Mayor and Aid" made their addresses to the
Queene, presenting her ^g.1000 in gold. Now saw I her Portuguese
ladies, and the Guarda-damas or Mother of her maids f, and the old
Knight, a lock of whose haire quite cover'd the rest of his bald pate,
bound on by a thred, very oddly. I saw the rich gondola sent to his*
Ma*y from the State of Venice ; but it was not comparable for swift-
nesse to our common wherries, tho' manag'd by Venetians.
4. Went to visite the Earle of Bristoll at Wimbledon.
8 June. I saw her Ma1? at supper privately in her bed-chamber.
9. I heard the Queene's Portugal musiq, consisting of pipes, harps,
and very ill voices.
Hampton Court is as noble and uniforme a pile, and as capacious as
any Gotiq architecture can have made it. There is incomparable furni
ture in it, especialy hangings design'd by Raphael, very rich with gold;
also many rare pictures, especialy the Ccesarian Triumphs of Andr.
Mantegna, formerly the Duke of Mantua's ; of the tapessrys I believe
the world can shew nothing nobler of the kind than the storys of
Abraham and Tobit. The gallery of homes is very particular for the
vast beames of staggs, elks, antelopes, &c. The Queene's bed was an
embrodery of silver on crimson velvet, and cost ^.8000, being a pre-

* Of a dark olive complexion. It has been noticed in other accounts that the Queen's Portuguese
Ladies of Honour who came over with her were uncommonly ill-favoured and disagreeable in their
appearance. See Faithom's curious print of her Majesty in the costume here described.
t A lady had this title in theTeign of King George III.

1662.] 349
sent made by ye States of Holland when his Ma* returned, and had for
merly ben given by them to our King's sister y° Princesse of Orange,
and being bought of her againe was now presented to ye King. The
greate looking- glasse and toilet of beaten and massive gold was given
by the Queene Mother. The Queene brought over with her from Por
tugal such Indian cabinets as had never before ben seene here. The
greate hall is a most magnificent roome. The chapell-roof excellently
fretted and gilt. I was also curious to visite the wardrobe and tents and
other furniture of state. The park formerly a flat naked piece of ground,
now planted with sweete rows of lime trees ; and the canall for water
now neere perfected ; also the hare park. In ye garden is a rich and
noble fountaine, with syrens, statues, &c. cast in copper by Fanelli,
but no plenty of water. The cradle-walk of home beame in yc garden
is, for the perplexed twining of the trees, very observable. There is
a parterre wch they call Paradise, in wch is a pretty banquetting-house
set over a cave or cellar. All these gardens might be exceedingly im
proved, as being too narrow for such a palace.
10. I returned to London, and presented my History of Chalco-
graphie (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our Society.
19 June. I went to Alburv, to visite Mr. Hen. Howard soone after
he had procured ye dukedom to be restor'd. This gentleman had now
compounded a debt of ^.200,000, contracted by his grandfather. I
was much oblig'd to that greate virtuoso, and to this young gentleman,
with whom I staied a fortnight.
2 July. We hunted and kill'd a buck in yfc park, Mr. Howard in
viting most of the gentlemen of the country neere him.
3. My wife met me at Woodcott whither Mr. Howard accompanied
me to see my son John, who had ben much brought up amongst Mr.
Howard's children at Arundel House, 'til for feare of their perverting
him in the Catholic religion, 1 was forced to take him home.
8. To London, to take leave of ye Duke and Dutchesse of Ormond,
going then into Ireland with an extraordinary retinue.
13. Spent some time with the Ld Chancellor, where I had discourse
wh my Lord Willoughby, Governor of Barbados, concerning divers par
ticulars of that colonic

350 [1662.
28. His Ma^ going to sea to meet the Queene Mother, now coming
againe for England, met with such ill weather as greately endanger'd
him. I went to Greenewich, to wait on the Queene now landed.
30. To London, where was a meeting about Charitable Uses, and
particularly to enquire how the Citty had dispos'd of the revenues of
¦ Gressham College, and why the salaries of the professors there were no
better improv'd. I was on this commission, with divers Bishops and
Lords of the Council, but little was the progresse we could make.
31. I sate with ye Commiss" about reforming the buildings and
streetes of London, and we ordered the paving of the way from St.
James's North, which was a quagmire, and also of the Hay-market
about Piqudillo [Piccadilly], and agreed upon instructions to be printed
and published for the better keeping the streetes cleane.
1 Aug. Mr. H. Howard, his brothers Charles, Edward, Bernard,
Philip * now ye Queens Almoner, (all brothers of the ye Duke of Nor
folk still in Italy) came with a greate traine and din'd with me; Mr. H.
Howard leaving with me his eldest and youngest sons Henry and
Thomas for 3 or 4 days, my son John having ben sometime bred up
in their fathers house.
4. Came to see me the old Countesse of Devonshire f, with that
excellent and worthy person, my Lord, her sonn, from Rowhampton.
5. To London, and next day to Hampton Court about my purchase,
and took leave of Sr R. Fanshawe now going Ambassador to Portugal.
13. Our Charter being now passed under the broad seale, consti
tuting us a Corporation under the name of The Royal Society for the
improvement of naturall knowledge by experiment, was this day read,
and was all that was done 'this afternoone, being very large.
14. I sat on the commission for Charitable Uses, the Lord Maior
and others of the Mercers Company being summon'd to answer some

* Since Cardinal at Rome.
t Christian Countess of Devonshire. She was of considerable celebrity for her devotion, hospi
tality, her great care in the management of her son's affairs, and as a patroness of the wits of the
age who frequently met at her house : also for her loyalty and correspondence to promote the
Restoration. King Charles II. frequently visited her at this place with the Queen Mother and
the Royal Family. There is a life of this lady written by Mr. Pomfret.

1662.-] 351
complaints of the professors grounded on a clause in the will of Sir
Thos Gressham the founder.
This afternoone the Queene Mother with the Earle of St. Alban's
and many greate ladies and persons, was pleas'd to honor my poore villa
with her presence, and to accept of a collation. She was exceedingly
pleas'd and stay'd till very late in the evening.
15. Came my Lord Chancellor (ye Earle of Clarendon) and his lady,
his purse and mace borne before him, to visit me. They were likewise
collation'd with us, and were very merry. They had all ben our old
acquaintance in exile, and indeed this greate person had ever ben
my friend. His sonn Lord Comebery was here too.
17 Aug. Being the Sonday when the Common Prayer Booke
reformed and ordered to be used for the future, was appointed to be
read, and the solemn League and Covenant to be abjured by all the
incumbents of England under penalty of looseing their livings; our
Vicar read it this morning.
20. There were strong guards in ye Citty this day, apprehending
some tumults, many of the Presbyterian Ministers not conforming. I
dined with the Vice Chamberlaine, and then went to see the Queene
Mother, who was pleas'd to give me many thanks for the entertainment
she receiv'd at my house, when she recounted to me many observable
stories of the sagacity of some dogs she formerly had.
21. I was admitted and then sworne one of ye Council of yB Royal
Society, being nominated in his Ma'P original grant to be of this
Council for the regulation of the Society, and making laws and statutes
conducible to its establishment and progresse, for which we now set
apart every Wednesday morning till they were all finished. Lord
Visct. Brouncker (that excellent mathematician) was also by his Ma*
our Founder nominated our first President. The King gave us the
armes of England to be borne in a canton in our armes, and sent us a
mace of silver gilt of ye same fashion and bigness as those carried
before his Ma*, to be borne before our President on meeting daies. It
was brought by Sr Gilb. Talbot, Master of his Mal>8 Jewel-house.
22. I din'd with my Lord Brouncker and Sr Rob4 Morray, and
then went to consult about a new-model'd ship at Lambeth, the

352 [1662.
intention being to reduce that art to as certaine a method as any other
part of architecture.
23 Aug. I was spectator of the most magnificent triumph that ever
floated on the Thames *, considering the innumerable boates and
vessells, dress'd and adorn'd with all imaginable pomp, but above all
the thrones, arches, pageants, and other representations, stately barges
of the Lord Maior and Companies, with various inventions, musiq and
peales of ordnance both from yc vessels and the shore, going to meete
and conduct the new Queene from Hampton Court to White-hall, at
the first time of her coming to towne. In my opinion it far exceeded all
ye Venetian Bucentoras, &c. on the Ascension, when they go to espouse
the Adriatic. His Matie and the Queene came in an antiq-shap'd open
vessell, cover'd with a state or canopy of cloth of gold, made in form
of a cupola, supported with high Corinthian pillars, wreath'd with
flowers, festoons, and garlands. I was in our new-built vessell, sailing
amongst them.
29. The Council and Fellows of yB Royal Society went in a body to
White-hall to acknowledge his Ma*s royal grace in granting our
charter, and vouchsafing to be himselfe our Founder ; when the Presi
dent made an eloquent speech, to which his Ma'y gave a gracious reply,
and we all kiss'd his hand. Next day we went in like manner with our
addresse to my Lo. Chancellor, who had much promoted our Patent;
he receiv'd us with extraordinary favour. In the evening I went to the
Queene Mother's Court, and had much discourse with her.
1 Sept. Being invited by Lo. Berkley, I went to Durdans f , where
din'd his Majestie, the Queene, Duke, Dutchesse, Prince Rupert, Prince
Edward, and aboundance of Noblemen. I went after dinner to visit
my brother of Woodcot, my sister having ben deliver'd of a son a
little before, but who had now ben two days dead.
4 Sept. Commission for charitable uses, my Ld Maior and Alder
men being againe summon'd, and the improvements of Sir Tho.

* An account of this solemnity was published in " Aqua Triumphalis; being a true relation of
the honourable City of London entertaining their sacred'Majesties upon the River of Thames, and
welcoming them from Hampton Court to White-hall, &c Engraved by John Tatham," folio, 1662.
f At Epsom.

1662.] 353
Gressham's estate examin'd. There were present the Bp. of London,
the Lord Chief Justice, and the King's Attorney.
6. Dined wth me Sr Edward Walker, Garter King at Armes, Mr.
Slingsby, Master of the Mint, and severall others.
17- We now resolv'd that the armes of the Society should be, a
field Argent, with a canton of the armes of England; the supporters two
talbots Argent; Crest, an eagle Or holding a shield with the like armes
of England, viz. 3 lions. The words Nullius in verba. It was pre
sented to his Ma'y for his approbation, and orders given to Garter
King at Armes, to passe the diploma of their office for it.
20. I presented a petition to his Ma'y about my own concerns,
and afterwards accompanied him to Moris1 Febure, his chymist, (and
who had formerly ben my master in Paris) to see his accurate prepa
ration for ye composing Sr Walter Raleigh's rare cordial ; he made a
learned discourse before his Ma* in French on each ingredient.
27- Came to visit me Sr Geo. Savell *, grandson to yb learned Sir
Hen. Savell, who publish'd St. Chrysostome. Sr Geo. was a witty
gentleman, if riot a little too prompt and daring.
3 Oct. I was invited to the CoUedge of Physitlans, where Dr.
Meret, a learned man and Library Keeper, shew'd me the Library,
Theater for Anatomie, and divers natural curiosities ; the statue and
epigraph under it of that renowned physitian Dr. Harvey, discoverer
of the circulation of the blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, Sr W"
Paddy's, 'and other pictures of men famous in their faculty.
Visited Mr. Wright -j-, a Scotsman, who had liv'd long at Rome and
was esteem'd a good painter. The pictures of the Judges at Guild-hall
are of his hand, and so are some pieces in White-hall, as yc roofe in
his Majesties old bed-chamber, being Astrea, the St. Catherine, and a
chimney-piece in the Queene's privy chamber ; but his best, in my
opinion, is Lacy the famous Roscius or comedian, whom he has painted
in three dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian minister, and a Scotch
highlander in his plaid. It is in his Ma*s dining-room at Windsor;
He had at his house an excellent collection, especialy that small piece

* Afterwards the celebrated Marquis of Halifax. \ See p. 316.
VOL. I. 2 z

354 [1662.
of Corregio, Scotus of de la Marca, a designe of Paulo, and above all
those ruines of Polydore, with some good achates and medaills, especialy
a Scipio, and a Caesar's head of gold.
15. I this day deliver'd my Discourse concerning Forest Trees to the
Society, upon occasion of certain queries sent to us by the Commissioners
of his Ma*'8 Navy, being the first booke that was printed by *order of
the Society, and by their Printer, since it was a Corporation.
16. I saw " Volpone" acted at Court before their Ma*ies.
21. To the Queene Mother's Court, where her Ma* related to us
divers passages of her escapes during the Rebellion and Warrs in
England. 28 Oct. To Court in ye evening, where ye Queene Mother, ye
Queene Consort, and his Ma*, being advertis'd of some disturbance, for
bore to go to the Lord Maior's shew and feast appointed next day, the
new Queene not having yet seen yt triumph.
29. Was my Lo. Maior's* shew, with a number of sumptuous
pageants, speeches, and verses. I was standing in an house in Cheape-
side against the place prepar'd for their Mati8s. The Prince and heire of
Denmark was there, but not our King. There were also ye maids of
honor. I went to Court this evening, and had much discourse with Dr.
Basiers -\, one of his Ma*'*5 chaplains, the greate traveller, who shew'd
me the syngraphs and original subscriptions of divers Eastern Patriarchs
and Asian Churches to our Confession.
4 Nov. I was invited to the wedding of yc daughter of Sr Geo.
Carterat (ye Treasurer of ye Navy and King's Vice-Chamberlain), mar
ried to Sir Nich8. Slaning, Kn* of the Bath ; by the Bishop of London
in ye Savoy Chapell ; after, which was an extraordinary feast.
5. The Council of ye R. Society met to amend the Statutes, and
dined together : afterwards meeting at Gressham College, where was a
discourse suggested by me concerning planting his Ma*8 Forest of
Deane with oake, now so much exhausted of ye choicest ship-timber
in the world.

* Sir John Robinson, Knt. and Bart. Clothworker. The pageant on this occasion was called
" London's Triumph, at the Charge of the Clothworkers Company." By John Tatham."
t Isaac Basire. See p. 342, and an account of him in Wood's " Athena."

1662.] 355
'20. Dined wh the Comptroller Sir Hugh Pollard ; afterwards saw
" The Young Admiral" * acted before ya King.
21. Spent the evening at Court, Sr Kenelm Digby giving me greate
thanks for my Sylva.
27- Went to London to see ye entrance of ye Russian Ambassr,
whom his Ma* order'd to be received with much state, the Emperor
not only having ben kind to his Ma* in his distress, but banishing all
commerce with our Nation during ye Rebellion.
First the Citty Companies and Train'd Bands were all in their sta
tions : his Ma*'3 Army and Guards in greate order. His Excellency
came in a very rich coach, with some of his chiefe attendants ; many of
the rest on horseback, clad in their vests after ye Eastern manner, rich
furrs, caps, and carrying the presents, some carrying hawkes, furrs
teeth, bows, &c. It was a very magnificent shew.
I din'd with the Master of the Mintf, where was old Sir Ralph
Freeman J; passing my evening at the Queene Mother's Court, at night
saw acted " The Committee," a ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard,
where y.e mimic Lacy acted the Irish Footeman to admiration.
30. St. Andrewes clay. Invited by ye Deane of Westminster § td
his consecration dinner and ceremony, on his being made Bishop of
Worcester. Dr. Bolton preach'd in ye Abby Church; then follow'd the
consecration by the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Salis->
bury,^ &c. After this was one of the most plentifull and magnificent
dinners that in my life I ever saw ; it cost neere ^.600 as I was in-
form'd. Here were the Judges, Nobility, Clergy, and Gentlemen
innumerable, this Bishop being universally belov'd for his sweete and
gentle disposition. He was author of those Characters which go under
ye name of Blount ||. He translated his late Ma*s Icon into Latine, was
Clearke of his Closet, Chaplaine, Deane of Westmr, and yet a most
humble, meeke, but cheerfull man, an excellent scholar, and rare
preacher. I had the honour to be loved by him. He married me at

* A Tragi-Comedy by James Shirley.
t Mr. Slingsby. J Of Betchworth in Surrey.
§ Dr. John Earle. Translated afterwards to Salisbury.
|j These Characters were several times printed, and are still read with some interest.

356 [1662.
Paris, during his Majesties and ye Churches exile. When I tooke
leave of him he brought me to the Cloysters in his episcopal habit. I
then went to evening prayers at White-hall, where I pass'd that evening.
1 Dec. Having seene the strange and wonderful dexterity of the
sliders on the new Canal in St. James's Park, perform'd before their
Maties by divers gentlemen and others with Scheets after the manner of
the Hollanders, with what swiftness they passe, how suddainely they
stop in full carriere upon the ice, I went home by water, but not without
exceeding difficultie, the Thames being frozen, greate flakes of ice in-
compassing our boate.
17- I saw acted before ye King " The Law against Lovers." *
21 Dec. One of his Ma*'8 Chaplains preach'd, after which, instead
of ye antient, grave, and solemn wind musiq accompanying ye organ,
was introduc'd a concert of 24 violins betweene every pause, after ye
French fantastical light way, better suiting a tavern or playhouse than
a church. This was ye first time of change,, and now we no more heard
the cornet wch gave life to ye organ, that instrument quite left off in
which the English were so skillfull. I din'd at Mr. Povey's, where I
talk'd with Cromer, a greate musician.
23. I went with Sr George Tuke to hear the Comedians con and
repeate his new comedy, " The Adventures of 5 Hours," a play whose
plot was taken out of y famous Spanish poet Calderon.
27. I visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph.
29. Saw the audience of the Muscovy Ambass1- which was with
extraordinary state, his retinue being numerous, all clad in vests of
severall colours, with buskins after ye Eastern manner ; their caps of
furr; tunicks richly embrodred with gold and pearls made a glorious
shew. The King being seated under a canopie in ye Banquetting-
house, the Secretary of ye Embassy went before ye Ambassr in a grave
march, holding up his master's letters of credence in a crimson taffeta
scarfe before his forehead. The Ambassador then deliver'd it with a
profound reverence to ye King, who gave it to our Secretary of State ;

* A Tragi-Comedy by Sir William Davenant, taken almost entirely from Shakespeare's " Mea
sure for Measure," and " Much Ado about Nothing," blended together.

1663.] 357
it was written in a long and lofty style. Then came in the present,
borne by 165 of his retinue, consisting of mantles and other large
pieces lined with sable, black fox and ermine; Persian carpets, the
ground cloth of gold and velvet ; hawks, such as they sayd never came
the like; horses said to be Persian; bowes and arrows, &c. These
borne by so long a traine rendered it very extraordinary. Wind musiq
play'd all the while in ye galleries above. This finish'd, ye Ambassador
was convey'd by ye Master of yfc Ceremonies to York House, where he
was treated with a banquet wch cost .gg.200 as I was assur'd *.
1663. 7 Jan. At night I saw yc Ball, in which his Ma* daunc'd with
several great ladys.
8. I went to see my kinsman Sir Geo. Tuke's comedy acted at ye
Duke's Theater, which took so universally that it was acted for some
weekes every day, and 'twas believ'd it would be worth to the Comedians
4 or a£.500. The plot was incomparable, but the language stifle and
formal. 10. I saw a Ball againe at Court, daunc'd by the King, the Duke,
and Ladies in great pompe.
21. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's of the Household, Sr Chas Berkeley's,
where were the Earle of Oxford, Ld Bellassis, Ld Gerard, Sr An
drew Scroope, Sr William Coventry, Dr. Fraser, Mr. Windham, and
others. 5 Feb. I saw " The Wild Gallant," a comedy f; and was at ye
greate Ball at Court, where his Ma*, the Queene, &c. daunc'd.

- * " The Czar of Muscovy sent an Embassr to compliment K. Cha. II. on his Restoration. The
K. sent the Earl of Carlisle as his Embassr to Moscow, to desire the re-establishment of the antient
privileges of the English Merchants at Archangel, wch had been taken away by the Czar, who
abhorring the murder of the Ks father accused them as favorers of it. But by the means of the
Czar's ministers, his lordship was very ill received, and met with what he deemed affronts, and had
no success as to his demands, so that at coming away he refused the presents sent him by the
Czar. The Czar sent an Ambassr to England to complain of Lord Carlisle's conduct, but his
Lordship vindicated himself so well, that the King told the Embassr he saw no reason to condemn
his lordship's conduct." Relation of this Embassie by G. M. authenticated by Lord Carlisle,
printed 1669.
f By Mr. Dryden. It did not succeed on its first representation, bat was considerably altered
to the form in which it now appears.

358 [1663.
6. Dined at my Lord Maior's, Sr Jo. Robinson, Lieutenant of the
Tower. 15. This night some villains brake into my house and study below,
and robbed me to ye value of s£.60 in plate, money, and goods. This
being the third time I have ben thus plundered.
26 Mar. I sat at ye Commission of Sewers, where was a greate case
pleaded by his Ma*'s Counsel ; he having built a wall over a water
course, denied the jurisdiction of the Court. The verdict went for the
Plaintiff [i. e. against ye King].
30 April. Came his Ma* to honor my poore villa with his presence,
viewing the gardens and even every roome of the house, and was pleas'd
to take a small refreshment. There were with him the Duke of Rich
mond, E. of St. Albans, Lord Lauderdale, and several persons of quality.
14 May. Dined with my Lord Mordaunt, and thence went to
Barnes, to visite my excellent and ingenious friend Abraham Cowley.
17- I saluted the old Bishop of Durham, Dr. Cosin, to whom I
had ben kind and assisted in his exile, but which he little remember'd
in his greatnesse.
29. Dr. Creighton preach'd his extravagant Sermon at St. Marga
ret's, before the House of Commons.
30. This morning was pass'd my Lease of Says Court from the
Crown, for ye finishing of which I had ben oblig'd to make such fre
quent journies to London. I return'd this evening, having seene the
Russian Ambassador take leave of their Maties with greate solemnity.
2 July. I saw the greate masq at Court, and lay that night at
Arundel -house.
4. I saw his Ma*'8 guards, being of horse and foote 4000, led by
the General the Duke of Albemarle in extraordinary equipage and gal
lantry, consisting of gentlemen of quality and veteran souldiers, excel
lently clad, mouuted and ordered, drawn up in battalia before their
Maties in Hide Park, where the old Earle of Cleveland frail'd a pike
and led the right-hand file in a foote company commanded by ye Lord
Wentworth his son, a worthy spectacle and example, being both of
them old and valiant souldiers. This was to shew ye French Ambassr,
Monsr Comminges ; there being a greate assembly of coaches, &c. in
ye park.

166$.] 359
7- Dined at the Comptroler's ; after dinner we met at the Commis
sion about the streetes, and to regulate hackney coaches, also to make
up our accompts to passe the Exchequer.
16. A most extraordinary wet and cold season.
Sr Geo. Carteret, Treasurer of the Navy, had now married his
daughter Caroline to Sr Tho. Scot, of Scottshall, in Kent *. This gent:
was thought to be the sonn of Prince Rupert.
2 Aug. This evening I accompanied Mr. Treasurer and Vice Cham
berlain Carteret to his lately-married son-in-law's, Sr Tho. Scot, to
Scottshall. We tooke barge as far as Graves-end, thence by post to
Rochester, whence in coach and 6 horses to Scottshall ; a right noble
seate, uniformely built, with a handsome gallery. It stands in a park
well stor'd, the land fat and good. We were exceedingly feasted by
the young knight, and in his pretty chapell heard an excellent sermon
by his chaplaine. In the afternoone preach'd the learned Sr Norton
Knatchbull f (who has a noble seate hard by, and a plantation of
stately fir-trees). In the church-yard of the parish church I measur'd
an over-grown yew-tree that was 18 of my paces in compasse, Out of
some branches of which, torne off by yc winds, were saw'd divers
goodly planks.
10. We return'd by Sir Norton's, whose house is likewise in a
park. This gentn is a worthy person, and learned critic, especialy in
Greek and Hebrew. Passing by Chatham we saw his Ma*s Royal
Navy, and din'd at Commissr Pett's, master-builder there, who shewed
me his study and models, with other curiosities belonging to his art.
He is esteem'd for ye most skillfull ship-builder in the world. He hath
a pretty garden and banquetting-house, pots, statues, cypresses, re
sembling some villas about Rome. After a greate feast we rod post to
Graves-end, and sending the coach to London, came by barge home
that night.
18. To London to see my Lo. Chancellor, where I had discourse
with my Lo. Archbp. of Canterbury and the Bishop of Winchester,
who injoyned me to write to Dr. Pierce, President of Magd. Coll.
* See Hasted's " Kent," vol. III. p. 293. f Id. vol. II. p. 444.

360 [1663.
Oxon. about a letter sent him by Dr. Goff, a Romish Oratorian, con
cerning an answer to Dean Cressy's late book *.
20. I din'd at yfc Comptroller's [of the Household] with ye Earle
of Oxford and Mr. Ashbumham ; it was said it should be the last of
the public diets or tables at Court, it being determined to put down
the old hospitality, at which was greate murmuring, considering his
Ma*8 vast revenue and the plenty of ye Nation. Hence I went to sit
in a Committee to consider about the regulation of the Mint at the
Tower, in which some small progresse was made.
27 Aug. Din'd at Sr Ph. Warwick's, Secretary to my Lo. Trea
surer, who shew'd me the accompts and other private matters relating
to the revenue. Thence to the Commissrs of the Mint, particularly
about coynage, and bringing his Ma*8 rate from 15 to 10 shillings for
every pound weight of gold.
31. I was invited to the Translation of Dr. Sheldon, Bishop of
London, from that see to Canterbury, the ceremonie performed at
Lambeth. First went his grace's mace bearer, steward, treasurer,
comptroller, all in their gownes and with white staves ; next, the
Bishops in their habites, eight in number ; Dr. Sweate Deane of the
Arches, Dr. Exton Judge of ye Admiralty, S1 W^1 Merick, Judge of
the Prerogative Court, with divers Advocates in scarlet. After divine
service in yfc chapel, perform'd with musiq extraordinary, Dr. French
and Dr. Stradling (his grace's chaplaines) saied prayers. The Archb?
in a private roome looking into ye Chapel, the Bishops who were Com
missioners went up to a table plac'd before the altar, and sat round
it in chaires. Then Dr. Chaworth presented ye commission under the
broad seal to ye Bishop of Winchester, and it was read by Dr. Sweate.
After which the Vicar-general went to ye vestry, and brought his
Grace into yc Chapell, his other officers marching before. He beino-

* Of Dr. Pierce, who was also Dean of Salisbury, Wood gives a very unfavourable account in
his " Fasti." He appears to have been engaged in disputes both in his College and at Salishury.
Dean Cressy was bred in the Church of England, and was appointed Canon of Windsor and
Dean of Leighlin in Ireland, in the time of King Charles I. but, from the troubles of that time,
had no benefit from either; he afterwards became a Papist. The book here referred to is
" Exomologetis," or the motives of his conversion. Wood's Fasti.

1663.] 361
presented to the Commissrs was seated in a greate arm chaire at one
end of ye table, when the definitive sentence was read by the Bishop
of Winchester, and subscribed by all the Bishops, and proclamation
was three times made at the Chapell dore, which was then set open
for any to enter and give their exceptions, if any they had. This don
we all went to dinner in ye greate hall to a mighty feast. There were
present all ye nobility in towne, ye Lord Maior of London, Sheriffs,
Duke of Albemarle, &c. My Lo. Archb? did in particular most civily
welcome me. So going to visite my Lady Needham who liv'd at
Lambeth, I went over to London.
10 Sept. I din'd with Mr. Treasurer of ye Navy, where setting by
Mr. Secretary Morice, we had much discourse about bookes and
authors, he being a learned man, and had a good collection.
24 Oct. Mr. Edwd Phillips came to be my sonns preceptor : this
gentleman was nephew to Milton, who wrote against Salmasius's
" Defensio," but was not at all infected with his principles, tho'
brought up by him.
5 Nov. Dr. South, my Ld Chancellor's Chaplain, preached at
Westminster Abby an excellent discourse concerning obedience to Ma
gistrates, against the Pontificians and Sectaries. I afterwards dined at
Sir Ph: Warwick's, where was much company.
6. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn of Godstone off from being
Sheriff of Surrey *.
30. Was the first anniversary of our Society for the choice of new
officers, according to the tenor of our Patent and Institution. It being
St. Andrew's day, who was our patron, each fellow wore a St. An
drew's Crosse of ribbon on the crowne of his hatt. After ye election
we din'd together, his Ma* sending us venison.
16 Dec. To our Society where Mr. P. Balle, our treasurer at the
late election, presented the Society with an iron chest, with 3 locks,
and in it a^lOO. as a gift.
18. Dined with ye gentlemen of his Ma*8 bedchamber at White-hall.
* In which he succeeded.
VOL. I. 3 A

362 [1664.
1664, 2 Jan. To Barne Elmes, to see Abraham Cowley after his
sicknesse ; and returned that evening to London.
4 Feb. Dined at Sr Philip Warwick's ; thence to Court, where I
had discourse with the King about an invention of Glasse Granados,
and severall other subjects,
5. I saw " The Indian Queene" * acted, a tragedie well written,
so beautified with rich scenes as the like had never ben seene here, or
haply (except rarely) elsewhere on a mercenary theater.
16. I presented my " Sylva" to the Society ; and- next day to his
Majestie,- to whom it was dedicated ; also to the Lord Treasurer, and
the Lord Chancellor.
24. My Lord Geo. Berkeley of Durdens, and Sr Sam1 Tuke, came
to visite me. We went on board Sr William Petty's double bottom'd
vessell, and so to London.
26. Dined with my Lord Chancellor ; and thence to Court, where
I had greate thanks for my " Sylva," and long discourse with the King
of divers particulars.
2 March. Went to London, to distribute some of my books amongst
friends. 4. Came to dine with me the Earle of Lauderdale, his Majestie's
greate favorite, and Secretary of Scotland ; the E. of Tividale ; my Ld
Vise*. Brouncker, Presid'. of the R. Society ; Dr. Wilkins, Deane of
Rippon ; Sir Rob* Morrey, and Mr. Hooke, Curator to yc Society.
This Spring I planted the Home-field and West-field about Says
Court with elmes, being the same yeare that the elmes v/ere planted
by his Ma* in Greenewich Park.
9. I went to the Tower, to sit in Commission about regulating the
Mint ; and now it was that the fine new mill'd coin both of white
money and guineas was established.
26. It pleas'd God to take away my sonn Richard, being now a
moneth old, yet without any sicknesse of danger perceivably, being to
all appearance a most likely child ; we suspected much the nurse had

* Written by Sir Robert Howard and Mr. Dryden,

1664.] 363
overlayne him : to our extreame sorrow, being now againe reduced to
one : but God's will be done !
29. After evening prayers was my child buried neere the rest of his
brothers — my very deare Children.
27 April. Saw a facetious Comedy called " Love in a Tub ;" and
supped at Mr. Secretary Bennet's.
3 May. Came ye Earle of Kent my kindsman, and his Lady, to
visite us.
5. Went with some company a journey of pleasure on ye water in
barge with musick, and at Mortlack had a greate banquet, • returning
late. The occasion was, S' Rob. Carr now courting Mrs. Bennet,
sister to ye Secretary of State.
6. Went to see Mr. Wrighte the painter's collection of rare shells, &c.
8 June. Went to our Society, to wh his Matie had sent that won-
derfull home of ye fish which struck a dangerous hole in ye keel of a
Ship in the India Sea, wh being broke off with the violence of ye fish
and left in ye timber, preserved it from foundering.
9. Sr Samuel Tuke * being this morning married to a lady, kins
woman to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, by ye Queenes Lord Almoner
L Aubignie in St. James's Chapell, solemniz'd his wedding-night at
my house with much companie.
22. One Tomson a Jesuite shew'd me such a collection of rarities,
sent from ye Jesuites of Japan and China to their Order at Paris, as a
present to be reserv'd in their repository, but brought to London by
the East India ships for them, as in my life I had not seene. The
cheife things were, large rhinoceros's horns ; glorious vests wrought and
embrodered on cloth of gold, but with such lively colours, that for
splendour and vividness we have nothing in Europe that approches it;
a girdle studded with achats and rubies of greate value and size ; knives
of so keene an edge as one could not touch them, nor was the mettal
of our colour, but more pale and livid ; fanns like those our ladies use,
but much larger, and with long handles curiously carved and filled with
Chinese characters ; a sort of paper very broad, thin and fine like abor-
* A Roman Catholic.

364 [1664.
tive parchment and exquisitely polished, of an amber yellow, exceeding
glorious and pretty to looke on, and seeming to be like that which my
Lo. Verulame describes in his " Nova Atlantis;" several other sorts of
paper, some written, others printed; prints of landskips, their idols,
saints, pagods, of most ugly serpentine monstrous and hideous shapes,
to which they paid devotion ; pictures of men and countries rarely-
painted on a sort of gum'd calico transparent as glasse ; flowers, trees,
beasts, birds, &c. excellently wrought in a kind of sieve silk very natu
rall ; divers drougs that our drouggists and physitians could make no
thing of, especialy one which the Jesuite call'd Lac Tygridis, it look'd
like a fungus, but was weighty like metall, yet was a concretion or
coagulation of some other matter ; several booke MSS. ; a grammar of
ye language writen in Spanish ; with innumerable other rarities.
1 July. Went to see Mr. Povey's* elegant house in Lincoln's-inn-
fields, where the perspective in his court, painted by Streeter, is indeede
excellent, with ye vasas in imitation of porphyrie, and fountains ; the
inlaying of his closet ; above all, his pretty cellar and ranging of his
wine bottles.
7. To Court, where I subscribed to Sr Arthur Slingsby's lottery a
desperate debt owing me long since in Paris.
14. I went to take leave of ye two Mr. Howards, now going for
Paris, and brought them as far as Bromley ; thence to Eltham, to see
Sr John Shaw's new house now building ; the place is pleasant if not
too wett, but the house not well contriv'd, espeeialy the roofe and
roomes too low pitch'd, and the kitchen where the cellars should be ;
the orangerie and aviarie handsome, & a very large plantation about it.
19. To London to see* the event of the lottery which his Ma* had
permitted Sr Arthur Slingsby to set up for one day in the Banqueting
House at White-hall. I gaining only a trifle, as well as did the King,
Queene-consort and Queene-mother for neere 30 lotts ; which was
thought to be contrived very unhandsomely by the master of it, who
was, in truth, a meer shark.
* A Mr.Povey lived at Bellsize House in Hampstead in 1718, who was a coal merchant, though
not trained to the business ; he wrote many books, some discovering indirect practices in the coal
trade, in government offices, &c. (See under 1676, Feb.) Park's Hist, of Hampstead, p. 156.

1664.] 365
21. I dined with my L. Treasurer at Southampton House, where his
Lordship used me with singular humanitie. I went in the afternoone
to Chelsey to waite on the Duke of Ormond, and returned to London.
28. Came to see me old Mons1 Zulichem, Secretary to the Prince
of Orange, an excellent Latin poet, now neere 80 yeares of age, a rare
Lutinlst, with Monsr Oudart.
3 Aug. To London ; a concert of excellent musitians, especialy one
Mr. Berkenshaw, that rare artist who invented a mathematical way of
composure very extraordinary, true as to the exact rules of art, but
without much harmonie.
8. Came ye sad and unexpected newes of ye death of Lady Cotton,
wife to my brother George, a most excellent lady.
9. Went wh my brother Richard to Wotton, to visite & comforte my
disconsolate brother; and on the 13th saw my friend Mr. Charles
Howard at Dipden neere Darking.
16. I went to see S1' Wm Ducie's house at Charleton, which he pur-
chas'd of my excellent friend Sr Hen. Newton, now nobly furnish'd.
22. I went from London to Wotton to assist at the funerall of my
sister-in-law, the Lady Cotton, buried in our dormitorie there, she
being put up in lead. Dr. Owen made a profitable and pathetic dis
course, concluding with an eulogie of that virtuous, pious, and deserving
lady. It was a very solemn funerall, with about 50 mourners. I came
back next day wb my wife to London.
2 Sept. Came Sr Constantine Hugens, Dr. Zulichem, Sr Rob*.
Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew, and other friends, to spend the
day wh us.
5 Oct. To our Society. There was brought a new invented instru
ment of musiq, being a harpsichord with gut strings, sounding like a
concert of viols with an organ, made vocal by a wheele, and a zone of
parchment that rubb'd horizontaly against the strings.
6. I heard the anniversary oration in praise of Dr. Harvey, in the
Anatomie Theater in the Coll. of Physitians, after which I was invited
by Dr. Alston the President to a magnificent feast.
7. I dined at Sr Nich5. Strood's, one of the Masters of Chancery, in

366 [1664-
greate SK Bartholomews ; passing ye evening at White -hall with the
Queene, &c.
8. Sr William Curtius, his Ma*s Resident in Germany, came to
visite me ; he was a wise and learned gentleman, and, as he told me,
scholar to Henry Alstedius the Encyclopaedist.
15. Din'd at ye Lo. Chancellors, where was the Duke of Ormond,
Earle of Corke, & Bp. of Winchester. After dinner my Lord Chancr
and his lady carried me in their coach to see their palace * (for he now
liv'd at Worcester House in ye Strand) building at the upper end of St.
James's Streete, and to project the garden. In the evening I presented
him with my booke of Architecture, as before I had don to his Ma* and
ye Queene Mother. His Lordship caus'd me to stay with him in his
bed-chamber, discoursing of severall matters very late, even til he was
going into his bed.
17. I went with my Lo. Visct. Cornebury to Cornebury in Oxford
shire, to assist him in the planting of the park, and beare him company,
with Mr. Belin and Mr. May, in a coach with 6 horses ; din'd at
Uxbridge, lay at Wicckam (Wycombe).
18. At Oxford. Went thro' Woodstock, where we beheld the
destruction of that royal seate and park by ye late -rebels, and ariv'd
that evening at Cornebury, an house lately built by the Earle of Den
bigh in ye middle of a sweete park, wall'd with a dry wall. The
house is of excellent freestone abounding in that part, a stone that is
fine, but never sweats or casts any damp ; 'tis of ample dimensions, has
goodly cellars, the paving of ye hall admirable for its close laying. We
design'd an handsom chapell that was yet wanting : as Mr. May had
the stables, which indeed* are very faire, having set out the walkes in
the park and gardens. The lodge is a prety solitude, and the ponds
very convenient ; the parke well stor'd.
20. Hence we went to see ye famous wells, natural and artificial

* There is a large View of it engraved. The Chancellor in the Continuation of his Life laments
the having built it, on account of the great cost, and the unpopularity which its magnificence
created. He had little enjoyment of it, as will be seen hereafter.

1664.] 367
grotts and fountains, call'd Bushells Wells at Enstone *. This Bushell
had ben secretary to my Lo. Verulam. It is an extraordinary solitude.
There he had two mummies ; a grott where he lay in a hammock like
an Indian. Hence we went to Dichley, an ancient seate of the Lees,
now Sr Hen. Lee's; it is a low ancient timber-house, with a pretty
bowling greene. My Lady gave us an extraordinary dinner. This
gentleman's mother was Countesse of Rochester, who was also there,
and Sir Walter Saint John. There were some pictures of their ancestors
not ill painted ; the great grand-father had ben Kn* of ye Garter : there
was the picture of a Pope and our Saviour's head. So we return'd
to Cornbury.
24. We din'd at Sr Tim. Tyrill's at Shotover. This gent" married
the daughter and heyre of Dr. James Usher, Abp. of Armagh, that
learned Prelate. There is here in ye grove a fountaine of ye coldest
water I ever felt, and very cleere. His plantation of oakes, &c. is very
commendable. We went in ye evening to Oxford, lay at Dr. Hide's,
Principal of Magdalen Hall, (related to the Lo. Chancellor) brother to
ye Lord Ch. Justice and that Sr Hen. Hide who lost his head for his
loyalty. We were handsomly entertain'd two dayes. The Vice Chan
cellor, who with Dr. Fell, Deane of Christ Church, the learned Dr.
Barlow, Warden of Queenes, and severall heads of houses, came to
visite Lord Cornebury (his father being now Chancellor of the Uni
versity), and next day invited us all to dinner. I went to visite Mr.
Boyle (now here), whom I found with Dr. Wallis and Dr. Chr Wren
in the Tower of the Scholes, with an inverted tube or telescope,
observing the discus of the Sunn for ye passing of Mercury that day be
fore it, but the latitude was so great that nothing appeared ; so we went
to see ye rarities in ye Library, where the keepers shewed me my name
among ye benefactors. They have a cabinet of some medails, and
pictures of yc muscular parts of man's body. Thence to the new
Theater, now building at an exceeding and royal expence by the Lo.

* Bushell published a pamphlet respecting his contrivances here ; and in Plott's Oxfoi-dshire is
an engraving of the rock, the fountains, &c. belonging to it. See an account of him in the
History of Surrey, vol. III. p. 523, and Appendix cxlix.

368 [1664.
Abp. of Canterbury [Sheldon], to keepe the Acts in for the future,
till now being in St. Mary's church. The foundation had ben newly
laied and the whole design'd by that incomparable genius my worthy
friend Dr. Chrr Wren, who shewed me the model, not disdaining my
advice in some particulars. Thence to see f picture on ye wall over yB
Altar at All Soules, being the largest piece of fresco painting (or rather
in imitation of it, for it is in oil of turpentine) in England, not ill
design'd by the hand of one Fuller ; yet I feare it will not hold long.
It seems too full of nakeds for a chapell.
Thence to New College, and the painting of Magdalen Chapel,
which is on blew cloth in chiaro oscuro, by one Greenborow, being a
Coena Domini, and a Last Judgment on the wall by Fuller, as is
the other, but somewhat varied.
Next to Wadham, and the Physick Garden, where were two large
locust trees, and as many platana, and some rare plants under ye culture
of old Bobart *.
26. We came back to Beaconsfield ; next day to London, where we
dined at the Ld Chancellor's wh my Lord Bellasis.
27- Being casually in the privy gallery at White-hall, his Ma*
gave me thanks before divers lords and noblemen for my book of Archi
tecture, and againe for my " Sylva," saying they were the best de
sign'd and usefull for ye matter and subject, yc best printed and de
sign'd (meaning ye taille douces of ye Parallel of Architecture) that he
had seene. He then caus'd me to follow him alone to one of ye win
dows, and ask'd me if I had any paper about me unwritten, and a
crayon ; I presented him with both, and then laying it on ye window-
Stool, he with his own .hands design'd to me the plot for the future
building of White-hall, together with the roomes of state, and other
* Jacob Bobart, a German, was appointed the first keeper of the Physic Garden at Oxford. There
is a fine print of him after Loggan by Burghers, dated 1675. Also a small whole length in the
frontispiece of Vertumnus, a poem on that garden. In this he is dressed in a long vest, with a
beard. One of this family was bred up at College in Oxford, but quitted his studies for the pro
fession of the whip, driving one of the Oxford coaches (his own property) for many years with
great credit. In 1813 he broke his leg by an accident; and in 1814, from the respect he had
acquired by his good conduct, he was appointed by the University to the place of one of the
Esquire Beadles.

1664.] 369
particulars. After this he talk'd with me of several matters, and asking
my advice of many particulars, in wch I find his Ma* had an extraordi
nary talent becoming a magnificent prince.
The same day at Council, there being Commissioners to be made to
take care of such Sick and Wounded and Prisoners of war as might be
expected upon occasion of a succeeding war and action at sea, war
being already declar'd against ye Hollanders; his Ma* was pleas'd to no
minate me to be one, with three other gentlemen, Parliament men, viz.
Sr Wm Doily Knt. and Bart. Sr Tho. Clifford*, and Bullein Rheymes
Esq. ; with a salary ^.1200 a year amongst us, besides extraordinaries
for our care and attention in time of station, each of us being appointed
to a particular district, mine falling out to be Kent and Sussex, with
power to constitute officers, physitians, chirurgeons, provost marshals,
and to dispose of halfe of the hospitals thro' England. After yfc Council
we kiss'd his Ma*'s hand. At this Council I heard Mr. Solicitor
Finch -j* plead most elegantly for the Merchants trading to the Canaries,
praying for a new Charter.
29. Was ye most magnificent triumph by water and land of ye Lord
Maior J. I din'd at Guild-hall at ye upper table, plac'd next to Sf H.
Bennett, Secretary of State, opposite to my Lo. Chancellor and the
Duke of Buckingham who sate betweene Monsr Comminges the French
Ambassr, Lord Treasurer, the Dukes of Ormond and Albemarle, Earl
of Manchester Lord Chamberlaine, and the rest of yc great Officers of
State. My Lord Maior came twice up to us, first drinking in the
golden goblett his Ma'>'s health,' then the French King's as a compli
ment to the Ambassr ; then we return'd my Lo. Maior's health, the
trumpets and drums sounding. The cheere was not to be imagined for
the plenty and raritie, with an infinite number of persons at the rest of
the tables in that ample hall. The feast was said to cost ,§£.1000. I
slipt away in ye crowd, and came home late.
31. I was this day 44 yeares of age, for which I returned thanks to
Almighty God, begging his mercyfull protection for the yeare to come.
* Since Lord Treasurer of England. t Afterwards Earl of Nottingham, Lord Chancellor.
% Sir John Lawrence. The pageant for the day was called " London's Triumph, prepared at
the cost of the Haberdashers Company, and written by John Tatham, Gent."
VOL. I. 3 B

370 [1664.
2 Nov. Her Ma* the Queene Mother came crosse the gallerie in
White-hall to give me thanks for my book of Architecture which I had
presented to her, with a compliment that I did by no means deserve.
16. We chose our Treasurer, Clearks, and Messengers, and ap
pointed our seal wch I order'd should be the good Samaritan, with
this motto, Fac similiter. Painters Hall was lent us to meete in. In
the greate roome were divers pictures, some reasonably good, that had
ben given to the Company by several of ye Wardens and Masters of the
Company. 23. Our Statutes now finished, were read before a full assembly of
the Royall Society.
24. His Ma* was pleas'd to tell me what the conference was with
the Holland Ambassador, which, as after I found, was the heads of
the speech he made at the re-convention of the Parliam*, which now
began. 2 Dec. We deliver'd the Privy Council's letters to the Govrs of St.
Thomas's Hospital in Southwark, that a moiety of the house should
be reserv'd for such sick and wounded as should from time to time be
sent from the Fleete during the war. This .being deliver'd at their
Court, the President and several Aldermen, Governors of that Hospital,
invited us to a greate feaste in Fishmongers Hall.
20. To London our last sitting, taking order for our personal vi
siting our severall districts. I dined at Capt. Cock's (our Treasurer),
wh that most ingenious gent. Matthew Wren, sonn to the Bp. of Ely,
and Mr. Joseph Williamson, since Secretary of State.
22. I went to ye launching of a new ship of two bottomes, invented
by Sl Wm Petty, on which were various opinions ; his Ma* being pre
sent gave her the name of The Experiment ; so I returned home, where
I found Sir Humphry Winch, who spent the day with me.
This yeare I planted the lower grove next the pond at Says Court-
It was now exceeding cold and a hard long frosty season, and the Comet
was very visible.
28. Some of my poore neighbours dined with me, and others of my
tennants, according to my annual costome.

1665.] 371
3 1 . Set my affaires in order, gave God praise for his mercys the
past yeare, and prepared for the reception of the Holy Sacrament,
which I partook of the next day after hearing our Minister on the 4th
Galatians 4. 5. of the Mysterie of Our Blessed Saviours Incarnation.
1665. 2 Jan. This day was publish'd by me that part of* " The
Mysterie of Jesuitism" translated and collected by me, tho' without my
name, containing the Imaginarie Heresy, with 4 letters and other pieces.
4. I went in a coach, it being excessive sharp frost and snow, to
wards Dover and other parts of Kent,, to settle physitians, chirurgeons,
agents, marshals and other officers in all the Sea Ports, to take care of

* In a letter to Lord Cornbury 2 Jan. 1664, Mr. Evelyn says, " I came lo present yr Lordship
with yr owne booke [in the margin is written, ' The other part of the Mystery of Jesuitism trans
lated and publish'd by me']: I left it with my Lord y father, because I would not suffer it to be
publiq till he had first seene it, who, on yr Li's score, has so just a title to it. The particulars
wch yOU wiU find added after the 4th letter are extracted out of severall curious papers and pas
sages lying by me, which for being very apposite to ye controversy, I thought fit to annex, in
danger otherwise to have never ben produced." — In another letter to Lord Cornbury, 9 Feb.
1664, Mr. Evelyn says he undertook the Translation by command of his Lordship and of his father
the Lord Chancellor (see vol. II. p. 142.)
The Authors of the " Biographia Britannica" speak of " The Mystery of Jesuitisme" as one
volume ; but in the library at Wotton there are three, in duodecimo, with the following titles and
contents : the second in order is that translated by Mr. Evelyn.
1. Les Provinciales, or. The Mystery of Jesuitisme, discovered in certain Letters written upon
occasion of the present difference at Sorbonne between the Jansenistsand the Molinists, displaying
the pernicious Maxims of the late Casuists. The second edition corrected, with large additionals,
Sicut Serpentes. London : Printed for Richard Royston, and are to be sold by Robert Clavell at
the Stag's Head near St. Gregorie's Church in St. Paul's Churchyard, 1658. — pp. 360. Additionals,
pp. 147. At the end are the names of some of the most eminent Casuists.
2. Murijiov t«s 'Aw^iaq. That is, Another Part of the Mystery of Jesuitism j or the new Heresie
of the Jesuites, publickly maintained at Paris, in the College of Clermont, the xii of December
MDCLXI. declared to all the Bishops of France. According to the copy printed at Paris. Toge
ther with the Imaginary Heresie, in three Letters, with divers other particulars relating to the
abominable Mysterie. Never before published in English. London : Printed by James Flesher,
for Richard Royston, bookseller to his most sacred Majesty, 1664.— 3 letters, pp.206. Copy of
a Letter from the revd Father Valerian, a Capuchin, to Pope Alexr 7th, pp. 207—239. The sense
of the French Church, pp. 240—254.
3. The Moral Practice of the Jesuits demonstrated by many remarkable histories of their actions
in all parts of the world. Collected either from books of the greatest authority, or most certain
and unquestionable records and memorials. By the Doctors of the Sorbonne. Faithfully trans
lated into English (by Dr. Tongue ; see hereafter, under 1678, Oct, 1.) London: Printed for
Simon Miller at the Star at the West end of St. Paul's, 1670.

sue

372 [\66$.
such as should be set on shore, wounded, sick, or prisoners, in pur
suance of our Commission reaching from the North Foreland in Kent
to Portsmouth in Hampshire. The rest of y- Ports in England were
allotted to y other Commissi That evening I came to Rochester,
where I deliver'd the Privy Council's letter to the Maior to receive or-
ders from me.
5. I ariv'd at Canterbury, and went to the Cathedral, exceedingly
well repair'd since his Ma*s returne.
6. To Dover, where Col. Stroode Lieut4 of the Castle, having re
ceiv'd the letter I brought him from the Duke of Albemarle, made me
lodge In it, and I was splendidly treated, assisting me from place to
place. Here I settled my first Deputy. The Maior and Officers of the
Costomes were very civil to me.— 9. To Deal— 10. To Sandwich, a
pretty towne, about 2 miles from the sea. The Maior and Officers of
the Costomes were very diligent to serve me. 1 visited the Forts in ye
way, and return'd that night to Canterbury.
11. To Rochester, when I tooke order to settle officers at Chatham.
 1 2. To Gravesend, and return'd home. A cold, busy, but not un
pleasant j ourney.
25. This night being at White-hall, his Ma* came to me standing
in the withdrawing roome, and gave me thanks for publishing " The
Mysterie of Jesuitism," which he said he had carried two days in his
pocket, read it, and encourag'd me ; at which I did not a little wonder;
I suppose Sr Rob1 Morray had given it to him.
27. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, who caus'd me after dinner to
sit 2 or 3 houres alone with him in his bed-chamber.
2 Feb. I saw a masq perform'd at Court by 6 gentlemen and 6
ladys, surprizing his Ma*, it being Candlemas-day.
8. Ash-Wednesday. I visited our prisoners at Chelsey CoUedge,
and to examine how the Martial and Suttlers behav'd. These were
prisoners taken in the warr; they only complain'd that their bread was
too fine. I dined at Sr Henry Herbert's, Master of the Revells.
9. Din'd at my Lo. Treasurers the Earle of Southampton, in
Blomesbury, where he was building a noble Square or Piazza*, a little
¦  —  ¦ v  ¦  '  n
* The Italians do not mean what we do by Piazza ; they only mean a Square.

l6«5.J 373
Towne; his owne house stands too low, some noble roomes, a pretty
cedar chapell, a naked garden to the North, but good aire*. I had
much discourse with his Lordship, whom I found to be a person of ex
traordinary parts, but valetudinarie.—l went to St. James's Parke,
where I saw various animals, and examined the throate of y* Onocra-
tylus or Pelican, a fowle betweene a Stork and a Swan; a melancholy
water-fowl brought from Astracan by the Russian Ambassador, it was
diverting to see how he would toss up and turn a flat fish, plaice or
flounder, to get it right into its gullet at its lower beak, wch being
filmy, stretches to a prodigious wideness when it devours a great fish.
Here was also a small water-fowl not bigger than a more-hen, that went
almost quite erect like the penguin of America ; it would eate as much
fish as its whole body weigh'd, I never saw so unsatiable a devourer,
yet ye body did not appear to swell the bigger. The Solan geese here
also are greate devourers, and are said soon to exhaust all ye fish in a
pond. Here was a curious sort of poultry not much exceeding the size
of a tame pidgeon, with legs so short as their crops seem'd to touch ye
earth ; a milk-white raven ; a stork which was a rarity at this season
seeing he was loose and could file loftily ; two Balearian cranes, one of
which having had one of his leggs broken and cut off above the knee,
had a wooden or boxen leg and thigh, with a joynt so accurately made
that ye creature could walke and use it as well as if it had ben natural ;
it was made by a souldier. The Parke was at this time stored with
numerous flocks of severall sorts of ordinary and extraordinary wild
fowle, breeding about the Decoy, which for being neere so greate a
Citty, and among such a concourse of souldiers and people, is a singular
and diverting thing. There were also deere of severall countries,
white ; spotted like leopards ; antelopes ; an elk ; red deere ; roebucks ;
staggs ; Guinea goates ; Arabian sheepe, &c. There were withy-potts
or nests for the wild fowle to lay their eggs in, a little above ye surface
of ye water.

* Afterwards it was called Bedford House, being the town residence for many years of the
Russell family, but was pulled down in 1800, and on the site and the adjoining fields were erected
many handsome houses, now called Russell Square, Bedford Place, Russell Place, &c.

374 [1605.
23 Feb. I was invited to a greate feast at Mr. Rich's (a relation of
my wife's, now Reader at Lincoln's Inn) ; where was the Duke of
Monmouth, the Archbishop of Canterbury, Bishops of London and
Winchester, the Speaker of the House of Commons, divers of the
Judges, and severall other greate men.
24. Dr. Fell, Canon of Christ Church, preach'd before the King on
15 Romans 2, a very formal discourse, and in blank verse, according to
his manner ; however he is a good man. — Mr. Philips, preceptor to my
sonn, went to be with the Earle of Pembroke's sonn, my Lord Herbert.
2 March. I went with his Ma* into the lobbie behind the House of
Lords, where I saw the King and rest of the Lords robe themselves,
and got into the Lords House in a corner neere the woolsack on wch
the Lord Chancellor sits next below the Throne ; the King sate in all
the regalia, the crown imperial on his head, the scepter and globe, &c.
The D. of Albemarle bare the sword, the D. of Ormond the cap of
dignity. The rest of the Lords robed and in their places : — a most
splendid and august convention. Then came the Speaker and the
House of Commons, and at the barr made a speech, and afterwards
presented severall bills, a nod onely passing them, the Cleark saying
Le Roy le veult, as to public bills ; as to private, Soitfaite comme il
est desirh. Then his Ma* made a handsome but short speech, com
manding my Lo. Privy Seale to prorogue the Parliam1, which he did,
the Chancellor being ill and absent. I had not before seene this
ceremony. 9. I went to receive the poore creatures that were saved out of the
London fregat, blowne up by accident with above 200 men.
29 Mar. Went to Goring House *, now Mr. Secretary Bennett's,
ill built, but the place capable of being made a pretty villa. His Ma*
was now finishing the Decoy in the Parke.
2 April. Took order about some prisoners sent from Capt. Allen's
ship, taken in the Solomon, viz. the brave man who defended her so
gallantly.
* On the site whereof Arlington Street is now built. There is a small print of this house.

I665.] 375
5. Was a day of public humiliation and for successe of this terrible
warr, begun doubtlesse at secret instigation of the French to weaken
the States and Protestant interest. Prodigious preparation's on both sides.
6. In the afternoone I saw acted " Mustapha," a tragedy written
by ye Earle of Orrery.
11. To London, being now left the onely Commissr to take all
necessary orders how to exchange, remove, and keepe prisoners, dis
pose of hospitalls, &c. the rest of the Commlssrs being gone to their
severall districts, in expectation of a suddaine engagement.
19. Invited to a greate dinner at the Trinity House, where I had
businesse with the Commissrs of the Navy', and to receive the second
^5,000. imprest for the service of the sick and wounded prisoners.
20. To White- hall to ye King, who called me into his bed chamber
as he was dressing, to whom I shew'd the letter written to me from
the Duke of York from the fleete, giving me notice of Young Evertson,
and some other considerable commanders newly taken in fight with ye
Dartmouth and Diamond frigats*, whom he had sent me as prisoners at
war ; I went to know of his Ma* how he would have me treate them,
* In the publication of the Life of King James II. from his own papers (printed 1816), after
describing the engagement with the Dutch fleet in 1665, he says, " Soon after this three Dutch men
of war, which had been seen for some time to the windward of us, and were looking out for their
own fleet, bore down in order to join it. One of them was a great ship of above 80 guns, which
for want of some repairs had been left by Cornelius Evertson to his son, with orders to follow ;
the other two were not of the same force. These being to windward, endeavoured to join the head
of their fleet, and young Evertson being a mettled man, and having a mind to distinguish himself,
resolved to run on board of the Plimouth, hoping to bear her down ; but Sir Tho. Allen, perceiv
ing by Evertson's working what his design was, brought his ship to at once, so that Evertson
miss'd his aim, tho' he came so near it that the yard-arms of both ships touch'd, and they gave
each other a severe broadside in passing ; after which Evertson and the other two made a shift to
join their own fleet, and Sir Tho. Allen continued leading as before, till finding himself extreamly
disabled, he was forced to ly by." P. 410. — " After this engagement was over, and the Dutch had
retired to their own ports, the Duke of York had brought back the English fleet to the Nore, he
took care to have his Scouts abroad, two of which, the Diamond Capt. Golding, and the Yarmouth
Capt. Ayliffe, being sent to observe the motions of the Dutch, they happened to meet With two of
the Direction Ships (as the Dutch call them) of 40 od guns each ; the biggest was commanded by
one Masters, the other by young Cornelius Evertson, who, tho' ours were of somewhat better
force, did not avoid engaging. At the first broadside Golding was slain ; but his Lieut. Davis
managed the fight so well, as did the Capt. of the Yarmouth, that after some hours dispute, both
the Dutch ships were taken, tho' bravely defended, for they lost many men and were very much

376 [1665.
when be commanded me to bring the young Captain to him, and to
take the word of the Dutch Ambass' (who yet remained here) for the
other, that he should render himself to me whenever I called on him,
and not stir without leave. Upon wch I desir'd more guards, the prison
being Chelsey House. I went also to Lord Arlington (the Secretary
Bennett lately made a Lord) about other businesse. Dined at my
Lord Chancellor's, none with him but Sr Sackville Crowe, formerly
Ambassr at Constantinople ; we were very chearfull and merry.
24. I presented young Capt. Evertson (eldest son of Cornelius, Vice
Admiral of Zealand, and nephew of John, now Admiral, a most valiant
person) to his Ma* in his bed chamber ; the King gave him his hand
to kisse, and restored him his liberty ; ask'd many questions concerning
the fight (it being ye first bloud drawne), his Ma* remembering the
many civilities he had formerly receiv'd from his relations abroad, who
had now so much interest in that considerable Province. Then I was
commanded to go with him to the Holland Ambassr, where he was to
stay for his passport, and I was to give him 50 pieces in broad gold.
Next day I had the Ambassrs parole for ye other Captain, taken in Capt.
Allen's fight before Cales. I gave the King an account of what I had
don, and afterwards ask'd yc same favour for another Captain, which
his Ma* gave me.
28 April. I went to Tunbridge, to see a solemn exercise at the free
schoole there*.
Having taken orders with my martial about my prisoners, and with
the doctor and chirurgeon to attend the wounded, enemies and of our

disabled before they struck. The Duke gave young Evertson his liberty f, in consideration of his
father Cornelius, who had performed severall services for the K. before his Restoration ; and his
R. H. freed also the other Captain for having defended himself so well, and made Lieut. Davis
Capt. of one of those prizes." P. 419.
* There is an annual visitation by the Skinners Company of London, who are the patrons, at
which verses, themes, &c. are spoken before them by the senior scholars. The Rev. Vicesimus
Knox (D. D. by an American University), author of many works, some of which have gone through
many editions, was master from about 1779 to 1812, when he resigned in favour of his son the
Rev. Thomas Knox.
t i. e. be recommended it to the King to do so, for we see be was sent to London and presented to the King
by Mr. Evelyn.

1665.] 377
owne men, 1 went to London again and visited my charge, severall
with legs and arms off; miserable objects God knows !
16 May. To London to consider of the poore orphans and widows
made by this bloudy beginning, and whose husbands and relations pe
rished in the London fregat, of which there were 50 widows, and 45
of them with child.
26. To treat with ye Holland Ambass1" at Chelsey for release of
divers prisoners of warr in Holland on exchange here. After dinner
being call'd into the Council Chamber at White-hall, I gave his Ma*
an account of what I had don, informing him of ye vast charge upon
us, now amounting to no less than ,^.1000 weekely.
29. I went with my little boy to visite my district in Kent, to make
up accompts with my officers. Visited the Governor at Dover Castle,
where were some of my prisoners.
3 June. In my return went to Graves-end ; the Fleets being just
now engaged, gave special orders for my officers to be ready to receive
the wounded and prisoners.
5. To London, to speak with his Ma* and the Duke of Albemarle
for horse and foote guards for the prisoners at warr, committed more
particularly to my charge by a Commission apart.
8. I went againe to his Grace, thence to the Council, and mov'd for
another privy seale for ^.20,000, and that I might have the disposal
of ye Savoy Hospital for the sick and wounded, all which was granted.
Hence to ye Royal Society to refreshe among ye Philosophers.
Came newes of his Highness's victory, which indeede might have
ben a compleate one, and at once ended ye warr, had it ben pursued,
but the cowardice of some, or treachery, or both, frustrated that. We
had however bonfires, bells and rejoicing in the Citty. Next day the
9th I had instant orders to repaire to the Downes, so as I got to Ro
chester this evening. Next day I lay at Deale, where I found all in
readinesse; but the Fleete being hindred by contrary winds I came away
on the 12th and went to Dover, and returned to Deale; and on the
13th hearing the Fleete was at Solebay, I went homeward, and lay at
Chatham, and the 14th I got home. On the 15th came the eldest son
of the present Secretary of State to the French King, with much other
vol. i. 3 c

378 [1665.
companie, to dine with me. After dinner I went with him to London,
to speake to my Lord Gen1 for more guards, and gave his Ma1 an ac
count of my journey to the Coasts under my inspection. I also waited
on his R: Highnesse, now come triumphant from the Fleete, gotten in to
repaire. See the whole history of this conflict in my History of ye
Dutch Warr.
20. To London, and represented the state of the sick and wounded
to his Ma* in Council, for want of mony ; he order'd I should apply to
my Lo. Treass' and Chancellor of the Exchequer, upon what funds to
raise the mony promised. We also presented to his Ma* divers expe
dients for retrenchment of ye eharge.
This evening making my court to the Duke, I spake to Monsr Co-
minges the French Ambass1", and his Highness granted me six pri
soners, Emdeners, who were desirous to go to the Barbados with a
merchant. 22. We waited on the Chanc1" of the Excheq1, and got an order of
Council for our mony to be paid to the Treasurer of the Navy for our
Receivers. 23. I din'd with Sr Rob* Paston since Earle of Yarmouth, and saw
the Duke of Verneuille base brother to the Q. Mother, a handsom old
man, a greate hunter.
The Duke of Yorke told us that when they were in fight, his dog
sought out absolutely ye very securest place in all ye vessell. — In the
afternoone I saw the pompous reception and audience of El Conde de
Molino, the Spanish Ambass1, in the Banquetting-house, both their
Maties sitting together under the canopy of state.
30. To Chatham ; and 1 July, to the Fleete with Lord Sandwich,
now Admiral, with whom I went in a pinnace to the Buoy of the Nore,
where the whole Fleete rod at anker ; went on board the Prince of 90
brasse ordnance, happly the best ship in the world both for building
and sailing ; she had 700 men. They made a greate huzza or shout at
our approch 3 times. Here we dined with many noblemen, gentlemen
and volunteers, served in plate and excellent meate of all sorts. After
dinner came his Majestie, the, Duke, and Prince Rupert. Here I saw
the King knight Capt. Custance for behaving so bravely in the late

1665.] 379
fight. It was surprizing to behold the good order, decency, and plenty
of all things in a vessell so full of men. The ship received an hundred
cannon shot in her body. Then I went on board the Charles, to which,
after a gun was shot off, came all the Flag-officers to his Ma*, who
there held a Generall Council, wch determin'd that his R. Highnesse
should adventure himselfe no more this Summer. I came away late,
having seene the most glorious Fleete that ever spread salles. We
returned in his Ma*'s yacht with my Lo. Sandwich and. Mr. Vice-
Chamberlaine, landing at Chatham on Sunday morning.
5 July. I tooke order for 150 men who had ben recovered of their
wounds, to be carried on-board the Clove Tree, Carolus Quintus, and
Zeland, .ships that had ben taken by us in the fight; and so re
turn'd home.
7- To London, to Sr Wm Coventrie ; and so to Sion, where his Ma*
sat at Council during the contagion ; when buisines was over, I viewed
that seate belonging to ye Earle of Northumberland, built out of an
old Nunnerie, of stone, and faire enough, but more celebrated for the
garden than it deserves ; yet there is excellent wall-fruit, and a pretty
fountaine ; nothing else extraordinarie.
9. I went to Hampton Court, where now the whole Court was,
to solicite for mony ; to carry intercepted letters ; confer again with
gr ^m Coventrie, the Duke's secretary ; and so home, having din'd
with Mr. Secretary Morice.
16 July. There died of the plague in London this weeke 1100,
and in the weeke following above 2000. 2 houses were shut up in
our parish.
2 Aug. A solemn fast thro' England to deprecate God's displeasure
against the land by pestilence and war ; our Dr. preaching on 26 Levit:
41, 42. that the meanes to obtaine remission of punishment was not to
repine at it, but humbly submit to it.
3. Came his Grace the Duke of Albemarle, L. Generall of all his
Majesties Forces, to visite me, and carried me to dine with him.
4. I went to Wotton to carry my sonn and his tutor Mr. Bohun,
Fellow of New Coll. (recommended to me by Dr. Wilkins and the
Pies* of New Coll. Oxfd), for feare of the pestilence, still increasing in

380 [1665.
London and its environs. On my returne I call'd at Durdans, where I
found Dr. Wilkins, Sr Wm Petty, and Mr. Hooke, contriving chariots,
new rigging for ships, a wheele for one to run races in, and other
mechanical inventions ; perhaps three such persons together were not
to be found elsewhere in Europe, for parts and ingenuity.
8. I waited on the D. of Albemarle, who was resolved to stay at
the Cock-pit in St. James's Parke. Died this week in London 4000.
15. There perished this week 5000.
28. The contagion still Increasing and growing now all about us,
I sent my wife and whole family (two or three necessary servants
excepted) to my brother's at Wotton, being resolved to stay, at my
house myselfe and to looke after my charge, trusting in the providence
and goodnesse of God.
5 Sept. To Chatham to inspect my charge, with 9001. in my coach.
7- Came home, there perishing neere 10,000 poore creatures weekly ;
however I went all along the Citty and suburbs from Kent Streete to
St. James's, a dismal passage, and dangerous to see so many coffines
expos'd in the streetes, now thin of people ; the shops shut up, and all
in mourneful silence, as not knowing whose turn might be next. 1
went to ye Duke of Albemarle for a pest-ship^ to wait on our infected
men, who were not a few.
14. I went to Wotton ; and on 16 Sept. to visite old Secretary
Nicholas, being now at his new purchase of West Horsley, once mort-
gag'd to me by Lord Vise1 Montagu : a pretty drie seate on yB Downe.
Return'd to Wotton.
17- Receiving a letter from Lord Sandwich of a defeate given to yfc
Dutch, I was forc'd to tra'vell all Sunday. I was exceedingly perplex'd
to find that neere 3000 prisoners were sent to me to dispose of, being
more than I had places fit to receive and guard.
25, My Lord Adm1 being come from ye fleete to Greenewich, I
went thence with him to ye Cock-pit to consult with the Duke of
Albemarle. I was peremptory that unlesse we had 10,000/. imme
diately, the prisoners would starve, and 'twas propos'd it should be
rais'd out of the E. India prizes nov/ taken by Lord Sandwich. They
being but two of ye Commission, and so not impower'd to determine,

1665-] 381
sent an expresse to his Ma* and Council to know what they should do.
In the meane time I had 5 vessells with competent guards to keepe the
prisoners in for ye present, to be placed as I should think best. After
dinner (wch was at the GenIs) I went over to visite his Grace the
A. Bishop of Canterbury at Lambeth.
28. To the Generall againe, to acquaint him of ya deplorable state
of our men for want of provisions ; return'd with orders.
29. To Erith to quicken. ye sale of ye prizes lying there, with order
to ye Commissr who lay on board till they should be dispos'd of, 5000/.
being proportion'd for my quarter. Then I deliver'd yc Dutch Vice
Adm1, who was my prisoner, to Mr. Lo.* of ye Marshalsea, he giving
me bond in 500/. to produce him at my call. I exceedingly pittied
this brave unhappy person, who had lost with these prizes 40,000/.
after 20 yeares negotiation [trading] in ye East Indies. I din'd in one
of these vessells, of 1200 tonns, full of riches.
1 October. This afternoone, whilst at evening prayers, tidings were
brought me of the birth of a daughter at Wotton, after six sonns, in
the same chamber I had first tooke breath in, and at the first day of that
moneth, as 1 was on the last, 45 yeares before. — 4. The monthly fast.
11. To London, and went thro' ye whole Citty, having occasion to
alight out of the coach in severall places about buisinesse of mony, when
1 was environ'd with multitudes of poore pestiferous creatures begging
almes ; the shops universaly shut up, a dreadful prospect ! I din'd
with my Lo. General ; was to receive 10,000/. and had guards to
convey both myselfe and it, and so returned home, thro' God's in
finite mercy.
17- I went to Gravesend, next day to Chatham, thence to Maid
stone, in order to yc march of 500 prisoners to Leeds Castle, which I
had hired of Lord Culpeper. I was earnestly desir'd by the learned
Sir Roger Twisden and Deputy Lieutenants to spare Maidstone from
quartering any of my sick flock. Here Sr Edw. Brett sent me some
horse to bring up yb reare. This country from Rochester to Maidstone
by the Medway and the Downs is very agreeable for the prospect.

* Mr. Lowman.

382 ll665-
21. I came from Gravesend, where Sir Jo. Griffith, the Governor
of the Fort, entertain'd me very handsomely.
31. I was this day 45 yeares of age, wonderfully preserved, for
which I blessed God for his infinite goodness towards me.
23 Nov. Went home, the contagion having now decreas'd considerably.
27- The Duke of Albemarle was going to Oxford, where both
Court and Parliament had ben most part of ye summer. There was no
small suspicion of my Lord Sandwich having permitted divers com
manders who were at ye taking of ye East India prizes, to break bulk
and take to themselves jewels, silkes, &c. : tho' I believe some whom I
could name fill'd their pockets, my Lo. Sandwich himselfe had the
least share. However he underwent the blame, and it created him
enemies, and prepossess'd ye Lo. Gen11, for he spake to me of it with
much zeale and concerne, and I believe laid load enough on Lo. Sand
wich at Oxford.
8 Dec. To my Lo. of Albemarle (now return'd from Oxon), who
was declar'd Generall at Sea, to ye no small mortification of that excel
lent person the Earle of Sandwich, whom ye Duke of Albemarle not
onely suspected faulty about ye prizes, but less valiant ; himselfe ima
gining how easie a thing it were to confound the Hollanders, as well
now as heretofore he fought against them upon a more disloyal interest.
25. Kept Christmas with my hospitable brother at Wotton.
30. To Woodcott, when I supp'd at my Lady Mordaunt's at
Ashted, where was a roome hung with Pintado, full of figures greate
and small, prettily representing sundry trades and occupations of ye
Indians, with their habits ; here supp'd also Dr. Duke, a learned and
facetious gentleman.
31. Now blessed, be God for his extraordinary mercies and pre
servation of me this yeare, when thousands and ten thousands perish'd
and were swept away on each side of me, there dying in our parish this
yeare 406 of ye pestilence !
1666. 3 Jan. I supp'd in None-such House*, whither the office of
* There is a small print of it in Speed's Map of Surrey, but a larger one by Hoefnagle in a
Collection of Views, some in England, but chiefly abroad. Mr. Lysons has copied this in his
" Environs of Lundon,'' edit. 1796, vol. T. p. 153.

1666.] 383
the Exchequer was transferr'd during the plague, at my good friend's
Mr, Packer's, and tooke an exact view of ye plaster statues and bass
relievos inserted 'twixt the timbers and punchions of the outside walles
of the Court ; which must needs have ben the work of some celebrated
Italian. I much admir'd how it had lasted so well and intire since the
time of Hen. VIII. expos'd as they are to the aire ; and pitty it is they
are not taken out and preserv'd in some drie place ; a gallerie would
become them. There are some mezzo-relievos as big as the life, the
storie is of ye Heathen Gods, emblems, compartments, &c. The Pa
lace consists of two courts, of which the first is of stone, castle-like,
by yc Lo. Lumlies (of whom 'twas purchas'd), ye other of timber, a
Gotiq fabric, but these walls incomparably beautified. I observ'd that
the appearing timber punchions, entrelices, &c. were all so cover'd with
scales of slate, that it seem'd carv'd in the wood and painted, ye slate
fastened on the timber in pretty figures, that has, like a coate of
armour, preserv'd it from rotting. There stand in the garden two
handsome stone pyramids, and the avenue planted with rows of faire
elmes, but the rest of these goodly trees, both of this and of Worcester
Park adjoyning, were fell'd by those destructive and avaricious rebells
in the late warr, wch defac'd one of the stateliest seates his Ma* had.
12. After much, and indeede extraordinary mirth and cheere, all
my brothers, our wives and children being together, and after much
sorrow and trouble during this Contagion, which seperated our families
as well as others, I returned to my house, but my wife went back to
Wotton, I not as yet willing to adventure her, the Contagion, tho'
exceedingly abated, not as yet wholy extinguished amongst us.
29. I went to waite on his Ma*, now return'd from Oxford to
Hampton Court, where the Duke of Albemarle presented me to him ;
he ran towards me, and in a most gracious manner gave me his hand to
kisse, with many thanks for my care and faithfullnesse in his service in
a time of such greate danger, when every body fled their employments ;
he told me he was much oblig'd to me, and said he was severall times
concern'd for me, and the peril I underwent, and did receive my service
most acceptably (tho' in truth I did but my duty, and O that I had
perform'd it as I ought !) After this his Ma* was pleas'd to talke with

384 W66.
me alone, neere an houre, of severall particulars of my employment,
and order'd me to attend him againe on the Thursday following at
Whitehall. Then the Duke came towards me, and embrac'd me with
much kindnesse, telling me if he had thought my danger would have
ben so greate, he would not have suffer'd his Ma* to employ me in
that station. Then came to salute me my Lo. of St. Albans, Lord
Arlington, Sir Wm. Coventrie, and severall greate persons; after which
I got home, not being very well iu health.
The Court was now in deepe mourning for the French Queene
Mother. 2 Feb. To London, his Ma* now come to White-hall, where I
heard and saw my Lo. Maior (and breathren) make his speech of well-
come, and the two Sheriffs were knighted.
6. My wife and family return'd to me from the country, where
they had ben since August, by reason of the contagion, now almost
universally ceasing. Blessed be God for his infinite mercy in preserv
ing us ! I having gone thro' so much danger, and lost so many of my
poore officers, escaping still myselfe, that I might live to recount and
magnifie his goodnesse to me.
8. I had another gracious reception by his Ma* who call'd me into
his bed-chamber, to lay before and describe to him my project of an
Infirmarie, wch I read to him, who with greate approbation, recom
mended it to his R. Highnesse.
20 Feb. To ye Commissrs of the Navy, who having seene the project
of the Infirmary, encourag'd the work, and were very earnest it should
be set about immediately ; but I saw no mony, tho' a very moderate
expense would have saved thousands to his Ma*, and ben much more
commodious for the cure and quartering our sick and wounded, than
the dispersing them into private houses, where many more chirurgeons
and attendants were necessary, and ye people tempted to debaucherie.
21. Went to my Lo. Treasrs for an assignm' of sSA0,000 upon ye
two last quarters for support of the next yeares charge. Next day to
Duke of Albemarle and Secretary of State, to desire them to propose it
to ye Council.
1 Mar. To London, and presented his Ma* my book intituled

1666.] 385
" The pernicious Consequences of the new Heresy of the Jesuits against
Kings and States." *
7- Dr. Sandcroft, since Abp. of Canterbury, preached before the
King about the identity and immutability of God, on 102 Psalm 27-
13. To Chatham, to view a place design'd for an Infirmarie.
15. My charge now amounted to neere a^.7000 [weekly.]
22. The Royal Society re-assembled after the dispersion from the
contagion. 24. Sent ^.2000 to Chatham.
1 Aprill. To London, to consult about ordering the natural rarities
belonging to ye repositorie of the Royall Society ; referred to a Com
mittee. 10. Visited Sr Wm D'Oylie, surprized with a fit of apoplexie, and
in extreame danger.
11. Dr. Bathurst preached before the King, from " I say unto you
all, watch" — a seasonable and most excellent discourse. When his
Ma* came from Chapell, he call'd to me in the Lobby, and told me he
must now have me sworn for a Justice of Peace (having long since
made me of the Commission), wch I declin'd as inconsistent with the
other service I was engag'd in, and humbly desired to be excused.
After dinner, waiting on him, I gave him the first notice of the Spa
niards referring the umpirage of the Peace 'twixt them and Portugal to
the French King, which came to me in a letter from France before ye
Secretaries of State had any newes of it. After this his Majestie againe
asked me if I had found out any able person about our parts that might
supply my place of Justice of Peace (the office in the world I had most
industriously avoided, in reguard of the perpetual trouble thereoff in
these numerous parishes), on wh I nominated one, whom the King
commanded me to give immediate notice of to my Ld Chancellor, and
I should be excus'd ; for which I rendered his Matie many thanks.-—
From thence I went to the R1 Society, where I was chosen by 27 voices
to be one of their Council for yc ensuing yeare ; but upon my earnest

* See before, p. 371.
vol. 1. 3d

386 1*666.
suite, in respect of my other affaires, I got to be excused ;— and so
home. 15. Our parish was now more infected with the plague than ever,
and so was all the countrie about, tho' almost quite ceas'd at London.
24. To London about our Mint Commission, and sat in the inner
Court of Wards.-
8 May. To Queenboro', where finding the Richmond Fregate, I
sail'd to the Buoy of the Nore to my Lo. Gen1, and Prince Rupert,
where was the rendezvous of the most glorious Fleet in the world, now
preparing to meete ye Hollander. — Went to visite my Co. Hales at a
sweetly-water'd place at Chilston neere Bockton. The next morning
to Leedes Castle, once a famous hold, now hired by me of my Lord
Culpeper for a prison. Here I flowed the drie moate, made a new
drawbridge, brought spring water into the court of ye castle to an old
fountaine, and tooke order for ye repaires.
22. Waited on my Lo. Chancellor at his" new palace ; and Lord
Berkeley's built next to it.
24. Dined with Lord Cornbury, now made L. Chamberlaine to the
Queene ; who kept a very honorable table. .
1 June. Being in my garden at 6 o'clock in the evening, and hear
ing ye greate gunns go thick off, I tooke horse, and rod that night to
Rochester; thence, next day towards ye Downes "and sea-coast, but
meeting ye Lieut1 of the Hampshire Fregat, who told me what pass'd,
or rather what had not pass'd, I return'd to London, there being no
noise or appearance at Deale, or on that coast, of any engagement.
Recounting this to his Ma*, whom I found at St. James's Park, im
patiently expecting, and- knowing that Prince Rupert was loose about
3,at St. Helen's Point at N. of the. Isle of Wight, it greately rejoic'd
him ; but he was astonish'd when I assur'd him they heard nothing of
the guns in ye Downs, nor did the Lieutenant, who landed there by 5
that morning.
3 June. Whitsunday. After sermon came newes that the Duke of
Albemarle was still in fight, and had ben all Saturday, and that Capt.
Harman's ship (the Henrie) was like to be burnt. Then a letter from
Mr. Bertie that Pr. Rupert was come up with his squadron (according

1666.] 387
to my former advice of his being loose and in the way), and put new
courage into our Fleete, now in a manner yielding ground, so that
now we were chasing the chasers ; that the Duke of Albemarle was
slightly wounded, and ye rest still in greate danger. So having ben
much wearied with my journey, I slipp'd home, the gunns still roaring
very fiercely.
5. I went this morning to London, where came severall particulars
of the fight.
6. Came Sr Dan. Harvey from the Gen11, and related the dreadfull
encounter, on which his Ma* commanded me to dispatch an extraordi
nary physitian and more chirurgeons. 'Twas on the solemn fast day
when ye newes came ; his Ma* being in the Chapell, made a suddaine
stop to heare the relation, which being with much advantage on our
side, his Ma* commanded that publiq thanks should immediately be
given as for a victory. The Deane of the Chapell going down to give
notice of it to the other Deane officiating; and notice was likewise sent
to St. Paul's and Westminster Abby. But this was no sooner over,
than newes came that our losse was very greate both in ships and men;
that the Prince fregat was burnt, and as noble a vessell of 90 brass guns
lost, and ye taking of Sr Geo. Ayscue, and exceeding shattering of both
Fleetes, so as both being obstinate, both parted rather for want of am
munition and tackle than courage, our Gen11 retreating like a lyon ;
which exceedingly abated of our former joy. There was however
order given for bonfires and bells ; but God knows it was rather a deli
verance than a triumph. So much it pleas'd God to humble our late
over-confidence that nothing could withstand ye Duke of Albemarle,
who in good truth made too forward a reckoning of his successe now,
because he had once beaten the Dutch in another quarrell, and being
ambitious to outdo the Earle of Sandwich, whom he had prejudicated
as deficient in courage.
7. I sent more chirurgeons, linnen, medicaments, &c. to the seve
rall ports in my district.
8. Dined with me Sir Alexr Fraser, prime physitian to his Matie ;
afterwards went on board his Ma*'s pleasure -boate, when I saw the
London Frigate launch'd, a most stately ship, built by yc Citty to

388 I1666-
supply that which was burnt by accident some time since. The King,
Lord Maior and Sheriffs, being there with a greate banquet.
11. Trinity Monday, after a sermon, applied to the re-meeting of
the Corporation of the Trinity House after the late raging and wasting
pestilence : I dined with them in their new roome in Deptford, the first
time since it was rebuilt.
15. I went to Chatham. — 16. In the Jemmy Yactht (an incom
parable sailer) to sea, ariv'd by noone at the Fleete at the Buoy of the
Nore, din'd with Prince Rupert and the Generall.
17. Came his Ma*, the Duke, and many Noblemen. After Council
we went to prayers. My business being dispatcb'd, I return'd to Chat
ham, having layne but one night in the Royal Charles ; we had a tem
pestuous sea. I went on shore at Sheerness, where they were building
an arsenal for the Fleete, and designing a royal fort with a receptacle
for greate ships to ride at anker ; but here I beheld ye sad spectacle,
more than halfe that gallant bulwark of the kingdom miserably shat-
ter'd, hardly a vessell intire, but appearing rather so many wrecks and
hulls, so cruely had the Dutch mangl'd us. The losse of yB Prince,
that gallant vessell, had ben a loss to be universally deplor'd, none
knowing for what reason we first engag'd in this ungrateful warr ; we
lost besides 9 or 10 more, and neere 600 men slaine and 1100 wounded,
2000 prisoners ; to ballance which perhaps we might destroy 18 or 20
of the enemies ships, and 7 or 800 poore men.
18. Weary of this sad sight I return'd home.
2 July. Came Sr Jo. Duncomb* and Mr. Thos Chichley, both Privy
Councillors and Commissrs of his Ma*'s Ordnance, to visite me and let
me know that his Ma* had in Council nominated me to be one of the
Commissrs for regulating ye farming and making of Saltpetre thro' the
whole kingdom, and that we were to sit in ye Tower the next day.
When they were gone, came to see me Sir Jo. Cotton, heir to the

* " Duncomb was a judicious man, but very haughty, and apt to raise enemies against himself.
He was an able Parliament man, but could not go into all the designs of the Court, for he had a
sense of religion, and a zeal for the liberty of his country." Bp. Burnet's Hist, of his Own Times,
folio, vol. I. p. 265.

1666.] 389
famous Antiquary Sir Rob1 Cotton : a pretended greate Grecian, but
had by no meanes the par,ts or genius of his grandfather.
3. I went to sit with ye Commissrs at the Tower, where our Com
mission being read, we made some progresse in businesse, our Secre
tary being Sir Geo. Wharton, that famous mathematician who writ ye
yearly Almanac during his Ma*'s troubles. Thence to Painters Hall,
to our other Commission, and dined at my Lo. Maior's.
4. The solemn Fast Day. Dr Megot preach'd an excellent dis
course before the King on the terrors of God's judgements. After ser
mon I waited on my Ld Abp. of Canterbury and Bp. of Winchester,
where the Deane of Westm1 spake to me about putting into my hands
the disposal of ^.50 which the charitable people at Oxford had sent to
be distributed among the sick and wounded seamen since ye battaile.
Hence I went to yc Lord Chancellor's, to joy him of his Royal High
nesses second sonne now born at St. James's, and to desire ye use of ye
Star Chamber for our Commissrs to meete in, Painters Hall not being so
convenient. 12 July. We sat ye first time in ye Star Chamber. There was now
added to our Commission Sir Geo. Downing (one that had ben a great
. . . against his Ma* but now insinuated into his favour, and from a
pedagogue and fanatic preacher not worth a groate had become exces
sive rich) to inspect the hospitals and treate about prisons.
14. Sat at the Tower with Sir J. Duncomb and Lo. Berkeley to
signe deputations for undertakers to furnish their proportions of saltpetre.
17- To London to prepare for ye next engagement of yc Fleetes,
now gotten to sea againe.
22. Our parish still infected with the contagion.
25. The Fleetes engag'd. I dined at Ld Berkeley's at St. James's,
where din'd my Lady Harrietta Hyde, Ld Arlington, & Sr John
Duncomb. 29. The pestilence now afresh increasing in our parish, I forbore
going to church. In the afternoone came tidings of our victorie over the
Dutch, sinking some and driving others aground and into their ports.
1 Aug. I went to Dr. Keffler, who married ye daughter of ye famous
chymist Drebbell, inventor of ye boedied scarlet. I went to see his

390 ll66e-
yron ovens, made portable (formerly) for the Pr. of Orange's army :
supp'd at the Rhenish Wine House with divers Scots gentlemen.
6. Dined with Mr. Povey, and then went with him to see a coun
try-house he had bought neere Brainford ; returning by Kensington,
which house stands to a very graceful avenue of trees, but 'tis an ordi
nary building, especialy one part.
8. Dined at Sr Stephen Fox's with severall friends, and on the 10th
with Mr. Odart, Secretary of the Latine tongue.
17. Din'd with the Lo. Chancellor, whom I entreated to visite the
Hospital of the Savoy, and reduce it (after ye greate abuse that had ben
continu'd) to its original institution for ye benefit of the poore, which
he promis'd to do.
25. Waited on Sr Wm D'Oylie, now recover'd as it were'miracu-
lously. In the afternoone visited the Savoy Hospital ; where I staled
to see the miserably dismember'd and wounded men dressed, and gave
some necessary orders. Then to my Lo. Chancellor, who had, with
the Bishop of London and others in the Commission, chosen me one
of the three Surveyors of the repaires of Paules, and to consider of a
model for the new building, or, if it might be, repairing of the steeple,
which was most decay'd.
26 Aug. The Contagion still continuing, we had the Church service
at home.
27- I went to St. Paule's Church, where with Dr. Wren, Mr.
Prat, Mr. May, Mr. Tho' Chichley, Mr. Slingsby, the Bishop of
London, the Deane * of St. Paule's, and several expert workmen, we
went about to survey lhe generall decays of that ancient and venerable
church, and to set downe in writing the particulars of what was fit to
be don, with the charge thereof, giving our opinion from article to
article. Finding the maine building to recede outwards, it was the
opinion of Mr. Chichley and Mr. Prat that it had ben so built ab
origine for an effect in perspective, in reguard of the height ; but I
was, with Dr. Wren, quite of another judgment, and so we entered it;
Ave plumb'd the uprights in severall places. When we came to the stee-
* Dr. Sancroft, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury.

1666.] 391
pie, jt was deliberated whether it were not well enough to repaire it
onely on its old foundation, with reservation to the 4 pillars ; this Mr.
Chichley and Mr. Prat were also for, but we totaly rejected it, and per
sisted that it requir'd a new foundation, not onely in reguard of the ne-
cessitie, but for that the shape of what stood was very meane, and we
had a mind to build it with a noble cupola, a forme of church-building
not as yet known in England, but of wonderfull grace : for this purpose
we offer'd to bring in a plan and estimate, which, after much contest,
was at last assented to, and that we should nominate a Committee of
able workemen to examine the present foundation. This concluded, we
drew all up in writing, and so went with my Lord Bishop to the Deanes.
28. Sate at the .Star Chamber. Next day to the R1. Society, where
one Mercator, an excellent mathematician, produced his rare clock &
new motion to performe the equations, and MrRookehis new pendulum.
2 Sept. This fatal night about ten, began that deplorable fire neere
Fish Streete in London.
3. I had public prayers at home. The fire continuing, after dinner <
I took coach with my wife and sonn and went to the Bank side in South-
wark, where we beheld that dismal spectacle, the whole Citty in dread-
full flames neare the water side ; all the houses from the Bridge, all
Thames Street, and upwards towards Cheapeside, downe to the Three
Cranes, were now consum'd : and so returned exceedinge astonished what
would become of the rest.
The fire having continu'd all this night (if I may call that night
which was light as day for 10 miles round about, after a dreadful 1 man
ner) when conspiring with a fierce Eastern wind in a very drie season ;
I went on foote to the same place, and saw ye whole South part of ye
Citty burning from Cheapeside to ye Thames, and all along Cornehill
(for it likewise kindl'd back against ye wind as well as forward), Tower
Streete, Fen-church Streete, Gracious Streete, and so along to Bai-
nard's Castle, and was now taking hold of St. Paule's Church, to which
the scaffolds contributed exceedingly. The conflagration was so uni
versal, and the people so astonish'd, that from the beginning, I know
not by what despondency or fate, they hardly stirr'd to quench it, so
that there was nothing heard or seene but crying out and lamentation,

392 1*666.
running about like distracted creatures, without at all attempting to save
even their goods ; such a strange consternation there was upon them, so
as it burned both in breadth and length, the Churches, Publiq Halls,
Exchange, Hospitals, Monuments, and ornaments, leaping after a
prodigious manner from house to house and streete to streete, at greate
distances one from ye other; for ye heate with a long set of faire and
warme weather had even ignited the aire and prepar'd the materials to
conceive the fire, which devour'd after an incredible manner houses,
furniture, and every thing. Here we saw the Thames cover'd with
goods floating, all the barges and boates laden with what some had time
and courage to save, as, on yu other, ye carts, &c. carrying out to the
fields, which for many miles were strew'd with moveables of all sorts,
and' tents erecting to shelter both people and what goods they could get
away. Oh the miserable and calamitous spectacle ! such as happly the
world had not seene the like since the foundation of it, nor be outdon
till the universal conflagration of it. All the skie was of a fiery aspect,
like the top of a burning oven, and the light seene above 40 miles round
about for many nights. God grant mine eyes may never behold the
like, who now saw above 10,000 houses all in one flame ; the noise and
cracking and thunder of the impetuous flames, ye shreiking of women
and children, the hurry of people, the fall of Towers, Houses and
Churches, was like an hideous storme, and the aire all about so hot and
inflam'd that at the last one was not able to approch it, so that they
were forc'd to stand still and let ye flames burn on, which they did for
neere two miles in length and one in bredth. The -clowds also of
smoke were dismall and reach'd upon computation neer 50 miles in
length. Thus I left it this 'afternoone burning, a resemblance of Sodom,
or the last day. It forcibly call'd to my mind that passage — non enim
liic habemus stabilem civitatem t- the ruines resembling the picture of
Troy. London was, but is no more ! Thus I returned.
Sept. 4. The burning still rages, and it was now gotten as far as the
Inner Temple ; all Fleet Streete, the Old Bailey, Ludgate Hill, War
wick Lane, Newgate, Paules Chaine, Watling Streete, now flaming,
and most of it reduc'd to ashes ; the stones of Paules flew like granados,
ye mealting lead running downe the streetes in a streame, and the very

1666.] 393
pavements glowing with fiery rednesse, so as no horse nor man was
able to tread on them, and the demolition had stopp'd all the passages,
so that no help could be applied. The Eastern wind still more impe
tuously driving the flames forward. Nothing but ye Almighty power
of God was able to stop them, for vaine was ye help of man.
5. It crossed towards White-hall; but oh, the confusion there was
then at that Court ! It pleas'd his Ma* to command me among yc rest
to looke after the quenching of Fetter Lane end, to preserve if possible
that part of Holborn whilst the rest of ye gentlemen tooke their several
posts, some at one part, some at another (for now they began to bestir
themselves, and not till now, who hitherto had stood as men intoxicated,
with their hands acrosse) and began to consider that nothing was likely
to put a stop but the blowing up of so many houses as might make a,'
wider gap than any had yet ben made by the ordinary method of pulling
them downe with engines ; this some stout seamen propos'd early
enough to have sav'd neare ye whole Citty, but this some tenacious and*
avaritious men, aldermen, &c. would not permitt, because their houses
must have ben of the first. It was therefore now commanded to be
practic'd, and my concerne being particularly for the Hospital of St.
Bartholomew neere Smithfield, where I had many wounded and sick
men, made me the more diligent to promote it ; nor was my care for
the Savoy lesse. It now pleas'd God by abating the wind, and by the
industrle of yc people, when almost all was lost, infusing a new spirit
into them, that the furie of it began sensibly to abate about noone, so
as it came no farther than ye Temple Westward, nor than ye entrance of
Smithfield North : but continu'd all this day and night so impetuous
toward Cripple-gate and the Tower as made us all despaire ; it also
brake out againe in the Temple, but the courage of the multitude per
sisting, and many houses being blown up, such gaps and desolations
were soone made, as with the former three days consumption, the back
fire did not so vehemently urge upon the rest as formerly. There was
yet no standing neere the burning and glowing ruines by neere a fur
longs space.
The coale and wood wharfes and magazines of oyle, rosin, &c. did
infinite mischeife, so as the invective which a little before I had dedi-
vol. i. 3 E

394 [1666.
cated to his Ma* and publish'd *, giving warning what might probably
be the issue of suffering those shops to be in the Citty, was look'd on as
a prophecy. The poore inhabitants were dispers'd about St. George's Fields, and
Moorefields, as far as Highgate, and severall miles in circle, some under
tents, some under miserable *hutts and hovells, many without a rag or
any necessary utensills, bed or board, who from delicatenesse, riches,
and easy accomodations in stately and well furnish'd houses, were now
reduc'd to extreamest misery and poverty.
In this calamitous condition I return'd with a sad heart to my house,
blessing and adoring the distinguishing mercy of God to me and mine,
who in the midst of all this ruine was like Lot, in my little Zoar, safe
and sound.
Sept. 6, Thursday. I represented to his Ma* the case of the French
prisoners at war in my custodie, and besought him that there might be
still the same care of watching at all places contiguous to unseised
houses. It is not indeede imaginable how extraordinary the vigilance
and activity of the King and the Duke was, even labouring in person,
and being present to command, order, reward, or encourage workmen,
by which he shewed his affection to his people and gained theirs.
Having then dispos'd of some under cure at the Savoy, I return'd to
White-hall, where I din'd at Mr. Offley's f, the groome porter, who
was my relation.
7. I went this morning on foote from White-hall as far as London
Bridge, thro' the late Fleete Street, Ludgate Hill, by St. Paules,
Cheapeside, Exchange, Bishopsgate, Aldersgate, and out to Moore
fields, thence thro' Corriehill, &c. with extraordinary difficulty, clam
bering over heaps of yet smoking rubbish, and frequently mistaking
where I was. The ground under my feete so hot, that it even burnt
the soles of my shoes. In the mean time his Majesty got to the Tower
by water, to demolish y£ houses about the graff, which being built

* The Fumifugium. See p. 339,
t Dr. Offley was rector, of Abinger, and donor of farms to Okewood Chapel in the parish of Wot
ton, in the patronage of the Evelyn family.

1666.] 395
intirely about it, had they taken fire and attack'd the White Tower
where the magazine of powder lay, would undoubtedly not only have
beaten downe and destroy'd all ye bridge, but sunke and torne the
vessells in ye river, and render'd ye demolition beyond all expression for
several miles about the countrey.
At my returne I was infinitely concern'd to find that goodly Church
St. Paules now a sad ruine, and that beautifull portico (for structure
comparable to any in Europe, as not long before repair'd by. the late
King) now rent in pieces, flakes of vast stone split asunder, and no
thing remaining intire but the inscription in the architrave, shewing by
whom it was built, which had not one letter of it defac'd. It was
astonishing to see what immense stones the heate had in a manner
calcin'd, so that all ye ornaments, columns, freezes, capitals, and pro-
jectures of massie Portland stone flew off, even to ye very roofe, where a
sheet of lead covering a great space (no lesse than 6 akers by measure)
was totally mealted ; the ruines of the vaulted roofe falling broke into
St. Faith's, which being fill'd with the magazines of bookes belonging
to yc Stationers, and carried thither for safety, they were all consum'd,
burning for a weeke following. It is also observable that the lead over
ye altar at ye East end was untouch'd, and among the divers monu
ments, the body of one Bishop remain'd intire. Thus lay in ashes that
most venerable Church, one of the most antient pieces of early piety in
yc Christian world, besides neere 100 more. The lead, yron worke,
bells, plate, &c. mealted ; the exquisitely wrought Mercers Chapell,
the sumptuous Exchange, ye august fabriq of Christ Church, all yc rest
of the Companies Halls, splendid buildings, arches, enteries, all in dust ;
the fountaines dried up and ruin'd, whilst the very waters remain'd
boiling; the voragos of subterranean cellars, wells, and dungeons, for
merly warehouses, still burning in stench and dark clowds of smoke, so
that in five or six miles traversing about, I did not see one loade of
timber unconsum'd, nor many stones but what were calcin'd white as
snow. The people who now walk'd about y* ruines appear'd like men
in some dismal desart, or rather 4n some greate Citty laid waste by a
cruel enemy; to which was added the stench that came from some
poore creatures bodies, beds, and other combustible goods. Sir Tho.

396 [1666.
Gressham's statue, tho' fallen from its nich in the Royal Exchange,
remain'd intire, when all those of ye Kings since ye Conquest were
broken to pieces ; also the standard in Comehill, and Q. Elizabeth's
effigies, with some armes on Ludgate, continued with but little detri
ment, whilst the vast yron chaines of the Citty streetes, hinges, barrs
and gates of prisons were many of them mealted and reduced to cinders
by ye vehement heate. Nor was 1 yet able to passe through any of the
narrower streetes, but kept the widest ; the ground and air, smoake and
fiery vapour, continu'd so intense that my haire was almost sing'd, and
my feete unsufferably surbated. The bie lanes and narrower streetes
were quite fill'd up with rubbish, nor could one have possibly knowne
where he was, but by ye ruines of some Church or Hall, that had some
remarkable tower or pinnacle remaining. I then went towards Isling
ton and Highgate, where one might have seene 200,000 people of all
ranks and degrees dispers'd and lying along by their heapes of what
they could save from the fire, deploring their losse, and tho' ready to
perish for hunger and destitution, yet not asking one penny for reliefe,
which to me appear'd a stranger sight than any I had yet beheld. His
Majesty and Council indeede tooke all imaginable care for their reliefe
by proclamation for the country to come in and refresh them with pro
visions. In yc midst of all this calamity and confusion, there was, I
know not how, an alarme begun that the French and Dutch, with
whom we were now in hostility, were not onely landed, but even en
tering the Citty. There was in truth some days before greate suspicion
of those two nations joyning ; and now, that they had ben the occasion
of firing the towne. This report did so terrifie, that. on a suddaine
there was such an uproare and tumult that they ran from their goods,
and taking what weapons they could come at, they could not be stopp'd
from falling on some of those nations whom they casualy met, without
sense or reason. The clamor and peril grew so excessive that it made
the whole Court amaz'd, and they did with infinite paines and greate
difficulty reduce and appease the people, sending troops of soldiers and
guards to cause them to retire into ye fields againe, where they were
watch'd all this night. I left them pretty quiet, and came home suffi
ciently weary and broken. Their spirits thus a little calmed, and the

1666.] 397
affright abated, they now began to repaire into ye suburbs about the
Citty, where such as had friends or opportunity got shelter for the pre
sent, to which his Mat/3 Proclamation also invited them.
Still ye plague continuing in our parish, I could not without danger
adventure to our church.
10. I went againe to y^ ruines, for it was now no longer a Citty.
13 Sept. I presented his Ma* with a survey of the ruines, and a
plot for a new Citty*, with a discourse on it; whereupon after dinner
his Ma* sent for me into the Queene's bed-chamber, her Ma* and ye
Duke onely being present ; they examin'd each particular, and dls-
cours'd on them for neere an houre, seeming to be extreamly pleas'd
with what I had so early thought on. The Queene was now in her
cavalier riding habite, hat and feather, and horseman's coate, going
to take the aire.
16. I went to Greenewich Church, where Mr. Plume preached very
well from this text : " Seeing therefore all these things must be dis
solved," &c. taking occasion from ye late unparalell'd conflagration to
mind us how we ought to walke more holyly in all manner of con
versation. 27. Dined at Sir Wm D'Oylie's, with that worthy gent. Sr John
Holland of Suffolke.
10 Oct. This day was order'd a generall fast thro' the Nation, to
humble us on ye late dreadfull conflagration, added to the plague and
warr, the most dismall judgments that could be inflicted, but which
indeede we highly deserv'd for our prodigious ingratitude, burning
* See a letter of Mr. Evelyn to Sir Samuel Tuke on the subject of the Fire, and his plan for
rebuilding the City, in vol. II. pp. 170 — 172. Part of this plan was to lessen the declivities, and
to employ the rubbish in filling up the shore of the Thames to low water mark, so as to keep the
Basin always full. — In a letter to Mr. Oldenburg, Secretary to the Royal Society, 22 Dec. 1666,
he says, after mentioning the presenting his reflections on re-building the City to his Ma'y, that <
" the want of a more exact pint, wherein I might have marked what the Fire had spared, and
accommodated my designe to the remaining parts, made me take it as a rasa tabula, and to forme
mine idea thereof accordingly : I have since lighted upon Mr. Hollar's late Plan, which looking
upon as the most accurate hitherto extant, has caus'd me something to alter what I had so crudely
don, though for the most part I still persist in my former discourse, and wiche I heare send you
as compleate as an imperfect copy will give me leave, and the suppliment of an ill memory, for
since that tyme I hardly euer look'd on it, and it was finish'd within two or three dayes after the
Incendium."

398 [1666.
lusts, dissolute Court, profane and abominable lives, under such dispen
sations of God's continu'd favour in restoring Church, Prince, and
People from our late intestine calamities, of which we were altogether
unmindful!, even to astonishment. This made me resolve to go to our
parish assemblie, where our Doctor preached on ye 19 Luke 41, piously
applying it to the occasion. After wch was a collection for ye distress'd
loosers in the late fire.
18. To Court. It being ye first time his Ma* put himself
solemnly into the Eastern fashion of vest, changeing doublet, stiff
collar, bands and cloake, into a comely vest, after y" Persian mode,
with girdle or straps, and shoe strings and garters into bouckles, of
which some were set with precious stones*, resolving never to alter it,
and to leave the French mode, which had hitherto obtain'd to our
greate expence and reproch. Upon which divers courtiers and gentle
men gave his Ma* gold by way of wager that he would not persist in
this resolution. I had sometime before presented an invective against
that unconstancy, and our so much affecting the French fashion, to his
Ma*, in which I tooke occasion to describe the comelinesse and useful-
nesse of the Persian clothing, in yc very same manner his Ma* now clad
himselfe. This pamphlet I intitl'd " Tyrannus, or the Mode," and
gave it to his Ma* to reade. I do not impute to this discourse the
change which soone happen'd, but it was an identity that I could not
but take notice of.
This night was acted my Lord Broghill's-f" tragedy call'd " Mus-
tapha" before their Maties at Court, at which I was present, very sel
dom going to the publiq theaters for many reasons, now as they were
abused to an atheistical liberty, fowle and undecent women now (and
never till now) permitted to appeare and act, who inflaming severall
young noblemen and gallants, became their misses, and to some their
•wives J; witness ye Earl of Oxford, Sir R. Howard, P. Rupert, the
* It would be curious to see a portrait of the King in this costume, which was however shortly
after abandoned and laid aside.
f Richard Lord Broghill, created shortly after this Earl of Orrery; he wrote several other plays
besides that here noticed.
J Mrs. Margaret Hughes, Nell Gwynn, who left the Earl for his Majesty, to whom were added
Mrs. Davis and Mrs. Knight.

1666.] 399
Earle of Dorset, and another greater person than any of them, who
fell into their snares, to ye reproch of their noble families, and mine of
both body and soule, I was invited by my Lo. Chamberlaine to see
this tragedy, exceedingly well written, tho' in my mind I did not ap
prove of any such pastime in a season of such judgments and calamities.
21. This season, after so long and extraordinarie a.drowth in Au
gust and September, as if preparatory for the dreadfull fire, was so
very wett and rainy as many feared an ensuing famine.
28. The pestilence, thro' God's mercy, began now to abate con
siderably in our towne.
30. To London to our office, and now had I on the vest and sur-
coat or tunic as 'twas call'd, after his Ma* had brought the whole Court
to it. It was a comely and manly habit, too good to hold, it being
impossible for us in good earnest to leave ye Monsieurs vanities long.
31. I heard the signal cause of my Ld Cleaveland pleaded before
the House of Lords, and was this day 46 yeares of age, wonderfully pro
tected by the mercies of God, for which I render him immortal thanks.
14 Nov. I went my winter circle thro' my district, Rochester & other
places, where I had men quarter'd and in custody. — 15. To Leeds Castle.
16. I muster'd yfc prisoners being about 600 Dutch and French,
order'd their proportion of bread to be augmented, and provided cloaths
and fuell. Monsr Colbert, Ambass1" at the Court of England, this day
sent mony from his master the French King to every prisoner of that
nation under my guard.
17. I return'd to Chatham. My chariott overturning on the
steepe of Bexley Hill, wounded me in two places on the head; my sonn
Jack being with me was like to have ben worse cutt by the glasse ; but
I thanke God we both escaped without much hurt, tho' not without
exceeding danger. — 18. At Rochester. — 19. Return'd home.
23. At London I heard an extraordinary case before a Committee of
the whole House of Commons, in the Commons House of Parliament,
between one Capt. Taylor and my Lo. Vise* Mordaunt *, where after
the lawyers had pleaded, and the witnesses ben examin'd, such foul

* See the whole proceedings in this affair in the Journals of Lords and Commons under this year.

400 [1666.
and dishonourable things were produc'd against his Lordship, of ty
ranny during his government of Windsor Castle, of wch he was Con
stable, incontinence, and suborning witnesses (of which last one Sr
Richard Breames was most concerned), that I was exceedingly interested
for his Lordship, who was my special friend, and husband of the most
virtuous lady in the world. We sate till neere 10 at night, and yet but
halfe the Council had don on behalfe of ye Plaintiffe. The question
then was put for bringing iu of lights to sit longer ; this lasted so long
before it was determin'd, and rais'd such a confus'd noise among the
Members, that a stranger would have ben astonish'd at it. I admire
that there is not a rationale to regulate such trifling accidents, which
consume a world of time, and is a reproch to the gravity of so greate
an assembly of sober men.
27. Sir Hugh Pollard, Comptroller of the Household, died at
White-hall, and his Ma* conferr'd the white staffe on my brother Corn-
miss1" for sick and wounded, Sr Tho. Clifford *, a bold young gentle
man, of a small fortune in Devon, but advanc'd by Lo. Arlington,
Seer, of State, to ye greate astonishment of all the Court. This gen
tleman was somewhat related to me by ye marriage of his mother to
my neerest kinsman Gregory Coale f, and was ever my noble friend,
a valiant and daring person, but by no means fit for a supple and flat
tering courtier.
28. Went to see Clarendon House +, now almost finish'd, a goodly
pile to see to, but had many defects as to ye architecture, yet plac'd
most gracefully. After this I waited on the Ld Chancellor, who was now
at Berkshire House §, since the burning of London.

* Afterwards Lord Treasurer.
t Of this gentleman and his family, seated at Petersham in Surrey, see Hist, of that County,
vol. I. pp. 439, 441, but his connection with the Evelyns does not appear.
X Since quite demolished : see hereafter. It was situated where Albemarle Street now is. After
Lord Clarendon's exile, the Duke of Albemarle occupied this noble mansion, of which there are
two engraved views at least, one a small one by John Dunstall, and another upon a very large
scale by J. Spilbergh.
§ Berkshire or Cleaveland House belonged to the Howards Earls of Berkshire, and stood very
near the royal residence. It was afterwards purchased and presented by Charles II. to Barbara
Dutchess of Cleveland. It was then of great extent ; she however afterwards sold part, which was
built into various houses.

1667.] 401
2 Dec. Din'd with me Monsr Kiviet, a Dutch gent™ pensioner of
Roterdam, who came over for protection, being of the Prince of
Orange's party, now not wellcome in Holland. The King knighted
him for some merit in ye Prince's behalf. He should, if caught, have
ben beheaded with Monsr Buat, and was brother-in-law to Van Tromp,
the Sea Generall. With him came Mr. Gabriel Sylvius*, and Mr.
Williamson* Secretarie to Lord Arlington; Sr Kiviet came to exa
mine whether the soile about the river of Thames would be proper to
make clinker-bricks, and to treate with me about some accomodation in
order to it -f\
1667- 9 Jan- To the Royal Society, which since ye sad conflagra
tion were invited by Mr. Howard to sit at Arundel House in the Strand,
who at my instigation likewise bestow'd on the Society that noble li
brary which his grandfather especialy, and his ancestors had collected.
This gentleman had so little inclination to bookes, that it was the pre
servation of them from imbezzlement.
24. Visited my Lo. Chancellor, and presented my son John to him,
now preparing to go to Oxford, of which his Lordship was Chancellor.
This evening I heard rare Italian voices, two eunuchs and one woman,
in his Ma*s greene chamber next his cabinet.
29 Jan. To London in order to my son's Oxford journey, who
being very early enter'd both In Latin and Greek, and prompt to learn
beyond most of his age, I was persuaded to trust him under ye tutorage
of Mr. Bohun, fellow of New College, who had ben his preceptor in
my house some years before ; but at Oxford under ye inspection of Dr.
Bathurst, President of Trinity Coll., where I plac'd him, not as yet
13 years old. He was newly out of long coates J.
15 Feb. My little booke in answer to Sir Geo. Mackenzie on Soli
tude, was now published, intitled, " Public Employment and an active
Life with its Appanages preferred to Solitude." §
* More is said of these gentlemen afterwards. f See pp. 402, 409.
X At the Swan Inn at Letherhead in Surrey is a picture of 4 children, dates of birth between
1640 and 1650; one of them is a boy about this age, in a coat or vest, reaching almost to his
ancles. § In a letter to Mr. Cowley 12 Mar. 1666 he apologizes for having written against that life,
which he had joined with Mr. Cowley in so much admiring, assuring him he neither was, nor
could be, serious.
VOL. i. 3f

402 [l667-
19. I saw a comedy acted at Court. In the afternoone I saw a
wrestling-match for sg.1000 in St. James's Park, before his Ma*, a
world of lords and other spectators, 'twixt the Western and Northern
men, Mr. Secretary Morice and Lo. Gerard being the judges. The
Western men won. Many greate sums were betted.
18. I saw a magnificent ball or masque in the Theater at Court,
where their Maties and all the greate Lords and Ladies daunced, infi
nitely gallant, the men in their richly embrodred most becoming vests.
6 March. I proposed to my Lo. Chancellor Monsr Kiviet's under
taking to warfe the whole river of Thames, or Key, from the Temple
to the Tower, as far as ye fire destroied, with brick, without piles, both
lasting and ornamental*. — Great frosts, snow and winds, prodigious at
the vernal equinox ; indeede it had ben a yeare of prodigies in this na
tion, plague, warr, fire, rains, tempest, and comet.
14. Saw " The Virgin Queene," a play written by Mr. Dryden.
22. Din'd at Mr. Sec. Morice's, who shew'd me his library, wch
was a well-chosen collection. This afternoone I had audience of his
Ma* concerning the proposal I had made of building the Key.
26. S' John Kiviet din'd with me. We went to search for brick
earth in order to a greate undertaking.
4 April. The cold so intense that there was hardly a leaf on a tree.
18. 1 went to make court to the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle
at their house at Clerkenwell -f~, being newly come out of the North.
They receiv'd me with great kindnesse, and I was much pleas'd with
the extraordinary fanciful habit, garb, and discourse of the Dutchess.
22. Saw the sumptuous supper in the Banquetting-house at White
hall on the eve of St. George's day, where were all the Companions of
the Order of the. Garter.
23. In the morning his Ma* went to Chapell with the Knights of
the Garter all in their habits and robes, usher'd by ye Heraulds ; after
the first service they went in procession, the youngest first, the Sove-
* See pp. 401, 409.
f The Duke spent a princely fortune in the service of Charles I. and II. He wrote on Horse
manship a curious and splendid volume. Part of the old house is still standing in Clerkenwell
Close (1816). '

1667.J 403
reigne last, with the Prelate of the Order and Dean, who had about
his neck ye booke of the Statutes of the Order, and then the Chancellor
of the Order (old Sr Hen. de Vic) who wore ye purse about his neck ;
then the Heraulds and Garter King at Arms, Clarencieux, Black Rod.
But before ye Prelate and Deane of Windsor went the Gentlemen of the
Chapell, and Choristers singing as they marched; behind them two
Doctors of Musick in damask robes ; this procession was about the
Courts of White-hall. Then returning to their stalls and seates in the
Chapell, plac'd under each Knights coate armour and titles, the second
service began : then the King offer'd at ye altar, an anthem was sung,
then ye rest of the Knights offer'd, and lastly proceeded to the Ban-
quetting-house to a greate feast. The King sat on an elevated throne
at the upper end at a table alone, the Knights at a table on the right
hand, reaching all the length of ye roome ; over against them a cup
board of rich gilded plate ; at the lower end the musick ; on the balus
ters above, wind musick, trumpets and kettle-drums. The King was
serv'd by ye Lords and Pensioners, who brought up the dishes. About
the middle of the. dinner the Knights drank the King's health, then ye
King theirs, when the trumpets and musick plaid and sounded, the guns
going off at the Tower. At ye banquet came in the Queene and stood
by the King's left hand, but did not sit. Then was the banquetting
stuff flung about the roome profusely. In truth the croud was so greate,
that tho' 1 staied all the supper ye day before, I now staied no longer
than this sport began for feare of disorder. The cheere was extraor
dinary, each Knight having 40 dishes to his messe, piled up 5 or 6
high. The roome hung with yc richest tapessry.
25. Visited again ye Duke of Newcastle, with whom I had ben ac
quainted long before in France, where the Dutchess had obligation to
my wives mother, for her marriage there; she was sister to Lord Lucas
and maid of honor then to the Queene Mother; married in our Chapel
at Paris. My wife being with me, the Duke and Dutchess both would
needs bring her to the very Court.
26. My Lord Chancellor shewed me all his newly-finished and fur
nished palace and librarie ; then we went to take the aire in Hide
Park.

404 [1667-
27. I had a greate deale of discourse with his Majestie at dinner.
In the afternoone I went againe with my wife to the Dutchess of New
castle, who receiv'd her in a kind of transport, suitable to her extra
vagant humour and dresse, which was very singular.
May 8. Made up accounts with our Receiver, which amounted to
sg.33,936. Is. 4d. Dined at Lord Combury's with Don Francisco de
Melos, Portugal Ambassador and kindred to the Queene : of the party
were Mr. Henry Jermaine, and Sr Hen. Capell. Afterwards I went to
Arundel House to salute Mr. Howard's sons, newly return'd out of
France. 11. To London, dined with the Duke of Newcastle, and sate dis^
coursing with her Grace in her bed-chamber after dinner, till my Lo.
Marquiss of Dorchester with other company came in, when 1 went
away. 30. To London to wait on the Dutchess of Newcastle (who was a
mighty pretender to learning, poetrie, and philosophie, and had in both
publish'd divers bookes) to the Royal Society *, whither she came in
greate pomp, and being receiv'd by our Lord President at the dore of
our meeting roome, the mace, &c. carried before him, had several ex
periments shewed to her. I conducted her Grace to her coach, and
return'd home.
1 June. I went to Greenewich, where his Ma* was trying divers
granado's shot out of cannon at the Castle-hill, from the house in the
Park ; they brake not till they hit the mark, the forg'd ones brake not
at all, but the cast ones very well. The inventor was a German, there
present. At the same time a ring was shewed to his Ma*, pretended
to be a projection of mercury, and malleable, and say'd bv ye gentlemen
to be fix'd by the juice of a plant.
18. To London, alarm'd by the Dutch, who were fallen on our
fleete at Chatham, by a most audacious enterprise entering the very
river with part of their fleete, doing us not only disgrace, but incredible

* This reminds us of the visit of another greater lady, Queen Christina, to the French Academy,
at one of their sittings, recorded by Mons' Pellisson in his History of that learned body. Queen
Caroline, wife of King George II. also affected the company of deep Divines, Scholars, and Phi-
losophers.

1667.] 405
mischiefe in burning severall of our best men of warr lying at anker
and moor'd there, and all this thro' our unaccountable negligence in
not setting out our fleete in due time. This alarme caus'd me, fearing
ye enemie might venture up ye Thames even to London, (which they
might have don with ease, and fir'd all ye vessells in ye river too,) to
send away my best goods, plate, &c. from my house to another place.
The alarme was so greate that it put both Country and Citty into a
paniq feare and consternation,- such as I hope as I shall never see
more ; every body was flying, none knew why or whither. Now there
were land forces dispatch'd with the Duke of Albemarle, Lord Mid
dleton, Prince Rupert, and the Duke, to hinder ye Dutch coming to
Chatham, fortifying Upnor Castle, and laying chaines and booms; but
ye resolute enemy brake thro' all, and set fire on our ships, and retreated
in spight, stopping up the Thames, the rest of their fleet lying before
the mouth of it.
14 June. I went to see the work at Woolwich, a battery to prevent
them from coming up to London, which Pr. Rupert commanded, and
sunk some ships in the river.
17- This night about 2 o'clock some chipps and combustible matter
prepar'd for some fire-ships taking flame in Deptford Yard made such
a blaze, and caus'd such an uproar in ye Tower, it being given out that
the Dutch fleete was come up and had landed their men and fir'd the
Tower, as had like to have don more mischeife before people would be
persuaded to the contrary and believe the accident. Every body went
to their armes. These were sad and troublesome times !
24. The Dutch fleet still continuing to stop up the river, so as
nothing- could stir out or come in, I was before ye Council, and com-
manded by his Ma* to go with some others and search about the envi
rons of the Citty, now exceedingly distress'd for want of fuell, whether
there could be any peate or turfe found fit for use. The next day I
went and discover'd enough, and made my report that there might be
found a greate deale ; but nothing further was don in it.
28. I went to Chatham, and thence to view not onely what mis
cheife the Dutch had don, but how triumphantly their whole fleete lay
within the very mouth of the Thames, all from ye North fore-land,

406 [1667-
Margate, even to ye buoy of the Nore — a dreadfull spectacle as ever
Englishmen saw, and a dishonour never to be wip'd off! Those who
advis'd his Ma* to prepare no fleete this spring deserv'd — I know
what — but*
Here in the river off Chatham, just before ye towne, lay ye carkass of
the London (now the third time burnt), the Royal Oake, the James,
&c. yet smoking; and now, when the mischeife was don, we were
making trifling forts on ye brink of the river. Here were yet forces
both of horse and foote, with Gen. Midleton continually expecting the
motions of the enemy's fleete. I had much discourse with him, who
was an experienc'd commander. I told him I wonder'd the King did
not fortifie Sheernesse f and the Ferry ; both abandoned.
2 July. Call'd upon by my Lo. Arlington as from his Ma* about
the new fuell. The occasion why I was mention'd was from what I
had said in my Sylva three yeares before, about a sort of fuell, for a
neede, which obstructed a patent of Lord Carlingford, who had ben
seeking for it himselfe ; he was endeavouring to bring me into the
project, and proferr'd me a share. I met my Lord ; and on the 9th by
an order of council went to my Lord Maior to be assisting. In the
meane time they had made an experiment of my receipt of houllies,
which I mention in my booke to be made at Maestricht with a mixture
of charcoal dust and loame, and which was tried with successe at
Gressham CoUedge (then being the exchange for meeting of the mer
chants since the Fire) for every body to see. This done, I went to the
Treasury for 12,000Z. for ye sick and wounded yet on my hands.
Next day we met againe about the fuell at Sir Ja. Armorer's in
the Mewes.
8. My Lord Brereton and others din'd at my house, where I shewed
them proofe of my new fuell, which was very glowing and without
smoke or ill smell.

* The Parliament giving but weak supplies for the war, the King to save charges is persuaded
by the Chancellor, the Lord Treasurer Southampton, the Duke of Albemarle, and the other
Ministers, to lay up the first and second rate ships, and make only a defensive war in the next
campaign. The Duke of York opposed this, but was over-ruled. Life of King James II. vol. I.
P- 425. f Since done.

1667.] 407
10. I went to see Sir Sam. Morland's* inventions and machines,
arithmetical wheeles, quench -fires, and new harp.
17- The Master of the Mint and his Lady, Mr. Williamson, Sir
Nich8 Armorer, Sir Edw. Bowyer, Sir Antii? Auger, & other friends,
dined with me.
29 July. I went to Gravesend, the Dutch fleete still at anker before
the river, where I saw 5 of his Ma*s men of war encounter above
20 of the Dutch, in the bottome of the Hope, chaceing them with
many broadsides given and return'd towards the buoy of the Nore,
where the body of their fleete lay, wch lasted till about midnight. One
of their ships was fir'd, suppos'd by themselves, she being run on
ground. Having seene this bold action, and their braving us so far
up the river, I went home yc next day, not without indignation at our
negligence, and the Nation's reproch. 'Tis well known who of the
Commissrs of the Treasury gave advice that the charge of setting forth
a fleete this yeare might be spar'd, Sr W. C. (William Coventrie)
by name.
1 Aug. I receiv'd the sad newes of Abraham Cowley's death, that
incomparable poet and virtuous man, my very deare friend, and was
greately deplored.
3. Went to Mr. Cowley's funerall, whose corps lay at Wallingford
House, and was thence convey'd to Westm1" Abby in a hearse with 6
horses and all funeral decency, neere an hundred coaches of noblemen
and persons of qualitie following ; among these all the witts of the

* Mr. Aubrey says : " Under the Equestrian Statue of Cha. 2. in the great Court at Windsor is
an engine for raising water contrived by Sr Sam. Morland, alias Morley. .He was son of Sr Sam.
Morland of Sulhamsted, Barrister, Berks, created Bart, by Cha. 2. in consideration of services per
formed during his exile. The son was a great mechanic, & was presented with a gold medal &
made Magister Mechanicorum by the king in 1681. He invented the drum capstauds for weighing
heavy anchors ; the speaking trumpet, & other usefull engines. He died & was buried at Ham
mersmith, Middl", 1696. There is a monumt for ye 2 wives of Sr Sam. Morland in Westmr
Abbey. There is a print of the son by Lombart after Lely. This Sr Sam. the son, built a large
room in his garden at Vauxhall, weh was much admired at that time. On the top was a punchi-
nello holding a dial." Aubrey's Surrey, vol. I. p. 12. See more of him in Manning and Bray's
History of Surrey, vol. III. 489, 490, 491, and Appendix, p. cv. — He is also noticed again several
times in this Diary; see particularly under the year 1681. Sept.

408 [1667-
towne, divers bishops and cleargymen. He was interr'd next Geoffry
Chaucer and neere Spenser. A goodly monument since erected to his
memorie. Now did his Ma* againe dine in ye Presence, in ancient state, with
musiq and all the Court ceremonies, which had ben interrupted since
ye late warr.
8. Visited Mr. Oldenburg, now close prisoner in the Tower, being
suspected of writing intelligence. I had an order from Lo. Arlington,
Seer, of State, which caus'd me to be admitted. This gent" was Secre
tary to our Society, and I am confident will prove an innocent person*.
15. Finish'd my account, amounting to ^.25,000.
17- To ye funerall of Mr. Farringdon, a relation of my wife's.
There was now a Very gallant horse to be baited to death with doggs;
but he fought them all, so as the fiercest of them could not fasten on
him, till they run him through with their swords. This wicked and
barbarous sport deserv'd to have ben punish'd in the cruel contrivers to
get mony, under pretence that the horse had kill'd a man, which was
false. I would not be persuaded to be a spectator.
21. Saw ye famous Italian puppet play, for 'twas no other.
24. I was appointed with ye rest of my brother Commissrs to put in
execution an order of Council for freeing the prisoners at war in my
custody at Leedes Castle, and taking off his Ma*s extraordinary charge,
having call'd before us the French and Dutch agents. The peace was
now proclaimed in the usual forme by the heraulds at armes.
25. After evening service I went to visit Mr. Vaughan j-, who lay
at Greenwich, a very wise and learned person, one of Mr. Selden's
executors aud intimate friends.
27. Visited the Lo. Chancellor, to whom his Ma* had sent for the
seales a few days before ; I found him in his bed-chamber very sad.
The Parliament had accus'd him, and he had enemies at Court, espe
cialy the buffoones and ladys of pleasure, because he thwarted some of
them and stood in their way ; I could name some of ye cheife. The
truth is, he made few friends during his grandeur among the royal
* He was released soon after, t Afterwards Lord Chief Justice.

1667-] 409
sufferers, but advanc'd the old rebells. He was, however, tho' no
considerable lawyer, one who kept up ye forme and substance of things
in ye Nation with more solemnity than some would have had. He was
my particular kind friend on all occasions. The Cabal, however,
prevail'd, and that party in Parliament. Greate division at Court con
cerning him, and divers greate persons interceding for him.
28. I din'd with my late Lo. Chancr, where also din'd Mr. Asbburn-
ham, and Mr. W. Legg of the Bed-chamber; his Lordship pretty well
in heart, tho' now many of his friends and sycophants abandon'd him.
In the afternoone I went to the Lords Commissrs for mony, and
thence to the audience of a Russian Envoy in ye Queene's presence-
chamber, introduc'd with much state, the souldiers, pensioners, and
guards in their order. His letters of credence brought by his secretary
in a scarfe of sarsenett, their vests sumptuous, much embroider'd with
pearls. He deliver'd his speech in yc Russe language aloud, but with-
out~ye least action or motion of his body, which was immediately in
terpreted aloud by a German that spake good English ; half of it
consisted in repetition of the Zarr's titles, which were very haughty
and oriental, the substance of ye rest was that he was only sent to see
ye King and Queene, and know how they did, with much compliment
and frothy language. Then they kiss'd their Maties hands, and went as
they came ; but their real errand was to get money.
29. We met at ye Star Chamber about exchange and release of
prisoners. 7 Sept. Came Sir John Kiviet to article with me about his brick
work *.
13. 'Twixt the houres of twelve & one was borne my second
daughter, who was afterwards christned Elizabeth.
19. To London with Mr. Hen. Howard of Norfolk, of whom I
obtain'd ye gift of his Arundelian Marbles, those celebrated and famous
inscriptions Greeke and Latine, gather'd with so much cost and industrie
from Greece, by his illustrious grandfather the magnificent Earle of
Arundel, my noble friend whilst he liv'd. When I saw these precious

* See pp. 401, 402.
VOL. I. 3 G

410 [1667-
monuments miserably neglected and scatter'd up and downe about the
garden, and other parts of Arundel House, and how exceedingly the
corrosive aire of London impair'd them, I procur'd him to bestow them
on the University of Oxford. This he was pleas'd to grant me, and
now gave me the key of the gallery, with leave to mark all those stones,
urns, altars, &c. and whatever I found had inscriptions on them, that
were' not statues. This I did, and getting them remov'd and pil'd
together, with those which were incrusted in the garden-walls, I sent
immediately letters to ye Vice-Chancellor of what I had procur'd, and
that if they esteem'd it a service to ye University (of which I had
ben a member) they should take order for their transportation.
This don, 21st I accompanied Mr. Howard to his villa at Albury,
where I design'd for him the plot for his canall and garden, with a
crypt * thro' the hill.
24 Sept. Returned to London, where I had orders to deliver ye
possession of Chelsey CoUedge (us'd as my prison during the warr
with Holland for such as were sent from the Fleete to London) to our
Society, as a gift of his Ma* our founder.
8 Oct. Came to dine with me Dr. Bathurst, Deane of Wells, Presi
dent of Trinity Coll. sent by the Vice- Chancelor of Oxford, in the
name both of him and the whole University, to thank me for procuring
ye Inscriptions, and to receive my directions what was to be don to
shew their gratitude to Mr. Howard.
11. I went to see Lord Clarendon, late Lord Chancellor and
greatest officer in England, in continual apprehension what the Par
liament would determine concerning him.
17- Came Dr, Barldw, Provost of Queen's Coll. and Protobibllo-
thecus of the Bodleian Library, to take order about ye transportation
of ye Marbles.
25. There were deliver'd to me two letters from the Vice-Chan-
celor of Oxford with the Decree of the Convocation attested by the
Publick Notary, ordering four Doctors of Divinity and Law to acknow
ledge the obligation the University had to me for procuring the Mar-
* Still in part remaining, but stopped up at the further end (1816.)

1667.] 411
mora Arundeliana, which was solemnly don by Dr. Barlow *, Dr.
Jenkins f Judge of the Admiralty, Dr. Lloyd, and Obadiah Walker +
of University Coll. who having made me a large compliment from the
University, deliver'd me the Decree fairly written :
Gesta venerabili domo Convocations Universitatis Oxon; . . 17. 1667.
Quo die retulit ad Senatum Academicum Dominus Vicecancellarius, quantum
Universitas deberet singulari benevolentiae Johannis Evelini Armigeri, qui pro
ea pietate qua Almam Matrem prosequitur non solum Suasu et Concilio apud
inclytum Heroem Henricum Howard, Ducis Norfolciae haeredem, intercessit
ut Universitati pretiosissimum eruditae antiquitatis thesaurum Marmora Arun
deliana largiretur ; sed egregius insuper in ijs colligendis asservandisq; navavit
operam : Quapropter unanimi suffragio Venerabilis Domus decretum est ut
eidem publicae gratiae per delegatos ad Honoratissimum Dominum Henricum
Howard propediem mittendos, solemniter reddantur.
Concordat superscripta cum originali collatione facta per me Ben.
Cooper Notarium Publicum et Regrium Universitat. Oxon.
« Sir,
" We intend also a noble inscription, in which also honorable mention shall
be made of yourselfe ; but Mr; Vice Chanc* commands me to tell you that
that was not sufficient for your merits, but that if your occasions would permit
you to come down at the Act (when we intend a dedication of our new
Theater), some other testimonie should be given both of your owne worth
and affection to this your old Mother ; for we are all very sensible of this
greate addition of learning and reputation to the University is due as well to
your industrious care for the Universitie, and interest with my Lord Howard,
as to his greate noblenesse and generositie of spirit.
" I am, Sir, your most humble servant,
" Obadiah Walker, Univ. Coll."
The Vice-Chancellor's letter to ye same effect were too vaine-glorious
to insert, with divers copies of verses that were also sent me. Their
mentioning me in the inscription I totally declin'd when I directed
the titles of Mr. Howard, now made Lord upon his ambassage to
Morocco.
* Bishop of Lincoln. f Afterwards Sir Leoline Jenkins, Secretary of State.
t Subsequently head pf that College. See pp. 235. 259 ; under 1675, July ; 16S6, May; and
vol. II. p. 58.

412 [1667.
These fower Doctors having made me this compliment, desir'd me
to carry and introduce them to Mr. Howard at Arundel House : which I
did, Dr. Barlow (Provost of Queenes) after a short speech, delivering
a larger letter of the University's thankes, which was written in La
tine, expressing the greate sense they had of the honour don them.
After this compliment handsomely perform'd, and as nobly receiv'd,
Mr. Howard accompanied the Doctors to their coach. That evening I
supp'd with them.
26. My late Ld Chancellor was accused by Mr. Seamour in the
House of Commons ; and in the evening I returned home.
31 Oct. My birth-day — blessed be God for all his mercies ! I made
ye Royal Society a present of ye Table of Veines, Arteries and Nerves,
which great curiositie I had caus'd to be made in Italy, out of the na
tural human bodies by a learned physitian, and the help of Vestlingius
(professor at Padua), from whence I brought them in 1 646. For this
I receiv'd ye public thanks of the Society ; and they are hanging up in
their Repository with an inscription.
9 Dec. To visit the late Lord Chancellor. I found him in his ffar-
den at his new-built palace, sitting in his gowt wheele-chayre, and
seeing the gates setting up towards the North and the fields. He
look'd and spake very disconsolately. After some while deploring his
condition to me, I tooke my leave. Next morning I heard he was
gon ; tho' I am persuaded that had he gon sooner, tho' but to Corn
bury, and there lain quiet, it would have satisfied the Parliament.
That wch exasperated them was his presuming to stay and contest the
accusation as long as 'twas possible ; and they were on ye point of
sending him to yB Tower.
10. I went to the funerall of Mrs. Heath, wife to my worthy friend
and schoolfellow.
21. I saw one Carr piloried at Charing-Crosse for a libel, which
was burnt before him by the hangman.
1668. 8 Jan. I saw deepe and prodigious gaming at the Groome-
Porters, vast heapes of gold squander'd away in a vaine and profuse
manner. This I looked on as a horrid vice and unsuitable in a Chris
tian Court.

1668.] 413
9. Went to see the Revells at the Middle Temple, which is also
an old but riotous costome, and has relation neither to virtue nor
policy. 10. To visite Mr. Povey, where were divers greate Lords to see
his well-contrived cellar and other elegancies*.
24. We went to stake out ground for building a CoUedge for ye
Royal Society at Arundel House, but did not finish it, which we shall
repent of.
4 Feb. I saw ye tragedy of " Horace" (written by ye virtuous Mrs.
Phillips) acted before their Maties. 'Twixt each act a masq and antiq
daunce. The excessive gallantry of the ladies was infinite, those es
pecialy on that .... Castlemaine esteem'd at ^.40,000 and more,
far outshining ye Queene.
15. I saw ye audience of ye Swedish Ambass1" Count Donna, in
greate state in the Banquetting-house.
3 Mar. Was launch'd at Deptford that goodly vessell the Charles.
I was neere his Ma*. She is longer than ye Soveraine, and carries 110
brasse canon ; she was built by old Shish, a plaine honest carpenter,
master builder of this dock, but one who can give very little account
of his art by discourse, and is hardly capable of reading f, yet of greate
abilitie in his calling. The family have been ship carpenters in this
yard above 100 yeares.
12. Went to visit Sir John. Cotton, who had me into his library,
full of good MSS. Greek and Latin, but most famous for those of the
Saxon and English Antiquities, collected by his grandfather.
2 April. To the Royall Societle, where I subscrib'd 50,000 bricks
towards building a CoUedge. Amongst other libertine libels there
was one now printed and thrown about, a bold petition of the poore
whores to Lady Castlemaine J.
9. To London about finishing my grand account of the sick and
wounded and prisoners at war, amounting to above ^.34,000.
* See p. 364.
t This was the case of Mr. Brindley, who executed such great works for the Duke of Bridge-
water towards the end of the eighteenth century.
X Perhaps Mr. Evelyn knew the author.

414 [l668-
I heard Sr R. Howard impeach Sr Wm Pen in the House of Lords,
for breaking bulk and taking away rich goods out of the E. India
prizes formerly taken by Lord Sandwich.
28. To London, about the purchase of Ravensbourn Mills and
land around it, in Upper Deptford, of one Mr. Becher.
30. We seal'd the deedes in Sr Edward Thurland's chambers in ye
Inner Temple. I pray God bless it to me, it being a deare pennyworth,
but the passion Sir R. Browne had for it, and that it was contiguous to
our other grounds, engag'd me.
13 May. Invited by that expert Commander Capt. Cox, master of
yc lately-built Charles the Second, now ye best vessell of ye Fleete,
design'd for yc Duke of York, 1 went to Erith, where we had a greate
dinner. 16. Sir Richard Edgecome of Mount Edgecomeby Plymouth, my
relation, came to visite me ; a very virtuous and worthy Gent.
19 June. To a new play with several of my relations, "The
Evening Loyer *," a foolish plot, and very prophane ; it afflicted me to
see how the stage was degenerated and polluted by ye licentious times.
July 2. Sr Sam. Tuke Bart, and the lady he had married this day
came and bedded at night at my house, many friends accompanying
the bride.
23. At the Royall .Society were presented divers glossa petra's and
other natural curiosities found in digging to build ye Fort at Sheere-
nesse ; they were just the same as they bring from Malta, pretending
them to be vipers teeth, whereas in truth they are of a shark, as we
found by comparing them with one in our Repository.
3 Aug. Mr. Bramstorie (son to Judge B.) my old fellow-traveller,
now Reader at the Middle Temple, invited me to his feast, which was
so very extravagant and greate as the like had not ben seene at any
time. There were the Duke of Ormond Privy Seal, Bedford, Belasys,
Halifax, and a world more of Earles and Lords.

* There is no play extant with this name ; it may perhaps be a second title to one],: Mr. Evelyn
irequently mentions only one name of a play that has two. Or it may be Dryden's Comedy of
' An Evening's Love, or The Mock Astrologer," which is indeed sufficiently licentious.

1668.] 415
14. His Ma* was pleas'd to grant me a lease of a slip of ground out
of Brick Close, to enlarge my fore court, for wch I now' gave him
thanks ; then entering into other discourse, he talk'd to me of a new
vernish for ships instead of pitch, and of yc gilding with which his new
yatcht was beautified. I shew'd his Ma* the perpetual motion sent to
me by Dr. Stokes from Collen ; and then came in Mons1" Colbert, ye
French Ambassador.
19. I saw ye magnificent entrie of the French Ambass1" Colbert,
receiv'd in yc Banqueting House. I had never seene a richer coach
than that which he came in to White-hall. Standing by his Ma* at
dinner in the Presence, there was of that rare fruit call'd the King-pine,
growing in Barbados and ye West Indies, the first of them I had ever
seene *. His Ma* having cut it up, was pleas'd to give me a piece off
his owne plate to taste of, but in my opinion it falls short of those.
ravishing varieties of deliciousness describ'd in Capt. Ligon's History,
and others ; but possibly it might, or certainly was, much impair'd in
coming so far. It has yet a gratefull acidity, but tasts more like ye
quince and melon than of any other fruite he mentions.
28 Aug. Publish'd my book of " The perfection of Painting," dedi
cated to Mr. Howard.
17 Sept. I entertain'd Sign1* Muccinigo the Venetian Ambass1", of
one of the noblest families of the State, this being the day of making
his publick entrie, setting forth from my house with severall gentn of
Venice and others in a very glorious traine. He staied with me till
the Earle of Anglesea and S* Cha. Cotterell (Master of the Ceremo
nies) came with the King's barge to carry him to ye Tower, where the
gunns were fir'd at his landing; he then entered his Ma*s coach, fol
low'd by many others of yfc nobility. I accompanied him to his house,
where there was a most noble supper to all the companie of course.
After ye extraordinarie compliments to me and my wife for the civilities
he receiv'd at my house, I tooke leave and return'd. He is a very ac
complished person. He is since Ambassador at Rome.
29. I had much discourse with Signr Pietro Cisij, a Persian gent.
* See before, the Queen's pine 1661, p. 338.

416 [1668.
about y< affaires of Turkey, to my greate satisfaction. I went to see
Sr Elias Leighton's project of a cart with iron axle-trees.
Nov. 8. Being at dinner, my sister Evelyn sent for me to come up
to London to my continuing sick brother.
14. To London, invited to the consecration of that excellent person
ye Deane of Ripon, Dr. Wilkins, now made Bishop of Chester ; it was
at Ely House, the Archbp. of Canterbury, Dr. Cosin Bishop of Dur
ham, the Bishops of Ely, Salisbury, Rochester, and others officiating.
Dr. Tillotson preach'd. Then we went to a sumptuous dinner in ye
Hall, where were the Duke of Buckingham, Judges, Secretaries of
State, Lord Keeper, Council, Noblemen, and innumerable other com
pany, who were honourers of this incomparable man, universally be
lov'd of all who knew him.
This being ye Queene's birth-day, greate was yu gallantry at White
hall, and ye night celebrated with very fine fire-works.
My poore brother continuing ill I went not from him till ye 17th,
when dining at ye Groom Porters I heard Sir Edw. Sutton play excel
lently on yfc Irish harp ; he plays genteelly, but not approching my
worthy jfriend Mr. Clark, a gent, of Northumberland, who makes it
exceed lute, viol, and all yfc harmony an instrument is capable of; pity
'tis that it is not more in use ; but indeede to play well takes up the
whole man, as Mr. Clark has assur'd me who, tho' a gent, of quality
and parts, was yet brought up to that instrument from 5 yeares old,
as I remember he told me.
25. I waited on Lo. Sandwich, who presented me with the Sem-
brador he brought out of Spaine, shewing me his two bookes of obser
vations made during his ambassy and stay at Madrid, in which were
several rare things he promis'd to impart to me.
27- I din'd at my Lord Ashley's (since Earl of Shaftsbury) when ye
match of my niece * was propos'd for his onely sonn, in wch my assist
ance was desir'd for my Lord.
28. Dr. Patrick preached at Covent Garden on 17 Acts, 31. the
certainty of Christ's coming to judgement, it being Advent ; a most
suitable discourse.

* Probably the daughter of his brother Richard of Epsom, but who married Mr. Mountagu.

]668.]

417-

19 Dec. I went to see ye old play of " Cataline" acted, having ben
now forgotten almost 40 yeares.
20 Dec. I din'd with my Lord Cornbury at Clarendon House, now
bravely furnish'd, especialy with the pictures of most of our ancient
and modern witts, poets, philosophers, famous and learned English
men ; which collection of the Chancellor's I much commended, and
gave his Lordship a catalogue of more to be added *.

* In a letter to the Lord Chancellor dated 18 March 1666-7, Mr. Evelyn says ;
" My Lord, yr Lp. enquires of me what pictures might be added to the Assembly of the Learned
and Heroic persons of England which your Lp has already collected j the designe of which I do
infinitely more magnifie than the most famous heads of Foreigners which do not concern the
glory of our Country ; and it is in my opinion the most honorable ornament, the most becoming
and obliging, wcb yr Lp can thinke of to adorne yr palace withall : such therefore as seem to
be wanting I shall range under these three heads.
The Learned.
Wm. Hooker.
Dr. Sanderson.
Wm. Oughtred.
M. Philips.
Rog. Bacon.
Geo. Ripley.
Wm. of Occam.
Hadrian 4th.
Alex. Ales. Polititians.
Sir W. Raleigh.
Cardl- Wolsey. '
Souldiers.
Tho. Cavendish,
Sir Ph. Sidney.
E. of Essex.
" Some of which, tho' difficult to procure originals of, yet happly copys might be found out upon
diligent enquiry. The rest I thinke yr Lp has already in good proportion."
Mr. Evelyn, in a letter to Mr. Pepys, dated 12 Aug. 16S9, tells him that the Lord Chancellor Cla
rendon had collected Portraits of very many of our great menj and puts them down promiscuously
as he recollected them (see vol. II. pp. 241, 242). Mr. Evelyn also there gives a list of Portraits
which he recommended to be added, a little different from the list contained in the preceding
letter to the Lord Chancellor ; and remarks that " When Lord Clarendon's design of making this

Sir Hen. Savell.
Abp. of Armagh.
Dr. Harvey.
Sir H. Wotton.
Sir T. Bodley.
G. Buchanan.
Jo. Barclay.
Ed. Spencer.
Wm. Lilly.
Sir Fra. Walsingham.
E. of Leicester.
Sir Fra. Drake.
Sir J. Hawkins.
Sir Martin Frobisher.

Ven. Bede.
Jo. Duns Scotus.
Alcuinus. Ridley, )
v . > martyrs.
Latimer, )
Roger Ascham.
Sir J. Cheke.
. ,, ( Eliz. Joan Western}
(. Jane Grey.

Sir T. Smith.
Card. Pole.
Talbot. Sir F. Grevill.
Hor. E. of Oxford.

J For an account of bar see Ballard's Learned Ladies. There is a very scarce volume of Latin Poems by
ber printed at Prague, 160G. Mr. Evelyn mentions her in his Numismata. She is much celebrated by the
writers of her time.
VOL. I. 3 H

418 1*669-
31. I entertained my kind neighbours according to costome, giving
Almighty God thanks for his gracious mercys to me the past yeare.
1669. 1 Jan. Imploring His blessing for the yeare entring, I went
to church, where our Doctor preached on 65 Psalm 12. apposite to ye
season and beginning a new yeare.
3. About this time one of Sr Wm Pen's sonns had publish'd a blas
phemous book against the Deity of our blessed Lord.
29. I went to see a tall gigantic woman, who measur'd 6 feet 10
inches high *, at 21 years old, born in the Low Countries.
13 Feb. I presented his Ma'J with my " Historie of the Foure Im
postors;" he told me of other like cheates. I gave my booke to Lord
Arlington, to whom I dedicated it. It was now that he began to tempt
me about writing " the Dutch War."
15. Saw Mrs. Philips's " Horace" acted againe.
1 8. To the RI. Society, when Signor Malpighi, an Italian physician
& anatomist, sent the Societie the incomparable Historie of the Silk-
worme. 1 Mar. Din'd at Lord Arlington's, at Goring House with the
Bishop of Hereford.
4. To the Council of the R. Society, about disposing my Lord
Howard's Librarie, now given to us.
16. To London, to place Mr Christopher Wase about my Lord Ar
lington. 18. I went with Lord Howard of Norfolk to visit Sr Wm Ducie
at Charlton, where we din'd ; the servants made our coachmen so
drunk that they both fell off their boxes on the heath, where we were
fain to leave them, and were driven to London by two servants of
my Lord's. This barbarous custom of making the masters welcome
by intoxicating the servants had now the second time happen'd to my
coachman.
collection was known, every body who had any of the portraits, or could purchase them at any
price, strove to make their court by presenting them. By this means he got many excellent pieces
of Vandyke, and other originals by Lely and other the best of our modern masters." (Ibid.
p. 244.)* A few years ago there was living in England a gentlewoman who was 7 feet 5 inches high.
She died about the age of 27. (1816.)

1669-] 419
My sonn came finally from Oxon.
2 April. Din'd at Mr. Treasurer's, where was (with many noble
men) Col. Titus of the bed-chamber, author of ye famous piece against
Cromwell, " Killing no Murder."
I now plac'd Mr. Wase with Mr. Williamson, Secretary to ye Secre
tary of State, and Clerk of ye Papers.
14. I din'd with the Abp. of Canterbury at Lambeth, and saw the
Library, which was not very considerable.
19 May. At a Council of the R. Society our grant was finish'd, in
wch his Ma*^ gives us Chelsey CoUedge and some land about it. It was
order'd that 5 should be a quorum for a Council. The Vice-President
was then sworn for ye first time, and it was propos'd how we should
receive the Prince of Tuscany, who desir'd to visit the Society.
20. This evening at 1 0 o'clock was borne my third daughter, who
was baptized on the 25th by the name of Susanna.
3 June. Went to take leave of Lord Howard, going Ambass1, to
Morocco. Dined at Lord Arlington's, where were the Earle of Berk
shire, Ld S' John, Sir Robert Howard, & Sir R. Holmes.
10. Came my Lord Cornbury, Sr William Poultny, and others, to
visite me. I went this evening to London, to carry Mr. Pepys to my
brother Richd, now exceedingly afflicted with the stone, who had ben
successfully cut, and carried the stone as big as a tennis-ball, to shew
him and encourage his resolution to go thro' the operation.
30. My wife went a journey of pleasure down the river as far as yc
Sea, with Mrs. Howard, and her daughter the Maid of Honour, and
others, amongst whom that excellent creature Mrs. Blagge.
* 7 Juty- I went towards Oxford ; lay at Little Wycomb. — 8. At
Oxford. 9. In the morning was celebrated the Encenia of the New Theater,
so magnificently built by the munificence of Dr. Gilbert Sheldon, Abp,
of Canterbury, in which was spent ^.25,000, as Sir Chrr Wren, the
architect, (as I remember) told me ; and yet it was never seene by the
benefactor, my Lord Abp. having told me that he never did nor ever
would see it. It is in truth a fabrick comparable to any of this kind of
former ages, and doubtless exceeding any of the present, as this Univer-

420 1*669-
sity does for Colledges, Libraries, Scholes, Students, and order, all the
Universities in the world. To the Theater is added the famous Shel-
donian Printing-house. This being at the Act and the first time of
opening the Theater (Acts being formerly kept in St. Mary's church,
which might be thought indecent, that being a place set apart for the
immediate worship of God, and was the inducement for building this
noble pile) it was now resolv'd to keep the present Act in it, and cele
brate its dedication with the greatest splendor and formalitie that might
be, and therefore drew a world of strangers and other companie to the
University from all parts of ye nation.
The Vice Chancellor, Heads of Houses, and Doctors, being seated
in magisterial seates, the Vice Chancellor's chaire and deske, Proctors,
&c cover'd with Brocatall (a kind of brocade) and cloth of gold ; the
Universitie Register read the founder's grant and gift of it to the Uni
versitie for their scolastic exercises upon these solemn occasions. Then
follow'd Dr. South, the Universitie's Orator, in an eloquent speech,
which was very long, and not without some malicious and indecent
reflections on the Royal Society, as underminers of the University,
which was very foolish and untrue, as well as unseasonable. But, to let
that pass from an ill. natur'd man, the rest was in praise of the Arch
bishop and the ingenious architect. This ended, after loud musiq from
the corridor above, where an organ was plac'd, there followed divers
panegyric speeches both in prose and verse, interchangeably pronounc'd
by the young students plac'd in the rostrums, in Pindarics, Eclogues,
Heroics, &c. mingled with excellent musiq, vocal and instrumental, to
entertain the ladies and the rest of the company. A speech was then
made in praise of academical learning. This lasted from 11 in the
morning till 7 at night, which was concluded with ringing of bells and
universal joy and feasting.
10. The next day began the more solemn Lectures in all yB Faculties,
which were perform'd in their several scholes, where all the Inceptor
Doctors did their exercises, the Professors having first ended their read
ing. The assembly now return'd to the Theater, where the Terrce
Jilius (the Universitie Buffoone) entertain'd the auditorie with a tedious,
abusive, sarcastical rhapsodie, most unbecoming the gravity of the

*66Q.] 421
Universitie, and that so grossly, that unlesse it be suppress'd, it will be
of ill consequence, as I afterwards plainly express'd my sense of it both
to ye Vice Chancellor and severall heads of houses, who were perfectly
asham'd of it, and resolv'd to take care of it in future. The old face
tious way of raillying upon the questions was left off, falling wholy
upon persons, so that 'twas rather licentious lyeing and railing than
genuine and noble witt. In my life I was never witnesse of so shame-
full entertainment. After this ribauldry, the Proctors made their
speeches. Then began ye Musick Act, vocal and instrumental, above
in ye ballustrade corridore opposite to the Vice Chancellor's seate. Then
Dr. Wallis, the Mathematical Professor, made his Oration, and created
one Doctor of Musiq according to the usual ceremonies of gowne (which
was of white damask), cap, ring, kisse, &c. Next follow'd yc Disputa
tions of the Inceptor Doctors in Medicine, the Speech of their Professor
Dr. Hyde, and so in course their respective creations. Then disputed
the Inceptors of Law, the Speech of their Professor, and creation.
Lastly, Inceptors in Theologie ; Dr. Compton (brother to the Earle of
Northampton) being junior, began with greate modesty and applause ;
so the rest. After wch Dr. Tillotson, Dr. Sprat, &c. and then Dr.
Allestree's speech, ye King's Professor, and their respective creations.
Last of all the Vice Chancellor, shutting up the whole in a panegyrical
oration celebrating their benefactor and the rest, apposite to the
occasion. Thus was the Theater dedicated by the scholastic exercises in all the
Faculties with greate solemnity ; and the night, as ye former, enter
taining the new Doctors friends in feasting and musiq. I was invited
by Dr. Barlow, the worthy and learned Provost of Queene's Coll.
11. The Act Sermon was this forenoon preach'd by Dr. Hall in St.
Maries in an honest practical discourse against Atheisme- In the after
noone the. Church was so crowded, that not coming early I could not
approch to heare.
12. Monday. Was held the Divinity Act in the Theater againe,
when proceeded 17^ Doctors, in all Faculties some.
13. I din'd at the Vice-Chancellor's, and spent the afternoone in
seeing the rarities of the publick libraries, and visiting. ye noble marbles

422 [1669.
and inscriptions, now inserted in the walles that compasse the area of
the Theater, which were 150 of the most ancient and worthy treasures
of that kind in the learned world. Now observing that people ap
proving them too neere, some idle persons began to scratch and injure
them, I advis'd that an hedge of holly should be planted at the foot of
ye wall, to be kept breast-high onely, to protect them, which the Vice-
Chancellor promis'd to do the next season.
14. Dr. Fell*, Dean of Christ-church and Vice-Chancellor, with
Dr. AUestree Professor, with Beadles and Maces before them, came to
visite me at my lodging. — I went to visite Lord Howard's sons at
Magdalen College.
15. Having two daies before had notice that the University intended
me the honour of Doctor-ship, I was this morning attended by the
Beadles belonging to the Law, who conducted me to the Theater,
where I found the Duke of Ormond (now Chancellor of the Universitie)
with ye Earl of Chesterfield and Mr. Spencer (brother to ye late Earl of
Sunderland). Thence we march'd to the Convocation House, a Con
vocation having ben call'd on purpose ; here, being all of us rob'd in
the Porch in scarlett with caps and hoods, we were led in by the Pro
fessor of Laws and presented respectively by name, with a short eulogie,
to the Vice-Chancellor, who sate in the chaire, with all the Doctors
and Heads of Houses and Masters about ye roome, which was exceeding
full. Then began tbe Publiq Orator his speech, directed chiefly to the
Duke of Ormond the Chancellor, but in which I had my compliment
in course. This ended, we were call'd up and created Doctors according
to the forme, and seated by the Vice-Chancellor amongst the Doctors
on his right hand ; then the Vice-Chancellor made a short speech, and
so saluting our brother Doctors, the pageantry concluded, and the Con
vocation was dissolved. So formal a creation of Honorarie Doctors had
seldome ben seene, that a Convocation should be call'd on purpose and
speeches made by the Orator ; but they could do no lesse, their Chan
cellor being to receive, or rather do them, this honour. I should have
ben made Doctor with the rest at the Publiq Act, but their expectation
* Afterwards Bishop of Oxford.

1669.] 423
of their Chancellor made them defer it. I was then led with my bro
ther Doctors to an extraordinary entertainment at Dr. Mewes, Head of
St. John's College, and after aboundance of feasting and compliments,
having visited the Vice-Chancellor and other Doctors, and given them
thanks for the honour done me, I went towards home the 16th, and got
as far as Windsor, and to my house ye next day.
4 Aug. I was invited by Sir Hen. Peckham to his Reading feast in
the Middle Temple, a pompous entertainment, where were the Abp. of
Canterbury, all the greate Earles and Lords, &c. I had much discourse
with my Lord Winchelsea, a prodigious talker ; and the Venetian
Ambassr. 17. To London, spending almost the intire day in surveying what
progresse was made in rebuilding the ruinous Citty, which now began
a little to revive after its sad calamitie.
20. I saw the splendid audience of ye Danish Ambass1 in the Ban
quetting House at White-hall.
23. I went to visite my most excellent and worthy neighbour the Ld
Bishop of Rochester at Bromely, which he was now repairing after
the dilapidations of the late rebellion.
2 Sept. I was this day very ill of a paine in my limbs, which conti
nued most of this weeke & was increased by a visite I made to my old
acquaintance the Earle of Norwich at his house in Epping Forest, where
are many good pictures put into the wainscot of the roomes, which Mr.
Baker, his Lordship's predecessor there, brought out of Spaine ; espe
cialy the Historie of Joseph, a picture of the pious and learned Picus
Mirandula, and an incomparable one of old Breugle. The gardens were
well understood, I mean the Potagere. I return'd late in ye evening,
ferrying over ye water at Greenewich.
26. To Church to give God thanks for my recovery.
Oct. 3. I received the Blessed Eucharist to my unspeakable joy.
21. To ye R. Society, meeting for the first time after a long recesse,
during Vacation, according to custome ; where was read a description
of the prodigious Eruption of Mount Etna ; and our English Itinerant
presented an account of his autumnal perigrination about England, for
which we hired him, bringing dried fowls, fish, plants, animals, &c.

424 [1670.
26. My deare brother continued extreamely full of paine, the Lord
be gracious to him !
Nov. 3. This being the day of meeting for the poore, we dined
neighbourly together.
25. I heard an excellent discourse by Dr. Patrick on the resurrec
tion ; & afterwards visited the Countesse of Kent, my kindswoman.
8 Dec. To London, upon yc second edition of my "£ylva," which I
presented to the Royal Society.
1670. Feb. 6. D John Breton, Mr of Emanuel Coll. in Cambridge,
(unkle to our Viccar,) preached on 1 John 27, " whose shoe latchet I
am not worthy to unloose, &c." describing the various fashions of shoos
or sandals worn by ye Jewes & other nations : of ye ornaments of the
feete : how greate persons had servants y* tooke them off when they
came to their houses, & bare them after them : by which pointing the
dignitie of o1 Saviour, when such a person as Sfc John Baptist acknow
ledges his unworthinesse even of that meane office. The lawfulnesse,
decentnesse, & necessitie, of subordinate degrees & ranks of men & ser
vants, as well in ye Church as State : against ye late levellers & others of
that dangerous rabble who would have all alike.
3 Mar. Finding my brother [Richard] in such exceeding torture,
and that he now began to fall into convulsion fits, I solemnly set ye
next day apart to beg of God to mitigate his sufferings and prosper the
onely meanes which yet remained for his recovery, he being not only
much wasted but exceedingly and all along averse from being cut (for
tbe stone); but when he at last consented, and it came to ye operation
and all things prepar'd, his spirit and resolution failed.
6. Dr Patrick preached in Covent Garden church. I participated of
the blessed Sacrament, recommending to God the deplorable condition
of my deare brother, who was almost in ye last agonies of death. I
watched late with him this night. It pleased God to deliver him out of
this miserable life, towards five o'clock this Moneday morning, to my
unspeakeable griefe. He was a brother whom 1 most dearly lov'd for his
many virtues ; but two yeares younger than myself, a sober, prudent,
worthy gentleman. He had married a greate fortune, and left one onely
daughter, and a noble seate at Woodcote neere Epsom. His body was

1670.] 42.F

open'd, and a stone taken out of his bladder, not much bigger than a
nutmeg. I returned home on the 8th, full of sadnesse, & to bemoane
my losse.
20. A stranger preached at the Savoy French Church : the Liturgie
of the Ch: of England being now used altogether, as translated into
French by Dr. Durell.
21. We all accompanied the corpse of my dear brother to Epsom
church, where he was decently Interr'd in ye chapell belonging to
Woodcote House. A greate number of friends and gentlemen of the
country attended, about 20 coaches and six horses, and innumerable
people. 22. I went to Westm1-, where in the House of Lords I saw his
Maty sit on his throne, but without his robes, all tbe Peeres sitting
with their hatts on ; the business of the day being the divorce of my
Lord Rosse. Such an occasion and sight had not ben seene in England
since the time of Hen. VIII. *
5 May. To London, concerning the office of Latine Secretary to
his Ma'y, a place of more honor and dignitie than profit, the revertion
of which he had-promis'd me.
21. Came to visite me Mr. Henry Savill, and Sr Chas Scarborow.
26. Receiving a letter from Mr. Philip Howard, Lord Almoner
to the Queen f, that Moris'" Evelin, first physitian to Madame (who
was now come to Dover to visit the King her brother), was come to
towne, greately desirous to see me, but his stay so short that he could
not come to me, I went with my brother to meete him at the Tower,

* " When there was a project, 1669, for getting a divorce^for the King, to facilitate it, there
was brought into the House. of Lords a bill for dissolving the marriage of Lord Rosse, on account
of adultery, and to give him leave to marry again. This bill, after great debates, passed by the
plurality of only two votes, and that by the great industry of the Lord's friends, as well as the
Duke's enemies, who carried it on chiefly in hopes it might be a precedent, and inducement for the
King to enter the more easily into their late proposals ; nor were they a little encouraged therein,
when they saw the King countenance and drive on the bill in Lord Rosse's favour. Of 18 Bishops
that were in the House, only two voted for the bill, of which one voted through age,, and one was
reputed a Socinian." — These, in a note, are said to be Dr. Cosin, Bishop of Durham, and Dr.
Wilkins, Bishop of Chester.
t Afterwards created Cardinal.
VOL. 1. 3 I

426 [No
where he was seeing the magazines and other curiosities, having never
before ben in England : we renew'd our alliance and friendship, with
much regret on both sides that he being to returne towards Dover that
evening, we could not enjoy one another any longer. How this French
familie, Ivelin, of Eveiin in Normandy, a very ancient and noble
house, is grafted into our Pedigree, see in ye collection brought from
Paris 1650.
16 June. I went with some friends to ye Bear Garden, where was
cock-fighting, dog-fighting, beare and bull baiting, it being a famous
day for all these butcherly sports, or rather barbarous cruelties. The
bulls did exceeding well, but the Irish wolfe-dog exceeded, which was a
tall greyhound, a stately creature indeede, who beate a cruell mastiff.
One of the bulls toss'd a dog full into a lady's lap, as she sate in one of
ye boxes at a considerable, height from the arena. Two poore dogs
were kill'd, and so all ended with the ape on horseback, and I most
heartily weary of the rude and dirty pastime, which I had not seene,
I think, in twenty yeares before.
18. Dined at Goring House, whither my Lo. Arlington carried me
from White-hall with the Marquis of Worcester ; there we found Lo.
Sandwich, Viscount Stafford [since beheaded], the Lieutenant of yK
Tower, and others. After dinner my Lord communicated to me his
Ma^5 desire that I wpuld undertake to write the History of our late
War with the Hollanders, which I had hitherto declin'd ; this I found
was ill-taken, and that I should disoblige, his Ma^, who had made
choice of me to do him this service, and if I would undertake it I should
have all the assistance the Secretary's office and others could give me,
with other encouragements, which I could not decently refuse.
Lord Stafford rose from table in some disorder because there were
roses stuck about the fruite when the discert was set on the table ; such
an antipathie, it seems, he had to them as once Lady Selenger * also had
and to that degree, that, as Sr Kenelm Digby tells us, laying but a rose
upon her cheeke when she was asleepe, it rais'd a blister ; but Sr Ke
nelm was' a teller of strange things.
* St, Leger.

1670.] 427
24. Came the Earle of Huntingdon and Countesse, with ye L<1 She-
rard, to visite us.
29. To London, in order to my niece's marriage, Mary, daughter to
my late brother Richard, of Woodcot, wth ye eldest son of Mr. Attor
ney Mountague, which was celebrated at Southampton House Chapell,
after which a magnificent entertainment, feast and dauncing, dinner
and supper, in the great roome there, but the bride was bedded at my
sister's lodging in Drurie lane.
6 July. Came to visite me Mr. Stanhope, Gent. Usher to her Ma
jestie, and unkle to the Earle of Chesterfield, a very fine man, with my
Lady Hutcheson.
19. I accompanied my Worthy friend that excellent man S Rob1
Murray, with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, to see ye latter's seate
and estate at Burrow Green in Cambridgeshire, he desireing our ad
vice for placeing a new house which he was resolv'd to build * ; we set
out in a coach and six horses with him and his lady, din'd about
midway at one Mr. Turner's, where we found a very noble dinner,
venison, musiq, and a circle of country ladies and their gallants.
After dinner we proceeded and came to Burrow Green that night.
This had ben the ancient seate of ye Cheekes (whose daughter Mr.
Slingsby married), formerly Tutor to K. Edw. VI. The old house
large and ample, and built for ancient hospitalitie, ready to fall down
with age, plac'd in a dirty hole, a stiffe clay, no water, next an ad-
joyning church-yard, and with other inconveniencies. We pitch'd on
a spot of rising ground, adorn'd with venerable woods, a dry and sweete
prospect East and West, and fit for a parke, but no running water ;
at a mile distance from the old house. ¦
20. We went to dine at Lord Allington's f, who had newly built
a house of greate cost, I believe little less than ^20,000 J. His archi-

* It is probable that he did not build, and that after his misfortunes, which will be mentioned
hereafter, it was sold. Mr. Lysons, in his Britannia, under Cambridgeshire, says, that what remains
of an old brick mansion, is now a farm-house.
f Since Constable of the Tower.
X At Horseheath. The Allingtons seated here before 1239 : William created an Irish Peer, by
the title of Lord Allington, in 1646. Mr. Lysons says the building cost s£70,000. and with the

428 [1670-
tect was Mr. Pratt. It is seated in a parke, with a sweete prospect and
stately avenue, but water still defective; the house has also its infir
mities. Went back to Mr. Slingsby 's.
22. We rod out to see the greate meere or levell of recover'd fen
lande, not far off. In the way we met Lord Arlington going to his
house in Suffolk, accompanied with Count Ogniati the Spanish Mi
nister, and S1 Bernard Gascoigne ; he was very importunate with me to
go with him to Euston, being but fifteen miles distant, but in reguard
of my companie I could not. So passing thro' Newmarket, we alighted
to see his Maties house there, now new building; the arches of the
cellars beneath are well turn'd by Mr. Samuel the architect, the rest
meane enough and hardly fit for a hunting house. Many of the roomes
above had the chimnies plac'd in ye angles and corners, a mode now
introduc'd by his Maty wch I do at no hand approve of. I predict it
will spoile many noble houses and roomes if follow'd. It does onely
well in very small and trifling roomes, but takes from the state of
greater. Besides this house is plac'd in a dirty streete, without any
court or avenue, like a common one, whereas it might, and ought to
have ben built at either end of the towne, upon the very carpet where
the sports are celebrated ; but it being the purchase of an old wretched
house of my Lord Thomond's, his Ma** was persuaded to set it on that
foundation, the most improper imaginable for a house of sport and
pleasure *.
We went to see the stables and fine horses, of wch many were here
kept at a vast expense, with all the art and tendernesse Imaginable.
Being ariv'd at some meeres, we found Lord Wotton and Sir John
Kivietf about their draining engines, having it seemes undertaken to do
wonders on a vast piece of marsh ground they had hired of Sr Thomas
Chichley (Mar of ye Ordnance.) • They much pleas'd themselves with
the hopes of a rich harvest of hemp and cole seed, wch was the crop

estate was sold in 1687 to John Bromley, esq. for ^42,000. He expende d ^30,000 more on the
building. His grandson was created Lord Montford in 1741. In 1776 the second Lord Montford
sold the estate, the house being sold in 1777 for the materials, to be pulled down. Lysons, Cam
bridgeshire, p. 216, 217.
* It was sold by the Crown in 1S16. f Of him see before, p. 401,

1 670.] 429
expected. Here we visited the engines and mills both for wind and
water, draining it thro' two rivers or graffs cut byhand and capable of
carrying considerable barges, which went thwart one the other, dis
charging the water into ye sea. Such at this spot had ben the former
winter, it was* astonishing to see it now drie and so rich that weeds
grew on the bankes almost as high as a man and horse. Here my
Lord and his partner had built 2 or 3 roomes with Flanders white
bricks, very hard. One of the greate engines was in the kitchen, where
I saw' the fish swim up, even to the very chimney hearth, by a small
cut thro' the roome, and running within a foote of ye very fire.
Having after dinner rid about that vast level], pester'd with heate
and swarmes of gnatts, we return'd over New-market Heath, the way
being mostly a sweet turfe and down, like Salisbury Plaine, the jockies
breathing their fine barbs and racers, and giving them their heates.
23 July. We return'd from Burrow Green to London, staying some
time at Audley End to see that fine palace. It is indeede a cheerefull
piece of Gotic building, or rather antico moderno, but placed in an ob
scure bottome. The cellars and galleries are very stately. It has a
river by it, a pretty avenue of limes, and in a parke.
This is in Saffron Walden parish, famous for that usefull plant, with
wcb all the ye countrie is cover'd.
Dining at Bishop Stortford, we came late to London.
5 Aug. There was sent me by a neighbour a servant maid, who in
the last moneth, as she was sitting before her mistress at work, felt a
stroke on her arme a little above the wrist for some height, the smart of
which, as if struck by another hand, caus'd her to hold her arme awhile
till somewhat mitigated, but it put her into a kind of convulsion or rather
hysteric fit. A gentleman coming casually in^ looking on her arme,
found that part poudred with red crosses, set in most exact and won-
derfull order, neither swelled nor depressed, about this shape,
x
x x
xxx x x
x

430 [1670.
not seeming to be any way made by artifice, of a reddish colour, not
so red as blood, the skin over them smooth, the rest Of the arme livid
and of a mortified hue, with certaine prints as it were of the stroke of
fingers. This had happen'd three severall times in July, at about 10
days inter vail, the crosses beginning to weare out, but* the successive
ones set in other different, yet uniforme order. The maide seemed
very modest, and came from London to Deptford with her mistress to
avoid the discourse and importunity of curious people. She made no
gaine by it, pretended no religious fancies, but seemed to be a plaine,
ordinary, silent, working wench, somewhat fat, short, and high co
lour'd. She told me divers divines and physitians had seene her, but
were unsatisfied ; that she had taken some remedies against her fits,
but they did her no good ; she had never before had any fits ; once
since she seem'd in her sleepe to hear one say to her that she should
tamper no more with them, nor trouble herselfe with any thing that
happen'd, but put her trust in ye merits of Christ onely.
This is the substance of what she told me, and what I saw and cu
riously examin'd. I was formerly acquainted with the impostorious
Nunns of Loudune in France, which made such noise amongst the Pa
pists, I therefore thought this worth the notice. I remember Monsr
Monconys (that curious traveller and a Roman Catholic) was by no
means satisfied with ye stigmata of those Nunns, because they were
so shy of letting him scrape the letters, which were Jesus, Maria,
Joseph, (as I think) observing they began to scale off with it, whereas
this poore wench was willing to submit to any trial ; so that I profess
I know not what to think of it, nor dare I pronounce it any thing su-
pernaturall. 26. At Windsor I supp'd with the Duke of Monmouth ; and the
next day, invited by Lord Arlington, din'd with the same Duke and
divers Lords. After dinner my Lord and I had a conference of more
than an houre alone in his bedchamber, to engage me in the Historie.
I shew'd him something that I had drawn up, to his greate satisfaction,
and he desir'd me to shew it to the Treasurer.
28. One of the Canons preach'd, then followed the offering of the
Knights of the Order, according to custom ; first the poore Knights in

1670.] 431
procession, then the Canons in their formalities, the Deane and Chan
cellor, then his Ma1? (the Soveraine), then the Duke of York, Prince
Rupert, lastly the Earle of Oxford, being all the Knights that were
then at Court.
1 din'd with the Treasurer, and consulted with him what pieces I
was to add ; in the afternoone his Ma*? tooke me aside into the balconie
over the terrace, extreamely pleas'd with what had ben told him I had
begun in order to his commands, and enjoyning me to proceede vigo
rously in it. He told me he had ordered ye Secretaries of State to give
me all necessary assistance of papers and particulars relating to It, and
enjoyning me to make it a little keene, for that the Hollanders had very
unhandsomely abus'd him in their pictures, books, and libells.
Windsor was now going to be repaired, being exceedingly ragged
and ruinous. Prince Rupert, the Constable, had begun to trim up the
keepe or high round tower, and handsomely adorn'd his hall with fur
niture of armes, which was very singular, by so disposing ye pikes,
muskets, pistols, bandeliers, holsters, drums, back, breast, and head
pieces, as was very extraordinary. Thus those huge steepe stayres
ascending to it had ye walls invested with this martial furniture all new
and bright, so disposing ye bandeliers, holsters, and drums, as to re
present festoons, and that without any confusion, trophy like. From
the hall we went into his bedchamber, and ample roomes hung with
tapissrie, curious and effeminate pictures ; so extreamely different from
the other, which presented nothing but warr and horror.
The King pass'd most of his time in hunting the stag, and walking
in the parke, which he was now planting with rows of trees.
13. To visite Sr Richd Lashford, my kinsman, and Mr. Charles
Howard at his extraordinary garden at Dipden.
15. I went to visit Mr. Arthur Onslow at West Clandon, a pretty
dry seate on ye Downes, where we din'd in his greate roome.
17. To visit Mr. Hussey *, who being neere Wotton, lives in a
sweete vally deliciously watered.
23. To Alburie to see how that garden proceeded, which 1 found
exactly don to the designe and plot I had made, with the crypta thro'
* At Sutton in Shere.

432 [1670
the mountaine in the park, 30 perches in length. Such a Pausilippe*
is no where in England besides. The canall was now digging, and the
vineyard planted.
14 October. I spent the whole afternoon in private with the Trea
surer, who put into my hands those secret pieces and transactions con
cerning the Dutch war, and' particularly the expedition of Bergen, in
which he had himselfe the cheife part, and gave me instructions, till
the King ariving from New-market we both went up into his bed
chamber. 21. Din'd with the Treass1', and after dinner we were shut up to
gether. I receiv'd other [[further] advises, and ten paper bookes of
dispatches and treaties ; to return which againe I gave a note under my
hand to Mr. Jos. Williamson, Master of the Paper Office.
31. I was this morning fifty yeares of age : The Lord teach me to
number my daies so, as to apply them to his glory. Amen.
4 Nov. Saw the Prince of Orange newly come to see the King his
uncle; he has a manly, courageous, wise countenance, resembling his
mother and the Duke of Gloucester, both deceas'd.
I now also saw that famous beauty, but in my opinion of a childish,
simple, and baby face, Mademoiselle Querouaille f , lately Maide of
Honr to Madame, and now to be so to ye Queene.
23. Din'd with the Earle of Arlington, where was the Venetian
Ambassador, of whom I now tooke solemne leave, now on his returne.
There were also Lords Howard, Wharton, Windsor, and divers other
greate persons.
24. I din'd with y11 Treasr, where was yfc Earle of Rochester, a very
prophane wit.
15 December. It was the thickest and darkest fogg on the Thames
that was ever-known in ye memory of man, and I happened to be In

* A word adopted by Mr. Evelyn for a subterranean passage, from tbe famous' grot of Pau-
syllipo, at Naples.
f Henrietta, the King's sister, married to Philip Duke of Orleans, was then on a visit here.
Madame Querouaille came over in her train, on purpose to entice Charles into an union with
Lewis XIV. which unhappily succeeded but too well. She becanje the King's mistress, was made
Dutchess of Portsmouth, and was his favourite till his death. See pp. 442, 443.

1671.] 433
the very midst of it. I supped with Monsr Zulestein, late Governor
to yc late Prince of Orange.
1671. 10 Jan. Mr. Bohun, my son's tutor, had ben 5 yeares in
my house, and now Batchelor of Laws and Fellow of New Coll. went
from me to Oxford to reside there, having well and faithfully per
form'd his charge.
18. This day I first acquainted his Ma*? with that incomparable
young man Gibbon *, whom I had lately met with in an obscure place
* Usually known by the name of Gibbons ; celebrated for his exquisite carving. His principal
performance is said to be at Petworth. The following account of him appears in Walpole's Cata
logue of Painters, and incidental notes of other Artists, collected by Geo. Vertue.
" Grinling Gibbon. — An original genius, a citizen of nature. There is no instance before him of
a man who gave to wood the loose and airy lightness of flowers, and chained together the various
productions of the elements with the free disorder natural to each species. It is uncertain whe
ther he was born in Holland or in England ; it is said that he lived in Bell Savage Court, Ludgate
hill, and was employed by Betterton in decorating the Theatre in Dorset Garden. He lived after
wards at Deptford, in the same house with a musician, where the beneficent and curious Mr. Evelyn
found and patronised both. This gentleman, Sir P. Lely, and Bap. May, who was something of an
Architect himself, recommended Gibbons to Cha. II. who was too indolent to search for genius, and
too indiscriminate in his bounty to confine it to merit, but was always pleased when it was brought
home to him. He gave the artist a place in the Board of Works, and employed his hand on ornaments
of most taste in his palaces, particularly at Windsor. Gibbon, in gratitude, made a present of
his own bust in wood to Mr. Evelyn, who kept it at his house in Dover street. The piece that had
struck so good a judge was a large carving in wood of St Stephen stoned, long preserved in the
sculptor's own house, and afterwards purchased and placed by the Duke of Chandos at Cannons."
Mr. Walpole is not quite correct in this account. Gibbon, when young, was found by Mr.
Evelyn in a small house in Deptford, working on that famous piece from Tintoret, here said to re
present the stoning of St. Stephen, and which seems from Mr. Evelyn's account, to have been his
first performance of consequence. It must have been afterwards that he lived in Belle Sauvage
Yard, and that he worked on the Theatre in Dorset Gardens. Mr. Evelyn does not mention a
musician, and says there was only an old woman with him in the house at Deptford. It was Mr.
Evelyn who recommended him' to the King, to Mr. May the architect, and to Sir Christopher
Wren. Of the bust nothing is known at Wotton.
Copy from an original Letter addressed by G. Gibbon to Mr. Evelyn, now at Wotton.
Honred
S>" I wold beg the faver wen you see Sr Joseff Williams (Williamson) again you wold be pleasd
to speack to him that hee wold get me to Carve his Ladis sons hous my Lord Kildare for I onder-
stand it will (be) verry considerabell ar If you haen Acquantans wich my Lord to speack to him his
sealf and I shall for Ev're be obliaged to You I wold speack to Sir Josef my sealf but I knouw it
wold do better from you Sr youre Most umbell
Sarvant
Lond. 23 Mar. 16S2. . G. Gibbon.
Mr. Evelyn wrote to Lord Kildare recommending Mr. Gibbon ; and to Mr. Gibbon with the letter.
VOL. I. 3 K

434 [1671.
by meere accident as 1 was walking neere a poore solitary thatched
house, in a field in our parish, neere SaysCourt. I found him shut
in ; but looking in at the window I perceiv'd him carving that large
cartoon or crucifix of Tintoret, a copy of which I had myselfe brought
from Venice, where the original painting remaines. I asked if I
might enter ; he open'd the door civilly to me, and I saw him about
such a work as for ye curiosity of handling, drawing, and studious
exactnesse, I never had before seene in all my travells. I questioned
him why he worked in such an obscure and lonesome place ; he told
me it was that he migbt apply himselfe to his profession without inter
ruption, and wondred not a little how I had found him out. I asked
if he was unwilling to be made knowne to some greate man, for that I
believed it might turn to his profit; he answer'd he was yet but a be
ginner, but would not be sorry to sell off that piece ; on demanding the
price, he said 100/. In good earnest the very frame was worth the
money, there being nothing in nature so tender and delicate as the
flowers and festoons about it, and yet the worke was very strong ; in
the piece were more than 100 figures of men, &c. I found he was
likewise musical, and very civil, sober, and discreete in his discourse.
There was onely an old woman in the house. So desiring leave to
visite him sometimes, I went away.
Of this young artist, together with my manner of finding him out,
I acquainted tbe King, and begg'd that he would give me leave to
bring him and his worke to White-hall, for that I would adventure my
reputation with his Ma'? that he had never seene any thing approch it,
and that he would be exceedingly pleased, and employ him. The
King said he would himselfe go see him. This was the first notice
his Majestie ever had of Mr. Gibbon.
20. The King came to me in the Queen's withdrawing roome from
the circle of ladies, to talk with me as to what advance I had made in
the Dutch Historie. I din'd with the Tressr, and afterwards we went
to the Secretane's Office, where we conferred about divers particulars.
21. I was directed to go to Sr Geo. Downing, who having ben a
publick minister in Holland at the beginning of ye war, was to give
me light in some material passages.

1671.] 435
This yeare the weather was so wet, stormy, and unseasonable, as
had not ben knowne In many yeares.
9 Feb. I saw the greate ball danc'd by the Queene and distin
guished ladies at White- hall Theater. Next day was acted there the
famous play call'd " The Siege of Granada*," two days acted succes
sively ; there were indeede very glorious sceanes and perspectives, the
worke of Mr. Streeter, who well understands it.
19. This day din'd with me Mr. Surveyor Dr. Chrr Wren, and Mr.
Pepys, Cleark of the Acts, two extraordinary ingenious and knowing
persons, and other friends. I carried them to see the piece of carving
wch I had recommended to the King.
25. Came to visit me one of the Lords Commissrs of Scotland for
the Union.
28. The Treasurer acquainted me that his Ma'? was graciously
pleas'd to nominate me one of the Council of Forraine Plantations, and
give me a salary of 5001. pr. ann. to encourage me.
29. I went to thank the Treasurer, who was my greate friend and
loved me; I dined with him and much company, and went thence to my
Lo. Arlington, Secretary of State, in whose favour I likewise was upon
many occasions, tho' I cultivated neither of their friendships by any
meane submissions. I kiss'd his Ma'^ hand on his making me one of
that new established Council.
1 Mar. I caused Mr. Gibbon to bring to White-hall his excellent
piece of carving, where being come I advertis'd his Majestie, who ask'd
me where it was ; I told him in Sr Richard Browne's (my father-in-
law) chamber, and that if it pleas'd his Ma^ to appoint whither it
should be brought, being large and tho' of wood heavy, I wod take
care for it; " No," says the King, " shew me yc way, I'll go to Sir
Richard's chamber," which he immediately did, walking along the
entries after me ; as far as the ewrie, till he came up into the roome
where I also lay. No sooner was he enter'd and cast his eye on the
work but he was astonish'd at the curiositie of it, and having consider'd
it a long time and discours'd with Mr. Gibbon, whom I brought to

The Conquest of Granada," by Dryden.

436 [1671.
Aisse his hand, he commanded it should be immediately carried to the
Queenes side to shew her. It was carried up into her bed chamber,
where she and the King looked on and admired it againe ; the King
being call'd away left us with the Queene, believing she would have
bought it, it being a crucifix ; but when his Ma'? was gon, a French
pedling woman, one Mad. de Boord, who us'd to bring peticoates and
fanns, and baubles out of France to the Ladys, began to find fault with
severall things in the worke, which she understood no more than an
asse or a monkey, so as in a kind of indignation, I caused the person
who brought it to carry it back to the chamber, finding the Queene so
much govem'd by an ignorant French woman, and this incomparable
artist had his labour onely for his paines, which not a little displeas'd
me, and he was faine to send it downe to his cottage againe ; he not
long after sold it for ^6.80. tho' well worth ,^.100. without the frame,
to Sir Geo. Viner.
His Ma'J'5 Surveyor, Mr. Wren, faithfully promis'd me to employ
him*. I having also bespoke his Ma*? for his worke at Windsor, which
my friend Mr. May the architect there was going to alter and repaire
universally ; for on the next day I had a fair opportunity of talking to
his Ma'y about it, in ye lobby next the Queenes side, where I presented
him with some sheetes of my Historie. I thence walk'd with him thro'
St. James's Parke to the garden, where I both saw and heard a very
familiar discourse between  and Mrs. Nellie f as they cal'd an
impudent comedian, she looking out of her garden on a terrace at the
top of the wall, and  standing on ye greene walke under it. I
was heartily sorry at this scene. Thence the King walked to the Dut
chess of Cleaveland, anofher lady of pleasure, and curse of our nation.
5. I dined at Greenewich, to take leave of Sr Tho. Linch, going
Governor of Jamaica.
10. To London about passing my patent as one of the standing
Council for Plantations, a considerable honour, the others in yfc Council
being cheifly Noblemen, and Officers of State.

* The carving in the Choir, &c. of St. Paul's Cathedral was executed by Gibbon.
t Nell Gwyn : there can be no doubt with what name to fill up these blanks.

*67*-] 437
2 April. To Sr Tho. Clifford the Treasurer, to condole with him on
the losse of his eldest son, who died at Florence.
2 May. The French King being now with a greate army of 28,000
men about Dunkirk, divers of the grandees of that Court, and a vast
number of gentlemen and cadets in fantastical habites came flocking
over to see, our Court, and compliment his Ma'?. I was present when
they first were conducted into the Queenes withdrawing roome, where
saluted their Majesties the Dukes of Guise, Longueville, and many
others of the first sort.
10. Din'd at Mr. Treasrs, where dined Monsr De Gramont and se
verall French noblemen, and one Blood, that impudent bold fellow
who had not long before attempted to steale the imperial crowne itselfe
out of the Tower, pretending onely curiositie of seeing the regalia there,
when stabbing the keeper, tho' not mortally, he boldly went away with
it thro' all the guards, taken onely by the accident of his horse falling
down. How he came to be pardoned, and even received into favour,
not onely after this, but severall other exploits almost as daring both in
Ireland and here, I could never come to understand. Some believed he
became a spie of severall parties, being well with the Sectaries and En
thusiasts, and did his Maty services that way, which none alive could
do so well as he ; but it was certainely as the boldest attempt, so the
onely treason of this sort that was ever pardon'd. The man had not
onely a daring but a villainous unmercifull looke, a false countenance,
but very well spoken and dangerously insinuating.
11. I went to Eltham to sit as one of the Commissioners about ye
subsidie now given by Parliament to his Majesty.
17. Dined at Mr. Treass™ [Sir Tho. Clifford] with the Earl of
Arlington, Carlingford, Lord Arundel of Wardour, Lo. Almoner to
the Queene, a French Count, and two abbots, with several more of
French nobility ; and now by something I had lately observed of Mr.
Treasurer's conversation on occasion, I suspected him a little warping
to Rome.
25. I dined at a feast made for me and my wife by the Trinity
Company for our passing a fine of the land which Sr R. Browne my
wife's father freely gave to found and build their CoUedge or Almes-

438 [1671-
houses on at Deptford, it being my wife's after her father's decease.
It was a good and charitable worke and gift, but would have ben
better bestow'd on yL poore of that parish, than on the seamens
widows, the Trinity Comp^ being very rich, and the rest of the poore
of the parish exceedingly indigent.
26. The Earle of Bristol's house in Queene Street [Lincoln's Inn
Fields], was taken for the Commrs of Trade and Plantations, and fur
nish'd with rich hangings of the King's. It consisted of seven roomes
on a floore, with a long gallery, gardens, &c. This day we met : the
Duke of Buckingham, Earl of Lauderdalle, Lord Culpeper, Sr Geo.
Carteret Vice Chamberlaine, and myselfe, had the oathes given us
by the Earle of Sandwich, our President. It was, to advise and
counsel his Ma* to the best of our abillities for the well governing of
his Forraine Plantations, &c. the forme very little differing from that
given to the Privy Council. We then tooke our places at the Board in
the Council Chamber, a very large roome furnished with atlases, mapps,
charts, globes, &c. Then came ye Lord Keeper, Sr Orlando Bridge-
man, Earl of Arlington, Secretary of State, Lord Ashley, Mr. Trea
surer, Sir John Trevor the other Secretary, Sir John Duncomb, Lord
Allington, Mr. Grey, son to yc Lord Grey, Mr. Henry Broncher, S1
Humfry Winch, Sr John Finch, Mr. Waller, and Coll. Titus of the
Bedchamber, with Mr. Slingsby Secretary to the Council, and two
Clearks of ye Council, who had all ben sworne some dayes before.
Being all set, our Patent was read, and then the additional Patent, in
which was recited this new establishment ; then was delivered to each
a copy of the Patent and of instructions : after which we proceeded to
business. The first thing we did was to settle the forme of a circular
letter to the Governors of all his Ma'*'8 Plantations and Territories in
the West Indies and Islands thereof, to give them notice to whom they
should apply themselves on all occasions, and to render us an account
of their present state and government ; but what we most insisted on
was to know the condition of New England, which appearing to be
very independent as to their regard to Old England or his Ma*, rich
and strong as they now were, there were greate debates in what style
to write to them, for the condition of that Colony was such that they

1671.] 439
were able to contest with all other Plantations about them, and there
was feare of their breaking from all dependance on this Nation ; his
Maty therefore commended this affaire more expressly. We therefore
thought fit in the first place to acquaint ourselves as well as we could of
the state of that place, by some whom we heard of that were newly
come from thence, and to be informed of their present posture and con
dition ; some of our Council were for sending them a menacing letter,
which those who better understood ye peevish and touchy humor of that
Colonie, were utterly against.
A letter was then read from Sr Tho. Modiford, Governor of Jamaica ;
and then the Council brake up.
Having brought an action against one Cock for money which he had
receiv'd for me, it had been referred to an arbitration by the recom
mendation of that excellent good man the Chief Justice Hales ; but this
not succeeding, I went to advise with that famous lawyer Mr. Jones, of
Gray's Inn, and 27 May had a trial before the Lo. Ch. Justice Hales,
and after the lawyers had wrangled sufficiently, it was referred to a new
arbitration. This was the very first suit at law that ever I had with
any creature, and 6 that it might be the last !
1 June. An installation at Windsor.
6. I went to Council, where was produc'd a most exact and ample
information of the state of Jamaica, and of the best expedients as to
New England, on which there was a long debate, but at length 'twas
concluded that, if any, it should be only a conciliating paper at first,
or civil letter, till we had better information of ye present face of things,
since we understood they were a people almost upon the very brink of
renouncing any dependance on ye Crowne.
19. To a splendid dinner at the greate roome in Deptford Trinity
House, Sr Tho. Allen chosen Master, and succeeding the Earle of
Craven. 20. To carry Coll. Midleton to White-hall to my Lo. Sandwich,
our President, for some information which he was able to give of the
state of the Colonie in New England.
21. To Council againe, when one Coll. Cartwright, a Nottingham
shire man, (formerly in commission with Coll. Nicholls) gave us a con-

440 [1671.
siderable relation of that country, on which the Council concluded that
in the first place a letter of amnestle should be dispatch'd,
24. Constantine Hugens, Sig1 of Zuylichem, that excellent learned
man, poet, and musitian, now neere 80 yeares of age, a vigorous, brisk
man, came to take leave of me before his returne into Holland with the
Prince, whose Secretary he was.
26. To Council, where Lo. Arlington acquainted us that it was
his Ma*s proposal we should every One of us contribute 20/. towards
building a Council-chamber and conveniences somewhere in White-hall,
that his Ma* might come and sit amongst us and. heare our debates;
the mony we laid out to be reimbours'd out of the contingent monies
already set apart for us, viz. 1000/. yearly. To this we unanimously
consented. There came an uncertaine bruite from Barbados of some
disorder there. On my return home I stept in at the Theater to see
the new machines for the intended scenes, which were Indeede very
costly and magnificent.
29. To Council, where were letters from Sr Tho. Modiford, of the
expedition and exploit of Coll. Morgan* and others of Jamaica on the
Spanish Continent at Panama.
4 July. To Council, where we drew up and agreed to a letter to be
sent to New England, and made some proposal to Mr. Gorges for his
interest in a Plantation there.
24. To Council. Mr. Surveyor brought us a plot for the building
of our Council-chamber, to be erected at the end of the Privy-garden
in White-hall.
3 Aug*. A full appearance at the Council. The matter in debate
was, whether we should send a Deputy to New England, requiring
them of the Massachusets to restore such to their limits and respective
possessions as had petition'd y Council ; this to be the open Commis
sion onely, but in truth with seacret instructions to informe the Council
of the condition of those Colonies, and whether they were of such
power as to be able to resist his Ma* and declare for themselves as
independent of the Crowne, which we were told, and which of late

See more of him afterwards.

1671- J 441
yeares made them refractorie. Coll. Midleton being call'd in, assur'd
us they might be curb'd by a few of his Ma*s first-rate fregats, to
spoile their trade with the islands ; but tho' my Lo. President was not
satisfied, the rest were, and we did resolve to advise his Ma* to send
Commissrs with a formal Commission for adjusting boundaries, &c.
with some other instructions.
19. To Council. The letters of Sir Tho. Modiford were read,
giving relation of the exploit at Panama, which was very brave ; they
tooke, burnt and pillag'd ye towne of vast treasures, but the best of the
booty had ben shipp'd off and lay at anchor in the South Sea, so
that after our men had rang'd the country 60 miles about, they went
back to Nombre de Dios, and embarq'd for Jamaica. Such an action
had not ben done since the famous Drake.
I dined at the Hambrogh Resident's, and after dinner went to the
christening of Sr Sam. Tuke's son Charles, at Somerset House, by a
Popish priest with many odd ceremonies. The godfathers were the
King and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and godmother the Countesse of
Huntingdon. 29 Aug. To London with some more papers of my progresse in the
Dutch Warr, delivered to ye Treasurer.
1 Sept. Dined with the Treasurer in company with my Ld Arling
ton, Halifax, & Sir Tho. Strickland ; and next day went home, being
the anniversarie of the late dreadfull fire of London.
13 Sept. This night fell a dreadful tempest.
15. In the afternoone at Council, where letters were read from Sir
Ch. Wheeler concerning his resigning his Governm' of St. Christopher's.
21. I din'd in the Citty at the fraternity feast in Yron-mongers
Hall *, where the 4 stewards chose their successors for the next yeare,
with a solemn procession, garlands about their heads and musiq play
ing before them, so coming up to the upper tables where the gentlemen
sate, they drank to the new stewards, and so we parted.
22. I dined at the Treasurer's, where I had discourse with Sir Hen.
Jones (now come over to raise a regiment of horse), concerning the
* One of the grand court-days of that opulent Company, which is one of twelve.
VOL. I. 3 L

442 [1671-
French conquests in Lorraine; he told me the King sold all things to
the souldiers, even to an handfull of hay.
Lord Sunderland was now nominated Ambassador to Spaine.
After dinner ye Treass1 carried me to Lincoln's Inn, to one of the
Parliament Clearks, to obtaine of him that I might carry home and
peruse some of the Journals, which were accordingly delivered to me
to examine about the late Dutch War. Returning home I went on
shore to see the Costome House, now newly rebuilt since the dreadfull
conflagration *.
9 Oct. I went after evening service to London, in order to a journey
of refreshment with Mr. Treasurer to Newmarket, where the King then
was, in his coach with 6 brave horses, which we changed thrice, first
at Bishops Stortford and last at Chesterford, so as by night we got
to New-market, where Mr. Henry Jermain (nephew to the Earle of
St. Alban's) lodged me very civlly. We went Immediately to Court,
the King and all ye English gallants being there at their autumnal
sports. Supp'd at the Lo. Chamberlaine's, and the next day after
dinner I was on the heath, where I saw the greate match run between
Woodcock and Flatfoot, belonging to the King and to Mr. Eliot of ye
Bedchamber, many thousands being spectators ; a more signal race had
not ben run for many yeares.
This over, I went that night wth Mr. Treass1" to Euston, a palace of
Lord Arlington's, where we found Monsr Colbert (the French Ambas
sador), and the famous new French Maid of Honor, M'lle Querouaille f ,
now coming to be in , greate favor with the King. Here was also the
Countesse of Sunderland, and severall Lords and Ladies, who lodg'd
in the house.
During my stay here with Lord Arlington neere -a fortnight, his
Ma* came almost every second day with the Duke, who commonly
return'd to New-market, but the King often lay here, during which
time I had twice the honor to sit at dinner with him, with all freedome.

* This new edifice was again destroyed by fire in the month of February 1814, and has been
re-built in a very magnificent manner by Mr. Henry Peto, who contracted for the work at a price
much short of that proposed by any other builder.
t See p. 432.

1671.] 443
It was universaly reported that the faire Lady  was bedded one of
these nights, and the stocking flung, after the manner of a married
bride ; I acknowledge she was for the most part in her undresse all day,
and that there was fondnesse and toying with that young wanton ; nay,
'twas said I was at the former ceremony, but 'tis utterly false ; I neither
saw nor heard of any such thing whilst I was there, tho' I had ben in
her chamber, and all over that appartment late enough, and was my
selfe observing all passages with curiosity enough. However 'twas
with confidence believed she was first made a Misse, as they call these
unhappy creatures, with solemnity at this time.
On Sunday a young Cambridge Divine preached an excellent sermon
in the Chapell, the King and the Duke of York being present.
\6. Came all the greate men from New-market, and other parts
both of Suffolk and Norfolck, to make their court, the whole house
fill'd from one end to the other with lords, ladys and gallants ; there
was such a furnished table as I had seldome seene, nor any thing more
splendid and free, so that for 15 days there were entertained at least
200 people, and halfe as many horses, besides servants and guards, at
infinite expence.
In the morning we went hunting and hawking ; in the afternoone,
till almost morning, to cards and dice, yet I must say without noise,
swearing, quarrell, or confusion of any sort. I, who was no gamester,
had often discourse with the French Ambassador Colbert, and went
sometimes abroad on horseback with the ladys to take the aire, and
now and then to hunting; thus idly passing the time, but not without
more often recesse to my pretty apartment, where I was quite out
of all this hurry, and had leasure when I would, to converse with
bookes, for there is no man more hospitably easy to be withall than my
Lord Arlington, of whose particular friendship and kindness I had ever
a more than ordinary share. His house is a very noble pile, consisting
of 4 pavillions after the French, beside a body of a large house, and tho'
not built altogether, but form'd of additions to an old house (purchas'd
by his Lordship of one Sr T. Rookwood) yet with a vast expence made
not onely capable and, roomesome, but very magnificent and commo
dious, as well within as without, nor lesse splendidly furnish'd. The

444 [1671-
stayre-case is very elegant, the garden handsome, the canall beautifull,
but the soile drie, barren and miserably sandy, which flies in drifts as
the wind sits. Here my Lord was pleas'd to advise with me about
ordering his plantations of firs, elmes, limes, &c. up his parke, and in
all other places and avenues. I persuaded him to bring his park so
neere as to comprehend his house within it, which he resolv'd upon, it
being now neere a mile to it. The water furnishing the fountaines is
raised by a pretty engine, or very slight plaine wheels, which likewise
serve to grind his corne, from a small cascade of the canall, the inven
tion of Sir Sam. Moreland. In my Lord's house and especialy above
the stayre-case, in the greate hall and some of the chambers and roomes
of state, are paintings in fresco by Signr Verrio, being the first worke
which he did in England.
17- My Lord «Hen. Howard coming this night to visit my Lord
Chamberlaine, and staying a day, would needes have me go with him
to Norwich, promising to convey me back after a day or two ; this, as
I could not refuse, I was not hard to be persuaded to, having a desire
to see that famous scholar and physitian Dr. T. Browne, author of the
" Religio Medici," and "Vulgar Errors," &c. now lately knighted.
Thither then went my Lord and I alone in his flying chariot with 6
horses; and by the way, discoursing with me of severall of his con-
cernes, he acquainted me of his going to marry his eldest sonn to one
i of the King's natural daughters by the Dutchesse of Cleaveland, by
which he reckon'd he should come into mighty favour. He also told
me that tho' he kept that idle creature Mrs. B  *, and would leave
^.200 a yeare to ye sonne he had by her, he would never marry her,
and that the King himselfe had caution'd him against it. All the
world knows how he kept this promise.
Being come to the* Ducal Palace, my Lord made very much of me, but
1 had little rest, so exceeding desirous he was to shew me the contrivance
he had made for the entertainment of their Maties and the whole Court
not long before, and which, tho' much of it was but temporary, ap
parently fram'd of boards only, were yet standing. As to the Palace,
* Bickerton, see afterwards, under 1678, Jan. and August.

1671.] 445
it is an old wretched building, and that part of it newly built of brick
is very ill understood, so as I was of opinion it had ben much better to
have demolish'd all, and set it up in a better place, than to proceede
any farther ; for it stands in the very Market-place, and tho' neere a
river, yet a very narrow muddy one, and without any extent,
Next morning I went to see Sir Tho. Browne (with whom I had i
some time corresponded by letter, tho' I had never seen him before).
His whole house and garden being a paradise and cabinet of rarities,
and that of the best collection, especialy medails, books, plants, and
natural things. Amongst other curiosities Sir Thomas had a collection
of ye eggs of all the fqule and birds he could procure, that country
(especialy the promontary of Norfolck) being frequented, as he said,
by severall kinds wch seldome or never go farther into the land, as
cranes, storkes, eagles, and variety of water-foule. He led me to see
all ye remarkable places of this ancient Citty, being one of the largest,
and certainly, after London, one of the noblest of England, for its
venerable Cathedrall, number of stately churches, cleanesse of ye
streetes, and buildings of flints so exquisitely headed and squared as I
was much astonish'd at ; but he told me they had lost the art of
squaring the flints, in- which they once so much excell'd, and of wch
the churches, best houses, and walls, are built. The Castle is an an
tique extent of ground, which now they call Marsfield, and would
have ben a fitting area to have plac'd the Ducal palace in. The
suburbs are large, the prospects sweete, with other amenities, not
omitting the flower gardens, in which all the inhabitants excel. The
fabric of stuffs brings a vast trade to this populous towne.
Being return'd to my Lord's, who had ben with me all this morning,
he advis'd with me concerning a plot to rebuild his house, having
already as he said erected a front next the streete, and a left wing, and
now resolving to set up another wing and pavilion next ye garden, and
to convert the bowling-greene into stables. My advice was, to desist
from all, and to meditate wholly on rebuilding an handsome palace at
Arundell House in the Strand, before he proceeded farther here, and
then to place this in yc castle, that ground belonging to his Lordship.

446 1*671.
I observed that most of the Church-yards (tho' some of them large
enough) were filled up with earth, or rather the congestion of dead
bodys one upon another, for want of earth, even to the very top of the
walls, and some above the walls, so as the Churches seemed to be
built in pitts.
18 Oct. I return'd to Euston in my Lord's coach, leaving him at
Norwich, in company with a very ingenious gentleman, Mr. White,
whose father and mother (daughter to the late Lord Treass' Weston,
Earl of Portland) I knew at Rome, where this gentleman was borne,
and where his parents lived and died with much reputation, during
their banishment in our civil broils.
21. Leaving Euston, I lodged this night at New-market, where I
found ye jolly blades raceing, dauncing, feasting, and revelling, more
resembling a luxurious and abandon'd rout, than a Christian Court.
The Duke of Buckingham was now in mighty favour, and had with
him that impudent woman the Countess of Shrewsbury*, with his
band of fidlers, &c.
Next morning, in company with Sir Bernard Gascoyne and Lord
Hawly, I came in the Treassrs coach to Bishop Stortford, where he
gave us a noble supper. Next day to London, and so home.
14 Nov. To Council, where Sir Cha. Wheeler, late Govr of the
Leeward Islands, having ben complain'd of for many indiscreete ma
nagements, it was resolv'd, on scanning many of ye particulars, to
advise his Ma* to remove him, and consult what was to be don to pre
vent these inconveniences he had brought things to. This businesse
staide me in London almost a weeke, being in Council or Committee
every morning till the 25th.
27- We ordered that a Proclamation should be presented to his
Ma* to signe, against what Sr Cha. Wheeler had done in St. Chris -
topher's, since the war, on the articles of peace at Breda. He was
shortly afterwards recalled.
6 Dec. Came to visite me Sr William Haywood, a greate pretender
to English antiquities. * See hereafter, under 1679, July.

1672.] 447
14. Went to see the Duke of Buckingham's ridiculous farce and
rhapsody, called " The Recital *," buffooning all plays, yet prophane
enough. 23. The Councillors of the Board of Trade din'd together at ye
Cock in Suffolck streete.
1672, 12 Jan. His Ma* renewed us our lease of Says Court pas
tures for 99 yeares, but ought, according to his solemn promise + (as I
hope he will still perform), have passed them to us in fee farme.
23. To London, in order to Sr Richd Browne, my father in law,
resigning his place of Clerke of the Council to Joseph Williamson, Esq.
who was admitted, and was knighted. This place his Ma* had pro-
mis'd to give me many yeares before ; but upon consideration of the
renewal of our lease and other reasons, I chose to part with it to Sr
Joseph, who gave us and ye rest of his brother clearks a handsome
supper at his house, and after supper a consort of music.
3 Feb. An extraordinary snow : part of the weeke was taken up in
consulting about the commission of prisoners of war, and instructions
to our officers, in order to a second war with the Hollanders, his Ma*
having made choice of the former Commissrs and myselfe amongst them.
11. In the afternoone that famous proselyte, Mons1 Brevall,
preach'd at the Abby, in English, extreamly well and with much elo
quence. He had ben a Capuchine, but much better learned than
most of that order.
12. At the Council we enter'd on enquiries about improving the
Plantations by silks, galls, flax, senna, &c. and consider'd how nut
megs and cinamon might be obtain'd and brought to Jamaica, that
soile and climate promising successe. Dr. Worsley being called in,
spake many considerable things to encourage it. We tooke order to
send to the Plantations that none of their ships should adventure
homeward single, but stay for company and convoys. We also deli
berated on some fit person to go as Commissr to inspect their actions
in New England, and from time to time report how that people stood
affected. — In future to meete at White-hall.
* This must mean his play of " The Rehearsal."
t The King's engagement under his hand is now at Wotton.

448 [1672-
20. Dr. Parr of Camerwell preach'd a most pathetic funebral dis
course and panegyric at the interment of our late pastor, Dr. Breton
(who died on the 18th), on " Happy is y{ servant whom when his
Lord cometh, &c." This good man, among other expressions pro
fess'd that he had never ben so touch'd and concern'd at any losse as
at this, unlesse at that of K. Charles our Martyr, and Archbishop
Usher, whose chaplaine he had ben. Dr. Breton had preach'd on the
28th and 30th Jan. : on the Friday, having fasted all day, making
his provisionary sermon for the Sunday following, he went well
to bed, but was taken suddenly ill, and expir'd before help could
come to him.
Never had a parish a greater losse, not onely as he was an excellent
preacher, and fitted for our greate and vulgar auditory, but for his ex
cellent life and charity, his meeknesse and obliging nature, industrious,
helpfull, and full of good workes. He left neere ,^400. to the poore
in his will, and that what children of his should die in their minority,
their portion should be so employed. I lost in particular a special
friend, and one that had an extraordinary love to me and mine.
25. To London, to speake with the Bishop, and Sir John Cutler our
patron, to present Mr. Frampton (afterwards Bishop of Gloucester.)
1 March. A full Council of Plantations, on the danger of the Lee
ward Islands, threaten'd by the French, who had taken some of our
ships, and began to interrupt our trade. Also in debate, whether the
new Governor of St. Christopher's should be subordinate to the Govr
of Barbados. The debate was serious and long.
12. Now was the first blow given by us to the Dutch convoy of the
Smyrna fleete, by S1' Rob1 Holmes and Lord Ossorie, in which we re
ceived little save blows, and a worthy reproch for attacking our neigh
bours 'ere any war was proclaim'd, and then pretending the occasion to
be, that some time before, the Merlin yatcht chanceing to saile thro'
the whole Dutch fleete, their Admiral did not strike to that trifling
vessel. Surely this was a quarrel slenderly grounded, and not be
coming Christian neighbours. We are like to thrive accordingly.
Lord Ossorie several times deplor'd to me his being engaged in it ; he
had more justice and honour than in the least to approve of it, tho* he

1672.] 449
had ben over persuaded to the expedition. There is no doubt but we
should have surpriz'd this exceeding rich fleete, had not the avarice and
ambition of Holmes and Sprag separated themselves and wilfully
divided our fleete, on presumption that either of them was strong
enough to deale with the Dutch convoy without joyning and mutual
help ; but they so warmly plied our divided fleets, that whilst in con
flict the merchants sail'd away, and got safe Into Holland.
A few daies before this, the Treasurer of the Household, Sir Tho. *
Clifford *, hinted to me, as a confident, that his Ma* would shut up the
Exchequer (and accordingly his Ma* made use of infinite treasure
there, to prepare for an inteuded rupture) ; but, says he, it will soone
be open againe and every body satisfied ; for this bold man, who had
ben the sole adviser of the King to invade that sacred stock (tho'
some pretend it was Lord Ashley's counsel, then Chancellor of the
Exchr), was so over confident of the successe of this unworthy designe
against the Smyrna merchants, as to put his Ma* on an action which
not onely lost the hearts of his subjects, and ruined many widdows and

* The following is taken from King James's Life by himself: " On the King's intention to
have a Lord Treasurer (1672) instead of putting the Seals into Commission, the Duke of York
desired Lord Arlington to join with him in proposing to the King the Lord Clifford for that consi
derable employment; but he found Lord Arlington very cold in it, and endeavouring to persuade
the Duke that the King did not intend the alteration, and the next day he employed a friend to
press the Duke to endeavour to get Sir Robert Car to be Commissioner in the room of Lord
Shaftesbury (then appointed Lord Chancellor).
" Some few days after, the Duke proposed to his Majesty the Lord Clifford as Treasurer, which
was well received, and he said he would do it, as thinking no body fitter; he also told the Duke
that Lord Allington had a mind to have that Staff: but he answered him that he had too much
kindness for him to let him have it, for he knew he was not fit for the office j and should he give
it him, it would be his ruin. A little after the King told the Duke that he found Lord Arlington
was angry with Lord Clifford, "on knowing that he was to have the place; and desired the Duke to
persuade Lord Arlington not to let the world see his discontent, and to endeavour to make them
continue friends. They promised the Duke to live friendly together, but Lord Arlington kept not
his word, and was ever after cold, if not worse, towards him.
" Christmas coming on, the King spake to Lord Clifford and Lord Arundel of Wardour, to per
suade the Duke to receive the Sacrament with him at that time (which the Duke had forborne for
several months before). They urged the King not to press it, and he then seemed satisfied ; but
the day before Christmas Eve, the King spoke again to Lord Clifford to represent to the Duke what
he had before said, which the Lord Clifford did, but found the Duke was not to be moved in his
resolution of not going against his conscience."
VOL. i. 3m

450 [1672.
orphans whose stocks were lent him, but the reputation of his Exche
quer for ever, it being before in such credit, that he might have com
manded halfe the wealth of the Nation.
The credit of this bank being thus broken did exceedingly discontent
the people, and never did his Ma^3 affairs prosper to any purpose after
it, for as it did not supply the expence of the meditated war, so it
mealted away, I know not how.
To this succeeded the King's declaration for an universal tolleration ;
Papists and swarms of Sectaries now boldly shewing themselves in
their publiq meetings. This was imputed to yc same council, Clifford
warping to Rome as was believ'd, nor was Lord Arlington cleare of
suspicion, to gratifie that party, but as since it has prov'd, and was
then evidently foreseen, to the extreame weakening the Church of
England and its Episcopal Government, as 'twas projected. I speake
not this as my owne sense, but what was the discourse and thoughts
of others who were lookers on ; for I think there might be some relaxa
tions without the least prejudice to the present establishment, discreetly
limited, but to let go ye reines in this manner, and then to imagine
they could take them up againe as easily, was a false politiq and
greately destructive. The truth is, our Bishops slip'd the occasion,
for had they held a steady hand upon his Matys restauration, as they
might easily have don, the Church of England had emerg'd and flou-
rish'd without interruption ; but they were then remisse, and covetous
after advantages of another kind, whilst his Ma* suffer'd them to come
into an harvest, with which, without any injustice, he might have
remunerated innumerable gallant gentlemen for their services, who had
ruin'd themselves in ye late Rebellion*.
21 Mar. I visited the coasts in my district of Kent, and divers
wounded and languishing poore men that had ben in the Smyrna con
flict. I went over to see the new-begun Fort of Tilbury ; a royal work
indeede, and such as will one day bridle a greate Citty to the purpose,
before they are aware.
* This means the fines for renewals of leases not filled up during the Interregnum, and now to
be immediately applied for. Bishop Burnet says they were much misapplied. Hist, of his own
Time, I. 304.

1672.] 451
23. Capt. Cox, one of the Commiss" of the Navy, furnishing me
with a yatcht, I sail'd to Sheere-nesse to see that Fort also, now newly
finished ; severall places on both sides the Swale and Medway to Gil-
hngham and Upnore, being also provided with redouts and batteries,
to secure the station of our men of war at Chatham, and shut ye doore
when ye steedes were stolen.
24. I saw the chirurgeon cut off ye leg of a wounded sailor, the
stout and gallant man enduring it with incredible patience, without being
bound to his chaire as usual on such painfull occasions. I had hardly
courage enough to be present. Not being cut off high enough, the gan-
green prevail'd, and the second operation cost the poore creature his life.
Lord ! what miseries are mortal men subject to, and what confusion
and mischeif do the avarice, anger, and ambition of Princes cause in
the world !
25. I proceeded to Canterbury, Dover, Deal, the Isle of Thanet,
by Sandwich, and so to Margate. Here we had aboundance of mise
rably wounded men, his Ma* sending his cheife chirurgeon, Serjeant
Knight, to meete me, and Dr. Waldrond had attended me all the jour
ney. Having taken order for the accomodation of the wounded, I came
back thro' a country the best cultivated of any that in my life I had
any where seene, every field lying as even as a bowling-greene, and
the fences, plantations, and husbandry in such admirable order as
infinitely delighted me after the sad and afflicting spectacles and objects
I was come from. Observing almost every tall tree to have a weather
cock on the top bough, and some trees half a dozen, I learn'd that on
a certaine holyday the farmers feast their servants, at which solemnity
they set up these cocks in a kind of triumph.
Being come back towards Rochester, I went to take order about
building a strong and high wall about a house I had hired of a gentle
man at a place call'd Hartlip, for a prison, paying 50/. yearly rent.
Here I settled a Provost Martial and other Officers, returning by Fe-
versham. On the 30th heard a Sermon in Rochester Cathedrall, & so
got to Says Court on the first of Aprill.
4 April. I went to see the fopperies of the Papists at Somerset
House and York House, where now the French Ambassr had caus'd to

452 [*67*-
be represented our Blessed Saviour at the Paschal Supper with his Dis
ciples, in figures and puppets made as big as the life, of wax-work, cu
riously clad and sitting round a large table, the roome nobly hung, and
shining with innumerable lamps and candles: this was expos'd to all the
world, all the Citty came to see it: such liberty had the Roman Catho-
lies at this time obtain'd.
16. Sat in Council, preparing Lord Willougby's commission and
instructions as Governor of Barbados and the Caribbe' Islands.
17- Sat on business in ye Star Chamber.
19. At Council, preparing instructions for Col. Stapleton, now to
go Governor of St. Christopher's ; and heard the complaints of the
Jamaica merchants against the Spaniards for hindering them from
cutting Logwood on the maine land, where they have no pretence.
21. To my Lord of Canterbury, to entreate him to engage Sir
John Cutler, the patron, to provide us a grave and learned man, in
opposition to a novice.
30. Congratulated Mr. Treassr Clifford's new honour, being made
a Baron. 2 May. My sonn John was specially admitted of the Middle Temple
by Sir Fra. North, his Majesties Solicitor General, and since Chancellor.
I pray God bless this beginning, my intention being that he should
seriously apply himself to the study of the Law.
10. I was order'd by letter from the Council to repair forthwith to
his Ma*, whom I found in the Pal-Mai in St. James's Park, where
his Ma* coming to me from the company, commanded me to go imme
diately to the sea coast, and to observe the motion of the Dutch fleet
and ours, the Duke and so many of the flower of our Nation being now
under saile, coming from Portsmouth thro' ye Downes, where 'twas
believ'd there might be an encounter.
1 1 . Went to Chatham . — 1 2. Heard a Sermon in Rochester Cathedrall.
13. To Canterbury ; visited Dr. Bargrave *, my old fellow-traveller
in Italy, & great virtuoso.

* Dean of Canterbury, a great benefactor to the Cathedral Library there. See in Todd's " Life
of Milton" some curious particulars concerning him.

1672.] 453
14. To Dover, but the fleet did not appear till the 16th, when the
Duke of York with his and the French squadron, in all 170 ships (of
which above 100 were men of war) sail'd by, after ye Dutch, who were
newly withdrawn. Such a gallant and formidable navy never, I think,
spread saile upon ye seas. It was a goodly yet terrible sight, to behold
them as I did, passing Eastward by the straights twixt Dover and
Calais in a glorious day. The wind was yet so high that I could not wel
go aboard, and they were soon got out of sight. The next day having
visited our prisoners at the Castle, and saluted the Governor, I tooke
horse for Margate. Here, from the North Foreland Light-house-top
(which is a Pharos, built of bricq and having on ye top a cradle of iron
in which a man attends a greate sea-coal fire all the year long, when
the nights are darke, for the safeguard of sailors) we could see our fleete
as they lay at anker. The next morning they weighed, and sailed out
of sight to the N. E.
19. Went to Margate ; and the following day was carried to see a
gallant widow, brought up a farmoresse, and I think of gigantic race,
rich, comely, and exceedingly industrious. She put me in mind of
Debora and Abigail, her house was so plentifully stored with all man
ner of countrie provisions, all of her owne growth, and all her conve-
niencies so substantiall, neate, and well understood ; she herselfe so
jolly and hospitable ; and her land so trim and rarely husbanded that it
struck me with admiration at her ceconomie.
This towne much consists of Brewers of a certaine heady ale, and
they deale much in mault, &c. For the rest, tis raggedly built, and has
an ill haven, with a small fort of little concernment, nor is the island
well disciplin'd ; but as to the husbandry and rural part, far exceeding
any part of England, for the accurate culture of their ground, in wch
they exceed, even to curiositie and emulation.
We passed by Richborow, and in sight of Reculver, and so thro' a
sweete garden as it were, to Canterbury.
24. To London, and gave his Ma* an account of my journey, and
that I had put all things in readinesse upon all events, and so return'd
home sufficiently wearied.

454 1*672.
31. I receiv'd another command to repaire to the Sea-side; so I
went to Rochester, where I found many wounded, sick, and prisoners
newly put on shore after the engagement on the 28th, in which the
Earle of Sandwich, that incomparable person and my particular friend,
and divers more whom I loved, were lost. My Lord (who was Admiral
of ye Blew) was in the Prince, which was burnt, one of the best men of
war that ever spread canvass on the sea. There were lost with this
brave man, a son of Sir Cha. Cotterell (Master of the Ceremonies), and
a son of Sr Cha. Harbord (his Ma*'s Surveyor-general), two valiant and
most accomplish'd youths, full of virtue and courage, who might have
saved themselves, but chose to perish with my Lord, whom they ho
nour' d and loved above their own lives.
Here I cannot but make some reflections on things past. It was not
above a day or two that going to White-hall to take leave of his Lord
ship, who had his lodgings in the Privy Garden, shaking me by the hand
he bid me God-by'e, and said he thought he should see me no more,
and I saw to my thinking something boading in his countenance ;
" No," says he, " they will not have me live. Had I lost a fleete
(meaning on his returne from Bergen when he tooke the East India
prize) I should have fared better; but be it as it pleases God — I must
do something I know not what to save my reputation." Something to
this effect he had hinted to me ; thus I tooke my leave. I well remem
ber that the Duke of Albemarle, and my now Lord Clifford, had, I
know not why, no greate opinion of his courage, because in former
conflicts, being an able and experienc'd seaman (which neither of them
were), he always brought off his Ma*s ships without losse, tho' not
without as many markes- of true courage as the stoutest of them ; and
I am a witnesse that in the late war his owne ship was pierc'd like a
cullendar. But the buisinesse was, he was utterly against this war
from the beginning, and abhorr'd ye attacquing of the Smyrna fleete ;
he did not favor the heady expedition of Clifford at Bergen, nor was
he so furious and confident as was the Duke of Albemarle, who believed
he could vanquish the Hollanders with one squadron. My Lord Sand
wich was prudent as well as valiant, and all ways govern'd his affairs
with successe and little losse; he was for deliberation and reason, they

1672.] 455
for action and slaughter without either, and for this, whisper'd as if my
Lord Sandwich was not so gallant because he was not so rash, and
knew how fatal it was to loose a fleete, such as was that under his
conduct, and for which these very persons would have censur'd him on
the other side. This it was, I am confident, griev'd him and made him
enter like a lion, and fight like one too, in the midst of the hottest
service, where the stoutest of the rest seeing him engag'd and so many
ships upon him, durst not, or would not, come to his succour, as some
of them, whom I know, might have don. Thus this gallant person
perish'd to gratifie the pride and envy of some I nam'd.
Deplorable was the losse of one of the best accomplish'd persons,
not onely of this Nation but of any other. He was learned in sea
affaires, in politics, in mathematics, and in musiq; he had been on
divers embassies, was of a sweete and obliging temper, sober, chast,
very ingenious, a true Nobleman, an ornament to the Court and his
Prince, nor has he left any behind him who approch his many virtues.
He had, I confesse, serv'd the tyrant Cromwell when a young man,
but 'twas without malice, as a souldier of fortune ; and he readily sub
mitted, and that with joy, bringing an entire fleete with him from the*
Sound, at ye first tidings of his Majestie's Restauration. I verily believe
him as faithfull a subject as any that were not his friends; I am yet
heartily griev'd at this mighty losse, nor do I call it to my thoughts
without emotion.
2 June. Trinity Sonday I pass'd at Rochester; and on the 5th there
was buried in the Cathedral Monsr Rabiniere, reare Admiral of the
French squadron, a gallant person, who died of the wounds he received
in the fight. This ceremonie lay on me, which I perform'd with all the
decency I could, inviting the Mayor and Aldermen to come in their
formalities ; Sir Jonas Atkins was there with his guards ; and the Deane
and Prebendaries : one of his countrymen pronouncing a funeral ora
tion at the brink of his grave, which I caus'd to be dug in the Quire.
This is more at large describ'd In the Gazette of that day. Col.
Reymes, my colleague in Commission, assisting, who was so kind as
to accompany me from London, tho* it was not his district, for indeede
the stresse of both these warrs lay more on me by far than on any of

456 [1672.
my breathren, who had little to do in theirs, — I went to see Upnore
Castle, wch I found pretty well defended, but of no greate moment.
Next day I sailed to the fleete, now riding at the Buoy of the Nore,
where I met his Majesty, the Duke, Lord Arlington, and all the greate
men, in the Charles, lying miserably shatter'd ; but ye misse of Lord
Sandwich redoubl'd the losse to me, and shew'd the folly of hazarding
so brave a fleete, and loosing so many good men for no provocation
but that ye Hollanders exceeded us in industrie, and in all things but
envy. At Sheernesse I gave his Ma* and his Royal Highnesse an account
of my charge, and return'd to Queenborow ; next day dined at Major
Dorels, Governor of Shere-nesse ; thence to Rochester, and the fol
lowing day home.
12. To London to his Ma*, to solicite for mony for the sick and
wounded, wch he promised me.
19. To London againe, to solicite the same.
21; At a Council of Plantations. Most of this weeke busied with
ye sick and wounded.
3 July. To Lord Sandwich's funeral, which was by water to
Westminster in solemn pomp.
31. I entertain'd the Maids of Honour (among whom there was
one I infinitely esteemed for her many and extraordinary virtues) at a
comedy this afternoone, and so went home *.
1 Aug*. I was at the marriage of Lord Arlington's onely daughter
(a sweete child If ever there was any f) to the Duke of Grafton, the
King's natural son by the, Dutchesse of Cleaveland. The Abp. of
Canterbury officiating, the King and all the grandees being present.
I had a favour given me by my Lady, but tooke no greate joy at the
thing for many reasons.
18. Sir James Hayes, Secretary tq Prince Rupert, dined with me :
after dinner I was sent for to Gravesend, to dispose of no fewer than

* Mrs. Blagg, whom he afterwards characterizes as a rare example of piety and virtue in so rare
a witt, beauty, and perfection, in a licentious court and depraved age. She was afterwards mar
ried to Mr. Godolphin.
f She was then only 5 years old.

1672.] 457
800 sick men. That night I got to the Fleete at the Buoy of the
Nore, where I spake with the King and ye Duke ; and after dinner
next day return'd to Gravesend.
1 Sept. I spent this weeke in soliciting for monies, and in reading
to my Lord Clifford my papers relating to tbe first Holland war. 
Now our Council of Plantations met at Lord Shaftesbury's (Chancr of
the Exchequer) to reade and reforme the Draught of our new Patent,
joyning the Council of Trade to our political capacities. After this I
returned home in order to another excursion to the Sea-side, to get as
many as possible of ye men who were recovered on board ye Fleete.
8. I lay at Gravesend, thence to Rochester, returning on the 11th.
15. Dr. Duport, Greek Professor of Cambridge, preached before the
King on 1 Timothy 6. 6. No greate preacher, but a very worthy and
learned man.
25. I din'd at Lord John Berkley's *, newly ariv'd out of Ireland,
where he had ben Deputy ; it was in his new house -j*, or rather palace,
for I am assur'd it stood him in neere ^.30,000. It is very well built,
and has many noble roomes, but they are not very convenient, con
sisting but of one Corps de Logis ; they are all roomes of state,
without clossets. The staire-case is of cedar, the furniture is princely :
the kitchen and stables are ill plac'd, and the corridore worse, having
no report to the wings they joy ne to. For the rest, the fore court is
noble, so are the stables, and above all, the gardens, which are incompa
rable by reason of the inequalitie of the ground, and a pretty piscina.
The holly hedges on the terrace I advised the planting of. The por
ticos are in imitation of an house described by Palladio, but it happens
to be the worst in his booke, tho' my good friend Mr. Hugh May, his
Lordship's architect, effected it.
26. I carried with me to dinner my Lord H. Howard, (now to be
made Earl of Norwich and Earl Marshall of England) to Sr Rob1.

* Lord Berkley of Stratton.
f Berkeley House was burnt to the ground by accident. The site was on a farm called Hay-hill
Farm, the names of which are preserved in Hay-street, Hill-street, Farm-street. Devonshire House,
Lansdown House, Berkeley Square, &c. are built on part of the ground.
VOL. I. 3 N

458 [1672-
Clayton's, now Sheriff of London, at his new house*, where we had a
great feast; it is built indeede for a greate Magistrate, at excessive
cost. The cedar dining-roome is painted with the historie of the
Gyants War, incomparably don by Mr. Streeter, but the figures are
too neere the eye.
6 Oct. Dr. Thistlethwait preached at White-hall on 2 Apoc. 5. a
young but good preacher. I received the blessed Communion, Dr.
Blandford, Bp. of Worcester, and Deane of ye Chapel, officiating. Dined
at my Ld Cliffords with Lord Mulgrave, Sir Gilbert Talbot, and Sir
Robert Holmes.
8. I tooke leave of my Lady Sunderland, who was going to Paris
to my Lord, now Ambassador there. She made me stay dinner at
Leicester House, and afterwards sent for Richardson the famous Fire-
eater. He devour'd brimston on glowing coales before us, chewing
and swallowing them ; he mealted a beere-glasse and eate it quite up;
then taking a live coale on his tongue, he put on it a raw oyster, the
coal was blown on with bellows till it flam'd and sparkl'd in his mouth,
and so remain'd till the oyster gaped and was quite boil'd ; then he
mealted pitch and wax with sulphur, which he drank downe as it
flamed ; I saw it flaming in his mouth a good while ; he also tooke up
a thick piece of yron, such as laundresses use to put in their smoothing-
boxes, when it was fiery hot, held it betweene his teeth, then in his
hand, and threw it about like a stone, but this I observ'd he car'd not
to hold very long ; then he stood on a small pot, and bending his body
tooke a glowing yron with his mouth from betweene his feete, without
touching the pot or ground with his hands; with divers other pro
digious feates.

* Situate in the Old Jewry. Sir Robert built it to keep his shrievalty, which he did with great
magnificence. It was for some years the residence of Mr. Samuel Sharp, an eminent surgeon,
and was afterwards occupied (viz. from 1806 to the close of the year IS 11) by the London Insti
tution for their library and reading rooms, previous to their temporary removal to King's Arms
Yard, Coleman Street. This Literary Institution, established by Charter, is now finally settled in
a new and splendid mansion, purposely erected by the proprietors, from a design by Mr. W.
Brooks, on the North side of Moorfields (ISIS). — Streeter's paintings have been long placed in the
family seat of the Claytons at Marden, near Godstone, Surre.y.

1672.] 459
13. After sermon (being summon'd before) I went to my Lord
Keeper's Sir Orlando Bridgeman at Essex House, where our new Patent
was opened and read, constituting us that were of the Council of Plan
tations to be now of the Council of Trade also, both united. After the
Patent was read, we all tooke our oathes and departed.
24. Met in Council, the Earle of Shaftesbury, now our President,
swearing our Secretary and his Clearks, which was Mr. Lock, an excel
lent learned gentleman and student of Christ Church, Mr. Lloyd and
Mr. Frowde. We dispatch'd a letter to Sir Tho. Linch, Gov' of
Jamaica, giving him notice of a design of ye Dutch on that island.
27- I went to heare that famous preacher Dr. Frampton at St.
Giles's, on 39 Psalm 6. This Divine had ben twice at Jerusalem, and
was not onely a very pious and holy man, but excellent in the pulpit
for the moving affections.
8 Nov. At Council we debated the buisinesse of the Consulage of
Leghorne. I was of the Committee with Sr Humphrey Winch the
Chaireman to examine the Lawes of his Ma*s severall Plantations and
Colonies in the West Indies, &c.
15. Many Merchants were summon'd about the Consulage of
Venice ; which caused greate disputes ; the most considerable thought
it useless. This being the Queen Consort's birth-day, there was an
extraordinarle appearance of gallantrle, and a ball daunced at Court.
30. I was chosen Secretary to the Royall Society.
21 Dec. Settl'd ye Consulage of Venice.
1673. 1 Jan. After publiq prayers In the Chapell at White-hall,
when I gave God solemne thanks for all his mercys to me the yeare
past, &c. and my humble supplications to him for his blessing the yeare
now entering, I returned home, having my poore deceased servant
(Adams) to bury, who died of a pleurisie.
3. My sonn now publish'd his Version of " Rapinus Hortorum'*."
28. Visited Don Francisco de Melos, the Portugal Ambassr, who
shew'd me his curious Collection of Books and Pictures. He was a
person of good parts, and a vertuous man.
* Of Gardens. Four Books. First written in Latin verse, by Renatus Rapinus, and now made
English. By I. E. London, 1673. Dedicated to Henry Earle of Arlington, &c. &c. &c.

460 [1673-
6 Feb. To Council about reforming an abuse of the Diers with
Saundus and other false drougs ; examin'd divers of that trade.
23. The Bishop of Chichester * preach'd before ye King on 2 Coloss.
14, 15. admirably well, as he can do nothing but what is well.
5 Mar. Our new- Vicar Mr. Holden preach'd in White-hall Chapel
on 4 Psalm 6, 7- This gent" is a very excellent and universal scholar,
a good and wise man, but he had not the popular way of preaching,
nor is in any measure fit for our plaine and vulgar auditorie, as his pre
decessor was. There was, however, no comparison betwixt their parts
for profound learning ; but time and experience may forme him to
a more practical way than that he is in of University lectures and
erudition, which is now universally left off for what is much more
profitable. 15. I heard the speech made to the Lords in their House by Sir
Sam. Tuke in behalfe of the Papists, to take off the Penal Laws ; and
then dined with Col. Norwood.
16. Dr. Pearson, Bishop of Chester f, preach'd on 9th Hebrews 14 ;
a most incomparable sermon from one of the most learned Divines of
our Nation. I din'd at my Lord Arlington's with the Duke and
Dutchesse of Monmouth ; she is one of the wisest and craftiest of her
sex, and has much witt. Here was also ye learned Isaac Vossius.
During Lent there is constantly the most excellent preaching by the
most eminent Bishops and Divines of the Nation.
26 Mar. I was sworn a younger brother of the Trinity House, with
my most worthy and long acquainted noble friend Lord Ossorie (eldest
son to the Duke of Ormond), Sir Richd. Browne my father-in-law
being now Master of that Society; after which there was a greate
collation. 29. I carried my sonn to the Bishop of Chichester, that learned and
pious man, Dr. Peter Gunning *, to be instructed by him before he
receiv'd the holy sacrament, when he gave him most excellent advice,

* Dr. Peter Gunning, formerly Master of St. John's College, Cambridge, afterwards Bishop
of Ely. Burnet says of him that he was a man of great reading, a very honest, sincere man, but
of no sound judgment. Hist, of his own Times, I. 297.
t Well known by his valuable Exposition of the Creed.

1673-] 461
which I pray God may influence and remain with him as long as he
lives ; and O that I had ben so blessed and instructed when first I was
admitted to that sacred ordinance !
30. Easter Day : myself and sonn receiv'd the blessed communion,
it being his first time, and with that whole week's more extraordinary
preparation. I beseech God make him a sincere good Christian,
whilst I endeavour to instill into him ye feare and love of God, and
discharge the duty of a father.
At the sermon coram Rege, preached by Dr. Sparrow, Bp. of Exceter,
to a most crowded auditorie, I staied to see whether according to
costome the Duke of York receiv'd the communion with the King; but
he did not, to the amazement of every body. This being the second
yeare he had forborn and put it off, and within a day of the Parliament
sitting, who had lately made so severe an Act against ye increase of
Poperie, gave exceeding griefe and scandal to the whole Nation, that
the heyre of it, and ye sonn of a Martyr for ye Protestant religion,
should apostatize. What the consequence of this will be, God onely
knows, and wise men dread.
1 1 April. I dined with the Plenipotentiaries designed for the Treaty
of Nimeguen.
17. I carried Lady Tuke to thank the Countesse of Arlington for
speaking to his Ma* in her behalfe, for being one of ye Queene Con
sort's women. She carried us up into her new dressing-roome at
Goring House, where was a bed, 2 glasses, silver jars and vases,
cabinets, and other so rich furniture as I had seldom seene ; to this
excesse of superfluity were we now ariv'd, and that not onely at Court,
but almost universally, even to wantonesse and profusion.
Dr. Compton, brother to the Earle of Northampton, preached on
1 Corinth: 11 — 16. shewing the Churches power in ordaining things
indifferent ; this worthy person's talent is not preaching, but he is like
to make a grave and serious good man *.

* Henry, sixth son of the second Earl of Northampton, educated at Oxford, was a cornet in
Lord Oxford's regiment of guards, took orders, and was successively Bishop of Oxford and
London, in which last See he died, 1713, aged 81.

462 [1673-
I saw her Ma{>s rich toylet in her dressing roome, being all of massie
gold, presented to her by the King, valued at 4000/.
26. Dr. Lamplugh preached at St. Martine's, the holy Sacrament
following which I partook of, upon obligation of the late Act of Par
liament, enjoyning every body in office, civil or militarie, under penalty
of 500/. to receive it within one moneth before two authentiq wit
nesses; being engrossed on parchment, to be afterwards produced in
the Court of Chancery, or some other Court of Record ; which I did
at the Chancery Barr, as being one of the Council of Plantations and
Trade; taking then also the Oath of Allegiance aud Supremacy,
signing the clause in the said Act against Transubstantiation.
25 May. My sonn was made a younger Brother of the Trinity
House. The new Master was Sr Jer. Smith, one of the Commissrs of
the Navy, a stout seaman who had interpos'd and saved the Duke from
perishing by a fire-ship in the late warr.
28. I carried one Withers, an ingenious shipwright, to the King,
tos hew him some new method of building.
29. I saw the Italian Comedie at the Court this afternoone.
10 June. Came to visite and dine wh me, my Lord Vis* Cornbury
and his Lady ; Lady Frances Hyde, sister to the Dutchesse of York ;
and Mrs. Dorothy Howard, Mayd of Honour. We went after dinner
to see the formal and formidable camp on Blackheath, raised to invade
Holland, or, as others suspected, for another designe. Thence to the
Italian Glass-house at Greenewich, where glasse was blown of finer
mettal than that of Murano at Venice.
13. Came to visit us, with other ladies of rank, Mrs. Sedley *,
daughter to Sir Charles', who was none of the most virtuous, but a witt.
19. Congratulated the new Lord Treass1-, Sr Tho. Osborne, a gen
tleman with whom I had ben intimately acquainted at Paris, and who
was every day at my father-in-law's house and table there, on which
account I was too confident of succeeding in his favour, as I had don
in his predecessor's ; but such a friend shall I never find, and I neg
lected my time, far from believing that my Lord Clifford would have

* The Duke of York's mistress, and afterwards created by him Countess of Dorchester.

1673-] 463
so rashly laied down his staffe as he did, to the amazement of all the
world, when it came to the test of his receiving the communion, which
I am confident he forbore more from some promise he had enter'd into
to gratifie the Duke, than for any prejudice to the Protestant religion,
tho' I found him wavering a pretty while.
23. To London, to accompanie our Council, who went in a body
to congratulate the new Lord Treasurer, no friend to it, because pro
moted by my L. Arlington, whom he hated.
26. Came visitors from Court to dine with me, and see the army
still remaining encamped on Black-heath.
6 July. This evening I went to the funerall of my deare and excel
lent friend, that good man and accomplish'd gentleman, Sr Rob1.
Murray *, Secretary of Scotland. He was buried by order of his Ma*
in Westminster Abbey.
25. I went to Tunbridge Wells to visite my Lord Clifford, late
Lord Treassr, who was there to divert his mind more than his body ;
it was believ'd that he had so engag'd himselfe to the Duke, that
rather than take the test, without wch he was not capable of holding
any office, he would resigne that greate and honourable station. This
I am confident griev'd him to ye heart, and at last broke it ; for tho'
he carried with him musiq and people to divert him, and when I came
to see him, lodged me in his own apartment, and would not let me
go from him, I found he was struggling in his mind, and being of a
rough and ambitious nature, he could not long brooke the necessitie he
had brought on himselfe, of submission to this conjuncture. Besides
he saw the Dutch warr, which was made much by his advise, as -well
as the shutting up of the Exchequer -f, very unprosperous. These
things his high spirit could not support. Having staied here 2 or 3
daies, I obtain'd leave of my Lord to returne.

* He was universally beloved and esteemed by men of all sides and sorts. The life and soul of
the Royal Society. He delighted in every occasion of doing good. He had a superiority of
genius and comprehension. Burnet, vol. I. p. 90.
f Burnet says the Earl of Shaftesbury was the chief man in this advice. There is a story,
though I do not recollect the author, that Shaftesbury formed the plan, that Clifford got at it
over a bottle of wine, and carried it to the King as his own.

464 [1673-
In my way 1 saw my Lord of Dorset's house at Knowle, near Seven-
oaks, a greate old-fashion'd house.
30. To Council, where the business of transporting wool w^s
brought before us.
31. I went to see the pictures of all the Judges and eminent men
of the long robe, newly painted by Mr. Wright, and set up in Guild
hall, costing the Citty 1000/. Most of them are very like the persons
they represent, tho' I never took Wright to be any considerable artist.
13 Aug. I rid to Durdans, where I din'd at my Lord Berkley's
of Berkeley Castle, my old and noble friend, it being his wedding
anniversarie, where I found the Dutchesse of Albemarle and much
companie, and return'd home that evening late.
15. Came to visit me my Lord Chancellor, the Earle of Shaftesbury.
18. My Lord Clifford being about this time return'd from Tun
bridge, and preparing for Devonshire, I went to take my leave of him
at Wallingford House ; he was packing up pictures, most of which
were of hunting wild beasts, and vast pieces of bull-baiting, beare-
baiting, &c. I found him in his study, and restored to him several
papers of state and others of importance, which he had furnished me
with, on engaging me to write the Historie of the Holland War, with
other private letters of his acknowledgments to my Lord Arlington,
who from a private gentleman of a very noble family, but inconsider
able fortune, had advanc'd him from almost nothing. The first thing
was his being in Parliament, then knighted, then made one of the
Commissioners of the sick and wounded, on which occasion we sate
long- together; then on the death of Hugh Pollard, he was made
Comptroller of the Household and Privy Counselor, yet still piy bro
ther CommIssr ; after the death of Lord Fitz-Harding, Treasurer of the
Household, he by letters to Lord Arlington, which that Lord shew'd
me, begg'd of his Lordship to obtaine it for him as the very height of
his ambition ; these were written with such submissions and profes
sions of his patronage, as I had never seen any more acknowledging.
The Earle of Southampton then dying, he was made one of the Com
missioners of the Treasury. His Majestie inclining to put it into one
hand, my Lord Clifford, under pretence of making all his interest for his

1673-] 465
patron my Ld Arlington, cutt the grasse under his feet, and procur'd
it for himself, assuring the King that Lord Arlington did not desire it.
Indeede my Lord Arlington protested to me that his confidence in
Lord Clifford made him so remisse, and his affection to him was so
particular, that he was absolutely minded to devolve it on Lord Clif
ford, all the world knowing how he himselfe affected ease and quiet,
now growing into yeares, yet little thinking of this go-by. This was
the onely greate ingratitude Lord Clifford shew'd, keeping my Lord
Arlington in ignorance, continually assuring him he was pursuing his
interest, which was the Duke's, into whose greate favour Lord Clif
ford was now gotten, but wch certainly cost him the losse of all, namely,
his going so irrevocably far in his interest. For the rest, my Lord
Clifford was a valiant uncorrupt gentleman, ambitious, not covetous ;
generous, passionate, a most constant sincere friend, to me in parti
cular, so as when he layd downe his office, I was at the end of all
my hopes and endeavours ; these were not for high matters, but to
obtain what his Ma* was really indebted to my father-in-law, which
was the utmost of my ambition, and which I had undoubtedly ob
tain'd if this friend had stood. Sir Tho. Osborn, who succeeded him,
tho' much more oblig'd to my father-in-law and his family, and my
long and old acquaintance, being of a more haughty and far lesse
obliging nature, I could hope for little ; a man of excellent natural
parts, but nothing of generous or grateful.
Taking leave of my Lord Clifford, he wrung me by the hand, and
looking earnestly on me, bid me God-b'ye, adding, " Mr. E. I shall
never see thee more ;" " No !" said I, " my Lord, what's the meaning
of this ? I hope I shall see you often, and as greate a person againe."
" No, Mr. E. do not expect k, I will never see this place, this Citty
or Court againe," or words of this sound. In this manner, not with
out almost mutual tears, I parted from him : nor was it long after, bat
the newes was that he was dead, and I have heard from some who I
believe knew, he made himself away, after an extraordinary melan
choly. This is not confidently affirm'd, but a servant who lived in the
house, and afterwards with Sir Rob1 Clayton, Lord Mayor, did, as
well as others, report it ; and when I hinted some such thing to Mr.
vol. i. 3 o

466 [1673.
Prideaux, one of his trustees, he was not willing to enter into that
discourse. It was reported with these particulars ; that causing his
servant to leave him unusually one morning, locking himselfe in, he
strangled himselfe with his cravatt upon the bed-tester ; his servant not
liking the manner of dismissing him, and looking thro' the key-hole
(as I remember), and seeing his master hanging, brake in before he
was quite dead, and taking him downe, vomiting a greate deale of
bloud, he was heard to utter these words, " Well, let men say what
they will, there is a God, a just God above," after which he spake no
more. This, if true, is dismal. Really he was the cheife occasion of
the Dutch warr, and of all that bloud wch was lost at Bergen in at-
taquing the Smyrna fleete, and that whole quarrell. This leads me to
call to mind what my Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury affirm'd, not to me
onely, but to all my brethren the Councel of forralne plantations, when
not long after this accident being mention' d as we were one day sitting
in Councel, his Lordship told us this remarkeable passage ; that being
one day discoursing with him when he was only Sir Tho. Clifford,
speaking of men's advancement to greate charges in the Nation,
" Well," says he, " my Lord, I shall be one of the greatest me,n in
England. Don't impute what I say either to fancy or vanity ; I am
certaine that I shall be a mighty man, but it will not last long ; I shall
not hold it, but dye a bloudy death." " What," says my Lord, " your
horoscope tells you so ?" " No matter for that, it will be as I* tell
you." " Well," says my Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury, " if I were of
that opinion, I either would not be a greate man, but decline prefer
ment, or prevent my danger." This my Lord affirmed in my hearing
before severall gentlemen and noblemen sitting in Council at White
hall. And I the rather am confident of it, remembering what Sir Edw.
Walker (Garter King at Armes) had likewise affirm'd to me a long
time before, even when he was first made a Lord; that carrying his
pedigree to Lord Clifford on his being created a Peer, and finding him
busy, he bid him go into his study and divert himself there till he was
at leisure to discourse with him about some things relating to his fa
mily ; there lay, said Sir Edward, on his table, his horoscope and nati
vity calculated, with some writing under it, where he read that he

1673-] 467
should be advanc'd to the highest degree in the State that could be con-
ferr'd upon him, but that he should not long enjoy it, but should die,
or expressions to that sense : and I think (but cannot confidently say)
a bloudy death. This Sir Edwd affirm'd both to me and Sir Rich.
Browne, nor could I forbeare to note this extraordinary passage in these
memoires. 14 Sept. Dr. Creighton, son to the late eloquent Bishop of Bath
and Wells, preached to the Household on 57 Isaiah 8.
15. I procured 4000/. of the Lords of tbe Treasury, and rectified
divers matters about the sick and wounded.
16. To Council, about choosing a new Secretary.
17- I went with some friends to visit Mr. Bernard Grenville at Abs
Court In Surrey; an old house in a pretty parke*.
23. I went to see Paradise, a roome in Hatton Garden furnished
with the representations of all sorts of animals handsomely painted on
boards or cloth, and so cut out and made to stand, move, fly, crawl,
roare, and make their severall cries. The man who shewed it made
us laugh heartily at his formal poetrie.
15 Oct. To Council, and swore in Mr. Locke, secretary, Dr.
Worsley being dead.
27- To Council, about sending succours to recover New York ; and
then we read the Commission and Instructions to Sir Jonathan Atkins,
the new Governor of Barbados.
5 Nov. This night the youths of the Citty burnt the Pope in effi
gie, after they had made procession with it in greate triumph, they
being displeas'd at the Duke for altering his religion and marrying an
Italian lady-f-.
On St. Andrew's Day I first saw the new Dutchesse of York, and
the Dutchesse of Modena her mother.
1 Dec. To Gressham College, whither the Citty had invited the
Royal Society by many of their cheife Aldermen and Magistrates, who
gave us a collation, to welcome us to our first place of.assembly, from
* At Walton on Thames.
f The Princess Mary Beatrice D'Este, daughter of the Duke of Modena.

468 [1673.
whence we had ben driven to give place to the Citty, on their making
it their Exchange, on the dreadfull conflagration, till their new Ex
change was finish'd, wch it now was. The Society having till now ben
entertain'd and met at Arundel House.
2. I dined with some friends, and visited the sick : thence to an
almes-house where was prayers and reliefe, some very ill and miserable.
It was one of the best daies I ever spent in my life.
3. There was at dinner my Lord Lockart, design'd Ambassador for
France, a gallant and a sober person.
9. I saw againe the Italian Dutchesse and her brother the Prince
Reynaldo.
r 20. I had some discourse with certaine strangers, not unlearned,
who had ben born not far from Old Nineveh ; they assur'd me of the
fuines being still extant, and vast and wonderfull were the buildings,
Vaults, pillars, and magnificent fragments ; but they could say little of
the Toure of Babel that satisfied me : but the description of the
ameenitie and fragrancy of the country for health and cherefullnesse
delighted me, so sensibly they spake of the excellent aire and climate
in respect of our cloudy and splenetic country.
24. Visited some prisoners at Ludgate, taking orders about the re
leasing of some.
-. 30. I gave Almighty God thanks for his infinite goodnesse to me
the yeare past, and begged his mercie and protection the yeare fol-
Ibwing': afterwards invited my ¦neighbours to spend the day with me.
4674, 5 Jan. I saw an Italian Opera in musiq, the first that had
'fefen infEngland of this kind.
*\ P*°t a0T by hIs Ma,ty to wrlte sometlllng against the Hollanders
about -the/duty of the Flag and Fisherie. Return'd with some papers.
) 25 March. iMined at Knightsbridge with the Bishops of Salisbury,
Ortestef, and Lincoln, my did friends.
29 May. His Majestie's birth-day and Restauration. Mr. Demal-
hoy, Roger L'Estrange, and severall of my friends, came to dine with
me on the happy occasion.
27 June. Mr. Dryden, ^he famous Poet and now Laureat, came to
give me a visite. It was the anniversarie of my marriage, and the first

1674.J 469
day I went into my new little cell and cabinet, wch I built below to
wards the South court, at the East end of the parlor.
9 July. Paid ^£.360 for purchase of Dr. Jacomb's son's share in
the mill and land at Deptford, which I bought of the Beechers.
22. I went to Windsor with my wife and sonn to see my daughter
Mary, who was there with my Lady Tuke, and to do my duty to his
Ma*. Next day to a greate entertainment at Sr Rob' Holmes's at
Cranburn Lodge in the Forest; there were his Ma*, the Queene,
Duke, Dutchesse, and all the Court. I return'd in the evening with Sr
Joseph Williamson,- now declar'd Secretary of State. He was sonn of
a poore clergyman somewhere In Cumberland, brought up at Queen's
Coll. Oxford, of which he came to be a fellow; then travell'd with
 and returning when the King was restor'd, was receiv'd as a
Cleark under Mr. Secretary Nicholas ; Sr Henry Bennett (now Lord
Arlington) succeeding, Williamson is transferr'd to him, who loving
his ease more than businesse (tho' sufficiently able had he applied him
selfe to It) remitted all to his man Williamson, and in a short time let
him so into the seacret of affaires, that (as his Lordship himselfe told
me) there was a kind of necessity to advance him ; and so by his sub
tlety, dexterity, and insinuation, he got now to be principal Secre
tary; absolutely Lord Arlington's creature, and ungratefull enough.
It has ben the fate of this obliging favorite to advance those who soone
forgot their original. Sir Joseph was a musitian, could play at Jeu de
Goblets, exceeding formal, a severe master to his servants, but so in
ward with my Lord Obrien, that after a few moneths of that gentle
man's death, he married his widow *, who, being sister and heire of
the Duke of Richmond, brought him a noble fortune. 'Twas thought
they liv'd not so kindly after marriage as they did before. She was
much censur'd for marrying so meanly, being herselfe allied to the
Royal family.
* Lady Catherine Stuart, sister and heir to Charles Stuart Duke of Richmond and Lenox, the
husband of that admired beauty Mrs. Frances Stuart, with whom Charles the Second was so deeply
in love, that he never forgave the Duke for marrying her, which, it is thought, he had formed some
intention of doing himself. He took the first opportunity of sending him into an honourable exile,
as Ambassador to Denmark, where he shortly after died, leaving no issue by the Duchess.

470 [1674.
6 Aug. I went to Groombridge to see my old friend Mr. Packer,
the house built within a moate, in a woody vally. The old house had
ben the place of confinement of the Duke of Orleans, taken by one
Waller (whose house it then was) at the Battle of Agincourt, now de-
molish'd, and a new one built in its place, tho' a far better situation
had ben on the South of the wood, on a graceful ascent. At some small
distance is a large chapell, not long since built by Mr. Packer's father,
on a vow he made to do it on the return of King Charles I. out Of
Spaine, 1625, and dedicated to St. Charles, but what saint there was
then of that name I am to seeke, for, being a Protestant, I conceive it
was not Borromeo.
I went to see my farme at Ripe neere Lewes.
19. His Ma* told me how exceedingly the Dutch were displeas'd at
my treatise of the " Historie of Commerce"*; that the Holland Ambassr
had complain'd to him of what I had touch'd of the Flags and Fishery,
&c. and desired the booke might be call'd in ; whilst on the other side
he assur'd me he was exceedingly pleas'd with what I had done, and
gave me many thanks. However, it being just upon conclusion of the
treaty of Breda (indeed it was design'd to have ben publish'd some
moneths before, and when we were at defiance), his Ma* told me he
must recall it formally, but gave order that what copies should bepub-
liqly seiz'd to pacifie the Ambassr, should immediately be restor'd to the
Printer, and that neither he nor the vendor should be molested. The
truth is, that which touch'd the Hollander was much lesse than what
the King himselfe furnish'd me with, and oblig'd me to publish, having
caus'd it to be read to him before it went to the presse ; but the error
' was, it should have ben publish'd before the peace was proclaim'd. The
noise of this book's suppression made it presently be bought up, and
turn'd much to the stationer's advantage. It was no other than the
Preface prepar'd to be prefix'd to my History of the whole Warr; which
I now pflrsued no further.

^ * Entitled, " Navigation and Commerce, their Original and Progress, &c. By I. Evelyn, Esq.
.S. R. S." 8vo, 1674. Dedicated to the King. This was, in fact, only the introduction to the
intended " History of the Dutch War."

1674.] 471
21. In one of the meadows at the foote of the long Terrace below
the Castle [Windsor], works were thrown up to shew the King a re
presentation of the Citty of Maestricht, newly taken by the French.
Bastions, bulwarks, ramparts, palisadoes, graffs, horn works, counter
scarps, &c. were constructed. It was attack'd by ye Duke of Mon
mouth (newly come from that real siege) and ye Duke of York, with
a little army, to shew their skill in tactics. On Saturday night they
made their approches, open'd trenches, rais'd batteries, tooke the coun
terscarp and ravelin after a stout defence ; greate gunns fir'd on both
sides, granados shot, mines sprung, parties sent out, attempts of rais
ing, the siege, prisoners taken, parleys, and in short all the circumstances
of a formal siege to appearance, and, what is most strange, all without
disorder or 111 accident, to the greate satisfaction of a thousand specta
tors. Being night, it made a formidable shew. The siege being over,
I went with Mr. Pepys back to London, where we ariv'd about 3 in
the morning;.
15 Sept. To Council, about fetching away the English left at Suri
nam, &c. since our reconciliation with Holland.
21. I went to see the greate losse that Lord Arlington had sustain'd
by fire at Goring house, this night consum'd to ye ground, with exceed
ing losse of hangings, plate, rare pictures, and cabinets ; hardly any
thing was sav'd of the best and most princely furniture that any
subject had in England. My lord and lady were both absent at the
Bathe. 6 Oct. The Lord Chief Baron Turner, and Serjeant Wild, Recor
der of London, came to visite me.
20. At Lord Berkeley's I discours'd with Sir Thomas Modiford,
late Gov7 of Jamaica, and with Col. Morgan, who undertooke that
gallant exploit from Nombre de Dios to Panama, on the Continent of
America; he told me 10,000 men would easily conquer all the Spanish
Indies, they were so secure. They tooke greate booty, and much
greater had ben taken, had they not been betraied and so discover'd
before their approch, by wch the Spaniards had time to carry their vast
treasure on board ships that put off to sea in sight of our men, who had
no boates to follow. .They set fire to Panama, and ravaged the country

472 [1674-
60 miles about. The Spaniards were so supine and unexercis'd, that
they were afraid to fire a greate gun.
31. My birth-day, 54th yeare of my life. Blessed be God. It was
also preparation-day for the holy Sacrament, in which I participated the
next day, imploring God's protection for the yeare following, and con
firming my resolutions of a more holy life, even upon the Holy Booke.
The Lord assist and be gracious unto me. Amen.
15 Nov. The Anniversarie of my baptisme : I first heard that famous
and excellent preacher Dr. Burnet (author of the History of ye Refor
mation) on 3 Coloss. 10, with such a flow of eloquence and fullness
of matter, as shew'd him to be a person of extraordinary parts.
The night being her Majesty's birth-day, the Court was exceeding
splendid in clothes and Jewells, to the height of excesse.
17- To Council, on the business of Surinam, where the Dutch had
detain'd some English in prison ever since the first war 1665.
19. I heard that stupendous violin, Sig1' Nicholao (with other rare
musitians), whom I never heard mortal man exceed on that instrument.
He had a stroak so sweete, and made it speake like ye voice of a man,
and, when he pleas'd, like a consort of severall instruments. He did
wonders upon a note, and was an excellent composer. Here was als<@
that rare lutenist Dr Wallgrave ; but nothing approch'd the violin in
Nicholao's hand. He plaied such ravishing things as astonish'd us all.
2 Dec. At Mr. Slingsby's, Master of the Mint, my worthy friend,
a greate lover of musiq. Heard Sig' Francisco on the harpsichord,
esteem'd one of the most excellent masters in Europe on that instru
ment; then came Nicholao with his violin, and struck all mute but
.Mrs. Knight, who sung incomparably, and doubtlesse has the greatest
reach of any English woman ; she had lately ben roaming in Italy, and
was much improv'd in that quality.
15. Saw a comedie* at night at Court, acted by the ladies onely,
amongst them Lady Mary and Ann, his Royal Highnesses two daugh-

* This was the Masque of " Calisto, or the Chaste Nymph," by John Crowne. The performers
in the piece were, the two daughters of the Duke of York, Lady Henrietta Wentworth (afterwards
mistress to the Duke of Monmouth), Countess of Sussex, Lady Mary Mordaunt, Mrs. Blagg, who
had been Maid of Honour to the Queen, and Mrs. Jennings, then Maid of Honour to the Duchess

1675-] 473
ters, and my dear friend Mrs. Blagg, who having the principal part,
perform'd it to admiration. They were all cover'd with Jewells.
22. Was at the repetition of the Pastoral, on which occasion Mrs.
Blagg had about her neere ,§£.20,000 worth of Jewells, of which she
lost one worth about ag.80, borrow'd of ye Countess of Suffolk. The
press was so greate, that 'tis a wonder she lost no more. The Duke
made it good.
1675. 20 Jan. Went to see Mr. Streeter, that excellent painter
of perspective and Iandskip, to comfort and encourage him to be cut
for the stone, with which that honest' man was exceedingly afflicted*.
22 Mar. Supp'd at Sr William Petty's with the Bp. of Salisbury
and divers honorable persons. We had a noble entertainment in a
house gloriously furnish'd ; the master and mistress of it were extraor
dinary persons. Sr Wm was the sonn of a meane man some where in
Sussex, and sent from schole to Oxon, where he studied Philosophy,
but was most eminent in Mathematics and Mechanics : proceeded Dr
of Physick, and was grown famous, as for his learning so for his reco
vering a poor wench that had ben hanged for felony ; and her body
having ben begged (as the costome is) for the anatomie lecture, he bled
her, put her to bed to a warm woman, and with spirits and other
meanes restor'd her to lifef. The young scholars joyn'd and made her
a little portion, and married her to a man who had severall children by
her, she living 15 yeares after, as I have ben assur'd. Sr Wm came
of York, and who was afterwards the celebrated Duchess of Marlborough. The Duke of Mon
mouth, Lord Dumblaine, Lord Daincourt, and others, were the dancers; and Mrs. Davis, Mrs.
Knight, Mrs. Buller, and others, likewise acted and sung in the performance. Printed, London
1 675; in 4to.
* The King, it is said, who had a great regard for this artist, sent for a famous surgeon from
Paris, on purpose to perform the operation.
+ For a full account of this very remarkable event, see a pamphlet, entitled, " Newes from the
Dead, or a true and exact Narration of the miraculous Deliverance of Anne Greene, who being
executed at Oxford Dec. 14, 16,50, afterwards revived; and by the care of certain Physicians there
is now perfectly recovered. Oxford, the second Impression, with Additions, 4to, 1651." Added
to tbe Narrative are several Copies of Verses in Latin, English, and French, by Gentlemen of the
University, commemorative of the story ; amongst others, one by Joseph Williamson, afterwards
Secretary of State, another by Christopher Wren, the famous architect, then of Wadham College,
Walter Pope, Dr. Ralph Bathurst (the last under other names), and many more. This was reprinted,
but very negligently, from the first and worst edition, in Morgan's " Phoenix Britannicus," 4to.
VOL. I. 3 P

474 [1675-
from Oxon. to be tutor to a neighbour of mine; thence, when the
rebells were dividing their conquests in Ireland, he was employ'd by
them to measure and set out the land, which he did on an easy contract,
so much per acre. This he effected so exactly, that it not only furnish d
him with a greate sum of mony, but enabled him to purchase an estate
worth ^.4000 a yeare. He afterwards married the daughter of Sir
Hardresse Waller ; she was an extraordinary witt as well as beauty,
and a prudent woman.
Sr William, amongst other inventions, was author of the double-bot-
tom'd ship*, wcl1 tho' it perish'd', and he was censur'd for rashnesse,
being lost in the Bay of Biscay in a storme when, I think, 15 other
vessells miscarried. The vessell was flat-bottom'd, of exceeding use to
put into shallow ports, and ride over small depths of water. It con
sisted of 2 distinct keeles crampt together with huge timbers, &c. so as
that a violent streame ran betweene ; it bare a monstrous broad saile,
and he still persists that it is practicable and of exceeding use ; and he
has often told me he would adventure himselfe in such another, could
he procure sailors, and his Ma*s permission to make a second Experi
ment, .which name the King gave it at the launching.
The Map of Ireland made by Sir William Petty is believ'd to be the
most exact that ever yet was made of any country. He did promise to
publish it ; and I am told it has cost him neare ^.1000 to have it
engrav'd at Amsterdam. There is not a better Latine poet living when
he gives himselfe that diversion ; nor is his excellence less in Council
and prudent matters of state ; but he is so exceeding nice in sifting
and examining all possible contingencies, that he adventures at nothing
which is not demonstration. There were not in ye whole world his
equal for a superintendant of manufacture and improvement of trade, or
to govern a Plantation. If I were a Prince, I should make him my
second Counsellor at least. There is nothing difficult to him. He is
besides courageous, on which account I cannot but note a true storie of
him, that when Sr Aleyn Brodrick sent him a challenge upon a differ
ence 'twixt them in Ireland, Sr William, tho' exceedingly purblind,
accepted the challenge, and it being his part to propound the weapon,
* See pp. 362, 370.

1675.] 475
desir'd his antagonist to meete him with a hatchet or axe in a dark
cellar, which the other of course refused. Sir William was, with all
this, facetious and of easy conversation, friendly and courteous, and had
such a faculty of imitating others, that he would take a text and preach,
now like a grave orthodox divine, then falling into the Presbyterian
way, then to the phanatical, the quaker, the monk and frier, the
Popish priest, with such admirable action, and alteration of voice and
tone, as it was not possible to abstain from wonder, and one would
sweare to heare severall persons, or forbear to think he was not in good
earnest an enthusiast and almost beside himselfe ; then he would fall
out of it into a serious discourse ; but it was very rarely he would be
prevail'd on to oblige the company with this faculty, and that only
amongst most intimate friends. My Lord Duke of Ormond once
obtain'd it of him, and was almost ravish'd with ^admiration ; but by
and by he fell upon a serious reprimand of the faults and miscarriages
of some Princes and Governors, which tho' he nam'd none, did so
sensibly touch the Duke, who was then Lieutenant of Ireland, that he
began to be very uneasy, and wish'd the spirit lay'd which he had
rais'd, for he was neither able to endure such truthes, nor could he but
be delighted. At last he mealted his discourse to a ridiculous subject,
and came down from the joynt stoole on which he had stood ; but my
lord would not have him preach any more. He never could get favour
at Court, because he outwitted all the projectors that came neere him.
Having never known such another genius, I cannot but mention these
particulars amongst a multitude of others which I could produce. When
I who knew him in mean circumstances have ben in his splendid palace,
he would himselfe be in admiration how he ariv'd at it; nor was it
his value or inclination for splendid furniture and the curiosities of the
ao-e, but his elegant lady could endure nothing meane, or that was not
magnificent. He was very negligent himselfe, and rather so of his
person, and of a philosophic temper. " What a to-do is here !" would
he say, " I can lie in straw with as much satisfaction."
He is author of the ingenious deductions from the" bills of mortality,
which go under the name of Mr. Graunt ; also of that useful discourse
of the manufacture of wool, and several others in the register of the

476 [^75-
Royal Society. He was also author of that paraphrase on the 104tti
Psalfti in Latin verse, which goes about in MS. and is inimitable. In
a; word, there is nothing impenetrable to him.
26 March. Dr. BrideOake was elected Bishop of Chichester on the
translation of Dr. Gunning to Ely.
30. Dr. AUestree preached on 6 Romans 3. the necessitie of those'
who are baptized to die to sinn ; a very excellent discourse from an
excellent preacher.
25 April. Dr. Barrow *, that excellent, pious, and most learned
man, divine, mathematician, poet, traveller, and most humble person,
preach'd at White- hall to ye household, on 20 Luke 27, of love and
charitie to our neighbours.
29. I read my first discourse " Of Earth and Vegetation" before ye
Royall Society, as a^lecture in course after Sir Rob. Southwell had read
his the weeke before On Water. I was commanded by our President
and the suffrage of the Society to print it.
16 May. This day was my deare friend Mrs. Blagg married at the
Temple Church to my friend Mr. Sidney Godolphin, Groome of the
Bed-Chamber to his Majesty.
18. I went to visite one Mr. Bathurst, a Spanish merchant, my
neighbour. 31. I went with Lord Ossorie to Deptford, where we chose him
Master of the Trinity Company.
2 June. I was at a conference of the Lords and Commons in the
Painted Chamber, on a difference about imprisoning some of their
members : and on the 3d, at another conference, when the Lords ac
cused the Commons for their transcendent misbehaviour, breach of
privilege, Magna Charta, subversion of government, and other high,
provoking, and diminishing expressions, shewing what duties and
subjection they owed to the Lords in Parliament by record of Hen. IV.
This was likely to create a notable disturbance.
15. This afternoone came Mons1 Queroilaille and his lady, parents
to the famous beauty and ***** favorite at Court, to see Sr R.
* Master of Trinity College, Cambridge ; succeeded Dr. John Pearson, made Bishop of Chester.

1675-] 477
Browne, with whom they were intimately acquainted in Bretagne, at
the time Sr Richard was sent fo Brest to supervise his Ma*8 sea affaires,
during the later part of the King's banishment. This gentleman's
house was not a mile from Brest ; S1" Richard made an acquaintance
there, and being used very civily, was obliged to returne it here, which
we did. He seem'd a souldierly person and a good fellow, as the Bre
tons generally are ; his lady had ben very handsome, and seem'd a
shrewd understanding woman. Conversing with him in our garden, I
found severall words of the Breton language the same with our Welch.
His daughter was now made Dutchess of Portsmouth and In the height
of favour, but he never made any use of it.
27- At Ely House, I went to the consecration of my worthy friend
the learned Dr. Barlow, Warden of Queenes Coll. Oxon, now made
Bishop of Lincoln. After it, succeeded a magnificent feast, where
were the D. of Ormond, E. of Lauderdail, the Lord Tress1", Lord
Keeper, &c.
8 July. I went with Mrs. Howard and her two daughters towards
Northampton Assizes, about a tryal at law, in which I was concerned
for them as a Trustee. We lay this night at Henly on the Thames at
our attorney Mr. Stephens's, who entertain'd us very handsomely. —
Next day, dining at Shotover at Sr Tim. Tyrill's, a sweete place, we
lay at Oxford, where it was the time of the Act. Mr. Rob1 Spencer,
unkle to the Earle of Sunderland, and my old acquaintance in France,
entertain'd us at his apartment in Christ Church, with exceeding ge
nerosity. — The 10th, the Vice-Chancellor Dr. Bathurst (who had for
merly taken particular care of my sonn), President of Trinity CoUedge,
invited me to dinner, and did me greate honour all the time of my stav.
The next day he invited me and all my company, tho' strangers to him,
to a very noble feast. I was at all the academic exercises. — Sonday, at
St. Maries, preach'd a Fellow of Brazen-nose, not a little magnifying
the dignity of Church-men. — The 11th, we heard the speeches, and
saw ye ceremonie of creating Doctors in Divinity, Law, and Physic.
I had early in the morning heard Dr. Morison, Botanic Professor,
reade on divers plants In the Physic Garden ; and saw that rare collec
tion of natural curiosities of Dr. Plot's, of Magdalen Hall, author of

478 [1675.
" The Natural History of Oxfordshire," all of them collected in that
Shire, and indeede extraordinary, that in one County there should be
found such varietie of plants, shells, stones, minerals, marcasites, fouls,
insects, models of works, chrystals, achates, and marbles. He was
now intending to visite Staffordshire, and as he had of Oxfordshire, to
give us the natural, topical, political, and mechanical history. Pitty
it is that more of this industrious man's genius were not employ'd so
to describe every County of England ; it would be one of the most
usefull and illustrious workes that was ever produc'd in any age or
nation. I visited also the Bodleian Library, and my old friend the learned
Obadiah Walker*, head of University Coll. which he had now almost
rebuilt or repair'd. We then proceeded to Northampton, where we
arived the next day.
In this journey went part of the way Mr. Ja. Graham (since Privy
Purse to the Duke), a young gentleman exceedingly in love with Mrs.
Dorothy Howard, oiie of the Mayds of Honour in our company +. I
could not but pitty them both, the mother not much favouring it.
This lady was not onely a greate beauty, but a most virtuous and ex
cellent creature, and worthy to have ben wife to the best of men. My
advice was required, and I spake to the advantage of the young gen
tleman, more out of pitty than that she deserv'd no better match, for
tho' he was a gentleman of a good family, yet there" was greate
inequality. 14. I went to see my Lord Sunderland's seat at Althorp, 4 miles
from the ragged towne of Northampton (since burned, and well re
built). 'Tis placed In "a pretty open bottome, very finely watred and
flanqued with .stately woods and groves in a parke, with a canall, but
the water is not running, which is a defect. The house a kind' of mo
dern building of freestone, within most nobly furnished. The apart
ments very commodious, a gallerie and noble hall, but the kitchen be
ing in the body of the house, and chapell too small, were defects
There is an old yet honorable gate-house standing awry, and out-

See p. ^35. ^ ne afterwards married her. See p. 479, note.

1675-] 479
housing meane, but design'd to be taken away. It was moated round
after the old manner, but it is now dry, and turfed with a beautifull
carpet. Above all are admirable and magnificent the severall ample
gardens furnish'd with the choicest fruite, and exquisitely kept. Greate
plenty of oranges and other curiosities. The parke full of foule, espe
cialy hemes, and from it a prospect to Holmby House, which being
demolished in the late civil warrs, shews like a Roman ruine, shaded
by the trees about it, a stately, solemn, and pjeasing view.
15. Our cause was pleaded in behalfe of the mother, Mrs. Howard*
and her daughters, before Baron Thurland, who had formerly ben
steward of Courts for me ; we carried our cause, as there was reason,
for here was an imprudent as well as disobedient sonn against his mo
ther, by instigation doubtlesse of his wife, one Mrs. Ogle (an ancient
maid), whom he had clandestinely married, and who brought him no
fortune, he being heire apparent of the Earle of Berkshire. We lay at
Brickhill in Bedfordshire, and came late next day to our journey's end.
This was a journey of adventures and knight errantry. One of the
lady's servants being as desperately in love with Mrs. Howard's woman
as Mr. Graham was with her daughter, and she riding on horseback
behind his rival, the amorous and jealous youth having a little drink in
his pate, had here killed ' himselfe had he not ben prevented ; for,
alighting from his horse, and drawing his sword, he endeavoured twice
or thrice to fall on it, but was interrupted by our coachman and a
stranger passing by. After this, running to his rival and snatching
his sword from his side (for we had beaten his owne out of his hand),
and on the suddaine pulling downe his mistresse, would have run both

* Mrs. Howard was widow of William fourth son of the first Earl of Berkshire, being the
daughter of Lord Dundass of the kingdom of Scotland. They had one son Craven Howard, and
two daughters, Dorothy, who married Col. James Grehme of Levens in Westmoreland ; and
Anne, who married Sir Gabriel Sylvius, Knt. Craven married two wives, the first of which was
Anne, daughter of Tho. Ogle of Pinchbeck, co. Line. Esq. ; then maid of honour to Queen
Catherine. Collins's Peerage, vol. I!, pp. 139, 140, edit. 1735.
These two daughters are the ladies here mentioned by Mr. Evelyn ; but he is not correct in
calling Craven heir apparent of the Earl of Berks, as besides the uncle then in possession of the
title, there was another uncle before him, who in fact inherited it, and did not die till many
years after.

480 [1675-
of them thro' ; we parted them, but not without some blood. This
miserable creature poyson'd himselfe for her not many daies after they
came to London.
19. The Lord Tressrs Chaplaine preached at Wallingford House.
9 Aug. Dr. Sprat, prebend of Westminster and Chaplain to the
Duke of Buckingham, preached on the 3rd Epistle of Jude, shewing
what the primitive faith was, how neere it and how excellent that of
the Church of England* also the danger of departing from it.
27- I visited the Bishop of Rochester at Bromely, and dined at Sr
Philip Warwick's at Frogpoole [Frognall].
2 Sept. I went to see Dulwich CoUedge, being the pious foundation
of one Allen, a famous Comedian in King James's time. The Chapell
is pretty, the rest of the Hospital very ill contriv'd ; it yet maintalnes
divers poore of both sexes. 'Tis in a melancholy part of Camerwell
parish. I came back by certaine medicinal Spa waters, at a place called
Sydnam Wells in Lewisham parish, much frequented in Summer.
10. I was casually shewed the Dutchesse of Portsmouth's splendid
appartment at White-hall, luxuriously furnished, and with ten times
the richnesse and glory beyond the Queenes; such massy pieces of
plate, whole tables, & stands, of incredible value.
29. I saw the Italian Scaramucchio act before ye King at White
hall, people giving money to come in, which was very scandalous, and
never so before at Court diversions. Having seene him act before In
Italy, many yeares past, I was not averse from seeing the" most excel
lent of that kind of folly.
14 Oct. Din'd at Kensington with my old acquaintance Mr. Hen
shaw, newly return'd from Denmark, where he had ben left resident
after the death of the Duke of Richmond, who died there Ambassador.
15. I got an extreme cold, such as was afterwards so epidemical, as
not only to afflict us in this island, but was rife over all Europe, like a
plague. It was after an exceeding dry summer and autumn.
I settled affaires, my sonn being to go into France with my Lord
Berkeley, design'd Ambass'" extraordinary for France and Plenipoten
tiary for the general treaty of peace at Nimeguen.

1675-] 481
24. Din'd at Lord Chamberlain's with the Holland Ambass1 L.
Duras, a valiant gent" whom his Ma* made an English Baron, of a
cadet, and gave him his seate of Holmby in Northamptonshire * [since
Earle of Feversham].
27- Lord Berkeley coming into Council, fell downe in the gallerie
at White-hall in a fit of apoplexie, and being carried into my Lord
Chamberlaines lodgings, several] famous doctors were employed all that
night, and with much ado he was at last recover'd to some sense, by
applying hot fire-pans and spirit of amber to his head, but nothing was
found so effectual as cupping him on the shoulders. It was an almost
miraculous restauration. The next day he was carried to Berkeley
House. This stopp'd his journey for the present, and caused my stay
in towne. He had put all his affaires and his whole estate in England
into my hands during his intended absence, which tho' I was very unfit
to undertake, in reguard of many businesses which then took me up,
yet upon the greate importunity of my lady and Mr. Godolphin (to
whom I could refuse nothing) I did take it on me. It seemes when he
was Deputy in Ireland, not long before, he had ben much wronged by
one he left in trust with his affaires, and therefore wished for some
unmercenary friend who would take that trouble on him ; this was to
receive his rents, look after his houses and tenants, solicite supplies
from the Lord Treassr, and correspond weekly with him, more than
enough to employ any drudge in England ; but what will not friend
ship and love make one do ?
31. Din'd at my Lord Chamberlain's with my sonn. There were
the learned Isaac Vossius and Spanhemius, son of the famous man of
Heidelburg, nor was this gentleman less learned, being a generall
scholar. Amongst other pieces he was author of an excellent treatise
on Medails.
10 Nov. Being ye day appointed for my Lord Ambass1 to set out,
I met them with my coach at New Crosse. There were with him my
Lady his wife and my deare friend Mrs. Godolphin, who out of an
extraordinary friendship would needes accompany my lady to Paris, and

* See Bridges's Northamptonshire, vol. I. p. 526.
VOL. I. 3 Q

482 [1675-,
stay with her sometime, which was the chiefe inducement for permitting
my sonn to travel, but I knew him safe under her inspection, and in
reguard my Lord himselfe had promis'd to take him into his special
favour, he having intrusted all he had to my care.
Thus we set out, 3 coaches (besides mine), 3 waggons, and about
forty horse. It being late, and my lord as yet but valetudinarie, we got
but to Dartford the first day ; the next to Sittingbourne.
At Rochester, the major, Mr. Cony, then an officer of mine for the
sick and wounded of that place, gave the ladies a handsome refresh
ment as we came by his house.
12. We came to Canterbury, and next morning to Dover.
There was in my Lady Ambassadresses company my Lady Hamilton,
a sprightly young lady, much in the good graces of the family, wife of
that valiant and worthy gentleman Geo. Hamilton, not long after
slaine in the warrs. She had ben a maid of honour to the Dutchesse,
and now turn'd Papist.
14. Being Sonday, my Lord having before deliver'd to me his
letter of attorney, keyes, seale, and his will, we tooke solemn leave
of one another upon the beach, the coaches carrying them into the sea
to the boats, which deliver'd them to Capt. Gunman's yacht the Mary.
Being under saile, the castle gave them 17 gunns, which Capt. Gunman
answered with 11. Hence I went to Church, to beg a blessing on
their voyage.
2 Dec. Being returned home, I visited Lady Mordaunt at Parsons
Greene, my Lord her sonn being sick. This pious woman deliver'd to
me ^100. to bestow as I thought fit for ye release of poore prisoners
and other charitable uses.
21. Visited her Ladyship againe, where I found the Bp. of Win
chester, whom I had long known in France : he invited me to his
house at Chelsey.
23 Dec. Lady Sunderland gave me ten guineas to bestow in charities.
1676, 20 Feb. Dr. Gunning, Bishop of Ely, preached before the
King from 20 St. John 21, 22, 23. chiefly against an anonymous booke
called "Naked Truth," a famous and popular treatise against the corrup
tion in ye Cleargie, but not sound as to its quotations^ supposed to have

1676.] 483
ben the Bishop of Hereford's [Dr. Herbert Croft], and was answered
by Dr. Turner, it endeavoring to prove an equality of order of Bishop
and Presbyter.
27- Dr. Pritchard, Bp. of Glocester, preached at White-hall on
5 Isaiah 5. very allegorically according to his manner, yet very gravely
and wittily.
29 Feb. I din'd with Mr. Povey, one of the Masters of Requests, a
nice contriver of all elegances, and exceedingly formall. Supped with
Sir J. Williamson, where were of our Society Mr. Robert Boyle, Sir
Christ: Wren, Sir Wm. Petty, Dr. Holden, sub-dean *of his Majesty's
Chapell, Sir James Shaen, Dr. Whistler, and our Secretary Mr.
Oldenburg. 4 Mar. Sir Thos Linch was returned from his government of
Jamaica. 16. The Countesse of Sunderland and I went by water to Parsons
Greene to visite my Lady Mordaunt, and to consult with her about my
Lord's monument. We return'd by coach.
19. Dr. Lloyd, late Curate at Deptford, but now Bishop of Llan-
daff, preached before the King on 1 Cor. 15. 57- that tho' sin subjects
us to Death, yet thro' Christ we become his conquerors.
24. Dr. Brideoak *, Bp. of Chichester, preach'd ; a mean discourse
for a Bishop. I also heard Dr. Fleetwood, Bp. of Worcester, on 26
Matt. 38. of the sorrows of Christ, a deadly sorrow caused by our sinns ;
he was no great preacher.
23. To Twickenham Park, Lord Berkeley's country seate, to
examine how the bailiffs and servants ordered matters.
30. Dining with my La. Sunderland, I saw a fellow swallow a
knife, and divers great pebble stones, which would make a plaine
rattling one against another. The knife was in a sheath of home.
Dr. North, sonn to my Lord North, preach'd before the King on
53 Isaiah 57- a very young but learned and excellent person. Note.
This was the first time the Duke appeared no more in Chapell, to the
infinite griefe and threatned ruine of this poore Nation.
* Ralph Brideoake, Dean of Salisbury, succeeded Bp. Gunning in the See.

484 1*676-
2 April. I had now notice that my deare friend Mrs. Godolphin
was returning from Paris. On the 6th she arived to my greate joy,
whom I most heartily welcomed.
28 April. My wife entertain'd her Ma* at Deptford, for which the
Queene gave me thanks in the withdrawing-roome at White-hall.
The University of Oxford presented me with the " Marmora Oxoni-
ensia Arundelliana ;" the Bp. of Oxford writing to desire that I would
introduce Mr. Prideaux the Editor (a young man most learned in
Antiquities) to tfce Duke of Norfolk, to present another dedicated to
his Grace, which I did, and we din'd with the Duke at Arundel House,
and supp'd at the Bp. of Rochester's with Isaac Vossius.
7 May. I spoke to the Duke of York about my Lo. Berkeley's
going to Nimeguen. Thence to the Queene's Council at Somerset
House, about Mrs. Godolphin's lease of Spalding in Lincolnshire.
11. I dined with Mr. Charleton, and went to see Mr. Mountague's
new palace neere Bloomsbury, built by Mr. Hooke of our Society
after the French manner*.
13. Return'd home and found my son come from France, praised
be God.
22. Trinity Monday. A chaplain of my Lord Ossorie's preach'd,
after wch we took barge to Trinity House in London. Mr. Pepys
(Secretary of the Admiralty) succeeded my Lord as Master.
2 June. I went with my Lord Chamberlaine to see a garden at
Enfield towne; thence to Mr. Secretary Coventry's lodge in the Chace.
It is a very pretty place, the house commodious, the gardens hand
some, and our entertainment very free, there being none but my Lord
and myselfe. That which I most wondered at was, that in the compass
of 25 miles, yet within 14 of London, there is not an house, barne,
church, or building, besides three lodges. To this Lodge are three
greate ponds and some few inclosures, the rest a solitarie desert, yet
stor'd with not lesse than 3000 deere. These are pretty retreats
for gentlemen, especialy for those who are studious and lovers of
privacy. * Now the British Museum.

1676.J 485
We return'd in the evening by Hamsted, to see Lord Wotton's house
and garden *, built with vast expense by Mr. O'Neale, an Irish gent"
who married Lord Wotton's mother Lady Stanhope. The furniture
is very particular for Indian cabinets, porcelane, and other solid and
noble moveables. The gallery very fine, ye gardens very large, but ill
kept, yet woody and chargeable. The soil a cold weeping clay, not
answering the expence.
12 June. I went to Sr Tho. Bond's new and fine house by Peck-
ham ; it is on a flat, but has a fine garden and prospect thro' the mea
dows to London.
2 July. Dr. Castillion, Prebend of Canterbury, preached before the
King on 15 John 22. at White-hall.
19. Went to the funeral of S1 William Sanderson, husband to ye
mother of the Maids f, and author of two large but meane histories
of King James and K. Charles the First. He was buried at West
minster. 1 Aug. In the afternoone, after prayers at St. James's Chapell, was
christned a daughter of Dr. Leakes, the Duke's Chaplaine : Godmo
thers were Lady Mary, daughter of the Duke of York, and the Dut
chesse of Monmouth : Godfather, the Earle of Bathe.
15. Came to dine with me my Lord Halifax, Sir Thomas Meeres,
one of the Commissioners of the Admiralty, Sir John Clayton, Mr.
Slingsby, Mr. Henshaw, and Mr. Bridgeman.
25. Din'd with Sir John Banks at his house in Lincoln's Inn
Fields, on recommending Mr. Upman to be tutor to his sonn going into
France. This Sir John Banks was a merchant of small beginning, but
had amass'd 100,000/.
26. I din'd at yc Admiralty with Secretary Pepys, and supp'd at
the Lord Chamberlaines. Here was Capt. Baker, who had ben lately
on the attempt of the North West Passage. He reported prodigious
depth of ice, blew as a sapphire, and as transparent. The thick mists
were their cheife impediment and cause of their returne.

* Belsize House.
t The Queen's Maids of Honour; there is or lately was a place with that title. (1S16.)

486 [1676.
2 Sept. I paid 1700Z. to ye Marquiss de Sissac, which he had lent
to my Lord Berkeley, and which I heard the Marquiss lost at play in
a night or two.
The Dean of Chichester preach'd before the King on 24 Acts 16 ; and
Dr. Crighton preach'd yc second sermon before him on 90 Psalm 12.
of wisely numbering our daies and well employing our time.
3. Dined at Capt. Graham's, where I became acquainted with Dr.
Compton, brother to the Earle of Northampton, now Bishop of London,
and Mr. North, sonn to the Lord North, brother to the Ld Cheife
Justice and Clerke of the Closet, a most hopefull young man. The
Bishop had once ben a souldier, had also travel'd Italy, and became a
most sober, grave, and excellent prelate.
6. Supped at the Lord Chamberlaine's, where also supped the
famous beauty and errant lady the Dutchesse of Mazarine (all the
world knows her storie), the Duke of Monmouth, Countesse of Sussex
both natural children of the King by the Dutchess of Cleaveland *),
and ye Countesse of Derby, a virtuous lady, daughter to my best friend
the Earle of Ossorie.
10 Sept. Din'd with me Mr. Flamsted, the learned astrologer and
mathematician, whom his Ma* had establish'd in the new Observatorie
in Greenewich Park furnish'd with the choicest instruments. An
honest, sincere man.
12. To London, to take order about the building of an house, or
rather an appartment which had all the conveniences of an house, for
my deare friend Mr. Godolphin and lady, which I undertooke to con
trive and survey, and employ workmen 'till it should be quite finished ;
it being just over against his Majesties wood yard by the Thames side,
leading to Scotland yard.
19. To Lambeth, to that rare magazine of marble, to take order
for chimney-pieces, &c. for Mr. Godolphin's house. The owner of the
* Mr. Evelyn forgot himself here. The Duke of Monmouth's mother was, it is well known,
Mrs. Lucy Walters, who was sometimes called Mrs. Barlow (mentioned before). Lady Anne
Fitzroy, as she is called in the books of Peerage, was married to Lennard Dacre, Earl of Sussex,
by whom she left a daughter only, who succeeded on her father's death to the Barony of Dacre.
Mr. Evelyn probably meant to speak of either the Duke of Southampton, the Duke of Grafton, or
the Duke of Northumberland, all of whom Charles the Second had by the Duchess of Cleaveland.

1676.] 487
workes had built for himselfe a pretty dwelling-house ; this Dutchman
had contracted with the Genoese for all their marble. We also saw
the Duke of Buckingham's Glasse-worke, where they made huge vases
of mettal as cleare, ponderous and thick as chrystal ; also looking-
glasses far larger and better than any that come from Venice.
9 Oct. I went with Mrs. Godolphin and my wife to Black- wall, to
see some Indian curiosities ; the streetes being slippery I fell against
a piece of timber with such violence that I could not speake nor fetch
my breath for some space : being carried into an house and let bloud,
I was removed to the water side and so home, where after a daies rest
I recovered. This being one of my greatest deliverances, the Lord
Jesus make me ever mindfull and thankfull.
31. Being my birth-day, and 56 yeares old, I spent the morning
in devotion and imploring God's protection, wh solemn thanksgiving for
all his signal mercies to me, especially for that escape which concerned
me this moneth at Black-wall. Dined with Mrs. Godolphin, and re
turned home through a prodigious and dangerous mist.
9 Nov. Finish'd ye lease of Spalding for Mr. Godolphin.
16. My sonn and I dining at my Lord Chamberlaine's, he shew'd
us amongst others that incomparable piece of Raphael's, being a Mi
nister of State dictating to Guicciardini, the earnestness of whose face
looking up in expectation of what he was next to write is so to the
life, and so naturall, as I esteeme it one of the choicest pieces of that
admirable artist. There was a TVomans head of Leonardo da Vinci ;
a. Madona of old Palma, and two of Van-Dyke's, of which one was his
owne picture at length, when young, in a leaning posture ; the other
an Eunuch singing. Rare pieces indeede.
4 Dec. I saw the greate ball daunced by all the gallants and ladyes
at the Dutchesse of York's.
10 Dec. There fell so deep a snow as hinder'd us from church.
12. To London, in so great a snow as I remember not to have
seene the like.
17- More snow falling, I was not able to get to church.
1677- 8 Feb. I went to Roehampton with my lady Dutehesse of
Ormond. The garden and perspective is pretty, the prospect most
agreeable.

488 ' [1677-
15 May. Came the Earle of Peterborough to desire me to be a
Trustee for Lord Vise. Mordaunt and the Countesse, for ye sale of
certaine lands set out by Act of Parliament to pay debts.
12. I went to London to give the Lo. Ambr Berkeley (now re
turn'd from the Treaty at Nimeguen) an account of the greate trust
repos'd in me during his absence, I having receiv'd and remitted to
him no lesse than 20,000/. to my no small trouble and losse of time,
that during his absence and when the Lord Treasurer was no greate
friend [of his] I yet procur'd him greate sums, very often soliciting his
Maty in his behalfe ; looking after the rest of his estate and concernes
intirely, without once accepting any kind of acknowledgment, purely
upon the request of my dear friend Mr. Godolphin. I return'd with
abundance of thanks and professions from my Lo. Berkeley and my
Lady. 29. This business being now at an end and myself deliver'd from
that intolerable servitude and correspondence, I had leisure to be some
what more at home and to myselfe.
3 July. I sealed the deedes of sale of the Mannor of Blechinglee
to Sir Rob' Clayton, for payment of Lo. Peterborough's debts, accord
ing to the trust of the Act of Parliament.
16. I went to Wotton. — 22. Mr. Evans, curate of Abinger, preach'd
an excellent sermon on 5 Matthew 12. In yc afternoone Mr. Higham
at Wotton catechised.
26. I din'd at Mr. Duncomb's at Sheere, whose house stands in-
viron'd with very sweete and quick streams.
29. Mr. Bohun, my sonn's late tutor, preached at Abinger on
4 Phil. 8. very elegantly and practically.
5 Aug. I went to visite my Lord Brounker, now taking the waters
at Dulwich.
9. Din'd at the Earl of Peterborow's the day after ye marriage of
my Lord of Arundel to Lady Mary Mordaunt daughter to the Earl of
Peterborough. 28. To visite my Lord Chamberlaine in Suffolk ; he sent his coach
and 6 to meete and bring me from St. Edmonds Bury to Euston.
29. We hunted in the park and kill'd a very fat buck. — 31. I went
a hawking.

1677-1 489
7 Sept. There din'd this day at my Lord's one Sr John Gaudy, a
very handsome person, but quite dumb, yet very intelligent by signes,
and a very fine painter; he was so civil and well bred as it was not
possible to discerne any imperfection by him. His lady and children
were also there, and he was at church in the morning with us.
4. I went to visite my Lord Crofts, now dying at St. Edmonds Bury,
and tooke this opportunity to see this ancient Towne, and the remaines
of that famous Monasterie and Abby. There is little standing intire
save the gate-house ; it has ben a vast and magnificent Gotic structure,
and of greate extent. The gates are wood, but quite plated over with
iron. There are also two stately churches, one especialy.
5. I went to Thetford, the Burrough Towne, where stand the ruines
of a religious house ; there is a round mountaine artlficialy raised, either
for some castle or monument, which makes a pretty landscape. As we
went and return'd, a tumbler shew'd his extraordinary addresse in the
Warren. I also saw the Decoy, much pleas'd with the stratagem.
9. A stranger preach'd at Euston church, and fell into a handsome
panegyric on my Lord's new building the church, which indeede for its
elegance and cherefullness is one of the prettiest country churches in
England. My Lord told me his heart smote him that after he had
bestow'd so much on his magnificent palace there, he should see God's
House in the mine it lay in. He has also rebuilt ye parsonage-house,
all of stone, very neate and ample.
10. To divert me, my Lord would needs carry me to see Ipswich,
when we din'd with one Mr. Mann by the way, who was Recorder of
the towne. There were in our company my Lord Huntingtoure sonn to
the Dutchesse of Lauderdale, Sr Ed. Bacon a learned gentleman of
the family of ye greate Chancr Verulam, and Sir John Felton, with
some other Knights and Gent". After dinner came the Bailiff and
Magistrates in their formalities with their maces to compliment my
Lord and invite him to the Towne-house, where they presented us a
collation of dried sweet meates and wine, the bells ringing, &c. Then we
went to see the towne, and first, the Lord Vise1 Hereford's house, which
stands in a park neere the towne, like that at Bruxelles in Flanders ;
the house not greate yet pretty, especialy ye hall. The stewes for fish
vol. I. 3 it

490 [1677-
succeed one another and feed one the other, all paved at bottome. There
is a good picture of the Bl. Virgin in one of ye parlours, seeming to be
of Holbein or some good master. Then we saw the Haven, 7 miles from
Harwich. The tide runs out every day, but the bedding being soft mudd
it is safe for shipping and a station. The trade of Ipswich is for the most
part Newcastle coales, with which they supply London, but it was for
merly a cloathing towne. There is not any beggar asks alms in the
whole place, a thing very extraordinary, so order'd by ye prudence of
the Magistrates. It has In it 14 or 15 beautiful churches : in a word
'tis for building, cleanesse, and good order, one of the best townes in
England. Cardinal Wolsey was a butcher's sonn of this towne, but
there is little of that magnificent Prelate's foundation here, besides a
schole and I think a library, which I did not see. His intentions were
to build some greate thing. We return'd late to Euston, having tra-
vell'd above 50 miles this day.
Since first I was at this place, I found things exceedingly improv'd.
It is seated in a bottome between two gracefull swellings, the maine
building being now in ye figure of a Greek n with foure pavilions, twO
at each corner, and a breake in the front, rail'd and balustred at the top,
where I caus'd huge jarrs to be plac'd full of earth to keepe them steady
upon their pedestalls between the statues, which make as good a shew
as if they were of stone, and tho' the building be of brick, and but two
stories besides cellars, and garretts cover'd with blue slate, yet there is
roome enough for a full court, the offices and out-houses being so> ample
and well dlspos'd. The King's apartment is painted afresca, and mag
nificently furnish'd. There are many excellent pictures of the greate
masters. The gallery is a pleasant, noble roome : in the breake, or
middle, is a billiard -table, but the wainscot being of firr, and painted,
does not please me so well as Spanish oake without paint. The
chapel is pretty, the porch descending to the gardens. The orange
garden is very fine, and leads into the green-house, at ye end of which
is a hall to eate in, and the conservatory some hundred feete long,
adorn'd with mapps, as the other side is with the heads of Caesars ill
cut in alabaster ; over head are several apartments for my Lord, Lady,

1677-] 491
and Dutchesse *, with kitchens and other offices below in a lesser form,
with lodgings for servants, all distinct, for them to retire to when
they please and would be in private and have no communication with
the palace, which he tells me he will wholly resign to his sonn-in-law
and daughter, that charming young creature. The canall running un
der my lady's dressing-room chamber window is full of carps and foule
which come and are fed there. The cascade at the end of ye canall
turnes a corne-mill, which provides the family, and raises water for
ye fountaines and offices. To passe this canal into the opposite mea
dows, Sr Sam. Moreland has invented a screw-bridge, wch being turn'd
with a key lands you 50 foote distant at the entrance of an ascending
walke of trees, a mile in length, as tis also on the front into the park,
of 4 rows of ash-trees, and reaches to the park-pale, which is 9 miles
in compass, and the best for riding and meeting the game that I ever
saw. There were now of red and fallow deere almost a thousand, with
good covert, but the soile barren and flying sand, in which nothing will
grow kindly. The tufts of firr and much of the other wood were planted
by my direction some yeares before. This seate is admirably plac'd for
field sports, hawking, hunting, or racing. The mutton is small, but
sweete. The stables hold 30 horses and 4 coaches. The out-offices make
two large quadrangles, so as servants never liv'd with more ease and
convenience, never master more civil. Strangers are attended and ac
commodated as at their home, in pretty apartments furnish'd with all
manner of conveniencies and privacy. There is a library full of ex
cellent books. There are bathing-roomes, elaboratorie, dispensatorie,
a decoy, and places to keepe and fat fowl in. He had now in his new
church (neere ye garden) built a dormitory or vault with several reposi
tories in which to burie his family. In the expence of this pious struc
ture, the church is most laudable, most of the Houses of God in this
country resembling rather stables and thatch'd cottages than temples in
which to serve the Most High. He has built a lodge in the park for the
keeper, which is a neate dwelling and might become any gentleman.
* His daughter, wife of the Duke of Grafton.

492 [1677-
The same has he don for the parson, little deserving it, for murmuring
that my Lord put him some time out of his wretched hovel, whilst it
was building. He has also erected a faire inn at some distance from his
palace, with a bridge of stone over a river neere it, and repaired all the
tenants houses, so as there is nothing but neatenesse and accommodations
about his estate, which I yet think is not above ^.1500 a yeare. I be
lieve he had now in his family 100 domestic servants. His lady (being
one of the Bredrodes daughters, grandchild to a natural sonn of Henry
Frederick Prince of Orange) is a good-natur'd and obliging woman.
They love fine things and to live easily, pompously, and hospitably, but
with so vast expence as plunges my Lord into debt exceedingly. My
Lord himselfe is given to no expensive vice but building, and to have all
things rich, polite, and princely. He never plays, but resides much,
having the Latin, French and Spanish tongues in perfection. He has
travell'd much, and is the best bred and courtly person his Ma* has
about him, so as the publiq Ministers more frequent him than any of
the rest of the Nobility. Whilst he was Secretary of State and Prime
Minister he had gotten vastly, but spent it as hastily, even before he had
establish'd a fund to maintalne his greatnesse ; and now beginning to
decline in favour (ye Duke being no great friend of his) he knows not
how to retrench. He was sonn of a Dr of Laws whom I have seene,
and being sent from Westminster Schole to Oxford with intention to be
a Divine, and parson of Harlington *, a village neere Brainford, when
Master of Arts, the Rebellion falling out, he follow'd the King's Army,
and receiving an honourable wound in the face \, grew into favour, and
was advanc'd from a meane fortune, at his Ma*s restauration, to be an
Earle and Kn* of the Garter, Lord Chamberlaine of the Household,
and first favourite for a long time, during which the King married his
natural sonn, ye Duke of Grafton, to his onely daughter and heiress,
as before mentioned, worthy for her beauty and virtue of the greatest
Prince in Christendom. My Lord is, besides this, a prudent and
* See in Lord Clarendon's Continuation of his Life, &c. a curious circumstance relating to Sir
Henry Bennett's taking his title, when first created a Baron, from this place.
t A deep cut across his nose, he was always obliged to wear a black patch upon it, and is so
represented in his portraits.

16*77-1 493
understanding person in businesse and speakes well. Unfortunate yet in
those he has advanc'd, most of them proving ungratefull. The many
obligations and civilities I have receiv'd from this noble gentleman
extracts from me this character, and I am sorry he is in no better
circumstances. Having now pass'd neere three weeks at Euston to my greate satis
faction, with much difficulty he suffer'd me to looke homeward, being
very earnest with me to stay longer, and to engage me, would himselfe
have carried and accompanied me to Lynn Regis, a towne of important
traffiq, about 20 miles beyond, which I had never seene, as also the
Travelling Sands about 10 miles wide of Euston, that have so damag'd
the country, rouling from place to place, and like the Sands in ye
Deserts of Lybia, quite overwhelm'd some gentlemen's whole estates, as
the relation extant in print and brought to our Society describes at large.
13 Sept. My Lord's coach convey'd me to Bury, and thence baiting
at Newmarket, stepping in at Audley End to see that house againe, I
slept at Bishops Stortford, and the next day home. I was accompanied
in my journey by Major Fairfax, of a younger house of the Lord Fair
fax, a souldier, a traveller, an excellent musitian, a good-natur'd well-
bred gentleman.
18. I preferred Mr. Philips (nephew of Milton) to the service ot
my Lord Chamberlaine, who wanted a scholar to reade to & entertaine
him sometimes.
12 Oct. With Sr Robert Clayton to Marden, an estate he had bought
lately of my kinsman Sr John Evelyn of Godstone in Surrey, which
from a despicable farme house Sr Robert had erected into a seate with
extraordinary expence. 'Tis in such a solitude among hills, as being not
above 16 miles from London, seems almost incredible, the ways up to
it so winding and intricate. The gardens are large, and well wall'd,
and the husbandry part made very convenient and perfectly understood.
The barnes, the stacks of corne, the stalls for cattle, pigeon-house, &c.
of most laudable example. Innumerable are the plantations of trees,
especialy wallnuts. The orangerie and gardens are very curious. In
the house are large and noble roomes. He and his lady (who is very
curious in distillery) entertain'd me three or foure days very freely. I

494 [1677-
earnestly suggested to him the repairing of an old desolate dilapidated
Church, standing on the hill above the house*, wch I left him In good
disposition to do, and endow it better ; there not being above foure or
five houses in the parish besides that of this prodigious rich Scrivener f.
This place is exceeding sharp in the winter, by reason of the serpenting
of the hills; and It wants running water; but the solitude much pleas'd
me. All the ground is so full of wild thyme, marjoram, and other
sweete plants, that it cannot be overstock'd with bees ; I think he had
neere 40 hives of that industrious insect.
14. I went to Church at Godstone, and to see old Sir John Eve
lyn's dormitory, joining to the church, pav'd with marble, where he
and his lady lie on a very stately monument at length ; he in armour,
of white marble %. The inscription is only an account of his particular
branch of the family on black marble.
15. Returned to London ; in the evening, I saw the Prince of Orange,
and supped with Lord Ossory.
23, Saw againe the Prince of Orange : his marriage with the
Lady Mary, eldest daughter to the Duke of York, by Mrs. Hyde, the
late Dutchesse, was now declared.
11 Nov. I was all this week composing matters betweene old Mrs.
Howard and Sr Gabriel Sylvius, upon his long and earnest addresses to
Mrs. Ann her second daughter §, mayd of honor to the Queene. My
* Woldingham. The Church consists of one room about 30 feet long and 21 wide, without any
tower, spire, or bell. It is considered as a Donative, not subject to the Bishop, service performed
once a month. No Churchwarden; two farm-houses, four cottages. By the Population Return
in 1811, the number of inhabitants was 58. That disposition which was thought to hare appeared
subsided ; the Church remains as it then was.
t In Loudon there was formerly a Company called Scriveners, now extinct. The last member
of it, named Ellis, died at the age of more than 90. Dr. Johnson speaks well of him in the present
reign. The business comprehended that of a Banker, and what is now called a Conveyancer; they
had money deposited with them for the purpose of making purchases, or lending on mortgage,
they preparing the Conveyances. In the time of K. Charles I. during the troubles and the inter
regnum, a gentleman of the name of Abbot in the City had a very great share of this business. Sir
Robert Clayton and a Mr. Morris were his clerks at the same time, and jointly succeeded to his
business, in which they had acquired a great estate. Mr. Morris died first, and having no chil
dren, left his property to his friend Sir Robert. The Editor lately saw a deed attested by Mr.
Abbot as Scrivener, and by Mr. Morris and Mr. Clayton as his servants.
X It is a very fine monument, in perfect preservation, (1816.) § See p. 479 note.

1677-] 495
friend Mrs. Godolphin (who exceedingly lov'd the young lady) was
most industrious in it, out of pitty to ye languishing knight; so as tho'
there were greate differences in their yeares, it was at last effected, and
they were married the 13th in Hen. 7th's Chapell by the Bishop of Ro
chester*, there being besides my wife and Mrs. Graham, her sister,
Mrs. Godolphin, and very few more. We din'd at the old lady's, and
supp'd at Mr. Graham's at St. James's.
15. The Queene's birth-day, a greate Ball at Court, where the
Prince of Orange and his new Princesse daunced.
19. They went away, and I saw embarqu'd my Lady Sylvius, who
went into Holland with her husband, made Hoffmaester to the Prince,
a considerable employment. We parted with greate sorrow, for the
greate respect and honour I bore her, a most pious and virtuous lady.
27- Din'd at the Lord Treasurer's with Prince Rupert, Vise1 Fal-
kenberg, Earle of Bathe, Lord O'Brien, Sir John Lowther, Sir Christ.
Wren, Dr. Grew, and other learned men.
30. Sr Joseph Williamson, Principal Secretary of State, was chosen
President of the Royal Society after my Lord Viscount Brounker had
possess'd the chaire now sixteen yeares successively, and therefore now
thought fit to change, that prescription might not prejudice.
4 Dec. Being the first day of his taking the chaire, he gave us a
magnificent supper.
20. Carried to my Lord Treasurer an account of the Earl of Bris
tol's Librarie at Wimbleton, which my Lord thought of purchasing,
till I acquainted him that it was a very broken collection, consisting
much in books of judicial astrologie, romances, and trifles -j-.
25. I gave my sonn an Office, with instructions how to govern his
youth ; I pray God give him the grace to make a right use of it.
1678. 23 Jan. Din'd with ye Duke of Norfolk, being the first
time I had seene him since the death of his elder brother, who died at
Padoa in Italy, where he had resided above 30 yeares. The Duke

* Dr. John Dolben, also Dean of Westminster, translated afterwards to York.
f A library of this description would at this day be deemed a very curious one, and an object
probably of much competition. Habent sua fata libelli !

496 [1678.
had now newly declar'd his marriage to his concubine, whom he pro
mise me he never would marry *. I went with him to see the Duke
of Buckingham, thence to my Lord Sunderland, now Secretary of
State, to shew him that rare piece of Vosterman's (son of old Voster-
man) which was a view or landscape of my Lord's palace, &c. at
Althorp in Northamptonshire.
8 Feb. Supping at my Lord Chamberlaine's, I had a long discourse
with the Conte de Castel Mellor, lately Prime Minister in Portugal,
who taking part with his master King Alphonso was banish'd by his
brother Don Pedro, now Regent, but had behaved himselfe so uncor-
ruptly in all his ministrie, that tho' he was acquitted and his estate re
stored, yet would they not suffer him to returne. He is a very intelli
gent and worthy gentleman.
18. My Lord Treasurer sent for me to accompany him to Wimble
don, which he had lately purchased of yc Earle of Bristol ; so breaking
fast with him privately In his chamber, I accompanied him with two
of his daughters, my Lord Conway and Sr Bernard Gascoyne, and
having surveyed his gardens and alterations, returned late at night.
22. Dr. Pierce preach'd at White-hall on 2 Thessal. 3. 6. against
our late Schismatics, In a rational discourse, but a little over-sharp and
not at all proper for the auditory there.
22 Mar. Dr. South preached coram Rege an incomparable dis
course on this text, " A wounded spirit who can beare !" Note : Now
was our communion table plac'd altar-wise ; the church steeple, clock,
and other reparations finish'd.
16 April. I shewed Dom. Emanuel de Lyra (Portugal Ambass') and
the Count de Castel Mellor the Repository of the R. Society and the
CoUedge of Physitians.
18. I went to see New Bedlam Hospital, magnificently built-f", and
most sweetely placed in More-fields, since the dreadful fire in London.
* It appears by the Books of Peerage that his Grace married to his second wife Mrs. Jane Bick-
erton, daughter of a Scotch gentleman, Robert Bickerton, Esq. who was Gentleman of the Wine
Cellar to King Charles II. There are engraved portraits both of this Duke and his Duchess. See
pp, 444, 498.
f Taken down, being greatly decayed, in 1814, and a new one erected on the Surrey side of
the Thames, in the road leading from St. George's Fields to Lambeth. On pulling it down, the

1678.} 497
28 June. I went to Windsor with my Lord Chamberlaine (the
Castle now repairing with exceeding cost) to see the rare worke of
Verrio, and incomparable carving of Gibbons.
29. Return'd with my Lord by Hounslow Heath, where we saw
the new-rais'd army encamp'd, design'd against France, in pretence
at least, but which gave umbrage to the Parliament. His Ma* and a
world of company were in the field, and the whole army in battalia, a
very glorious sight. Now were brought into service a new sort of Sol
diers call'd Granadiers, who were dextrous in flinging hand granados,
every one having a pouch full; they had furr'd caps with coped crownes
like Janizaries, which made them looke very fierce, and some had long
hoods hanging down behind, as we picture fools. Their clothing being
likewise pybald yellow and red.
8 July. Came to dine with me my Lord Longford, Treasurer of
Ireland, nephew to that learned gentleman my Lord Aungier, with
whom I was long since acquainted : also the Lady Stidolph and other
company. 19. The Earle of Ossory came to take his leave of me, going into
Holland to command the English forces.
20. I went to the Tower to try a mettal at the Assay-masters, wch
onely prov'd Sulphur ; then saw Monsr Rotiere, that excellent graver
belonging to the Mint, who emulates even the ancients, in both mettal
and stone ; he was now moulding an horse for ye King's statue, to be
cast in silver, of a yard high. I din'd with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the
Mint. 23. Went to see Mr. Elias Ashmole's library and curiosities at
Lambeth. He has divers MSS. but most of them astrological, to weh
study he is addicted, tho' I believe not learned, but very industrious,
as his History of the Order of the Garter proves. He shew'd me a
toade included in amber. The prospect from a turret is very fine, it
being so neere London, and yet not discovering any house about the

foundations were found to be very bad, as it had been built on part of the Towne-ditch, and on a
soil very unfit for the erection of so large a building. Patients were removed to the new building
in August 1815.
VOL. I. 3 s

498 1*67^
country. The famous John Tradescant bequeathed his Repository to
this gentleman, who has given them to the University of Oxford, and
erected a lecture on them, over the Laboratorie, in imitation of the R.
Society *.
Mr. Godolphin was made Master of the Robes to the King.
25. There was sent me 70/. from whom I knew not, to be by me
distributed among poore people ; I afterwards found it was from that
deere friend (Mrs. Godolphin) who had frequently given me large sums
to bestow oh charities.
16 Aug. I went to Lady Mordaunt, who put 100/. into my hands
to dispose of for pious uses, relief of prisoners, poore, &c. Many a
sum had she sent me on similar occasions ; a blessed creature she was,
and one that loved and feared God exemplarily.
23. Upon Sir Rob1 Reading's importunity I went to visite the Duke
of Norfolk at his new palace at Weybridgef, where he has laid out in
building neere ,§£.10,000, on a copyhold, and in a miserable, barren,
sandy place by the street side; never in my life had I seene such expense
to so small purpose. The roomes are wainscotted, and some of them
richly parquetted with cedar, yew, cypresse, &c. There are some good
pictures, especialy that Incomparable painting of Holbein's, where the
Duke of Norfolk, Charles Brandon, and Hen. VIII. are dauncing with
the three ladies, with most amourous countenances and sprightly motion
exquisitely expressed. 'Tis a thousand pities (as I told my Lord of
Arundel his son) that that jewel should be given away.
24. I went to see my Lord of St. Alban's house at Byflete, an old
larce building. Thence to the paper mills, where I found them making
* The donation took place in 1677, and a suitable building Was erected by Sir Christ. Wren,
bearing the name of the " Ashmolean Museum." This was the first public institution for the re
ception of Rarities in Art or Nature established in England; and, in the infancy of the study of Na
tural History in this country, possessed what was then considered as a valuable and superior col
lection. There are good portraits of Ashmole, and of the Tradescant family by Dobson, in the
Museum, from which engravings have been very inaccurately taken.
f This house wa9 the property of Mrs. Bickerton, whom the Duke married. After his death
she married Mr. Maxwell, and they, together with Lord George Howard (her eldest son by the
Duke) sold it to the Countess of Dorchester (mistress to James II.) Her daughter married David
Colyer Earl of Portmore, whose descendant is the present owner, but the house is uninhabited, and
in a most ruinous state (1816).

1678.] 499
a coarse white paper. They cull the raggs, which are linnen, for white
paper, woollen for brown ; then they stamp them in troughs to a papp
with pestles or hammers like ye powder-mills, then put it into a vessell
of water, in which they dip a frame closely wyred with wyre as small as
a haire and as close as a weaver's reede; on this they take up the papp,
the superfluous water draining thro' the wyre ; this they dextrously
turning, shake out like a pancake on a smooth board between 2 pieces of
flannell, then presse it between a greate presse, the flannell sucking out
ye moisture ; then taking it out, they ply and dry it on strings, as they
dry linnen in the laundry; then dip it in alum-water, lastly polish and
make it up in quires. They put some gum in the water in which they
macerate the raggs. The mark we find on the sheets is formed in the
wyre. 25. After evening prayer visited Mr. Sheldon (nephew to the late
Abp. of Canterbury) and his pretty melancholy garden ; I tooke notice
of the largest arbor thuyris I had ever seene. The place is finely
water'd, and there are many curiosities of India, shewn in the house*.
There was at Wey bridge the Dutchesse of Norfolk, Lord Tho.
Howard (a worthy and virtuous gentleman, with whom my sonn was
some time bred up in Arundel House) who was newly come from
Rome, where he had been some time ; also one of the Duke's daugh
ters by his first lady. My Lord leading me about the house made no
scruple of shewing me all the hiding-places for the Popish priests, and
where they said masse, for he was no bigotted Papist. He told me he
never trusted them with any seacret, and us'd Protestants only in all
businesses of importance.
I went this evening with my Lord Duke to Windsor, where was a
magnificent Court, it being the first time of his Ma*y removing thither
since it was repair'd.
27 Aug*. I tooke leave of ye Duke, and din'd at Mr. Hen.
Brouncker's, at ye Abby of Sheene, formerly a Monastery of Carthu
sians, there yet remaining one of their solitary cells with a crosse.
Within this ample inclosure are several pretty villas and fine gardens

* This seems to be near Weybridge, but where ?

500 [1678.
of the most excellent fruites, especialy Sir Wm. Temple's (lately Am
bassador into Holland), and the Lord Lisle's, sonn to ye Earle of Leices
ter, who has divers rare pictures, above all, that of Sir Brian Tuke's
by Holbein.
After dinner I walk'd to Ham, to see the house and garden of the
Duke of Lauderdale, which is indeede inferior to few of the best villas
in Italy itselfe; the house furnish'd like a greate' Prince's ; the parterres,
flower gardens, orangeries, groves, avenues, courts, statues, perspectives,
fountaines, aviaries, and all this at the banks of the sweetest river in
the world, must needes be admirable.
Hence I went to my worthy friend Sr Henry Capel [at Kew] brother
to the Earle of Essex ; it is an old timber house, but his garden has
the choicest fruit of any plantation in England, as he is the most indus
trious and understanding in it.
29. I was call'd to London to wait upon the D. of Norfolk, who
having at my sole request bestow'd the Arundelian Library on the
Royal Society, sent to me to take charge of the bookes and remove
them, onely stipulating that I would suffer the Heraulds cheif officer,
Sir Wm Dugdale, to have such of them as concern'd Herauldry and
the Marshall's office, bookes of Armorie and Genealogies, the Duke
being Earl Marshall of England. 1 procur'd for our Society, besides
printed bookes, neere 100 MSS., some in Greeke of greate concern
ment. The printed bookes being of the oldest impressions are not the
lesse valuable ; I esteem them almost equal to MSS. Amongst them
are most of the Fathers printed at Basil, before the Jesuits abus'd them
with their expurgatory Indexes ; there is a noble MS. of Vitruvlus.
Many of these bookes had ben presented by Popes, Cardinals, and greate
persons, to the Earls of Arundel and Dukes of Norfolk ; and the late
magnificent Earle of Arundel bought a noble library in Germanie,
which is in this collection. I should not, for the honour I beare the
family, have persuaded the Duke to part with these, had I not seene
how negligent he was of them, suffering the priests and every body to
carry away and dispose of what they pleas'd, so that abundance of rare
things are irrecoverably gone.

1678.] 501
Having taken order here, I went to the Royal Society to give them
an account of what I had procur'd, that they might call a Council and
appoint a day to waite on the Duke to thank him for this munificent gift.
3 Sept. I went to London to dine with Mrs. Godolphin ["formerly
Mrs. Blagg, who had ben maid of honour to the Queene], and found
her in labour; she was brought to bed of a sonn, who was baptiz'd in
the chamber, by the name of Francis, ye susceptors being Sr Wm. Go
dolphin (head of the family), Mr. Jn° Hervey, Treassr to the Queene,
and Mrs. Boscawen, sister to Sr William and the father.
8. Whilst I was at church came a letter from Mr. Godolphin that
my deare friend his lady was exceedingly ill, and desiring my prayers
and assistance. My wife and I tooke boate immediately and went to
White-hall, where, to my inexpressible sorrow, I found she had ben
attacq'd with the new fever, then reigning this excessive hot autumn,
and which was so violent that it was not thought she could last
many hours.
9. She died in the 26th yeare of her age, to the inexpressible afflic
tion of her deare husband and all her relations, but of none in the world
more than of myselfe, who lost the most excellent and inestimable
friend that ever liv'd. Never was a more virtuous and inviolable friend
ship ; never a more religious, discreet and admirable creature, beloved
of all, admired of all, for all possible perfections of her sex. She is gon
to receive the reward of her signal charity, and all other her Christian
graces, too blessed a creature to converse with mortals, fitted as she
was by a most holy life to be received into the mansions above. She
was for witt, beauty, good-nature, fidelity, discretion, and all accom
plishments, the most incomparable person. How shall I ever repay the
obligations to her for the infinite good offices she did my soule by so oft
ingao-ing me to make religion the termes and tie of the friendship there
was between us ! She was the best wife, the best mistress, the best
friend that ever husband had. But it is not here that I pretend to
give her character, having design'd to consecrate her worthy life to
posterity. Her husband, struck with unspeakable affliction, fell down as dead.
The King himselfe and all the Court expressed their sorrow. To the

502 [1678.
poore and miserable her losse was irreparable, for there was no degree
but had some obligation to her memorie. So carefull and provident was
she to be prepared for all possible accidents, that (as if she foresaw her
end) she received the heavenly viaticum but the Sunday before, after a
most solemn recollection. She put all her domestic concerns into ye
exactest order, and left a letter directed to her husband, to be opened in
case she died in child-bed, in which with the most pathetic and endear
ing expressions of a most loyal and virtuous wife, she begs his kindnesse
to her memorie might be continu'd by his care and esteeme of those she
left behind, even to her domestic servants, to the meanest of which she
left considerable legacies, as well as to the poore. It was now seven
yeares since she was maid of honor to ye Queene, that she reguarded me
as a father, a brother, and what is more, a friend. We often prayed,
visited the sick and miserable, received, read, discoursed, and commu
nicated in all holy offices together. She was most deare to my wife and
affectionate to my children. But she is gon ! This onely is my com
fort that she is happy in Christ and I shall shortly behold her againe*!
She desir'd to be buried in the dormitorie of his family, neere 300
miles from all her other friends. So afflicted was her husband at this
severe losse, that the intire care of her funerall was committed to me.
Having closed the eyes and dropped a teare upon the cheeke of my
deare departed friend, lovely even in death, I caused her corps to be
embalmed and wrapped in lead, with a plate of brasse soldered thereon,
with an inscription, and other circumstances due to her worth, with as
much diligence and care as my greived heart would permit me ; I then
retired home for two daies, which were spent in solitude and sad
reflections. 17- She was accordingly carried to Godolphin in Cornwall, in a
hearse with six horses, attended by two coaches of as many, with
about 30 of her relations and servants. There accompanied the hearse
her husband's brother Sr Wm, two more of his brothers, and three
sisters : her husband was so overcome with grief, that he was wholly
* In the subsequent part of these memoirs it will appear that Mr. Godolphin (afterwards Lord
Godolphin) continued the steady friend of Mr. Evelyn, whose grandson married into the family.
The infant now mentioned as born, carried on the friendship to the family through a long life.

1678.] 503
unfit to travel so long a journey till he was more composed. I went
as far as Hounslow with a sad heart, but was obliged to return upon
some indispensible affaires. The corpse was ordered to be taken out of
the hearse every night, and decently placed in ye house, with tapers
about it, and her servants attending, to Cornwall ; and then was
honorably interr'd in the parish church of Godolphin. This funeral
cost not much less than ^1,000.
With Mr. Godolphin I looked over and sorted his lady's papers,
most of which consisted of Prayers, Meditations, Sermon-notes, Dis
courses, and Collections on severall religious subjects, and many of her
owne happy composing, and so pertinently digested, as if she had ben
all her life a student in divinity. We found a diary of her solemn
resolutions, all tending to practical virtue, with letters from select
friends, all put into exact method. It astonish'd us to see what she
had read and written, her youth considered.
1 Oct. The Parliament and the whole Nation were alarm'd about a
conspiracy of some eminent Papists for ye destruction of the King and
introduction of Popery, discover'd by one Oates and Dr. Tongue *,
* Ezrael Tong, bred in University College, Oxford, being puritanically inclined, quitted the
University, but in 1648 returned, and was made a Fellow. He had the living of Pluckley in
Kent, but quitted it, being vexed by his parishioners and Quakers. In 1657 he was made Fel
low of the new erected College at Durham, and that being dissolved in 1660, he taught school at
Islington. He then went with Col. Edward Harley to Dunkirk, but thgit being given up, he took
a small living in Herefordshire (Lentwardine) ; but soon quitted it for St. Mary Stayning in Lon
don, which, after the fire in 1666, was united to St. Michael, Wood Street, and he held them to
his death, in 1680. He was a great opponent of the Papists. Wood mentions several publica
tions of his, amongst which are, "The Jesuits unmasked," 1678; "Jesuitical Aphorisms," 1678;
" The Jesuits' Morals," 1C80 (1670) ; the two last translated from the French. Wood's Athen.
Oxon. vol. II. p. 502.
Mr. Evelyn speaks of Dr. Tong's having translated the last of these by his desire.
Oates said that Thomas Whitbread, a priest, on 13 June, 16 . . . did tell the Rector of St. Omer's,
that a Minister of the Church of England had scandalously put out the " Jesuits' Morals" in Eng
lish, and had endeavoured to render them odious, and had asked the Rector whether he thought
Oates might know him ? and the Rector called the deponent, who heard these words as he stood
at the chamber door, and when he went into the chamber of the Provincial, he asked him " If he
knew the author of the Jesuits' Morals ?" deponent answered, "His person, but not his name."
Whitbread then demanded, whether he would undertake to poison or assassinate the author ;
which deponent undertook, having sfi'50. reward promised him, and appointed to return to
England. — From a publication of Oates.

504 [167&.
which last I knew, being the translator of the " Jesuites' Morals ;"
I went to see and converse with him at White-hall, with Mr. Oates,
one that was lately an apostate to the Church of Rome, and now re
turn'd againe with this discovery. He seem'd to be a bold man, and
in my thoughts furiously indiscreete ; but every body believ'd what he
said ; and it quite chang'd the genius and motions of the Parliament,
growing now corrupt and interested with long sitting and court prac
tices : but with all this Poperie would not go downe. This discoverie
turn'd them all as one man against it, and nothing was don but to find
out the depth of this. Oates was encourag'd, and every thing he
affirm'd taken for gospel ; — the truth is, the Roman Catholics were
exceeding bold and busy every where, since the Duke forbore to go
any longer to the Chapell.
16 Oct. Mr. Godolphin requested me to continue the trust his wife
had reposed in me in behalfe of his little sonn, conjuring me to transfer
the friendship I had for his deare wife, on him and his.
21 Oct. The murder of Sr Edmondbury Godfrey, found strangl'd
about this time, as was manifest by ye Papists, he being a Justice of
the Peace, and one who knew much of their practices, as conversant
with Colman (a servant of the .... now accus'd), put the whole
nation into a new ferment against them.
31. Being my 58th of my age, required my humble addresses to
Almighty God, and that he would take off his heavy hand, still on my
family, and restore comforts to us after the losse of my excellent friend.
5 Nov. Dr. Tillotson preach'd before ye Commons at St. Mar
garet's. He said the Papists were now ariv'd at that impudence as to
deny that there ever was any such thing as the gunpowder conspiracy ;
but he affirm'd that he himself had severall letters written by Sir Eve
rard Digby (one of the traytors), in wch he gloried that he was to
suffer for it ; and that it was so contriv'd, that of the Papists not above
two or three should have ben blown up, and they, such as were not
worth saving.
15. The Queene's birth-day. I never saw the Court more brave,
nor the nation in more apprehension and consternation. Coleman and
one Staly had now ben tried, condemn'd, and executed. On this

1678.] 505
Oates grew so presumptuous, as to accuse the Queene of intending to
poison the King, which certainly that pious and vertuous lady abhorr'd
the thoughts of, and Oates his circumstances made it utterly unlikely,
in my opinion. He probably thought to gratifie some who would have
ben glad his Ma1? should have married a fruitfull lady ; but the King
was too kind a husband to let any of these make impression on him.
However divers of the Popish Peeres were sent to ye Towre, accus'd by
Oates, and all the Roman Catholic Lords were by a new act for ever
excluded the Parliament, which was a mighty blow. The King's,
Queen's, and Duke's servants, were banish'd, and a test to be taken
by every body who pretended to enjoy any office of publiq trust, and
who would not be suspected of Popery. I went with Sr W'n Godol
phin, a member of the Commons House, to ye Bp. of Ely (Dr. Pet.
Gunning), to be resolv'd whether masses were Idolatry, as the test
express'd it, wch was so worded that several good Protestants scrupl'd,
and Sr William, tho' a learned man and excellent divine himselfe, had
some doubts about it. The Bishop's opinion was, that he might take
it, tho' he wish'd it had ben otherwise worded in the test.
1679. 15 Jan. I went with my Lady Sunderland to Chelsey, and
din'd with the Countesse of Bristol [her mother] in the greate house,
formerly the Duke of Buckingham's, a spacious and excellent place
for the extent of ground and situation in a good aire. The house is
large, but ill contriv'd, tho' my Lord of Bristol, who purchas'd it after
he sold Wimbledon to my Lord Treasurer, expended much mony on
it. There were divers pictures of Titian and Vandyke, and some of
Bassano, very excellent, especialy an Adonis and Venus, a Duke of
Venice, a Butcher in his shambles selling meate to a Swisse ; and of
Van-Dyke, my fjord of Bristol's picture, with the Earl of Bedford's
at length, in the same table. There was in the garden a rare collec
tion of orange-trees, of which she was pleas'd to bestow some upon me.
16. I supp'd this night with Mr. Secretary at one Mr. Houblon's,
a French merchant, who had his bouse furnish'd en Prince, and gave
us a splendid entertainment.
' 25. The Long Parliament, which had sat ever since the Restau-
ration, was dissolv'd by persuasion of the Lord Tressr, tho' divers of
Vol. 1. 3 t

506 [1679-
them were believ'd to be his pensioners. At this ail the politicians
were at a stand, they being very eager in pursuite of the late Plot of
the Papists.
30. Dr. Cudworth preached before the King at White-hall, on
2 Timothy 3. 5. reckoning up the perils of ye last times, in which,
amongst other wickednesse, Treasons should be one of the greatest,
applying it to the occasion, as committed under a forme of reforma
tion and godlinesse; concluding that the prophesy did intend more
particularly the present age, as one of the last times ; the sinns there
enumerated, more aboundantly reigning then ever.
2 Feb. Dr. Durell, Dean of Windsor, preach'd to the Household
at White-hall, on 1 Cor. 16. 22 ; he read ye whole sermon out of his
notes, which I had never before seene a Frenchman do, he being of
Jersey, and bred at Paris.
4. Dr. Pierce, Deane of Salisbury, preached on 1 John 4. 1, " Try
the Spirits, there being so many delusorie ones gone forth of late
into the world:" he inveied against the pernicious doctrines of Mr.
Hobbes. My brother Evelyn was now chosen Knight for ye County of Surrey,
carrying it against my Lord Longford and Sr Adam Brown of Betch-
worth Castle. The country coming in to give him their suffrages were
so many, that I believe they eate and dranke him out neere ^.2,000,
by a most abominable costome.
I April. My friend Mr. Godolphin was now made one of the Lords
Commissioners of the Treasury, and of the Privy Council.
4. The Bp. of Gloucester preach'd, in a manner very like Bishop
Andrews, full of divisions, and scholastical, and that with much quick -
nesse. The holy Communion followed.
20. Easter Day. Our Vicar preached exceeding well on 1 Cor.
5 and 7- The holy Communion followed, at which I and my daughter
Mary (now about 14 yeares old) received for the first time. The
Lord Jesus continue his grace unto her, and improve this blessed
beginning. 24. The Duke of York, voted against by the Commons for his
recusancy, went over to Flanders, which made much discourse.

1679-] 507
4 June. I din'd with Mr. Pepys in the Tower, he having ben com
mitted by ye House of Commons for misdemeanors in the Admiralty
when he was Secretary ; I believe he was unjustly charg'd *. Here I
saluted my Lords Stafford and Petre, who were committed for the
Popish Plot
7- I saw the magnificent cavalcade and entry of the Portugal Am
bassador. 17- I was godfather to a sonn of Sir Christr Wren, Surveyor of his
Matys buildings, that most excellent and learned person, with Sr Wil
liam Fermor and my Lady Viscountesse Newport, wife of the Trea
surer of the Household.
Thence to Chelsey, to Sr Stephen Fox, and my lady, in order to his
purchase of the Csse of Bristol's house there, which she desir'd me to
procure a chapman for.
19. 1 din'd at Sr Rob' Clayton's with Sr Rob1 Viner, the greate
banquer. 22. There were now divers Jesuites executed about the Plot, and a
rebellion In Scotland of the Phanatics, so that there was a sad prospect
of public affairs.
25. The new Commissioners of the Admiralty came to visite me,
viz. Sr Hen. Capel, brother to the Earle of Essex, Mr. Finch, eldest
son to the Lord Chancellor, Sir Humph. Winch, Sr Tho. Meeres, Mr.
Hales, with some of ye Commissioners of the Navy. I went with them
to London.1 July. I dined at Sr William Godolphin's, and with that learned
gentleman went to take ye aire in Hyde Park, where was a glorious
cortege. 3 July. Sending a piece of venison to Mr. Pepys, still a prisoner, I
went and din'd with him.
6. Now were there papers, speeches, and libels, publiqly cried in
the streetes against ye Dukes of York and Lauderdale, &c. obnoxious

* Mr. Pepys was concerned in a contested election in 1684, and his opponent accused him of
being a Papist, which the House of Commons inquired into, but without finding any proof. By
Grey's Debates it appears that he was accused of having sent information to the French court
of the state of the English Navy. Most incredible !

508 [1679.
to the Parliament, with too much and indeede too shameful a liberty ;
but yc people and Parliament had gotten head by reason of the vices of
the greate ones.
There was now brought up to London a child, son of one Mr.
Wotton *, formerly amanuensis to Dr. Andrews, Bisbop of Winton,
who both read and perfectly understood Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Arabic,
Syriac, and most of the modern languages ; disputed in Divinity, Law,
and all the Sciences ; was skilful in History both Ecclesiastical and
Profane; in Politics; in a word, so universally and solidly learned at
11 yeares of age, that he was looked on as a miracle. Dr. Lloyd, one
of the most deepe learned divines of this nation in all sorts of literature,
with Dr. Burnet, who had severely examin'd him, came away asto
nish'd, and told me they did not believe there had the like appear'd in
* The Rev. Henry Wotton, Minister of Wrentham,'in Suffolk. This son was afterwards the
celebrated Wm. Wotton, the friend and defender of Dr. Bentley, and the antagonist of Sir William
Temple in the great Controversy about Antient and Modern Learning. His early and extraordi
nary proficiency in letters and general knowledge of every kind, was commemorated by his father
in a pamphlet " On ye Education of Children," addressed to King Charles II. and reprinted in
1753, with the attestations of several learned men who had examined him, to the truth of his un
common abilities and wonderful acquisitions in the different languages, both antient and modern ;
yet it is remarkable those eminent qualifications did not advance him in the line of his profession
beyond a Fellowship at Cambridge and a country parsonage, viz. Milton, in Buckinghamshire,
which was given him by the Earl of Nottingham, to whom he had been Chaplain. Sir Philip
Skippon, who lived at Wrentham in Suffolk, in a letter to Mr. John Ray, Sep. IS, 1671, writes :
" I shall somewhat surprize you with what I have seen in a little boy, Wm Wotton, 5 years old last
month, son of Mr. Wotton, minister of this parish, who hath instructed his child within the last
3 qrs of a year in the reading the Latin, Greek and Hebrew languages, w<=h he can read almost
as well as English, and that tongue he .could read at four years and three months old,
as well as most lads of twice his age." Sir Philip left a draft of a longer letter to Mr. Ray, in
which he adds, " He is not yet able to parse any language, but what he performs in turning the 3
learned tongues into English, is done by strength of memory, so that he is ready to mistake when
some words of different signification have near the same sound, His father hath taught him by
no rules, but only uses his memory in remembering words."— He was admitted of Catharine Hall,
Cambridge, April 1676, some months before he was 10 years old. He took the degree of B. A.
when only 12 years and 5 months old. Dr. Burnet, Bp. of Sarum, recommended him to Dr!
Lloyd, Bp. of St. Asaph, who took him as an assistant in making a Catalogue of his books, and
carried him to St. Asaph, and gave him the sinecure of Llandrillo in Denbighshire. He suffered
from the satirical pen of Swift ; but this is no wonder, as he had spoken of the Tale of a Tub as a
profane piece of ribaldry. He compiled Memoirs of the Cathedral Churches of St. David and St.
Asaph, which Browne Willis published. When very young, he remembered almost the whole of
any discourse he had heard, and repeated to Bp. Lloyd one of his own sermons. He died ui 1729,
aged 61, and was buried at Buxted in Sussex.

1679,] 509
the world. He had onely ben instructed by his father, who being him
selfe a learned person, confess'd that his sonn knew all that he himselfe
knew. But what was more admirable than his vast memory was his
judgment and invention, he being tried with divers hard questions,
which requir'd maturity of thought and experience. He was also
dextrous in Chronology, Antiquities, Mathematics. In sum, an Intel-
lectus universalis, beyond all that we reade of Picus Mirandula, and
other precoce witts, and yet withall a very humble child.
14. I went to see how things stood at Parson's Green, my lady
Viscountesse Mordaunt (now sick in Paris, whither she went for health)
having made me a trustee for her children, an office I could not refuse
to this most excellent, pious, and virtuous lady, my long acquaintance.
15. I din'd with Mr. Sidney Godolphin, now one of the Lords
Commissrs of ye Treasury.
18. I went early to the Old Bailey Sessions-house, to the famous
trial of Sir George Wakeman, one of the Queene's physitians, and three
Benedictine Monks ; the first (whom I was well acquainted with, and
take to be a worthy gentleman abhorring such a fact) for intending to
poison the King ; the others, as accomplices to carry on the plott, to
subvert the government and introduce Popery. The Bench was crowded
with yc Judges, Lord Maior, Justices, and innumerable spectators.
The cheife accusers, Dr. Oates (as he call'd himselfe), and one Bedlow,
a man of inferior note. Their testitnonys were not so pregnant, and I
feare much of it from hearsay, but swearing positively to some particu
lars, which drew suspicion upon their truth ; nor did circumstances so
agree as to give either the Bench or Jury so entire satisfaction as was
expected. After therefore a long and tedious tryal of 9 houres, the
Jury brought them In not guilty, to the extraordinary triumph of the
Papists, and without sufficient disadvantage and reflections on the wit
nesses, especialy Oates and Bedlow. This was a happy day for the
Lords in the Tower, who expecting their triall, had this gon against the
prisoners at ye bar, would all have ben in the utmost hazard. For my
part, I looke on Oates as a vain insolent man, puff'd up with the favour
of the Commons for having discover'd something real y true, more espe
cialy as detecting the dangerous intrigue of Coleman, prov'd out of his

510 Cl679^
owne letters, and of a generall designe which the Jesuited party of the
Papists ever had, and still have, to ruine the Church of England ; but
that he was trusted with those greate seacrets he pretended, or had any
solid ground for what he accus'd divers noblemen of, I have many
reasons to induce my contrary beliefe. That among so many Com
missions as he affirm'd to have deliver'd to them from P. Oliva * and
the Pope, he who made no scruple of opening all other papers, letters,
and seacrets, should not only not open any of those pretended Com
missions, but not so much as take any copy or witnesse of any one
of them, is almost miraculous. But the Commons (some leading per
sons I meane of them) had so exalted him, that they tooke all he said
for gospell, and without more ado ruin'd all whom he nam'd to be
conspirators ; nor did he spare whoever came in his way. But indeede
the murder of Sr Edm. Godfrey, suspected to have ben compass'd by
the Jesuite party for his intimacy with Coleman. (a buisy person whom
I also knew) and the feare they had that he was able to have discover'd
some things to their prejudice, did so exasperate not only the Commons
but all the Nation, that much of these sharpnesses against the more
honest Roman Catholics who liv'd peaceably, is to be imputed to that
horrid fact.
The Sessions ended, I din'd, or rather supp'd (so late it was), with
the Judges f in the large roome annex'd to ye place, and so return'd
home. Tho' it was not my costome or delight to be often present at
any capita] trials, we having them commonly so exactly publish'd by
those who take them In short-hand, yet I was inclin'd to be at this
signal one, that by the ocular view of the carriages and other circum
stances of the managers and parties concerned, I might informe my
selfe, and regulate my opinion of a cause that had so alarm'd ye
whole, nation.
22 July. Din'd at Clapham at S' D. Gauden's; went thence with
him to Windsor, to assist him in a business with his Ma*. I lay that

* Padre Oliva, General of the Order of Jesuits.
f The Judges were, Lord Chief Justice North, Mr. Justice Atkins, Mr. Justice Windham, Mr
Justice Pemberton, Mr. Justice Dolben.

#679-3 511
night at Eton College, the Provost's lodgings (Dr. Craddock), where I
was courteously entertained.
23. To Court : after dinner I visited that excellent painter Verrio,
whose works in fresca in the King's palace at Windsor will celebrate
his name as long as those walls last. He shew'd us his pretty garden,
choice flowers, and curiosities, he himselfe being a skilfull gardener.
I went to Clifden, that stupendous natural rock, wood, and prospect,
of ye Duke of Buckingham's*, buildings of extraordinary expence.
The grotts in yc chalky rock are pretty : 'tis a romantic object, and the
place altogether answers the most poetical description that can be made
of solitude, precipice, prospect, or whatever can contribute to a thing
so very like their imaginations. The stande, somewhat like Frascati as
to its front, and on ye platform, is a circular view to yc utmost verge of
yc horizon, which with the serpenting of the Thames is admirable. The
staire case is for its materials singular ; the cloisters, descents, gardens,
and avenue thro' the wood, august and stately, but the land all about
wretchedly barren, and producing nothing but feme. Indeede, as I
told his Ma* that evening (asking me how I lik'd Clifden) without
flattery, that it did not please me so well as Windsor for the prospect
and park, which is without compare, there being but one only opening,
and that narrow, which led one to any variety, whereas that of Windsor
is every where greate and unconfin'd.
Returning I call'd at my cousin Evelyn's, who has a very pretty seate
in the forest, 2 miles behither Clifden, on a flat, with gardens exqui
sitely kept tho' large, and the house a stanch good old building, and
what was singular, some of the roomes floor'd dove-tail-wise without
a nail, exactly close. One of the closetts is parquetted with plaine
deale, set in diamond, exceeding stanch and pretty.
7 Aug. Dined at the Sheriffs, when, the Company of Drapers and
their wives being invited, there was a sumptuous entertainment ac-

Cliefden's proud alcove,

The bower of wanton Shrewsbury and Love. Pope.
The Countess of xShrewsbury, whose husband having challenged the Duke, she is said to have
held the horse of the latter in the habit of a page whilst (hey fought.

512 [1679.
cording to the formes of the Citty with musiq, &c. comparable to any
Prince's service in Europ.
8. I went this morning to shew my Lord Chamberlaine, his Lady,
and the Dutchesse of Grafton, the incomparable work of Mr. Gibbons
the carver, whom I first recommended to his Ma*, his house being
furnish'd like a cabinet, not onely with his owne work, but divers ex
cellent paintings of ye best hands. Thence to Sir Stephen Foxes,
where we spent the day.
31. After evening service to see a neighbour, ' one Mr. Bohun, re
lated to my sonn's late tutor of that name, a rich- Spanish merchant,
living in a neate place, which he has adorned with many curiosities,
especialy severall carvings of Mr. Gibbons, and some pictures by
Streeter. 13 Sept. To Windsor, to congratulate his Ma* on his recovery; I
kiss'd the Duke's hand now lately return'd from Flanders to visite his
brother the King, on which there were various bold and foolish dis
courses, the Duke of Monmouth being sent away.
19. My Lord Sunderland, one of the principal Secretaries of State,
invited me to dinner, where was the King's natural sonn, the Earle
of Plymouth, the Earle of Shrewsbury, E. of Essex, E. of Mulgrave,
Mr. Hyde, and Mr. Godolphin. After dinner I went to prayers at Eton,
and visited Mr. Hen. Godolphin, fellow there, and Dr. Cradock.
25. Mr. Slingsby and Sig1 Verrio came to dine with me, to whom
I gave China oranges off my owne trees, as good, I think, as were ever
eaten. 6 Oct. A very wet and sickly season.
23. Dined at my Ld Chamberlaines, the King being now newly re
turned from his New-market recreations.
4 Nov. Din'd at the Lord Maior's, and in the evening went to yc
funerall of my pious, dear, and ancient learned friend, Dr. Jasper
Needham, who was buried at St. Bride's Church. He was a true and
holy Christian, and one who lov'd me with greate affection. Dr. Dove
preach'd with an eulogie due to his memory. I lost in this person one
of my dearest remaining sincere friends.

1679-] 513
5. I was invited to dine at my Lord Tividale's, a Scotch Earle, a
learned and knowing nobleman. We afterwards went to see Mr.
Mountague's new palace neere Bloomsbery, built by our curator Mr.
Hooke, somewhat after the French ; it was most nobly furnish'd, and
a fine, but too much expos'd garden *.
6. Din'd at the Countesse of Sunderland's, and was this evening at
the re-marriage f of the Dutchesse of Grafton to the Duke (his Ma
jesty's natural sonn) she being now 12 years old. The ceremonie was
perform'd in my Lord Chamberlaines (her fathers) lodgings at White
hall by ye Bishop of Rochester, his Ma* being present. A sudden and
unexpected thing, when every body believ'd the first marriage would
have come to nothing ; but the measure being determin'd I was pri
vately invited by my Lady, her mother, to be present. I confesse I
could give her little joy, and so I plainely told her, but she said the
King would have if so, and there was no going back. This sweetest,
hopefullest, most beautifull child, and most vertuous too, was sacri-
fic'd to a boy that had ben rudely bred, without any thing to encourage
them but his Ma*'s pleasure. I pray God the sweete child find it to
her advantage, who, if my augury deceive me not, will in few years be
such a paragon as were fit to make the wife of the greatest Prince in
Europe. I staied supper, where his Ma* sate betweene the Dutchesse
of Cleaveland (the mother of ye Duke of Grafton) and the sweete
Dutchesse the bride ; there were several greate persons and ladies, with
out pomp. My love to my Lord Arlington's family and the sweete
child made me behold all this with regret, tho' as the Duke of Grafton
affects the sea, to which I find his father intends to use him, he may
emerge a plaine, usefull, and robust officer, and were he polish'd, a
tolerable person, for he is exceeding handsome, by far surpassing any
of the King's other naturall issue.
8 Nov. At Sir Stephen Fox's, and was agreeing for the Countesse
of Bristol's house at Chelsey within ,§£.500.
18. I din'd at my Lord Maiors [Sir Rob1 Clayton] being desir'd by
the Countesse of Sunderland to carry her thither on a solemn day, that

* This is now the British Museum. See under the year 1683, Oct. f See P- 45<s-
VOL. I. 3 u

514 [1679-
she might see the pomp and ceremonie of this Prince of Citizens, there
never having ben any, who, for ye stateliness of his palace, prodigious
feasting, and magnificence, exceeded him. This Lord Maior's ac
quaintance had ben from the time of his being apprentice to one Mr.
Abbot, his uncle *, who being a scrivener, and an honestworthy man,
one who was condemn'd to die at the beginning of the troubles 40
years past, as concern'd in the commission of array for K. Charles I.
had escap'd with his life ; I often us'd his assistance in money mat
ters. Rob* Clayton, then a boy, his nephew, became after his uncle
Abbot's death, so prodigiously rich and opulent, that he was reckon'd
one of the wealthiest citizens. He married a free-hearted woman, who
became his hospitable disposition, and having no children, with the
accession of his partner and fellow apprentice -j*, who also left him his
estate, he grew excessively rich. He was a discreete magistrate, and
tho' envied, I think without much cause. Some believ'd him guilty
of hard dealing, especialy with the Duke of Buckingham, much of
whose estate he had swallow'd, but I never saw any ill bv him, con
sidering the trade he was of. The reputation and known integrity of
his uncle Abbot brought all the royal party to him, by which he got not
onely greate credit, but vast wealth, so as he pass'd this office with in
finite magnificence and honor.
20 Nov. I din'd with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, with my
wife, invited to heare musiq, which was exquisitely perform'd by foure
of the most renown 'd masters ; Du Prue, a Frenchman, on ye lute ;
Sign' Bartholomeo, an Italian, on the harpsichord ; Nicolao on the vio
lin ; but above all for its sweetnesse and novelty, the viol d'amore of 5
wyre-strings plaied on with a bow, being but an ordinary violin,
play'd on lyre way by a German. There was also a flute douce, now
in much request for accompanying the voice. Mr. Slingsby, whose
sonn and daughter play'd skilfully, had these meetings frequently in
his house.
21 . I din'd at my Lord Maior's to accompany my worthiest and ge
nerous friend the Earl of Ossorie ; it was on a Friday, a private day,

* See p. 494. t Mr- Morris,.

1679.] 515
but the feast and entertainment might have become a King. Such an
hospitable costume and splendid magistrature dos no city in the world
shew, as I believe.
23. Dr. AUestree preach'd before the household on 11 St. Luke 2.
Dr. Lloyd on 28 Matt. 20. before the King, shewing with how little
reason the Papists applied those words of our Blessed Saviour to maintaine
the pretended infallibility they boast of. I never heard a more Christian
and excellent discourse : yet were some offended that he seemed to say
the Church of Rome was a true Church ; but 'twas a captious mistake,
for he never affirmed any thing that could be more to their reproach^
and that such was the present Church of Rome, showing how much
it had erred. There was not in this sermon so much as a shadow for
censure, no person of all the Cleargy having testified greater zeale
against the errors of the Papists than this pious and most learned per
son. I dined at the Bishop of Rochester's, and then went to St. Paul's
to heare that greate wit Dr. Sprat, now newly succeeding Dr. Outram
in the cure of St. Margaret's. His talent was a great memory, never
making use of notes, a readinesse of expression in a most pure and plain
style of words, full of matter, easily deliver'd.
26 Nov. I met the Earle of Clarendon with the rest of my fellow
executors of ye Will of my late Lady Viscsse Mordaunt, viz. Mr. Lau
rence Hyde, one of ye Commissrs of the Treasury, and lately Plenipo
tentiary Ambassador at Nimeguen ; Andrew Newport, and Sr Charles
Wheeler, to examine and audit and dispose of this year's accompt of
tbe estate of this excellent Lady, according to the direction of her will.
27- I went to see Sir John Stonehouse, with whom I was treating
a marriage between my sonn and his daughter-in-law.
28. Came over the Duke of Monmouth from Holland unexpectedly
to his Ma*, whilst the Duke of York was on his journey to Scotland,
whither the King sent him to reside and governe. The bells and bon
fires of the Citty at this arrival of the Duke of Monmouth publishing
their joy, to the no small regret of some-at Court. This Duke, whom
for distinction they call'd the Protestant Duke (tho' the sonn of an
abandon'd woman), yc people made their idol.

516 [1679-
4 Dec. I din'd, together with Lord Ossorie and the E. of Chester
field, at the Portugal Ambass1'3, now newly come, at Cleaveland House,
a noble palace, too good for that infamous ..... The staire-case is
sumptuous, and the gallerie and garden, but above all yb costly furni
ture belonging to the Ambassador, especialy the rich Japan cabinets,
of which I think there were a dozen. There was a billiard-table, with
as many more hazards as ours commonly have ; the game being only to
prosecute ye ball till hazarded, without passing the port or touching
the pin ; if one miss hitting the ball every time, the game is lost, or if
hazarded. Tis more difficult to hazard a ball, tho' so many, than in
our table, by reason the bound is made so exactly even, and the edges
not stufFd; the balls also are bigger, and they for the most part use the
sharp and small end of ye billiard stick, which is shod with brasse or
silver. The entertainment was exceeding civil, but besides a good
olio, the dishes were trifling, hash'd and condited after their way, not
at all fit for an English stomach, which is for solid meate. There was
yet good fowle, but roasted to coale, nor were the sweetemeates good.
30 Dec. I went to meete Sr John Stonehouse, and give him a par
ticular of the settlement on my sonn, who now made his addresses to
the young lady his daughter-in-law, daughter of Lady Stonehouse.
1680. 25 Jan. Dr. Cave, author of " Primitive Christianity," &c.
a pious and learned man, preached at White-hall- to the household on 3
James 17? concerning the duty of grace and charity.
30. 1 supped with Sir Stephen Fox, now made one of the Lords
Commissioners of the Treasury.
19 Feb. The writings for the settling joynture and other contracts
of marriage of my sonn were finished and sealed. The lady was to bring
5000Z. in consideration of a settlement of 500/. a yeare present main
tenance, which was likewise to be her jointure, and 5001. a yeare after
myne and my wife's decease. But with God's blessing it will be at the
least 1000Z. a yeare more in few yeares. I pray God make him worthy
of it, and a comfort to his excellent mother, who deserves much
from him.
21. Shrove Tuesday. My sonn was married to Mrs. Martha Spen
cer, daughter to my Lady Stonehouse by a former gentleman, at St.

i68o.] 517
Andrew's Holborn, by our Vicar, borrowing the Church of Dr. Stil-
llngfleet, Deane of St. Paul's, the present incumbent. We afterwards
din'd at a house in Holborn ; and after the solemnity and dauncing was
don, they were bedded at Sr John Stonehouse's lodging in Bow-streete,
Covent Garden.
26. To the R. Society, where I met an Irish Bishop with his Lady,
who was daughter to my worthy and pious friend Dr. Jeremy Taylor,
late Bp. of Downe and Connor; they came to see the Repository. She
seemed to be a knowing woman, beyond the ordinary talent of her sex.
3 March. I din'd at my Lord Mayor's in order to the meeting my
Lady Beckford, whose daughter (a rich heiresse) I had recommended
to my brother of Wotton for his only sonn, she being the daughter of
the lady by Mr. Ersfield [Eversfield], a Sussex gentleman.
16. To London, to receive 3000Z. of my daughter in law's portion,
which was paid in gold.
26. The Dean of Sarum preach'd on Jerem. 45, 5, an hour and
halfe from his common-place book of kings and greate men retiring to
private situations. Scarce any thing of Scripture in it.
18 April. On the earnest invitation of the Earle of Essex I went
with him to his house at Cashioberie in Hartford-shire. It was on
Sunday, but going early from his house in the square of St. James, we
ariv'd by ten o'clock ; this he thought too late to go to church, and we
had prayers in his chapell. The house is new, a plaine fabric, built
by my friend Mr. Hugh May. There are divers faire and good
roomes, and excellent carving by Gibbons, especialy the chimney-piece
of ye Library. There is in the porch or entrance a painting by Verrio,
of Apollo and the Liberal Arts. One roome parquetted with yew,
which I lik'd well. Some of the chimney mantles are of Irish marble,
brought by my Lord from Ireland when he was Lord Lieutenant, and
not much inferior to Italian. The tympanum or gabal at the front is a
bass-relievo of Diana hunting, cut in Portland stone, handsomely
enough. I did not approve of the middle dores being round, but when
the Hall is finish'd as design'd, it being an oval with a cupola, together
with the other wing, it will be a very noble palace. The library is
laro-e, and very nobly furnish'd, and all the books are richly bound

518 [l68°-
and gilded ; but there are no MSS. except the Parliament Rolls and
Journals, the transcribing and binding of wch cost him, as he assur'd
me, 5001.
No man has ben more industrious than this noble Lord in planting
about his seate, adorn'd with walkes, ponds, and other rural elegan
cies ; but the soile is stonie, churlish, and uneven, nor is the water
neere enough to the house, tho' a very swift and cleare streame run
within a flight shot from it in the vally, which may fitly be call'd Cold-
brook, it being indeede excessive cold, yet producing fair troutes. 'Tis
pitty the house was not situated to more advantage, but it seemes it was
built just where the old one was, which I believe he onely meant to
repaire ; this leads men into irremediable errors, and saves but a little.
The land about it is exceedingly addicted to wood, but the coldnesse
of the place hinders the growth. Black cherry-trees prosper even to
considerable timber, some being 80 foote long ; they make also very
handsome avenues. There is- a pretty oval at the end of a faire walke,
set about with treble rows of Spanish chesnut trees.
The gardens are very rare, and cannot be otherwise, having so skill
ful an artist to govern them as Mr. Cooke, who is, as to ye mechanic
part, not Ignorant in Mathematics, and pretends to Astrologie. There
is an excellent collection of the choicest fruit.
As for my Lord, he is a sober, wise, judicious, and pondering person,
not illiterate beyond the rate of most noblemen in this age, very well
vers'd in English historie and affaires, industrious, frugal, methodical,
and every way accomplish'd. His Lady (being sister of the late Earle
of Northumberland) is a wise, yet somewhat melancholy woman, set
ting her heart too much on the little lady her daughter, of whom she
is over fond. They have an hopeful son at ye Academic
My Lord was not long since come from his Lord Lieutenancy of
Ireland, where he shew'd his abilities in administration and govern
ment, as well as prudence in considerably augmenting his estate with
out reproch. He had ben Ambass1' Extraordinary in Denmark, and,
in a word, such a person as became the sonn of that worthy Hero
his father to be, the late Lord Capel, who lost his life for K. Charles I.
We spent our time in the mornings in walking or riding, and con-

1680.] 519
triving [alterations], and the afternoones in the Library, so as I pass'd
my time for 3 or 4 daies with much satisfaction. He was pleas'd in
conversation to impart to me divers particulars of state, relating to the
present times. He being no great friend to the D  was now laid
aside, his Integritie and abilities being not so suiteable in this con
juncture. 21. I returned to London.
30 April. To a meeting of the executors of late Viscsse Mordaunt's
estate, to consider of the sale of Parsons Greene, being in treaty with
Mr. Loftus, and to settle the halfe yeare's account.
1 May. Was a meeting of the feoffees of the poore of our parish.
This yeare I would stand one of the collectors of their rents, to give
example to others. My sonn was added to the feoffees.
This afternoone came to visit me Sr Edw. Deering of Surrendon in
Kent, one of the Lords of the Treasury, with his daughter, married to
my worthy friend Sr Robert Southwell, Clerk of the Council, now
Extraordinary Envoye to the Duke of Brandenburgh, and other
Princes in Germanie, as before he had ben in Portugal, being a sober,
wise, and virtuous gentleman.
13. I was at the funeral of old Mr. Shish, master shipwright of his
Ma*s Yard here, an honest and remarkable man, and his death a
public losse, for his excellent successe in building ships (tho' altogether
illiterate), and for breeding up so many of his children to be able artists.
I held up the pall with three knights, who did him that honour, and he
was worthy of it. It was the costome of this good man to rise in the
night, and to pray kneeling in his owne coffin, wcb he had lying by
him many yeares. He was borne that famous yeare the Gunpowder
plot 1605.
14 June. Came to dine with us the Countesse of Clarendon, Dr.
Lloyd, Deane of Bangor, (since Bp. of St. Asaph,) Dr. Burnett,
author of the History of the Reformation, and my old friend Mr. Hen
shaw. After dinner we all went to see the Observatory and Mr.
Flamsted, who shew'd us divers rare instruments, especialy the greate
quadrant. 24 July. Went with my wife and daughter to Windsor, to see that
stately Court, now neere finish'd. There was erected in the Court the

520 [1680-.
King on horseback, lately cast in copper, and set on a rich pedestal of
white marble, the worke of Mr. Gibbons, at the expence of Toby
Rustate, a page * of the back staires, who by his wonderful frugality
had ariv'd to a greate estate in mony, and did many works of charity,
as well as this of gratitude to his Master, wcb cost him 1000/. He is
a very simple, ignorant, but honest and loyal creature.
We all din'd at the Countesse of Sunderland's, -afterwards to see
Sign^ Verrio's garden, thence to Eton College to salute the Provost,
and heard a Latine speech of one of the Alumni (it being at the elec
tion), and were invited to supper, but took our leave, and got to Lon
don that night in good time.
26. My most noble and illustrious friend, the Earle of Ossorie, es
pying me this morning after sermon in the privy gallery, calling to me,
told me he was now going his journey (meaning to Tangier, whither he
was designed Governor and General of the Forces, to regaine the losses
we had lately sustain'd from the Moors, when lnchequeen was Gover
nor). I ask'd if he would not call at my house (as he always did when
ever he went out of England on any exploit); he said he must embark
at Portsmouth, "wherefore let you and I dine together to-day, I am quite
alone, and have something to impart to you ; I am not well, shall be
private, and desire your company." Being retir'd to his lodgings and
set down on a couch, he sent to his secretary for the copy of a letter wch
he had written to Lord Sunderland (Secretary of State), wishing me to
reade it ; it was to take notice how ill he resented it that he should tell
the King before Lord Ossorie's face, that Tangier was not to be kept
but would certainly be lost, and yet added that 'twas fit Lord Ossorie
should be sent, that they might give some account of it to the world,
meaning (as suppos'd) the next Parliament, when all such miscarriages
would probably be examin'd ; this Lord Ossorie took very ill of Lord
Sunderland, and not kindly of the King, who resolving to send him
with an incompetent force, seem'd, as his Lordship tooke it, to be
willing to cast him away, not only on a hazardous adventure, but in
* Mr. Tobias Rustate. He was a great benefactor to Jesus College, Cambridge, in particular, by
an endowment of scholarships there for the benefit of young students, orphan sons of Clergymen.

1680.] 521
most men's opinion an impossibility, seeing there was not to be above 3
or 400 horse and 4000 foote for the garrison and all, both to defend yB
towne, forme a camp, repulse the enemy, and fortifie what ground
they should get in. This touch'd my Lord deeply, that he should be
so little consider'd as to put him on a businesse in which he should pro
bably not only loose his reputation, but be charg'd with all the mis
carriages and ill successe ; whereas at first they promis'd 6000 foote
and 600 horse effective. My Lord being an exceeding brave and
valiant person, and who had so appro v'd himself in divers signal
batailes, both at sea and land ; so belov'd, and so esteem'd by ye people,
as one they depended upon all occasions worthy of such a captain ; he
looked on this as too greate an indifference in his Ma* after all his ser
vices, and the merits of his father the Duke of Ormond, and a designe
of some who envied his virtue. It certainly tooke so deepe roote1 in his
mind, that he who was the most void of feare in the world (and assur'd
me he would go to Tangier with 10 men if his Ma* commanded him)
could not beare up against this unkindness. Having disburden'd him
selfe of this to me after dinner, he went with his Ma* to the Sheriffs
at a greate supper in Fishmongers Hall, but finding himselfe ill, tooke
his leave Immediately of his Ma*, and came back to his lodging. Not
resting well this night, he was persuaded to remove to Arlington House
for better accommodation. His disorder turn'd to a malignant fever, wch
increasing after all that six of the most able physicians could do, he
became delirious, with intervals of sense, during which Dr. Lloyd
(after Bp. of St. Asaph) administer'd the holy sacrament, of which I also
participated. He died the Friday following, the 30 July, to the uni
versal oriefe of all that knew or heard of his greate worth, nor had any
a greater losse than myselfe. Oft would he say I was the oldest ac
quaintance he had in England (when his Father was in Ireland), it
beinw now of above 30 yeares, contracted abroad, when he rid in
the Academie jn Paris, and when we were seldome asunder. His Ma*
never lost a worthier subject, nor father a better or more dutiful son ;
a loving, generous, good-natur'd, and perfectly obliging friend ; one
who had done innumerable kindnesses to severall before they knew
it ; nor did he ever advance any that were not worthy ; no one more
vol. i. 3 x

522 [l68o.
brave, more modest : none more humble, sober, and every way vir
tuous. Unhappy England in this illustrions person's .loss ! Universal
was the mourning for him and the eulogies on him ; I staied night and
day by his bed-side to his last gasp, to close his deare eyes ! O sad
father, mother, wife, and children ! What shall I add ! he deserv'd all
that a sincere friend, a brave souldier, a virtuous courtier, a loyal sub
ject, an honest man, a bountifull master, and good Christian could
deserve of his Prince and Country. One thing more let me note, that
he often express'd to me the abhorrence he had of that base and unwor
thy action which he was put upon, of engaging the Smyrna fleete in
time of peace, in which tho' he behav'd himselfe like a greate captaine,
yet he told me it was the onely blot in his life, and troubled him exceed
ingly. Tho' he was commanded, and never examin'd further when he
was so, yet he always spake of it with regret and detestation. The
Countesse was at the seate of her daughter, the Countesse of Derby,
almost 200 miles off.
30 Aug1. I went to visite a French gent", one Monsr Chardine, who
having ben thrice in the East Indies, Persia, and other remote coun
tries, came hither in our returne ships from those parts, and it being
reported that he was a very curious and knowing man, I was desir'd by
the R. Society to salute him in their name, and to invite him to honour
them with his company. S1' Jo. Hoskins and Sr Christ1, Wren accompa
nied me. We found him at his lodgings in his Eastern habit, a very
handsome, person, extremely affable, a modest, well-bred man, not in-
clln'd to talke wonders. He spake Latine, and understood Greeke, Ara
bic, and Persian, from 11 years travels in those parts, whither he went
in search of Jewells, and was become very rich. He seem'd about 36
years of age. After the usual civilities we ask'd some account of yu ex
traordinary things he must have seene in travelling over land to those
places where few, if any, Northern Europeans us'd to go, as the
Black and Caspian Sea, Mingrelia, Bagdat, Nineveh, Persepolis,
&c. He told us that the things most worthy of our sight would be, the
draughts he had caus'd to be made of some noble ruines, &c. for that,
besides his own little talent that way, he had carried two good painters
with him, to draw landskips, measure and designe the remaines of the

1680.] 523
palace wch Alexander burnt in his frolic at Persepolis, with divers temples,
columns, relievos, and statues, yet extant, wch he affirm'd to be sculp
ture far exceeding any thing he had observ'd either at Rome, in Greece,
or in any other part of ye world where magnificence was in estimation.
He said there was an inscription in letters not intelligible, though en
tire. He was sorry he could not gratify the curiosity of the Society at
present, his things not being yet out of the ship, but would wait on
them with them on his returne from Paris, whither he was going the
next day, but with intention to returne suddenly, and stay longer here,
the persecution In France not suffering Protestants, and he was one, to
be quiet. He told us that Nineveh was a vast citty, now all buried in
her ruines, the inhabitants building on ye subterranean vaults, which
were, as appear'd, the first stories of the old Cittie ; that there were fre
quently found huge vasas of fine earth, columns, and other antiquities ;
that the straw which the Egyptians requir'd of ye Israelites, was not
to burne, or cover the rowes of bricks as we use, but being chopp'd
small to mingle with the clay, which being dried In the sun (for they
bake not in the furnaces) would else cleave asunder ; that in Persia are
yet a race of Igniculi who worship the sun and the fire as Gods ; that
ye women of Georgia and Mingrelia were universaly, and without any
compare, the most beautifull creatures for shape, features, and figure,
in the world, and therefore the Grand Seignior and Bashaws had had
from thence most of their wives and concubines ; that there had, within
these hundred yeares ben Amazons amongst them, that is to say, a sort
or race of valiant women, given to warr; that Persia was extremely
fertile ; he spoke also of Japan and China, and of the many greate er
rors of our late geographers, as we suggested matter for discourse. We
then took our leaves, failing of seeing his papers, but it was told us by
others that indeede he durst not open or shew them till he had first
shewed them to the French King, but of this he himselfe said nothing.
2 Sept. I had an opportunity, his Ma* being still at Windsor, of
seeing his private library at White-hall, at my full ease. I went with
expectation of finding some curiosities, but though there were about
1000 volumes, there were few of importance which I had not perus'd
before. They consisted chiefly of such books as had from time to time

524 [1680.
Iben dedicated or presented to him ; a few Histories, some Travels and
French bookes, aboundance of mapps and sea charts, entertainments
and pomps, buildings and pieces relating to the navy, some mathema
tical instruments ; but what was most rare were 3 or 4 Romish brevia
ries, with a great deal of miniature and monkish painting and gilding,
one of which is most exquisitely don, both as to the figures, grotesques,
and compartments, to the utmost of that curious art. There is another
in which I find written by the hand of K. Hen. VII. his giving it to his
deare daughter Margaret, afterwards Queene of Scots, in wch he de
sires her to pray for his soule, subscribing his name at length. There
is also ye processe of the philosophers great elixer, represented in divers
pieces of excellent miniature, but the discourse is in High Dutch, a
MS. There is another MS. in 4to. of above 300 yeares old in French,,
being an institution of physic, and in the botanical part the plants are
curiously painted in miniature : also a folio MS. of good thicknesse,
being the severall exercises, as Theames, Orations, Translations, &c. of
K. Edward VI. all written and subscrib'd by his owne hand, and with
his name very legible, and divers of the Greeke interleav'd and cor
rected after the manner of schole boys exercises, and that exceedingly
well and proper, with some epistles to his preceptor, which shew
that young Prince to have ben extraordinarily advanc'd in learning,
and as Cardan, who had ben in England affirm'd, stupendiously
knowing for his age. There is likewise his Journal *, no lesse testifying
his early ripeness and care about the affaires of state.
There are besides many pompous volumes, some emboss'd with gold,
and intaglias on achats, medailes, &c. I spent 3 or 4 intire daies,
lock'd up and alone, among these bookes and curiosities. In the rest
of the private lodgings contiguous to this, are divers of the best pictures
of the greate masters, Raphael, Titian, &c. and, in my esteeme, above
all, the Noli me tangere of our blessed Saviour to Mary Magdalen after
his Resurrection, of Hans Holbein, than which I never saw so much
reverence and kind of heavenly astonishment express'd in a picture.

* A note is added, that Dr. Burnet has transcribed many remarks out of this in his History of
the Reformation.

1680.] 525
There are also divers curious clocks, watches, and pendules of exqui
site work, and other curiosities. An ancient woman, who made these
lodgings cleane, and had all ye keys, let me in at pleasure for a small
reward, by meanes of a friend.
6 Sept. I din'd with Sir Stephen Fox, now one of ye Lords Com
missioners of ye Treasury. This gentleman came first a poore boy from
the quire of Salisbury, then was taken notice of by Bp. Duppa, and
afterwards waited on my Lord Percy (brother to Algernon E. of Nor
thumberland), who procur'd for him an inferior place amongst the
Clerks of the Kitchen and Greene Cloth side, where he was found so
humble, diligent, industrious, and prudent in his behaviour, that his
Ma,y being in exile, and Mr. Fox waiting, both the King and Lords
about him frequently employ'd him about their affaires ; trusted him
both with receiving and paying the little mony they had. Returning
with his Ma* to England, after greate wants and greate sufferings, his
Ma* found him so honest and industrious, and withall so capable and
ready, that being advanc'd from Clerk of yc Kitchen to that of ye
Greene- Cloth , he procur'd to be Paymaster to the whole Army, and
by his dexterity and punctual dealing he obtain'd such credit among
the banquers, that he was in a short time able to borrow vast sums of
them upon any exigence. The continual turning thus of mony, and
the souldiers moderate allowance to him for his keeping touch with
them, did so inrich him, that he is believ'd to be worth at least 200,000/.
honestly gotten and unenvled, which is next to a miracle. With all
this he continues as humble and ready to do a courtesie as ever he was.
He is generous, and lives very honorably, of a sweete nature, well
spoken, well bred, and is so highly in his Ma*s esteeme, and so usefull,
that being long since made a knight, he is also advanc'd to be one of
ye Lords Commissrs of ye Treasurie, and has ye revertion of the Cofferer's
place after Harry Brouncker. He has married his eldest daughter to
my Lord Cornwallis, and gave her 12,000 pounds, and restored that
intangl'd family besides. He match'd his eldest son to Mrs. Trollop,
who brings with her (besides a greate sum) neere, if not altogether
2000/. per ann. Sr Stephen's Lady (an excellent woman) is sister to
Mr. Whittle, one of the King's chirurgeons. In a word, never was

526 [1680.
man more fortunate than Sir Stephen ; he is an handsom person, ver-
tuous, and very religious.
23 Sept. Came to my house some German strangers and Sigr Pietro
a, famous musitian, who had ben long in Sweden in Queene Christina's
Court ; he sung admirably to a guitar, and had a perfect good tenor
and base, and had set to Italian composure many of Abraham Cowley's
pieces, which shew'd extremely well. He told me that in Sweden the
heate in some part of summer was as excessive as ye cold in winter ;
so cold, he affirm'd, that the streetes of all the townes are desolate, no
creatures stirring in them for many moneths, all the inhabitants retir
ing to their stoves. He spake high things of that romantic Queene's
learning and skill in languages, the majestie of her behaviour, her ex
ceeding wit, and that the histories she had read of other countries, es
pecialy of Italy and Rome, had made her despise her owne. That the
real occasion of her resigning her Crowne was the Noblemen's impor
tuning her to marrie, and the promise which the Pope had made her of
procuring her to be Queene of Naples, which also caus'd her to change
her religion ; but she was cheated by his crafty Holiness *, working on
her ambition ; that the reason of her killing her Secretary at Fontaine
Beleauef was his revealing that intrigue with the Pope. But after
all this I rather believe it was her mad prodigality and extreame vanity,
which had consum'd those vast treasures the greate Adolphus, her
father, had brought out of Germany during his [campaigns] there and
wonderfull successes ; and that if she had not voluntarily resign'd, as
foreseeing the event, the Estates of her Kingdom would have compell'd
her to do so.
30 Oct. I went to London to be private, my birthday being ye next
day, and I now ariv'd at my sixtieth year, on which I began a more
solemn survey of my whole life, in order to the making and confirming
my peace with God, by an accurate scrutinie of all my actions past, as
far as I was able to call them to mind. How difficult and uncertaine,
yet how necessary a work ! The Lord be mercifull to me, and accept

* Pope Alexander VII. of the family of Chighi at Sienna.
t So called and written at that time.

i68o.] 527
me ! Who can tell how oft he offendeth ? Teach me therefore so to
number my daies that I may apply my heart to wisdom, and make my
calling and election sure. Amen, Lord Jesus !
31. I spent this whole day in exercises. A stranger preach'd at
White-hall on 16 Luke 30, 31. * I then went to St. Martin's, where
ye Bp. of St. Asaph preach'd on 1 Peter 3, 15. ; ye holy communion
follow'd, at which I participated, humbly imploring God's assistance
in the greate worke I was entering into. In ye afternoone I heard
Dr. Sprat at St. Margaret's on 17 Acts 11.
I began and spent the whole weeke in examining my life, begging
pardon for my faults, assistance and blessing for the future, that I
might in some sort be prepar'd for the time that now drew neere, and
not have the greate work to begin when one can worke no longer. The
Lord Jesus help and assist me ! I therefore stirr'd little abroad till the
5 Novr, when I heard Dr. Tenison, the now Vicar of St. Martin's j
Dr. Lloyd, the former incumbent, being made Bishop of St. Asaph.
7- I participated of ye blessed Communion, finishing and confirming
my resolutions of giving myselfe up more intirely to God, to whom I
had now most solemnly devoted the rest of my poore remainder of life
in this world ; the Lord enabling me, who am an unprofitable servant,
a miserable sinner, yet depending on his infinite goodnesse and mercy,
accepting my endeavours.
15. Came to dine with us Sir Richard Anderson, his lady, sonn,
and wife, sister to my daughter in law.
30 Nov. The anniversary election at the Royall Society, brought me
to London, where was chosen President that excellent person and greate
philosopher Mr. Robert Boyle, who indeede ought to have ben the very
first ; but neither his infirnntie nor his modestie could now any longer
excuse him. I desired I might for this yeare be left out of the Council,
by reason my dwelling was in the country. The Society according to
costome dined together.
This signal day begun the trial (at which I was present) of my Lord
Viscount Stafford, for conspiring the death of the King ; second sonn
* This was probably to the King's household early in the morning.

528 [1-680.
to my Lord Thomas Howard Earle of Arundel and Surry, Earle Ma-
rishall of England and grandfather to the present Duke of Norfolk,
whom I so well knew, and from which excellent person I received so
many favours. It was likewise his birth-day. The trial was in West
minster Hall, before the King, Lords, and Commons, just in the same
manner as 40 yeares past, the greate and wise Earle of Strafford (there
being but one letter differing their names) receiv'd his trial for pretended
ill government in Ireland, in the very same place, this Lord Stafford's
father being then High Steward. The place of sitting was now exalted
some considerable height from the paved floore of the Hall, with a stage
of boards. The throne, woolpacks for the Judges, long formes for the
Peeres, chaire for the Lord Steward, exactly ranged, as in the House
of Lords. The sides on both hands scaffolded to the very roofe for the
Members of the House of Commons. At the upper end and on the
right side of the King's state, was a box for his Ma*, and on the left
others for the greate ladyes, and over heade a gallerie for Ambassrs and
public Ministers. At the lower end or entrance was a barr, and place
for ye prisoner, the Lieut1 of the Tower of London, the axe-bearer and
guards, my Lord Stafford's two daughters, the Marchionesse of Win
chester being one ; there was likewise a box for my Lord to retire into.
At the right hand, in another box, somewhat higher, stood the Wit
nesses ; at the left the Managers, in the name of the Commons of Eng
land, viz. Serjeant Maynard (the greate lawyer, the same who prose
cuted the cause against the Earle of Strafford 40 yeares before, being
now neere 80 yeares of age) Sr William Jones, late Attorney General,
Sr Francis Winnington a famous pleader, and Mr. Treby now Recorder
of London, not appearing in their gownes as lawyers, but in their
cloakes and swords as representing the Commons of England : to these
were joined Mr. Hampden, Mr. Sacheverell, Mr. Poule, Col. Titus,
Sr Tho. Lee, all gentlemen of quality, and noted parliamentary men.
The two first dayes, in which were read the commission and impeach
ment, were but a tedious entrance into matter of fact, at which I was but
little present. But on Thursday I was commodiously seated amongst
the Commons, when the witnesses were sworn and examined. The
principal witnesses were Mr. Oates (who call'd himselfe Dr.) Mr,

i68o.] 529
Dugdale, and Turberville. Oates swore that he deliver'd a commission
to Vise* Stafford from the Pope, to be Paymaster Generall to an army
intended to be rais'd. Dugdale, that being at Lord Aston's, the pri
soner dealt with him plainly to murder his Majestie : and Turberville,
that at Paris he also propos'd the same to him.
3. The depositions of my Lord's witnesses were taken, to invalidate
the King's witnesses; they were very slight persons, but, being 15 or
16, they tooke up all that day, and in truth they rather did my Lord
injury than service.
4. Came other witnesses of the Commons to corroborate the King's,
some being Peeres, some Commons, with others of good qualitie, who
tooke off all the former day's objections, and set the King's witnesses
recti in Curia.
6. Sir Wm Jones summ'd up the evidence ; to him succeeded all the
rest of the Managers, and then Mr. Hen. Poule made a vehement ora
tion. After this my Lord, as on all occasions, and often during the
trial, spoke in his owne defence, denying the charge altogether, and
that he had never seene Oates or Turberville at the time and manner
affirm'd : in truth, their testimonie did little weigh with me; Dugdale's
onely seem'd to press hardest, to which my Lord spake a greate while,
but confusedly, without any method. One thing my Lord said as to
Oates,' which I confesse did exceedingly affect me ; that a person who
during his depositions should so vauntingly brag that tho' he went over
to the Church of Rome, yet he was never a Papist, nor of their religion,
all the time that he seem'd to apostatize from the Protestant, but only
as a spie ; tho' he confess'd he tooke their sacrament, worshipp'd
images, went thro' all their oathes and discipline of their proselytes,
swearing secrecy and to be faithfull, but with intent to come over againe
and betray them ; that such an hypocrite, that had so deeply prevari
cated as even to turne Idolater (for so we of the Church of England
term'd it), attesting God so solemnly that he was intirely theirs and
devoted to their interest, and consequently (as he pretended) trusted ;
I say that the witnesse of such a proflygate wretch should be admitted
against the life of a Peere, this my Lord look'd upon as a monstrous
thing, and such as must needs redound to the dishonour of our Reli-
VOL. i. 3 Y

530 [i68o.
gion and Nation. And verily I am of his Lordship's opinion ; such a
man's testimonle should not be taken against the life of a dog. But
the merit of something material which he discover'd against Coleman,
put him in such esteeme with the Parliament, that now, I fancy, he
stuck at nothing, and thought every body was to take what he said
for Gospel. The consideration of this and some other circumstances
began to stagger me ; particularly how 'twas possible that one who
went among the Papists on such a designe, and pretended to be in
trusted with so many letters and commissions from the Pope and the
party, nay and deliver'd them to so many greate persons, should not
reserve one of them to shew, nor so much as one copy of any commis
sion, which he who had such dexterity in opening letters might cer
tainly have done, to the undeniable conviction of those whom he ac-
cus'd : but, as I said, he gain'd credit on Coleman ; but as to others
whom he so madly flew upon, I am little inclin'd to believe his testi
mony, he being so slight a person, so passionate, ill bred, and of such
impudent behaviour ; nor is it likely that such piercing politicians as the
Jesuits should trust him with so high and so dangerous seacrets.
7- On Tuesday I was againe at the trial, when judgment was de
manded^; and after my Lord had spoken what he Could in denying the
fact, the Managers answering the objections, the Peeres adjourned to
their house, and within two houres returned againe. There was in the
meane time this question put to the Judges, " whether there being but
one witnesse to any single crime or act, It could amount to convict a
man of treason." They gave an unanimous opinion that in case of trea
son they all were overt acts, for tho' no man should be condemn'd by one
witnesse for any one a*ct, yet for several acts to the same Intent, it was
valid, which was my Lord's case. This being past and the Peeres in
their seates againe, the Lord Chancellor Finch (this day the Lord High
Steward) removing to the woolsack next his Ma*s state, after sum
moning the Lieutenant of the Tower to bring forth his prisoner, and
proclamation made for silence, demanded of every peer (who were in all
86) whether William Lord Viscount Stafford were guilty of the treason
laid to his charge, or not guilty. Then the Peere spoken to, standing

i68o. J 531
up, and laying his right hand on his breast, said Guilty, or Not guilty,
upon my honour, and then sate down, the Lord Steward noting their
suffrages as they answered upon a paper : when all had done, the
number of Not guilty being but 31, the Guilty 55 : and then after pro
clamation for silence againe, the Lord Steward directing his speech to
the prisoner, against whom the axe was turned edgeways, and not be
fore, in aggravation of his crime, he being ennobled by the King's fa
ther, and since received many favours from his present Majesty, (after
enlarging on his offence) deploring first his own unhappinesse that he
who had never condemn'd any man before, should now be necessitated
to begin with him ; he then pronounc'd sentence of death by hanging,
drawing, and quartering, according to forme, with greate solemnity
and dreadfull gravity, and after a short pause, told the prisoner that he
believ'd the Lords would intercede for the omission of some circum
stances of his sentence, beheading only excepted ; and then breaking
his white staff, the Court was dissolved. My Lord Stafford during all
this latter part spake but little, and only gave their Lordships thanks
after the sentence was pronounced; and indeede behaved himselfe mo
destly and as became him.
It was observ'd that all his owne relations of his name and family
condemn'd him, except his nephew the Earle of Arundel, son to the
Duke of Norfolk. , And it must be acknowledg'd that yfc whole trial
was carried on with exceeding gravity : so stately and august an ap
pearance I had never seene before ; for besides the innumerable specta
tors of gentlemen and forraine ministers, who saw and heard all the
proceedings, the prisoner had the. consciences of all the Commons of
England for his accusers, and all the Peeres to be his Judges and Jury.
He had likewise the assistance of what Counsel he would, to direct
him in his plea, who stood by him. And yet I can hardly think that
a person of his age and experience should engage men whom he never
saw before (and one of them that came to visite him as a stranger at
Paris) point blanq to murder the King : God onely who searches hearts
can discover the truth. Lord Stafford was not a man belov'd, especialy
of his own family.

532 [1681.
12. This evening looking out of my chamber window towards the
west, I saw a meteor of an obscure bright colour, very much in shape
like the blade of a sword, the rest of the skie very serene and cleare.
What this may portend God onely knows ; but such another pheno
menon I remember to have seene in 1640, aboute the Triall of the greate
Earle of Strafford, preceeding our bloudy Rebellion. I pray God
avert his judgements. We have had of late severall comets, which tho'
I believe appeare from naturall causes, and of themselves operate not,
yet I cannot despise them. They may be warnings from God, as they
commonly are forerunners of his animadversions. After many daies and
nights of snow, clowdy and dark weather, the comet was very much
wasted. 17 Dec. My daughter in law was brought to bed of a sonn,
christen'd Richard.
22. A solemn publicq fast that God would prevent all Popish plotts,
avert his judgements, and give a blessing to ye proceedings of Parlia
ment now assembl'd, and which struck at the succession of the Duke
of York. 29. The Viscount Stafford was beheaded on Tower-hill.
1681, 10 Feb. 1 was at the wedding of my nephew John Evelyn of
Wotton, married by the Bp. of Rochester at Westminster in Henry
VII. Chapell, to the daughter and heyre of Mr. Eversfield of Sussex,
her portion ^.8000. The solemnity was. kept with a few friends
onely at Lady Beckford's, the lady's mother.
8 Mar. Visited and din'd at ye Earle of Essex's, with whom I spent
most of the afternoone alone. Thence to my (yet living) godmother
and kinswoman Mrs. Keightley, sister to Sr Tho. Evelyn and niece to
my father, being now 86 yeares of age, sprightly, and in perfect health,
her eyes serving her as well as ever, and of a comely countenance, that
one would not suppose her above 50.
27- The Parliament now conven'd at Oxford. Greate expectation
of his Royal Highness's case as to the succession, against which the
House was set.
An extraordinary sharp cold spring, not yet a leafe on ye trees, frost-
and snow lying : whilst the whole nation was in the greatest ferment.

1681.] 533
11 April. I tooke my leave of Dr. Lloyd (now Bishop of St.
Asaph) at his house in Leicester Fields, now going to reside in his
diocese. 12. I din'd at Mr. Brisbane's, Secretary to ye Admiralty, a learned
and industrious person, whither came Dr. Burnet to thank me for
some papers I had contributed towards his excellent History of the
Reformation. 26. I din'd at Don Pietro Ronqulllo's, the Spanish Ambassador, at
Wild House*, who us'd me with extraordinary civility. The dinner was
plentiful, halfe after the Spanish, halfe after the English way. After
dinner he led me Into his bed-chamber, where we fell into a long dis
course concerning religion. Tho' he was a learned man in politics,
and an advocate, he was very Ignorant In religion, and unable to
defend any point of controyersy ; he was however far from being fierce.
At parting he earnestly wish'd me to apply humbly to the Blessed Vir
gin to direct me, assuring me that he had known divers who had ben
averse from the Roman Catholic Religion, wonderfully enlighten'd and
convinc'd by her intercession. He importun'd me to come and visite
him often.
29 April. But one showre of rain all this month.
5 May. Came to dine with me Sr Wm Fermor of Northampton
shire, and Sr Christr Wren, his Majesty's Architect and Surveyor, now
building the Cathedral of St. Paul, and the Columne in memorie of the
Citty's conflagration, and was in hand with the building of 50 Parish
Churches. A wonderful genius had this incomparable person.
16 May. Came my Lady Sunderland to desire that I would propose
a match to Sr Stephen Fox for her sonn, Lord Spencer, to marry Mrs.
Jane, Sir Stephen's daughter. I excus'd myself all I was able, for the
truth. is, I was afraid he would prove an extravagant man: for though a
youth of extraordinary parts, and had an excellent education to render
him a worthy man, yet his early inclinations to extravagance made me
apprehensive that I should not serve Sir Stephen by proposing it, like a
friend ; this being now his only daughter, well bred, and likely to
* Near Drury Lane.

534 [168 1.
receive a large share of her father's opulence. Lord Sunderland was
much sunke in his estate by gaming and other prodigalities, and was
now no longer Secretary of State, having fallen into displeasure of
the King for siding with the Commons about the Succession ; but
which I am assur'd he did not do out of his owne inclination, or for ye
preservation of the Protestant religion, but by mistaking ye ability of
the party to carry it. However, so earnest and importunate was the
Countesse, that I did mention it to Sr Stephen, who said that it was
too great an honour, that his daughter was very young as well as my
Lord, and he was resolved never to marry her without the parties
mutual liking, with other objections which I neither would nor could
contradict. He desir'd me to expresse to the Countesse the greate
sense he had of ye honour don him, that his daughter and her sonn
were too young, that he would do nothing without her liking, which
he did not think her capable of expressing judiciously till she was 16
or 17 yeares of age, of which she now wanted 4 yeares, and that I
would put it off as civilly as I could.
20 May. Our new curate preach'd, a pretty hopefull young man,
yet somewhat raw, newly come from colledge, full of Latine sentences,
which in time will weare off. He read prayers very well.
25. There came to visite me Sir William Walter and Sir John
Elowes; and the next day the Earle of Kildare, a young gent, related to
my wife, and other company. There had scarce fallen any raine since
Christmas. 2 June. I went to Hampton Court, when the Surrey gentlemen
presented their addresses to his Maf, whose hand I kiss'd, introduc'd
by the Duke of Albemarle.
12. It still continu'd so great a drought as had never ben known
in England, and it was said to be universal.
14 Aug. No sermon this afternoone, wch I think did not happen
twice in this parish these 30 years ; so gracious has God ben to it, and
indeede to the whole nation: God grant that we abuse not this greate
priviledge, either by our wanton nesse, schisme, or unfaithfulnesse,
under such meanes as he has not favoured any other nation under
heaven besides.

1681.] 535
23. I went to Wotton, and on the following day was invited to
Mr. Denzil Onslow'^ at his seate at Purford, where was much com
pany and such an extraordinary feast as I had hardly seene at any
country gentleman's table. What made it more remarkable was, that
there was not any thing save what his estate about it did afford : as
venison, rabbits, hares, pheasants, partridges, pigeons, quails, poultrie,
all sortes of fowle in season from his owne decov neere his house and
all sorts of fresh fish. After dinner we went to see sport at the decoy,
where I never saw so many herons.
The seate stands on a flat, the ground pasture, rarely water'd, and
exceedingly improv'd since Mr. Onslow bought it of Sr Rob' Parkhurst,
who spent a faire estate. The house is timber, but commodious, and
with one ample dining-roome, the hall adorn'd with paintings of fowle
and huntings, &c. the work of Mr. Barlow, who is excellent in this
kind from the life*.
30. From Wotton I went to see Mr. Hussey f (at Sutton in Shere),
who has a very pretty seate well water'd, neere my brother's. He is
the neatest husband for curious ordering his domestic and field accom
modations, and what pertains to husbandry, that I have ever seene, as
to his granaries, tacklings, tooles, and utensllls, ploughs, carts, stables,
wood-piles, wood-house, even to hen-roosts and hog-troughs. Me-
thought I saw old Cato or Varro in him ; all substantial, all in exact
order. The sole inconvenience he lies under, is the greate quantity of
sand which the streame brings along with it, and fills his canals and
receptacles for fish too soone. The rest of my time of stay at Wotton
was spent in walking about the grounds and goodly woods, where I
have in my youth so often entertain'd my solitude : and so on the 2d of
Sept. I once more returned to my home.
6 Sept. Died my pretty grand-child, and was interr'd on the 8th
[at Deptford.]
14. Din'd with Sir Stephen Fox, who propos'd to me ye purchasing
of Chelsey College, which his Ma* had some time since given to our

* This house has been pulled down many years. The estate is the property of the Earl of
Onslow. 1816. + P. 431.

536 I*6**-
Society, and would now purchase it againe. to build an Hospital or
Infirmary for Souldiers there, in which he desired my assistance as one
of the Council of the R. Society.
15. I had another opportunity of visiting his Ma*s private Library
at White-hall.
To Sir Sam. Moreland's, to see his house and mechanics*.
17. 1 went with Mons1 Faubert about taking ye Countesse of Bris
tol's house for an academie, he being lately come from Paris for his
religion, and resolving to settle heref.
23. I went to see Sr Tho. Bond's fine house and garden at Peckham.
2 Oct. I went to Camerwell, where that good man Dr. Par (late
chaplain to Abp. Usher) ,preach'd on 16 Acts, 30.
11. I went to Fulham to visit the Bishop of London, in whose
garden I first saw the Sedum arborescens in flower, which was exceed
ingly beautifull.
5 Nov. Dr. Hooper preach'd on 12 Mark, 16, 17, before the King,
of the usurpation of the Church of Rome. This is one of yc first rank
of pulpit men in the nation.
15. I din'd with ye Earle of Essex, who after dinner in his study,
where we were alone, related to me how much he had ben scandaliz'd
and injur'd in the report of his being privy to the marriage of his Lady's
niece, ye rich young widow of the late Lord Ogle, sole daughter of ye
E. of Northumberland ; shewing me a letter of Mr. Thynn's excusing
himself for not communicating his marriage to his Lordship. He
acquainted me also with the whole story of that unfortunate lady bejng
betray'd by her grandmother the Countesse of Northumberland, and
Col. Bret, for money ; and that tho', upon the importunity of the
Duke of Monmouth, he had deliver'd to the grandmother a particular
* In Lambeth, at what is now Vauxhall, where Sir Sam. Moreland had fitted up a house, and
built a large room, which he furnished in a sumptuous manner, and constructed in his garden
some fountains. He was much in favour with the King for services he had rendered to him whilst
abroad, and this is probably the place which it is said the King and his Ladies used to cross the
water to go to. Hist. Surrey, III. 489, 490, 491.— See further particulars of him in p. 407, and
vol. II. p. 49 ; and some of his inventions noticed in the present volume, pp. 444, 491, 552.
f He had a riding house between Swallow-street and King-street ; the passage by it between
those streets, is still (or lately was) called by his name (1816.)

1681.] 537
of the jointure which Mr. Thynn pretended he would settle ou the
lady, yet he totally discourag'd ye proceeding, as by no means a com
petent match for one that both by birth and fortune might have pre
tended to the greatest prince in Christendom ; that he also propos'd
the Earle of Kingston, or the Lord Cranburn, but was by no means
for Mr. Thynn.
19. I din'd with my worthy friend Mr. Erskin, Mar of the Charter
house, uncle to the Dutchesse of Monmouth ; a wise and learned gen
tleman, fitter to have ben a privy councillor and minister of state than
to have been laied aside.
24. I was at yL audience of the Russia Ambassador before both their
Majesties in the Banquetting-house. The presents were carried before
him, held up by his followers in two ranks before the King's State, and
consisted of tapissry (one suite of which was doubtless brought from
France as being of that fabrick, the Ambass1 having pass'd thro' that
Kingdom as he came out of Spain), a large Persian carpet, furs of sable
and ermine, &c. but nothing was so splendid and exotic as the Am
bassador who came soone after the King's Restauration*. This present
Ambassr was exceedingly offended that his coach was not permitted to
come into the Court, till being told that no King's Ambassador did, he
was pacified, yet requiring an attestation of it under the hand of Sir
Cha. Cotterell, the Master of the Ceremonies ; being, it seems, afraid
he should offend his Master if he omitted the least punctilio. 'Twas
reported he condemned his sonn to loose his head for shaving off his
beard, and putting himselfe in ye French mode at Paris, and that he
would have executed it had not the French King interceded — but qu.
of this.
30 Nov. Sr Christ" Wren chosen President [of yu Royal Society],
Mr. Austine, Secretary, with Dr. Plot, the ingenious author of the
History of Oxfordshire. There was a most illustrious appearance.
1682. 11 Jan. I saw ye audience of the Morocco Ambassador f,
his retinue not numerous. He was receiv'd in the Banquetting-house,
both their Majesties being present. He came up to the Throne with-
* See p. 355.
f Named Hamet. There are different prints of him ; one of which is a large and fine one by
Robert.
VOL. I. 3 z

538 [168*.
out making any sort of reverence, not bowing his head or body. He
spake by a renegado Englishman, for whose safe return there was a
promise. They were all clad in the Moorish hablte, cassocks of co
lour'd cloth, or silk, with buttons and loopes, over this an alhaga, or
white woollen mantle, so large as to wrap both head and body, a shash
or small turban, naked legg'd and arm'd, but with leather socks like
the Turks, rich scymeter, and large calico sleeved shirts. The Am
bass1, had a string of pearls oddly woven in his turban. I fancy the
old- Roman habite was little different as to the mantle and naked limbs.
The Ambass' was an handsome person, well featur'd, of a wise looke,
subtill, and extreamely civile. Their presents were lions and estridges
(ostriches), &c. ; their errand about a peace at Tangier. But the con
course and tumult of the people was intolerable, so as the officers could
keepe no order, which these strangers were astonish'd at at first,' there
being nothing so regular, exact, and perform'd with such silence, as
is on all these public occasions of their country, and indeede over all
the Turkish dominions. ;
14. Din'd at the Bp. of Rochester's, at the Abby, it being his
marriage day, after twenty-four yeares. He related to me how he had
ben treated by Sr William Temple, foreseeing that he might be a dele
gate in the concerne of my Lady Ogle, now likely to come In contro
versy upon her marriage with Mr. Thynn ; also how earnestly the late
E. of Danby, Lord Treasurer, sought his friendship, and what plaine
and sincere advice he gave him from time to time about his miscar
riages and partialities ; particularly his outing Sr John Duncomb from
being Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Sl" Ste. Fox, above all, from
Paymaster of ye* Armie. The Treasurer's excuse and reason was, that
Fox's credit was so over-greate with the bankers and monied men, that
he could procure none but by his meanes ; " for that reason," replied
ye Bishop, " I would have made him my friend, Sir Stephen being a
person both honest and of credit." He told him likewise of his state-
liness and difficulty of accesse, and severall other miscarriages, and
which indeede made him hated.
24. To the Royall Society, where at the Council we pass'd a new
law for the more accurate consideration of candidates, as whether they

1682.] 539
would really be useful ; also concerning the honorary members, that
none should be admitted but by diploma.
This evening I was at the entertainement of the Morocco Ambas
sador at the Dutchesse of Portsmouth's glorious apartments at White r
hall, where was a greate banquet of sweetemeates and musiq, but at
which both the Ambassf and his retinue behav'd themselves with ex
traordinary moderation and modesty, tho' plac'd about a long table, a
lady betweene two moores, and amongst these were the King's natural
children, viz. Lady Lichfield and Sussex, the Dutchess of Portsmouth,
Nelly, ojc. concubines, and cattell of that sort, as splendid as Jewells
and excesse of bravery could make them. The Moores neither ad
miring nor seeming to regard any thing, furniture or the like, with
any earnestnesse, and but decently tasting of the banquet. They
dranke a little milk and water, but not a drop of wine ; they also
dranke of a sorbet and jacolatt; did not looke about, or stare on ye
ladies, or expresse the least surprize, but with a courtly negligence in
pace, countenance, and whole behaviour, answering only to such ques
tions as were ask'd with a greate deale of wit and gallantrie, and so
gravely tooke leave with this compliment, That God would blesse the
Dutchess of Portsmouth and ye Prince her sonn, meaning the little
Duke of Richmond. The King, came in at the latter end, just as the
Ambassr was. going away. In this manner was this slave (for he was
no more at home) entertain'd by most of the nobility In towne, and
went often to Hide Park on horseback, where he and his retinue
shew'd their extraordinary activity in horsemanship, and flinging and
catching their launces at full speede; they rid very short, and could
stand upright at full speede, managing their spears with incredible
agility. He went sometimes to ye theaters, where upon any foolish or
fantastical action, he could not forbear laughing, but he endeavour'd
to hide it with extraordinary modesty and gravity. In a word, the
Russian Ambassador, still at Court, behav'd himselfe like a clowne,
compar'd to this civil heathen.
27. This evening Sir Ste. Fox acquainted me againe with his
Ma*s resolution of proceeding in the erection of a Royal Hospital for
emerited souldiers on that spot of ground which the Royal Society had

540 [1682.
sold to his Ma* for 1300/. and that he would settle 5000/. per ann. on
it, and build to yc value of 20,000/. for ye reliefe and reception of 4
companies, viz. 400 men, 'to be as in a colledge or monastrie. I was
therefore desir'd by Sir Stephen (who had not onely the whole ma
naging of this, but was, as I perceiv'd, himselfe to be a grand bene
factor, as well it became him who had gotten so vast an estate by the
souldiers) to assist him, and consult what method to cast it in, as to
the government. So in his study we arranged the governor, chaplaine,
steward, housekeeper, chirurgeon, cook, butler, gardener, porter, and
other officers, with their several salaries and entertainments. I would
needes have a Library, and mention'd several bookes, since some soul
diers might possibly be studious when they were at leisure to recollect.
Thus we made the first calculations, and set downe our thoughts to be
consider'd and digested better, to shew his Ma* and the Archbishop.
He also engag'd me to consider of what laws and orders were fit for ye
government, which was to be in every respect as strict as in any reli
gious convent.
After supper came in the famous treble Mr. Abel, newly return'd
from Italy ; I never heard a more excellent voice ; one would have
sworn it had ben a woman's, it was so high, and so well and skillfully
manag'd, being accompanied by Signor Francesco on the harpsichord.
28. Mr. Pepys, late Secretary to the Admiralty, shew'd me a
large folio containing the whole mechanic part and art of building royal
ships and men of warr, made by Sr Anth. Deane, being so accurate a
piece from the very keele to ye lead block, rigging, gunns, victualling,
manning, and even to every individual pin and naile, in a method so
astonishing and curious, with the draught, both geometrical and in
perspective, and severall sections, that I do not think the world can
shew the like. I esteeme this booke as an extraordinary Jewell.
7 Feb. My daughter Mary began to learn musick of Sign1- Bartho-
lomeo, and dauncing of Monsr Isaac, reputed the best masters.
Having had several violent fits of an ague, recourse was had to
bathing my legs in milk up to ye knees, made as hot as 1 could endure
it; and sitting so in it in a deepe churn or vessell cover'd with blankets,
and drinking carduus posset, then going to bed and sweating, 1 not

1682.] 541
onely miss'd that expected fit, but had no more, only continued weake,
that I could not go to church 'till Ash Wednesday, which I had not
missed, I think, so long in twenty yeares, so gracious had God beene
to me.
After this warning and admonition I now began to looke over and
methodize all my writings, accompts, letters, papers; inventoried the
goods, and other articles of the house, and -put things into the best
order I. could, and made my will ; that now growing in yeares, I might
have none of these secular things and concerns to distract me when it
should please Almighty God to call me from this transitory life. With
this I prepar'd some special meditations and devotions for the time of
sicknesse. The Lord Jesus grant them to be salutary for my poore
soul in that day, that I may obtain mercy and acceptance !
1 March. My second grandchild was born, and christen'd the next
day by our Viccar at Says Court, by yc name of John *. I beseeche
God to bless him.
2. Ash Wednesday. I went to church ; our Viccar preached on
Proverbs, shewing what care and vigilance was required for the keep
ing of the heart upright. The holy Communion followed, on which I
gave God thanks for his gracious dealing wh me in my late sicknesse,
and affording me this blessed opportunity of praising him in ye Con
gregation, and receiving the cup of salvation with new and serious
resolutions. Came to see and congratulate my recovery, Sr John Lowther, Mr.
Herbert, Mr. Pepys, Sir Anth: Deane, and Mr. Hill.
10. This day was executed Coll. Vrats, and some of his accomplices,
for the execrable murder of Mr. Thynn f, set on by the principal Kon-
nigsmark ; he went to execution like an undaunted hero, as one that
had done a friendly office for that base coward C. Koningsmark, who
had hopes to marry his widow the rich Lady Ogle, and was acquitted
by a corrupt jury, and so got away. Vrats told a friend of mine who

* Who became his successor, and was created a baronet in 1713.
t He lies buried in Westminster Abbey ; the manner of his death being represented on his
monument.

542 £1682.
accompanied him to ye gallows, and gave him some advice, thai he
did not value dying of a rush, and hop'd and believ'd God would deale
with him like a gentleman. Never man went so unconcern'd for his
sad fate.
24. I went to see the corpse of that obstinate creature Coll. Vrats,
ve King permitting that his body should be transported to his owne
country, he being of a good family, and one of the first embalmed by
a particular art invented by one Wm Russell, a coffin maker, which
preserv'd the body without disbowelling, or to appearance using any
bituminous matter. The flesh was florid, soft, and full, as if the per
son were onely sleeping. He had now ben dead neere 15 daies, and
lay expos'd in a very rich coffin lin'd with lead, too magnificent for so
daring and horrid a murderer.
At ye meeting of R. Society were exhibited some pieces of amber
sent by yc Duke of Brandenburg, in one of wch was a spider, in another
a gnat, both very intire. There was a discourse of ye tingeing of glass,
especially with red, and ye difficulty of finding any red colour effectual
to penetrate glass, among ye glass-painters ; that ye most diaphonous,
as blue, yellow, &c. did not enter into the substance of what was
ordinarily painted, more than very shallow, unless incorporated in the
mettal itselfe, other reds and whites not at all beyond ye superficies.
5 April. To ye R. Society, where at a Council was regulated what
collections should be published monthly, as formerly the transactions,
which had of late ben discontinu'd, but were now much call'd for by
the curious abroad and at home.
12. I went this afternoone with severall of ye Royal Society to a
supper wcb was all dress'd, both fish and flesh, in MorPapin's Digestors,
by which the hardest bones of beefe itselfe, and mutton, were made as
soft as cheese, without water or other liquor, and with lesse than 8
ounces of coales, producing an incredible quantity of gravy; and for
close of all a jelly made of ye bones of beef, the best for clearness and
good relish, and the most delicious that I had ever seene or tasted.
We eat pike and other fish bones, and all without impediment ; but
nothing exceeded the pigeons, which tasted just as if bak'd in a pie, all
these being stew'd in their own juice, without any addition of u'ater

16&2.] 543
save what swam about the Digester, as in balneo ; the natural juice of
all these provisions acting on the grosser substances, reduc'd the
hardest bones to tendemesse ; but it is best descanted with more par
ticulars for extracting tinctures, preserving and stewing fruite, and
saving fuel, in Dr. Papin's booke, publish'd and dedicated to our
Society, of which he is a member. He is since gone to Venice with
the late Resident here (and also a member of our Society), who carried
this excellent mechanic, philosopher, and physician, to set up a philo
sophical meeting In that citty. This philosophical supper caus'd much
mirth amongst us, and exceedingly pleas'd all y*= company. I sent a
glass of yejelley to my wife, to the reproch of all that the ladies ever
made of the best hartshorn.
April. The season was unusually wet, with rain and thunder.
25 May. I was desir'd by Sir Ste. Fox and Sr Christr Wren to
accompany them to Lambeth, with the plot and designe of the College
to be built at Chelsey, to have the Abp.'s approbation. It was a
quadrangle of 200 foote square after ye dimensions of the larger
quadrangle at Christ Church, Oxford, for the accomodation of 440
persons, with governor and officers. This was agreed on.
The Duke and Dutchesse of York were just now come to London
after his escape and shipwreck as he went by sea for Scotland.
28. At the Rolls Chapell preached the famous Dr. Burnet on 2
Peter i. 10. describing excellently well what was meant by Election ;
viz. not the effect of any irreversable decree, but so call'd because they
embraced the Gospel readily, by which they became el&ct or precious
to God. It would be very needlesse to make our calling and election
sure, were they irreversable and what the rigid Presbyterians pretend.
In the afternoone to St. Lawrence's church, a new and cheerful pile.
29. I gave notice to ye Bp. of Rochester of what Maimburg had
publish'd about the motives of the late Dutchesse of York's perversion,
in his Historie of Calvinism ; and did myselfe write to the Bp. of
Winchester * about it, who being concern'd in it, I urged him to set
forth his vindication.

* Dr. Morley.

544 [1682.
31. The Morocco Ambassador being admitted an honorary member
of the R. Society, and subscribing his name and titles in Arabic, I was
deputed by the Council to go and compliment him.
19 June. The Bantame*, or East India Ambass" (at this time we
had in London ye Russian, Moroccan, and Indian Ambassadors,) being
invited to dine at Lord Geo. Berkeley's (now Earl), I went to the
entertainment to contemplate the exotic guests. They were both very
hard-favour'd and much resembling in countenance some sort of mon
keys. We eate at two tables, the Ambassadors and interpreter by
themselves. Their garments were rich Indian silks, flower'd with gold,
viz. a close wastcoate to their knees, drawers, naked legs, and on their
heads capps made like fruit-baskets. They wore poison'd daggers at
their bosoms, the hafts carv'd with some ugly serpents or devils heads,,
exceeding keene, and of Damasco metal. They wore no sword. The
second Ambass1' (sent it seemes to succeed in case the first should die
by ye way in so tedious a journey), having ben at Mecca, wore a Turkish
or Arab shash, a little part of yc linnen hanging downe behinde his
neck, with some other difference of habite, and was halfe a Negro,
bare legg'd and naked feete, and deem'd a very holy man. They sate
cross-legg'd like Turks, and sometimes in the posture of apes and
monkeys; their nailes and teeth black as jet, and shining, which being
the effect, as to their teeth, of perpetually chewing betel to preserve
them from the tooth-ache, much raging in their country, is esteem'd
beautifull. The first Ambass1 was of an olive hue, a flat face, narrow
eyes, squat nose, and Moorish lips, no haire appear'd ; they wore
several rings of silver, gold, and copper on their fingers, which was a
token of knighthood or nobility. They were of Java Major, whose
Princes have ben turn'd Mahometans not above 50 yeares since, the
inhabitants are still pagans and idolators. They seem'd of a dull and
heavy constitution, not wondering at any thing they saw, but exceed
ingly astonished how our Law gave us propriety in our estates, and so

* The name of one was Pungearon Nia Para, of the other Kaia Nebbe, or Keay Nabee. There
are different prints of both, representing them exactly as here described. There were others in
the embassy, but probably of inferior degree.

1682.] 545
thinking we were all Kings, for they could not be made to comprehend
how subjects could possess any thing but at the pleasure of their Prince,
they being all slaves ; they were pleas'd with the notion, and admir'd
our happinesse. They were very sober, and I believe subtle in their
way. Their meate was cook'd, carried up, and they attended by several
fat slaves, who had no covering save drawers, which appear'd very
uncouth and loathsome. They eate their pilaw and other spoone-meate
without spoones, taking up their pottage in the hollow of their fingers,
and very dextrously flung it into their mouthes without spilling a drop.
17 July. Came to dine with me the Duke of Grafton and the young
Earle of Ossorie, son to my most deare deceas'd friend.
30. Went to visit our good neighbour Mr. Bohun *, whose whole
house is a cabinet of all elegancies, especially Indian ; in the hall are
contrivances of Japan skreens instead of wainscot ; and there is an
excellent pendule clock inclos'd in the curious flower-work of Mr.
Gibbons in the middle of the vestibule. The landskips of the skreens
represent the manner of living, and country of the Chinese. But
above all, his lady's cabinet is adorn'd on the fret, cieling, and chimney-
piece, with Mr. Gibbons's best carving. There are also some of
Streeter's best paintings, and many rich curiosities of gold and silver as
growing in the mines. The gardens are exactly kept, and the whole
place very agreeable and well water'd. The owners are good neigh
bours, and Mr. Bohun has also built and endow'd an hospital for eight
poor people, with a pretty chapell, and every necessarie accommodation.
1 Aug. To the Bp. of London at Fulham, to review ye additions
wch Mr. Marshall had made to his curious booke of flowers in miniature,
and collection of insects.
4. With Sr Stephen Fox, to survey the foundations of the Royal
Hospital begun at Chelsey.
9. The Council of the R. Society had it recommended to them to
be trustees and visitors, or supervisors, of the Academy which Monsr
Faubert did hope to procure to be built by subscription of worthy gen
tlemen and noblemen, for the education of youth, and to lessen the vast

* This was at Lea. See Hasted's History of Kent, I. 67.
VOL. I. 4 A

546 1*6*2.
expence the Nation is at yearly by sending children into France to be
taught military exercises. We thought good to give him all the encou
ragement our recommendation could procure.
15. Came to visite me Dr. Rogers, an acquaintance of mine long
since at Padoa. He was then Consul of the English Nation, and
student in that Universitie, where he proceeded Dr. in Physic ; pre
senting me now with the Latine oration he lately made upon the
famous Dr. Harvey's anniversarie in the Coll. of Physicians at London.
20. This night I saw another comet, neere Cancer, very bright, but
the stream not so long as the forme.
29. Supp'd at Lord Clarendon's with Lord Hyde his brother, now
the great favorite, who invited himselfe to dine at my house the Tues
day following.
30 Oct. Being my birth-day, and I now entering my greate cllmac-
terical of 63, after serious recollections of the yeares past, giving
Almighty God thanks for all his mercifull preservations and forbearance,
begging, pardon for my sinns and unworthinesse, and his blessing and
mercy on me the yeare entering, I went with my Lady Fox to survey
her building, and give some directions for yb garden at Chiswlck ; the
architect is Mr, May ; somewhat heavy and thick, and not so well
understood ; the garden much too narrow, the place without water,
neere an highway, and neere another greate house of my Lord Bur
lington, little land about it, so that I wonder at the expence; but
women will have their will.
25. I was invited to dine with Mons. Lionberg, the Swedish Resi
dent, who made a magnificent entertainment, it being the birth-day of
his King. There dined the Duke of Albemarle, D. of Hamilton, Earle
of Bathe, E. of Aylesbury, Lord Arran, Lord Castlehaven, the sonn of
him who was executed 50 veares before, and several greate persons.
I was exceeding afraide of drinking (it being a Dutch feast), but the
Duke of Albemarle being that night to waite on his Majestie, excesse
was prohibited ; and to prevent all, I stole away and left the company
as soone as we rose from table.
28. I went to the Council of the Royal Society for ye auditing the
last yeares accompt, where I was surpriz'd with a fainting fit that for

1683-] 547
a time tooke away my sight, but God being mercifull to me, I recovered
it after a short repose.
30 Nov. I was exceedingly indanger'd and Importun'd to stand ye
election [for President of ye R. S.] having so many voices, but by favor
of my friends, and regard of my remote dwelling, and now frequent
infirmities, I desir'd their suffrages might be transferr'd to Sir John
Hoskins, one of the Masters of Chancery ; a most learned virtuoso as
well as lawyer, who accordingly was elected.
7 Dec. Went to congratulate Lord Hyde (ye great favorite), newly
made Earle of Rochester *, and lately marrying his eldest daughter to
the Earle of Ossorie.
18. I sold my East India adventure of 250/. principal for 7^0/. to
the Royal Society, after I had been in that company 25 years, being
extraordinary advantageous, by the blessing of God.
23 Jan. 1683. Sr Francis North, sonn to the Lord North, and Lord
Cheife Justice, being made Lord Keeper on the death of the Earle of
Nottingham, the Lord Chancellor, I went to congratulate him. He is
a most knowing, learned, and ingenious man, and besides an excellent
person, of an ingenuous and sweete disposition, very skillfull in music,
painting, the new philosophy, and politer studies.
29. Supp'd at Sr Jos. Williamson's, where was a select companie
of our Society, Sr Wm Petty, Dr. Gale (that learned schole-master of
St. Paul's), Dr. Whistler, Mr. Hill, &c. The conversation was phi-
losophicall and cherefull, on divers considerable questions proposed; as
of the hereditary succession of the Roman Emperors ; the Pica men
tioned in the Preface to our Common Prayer, wch signifies onely the
Greeke Kalendarium. These were mixed with lighter subjects.
2 Feb. I made my court at St. James's, when I saw the Sea Charts
of Capt. Collins, which that industrious man now brought to shew the
Duke, having taken all the coastings from the mouth of the Thames,
as far as Wales, and exactly measuring every creeke, island, rock,
soundings, harbors, sands, and tides, intending next Spring to pro
ceed till he had finish'd the whole Hand, and that measured by chains

* Laurence, second son of the Chancellor.

548 1*6*3.
and other instruments. A most exact and usefull undertaking. He
affirm'd, that of all the mapps put out since; there are none extant so
true as those of Jo. Norden, who gave us the first in Qu. Elizabeth's
time ; all since him are erroneous.
12. This morning I receiv'd the newes of the death of my father-
in-law, Sir Richard Browne, Knt. and Bart, who died at my house at
Says Court this day at 10 in the morning, after he had labour'd under
the gowt and dropsie for neere 6 moneths, in the 78th yeare of his age.
The funerall was solemniz'd on the 19th at Deptford, with as much
decency as the dignity of the person, and our relation to him, requir'd.
There being invited the Bp. of Rochester, severall noblemen, knights,
and all the fraternity of the Trinity Companie, of which he had ben
Master, and others of the country. The Vicar preach'd a short but
proper discourse on 39 Psalm. 10, on the frailty of our mortal condi
tion, concluding with an ample and well-deserv'd eulogie on the defunct,
relating to his honourable birth and ancestors, education, learning in
Greeke and Latine, modem languages, travels, publiq employments,
signal loyalty, character abroad, and particularly the honor of support
ing the Church of England in its public worship during its persecution
by the late Rebells usurpation and regicide, by the suffrages of divers
Bishops, Doctors of the Church, and others,, who found such an asylum
in his house and family at Paris, that in their disputes with the Papists
(then triumphing over it as utterly lost) they us'd to argue for its visi
bility and existence from Sir R. Browne's chapell and assembly there.
Then he spake of his greate and loyal sufferings during 13 yeares exile
with his present Matie, his returne with him in the signall yeare 1660 ;
his honble employment at home, his timely recesse to recollect himselfe,
his greate age, infirmities,. and death. He gave to the Trinity Corpo
ration that land in Deptford on which are built those alms-houses for
24 widows of emerited seamen. He was borne the famous yeare of the
Gunpowder Treason, in 1605, and being the last [male] of his family,
left my wife, his onely daughter, heire. His grandfather Sir Richd
Browne was the greate instrument under the greate Earl of Leicester
(favorite to Queene Eliz.) in his government of the Netherlands. He
was Master of the Household to King James, and Cofferer ; I think

1683-] 549
was the first who regulated the compositions thro' England for the
King's household provisions, progresses *, &c. which was so high a
service, and so gratefull to the whole nation, that he had acknowledg
ments and publiq thanks sent him from all the Counties ; he died by
the rupture of a veine in a vehement speech he made about the compo
sitions in a Parliament of King James. By his mother's side he was
a Gunson, Treasurer of the Navy in yu reignes of Hen. 8, Qu. Mary,
and Qu. Eliz., and as by his large pedigree appeares, related to divers
of the English nobility. Thus ended this honorable person, after so
many changes and tossings to and fro, in the same house where he was
borne. " Lord teach us so to number our days that we may apply our
hearts to wisdom !"
•By a special clause in his will he order'd that his body should be
buried in the Church-yard under the South East window of the Chancel,
adjoining to ye burying places of his ancestors, since they came out of
Essex to Says Court, he being much offended at the novel costome of /
burying every one within the body of ye Church and Chancel, that
being a favour heretofore granted only to martyrs and greate persons ;
this excesse of making Churches Charnel-houses being of ill and irre-
verend example, and prejudicial to the health of the living, besides the
continual disturbance of the pavement and seates, and severall other
indecencies. Dr. Hall, ye pious Bishop of Norwich, would also be so
interr'd -j*, as may be read in his Testament.
16 March. I went to see Sr Josiah Child's prodigious cost in plant
ing walnut trees about his seate J, and making fish-ponds, many miles
in circuit, in Epping Forest, in a barren spot, as oftentimes these sud-
dainly moriied men for the most part seate themselves. He, from a
merchant's apprentice, and management of the East India Company's
stock, being ariv'd to an estate ('tis said) of ^.200,000 ; and lately
* The different Counties were to find provisions of different sorts, which were collected by of
ficers called purveyors, whose extortions often excited the attention of Parliament. For a parti
cular account of their practices, see Archaeologia, vol. III. p. 349.
f As was afterwards, at Fulham, Dr. Compton, Bishop of London, who used to say " The Church
yard for the dead, the Church for the living."
X Where that elegant mansion, Wanstead House, now stands.

550 [l683-
married his daughter to the eldest sonn of the Duke of Beaufort, late
Marques of Worcester, with ^.50,000 portional present, and various
expectations. I din'd at Mr. Houblon's *, a rich and gentile French merchant, who
was building a house In the Forest, neare Sir J. Child's, in a place
where yK late Earle of Norwich dwelt some time, and which came from
his lady the widow of Mr. Baker. It will be a pretty villa, about 5
miles from White-chapell.
18 March. I went to hear Dr. Horneck preach at the Savoy Church
on 2 Phil. 5. He was a German borne, a most pathetic preacher, a
person of a Saint-like life, and hath written an excellent treatise of
Consideration f.
20. Din'd at Dr. Whistler's at the Physicians CoUedge, with Sir
Tho. Millington, both learned men ; Dr. W. the most facetious man
in nature, and now Censor of the College. I was here consulted where
they should build their library ; 'tis pity this CoUedge is built so neere
New-gate Prison, and in so obscure an hole, a fault in placeing most of
our publiq buildings and Churches in the Citty, thro' the avarice of
some few men, and his Ma* not over-ruling it when it was in his power
after the dreadfull conflagration.
21. Dr. Tenison preach'd at White-hall on 1 Cor. 6. 12 ; I esteeme
him to be one of the most profitable preachers in the Church of Eng
land, being also of a most holy conversation, very learned and inge
nious. The paines he takes and care of his parish will, I feare, weare
him out, which would be an inexpressible losse J.
24. I went to heare Dr. Charleton's lecture on the heart in the
Anatomie Theater at the Physicians CoUedge.
30. I went to London in order to my passing the following weeke,
for ye celebration of ye- Easter now approaching, there being in the

* The family were eminent merchants in the time of Queen Elizabeth. Morant's Essex, II. 513.
t The full title is, " The great Law of Consideration, or a Discourse wherein the nature, use
fulness, and absolute necessity of Consideration, in order to a truly serious and religious life, are
laid open ;" it went through several editions.
+ Dr. Thomas Tenison succeeded Tillotson in the metropolitical see of Canterbury, having been
before Vicar of St. Martin's in the Fields and Bishop of Lincoln. He lived to a great age.

1683.] 551
Holy Weeke so many eminent preachers officiating at the Court and
other places.
6 April. Good Friday. There was in the afternoone, according to
costome, a Sermon before the King at White-hall ; Dr. Sprat preached
for the Bp. of Rochester.
17^ I was at the launching of the last of the 30 ships order'd to be
new built by Act of Parliament, named The Neptune, a second rate, one
of the goodliest vessells of the whole navy, built by my kind neighbour
young Mr. Shish, his Ma*s master shipwright of this dock.
1 May. I went to Blackheath to see the new faire, being the first,
procur'd by the Lord Dartmouth. This was the first day, pretended
for the sale of cattle, but I think in truth to enrich the new tavern at
the bowling greene, erected by Snape *, his Ma*'s farrier, a man full
of projects. There appeared nothing but an innumerable assembly of
drinking people from London, pedlars, &c. and I suppose it too neere
London to be of any greate use to the country.
March was unusually hot and dry, and all April excessively wet.
I planted all the outlimites of the garden and long walks with hollyf.
9. Din'd at Sr Gabriel Sylvius's, and thence to yisite ye Duke of
Norfolck, to ask whether he would part with any of his Cartoons and
other drawings of Raphael and ye greate masters; he told me if he
might sell them altogether, he would, but that the late Sr Peter Lely
(our famous painter) had gotten some of his best. The person who de
sired me to treate for them was Vander Douse, grandson to that greate
scholar, contemporary and friend of Joseph Scaliger.
16. Came to dinner and visite Sir Richard Anderson of Pendley and
his Lady, with whom 1 went to London.
June 8. On my return home from the R. Society, I found Mr Wil-
braham, a young gent, of Cheshire.
11. The Lord Dartmouth was elected Master of the Trinity House;
sonn to Geo. Legg, late Master of the Ordnance, and one of the

* Mr. Granger mentions a print of this person by White, and says he was father of Dr. Snape
of Eton : one of this family has been serjeant-farrier to the King for three hundred years,
f 400 feet in length, 9 feet high, 5 in diameter, in my now ruined garden, thanks to the Czar
of Muscovy. Sylva, book II. chap. vi.

552 [l683-
groomes of the bedchamber; a greate favorite of the Duke's, an active
and understanding gent" in sea affairs.
13. To our Society, where we received the Count de Zinzendorp,
Ambassador from the Duke of Saxonie, a very fine young man : we
shew'd him divers experiments on the magnet, on wch subject the Society
were upon.
16. I went to Windsor, dining by the way at Chesewick (Chis-
wick), at Sr Stephen Fox's, where I found Sir Robert Howard (that
universal pretender), and Sign* Verrio, who brought his draught and
designs for the painting of ye staire-case of Sr Stephen's new house.
That which was new at Windsor since I was last there, and was sur
prizing to me, was that incomparable fresca paiuting in St. George's
Hall, representing the legend of St. George, and triumph of the Black
Prince, and his reception by Edw. III. ; the volto, or roofe, not totally
finish'd ;-then the Resurrection in the Chapell, where the figure of the
Ascension is in my opinion comparable to any paintings of the most fa
mous Roman masters ; the Last Supper also over the altar. I liked
the contrivance of the unseene organ behind the altar, nor lesse the stu
pendous and beyond all description the incomparable carving of our
Gibbons, who is, without controversie, the greatest master both for in
vention and rarenesse of worke, that the world ever had in any age; nor
doubt I at all that he will prove as greate a master in the statuary art.
Verrio's invention is admirable, his ord'nance full and flowing, antiq
and heroical ; his figures move ; and if the walls hold (which is ye onely
doubt by reason of the salts which in time and in this moist climate pre
judice) the work will preserve his name to ages.
There was now the terrace brought almost round the old Castle ; the
grass made cleane, even, and curiously turf 'd ; the avenues to the new
park, and other walkes, planted with elmes and limes, and a pretty
canal, and receptacle for fowle ; nor lesse' observable and famous is the
throwing so huge a quantity of excellent water to the enormous height
of the Castle, for the use of the whole house, by an extraordinary in
vention of Sr Samuel Morland *.

* See of him p. 536, &c.

1683-] 553
17 June. I din'd at y* Earle of Sunderland's with the Earles of
Bath, Castlehaven, Lds Vists. Falconberg, Faulkland, Bp. of London,
the Grand Master of Malta, brother to the Duke de Vendosme, (a
young wild spark,) and Mr. Dryden the Poet. After evening prayer
I walk'd in the park with my Lord Clarendon, where we fell into dis
course of the Bp. of Salisbury (Dr. Seth Ward), his subtil ty, &c. Dr.
Durell, late Deane of Windsor, being dead, Dr. Turner, one of the
Duke's Chaplains, was made Deane.
I visited my Lady Arlington, Groome of the Stole to her Ma*, who
being hardly set down to supper, word was brought her that the
Queene was going into the park to walke, it being now neere eleven at
night ; the alarm caus'd the Countesse to rise in all haste, and leave her
supper to us. By this one may take an estimate of the extream slavery
and subjection that courtiers live in, who have not time to eate and
drinke at their pleasure. It put me in mind of Horace's Mouse, and
to blesse God for my owne private condition.
Here was Mons1 de 1' Angle, the famous minister of Charenton,
lately fled from the persecution in France, concerning ye deplorable con
dition of the Protestants there.
18. I was present, and saw and heard the humble submission
and petition of the Lord Maior, Sheriffs, and Aldermen, on behalf of
the Citty of London, on the quo warranto against their charter,
which they deliver'd to his Ma* in the Presence-chamber. It was de
liver'd kneeling, and then the King and Council went into the Council-
chamber, the Maior and his brethren attending still in the Presence-
chamber. After a short space they were called in, and my Lord
Keeper made a speech to them, exaggerating the disorderly and riotous
behaviour in the late election, arid polling for Papillon and Du Bois
after the Common-hall had ben formally dissolv'd; with other misde
meanors, libells on the Government, &c. by which they had incurr'd
his Ma*s high displeasure ; and that but for this submission, and under
such articles as the King should require their obedience to, he would
certainly enter judgment against them, which hitherto he had sus
pended. The things requir'd were as follows : that they should
vol. i. 4 b

554 1*6*3.
neither elect Maior, Sheriff, Aldermen, Recorder, Common Serjeant,
Towne Cleark, Coroner, or Steward of South wark, without his Ma*s
approbation ; and that if they presented any his Ma* did not like,
they should proceed in wonted manner to a second choice ; if that was
disapprov'd, his Ma* to nominate them ; and if within five daies they
thought good to assent to this, all former miscarriages should be for
gotten. And so they tamely parted with their so ancient privileges
after they had dined and ben treated by the King. This was a signal
and most remarkable period. What the consequences will prove, time
will shew. Divers of the old and most learned lawyers and judges
were of opinion that they could not forfeit their charter, but might be
personally punish'd for their misdemeanors ; but the plurality of the
younger judges and rising men judg'd It otherwise.
The Popish Plot also, which had hitherto made such a noise, began
now sensibly to dwindle, thro' the folly, knavery, impudence, and
giddiness of Oates, so as the Papists began to hold up their heads
higher than ever, and those who had fled, flock'd to London from
abroad. Such suddaine changes and eager doings there had ben, with
out any thing steady or prudent for these last seaven yeares.
19 June. I return'd to towne in a coach with the Earle of Claren
don, when passing by the glorious palace his father built but few
yeares before, which they were now demolishing, being sold to cer
taine undertakers, I turn'd my head the contrary way till the coach was
gone past it, least I might minister occasion of speaking of it, which
must needs have griev'd him, that in so short a time their pomp was
fallen. 28. After the Popish Plot there was now a new, and (as they call'd
it) a Protestant Plot discover'd, that certaine Lords and others should
designe the assassination of the King and the Duke as they were to
come from New-market, with a general rising of ye Nation, and espe
cialy of the Citty of London, disaffected to the present Government ;
upon which were committed to the Tower the Lord Russell, eldest son
of the Earle of Bedford, the Earle of Essex, Mr. Algernon Sydney son
to the old Earle of Leicester, Mr. Trenchard, Hampden, Lord Howard
of Escrick, and others. A proclamation was issued against my Lord

1683.] 555
Grey, the Duke of Monmouth, Sr Tho. Armstrong, and one Ferguson,
who had escaped beyond sea ; of these some were said to be for killing
the King, others for onely seizing on him and persuading him to new
counsels, on the pretence of the danger of Popery should the Duke
live to succeed, who was now again admitted to the councils and cabi
net seacrets. The Lords Essex and Russell were much deplor'd, few
believing they had any evil intention against the King or the Church ;
some thought they were cunningly drawn in by their enemies for not
approving some late councils and management relating to France, to
Popery, to the persecution of the Dissenters, &c. They were disco
vered by the Lord Howard of Escrick and some false brethren of the
club, and the designe happily broken ; had it taken effect, it would, to
all appearance, have expos'd the Government to unknowne and dan
gerous events, which God avert !
28. Was borne my grand-daughter at Says Court, and christned by
the name of Martha Maria, our Viccar officiating. I pray God blesse"
her, and may she choose the better part.
13 July. As I was visiting Sr Tho. Yarbrow and his Lady in Co
vent Garden, the astonishing newes was brought to us of the Earle of
Essex having cut his throat, having ben but three days a prisoner in
the Tower, and this happening on the very day and instant that Lord
Russell was on his trial, and had sentence of death. This accident
exceedingly amaz'd me, my Lord Essex being so well known by me
to be a person of such sober and religious deportment, so well at his
ease, and so much oblig'd to the King. It is certaine the King and
Duke were at the Tower, and pass'd by his window about the same
time this morning, when my Lord asking for a rasor shut himselfe into
a closet and perpetrated the horrid act. Yet it was wondred by some
how it was possible he should do it in the manner he was found, for
the wound was so deepe and wide, that being cut thro' the gullet,
wind-pipe, and both the jugulars, it reach'd to the very vertebras of ye
neck, so that the head held to it by a very little skin as it were ; y
gapping too of ye rasor, and cutting his owne fingers, was a little
strange; but more, that having pass'd the jugulars he should have

556 [1683-
strength to proceed so far, that an executioner could hardly have don
mOre with an axe. There were odd reflections upon it *.
This fatal newes coming to Hicks's Hall upon the article of my
Lord Russell's trial, was said to have had no little influence on the
Jury and all the Bench to his prejudice. Others said that he had him
selfe on some occasions hinted, that in case he should be in danger of
having his life taken from him by any publiq misfortune, those who
thirsted for his estate should misse of their aim ; and that he should
speak favourably of that Earle of Northumberland f , and some others
who made away with themselves ; but these are discourses so unlike
his sober and prudent conversation, that I have no inclination to credit
them. What might Instigate him to this devilish fact, I am not able
to conjecture. My Lord Clarendon, his brother-in-law, who was with
him but the day before, assur'd me he was then very cherefull, and
declar'd it to be the effect of his innocence and loyalty ; and most be
lieve that his Ma* had no severe intentions against him, tho' he was
altogether inexorable as to Lord Russell, and some of the rest. For
my part, I believe the crafty and ambitious Earle of Shaftesbury had
brought them into some dislike of the present carriage of matters at
Court, not with any designe of destroying the Monarchy (which
Shaftesbury has in confidence and for unanswerable reasons told me he
would support to his last breath, as having seene and felt the miserie
of being under mechanic tyranny), but perhaps of setting up some
other whom he might governe, and frame to his own Platonic fancie,
without much regard to the religion establish'd under the Hierarchie,
for which he had no esteeme ; but when he perceiv'd those whom he
had engag'd to rise, fail of his expectations, and the day past, reproch-
ing his complices that a second day for an exploit of this nature was
never successfull, he gave them the slip, and got Into Holland, where
the fox died, three moneths before these unhappy Lords and others
were discover' d or suspected. Every one deplor'd Essex and Russell,
* Bishop Burnet, after making every enquiry by desire of the Countess, does not believe that
Essex was murdered. Own Times, vol. I. p. 569.
f Henry Percy, eighth Earl of Northumberland, shot himself in the Tower, to which he had
been committed on a charge of high treason in June 1585.

1683.] 557
especialy the last, as being thought to have ben drawn in on pretence
only of endeavouring to rescue the King from his present councel lors,
and secure Religion from Popery, and the Nation from arbitrary Go
vernment, now so much apprehended; whilst the rest of those who
were fled, especialy Ferguson and his gang, had doubtlesse some bloudy
designe, to set up a Commonwealth, and turn all things topsy turvy.
Of the same tragical principles is Sidney.
13. I had this day much discourse with Monsr Pontaq, son to ye
famous and wise prime President of Bourdeaux. This gentleman was
owner of that excellent vignoble of Pontaq and Obrien, from whence
come the choicest of our Bourdeaux wines ; and I think I may truly
say of him, what was not so truly said of St. Paul, that much learning
had made him mad. He had studied well in philosophie, but cheifly
the rabbines, and was exceedingly addicted to cabalistical fancies, an
eternal hablador [babbler], and halfe distracted by reading aboundance
of the extravagant Eastern Jewes. He spake all languages, was very
rich, had a handsome person, and was well bred, about 45 yeares
of age.
14 July. I visited Mr. Fraser, a learned Scots gent", whom I had
formerly recommended to Lord Berkeley for the instruction and govern
ment of his sonn, since dead at sea. He had now ben in Holland at
the sale of yK learned Heinsius's library, and shewed me some very rare
and curious bookes, and some MSS. which he had purchas'd to good
value. There were three or foure Herbals in miniature, accurately
don, divers Roman antiquities, of Verona, and very many books of
Aldus's impression.
15. A stranger, an old man, preach'd on 6 Jerem. 8. the not
hearkening to instruction, portentous of desolation to a people; much
after Bp. Andrews's method, full of logical divisions, in short and
broken periods, and Latine sentences, now quite out of fashion in the
pulpit, which is grown into a far more profitable way, of plaine and
practical discourses, of which sort this Nation, or any other, never had
greater plenty or more profitable (I am confident) ; so much has it to
answer for thriving no better on it.

558 [1683-
The public was now in greate consternation on the late plot and
conspiracy; his Majestie very melancholy, & not stirring without
double guards ; all the avenues and private dores about White-hall and
the Park shut up, few admitted to walke in it. The Papists in the
meane time very jocond, and indeede with reason, seeing their own plot
brought to nothing, and turn'd to ridicule, and now a conspiracy of
Protestants as they call'd them.
The Turks were likewise in hostility against the German Emperor,
almost masters of the Upper Hungary, and drawing towards Vienna.
On the other side the French King (who 'tis believ'd brought in the
infidels) disturbing his Spanish and Dutch neighbours, having swal
low'd up almost all Flanders, pursuing his ambition of a fifth universal
monarchy; and all this blood and disorder in Christendom had evi
dently its rise from our defections at home, in a wanton peace, minding
nothing but luxurie, ambition, and to procure money for our vices.
To this add our irreligion and atheism, greate ingratitude, and selfe
interest ; the apostacy of some, and the suffering the French to grow
so greate, and the Hollanders so weake. In a word, we were wanton,
madd, and surfeiting with prosperity ; every moment unsettling the
old foundations, and never constant to any thing. The Lord in mercy
avert the sad omen, and that we do not provoke him till he beare it
no longer !
This summer did we suffer 20 French men of war to passe our
Channell towards the Sound, to help the Danes against the Swedes
who had abandon'd the French interest ; we not having ready sufficient *
to guard our coasts or take cognizance of what they did; tho' the
nation never had more, or a better navy, yet the sea never had so
slender a fleete.
19 July. George Prince of Denmark, who landed this day, came to
marry the Lady Anne, daughter to the Duke : so I returned home,
having seene the young gallant at dinner at White-hall.
20. Severall of the Conspirators of ye lower forme were executed at
Tyburn ; and the next day,
21. Lord Russell was beheaded in Lincoln's Inn Fields, the execu
tioner giving him three butcherly strokes. The speech he made,

*6S3.] 559
and paper which he gave the Sheriff declaring his innocence, the
noblenesse of the family, the piety and worthynesse of ye unhappy
gentleman, wrought much pity, and occasion'd various discourses on
the plot.
25. I againe saw Prince George of Denmark : he had the Danish
countenance, blonde, of few words, spake French but ill, seem'd some
what heavy, but reported to be valiant, and indeede he had bravely
rescu'd and brought off his brother the K. of Denmark in a battaile
against the Swedes, when both those Kings were engag'd very smartly.
28. He was married to the Lady Anne at White-hall. Her Court
and Household to be modell'd as the Duke's, her father, had ben, and
they to continue in England.
1 Aug. Came to see me Mr. Flamsted, the famous astronomer,
from his Observatorie at Greenewich, to draw the meridian for my
pendule, &c.
2. The Countesses of Bristol and Sunderland, aunt and cousin
german of the late Lord Russell, came to visite me, and condole his
sad fate. The next day came Col. Russell, uncle to the late Lord
Russell, and brother to the Earle of Bedford, and with him Mrs*
Middleton, that famous and indeede incomparable beauty, daughter to
my relation Sr Rob1 Needham.
19. I went to Bromely to visite our Bishop, and excellent neigh
bour, & to .congratulate his now being made Archbishop of Yorke. On
the 28th he came to take his leave of us, now preparing for his journey
and residence in. his province.
28. My sweete little grandchild Martha Maria died, and on the
29th was buried in the parish church.
2 Sept. This morning was read in the Chureh, after the office was
done, the declaration setting forth the late conspiracy against the
King's person.
3. I went to see what had ben done by the Duke of Beaufort on his
late purchas'd house at Chelsey, which I once had the selling of for the
Countesse of Bristol ; he had made greate alterations, but might have
built a better house with the materials and the cost he had been at.

560 1*6*3-
Saw ye Countesse of Monte Feltre, whose husband I had formerly
known ; he was a subject of the Pope's, but becoming a Protestant, he
resided in England, and married into the family of the Savilles of
Yorkshire. The Count, her late husband, was a very learned gent: a
greate politician, and a goodly man. She was accompanied by her sister
exceedingly skill'd in painting, nor did they spare for colour on their
owne faces. They had a greate deal of wit.
9. It being the day of publiq thanksgiving for his Ma*'s late pre
servation, the former declaration was againe read, and there was an
office us'd, compos'd for the occasion. A loyal Sermon was preached
on ye divine right of Kings, from 144 Psalm 10. " Thou hast preserved
David from the peril of the sword."
15. Came to visite me the learned anatomist Dr. Tyson, with some
other Fellows of our Society.
16. At the elegant villa and garden of Mr. Bohun's at Lee. He
shewed me the zlnnar tree or platanus, and told me that since they
had planted this kind of tree about the Citty of Ispahan in Persia, the
plague, wch formerly much infested the place, had exceedingly abated
of its mortal effects, and render'd it very healthy.
18. I went to London to visite ye Dutchesse of Grafton, now greate
with child, a most virtuous and beautifull lady. Dining with her at
my Lord Chamberlaine's, met my Lord of St. Alban's, now grown so
blind that he could not see to take his • meate. He has liv'd a most
easy life, in plenty even abroad, whilst his Ma* was a sufferer ; he has
lost immense sums at play, which yet, at about 80 yeares old, he
continues, having one that sits by him to name the spots in the cards.
He eate and drank with extraordinary appetite. He is a prudent old
courtier, and much enrich'd since his Ma*'s returne.
After dinner I walked to survey the sad demolition of Clarendon
House, that costly and only sumptuous palace of the late Lord Chan
cellor Hyde, where I have often ben so cheerfull with him, and some
times so sad : happening to make him a visite but the day before he fled
from the angry Parliament, accusing him of mal- administration, and
being envious at his grandeur, who from a private lawyer came to be
father In law to the Duke of York, and as some would suggest, design-

1683.] 561
ing his Ma*'s marriage with the Infanta of Portugal, not apt to breed ;
to this they imputed much of our unhappiness, and that he being sole
minister and favorite at his Majesty's Restauration, neglected to gratify
the King's suffering party, preferring those who were the cause of our
troubles. But perhaps as many of these things were injuriously laid to
his charge, so he kept the government far steadier than it has prov'd
since. I could name some who I think contributed greatelv to his ruin,
the buffooned and the misses, to whom he was an eye-sore. 'Tis true
he was of a jolly temper after the old English fashion ; but France had
now the ascendant, and we were become quite another nation. The
Chancellor gone, and dying in exile, the Earl his successor sold that
which cost ,§850,000. building, to the young Duke of Albemarle for
.§£25,000. to pay debts which how contracted remains yet a mystery,
his sonn being no way a prodigal. Some imagine the Dutchesse his
daughter had ben chargeable to him. However it were, this stately
palace is decreed to mine, to support the prodigious waste the Duke of
Albemarle had made of his estate since the old man died. He sold it
to the highest bidder, and it fell to certaine rich bankers and mechanics,
who gave for it and the ground about it ,§£35,000. ; they designe a
new towne as it were, and a most magnificent piazza (i. e. square.)
'Tis said they have already materials towards it with what they sold of
the house alone, more worth than what they paid for it. See the
vicissitude of earthly things ! I was astonished at this demolition, nor
less at the little army of labourers and artificers levelling the ground,
laying foundations, and contriving greate buildings at an expence of
,§£200,000. if they perfect their designe *.

* In a letter to Lord Cornbury, dated. Says Court, 20 Jan. 1 665-6, Mr. Evelyn having been to
see Clarendon House, says, " I went with prejudice and a critical spirit, incident to those who fancy
they know any thing in art ; I acknowledge that I have never seene a nobler pile. My old friend
and fellow traveller (inhabitants and co-temporaries at Rome) has perfectly acquitted himself. It
is, without hyperbole, the best contrived, the most usefull, gracefull, and magnificent house in
England ; I except not Audley End, which, though larger and full of gaudy barbarous ornaments,
dos not gratifie judicious spectators. Here is state and use, solidity and beauty, most symetrically
combined together. Nothing abroad pleases me better, nothing at home approches it. I have
no designe to gratifie the architect beyond what I am obliged as a professed honorer of virtue
wheresoever 'tis conspicuous ; but when I had seriously contemplated every roome (for I went
VOL. T. 4 C

562 1*6*3-
19. In my walkes I stepp'd into a goldbeaters work-house, where
he shew'd me the wonderfull ductilitie of that spreading and oylie
metall. He said it must be finer than the standard, such as was old
angel gold, and that of such he had once to yb value of ,§£100. stamp'd
with the agnus dei; and coyn'd at the time of the holy war, which had
ben found in a ruin'd wall somewhere in the North, neere to Scotland,
some of which he beate into leaves, and the rest sold to ye curiosi in
antiquities and medails.
23 Sept. We had now yc welcome tidings of the King of Poland
raising the siege of Vienna, which had given terror to all Europe, and
utmost reproch to ye French, who 'tis believ'd brought in the Turks for
diversion that the French King might the more easily swallow Flanders,
and pursue his unjust conquests on the Empire, whilst we sat uncon-
cern'd and under a deadly charm from somebody.
There was this day a collection for rebuilding New- market, consum'd
by an accidental fire, which removing his Ma* thence sooner than was
intended, put by the assassinates, who were disappointed of their ren
dezvous and expectation by a wonderfull providence. This made the
-King more earnest to render Winchester the seate of his autumnal field
diversions for the future, designing a palace there, where ye antient
castle stood ; infinitely indeede preferable to New-market for prospects,
air, pleasure, and provisions. The surveior has already begun the
foundation for a palace, estimated to cost ,§£.35,000, and his Majesty
Is purchasing ground about it to make a parke, &c.
4 Oct. I went to London, on receiving a note from the Countesse
of Arlington, of some considerable charge or advantage I might ob-
taine by applying myselfe to his Ma* on this signal conjuncture of his
Majesty entering up judgment against the City Charter; the proposal
made me I wholly declln'd, not being well satisfied with these violent
transactions, and not a little sorry that his Ma* was so often put upon
things of this nature against so greate a Citty, the consequences whereoff
pito 'em all, from the cellar to the platforme on the roofe), seene how well and judiciously the
walls were erected, the arches cut and turn'd, the timber brac'd, their scantlings and contignations
dispos'd, I was most highly satisfied, and do acknowledge myselfe to have much improv'd by what
I observ'd.''

1683.] 563
may be so much to his prejudice ; so I return'd home. At this time the
Lord Cheif Justice Pemberton was displaced. He was held to be the
most learned of the judges, and an honest man. S1 Geo. Jefferies was
advanc'd, reputed to be most ignorant, but most daring. Sr Geo.
Treby, Recorder of London, was also put by, and one Genner, an ob
scure lawyer, set in his place. Eight of the richest and cheife alder
men were remov'd, and all the rest made onely justices of the peace,
and no more wearing of gownes or chaines of gold. The Lord Mayor
and two Sheriffs holding their places by new grants, as Custodes, at
the King's pleasure. The pompe and grandure of the most august
Citty in the world thus chang'd face in a moment, which gave greate
occasion of discourse and thoughts of hearts, what all this would end
in. Prudent men were for the old foundations.
Following his Ma* this morning thro' the gallerie, I went, with the
few who attended him, into the Dutchesse of Portsmouth's dressing-
roome within her bed-chamber, where she was in her morning loose
garment, her maids combing her, newly out of her bed, his Ma* and
the gallants standing about her ; but that which engag'd my curiosity
was the rich and splendid furniture of this woman's apartment, now
twice or thrice pull'd down and rebuilt to satisfie her prodigal and ex
pensive pleasures, whilst her Ma*s dos not exceede some gentlemen's
ladies in furniture and accommodation. Here I saw the new fabriq of
French tapissry, for designe, tendernesse of worke, and incomparable
imitation of the best paintings, beyond any thing I had ever beheld.
Some pieces had Versailles, St. German's, and other palaces of the
French King, with huntings, figures, and landskips, exotiq fowls, and
all to the life rarely don. Then for Japan cabinets, screenes, pendule
clocks, greate vases of wrought plate, tables, stands, chimney furni
ture, sconces, branches, braseras, &c. all of massie silver, and out of
number, besides some of her Ma*s best paintings.
Surfeiting of this, I din'd at Sr Stephen Fox's, and went contented
home to my poor, but quiet villa. What contentment can there be
in the riches and splendor of this world, purchas'd with vice and dis
honour !

564 [1683-
10 Oct. Visited the Dutchesse of Grafton, not yet brought to bed,
and dining with my Lord Chamberlaine (her father), went with them
to see Montagu House*, a palace lately built by Lord Montagu, who
had married ye most beautifull Countesse of Northumberland f . It is
a stately and ample palace. Signr Verrio's fresca paintings, especialy
the funeral pile of Dido, on ye stayrecase, the labours of Hercules,
fight with the Centaurs, effeminacy with Dejanira, and Apotheosis or
reception amongst the gods, on yL" walls and roofe of the greate roome
above, I think exceedes any thing he has yet don, both for designe,
colouring, and exuberance of invention, comparable to ye greatest of
the old masters, or what they so celebrate at Rome. In the rest of the
chamber are some excellent paintings of Holbein and other masters.
The garden is large, and in good aire, but the fronts of the house not
answerable to tbe inside. The Court at entrie, and wings for offices
seeme too neere the streete, and that so very narrow and meanely built
that the corridore is not in proportion to ye rest, to hide the court from
being overlook'd by neighbours, all which might have ben prevented
had they plac'd the house further into ye ground, of which there was
enough to spare. But on the whole it is a fine palace, built after the
French pavilion way, by Mr. Hooke, the Curator of the Royal Society.
There were with us my Lady Scroope, the greate witt, and Monsr
Chardine J, the celebrated traveller.
13. Came to visite me my old and worthy friend Mr. Packer,
bringing with him his nephew Berkeley, grandson to the honest judge.
A most ingenious, virtuous, and religious gentn, seated neere Worces
ter, and very curious in gardening.
17 Oct. I was at the court leet of this manor, my Lord Arlington
his Ma*'s High Steward §.
26. Came to visite and dine with me, Mr. Brisbane, Secretary to
the Admiralty, a learned and agreeable man.
* See p. 513.
f He was made Earl of Montagu by King William, and Duke by Queen Anne. His wife was
Lady Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Wriothesley Earl of Southampton, widow of Joceline Percy,
the 11th and last Earl of Northumberland (of that family).
+ See p. 567. § The manor of Deptford le Strond, alias West Greenwich.

168a.] 565
30. I went to Kew to visite Sr Hen. Capell, brother to the late
Earle of Essex ; but he being gone to Cashioberry, after I had seene
his garden * and the alterations therein, I return'd home. He had re-
pair'd his house, roof'd his hall with a kind of cupola, and in a niche
was an artificial fountaine ; but the roome seems to me over melan
choly, yet might be much improv'd by having the walls well painted a
fresca. The two greene houses for oranges and mirtles communicating
with the roomes below, are very well contriv'd -f\ There is a cupola
made with pole-work betweene two elmes at the end of a walk, which
being cover'd by plashing the trees to them, is very pretty : for the rest
there are too many fir trees in the garden.
17 Nov. I tooke a house in Villlers Streete, York Buildings, for
the winter, having many important concernes to dispatch, and for the
education of my daughters.
23. The Duke of Monmouth, till now proclaim'd traytor on the
pretended plot for which Lord Russell was lately beheaded, came this
evening to White- hall and render'd himselfe, on which were various
discourses. 26. I went to compliment the Dutchesse of Grafton, now laying-
in of her first child, a sonn J, which she call'd for, that I might see it.
She was become more beautiful, if it were possible, than before, and
full of vertue and sweetnesse. She discours'd with me of many parti
culars, with greate prudence and gravity beyond her yeares.
29. Mr. Forbes shew'd me the plot of the garden making at Bur
leigh, at my Lord Exeter's, which I look'd on as one of the most noble
that I had seene.
The whole court and towne in solemn mourning for the death of the
K. of Portugal, her Maties brother.
30. At the anniversary dinner of the Royal Society the King sent
us two does. Sr Cyril Wych was elected President.

* Archaeologia, vol. XII. p. 1S5.
f Of late years this plan has been adopted at many gentlemen's houses. (1816.)
+ Charles, who succeeded his father killed in Ireland in 1690. This son was Lord Lieutenant
of Ireland, Lord Chamberlain, Privy Counsellor, K. G. &c. in the reigns of Anne, George I. and
George II. There is a fine whole-length mezzotinto of him by Faber.

566 U6^-
5 Dec. I was this day invited to a wedding of one Mrs. Castle, to
whom I had some obligation, and it was to her fifth husband, a Lieutc
Colonel of the Citty. She was the daughter of one Burton, a broom -
man, by his wife who sold kitchen stuff in Kent Streete, whom God so
bless'd that the father became a very rich, and was a very honest man ;
he was Sheriff of Surrey*, where I have sat on the bench with him.
Another of his daughters was married to Sir John Bowles ; and this
daughter was a jolly friendly woman. There was at the wedding ye
Lord Maior, the Sheriff, several Aldermen, and persons of qualitle ;
above all, Sr Geo. Jefferies, newly made Lord Cheife Justice of England,
with Mr. Justice Withings, daunc'd with the bride and were exceeding
merrle. These greate men spent the rest of the afternoone, till 11 at
night, in drinking healths, taking tobacco, and talking much beneath
the gravity of Judges that had but a day or two before condemn'd Mr.
Algernon Sidney, who was executed the 7th on Tower Hill, on the
single witnesse of that monster of a man, Lord Howard of Escrick,
and some sheets of paper taken in Mr. Sidney's study, pretended to be
written by him, but not fully prov'd, nor the time when, but appearing
to have ben written before his Majesty's restauration, and then pardon'd
by the act of oblivion ; so that tho' Mr. Sidney was known to be a
person obstinately averse to government by a monarch (the subject of
the paper was in answer to one of Sr E. Filmer), yet it was thought he
had very hard measure. There Is this yet observable, that he had ben
an inveterate enemie to the last King, and in actual rebellion against
him ; a man of greate courage, greate sense, greate parts, which he
shew'd both at his trial and death ; for when he came on the scaffold,
instead of a speech, he told them onely that he had made his peace
with God, that he came not thither to talk, but to die; put a paper
into the Sheriff's hand, and another into a friend's, sayd one prayer as
short as a grace, laid down his neck, and bid the executioner do his
office. The Duke of Monmouth, now having his pardon, refuses to acknow
ledge there was any treasonable plot ; for which he is banish'd White-
* In 1673.

I683.] 567
hall. This was a greate disappointment to some who had prosecuted
Trenchard, Hampden, &c. that for want of a second witnesse were
come out of the Tower upon their habeas corpus.
The King had now augmented his guards with a new sort of dra
goons, who carried also granados, and were habited after the Polish
manner, with long picked caps, very fierce and fantastical.
7- I went to the Tower, and visited the Earl of Danby, the late
Lord High Treasurer, who had ben imprison'd four years : he receiv'd
me with greate kindnesse. I dined with him, and staied till night.
We had discourse of many things, his Lady railing sufficiently at the
keeping her husband so long in prison. Here I saluted the Lord Dun-
blaine's wife*, who before had ben married to Emerton, and about
whom there was that scandalous businesse before ye delegates.
23. The small pox very prevalent and mortal ; the Thames frozen.
26. I dined at Lord Clarendon's, where I was to meet that inge
nious and learned gent" Sr Geo. Wheeler, who has published the excel
lent description of Africa and Greece, and who being a Knight of a
very fair estate and young, had now newly entred into holy orders.
27- I went to visite Sir John Chardin, a French gentleman who had
travell'd three times by land into Persia, and had made many curious
researches in his travells, of which he was now setting forth a relation.
It being in England this year one of the severest frosts that had hap
pen'd of many yeares, he told me the cold in Persia was much greater,
the ice of an incredible thicknesse; that they had little use of iron in all
that country, it being so moiste (tho' the aire admirably clear and
healthy), that oyle would not preserve it from rusting, so that they had
neither clocks nor watches ; some padlocks they had for doores and
boxes. 30. Dr. Sprat, now made Deane of Westminster, preached to the
King at White-hall, on 6 Matt. 24. Recollecting the passages of the
past yeare, I gave God thanks for his mercies, praying his blessing for
the future.

* Peregrine Viscount Dumblaine, youngest son of the Earl of Danby, so created in his father's
life-time, and who became his successor in title and estate.

568 [1684.
1684, 1 Jan. The weather continuing intolerably severe, streetes of
booths were set upon the Thames ; the aire was so very cold and thick,
as of many yeares there had not ben the like. The small pox was very
mortal. 2. I din'd at Sr Ste. Fox's : after dinner came a fellow who eate live
charcoal, glowingly ignited, quenching them in his mouth, and then
champing and swallowing them down. There was a dog also which
seem'd to do many rational actions.
6. The river quite frozen.
9. I went crosse the Thames on the ice, now become so thick as to
beare not onely streetes of boothes, in which they roasted meate, and
had divers shops of wares, quite acrosse as in a towne, but coaches,
carts, and horses, passed over. So I went from Westminster Stayres to
Lambeth, and din'd with the Archbishop: where I met my Lord Bruce,
Sir Geo. Wheeler, Coll. Cooke, and severall divines. After dinner and
discourse with his Grace till evening prayers, Sir Geo. Wheeler and I
walked over the ice from Lambeth Stayres to the horse ferry.
10. I visited Sir Robert Reading, where after supper we had musiq,
but not comparable to that which Mrs. Bridgeman made us on the
guittar with such extraordinary skill and dexterity.
16. The Thames was fill'd with people and tents, selling all sorts of
wares as in the Citty.
24. The frost continuing more and more severe, the Thames before
London was still planted with boothes in formal streetes, all sorts of
trades and shops furnish'd and full of commodities, even to a printing
presse, where the peopje and ladyes tooke a fancy to have their names
printed, and the day and yeare set down when printed on the Thames*;
this humour tooke so universally, that 'twas estimated the printer
gain'd s£5. a day, for printing a line onely, at sixpence a name, be
sides what he got by ballads, &c. Coaches plied from Westminster to
tke Temple, and from several other staires to and fro, as in the

* By favour of a gentleman possessed of innumerable literary curiosities, I have one of these
-cards now before me. Within a treble border, " Monsr et Madm Justel. Printed on the River
of Thames being frozen. In the 36th year of King Charles the II. February the 5th, 1683." v. s.
is added with a pen, probably by Mr. Justell. Editor.

1684.] 569
streetes, sleds, sliding with skeetes, a bull-baiting, horse and coach
races, puppet plays and interludes, cookes, tlpling, and other lewd
places, so that it seem'd to be a bacchanalian triumph, or carnival on
the water, whilst it was a severe judgment on the land, the trees not
onely splitting as if lightning-struck, but men and cattle perishing in
divers places, and the very seas so lock'd up with ice, that no vessells
could stir out or come in. The fowles, fish, and birds, and all our
exotiq plants and greenes universally perishing. Many parkes of deer
were destroied, and all sorts of fuell so deare that there were greate con
tributions to preserve the poore alive. Nor was this severe weather
much lesse intense in most parts of Europe, even as far as Spaine and
the most Southern tracts. London, by reason of the excessive cold-
nesse of the aire hindering the ascent of the smoke, was so fill'd with
the fuliginous steame of the sea-coale, that hardly could one see crosse
the streetes, and this filling the lungs with its grosse particles, exceed
ingly obstructed the breast, so as one could scarcely breath. Here was
no water to be had from the pipes and engines, nor could the brewers
and divers other tradesmen worke, and every moment was full of dis
astrous accidents.
4 Feb. I went to Says Court to see how the frost had dealt with
my garden, where I found many of the greenes and rare plantes utterly
destroied. The oranges and mirtills very sick, the rosemary and laurells
dead to all appearance, but ye cypress likely to indure It.
5. It began to thaw, but froze againe. My coach crossed from
Lambeth to the Horseferry at Millbank, Westminster. The booths
were almost all taken downe, but there was first a Map or Landskip
cut in copper representing all the manner of the camp, and the several
actions, sports, and pastimes thereon, in memory of so signal a frost *.
7 . I dined with my Lord Keeper [North], and walking alone with
him some time In his gallery, we had discourse of musiq. He told me
he had ben brought up to it from a child, so as to sing his part at first
sight. Then speaking of Painting, of which he was also a greate

* There are different representations of this curious scene, both in wood and copper-plate en
gravings.
VOL. I. 4 D

570 [1684.
lover, and other ingenious matters, he desir'd me to come oftener
to him.
8. I went this evening to visite that greate and knowing virtuoso
Monsr Justell. The weather was set in to an absolute thaw and rairie,
but ye Thames still frozen.
10. After eight weekes missing the foraine posts, there came
aboundance of Intelligence from abroad.
12. The Earle of Danby, late Lord Treasurer, together with
the Roman Catholic Lords impeach'd of High Treason in the Popish
Plot, had now their Habeas Corpus,- and came out upon baile, after five
yeares imprisonment in the Tower. Then were also tried and deeply
fin'd Mr. Hampden and others for being suppos'd of the late Plot, for
which Lord Russell and Col. Sidney suffer'd ; as also the person who
went about to prove that the Earle of Essex had his throat cut in the
Tower by others ; likewise Mr. Johnson, the author of that famous
piece called Julian.
15. Newes of the Prince of Orange having accus'd the Deputies of
Amsterdam of Crimen lesse Majestatis, and being Pensioners to France.
Dr. Tenison communicated to me his intention of erecting a Library
in St. Martin's parish, for the publiq use, and desir'd my assistance with
Sr Chrisf Wren about the placeing and structure thereof. A worthy
and laudable designe. He told me there were 30 or 40 young men in
Orders in his parish, either Governors to young gentlemen or Chaplains
to noblemen, who being reprov'd by him on occasion for frequenting
taverns or coffee-houses, told him they would study or employ their
time better, if they had books. This put the pious Doctor on this de
signe ; and indeede a greate reproch it is that so greate a Citty as
London should not have a publiq Library becoming it. There ought
to be one at St. Paules ; the West end of that church (If ever finish'd)
would be a convenient place.
23. I went to Sir John Chardine, who desired my assistance for the
engraving the plates, the translation, and printing his History of that
wonderfull Persian Monument neere Persepolis, and other rare anti
quities, which he had caus'd to be drawne from the originals in his
second journey into Persia, which we now concluded upon. After-

1 684.] 571
wards I went with Sr Christ' Wren to Dr Tenison, where we made the
drawing and estimate of the expence of the Library, to be begun this
next Spring neere the Mewes *.
Greate expectation of the Prince of Orange's attempts in Holland to
bring those of Amsterdam to consent to the new levies, to which we
were no friends, by a pseu do- politic adherence to the French interest.
26. Came to visite me Dr. Turner, our new Bishop of Rochester.
28. I din'd at Lady Tuke's, where I heard Dr Walgrave (Phy
sitian to ye Duke and Dutchesse) play excellently on the lute.
7 March. Dr. Meggot, Deane of Winchester, preached an incompa
rable sermon, (the King being now gone to New-market,) on 12 Heb.
15. shewing and pathetically pressing the care we ought to have least
we come short of the grace of God. Afterwards I went to visite Dr.
Tenison at Kensington, whither he was retired to refresh after he had
ben sick of the small pox.
15. At White-hall preached Mr. Henry Godolphin, a prebend of
St. Paules, and brother to my deare friend Sydnie, on 55 Isaiah 7 . I
dined at the Lord Keeper's, and brought to him Sir John Chardin, who
shewed him his accurate draughts of his travells in Persia.
28. There was so greate a concourse of people with their children
to be touch'd for the Evil, that 6 or 7 were crush'd to death by pressing 4
at the Chirurgeon's doore for tickets. The weather began to be more
mild and tolerable, but there was not the least appearance of any
Spring. 30. Easter day. The Bp. of Rochester [Dr. Turner] preach'd be
fore, the King; after which his Ma*, accompanied with three of his
natural sonns, the Dukes of Northumberland, Richmond, and St.
Alban's (sons of Portsmouth, Cleaveland, and Nelly), went up to the
Altar ; ye three boyes entering before the King within the railes, at the
right hand, and three Bishops on the left, viz. London (who officiated),
Durham, and Rochester, with the Sub-dean Dr. Holder. The King

* There is now (1817) a handsome room well furnished with books, under the care of the Vicar
of St. Martin's, in Castle-street, near the Mews gate. Sion College is more peculiarly appropriated
to the Clergy in the City.

572 [1684-
kneeling before the Altar, making his offering, the Bishop first re
ceiv'd, and then his Ma* ; after which he retir'd to a canopied seate
on the right hand. Note, there was perfume burnt before the Office
began. I had receiv'd ye Sacrament at White-hall early with the Lords
and Household, ye Bp. of London officiating. Then went to St. Mar
tin's, where Dr. Tenison preach'd (recover'd from yc small-pox); then
went againe to White-hall as above. In the afternoone went to St.
Martin's againe.
4 April. I return'd home with my family to my house at Says Court,
after five months residence in London ; hardly the least appearance of
any Spring.
30. A Letter of mine to the Royal Society concerning the terrible
effects of the past winter being read, they desired it might be printed
in the next Part of their Transactions *.
10 May. I went to visite my brother in Surrey. Call'd by the way
at Ashted, where Sr Rob1 Howard (Auditor of the Exchequer) enter
tain'd me very civilly at his new built house, which stands in a Park on
the Downe, the avenue South ; tho' downe hill to the house, which
is not greate, but with the outhouses very convenient. The staire-case
is painted by Verrio with the storie of Astrea ; amongst other figures
is the Picture of the Painter himselfe, and not unlike him ; the rest is
well done, onely the columns did not at all please me ; there is also
Sir Robert's own Picture in an oval ; the whole in fresca. The place
has this greate defect, that there is no water but what is drawn up by
horses from a very deepe well.
11. Visited Mr. Higham, who was ill, and died 3 days after. His
grandfather and father (who christen'd me), with himselfe, had now
ben Rectors of this parish 101 yeares, viz. from May 1583.
12. I return'd to London, where I found the Commissioners of the
Admiralty abolish'd, and the office of Admiral restor'd to ye Duke, as
to the disposal and ordering all Sea businesse ; but his Ma* sign'd all
Petitions, Papers, Warrants, and Commissions, that the Duke, not

* This was done in No. 158. See it at length in Dr. Kippis's new edition of the Biog. Brit.
vol. V. p. 623.

1684-] 573
acting as Admiral by commission or office, might not incur the penalty
of the late Act against Papists and Dissenters holding offices, and re
fusing the Oath and Test. Every one was glad of this change, those
in the late Commission being utterly ignorant in their duty, to the
greate damage of the Navy.
The utter mine of the Low Country was threaten'd by the siege of
Luxembergh, if not timely reliev'd, and by the obstinacy of the Hol
landers, who refus'd to assist the Prince of Orange, being corrupted by
the French.
16. I received .§£.600 of Sr Charles Bickerstaff for the fee-farm of
Pilton in Devon.
26. Lord Dartmouth was chosen Master of the Trinity Com
pany, newly return'd with the fleete from blowing up and demolishing
Tangier. In the sermon preach'd on this occasion, Dr. Can observ'd
that, in the 27th chapter of the Acts of the Apostles, the casting an
chor out of the fore-ship had been cavill'd at as betraying total Igno
rance : that it is very true our seamen do not do so, but in the Medi
terranean their ships were built differently from ours, and to this day it
was the practice to do so there.
Luxembergh was surrender'd to the French, which makes them mas
ter of all the Netherlands, gives them entrance into Germany, and a fair
game for universal monarchy; which that we should suffer, who only
and easily might have hinder'd, astonish'd all the world. Thus is the
poor Prince of Orange ruin'd, and this nation and all the Protestant
interest in Europe following, unlesse God in his infinite mercy, as by a
miracle, interpose, and our greate ones alter their counsels. The
French fleete were now besieging Genoa, but after burning much of
that beautifull citty with their bombs, went off with disgrace.
12 June. I went to advise and give directions about the building two
streetes in Berkeley Gardens, reserving the house and as much of the
garden as the breadth of the house. In the meane time I could not but
deplore that sweete place (by far the most noble gardens, courts, and ac
commodations, stately porticos, &c. any where about the towne) should
be so much straighten'd and turn'd Into tenements. But that magnificent
pile and gardens contiguous to it, built by the late Lord Chancellor Cla-

ann.come

574 1*6*4.
rendon, being all demolish'd, and design'd for Piazzas and buildings, was
some excuse for my Lady Berkeley's resolution of letting out her ground
also for so excessive a price as was offer'd, advancing neere ^£.1000 per
in mere ground-rents ; to such a mad intemperance was the age
of building about a citty, by far too disproportionate already to the
nation * : I having in my time seene it almost as large again as it was
within my memory.
11. My cousin Verney, to whom a very greate fortune was fallen,
came to take leave of us, going into the country ; a very worthy and
virtuous young gentleman.
22. Last Friday Sir Tho. Armstrong was executed at Tyburn for
treason, without tryal, having ben outlaw'd and apprehended in Hol
land, on the conspiracy of the Duke of Monmouth, Lord Russell, &c.
which gave occasion of discourse to people and lawyers, in reguard it
was on an outlawry that judgment was given and execution -h
2 July. I went to the Observatory at Greenewich, where Mr. Flam-
sted tooke his observations of the eclipse of the sun, now almost three
parts obscured.
There had been an excessive hot and dry Spring, and such a drought
still continu'd as never was in my memorie.
13 July. Some small sprinkling of raine ; the leaves dropping from
the trees as in Autumn.
25. I din'd at Lord Falkland's, Treasurer of the Navy, where after
dinner we had rare musiq, there being, amongst others, Sign1 Pietro
Reggio, and Sigr John Battist, both famous, one for his voice, the
other for playing on ye harpsicord, few if any in Europe exceeding
him. There was also a Frenchman who sung an admirable basse.
26. I return'd home where I found my Lord Cheife Justice [Jeffe
ries], the Countesse of Clarendon, and Lady Cath. Fitz-Gerald, who
dined with me.
* What would Mr. Evelyn think if he saw what is now called London ?
f When brought up for judgement Armstrong insisted on his right to a trial, the act giving that
right to those who came in within a year, and the year was not expired. Jefferies refused it ; and
when Armstrong insisted that he asked nothing but law, Jefferies told him he should have it to the
full, and ordered his execution in six days. When Jefferies went to the King at Windsor soon after
the trial, the King took a ring from his finger, and gave it to Jefferies. Burnet, II. 989.

1684.] 575
10 Aug. We had now rain after such a drowth as no man in Eng
land had known.
24, Excessive hot. We had not had above one or two considerable
showers, and those storms, these 8 or 9 months. Many trees died for
the want of refreshment.
31. Mr. Sidney Godolphin was made Baron Godolphin.
26 Sept. The King being return'd from Winchester, there was a
numerous Court at White-hall.
At this time the Earle of Rochester was remov'd from the Treasury
to the Presidentship of the Council ; Lord Godolphin was made first
Commissr of the Treasury in his place ; Lord Middleton (a Scot) made
Secretary of State, in ye room of Lord Godolphin. These alterations
being very unexpected and mysterious, gave greate occasion of discourse.
There was now an Ambassador from ye King of Siam in ye East In
dies to his Majesty.
22 Oct. I went with Sr William Godolphin to see the Rhinoceros, t
or Unicorn, being the first that I suppose was ever brought into Eng
land. She belong'd to some East India merchants, and was sold (as I
remember) for above ,§£.2000.
At the same time I went to see a Crocodile, brought from some of the
West India islands, resembling the Egyptian Crocodile.
24 Oct. I din'd at Sir Stephen Fox's with the Duke of Northum
berland. He seem'd to be a young gentleman of good capacity, well
bred, civil, and modest : newly come from travell, and had made his
campaigne at the siege of Luxemburg. Of all his Ma*s children (of
which he had now six Dukes) this seem'd the most accomplish'd and
worth the owning. He is extraordinary handsome and well shap'd.
What ye Dukes of Richmond and St. Alban's will prove, their youth
does not yet discover ; they are very pretty boys.
26. Dr. Goodman preach'd before the King on 2 James 12. con
cerning the law of liberty : an excellent discourse and in good method.
He is author of " The Prodigal Son," a treatise worth reading, and
another of the old Religion.
28. I carried Lord Clarendon thro' the Citty, amidst all the squibbs
and Bacchanalia of the Lord Maior's shew, to ye Royal Society [at

576 [1684.
Gresham Coll.] where he was propos'd a member; and then treated him
at dinner.
I went to St. Clement's, that pretty built and contriv'd church, where
a young divine gave us an eloquent Sermon on 1 Cor. 6. 20. inciting to
gratitude and glorifying God for the fabriq of our bodys & the dignitie
of our nature.
27. I visited the Lord Chamberlaine, where din'd the Hack Baron
and Mons' Flamerin, who had so long ben banish'd France for a duel.
2 Nov. A suddaine change from temperate warme weather to an ex
cessive cold raine, frost, snow, and storm, such as had seldome ben
known. This Winter weather began as early and fierce as the past
did late ; till about Christmas there then had ben hardly any Winter.
4. Dr. Turner, now translated from Rochester to Ely upon the death
of Dr. Peter Gunning, preached before the King at White-hall on
3 Romans 8, a very excellent sermon, vindicating the Church of Eng
land against the pernicious doctrines of the Church of Rome. He
challenged the producing but of five Cleargymen who forsooke our Church
and went over to that of Rome, during all the troubles & rebellion In
England, which lasted neere twenty yeares; and this was to my certaine
observation a greate truth.
15. Being the Queene's birth-day, there were fire-works on the
Thames before White-hall, with pageants of castles, forts, and other
devices of gyrondolas, serpents, the King and Queene's armes and
mottos, all represented in fire, such as had not ben seen here. But
the most remarkable was the severall fires and skirmishes in the very
water, which actually mov'd a long way, burning under the water, now
and then appearing above it, giving reports like muskets and cannon,
with granados and innumerable other devices. It is said it cost ,§£.1500.
It was concluded with a ball, where all the young ladys and gallants
daunced in the greate hall. The Court had not ben seene so brave and
rich in apparell since his Ma*'s Restauration.
30. In the morning Dr. Fiennes, sonn of the Lord Say & Seale,
preached before the King on 21 Joshua 11.
3 Dec. I carried Mr. Justell and Mr. Slingsby (Master of the
Mint), to see Mr. Sheldon's collection of Medaills. The series of

1684.] 577
Popes was rare, and so were several amongst the modernes, especialy
that of John Husse's martyrdome at Constance ; of the Roman Emp:
Consulars; some Greeke, &c. In copper, gold, and silver; not many
truly antique ; a medallion of Otho, P. JEmil. &c. hardly antient. They
were held at a price of ,§£.1000. but not worth, I judge, above .§£.200.
7 . I went to see the new church at St. James's, elegantly built ;
the altar was especialy adorn'd, the white marble inclosure curiously and
richly carved, the flowers and garlands about the walls by Mr. Gibbons
in wood ; a pelican with her young at her breast, just over the altar in
the carv'd compartment and border, invironing the purple velvet
fring'd with I. H. S. richly embroider'd, and most noble plate, were
given by Sr R. Geere, to the value (as was said) of ,§£.200. There
was no altar any where in England, nor has there ben any abroad,
more handsomely adorn'd.
17 '• Early in the morning I went into St. James's Park to see three
Turkish or Asian horses, newly brought over, and now first shewed to
his Ma*. There were foure, but one of them died at sea, being three
weekes coming from Hamborow. They were taken from a Bashaw at the
siege of Vienna, at the late famous raising that leaguer. I never beheld
so delicate a creature as one of them was, of somewhat a bright bay, two
white feet, a blaze ; such a head, eyes, cares, neck, breast, belly,
haunches, legs, pasterns, and feete, in all reguards beautifull and pro-
portion'd to admiration ; spirited, proud, nimble, making halt, turn
ing with that swiftnesse, and in so small a compasse, as was admirable.
With all this so gentle and tractable as call'd to mind what I remember
Busbequius speakes of them, to the reproch of our groomes in Europe,
who bring up their horses so churlishly as makes most of them retain
their 111 habits. They trotted like does, as if they did not feele the
ground. 500 glnnies was demanded for the first ; 300 for the second;
and 200 for the third, wch was browne. All of them were choicely
shap'd, but the two last not altogether so perfect as the first. It was
judg'd by the spectators, among whom was the King, Prince of Den
mark, Duke of Yorke, and several of the Court, noble persons, skill'd
In horses, especialy Mons. Faubert and his sonn, (provost masters of
yc Academie, and esteem'd of the best in Europe,) that there \yere
vol. 1. 4 E

578 • 1*6*4-
never seene any horses in these parts to be compar'd with them. Add
to all this, the furniture, consisting of embroidery on the saddle, house-
ings, quiver, bow, arrows, scymeter, sword, mace, or battle-axe a, la
Turcisq; the Bashaw's velvet mantle furr'd with the most perfect ermine
I ever beheld ; all which, yron-worke in common furniture, being here
of silver, curiously wrought and double gilt, to an incredible value.
Such and so extraordinary was the embrodery, that I never saw any
thing approching it. The reins and headstall were of crimson silk,
cover'd with chaines of silver gilt. There was also a Turkish royal
standard of an horse's taile, together with all sorts of other caparisons
belonging to a general's horse, by which one may estimate how gal
lantly and magnificently those infidels appeare in the field, for nothing
could be seene more glorious. The gentleman (a German) who rid
the horse was in all this garb. They were shod with yron made round
and closed at the heele, with a hole in the middle about as wide as a
shilling. The hoofes most intire.
18 Dec. I went with Lord Cornwallis to see the young gallants do
their exercise, Mr. Faubert having newly rail'd in a manage, and fitted
it for the academy. There were the Dukes of Norfolk and Northum
berland, Lord Newburgh, and a nephew of (Duras) Earle of Fever-
sham. The exercises were, 1. running at the ring ; 2. flinging a jave
lin at a Moor's head ; 3. discharging a pistol at a mark ; lastly, taking
up a gauntlet with the point of a sword ; all these perform'd in full
speede. The D. of Northumberland hardly miss'd of succeeding in
every one, a dozen times, as I think. The D. of Norfolk did exceed
ing bravely. Lords Newburgh and Duras seem'd nothing so dextrous.
Here I saw the difference of what ye French call " belle homme a cheval,"
and " bon homme a cheval;" the Duke of Norfolk being the first, that
is, rather a fine person on a horse, the Duke of Northumberland being
both in perfection, namely, a graceful person and excellent rider. But
the Duke of Norfolk told me he had not ben at this exercise these 12
yeares before. There were in the field ye Prince of Denmark, and the
Lord Landsdown, sonn of ye Earle of Bath, who had ben made a Count
of ye Empire last Summer for his service before Vienna.

1685-] 579
20. A villainous murder was perpetrated by Mr. St. John, eldest
son to S' Walter St. John, a worthy gentleman, on a knight of quality *,
in a tavern. The offender was sentenc'd and repriev'd. So many
horrid murders and duels were committed about this time as were never
before heard of in England, which gave much cause of complaint and
murmurings. 1685. 1 Jan. It prov'd so sharp weather, and so long and cruel a
frost, that the Thames was frozen acrosse, but the frost was often dis
solv'd, and then froze again.
11. A young man preached upon 13 St. Luke 5. after the Presby
terian tedious method and repetition.
24. I din'd at Lord Newport's, who has some excellent pictures,
especialy that of Sr Tho. Hanmer, by Van Dyke, one of the best he ever
painted ; another of our English Dobson's painting ; but above all,
Christ in the Virgin's lap by Poussin, an admirable piece, with some
thing of most other famous hands.
25. Dr. Dove preach'd before ye King. I saw this evening such a
scene of profuse gaming, and the King in the midst of his three con
cubines, as I had never before seen. Luxurious dallying and pro-
phanenesse. 27- I din'd at Lord Sunderland's, being invited to heare that cele
brated voice of Mr. Pordage, newly come from Rome ; his singing w,as
after the Venetian recitative, as masterly as could be, and with an ex
cellent voice both treble and basse ; Dr. Walgrave accompanied it with
his theorba lute, on which he perform'd beyond imagination, and is
doubtlesse orie of the greatest masters in Europe on that charming in
strument. Pordage is a priest, as Mr. Bernard Howard told me in
private. There was in the roome where we din'd, and in his bed-chamber,
those incomparable pieces of Columbus, a Flagellation, the Grammar-

* Sir William Estcourt. It was in a sudden quarrel, and there was doubt whether it was more
than manslaughter : but he was advised' to plead guilty, and then had a pardon,, for which he paid
sSl,600. Exactly 100 years before, one of his family was tried for a similar offence, acquitted, but
obliged to go abroad, though he was afterwards employed. Manning and Bray's Hist, of Surrey,
HI. 330. App. cxx.

580 [1685-
schoole, the Venus and Adonis of Titian ; and of Vandyke's that pic
ture of the late E. of Digby (father of yc Countess of Sunderland),
and Earle of Bedford, Sr Kenelm Digby, and two Ladys of incompara
ble performance; besides that of Moses and the burning bush of Bas
sano, and several other pieces of ye best masters. A marble head of
M. Brutus, &c.
28. I was invited to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, (now newly
released of his 6 yeares confinement in ye Tower on suspicion of the Plot
call'd Oates's Plot,) where after dinner the same Mr. Pordage enter
tain'd us with his voice, that excellent and stupendous artist Sign' Jo.
Baptist playing to it on the harpsichord. My daughter Mary being
with us, she also sung to the greate satisfaction of both the masters,
and a world of people of quality present.
She did so also at my Lord Rochester's the evening following, where
we had the French Boy so fam'd for his singing, and indeede he had a
delicate voice, and had ben well taught. I also heard Mrs. Packer
(daughter to my old friend) sing before his Ma* and the Duke, pri
vately, that stupendous basse Gosling accompanying her, but hers was
so loud as tooke away much of the sweetnesse. Certainly never woman
had a stronger or better eare, could she possibly have govern'd it. She
would dp rarely in a large church among the nunns.
4 Feb. I went to London, hearing his Ma* had ben the Monday
before (2 Feb.) surpriz'd in his bed-chamber with an apoplectic fit, so
that if, by God's providence, Dr. King (that excellent chirurgeon as
well as physitian) had not ben accidentally present to let him blood
(having his lancet in his pocket) his Ma* had certainly died that mo
ment, which might have ben of direful consequence, there being nobody
else present with the King save this Doctor and one more, as I am
assur'd. It was a mark of the extraordinary dexterity, resolution, and
presence of mind in the Dr, to let him bloud in the very paroxysm,
without staying the coming of other physitians, which regularly should
have ben don, and for want of which he must have a regular pardon,
as they tell me *. This rescu'd his Ma* for the instant, but it was
* The Privy Council approved of what he had done, and ordered him eg. 1000, but which Tvas
never paid him. Burnet, II. 1010*. — There are two fine portraits of Dr. King engraved, and in
mezzotinto, in which the above instance of his skill and promptitude is noticed.

1685.] 581
only a short reprieve. He still complain'd, and was relapsing, often
fainting, with sometimes epileptic symptoms, till Wednesday, for which
he was cupp'd, let bloud in both jugulars, had both vomit and purges,
vvch so rellev'd him that on Thursday hopes of recovery were signified in
the publiq Gazette, but that day, about noone, the physitians thought
him feaverish. This they seem'd glad of, as being more easily allay'd
and methodically dealt with than his former fits ; so as they prescrib'd
the famous Jesuits powder : but it made him worse, and some very
able Doctors who were present did not think it a fever, but the effect
of his frequent bleeding and other sharp operations us'd by them about
his head, so that probably the powder might stop the circulation, and
renew his former fits, which now made him very weake. Thus he
pass'd Thursday night with greate difficulty, when complaining of a
paine in his side, they drew 12 ounces more of bloud from him ; this
was by 6 in the morning on Friday, and it gave him reliefe, but it did
not continue, for being now in much paine, and strugling for breath,
he lay dozing, and after some conflicts, the physitians despairing of
him, he gave up the ghost at halfe an houre after eleven in the morning,
being the 6 of February 1685, in the 36th yeare of his reigne, and 54th
of his age.
Prayers were solemnly made in all the Churches, especialy in both ye
Court Chapells, where the Chaplaines reliev'd one another every halfe
quarter of an houre from the time he began to be in danger till he ex-
pir'd, according to the forme prescrib'd in the Church Offices. Those
who assisted his Majesty's devotions were, the Abp. of Canterbury, the
Bishops of London, Durham, and Ely, but more especialy Dr. Ken,
the Bp. of Bath and Wells *. It is sayd they exceedingly urg'd the
* The account given of this by King James II. is, that when the King's life was wholly de
spaired of, and it was time to prepare for another world, two Bishops came to do their function,
who reading the prayers appointed in the Common Prayer Book on that occasion, when they
came to the place where usually they exhort a sick person to make a confession of his sins, the
Bishop of Bath and Wells, who was one of them, advertized him, It was not of obligation; and
after a short exhortation asked him, if he were sorry for his sins ? which the King saying he was,
the Bishop pronounced the absolution, and then asked him if he pleased to receive the Sacrament ?
to which the King made no reply, and being pressed by the Bishop several times, gave no other
answer but that it was time enough, or that he would think of it. King James says that he stood

582 [1685-
receiving the Holy Sacrament, but his Ma* told them he would con
sider of it, which he did so long 'till it was too late. Others whis
per'd that the Bishops and Lords, except the Earles of Bath and
Feversham, being order'd to withdraw the night before, Hurlston, the
'Priest, had presumed to administer the Popish Offices. He gave his
breeches and keys to yc Duke, who was almost continually kneeling by
his bed-side, and in teares. He also recommended to him the care of
his natural children, all except the Duke of Monmouth, now in Hol
land, and in his displeasure. He intreated the Queene to pardon him
(not without cause) ; who a little before had sent a Bishop to excuse
her not more frequently visiting him, in reguard of her excessive griefe,
and withall, that his Ma* would forgive it if at any time she had
offended him. He spake to ye Duke to be kind to the Dutchesse of
Cleaveland, and especialy Portsmouth, and that Nelly might not starve.
Thus died King Charles II. of a vigorous and robust constitution,
and in all appearance promising a long life. He was a Prince of many
virtues, and many greate imperfections ; debonaire, easy of accesse,
not bloudy nor cruel ; his countenance fierce, his voice greate, proper
of person, every motion became him ; a lover of the sea, and skilfull in
shipping; not affecting other studies, yet he had a laboratory, and
knew of many empyrical medicines, and the easier mechanical mathe
matics; he lov'd planting and building, and brought in a politer way
of living, which pass'd to luxury and intolerable expence. He had a
particular talent in telling a story, and facetious passages, of which he
had innumerable ; this made some buffoons and vitious wretches too
presumptuous and familiar, not worthy the favour they abus'd. He

all the while by the bed-side, and seeing the King would not receive the Sacrament from them,
and knowing his sentiments, he desired the company to stand a little from the bed, and then
asked the King whether he should send for a Priest, to which the King replied, " For God's sake,
brother, do, and lose no time." The Duke said he would bring one to him ; but none could be
found except father Huddleston, who had been so assistant in the King's escape from Worcester ;
he was brought up by a back staircase, and the company were desired to withdraw, but he
(the Duke of York) not thinking fit that he should be left alone with the King, desired the
Earl of Bath, a Lord of the Bedchamber, and the Earl of Feversham, Captain of the Guard, should
stay ; the rest being gone, father Huddleston was introduced, and administered the Sacrament.
Life of James II. p. 74?.

1685.] 583
tooke delight in having a number of little spaniels follow him and lie
in his bed-chamber, where he often suffer'd the bitches to puppy and
give suck, which render'd it very offensive, and indeede made the whole
Court nasty and stinking. He would doubtlesse have ben an excellent
Prince, had he ben less addicted to women, who made him uneasy, '
and allways in want to supply their unmeasurable profusion, to ye
detriment of many Indigent persons who had signaly serv'd both him
and his father. He frequently and easily chang'd favorites, to his
greate prejudice. As to other publiq transactions and unhappy mis
carriages, .'tis not here I intend to number them ; but certainly never
had King more glorious opportunities to have made himselfe, his
people, and all Europe happy, and prevented innumerable mischeifs,
had not his too easy nature resign'd him to be manag'd by crafty men,
and some abandon'd and profane wretches who corrupted his otherwise
sufficient parts, disciplin'd as he had ben by many afflictions during his
banishment, which gave him much experience and knowledge of men
and things ; but those wicked creatures took him off from all applica
tion becoming so greate a King. The history of his reigne will cer-
tainely be the most wonderfull for the variety of matter and accidents,
above any extant in former ages : the sad tragical death of his father,
his banishment and hardships, his miraculous restauration, conspira
cies against him, parliaments, wars, plagues, fires, comets, revolutions
abroad happening in his time, with a thousand other particulars. He
was ever kind to me, and very gracious upon all occasions, and there- ?
fore I cannot, without ingratitude, but deplore his losse, which for
many respects as well as duty I do with all my soul.
His Majesty being dead, the Duke, now K. James II. went im
mediately to Council, and before entering into any businesse, pas
sionately declaring his sorrow, told their Lordships that since the suc
cession had fallen to him, he would endeavour to follow the example of
his predecessor in his clemency and tendernesse to his people ; that,
however he had ben misrepresented as affecting arbitrary power, they
should find the contrary, for that the Laws of England had made ye
King as greate a monarch as he could desire ; that he would endeavor
to maintain the Government both in Church and State, as by Law

584 [1685.
established, its principles being so firme for monarchy, and the mem
bers of it shewing themselves so good and loyal subjects * ; and that as
he would never depart from the just rights and prerogatives of y
Crown, so would he never invade any man's property ; but as he had
often adventur'd his life in defence of the Nation, so he would still
proceede, and preserve it in all its lawful rights and liberties.
This being the substance of what he said, the Lords desir'd it might
be publish'd, as containing matter of greate satisfaction to a jealous
people upon this change, which his Ma* consented to. Then were the
Counsel sworn, and a Proclamation order'd to be publish'd, that all
Officers should continue in their stations, that there might be no failure
of public justice, till his further pleasure should be known. Then the

* This is the substance anil very nearly in the words given by King James II. in his MS. printed
in his Life ; but in that MS. are some words which Mr. Evelyn has omitted, viz. after speaking of
the Members of the Church of England as good and loyal subjects, the King adds, and therefore
I shall always take care to defend and support it. The King then goes on to say, that being de
sired by some present to allow copies to be taken, he said he had not committed it to writing ; on
which Mr. Finch [then Solicitor General, afterwards Earl of Aylesford] replied, that what his
Jdajesty had said had made so deep an impression on him, that he believed he could repeat the
very words, and if his Majesty would permit hiin, he would write them down ; which the King
agreeing to, he went to a table and wrote them down, and this being shewn to the King, he ap
proved of it, and it was immediately published.
The King then goes on to say ; No one can wonder that Mr. Finch should word the speech as
strong as he could in favour of the Established Religion, nor that the King in such a hurry
should pass it over without reflection ; for though his Majesty intended to promise both security
to their religion and protection to their persons, he was afterwards convinced it had been better
expressed by assuring them he never would endeavour to alter the established Religion, rather
than that he would endeavour to preserve it, and that he would rather support and defend the
professors of it, rather than the Religion itself ; they could not expect he should make a con
science of supporting what in his conscience he thought erroneous ; his engaging not to molest
the professors of it, nor to deprive them or their successors of any spiritual dignity, revenue, or
employment, but to suffer the ecclesiastical affairs to go on in the track they were in, was all
they could wish or desire from a Prince of a different persuasion ; but having once approved that
way of expressing it which Mr. Finch had made choice of, he thought it necessary not to vary
from it in the declarations or speeches he made afterwards, not doubting but the world would
understand it in the meaning he intended.  'Tis true afterwards it was pretended he kept not
up to this engagement, but had they deviated no further from the duty and allegiance which both
nature and repeated oaths obliged them to, than he did from his word *, they had still remained
as happy a people as they really were during his short reign in England. Vol. II. 435.
* The wards in italics were afterwards interlined by the son of King James the Second. Edit.

1685.] 585
King rose, the Lords accompanying him to his bed-chamber, where,
whilst he repos'd himselfe, tired indeede as he was with griefe and
watching, they return'd againe Into the Council-chamber to take order
for the proclaiming his Ma*, which (after some debate) they consented
should be in the very forme his grandfather K. James I. was, after ye
death of Queene Elizabeth ; as likewise that the Lords, &c. should
.proceede in their coaches thro' the Citty for the more solemnity of it.
Upon this was I, and severall other Gentlemen waiting in the Privy-
gallerie, admitted into ye Council-chamber to be witnesse of what was
resolv'd on. Thence with the Lords, the Lord Marshall and Heraulds,
and other Crowne Officers being ready, we first went to White-hall-
gate, where the Lords stood on foote bare-headed, whilst the Herauld
proclaim'd his Majesty's title to the Imperial Crowne and Succession
according to ye forme, the trumpets and kettle-drums having first
sounded 3 times, which ended with the people's acclamations. Then a
Herauld call'd the Lords' coaches according to rank, myselfe accompa
nying the solemnity in my Lord Cornwallis's coach, first to Temple
Barr, where the Lord Maior and his brethren met us on horseback, in
all theire formalities, and proclaim'd the King ; hence to the Exchange
in Cornhlll, and so we return'd in the order we set forth. Being come
to White- hall, we all went and kiss'd the King and Queenes hands.
He had ben on ye bed, but was now risen and in his undresse. The
Queene was in bed in her appartment, but put forth her hand, seeming
to be much afflicted, as I believe she was, having deported herselfe so
decently upon all occasions since she came into England, which made
her universally belov'd.
Thus concluded this sad and not joyfull day.
I can never forget the inexpressible luxury and prophanenesse,
gaming and all dissoluteness, and as it were total forgetfullnesse of
God (it being Sunday evening) which this day se'nnight I was wit
nesse of, the King sitting and toying with his concubines, Portsmouth, »
Cleaveland, and Mazarine, &c a French boy singing love songs, in that
glorious gallery, whilst about 20 of the greate courtiers and other
dissolute persons were at Basset round a large table, a bank of at
least 2000 in gold before them, upon which two gentlemen who were
vol. i. 4 F

,586 [1685-
with me made reflexions with astonishment. Six days after was all
in the dust !
It was enjoyn'd that those who put on mourning should wear it as
for a father, in ye most solemn manner.
10 Feb. Being sent to by the Sheriff of the County to appeare and
assist in proclayming the King, I went the next day to Bromely, where
I met the Sheriff and the Commander of the Kentish Troop, with an
appearance, I suppose, of above 500 horse, and innumerable people,
two of his Ma*'s trumpets and a Serjeant with other officers, who having
drawn up the horse in a large field neere the towne, march'd thence,
wifh swords drawne, to the market-place, where making a ring, after
sound of trumpets and silence made, the High Sheriff read the pro
claiming titles to his Bailiffe, who repeated them aloud, and then after
many shouts of the people, his Ma*'s health being drunk in a flint
glasse of a yard long, by the Sheriff, Commander, Officers and cheife
Gentlemen, they all dispers'd, and I return'd.
13. I pass'd a fine on selling of Honson Grange in Staffordshire,
being about ^.20 per ann., which lying so greate a distance I thought
fit to part with it to one Burton, a farmer there. It came to me as part
of my daughter-in-law's portion, this being but a fourth part of what
was divided betweene ye mother and three sisters.
14. The King was this, night very obscurely buried* in a vault
under Hen. 7th's Chapell at Westminster, without any manner of pomp,
and soone forgotten after all this vanity, and the face of the whole
Court was exceedingly chang'd into a more solemn and moral- be
haviour ; the new King affecting neither prophanenesse nor buffoonery.

* The funeral could not be performed with so great solemnity as some persons expected,
because his late Majesty dying in, and his present Majesty professing, a different Religion from
that of his people, it had been a difficult matter to reconcile the greater ceremonies which must
have been performed according to the Rites of the Church of England, with the obligation of not
communicating with it in spiritual things ; to avoid, therefore, either disputes on one hand, or
scandal on the other, it was thought more prudent to do it in a more private manner, though at
the same time there was no circumstance of state and pomp omitted, which possibly could be
allowed of. All the Privy Council, all the household, and all the Lords about towne attended at
th« funeral. Life of King James II. vol. II. p. 6.

1685.] 587
All the greate Officers broke their staves over the grave, according
to form.
15. Dr. Tenison preach'd to the Household. The second sermon
should have ben before the King; but he, to the greate griefe of his
subjects, did now for the first time go to masse publickly in ye little
Oratorie at the Duke's lodgings, the doors being set wide open.
16. I din'd at S1' Rob' Howard's, Auditor of the Exchequer, a gen
tleman pretending to all manner of arts and sciences, for which he
had ben the subject of Comedy, under the name of Sir Positive; not
ill-natur'd, but insufferably boasting. He was sonn to the late Earl of
Berkshire. 17- This morning his Ma* restor'd the staffe and key to Lord
Arlington, Chamberlaine ; to Mr. Savell, Vice-chamberlaine ; to Lords
Newport and Malnard, Treasurer and Comptroler of the Household ;
Lord Godolphin made Chamberlaine to ye Queene ; Lord Peterborow
Groome of ye Stole in place of the Earle of Bath ; the Treasurer's staff
to the Earle of Rochester; and his brother the Earle of Clarendon
Lord Privie Seale in place of the Marquis of Halifax, who was made
President of the Council ; the Secretarys of State remaining as before.
19. The Lord Treasurer and yc other new Officers were sworne at
the Chancery Barr and the Exchequer.
The late King having the revenue of Excise, Costoms, and other late
duties granted for his life only, they were now farmed and lett to
severall persons, upon an opinion that the late King might lett them
for three yeares after his decease ; some of the old Commissioners
refus'd to act. The lease was made but the day before the King died *;
the major part of the Judges (but as some think not the best Lawyers)
pronounc'd it legal, but four dissented.
The Clerk of the Closet had shut up the late King's private Oratorie
next the Privy-chamber above, but the King caus'd it to be open'd
againe, and that prayers should be said as formerly.

* King James, in his Life, makes no mention of this lease, but only says he continued to collect
them, which conduct was not blamed ; but on the contrary, he was thanked for it in an address
from the Middle Temple, penned by Sir Bartholomew Shore, and presented by Sir Humphrey.
Mackworth, carrying great authority with it, nor did the Parliament find fault. Vol. II. pp. 16, 1 7.

588 l*6*5-
22. Several most useful Tracts against Dissenters, Papists, and
Fanatics, and Resolutions of Cases, were now publish'd by the London
Divines. 4 Mar. Ash- Wednesday ; after evening prayers I went to London.
5. To my griefe I saw the new pulpit set up in the Popish Oratorie
at White-hall for the Lent preaching, masse being publicly said, and
the Romanists swarming at Court with greater confidence than had ever
ben seene in England since the Reformation, so as every body grew
jealous to what this would tend.
A Parliament was now summon'd, and greate industry us'd to
obtaine elections which might promote the Court interest, most of
the Corporations being now by their new Charters impower'd to make
what returnes of members they pleas'd.
There came over divers envoyes and greate persons to condole the
death of the late King, who were receiv'd by the Queene Dowager on
a bed of mourning, the whole chamber, cieling and floore hung with
black, and tapers were lighted, so as nothing could be more lugubrous
and solemne. The Queene Consort sat out under a state on a black
foot-cloth, to entertaine the circle (as the Queene us'd to do), and that
very decently.
6. Lent Preachers continu'd as formerly in the Royal Chapell.
7 . My daughter Mary was taken with the small pox, and there
soon was found no hope of her recovery. A very greate affliction to
me : but God's holy will be done.
10. She receiv'd the blessed Sacrament; after which, disposing
herselfe to suffer what God should determine to inflict, she bore the
remainder of her sicknesse with extraordinary patience and piety, and
more than ordinary resignation and blessed frame of mind. She died
the 14th, to our unspeakable sorrow and affliction, and not to ours onely,
but that of all who knew her, who were many of the best quality,
greatest and most virtuous persons. The justnesse of her stature, person,
comelinesse of countenance, gracefull nesse of motion, unaffected tho'
more than ordinary beautifull, were the least of her ornaments compared
with those of her mind. Of early piety, singularly religious, spending
a part of every day in private devotion, reading and other vertuous exer-

1685-] 589
eises ; she had collected and written out many of the most usefull and
judicious periods of the books she read in a kind of common-place, as
out of Dr. Hammond on the New Testament, and most of the best
practical treatises. She had read and digested a considerable deale of
history and of places. The French tongue was as familiar to her as
English ; she understood Italian, and was able to render a laudable
account of what she read and observed, to which assisted a most faithful
memory and discernment ; and she did make very prudent and discreete
reflexions upon what she had observed of the conversations among
which she had at any time ben, which being continualy of persons of
the best quality, she thereby improved. She had an excellent voice, to
which she play'd a thorough-bass on the harpsichord, in both which she
arived to that perfection, that of the schollars of those two famous mas
ters Signors Pietro and Bartholomeo she was esteem'd the best ; for the
sweetnesse of her voice and management of it added such an agreeable-
nesse to her countenance, without any constraint or concerne, that when
she sung, it was as charming to the eye as to the eare ; this I rather note,
because it was a universal remarke, and for which so many noble and
judicious persons in musiq desired to heare her, the last being at Lord
Arundel's of Wardour (see p. 543). What shall 1 say, or rather not say,
of the cheerefullness and agreeablenesse of her humour ? condescend
ing to the meanest servant in the family, or others, she still kept up
respect, without- the least pride. She would often reade to them, exa
mine, instruct, and pray with them if they were sick, so as she was ex
ceedingly beloved of every body. Piety was so prevalent an ingredient in
her constitution (as I may say) that even amongst equals and superiors
she no sooner became intimately acquainted, but she would endeavour
to improve them, by insinuating something of religious, and that tended
to bring them to a love of devotion ; she had one or two confidents
with whom she used to passe whole dayes In fasting, reading and
prayers, especialy before the monethly communion and other solemn
occasions. She abhorr'd flattery, and tho' she had aboundance of witt,
the raillery was so innocent and ingenuous that it was most agreeable ;
she sometimes would see a play, but since the stage grew licentious,
express'd herselfe weary of them, and the time spent at the theater was

590 [*6*5-
an unaccountable vanity. She never play'd at cards without extreame
importunity and for the company, but this was so very seldome that I
cannot number it among any thing she could name a fault. No one could
read prose or verse better or with more judgment; and as she read, so
she writ, not only most correct orthography, with that maturitie of
judgment and exactnesse of the periods, choice of expressions, and fa
miliarity of stile, that some letters of hers have astonish'd me and others
to whom she has occasionally written. She had a talent of rehersing
any comical part or poeme, as to them she might be decently free with
was more pleasing than heard on yb theater; she daunc'd with the
greatest grace I had ever seene, and so would her master say, who was
Monsr Isaac; but she seldome shew'd that perfection, save in the
gracefullnesse of her carriage, which was with an aire of spritely mo-
destie not easily to be described. Nothing affected, but natural and
easy as well in her deportment as in her discourse, which was always
materiall, not trifling, and to which the extraordinary sweetnesse of
her tone, even in familiar speaking, was very charming. Nothing was
so pretty as her descending to play with little children, whom she would
caresse and humour with greate delight. But she most affected to be
with grave and sober men, of whom she might learne something, and
improve herselfe. I have ben assisted by her in reading and praying
by me; comprehensive of uncommon notions, curious of knowing every
thing to some excesse, had I not sometimes repressed it. Nothing was
so delightfull to her as to go into my study, where she would willingly
have spent whole dayes, for as I sayd she had read aboundance of his
tory, and all the best poets, even Terence, Plautus, Homer, Virgil,
Horace, Ovid ; all the .best romances and modern poemes ; she could
compose happily, and put in pretty symbols, as in the Mundus Mulie
bris*, wherein is an enumeration of the immense variety of the modes
and ornaments belonging to the sex ; but all these are vaine trifles to
the virtues which adorn'd her soule ; she was sincerely religious, most
dutifull to her parents, whom she lov'd with an affection temper'd with
greate esteeme, so as we were easy and free^ and never were so well
* A poem of Mr. Evelyn's.

1685.] 591
pleas'd as when she was with us, nor needed we other conversation ;
she was kind to her sisters, and was still improving them by her con
stant course of piety. Oh deare, sweete, and desireable child, how shall
I part with all this goodness and virtue without the bittemesse of sor
row and reluctancy of a tender parent ! Thy affection, duty, and love
to me was that of a friend as well as a child. Nor lesse deare to thy
mother, whose example and tender care of thee was unparellel'd, nor was
thy returne to her lesse conspicuous ; Oh ! how she mourns thy loss !
how desojate hast thou left us ! To the grave shall we both carry thy
memory !
God alone (in whose bosom thou art at rest and happy !) give us to
resigne thee and all our contentments (for thou indeede wert all in this
world) to his blessed pleasure ! Let him be glorified by our submission,
and give us grace to blesse him for the graces he implanted in thee, thy
virtuous life, pious and holy death, which is indeede the onely comfort
of our soules, hastening thro' the infinite love and mercy of the Lord
Jesus to be shortly with thee, deare child, and with thee and those
blessed saints like thee, glorifye the Redeemer of the world to all eter
nity ! Amen !
It was in the 19th year of her age that this sicknesse happen'd to her.
An accident contributed to this disease ; she had an apprehension of it
in particular, and which struck her but two days before she came home,
by an imprudent gentlewoman whom she went with Lady Falkland
to visite, who after they had ben a good while in the house, told them
she had a servant sick of the small pox (who indeede died the next
day) ; this my poore child acknowledg'd made an impression on her
spirits. There were foure gentlemen of quality offering to treate with
me about marriage, and I freely gave her her owne choice, knowing
her discretion. She showed great indifference to marrying at all, for
truly, says she to her mother (the other day), were I assur'd of your
life and my deare father's, never would I part from you ; I love you and
this home, where we serve God, above all things, nor ever shall I be so
happy ; I know and consider the vicissitudes of the world, I have some
experience of its vanities, and but for decency more than inclination,
and that you judge it expedient for me, I would not change my condi-

592 [1685.
tion, but rather add the fortune you designe me to my sisters, and
keepe up the reputation of our family, This was so discreetly and sin
cerely utter'd that it could not but proceede from an extraordinary child,
and one who lov'd her parents beyond example.
At London she tooke this fatal disease, and the occasion of her being
there was this ; my Lord Viscount Falkland's Lady having ben our
neighbour (as he was Treasurer of the Navy), she tooke so greate an
affection to my daughter, that when they went back in the autumn to
the Citty, nothing would satisfie their incessant importunity but letting
her accompany my Lady, and staying sometime with her ; it was with
yc greatest reluctance I complied. Whilst she was there, my Lord
being musical, when I saw my Lady would not part with her till
Christmas, I was not unwilling she should improve the opportunity of
learning of Signr Pietro, who had an admirable way both of composure
and teaching. It was the end of February before I could prevail with
my Lady to part with her ; but my Lord going into Oxfordshire to stand
for Knight of the Shire there, she express'd her wish to come home,
being tir'd of ye vain and empty conversation of the towne, ye theatres,
the court, and trifling visites wch consum'd so much precious time, and
made her sometimes misse of that regular course of piety that gave her
ye greatest satisfaction. She was weary of this life, and I think went
not thrice to Court all this time, except when her mother or I carried
her. She did not affect shewing herselfe, she knew ye Court well,
and pass'd one summer in it at Windsor with Lady Tuke one of the
Queene's women of the bed chamber (a most virtuous relation of hers) ;
she was not fond of that glittering scene, now become abominably li
centious, though there was a designe of Lady Rochester and Lady Cla
rendon to have made her a maid of honour to the Queene as soon as
there was a vacancy. But this she did not set her heart upon, nor in
deede on any thing so much as the service of God, a quiet and regular
life, and how she might improve herselfe in the most necessary accom
plishments, and to wch she was ariv'd at so greate a measure.
This is y° little history and imperfect character of my deare child,
whose piety, virtue, and incomparable endowments deserve a monu
ment more durable than brasse and marble. Precious is the memorial

1685-] 593
of the just. Much I could enlarge on every peribd of this hasty ac
count, but that I ease and discharge my overcoming passion for the
present, so many things worthy an excellent Christian and dutifull
child crowding upon me. Never can I say enough, oh deare, my deare
child, whose memory is so precious to me !
This deare child was born at Wotton in the same house and chamber
in which I first drew my breath, my wife having retir'd to my brother
there in the great sicknesse that yeare upon the first of that moneth, and
neere the ve'ry houre that I was borne, upon the last : viz. October.
16 March. She was interr'd in the South-east end of the Church at
Deptford, neere her grandmother and severall of my younger children
and relations. My desire was she should have ben carried and layed
among my own parents and relations at Wotton, where I desire to be
interr'd myselfe, when God shall call me out of this uncertaine transi
tory life, but some circumstances did not permit it. Our vicar Dr.
Holden preach'd her funeral sermon on 1 Phil. 21. " For to me to
live is Christ and to die is gaine," upon which he made an apposite
discourse, as those who heard it assur'd me (for griefe suffer'd me not
to be present), concluding with a modest recital of her many virtues
and signal piety, so as to draw both teares and admiration from the
hearers. I was not altogether unwilling that something of this sort
should be spoken, for the edification and encouragement of other young
people. Divers noble persons honour'd her funeral, some in person, others
sending their coaches, of wch there were six or seven with six horses,
viz. the Countesse of Sunderland, Earle of Clarendon, Lord Godol
phin, Sr Stephen Fox, Sr Wm Godolphin, Viscount Falkland, and
others. There were distributed amongst her friends about 60 rings.
Thus liv'd, died, and was buried the joy of my life, and ornament
of her sex and of my poore family ! God Almighty of his infinite
mercy grant me the grace thankfully to resigne myselfe and all I have,
or had, to his Divine pleasure, and in his good time, restoring health
and comfort to my family : " teach me so to number my days that I
may apply my heart to wisdom," be prepar'd for my dissolution, and
that into the hands of my blessed Saviour I may recommend my
spirit ! Amen !
vol. i. 4 G

594 [168&.
On looking into her closet, it is incredible what a number of collec
tions she had made from historians, poetes, travellers, &c. but above all
devotions, contemplations, and resolutions on these contemplations,
found under her hand in a booke most methodicaly dispos'd ; prayers,
meditations, and devotions on particular occasions, with many pretty
letters to her confidants ; one to a divine (not nam'd) to whom she
writes that he would be her ghostly father, and would not despise her
for her many errors and the imperfections of her youth, but beg of God
to give her courage to acquaint him with all her faults, imploring his
assistance and spiritual directions. I well remember she had often de
sir'd me to recommend her to such a person, but I did not think fit
to do it as yet, seeing her apt to be scrupulous, and knowing the great
innocency and integrity of her life.
It is astonishing how one who had acquir'd such substantial and
practical knowledge in other ornamental parts of education, especialy
music both vocal and instrumental, In dauncing, paying and receiving
visites, and necessary conversation, could accomplish halfe of what she
has left; but as she never affected play or cards, which consume a
world of precious time, so she was in continual exercise, which yet
abated nothing of her most agreeable conversation. But she was a
little miracle while she liv'd, and so she died !
26 Mar. I was invited to the funerall of Capt. Gunman, that excel
lent pilot and seaman, who had behav'd himselfe so valiantly in the
Dutch warr. He died of a gangrene, occasion'd bv his fall from the
pier of Calais. This was the Captain of the yatcht carrying the Duke
(now King) to Scotland, and was accus'd for not giving timely warn
ing when she split on the sands, where so many perish'd ; but I am
most confident he was no ways guilty, either of negligence or designe,
as he made appeare not onely at the examination of the matter of fact,
but in the Vindication he shew'd me, and which must needes give any
man of reason satisfaction. He was a sober, frugal, cheerfull, and
temperate man ; we have few such seamen left.
8 April. Being now somewhat compos'd after my greate affliction,
I went to London to hear Dr. Tenison (it being on a Wednesday in
Lent) at White-hall. I observ'd that tho' the King was not in his

*6*5.] 595
seate above in the chapell, the Doctor made his three congees, which
they were not us'd to do when the late King was absent, making then
one bowing onely. I ask'd the reason ; it was sayd he had a special
order so to do. The Princesse of Denmark was in the King's Closet,
but sat on the left hand of the chaire, the Clearke of the Closet stand
ing by His Ma*s chaire, as If he had ben present.
I met the Queene Dowager going now first from White-hall to dwell
at Somerset-house.
This day my brother of Wotton and Mr. Onslow were candidates for
Surrey against Sr Adam Brown and my cousin Sr Edwd Evelyn, and
were circumvented in their election by a trick of the Sheriff's* taking
advantage of my brother's party going out of the small village of Lea-
therhead to seek shelter and lodging, the afternoone being tempestuous,
proceeding to the Election when they were gon ; they expecting the
next morning ; whereas before and then they exceeded the other party
by many hundreds, as I am assur'd. The Duke of Norfolk led Sr
Edw. Evelyn's and Sr Adam Brown's party. For this Parliament,
very meane and slight persons (some of them gentlemen's servants,
clearkes, and persons neither of reputation nor interest) were set up,
but the country would choose my brother whether he would or no, and
he miss'd it by the trick above mentioned. Sr Adam Brown was so
deafe that he could not heare one word. S1 Edw. Evelyn -f was an ho
nest gent" much in favour with his Majesty.
10. I went early to White-hall to heare Dr. Tillotson, Deane of
Canterbury, preaching on 9 Eccles. 18. I returned in the evening, and
visited Lady Tuke, and found with her Sr Geo, Wakeman, the physi
tian, whom I had seene tried and acquitted J, amongst the plotters for
poisoning the late King, on the accusation of the famous Oates ; ' and
surely I believ'd him guiltlesse.

* Mr. Samuel Lewen. His name does not appear in the History of Surrey amongst the land
owners, but it is there stated that in 1709 Sir William Lewen purchased the rectory of Ewel, and
that he was Lord Mayor of London in 1717- Vol. I. 470.
f His seat was at Long Ditton, near Kingston, which town had surrendered their charter to
King Charles II. about a month before his death. King James appointed Sir Edward Evelyn one
of the new Corporation. + P. 509.

596 [1685.
14. According to my costome I went to London to passe the holy
weeke. 17. Good Friday. Dr. Tenison preached at the new church at St.
James's, on 1 Cor. 16, 22, upon the infinite love of God to us, which
he illustrated in many instances. The holy Sacrament followed, at
which I participated. The Lord make me thankfull. In tbe after
noone Dr. Sprat, Bp. of Rochester, preached in Whitehall Chapell, the
auditory very full of Lords, the two Archbishops, and many others,
now drawne to towne upon the occasion of the Coronation and ensuing
Parliament. I supp'd with the Countesse of Sunderland and Lord
Godolphin, and return'd home.
23. Was the Coronation of the King and Queene. The solemnity
was magnificent, as is set forth in print. The Bp. of Ely preach'd ;
but, to the greate sorrow of the people, no Sacrament, as ought to have
ben. However the King begins his reigne with greate expectations,
and hopes of much reformation as to the late vices and prophanenesse
both of Court and Country. Having ben present at the late King's
Coronation, I was not ambitious of seeing this ceremonie.
3 May. A young man preach'd, going chaplain with Sir Jo. Wi-
burn, Governor of Bombay in the East Indies.
' 7 • I was m Westm1 Hall when Oates, who had made such a stir
in the kingdom, on his revealing a Plot of the Papists, and alarm'd se
veral Parliaments, and had occasioned the execution of divers Priests,
Noblemen*, &c. was tried for perjurie at the King's Bench ; but being
very tedious, I did not endeavour to see the issue, considering that it
would be published. Aboundance of Roman Catholics were in the Hall
in expectation of the most gratefull conviction and ruine of a person
who* had ben so obnoxious to them, and, as I verily believe, had don
much mischeife and greate injury to several by his violent and ill-
grounded proceedings ; whilst he was at first so unreasonably blowne
up and encouraged, that his insolence was no longer sufferable.
Mr. Roger L'Estrange (a gentleman whom I had long known, and
a person of excellent parts abating some affectations) appearing first
* Page 509.

1685.] 597
against the Dissenters in several Tracts, had now for some yeares
turn'd his style against those whom (by way of hateful distinction) they
call'd Whiggs and Trimmers, under the title of Observator, which
came out 3 or 4 days every weeke, in which sheets, under pretence to
serve the Church of England, he gave suspicion of gratifying another
party, by several passages which rather kept up animosities than ap-
peas'd them, especialy now that nobody gave the least occasion*.
10. The Scots valueing themselves exceedingly to have ben ye first
Parliament call'd by his Ma*, gave the Excise and Costomes to him and
his successors for ever; yfc D. of Queensberry making eloquent speeches,
and especialy minding them of a speedy suppression of those late despe
rate Field-Conventiclers who had done .such unheard-of assassinations.
In the meane time elections for the ensueing Parliament in England
were thought to be very indirectly carried on in most places. God
grant a better issue of it than some expect !
16. Oates was sentenced to- be whipped and pilloried with the
utmost severity.
21 May. I din'd at my Lord Privy Seale's with Sr Wm Dugdale,
Garter King at Armes, author of the Monasticon and other learned
workes : he told me he was 82 yeares of age, and had his sight and
memory perfect f. There was shewn a draught of ye exact shape and
dimensions of the Crowne the Queene had been crown'd withall,
together with the Jewells and pearles ; their weight and value, wch
amounted to ^.100,658 sterling, attested at the foote of the paper by
the jeweller and goldsmith who sett them.
22. In the morning I went with a French gentleman, and my
Lord Privy Seale, to the House of Lords, where we were plac'd by his
lordship next the Bar, just below yc Bishops, very commodiously both

* In the first Dutch war, whilst Mr. Evelyn was one of the Commissioners for sick and
wounded, Mr. L'Estrange in his Gazette mentioned the barbarous usage of the Dutch prisoners of
war ; Mr. Evelyn wrote him a very spirited letter, desiring that the Dutch Ambassador (who was
then in England) and his friends would visit the prisoners, and examine their provisions; and he
desired Mr. L'Estrange would publish his vindication in his next number.
f Sir Isaac Heard, the present Garter King at Arms, is about the same age, and in equal pos
session of his faculties (1816.)

598 [1685.
for hearing and seeing. After a short space came in ye Queene and
Princesse of Denmark, and stood next above the Archbishops, at the
side of the House on the right hand of the throne. In the interim
divers of the Lords, who had not finish'd before, tooke the Test and
usual Oathes, so that her Ma*, the Spanish and other Ambassadors,
who stood behind the throne, heard the Pope and worship of the Virgin
Mary, &c. renounc'd very decently, as likewise the prayers which fol
low'd, standing all the while. Then came in the King, the Crowne on
his head, and being seated, the Commons were introduced, and the House
being full, he drew forth a paper containing his speech, which he read
distinctly enough, to this effect : " That he resolv'd to call a Parliament
from the moment of his brother's decease, as the best meanes to settle
all the concernes of the Nation, so as to be most easy and happy to
himselfe and his subjects; that he would confirme whatever he had said
in his declaration at the first Council concerning his opinion of the prin
ciples of the Church of England, for their loyaltie, and would defend
and support it, and preserve its government as by law now establish'd ;
that, as he would invade no man's property, so he would never depart
from his owne prerogative ; and as he had ventur'd his life in defence
of the Nation, so he would proceede to do still; that, having given this
assurance of his care of our Religion (his word was your Religion) and
Property (wch he had not said by chance but solemnly), so he doubted
not of suitable returnes of his subjects duty and kindnesse, especialy as
to settling his Revenue for life, for yte many weighty necessities of go
vernment, weh he would not suffer to be precarious ; that some might
possibly suggest that it were better to feede and supply him from time
to time only, out of their inclination to frequent Parliaments, but that
that would be a very improper method to take with him, since the best
way to engage him to meete oftener would be always to use him well,
and therefore he expected their compliance speedily, that this Session
being but short, they might meet againe- to satisfaction." At .every
period of this the House gave loud shouts. Then he acquainted them
with that morning's news of Argyle's being landed in the West High
lands of Scotland from Holland, and the treasonous declaration he had
published, which he would communicate to them, and that he should

1685.] 599
take the best care he could it should meete with the reward It deserv'd,
not questioning the Parliament's zeale and readinesse to assist him as
he desir'd ; at which there follow'd another Vive le Roi, and so his
Ma* retlr'd.
So soone as ye Commons were return'd and had put themselves into a
grand Committee, they immediately put the question, and unanimously
voted the Revenue to his Ma* for life. Mr. Seymour made a bold
speech against many Elections, and would have had those members who
(he pretended) were obnoxious, to withdraw, till they had clear'd the
matter of their being legally return'd ; but no one seconded him. The
truth is, there were many of the new members whose Elections and Re
turns were universally censur'd, many of them being persons of no con
dition or interest in the Nation, or places for which they serv'd, espe
cially in Devon, Cornwall, Norfolk, &c. said to have ben recommended
by the Court and from the effect of the new charters changing ye elec
tors. It was reported that Lord Bath carried down with him [into
Cornwall] no fewer than 15 charters, so that some call'd him the Prince
Elector ; whence Seymour told the House in his speech that if this was
digested, they might introduce what religion and lawes they pleas'd,
and that tho' he never gave heed to ye feares and jealousies of the peo
ple before, he now was really apprehensive of Popery. By the printed
list of Members of 505 there did not appeare to be above 135 who had
ben in former Parliaments, especialy that lately held at Oxford.
In ye Lords House Lord Newport made an exception against two or
three young Peeres, who wanted some moneths, and some only four or
five daies of being of age.
The Popish Lords who had ben sometime before releas'd from their
confinement about the Plot, were now discharg'd of their impeachment,
of wch I gave Lord Arundel of Wardour joy.
Oates, who had but two dayes before ben pilloried at severall places
and whipt at ye carts taile from Newgate to Aldgate, was this day plac'd
on a sledge, being not able to go by reason of so late scourging, and
dragg'd from prison to Tyburn, and whipt againe all ye way, which
some thought to be very severe and extraordinary ; but if he was guilty
of the perjuries, and so of the death of many innocents, as I feare he

600 [1685.
was, his punishment was but what he deserv'd. I chanc'd to pass just
as execution was doing on him. A strange revolution !
Note : there was no speech made by the Lord Keeper [Bridgeman]
after his Ma*, as usual.
It was whisper'd he would not be long in that situation, and many
believe the bold Cheif Justice Jefferies, who was made Baron of Wem
in Shropshire, and who went thorough stitch in that tribunal, stands
fair for that office. I gave him joy the morning before of his new
honour, he having always ben very civil to me.
24 May. We had hitherto not any raine for many moneths, so as ye
caterpillars had already devour'd all yc winter fruite thro' the whole land,
and even kill'd severall greater old trees. Such two winters and sum
mers I had never knowne.
4 June. Came to visite and take leave~of me Sr Gab. Sylvius, now
going Envoy extraordinary into Denmark, with his Secretary and Chap
laine, a Frenchman, who related the miserable persecution of the Pro
testants in France ; not above 10 Churches left them, and those also
threaten'd to be demolish'd ; they were commanded to christen their
children within 24 houres after birth, or else a Popish Priest was to be
call'd, and then yc infant brought up in Popery. In some places they
were 30 leagues from any minister or opportunity of worship. " This
persecution had displeas'd the most industrious part of ye nation, and
dispers'd those into Swisse, Burgundy, Holland, Germany, Denmark,
England, and the Plantations. There were with Sr Gabriel, his lady,
Sr Wm Godolphin and sisters, and my Lord Godolphin's little son, my
charge. I brought them to the water side where Sir Gabriel embark'd,
and the rest return'd to London.
14. There was now certaine intelligence of the Duke of Monmouth
landing at Lyme in Dorsetshire, and of his having set up his standard
as King of England. I pray God deliver us from the confusion which
these beginnings threaten !
Such a dearth for want of raine was never in my memory.
17- The Duke landed with but 150 men, but the whole Kingdom
was alarm'd, fearing triat the disaffected would joyn them, many of the
train'd bands flocking to him. At his landing he publish'd a declara-

1685.] 601
tion, charging his Ma* with usurpation and several horrid crimes, on
pretence of his owne title, and offering to call a free Parliament. This
declaration was order'd to be burnt by the hangman, the Duke pro
claim'd a traytor, and a reward of ,^.5,000 to any who should kill him.
At this time the words engraved on the monument in London, inti
mating that the Papists fir'd the Citty, were erased and cut out.
The exceeding drowth still continues.
18. I received a warrant to send out a horse with 12 dayes pro
vision, &c.
28. We had now plentiful raine after 2 yeares excessive drowth and
severe winters.
Argyle taken in Scotland and executed, and his party dispers'd.
2 July. No considerable account of the troops sent against the
Duke, tho' greate forces sent. There was a smart skirmish, but he
would not be provok'd to come to an encounter, but still kept in the
fastnesses. Dangerfield whipp'd, like Oates, for perjurie.
8 July. Came news of Monmouth's utter defeate, and the next day
of his being taken by Sr Wm Portman and Lord Lumley with the
militia of their counties. It seemes the horse, commanded by Lord
Grey, being newly rais'd and undisciplin'd, were not to be brought in
so short a time to endure the fire, which expos'd the foote to the King's,
so as when Monmouth had led the foote in greate silence and order,
thinking to surprize Lieut* Gen1 Lord Feversham newly encamp'd, and
given him a smart charge, interchanging both greate and small shot,
the horse, breaking their owne ranks, Monmouth gave it over, and fled
with Grey, leaving their party to be cut in pieces to the number of
2000. The whole number reported to be above 8,000, the King's but
2,700. The slaine were most of them Mendip -miners, who did greate s
execution with their tooles, and sold their lives very dearely, whilst
their leaders flying were pursu'd and taken the next morning, not far
from one another. Monmouth had gone 16 miles on foote, changing;
his habite for a poore coate, and was found by Lord Lumley in a dry
ditch cover'd with fern-brakes, but without sword, pistol, or any wea
pon, and so might have pass'd for some countryman, his beard being
VOL. I. 4 H

602 [1685-
grown so long and so grey as hardly to be known, had not his George
discover'd him, which was found in his pocket. 'Tis said he trem-
bl'd exceedingly all over, not able to speake. Qrey was taken not far
from him. Most of his party were anabaptists and poore cloth workers
of yu country, no gentlemen of account being come in to him. The
arch-boutefeu Ferguson, Matthews, *&c. were not yet found. The
sg.5,000 to be given to whoever should bring Monmouth in, was to
be distributed among the militia by agreement between Sr Wm Port-
man and Lord Lumley. The battail ended, some words, first In jest,
then in passion, pass'd between Sherrington Talbot (a worthy gent",
son to Sr John Talbot, and who had behav'd himselfe very hand
somely) and one Capt. Love, both commanders of the militia, as to
whose souldiers fought best, both drawing their swords and passing at
one another. Sherrington was wounded to death on the spot, to the
greate regret of those who knew him. He was Sir John's only son.
9 July. Just as I was coming into the lodgings at White-hall, a
little before dinner, my Lord of Devonshire standing very neere his
Ma*'s bed-chamber doore in the lobby, came Col. Culpeper, and in a
rude manner looking my Lord in the face, asked whether this was a
time and place for excluders to appeare ; my Lord at first tooke little
notice of what he said, knowing him to be a hot-headed fellow, but he
reiterating it, my Lord ask'd Culpeper whether he meant him; he said,
yes, he meant his Lordship. My Lord told him he was no excluder (as
indeed he was not); the other affirming it againe, my Lord told him he
lied, on which Culpeper struck him a box on the eare, which my Lord
return'd and fell'd him. They were soone parted, Culpeper was seiz'd,
and his Ma*, who was all the while in his bed-chamber, order'd him to
be carried to the Green Cloth Officer, who sent him to the Marshalsea
as he deserv'd. My Lord Devon had nothing said to him.
I supp'd this night at Lambeth at my old friend's Mr. Elias Ash-
mole's, with my Lady Clarendon, ye Bishop of St. Asaph, and Dr.
Tenison, when we were treated at a greate feast.
10 July. The Count of Castel Mellor, that greate favourite and
prime minister of Alphonso, late King of Portugal, after several
yeares banishment, being now receiv'd to grace and call'd home by Don

1685.] 603
Pedro the present King, as having ben found a person of the greatest
integrity after all his sufferings, desir'd me to spend part of this day
with him, and assist him in a collection of books and other curiosities,
which he would carry with him into Portugal.
Mr. Hussey *, a young gentleman who made love to my late deare
child, but whom she could not bring herselfe to answer in affection, died
now of the same cruel disease, for wch I was extreamly sorry, because
he never enjoy'd himselfe after my daughter's decease, nor was I averse
to the match, could she have overcome her disinclination.
15. I went to see Dr. Tenison's Library [in St. Martin's.]
Monmouth was this day brought to London and examin'd before tbe
King, to whom he made greate submission, acknowledg'd his seduction
by Ferguson the Scot, whom he nam'd ye bloudy villain. He was
sent to ye Tower, had an interview with his late Dutchesse, whom he
receiv'd coldly, having liv'd dishonestly with ye Lady Henrietta Went
worth for two yeares. He obstinately asserted his conversation with that
debauch'd woman to be no sin, whereupon, seeing he could not be per
suaded to his last breath, the divines who were sent to assist him
thought not fit to administer the Holy Communion to him. For ye rest
of his faults he profess'd greate sorrow, and so died without any appa
rent feare ; he would not make use of a cap or other circumstance, but
lying downe, bid the fellow do his office better than to the late Lord
Russell, and gave him gold ; but the wretch made five chopps before he
had his head off; wch so incens'd the people, that had he not been
guarded and got away, they would have torn him to pieces.
The Duke made no speech on the scaffold (wch was on Tower Hill)
but gave a paper containing not above 5 or 6 lines, for the King, in
which he disclaims all title to ye Crown, acknowledges that the late
King, his father, had indeede told him he was but his base sonn, and
so desir'd his Ma* to be kind to his wife and children. This^ relation I
had from Dr. Tenison (Rector of St. Martin's), who, with the Bishops
of Ely and Bath and Wells, were sent to him by his Ma*, and were at
the execution. * Son of Peter Hussey, Esq. of Sutton, in Shere, Surrey. See pp. 431, 535.

604 [1685-
Thus ended this. quondam Duke, darling of his father and ye ladies,
being extreamly handsome and adroit; an excellent souldier and dancer,
a favourite of the people, of an easy nature, debauch'd by lust, seduc'd
by crafty knaves who would have set him up only to make a property,
and took the opportunity of the King being of another religion, to ga
ther a party of discontented men. He fail'd, and perish'd.
He was a lovely person, had a virtuous and excellent lady that
brought him greate riches, and a second dukedom in Scotland. He
was Master of the Horse, General of the King his father's Army,
Gentleman of the Bed-chambpr, Knight of the Garter, Chancellor of
Cambridge, in a word had accumulations without end. See what ambi
tion and want of principles brought him to ! He was beheaded on
Tuesday 14th July. His mother, whose name was Barlow, daughter of
some very meane creatures, was a beautiful strumpet, whom I had often
seene at Paris ; she died miserably without any thing to bury her ;
yet this Perkin had ben made to believe that the King had married her;
a monstrous and ridiculous forgerie ; and to satisfy the world of the ini
quity of the report, the King his father (If his father he really was,
for he most resembl'd one Sidney *, who was familiar with his mother)
publickly and most solemnly renounc'd it, to be so enter'd in the
Council Booke some yeares since, with all ye Privy Councellors at
testation -j\

* Mr. Robert Sidney, commonly called handsome Sidney, related to the Earl of Leicester of that

name.

t Ross, tutor to the Duke of Monmouth, proposed to Bishop Cozens to sign a certificate of the
King's marriage to Mrs. Barlow, though her own name was Walters : this the Bishop refused. She
was born of a gentleman's family in Wales, but having little means and less grace, came to London
to make her fortune. Algernon Sidney, then a Colonel in Cromwell's army, had agreed to give
her 50 broad pieces (as he told the Duke of York) j but being ordered hastily away with his regi
ment, he missed his bargain. She went into Holland, where she fell into the hands of his brother
Colonel Robert Sidney, who kept her for some time, till the King hearing of her, got her from
him. On which the Colonel was heard to say, Let who will have her she is already sped j and after
being with the King she was so soon with child that the world had no cause to doubt whose child
it was, and the rather that when he grew to be a man, he very much resembled the Colonel both in
stature and countenance, even to a wort on his face. However the King owned the child. In the
King's absence she behaved so loosely, that on his return from his escape at Worcester, he would
have no further commerce with her, and she became a common prostitute at Paris. Life of King
James II. vol. I. 491.

1685.] 605
Had it not pleas'd God to dissipate this attempt in ye beginning,
there would in all appearance have gather'd an irresistable force which
would have desperately proceeded to ye ruine of ye Church and Govern
ment, so general was the discontent and expectation of the opportunity.
For my owne part I look'd upon this deliverance as most signal. Such
an Inundation of phanatics and men of impious principles must needs
have caus'd universal disorder, cruelty, injustice, rapine, sacrilege, and
confusion, an unavoidable civil war and misery without end. Blessed
be God the knot was happily broken, and a faire prospect of tranquil
lity for the future if we reforme, be thankful!, and make a right use of
this mercy.
18 July. I went to see the muster of the 6 Scotch and English re
giments whom the Prince of Orange had lately sent to his Ma* out of
Holland upon this rebellion, but which were now returning, there
having ben no occasion for their use. They were all excellently clad
and well disciplin'd, and were incamped on Blackheath with their
tents: the King and Queene came to see them exercise, and the man
ner of their incampment, which was very neate and magnificent.
By a grosse mistake of the Secretary of his Ma*'s forces, it had ben
order'd that they should be quarter'd in private houses, contrary to an
Act of Parliament, but on my informing his Ma* timely of it, It was
prevented. The two horsemen wch my son and myselfe sent into the county troopes,
were now come home, after a moneth's being out to our greate charge.
20. The Trinity Company met this day, which should have ben on
ye Monday after Trinity, but was put off by reason of the Royal Charter
being so large that it could not be ready before. Some immunities were
super-added. Mr. Pepys, Secretary to ye Admiralty, was a second
time chosen Master. There were present the Duke of Grafton, Lord
Dartmouth, Master of ye Ordnance, the Commissioners of ye Navy,
and brethren of the Corporation. We went to Church according to
costome, and then took barge to the Trinity House, in London, where
we had a great dinner, above 80 at one table.
7 Aug. I went to see Mr. Wats, keeper of the Apothecaries Gar
den of Simples at Chelsea, where there is a collection of innumerable

606 [1685.
rarities of that sort particularly, besides many rare annuals, the tree
bearing Jesuits bark, wch had don such wonders in quartan agues.
What was very ingenious was the subterranean heate, conveyed by a
stove under the conservatory, all vaulted with brick, so as he has the
doores and windowes open in the hardest frosts, secluding only the
snow. 15. Came to visite us Mr. Boscawen with my Lord Godolphin's
little son, with whose education hither his father had intrusted me.
27- My daughter Elizabeth died of the small pox, soon after
having married a young man, nephew of Sir John Tippett, sur
veyor of the Navy, and one of the Commissioners. The 30th she was
buried in the Church at Deptford. Thus in lesse than six moneths
were we deprived of two children for our unworthinesse and causes best
knowne to God, whom I beseeche from the bottome of my heart that he
will give us grace to make that right use of all these chastisements,
that we may become better, and entirely submitt in all things to his
infinite wise disposal. Amen.
3 Sept. Lord Clarendon (Lord Privy Seale) wrote to let me know
that the King being pleas'd to send him Lord Lieutenant into Ireland,
was also pleas'd to nominate me one of the Commissrs to execute ye
office of Privy Seale during his Lieutenancy there, it behoving me to
wait upon his Ma* to give him thanks for this greate honour.
5. I accompanied his Lordship to Windsor (dining by the way at
Sir Henry Capel's at Kew), where his Ma* receiving me with extra
ordinary kindnesse, I kiss'd his hand. I told him how. sensible 1 was
of his Ma*s gracious favour to me, that I would endeavour to serve
him with all sincerity, diligence, and loyalty, not more out of my
duty than inclination. He said he doubted not of it, and was glad he
had the opportunity to shew me the kindnesse he had for me. After
this came aboundance of greate men to give me joy.
6. Sunday. I went to prayer in the Chapell, and heard Dr. Standish.
The second sermon was preach'd by Dr. Creighton, on 1 Thess. 4, 11,
persuading to unity and peace, and to be mindfull of our owne busi
nesse, according to the advise of the Apostle. Then I went to heare a
Frenchman who preached before the King and Queene in that splendid

1685.] 607
Chapell next St. George's Hall. Their Maties going to masse, I with
drew to consider the stupendous painting of ye Hall, which, both for
the art and invention, deserve the inscription in honour of the painter,
Signior Verrio. The history is Edward the 3d receiving the Black
Prince, coming towards him in a Roman triumph. The whole roofe is
the history of St. George. The throne, the carvings, &e. are incom
parable, and I think equal to any, and in many circumstances exceed
ing any, I have seene abroad.
I din'd at Lord Sunderland's, with (amongst others) Sr Wm Soames,
design'd Ambass1 to Constantinople.
About 6 o'clock came Sl Dudley and his brother Roger North, and
brought the greate seale from my Lord Keeper, who died ye day before
at his house in Oxfordshire. The King went immediately to Council ;
every body guessing who was most likely to succeed this greate officer ;
most believing it could be no other than my Lord Chief Justice Jef
feries, who had so vigorously prosecuted the late rebells, and was now
•gone the Western circuit, to punish the rest that were secur'd in the
several counties, and was now neere upon his returne. I tooke my
leave of his Ma*, who spake very graciously to me, and supping that
night at Sr Stephen Fox's, I promis'd to dine there the next day.
15 Sept. I accompanied Mr. Pepys to Portsmouth, whither his
Ma* was going the first time since his coming to the Crowne, to see in
what state the fortifications were. We tooke coach and six horses,
late after dinner, yet got to Bagshot* that night. Whilst supper was
making ready I went and made a visit to Mrs. Graham -j*, some time
maid of honour to ye Queene Dowager, now wife to James Graham,
Esq. of the privy purse to the King ; her house J being a walke in the
forest, within a little quarter of a mile from Bagshot towne. Very
importunate she was that I woukf sup, and abide there that night, but
being obliged by my companion, I return'd to our inn, after she had
shew'd me her house, wch was very commodious and well furnish'd, as
she was an excellent housewife, a prudent and virtuous lady. There is
a parke full of red deere about it. Her eldest son was now sick there
* 26 miles. + Miss Howard, see p. 479. X Bagshot Park.

608 1*6*5.
of the small-pox, but in a likely way of recovery, and other of her
children run about, and among the infected, wnh she said she let them
do on purpose that they might whilst young pass that fatal disease
she fancied they were to undergo one time or other, and that this
would be the best : the severity of this cruell disease so lately in my
poore family confirming much of what she affirmed.
16. The next morning setting out early, we ariv'd soon enough
at Winchester to waite on the King, who was lodg'd at the Dean's
(Dr. Meggot). I found very few with him besides my Lords Fever
sham, Arran, Newport, and the Bishop of Bath and Wells. His
Ma* was discoursing with the Bishops concerning miracles, and what
strange things the Saludadors* would do in Spaine, as by creeping
into heated ovens without hurt, and that they had a black crosse in the
roofe of their mouthes, but yet were commonly notorious and profane
wretches ; upon which his Majesty further said, that he was so
extreamly difficult of miracles, for feare of being impos'd upon, that if
he should chance to see one himselfe, without some other witness, he
should apprehend it a delusion of his senses. Then they spake of ye
boy who was pretended to have a wanting leg restor'd him, so confi
dently asserted by Fr. de Sta Clara and others. To all which the Bishop
added a greate miracle happening In Winchester to his certaine know
ledge, of a poor miserably sick and decrepit child (as I remember long
kept unbaptiz'd), who immediately on his baptism recover'd ; as also
of yc salutary effect of K. Charles his Ma*s father's blood, in healing
one that was blind.

* As to that of the Saludador (of which likewise I remember Sir Arthur Hopton, formerly Am
bassador at Madrid, had told me many like wonders) Mr. Pepys passing through Spaine, and
being extreamly inquisitive of the truth of these pretended miracles of the Saludadors, found a
very famous one at last, to whom he offered a considerable reward if he would make a trial of the
oven, or any other thing of that kind, before him; the fellow ingenuously told him that finding he
was a more than ordinary curious person, he would not deceive him, and so acknowledged that he
could do none of the feates really, but that what they pretended was all a cheate, w<=h he would
easily discover, though the poore superstitious people were easily imposed upon ; yet have these
imposters an allowance of the Bishops to practice their juglings. This Mr. Pepys affirmed to me,
but, said he, I did not conceive it fit to interrupt his Maty, who so solemnly told what they pre
tended to do. J. E.

1685.J 609
There was something said of the second sight happening to some
persons, especialy Scotch; upon which his Ma*, and I think Lord Arran,
told us that Mons  a French nobleman, lately here in England,
seeing the late Duke of Monmouth come into yc play-house at London,
suddenly cried out to somebody sitting in the same box, Voila Mon
sieur comme il entre sans tSte. Afterwards his Ma* spoke of some
reliques that had effected strange cures, particularly a piece of our Bl.
Saviour's Crosse, that heal'd a gentleman's rotten nose by onely touch
ing; and speaking of the golden crosse and chaine taken out of the
coffin of St. Edward the Confessor at Westmr*, by one of the singing
men, who, as the scaffolds were taking down after his Ma*s coronation,
espying a hole in the tomb, and something glisten, put his hand in,
and brought it to the Deane, and he to the King ; his Maty began to
put the Bishop in mind how earnestly the late King (his brother) call'd
upon him, during his agonie, to take out what he had in his pocket.
I had thought, said the King, it had ben for some keys, which might
lead to some cabinet that his Ma* would have me secure ; but, says
he, you well remember that I found nothing in any of his pockets but
a crosse of gold, and a few insignificant papers ; and thereupon he
shew'd us the crosse, and was pleas'd to put it into my hand. It was
of gold, about three inches long, having on one side a crucifix enamell'd
and emboss'd, the rest was grav'd and garnish'd with goldsmiths' work,
and two pretty broad table amethists (as I conceiv'd), and at the bottom
a pendant pearle; within was inchas'd a little fragment, as was thought,
of the true Crosse, and a Latine inscription in gold and Roman letters^.
More company coming in, this discourse ended. I may not forget a
resolution which his Ma* made, and had a little before enter'd upon it
at ye Council Board at Windsor or White-hall, that the Negroes in the
Plantations should all be baptiz'd, exceedingly declaiming against that
impiety of their masters prohibiting it, out of a mistaken opinion that
they would be ipso facto free ; but his Ma* persists in his resolution to
have them christen'd, wch piety ye Bishop blessed him for.

* See a " Narrative" on this subject among the Illustrations at the end of this Volume.
f There is a pamphlet giving an account of this finding, and presenting to the King, under the
name of George Taylour ; but his name was Henry Keepe. See Gough's Topography.
VOL. I. 4 i

s
610 [1685.
I went out to see the new Palace the late King had began, and
brought almost to the covering. It is plac'd on the side of the hill
where formerly stood the old Castle. It is a stately fabric, of three
sides and a corridor, all built of brick, and cornish'd, windows and
columns at the break and entrance of free-stone. It was intended for a
hunting-house when his Ma* should come to these parts, and has an
incomparable prospect. I believe there had already ben ^.20,000 and
more expended, but his now Majesty did not seeme to encourage the
finishing It, at least for a while.
Hence I went to see the Cathedral, a reverend pile, and in good
repaire. There are still the coffins of the six Saxon Kings, whose bones
had ben scatter'd by the sacrilegious Rebells of 1641, in expectation, I
suppose, of finding some valuable reliques, and afterwards gather'd up
againe and put into new chests, wch stand above the stalls of the Choir.
17 Sept. Early next morning we went to Portsmouth, something
before his Ma* ariv'd. We found all the way full of people, the
women in their best dress, in expectation of seeing the King pass by,
which he did riding on horseback a good part of the way. We found the
Maior and Aldermen with their mace, and in their formalities, standing
at the entrance of the fort, a mile on this side of the towne, where the
Maior made a speech to the King, and then the guns -of the fort were
fired, as were those of the garrison so soone as the King was come into
Portsmouth. All the souldiers (neere 3000) were drawn up, and lining
the streetes and platforme to God's-house (the name of the Governor's
house), where, after he had view'd the new fortifications and ship-yard,
his Ma* was entertain'd at a magnificent dinner by Sir
Slingsby yc Lieut. Governor, all the gentlemen in his traine setting
down at table with him, wch I also had don had I not ben before
engag'd to S1 Rob4 Holmes, Gov1 of ye Isle of Wight, to dine with
him at a private house, where likewise we had a very sumptuous and
plentiful repast of excellent venison, fowle, fish, and fruit.
After dinner I went to wait on his Ma* againe, who was pulling on
his bootes in ye Towne- hall, adjoyning the house where he din'd, and
then having saluted some ladys, who came to kiss his hand, he tooke
horse for Winchester, whither he returned that night. This hall is

1685.] 611
artificialy hung round with armes of all sorts, like the Hall and Keep
at Windsor.
I went hence to see the ship-yard and dock, the fortifications, and
other things.
Portsmouth when finish'd will be very strong, and a noble key.
There were now 32 men of war in ye harbour. I was invited by Sir
R. Beach ye Commissioner, where, after a greate supper, Mr. Secre
tary and myselfe lay that night, and the next morning set out for Guild
ford, where we ariv'd in good hour, and so the day after to London.
I had twice before ben at Portsmouth, ye Isle of Wight, &c. many
yeares since I found this part of Hampshire bravely wooded, espe
cialy about ye house and estate of Col. Norton, who, tho' now in being,
having formerly made his peace by means of Col. Legg, was formerly
a very fierce commander in the first Rebellion. His house is large,
and standing low, on the road from Winchester to Portsmouth.
By what I observ'd in this journey, is that infinite industry, sedulity,
gravity, and greate understanding and experience of affaires, in his
Ma*, that I cannot but predict much happiness to yc Nation, as to its
political government; and if he so persist, there could be nothing more
desir'd to accomplish our prosperity but that he was of the National
Religion. 30. Lord Clarendon's Commission for Lieutenant of Ireland was
seal'd this day.
2 Oct. Having a letter sent me by Mr. Pepys with this expression
at the foote of it, " I have something to shew you that I may not have
another time," and that I would not faile to dine with him, I accordingly
went. After dinner he had me and Mr. Houblon (a rich and consider
able merchant, whose father had fled out of Flanders on the persecution
of the Duke of Alva) into a private roome, and told us that being lately
alone with his Ma*, and upon some occasion of speaking concerning
my late Lord Arlington dying a Roman Catholic, who had all along
seem'd to profess himselfe a Protestant, taken all the tests, &c. till the
day (I think) of his death, his Ma* sayd that as to his inclinations he
had known him long wavering, but from feare of looseing his places he
did not think it convenient to declare himself. There are, says the

612 [1685.
King, those who believe the Church of Rome gives dispensations for
going to church, and many like things, but that is not so ; for if that
might have ben had, he himselfe had most reason to make use of it.
Indeede, he said, as to some matrimonial cases, there are now and
then dispensations, but hardly in any cases else. This familiar dis
course encourag'd Mr. Pepys to beg of his Ma*, if he might ask it
without offence, and for that his Ma* could not but observe how it was
whisper'd among many, whether his late Ma* bad ben reconcil'd to ye
Church of Rome ; he againe humbly besought his Ma* to pardon his
presumption if he had touch'd upon a thing which did not befit him to
looke into : the King ingenuously told him that he both was and died
a Roman Catholic, and that he had not long since declar'd it was upon
some politic and state reasons, best known to himselfe (meaning the
King his brother) but that he was of that persuasion : he bid him
follow him into his closet, where opening a cabinet, he shew'd him two
papers, containing about a quarter of a sheete, on both sides written, in
the late King's owne hand, severall arguments opposite to the doctrine
of the Church of England, charging her with heresy, novelty and ye
fanaticism of other Protestants, the cheif whereof was, as I remember,
our refusing to acknowledge the Primacy and Infallibility of the Church
of Rome ; how impossible it was that so many ages should never dis
pute it, till of late ; how unlikely our Saviour would leave his Church
without a visible head and guide to resort to, during his absence ;
with the like usual topics ; so well penn'd as to the discourse as did
by no means seeme to me to have ben put together by the late King,
yet written all with his owne hand, blotted and interlin'd, so as, if
indeede it was not given him by some priest, they might be such argu
ments and reasons as had ben inculcated from time to time, and here
recollected ; and in the conclusion shewing his looking on the Protes
tant Religion (and by name the Church of England) to be without
foundation, and consequently false and unsafe. When his Ma* had
shewn him these originals, he was pleas'd to lend him the copies of
those two papers, attested at the bottome in 4 or 5 lines, under his
owne hand.
These were the papers I saw and read. This nice and curious pas-

1685.] 613
sage I thought fit to set downe. Tho' all the arguments and objections
were altogether weake, and have a thousand times ben answer'd by our
Divines ; they are such as their Priests insinuate among their proselites,
as if nothing were Catholiq but the Church of Rome, no salvation out
of that, no reformation sufferable, bottoming all their errors on St.
Peter's successors unerrable dictatorship, but proving nothing with
any reason, or taking notice of any objection which could be made
against it. Here all was taken for granted, and upon it a resolution
and preference implied. I was heartily sorry to see all this, tho' it was
no other than was to be suspected, by his late Ma*s too greate indiffer
ence, neglect, and course of life, that he had ben perverted, and for
secular respects onely profess'd to be of another beliefe, and thereby
giving greate advantage to our adversaries, both the Court and gene
raly the youth and greate persons of the Nation becoming dissolute and
highly profane. God was incens'd to make his reign very troublesome
and unprosperous, by warrs, plagues, fires, losse of reputation by an
universal neglect of the publique for the love of a voluptuous and
sensual life, wcU a vlcions Court had brought into credit. I think of it
with sorrow and pity when I consider of how good and debonalre a
nature that unhappy Prince was, what opportunities he had to have
made himselfe the most renown'd King that ever sway'd the British
scepter, had he ben firm to that Church for wch his martyr'd and
blessed father suffer'd; and had he ben gratefull to Almighty God, who
so miraculously restor'd him, with so excellent a Religion; had he en
deavour'd to owne and propagate it as he should have don, not onely
for the good of his Kingdom, but of all the Reformed Churches in
Christendom, now weaken'd and neere ruin'd thro' our remissnesse and
suffering them to be suplanted, persecuted and destroy'd, as in France,
which we tooke no notice of. The consequence of this time will shew,
and I wish it may proceed no further. The emissaries and instruments
of the Church of Rome will never rest till they have crush'd the Church
of England, as knowing that alone to be able to cope with them, and
that they can never answer her fairly, but lie aboundantly open to the
irresistable force of her arguments, antiquity and purity of her doctrine,
so that albeit it may move God, for the punishment of a Nation so

614 [1685.
unworthy, to eclipse againe the profession of her here, and darknesse and
superstition prevaile, I am most confident the doctrine of the Church
of England will never be extinguish'd, but remaine visible, if not
eminent, to ye consummation of the world. I have innumerable reasons
that confirm me in this opinion, which I forbear to mention here.
In the mean time as to the discourse of his Ma* with Mr. Pepys,
and those papers, as I do exceedingly prefer his Majesty's free and in
genuous profession of what his own Religion is, beyond concealment
upon any politic accounts, so I thinke him of a most sincere and honest
nature, one on whose word one may relie, and that he makes a con
science of what he promises, to performe it. In this confidence I hope
that the Church of England may yet subsist, and when it shall please
God to open his eyes and turne his heart (for that is peculiarly in the
Lord's hands) to flourish also. In all events whatever do become of the
Church of England, it is certainely, of all the Christian professions on
the earth, the most primitive, apostolical and excellent.
8 Oct. I had my picture drawn this week by the famous Kneller *.
14. I went to London about finishing my lodgings at White-hall.
15. Being the King's birth day, there was a solemne ball at Court,
and before it musiq of instruments and voices. At the musiq I hap
pen'd by accident to stand the very next to the Queene and the King,
who talk'd with me about the musick.
18. The King was now building all that range from East to West
by ye Court and Garden to the streete, and making a new Chapel for ye
Queene, whose lodgings were to be in this new building, as also a new
Council chamber and offices next ye South end of yc Banquetting house.
I returned home next morning to London.
22. I accompanied my Lady Clarendon to her house at Swallow-
field in Berks, dining by the way at Mr. Graham's lodge at Bagshot f ;
the house, new repalr'd and capacious enough for a good family, stands
in a Park.
Hence we went to Swallowfield; this house is after the antient build
ing of honourable gentlemen's houses, when they kept up antient hos-

* An Engraving from this Portrait now at Wotton forms the Frontispiece to the First Volume
of these Memoirs. -j. See p. 607.

1685.] 615
pitality, but the gardens and waters as elegant as 'tis possible to make a
flat, by art and industrie, and no meane expence, my lady being so
extraordinarily skill'd in y<= flowery part, and my lord in diligence of
planting; so that I have hardly seene a seate whrch shews more
tokens of it than what is to be found here, not only in the delicious
and rarest fruits of a garden, but in those innumerable timber trees in
the ground about the seate, to the greatest ornament and benefit of
the place. There is one orchard of 1000 golden, and other cider
pippins; walks and groves of elms, limes, oaks, and other trees.
The garden is so beset with all manner of sweete shrubbs, that it per
fumes the aire. The distribution also of the quarters, walks, and
parterres, is excellent. The nurseries, kitchin garden full of ye most
desireable plants ; two very noble Orangeries well furnished ; but above
all, the canall and fishponds, the one fed with a white, the other with
a black running water, fed by a quick and swift river, so well and plen
tifully stor'd with fish, that for pike, carp, breame and tench, I never
saw any thing approching it. We had at every meale carp and pike
of size fit for the table of a Prince, and what added to ye delight
was to see the hundreds taken by the drag, out of which, the cooke
standing by, we pointed out what we had most mind to, and had carp
that would have ben worth at London twenty shillings a piece. The
waters are flagg'd about with Calamus aromaticus, with wch my lady
has hung a closet, that retains the smell very perfectly. There is also
a certaine sweete willow and other exotics : also a very fine bowllng-
greene, meadow, pasture, and wood ; in a word, all that can render
a country seate delightful. There is besides a well furnish'd library in
ye house.
26. We return'd to London, having ben treated with all sorts of
cheere and noble freedom by that most religious and vertuous lady.
She was now preparing to go for Ireland with her husband, made Lord
Deputy, and went to this country-house and antient seate of her father
and family *, to set things in order during her absence ; but never were

* She was daughter and heiress of Wm. Backhouse, Esq. ; and widow of Sir Wm. Backhouse,
.Bart. Collins's Peerage.

616 [168

good^people and neighbours more concern'd than all the country (the
poor especialy) for the departure of this charitable woman ; every one
was in teares, and she as unwilling to part from them. There was
amongst them a maiden of primitive life, the daughter of a poore labour
ing man, who had sustain'd her parents (sometime since dead) by
her labour, and has for many years refus'd marriage, or to receive any
assistance from the parish, besides yc little hermitage my lady gives
her rent-free; she lives on foure pence a day, which she gets by spin
ning; says she abounds and can give almes to others, Jiving in greate
humility and content, without any apparent affectation or singularity ;
she is continualy working, praying or reading, gives a good account of
her knowledge in religion, visites the sick ; is not in the least given to
talke ; very modest, of a simple not unseemly behaviour ; of a comely
countenance, clad very plaine, but cleane and tight. In sum, she
appeares a saint of an extraordinary sort, in so religious a life as is
seldom met with in villages now a-daies.
27- I was invited to dine at Sir Ste. Fox's with my Lord Lieute
nant, where was such a dinner for variety of all things as I had seldome
seene, and it was so for the trial of a master cooke whom Sir Stephen
had recommended to go with his Lordship Into Ireland ; there were all
ye dainties not onely of the season,, but of what art could add, venison,
plaine solid meate, fowle, bak'd and boil'd meates, banquet [desert],
&c. in exceeding plenty and exquisitely dress'd. There also din'd my
Lord Ossory and Lady (the Duke of Beaufort's daughter), my Lady
Treasurer, Lord Cornbery, &c.
28. At the Royal Society an urn full of bones was presented, dug
up In an highway, whilst repairing it, in a field in Camberwell in
Surrey; it was found intire with its. cover, amongst many others, be
liev'd to be truly Roman and antient. "
Sir Richd Bulkeley described to us a model of a charriot he had
invented, wch it was not possible to overthrow in whatever uneven way
it was drawn, giving us a wonderfull relation of what it had perform'd
in that kind, for ease, expedition, and safety; there were some incon
veniencies yet to be remedied — it would not contain more than one

1685.] 617
person ; was ready to take fire every 10 miles, and being plac'd, and
playing on no fewer than 10 rollers, it made a most prodigious
noise, almost intolerable. A remedy was to be sought for these
inconveniencies. 31. I din'd at our greate Lord Chancellor Jefferies, who us'd me
with much respect. This was the late Chief Justice who had newly
ben the Western Circuit to try the Monmouth conspirators, and had
formerly don such severe justice amongst the obnoxious in Westmr
Hall, for which his Ma* dignified him by creating him first a Baroii,
and now Lord Chancellor. He had some years past ben conversant at
Deptford ; is of an assur'd and undaunted spirit, and has serv'd the
Court interest on all the hardiest occasions ; is of nature cruel and a
slave of the Court.
3 Nov. The French persecution of ye Protestants raging with the
utmost barbarity, exceeded even what ye very heathens us'd : innu
merable persons of the greatest birth and riches leaving all their earthly
substance, and hardly escaping with their lives, dispers'd thro' all the
countries of Europe. The French tyrant abrogated the Edict of Nantes
which had ben made in favour of them, and without any cause ; on a
suddaine demolishing all their Churches, banishing, imprisoning, and
sending to ye gallies all ye ministers ; plundering the common people,
and exposing them to all sorts of barbarous usage by souldiers sent to
mine and prey on them ; taking away their children ; forcing people to
ye Masse, and then executing them as relapsers ; they burnt their
libraries, pillag'd their goods, eate up their fields and substance, banish' d
or sent the people to ye gallies, and seiz'd on their estates. There had
now ben number'd to passe thro' Geneva onely (and that by stealth,
for all the usual passages were strictly guarded by sea and land) 40,000
towards Swisserland. In Holland, Denmark, and all about Germany,
were dispers'd some hundred thousands ; besides those in England,
where though multitudes of all degrees sought for shelter and wellcome
as distressed Christians and Confessors, they found least encourage
ment, by a fatality of the times we were fallen into, and ye uncha
ritable indifference of such as should have embrac'd them ; and I pray it
vol. I. 4 K

618 [1685-
be not laid to our charge. The famous Claude fled to Holland, Allix *
and severall more came to London, and .persons of greate estates came
over, who had forsaken all. France was almost dispeopled, the bankers
so broaken that ye Tyrant's revenue was exceedingly diminish'd, manu
factures ceas'd, and every body there, save the Jesuites, abhorr'd what
was don, nor did the Papists themselves approve it. What the further
intention is time will shew, but doubtlesse portending some revo
lution. I was shew'd the harangue wch the Bishop of Valentla on
Rhone made in ye name of yc Cleargie, celebrating the French King,
as if he was a God, for persecuting the poore Protestants, with this ex
pression in it, " That as his victory over heresy was greater than all the
"conquests of, Alexander and Caesar, it was but what was wish'd in
" England ; and that God seem'd to^raise the French King to this power
" and magnanimous action, that he might be in capacity to assist in
" doing the same here." This paragraph is very bold and remarkable;
severall reflecting on Archbishop Usher's prophecy as now begun in
France, and approching the orthodox in all other reform'd churches.
One thing was much taken notice of, that the Gazettes which were
still constatl y printed twice a weeke, informing us what was don all
over Europe, never spake of this wonderfull proceeding in France, nor
was any relation of it publish'd by any, save what private letters and
the persecuted fugitives brought : whence this silence I list not to con
jecture, but it appear'd very extraordinary in a Protestant countrie that
we should know nothing of what Protestants suffer'd, whilst greate
collections were made for them in forreine places, more hospitable and
Christian to appearance.
5 Nov. It being an extraordinary wett morning, and myself indis
posed by a very greate rheume, I did not go to church, to my very
greate sorrow, it being the first Gunpowder Conspiracy anniversary
that had ben kept now these 80 yeares under a prince of the Roman
* Mr. Peter Allix, a minister of the Reform'd Church at Charenton, came over with his whole
family, and met with great encouragement here. He was the author of several learned discourses
in defence of the Christian Religion in general, and of Protestantism in particular. His eldest son
John Peter Allix became D. D. and after passing through different preferments, was in 1730 made
Dean of Ely, and died in 1758, and was buried in his church of Castle Camps in Cambridgeshire.

1685.] 619
religion. Bonfires were forbidden on this day ; what does this portend !
9. Began the Parliament ; the King in his speech required con
tinuance of a standing force instead of a militia, and indemnity and
dispensation to Popish officers from the Test ; demands very unexpected
and unpleasing to the Commons. He also requir'd a supply of revenue,
which they granted, but return'd no thanks to the King for his speech,
till farther consideration.
12. The Commons postponed finishing the bill for the supply, to
consider of the Test, and Popish officers ; this was carried but by one
voice. 14. I dined at Lambeth, my Lord Archbishop carrying me with
him in his barge : there were my Lord Deputy of Ireland, the Bp. of
Ely, and St. Asaph, Dr. Sherlock, and other divines ; Sir Wm Hay-
ward, Sir Paule Rycaut, &c.
20. The Parliament was adjourn'd to February, severall bothof
Lords and Commons excepting against some passage of his Majesty's
speech relating to the Test, and continuance of Popish officers in com
mand. This was a greate surprize in a Parliament which people be
liev'd would have complied in all things.
Popish pamphlets and pictures sold publickly ; no books nor answers
to them appearing till long after.
21. I resign'd my trust for composing a difference between Mr.
Thynn and his wife.
22. Hitherto was a very wett warme season.
' 4 Dec. Lord Sunderland was declar'd President of ye Counsel, and
yet to hold his Secretarie's place. The forces dispos'd into severall
quarters thro' ye kingdome are very insolent, on wch are greate com
plaints. Lord Brandon tried for the late conspiracy, was condemn'd and
pardon'd ; so was Lord Grey, his accuser and witnesse.
Persecution in France raging, the French Insolently visite our ves
sells and take away the fugitive Protestants ; some escape in barrells.
10. To Greenwich, being put into the new Commission of Sewers.
13. Dr Patrick, Dean of Peterborough, preach'd at White-hall
before ye Princesse of Denmark ; who since his Ma* came to the

620 [1685.
Crown, allways sate in the King's closet, and had the same bowings
and ceremonies applied to the place where she was, as his Ma* had
when there in person.
Dining at Mr. Pepys's, Dr. Slayer shewed us an experiment of a
wonderful nature, pouring first a very cold liquor into a glass, and
super-fusing on it another, to appearance cold and cleare liquor also ;
it first produced a white cloud, then boiling, divers cormscations and
actual flames of fire mingled with the liquor, which being a little
shaken together, fixed divers sunns and starrs of real fire, perfectly
globular, on the sides of the glasse, and which there stuck like so many
constellations, burning most vehemently, and resembling starrs and
heavenly bodies, and that for a long space. It seemed to exhiblte a
theorie of the eduction of light out of the chaos, and the fixing or ga
thering of the universal light into luminous bodys. This matter or
phosphorus was made out of human blood and urine, elucidating the
vital flame or heate in animal bodys. A very noble experiment.
16. I accompanied my Lord Lieutenant as far as St. Alban's, there
going out of towne with him neere 200 coaches of all the greate officers
and nobilitie. The next morning taking leave, I return'd to London.
18. I din'd at the greate entertainment his Ma* gave ye Venetian
Ambassadors, Sign" Zenno and Justiniani, accompanied with 10 more
noble Venetians of their most illustrious families, Cornaro, Maccenigo,
&c. who came to congratulate their Maties coming to ye Crowne. The
dinner was most magnificent and plentifull, at four tables, with music,
kettle drums, and trumpets, wcb sounded upon a whistle at every health.
The banquet [desert] was 12 vast chargers pil'd up so high that those
who sat one against another could hardly see each other. Of these
sweetemeates, weh doubtless were some days piling up in that exquisite
manner, the Ambassadors touch'd not, but leaving them to ye spec
tators who came out of curiosity to see the dinner, were exceedingly
pleas'd to see in what a moment of time all that curious work was de
molished, the comfitures voided, and the tables clear'd. Thus his Ma*
entertain'd them three days, which (for the table only) cost him
sS.600, as the Cleark of the Greene cloth (Sr Wm Bbreman) assur'd
me. Dinner ended, I saw their procession or cavalcade to White-hall,

16S5-] 621
innumerable coaches attending. The two Ambass" had 4 coaches of
their owne and 50 footemen (as I remember), besides other equipage
as splendid as ye occasion would permitt, the Court being still in mourn
ing. Thence I went to the audience wch they had in the Queene's
presence chamber, the Banquetting house being full of goods and fur
niture till the galleries on the garden side, Council chamber, and new
Chapell now in building, were finish'd. They went to their audience
in those plain black gownes and caps which they constantly weare in
the Citty of Venice. I was invited to have accompanied the 2 Am
bassadors in their coach to supper that night, returning now to their
own lodgings, as no longer at the King's expence ; but being weary I
excus'd myself.
19 Dec. My Lord Treasurer made me dine with him, where I
became acquainted with Monsr Barillon, the French Ambassador, a
learned and crafty advocate.
20. Dr Turner, brother to yc Bp. of Ely, and sometime Tutor to
my son, preach'd at White-hall on 8 Mark 38, concerning ye submis
sion of Christians to their persecutors, in weh were some passages
indiscreete enough, considering yc time, and the rage of the inhumane
French tyrant against the poore Protestants.
22. Our patent for executing the office of Privy Seal during the
absence of the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, being this day seal'd by
the Lord Chancellor, we went afterwards to Sc James's, where the
Court then was on occasion of building at White-hall ; his Ma* deli
ver'd the seale to my Lord Tivlot and myselfe, the other Commissioners
not being come, and then gave us his hand to kisse. There were the
two Venetian Ambassadors, and a world of company ; amongst the rest
the first Popish Nuncio * that had ben in England since the Reforma
tion, so wonderfully were things chang'd, to the universal jealousy.
24. We were all three Commissioners sworne on our knees by the
Cleark of the Crowne, before my Lord Chancellor, three severall oathes ;
allegiance, supremacy, and the oath belonging to ye Lord Privy Seal,
wch last we tooke standing. After this the Lord Chancellor invited us

* Ferdinand Count D'Ada, afterwards a Cardinal. There is a good mezzotinto print of him.

622 t*686.
all to dinner, but it being *Christmas-eve we desir'd to be excus'd, in
tending at three in ye afternoone to seale divers things which lay ready
at ye office ; so attended by three of the Clearks of ye Signet, we met
and seal'd. Amongst other things was a pardon to West, who being
privy to the late conspiracy, had reveal'd the accomplices to save his
owne neck. There were also another pardon and two indenizations ;
and so agreeing to a fortnight's vacation, I return'd home.
31. Recollecting the passages of the yeare past, and made up ac-
compts, humbly besought Almighty God to pardon those my sinus
which had provoked him to discompose my sorrowfull family ; that he
would accept of our humiliation, and in his good time restore comfort
to it. I also blest God for all his undeserved mercies and preservations,
begging the continuance of his grace and preservation. — The winter
had hitherto been extraordinary wett and mild.
1686. 1 Jan. Imploring yB continuance of God's providential care
for the yeare now entered, I went to the publiq- devotions. The Deane
of the Chapell and Cleark of the Closset put out, viz. Bp. of London
and . . . , and Rochester* and Durham f put in their places ; the
former had oppos'd the toleration intended, and shewn a worthy zeale
for the Reform'd Religion as establish'd.
6. I din'd with ye Abp. of York, where was Peter Walsh, that
Romish Priest so well known for his moderation, professing the Church
of England to be a true member of the Catholic Church ; he is us'd to
go to our publiq prayers without scruple, and did not acknowledge the
Pope's infallibility, onely primacy of order.
19. Passed the Privie Seale, amongst others, the creation of Mrs.
Sedley J (concubine to  ) Countesse of Dorchester, which the
Queene took very grievously, so as for two dinners, standing neere her
* Sprat. f Crewe.
+ Catharine, daughter of Sir Charles Sedley, Bart, one of the famous knot of wits and cour
tiers of King Charles's time — he was also a poet, and wrote some dramatic pieces. She had a
daughter by King James II. and was afterwards married to David Earl of Portmore, by whom she
had two sons, and died in 1717- Lord Dorset's well known verses, " Tell me, Dorinda, why so
gay,'' &c. are addressed to this lady. Her father's sarcasm when he voted for filling up the vacant
throne with the Prince and Princess of Orange is well known; " King James made my daughter
a Countess, and 1 have been helping to make his daughter a Queen .''

1686.] 623
I observed she hardly eate one morsel, nor spake one word to the King,
or to any about her, tho' at other times she us'd to be extreamly plea
sant, full of discourse and good humour. The Roman Catholics were
also very angry, because they had so long valu'd the sanctity of their
religion and proselytes.
Dryden the famous playwriter, and his two sonns, and Mrs. Nelly
(Misse to ye late  ) were said to go to masse ; such proselytes were
no greate losse to the church.
This night was burnt to the ground my Lord Mountague's palace in
Bloomsbury, than wch for painting and furniture there was nothing
more glorious in England. This happen'd by the negligence of a ser
vant, airing, as they call it, some of the goods by the fire in a moist
season ; indeede so wet and mild a winter had scarce ben seene in
man's memory.
At this Seale there also pass'd the creation of Sr H. Walgrave to be
a Peere. He had married one of the King's natural daughters by Mrs.
Churchill. These two Seales my brother Commissioners pass'd in the
morning before I came to towne, at. wch I was not displeas'd. We
likewise pass'd Privy Seales for 5^.2/6,000 upon severall accounts,
pensions, guards, wardrobes, pri vie purse, &c. besides divers pardons,
and one more wcb I must not forget (and wch by Providence I was not
present at) one Mr. Lytcott to be Secretary to the Ambassador to
Rome. We being three Commissioners, any two were a quorum.
21. I din'd at my Lady Arlington's, groome of the stole to the
Queene Dowager, at Somerset House, where din'd the Countesses of
Devonshire, Dover, &c. in all 11 ladys of quality, no man but myselfe
being there.
24. Unheard of cruelties to ye persecuted Protestants of France,
such as hardly any age has seene the like, even among the Pagans.
6 Feb. Being the day on wcb his Ma* began his reign, by order of
Council it was to be solemniz'd with a particular Office and Sermon,
which theBp. of Ely* preach'd at White-hall on 11 Numb. 12; a
Court oration upon the Regal office. It was much wonder'd at that

* Dr. Francis Turner.

624 [1686.
this day, weh was that of his late Ma*'s death, should be kept as a fes
tival, and not [instead of] the day of the present King's coronation.
It is said to have ben formerly ye costom, tho' not till now since ye
reigne of King James I.
The Dutchesse of Monmouth being in ye same seate with me at
church, appear'd with a very sad and afflicted countenance.
8. I tooke the Test in Westminster Hall, before the Lord Cheif
Justice. I now came to lodge at White-hall in the Lord Privy Seal's
lodgings. 12. My greate cause was heard by my Lord Chancellor, who
granted me a re-hearing. I had 6 eminent lawyers, my antagonists 3,
whereof one was the smooth-tong Solicitor*, whom my Lord Chan
cellor reprov'd in greate passion for a very small occasion. Blessed be
God for his greate goodnesse to me this day.
19. Many bloody and notorious duels were fought about this time.
The Duke of Grafton kill'd Mr. Stanley, brother to the Earle of
[Derby], indeede upon an almost insufferable provocation. It is to be
hop'd his Ma* will at last severely remedy this unchristian custome.
Lord Sunderland was now Secretary of State, President of the Count
ed, and Premier Minister. ,
1 March. Came Sir Gilbert Gerrard to treate with me about his
sonn's marrying my daughter Susanna. The father being obnoxious,
and in some suspicion and displeasure of the King, I would receive no
proposal till his Ma* had given me leave, wch he was pleas'd to do ;
but after severall meetings we brake off on his not being willing to
secure any thing competent for my daughter's children ; besides that I
found most of his estate was in ye coal pits as far off as Newcastle, and
on leases from the Bishop of Durham, who had power to make con
current leases, with other difficulties.
7- Dr Frampton, Bp. of Gloucester, preach'd on 44 Psalm, 17, 18,
19, shewing the severall afflictions of the Church of Christ from the
primitives to this day, applying exceedingly to the present conjuncture,
when many were wavering in their minds, and greate temptations
* Mr. Finch, called Silver-Tongue, from his manner of speaking.

1686.] 625
appearing thro' the favour now found by the Papists, so as the people
were full of jealousies and discouragement. The Bp. magnified the
Church of England, exhorting to constancy and perseverance.
10. A Council of the Royal Society about disposing of Dr Ray's
book of Fishes, which was printed at the expence of the Society.
12. A docquet was to be seal' d importing a lease of 21 yeares to
one Hall, who styl'd himselfe his Ma*'s printer (he lately turn'd
Papist) for the printing Missalls, Offices, Lives of Saints, Portals,
Primers, &c. books expressly forbidden to be printed or sold, by divers
Acts of Parliament ; I refus'd to put the seale to it, making my excep
tions, so it was laied by.
14. The Bp. of Bath and Wells * preach'd on 6 John 17, a most
excellent and pathetic discourse : after he had recommended the duty
of fasting and other penitential duties, he exhorted to constancy in the
Protestant religion, detestation of the unheard-of cruelties of the
French, and stirring up to a liberal contribution. This Sermon was
the more acceptable, as- it was unexpected from a Bishop who had
undergon the censure of being inclin'd to Popery, the contrary whereof
no man could shew more. This indeede did all our Bishops, to the
disabusing and reproch of all their delators ; for none were more zea
lous against Popery than they were.
16. I was at a review of the Army about London, in Hide Park,
about 6000 horse and foote, in excellent order ; his Ma* and infinity
of people being present.
17- I went to my house in the country, refusing to be present at
what was to passe at the Privy Seale the next day. In the morning
Dr. Tenison preached an incomparable discourse at White-hall, on
2 Timothy 3, 4.
24. Dr. Cradock (Provost of Eaton) preached at the same place on
49 Psalm 13. shewing the vanity of earthly enjoyments.
28. Dr White, Bp. of Peterboro', preach'd in a very eloquent style,
on 26 Matthew 29, submission to the will of God on all accidents and
at all times.

* Dr. Ken.
VOL. I. 4 L

626 [1686.
29. The Duke of Northumberland (a natural son of the late King
by the Dutchess of Cleaveland) marrying very meanly, with the helpe
of his brother Grafton, attempted to spirit away his wife.
A Briefe was read in all Churches for relieving the French Protes
tants who came here for protection from the unheard-of cruelties of
their King.
Aprill 2. Sir Edward Hales, a papist, made Governor of Dover
Castle *.
15. The Abp. of York f now died of ye small pox, aged 62, a cor
pulent man. He was my special loving friend, and whilst Bp. of
Rochester (from whence he was translated) my excellent neighbour.
He was an unexpressible losse to yc whole church, and that province
especialy, he being a learned, wise, stoute, and most worthy prelate ; I
looke on this as a greate stroke to ye poore Church of England, now in
this defecting period.
18. In the afternoone I went to Camberwell to visit Dr. Parr.
After sermon I accompanied him to his house, where he shew'd me the
Life and Letters of the late learned Primate of Armagh (Usher), and
among them that letter of Bp. Bramhal's to the Primate, giving notice
of the Popish practices to pervert this Nation, by sending an hundred
priests into England, who were to conforme themselves to all sectaries
and conditions for the more easily dispersing their doctrine amongst us.
This letter was the cause of yfc whole impression being seiz'd, upon
pretence that it was a political or historical account of things not re
lating to theology, tho' it had ben licens'd by y1' Bishop; which plainely
shew'd what an interest the Papists now had, that a Protestant booke,
containing the life and le'tters of so eminent a man, was not to be pub
lish'd. There were also many letters to and from most of ye learned
persons his correspondents in Europe. The book will, I doubt not,
struggle through this unjust impediment.

* Not taking the Test, his coachman was set up to inform against him, and claim the 500i.
penalty. When this was to be brought to trial, the Judges were secretly asked their opinions,
and such as were not clear with the Court, were turned out. Half of them were dismissed.
Burnet, ill. 1110,1111.
f Dr. John Dolben.

1686.] 627
Several Judges were put out, and new complying ones put in.
25. This day was read in our church the Briefe for a collection for
.reliefe of ye Protestant French, so cruely, barbarously and inhumanly
oppress'd without any thing laied to their charge. It had ben long
expected, and at last was with difficulty procur'd to be publish'd, the
interest of the French Ambassador obstructing it.
5 May. There being a Seale It was fear'd we should be requir'd to
passe a doquett dispensing with Dr Obadiah Walker and four more,
whereof one was an apostate curate of Putney *, ye others officers of
University College, Oxford, to hold their masterships, fellowships, and
cures, and keepe publiq schooles, and enjoy all former emoluments,
notwithstanding they no more frequented or us'd the public formes of
prayers or communion with ye Church of England, or took yc test and
oathes of allegiance and supremacy, contrary to 20 Acts of Parliament;
which dispensation being also contrary to his Ma*'s owne gracious
declaration at y* beginning of his reigne, gave umbrage (as well it
might) to every good Protestant, nor could we safely have pass'd it
under the Privy Seale, wherefore it was done by immediate warrant,
sign'd by Mr. Solicitor.
This Walker was a learned person, of a monkish life, to whose
tuition I had more than 30 yeares since recommended the sonns of my
worthy friend Mr. Hyldyard of Horsly in Surry -j-, believing him to
be far from what he prov'd, an hypocritical conceal'd Papist, by wch he
perverted the eldest sonn of Mr. Hyldyard, Sr Edwd Hale's eldest sonn,
and severall more, to the greate disturbance of the whole Nation, as
well as of the University, as by his now publiq defection appear'd. AU
engines being now at work to bring in Popery, wcb God in mercy
prevent !
This day was burnt in the old Exchange, by the common hangman,
a translation of a booke written by ye famous Monsr Claude, relating
onely matters of fact concerning the horrid massacres and barbarous

* Edw. Sclater. From a Protestant he became a Roman Catholic ; and in 1689 he read his re
cantation from that church, and again became a Protestant. Manning and Bray's Surrey, III. 300,
f See before, p. 259.

628 [1686.
proceedings of y* French King against his Protestant subjects, without
any refutation of any facts therein ; so mighty a power and ascendant
here had the French Ambass', who was doubtlesse in greate indigna
tion at the pious and truly generous charity of all the Nation, for ye
reliefe of those miserable sufferers who came over for shelter.
About this time also the Duke of Savoy, instigated by yK French
King to extirpate the Protestants of Piedmont, slew many thousands
of those innocent people, so that there seem'd to be an universal
designe to destroy all that would not go to masse, throughout Europe.
Quod avertat D. O. M ! No faith in Princes !
12. I refus'd to put the Privy Seale to Dr Walker's licence for
printing and publishing divers Popish books, of which I complain'd
both to my Lord of Canterbury (with whom I went to advise in the
Council Chamber), and to my Lord Treasurer that evening at his
lodgings. My Lord of Canterbury's advice was, that I should follow
my owne conscience therein * ; Mr. Treasurer's, that if in conscience I
could dispense with it, for any other hazard he believ'd there was none.
Notwithstanding this 1 persisted in my refusal.
29. There was no sermon on this anniversary, as there usually had
ben ever since ye reigne of the present King.
2 June. Such storms, raine and foul weather, seldom known at
this time of the yeare. The camp at Hounslow Heath, from sicknesse
and other inconveniences of weather, forc'd to retire to quarters ; ye
storms being succeeded by excessive hot weather, many grew sick.
Greate feasting there, especialy in Lord Dunbarton's quarters. There
were many jealousies and discourses of what was the meaning of this
incampment. A Seale this day, mostly pardons and discharges of Kn* Baronets
fees, wch having ben pass'd over for so many yeares, did greatly dis
oblige several families who had serv'd his Ma*. Lord Tirconnell gon
to Ireland, with greate powers and commissions, giving as much cause
of talke as the camp, especialy 19 new privy councillors and judges
being now made, amongst wch but three Protestants, and Tirconnell
made Generall.

* Sancroft. Burnet describes him as a timid man.

1686.] 629
New Judges also here, amongst wch was Milton, a Papist (brother
to that Milton who wrote for y* Regicides), who presum'd to take his
place without passing ye Test*. Scotland refuses to grant liberty of
masse to the Papists there.
The French persecution more inhuman than ever. The Protestants
in Savoy successfully resist the French dragoons sent to murder them.
The King's chiefe physician in Scotland apostatizing from the
Protestant religion, does of his own accord publish his recantation
at Edinburgh -E
11. I went to see Middleton's receptacle of water at the New
River, and the new Spa Wells neere.
20. An extraordinary season of violent and sudden raine. The
camp still in tents.
24. My Lord Treasurer settled my greate buisinesse with Mr.
Pretyman, to which I hope God will at last give a prosperous issue.
25. Now his Ma*, beginning with Dr Sharp and Tully, proceeded
to silence and suspend divers excellent divines for preaching against
Popery. 27- I had this day ben married 39 yeares — blessed be God for all
his mercies.
The new very young Lord Cheif Justice Herbert declar'd on ye
bench that the government of England was entirely in the King ; that
the Crown was absolute ; that penal laws were powers lodged in the
Crown to enable the King to force the execution of the law, but were
not bars to bind the King's power ; that he could pardon all offences
against the law, and forgive the penalties, and why could he not dis
pense with them ? by which the Test was abolish'd. Every one was
* Christopher Milton, made a Baron of the Exchequer. He did not hold his situation long,
and Dr. Johnson admits that from weakness of constitution he retired before he had done any
disreputable act.
f Sir Robert Sibbald, who was the most learned antiquary in Scotland, had lived in a course of
philosophical virtue, but in great doubt as to revealed religion, was prevailed on by the Earl of
Perth to turn Papist 5 but he soon became ashamed of having done so on so little enquiry. He
went to London for some months, retiring from all company, and went into a deep course of
study, by which he came to see into the errors of Popery. He then returned to Scotland, and
published his recantation openly in a church. Burnet's Own Times, III. 1128,

630 [*6*6.
astonish'd. Greate jealousies as to what would be the end of these
proceedings. 6 July. I supp'd with the Countesse of Rochester, where was also
the Dutchesse of Buckingham and Madame de Governe, whose daugh
ter was married to ye Marquess of Halifax's sonn. She made me a
character of ye French King and Dauphin, and of ye persecution. That
they kept much of the cruelties from the King's knowledge ; that the
Dauphin was so afraid of his father, that he durst not let any thing
appeare of his sentiments ; that he hated letters and priests, spent all
his time in hunting, and seem'd to take no notice of what was passing.
This lady was of a greate family and fortune, and had fled hither
for refuge.
8. I waited on ye Abp. at Lambeth, where I din'd and met the
famous preacher and writer, Dr Allix *, doubtlesse a most excellent
and learned person. The Abp. and he spoke Latin together, and that
very readily.
11. Dr. Meggot, Deane of Winchester, preach'd before the House
hold in S* George's chapell at Windsor, ye late King's glorious chapell
now seiz'd on by the masse priests. Dr Cartwright, Deane of Ripon,
preach'd before the greate men of the Court in the same place.
We had now the sad news of the Bp. of Oxford's f death, an extra
ordinary losse to the poore Church at this time. Many candidates
for his Bishoprick and Deanry, Dr. Parker, South, Aldrich, &c.
Dr. Walker (now apostatizing) came to Court, and was doubtlesse
very buisy.
13. Note, that standing by ye Queene at Bassett (Cards) 1 ob
serv'd that she was exceedingly concern'd for ye losse of SOI. ; her
outward affability much chang'd to statelinesse, since she has ben
exalted. The season very rainy and inconvenient for the Camps. His Ma*
very cherefull.
14. Was seal'd at our office the Constitution of certaine Commis-

* Allix, of whom before under 1685.
t Dr. John Fell, also Deane of Christ Church.

1686.] 631
sioners to take upon them the full power of all Ecclesiastical affairs, in
as unlimited a manner, or rather greater, than ye late High Commis
sion Court, abrogated by Parliament ; for it had not onely faculty to
inspect and visite all Bishops dioceses, but to change what laws and
statutes they should think fit to alter among the Colledges, tho'
founded by private men ; to punish, suspend, fine, &c. give oathes
and call witnesses. The maine drift was to suppresse zealous preachers.
In sum, it was y" whole power of a Vicar General — note ye conse
quence ! Of the Cleargy the Commissioners were the Abp. of Canter
bury [Sancroft], Bishops of Durham [Crew] and Rochester [Sprat] ;
of ye Temporals, the Lord Treasurer, the Lord Chancellor [Jefferies]
(who alone was ever to be of the quorum), the Cheife Justice [Herbert],
and Lord President [Earl of SunderlandJ.
18. I went to see Sir John Chardin at Greenewich.
4 Aug'. I din'd at Sign1" Verrio's, ye famous Italian Painter, now
settled in his Ma*'3 garden at St. James's, which he had made a very
delicious Paradise.
8. Our Vicar gone to dispose of his country living in Rutlandshire,
having St. Dunstan in ye East given him by the Abp. of Canterbury.
I went to visite ye Marquess Ravigne', now my neighbour at Greene
wich, retir'd from the persecution in France. He was the Deputy of
all ye Protestants of that kingdom in the Parliament of Paris, and
severall times Ambassador in this and other Courts ; a person of greate
learning and experience *.
8 Sept. Dr. Compton Bp. of London was on Monday suspended,
on pretence of not silencing Dr. Sharp of St. Giles's for something of a
sermon in which he zealously reprov'd the doctrine of the Roman Ca
tholics. The Bishop having consulted the Civilians, they told him he
could not by any Law proceed against Dr. Sharp without producing
witnesses, and impleading according to forme ; but it was over-rul'd by
mv Lord Chancellor, and the Bishop sentenc'd without so much as
being heard to any purpose. This was thought a very extraordinary

* His son was with King William in Ireland, and was made Earl of Galway, but was dismissed
by violence of party, as being a Frenchman, though his conduct had been in every respect most
excellent, as will be mentioned hereafter.

632 [1686.
way of proceeding, and was universaly resented, and so much the
rather for that 2 Bishops, Durham * and Rochester f, sitting in the
Commission and giving their suffrages, the Abp. of Canterbury refus'd
to sit amongst them. He was only suspended ab officio, and that was
soone after taken off. He was brother to the Earl of Northampton,
had once ben a Souldier, had travelled in Italy, but became a sober,
grave, and excellent Prelate.
12. Buda now taken from ye Turks, a Form of Thanksgiving was
order'd to be us'd in the (as yet remaining) Protestant Chapells and
Church of White-hall and Windsor.
The King of Denmark was besieging Hambrow, no doubt by the
French contrivance, to embroile the Protestant Princes in a new warr,
that Holland, &c. being ingag'd, matter for new quarrell might arise :
the unheard-of persecution of the poore Protestants still raging more
than ever.
22. The Danes retire from Hambrow, the Protestant Princes ap
pearing for their succour, and the Emperor sending his Minatories to
the King of Denmark, and also requiring the restoration of the D. of
Saxe Gothorp. Thus it pleas'd God to defeate the French designes,
wch were evidently to kindle a new warr.
14 Oct. His Ma*s birth-day ; I was at his rising in his bed-cham
ber, afterwards in the Parke, where 4 companies of Guards were drawn
up. The officers, &c. wonderful rich and gallant; they did not head
their troops, but their next officers, ye Colonels being on horseback by
the King whilst they march'd. The Ladys not lesse splendid at Court,
where there was a Ball at night, but small appearance of qualitie. All
the shops both in the Citty and Suburbs were shut up, and kept as so
lemnly as any holyday. Bonefires at night in Westminster, but forbidden
in ye Citty.
17- Dr. Patric, Deane of Peterborow, preached at Covent Garden
Church on 5 Ephes. 18. 19. shewing the costome of the primitive
Saints in serving God with Hymns, and their frequent use of them
upon all occasions : perstringing the profane way of mirth and intem-
* Crewe. f Sprat : he afterwards would not sit.

1686.] 633
perance of this ungodly age. Afterwards I visited my Lord Cheife
Justice of Ireland, with whom I had long and private discourse con
cerning the miserable condition that kingdom was like to be in if
Tyrconnell's Councils should prevaile at Court.
23. Went with the Countesse of Sunderland to Cranboum, a lodge
and walke of my Lord Godolphin's in Windsor Parke. There was
one room in the house spared in the pulling downe the old one, because
the late Dutchesse of York was borne in it ; the rest was built and
added to it by Sir Geo. Carteret, Treasurer of the Navy; and since the
whole was purchas'd by my Lord Godolphin, who spake to me to go
see it, and advise what trees were fit to be cut downe to improve the
dwelling, it being inviron'd with old rotten pollards, which corrupt the
aire. It stands on a knowle, which tho' insensibly rising, <rives it a
prospect over the Keepe of Windsor, about three miles N. E. of it.
The ground is clayey and moist ; the water stark naught ; the park is
pretty ; the house tolerable, and gardens convenient. After dinner we
came back to London, having 2 coaches both going and coming, of 6
horses apiece, wch we chang'd at Hounslow.
24 Oct. Dr. Warren preached before the Princesse at White-hall on
5 Matthew, of the blessedness of the pure in heart, most elegantly de
scribing the blisse of the beatifical vision. In the afternoone Sr Geo.
Wheeler kn' and bart. preach'd on the 4th Matt, upon the necessity of
repentance, at St. Margaret's, an honest and devout discourse, and
pretty tolerably perform'd. This gentleman coming from his travels
out of Greece fell in love with the daughter of Sr Thos Higgins, his
Ma*s Resident at Venice, niece to the Earle of Bath, and married her.
When they return'd into England, being honour'd with knighthood,
he would needes turne Preacher, and tooke orders. He publish'd a
learned and ingenious book of his travels, and is a very worthy person,
a little formal and particular, but exceedingly devoute *.

* Sir George Wheeler was born whilst his parents were in exile at Breda for their attachment to
King Charles I. He was of Lincoln College, Oxford. On his return from his travels in Asia and •
Greece he was knighted. Having presented several antiquities which he had collected to the Uni
versity of Oxford in 1683, they gave him his degree of A. M. He took orders against the advice of
powerful friends, but from an earnest desire to be useful as a Parish Priest ; and he well fulfilled
VOL. I. 4 M

634 1*6*6.
27. There was a triumphant shew of the Lord Maior both by land
and water, with much solemnity, when yet his power has ben so much
diminish'd, by the losse of the Citty's former charter.
5 Nov. I went to St. Martin's in the morning, where Dr. Birch
preach'd very boldly against the Papists, from 16 John 2. In the after
noone I heard Dr. Tillotson in Lincoln's Inn Chapell, on the same
text, but more cautiously.
16. I went with part of my family to passe the melancholy winter
in London at my sonn's house in Arundel Buildings.
5 Dec. I dined at my Lady Arlington's, Groome of the Stole to
the Queene Dowager at Somerset House, where dined divers French
Noblemen, driven out of their Country by the persecution.
16. I carried the Countesse of Sunderland to see the rarities of one
Mr. Charleton in the Middle Temple, who shew'd us such a collection
as I had never seene in all my travels abroad, either of private gentle
men or princes. It consisted of miniatures, drawings, shells, insects,
medailes, natural things, animals (of wch divers, I think 100, were
kept in glasses of spirits of wine), minerals, precious stones, vessells,
curiosities in amber, christal, achat, &c. ; all being very perfect and
rare in their kind, especialy his bookes of birds, fish, flowers, and shells,
drawn and minlatur'd to the life. He told us that one book stood him
in ^.300 ; it was painted by that excellent workman whom the late
Gaston Duke of Orleans emploied. This gentleman's whole collection,
gather'd by himselfe travelling over most parts of Europe, is estimated
at s£.8000. He appear'd to be a modest and obliging person *.
29. I went to heare the musiq of the Italians in the New Chapel,
now first open'd publickly at White- hall for the Popish service. No
thing can be finer than the magnificent marble work and architecture

his intentions. He became Rector of Houghton-le-Spring in Durham, the living which had been
so exemplarily filled by the " Northern Apostle" Bernard Gilpin, and whose example he worthily
followed. Bishop Crew also gave him a stall in Durham Cathedral. He died 18 January 1723.
His descendants are seated at Otterden in Kent. Mr. Surtees, " History of Durham" (1816), where
a large account is given of him.
* This collection was afterwards purchased by Sir Hans Sloane, and now forms part of the
British Museum. Gent. Mag. Nov. 1816, p. 395, from Mr. Bagford's papers in the Brit. Mus.

1686.] 635
at the end, where are four statues, representing St. John, St. Peter, St.
Paul, and the Church, in white marble, the work of Mr. Gibbons,
with all the carving and pillars of exquisite art and greate cost. The
altar-piece is tbe Salutation ; the volto in fresca, the Assumption of the
Blessed Virgin according to their tradition, with our Bl. Saviour, and
a world of figures, painted by Verrio. The throne where the King
and Queene sit is very glorious, in a closet above, just opposite to the
altar. Here we saw the Bishop in his mitre and rich copes, with 6 or
7 Jesuits and others in rich copes, sumptuously habited, often taking
off and putting on the Bishop's mitre, who sate in a chaire with armes
pontificaly, was ador'd and cens'd by 3 Jesuits in their copes ; then
he went to the altar and made divers cringes, then censing the images
and glorious tabernacle plac'd on the altar, and now and then changing
place : the crosier, wch was of silver, was put into his hand with a world
of mysterious ceremony, the musiq playing, with singing. I could not
have believ'd I should ever have seene such things in the King of Eng
land's Palace, after it had pleas'd God to enlighten this Nation ; but
our greate sin has, for the present, eclips'd the blessing, wch I hope He
will in mercy and his good time restore to its purity.
Little appearance of any Winter as yet.
1687. 1 Jan. Mr. Wake preach'd at St. Martin's on 1 Tim. 3. 16.
concerning the mysterie of Godlinesse. He wrote excellently in answer
to the Bishop of Meaux.
3. A seal to confirm a gift of .^4000 per annum for 99 yeares to the
Lord Treasurer out of the Post Office, and £.YJ00 per annum for ever
out of Lord Gray's estate.
There was now another change of the greate Officers. The Treasury
was put into Commission, two profess'd Papists amongst them, viz.
Lords Bellasis and Dover, joyn'd with the old ones, Lord Godolphin,
Sir Stephen Fox, and Sir J. Earnley.
17- Much expectation of severall greate men declaring themselves
Papists. Lord Tyrconnell gone to succeed the Lord Lieutenant [Cla
rendon] in Ireland, to the astonishment of all sober men, and to the
evident ruine of the Protestants in that Kingdom, as well as of its
greate improvement going on. Much discourse that all the White Staff

636 [1687.
Officers and others should be dismiss'd for adhering to their Religion-
Popish Justices of the Peace establish'd in all Counties, of the meanest
of the people ; Judges ignorant of the Law, and perverting it — so
furiouslv do the Jesuits drive, and even compel Princes to violent
courses, and destruction of an excellent Government both in Church
and State. God of his infinite mercy open our eyes and turn our
hearts, and establish his truth with peace ! The Lord Jesus defend
his little Flock, and preserve this threaten'd Church and Nation.
24. I saw the Queenes new apartment at White-hall, with her new
bed, the embrodery of wcb cost ,^.3000. The carving about the chim
ney-piece, by Gibbons, is incomparable.
30. I heard the famous eunuch Cifaccio sing in the new Popish
Chapell this afternoone ; it was indeede very rare, and with greate
skill. He came over from Rome, esteemed one of the best voices in
Italy. Much crowding — little devotion.
27 Feb. Mr. Chetwin preached at White-hall on 1 Rom. 18, a very
quaint neate discourse of moral righteousnesse.
2 March. Came out a Proclamation for universal liberty of con
science in Scotland, and dispensation from all tests and lawes to the
contrary, as also capacitating Papists to be chosen into all offices of
trust. The mysterie operates.
3. Dr. Megot Deane of Winchester preached before the Princesse
of Denmark on 14 Matt. 23. In the afternoone I went out of towne to
meete my Lord Clarendon, returning from Ireland.
10. His Ma* sent for the Commissioners of the Privy Seale this
morning into his bed-chamber, and told us that tho' he had thought fit
to dispose of the seale into a single hand, yet he would so provide for
us as it should appeare how well he accepted our faith full and loyal
service, with many gracioUs expressions to this effect ; upon wch we
deliver'd the seale into his hands. It was by all the world both hoped
and expected that he would have restor'd it to my Lord Clarendon ;
but they were astonish'd to see it given to Lord Arundel of Wardour,
a zealous Roman Catholic. Indeede it was very hard, and look'd very
unkindly, his Ma* (as my Lord Clarendon protested to me, on my
going to visite him and long discoursing with him about the affaires of

1687.] 637
Ireland) finding not the least failure of duty in him during his govern
ment of that kingdom, so that his recall plainely appeared to be
from the stronger influence of the Papists, who now got all the pre
ferments. Most of the greate Officers, both in the Court and Country, Lords
and others, were dismiss'd, as they would not promise his Majesty their
consent to the repeal of the Test and penal Statutes against Popish Re
cusants. To this end most of the Parliament men were spoken to in
his Ma*s closset, and such as refus'd, if in any place or office of trust,
civil or military, were put out of their employments. This was a time
of greate trial, but hardly one of them assented, which put the Popish
interest much backward. The English Cleargy every where preach'd
boldly against their superstition and errors, and were wonderfully fol
low'd by the People. Not one considerable proselyte was made in all
this time. The party were exceedingly put to the worst by the preach
ing and writing of the Protestants in many excellent treatises, evincing
the doctrine and discipline of the Reform'd Religion, to the manifest
disadvantage of their adversaries. To this did not a little contribute the
sermon preach'd at White-hall before the Princesse of Denmark and a
great croud of People, and at least 30 of the greatest Nobility, by Dr.
Ken, Bishop of Bath and Wells, on 8 John 46 (the Gospel of the day)
describing thro' his whole discourse the blasphemies, perfidy, wresting
of Scripture, preference of tradition before it, spirit of persecution, su
perstition, legends and fables of the Scribes and Pharisees, so that all
the auditory understood his meaning of a parallel between them and the
Romish Priests, and their new Trent Religion. He exhorted his au
dience to adhere to the written Word, and to persevere in the Eaith
taught in the Church of England, whose doctrine for Catholic and
soundness he preferr'd to all the Communities and Churches of
Christians in the world; concluding with a kind of prophesy, that
whatever it suffer'd, it should after a short trial emerge to the confusion
of her adversaries, and the glory of God.
I went this evening to see the order of the boys and children at
Christ's Hospital. There were neere 800 boys and girls so decently
clad, cleanly lodg'd, so wholesomly fed, so admirably taught, some the

638 [1687-
Mathematics, especialy the 40 of the late King's foundation, that I
was delighted to see the progresse some little youths of 13 and 14
yeares of age had made. 1 saw them at supper, visited their dormito
ries, and much admir'd the order, ceconomy, and excellent government
of this most charitable seminary. Some are taught for the Universities,
others design'd for Seamen, all for Trades and Callings. The girles are
instructed in all such worke as becomes their sex and may fit them for
good wives, mistresses, and to be a blessing to their generation. They
sung a psalme before they sat downe to supper in the greate hall, to an
organ, which play'd all the time, with such cheerfull harmony that it
seem'd to me a vision of angels. I came from the place with infinite
satisfaction, having never seene a more noble, pious and admirable
Charity. All these consisted of orphans onely *. The Foundation was
of that pious Prince K. Edw. 6, whose picture (held to be an original
of Holbein) is in the Court where the Governors meete to consult on
the affaires of the Hospital, and his statue In white marble stands in a
nich of the wall below, as you go to the Church, which is a modern,
noble and ample fabric. This Foundation has had, and still has, many
Benefactors. 16 March. I saw a trial of those devilish murdering mischief-doing
engines called Bombs, shot out of the morter-piece on Black-heath.
The distance that they are cast, the destruction they make where they
fall, is prodigious.
20. The Bishop of Bath and Wells (Dr. Ken) preach'd at St. Mar-
tines to a crowd of people not to be express'd, nor the wonderful elo
quence of this admirable preacher; the text was 26 Matt. 36 to verse
40. describing the bitterness of our Bl. Saviour's agony, the ardour of
his love, the infinite obligations we have to imitate his patience and
resignation : the means by watching against temptations, and over our
selves, with fervent prayer to attaine it, and the exceeding reward in the
end. Upon all which he made most patheticall discourses. The Com
munion followed, at which I was participant. I afterwards din'd at
Dr. Tenison's with the Bishop and that young, most learned, pious and
* This is by no means the case now (1816).

1687-] 639
excellent preacher, Mr. Wake *. In the afternoone I went to heare
Mr. Wake at the new-built church of St. Anne, on 8 Mark 34. upon
the subject of taking-up the Crosse, and strenuously behaving ourselves
in time of persecution, as this now threaten'd to be.
His Ma* againe prorogu'd the Parliament, foreseeing it would not
remitt the Laws against Papists, by the extraordinary zeale and bravery
of Its Members, and the free renunciation of the greate Officers both in
Court and State, who would not be prevail'd with for any temporal
concerne. 25. Good Friday. Dr. Tenison preached at St. Martines, on 1
Peter 2. 24. During the service a man came into neere the middle of
the church, with his sword drawne, with severall others In that posture ;
in this jealous time it put the congregation into greate confusion ; but
it appear'd to be one who fled for sanctuary, being pursued by Bayliffs.
8 April. I had a re-hearing of my great Cause at the Chancery in
Westmr Hall, having 7 of the most learned Council, my adversary 5,
among wcb were the Attorney General and late Solicitor Finch, son
to the Lord Chancellor Nottingham. The accompt was at last brought
to one article of the surcharge, and referr'd to a Master. The Cause
lasted two hours and more.
10. In the last weeke there was issu'd a Dispensation from all obli
gations and tests, by which Dissenters and Papists especialy had publiq
liberty of exercising their severall ways of worship without incurring
the penalty of the many Laws and Acts of Parliament to the contrary.
This was purely obtain'd by the Papists, thinking thereby to mine the
Church of England, being now the onely Church which so admirably
and strenuously oppos'd their superstition. There was a wonderful
concourse of people at the Dissenters' Meeting-house in this parish,
and the Parish Church [Deptford] left exceeding thin. What this will
end In, God Almighty onely knows, but it looks like confusion, which I
pray God avert.
11. To London about my suit, some terms of accommodation being
propos'd.

* Afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury.

640 [1687.
19. I heard the famous singer Cifaccio, esteem'd the best in
Europe. Indeed his holding out and delicateness in extending and
looseing a note with incomparable softnesse and sweetnesse was ad
mirable ; for the rest I found him a mere wanton, effeminate child,
very coy, and proudly conceited to my apprehension. He touch'd the
harpsichord to his voice rarely well. This was before a select number
of particular persons whom Mr. Pepys invited to his house ; and this
was obtain'd by particular favour and much difficulty, the Signor much
disdaining to shew his talent to any but princes.
24. At Greenewich, at the conclusion of the Church service, there
was a French sermon preach'd after the use of the English Liturgy
translated into French, to a congregation of about 100 French Refu
gees, of whom Monsr Ruvigny was the cheife, and had obtain'd the
use of the Church after the Parish service was ended. The Preacher
patheticaly exhorted to patience, constancy, and reliance on God amidst
all their sufferings, and the infinite rewards to come.
2 May. I din'd with Mynheer Diskvelts, the Holland Ambassr, a
prudent and worthy person. There din'd Lord Middleton principal
Secretary of State, Lord Pembroke, Lord Lumley, Lord Preston, Col.
Fitz Patrick, and Sir John Chardin. After dinner the Ambass1 dis
cours'd of and deplor'd the stupid folly of our politics, in suffering the
French to take Luxemburg, it being a place of the most concern to
have ben defended, for the interest not onely of the Netherlands, but of
England. 12. To London. Lord Sunderland being Lord President and
Secretary of State, was made Kn1 of the Garter and prime favorite. —
This day there was such* a storme of wind as had seldome happen'd,
being a sort of hurricane. It kept the flood out of the Thames, so that
people went on foote over several places above bridge. Also an earth
quake in severall places in England about the time of the storme.
26. To London about my agreement with Mr. Pretyman after my
tedious suit.
2 June. I went to London, it having pleas'd his Ma* to grant me
a Privy Seal for ^6.6000, for discharge of the debt I had ben so many
yeares persecuted for, it being indeede for mony drawne over by my

*6*7.] 641
father in law Sr R. Browne, during his residence in the Court of France,
and so with a much greater sum due to Sir Richd from his Ma*; and
now this part of the arreare being paid, there remains yet due to me, as
executor of Sr Richd, above ^.6500 more; but this determining an
expensive chancery suit has ben so greate a mercy and providence to me
(thro' the kindness and friendship to me of Lord Godolphin, one of
the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury) that I do acknowledge it
with all imaginable thanks to my gracious God.
6 June. I visited my Lady Pierpoint, daughter to Sir John Evelyn
of Deane [In Wilts], now widow of Mr Pierpoint, and mother of the
Earl of Kingston. She was now engag'd in the marriage of my cousin
Evelyn Pierpoint, her second son.
There was about this time brought into the Downs a vast treasure, i
wCQ was sunk in a Spanish galloon about 45 years ago somewhere
neere Hispaniola or the Bahama islands, and was now weigh'd up by
some gentlemen, who were at the charge of divers, &c. to the enrich
ing them beyond all expectation. The Duke of Albemarle's* share
[Governor of Jamaica] came to, I believe, .§£.50,000. Some private
gentlemen who adventur'd ,=£.100 gain'd from 8 to ,=£.10,000. His
Majesty's tenth was ^.10,000.
The Camp was now againe pitch'd at Hounslow, the Commanders
profusely vying in the expence and magnificence of tents.
12. Our Vicar preached on 2 Peter 2, 21, upon the danger of
relapsing into sin. After this I went and heard M. Lamot, an eloquent
French preacher at Greenewich, on 30 Prov. 8, 9, a consolatory dis
course to the poore and religious refugees who escaped out of France in
the cruel persecution.
16. 1 went to Hampton Court to give his Ma* thanks for his late
gracious favor, tho' it was but granting what was due. Whilst I was
in the Council Chamber, came in some persons at the head of whom
was a formal man with a large roll of parchment in his hand, being an

* The Duke's share amounted to considerably more — it was said about ^.90,000. A medal
Was struck on this occasion, which is engrav'd in Mr. Evelyn's book on that subject, No.
LXXXV1I. p. 151.
VOL. I. 4 N

642 [168;*
Addresse (as he said, for he introduc'd it with a speech) of the people
of Coventry giving his Ma* their greate acknowledgments for his
granting a liberty of conscience ; he added that, this was not the appli
cation of one party onely, but the unanimous addresse of Church of-
England men, Presbyterians, Independents and Anabaptists, to shew
how extensive his Ma*'s grace was, as taking in all parties to his in
dulgence and protection, which had taken away all dissentions and
animosities, wch would not onely unite them in bonds of Christian
charity, but exceedingly encourage their future industry, to the im
provement of trade, and spreading his Ma*'s glory throughout the
world ; and that now he had given to God his empire, God would
establish his; with expressions of greate loyal tie and submission; and so
he gave the roll to the King, weh being return'd to him againe his Ma*
caus'd him to read. The Addresse was short, but much to the sub
stance of yc Speech of their foreman, to whom the King, pulling off
his hat, sayd, that what he had don in giving liberty of conscience,
was, what was. ever his judgment ought to be don; and that as he
would preserve them in their enjoyment of it during his relgne, so he
would indeavour to settle it by Law, that it should never be alter'd by
his successors. After this he gave them his hand to kisse. It was
reported the subscribers were above 1000.
But this is not so remarkable as an Addresse of the weeke before' (as
I was assur'd by one present) of some of the Family of Love. His
Ma* ask'd them what this worship consisted in, and how many their
party might consist of ; they told him their custom was to reade the
Scripture and then to preach, but did not give any farther account,
onely sayd that for the rest they were a sort of refin'd Quakers, but
their number very small, not consisting, as they sayd, of above three
score in all, and those cheifly belonging to the Isle of Ely.
18. I din'd at Mr. Blathwaite's (2 miles from Hampton). This gen
tleman is Secretary of War, Clerk of the Counsel, &c. having rais'd
himselfe by his industry from very moderate circumstances. He is a
very proper, handsome person, and very dextrous in bulsinesse, and be
sides all this, has married a greate fortune. His income by the Army,
Counsel, and Secretary to ye Committee of forraine plantations, brings
him in above <s£.2000 per ann.

1687-] 643
23. The privy seale for .§£.6000 was pass'd to me, so that this
tedious affaire was dispatch'd. — Hitherto a very windy and tempestuous
summer. — The French sermons to the refugees were continu'd at
Greenewich Church.
19 July. I went to Wotton. In the way I din'd at Ash ted with my
Lady Mordaunt.
5 Aug. I went to see Albury, now purchas'd by Mr. Finch (the
King's Solicitor, and son to the late Lord Chancellor) ; I found the
garden wch I first design'd for the Duke of Norfolk, nothing improv'd.
15. I went to visite Lord Clarendon at Swallow-field, where was
my Lord Cornbery just ariv'd from Denmark, whither he had accom
panied the Prince of Denmark two months before, and now come back.
The miserable tyranny under which that nation lives he related to us ;
the King keeps them under by an army of 40,000 men, all Germans,
he not daring to trust his owne subjects. Notwithstanding this, the
Danes are exceeding proud, the country very poore and miserable.
22. Returned home to Says Court from Wotton, having ben five
weekes absent with my brother and friends, who entertained us very
nobly. God be praised for his goodnesse, and this refreshment after my
many troubles, and let his mercy and providence ever preserve me. Amen.
3 Sept. The Lord Mayor sent me an Officer with a Staff, to be one
of the Governors of S' Thomas's Hospital.
Persecution raging in France ; divers churches there fir'd by light
ning. Priests struck, consecrated hosts, &c. burnt and destroy'd, both
at S* Malo's and Paris, at ye grand procession on Corpus Christi day.
13. I went to Lambeth, and din'd with the Abp. After dinner I
retired into the library, which I found exceedingly improv'd ; there are
also divers rare manuscripts in a roome apart.
6 Oct. I was godfather to Sr John Chardin's sonn, christen'd at
Greenewich Church, nam'd John. The Earle of Bath and Countesse
of Carlisle, the other Sponsors.
29. An Anabaptist, a very odd ignorant person, a mechanic I think,
was Lord Mayor *. The King and Queene, and Dadi f the Pope's
* Sir John Peake.
f Count D'Ada, made afterwards a Cardinal for his services in this embassy.

644 [1687.
^Nuncio, invited to feast at Guildhall. A strange turne of affaires, that
those who scandaliz'd the Church of England as favourers of Popery,
should publiqly invite an emissary from Rome, one who represented
the very person of their Antichrist !
10 Dec. My son was return'd out of Devon, where he had ben on
a Commission from the Lords of the Treasury about a concealment of
land. 20. I went with my Lord Cheife Justice Herbert to see his house
at Walton on Thames*: it is a barren place. To a very ordinary house
he had built a very handsome library, designing more building to it
than the place deserves In my opinion. He desir'd my advice about
laying out his gardens, &c. The next day we went to Weybridge to
see some pictures of the Dutchesse of Norfolk's, particularly the statue,
or child in gremio, said to be of Mich. Angelo, but there are reasons
to think it rather a copy, from some proportion in the figures ill taken.
It was now expos'd to sale.
1688. 12 Jan. Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, being under
very deplorable circumstances on account of his creditors, and espe
cialy the King, I did my endeavor with ye Lords of the Treasury to
be favourable to him.
My Lord Arran, eldest son to the Duke of Hamilton, being now
married to Lady Ann Spencer, eldest daughter of the Earle of Sunder
land, Lord President of the Council, I and my family had most glorious
favours sent us, the wedding being celebrated with extraordinary splen
dour. 15. There was a( solemne and particular Office us'd at our, and all
the Churches of London and 10 miles round, for a thanksgiving to God,
for her Majesty being with child.
22. This afternoone I went not to Church, being employed on a
religious treatise I had undertaken f.

* This is a mistake ; the house was Oatlands in Weybridge. He followed the fortunes of King
James, who gave him his great seal. He was attainted, and Oatlands given to his brother Adm.
Herbert. He published an apology for the judgment he had given in favour of the King's dispens
ing powers, which was answered by Mr. Atwood and Sir Robert Atkins. Manning and Bray's Hist.
of Surrey, II. 786.
t What this was does not appear ; but there are several of his composition, remaining in MS.

1688.] 645
Post annum 1588—1660—1688, Annus Mirabilis Tertius*.
Jan. 30. Being the Martyrdome day of K. Charles ye First, our Curate
made a florid oration against the murder of that excellent Prince, with
an exhortation to obedience from the example of David, 1 Samuel 24, 6.
12 Feb. My daughter Evelyn going in the coach to visite in the
Citty, a jolt (the doore being not fast shut) flung her quite out in such
manner as the hind wheeles passed over her a little above her knees. Yet
it pleased God, besides the bruises of the wheeles, she had no other
harme. In two days she was able to walke, and soone after perfectly
well ; thro' God Almighty's greate mercy to an excellent wife and a
most dutiful and discreete daughter-in-law.
17- I receiv'd the sad news of my niece Mountague's death at
Woodcot on the 15th.
15 Mar. I gave in my account about the Sick and Wounded, in order
to have my quietus.
23. Dr. Parker, Bishop of Oxford, who so lately publish'd his
extravagant treatise about transubstantiation, and for abrogating the
Test and Penal Laws, died. He was esteem'd a violent, passionate,
haughty man, but yet being press'd to declare for the Church of Rome,
he utterly refus'd it. A remarkable end.
The French Tyrant now finding he could make no proselytes amongst
those Protestants of quality, and others, whom he had caus'd to be
shut up in dungeons, and confin'd to nunneries and monasteries, gave
them, after so long trial, a general releasement, and leave to go out of
the kingdom, but utterly taking away their estates, and their children ;
so that greate numbers came daily into England and other places, where
they were receiv'd and relieved with very considerate Christian charity.
This Providence and goodnesse of God to those who thus constantly
held out, did so work upon those miserable poore souls, who, to avcfyd
the persecution sign'd their renunciation, and to save their estates went
to masse, that reflecting on what they had don, they grew so affected
in their conscience, that not being able to support it, they in greate
numbers thro' all the French provinces, acquainted the Magistrates and
* This seems added after the page was written.

646 [1688.
-Lieutenants that, being sorry for their apostacy, they were resolv'd to
return to their old religion ; that they would go no more to masse, but
peaceably assemble when they could, to beg pardon and worship God,
but so withoutweapons as not to give the least umbrage of rebellion
or sedition, imploring their pity and commiseration ; and accordingly
meeting so from time to time, the dragoon missioners, Popish officers
and priests, fell upon them, murder'd and put them to death, whoever
they could lay hold on; they without the least resistance embraced death,
torture or hanging, with singing psalmes and praying for their perse
cutors to the last breath, yet still continuing the former assembling of
themselves in desolate places, suffering with incredible constancy, that
thro' God's mercy they might obtain pardon for this lapse. Such ex
amples of Christian behaviour have not ben seen since the primitive
persecutions ; and doubtlesse God will do some signal worke in the end,
if we can with patience and resignation hold out, and depend on his
Providence. 24 Mar. I went with Sr Charles Littleton to Sheene, an house and
estate given him by Lord Brouncker ; one who was ever noted for a
hard, covetous, vicious man, but for his worldly craft and skill in
gaming few exceeded him. Coming to die, he bequeath'd all his land,
house, furniture, &c. to Sir Charles, to whom he had no manner of re
lation, but an ancient friendship contracted at the famous siege of Col
chester, 40 yeares before. It is a pretty place, with fine gardens, and
well planted, and given to one worthy of them, Sir Charles being an
honest gentleman and souldier. He is brother to Sir Henry Littleton
of Worcestershire, whose greate estate he is likely to inherit, his bro
ther being without children. They are descendants of the great lawyer
of that name, and give the same arms and motto. He is married to
one Mrs. Temple, formerly maide of honour to the late Queene, a
beautiful lady, and he has many fine children, so that none envy his
good fortune.
After dinner we went to see Sr Wm Temple's neere to It ; the most
remarkable things are his orangerie and gardens, where the wall fruit
trees are most exquisitely nail'd and train'd, far better than I ever noted.

1688.] 647
There are many good pictures, especialy of Vandyke's, in both these
houses, and some few statues and small busts in the latter.
From thence we went to Kew, to visite Sir Henry Capell's, whose
orangerie and myrtelum are most beautifull and perfectly well kept.
He was contriving very high palisados of reeds to shade his oranges
during the summer, and painting those reeds in oil.
* 1 April. In the morning the first sermon was by Dr. Stillingfleet
Dean of St. Paul's (at Whitehall) on 10 Luke 41, 42. The holy Com
munion follow'd, but was so interrupted by the rude breaking in of
multitudes zealous to hear the second sermon, to be preach'd by the
Bp. of Bath and Wells, that the latter part of that holy office could
hardly be heard, or the sacred elements be distributed without greate
trouble. The Princesse being come, he preach'd on 7 Mich. 8. 9. 10.
describing the calamity of the Reform'd church of Judah under the
Babylonian persecution, for her sins, and God's delivery of her on her
repentance ; that as Judah emerg'd so should the now Reform'd
Church, wherever insulted and persecuted. He preach'd with his ac-
custom'd action, zeal, and energy, so that people flock'd from all quar
ters to heare him.
15 April. A dry, cold, backward spring, easterly winds.
The persecution still raging in France, multitudes of Protestants, and
many very considerable and greate persons flying hither, produc'd a se
cond general contribution, the Papists, by God's Providence, as yet
making small progress amongst us.
29. The weather was, till now, so cold and sharp, by an almost
perpetual East wind# which had continued many monthes, that there
was little appearance of any Spring, and yet the Winter was very fa
vourable as to frost and snow.
2 May. To London about my petition for allowances upon the ac
count of Commissioner for sick and wounded in the former war with
Holland. 8. His Ma*, alarm'd by the greate fleete of the Dutch (whilst we
had a very inconsiderable one), went down to Chatham ; their fleete
was well prepar'd, and out, before we were in any readlnesse, or had
any considerable number to have encounter'd them had there ben occa_

648 [1688.
sion, to the great reproch of the Nation; whilst being in profound peace,
there was a mighty land army, wcb there was no neede of, and no force
at sea, where only was the apprehension ; but the army was doubtless
kept and increas'd in order to bring in and countenance Popery, the
King beginning to discover his intentions, by many instances persued
by the Jesuits, against his first resolution to alter nothing in the
Church establishment, so that it appear'd there can be no reliance on
Popish promises.
18. The King injoyning the ministers to read his Declaration for
giving liberty of conscience (as it was styl'd) in all the Churches of
England, this evening 6 Bishops, Bath and Wells *, Peterborough f ,
Ely X, Chichester §, S* Asaph ||, and Bristol f, In the name of all the
rest of the Bishops, came to his Ma* to petition him that he would not
impose the reading of it to the several congregations within their dio
ceses ; not that they were averse to the publishing of it for want of due
tendernesse towards Dissenters, in relation to whom they should be
willing to come to such a temper as should be thought fit, when that
matter might be consider'd and settl'd in Parliament and Convocation ;
but that, the Declaration being founded on such a dispensing power as
might at pleasure set aside all Laws Ecclesiastical and Civil, it appear'd
to them illegal, as it had done to the Parliament in 1661 and 1672,
and that it was a point of such consequence, that they could not so far
make themselves parties to it, as the reading of it in Church in time of
divine service amounted" to.
The King was so far incens'd at this addresse, that he with threaten
ing expressions commanded them to obey him in reading it at their
perils, and so dismiss'd them.
20. I went to White-hall Chapell, where, after the morning les
sons, the Declaration was read by one of y" Choir who us'd to read the
chapters. I heare it was read In the AJbby Church, Westminster, but
almost universaly forborne throughout all London : the consequences of
which a little time will shew.

* Thomas Ken. f Thomas White. + Francis Turner.
§ John Lake. || William Lloyd. % Sir John Trelawny, Bart.

1688.] 649
25. All the discourse now was about the Bishops refusing to read
ye injunction for ye abolition of the Test, &c. It seemes the injunction
came so crudely from the Secretary's office, that it was neither seal'd
nor sign'd in forme, nor had any Lawyer ben consulted, so as the Bi
shops, who took all imaginable advice, put the Court to greate difficul
ties how to proceede against them. Greate were the consults, and a
proclamation expected all this day, but nothing was don. The action
of the Bishops was universaly applauded, and reconcil'd many adverse
parties, Papists only excepted, who were now exceedingly perplex'd, and
violent courses were every moment expected. Report was that the Pro
testant secular Lords and Nobility would abett the Clergy.
The Queene Dowager, hitherto bent on her returne into Portugal,
now on the sudden, on allegation of a greate debt oweing her by his
Ma* disabling her, declares her resolution to stay.
News ariv'd of the most prodigious earthquake that was almost ever
heard of, subverting the citty of Lima and country in Peru, with a
dreadfull inundation following it.
8 June. This day the Archbishop of Canterbury, with the Bishops
of Ely, Chichester, S' Asaph, Bristol, Peterborough, and Bath and
Wells, were sent from the Privy Council prisoners to the Tower, for
refusing to give baile for their appearance, on their not reading the
Declaration for liberty of conscience ; they refus'd to give baile, as it
would have prejudic'd their Peerage. The concern of the people for
them was wonderfull, infinite crouds on their knees begging their
blessing, and praying for them as they pass'd out of the barge along
the Tower-wharfe.
10. A young Prince borne, which will cause disputes.
About 2 o'clock we heard the Tower ordnance discharg'd, and the
bells ringing for the birth of a Prince of Wales. This was very sur
prizing, it having ben universally given out that her Ma* did not look
till the next moneth.
13. I went to the Tower to see the Bishops, visited the Abp. and
Bps. of Ely, S* Asaph, and Bath and Wells.
14. Din'd with my Lord Chancellor.
vol* l 4 o

650 [1688.
15 June. Being the first day of Term, the Bishops were brought to
Westminster on Habeas Corpus, when the Indictment was read, and
they were called on to plead ; their Counsel objected that the Warrant
was illegal, but after long debate it was over-ruled, and they pleaded.
The Court then offered to take bail for their appearance, but this they
refused, and at last were dismissed on their own recognizances to ap
peare that day fortnight ; the Abp. in 200Z. the Bishops 100/. each.
29. They appeared; the trial lasted from 9 in the morning to past
6 in the evening, when the Jury retired to consider of their verdict, and
the Court adjourned to 9 the next morning. The Jury were locked up
till that time, 1 1 of them being for an acquittal, but one (Arnold a
brewer) would not consent. At length he agreed with the others. The
Cheif Justice Wright behaved with great moderation and civility to the
Bishops. Alibone, a Papist, was strongly against them ; but Holloway
and Powell being of opinion in their favour, they were acquitted.
When this was heard, there was great rejoicing ; and there was a lane
of people from the King's Bench to the water side, on. their knees, as
the Bishops pass'd and repass'dj to beg their blessing. Bonfires were
made that night, and bells rung, which was taken very ill at Court,
and an appearance of neere 60 Earls and Lords, &c. on the bench, did
not a little comfort them, but indeede they were all along full of comfort
and cheerfull.
Note, they denied to pay the Lieut' of the Tower (Hales, who us'd
them very surlily) any fees, alledging that none were due.
17- Was a day of Thanksgiving in London and 10 miles about for
the young Prince's birth ; a form of prayer made for the purpose by the
Bp. of Rochester.
The night was solemniz'd with bonfires and other fire-works &c.
2 July. The two Judges Hollow,ay and Powell were displaced.
3. I went with Dr. Godolphin and his brother Sir Wm to St.
Alban's to see a library he would have bought of the widow of Dr.
Cartwrite, late . Archdeacon of St. Alban's, a very good collection of
books, especialy in divinity ; he was to give s8.300 for them. Having
seen the greate Church, now newly repair'd by a public contribution
we return'd home.

1688.] 651
8. One of the King's Chaplains preach'd before the Princess on 14
Exodus 13, " Stand still and behold the salvation of the Lord,'^ wch he
applied so boldly to the present conjuncture of the Church of England,
that more could scarce be said to encourage desponders. The Popish
Priests were not able to carry their cause against their learned adversa
ries, who confounded them both by their disputes and writings.
12. The Camp now began at Hounslow, but the Nation was in
high discontent.
Col. Titus, Sir Hen. Vane (son of him who was executed for his
treason), and some other of the Presbyterians and Independent party,
were sworne of yc Privy Council, from hopes of thereby diverting that
party from going over to yc Bishops and Church of England, which
now they began to do, foreseeing the designe of the Papists to descend
and take in their most hateful of heretics (as they at other times ex
pressed them to be) to effect their own ends, now evident ; the utter
extirpation of the Church of England first, and then the rest would
follow. 17 July. This night the Fireworks were plaied off, that had ben
prepar'd for the Queene's up-sitting. We saw them to great advan
tage ; they were very fine, and cost some thousands of pounds, in the
pyramids, statues, &c. but were spent too soone for so long a preparation.
26. I went to Lambeth to visit the Archbp. whom I found very
cheerfull. 10 Aug. Dr. Tenison now told me there would suddenly be- some
greate thing disco ver'd. This was the Prince of Orange intending to
come over.
15. I went to Althorp in Northamptonshire, 70 miles. A coach
and 4 horses took up me and my sonn at White-hall, and carried us to
Dunstable, where we ariv'd and din'd at noone, and from thence ano
ther coach and 6 horses carried us to Althorp, 4 miles beyond North
ampton, where we ariv'd by 7 o'clock that evening. Both these
vcoaches were hir'd for me by that noble Countesse of Sunderland, who
invited me to her house at Althorp *, where she entertain'd me and my
sonn with very extraordinary kindness ; I stay'd till the Thursday.
* See a former visit to this place, p. 478.

652 [1688.
18. Dr. Jeffryes, the. minister of Althorp, who was my Lord's
chaplain when Ambassr in France, preach'd the shortest discourse I ever
heard ; but what was defective in the amplitude of his sermon, he had
supplied in the largeness and convenience of the Parsonage house, wcU
the Dr (who had at least gS.600 a year in spiritual advancement) had
new built, and made fit for a person of quality to live in, with gardens
and all accommodation according therewith.
My lady carried us to see Lord Northampton's seat, a very strong
large house, built with stone, not altogether modern. They were en
larging the garden, in which was nothing extraordinary, except the iron
gate opening into the Park, wch indeede was very good work, wrought
in flowers, painted with blue and gilded. There is a noble walke of
elmes towards the front of the house, by the bowling greene. I was
not in any roome of the house besides a lobby looking into the garden,
where my Lord and his new Countesse (Sr Ste. Fox's daughter, whom
I had knowne from a child) entertain'd the Countesse and her daughter
the Countesse of Arran (newly married to the son of the Duke of Ha
milton) with so little good grace, and so dully, that our visite was very
short, and so we return'd to Althorp, 12, miles distant.
The house, or rather palace, at Althorp, is a noble uniform pile In
form of a half H, built of brick and freestone, ballustred and a la- mo
derne ; the hall is well, the staircase excellent ; the roomes of state,
gallerys, offices and furniture, such as may become a greate Prince. It
is situate in the midst of a garden, exquisitely planted and kept, and all
this in a parke wall'd in with hewn stone, planted with rows and walkes
of trees, canals and fish .ponds, and stor'd with game. And what is
above all this, govern'd by a lady, who without any shew of sollicitude,
keepes every thing in such admirable order, both within and without,
from the garret to the cellar, that I do not believe there is any In this
nation, or in any other, that exceedes her in such exact order, without
ostentation, but substantially greate and noble. The meanest servant
is lodg'd so neat and cleanly ; the service at the several tables, the good
order and decency — in a word, the intire ceconomy, is perfectly becoming
a wise and noble person. She is one who for her distinguish'd esteeme
of me from a long and worthy friendship, I must ever honour and cele-

1688.] 653
brate. I wish from my soul the Lord her husband (whose parts and
abilities are otherwise conspicuous) was as worthy of her, as by a fatal
apostacy and court ambition he has made himself unworthy. This is
what she deplores, and it renders her as much affliction as a lady of
greate soul and much prudence is capable of. The Countesse of Bristol,
her mother, a grave and honorable lady, has the comfort of seeing her
daughter and grandchildren under the same ceconomy, especialy Mr.
Charles Spencer *, a youth of extraordinary hopes, very learned for his
age, and ingenious, and under a governor of greate worth. Happy
were it could as much be said of the elder brother, the Lord Spencer,
who, rambling about ye world, dishonours both his name and his fa
mily, adding sorrow to sorrow to a mother who has taken all imagin
able care of his education. There is a daughter very young married to
the Earl of Clancartie, who has a greate and faire estate in Ireland, but
who yet gives no greate presage of worth, — so universally contaminated
is the youth of this corrupt and abandon'd age ! But this is againe
recompenc'd by my Lord Arran, a sober and worthy gentleman, who
has espous'd the Lady Ann Spencer, a young lady of admirable accom
plishments and virtue.
23. I left this noble place and conversation, my lady having pro
vided carriages to convey us back in the same manner as we went, and
a dinner being prepared at Dunstable against our arival. Northamp
ton, having ben lately burnt and re-edified, is now become a town that
for the beauty of the buildings, especialy the church and town-house,
may compare with the neatest in Italy itselfe.
Dr. Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, wrote a very honest and handsome
letter to the Commissioners Ecclesiastical, excusing himselfe from
sitting any longer among them, he by no meanes approving of their
prosecuting the Cleargy who refus'd to reade the Declaration for liberty
of conscience, in prejudice of the Church of England.

* The eldest son dying without issue, this Charles succeeded to the title and estate, and mar
rying to his second wife one of the daughters and at length coheirs to John Duke of Marlborough*
his son by her succeeded to that "title.

654 [i6S8-

ch

The Dutch make extraordinary preparations both at sea and land, w
with the very small progresse Popery makes among us, puts us to many
difficulties. The Popish Irish soldiers commit many murders and in
sults ; the whole Nation disaffected, and in apprehensions.
After long trials of the doctors to bring up the little Prince of Wales
by hand (so many of her Ma*'s children having died infants) not suc
ceeding, a country nurse, the wife of a tile-maker, is taken to give it
suck. 18 Sept. I went to London, where I found the Court in the utmost
consternation on report of the Prince of Orange's landing, wch put
White-hall into so pa-nic a feare, that I could hardly believe it possible
to find such a change.
Writs were issued in order to a Parliament, and a declaration to back
the good order of elections, with greate professions of maintaining the
Church of England, but without giving any sort of satisfaction to the
people, who shew'd their high discontent at several things in the Go
vernment. Earthquakes 'had utterly demolish'd the ancient Smyrna, and several
other places in Greece, Italy, and even in the Spanish Indies, fore
runners of greater calamities. God Almighty preserve his Church and
all who put themselves under the shadow of his wings, till these things
be over-past !
30. The Court in so extraordinary a consternation on assurance of
the Prince of Orange's intention to land, that the writs sent forth for a
Parliament were recall'd.
7 Oct. Dr. Tenison preach'd at St. Martines, on 2 Tim. 3. 16.
shewing the Scriptures to be our only rule of faith, and its perfection
above all traditions. After wch neere 1000 devout persons partook of
the Communion. This sermon was cheifly occasion'd by a Jesuite, who
in the Masse-house on the Sunday before had disparag'd the Scripture
and rall'd at our translation, wch some present contradicting, they
pull'd him out of the Pulpit, and treated him very coarsely, insomuch
that it was like to create a greate disturbance in the Citty.
Hourly expectation of the Prince of Orange's invasion heighten'd
to that degree that his Ma* thought fit to abrogate the Commission for

1688.] 655
the dispensing power (but retaining his own right still to dispense with
all laws) and restore the ejected Fellows of Magdalen College, Oxford.
In the mean time he call'd over 5000 Irish, and 4000 Scots, and con
tinued to remove Protestants and put in Papists at Portsmouth and
other places of trust, and retained the Jesuites about him, increasing the
universal discontent. It brought people to so desperate a passe, that
they seem'd passionately to long for and desire the landing of that
Prince whom they look'd on to be their deliverer from Popish tyranny,
praying incessantly for an East wind, wcb was said to be the only
hindrance of his expedition with a numerous army ready to make a
descent. To such a strange temper, and unheard-of in former times,
was this poore Nation reduc'd, and of which I was an eye-witness. The
apprehension was (and with reason) that his Majesty's forces would
neither at land or sea oppose them with that vigour requisite to repel
invaders. The late imprison'd Bishops were now call'd to reconcile matters,
and the Jesuites hard at worke to foment confusion among the Pro
testants by their usual tricks. A letter was sent to the Abp. of Can
terbury *, informing him, from good hands, of what was contriving by
* By Mr. Evelyn. The letter was as follows :
" My Lord, The honor and reputation which yr Grace's piety, prudence, and signal courage,
have justly merited and obtain'd not onely from the Sons of the Church of England, but even
universaly from those Protestants amongst us who are Dissenters from her discipline ; God
Almighty's providence and blessing upon y Grace's vigilancy and extraordinary endeavors will
not suffer to be diminish'd in this conjuncture. The conversation I now and then have with
some in place, who have the opportunity of knowing what is doing in the most seacret recesses
and cabals of our Churches adversaries, obliges me to acquaint you, that the calling of yr Grace
and the rest of the Lds Bishops to Court, and what has there of late ben requir'd of you, is onely
to create a jealousie and suspicion amongst well-meaning people of such compliances as it is
certaine they have no cause to apprehend. The Plan of this and of all that wch is to follow of
seeming favour thence, is wholy drawn by the Jesuites, who are at this time more than ever
buisy to make divisions amongst us, all other arts and mechanisms having hitherto failed them.
They have, with other things, contriv'd that yr Ldships the Bishops should give his Mar? advice
separately, without calling any of the rest "of the Peeres, which, tho' maliciously suggested,
spreads generaly about the Towne. I do not at all question but yr Grace will speedily prevent
the operation of this venome, and that you will thinke it highly necessary so to do, that yr Grace
is also injoyn'd to compose a form of prayer, wherein the Pr. of O. is expressly to be named the
Invader : of this I presume not to say any thing ; but for as much as in all the Declarations,
&c- which have hitherto been published in pretended favour of the Church of England, there is

656 [1688.
them. A paper of what the Bishops advis'd his Ma* was publish'd.
The Bishops were injoin'd to prepare a form of prayer against the fear'd
invasion. A pardon publish'd. Souldiers and mariners dally press'd.
14 Oct. The King's birth-day. No gunns from the Tower as usual.
The sun eclips'd at its rising. This day signal for the victory of Wil
liam the Conqueror against Harold, near Battel in Sussex. The wind,
wob had been hitherto West, was East all this day. Wonderfull ex
pectation of the Dutch fleet. Public prayers order'd to be read in the
Churches against invasion.
28. A tumult in London on the rabble demolishing a Popish
Chapel that had ben set up in the Citty.
29. Lady Sunderland acquainted me with his Ma*s taking away
the seales from Lord Sunderland, and of her being with the Queene to
intercede for him. It is conceiv'd that he had of late, grown remisse
in pursuing the interest of the Jesuitical Counsells ; some reported one
thing, some another ; but there was doubtless some secret betray'd
which time may discover.
There, was a Counsel call'd, to wch were summon'd the Archbp. of
Canterbury, the Judges, the Lord Maior, &c. The Queene Dowager,
and all the Ladies and Lords who were present at the Queene Con
sort's labour, were to give their testimony upon oath of the Prince of
Wales's birth, recorded both at the Counsel Board and at the Chan
cery a day or two after. This procedure was censur'd by some as below

not once the least mention of the Reformed or Protestant Religion, but onely of the Church of
England as by Law established, which Church the Papists, tell us is the Church of Rome, which is
(say they) the Catholic Church of England that onely is establish'd by Law; the C. of England
in the Reformed sense so established is but by an usurp'd authority. The antiquity of that would
by these words be explained, and utterly defeate this false and subdolous construction, and take
off all exceptions whatsoever ; if in all extraordinary offices, upon these occasions, the words
Reformed and Protestant were added to that of the Church of England by Law established. And
whosoever threatens to invade or come against us, to ye prejudice of that Church, in God's name,
be they Dutch or Irish, let us heartily pray and fight against them. My Lord, this is, I confesse,
a bold, but honest period; and tho' I am well assur'd that yr Grace is perfectly. acquainted with
all this before, and therefore may blame my impertinence, as that dos aWolgioima-zoTriTv, yet I am
confident you will not reprove the zeale of one who most humbly beggs your Grace's pardon,
with yr blessing. Lond. 10 Oct. 1688." (From a copy in Mr. Evelyn's hand-writing.) See
vol. II. p. 2.

1688.] 657
his Ma* to condescend to, on the talke of the people. It was remark
able that on this occasion the Abp, Marquess of Halifax, the Earles of
Clarendon and Nottingham, refus'd to sit at the Counsel table amongst
Papists, and their bold telling his Ma* that whatever was don whilst
such sate amongst them was unlawfull and incurr'd premunire; — at
least if what I heard be true.
30. I din'd with Lord Preston, made Secretary of State in the
place of the Earle of Sunderland.
Visited Mr. Boyle, when came In the Duke of Hamilton and Earle
of Burlington. The Duke told us many particulars of Mary Queene
of Scots, and her amours with the Italian favorite, &c.
31. My birth-day, being the 68th year of my age. O blessed Lord,
grant that as I grow in yeares, so may I improve in grace ! Be Thou
my protector this following year, and preserve me and mine from those
dangers and greate confusions that threaten a sad revolution to this
sinfull Nation ! Defend thy Church, our holy Religion, and just
Laws, disposing his Ma* to listen to sober and healing Counsels, that
if it be Thy blessed will we may still enjoy that happy tranquillity
which hitherto Thou hast continued to us ! Amen, Amen !
1 Nov. Din'd with Lord Preston with other company at Sir Ste
phen Fox's. Continual alarmes of the Prince of Orange, but no cer
tainty. Reports of his greate losses of horse in the storme, but with
out any assurance. A man was taken with divers papers and printed
manifestos, and carried to Newgate after examination at the Cabinet
Council. There was likewise a Declaration of the States for satisfac
tion of all Public Ministers at the Hague, except to the English and
the French. There was in that of the Prince's an expression as if the
Lords both Spiritual and Temporal had invited him over, with a de
duction of the causes of his enterprize. This made his Ma* convene
my Lord of Canterbury and the other Bishops now in towne, to give
an account of what was in the Manifesto, and to enjoyne them to clear
themselves by some publiq writing of this disloyal charge.
2. It was now certainly reported by some who saw the fleete, and
y* Prince imbarke, that they sail'd from the Brill on Wednesday
vol. l. 4 p

658 [1688.
morning, and that the Princesse of Orange was there to take leave of
her husband.
4. Fresh reports of the Prince being landed somewhere about
Portsmouth or the Isle of Wight, whereas it was thought it would
have ben Northward. The Court in greate hurry.
5. I went to London ; heard the newes of the Prince having landed
at Torbay, coming with a fleete of neere 7^0 saile, passing through
the Channell with so favourable a wind that our navy could not inter
cept or molest them. This put the King and Court into greate con
sternation ; they were now employ'd in forming an army to stop their
further progresse, for they were got into Exeter, and the season and
ways very improper for his Ma*s forces to march so greate a distance.
The Abp. of Canterbury and some few of the other Bishops and
Lords in London were sent for to White-hall, and requir'd to set forth
their abhorrence of this invasion. They assur'd his Ma* they had
never invited any of the Prince's party, or were in the least privy to it,
and would be ready to shew all testimonie of their loyalty ; but as to a
public Declaration, being so few, they desir'd that his Ma* would call
the rest of their brethren and Peeres that they might consult what was
fit to be don on this occasion, not thinking it right to publish any
thing without them, and till they had themselves seen the Prince's
Manifesto, in which it was pretended he was invited in by the Lords
Spiritual and Temporal. This did not please the King ; so they departed.
A Declaration was publish'd prohibiting all persons to see or reade
the Prince's Manifesto, in which was set forth at large the cause of his
expedition, as there had ben one before from the States.
These are the beginnings of sorrow, unlesse God In His mercy pre
vent it by some happy reconciliation of all dissentions amongst us.
This, in all likelihood, nothing can effect except a free Parliament ;
but this we cannot hope to see whilst there are any forces on either
side. I pray God to protect and direct the King for the best and truest
interest of his People ! — I saw his Ma* touch for the evil, Piten the
Jesuit, and Warner officiating.
14. The Prince increases every day in force. Several Lords go in

1688.J 659
to him. Lord Cornberry carries some regiments, marches to Honiton,
the Prince's head quarters. The Citty of London in disorder; the
rabble pull'd down the Nunnery newly bought by the Papists of Lord
Berkeley at St. John's. The Queene prepares to go to Portsmouth for
safety, to attend the issue of this commotion, wch has a dreadfull aspect.
18. It was now very hard frost. The King goes to Salisbury to
rendezvous the army, and returnes to London. Lord Delamere ap-
peares for ye Prince in Cheshire. The Nobility meete in Yorkshire.
The Archbishop of Canterbury and some Bishops, and such Peeres as
were in London, address his Ma* to call a Parliament. The King
invites all Forraine Nations to come over. The French take all the
Palatinate, and alarm the Germans more than ever.
29. I went to the Royal Society. We adjourn'd the election of a
President to 23 April by reason of the public commotions, yet din'd
together as of custome this day.
2 Dec. Dr. Tenison preached at St. Martines on 36 Psalm 5, 6, 7-
concerninp; Providence. I received the blessed Sacrament. Afterwards
visited my Lord Godolphin, then going with the Marquess of Halifax
and Earle of Nottingham as Commissioners to the Prince of Orange ;
he told me they had little power. Plymouth declar'd for the Prince.
Bath, York, Hull, Bristol, and all the eminent Nobility and Persons of
Quality through England, declare for the Protestant Religion and
Laws, and go to meete the Prince, who every day sets forth new
Declarations against the Papists. The great favourites at Court, Priests
and Jesuits, fly or abscond. Every thing, till now conceal'd, flies
abroad in public print, and is cried about the streetes. Expectation of
the Prince coming to Oxford. The Prince of Wales and greate trea
sure sent privily to Portsmouth, the Earle of Dover being Governor.
Addresse from the Fleete not gratefull to his Ma*. The Papists in
offices lay down their commissions, and fly. Universal consternation
amongst them ; it looks like a Revolution.
7. Mv son went towards Oxford. I return'd home.
9. Lord Sunderland meditates flight. The rabble demolish'd all
Popish Chapels, and severall Papist Lords and Gentlemen's houses,
especialy that of the Spanish Ambassador, wch they plllag'd, and burnt
his Library.

660 [1688.
13. The King flies to sea, puts in at Faversham for ballast ; is
rudely treated by the people ; comes back to White-hall.
The Pr. of Orange is advanc'd to Windsor, is invited by the King
to St. James's, the messenger sent was the Earle of Faversham, the
General of the Forces, who going without trumpet or passeport Is
detain'd prisoner by the Prince, who accepts the invitation, but requires
his Ma* to retire to some distant place, that his owne guards may be
quarter'd about the Palace and Citty. This is taken heinously, and
the King goes privately to Rochester ; is persuaded to come back ;
comes on the Sunday ; goes to masse, and dines in publiq, a Jesuit
saying grace (I was present).
17- That night was a Council ; his Ma* refuses to assent to all the
proposals ; goes away again to Rochester.
18. I saw the King take barge to Gravesend at 12 o'clock — a sad
sight ! The Prince comes to St. James's, and fills White-hall with
Dutch guards. A Council of Peeres meete about an expedient to call
a Parliament ; adjourn to the House of Lords. The Chancellor, Earl
of Peterboro', and divers others taken. The Earle of Sunderland flies ;
Sr Edwd. Hales, Walker, and others, taken and secur'd.
All the world go to see the Prince at St. James's, where there is a
greate Court. There I saw him, and severall of my acquaintance who
came over with him. He Is very stately, serious and reserv'd. The
English soldiers sent out of towne to disband them ; not well pleas'd.
24. The King passes Into France, whither the Queene and Child
were gon a few days before,
26. The Peeres and such Commoners as were Members of the Par
liament at Oxford, being the last of Charles II. meeting, desire the
Pr. of Orange to take on him the disposal of the publiq revenue till a
Convention of Lords and Commons should meete in full body, ap
pointed by his circular letters to the Shires and Burroughs, 22 Jan.
— I had now quarter'd upon me a Lieut*. Col. and 8 horses.
30. This day Prayers for the Prince of Wales were first left off in
our Church.

661

ILLUSTRATIONS.

The following Letter from George Evelyn, Esq. elder brother of Mr. J. E.
when at College, to his father Richard at Wotton, 26 Sept. 1636, giving an
account of the Visit made by the King and Queen to the University of
Oxford, with some particulars respecting himself, contains some curious
matter.
I know you have longe desired to heere of my welfaire, and the totall series
of his Majesty's entertainement whilst hee was fixed in the center of our Aca
demic The Archbishop or Ld Chauncelour [Laud] and many Bishops, Doctor
Bayley or Vice Chauncelour, wth the rest of the Doctors of the University,
together wth the Maior of the City, and his brethren, rode out in state to
meet his Majesty, the Bishops in their Pontificall robes, the Doctors in
their scarlet Gowns and their black capps (being the habite of the univer
sity), the Maior and Aldermen in their scarlett Gowns, and 60 other towns
men all in blacke satin doubletts and in old fashion Jacketts. At the ap-
propinquatio' of ye King, after the Beedles Stafes were delivered up to His
Majesty in token y* they yealded up all their autority to him, the Vice
Chauncelor spooke a speech to the King, and presented him wth a Bible in the
Universitys behalfe, the Queene wth Camden's Britannia in English, and the
Prince elect (as 1 toke it) wth Croke's Politicks ; all of them w* gloves (be
cause Oxford is famous for gloves*). A litile nigher the City where ye Citye
bounds are terminated, the Maior presented his Majesty wth a large guilt cupp,

* Gloves always made part of a present from Corporate Bodies at that time, more or less orna
mented with rich fringes according to the quality of the persons to whom they were offered.

662 ILLUSTRATIONS.
et tenet vicinitatem opinio the Recorder of the City made a speech to his Ma
jestie. In the entrance of the Universitie, at St. John's College, he was de
tained wth another speech made by a Fellow of the house. The speech being
ended, he went to Christe-church, schollers standing on both sides of the
street according to their degrees and in their formalitys, clamantes, Fivat Rex
noster Carolus : Being entred Christ-church he had another speech made by
the Universitie Oratour, and studient of the same house : the subject of all
wch speeches being this, expressing their joy and his welcome toye Universitie.
Then retiring himselfe a litile he went to Prayers ; they being ended, soone
after to supper, and then to the Play, whose subject was the Calming of the
Passions ; but it was generallie misliked of the Court, because it was so grave,
but especially because they understood it not. This was the first days enter
tainment. The next morning he had a Sermon in Christ-church, preached by Browne
the Proctor of the University, and a Studient of the house. The Sermon being
ended, the Prince Elect and Prince Rupert went to St. Mary's, where there
was a congregation, and Prince Rupert created Mr of Arts, also many nobles
wth him. The reason why the Prince Elect was not created Mr of Arts, was
because Cambridge or Sister had created him before. The congregation done,
the King, Queene and all the nobles went to the Schooles (the glory of Christen-
dome) where in ye publick Library, his Majesty heard another speech, spoaken
by my Ld Chamberlans 3d sonne, and of Exeter CoUedge, wch speech the K.
liked well. From the Schooles the K. went to St. Johns to dinner, where the
Archbishop entertained his Majesty wth a magnificent dinner and costly Ban
quet [Dessert.] Then wth a Play made by the same house. The Play being
ended, he went to Christ-church, and after supper to another Play, called the
Royall Slave *, all the Actors performing in a Persian habite, wch Play much
delighted his Majesty and all the Nobles, com'ending it for the best y* ever
was acted.
The next morning he departed from the University, all the Doctors kissing
his hand, his Majesty expressing his K* love to ye University, and his coun
tenance demonstrating unto us that he was well pleased wth this his entertain
ment made by us Schollars.

* By William Cartwright, a Student of that College. In this Play one of his fellow Students
(afterwards the famous Dr. Busby) performed a part (that of Cratander) so excellently well, and
with so much applause, that it is said he had almost determined to commence actor on the pub
lick stage,

ILLUSTRATIONS. 663
After the K.s departure there was a Congregation called, where many Doctors,
some Maisters of Arts, and a few Batchelours were created, they procuring it
by making friends to ye Paulsgrave. There were very few that went out that
are now resident, most of them were Lds and gentlemen. A Doctor of Divinity
and Batchelour of Arts were created of or house [Trinity], but they made spe
cial friends to gett it.
W* the =£30. you sent me I have furnished me wa those necessarys I
wanted, and have made me two suits, one of them being a blacke satin doublett
and black cloth breeches, the other a white satin doublett and scarlett hoase ;
the scarlett hoase I shall weare but litile heare, but it will be comely for me
to weare in the country.
Yor desire was that I should be as frugall in my expences as I could, and I
assure you, honoured Sir, I have been ; I have spent none of it in riot or toyes.
You hoped it would be sufficient to furnish me and discharge my battailes for
this Quarter, but I feare it will not, therefore I humbly entreat you to send me
^6. I know what I have already, and wth this I send for, wil be more than
enough to discharge these months, but I know not what occasion may fall out.
Trin. Coll. Oxon, 26. 7br 1636.

II.
In the Edition of Sir Richard Baker's Chronicle published with additions
by Edward Phillips (Milton's nephew) there is an account of the transactions
between Mr. Evelyn and Col. Morley, relative to the latter's being urged by
Mr. Evelyn, after Cromwell's death, to declare for the King. In a subsequent
Edition in 1730, this account is considerably altered. Amongst Mr. Evelyn's
papers at Wotton, there is the original account drawn up by Sir Tho. Clarges
and sent to Mr. Phillips ; it is in Sir Thomas's own hand-writing, was evidently
sent to Mr. Evelyn for his perusal, and is thus indorsed by him :
" Sr Thomas Clarges (brother-in-law to the Duke of Albemarle) insertion of
what concern'd Mr Evelyn & Coll: Morley in the continuation of the History
written by Mr Phillips & added to Sr Rich. Baker's Chronicle. Note that my
lettr to Col: Morley was not rightly copied, there was likewise too much sayd
concerning me, which is better & as it ought to be in the second impres
sion 1664."
Mr. Phillips's account is as follows :
" In the seven hundred and nineteenth page of this History wee omitted to
insert a very materiall negotiation for the Kings service, attempted upon the

664 ILLUSTRATIONS.
interruption given to the Parliament by Col. Lambert and those that joyned
with him therein, which was managed by Mr. Evelin of Says Court by Dept
ford in Kent, an active, vigilant, and very industrious agent on all occasions for
his Maties Restauration; whoo supposing the members of this supposititious
Parliament could not but ill resent that affront, thought to make advantage of
fixing the impression of it to the ruine of the Army, for the effecting whereof
he applied himself to Colonel Herbert Morley, then newly constituted one of
the five Commissioners for the command of the Army, as a person by his birth,
education & interest unlikely to be cordially inclined to prostitute himself to
the ruine of his Country and the infamie of his posteritie.
" Mr. Evelin gave him some visits to tempt his affection by degrees to a con
fidence in him, & then by consequence to ingage him in his designes; and to
induce him the more powerfully thereunto, he put into his hands an excellent
and unanswerable hardie treatise by him written call'd " An Apology for the
Royal Party," wch-he backd with so good arguments and a very dextrous ad
dresse in the prosecution of them, that the Colonel was wholly convinc'd, and
recommended to him the procurement of the Kings pardon for him, his bro
ther in law Mr Fagg, and one or two more of his relations. This Mr Evelin
faithfully promis'd to endeavour, and taking the opportunitie of Sr Samuel
Tuke's goeing at that time into France, he by him acquainted the King (being
then at Pontoise) with the relation of this affaire, wherewith he was so well
pleasd as to declare if Coll. Morley & those for whom he interceded were not
of those execrable Judges of his blessed Royall father, they shuld have his par
don, and he receive such other reward as his services shuld deserve. Upon
the sending this advice to the King the Coll: left London, because of the jea
lousy wch Fleetwood and Lambert had of him ; but before he went he desired
Mr. Evelin to correspond with him in Sussex by the meanes of Mr Fagg his
brother in law, who then lay in the Mewes.
" Mr. Evelin had good reason to believe Colonel Morley very capable of
serving the King at this time, for he had much a better interest in Sussex then
any of his party ; whereby he might have facilitated his Maties reception in
that County in case his affaires had required his landing there; but besides his
power in Sussex, he had (as he said) an influence on two of the best Regiments
of the Army, and good creddit with many of the Officers of the Fleet.
" But before the returne from France of the King's resolution in this- matter
there intervened many little changes in the posture of affairs.
" Upon the advance of General Monck in favour of the Parliament, and the
generall inclination of the Army to him, Colonel Morley expected the restitu-

ILLUSTRATIONS. 665
tion of that power, and with it of his own authority, and was leagued with
Walton and Hazlerig in a private treaty wth Colonel Whetham the Governor
of Portsmouth for the delivery of that garrison to them ; and Fagg went pri
vately from London to raise a Regiment in Sussex to promote these designs,
but was suppress'd before he gott any considerable number of men together.
" Mr Evelin not knowing of these intrigues, in vaine endeavour'd by all
imaginable wayes to communicate the King's pleasure to Morley, whooe was
by this time in the garrison of Portsmouth.
" But when the Parliament resumd their power, and he [Morley] was
placed in the government of the Tower, he [Evelin] thought it expedient to
renew the former negotiation betwixt them for his Maties service, and in order
thereunto he often by visitts made application to him, but could never but
once procure accesse ; and then he dismissed him with a faint answer, " That
he would shortly wait upon him at his Lodging."
" This put Evelin into so much passion that he resolv'd to surmount the
difficulty of accesse by writing freely to him, which he did in this manner :
To Coll: Morley, Lieutenant of the Towre *.
Sr,
For many obligations, but especially for the last testimonies of yr confidence When i transact-
in my friendship, begun so long since, and conserved so inviolably through so ^eHver^opifiT
many changes, and in so universall a decadence of honour, & all that is sacred ^Z^defilre/t-
amongst men, I come with this profound acknowledgement of the favours you j^o^ Ge»" httle
have don me ; and had a great desire to have made this a personall recognition j1™'?' fr M'f»
° 1 o had he don, he
and to congratulate yr returne, and the dignities which yr merites have acquired, ^d received the
Y J . °. J 1 » honour that
and for which none dos more sincerely rejoice; could I promise my selfe the greate man de-
. . i-i , i ¦ served Sf obtained
hapynesse of finding you in yr station at any season wherein the publique, and soone after.
more weighty concernments did afford you the leasure of receiving a Visite,
from a person so inconsiderable as my selfe. But, since I may not hope for
that good fortune, and such an opportunity of conveying my respects, & the
greate affections which I owe you ; I did presume to transmitt this Expresse ;
and by it, to present you with the worthiest indications of my Zeale to con
tinue in the possession of your good graces, by assuring you of my great desires
to serve you in whatsoever may best conduce to yr honour, and to a stability of
it, beyond all that any future contingencies of things can promise : because I

* The following letter is taken from Mr. Evelyn's own copy.
vol. i. 4 a

666 ILLUSTRATIONS.

am

confident, that you have a nobler prospect upon the successe of yr designes,
then to prostitute yr vertues & y1 conduct to serve the passions or avarice of any
particular persons whatsoever ; being (as you are) free and incontaminate, well
borne, and abhorring to dishonour or enrich yr selfe with the spoyles which by
others have ben ravish't from our miserable, yet dearest Country ; and which
renders them so zealous to pursue the ruine of it, by labouring to involve
men of the best natures, and reputation, into their owne inextricable Laba-
rynths, & to gratifie that which will pay them wh so much infamy in the event
of things, & with so inevitable a perdition of their precious soules, when all
these vncertainties (how specious so euer at present) shall vanish and come
to nothing.
There is now, Sr, an opportunity put into yr hands, by improving whereof
you may securely act for the good of yr Country, and the redemption of it
from the insupportable Tyrannies, Injustice and Impieties vnder which it has
now groan'd for so many yeares, through the trechery of many wicked, and
the mistakes of some few good men. For by this, Sr, you shall best do honour
to God, and merite of yr Country ; by this yu shall secure yr selfe, & make yr
name greate to succeeding Ages : by this you shall crowne yr selfe with reall
& lasting dignities. In sum, by jthis, you shall oblige even those whom you
may mistake to be yr greatest Enemies, to embrace & cherish you as a person
becoming the honour of a brave and worthy Patriot, and to be rewarded with
the noblest expressions of it; when, by the best interpretations of yr Charity
and Obedience to the dictates of a Christian, you shall thus heape Coales of
fire vpon their head ; and, which at once will give both light and warmth to
this afflicted Nation, Church, and People, not to be extinguished by any
more of those Impostors whom God has so signally blowne off the stage, to
place such in their stead, as have opportunities given them of restoring us to
our antient knowne Lawes, native and most happy Liberties : It is this, Sr,
which I am oblig'd to wish to encourage yu in, and to pronounce as the wor-
thyest testimonie of my congratulations for yr Returne; and which, you may
assure your selfe, has the suffrages of the sollidest and best ingredient of this
whole Nation. And having sayd thus much, I am sure you will not looke
vpon this letter as a servile Addresse ; but, if you still retaine that favour and
goodnesse for the person who presents it, that I haue reason to promise my selfe,
from the integritie which 1 haue hitherto observed in all yrKprofessions ; I con
jure you to believe, that you haue made a perfect acquisition of my service;
and, that (however events succeede) I am still the same person, greedy of an
opportunity to recom'end the sincerity of my affection, by doing you whatsoeuer

ILLUSTRATIONS. 6'6f
service lyes in my power ; and I hope you shall not find me without some ca
pacities of expressing it in effects, as well as in the words of
honorable Sr &c.
Covent Garden
12th Jan: 14.
" In a note he adds ; Morley was at this time Lieut4 of the Towre of Lon
don, was absolute Master of the Citty, there being very few of the Rebell army
any where neere it, save at Somerset house a trifling garrison wch was marching
out to reinforce Lambert, who was marching upon the newes of Monk's coming
out of Scotland. He was Lieut* of all the Confederate Counties of Sussex,
Surrey, Hampshire, &c. ; his brother-in-law Govr of Portsmouth and Hamp
shire ; his own bro. Wm Morley Govr of Arundel Castle ; in sum he had all
the advantages he could have desired to have raised the well affected of the
Citty & Country universally breathing after a deliverer (uncertain as to what
Monk intended), & so had absolutely prevented any [other] person or power
whatever (in all appearance) from having the honour of bringing in the King,
before those who were in motion could have snatch'd it out of his hand. Of
all this I made him so sensible, when I was with him at the Towre, that no
thing but his fatal diffidence of Monk's having no designe to bring in his Matie
because he had [not] discover'd it while matters were yet in the dark (but ye
designe certainly resolv'd on) kept him wavering & so irresolute (tho he saw
the game sufficiently in his hands) as -to sit still & put it off till Lambert & his
forces being scatter'd & taken, Monk marched into the Citty triumphant with
his wearied Army, possessed the Gates, & with no great cun'ing & little diffi
culty, finding how the people & Magistrates were dispos'd (whever his general
intentions were, or at first seem'd to be), boldly & fortunately brought to pass
that noble Revolution, following it to his eternal honour by restoring a banished
Prince & the People's freedom. This poor Morley saw, & implor'd my inte
rest by w* meanes he might secure himself & obtaine his pardon. This is in
short a true account of that remarkable affaire."
Mr. Phillips goes on thus from Sir Thomas Clarges's paper :
" Wee shall not here determine what it was that induc'd Colonel Morley (at
the time of his being Lieutenant of the Tower) to decline commerce with Mr
Evelin for the Kings service, whether it was that he doubted of the concurrence
of his Officers & Soldiers, whoe had bin long trained up in an aversion to Mo
narchy, or whether by the intire subjection of the Army to Monck, and their
unity thereupon, he thought that work now too difficult, which was more fesi-
ble in the time of their division : But it is most certaine that he took such.

668 ILL USTR ATIONS .
impressions from Mr Evelin's discourses and this letter, that ever after he ap
peared very moderate in his counsells, and was one of the forwardest to embrace
all opportunities for the good of his country; as was evident by his vigorous &
hazardous opposition in Parliament to that impious oath of abjuration of the
Kings family and line (hereafter mentioned) before it was safe for Generall
Monck to discover how he was inclined ; and by his willing conjunction and
confederacy after with the Generall for the admission of the secluded members
in proclamation for a free Parliament for the King's restauration *."

III.

Feb. 6, 1687-8, there was printed what was called "A true and perfect Nar
rative of the strange and unexpected finding the Crucifix and Gold-chain of that
pious Prince, St. Edward the King and Confessor, which was found after 620
years interment, and presented to his most sacred Majesty King James the

* In 1815 Baron Maseres re-published some Tracts relating to the Civil War in England in the
time of King Charles I. amongst which is " The Mystery and Method of his Majesty's happy Re
stauration, by the Rev. Dr. John Price, one of the late Duke of Albemarle's chaplains, who was
privy to all the secret passages and particularities of that Glorious Revolution." Printed in 16S0.
In this tract it is stated that Monk's officers being dissatisfied with the conduct of the Rump Par
liament, pressed him to come to some decision, whereupon, on 11 Feb. 1660, they sent the letter
to the Parliament, desiring them first to fill up vacancies, and then to determine their own sit
ting, and call a new Parliament. Dr. Price then says, " The General yielded at length to their
fears and counsells, and the rather for that he was assured of the Tower of London, the Lieutenant
of it (Col. Morley) having before offered it to him. This the noble Colonel had done in the City,
pitying the consternation of the Citizens when he saw what work was doing [Monk's pulling
down the City Gates a few days before by order of the Rump Parliament] and what influence it
would have on the country." He adds, " that though the Rump did not dare to take away the
General's Commission as one of their Commissioners for governing the army, they struck out his
name from the quorum of them, which virtually did take away his authority, and he and Morley
were left to stem the tide against Hazlerigg, Alured, and Walton."
These are the only mentions which he makes of Morley, by which it seems that the first com
munication between him and Monk was when the latter had broken down the City Gates, on the
9th February.
Had there been any .previous concert between Monk and Morley, the latter would not have
wanted Mr. Evelyn's assistance to obtain his pardon, which however he did want, and obtained
through Mr. Evelyn.
See vol. I. of this work, p. 319.

ILLUSTRATIONS. 669
Second. By Charles Taylour, Gent. London, printed by J. B. and are to
be sold by Randal Taylor, near Stationers' Hall, 1688."
He says, that " on St. Barnaby's Day, 1685, between 11 and 12 at noon,
he went with two friends to see the coffin of Edward the Confessor, having
heard that it was broke ; fetched a ladder, looked on the coffin and found a
hole as reported, put his hand into the hole, and turning the bones which he
felt there, drew from under the shoulder bones a crucifix richly adorned and
enamelled, and a golden chain of 24 inches long to which it was fixed ; shewed
them to his two friends ; was afraid to take them away till he had acquainted the
Dean; put them into the coffin again; but the Dean not being to be spoke
with then, and fearing this treasure might be taken by some other, he went
two or three hours after to one of the Quire, acquainted him with what he had
found, who accompanied him to the monument, from whence he again drew
the crucifix and chain; his friend advised him to keep them until he could shew
them to the Dean (the Bp. of Rochester) ; kept them three weeks before he
could speak to the Bishop; went to the Abp. of York, and shewed them; next
morning the Abp. of York carried him to the Abp. of Canterbury at Lambeth,
and shewed them. After this he procured an exact drawing to be made of
them ; shewed them to Sir William Dugdale. 6 July, the Abp. of Canter
bury told the Bp. of Rochester, who, about four that afternoon, sent for him,
and took him to Whitehall, that he might present them to the King, which he
did accordingly. The King ordered a new strong wooden coffin to be made to
inclose the broken one. Tbe links of the chain oblong, and curiously wrought;
the upper part joined by a locket, composed of a large round nob of gold,
massy, in circumference as big as a milled shilling, half an inch thick; round
this went a wire and half a dozen little beads, hanging loose, running to and
again on the same, all of pure gold, and finely wrought; on each side of the
locket were set two large square stones (supposed to be rubies). From each side
of this locket, fixed to two rings of gold, the chain descends, and, meeting below,
passes through a square piece of gold of a convenient bigness, made hollow for
the same purpose. This gold, wrought into several angles, was painted with
divers colours, resembling gems or precious stones, to which the crucifix was
joined, yet to be taken off by help of a screw. The form of the cross nearest
that of an humettee flory (among the Heralds), or rather the botany [botonee],
yet the pieces not of equal length, the perpendicular beam being near one-fourth
part longer than the traverse, as being four inches to the extremity, whilst the
other scarce exceeds three ; yet all neatly turned at the ends, and the botons
enamelled with figures thereon. The cross, of the same gold as the chain, but

670 ILLUSTRATIONS.
exceeds it by its rich enamel, having on one side the picture of our Saviour
Christ in his passion wrought thereon, and an eye from above casting a kind
of beam on him ; on the reverse, picture of a Benedictine Monk in his habit,
and on each side of him these capital Roman letters : —
On the right, And on the lefty
(A) P
ZAX A C
A H
This cross is hollow, to be opened by two little screws towards the top, wherein,
it is presumed, some relique might have been conserved. William I. com
manded the coffin to be inshrined, and the shrine covered with plates of gold
and silver, adorned with pearls and precious stones. About 156 years after, the
Abbot resolved to inspect the body, said to be incorruptible, and on opening
found it to be so, being perfect, the limbs flexible ; the face covered: Gundolph,
Bishop of Rochester, withdrew the cover, but, with great reverence, covered
it again, changing the former vestments, and putting on others of equal price.
In 1163, Thomas a Becket procured a canonization of the King, and in the
ceremony, the Abbot opened the coffin, found the body lying in rich vestments
of cloth of gold, having on his feet buskins of purple, and shoes of great
price; the body uncorrupted; removed the whole body from the stone reposi
tory to another of wood, some assisting at the head, others at the arms and
legs; they lifted it gently, and laid the corpse first on tapestry spread on the
floor, and then wrapping the same in silken cloaths of great value, they put it
into the wooden chest, with all those things that were found in the former,
except the gold ring which was on the King's finger, which the Abbot, out of
devotion, retained, and ordered it to be kept in the Treasury of the Abbey.
In 1226 K. Henry III. again removed the coffin to a Chapel built for the
purpose."

ILLUSTRATIONS, 6fl

Commissioner Pett. (See vol. I. 359; vol. II. 18.)
There is a monument for him in Deptford Church with a most pompous
inscription: "qui fuit patriae decus, patriae suae magnum munimentum ;" — •
he not only restored our naval affairs, but he invented that excellent and new
ornament of the Navy which we call Frigate, formidable to our enemies, to us
most useful and safe : he was the Noah of his age, by this invention, like the
Ark, having almost snatched our dominion of the Seas and our rights from
Shipwreck.

THE END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Printed by Nichols, Son, and BeDtley,
Red Lion Passage, Fleet Street, London.

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

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